MK^

ISLAND OF CUBA.

From the Missionary Herald, published in Boston, Mass. by the
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.
The following notices respecting the island of Cuba, are furnished by a
gentleman, who, for the benefit of his health, spent some part of the last
winter and spring on that island. They take their particular character from
the fact, that the writer spent most of his time travelling in the interior,
and was chiefly conversant with planters and rural scenery. The statements
may, it is thought, be relied on as correct; and they are as full, as time, and
circumstances, and a due regard to health, would permit them to be. — As
Cuba has not hitherto been well known to the people of this country, and as
it is increasing in interest, both to the merchant and to the Christian, the
belief is entertained, that many would be pleased to see such sketches as
the following. Should there be some erroneous statements of facts, which
is certainly very possible, the reader will easily find an apology, in the dif
ficulty of being well informed on all the subjects contained in this paper,
even after a much longer residence in any place, than the writer enjoyed
on that island.

Preliminary Remarks. -^-Cuba had the
honor of being discovered by Columbus, on
the *28th of October, 1492. It was supposed
to be a part of a great continent till 1508,
when it was circumnavigated by an officer
named Obando. In 1511, Don Jago Valas-
quez, with a foree of 300 men, conquered
and colonized it He first built St. Jago de
Cuba, on the south-eastern part of the island,
and afterwards the Havana, on the north
west. This latter city is now the capital.
The island extends from 73Q 50' to 85 tt 30'
\V. Longitude, making a difference of longi
tude of 11° 40/ or about 700 English miles-
The body of the island being, however, curv
ed, and not laying exactly east and west, a
line passing through the middle of it, from
one end to the other, would probably exceed
800 miles in length. The medium J>readth
of the island is estimated at 75 miles, so that
its superficial contents can fall little short of
60,000 square miles — an area larger than that
of England and Wales. Its greatest Latitude
is 23* 20', and its least 19° 4nr N. Of course
it falls just within the northern limit of the
torrid zone.
The Gulf Stream separates the island from
Florida on the north; and the Old Bahama
Channel divides it from the Great Bank of
•the same name* and numerous small islands,
on the north-east. Its eastern point ap
proaches near to the western extremity of
Hayti. Jamaica is not far from its most
southern limits Southwest is the Carib
bean Sea. And on the west and north- west
is the the Gulf of Mexico.
The position of this island is such, that,
owing to the influence of the Trade Winds
and of the Gulf Stream, the vast amount of

produce, which comes annually down the
Mississippi, and from all the shores of the
Mexican Gulf, passes of necessity almost
within sight of the Havana, before it can
come into the Atlantic. The commercial
importance of ihe island may, then, easily be
seen. It is great at present. But when, ia
the lapse of ages, the tide of population from.
the east and south shall meet in now unex
plored regions, and agriculture shall pour
forth its golden treasures from the Missis
sippi to the Kio del Norte and the Rocky
Mountains, then the importance of this
island must become immeasurably great.
appearance of the country. — The coast be
tween the Havana and Mantanzas — a distance
of about 70 miles — has a barren aspect, ex
hibiting spots of rich vegetation only here and
there. In some places it is covered with a
stunted brushwood; and almost uniformly ia
elevated enough to conceal from those, who
*ail along the shore, every thing beyond, ex
cept the summits of mountains in the inte
rior. But there are a few openings, through
which the delighted beholder looks up into
regions of perpetual verdure. I have reason
to suppose that this general description will
apply to the whole northern coast. The
southern is said to be less elevated, and more
fertile. Almost the whole surface of the interior
is pleasantly diversified with hills and vallies,
plains and mountains. The vallies are usu
ally narrow, and often deep; and the plains
level, and sometimes extensive. The moun
tains are generally abrupt, and never rise to
a great height. A ridge passes through the
middle of the island from E. to W.» though

Remarks on the Island of Cwba.

with some interruptions. Once in particular
it y ields, for the space of 60 miles, to a plain, '
which is said to stretch across the island Over
soi. if part of this vast piain I travelled. It
i^ level as the ocean, and possesses a rich soil:
bul only a small portion ol it is vet brought
under cultivation.
The finest scenery is found among the
mountains. Even where the improving hand
of man has never been applied; wheie the
wilderness, through which the savage roamed,
still remains; and only a narrow, winding
footpath guides the traveller; — the eye is con
tinually delighted with rich and romantic
views. The forest teems with vegetable life,
so as to be almost impervious. The tall, j
crowded trees are tied together by festoons
of numberless creepers, which ascend from
branch to branch, till they overlook the wood,
and rejoice in the clear sunshine.
Sometimes the traveller descends into a
deep ravine, and there, beneath the everlast
ing shade of lofty, woody declivities, finds the
rocky bed of some dried up torrent. Some
times he rises imperceptibly upon elevated
land, till he looks abroad over an area of large
extent, embracing plains, of various elevations
above the sea — abrupt cones, apparently of
volcunic origin — irregular, precipitous ridges —
and occasionally a part of the ocean, some
times he emerges suddenly from a beautiful wil
derness of vegetation into an open heath,
where the eye ranges unobstructed over
thousands of acres, and where nothing grows
but a dwarfish species of palm, and an almost
worthless grass. Here the rocks assume a
darker aspect, and seem to have changed
their nature.
But there is no scenery which the art and
industry of man cannot improve; and art and
industry have done much in many parts of
this island. In vain do I strive to give to one,
who has never visited a tropical climate, a
correct conception of the appearance of a
landscape there, when dressed up and adorned
by a tasteful agriculture. Many of the plants,
shrubs and trees, which in this country form
articles of choicest luxury, are there indigen
ous, and are among the common productions
of the soil. And these, when flourishing in
their native earth, and under the free rays ot
a sun duly proximate, exhibit a deeper and
livelier hue, and a greater luxuriance of fo
liage and growth. Even when standing insu
lated and alone, how lovely do many oi these
plants, shrubs and trees appear to a north
ern eye! But when brought together by hun
dreds, or thousands — when arranged by the
purest taste and most practised eye — when
spread abroad over an extended plain — when
loaded with fruit, useful, various, and abun
dant — and especially, when one is standing in
the midst of all this vast and beautiful gar
den, traversing avenues, neat, broad, straight,
crossing each other at frequent intervals and
at right angles:— then, I had almost said,
there is something before the mind, which
nature unaided never equals.
Still there are parts of the island, espe
cially large tracts of cleared, uneven country
devoted chiefly to pasturage, which recalled
New England to my mind. The palms, in
deed, which grow every where, with their

straight, naked trunks, and tufted tops
wav.ng high in the air, suggested nothing
analogous to themselves; but, these apart,
there was much in that pastoral scenery,
which resembled scenery rendered dear by
long acquaintance and a thousand pleasant
associations. On the whole, I must regard Cuba as a
magnificent island. The features of it are
by no means so majestic as are those of the
Mexican table lands: but almost every
wher« is to be seen splendid variety, and
inexhaustible richness.
Soil. — Enough has been said, to convey
the idea, that the soil of Cuba is immensely
productive. The mountains, indeed, have
usually a thin soil. The torrents ot the rainy
season have in man) places left litile but a
mass of lime-stone. There are, also, many
parts where there is hardly a sufficient depth
ot earth to preserve vigorous hie in plants,
duriug the dry season: and 1 have already
remarked, that, along the the mai gin of the
northern shore, the soil is not geneially pro
ductive. But after every abatement, it is
the fact, that a very large proportion of the
island — perhaps five parts out of six — is ex
cellent for tillage. 1 his is emphatically true of
the numerous, and often very extended
plains; upon which the more valuable plan
tations of sugar, coffee and tobacco, are chit-fly
situated. Ou these plains there is generally
a deep, warm, mellow soil. One would think
that they had been, in some former period,
covered with water, and that the water had
passed off through openings between the hills,
gradually or suddenly formed; and perhaps,
too, by subterranean passages to the sea, pro
duced by some great natural convulsion. There
are, at present, in almost eveiy plain, crev
ices in the rock that lies beneath the surface,
called sumideros, of unknown depth, and
leading no one knows whither, which absorb
vast quantities of water. The soil on these
plains is sometimes 4u feet deep, and is the
same in its nature quite down to its rocky
bed. More generally it is from three to four
feet in depth, and rests on limestone, or a
hardened body of clay.
The soil is of various kinds. The first
which I notice is the most common, at least
in the parts of the island which I visited. It
seems to be a mixture of clay and sand, color
ed by an oxide of iron. Its color generally
approaches near a scarlet red, and if wetted
it gives a deep stain. I have seen it used as
the base of a paint for the doors, windows and
wainscots of respectable houses. Bene«th the
surface, it has a degree of moisture and cohe
sion. This is the soil preferred for coffee.
A deep black mould is also very com
mon. Where there is much depth, the
growth upon it is rapid and luxuriant; and as
it retains moisture better than the red, it is
more esteemed for the. sugar cane. Ils color
in some places inclines to grey, but without
any apparent diminution ol its richness. The
relative positions of the red and black struck
me sometimes as a singular phenomenon.
Generally the dividing line is distinct, and
the transition from one to the other sudden.
Wheu crossing the mountains of Madruga,

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

8

called by sailors, to whom they are a land
mark, "the Iron > fills,'' 1 observed the line
of division running along the summit of the
ridge from west to east: on the north was the
red soil, and ou the south the black. I also
remarked the same on two or three other
ridges, of different heights, in other parts of
the island. Often veins of black traverse the
red, in various directions, across the plains.
Auother kind of soil is composed of mix
tures, in different degrees, of red and black,
and is there denominated mulatto soil. Lying
on a bed of clay — which forms another class
— it needs much draining; and wh<-n properly
attended to in this respect, it is highly pro
ductive. I saw the clay in considerable puri
ty, only beneath this species of earth.
There are ot er varieties; but they fell
not particularly within my observation, and
do not, 1 believe, extend over large tracts of
land. Cultivation. — The soil is capable of bring
ing lo pel fection a great variety of useful
fruits, of which a few only can be specified:
— Two and sometimes three crops of excel
lent maize are raised in a year. Without
trouble the finest rice is produced on the
black and mulatto earths, during the rains.
I was told that wheat and oats would flourish.
Plantawis, bananas, yams, and sweet potatoes,
grow in great abundance. Cabbages, lettoce,
carrots, turnips, various kinds of beans,
green peas, asparagus, and numerous other
esculent vegetables, may easily be furnished
for the table. A magnificent dessert may be
formed of the pine-apple, orange, guava, avo
cado-pear, mango, tamarind, grape, melon,
pomegranate, and other fruits too numerous
to mention; — some of which are indigenous
to the island, and all are adapted to its climate.
Cotton is a native of the island, and of a supe
rior quality; but il has not been found pro
ductive. The great objects of the planters,
however, are sugar, coffee and tobacco.
But a small portion of the island is yet
brought under cultivation. Perhaps little
more than a sixth part of it, is improved in
any way. The jurisdiction of Havana, which
extends over the western part of the island,
contains about 35,000 square miles, or
22,000,(100 of acres. From the "Guia de
Forasteros de hla de Cuba," for 1824, I
have ascertained the number of sugar, coffee
and tobacco plantations, and also the number
of small farms and herbaries, within this ju
risdiction. The average number of acres as
signed to each, in the following table, is con
jectured, but the number assumed is thought
to be large. The results go far to substantiate
the assertion made above. No. Ac. in ea. Acrs.
Sugar Plantations, 625 400 250,000
Coffee Plantations, 779 400 311,600
Tobacco Plantations, 1,601 200 320,000
Small Farms, (Sitios cle labor,) 9,821 40 392,840
Hci-baiies, 183 10 1,830
Land under cultivation, 1,276,270
To this add,
Grazing Estates, 1-762 1,000' 1,762.000
Pastures, (Potreros,) 1,193 300 j^fOl
All tliat is improved, 3,396,170

There seem, therefore, to be at least
18,000,000 of acres of unimproved land within
the jurisdiction of Havana. The jurisdic
tion of St. Jago de Cuba, which includes the
eastern part oi the island, contains not less
than 16,01)0,000 of acres, of which probably
a twentieth part only is improved. Thirty-
three millions of acres on this island are then
unimproved! And yet more than 25,000,000
of acres must be regarded as arable land;
much of it exceedingly rich; and all lying, as
1 shall by and bye remark more fully, in one
of the finest of climates.
Sugar, ooffee and lobacco being the chief
productions, and forming the principal ex
ports of the island, [ may be expected to de
scribe briefly the mode of their cultivation.
Respecting the last, however, 1 shall say noth
ing, as it fell only partially within my notice,
being raised chiefly in the parts of the island
west and south-west of the Havana, where 1
did not find it convenient to go. I simply
remark, that the superior quality of the Ha
vana tobacco is, by the inhabitants, attri
buted to the nature of the soil; and that the
tobacco produced in different districts of the
island, is thought to possess, very unequal
excellence. Sugar Plantations. — The cane is a jointed
reed, terminating' in blades, or leaves, whose
edges are finely serrated. When ripe, its
color inclines lo yellow. It is filled with a
soft, pithy substance, abounding in juice,
which, coming from the fresh cane, is verv
delicious. The distance between the joints
of the cane varies from two to five inches;
and its average diameter is about three-fourths
of an inch. The common height of the cane
is from five to seven feet.
It is cultivated by laying short pieces —
usually the tops — horizontally in holes or
trenches, and covering them with earth about
two inches deep. In a few days the young
sprouts appear, and, as they grow, earth is
gradually drawn around them. Precisely the
same attention is needed by the cane, that
is given to Indian corn. The season for
planting is the autumnal months, and the cane
is ripe for the mill in about a year and a quar
ter. A single planting answers for several
years. So much nutriment is contained in the juice
of the cane, and so freely is it drank during
the harvest, that although the poor slave
then works very hard — often I fear much too
hard — at no time of the year does he look so
well, or enjoy better health.
The ripest cane is of course cut first, but
only enough from day to day to supply the
demand. The mill, in which it is ground,
consists of three upright, iron-plated cylin
ders, between 30 and 40 inches in length, and
from 20 to 25 in diameter. The power is
applied to the middle cylinder, which moves
the other two. . A slave, standing in front,
thrusts the cane between the middle cylinder
and the one at the right; and another slave,
on the other side, sends it back between the
middle cylinder and the one at the left, by
which time the juice is pretly thoroughly
expressed. This is conveyed into the boiling
house, along a wooden gutter lined with lead,
where il is received into what is termed the

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

darifier. Here the temperature of the li
quor is raised nearly, but not quite, to boiling
heat; a small quantity of quicklime is thrown
in, which is supposed to take up some veget
able acids, that prevent the granulation of the
sugar; and the impurities, rising to the sur
face, are skimmed off*. The juice is then re
moved to a boiler, and, as the evaporation
proceeds, through a series of boilers, until it
acquires the consistency of syrup.
If muscovado, or the common brown sugar,
is to be made, this syrup is then put into
large, shallow vessels, and is allowed to cool
and granulate undisturbed; when it is placed
in hogsheads, the bottoms of which are per
forated with holes. Through these the mo
lasses passes into a channel, that conveys it to
a reservoir; and from thence it often goes to
a distillery, and is converted into rum. But
I saw only one plantation, where muscovado
sugar was made in considerable quantities.
The general custom in Cuba, is to carry the
process of refining further than this.
In the first place, the syrup is poured into a
trough, and is beaten while it is cooling. It is
then put into conical earthen vessels, contain
ing as much as a negro can carry, and hav
ing both ends open. That the molasses may
be thoroughly carried off, these vessels are
placed upon a frame, with their apex down
ward, and moist clay is spread over the top
of the sugar. The water from the clay, filtering
through the sugar, dilutes the molasses, and
carries it through the open apex, into a chan
nel, formed like an inverted roof of a house,
which transmits the whole lo a reservoir.
Sugar, thus purified, is, for an obvious reason,
denominated clayed sugar. It is the com
mon white sugar.
In general a gallon of juice will produce a
pound of sugar; and an acre of cane will furnish
from fifteen hundred weight to a ton; some
times much more. The fields of cane, which
fell under my observation, consist of from
2(J0 to 400 acres each.
Coffee Plantations. — The coffee tree has
Only a single stem, which rises perpendicular
ly, and is we-ll filled with branches from within
a foot of the ground upwards. In order that
the fruit may be gathered wilh facility, the
tree is not suffered to grow more than five
feet and a half high. Its general form is con
ical. A coffee-field is laid out with great at
tention to order and beauty. A piece of
level ground is chosen, which usually has a
. red soil, and is generally free from stones.
A square, or parallelogram is then marked
out, containing from J00 to 550 acres, to be
enclosed in a hedge of limes, pinon, or some
other suitable material. The lime hedge is
very beautiful, being from four to six feet
thick, and having its top, by frequent trim
ming, a perfect level. The pinon is not so
beautiful; but it takes less room, requires less
attention, makes as good a fence, and is more
durable. Having defined the boundaries of the estate,
the principal avenues through it are next
laid out; and they are generally two, three,
or four rods wide, straight, and intersecting
each other at light angles. In the finished

estates, these are usually ornamented an'<I
shaded, on each side, by rows of the orange,
citron, mango, almond, avocado, and palm
trees, &c At the termination of one of
these, and situated perhaps on elevated
ground, is the house of the planter. Smaller
avenues are next made, parallel with the
others. All these avenues are preserved fi ue
from weeds, and are kept smooth and neat.
Thus the whole ground is thrown into
squares, which are to be filled with coffee
plants. These, having previously grown to
the height of one or two feet, from seeds
sown under the shade of some grove, are care
fully transplanted, and are arranged in rows
parallel with the avenues, and nearly six feet
apart- A square contains 10, 20, or SO thou
sand trees. Uy the third year from this lime,
they begin to remunerate the planter; and at
the end of six or seven years, may be regarded
as mature. When a tree dies, a new one
takes its place; but the original plantation is
expected lo live about 15 years. — Among the
coffre, especially when it is new, the plantain
is suffered to grow, for the purpose of giving
bread to the negroes. Here and there, sdso,
the orange and citron trees lift their golden
fruit above the surface; and far above all the
rest, the privileged palm, in every direction,
waves. its beautiful summit.
Such plantations are great, splendid gar
dens, and are justly regarded by the inhabi
tants as the glory of then* island.
The plantations that are finished, contain
from 100,000 to 400,000 trees in each, and
are wrought by from 40 to 4 »0 negroes; and
in proportion to the gross income, the expense
of conducting them is said to be considerably
less, than that of the sugar estates. Hence
their number is more rapidly augmenting.
The trees generally blossom in February,
and in the early part of May, and sometimes
oftener; but the blossom, on which most
dependence is placed, is the one in May.
Then a vast level surface, white as the drifted
snow, is presented to the beholder; but va
ried and enlivened by the taller trees just
mentioned. The harvest commences in
September, and ends in February or March.
If within this time the average of half a pound
of cofiee is gathered from each tree, the har
vest is esteemed good.
When the berries acquire a dark red color,
they are considered ripe for gathering, and
the negroes, properly equipped, are sent into
the field. An industrious negro will gather
five bushels in a day; and a bushel in the
pulp, fresh from the tree, is expected to yield
at least 10 pounds of good coffue. It is then
spread upon exienshe dryers made of stone
and mortar. This process requ-res nearly a
month. The husk, or shell is then separated
from the seed, in a mill, which exactly re
sembles the mills in this country, where
apples are ground in a circular trough, by a
huge, rolling stone — excepting that the roller
for the coffee is wood, though of considerable
weight. In a few cases, a machine of a very
different construction is used; but it need not
be described.
The pulp being removed, the whole is ex
posed to the action of a fan, and then of a
sieve; after which the female slaves carefully

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

pick out the defective kernels. From 12
to 15 hundred pounds may thus be cleaned
in a day. — In the opinion of the planters, the
flavor of coffee is materially improved by age.
That which is four or five years old is pre
ferred. Hitherto the planters have paid little at
tention to the manuring of their lands, though
the subject receives increasing regard. Al
most the only method has been, to spread
over the surface of the ground the decayed
leaves and stems of the sugar cane, and other
vegetables. Some idea may be obtained respecting the
produce of the bland, from an account of the
exports of sugar and coffee, from the Hava
na and Matanzas, during the year 1 833*
Sugar*— From Havana; 300,312 boxes,
containing about lbs. 120,000,000
From Matanzas; 80,000 boxes, 32,000,000

Exports of sugar, lbs, 152,000,000 !
Coffee.— From Havana; 895,924 av-
robas, lbs. 23,294,024
From Matvnzas, 3,400,000
Exports of coffee, lbs. 26,694,024
Estimated value of the sugar, at £25
per box, £9,508,800
Estimated value of the coffee, at 15c.
per lb. 4,004,103
Value of the above exports, Jgl3,513,903 ,I
I have in my possession no estimate of the ,
produce shipped from the other ports in the '
island. Excepting St. Jago de Cuba, it can- j
not, I suppose, be 10 any considerable amount, j
The produce of the interior is sometimes
transported to the coast by mules, and by
small native horses, which follow each other
in what is, with us, called "Indian file " But
more generally strong carts are used, the
wheels of which have a large diameter. The
oxen are guided by a small rope, passing
through the cartilage which divides the nos
trils. If there is more than one yoke, the
forward oxen are led by a negro boy. The
yoke is placed just behind the horns, to which
it is strongly bound, and the whole weight is
drawn by the head — it is thought, with much
advantage. In a few instances, the land carriage is
shortened by rivers. The only navigable
river, however, that came within my observa
tion, was the Canimar, which runs into the
Bay of Matanzas. A bar at its mouth per
mits the entrance of hoats only; but within
the bar, and for eight miles, (when all naviga
tion suddenly ends,) there is depth enough
for vessels of any burthen. Its width is about
CO yards; and its banks generally rise abrupt
ly to the height of one or two hundred feet,
Through the kindness of a friend, I sailed up
this river in April: and when I had observ
ed its steep, elevated banks; their regular
correspondencies to each other; the great
depth of water; the absence of a current, that
could wear out a channel; and the sudden
ending of navigation, and, I may say, of the
river itself; — I could not but indulge the con
jecture, that, in some ancient convulsion, the

solid ground had been driven asunder, and
the neighboring ocean had rushed in at the
opening. — Much business is done at the head
of the river, which is called tins Embarcadero,
to which place the growing plantations, for 30
miles round, send their productions, and from
whence not less than 1,500,000 pounds of
coffee, and 8,000,000 pounds of sugar are
annually sent to Matanzas.
Animala) &c. — There are no dangerous
wild animals on the island. The wild dogs,
descended from the bloodhounds originally
imported to hunt down the natives, are the
most mischievous. They are considerably
numerous. The race of tame animals is various, and
generally excellent. There are said to
be no larger, stronger, or more docile oxen
in the world. 1 have seen few such in the
United States. The native horses are gener
ally small, but vigorous, hardy, swift, surefoot
ed, and well broken. Their common gait ia
an agreeable pace, or amble. Mules are nu
merous, and, though a diminutive breed, have
remarkable strength, and endure hard labor,
and cruel abuse from the negroes, with much
patience. Cows give less milk than is com
mon in this country, but the quality of it is
i very good. Goats, sheep, and swine are easily
i raised. There are no reptiles on the island, the
'. bite of which is fatal. The hornet, scorpion,
and centipede are considered the worst, Liz-
i zards are abundant, but harmless.
The mountain-crabs come annually from
I the mountains, in large armies, to deposit
! their young in the sea, and then return. They
, are followed by the young ones, as soon as
': they have strength for the journey. Another
kind dwells in holes dug along the sea-shore.
A species of ant, called viva-agua, does
much mischief to the coffwe, by depriving the
trees of their leaves. These insects make
deep subterranean excavations. A short ride
sometimes carries, the traveller past hundreds
of little tumuli on the plains, formed by the
earth which they have thrown up. A small
insect, called by the French a chigret is very
troublesome to the feet of those, who are em
ployed in cleaning the coffee. It makes a
lodgment beneath the skin, where it forms a
small bag, and, if not soon removed, deposits
its eggs. But the most interesting specimen
of the insect tribe, is the cucullat a curious
fire-fly, which, as the rainy season approaches,
kindles a thousand brilliant little fires in the
evening air. It has two strong lights on each
side of the upper part of the head, and one
beneath the abdomen; and when fully grown,
is about three-fourths of an inch in length.
Two or three of these will enable one to read
in the darkest night.
The most noted birds, are the parrot, paro
quet, and quail.
The markets have a good supply of fish.
Excellent turtles are found in the shallow
waters. Turtle-soup is the dish for Friday,
when no good Catholic eats meat, without a
dispensation. But such dispensations, I should
judge, must be common.
Climate. — The climate of Cuba is not well
understood abroad. From the frequent mor
tality among strangers at the Havana, the

Remarks on the isiana oj ^uoa.

whole island has been supposed unhealthy.
But this is far from being correct.
The Havana, indeed, is never absolutely a
safe place for strangers, without many pre
cautious on their part; and sometimes no pre
cautions will avail. While I was on the island,
however, which was from early in February
till sometime in A3 ay, the city was remarkably
healthy. So it had been for the two months
previous to my arrival. I was assured, on
respectable authority, that but one case of
death happened among foreigners in Decern
ber and January, although their number in
the city and hatbor must have exceeded
4,000. But this was a rare phenomenon, and
might be chiefly owing to the unusual coolness
of the season.
Natives of the Havana are not, so far as I
could learn, liable to the yellow-fever, provid
ed they are, at no time, long absent from the
city. But I am not surprised that strangers
suffer. No tide gives motion to the waters
of the harbor. The elevated land, also, rising
on the eastern side of the harbor, and crown
ed with fortifications, breaks the current of
the trade-winds. The city, moreover, stands
on a low plain, and is surrounded by a wall
of considerable height, which obstructs the
circulation of air. Its streets, too, are narrow,
badly paved, generally muddy or dusty, and not
always free from impurities; while, during the
rainy season, a vertical sun almost daily pours
intense heat upon a thousand little pools,
which are formed in them. In addition to
this, the floors of the houses, being usually
of hardened earth, cannot fail to give rise to
chilling exhalations What wonder if disease of
ten sends the stranger into th** grave, when, on
his arrival, he is assailed at once by malaria
from all these sources!
But other causes, no doubt, have been ac
tive in multiplying instances of mortality.
The great body of victims to the fever, are
seamen. They have experienced, perhaps, a
sudden change of climate from coolness to
great heat, and the vital powers act, conse
quently, with diminished energy. The mas
ters and supercargoes are then exposed to
burning sunbeams on the mole, and are ex
hausted by business, and vexed by disappoint
ments md delays Perhaps their diet is ir
regular; their digestion impeded; their pers
piration obstructed: and then, vexation of
mind and exhaustion of body, amidst nox
ious effluvia, (if such there are,) will suffice,
one would think, to occasion, in frequent in
stances, a fatal catastrophe. — The common
sailors reside on board their vessels; are often
exposed, in the season of fever, to both
sun and rain; have little regard to the kind,
or quantity of their food; make an excessive
use of liquids; expose themselves to be cooled
on deck by the breezes and dews of evening;
and, when wearied, not seldom fall asleep
where they are chilled by a cold stream of the
midnight air — The enlargement of the mole,
¦within a few years, by facilitating the progress
of business, and lessening the amount of ex
posure, has, it is said, diminished materially
the mortality among seamen.
Without the walls of the Havana, where
there is a numerous population, and where
circumstances are more favorable, the danger

is said to be much less, than in the city. It is
thought to be less, also, at Matanzas.
1 could not find that the internal parts of
the island are liable, in any extent won by of
notice, to the yellow -fever. If strangers
avoid the midday son, the chilling damps of
the night, exposure to rain, and intemperate
eating and drinking, I think they might dwell
there, through the year, as secure from sudden,
fatal disease, as in New England — and these
precautions are easily taken.
The more common diseases among the in
habitants, are dysentery, intermittent fevers,
eomplaints of the liver, and ophthalmia Dys
enteries sometimes occasion grtat mortality,
especially among the slaves. (ntermittents
are common lo the low grounds. The liver
complaint is a frequent evil : and cases of par
tial blindness, I was assured, not seldom occur.
Children have a healthful appearance, but
need considerable care The general manner
of living, however, being simple, health is a
blessing greatly prevalent Uld age is often
to be seen. Hypochondriacs are rare.
The yellow-fever is not regarded by the
natives as at all eontagious ; but the consump
tion (1 suppose because it is rare,) is thought
to be so: and when a person dies of that dis
ease, the precautionary measures, which are
taken, are sometimes very many.
Having broken my thermometer, and being
unable to replace it at the Havana, I despaired
of coming to a precise knowledge of the tem
perature of the climate. But just before my
departure, a gentleman of great accuracy,
who had come to the island for the same reason
with myself, was so kind as to transcribe for
me a thermometrical journal, which he had
kept from December to March last inclusive.
The gentleman resided, during that time,
about 30 miles south of Matanzas, on ground,
which, as to its elevation and surrounding
country, would render the temperature there,
a fair specimen of the temperature in the in
terior generally.
The extremes of Fahrenheit's thermometer,
in these months, were as follows:

At sunrise.
At 2 o'clock, P. M.
At 9 P. M.
General l'ange,

from 40° to 72°
65« " 87°
47° " 78»
55° " 82°

The mean temperature, at each of these
times of day, withthe mean temperature of
each month, and of the four months, is given
in the next table.
Sunrise. 2 o'clock. 9 P, M. The month,
December, 70° 70 ° 66° 72p
January, 61° 8C 64° 68°
February, 62° 77° 68° 69°
March, 64° 80° 71" 72°
Mean temperature of the four months, 70°
When the thermometer was depressed be
low 50°, it was owing to what is termed a
Norther; that is, a northerly wind, which is
generally attended with showers. At the
Havana, in February, I found these northers
uncomfortably cool. Humboldt somewhere
says, that, during these winds, the thermome
ter at the Havana has been seen to fall as low
as 32°, or to the freezing point, only 262 feet
above the level of the ocean— The mean

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

beat of the summer months, according to the
representations of the inhabitants, cannot
very much exceed "5a. The atmosphere is
tempered by the rains.
Though the four months above mentioned
were a part of the dry season, there were a
few showers in each of them. In April these
showers became more frequent, and still more
so in May. — The rainy season commences in
June, and continues till November. The
morning is usually fair; but about noon dark
clouds arise, the lightnings play, the thunder
is frequent, loud and terrific, and the waters
come down in torrents. Now vegetation ad
vances with wonderful rapidity, and nature
puts on her richest attire. But the deep
loam in the roads, saturated with water, yields
to pressure, and is almost impassable.
A considerable number of invalids from the
United States resort to this island, in the win
ter. Those, who go before their constitutions
are broken down, and who attend properly to
their diet and exercise, usually derive benefit.
But some go to the island when it is too late
to find health any where; and others derive
no benefit from the change, because they
suppose that the climate alone will do every
thing, and act accordingly. In no country can it
be easier to adhere to a mild and salutary
regimen, than it is in Cuba.
No invalids should proceed to the West In
dies, unless acquainted there, without good
letters to some merchants or planters. With
such letters, they will he hospitably and kind
ly entertained; for no peopla are more hos
pitable and kind than the merchants and plan
ters of that island. Of this I had abundant
experience A passport will of course be pro
cured before leaving this country, which must
be endorsed, according tn the laws of Cuba,
by some Spanish Consul residing in the Uni
ted Slates.
Population — The population of the island
is estimated, in the "Stranger's Guide" before
mentioned, to have been, in the year 1819, as
follows:

Freemen. — Whites,
People of color,
Slaves.

290.020 .„,.,,
115,691 5 405'712 225,268

Total, 630,980
Amount of the colored population, 340,959
Excess of colored population above
the white, - - 50,938
That is; in every 100 inhabitants, 46 are
whites, 18 are free colored people, and 36 are
slaves According to Humboldt, there were, in
1804,234,000 whites, 90,000 free people of
color, and 108,00' slaves; or, in every 100 in
habitants, 54 whites, 21 free people of color,
and 25 slaves.
The more obvious classification of the inhabi
tants is into foreigners, (consisting chiefly of
emigrants from theTJnited Slates, Great Brit
ain, Germany and France,) European Span
iards, Creoles, free people of color, and slaves.
The Bettlementof/bra^nersupon the island
is favored by the present Governor-General of
Cuba, and by the Governor of Matanzas, whose
characters, for enlightened views and strict
integrity, are deservedly held in high estima

tion. Many of the principal mercantile houses
are composed of foreigners, and not a few
plantations are owned and conducted by them.
The European Spaniards are numerous,
and possess great influence; but whether they
have a monopoly of offices and privileges, as
was formerly the case in the Spanish provin
ces of South America, I am not well informed.
The Creoles are the native white popula
tion; and although excelled, as a body, by their
European brethren, in intellectual acquire*
ments, they are not excelled by them in orig.
inal capacity. They possess great quickness
and shrewdness of perception.
The population ot free colored people has
risen from the humanity of the Spanish law.
Every slave has aright to his freedom, when
he pays his master a sum of money equal to
his value. The master caanot demand more
than he gave for the slave, unless he has
taught him a trade. Slaves may, also, pur
chase a purt of their time, in which case they
may soon obtain money to redeem the whole.
They general!) have certain privileges. Each
one is allowed a small piece of ground for
his own use; and to some extent they are
permitted to raise hogs and poultry, which
they sell to their masters. The number of.
the free colored people, twenty years ago,
was 90,000. During the fifteen subsequent
years it augmented, as we have seen, to about
115,000; which is no more than might be ex
pected from the natural increase.
The slaves are thought to be treated better
on this island, than on most of the other West
India islands. In general, their usage is bet
ter than I had supposed Several enlighten
ed planters confessed, however, that slavery is
an evil not confined to the slave, since it really
diminishes the value of the island. "Were
there no slaves," said they, "we could procure
more efficient labor from the white popula
tion." Bul I must be allowed to question,
whether the Spanish emancipation law, as it.
no-iii stands, confers any advantage either up
on the slave, or his master. It has set loose
from restraint more than 100,000 blacks, to.
dwell in the island, with no love for the whites,
without education, without moral principle,.
without good habits, and destitute of charac
ter. Make but another law, providing effect
ually for the Christian instruction of the slave;
then will the law, which provides for his lib
erty, have an excellent effect; especially since
it gains its object by a gradual operation,
through the industry and frugality of the slave.
When slaves become free, it might not be
amiss to send them to Hayti, where their con
dition will be improved, anti where they can
do less harm, than if they remained in Cuba.
. The number of slaves imported from Africa,
since 1786, is as follows:

From 1786 to 1800
From 1800 " 18t5
From 1815 " 1821

60,473 84,517
99,939
Total, 244,929

In 1821 the further importation of slaves
was prohibited by the Spanish government;
though, since that time, at least 5,000 are sup
posed to have been smuggled into the island
every year.

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

Chief Places. — I visited the Havana, Ma
tanzas, nnd Madruga. My descriptions will
be cotifined to these places, and must be very
general. The Havana is to be ranked with the prin
cipal cities of our hemisphere, as well on ac
count of its population, as its commerce. The
number of whites residing within the walls of
the city is about 44,00(1; and the suburbs and
dependencies of the city, contain about 40, UOO
more. It stands on a plain, west of one of
the most beautiful of harbors, anti its walls,
which enclose about a square mile of ground,
are between 20 and 30 feet high- Cannon
are mounted at suitable distances on the walls,
and, in case of an attack from the Und, there
is a wide ditch without, that can be filled with
water from the canal which supplies the city.
Perhaps the entrance to few ports, if any,
in the world, is more strongly fortified, than
the port of the Havana. Although there is
an admirable bay of deep water within, its
mouth is so-narrow, that but one ship can en
ter at a time. Proceeding into this bay, a
ship first passes a lofty castle, called the JYlor-
ro, situated at the extreme point of land on
the left. A light-house rises from a corner of
this fortification. From the Morro, for nearly
half-a-mile up the harbor, the elevated bank
is crowned with immense batteries, denomi
nated the Cabanas, erected, it is said, at an
expense of more than 30,000,000 of dollars. Un
the opposite side, is another strong fort, called
the Punta, connected with the Avails of the
city; and within th*.* walls is the citadel.
These most expensive fortifications arose
from a belief, very properly entertained by
Spain, that the dominion ol Cuba was essen
tial to the preservation of Mexico, which pos
sesses no good harbor on its eastern shore.
The city is divided into solid squares, and
its streets, though narrow, are straight, and
intersect each other at right angles. The
houses are quadrangular, having a court in
the middle. All the rooms have a direct com
munication with each other, and also open in
to this court. Most of the houses have two
stories. The lower one is commonly used for
a ware- house, shops, &c. The materials for
building are small, irregular fragments of
stone, which are united by a strong cement,
and the wall is then plastered and white-wash
ed. The roofs are tiled.
Many of the inhabitants possess vast wealth,
and have costly habitations. There are. also,
rich and spacious monasteries, convents, and
churches. The convents of St. Domingo and
St. Franciseo were the only institutions of
the kind, which I visited. Each of them(oc-
cupies an entire square, having an open court
in the middle, which is surrounded hv piazzas
in the first and second stories. The walla
facing the courts, are covered with historical
paintings, representing transactions in the
lives of their pdtron saints. Both the buildings
and paintings are now going to decay. The
convent of St. Francisco had been converted
into barracks for soldiers, and had suffered
wanton abuse. This is one of the 12 con
vents, that were suppressed during the reign
of the Constitution.
But the Cathedral interested me more than
any other edifice. It is a massive, Gothic

structure; and for magnitude and taste, is In
comparably superior to the other places of
worship. Eveu a Protestant might survey its
walls, and pillars, and even ils altar, and find
little to offend. There is no tinsel, no parade.
Every where is simplicity. The paintings
seem to have been placed where they are,
rather by the artist, than by the divine; and
such are the subjects of them, and such their
execution, disposition, and moral effect, that,
as they seemed not to be objects of worship,
] should be sorry to have them removed.
The images are few, consisting only of cruci
fixes, which are so small that they must be
near, in order to be seen. — The churches in
general, however, abound with images, large
as life, and gaudily decorated.
The Cathedral is the more interesting, as
it contains the ashes of Columbus, which were
brought to the Havana in 1796. They are
deposited in the wall, on the right side of the
altar; and the urn is concealed by a marble
slab, on which is sculptured, in high relief, a
front view of the memorable man.
Beyond the walls is the Paseof or Promo-
nade, to which the citizens resort morning
and evening, for exercise and air. It is a
broad avenue for carriages, about a mile in
length, with shaded walks on each side; and
was designed for a beautiful place. But it
was left unfinished, and now suffers for want
of repairs
Contiguous to this, is the Botanical Garden,
which, mo: e strikingly than the Paseo, exhib
its an elegant plan, left but imperfectly exe
cuted. The Garden was formed under the
patronage of the "Royal Patriotic Society of
the Havana," an institution, which has been of
much service to the island.
A greater curiosity is the country-seat of
the Bishop of Havana, which is about three
miles from the gates of the city; and, for
beauty of situation, elegance of design, and
perfection of order, is perhaps equalled by no
one of the country-seats around the metropo
lis of New England. But this is the only thing
of the kind near the Havana. After quitting
the suburbs, though there are many fine sites,
nothing is beheld, for several miles, hut the
thatched cottages of a few peasantry. Wheth
er the' reason assigned for this, by a very in
telligent citizen of the Havana, be well found
ed, namely, — the insecurity of a well furnish
ed, but insulated residence, so near the city, —
I am not competent to decide. The church
is the Bishop's heir at law; but the apprehen
sion of sacrilege, ia said not always to defend
this estate from encroachments.
JWatanzas. The import of this name is
slaughter. Tradition reports it to haye been
given to the place, on account of a bloody
battle with the natives, which happened there.
It is not material to inquire whether this be
true. The city, as to iu principal growth, is
modern. The amount of its white population
is 8,400. It is situated at the bottom of a bay,
which penetrates several miles into the land;
and, for the most part, stands on more elevated ,.
ground than the Havana. It has also cleaner
streets than that city. A large proportion of
its houses consist of a single story, and perhaps
two thirds of them are thatched: but the thatch
ed houses do not border on the harbor. Much

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

American society is always found in this place,
and our language is understood, in various de
grees, by many of the inhabitants. The city has
but one ohurch, and that is a plain building,
furnished in the plainest style. The mercan
tile importance of Matanzas is considerable at
present, and is annually increasing.
Aladruga. This is a noted watering-place,
30 miles from Matanzas, and 45 from the
Havana. It is situated on the south side of the
hills, or mountains, which bear the same name.
There are about 500 respectable houses in
the place, and during April and May the
crowd of persons in pursuit of health and
pleasure, is very great. It is a singular fact,
that there is no hotel in the place. Every
man owns a house, or else hires one, or a part
of one, for the season. The church is a very
decent building, much superior to the usual
style of churches in the interior.
The ground is uneven, and on three sides
is barren. Ou the south it is fertile, descend
ing beautifully towards the plains of San Luis.
I was shewn three mineral springs, called
the Paila, Tigre, and Castilla. At each
there was a hath. The Paila is most celebra
ted. It smells and tastes strongly of sulphu
retted-hydrogen gas, and deposits sulphur.
The Tigre has less of these indications, and
the Castilla none. The waters are transpar
ent, and Sow not in great abundance. Al
though an oxide of iron is very observable in
the neighboring soil and rocks, I perceived no
traces of iron in either of the springs. The wa
ters have been analyzed, but I could not learn
the results. I desired to ascertain the temper
ature, but there was no thermometer to
be obtained. Invalids have found these waters
beneficial in cutaneous diseases, and in cases
of debility.
The Padre of Madruga gratified me — as
did, also, an older priest at Matanzas — by his
kindness of disposition, amiable manners, the
humble piety which he seemed to possess, and
the excellent character which he sustained.
He called at my lodgings, while I was out, and
before my letter to hi m had been delivered, and
inquired of my friends, if I was a Physician.
They answered, that I was not, but an Ecclesi
astic. "Of what denomination?" said he.
They answered, "a Presbyterian." The re
ply of the priest was characteristic. "It is no
matter; if he be an enlightened man, he will
not fail to be liberal."
Commerce. — Enough has been said with
respect to the amount of exportations. The
articles exported, besides sugar, coffee and
tobacco, are chiefly these, — molasses, honey,
wax, hides, aguardiente de cana, segars, and
tobacco. In exchange for these, they receive
linen, cotton and silk goods, woolens, earthen
and glass wares, hard wares, naval stores, lum
ber, groceries, furniture, stationary, etc. The
number of mercantile vessels, which entered
the port of Havana, during the last year, was
as follows:

From the United States, 708
From Spain, 274
From England, 96
From Germany, 34

From Holland, 19
From France, 18
From Denmark, 15
From Sweden, 4
Total, 1168

In addition to these, 149 vessels of war en
tered that port during the same time. — At
Matanzas on the 7th of February last, there
were, according to a printed circular of a re
spectable mercantile house, 5 ships, S29 brigs,
and 10 schooners, consisting of 6,800 tons bur
then, all from the United States.'
Intercourse betiveen different parts of the
island.— The law requires every man, going
from one part of the island to another, to ob
tain a passport, which, however, costs nothing.
Between the Havana and Matanzas, 1 re
marked that there was considerable inter
course. But between these places and Santi
ago de Cuba, I should think there was com
paratively little.
The roads are good, or bad, according to
the nature of the ground, and the season ofthe
year. Art and labor have done very little for
them. They originated from paths through
the wilderness, and have been brought into
their present state simply by long use. On
tile plains, they are good in the dry season,
but almost impassable during the rains. Over
the high lands, they are often sufficiently
rough. The carriage in common use, is called a
volante. It has a general resemblance to our
chaise, or gig, and is drawn in the same man
ner. The diameter of the wheels is nearly
six feet. The body hangs lower than the
centre of the wheel, divides its weight about
equally between the wheels and the animal,
and does not rest upon springs. The shafts
are long. These carriages are rarely upset,
and are the easiest I ever rode in. The dri
ver sits upon the animal. Sometimes two
horses, or mules, are attached, and, when the
case demands it, three; but all of them are
abreast. The baggage is carried in a seron,
or large frail, by a negro on horseback. The
most frequent mode of travelling, is on the
line ambling horses of the country.
Of late, a steam-boat has passed every week
between the Havana and Matanzas. The
cost of a passage is 12 dollars. Another boat
is contemplated between Matanzas and the
Embarcadero at the head of the Canimar
River, for the better conveyance of produce.
There are no houses on the road, corres
ponding with our inns, or hotels. The trav
eller makes his calculations to lodge with
planters on the way. But, afterpassiug Villa
Clara, (about 160 miles E. of Matanzas,) he
must forego, in great measure, this privilege.
At the Havana and Matanzas there are
boarding-houses, at which the expense for
food and lodging is from two dollars to two
and a half per day.
The fashion of the country is to travel arm
ed. No countryman would ride a league
without his machete, or long sword. This
must be owing less to fear, than to ancient
custom, from which a Spaniard is not apt to
depart. The higher classes and foreigners
arm themselves with pistols: and it is prudent
for all travellers not to be without at least a
pair of holsters.
Attention to Literature, &c— As I com
menced with the resolution of giving the re
sults of my personal inquiries only, I shall be
brief under this head-

10

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

It is not the fault, but the misfortune, of the
inhabitants, that education among them is in
a low condition. Two or three years since,
they established schools by law in all the prin
cipal villages, and ordained that every person,
who, after certain years, could not read and
write, should be deprived of the privileges of
citizens. But the overthrow of the Constitu
tion was fatal to all such attempts. A large
proportionjofthe Creoles in the interior were
representtaito me as unable to read. Female
education is specially neglected. The reading
population of the island cannot therefore be
great. Hence the price of books is nearly
400 per cent, greater there, than it is in the
United States; though I found several well
furnished bookseller's shops in the Havana. In
that city, also, two small daily papers are pub
lished. In Matanzas there is one.
A college, connected with the Cathedral,
has, under the auspices of the Bishop of Ha
vana, become a valuable institution; — far more
valuable, 1 apprehend, than the "Most Illus
trious Royal and Poutifical University," in
the convent of St. Domingo. The College
was instituted in 1774, and the University in
1728. 1 am informed that the principal of
the former, Don Justo Maria Velez, trav
elled in this country not long since. A school
for drawing and painting, and, also, lectures
on political economy, were both established,
by the Royal Patriotic Society, in 1818. Vac
cine Committees were, moreover, instituted
by the same society in 1804, whose duty it is
to preserve and distribute the virus. The
Society itself was formed in 1793.
There are about 200 lawyers in the Havana,
and nearly 300 physicians. This latter num
ber does not include the barbers, whose of
ficial duty it is, nevertheless, to bleed and pull
teeth. Of supernumerary priests, there did
not appear to be many. I have reason to be
lieve, that in each of these professions are
learned men.
Manners, Customs, and General Charac
ter. — The inhabitants of Cuba are generally
good-looking, cheerful and polite. Even the
common class have scarcely any thing that is
coarse and vulgar. Hospitality is among their
cardinal virtues. If they have but a little,
they will offer you a part of that. They dis
cover a great fondness for the amusements of
cards, dancing, cock-fighting, and the theatre.
The women shew much kindness to sick
strangers. Children are respectful and attentive, and
parents are indulgent. With one custom I
was rauch pleased. At night, before retiring
to rest, the child kisses the hand of the father,
apd receives from him a blessing in these
words,— Deus te haga buen santo, "God
make thee a good saint" In one instance 1
saw children, who seemed to be tenderly be
loved, kiss their father's hand, as they rose
from the dining table. Females go into soci
ety at an early age: indeed their mothers sel
dom go any where without them. They also
marry young. I saw one married lady of only
13 years of age, and her case was not spoken
of as singular. Children are always named
after some one in the calendar of saints. My
name not happening to be there, a Spanistt

friend, on giving me a letter of introduction
to a Catholic gentleman, kindly provided ine
with another that was more orthodox, in order
to ensure me a more welcome reception.
I understood that the death of young chil
dren was regarded rather as a matter of joy,
than of grief, because they are supposed to
have had a removal to a belter world, without
the contaminations and vexations, which are
inseparable from a long residence here.
Hence, at their funerals, their friends rejoice;
though, human nature being every where
substantially the same, parents can hardly
fail to grieve in secret.
Those, who stand as the godparents of
children, are so far their guardians, that, if
parents neglect, or abuse their children, the
godparents can take measures to secure them
proper usage. Custom, also, allows a run
away slave to choose a padrino, or godfather,
who intercedes for his pardon, and ensures
his future good behavior. Padrinos, in this
case, are often the parish priests. Upon such
interference, the slave escapes punishment.
If a Man abuses his wife, she is removed
from his house, upon complaint being made
to the Alcalde, or magistrate, and is placed in
some respectable family where she is kept at
the expense of the husband.
The dead are buried without coffins. They
are borne to the grave in what is called a
shell, which is reserved for future use. The
testator sometimes describes, in his will, the
dress, in which he would be buried. At the
Havana, quick-lime is thrown upon the body
to consume the flesh. In some districts of
the country, interments are very carelessly
performed. The churches being opened at a very early
hour in the morning, the more zealous Cath
olics go to mass as their first business. Many
take the first hours of daylight to walk or ride.
Breakfast is served from 8 to 10, and is a
more substantial meal, than is common with
us. The usual hour for dining is from 3 to
5, after which it is customary to indulge in
a siesta, or short sleep. While the sun is
setting, and while the brief twilight lasts, the
ladies, dressed in good style, ride on the
Paseo, at the Havana— about the city, at
Matanzas — and over the plantations, in the
country. This is the hour for going on
'Change, and the Mole at the Havana is then
thronged with gentlemen. The inhabitants
usually retire to rest at an early hour.
Trial by jury is not enjoyed" on the island;
and I heard frequent and loud complaints
made of the want of sound principle in the
judges. There are no oral pleadings in the
courts. Every thing; is done by writing. Law
suits are frequent, tedious, and expensive.
When a man becomes insolvent, instead of
seizing on his property, and dividing it among
the oreditors, a suitable time is commonly
given him, in which to pay his debts; during
which time his crops are embargoed, so much
only being allowed the debtor, as will suffice
to conduct the plantation.
Protestants, as such, cannot hold real es
tate on the island. Certificates of being good
Catholics must first be obtained from some
priest. These certificates, however, money
will pretty easily procure.

Remarks on the Island of Cuba.

11

The Catholic religion is the only one loler- I
ated. I suppose a congregation of Protestants,
worshipping according to Protestant forms,
would be held an illegal assembly. X. nder the
constitutional government, numerous copies
of the Scriptures, sentfrom the United States,
Great Britain and Holland, were sold or given
away; and I am inclined to the belief that, by
prudent management, a few might be dispos
ed of now: though it may be doubted whether
they would pass the Custom House.
The opening of Cuba to free commerce has
occasioned considerable changes in the man
ners, customs, and condition of the inhabitants.
They have since advanced rapidly on the scale
of human life. How could they make progress
before. Their houses and tables, especially in
the interior, are much better furnished. 1
dare not state how deficient they were in this
respect 15 years ago, lest I may have been
misinformed, or should not gain full credence.
No small progress has been made in liberal
views and feelings, with respect to other re
ligious denominations; and the attachment of
the people at large to the forms and ceremo
nies of the Catholic church has been consid
erably moderated. I know that much of this
is owing to the prevalence of an infidel skep
ticism, or, as I heard a good Padre call it,
while mourning over the evil, "the new phi
losophy:" but something is to be attributed to
an enlargement of views, consequent upon an
intercourse with the world; and something, it
may be presumed, to the influence of the
Scriptures, which have been circulated.
It cannot be said, however, that morals
have improved: neither am I aware, that they
have materially changed for the worse. I
enter with diffidence on this part of the sub
ject, knowing that a traveller, but imperfect
ly acquainted with the language of a people,
residing but a little while in a place, and pass
ing as it were over the surface of society, is
more likely to see the vices, than the virtues
of the community; and of course is in danger
of misapprehension. How great this danger
is, all must have felt, who have been familiar
with the accounts, which English travellers
have given of the United States. At the
same time, the moral and religious character
of a people is not to be passed in silence.
There are several causes, which operate un
favorably on the morals of the inhabitants of
Cuba. The principal are these: — the ease,
with which absolution is obtained, by confess
ing sin, without forsaking it — the want of pub
lic preaching — the disregard of the Sabbath —

and the loose character of the clergy, as a
body. To these might be added, the low-
standard of public opinion, with respect to
moral character; — low, I mean, *hen com
pared with ils standard in New England.
The first must operate most powerfully on
the ignorant and credulous, going far to set
them free from the restraints of conscience,
and the salutary correctious of remorse; and
thus breaking down one of the strongest bar
riers, which Almighty God has opposed to
vice — The preaching of the Gospel, another
divinely appointed means of national virtue,
is seldom heard on the island. I could not
learn, that more than one or two sermons are
preached in a year. — The observance of holy
time in a holy manner, another ordinance of
heaven designed for the same purpose, is also
disregarded. Mass is said in the morning of
the Sabbath, after which the churches are
shut for the day. The markets are held as
usual. Counting-houses are open. The places
of amusement are unusually frequented.
"Sunday," said a respectable Catholic to me,
— "Sunday we regard as a day for enjoying
one's self" — I have spoken favorably of two
Catholic priests, with whom I became ac
quainted;'' and' I doubt not there are others
quite as estimable. But I have painful rea
son to believe, that the Catholic clergy, as a
body, are exceedingly corrupt, and exert an
influence, as pernicious as it is extensive, on
the public morals. — The standard of publie
opinion with respect to moral conduct, is,
perhaps, rather an effect, than a cause: yet
il cannot be doubted, that the moral character
of every man is more or less influenced by a
regard to public opinion. In this point
of view, public opinion becomes a powerful
agent. Were this agent as it should be in
Cuba, the clergy (I of course speak of the ir
religious portion,) would be obliged to reform,
or retire from the sacred office.
I close these remarks — already, I fear, too
much prolonged — by expressing my earnest
desire, that a curiosity may be excited in our
community to know more, than we have
hitherto known, of the character and circum
stances of our Catholic neighbors at the South.
To us, as a Protestant people, it is a subject
of very serious interest, that no less than six
empires, all holding the Catholic Faith,
— saying nothing of islands in the West
Indies, — are growing up in the same hemi
sphere with ourselves! * See p. 9.

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