.S-y^ Yale Center for British Art and British Studies MARYLEBONE AND ST. PANCRAS. St. marylebone church. E AND St. Pancras THEIR HISTORY, CELEBRITIES, BUILDINGS, AND INSTITUTIONS. BY (;e()Rge clinch ) t \ {Of the Department of Printed Books, British Museum), Author of "Bloomsbury & St. Giles's," &c. Mitb IRumcrous 3llu6ti*ationj?. LONDON : TRUSLOVE & SHIRLEY, 143, OXFORD STREET, W. 1890. printed by TRUSLOVE and BRAY, KNIGHT's HILL ROAD, WEST NORWOOD, S.E. PREFACE. THE wide area occupied by the districts of Marylebone and St. Pancras contains rich and extensive materials for a book of local history. Indeed it would be impossible to put a detailed and exhaustive history of these most interesting places in a volume of the size which is now before the reader. Such a work would require, not one, but many such volumes. To tell the truth, the author has not attempted anything of the nature of an exhaustive history. He has endeavoured to make a selection from the large mass of material at his disposal, using such parts of it as seemed likely to be generally and permanentl}^ acceptable to his readers ; and, while no important branch of the subject has been omitted intentionally, many branches have been treated with brevity in consequence of the obvious limitations of space in a volume of this scope and size, and some, upon which one would desire to linger awhile, have, for the same reason, been condensed and modified. It may be explained here that only the southern portion of St. Pancras has been included in this book, the great historical interest which centres in and immediately around the old church, demanding too much space to allow of any account of the more northern portions. The accounts of the Royal Toxophilite Society and the Foundling Hospital are, to some extent, based upon accounts which have recently appeared in "Bloomsbury and St. Giles's," by the present writer. It is a frequent complaint that life is not long enough to allow of as much reading as one would like, or, rather. vi. PREFACE. that so much is crowded into one's life as to leave time only for limited literary recreation. It is for this reason that the present writer hesitates to occupy as much of his readers' time and attention as the subject might seem to demand ; and, in attempting to meet this popular wish for a summarized account, he humbly begs the indulgence of those who may have expected a more elaborate and comprehensive book upon two most important and influential metropolitan districts. In attempting to shape his book to this end, the author has received the greatest and most valuable help (especially in the pictorial part) from his friend, Mr. A. Bernard Sykes, several of whose sketches, specially executed for the purpose from old water colour drawings in the Grace Collection, British Museum, are used in the illustration of the volume. The author cannot allow the present opportunity to pass without expressing his sincere thanks to those kind friends who have afforded him information and useful hints ; and, without singling out for mention any particular name, he feels that it would be unpardonable were he not to record his deep thanks and hearty appreciation of the many kindnesses he has received in this way. It would be equally ungracious were he to omit a brief reference to the authorities he has made use of in the compilation of this work. Stow, Lysons, Cunningham, Thomas Smith (Topographical and Historical Account of Marylebone), and a valuable collection of drawings, cuttings, and documents relating to the parish of St. Pancras, gathered together by Mr. R. Percival, and now preserved in the British Museum Library — these, and many other sources, have provided material which is indispensable for such a book as that with which the author has essayed to amuse or instruct his readers. CONTENTS MARYLEBONE. CHAPTER I. PAGE Early History: — Ancient name of Marylebone. — Domesday Account. — The Manor. — Marylebone Park. — Fox-hunting and hare-hunting. — Marylebone Manor-house. — Oxford House, and the Harleian Manuscripts. — The Tybourne. — The Hole-bourne. — The Westbourne. — The source and ancient course of the Tybourne River. — Conduits. — Annual inspection of the Conduits. — The Lord Mayor's Banqueting House. — Origin of the name Tybourne. — Thorney Island 3 CHAPTER II. Ecclesiastical History: — St. Marylebone Old Church. — The site of St. John's Church. Thefts of Church Goods. — Rebuilding of the Church. — Dedication to St. Mary, the Virgin. — Hogarth's picture of the interior of the Church. — "The Rake's Progress." — Vault of the Forset Family. — Demolition of the Church in 1740. — Rebuilding of the Church in 1741. — Inadequate accommodation. — Suggestions for a new Church. — Epitaphs, &c., in Marylebone Old Church. — Sir Edmund Douce. — James Gibbs, architect. — Baretti. — Storace. — John Allen, apothecary. — Caroline Watson, engraver. — Celebrated names in the Burial Register. — St. Marylebone New Church. — Architectural features. — St. Mary's Church. — All Souls' Church.— Holy Trinity Church. — Christ Church. — St. Peter's Church, Vere Street. — St. Paul's Church, Great Portland Street. — St. John's Wood Chapel.— Dissenting Chapels. — French Chapel . . 15 CHAPTER III. Marylebone Gardens, Taverns, &c. : — Marylebone Gardens. — The French Gardens. — Illuminations, fireworks, and music, at Marylebone Gardens. — "The Forge of Vulcan." — Dr. WiUiam Kenrick's lectures.— The Marylebone Spa.— James Figg and "The Boarded House." — Bowling Greens. — "The Rose of Normandy." — "The Queen's Head and Artichoke." — "The Yorkshire Stingo." — "The Old Farthing Pie House." — "The Jew's Harp " . . ... . . . 31 viii. CONTEXTS. CHAPTER IV. PAGE Modern History :— Regent's Park.— Old Marylebone Park.— Willan's Farm.— Other Farms. —Construction of "the Regent's Park."— Proposed Triumphal Arch.— St. Dunstan's Villa.— Regent's Canal.— St. John's Wood.— Lisson Green.— Lisson Fields.— The New Road.— Cavendish Square. —Portman Square. —Manchester Square.— Dorset Square.— Blandford Square. — Bryanston and Montague Squares . 5° CHAPTER V. Tyburn Tree and Primrose Hill:— The name Tyburn.— " Deadly Never Green." — Fuller's derivation. — The journey to Tyburn. — St. Giles's Bowl. — Tom Clinch. — Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw. — Celebrated Executions : Holy Maid of Kent, Robert Southwell, Mrs. Turner, John Felton, Hacker, Axtell, Okey, Barkstead, Corbet, Thomas Sadler, Sir Thomas Armstrong, John Smith, Jack Sheppard, Lord Ferrers, John Wesket, Dr. Hensey, John Rann, Dr. Dodd, Elizabeth Gaunt, John Austen. — Hangmen: Derrick, Gregory Brandon, " Esquire Dun," John Ketch. — Primrose Hill and Barrow Hill.— Green Berry Hill.— Murder of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey. — Duels. — Capt. Macnamara and Col. Montgomery, — Barrow Hill.— Origin of name 67 CHAPTER VI. Societies and Institutions : — The Marylebone Volunteers. — The Royal York St. Marylebone Volunteers. — The Royal Toxophilite Society, Regent's Park. — Sir Ashton Lever. — The Archers' Hall. — The Marylebone Cricket Club. — Thomas Lord. — M. Garnerin's balloon ascent. — The Zoological Society. — The Royal Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park. — The Middlesex Hospital . . 79 CHAPTER VII. Marylebone Celebrities, &c. : — Joanna Southcott. — Mrs. Siddons. — Anecdote of Handel. — Thomas Holcroft. — Horatia "Nelson." — Marylebone Celebrities: — Mary Lamb, Edward Gibbon, Henry Fuseli, " Berners Street Hoax." — Faraday, Wilkie, Flaxman, James Barry, Dr. Johnson, George Romney, John Constable, Thomas Hood, Landseer, Thomas Moore, Barry Cornwall, Lyell, Leigh Hunt, Dickens, Macready, NoUekens, Anna Jameson, Samuel Lover, Benjamin West, Thomas Stothard, J. M. W. Turner, Thomas Campbell, Frederick Marryat, Sydney Smith, J. G. Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott, Henry Hallam, Admiral Lord Hood, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, ^^¦ill^am Pitt, Lady Hester Stanhope. — Miscellanea. — Cato Street Conspiracy. — Verley's Charity — Marylebone Rates, &c. g3 CONTENTS. ix. ST. PANCRAS. CHAPTER VIII. PAGE Early History : — The Brill ; Dr. Stukeley's theory of its having been a Roman camp. — Defensive works in 1643. — Pastoral character of the district. — Value of land. — The name St. Pancras. — Manors of Cantelows (Kentish Town), Totenhall, Pancras, and Ruggemere. — King John's Palace. — The Adam and Eve. — "The Paddington Drag." — The Pinder of Wakefield. —Battle Bridge and King's Cross . . -115 CHAPTER IX. Ecclesiastical History : — The old Church of St. Pancras. — Quaint description in 1593. — Antiquity of St. Pancras Church. — French Refugees. — Benefactions to the church. — Renovation in 1848. — Altar Stone. — Epitaphs. — Epigram in St. Pancras Churchyard. — Anecdote of the Poet Chatterton. — The New Church of St. Pancras. — St. James's Church, Hampstead Road. — Whitefield's Tabernacle. — "Resurrection-Men." — Monu ments. — Demolition of the Tabernacle, i8go. — Presbyterian Church, Regent Square. — Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square . .129 CHAPTER X. Springs and Wells of St. Pancras: — Lamb's Conduit. — William Lamb. — Public rejoicings. — The Lamb Public House. — The River Holebourne. — Black Mary's Hole. — Bagnigge Wells. — The Pinder of Wakefield. — Nell Gwynne. — Properties of the waters. — Bagnigge Wells Tea-gardens. — "The Bagnigge Organfist." — Pancras Wells — The Adam and Eve, Pancras. — St. Chad's Well. — Portrait of St. Chad. — Tottenham Court Fair. — Smock Race . . . . . 144 CHAPTER XI. Popular Exhibitions and St. Katharine's Hospital: — The Colosseum. — Panoramic View of London. — The Swiss Cottage. — The Glyptotheca. — Classic Ruins. — Stalactite Cavern. — Cyclorama of Lisbon. — The Diorama. — The Cosmorama. — The Royal Hospital of St. Katharine: foundation, benefactions, statutes, &c. — Raymond LuUy. — The Hospital Church. — Removal to Regent's Park ... . . 164 CHAPTER XII. Institutions, Theatres, &c. : — University College. — St. Pancras Volunteers. — The Royal Panarmonion Gardens. — Thorrington's Suspension Railway. — The Tottenham Theatre. — The Cabinet Theatre . .179 .X. CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. PAGE Charities, Hospitals, &c. : — Charities : Heron's Charity ; Miller's Gift ; Stanhope's Gift ; Charles's Gift ; Cleeve's Gift ; Coventry's Gift ; Piatt's Gift ; Church Lands ; Donor unknown, — Ancient Bequests. — Charity School. — The Foundling Hospital. — Thomas Coram. — Hatton Garden Premises. — William Hogarth's Pictures. — Raphael's Cartoon. — G. F. Handel.— "The Messiah." — Benjamin West, R.A. —The Small Pox Hospital. — The Royal Free Hospital. — North London, or University College Hospital . i85 CHAPTER XIV. Celebrities and Miscellanea : — St. Pancras Celebrities : Frank Buckland, John Leech, Barry Cornwall, Charles Dickens, Charles Darwin, Thackeray, Shelley, Charles Kean, Samuel Warren, Dr. Dodd, George Smith. — Anecdote of Toplady. — Miscellanea ; — Capper's Farm, Pugilism, Items from Old Newspapers . . . . 207 Index 215 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS. St. Marylebone Church Plan of Marylebone Estate, when purchased by OF Newcastle, 1708 Plan of the Estate of Lord Harley and Lady Cavendish Holles Harley, 1719 Marylebone Manor House, 1791 .... The School House at Marylebone Map of Marylebone and its Vicinity, from Morde Map of London, 1732 Interior of the old Church of Marylebone (from " Rake's Progress ") Old Mary-le-bone Church, before 1740 View of St. Marylebone Church, 1750 . Churches, &c., in Marylebone and St. Pancras . Plan of Marylebone Gardens, 1756 The Grand Walk, Marylebone Gardens, 1755 The Queen's Head and Artichoke, 1819 The old Rose of Normandy The Rose of Normandy, 1840 Rose of Normandy, built 1850 .... The Queen's Head and Artichoke, 1796 Yorkshire Stingo, 1770 The old Farthing Pie House, 1724 Jew's Harp Inn, Regent's Park, 1784 Plan of the Regent's Park View in Regent's Park View in Regent's Park Map of the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone, 1833 . The Idle 'Prentice executed at Tyburn . Pastimes of Primrose Hill & Lea's facing Hogarth's facing facing 18 Frontispiece. PAGE the Duke facijtg 4 Henrietta facing 6 . „ 8 . ,, 10 12 16 17 2832 34 40 4344 4445464748 facing 505254647276 xu. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS. (from an facing facing facing The entrance of Great Portland Street, i View in the Regent's Park: Subscription Archery Rooms facing Bird's eye view of Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park . ,, Zoological Gardens Portrait of Joanna Southcott .... Joanna Southcott's Seal, 1806 ..... Mrs. Siddons in the character of the Tragic Muse engraving after Sir Joshua Reynolds) Devonshire Place and Wimpole Street, 1799 Portrait of Arthur Thistlewood .... The Stable in Cato Street, 1820 .... Cesar's Camp at St. Pancras ..... The Brill, near the Foundling Hospital . Part of old Tottenham Court .... King John's Palace, near Tottenham Court Part of the Adam and Eve, 181 i .... Corner of Gray's Inn Lane and Battle Bridge Elevation of King's Cross, 1830 .... S.W. view of St. Pancras Church, 1750 A south view of the Church of St. Pancras . New Church of St. Pancras Tottenham Court Road Turnpike, about 1800 engraving after Rowlandson) Whitefield's New Chapel, 1764 The East Side of Fitzroy Square, 1807 Old Bagnigge Wells Tea Gardens ... Saint Pancras Wells, from an old drawing in black and white St. Chad's Well, Gray's Inn Lane, 1850 Smock Race at Tottenham Court Fair (1738) The Colosseum, Regent's Park St. Katharine's Hospital . University of London School, 1833 The Foundling Hospital, 1750 The Inoculating Hospital at Pancras facing (from an facing facing facing 78 84 94 95 106107 108 114 116118 120122125126 130132^37138140 143 152 156159162 i65 176 180194202 MARYLEBONE. CHAPTER I. MARYLEBONE: EARLY HISTORY. Ancient name of Marylebone — Domesday account. — The Manor. — Marylebone Park. — Fox-hunting and hare-hunting, — Marylebone Manor-house, — Oxford House and the Harleian Manuscripts. — The Tybourne. — The Hole-bourne. — The Westbourne. — The source and ancient course of the Tybourne River. — Conduits. — .\nnual inspection of the Conduits — The Lord Mayor's Banqueting House. — Origin of the name Tybourne. — Thorney Island. N ANCIENT times the name of Marylebone was Tyburn, a name derived from a stream so called which flowed through it. The ^^ manor of T\'burn, containing five hides of land, is described in the Domesday Book as parcel of the ancient demesnes of the abbess and convent of Barking, who held it under the Crown. The land, says the survey, is three carucates. Two hides are in demesne, on which is one plough ; the villans employ two ploughs. There are two villans, holding half a hide, one villan who holds half a virgate, two bordars* who have 10 acres, and three cottars. There is pasture for the cattle of the village, woods for 50 hogs, and 40^. arising from the herbage. In the whole valued at 526'. ; in King Edward's time at loos. Robert de Vere, who held this manor under the Abbe}' of Barking, gave it in marriage \\ith his daughter Joan, to William de Insula, Earl Warren and of Surrey, whose son John dying without issue, it descended to Richard Earl of Arundel, son of his sister Alice. the death of Richard the succeeding earl, who was beheaded his estates became the joint property of his daughters and * Bordarii, in the Domesday Survey, meant persons supposed to be inferior to the villani, as being limited to a small number of acres. Bordarii were also servants employed about the house in fetching wood, drawing water, grinding corn, and the like domestic duties. 4 MARYLEBONE. co-heirs. W'illiam Marquis of Berkeley, who had an interest in this inheritance, as descended from Joan Fitzalan, through the Mowbrays, is said to have given the manor of Marylebone to Sir Reginald Bray, prime minister to King Henry \TI. ; but probably it was only his share in it ; for it appears that Thomas Hobson, about the year 150;, purchased three parts of this manor of Lord Bergavenny, the Earl of Derby, and the Earl of Surrey. It is most likely that he purchased tiie remaining part of Sir Reginald Bray. In the year 1544, Thomas Hobson, son (it is supposed) of the last-mentioned Thomas, c.xciianged this manor with the King for some church lands. Queen Elizabeth, in 1583, granted a lease of the manor of Tyburn to Edward I'orset for 21 }ears, at the yearly rent of £16 lis. 8d.; and in 1595, to Robert Conquest and others (trustees, it is probable) on the same terms. In the \ear 1611, King James granted the manor, \\ith all its appurtenances, excepting the park, for the sum of ;^829 y. .\d., ta Edward F"orset, Esq., in whose famii}- it continued several years, and then passed into that of .\usten, b}- the marriage of Arabella Forset with Thomas .\usten, Escp In the year 1710, it was purchased of John Austen, Esq., afterwards Sir John Austen, Bart., b\' John Holies, Duke of Newcastle. .\ plan of the }\Iar\-lebone Estate, showing the fields, with their names and sizes, and tlie projected streets to be built over them, is here reproduced, from a valuable manuscript plan in the Grace Collection of topographical views, maps, and plans in the British Museum. It is dated 1708, which is probably the time when the preliminar}' negociations for the sale were being carried on. The Duke"s only daughter and heir married Edward Harley, Earl (jf Oxford and Mortimer, and thus the manor came into possession of the Harley famil}-. The manor came into the possession of the Portland family by the marriage of Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley with Wilham, 2nd Duke of Portland. .Miout the year 1813 an exchange was effected for some lands in Sherwood I'orest valued at £40,000, and thus the Crown became again possessed of the manor of Marj'lebone. The manor house of Marylebone, which was taken down in the year 1791, during the time it was \ested in the Crown, is said to have been PLAN OF THE MARYLEBONE ESTATE When purchased by the Duke of Newcastle, 1708, FOX AND HARE HUXTLXG. 5 used as one of the royal palaces. It will be found more particularly described below. In early times a large tract of ground in Marj-lebone parish appears to have been used for hunting purposes. An early (probably the earliest) notice of the park, which was ancienth' known as Marybone Park, refers to its being used for that purpose. " The 3d of February, 1600-1, the Ambassadours from the Emperour of Russia, and other the Muscovites, rode through the Cittie of London, to Marybone Park, and there hunted at their pleasure, and shortly after returned homeward." — The Pro gresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth. By fohn Nichnls, F.S..I., Vol. III. p. 519. It is extremely probable that some provision was made fur hunting in and around this neighbourhood at an earlier date than that just mentioned. Stow gives an account of hare-hunting and fox-hunting in this district upon the occasion of the Aisitation of the conduits at Tj'burn b}' the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London in the year 1562. "And after dinner," he says, "they went to hunting the fox. There was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at the end of St. Giles's." When King James I., in 1611, granted the manor of Marylebone to Edward Forset, Esq., he reserved the park, called Marybone Park, in his own hands. It continued in the possession of the Crown until the year 1646, when King Charles, by letters patent, dated at Oxford (May 6), granted it to Sir George Strode and John Wandesford, Esq., as security for a debt of ;£"23i8 iis. gd. due to them for supplying arms and ammunition during the troubles. After the King's death, when the Crown lands in general were sold, this park, without any regard to the claim of the grantees above mentioned, was sold to John Spencer of London, Gentleman, on behalf of Col. Thomas Harrison's regiment of dragoons, on whom Marybone Park was settled for their pay. Sir John Ipsley was at this time ranger, by authorit\- of the Protector. The purchase money was ,^13,215 6s. 8d., including ;fi3o for the deer (124 in number, of several sorts) and £1774 8s. for the timber, exclusively of 2976 trees marked for the nav}'. On the restoration of Charles the Second, Sir George Strode and Mr. Wandesford were re-instated in their possession of the park, which r, MARYLEBONE. the\- held till their debt was discharged, except the great lodge and sixty acres of land, which had been granted for a term of years to Sir Wilham Clarke, Secretary to the Lord General, the Duke of Albemarle. A compensation was made also to John Carey, Esq., for the loss of the rangership which he had formerly held. The site of the park (for it was disparked before the Restoration, and never after wards stocked) was leased in 1668 to Henry Earl of Arlington ; in 1696 to Charles Bertie and others, in trust for the Duke of Leeds ; in 1724 to Samuel Grey, Esq. Mr. Grey's interest in the lease was purchased by Thomas Gibson, John Jacob, and Robert Jacomb, Esqrs., who renewed it in 1730, 1735, and 1742. In 1754, a lease was granted to Lucy Jacomb, widow, and Peter Hinde, Esq., In 1765, \\'illiam Jacombe, Esq., had a fresh lease for an undivided share, being 15 parts in 24. The term of this share was prolonged in 1772, and again in 1780, for eight years, to commence from January 24th, 1803. In the year 1789, Mr. Jacomb sold his interest in the estate to the Duke of Portland. In 1765 and 1772 Jacob Hinde, Esq., had new leases of the remaining undivided share, being 9 parts in 24. These leases expired in 1803. The Duke of Portland's lease expired in January 1811. About the year 1813, the manor came again into the possession of the Crown, an exchange being effected for land of the value of ;^40,ooo, situated in Sherwood Forest. The various leases which had been granted bj- the Crown falling in during the regency of George IV., Marylebone Park began to be laid out by Mr. James Morgan in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John Nash, and in honour of the Prince Regent, was called the Regent's Park. MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE. This mansion, which was attached to the royal park of Marylebone, was originally built in the reign of Henr}' \TII., and was occasionally used as one of the royal palaces during the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth. The earliest representation of the house is supposed to be a drawing made by Joslin, dated 1700, which was formerl}' in the possession of the Duke of Buckingham. It comprehends the field-gate and palace, its surrounding walls and adjacent buildings in Marylebone to the rm ? ?¦¦ i<|J^# H ill iU *¦?¦*> N 0 Vv; m —rsr 5 5- ¦J ^ if !i I ny HIi ¦* ¦; m MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE. 7 south - west, including a large mansion, which in all probability had been Oxford House, the grand receptacle of the Harleian Library. An engraving of the view was published 20th September, 1800, by J. T. Smith, of Great Portland Street. It stood on the south side of what is now Marylebone Road, the exact site being that which is now occupied by Devonshire Mews. The following lines from J. T. Smith's " Book for a Rainy Day," may assist us to realise the exact form of the house: — "This house consisted of an immense body and two wings, a projecting porch in the front, and an enormously deep dormer roof, supported by numerous cantalevers, in the centre of which there was, within a very bold pediment, a shield surmounted by foliage with labels below it." The back or garden front consisted of a flat face with a bay window at each end, glazed in quarries, and the wall of the back front terminated in five gables. The first flight of the grand staircase consisted of sixteen steps, and the handrails were supported with richly carved perforated foliage, the date of which is ascribed bj' Mr. J. T. Smith to the period of Inigo Jones. The decorations of the staircase were executed in tessellated work. The mansion was wholly of brick, and surmounted by a large turret containing the clock and bell. In the year 1703 a large school was established here by Mr. De la Place. That gentleman's daughter married the Rev. John Fountayne, Rector of North Tidmouth in Wiltshire, and the latter succeeded Mr. De la Place in the school. The school is said to have attained a considerable reputation among the nobility and gentry, whose sons there received an educational training previously to their removal to the universities. There were at one time above a hundred pupils in Mr. Fountayne's establishment, and on Sunday morning as they walked to St. Marjde- bone Church, two and two, some in pea - green, others in sky - blue, and several in the brightest scarlet, and many with gold - laced hats, and flowing locks, they are described by an eye-witness as a sight worth seeing. The school appears to have been continued until the year 1791, when the house was taken down and some livery stables were built on its site. Over the western entrance to these stables was placed a 8 MARYLEBONE. clock, which had originally occupied a prominent position in the old mansion, but which was removed some time before the year 1833. The old mansion was demolished under the superintendence of a Mr. John Brown, a builder who resided in the parish upwards of fifty years, and who died at the advanced age of eighty. In the hall of this old manor-house there was many years ago a parrot, so aged that its few remaining feathers -were for years confined to its wrinkled skin li\' a flannel jacket, which in very cold weather received an additional broadcloth covering of the brightest scarlet, so that Poll, like the Lord Mayor, had her scarlet daj's. Poll, who had been long accustomed to hear her mistress's general invitation to strangers who called to enquire after the boarders, relieved her of that ceremony by uttering, as soon they entered, " Do pray walk into the parlour and take a glass of wine," but this she finally did with so little discrimination, that when a servant came with a letter or a card for her mistress, he was greeted b\' the bird with equal liberalit}' and politeness. OXFORD HOUSE AND THE HARLEIAN MSS. It has been erroneousl}' supposed b\' some that the ancient manor house of Marylebone was indentical with Oxford House. Jesse, in his work, entitled "London : its celebrated characters and remarkable places,'' so speaks of it. He says, " Oxford House, the ancient manor house of Marylebone, and the residence at a later period of the Harleys, Earls of Oxford, stood as late as the year 1791, on the site of Devon shire Mews, New Road." It is improbable that the Earls of Oxford ever resided at Marylebone Manor House ; but their noble librarj' of books and manuscripts was deposited in a house built for that purpose in High Street, about 120 }-ards south of the Manor House. .\ drawing of the Manor house bj? Joslin about the \-ear 1700, shows the house itself, its surrounding walls and adjacent buildings in IMarjlebone to the south-west, including a large mansion which was considered by Mr. John Thomas Smith (author of "A Book for a Rai)iy Day ") to be probably Oxford House, the grand receptacle of the Harleian Library. After the removal of that library to the British Museum, Oxford House was nearly rebuilt, with a modern front, by Mr. John Brown MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE, 1791. THE HARLEIAN MANUSCRIPTS. g of Clipstone Street, and occupied as a boarding school for young ladies. The celebrated Harleian Collection of Manuscripts, which now forms one of the many valuable collections in the Library of the British Museum, was collected in the latter part of the 17th century by Robert Harley, of Brampton Bryan, in the County of Hereford, Esq. ; who on the nth Februarj' 1700, was chosen Speaker of the House of Commons ; on the 24th May, 1711, was created Earl of O.xford and Mortimer; and five days afterwards promoted to the important station of Lord High Treasurer of Great Britain. The Harley family appears to have been remarkable for an appreciative taste for literature. The Earl's grandfather. Sir Robert Harley, Knight of the Bath, had at his seat at Brampton Bryan Castle, a library of manuscripts and printed books, collected from one descent to another, and valued at £"1000. This together with the castle and church of Brampton, &c., was, during the troublous times of the civil war, destroyed by the parliamentary army. After his retirement from public business, the Earl of Oxford spent the remainder of his days in unwearied application for the gaining accessions to his library, not sparing anj' expense for that purpose. He kept many persons employed in purchasing manuscripts for him abroad, giving them such written instructions for their conduct in that respect, as sufficiently manifest the exact knowledge he had acquired as well of every curious manuscript as of the person, circumstances, and residence of its possessor. By these means the manuscript library was, in the year 1721, increased to near six thousand books ; fourteen thousand original charters ; and five hundred rolls. At his death, which occurred on the 21st May, 1724, his son and successor, Edward, the second Earl, followed his noble example, and devoted a great part of his fortune to the completion of what had been so auspiciously commenced. Upon the death of the second Earl, in June, 1741, the library became the propert}' of his daughter and heiress, Margaret Cavendish, Duchess of Portland, and on the institution of the British Museum, in 1753, it was purchased of the Duke and Duchess, by the country, for the sum of -£"10,000. The collection contains 7639 volumes, exclusive of 14,236 original rolls, charters, deeds, and other legal instruments. 10 MARYLEBONE. The " Catalogue of the Harleian Manuscripts in the British Museum," a monument of industry and learning, was originally commenced in 1708, by Mr. Humphrey Wanley, the librarian to Robert and Edward, the first and second Earls of Oxford. He was employed on it until his death, in July, 1726, by which time he had reached No. 2408. It was resumed in 1733, by Mr. Casley, Keeper of the Cottonian Library, who continued it to No. 5709. Soon after the death of the Earl of Oxford, in June, 1741, the catalogue was committed to the care of Mr. Hocker, the Deputy Keeper of the Records in the Tower, who, in less than two years, completed it as far No. 7355. In this state the catalogue remained until the 22nd of July, 1800, when, at the express desire of the Record Commission, the Trustees engaged Rev. Rob. Nares, under librarian of the MS. Department, to revise and correct the latter part of the catalogue, beginning at No. 3100. This task, and the revision of the previous part of the catalogue, between Nos. 2408 and 3100, was per formed by him, with the assistance of Rev. Stebbing Shaw and Mr. Douce ; and the first three volumes were printed and published in 1808. The fourth volume, which consists of Indexes, was compiled by Rev. Thomas Hartwell Horne, and was published in 1812. THE TYBOURNE. The well-known names of Holborn, Marylebone, Tyburn, and West bourne, owe their origin to, and preserve the memory of three streams or brooks, arising in the high ground about Hampstead and Highgate, and flowing in a south-ward direction to the Thames. Traces still remain of the streams, but in the crowded streets of London, except in the local names, little remains to be seen of them, although it is pretty certain that they have played an important part in the physical geography of the districts through which they ran. The " Hole-bourne," from whence we get the ancient name Oldburn, and the modern name Holborn, arose in and around the ponds at Hampstead and Highgate, and after a meandering course through Kentish Town, Camden Town (where the two main branches united and made one channel), Somers Town, Battle Bridge, Farringdon Road, and Farringdon Street, and so into the Thames at the place where Black friars Bridge spans the river. It was subsequently called the Fleet River. THE SCHOOL HOUSE AT MARYLEBONE. THE TYBOURNE. n The " Westbourne " had its origin in several small streams in the neighbourhood of West Hampstead, from whence it flowed through Kilburn, Bayswater, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and into the Thames at the Hospital Gardens, Chelsea. The " Tybourne," or Tyburn, in which we are more particularly interested, occupied an area lying between those through which the " Hole-hourne " and the " Westbourne " ran. Like them its source was in the northern heights of London, and its course was southward. It had two main sources ; one at Shepherd's Well Conduit, now Fitzjohn Avenue, Hampstead ; and the other near the site of Belsize Manor House. The streams flowing from these two sources united in the neighbourhood of Barrow Hill and Primrose Hill, and the course from thence was through Regent's Park, the water being conveyed across Regent's Canal by means of an aqueduct. The Tybourne formerly supplied the artificial waters of Regent's Park. From thence it proceeded across the boundary of Regent's Park and across Baker Street and Marylebone Road, where a depression is to be seen marking the channel. The ancient church of the parish, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was situated near the present courthouse, in the erection of which, in 1727, the site of the churchyard, indicated by remains of interments, was discovered. In the fourteenth century it fell into a ruinous state from neglect, its lonely situation rendered it subject to dilapidations, and its bells and ornaments were frequently stolen. Robert Braybrook, Bishop of London, therefore granted a license to the parishioners, on petition dated October, 1400, to build a new church near where a chapel had been erected. This was dedicated to St. Mary, and remained until May, 1740, when being ruinous it was taken down. This new dedication gave a new name to the manor and parish, for being built near the stream, the name of Mary-le-bourne was given, which has become changed into Marylebone. In earlier times the name seems to have been simply Marybone, and it was sometimes written Marrow-bone. From Marylebone Road to Oxford Street the course of the Tybourne is not marked in any known map, except one of great interest accom panying Mr. J. G. Waller's paper on " The Tybourne and the West bourne" {Transactions of the London and Middlesex Archceological Society, Pt. I. of Vol. VI.) To this map, and the valuable paper which it 12 MARYLEBONE. illustrates, we are much indebted for information and hints. A portion of the T)-bourne is represented in a map by William Faden, 1785, as taking a sweep westwards, bending round again to the east, and terminating at the then stables of the Horse Guards, as near as possible that of Baker Street Bazaar. From hence it may be faintly traced towards Marylebone Lane (which accommodates itself to the curves of the stream), when it becomes again visible in the maps of Lea and Glynne and others. The Tybourne was tributar}- to the ancient water-supph' of the metropolis. In the 21st year of Henry III., liberty was granted to Gilbert Sandford to convey water from Tyburn b\' pipes of lead to the cit\-, and there were subsequent extensions showing the early importance that the citizens of London attributed to a pure' water-supply. Conduits about nine in number were here distributed, many of which are marked in the map of Lea and Glynne. One was nearlv opposite South Street in a field east of Marylebone Lane ; another close to what is now the police station, and a few years back still in use; another in the rear of the Banqueting House, now Stratford Place ; and others on the south side of Oxford Street. The Lord Mayor's Banqueting House was used by the city authorities for entertainments when they came to visit and inspect the conduits in the \'icinity, and this ceremony was a day of some recreation to the mayor and aldermen, with their wives. It was usually held on the i8th of September, the citizens journe3ang upon horseback, and their ladies in waggons. Upon one of these occasions, in 1562, it is recorded by Strype that " The Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and many worshipful persons rode to the conduit-heads to see them according to old custom ; then they went and hunted a hare before dinner and killed her; and thence went to dinner at the Banqueting House, at the head of the conduit, where a great number were handsomely entertained by their chamberlain. After dinner they went to hunt the fox. There was a great cr)- for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at the end of St. Giles', with great hollowing and blowing of horns at his death ; and thence the Lord Mayor, with all his company, rode through London to his place in Lombard Street." After the establishment of the New River system the Corporation CMCO 1^ — 'S o i'tCO "^ t ^ Q 5 "^ J- LU S Z '-J o ^ CQ s: LU ¦= _J S > ^ O ^ < THORNEY ISLAND. 13 leased these conduits, which became part of a system of water-supply, called Marylebone ^^''aterworks, and there was a large reservoir, called Marylebone Basin, north of Cavendish Square and parallel to Portland Place. Portland Chapel, afterwards St. Paul's Church, was built upon the site which the reservoir formerly occupied. The Banqueting House was pulled down in 1737. Traces of the former course of the Tybourne are to be seen in the nanies Brook Street, Conduit Street, &c., and in the direction which certain streets took in order to avoid the course of the river. Good illustrations of this are visible in South Street, part of Marylebone Lane, and South Molton Lane. The stream flowed a little to the east of Berkeley Square, and, crossing Piccadilly, into the Green Park. Buckingham Palace is built upon a portion of its old course, and at a point a little south of that building the stream separated into two arms, one falling into the Thames a little south-west of the Houses of Parliament. The fall of water here was utilized for the Abbot's mill, hence the name Millbank, by which the spot is known to this day. The other arm, anciently forming the boundary of Westminster, fell into the Thames a little west of Vauxhall Bridge. The tract of ground bounded by these arms of the Tybourne and by the River Thames was called Thorney Island, the abundance of water around it in former times having been sufficient to give it a claim to the designation of an island. Mr. Waller considers the name to be equal to "the Isle of Thorns," and probably to have been derived from the whitethorn, which is very common still in our marshes, by the sides of ditches. Upon the space which represents the area of this ancient island stand the venerable building of Westminster Abbey, the ancient royal Palace of Westminster, and the more modern Houses of Parliament. There is some reason to suppose that the name Tybourne, or Tyburn, was derived from the circumstance of the brook being double in its sources and in the latter part of its course. Another good explana tion of the origin of the name is that it took the first part of the name, Ty, from the delta-like area of ground which the two arms bounded, and vvhich, as we have already said, was known in olden days as Thorney Island. In the old Enghsh language "tye," "tigh," or " teage " indicated an enclosure of land, and as such the name would be specially applicable to a stream which enclosed an island 14 MARYLEBONE. between its branching arms, as this enclosed Thorney Island. The stream is referred to as " Teoburna " in a charter of King Edgar, dated 951, and for many years it gave the name of Tyburn to the manor through which it ran, and which was afterwards called Marylebone in allusion to its situation upon this very stream. In old records this stream was referred to under the name of Aye-brook, or Eye-brook, a name which might easily have become corrupted to Tyburn. CHAPTER IL MARYLEBONE : ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. St. Marylebone Old Church.— The site of St. John's Church.— Thefts of Church Goods- Rebuilding of the Church. — Dedication to St. Mary, the Virgin. — Hogarth's picture of the interior of the Church. — " The Rake's Progress." — Vault of the Forset Family. — Demoli tion of the Church in 1740. — Rebuilding of the Church in 1741. — Inadequate accommo dation. — Suggestions for a new Church. — Epitaphs, &c., in Marylebone Old Church.— Sir Edmund Douce. — ^James Gibbs, architect. — Baretti. — Storace. — John Allen, apothecary. — Caroline Watson, engraver. — Celebrated names in the Burial Register. — St. Marylebone New Church. — Architectural features. — St. Mary's Church. — All Souls' Church.— Holy Trinity Church.— Christ Church.— St. Peter's Church, Vere Street.— St. Paul's Church, Great Portland Street. — St. John's Wood Chapel. — Dissenting Chapels.— French Chapel. ST. MARYLEBONE OLD CHURCH. ROBABLY the earliest church in Marylebone, and certainly the earliest of which we possess any record, was one dedicated to St. John. In the year 1400, Bishop Braybroke, the Bishop of London at that time, granted a license to the inhabitants upon their petition (dated October 23, 1400), to remove that old church, called " the old church of Tybourn," Tyburn being the name by which the place was known in early times. The site of the old church of St. John has been identified by topographers with the site of the court house, at the corner of Stratford Place, where great numbers of old bones were dug up some years since. The spot seems to have been a lonely one, as the church was subject to the depredations of robbers, who frequently stole the images, bells and ornaments. The license also provided for the building a new church of stone or flints, near the place where a chapel had been then lately erected, which chapel might in the meantime be used. The Bishop of London claimed the i6 MARYLEBONE. privilege of la\ing the first stone. The old churchyard was to be preserved, but the parishioners were allowed to enclose another adjoining the new church. This church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, became ruinous and dilapidated in the first half of the i8th century, as may be seen in the plate representing the marriage in Hogarth's "Rake's Progress" — a view which is regarded as the best representation of the interior of the old church. Dr. Trusler's " Hogarth Moralized," 1813, contains the following description of Hogarth's picture : — "The rake is here exhibited embracing the happy opportunity of recruiting his wasted fortune by a marriage with a deformed and super annuated female, ordinary even to a proverb, and possessed but of one eye. As this wedding was designed to be a private one, they are supposed to have retired for that purpose to the church of St. Mary-le- bone (which at that time was denominated a small village, in the outskirts of London) ; but as secret as he thought to keep it, it did not fail to reach the ears of an unfortunate \oung woman whom he had formerly seduced, and who is here represented entering with her child and mother, in order to forbid the solemnization. They are, however, opposed h^ the pew-opener, lest, through an interruption of the ceremony, she should lose her customary fee, and a battle consequently ensues — a manifest token of the small regard paid to these sacred places. By the decayed appearance of the walls of this building, the torn belief, and cracked commandments, our author would humorously and effectually intimate the great indifference shewn to the decency of churches in country parishes. "The only thing further to be noticed, is that of the poor's box, whose perforation is humourously covered with a web, where a spider is supposed to have been a long time settled, not finding so good a resting place before ; and it is probable she might have continued there much longer had not the overseer, in private, searched the box, with a view of abstracting its contents. Hence are we given to understand, that dissapation so far prevails as to drive humanity from the heart; and that so selfish are we grown, as to have no feeling for the dis tresses of our fellow-creatures; a matter which, while it disgraces the ¦-,:> '- '*•<»-• '"in I I '^T . "if 1 '^^T- /^ i ¦ h Ulz oCQ Ul _J < ': o -^ u- (fe =) ? I o, O MH Q < Ok ^1 o^ CC goc uh- A '" '-y r " ' VS.V / ,f 'r • I ^ THE OLD CHURCH. 17 Christian, even degrades the man." Adverting to this incident, as also to the cracked commandments, and the creed destroyed by the damps of the church, Mr. Ireland observes: "These three high-wrought strokes of satirical humour, were perhaps never equalled by an exertion of the pencil ; excelled they cannot be." l.sSvW* ^^^''wr-/ P*™"'-L oLd |vj/\|\y"-L£-BotJp ct^^;^tH, p^pORE IJ-H^O. The inscription, denoting the church to have been " beautified " when Thomas Sice and Thomas Horn were churchwardens, was not fabricated for the purpose of ridicule (though it might well have served that purpose, when contrasted with the ruinous appearance of the church), but proves to have been genuine. The following amusing poetical description of the scene is taken from " The Rake's Progress ; or the Humours of Drury Lane " : — " Only themselves and Chambermaid, In Hackney Coach to Church convey'd. Near Oxford Road, O ! Omen dire ! Where Criminals daily expire. The advent'rous Hero leads her on To the fam'd Church of Marybone ; The Clerk who neither said nor sung. The Parson with Lip under hung. Of the true ancient Bull -dog Breed, Cou'd hardly either spell or read. iS MARYLEBONE. The Altar all adorn'd with Bays, The ragged Boy who the Hassock lays, To raise her Foot equal to his. And to receive the Ring in Bliss. Some Hero's Trophies dismal sad, In Tatters waving o'er their Head : The Sword, the Glove, and Coat of Mail, Impendent fast'ned by a Nail ; His Knightly Qualities proclaim: And if they cou'd would speak his Fame For it is a custom due to P s. And every man who Honour bears, To have these Things hang in the Church Which when alive he durst not touch : Below, how much he gave is told. In shining Letters all of Gold ; At which each thoughtless Booby stares. And heeds it much more than his Pray'rs. Th' Apostle's Creed, tho' painted plain. Is quite rubbed out with keeping clean : And the Commands, tho' plain to view, From Top to Bottom are crackt thro' ; A Spider finding out a Place Where he could hope to be at Ease, On the Poor's Box his Web he weav'd. And three Months undisturb'd had liv'd ; And still had liv'd, but th' Overseer, In private, took out all was there.' Hogarth's plate was published in 1735, and the iU-spelt verses, pointing out the vault of the Forset famih', were accurately copied from the original, as -follows : — THESE : PEWES ¦ VNSCRVD : AND : TAN : IN ; SVNDER IN : STONE : THERS : GRAVEN ¦ WHAT : IS : VNDER TO : WIT : A : VALT : FOR : BVRIAL : THERE : IS WHICH : EDWARD : FORSET ; MADE : FOR : HIM : AND : HIS This inscription, the letters of which were in relief wood-work, was preserved with great care, and in the church which was erected in 1742 they were placed in the front of a pew directly opposite the altar. Thomas Smith, writing in 1833, sa\'S : "The first two lines of this Inscription are the originals, the last t\\'0 were restored in 1816, at the expense of the Rev. Mr. Chapman, the Minister. The ^'ault is now occupied by the Portland Family." The ruinous condition of the church became so serious that the structure had to be pulled down. This work was commenced in May, ST. MARYLEBONE CHURCH, BY CHATELAINE, 1750. THE OLD CHURCH. 19 1740, and in less than two years another church was built upon the same site. The new building was opened for service in April, 1742. A writer, speaking of it a few years later, describes it as having been built in as plain a manner as possible, with two series of small arched windows on each side, the only efforts at ornamentation consisting of a vase at each corner, and a turret, wherein hung the bell, at the west end. It was constructed of brick, was an oblong square in plan, and had a gallery on the north, south, and west sides. The altar occupied the east end of the church, and several of the monumental slabs which had decorated the former church, and which are portrayed in Hogarth's engraving, were preserved and transferred to the walls of the new church. The entrance doors to this church were former^ at the east and west ends, but upon its being converted into the Parish Chapel in 1818, by Act of Parliament, some judicious alterations were made : the entrance at the east end was blocked up, that at the west only remaining. The pulpit and reading-desk were separated, and removed near the east wall, and the pews were re-arranged. The organ was placed in the west gallery. The following inscriptions still remain on the exterior wall of the east end of the chapel : — " REBUILT IN Ye YEAR 1741. Walter Lee ] n-u -i. a « [ Churchwardens. John Deschamps ' " Converted into a Parish Chapel, By Act of Parliament, LI. George III. on the IV. Feb. mdcccxvii. The Day of Consecration of the New Church." A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine for July, 1807, gives the following details of the inconvenience arising from the miserably insufficient accommodation for public worshippers in Marylebone : — Sir. . . I was lately called upon to visit a parish church towards the north-west end of the town. It is a very small edifice, much smaller than chapels of ease generally are ; I believe I may say it is the smallest place of worship attached to the Church of England in the metropolis. Small, however, as it is, it is the only church 20 MARYLEBONE. belonging to the largest and most opulent parish in this capital, or in any part of His Majesty's dominions — a parish which on the lowest computation contains 70,000 souls ; there is no font for baptism, no room for depositing the dead bodies on tressels, after the usual way ; no aisle to contain them They are placed in the most indecent manner on the pews. At the time I visited this scandal to our church and nation, there were no fewer than five corpses placed in the manner described ; eight children with their sponsors, &c., to be christened ; and five women to be churched ; all within these con tracted dimensions. A common basin was set upon the communion table for the baptisms, and the children ranged round the altar ; but the godfathers and godmothers in pews, in so confused and disorderly a manner, that it was impossible for the minister to see many of them, or address and require them to make the responses, which the Kubrick directs. Not to mention the danger of the dead and the living being thus confined together, and the peculiarly delicate situation of women immediately after child-birth ; all reverence for the sacrament of baptism ; all solemn and awful reflections from hearing one of the finest services ever composed, and on an occasion the most interest ing to the heart that can be imagined, are entirely done away, and the mind filled with horror and disgust. "A CONSTANT READER." When Regent's Park was laid out it was proposed to build a church in order to remedy this serious defect to some extent. The suggested site was the centre of a circus to be constructed at the end of Portland Place, and the Vestry having received a communication from the Secretary to the Treasury, and believing that there was an intention to confer upon them this site, together with five acres of land to surround their projected building, applied for and obtained an Act of Parliament for the diversion of the New Road, as the Marylebone Road at that time was called. No sooner, however, were their efforts attended with success, than difficulties were interposed and new portions of land pointed out. An Act was, however, passed in the Session of 1810-11, entitled " An Act to enable the Vestrymen of the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone, in the Count}- of Middlesex, to build a new Parish Church, and two or more Chapels ; and for other purposes thereto ;" by which all the former Acts were repealed, and new powers given to the Vestrymen and their successors (who derive their authority from an Act of the 35th of George III.) to purchase lands not exceeding ten acres, for the above purposes ; and in which there was a clause, providing that no sum shall be given for any one site for the said Church or Chapels exceeding ;^6ooo." About the end of 1812, Mr. White, jun., the District Surveyor EPITAPHS. 21 of the Parish, presented the Vestry w-ith a design for a double church, upon a new principle, having for its object the accommodating of a large number of persons, and at the same time admitting a magnificence of exterior ; which design w-as meant as an accompaniment to his father's plan for the improvement of Marylebone Park. Shortly after the delivery of the design al)()\-e mentioned, the Vestry offered premiums, by public ad\ertisemeiit, to architects, as the\- had done in the year 1770, for plans and elevations of a parish church ; but about a fortnight previous to the time of receiving such plans and elevations from the artists, they gave public notice that the designs were not to be proceeded with ; it should appear, on account of the difficulties which had arisen in obtaining the ground which the Lords of the Treasury had proposed to grant them. A triangular piece of ground was, ho-wever, granted to the Parish by the Treasury, on the south side of the New Road, near Nottingham Place, and the Vestry proceeded to erect a chapel capable of containing a considerable number of persons ; the foundation was laid on the 5th of July, 1813, and the fabric was proceeded with nearly to its completion. At that period, ho-wever, the work was stopped, and the Vestry came to a resolution to convert the intended chapel into a parochial church. This occasioned a consider able alteration to be made in the original design, and particularly in regard to the exterior of the building. The principal front, next to the New Road, underwent a very important change, a more extended portico and a steeple were substituted for the former design (which consisted of an Ionic portico of two columns, surmounted by a group of figures and a cupola) ; and other alterations were made in order to give the edifice an appearance more in harmony with the character of a church. EPITAPHS. Among the numerous persons commemorated by inscriptions in old Marylebone Church are the following : — Sir Edmund Douce, of Broughton, Kt., "cup-bearer to Ann of Denmark, Queene to Kynge James, and to Henryetta Maria of France, forty yeares a servant in his place : never maryed. At the writinge hereof he was aged three score and three years, in Anno Dni. 1644." 22 MARYLEBONE. James Gibbs, Esq., " w-hose skill in Architecture appears by his Printed \\'orks as weh as the Buildings directed by him. Among other Legacy's and Charitys, he left One Hundred Pounds towards enlarging this church. He died August 5, 1754, aged 71." Thomas Smith, in his History of Marylebone, appends the following foot-note to this inscription: — "Posterity is indebted for the preservation of this inscription, Sampson Hodgkinson, Esq., an ardent lover of antiquities, and sidesman of the parish church, who, at his own expense, had these letters repainted in 1816 ; but no satisfactory account of the expenditure of the bequest mentioned on the monument can be discovered in the Vestry Minutes. The above gentleman, who has resided in the parish from his infancy, possesses a fund of genuine entertaining biographical anecdote, an excellent collection of minerals, and a curious and splendid library, which in the most kind and obliging nianner is rendered accessible to those who require local in formation." One of the first works upon which this celebrated architect w-as engaged was the church of St. Mary-le-Strand, one of the fifty new churches. It has been justly observed that the delicate beauty of that church is suggestive of the influence of ^^'ren. In 1719, Gibbs added the steeple and the two upper stages to the tower of ^^'ren's church of St. Clement Danes in the Strand. His next ecclesiastical work was " Marybone Chapel," better known as St. Peter's, Vere Street, begun in 1721, by Harley, Earl of Oxford. His chief works, however, were the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, and the building for the Radcliffe Library at Oxford. He was buried, by his ow-n wish, w-ithin the old church of Marylebone, where, on the north wall below the gallery, is yet remaining a simple marble tablet to his memory, with the inscrip tion above referred to. It has been said of him that "his portraits and busts indicate thoughtfulness, penetration, and self-control, but scarcely great power. His architecture shows fine discernment rather than fine invention. His reverence for classic architecture led him to an excessive respect for tradition, but his w-ork is lifted far above the level of mere imitation, and has a distinctive style of its ow-n. He never feU into the vagaries of some of his contemporaries, and made no attempt at Gothic. His good taste may be attributed to his Italian EPITAPHS. 23 training, which also narrowed his art to the mere consideration of fine composition and proportion. Ahhough, as Walpole says, his designs want the harmonious simplicity of the greatest masters of classic archi tecture, he deserves higher praise than Walpole gave, and is now regarded as perhaps the most considerable master of English architecture since Wren." " Near this place are deposited the remains of Signor GuiSEPPE Baretti, a native of Piedmont, in Italy, Secretary for Foreign Correspondence to the Royal Academy of Arts, of London ; Author of several esteemed Works in his own and the Languages of France and England." Baretti was the author of several works, but his name is perhaps best known in connection with the Italian and Spanish Dictionaries which he compiled. " In memory of a life devoted to the Study of Musical Science, and shorten'd by unremitted application and anxiety in the attainment of its object, this marble is inscribed with the name of Stephen Storace, whose professional talents commanded publick applause, whose private virtues ensur'd domestic affection. He died March 16, 1796, aged 34, and is interred under this Church. Silent his lyre, or wak'd to Heav'nly strains, Clos'd his short scene of chequer'd joys and pains, Belov'd and grateful as the notes he sung, His name still trembles on Affection's tongue, Still in our bosoms holds its wonted part, And strikes the chords, which vibrate to the heart. P. H. This marble is put up by a tender mother and an affectionate sister." John Allen, Esq., died on the 17th of March, 1774. " He was Apothecary to the Households of King George the First, Second and Third ; and having employed a long life, and ample Fortune, in Acts of Benevolence and Charity, Liberal to others, Frugal only to himself, he was released from his Labours, and called to his Reward in the ninety- first year of his age. By his Will he gave large Benefactions to his Relations, Friends, and Servants. To Poor Clergymen's Widows and Children. To Poor House-Keepers, and the Charity Children of this Parish, of St. Paul, Covent Garden, and of St. James', M'estminster. 24 MARYLEBONE. To St. George's Hospital, of which he w-as a Governor from the first institution ; and to the Company of Apothecaries, of which he was a most respected member. Providence seems to have protected the life of this excellent man, as an example to show how useful a private person may be w-ith a mind so disposed." " Sacred to the memory of Caroline Watson, Engraver to Her Majesty, who died gth June, 1814. Aged 44. If Taste and Feeling, that vvith goodness dwell. And teach the modest Artist to excel ; If Gratitude, whose voice to Heaven ascends. And seems celestial to surviving Friends ; If charms so pure a lasting Record claim. Preserve, Thou faithful Stone ! a spotless Name ! Meek Caroline ! receive due Praise from Earth For Graceful Talents join'd to genuine worth ! God gave thee gifts, such as to few may fall. Thy Heart, to Him who gave, devoted all. W. Haylev. Erected by John Eardley Wilmot." " Here lies the Body of Humphrey Wanley, Library Keeper to the Right Hon. Robert and Edward, Earls of Oxford, &c. Who died on the 6th day of July, mdccxxvt. In the 55th year of his age." In the crvpt or vault underneath the church are deposited the remains of several members of the Portland family, including William Henry Cavendish Bentinck, Duke of Portland, w-ho died on the 30th of October, 1809. At the w-est end of the church there w-as a monument in lead, gilt, w-ith figures in alto-relievo, to the memory of some children of Thomas Tayler, of Popes, in Hertfordshire, in 1689. When certain alterations were made in the church, in 1816, this curious monument was stolen, probably on account of the metal of which it was composed. Strange to say, no steps appear to have been taken to discover the delinquent. Among the persons w-hose names appear in the burial register of this church are James Figg, prize-fighter, buried the nth of December, 1734; John Vandrebrank, painter, buried the 30th of December, 1739; Edmund Ho}-le, author of a w-ell-know-n treatise on whist, &c., buried the 2ji-d of August, 1769 ; John Michael Rysbrack, sculptor, buried the ST. MARYLEBONE NEW CHURCH. 25 nth of January, 1770; Anthony Relhan, author of works upon medical subjects, buried the nth of October, 1776; James Ferguson, astronomer, &c., buried the 23rd of November, 1776; Allen Ramsay, portrait-painter, buried the i8th of August, 1784; Rev. Charles Wesley, buried the 5th of April, 1788; Wilham Cramer, musician, buried the nth of October, 1799 ; Francis Wheatley, R.A., buried the 2nd of July, 1801 ; George Stubbs, painter and anatomist, buried the i8th of July, 1806. In 1788, Byron, at the age of six weeks, and on the 3rd of May, 1803, Horatia, the daughter of Lord Nelson and Lady Hamihon, were baptized within this church. Francis Bacon, in 1606, w-as married at the old church at Marylebone. ST. MARYLEBONE NEW CHURCH. This church was designed by Thomas Hardwick, a pupil of Sir Wilham Chambers, and the father of Philip Hardwick, R.A., architect of the New Hall at Lincoln's Inn. The portico faces the north, a peculiarity in some measure forced upon the architect by the nature of the ground selected for its site. The north front of the church, which is extremely rich, is well seen from York Gate, Regent's Park. It consists of a handsome winged portico of the Roman Corinthian order, surmounted by a tower. The portico is composed of eight columns, six in front and two in flank, raised on a flight of steps, and sustaining an entablature and pediment. Within the portico are three lintelled entrances, surmounted by cornices and two arched windows. Above the central doorway is a panel, bearing the following inscription : — This Church was erected at the expense of the Parishioners, And consecrated iv. February, MDCCCXVII. The Rev. Archdeacon Heslop, Minister, The Duke of Portland, ) „, , , ^. , „ „ r Churchwardens. Sir James Graham, Bart, J George Allen,) „. , -Sidesmen. John Russell, Above this is a long panel designed for sculpture. The ceiling of the portico is panelled, each panel containing an expanded flower. The 25 MARYLEBONE. wings have no windows on their northern front, the angles are guarded by pilasters, and the flanks are enriched w-ith two columns. The tower is in three stories, and is crowned with a spherical dome. In the interior of the building there are galleries on the sides and north end. Near the altar is a painting of the Holy Family by West, presented by the artist to the parish. The body of the church is 86 feet 6 inches in length, and 6o feet in breadth. It is calculated to accommodate between three and four thousand persons, and cost nearly £8o,ooo for building and furnishing. The church, which is dedicated to St. Mary-le-bone, was restored during the years 1883-84. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. This church, situated in W}'ndham Place, near Bryanston Square, was built from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, and was consecrated on the 7th of January, 1824. The plan of the church is somewhat singular, the principal front facing the south, and having, in its centre, the portico and tower. The building consists of a nave, or body, with side aisles, a portion of the angles having been taken to form vestries and lobbies, whereby the body is made longer than the aisles. The tower is circular in plan ; the elevation is made into three stories. The basement has a doorway with a lintelled architrave, and above it three round-headed windows. A portico, consisting of six Ionic columns and two antas, sustaining an entablature and attic, the latter ornamented with arched panels instead of a balustrade, sweeps round that portion of the tower which projects from the building. Above the parapet the circular tower is continued, and forms a stylobate to the second story, which has eight semi-columns, of the early Corinthian Order, attached to It, with windows having arched heads in the spaces between ; the cornice is finished with a parapet set around w-ith Grecian tiles, and upon this story is a pedestal, still continuing the same form, having four circular apertures for the clock dials, and finished w-ith a cornice sustaining a circular temple pierced with eight arched openings, the piers between which are ornamented w-ith antas, supporting an entablature, cornice, and parapet, the latter set round with Grecian tiles, and crowmed with a conical dome, on the vertex of which is a gilt cross. The CHURCHES. 27 remaining part of this side of the church is formed into two stories by a string course, and finished by a cornice and parapet continued from the portico. The lower story contains, on each side of the portico, three square windows with stone architraves, and the upper story contains the same number of lofty arched windows with architraves of stone round the heads, resting, by way of impost, on a string course. Within the portico there is also an entrance, with a window above it in the wall of the church. The w-est front is in like manner made into two stories, and also vertically into three divisions, the lateral ones containing windows, and finishing with cornices and parapets as before. The central division has three doorways, with lintelled heads in its basement, and three arched windows above. This division is surmounted by a pediment to conceal the roof. The north side of the church only differs from the south in having three more windows in each story, in the space which is occupied by the tower and portico on the side already described. The east front is in three divisions, the side ones similar to the the western ; the central division retires behind the line of the front, and has a square window divided into three compartments by antse, and finished with a pediment. The church is built of brick, except the tow-er, cornices, and other particular parts before enumerated. The interior consists of a nave and side aisles. On each side of the nave are square piers supporting galleries. The altar is elaborately constructed of various ornamental and costly marbles. The great defect in the church is an insufficiency of light. The interior of the church was remodelled in 1874. ALL SOULS' CHURCH, LANGHAM PLACE. The first stone of this church was laid on the i8th of November, 1822, and the consecration took place on the 25th of November, 1824. One of the most remarkable features in connection with the church is the strange effect produced by an acutely tapering spire set upon a circular tower of classic style. The ground on which All Souls' Church stands, formed part of the 28 MARYLEBONE. site of Lord Foley's mansion, which, with several adjacent houses, was removed to complete this end of Regent Street. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. Sir John Soane, R.A., designed this church, which was consecrated in the year 1828. The principal face of the building fronts the south, instead of the west, as is the general rule. Of the first stage of the tower it has been said, " It is no vague or unmerited compliment to the architect to say that a more beautiful piece of ecclesiastical achi- tecture is not to be seen in the whole range of modern churches." The chancel, built from designs of G. Somers Clarke, was added, and the organ removed from the gallery into the chancel, in the year 1878. CHRIST CHURCH, STAFFORD STREET. This church was built from the designs of Philip Hardwick, Esq., and w-as consecrated in 1825. Curiously enough, the portico and prin cipal front are at the east end. Another curious feature in the church is that it consists of two separate portions ; the first, which is entirely of stone, comprises the entrance and tower ; the second portion, which consists of the body of the church, and is entirely appropriated to the congregation. This portion is built of brick, with stone dressings. The portico and pediment are built in the Ionic order. A chancel was constructed, and the east end of the church re arranged, in 1867. ST. PETER'S CHURCH, VERE STREET. St. Peter's Church, formerly known as Oxford Chapel, was erected about 1724, and during the rebuilding of the parish church in- 1741, marriages, baptisms, &c., w-ere performed here. The Duke of Portland was married at this church in 1734. The building is of brick, strength ened with rustic quoins of stone. Upon the pediment at the w-est end of the church there is, carved in stone, a coat of arms, which appears to be those of a descendant of Aubrey De Vere, the last Earl of Oxford of that family. The arms were removed in the year 1832, when the chapel was repaired, and when it was named St. Peter's. Strange as it may seem to our modern notions of ecclesiastical art, if-\t IXACL E4 TRXN'H ,- i.m:RCJL J^-^l liiiL h I.HFUCH.i ll'Ml-,r.T'J?T CHor.Mi n.A.-! or THii-ilT CHORCH cRDum PIJUI OF s'JOims i;amcjl. [jr!l.u8«'; Tiu: dioKjVUjI.. CKQ-LTJ) yLAV or ALL SD17LS Cnmol ohorau PLAS or Tin: piqram^ . c FLuu .¦ rir jfl/vu X-i,Xr\ ¦S' FiSCP..i5 OLD GR0C3D FLAT^ O? STFAS-CRAS coo Cm/RCIL . fe I. ilfai iift liROrfTD PL-iN rir SCOTCH CULiilCB, REOcyr syi AR>. cn mtj, I y ir»:yTiiB I CHURCHES, &c., IN MARYLEBONE AND ST. PANCRAS. CHAPELS. 29 this chapel, previously to the erection of the new churches, was con sidered one of the most beautiful structures in the metropolis. ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, GREAT PORTLAND STREET. This church, originally known as Portland Chapel, was erected in 1766, on the site of Marylebone Basin, which was formerly a reservoir of water for the supply of that part of the metropolis, but had been disused for many jears. B)- some unaccountable neglect, this chapel was left unconsecrated from the time of its erection until the end of the year 1831, when (it having, in common with the Rectory of the Parish, passed into the hands of the Crown) the ceremony of consecra tion was performed, and it was dedicated to St. Paul. The church was restored in iJ ST. JOHN'S WOOD CHAPEL. Architecturally this church has not many striking features. It was built after the designs of Thomas Hardwick, and consecrated in the year 1814. The monumental tablets placed against the walls inside the church comprise many beautiful specimens of modern sculpture by the most celebrated masters of the age. Among them are the productions of Chantrey, Behnes, Wyatt, and various other eminent sculptors. In the vaults beneath this church are deposited the remains of a great number of Nvell-known persons, among whom is the wife of Benjamin West, P.R.A. In the burial ground attached to this church (now converted into a public garden) is the grave, among many others, of Joanna South cott. It was estimated in 1833 that about forty thousand persons had been buried in this cemetery, and the list of notable characters included in that number is much too long to give in this volume. DISSENTING CHAPELS. There are several important and old-established Dissenting Chapels in Marylebone, but we have no space for even a brief account of them. In Little Titchfield there was a place of worship, called Providence Chapel, frequented by a congregation styhng themselves " Independents," 30 MARYLEBONE. and under the ministry of Mr. Huntingdon. This chapel was burnt down on the i8th July, 1810, upon which occasion the minister is reported to have observed, that " Providence having allowed the chapel to be destroyed. Providence might rebuild it, for he would not " — and in consequence, the site was occupied by a timber yard. FRENCH CHAPEL. About the middle of the 17th century there was a French Chapel at Marylebone. It was probably only of a small size, conformably with the sparse population of Marylebone at that time. There seems to have been some doubt as to the exact spot it actually occupied, which is supposed to have been somewhere in Marylebone Lane or High Street. It is recorded that the chapel was founded in 1656, in which year Bernard Perny and Michel Eloy Nollet were the officiating ministers. In the early days of their existence, the Marylebone Gardens were called the " French Gardens," in consequence, it is said, of their con tiguity to the Marylebone French Chapel. The site of the Marylebone Gardens is well knowm : it is now occupied by Devonshire Place and Street and Beaumont Street, and the adjacent locality, and if the French Chapel adjoined or stood near those gardens, it must have been some little distance to the north of Marylebone Lane. (See History of the Protestant Refugees settled in England. By J. S. Burn. p. 153.) The site of the chapel is pretty clearly defined in a plan of the Marylebone Gardens, which is reproduced in connection with the account of that establishment in the present volume. " The vast number of French Protestants who fled into England on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, led to a large increase in the number of French churches. This was especially the case in London, which was the principal seat of the immigration. It may serve to give the reader an idea of the large admixture of Huguenot blood in the London population, when we state that about the beginning of last century, at which time the population of the Metropolis was not one fourth of what it is now, there were no fewer than thirty-five French Churches in London and the suburbs. Of these eleven were in Spitalfields, showing the preponderance of French settlers in that quarter." — Smiles. CHAPTER in. MARYLEBONE GARDENS, TAVERNS, &c. Marylebone Gardens. — The French Gardens. — Illuminations, fireworks, and music, at Marylebone Gardens. — "The Forge of Vulcan." — Dr. William Kenrick's lectures. — The Marylebone Spa. — James Figg and "The Boarded House" — Bowling Greens. — "The Rose of Normandy." — "The Queen's Head and Artichoke." — "The Yorkshire Stingo." — "The Old Farthing Pie House." — " The Jew's Harp." MARYLEBONE GARDENS. HERE is evidence of the existence of public pleasure gardens at Marylebone at an early date. Pepys writes in 1668 : — " Then we abroad to Marrowbone, and there walked in the garden ; the first time I ever w-as there, and a pretty place it is." The gardens, which occupied the ground where Beaumont Street, Devonshire Street, and Devonshire Place now are, seem to have been known at first (as was mentioned in the last chapter) as " The French Gardens," on account, as some say, of their having been cultivated by French refugees, who had a chapel close by. When the gardens were first named the Marylebone Gardens, and definitely set apart for the use of pleasure-seekers, does not clearly appear. The probability is, however, that they gradually assumed that character. An advertisement in the " Daily Courant," of the 29th of May, 1718, reads :— " This is to give notice to ^^^ all persons of quality, ladies and gentlemen, that there , ® p|^ having been illuminations in Marybone bowling-greens Majesty's birthday every year since his happy accession to the the same is (for this time) put off until Monday next, and will on his throne 32 MARYLEBONE. be performed with a consort of musick, in the middle green, by reason there is a ball in the garden at Kensington with illuminations, and at Richmond also." This notice goes to show that the bowling-greens at Marylebone had for a few years, at least, been used for the celebration of public events. A distinct advance towards improvement of the condition and appointments of the place was made in the years 1738-9, when Mr. Gough, the proprietor, enlarged the gardens, built an orchestra, and issued silver tickets at tw-elve shillings each for the season, each ticket admitting two persons. It is not generally known that, previous to the year 1737, this " fashionable " place of amusement w-as entered freely by all ranks of people ; but the company becoming more select, Mr. Gough determined to charge one shilling for entrance money for a lady and gentleman, for which the party paying was to receive an equivalent in viands. Any single person was admitted upon a payment of sixpence. The gardens were open from six to ten in the evening at first, but the hour for opening was afterwards altered to five o'clock. An advertisement in a con temporary newspaper humbly requests that the gentlemen will not smoke on the w-alks. The plan of the Marylebone Gardens here inserted has been reproduced from a valuable MS. plan in the Grace coUection at the British Museum. The following are the references to the numbers marked upon it. The house called The Rose of Normandy. The field entrance. Old Church (French). Orchestra. Burlettas, &c., without front. 2 3 5 6. Fireworks. In the year 1740, an organ, buih by Bridge, was added to the musical attractions of Marylebone Gardens, and later on illuminations and artificial fireworks formed a frequent and popular item in the entertain ments. On July 27th, 1769, upon the occasion of Mr. Forbes's benefit, the following list of fireworks was advertised to be exhibited : — "THE ORDER OF FIRING. "First Division.— I. Four Sky Rockets. 2. Two illuminated, brilliant, and changeable wheels'. 3. Two Tourballoons. 4. One large Range of Chinese Trees bearing white Flowers. 5. Two Furious Wheels changing into Wheat- sheafs. 6. Two Pots d'Airgrets with Chinese Jerbs. Fields PLAN OF MARYLEBONE GARDENS, 1756. MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 33 "Second DX'ision.— 7. Four Skyrockets. 8. Two Tourballoons. g. One large brilliant Wheel, with blue, yellow, and white lights. lo. Two Pyramids of Roman Candles, ir. Two Line Rocl;ets. 12. Two large Diamond Pieces of brilliant Fountains, five painted Stars, and a large Sun at the Top of each. "Third Division.— 13. Four Sky Rockets. 74 Two Tourballoons. 15. One regulating Piece of three Mutations, first a large brilliant wheel illuminated. 2nd, A Sun of Brilliants and Royonet Fire, 3rd, Six Branches representing Wheat Ears. 16. One large Gothic Arch, superbly illuminated with Lances, and Variety of other Decorations. 17. One large brilliant Sun wi'h a Star of eight Points in the Centre. 18. Two Pots d'.Virgrets with large Chinese Jerbs." These elaborate fireworks w-ere sent off at the conclusion of a concert of vocal and instrumental music, and as only half-a-crown w-as charged for admission, it cannot be said that the entertainment was extravagantly expensive. So many rough characters were attracted towards Mar3-lebone Gardens, that the journey back to London through the country roads was attended with considerable risk of robbery and violence, and provision for the safety of visitors was made, as appears by the following : — " Mrs. Vincent's night. At Marybone Gardens, on Thursday, July 3rd (1766), w-ill be a Concert of Vocal and Instrumental Music. The vocal parts by Mr. Lowe, Mr. Raworth, Mr. Taylor, Miss Davis, and Mrs. Vincent. With several new Songs. And (by particular Desire) after the Concert wiU be a Ball. Tickets Tw-o Shillings and Sixpence. " To render it more agreeable to the Company there will be a Platform laid down in the great \\'alk w-hich w-ill be entirel}- covered in. " There wiU be a Horse Patrol for the City Road to and from the Gardens, to protect those Friends who intend honouring Mrs. Vincent with their Company. " Tickets to be had of Mrs. Vincent, at her lodgings, at Mr. More's, Grocers, next to the Savoy Gate in the Strand, and at the Bar of the Gardens." Music w-as one of the chief attractions of the gardens. Handel's name is closely associated with them, as are those of Dr. Arne, Webbe, Richter, Hook, Bartholomew-, Abel, Dibdin, and Banister, and other popular singers and actors of the da}-. In 1744 Miss Scott was a singer at Marylebone Gardens ; Mr. Knerler played the violin, and Mr. Ferrand played an instrument caUed the D 34 MARYLEBONE. bariton. In 1751 Mr. John Trusler was sole proprietor of the gardens, and, in 1758, his son produced the first burletta that was performed there, entitled " La Serva Padrona." The next year, 1759, Mr. Trusler, who appears to have been possessed of ingenious business capacities, opened his gardens for breakfasting, and his daughter. Miss Trusler, made the cakes. The following year this enterprising lady developed a new branch of her business. The following notice w-as publich- given in the news papers : — " Mr. Trusler's daughter begs leave to inform the Nobility and Gentry that she intends to make fruit-tarts during the fruit season ; and hopes to give equal satisfaction as w-ith the rich cakes, and almond cheesecakes. The fruit ^vill always be fresh gathered, having great quantities in the garden ; and none but loaf sugar used, and the finest Epping butter. Tarts of a twelvepenny size will be made every day from I to 3 o'clock ; and those who want them of larger sizes, to fill a dish, are desired to speak for them, and send their dish or the size of it, and the cake shall be made to fit. " The almond cheesecakes w-ill be always hot at one o'clock as usual ; and the rich seed and plum cakes sent to an}- part of the town, at 2s. 6d. each. Coffee, tea, and chocolate, at any time of the day ; and fine Epping butter may also be had." A good idea of the general arrangement and appearance of the Marvlebone Gardens is presented in the accompanying plate, which is reproduced from an engraving published in the year 1761. It represents the gardens probably in their fullest splendour. The central part of the plate exhibits the longest w-alk, with regular rows of young trees on either side, the stems of which received the irons for the lamps at about the height of seven feet from the ground. On either side this walk w-ere latticed alco\'es ; on the right hand of the w-alk, according to this view-, stood the bow--fronted orchestra with balustrades, supported by c jlumns. The roof was extended considerabh- o\-er the erection, to keep the musicians and singers free from rain. On the left hand of the walk was a room, possibl}- intended for balls and suppers. The figures in this view are all well drawn and characteristic of the time. In 1763, the gardens w-ere taken b\- the famous Mr. T. Low-e, who engaged Mrs. Vincent, Mrs. Lampe, Junr., Miss Ma\-s, Miss Hyatt, THE GRAND WALK, MARYLEBONE GARDENS, 1755. MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 35 Miss Catley and Mr. Squibb, as singers. Upon the opening of the gardens in May, 1763, the following musical address w-as sung : — " Mr, Lowe. Now the summer advances, and pleasure removes. From the smoke of the town to the fields and the groves, Permit me to hope, that your favours again May smile, as before, on this once happy plain. Miss Catley. Tho' here no rotunda expands the wide dome, No canal on its borders invites you to roam ; Yet nature some blessings has scattered around, .\nd means to improve may hereafter be found. Miss Miles. On spots as uncouth, from foundations as mean, Some structures stupendous exalted have been ; Hence started Vauxhall, and Ranelagh grew. From rudeness to grandeur, supported by you. Miss Smith. The barrenest heath may by art be improv'd : And rivers diverted, and mountains remov'd : ' Do you then the sunshine of favour display. And culture shall soon the glad summons obey. Miss Catley. Meanwhile, ev'ry effort to please ye we'll try ; Miss Miles. Good music, good wine, with each other shall vie. Miss Smith. To gain your esteem 's the full scope of our plan, Mr. Lowe. And we'll strive to deser^-e it as well as we can. Chorus. To gain your esteem 's the full scope of our plan. And we'll strive to deserve it as well as we can." One of the many popular sights at Mar}-lebone Gardens was Signor Torre's representation of the Forge of Vulcan. When the ordinary fireworks were concluded, a curtain, which covered the base of the representation of Mount Etna, rose and discovered Vulcan leading the Cyclops to work at their forge ; the fire blazed, and Venus entered with Cupid at her side, who begged them to make for her son those arrow-s which are said to be the causes of love in the human breast ; they assented and the mountain immediately appeared in eruption, with lava 36 MARYLEBONE. rushing down the precipices. This exhibition proved highh- interesting to the public, and was often represented. Another popular attraction was a course of lectures, delivered in 1774, by Dr. William Kenrick, author of numerous books and pamphlets. They were given in the Theatre for Burlettas, which -vvas called the School of Shakespeare, as the lectures dealt mainly with Shakespeare, and consisted, to a large extent, of recitations from certain portions of his works. The character of Sir John Falstaff was received with much applause by the crowded audiences which were attracted by Dr. Kenrick's declamation. Dr. Kenrick used to hold his " School of Shakespeare," as it was called, also in the Apollo at the Devil Tavern, Temple Bar, and he printed an introduction to his lectures in the form of a pamphlet. In 1775, Mr. George Saville Cary gave lectures on mimicr}-, in which he introduced, " A Dialogue between Small Cole and Fiddle-stick; Billy Bustle, Jerry Douglas, and Patent; w-ith the characters of Jerr}- Sneak in Richard the Third, Shylock in Macbeth, Juno in her Cups, Momus in his Mugs, and the Warwickshire Lads ; concluding with a dialogue between Billy Buckram and Aristophanes, in which Nick Nightingal, or the Whistler of the Woods, made his appearance in the character of a Crow\ In 1774, the public press made serious complaints against the management of the gardens for having demanded five shillings entrance money to a fete champetre, which consisted of nothing more than a few taw-dry festoons and extra lamps. There were indications that public favour was declining; the gardens, after a long period of popularity, were becoming less and less appreciated, and the roughs, who assembled there, tore down the decorations, and injured the stage. Moreover, the population around the district w-as rapidly increasing, and so much uneasiness arose in the minds of the inhabitants lest some accident should be occasioned by the fireworks, that complaints were frequently made to the. magistrates. The result was that Marylebone Gardens were finally suppressed in 1778, and the site was let to builders. The following is an extract from a document which was formerly in the possession of Sampson Hodgkinson, Esq., who allowed an extract to be made for Thomas Smith's " History of the Parish of St. Marylebone," in which work it was published in 1833. It is a deed of assignment made by Thomas Lowe, conveying his property in Marylebone Gardens MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 2,7 to certain trustees, for the benefit of his creditors, on the 3rd of February, in the 9th of George the Third, viz., 1769. By Indenture bearing the date of the 30th day of August, 1763, made between Robert Long, of the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone, otherwise Marybone, Esq., and the said Thomas Lowe, all that Messuage then or then before cahed the Rose Tavern, situate and being in the Parish of St. Marylebone aforesaid, with the tap-house thereunto belonging, and also a Room or Building known by the name of the French Chapel, together with a stable or brewhouse adjoining, or near to the same, and also all that other Messuage, situate in the same parish, then before in the possession of 'Daniel Gough, on the East side of the town of Saint Marylebone, alias Marybone, fronting towards the W^est on the Road leading to Marybone Church, and North on a Gateway or passage leading from the said Road into Marybone Gardens. And also all that great garden and the several pieces or parcels of garden ground and w-alks to the said Messuages or either of them belonging, w-hich had been lately used therewith by the then late Tennants of the said Messuages in the carrying on a Musical Entertainment at Marybone Gardens, and also the orchestra, and all Rooms and Buildings erected, built and set upon the said pieces and parcels of ground or any part thereof, and also the organ then standing in the said orchestra, and also a harpsicord and all the musical books and music then being on the said premises, and used in carrying on the said musical entertainment, and all boxes, benches, tables, lamps, lamp-posts, and all other fixtures, belonging to the said Messuages or tenements, pieces or parcels of ground which w-ere the property of the said Robert Long, and all the passage lights, profits or commodious advantages appointed to the tenants of the said messuages or said pieces of ground belonging or therewith held and enjoyed, except reserving to the said Robert Long, all that small piece of garden ground and a small tenement built thereon, then in the possession of Mr. Flanders, and another small piece of ground with a shed or tenement built thereon, late in the possession of Mr. Claxton, but then unlet, and also another small piece of ground with a tenement or shed built thereon, then in the possession of Mr. Gray Cutler, and also another piece of ground with a tenement built thereon, then in 38 MARYLEBONE. the possession of Mr. Rysbrack, statuary, all which excepted premises had been parted off from the said Great Garden, and had been held and enjoyed separately from the same. And also, except and alw-ays reserving to the said Robert Long and his tenants free liberty to pass and repass in through and from the public walks of the said great gardens at all convenient times to the said excepted premises. To Hold the same (except as before excepted) unto the said Thomas Lowe, his Executors and Assigns, from the Feast Day of St. Michael the Archangel, next ensuing, for and during the full end and term of 14 }-ears from thence, and fully to be compleat and ended, at and under the }-early rent of £170 of lawful money of Great Britain payable quarterly, in manner therein mentioned. And on the 31st of August, James Dalling, Robert Wright of the Parish of West Ham, in the County of Essex, Coal Merchant, and Francis Walsingham, together w-ith the said Thomas Lowe, became bound to the said Thomas Long in the penal sum of five hundred pounds conditioned for the payment of the rent, and performances of the contract. This property w-as subsequently, in 1768, assigned to George Forbes and Andrew Mitchie, Trustees, for the benefit of the creditors. In the debtor and creditor accounts the following items appear : — Expenses. To Mr. Hook, the Music Master Mr. Lowe's weekly allowance ... To Advertisements and Waiters To Mr. Medhurst, for Chickens To the Patrol To Master Brown To Miss Davies To Mr. Taylor To the Gardener. To Candles To W^ashing To One Hundred Lemons To Water Cakes... £ s. d. 4 4 0 2 2 0 I 6 10 5 8 0 0 16 0 4 4 0 3 3 0 2 2 0 0 9 0 3 0 0 0 18 10 0 10 0 0 6 0 MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 39 To Beer To Servants' Wages To the Band of Music To laying out the Books and attending the Music To the Doorkeepers To attending the Organ... To Miss Davies ... To Mr. Phillips To Mr. Taylor To Mr. Thomas, for the Organ To 12 Doorkeepers and 2 Patrols To the Doorkeepers for 6 Sundays To the Constable for 4 Sundays To Servant's Wages To one Advertisement To Writing Music To one Watchman To the Music Licence To Mr. Wakefield The expenses of the establishment from November 12th, 1767, to January 31st, 1769, were £1534 ns. gd. Receipts. £ s. d. By received in part of the expenses of Mr. Brown's Benefit By ditto Benefit of the Band of Music By ditto Mr. Taylor's Benefit By ditto Miss Davis's Benefit ... By Dr. Arne, for Wine... By one Ticket The receipts at the door do not appear to have exceeded on any one night ^^15, but the receipts at the bar frequently exceeded £s^, and on one occasion, the 8th of September, 1768, they amounted to £6^ 6s. 4d. THE MARYLEBONE SPA. This valuable spring was discovered in Marylebone Gardens in the winter of 1773-4, in the course of a diligent search, made under the £ s. d. 4 4 0 I 8 0 27 13 8 0 9 0 2 19 6 0 7 6 2 2 0 2 2 0 I 8 0 0 6 0 4 3 0 0 6 0 0 4 0 I 8 6 0 5 0 I 13 6 0 I 0 I 4 9 0 12 0 10 10 0 9 4 0 13 2 6 6 8 6 2 H 6 I II 6 40 MARYLEBONE. direction of the Surveyor of the City of London, after some wells situated about Mar}lebone, and under the jurisdiction of the City. Many ancient subterraneous avenues \vere found. Upon a careful examination, the medicinal \-irtues of the spring w-ere found to be likely to be highly useful in nervous, scorbutic and other disorders. The waters were supposed to strengthen the stomach, and promote a good appetite and a good digestion. The company were admitted ever}- morning immediately after six o'clock, and tea, coffee and other refreshments were obtainable at the bar. J.\MES FIGG AND "THE BOARDED HOUSE." This celebrated prize-fighter, who long bore the palm of victory from all competitors, and who w-as extolled by Captain Godfrey in his treatise of the science of defence, as the greatest master of the art he had ever seen, was a Marylebone celebrit}-. He w-as for many }'ears proprietor of "The Boarded House," in Marylebone Fields, near Oxford Road, or Oxford Street, as it is now- designated. Here, the " Atlas of the Sw-ord," as Figg w-as called, frequently exhibited his own skill, and at other times made matches between the most celebrated masters or mistresses of the art, for the noble science of defence w-as not confined to the male sex. \\'e find Mrs. Stokes, the famous city championess, challenging the Hibernian heroines to meet her at Mr. Figg's. Lysons quotes a writer in Mist's Journal of the date, November 20th, 1725, w-ho says: — "We hear that the gentlemen of Ireland have been long picking out an Hibernian heroine to match Mrs. Stokes the bold, a famous city cham pioness ; there is now- one arrived here, who, by her make and stature, seems mighty enough to eat her up. However, Mrs. Stokes, being true English blood (and remembering some late reflections that w-ere cast upon her husband by some of that country volk), is resolved to see her out vi ct armis. This being like to prove a notable and diverting engagement, it is not doubted but abundance of gentlemen wih crowd to Mr. Figg's amphitheatre on \\'ednesda}-, the 24th instant, on purpose to see this uncommon performance." The following are copies of broadsides announcing exhibitions of skill at Figt:"s establishment : — THE QUEEN'S HEAD AND ARTICHOKE, 1819. {Described on Page 45.) JAMES FIGG AND "THE BOARDED HOUSE." 41 " At the Bear-Garden in Maryow-bone-Fields, the Backside of Soho Square, at the Boarded House, A Tryal of Skill to he perform'd, this present Monday, the 17th of May, 1714, hy ttvo Masters of the Nohle Science of Defence, heginning at Three of the clock precisely. " I, Jfohn Terrywcsi, Master of the said Science, who am Obliged not to Challenge any Man : But the Gentlemen present at the last Battel, desiring me and Mr. John Parkes, of Coventry, to Exercise the usual weapons ; We, to Oblige them, and for the Diversion of others, will not fail (God willing) to Exercise the several Weapons following, viz. : — Back-sword, \ I Sword and Gauntlet, SwoRD AND Dagger, I J Single Falchion, And Sword and Buckler, j [ Case of Falchions. Vivat Regina." "At the Boarded House in Marylebone Fields, to-morrow being Thursday, the Sth day of August (1723), will be performed an extraordinary Match at Boxing, between Joanna Heyfield, of Newgate Market, basket-woman, and the City Championess, for Ten Pounds Note. There has not been such a battle for these 20 years past, and as these two Heroines are as brave and as bold as the ancient Amazons, the spectators may expect abun dance of Diversion and Satisfaction from these Female Com batants. They will mount at the usual hour, and the Company will be diverted with Cudgel-playing till they mount. Note a scholar of Mr. Figg, that challenged Mr. Stokes last summer, fights Mr. Stokes's Scholar 6 Bouts at Staff, for Three Guineas ; the first Blood wins. The weather stopt the Battle last Wednes day." From the former of the two broadsides just quoted, it appears that the place was known as the " Bear Garden," doubtless on account of the cruel sport of bear-baiting and tiger-baiting ^vhich took place there. Bear-baiting and tiger-baiting were exhibited at Figg's Amphi theatre. A bull-fight was once advertised to be performed by a "grimace" Spaniard, who had for some time amused and delighted the people of St. Pancras and Marvlebone by making ugly faces, and a great 42 MARYLEBONE. company was drawn together by the novelty of the proposed entertain ment. A portrait of Figg is introduced by Hogarth in the second plate of his " Rake's Progress." Figg died in 1734, and was buried at Marylebone on the nth of December. After his death the celebrated Broughton occupied an amphitheatre near the same spot, and was for many years the hero of bruisers, until at last he w-as beaten on his ow-n stage by Slack, a butcher. The victor w-as supposed to have gained £600 by the result of the battle ; and the sums won and lost b}- the bye-standers were to a great amount, the house being crow-ded with amateurs, some of -whom were of \-er}- high rank. Not long afterwards a stop was put to all public exhibitions of boxing and prize-fighting by Act of Parliament. BOWLING GREENS. In a map of the Mar}-lebone Estate in 1708, there are two bowling greens shown, one of which was situated near the top of High Street, and abutting on the grounds of the old manor house. The other was situated at the back of that house ; the street afterwards called Bowling Green Lane having formed its southern boundary. In connection w-ith the first mentioned green there w-as a noted tavern and gaming house called the Rose Tavern, much frequented by persons of the first rank. It afterwards grew into much disrepute. The Mar}lebone Bow-ling Green is celebrated by the poet Gay, who makes it the scene of Capt. Macheath's debauches, in " The Beggar's Opera." This is probably the place alluded to by Lady Mary Wortley Montague in this line : — " Some Dukes at Marybone bowl time away." It is also in all probability the tavern which is meant by Pennant, w-ho, in his account of London, when speaking of the Duke of Buckingham's minute description of the house, afterwards the Queen's palace, and his manner of living there, says : — " He has omitted his constant visits to the noted gaming-house, at Marybone ; the place of assemblage of all the infamous sharpers of the time ; " to whom his grace always gave a dinner at the conclusion of the season ; and his parting toast w-as, " May as many of us as remain unhanged next spring, meet here again." The THE ROSE OF NORMANDY. 43 " London Gazette," of January nth, 1691, mentions Long's bowhng- green at the "Rose" at Marylebone, half a mile distant from London. A description of the bowling-green attached to the tavern called the Rose of Normandy in 1659, states that the outside was bounded by a square brick wall, set w-ith fruit trees, and there were gravel walks over two hundred paces long and seven paces broad. The circular w-alk was nearly five hundred paces in circuit, and six broad ; the centre was square ; and the bowling-green w-as one hundred and twelve paces one w-ay, and eighty-eight paces another. All these walks were double set w-ith quickset hedges, kept in excellent order, and indented in imitation of battlements. A w-riter in 1699 says : — " Marybone is the chief place about town, but, for all its greatness and pre-eminence, it lies under the shrewd suspicion of being guilty of sharping and crimping, as well as the rest." Both of these bowling-greens w-ere incorporated with the celebrated Marylebone Gardens. THE ROSE OF NORMANDY. Little seems to be definitely knowm as to the origin of this sign, but the house is supposed to have been established early in the 17th century, and when Thomas Smith wrote his history of Marylebone (1833), it w-as the oldest inn then existing in the parish. It was in its early days a detached building connected with the bowling-green at the back. The entrance to the house was by a descent of a flight of steps, the level of the street having been raised. At several dates the house had been repaired, but the original form of the exterior was preserved, and the staircases and ballusters were coeval with the erection of the building. There was, at the back of the house, an extensive yard on the level with the ground , ,. floor, which was laid out as a skittle ground. It is extremely probable that this was the skittle ground made famous by Nancy Dawson's association with 44 MARYLEBONE. it. The celebrated dancer and actress, of Drury Lane and Covent Garden fame, is supposed to have been born near Clare Market. At an earl}- age she lost her mother, and was forced to lodge with an old Irish ANoman at Broad Street, St. Giles's. At the age of fourteen she lived in a cellar in Drury Lane with a sweep and his w-ife, and while quite a }oung girl Nancy Daw-son is said to ha\-e been emplo}-ed in setting up skittles at a skittle-alle}- \'^f- "f- ^lo^' t-{E«i *iio ,A^i^T I c >|o i\e- — _-¦=-- execute the first part of his coach-painting. The lane w-as not any public road, only for foot-passengers, as it led into the fields towards Chalk Farm, Jews' Harp House, Hampstead, &c. On the other side the pahng, was the lane and a skittle-ground belonging to the house. It was surrounded at the back and one side by an artificial stone manufactory, and several small houses with gardens attached to them. 46 MARYLEBONE. THE YORKSHIRE STINGO. Opposite Lisson Grove and on the south side of Marylebone Road, there used to be a very celebrated public-house know-n as the York shire Stingo. From this house the first pair of London omnibuses started on July 4th, 1829, running to the Bank and back. They w-ere constructed to carry twenty-two passengers all inside. The fare was one shilhng, or sixpence for half the distance, together with the luxury of yol^^sHl'^^ r"Ti'<-^ ^ FM<.Thiris pip H'^'JpP- n^^ by a road going east and west, w'here the " New Road " was afterwards made. The Green Lane extended from what is now the south end of Berner's Street towards Primrose Hill, and the boundary line between Marylebone and St. Pancras seems pretty nearly to indicate its old course. The exact site of the Old Farthing Pie House is represented by the Green Man, near Portland Road Railway Station. THE JEW'S HARP. This public house, which was formerly in Regent's Park, w-as perhaps chiefly remarkable for its odd sign — "Jew's Harp," or "The Jew-'s Trump." It was often called the " Jew Trump," and there is reason to believe that the name is a corruption of some foreign word. In the low Dutch a tromp is a rattle for children. Another explanation which is more ingenious than probable, is that the house was called 48 MARYLEBONE. " The Jew's Harp " because the place where that instrument w-as played was between the teeth. The house was situated in old Marylebone Park, about a quarter of a mile north of Portland Place, but when the grounds were laid out for the formation of Regent's Park, it was removed further eastward. It was long known and resorted to, by holiday parties, on account of its bowery tea-garden, and thickly-foliaged arbours, and acquired consider able fame for the excellence of its entertainment and accommodation. '181 A curious anecdote is told of the Speaker Onslow in connection w-ith this public house. For the purpose of relaxation from the man}- cares of his office, this celebrated man was in the habit of passing his evenings at "The Jew's Harp," at that time a retired countr}- public house. He dressed himself in plain attire, and preferred taking his seat in the chimney corner of the kitchen, where he took part in the vulgar jokes and ordinary concerns of the landlord, his family and customers. He OLD INNS. 49 continued this practice for a year or two, and much ingratiated himself with his host and his family, who, not knowing his name, called him " the gentleman," but, from his familiar manners, treated him as one of themselves. It happened, however, that one day the landlord was walking along Parliament Street, when he met the Speaker in state, going up with an address to the throne ; and looking narrowly at the chief personage, he was astonished and confounded at recognising the features of the gentleman, his constant customer. He hurried home and communicated the extraordinary intelligence to his wife and family, all of whom were disconcerted at the liberties which at different times they had taken with so important a personage. In the evening, Mr. Onslow came as usual, with his holiday face and manners, and prepared to take his seat, but found everything in a state of peculiar preparation, and the manners of the landlord and his wife changed from indifference and familiarity to form and obsequiousness. The children were not allowed to climb upon him and pull his -wig, as heretofore, and the servants were kept at a distance. He, however, took no notice of the change, but, finding that his name and rank had by some means been discovered, he paid his reckoning, civilly took his departure, and never visited the house afterwards. It has been said that this was the only public house with the sign of " The Jew's Harp " in London, but that was incorrect, as there was another in Islington. ^M M K^^^^l CHAPTER IV. MARYLEBONE: MODERN HISTORY. Regent's Park. — Old Marylebone Park. — 'Willan's Farm. — Other Farms. — Construction of "the Regent's Park." — Proposed Triumphal Arch. — St. Dunstan's -Villa. — Regent's Canal. — St. John's -Wood.— Lisson Green. — Lisson Fields. — The New Road.— Cavendish Square. — Portman Square. — Manchester Square. — Dorset Square.- Blandford Square.— Bryanston and Montague Squares. REGENT'S PARK. LD Marylebone Park, having been disparked for some years, and known generally as Marylebone Farm and Fields, Mr. White, architect to the Duke of Portland, in the year 1793, exhibited to Mr. Fordyce, the Surveyor-General, a "plan for the improve ment of Mary-le-bone Park, which attracted his attention, and which he noticed in his report to the Lords of the Treasury, who directed that the necessary steps should be taken, and that a reward, not exceeding ;^i,ooo, should be offered to the successful author of a plan for the improvement of the whole estate. A copy of the Treasury Minute, dated July 2nd, 1793, was communicated to Mr. White, with six engraved plans of the estate, which induced him to devote much attention to the improvement thereof; and he made several plans, which are noticed in the First Report of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests and Land Revenues. The following are the names of tenants and fields, and the sizes of the fields on the estate caUed Marylebone Park Farm, taken by MARYLEBONE PARK FARM. 51 order of the Lords of the Treasury, under the direction of John Fordyce, Esq., by G. Richardson, in 1794. Farm in the possession of Mr. Thomas Willan, and his Under Tenants. I. Farm-house, Barn, Stables, Cowhouses, Yards, Garden, &c. 2. Small Tenements, Sheds, Yards, and Gardens, let to divers Tenants 3. Ditto 4. The Six Closes 5. Butcher's Field 6. The Long Mead ... 7. Long Forty Acres 8. Short Forty Acres Harris's Field Hill Field Gravel Pit Field Part of Home Seven Acres Remainder of Ditto Bell Field Pightle, let to Thomas Hammond Copal Varnish Manufactory and Garden, let to Mr. Alexander Wall Cottages, Sheds, Yards, and Gardens, let to divers Tenants The Five Acres Paddock, let to Thomas Hammond White House Field 9- 10. II.12.13- 14. 15-16. 17-18. 19. 20. Total A. R. P. 2 0 36 I 0 8 0 2 25 72 I 37 27 I 28 24 3 36 34 0 11 14 2 17 34 I 32 18 2 14 20 2 32 6 3 32 2 0 25 9 2 32 I I 17 2 0 8 4 0 18 I I 18 9 0 6 288 0 35 Farm in the possession of Mr. Richard Kendall, and his Under Tenants. A. R p. 21. Part of Saltpetre Field ... ... ... ... 12 3 23 22. Ditto, let to John White, Esq. ,.. 23.*. Ditto Ditto 23. J. Late part of the Five Acres, Ditto 24. Garden let to George Stewart, Esq. I I 12 0 3 16 I I 24 0 2 12 52 25- 26. 27. 28. 29-30. 31- 32- 33- 34- 35- 36.37- 38. 39- 40. 41. 42. 43- MARYLEBONE. House, Garden, and Shed, Ditto Dupper Field Garden let to Sir Richard Hill, Bart. Farm-house, Cow-houses, Yards, and Cow-lair Cow-houses, Sheds, &c. ... Tenements, Yards, Gardens, &c. White House Field Bell Field White Hall Field Rugg Moor and Lodge Field, in one Total A. R. p. O I 20 9 I i8 O I 7 I 2 19 0 I II 2 3 24 8 o 32 15 I 35 20 3 36 57 0 12 Farm in the occupation of and his Under Tenants. Mr. The Nether Paddock Pound Field The Thirt}' Acres The Twenty-Nine Acres ... Home Field, Farm-house, Cow-house, &c. Six Cottages and Gardens, with small Sheds, let to Mr. Richard Holdbrook Total 133 2 21 time A. R. p. 16 I 16 22 I 30 34 0 12 34 1 21 10 I 9 0 I 2 117 3 10 Abstract. Mr. White's Garden Small triangular piece on the south side of the road Part of the Turnpike road belonging to the Estate .. Other part of ditto... (Both rented by the Trustees of the Road.) Farm rented by Mr. Willan Ditto by Mr. Kendall ... Ditto by Mr. Mortimer .. Total p. 26 o o 16 0 I 31 2 0 37 3 I 31 . 288 0 35 .. • 133 2 21 • "7 3 10 I .. ¦ 543 0 17 T * > I > VIEW IN REGENT'S PARK. REGENT'S PARK. 53 After the death of Mr. Fordyce, the Office of Surveyor-General of the Land Revenue was amalgamated with the Commission for the management of his Majesty's Woods and Forests ; and Messrs. Leverton and Chawner, architects and surveyors of buildings of the Land Revenue ; and Mr. Nash, Architect and Surveyor of the Woods and Forests ; w-ere required to deliver in plans for the arrangement of the Marylebone Park Estate. The result of their labours w-as the delivery of several plans by Messrs. Leverton and Chawner, and of several others by Mr. Nash. Mr. Fordyce, in April, 1809, had laid before the Commissioners of the Treasury, a memorandum respecting the extension of the town over Marylebone Park, leading the attention of Architects to the proper consideration of the sewer, supplies of water, markets, police, churches, and a public ride or drive. He had, antecedent to this period, in May, 1796, particularly brought into notice the forming a direct and com modious communication to Marylebone from Westminster, and recom mended its execution. On the expiration of the lease from the Crown to the Duke of Portland in January, 1811, the Crown obtained an Act of Parliament, and appointed a commission to form a park and to let the adjoining land on building leases. The w-hole was laid out by Mr. James Morgan in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John Nash, architect, who designed all the terraces except Cornwall Terrace, which was designed by Mr. Decimus Burton. The Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterw-ards George IV., who intended building a residence there at the north-east side of the Park. Part of Regent Street was actually designed as a communication from the Prince's projected residence to Carlton House, St. James's Palace, &c. The Crown property comprises, besides the Park, the upper part of Portland Place, from No. 8 (where there is now part of the iron railing which formerly separated Portland Place from Marylebone Fields), the Park Crescent and Square, Albany, Osnaburgh, and the adjoining cross streets, York and Cumberland Squares, Regent's Park Basin and Augustus Street, Park Villages east and west, and the outer road of the Park. About the year 1820, there seems to have been a proposition set 54 MARYLEBONE. on foot for the building of a gigantic triumphal arch across the New Road from Portland Place to Regent's Park. There are in the Grace Collection, at the British Museum, two beautifully executed sepia drawings, by John Martin, showing the proposed Arch, surmounted by a large and richly ornamented column, and steps, for foot passengers, extending over the whole of the convex external surface of the arch. Whatever there may be to urge in favour of such a structure from an artistic point of view, the absence of any public utility is quite sufficient justification for the relinquishing of such an extravagant scheme. ST. DUNSTAN'S VILLA. This house was built by Decimus Burton, Esq., for the Marquis of Hertford. There is an interesting story told in reference to the house. When the marquis w-as a child, and a good child, his nurse, to rew-ard him, would take him to see "the giants" at St. Dunstan's, and he used to say, that when he grew up to be a man he would buy those giants. It happened when old St. Dunstan's was pulled down that the giants were put up to auction, and the marquis became their purchaser for the sum of ;£"200. The giants used to strike the hours on the old clock of St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street, and after they had been purchased by the Marquis of Hertford, they were again made to do duty for that purpose. Cowper, the poet, refers to the figures at St. Dunstan's in the folio-wing lines : — " When Labour and when Dullness, club in hand. Like the two figures of St. Dunstan's stand, Beating alternately, in measured time. The clock-work tintinabulum of rhyme. Exact and regular the sounds will be. But such mere quarter-strokes are not for me." The buildings and offices are on a larger scale than any other in the park. Simplicity and chastity of st}'le, characterize the exterior, and the interior is in the same st}-le of beauty. The entrance hall, in the principal front, is adorned with a portico of six columns, of that singular Athenian order \\-hich embellishes the vestibule of the Temple of the Winds at Athens. The roof is Venetian, with broad projecting eaves, supported by cantali\-res and concealed gutters to prevent the dropping of the rain water from the eaves. On each side of the portico, on the ground floor. CC< COf-z 111oLUCC UJ > REGENT'S CANAL.— ST. JOHN'S WOOD. 55 are three handsome window-s, and a series of dormers range along the upper story. The offices are abundantly spacious, being spread out, like the villas of the ancients, upon the ground floor, and are designed in the same style of architecture as the mansion. REGENT'S CANAL. By virtue of an Act of Parliament intituled "An Act for making and maintaining a navigable Canal in the Parish of Paddington to the River Thames, in the Parish of Limehouse, with a collateral cut in the Parish of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, in the County of Middlesex," the Regent's Canal w-as constructed. The work was begun in 1812, and the formal opening took place on the ist of August, 1820, when the circumstance of its completion was duly celebrated by an aquatic procession of boats and barges, ornamented with flags and streamers, and filled w-ith ladies and gentlemen more or less interested in the success of the undertaking. The canal is eight miles and six furlongs in length, and has a fall of about eighty-four feet from its commencement to its termination. It was projected by Mr. John Nash, the architect, and Mr. James Morgan was the engineer. ST. JOHN'S WOOD. The name of this place was derived from its former possessors, the Priors of the Hospital of St- John of Jerusalem. It is described in records as " Great St. John's Wood, near Marylebone Park," to distinguish it from Little St. John's Wood at Highbury, in Islington. Among these Woods, west of Marylebone Park, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, Babbington and two of his fellow conspirators succeeded in concealing themselves from the officers of Lord Burghley. The St. John's Wood estate, consisting of nearly five hundred acres of land (about 340 acres of which were in Marylebone Parish), was granted by Charles II. to Charles Henry Lord Wotton, in discharge of ;^I300, part of the sum due to him. The said Lord Wotton on the 6th of October, 1682, devised his estate to his nephew, Charles Stanhope, younger son of his brother Phillip, Earl of Chesterfield. It was subsequently purchased in 1732, of Philip Dormer, Earl of Chesterfield, by Samuel Eyre, Esq. In this way the estate came into 56 MARYLEBONE. the possession of the Eyre family, from which the famous hostelry known as the " Eyre Arms" takes its sign. The following is an "Account of the Mary-le-bone portion of this Estate from a Survey made in 1794 : — I. Pasture, houses, yard, barn, gardens, &c. ,, Little Hay Field Meadow, Hanging Field ... ,, Spring Field ,, Dutch Barn Field ,, The Twenty Acre Field Great Hill Field ,, Burton-way Pasture, house, garden and lawn Meadow, Little Robin's Field ,, Little Blewhouse Field Arable, Seven Acres Pasture, Middle Field Meadow, Blewhouse Field Great Robin's Field ... Horn Castle Great Garden Field ... Willow Tree Field Great Field Brick Field 21. Pasture, cottage and garden 22. Meadow, The Slipe Pasture, house, barn, yard, gardens ... Meadow, Barn Field ,, Oak Tree Field Pasture, Piece on St. John's Wood Lane Meadow, Four Acre Field „ Six Acre Field ... Pasture, cottage and garden Meadow, The Twenty Acres ,, The Nine Acres ,, The Twenty-two Acre Field... Saint John's Wood Lane Total 2. 3- 4- 5-6. 7- 8. 9- 10. II.12.13- 14. 15-16.17- 18.19. 20. 23- 24. 25- 26. 27.28.29. 30- 31- 32. A. R. P. I I 13 7 3 24 7 3 T2 0 I 19 8 I 14 6 3 3 16 I 26 18 3 I I 2 38 7 3 20 11 3 6 7 2 28 3 2 39 5 3 37 10 I 25 5 2 18 30 0 38 16 I 21 23 I 17 34 I 35 0 0 25 4 0 6 6 3 36 14 0 4 16 I 18 0 0 19 5 3 31 6 I 16 0 I 37 25 I 17 9 0 17 23 0 0 I 2 13 340 I 33 THE MANOR OF LISSON GREEN. 57 LISSON GREEN. It appears that the manor Lilestone, containing five hides (now called Lisson Green), is mentioned in the Domesday Book among the lands in Ossultone Hundred given in alms. It is said to have been, in King Edward's time, the property of Edward, son of Swain, a servant of the King, w-ho might alienate it at pleasure ; when the survey was taken, it belonged to Eldeva. The land, says the record, is three carucates. In demesne are four hides and a half, on which are two ploughs. The villans have one plough. There are four villans, each holding half a virgate, three cottars of two acres and one slave ; meadow equal to one plough- land ; pasture for the cattle of the village ; woods for 100 hogs ; and 3d. arising from the herbage ; valued in the whole at bos. ; in King Edward's time, at 40s. This manor afterwards became the property of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem ; on the suppression of which it was granted, in the year 1548, to Thomas Heneage and Lord Willoughby ; who conveyed it in the same year to Edward Duke of Somerset. On his attainder it reverted to the Crowm, and was granted, in the year 1564, to Edward Downing, who conveyed it the same year to John Milner, Esq., then lessee under the Crown. After the death of his descendant, John Milner, Esq., in the year 1753, it passed under his will to William Lloyd, Esq. The manor of Lisson Green, being then the property of Capt. Lloyd, of the Guards, w-as sold in lots in the year 1792. The largest lot, containing the site of the manor, was purchased by John Harcourt, Esq., M.P., who built a noble mansion, for his own residence, at the corner of Harcourt Street and the New Road. Part of the Harcourt estate was subsequently sold by auction in separate lots, and the mansion above-mentioned was occupied by Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital, an institution which was established in 1752, removed from St. George's Row to Bayswater in 1791, and established here at Harcourt House in 1810. The tradition is, that foot-traveUers, in olden days, before crossing the dangerous area of " Lisson Fields " by night time, used to collect their forces and examine their fire-arms at a lonely pubhc house on the outskirts of Lisson Grove. How great a contrast to the present over crowded condition of Lisson Grove ! The report of a medical officer, 58 MARYLEBONE. issued a few years ago, draws a terrible picture of the dwellings of the poor in that locality. One of those dwellings contained nineteen rooms, which appeared to have been constructed with special disregard to order in arrangement, uniformity, and convenience. Every part of this miserable abode was in a ruinous and dilapidated condition : the flooring of the rooms and staircases w-as w-orn into holes, and broken away ; the plaster w-as crumbling from the walls ; the roofs let in the wind and the rain ; the drains were very defective ; and the general aspect of the place was one of extreme w-retchedness. The number of persons living in the house was forty-seven. THE NEW ROAD. The New Road from Paddington to Islington, constructed in the year 1757, is now mainly represented by Marylebone Road, Euston Road, and Pentonville Road. When the bill for making this road was before Parliament, the following reasons were offered in support of it : — I. "That a free and easy communication will be opened, between the county of Essex and the different parts of the county of Middlesex and the several roads leading from the western to the eartern parts of the kingdom, without going through the streets, and by a nearer way of about two miles. 2. That the frequent accidents which happen, and the great inconveniences that arise, by driving cattle from the w-estern road through the streets to Smithfield Market, will be prevented. 3. That the pavements of the streets w-ill be greatly preserved, and the frequent destructions therein, by the multitude of carriages, which must necessarily pass through the same to go from the western to the eartern parts of the towm, will be in a great measure removed, and the business of the inhabitants of London and Westminster w-ill be transacted in a much easier and more expeditious manner. 4. That in times of public danger, by threatened invasions from foreign enemies, or otherwise, this New Road will form a complete line of circumvallation, and His Majesty's Forces may easily and expeditiously march this way into Essex, and other counties adjacent, to defend our coasts, without the inconvenience of passing through the Cities of London and Westminster, or interrupting the business thereof." THE NEW ROAD. 59 Notwithstanding all these reasons in favour of the construction of the New- Road, the bill met with strong opposition from the Duke of Bedford, w-ho endeavoured to introduce a clause restricting the erection of buildings w-ithin an immense distance of the road. Horace Walpole writes : — " A new road through Paddington has been proposed to avoid the stones. The Duke of Bedford, who is never in town in summer, objects to the dust it wih make behind Bedford House, and to some buildings proposed, though, if he were in town, he is too short-sighted to see the prospect." His grace's amendment w-ould have rendered the bill nugatory, but it was rejected, and the bill for the construction of the New Road passed. A clause was, however, inserted, prohibiting the erection of buildings, or any erection whatsoever, within fifty feet of the road, and empowering the parochial authorities, upon obtaining an order from a magistrate, to pull down and remove any such erection, and levy the expenses thereof on the offender's goods and chattels, without proceeding in the ordinary way by indictment. Thomas Smith, the historian of Marylebone, writing in 1833, says : — " The effect of this restriction has been the laying out and planting gardens of fifty feet in length in front of all the houses erected on either side of the road, which gives them a most pleasing and picturesque appearance ; and has made it necessary to introduce a clause in the Acts of Parliament, for building the Parish and Trinity Churches, to legalize the erection of their respective porticoes, which encroach within the prescribed boundary. " This Road, w-hich is now one of the finest leading avenues to the metropolis, is also considered one of the most convenient ; stage Coaches and Omnibuses (a vehicle recently brought into use) passing for the conveyance of passengers, from Paddington to the City, every five minutes daily, another proof of the immense increase of population, since, 35 years ago, only one coach ran from Paddington to London, and the proprietor could scarcely obtain a subsistence by his speculation. " The New Road is skirted by well-built houses, some of which were erected soon after the road was cut. On entering this Parish the road takes a slight turn after passing the "Old Fathing Pie 6o MARYLEBONE. House " on the south ; and crossing Portland Road, passes through Park Crescent ; from this point the rows of houses on the south side are named as follows : — Harley Place, Devonshire Terrace. Leaving these, we arrive, successively, at Church House, Church Cottage, the Parish Church, and St. Mary-le-bone Workhouse and Infirmary (described by a late w-riter, as " possessing as many w-indows and covering as much ground as a Russian Palace "), York Buildings, Salisbury Place, Cumberland Place, Queen Charlotte Row ; at the end of this Row is situated the extensive bowling-green and grounds of the Yorkshire Stingo ; this house has been a celebrated House of Entertainment for more than a century ; and it appears in the plan of the New Road of the date of 1757. Here was formerly held a fair on the ist of May, annually, which was tolerated by the Magistracy for several years, until it became the resort of a multitude of disorderly and dissolute characters, and a complete nuisance to the inhabitants of the vicinity, when it was finally suppressed, within the last few years, by order of the magistrates ; this house is now a respectable tavern. Adjoining these premises is an extensive Brewery, the property of R. Staines. The road here takes another slight turn westward, passing an elegant building at the corner of Harcourt Street, occupied by that excellent Institution the Queen's Lying -in -Hospital. Paddington Chapel, in Homer Place, is the next prominent building, and the road finally quits the parish by Winchester Row, built in the year 1766, the houses of which have been recently repaired, the fronts being covered with stucco, and presenting a very neat appearance. " The prominent features of the north side of the road are : Trinity Church ; Albany Terrace ; Park Square ; Ulster Place ; Harley House, in the occupation of Charles Day, Esq. ; Devonshire Place House, in the occupation of H. M. Dyer, Esq.; the office of John White, Esq.; Mary-bone Park House, in the occupation of the Rev. Edward Scott ; Nottingham Terrace ; Union Place (here is a modern building, with a gothic front occupied by the Exchange Bazaar, and the old established Coach Manufactory of Mr. Burnand) ; Allsop Terrace. In Gloucester Place, New Road, are situated the following extensive establishments : Jenkins's Nursery, the Coach Manufactory of Messrs. Tilbury & Co., and that most respectable and valuable institution the Phylological School. CAVENDISH SQUARE. 6i In the next row of houses, named Lisson Grove South, is situated the Western General Dispensary ; and the north side of the road terminates by Middlesex Place, and Southampton Row. Here is a large cluster of houses of ancient date, the property of George Cabbell, Esq. CAVENDISH SQUARE. In 1717 or 1718, Cavendish Square was laid out and the circular piece in the centre was enclosed, planted, and surrounded by a parapet and iron railing. The whole of the north side was taken by the celebrated James Brydges, Duke of Chandos (then Earl of Carnarvon), w-ho acquired a princely fortune as pay-master of the forces in Queen Anne's reign, and was afterwards called " The Grand Duke," from the grandeur and state in which he lived. The Duke, it is said, took this immense plot of ground, which extended a long way back towards the north, with the intention of building a town residence, corresponding with that of Cannon's. Only the wings were completed. One was the large mansion at the corner of Harley Street, at one time the residence of Princess Amelia; the other wing w-as the corresponding mansion at the corner of Chandos Street. Harcourt House, on the west side of the square, was designed by Inigo Jones. The high brick wall, which now conceals this noble mansion from view, may have been deemed a necessary protection originally, when the spot was solitary and dangerous. The South Sea failure, in 1720, caused a temporary suspension of building, and several }-ears elapsed before the square was completed. In the centre of the enclosure was erected an equestrian statue of William Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden. The inscription reads thus : — " William Duke of Cumberland, born April 15, 1721 — died October 31, 1765. This equestrian statue was erected by Lieutenant-General Wilham Strode, in gratitude for his private friendship, in honour to his public virtue. Nov. the 4th, Anno Domini 1770." The Duke was represented in modern dress, in a manner which induced much sarcastic and uncomplimentary criticism. Reynolds alludes to this statue in his tenth Discourse : " In this 62 MARYLEBONE. town may be seen an equestrian statue in a modern dress, which may be sufficient to deter modern artists from any such attempt." A colossal statue has been erected on the south side of Cavendish Square, facing down Holles Street, and bearing the following inscription : — ¦WILLIAM GEORGE FREDERICK CAVENDISH BENTINCK BORN MDCCCII. DIED MDCCCXLVIII. PORTMAN SQUARE. One of the oldest squares in Marylebone is Portman Square, the building of which was commenced in the year 1764, but it was not completed until twenty years later. It takes its name from that of the Portman Family, upon whose estate of 270 acres it was built. It is a very handsome square, 500 feet by 400 feet in size, and adjoins the historic residence of Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, known as Montague House. By the death of her husband, the Hon. Edward Montague, in 1775, Mrs. Montague was left in great opulence, and maintained her establishment in the learned and fashionable world for many years, living in a style of splendid hospitality. For many years her elegant house in Portman Square was opened to the world. Here the wit, rank, and talent of the last century assembled at her receptions ; and here was the apartment covered with feather hangings, celebrated by the poet Cowper in the lines — "The birds put off their every hue To dress a room for Montague." She had lived at the table of the second Lord Oxford, the resort of Pope, and his contemporaries ; she was the intimate friend of Pulteney and Lyttelton, and she lived long enough to entertain Johnson, Goldsmith, Burke, Reynolds, and Beattie. She founded a literary society, denominated " The Blue Stocking Club," which for some years was the subject of much conversation. MRS. MONTAGUE. 63 She early distinguished herself as a writer; first by her "Dialogues of the Dead," published along with those of Lord Lyttelton; and afterwards by her able " Essay on the writings and genius of Shakespeare," in which she amply vindicated our great poet from the abuse thrown out against him by Voltaire. The work has been pronounced by Thomas Warton the most elegant and judicious piece of criticism this age has produced. After her death, four volumes of her epistolary correspondence were published under the editorship of her nephew and executor, Matthew Montague, Esq. The extensive and well-wooded gardens belonging to Montague House w-ere annually, for many years, the scene of the chimney sweepers' holiday. On the ist of May every year, Mrs. Montague was led by her benevolent feelings to invite all the chimney sweepers in the metropolis to her garden, where they were regaled with good and wholesome fare, so that they might enjoy one happy day in the year. Mrs. Montague died in the year 1800. In 1802, M. Otto, the French Ambassador, had his residence on the south side of the square. Upon the occasion of peace being proclaimed on the 29th of April, 1802, between His Britannic Majesty and the French Republic, illuminations of the most splendid character succeeded the ceremonial of the day ; but the object of universal attraction was the French Ambassador's house, which was brilliant with illuminations by means of coloured lamps, dispersed in the form of an Ionic temple, and having in the centre a large transparency, representing England and France, with their various attributes, in the act of uniting their hands, in token of amity, before an altar dedicated to humanity, above which appeared the word Peace, with olive branches. The following circumstance, which occurred a few days before the illumination, will shew the true characteristics of national feeling. Immense crowds were daily attracted by the preparations for the magnificent display which afterwards took place. At length the word Concord was formed in coloured lamps on the entablature of the temple. The reading of John Bull was, however. Conquered, and his inference was that it was intended to mean that Britain was conquered by France. Disturbance and riot were about to commence, when M. Otto, after some fruitless attempts at explanation, prudently conceded, and the word 64 MARYLEBONE. amity was substituted. But it did not end there, for some sailors found out that the initials G. R. were not surmounted as usual by a crown. This they promptly insisted should be done, and a sort of diadem, formed of lamps, was extemporized and placed over the monogram. MANCHESTER SQUARE. Manchester House, which occupies the north side of this square, was commenced in 1776, but the building of the other portions of the square was not finished until 1788. It had been intended originally that the square should be called Queen Anne's Square, in honour of the reigning sovereign, and it was proposed that a church should be built in its centre, but for some reason the plan was never carried into effect. The ground lying waste was purchased by the Duke of Manchester; the house w-as erected upon it, and his grace's title was given as the name to the new square which grew up in front of it. Upon the sudden death of the Duke of Manchester, and the minority of his heir, this noble mansion, wnich has a very imposing appearance, having a spacious court-yard enclosed with iron railing, became the residence of the Spanish Ambassador, and afterwards the property of the Marquis of Hertford. During the residence here of the Spanish Ambassador, he erected a small Roman Catholic Chapel in Spanish Place, which is at the north-east corner of the square. The chapel, which is dedicated to St. James, is reckoned a handsome piece of architecture, and was built from designs by Bonomi. In 1832 this chapel was repaired and its e.xterior covered w-ith stucco. Manchester House was afterwards occupied by the French Ambassador. DORSET SQUARE. Dorset Square is a small but handsome square, with the area enclosed and planted, and is built on the site of Lord's old Cricket Ground. BLANDFORD SQUARE. The south side of this square was completed in the year 1833. That was the first portion built ; and the remainder has been built subsequently. BRYANSTON AND MONTAGUE SQUARES. 65 At No. 16, George Eliot (Miss Marian Evans), the celerated authoress, lived previously to the year 1865, in which year she changed her residence to North Bank, St. John's Wood. Romola and Felix Holt were w-ritten at the house in Blandford Square. BRYANSTON AND MONTAGUE SQUARES. Bryanston and Montague Squares were built on ground commonh- called " Ward's Field." Here w-as formerly a large pond, at w-hich many fatal accidents annually occurred to the school-boys of the neighbourhood. Near this spot was also a cluster of smaU cottages, called Apple Village, remarkable from having been the residence of one of the murderers of Mr. Steele. The two squares were built by Mr. David Porter, an eminent builder who had formerly been chimney-sweeper to the village. He acquired large property, and made his residence in Little Welbeck Street. On the occasion of the jubilee to celebrate the fiftieth year of the reign of George IIL, Mr. Porter gave a substantial entertainment to his w-orkmen and dependants in the enclosed area of Montague Square, which was then in an unfinished state ; when, notwithstanding the public situation, much conviviality and harmony prevailed around the festive board. Mr. Porter died in the }-ear 1819, having lived to see the result of his active labours, for many years, in a most flourishing state. Bryanston and Montague Squares are both oblong in shape, and are nearly of the same size, viz., upw-ards of eight hundred feet long, and between one and two hundred feet wide. Anthony Trollope used to live at No. 39, Montague Square. A sarcastic writer in Knight's Cyclopcedia of London gives the following uncomplimentary account of these squares : — " Montague Square and Bryanstone Square are twin deformities, the former of which is placed immediately in the rear of Montague House. They are long, narrow strips of ground, fenced in by two monotonous rows of flat houses. In the centre of the green turf which runs up the middle of Bryanstone Square is a dwarf weeping ash, which resembles strikingly a gigantic umbrella or toad-stool ; and in the corresponding site in Montague Square is a pump, with a flower-pot, shaped like an urn, on the top of it. A range of balconies runs along the front of the F 66 MARYLEBONE. houses in Bryanstone Square ; but the inmates appear to entertain dismal apprehensions of the thievish propensities of their neighbours, for between every two balconies is introduced a terrible chevaux-de-frise. The mansions in Montague Square are constructed after the most approved Brighton fashion, each with its little bulging protuberance to admit of a peep into the neighbours' parlours. These two oblongs, though dignified with the name of squares, belong rather to the anomalous places which economical modern builders contrive to carve out of the corners of mew-s-lanes behind squares, and dispose of w-ith a profit to those who wish to live near the great.", CHAPTER V. TYBURN TREE AND PRIMROSE HILL. The name Tyburn. — "Deadly Never Green." — Fuller's derivation.— The journey to Tyburn. — St. Giles's Bowl. — Tom Clinch.— Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw. — Celebrated Executions : Holy Maid of Kent, Robert Southwell, Mrs. Turner, John Felton, Hacker, Axtell, Okey, Barkstead, Corbet, Thomas Sadler, Sir Thomas Armstrong, John Smith, Jack Sheppard, Lord Ferrers, John ^Wesket, Dr. Hensey, John Rann, Dr. Dodd, Elizabeth Gaunt, John Austin. — Hangmen: Derrick, Gregory Brandon, " Esquire Dun," John Ketch.— Primrose Hill and Barrow Hill. — Green Berry Hill.— Murder of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey. — Duels.— Capt. Macnamara and Col. Montgomery. — Barrow Hill. — Origin of name. TYBURN TREE. YBURN, or Tybourn, the name anciently applied to the whole district of Mar}-lebone and its vicinit}-, has, in process of time become restricted to one particular spot in the locality, w-here the gallows for the execution of criminals formerly stood. Park Lane, in 1679, ^'^s called Tyburn Road, and in 1686, Tyburn Lane. Oxford Street also, at one time, was called Tyburn Road. T}-burn Gallows, or Tyburn Tree, or " Deadly Never Green," as it was variously called, w-as the public place of execution for criminals convicted in the county of Middlesex. The actual gallows, which in all probability was a permanent erection, was of triangular form, standing upon three legs. There are various allusions in the w-orks of old authors to the shape and uses of this celebrated structure. Thus, in Tarlton's Jests, 1611, it is written: "It w-as made like the shape of Tiborne, three-square." Taylor, the Water Poet, in 1623, writes : — ' ' I have heard sundry men of times dispute. Of trees that in one yeare, will twice beare fruit. But if a man note Tyburn 'twill appeare. That that's a tree that bears twelve times a yeare." 68 MARYLEBONE. Fuller, in his Worthies, speaking of the name Tyburn, says, " Tieburne, some will have it so called from Tie and Burne, because the poor Lollards for whom this instrument (of cruelty to them, though of justice to malefactors) was first set up, had their necks tied to the beame, and their lower parts burnt in the fire " — an ingenious derivation, certainly, but, as has been shown in another place, one which is far from probable. Shirley, in The Wedding, makes Raw-bone sa}-, " I do imagine myself apprehended already; now the constable is carrying me to Newgate — now, now, I'm at the Sessions' House, in the dock; now I'm called — 'Not guilty, my Lord.' The jury has found the indictment, billa vera. Now, now^, comes my sentence. Now I'm in the cart, riding up Holborn in a two-w-heeled chariot, with a guard of halberdiers. 'There goes a proper fellow-,' says one; 'Good people, pray for me.' Now I'm at the three wooden stilts (Tyburn). Hey! now I feel my toes hang i' the cart; now 'tis drawn awa^- ; now, now, now ! I am gone." The exact spot upon w-hich the gallows stood has been identified w-ith the site of Connaught Place. After the buildings accumulated, the gallows at Tyburn w-as found to be in the way, and every time, after use, w-as taken down and deposited in a house at the corner of Upper Bryanston Street and Edgware Road. The house had curious iron balconies to the windows of the first and second floors, which were used by the sheriffs when attending in their official capacity as w-itnesses of the execution. In 1783, when Tyburn ceased to be the place of execution, the gallow-s was purchased by a carpenter and converted into stands for beer butts, in the cellars of a public-house in Adam Street called the " Carpenter's Arms." In journeying from London to Tyburn, criminals were conveyed along Holborn, and, as New Oxford Street was not at that time constructed, the way lay through High Street, St. Giles's, where the drinking of St. Giles's Bowl w-as an old established and long continued custom. It seems to have been given to the w-retched criminals as their last refreshment, and Jack Sheppard, w-ho conformed to the custom, is said to have desired that the remainder of the drink should be given to Jonathan Wild. I have referred to this custom in a recent book (see " Bloomsbury and St. Giles's," by George Clinch, p. 9). " St. Giles's Bowl " had its origin in early times, and was probably a ST. GILES'S BOWL. 69 pardon-maser or pardon-bowl, w-hose superstitious use w-as denounced by Latimer from St. Paul's Cross, and by Bishop Bale, w-ho, indeed, in his Ymage of both Churches, 1550, expressly mentions St. Giles's Bowl. The hospitahty at High Street, St. Giles, how-ever, if the last, w-as probably not the only refreshment in which the criminals indulged on their last road to Tyburn. Swift wrote some humorous lines upon one, Tom Clinch (with whom, of course, the present w-riter claims no relationship), who called for refreshments at the " George and Blue Boar," Holborn, now- the "Inns of Court Hotel:" — "As clever Tom Clinch, wlien the rabble was bawling, Rode stately through Holborn to die of his calling, He stop't at the George for a bottle of sack, And promised to pay for it when he came back." Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I., is said to have walked barefooted through Hyde Park to T}'burn, and to have done penance there ; though the fact of her having done so has been denied b}- the Marshal de Bassompierre, the PVench Ambassador at the time. Another historical event took place at Tyburn upon the first anniversary of the execution of Charles I., after the Restoration, when the bodies of Oliver Crowwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were hung upon the three wooden stilts of Tyburn Tree. The bodies were dragged from their graves in Henry VII.'s Chapel, in Westminster Abbey, and removed at night to the Red Lion Inn, in Holborn, from w-hence the}- were carried next morning in sledges to Tyburn, and there, in their shrouds and cere-cloths, suspended till sunset, at the several angles of the gallows. They w-ere then taken dow-n and beheaded, their bodies buried beneath the gallows, and their heads set upon poles on the top of Westminster Hall. Among the celebrated persons who have been executed at Tyburn w-ere the Holy Maid of Kent, in the reign of Henry VIII. ; Robert Southwell, the Jesuit, who was charged with, and, in 1595, executed for, alleged conspiracy against the Government of Qeeen Elizabeth. He wrote a number of books, both in prose and verse, upon theological matters. Mrs. Turner, who was implicated in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, w-as executed at T}-burn on the 14th November, 1615. She w-as the inventress of }-ellow starch, and w-as executed in a cobw-eb lawn ruff 70 MARYLEBONE. of that colour. It is also asserted that the hangman had his bands and cuffs of yellow, which made many after that day, of either sex, to forbear the use of that coloured starch, till it at last grew generally detested and disused. Among others w-ho w-ere executed at Tyburn, was John Felton, the assassin of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. His body was afterwards hanged in chains at Portsmouth, where the murder was committed. Hacker and Axtell were executed October 19th, 1660, and Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet were executed April 19th, 1662 ; they were five of fift}--nine individuals who signed the death warrant of Charles I. Thomas Sadler was hanged at Tyburn in 1677, for stealing the mace and purse of the Lord Chancellor ; and Oliver Plunket, Archbishop of Armagh, in 1681, suffered a similar fate for an assumed design of bringing a French arm}- over to Ireland to murder all the Protestants in that Kingdom. On June 20th, 1684, Sir Thomas Armstrong was executed at Tyburn, as a punishment for his complicacy in the Rye House Plot. His head was afterwards set up on Temple Bar. A singular instance of either great tenacity of the vital principle, or failure of the means employed by the hangman for the acomplishment of his task, is to be found in the case of one John Smith, who w-as condemned for felony and burglary, and was conveyed to Tyburn on the I2th of December, 1705; after he had hanged about quarter-of-an-hour, a reprieve came, and he was cut down, whereupon, marvellous as it seems, " he came to himself," as an old account records, " to the great admiration of the spectators, the executioner having pulled him by the legs, and used other means to put a speedy period to his life." Jack Sheppard was, as is w-ell known, executed at Tyburn. It is said that a crowd of tw-o hundred thousand persons w-itnessed the spectacle. The various incidents which attended the closing scene in the life of this notorious criminal have been graphically portra}-ed by the pen of the novelist Ainsw-orth, and by the inimitable pencil of Cruikshank. The custom of drinking on the way to Tyburn reached such a disgraceful pitch that it had to be entirely prohibited. Lord Ferrers, who was executed at Tyburn on the 5th of May, 1760, for the murder of his land-steward, on the w-ay to Tyburn said he was thirsty and wished for some w-ine and water. The sheriff said he w-as DR. HEN SEY' S REPRIEVE. 71 sorry to be obliged to refuse him. B}- late regulations the}- were enjoined not to let prisoners drink from the place of imprisonment to that of execution, as great indecencies had been formerly committed by the lower species of criminals getting drnnk. Lord Ferrers w-ore his w-edding clothes to Tyburn ; as good an occasion, he observed, for putting them on as that for which they were first made. John Wesket, on the 9th of January, 1765, w-as executed at Tyburn for the murder of his master, the Earl of Harrington. He w-ent in the cart, dressed in a blue and gold frock, and w-earing, as the emblem of innocence, a white cockade in his hat. He ate several oranges on his passage; inquired if his hearse w-as ready; and then, as old Rowe used to say, was launched into eternity. If the melancholy spectacle of formal processions to T}burn Tree w-ere intended to impress the multitudes w-ho witnessed them with sentiments of reverence for the laws of their country, it must be con fessed that the result was a complete failure. The eager curiosity of the populace to witness executions became a source of considerable emolument to certain miscreants, whe w-ere in the habit of erecting scaffolds for spectators. The prices of the seats varied according to the turpitude or quality of the criminal. Dr. Hensey w-as to have been executed for high treason in 1758, and the prices of seats for that exhibition amounted to tw-o shillings and tw-o-and-sixpence ; but in the midst of general expectation the Doctor w-as most provokingly reprieved. As the mob descended from their stations with unwilling steps, it occurred to them that as they had been deprived of the intended entertainment, the proprietors of the seats ought to return the admission-money, which they demanded in vociferous terms, and with blows, and, in short, they exercised their happy talent for rioting with unbounded, success. Among the many desperate characters, w-ho after making a considerable figure in criminal history, have finished their career at Tyburn, mention may be made of John Rann, commonly called " Sixteen String Jack." It is supposed that the sixteen strings w-orn by Rann at his knees were in allusion to the number of times he had been acquitted. The following circumstances are taken from an account of the life of this notorious man, published anonymously between the times of his sentence and execution. John Rann w-as born in the parish of St. George, Hano\-er 72 MARYLEBONE. Square, of ver\ honest parents, on the 15th of April, 1752. At the age of fourteen lie was employed 1)\- Mr. Dimmock, a coachmaster of some standing near Grosvenor Square, by whom he seems to have been well treated, and for whom he himself ahvays professed the most grateful acknow-ledgments and regard. It was reported that Rami acted as coachman to a nobleman, and as postillion to the Earl of Bute, but the writer of the contemporay account regards both reports as dubious. He thinks Rann only served as a com mon liackne}- coachman under Mr. Dimmock. Finding this employment about the environs of O.xford Road and Grosvenor Square produced but a bare subsistence, Rami determined to play a bolder game, especiall}- as he had conceived a strong attachment to a }-oung lady, to whose fortune he thought himself unequal. His person being in ever}- wa}- agreeable, he found means to be frequently at masquerades, assemblies, and other places of public resort, where address and effrontery were more useful than education. There he became acquainted with a }-()ung lad}' known by the name of Miss la Roache, for whom he entertained a passion. He was always anxious to appear in the guise of a gentleman, and w-as fond of showy dress, such as materials of green or blue trimmed with gold, or brow-n laced with silver : and his hat was usuall}- decorated ^\-ith a narrow- gold or silver band. .At Barnet Races he appeared on the course dressed like a sporting peer of the first rank. He was distinguished b}- the elegance of his appearance, in a blue satin waistcoat laced with silver, and was followed by hundreds of spectators from one side of the course to the other, attracted by so much finery. Scarcel}- had he entered the eighteenth }-ear of his age, w-heii, for picking a gentleman's pocket, he \vas taken before Sir John Fielding, and punished. Upon several subsecjuent occasions Rann had to appear before that worth}- magistrate, and generall}- upon charges of pilfering and robber}-. \\'illiam Cla}toii and Nathan Jones were his tutors in the art of pocket-picking, and James College, a lad known b\- the name of " Eight String Jaine," was an intimate and frecjuent companion. His first trial was in April, 1774, when he, William Clayton, and Robert JShepherd, were indicted for robbing \\'illiain Somers on the king's highway of four shillings, and putting him in fear of his life ; JOHN RANN. 7i but of this they were all acquitted, the prosecutor refusing to appear. Their escape from punishment was no warning to the highway robbers, and Rann w-as mixed up with many others shortly afterwards. One of the most extraordinary circumstances was that Rann very frequently boasted of his exploits in public compan}- ; made no scruple to recite the particulars of his robberies, and even mentioned the time when he thought his career of iniquity would be at an end. He w-as often heard to sa}-, " I have so much money, I shall spend that, and then I shall not last long." He frequently said that he should be hanged about November, and once he bet a crown's w-orth of punch that he should suffer before Christmas. On W'ednesday, the 28th September, 1774, John Rann and Wihiam Collier were examined at the public office in Bow Street, on a suspicion of their having robbed Dr. William Bell, Chaplain to her Royal Highness the Princess Amelia, of his watch and eighteenpence in money, on the highway, near Ealing in Middlesex. On the following AVednesday, October 5th, they w-ere submitted to another examination, and committed to New-gate to take their trial for highw-ay robbery. On the 2oth October, 1774, John Rann was conducted from Newgate to the New Sessions House in the Old Bailey, together w-ith his accomplice William Collier, to take their trial for the robber}- of Dr. William Bell, near Gunnersbury Lane, and on the 26th of October they both received sentence to be executed at T}-burn, and Eleanor Roach to be transported for fourteen years. Rann was executed on the 30th of November. John Thomas Smith, in his Book for a Rainy Day, records some curious reminiscences of Rann's journe}- to the gallows. He says : — "I well remember, when in my eighth year, m}- father's pla}-fellow, Mr. Joseph Nollekens, leading me by the hand to the end of John Street, to see the notorious terror of the king's highways, John Rann, commonly called ' Sixteen-string Jack,' on his way to execution at Tyburn, for robbing Dr. Bell, Chaplain to the Princess Amelia, in Gunnersbury Lane. Rann was a smart fellow, a great favourite with a certain description of ladies. The malefactor's coat was a bright pea-green ; he had an immense nosegay, which he had received from the hand of one of the frail sisterhood, whose practice it was in those days to present flowers to their 74 MARYLEBONE. favourites from the steps of St. Sepulchre's Church, as the last token of what they called their attachment to the condemned, whose worldly accounts w-ere generall}- brought to a close at T}-burn, in consequence of their associating w-ith abandoned characters. On our return home, Mr. Nollekens, stooping close to my ear, assured me that had his father-in-law-, Mr. Justice W^elch, been high constable we could have w-alked all the w-a}- to T}-burn by the side of the cart." The follow-ing humorous account of the closing scene in Dr. Dodd's life (executed at Tyburn for forging a bond in the name of the Earl of Chesterfield, for ^4200) is extracted from ScKyn's Correspondence : — "Another was executed at the same time w-ith him, who seemed hardly to engage one's attention sufficiently to make one draw any comparison betw-een him and Dodd. Upon the whole the piece was not very full of events. The doctor, to all appearance, w-as rendered perfectly stupid from despair. His hat was flapped all round, and pulled over his eyes, w-hich w-ere ne\-er directed to an}- object around, nor even raised, except now- and then lifted up in the course of his pra}-ers. He came in a coach, and a \exy heavy shower of rain fell just upon his entering the cart, and another just at his putting on his nightcap. During the shower, an umbreUa was held over his head, w-hich Gilly Wihiams, who was present, observed w-as quite unnecessary, as the doctor was going to a place w-here he might be dried. " He was a considerable time in praying, which some people standing about seemed rather tired w-ith ; they rather w-ished for a more interesting part of the traged}-. The wind, which w-as high, blew off his hat, w-hich rather embarrassed him, and discovered to us his countenance w-hich w-e could scarcely see before. His hat, how-ever, w-as soon restored to him, and he went on with his pra}-ers. There were two clergymen attending on him, one of whom seemed ver}- much affected. The other, I suppose, was the ordinar}- of New-gate, as he w-as perfectly indifferent and unfeeling in everything he said and did. " The executioner took both hat and w ig off at the same time. \\'hy he put on his w-ig again I do not know-, but he did ; and the doctor took off his wig a second time, and then tied on a nightcap which did not fit him ; but w-hether he stretched that or took another, I could not perceive. He then put on his nightcap himself, and upon his taking it PRIMROSE HILL AND BARROW HILL. 75 he certainly had a smile on his countenance, and very soon afterwards there w-as an end of all his hopes and fears on this side the grave. He never moved from the place he first took in the cart ; seemed absorbed in despair and utterly dejected, w-ithout any other signs of animation but in praying. I stayed till he w-as cut down and put into the hearse." The last w-oman who suffered death in England for a political offence was Elizabeth Gaunt, an ancient matron of the Anabaptist persuasion, burned to death at Tyburn for harbouring a person concerned in the Rye House Plot. The last person executed at Tyburn was John Austin, who suffered death on the 7th of November, 1783. After that date criminals were executed at Newgate. The earliest hangman, whose name is known as having officiated at Tyburn, was Derrick. He lived in the reign of James I., and is mentioned by Dekker, in his Gull's Hornbook, and by Middleton, in his Black Book. He was succeeded by Gregory Brandon, who, it is said, had arms confirmed to him by the College of Heralds, and became an esquire by virtue of his office. Brandon was succeeded by Dun, " Esquire Dun" as hewas called; and Dun, in 1684 by John Ketch, commemorated, by Dryden in an epilogue, and whose name is now synonymous with hangman. The hangman's rope was commonly called " a riding knot an inch below the ear," or " a Tyburn tippet ; " and the sum of I3|-d. is still distinguished as "hangman's wages." Trials, condemnations, confessions, and last dying speeches were first printed in 1624; and "Tyburn's elegiac lines" have found an enduring celebrity in The Dunciad. PRIMROSE HILL AND BARROW HILL. The name of this celebrated eminence is supposed to have been derived from the abundant growth in its vicinity of the beautiful flowers whose name it bears. Primroses grew abundantly, too, in " Primrose Lane " adjoining. There seems to have been an idea that it was once called " Green Berry Hill," but the idea is probably erroneous. Barrow Hill (now occupied by the reservoir of a waterworks company) seems to have been known by that name at one time, and a rather curious circumstance in connection therewith is that three of the 76 MARYLEBONE. supposed murderers of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey, in 1678, were named Green, Berry, and Hih. It is not improbable that " Green Berry Hih " was a form of name adopted in consequence of that curious fact, but the more ancient form of Barrow HiU was afterw-ards revived, and, as far as the name is now- preserved, the ancient form is still used. Barrow- Hill Road and Barrowhill Place are named after that historical eminence. Perhaps the most important event in connection w-ith Primrose HiU was the discovery of the murdered body of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey, on Thursda}-, October 17th, 1678. He had probably been murdered elsewhere by strangulation. Three persons, namely, Robert Green, Cushion- man to the Queen's Chapel ; Law-rence HiU, servant to Dr. Godden, Treasurer of the Chapel; and Henry Berry, Porter at Somerset House; were tried for this murder at the King's Bench, before the Lord Chief Justice Scroggs, on the loth of February, 1679. The infamous w-itnesses, Gates, Prance, and Bedloe, declared " that he w-as w-a}-laid and inveigled into the Palace (Somerset House), under the pretence of keeping the peace betw-een tw-o servants v\-ho were fighting in the }-ard ; that he was there strangled, his neck broke, and his own sword run through his body ; that he was kept four da}-s before the}- ventured to remove him ; at length his corpse w-as first carried in a Sedan chair to Soho, and then on a horse to Primrose Hill." The \-erdict at the Coroner's Inquest was " That he w-as murdered by certain persons unknown to the Jurors, and that his death proceeded from suffocation and strangling ; and that his sword had been thrust through his body some time after his death, and u'hoi he was quite cold ; because not the least sign of blood was seen upon his shirt, or his clothes, or the place w-here he w-as found." Thus, although the evidence taken at the Inquest and that of the w-itnesses at the Trial agreed in some particulars, there was not the slightest ground upon w-hich to convict the three prisoners. Nevertheless the jury found them aU guilty of the murder, and the Lord Chief Justice said, "They had found the same verdict that he would have found had he been one of them." Green and HiU were executed on the 2ist of February, declaring their innocence to the last ; and Berry, w-ho also declared himself innocent, w-as executed on the 28th day of Ma}-. Sir Edmond's corpse was embalmed and kept untU the 31st of PASTIMES OF PRIMROSE HILL, 1791. SIR EDMOND GODFREY. 77 October, w-hen it was carried from BrideweU Hospital, of which he w-as one of the Governors, to the Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, where he was buried. The paU was supported by eight knights, aU Justices of the Peace ; and aU the Aldermen of the City of London atteirfed the funeral. Seventy-tw-o ministers marched two-and-tw-o before the body, and great multitudes foUow-ed after in the same order. A sermon w-as preached on the occasion by Dr. ^^'iUiams Lloyd, Vicar of St. Martin's. Sir Edmond Godfrey w-as himself a magistrate, and had been active in the discovery of the Popish Plot in 1678, and a recent w-riter has suggested that his death might have been plotted by Titus Gates. Primrose Hill and the neighbouring locality has been the scene of several sanguinary duels, one of which took place on April bth, 1803, between Lieut.-Col. Montgomery and Capt. Macnamara, in consequence of a quarrel betw-een them in H}-de Park, when a meeting was appointed for 7 o'clock the same evening, near Primrose Hill ; the consequence of which proved fatal. Captain Macnamara's baU entered the right side of Colonel Montgomery's chest, and passed through the heart ; he instantly fell without uttering a w-ord, but rolled over tw-o or three times, as if in great agony, and groaned. Being carried into Chalk Farm, he expired in about five minutes. Colonel Montgomery's ball went through Captain Macnamara, entering on. the left side, just above the hip, and passing through the left side, carrying part of the coat and w-aistcoat w-ith it, and taking part of his leather breeches and the hip button away with it on the other side. A Coroner's Inquest returned a verdict of man slaughter against Captain Macnamara, who was tried at the Old Bailey on the 22nd of April, when he received an excellent character from Lords Hood, Nelson, Hotham, and Minto, and a great number of highly respectable gentlemen, and the jur}- returned a verdict of "not guilty." The name of Barrow Hill — the adjoining hill to Primrose HUl — is suggestive of an ancient funeral mound. Barrow was a word w-hich signified an earthwork generally, but was confined as a general rule to burial mounds. It is extremeh' difficult to say w-hether Barrow Hill may or may not have been an artificially-formed eminence. The reservoir of the W^est Middlesex Waterworks now occupies the top of the hill, and its construction has destroyed the form of the hill so much that it is a matter of considerable difficulty to form any idea of its original shape. 78 MARYLEBONE. Under these circumstances it is impossible to ascertain much about Barrow Hill, except that the name is of great antiquity and probably has some reference to its historical associations. Primrose Hill is now chiefly remarkable for the beautiful and extensive view w-hich it commands all around, and especially over Regent's Park, and the adjacent parts of Marylebone and St. Pancras. r -^ -.— r'gE!.^j^:-5^33Ci^ ;^ yL:r.&a--rt^ ^/^r//' CHAPTER VL MARYLEBONE: SOCIETIES AND INSTITUTIONS. The Marylebone -Volunteers. — The Royal York St. Marylebone -Volunteers. — The Royal Toxophilite Society, Regent's Park. — Sir Ashton Lever. — The Archer's Hall. — The Marylebone Cricket Club. — Thomas Lord. — M. Garnerin's balloon ascent. — The Zoological Society. — The Royal Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park. — The Middlesex Hospital. THE MARYLEBONE VOLUNTEERS. URING the last few }-ears of the i8th century, this military association was formed. It is thus described in a work entitled — "Loyal \'olunteers of London and Environs," published in 1799 : — " Marylebone Volunteers. Commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel Phipps. This Corps was formed early in 1798, under the Command of Lieutenant Colonel Phipps, to protect their own district. They consist of six Companies, Light Infantry, Grenadiers, and Battalion Men. Received their Colours from the hand of the Right Hon. Lady Kinnoul, in Lord's Ground, Marylebone, the 30th of May, 1799, and were reviewed by His Majesty the 4th of June. The concerns of this Association are regulated by a Committee, military and parochial. The number they mean to extend to is undetermined. Names and Rank of Officers. Commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel Phipps. Major, — Hamilton. it: 8o MARYLEBONE. Captains, Welford, Blair, Wyatt, Thompson, Sir Henry Lambert. Lieutenants, Delamain, Neale, Boscowen, Pownall, Dare, Plowden, Harcourt, Ward, Johnson, Arnold. Adjutant, Jos. Bibbins. Surgeon, — Daston. Dress. Round Hat, and Bear-skin w-itli green Feather. Breast-plate, oval with a Star, Cartouch, a small Star. Half Boots, &c." The uniform also included a blue jacket, turned up with red, blue pantaloons, &c., from which circumstance they w-ere facetiously caUed " Blue Bottles." The arms were provided by Government, and deposited at the w-orkhouse. Their parade ground was situated in George Street. According to one account, the corps was formed in 1797, but other accounts say 1798. It was disbanded in the year 1801. THE ROYAL YORK ST. MARYLEBONE VOLUNTEERS. In 1802, after the short interval of peace, the old threat of invasion being repeated, a second Volunteer Corps of Infantry was specially established under the above title, in compliment to His Royal Highness the Duke of York, w-ho at that time resided in the parish. This corps soon arrived to great perfection in order and discipline, under the command of Colonel the Rt. Hon. \'iscount Duncannon, and T. PhiUips, Esq., their Adjutant ; and comprised upwards of one thousand effective members. The uniform was different to that of the original corps, being a handsome scarlet jacket, trimmed with gold lace, blue pantaloons, &c. The arms were provided by the Government, and the Armoury and Orderly Room were first established at No. 4, Nottingham Street, and afterwards removed to a building at the corner of Marylebone Lane and Wigmore Street. The expenses of the corps w-ere defrayed by a subscription amongst its members. A subscription was, however, solicited in 1804, from those inhabitants w-ho were exempt, or not eligible to serve in the corps ; when it was stated in the circulars, distributed on the occasion, that nearly £20,000 had been expended in establishing the Association, which was one of most THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 8i respectable character, being composed principally of master tradesmen, and officered by gentlemen. The corps was broken up in 1814, and the remains of their fund amounting to ;£700 was presented to the Parish Charity School, and Middlesex Hospital; viz., £400 to the School, and £300 to the Hospital. THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. Near the Inner Circle of Regent's Park are the grounds and hall of this ancient society, of which the following are some historical particulars : — In the year 1514, the citizens of London practised archer}- in the fields round about Islington, Hoxton, and Shoreditch. Henry VIII. was particularly fond of archery, and in 1537 commissioned Sir Christopher Morris, Master of the Ordnance, to revive the amusement, which at that time was rather drooping, by establishing a societ}- of archers, which was called "the Fraternitye or Guylde of St. George," upon which the King conferred many privileges. They were constituted "Overseers of the Scyence of Artyllery, that ys to wyt, for Long-bowes, Cross-bowes, and Handguns." The Archers of St. George used to assemble in Lolesworth or Spital-fields, and the name of their place of exercise at this spot was Teaselcroft, so called from the thistles with which it abounded. The Honorable Artillery Company had its origin about the year 1585, when London being wearied with continual musters, a number of its gallant citizens w-ho had served abroad with credit, voluntarily exercised themselves, and trained others to the ready use and practice of -war. The ground they used was at the north-east extremity of the City, near Bishopsgate, the same w-hich had before been occupied by the above-mentioned Fraternity of Artihery. Fort Street, Artillery Street and Lane adjoin Spital Square, and by their names identify the spot. Within two years there w-ere nearly 300 merchants and others sufficiently skilled to train common soldiers, and in 1588, in connection with the preparations for repelling the Spanish Armada, some of them had commissions in the camp at Tilbury. The association soon afterwards fell into decay, yet, as the Company has never since its first creation been altogether extinct, it is at present the oldest representative of G 82 MARYLEBOXE. the English standing army. From the Company's Register, the only book they saved in the Civil Wars, it appears that the association was revived in 1611, by w-arrant from the Privy Council, and the number of the Volunteers soon amounted to 6,000. Three years after this they made a general muster, when, according to a contemporary authority, the men were better armed than disciplined. In 1622 they erected an armoury, towards w-hich the Chamber of London gave £300. It w-as furnished with 500 sets of arms of extraordinary beauty, w-hich w-ere aU lost in the Civil Wars. Their captain during a part of those troublous times w-as a Mr. Manby, who detained for his own purposes the arms, plate money, books, and other goods of the Company, and the Protector was in vain solicited to enforce their restoration. In 1640 they quitted their old field of discipline, and entered upon the plot of ground which they now occupy in BunhiU Fields, leased to them by the City. This ground is described as a parcel of ground consisting of gardens, orchards, etc., situated on the north side of Chisw-eU Street, and called by the name of BunhiU Fields, which w-as in the year 1498 converted into a spacious field for the use of the London archers, and which is now known by the name of the Artillery Ground. For many }-ears they kept up an Archery Division, archery being the art cultivated by the Company in their earliest days, when the bow and arrow w-ere used in warfare. In process of time this division -was abolished, but archery was still kept alive in the neigbourhood of London by the Finsbury Archers. Even this remnant of the ancient art of archery had almost died out when the few survivors joined Sir Ashton Lever in the inauguration of the To.xophilite Society, in 1781. Some years later the members of the Artillery Company appear to bave resumed the bow, as they occupied two pairs of targets at the grand meeting of Archery societies on Blackheath, in 1792, and the Toxophilite Society, in its earlier years, mostly held their principal meetings in the Company's ground. But the Finsbury archers have never reappeared, and the Archers' Division of the Honourable Artillery Company has also become merged into the Royal Toxophilite Society. Sir Ashton Lever, Knight, who founded the Royal Toxophilite Society, on April 3rd, 1781, was son of Sir D'Arcy Lever, of AUington, THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 83 near Manchester. He finished his education at Corpus Christi College, Oxford, and on leaving the University went to reside with his mother, and aftenvards settled at his family seat, Allington, w-hich he rendered famous by forming there the best aviary in the kingdom. He next paid great attention to the study of all branches of natural history, w-hich taste is said to have had its origin from the circumstance of his having shot a white sparrow. He is said to have become possessed of one of the finest museums in the world, in the procuring of w-hich he spared no expense, and he purchased specimens from the most distant regions. This collection was removed to London about the year 1775, and opened to the public in Leicester House, Leicester Square. Unfortunately, the exhibition does not appear to have been a very successful enterprise, as from the want of public patronage Sir Ashton Lever w-as obliged to dispose of his museum by lottery, and it fell to the lot of a Air. Parkinson, who built rooms on the Surrey side of the Thames, near Blackfriars Bridge, for its reception, and did everything in his pow-er to render it interesting to the public, but he w-as obliged to dispose of it by auction in 1806, when the w-hole of it w-as dispersed. Between the years 1792 and 1796, a handsome quarto volume was published, entitled "Museum Leverianum ; containing Select Specimens from the Museum of the late Sir Ashton Lever, Kt., with Descriptions in Latin and English. By George Shaw-, M.D., F.R.S." This volume, which w-as published by James Parkinson the proprietor of the collection at that time, w-as richly illustrated with full-page coloured engravings, some of which are very fine, but there does not appear to be much method in their arrangement. According to the report of Mr. John Church before the House of Commons, which is quoted in the beginning of the volume, this beautiful collection of specimens was by careful computation estimated to be of the value of upwards of ;f53,ooo. Dr. George Shaw, who was the author of numerous works upon natural history, and a lecturer upon the same subject, delivered several lectures upon the Leverian Museum, both before and after that collection was removed from Leicester House, which never failed to attract a numerous and scientific audience. Sir Ashton Lever died in 1788, of an apoplectic attack, while sitting on the bench w-ith the other magistrates at Manchester. 84 MARYLEBOXE. About the }-ear 1776, Mr. ^^'aring, father of the weU-known bowyer of Carohne Street, Bedford Square, being then resident w-ith Sir Ashton Lever at Leicester House, and having by continued application to business contracted an affection of the chest which the doctors could not relieve, resolved to try the effect of archery. He commenced, and continued the practice regularly, and ascribed his cure, which w-as perfect, solely to the use of the bow-. Sir Ashton Lever, seeing the good effect of archery, foUow-ed Mr. \^'aring's example, and w-as joined by a few friends, w-ho formed themselves into the Toxophilite Society. The practice of archery took place on the law-n at the back of Leicester House. Prince George of ^^'ales (afterw-ards George IV.), w-ho w-as fond of archer}-, shot w-ith the members of this Society, at Leicester House, and on his becoming patron of the Societ}-, in 1787, it assumed the title of " Royal," by w-hich it has ever since been distinguished. William I\'., the Prince Consort, and the Prince of \\^ales have been patrons subsequentl}-. Among the plate belonging to this Society are the large silver shield given to the Archers' Company b}- Queen Catherine of Braganza, consort of Charles II., and silver arrows of the same and earlier periods. In 1791, the Society rented from the Duke of Bedford grounds lying on the east side of Gower Street, where the houses on the west side of Torrington Square now stand ; and also rented rooms and cellars in what w-as at that period called Charlotte Street, but now Bloomsbury Street (not man}- doors from New- Oxford Street). In 1805, the Archery Grounds being required for buildings, the Society's property remained in charge of Mr. Wearing, in Charlotte Street, Bedford Square, until 1821, when Mr. \\'aring rented a piece of ground about four acres in extent, at £7 per acre, situated at Bayswater, on the estate of the Bishop of London. Its exact position was opposite the point of separation betw-een Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, lying on the east side of \\'estbourne Street, and extending from the Oxford Road northwards to the Grand Junction Road at Sussex Gardens. In the year 1834, the Society obtained possession of a most eligible piece of ground, of about six acres in extent, from the Department of Woods and Forests. This is situated in Regent's Park, near the Royal '''* ^r w , - ^*i^ n^ ZViuiiti(.JtM«fT>p4nf'iy TitC^nyit^t rapiy IH TMIS mis (S-IE, MT g> S'.^fi^IS.IEo Subscnptou Arch.ear-y Rooms THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 85 Botanic Society's Gardens, and upon it was erected a buUding known as the Archers' Hall. On account of the plantations, the ground is seldom seen from the road. There is a graveUed path enclosing the whole area, which, excepting the greensward reserved for the targets, is tastefully laid out with clumps of trees and flowering shrubs, and beds with a profusion of flowers. The ceiling and walls of the hall are handsomely panelled and decorated w-ith the arms of the Society. The lockers around the hall bear the arms of the members. There are stags' heads upon the w-aUs, and the windows are partially filled with painted glass, representing the arms of the founder, presidents, and patrons. The London Skating Club have a building at the south-west end of the Royal Toxophilite Society's grounds, which, during a portion of the winter, is flooded with water for the purpose of skating, when the weather is sufficiently severe to render that sport possible. "The laws of the Toxophilite Society," instituted in the }'ear 1781, and revised and altered in the year 1791, set forth that the members of the Society are limited to two hundred, and " shall meet every Tuesda}- and Frida}', from the Fifteenth of April to the Fifteenth of October yearly, at Five o'Clock in the Afternoon, upon the Toxophilite Ground, Bedford Square, for the Purpose of shooting, of transacting the Business of the Society, and afterwards of supping together ; which Meetings shall be called The Summer Meetings ; and on the Third Tuesday in the Month of February, yearly, at Three o'Clock, for the Purpose of transacting the Business of the Society, and afterwards of dining together (at such House as the Majority of the Members present at the last Summer Meeting shall agree upon), which Meeting shall be called The Annual Winter Meeting ; and also on such Target Days as are hereinafter appointed. That there shall not be any Business transacted upon any Target Day except the particular Business relating to the Target, nor at any Summer Meeting before Eight o'clock, or after Supper ; nor at the Winter Meeting after Dinner ; nor unless there shall be present, at such Summer or Winter Meeting, Nine Members or more." The admission of members was by baUot, two black balls excluding the candidate. A sum of three guineas entrance-fee was charged, in 86 MARYLEBOXE. addition to the annual subscription of three guineas. The prescribed uniform of the Society was as follows : " A Green Cloth Coat and \Vhite ^^^aistcoat and Breeches of Cloth, or Kerseymere, with Gilt Arrow Buttons, White Stockings, and Black Hussar Half Boots ; a Black Round Hat, with the Prince of Wales's Button, a double Gold Loop, and One Black Cock Feather ; " shooting accoutrements, " A Black Leather Brace, a Buff-coloured Leather Belt, with a Pouch and a Green Tassel." Mr. Thomas W-^aring, ^\-ho in 1814 wrote " A Treatise on Archery ; or. The Art of Shooting w-ith the Long Bow," mentions, in a list of model law-s for the government of archery societies, one of the articles of the Toxophilite Society, which w-as " that if any Member marry, he shall treat the rest with a Marriage Feast." The same writer, at the end of the book, gives a list of thirty-three toxophilite societies which had been or w-ere in existence within a few years of the compilation of the list. THE MARYLEBONE CRICKET CLUB. The mere mention of this famous club suggests to every admirer of our national game many interesting memories and associations. So great a part has this club played in the cricket of the past, and so important is its position at present, that if the chapter w-hich refers to its doings were eliminated, the history of English cricket would be shorn of one of its chief glories. The rules of the game of cricket, as made by this club, are followed by cricketers in aU parts of the world, and so great and uni versal is the estimation in which its decisions are held, that it has justly acquired a right to the proud designation of the " Parhament of Cricket." Mr. Andrew Lang, in writing about the history of cricket, says of the M.C.C., "The club may be said to have sprung from the ashes ofthe White Conduit Club, dissolved in 1787. One Thomas Lord, by the aid of some members of the older association, made a ground in the space which is now Dorset Square. This w-as the first ' Lord's.' " Subsequently, Thomas Lord found it necessary to remove to North Bank, and finally, in 1814, to the present ground at St. John's Wood. Mr. Ward bought the lease of the ground from Lord in 1825, " at a most exorbitant rate;" and, in 1830, Dark bought the remainder of the lease MARYLEBOXE CRICKET CLUB. 87 from him. The first recorded cricket match played on the new ground was M.C.C. V. Hertfordshire, June 22, 1814. In 1816, the club reviewed its " laws," the result of which review is recorded in Lillywhite's " Scores," i. 285. In 1825, the pavihon w-as burnt, after a Winchester and Harrow match. Upon that occasion many of the cricket records were destroyed, and no complete list of the presidents of the club is known to exist. Since the fire the most notable presidents have been Ponsonby, Grimston, Darnley, and Coventry. The renowmed Mr. iVislabie was secretary till his death in 1842. Mr. Kynaston and Mr. Fitzgerald were other celebrated secretaries. In 1868 the club purchased a lease of ninety-nine years, at the cost of eleven thousand pounds. There have been recent additions to the area, which is now six or seven acres in extent, and permanent stands are erected on it, by means of which visitors can sit and see the matches. Lord's is celebrated as the scene of matches between Eton and Harrow, Oxford and Cambridge, Gentlemen and Pla}-ers, &c. In connection with the old cricket-ground, now known as Dorset Square, it may be recorded that it was occasionally used as an exercising ground by the St. Marylebone Volunteers, and in 1799 the stand of colours was presented to the regiment in that ground, in the presence of a vast concourse of the nobility and gentry who attended on the occasion. It is interesting, too, from having been the scene of M. Garnerin's second balloon ascent in this country. In the early part of the present century, boUoon ascents were sufficiently rare to cause intense popular excitement, and Garnerin's ascent on the 5th of July, 1802, was an event which drew an immense number of spectators, including a large number of the aristocracy and nobility ; and even royalty itself was represented in the person of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, who, as an old account says, " attended several ladies of distinction in the ground." Garnerin, who was accompanied by Edward Hawke Locker, Esq., was provided with a letter of recommendation to any gentleman in whose grounds or neighbourhood the balloon might happen to descend. The foUowing is a copy : — "July 5, 1802. " We the undersigned, having been present at the ascension of M. Garnerin, with his balloon, this afternoon, and witnessed 88 MARYLEBOXE. the entire satisfaction of the public, beg leave to recommend him to the notice of any gentleman in whose neighbourhood he may happen to descend. " Signed, " George P. W. " G. Devonshire. " Besborough. " Cathcart." From the contents of this letter it appears probable that some preliminary ascent was made, perhaps with the balloon secured by ropes. At an}- rate, when the balloon was liberated, it rose in a beautiful and majestic manner. Garnerin had a parachute, constructed of a stout cotton texture, with a circular aperture of a foot and a half diameter in the -centre. In this aperture terminated the tube containing the rope by which the parachute was annexed to the balloon. It was the intention of this daring aeronaut to descend from his balloon by means of this contrivance, but he was prevented by the disturbed state of the elements. Owing to the density of the atmosphere, the balloon and its intrepid passengers were out of sight within three minutes from the time of starting, and an immense number of people were left gazing upon the wide expanse, and greatly excited. Notwithstanding the violence of the wind, the adventurers rose to the height of a mile and a half, and descended at five minutes past five o'clock, without the least injury, at Chingford, near Epping Forest, having travelled a space of seventeen miles in a little more than a quarter of an hour. Such interest had this famous aeronaut excited, that for several hours before the ascent all the metropolis was in an uproar ; many accidents happened, and many depredations were committed. Mr. Locker afterwards published an account of his aerial voyage, and says in conclusion: — "Although the mob w-hich surrounded us on our descent were, as usual, both troublesome and officiously impertinent, we received great attention and assistance from Mr. Hughes of the Stamp Office, London, and several other gentlemen who beheld our arrival. Attention would, however, have been insured to us, if necessary, by the paper put into the hands of M. Garnerin, signed by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and other persons of distinction." THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. Although from a scientific and recreative point of view this institution is of great popular interest, it does not come within the scope of the )Tf^f/'.''fs b. wm-'^K: ROYAL BOTAXIC GARDEXS. 89 present writer to give anything beyond a very few of the chief facts in relation to its history. The Zoological Society of London was founded in 1826 for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and exhibition of specimens of the animal kingdom alive or properly preserved. The principal founders were Sir Humphrey Davey and Sir Stamford Raffles. At the present time the President of the Societ}- is Professor W. H. Flower, LL.D., F.R.S. ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY'S GARDENS. This society, w-hich is essentially a scientific institution, was founded and incorporated in the year 1839 for the promotion of botany in all its branches. The grounds, about eighteen acres in extent, and occupying the whole of the area enclosed by the road known as the " Inner Circle," are most beautifully laid out with a great many varieties of trees, shrubs, and plants. The conservatory, which was designed by Decimus Burton, affords space for two thousand visitors. One small house is specially devoted to the cultivation of specimens of the magnificent "Victoria Regia." There is a museum within these gardens, in w-hich are exhibited an interesting series of woods ; costumes made of vegetable substances, from Tahiti and the other Society Islands ; gums ; wax models of fruits and flow-ers, including those of the leaves and blossoms of the " Victoria Regia ;" fossil trees and plants ; and numerous other objects of botanical interest. Among the trees in the gardens is one not very vigorous specimen, which bears the following descriptive label : — " Napoleon's Willow, grown from a cutting brought from St. Helena by Capt. Shea in 1821. Planted here in 1842." THE MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL. The following interesting particulars of this institution are taken from " A Brief Historical Account of the Origin and Progress of the Middlesex Hospital," prefixed to the annual report. The Middlesex Hospital was instituted in the month of August, 1745, for sick and lame patients ; and in 1747 a ward was opened for the reception of lying-in married women. 90 MARYLEBOXE. The hospital consisted, at first, of a building in Windmill Street, Tot tenham Court Road, but this being found incommodious and inadequate, some of the most active promoters of the charity proposed to build, by sub scriptions among the nobilit}'', gentr}- and others, a new and commodious hospital in the neighbourhoood. A convenient site presented itself in the " Mary-lc-Bonc Fields," as they were then called, and a lease of the same having been obtained from Charles Berners, Esq., for the term of 999 }-ears, at a ground rent of £15 per annum, the building was com menced after the design of J. Paine, Esq., Architect. The Right Honourable Hugh, then Earl, afterw-ards Duke of Northumberland, laid the first stone of the present structure, w-ith the customary solemnities, on the 15th May, 1755. It became necessary in the course of time, partly from want of funds, to close the lying-in wards, and since the year 1807, the mid- \vifery patients, instead of being admitted into the hospital, have been attended at their own habitations under the direction of the physician- accoucheur. This department of the charity has so greatly increased, that attendance w-as given during 1870 to 992 poor women during their confinement. In the year 1792 a most humane and charitable benefactor, whose name, at his earnest desire, w-as concealed, fitted up a ward for the admission of patients afflicted with cancer, and settled the interest of ;£"4000 Three per Cent. Consolidated bank annuities for ever, by way of endowment, in aid of the cancer establishment. The death of Samuel Whitbread, Esq. (1796) made known the secret that he was the munifi cent benefactor w-hose name had been so far concealed. Since his death the cancer fund has been augmented by other donations and bequests, and especially by a legacy bequeathed by Mrs. Alithea Maria Stafford ; and in the year 1854 by a bequest in the will of Sir Joseph de Courcy Laffan, Bart. These endowments have enabled the governors to appropriate three wards, viz., " Whitbread, Staff'ord, and Laffan," exclusively to females suffering from cancer, besides providing accommodation for men afflicted with the same disease. This charity is distinct in itself, and it is believed unique through out the world. MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL. 91 Towards the close of the past century causes, not now very distinctly knowm, interrupted the favourable progress of the Middlesex Hospital ; many annual governors discontinued their subscriptions, the hospital be came involved in debt, and most of the wards were shut up. The Revolution in France drove to England a number of emigrants, and of these many were French clerg}'men, in a state of utter destitu tion. The w-estern w-ing of the hospital w-as made a receptacle for a large bod}- of the sick French clergy and lay emigrants, and for several years they here enjoyed freedom from persecution. When, after a long interval of exile, permission was in 1814 given to them to return to their own country, those who survived availed themselves of the privilege and took their departure, expressing great and lasting gratitude for the quietude and comforts they had enjoyed. The merit of having retrieved the establishment from almost com plete ruin is due to the late Lord Robert Seymour, who interested him self in its behalf, and by his personal influence prevailed upon a great number of the nobility, clergy, and gentry to join in the good cause. He obtained for the hospital the patronage of the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., w-hose example was followed by William IV., and her majesty Queen Victoria. In the year 1812, a Samaritan Fund was proposed by Richard Cartwright, Esq., one of the surgeons, which has since been established upon an enlarged and permanent basis. Its objects are to afford temporary assistance to poor convalescent patients, whose residence in the hospital is no longer necessary, but who still require medical aid as out-patients ; to forward poor patients, especially cripples, to their homes ; to supply flannel, linen, or other necessaries to those patients whose diseased condition may require such comforts ; and for other charitable purposes. The Samaritan Fund is altogether a distinct and separate Fund, no part of the donations or subscriptions for the general support or maintenance of the hospital being applicable to it ; it is not distributed indiscriminately to all applicants, the assistance granted being voted at the weekly board, on the application of the chaplain, either from his own knowledge that the patient is deserving and necessitous, or at the recommendation of one of the physicians, surgeons, or visiting governors. 92 MARYLEBOXE. During the year 1869, seven hundred and fifty patients were relieved from this fund, and sixt}'-eight were sent to the convalescent hospitals at Walton, Seaford, Margate, Eastbourne, etc. The building of the wings was not completed tiU the year 1775, since w-hich time no addition had been made to the Middlesex Hospital untU 1834, although during that period two of the most extensive parishes in the metropolis had grown up about it. In April, 1834, the governors deemed it expedient to extend each wing of the hospital thirty feet towards the street, and the whole was paid for by subscriptions raised for that specific purpose, without trenching upon the funds of the hospital. It was resoh-ed, at a quarterly general court held in May, 1835, that a medical school should be erected by subscription. The buildings were commenced in July, and completed by the ist of October. A new operating theatre was built upon the ground floor soon after. A charter w-as obtained, through the exertions of William Tooke, Esq., on the 30th of March, 1836. In 1848, extensive and costly improvements were made. New rooms w-ere provided for the superior nurses, and accommodation was afforded for ninety additional patients, so that the hospital now contains 310 beds, instead of 220, as formerly. In 1848, a ward was opened for the reception of cases of diseases peculiar to women, and the governors were enabled, at the same time, under the direction of the w-ill of the late Lady Murray, to open the Murray Ward, as a memorial to her deceased husband. The museum and the school buildings have both been enlarged, and at the present time the inmates treated number upwards of two thousand, and the out-patients over twenty thousand. CHAPTER vn. MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES, &c. Joanna Southcott.— Mrs. Siddons.— Anecdote of Handel.— Thomas Holcroft.— Horatia " Nelson." — Marylebone Celebrities: — Mary Lamb, Edward Gibbon, Henry Fuseli, "Berners Street Hoax," Faraday, Wilkie, Flaxman, James Barry, Dr. Johnson, George Romney, John Constable, Thomas Hood, Landseer, Thomas Moore. Barry Cornwall, Lyell, Leigh Hunt, Dickens, Macready, Nollekens, Anna Jameson, Samuel Lover, Benjamin West, Thomas Stothard, J. M. W. Turner, Thomas Campbell, Frederick Marryat, Sydney Smith, J. G. Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott, Henry Hallam, Admiral Lord Hood, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, William Pitt, Lady Hester Stanhope.— Miscellanea. — Cato Street Conspiracy. — Verley's Charity.— Marylebone Rates, &c. ¦ • OANNA SOUTHCOTT, the religious fanatic who made so such commotion in her day, was born in Devonshire, about the }-ear 1750, of humble parents, &2^^ and was chiefly employed in Exeter as a domestic ¦^ servant; but having joined the Methodists, and become acquainted with a man of the name of Sanderson, who laid claim to the spirit of prophecy, she advanced to a like pretension ; and wrote and dictated prophecies, sometimes in prose, and sometimes in rhymed doggrel. In one of her publications she says : — " As I have began to publish to the world, I shall give some short account of my Life, which hath been singular, from my youth up to this day. I shall omit former particulars, and begin w-ith informing the Reader, that, in 1792, I was strangely visited, by day and night, concerning what was coming upon the whole earth. I was then ordered to set it down in writing. I obeyed, though not without strong external opposition ; and so it has continued to the present time." She appears to have imagined 94 MARYLEBOXE. herself to have been favoured with a great number of visions, of ^vhich the following, told in her ow-n w-ords, will serve as a specimen : — " I dreamed I saw- my Father s-^veeping out the barn's floor clean, and would not suffer the wheat to be brought in the barn. He appeared to me to be in anger. When I awaked, I was answered, ' It is thy Heavenly Father is angr}' w-ith the land ; and if they do not repent as Nineveh did, they shall sow, but not reap ; neither shall they gather into their barns. Then shall come three years, wherein there shall be neither eating nor harvest." She announced herself as the woman spoken of in the 12th chapter of the Revelation, and obtained considerable sums by the sale of seals which w-ere to secure the salvation of those who purchased them. •- \ Joanna Southcott. The accompanying portrait is copied from an old engraving, which bears underneath the follow-ing inscription :— " The Cunning Woman, who JOAXXA SOUTHCOTT. 95 found the Philosopher's Stone in the shape of an old Seal ; Saw the Devil in the shape of a Pig ; Two needy Apothecaries in the shape of Spanish Trumpeters ; Lives comfortably w-ith a Layw-er constantly at her Elbow. N.B. — No Portrait can be genuine but Mr. Sharp's. A. Flat." Joanna Southcott came up to London upon the invitation and at the expense of William Sharp, the eminent engraver, who is evidently the man alluded to in the above inscription. Among other gross and impious absurdities she gave out that she w-as to be dehvered of the 96 MARYLEBOXE. Prince of Peace, at midnight on the 19th of October, 1814, and elaborate preparations w-ere made in consequence. An expensive cradle was made, and considerable sums w-ere contributed by her followers, in order to have other things prepared in a st\-le w-orth}- of the expected Shiloh. A\'hen the stated time came, no birth took place. Southcott, at that time upwards of sixty years of age, took to her bed, and, after a confinement there of ten w-eeks, died on the 27th of December, 1814. Her death occurred in Manchester Street, Manchester Square. Her bod}- w-as opened after her decease, and the appearance of pregnancy w-hich had deceived her foUow-ers, and perhaps herself, w-as found to have arisen from dropsy. On the 31st of December, her bod}- w-as removed to an undertakers in Oxford Street, where it remained until the interment. On the third of Januai"}-, it w-as carried in a hearse, so remarkably plain as to give it the appearance of one returning from, rather than proceeding to church, accompanied by one coach, equally plain, in which were three mourners. In this manner tlic}- proceeded to the cemeter}- adjoining St. John's Wood Chapel. So w-ell had their arrangements been planned for the insurance of prixac}-, that there w-as scarcely a person in the ground unconnected with the funeral party. The grave was taken, and notice given of the funeral under the name of Goddard. Neither the clergyman of St. John's who read the service, nor any of the subordinate persons connected with the chapel, w-ere apprised of the real name of the person about to be buried, till the funeral reached the chapel. On the west side of this cemetery, opposite No. 44 on the wall, and 26 feet from it, is a flat stone underneath which are deposited the remains of this remarkable w-oman. The stone is enclosed within plain iron railings and bears the following inscription : — "In Memory of JOANNA SOUTHCOTT, wlio departed this life, December 27th, 1814, aged 64 years. ' While through all thy wondrous days. Heaven and Earth enraptur'd gaz'd. While vain Sages think they know Secrets, Thou Alone canst show. Time alone will tell what hour, Thou'lt appear in "Greater" Power.' Sabincns." MRS. SIDDONS. 97 On a black marble tablet let into the wall opposite the above spot, is the following inscription : — • " Behold the time shall come, that these Tokens which I have told Thee, shall come to pass, and the Bride shall Appear, and She, coming forth, shall be seen, that now is withdrawn from the earth." 2d of Esdras, Chap. 7th, ver. 26th. " For the Vision is yet for an appointed time, but at the end it shall speak, and Not Lie, though it tarry. Wait for it ; Because it will Surely Come, it will not tarry." Habakkuk, Chap. 2, ver. 3d. "And whosoever is delivered from the Foresaid evils, shall see My Wonders." 2d of Esdras, Chap. 7, ver. 27th. (See her Writings.) " This Tablet was Erected By the sincere Friends of the above. Anno Domini, 1828." It may be added, as a somewhat curious fact, that the engraver, William Sharp, also died from dropsy, in 1824. MRS. SIDDONS. Upper Baker Street contains the house in which this celebrated and talented actress hved from the year 1817, after her retirement from the stage, until her death (in the year 1831), w-hich took place at the house numbered 27. The fact is recorded upon an inscribed medallion affixed to the front of the house by the Society of Arts. The house still contains some memorials of Mrs. Siddons. On the staircase is a small side window of painted glass, containing medallion portraits of Shakspere, Milton, Spenser, Cowley, and Dryden. This is chiefly interesting from the fact that it is the work of Mrs. Siddons, who designed it and put it up. The bow window looking north commands a view over Regent's Park to Hampstead ; and there is a tradition (in all likelihood an authentic one) to the effect that, when the mansions in Cornwall Terrace were about to be brought up to the very gates of the Park, Mrs. Siddons made a pathetic appeal to the Prince Regent, who with gracious condescension gave orders that her " country view " should be spared. H gS MARYLEBONE. Mrs. Siddons lived a simple, unostentatious hfe, quite content, it is said, with her salary of twelve pounds a -week. She retired from the stage in 1812 in her favourite character of Lady Macbeth, but she appeared again occasionally on special occasions between 1812 and 1817. She also gave public readings from Shakspere at the Argyle Rooms, during two seasons. In her wiU she bequeathed her leasehold house in Upper Baker Street to her daughter, together with all her pictures and furniture; and to her son she left an inkstand made from Shakspere's mulberry tree, and a pair of gloves said to have been worn by the poet himself, which had been presented to her by Mrs. Garrick. Mrs. Siddons was buried at Paddington in a now obsolete cemetery, recently converted into a very pretty ornamental garden and promenade, brilliant with flowery parterres, and trim w-ith neat gravel walks. Her grave is marked only by a slab of cement, bearing no legible inscription on its face, and distinguished only by a half obliterated legend cut in its upper edge. ANECDOTE OF HANDEL. The follow-ing amusing anecdote of Handel was communicated to one of Hone's publications by a writer signing himself "J. H." He was a grandson of the Rev. John Fountayne, who rented Marylebone Manor House, and used it as a school for young gentlemen : — " Having been at this school from my infancy almost, down to 1790, I have a perfect recollection of this fine and interesting house, with its beautiful saloon and gallery, in which private concerts were held occa sionally, and the first instrumental performers attended. My grandfather, as I have been told, was an enthusiast in music, and cultivated, most of all, the friendship of musical men, especially of Handel, who visited him often, and had a great predilection for his society. This leads me to relate an anecdote which I had on the best authority. . . . While Marylebone Gardens were flourishing, the enchanting music of Handel, and probably of Arne, was often heard from the orchestra there. One evening, as my grandfather and Handel were walking together and alone, a new piece was struck up by the band. ' Come, Mr. Fountayne,' said Handel, ' let us sit down and listen to this piece — I want to know your opinion of it.' Down they sat, and after some time the old parson, MRS. SIDDONS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE TRAGIC MUSE, (From an Engraving after SiR JosHaA REYNOLDS^. THOMAS HOLCROFT.— HORATIA "NELSON." 99 turning to his companion, said, ' It is not worth hstening to — it's very poor stuff.' ' You are right, Mr. Fountayne,' said Handel, ' it is very poor stuff — I thought so myself when I had finished it.' The old gentleman, being taken by surprise, was beginning to apologise, but Handel assured him there was no necessity; that the music was really bad, having been composed hastily, and his time for the production limited ; and that the opinion given was as correct as it was honest." THOMAS HOLCROFT. This well-known writer was of humble origin, having been originally, it was said, a shoemaker in the north. Possessing great natural endowments, and much industry, he acquired such a knowledge of the modern languages as enabled him to translate from them with great facility. He was for some time a performer in the provincial theatres, and soon after his coming up to London, in 1778, he obtained an inferior engagement at Drury Lane Theatre, but never distinguished himself as an actor. He produced several pieces for the stage, one of which, " The Road to Ruin," had a great run, and is still deservedly very popular. Holcroft was the author of " The Adventures of Hugh Trevor," " Memoirs of Bryan Perdue," some poems, and numerous translations from the French and German. He died at his house in Clipstone Street, Marylebone, on the 23rd of March, 1809, and w-as buried in the larger cemetery at Marylebone on the ist of April. HORATIA "NELSON." Lady Hamilton's daughter by Lord Nelson was baptized in the old church at Marylebone on the 3rd of May, 1803. The birth took place in Sir William Hamilton's own house, where every care and precaution had been adopted to keep the matter as secret as possible from him and one or two members of his own family. Professional attendance was not necessary, where a skilful and well-practised mother resided on the spot ; and as soon as the patient was capable of moving about, which, owing to her remarkable constitution, was tolerably early, the infant was conveyed by her in a large muff, and in her own carriage, to the house of the person who had been provided to take charge of it in Little Titchfield Street. On this occasion, her ladyship was 100 MARYLEBONE. accompanied by Lord Nelson's confidential agent, Mr. Oliver, who had been brought up from the age of tw-elve years in the house and under the protection of Sir Wiliam Hamilton at Naples, and was afterwards employed on various kinds of missions in that country, Germany, and England. The condition of the infant, w-hen brought in this manner to the appointed nurse, was deplorable enough, and plainly showed the hurried process by which it had been ushered into the world. Now it is for the reader to judge w-hether anyone but a mother would have conve}-ed a new-born babe in this extraordinarj- manner, in her owm carriage, to the house of a woman with whom she had no acquaintance, and that too accompanied by an old confidential steward. But should any doubt still be started on the subject, after such palpable evidence, the subsequent acknowledgment of the infant by the parties w-ho w-ere most concerned in the history of her origin must wholly remove the smallest shade of scepticism from the mind of the incredulous. That Lady Hamilton made no scruple of admitting the relation, after the death of her husband, can be easily proved; and in what a tender estimation the noble lord regarded the child, the world has not to learn. It has been said, indeed, that being his god-chUd, and adopted by him on that account, his affection for her became ardent even to a degree of paternal fondness. But the truth is, that in the proper sense of the word, she was not his god-child, for he neither appeared at the font in person, nor by proxy. About a fortnight after the birth, indeed, the child was taken in a coach to Sir WUliam Hamilton's house, that she might be shown to Lord Nelson, who actually came to town for that purpose. At this time also the child certainly w-as baptised, but not by the curate or minister of the parish. That ceremony, in w-hatever way it was performed, had not been conducted according to the legitimate rules of the church, which could authorize a registry of the fact ; and, therefore, it was found expedient, about two years afterwards, to have the rite duly solemnized in the parish Church of St. Marylebone, where a curious difficulty occurred for the want of proper instructions being given to the person whose place it was to mention the name, and to describe the parents. It is not a little remarkable, that the friend of his lordship, who privately baptised the infant, and who might be supposed to have MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. loi a thorough knowledge of the forms and orders of the church, did not take due care to give the necessary directions with respect to the name and parentage of the child. When the usual question was asked by the officiating minister, he received for answ-er, that the name of the child was " Horatia Nelson," by which he accordingly baptised her, though it w-as intended by her friends that the first should have been the Christian, and the latter the surname. At the time of the registry this error was discovered when too late, and as the parents could not be stated w-ith safety, the entry presents the peculiarity of a child regularly baptised, and registered without the name of either father or mother. The name of Thompson, afterwards added to the baptismal one of Horatia Nelson, was merely adopted from necessity to complete the registry. MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. The large number of celebrated literary, artistic, dramatic, and other characters w-ho, at one time or other, have made their home in Maryle bone, renders it impossible to give, in the present place, anything more than the following brief details, which, for convenience of reference, are placed under an alphabetical arrangement. The list is certainly far from complete, as all such lists must be more or less, but it is hoped that such facts as are given will have some interest for the inhabitants of the district. Alpha Road. Mary Lamb died in Alpha Road, St. John's Wood, and was buried in the same grave as her brother Charles, 28th May, 1847. Bentinck Street. In 1772, Edward Gibbon took the house No. 7, Bentinck Street, Manchester Square, where some of the happiest years of his life were spent, and where w-ere written the first volumes of The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Gibbon himself describes this house as " the best house in the world." In his Correspondence he writes, September 10, 1774 : — " Yesterday morning, about half an hour after seven, as I was destroying an army of barbarians, I heard a double rap 102 MARYLEBONE. at the door, and my friend was introduced. After some idle conversation, he told me that if I was desirous of being in Parha ment, he had an independent seat very much at my service. This is a fine opening for me, and if next spring I should take my seat and publish my book, it wUl be a very memorable era in my life." Both anticipations were realized. The first edftion of "The Decline and FaU" was exhausted in a few days, and his fame as one of the most distinguished of Enghsh historians became weU estabhshed. Berners Street. Henry Fuseh, the eminent painter, was, in 1804, living at No. 13, in this street, where he w-as visited by Haydon, who, in his Atito- biography, -WTites : — " I followed her (the maid-servant) into a gaUery or show room, enough to frighten anybody away at twOight. Galvanized devils, malicious witches brewing their incantations, Satan bridging chaos, and springing upwards like a pyramid of fire. Lady Macbeth, Paolo and Francesca, Falstaff and Mrs. Quickly — humour, pathos, terror, blood, and murder met me at every look. I expected the floor to give way. I fancied Fuseli himself to be a giant. I heard his footstep, and saw a httle bony hand slide round the edge of the door, followed by a little white-headed, lion-faced man in an old flannel dressing-gown tied round his waist with a piece of rope, and upon his head the bottom of Mrs. Fuseli's work-basket." Berners Street is also celebrated as the scene of Hook's " Berners Street Hoax." In 1810, when Hook was in London (although he had no settled home there at that time), he spent six weeks in concocting and elaborating a hoax, the effects of which he is said to have w-it nessed from a safe w-indow over the way. Mrs. Tottingham, the unhappy victim, lived at No. 54, Berners Street, w-hen there came to her door hundreds of tradespeople bearing goods of all sizes and descrip tions, from a mahogany coffin to an ounce of snuff, ordered by Hook in her name, to be delivered at the same hour ; while at the same hour, at the invitation of Mrs. Tottingham (per T. H.), came as well MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. 103 bishops, ministers of State, doctors in haste to cure her bodily aUments, lawyers to make her will, barbers to shave her, mantua-makers to fit her, — men, women, and children on every conceivable errand. The damage done and the confusion created were very great. Blandford Street. Michael Faraday hved at No. 2, Blandford Street. Bolsover Street. David Wilkie w-as residing at No. 8, Bolsover Street (then known as Norton Street) when the exhibition of his picture. The Village Politicians, at the Royal Academy Exhibition, attracted so much attention. Buckingham Street. No. 7, Buckingham Street, distinguished by a memorial tablet, was the house in which John Flaxman lived and, in 1820, died. Castle Street East. James Barry, the artist, lived at No. 36, Castle Street East. The following amusing details of his method of living are taken from Wilmot Harrison's Memorable London Houses : — " From thence he emerged morning after morning (in summer at five o'clock) and thither he returned usually at dusk during the six years — 1777-83 — that he was engaged on his colossal work of decoration at the Society of Arts, where, according to the housekeeper, ' his violence w-as dreadful, his oaths horrid, and his temper like insanity.' He is described as ' a little shabby pock-marked man, in an old dirty coat with a scare crow wig,' living for the most part on bread and apples, and working for the print-sellers at night — either at home or at the Society of Arts (where tea was made for him in a quart pot) — to keep the wolf from the door, untU the payment of the sum of £750 at the expiration of his gigantic task enabled him to buy an annuity of £60 a year. It is recorded that Burke, who was a great friend to the struggling artist, and had assisted in sending him for improvement to Italy in 1765- 1770, once dined with Barry in his painting loft on beef steaks, of which he superintended the cooking, while Barry went to a neighbouring public- house to fetch porter, the foaming head of which he lamented on his return that a high wind had carried off as he crossed Titchfield Street." 104 MARYLEBONE. In the year 1737, or shortly after, Dr. Samuel Johnson had lodgings in this street, but the actual house in which he resided has not been identified. Cavendish Square. George Romney, the artist, towards the close of the last century, hved at No. 32, Cavendish Square. "The man in Cavendish Square" was his customary designation by Sir Joshua Reynolds, his rival in the early part of his career. Romney's studios still exist. He was preceded in the tenancy of the house by Francis Cotes, R.A., and succeeded by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A., and afterwards by Sir Jones Quain and Richard Quain. E. D. Mapother, Esq., M.D., purchased the house in 1887, and I am indebted to that gentleman for these facts about the history of his interesting home. Charlotte Street. John Constable, artist, for many years resided at 76, Charlotte Street. Elm Tree Road. Thomas Hood lived, and w-rote The Song of the Shirt, at No. 17, Elm Tree Road, St. John's Wood. Foley Street. No. 33, Foley Street, was the home of Sir Edw-in Landseer, R.A., the great animal painter and sculptor. No. 37 and No. 40 were occupied by Henry Fuseli ; the first from 1788 to 1792, the second in 1800. George Street. No. 85, George Street, near Montague Square, was the house in w-hich lodged Thomas Moore, on his first coming to London at twenty years of age, to be entered as a student at the Middle Temple. Harley Street. No. 38, Harley Street, was for some years prior to 1861 the residence of Barry Cornwall (Bryan Waller Procter.) Sir Charies LyeU lived at No. 73, Hariey Street from 1854 to 1875. Marylebone Road. From 1817 to 1819, Leigh Hunt resided at No. 77, on the south side of Marylebone Road. MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. 105 At the corner of High Street is No. i, Devonshire Terrace, a double- bow-fronted house wherein Charies Dickens lived from 1840 to 1850, and wrote many of his best know-n w-orks. At No. I, York Gate, W^iUiam Charles Macready lived. Mortimer Street. Joseph Nollekens, the eminent sculptor, lived, and in 1823 died, in a house in this street formerly known as No. 9, and subsequently converted into two houses, and numbered 44 and 45. The corner room — now one of the two shops into which the house is divided — which had two windows, was dining and sitting-room and sitters' parlour. For many years tw-o pieces of old green canvas w-ere festooned at the lower parts of the windows as blinds. Mrs. Anna Jameson lived for many years in the house of her sister, No. 7, Mortimer Street, but all of the houses have been renumbered since that time. Samuel Lover lived in Mortimer Street subsequently to the year 1834. Newman Street. Benjamin West, P.R.A., lived and had his studio at No. 14, Newman Street. West died in the drawing room in 1820. His studio was used in 1830 as a place of worship by Edward Irving after his condemna tion by the Presbytery, and is now called St. Andrew's Hall. Thomas Stothard lived at No. 28, Newman Street, from 1794 until his death, which took place in 1834. Queen Anne Street. Joseph Mallord William Turner resided in a house in this street, which is described as having been in a very neglected condition during that artist's tenancy of it, and having a blistered dirty house-door and black-crusted windows. The house is gone, and Nos. 22 and 23 now occupy its site. Seymour Street. Between the years 1822 and 1828, Thomas Campbell lived at No. 18, Seymour Street. io6 MARYLEBONE. Spanish Place. Frederick Marryat lived at No. 3, Spanish Place, in 1842. Stratford Place. At No. 18, Stratford Place, Sydney Smith lived for some months about the year 1834. Sussex Place. No. 24, Sussex Place, was, in 1820, the residence of John Gibson Lockhart, the biographer of Sir Walter Scott, and here, on what was then the very verge of the metropolis. Sir Walter was accustomed to stay with his daughter, Mrs. Lockhart, on his visits to London. W^impole Street. Henry Hallam resided and wrote his great works. The History of the Middle Ages and Constitutional History of England, at No. 67, Wimpole Street. In the house No. 12 in the same street lived Admiral Lord Hood. Elizabeth Barrett Browming, at that time Miss Barrett, was living at No. 50, Wimpole Street, from 1836 until her marriage ten years later. The Cry of the Children was written in this house. The name of the street is taken from Wimpole, in Cambridgeshire, sold by the second Earl of Oxford to Lord Chancellor Hardwicke. York Place. No. 14, York Place, was the residence from 1802 to 1806, of W'illiam Pitt. Pitt's niece. Lady Hester Lucy Stanhope, then twenty- three years of age, came to live with him here in 1803. MISCELLANEA. The Cato Street Conspiracy. The street from whence this extravagant conspiracy is named is situated in Marylebone, near the Edgeware Road, but was afterwards named Horace Street. The immediate object of this plot was the assassination of the ministers of state. The originator of the idea was one Arthur Thistlewood, who was a man of some fortune and education. He was a subaltern jDje'vo2>jsbj[ire Fla I'jE^aiidWiMiPOEJE ^Street,. -ffrom lflie:N]E^^ STMamit x,je Bor?E,^^_.^ THE CATO STREET CONSPIRACY. 107 officer, first, in the militia, and afterwards in a regiment of the line, stationed in the West Indies. After resigning his commission, and spending some time in America, he passed into France, where he arrived shortly after the fall of Robespierre. There he imbibed revo lutionary ideas, and adopted the belief that the destruction of the institutions of his country was the only object worthy of the labours of a man. He sent a challenge to Lord Sidmouth, for which he was tried, and punished. Arthur Thistlewood. After his liberation in August, 1819, Thistlewood, actuated by a spirit of revenge, employed himself in forming connections with the most degraded of the lowest and poorest class. Ings, a butcher, Tidd and Brunt, shoemakers, and a man of colour named Davison, were his principal confidants. These men held meetings in a hired room in the neighbourhood of Gray's Inn Lane, where the necessity of murdering the ministers, and subverting the Government, was frequently discussed. At length, at a meeting held on Saturday, the 19th February, 1820, it w-as resolved that poverty did not allow them to delay their purposes any longer, and that, therefore, the ministers should be murdered io8 MARYLEBONE. separately, each in his ow-n house, on the following Wednesday. Meet ings were held on the Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, and the whole plan was arranged. On the last named da}-, however, Thistlewood was informed by a conspirator named Edw-ards, w-ho -was a spy in the pay of Government, that a cabinet dinner was to take place at Lord Harrow-by's house in Grosvenor Square on the morrow-. Thistlewood immediately procured a new-spaper, and, on reading the announcement, exclaimed, "It will be a rare haul to murder them altogether!" Fresh arrangements w-ere determined upon, and it was agreed that one of their number w-as to go to the door w-ith a note, and when it w-as opened, the others w-ere to rush in ; and while a part secured the servants, the remainder w-ere to force themselves into the apartment where the ministers were assembled, and murder them w-ithout mercy ; it was particularly specified that the heads of Lords Sidmouth and Castlereagh w-ere to be brought away in a bag. Trie Sf ^ bLe- I 8.2 o. The Wednesday w-as spent in preparing weapons and ammunition, and in w-riting proclamations ; and towards six in the evening, the conspirators assembled in a stable situated in Cato Street. The building contained tw-o rooms over the stable, accessible only by a VERLEY'S CHARITY. 109 ladder ; in the larger of which, a sentinel having been stationed below, the conspirators mustered, to the number of twenty-four or twenty- five, all busy in preparing for their sanguinary plot. The ministers, how-ever, had been made acquainted by Edw-ards, with every step that had hitherto been taken ; and a man named Hidon, who had been solicited to join in the plot, had warned Lord Harrowby of it, on Tuesday. The preparations for the dinner were continued, lest the conspirators should take alarm, though no dinner w-as in fact to be given. In the meantime a strong party of Bow Street Officers, headed by IMr. Birnie, proceeded to Cato Street, w-here they were met and supported by a detachment of Coldstream Guards, under the command of Captain Fitzclarence. The officers arrived about 8 o'clock, and entering the stable, mounted the ladder, and found the conspirators in the loft, on the point of proceeding to the execution of their scheme. Smithers, one of the officers, in attempting to seize Thistlewood, was pierced by him through the body, and immediately fell. The lights w-ere then extinguished, and some of the conspirators escaped through a window at the back of the premises. The military detachment now arrived, and by the joint exertions of the soldiers and officers, nine were taken that evening and conveyed to Bow Street. Thistlewood, among others, had escaped, but he was arrested next morning, in bed, in a house near Fitzroy Square. He was tried, condemned and, with four of his companions, executed on the ist of May, 1820, for high treason. Verley's Charity. Upon a benefaction table, affixed to the wall of a room adjoining -the vestry of the old parish church, is the foUowing inscription : — "Thomas Verley, late of this parish, gave ^50, the interest to be given in bread, viz., 12 penny loaves to the poor every Sabbath-day for ever, 1692." This money appears to have been received into the parish fund, and from the parish funds there are now provided every week 12 penny loaves, which are given away by the churchwardens every Sunday after morning service to poor old women of the parish, who attend at the church. — Further Report of the Charity Commissioners (1825) Vol. 14, p. 198. IIO MARYLEBONE. Marylebone Rates. The foUow-ing official returns to Parliament made in 1762 by John Austen, the vestry clerk of Marylebone at that period, will no doubt be read by many of the present ratepayers of Marylebone with considerable interest and curiosity. "The first rate for the poor made in May, 1761. — At 6d. in the pound. " Total of the rent-charge ;f 18,920. — At 7d. in the pound. "The second rate for the poor made in November, 1761. The -rates having increased, the total of the rent-charge amounts to ;^20,i94. — At 6d. in the pound. "The total rent-charge of the rate for cleansing the streets and repairing the highways, consolidated pursuant to Act of Parliament in which is included the landholders, amounts to ^^18,960. — At is. 6d. in the pound. "The lamp rate, by 29 George II. , is directed to be made on all persons inhabiting the streets, &c., where lamps are or shall be erected by order of the committee therein mentioned ; but as most of the inhabitants (especially persons of quality and distinction) chose to put up lamps at their own expense, w-hich they may do upon giving proper notice, the burthen at present lies chiefly upon the poorer sort of inhabitants. " The rent-charge fluctuates ; but is at present about ^206. " The present contractor has agreed with the committee to cleanse the streets for one year for £^70- " The composition with the trustees of the Turnpike road from St. Giles's pound to Kilburn bridge, in lieu of statute-work, and towards repairing the pavement of Oxford Street, is £75. " The present contract with the lamp-lighter, for hghting about 112 lamps, is £1 12s. per annum each." In the neighbourhood of the Middlesex Hospital there was in the last century a rope-walk, extending north to a considerable distance under the shade of tw-o magnificent rows of elms. This was a favorite spot of Richard W^ilson and Baretti, who frequently took a walk there together. BURIAL OF A SUICIDE. iii A curious instance of the burial of a suicide at cross-roads took place at St. John's Wood in the first quarter of the present century. Sir Charles Warwick Bampfylde, Bart., was shot in the street, in the open day, shortly after he had come out of his house in Montague Square, on the 7th of AprU, 1823. Moriand, the assassin, had formerly been in his service, and his wife was in Sir Charles's service at the time. Upon seeing that his aim had taken effect, Moriand discharged a second pistol into his own mouth, which killed him on the spot. This murder was committed while under the influence of jealousy, which was afterwards proved to have been entirely groundless. Sir Charles lingered till the 19th of April, when he expired in great agony. The jury which sat upon the body of the murderer, having returned a verdict of felo de se, his body was buried in the cross road, opposite St. John's Wood Chapel. Sir Charles was descended from one of the most dis tinguished families in Devonshire, and was in the 71st year of his age. The unsafe condition of the country-lanes in the neighbourhood of Marylebone eariy last century is illustrated in the following extract from The Evening Post newspaper (March 16, 1715) : — "On Wednesday last, four gentlemen were robbed and stripped in the fields between London and Mary-le-bon." On the 2ist of June, 1825, the square of houses formed by Great Titchfield Street, Wells Street, Mortimer Street, and Margaret Street, was nearly all destroyed by a dreadful fire, which commenced in the workshops of Mr. Crozet, carver and gUder, in Great Titchfield Street ; caused by a kettle containing a compound called French polish, boiling over, which set fire to some shavings of w-ood. The flames spread rapidly to the premises of Mr. Woolley, a stable-keeper ; Mr. Stoddart, a pianoforte maker ; Mr. Stout, who had a mahogany and timber-yard ; Mr. Messer, a coachmaker ; Messrs. Bolton and Sparrow, upholsterers ; the Chapel of Ease in Margaret Street ; Mr. Pears, perfumer ; Mr. Arnold, grocer; Miss Storer and Miss Vennes. In Mortimer Street, the houses of Mr. Wales, cabinet-maker; Mr. Hunt, card-maker; Mr. Reid, sofa and chair-maker ; Mr. Kensett, cabinet-maker ; and Messrs. Holt and Scheffer, were in a short time reduced to ruins. 112 MARYLEBONE. A party of the Guards soon arrived at the spot, and assisted the police officers in aiding the firemen, and preventing plunder. But all the exertions of the firemen, with a plentiful supply of w-ater, appeared to have no effect in extinguishing the flames. In the whole, not less than thirt}' houses and shops w-ere destroyed. More than one hundred families were thus depri\-ed of a home, and man}-, w-ho w-ere lodgers, lost all they possessed, excepting the property they carried about their persons. Among the property burnt were some of the valuable car\-ings belonging to the Duke of Rutland, which were deposited in one of the w-arehouses, and on w-hich an insurance to a large amount had been effected in the ^^'estminster Fire Office. The Duke of York, and several of the nobility, \-isited the ruins, and set on foot a subscription for the relief of those w-ho had suffered loss or injury by the fire. ST. PANCRAS. CESAR'S CAMP AT ST. PANCRAS, From a Drawing by Dr. Stukeley. CHAPTER VIII. ST. PANCRAS : EARLY HISTORY. The Brill; Dr. Stukeley's theory of its having been a Roman camp —Defensive works in 1643. — Pastoral character of the district. —-Value of land. —The name St. Pancras. —Manors of Cantelows (Kentish Town), Totenhall, Pancras, and Ruggemere. — King John's Palace.— The Adam and Eve. — " The Paddington Drag."— The Pinder of Wakefield. —Battle Bridge and King's Cross. ilk, .. -^ THE BRILL. PART of Somers Town is built upon the site of some ancient earthworks formerly known as " The Brill," the oi-igin of w-hich name has, with great probability, been sup posed by Dr. Stukeley to be a contraction of Bury Hill. The same learned anti quarian, who sometimes allowed his specu lations to be unduly influenced by his imagination, supposed these earthworks to be the remains of a Roman camp. He wrote sixteen pages in folio upon this entrenchment, which he expressly affirms to have been the camp of Caesar. He supposes it to have extended five hundred paces by four hundred, including a small moated site to the south of the church, and another to the north. " Quitting the language of conjecture," says Lysons, " the doctor points out the disposition of the troops, and the situation of each general's tent, with as much confidence as if he had himself been in the camp. Here was Caesar's praetorium ; here was stationed Mandubrace, King of London ; here were the quarters of M. Crassus, the Quaestor ; here was Cominius ; there the Gaulish princes, &c., &c. It is but ii6 ST. PANCRAS. justice to Dr. Stukeley's memory to mention that this account of Caesar's camp was not printed in his lifetime ; as he withheld it from the public, it is probable he was convinced that his imagination had carried him too far on this subject." Lysons remarks that probably the moated areas above mentioned near the church were the sites of the vicarage and rectory-house, a supposition which is extremely pro bable from the fact that indications of this moat remained until comparatively recent times, and were doubtless sufficiently important to arrest the attention of Dr. Stukeley in his day, who says that over against the church, in the footpath on the west side of the brook, the ditch was perfectly visible. "North of the church," adds Lysons, "was a square, moated about, originally the residence of the English King, and there Caesar made the British kings Cavselhan and Mundabrace, as good friends as ever, the latter presenting Caesar with that famous corslet of pearls w-hich the Conqueror afterwards bestow-ed upon Venus in her temple at Rome." ryle bk'Ll ^^-^ rue |=o JH DLi(fc ¦ f — r? I" " ' r ¦> "TB r lii t' •-¦ - ' t^r ^7f^i",..-t I.I - ir '{ I-ccoo < I zLJI-I- o li.OI-cc < I^> lu ,1' i ¦ MANOR OF PANCRAS. 119 This manor was formerly kept by the prebendary of Totenhall in his own hands. In 1343, John de Carleton held a court baron as lessee, and the prebendary the same year held a view of frank-plege. In the year 1560, the manor of Totenhall, or Tottenham, was demised to Queen Elizabeth for 99 years, in the name of Sir Robert Dudley. In the year 1639, twenty years before the expiration of Queen Elizabeth's term, a lease was granted to Charles I., in the name of Sir Harry Vane, for three lives. In 1649, this manor being seized as crown land, was sold to Ralph Harrison, Esq., of London, for the sum of £3,318 3s. iid. At the Restoration it reverted to the Crown ; and in the year 1661, two of the lives in King Charles's lease being surviving, it was granted by Charles II. in payment of a debt to Sir Harry Wood, for the term of 41 years, if the said survivors should live so long. After that the lease became the property of Isabella Countess of Arlington, from whom it was inherited by her son, Charles Duke of Grafton. In 1768, the lease being then vested in the Hon. Charles Fitzroy (afterwards Lord Southampton), an Act of Parliament was passed by which the fee-simple of the manor was invested in him subject to the payment of £300 per annum, in lieu of the ancient reserved rent of £46, and all fines for renew-als. According to the survey of 1649, the demesne lands of this manor comprised about 240 acres. MANOR OF PANCRAS. The third great manor into which the parish of St. Pancras w-as anciently divided, consisting of the land near the old church and round about Somers Town, w-as called Pancras Manor. When the great survey of Domesday was taken, Walter, a Canon of St. Paul's, held two hides of land in Pancras. The land in this manor (says that record) is of one carucate, and employs one plough. On this estate are 24 men, who pay a rent of 30s. per annum. In the year 1375, Joan, widow of Robert Lord Ferrers, of Chartley, died possessing an estate, caUed the Manor of Pancras (held under the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, by a rent of 30s.), being probably the same which belonged to Walter the canon. In the year 1381, the reversion, which belonged to the Crown, was 120 ST. PANCRAS. granted after the death of Sir Rohert and his wife Custancia, to the prior and convent of the house of Carthusian monks, built in honour of the holy salutation. RUGGEMERE. This manor is mentioned in the survey of the parish in 1251, as can be seen from the records of the Dean and Chapter at St. Paul's : Norden also mentions it. Its exact situation, however, is not knowm. \'ery possibly at the breaking up of the monasteries it reverted to the crown, and w-as granted by Henry VIII. to some court favourite. The property of the Bedford family was acquired in a great measure from that monarch's hands. It is, therefore, very probable that the manor of Ruggemere consisted of all that land lying at the south-east of the parish, no portion of that district lying in either of the other manors. Among the names of fields at Marylebone Farm, referred to at PP- 50-52 of the present volume, was one " Rugg Moor," described as having been in the possession of Mr. Richard Kendall. The name resembles Ruggemere so closeh- that one feels inclined to enquire whether it may not be in some way connected w-ith that ancient manor. KING JOHN'S PALACE. The house at Tottenham Court, knowm as King John's Palace, was of great antiquit}-, and had undergone many repairs and patchings up previous to its demolition in 1808. The portion shown in the illustra tion made but a small part of the building, there being in front, at about twenty yards distance, a house of thrice its dimensions, and of as ancient a foundation, evidently connecting with this and making part thereof. The interior seemed to have undergone no alteration since the reign of Elizabeth or James L, and the oaken panels, about twelve inches by eight in size, were neatly executed. There was a very curiously carved mantel-piece of oak, much resembhng that at the " Pyed Bull," at Islington, formerly the residence of the iUustrious Sir Walter Raleigh ; and several fragments of antique ornaments indicated it to have been formerly a place of some consequence. The apartments were more spacious than the appearance in the view would lead the KING JOHN'S PALACE, NEAR TOTTENHAM COURT. THE ADAM AND EVE. 121 spectator to imagine, particularly in the hack, where the rooms were nearly double the size of those in front. The tradition is that this was one of the palaces of King John, and, later on, the residence of Oliver CromweU. At the extremity of the building, through the Gothic arch (see the view) was a door, very rarely opened, that led by a gradual descent to a subterraneous passage, traditionally said to lead to the old church of St. Pancras, with which, in former times, it is said, this building had a communication, although the two places were nearly a mile apart. This subterraneous passage ^as the subject of conversation of neighbours for many years before the demolition of the premises, and several persons were led by curiosity to explore the passage, but few had courage to venture a distance of more than twenty yards before they turned back, resigning the task to others who might possess more courage. A man named Price, a smith, who lived in the neighbour hood, was at length resolved to discover the termination of the passage, if possible, and provided himself with a quantity of blazing links to subdue the damps of the earth, as well as guide him in his way. He returned, however, unsuccessful, but with the best account that had hitherto been given of the obstructions that lay in the w-ay. He pro ceeded, as far as he was able to judge, a distance of from thirty to forty yards with some difficulty, from the falling-in of the earth, but was unable to proceed any farther by reason of a pool of water, which entirely stopped any further progress. THE ADAM AND EVE. This celebrated inn was built upon the site of the ancient manor house of Totenhall, and its walls were in fact portions of that house. It was situated at the north-western extremity of Tottenham Court Road. As early as the time of Henry III., the house, the property of William de Tottenhall, was a mansion of eminence, and w-as probably the court-house of the manor of the same name. It was of course much later when the old mansion was turned into an inn. Its situation, a little way out in the pleasant fields, doubtless attracted many visitors and customers, especially on Sundays, when freedom from work gave a little leisure for pleasure and wholesome 122 ST. PANCRAS. recreation. There is a curious entry in the parish books of St. Giles-in- the-Fields, to the foUo-wing effect : — " 1645. Rec'' of Mr. Bringhurst, constable, wh""' he had of Mrs. Stacye's maid and others, for drinking at TottenhaU court on the Sabbath daie xij'' apiece ... ... 35." The building represented in the accompanying illustration formed but a smaU part of the ancient mansion, and appears, indeed, to have been only a part of the lodgings or offices appropriated to the use of the domestics. In the year 1813 it was used as a sort of drinking parlour, being detached from the dweUing of the " Adam and Eve " pubhc-house and wine-vaults, which were built on the site of the old manor-house itself. The " Adam and Eve " is supposed to have acquired its sign from the ancient mysteries ard moralities which were formerly exhibited in inn yards, "Those shows which once profaned the sacred page. The barb'rous mysteries of our infant stage." The house was for a long time celebrated for its tea gardens, which were similar to those of the White Conduit House and Bagnigge Wells. The grounds were extensive and convenient, and a part of them were devoted to the uses of those w-ho chose to play at skittles, Dutch-pins, bumble-puppy, &c. There w-ere spacious gardens at the rear and at the sides, and a fore-court, with large elm-trees, and tables and benches for out-door "THE PADDINGTON DRAG." 123 customers, who preferred to smoke their pipes and enjoy the fresh air from Marylebone Park in front of the road. Inside the gardens were fruit-trees and bowers and arbours, with every accommodation for tea- drinking parties. In the long-room there was an exceUent organ, and it was generally w-ell attended, and the company respectable, until the last few years in the eighteenth century ; but in consequence of the accumu lation of buildings in the neighbourhood, it became a place of more promiscuous resort, and persons of the worst character and description were in the constant habit of frequenting it ; highwaymen, footpads, pickpockets, and common women, formed its leading visitants, and it became so great a nuisance to the neighbourhood, that the magistrates interfered, the organ was banished, the skittle-grounds destroyed, and the gardens dug up for the foundation of Eden Street, which was built on their site. Hogarth has made the " Adam and Eve " the place of rendezvous for the " March of the Guards to Finchley ; " and upon the sign board of the house is inscribed " Totenham Court Nursery, 1745," in allusion to the famous Broughton's Amphitheatre for boxing. At the commencement of the present century there was only one conveyance a day between Paddington and the City. This conveyance was known as the " Paddington Drag," and called to take up passengers at the " Adam and Eve," whose doors it passed twice a day. It was driven by its proprietor, performing the journey in two hours and a half quick time, returning to Paddington in the evening within three hours of its leaving the City, which was considered fair time considering the necessity for precaution against the accidents of night travelling. We cannot do better than borrow the following extracts from some most interesting communications published in Hone's Year Book (pp. 317-318) : — " It may be recollected that the ' Paddington Drag ' made its way to the City, down the defile called Gray's Inn Lane, and gave the passengers an opportunity for ' shopping,' by waiting an hour or more at the Blue Posts, Holborn Bars. The route to the Bank, by the way of the City Road, was then a thing unthought of; and the Hampstead coachman who first achieved this daring feat w-as regarded with admiration, somewhat akin to that bestowed on him who first doubled the Cape in search of a passage to India. 124 •5^- PA^^CRAS. " The spot which you recoUect as a rural suburb, and which is now surrounded on every side by streets and squares, was once numbered among the common boundaries of a Cockney's Sunday walk. George Wither, in his ' Britain's Remembrancer,' 1628, has this passage : — ' Some by the bancks of Thames their pleasure taking ; Some, suUibubs among the milkmaids making ; ¦With musique some, upon the waters rowing ; Some to the next adjoyning hamlet going ; And Hogsdone, Islington, and Tothnam-Court, For cakes and creame, had then no small resort.' " Further he says : — "Those who did never travel, till of late. Half way to Pancridge from the City gate." Broome, in his "New Academy," 1658, Act 2, has this passage:— '¦When shall we walk to Totnam, or crosse ore The water ? or take coach to Kensington, Or Paddington, or to some one or other C the City out-leaps, for an afternoon?'" Another w-riter in Hone's Year Book (p. 318) says : — " Mr. Hone, " Your brief notice of the Adam and Eve, Hampstead-road, has awakened many a pleasant reminiscence of a suburb which was the frequent haunt of my boyish days, and the scene of some of the happiest hours of my existence at a more mature age. But it has also kindled a very earnest desire for a more particular inspection into the store-house of your memory, re specting this subject ; and it has occurred to me, that you could scarcely fill a sheet or two of your Year Book with matter more generally interesting, to the majority of your readers, than your own recollection of the northern suburb of London would supply. Few places afford more scope for pleasant writing, and for the indulgence of personal feeling ; for not many places have under gone, within the space of a few years, a more entire, and, to me, scarcely pleasing, transmutation. I am almost afraid to own that ' Mary-le-bone Park ' holds a dearer place in my affections than its more splendid, but less rural successor. When too I remember the lowly, but picturesque, old ' Queen's Head and Artichoke,' with its long skittle, and ' bumble-puppy ' .,vs.N^55s.v,^ ^-^^Rfcte 5 LU o Q CCCQ UJ _1 < < o CC CO < CC o Ll O CCUJ zCC o o BATTLE BRIDGE AND KING'S CROSS. 125 grounds, and the ' Jew's Harp,' with its bowery tea-gardens, I have little pleasure in the sight of the gin-shop-looking places which now bear the names. Neither does the new ' Haymarket ' compensate me for the fields in which I made my earliest studies of cattle, and once received from the sculptor, Nollekens, an approving word, and pat on the head, as he returned from his customary morning walk." THE PINDER OF WAKEFIELD. From the old inscription, dated 1660, upon a stone forming a portion of old Bagnigge House, it appears that the Pinder of Wakefield was a public-house at that early date, and there is evidence that it was in existence as early as the year 1577. A pinder was the petty officer of a manor, whose duty it was to impound all strange cattle straying upon the common land. Such cattle were kept in bondage in the pound until they were claimed and the expenses paid. It was the pinder's duty to attend to the wants of impounded cattle during their period of detention. In the year above-mentioned, 1577, this is said to have been the only house of entertainment between Holborn and Highgate. It seems as if the proprietor of Bagnigge House was concerned in the " Pinder," as he would scarcely have allowed a slab of stone to have remained on the front of his house, pointing it out as a well-known place, unless he had some interest in it. Aubrey mentions that in the " spring after the conflagration at London, all the ruins were overgrown with an herbe or two ; but especially one with a yellow flower : and on the south side of St. Paul's Church it grew as thick as could be ; nay, on the very top of the tower. The herbalists call it Ericolevis Neapolitana, small bank cresses of Naples ; which plant Tho. Willis (the famous physician) told me he knew before but in one place about towne ; and that was at Battle Bridge, by the Pindar of Wakefield, and that in no great quantity." BATTLE BRIDGE AND KING'S CROSS. Until about the year 1830 the locality now known as King's Cross was called Battle Bridge, and the tradition is that this name was given in consequence of it having been the site of the great battle in which 126 ST. PANCRAS. Queen Boadicea played so prominent a part. The second portion of the name was doubtless applied in allusion to the bridge in continuation of Gray's Inn Road, which at that point crossed the river Holebourne or Fleet. King's Cross took its name from a structure which formerly stood in the middle of the spot where several roads crossed at Battle Bridge. It was of no great antiquit}-, and, indeed, was not a cross at aU in the proper meaning of the word. It was really a national monument, and certainly it possessed no feature which could be called ecclesiastical. It was erected by public subscription in the year 1830, in order to do honour, as a contemporary circular announced, to " His Most Gracious Majesty William the Fourth, his late Majesty George the Fourth, and the preceding kings of the Royal House of Brunswick." The same circular sets forth various reasons for the erection of this national memorial, as follows : — " A splendid monument is now erecting, by public sub scription, to be called King's Cross, in the centre of the six roads uniting at Battle Bridge, in conformity to the model presented and approved by the Right Honorable the Secretary of State for the Home Department ; the honorable the Commissioners of the Metropolitan Roads ; the Commissioners of the New Police ; and the Nobility in general. "The situation selected is, perhaps above aU others, the most appropriate for the purpose, from the many memorable events that have occurred upon the spot, which the history of the country wiU fully explain. Around it, Julius Csesar, with Marc Anthony and Cicero, were in encampment for two years ; when the laws and mandates issued by Cssar, tended in a great measure to civilize the Ancient Britons. "On the site was fought the Grand Battle, in which Queen Boadicea so greatly signalised herself, from which emanated the name of Battle Bridge. " Near it was erected the famous Observatory of Oliver Cromwell. " From it commenced the original Roman North Road, and Great Pass or Barrier, to the Metropolis, bounded by the River Fleet. 4 — Vt - ¦ ' "^^ ¦¦ ^ • •f I' . r ' If-. f w^nmmwM II I I I 1 If ^ I^' ¦• • S 'fef^l iF^t" i-f '"^ ELEVATION OF KING'S CROSS, 1830. KING'S CROSS. 127 " And even at the present day, the spot is eminently distin guished, as it forms the centre of the finest and most frequented public road round the Metropolis. " Description of King's Cross. — The Base or Lodge is of an Octagonal form, and is ornamented by Eight Grecian Doric Columns, two at each corner, supporting, above the Entablature, the four late Kings of England, which will occupy the North- West, South-West, South-East, and North-East Corners. From the Cornice of the Columns rises a Bold Plinth and Subplinth with a Balustrade. Between the opening over the Doors fronting East and West, is a richly sculptured National Coat of Arms ; above is the station for the Illuminated Clock, fronting the Paddington and Pentonville Roads ; the upper part forms the Base of the rich Ornamental Grecian Pedestal, on which -will be placed the colossal statue of his Majesty, in full Robes. The lower part will be splendidly Illuminated by Gas Lamps : the whole forming not only an imposing ornament, but a protection to the Public from danger in crossing the six roads uniting at this spot. " The Proprietors and others interested in the Estates sur rounding King's Cross, have already rendered liberal Subscriptions in order to carry on the undertaking ; it is presumed that every loyal subject will embrace this opportunity of evincing his attachment to his late Majesty, and our present beloved Sovereign, by subscribing in aid of the funds for the completion of King's Cross. " Each subscriber of One Guinea and under Five, will be pre sented with a Gilt Medal of the Cross ; and of Five Guineas and upwards, with a Silver Medal, with his Name inscribed thereon. " Subscriptions received at the Banking Houses of Messrs, Robarts, Curtis, and Co., Lombard Street ; Messrs. WiUiams and Co., Birchin Lane; Messrs. Coutts and Co., Strand; Sir Claude Scott and Co., Cavendish Square ; at Sam's Royal Library, St. James's Street ; Messrs. Rushworth and Co., 12, Haymarket ; of the Treasurer; and at the Office, 11, Liverpool Street, King's Cross. "John Robson, Esqr., Treasurer, " Hamilton Place, New Road." 12!: ST. PANCRAS. There is a little doubt as to whom it was intended to represent by the four figures, as another account describes them as the effigies of St. George of England, St. Patrick of Ireland, St. Andrew of Scotland, and St. David of Wales. There is reason even to doubt whether the figures were ever put up at all ; for in a view of King's Cross, published in the year 1836, the structure shewn is devoid of these appendages. It is certain, however, that there was a colossal figure of George IV. upon an ornamental Grecian pedestal. The architectural features of King's Cross have been made the subject of severe sarcasm by Pugin in his Contrasts ; or a Parallel between the Architecture of the i^th and igth Centuries. It is figured in one of the plates of that work side by side with the beautiful Gothic cross of Chichester. The architect of King's Cross was Mr. Stephen Geary. King's Cross was not destined to stand for many years. It was in the way ; and, to tell the truth, the public did not seem very much in love with their bargain. In the year 1845 it was pulled down in connection with some public improvements. A contemporary newspaper, in commenting upon its demolition, says : " The pennyworths of artistical information, doled out from week to week, soon taught the people that the above was a very uncomplimentary effigy of majesty ; even the very cabmen grew critical; the watermen jeered; the omnibus drivers ridiculed royalty in so parlous a state ; at length the statue was removed in toto, or rather in piecemeal. " We cannot tax our memories with the uses to which the buUding itself has been appropriated ; now a place of exhibition, then a pohce station, and last of all (to come to the dregs of the subject), a beer-shop." CHAPTER IX. ST. PANCRAS: ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. The old Church of St. Pancras.— Quaint description in 1593.— Antiquity of St. Pancras Church. — French Refugees. — Benefactions to the church. — Renovation in 1848. — Altar Stone. — Epitaphs.— Epigram in St, Pancras Churchyard.— Anecdote of the Poet Chatterton.— The New Church of St. Pancras. — St. James's Church, Hampstead Road. — -Whitefield's Tabernacle. — "Resurrection-Men." — Monuments. — Demohtion of the Tabernacle, 1890. — Presbyterian Church, Regent Square.— Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square. THE OLD CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS. HERE is some uncertainty about the date when this church was built. A period somewhere about the year 1350 has been I ¦ assigned to it ; but however that may be, it is certain there was a church at St. Pancras before that date, for in the records belonging to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's there is a notice of a visitation made to this church in 1251. It states that it had a very small tower, a little belfry, a good stone font for baptisms, and a small marble stone to carry the pax. The foUowing quaint description of the church of St. Pancras is taken from John Norden's Speculum BritannicB, 1593 : — " Pancras Church standeth all alone as utterly forsaken, old, and weatherbeaten, which for the antiquitie thereof, it is thought not to yield to Paules in London ; about this Church have bin manie buildings, now decaied, leaving poore Pancras w-ithout companie or comfort ; yet it is now and then visited with Kentish towne and Highgate which are members 130 ST. PANCRAS. thereof; but they seldome come there, for that they have chappels of ease within themselves, but when there is a corps to be interred, they are forced to leave the same in this forsaken church or churchyard, w-here (no doubt) it resteth as secure against the day of resurrection as if it laie in stately Paules. " Pancras as desolate as it standeth is not forsaken of all ; a prebend of Paules accepteth it in right of his office." The list of the prebends of St. Pancras includes the eminent names of Paley and William Sherlock. 17-SO. Lysons describes it as a church " of Gothic architecture, built of stones and flints, w-hich are now covered with plaster. It is certainly not older than the 14th century, perhaps in Norden's time it had the appearance of great decay ; the same building, nevertheless, repaired from time to time, still remains ; looks no longer ' old and weatherbeaten,' and may exist perhaps to be spoken of by some antiquary of a future century." The church was probably of Gothic style originally, but it had been patched up so often, in so many ways, and w-ith such a variety of materials, that it had lost all its original architectural features. sr. PANCRAS OLD CHURCH. 131 A writer in the Builder (of February 4th, 1888) says : — " This little church, standing against Pancras-road, and northwards of its ancient burial ground, presents externally but few indications of its venerable history. The existing fabric indeed dates from the end of the twelfth century. In 1848, the old tower was pulled down, when its stones were used for recasing the body of the church, which at the same time was repaired and enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough and Mr. Roumieu in the Anglo-Norman manner. That was the precursor of the very small tower and little belfry, w-hich are described in a schedule of the visitation made hither in 1251, whereof a record is preserved in the archives of St. Paul's. Norden, writing in 1593, claims for the church an antiquity rivalling, if not excelling, that of St. Paul's itself. " There can be no question that Saint Pancras-in-the-Fields }-ields to very few churches in our country as touching the antiquity of its foundation. Some would connect its dedication to the Phrygian boy- martyr, with a cherished memory of the three Pagan boys, captives from Ella's northern province of Deira, whose fair beauty and slavedom excited the pity of Gregory the Great when yet a monk of St. Andrew's convent on the Coelian Mount at Rome. Pancratius was the patron saint in particular of children. His name was taken for the place of his burial, — the Calepodian Cemetery in Rome. There the church of S. Pancrazio, behind the Vatican, marks the scene of his sufferings and death under Diocletian, in the year 304. ... A long-lived tradition avers that here, on the site of this little church in London, hard by the shore of the Fleet, was raised the first altar to Christ in Britain, that is to say, anterior to the Saxon Invasion. This cannot now be either contradicted or confirmed." The exact date when St. Pancras became a parish, with defined boundaries, has not been ascertained. Weever, in his Funerall Monuments, speaks of a wondrous ancient monument in this church, by tradition said to belong to the family of Gray, of Gray's Inn. " If it be that which now remains in the north wall of the chancel," says Lysons, " I should suppose it not to to be older than the year 1500. It is of purbeck marble, and has an eUiptical arch ornamented with quatrefoils. No inscription or arms remain." Weever mentions also the tomb of Robert Eve, and 13-i ST. PANCRAS. Laurentia his sister, daughter of Francis, son of Thomas Eve, clerk of the crown. The family of Eve, or Ive, were of great antiquity in this parish. In the year 1458, King Henry VI. granted leave to Thomas Ive to enclose a portion of the highway adjoining his mansion at Kentessetonne. Richard Ive, about the middle of the last century, had the manor of Toppesfield, in the parish of Hornsey, and died without male issue. The church and churchyard of St. Pancras were for many years noted as the burial place of such Roman Catholics as died in London and its vicinity. The reason assigned for this preference for St. Pancras Church as a burial place w-as that masses w-ere said in a church in the south of France, dedicated to the same saint, for the souls of the deceased interred at St. Pancras in England. Some persons aver that at St. Pancras Church mass was sung since the Reformation ; others claim unusual sanctity for a spot where a few Roman Catholics are supposed to have been burnt in Queen Elizabeth's day, — the mart}-rs whose recollection evoked the prayers of Dr. Johnson as he twice passed the church when out walking with Dr. Brocklesby. Since the French Revolution, a large number of clergy, and other refugees, some of them of high rank, made their residence at St. Pancras. It has been computed that on the average thirty, probably of the French clergy, were annually buried at St. Pancras in the early part of the present century. In 1801, the number of French refugees buried there was 41 ; in 1802, 32. This circumstance may account for the burial of many Roman Catholics there, but according to a note in Croker's edition of Boswell's Life of Dr. Johnson, the Roman Catholics are prejudiced in favour of St. Pancras for some reason or other which has not yet been explained, just as is the case with respect to other places of burial in various parts of the kingdom. The rectory of St. Pancras was valued at thirteen marks per annum in 1327. It appears, by the visitation of the church in 1251, that the vicar had all the small tithes, a pension of ^5 per annum out of the great tithes, four acres of glebe, and a vicarage house near the church. Richard Cloudesley of Ishngton, by wiU, dated 13th January, 1517, S, A SOt'TH \TEA\' of the CHUIU'H of S^PAiMCKAS (^ ^f m ilie COrXTYoi MIDDLESEX . "^^ ST. PANCRAS OLD CHURCH. 133 gave as follows : — " Item — I give and bequeath to the Church of St. Pancras, two torches, price xivd., and two poor men of the same parish two gowns, price the piece vis. viiid. Item — I give and bequeath to the priest of the church aforesaid xxd., to ye intent yt he shall pray for me by name openly in his church every Sunday, and to pray his parishioners to pray for me and forgive me, as I forgive them and all the world." From the certificates of the commissioners for dissolving colleges and chantries, in the first year of the reign of Edward VI. , it appears that John Morrant gave unto the parson and churchwardens of St. Pancras, for the intent that they should keep an obit yearly, for ever, four acres of meadow land, called Kilbornecroft, valued in 1547 at sixteen shiUings per annum, whereof, at the obit, the sum of twelve shillings was to be given to the priest, and four shillings to the poor in recreation. In the inventory of the ornaments, bells, &c., belonging to the parish church of St. Pancras-in-the-Fields, made in the time of Edward VI. , mention is made of " a hearse cloth of sattyn of Brydges, and four standards for the hearse of latten." Phillis Oldernshaw, wife of William Oldernshaw, gentleman, of Toten hall Court, in this parish, gave on the 9th of February, 1627, a black cloth for ever, to be laid on the poor deceased people of this parish, without fee, and all others to pay for the use of it to the churchwardens. Mrs. Rose Knightly, of Green Street, Kentish Town, gave on the 25th of September, 1632, to this parish for ever, a fair gilt plate, to be only used for the bread at the Holy Sacrament, in the same parish. Before the renovation of 1848, the church contained no galleries, and was capable of accommodating not more than about one hundred and twenty persons. It was usual formerly to perform service in this church only on the first Sunday in each month ; on other Sundays in Kentish Town Chapel. By the enlargement and reconstruction of the church in the year 1848, as above mentioned, sitting room was provided for about five hundred persons. The exterior was entirely faced with ragstone, prin cipally obtained in rough unhewn masses from the old tower, which was removed to effect an elongation of the church, so that no new stone of this description was required ; but the old stone which had existed for 134 -S^- PANCRAS. many centuries in the fabric was re-worked and re-applied to the entire casing of the structure throughout. The arrangement of the church, as then restored, consists of an elongation westward ; a new tower occupying a central position on the south side of that part which constituted the old church ; and a stair turret in a corresponding position in that, which was entirely new. The west front and tower were the main features of the structure. The internal fittings were those of the old structure, retained, altered, and adapted to the new church. The oak carvings of Gibbon's time were preserved and applied, the whole being treated as the furniture of the church rather than as part of the structure itself. The w-indow-s of the chancel are filled with stained glass. The east w-indow consists of three compartments, the subjects being the crucifixion in the centre, and effigies of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side ; and in the windo\vs of the north and south side of the chancel are repre sentations of the conversion of St. Paul, and his appearance before Agrippa. The small circular windows have the emblem of the Trinity, the Agnus Dei, and the Alpha and Omega. The large wheel window in the west front is also filled with stained glass. An old altar-stone, found during the progress of the works, has been preserved and inlaid, and placed in position so as to be slightly raised above the chancel flooring. The many sepulchral monuments have been carefully restored and refixed as nearly as possible in their original positions. In the year 1850 the churchyard was closed by Act of Parliament. In 1868 the Midland Railway Company made a cutting through the churchyard and a viaduct over. The tombs in and around old St. Pancras Church in many cases bear most interesting inscriptions, but it wiU be impossible to give more than a smaU selection in this place. Nothing more than that is desirable either, as a large number of the inscriptions w-ere brought together by Frederick Teague Cansick, and printed in the years 1869 and 1872. The first inscription quoted is in black letter, and reads as foUows :— " At this pues end here lyeth buryed Marye Beresford, the daughter of Alexander Elonore, of Tottenham ST. PANCRAS OLD CHURCH. 135 Courte and the late dear and wellbeloved wife of John Beresford gentleman and ouster barester of Staple Inne who departed this life the xxi. day of August in the year of our Lorde God 1588 ; whose soul is with God for she trusted in the Lorde and reposed her salva tion wholye in Jesus Christ in whom is all peace and rest all joye and consolation all felicitye and salvation and in whom are all the promises. Yea and amen." "MARY WOLLSTONECRAFT GODWIN, Author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman. Born 27th of April, 1759: Died loth of September, 1797." "WILLIAM WOOLLETT, Engraver to His Majesty, was born at Maidstone in Kent, upon the r5th of August, MDCCXXXV. He died the 23rd and was interred in this place on the 28th Day of May, MDCCLXXXV. ELIZABETH WOOLLETT, Widow of the above. Died December the 15th, 1819. Aged 73 years." On this tombstone were formerly written with a pencil the foUow-ing lines, which have long since been defaced : — "Here -Woollett rests expecting to be sav'd. He graved well, but is not well engrav'd." It has been suggested as not improbable that these lines gave rise to a subscription for erecting a monument in Westminster Abbey to 136 ST. PANCRAS. WooUett's memory, and to which Benjamin West, P.R.A., and Alderman Boydell were liberal contributors. The monument was placed in the cloisters of the Abbey. " Here lie the remains of Mr. John Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language, and other valuable works on Grammar and Elocution, of which he was for many years a very distinguished Professor. He closed a life devoted to piety and virtue on the first of August, 1807, aged 75. " Also in the same grave are interred the remains of Sybylla Walker, wife of the above John Walker, who died on the 29th of April, 1802, aged 79. I cling to the foot of the Cross." " Underneathe thys stone doth lye The Body of Mr. Humphrie Jones, who was of late By Trade a plate- ¦Worker in Barbicanne ; ¦Well known to be a good manne By all his Friends and Neighbours toe And paid every bodie their due. He died in the year 1737 .Vug. 4th, aged 80, his soule we hope's in heaven.'- EPIGRAM IN ST. PANCRAS CHURCHYARD. The following epigram, said to be in St. Pancras Churchyard, is copied from Samuel Palmer's History of St. Pancras:— Thro' Pancras Church-yard as two Taylors were walking. Of trade, news, and politics earnestly talking. Says one, "These fine rains," and looking around, "¦Will bring all things charmingly out of the ground." "Marry, Heaven forbid!" says the other, "for here I buried two wives without shedding a tear." A curious anecdote is told of Chatterton, the poet, who was amusing himself one day, in company with a friend, by reading epitaphs in St. Pancras Churchyard. He was so much absorbed in thought as he walked along, that, not perceiving an open grave in his way just dug, he tumbled into it. His companion, observing his situation, ran to ¦ass***' ^-^C^Sags^" NEW CHURCH OF St. PANCRAS. ST. PANCRAS NEW CHURCH. 137 his assistance, and as he helped him out, told him in a jocular manner, he was happy in assisting at the resurrection of genius. Poor Chatterton smiled, and, taking his friend by the arm, replied, " My dear friend, I feel the sting of a speedy dissolution. I have been at war with the grave some time, and find it not so easy to vanquish as I imagined ; we can find an asylum from every creditor but that." Three days afterwards the neglected and disconsolate youth committed suicide by poison. THE NEW CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS. The Duke of York laid the foundation stone of the new Church of St. Pancras on the ist of July, 1819 ; and in April, 1822, the Bishop of London consecrated it. It was built, from the designs of Mr. WiUiam Inwood, in imitation of the Erechtheium at Athens, and it is said to have been the first place of Christian worship erected in Great Britain in the strict Grecian style. The steeple, upwards of 160 feet in height, is from an Athenian model, the Temple of the Winds, built by Pericles ; it is, however, surmounted by a cross in lieu of the Triton and his wand, the symbols of the winds, in the original. There is a very fine portico of six columns at the west end of the church. Towards the east end are lateral porticoes, each supported by colossal female statues on a plinth, in which are entrances to the catacombs beneath the church. Each of the figures bears an ewer in one hand, and rests the other on an inverted torch, the emblem of death. These figures are composed of terra-cotta, formed in pieces, and cemented round cast-iron pillars, which in reality support the entablatures. The eastern end of the church differs from the ancient temple in having a semi-circular, or apsidal termination, around which, and along the sides, are terra-cotta imitations of Greek tiles. The interior of the church is in keeping with its exterior. The pulpit and reading desk were made of the celebrated " Fairlop oak," which formerly stood in Hainault Forest, Essex, and gave its name to the fair at Easter-tide long held beneath its branches. Gilpin mentions this tree in his Forest Scenery. " The tradition of the country," he says, " traces it half way up the Christian era." The old oak tree was blown down in 1820. 138 ST. PANCRAS. ST. JAMES'S CHURCH, HAMPSTEAD ROAD. In or about the year 1792, St. James's Chapel was buih upon the eastern side of Hampstead Road, and an adjoining cemetery in connection with it was formed about the same time. Both chapel and cemetery were, by Act of Pariiament, made to belong to the parish of St. James, Westminster. Among the celebrated persons buried in the cemetery attached to St. James's Chapel w-ere the celebrated fanatic, Lord George Gordon, 1797; Matthias Tomick, of Broad Street, Carnaby Market, seven feet ten inches in height, who died at the age of 66, of a decline, in 1794 ; Dr. Rowdey, the physician ; Count de Welderen, many years ambassador to this country from the Hague; John Hoppner, the portrait painter; George Moriand, a skilful painter who was particularly happy in his representations of rural nature and animals ; Dr. Dickson, Bishop of Dowm ; and many others. WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE. In 1741 the friends of Rev. George Whitefield, the eminent Calvinist preacher, procured a piece of ground close to Wesley's Foundry, and employed a carpenter to build a large temporary shed to screen his Moorfields congregations from the cold and rain. For twelve years this wooden shed served as Whitefield's metropolitan church. In 1753 it was superseded by the erection, on the same site, of the substantial brick building which, for more than a hundred years, was used by Whitefield's successors. In the year 1756, Whitefield set about collecting funds for a proposed new chapel in Tottenham Court Road, upon a site which at that time w-as surrounded by fields and gardens. On the north side of it there were but two houses, and the next after them, half a mile further, was the " Adam and Eve " public house. The chapel, when first erected, was seventy feet square within the walls. Over the door were the arms of Whitefield. Two years after it was opened, twelve almshouses and a minister's house were added. The inhabitants of the almshouses were allowed 3s. weekl}-, and candles, out of the sacramental coUections at the TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD TURNPIKE, ABOUT 1800. (From an Engraving after Rowlandson^, WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE. 139 chapel. About a year after that, the chapel was found to be too smaU, and it was enlarged to the size of a hundred and twenty-seven feet long, and seventy feet broad, with a dome a hundred and fourteen feet in height. Beneath it were vaults for the burial of the dead, in which Whitefield intended that himself and his friends, John and Charles Wesley, should be buried. " I have prepared a vault in this chapel," Whitefield used to say to his somewhat bigotted congregation, "where I intend to be buried, and Messrs. John and Charles Wesley shaU also be buried there. We wiU all lie together. You wiU not let them enter your chapel whUe they are alive ; they can do you no harm when they are dead." The lease of the ground was granted to Whitefield by General George Fitzroy, and on its expiration in 1828, the freehold was purchased for ;{'l4,00O. The foundation stone of the chapel was laid in the beginning of June, 1756, upon which occasion Whitefield preached. Among those who attended the service were the Rev. Thomas Gibbons ; Dr. Andrew Giffard, Assistant- Librarian of the British Museum; and the Rev. Benjamin Grosvenor, D.D., for many years the pastor of the Presbyterian congrega tion in Crosby Square, and who, after preaching in London for half a century, had recently retired into private life. On the 7th of November, 1756, the new chapel was opened, and Whitefield again preached a sermon. Among the distinguished preachers who, in olden days, occupied the pulpit at Whitefield's Tabernacle, were : — Dr. PeckweU, De Courcy, Berridge, Walter Shirley, Piercy (chaplain to General Washington), Rowland HiU, Torial Joss, West, Kinsman, Beck, Medley, Edward Parsons, Matthew Wilks, Joel Knight, John Hyatt, and many others. Tottenham Court Road Chapel has a history which is, indeed, weU worthy of being written. From this venerable sanctuary sprang separate congregations in Shepherd's Market, Kentish Town, Paddington, Tonbridge Chapel, Robert Street, Crown Street, and Craven Chapel. The foUowing account is given of the discovery of "resurrection- men " at Whitefield's Tabernacle : — " It appears that on Friday, March 13, 1798, the watchman on going his round perceived a hackney coach waiting near the chapel, 140 ST. PANCRAS. and he at once concluded that some resurrection-men were at work in the burial ground. Acting on this supposition he gave notice to one of the patrols, who, going to the spot, saw three men in conversation with the coachman, but who, on his approach, decamped. He, however, secured the coachman, and, on searching the coach, discovered the body of a male child wrapt up in a cloth. He then w-ent to examine the burying ground, when, finding several graves open, he went to the sexton's house, w-hich adjoined the ground, but found that he had gone to stay at Westminster. " At daylight a further search took place, when eight other bodies (four women, three children, and one man) were found tied up in sacks for removal. The coachman, whose name was John Peake, was brought before the magistrate at Bow Street on the foUowing morning, and, after the parties had identified the bodies, the magistrate proceeded to examine the prisoner. " He said, in his defence, that about three o'clock he was caUed off the stand near the Hatton Street end of Holborn by three men, who ordered him to drive to Pitt Street, Tottenham Court Road, and there, getting out, desired him to wait for him near the Chapel. That one of them continued by the coach the whole time, but he denied seeing anything put into the coach, or even that the doors were opened after the men first got out. The sexton was then examined, but nothing could be cohected from him, he having slept from home that night. After considerable investigation, it at length came out that the prisoner was w-eU knowm as connected w-ith resurrection-men, that he was nick-named ' Lousy Jack,' and had been implicated in the robbery at Hampstead Churchyard. "There had been six funerals on that afternoon, and the whole of the bodies were in the sacks. Among them was a woman, who, dying in her lying-in, was interred with her infant. The greatest scene of distress was exhibited round the Chapel by the relatives of those who had lately been buried in that ground." The chapel contained memorials, among others, to the following:— Mason Jenkin, limner, 1758 ; Matthew Pearce, buUder of the chapel, 1775 ; Rev. A. M. Toplady, aged 38, 1778 ; Anna Ceciha, daughter of Chris topher Rhodes, Esq., of Chatham (a monument by Bacon, with a WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE. 141 bas relief of the woman touching the hem of the Saviour's garment), 1796; John Bacon, R.A., 1797, with the following inscription : — " Near this place lies John Bacon, R.A., sculptor, who died Aug. 7, 1799, aged 59 years, and left the following inscription for this tablet, ' What I was as an artist seemed to me of some importance, while I lived, but what I really was, as a believer in Christ Jesus, is the only thing of importance to me now.' " There were also monuments for Elizabeth, wife of John Bacon, R.A., who died in 1782 ; and for Samuel Foyster, Esq., one of the trustees of the chapel, 1805. It is a somewhat remarkable circumstance that neither John nor Charles Wesley, nor Whitefield himself, were buried at Tottenham Court Road Chapel, according to Whitefield's intention. Whitefield's wife, however, was buried there, and is commemorated by the following inscription : — " In memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Whitefield, aged 62, who, after upwards of thirty years' Strong and frequent manifestations of a Redeemer's love and as Strong and frequent stragglings with the buffettings of Satan, Bodily Sicknesses, and the remains of indwelling Sin, finished her course with joy, August 9th, Anno Domini 1768. " Also to the Memory of the Revd. Mr. George Whitefield, A.M., late Chaplain to the Right Honourable the Countess ot Huntingdon, whose Soul made meet for glory was taken to Imanuel's Bosom the 30th of Sept., 1770, and whose Body now lies in the silent grave at Newbury Port, near Boston, in New England, there deposited in sure and certain hope of a joyfull Resurrection to Eternal life and Glory. " He was a man Eminent for Piety, of an Humane, Benevo lent and Charitable Disposition. His zeal in the Cause of God was Singular ; His labours indefatigable, and his success in preaching the gospell remarkable and astonishing. He departed this life in the 56th year of his Age. "And, like his Master, was by some despis'd. Like him by many others lov'd and priz'd; But their's shall be the everlasting crown. Not whom the world, but Jesus Christ shall own." 142 ST. PANCRAS. In consequence of the insecure nature of the foundations, the entire structure of Whitefield's Tabernacle had to be taken down in the year 1890. Preparations are now being made for the rebuUding of the chapel. PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, REGENT SQUARE. The foundation-stone of this church was laid in October, 1824, by the Earl of Breadalbane, who acted in the capacity of proxy for the Duke of Clarence, whose indisposition prevented him laying the stone in person. The Regent Square Church was erected in consequence of the Caledonian Church in Hatton Garden being too smaU for the large congregations who assembled to hear the eloquent preacher, Rev. Edward Irving. The building was completed in 1827, and opened according to the manner of the National Scotch Presbyterian Church. It cost over ;f 25,000 ; was built to accommodate about three thousand persons ; and for many years had Mr. Irving for its minister. CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH, GORDON SQUARE. The members of the Catholic Apostolic Church, often called Irvingites in allusion to their founder. Rev. Edward Irving, seem to have consisted originally of the bulk of the congregation attending Regent Square Presbyterian Church, who accompanied Irving when he was expelled from the Scottish Church in 1833. A buUding in Newman Street, formerly the studio of Benjamin West, P.R.A., was taken by the new sect soon after that date. For the service of the church a comprehensive book of liturgies and offices was provided by the "apostles;" and lights, incense, vest ments, holy oil, water, chrism, and other adjuncts of worship have been appointed by their authority. Each congregation in the Cathohc Apostolic Church is presided over by its "angel" or bishop (who ranks as pastor in the Universal Church); under him are four-and-twenty priests, divided into four ministries of "elders, prophets, evangehsts, and pastors," and with these are the deacons, seven of whom regulate the temporal affairs of the church — besides whom there are also "sub-deacons, acolytes, singers, and door keepers." CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH. 143 The fine church in Gordon Square is the Metropolitan Church or Cathedral of the Catholic Apostolic Church. It was buift about the year 1853, from the designs of Mr. R. Brandon and Mr. Ritchie. The exterior is of Early English design, and the decorated interior has a triforium in the aisle-roof, after the manner of our early churches and cathedrals. The ceihngs are highly enriched, and some of the windows are fiUed with stained glass. The northern doorway and porch, and the southern wheel-window, are very fine. A beautiful side chapel, called a "Lady Chapel," has been added on the south. /i..i.t~'>-' J fi CHAPTER X. SPRINGS AND WELLS OF ST. PANCRAS. Lamb's Conduit. — ¦William Lamb. — Public rejoicings — The Lamb Public House. — The River Holebourne. — Black Mary's Hole. — Bagnigge 'Wells.' — The Pinder of ¦Wakefield. — Nell Gwynne. — Properties of the waters. ^Bagnigge ^Wells Tea-gardens. — "The Bagnigge Organfist." — Pancras 'WeUs — The Adam and Eve, Pancras. — St. Chad's 'Well. — Portrait of St. Chad. — Tottenham Court Fair. — Smock Race. LAMB'S CONDUIT. AMB'S CONDUIT was situated above the north end of Red Lion Street, Holborn, and was celebrated for the abundance of w-ater, clear as crystal, and suitable for drinking purposes, which it afforded. " The Fountain Head," says the writer of the New View of London, " is under a stone marked S.P. P., in the vacant Ground a little Southward of Ormond Street, w-hence the Water comes in a Drein to this Conduit, and it runs thence in Lead Pipes to the Conduit on Snow Hill, which has the figure of a Lamb on it, denoting that its Water come from Lamb's Conduit." It was erected for the use of Londoners by a gentleman of the name of William Lamb, of whom, notwithstanding his munificence, but little of his history is known at the present day. In addition to the erection of this conduit, he endowed a chapel in the City, which w-as destroyed at the great fire of London. When the New River Company commenced to supply the metropolis with water, the conduit pipes got neglected and stopped up, and the water ceased to run to Snow HiU, though it was stih useful LAMB'S CONDUIT. 145 to the inhabitants in the neighbourhood of the streets to the north of Holborn. The stone at the source of the conduit itself was taken down at the time of the erection of the Foundling Hospital, and the water caused to run a little more to the east, from whence, for a long time, the inhabitants had access to the spring. The supplies of the pumps in Mecklenberg and Brunswick Squares are derived from the springs which supplied Lamb's Conduit. In the year 1800 access to the water was gained by means of steps descending to the pipe whence it issued. The following inscription was placed upon a part of the Conduit : — "On this spot stood the Conduit, Commonly called and known By the name of Lamb's Conduit, The Property of the City of London ; Which was rebuilt in the year mdccxlvi., At the request of the Governor and Guardians Of the Hospital for the maintenance And education of exposed and deserted Young Children. In order to lay the way And make the same more commodious ; The waters thereof are still preserved, And continued for the public emolument. By building an arch over the same ; And this compartment is erected To preserve the City's right and interest In the said ground, water, and springs." Upon certain occasions of public rejoicing. Lamb's Conduit, like many other conduits in London, was made to flow with wine instead of water. A hogshead of wine was put in communication with the conduit and allowed to run out, but the aperture from which the people filled their vessels is said to have been never larger than that of a straw, so that this apparent prodigality was regulated upon strictly economical principles, and the flow of wine was made to last a long time. K 146 ST. PANCRAS. The sign of the Lamb public-house at the north-eastern end of Lamb's Conduit Street was the effigy of a lamb cut in stone, which was believed to have been one of the figures which stood upon Lamb's Conduit, as a rebus upon the name of Wilham Lamb. The fields around Lamb's Conduit formed a favourite promenade on a summer's evening for the inhabitants of St. Andrew's, Holborn, and St. GUes's. WiUiam Wycherley aUudes to them in his Love in a Wood, or St. James's Park (1672). They were first curtaUed in 1714, by the formation of a new burying-ground for the parish of St. George's, Bloomsbury, and again in 1739, by the erection of the Foundling Hospital. THE RIVER HOLEBOURNE. Among the rivers which formerly supplied London with water, the Holebourne occupied an important place. As we have already said in an earlier chapter in this volume (p. 10), this stream arose in and around the ponds at Hampstead and Highgate, and flow-ed through Kentish Town, Camden Town, Somers Towm, Battle Bridge, Farringdon Road, Farringdon Street, and into the Thames at the point where Blackfriars Bridge now is. " Holebourne " is the ancient form of the name, and Holborn is a corruption of it. Throughout its course its physical character justified its name. It was strictly the brook or bourne in the hole or hollow. It was also called "Turnmill Brook," "The River of WeUs," and "The River Fleet." But the term "fleet," as Mr. J. G. Waller has pointed out, could only he properly applied w-here it was influenced by the tidal flow of the Thames. A "fleet" is a channel covered with shallow water at high tide, and frequent examples of the use of the term are to be found in the names of places upon the banks of the Thames and the Medway. The designation, "The River of WeUs," was an appropriate name for the Holebourne, which received the waters of ClerkenweU, Skinners-weU, Fags-well, Tode-well, Loders-well, and Rad-well. The Holebourne received a smaU stream a little north of Battle Bridge arising from some springs near Tottenham Court Road. At Battle Bridge, the stream, which ran along the south side of the road, frequently overflowed, and at times the inundations were so serious as to occasion much loss to the dwellers in the neighbourhood. Just about THE RIVER HOLEBOURNE. 147 this locahty there was but little fall in the ground, and the spring moved sluggishly, spreading itself out as it bent round the end of Gray's Inn Road, which was here carried over the bridge which gave name to the locality. There was a serious inundation in January, 1809, which is thus related in Nelson's Islington : — " At this period, when the snow was lying very deep, a rapid thaw come on, and, the arches not affording a sufficient passage for the increased current, the ^vhole space between Pancras, Somers Town, and the bottom of the hill at Pentonville, was in a short time covered with water. The flood rose to the height of three feet in the middle of the highway, the lower rooms of all the houses within that space were completely inundated, and the inhabitants sustained considerable damage in their goods and furniture, which many of them had not time to remove. Two cart-horses were drowned, and for several days persons were obliged to be conveyed to and from their houses, and receive their provisions in at the -windows, by means of carts." It appears that this stream in the neighbourhood of Bagnigge Wells, through the gardens of which it flowed, was sometimes known as Bagnigge River. It is recorded that, in 1761, on " Saturday night the waters were so high at 'Black Mary's Hole,' that the inhabitants of Bagnigge Wells and in the neighbourhood suffered greatly. About seven o'clock a coach, with five gentlemen within, and three on the outside, was overturned by the height of the water in the road just by, and with great difficulty escaped being drowned." Black Mary's Hole was the name applied to a very few small houses at Bagnigge Wash, the origin of which is thus described. The land here was called Bagnigge Wash, from the River Bagnigge, which passed through it, and subsequently people resorting thither to drink the waters of the conduit, which was then leased to one Mary, who kept a black cow, whose mUk was drunk with the waters of the conduit ; the wits of that age used to say, " Come, let us go to Black Mary's Hole." However, Mary dying, and the place degenerating into licen tiousness, about 1687, Walter Baynes, Esq., of the Inner Temple, enclosed the conduit, which is said to have had the appearance of a great oven. He is supposed to have left a fund for keeping the same 148 ST. PANCRAS. in perpetual repair. The stone with the inscription was carried away during the night. There was a tradition that the name Black Mary's Hole was a corruption of Blessed Mary's Well — a highly probable explanation. In AprU, 1756, a newspaper states: — A few days since the water was so deep in Pancras Wash as to drowm a horse which fell into the same with a load on his back." B.\GNIGGE WELLS. The Hole-bourne, or Fleet River, was locally called the " River Bagnigge," and hence a w-ell near at hand was caUed " Bagnigge Wells," and ultimately there arose Bagnigge Tea Gardens. The name Bagnigge is derived from that of a family to w-hom the property belonged in the 17th century. It is supposed, -with some degree of probability, that the house originally called " Bagnigge House " was a country residence of Nell Gwynne, the celebrated mistress of Charles II. In some ancient deeds, the ground where this house stood is called Bagnigge Vale. On a square stone, over an old Gothic portal taken down about the year 1763, and afterwards replaced over the door from the high road to the house, was cut the following inscription : — _i_ I S. T. THIS IS BAGNIGGE HOUSE NEARE THE PINDER A WAKEFIELDE 1680. Over one of the chimney-pieces was the garter of the Order of St. George in raised w-ork ; and over another, the royal arms on one side, and on the other side the same arms joined with several more. Between them was the bust of a woman in Roman costume, " let deep into a circular cavity of the waU, bordered with festoons of delf earth, in the natural colours, and glazed. It is said to represent Mrs. Eleanor Gwin, a favourite of Charles the Second, who sometimes made this place her summer residence." The bust is said to have been the work BAGNIGGE WELLS. 149 of Sir P. Lely. This quotation is from Dr. Bevis's account, to which we are just about to refer. Beyond this there does not appear to have been anything of a remarkable character in connection with the history of the house until the year 1756, when the discovery there of medicinal springs formed the commencement of a new epoch in its history. In the year 1760, John Bevis, M.D., published An Experimental Enquiry concerning the Contents, Qualities, and Afcdicinal Virtues of the two Mineral ]]'atcrs, lately discovered at Bagnigge Wells, near London. In 1767, a second edition, with additions, was published, from whence the following curious facts are extracted : — "These wells are situated a little way out of London, in the high road from Coppice Row, or Sir John Oldcastle's, which, about a quarter of a mile further, at Battle-Bridge turnpike, comes into the great new road from Paddington to Islington, affording an easy access to the spring for coaches from all parts : And the foot path from Tottenham Court Road, by Southampton Row, Red Lion Street and the Foundling Hospital, to Islington, Clerkenwell, and Old Street, running close by the wells, is no less convenient for such as prefer walking exercise. " The place where the waters issue, is environed w-ith hills and rising ground every way but to the south, and, consequently, screened from the inclemency of the more chiUing winds. Primrose Hill rises westward ; on the north-west are the more distant elevations of Hamp stead and Highgate ; on the north and north-east there is a pretty sudden ascent to Ishngton and the New River Plead, and a near prospect of London makes up the rest of the circumference, with the magnificent structure of St. Paul's, full in front, and neariy upon a level with Bagnigge House. " Such a situation, however agreeable in itself, and favourable to the production and maintenance of springs, should seem, ne\-ertheless, to expose their waters to be frequently contaminated and spoiled by in undations from large and sudden rains : And yet that these springs ever suffer the least damage on that account does not appear; since they are found to retain their genuine clearness, mineral flavours, and virtues, through aU seasons and vicissitudes of weather. The floods w-hich, at times roU down toward this spot, are all received and carried off quick. 150 ST. PANCRAS. w-ithout ponding, by a rivulet, anciently caUed the River Fleet, which running near Pancras Church, and the BriU, passes under Battle Bridge, and so hard by the wells, to London, discharging itself into Fleet-ditch, and at last into the Thames. Add to this, that although it be difficult to dig hereabouts two or three feet deep without encountering springs, yet do the sources of the w-ells lye so low, as to be inaccessible to any percolations of rain or other \\'aters, from or near the surface. " At what time these waters w-ere first known to be possessed of salutary qualities, cannot be made out with any degree of evidence. A tradition goes, that the place of old was called Blessed Mary's Well ; but that the name of the Holy Virgin having in some measure fallen into disesteem after the Reformation, the title w-as altered to Black Mary's \Ye\\, as it now stands upon Mr. Rocque's map, and then to Black Mary's Hole ; though there is a very different account of these later appellations : For there are those who insist they were taken from one Mary Woolaston, whose occupation was attending at a w-ell, now covered in, on an opposite eminence, by the footway from Bagnigge to Islington, to supply the soldiery, encamped in the adjacent fields, w-ith water. But waiving such uncertainties, it may be relied on for truth that the present proprietor, upon taking possession of the estate, found two wells thereon, both steaned in a workmanlike manner ; but when, or for what purpose they were sunk, he is entirely ignorant." The water of these wells was of two kinds ; one had aperient quali ties; the other tonic, being of a chalybeate nature. It w-ill be unnecessary to give an}- account of the various experiments made by Dr. Bevis in his studies of the properties of these waters, and of which he has given fuU details in his book; but a few interesting particulars of the acci dents which led to the discover}- of the medicinal characteristics of the waters may be added. In the }'ear 1757, upon boiling some of the laxative sort of water in a tea kettle, it was observed to turn whitish and foul, which caused it to be rejected for culinary uses. The same year, a man who was employed at some snuff-miUs, then erected close to the well, happening to be feverish and thirsty, drank plentifully of the water, and found himself immoderate]}- purged b}- it, w-hich gave the first intimation of its cathartic qualit}-. BAGNIGGE WELLS. 151 The well from whence this water was obtained was about twenty- two feet deep. There w-as not the least appearance of any water trickling in through the junctures of the steining ; it clearly arose from the very bottom of the shaft, and came in slowly through a blue clay. This was discovered when continued pumping had almost entirely exhausted the supply of water. As the pump brought it up from the well the water was remarkably clear and limpid, and it is said to have discharged more air bubbles at the surface than most waters do at the spring head, although it was less remarkable in this respect than the Bagnigge chalybeate waters. It never turned foul or deposited any sediment, or threw up any scum, if kept in clean vessels, unless heated to a degree much beyond that of the warmth of any known climate. It did not taste disagreebly in the mouth ; but being swallowed, left a distinguishable brackish bitterness on the palate ; and there was nothing remarkable in it as to smell, when cold. As far as the chalybeate waters are concerned, it appears that in the year 1757, the spot of ground in which this well was sunk, was let out to a gentleman curious in gardening, w-ho observed that the oftener he watered his flowers w-ith it the less they throve. " I happened," sa}-s Dr. Bevis, in his interesting account, " towards the end of that summer to be in company with a friend or tw-o who made a transient visit to Mr. Hughes, was asked to taste the water ; and being surprised to find its flavour so near that of the best German chalybeats, did not hesitate to declare my opinion that it might be made of great benefit both to the public and himself. At my request he sent me some of the water in a large stone bottle, w-eU corked, the next day ; a gallon whereof I immediately set over the fire, and by a hasty evaporation found it very rich in mineral contents, though much less so than I afterwards experienced it to be when more leisurely exhaled by a gentle heat. Whilst this operation was carrying on, I made some e.xperiments on the remainder of the water, particularly with powdered galls, which I found to give, in less than a minute, a very rich and deep purple tincture to it, that lasted many days without any great alteration. I reported these matters to Mr. Hughes, but soon after a very dangerous fit of sickness put a stop to my experiments, w-hich I resumed not that }-ear, nor I.=i2 ST. PANCRAS. till lately, when the proprietor caUed and told me his waters were got into very great vogue, and known by the name of the Bagnigge Wells, which indeed I remembered to have seen in the newspapers, without so much as guessing it had been given to these springs. Mr. Hughes took me to his w-ells, where I was not a little pleased with the elegant accommodation he had provided for company in so short a time. Upon intimating his desire that I would proceed to complete a proper series of experiments on the waters, and dra\v- up some rational account of them, I consented to do so ; the result of all which is the little treatise now- huinbl}- submitted to the public. "The chalybeat well is just behind the pump room, about forty }-ards south of the purging well, being almost tw-enty feet deep, and near two yards in diameter within the steaning. It is fed by no less than four springs drilling through the steaning, the strongest and purest of which is one that runs in plentifully from the north. It has been found upon exhausting this well that it replenishes at the rate of three feet in an hour. " The water fresh pumped up is exceeding clear, and much of the complexion of pure rain water ; has something of a sulphury smell as it issues out, and discharges great quantity of air-bubbles at the surface. Its BAGNIGGE WELLS. 153 taste is highly ferrugineous, with an agreeable and sprightly subacid tartness." In an appendix to the book, the author gives particulars of several remarkable cures w-hich had been effected by the use of these mineral springs. Very soon after the house w-as opened as a public spa, it rose into notoriety also on account of its tea-gardens, which became a highly popular place of resort on Sundays. The gardens covered an extensive piece of ground, and were decorated in the old-fashioned manner, with walks in formal lines, a profusion of leaden statues, alcoves, and fountains. They were much frequented by the lower sort of tradesmen. The foUowing was a popular comic song in those days : — "BAGNIGGE -WELLS. " Come, come. Miss Prissy, make it up, and we will lovers be. And we will go to Bagnigge Wells, and there will have some tea; It's there you'll see the lady-birds upon the stinging nettles. And there you'll see the waiters, ma'am, with all their shining kettles. Oh la ! Oh dear, O dash my vig, how funny. It's there you'll see the waiters, ma'am, will serve you in a trice, ¦With rolls all hot and butter pats serv'd up so neat and nice : And there you'll see the fishes, ma'am, more curioser than whales, Oh ! they're made of gold and silver, ma'am, and they wag their little tails. And they're you'll hear the organ, ma'am, and see the water-spouts. Oh, we'll have some rum and water, ma'am, before that we go out, ¦We'll coach it into town, ma'am, we won't return to shop. But we'll go to thingimy hall, ma'am, and there we'll have a drop. Oh la! Oh dear!" &c. A humorous engraving showing Charles Griffith, the Bagnigge WeUs organist, seated and performing upon an organ, was published about the time when these gardens enjoyed the greatest share of popular support. The following lines are engraved beneath the picture : " THE BAGNIGGE ORGANFIST. ¦What passion cannot Music raise & quell ! ¦When G[riffith] struck his corded shell. The listning Drunkards stood around. And wondring on their faces fell. Vide Dry [den] 's Ode to S. Cecillia's Night Pubd for the Benefit of decayed Musicians." 154 ^T- PANCRAS. An account published in 1788, says of Bagnigge WeUs : " It is a place of Health, like most of those in or about this metropolis, because a place of rela.xation and amusement, and a tea-drinking convenience for Sundays, &c. " There is a handsome long room, the organ in w-hich was once a favourite part of the amusement of such as resorted thither in motley crowds ' to kill an idle hour."' " But what seems most attractive to company (if w-e except the desire of seeing and being seen, of appointed interviews, or the attractions they appear to have for each other) is the circumstance of gardens laid out prettily enough in what is caUed the miniature taste, with convenient boxes for the company : but being situate on low ground, are subject to be frequently overflowed. " Having already observed w-hat a motley groupe the company forms, it may he expected that too many among them are of very indifferent characters, a consideration which has contributed much to bring the place into disrepute ; — in the mean time its being particularly open on Sundays, appears lately to have drawm the attention of the magistrates. Better order is to be kept, and special care taken that none are admitted during the hours of divine service. " Perhaps it may be thought not a little remarkable that the proprietor of these Wells is ranked with the people called methodists, and was a constant attendant at a certain well-known neighbouring chapel, where the congregation was of that description, whilst he suffered the sabbath to be incroached on, and scenes of dissipation to prevail on his own premises. We mean not to be invidious ; but the remark is obvious, and seems to carry its comment with it." In 1779, a poem entitled "Bagnigge Wells" was issued, in quarto size, at one shiUing. It is supposed to have been w-ritten by Hawkins, but the cop}- I have examined unfortunately has lost its title page. The poem is unfit for quotation, but the copious foot-notes are remarkable for their humour and sarcasm. In the year 1813, a new tenant took Bagnigge Wells, and the grounds -were made considerably smaller. In the sale that then took place, the catalogue described the fixtures and fittings as comprising a temple, a grotto, arbours, boxes, large lead figures, pumps, shrubs, two BAGNIGGE WELLS. 155 hundred drinking tables, three hundred and fifty wooden seats, etc. The temple and grotto were purchased by the new proprietor, and remained on the grounds tiU the entire breaking up of the house in 1844. The temple consisted of a roofed and circular kind of colonnade, formed by a double row of pillars and pUasters with an interior balustrade —a building much like the water-temples at the Crystal Palace. In its centre was a double pump, one piston of which supplied the chalybeate water, and the other the cathartic water. The grotto was a little casteUated building, of two apartments, open to the gardens, in the form of a sexagon, and covered for the most part with sheUs, pebble stones, and bits of glass stuck in compo. In the long room was an organ, and a bust of NeU Gwynne, in a circular border composed of a variety of fruits, supposed to be in allusion to her original occupation of seUing fruit at the playhouse. These specimens of carved work were originaUy over a chimneypiece in the ancient mansion, and being sold by auction, were restored, painted, regilt, and put up in the room by the proprietor of Bagnigge Wells. It appears that the gardens, after the curtailment of their fair pro portions, soon began to decline in the popular favour, or at least they appealed to the tastes of a lower class of visitors. The once famous resort sank down to a "three-penny" concert-room. Mr. AUcock was the performer upon the organ, but the main attraction was Paddy O'Rourke; some singers named Alford, Ozealey, Prynn, Box, Sloman, Booth, Gibbs, Dickie, and others, also gave their aid. The songs and duets were diversified by the delivery of portions of plays, but without scenery or dresses. This place was, in fact, the precursor of the Grecian, the Britannia, and other saloons, the Bower at Westminster Bridge, etc. It was kept for many years by a man named Thoroughgood. Soon after the Battle of Waterloo, he obtained one of the hoofs of the horse shot under the unfortunate Duke of Brunswick. This he converted into a snuff-box, which he handed round to the visitors, male and female, who attended his room. But the attraction of the relic seems to have been inconsiderable, or only short-lived, for the place did not pay ; it was, in fact, a ruinous concern, and his successors did little better than he. About the year 1870, Messrs. Gardiner, the brewers, of St. John Street, ClerkenweU, erected a gin palace upon the site of the gardens. 155 ST. PANCRAS. PANCRAS WELLS. At w-hat date the virtues of Pancras ^^'ells first became known is a matter of some doubt, but it is pretty certain that they were favoured with a considerable share of public patronage early in the i8th century. The w-ells were situated a httle to the south of the old church of St. Pancras, at that time described as being " about a mile to the north of London." The gardens around the wells w-ere extensive and admirably laid out as w-alks for those w-ho visited the place for the purpose of drinking the waters. The buildings belonging to the establishment, too, appear to have been sufficiently extensive to accommodate a large number of visitors. The accompanying reproduction of an Indian- ink drawing in the Grace Collection at the British Museum will be sufficient to give a pretty clear view of the locality. The following references answer to the numbers marked in the bird's-eye view : — I. The New Plantation. 2. The Bed Walk. 3. The Long Room, 60 feet by 18 feet. 4 & 5. The Pump Rooms. 6. House of Entertainment. 7. Ladies' Walk and HaU. 8. Two Kitchen Gardens. 9. Road to Highgate, &c. 10 & II. Coach ways to the Wells. 12. Footway from Red Lion St., Southampton Row, and Tottenham Court. 13. Footway from Gray's Inn. 14. Footway from Islington. 15. St. Pancras Church. 16. Old Church Yard. 17. New Church Yard. 18. Kentish Town. 19. Primrose Hill. 20. Hampstead. 21. Highgate. A description of the waters attached to this view informs us that they "are Surprisingly Successful in Curing the most Obstinate Scurvy, \, II i1 ". ,'i» -n 5.--, ' -srvio'ir- 14- 4 3« 1 ji Q r c' 'fF'. -%^ t ' 3 -i \ %^ <. ^ 3Lf™™|^,w A^ iiYfW^m '•AW'^ 3Y-s?'qi'yyi. ^'> 1; ^ r u\> ^ i^ St, PANCRAS WELLS. (From an old Drawing in black and white). PANCRAS WELLS. 157 King's Evil, Leprosy, and all other breakings out and defilements of the skin : Running Sores, Cancers, Eating Ulcers, the PUes (herein far excelling the Waters Holt), Surfeits or any Corruption of the Blood and Juices, the Rheumatism and all Inflamatory Distempers, most Dis orders of the Eyes or Pains of the Stomach and Bowels, loss of Appetite, sinking of the Spirits and Vapours, the most Violent Colds, Worms of all kinds in either young or old, &c." In an advertisement displaying the virtues of these waters published in The Craftsman of July 5th, 1722, there is a note to the following effect: — "N.B. As the credit of these wells hath much suffered for some late years, by encouraging of scandalous company, and making the long room a common dancing room, originally built and designed only for the use of gentlemen and ladies that drink the waters ; due care will be taken for the future, that nothing of the kind shall be allowed, or any disorderly person permitted to be in the walks." Very near to Pancras Wells was a sort of rival establishment, the Adam and Eve Gardens, which attained to considerable popularity as the resort of pleasure seekers, although they had not the attraction of a medicinal spring to offer. The gardens were attached to the Adam and Eve Inn (an establishment quite distinct from that at Tottenham Court Road), close by the old church of St. Pancras, and to judge by the following announcement, which appeared in a newspaper in the year 1786, were specially calculated to meet the material wants of visitors : — "Adam and Eve, Pancras. Charles Eaton respectfully begs leave to inform his friends and the publick in general, that he has, at a considerable expence, rendered his gardens and pleasure grounds commodious and fit for the reception of the genteelest company. A choice assortment of neat Wines, Foreign Spirituous Liquors, Cyder, and home brewed Ale. A good larder, and dinners dressed on the shortest notice for any number of persons. Societies and other public bodies will meet with every accommodation at the above house. A good Ordinary on Sundays. Tea, Coffee, and Hot Rolls, every morning and evening." 158 ST. PANCRAS. ST. CHAD'S WELL. Near Battle Bridge, in a smaU garden and shrubbery fronting Gray's Inn Lane, there w-as formerly a mineral spring, dedicated to St. Chad, Bishop of Lichfield. St. Chad was the founder of the see of Lichfield. According to Bede, joyful melody as of persons sweetly singing descended from heaven into his oratory for half an hour, and then mounted again to heaven. This was to presage his death, and accordingly he died, attended by his brother's soul and musical angels. The following account w-as pubhshed, in 1831, in Hone's Every Day Book : — " St. Chad's WeU is near Battle Bridge. The miraculous water is aperient, and was some }-ears ago quaffed by the bUious and other invalids, who flocked thither in crowds, to drink at the cost of sixpence, what people of these latter days hy ' the ingenious chemist's art,' can make as effectual as St. Chad's virtues ' at the small price of one halfpenny.' " If anyone desire to visit this spot of ancient renown, let him descend from Holborn Bars to the very bottom of Gray's Inn Lane. On the left-hand side formerly stood a considerable hUl, whereon were wont to climb and browze certain mountain goats of the metropolis, in common language called swine ; the hill was the largest heap of cinder-dust in the neighbourhood of London. It was formed by the annual accumulation of some thousands of cart loads, since exported to Russia for making bricks to rebuUd Moscow, after the conflagration of that capital on the entrance of Napoleon. Opposite to this unsightly sight, and on the right hand side of the road, is an angle-wise faded inscription — " It stands, or rather dejects, over an elderly pair of wooden gates, one whereof opens on a scene which the unnacustomed eye may take for the pleasure ground of Giant Despair. Trees stand as if not made to vegetate, clipped hedges seem wiUing to decline, and nameless weeds ST. CHAD'S WELL. 159 straggle weakly upon unlimited borders. If you look upwards you perceive painted on an octagon board, ' Health Restored and Preserved.' Further on towards the left, stands a low, old-fashioned, comfortable looking, large windowed dweUing ; and ten to one, but there also stands, at the open door, an ancient ailing female, in a black bonnet, a clean, colored cotton gown, and a check apron ; her silver hair only in part tucked beneath the narrow border of a friUed cap, with a sedate and patient, yet, somewhat inquiring look. This is 'the Lady of the Well.' She gratuftously informs you, that 'the gardens' of |35o' ' St. Chad's Well ' are ' for circulation ' by paying for the water, of which you may drink as much or as little, or nothing, as you please, at one guinea per year, 9s. bd. quarterly, 4s. 6i. monthly, or is. 6^. weekly. You qualify for a single visit by paying sixpence, and a large glass tumbler fuU of warm water is handed to you. As a stranger you are told that ' St. Chad's Well was famous at one time.' Should you be inquisitive, the dame will instruct you, with an earnest eye, that ' people are not what they used to be, and she can't tell what'U happen next.' Oracles have not ceased. WhUe drinking St. Chad's water you observe an immense copper into which it is poured, wherein it is heated to due efficacy, and from whence it is drawn by a cock, into the glasses. You i5o ST. PANCRAS. also remark, hanging on the waU, a 'tribute of gratitude,' versified and inscribed on vellum, beneath a pane of glass stained by the hand of time, and let into a black frame : this is an effusion for value received from St. Chad's invaluable water. But, above aU, there is a fuU sized portrait in oU, of a stout comely personage, with a ruddy countenance, in a coat or cloak, supposed scarlet, a laced cravat falling down the breast, and a smaU red night cap carelessly placed on the head, conveying the idea that it was painted for the likeness of some opulent butcher who flourished in the reign of Queen Anne. Ask the dame about it, and she refers you to ' Rhone.' This is a tall old man, who w-ould be taUer if he were not bent by years. ' I am ninety-four,' he wiU teU you, ' this present year of our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and twenty -five.' All that he has to communicate concerning the portrait is, ' I have heard say it is the portrait of St. Chad.' Should you venture to differ, he adds, 'this is the opinion of most people w-ho come here.' You may gather that it is his own undoubted belief. On pacing the garden alleys, and peeping at the places of retirement, }-ou imagine the whole may have been improved and beautified for the last time by some countryman of WiUiam III., who came over and died in the same }'ear with that king, and w-hose works here, in wood and box, have been following him ever since. " St. Chad's Well is scarcely known in the neighbourhood, save by its sign-board of invitation and forbidding externals. An old American loyalist, who has lived at Pentonville ever since ' the rebellion ' forced him to the mother country, enters to ' totter not unseen ' between the stunted hedgerows ; it was the first ' place of pleasure ' he came to after his arrival, and he goes no where besides, — ' everything else is so altered.' For the same reason a tall, spare, thin-faced man, with dull grey eyes and underhung chin, from the neighbourhood of Bethnal Green, walks hither for his ' Sunday morning's exercise,' to untruss a theological point with a law-clerk, w-ho also attends the place because his father, ' when he was 'prentice to Mr. , the great law stationer in Chancery Lane in 1776, and sat writing for sixteen hours a day, received great benefit from the waters, which he came to drink fasting, once a week.' Such persons from local attachment, and a few male and female atra- bUarians, who without a powerful motive would never breathe the pure morning air, resort to this spot for their health. St. Chad's WeU is TOTTENHAM COURT FAIR. i6i haunted, not frequented. A few years and it wiU he with its waters as with the water of St. Pancras' Well, which is enclosed in the garden of a private house, near old St. Pancras churchyard." Hone's prophecy has been fulfiUed. The glory of St. Chad's WeU has long ago entirely departed. On September 14th, 1837, " the Premises, DweUing-house, Large Garden, and Offices, with the very celebrated Spring of Saline Water caUed St. Chad's Well, which, in proper hands, would produce an inexhaustible Revenue, as its qualities are allowed by the first Physician to be unequalled," were sold at Garraway's Coffee House, Change Alley, Cornhill. A row of houses, called " St. Chad's Row," was afterwards built upon the spot. Old Joseph Munden, the comedian, when he resided in Kentish Town, was in the habit of visiting St. Chad's Well three times a week, and drinking its waters, as did the judge Sir Allan Chambre, when he lived at Prospect House, Highgate. Mr. Alexander Mensall, who for fifty years kept the Gordon House Academy at Kentish Town, used to walk with his pupils once a week to St. Chad's, to drink the waters, as a means of " keeping the doctor out of the house." A gentleman, who professed to have been relieved from a very deranged state of health by the use of these waters, placed in the pump room a poetical tribute to their praise, which thus concludes : — "Oh! were Physicians to their judgment true, "-Would give each plant, each spring, each herb, its due, "No foreign aid we need of Drugs compound, "To heal diseases or to cure a wound; " But doctors still, politically blind, "Deny the bliss, and torture half mankind." TOTTENHAM COURT FAIR. A fair was annually kept at the beginning of August in the fields on the right-hand side of the hedgerow of the road leading from St. Martin's-in-the-Fields to the old tavern known as the Adam and Eve. Upon the occasion of this fair, some of the actors from the chief London theatres, most celebrated for comic humour, entertained the visitors with droUs and interludes. They were, however, suppressed by the magistrates. An official proclamation issued by the Quarter Sessions L i62 ST. PANCRAS. of Middlesex, and pubhshed in The Daily Courant of July 22nd, 1827, sets forth that "this Court being informed that several common players of interludes have for several years used and accustomed to assemble and meet together at or near a certain place called Tottenhoe, ahas Tottenhal, ahas Tottenham Court, in the parish of St. Pancras, in this county, and to erect booths, and to exhibit droUs, and use and exercise unlaw-ful games and plays, w-hereby great numbers of his Majesty's subjects have been encouraged to assemble and meet together, and to commit riots and other misdemeanours, in breach of his ^lajestys peace ; " these interludes and droUs w-ere prohibited. " Whoever reads the foregoing Order," says a writer in The Craftsman of August 25th, 1827, "wiU have reason to suppose that the worshipful Gentlemen were in earnest, at the time of publication, to suppress all the unlawful Games, Plays, Drolls, and other shews, mentioned in it. That they are unlawful cannot be doubted, since so many of his Majesty's learned Justices of the Peace have declared them to be so ; and, therefore, I was in hopes that they would have put their Order rigorously into execution ; especiaUy since these vagabonds had the impudence to affront the Government and administration ; for whilst I w-as stopt in the crowd, there were tw-o jack-puddings entertaining the populace, from a gallery on the outside of one of the booths ; one of whom represented an Englishman, and the other a Spaniard. The English jack-pudding buUy'd the Spaniard for some time, and threatened to treat him as he deserved ; but Jack Spaniard defy'd him, bid him take care of his ears, and at last knock'd him down. I was shocked at such an insolent ridicule of our brave countrymen in our owm country, and expected to see the scandalous buffons taken into custody, but I don't hear that any examples had been yet made of them. This can be imputed to nothing but the neglect, or something worse, of ' the High Constable, and Petty Constables of Holbourn Division,' who were charged with the execution of the solemn Order; and, therefore, it is expected that their w-orships wiU make a strict enquiry at their next meeting, why their Order was not punctually obey'd ; this Fair not only tending to the encouragement of vice and immorality, as their Worships very justly observe, but even to sedition and disloyalty. It is not only frequented by pickpockets, sharpers, foot-pads, &c., to the CX3 CO of ... 4 Balthorp, Richard ... ... 188 , Berners, Charles ... 90 Bampfylde, Sir C. W., Bart. III Street . 47, 102-103 Bank of England, The ... 167 Street Hoax ... 102-103 BardweU, WiUiam 168-170 Berridge, Rev. — ... ... 139 Baretti, Giuseppe 23, III Berry, Henry . ... 76 Barking Abbey 3 Bertie, Charles 6 Barkstead, — , a regicide ... ... 70 Bethlem Hospital ... ... 197 Barn Field 56 Bethnal Green ... 160 Barnet Races ... 72 Bevington's ApoUonicon . ... 170 Barrow Hill ... ¦..75-78 Bevis, Dr. John 149-152 Barry, James... 103-104 Bibbins, Jos.... ... 80 Basset, Fulke, Bishop of London 173 Bilson's Farm ... 47 Bassompierre, The Marshal de ... 69 Birchin Lane ... 127 Battle Bridge 125, 126, 146, 149- Birnie, — ... 109 150, 158, 182, 186, 1S8, 201, 213 Bishopsgate ... ... 81 Bayham Street ... 191 Black Mary's Hole... .147-148, 150 Baynes, Walter ... 147 Blackfriars Bridge ... 83, 146 Bayswater ... 84 Blair, Capt ... 80 Beattie, James ... 62 Blandford Square ... ...64-65 Beck, Rev. — ... 139 Street ... 103 Bedford, Duke of 59. 84 Blessed Mary's WeU 148, 150 John, Duke of ... 193 Blewhouse Field . ... 56 Anns, Camden Town ... 209 Bloomsbury ... 146 House ... ... 59 Street . ... 84 Square ... 85. 179 " Blue Bottles" ... 80 Bedloe, Capt. WiUiam ... 76 " Posts," The ... .. 123 Behnes, The sculptor ... 29 Stocking Club," The ; ... 62 Belgrave Street ... 183 Blunt, WiUiam ... 190 BeU Field 51. 52 Boadicea, Queen 126 Bell, Dr. William ¦¦• 73 " Boarded House," The . ...40-41 Bennett, George ... 185 Boleyn, Queen Anne ^77 Bentinck, Lord George, Statue of 62 Bolsover Street 103 INDEX. 217 Bolton & Sparrow, Messrs. Bond Street Bononi, Joseph Booth, — Boscowen, Lieut. ... Boston, New England Boswell, James Bow Church, Cheapside ... Middlesex Street Bower Theatre, The Box, — Boydell, Alderman Bradshaw, John Braham and Yates, Messrs. Brampton Bryan Castle Brandon, Gregory ... , R Braughing, Manor of Bray, Sir Reginald Braybrooke, Robert, Bishop London Breadalbane, Earl of Brick Field ... BriU, The Bringhurst, - Brisco, John ... Britannia Theatre, British Museum Broad Street Street, St. Giles's Brocklesby, Dr. R Brooking, Charles ... Brougham and Vaux, Lord Broughton, — (prize-fighter) Broughton's Amphitheatre ... 115, 117, (constable)... The PAGE ... Ill ... 212 ... 64 ... 80 ... 141 ... 132 ... 167 ... 167 109, 140 ••¦ 155 ••• ^55 ... 136 ... 69 ... 171 99 .-• 75 ... 143 .•¦ 173 4 of II, 15 ... 142 ... 56 150, 213 122 ... 189 - ^55 9. 139 ... 138 ... 44 132 196 ... 206 Brown, John Browning, E. B. Brunt, — (a shoemaker) Brunswick, The Duke of House of Square ... Bryanston Square ... Buckingham, Duke of Buckingham Street... Buckland, F. T. ... "Bumble-puppy," a game Bunhill Fields Burke, Edmund Burn, J. S Burton, Decimus Burton-way (Field) ... Butcher's Field Bute, Earl of Byron, Lord Cabbell, George ... " Cabinet Theatre," The Csesar, Julius Sir Julius 42 Caledonian Church, Hatton Garden Calthorpe, Lord Cambridge, Duke of Camden, Earl Lady Town ... PAGE 8 io5 107 ••¦ T-55 ... 126 145, 207 ...65-66 42, 70 ... 103 ... 207 124 82 62, 103 30 53. 54. 89, 164 56 51 72 25 61 185 115, 126 177 142 ... 204 199 118 181 117, 146, 191, 209 CampbeU, Thomas ... Canewood Cannon Street Cansick, F. T. Cantelows Canterbury Cathedral 123 Capper's Farm 105 213 167 134 III, 187, 189 172 2I0-2II 2l8 INDEX. 103, 10 104 108 116 185 84 PAGE Carey, John 6 Carleton, John de ... ... ... 119 Carlton House ... ... ... 53 Carnaby Market 138 "Carpenter's Arms" The... ... 68 Cartwright, Richard ... ... 91 Cary, George Saville ... ... 36 Casali, The Chevalier ... 198, 200 Casley, Mr., Keeper of the Cot tonian Library Castle Street East Castlereagh, Lord Casvelhan, King Catalini, Madame Catherine, Queen, of Braganza ... Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square ... Catley, Anne .. Cato, Street ... Cave, W' alter Cavendish Square ... 61-62, 104 Chad, Capt. ... Chaldfleet Chalk Farm ... Chambers, Sir William Chambre, Sir Allen... Chancery Lane Chandos, John Duke of ... Chantrey, the sculptor Chapman, Rev. Mr. Charles I. ... 5, 69, 70, II 5, 55 77. Charles Thomas Charity School, St. Pancras Charlotte Street Charlotte's, Queen, Lying-in Hospital 142-143 .. 35 106-109 , . . 204 127 185 174 167 25 161160 6129 18 198148 ,.. 187 192-19384, 104 57 119 84 Charterhouse, The 167, 197 Chartley Chatterton, Thomas CheapsideChelsea Hospital Chesterfield, Philip Earl of Philip Dormer, Earl of Street ... Chilham Castle, Kent ChingfordChipping Barnet . . Chiswell Street Christ Church, Stafford Street Christ's Hospital Church, John Clare Market Clarence, Duke of ... Clarke, G. S. Clarke, Sir William... Claxton, Mr Clayton, William Cleeve, Thomas Clerkenwell ... 146, 149, Clinch, George Clinch, Tom ... Clipstone Street Cloudesley, Richard College, James Collier, William CoUins, — , a nurseryman Colosseum, The Connaught Place ... Constable, John Coombe Bassett Cooper, Lieut. John Copenhagen House ... Coppice Row Coram, John 155. ... 119 136-137 167 197 5555 183163 88 189 82 28 197 83 44 142 28 6 37 72 188 167, 186 686999 132 7273 182 164-171 68 104 190 182 213 149193 INDEX. 2ig Coram, Thomas 193, 196, 197, 199-201 Corbet, — , a regicide 70 Cornhill ... ... ... ... 167 Cornwall, Barry ... ... 104, 207 Terrace 53, 97 Corpus Christi College, Oxford ... 83 Cosmorama, The ... ... 172-173 Cotes, Francis, R.A. ... ... 104 Coutts & Co. ... 127 Covent Garden Theatre .. 44, 169 Coventry, Thomas ... ... ... 188 Cowley, Abraham ... ... ... 97 Cowper, William 54, 62 Grace Collection, British Museum 32, 54. 156 Cramer, William ... ... ... 25 Crassus, M 115 Craven, John ... ... ... 190 Chapel ... ... ... ... 139 Crompton, Lieut. John ... ... 181 Cromwell, Oliver 5, 69, 82, 121, 126, 199 Crosby Square ... .. ... 139 Crown Street... ... ... . . 139 Crozet, — , carver in Cruickshank, George ... ... 70 Cumberland, WUliam Duke of ... 61 Square 53 Cupid 35 Cutler, Gray 37 Cyclops, The 35 Cyclorama, The, of Lisbon ... 170 Dalling, James Danson, — ... Dare, Lieut. .. Dark, — Darwin, Charles 38 170 80 86 208 Davey, Sir Humphrey Davidson, — (a man of colour) Davis, Miss, a vocalist Dawson, Nancy Day, Charles... "Deadly Never Green" ... De Courcy, Rev. — De Kaunteloe Dekker, Thomas Delamain, Lieut. De la Place, Mr Denis, Sir Peter Derby, Earl of Derrick, . — , a hangman ... Deschamps, John ... Despair, Giant Destrode, Charles Devonshire Terrace... Dickens, Charles Dickie, — 155 Dimmock, — , a coachmaster ... 72 Diocletian, Emperor ... ... 131 Diorama, The 171, 172 Dissenting Chapels in Marylebone 29-30 Dixon, Capt. John ... Dixon, Mrs Dodd, Dr Domesday Book, The Dorset Square Douce, Mr Sir Edmund ... Doughty Street Downing, Edward ... Downman, Lieut. John Drury Lane Theatre Dryden John ... Dudley, Sir Robert... 89 107 33 43-44 6067 139118 75 80 7 190 4 75 19 158190105 105, 207, 208 181 181 74, 75, 208-209 118-119 64, 86 10 21 207 57 181 44. 99 75' 97. 153 ... 119 220 INDEX. Dun, " Esquire'' Duncannon, Viscount Duncomb, George . Dupper Field "Dust-hole, The" ... Dutch Barn Field ... Dyer, H. M EalingEast India House, The East Mouldsey, Surrey Eastbourne ... Edgware Road Edmondson's Barn ... Edmonton Edward the Confessor II Ill Edwards, — (a spy) Grace ... "Eight String Jame" Eldon, Lord Chancellor . Eldeva Eleanor, Queen of Henry Elgin Marbles Eliot, George Ehzabeth, Queen ... 4 Elliott, Adjutant WiUiam . Elm Tree Road Elonore, Alexander... Mary Epping Forest Erechtheium, The ... Erldesby, William de Essex ... Etna, Mount Euston Road III. 69, 7580 118 52 185 56 60 73 167 188 92 68, 106 • 45 • 174 • 57 ¦ ^75 . 176 08-109 190 . 72 ¦ 177 • 57 • 174169 • 65 9, 120 , 182 . 104 • 134 • 134 i8, 167 • 137 . 176 . 167 ¦ 25 ¦ 58 Evans, Marian ... ... ... 65 Eve, Francis... ... 132 Laurentia ... ... ... 132 Robert 131-132 Thomas 132 Exeter 93 John Holland, Duke of ... 177 Lord 184 Exhibition, The Great, of 1851 164, 170 Eyre, Samuel 55 " Arms, The" 56 Fags-wellFairlop Oak, The ... Faraday, Michael ... Farringdon Road Street ... Felton, John... Female Charity School Ferguson, James Ferrand, — (performer bariton) ... Ferrers, Joan, Lady Lord Robert, Lord ... Fetter Lane ... Fielding, Sir John .. Figg. James Finsbury Street Fitzalan, Joan Fitzclarence, Capt.... Fitzroy, Hon. Charles Rt. Hon. Gen. Square ... Five Acres, The Flanders, Mr. 146 137 103 146146 70 ...190, 192-193 25 upon the 33-34 119 70-71 119 187 72 24, 40-42 45 82 4 109 "9 139, 190109 51 ... 37 INDEX. 221 Flaxman, John Fleet-Dftch Fleet, River ... Street ... Flower, Prof. W. H. Foley, Lord ... . Street ... Forbes, Mr. ... George . . Fordyce, John Forset Family Vault Forset, Arabella Edward 103 150 131, 146, 150 167, 191 89 28 104 32 38 •• 50. 51, 53 18 4 4,5 81 189, 191 Fort Street ... Fortress Field Foundling Hospital, The 44, "7, 145, 149, 193-201 Fountayne, Rev. John ... 7,98-99 Four Acre Field 56 Foyster, Samuel ... 14^ Franklin, Benjamin i97 " Fraternitye of St. George " ... 81 French Chapel 30, 37 Refugees 132 Revolution 91.132 Frenchbourne, Simon 187 Fuller, Thomas 68 FuseU, Henry 102, 104 Gainsborough, Thomas Gardiner, Messrs. ... Charlotte 197 155177 87, 88 Garnerin, A. J Garraway's Coffee House, CornhiU 161 Garrick, Mrs. Gaunt, Elizabeth Gay, John, the poet 75 42 PAGE 128 204 199 65 203 Geary, Stephen GeU, ThornhiU George II 195, III., Jubilee of IV. 84, 91, 126, 128, 202, "George and Blue Boar, The"... 69 George Street ... 80, 104, 205, 208 Gibbs, — a vocalist James ... Gibbon, Edward Gibbons, Grinling ... Rev. Thomas ... Gibson, Thomas Giffard, Dr. Andrew Gilpin, WilHam Gloucester, Duke of Gloucester Gate Glyptotheca, The ... Goddard, — Godfrey, Sir E. B. ... Godwin, Mary M. W. Goldington Street ... Goldsmith, Oliver ... Gordon, Lord George House Academy Riots Square ... Goswell Street Gothic Aviary Gough, Mr., proprietor of bone Gardens ... A. D Daniel ... ... 155 22 101-102 ... 134 ... 139 6 ... 139 ... 137 ... 202 .•¦ 173 168, 169 ... 96 ...76-77 ... 208 ... 135 ... 117 ... 62 ... 138 ... 161 ... 177 ... 142 ... 167 ... 170 Maryle- Gould's Gift Gower Street Grafton, Charles, Duke of 84, 179, 32 131 37 191 208 119 222 INDEX. Graham, James Sir James, Bart. Grand Junction Road Gray, Family of Gray's Inn Lane 107, 123, Inn Road Gravel Pit Field Great Coram Street Field Garden Field ... HiU Field Robin's Field ... Titchfield Street Grecian Theatre, The Green, G. P. Robert Berry HiU Lane, The Street ... Greenland Place, Somerstown Greenwich Hospital Gregory the Great Greville Street Grey, Samuel Griffin, Mr., Showman Griffith, Charles Grosvenor, Rev. Benjamin Square ... ... 71, Gwynne, Eleanor ... 148- Hacker, — a regicide Hainault Forest, Essex Hallam, Henry Hamey, Baldwin, M.D. ... HamUton, Major Emma, Lady . . . 204 ... 25 ... 84 ... 131 158, 190 147, 203 ... 51 ... 208 ... 56 ... 56 ... 56 ... 56 III ... 155 ... 199 .. 76 ...75-76 ... 47 ... 187 ... 188 190 167, 197 ... 131 ... 202 6 ... 44 ... 153 ... 139 72, 108 149, 155 70 -.. 137 ... 106 ... 191 ... 79 99-100 Hamilton, Sir William Place 99-100. 127 • 51 Hammond, Thomas Hampstead, 44, 45, 97, 146, 149, 167, 187 Churchyard ... ... ... 140 Road ... ... ... 138, 192 Hampton-upon-Thames ... ... 191 Handel, G. F. .. 98, 99, 184, 199, 200 Hanging Field Harcourt, Lieut. John, M.P House ... Street ... Hardwicke, Lord Chancellor Philip, R.A Thomas Hardy, Capt. Harleian Manuscripts Harley, Edward, Earl of Oxford • 56 . 80 • 57 57' 61 • 56 106 25, 28 25, 29 . 185 8, 10 and Mortimer - Lady Margaret Cavendish - Sir Robert - Street ... Harrington, Earl of Harris's Field Harrison, Col. Thomas Wilmot Harrowby, Lord Hatton Garden Street ... Hayley, W. ... Hayman, Francis ... Haymarket, The Haytley, — artist ... Hawkins, — Heale & Son, Messrs. Heathcote, Dr. 44 9 104 71 51 5 103 108, 109 142, 194, 202 ... 140 24 197 125, 127 197 154 210, 211 ... 198 INDEX. 223 Heneage, Thomas ... Henning, — Junr. ... Henrietta Maria, Queen Henry III VII.'s Chapel Abbey ... ¦ VIII. ... ¦¦¦ 57 169 ... 69 170, 173 Westminster 69 81, 120, 177 71 Hensey, Dr. ... Heron, William ... ... ... 186 Hertford, Marquis ... ... 54, 64 Hertfordshire ... ... ... 167 Heslop, Rev. Archdeacon ... 25 Heyfield, Joanna ... 41 Hidon, — ... ... ... ... 109 High Street, St. Giles's 68 Highgate, 125, 146, 149, 161, 167, 186, 188, 189, 191, 196 Archway HiU Highmore, A. . . Joseph ... Highway Robbery at St. Hill, Lawrence Richard Sir Richard Rev. Rowland Field Hinde, Jacob . Peter Hoare, Henry . Prince ... 167 202 202 197 Pancras 212 76 118 52 139 51 66 204 198 4 Hobson, Thomas Hocher, Mr., Deputy Keeper of the Records in the Tower ... 10 Hodgkinson, Sampson ... 22, 36 Hogarth, William 42, 123, 195, 196, 197, 199 FAGE 16-18 144: 162, Hogarth's " Rake's Progress " Holborn 68, 117, 125, 140, 145. 158 " Holborn Bars, The" Holcroft, Thomas Holdbrook, Richard Holebourne, The River ... Holland, John, Duke of Exeter ... 177 Holles, John, Duke of Newcastle 4 Holt & Scheffer, Messrs. ... ... iii Holy Maid of Kent 69 Trinity, Priory of, Aldgate, 173-174 Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone 28 167 ... 123 ,.. 99 ... 52 146-148 Home Field ... Seven Acres Field ... Hone, William 123, Honorable Artillery Company, The Hone, William Hood, Lord ... Thomas Hook, Theodore Hooper, Ann ... Hoppner, John Horn, Thomas Horn Castle ... Rev. Thomas Hartwell Horner, — (of Rathbone Place) . . 77, Hornor, Thomas Hornsey Hotham, Lord HoxtonHoyle, Edmund HudsonHughes, — , proprietor of Bagnigge Wells 151 Hunt, — , card-maker 52 51 124 , 82 161 106 104 103187 138 17 56 10 170 164, 165, 170 .. 191 77 81, 167 24 199 152III 224 INDEX. Hunt, Leigh... Hunting in Marylebone Park Huntingdon, Countess of ... Mr Hyatt, Rev. John ... Miss, a vocalist Hyde Park 104 5 ... 141 30 139 34 77, 84, 167, 181 107 Ings, — (a butcher) Inner Circle ... ... ... ... 8g Innoculating Hospital ... ... 213 " Inns of Court Hotel, The" ... 69 Insula, William de. Earl Warren, &c 3 Inwood, William ... ... ... 137 Ipsley, Sir John ... ... ... 5 Ireton, Henry ... ... ... 69 Irving, Rev. Edward ... 105, 142 Islington ... 58, 81, 120, 147, 149, 167, 186, 187 Ive, Family of ... ... ... 132 Richard ,,. ... ... 132 Thomas ... ... ... 132 " Jack Pudding " . " Jack Spaniard" Jackson, John Jacob, John ... Jacobson, Theodore. Jacomb, Lucy Robert ... Jacombe, William . James I. Jameson, Anna Jeffrey, Nicholas Jeffreys, Sir Jeffery.. John 44, 162162 ... 191 6 ... 199 6 6 6 4, 120 ... 105 ... 118 ... 118 ... 118 Jenkins's Nursery ... Jenner, Dr. William " Jew's Harp, The "' Harp, Islington John, King ... Johnson, — , pugilist Lieut. ... Dr. Samuel Jones, Humphry Inigo John Nathan Jonson, Ben ... Joss, Rev. Torial PAGE 60 202, 205 45. 47, 49. 125 49 120, 121 211 80 ...62, 104, 132 136 61 191 72 196 139 Kaunteloe ... ... ... ... 118 Kean, Charles ... ... .,. 208 Kempton ... .. ... ... 188 KendaU, Richard 51, 52, 120 Kenrich, Dr. William Kensett, — , cabinet-maker Kensington Gardens Kent, Duchess of ... Kent, Holy Maid of KentessetonneKentish Town 118, 133, 139, 146, 161, 186, 187, 189, Kentish Town Volunteer Association Ketch, Jack Kilbornecroft... ... ... 133, igi Kilburn Bridge no King, Philip 118 " King's Ancient Concert Rooms, The" 184 Cross 117, 125-128 " Cross Theatre, The" ... 185 Head Court 187 ... 36 ... Ill 84, 167 ... 203 ... 69 ... 132 213 181 75 INDEX. 225 King John's Palace... Kingsthorp Kinsman, Rev. — ... Kneller, Sir Godfrey Knerler, — , a violinist Knight, Charles Rev. Joel J.P.. R-A Knightly, Rose Laffan, Sir J. de C. " Lamb," the public-house Lamb, Charles Mary William Lamb's Conduit ... 144, Conduit Fields Conduit Street Lambert, George Sir Henry Lambeth Lampe, Mrs., Jun., a vocalist Landseer, Sir Edwin, R.A. Lanza, Gemaldo La Roache, Eleanor Leadenhall Street ... Lebartz, John Lee, Walter Lee & Sons, Messrs. Henry Leech, John ... Leeds, Duke of Leicester House Square ... Lejeune, Capt. Phillip Lely, Sir Peter Leo X., Pope Lever, Sir D'Arcy p PAGE 120 ... 175 ... 139 196 ¦•. 33 ... 65 ... 139 ... 193 .¦• 133 90 ... 146 IOI, ig6IOI ... 144 145, 146 200, 201 149, 194196 ... 80 190 ... 34 104 ... 184 ... 72-73 ... 167 ... 177 19 ... 179 ... 207 6, 201 83, 84 83, 209 ... 181 ... 149 ... 198 82 Lever, Sir Ashton Leverett, — ... Leverton & Chawner, Messrs. Leyton, Essex Lichfield Light Horse Volunteers Lilestone, Manor of Lisbon, Cyclorama of Lisson Fields Green ... Grove ... Little Blewhouse Field Hay Field Robin's Field ... Titchfield Street Welbeck Street Liverpool Street Lloyd, WilHam Dr. Williams ... Locker, E. H. Lockhart, Mrs. J- G Loders-well ... Lodge Field Lollards, The Lombard Street London Association, The Defences of, 1643 Grand Panorama Skating Club ... Tower of 167, 173, Long's Bowling Green, Marylebone Long, Robert ... ... 37 Forty Acres Mead, The Lord, Thomas Lord's Cricket Ground ... 64, 181 ...82, 85 ... 211 ... 53 ... 176 ... 158 203, 204 ... 57 170 ••• 57 •..57-58 46, 57-58 ... 56 ... 56 ... 56 ... 99 ... 65 183 5777 -88 106 io5 146 52 68 127 177117 169 85 176 43 , 38 5151 86 127, ...87- 226 INDEX. " Lousy Jack" Lover, Samuel Lowe, Thomas Ludgate HUl... 140 105 .-• 33, 35. 36, 37. 38 167 Lully, Raymond, a Jew of Terragona 176 . . , of Palma 175 Lyell, Sir Charles ... ... ... 104 Lysons, Daniel ... 115, 116, 118, 130 Lyttelton, Lord 62, 63 Marylebone, Ancient Name Domesday Account of Old Church of Bowling Green CelebritiesCricket Club .. Farm ... Gardens Lane Manor House .. Park . Road . 3 3 100 42. 43 93, 101-106 86-87 53. 90. 120 30-39. 98 ... 80 ... 6-8 48. 50-53. 55- 123-124 39. 40. 46, 58. 104 Volunteers, The Macbeth, Lady Macclesfield, Earl of Macdonald, William Macnamara, Captain Macready, W. C. ... Maiden Lane Maize Hill, Greenwich Manby, — Manchester, Duke of Square ... 79 98 199177 77 105 213 190 82 64 64, 96, IOI, 183 Mandubrace, King of London 115, 116 Mansfield, Lord 213 Mansion House 64, 167 Marsden, A. E., M.D 204 Marsden, WUliam ... Mapother, E. D., M.D, Margaret Street MargateMark Antony Marryat, Frederick Martin, John... Matilda, Queen of King Stephen Mays, Miss, a vocalist Mead, Dr Mecklenberg Square Medley, Rev. — Mensall, Alexander ... Mer de Glace Messer, — , a coach-builder Methodists ... Middle Field... Temple, The Middlesex Hospital, The... ... 89 Midland Railway Company Middleton, Thomas... Miller, John Major Commandant James MiUs, J. N Milne, Rev. J. G Milner, John ... MUton, John Minto, Lord ... Mitchie, Andrew Montague, Hon. Edward .. Elizabeth House ... Lady Mary Wortley.. Matthew Square ... ... 65, 66, Montgomery, Lieut.-Col. ... PAGE202 104 III 92 126106 54 173 34 199145 139 161 170III 93 56 104167 IIO134 75 187 181 191 204 57' 199 97 773862 62-6362-63 42 63 04, III 77 INDEX. 227 PAGE 204 104138 170 53, 55 171III 138 33 33. 191 8152 III158117 161 92 167 Moore, George Thomas Moorfields Mont Blanc Morgan, James & Pugin, Messrs. Moriand, — George ... More, — , a grocer ... Morrant, John Morris, Sir Christopher Mortimer, Richard ... Street ... Moscow " Mother Redcap, The " Munden, Joseph Murray, Lady MusweU HiU NaplesNapoleon I. ... Nares, Rev. Robt. ... Nash, John ... National Gallery Neale, Lieut. "Nelson," Horatia ... Lord Nether Paddock New London Tavern, Cheapside Oxford Street River Company Head Road, The ... 57, 58-61, 213 " Royal West London Theatre, The" 184 Newbury Port . 141 Newcastle, Duke of 4 100, 125 89, 158 10 6, 53. 55 ... 198 ... 80 99-101 77, 99-100 52 20T 84 144 149 Newgate Market ... Newman Street Nichol, Isabel Nine Acres, The Noel, Capt. ... Nollekens, Joseph ... Nollet, Michel Eloy Norden, John North Bank " London Athenseum, The" 185 or University College Hospital ... ... ... 205-206 North Road, The 167 Northumberland, Duke of ... 90 Nottingham Street ... ... ... 80 . 73, 74, 167 ... 166 ... 105 ... 191 ... 56 ... 185 . 73. 74. 105 ... 30 129-130, 131 65, 86 Oak Tree Field .. 56 Gates, Titus .. 76 Okey, — , a regicide .. 70 Old Bailey .. 73 Farthing Pie House, The 46, 47. 59 Street .. 149 Oldcastle, Sir John •• 149 Oldenshaw, Phillis .. 133 William .. 133 Oliver, Mr .. 100 Onslow, Mr. Speaker ..48-49 Orange Street Chapel .. 209 O'Rourke, Paddy •• 155 Osnaburgh Street • 53 Ossultone Hundred .. 57 Otto, M., French Ambassador . .. 63 Overbury, Sir Thomas .. 69 Oxford, Edward, Earl of ... 10 Earl of 4. 9, 106 Lord .. 62 228 INDEX. 8-10 72-84 96, no, 167 155 184 123-124, 139, 149 123 90 130 175 191 191 136, 185, 192 119-20 131 Oxford House Road Street ... Ozealey, — ... Pache, Miss .. Paddington 45, 58, 98, " Drag, The" ... Paine, J. Paley, William Palma, Majorca Palmer, Eleanor John Samuel ... Pancras, Manor of ... Road Wash Wells Pancratius, Saint Panizzi, Sir Anthony Park Crescent Lane Square ... Village East ... West Parkes, John .. Parkinson, James Parsons, Rev. Edward Parris, E. T Parrot, An old, at Marylebone Manor House .. Pasqualis, Francis .. Peake, John ... Pearce, Matthew Pears, — , perfumer.. PeckweU, Dr. Pennant, Thomas .. 53' 156-157 .. 131 .. 180 .. 53 ... 67 171 5353 41 83 139 166, 169 184140140III 139 42 Pentonville ,.. Pepys, Lieut. John Samuel ... Percy Chapel PericlesPerny, Bernard Henry ... Peto & Grissell, Messrs Peto, Sir Morton, Bart. PiccadillyPiercy, Rev. — Pightle (Field) Pinder of Wakefield, The Piozzi, M. ... Pitt, James ... WUliam Street ... Platt, William Plowden, Lieut. Plunket, Oliver Pool, Miss ... Pope, Alexander Porter, David Portland, Duke of William, 2nd Duke of WiUiam H. C. B., Duke of Margaret Cavendish ... Family Vault ... Place ... Road Portman Square Family ... Portsmouth ... Post Office, The New (General) Pott, Archdeacon ... Pound Field Pownall, Lieut. 58, 147, 167182 31 193137 30 191164 172167139 SI 148185 192 106140 188 8070 184 6265 25, 28 4 24 9 18, 24 48, 53 44 62-64 6270 167 198 52 80 INDEX. 229 185176 8079 117 166 76 190121 "Philharmonic, The" Philippa, Queen of Edward III. Phillips, T Phipps, Lieut.-Col Phoenix Street Physicians, Old College of Prance, — , a conspirator ... Pratt Street Price, — (a smith) ... Primrose Hill ...47, 75-78, 149, 167 Prince Consort, The ... ... 84 " Prince of Wales' Royal Theatre, The" 184 Prince Regent ... 6, 53, 91, 97 Pritchard, W. T 204 Procter, B. W 104, 207 Prospect Place, Walworth ... 187 " Providence Chapel " . . ...29-30 Prynn, — 155 Pugin, A. W. N 128 Pulteney, William ... ... ... 62 " Pyed Bull, The," Ishngton ... 120 Quain, Sir Jones ... , Richard Queen Anne's Square Anne Street ... Square ... Queen's Head and Artichoke 44-45, " Theatre, The " Queenhithe ... Rad-well Raffles, Sir Stamford Rainbow Coffee House Raleigh, Sir Walter Ramsay, — 104104 64 105117 124 184173 146 89 191120 199 Ramsay, Allen Rann, John ... Raphael's cartoons ... Rathbone Place Raworth, — , a vocaUst Red Lion Inn, Holborn Street .170, "Regency Theatre, The" Regent's Canal Regent's Park 48, 50-54, 78, 81 84-88, 89, 97, 168, 172, 173 Basin ... 25 ..71-73 198-199 170 ... 33 ,.. 69 144-149 .. 184 55 Square Presbyterian Church Street ... Reid, — , chair-maker Relham, Anthony .. Reynolds, Sir Joshua Rhodes, A. C. Christopher Richardson, G. Ritchie, — River of Wells, The Robarts, Curtis, & Co. Robert Street Roberts, Mary Robinson, Ensign ... P. F Robson, John Rocque's map of London Roehampton ... Rome ... Romney, George Rose of Normandy, The Tavern, Marylebone 53, Rotherhithe ... Roumieu, — ... Rowley, Dr. ... 177 53 142 172 III ... 25 61, 62-104 140 1 40 .. 51 ... 143 1 46 127 ... 139 ... 177 ... 181 ... 168 ... 127 150 118116 104 43-44 37-42 193 131 138 46-47 230 INDEX. Royal Academy Botanic Society 198 84-89 Royal Clarence Theatre, The"... 185 — Exchange, The ... ... 167 — Free Hospital, The ... 202-206 Royal King's Cross Theatre, The" 185 Panarmonion Gardens Toxophilite Society, The "Royaky, The" Rubens, P. P Rugg Moor Ruggemere, Manor of Rushworth & Co. ... Russell, Lord John... John R3'e House Plot Rysbrach, J. M 24, Sadler, Thomas Sadler's Wells St. Andrew ... St. Andrew's, Holborn ¦ Churchyard, Holborn HaU St. Anne's, London... St. Bartholomew's Hospital St. Botolph, Aldgate St. David St. Dunstan's Church Villa St. Chad Portrait of St. Chad's Row WeU ,St. Ethelburg, Bishopgate... St. George St. George's, Bloomsbury ... 1S2-184 ...81-86 52 St. George's Hospital Row, Bayswater 198 120120 127 .. 203 ... 25 70, 75 38, 197 70 44, 185 ... 128 146 202 ... 105 ... 191 ... 167 ... 174 ... 128 ... 54 ..•54-55¦ • 158160 ... 161 158-161 . . 167 ... 128 ... 146 St. Giles's - Bowl - Pound 197 57 146 68-69 no St. Helena 89 St. James's Church ... ' 138 Palace 53 Street 127 St. John of Jerusalem, Hospital of 55, 57 St. John's Street 155. 167 Wood 55, 86, III Great 55 Chapel ... ... 29, 96, III Lane ... ... ... 56 Little, at Highbury ... 55 St. Katharine's Lane 177 St. Katharine, Royal Hospital of 173-178 St. Martin-in-the-Fields 161 St. Mary's Church, Wyndham Place St. Mary Woolnoth, Church of St. Marylebone Church (Old) St. Marylebone Church (New) Volunteers St. Michael's, CornhiU St. Pancras ... Old Church of 121, 129-137 Church (New)... Charities Churchyard Volunteers St. Patrick St. Paul St. Paul's Cathedral 149 125, 131, 165, 167, 26 167 •••15-25 25-26 ... 87 ... 167 X15-214 150, 193 ¦•• 137 186-192 211 182128134 168 208 181 INDEX. 231 St. Paul's, Canons of 118 Church, Great Portland Street 29 Cross 69 Dean and Chapter of iig-120, 129 School'... ... ... ... 167 St. Peter 134 St. Peter's Church, Northampton 175 Church, Vere Street... ...28-29 St. Sepulchre's Church 74 St. Thomas's Hospital 197 Salisbury, Earl of 201 Saltpetre Field 51 Salvation Army, The 185 Sam's Royal Library 127 Sanderson, — 93 Sanderson, John .. ... ,.. 198 Sandhills 117 Sarnen, Valley of ... ... ... 172 Scott, Sir Claude, & Co 127 Rev. Edward 60 Sir Walter 106 Scroggs, Lord Chief Justice ... 76 Seaford 92 Selwyn, George 74 Seymour, Lord Robert 91 Street 107 Shakespeare, WiUiam 63, 97, 98, 196 School of 36 Sharp, William 95-97 Shaw, George, M.D., &c 83 Rev. Stebbing 10 Shea, Capt 89 Shee, Sir M. A., P.R.A 104 Shelley, P. B 208 Shepherd, Robert 72 Shepherd's Market 139 Sheppard, Jack 68, 70 Sherlock, William Shillibeer, J. ... Shirley, James Rev. Walter ShoreditchShort Forty Acres Sice, Thomas Siddons, Mrs. Sarah Sidmouth, Lord Six Acre Field Six Closes, The "Sixteen String Jack" Skinners, Company of WeU Slipe, The (meadow) Sloman SmaU-Pox Hospital Smiles, Samuel Smirke, Sir Robert Smith, George J.C. ... J.T. ... John ... Sydney ... Thomas Smithers, — (Bow Smithfield Market Smock Race ... Snow Hill Soane, Sir John, R Soho ... Somers, William Town ... , 130 . 46 . 68 • 139 . 81 • 51 17 97-98 , 108 56 5171 117146 56 ^55 201-202 3026 209200 8, 7370 106 18, 22, 36, 59 Street Officer) 109 58, 167 163 144 28 76 72 146, 147, 213 A. 119, Somerset, Duke of Edward, Duke of House . . South Kensington Museum 206 5776 199 232 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Southampton, Lord .. 119 Stukeley, WilUam, Dr. II5-II6 House, Bloomsbury ... .. 117 Surrey, Earl of 3-4 Row .. 149 Sussex, Duke of ...179, 203-204 Southcott, Joanna ••93-97 Gardens 84 SouthweU, Robert .. 69 Place 106 Spanish Armada .. 81 Swain, Edward, Son of 57 Spanish Place 54, 106 Sykes, A. B vi. Spital House, Highgate ... .. 186 Spital Square .. 81 Tarlton's Jests 67 Spenser, Edmund .. 97 Tavistock Square ... 208 Spring Field .. 56 Tayler, Thomas 24 Squibb, — , a vocalist .. 35 Taylor, — , a vocalist 33 Stacye, Mrs . 122 John 67 Stafford, A. M .. go Telbin, — 170 Staines, R .. 60 Temple Bar, London 70 Stamford HiU .. 167 Terry west, John 41 Stanhope, Charles ... .. 55 Thackeray, W. M. ... 208 Edward .. 187 Thames, River ... 167 Lady H. L .. 106 Theseus, Temple of... 170 Stanton, Francis ' . .. 188 Thirty Acres, The ... 52 Stephen, King .• 173 Thistlewood, Arthur 106-109 Stewart, George .. 51 Thompson, Capt. 80 Stockwell .. 187 Sir Henry 206 Stoddart, — , a pianoforte maker. .. Ill Horatia " Nelson " IOI Stokes, Mrs., the City Champione ss Thorney Island 13-14 40, 41 Thoroughgood, — . . 155 Storace, Stephen •• 23 Thorrington, H. 183 Storer, Miss .. HI Tidd, — (a shoemaker) 107 Stothard, Thomas •• 105 "Tieburne" 68 Stout, — , Timber Merchant ., Ill Tilbury 81 Stow, John 5 & Co., Messrs. 60 Strand, The i 27, 167 Titus, Arch of 170 Stratford .. 167 Tode-well 146 Place .. 106 Tonbridge Chapel ... 139 Strode, Sir George 5 Tornick, Matthias ... 138 William, Lieut. -Gen. 61 Toole, William 92 Stubbs, George •• 25 Toplady, Rev. A. M. 140, 209-210 INDEX. 233 Toppesfield, Manor of 132 Torrington Square ... ... 84, 208 Totenhall, William de ... ... 121 Manor of 118-119 Court 120, 121, 122, 187, 189, 192 Tottenham Court Road 90, 138- 141, 146, 149, 157, 185, 191 Fair 161-163 Street 185 " Street Theatre, The" ... 184 " Theatre, The" ... 184-185 Tottingham, Mrs 102-103 Tower HiU 177 Street 167 Toxophilite Ground 85 Society... ... ... ...85-86 Trollope, Anthony 65 Triumphal Arch across the New Road 54 Trusler, Dr 16 John 34 Tunbridge T17 Turner, Mrs 69 J. M. W 105 TurnmiU Brook, The 146 Twenty Acres (meadow) 56 Acre Field 56 Twenty-nine Acres, The 52 Twenty-two Acre Field 56 Tybourne, The River 10-14 Tyburn, Conduits at 5 Manor of 3, 4. 5 Lane 67 Road 67 " Tippet, A" 75 Tree 67-75 University College, London 179-181 Upchurch, Kent 176 Upton... ... ... ... ... 175 Upper Baker Street ... ...97-98 Bryanston Street ... ... 68 Usborne, Miss ... ... ... 204 Utber, Richard ... ... ... 118 Vane, Sir Harry ... ... ... 119 Vandrebrank, John... ... ,,. 24 Vatican, The 168 Vennes, Miss ... ... ... in Venus, Temple of ... ... 35, ii5 Vere, Aubrey de, Earl of Oxford 28 Joan de ... ... ... 3 Robert de 3 Verley, Thomas ... ... ... 109 Vesta, Temple of 170 Voltaire, F. M. A. de 63 Victoria, Queen ... ...gi, 203, 204 Vincent, Mrs., a vocalist 33-34 Vulcan, Forge of, at Marylebone Gardens 35-3^ Walch, Master — 184 Wale, Samuel, R.A. 197 Wales, — , cabinet-maker iii Prince of 84, 203 Walker, John 136 WaU, Alexander 51 Waller, J. G. n, 13, 146 Walpole, Horace 59 Walsingham, Francis 38 Walter, Canon of St. Paul's ... 119 Walton 92 Walworth 187 Wandesford, John 5 234 INDEX. Wanley, Humphrey Ward, — Lieut. ... Ward's Field Waring, Thomas Warren, Earl, and of Surrey Samuel Warton, Thomas Warwick Street, Golden Square Washington, George ... i Wast, Roger ... Waterloo, The Battle of ... Watling Street Watson, Caroline Weever, John Welch, Mr. Justice Welderen, Count de Welford, Capt. Wells Street Wengham, Henry de. Bishop London ... Wesket, John Wesley, Rev. Charles Rev. John 10, 24 86 80 65 84, 86 3 208 63 45 39, 197 176155167 24 131 74 138 80 III of West, Rev. 174 71 25, 139-141 138-141, 210 ... 139 Benjamin, P.R.A. 26, 29, 105, 136, 142, 200 West Ham Churchyard ... " London Theatre, The" Middlesex Waterworks Westbourne Street ... Westminster Abbey Bridge ... HaU Wheatley, Francis, R.A. Whitbread, Samuel... 209 184 77 84 167 135-136 155 69 25 90 White, John ... Conduit Club House HaU Field House Field Whitechapel ... Whitefield, Rev. George Wigmore, — , a pugilist Street ... Willan, Thomas William III.... IV. 84. 91, Williams & Co. Gilly ... Wilkie, David WUkins, WiUiam, R.A. Wilks, Rev. Matthew Willis, Thomas Willoughby, Lord ... WiUow Tree Field ... WUls, Rev. James ... WUmot, John Eardley Lord Chief Justice Wilson, Richard, R.A. Wimpole, Cambridgeshire... ¦ Street ... Windmill Street Windsor . . Winslow Winstanley, Messrs. Wither, George Woburn Place WoodviUe, Dr. Woolaston, Mary WooUett, Elizabeth. WiUiam Woolley, — , a stable-keeper PAGE 50, 51, 52, 60 122 52 51. 52 167 I38-I4I 211 80 51, 52 160 126, 203 127 74 103 179 139 125 57 56 197 24 198 197, 199 106106 90 167188170124 208202 150135135III no. Wooton, Charles Henry, Lord Wright, Robert Wyatt, Capt the sculptor Wycherley, William Wynn-EUis, — Yates, Edward York, The Duke of... INDEX. PAGE 55 York Gate 38 Place 80 Square 29 146 204 ... 206 80, 137 "Yorkshire Stingo, The " Young, CM. Ypres, William de ... Zoological Gardens, The Society, The ... 235 PAGE 105106 53 46, 60 185 173 88-8g YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 08867 3992