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m T/SfSlaimp.kKJ — «... tmW? im affinal

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' '/ give thef&jMioM:
for. the founding of a College in-thfe Colony?

1 - Y^H-WJMlIVIE]iSS2W°

Purchased from
Henry R. Wagner, Yale '84
1916

I MEXICO.

BY REAU CAMPBELL
AUTHOR OF "AROUND THE CORNER TO CUBA;" "WINTER CITIES IN A SUMMER
LAND;" "RAMBLES FOR SUMMER DAYS;" "54;" "THE CORNER OF THE CON
TINENT;" " VI AND JACK ; " "HOOK AND I;" "CUBA IN EASY LESSONS ; "
"PALM LEAVES OF FLORIDA: A TRIP FROM PASSADUMKEAG TO
OKEECHOBEE;" "STATEROOM 33: A TALE OF TWO KEYS;'-'
"SISTERS OR SWEETHEARTS;" "RIDES AND RAMBLES
ON STATEN ISLAND;" AND EDITOR OF THE
"POINTER;" ETC., ETC, ETC.

iSgo t
C. G. CRAWFORD,
Nbw York,

NEW YORK :
phfss of c. g. Crawford
g & 61 Park Place

1 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1890, In the office of the Librarian of Congress,
%% Washington,]

JHexig©.
THE EGYPT OF THE NEW WORLD.

^LDER than Egypt " is the oft-quoted simile, and as some ancient and
undecipherable hieroglyphic-graven image is unearthed, it adds to the
indecision as to whether Egypt is older than Mexico or Mexico older
than Egypt as a land of the earlier civilization. The ancient history of
Mexico is prolific of legend and romance, and its reading as fascinating
as that of her elder sister (if, indeed, Egypt is the elder), and when it
goes back to the Aztecs and the Toltecs and beyond, the stories are as similar as are
the pyramids, the temples and the idols, and the looking upon some city of low flat-
roofed houses spread upon a plain whose trees are feathery palms recalls descrip
tions of the land of Pharaohs.
It is not possible here to give an idea, even in the abstract, of the legendary lore
or historical fact, but who has read it will find his travels here doubly delightful, and
as he compares this Egypt with the other, find the question grow upon him, was this
first or that, as a civilized nation ? The evidences are here of ages upon ages, cut in
imperishable stone, although there lacks some links of literature to couple the more
ancient people with those of whom there is record. This makes the attraction
greater that there is a mystery of origin and the love of it, and the student finds
thus much more than equable climate and scenic splendor to bring him to the land
of the Montezumas.
The American who travels has been a hunter after the antique as well as warm
weather in winter, and when he could combine the two his journey was altogether a
pleasure trip ; he found them both in a mild way on the peninsula of Florida, but the
old Castle of San Marco, at St. Augustine, was the most ancient antiquity — in fact was
almost the only one ; the weather was warm enough excepting an occasional
"norther," and the territory of pleasure travel small. It was extended to Cuba, and
at last when the great railways to Mexico were completed and he could find a verit
able Egypt of antiquities, and. an Italy of sunny skies without crossing the seas, he
was content and his numbers increased greatly.
As to latitude, Mexico occupies precisely the same position as Egypt, between the
15th and 30th parallels north, and the Tropic of Cancer passes through both
countries at their centres. But this comparison is in favor of Mexico. Although that
country lies near and partly within the tropics, the high altitude of a greater portion
where the lines of pleasure travel run, is such that a perpetual spring time is the
average of the weather, and while the traveler visits the scenes of the charming read
ings that have been his, he finds a clime that is to his liking, conducive at once to
his health and pleasure, and his travels hence can have but one result— a result that
is apparent and goes without saying.
As is generally known, passports are not required in Mexico. The money of the

6 MEXICO.
country is all that is required and only enough to pay expenses to the capital should be
purchased at the border. This may be done at the ticket offices of the railroads or in the
restaurants. American money always commands a premium, and bank drafts are in
demand. The rate of exchange may not be quoted here, as it is constantly changing,
but it is usually from thirty to forty per cent. The currency most in use is silver, but
bank notes are in circulation among those able to own them. Some of the paper money
is not accepted beyond the limits of the States where issued, but the notes issued
by the Banco Nacional and those of the Bank of London, Mexico and South America
are good anywhere. For every-day use silver is recommended.
The metric system is the legal coinage, but instead of speaking of cents the number
reales are named in giving prices, dos reales, twenty-five cents ; cuatro reales, fifty cents ;
seis reales, seventy-five cents ; and un peso, one dollar. The smallest copper coin is
a tlaco, one and one-half cents, except the centavo, one cent piece ; a cuartilla is three
cents ; a medio, six and one-fourth cents ; a real, twelve and one-half cents ; a peseta,
twenty -five cents ; a loslon, fifty cents ; and a peso is a dollar. The gold coins are
seldom seen, the onza de oro is sixteen dollars ; the media onza, eight dollars ; the
pistola, four dollars ; the escudo de oro, two dollars ; the escudito de oro, one dollar.
Change is made to a nicety, and if the line divides a tlaco it is cut in two with a
hatchet. These, with the money of the country and such clothing as is used in the
United States for spring and autumn wear, a winter tour of all Mexico may be
made. If the journey is extended through the "hot country" on the coast, and
if any stay is to be made, summer clothes will be most comfortable.
There is one thing every tourist feels called upon to take with him or her
to Mexico — the phrase book. It is amusing to watch the Spanish students in every
Pullman car, and yet more amusing to observe the violent struggles with the pro
nunciation and the riotous efforts to make themselves understood. I heard one
lady call her companion's attention to the "jackals at Jimmy -nez " and was deeply
chagrined when a more apt scholar advised her to say the "ha-kals at him-a-nez "
when she referred to the jacals at Jiminez.
I bought a phrase book, too ; the success attending its use was not brilliant. I
got along not so well even as did one fine old American on the train with me.
He thought if he spoke loud the Mexicans could understand him. He yelled all
the way from El Paso to the City of Mexico.
I felt that I would be all right if I could only talk to the people, so I bought a
Spanish phrase book, as did all the other passengers.
I studied diligently the phrase " Como se llama eso!"' so I could ask a man ""What
do you call that ? " or quanto, how much ? But I only got into trouble when I
sprang my only Spanish on a native. If he understood me, he not only told me
what it was called, or what the price was, but gave me a lot of other unintelligible
information that was as so much Greek to me. ,
On my way to Guadaloupe, I noticed the shrines along the way and said to the
conductor of the horse-car : " Como se llama eso ?" I suppose he told me what they
were, and in all human probability when and by whom they were built. He sat
down by me and talked, and I said " Si senor" all the way to Guadaloupe.
As I stood in the doorway of the Iturbide, a man came up and said : " Berne usted
un cerillo." I said : "No comprendo," because I didn't. Then he said : " Donnez-
moi une alumette." Still I replied : "No comprendo." Then he said : "Gimme a
match," and I asked him why he didn't say so before, he might have had a light
long ago.
I was trying to find my way on foot to the Mexican Central Railway station and
got lost. I saw a well-dressed native approaching and commenced to brush up my

IT"  ~

$ e aw***1*

8

MEXICO.

Spanish. " Como se Mama eso?" wouldn't do. I must try something else, and when
he came up, I said : " Estacion  , ferro carril  , Central Mexicano, Central  ,
He said : "What station do you want to find ? "
But really when I learned the money, the numerals and how to put them to
gether, and to read a bill of fare, I found that with my " Quanto?" and " Como se
llama eso?" I could get along very well, especially with the aid of the bell boy at
the hotel, who taught me more than the phrase book about keys, paper, _ ink,
etc., who, by the way, is a jack-of-all-trades about the house ; he thinks bis life is
made of all work. He is chambermaid, bootblack, laundryman, messenger, etc. —
willing and obliging, and a professor of Spanish in a small way.
I have concluded, then, that with this amount of Spanish education, a spring
overcoat, and a light suit of clothes, that the tour of Mexico may be made without
trouble.

Old Cathedral of San Fran Cisco, City or Minoo.

MEXICAN MANNERS AND MANNERISMS.
JS| HAD heard of the courtesy and hospitality of the Spaniard, and remembered
(M once when I had entered a Spanish home of being welcomed and told "this
c^y house is yours," and when I had admired some object, of being informed that
it was mine, and when I came to Mexico I found the descendants of old Spain
had lost no whit of cordiality, and the welcome at place of business or the home was
warm and spontaneous to a degree, and my memories of Mexico are pleasant ones .
The dress of the Mexican is a picturesque one, of which the wide sombrero is the
feature, often richly trimmed in gold or silver lace, with a crest or monogram on the
crown sometimes, this elaborate head-gear often costing fifty to sixty dollars. A
short jacket coming to or a little below the waist is also trimmed in gold and silver ;
the tight-fitting trousers, wide at the sharp pointed shoe, have two to three rows of
gilt buttons. The complete costume always includes a zerape of many colors ; a
zerape is a blanket or shawl worn over the shoulders, thrown in knightly fashion,
with the fringed and tasseled end over the left shoulder. Men of all classes wear the
zerape. Coats are almost unknown, except among the better classes. The principal
and favorite part of a costume is the sombrero. A Mexican may go barefooted, and
wear cotton trousers, but he'll have a thirty-dollar hat if he can get it. The man on
horseback in Mexico is a picturesque figure in gold lace and buttons, and the trap
pings of his horse and saddle are most elaborate. It is to be regretted that this style
is giving place to the more modern American or English dress.
A native paper notes the passage of an ordinance by the City Council of San Luis
Potosi, requiring the inhabitants to wear pants — at least those who are built that way.
It is not to be inferred by the modest tourist that the San Luisian went without that
important part of a costume altogether, but what they did wear could hardly be
called pants.
There are dudes in Mexico. They call a dude ' ' un lagartijo. " He wears the most
gold lace and buttons, the tightest trousers and the widest hat. In other respects he
differs not from the dude of New York, and further space need not be wasted here.
For ladies of high degree, the Spanish mantilla of black or white lace still does a
fascinating duty in place of the hat or bonnet, and the Spanish costume from shoulder
to high-heeled pointed slipper. The middle classes wear a black tapalo, a shawl
which is both wrap and head-gear ; the lower classes and Indian maidens wear in the
same way a scarf of cotton, usually blue or brown ; this is the reboso. Mexican
women are almost without exception of fine form, healthy and robust. There are
thousands of pretty faces, of richest color, long lashes, soft and downy ear-locks,
black as jet, and with long, inky black hair. Under the tapalo or reboso is many a
"Venus ; the corset is unknown, and nature forms to perfection.
Ladies embrace each other at meeting, and kiss on the cheek, presumably saving
the lips for other kisses. Men embrace their friends, and pat each other on the back.
In passing on the street, instead saying "How'dy," they say "Adios— Good-by."
Following the customs of their ancestors, the young people of Mexico have not
that freedom of association as in America. A young lady may not indulge in ' ' steady
company " and the young blood of Mexico may not call on his best girl, as in this
free and enlightened country. He must win her by haciendo el oso — playing the bear.
This does not mean that the young man indulges in any idiosyncrasies of the bear,
when he (the bear) catches a victim. At a certain hour in the day the devoted lover

CANCION.

IntrodneHonTTAfoAra/o.

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wing? vi?

To reach it safe, what needle does she fol • low, When darkness wraps the poor, wee, storm-tossed|
Oh, si en et ai • re ge-mi-ra es ¦ tra - via ' - v itfg Buscando a - On - go y no lo en -eon- In-

w%

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thing?  Whither so ,
ra,  n^ A • don . de f

nest near to ray couch, I'll
le • (ho le pon - drt sit

"call hen Why go so far 0 bright and warm skies to * keep! Safe would she ' be ; no evil should be-
-.«/ • i--doEndundcpue .da la es.ta a • on paj^sar : Tambien ya es-toy , \ en la region per.*
-fr -g- k/r\ -#. «. .#. *. ? ? ? * ? < ?**??<.

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fall

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her, For I'm "an ex.A'.'^iieysad, too sad to "weep; Tp build her weep.
do Ob I Cie • lo tan'. t&htoL.sin po • der vo - lar.f Junto ^d mi '»' /ar.
f tit ¦ tft — < V

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-art

«TMy fatherland is dearTbut I too left it ;
Far am I from the spot where I was born j
Cheerless is life, fierce storms of joy bereft it;
Made me an exile lifelong and forlorn*
Come then lo me, sweet feathered pilgrim stranger i
Oh I let me clasp thee to my loving breast.
And fist thy warbling low, secure from danger,
Unwonted tears bringing relief jmdjrettt. j

3. Deji tambtcn mi patria tdolatrada,
Esa mansion que me mirb nacerf
Mi vida es hoy errantey angustiada,
•f&&&~. ,.!«<¦****+*• j- *¦>¦
Yya no puedo & mVmansfbn volver.
Ah I vent quertdfaamabU peregrwa}
Ml corazon al tuya estreckartt
¦fDlgr 'iT"i- ' ' -ttr*- "•'*?*¦ '^> 44
Oire tu canto ttcrna golondrtna , m
J?ecardarl_mi patria, y luegoJIorar£

12 MEXICO.
comes under the lady's window, and when she comes to the casement he may stand
and look at her, exchange glances, smiles and nods, go away and come back again
to-morrow and do it all over again. If he is faithful and keeps this up for two or
three years, he may finally be allowed to call and see her in the presence of another
member of the family. If all goes smoothly they "marry and live happy to the end
of their days," as in the fairy story.
Smoking is permitted almost everywhere — in the restaurant and hotels ; at the
theatre and on the cars (except Pullmans) ; some ladies indulge, but the custom is go
ing out — though it is always the polite thing to offer your cigarette case — this reminds
me of matches. Mexico matches light at both ends, and if a native asks for a light, he
will always return the unused end with an intricate wave of the hand in thanks.
Politeness and courtesy are characteristic of Mexico, and it is seen constantly
everywhere ; a Mexican will not enter a door or pass up a staircase ahead of his
companion without an insisting, "Pase, senor," urgently put, till it is seen that o»e
must go first, and then age or rank or guest takes precedence. The salutations on
the street, in the paseo or the alameda " buenos dias," " buenas noches" and of "adios,"
are continuous and unending, and meeting friends embrace and cordially salute
with " Mi amigo, mi amigo."
They are a music-loving people, whose souls are moved by a concord of sweet
sounds, and if the love of music is the test, few Mexicans are fit for treason,
stratagems and spoils. 'Nojacal is too humble but what its adobe walls (if they have
ears) listen to the tinkle of the guitar, and no village so small but its band of native
musicians will play in the little alameda in the evenings. In the larger towns and
great cities there is music in some plaza or park every day by the military bands —
an example set by the Government in giving the people music, that might be emulated
by the United States greatly to its credit.
There be fiddlers in Mexico and some violinists. The fiddlers sometimes come
under the car window of a passing train, and in hopes of a tlaco thrown, give samples
of native music " as she is played." There are some who carp at these crude musi
cians, but they are those who do not appreciate fiddling as an art or the difficulties
thereof. Themistocles said he " could not fiddle, but he could make a small town a
great city," proving that the attainment of proficiency in fiddling is attended by
hard work and the results not to be sneezed at. When the weird sounds come into
your window let the tlacos go, for whatever work the player may not have done, he
has learned the fiddle.
There is music everywhere, there's music in the air, a music peculiar to the
country and the people, a music of song, of stringed and wind instruments that plays
at morning, noon and night. There are songs of praise and songs of mirth, and love
songs ; and it may be there are topical songs, and perhaps a Mexican Francis "Wilson,
or De Woolf Hopper ; but the gags are gags of Spanish wit that fall but flatly on
the American ear.
There are songs of home ; the people have their " Home, sweet home " in the
notes of La Golondrina ; sinco music, heavenly maid, was young, she hath not ceased
to soothe the heart of savage and civilized man, and her songs of home have been
sweetest and dearest to his ear. That song of "Home, sweet home" is one that
touches the American heart as La Golondrina melts the Mexican and brings memories
of his, whether 'twas of adobe or of stone. Whether the soft melodies of La Golon
drina are picked from the strings of a guitar, or seiiorita sweetly sings the touching
notes, or organized orchestra fills the ambient air with its tuneful tones, all there is
of sentiment, even in the stoutest, sternest heart, wells up in tenderness when La
Golondrina's music greets the ear, and brighter, glistening eyes and quicker heart
throbs tell that the melody strikes the soul.

BULL-FIGHTING IN MEXICO.
The history of bull-fighting in Mexico is but another chapter added to that of
Spain, simply changing the names of the stars of the profession. The people of
Mexico inherit the bloody fascination of the sport, and what has been written of the
ex.citing funcions in the plaza de toros of Spain will describe as well the fights in the
arenas of Puebla, Toluca, Tlalnepantla, the City of Mexico or any other of the
republic. *
Star matadors from Spain and Cuba have visited Mexico, notably Mazzantini two
years ago and others at different times, but they have not dimmed the glory of the
home constellation, for Mexico believes in patronizing home industry when it comes
to bull-fighting, and Mazzantini's reception was not cordial nor his engagement a
prosperous one, so the field is left to the home toreadors.
There are famous names on the roll of tauromachy of Mexico, such names as
Corona, Hernandez, Gonzalez, Gavino and a host of others, but none have reached
that pinnacle attained by the idol of the day, the great and only Ponciano Diaz — a
man commanding the admiration of the entire people, a man of whom a native paper
says : " Should some day a man be required to fill the archiepiscopal see at Mexico
and the bull-fight going people be called to elect a man for the place, Ponciano
would be the man.
" Should a presidential election be left to the will of the masses enthusiastically
patronizing the popular sport, Ponciano would be the president.
" Should it ever come to the point of abolishing the republican system of gov
ernment in Mexico and create a monarchy instead, we would see thousands of
the young matador's admirers propose the name of PoNCiiNO the First for the
Mexican throne."
i That's the kind of a man Ponciano Diaz is.
It does not follow that the bull-fighter is a "tough." Mazzantini was a grad
uate of a college at Borne and an A. M., and Ponciano Diaz a modest, well-appearing
man of intelligence and good breeding, brave but not a bully, correct but not fop
pish, and altogether not spoiled by his professional successes.
Ponciano Diaz Gonzalez was born at the Hacienda de Atenco November 19,
1858 ; his father, now dead, was Don Guadaloupe Diaz Gonzalez, and his mother
Dona Maria de Jesus Salinas, whom Ponciano loves and reverences to an idolatry
which is given as a reason for his never having married. ®
Ponciano does not remember when he first faced a bull. He tells, as a very
dim recollection, that when he scarcely could walk his father, who was a perfect
charro (sport), would take him to the weekly bull-fights held in the Hacienda de
Atenco, where he was employed, and would hold up his little son and use him as a

14 MEXICO.
cloak to goad the beast. This early apprenticeship — perhaps rather too premature
and rough — made Ponciano so familiar with the bulls, that he took his first lessons in
bull-fighting on the same grounds of the hacienda with the other boys living near
by. Scarcely a youth, he was an inveterate toreador, and under the superintendence
of, and in company with, the Hernandez, he soon put on for the first time the red coat
and knee-breeches of the professional bull-fighter.
In 1878 he was first seen in a public bull ring at Tlalnepantla with the Her
nandez troupe, and was much admired and applauded for his bravery and skill,
which seemed extraordinary for so young a man.
From Tlalnepantla he went to Puebla under the management of the never-to-be-
forgotten Bernardo Gavino, who was always to him a devoted friend and an assiduous
teacher. "After working six months with the old Spanish champion, alternating with
him as a first espada, he was compelled to accept the direction of the troupe at
Puebla. Thus he inaugurated his career as a chief bull-fighter on Easter Sunday,
April 13, 1879. On this occasion he obtained an ovation which he will scarcely for
get while his life may last.
Although he received several blows during his perilous career, Ponciano was
skillful and fortunate enough to get wounded but once, though seriously, in the
bull-ring at Durango while performing the difficult feat of thrusting banderillas
(darts) while on horseback, a most daring attempt in which he has no peer through
out Mexico. But in spite of the seriousness of his wound he was able to appear in
public in a fortnight.
Ponciano is a semi-god to the masses ; he is the impersonation of all that is
great to the people.
Do you doubt ?
Then you have not seen a delirious mob unhitch the mules from their hero's
carriage the day he went to see the first bull-fight by Mazzantini at Puebla, and
hundreds of them haul the coach as a triumphal chariot through the streets, until
they reached the hotel with their idol, shouting as they ran.
Then you have not witnessed the ovations he receives wherever he goes, and on
the street the young and old, boys and girls and little children, point out — There
goes Ponciano 1
If a man can reach the pinnacle of popularity, Ponciano is that man.
It is with the masses that the taste for the sport seems to be ineffaceable ; the
upper ten as a class do not, as a rule, frequent the bull-ring, though there are many
and very brilliant exceptions, and I have seen the most elegant carriage on the Paseo
whose occupants were little children dressed in the full costume of the toreador.
Is it, then, any wonder the custom prevails, when the children are taught to admire
it ? An attempt was made a few years ago to legislate against bull-fighting, and all
performances were interdicted within the Federal District. Now there are four rings
within the city limits, and no well-regulated town in the republic is without its
Plaza de Toros.
Do Americans attend the bull-fights ? Most all of them — once. Once is gen
erally an ample sufficiency and there have been those to leave before the perform
ance was over. I have found a sameness of opinion among those I have questioned
on the subject, and those who have made any excuse for it would have been better
satisfied to witness a combat of human skill and brute force if the helpless and
blindfolded horses could be left out.
If I have devoted much space to the subject it has been for two reasons, more
than others. All tourists, naturally uninformed curious to know, ask many ques
tions, and the guide books with one accord evade the question ; hence the history is
written here, and as to practical information it may be briefly imparted.

<©** i

PONCIANO DIAZ.

16

MEXICO.

The Plaza de Toros is in shape very much like the cyclorama buildings of
America, only much larger ; inside is a monster amphitheatre seating thousands of
people. Encircling the arena is a high fence or barrier with a foot-rail about eighteen
inches from the ground, on the inside, on which the performers step and leap over
the fence when too closely pursued by the bull, landing in an open space between
the audience and the ring.
The opening of the performance is brilliant and exciting, the audiences are nearly
always large, sometimes numbering fifteen to twenty thousand, all eager for the fray.
Gray colors are everywhere, bands are playing the liveliest airs, and all is excitement.
The feeling of an American under the circumstances is one of amazement and anxious
expectation. There is a grand flourish of trumpets, a gaily caparisoned horseman
dashes in, gallops to the President's box, a key is thrown to him, it is the key of the
door leading to the pens where the animals are kept ; the horseman catches the key,
woe be to him if he don't, and gallops back to the entrance and disappears ; if the
key is not caught the man is hissed out of the ring. Another flourish of trumpets
anci lmiH l"i-"as fr«ni twentv thousand throats an n on rw tl1" ("""inc <n ti"- <•< n- any.
It is, indeed, a brilliant spectacle, the matadores and banderilleros on foot andiptca-
dores on horseback, all clad in the gayest, gaudiest costumes, in all colors and gold
embroideries, they march to the President's
box : the President is a municipal or State
officer, and has full direction of the pro
ceedings. He is saluted by the company
and the fight is ready to commence.
Now the wildest excitement prevails,
and the scene is a perfect picture of pande
monium ; all eyes are turned toward the low
strong dqprs under the band stand ; they
are thrown open, and from a darkened pen
the bull bounds into the ring. As he passes
under the rail a steel barb, with ribbons
attached, showing the breeder's colors, is
fastened in his shoulder. He gallops to the
middle of the ring, stops and looks about
with fear and astonishment. He is a grand-looking beast. Surprise and fear give way
to rage, he paws the earth and snorts in his frenzy, and discovering the red cloak of
the espada starts towards him on the run. _
The man goes over the fence, but not too
quickly, for he has hardly disappeared be
fore the bull's horns are thrust through the
boards. ^The animal turns and spies a
horse, and woe be unto the horse, his day
has come ; the picador with his lance is
totally unable to keep the bull from gor
ing the horse, and it is killed on the
spot. The horses are not valuable ones,
being old veterans retired from service,
feasted and fattened to friskyness for
this occasion, are blindfolded and ridden
in to certain death. Another man is
chased out of the ring and another horse
severely wounded ; a signal from the President and a bugle call directs the horses
to be removed.

THE COMING OF THE COMPANY.

THE FALL OF THE PICADOR.

THE HISTORY OF BULL-FIGHTING.

17

BANDEBILLEBO CALLING THE BULL.

Now comes the really interesting feature of the performance, the thrusting of
the banderilias. The bull is alone with his tormentors, it is a contest between
skill and brute strength. A banderilla is a
wire about two feet and a half long, on

the end is a very sharp barbed point, the
wire is covered its entire length with
colored paper ribbons. The banderillero
is the man who places them in the bull's
shoulders, he must stand in front of the ani
mal, without flag or cloak, must stand still
and wait the attack. The bull, maddened
at his audacity, starts at him at full speed,
the man steps out of hft way gracefully,
and skillfully thrusts the banderilias in the
bull's shoulders as he passes by (they
never speak as they pass by), as soon as the
animal can check his headlong speed he turns, now furious with rage, he turns,
only to find another banderillero with t-n o more banderilias. These and two more
are thrust into his shoulders, all hanging
there. Bellowing now, he is wild.
Another signal from the President in
structs that the bull has had enough and
must be killed — this is where the matador,
the primer espada, distinguishes himself,
his skillful killing of the bull by a single I
thrust of the sword is what determines the
brilliancy of the star. The matador must
face the bull, sword in hand, and await
the attack, it is assassination to strike j
while he is at rest and calls for hisses and
missiles from audience. The blood-red
cloth or muleta is flaunted in front of the bull. The maddened animal closes his
eyes and makes one more dash for life and falls in death, the sword of the
matador is thrust between the shoulders
to the hilt and has pierced the animal's
. heart. Wild bursts of applause fill the air,
I hats, canes, cigars by the bushel are
thrown into the ring by the delighted
spectators, men shout and sing, ladies
wave their handkerchiefs and mantillas,
the matador bows his acknowledgments,
throws the hats and canes back to their
owners, who seem grateful that he should
honor them thus.
The band plays, the gates are opened,
three gaudily decorated mules harnessed
abreast are driven in, a rope is thrown over the dead bull's horns and he is
dragged out.
i The wait between the acts is not more than a minute, the bugle calls, the low
doors open and another bull gallops in, and thus till six are killed at each performance.
The skill and agility of the performers is something wonderful and consists in holding

THE THRUSTING OF BANDEBILLAS.

INCITING THE BULL WITH THE MULETA.

18

MEXICO.

The Thrust of the Swobd.

the red cloak in such a way that the bull rushes for the cloth instead of him who
holds it. The bull shuts his eyes and does not see the man as he quickly steps to one
side and escapes, but often he must save his .
life by flight and a leap over the barrier
around the ring.
The Plaza de Toros is the bull ring ; the
funcion is the performance ; the best seats
are on the shady side, those in the sun being
sold at cheap prices. Seats in the shade $2
to $3 ; boxes from $12 to $20, according to
the company playing.
The star fighter is a matador or espada
—he it is who finally kills the bull with
the sword. The banderillero is the man who
thrusts the banderilias in the animal's
shoulders, and the banderilla is a dart with a barbed point ornamented with colored
ribbons. The little plait of hair or queue
worn on the back of the head by a bull
fighter indicates that he has passed the de
gree of banderillero. If he commits any|
offense against the code of ethics or re
peatedly fails in the act of placing the ban-l
derillas, his queue is cut off in public and I
he is forever disgraced. The picador is the I
man on horseback, but he don't stay there
long after the entrance of the bull ; yet
while he does he goads with a pike or pole j
with a steel point. The capeadores are thel
men who handle the capes or cloaks which
are flaunted in the bull's face to worry.
The muleta is the red cloth used by the espada at the killing, and the cachetero is he
who puts the finishing dagger stroke between the horns ; and when he has done bo
six times (if there are only six bulls) the show is over.

The Cabbying away of the Bull.

THE CITY OF MEXICO.
§N that November day, when, more than three hundred years ago, Hernando
Cortez left Texcoco, climbed the eastern hills beyond the lake, and looked
across the waters on the temple Tenoehitlan, he looked with no less wonder
than the peaceful invaders of to-day who come through the Tajo de Nochis-
tongo, and see from Huehuetoca the towers of the City of Mexico, that are built and
where stood the temples of Tenoehitlan. In 1519 that ancient Aztec city was in the
midst of the plain where Mexico's capital is, and the chief temple stood on the
Cathedral's site.
When Cortez came it was after a more wearisome journey than is the lot of the
more modern visitor. Montezuma met his guest at the causeways and with a
special committee (this was the first Montezuma special) of a hundred thousand
warriors, while the reception of to-day is less imposing, but as warm and welcome,
from something less than a hundred thousand cocheros who, with their green flags
and blue, red flags and white, will welcome the coming man to Mexico at a price
indicated by the colors displayed on their coches; to be explicit and make a wide
stride from romantic history to the practical matters of to-day, the reception com
mittee of Mexico is the same as in the American city — the hackman is the committee.
There is a difference in favor of the Mexican "cabby," in that you do not have to
ask the rate of fare, even if you know how. Each vehicle carries a small tin flag
about four by two inches, which must always be nailed to the mast unless engaged.
These flags indicate the class of vehicle and the tariff. Those with a green
flag make a rate of $1.50 per hour or 75 cents per single passenger for a short
drive within a district ; the blue flag hires for $ 1 by the hour or 50 cents per
passenger ; the red, 75 cents per hour or 25 cents per passenger ; the white flags
are the cheapest, being only 50 cents per hour or whatever the passenger will pay,
and if the red or white flags are selected, it is purely from an economical point
of view, with no pretense to style of rig, and with no particular desire as to when
the destination is to bo reached. If overcharges are made, and Mexican hackmen
are not unlike their American brethren, ask for the number. Numero is the word
to use, and he will usually lapse to tariff rates. If a carriage is wanted for a single
trip, simply call the name of the place ; if by the hour, say "por hora," and the
prices will be given, green flags, "un peso y cuatro reales;" blue, "un peso; " red,
seis reales ;" white, "cuatro reales." After dark, and on feast days and Sundays,
these figures are increased to $2, green ; $1.50, blue ; $1, red ; and 75 cents for white.
It is easy to find one's way about the city, and the fact that all prominent horse-car
lines start from and return to the Plaza Mayor, in front of the Cathedral, makes
confusion impossible.
The street-car system in the City of Mexico is a good one, reaching all railway
stations and nearly every point of interest in and around the city. Fares in the city
un medio (6i cents), to the suburbs un real (12J cents), and dos reales (25 cents), ac
cording to the distanced traveled. These are first-class fares, the tariff and second-
class cars being much cheaper, but are only patronized by the poorer classes. The
second-class cars are painted green and follow a half block behind the yellow first-
class cars. Parties desiring to visit points of interest may hire a special car as one
would a carriage, for the afternoon or all day.
The horse-car driver carries a tin horn, not unlike the campaign horn of the

20 MEXICO.
United States, and which he blows as assiduously, as a note of warning at street
intersections. Conductors sell tickets and a collector gets on the cars at certain
points of the route and takes them up.
The street-ear companies do not confine their operations to the passenger business
solely, they do a freight business as well. Another feature of their business ap
proaches the trade of the undertaker. Each line has it funeral car, black, with a
four-poster pagoda surmounted by a cross, under which is a black catafalque. An
arrangement of this kind, is cheaper than the hearse and carriages. You order a
funeral car to be at the nearest point to the residence, the corpse is put on board and
the mourners follow in the other cars, regular or special, and instead of paying for
carriages you simply pay so much per mourner. But this is a digression from the
tourist topic.
It is not possible to name the schedules here ; suffice to say that cars leave the
Plaza Mayor at short intervals of from fifteen to thirty minutes morning and after
noon and" less frequently in the evening, when the fares are increased.
Nearly all the points of interest in and around the city may be more con
veniently, comfortably and quickly reached by car than carriage.
The hill and church of Guadaloupe is at the end of a most interesting horse-car
excursion. Cars leave the Plaza Mayor half hourly, and after running through the
narrow streets cross the marshes on a broad causeway where there is paved road
lined with trees — used in ancient times and now by processions from the city to
Guadaloupe. Many shrines along the route are still standing, and here the people
stopped to invoke the blessing of this saint or that as the pilgrimage moved on to
the holiest shrine.
There are churches and churches in Mexico, with pictures and pictures and pic
tures, but Guadaloupe is the holiest shrine in Mexico and has the most mysterious
picture — a representation of the Virgin — which, although nearly 400 years old and
appearing on an Indian tilma of the cheapest, commonest sort, and during three
centuries has been exposed to a salty deteriorating air, its colors are bright and fresh
as if painted yesterday ; and in proof of its alleged divine origin the decay of
surrounding pictures is pointed out, while this remains fresh and bright. The legend
says that a pious Indian, Juan Diego by name, was surprised by an apparition of
the Virgin, who commanded him to gather flowers on the barren hill where she
appeared and where the church now stands. To gather flowers in such a place seemed
impossible, but he found them there, gathered them in his tilma and carried them to
the priest with the message that a shrine to the Virgin must be erected on the spot.
The Indian's story was not believed, but when the flowers were emptied from his tilma
there appeared a most perfect picture of the Virgin, in style and color different from
any other, and in such colors that even the artists of to-day have not been able to
fathom their ingredients or the laying on of such material. The church was built as
it stands to-day, and over its altar, in a frame of gold, hangs the tilma with the
mysterious picture. A fund of some millions of dollars has been collected to
provide a crown of gold, but waits the sanction of the powers that be at Borne before
the plan can be carried out. A graphic and learned description of the picture
appears in the New York World of December 16, 1888, in which its mysteries and the
legend are discussed by Mr. T. B. Connery.
The cars arrive at the village about a league from the city, and stop in front of
the church at the foot of the hill where the shrine of Guadaloupe is. Passing
through a little garden or park to the right of the church, one comes to a small
chapel in the entrance of which is a fountain of pure, clear water, which is said to
have gushed forth on the spot where the Virgin stood when she appeared to Juan
Diego. From this spot around the corner of a narrow street, are some stone stairs

BILL AND CHURCH OF GUADALOUPE.

21

leading to the shrine or chapel on the crest of the hill where Juan gathered the
flowers, and is one of the most picturesque spots in all Mexico. On ascending the
stairs, may be seen on the right near the top, what seems to be a ship's mast with
sails all set, done in stone. A legend says that some storm-tossed sailors prayed to
the Virgin of Guadaloupe and vowed that if they were saved from a watery grave
they would carry the mast to the shrine and erect it there as a memorial and thank-
offering — which 'tis said they did carry it from Vera Cruz, incased it in stone, and
erected it where it stands to-day.
The tales and legends of this interesting spot are innumerable and may not be
related here, as there is not space to tell of feasts and fasts, of the millions of money

wc-- 

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t$M
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^Bl *• 01* - '.- r.l, i' id V^M
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I
AT GUADAI.OUPE, NEAR THE ClTY OF MEXICO.
of its cost and the richness of decoration — all this must be read of in books of wider
space, or rather must be seen as one of the objects of a life's travels.
Among the other Suburban points of interest are the gardens and orchards of San
Angel and Tacubaya, a place of summer resort of the native upper crust and sort of
local Monte Carlo. This line of cars goes very near to the Castle of Chapultepec,
but requires a tiresome walk up the hill ; it is best to take a carriage to Chapultepec.
Popotla Tacuba, and Atzcapotzalco are, also, the objects of horse-car tours that
are most interesting. On the line to Tacuba, which was once a causeway, is the
place of "el salto de Alvarado " (the leap of Alvarado), where that warrior made his
famous leap for life. The exact spot, as shown, is in front of the Tivoli del Eliseo.
At the end of the causeway, near the church of San Esteban, is the tree of Noche Triste
(the dismal night), where Cortez sat down- and cried after his defeat.-' The tree is a
giant ahuehuete or cypress, of great age, now inclosed with an iron rail to prevent a
22 MEXICO.
recurrence of further vandalism, as occurred some years ago, by a crank having set
it on fire. There are cranks in Mexico, too.
The floating gardens, chinampas, on theViga canal, are reached by horse-cars
from the Plaza Mayor, near the Cathedral, to Embarcadero, and thence by canoe for
a few hours or for a day. The boats are a sort of Mexican edition of a Venetian
gondola, broad and flat-bottomed with seats underneath a canopy in bright colors ;
the boats are propelled by a pole in the hands of a dusky gondolier. The excursion
is altogether a novel one, particularly on Sundays and feast days, and should not be
overlooked. Unless you are thoroughly Mexican it is best to make a picnic of it
and take your provender along, but there will come alongside a longer and narrower
canoe hewn from the trunk of a single tree. In one end of this quaint craft stands a
swarthy Mexican with a single oar of long handle — in the other a comely woman and
often a pretty girl, who will offer for a tlaco or a cuartilla, the native sandwich, a tor
tilla con carne or a tortilla con dulce. I offer no advice as to this purchase, but the
tortillas of La Viga as I found them were clean and toothsome.
This excursion is the most novel of all. The boatmen meet the horse-cars at the
terminus and bid against each other for patronage ; there is no regular tariff, twenty-
five cents (dos reales) each passenger is sufficient to Santa Anita and return ; the longer
excursions to the lakes and towns beyond, of course, cost more. Santa Anita is a
sort of native Coney Island and is a great resort, but the charm is in the ride
thither, passing under the low-arched bridges, the market boats laden with fruits
and flowers, which must stop at the La Viga gate and pay a duty to the city, levied
on all imports from the country. There are great, long flat-bottomed passenger
packets also propelled by poles going to and from the towns across on the other
shores of Texcoco, Xochimilco and Chalco, crowded with men, women and children
and dogs starting or returning from a voyage of a day and a night.
Any day will do for the La Viga voyage ; but Sunday, or better still, on a feast
day, there will be flowers afloat and ashore, and music, music everywhere, of all sorts
from the tinkle of a guitar to blare of a brass band; gayly dressed men and more
gayly dressed women, singing and dancing on the boats or under the trees of the
Paseo de La Viga which runs along the canal.
The floating gardens, it is said, really were entitled to the name, but now are
only bits of land with little canals instead of walks through the beds and plots.
On the banks of La Viga once lived El Senor Don Juan Corona of most happy
memory, revered for deeds of daring, and loved for his charity ; he was not a sol
dier or a Sunday-school superintendent ; in life Don Juan was a bull-fighter, and
much renowned in his day, but his career is not to be written here.
Ask your gondolier to stop at the hacienda of Don Juan Corona. Enter beneath
a hospitable roof and find a house intensely Mexican, shaded by trees and almost
hidden by climbing vines and flowers. Every room is a museum in itself filled with
relics of every age and time of Mexico's history, curious objects collected from all
over the country, in dozens and scores ; there is a cigar-case once owned by the
patriot priest Hidalgo, also a pistol and sword carried by him ; some pieces from the
table service of the Emperor Maxmilian ; several idols found in the pyramids of
San Juan Teotihuacan ; weapons, feathers and war-dresses used by the Aztecs • one
of the guns with which Maximilian was shot ; the bed used by General Santa Anna
while President of Mexico ; a rifle used by General Miramon in the siege of
Queretaro ; a magnificent collection of chicaras (chocolate cups) painted by the
Indians of the State of Michoacan ; very curious ancient bull-fighter dresses, among
which is the one used by the Spanish matador Bernardo Gavifio when he was killed
in the ring at Texcoco.
^ € The collection of this bric-a-brac was Don Juan's hobby ; but another and more

LA VIGA CANAL.

23

philanthropic pleasure of his was the care of children of the poor of La Viga, and
from his savings he established a school for them, where they were not only taught
but clothed and fed ; he was known as the "father of the destitute."
The school still exists and
will be shown in one of the
rooms of the hacienda. As
you enter, the bright little
beneficiaries of Corona's
bounty rise in salutation.
The school has not the
ample means it had in the
life of its founder, and any
offering made will not only be
acceptable but is a tribute to
the memory of a good man.
The Paseo, or, to be ex
plicit, the Paseo de la Befor-
ma, is the drive of the city.
Carriages are necessary to the
proper seeing of the Paseo
and to save a walk up the
steep hill at Chapultepec. It
is about 2J miles long, reaches
from the city to Chapultepec,
and is a magnificent boule
vard, where the bon ton are
pleased to drive every after
noon from four o'clock till
dark, when the magnificent
procession of fine equipages
files down San Francisco -
street and disperses. The car
riageway is broad and shaded
by great trees, two rows on
each side, between which is
a wide promenade. At regu
lar intervals the Paseo widens
into a glorieta, a circle 400 feet
in diameter, where there are
stone benches. In three of
these circles are to be placed
statues of the nation's he
roes : that of Charles IV.,
said to be the largest bronze
in the world, is at the en
trance, and Columbus and
Guatimotzin farther along ;
Juarez and others are to be

In the Paseo, City of Mexico.

placed in the other glorietas.^ At the farther end of the Paseo rises the hill and castle
of Chapultepec, surrounded by a forest of cypress which is not surpassed for magnifi
cence on this continent. The grand old trees, most of which must date back over
twenty centuries, rise in sombre majesty above those of ordinary growth, like a race

24

MEXICO.

of giants among pigmies, and the dim aisles beneath their lower branches are made
still more beautiful by the almost intangible softness of draperies of gray moss fes
tooned and swaying from limb to limb. Through this wood, shadowy as twilight
even at a midday, the carriage road winds and mounts to the summit. Standing on
the terrace, whence rises the grand old castle, one looks across the Valley of Mexico.
Surely, of all beautiful outlooks in this beautiful world, the most wondrous is this !
With the remembrance strong upon me of scenes in other lands which have been
inspiration and delight,
' with the memory of the
Yosemite in its blended
aspect of mystery and
majesty still foremost in
thought, this heavenly
landscape loses nothing.
Even the glamour which
ever surrounds the past
fades before the reality.
From this beautiful spot
one looks across a valley
fair as a dream of para
dise, with soft green fields
and waving hedges and
avenues of lofty trees out
lining gray country roads
that fade into the azure
distance. A faint line of
pale blue mountains, pur
ple sometimes with deep
shadow, rest like brood
ing and watchful spirits
around the dim horizon ;
and farthest of all, beau
tiful with that sublime
sense of remoteness and
awfulness which belongs
only to them, the solemn
presence of Popocatapetl
and Ixtaccihuatl rises like
radiant clouds against the
serene heavens above.
Everything we had before
known of mountain

Church of San Domingo, City of Mexico.

nery becomes secondary in the imagination compared with these wonderful heights !
The great serenity of the plain, the softly changing greens which cover its entire
extent, and the undulating, exquisite Line of hills, like the frame of some rich jewel
is something unspeakable when contrasted with the grand solitary state of these
twin monarchs who dominate them all. If no more of loveliness than this view can
give were added to one's inner life, the journey to Mexico would be fully requited
Chapultepec was once the favorite park of Montezuma ; later the palace built there
by one of the Viceroys of Spain (Galvey) was used by Maximilian, and is now the
residence of the President, the Mexican White House. The park and hill was the
scene of a conflict between the United States troops and Mexicans in 1847, when the

THE PASEO AND CHAPULTEPEC.

25

hill was carried by assault. Besides the presidential residence, the national Military
Academy is also located here. A pass to the buildings may be had from the Gover
nor of the National Palace in the city.
The views from the wide galleries of the palace are grandly magnificent. On one
side are the volcanoes, on another the fields of Cherubusco and Molino del Bey, and
Irom the front the grand view of the city, lakes and the plain, with towns and villages
everywhere, with the mountains on the other side. In the foreground are the great
cypresses of the park, the rocks and steep hillsides, Moctezuma's Bath, and the old
aqueduct of the city's water supply.
The interior decorations are beautiful and unique to a degree, with Pompeiian
color and decoration in the tiled galleries. A smoking-room has hangings of satin
and plush. A desk
and dresser in an
other is inlaid pearl
and onyx. A ban
quet-hall reached
by a fine stair- way
has a ceiling deco
rated with coats of
arms from 1474 to
1887. A drawing-
room has the walls
hung in the most
delicately tinted sa
tin — has tapestries
and the richest
ebony furniture.
Bedrooms with the
daintiest boudoirs
are furnished in
regal elegance.
The palace is on
the very crest of
the hill, approach
ed by only one
to take by assault.

Chac-Mol, the God of Pike.

winding road, and must have been a formidable place
A subterranean passage leads from the garden to a cave at the
foot of the hill in the park, where there are some rocks with strangely appearing hiero
glyphics which have been ciphered out as the dates and names of Aztec history.
The tree of Montezuma (arbol de Montezuma) is also shown, where that chieftain
wept, as Cortez did under his tree, and also for defeat.
It is a good plan to start to Chapultepec about noon, reaching the Paseo on the
return in time to join the procession and see Mexico's " upper-ten " on wheels.
It is not expected to describe the Cathedral and the churches here, there are 127
of them, and it is a never-ending tale of towers, bells, crosses, images, pictures and
legends from beginning to end, from San Domingo, of Inquisition fame, and San
Hipolito, mentioned with the slaughter of the noche triste, to the Cathedral, which
is a grand aggregation of all styles and designs of church architecture in Mexico, so
that any detail of the story cannot be related here. There are churches everywhere
and more building, so that no directory is needed for their finding. Besides, there
are schools, academies and colleges without number, among which are the Pre
paratory School, San Carlos Academy, the Encarnacion School for young ladies and
the College of La Paz, each worthy of a visit.

26

MEXICO.

The Mint, the National Palace, the National Museum are all places °f interest,
in tne centre of the city, which can be visited in the ^"^™
seum is rich in antiquities of bygone ages, and the relics of fallen and ^* dynas
ties in the country's history which must be older than Egypt, reading from examples
of Zee pLture writing, Wtezuma's shield and the statue of HuUvlopochth, the
god of war, down to Maxmilian's coach of state and his dinner service
In the National Library are over 200,000 volumes, in all languages. Old books
and new. Books over 400 years old. Books on vellum and parchment. Books that

The Bazaar, City of Mexico.
the British Museum has not got, but would like to have. There is an atlas of England
printed in Amsterdam in 1659, with steel plates and in colors that are as bright and
fresh as if just off the press. Another volume bears date of 1472, and another is still
older, printed in two colors with a most perfect register. There is a Spanish and
Mexican dictionary, printed in Mexico in 1571. There is a book of autographs of
notables and soldiers of Cortez. A roll of deerskin shows some original dispatches,
(painted pictures) sent by Moctezuma to his allies, but intercepted by Cortez. There
are original manuscripts and immense volumes with every old English letter done
with a pen. There are rare books of all ages and nations, from a Chinese dictionary
to a copy of " Egypt of the New World " and the Pointbb.
The Monte Piedad is the national "uncle" of the impecunious Mexican ; here
he brings his pledges and borrows what they will bring. The institution was estab
lished to lend money on collateral at a low rate of interest, and is under direct control
of the Government. Unredeemed pledges are exposed for sale at a certain price ; if
not sold within a given time they are marked lower, and after a while still lower,
and thus often some rare bargains in old jewels and heirlooms are obtained.
. The theatres are Principal, Arbeu, National, Alarcon and Hidalgo, which, with Orrin's

PUBLIC. BUILDINGS AND PLAZAS.

27

Circus, form the amusements of the city, excepting always the bull-fights. The
non-Spanish-speaking American will hardly be amused at the theatres, but at the
extremely novel circus cannot fail to be pleased. There are three Plazas de Toros in
the city, where the national sport of bull-fighting is carried on in the highest style
of the art, and with such artists as Ponciano Diaz and " Cuatro Dedos " the perfor
mances are said to rival those of old Spain, and there breathes no Mexican with
soul so dead, who e'er to himself hath said— that Mazzantini was any sort of a bull
fighter alongside of his own Ponciano. Sundays and feast days are the days for the
bull-fights, and the three rings have crowded houses. The sport was formerly inter
dicted in the Federal District, but the will of the people was too strong, and the law
was repealed.
The Alameda and the Zocalo are the places of resort by the people at all times,
where they come for rest and recreation, come to walk under the shade of the trees
or sit among the flowers, and listen to the melodies of their country, listen to music
that is the gift of the Government to its people. On Sundays and feast days, and in
the evenings during the week, military bands play at this park or the other, so there
is music somewhere all the time ; and so it is in every city in Mexico, and very many

Old View of the Capital.

towns and villages have the same pleasant feature of entertainment for the citizens,
and they are appreciative. When these concerts are on, the alamedas or zocalos are
crowded — the rich and poor assemble there, and while they do not mingle they are
alike contented, and seem appreciative for a gift which is not so freely accorded the
people even in this great and enlightened country.
The markets are interesting to every tourist ; the fruits of the tropics are there,
fresh from the gardens and groves of the "hot lands," only a few leagues away. All
the vegetables of this country, and which are grown in summer here, are in the stalls

28 MEXICO.
there in January. Strawberries and green corn, peas and water-melons and every
thing of our summer gardens, grow under Mexico's genial skies all the year round.
And as to flowers — I have seen great bunches of violets in the glass-covered pagoda
under the shadow of the Cathedral, go begging sale at a tlaco; a handful of roses,
worth a dollar each in New York, offered for a medio ; a basket of flowers for a real,
and one two feet high for a half-dollar ; I saw all this the day I read of the fearful
blizzard at home, and wondered at such a climate that could produce them in a
country nearly 8,000 feet above the sea.
The markets of Merced and Volador are just a square or two south of the Palace,
and a little larther on is the canal, with its waters covered with boats and the banks

The Palace, City of Mexico.

with the hucksters. The San Juan and Catarina are on the squares of the same
name, all with more or less interest to the visitor.
In the walks or rides about the City of Mexico or the other large cities, the visitor
may be assured of his safety— the police system is a good one.
The Mexican policeman is costumed with a hooded garment, and as he stands at
the street corner at night looks not unlike the brigand of the stage. In the Citv of
Mexico a policeman stands at each street intersection all over the citv He hL a
lantern which he places in the middle of the street. Whether there is more-protection
m this or not the officer can be found when wanted. And that is more than can h«
said of some American cities. "°
rJ^T* ^^ lU the °^y °.f «6xic° tak/ a Wfk througa the portales near the
Zocola and see the peculiar traffic carried on there. Hundreds of people offer
thousands of second-hand articles for sale. The most varied assortment is on hand
—the goods are spread out on the pavement and customers waited for I took sf™v
for one man ; he had : 1 scythe; 3 electrotypes ; 1 jewelry case ; 1 monkey wrJnch •

MARKETS AND STORES.

29

2 crosses ; 1 set of teeth ; 1 sofa ; 1 bung-starter ; 6 balls twine ; 1 book ; 1 guitar ;
a quart of nails ; 3 tape measures ; 1 hoop skirt and a bouquet.
Speaking of signs, the stores of Mexico all have fancy names, more or less
appropriate. Another sign indicates the stock for sale. Zapateria indicates shoes.
Plateria, silver ware. Bonneteria, millinery. Joyeria, jewelry. Botica, drugs.
Peluqueria, a barber shop. But it is the pulque shop that has the unique sign. One
is called "El triunfo del diablo," the triumph of the devil. Another, "La cola del
diablo rojo, " the tail of the red devil.
An advertiser of furniture and bedding recommends his "El colchon blindardo,"
the ironclad mattress. Instead of the auction store, the red flag indicates the butcher.
There are some fine stores, and shopping in Mexico is a novel experience in every
way for ladies — and they will be treated with every courtesy ; but the American
shopper need not be surprised if the salesman smokes while he waits on her. Don't
put too much faith in the sign " Inglish spoken." I asked a clerk if he spoke
English. He said " A few. " He told the truth.
And last of all where you will go to are the cemeteries ; San Fernando contains
the tombs of some of the Presidents, and its great soldiers, and is also the resting
place of Miramon and Mejio, who were executed with Maxmilian. Another cemetery
near Tacubaya is the Dolores, where there are some fine monuments. The Ameri
cans, English and Spanish have separate burial places.
I have written of the horse-car funeral trains, but I have seen other queer funeral
parties, and sadder ones ; I have seen a man and a woman get into u second-class
car, he with a tiny coffin in his arms, and I have seen two Indians walking solemnly
along the street with a longer coffin on their shoulders, while the mourners, too poor
for even a horse-car fare, followed on foot. These are the exception, the brighter
scenes in Mexico are many, and one never tires of a visit to the ancient city of the
Moctezumas.

Over the Housetops, City of Mexico.

THE HOTELS OF MEXICO,

Spanish Lady.

The traveler can make himself more
perfectly "at home" in a Mexican
hotel than anywhere in the world,
for once assigned to a room you
are left severely alone. On
my first attempt to register,
before he would let me put
my autograph on his book,
the proprietor asked me
if I had seen my room.
As I had just landed
from a three thousand
mile Pullman car jour
ney, I had not seen my
room. There seemed to
be a doubt in his mind
whether the new ar
rivals would like the
rooms ; if not, what's
the use of using up the
register ? If, however,
everything is satisfactory,
you write your name and as
sign yourself a room, by plac
ing the number opposite your
name. That done, the proprietor
I writes your name on a blackboard
on the wall and goes about his busi
ness, if he has any.
Your room has an iron bedstead ; a single

bedstead it is, and it may have springs, but oftener the mattress rests on planks —
what carpenters would call "inch stuff" — but it's clean, and if it is in the "hot
country " will have a snowy white mosquito bar, and the linen is fresh, the bed is
never made up till the guest arrives. Candles are furnished, and towels, but no
soap — and you must buy your own matches. I heard a man say, " Mexico has two
advantages, good climate and good matches." The climate is free, but you must
pay for the matches.
The Iturbide, once the palace of the emperor of that name, is the greatest hotel
of all Mexico. The building is palatial, but the emperor's furniture is not used,
and the emperor is not there ; but he has an able representative in the manager ; he is
not imperious, but for easy-going he out-emperors an emperor. I was at Iturbide two
or three weeks, and I never saw the manager disturbed in the least. He came down
after breakfast, went to his dinner, came back and walked about the office, or patio
till ten o'clock, then turned off the electric light, locked the office and went away.'
But the guests never had any trouble. The hotel was always full, but it was onlv
the new comers who kicked, and they got over it in twenty -four hours, * I was amused

THE HOTELS.

' 31

at a young American who arrived a week after I did. He asked the manager for
"two connecting rooms with bath." Said the manager without a ripple of regret
that he couldn't comply, "I will give you one room on the fourth floor, one on the
second, and you can get the «
bath in the barber shop" —
and the young American took
the rooms without a murmur.
If he had been in his own
country he'd have gone to
another hotel, but in Mexico,
he is helpless. ,
At the Hotel Humboldt
there is less style, but there
is good management, food,
and attendance. There are
English - speaking managers
and clerks, and things move
at a livelier gait. All Ameri
cans will wish the Hotel
Humboldt an abundant suc
cess. The Jardin (pronounced
har-deen) is the swell hostelrie
of the Mexican capital and has
a lovely garden, onto which
all its rooms open, a truly
tropical aspect that is most
charming. All Mexican hotels are on
the "European plan" — order
what you want, and take what
you can get — you can get all __
you want, generally, and if
you like a warm meal you will
not be disappointed anywhere
in Mexico unless there is a
short crop of pepper. It
doesn't take long to get used
to Mexican cooking, and then
you like it. Boston has a
reputation for beans, but the
frijoles (freekolies), the beans
of Mexico, would make a Bos-
tonian deny his town, if that
were possible, at least from a
bean standpoint. There is no
butter in Mexico, that is, but
ter as Americans understand
it ; a pale lubricator is manu
factured, generally from goats' milk, which, with the addition of a little salt, makes
a better substitute than some we get in our own country. Coffee is native to the
country, is pure, and generally well made ; perhaps stronger than the American likes,
but good.

An Indian Girl of Mexico.

32 ' MEXICO.
At Vera Cruz, while I was waiting in the station to find somebody I could talk to,
I was approached by a Mexican of the purest African descent, who accosted me in
my native tongue, inquiring if he could "tote yo grip to de hotel." I was glad to
meet Sam Thompson, of Vera Cruz, formerly of New Orleans. Sam "toted "my
grip to the hotel, and with the assistance of some other American guestsassignedme
a room, and afterward showed me the town. I paid my bill to a Mexican in a red
blanket, and did not see the proprietor or manager while I stayed. The room was
pleasant, the bed comfortable and clean, and I didn't miss the "boss," as Sam called
him, just as if he was still in New Orleans. The story of Sam Thompson, of Vera
Cruz, would make as interesting though not a similar one to that of "Mr. Barnes
of New York."
When I came to Yautepec, I found that I was a stranger in a strange land — not a
soul could speak English. I could say "hotel " in Spanish, and the conductor con
ducted me to "El Gran Central." I went through a court-yard and up a stone stair
way, where an old Indian woman said " Cuarto ?"I replied " Si seiiora, " and was shown
to a cleanly apartment where there were two iron bedsteads with the mattresses rolled
up. The woman brought water and towels. I removed the travel s bains, and went
out to look at the town. On my return I found the bed ready, the whitest and clean
est of beds, where I slept soundly till train time next morning. Then I said
" Quanto?" and the old Indian replied "Seis reales," which was my entire conver
sation at the hotel. The meals at the restaurant were good.
A hotel in Toluca includes a theatre a la Niblo's in the Metropolitan of New York,
also Bussian baths ; and the principal hotel of Morelia also has fine baths. These
hotels have an open court-yard or patio, where there are tropical plants, flowers, and
fountains, a distinctive feature of the Mexican hotel, and a most charming one,
Wide galleries extend all around the patio at. each floor ; the bedroom doors opening
on the gallery and the windows extending to the floor, the ventilation is complete. .
There is a fine hotel at Zacatecas, the Zacatecamo, and at Silao the hotel and
restaurant at the station is far above the average even in this country. At Aguas
Calientes, Guanajuato and Leon there are good hotels. At Guadalajara they are bet
ter than usual ; one kept by a German is particularly attractive, the rooms open on
a wide gallery around the patio which is filled with tropical plants and flowers and
has a playing fountain. If desired, meals will be served on the gallery and daintily
served as in a German garden, and under a bright colored awning if the sun shines
your way.
At San Miguel and San Luis Potosi the hostelries are in good repute — at the latter
the restaurant of Sam Lee & Co. is worthy of more than one visit. As the name indi
cates, the proprietors are from the Celestial Kingdom, but if on reading this item any
cry of " Bats !" is heard, it is entirely without foundation in fact.
At Saltillo, Monterey and Topo Chico Hot Springs, the hotels and restaurants
are very good. Hotel rates are cheap. Except at the largest hotels room may be had
for six to eight reales — 75 cents to one dollar per day, and meals from four to six reafes.
Breakfast is at noon and dinner at six ; coffee is served in the morning for one to two
reales. A hotel laundry is unknown in Mexico ; the bell boy will attend to the business •
he takes your clothes away and brings them back ' ' done up ; " that is all that is
known or can be found out about it. In addition to his duties as bell boy this Poo-
Bah of the upper floors is chambermaid, bootblack, porter and messenger ' for which
extra tips are expected, wherein the resemblance to the American hotel is complete.

THE GOING THERE.

7NTIL these latter days Mexico has seemed as distant in travel as it is ancient
in history, and the going there almost out of the question. Now a matter
of four little days from a central point, say St. Louis, brings the Pullman
palace under the shadow of Montezuma's, and covers a journey replete with
interest from departure to destination, and whose every mile has an attraction for the
observant traveler.
For the tourists from so vast a domaim as these United States it is difficult to
name a starting point ; and for a point near the geographical centre let St. Louis be
designated, where the lines of all the great systems from the North and East converge
to the tracks of the great steel bridge, and pass under the city to the Union Depot.
From all the great cities there comes to St. Louis a service of palace cars, of
Pullmans, of Wagners and of the Mann Boudoir, in all the various brands of
vestibuled buffet, dining, parlor, drawing-room and sleeping cars coming under the
train sheds of the great Union Depot, whence goes again other examples of the same

The Paseo at Moeelia.
magnificent equipment to the border, to the Bio Grande and thence to all the great
cities of Mexico — a continuous service so peifect that without going from under
shelter or putting a foot on the ground a traveler could go from the uttermost city
of this country to the farthest of Mexico, sans umbrella or ulster or even hat, and
might wear slippers and dressing gown if 'twas only a question of being indoors
while he traveled.
2

34

MEXICO.

Then with St. Louis as a starting point the selection of the route is easy ; it will
be the shortest and most direct, and one where every turn of the wheels brings
warmer weather as they roll southward. It will be the one employing this equip
ment where the traveler may make himself at home as he goes. It will be the
Ikon Mountain Botjtb,
which has a train for Mexico that waits the coming of the palace cars from Chicago,
Cincinnati, Washington, Philadelphia, New York, Boston and all the other cities
from whence they run ; and connects with them a Pullman service to Laredo, San

Aqueduct at Morelta.
Antonio and El Paso without change, making only one change of cars from St. Louis
to the City of Mexico and the intervening cities of the Bepublic ; and as to the time
of transit, while it may not be written in detail here, it is always as quick as the
quickest, and the fares are as low as the lowest.
Leaving the Union Depot the Iron Mountain train passes toward the river, and
for miles runs along the high bluffs of the Mississippi. A seat on the left of the
train is the best. From the windows on that side there are some fine views of the
river and passing steamers. That style of steamboat which has made the western
waters famous in romance and history is seen at anchor or under way  the side-
wheel boat or the old sternwheeler — bound up and down the river, perhaps for St.
Paul or New Orleans, or yet it may be Cincinnati or Pittsburg is to be the end of the
voyage.

THE IRON MOUNTAIN ROUTE.

35

After leaving the river, the road enters the mineral range of Missouri, passing
directly through the great iron mining district and in full view of the wonderful Iron
Mountain, from which the line takes its name. It is a mountain in every sense of
the word, and so rich in ores that it is literally a mountain of iron.-
This mineral district extends to a point about a hundred and
twenty-five miles south of St. Louis and then enters a sec
tion as rich in agriculture as this has been ia metals,
a country finely timbered, which continue* to
and past the Arkansas State line, cross
ing it at or near Moark.
It must not be conclud
ed that the country
is one of im- ^^^~
penetrable

swamps and low
lands, uninterest
ing to the traveler,
as many suppose —
why, I don't know.
The very reverse is
the case ; there is
not an hour of the
journey but some
point of interest
comes to view. At
Newport, the
White Biver is
crossed on a fine
iron bridge, the
\ river is navigable,
and often one of
the typical western
steamers is at the
wharf. Newport is
on the northern bor
der of the cotton belt,
J and the little town is a busy
one during the season. Hoxie, just
north of Newport, is the junction and
connection for Memphis.
¦ -Little Bock, the capital of Arkansas, is one of the
finest cities in the southwest, and has a population of nearly
35,000 people. The location of the city on the high bluffs on the south side of the
Arkansas river is a beautiful one. As the train crosses the long bridge, high above
the water, there is a fine view of the city from the windows on the left of the cars.
Passing through a deep cut at the end of the bridge the train stops at the station,
where, by the way, there is an exceUent restaurant. Here the connections from the

CaSton NEAR
Boca del
Monte.

36 MEXICO*-
east via Memphis are made. About forty miles further south is the little station of
Malvern, unimportant in itself, but the junction of a little railway which leads to
the most famous watering place in America, if not in the world, the Hot Springs of
Arkansas, famed the world over for its marvelous cures, and, before the railroad was
built, the object of many a weary journey by stage over a rocky road from Little
, Bock. The great resort is only "twenty-five miles from the main line, and the little
railway from Malvern is first class in every respect, having been changed from nar
row to standard gauge ; and about the time the great Eastman hotel is opened this
winter, through Pullmans will run from St. Louis to Hot Springs.
But with all these attractions, there are others farther on, and the most interest
ing journey is yet ahead.
Texarkana, as its name indicates, is located immediately on the line between the
States of Texas and Arkansas, the city lying in both States. A sign on the passenger
platform where trains stop, shows the boundary. South from Texarkana, the route
is through a heavily timbered country and one rich in agricultural resources, passes
some fine cities, towns and villages ; among the more prominent are Jefferson, at the
head of Cypress Bayou, and before the building of the railways, it was one of the
greatest cotton markets in the country. A good. view^is from the left windows as
the train circles the city.
Marshall is the next town of importance, sixteen miles further on, on the line of
the Texas & Pacific Bailway, over wbich the through cars between St. Louis and
Laredo pass to the junction of
THE INTERNATIONAL AND GREAT NORTHERN RAILROAD
of Texas at Longview, where the route continues a southerly direction, which,
since leaving Texarkana has been more to the westward, passing first through the
timber belt of Eastern Texas — a fine agricultural region with many thriving towns
and cities, among which, mention Overton, Troupe and Palestine — the latter being
the headquarters of the railway company. Here the direct lines for. Houston and
Galveston diverge, and after which the road soon comes to the prairies. At Hearne
it crosses the Texas Central Bailway, at Taylor the Missouri, Ka^as & Texas, and
comes to the capital of the State.
The approach to Austin is through a splendid country, with rolling hills and table
lands between, making an entirely different landscape from any other on the line or
anywhere else. The city is on the left of the track ; on the right is the Colorado river
and the bridge, on which the train is to cross after calling at the beautiful station
near the business portion of the city — a station that would be an honor to a larger
and more metropolitan city. As the train backs out of the station yard and crosses
the river, looking back from the windows on the left, there is a splendid view of the
capital and the capitol.
Leaving the valley of the Colorado, the train climbs a steep grade to get over the
hills that have been seen over against the northern sky ever since passing Bound
Bock. Through some rocky cuts, through ' ' the brush, " comes back again to the
prairies, and rolls down to San Antonio, and all along are glimpses of Mexicanism
in dark-browed people with wide hats, zerapes and rebosos, and at the little towns
the occasional sign of " chili con carne " tells of the hot meal to be had within, and the
tomales vender is in attendance with his wares that are at least worth the shucks they
are done up in.
The view of San Antonio is from the windows on the left of the cars ; the city
is on a level plain, surrounded by vast prairies. San Antonio is a noted winter resort
and besides the mild, equable, healthful climate, has many attractions, and a stop
over ticket may be used to its utmost limit with profit and pleasure. The city is a

THE INTERNA TIONAL & GREAT NORTHERN RAILROAD. 37

Mexican- American one, where the habits and customs of the people partake of both
nations. San Antonio's name has a prominent place in the history of the Mexican
war, and the massacre of the Alamo is a bloody memory with the oldest inhabitant
there, who, in the absence of any bad weather or cold spells to talk about, can refer
to the Alamo and tell of the direful times that were.
The Missions in and near the city are especially to be visited— they are a part of
the oldest of old Mexico that was left on this side of the border. Seeing these, one
has the truest picture of what is on the other side of the Bio Grande. The beautiful
San Pedro springs and park, a resort of the»
people in the suburbs, is another place
to see, and no lovelier spot is in Texas
anywhere. At San Antonio connection :
made with the Southern Pa
cific, and another route
Mexico by way of Spofford
Junction, Eagle Pass and j
the Mexican International
Bailroad, via Torreon,
also running Pullman
cars to the City.
The scenery of the
route west from San
Antonio does not vary
from what has been
passed, but is interesting
withal. As the train nears I
the border the interest in
creases. When the barren
hills across the border come
to view, and to know that I
these are in Mexico, no pass
enger is napping, but all alert .
for a first view — and for miles be
fore Laredo is reached all hands are |
ready for the only change of cars be
tween St. Louis and the City of Mexico.-
Laredo is on the south side of the track A Native Fiesta.
and the view of the city is from the left win
dows. The city is immediately on the banks of the river, and the station, which is
the terminus of the International & Great Northern and Iron Mountain Boutes, and
connection of the Mexican National Bailway, is almost at the entrance of the new iron
bridge which crosses to Nuevo Laredo on the Mexican side. Laredo is a prospering
city of the greatest possibilities commercially, and will become a distributing point
for a rich mining district and a smelting centre for the ores. A large smelter is now
in operation and several others in contemplation. The city is rapidly growing in
population, and the "two Laredos " will, in the near future, become a great city.
It has been noted that the Pullmans of this line are of that pattern known as the
" buffet," so popular with travelers on long journeys ; but it is not supposed that
they take the place altogether of the eating-house, nor could even a Pullman take
the place of the restaurants and eating houses along these lines. Than those on the
line of the Iron Mountain Boute, International and Great Northern Bailroad, and

38

MEXICO.

Texas and Pacific there are no cleaner, better eating-houses in the United States. The
food is good, well cooked, well served, and the luxuries and delicacies of the season
are obtainable. Mention those at Walnut Bidge and Little Bock, Ark., at Texar
kana and Long View, at Fort Worth and those west on the T. & P. — which are as
good as the best, but that dinner-house at Moore, Texas, between San Antonio and
Laredo, where that genial old lady from Tennessee is the presiding genius, is some
thing out of the regular line — where there is a long table with the snowiest linen,
just loaded with good things, prepared by a hand rich in culinary cunning, and of
that flavor which carries one back to the old home days. It is in a vine-covered cot
tage, this banquet hall, where the perfume of the rose and the honeysuckle comes
in at open windows, even in winter. At the door is a cedar bucket with the coldest,
purest water, and an old-fashioned cocoanut dipper that must have come from Ten
nessee, too. Let no traveler to Mexico fail to call on the lady from Tennessee at
Moore, Texas. Another meal station at Buda, where the food is good and well pre
pared, must not be overlooked, for the same reason as given above.

^ u-fTm

P.

lift .iji h^mrK^0

Cathedral at Morelia.

SOUTH OVER THE MEXICAN NATIONAL

'HE Mexican National Bailroad, the shortest line between the principal cities
of the United States and Central and Southern Mexico, was opened for travel
in November of 1888. Crossing the Bio Grande at Laredo, the National
runs almost due south to the City of Mexico. After crossing the bridge
at Laredo, the train comes to a halt at Nuevo Laredo, where the customs officers
look over your wardrobe for any possible dutiable articles. The operation is
quickly and courteously performed, and the train starts out on a grandly interesting
journey. As by all routes, the en
trance to Mexico seems dreary and
disappointing. Here is a wide plain
of coarse grass, or no grass at all ;
farther on some cactus-covered hills ;
and beyond, the curiously shaped
mountains mark their outlines
against the sky. This continues to
the Salado river, which is crossed
just before coming to Boderiguez.
The road follows near the public
highway, and there are some scenes
of primitive Mexican traveling and
freighting on foot and burro back.
The track is in the main up
grade. Leaving the Bio Grande
valley and climbing to tableland
and mountain, there is so much
that is new to Americans that it is
not always easy to say which side
of the car the seat should be on ;
here it may be either ; but at Lam-
. pazos, or just south of there, on
the right may be seen a curiously
shaped mountain, whose top is so
I straight in its lines that it seems
'¦ it might have been leveled by an
.engineer's line. It is the "Table
of the Carthusians '' (La Mesa de los
Cartujanos), where a band of In-
¦ dians of that name once lived.
'. The plain is nearly 1,500 feet above
ithe track, and contains about a
^hundred thousand acres. It is
reached by a narrow path winding
up the precipitous sides of the
cliffs. Strange as- it may seem,
there is abundant wood and water,

Chapultepec and the Tree of Noche Triste.

and would seem a fitting home for the smugglers that frequent the borders of the Free

46 MEXICO.
Zone if they would choose an impregnable fortress. From Lampazos a branch road
will extend to the Hondo coal regions and to the line of the Mexican International
Bailway .
The railway follows the direction and near the old highway, and crosses it from
time to time, passing in their order Bustamente, Villadama, Palo Blanco, Salinas,
and Topo Chico Hot Springs, the scenery growing wilder and more beautiful at every
turn of the track. The waters at Topo Chico are in temperature above the hundred
mark, and the baths are noted for cures of many ills. The legend of Topo Chico is
interesting — no well-regulated hot spring is without its legend — this is how this
one goes : A beautiful princess of the ancient house of Moctezuma was sorely
afflicted even unto death. Herbs and orgies had alike failed for her relief. The em
peror in his palace by Texcoco was in despair for the health of his favorite.
A warrior bold, lately returned from what an American would call a raid, sud
denly remembered him of some springs flowing from the fissures of a rock — -hot
waters, wherein the medicinal qualities were effervescent, or at least in suspension,
and forthwith informed his feathered and painted lord and master.
It was decided that the princess should take the first train— not a railroad train,
but a caravan — even the Mexican National was unthought of then. So on burro
back or in palanquin borne, the princess journeyed to what is now Topo Chico.
There was one result, the only one that could be — the princess was cured, and
returned to her imperial lover as good as new. But she did not leave the place of
her redemption to health without leaving a landmark, as it were. The mountain
top on one side was carved to shaped warrior's saddle (a warrior had found the
spring — the fact that horses, much less saddles, were not known in Mexico at the
time, does not come into the legend, but the Saddle Mountain is there to prove it all).
On the other mountain a mitre is carved, such as a bishop wears, to commemorate a
cure of so royal a personage, and to this day the Saddle Mountain and the Mountain
of the Mitre are monuments to the miraculous cures of the waters of Topo Chico.
This is, perhaps, not the way to relate a legend, but whatever of poetic measure
is lacking is made up in cold facts or, rather, hot facts to correspond with the waters,
which rival the great Hot Springs of Arkansas, and leave all others several degrees
in the shade.
Seriously, Topo Chico Hot Springs are one of the newly discovered wonders,
where hotels and baths are all to be required, located on a main line of railway (the
Mexican National) and only three miles (connected by horse cars) from Monterey, one
of the most interesting cities of Mexico, must become a great resort of the invalid
and the pleasure seeker.
It is only three miles hence to Monterey and the Cm-ro de Silla (mountain of the
saddle) and Cerro de las Miiras (mountain of the mitres) on either side of the city,
with Sierras in the blue distance further southward. The city is seen from the left
windows of the cars — in the midst of a fertile plain where the trees are ever green
and the flowers bloom in a spring time that lasts all the year round.
The city is a mile from the station, reached by horse cars or carriages. There is
everything at Monterey to induce a stop in that charming city — the hotels are good
and there is enough of interest to while away the days in the beautiful gardens old
churches, and in them a thousand things older than history, old forts, old convents.
In the very centre of the city is a magnificent spring whose clear waters furnish
an abundant supply for many thousands of people, and they take advantage of it 
coming to its emptying stream till its shores are lined with bathers and washers of
clothes — who bless the Ojo de Agua for its abundance.
The Plaza Mayor, the Alameda and the other parks are gardens of semi-trotjic
plants and flowers, beautiful and well kept.

MONTEREY.

41

Monterey has a prominent place in the history of the war with the United States,
at Obispado Viejo, the odd-looking structure on the crest of the hill just outside the
city. Gen. Worth carried the hill by storm and made the capture of the city possible
by Gen. Taylor, but not till after hard fighting in a regular pass of Thermopylae on
a narrow stone bridge in the city.

4 _, " I There are many Americans in Mon
terey, and the city is destined to be of
great importance and a great winter resort on
account of its equable climate and the hot
waters of Topo Chico. The horse-car system is un-
"* der a most capable and accommodating management —
the tracts reach almost every point of interest in and around the city, and the
genial manager of the Ferro-Carril Monterey y Cataliua not only furnishes special
cars for parties, but as a most companionable pilot offers his services.
South from Monterey the road runs through the San Juan valley, which grows
narrower and the views grow more interesting and are not surpassed in beauty and
grandeur anywhere in the country. Eight miles from Monterey is the village of
Santa Catarina, not particularly interesting in itself except for its cotton mills ; but,

42 MEXICO.
at this point, a look from the left side of the cars will show high up the mountain a
hole directly through the crest, and thirteen miles further at Garcia are two caves,
not seen from the cars, but are the objects of excursions from Monterey. ^_The valley
of the San Juan has now closed to the narrow, precipitous cliffs of a canon, where
only a shelving roadway is cut from the — in many places — solid rock, the rushing
little river fretting and foaming over the rocks far beneath. After passing through
the canon the valley widens out to more of a tableland, and the mountains are farther
away. The Monterey and Mexican Gulf Bailway is finished for nearly a hundred
miles through a rich country and is rapidly approaching completion from Monterey
to the Gulf of Mexico at Tampico. "
Saltillo was until 1888 the terminus of the northern division, and is to be the
junction of another branch line leading westward to the International at Jaral, a city
of some 10,000 people, the capital of the State of Coahuila, lying near the north side
of the plateau, is over 5,000 feet above sea level and enjoys a delightful climate, and
is an interesting tourist point where stop-over checks may be asked for and used
without regret. There is a good hotel where may be found the wines of Parras.
Sai/tiltjO, at an altitude of 5,300 feet, is built on the slopes of the tableland.
Here are productive orchards, attractive gardens, a clear stream rising in the moun
tains above the city, a mild and genial climate, and air exhilarating as a cup of good
wine. It has an especially fine plaza, fronted by a massive cathedral pile, one tower
of which is unfortunately unfinished. Some of the wood carving and iron lattice
work to be met with here is quaint and artistic. From its healthful situation and
equable climate, Saltillo should be a place much frequented by the tourist. Con
tinuing south, the road ascends the mountains until the summit is reached at Car-
neros, from which point commences the descent into the great plateau of Central
Mexico. Above and all around are the towering mountain masses, below reaches
out the broad expanse of valley framed in by the blue of the Sierra beyond. De
scending into the plain pass successively the haciendas of La Ventura and El Salado.
These are immense properties covering many thousand acres, and containing much
mineral wealth. This is a grazing country, and is roamed over by immense herds
of goats and cattle. The valley is level, but enclosed by mountains on either side,
Vanegas, the next station of importance, a railroad is now under construction to
Cedral and Matehula. At Cedral, thirteen miles distant, are located extensive
silver reduction works. Matehula, fifteen miles beyond, is situated in a productive
agricultural country, and is an extremely attractive place. There is a smelter here
where is extracted the silver from the ores brought from the La Pas mines, which
have produced great quantities of valuable mineral during the last decade.
Thence southward the road runs through a region wildly picturesque and unlike
any other, the road passes through until the line reaches Gomez Farias, where it
passes to a plain and runs 193 miles almost without a curve.
In the midst of this plain, uninteresting in itself, except from the fact that it is
at this writing the dinner station, is Catorce. Looking from the windows on the
left may be seen at the base of the hills some green trees ; a village is there • above
the trees can be discerned a winding path over the mountains, a narrow road over
which no wheel has ever rolled, leading to a city whose streets have never resounded
with the noise of wheels, the city of Catorce, the centre of a rich mining district
discovered by fourteen brigands which gave it the name of Catorce, the Spanish word
for fourteen. The location of the place in the mountains is such that the use of
wheeled vehicles is impossible ; it can only be reached and its traffic carried on bv
the use of burros. _ '
The mining town of Catorce is eight miles from the station. Silver was discov
ered here about 1780, and the district at once took rank among the most important in

SALTILLO TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 43
Mexico. Ore of fabulous richness was found, and the record shows that for more than
thirty years, commencing with 1790, the value of the output amounted to over three
million dollars annually. Here are hundreds of mines and miles of shafting and
tunneling. The drainage tunnel of one mile alone, the San Augustin, extends into
the mountain for more than a mile and a half, and was excavated at a cost of a million
and a half of dollars. For its entire length a tramway has been constructed which
is operated by mule power. Catorce should be one of the very interesting places
in Mexico to the tourist. Here are found the customs of Mexico in their purity,
unaffected by the influence of the stranger. Difficult of access, the town can only be
reached by horseback or on foot. Catorce has seldom been visited by any except
those making business trips. The ride up the mountains into the town is something,
once accomplished, always to be remembered, partly from its element of personal
peril, but more because of the beauty of the landscape encountered at every turn.
Glancing down as you near your journey's end, you catch the gleam of the white
walls of the town of Los Catorce outlined against the green of the mountain side.
Thousands of feet below shimmers the waters of. a mountain stream. The shifting
coloring of the mountains, as light and shade chase each other over their rugged
expanse, the browns and greens of the valley far below, and the hills in the hazy
distance, are "beautiful exceedingly." The Beal de Catorce is built on the side of
a ravine near the top of the range, and has a varying population of from 8,000 to
20,000, as the mines are paying well or poorly. Here are found all varieties of silver
ore, from carbonates to refractory ore, assaying $15,000 to the ton. Catorce has a
fine cathedral, richly decorated, and a pretty plaza, the only level spot in the place.
To use a railroad phrase, it is a combination of a cut and a fill, so that to tumble
into it on one side or out on the other would be extremely disastrous. The streets
are neatly paved, and run up and down hill, many of them at an angle of forty -five
degrees. It is said that the echo of the roll of a carriage-wheel was never heard in
the city, except on one occasion, when a wealthy mine-owner bought a carriage, had
it packed on burros to Catorce, but after he got it there found little space for its
wheels to roll, and the vehicle was abandoned, which is not to be wondered at, when
the difficulty of locomotion is considered. Altogether, this is one of the show places
of Mexico, and will amply justify the difficulties attending a visit.
At Charcas there are many valuable mining properties which are now being
actively worked on account of the impetus given to all classes of business by the
arrival of the locomotive. Charcas is situate among the foot-hills, and is a typical
old mining town. South of Las Charcas is Venado, where are cotton factories of
considerable importance. Montezuma, the next station, is a place of some conse
quence, having a population of several thousand people.
From Catorce the ride is still over what seems an almost endless plain, until the
train reaches Bocas, where there is something to see from both sides of the cars.
On the left a beautiful hacienda looking Like a walled fortress, but outside the walls
some tropical gardens, all lovely with bright flowers. On the right, almost hidden
by the trees, are two white church-like towers. This place was once the property
and favorite resort of Maximilian's, and nearer the track is a manufactory of mescal
and tequila.
After leaving Bocas the road enters the hills again, and some pretty views are
presented, but what most interests the tourist is the approach to that hitherto
unvisited and " unwritten-up " city of San Luis Potosi. The first view is from the
windows on the right, and after passing through some fertile fields and some miles
of gardens with adobe walls inclosing semi-tropic fruits and vegetables, the towers of
the old-time town are in full view 'gainst a low Une of hills to the westward, and
when the train comes to the station, one concludes it is a gala day in town, and the

44 MEXICO.
entire population, resolved to a committee of reception, has come to the station to
meet some distinguished guest. The fact is, the railroad is an innovation at San
Luis, and the curiosity of the dwellers there is not quite satiated as to the prancing
of iron horses, and they come to the station day after day to see about it. The
station is near the centre of the city, in fact, on the edge of the plaza, and the view
of the city from the cars is a good one. But all the lovers of the quaint and curious
will make a stop at San Luis Potosi. It is a city of 80,000 people, and a great busi
ness centre. As souvenirs of the city, buy some of the gold, and silver embroideries
of the natives, done into slippers, cushions, or decorative articles.
This city is one of the most important in the Bepublic, and is destined to be
second only to Mexico in commercial standing. Its situation is in a basin among
the mountains at an altitude which gives it a climate not excelled for evenness of
temperature by that of any of its sister cities ; indeed, the climatic attractions of
San Luis are sounded throughout Mexico. There are several fine public buildings,
notably the Governor's Palace, Palace of Justice, the Cathedral, the churches of Car
men, San Augustin and Merced. The streets are narrow, and as usual, picturesque ;
the plaza is a revelation ; the hotels are much superior to those of most Mexican
cities, and altogether San Luis Potosi is worthy of its enviable reputation. Its busi
ness men are active and progressive. Mining interests have added very materially
to its wealth, and now that it is on the direct line of rail communication with the
outside world, it will, without doubt, attain increased prominence. At San Luis
connections are made with Mexican Central Bailroad for Tampico on the Gulf,
Aguas Calientes and other interior cities.
Leaving San Luis Potosi the road enters the rich agricultural belt of Southern
Mexico. The country becomes more broken and interesting, and as valley after
valley is passed, it is apparent that the soil is here extremely productive. The
population becomes more dense, and the vegetation increases in luxuriance. Villa
Beyesis passed, with the immense hacienda of Jaral which, during the revolution of
1810, furnished a full regiment of cavalry to assist the royalists against the armies
of the patriots. The hacienda once controlled 20,000 peons. Before arriving at
San Felipe we cross a deep barranca spanned by a viaduct noticeable for its height
and the engineering skill displayed in its construction. San Felipe is a town of some
6,000 inhabitants, and is situated in the centre of a rich farming country.
Dolores Hidalgo was given its name in honor of the patriot Hidalgo, the
Washington of Mexico, who here sounded the watchword of liberty which fired
the Mexican heart and roused "the whole country to arms to repel the power of
Spain. This is a quaint old town of several thousand inhabitants. It has a fine
plaza and interesting churches, and the traveler is shown many relics of the Cura
Hidalgo which are here preserved in the old house which he occupied.
The approach to San Miguel is from the northeast, the city is picturesquely lo
cated on the south side of the track, and the view from the left side of the cars is
a beautiful one. The city is a mile away, but is spread out on the side of a great
hill, so that it cannot be hid. San Miguel is another of the places where a stop must
be made, and some pleasant days may be spent wandering about the quaint old
streets, through the old churches, and enjoying the wonderful baths, whose waters
come from the hill-side, and run directly into the baths pure and wholesome.
San Miguel db Allende takes its name as being the "birth place of the
patriot Miguel de Allende. In many respects this is a place of more than ordi
nary interest. Its baths are delightful ; its gothic cathedral, unique in Mexico
extremely picturesque. Situated as it is on the hills above the valley of the
Laja, at the foot of the cerro of Moctezuma, the view to be obtained of mountain
and valley is very pleasing. There are many fine churches. The chapel of the Casa

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE TO SAN JUAN.

45

de Loreto, attached to the oratorio of San Felipe Neri, is a poem in interior decora
tion. San Miguel has a population of 20,000.
After San Miguel the road comes to the Canon de la Laja. The best view is from
the windows of the cars, the waters of a little river sparkling under the trees hun
dreds of feet below the track. Across the canon the hills rise up high, shutting off
even an early afternoon sun ; and just at a turn of the canon, on a jutting point of
the _ mountain, is a cross that stands out ^  ^•srf.wn ,.„
against the sky, as if it was painted there.
Down in the valley, here and there, are «" "¦"
clusters of adobe houses, with \
quaint little churches, making the i
queerest little villages imaginable ; ""- ,j
some of them are very near
the track on the right side, so
close that the flying tourist
has glimpses of Mexican back
yard life. The houses are
almost hidden from view by
trees and vines, among which .
are some oranges, lemons, and
bananas. There are some
wonderful views all through
the canon, making it a most
interesting portion of the
journey. After leaving the
canon the route enters a semi-
tropical region, and if the
train would stop long enough,
a walk through the purely
Mexican town of San Juan de
las Vegas would be amply re
paid. The streets are hedged
with giant cacti, fifteen and
twenty feet high ; behind there
are the adobe houses of the
inhabitants, almost hidden by
a luxuriant foliage of banana
leaves and vines. There are
forests of orange and lemon
trees and some coffee trees.
The people are purely Mexi
can, with not even a half-bred
Spaniard exception. I left the station, and passing the ruins of an old church,
crossed an old bridge over a running stream where some women were washing
clothes, and walked through the narrow cactus-hegded streets to the plaza of one of
the most interesting towns of all my travels. The people and their dogs came out
and looked at me, watohed while we were in sight, and for all the work or business
they seemed to have, may be standing there yet. An old church in the plaza, with
its burning lights and queer pictures, was a feature of the day's jaunt. Some women
were kneeling at a cross here and there, some in the church, and some came to the
well near the church, filled some earthen jars with water and walked away, all the
while watching us curiously. On my way back I went into an orange grove and

Entrance to the Palace.
City of Mexico.

46 MEXICO.

I

plucked the delicious fruit from the low-hanging boughs, then got on the cars again,
and was wheeled away with the memory of San Juan indelibly fixed in my m/nd.
I say, if the train would stop long enough, take a walk through the towii, and if
there was a hotel I'd say stop, whether the train would wait or not ; but there is no
hotel, and the journey cannot be broken here.
Hence, for a while, the route is through a rich agricultural region to and beyond
Celaya, which city is on the right, and for miles the domes of the churches and the
flat-topped houses may be seen, with a high mountain for a blue background.
Celaya is a city of 18,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable commercial
consequence. Here are many fine old churches, especially Our Lady of Carmen,
which contains some frescoes of note and several paintings well worth seeing. Celaya
is built on a level plain in the valley of the Laja. It is celebrated for its dulces
(sweetmeats), and there are several manufactories of woolen and cotton fabrics. The
baths of Celaya are among the attractions. A tramway extends from the railroad to
the plaza in the centre of the town.
The National crosses the Mexican Central Bailway at Celaya, and having left the
valley of the Laja, crosses a broken country to the valley of the Lerma, the longest
river in Mexico, which the road crosses after passing Salvatierra, where there are
some extensive woolen mills.
Acambaro is a town of 10,000 people, and was formerly of some importance as a
trading station. It is quite well located in the valley of the Lerma in the centre of
an extraordinarily fertile country. Janvier very aptly remarks in his Mexican
Guide, writing of Acambaro : "With its tumble-down, one-storied adobe houses,
its pretty little neglected plaza, where the Mexican eagle sits on a fountain com
placently eating its snake, and with town folks who are content to sun themselves
and be thankful that sunshine is so cheap and so plentiful, the town is very satis
factory just as it is. " There is a small woolen factory located here, the manufacture
of woolens being the principal active industry of the place at present. Acambaro
is distant 178 miles from Mexico. There is an eating-house near the station where
plain but well-cooked food is served. From Acambaro the road follows the valley
of the Lerma for a short distance, then striking oft' it curves in among the mountains
and on to Maravatio.
At Acambaro is the junction of the Western Division of the National Bailway
with the main line. The city lies on the right of the road, on a plain almost hidden
by trees and at the base of a high mountain. If for any reason the train should stop
long enough at Acambaro, a walk up town will repay. Leaving this station, the
route runs more to the southeast, but follows the Lerma valley, often running along
its banks, sometimes near the water, and again high on the cliffs of a canon.
Maravatio is a pretty little city on the right of the track about forty miles from
Acambaro. A look from the windows shows the tower of an old church above the
trees, beyond which are the low-built houses. The country now alternates between -
the finest agricultural lands and grazing plains, with some barren hills intervening ;
and the Canon of the Zopolite through which the road passes presents some of the
finest views of wild scenery. Just before the canon is reached on the left is shown a high
cliff from which Juan Medina, a noted brigand, leaped his horse to the death of both
horse and rider, to escape the latter's capture by the pursuing soldiers. After leaving
the canon the road winds about on the barren hills in such bends and curves that the
track parallels itself two and three times, and looking from either side, that part of the
road passed a quarter of an hour ago, or to be gone over fifteen minutes hence, may
be seen two or three hundred yards away. Along here a seat on the left of the train
is best. Way across the valley is a village down by the river Lerma, almost hidden
by the trees, only the white belfry of the church rising above them. This village is

CELAYA TO TOLUCA.

47

not out of sight for nearly an hour. The seat on this side is best for views of the
canon, and if a careful lookout is kept, the snow-capped crater of the Volcano of
Toluca may be seen, the first glimpse about the hundred and fortieth kilometre post,
and it may be again and again, as the train reaches the top of the grades. Coming
down into the valley of Toluca the view is best from the right side, where it
seems to rise higher and higher above all the hills as the road runs nearer to its base.

On Lake Cuitseo.
Toltjoa is a city of 16,000 inhabitants, and the capital of the State of Mexico,
and has more an appearance of enterprise and thrift than most Mexican cities.
Situated as it is in a wonderfully productive valley, on the border of the tierra
caliente (hot country), the quantity of fruits, vegetables and manufactured articles
displayed in its market is varied and extensive. Its market-house, originally con
structed as an exposition building, is probably the finest in Mexico. Toluca re
joices in a brewery which ships great quantities of a very good quality of beer to the
capital. There is also a flour mill where good flour is ground. The city is domi
nated by an extinct volcano, El Nevada de Toluca. In its immense crater there is a
lake of great depth. This mountain is over 15,000 feet in height, and from its sum
mit a most magnificent view can be had. It is not difficult of ascent. The altitude
of Toluca is 8,600 feet.
The city of Toluca is in the midst of a wide level plain, a table land dotted here
and there with haciendas showing evidence of great prosperity. The view of the city
is from the right side of the cars. Going east from the city the route runs
through the finest agricultural district ; and along the broad highway that was
once a paved road, with massive stone bridges, crosses the Lerma again and

48 MEXICO. i
i
comes to the base of the Sierra Madres, and commences the climb up its steep
sides. Looking back now, see the cities of the plain — Toluca in the distance,
the once "Great City of Lerma," and the home of the brigands, noy a mere
village. Passing the suburbs of the town of Ocoyocac, the road winds up the
mountain side till it is a thousand feet above it — till, looking down on thq red-tiled
roofs, it looks like a toy town of play-houses. The view from the right-hand windows
and the rear platform is grand beyond description, and as the train crawls jklowly up
the steep grades, the panorama spreads out wider and the white-capped volcano
seems to follow in the wake till the view is lost behind the trees. At the foot of the
mountain the river, like a silver ribbon ; beyond the green and fertile valley dotted
with here and there a hacienda or hamlet ; in the far distance the snow-topped moun
tain, and nestling at its foot the white walls and warm, red-tiled roofs of Toluca.
A few more turns and the fair view is shut out, and we still continue skyward. Now,
along the cliffs of another canon, the train approaches the summit ; the station La
Cima is directly on the divide ; the waters flowing east go to the Gulf of Mexico,
and those west to the Pacific Ocean, and the stream that rushes down the west
side of the mountain, alongside of the track, is the river Lerma. The grades on
both sides of the Madres are so great that helper engines are required for the light
est trains.
Salazar, built on a plain near the summit, the train halts for some ten minutes.
The air is found to have become sharp at an altitude of nearly 11,000 feet. Leav
ing Salazar we continue to ascend until we reach La Cima. At La Cima the
descent of the eastern slope begins, and little by little the glorious beauty of the
noble valley of Mexico commences to unfold itself. Through gaps in the moun
tain wall we catch fleeting views in the panorama, until finally it bursts like a vision
of fairyland full upon the sight. The glittering towers and domes of Mexico in the
middle distance ; a little further and to the left the broad expanse of the waters of
the lakes gleaming in the sunlight like burnished silver ; beyond, and overshadow
ing all, raising their snow-crowned heads far above, a coronal of rainbow-tinted
clouds wreathing them about, stand in majestic beauty like guardians watching
mutely over the whole scene, the giants of the valley, Ixtaccihuatl and Popocate
petl. Could they but speak, what a history might they unfold — the building up
of cities and their throwing down ; what opulence of power, what cruelty and crime
and bloodshed ! Baces have come and gone ; majestic monuments raised by the
hand of man have melted into dust and are forgotten. They alone remain immutable,
the hand of time dealing with them but lightly.
Passing down the east side of the backbone of the continent in crooks and turns,
through the tunnel of San Martin, the train rolls rapidly along the side of the Monte
de las Cruces, called so from the innumerable crosses erected over the graves of
highwaymen and their victims ; then crossing a curved bridge over the Dos Bios,
nearly a hundred feet high, comes down into the Hondo Valley. The village with the
church, on the other hill on the right, was the home of a band of robbers for many
years. Just after passing the station there is shown on the left side an immense
meteoric stone, or " the stone that fell from the moon," as the natives call it.
Now the City of Mexico is at hand, and with a few more turns the towers and
domes are in the view. As the train rolls down the Valley of Los Bemedios the
sanctuary is seen on the hill to the left ; Chapultepec on the right, and the towns of
Tacubaya and San Angel. Again on the left the church of San Esteban and the tree
of Noche Triste, and then the Colonia Station in the City of Mexico.

WESTWARD OVER THE NATIONAL
fTOUB of the country west, from the line of the Mexican National Bailroad
over the Western division of that road, is one of the most important to the
pleasure-seeking tourist. It is a good plan to leave the city by an afternoon
train and spend the night at Toluca, and take a west-bound train the next
forejioon. The ride up the east side of the Madre mountains, the disappearing plain
and cities and the hiding from view of the volcanoes as the train enters the canon on
the crest of the mountain, and the coming to view of the valley, city and volcano of
Toluca as it rolls down on the west side, makes an attractive side trip, passing under
the aqueduct that carries the waters to the mills of Jajalpaand along the crest of the
cliffs, hundreds of feet above the village of Ocoyocac, so high that the church towers
and nouses look like toys and the people pigmies.
Leaving the city from Colonia station the train passes under an old aqueduct
through some fertile gardens and starts up the hill ; see Chapultepec on the left and
the tree of Noche Triste and church San Esteban on the right ; on the same side is
the church of Los Bemedios ; then on through that valley and the Hondo and over
the hill to the Lerma and the valley of Toluca, showing some fine views.
The hotels of Toluca are particularly attractive, and a longer stay can be most
pleasantly made ; but from the arrival of the afternoon to the departure of the
express the next morning, the beautiful Little city may be looked over. The
markets will interest ; all the fruits of the tropics are shown in a tempting way under
long roofs supported by heavy pillars painted in Pompeiian colors. The fruits come
from the hot country only a few leagues southward. The most lovely flowers are
grown in the gardens round about, as are all the vegetables of our midsummer
markets. The streets are paved and remarkably clean and well drained, and the alameda is
a most charming little park in the centre of the city. As I have said, the hotels are
fine, good buildings, with patios filled with lovely flowers, plants and fountains,
both having baths attached, and one with a theatre and Bussian and Turkish baths
uffder the same roof. The large brewery of Toluca makes a beer that is famous all
over the country, and is equal to any offered for sale. Horse-cars run from the
station to the plaza, passing a fine statue of the patriot Hidalgo.
Westward, the route lies along the Lerma and through a rich agricultural
country, where there are many beautiful haciendas to be seen from either side of the
cars, and the scenery in the canon of the Zopolite is very fine, and the spot of the
legendary leap of Don Juan Medina, who, pursued by the Rurales, preferred a leap
to death rather than a more ignominious but not less certain death at the hands of
his captors. Then passing the pretty little town of Maravatio the train comes to
Acambaro and leaves the main line, turning directly west.
Acambaro lies on the left of the track. The low adobe houses are almost hidden
by the trees, but the domes of the churches rise above them and stand out against
the dark background of the mountain beyond them. As the train circles the town, the
view is a very pretty one. Still passing through the fertile farming lands the journey
grows more interesting with every mile, interspersing rich haciendas with scenery
wild and weird, and after making a quick turn from between some hills comes sud
denly in view of Lake Cuitseo. Circling round through the marsh at the head of the
lake, where there are some salt works, the train comes up to and runs along the lake

50

MEXICO.

shore. The view is from the right side. It is a fine body of water, but very shallow,
and there are mountain islands rising up from the waters in every direction. One
of i these is inhabited by a tribe of Indians who have no dealings with the outside
world. On a little island of a few acres they have a little world of their own, where
a hardy, healthy band of contented people seem entirely oblivious to all beyond

Village of Ocoyooao, 1,000 Feet below the Trace.
the shores of their lake. The men are strong, sturdy fellows, who go about the lakes
in long canoes, and take, with a pole-net, the little white minnow-like fish on which
they subsist ; dried in the sun, they are ready to be eaten — I mean the fish. The
women are fine specimens, looking as' if they might be warriors if their little island
was attacked, but seem happy in the little thatched huts that are their homes, yet
seeming a very race of Amazons as they watched a canoe load of Americanos land on
their shores and prepare to photograph them, a proceeding they did not quite under
stand and looked upon with distrust. The visit to this island was to me the most
novel of all my adventures. The waters were covered with thousands of water fowl
of all kinds, and there is excellent shooting. With a single rifle shot my companion
killed two pelicans, three gulls and a crane that were feeding in the shallow water
three hundred yards away. I was loth to leave so interesting a spot, but must go on.
Near the station on the lake shore on the right see the columns of steam rising from
the marshes. These are springs of hot water, hot enough to boil an egg hard in a few
moments. '¦ In the thick brush near the track the Indians have made bathing pools

LAKE CUITSEO TO MORELIA.

51

and come here to bathe, and the fame of the cures is great. On the bushes and
sticking in the ground around the pools are hundreds of little crosses (made by two
sticks tied together), left there by grateful patients who have been cured of their ills
by the waters. The ground all about the springs seems to be a mere crust, sounds
hollow, and sinks under the weight of a person walking near the springs. There is a
strong smell of sulphur, and just whether this is only an upper crust of his Satanic
majesty's domain may be surmised.
From Lake Cuitseo to Morelia the route crooks and turns through fertile lands,
passing fine haciendas and pretty villages, crossing valleys where perpetual running
streams keep the fields and gardens green from summer to winter and winter to
summer. When the reaping of one crop is accomplished another is planted, and
large yields of corn, wheat and barley are made.
From the right side of the cars a " saddle" mountain is seen all the way from
Lake Cuitseo. It lies just north of the suburbs of Morelia, and is a landmark
showing the location of that city.
The tops of the towers of the city of Morelia may be seen rising above the low
intervening hills while the train is yet some miles away. The city is on the left of

the track* but a seat on the right is best. The track runs along the river bank for a
mile or two, and there are hundreds of Indian women washing clothes. These with
their children, and the men waiting to let their wives carry the laundry home, make
an interesting scene. . . .
Morelia is one of the most beautiful cities m all Mexico ; one of the loveliest in

52 MEXICO.
the world ; a city of antique interest, hospitable people, superb climate, music,
flowers, and pretty women ; a list of attractions that calls for a stop-over ticket of
the longest limit. In the city is the inevitable plaza; but here it is a thing of beauty,
and to the people a joy forever. The trees almost hide a finely decorated pagoda,
where three times a week in the evening, the Eighth Begiment Band (that was at the
first New Orleans Exposition) discourses sweetest music, and all the people of high
and low degree, come to sit among the flowers or under them, as they hang from
trees or trellises, or to promenade in endless procession around the paved walks,
and drink in the melodies that float upon the perfect summer air. Next to the
plaza stands the grand cathedral, whose sonorous bells ring out the hours that pass
too quickly, and before it is noticed, the evening is gone, the band has played the
danza, and the parade of beauty is over ; but the recollection of the hour of dark
eyes and lashes, of beauties of face and figure, comes back ' when Morelia's
memories do. ,
The Paseo de San Pedro is a stone-paved avenue or walkway, wide and with stone
balustrades and seats, leading to the alameda, where there are more flowers and great
trees, some old churches and the great aqueduct of the city's water supply. On
either side of the Causeway of Guadaloupe are the residences, not imposing in exte
rior, but inclosing patios where flowers, the rarest of the tropics, blooming in all their
richest colors, make them all patios of paradise let down for a time at favored Morelia.
There are not one or two of these, but scores of them, and if I had wondered before
why Mexicans are seen so little abroad, I ceased to wonder when I had seen
Morelia. In the residences of Mexico little pretense is made to outside display, but the
interior is a palace or a paradise of flowers, fountains and singing birds. I remember
one at Morelia that was a perfect bower of flowers, with walls of alcatras, a long, white,
bell-shaped flower, with the sweetest perfume ; against these was what seemed a bank
of coral in great pink bunches which mingled with some others of deep carnation, be
hind which, the broad leaves of a banana plant — this was the filling of the patio, and
there were playing fountains here and there among the flowers.
The Bishop of Michoacan lives at Morelia ; the city is also the capital of the
State of that name, and has a population of 35,000 people.
The ride from the city to the western terminus of Mexican National at Patzcuaro,
is picturesque to a degree. From the left windows you see the Cuincho Waterfall,
where there are also some hot springs v.ith water at a temperature sometimes reach
ing a hundred degrees.
The first view of Lake Patzcuaro is from the right-hand side of the cars, and after
making some curves on the hillside high above the barranca, the train comes down
to the shore of the lake, where there is a hotel near the station.
The city of Patzcuaro is two miles from the station, located high on the hills,
from where is a view of exceeding beauty. Miles of the lake, dotted with its dozens
of islands, and the valley with nearly fifty towns and their white-domed churches,
illustrate a lovely panorama.
Patzcuaro being interpreted means "a place of delight," and was in bygone,
ages a resort of the kings of Tzintzuntzan, who came here on their vacations to rest
from the cares of state — and it seems to me their choice was wise. The beauty of
Patzcuaro is in its quaintness, its narrow, crooked streets with sharp turns and
angles, with here and there a jutting shrine or saintly statue set within a crumbling
wall. At the end of such a street is the hill of Calvario, ending so abruptly that it is
known, also from the stone parapet there, as Los Balcones. From this point may bel
obtained the fine view of the city, lake and valley. The plaza is shaded by trees- the
business houses with heavy columned portales are on the four sides. " At night the

MORELIA TO PATZCUARO.

53

scene is peculiarly picturesque. The women venders of pottery and copper vessels,
vegetables, fish, and fruits from the hot country near by, sit on the ground sur
rounded by their wares, placed in small piles (the tariff being so much per pile in
most Mexican markets) ; little fires are lighted for illuminating purposes only, and
the scene becomes one of exquisite novelty. The Friday fish market is a scene of
great animation.
It will take a day or two to get Patzcuaro pat and then the visit will seem too short.
After this there is the tour of the lake. The steamer Mariano Jiminez leaves the
wharf near the railway station and within a few hiinutes walk of the hotel by the

Island of the Burros, Lake Cuitseo.
lake, every morning, and it may be safely written that there can be no more novel
voyage on any lake of the continent.
Lake Patzcuaro may be called the Chautauqua of Mexico, but in its altitude of
over 7,000 feet spoils the Chautauquan legend as to that American lake being fhe
highest navigable water on the globe, as it has been written. Patzcuaro is high
up in the world, both as to altitude and scenic beauty. The steamer leaves the dock,
sails in and. out among the islands, making landings there and on the mainland,
running about 35 miles before the return trip is started.
The waters are very clear and are full of fish which persistently refuse to bite
at any hook, but are taken in nets at the end of long poles, not unlike a trout net,
only far greater in size. Indians in long narrow canoes with these nets make a
part of a pretty picture as they paddle about dipping the nets deep down in the
The surrounding scenery, the high mountains and rocky cliffs, remind one of the

54

MEXICO.

Hudson and the Catskills, with the novelty of the queer little towns on the islands or
the lake shore.
A place that has been visited by all prominent writers and artists who have come
to this country is Tzintzuntzan. They came before the steamer was built, when
the trip was a hard one on horseback, over the mountains, or perilous by canoe — came
to see the famous picture of " The Entombment," paintedby Titian and presented
to this church by Philip IT. of Spain ; a painting of rare art and of great value, the

Street at San Juan de lab Vegas.
natives having refused an offer of $60,000 for it, and absolutely refusing to allow it to
be removed at any price.
With the captain's permission, one may leave the steamer on the up trip in a
rowboat and go on board on the return, as the water is too shallow to effect a landing
of the steamer.
Tzintzuntzan was once a city of 40,000 people and the capital of a nation but
now a mere village of less than a thousand people, whose little adobe houses can
scarcely be seen across the lake. The landing of a party of tourists is a great day in
town, and the entire population turn out to welcome them and follow them
after the manner of a circus. The old church was once a fine one, now an in
teresting crumbling relic, but apparently good for some centuries to come The fine

THE TITIAN AT 1ZINTZUNTZAN.

55

old padre is an elegant specimen of manhood, over six feet high and weighing
two hundred and fifty ; when he emerges from the arched doorways of his
church, arrayed in his long frock and broad hat of black, the picture is complete.
He is not averse to a bottle of good claret or a good cigar, which, if taken along, may
pave the way to opening the doors beyond which hangs the great Titian. Not to buy an
entrance, I don't mean, but as an offering to the hermit priest who, from his devotion
and exile, deserves some of the good things of life and would appreciate the compli
ment. Have you read of some mysterious picture kept forever behind bolts and bars
in some baronial hall, with orders that it should never, never, never (according to
the novel) see the light of day ? But the hero, by fair means or foul, turns a rusty
key in a rustier lock, unbinds some clinking chains, and the heavy door swings
slowly and reluctantly on creaking hinges, gets there, etc., etc., as 'tis in the novel.
Well, the_ rusty key, the bolts, bars and heavy door must work by the good old
padre's aid to see the famous Titian at Tzintzuntzan. A sight of the picture is worth
all the journey to see it. As I have said, artists and authors have undergone the
fatigue and trouble of a horse and burro ride over the mountains, or braved the dan
gers of shipwreck ; and one, with his wife and their host, experienced a noche triste,
and all but suffered its reality, spent a night in a canoe that was caught in a squall
and driven before wind and wave till dawn came to show them where to steer. They
came safely into port, and with no regret of the voyage in search of a Titian.
After this division of the Mexican National Bailway is done, the very pleasant
tour may be extended to San Juan de las Vegas and San Miguel de Allende on the
main Line north from Acambaro, where the scenery along the line is not surpassed
even by that on the other divisions. The track crosses the Lerma at Acambaro and
passes the city of Salvatierra, of 12,000 people. The fine towers of the parish church
may be seen from the windows on the left side of the car. The city is noted for its
woollen mills and other manufacturing interests.

iwr--.

r-

Candela Peak and Carizal Mountain.

THE MEXICAN INTERNATIONAL RAILWAY.
¦ O matter at what point the traveler comes to the border, it is with a feeling
of curiosity and wonder that he looks across the narrow, sluggish, muddy
stream that forms the boundary of Mexico, and wonders more as to why it
was ever named the Bio Grande. A grand river it is not. Perhaps the
discoverer came upon it on a rainy day during the wet season, and not on such a
day as when I saw it first, when it seemed to hardly have water enough to carry the
mud along.
One does not look at the river, but to the hills beyond — the bleak and barren
hills. They are pointed out when the border is yet a hundred miles away, and can
be seen so far across the prairies of Texas. And yet one does not see Mexico — sees
where Mexico is. Beyond those hills, in rich tablelands, fertile valleys, old-time
cities, and towered churches, is where Mexico is.
At a station called Spofford Junction, on the Southern Pacific Bailway, the rodte
to Mexico, via the Mexican International Bailway, commences. The road leads
southwest, and comes to the Bio Grande at Eagle Pass, and crosses on a fine steel
bridge to Piedras Negras, now called Ciudad de Porfirio Diaz, in honor of the Presi
dent of the Bepublic, the headquarters of the road — a town of the border variety,
with little to interest the tourist for a stop-over. He is content to know that he is
in Mexico, and more content with his Pullman surroundings and buffet attachments,
when the adobe houses and narrow streets are contemplated, although intensely in
teresting even here ; and when there is time the little Mexican town is thronged
with the grinco travelers, peering into doorways of house and church in search of "
something — anything — to see.
The City of Porfirio Diaz has a mixed population of about five thousand people, the
Mexican predominating. At an elevation of nearly a thousand feet above the sea
level, the town is considered particularly healthy, and the establishment of the road's
headquarters has a tendency to improvement of the city.
Mexican customs officers examine baggage at Porfirio Diaz ; they are polite and
courteous. Dutiable articles should be declared on blanks furnished, by the officers.
The International Boute was opened for travel March 1, 1888, with an entire new
equipment, built by the Pullman Company.
The road commences to climb the hills when it leaves the station, and in 24 miles
reaches Nava at an elevation of 1,200 feet. Nava has a population of about a thousand
people. Still on the rising grade, passing Allende (a thousand people), Leona,
Peyotes, Blanco, the town of Sabinas is reached, where there is a branch road to the
coal mines around Felipe and Hondo, which branch is to be extended to the National
Bailway at Lampazos. The supply of bituminous coal in the Hondo regions is inex
haustible, and already they are supplying the railways in Texas and Mexico.
Extensive iron works are to be established at Sabinas, where coal is plentiful, a rich
magnetic ore being found on the line of the International, about 75 miles west, near
Monclova. The Bio Sabinas is crossed here and the climbing commences again, but gently
at first till Monclova is reached at an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet above the sea.
The city has a population of about 5,000 people.
Monclova is a very old city, having been founded some tw6 hundred years ago ;
was named for the then reigning Viceroy, Melchor Portacarrero Lazo de la Vega,

MONCLOVA TO PARRAS.

57

Conde de la Monclova, and has thus long survived the name. Later, Monclova was
the capital when Texas and Coahuila were one State, but is now the capital of neither,
the seat of government having been moved to Saltillo. The region around about is
rich in the precious ores, particularly silver, which is found in large quantities.
Westward forty-five miles are the mines of Cuatro Cienegas, and sixty-five milee
further the mines of Sierra Mojada, which are said to equal in richness and extent
those of Leadville. Large quantities of ore and bullion are brought to the railroad
for shipment to the United States and Europe.
At Monclova one sees the first

sample of an interior mining town
of Mexico ; not a mining town of
itself, but the centre of a mining
district, and the tourist decides at
once that his tour is becoming in
teresting. There are the men with
their zerapes, the women in their
rebosos, with babies swung on their

Teaming in Mexico.

backs in true Indian fashion ; the low
adobe houses, the narrow streets, little
plaza and market-place, and the inevitable
church. Truly Mexico begins to appear
as it has been read about.
Hence almost due south the Inter
national runs to Jaral, reaching an eleva
tion of 3,753 feet. From Jaral a brancn road is projected to run eastward 42 miles to
Saltillo, the capital of the State of Coahuila, and connecting again with the Mexican
National. The country passed through now is extensively Mexican. High hills
seemingly without tree or shrub, with here and there an adobe house, or two or
three of them huddled together as if in attempt to village. Some grazing lands and
farms relieve the utter desolation that would seem about to overcome the land. It
is not all of this kind though, and even with all this the American does not leave
the car window for fear some new scene may be missed.
Now the track takes a westward course and runs along between mountain and
tableland and comes to Paila, where the elevation is 3,898 feet. A branch line will be
built from Paila to Parras, one of the oldest towns in Mexico, having been founded
nearly three hundred years ago. The location of Parras is superb, and it will one day
become a resort for tourists, both for its quaintness and healthful climate. There

58

MEXICO.

are some vineyards near the town, which produce an excellent wine, both whitej
and red, that has found its way to the markets of Saltillo and other more dis
tant cities ; and the fame of the wine of Parras is known to the connoisseur all over
the land. And now that the railroad has brought the vineyards closer to the
markets, the American palate may be tickled with the pure juice of the grape as pro
duced at Parras. The country is eminently suited to grape growing, and with the
improved modes of cultivation the possibilities >re great.
From Paila the route is still west and slightly down-grade till it comes to the
shores of Lake Parras, which is itself 3,600 feet above the sea, a typical Mexican
lake. The road runs around the south shore, and on a level till it reaches Torreon,
where a junction is made with the Mexican Central Bailway, and thence extends
three miles to the City of
Lerdo, where there are
large manufacturing in-
j terests of cotton and wool
en goods, zerapes and re-
bosos. The International
Bailroad runs for its en
tire distance from Porfirio
Diaz to Torreon, in the
State of Coahuila,
through a country of
great possibilities, and
the advent of the railroad
already shows an advance
ment in its development,
and only a few years will
j bring its resources to the
front. The State has a popu
lation of nearly 200,000
(natives), which will now
i be increased largely by
foreign emigration.
[ Pending the building of
j branch lines, there are
stage connections at Al-
H lende for Zaragoza; at
H Sabinas for San Juan de
Sabinas ; at Felipe for
a™, Juarez ; at Barotevan for
Santa Eosa ; at Jaral for
Saltillo ; at Paila for Par
ra ras ; at Homos for Viesca
— and San Pedro.
The connection with
the Mexican Central is in
Union Depot. There are
Pullman cars from San Antonio to the City of Mexico, passing through the cities
named above, going via Zacatecas, Lagos, Leon, Silao (for Guanajuato), Aguas Cali-
entes, Irapuato (for Guadalajara), Celaya, Queretaro, Tula and all points of interest

Chapultepec from the Paseo.

MONTEREY AND MEXICAN GULF RAILWAY. 59
to the tourists, and elsewhere described. Civilization was early in Mexico, but her
progress tardy. For centuries it was manana por la manana. Now things are brisk
er, and railroads building in all directions. The latest is the
Monterey and Mexican Gulf Bailway,
originally chartered to run from Monterey, Mexico, to Tampico on the Gulf ; but
realizing the importance of a standard-gauge connection, the charter was amended,
and a new concession granted by the government, which contemplates an extension
of the line on the northwest, through the states of Coahuila and Chihuahua.
At present one hundred and one miles are in operation from Monterey to Linares,
and it is confidently expected that the gap of sixty-six miles between Venadita, on
the International B. B., and Monterey, will be closed by January 1, 1890, which will
enable tourists to reach that most delightful of charming winter resorts, Monterey,
without change from standard to narrow gauge cars. Near Monterey are the famous
Topo Chico Hot Springs, whose waters are too well known to demand further mention
here. The hotel accommodations at both the springs and city are ample and among
the best in all Mexico.
The country between Monterey and Tampico is the richest, most fertile and
picturesque in the Bepublic. Lovely valleys teeming with luxuriant vegetation
stretch away to the south as far as the eye can reach, flanked on either side by grand
old mountains whose towering heights lose themselves in misty vapor. Charming
little villages, almost hidden with foliage, nestle cosily at the mountain's base, along
which silver streams wend their way to the sea.
Game of every description is to be found here, and sportsmen of venturesome
disposition will find ample opportunity to display their valor in hunting the bear
and mountain' lion.
Corn, wheat, sugar-cane, rice, cotton, vegetables and fruit of every description,
coffee and ixtle grow in luxuriant profusion, and gold, silver, lead and iron are
found in the San Jose and San Carlos districts, in beds whose richness when properly
developed, will place this part of the country in the front rank of the mining
industries. The climate is mild and exhilarating, and tourists and invalids will find
a trip over the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Bailway productive of great interest and
fruitful results.
Back again to Longview, Texas, from that junction the main line of the
Texas and Pacteto Bailway
runs due west through the prairies of northern Texas and through some of her finest
cities and towns. Mineola is the first on the line of timber and grazing lands where
the traveler begins to see Texas, as it has been written about, with its broad grassy
plains, where there are herds of cattle, sheep and horses.
Dallas is a city of 40,000 people and is one of the finest in all the great southwest.
The headquarters and general offices of the Texas and Pacific Bailway are located
here. Dallas is a great railway centre, with lines diverging to all parts of the State.
Fort Worth is another fine Texan town and a junction of a division of the Missouri
Pacific, and other Lines running north and south. The view of the city is from the
right-hand windows. At Fort Worth the first suspicion of the approach to Mexico
is aroused — a colored brother on the station platform offers tomales for sale. Tomales
are a favorite Mexican delicacy in the shape of a bit of meat and corn meal cooked
and done up in a corn shuck.
After Fort Worth, then the typical Texas towns with more or less of the border
type, but many of them outgrowing all that and rapidly approaching the metropol
itan air which soon develops in so rich a country.

60

MEXICO.

It would se&m that these prairies were boundless indeed, but their boundaries
soon come to view now, in the barren hills of the border, and one finds amusement in
discovering the fantastic shapes which their outlines make against the sky. The
high peaks of Sierra Blanca can be seen for a hundred miles as you travel around
it, then the highest hills, far away to the south, are those of Mexico. Now the
adobe houses are seen here and there, and the dwellers, with wide sombreros, zerapes
and rebosos, tell that the " T. & P." train is nearly at its journey's end.
A seat on the left is the best. The hills to the south are coming nearer, and soon
the murky waters of the Bio Grande come to view. Passing through the new and
pretty suburb of East El Paso, with its irrigating canals, look across the river and see
the first tower of the Mexican church at the old town of Paso del Norte, now called
Juarez City, and by this time the train is at the station in El Paso, where all change
cars for Mexico.
El Paso lies on an elevated tableland surrounded by high hills and mountains.
There is a queer make-up in the town of low adobe houses with Mexican portales, the
border frame-house and the truly fine brick and stone buildings of more metropolitan
proportions. Just across a foot bridge, reached by horse-cars, is the the old town of Paso del
Norte, where everybody goes, whether bound for Mexico or California. The glimpse
of Mexican life at Juarez City is a feature of the journey, and the town is a fair sample
of what is to be seen further on. There are good hotels at El Paso, and any stop
over there will be as comfortable as it is pleasant. In this connection it must
be written, that besides all the luxuries on wheels offered by the " T. & P.," those by
the way must not be neglected in mention. The restaurants and eating-houses along
the line are all good, and besides, as a matter of principle in traveling, for their
excellence alone should not be skipped.

Mexican Jacal.

SOUTH OVER THE MEXICAN CENTRAL.
'HE pioneer rail route, from the United States to Mexico, enters that country
at El Paso, crosses the Bio Grande to the old town of Paso del Norte, now
called Ciudad de Juarez, in honor of the Mexican statesman, and commences
the journey to the interior on the rails of the Mexican Central Bailway.
The passers-by at El Paso cannot resist the temptation of a glimpse at old
Mexico, whether they are en route to the interior or to California. They all cross
over the long foot bridge that spans more of sands than river, and take a look at the
adobe houses and the old church in Paso del Norte, now called the City of Juarez,
just as they do a thousand miles farther on. It is but a glimpse here, but whets the
appetite for more and makes the tourist glad he is going.
It has been the custom not to open the Pullman car until the train crosses the
river, and the Mexican customs officers have examined baggage. They are very
courteous, and their duties quickly performed. A splendid meal — better, I am glad
to say, as so much has been untruthfully said in this relation by out-of-date guide
books, than is the average in "The States " — is served in the station restaurant, and
the train is ready to start south.
The first night of the journey is like that of the other lines : dreary and desolate as
to country ; but bright anticipations of new and novel scenes prevent anything like
monotony, and when dawn comes on this, our first morning in the sunlands, we are
spinning through a narrow valley, level as a billiard board — the veritable ' ' high table
land " of the geographies, lying between two close ranges of low mountains, shrub-
covered and crowned with the most entrancing cloud effects one injagines out of
fairyland. The soft white heaps, now tossed above some climbing summit, now
rolled into some happy valley between, are constant joys to every eye that rests upon
them. While we are still looking, entranced at the beauty of changin g form, we get our
first glimpse of a hacienda. At the further end of the plain a group of white buildings,
a wide corral, fenced in with slight boughs and a fringe of most exquisite green
along the margin of a fine line of blue water, make a scene for a painter. Out of
the corral on one side comes an immense herd of cattle, followed by two mounted
cowboys; at the other an equally immense herd of goats, black, brown and white.
A group of Indian women are filling great jars of red pottery at the brookside, and
across the dry watercourses flocks of sheep wander, nibbling the tender blades of
young grassand followed by their shepherds. It is truly a scene of another world than
ours. By-and-by, between a gap in the deep red mountains which wall up the
beautiful narrow valley, one catches a glimpse of a wonderful vista full of deep blue
colors, with another glint of clear water, and far off the more mystical heights of
some new range which distance clothes with abundant majesty. Nothing we ever
saw surpasses the effect of these perfectly level rich lands, hemmed in by the majes
tic beauty of the bills. The novelty never wears away. But the lofty mountains
are not all of this country — there are fertile valleys and broad grazing plains, where
there are thousands of cattle, sheep and horses.
Chihuahua (pronounced Che-wow-wa) is the first place of importance. The mean
ing of the name is " the place where things are made" ; in olden times the city was
called Taraumara, and in later years San Felipe el Beal. An interesting city, worthy
of a day's stop, it lies to the right of the track, and while engines are being changed
there is often time for a drive to the city, a mile distant, to see the mint, the churches,

62

MEXICO.

the old aqueduct, and Hidalgo's monument, erected on the spot of his execution. It
will take a day at least to do the town, a longer visit may be pleasantly made, as
there is a pretty good hotel. *
The Church of San Francisco, erroneously styled the Cathedral, is a fine building
with an imposing interior and two high towers. It was built more than a century

J

Fountain at Chihuahua.
ago at a cost of more than three-quarters of a million dollars, raised by a tax of two
reals on each pound of silver taken from the Santa Eulalia mine. In one of the
towers a broken bell is shown, broken by a shot from a French cannon during the
bombardment of the city. Horse-cars run from the station to the plaza— fare, a
medio, 6i cents ; or one may go quicker in a 'bus or hack, for two reals.
Chihuahua is the capital of the State of the same name, and has a population of
nearly 20,000 ; was founded more than 300 years ago ; so its growth is not of the
mushroom variety.
After leaving the station, look from the windows on the left side to see the smelt
ers of the Santa Eulalia mines ; and a little farther on is the Cerro del Coronel so
called from the execution of a revolutionist colonel at this point The road runs
through a lake region skirting the western border of the Bolson Mapimi and comes
to the valley of Conchos and San Pedro, where there are some fine lands and the
journey grows more interesting. • '
Near Santa Eosalia are some mineral and hot springs, with a local reputation for
their curative qualities. Jiminez is the shipping station for the Parral mining dis
trict, fifty miles west of the road. An eating-house is located here, and a eoodm^l
is to be obtained. 6 u ""»"

CHIHUAHUA TO ZACATECAS.

63

Lerdo is a city of 10,000, located in the midst of a fine cotton region where the
soil and climate are so favorable to the growth that the plants need renewal only
every third or fourth year. The city lies on the right side of the track. Three miles
further is the junction of the Mexican International Bailway at Torreon.
Durango, the capital of the State of that name, is 150 miles west ; reached by
diligence only, but with a railroad in prospect. Durango is a city peculiar to itself
even in Mexico, and worthy of a visit.
Fresnillo is another important mining town, once a great city, now containing
about 20,000 people. The now overflowed and abandoned mines of Proano are near
the road, and may some day, in the near future, be operated again.
The wealth of this country, present and past, is fabulous ; hardly a town but was,
oris, a great mining town, and it is silver, silver everywhere. If the mines have been
abandoned, they are to be worked again or new ones opened in the same district.
Every mile of the journey increases in interest now — one interesting place is left
behind only to look forward to another, and the intervening country presents new
scenes and views continually. The train is making tortuous windings to get over a

A Street in Chihuahua.

high hill, whose top is more than 8,000 feet above the sea, which stands in the way.
The tall tower-like chimneys of a smelter, high up above the track, are seen first on
one side and then on the other, as the road bends in one horseshoe curve after
another. This marks the approach to Zacatecas, one of the greatest cities in all
Mexico. The train comes to a stop ; there is no sign of a city even at the station ;

64

MEXICO.

but when it leaves, take a seat on the left side for the grandest view of the jour
ney. The moment the station is passed there is a full view of a city of 75,000
people, looking for all the world like one of ancient Palestine, lying,- with its
low flat -topped houses and domed churches, a hundred feet below, and spreading up
and down the gulch and hillside,
reaching, with straggling suburbs,
to Guadaloupe, six miles away.
The track winds around on the
side of the mountain, passing di
rectly over some mines and smelt
ers, keeping the city in view for
some minutes. The view from the
rear platform is magnificent, but a

An Old Church at Chihuahua.

seat on the left side is a good one. Up and down the road, between the two towns,
are curiously costumed people ; droves of donkeys laden with silver, carts and cars,
goats and cattle on the hillside, and a hundred things to see not seen anywhere else
in the world. Zacatecas is not out of sight till Guadaloupe comes to view on the
same side, and a long street connects the two, on which there is a horse-car line.
The cars are pulled from Guadaloupe to Zacatecas, but the return trip is made without
their aid. As the train moves along a look ahead will show the town of Guadaloupe,
with its splendid church ; looking back, the city of Zacatecas lies under the shadow
of the Cerro de la Bufa—a.n immense buffalo, cut in stone by sculptor Nature, lying

ZACATECAS TO SAN LUIS POTOSI.

65

on the mountain's crest, keeps guard over the City of Silver. Far beyond Guada
loupe is a lake — Lake Pevernaldillo — with some pottery kilns on the shores.
The country now is more agricultural than mining, and there are some fertile dis
tricts in all the valleys down to Aguas Calientes, which being interpreted, means
' ' hot waters. " The scene here is totally unlike any other in all Mexico. The town is
on a level plane, 6,179 feet above sea level, and is shaded with luxuriant trees along
the roads and streams. The city is on the right. Another eating-house is located
here, and a good one ; but there is so much to interest that there is hardly time to eat.
Walk out to the end of the station platform. There is a picture you never saw be
fore. A swiftly running stream
of hot water crosses the track.
;Look up the shaded road.
I Along that stream is one vast
laundry, where a hundred
washerwomen are on their
knees on the ground,
and every bush and
tree is covered
with the many
colored gar
ments hung
gout to dry.
On the
other side is
| the city.
Horse-
cars are
waiting

Guadalajara.
for their passengers. There are some fine baths near the station, which may be seen
while the train waits. But the tourist must make a stop at Aguas Calientes and at
Zacatecas. Other pages of this book tell of the attractions there.

66 MEXICO.
From Aguas Calientes a division of the Mexican Central Bailroad extends to San
Luis Potosi and to the Gulf of Mexico at Tampico. The City of San Luis is one full
of attractions and of great wealth, situated in the midst of a high and fertile agri
cultural region — in the midst of a plain that is one vast garden of tropical fruits and
vegetables, and it is not a matter of special wonder that there is good living at San
Luis Potosi, and as a result of good markets there are good hotels.
San Luis Potosi is the capital of the state of that name, a state rich in mineral
resources, and as far back as history goes there is mention of the silver mines that
are there, and that of San Pedro is said to have produced the largest piece of gold
ever found in Mexico, which was sent to the King of Spain, who presented the great
clock in the facade of the church.
San Luis is a fine city, with a fine plaza, and alameda. The streets are regularly •
laid out and run at right angles and are kept scrupulously clean, and a city ordinance
requires that house-owners shall paint and renovate their houses at certain intervals.
The climate is delightful, and now that San Luis has become such a railroad centre,
it is regarded as a rival of the City of Mexico itself.
The people of San Luis are a pleasure-loving, hospitable people. The military
band plays in the alameda three times a week, and balls and fetes to which Americans
are invited are of frequent occurrence. The station at San Luis Potosi is located
near the centre of the city, and the tourist may see the city though he may not stop.
Eastward from San Luis Potosi the line of the Mexican Central B. B. has been
extended to the Gulf of Mexico, and the distance to be traveled from the table-lands
of Aguas Calientes and San Luis Potosi is less than three hundred miles to the tierra
caliente of Tampico.
It is necessarily a down grade from San Luis to the Gulf, though there be moun
tains on all sides and seeming to stand in the way of the iron horse, yet he finds a
way to get around them and running along their sides finds many a canon between
whose rocky walls rush noisily the mountain torrents that go on to make the rivers
that flow into the Gulf at Tampico, and as they drop from one cliff or the other
beautiful cascades gleam in the tropic sun.
Tampico is at the mouth of the Rio Tampico, has a population of some 10,000
people and is a port of commercial importance. Here the tourist finds that simon-
pure tropic Mexico that he did not find in the more temperate climes of the table
lands in the interior — there are palm trees and oranges and lemons in the gardens
round about, pineapples and bananas and coffee trees withal — the low white houses
seem whiter in the sun and make a picture somewhat different than in that other
Mexico of the hills.
About three leagues up the coast the Bio Panuco empties into the Gulf of
Mexico — noted in history as the landing place of two celebrated expeditions — Gri-
jalva and the remnant of De Soto's band — the former coming from Cuba and the
latter from the mouth of the Mississippi, where they left the body of their leader.
The Panuco Biver is navigable four or five leagues, and there are small steamers
from Tampico, which, until the completion of the railway, did a business in transpor
tation of freights and passengers to and from the interior, and the voyage was more
novel than pleasant.
The completion of the Mexican Central Bailroad to the port of Tampico will in
augurate a business boom in the old town and will open up a new route for the
tourist — who may travel in through Pullman cars from the United States and change
at Aguas Calientes on the main line, to the cars that run to San Luis Potosi and on
down to the Gulf at Tampico. A full description of the magnificent scenery, so en
tirely different from any other in Mexico, is presented in another part of this book.
Back on the main line again and still running through a fine country, the train

TAMPICO AND QUERETAEO.

67

comes to the next important city of Lagos," where there is a~ population of 40,000
people, and large manufacturing interests. The city is on the west side of the track,
reached by horse-cars or in hacks. The city is a pretty one, and is worthy of a day's

The Last Moments of Maximilian.
visit, as also is Leon, a place with 100,000 inhabitants, and one of the greatest manu
facturing towns in the republic.
Leon lies in the midst of a vast plain where there are fertile farms and rich graz
ing lands hedged by gigantic cactus — the tree or organ cactus, so called on account
of its resemblance to the pipes of an organ, and which is a feature in every picture
of Mexico. The streets of Leon are narrow, running at right angles, and in every
block and square are workshops of the thousands and thousands of makers of leath
ern goods^shoes, saddles and everything in that line. "There is nothing Like
leather," at Leon. There is a pretty plaza, some fine buildings and interesting mar
kets. Lagos is on the right and Leon on the left of the track.
Silao has an excellent restaurant in the station ; no better meal is served at any
railroad station in Mexico, or out of it. Here is the junction for Guanajuato,
where there are mines that have produced more silver than all the others in the com
bined world ; and there are 100,000 people there now, all engaged in some way about
the mines A. stop must be made at Silao, and a visit to Guanajuato, only six miles
distant by rail to the eastward from the main line, Nineteen miles further to

68 MEXICO.
Irapuato, where connection is made for Guadalajara, famed for its pottery, and one
of the oldest, quaintest and most interesting cities in the republic, or in the world.
An excursion to Guadalajara is absolutely necessary to make a complete tour of
Mexico. About this time, as the farmer's almanac says, lay in your winter strawber
ries. Salamanca is the next place of interest and importance, and then Celaya, where
this line crosses the Mexican National Bailroad. The country is still, for the most
part, a fertile agricultural region, and enjoys a most delightful climate. Although
under a tropic sun, the altitude is such — about 5,000 feet — that spring weather is the
rule, and strawberries are on sale all the year round, brought to the cars in boxes
where the bottom is as high as in those of New York ; but the price is lower and the
berries finer than in most of our markets, another product of the country is
brought to the cars — pulque. Sometimes it is fresh and good, but it is advised not to
render a verdict on the national beverage till it is drank on the plains of Apam.
Queretaro, capital of Queretaro, is the city where Maximilian made his last fight.
Here he surrendered, here he was tried and executed, with his Generals Miram'on
and Mejia. From the windows on the left may be seen three little white stone shafts
on the hillside just north of the city ; these mark the spot where the unfortunate men
were shot. Quere'taro is the headquarters for opals. They are found in great quanti
ties round about. The common ones are offered for sale by the natives at the cars. It
is not advised to buy extensively, but it is advised to pay the exact charge, as the
venders have the same habit as the American newsboy in being tardy in bringing
back the change ; often he does not return till the train is well on to Mexico.
It is better to stop at Queretaro anyhow ; there is much to interest and there are
good hotels. After leaving the station the train passes through the Hercules factory
village, where there is a beautiful grove of tropical trees in full leaf, flower and fruit,
with oranges, lemons and bananas ; and then comes to one of the sights of the ride —
the great stone aqueduct which supplies water to the mills and the city. The massive
stone arches are wonderful in their construction, and of great height. The highest is
94 feet above the ground. The train passes directly under the aqueduct. It may be
seen from either side of the cars ; the first view is on the left.
You have been looking for palm trees, eh ? See the first one at Queretaro.
San Juan del Bio, at an elevation of 6,245 feet, is the last city on the line. It has a
population of 20,000 people. The scenery grows grandly beautiful. There are grand
mountains, with lovely valleys in between, dotted here and there with haciendas and
villages. Now comes to the plain of Cazadero. Crossing it, the road climbs the
mountains which shut in the nation's capital, reaching the top of the grade at
Marquez and the highest elevation on the line, 8,132 feet above the sea ; then starts
down hill to the Tula Valley, where the scenery is more tropical and the towns and
villages are more of the Toltec order.
No matter how early in the morning, or at night, if there be a moon, the tourist
must be on the qui vive for a view of the Tajo de Nochistongo — the great drainage cut,
commenced in 1607 with a purpose to drain the lakes on the plains of Mexico and pre
vent the inundation of the city. It was abandoned a few years later, but has been
talked of ever since ; and now a tunnel is projected at a cost of $8,000,000. The cars
pass along the top of the cut on the left bank, consequently the view is from the
windows on the right side. As soon as the cut is passed let every window on- the
left side be occupied. At Huehuetoca the first view of the snow mountains is to be
had ; the volcanoes of Ixtaccihuatl and Popocatapetl. and the plain of Mexico ; and in
an hour a journey full of pleasure and crowded with novelty ends at Buena Vista
station of the Mexican Central Bailway.

EASTWARD TO TAMPICO.
C7f BOM Chicalote eastward the way passes through a fertile irrigated country, the
pT course of the stream in the valley marked by the springtime green of its bor-
g^ dering trees, the even fields stretching far away, mantled with the verdure of
barley and wheat, or just planted with the summer's crop of maize. Soon the
altitude begins gradually to increase until beyond Salinas it reaches the summit at
nearly 8,000 feet above the sea level — the third highest point in the whole system of
the Mexican Central. The land in these greater altitudes throughout the State of San
Luis Potosi is largely devoted to raising maguey for the production of mescal, the
whiskey-Like liquor which forms the chief distilled beverage of Mexico. The plants
are set out sometimes irregularly, sometimes in rows. They are much smaller than the
pulque maguey, cultivated so extensively in the region around the national capital,
and seldom grow higher than one or two feet. The mescal maguey runs chiefly to
root, from which the liquor is distilled, while pulque is simply the fermented sap of
the large variety of the plant. Occasionally we pass the distillery buildings of one of
these great mescal haciendas, standing in melancholy solitude on the bare upland.
Another feature of the vegetation of this region is the nopal cactus, or prickly
pear, which here grows in dense thickets, mantling the plains with a rough covering
of dark green, giving an effect of luxuriance in spite of the desert-like character of
the plant. This is pre-eminently the land of the nopal, the national plant of
Mexico, for it flourishes hereabouts more luxuriantly than elsewhere in the country.
But a fraction of its crop of excellent fruit is utilized, although large quantities are
gathered by the natives, who are said to Live on it to a great extent during the several
months while it is in season. They also boil it down into a kind of marmalade,
tasting much like crude sugar. The plant has other uses, too, for its leaves when
deprived of their prickles by a slight roasting in the fire, make an excellent fodder
for cattle and sheep. Another feature of this upland vegetation is the great tree-
yucca, or palmilla, with splendid clusters of large white blossoms.
The country appears to be sparsely populated. The only place of importance on
the line between Aguas Calientes and San Luis Potosi is the town of Las Salinas de la
Penya Blanca. Here are the largest salt works in Mexico, and the product goes to
all parts of the country for use in silver reduction, as well as for the table. The
railway is thus assured a large and permanent traffic from this place. For several
years previous to the construction of the railway the production of salt was pushed
at the works in anticipation of that event, and thousands and thousands of tons are
now piled up in enormous heaps ready for transportation. The town of 5,000
inhabitants lives on the salt industry almost exclusively, and previous to the ex
ploitation of the salt deposit, which began in 1842, it was a hamlet of but 500 in
habitants. The deposit is a remarkable one. A shallow lake of fresh water occupies
the place during the rainy season and disappears toward the end of the dry season.
It is underlaid by a stratum of peculiar green clay, and beneath this, within a
few feet of the surface, is an enormous bed of very salt water, found beneath an
area of hundreds of acres. This water is pumped up into large vats and evapo
rated by sun heat, for the most part, though there is one extensive factory where
the work is done by steam. The pumping is done by "norias," water wheels
carrying series of leather buckets of two gallons or more capacity each, and
operated by mule-power. The machines are of the crudest construction, hardly

70 MEXICO.
a scrap of iron or other metal entering into their composition. The salt water is'
dipped up by the revolving buckets and emptied into troughs that carry it to the !
evaporating vats, where the powerful southern sun and dry thin air quickly does the
work. Many attempts have been made, by boring in various parts of the valley, to
discover the deposits of rock salt which must be the source of this supply, but
without success, and even the salt water is found nowhere else than in the centre of
this valley. The salt-works belong entirely to the Errasu family, of the City of
Mexico, and yield an income truly princely. A palatial great house stands near the
works, with handsome grounds. It is fortified like a mediaeval castle. A thick, high
wall, with loop- holes and sentry-towers, incloses the grounds, and a ditch filled, with
water surrounds the wall. At the gateway the ditch is crossed by a drawbridge. All
these precautions were necessary in the former days, when the lonely country was
infested with robbers and bandits, but are needless now. No member of the absentee
proprietary family has visited the place for years, and the house, which is built on a
magnificent scale, has a melancholy air of decay, hardly in keeping with the pros
perous condition of the estate. The sole occupant is the administrator, a Spanish
gentleman who has been in charge of the property for 35 years. The extent of the
works may be surmised when it is stated that several miles of tracks are required to
connect the various storehouses, etc. , with the line of the Mexican Central, to afford
convenient transportation. Light little railway tricycles are used by the officials in
going to and fro between the several parts of the works.
Shortly beyond Las Salinas the descent into the valley where lies the city of San
Luis Potosi begins. From these heights the views range over vast expanses of
mountain and valley, until the solid earth seems to melt away in the soft dry haze
of the sunny air._ The land slopes so gradually and uniformly that long tangents
are possible, and in places the track stretches away downward or upward, before or
behind us, for miles and miles in seeming interminability. The construction is so
exceptionally good, and the track is so well ballasted, that there is little annoyance
from dust, even now, near the end of the long dry season. The maximum grades
on the San Luis operating division of the line to Tampico, comprising the portion'
between the main line and the station of Cardenas, beyond San Luis Potosi, are li
per cent., or 80 feet to the mile, as far east as the verge of the high tableland.
The city of San Luis, or St. Louis of the Treasure, has an impressive aspect as
we approach it. It is a place of something like 50,000 inhabitants, and its mass of
buildings, fringed with trees and verdant gardens, and accented by many beautiful
domes and towers, spreads evenly out over a broad plain, against the dark back
ground of a steep and lofty mountain range that rises above the city a few miles to
the southward. The city gains its name of Potosi from the vast mineral wealth
derived from the great silver mines in the mountain range of San Pedro, a short
distance to the eastward. These mines first gave the city its importance, which
greatly increased when its communication with Tampico, though over rough roads
and trails, made it the great commercial centre for northern Mexico, holding a rank
for this section similar to that held by Guadalajara for the West, through ts neigh
borhood to the Pacific. It is probable that these two cities will hereafter be out
ranked only by the national capital as commercial centres, although Guadalajara
very likely may not resume her old-time position until railway communication with
the Pacific is established.
We enter the city from the north. The entrance is an admirable one. The line
of a former street is followed, and the houses have been demolished for the width of
a block, carrying the tracks well into town, so that both the freight and passenger
stations occupy a handsome, commanding position facing the Alameda the chief
pleasure ground of the city.

SAN YSIDRO VALLEY.

71

San Luis Potosi is a massive looking, handsome city. There are many charming
public gardens, chiefly formed from the grounds of old convents, confiscated at the
time of the Eeformation. The churches and other public buildings are particularly
Deautiful and adorned with rich stone carving. The streets are straight, but narrow.
The altitude is about the same as Aguas Calientes, a little more than 6,000 feet.
By a steady, gradual slope of the plain, at the station of Villar we are already some
thing like 2,000 feet below the level of San Luis Potosi. Looking backward we observe
that the country has a strikingly noble contour, with high, well-rounded mountain
groups rising from wide reaches of plain. We see that the mountains near at hand are
well clothed with trees on their eastward slopes. These grow sparser along their north
ward and southward sides, until their western slopes are dry and bare. The effect is
much like that produced on a rock on the seacoast, fully drenched on one side by the
ocean surges which pour down over its flanks, leaving its landward face unmoistened.
The tableland falls away to the coast in a series of terraces. Each terrace has a
mountain ridge along its verge, thus
forming a succession of long trough
like valleys, extending in a general di
rection from north to south. The hu
mid air from the Gulf of Mexico is
blown inland, precipitating its mois
ture on the easterly slopes of these
ranges, whioh rise in series step after
step. Thus we encounter the invari
able phenomenon that the easterly side
of these valleys as we cross them is
arid, while the western side has abun
dant moisture, even all through the
dry season, and the easterly slopes of
the mountains are luxuriant with ver
dure. Here and there at long intervals
these mountain chains are cut through
with canons, giving passage for the water courses descending from the tableland to
the sea.
Through such an opening we rapidly descend from Villar through the wild San
Ysidro Valley to the next great valley terrace, whose floor has a general level of about
3,000 feet above the sea. The mountain slopes here are so densely wooded that it seems
as if they might be in Berkshire, or in the Alleghenies. The contrast of these softened
contours with the bare, rocky outlines of the tableland mountains that we have just
left is very marked. There is a succession of sharp curves, with the track visible
ahead of us and below us close at hand, that make the famous single Horseshoe Bend
of the Pennsylvania seem like child's play in comparison. With every sudden turn
around the mountain flanks a beautiful new landscape is revealed. At last we reach
the valley plain, and after a run for a few miles over a straight track we reach the
spot where the last rail was laid, and the event celebrated by a barbecue given to
the workmen in recognition of their celerity in hastening the task to its end.
Now we are passing on down the pleasant valley, which soon broadens out into a
wide and fertile plain, with maize fields, green with the freshly sprouted blades,
spreading away as far as the eye could reach. This valley, which has a population of
something like 100,000, is part of the same general terrace on which stands the City
of Monterey, far to the northwest in the State of Nuevo Leon. The principal place
on the line of the railway here is the town of Cerritos. About twenty miles to the
southward of the line is the City of Bio Verde, a place of considerable importance,

Water Carbieb— San Luis Potosi.

72 MEXICO.
which probably will be reached by a branch railway before long. A few miles to the
northward of the railway line is the Villa de Maiz, the centre of a rich agricultural
region. On the eastern side of the valley, surrounded by arid hills, is the station of Car
denas, where the Tampico operating division begins. Just below here we descend
abruptly into the lovely valley glade of Canoas, a grassy-bottomed cup, closed in by
precipitous mountains, from which strange formations of fantastically disposed
rocks reach out into the even ground. A meandering line of great cypress trees
marks the course of a pretty little stream. We feel the change from the dry air of
the valley above ; delicate fleecy clouds float in the tender sky, and a soft breeze
from the Gulf caresses us with a warm, velvety touch.
The descent into the valley of San Ysidro has been but an overture to the titanic
scenery upon which we enter here. A great gorge yawns before us, the ground
suddenly dropping away into it where the lines of the cypresses terminate. It is
the beginning of the grand canon of the Temasopa. Our railway train creeps
along on a shelf hewn in the right-hand side of the caSon, passing in sharp curves
through a succession of tunnels. The stream, which plunges in a pretty cascade
into the canon as we enter it, soon disappears, and runs all the way in underground
channels for several miles. The dry bed at the bottom, several hundred feet below
us, is only occupied by the torrents that pour through in the rainy season. The
canon widens and deepens as we proceed. Where perpendicular cliffs do not
border it, the sides slope at a steep angle, and are thickly covered with trees,
nourished and kept forever green by the stream of moist air ever pouring inland from
the Gulf ; an atmospheric river flowing in the reverse direction to the streams of
water below. The hues of this foliage mantle of the canon sides are something
exquisite ; subtle shadings of green seem to be interwoven, toning up from deep
verdant shadows into high lights of soft yellow, so that the mountain sides seem
garmented with some rich oriental fabric of the mellow, refined colors that we know
as of India ; gorgeous, yet subdued, and without the intrusion of a harsh note.
At one place the track runs through three tunnels in quick succession. Beyond
a peculiar trap-like formation of rock rises out of the mountain slopes in a thick wall,
crossing the canon obliquely, and in the awful depths broken into wild, serrated
masses. The railway passes this barrier through a tunnel, and then we suddenly
come upon a marvelous view. We have reached the mouth of the canon. Before
us and beneath us there spreads out a broad valley, encircled by mountains. Twelve
hundred feet below us, so that we look almost perpendicularly down upon it, stands
the dense, luxuriant forest of the full tropics. The distant murmur of rapidly rush
ing water comes to our ears from the depths. Here and there we see clearings in
the valley, filled with the bright green of the sugar-cane, which we have also ob
served growing in little patches spread out like handkerchiefs, high up on the slopes
of the canon, where it is cultivated by the Indians. It appears to be growing on
land inclined at an angle of considerably more than 45 degrees, and one wonders
how they ever get at it. An American employee of the railway suggests that they
must "gather it with a rifle."
We are far upon a shelf running along the almost perpendicular mountain side,
with grand cliffs towering high above us, and we must descend into the depths of the
valley, where we overlook the line of the track running straight through the thick
forest. Our course is spread out before us almost as on a map. In all the examples
of difficult railway construction that I have seen, I have never before beheld any
thing so striking or so impressive as this great panorama, in which the scenic
grandeur of nature seems to be emphasized, rather than marred, by the mark with
which man has inscribed the record of his engineering triumph upon the face of the

Going to Market.

74 MEXICO.
earth. The landscape is too vast, too glorious, to be defaced by these slight tokens
of human handiwork, and their presence brings up, besides the idea of the sublimity
of nature, another great thought, for they speak eloquently of the power of the
mind of man and the strength of his hand when united to the performance of a great
work. What may not man accomplish when he has once learned the lesson of
achievement through action in unison ?
We see the line of our track at three different places on the slope of the moun
tain before us to the right of the valley, one below the other, before the straight
Stretch through the forest beneath us is reached. Then we again see the track at
three other different places far down the valley, still working its way to lower
ground. Creeping along to the right, on the higher part of the slope, the course
which the railway would otherwise have taken is interrupted by a remarkable
natural obstacle, called El Hoyo de San Jose (the pit of St. Joseph). An enormous
portion of the mountain appears to have caved in, forming a great crater-like sink,
with precipitous sides, overgrowing with vegetation, into whose farthest depths the
eye cannot reach. How deep it is only a certain mule could tell. The mule was em
ployed in railway construction, and with its cart was backed too near the verge one
day, so that both cart and mule went tumbling over, and were never seen again.
The water that runs into the sink finds its way out through some subterranean
outlet. These mountains, composed of limestone, are filled with wonderful cav
erns, of which we shall see and hear more anon.
The railway line, running close to this pit, is forced to turn back and find its way
downward by describing a sort of figure 8 around a convenient knob. At last we
get down to the straight course through the forest that we have described,, from far
above, and find ourselves running through a magnificent tropical avenue, bordered
by the richest arborescent growth I have ever seen. Forest giants stand in close
ranks, festooned with strange vines, and bearing a great variety of orchids on almost
every place where they can gain foothold. The moisture constantly precipitated
against the mountain wall above tells its tale here. Ferns carpet the ground in
abundance, in varied and graceful forms. Strange to say, this primeval forest is a
coffee plantation, for the undergrowth has been cleared away from beneath the great
trees, and coffee shrubs have been planted, their brilliant, glossy evergreen leaves
glistening through the bosky gloom. The richneps of flower growth and luxuriance
pf foliage, the brilliance of gloom, is almost bewildering.
After what we passed through, it seems as if what remains to be seen must be
tame in comparison, but this country turns out to be rich in resources, and sights
equal in charm are yet in store. We keep on across the valley, through dense
thickets of fan palm, clumps of tall and graceful bamboo, and other tropical vegeta
tion. According to the rule of which I nave spoken, the other side of the valley is
more arid, and vegetation sparser. We have been so engrossed in the landscape all
day that we have not thought of eating, but now the emptiness of our stomachs,
which have had nothing since our early breakfast, makes itself evident, and we wait
long enough at the station of Bascon to enjoy a good dinner in our car without miss
ing any of the scenery.
Here at Bascon we enter upon a range of low hills, that, as we proceed, soon
become mountainous in form and height. Suddenly we come upon another great
canon, which gives us passage through this range, down onto the next great terrace
of the Gulf slope, the next to the last before reaching the coast plain. Just at the en
trance to the canon is the station of Micas. Above, on either side, tower two cliff-like
peaks with almost perpendicular sides. There are no engineering difficulties in the
passage of this canon, for we enter it and proceed along its bottom, beside a rushing
river of clear water. ' The pass is called Abra de Caballeros, At its mouth a double

PASO DE ABRA DE CABALLEROS.

75

surprise greets us. We emerge upon a panorama vaster in expanse than that beheld
in our exit from the Temasopa canon. It is sunset, and the lengthening shadows of
the mountains behind us are cast upon a valley plain so vast that it seems as if all the
world must be spread out before us. The valley is hundreds of feet below us, and
our way is along a shelf on the cliff-like wall of the mountains, passing to the right,
until the grade brings us to the level of the plain. Before us, in the hazy distance
to the eastward across the valley, runs the last range, and beyond is the great plain
of the coast. We are here a little over a hundred miles from Tampico.
We look behind us up the canon from which we have emerged. On the oppo
site side rises a grand cliff to a height of something like 3,000 feet, a sheer preci
pice, its perpendicular sides velvety with clinging vegetation, including ferns and
orchids, where it is perpetually caressed by the moist, warm breath of the winds from
the Gulf. And at its feet the river tumbles in a series of cascades 300 feet high, in
color a marvelous green, wreathed with
snowy lace-like foam. The green hue is

given by a peculiar vegetation that cov
ers the rocks beneath the water. We
glimpse the falls, which are called El
Salto del Abra de Caballeros, through a
framework of luxuriant tree-growth that
covers the slopes below us, and, to
' complete the picture, closing in the
vista at the upper end of the canon.
We are again under way, and when
we are up we are approaching the last
mountain pass. The scenery here is fine,
though not so impressive as that of the
previous passes. Near here is the portal
of a large cave, with spacious rotunda
like hall, in which we are not obliged to
grope our way in the customary cavern
like gloom, for the place is pleasantly illuminated by a subdued light proceeding
from above. In the apex of the domed ceiling there is an opening through which
the mellow light pours down as from the cupola of a church. It is sifted through
the foliage of trees clustered above, their leaves glinting in the sunlight, and giving
fragmentary glimpses of the blue sky. Beneath the opening, on the cavern floor,
there is something like a little natural garden, with shrubs, ferns and flowers. From
the margin of the opening there hangs a fantastic fringe of roots, some in delicate
filaments, others grown and consolidated until they form tall and slender columns,
having found a foothold in the ground, and thus rivaling the stalactites and stalag
mites of the place. The walls of the cavern are a soft, pure white, stained in places
in greenish and ruddy shades. We walk on through a series of chambers at various
levels, some broad and low, like the basement vaults of a hugh edifice, and others
high-arched. All have the same characteristics of openings in the roof, with flower
gardens beneath. Flocks of parrots and other birds chatter noisily in the trees
above, and at one place a large bird of some kind is perched so temptingly and
shrieks out so tauntingly that one of our party cannot resist the temptation of tak
ing a shot under such novel conditions. The aim is good and the poor thing falls
fluttering to the ground outside. The spot is inaccessible, so the prize cannot be
obtained. It is a peculiarity of the caves of this country that they almost invariably have
"skylights," after the fashion of this example. Several miles from the railway, too

The Madding Crowd.

7i MEXICO.
far for a visit, is a wonderful cave, known as La Ven tana (the Window), on account of
its remarkable great opening, visible a long distance away, in the side of the moun
tain. The huge chamber of this cave is something like 700 feet high, and is lit by a
large opening above.
Our train emerges from the Boca del Abra through a tunnel, passing this time
to the left along the steep face of the mountain, with the great plain of the coast
spread out before us. It seems as if we might see the ocean in the distance, were it
not for the hazy horizon. The landscape might almost be that of an American
woodland in full springtime, so far as appearances go. For there are many trees
clothed in a light young green, and along the water-courses there grows a beauti
fully blossoming tree called the Palo de Bosa, covered with a mass of rose-colored
flowers. We proceed but a short distance when we stop to visit a still more remarkable cave
than the one we have seen. It is called the Choy cave. Far below us there rushes
out of the mountain-side a beautiful sylvan stream. It proceeds from this cave,
directly across the "skylight" of which the railway, passes on a substantial trestle
bridge of iron. Looking down through the open timbers of the bridge as we crossed
in the train, we can see the stream 205 feet beneath us, rushing out of the cave in
swift rapids. To walk across the bridge is enough to make a person giddy who
ventures for the first time upon such an undertaking. Descending the steep slope,
we gain access to the cave by a separate opening from that out of which the stream
finds its way. The cave has two lofty chambers, each lighted from above.' It
resembles a great doubled-naved cathedral. The rooms are narrow, long and high,
and are connected by a broad, sweeping arch, combining grace and strength, with
just enough irregularity to suggest nature lending her hand to architectural design..
The ground in the part where we enter slopes steeply and roughly down to the water
in the other portion, which contains the most superb natural bathing tank imagin
able. The whole place is floored with water, which gushes silently out of the dim
recesses of the mountain. Many of our party were already in the water as we arrive,
and their merry cries sound strangely as they resound in the quiet, solemn air of the
place. The water is a deep, clear azure in hue, and the bodies of the swimmers,
gleaming whitely, show with strange distinctness through the transparent liquid, for
in the dim light the water surface but slightly throws back any reflection to obscure
what is beneath. At the upper end of the cave there rises a pinnacle twenty feet or
more out of the water, with a perpendicular face and natural steps in the rear,
giving easy access to the top. It is just*the place for diving. With half a dozen
bathers sitting grouped on the sides of this pinnacle, and one standing poised on the
summit ready for a plunge, with others gliding through the water amid the weird
surroundings, it seemed more like a bit of classic mythology than of the nineteenth
century. To realize the latter, there was only the sight of the railway trestle span;
ning the great opening above us, so high in the air as almost to make one dizzy to
look up, for the cave is almost high enough to permit Bunker Hill monument to
stand upright between the water and the roof. Indeed, there would be plenty of
room for it were it built up in the water, which is of unknown depth, a line of sixty
feet not having reached bottom. The water seems to have an exceptional sustaining
force, whether because of a current from below, or whether because the amount of
lime in solution may give it great density, I cannot say. But we felt so buoyant that
it seemed no effort to swim. The temperature is so agreeable that we felt as if we
could remain there all day, and we were loath to depart. We unanimously vote
that we would like to become amphibious and take up our residence in Choy cave,
clothed in nothing but water.
Again on the road, the plain becomes open after a while ; grassy, with clumps of

TAMPICO.

trees here and there. It is a good country for game, and we halt for an hour or so
to give our sportsmen a chance to do some shooting. They are disappointed as to
the deer, which abound here, but bag a goodly number of pheasants.
At kilometer 21, this side of Tampico, there are the ruins of an ancient city,
a vestige of the Aztecs, or some other indigenous race of the pre-Columbian days.
Word has been sent ahead for some natives to go out with their machetes to clear the
path for us, it having become obstructed by the quickly growing tropical vegetation.
Their task is nearly done when we arrive, and we have a pleasant walk for something
like a mile through the dense, shady forest. We come to the slope of a considerable
hill and encounter remains of embankments and other earthworks, together with a
large, rudely sculptured stone. At the summit we find a collection of pyramidal
and conical mounds, many of them excellently preserved by a sort of shell of rec
tangular stone slabs set close
ly together on edge. Some ex
cavations made several years
ago showed the interior to be
composed of earth, commin
gled with ashes and broken
pottery. We had but a few
moments to give to the place,
but some interesting fragments
of pottery, figurines, etc., re
warded our search. The ruins
extend for several miles, and
a populous city must once
have occupied the site. It is
supposed that the houses of
the inhabitants, built of cane
and reed, similar to those of
to-day, stood on the top of
the mounds.
At Tamos, several miles
above Tampico, we catch our
first sight of the Panuco, truly a noble, great river.
point for ocean steamers of considerable draught.
Just beyond Tamos we cross the Tamesi, another large river, by a long and sub
stantial drawbridge, at its junction with the Panuco. Both streams are navigated by
steamboats far into the interior, and those who have made the journeys say that they
are well worth while, the scenery being particularly fine as well as novel.
A few minutes more and we arrive at Tampico. The station is close to the
water, where the view is enlivened by the various craft lying at the wharves and
anchored in the stream — schooners, brigs, river steamers, tugs, lighters, etc. — a
respectable fleet, altogether, and but an earnest of what will be seen here within two
years. Tampico is an attractive looking place of about 5,000 inhabitants, with an
architectural appearance quite different from what may be seen elsewhere in Mexico.
It seems a combination of New Orleans with a distinctively Spanish style. The
buildings mostly have pitch roofs, and wood is more commonly employed in con
struction than elsewhere in Mexico, though the walls are chiefly of massive masonry.
The houses often have wooden verandas along their fronts at each story, in the style
common in the Southern States of our country. A large part of the city stands on a
bluff, which rises from near the river to a height of perhaps 60 and 80 feet or more,
and at the end of two of the streets broad stone steps descend to the water-front.

The Water God— At the Excavation.

The stream is navigable to this

78 MEXICO.
The river at Tampico is 1,800 feet wide, and for an average breadth of 800 feet
for several miles above its mouth, the minimum depth is 30 feet. The rise and fall
of the tide is so slight— only about 18 inches— that there is no inflowing current, and
with the construction of the jetties there will be a constant outgoing scour across
the bar. For the greater part of the way the river banks are low and marshy, but
on the right shore, two or three miles below the town, there is a line of high, rocky
bluffs, that some time will probably be in demand as a place of summer residence,
with their fine view of the sea and "sweep of the breeze from the gulf, which, blow
ing soft and free for most of the time during our stay, makes the air agreeably
refreshing. The return trip was as eventful and full of surprises as our going down, and there
were yet other things to see in the canon of Tamesopa.
In the beautiful avenue made by the railway through the cafetal, the exuberant
tropical forest at the foot of the Tamesopa cafion, we walk through the woods until
we come to a deep descent, the black soil slippery in the misty air of that morning.
Scrambling down, we st.\nd on the verge of the Puente de Dios (the Bridge of God),
and, if any of nature's marvels deserves that reverent title, it is this spot. The arch
of the bridge we cannot fjee, but we stand on the steep verge of a pool of wonderful
azure water. The blue, certainly never surpassed by that of the clearest Swiss lake,
is more heavenly by reason of its emerald setting. Strange, fantastic cliffs tower on
all sides, crowned with great trees, garlanded with vines, adorned with orchids,
densely matted with the most delicate of ferns. On one side a large waterfall leaps
foaming into the pool, and the whole face of the cliff opposite is laced with swift
little streams pouring in vertical lines over the background of ferns and moss.
Elsewhere, the water comes pouring in a light sheet down over a strangely formed
slanting shelf, with smooth surface and sharp, ragged edges. It makes a grotto-like
effect, and in substance seems spongy, yet hard in texture. It is, indeed, half min
eral, half vegetable, in composition, for it is formed of the roots of shrubs and plants
incrusted with the limestone precipitated by the water.
We penetrate into a long and narrow cavern, with convenient submerged shelves
at the sides, where we can stand and rest, with the water up to our shoulders. Sud
denly we find ourselves swimming in water of a strangely luminous blue, so that it
seems as if we might be floating in the ether of heaven itself. The light, coming
from below, grows stronger. Keeping on, we discover the source of the azure
brilliance as we make a turn in the cavern, for we come upon the arch of the Puente
de Dios, which is entirely below the water that rises to a height of a few inches
above it, and the light gleams through beneath the surface from the pool we have
first seen. Above the arch there is a little window in the rock, through which we
look upon the fairy-like scene, with the large cascade before us, on the other side of
the pool. The whole experience seemed as near enchantment as anything that one
could hope to meet with in this world.
The description of the scenes on the Tampico line is adapted from a letter of
Sylvester Baxtsr, in the Boston Herald.

NORTH OVER THE MEXICAN CENTRAL
§F your arrival over the Mexican Central has been at night, and you would see
those parts of the road in daylight which were passed at night on the trip
southward, a trip on the north-bound day train leaving the Capital will amply
repay in scenic interest and varied views of Mexican life, curious cities and
towns. The first hour of travel northward shows the plain and City of Mexico, and the
surrounding hills, the snow-capped volcanoes of Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl
rising high up against the sky — seen last from Huehuetoca at the entrance of the
Tajo de Nochistongo, the great canal cut with a purpose to drain the waters of the
lakes around it and save the City of Mexico from inundation ; but now, 280 years
after the work was commenced, it is unfinished and abandoned. No better view of
the great work can be obtained than from the trains of the Mexican Central Bailway,
from the windows on the left side of a north-bound train.
Tula, fifty miles from the city, is the object of a most pleasant day excursion.
Leaving on the morning train and returning in the evening allows seven or eight
hours at one of the oldest towns in Mexico, once a great city, but now containing
only about 2,000 people. According tp the native historian Clavigero, Tula was a city
of the Toltecs more than a thousand years ago, who were followed by the Chichimecs
four hundred years later, and still later by the Mexicans, whose chief city was Tula
until about the year 1325, when the City of Mexico became the capital. Undoubt
edly Tula has the age on many other towns of Mexico, as may be proven by the rel
ics of bygone centuries that are to be seen in and around the city. The ruins of the
old Toltec town are especial objects of interest, the visit to which will occupy some
hours. " In the plaza of Tula and in the churches are some broken columns and statues
of great size, and some graven stones whose ages antedate even the Toltecs/ The
church of San Jose was dedicated over 325 years ago, and is a massive fort-like
structure, so built, with thick walls, to afford protection against attack from the
Indians in the early days.
The ride down from Tula is across the plain of Cazadero, and the next point of
interest-is Queretaro. Approaching from the south the train passes under one of the
arches of the great aqueduct which fijmishes the city's water supply, and through a
suburb of the city, with its orange trees, limes and bananas and tropical flowers, close
to the great Hercules cotton mills.'" Horse-cars from the station pass by the alameda,
a very pretty park planted with palms and other tropical trees.
The opal is considered an unlucky stone, in which case good luck could not abide
at Queretaro, on account of the abundance of opals found in the region round about
— opals of all sizes, shapes and colors, good, bad and indifferent, but all worth just
as much as the vender can get or the purchaser will stand — they are on sale every
where, in the stores, at the hotel, on the street and the railway station. ' You may
talk about the weather, politics or the prosperity of the country, but the talk will
wind up on opals. A representative best citizen may welcome you to the city
and discourse of its beauty, health and climate ; but in an unguarded moment may
spring an opal on you. > The unsuspecting traveler alights from the train unconscious
of opals, but ere he reaches the alameda his suspicions are aroused, and every man,
woman and child is viewed with alarm lest opals be thrust upon one whether or no.
But there is much else at Queretaro besides opals, and much that was, that is not now.

80

MEXICO.

The unfortunate Emperor Maximilian made his last stand at Queretaro, was
captured, tried and executed. In a room of the legislative building are kept the
coffin in which Maximilian was brought from the field, the wooden stools on which
Miramon and Mejia sat during
the trial. The emperor, being I
ill, did not attend, but was \
confined in a cell in the con
vent of the Capuchins. The
table on which the death
warrant was signed is
preserved. Just west
of the city, in a
|tony field, was ""
ike place of ex
ecution, now ,,
marked by '**
three little

Guadalajara.

white shafts inclosed by an iron railing, which can be seen from the cars, looking
from the right-hand windows after leaving the station going north
Celaya, in the beautiful valley of Laja, is the next point of interest and is the
crossing of the Mexican National Bailroad. * The city is to be seen on the west side of
the track the high church towers standing up against the background made by blue
hills. The chronicler says that Celaya was founded by sixteen married men an d their
wives and seventeen young bachelors. Just why their numbers or conditions attended
the foundmg, does not appear. Celaya is noted for its dukes as Queretaro is for

QUERETARO AND CELAYA.

81

bpals, and are as assiduously offered by the native manufacturer and vender to the
yisiting tourist. Dulces, if not explained before, are sweetmeats, confections of native
make.' The sixteen married men and seventeen bachelors commenced to build churches
early, and when in after years they were completed they were pronounced the finest
in the land, and they have, indeed, great claims that way, both as to architecture,
interior decoration and paintings. Especially is this true of the churches of Our
Lady of Carmen and San Francisco, which alone are worthy of a stop over at Celaya.
At any station in this lati
tude the traveler may expect
to have strawberries thrust *• d,^-^ K<tvs.l^-ia>§'cW^i &lb ' '
at his window, whether he
passes by in December or j
May. The finest straw
berries are offered at
Irapuato, and, as
stated, the Mexi
can exhibits an
evidence of
the highest
civilization f
in locat
ing the

Guadalajara.

bottom of the strawberry boxes so near the top. Passing Salamanca, a place noted
for its manufactures and white pottery clay or kaolin, the train comes to Irapuato, a
place of little importance in itself, but the point of junction of a branch line of the

82 MEXICO.
Mexican Central for Guadalajara, a noted city of the republic, hitherto unvisited on
account of its inaccessibility.
Irapuato ! Change cars for Guadalajara ! is the cry of the trainman now, only he
don't say it exactly that way, that's what he means, and perhaps the cry of the Mex
ican trainman may seem to the American traveler as intelligible as those he hears on'
the home roads. The road runs through a rich agricultural country, where large
crops of wheat and corn are raised. The line is rich in scenic beauty, as all roads
in Mexico are, and the journey may be one of pleasure, no matter whatever other
object it may have. The first station of importance is Penjamo, 49 kilometres from
Irapuato, near which is the town of the same name, with a population of nearly
8,000, and a very interesting old place, with narrow, crooked streets and quaint
houses. The town is about three miles from the station.
About two miles from the station La Piedad is the city of Piedad Cabadas, known
in ancient and modern history by several other names, but now answering to the one
written here. Piedad has a population of over 10,000 people. About 15(7 kilometres
from Irapuato the road comes to the valley of the Lerma, sometimes called the Kio
Grande, and is the Mississippi of Mexico, the longest river in the republic. The
river empties into Lake Chapala at the eastern end, and twenty miles further, on the
northeastern shore, another river flows out of the lake, called by some the same river;
Lerma or Bio Grande. Certainly one is the inlet of the waters and the same one the
outlet, the one river seemingly crossing the lake. The river is not navigable. On
the contrary it abounds in rapids and cascades.
The road comes nearest to the river and lake at La Barca, a city of 10,000 inhab
itants, located at the junction of the Lerma and Lake Chapala. From La Barca the
steamer Libertad makes voyages around Lake Chapala, making landings on both
sides and returning again to the starting point, covering a distance both ways of
about 70 miles. The voyage is one of many delights, the scenery is exceptionally
beautiful — high mountains and fertile plains, and valleys with fields and groves of
tropical fruits and plants. Sometimes, when an east wind prevails, the high wind
and waves loosen the vegetation growing in the shallow water of the delta where the
Lerma comes in, and scores of floating islands are met with in the voyage.
The steamer Libertad is a new boat, built since the completion of the railway.
Her predecessor, wnose machinery was brought from California and packed piece
by piece on burros from San Bias on the Pacific coast, has been retired, and her old
boiler lies on the beach a rusty monument to American pluck and energy. It is not
recorded that any other people have carried steamboats over mountains by mule power.
The town of Chapala on the north shore of the lake is picturesquely located under
the towering cliffs of the mountain. The place has long been a health resort on
account of the very hot springs that are there, which have a great local reputation.
The waters, clear as crystal, gush from the rocks in the side of the mountain.
Continuing the rail journey toward Guadalajara the track crosses the Lerma again
at Ocotlan, where there is a glimpse of the lake from the windows on the left side.
Near El Castillo, a little station fifteen miles east of Guadalajara, are the famous
Falls of Joanacatlan, not inaptly termed the Niagara of Mexico. Here the great
Biver Lerma, the Mississippi of Mexico, being the longest river in the country,
having emptied its waters into Lake Chapala, proceeds to empty that water again
into another river or the same one continued, and comes foaming and fretting in
rapids and whirlpools a la Niagara, and makes a sheer descent of nearly a hundred
feet over the precipice at Joanacatlan and there tumbles over the rocks, forming
other rapids and whirlpools, and afterward flows more peacefully westward, finding
its way to the Pacific Ocean, as I have said, forming the longest river in Mexico but
navigable at no point except where it widens out into Lake Chapala.

FALLS OF JOANACATLAN.

83

Waterfalls are not common in Mexico at all seasons. It is only in the rainy season,
when water falls to any alarming extent ; then there are cascades, and cataracts that
are not all in your eye, so to speak, they are here, there and everywhere, and are
not always either useful or ornamental — but Joanacatlan is a beauty and a joy for
ever in Mexico in that its waters flow on forever, in season or out of season, and the
journey thither is one of the tourist's things to do.

The Falls of Joanacatlan.

One may leave the train at El Castillo and proceed to the falls by horse-cars, or
ride over on burros or horses from Guadalajara, in either case tjh,e charming views are
worth all the ride and the stop over there just to see how the
Waters come a battlin', how they come a rattlin'
Over the rocks at Joanacatlan.
The pools with foam a dapplirj', every rock a grapplin'
Below the falld at Joanacatlan.
The first view of Guadalajara may be had from the right-hand side of the train,

84 MEXICO.
looking forward. It is a city of nearly 100,000 inhabitants, and is the capital of the
State of Jalisco. A very beautiful and very interesting city, where some days may
be pleasantly spent. The city has for centuries been noted for its fine pottery,
ornamental and glazed in the most beautiful and fantastic designs, and is the chief
industry of a large class at the present day. Manufacturing in almost every branch
is carried on, as this has for centuries been a great commercial centre and distribut
ing point for a large territory. There are four lines of horse-railways leading to the
different suburbs, each one offering something of interest to the tourist.
The city is beautifully laid out ; the streets run at right angles and for many
blocks the walk-ways are under the stone portales. There are 14 portales, 20 plazas,
14 bridges, 5 theatres, 25 baths, 23 restaurants and 28 hotels of all classes ; among
the latter there is one kept by a German, which has a lovely patio filled with
beautiful plants and flowers, onto which all the rooms open, and if you wish,
meals are served on the gallery in front of your door. It is a German garden in
the heart of Mexico. There are no finer public buildings anywhere in Mexico than
in Guadalajara. Among these are the Cathedral, the Governor's palace and the
Degollado theatre, all magnificent specimens of the Mexican style of architecture,
and of such proportions that such piles are totally unexpected in this far-away region
so long without communication with the outside world.
Through the eastern part of the city runs the San Juan de Dios, and along that
stream is the Paseo from the alameda to the southern boundary of the city. Tho
Alameda, Plaza de Armas, Jardin Botanico, Parque Alcade and Calzada de San Pedro
are all pretty parks or gardens where there are music and flowers — places of great
resort in the evening, Sundays and feast days.
Speaking of gardens, the Hospital of Guadalajara contains twenty-three patios,
and each has its flowers, plants and fountains.
What with the markets, streets, people, scenery, this description might go on to
fill a book ; but the space here is limited, and we must go back to the main line of
the Mexican Central and see what there is at Silao and Guanajuato. To do this, re
turn must be made to Irapuato.
The tall, slender spire of the church of Santiago is seen from the windows on, the
right of a train going north, and a few moments later the train stops at the station
for Silao, where there is a restaurant kept by an American, a railway eating-house
that would rank above the average even in the United States. A bountiful supply of
good food is served at all times. The city of Silao, distant about a mile from the
station, has a population of 16,000 people. There is sufficient interest for a visit ;
there are good drives around the city, some fine mineral springs, and the usual
Mexican Life and novelty. From Silao there is a branch road to Guanajuato, or
rather to Marfil, and thence by horse-cars to a great silver, city.
The road from Silao winds around among the hills, where there are some pretty
fields, passing adobe villages, and coming to Marfil, where there is a change to horse-
cars which go at a gallop up the barranca, passing some of the greatest silver mines
of the world and the haciendas where the reduction works are. The street, or road,
along which the cars pass, is crowded with people going to and fro, and with burros
loaded with silver ore. _ The peculiar houses on either side make the trip most pic
turesque. The hills rise up high and steep on both sides, and wherever there is a
place big enough, or niche can be cut in the rocks, a house is built there, the getting
up or down being a secondary consideration ; and how the feat is accomplished by
any animal short of a goat, or by any other means than a hook and ladder outfit, I am
unable to determine. The homes of these^cliff-dwellers dot the hills on both sides
of the barranca and around the city. r
After three miles of this Moorish street, the cars stop at the prettiest little plaza,

GUADALAJARA AND GUANAJUATO.

85

adorned with flowers and tropical plants. Here are the hotels and the centre of the
city. The cars go on up the narrow, crooked street, and the ride is full of interest.
Bide up and walk down, and what you will
see will make some novel additions to your
note book. The end of the track is opposite
a lovely little park at the head of the ravine.
This is the alameda, and above it is the reser
voir of the city's water supply. Water is also
stored in the ravine by strong dams of stone.
Here are some of the prettiest residences in
Mexico, perched on the mountain-side as they
are, with a towering cliff at the back door andl
miniature lakes at the front, with gallery andl
casement hung with brightest flowers. There is I
no such street of such houses even in Mexico.
Looking across a reservoir of clear water was I
a little low house of Pompeiian colors with case- 1
mated windows covered with flowering vines. I
The gable toward the water had an old wheel I
window, around which the vines had climbed. I
On a wall stood a peacock with feathers out- 1
spread 'gainst a light background, whilst the I
other birds sat quietly as if posing for a picture. I
•Some ducks swam lazily in the water of the fore- 1
ground. A bridge across the water was shaded I
by trees of japonica, and another tree had some I
bright yellow flowers through all its branches —
and this picture was doubled by a reflection in the water.
An enthusiastic lady writes thus of Guanajuato :
" Quaintest spot and most delightful under the sun 1
The little city of Guanajuato — niay its name be written
in letters of gold — has succeeded in charming away the
few remaining senses which this enchanting Mexico has
left us. A city among the mountains, a fortified place
set upon the side of heights so steep that the houses
seem to be fastened to the rock rather than resting upon
it, and a misstep on the dizzy uppermost level of the
narrow, steep streets would precipitate the unlucky one
into the midst of some plaza three or four hundred feet
below. A lovely, bewildering spot, full of
lanes and archways and winding, twisted
market-places, with a crowd of pictur
esque people selling every oddity under
the sun and a screen of matting; with a
crossing and interlacing of narrow paved ways which give
at every ten steps the effect of a kaleidoscope with a vista
of infinite beauty and novelty at each turning.
" The upper balconies of the many really beautiful
houses were gay with bright awnings and marvelous
flowers ; the old Church of the Jesuits was magnificent in fine arches of soft, pink
stone and wonderful carvings, fine as strips of lace work ; the overhanging hills
toppled against the deep blue sky wherever one turned, and tlirough a hundred

A srvvr

WATER. CARRJ

86] MEXICO.
different arches some vision of softly frescoed, slender pillared inner courts, bright
with blossoms and fresh with greenery, flashed out, no matter how swiftly one
passed. .^
" While we were in the plaza a beautiful flight of birds, a thousand swift-winged
atoms with a dash of warm red on the dark breasts, wheeled and dipped and rose
through the clear air with a rhythm of motion that set the scene to music, and so I
desire to remember it. And into this ravishing spot we were whirled without any
more warning than the corners of a few sharp mountain spurs could give us."
The Alhondiga, now a prison, but once the Board of Trade building, was cap
tured by Hidalgo during the war for independence. Later on, his head was brought
here after his execution at Chihuahua, and exposed on a spike in the wall which (the
spike) is still shown: Still later a bronze statue was erected to his memory in front
of the building.
There are many other fine buildings in Guanajuato, among which is a magnificent
theatre larger than any in New York, built of a beautiful green stone found in the
neighborhood. The churches are very fine — one, that of Compafiia, cost nearly a
quarter of a million of dollars, of which nearly half went for blasting a space in the
hillside for it to rest on.
The Mint is especially worthy of a visit. The manner of coining is the same as in
the mints of our country. It is the operatives that are interesting. An old and
wrinkled Indian, whose hair is silvered as the metal he works in, has handled the
ladle for forty years. He opens the door of the fiery furnance and dips his ladle in
the molten metal, not a drop too much or an ounce too little to fill the mould ; and his
record for the time shows not a day of absence. Two younger Indians are expert at
detecting imperfect coins by the sense of touch. They sit on low stools with a pile
of coins on each side, without looking, and with a single grasp gather twenty silver
pieces — always twenty, never a dollar more or less. Then sliding the coins from one
hand to the other, the slightest scratch or defect is detected, and the imperfect coin
is thrown to one side to go through the mill again. It is on record that no coin
handled by these two Indians has ever issued from the mint with an ,imperfection
however slight. The weighing and counting is done with the same degree of accu
racy, the system reaching absolute perfection. Dolores, near Guanajuato, was the
scene of the commencement of the revolution for the independence of Mexico, also
the birthplace of Hidalgo, the patriot priest.
Before the train leaves the station at Marfil buy an ice from the Indian venders of
helados, a sort of ice-cream put up in tin tubes about two inches in diameter and three
inches long, frozen hard and very nicely flavored. The cry " E-low " is a corruption
of the word helado, meaning frozen.
Back on the main line again, a ride over a fertile plain brings to the great manu
facturing city of Leon, where there are 100,000 people engaged in manufactures
mostly in leather and leather goods. There is enough of interest at Leon for a stop
over one train at least, and at Lagos there should be another stop.
The country northward is mixed, fertile and otherwise, with a varied scenery.
At or near Encarnacion, see on the left side the town of that name, with
its churches and towers. On the other side is the river Encarnacion, with an
irrigation reservoir near the track. A high and very fine iron bridge
spans the river just north of the station. This pleasant excursion must
have another break at Aguas Calientes, the capital of the State of that name,
having a population of 35,000 people. In translating, aguas calientes means
hot waters, and the name is well chosen. Hot springs are numerous * and a
superabundance of hot water runs through the town, converting the streets where
they flow into one vast laundry . Here the Indian population come to do their washing

88

MEXICO.

Babies are brought along tied with a string, and allowed to paddle in the warm
waters. Evidences of the uses of the hot water are seen everywhere. In the horse-
cars ladies with their hair down the back, hung out to dry as it were, are returning
from the bath, and men with towels on their arms walk and ride to the baths. The

Palace at Aguas Calientes.

ditch which crosses the track at the station extends to the pools and baths a half
mile away on the east side. On each side the women are washing their clothes or
down in the ditch bathing themselves and children. I saw one old man waiting for
his wife to finish her bath ; he, like Mark Twain and the Sandwich Island surf bath
ing girls, sat down to watch the clothes till the wearer came out. A little further on I
saw an indigent American, who had asked me for a tlaco in the market, arranging for
a change of linen by playing the part of his own washerwoman. At the head of the
ditch where the hot waters issue from the ground are more pools, washerwomen and
bathers and some stone bath houses, very primitive but very clean, with great pools
of hot, clear water, where you can bathe in the open air in January, bathe under green
trees and hear the birds sing as if it was summer. The water is' deliciously warm
and the baths most healthful. An old Indian gives you clean towels, soap (a new
ca&e), indicates your pool and leaves you to take care of yourself.
Aguas Calientes is noted for its pretty plazas and parks, of which there are
several, one in the centre of the city. Another, a few squares west, is a most lovely

AGUAS CALIENTES. 89
garden with a fountain absolutely surrounded with roses and a thousand ever-
blooming flowers known only to the tropics ; and still another park further out,
reached by horse-cars, as beautiful as the others, to which also there is a fine drive ;
but in the town not many vehicles to hire that would make the use of the drive
anyways pleasant. •..
The plaza at night is one of dazzling brilliancy. A military band of sixty or
seventy pieces, on a magnificent stand, in a perfect bower of tropical plants and
lighted by hanging lamps of great beauty, discourses sweet music while the "upper
ten " promenade in two endless processions, in adverse directions, around the walks
under the trees —Spanish lace and the reboso mingling, while the brigand-looking
Mexican sits muffled to the eyes in red zerape, as if a Bismarck blizzard was blowing
instead of balmy breezes amongst fragrant flowers.
Dark-eyed senoritas watched by sober senoras smoking cigarettes, crowd the seats,

Bridge and Beservoir at Encarnacion.

stealing glances at the passing parade. Beauty is out in full force, and the duenna
is there for its protection. The procession lasts from 8 to 10 ; then the band plays
the "Danza" (a Mexican band always plays the "Danza" for a finale), "buenos
noches '"' are spoken, the last stolen glance enjoyed, and perhaps a hurried word if the
duenna is not looking that way, and all is over till the band plays again, which it
does two or three times in a week.

90 MEXICO.
The market of Aguas Calientes is interesting. On four sides are heavy columned
1 portales inclosing an open space, where the hucksters sit on the ground surrounded
by their wares, vegetables in little piles, in day time under a plaited mat held by
three poles to shelter from the sun ; at night little fires furnish each with light suffi
cient for traffic. In the pottery market will be found many novelties, offered for sale
in the same style. Opposite one of the markets is a church, whose lofty door is
almost hidden by luxuriant palms, bananas, with an undergrowth of roses.
There are good hotels at Aguas Calientes, and there is every reason why a stay in
the city should be a pleasant one.
The country north of Aguas Calientes is rich in farms, towns and cities ; some fine
haciendas with expensive aqueducts for irrigating purposes. Some curious -shaped
mountains stretching to the east just after leaving the station are in view for many
miles. Passing over a table land of fertile fields, far over to the east can be seen the
waters of a lake. In Mexico it is not always a lake that is seen in the distance, seeming
to the weary horseman to be of cooling waters, but a cruel delusion, a phantom lake
that gets farther away as he approaches. Down the slope to the right of the track is
the city of Guadaloupe, the fine church easily distinguished by its tower and domes.
Now the track winds around another hill and Zacatecas comes in view, and runs over
a very bed of silver, some of the mines being directly under the track, and others on
the hill above it. Look across the barranca to the road and horse-railway track
between the two cities. See the great haciendas and reduction works. There is no
v such scene of life and animation anywhere in one view. One sees fewer wheels than
donkeys. Burros are cheaper than wheels ; burros never get tired and wheels have to
be ; and iron for tires is scarcer than silver ; and the donkey goes without shoes
and eats little, gets up early and stays out late. Hence the patient little beast is
preferred to wheels.
On the high hill on the other side are the cemeteries ; but the round, white, tomb
like stones about on the hills do not mark the resting place of departed souls, but
the boundaries of silver claims. The peculiarly shaped hill with the rocky crest is
called the Bufa or Buffalo. The little church up there is Los Bemedios, to which
the pilgrims climb, in a manner in keeping with their digressions from the path of
rectitude. If one has been very naughty, the proper caper is to crawl. This manner
of doing penance is a little rough, particularly on this route, but it is indulged in
by the native of the sensitive conscience. The rock where the church is located is
flaton top, and once, during a revolution, a battle was fought there, and a five-pound
cannon forced a surrender of the assaulting party in a few hours. The view from
La Bufa is very fine, seven cities are within its scope, and numerous hills and
valleys. The view of Zacatecas from the cars, looking down on the flat-top houses, reminds
one of the pictures and descriptions of the biblical cities, and is one not easily for
gotten. When the train stops at the station, all sight of the city is lost behind an
intervening hill. Horse-cars from the station need no propelling power for the first
half of the journey, but a double team is required to get up through the streets to
the hotels and plazas. As is usual in Mexico, there are great crowds at the stations
at train-time ; this is particularly so at Zacatecas, and often the military band is
there to play for the passing tourist. _ v "'
To look at the city from the cars it would not seem that there was a place for a
plaza or alameda on such steep hillsides ; but Zacatecas has both, and very pretty
ones, with beautiful plants, flowers, and fountains — and in the midst the band plays
in the evening and the people come out in their picturesque costumes to promenade
¦ and listen. In the business centre the place has quite an American look on account
of the high buildings— some are three and four stories high. The State and

ZACATECAS TO GUADALOUPE. 91
municipal palaces, the mint, the fine old churches are all worthy of the tourist's at
tention. The hotel Zacatecano is quite an imposing structure. *
The pilgrimage to Guadaloupe is one of the things to do— and it can be done
comfortably and quickly. Horse-cars start from the plaza and run down the six miles
by gravity. The mules which pull the cars from Guadaloupe to Zacatecas leave
their harness on the cars and walk leisurely down without a load. An American with
me suggested that this was a waste of valuable mule time, and thought they should
carry a load of freight. He was from Boston (the man was, not the mule), and disliked
idleness in any shape, mule or man. I said nothing, only thought if the mule made
no kick the Boston man ought not to.
At Guadaloupe the cars stop right in front of the market, and the walk through
it is interesting, besides being in the route to the church. Leave the market at the
lower left-hand corner, the street there leads directly to the church.
_ In front of the church is a pretty park of roses, well kept. The grand old church
with its tiled dome is worthy of all the journey to see. The main altar has life-
size figures representing the Crucifixion. Behind there is a canvas painting repre
senting the hill of Calvary, with the Jews and Boman soldiery in the middle back
ground. These, with the figures in front, produce a very startling effect.
The church is filled with people kneeling at the various altars and confessionals
at all times. On the right of the church is the old art gallery, filled with hun
dreds of curious paintings illustrating the Lives and temptations of the saints — some
of them going very much into detail. One fine picture of a giant and cherub, at the
head of the staircase, is finely executed, and seems to be the work of a master hand.
The Capilla, or chapel, is a more recent addition to the old church, the gift of a
maiden lady of great wealth, a few years ago, and cost many thousands of dollars.
The floor is inlaid with hard woods of different colors. A superb altar is rich in gild
ings, silver and gold, wax figures, silk and satin hangings. The altar rail is of onyx
and solid silver. The walls are finely frescoed, arched to a dome fifty feet above the
floor. This is all new, but is the finest chapel in Mexico. The ride back to Zacatecas
is not so rapid, but the mules work to the entire satisfaction of everybody, the
Boston man included.
The mines may be visited by permit. Some are entered by shafts, others by
tunnel. If you choose the former, the descent is by bucket let down by horse-power
windlass. Ladies undertake the trip sometimes, but are not welcomed by the
miners, as they are regarded as unlucky visitors. This rule does not apply to
the proper sort of a girl, if a white horse works the windlass.
Calera, Lerdo, Torreon, Jiminez, Chihuahua, are all important cities on the
Mexican Central Bailroad, between Zacatecas and El Paso, which have had attention
in another part of this book.

THE INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY
[Y its charter and concessions will extend from the Gulf of Mexico to the
Pacific Ocean, and the City of Mexico will be a way station. As now com
pleted, what is called the Morelos road extends from the capital southward
to Cuautla and Yautepec, and the Irolo road to the town of that name, with
an eastern destination at Vera Cruz, going via Puebla and Jalapa ; which places, for
merly reached by branch roads, are now on the main line.
The road is under construction and rapidly pushing to completion its eastern
terminus at Vera Cruz, on the Gulf of Mexico, and. its western at Acapulco, on the
Pacific. The Interoceanic will be of vast interest to the commerce of the world, as it
will be the shortest route across the continent of the Americas, involving the shortest
sea voyage, meaning, that the shorter railways at Tehuantepec and across the
Isthmus of Panama necessitate longer sea voyages of thousands of miles in both
oceans, which more than counterbalance the slight increase of distance on land
as covered by the Interoceanic Bailroad. The distance from Vera Cruz to Acapulco
by the way of the City of Mexico is 1,030 kilometres or about 645 miles, but the
completion of the road from Chietla to the main line on the western slope, say
at Tepecoacuilco, would shorten the mileage from sea to sea to about 475 miles — a
one day's run for a passenger train and little more than two for a freight, and, as I
have said, saving of several days sail on the Atlantic or Gulf of Mexico and as much
on the Pacific.
As a tourist route the Interoceanic B. B. has unbounded attractions, running as it
does over the mountains, through the pulque plains and the hot country ; it is the
only line reaching the volcanoes of Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl, running on both
sides of the range and in full view of them for miles and miles, coming to their •
base at Amecameca, one of the most thoroughly Mexican towns in all Mexico.
Puebla, one of the oldest and most interesting cities of the country, is on the main
line, hitherto reached only by change of cars to a branch road. Jalapa, the quaint, is
also on the main line, and will be passed en route from Vera Cruz to the City of
Mexico, an advantage that will be appreciated by those who have taken the seventy-
mile horse-car ride. To visit either Puebla or Jalapa has heretofore taken the best
part of two days in going and returning, but now the schedules of the Interoceanic
will save all this time. For day excursions from the City of Mexico the new road
offers more attractions than any other ; one may go to Amecameca and the volcanoes
and return same day, or to Puebla, passing the Plains of Apam, the pulque regions,
or to Texcoco and the wonderful and luxurious gardens of Molino de Flores, and a
score of other interesting points, the visiting of which will add to the interest of the
tour. The Morelos trains leave the City of Mexico from San Lazaro station, reached by
horse-cars starting from the plaza in front of the Cathedral. Passing tlirough the
outskirts of the city, the artillery school and adobe targets are on the left. Then the
road comes to the shores of Lake Texcoco, and for some miles runs along the old
causeway, once the highway to Puebla, passing between two rows of trees standing
so close to the track that they can be almost touched from the cars. The lake is on
the left, and a marsh that in rainy season is also a lake, and at all times is literally
alive with ducks and other waterfowl. This marsh connects Lake Texcoco with
Lakes Xochimilco and Chalpo,

CITY OF MEXICO TO AMECAMECA.

93

Los Beyes is the point of' junction of the two sections (the Irolo and Morelos) 0f
the Interoceanic road.
Ayotla is the town of fishermen of Lake Chalco, who bring the products of their
catch to the trains for sale. The old adode town is a very pretty one, on the shores
of the lake to the right
After passing Ayotla the road makes a turn around the lake, and the volcanoes

On the Sacred Mountain at Amecameca.
come to view and are in sight through all the journey, seen first from the left
windows, but as the track curves about are seen from either side.
La Compafiia is a very pretty little village, where there is horse-car connection on
the left for Tlalmanalco, and on the right along a shaded roadway to Chalco, a city
on the border of that lake, whose towers and domes can be seen for some distance as
the train moves southward. Next is the village of Cuatlenchan, on a hill on the left
side ; the church on the top of the hill is seen up and down the road for several
miles. Amecameca is the stopping place for the pilgrims bound for the craters of Popo-
catapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. The train rounds the hill and stops right at the base of
Sacro Monte (the sacred mountain), one of the most picturesque shrines in all Mexico.
Look from the windows on the right, or while the train waits step on the platform
for a good view of the stone stairway,' almost hidden by a dense grove of trees.
The city lies spread out on a plain on the left of the track. Tourists who have no
time for a longer stay, or do not continue to the end of the road, may leave Mexico on
the morning train, have a few hours at Amecameca and return in the afternoon. The
view from the Sacro Monte is superbly magnificent. No nearer view of the volcanoes

91

MI. A ICO.

is obtainable unless the ascent is made, which requires three days' time- and ia
attended with much discomfort ; but the adventure of the ascent, and the seeing
of the grandest view of the world from a height of nearly 18,000 feet, is worth any
amount of fatigue. The first day of the ascent is taken by the ride on horseback
from Amecameca to the rancho of the owner of the mountain and its sulphur indus
try, where the night is spent. The second day is used by the ride to the snow line
and the walk to the crater, the going down by bucket and windlass into the crater,
and the return to the rancho, where the second night is spent, and the descent to
Amecameca and return to Mexico may be accomplished on the third day. Permis
sion from the owner of the mountain should be obtained in Mexico City, where
should also be obtained a plentiful supply for the wants of the inner man, and warm
wraps, mittens, etc. The cost of the ascent is about twenty-five dollars each for a
party, or more, if only one or two.
If the stay at Amecameca is only a few hours the Sacro Monte will take up the
time. Here has been the scene of some weirdly novel religious ceremonies. There
is in the shrine of the Sacro Monte an image of Christ in the sepulchre ; it is life
size, made of some very light material, so that its weight is not more than three or

Native Residence in the Hot Country.
four pounds ; the material must be as durable as it is light, since it is known to have
been here more than three hundred and forty years, and tradition says longer. There
is a great pilgrimage to the shrine during Lent. The commencement of the feast,
not a fast, is on Ash Wednesday, when the image is carried in procession to the
parish church, where it remains till Good Friday, and then, with greater pomp,
is earned back to the shrine, e - r *-»

AMECAMECA TO YAUTEPEC. 95
There is a good hotel at Amecameca, good wine, good beer, good pulque and a
clever host. ^,
Leaving the town the railway passes through one of the streets of the town and
crosses the stone causeway which was built for the pilgrim processions, between the
church and the shrine.
At Ozumba there is time for dinner, or rather breakfast, and an excellent meal is
served. At a point a few miles south of the station the highest elevation of the road
is reached, there having been a continuous climb from the plain of Mexico, and the
down grade to the hot country is commenced, and without an engine the train would
roll to Cuautla, would roll too fast, so the engine is retained to hold it in check.
From the station at Nepantla there is a magnificent view from the left windows,
a view taking in millions of acres of the hot lands to the mountains, a hundred miles
beyond. For miles and miles, as the train rolls down the hills, may be seen first from
one side and then the other the dome and tower of a church. The same church may
be seen for two hours ; it is the church of San Miguel, at Atlatlahutla, and near it
an abandoned monastery. Here again the tourist finds another feature of Mexico's
scenery and people, totally different from all the other travels in the republic. The
houses are adobe as to walls and thatched as to roof ; the broad plains have curious
trees ; bands of Indians troop from one town to another in curious costumes, march
ing along totally oblivious to the passing locomotive and approaching civilization,
and will not give way to the latter any quicker than they will to the engine if they
happen to be on the track when it comes along. Fact, it is hard for them to under
stand that the train cannot " keep to the right" when it meets people in the road,
and they claim the right of way from the fact that they were there first.
Now the sugar country is reached and the train passes through a fine hacienda
and backs into Cuautla on a Y ; passing and crossing an aqueduct, where the natives
are seen bathing and washing clothes, comes to a station that was once a church.
The train stops some minutes at Cuautla and there is time for a walk through the
little alameda, just outside of the station, where there are pretty trees and flowers,
a hotel where there are good wines, coffee and lunches to be had.
As the approach to the station has been through a grove of tropical trees and
gardens, so is its departure, and continues southward through the cane country to
Yautepec ; the distant mountains enrich the scene, making a blue background to a
lovely tropical picture.
At Yautepec the American feels that he is indeed away from home. Once away
from the railway station and out of sight of the locomotive there is nothing whatever
to remind him of his own country or of an advanced stage of civilization. ,It is a
picturesque little town on a rambling stream, whose rocky bed is almost dry except in
the rainy season, when there is too much water as there was too little before, and it
rushes along to the imminent danger of the town. The plaza and alameda are one ;
it is beautifully shaded and is filled with bright flowers ; the fountain in the centre
flows pure water and the people flock here with jars and jugs for their supply. In
the evening there is music and the entire populace turns out to hear it. The sight is
a novel one. The band is on the stand under the trees ; the better class promenade the
walks in never-ending procession, while others are seated on the stone benches or
squat on the ground, the bright-hued serapes and rebosos giving high color to the
scene ; the market women sit upon the ground surrounded by their wares, little piles
of beans, peppers, chili, etc. ; the flickering rushlights only seem to show how quaint
the picture is. On another side is a long table, about which are gathered old men
and women, young men and maidens, children and babies, playing at a game of
chance, the whole altogether the most novel scene of my travels.
In going to the hotel it will be necessary to have some one point out " El Gran

90

MEXICO.

Central," otherwise the identity of that hotel would never be detected, neither would
the hotel ever be accused of being a " Grand Central " anywhere but at Yautepec. It
is not the building that is "grand central," but the welcome, from an old Indian
woman with a wrinkled but kindly face. The clean beds, linen, etc., are all " grand
central," and there can be no regrets for staying there. The fonda next door fur
nishes a good meal at reasonable prices.
After Yautepec, continue on to the terminus or turn back to the city by rail, or
ride five hours on horseback through the sugar lands to Cuernavaca, where there
are antiquities, some pretty gardens and caves ;
thence by diligence to the city, the route
shows some fine scenery.
THE IBOLO DIVISION
of the Interoceanic road extends
from the City of Mexico to Jalapa,
and before this edition is ex
hausted will be completed to
Vera Cruz.
Trains start from San Lazaro
station and run over the same
track as the Morelos trains as
far as Los Eeyes, where it
turns eastward and passes
the town o L a Magdalena,
seen from the left side of
the cars, going on through
a country of churches,
some near, some far off,
and comes to Chapingo,
the gorgeous hacienda of
Ex-President Gonzalez, on
the left, and then to Tex
coco, a city older than old !P ~~fc* ->^* Miexico, and the ancient seat
of learning and civilization &~ — the Mexican Athens and
Borne combined, and the home of a race of Indian
kings, as also of Cortes, and for a while the resting-place of his bones. There is
much at Texcoco to interest the antiquarian tourist. Two miles and a half east of
the town is Tetzcotzinco, " the laughing hill," once a favorite resort of Netzohual-
coyotl, an ancient Aztec chief, where there are ruins of fountains, terraced walks,
baths cut in stone. The water supply for the baths and gardens was brought from
the hills, ten miles away, by a stone aqueduct, which has" not altogether disap
peared. See the gardens and the cascades of Molino de Flores, and the great idol,
Xicaca, " goddess of waters." A nearly perfect figure, about twenty feet long by
four across, and in a fair state of preservation, it lies prostrate near Cuatlenchan,
about six miles from Texcoco.
I have been to Molino de Flores, the beautiful "mill of the flowers" and my
memory serves me now for pretty dreams.
"Gracias, sefior, con mucho gusto."
Thus I nearly exhausted my entire vocabulary of Spanish in accepting an invita
tion to join a party for a Sunday excursion around Lake Texeoco to Texcoco on the
Irolo Bailway and spend the day at Molino de Flores.
I had heard of Molino de Flores, and a guide book hint places it as the destination

MOLINO DE FLORES.

97

of a pleasant excursion, and the estate of an old Spanish fam.ly, by name Cervantes,
one of the oldest, one of the noblest descendants from the Grandees of old Spain.
At nine-thirty the train pulled out from San Lazaro station and in an hour we
were at Texcoco, where diligences awaited the party, and in half an hour the mules
galloped over the leagues to Molino de Flores— the mill of flowers, as it i ; prosaici lly

A Bust Street.
translated. Let the American reader disabuse his mind of a flour mill, or anything
of a barn-like structure with dusty sides and roof, and dustier interior that may be
remembered of the mills at home. Heavy gates open through stone whUs and admit
the diligences to what seems the court-yard of a mediaeval castle. Tortuous stone
stairways lead to the castle, up the rugged sides of a hill to the summer-house of
the family Cervantes. Our party alighted at the foot of the stairs, but not to ascend
them ; passed through another gate and around the mill, itself of stone, and seem
ing a part of the castle. That gate opened to a garden that might have been a part
of Eden. I crossed a bridge and walked along a swift running stream, on whose borders,
on this December day, grew and bloomed calla lilies, violets and roses ; tall acacias
made a grateful shade, diverting the rays of almost a summer sun. An owl sat in
the hollow of a tree as if to hoot at intruding mortals in this garden of the fairies,
and hideous idols, from their pedestals, scowled in unison at the intrusion. Only-
the murmurs of splashing cascades and twittering birds broke the silence that fell.
All words were lost in admiration. While I stood and wondered soft music came
floating through the intertwining trees. The melody came, I did not know from
where. It was an air of lordly Spain, where the softer notes of the guitar came

98 MEXICO,
creeping through the. ferns, a mellow tenor floated over the roses, and a deeper basso
rolled on the violet beds. I lingered and listened till the last sweet note died away,
and walked on, beside the noisy waters, and came to a grotto hollowed by Nature's
hand, and shadowed by overhanging boughs, where flowering vines had climbed and
from the rocks above some prickly cactus hung, as if to do guard duty against
approach that way. A pool of clear, sparkling water was in the grotto's basin. Here
might have been the home of some queen of the water nymphs, where, sporting with
the maidens of her court, shut in by flowery screens and waving ferns, might bathe
unseen. It might have been all this, but it is the Cervantes bath. I sat here under
a bower of fuchsias ; some great white bell-shaped flowers hung above me and filled
the air with soft perfume. I sat and dreamed — unconsciously looking at the em-
bo wered grotto — really, I was not waiting to see if the water nymphs might come
back. I was in no hurry. I just waited, that's all.
I walked on, and came to a turn in the path. Across the ravine I saw the family
chapel. Some Moorish work around a cavern made the shrine. Two sides were
Nature's own handiwork ; human hands had only added a little belfry and the bells.
In the chapel lie the departed Cervantes, in tombs of solid stone, and in the un
hewn walls are tablets showing the family crest and dates of its history. Before
the quaint little altar dimly burns a lamp that is never extinguished, throwing an
uncertain light on the faded painting of the crucifixion on the rock behind it. I
liked not these as well as the scenes in fairyland across the stream, and I turned to
the bridge again. One more look : almost hidden, I saw the window that lights the
cell of the hermit padre whose chapel this is.
Looking down the rocky ravine that lies between the church and the garden, the
walls, that might serve a fortress well, and the cliffs, seemed one mass of creeping
vines that lent much color to the picture, in pleasing contrast with the gray of the
rocks below ; and the white of the foaming waters seemed softened by a tinge of
reflected color.
I had noticed the stairways that led from this path beside the stream, up the
steep hillside, steps paved with pebbles. On the landings are letters in colored
pebbles directing to some bower or other path. At the top I came to a level -place
where the greenest grass made the carpet, bordered in blue and white with violets
and daisies. On a little mound a thatch-roofed pagoda is almost hidden by the
roses. I wonder if in the long ago this was the trysting place of some Aztec Claude
Melnotte. Perhaps under these very trees he and his doting Pauline sat and picked
out the stars that should be their home. But could it be a brighter one than this ?
While I pondered thus I was sent for. Dinner was ready. A table was set under
the trees, all bright with snowy linen and glittering silver, and the bounteous ban
quet that was served made my return to earth not disappointing. I forgot the cascades .
and the birds. Clinking glasses and popping corks make a man forget much.
I found where the music came from. While we ate, a native orchestra discoursed
the melodies of the country. I could catch glimpses of the white costumes of the
players and the red zerape of the leader as the broad leaves that hid them swayed in
the breeze. It was a merry party around that table — dark-eyed senoritas, beaming
senoras, that must make the fairies envy if they came back to-day. Gallant cabaUeros
attended, and no minute was lost if a duenna looked the other way. For hours the
viands came to the board, were discussed and sent away, till the dulces sweetened
and the helados cooled the appetite. ^
Now the tables were in the way, but not long : they disappeared and the banquet
hall was turned to Terpsichore. Tripping feet kept time to livelier music, gleam
ing eyes looked up to eyes that spake again, and reflected the glittering silver on the
under side of a broad sombrero.

TEXCOCO AND CALPULAPAM.

99

The night after, 1 slept in the erstwhile palace of the Iturbides, and in my sleep
visions of beautiful flowers lingered in my dreams. I sat under the trees again ; my
friends had all gone — the sweet odor of the bell-flowers came back to me. It seemed
that I was back at the grotto, but before the water nymphs came, I awoke.
After leaving Texcoco the road runs very near and in sight of a great aqueduct,
which is nearly 40 miles long and has arches nearly a hundred feet high, built three
hundred years ago. Now the road passes between the mountains and the eastern
shore of the lake and comes to Irolo, and enters the borders of the pulque region and
connects there with trains for Pachuca, pending the completion of a branch lino to

An Old Bridge.

that city, the capital of the State of Hidalgo and the centie of a rich mining district,
probably among the tichest in the world, the output being told in millions by the
most fabulous figures. The Interoceanic has more points of interest to the tourist
than any line leading out from the capital. As has been stated, the Morelos road
leads down past the volcanoes, and the Irolo road, now the Eastern or Vera Cruz di
vision, circles the lakes of the plain of Mexico, passes the Pyramids of the Sun and
Moon, to be seen from the windows on the left, across the plain in the distance. The
line now enters the plain of Apam, famous for the growth of the maguey plant— the
American aloe — closely resembling and sometimes called the century plant, from-
which pulque, the national beverage, is made, as written of elsewhere.
At Calpulapam there is a branch road to Soledad. The road now runs along the
eastern slope of the range of mountains of which the great volcanoes are the high
est, and their snow-covered peaks may be seen for many miles. At Los Arcos
another branch leaves the main line, and, running in a southwesterly direction, will

100

MEXICO.

ultimately connect with the Morelos division and greatly shorten the distance across
the continent.
Aft^r crossing the Atoyac the line comes to Puebla, on the main line and one ol
the greatest cities of Mexico, and there is much to see. The Cathedral, with ite
towers and domes of many-colored tile3 and interior adornings of onyx and fine
paintings, the various chapels which commemorate the miracie3 that are so plentiful
in their legendary history, are to ba visited — the Hall of Bishops and the old tapes
tries and portraits, then the plazas, portales and the paseos, all rich in attractions.
But chief of all is the Pyramid of Cholula, reached by a horse-car ride of seven
miles. The pyramid is over 200 feet in height. On its crest was once a temple dedi-
catsd to Quetzalcoatl, "God of ths Air," but now there is a church on the spot. A '
paved road winds up the sides of the pyramid, and the view that grows as the climb
is made is a grand one — far off the hills and volcanoes, a little nearer the spreading
plains, at the base the village of Cholula, and the city of Puebla over there.
Leaving Puebla, the road traverses a rich agricultural country, crossing the
Mexican Bailroad at San Marcos, and at Vireyes there is a branch road, to San Juan.
Now running northeasterly, the line is finished to Perote, but before this edition is
exhausted will reach Jalapa, or eVen Vera Cruz, ending a journey which offers a great
variety of attraction from the snow-capped volcanoes to the cane and coffee trees of
the tierra caliente. <

THE MEXICAN RAILWAY
'HE name of the line doe3 not indicate its route any more than those of any
of the other railways of the Bepublic, all using some title of a national
•character rather than of destination or direction. The Mexican Eailway
loads from the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz, with a descending grade in 263
miles of from 7,319 feet above the sea at Buena Vista station, in the City of Mexico,
to its level at Vera Cruz — not a coatinuous descending grade, but that is the dif
ference in the altitude of the termini.
At one point on the line at Ococotlan the altitude reaches a height of more than
8,300 feet ; the greater percentage' of the descent is made in a distance of 20 miles,
between Boca del Monte and Maltrata, and the scenery of this 2J miles is the chief
object of the ride itself.
Trains leave the City of Mexico in the early morning and reach Vera Cruz just
after dark, affording a daylight ride that will show the varied scenery of Mexico,
from the volcanoes and high tablelands down to the hot country by the sea.
For the first hundred and fifty miles of the journey it will make no difference on
which side of the car a seat is taken ; but for the scenery down the mountain, from
Boca del Monte to Maltrata, the seat must be on the right side, and for general results
a seat on that side should be chosen. Leaving the City of Mexico, the road runs due
north three miles, along siie of the causeway to the village and church of Guadaloupe
— the holiest shrine in all Mexico. Along the causeway to be seen from the right-
hand windows are shrines and archways dedicated to the saints, and here the devotees
stopped to pray and processions marched by, from Mexico to Guadaloupe ; this
passed, the village and church are to be seen from the other side of the cars. Still,
on the right the view shows Lake Texcoco, the city, and the volcanoes of Popoca-
.tapetl and Ixtaccihuatl, which are hardly out of sight all day. An hour after leaving
the city look for the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon on the left of the track ; a low
Line of earthwork causeway connects the two. Seen from the cars the pyramids do
not appear very majestic, but in reality their proportions are quite ambitious, being
210 and 150 feet high respectively. An entrance to the pyramid of the Moon has
been effected, the interior explored and some very interesting prehistoric relics
discovered indicating their building by a race of peopV older than the Toltecs.
From a scenic point of view this journey will prove a success, but during the
first hours of it one will carp at the dust and dirt. Let no traveler come to Mexico
without a duster, and let him take it on the trip to Vera Cruz.
Fifty miles from the city are the plains of Apam, the great pulque district. For
miles on either side, as far as the eye can reach, the long rows of maguey plants
show where the national beverage comes from. The collecting of the crude pulque is
novel and interesting. When the maguey or century plant is about to bloom it sends
up a shoot fifteen or twenty feet high. When this shoot appears it is cut out and
the sap that would go into this stalk and blo:>m collects in the centre of the plant.
This is the crude pulque. Each day, until the life of the plant is exhausted, an
Indian and a burro, with hog-skin bags on their backs, visit each plant. The Indian
with a long-handled gourd, a small hole pierced in each end, draws the sap from the
plant, empties it from the gourd to the hog-skin, and from the hog-skin to the cask
on the cart at the end of the row. After a process of fermentation this sap becomes
pulque and must be sent to market at onse. Pulque will not keep. Knowing this,.

102

MEXICO.

perhaps, the Mexican, not liking to see a good thing wasted, proceeds to drink it
energetically, and desists not till his last tlaco has vanished.
No matter whether you have experimented with p'dque elsewhere or not — get a
glass at Apam, or rather a mug — it is peddled at the station in earthen mugs, by In
dians of all sizes, colors and conditions ; but the pulque is good. Mescal and tequila
are drinks of a stronger nature, like rum, both made from a species of the maguey.
The pulqne business is of
such proportions that spe
cial trains are required to
deliver it fresh in the shops
of the city ; the pulque
trains leave the plain early
in the morning and arrive
in the city by four o'clock,
so that the supply is fresh
every day.
At Apizaco there is a
branch line to Puebla, one
of the oldest cities of
Mexico, requiring a visit of
some days. There is a
good restaurant at the sta
tion at Apizaco ; the train
stops long enough for cof
fee, pulque or to buy a cane
or basket from the Pueblo
Indians. As an evidence of civi
lization, at least from the
peddler point of view, he
(the peddler) is assiduous in
the effort to dispose of his
wares as is his American
brother who comes to the
cars to ply his vocation,
and is fully his equal in
driving a bargain, and as
unscrupulous as to the
quality of the goods : the
cane may or may not be of
coffee wood — you buy at
your own risk. The pulque is good, as pulque goes. If you like it, I do, and fresh
withal ; the plains of Apam are near by ; the baskets are pretty and handmade,
presumably by Indian handmaidens. What more can you ask ?
At Esperanza the train stops for breakfast ; call it dinner if you will, as it has
reached about one o'clock, and it is indeed worth waiting for ; everything is good,
and this above all railway eating-houses must not be missed.
Esperanza is a great shipping point for cereals, ores and other products of the
country, brought here on burros to be forwarded on the cars ; about the station
the burros stand lazily waiting to unload or start on the return trip. '
After a good meal take a seat on the right ; prepare to see the finest piece of
scenery and railway engineering in the country. The locomotive which has pulled

In the Coffee Field.

APAM TO ORIZABA.

103

the train thus far is detached, and the monster Fairlie engine is placed in front of
the train.
A Fdirlie engine is in reality two locomotives in one — heading both ways, with
two smoke-stacks, two head lights, one on each end of one long boiler, with the cab
in the centre, over the fire-box ; besides being so powerful that they can pull a train
up the steep grades, they can hold the cars back while going down, and this latter is
a principal duty, as they would run over an ordinary locomotive, as not heavy
enough even with wheels working backward to resist the force of the rolling cars.
Air and steam brakes are not trust
ed on this grade ; there is a man at
each brake ^vheel on each car. The
train leaves Esperanza, and in a few
minutes comes to Boca del Monte,
where the down grade commences,
at a height of 7,849 feet above the
sea, and. rolls to Maltrata, a point
only 5,544 feet, making a descent of
2,305 feet, and taking sixteen miles
of track to reach a point immedi
ately below and in sight all the
time ; that little patch of tiled roofs
and church with its dome of red,
way down in the valley, is Maltrata.
It must be a fair day when this
journey is made, or the tourist will
find his train above the clouds, and
nothing can be seen. An idea may
be formed of the windings of the
road to get down the mountain
when it is told that the Indians
selling fruits and flowers at ,,-•"!
the little station about half- *5Sfl^
way down, will leave by the ';•;(#*¦
path down the canon, and .,,,:,:
reach Maltrata before the $"!¦/-:
train does, in time for another I
sale. """"
The scenery is beyond all description, the trip must be made, and will never be
regretted or forgotten.
From Maltrata the road follows the Eio Blanco through the valley of La Joya,
the jewel, and comes to Orizaba, a city of 20,000 people, lying in a lovely valley, a
town quaintly picturesque, and just on the border of the hot country, where a stop
must be made. The hotels are good, and there is much to see ; the old churches,
the plaza, the alameda with its tropical flowers, the waterfalls in the neighborhood,
and all the great natural beauty of the place and surrounding country. The machine
shops of the railway company are located at Orizaba. On the left, overlooking the
city, is the hill where a sharp battle was fought between the French and Mexicans,
and the cross erected there is to the memory of the fallen soldiers.
Leaving Orizaba the scenery continues grandly beautiful. The track lies on the
mountain side, winds in and out in sharp curves, through tunnels, over bridges and
along ledges where the canons are hundreds of feet deep, and coming to the Metlac
gorge, crosses it on a curved bridge, which may be seen, and the track on the other

Water Works.

104

MEXICQ

side of the gorge, for some minutes before, from the right-hand windows, and far be
low the track is a foaming torrent rushing down the barranca under the arches of an
old stone bridge of the public highway.
There must not be a moment lost now ! Keep to the point of observation all the
time — watch the mountain and the valley, see this cascade and that tumbling
and roaring over the rocks, showing like liquid silver amongst the green of the
shadowing trees.
Now the scenery is different entirely from all before traveled through. The
adobe house gives place to
those of thatched sides and
roofs. The barren hills
have melted away to orange
groves and gardens of bana
nas with soffee trees almost
brushing the car windows.
There are green forests
with trees and vines hang
ing with flowers ; great
trees with yellow flowers,
whose golden beauty would
be worth thousands if they
could be imported to some
city of ours. Such scenes
are on either side for some
miles toward Vera Cruz.
At Cordoba may be
bought the very finest fruits
of all tropical varieties —
oranges, lemons, pine
apples, bananas, mangoes,
fresh from the trees and
plants, brought to the train
by the cleanest, fattest,
sleekest Indians imagin
able, old men and women,
young men and maidens,
all with something to sell
and a few to beg.
Cordoba seems to be the
gateway of this route to
the hot lands. The lus
cious fruits offered at the
station and the light and
airy costumes of the natives indicate this.. Here the tropic Mexican appears in all
his picturesqueness as he is seen in pictures — wide of trouser and broad of straw
sombrero, and brightly colored costume of woman's dress.
After Cordoba the road continues through a pretty section, crosses the Atoyac
river and passes within sight of the cascade, a very pretty one with its tropical
surroundings. Now the road passes through the cane fields, coffee plantations,
orange groves, and gardens of mangoes, pineapples and bananas, and comes to Sole
dad, from whence the ride to Vera Cruz is unattractive ; but that city is an object of
interest to every tourist and a stay of some days can be very pleasantly made, during

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CORDOBA AND JALAPA.

105

which a trip to Jalapa should be made over the Jaiapa Bailway, which is a branch of
the Mexican Bailway from Tejeria, a few miles from Vera Cruz, on the main line.
The motive power is mules — four to each car, with relays every two hours. The
distance is 70 miles, and
the ascent from Vera Cruz
to Jalapa is over 4,000 feet-
The animals are driven at
a rapid pace, so that the
journey is made in a day
and the return in the same
time, or perhaps a little
less, as the mules go at a
gallop on the down trip.
The route is along the old
highway from Vera Cruz
to the City of Mexico, and,
about 36 miles from Vera
Cruz, crosses the old Na
tional Bridge. The battle
field of Cerro Gordo, and a
hacienda that once was
General Santa Ana's, are
objects of interest to be
seen from the cars. Not a
mile of the road but is rich
in scenic beauty, and the
ride is well worth the time .
Arrival is at 4 p. m., and
there is time for a walk
through the old town be
fore nightfall ; but at least a
day should be spent there,
there is much to be seen in
and around the town. The
houses are built in the old
Spanish style with barred
windows and casements.
The streets are irregular,
running up and down the
steep hillsides, with crooks
and turns. If Mexico has
seemed old it seems to
have aged in Jalapa, or, all
the rest of it is younger.
The place is surpassingly
clean ; lying as it does on
the hillsides of Macuilte-
pec, every rain washes
them thoroughly. Back of the city is the white Cofre de Perote, resembling an im
mense chest or box, which gives name to the mountain. Jalapa is famed for its
beautiful women, anrl the proverb "Las Jidapenns son halaquinas," truthfully ap
plies. Bewitchiner. alluring are the women of Jalapa, is the meaning, but not its

Las JalapbSas son Hahouinas.

106 MEXICO.
literal translation. The truth of the saying can be vouched for by many a beauty-
loving Americano, as well as the legend that the place is a part of heaven let down to
earth. Horse-cars run to Coatepec, six miles away, fare one real a trip, well worth
the ride. The view is remarkably fine, showing snow-capped mountains, low lands,
and, far away in the dim distance, the sea.
Back again by the mule railway to Tejeria and thence to Vera Cruz by steam
cars makes another pleasant day, to which two or three may be added in wanderings
about under the palms of the Almeda, sailing to the forts and islands in the bay,
listening to the music in the evening on the plaza while you dine, and one is ready
to journey back over this wonderful railway to Apizaco and take the branch to
Puebla de los Angeles.
As soon as the train leaves the station at Apizaco the beauties of the ride begin.
Churches, dome-shaped granaries, fantastically shaped hay or straw mows cut as
with a knife into churches and crosses, old mills and aqueducts, mountains far away
and near by, with cities and villages in between till the ride seems all too short.
After passing Panzacola the Pyramid of Cholula is seen on the right, with a church
for its crest.
, After this the City of Puebla, lying over against the mountains, comes to the view
— the fort of Loreto on the left and Guadaloupe on the right on the hills just out
side the city.
Puebla has been a city long enough to possess all metropolitan advantages,
and is not behind the average Mexican city ; horse-cars lead to all parts of the
city and to the surrounding villages, making it quite a railway centre. It is a city of
100,000 people, located 7,100 feet above the sea level, is an important manufac
turing and mercantile point, and besides is a very beautiful place with its streets
wider than the average and many of £he houses decorated with glazed tiles. The
twin volcanoes arenearer to Puebla than they are to the City of Mexico, and the
view much finer.
It is a saying in Mexico, when speaking of a spendthrift, " He will never build a
house of tiles. " If houses of tiles are an evidence of thrift, Puebla should be noted,
not for spendthrifts but for its successful financiers ; tiles are used everywhere.
Puebla onyx, baskets and mats of colored straw, tiles, pottery and clay figures,
are among the things to buy and take home. There is much to interest, and the
sojourn, rather than be missed, should extend over several days, as a hurried visit
would leave undone one of the features of a tour of Mexico.

RAILWAY TRAVEL IN MEXICO.
§1V1LIZATI0N came to Mexico from the North. Historians aver that the
temple and pyramid builders came thence. Then followed in their track the
railway builder to connect the United States of America with los Estados
Unidos de Mejico ; and if the mooted "backbone " line to traverse the conti
nent from Alaska to Terra del Fuego is ever built, the Mexican Central would be the
middle division, and it would be the pioneer line, as it is the pioneer line of Mexico
from the United States.
The main line runs from El Paso, Texas, to the City of Mexico, following the
ridge of the continent at a varying altitude to render the course of travel pleasant
at all seasons.
At Torreon, near the city of Lerdo, the connection of the Mexican International
Bailroad is made, receiving through business in through trains from the United
States by way of Eagle Pass, Spofford and San Antonio.
At Venandita the Monterey and Gulf Eailway will cross the International.
At Aguas Calientes there is a Line extending to the city of San Luis Potosi and
to the Gulf of Mexico at Tampico.
At Silao the branch road connects for the great mining town of Guanajuato.
At Irapuato a line extends to that grand and ancient city of Guadalajara, with an
ultimate destination on the Pacific coast at San Bias, making a transcontinental lino
involving still shorter voyages on both oceans.
The Mexican Central crosses the Mexican National at Celaya.
At the City of Mexico, the southern terminus, the Mexican Central connects with
the Mexican Bailway for Puebla, Esperanza, Orizaba, Vera Cruz and Jalapa, with
the Interoceanic Bailroad for Amecameca, Cuautla, Yautepec, Texcoco, Puebla,
Jalapa and Vera Cruz, and under construction to Acapulco on the Pacific.
The second through line completed from the United States to Mexico, was that
of the Mexican National Bailroad from Laredo to the City of Mexico as a main line,
and the shortest one between the cities of the two countries. It runs through a
country rich in scenic interest, and passes some of the most thriving and attractive
cities in Mexico.
At Monterey connection is made with the Monterey and Gulf Bailway, extending
now (January, 1890), to Linares, and being extended south to Tampico and north to
Chihuahua. At San Luis Potosi, the main line crosses the Gulf division of the Mexican Cen
tral for Tampico, on the east, and A.guas Calientes and interior cities on the west.
At Celaya the Mexican National crosses the Mexican Central.
At Acambaro the main line connects with the western division of the National
for Morelia and Patzcuaro, to be extended to the Pacific Coast at Manzanillo.
At the City of Mexico the National has a branch to El Salto and Tlalnepantla,
and a Belt Line around the city as well as a line of street railway in the city. Con
nections are made with the Interoceanic Eailway for Amecameca, Yautepec, Cuautla,
Puebla, Jalapa and Vera Cruz ; and with the Mexican Eailway for Puebla, Esperan
za, Orizaba, Cordoba, Vera Cruz and Jalapa.
Excursion tickets are on sale at all important ticket offices in the United States
and Canada to the City of Mexico and principal cities of the Eepublic at low rates
of fare for the round trip, good to return six months from date of sale.

108

MEXICO.

Stop-over checks are issued by conductors at any point where it -jay be desired.
'California excursionists may stop off at San Antonio, Laredo, Eagle Pass or El Paso,
and on presentation of their California coupons, purchase a ticket for a tour into
Mexico at greatly reduced rates, enabling them to add Mexico to the tour, and in
crease its attractions and pleasures.
The trains of the Mexican National, Mexican International and Mexican Central
have Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars on all through expresb trains, and all trains fun
solid from the border to the City of Mexico, making a perfect service involving but
one change of cars from the principal cities of the United States to those of Mexico.
The management of the railways exercise a supervision over all restaurants and
eating-houses, and trains stop for meals at reasonable hours.
The baggage regulations are the same as in the United States ; to the holders, of
through or excursion tickets issued in the United States, viz., one hundred and
fifty pounds on each full first-class ticket, and seventy -five pounds on half tickets ;
the age for half tickets is between five and twelve years, under five years, free ;
on local, or tickets purchased in Mexico, thirty-three pounds is the limit of baggage
carried free.
In short, all the facilities, all the comforts, all the luxuries to which the American
traveler is accustomed on the home roads, are to be found on the railways of Mexico,
to which, for the novelty and pleasure of the journey, add all that Mexico offers in the
scenic and antiquity point of view, as hinted at in the preceding pages.

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SUBURBS OF THE CITY OF MEXICO.

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HAIL Y Q TRAINS
Equipped with
Through Pullman Buffet Sleeping Cars
To All Principal Points in
ARKANSAS and TEXAS,
and to THE RIO GRANDE.

Only One Change of Cars
ST. LOUIS to the CITY OF MEXICO,
Via Laredo, Eagle Pass or El Paso,
and
ST. LOUIS to CALIFORNIA via El Paso.

Missouri ^Pacific ^Railway
THE GREAT THROUGH ROUTE

-Fiao^c-

-COVEKIJVO-

MISSOURI,

KiLJSTSiLS,

Nebraska,

COLORADO,

USTOIAJST TERRITORY,
UTAH and all
ROCKY MOTJISTXAIISr
and. CAXIFORISriiL POINTS.
Through Pullman Buffet Sleeping Cars.

VALUABLE ASSISTANCE.

The following Traveling and Passenger Agents of the MISSOURI
PACIFIC RAILWAY are constantly looking after the interests
• of the Line, and will call upon parties contemplating a trip,
and cheerfully furnish them lowest Rates of Fare, Maps,
Guides, Time Tables, etc.
Or they may be addressed as follows :
ATCHISON, KAN  c- E. STYLES, Passenger and Ticket Agent
BOSTON, MASS.  G. K.DELAIIAXTY, New England Pacs'r Agent, 300 Washington Street
CAIRO, ILL.  J- w- MASON, Passenger Agent
CHATTANOOGA, TENS.  A. A. GALLACHER, Southern Pass'r Agt, 103 Read House
CHICAGO, ILL. • • • JOHN E. ENNIS, District Tars'r and Land Agent, 199 S. Clark Street
CINCINNATI, OHIO  N. E. WAEWICK, District Pass'r Agent, 131 Vine Street
DENVER, COLO.  p J. FLYNN, General Western Freight and Pass'r Agent
" "   C. E. HOOPER, Traveling Passenger Agent
INDIANAPOLIS, IND  COKE ALEXANDER, District Tass'r Agent, 7 Jackson Place
JACKSON, MICH.  II. D. ARMSTRONG, Traveling Passenger Agent
KAN SAS CITY, MO.  J. H. LYON, Western Pass'r Agent, 583 Main Street
" "  E.S. JEWETT, Pass'r and Ticket Agent, 533 Main Street
"  T. W. CROWE, Pass'r and Ass't Ticket Agent, 1048 Union Avenue
LEAVEN WORTH, KAN  J- N. JOERGER, Passenger and Ticket Agent
LINCOLN, NEB.  R. P. E. MILLAR, General Agent
LITTLE ROCK, ARK.  II. P. BERKLEY, Passenger and Ticket Agent
LOUISVILLE, KY   L. E. DRAKE, Southern Traveling Agent, 308 West Main Street
MEMPHIS, TENN  H. D. WILSON, Pass'r and Ticket Agent, 309 Main Street
NE W YORK CITY,  W. E. HOYT, Gen'l Eastern Pass'r Agent, 391 Broadway
" "  J. P. McCANN, Eastern Traveling Agent, 391 Broadway
OMAHA, NEB.  T  J- O. PHILLIPPI, Ass't Gen'l Freight and Pass'r Agent
" -  THOS. F. GODFREY, Pass'r and Ticket Agt., N. E. cor. 13th & Farnam Streets
 G. E. DOERINGTON, Traveling Pass'r Agent, N. E. cor. 13th & Farnam Streets
PITTSBURG, PA.  S. H. THOMPSON, Central Pass'r Agent, 1119 Liberty Street
ST. JOSEPH, MO.  W. G. WILKINS, Passenger and Ticket' Agent
ST. LOUIS, MO  B. D. CALDWELL, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent
" "  S. W. ELLIOTT, City Ticket Agent, 103 N. Fourth Street
 H. LIHOU, Ticket Agent, Union Depot
 M. GRIFFIN, City Pass'r Agent, 102 N. Fourth Street
" "  W. II. MORTON, Passenger and Emigration Agent, Union Depot
"  J. C. NICHOLAS, General Baggage Agent, Union Depot
WICHITA, KAN  E. E. BLECKLEY, Pa s'r and Ticket Agent, 137 N. Main Street
Z. H.H.CLARK, H. C. TOWNSEKD,
1st Vice-Pres't and Gen'l Mgr. Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent,
ST. LOUIS, MO,

YALE