.~ft'. Yale Center for British Art and British Studies ^m 4-i^^ "^i nf, V-V- EW ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK MLISlilY CiflEBMI T li'E rj LOSE. PBICE SIXPSHCE. s- ]^M- ¦ EDWARl) RQli PMNTI^R & PUBLISllEK, QTJEKN SXjiEiiT. c6 * > * ^* 4.\- ,^r> ^B' ;^&Mp&^^^. NEW ENGLAND HISTORIC, GENEALOGICAL SOCIETY. PeleoBGd .Ri.»«'^^gc;^ /^^ Ls.>r- SOLICITED BY.. .|M«^I The new ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK SALISBURY CATHEDRAL > .THE OLOSE. SALISBURY: EDWAED KOB, PUBLISHER, QUEEN STREET. SALISBURY: ED^S^AED EOE, PEINTEB, QUEEN STBEET. TABLE OP CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. . fAGi The Close of Salisbury-^he Walls— St. Anne's Gate— High Street Gate- Widow's College — The Deanery — The King's House — Diocesan Train ing School — Harnham Gate — Canonical House of the Rev. W. L. Bo-wles — &c 4 CHAPTER II. History of the Cathedral — Transfer from Old Sarum — Foundation — Con secration of Altars — Visits of the King — Interment of William Longspee, Earl of Salisbm'y — Progress of the Structure — Its com pletion and dedication 17 CHAPTER III. The exterior of the Cathedral — Its leading Characteristica — Its general plan and dimensions — The West Eront — North Porch — ^The Tower and Belfiy 36 CHAPTER IV. The Interior of the Cathedral — Origin and Characteristics of Gothic Art — General View of the Interior — The Nave — The Great Transept — The Organ Screen— The Choir— The Lady Chapel— The Monuments 39 CHAPTER V. The Library, containing a copy of the Magna Charta and other Ancient Manuscripts, &c. — The Cloisters — The Chapter House and its Sculp ture — The Burying Ground, &c., &c , , , 49 THE NEW HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. CHAPTEE I. The Close of Salisbury — The walls — St. Anne's Gate — High Street Gate Widows College — The Deanery — The King's House — Diocesan Training School — Harnham Gate — Canonical House of Rev. W. L. Bowles — &c. " See yonder hallowed fane — the pious work Of names once famed, now dubious or forgot, And buried 'midst the wreck of things which were. There lie interred the more illnstrious dead. Blaie. We propose in the following pages to supply in a sucoint form such information regarding the past history and present state of Salisbuky Caihedeal as the stranger would be likely to find acceptable. The numberless beauties and matchless symmetry of this noble effort of Gothic art, wUl unfold themselves as we proceed in our examination : we need not therefore detain the reader by any lengthened observations. The name of Salisbury Cathedral is associated with the earliest readings and teachings of our child hood, not merely in Britain but elsewhere ; and there are few but can remember, on hearing or reading of its renowned spire and perfect style, the yearning desire to be permitted to gaze upon it and examine it for themselves. How many thousands have been pri^vileged by the gratification of this desire : how many thousands of pilgrims, from the date of its foundation to the present day, have come from all parts of the wide world to bow down in wondering admiration before the perfect beauty of 8 THE steangee's handbook to saiisbuey cathbbeai.. this noble edifice, which, as Emerson truly says, "is now esteem ed the culmination of the Gothic art in England." It is a life- memory to have patiently explored and lovingly investigated this "poem in stone;" a possession, a treasure of beauty to be che rished for ever after. One advantage is possessed by Salisbury beyond most other ca thedrals : — it is admirably situated for effect. It is not built in by common-place, lumbering canonical and other houses, as if to show the extremest contrast of good and bad taste, and how closely the two can be brought together. It is completely isolated on all sides, and stands in its own well kept grounds, — the green turf surrounding it, iatersected by gravelled paths. The only objects in close proximity to it, are the Bishop's palace on the south east, and near the west front, a "row of reverend elms " of great height and beauty overshadowing the broad carriage road leading to the western entrance. The level fields, formerly a meadow, with their adornment of trees, form the finest possible setting for so perfect a gem of art ; and the eye is gratified by the simple beauty of the arrangement. The lawn is separated from the public roads of the close by a dwarf stone wall. The residences of the clergy and gentry abut on these roads, and ¦with their pleasure grounds, form a noble en- ceint of handsome, and many of them venerable houses, constitu- ing the parish or Liberty of the Close of Sarum. Its park-like ap pearance has been generally remarked by strangers ; and the very air seems laden with tranquillity and peace. The privileges and liberties of the close have always been most carefully conserved, and guarded from every attempt to in terfere in any way with them . Very early the ide a w as entertained of separating it from the other parts of the city. So far back as 1331 a grant was obtained from Edward the third announcing that he had given to " Robert de Wyvil the Bishop, and to the Dean and Chapter of the Church of the blessed Virgin Mary, at Sarum, all the stone walls of the former cathedral church of Old Sarum, and of the houses which had before belonged to the Bishops and Canons of that church, within his fortress of Old ST. ANNE S sate. 9 Sarum, as his donation, to be employed in the improvement of the church at New Sarum, and the enclosure pertaining to the same.* From these materials the present walls were erected ; they have well stood the test of time, and are apparently as solid and sub stantial now as ever they were. There is evidence in several places that they were constructed of the materials of the old ca thedral ; particularly in that portion of the wall adjoining the east or St. Anne's gate, where may still be seen traces of sculptures and Norman mouldings on many of the stones. There are three gates, — the east, the north, and a smaller one, probably a postern-gate, on the south. The eastern, or St. Anne's gateway is a simple pointed arch ha'ving a room over it in which until lately were modern win dows, not at all harmonizing with the structure. These have now been replaced by others of suitable style, the work of our townsman Mr. Osmond, stonemason to the Dean and Chapter, who in this as in all things entrusted to him has displayed great taste and judgement. This room was at one time used as an Assembly room by James Harris, the father of the first Lord Malmesbury, and a distinguished literary character, whose man sion adjoined the gate just within the close. Concerts, assemblies, and sometimes theatrical representations were here given, presided over by the exquisite taste of Mr. Harris ; and these in accord ance with the habits of our ancestors were given at an early hour, and terminated if not at curfew, at least soon afterwards. The northern, or High street gate is the most beautiful of the three gates of the close. It is situated in a direct line to Old Sarum, and was probably erected first in order of time ; but the structure being far more elaborate than the others, would seem to indicate a later date. The arch is pointed ; the spandrils and quatrefoils are richly decorated. Above on the north side are the arms of England in the reign of Charles the second. On the other side of the gate is a niche occupied by a clumsy figure intended, it is said, to represent Charles the second, but far * Hatcher's History of Salisbury. 10 THE STEANOEr's HANDBOOK TO SALISBITET CATHEDEAI. more like James the first. It is attributed to Humphry Beckham, who was a native genius in work and stone carving, and has left behind him a curious piece of carved wood which adorns the west end of St. Thomas's Church, and forms his own monumental tab- ' let. It is cut out of one block of oak and represents several passages in Patriarchal history. At the bottom is the following inscription, "Here under lyeth the body of Humphry Beckham ¦who died the second day of February, 1671. Aged 83. His own worke." At one of James's visits to Salisbury, he was ob served to mingle with the crowd, and taking little interest in the pageant, fixed his gaze intently on the person of the king, appa rently taking a mental portrait to be reproduced hereafter. The statue which occupies the niche above the arch on the south side of the gate is believed to have been the result. This gate, as ¦well as the eastern gate, has a room over it, to which access is gained by a small door and winding stairs within the gateway, forming a porter's lodge. Nearly adjoining this gate is the Widow's College; an estab lishment founded by Seth Ward, Bishop of Salisbury, in 1682, for the maintenance of ten widows of clergymen of the established Church'. An addition of 2000 guineas was made to the funds of the college by the bequest of William Benson Earle, Esq. in 1790. The original endowment was more than £200 a year from lands in the neighbourhood. The building consists of a centre and two projecting wings. Over the gate is inscribed Col legium hoc Matronarum. Do. Oo. Mo. Humilime Dedicavit Sethus Episcopus Sarum. Anno Domine mdclxxxii." While noticing this admirable institution, which is a perma nent proof how well Seth Ward understood his duty to the "¦widow and fatherless," — we are reminded of some touching lines of Bowles's " On seeing plants in the "windows of Seth Ward's college endowed for widows of clergymen at Salisbury ;" which the poet adds in a note, were written -when the widows were his guests, in accordance with the practice of the canons to entertain the matrons during their term of residence. It is relat ed of the founder by Dr. Pope that he had " often heard him THE DEANEET. 11 express his dislike if any one called it an hospital ; for, said he, many of these are well descended, and have lived in good re putation : I would not have it said of them that they were reduced to an Hospital, but retired to a College, which has a more hon ourable sound." In the north west corner of the close is a square piece of lawn, foiimerly crossed diagonally by a path, surrounded on two sides by majestic trees, and on the others by dwelling houses. Until within a few years, an annual fair used to be held on this spot, and the quiet of the ecclesiastical community was rudely dis turbed by the discordant sounds of gongs and trumpets, and all the "humours of a country fair." The propinquity of this rab- blement and saturalia of mountebanks and coarse revelry, to the sacred edifice, was felt to be incongruous ; and a crusade was declared against it which was ¦vigorously prosecuted for several years, until it was entirely suppressed, to the great gratification of the decorous denizens of the place. In this angle of the close is an old building which might possibly be overlooked; it is an ancient canonical house, and bears the mark of an age coeval with the halle of John Halle and other similar buildings in Salisbury. The doorway and ¦windows are of the same style as many of the old manor-houses to be found scattered through the County of Wilts. The pointed window on the right belonged to the domestic chapel, so com monly attached to the dwellings of the superior clergy. On the cornice of the haU appears the name of John Hid (or Hyde) of the noble family of Clarendon ; several of whom were canons residentary, during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. There are several residences worthy of notice on the west side of the close. Passing the cathedral school, we observe a gothic House now in the occupation of James Hussey, Esq. which was thoroughly repaired and restored by the late Mr. James Lacy. " It has been known, from time immemorial by the title of ' The Wardrobe,' and is conjectured to have served in that capacity as an adjunct to the King's House."* "¦ Rev. Peter Hall's Memorials of Salisbury. 12 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBITET CATHEDEAL. Nearly adjoining, is the canonical residence no-w occupied by Canon Fisher, — a fine old mansion of considerable antiquity. The space in the projecting front now filled by square sashes was, not long ago, a bay-^window. We learn from the biography of Constable, the eminent landscape painter, that he was a frequent visitor at this house ; and that it was here he painted his celebra ted picture of Salisbury Cathedral, so well known by the beauti'- ful engraving published from it. Exactly opposite the West front of the Cathedral, is the Deaneet, a large and commodious mansion surrounded by grounds tastefully laid out. It was considerably beautified, we believe, by the late Dean, Francis Lear, whose memory is fra grant in the hearts of all who knew him. " A man he was to all the country dear." And very much of Goldsmith's description of the genuine minister of religion applies to the memory of that good man, whose simple piety and largeness of heart endeared him to all, whether in or out of the established church. " And even his failings lean'd to virtue's side ; But in his duty prompt at every call, He watch 'd and wept, he pray'd and felt, for all: And as a bird each fond endearment tries. To tempt its new-fledged offspring to the sties. He tried each art, reproved each dull delay, AUured to brighter worlds, and led the way. The Deanery is at present occupied by the Eev. W. Parr Hamilton, a distinguished champion of the cause of popular education. We then come to an ancient mansion called The Ejng's House. It was untU recently, divided into two residences, and was nearly covered with ivy. It has undergone thorough resto ration and improvement in order to adapt it to its present use — that of The Diocesan Teaining School eoe Schoolmisteesses. It is said to have been built about the beginning of the fifteenth cen tury ; and derives its name from ha-ving been occasionaUy occu pied by the Monarchs during the royal progresses through the West. It was here Richard the third was staying at the time of HAENHAM GATE. 13 the execution of the Duke of Buckingham, which took place in Salisbury, in the Reign of Richard the third, it is believed in the court yard of the Blue Boar Inn, the site now occupied by the Saracen's Head in the Blue Boar Row. James the first often ¦visited Salisbury, and generally resided here as the guest of Sir Thomas Sadler, the then proprietor. It was from this house James proceeded to the episcopal palace, when, in 1618, he created Augustus Robert Viscount Lisle, Earl of Leicester, and William Lord Compton, Earl of Northampton. Its numerous and spacious apartments admirably adapt it for its present purpose : and the manner in which the necessary works were carried out reflects credit upon Mr. Fisher the architect, Mr. Osmond, and all concerned. The establishment provides accommodation for sixty pupils, and is throughly drained and ventilated, so that the health and comfort of the inmates are well provided for. The various apartments are lofty, the dormitories airy, and all the offices complete and convenient. Below this is a canonical House called Leadenhall, or Leyden Hall, which was built by Elias de Berham, (or Derham) believed to have been the architect of the cathedral. The house has been so completely modernised as to present few traces of the original building. Several other residences in this part of the close, deserve atten tion ; but we must pass on. Before we leave the close, however, we must ask the ¦visitor to contemplate the aspect of the cathe dral and cloisters from this point of ¦view. It must be a matter of individual opinion which aspect of the splendid edifice pre sents it in the more satisfactory light as a whole ; but to us the building never appears to greater advantage then when seen from this part of the close ; the beautiful proportions of the structure grow upon us as we gaze. We have now reached the south gate of the close, usually cal led the Haenhak Gate. This is a smaUer and more unpreten ding structure than either of the other gates, though partaking of the same style. It was originally simply a postern-gate, and 14 the STEANGEb's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. is not so wide as the others; but the arch is higher in proportion. It is conjectured that the other gates were originally more lofty than they now are ; and it is supposed their height has been diminished by the accumulation of soil at their bases. From this gate the walls of the close extend quite round to the St. Anne's gate, enclosing on the South and East the epis- capal Palace and the spacious gardens and pleasure grounds attached thereto. These are separated from the pubUc path of the close on the west, by a modem brick waU bounding the broad graveUed promenade leading to the west front of the cathedral. At the base, of this wall was formerly a ditch more or less stag nant and unsightly. This has been recently fiUed in and the space planted with evergreens protected by a light iron raUing effecting a great improvement in this part of the close. Following this broad pathway we pass the cloisters and west front, and reach the square la^wn in the north west corner alluded to before. Turning towards the east gate we pass several houses of evident antiquity, and come to one of peculiar interest as the canonical residence for many years of the late Rev. W. L. Bowles. This house, if not coeval with the cathedral, is not of much later date. It has been occasionally renovated but retains much of its original peculiarity of style. It was previously occupied by Archdeacon Coxe the Historian of Marlborough, House of Aus tria, &c. On the right, in the garden, wiU be observed an open arch, under which is a neat monumental tablet bearing the fol lowing inscription: — "M. Gulmi. Coxe, Uteris per Europaim il- lustris, W. L. B., Succeesor bis JEdibus Canonicis, P. — mdcccxxs." One cannot but regard with interest this house, so deUght- fuUy situated exactly opposite the north side of the Cathedral, occupied successively by two eminent men of genius, men who have "made their mark" in literature, and whose names ¦wiU not easUy be obliterated from the muster roll of England's worthies. During the later part of his life Bowles resided principally in Sa- Usbury ; and it was in the close that many of his sweetest poems were written. He was elected canon-residentiary in 1828 and died, after a gradual decay of the vital powers, in SaUsbury, April KEV. W. L. BOWLES. 15 7, 1850, aged eighty-eight years. This long Hfe was devoted to duties of a clergyman and to literature ; and he has left behind him evidence of his genius as a poet, a writer on topography and as an editor and controversialist. " He was a diligent pastor, an eloquent preacher, an active justice, and in every way an estima ble man. Even Byron who met him at Mr. Rogers' in London, speaks of him as a ' pleasant, gentlemanly man — a good feUow for a parson.' " * To Moore, Coleridge, and his other contempora- raries, Bowles was greatly endeared by his simplicity and geetle- ness. Coleridge has recorded his sentiments in a beautiful sonnet, commencing " My heart has thanked thee Bowles, for those soft strains ! Whose sadness soothes me like, the murmuring Of wild bees in the summer showers of spring I" In 1807 Bowles edited an edition of Pope in ten volumes, which led to the celebrated controversy between him, and Byron, Camp bell, Roscoe and the Quarterly Review. He was afterwards en- I gaged in some skirmishes with Lord Brougham, Sir James Mack intosh, and the late Rev. Edward Duke ; in which he displayed considerable pluck, and skiU. It is chiefly, however, as a poet that he will be remembered ; for it was in his poetry that his gentle, amiable spirit made itself kno^wn and loved. During the latter part of his life he might have been seen daily drawn about the close in a Bath chair in a state bordering on second childhood. We weU remember the feelings with which we used to look upon the Bfged poet, from whose eyes the poetic fire had long ceased to flash ; and we cannot forget his venerable form, his shrunken cheeks, and lusterless eye in connection with the gravelled walks he so constantly frequented ; nor can we think of him other than as aSALisBUET Poet, of whose name and fame the city might well be proud. On this side of the close are several mansions more or less in teresting as specimens of ancient domestic architecture : and which would repay examination. From this a carriage road leads to the principal entrahce to the Bishop's palace, passing beneath * Gilfillan. 16 THE STEANGEE's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. a noble avenue of trees of great height and beauty. In this road is situated the Diocesan Board Room and Depository : in which much of the business of societies connected with the diocese is transacted. Below it are offices of the Diocesan Registry for the Testamentary and other ecclesiastical business. HISTOET OP THE CATHEDEAL. 17 CHAPTEE II. History of the Cathedral — Transfer from Old Sarum — Foundation — Consecra tion of Altars — Visits of the King — Interment of William Longspee, Earl of Salisbury — Progress of the struclure — Its completion and dedication. " What cannot Art and Industry perform. When Science plans the progress of their toil ." Beattie. In the preceding chapter we have devoted our attention to the beautiful cathedral close which adorns our city. In the present chapter, in order to ^render our guide complete, we propose to give so much of the history of the sacred edifice, and of the ecclesiasti cal affairs of the diocese, as will add to the interest of the visitor's examination of the structure itself, and afford him desirable in formation. In our Sieangbe's Handbook to Salisbuey we haye traced the events which led to the transference of the See from Sher borne to Old Sarum, about the year 1073 ; and the appointment of Osmund to the bishopric. This iUustrious prelate energetically set himself to the promotion of the ecclesiastical establishment over which he presided. He immediately commenced his Cathe dral, and devoted his large possessions to its endowment. He illustrated his prelacy by inauguratiug a new ritual, and conso lidating in many ways the power and influence of the clergy. For these important services to the church he was afterwards can onized, and St. Osmund became the patron saint of the city. We have also sketched the events of the next hundred years, during which the see passed successively through the hands of Roger, Joceline de Bailul, Hubert Walter, and Herbert Poore ; and the state of affairs in the "hill city," as Old Sarum was sometimes 18 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. called, which superinduced the idea of removal from the hill to a more convenient site in the plain. Several causes were alleged which operated more or less in bringing about this movement. It was said the hill was barren and dry, — water was scarce and difficult to be obtained ; but if this was aU, we might ask how it was the fortress had existed so long, and found sufiicient water for its inhabitants, during so many years as had elapsed from its foundation ? As to the bulk of the inhabitants who resided on the slope of the hUl towards the Stratford meadows, surely the Avon supplied abundance of water to meet their necessities. We are inclined to believe that the truer reason was, the growing uneasiness of an increasing body of ecclesiastics, in the midst of a military fortress which overawed them ; and the ill-concealed jealousy between the military authorities and the clergy. With in the fortress, the church could hold but di-vided authority ¦with civilians ; which the churchmen of that age with their charac teristic craving for supremacy, could iU brook. This would appear from the language of Peter of Blois, a contemporary writer, who describes the church " as a captive on the hUl, where it was built, like the ark of God, when shut up in the profane house of Baal;" and he goes on to say, "Let us in God's name descend into the plain. There are rich champain fields and fertile vallies, abounding in the fruits of the earth, and watered by the Uving stream. There is a seat for the Virgin patroness of our church, to which the world cannot produce a parallel." Whatever were the causes which led to the change, certain it is that there was, amongst the ecclesiastics and civilans, wonder ful unanimity in the desire to escape from the military fortress in which they were located. The design was first formed by Her bert Poore, but from various obstacles then in the way, it was for a time abandoned, to be revived with greater energy by Richard Poore, who succeeded his brother in the bishopric, and obtained in 1218, from the Pope the necessary permission to remove the cathedral and ecclesiastical establishment to a new site in the vaUey. These events are quantly chronicled in Dr. Pope's " Sa- SALISBUET BALLAD. 19 Usbury Ballad," written about the latter end of the seventeenth century.* " The Soldier and Church-men did not long agree, For the surly men with the Hilt on, < Made sport at the Gate, with the Priests that came lata From shriving the Nuns of Wilton. Whereupon Bishop Poor went to the King, And told him his piteous Tale, That rather than abide such a Thorn in his side, He'd build a new Church in the vale. I'll bmld a new Church in the Vale, said he. If your Highness will give me scope : Who, I, said the King ? I'll not do such a Thing Without our Old Father the Pope. After describing his journey to the Pope to obtain his leave for the removal, he goes on to say, " He went, he prevail'd ; he retmned in a Trice, With ample Authority seized. To remove Azrwrn-stones, and St. Osmv.niTs Bones, And to bmld a new Church where he pleas'd. The Bishop consulted with the Abbess of Wilton as to the site " Yet they could not agree of a Place." In this state of indecision the Virgin appeard to him in his slum bers and gave him the command, " Go build me a Church without any Delay, Go huUd it in Merryfield. He awakes and he rings ; up ran Monks and Friars At the sound of his little BeU ; I must know, said he, where 'M.erryfield is j But the Devil-a-bit could they tell." He wandered forth and overheard a soldier speaking about the Merryfield, and on enquiring where it was situated, " The Soldier reply'd, by the River-side, Where you see that Brindle-Cow. Upon this he declared his pious Intent, And about the Indulgencies ran. And brought in bad People to build a goodSteeple, And thus the Cathedral began." We do not vouch for the miraculous selection of the site of the new cathedral ; the reader may credit it on the faith of the Sa- * Printed in the year 1713. Reprinted by E, Easton, Salisbury, 1770. 20 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. lislury Ballad if he pleases ; but a tradition certainly exists in the locality that the finding by the monks of a peculiarly marked cow browsing in the meadows, determined the spot upon which the new cathedral was to be built. Whatever led to its selection, the place chosen was in the angle formed by the junction of the the Nadder and the Avon, "a spot" says Mr. Hatcher, "which might almost be considered as chosen in contrast to the airy situa tion about to be relinquished." So eager were the inhabitants of Old Sarum to take advantage of the decree of the Pope, that within two years from the date of the important document, viz April 28, 1220, the first stone of the new church -was laid in the presence of a vast concourse of people. It is said there was not a large gathering of the nobility on the occasion ; but the common people mustered very strongly. A full service was performed ; after which the Bishop laid the first stone for " our Lord Pope Honorius ;" the second for Stephen Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury, and a Cardinal of the Church, who was absent ¦with the King in Wales ; and a third stone he laid for himself. The fourth stone was laid by William Longs pee Earl of Sarum ; and the fifth stone was laid by his wife, Ela Countess of Sarum. After these other stones were laid by noble men then present; and by the dignitaries of the church of Sarum : the people manifesting great interest in the ceremony, and contributing largely to the cost of the fabric. On their return from Wales many of the nobility laid stones, contributing their alms and agreeing to an annual oblation for a period of seven years. The Dean and Chapter had previously, on receipt of the Papal Bull, resolved to assist in the building of the new church, assessing themselves according to their prebendal estates for the same period. Other methods of raising money were adopted ; and the plan was pursued, much practised in modern times, of send ing out preachers who were to travel the length and breath of the country to collect the offerings of all good christians towards the new cathedral. By these means the building progressed so rapidly that in 1225 it was sufficiently advanced for the perfor mance of Divine Service. The Bishop summoned all the Canons CONSECEATION OE THE ALTAES. 21 to be present at the ceremony of consecrating the altars upon the vigil of St. Michael. The first altar was at the east end of the buUding, in honour of the Trinity and All Saints, at which mass was to be sung daily ever afterwards. Three silver basons and two silver candlesticks were offered by the Bishop upon this altar and he gave the clerks who were to say mass, thirty marks of sil ver a year out of his own property until a permanent endowment could be arranged for them. The second altar was in the northern part of the church, dedicated to St. Peter and the rest of the Apostles ; and the third was in the southern part in ho nour of Stephen and the other Martyrs. At this ceremony several distinguished personages were present. Amongst others were Stephen. Archbishop of Canterbury Henry, Archbishop of Dublin; Richard, Bishop of Durham Joceline, Bishop of Bath ; Ealph de Nevil, Bishop of Chichester the Bishop of Eureux, in Normandy ; and Otto, the Pope's Nuncio besides a brilliant list of knights and barons. On the following day the Archbishop of Canterbury preached to the people who crowded to hear him. Richard, the Bishop of Sarum, splendidly entertained the august company for a week at his own charge : and it is recorded by De Wanda that the whole festival was happily conducted, and satisfactorily brought to a conclusion, ¦without aught to mar the harmony of the festivities. On the Thursday foUowing the feast of St. Michaels, the King, Henry the third, who was at that time staying at Clarendon, came to Salisbury with his grand Justiciary, Herbert de Burgh, to hear mass and made his offering at the altar of the blessed Virgin. The King offered ten marks of silver and one piece of silk and further signalised the occasion by granting to Salisbury a yearly fair for eight days from the Assumption of the Virgin. The Justiciary, not to be behind his royal master, offered for the use of the altar a gold text, or book of the Old and New Testament, set with precious stones and relics of divers saints. The Bishop gained permission that the oblations of the principal altar should be devoted for seven years to the use of the fabric, after which time they were to go to the common use. Henry held his court 22 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. much at Clarendon during this year ; and at Christmas he and Hurbert de Burgh again visited the Cathedral and heard mass, pre senting a gold ring set with a ruby, one piece of silk, and a gold cup weighing ten marks ; and the Justiciary offered the gold text he had before given, with great devotion upon the altar. On the 10th, of January following, WiUiam Longspee, Earl of Salisbury, returned from his military command in Gascony, after having encountered great perils by land and sea, and came to Salisbury were he was received with great demonstrations of joy by the inhabitants who were strongly attached to him. He went publicly with a procession, to offer his thanksgivings in the new cathedral, and retired to his castle at Old Sarum, where he died on the 7th of March following, the victim, there is reason to believe, of the treachery of the Justiciary Hurbert de Burgh. Dur ing the Earl's absence, it would appear that the Justiciary had endeavoured to force the supposed widow of the Earl into a marriage with his nephew, Raymond, for the purpose of securing her wealth and dignitires. On his return, the earl complained to the king, and the favourite had to sue for forgiveness. The mysterious death of the Earl so soon afterwards, leads to the con clusion that the treacherous revenge of his enemy, the disgraced Justiciary, had been satisfied in a manner not uncommon in those days. The body of the Earl was brought to the new cit^, " ¦with maey tears and great lamentation, at the same hour of the day on which he had been received with great joy there ;" and accord ing to Matthew Paris, although during the transit of the body from Old Sarum it blew a violent storm, the torches of the fune ral procession were not extinguished, but burned brightly aU the way. This was the first interment in Salisbury Cathedral; and as we shaU see hereafter, his monument is stiU remaining. In the year 1226 on the feast of the Trinity, De Warda says- the bodies of four of the bishops were brought from Old Sarum, Eerman, Osmund, Roger, and Joceline, and interred in the new jhurch with great ceremony. In the meanwhUe the edifice was going on steadily towards Jompletion ; for though opened for Divine service, it was by no DEDICATION. 28 means finished. The oblations of the pious poured into the trea sury, for the purpose of carrying on the good work, with great liberality ; the good Bishop urged forward the building ¦with much energy and devotedness. He was called upon, however, to leave the scene of his zealous labours ; for in 1228 he was translated by a Papal Bull to the See of Durham. This, though a promo tion, was a source of grief to the prelate, wbo resigned the great work reluctantly into other hands. He was succeeded by Bishop Bingham, who prosecuted the work during his eighteen years re sidence; but apparently with no great vigour, for he left the edifice still incomplete. WiUiam of York, his successor, carried on the undertaking for ten years, and nearly brought it to a con clusion. On his decease, Egidius, or Giles de Bridport, who suc ceeded him, completed the building within two years from his accession to the See. At length the splendid structure, in all its freshness and beauty, was ready for dedication, after thirty eight years spent in the building of it, at an expense of forty thousand marks, or £26,666 13s. 4d. sterling. On 80th September, 1258, Boniface, Archbishop of Canterbury presided at the solemn dedi cation of the splendid temple ; and the imposing ceremony was graced by the presence of the king and queen, and a large assem blage of prelates, and nobles, as well as by a great concourse of the people. Although we have stated that the building was completed by Egidius, we should explain that the spire was a subsequent addi tion to the structure. The original finish was a species of lantern, at the intersection of the principal transept and the nave, which rose about eight feet above the roof, and was ornamented inter nally by a colonnade supporting a series of subdivided arches. During the progress of the edifice, numerous indulgencies were granted by different Bishops to persons who should aid the work, and perform their devotions within the building. Soon after the foundation, Stephen Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury granted an indulgence of thirty days to contributors to the new fabric. Indulgencies were also granted by two Bishops of St. Asaph ; the Archbishop of Cassell ; Bishop of Bath and Wells ; Arch- 24 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. bishop of DubUn, &c., ranging in date from 1220 to 1306. The attractions of such spiritual privileges in that age were irresist- able ; and it can easily be supposed that great concourses of pil grims were thus brought to Salisbury to pay homage and contri bute of their substance to the noble structure. There is evidence that this was so, from references in various authorities to the nu merous inns and hostelries, which are mentioned by name, that existed in the new city. The rapid growth of the city also attests the attrections of the cathedral, in drawing around it a thriving population. Very soon we find the Parish churches, one after the other, required by the increasing number of the inhabitants ; and it is probable that the city at that time had taken as nearly as possible its present form, and occupied nearly as much ground as it now does. The feudal supremacy of the Bishops led subsequently to some unpleasantness between the inhabitants and the prelates ; and the demand for tallage was resisted, and an appeal made to the king. The privileges of the charter were freely resigned by the citizens at that time, rather than submit to the Bishops. These matters, however, were afterwards accommodated: the inhabitants submitted humbly to the Bishop ; the charter, on his intercession, was restored, and harmony once more estab lished in the city. We need not enter further into such affairs; it is time to turn to the edifice itself, and proceed with our in spection of the sacred building. THE BXTEEIOE OP THE CATHEDEAL. 25 CHAPTEE III. The exterior of the Cathedral — Its leading characteristics — Its general plan and dimensions — The West front — North Porch — The Tower and Spire — The Belfi-y. " As many days as in one year there be. So many windows in this church we see ; As many marble pillars here appear, As there are hours throughout the fleeting year ; As many gates as moons one year does view — Strange tale to tell I yet not more strange than true."* A thousand eloquent descriptions have been given of the glori ous temple which is the subject of this little work. Each has done his best to describe its numberless beauties in adequate and ap propriate terms, and each has proved the poverty of language to convey the impressions derived from its contemplation. Thorough ly to appreciate the achievements of perfect art, demands an amount of knowledge and technical skill, combined with imagi native and reflective faculties of no mean order, — a combination but rarely to be found. Recondite art demands the artist's eye, practised and keen ; the artist's love of the beautiful and true ; and the artist's fine feeling to understand it, and sympathize with it: The noblest painting, the matchless "statue that enchants the world," the grandest temple conceived in the imagination of an architect and " blossoming in stone," — find their truest admi rers in the men who come the nearest in artistic status to the minds that gave them birth. Yet there is, in the highest speci- * Translation from some Latin verses by Daniel Rogers, printed in Camden's " Brittannica." 26 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. mens of art, that which commands the intuitive admiration of all ; for art is a " broad and deep sea " in which a child may lave its feet, and Leviathan disport himself :— it is a noble river at which aU may drink, and drink their fiU. The purest art has a sim- pUcity which attracts the humble, and satisfies the great : it sets the uneducated rustic agape with wondering joy, and pours a deep deUght into the bosoms of the cultivated and refined. Such a gem of art is before us in SaUsbury Cathedral. Not a ploughboy strays into its precincts but gazes awestruck and aston ished at the noble structure, and puzzled and thrUled pursues his way — " Pleased he knows not why, and cares not wherefore :" not a schoolboy but sometimes strains his eyes to measure the height of that airy spire, and goes away with a germ of grandeur in his heart that might strike its roots there and lead to greatness and to glory : — and surely not a man of noble inteUect, — be he scholar, philosopher, artist, poet, — but drinks a deep draught of beauty, and feels within him a "joy too deep for words " as he contemplates the manifold loveliness and harmony of proportion manifested in the splendid structure. It has charms for all ; for the severe mathematician, as well as the ardent admirer of aes thetic beauty. Who can wonder then, that the thoughtful and intelligent of all countries for the past six centuries have bent their steps to this shrine of Gothic perfection ! who can be aston ished at the space it occupies in books of EngUsh travel and to pography ! But instead of quoting the opinions of others ¦with reference to Salisbury Cathedral, as a kind of voucher to character, we wUl turn to the edifice itself and commence our examination with the exterior. The first impression generally produced by the build ing on those who see it for the first time is, that of extreme lightness and elegance. It looks so light that but for its size it might be a model in pasteboard ; and at the same time it looks so substantial that we have no misgivings as to its solidity. It pre sents a great contrast to the Norman style of building, such as is seen in some other cathedrals, where the first effect is that of ITS LEADING CHAEACTEEISTICS. 27 massiveness and strength. The numerous windows of the pointed style, and the Ughtness of the mouldings and pUlars, rendered it necessary to resort to other expedients, to obtain the requisite so lidity. The walls are everywhere strengthened by buttresses of considerable projection ; at all the principal angles as well as in the weaker parts of the walls between the ¦windows. The same support is given to the waUs of the nave, by flying buttresses con cealed within the roofing of the aisles. There are also in places, exterior flying buttresses to give additional solidity. These bold projections presenting so many angles to the light, and forming such deep shadows, throw the various parts of the building into strong reUef, and in some lights have a remarkable effect. The pediments and pinnacles are introduced with great skill to aid the strength of the structure, and impart el^ance to its appearance. The many points thus presented to the eye while severally plea- ing when examined in detail, produce unitedly a harmonious whole, which Uke the finest music, though composed of minor discords, yet blend into a grand diapason of harmony. Not an angle, buttress, or pinnacle can be spared : nowhere is the orna mentation too elaborate, and nowhere is the simplicity of the architect's design overlaid by unmeaning or meretricious adorn ment. Indeed, when taken in detail, one is disposed to blame the builders for the meagreness of their decoration ; but taken as a whole, we must confess that it would have been impossible to hit the exact medium more completely, than has been done in this un dertaking : for every requisite is present, and nothing beyond is needed. The church is built in the form of a double cross : its exterior dimensions are from west to east 473 feet; and from north to south 229 feet 7 inches ; the smaller transept extends in length 1 70 ; the width of the west front is 1 1 1 feet 4 inches ; the nave and aisles 99 feet 4 inches ; the height of the west front 130 feet ; the roof 115 feet ; to the top of the parapet wall of the tower 207 feet; to the capstone of the spire 387 feet; and the extreme height from the pavement 400 feet. The late eminent antiquarian and topographer, Mr. Britton, 28 THE STKANGEE's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. recommends visitors to the cathedral to approach it from the east, from which point of view the entire bmlding is commanded at one glance, embracing the lady chapel, transept, nave, tower and spire, bristling everywhere with pinnacles and buttresses in seeming confusion, but presenting wonderful homogeneousness and varied harmony. He further remarks that, to be seen to ad vantage, it should be visited when the morning sun lights up one side of the tower and the eastern sides of the transepts; or when the summer sun is declining in the west and throws its golden rays on the northern part of the transepts, and tips the pinnacles with sparkling gleams of brightness. But it matters compar,a-' lively Uttle at what hour it be visited, or whether the sun be brightly shining in the east, or glowing in the west ; in whatever light it be seen, and under whatever skies, the edifice will be found to show itself " clothed ¦with beauty as a garment," taking its peculiar charm from the hour and the " skiey influences." We have seen it at all hours, and under almost every aspect, with a background of sky of all descriptions of hues, from the leaden gray of winter to the etheral blue of autumn ; we have gazed upon it at early morn and at eventide; we have visited it "by the pale moonlight," as Scott recommends to those who would " view fair Melrose aright," and seen it wrapping itself in elfin beauty as in white robes relieved by masses of the deepest shadows ; we have seen it covered with snow as in a winding sheet, ¦with every bit of tracery and moulding pricked out by the lodgments of the snow- flakes, the roofs so covered as to present scarcely any sky-Une, and the traceried tower and spire brought out in wonderful relief and newness ; and we have seen large portions of the structure glazed by the frozen rain, gUttering with unwonted sheen ; — and we are stiU at a loss to decide in which aspect, at what hour, and from what point, the edifice is displayed to the greatest advantage. We are disposed to recommend the stranger to visit it at what ever time it may suit him to do so, regardless of atmosphere effects, and take his chance of a favourable Ught ; for we are sure he will find in it at all times sufficient to rivet his gaze and fill him with delight. THE WEST FEONT. 29 We may here quote Dodsworth's description of the exterior. He says, " This magnificent structure consists of a nave and side- aisles, ¦with transepts, forming a double cross. On the east of each transept is a side-aisle. The nave, choir, and transepts rise to an elevation of three tiers. The lower arches are of the lancet kind, supported by clustered columns, each composed of four pillars, with as many slender shafts." These carry the upper or clere-story, lighted by triple lancet windows, the cen tral light being of greater height than the others. " The projecting parts are marked with additional ornaments. The arches of the east end, the terminations of the transepts, and the front of the north porch, are embellished with shafts and mould ings, — simple, yet tasteful, and calculated to give a more elegant and elaborate appearance to those portions which first strike the eye. The whole building, and likewise the cloister, are surmount ed with a parapet wall, the style of which has been much admired." But the west front is that which will probably most command the attention of the visitor : and of this Mr. Britton says, it was the part in which the architect has chosen to display his taste and fancy. The lancet and subdivided arches are here gracefully intermixed, and trefoil-headed niches, surmounted with pedi ments, terminating in trefoils, are profusely scattered over the whole front itself, as well as the sides and reverse of the square turrets, with which it is flanked. These originally contained images, which, to judge from the mutilated remnants still left were in no wise contemptible, either for style or exection. Many of the string-courses and heads of the niches are decorated with an open zig-zag moulding ; and the division is marked by a fillet of lozenge work, enriched with trefoUs and quatrefoils. A comparision of this front with the other parts of the structure, ¦will prove that the design of the builder was to exhibit his power of combining grandeur with elegance and simplicity; and that, if he was elsewhere sparing of his ornaments, it was from taste and judgment, not from poverty of imagination." 80 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. Four large buttresses divide the west front, and project from the elevation. In the central compartment is the principal entrance underneath a portico consisting of three arches with pediments : the middle arch being divided into two equal parts by a clustered column. Above this is a series of arcades, exhibit ing a row of quatrefoils and terminating in pointed canopies. Above this is the grand western ¦window divided into three Ughts and fiUed in with rich stained glass. In the upper di^vision are two windows of two lights each ; and the centre is crowned by a bold pediment surmounted by a cross. On each side of the prin cipal portico is another similar one, but smaller, giving access to the side aisles. Above are double windows; and above that again two windows of two lights each. Then a series of niches, each of which contained an image. The buttresses and turrets are also highly ornamented with niches, columns, canopies, and other details of Gothic tracery. A broad band of lozenge work is carried round the turrets and across the west front ; and similar bands are carried round the spire and tower. On the north side of the nave is an entrance porch, of style and height corresponding with the walls of the side-aisle, to which it gives access. It projects boldly from the main building, and consists of two stories. A lofty pointed arch of clustered columns and rich tracery, flanked on each side by low, strong buttresses, gives an entrance to the highly-ornamented interior of the porch. Above the arch is a beautiful double window, divided into four lights by clustered shafts, and filled in with rich tracery above. The porch is finished by an acute pediment, with a cross in the centre and a light pinnacle of clustered columns on each side. In the interior are rows of clustered columns and niches, and the roof is groined and pointed. A double doorway, corres ponding in character to the windows, admits to the north aisle of the edifice. On the north side of the principal transept there was formerly an entrance porch, which has been removed, and now stands in a corner of Mr. Campbell Wyndham's park. It was removed during the alterations which were made in the cathedral by Bishop Bar- NOETH POECH. 31 rington. It is rather an elegant architectural fragment, and harmonizes with the cathedral in its character. It is formed of four piers, with pointed arches between them ; and on each pier are niches for statuary. It is finished above by a low parapet wall, with pinnacles at each corner, and a low steeple in the centre. It is said to be of older date than the cathedral; but fliere is some doubt about it. The Rev. Peter Hall says : — " There cannot be the slightest ground for assigning this elegant structure to an earlier, if, indeed, so early a date as that of the present cathedral." Its history is set forth in the Latin inscription, of which the following is a translation : — " This building, originally constructed in the City of Old Sarum, aud afterwards " transferred to the New City, where, for upwards of live hundred years, it " served as a Vestibule to the Northern Door of the Cathedral, now closed " up, was placed on this spot, with consent of the Dean and Chapter, by " Henry Penruddocke Wyndham, in the year 1791." To the south of the building we have the cloisters, chapter house, and muniment room, of which more anon : and at the back of these, and to the east of the chapter-house is the Episcopal Palace. The walls and buttresses of the edifice are of Chilmark stone, brought from a village of that name about twelve miles distant. Alicia, heiress of the powerful family of Brewer, granted from her quarries all the stone required for the church during twelve years. The piUars and shafts are of Purbeck marble, from the Isle of Purbeck, in Dorsetshire. The material is very durable, and susceptible of a high poUsh ; indeed, most of the shafts retain their polish to this day. Those which sustain any pressure are laid according to their natural bed in the quarry, but the merely ornamental shafts are inverted. They were not generally intro duced in the order of building, but inserted in sockets of lead left for the purpose, after the work had settled, and were bound to the other parts of the structure by bands of brass. The timbers throughout the structure are of oak; and, from a computation laid before the Lords of the Treasury in 1737, it would appear that at least 2,641 tons of oak were employed in the several roofs of the building. 52 THE stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. We have said that the tower and spire formed no part of the original structure. This stupendous addition was made in the reign of Edward the third, and is a wonderful example of English taste and science. The conception of the design was singularly bold ; for never poet dreamed of any fantastic structure so ethereal and so daring; and certainly never architect had attempted to realize, in stone, a thing so "like an exhalation" and so weird. No ordinary task had to be accomplished in rearing such a super structure as this; and the manner in which it was performed is no less extraordinary than the originality and boldness of the design. The original finish, as we have pointed out, was a lantsm ornamented with a colonnade within, and rising only eight feet above the roof of the nave. The wall in this part is only two feet thick, and is built with hewn stone, without and within, filled in the middle with flints and rubble. Into this was inserted a course of stone a foot in thickness, parallel to the declivity of the roof, as a water-table for the lead covering. On this slender foundation, the architect had the hardihood to build the tower and spire, trusting to the strength of the braces and flying but tresses which he might be able to introduce. " Of these. Price enumerates no less than one hundred and twelve, amounting, together, to 387 superficial feet, in addition to the 260 feet con tained in the original arcade. Besides these, additional strength was given by walling up the doorway, left for communication with the upper windows, and bj' numerous bars and bandages of iron, particularly one about the upper part of the arcade, which embraces it within and without, and was ranked, by Sir Chris topher Wren, among the best pieces of smith's work in Europe, for the time."* The tower consists of three stories. The firsf is the original finish, marked by an embattled moulding. The waUs of the second are six ieet thick, with large piers and narrow windows. Those of the third, as if from some apprehension caused by the pressure of the mass, are reduced to a hollow Ught work, con- * Dodsworth. IHE TOWER. 33 sisting of pilasters and recesses. Two bandages of iron encircle the tower just below the finish, and others are, doubtless, con cealed within the walls. The spire is octagonal ; hence, four arches were necessarily thrown across the angles of the tower to carry the foundations, and these were strengthened with cramps of iron. As these four arches have no abutment, the architect contrived to supply the defect, by erecting pinnacles on the angles which confine the arches, and blend the square form of the tower with the octagon of the spire. At this part is another bandage of iron, consisting of a two-inch bar covered with lead, and inserted in the masonry. The walls of the tower are here five feet thick, of which two are employed for the foundation of the spire, two for a passage, and one for the parapet. The walls of the spire diministi gradually until, at the height of twenty feet, they are reduced to nine inches, which thickness is preserved to the summit. To add artificial strength to this thin shell of stone, the architect contrived a timber framework, which was carried up ' till the narrow limits of the spire prevented its being carried further, and then it was suspended to the capstone by the iron bar which bears the vane. Access to the inteiior of the tower is gained by spiral stone staircases within the angles, and to the spire by means of ladders, until the "weather door" is reached, beyond which further progress must be by strong iron rings cramped into the stonework on the outside. The architect of this later portion of the edifice, it is admitted on all hands, has admirably discharged his duty, and produced a work which at once harmonizes with and crowns the other glories of the structure. He has judiciously adopted the same style of ornamentation, introducing the embattled moulding of the original finish round the turrets which crown the angles of the tower, and also, as we have before mentioned, the bands of lozenge-work with which the west front is adorned. The work is highly elaborated and enriched with a profusion of finials, trefoUs, roses, and other 34 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. ornaments of the early part of the fourteenth century ; and in no part is there the slightest poverty of invention. Dodsworth imagines that the same architect added the pinnacles which rise from the different angles of the church. But the structure had scarely been completed before it became apparent that the bold, but beautiful, addition of the architect had endangered the safety of the building. In spite of all the skill employed, various cracks and flaws appeared in the vaulting underneath; and, so early as 1416, considerable expense was in curred to save the fabric from premature ruin. In 1669 Charles the second, despatched his architect, Sir Chris topher Wren, to examine the fabric and execute the necessary re pairs. An abstract of his report has come down to us. After des cribing the structure, he notices the defects of the original struc ture, and the decays produced by age or accidents. He enume rates three faults in the primary design : the want of care in the foundation, the lowness of the floor in case of inundations, and the defect in the poise of the building, the substructions being too slender for the weights above. He then alludes to the declination of the tower and spire." Of the four pillars on which it stands," he observes, " those towards the west have sunk, but not equally ; that to the south west seven or eight inches ; that to the north west half as much. This occasioned the tower and spire to lean towards the south west. He estimated the decline at 27i inches to the south, and 17^ to the west. After suggesting proper re pairs, he points out the smaller defects of the steeple. One of the four pinnacles had been much shaken by lightning, as well as the walls of the spire, and the door jamb leading to the pinnacle had given way, and occasioned large cracks in the space above it which, he said, being on the decUning side, called for speedy amendment. He also says there were other defects in the spire ; some the effects of the declination, others arising from tempests by which it had been assailed. To remedy these defects he rec- commends that the example of the architect who made great use of iron should be followed, and suggests the appUcation of iron bandages. ' ' In consequence of this advice, the hoops or ban- THE SMEE. 55 dages which bind the spire together were put up ; the choir was newly paved ; and other repairs and renovations carried into effect."* In 1681 the calculations made by Sir Christopher Wren became unsatisfactory ; and a new experiment was made by Mr. Naish, clerk of the works, by means of a plumb line fixed at the weather door. This experiment was repeated by Mr. Mill with greater accuracy under the direction of Bishop Sherlock, when the declina tion was calculated at 22-|- inches to the south west ; and the result was marked on the pavement as a guide for future observations. In the beginning of the last century, Mr. Price, Clerk to the works, again surveyed the tower and spire. He found that the declination is not in a direct line, as from any single course. At the height of 89 feet, the decUne is f of an inch southward, and 1^ westwards, which he attributes to unequal pressure of the graid arches. At the top of the parapet waU of the tower, 209 feet above the floor, the decline to the south is 9 inches, and west 3|- At the bottom of the weather-door, 358 feet from the ground, the ' decline to the south is 20 inches, and west 12^. At the top of the capstone the decline is 24| inches south, and 1 ^\ west. The spire narrowly escaped destruction by the electric fluid on several occasions. In the years 1431, 1560, and 1641 the top of the spire had been struck and a cleft of twenty feet in length oc casioned : but on 21st, June, 1741, during a ¦violent storm, a flash of lightning was observed to strike the upper part of the tower. The next morning the sexton was alarmed by indications of fire ; and it was ascertained that the fluid had set fire to one of the braces. The flames had begun to spread and communicate with the adjacent timbers; but prompt assistance saved the edifice from destruction. A curious discovery was made by Mr. Lush, Clerk of the works in 1762, when fixing a new vane. On the south side of the cap stone a cavity was found, in which was concealed a leaden boxi containing another of wood neatly carved, ¦with an opening in the ¦* Dodsworth. 36 THE STEANGEe's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. side, in which was found a piece of silk or fine linen so decayed as to resemble tinder. It is supposed that this was a relic of the Virgin Mary deposited in that place as a charm or taUsman to preserve the building from accident. We close this chapter by pointing out the site of the Beleet. This was a separate building rather massively constructed, which was situated a short distance to the north of the north porch of the cathedral. Of this structure no traces whatever now exist ; it was removed entirely during the alterations effected by Mr. Wyait, to whose spoliations we have already referred and shall do BO again. It is greatly to be regretted that this interesting struc ture, which was certainly coeval with the cathedral, had not been preserved. It consisted of a square tower strengthened by but tresses of the same style as those of the church, and pierced by lancet windows. It was divided into three stories: the lower being finished by a parapet waU corresponding with that of the church. The second story was more ornamented, and had a greater number of double windows ; this also was finished by a similar parapet wall. From the roof of this story sprung an oc- . tagonal turret surmounted by an embattled parapet waU and fin ished by a small steeple. The centre was supported, like the chapter-house," by a single shaft of Purbeck marble embedded in its natural soil according to the strata of the quarry from which it was brought. The spire which was composed of timber frames covered isvith lead, was taken down for repairs in 1758; and Mr. Price proposed its restoration. The whole fabric, however, was condemned and removed by that prince of spoliators, Wyatt, whose handywork has been justly anathematised by every competent authority down to the present day. The Belfry was the scene of some interesting transactions dur ing the civil war ; when it was garisoned and fortified by Ludlow in 1645, under circumstances fully detailed in our Steangee's Guide to Salisbuet,* to which we refer the reader. We may briefly mention, however, that after the battla of Al- ' Cbnptcr 7 pnjc ni. Published by E. Roe, Salisbury, price Is. , IHE BELFET. 37 resford, the 'city was entered and plundered by Sir William Bal four, who had been despatched in pursuit of some of the king's troops. The Royalists were for a time successful ; and Ludlow, unable to maintain his ground in the west, came with bis follow ers flying through the city towards Southampton pursued by the king's troops. The inhabitants thoroughly loyal throughout this contest, assailed Ludlow with derisive cheers as he passed through. He was not a man to brook such treatment ; and he soon returned with eighty horse and levied fines upon the inhabitants. The city was alternately occupied by the opposite forces ; and, in 1645, Ludlow having possession of it, fortified himself within the close, and took up his head-quarters in the Belfry. One evening, whUe he was giving orders and setting his guard for the night, he received the unwelcome intelligence that a party of royalists were approaching, and had already reached Amesbury. Then followed a night skirmish in the streets of the city, and particularly in the market-place and adjoining streets. Ludlow displayed some valour and generalship on the occasion, and took a prisoner himself, who proved to be Colonel Middleton, a royalist ofieer, who gave Ludlow valuable information, upon which he considered it prudent to effect his retreat. The little garrison he had posted in the Belfry held out nearly a whole day against all the force of the royalist troops; but they, having compelled a collier to drive his cart laden with charcoal to the door of the Belfry, set fire to the doors and effected a capture of the entire gallant little band before succour could reach them from Southamptom. Ludlow effected his retreat safely by way of Fordingbridge and Southampton, in hope of procuring succour for the men whom he had left behind in the Belfry ; but, before he could reach them with aid, he heard that they had been burnt out, and that he was, therefore, too late to attempt their rescue. The close being surrounded by a strong embattled wall, was the only part of the city considered at that time capable of defence, without the execution of works which would occupy 38 THE steangee's handbook to SALISBUET CAIHEDEAL. considerable time in their formation. The close, therefore, was frequently, by one party or the other, converted into jnilitary head-quarters, and became the centre of the military movements of the period. But, to enter further on these transactions would require more space than we have at command in this little work; we, therefore, return to the edifice, and pursue our observations on the other parts of the structure. 39 THE steangee's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. CHAPTEE IV. The Interior of the Cathedral — Origin and Characteristics of Gothic Art — General View of the Interior — The Nave — The Great Transept — The Organ Screen — The Choir — and Lady Chapel — The Monuments. " 'Twas the deep forest bodied forth that fane, S9 rose the arches of the old oak trees. So wreathed the close-set branches at their side, So through the open spaces gleamed the sun r While, like an authcm, sung the morning birds." It has come to be tolerably weU understood now that, as Art had its birth in Nature, so is it elevated or debased as it cleaves to or departs therefrom ; and never can a style of Art be perpetuated that is radically untrue to Nature. In nothing is this more clearly manifest than in Gothic art. " The groves were God's first temples ;" and this the Gothic artists well knew. To the woods and majestic forests they went for their models. They studied nature there ; they acquired their grand style, their noble vistas, their lofty pointed arches, their rich tracery, their airy spires and pinnacles there. From the forests they drew their strength, their elegance, their elaborate ornamentation : hence the subUmity of Gothic Art, its perfect beauty, and its perpetual youth. Simplicity lies at the root of all great things ; and a few simple curves, capable of almpst endless combinations, are the foundation of such gorgeous superstructures' as we have before us in Salisbury Cathedral. As all the infinite beauties and harmonies of Nature are derived from a few simple 40 THE steangee's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. elements, so the Gothic buUders, foUovring Nature, from a few simple forms rear the wondrous temples that are the triumphs of genius, and the embodiments of the highest sentiments of which the mind is capable. One cannot but be struck with this, standing, as we do, on the threshold of the western entrance of our noble cathedral. At this point, the interior is seen to the greatest perfection ; and the eye requires time to take in its varied perfections. As it bursts sud denly upon the vision, the first feeUng is that of bewilderment ; and the scene seems to be a glorious contusion of arches and columns, tier above tier reaching to " The high embower'd roof. With antique pillars, massy proof. And storied windows, richly dight. Shedding a dim religious light." But, as we gaze upon this " organised disorder,*' the seeming confusion vanishes, and the full beauty of the structure is revealed tons. The lightness of the columns and slenderness of the marble shafts, the proftision of windows and traceried openings, the lofti ness of the groined roof, stretching far away above us, the sparing. use of ornament, and yet the chasteness of the effect — become the more apparent the longer we gaze. All is the purest and loftiest harmony ; and yet there seems a discordant note which we would willingly miss — one sole drawback to the perfection of the interior, as seen from this part of the edifice. It is felt, mijre or less, by all ¦visitors ; and it is expressed, in the following language, by Emerson, who visited the structure a short time ago. He says: — " The interior of the cathedral is obstructed by the organ in the middle, acting like a screen. I know not why, in real architec ture, the hunger of the eye for length of line is so rarely gratified. The rule of art is, that a colonnade is more beautiful the longer it is, and that ad infinitum. And the nave of a church is seldom so , long that it need be divided by a screen." ¦*¦' The defect aUurted to is not peculiar to Salisbury; in other structures, the same * " Emerson's English Traits." the iniueior. 41 thing is seen, and in some of them it has been remedied by removing the obstruction, and opening up the entire vista of the n ive, with the most decisive results. No edifice with wtiioh we are acquainted would repay such an alteration so well as this. The nave, choir, and transepts are divided into three tiers. " The lower arches are of the lancet kind, supported by clustered c ilumns, each composed of four pillars, with as many slender shafts. In the second tier, or gallery, answering to the roof of the aisles, the double arch, of the Norman style, is replaced by a fi it pointed arch, sub-divided into four smaller, which are varied with different sweeps or divisions, and ornamented alternately ¦with quatrefoils and rosettes of eight leaves. The upper or clere story consists of triple windows, of the lancet shape. Between the middle arches are corbel heads, supporting clustered shafts, with a capital of foliage. From these rises the vaulting, which is plain, and turned with arches and cross-springers only. The columns dividing the principal transept from its aisle, consist of clusters of four without shafts ; those of the smaller transept of two columns, with as many shafts. The upper stories of both transepts are simUar to those of the nave. The lower arches of the choir, as weU as those of the transepts, are enriched with an open zig-zag moulding ; and the space above the smaU lights of the upper -windows is relieved with an ornament, resembling an expanded flower. Throughout the vaulting, the intersection of the cross-springers is marked with a tuft of foliage ; and smaller tufts, or single leaves, are gracefully introduced in other parts of the building. The four arches at the principal intersection are also decorated with a rich moulding of rosettes. The windows of the side-aisles are double lights of the lancet kind, unornamented without, but -with slender shafts ¦within. Those of the upper story, both internaUy and extemaUy, are reUeved ¦with shafts. The mouldings are plain curves, and the bases and capitals of aU the columns exactly similar."* ¦* " Dodsworth History of Salisbury Cathedral." 42 THE steangee's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. We have quoted this architectural description on account of its accuracy and succinctness, in neither of which qualities could we hope to compete with so distinguished an authority. Proceeding up the nave, we reach the great transept ; and, pro bably, the -visitor wUl regard ¦with some amount of curiosity, mingled with astonishment, the four piUars which support the stupendous tower and spire. In most respects, this transept is a repetition of the nave, save that it has only one side aisle, towards the east. The windows of the southern end of the transept are filled with stained glass. Immediately under the spire, a figure is cut in the pavement, showing the extent of the declination of the spire from the perpendicular. The organ screen here divides the choir from the nave and transept. It owes its origin to the tasteless alterations of Wyatt, and is made up partly of portions of the Beauchamp and Hunger ford chapels now destroyed. The organ itself was the gift of George the third, and is a noble instrument. Passing underneath the organ we enter the Choie, the appear ance of which is striking and impressive. The windows at the east end are of painted glass. The ¦window of the clerestory was a gift of the Earl of Radnor in 1781, and iUustrates the elevation of the Brazen Serpent in the Wilderness. The subject fiUs the three lights of the window, and is 21 feet in height by 17 feet 6 inches in width. In the tracery above are the arms of the Radnor family. The great window of the Lady Chapel, until lately, contained a painted window, the subject of which was the Re surrection, designed by Sir Joshua Reynolds and executed by Mr. Eginton. This window is 23 feet in height, and is also in three compartments. The central Ught was chiefly occupied by the figure of our Saviour just emerged from the tomb, from which a light or glory dispersed itself over the entire composition. In the compartment to the left was a distant view of Calvary and the crosses. This windo^w has given place to the present one, which was dedicated to the memory of the Rev. Francis Lear, the late Dean of SaUstury, ia March 1854. The memorial occupies THE LADT CHAPEL. 43 the five lancet windows of the east end of the Lady Chapel. The first on the left hand is devoted to the early history of our Sa^viour, from the Annunciation to the Baptism by John. The central lights comprise the Passion and Crucifixion in eighteen tableaux, with other smaUer iUustrations. The window on the right contains the Resurrection and Ascension. The whole of the subjects are in medallions, on a rich diapered ground. The whole is tastefully designed and admirably executed. The windows of the sides of the Lady Chapel are of similar style, and painted in mosaic. The Lady Chapel is a bold and striking specimen of the skill of the architect. It consists of a body and side aisles of the same breadth as the choir, divided from each other by alternate single and clustered columns of remarkable lightness : these are scarcely nine inches in diameter, though nearly 30 feet in height, and are rendered secure only by the weight of the vaulted ceUing. This part of the church was originally dedicated to the Virgin, and in it early prayers used to be celebrated. On the north side formerly stood the Hungerford Chapel, and on the southern side the Beauchamp Chapel. Both of these were exquisite specimens of the kind: they were destroyed in 1789, and, from their remains, the present altar-piece of the Lady Chapel was composed. This altar-piece consists of five niches — three over the communion table, and one on each side — and are curiously ornamented. The pavement of white and black marble was raised by Wyatt, to give an ascent from the choir. From this point, the choir has a noble appearance. The elegant chantry chapel of Bishop Audley terminates the , choir on the north. The work of this chapel is extremely curious and elaborate, and wUl repay attentive inspection. It was built by the prelate himself in 1520, and is now the only perfect monu ment of the kind left in the cathedral. On the opposite side, the choir is terminated with a chantry chapel founded by Walter, Lord Hungerford, about 1429. It was originally placed in the nave, but was removed, ia 1778, by the Earl of R&dnor, a descendant 44 THE steangee's handbook to S.ALISBUET CATHEDEAL. of the Hungerford famUy. It is elaborately ornamented, and at present used as a pew by the Radnor family. On the left of the choir is the Bishop's throne, richly decorated, with three tiers of canopies, with pinnacles, crockets, &c., termi nated with a crown and finial. Exactly opposite is the pulpit, also highly decorated. On each side of the chapel are the pre bendal stalls, with canopies of florid Gothic. In the south-east transept is a stained glass window, with the following inscription :—" To the memory of the officers, non commissioned officers, and privates of the 62nd or Wiltshire Regiment, who fell in the service of their country in the Sutlej campaign; of whom 7 officers, 107 non-commissioned officers and rank and file, were slain in the gallant attack of the Sikh batteries at Ferozeshaw, 21st December, 1845; and 1 officer and 12 non commissioned officers and rank and file at Aliwal, 28th January, and Sobraon, 10th February, 1846. This window is erected by their surviving comrades." But, before leaving the choir, we ought to notice that it is ter minated at the east end by three lofty pointed arches, springing from clustered columns, and forming the entrance to the Lady Chapel. Over these the triforium, or gaUery, previously noticed, is continued, and opens to the choir by five arches. Above this is the painted window contributed by the Earl of Radnor already mentioned. " Formerly," remarks J. B., " the choir was termi nated by the high altar, which was placed immediately before ihe Screen, which separated the choir from the Lady Chapel. We would not, for the world, propose to re-erect the high altar, havinga due respect for Bishop Jewel, who sleeps beneath the pave ment of the choir ; but, in the opinion of Sir Richard Colt Hoare and a multitude of competent judges, every principle of good taste requires that the partition screen should be replaced where it formerly stood, and the perspective of this part of the building restored according to the design of the original architect."* * " The SaUsbury Guide," by J. B. THE MONUMENTS. 45 f There is reason to believe, on the authority of Dodsworth, that the choir was formerly surrounded by a stone screen, separating it from the other parts of the church and corresponding with it in style. Between the pillars supporting the spire, strong buttress arches have been thrown across the transept to strengthen the piers, and prevent their yielding inwards from the weight of the superin cumbent mass above them. They are effectual for this purpose ; but, though light and not ineffective in themselves, they destroy the unbroken vista of the transept. We will take leave of the interior of the church by a brief description of the principal Monttments. Near the chancel, and terminating the south aisle, is a hand some monument of various descriptions of marble, with several well-executed figures. It is to the memory of Edward, Earl of Hertford, son of Edward, Duke of Somerset, uncle and regent to King Edward VL, who died .^pril 6, 1621. Also, to the memory of his wife Catherine, Countess of Hertford, daughter of Henry and Francis Grey, Duke and Duchess of Suffolk, who died January 22, 1563. Under the monument are also interred John, Duke of Somerset, who died June, 1675; and Lady Elizabeth Seymour, daughter of the eleventh and last Earl of Northumberland, wile to Charles, Duke of Somerset, who died December, 1722. Near the chancel, at the end of the north aisle, is a fine tomb of Purbeck marble with an arch over it, supported by four twisted piUars and as many pUasters ; on the top of which are four pyra mids with balls on the apex ; and, on the top of all, a globe. At the comers are the four cardinal virtues. Underneath are male and female effigies of full size, — the man in armour, with the head lying on a cushion and a horse at his feet ; and the woman in a widow's dress, and at her feet a greyhound. The monument was erected by Edward Gorges, Lord Dundalk, to the memory of his parents. Sir Thomas Gorges, Bart., of Longford ; and Helen Snachenburg, Marchioness Dowager of Northamptnti his -wife. She was maid of honour to Qupp^n "Plizabeth. 46 THE steangee's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. On the south aisle of the choir is a fine monument, in the early EngUsh style, to the memory of Bishop Brideport, who died December 13, 1262. Near this is a tablet to the memory of the Rev. WilUam Lisle Bowles, a "poet, critic, and divine," who died 7th April, 1850, in the 88th year of his age. A beautiful stone monument wiU be observed, to the memory of Bishop Burgess, which, like many other modern monuments and tablets in the church, reflects credit upon Messrs. Osmond and Son, the sculptors. Against the south wall of the eastern transept is the monument of Bishop Seth Ward, who has, however, a more enduring memo rial in the Widows' College founded by him and described in a former part of this Guide. In the principal transept are several monuments of interest. Against the south waU is one to the celebrated Mr. Harris, father of the first Lord Malmesbury — a distinguished scholar and patrofi of the fine arts. On the north of the transept is the monument to the memory of the late Sir Richard Colt Hoare. The deceased is represented seated in a chair ¦with an open book on his knees, in the act of writing. The drapery is a loose morning gown. The likeness is said to be very accurate, and the countenance is grave and digni fied. This fine work of art is from the chisel of Mr. E. C. Lucas, formerly of this city. On the south waU of the transept is a monument, erected in 1817, to Edward Poore, and Rachel, his wife. The style is florid Gothic, and the work admirably executed. In the same part of the church is a handsome Gothic monument to the memory of Bishop Fisher, who died May 6th, 1826, and was buried in St. George's Chapel, Windsor. On the south side of the nave, near the western door, is a handsome marble monument to the memory of Thomas Lord Wyndham, Ireland. It is surmounted by a figure of Hibemia, from the chisel of Bysbrack. THE MONUMENTS. 47 Between the pillars of the nave are some interesting altar- tombs and monuments, removed from other parts of the church by Wyatt. Some of these axe genuine, and others are made up by the false taste of that daring innovator. The verger will point out and describe the various tombs and monuments; and to him we would refer the visitor for many interesting details, necessarily omitted from want of space, in this little work. We would mention, however, one or two others in passing. On the south side is an effigy of a Bishop, in pontificalibus, ¦with a crozier piercing a dragon. This is supposed to have been brought from Old Sarum with the bones of Bishop JoceUne in 1226. Near this is a monument attributed to the memory of WUliam Longspee, son of the Earl of SaUsbury, of that name. He was one of the noble band of Crusaders, who fought under St. Louis, and died in action near Cairo in 1250. He was buried in the church of the Holy Cross at Acre. At the head of the Templar is one of the niost curious monu ments in the church, which long lay buried under the seats near the pulpit, where it was discovered about the year 1680. This monument is that of a youth, in episcopal vestments, -with a mitre on his head, and holding a crozier in his hand : and so far as can now be ascertained, the foUowing is the origin of the memorial : — On the eve of St. Nicholas' day the choristers attended the cathedral in state, for the purpose of electing their choral bishop, the other choristers acted the part of prebendaries. The spec tacle annuaUy drew crowds to -witness it; and it was not only tolerated by the real dignitaries of the cathedral, but express re gulations were made to prevent the boys from any interruption or annoyance. They entered the church by the west door, preceded by the Dean, Canons, and Chaplains, foUowed by the Boy Bishop, in fuU pontificals, with pastoral staff and mitre, surrounded by the other mimic dignitaries. They advanced in procession up 48 THE steangee's handbook to SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. the nave, chauntiSg, and on reaching the altar of the Holy Trinity and All Saints, the boy bishop took his seat, the other choristers occupying the highest seats next to him ; the resident canons bearing the incense, and the minor canons the tapers. Full service was then performed, including the collect stUl retained, "0 Almighty God, who out of the mouths of babes and sucklings has ordained strength," &c. The ceremony was forbidden by royal proclamation in 1542 by Henry the Eighth; it was revived during the reign of Mary; and finally abolished in that of EUzabeth. The curious tomb on the south side of the nave with three circular openings on each side is the monument of Lord Stourton, who was hanged by a sUken cord in the market-place of Salis bury, on the 6th of March, 1556, for the murder of Mr. HartgiU and his son, at Kilmington, Somerset. So lately as 1775 a t^wisted wire, with a noose representing a halter, was suspended above the tomb, indicative of "what death he did die." We pass over many other interesting memorials of the mighty dead, which the visitor wUl explore for himself, and find his own reward in so doing. CL0ISTEE9 49 CHAPTEE V. The Library, containing a copy of the Magna Charta and other Ancient llan- uscripts, &c. — The Cloisters — The Chapter House and its Sculpture — The Burying Ground, &c., &c. " Memorial of olden time. Telling of the feudal prime; . And the glorious pageantry. Waking heart and kindling eye. And now by a doorway in the south west angle of the gi'est transept, let us emerge from the body of the church and " Walk the studious cloister pale." But let us first ascend to the Libeaet. This was built by Bishop Jewell, and partly furnished with books by Bishop Gheast and some of his successors. The collection is not an extensive one, but it contains some valuable works on history and divinity. There are also about 180 manuscripts, some of which are rare and interesting : amongst them are an Anglo Saxon version of the Gregorian Liturgy; and an early copy of Geoffrey of Monmouth. Amongst the Chapter Records is a copy of Magna Charta, supposed to be the transcript which was en trusted to William Longspee, Earl Salisbury, who was one of the witnesses to the original deed. The Cloisters are greatly admired, and have been spoken of as "one of the finest ornamental inclosures in the kingdom." They are built in the form of a quadrangle ; and occupy the space between the west front and the great transept, and measure fiom out to out of the walls 195 feet. There is a covered way, inclosing a space of 18 feetj running around each side of the quadrangle; and the open space in the centre is turfed, and used as II burial place for the inhabitants of the Close. These cloisters were for many years in a neglected state ; but they were restored by the late Bishop Denison, chiefly at his own expense, and now present a beautiful appearance. There are two cedar trees in the centre of the green, aud nea-.- tliem lie the remains of Bishop Denison, who died the 6th of March, 1854, and those of his wife. 50 THE steangee's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET CATHEDEAL. Louisa Mary Denison, who died September 22nd, 1841. The ambulatory is divided from the open space by large open win dows between strong buttresses which support the roof. The -windows nearly correspond in style with the other parts of the cathedral : they are divided into four openings by a clustered column in the centre, and two single shafts. The tracery above is considered a fine specimen of the skiU of the architect. From the south west comer a very fine view of the tower and spire is to be obtained. From the eastern side of the cloisters opens a vestibule and double doorway, which forms the entrance to the Chapteb House. It is an octagon, and the dimensions are about 58 feet in dia meter, and about 52 feet in height. The style is of later date than the body of the cathedral, being of what is technically known as the early decorated or geometrical pointed style. On entering the interior of the buUding, the first thing that strikes one is the exquisitely light and beautiful proportions of the edifice. It is lighted by eight windows, a window between each buttress, and these are all divided into four lights by their mul lions of tall thin shafts. Six sides of the building correspond in character, and a stone seat is continued around seven of the sides. The east side has a raised seat, one step above the others, and is said to have been intended for the Bishop and six of the principal dignitaries of the chapter. The other side having seven niches in each, were intended for the canons, and the seats upon each side of the doorway were for the Chancellor and Treasurer respectively. The shafts dividing the niches are of Purbeck marble with enriched capitals of exquisite foliage ; and the upper mouldings of the canopies spring from grotesque heads . We have now completed our survey of this magnificent Gothic Temple ; and we feel assured that the impression left on the mind of the visitor will bear out all we have said of the beauty and impressiveness of the edifice. THE END. '¦*^J,A '¦'"-»'¦ ¦*^M^-'^-.- Jms# PuM'ished, a New Edition cf M S T 11 11 E 11 E PI G E ¦ fk. ITS SITUiTiON & OKIGIN? PRICE ON E ¦ SHILLING. •ml -"[" ;yl! . s;,T.nBrKy : ;..t'3'n-.-,^ EijUARl. HOB, PUBLISHED, QUEEN STREET v K yf' »<^ig , 3 9002 08854 1538