REFERENCE ifjj. Sfi '3Di U^' ' ''fJ'^€^ P3 ^ ^m^ . . : - ¦ V ' "-: r- f ^ 5>--f Xy, f ^ t^ Yale Center for British Art and British Studies ^mr. I 1-1- USX RAX ED EDIXIOK. .W. ?i^ ^ kA [all HKill 1 . kl''.K!.VKii, J TME NEW GUIDE ^¦*»^»^»^»'Si"»-»»»'^"«'%*.*i.-^-*' of I* (%i (^OMPRLSINO ,\ I'.RIKF HISTORY OF Tl)e Monastery . . . . . . from its Foundation, ;;•/,'// A DESCKIl'l'r.'R .-U r,il'N/' (JI-' ITS ARCHITECTURAL PECULIARITI IS, rOMI'lLEU PROM THE Works of GuntoHy Britton^ Garbett^ and others. A SHfIRT AcLOirNT OF THE '^\\tl% of O^towkttdi & %\wiu% TMF WHOLF RRVISED AND CORRElTEH BV THE REV. W. D. SWEETING, M.A., (¦»./»»- of Holy Trinity. K atktrltithe, I.mdDn, S.E., andjmmerly Hr.ui Muster ,'/ llir King's School, Ptttrltorough. TO WHICH IS ADDED A SHORT GUIDE TO THE CITY. PRTKBBOROIUWI : ll\' <,KO. C. CASihK, MARKKT '^ F»RICE ONE SMIULI N G . ZS^ >^ Selected List of Works Published by GEO. C. CASTER, PRINTER AND BOOKSELLER, MARKET PLACE, PETERBOROUGH. LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS OF HUNTINGDONSHIRE. By yf. H. Bkbnibd SAVHCnis, F.R. HUt. Soc. Demv 8ro., 30.3 pasM, illuitrated with Collotype ft Woodbury prlnti, Bozburgh Binding. Prloe 16/- PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL. A general Arobitectnral and Monattio Hiitory. By Thomas Ciuiidock. Fop. fo., S34 pagei, boards, 8/6; cloth B/-, May alio be had bound tn any deiorlption to order, with or without photographs. THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF PETERBOROUGH and THE ABBEYS OF OBOWLAND AND THORNHY. A Mew Guide. Bdlt«d and Revised to date by the Hiv. W. D. SweitMS, M.A. Price «d,, or on large paper, illustrated 1/-. NOTES ON THE TWENTY PARISH CHURCHES in the five mile (rircle round Peterborough, oomprUing Alwalton, Castor, Bve, Faroet, Fletton. Olinton, Helpston, Marhoim. Orton Longueviile, Orton Watervllle, Paston, Peaiiirk, Stanground, Thorpe, Waternewton, Werrington, Whittlesey (St. MarvJ, Whittlesey rSt. Andrew), Woodstoa, and Yaxley. By F. A. Paubt, M.A. Paper covers, 1/- j cloth, 1/6. PHOTOGRAPHS OF PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL in various sizes, at 4d. and upwards. FENLAND NOTES AND QUERIES, a Quarterly Antiquarian Journal (or the Fenland. Published Ist January, April, July, and October. Price 1/8. Vols. I., II„ III., A IV., now ready, handsomely bound, price 16/-. THE SHOWER OF PEARLS. By Charlotte Phillips. A collection of Poems suitable tor Home aud Suhool use. Utb edition. Demy 13mo.. cloth limp. Illustrated, 8d. WILD FLOWERS. Being a list ot varieties found in the neighbour hood of Peterborough. By F. A. Palev, M.A. Price 1/-. DIOCESE OF PETERBOROUGH. Various Forms, Institution, Induction, Oonseomtion, Ac,, Ao, Detailed List on appilostlon. FORMS, &o. (Used by the Peterborough Mothers' Union.) Detailed List on application. THE PETERBOROUGH DIRECTORY, including about seventy adjacent TOWNS, A VILLAQBS, 6/-. NEW MAP OF 70 MILES ROUND PETERBOROUGH scale 5 Miles to an Inch. Roads and County boundaries coloured, in doth case 1/- ; on linen in oaae «/- ; on rollers, varnished S/-. ALBUM OF PETERBOROUGH VIEWS, containing Photographic reproductions of the Cathedral, City, and Crowland Abbey, iu iiandsome mso 1/-. m z o U- s-Ul UlI H I1.1.USTRATBD EDITIOW. [all rights reserved.] THE NEW GUIDE COMPRISING A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE MONASTERY FROM ITS FOUNDATION, WITH A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF ITS ARCHITECTURAL PECULIARITIES AND MOST RECENT IMPROVEMENTS & WORKS OF RESTORATION. COMPILED FROM THE Works of Gunton^ Britton^ Garbett^ and others. REVISED AND CORBECTHD BV THE REV. W. D. SWEETING, M.A., Vicar of Holy Trinity., Rotherkitke, Lofidon, S.£.; late Head Master of the King's School, Peterborough. TO WHICH IS ADDED A QUIDE TO THE CITY. PETERBOROUGH \ PUBLISHED BV GEO. C CASTER, MARKET PLACE. PRINTED BY GEO. i_ CASTER, AT HIS PRINTING OFFICE IN THE "kING'S LODGINGS," WITHIN THE MINSTER PRECINCTS, PETERBOROUGH. INTEODUCTION. The object of the following pages is to supply a hand book to the Cathedral and Cathedral buildings which visitors can carry with them as they walk, and which may serve to call their attention to the chief points of interest, and to the most remarkable featwres of the architecture ; and at the same time to provide an account of the history of the monastery and the fabric, which they can subsequently peruse at their leisure. But while an account of a large building of historical value and importance, which aims at being both a guide and a history, must necessarily be divided into two distinct parts; the one treating of the building as we see it now, and the other of former buildings, and tJie gradual growth of those existing, and the various alterations, the improve ments, and sometimes (unhappily) the defacements which have been effected from time to time ; it will readily be seen that considerable difficulty attends the carrying out of such a plan. It is almost impossible to avoid occasionally repeating in the latter portion what has already been said in the former. It is hard to draw a strict and accurate line between the two. The history will sometimes appear in the guide, and descriptions of some portions of the building will seem to be needed in the history. A hand book, to be of any practical utility, must be fairly concise: a visitor has little time to study the history of a cathedral iv. INTRODUCTION. at the same moment that he is examining the fabric. A history, if condensed and abbreviated too much, degenerates into a mere sketch : it ought rather, by comment, and criticism, and iUustration, to be capable of enlargement into a considerable volume. The limits assigned to the present guide do not allow the historical portion to be exhaustive ; it is a chronological account and not a full history ; but if it is found to be fairly comprehensive, and if no material facts are omitted, a condensation will perhaps secure a larger number of readers than a more elabcn-ate work. TJie present guide is founded upon that of the late Mr. G. S. Phillips, the last edition of which was issued in 1881. That had been compiled from the works of Gunton, Britton, and otJier authors. His viaterials have been re-arrajujed, with considerable additions. The re searches of recent years have solved some disputed questions ; and in particular the numerous and impm-tant discoveries made during the recent restoration and rebuilding have definitely set at rest all doubts as to the exact position of the Saxmi church. Much of the descriptive portion of a guide published in 1881 ivould of course be no longer correct. As it has been felt that the notice of the recent work should be somewhat full, some of the longer quotations, given in the last edition, from works easily accessible, have been shortened or omitted. petetbotouGb (TatbcbraL CHAPTER I. A -WALK BOUND THE PEBCINCTS. "IjEFOEE entering the Cathedral the visitor's at- "^ tention is arrested by numerous examples of _^ W ancient architecture that formed part of the T monastic buildings. It -will, perhaps, be desirable to give first a description of these, as -well as of those external features of the Cathedral itself -which ought especially to be noticed. We recommend that the visitor should commence his examination -with the objects of interest in the Minster Close, the name given to the open space bet-ween the Cathedral and the western gate- -way, and should then -walk round the precincts, beginning vj-ith the north side. First, then, is the ancient -western gate-way, built by Benedict, and though it has been much altered, a considerable part of the original structure remains. As we look at it from the Market-place we observe that there is a fifteenth century look about it ; and on closer inspection we see that a Perpendicular arch has been built in front of the Norman arch, and that a facing of the same date has been carried above. Here is an arcade with the alternate panels pierced for windows. On each side of the gateway are good Norman arcades ; the doorway in the arcade on the north opens into a residence, that on the south to the room above the gateway. This was formerly the chapel of S. Nicholas, On the eastern side is a three- B 2 PETBEBOEOUGH OATHEDBAL. light window, evidently a late insertion, and evidently an adaptation. It was said to be part of a shrine, of which part still remains in the new building ; and the statement has been repeated over and over again ; but it is difficult to see any resemblance between the two. The chapel over the gateway has been put to various uses since the dissolution of monasteries. In 1617 it was assigned to the porter as part of his residence. At a later period it was let. It has also served the purposes of a muniment room, a Masonic lodge room, a tailor's work shop, a practising room for the choristers, and a class-room for the Grammar School. In the flourishing days of the Gentlemen's Society, when men met and read papers, the meetings were held here. The Society was founded in 1730, as a sort of branch of the Spalding society, "for the promotion of friendship and literature," and was dissolved in 1899, when its library, containing many valuable books, was presented to the City Free Library. On the left hand, as we pass through the gate, is all that remains of the chapel of Thomas k Becket. It is the chancel of a much larger building. Originally the chapel was built by Waterville and finished by Benedict : it was therefore of Norman date. In the latter part of the • fourteenth century the present chancel was built. While the east window, with its graceful net tracery, and very elegant cross above, might suggest a somewhat earlier date, a glance at the side windows, which are distinctly of transitional character, tells that 1360 or 1370 may be assigned as the period of erection. The abbey, in 1408, gave the nave of the chapel to the town, to assist in re building the parish church on its present site : but the chancel had been too recently l^uilt to be removed. Since the establishment of the Cathedral the chancel seems to have been always used as the Cathedral Grammar School, until the year 1885, when the School was removed to new buildings on the Park Eoad. It was then used for the collections of the Natural History and Archseological Society. The eighteenth century houses of red brick, till lately called ' ' The Terrace, " were the residences of the Masters, THE WEST PSONT. 6 All the ancient monastic buildings in this part of the close, the Plumber's Office, the Sister House (whatever that may have been), and the Treasurer's Office, have long disappeared. The Minster Almshouses, adjoining the wall of the Deanery garden, are the only buildings on the north side. The door immediately to the right of the great gateway into the close leads to a vaulted chamber which was once the gaol. A few steps bring us to a very magnificent gateway, which leads to the Bishop's palace, over which is a chamber, called the Knights' chamber. This gateway is of Early English date, with a fine groined roof. The gates and postern are placed at some distance from the outer archway, adding greatly to the dignity and effect of the whole composition. The delicate arcading of the sides, and the excellent clustered shafts, are good examples of the period ; unfortunately the bases of the shafts are now hidden by accumulation of earth. On the north and south faces are long niches with figures : three on the north are said to be King Edward II., and the Abbot and Prior of the time : those on the south are Apostles. The line of buildings to the east of this gateway is now occupied by offices. As will be seen at once much is wholly modern ; but near the Cathedral is some medisBval work, and the office at the end, on the ground floor, has a good stone groined roof. This is believed to hav.e been the Penitentiary. We come now to the great feature of the Cathedral, the west front. Few will be inclined to dispute what an eminent architectural authority says of it, that it is the "finest portico in Europe." As will be seen hereafter, it did not form a part of the original design. No descrip tion could adequately convey a correct idea of the grandeur of this beautiful composition. Sometimes the front of Wells Cathedral is adduced as a rival ; but the designs are so wholly different that they cannot fairly be compared ; while surely none would question the assertion that for striking effect no west front in England will compare with that of Peterborough. 4 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. At each end are turrets crowned with spires ; their elegance and good proportions giving them an appearance of greater loftiness than they really possess. The space between these turrets is filled by the great portico, con sisting of three pointed arches — the centre being the narrowest — which rest on triangular piers. In the three gables are circular windows, not all alike ; the whole front seems covered with mouldings and brackets, panel work and tracery, parapets and pinnacles, niches with figures, and clusters of shafts. In nearly all the accounts of the building the state ment is repeated that the side spires are of equal height. But that on the south, sometimes called, from its being near the palace, the "Bishop's Spire, " is manifestly some feet higher than the other. Behind the northern arch is the bell tower, and a similar tower was designed for the southern arch, but, as it seems, never finished. A few feet of the structure can be seen rising behind the south gable. It has been usual to speak of the absence of a south-western tower as a blemish ; and the authorities have been urged to make an effort to complete one. But it is very doubtful if the effect of the whole composition would be improved thereby : unless, indeed, there could be erected a central tower that by its superior height would dominate the whole group. It is also customary to regret the presence of the central porch and room above^ as interfering with the dignity of the complete design, and as materially diminishing the noble effect of the grand arches. But here again many persons will be disposed to question the accuracy of such a criticism ; and not a few maintain the addition to the middle arch to be an improvement. With the exception of this porch, and the spires, the whole of the west front is in the purest and best Early English style, and must have been erected some time during the first quarter of the thirteenth century. "In the progress of great undertakings it not un frequently happens that fresh objects present themselves to the mind, which at first were not thought of. Such appears to have been the case in respect of this Cathedral, THE WEST E'EONT. 0 the architect of which, while completing the front, seems to have caught a new idea — that of erecting two lofty turrets beyond the outer angles of the transept, towards the west, and of converting the intermediate space into a sort of piazza, by arches constructed in front of the nave and closed in above by a vaulted roof. This idea, so unique and at the same time so splendid, he was enabled to realize : and posterity, at the distance of six centuries, beholds with ineffable delight and admiration, a composi tion, the outlines and details of which, by their beauty and variety, render it one of the noblest fa9ades in existence. Towards the north and south are two lofty turrets, flanked at the angles by clustered shafts, rising from a projecting base and crowned with spires, the height of which from the ground, makes a square with the breadth of the front. The space between these turrets is occupied by three pointed arches, reaching the whole height of the upper walls of the nave, and resting on triangular piers, which are faced with clustered shafts like those of the turrets, and terminate in octangular pinnacles, resting each upon a square basement, and divided by a moulding into two stages, the upper one of which is perforated with narrow lights, edged with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. The sides of the piers are lined with isolated columns in channelled recesses, each column sustaining a ribbed moulding of the arch above, and the whole series being finished with interlaced and foliated capitals. ' ' The centre arch is narrower than the outer ones, the reason of which will appear when we look at the situa tion of the doorways opening into the side aisles of the nave. Had the architect designed the three arches of equal breadth, the piers which sustain the centre arch must have stood immediately in front of these doorways, or the outer arches must have been so contracted as to bring the turrets within the line of the transept, and thereby conceal, in part at least, the toWers behind. "This circumstance of itself shows that the turrets, piers, and arches, as they now exist, formed no part of the original plan. The interstices between the pillars 6 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. which sustain the centre arch dilier from those of the outer arches, in that they are chequered at regular distances with clumps of foliage, as if exuberance of ornament were designed to compensate for inequahty in other respects. This inequality has been still further obviated by the erection of a porch, which, after a minute inspection, appears to have been inserted by way of support to the central piers, both of which had previously swerved from the perpendicular, as may still be seen. Over each arch rises a lofty pediment bounded by the wave and billet ornaments, and surmounted by a per forated cross. The spandrils formed by the base of the pediment and the arches beneath, severally contain, first, a deeply recessed quatrefoil, above this two trefoil arches, and still higher two pointed arches, resting on slender pillars, and filled with statues, — and also a hexagon, the featherings of which clasp a human head. ' ' The pediments contain each a large circular light, with other apertures and niches. The circle of the central pediment is divided by mullions into eight lights, under trefoil arches radiating from an orb. Those on the sides are divided into six lights, the featherings of which are very beautiful. The mullions, or radii, are all faced with smaU pillars and capitals, and lined with the dog- toothed quatrefoil. The outer moulding of the central circle is composed of closely compacted trefoils, that of the others has the wave ornament. At the base of each circle is a series of trefoil arches, resting on isolated columns, four of which admit light into an apartment above the vaulting, and three contain statues. The intermediate spaces formed by the circle and the pedi ment, contain two niches, one on each side and another above, all filled with statues. The niche in the apex of the central pediment contains a statue, apparently of St. Peter, to whom the church is dedicated, representing the Apostle with the mitre, pall, keys, and other insignia of the Bishop of Eome. "The turrets, before mentioned, are divided by the round moulding and string courses into six stages, which are empannelled in front with arches of different forms THE WEST FRONT. 7 and dimensions. In the first stage from the ground, and rising from a channelled base, are two lofty pointed arches resting on slender pillars. In the second stage are four trefoil arches similarly supported ; this range is continued round the facings of the inner wall immediately over the doorways, and forms the base of the windows. The third stage contains one pointed arch, intersected by a pillar in the centre, with curved mouldings, forming two lesser arches : which last are again subdivided by piUars sustaining one circular arch in the centre, and segments of arches on the sides. ' ' The interstices above contain two trefoil arches, with brackets at the base for the figures. The mouldings of the outer arch, with the sides of the pillars and all the sub-divisions, are studded with the dog-toothed quatrefoil. In the fourth stage, are two deeply recessed pointed arches, resting on clustered pillars ; immediately over these is a string course of stemmated trefoils, which is continued round the front, the transepts, and the base of the north-west tower, together with the more modern base towards the south. In the fifth stage are four trefoil arches, like those of the second stage : these lie parallel with those at the base of the pediments, already described, and with those also of the side transepts. The sixth stage contains four long and narrow pointed arches, having corbels in the space above, and resting, like the whole series of arches below, on slender isolated columns, with prominent foliated capitals : above these is a string course of rosettes, forming the base of the parapet. Thus far the two turrets are strictly uniform ; but in the parapets, by which they are surmounted, and in the pinnacles, which terminate the clustered- shafts, there is a marked difference. ' ' The parapet of the north turret consists of the wave ornament, with double featherings and intersections : the pinnacles at the angles are hexagonal, corbelled at the base of the pyramid with human heads, and finished above with crockets and finials. ' ' The parapet of the south turret contains a series of quatrefoils, while the pinnacles at the angles are beauti- 8 PBTEEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. fully blended with the clustered shafts, so as to form a regular and continuous course and termination ; the mouldings are carried up in high pointed pediments, and from these a cinquefoil arch at each angle, surmounted also by a pediment, with a quatrefoil in the spandril, connects them with the spire in the centre, and sustains a lofty triangular pinnacle, which, like the pediments below, is decorated with crockets and a finial. In this respect the south spire differs from the other, which has no connection with the side pinnacles. Both are pierced with pointed windows in two ranges, four in each range, divided by mullions, and crowned with crocketted pedi ments ; and the apex of each is terminated by a finial and cross, included in the extensive repairs carried on by the present dean* and chapter. ' ' The style of these spires, with the parapets and pinnacles, marks them out as a later work than the turrets beneath ; and we may infer from the similarity of their details to those of the porch, that they formed a part of the repairs and alterations which the whole front appears to have undergone when the appendage was inserted t; and when the central window of the nave was enlarged, and that, and the others which now enliven the inner wall, were filled with perpendicular tracery. The porch is vaulted with stone, and is entered by an obtuse arch, over which is an elliptical window, divided by mullions into six lights under cinquefoil arches, which are again subdivided in the head into lesser arches. "The spandrils formed by the curve of the arch, and the base of the window, are enriched with circles, clasp ing shields of arms, and rosettes with other devices. The arch and window are bounded by buttresses, which are broken by offsets and empannelled with niches. Besides these, the porch is flanked with staircases, one on each side, forming three parts of an octagon, and leading to an apartment now used as a library. The summit is closed in with an embattled parapet, having a pediment » Dean Monk, 1822-1830, afterwards Biahop of Gloucester and Bristol t This is an error. The spire on the eouth is early 14th century work • the central porch and room above are late in that century; and the spire on thl north forty or fifty years stiU later in date. ^ THE WEST PEONT. 9 at each end, and one in the centre. The surface of the walls is enriched with canopied niches, pilasters, brackets, panel work, and string courses in all the wildness and profusion which distinguish the last stage of gothic architecture. Besides the arch before mentioned the porch has two smaller arches, north and south, parallel with the piazza formed by the great arches and piers of the front, and keeping up the communication with its opposite extremi ties. Over these also are mullioned windows with blank interstices. ' ' The great window of the nave, the outer arch of which is obviously an alteration from the original designs, is divided by mullions into five lights, — those of the side aisles into three lights, both under cinquefoil arches, and the lancet window of the transepts into two lights, under trefoil arches : these windows are parted, each by an embattled transome into an upper and lower range of lights, and the heads filled with subordinate tracery. ' ' The door-ways beneath are exceedingly rich, and in point of execution and delicacy of detail perhaps the finest portions of the front. 'The central door-way is divided by a pillar, rising from a carved cylindrical base into two smaller arches ; but the whole design and finish cannot be made out, in consequence of the introduction of the porch, the foundation and hutments of which are built against it. "The arches of the side door-ways are lined with isolated columns, receding in the manner of perspective ; the ribbed mouldings between these columns, the inter laced and pendent foliage of the capitals, and the multi plied mouldings of which the arches above are composed, cannot be too closely examined, or too much admired. This is that peculiar style of gothic architecture, in which the beauty of the pointed arch, with its accompaniments, is best discerned ; and therefore it is that judges are wont to give it the preference over all subsequent alterations and refinements. The spaces between these door-ways, like those of the windows over them, are empannelled with pointed arches, subdivided by smaller arches, and resting on slender pillars. 10 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. "From the brief description thus given of this stately front, the reader will perceive that it was begun in one age, and finished, as we now behold it, in another. Some discrepancies of style may therefore be expected to present themselves, but these are so eclipsed by the grandeur of its leading features, that the eye takes in the whole as a single conception, and overlooks, in its con templation of such a magnificent association of objects, the marks of difference that exist between the efforts of earlier and later genius." — {Garbett, quoted by Britton, 61-66.) The foregoing description is from the pen of one who had devoted special attention to the architectural details of the west front ; he was Head Master of the Grammar School, and Minor Canon. A few additional observa tions may be of use. There can be little doubt that the effect of the whole is improved by the inequality of width of the three great arches, for, if the gables had been of unequal angles, the result would have been less satis factory. Wisely, therefore, these angles have been made equal ; and the device of the architect to secure this, by making the central gable rise from points somewhat higher than the others, is admirable. There are thirty figures remaining in the niches. The uppermost repre sent the Apostles Peter, Paul, and Andrew, the first- named being in the middle. The keys in the left hand are very conspicuous. No attempt has been made to identify the other figures. Most of these were of course carved at the time of the erection of the front ; but one or two appear of earlier date, and may possibly have been remains of the embellishments of the Saxon church, The northern of the three arches was in imminent risk of falling down in the seventeenth century."* Some of the stones may very likely have been loosened from their places. "The inequality of the arches has been variously accounted for. Perhaps the real reason may be found in the following suggestion. The gable • Bishop Laney contributed £100 <• toward the repairing ot one of the great THE bishop's SPIEE AND DEANERY GATEWAY. 11 above the centre arch is a real gable, it is the honest termination of the nave roof ; whereas the other two gables have only lesser roofs built on purpose for the gables.* The two central piers of the front must there fore be built so as to support the existing nave roof and to fit it, however far the extremities of the front itself should extend. They had to support, moreover, a heavy stone arch, and would have to be more massive than the nave pier, which had only to support a wooden roof, and the width between the piers would thus be necessarily less than beitween two opposite nave piers. These two piers being fixed, the outer ones might be as distant aa was wished. In the interior of the roof this theory receives some little confirmation. The walls supporting the nave roof are distant, from each other 37ft. Sin. From the end of the nave roof to the interior of the west front is 50 feet. But at half this distance the stone walls cease, and the timbers begin to widen, and at the front itself they are 39 feet 4 inches apart. And this looks as if the architect made the arch as wide as he could consistently with the double object of supporting the new stone arch and the old nave roof. " {Sweeting, 28.) The visitor's attention is particularly directed to the remarkable grace and beauty of the spire on the south. There are not only pinnacles at the four corners, which are square in section, but also another set of very elegant triangular pinnacles, resting on the arches of connection between the corner pinnacles and the central spire. The whole forms a most graceful and elegant group. In the north-eastern corner of the close is the gateway to the Deanery, a fine specimen of architecture. In the spandrels above the great four-centred arch are two coats of arms, one with the keys and crosslets, the other with the swords and crosses. These are now the arms of the See and the Cathedral respectively. To what they belonged when this gate was erected it is difficult to say. Had the Abbot and the Prior different armorial bearings before the Eeformation ? Above the smaller door is a * To the true artist this point, the fact of the outside gables being shams, js the sliy;le blemish In the whole. 12 PBTEEBOROUGH CATHEDEAL. boldly carved rebus of the Abbot in whose time the gateway was erected, a church on a tun, for Eobert Kirton (Kirk-ton). His initials in stone are also carved beneath the parapet. Several of the details are worthy of attention. We find the Tudor rose and portcullis ; the arms of S. Edward and of S. Edmund, King and Martyr ; the triangular symbol of the Holy Trinity ; the Prince of Wales' feathers, an early example in stone. The date is about 1520. Through an open archway to the east we enter the burial ground. Until 1804 this was the only place of burial for the whole city. On the left we see the Deanery, but nothing of antiquity is to be seen from the exterior. The churchyard has been planted with shrubs and trees, and is well kept. From the north eastern corner is one of the most striking views of the building, taking in the whole of its great length, the bell-tower and north-western spire forming a most effective group from this point of view. It should be here noted how the Norman aisles have been raised, and ' tracery of later date inserted in the windows. The five- light windows in the aisles are of the latter part of the thirteenth century : the three-light windows above them some fifty or sixty years later. It was for the insertion of these latter that the aisle walls were raised. The Norman arcading that remains beneath the windows had in the centre of each bay a round-headed window, and just above was a corbel-table. The present parapet is of the same date as the windows. In the clerestory the old Norman windows remain, but fifteenth century tracery has been inserted. If we look at the western side of the north transept, and imagine the windows without any tracery, and the decorated parapet above the Norman corbel-table removed, we should realise the exact appearance of that portion of the church as it existed in the year 1200. On the eastern side of this transept there is much for the architectural student to observe. The Lady chapel stood against the transept here. The marks of the gable can be clearly seen : and beneath it we can judge, from the windows and arcading s^ T INPIEMAEY AND CLOISTERS. 13 which were exposed when the Lady chapel was removed, the height of the Norman aisles, and arrangement of the windows and arcading. On the north wall of the choir aisle are remains of a small groined building which stood between this aisle and the Lady chapel. The door from the north transept had been blocked until the commence ment of the recent restoration. Proceeding round the east end we see the new building, often (from its position) erroneously called the Lady chapel, the latest addition to the Cathedral ; it was erected, or rather completed, by Kirton. It is of excellent Perpendicular work, the buttresses terminating in seated figures. These are twelve in number. If, as usually stated, they represent the twelve Apostles, it is no longer possible to distinguish them by their several emblems or symbols. As we turn to the south we come to the ruins of the infirmary. These on no account should be passed by. The plan was very similar to a large church with aisles. But the nave was the hall, the aisles were the quarters of the inmates, and the chancel was the chapel of the institution. Many of the main arches remain, and are most noteworthy for their elegance. At the west end can be seen a very good piece of arcading. The large arch, now blocked up and forming a wall for one of the prebendal houses, which is seen to the east, was the arch leading to the chapel. The whole is of the best Early English period, and was erected about 1260. Proceeding round to the southern side of the Cathedral, we enter the square, where are the ruins of the cloisters, through a fine old door-way with a pointed arch, surmounting others of a circular form, and enriched with mouldings and figures. The southern and western walls of the cloisters remain, and contain a singular variety of tracery, mouldings, columns, and door-ways. Two doorways to the southern aisle of the nave are also seen in the cloisters — one having a semicircle arch, with archivolt mouldings, enriched with the chevron and other Norman ornaments ; the other in the pointed or gothic style, with raised mouldings, and supported by slender shafts 14 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. at the sides.* At the south-western extremity of the cloisters is another door-way, of the same style and character as that by which we entered them, which leads through the Bishop's garden to the palace. These two gateways are of very excellent design ; both are of thirteenth century work. In the south and west walls can be seen remains of different dates, shewing that at least two different sets of cloisters were erected. The remains of the lavatory, in the south wall, are of Per pendicular date : while in the west wall are some features which were in their present position before a single stone of the existing Cathedral had been laid. Two of the Norman buttresses of the south aisle have terminations which may well puzzle any observer. They are fire places for the use of plumbers. Passing along the western wall of the cloisters we go through a plain Norman door-way, which brings us again, by a narrow passage, to the west front of the Cathedral. CHAPTER II. THE INTEEIOE. 'ITH very few exceptions, to be noted here after, the whole of the interior of the Cathedral is in the Norman style. Many judge it to be the most perfect specimen in England. The plan consists of a nave of ten bays with aisles, and a western transept: transepts of four 'bays, * Britton, in speaking of these door-wavs sava " Tha™ =>« i ^ rurt.i2^.*^|^r^fy-„«'te°rU^^^^^^ THE WBSTBEN TEANSBPT. 15 with eastern aisles, the south transept having also on the west a groined chamber extending its whole length ; a choir of four bays, terminating in an apse nearly semi circular, with aisles ; and beyond the apse a large square addition (built in the fifteenth century) for more chapels, having a groined stone roof of fan tracery, now known as the new building. The ritual choir, as distinguished from the architectural choir, extends two bays into the nave. As we enter at the west we see at a glance the whole length. To trace the progress of the building we ought to commence at the apse, as that was the part flrst begun, and to make our way westward. But if we bear in mind the fact that the whole took rather over a hundred years to complete, and that as we stand at the extreme west we are where the work was finished, it will be unnecessary to attempt to distinguish the several periods of building activity during that time. But before going in to the Cathedral, as we stand under the great porch at the west end, we should not fail to notice the remarkable boss in the centre. The Almighty is represented, in the mediaeval fashion, as the Ancient of Days, with the crucified Saviour in front, while the Holy Spirit, in the form of a Dove, appears over the right shoulder. Freemasons in especial should observe it. The great western transept is of remarkable character. The strange mixture of Norman and Early English, the massive pointed arches with heavy zigzag mouldings, the round arches to the doors and pointed arcading between them, all demonstrate the care and skill with which the builders at the beginning of the thirteenth century strove to complete a design that should not be out of harmony with the intentions of the builders of a century before. Numerous details in the work, which the architectural student will have no difficulty in detecting, will confirm this thought. The nave piers are not all of the same design, and this divergence in shape greatly relieves the effect of heaviness. The third pier from the west on each side is at once seen to be entirely unlike the rest. It is larger and wider than the others ; it projects further 16 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. into the aisles. "The arch also, springing from it westward, is of a much greater span. The opposite vaulting shafts, in the aisle walls, are brought forward, beyond the line of the rest, to meet the pillars in question, so that the arch across the aisles is, in this part, very much contracted, and instead of being a mere groin rib like the rest, is a strong moulded arch of considerable depth in the soffit. What appears, at first sight, still more strange, the wall of the aisles opposite to the wider nave-arch just mentioned, is brought forward at least a foot internally, but again retires to the old level at the last bay ; so that in this particular part the whole thick ness of the aisle-wall is considerably greater." Mr. Paley, who first carefully observed and recorded these various peculiarities, concludes (and the conclusion is irresistible) that it was here that the original builders meant to place their western towers. Possibly, indeed, one or both may have actually been built. At any rate here still remain the foundations. ' ' The transformation of the base of these two immense towers into a compart ment of the aisle, so similar to all the rest, that its real nature has never been hitherto suspected, is highly ingenious. It is only when once detected that the anomalies above mentioned are at all intelligible." {Paley, 21-23.) The aisles are groined : but the nave has a very remarkable painted ceiling. The divisions are of a lozenge shape ; in each lozenge of the central line is a figure, and in each alternate one of the side lines. Some of these figures are sacred, some grotesque. We can identify S. Peter with the keys ; we find kings, queens, and minstrels ; we can also see a head with two faces, a monkey riding backwards on a goat, a human figure with the head and hoofs of an ass, a horse playing a harp, a winged dragon, and a dancing lion. There seems little doubt that the greater part of this nave ceihng is the original Norman work. But that must have been flat, as those in the transepts are still. When the great west arch of the central tower was altered to the pointed arch that we now see, the middle BELL TOWEB. PORCH. LIBHARY ABO^Tl FONTLAVATORIESSITE OK NAVB OF SaXOS CHURCH. FOUNDATIONS OF SAXON CHURCH. SAXON -MOSUMKNTAL &LAJ33 SITE OF LADY CHAPEL, DESTROYED 1651 NAVH PL'LPIT IN MEMORY OF DR JAMEa. CHOIR GATK3: AND SCREENS IN MEIIOIIY OF DEAN AHGLES BALDACHINO OR ALTAJl CANOI'Y TO MEMORY OK DEAN SAUNDERI. BURIAL PLACE Olt Q: KATHERINE OF ARRAGON .MARY Q. OF SCDT« . AJiBOTS JOHN, MARTIN. AND A.S- DREW EFFIGY OF AN ADUOT EKFIGY OF ATJBOf ALEXANDER. BISHOP CHAMBERS ARCHBISHOP MAGEE. SLAB OF GEOFFREY OF CROYLAND ¦ GEORGE FRAUNCEYS, MONK. THE MONKS STONE. , PULPITTHRONE : LITANY DESK. > EAGLE LSCTEBl). : PRACTISING BOOM ' CHAPEL OF S JAMSa I S JOHN. P 3 OSWALD ) S. BES'ET GROUND PLAN— PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL OOPYRIOHT. Geo. C. Caster, Publisher, Peterborough. THE OHOIE EOOP. 17 part of the nave ceiling had to be raised, or it would have intercepted the apex of the pointed arch. One great authority does indeed assign the whole to the same date as the lantern tower, namely, the fourteenth century. ' ' That the materials of the old ceiling were used in this work I do not at all doubt ; but even here we must demur to the general impression, that the painting is of Benedict's time." {Poole, 215.) Most persons, how ever, adhere to the opinion that the design is the original one ; although, no doubt, as indicated above, the sloping sides must have been altered. The roofs of the rest of the building may be con veniently mentioned here. Those in the transepts are of unquestioned Norman construction. The divisions are in squares, set diagonally ; and, until lately, these squares were simply painted in black and white designs, without any figures or colouring, as in the nave. These also retain the original flat form, and rest simply on shafts and stone ledges, just as the nave ceiling must have done when first erected. During the recent work some parts of the transept roofs were found to be de fective, and required to be replaced. The black and white painting is no longer to be seen, the oak being left plain. The groined wooden roof of the lantern tower should be noticed. This has been of late carefully restored and well painted. In the centre is a representation of the Saviour : eight coloured bosses have the emblems of the Passion : four have the evangelistic symbols. The choir roof is also well worthy of notice. It is vaulted, in wood, but assumes an imitation of the florid pointed style, — being disposed in several compartments by thin ribs. Over the altar end it is painted with an emblematical representation of Christ as a Vine, and the Disciples as the Branches. The remaining portion of the roof, which had been painted white and yellow, has also been restored to its original character, the bosses being gilt and the spandrels painted bright blue and 18 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. richly ornamented. The whole has been done with great taste and judgement. The subject at the apse, the Vine and Branches, is knovm to have been the subject originally painted in that position. The carving of the different bosses in this roof presents features of interest. We can see the cross keys of the patron Saint, the Saviour on the Cross, accompanied by SS. Mary and John, (this is in the central line, near the western end, ) three lilies, three fishes with intersecting tails, and other designs. "The nave and its aisles display a uniform style of architecture in their arches, piers, trif oria, and walls ; but the windows of the clerestory, triforia, and aisles are all of a later date, and are evident insertions in the original walls, — excepting indeed the exterior walls of the triforium, which appear to have been raised, and a new roof formed wheh some great alterations were made to the church. On the eastern side of the transept is an aisle, the southern division of which is separated into three chapels, or oratories, as they were originally appropriated, but now used as appendages to the choir. Over this aisle is a triforium, behind an arched screen, which extends along the aisles of the choir to their junction with the new work." {Britton, 70, 71.) By the "southern division" of the transept aisle is meant the eastern aisle of the south transept. Careful observers will not fail to detect numerous varieties in the capitals, bases, and ornamentation of the piers and arches; although to the unobservant all seem so much alike. Thus in the two bays east of the nave, nearest to the central tower, additional carving in the triforium range proves that the Benedictine choir ex tended into the nave just as the new choir has been made to do. The piers of the choir and transepts are alternately round and polygonal : and in the triforium arches of the choir, above the central shaft in each in stance, is some simple design, but it is in each instance different. Until the year 1827, the choir of this Cathedral was composed of deal painted to resemble oak, and "although in good repair," was generally allowed to be DEAN monk's EBSTOEATION. 19 "unworthy of the magnificent structure to which it belonged." At the suggestion, and under the immediate patronage of the then Dean and Chapter, a subscription was entered into for the purpose of erecting a new choir and organ screen; and the sum of £5021 lis. Od. was shortly obtained towards that object. The architect employed was the celebrated Mr. Blore, who, assisted by Mr. Euddle, of Peterborough, completed the work in 1830. At the same time an organ screen was erected, com posed of clunch stone, and decorated with spiral turrets, having a number of gaudily painted shields in the spandrels, which, together with the rainbow hues of the organ pipes, gave it an appearance rather offensive to modern taste, although strictly in accordance with the rest of the work. On the right of the entrance to the choir was a brass plate with the following inscription : — THIS ORGAN SCEBEN WITH THE CHOIR AND ALTAR SCREEN WAS BEBCTBD A.D. MDCCCXXX. BY SUBSCHIPTION FEOM THE MBMBEKS OF THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH, THE INHABITANTS OP THE CITY AND NEIGHBOURHOOD OF PETBEBOBOUGH, AKD OTHER ADMIBHBS 01" ECCLESIASTICAL AROHITBCTUKB, UNDER THE AUSPICES OP THE VERY REV. JAMES HENRY MONK, D.D., DEAN. The whole of the woodwork then erected has been removed in the course of the late restoration. It was confined to the architectural choir, and entirely east of the transepts. The organ screen has likewise been taken away; the shields, wliich were of metal, and painted with the coats of arms of some of the subscribers of the period, have been preserved in the library. 20 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. It will be seen, as we look at the windows in the apse, that considerable alterations were made in the fourteenth century. The graceful hanging tracery, in the lower range, was then added : and we observe that the archi tects of that date were as ruthless, in mutilating the work of their predecessors, as their modern representa tives. Some Early English colouring can be seen on the walls. The new woodwork will naturaUy be viewed with great interest. The whole of the carving, with the exception of the pulpit, was executed in the workshops of the contractor, Mr. John Thompson, of Peterborough, who also was entrusted with the general work of restoration. The Stalls are of the finest oak, with miserere seats; the backs have rich tracery, with raised shields, moulded groined ceilings, and carved bosses at the intersection of the ribs. They are surmounted by octagonal canopies, in three stages, the uppermost con taining a niche for a carved figure to each stall, while other figures, of much smaller size, are to be seen below. All of these figures have some peculiar interest in con nection with the Cathedral, or with the monastery. Beginning at the Dean's stall, and proceeding eastwards, the statues on the south side represent the following : — Two over the Dean's stall, SS. Paul and Andrew. 1. S. Peter. 2. Saxulf (656), first Abbot. 3. Adulf (971), Abbot, afterwards Archbishop of York. 4. Kenulf (992), Abbot, afterwards Bishop of Winchester. 5. Leofric (1057), Abbot. 6. Turold (1069), Abbot. 7. Ernulf (1107), Abbot, afterwards Bishop of Rochester. 8. Martin de Veoti, or de Bee (1133), Abbot when the choir was dedicated. 9. Benedict (1175), Abbot. He built most, if not all, of the nave. 10. Martin of Ramsey (1226), Abbot. 11. John of Calais (1249), Abbot. 12. Richard of London (1274), Abbot. IS. Adam of Boothby (1321), Abbot. 14. William Genge (1396), flrst mitred Abbot. 15. Richard Ashton (1438), Abbot. 16. Robert Kirton (1496), Abbot. He finished the new building. 17. John Towers (1638), Bishop. o z:^ oo _] oX u < QUJ < O Xoo QiO UJI- UJ THE NEW STALLS. 21 18. Thomas White (1685), Bishop. A Noniuror. 19. William Connor Magee (1868), Bishop, afterwards Arch bishop of York, 20. Simon Patrick (1679), Dean, afterwards Bishop suooessively of Chichester and of Ely. 21. Augustus Page Saunders (1853), Dean. 22. John James Stewart Perowne (1878), Dean, afterwards Bishop of Worcester. The statues on the north side represent the following persons : — Two over the stall of the Vice-Dean, Kings Wolfere and Ethelred. The latter is figured with a mitre, because he resigned his crown and became Abbot of Bardney. 1. Peada (655), King of Mercia, founder of the monastery. 2. Cuthbald (675), second Abbot. 3. King Edgar. 4. Queen Ethelfleda, 5. Brando (1066), Abbot. 6. Hereward the Wake (1070), nephew of Abbot Brando, and knighted by him. 7. John de Sais (1114), Abbot. He commenced the building of the existing choir. 8. Hedda (murdered by the Danes, 870), Abbot. 9. Robert de Lindsey (1214), Abbot. He holds a model of the West Front, finished in his time. 10. Godfrey de Croyland (1299), Abbot. He bears a model of the gateway to the palace grounds. 11. William Ramsey (1471), Abbot. He was one of the donors of the brass eagle lectern still in use. 12. William Parys (died 1286), Prior. He built the Lady chapel. 13. S. Giles, the famous Benedictine Abbot, with his tame hind beside him. 14. Hugo Candidus, the Chronicler. 15. Henry de Overton (1361), Abbot. 16. Queen Katherine of Arragon. 17. John Cosin (1640), Dean, afterwards Bishop of Durham. 18. Simon Gunton (died 1676), Prebendary. The historian of the church. 19. Herbert Marsh (1819), Bishop. 20. George Davys (1839), Bishop. 21. James Henry Monk (1822), Dean, afterwards Bisliop of Gloucester and Bristol. 22. Marsham Argles (1891), Dean. The dates in these lists, with two exceptions, are the dates of appointment. It is a satisfaction to observe that several dignitaries of the nineteenth century are included in the series. 22 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. The smaller figures on the south side are all New Testament characters; those on the north side are from the Old Testament. The carving on the sides of the two westernmost stalls is of great interest. The panels on the south represent the miraculous preservation of the arm of S. Oswald. This arm was one of the great treasures of the monastery, and was reputed to be the cause of many cures. Oswald, King of Northumbria, according to the legend, was seated with Aidan, Bishop of Lindisfarne (635-651), one Easter Day, when a servant ann6unced that a crowd of needy persons besought alms. The King immediately ordered the meat that was before him to be carried to the poor; at which the Bishop, in admiration at such an act, touched his right arm, and prayed that it might never perish. The three scenes on the carving will be easily identified from this short description. In the corresponding position on the north is represented the legend of S. Ethelwold. He was Bishop of Winchester (1006), and very active in founding and restoring monasteries, in various places. According to Hugh Candidus, the Bishop was directed in a dream to go to the Midlands (ad mediterraneos Anglos), in order to restore a certain monastery of S. Peter that had been destroyed. Finding at Oundle indications that he had reached the place, he commenced his work. But a second vision made known his error, and he was told to proceed down the river until he reached the walls of a monastery that had been burnt. Here he found cattle and sheep established within the very walls of the church. He began to build; but perceiving that the complete restora tion would prove to be beyond his own resources, he returned to Winchester, to see what help he could get. As he was praying in his chapel that the King and his wealthy nobles might be favourably disposed to the pious work, and give their assistance, the Queen herself suddenly appeared, and enquired the subject of the Bishop's prayers. On being told, she readily promised her help, and also undertook to get assistance from the King and the nobles. She seemed sure of her ground; for Candidus relates that she promised that she would THE MOSAIC PAVEMENT. 23 make the King help (pollicetur oonsolatricem et adjutricem . . . fore, compulsuramque regem caterosque et similia agere). Under this royal patronage the Abbey was rebuilt. There remain to notice the litany desk, pulpit, and throne. The carving on the two last-named will repay careful study. In the niches at the base of the pulpit are four Abbots who were chiefly connected with the erection of the building. One is represented as holding a model of the apse. Bound the main body of the pulpit are four Saints in niches, 8S. Peter, Paul, John, and James, each easily identified by what is held in the hand. Between these niches are wide panels of subjects associated with preaching :— Abbot Saxulphus, preaching to the Mercians; Christ sending forth the Apostles ; the descent of the Holy Spirit at Pentecost. The Bishop's throne is raised on three steps. Above the canopy is a lofty spire. On the sides of the seat are SS. Peter and Paul. On the book-board are symbolical representations of the Virtues of Temperance, Wisdom, Fortitude, and Justice. In the lower tier of the spire are six figures : — Saxulph, first Abbot; Cuthbald, his suc cessor; John de Sais, who began the choir; Benedict, who built the nave; S. Hugh, Bishop of Lincoln, (in which diocese the abbey was situated until the diocese of Peterborough was formed,) his hand resting on the head of one of his tame swans; John Chambers, the last Abbot and first Bishop. In the upper tier are four Bishops : — Bishop Dove, the Theologian; Bishop Cumberland, the Philosopher; Bishop Kennett, the Antiquary; Archbishop Magee, the Orator. The foUowing description of the mosaic pavement is from the pen of Mr. Eobert Davison, of London, who carried out the work : — ' ' Passing into the choir from the west, the pavement between the stalls is of tesselated Eoman mosaic, in an effective geometrical pattern of squares, and oblongs of red, green, and white marbles. The first bay of the chancel is also in Eoman mosaic, but of more elaborate design, the central portion being a framework of 24 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. interlacing cream bands, forming diamond-shaped panels alternating with circles, the centres of these panels being varied reds and greens; this framework surrounds four large panels of Pavonazzo d'ltalie, each in six slabs. This is a beautiful marble of feathery purple grey veinings on a creamy white ground. This central part is flanked on each side by a broad band of the same Pavonazzo, which separates it from the large side panels of a bold design of squares of red, green, and cream placed diagonally, interlaced by white bands; upon these panels stand the pulpit on the north side, and the Bishop's throne on the south. This bay is approached from the choir by the first marble step, which is in Frosterley, a marble with beautiful madrepores of light colour on a dark ground. The next bay is of similar design to the first, but is approached by two steps of Levanto marble of reddish brown tint, with small veinings of white. The third and fourth bays are in a marble mosaic, called Opus Alexandrium, composed of various rich marbles of briUiant reds, greens, greys, yellows, and creams, divided into the main design by bands of Pavonazzo. The design of the third bay, is divided into three equal panels, in the centre of which are four large slabs of Cipolino, a charming marble of a light green tint in broad wavy lines on a lighter ground, which are framed in by a combination of smaU panels of mosaic of varied rich patterns of triangles and squares, which are again enclosed by a broad border of mosaic of white squares on a ground of light green Vert de Su6de. The step up to this bay, and also the step to the next and to the altar pace, all of which stretch the full width of the chancel, as weU as the three steps to the altar dais, are in carefully selected Pavonazzo. The design of the fourth bay is a system of interlacing bands, forming alternatively large and smaU octagons, between which are squares and oblongs. The smaU octagons are rich plaques of marble, while the large ones are divided radiaUy into eight panels. AU these parts are filled with mosaic of varying patterns and colours. At each end of this bay is a long panel of overlapping circles, filled in Peterborough Cathedral, the Eastern Chapel. THE NEW BUILDING. 25 with rich mosaic. The panel on the altar pace and the three panels on the altar dais are in the same mosaic, each of a different design; the long plaques of marble in the upper panel are red and green of rich dark marbles. The two panels at the side of the dais are in Opus Sextile work, a design of hexagons of Pavonazzo, with diamonds of Vert des Alpes between them. The broad band of red, the whole length of the chancel on the outsides of the pave ment, is of Levanto marble, forming a finish to the work. " There are two eagle lecterns. One in the choir, of brass, was given to the monastery by William Eamsey, Abbot, and John Maiden, Prior; and is therefore of late fifteenth century date. An inscription, recording the names of the donors, in two Latin lines, was engraved round the stem. Centuries of hard rubbing have rendered this quite illegible; but the upper and lower ends of most of the letters, can just be traced. The other lectern is of oak, and was intended for use at the nave services. It was carved, suis ipsius mcmibus, by a clergyman of the county, the Eev. E. S. Baker, Eector of Hargrave. East of the apse was constructed in the fifteenth century a noble retro-choir. It is of the width of the choir and aisles together. From its position this part of the Cathedral is often erroneously called the Lady chapel. It was undoubtedly designed to contain altars, three, or perhaps five ; but at the date of its erection the original Lady chapel, situated (as at Bly) to the east of the north transept, was still standing. The great feature of this part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful stone vaulting which has been called fan tracery. Large bosses with shields ornament the roof; but they do not extend nearly so far downwards as in some of the more elaborate examples, ' such as the chapel at King's College, Cambridge. The architectural student will admire the junction of this Perpendicular addition with the original Norman apse. Begun by Abbot Ashton, it was com pleted by Abbot Kirton : and both these builders have left their rebus in various parts of the structure. The large bosses in the roof have coats of arms. Some of 26 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. the smaller carved ornaments are difficult of explanation. Over the large arch to the south aisle, on the east side, may be seen four sets of letters in the cavetto of the moulding. It would be a good exercise to attempt to read these. The English of them (they form four Latin words) is, " Let everything that hath breath praise the Lord." The visitor will not be inclined to spend much time on the contemplation of the modern stained glass. _ In the two central windows of the apse are some considerable fragments of ancient glass, and these are well worth observing with care. "They are very beautiful. No scenes of course can be now made out, but the faces, when examined closely, are singularly good. They were not from the cloisters, but from the church itself, and formed portions of a window or series of windows* representing the life of S. Peter." {Sweeting, 59.) These fragments were collected from various parts of the Cathedral, and placed in their present position by Dean Tarrant. In a small chapel, to the east of the north transept, known as the morning chapel, dedicated to S. John and S. James, is some ancient tapestry ; one piece represent ing S. Peter and S. John healing the lame man at the Beautiful gate of the temple; the other representing S. Peter's deliverance from prison. Here also, till lately, were preserved the remains of the woodwork of the old choir, which had been converted into seats. The tracery in front of the desks had been hacked away. Having been replaced, it was seen that the design would be very suitable for the front of the desks in the new choir. Accordingly, all that could be so used has been placed again in the choir; and the new work is of the same character. At the south end of the western transept of the nave, is an ancient font, originally composed of native marble, obtained from the quarries at Alwalton. The basin of * ' ' This is apparent from the few words which can still be made out, all of them fragments of texts referring to the patron Saint. A few of the texts have been reversed. Amongst them, are these : Pasce oves— d(omi)ne non erlt — es xpue (Ohristus) — no(n) sapls ea que — esse ducitis — B(ea)tus es Simon Barjona — d(omi)ne bonu(m) est uos esse." THE monks' STONE. 27 this font was, for many years, in one of the prebendal gardens, where it was placed upon the base of an old Norman pillar, and used for holding flowers: it was removed by Dr. Monk, when Dean of Peterborough, to the chapter-house. The celebrated statuary, Mr. Gresley, of Oxford, put it upon its present pediments, which are composed of Purbeck marble, and it was then placed where it now stands. It is considered a very fine piece of workmanship. CHAPTER III. MONUMENTS AND MONUMENTAL INSCEIPTIONS. T first sight it is thought that the Cathedral is singularly deficient in monuments of in terest. To a certain extent this is the case. There are no memorial chantries, such as add to the beauty of many of our noblest churches ; no effigies of warriors or other famous men ; no series of tablets or inscriptions that illustrate the history of the neighbourhood. With very few exceptions aU the monu ments and inscriptions that remain commemorate Abbots or other members of the monastery, or, after the Eeformation, members of the Cathedral foundation and their families ; while of famous persons known to have been buried within the walls, such as Mary Queen of Scots ; the Archbishops Blfricus, and Kinsius, of York ; and Sir Geoffrey de la Mare and Sir Eobert de Thorpe ; — no memorials worthy of their fame and importance are in existence. The wanton de struction during the civil war in the seventeenth century in great part explains this: but it is sad to have 28 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. to remember that vast numbers of mediasval in scriptions in the floor were hidden or destroyed during some well-meaning but ill-judged alterations of the last century. Of the prse-reformation monuments the most interest ing and important is that known as the Monks' stone, now preserved in the new building. It is generally thought that this was constructed in commemoration of the massacre of Abbot Hedda and his Monks in the year 870. The Danes destroyed the monastery and slew its inmates. For nearly a century no attempt was made to re-build the church or other monastic buildings. Abbot Godric, of Crowland, is commonly said to have erected this monument. He died in 941. But at a meeting of the Archaeological Society at Peterborough, in 1861, Mr. Bloxam read a paper in which he disputed the authenti city of this monument, by all previously regarded as one of the oldest monumental stones extant. Mr. Bloxam pronounced it Norman, and not Saxon work, and some centuries later in date than the massacre of the monks. He considered that the figures are not martyred Monks with their Abbot, but Christ and His eleven Disciples. It has been further conjectured by Bishop Westcott that it is part of the shrine erected over the relics of S. Kyneburgha, which were removed from Castor to Peterborough during the Abbacy of Elsinus, A.D. 1006-1055. A fragment of sculpture in the same style is built into the west wall of the south transept. Even if the latter years of the ninth century are deemed too early a date for this stone, it seems that the style of the sculpture and ornamentation are earlier than anything we can now see in position in the building itself. May it not have been erected when the minster was recon structed at the end of the tenth century? It was formerly in the churchyard; and sometimes testators desired in their wiUs that they might be interred near it. And it must be remembered that unvarying tradition has associated this stone with the massacre of the Abbot and Monks by the Danes; that its dimensions almost identicaUy agree with the earliest records of the stone BEFIGIBS OF ABBOTS. 29 said to have been so erected ; and the figures on it, from the dress, may well have been mistaken for inmates of a monastery, although the cruciform nimbus round the head of one leaves no doubt that it was designed for the Saviour. In the north transept, below the level of the floor, and protected by wooden doors, are several richly ornamented slabs, or coffin lids, of undoubted Saxon date : and they form a series which may be considered one of the very best in England. They are probably in their original position, the spot on which they lie being outside the Saxon church, and they were then in the grave-yard. The interlacing work, and other carved parts, are deeply cut and in very exceUent preservation. These were discovered in 1888. There are six recumbent effigies of Abbots ; and they form the best series of Benedictine memorials in England. Attempts have been made to identify them from the conjectured date of the style in each case. But as four are of thirteenth century work, and one late in the twelfth century, and as thirteen Abbots ruled during this period, it may be pronounced impossible to name each one. One only, manifestly the latest in date, and also in poorest preservation (being carved in clunch), has the mitre ; this is now temporarily placed in the new building, at the back of the apse: there can be little doubt that it represents John Chambers, the last Abbot, and first Bishop. All the Abbots are represented in alb and chasuble, and (with the exception of Bishop Chambers) holding a book, (signifying, it is said, the statutes of the Benedictine order, ) in the left hand ; while in the right hand is a crosier. In one instance this is not very clear. Four have their feet resting on fanciful creatures, which, in three cases, hold the lower ends of the crosiers in their mouths. Two of these crosiers, certainly, are turned outwards. This is contrary to the commonly received opinion that the turning inwards signified domestic rule over a monastic house. The head of one Abbot rests on a square cushion. Four of these effigies are in the south choir 30 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. aisle; one being beneath the Norman arch erected to commemorate three Abbots, John de Sais, who died in 1125, Martin de Vecti, 1155, and Andrew, 1199; but it seems unlikely that the effigy of one only should be placed under the arch, and it is more probable that this figure is that of some other Abbot. The date of the easternmost effigy in this aisle is known. It is more richly ornamented than the rest; and the entire stone coffin is above ground, with handsome quatrefoils and other carving. It is clearly later in date than the others in this aisle. This commemorates Abbot Alexander of Holderness, who died in 1226. In April, 1830, when the workmen were making a foundation in the Cathedral church for the erection of a new choir, they discovered beneath the woodwork under the second arch on the north side of the choir, a stone coffin, which their curiosity led them to open. They were surprised to find that it contained the body of a man, with a large coarse garment around it, equipped with boots, and having a crosier by its side. There were several very remarkable things connected with this discovery. The boots were what are called "rights and lefts," and in a good state of preservation. The crosier was perfect, and a part of the body was hard, and of a copper-coloured hue, whilst the other part was decomposed. The body was headless, and a piece of lead was found with this inscription upon it : — ABBAS: ALEXANDE : These remains were gathered together, replaced in the shell, and buried in the south aisle, nearly opposite the burial place of Mary Queen of Scots.* * On the spot where this cofHn was found, under one ofthe arches north of the choir, has recently been placed another efflgy, and a stone plinth has been erected to support it. This was brought from the new building where the clunch efflgy now is, under the belief that it represented Abbot Alexander and was the monoment that had been discovered there in 1830 This is undoubtedly an error. The efflgy that has thus been wrongly placed was brought from one of the chapels in the south transept. In an engraving of the flve monuments, dated 1782, that position is assigned to the monument in question I while to the sketch of that now lying at the east of the eouth choir aisle (which is really Alexander's tomb) is added a note that it is " gone or in the chapel" of the south transept. It was at any rate not to be seen in' 1782 ¦ and, in fact, it was hidden beneath the woodwork, as found in 1830 ' TOMB OF MAEY QUEEN OP SOOTS. 31 The other prss-reformation memorials are very few. Two have lately been found, concealed by the paving; that to Abbot Geoffrey of Crowland [22]* now placed in the north choir aisle ; and the stone of Sub-prior George Fraunceys [120], at the east end of the south nave aisle. To these may be added a stone to Eoger Clyff, near the door to the north-western tower, with two Latin rhyming lines, having an incised cross [3]: a black letter inscription to Eobert W., and his wife Isabella [19], in the north choir aisle: an early stone [16], in the morning chapel, in old capitals: a much worn inscription on a stone in the Canons' vestry [119] : and a few fragments under the bell tower. Queen Katherine of Arragon was interred in the minster in 1535. No worthy monument was ever erected over her remains: and Henry VIII. is said to have spared the minster itself out of respect to her memory, and to have considered that that would be a sufficient memorial. She was buried in the north choir aisle, just outside the most eastern arch. A "hearse" was placed near the spot, probably between the two piers. Some marks in the pillars may indicate where the supports stood. This may have been something in the nature of a flat wooden frame, coloured and perhaps inscribed, supporting some of the heraldic insignia used at the funeral. Some banners so used remained in the Cathedral in 1586. About the same time some persons were imprisoned for defacing the "monument," and were required to "reform the same." The only monu ment of which there is any record was a low table monument, raised on two shallow steps, with simple quatrefoils carved in squares set diamond-wise. En gravings of this monument are in existence, and prove it to have been an insigniflcant and mean erection. A few slabs of it were lately found buried beneath the floor, and are now placed against the wall of the aisle. This monument needed repair about the year 1725, and one of the prebendaries, Mr. J. Taylor, restored it at his * These numbers in square brackets refer to the list of monumental in scriptions given hereafter. 32 PETBEBOEOUGH OATHBDEAri. own cost, and supplied a tiny plate of brass with an inscription, part of which is still in the stone that covers the Queen's remains. The monument itself was re moved in 1792. A memorial stone has recently been placed over the grave by "the Katherines of England." A few of the memorials that have been placed in the Cathedral since the dissolution of monasteries are worthy of notice. And first, although no memorial remains, it should be noted that Mary Queen of Scots was buried in the choir on the south side, nearly opposite to the grave of Queen Katherine. The late works have shewn con clusively that her body was buried in the choir, and not, as usuaUy supposed, just outside, in the south choir aisle. The funeral took j^lace on 1 Aug., 1587. A handsome hearse was erected between the two pillars; and, judging from the plan in Browne Willis, it must have been a sumptuous and elaborate structure. Remains of this were to be seen as lately as 1800. After the Queen's body had lain at Peterborough about 25 years, her son, James I. , wishing to have it removed to West minster Abbey, wrote to the Dean and Chapter of Peter borough, requiring them to allow the removal. The corpse was accordingly taken from its grave at Peter borough, and removed, under the care of Richard Neile, Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield, on 11 Oct., 1612, to the place where it now lies, at Westminster. The original letter, containing the King's commands, is still in the possession of the Dean and Chapter ; and a good photograph of it is framed and hung on an adjacent pillar. The following is a transcript : — " Jambs K. Trusty and wel beloved, wee greet you well, for that wee thinke it appertaynes to the duty wee owe to o^ dearest Mother that like hono' should be done to her body, and like Monument be extant of hir, as to others hirs and of Progenitors have bene used to be done, and Cselves have allready performed to o' deare Sister the late Queene Elizabeth. Wee have comaunded a Memoriall of hir to be made in o' Church of Westminster, the place where the Kings and Queenes of this realme are usually interred. And for that wee think it inconvenient, that the Monument and hir Body should be in severall places. We have ordered that hir said Body remayning now interred in that o' Cathedrall Church of Peterborough shalbe removed to Westminster to hir said Monument. MONUMENTS. 33 And have Comitted the care and Ohardg of the said translation of hir Body from Peterborough to Westminster to the reverend father in God 0"^ right trusty aud welbeloved Servant the Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield Bearer hereof, to whome wee require you (or to such as he shall assigne) to deliver the Corps of C said dearest Mother ; the same being taken up in as decent and respectfuU manner as is fitting. And for that there is a Pall now upon the hearse over hir grave w^h wilbe requisite to be used to Cover hir said Body iu the removing thereof, w* may perhapps be deemed as a Fee that should belong to the Church : Wee have appointed the said reverend Father to pay you a reasonable redemption for the same, w<='' being done by him wee require you that he may have the Pall to be used for the purpose aforesaid. Given under o' Signet at o' Hono' of Hampton Court the eight and twentith day of September in the tenth yeare of o"^ raigne of England France and Ireland, and of Scotland the six and Fortieth. To o'' trusty and welbeloved the Deane and Chapter of o"^ Cathedrall Church of Peterborough, and in theire absence to the right reverend Father iu God the Bishop of Peterborough, and to such of the Pre bends or other officers of that church as shai be found being there." Not far from the spot where Queen Mary was buried, just inside the new building on the left, are the remains of a beautiful marble monument, erected by Sir Humfrey Orme, in his life time, for himself and his family, and which he lived to see destroyed [89]. It was hacked to pieces by the soldiers of the parliamentary party in 1643 ; and vve see it now just as they left it after having pulled down " all the carved work thereof with axes and hammers." Some account of the destruction wrought by these enthusiasts will be given hereafter. On the south-east side of the altar, is a very stately and handsome marble monument of the Corinthian order [94] ; on which is a portraiture of the gentleman for whom it was erected, lying on his left side, and leaning on a cushion, with his hands upon a skull ; above which figure is this inscription* : — . Sacred to- the memory of Thomas Deacon, Esq., a native of this city ; sometime high sheriff of this county : a person eminent for his morality and good life ; a true son of the established church ; a constant attendant on her worship and service : his piety consisted not in empty profession, but in sincerity and unafEeoted truth. He had an ample estate, which he fairly acquired, and increased by an * Numerous capital letters, aud the obsolete spelling, are not reproduced in this copy. D 34 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. honest industry, and managed with excellent prudence, and disposed of to laudable purposes. His charity (even in the time of his life) was very large, extensive, and exemplary ; of which he has left a lasting monument in this city, by founding a charity school, and endowing it with a freehold estate, of above one hundred and sixty pounds per annum : and also, by settling another estate of twenty- five pounds per annum, for a constant annual distribution of alms to poor ancient Inhabitants of this city. Having thus laid up in store to himself a good foundation against the time to come, he quietly departed this life, ou the 19th day of August, 1721, in his 70th year. To whose memory as an instance of her conjugal aflEection, Mary, his sorrowful relict, caused this monument to be erected. Beneath this effigy, and upon the front of the tomb, is the foUowing inscription : — In memory of Mary, the relict of Thomas Deacon, Esq. ; daughter of John Havey, of Spalding, gent. To which place she was a kind and generous benefactor, and bestowed upwards of £400 in pious and useful charities. She gave also to Fleet £250, for founding a charity school in that parish. To the poor of this city, she ex tended her daily bounty, so private as not to be told, so large aa not to be equalled ; to which she added several public benefactions, and gave towards augmenting the vicarage of St. John Baptist £100 ; and likewise £100 to the salary of the grammar school ; she died January 27th, 1730, aged 77 years. We have left to the last what is often looked at first [1], the famous picture of Old Scarlett. On the left, as you enter the west door of the Cathedral, hangs the portrait of this celebrated character. He buried, within the walls of the Cathedral, Katharine of Arragon in 1536, and Mary Queen of Scots in 1687. This painting is not a contemporary portrait, but a copy, made in 1747. It has been often engraved. In 1866 it was sent, on loan, to South Kensington, for exhibition. The following is believed to be a complete list of the memorial inscriptions. Unless otherwise described the stone is on the floor. The names, dates of death, ages,* and appointments, are given; but we have no space for the entire inscriptions. * In Latin inscriptions, the word tcfatis, or its contraction, at., is assumed to be correctl.v placed, and to m8.in "in the year of his age," It is olten incorrectly sui^posed to mean " aged." Scarlett, for ex imple, is nearly always stated to have been 98 years of age at his d- .th, instead of being in his 9Sth year, as the inscription stites. So in [23] Richard Tryce is said tj have been aged 72, but iu [35] to have been in his 72nd year. On the memorial pulpit in tbe nave is another instance. ^ ^ &lul. Y lYE HIS (.liAVEfiTQNB DOTIHI^ 4t,T «\lil)K4TTT5ME,Sa'i\V WS fffTKT Ift rap J'fTREKS yny M\S 1\N0W 'ECnx-DTO NUNV i'OK .-^UirAfirf AND f-T\KI)\X LIMM A ^i Ma.MKt: Micun voii-EwmMtJ'VGF. grim: UEK HAT) iNTFST) TAM> OM.hW P WmiX HlSPiACT AMI 'HIS 'loWNEii HO\,^i: H;lJ>EKh ITn Hl,-^ ' IM'V-A .^rvK] TWKJ! ( WR BVT AT UlNlVH HI.'? OWA TN RN" CAME WHAT HEPultOlHERB DID 1 OR iini I flh 8AME WAS DOSE NO DOVBT HIS fioVI.R 1^0 1 il IWU OR AN C INHKAVKN IHO ilERK lllh RrtJA OAU IN CLAN MEMORIAL INSCEIPTIONS. 35 I. In the western transept ; — 1 IVLY 2 1594 B S (i.e. Robbet Scarlett) .ffiTATIS 98. 2 Humfrey Austin ; 20 Nov., 1651 ; 69. 3 Roger Olyff, Prior. (The entire inscription was : — Christus Rogeri ClyfE, dignetur mlsereri, In Burgo natique Prioris et hie tumulati.) 4 Browne; 5 Dec. 1652. 5 7 Sep. 1655. 6 (This, and two previous] inscriptions, are partly concealed by the cupboards for surplices.) II. In the north aisle of the nave : — 7 Rebekah Bingham, Spinster ; 13 March, 1747. 8 Francis Bingham ; 29 Jan., 1724 ; 79 ; " Tenax Veritatis et Verbi." Tabitha, his wife ; Frances, Rebeccah, and Susanna, children of William and Susanna Bingham. 9 William Bingham; 6 Dec, 1722; 4. Esther Bingham; 5 Dec, 1723; 1. 10 Richard Hetley ; 2 Aug., 1779 ; 70. EUzabeth, his vrife ; 25 Sep., 1782 ; 76. Six children, not named. " The Family have been Buried near this Spot, from 1561, to 1803." — Memorial placed by their third son, Henry Hetley, Prebendary of Sarum, who died 1832, aged 86.* 11 Samuel Hook, M.A., Minor Canon; 5 Dec, 1728; 45. Anne, his widow ; 25 Feb., 1771 ; 85. Henrietta Anne, their only daughter ; 14 March, 1772 ; 45. 12 James Lowry, Merchant ; 15 Feb., 1710 ; 69. James, his son ; 18 July, 1712 ; 12 months. (The father died 1710-11 ; the year we should now describe as 1711.) Elizabeth Denton ; 19 July, 1712 ; 6 months. III. In the morning chapel, east of the north transept, formerly chapels of SS John and James : — 13 (Tablet.) Rev. John Stevens, A.M., Rector of Folksworth, Hunts.; 7 July, 1783 ; 31 : Elizabeth, his relict, 13 May, 1832. 14 Richard Thacker, and his wife. (Age and date illegible. Their remains are not buried here.) 15 Joane Peroe ; Jan., 1615. 16 HIC IACET W DE ALWALTON. 17 Frances Gates ; 7 Aug., 1832 ; 17. 18 William James Smith, Gent.; 7 June, 1832 ; 75. Hannah, his widow, 16 June, 1832 ; 77. Here also is the matrix of a brass, for two figures. A stone oof&n lid, with raised cross, is placed north and south. *At the top is a coat of arms. It has been thought unnecessary, in a guide-book such as the present, to attempt a description of the^ various armorial bearings. Unless specially noteworthy they will not be mentioned, 36 PBTBBBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. IV. In the north aisle of the choir : — 19 "Orate pro animabus" Eobert W. . . . and Isabella his wife. 20 Rebekah Pemberton, Widow ; 18 Dec, 1812 ; 54. 21 Dorothy Wilson, Widow; 14 Aug., 1653. " Intravit In Sabbatismum." 22 (Latin.) Godfrey of Crowland, Abbot. The complete inscription was; — De Croyland natus jacet hie Godefridus humatus, Burgi prelatus cui solvas Christe reatus. Amen. 23 Richard Tryce, Esq.; 28 July, 1767; 72. Dove, his wife; 17 Feb., 1737 ; 42. [35] 24 George Wright ; 8 Feb., 1775 ; 60. Elizabeth, his wife, 13 Feb., 1777 ; 57. 25 Martha Hawkins; 27 Mar., 1739; 56. William, her husband, 5 Nov., 1762 ; 73. " Bene qui latuit, bene vixit." 36 Elizabeth WeUs; 16 May, 1726; 62. James Hawkins; 9 Oct. 1749 ; 30. James Hawkins, his father, " 37 years Organist of this Church "; 5 Oct., 1750 ; 56. Hannah Hawkins, widow of last ; 23 Aug., 1767 ; 70. 27 (Tablet ; long Latin inscription.) William Waring, Head Master of the Grammar School ; 1726 ; 65. He had also been Precentor ; and at his death was Vicar of Peter borough, and Rector of Alwalton. 28 (Tablet; Latin.) William Gery, M.A., Prebendary ; 26 Aug., 1787 ; 78. Susan, his wife, 1 Dec, 1788 ; 77. 29 (Tablet.) William Rowles, Gent., of Washingley (co. Hunts.); 2 Oct., 1834 ; 84. Ann Wilkinson, widow, his daughter; 8 June, 1845 ; 70. 30 (Tablet ; Latin.) John Workman, M.A., formerly Fellow ot All Souls, Oxford, Prebendary, Eector of Peakirk, Vicar of Hamilton, co. Rutl. ; 1686 ; 44. (" Proto-Canonici " on this tablet probably means that Workman was Pre bendary of the first stall.) 31 (Tablet ; lengthy Latin inscription. Motto in Greek.) James Duport, D.D., Dean, Canon of Lincoln ; 17 July, 1679 ; 72. (The inscription mentions his connection with four colleges, Jesus College, where he was born, his father being Master, Trinity, of which he was a member, Magdalene, of which he was Master, " et hoc Nostrum, quod corpus obtinet." He was Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge, 1639-54.) 32 (Tablet.) Constance Workman, wife of John Workman, Prebendary [30] ; 30 Sep., 1681. 33 (Tablet ; Latin.) Dorothy Standish, wife of the Precentor ; 24 June, 1689 ; 46. 34 (Tablet; Latin.) Frances Cosin, wife of Dr. John Cosin, Dean, afterwards Bishop of Durham ; 25 Mar., 1642. (The Bishop died in 1672, and by his will left £40 for this monument, and prescribed the words of the inscription.) MBMOEIAL INSOHIPTIONS. 37 35 (Very large tablet, over piscina on sonth side. Under the arms ia an example of a punning motto, " Temperantia te temperatrice.") Richard Tryce, Esq., Steward of the Courts, &c., for the Bishop, Receiver General, &o., for the Dean and Chapter ; 28 July, 1767 ; 71. [23] 36 (Small fragment of brass in large stone, over the grave of the Queen. The full inscription is here given.) Queen Katharine A.D. MDXXXVI. [For new stone see No. 148]. V. In the new building : — 37 John Brimble, Organist of S. John's College, Cambridge. "Musis et musicse devotissimus Ad cselestem evectus Academiam " ; 25 July, 1670 ; 18. 38 J W ; 1685. 39 CW; 1681. 40 John Mackworth ; 21 May, 1670 ; 2. 41 Elizabeth Mackworth, " E cunis ad caelum rapta " ; 23 Jan., 1671 ; 17 days. 42 Samuel Wells; 10 Feb., 1817; 67. Mary, his daughter; 23 Mar., 1817 ; 28, Patty, his wife ; 24 Jan., 1838 ; 81. " Would that the remembrance of her Virtues was as durable on Barth as she is certain to have received their reward in Heaven." 43 William Layton ; 30 Oct., 1707 ; 10. 44 (Latin.) George Langton, of Langton, co. Line, Esq. ; 21 Feb., 1695 ; 78. 45 (Latin.) William Langton, Esq. ; 18 Apr., 1725 ; 64. 46 (Latin.) Thomas Child, of Dosthorp, Esq. ; 1 July, 1681; 55. 47 (Latin.) George Delavall, Esq. ; 31 Mar., 1678 ; 36. 48 (Latin.) William Gery ; 1787. Susanna Gery ; 1788. 49 John Langton ; 10 Apr., 1698. 50 Thomas Langton ; 18 Mar., 1695-6. 51 (Latin : curious and interesting. This stone is east of No. 45, which commemorates her father, at whose feet, this inscription says, she desired to be buried.) Letitia Kirk, wife of James Kirk, Esq. ; 19 Feb. 1684 , 23 ; " Unioum conjugi enixa natum e Thoro migravit in Tumnlum." 52 Ann Benson, 15 Aug., 1819 ; 78. John Benson, her husband, " The oldest Committee Clerk at the House of Commons," 5 Apr., 1827 ; 83. 53 Mary Umphelby, widow of Matthew Umphelby, of Kid- brooke, oc Kent, Esq. ; 26 June, 1828 ; 73. 54 Louisa Cole ; 14 Dec, 1824 ; 45. [102] Capt. Martin Cole, E.N., her husband, died at Broadstairs ; 10 July 1846. 55 Lsetitia Parsons ; 27 Feb., 1817 ; 25. Louisa Ainge ; 20 Apr., 1817; 39. 5fi Joseph Parsons, Prebendary, &c.; 1 Feb., 1829; 67. Lsetitia, Catherine Parsons, his wife ; 24 Dec, 1829 ; 65. [100] 57 (This and No. 58 are now partly hidden by a footpace recently constructed.) John Calah, Organist ; 4 Aug., 1798 ; 40. 38 PETEBBOROUGH CATHEDEAL. 58 Peter Peckard, D.D., Dean ; 1797. 69 Herbert Marsh, D.D., Bishop ; 1 May, 1839 ; 81. Marianne Emilie Charlotte Marsh, his widow; 13 Oct., 1844; 69. [98] 60 (Near the apse : Latin.) White , Kennett, D.D., Bishop ; 1728 ; 67. White Kennett, his son. Prebendary ; 6 May, 1740. White Kennett, his grandson. 61 (Latin.) Richard Cumlaerland, Bishop ; 8 Oct., 1718 ; 85. [99] 62 Mary Bigland, who married Ist Prebendary White Kennett, and 2nd Edward Bigland, Esq., 4 Feb., 1803 ; 90. 63 Spencer Madan, D.D., Bishop ; 8 Nov., 1813 ; 84. [96] 64 Nathaniel Hudson, Steward of the Courts, &c. ; 29 Nov., 1805; 61. 65 (Latin.) Joseph Sparke, M.A. (he was an eminent man of letters. Registrar of the Diocese) ; 20 July, 1740 ; 56. Rebecca his widow, 27 May, 1747 ; 55. 66 Mary Pratt; 25 Nov., 1825; 83. [92] 67 Margaret Strong ; 17 Oct., 1797 ; II. 68 William Strong, D.D., Archdeacon of Northampton, Canon. [93] 69 John Hyde, M.A., Minor Canon ; 9 Feb., 1803 ; 37. 70 Anne Monk ; 1 Apr., 1829 ; 7 months. 71 Levine Fowler, wife of Robert Fowler, Precentor ; 26 Jan., 1790 ; 36. Charles, her son, infant. 72 Sarah Coveney ; 9 Dec, 1728 ; 49. William Ooveney, her husband. Citizen and Vintner, of London ; 2 Anr . 1741; 75. • f , 73 (Latin.) George MaydweU, Notary Public ; 8 Apr., 1724. 74 (Much worn : verse in centre of stone partly illegible ) Mary Leafield ; 31 Aug., 1667. 75 (Latin.) Francis Orme, Gent. ; 25 Mar., 1674. 76 (Latin.) Gower Barker; 31 Dec, 1718 ; 9 77 W. G. B. ; 12 May, 1711. 78 G. O.; 1657. 79 Edward Bigland, of Browlesworth, co. Leic, Esq.; 18 May, 1760 ; 49. (Genealogical particulars.) (Much worn.) WiUiam Leafeild (of Longthorpe) ; 16 July, 1665. (Latin.) Charles Whyuyates, of Chelerstone, co. Derb., Gent.; "Militis humanae cursum complevit" 19 Mar., 1704-5 ; 46. Elizabeth, his widow ; 30 Dec, 1726 • 70 82 Orme Bigland, widow of Henry Bigland, of Long Whatton, 00. Leic, Esq.; 6 Oct., 1755; 73. 83 H. B.; 6 Mar., 1715. 84 Frances Orme ; 26 Feb., 1709 ; 35. 85 (Latin.) Charles Orme, Esq., son of Humfrey Orme and his wife Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Bedingfeild, of Oxburrough, co. Norf., Bart.; "In ^ternam Quam aspira.vit m Coelis vitam FaeUciter ascriptus est," 25 o6pt, J.691 J 37. 8081 MBMOEIAL INSCEIPTIONS. 39 86 (Latin.) Thomas Newcomen, of Thettlethorp, oo. Line, Esq.; 25 Jan., 1724-5; 67. 87 (Latin.) Humfrey Orme, of Compton Dondon, co. Som., Esq., son o£ Humfrey by the only daughter of Humfrey ; "A supremo Anglias senatu ad superiori'm sanctorum conventum evocatus," 2 Mar., 1670 ; 49. Charles Orme ; July, 17—; 63. Mary Orme, wife of last, 16 June, 1741. 88 (Latin.) Mary Orme, widow of Humfrey Orme, Esq. ; 16 Apr., 1675. (English.) Mary Orme; 1 June, 1T20. The following are the monuments and tablets in the new building. They are taken in order from the south, round the apse. 89 (On the mutilated monument erected for Sir Humfrey Orme no remains of names or dates are to be seen. At the top are these words : — ) Sangvis Ibsv Chbisti pvrgat nos ab omnibvs Pbccatis nostkis. 90 Owen Davys, Archdeacon of Northampton, Canon ; 7 Feb., 1875 ; 80. Selina Davys, his wife ; 20 Jan., 1846. John WiUiam Owen Davys, their son, 1 Mar., ] 846 ; 2. (The two last named were the last persons buried in the Cathedral.) 91 (Marble tablet.) Francis Jeune, D.O.L., Bishop; 1868. (Preferments named.) 92 Mary Pratt ; 25 Nov., 1825 ; 83. [66] 93 (Motto ; Fortis et Fidelis ; aUuding to the surname.) William Strong, D.D., Canon, and 45 years Archdeacon of Northampton ; 8 Sep., 1842; 86. [68] 94 (A massive and elaborate monument, described above.) Thomas Deacon, Esq., sometime High Sheriff of the County; 19 Aug., 1721; 69. [107] (Ou the front of the tomb another inscription.) Mary Deacon, his relict ; 27 Jan., 1730 ; 77. [108] 95 Spencer Madan, D.D., Bishop, previously Bishop of Bristol; 8 Nov., 1813; 84. [63] " In sacred sleep the pious Bishop lies. Say not in death — A good Man never dies." 96 John HinchlifEe, D.D., Bishop; 11 Jan., 1794; 62. 97 George Davys, D.D., Bishop, " Preceptor to her Majesty Queen Victoria"; 18 Apr., 1864; 83. Marianne Davys, his wife, 14 Dec, 1858; 69. [138] 98 Herbert Marsh, Bishop; 1 May, 1839, 8L [59] 99 (Latin : the four lines at the foot are by Dean Duport. Beneath are two open marble books, with the titles of the Bishop's works.) Richard Cumberland, Bishop ; 1718; 85. [61] 100 Joseph Parsons, M.A., Prebendary, Rector of Peakirk-with- Glinton, and of HolweU, co. Bedf.; 1 Feb., 1829; 67. Lsetitia Catherine Parsons, his wife; 24 Dec, 1829; 65. [66] 40 PETBBBOBOUQH OATHEDBAL. 101 William Tournay, D.D., Prebendary of Peterborough and Westminster, Warden of Wadham CoUege, Oxford, " he was distinguished by a playful fancy, refined taste, and peculiar powers of conversation "; 19 July, 1838 ; 70. 102 Louisa Cole, wife of Martin Cole, of the Vineyard, Esq.; 14 Dec, 1824 ; 45. [64] VI. In the south choir aisle : — 103 (Tablet; Latin. The swords in the shields of arms are represented with curious guards. This is the only instance of the arms of the Deanery on a monument.) Francis Lockier, D.D., Dean ; 17 July, 1740 ; 73. [110] 104 (Tablet; Latin.) Joseph Stamford, Gent., "utriusque juris peritissimus"; " fatalem transegit horam," 9 Oct., 1683; 45. Two young children buried near him. 105 (Tablet.) John Speechley, 33 years Organist; 7 Aug., 1869; 58. 106 (Tablet.) Thomas WhitweU; 11 Oct., 1769; 47. 107 Thomas Deacon, Esq., " of whose Pious Life And Charitable Acts the Adjoyning Monument erected to his Memory will give an ample Account"; 19 Aug., 1721. [94] 108 Mary Deacon, Relict of Thomas Deacon, Esq. ; 27 Jan., 1730; 77. [94] 109 Frederick iWilliams, D.D., Prebendary ; 12 Sep., 1745 ; 38. Three infant sons, unnamed. 110 (Latin.) Francis Lockier, D.D., Deanj 17 July, 1740; 73. [103] 111 Samuel Terrick, M,A., Prebendary; afterwards Canon of Durham ; 6 Aug., 1761 ; 53. 112 Elizabeth FuUer ; 15 Feb., 1742 ; 60. 113 (Tablet ; Latin. Motto in Greek, from Homer, thus rendered by Lord Derby : " The race of men is as the race of leaves." Eobert Pemberton, Esq., Steward of the Dean and Chapter, "Vitam laudabUem ad senectutem usque provexit. 7 Nov., 1695; 74. 114 (Under the Norman arch beneath which three Abbots were interred, is a modem painted inscription, but believed to be an exact copy of the original : — ) Hos tres Abbates, Quibus est Prior Abba Johannes Alter Martinus, Andreas Ultimus, unus Hio claudit Tumulus ; pro Clausis ergo rogemus. 115 (Tablet, above the same arch.) Louisa Edmunds, wife of Payne Edmunds, LL.B., 24 July, 1838 ; 61. [127] 116 (Tablet ; Latin.) William Parker, M.A., formerly FeUow of S. John's CoUege, Cambridge, "A profanis sui Seculi moribus Procul abhorruit " ; 13 Oct., 1730 ; 45. 117 (Latin.) Luke Parker, Gent. ; 24 Apr., 1678 ; 58. 118 WUUam Parker ; 21 Feb., 1681 ; 31. MBMOEIAL INSCBIPTIONS. 41 VII. In vestry at north end of aisle in south transept, formerly chapel of S. Oswald : — 119 (A much worn stone, with remains of a pra3-reformation inscription round the edge. It commences at the door.) Hio iao(et) . . . . ts istivs monast(erii) . . . (There is no inscription given in Gunton or in Willis f which corresponds to these words. Abbot Sutton's heart was buried in this chapel.) VIII. In the south aisle of the nave : — 120 (Latin.) Roger Fraunceys, Monk. The complete inscription was this : — Hie iacet Georgivs Fravnceys monaovs et natvs in Bvrgo Sancti Petri q'ondam Subprior hvivs mocasterii cvivs anie ppietur ds amen. (Adjoining is part of an elaborate matrix for a brass.) 121 (Originally in graveyard.) Christopher Robinson, 26 Feb., 1712-13; 65. Mary Robinson, his daughter; 28 May, 1693; 14. 122 Elin Chatris, wife of Robert Chatris ; 9 Jan., 1673. 123 Samuel Parker, Gent. ; 22 Feb., 1738 ; 38. 124 Charies Parker, Esq. ; 25 Feb., 1730 ; 69. Mary Parker, 9 Jan., 1682 ; 46. (The last five are within the iron gates.) 125 Elizabeth Pendelton ; 13 June, 1730 ; 6. 126 Penelope Caryer, relict of Robert Caryer, M.A., Eector of Overton LongvUe, co. Hunts. ; 6 Aug., 1738 ; 77. 127 Louisa Edmunds; 24 July, 1838; 61. Payne Edmunds, LL.B. ; 21 Aug. 1861 ; 84. Charlotte Edmunds, his second wife 25 May, 1876 ; 73. [115] IX. On the floor of the apse, behind the altar : — 128 " Hio posita sunt ossa Kynsini Archiepi Bbor. A.D. 1059." X. In nave : — 129 (On memorial pulpit : Latin.) John James, D.D., forty years Canon ; 15 Dec, 1868 ; 84 (error for Se-*) ; " P. 0. Filii Superstites." XI. Windows in north transept : — 130 (Latin.) John Hewitt Paley, " juvenis desideratissimi " 17 Feb., 1857. 131 (Given by G. W. Johnson, who also gave others not associated with any persons.) Prince Consort. 132 George Johu Gates ; 2 Dec, 1860 ; 40. 133 Margaret, wife of Joseph Johnson ; born 1792, died 1852. 134 Joseph Johnson ; born 1791, died 1849. (These two pre sented by their son G. W. Johnson.) * "Anno .etatis LXXXV" means, iu the 85th year of his age. Dr. James was in hia 86th year at his death. 42 PETEBBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. XII. Windows in south transept : — 135 Sir Chapman MarshaU, Kt., Alderman of London; 1862. (His son F. A. S. Marshall, was Precentor.) 136 Payne Edmunds, LL.B. ; 21 Aug., 1861 ; 84. [116,127] XIII. Windows in new building : — 137 George Butler, D.D., Dean, Eector of Gayton, formerly Head Master of Harrow; 30 Apr., 1863; 78. "This window is the offering of his widow." 138 (Latin.) George Davys, D.D., Bishop. " necnon lUustriss. Eegin^ Victorise Preceptoris." (Given by Marsham Argles, M.A., Canon, afterwards Dean.) [97] 139 (Window in north choir aisle) Latin. Thomas MiUs, M.A., Hon. Canon; 21 July, 1856; 82. 140 (Window in south transept.) James Cattel (cathedral Ubrarian) ; 26 Mar., 1877 ; 77. 141 (On monument in south choir aisle.) In memory of WiUiam Connor Magee D.D., D.C.L. Lord Archbishop of York Born in Cork 17. Dec. 1821, Died 5 May 1891. Minister of the Octagon Chapel, Bath, & Quebec Chapel, London 1851-1861, Eector of Enniskillen, 1861. Dean of Cork 1864, Consecrated 26th Bishop of Peterborough 15. Nov. 1868, Translated to York 1891. Eminent alike in the Pulpit and in the Senate, he devoted his unrivaUed eloquence to the defence of the Church and the confirmation of the Faith. "He being dead yet speaketh." 142 (Painted on a wooden tablet in south choir aisle.) Giving thanks to Almighty God for the example of the life and character of His servant Marsham Argles, D.D. for forty years Canon, and two years Dean of this Cathedral Church ; which his liberality largely helped to restore, and which he beautified with many costly gifts : his friends and neighbours have erected these screens to his memory. A. S. mdcccxciv. 143 (The next four are in the north aisle of the nave.) Gilbert Pemberton ; 6 Mar., 1754 ; 56. 144 Mary Waring; 13 Oct., 1729; 13. Francis Waring, her father. Apothecary ; 16 Oct., 1746 ; 64. 145 (Latin.) WiUiam Waring, M.A., "Salopiae natus," Head Master of the Grammar School, Vicar of S. John Baptist, Precentor, and Eector of Alwalton, co. Hunts.; 1726. He married Susan, daughter of Eiohard Roos, Esq., and had 7 sons and 1 daughter. This memorial placed by his sons Richard, Vicar of Withington, co. Heref., and John, Vicar of BiUingham, co. Dur. [27] MBMOEIAL INSCBIPTIONS. 43 146 Sarah Knowles, widow of Richard Knowles, M.A.; 15 Dec 1737. Mary Moore, widow of Thomas Moore, Clerk; 28 Dec, 1738. Katherine, wife of Thomas Bradfield, M.A. 15 Jan., 1746. Thomas Bradfield, M.A.; 10 Mar., 1756. 147 (On a pier in the south aisle of the choir, near the spot where the Queen was buried.) The body ot Mary Queen of Scots who was beheaded at Fotheringhay Castle on the 8"i February 1586-7, was buried a little to the north of this pillar on the Is' August 1587 and was removed to Westminster Abbey on the ll'h October 1612 by order of her son King James 1''. 148 (On a marble slab in the north choir aisle is an incised cross, having the Queen's armorial bearings in the centre.) Here lies the body of Katharine of Arragon Queen of England first wife of King Henry VIII who died at Kimbolton Castle on the 8*1" day of January 153-| Aged 49 years. 149 (On a brass fixed to a pillar in the south choir aisle, just south of the altar.) To the Glory of God in memory of Augustus Page Saunders D.D., F.R.S., Dean of this Cathedral 1850-78, and of Emma Frances his wife, the Canopy covering the Altar, was erected by their eight surviving Sons and Daughters. 1894. 150 (In the new building, north of the apse.) In memory of Henry Pearson Gates, J.P. of the Vineyard, born October 20th 1818, died May 6th 1893, High Baihff of this City and elected First Mayor on its Incorporation in 1874. He was Secretary to the Bishop of Peterborough from 1843, to 1889, Registrar of the Diocese, and Chapter Clerk of this Cathedral, from 1857, to 1893. Interred in Peterborough Cemetery. 151 (On a brass on the most western pier of the south arcade of nave. Masonic emblems are engraved on each side.) In memory of Harry Plowman Chief Verger of this Cathedral, Born March 28th. 1846, died February 15th. 1900. This brass is placed by some of his friends in this Cathedral which he loved and served for many years. Several of the tablets are known to have been moved from their original positions. Very possibly some ancient inscriptions still exist beneath the present nave floor. CHAPTER lY. A BEIEB HISTOEY OF THE MONASTEEY. ' HB date of the first monastic building is stated to have been a.d. 655; and so large were the foundation stones, that it required eight yoke of oxen to draw them. From this it may be inferred that the structure was not, like many of the Anglo-Saxon churches of this period, built entirely of wood; though it was probably far inferior in size and style of architecture to the building which succeeded it. It was one of the Kings of Mercia who had laid the foundation of the monastery of Medeshamstede* in 655 ; his name was Peada, the eldest son of Penda, the fourth monarch of that kingdom. The facts are thus related by the Saxon chronicler : — ' ' Prom the beginning of the world had now elapsed 5,850 winters, when Peada the son of Penda assumed the government of the Mercians. In his time came together himself and Oswy, brother of King Oswald, and said they would rear a minster to the glory of Christ and honour of Saint Peter ; and they did so, and gave it the name of Medeshamstede, because there is a well there called Meddswell. And they began the ground-wall and wrought thereon, after which they committed the work to a monk, whose name was Sex- wulf. Peada reigned no while, for he was betrayed by his own queen in Eastertide, 657." Wolfere was the youngest son- of Penda, and when Peada died, King Oswy assumed the government of Mercia, and ruled very despotically for about three years, when the nobles, incensed at his conduct, rebelled against him, drove him from the kingdom, and chose Wolfere for their King. It was in his reign that "Medeshamstede waxed rich," for Wolfere not only * The most probable etymology of this word is that which is given by Britton:— "Jlfede or Mead, a meadow; ham, a sheltered habitation; and stei, stead, or stad, a bank, station, or place of rest." DBSTEUOTION BY THE DANES. 45 caused the monastery to be built, but he endowed it with a great number of lands, and made it "not subject except to Eome alone"; and the abbey, which was by this time completed, was dedicated with great pomp and ceremony to "Christ and S. Peter," and hallowed in the name of "Saint Peter and Saint Andrew." Sexwulf, who had -superintended the building of the abbey, was the first Abbot whose name is mentioned in the monkish chronicles as its ruler. He was remarkable for his learning, piety, and humility, and was chiefly instrumental in bringing Christianity into the kingdom of Mercia. Both Sexwulf and Cuthbald who succeeded him were Abbots of the monastery during the rule of Wolfere, although there is little mention made of either in the records which have been handed down to us. Wolfere died in 683, and was succeeded by his brother Ethelred, who contributed very largely to the monastery, and secured to it by his interest extraordinary privileges. Those who could not afford to go to Eome to offer up vows, and get absolved from their sins were allowed both indulgences at this monastery, and could likewise receive "the apostolical benediction." After a reign of thirty years, Ethelred exchanged the insignia of royalty for the rough garments of a monk, and became Abbot of Bardney, in Lincolnshire, where he died, in the year 716. From the death of Cuthbald to the accession of Beonna in 775, there is a blank in the history of the monastery. During his rule one or two important concessions were made to the monks by King Offa. The name of the next Abbot was Celredus, but of him nothing particular is recorded. He was succeeded by Hedda, in 833, during whose Abbacy the first destruction of the monastery by the Danes occurred, which formed an important era in the history of this institution. A band of Danes, headed by Earl Hubba, invaded Mercia, and after committing numerous depredations plundered the monastery of Crowland, and proceeded to attack Medeshamstede. The monks of this abbey had, how ever, gained intelligence of their intentions, and having 46 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. closed the gates, resolved to act on the defensive. Hubba and his desperadoes soon surrounded them, and demanded that the gates should be opened ; and when he was told that he should not enter, he commenced to batter the walls. In the course of the attack, one of the monks hurled a great stone from the top of the building upon the besiegers, and Tulba, the brother of Hubba, was killed by it. This so incensed the Earl, that he vowed to put every monk to death by his own hand ; and having forced the gates, proceeded to put his horrible threat into execution, — robbed the monastery of everything that was valuable, and then set it on fire. It burned fifteen days. All the portable valuables were then packed on waggons and taken away. The plunder, however, is said to have been lost, "either in the Nen or in the neighbouring marshes." This was in 870. In a short time a few monks who escaped at Crowland re-assembled at the abbey there, and after electing Godric their Abbot, proceeded to Medeshamstede, and buried the monks of that monastery who had been murdered by the Danish invaders, in one vast tomb. Godric also is said to have had their effigies cut out in stone ; and it has been commonly supposed that the Monks' stone, now in the new building, was the identical stone constructed by Godric's orders. Some observations on this question have already been given in Chapter III. From this time until the reign of Alfred the Great, who came to the throne in 872, the monastery of Medes hamstede was frequently invaded, and the lands which belonged to it were seized by the conquerors. It was left for the wisdom and courage of Alfred to restore that tranquility to England which it had so long lost, and to give protection and security to his subjects. The Danes who had committed so many depredations before his accession to the throne were now beaten back and finally checked by the powerful fleet which he built to protect the kingdom from invasion. King Edgar, who succeeded Alfred, followed his example in this respect, and kept up the strength of the fleet. By this means increased security was given to England, and the people, WEALTH OF THE ABBBT. 47 comparatively happy in their internal government, and freed from the fear of foreign interruption, began to improve their public buildings and religious houses. It was in 966 that the monastery of Medeshamstede was rebuilt after the old model, at the instigation of Ethelwold, who was at that time Bishop of Winchester. King Edgar assisted in the re-construction of the monastery, and after the abbey of Medeshamstede was finished in 972, he ratified all the former charters which ij possessed, and gave it the name of Burgh. The first Abbot of the monastery, after its re-establish ment, was called Adulph, formerly the King's Chancellor; but having accidentally been the cause of the death of his only son, he could no longer live happily in the world, and he therefore endowed the abbey with all his wealth, and was elected Abbot. The monastery of Burgh was now in a more prosperous and wealthy condition than ever ; all the neighbouring country was subject to it, and its possessions were so immense that its name was changed to Gildenburgh. * Adulph, wishing to increase the value of the estates of the monastery and to encourage agriculture, had all the surrounding forests out down and the land cultivated. He was afterwards made Archbishop of York, and Kenulph succeeded him as Abbot in the reign of Ethelred. Kenulph built a high wall round the monastery, part of which is still in existence. He was translated to the see of Winchester, in 1006, and was celebrated for his virtue and learning. Elsinus, the next Abbot, was remarkable for the number of relics which he had collected. Gunton tells us that the arm of S. Oswald was the most famous, and Walter of Whittlesey informs us that King Stephen came to Peterburgh to witness the miracles which it is said to have performed. During the abbacy of Elsinus, England was invaded by the Danes under King Sweyn, in revenge for a massacre of his subjects by the order of King Ethelred. They landed in the north, and, having gained some advantages, proceeded southward to *'So says Grunton, p. 10; but the name seems never to have been used. 48 PETBEBOEOUGH OATHEDEAL. the fen country, which they plundered and laid waste with fire and sword. Heavy fines were extorted from the rich abbeys. Elsinus died in 1055. Arwinus was then elected Abbot, but he resigned in 1062, and was succeeded by Leofric. He was nephew to Earl Leofric, of Mercia, whose Countess was the famous Lady Godiva. During the third year of this Abbot, William the Conqueror invaded England, and we are told that , Leofric fought for some time in the English army, but in consequence of ill health, was obliged "to return to his monastery, where he died on the third of the kalends of November, a.d. 1066." Brando was the next Abbot, but died after a rule of three years. Turold of Fescamp, who for some service rendered to the Conqueror had been appointed to an abbacy near Salisbury, was considered by William, on account of his soldier-like qualities, to be a fit person to transfer to the rebellious and disorderly neighbourhood of the Camp of Eefuge, and he was accordingly appointed Abbot of Peterburgh, in 1069. Between the death of Brando and the arrival of his successor, the second destruction of the monastery took place. A band of Danish soldiers, headed by Hereward the Wake, nephew of Brando, attacked the monastery, and all the valuable treasures which it possessed were either taken away or destroyed. They then set fire to the building. The following is Gunton's account of the treasures which they captured; and, as it puts us in possession of much curious information concerning those times, we give the extract entire: — "They took the golden crown from the head of the crucifix, with the precious stones, and the footstool under its feet, made of pure gold and gems ; together with duo aurea feretra (two golden or gilded biers whereon they carried the saints'^ reliques, and other such like things, in procession), and nine silver ones; and twelve crosses, some of gold and some of silver. And, besides all this, went up to the tower and took away the great table which the monks had hidden there, which was all of gold, and PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL. GENERAL VIEW FROM S. WEALTH OF THE ABBEY. 49 silver, and precious stone, and wont to be before the altar, wilh abundance of books, and other precious things, which were invaluable, there being not the like iu all England." {Gunton, 263. The spelling and punctuation in this quotation are modernised.) The monks were disconsolate at the loss of these valuable treasures, and the Abbot solicited William the King to intercede for them, in order that they might be returned. It appears, however, that the Conqueror did not pay much attention to their request ; and it is probable that, as he had just after this depredation con cluded a treaty of peace with the Danish sovereign, he was unwiUing to do anything that should cause a breach of peace between them, especially as they were such troublesome and dangerous enemies. The greater part of the treasure was by some means once more restored to the monks, and, according to the Saxon chronicler, they commenced from this time to build ramparts for their own protection, and for the .security of the monastery. After the arrival of Turold at Peterburgh, being accompanied by 160 well-armed Normans, he proceeded to turn his attention to the Camp of Eefuge, situated near Ely ; and, joining Ivo Taillebois in an assault upon it, was repulsed by Hereward the Wake, and taken prisoner, with many of the monks ; nor was he liberated, according to Dean Patrick, until he had paid three thousand marks. After his liberation, he returned to the monastery, and made himself more odious to the monks than before. He was depraved and dissolute, and, to satisfy his licentious desires, he is said to have made free with the treasury. He was afterwards made a Bishop in France, but owing to his utter recklessness of conduct and morality, he was sent back to England four days after : was again admitted Abbot of the monastery of Peterburgh, where he died in 1098, after an odious government of twenty-eight years. During the reign of Henry I., Ernulph became Abbot of Peterburgh. This event took place in the year 1107 ; 50 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. and he built a new dormitory and refectory, and com pleted the chapter-house, which had been left in an unfinished state for several years. He likewise enriched the convent by making an arrangement with all who held in rent the abbey lauds to pay tithes to him, and, when they died, that they should give the third part of their estates to be buried in the church. Thus it was that the monastery continued to grow in wealth, and when Ernulph was made Bishop of Eochester, which happened in 1114, the abbey was entitled to a tithe of 40,800 acres of land. During the rule of his successor, John de Sais, the monastery was burnt down. The fire is said to have occurred accidentally, and such was the violence of the flames, that they reached the village and consumed most of the cottagers' houses. The additions which Ernulph had made to the abbey, however, are said to have escaped the general ruin. The Abbot, John de Sais, was . a very learned man, and possessed great strength of mind and decision of character. He regained for the abbey several of the lands that had been lost or forfeited by his predecessors. He showed his energy by the prompt measures which he took to rebuild the abbey after its destruction, and to get all those lands, manors, and fees confirmed to it which it had so long enjoyed, and which continued daily to increase. It was a very long time, however, before the new monastery was built. John de Sais superintended it during his abbacy, but he lived only nine years after he had laid the foundation stone (which ceremony he performed in the month of March, 1117), and the building was not completed at his death; nor did he succeed in securing to the monastery all its former possessions, although he exerted himself very assiduously to obtain them. John de Sais was succeeded by Henri de Angeli, in 1128, of whom nothing of moment is recorded. He was a man of no character, and tried to injure the monastery in the estimation of the King, by speaking falsely of the brotherhood. Some writers say that he was detected in his villainy by the King, who obliged him to resign ADDITIONS TO THE MONASTEEY. 51 his chair, and leave the country ; others assert that he quitted England on account of other crimes. AU historians agree, however, that he was a very bad man. The appointment of the next Abbot devolved upon the King, and Martin de Vecti was chosen by him to govern the monastery, in 1133. The monks received him with every expression of respect, as he was reported to be a man of profound erudition and good moral character. He began his rule by forwarding the erection of the new monastery, and it was during his abbacy that it was completed and re-dedicated — which latter ceremony was conducted with great pomp, and all the Abbots of the neighbouring monasteries, with numbers of the barons and gentry, were present, in the year 1140. It appears that Martin was very zealous in the work of improve ment, and that he not only built a new gate to the monastery, but formed a new village on the western side of it; altered the place of wharfage, erected a new bridge, planted the present vineyard, and built many new houses near the abbey. He is also said to have re-built the parish church, then situated in S. John's close, to the east of the abbey. The destruction of the castle, which stood near this church, is likewise attributed to this Abbot. It is probable that it was situated upon Mount Turold, or Tout Hill, as it is now caUed. This mound may yet be seen in a field on the north-eastern side of the Cathedral. Martin ruled twenty-two years, and died in 1155. After his death the monks resolved to maintain the right which they possessed of choosing their own Abbot, and William de Waterville was elected by them to the government of the monastery : their choice was after wards ratified by the King. Waterville was formerly a chaplain to Henry II. , and having some influence with him, he regained for his abbey "the eight hundreds of that part of the country which had formerly been granted by the King's predecessors;" and, being firmly established in the monastery, he turned his attention to the improvement of the town. He founded a hospital for the sick in Spitalfield; built S. Martin's church and 52 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDBAL. S. Michael's nunnery, at Stamford; settled a yearly sum upon the church of S. John Baptist;* covered the monastery with lead, and founded the chapel of Thomas k Becket. It is stated by Gunton, that this chapel is in "the middle of the arch of the church porch," but this is an error which it will be well to correct. The building near the minster gateway, for many years used as the King's School, and afterwards as the Museum of the Natural History and Archaeological Society, is un doubtedly the chancel of the chapel ; and it is thus de scribed by Kennett : — ' ' The chapel of the blessed Thomas the Martyr, near the outer gate of the abbey there." After a government of 20 years, Waterville was deposed, at the instigation of the monks, by the Arch bishop of Canterbury. No positive crime was alleged against him — at least the monks have not mentioned any in their accounts of the monastery. The next Abbot of whom we read is Benedict, a raan of great learning, who was appointed to the rule of the monastery by the King in 1177, after a vacancy of two years. The Abbot brought several relics to the monastery, and finished the chapel of Thomas k Becket. He was very zealous likewise in his endeavours to recover the abbey lands which had been forfeited or seized during the rule of his predecessors; nor was he scrupulous as to the means which he took to effect this. The monastery, during his government, underwent many important changes. He rebuilt the whole body of the church, "from the lantern to the porch;" and it is the opinion of Gunton, that the curiously painted ceiling which covers the middle of the building was of his workmanship. He likewise added several houses to those which were already within the precincts of the abbey, and built the present gate which leads to the west front of the Cathedral, with a chapel over it, which was dedicated to S. Nicholas. * This sum made the church dependent upon the monastery, and the chaplain was required to bring the church key to the sacrist of the monaitery, yearly, as aa aokaowledgement of it. (^Gunton, 24). s. petee's FAIR. 53 Benedict likewise obtained a charter for holding a fair upon the feast of S. Peter, and a market to be held every Thursday. The fair was to continue eight days. He ruled seventeen years, and died in 1195. Andreas, who succeeded Benedict, had been a monk of the house. It is said that he was a good man, and secured the esteem of the monks by giving them the lands of Fletton and Alwalton to enrich their table. He ordered likewise six marks a year to be given out of the monastery funds to the infirmary. This donation was continued by his successors for a long time, but Abbot Walter, during his rule, directed that it should be employed in purchasing wine for the " pitanciary. " During the reign of Andreas there were several lands given to the "Eleemosynary, " and the monastery was very flourishing. He governed seven years, and died in 1201. Acharius, who had been Prior of S. Albans, succeeded Andreas in the year 1200. He seems to have had the interest of the monastery at heart as greatly as any of his predecessors, and was engaged in several lawsuits with different landowners, in order to recover the lost possessions of the abbey. He gained the marsh of Singlesholt from the Abbot of Crowland ' ' for a yearly acknowledgement of four stones of wax," and increased the number of his monks. He endowed the church with many valuable articles, such as silver basins for the great altar, and a case of gold and silver, set with precious stones, for the arm of S. Oswald. He gave likewise two large silver cups to the refectory, with silver feet richly gilt, and four table knives with ivory hafts. He paid money off the monastery debts, and purchased houses in London, which he added to the abbey possessions. During the festival of S. Peter, a large wax candle, of five pounds weight, was set before the altar, and burnt day and night, until the festival was completed. This custom was observed in all other feasts of the saints in the abbey; and during the rule of Acharius the festivals were remarkable for their pomp and splendour. This Abbot ruled ten years, died in 1214, and was succeeeded by Eobert de Lindsay. 54 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDEAL. It was during the rule of this Abbot that one of the most interesting changes was effected in the monastery; the windows until this time had been "stuffed with straw," to keep out the cold and the rain; and, at an immense expense, he had thirty-nine of them adorned with glass, which enterprise gained for him a con siderable amount of fame and esteem. Not content with this change in his own monastery, he extended his generosity to other parts, and built a chancel to the church at Oxney. He was confirmed by the King at Winchester, and received the benediction of the Bishop of Lincoln. Being thus installed in his new office with so much honour, he directed his attention to the forest lands by which he was surrounded. By virtue of the forest laws, foresters let their cattle run at liberty to graze, and they frequently did much damage to the possessions of the monastery, and to the property of the town inhabitants. Lindsay therefore wrote to the King to try to "disafforest" the lands which were contiguous to the monastery, and he effected his object. He also built the lavatory in the cloister. In his time the civil wars in John's reign brought desolation to many religious houses, but we do not read that Peterburgh suffered. Eobert de Lindsay is said to have written a history of the monastery. He died in 1222. Alexander de Holderness was the next Abbot, and was elected November 30, 1222. He made a number of im provements in the monastery, and enriched it with money and relics. He built ' ' the solarium magnum at the door of the Abbot's chamber, and a cellerarium under it, and furnished the church also with that precious crystal vessel wherein the blood of Thomas k Becket was kept " {Gunton 299). He likewise built halls at Oundle, Castor, Byebury, and other places. He was much beloved by the monks, and died, after a government of four years, in 1226. Martin de Eamsey was chosen Abbot after the death of Alexander. His election was sanctioned by the King, and he was confirmed by the Bishop of Lincoln, at CONSEOEATION OP THE MINBTEB. 56 Westminster. There is nothing remarkable recorded of this Abbot. He "disafforested" several lands about Peterburgh, and added them to the possessions of the monastery. During the rule of this Abbot, Pope Gregory IX. ordered that when there should be an interdiction of the monastery lands, the monks should close their doors, and not allow the people to hear their prayers, or participate in them ; but the privilege was granted to the monks of Peterburgh to say the service in a low voice to themselves, the ringing of the bell being dispensed with. Martin ruled six years, died in 1232, and was suc ceeded by Walter of S. Edmunds, in 1233. In 1238, the Monastery of Peterburgh was re-dedicated and con secrated with holy oil, by the Bishops of Lincoln and Exeter, according to the decrees of the constitution of Otto.* Walter of Whittlesey gives a very favourable account of the disposition of this Abbot, and speaks very highly of his benevolence to King Henry, who was reduced to the necessity of seeking support from this and other monasteries. He entertained the King twice at Peterburgh, in company with the Queen and the young Prince. He also "gave 60 marks towards the marriage of Margaret, his daughter, with Alexander IIL, King of Scotland," and increased the number of his monks to one hundred and ten. He made likewise three several journeys to Eome upon civil and ecclesiastical business. The cause of one of these journeys was this : — The Pope sent messages to Peterburgh, demand ing that the Abbot should give unto one of his favourites a certain yearly sum, or a number of lands equal to that sum, and the Abbot refused to do so without the consent of the King who was patron of the monastery ; and going to Eome to know the cause of such an arbitrary demand, he was reproved by the Pope in person, and treated with great indignity by the Cardinals, and ex pelled the court. The Abbot was so much grieved, by * These decrees were, that all churches not consecrated with holy oil, should be dedicated within two years. ^Britton, 22-3.) 56 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. this cruel and ungenerous treatment that he never re covered, but died in the same year, 1245, after having ruled twelve years with the greatest mildness, prudence, and benevolence. Walter was a learned man, and increased the books of the library. "He was pious and merciful to all, ex acted nothing unduly of his tenants, whether rich or poor ; but if any poor man or woman made their necessities known to him, he would burst into tears, and take compassion upon them " {Gunton, 306). No mention is made in any of the chronicles of the erection of the west front. No Abbot is credited with the design or with the execution of this glorious work. Its style proclaims it to have been built in the first half of the thirteenth century. There can be no question that the building of the west front followed very shortly after the erection of the western transepts. It would be probably correct to within a very few years, if we assign the commencement of the work to the time of Eobert de Lindsay, and its completion to that of Walter of S. Edmunds. The next Abbot of whom we read is William de Hotot, who was elected on the 6th of February, 1246. His rule was not favourable to the monastery. He lavished the possessions of the church upon his friends and kinsmen. His conduct was reprehended by the monks, and flnally represented to the Bishop of Lincoln, when William, fearing he should be deposed, resigned his office, and retired upon an allowance from the monastery in 1249, after governing three years. To him succeeded John of Caleto in 1249. "He was careful in adding to the buildings of the monastery " {Gunton, 34). The infirmary, the refectory (of which some beautiful remains are to be seen in the Bishop's garden), and the cloister adjacent, may be assigned to him. Eichard de London was elected Abbot in 1274. He had held several offices in the monastery before his in stallation, and being well acquainted with the discipline of the church, governed well and wisely. He recovered The LADY CHAPEL BUILT. 57 the manor of Biggins, near Oundle, from the Earl of Clare, and his success was mainly owing to the eloquence of one of his monks, who pleaded the cause of the monastery in person, before the judge of assize at Northampton. It was during the government of Eichard de London that Prior Parys built and endowed the Lady Chapel.* He had, while sacrist, built one of the largest steeples of the church, and given two bells to the monastery. He died in 1295, having ruled twenty years. In his reign the library and the monastery lands were considerably increased. WiUiam de Woodford was next elected Abbot. During the latter part of the rule of Eichard, he had assisted him in performing the duties of Abbot, which the latter was unable to do of himself, on account of his great age. Woodford is described as a fair and impartial man, of much kindness and benevolence, who added to the provisions of the monks, obtained a charter for the possession of all the deer that might be slain on the monastery lands, and devoted his attention to the better regulation of the hospital of S. Leonard, after wards known as Spital. He died after a rule of four years, in 1299, and was succeeded by Godfrey de Crowland in the same year. This Abbot, on his in- staUation, was presented by Prince Edward with a silver cup, and had the confirmation fees returned to him by the Bishop's order. The service in the chapel of Thomas a Becket was for a time suspended during this Abbot's rule, in consequence of a violation of sanctity of the place by certain officers, who, being in search of several men that had trans gressed against the laws, and hearing they had taken shelter in the monastery, dragged them thence by force. The Bishop of Lincoln therefore laid an interdict upon the place, nor was it without much persuasion that he granted an absolution. * There was at one time an entrance from ihe choir into the Lad.y Char'el through a door, on the right side of which was a small oratory, AKith a stone roof; the remains are yet to be seen. 58 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. In 1300, ' ' a marriage being intended betwixt the heirs of Offord and Southorp, King Edward supposing himself to be interested therein, appointed inquisition to be made whether the disposal of that marriage belonged to him or the Abbot of Peterburgh. And it being upon the inquisition certified that those heirs and their progenitors held their lands of the abbey of Peterburgh, the right of disposal of those heirs did therefore belong to the Abbot, which the King, understanding, desisted " {Gunton, 39). This right of disposal is well worthy of notice, as it illustrates the spirit of the time better than a great deal of writing. Godfrey was remarkable for his generosity and sumptuous entertainments. The King and Queen, with all their retinues, were provided for at the monastery, and once Prince Edward came with Peter Gaveston, and the Abbot presented them with two magnificent robes.* Godfrey added many beautiful improvements to his monastery, and built the great gate-tower, over which was the chamber called the knights' chamber, being the gateway now leading to the Bishop's palace. Whilst Edward was preparing for war against Scot land, he sent five successive times to this abbey for money to assist him in carrying on his enterprise, and Godfrey gave him in all about £500. His other gifts and entertainments were sumptuous and large,- and the sum of money which he expended during his abbacy was £3646 4s. 3d. This remarkable man died in 1321, after a splendid rule of twenty-two years. Adam de Boothby was the next Abbot. He enter tained the King, Queen and royal household, in the year 1327, at a cost of £327 15s. Prince Edward, with his sisters and servants, were likewise hospitably treated at this abbey during a stay of eight weeks. Like Godfrey, Adam was a generous man, but the expenses which the royal family cost him and his predecessors must have been a heavy impost upon the monastery. He died in 1338, in the eighteenth year of his rule. * The Prince at first refus*id the robe offered to him, because the Abbot did not make a similar offer to his companion; Godfrey, however, soon settled the affair, by presenting one to each. PAEISH CHUECH EBMOVBD. 59 Henry de Morcot was instaUed Abbot in February, 1338. There is nothing of any moment recorded of him, except that he was engaged in successful litigation with a Baron for the recovery of some church lands. He died in 1346, having ruled eight years. "Henry being dead, was buried betwixt the quire and the great altar, near unto his predecessor Adam. His grave being, in the year 1648, opened to receive the body of John Towers, late head bishop of this place, there was found a seal of lead (the instrument wholly consumed), having on one side these letters thus in scribed : — ' Spa Spe, ' over their several effigies ; on the reverse — 'Clemens PPVI.' {Gunton, 47.) It is probable that the instrument was some indulgence gotten at the jubilee, which was but three years before." Eobert Eamsey succeeded to the abbacy in 1346, but of him nothing particular is recorded. Henry de Overton was Abbot in 1361, and was followed by Nicholas, who was noted for his prudence and economy. We now come to the rule of William Genge, who was elected in 1394, and ruled twelve years. He was, ac cording to Gunton, the first Abbot of this monastery who was dignified with a mitre. During his abbacy, the church which was then situate in S. John's close, in Boongate, was taken down, and re-erected on its present site. The cause of this re moval was the fearful inundations to which, from its proximity to the fens, it was exposed. Between 1408 and 1438 the monastery was presided over by John Deeping. During his abbacy great com plaints were made of the conduct of the monks, and the heads of the Benedictine order were summoned before the King at Westminster, to answer the charge of abuses, which they could not deny, but promised to reform. Eichard Ashton was appointed Abbot in 1438, and ruled thirty-three years. He made many visits to the neighbouring monasteries, and likewise received many from their Abbots. In 1439, King Henry granted a charter unto this Abbot to hold a fair "for three days," 60 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. commencing on S. Matthew's day, in a field (named the Mending,) which joins the counties of Huntingdon and Northampton together. This fair, on account of its vicinity to the bridge, was called "Brigge Fair," by which name it is still known. Ashton was called to parliament at Westminster, but being too infirm to at tend, he deputed William Tresham, (probably one of his monks) to appear for him. He afterwards took the oaths of allegiance to his sovereign, at Coventry. During his rule it is stated that 33 monks died in the monastery, and many festivals were suspended in con sequence, there not being sufficient number left to per form the ceremonies. This Abbot made several additions to the church ; and the building at the east end, accord ing to Britton, was commenced by him. During the fourteenth century, and up to the end of Ashton's period, there were many considerable alterations and additions to the minster. Almost all the windows were altered in shape and enlarged ; those whose shape was unaltered were filled wiih tracery of poor character. The porch, with room above (now the library), was in serted in the central arch of the west front. No doubt this was added as a support to the great portico, and a very effective one it is. The two spires were added, that to the south being much the earlier of the two ; the chancel of Becket's chapel at the monastery gateway was built ; the Norman arches east and west of the centre tower were altered to the pointed shape ; and the lantern tower erected. These, though by no means the only ones, are the most considerable and important of the alterations during the period named. William Eamsey succeeded as Abbot in 1471, on Ashton's resignation. He, in conjunction with Prior Maldon, gave the brass eagle lectern still in use. He was indicted in 1480, for releasing a felon from the gaol at Peterburgh, and accepting a bribe for the same. He was tried and convicted, and was obliged to find sureties for better conduct. He died in 1496. The next Abbot was Eobert Kirkton. During his time there was considerable violation of the regulations THE NEW BUILDING. 61 of the monastery. Many of the monks had become disorderly and even licentious, and one of them robbed the shrine of S. Oswald of a number of jewels, and other valuable articles. Others gave themselves up to bacchanalian riots in a neighbouring tavern, and instead of devoting their nights to prayer, gave themselves up to the vulgar "company of dancers and ballad singers." These irregularities were speedily terminated by the Bishop of Lincoln, who, hearing of such notorious in fringements of the monastic rules, came in person to restore those licentious members of the fraternity to their duty. Abbot Kirkton had many contests with his tenants, but notwithstanding, he forgot not to enlarge and beautify his monastery, "for he built that goodly build ing at the east end of the church, now commonly known by the name of the new building " {Gunton, 56), wherein he placed three altars, opposite three pairs of stairs, descending from the back of the great altar. He like wise built a chamber in the abbot's house, which is slill called "heaven-gate chamber." He made also a beautiful window in the great hall "overlooking' the cloyster. " The gate that leads to the deanery is likewise of his workmansliip, and bears his signature in hieroglyphics, viz.: — a Kirk, and a tun under it. This gate is a mag nificent specimen of architecture, and should be seen by every person who visits Peterborough. Abbot Kirkton ruled thirty-two years, and died in 1528. In th^same year succeeded John Chambers, the last Abbot. Cardinal Wolsey visited the abbey in the 17th year of the reign of Henry VIII., and washed and kissed the feet of. fifty-nine poor people, which ceremony was called "keeping his maundy." He then gave them twelve pence, three ells of canvas, a pair of shoes, and divided a barrel of red herrings amongst them : he likewise sang mass himself on Easter-day, and absolved from their sins all those who heard him. Katherine of Arragon, who died at Kimbolton in 1535, was interred in the minster. Some notice of her tomb is given in the preceding chapter. CHAPTER Y. A BBIBB HISTOBY OP THE CATHEDBAL. ' HE dissolution of the religious houses of England is one of the most important events recorded in our national history. It changed ^^^ the whole aspect of civil and ecclesiastical affairs, and produced an entire revolution in the scheme of legislation. John Chambers, who was the Abbot before these changes commenced, conformed to the new order of things, and was retained in office by the King. The monastery was converted into a Cathedral, and the Abbot into a Bishop. The Abbot's house became the Palace, and the Prior's lodgings the Deanery. The new establishment consisted of a Bishop, a Dean, and six Prebendaries ; besides these the statute^ directed that there should be six Minor Canons, by whom the services in the Cathedral were to be conducted, accord ing to the usage of the old Cathedrals. Of these, one was to be chosen as Precentor, to whom the other Minor Canons, the Organist, Lay Clerks, and Choristers, were to be subordinate. The chancel of Thomas & Becket's chapel, already spoken of, was then converted into a grammar school-room, in which the Choristers, and a certain number of other boys, were to receive education; a Schoolmaster and an Usher, being appointed on the foundation, The jurisdiction of the Bishop was to ex- BUBIAL OP MAEY QUEEN OP SOOTS. 63 tend over the counties of Northampton and Eutland, except a few peculiars.* Bishop Chambers continued fifteen years in his new office. There is some dispute amongst the historians of this church about the time of his death, but it is generally agreed that he died in 1556. There were two monuments erected to him, by his own orders, before his death. Nothing of importance is recorded until the burial of Mary Queen of Scots in 1587. Her execution at Fotheringhayt had taken place nearly six months before. Gunton gives a long account both of the execution and the funeral. The body was brought to Peterborough on tha 'night of Sunday, 30 July, by torch-light. The Bishop and Dean, together with some of the court, re ceived the hearse at the Cathedral, and at once com mitted the body to the vault, which was immediately covered, ' ' saving a small hole for the staves to be broken into." The mourners and other attendants arrived at Peterborough on the next day. On Tuesday morning, 1 Aug., about ten o'clock, the procession left the Bishop's palace. The Countess of Bedford was chief mourner; and there followed some thirty peers, peeresses, and knights, eight Scotch gentlewomen, eighteen Scotch gentlemen, "divers esquires," Garter and Clarencieux Kings at Arms, and a hundred poor women. After the flrst anthem all the Scotch mourners, "saving Mr. Melvin, " departed. The sermon was preached by the Bishop of Lincoln, the burial service being conducted by the Dean ; after which the officers broke their staves, "casting them into the vault upon the coffin." A tablet, with Latin inscription, was shortly afterwards hung on the wall near the vault, but this was soon removed ; one expression in it, attributing the Queen of Scots' death to * Such as the prebendal churches, Ketton, Nassington, &c., the institutions to which parishes are not to be found in the Bishop of Peterborough's books until quite recent years. t Sir William Fitzwilliam, of Milton, to whora the castle then belonged, used to pay visits to the Queen of Scots during her imprisonment, and his noble conduct secured the good esteem of Mary. At a later period, a little before the Queen was executed, she presented him with a picture of her son, as a testimony of the value which she set upon his friendship. This picture is now in the "possession of the Pitzwilliam family. 64 PETEBBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. barbarous and tyrannical cruelty, would not be likely to be welcome to those in high places. The next event of public interest happened during the bishopric of John Towers, in 1643 ; namely, the de struction and defacement of all the monuments and ornaments of the Cathedral, through the foolish preju dices and blinded bigotry of the puritanical foUowers of Cromwell, who destroyed everything valuable, and spread terror over the surrounding country. The stately front, the curious altar-piece, the beautiful cloister for which the Cathedral was remarkable, were defaced and uijured by them as they passed through the city, on their way to Crowland. To reduce that town, the Parliamentarian forces marched through Peterborough about the middle of the month of April. The first regiment that came did no harm to the church, for, being commanded by one Hubbart, who seems to have been a great improvement upon the puritanical leaders of that time, the soldiers received orders not to injure the Cathedral. But un fortunately, about two days after, a regiment of horse arrived, commanded by Colonel Cromwell ; and these men, the morning after their arrival, commenced the work of destruction. They broke open the doors of the church, demolished the monuments, and turned the building into a stable. Dean Patrick, in his supplement to Gunton, has pre served a narrative "of the Eifling and Defacing the Cathedral Church." From this account, which can hardly in strictness be said to be short, though so called by the Dean, the following extracts are taken. They form only a small portion of the complete narrative. ' ' The next day after their arrival, early in the morn ing, they break open the church doors, pull down the organs, of which there were two pair. ' ' Then the souldiers enter the quire, and their first business was to tear in pieces all the common prayer- books that could be found. The great bii)le indeed, that lay upon a brass eagle for reading the lessons, had the good hap to escape with the loss of the apocrypha, Peterborough Cathedral. Choir Looki.vg W. DESTRUOTION OP ALTAB SOEEEN. 65 "Next they break down all the seats, stalls and wains cot that was behind them, being adorned with several historical passages out of the old and new testament. Whilst they are thus employed, they chance to find a great parchment book, behind the cieling, with some twenty pieces of gold laid there, by a person a little before." The book was called 'Swapham,' and was afterwards redeemed by a person belonging to the minster for ten shillings. "There was also a great brass candlestick hanging in the middle of the quire, containing about a dozen and a half of lights, with another bow candlestick about the brass eagle. These both were broke in pieces, and most of the brass carried away and sold. "When they had thus defaced and spoiled the quire, they march up next to the east end of the church, and there break and cut in pieces, and afterward burn the rails that were about the communion table. The table itself was thrown down, the table-cloth taken away, with two fair books in velvet covers ; the one a bible, the other a common-prayer book, with a silver bason gilt, and a pair of silver candlesticks beside. But upon request made to Colonel Hubbert, the books, bason, and aU else, save the candlesticks, were restored again. "Now behind the communion table there stood a curious piece of stone-work, admired much by strangers and travellers ; a stately skreen it was, well wrought, painted and gilt, which rose up as high almost as the roof of the church, in a row of three lofty spires, with other lesser spires growing out of each of them. This now had no imagery work upon it, or anything else that might justly give offence, and yet because it bore the name of the high altar, was pulled all down with ropes, lay'd low and level with the ground. ' ' Over this place, in the roof of the church, in a large oval yet to be seen, was the picture of our Saviour seated on a throne ; one hand erected, and holding a globe in the other, attended with the four evangelists 66 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDBAL. and saints on each side, with crowns in their hands ; intended, I suppose, for a representation of our Saviours coming to judgment." This was defaced and spoilt by the discharge of muskets. "Then they rob and rifle the tombs, and violate the monuments of the dead. First then they demolish Queen Katherin's tomb : they break down the rails that enclosed the place, and take away the black velvet paU which covered the herse : overthrow the herse itself, dis place the gravestone that lay over her body, and have left nothing now remaining of that tomb, but only a monument of their own shame and villany. What did remain [of the herse of Mary Queen of Scots] that is, her royal arms and escutcheons which hung upon a pillar near the place where she had been interr'd, were most rudely pulled down, defaced and torn. ' ' In the north isle of the church there was a stately tomb in memory of Bishop Dove, who had been thirty years bishop of the place. He lay there in portraicture in his episcopal robes, on a large bed under a fair table of black marble, with a library of books about him. These men soon destroy'd all the tomb. "The like they do to two other monuments standing in that isle. "In a place then called the new building, and since converted to a library, there was a fair monument, which Sir Humphrey Orm (to save his heir that charge and trouble), thought fit to erect in his own life time, where he and his lady, his son and wife and all their children were lively represented in statues, under which were certain English verses written : — "Mistake not Reader I thee crave. This is an A Itar not a Grave, 'Where fire raked up in Ashes lyes. And hearts are made the Sacrifice, dc. "Which two words, altar and sacrifice, 'tis said, did so provoke and kindle the zealots indignation, that they resolve to make the tomb itself a sacrifice: and with axes, poleaxes, and hammers, destroy and break down all that curious rnonument, save only two pilasters stiU DBSTEUOTION OP MONUMENTS. 67 remaining, which shew and testifie the elegancy of the rest of the work. "When they had thus demolished the chief monu ments, at length the very gravestones and marbles on the floor did not escape their sacrilegious hands. For where there was anything on them of sculptures or inscriptions in brass, these they force and tear off. "Having thus done their work on the floor below, they are now at leisure to look up to the windows above. "Now the windows of this church were very fair, being adorned and beautified with several historical passages out of scripture and ecclesiastical story ; such were those in the body of the church, in the isles, in the new building, and elsewhere. But the cloister windows were most famed of aU, for their great art and pleasing variety. One side of the quadrangle containing the history of the Old Testament; another, that of the new; a third, the founding and founders of the church ; a fourth, aU the kings of England downward from the first Saxon king. AU which notwithstanding were most shamefully broken and destroyed. Yea, to encourage them the more in this trade of breaking and battering windows down, Cromwell himself, (as 'twas reported,) espying a little crucifix in a window aloft, which none perhaps before had scarce observed, gets a ladder, and breaks it down zealously with his own hand. "But before I conclude the narrative, I must not forget to tell, how they likewise broke open the chapter house, ransack'd the records, broke the seals, tore the writings in pieces, specially such as had great seals annexed unto them, which they took or mistook rather for the popes bulls. "Thus, in a short time, a fair and goodly structure was quite stript of all its ornamental beauty, and made a ruthful spectacle, a very chaos of desolation and con fusion, nothing scarce remaining but only bare walls, broken seats, and shatter'd windows on every side. "And in the time of this publick confusion, two other things hapned not unworthy of relating. The one for the strangeness, the other for the sadness of the accident," 68 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. One was the strange preservation of two children, not above five years old, who swarmed down the beU-ropes, "like arrows from a bow," but received no hurt. ' ' The other thing that hapned of more fatal con sequence was this. It being that time of the year when young lads are busie in rifling jackdaws nests to get their young, a scholar of the free-school, son to a parliament officer, was got upon the top of the minster about this employment ; who going along the cieling in the body of the church, and treading unwarily on some rotten boards, fell down from thence, upon the loft where the organ now stands, having his pockets filled with those inauspicious birds, and with the fall from so great a height, was slain outright and never stirred more. "Many fair buildings adjoyning to the minster, were likewise pulled down and sold by publick order and authority, such were the cloysters, the old chapter house, the library, the bishops hall and chapel at the end of it : the hall was as fair a room as most in England; and another call'd the green-chamber, not much inferior to it. These all were then puU'd down and destroyed ; and the materials, lead, timber and stone exposed to sale, for any that would buy them. But some of the bargains proved not very prosperous ; the lead especially that came off the palace was as fatal as the gold of Tholouse; for to my knowledge the merchant that bought it, lost it all, and the ship which carried it, in her voyage to Holland. "And thus the church continued ruined and desolate and without all divine offices for a time ; till at length by the favour of a great person in the neighbourhood, it was repaired and restored to some degrees of decency again ; and out of the ashes of a late cathedral, grew up into a new parochial church, in which way it was employ'd and used ever after, untill the kings happy restauration. For Mr. Oliver St. John, chief justice then of the common pleas, being sent on an embassy into Holland by the powers that govern'd then, requested this boon of them at his return, that they would give him the ruin'd church or minster at Peterburgh ; this THE CATHEDEAL AS A PAEISH CHUECH. 69 they did accordingly, and he gave it to the town of Peterburgh for their use, to be employ'd as a parochial church, their own parish church being then very ruinous and gone to decay. "Now the town considering the largeness of the building, and the greatness of the charge to repair it, which of themselves they were not able to defray, they aU agree, to puU down the ladies chapel, as it was then called, an additional building to the north side of the minster, (being then ruinous and ready to fall) and to expose the materials thereof, lead, timber and stone to sale, and to convert the mony that was made of them, towards the repairs of the great fabrick. ' ' All this they did, and appointed certain persons to oversee the work, and expended several summs thus in repairs, mending the leads, securing the roof, glazing several windows, and then fitting up the quire, and making it pretty decent for the congregation to meet in. And this they did, by taking the painted boards that came off from the roof of the ladies chapel, and placing them all along at the back of the quire, in such manner as they continue to this day. ' ' When the place was thus fitted up, and the devasta tions which the souldiers had made, in some measure repaired, one Mr. Samuel Wilson, school master of the charter-house in London, was sent down by the com mittee of plundred ministers, as they were then called, to be preacher, with a sallary of 1601. per an. in which employment he continued untill the kings return. Then Dr. Cosin, the antient dean of the church, after almost twenty years exile in France, return'd and re-assumed his right again, in the year 1660, about the end of July. He then after so long an interval renew'd the antient usage, and read divine service first himself, and caused it to be read every day afterward, according to the old laudable use and custome, and setled the church and quire in that order wherein it now continues. "And thus is this history brought down at length within our own knowledge and remembrance; where we have seen what various fortunes this antient church has 70 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. had, which now reckons at least 1000 years from its first foundation. It has been often ruinated, and as often re-edified. Once it was destroyed by Danes; twice consumed by fire; it escaped the general downfal of abbies, in Hen. the Eighth's time, though not without the loss of some of her fairest manners; and yet what that king took away in revenues, he added to it in dignity, by converting it from an abbey into a cathedral church. But the worst mischief that ever befel it, was that in the late rebellious times, when the church itself was miserably defaced and spoiled; and aU the lands for the maintenance thereof, quite alienated and sold. And yet through Gods especial goodness and favour, we have lived to see the one repaired, the others restored, and the church itself recovering her antient beauty and lustre again. And that it may long thus continue, flourish and prosper, and be a nursery for vertue, a seminary for true religion and piety, a constant preserver of Gods publick worship and service, and free from aU sacrilegious hands, is the earnest and hearty prayer wherewith I shall conclude this discourse." In the middle of the seventeenth century some very considerable repairs had to be undertaken at the west front. Bishop Laney, who was at Peterborough only from 1660 to 1662, is said to have given £100 "toward the repairing of one of the great arches of the church- porch, which was fallen down in the late times." Probably several stones from the most northern arch had fallen. In 1681 further repairs were essential; and £1,500 were spent in repairing and amending "several breaks and defects in the church." Bishop Lloyd, who was translated to Norwich, and his successor. Bishop White, were two of the seven non-jurmg Bishops, and were both deprived of their bishoprics in 1690. In the time of Dean Lockier (1724-40) new pews were erected in the choir, "which had continued ever since the Eestoration to be wainscoted with the wood taken from the ceiling of the Lady Chapel " {Britton, 84). DBAN monk's WOEK. 71 This alteration included new stalls, which ("though very plain and very tasteless") continued tiU the time of Dean Monk. A new organ was also erected. Dean Tarrant (1764-91) collected what fragments of ancient glass existed in various windows, and placed them, where they stiU remain, in two windows over the altar. He also repaved the church ; unhappily, with more zeal than discretion, for most of the old monumental inscriptions were then destroyed.* During his time also an altar screen was erected, and an organ screen, from the designs of Carter. But these seem both to have been of very poor and unworthy character. Dean Kipling (1798-1822), although possibly many good works have been forgotten, is chiefly associated with the removal of the low unsightly octagonal structure from the lantern tower, and with the erection of four hideous turrets at its angles, which have now happily been removed. In 1827, Dean Monk issued an appeal for funds for improvements in the choir. "The altar screen," the appeal stated, ' ' and the screen which separates the choir from the nave of this church, together, with the organ gallery, the staUs, and aU the woodwork of the choir, although in good repair, are well known to be unworthy of the magnificent structure to which they belong." Before appealing to the public substantial structural repairs had been undertaken by the Dean and Chapter. In particular, the noble west front, which Dean Monk found to be in a very ruinous state, was perfectly restored from top to bottom : thirty-six windows, which had been blocked up, were opened in various parts of the church, and two Norman doors were brought to light, which had been hidden under mean depressed arches. Of the estimated cost, £5000, they had also subscribed £2050. The remainder was soon promised. The architect was Mr. Edward Blore. The work included organ-screen of stone, with an open parapet, and enriched with much * Two or three have been lately discovered in their original situations a few nchei below Dean Tarrant's floor. 72 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. diaper- work and many canopies ; new staUs,* and seats for the choir, pulpit and throne ; and an altar screen of stone. Great admiration was universaUy expressed at the com pletion of this work. It was esteemed a marvel of beauty. Nor need we hesitate to appreciate the enthusiasm and devotion which carried out the work, although to the taste of the present day much of it would seem heavy. Of aU that was then done to improve and beautify the choir, only the altar screen remains. In the time of Dean Saunders (1853-78), the choir roof was painted anew, and much valuable and important work done towards securing the stabUity of the fabric, by underpinning some of the waUs, and in other ways ; but all the expense was defrayed out of the resources of the Dean and Chapter, and there was no public appeal for assistance. Indications of the insecurity of the lantern tower had begun to appear, one or more fragments of the masonry having fallen from a great height; and for some years before the tower was condemned as unsafe, a wooden stage had been erected, above the four great arches, as a protection in case more stones should faU. * Originally four stalls, facing east, on each side of the entrance, were erected. Those in front of the ladles' pewi, were added soon after the ormtion of Honorftry Oanoni in 1844. CHAPTER YI. The Ebstoeation, 1883-1900. ^UEING July, 1882, Mr. Pearson made a special examination of various parts of the Cathedral, and his attention was especially directed to the state of the central tower. For many years the south eastern pier had been bound round with iron bands and planks, the effect being most unsightly. Arches in the triforium and clerestory adjoining were observed to have become mis-shapen, and the lantern stage of the tower was pronounced to be in a dangerous condition. An inspection of the lantern some eighteen months before had revealed evidences of failure, and these were now found to be increasing to a serious extent. At the end of the same year new cause for alarm manifested itself. Some large gaps made their appear ance; and it was soon realised that the central tower was unsafe. But it must not be supposed no action had been taken by the Dean and Chapter after receiving the architect's report in July. A committee had been formed, and a statement of what was believed would be found necessary, together with the report, was circulated among the most influential persons in the diocese. In January, 1883, the greater part of the tower was said to be in "a state of movement." That the tower should have stood so long is almost more remarkable than that it should at last have failed, for its weakness had been known and recognised for nearly three centuries. In 1593 an entry in the Cathedral accounts mentions a sum of £47 4s. 9d. as spent on ' ' The great column near the choir repaired with iron and timber." Most of the new work having been already described, it will be sufficient here to give a chronological account 74 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDBAL. of the restoration, and of the discoveries which have from time to time been made. In the course of 1883 the organ screen was removed ; the whole tower and the two eastern piers were taken down ; and the foundations of the new piers laid. The two western piers, which it had been thought might have remained unaltered, were also condemned. During the works of the first year many valuable historical discoveries were made. Some portions of the Saxon church in situ were found. Many dressed stones with Saxon mouldings were discovered, some having unquestionable marks of having been burnt. The tower itself yielded many portions of the original Norman tower, parts of arches, jambs, and capitals. Many coffin slabs, tombstones, and stone coffins, were also found. In 1884 the four great piers were rebuilt, the two western ones having been demolished early in the year. The Chief Corner Stone, at the north-eastern pier of the central tower was laid on 7th May, with full Masonic Ceremonial, by the Earl of Carnarvon, as Pro Grand Master, acting for the Grand Master, the Prince of Wales. The stone was a large block of Clipsham weigh ing 23 cwt. A brass plate in commemoration of this ceremony has been inserted in the pier. During this year there commenced a controversy as to the correct way of finishing the building of the tower. When the Decorated lantern was first built, the great arches east and west, to the choir and nave, were altered from the round to the pointed shape. A few of the stones of the original Norman arches having been brought to light during the work, some persons wished round arches now to be built, as at first. Some stones of the Norman tower were also found ; and it was proposed to heighten the central tower by one stage of work in the Norman style, using original stones where possible, and placing the Decorated stage above it. Others again wanted a lofty central spire to be added. Long letters appeared on the different questions in the papers, and the matters were at last referred to the Archbishop of Canterbury for his decision. In the result the whole •'U '& 1 , f - ¦ ? *'1 .^ LANTBEN TOWEB BBBUILT. 76 was rebuilt exactly as before, with the exception that the four corner turrets, erected by Dean Kipling, were not replaced. The rebuilding of the tower was carried on actively in 1885, though the dispute above mentioned delayed the work during the earlier months of the year. In 1886 the central tower was finished. In the south transept the ceiling was taken down for repairing. All unsound wood was removed, and replaced by good oak. The diamond shapes are still to be seen, but the black, white, and brown patterns have been improved away. Similar work in the north transept was undertaken subsequently. In 1887 the lantern tower decoration was completed. The ceiling is almost entirely the old one, the painting only being new. This was executed by Messrs. Clayton and BeU. The excavations which had disclosed the site of the Saxon church were practically completed this year. This will therefore be a convenient opportunity for describing what has been discovered. The flrst indica tions of the remains of an earlier building were brought to light when the foundations of the south-western pier of the central tower were reached. Here a solid piece of wall was found, and soon afterwards a substantial seat of cement attached to the wall, running north and south, which has since proved to be the eastern wall of the north transept of the Saxon church. The workmen also came upon a plaster floor, on which were remains of burnt wood, reddened stone, and other evidences of a conflagration. As the work of excavation proceeded at intervals, fresh discoveries were made. The entire north waU and part of the west wall of this north transept can be traced ; the entrance and side walls of the choir ; and the eastern .waU of the south transept. Just outside this eastern wall can be seen portions of two Saxon tombs which were originally in the graveyard. The width of the choir, and of the transepts, is about 23 feet. It seems agreed that the east end of the choir was square, and not apsidal. The south wall of the south transept was just beyond the wall of the existing building ; the 76 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDEAL. extreme east end was as nearly as possible underneath the eastern wall of the present south transept ; the west wall of the Saxon south transept was under the practising room, a few feet west of the present south transept ; the nave extended into the cloister court, and this was probably terminated by a tower. Near the south extremity of the excavations was discovered a portion of a Saxon side altar in situ. All idea of digging further was not abandoned tiU 1888 ; and indeed some of the discoveries already spoken of were made in 1888. It was then resolved to construct a subterranean passage, vaulted, which should run round the foundations above described. There is an entrance to this crypt in the south aisle, another in the south transept, near the gravestone of Sub-prior Fraunceys. Visitors are conducted through this on payment of a small fee. It must be remembered that there were two Saxon churches before the present building. One was destroyed by the Danes in 870; the second by fire in 1116. It was this latter church of which some foundations have now been traced. Careful measurements seem to prove that it was just half the length, and also half the breadth of the church which succeeded it. In 1888 the work done was important, but there was not much to show, as it was mostly underground. During the operation of underpinning the transept walls the valuable series of Saxon slabs in the north transept was found ; as well as some beautiful carvings that belonged to the demolished Lady chapel. In 1889 it was discovered that the original termination of the choir aisle was apsidal. A slight semi-circular rise in the level of the south choir aisle has been left to indicate the shape and position of this. The bells were rehung this year ; and the choir, lantern, and transepts, except for the internal fittings, were finished. It had been decided to extend the ritual choir two bays into the nave, so as to coincide with the ancient Benedictine choir. A temporary choir having been fitted up. Divine service was held in it for the first time on 11th July. A DEDICATION SEEVICE. 77 In 1890 the internal masonry of the nave and western transept was thoroughly cleaned. A re-opening service was held on 14th Oct. , by which date fourteen stalls had been erected in the choir. In 1891 the stone marking the spot where Katherine of Arragon had been buried was raised, and a brick vault, with plastered sides, was found beneath it. At the bottom was a leaden coffin, closely bricked round at the sides, covered over with slabs of stone, three of which had traceried panels, evidently belonging to the table monument which formerly marked the site of the Queen's grave. These slabs are now resting against the adjacent aisle wall. At the foot was found a stone inscribed, ' ' Ee- paved in 1781." The coffin was left undisturbed. A memorial slab has since been placed over the grave, the cost being defrayed by the subscriptions of ladies bearing the name of Katherine or one of its variations. In 1892 Italian workmen were engaged in laying the mosaic pavement in the choir. This was nearly com pleted by 2nd June, on which day several costly gifts, including the Bishop's throne, the pulpit, and eighteen more stalls were solemnly dedicated at a stately service held in the Cathedral. After the litany, which was finished by the Bishop from his throne, and an anthem, the special dedicating service was taken by the Archbishop of Canterbury at the altar ; and after this Te Deum was sung. The sermon was preached by the Bishop of Durham, formerly Canon. The Arch bishop and Bishops wore their Convocation robes. In the evening the Bishop preached ; and on the following Sunday sermons were preached by the Bishop of Ely, and Canon Body, of Durham. Some London critics having complained of the great cost of much of the interior embellishment of the cathedral, when so much money was wanted, and subscriptions were solicited, for absolutely necessary structural repairs, it may be well to point out that the whole of these gifts have been the offerings of individuals, or combinations of individuals, and that the Eestoration Committee have 78 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. not spent any of the money entrusted to them upon such objects. In 1893 two memorials were erected to the memory of Archbishop Magee. Over his grave has been placed, by his family, a massive Celtic Cross, of Irish limestone. In the south aisle of the choir is a fine table monument with a recumbent life-size effigy of the Archbishop in his robes, carved in pure white marble. The likeness is excellent. On the side of the monument are impaled coats of arms, and an inscription. In the same year the restoration proceeded slowly ; but much progress was made with the fittings of the choir. By 10th May, 1894, so many additional gifts had been completed that another dedication service was held on that day. These included a new organ and case, the canopied reredos, iron screens for the four eastern bays, pillars and gates for the choir entrance, a re-table, altar- rails, eight more stalls, a credence table, and an extension of the mosaic pavement. The organ, by Messrs. Hill & Son, cost £4,400, and was given anonymously. The action is tubular pneumatic, and the wind is supplied by a gas engine. The greater part of it is placed in the four bays of the triforium, on the north side ; the choir organ and two pedal stops are in the first bay of the north aisle, behind the stalls ; the console is in the second bay of the aisle. The organ has 68 stops and 4,453 pipes thus distributed: GREAT ORGAN (Compass CC to C iu Alt) CHOIRSWELL SOLO PEDAL „ (Compass CCCC to F) Total ... 68 ... 4453 Of the other additions special notice should be taken of the admirable wrought iron work of the screens and choir gates. The former are the work of White & Son, of London, and the latter are by Singer & Son, of Frome. The canopied reredos is a magnificent erection, and 1:— stops. Pipes. ... 17 . . 1342 ... 11 . . 671 ... 17 . . 1330 ... 11 . . 720 ... 12 .. . 390 STATE OF THE VSTEST PEONT. 79 renders the east end of this Cathedral one of the most dignified in the kingdom. The dais on which it stands is 13 feet square, and the summit reaches to the height of 35 feet. Four large marble columns stand at the corners, from the capitals of which spring cusped arches, the spandrils enriched with mosaic, while at the angles, above the columns, are figures of the Evangelists in niches. The large central panel in front has the figure of our Lord ; at the back is S. Peter. The material is Derbyshire alabaster; the work was executed by Mr. E. Davison, by whom also the mosaic pavement, as described at page 22, was laid. For many years it had been known that the condition of the west front was highly precarious (see p. 11). In September, 1892, a piece of stone fell down from the front ; and in the following months more signs of decay were noticed. A very severe gale, in the spring of 1895, called general attention to its insecurity, and it was felt that immediate steps must be taken for its preservation. A preliminary report was prepared by Mr. Pearson in May, in which the dangerous state of the front was admitted, but the architect was of opinion that if it was properly repaired at once, permanent safety might be secured. A massive scaffolding accordingly was erected, and Mr. Pearson was then enabled to examine the whole with great care, and in February, 1896, he furnished a second report. He had come to the conclusion that the great settlement downward and westward was of early date, at least as far back as the 14th century, and that since that date no movement of any importance had taken place. The masonry had, however, suffered severely in bad winters, and the stonework of the great gables was in a sad state of dilapidation. But in August, after closer examination, Mr. Pearson found the north gable very much worse than he had expected ; and suggested that it should be taken down and rebuilt. The central gable was not quite so bad, and he hoped it might prove to be unnecessary to take this down. The Eestoration Committee upon this report decided to obtain a second professional opinion, and consulted Sir Arthur 80 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDBAL. Blomfield. His opinion was received in October, con firming the opinion expressed by Mr. Pearson, and adding that substantial repair would be quite impossible without taking down and rebuilding some of the existing work above the caps of the great piers. An appeal was made for £11,000, to repair the damage done by the storm, to execute repairs still needed in the .transepts and eastern chapel, and to secure the safety of ithe west front. The last-named work was, in accord ance with the Architects' recommendation, at once proceeded with. Very great efforts were made by various persons in London and elsewhere, most of them unacquainted with the true condition of the west front, to prevent any stone being moved for the purpose of making the gables more secure. Those who lived in the place had long been aware that nothing could be done to preserve at least the northern gable without taking the stones down and re placing them. As the work proceeded it was made more clear than ever_^that no other process could have been successful. By the beginning of July, 1897, the north western gable had been taken down and rebuilt. The innermost moulding of the great arch had not been taken down. Of 2,006 stones taken down in the course of the rebuilding, no less than 1,836 were able to be replaced in the original positions, so that 170 only were found too decayed to^be used again. Mr. Punch summed up the controversy (16th Jan., 1897) in this^way: — "An Architectural Settlement. First Man (eminent in painting, literature or science). What a controversy about Peterborough Cathedral ! Do you know anything about architecture ? I don't. Second Man (ditto). Nothing whatever. And I've never been within twenty miles of Peterborough. First Man. Nor have I. Then let us go at once and sign a memorial to the Dean and Chapter, asking them not to let anybody do anything. (Exeunt, excitedly, f It is pleasant to learn that some of those who took part in the protests have acknowledged, now that the work is done, that they were mistaken, and that nothing EBPAIE OP THK WEST PEONT. 8] could be better than the careful and conservative waj- in which this gable has been made secure. There are, however, some who stiU speak of this preservation as the destruction of the front. In 'the following years the south-western gable was restored. This had never been in so dangerous a state as the other, nor so much out of the perpendicular ; but some of it had to be removed and replaced. One of the pinnacles, blown down in the gale in March, 1895, was put again in position. (Would this be described as the destruction of the pinnacle ? or ought it to have been left down ?) In 1901 there only remained to be done, as regards the West Front, the central arch and gable, and minor repairs to the piers, the bell tower, and paving in the porch, which it was estimated would cost about £2,000. A special fund was started that the restoration of the West Front might be completed as a memorial of the late dean. Dr. W. C. Ingram, who had devoted so much time and labour to the re storation work. By what must have been a strange oversight, when the seating of the choir was arranged, no seats were provided for the King's Scholars. These form an integral part of the foundation and are named in the charter. Their succession has been continued unin terruptedly (except that their number has been reduced) till the present time. In the old choir they used to sit, whenever officially present, in surplices, in seats between those of the lay clerks and the boy choristers. They still wear surplices, but have now to take their places with the other boys of the King's School ; a most in congruous arrangement. Characters from the New Testament appear in the smaller figures on the south side of the choir stalls, and from the Old Testament on the north side. Notice should be particularly taken of the panels on the sides of the stalls at the entrance of the choir, one representing the miracle 82 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDEAL. of S. Oswald's arm, and one the vision of S. Ethelwold, Bishop of Winchester, who was instrumental in rebuild ing the monastery a hundred years after its destruction by the Danes, as mentioned on p. 47. On the pulpit, at the base, are figures of four Abbots connected with the building of tha cathedral. Higher up are four of the Apostles, each with a symbol to distinguish him. The subjects in the panels are con nected with the preaching of the gospel. Among the figures on the throne are SS. Peter and Paul, symbolical figures of four Christian virtues, four Abbots, Bishop Cuthwin, first Bishop of Leicester, and S. Hugh, Bishop of Lincoln, with his swan. At the top are four Bishops of Peterborough. It remains only to say something of the cost of this restoration, and to record the names of special donors. In Oct., 1890, the Treasurers issued a memorandum in which the works then executed were thus described : — ' ' The central tower has been rebuilt, the choir pillars and north and south transept roofs have been repaired, both transepts have been underpinned, the internal masonry of nave aisles, and western transepts has been cleaned, a cement floor has been placed in the triforium, and new bell frames in the north-west tower. The total oost of these works has been £31,669 17s. 7d." Eight years later, in November, 1898, it was announced that the amount spent on the fabric, up to that time, had been £41, 822 7s. 9d. An appeal that was then circulated resulted almost immediately in the receipt of further subscriptions of upwards of £1,600. All this, it must be repeated, is exclusive of special gifts for the adornment of the choir and other things, some of them exceeding £1,000 in value : and we are certainly within the mark if we put these special gifts down as coming to £15,000 : and shall therefore not overstate the cost if we say that, up to the end of 1900, £58,000 had been spent. The contributors for special objects, most of whom also presented donations in money towards the fabric, were the following : — SPECIAL GIPTS. 83 Choir pulpit, Bishop's throne, and scraping of nave. Dean Argles. Mosaic pavement. Dean Argles and Miss Argles. Decoration of ceiling of lantern tower, new frames for beUs. H. P. Gates, Esq. One or more stalls were given by each of the foUow ing :— Archbishop Magee; Lady Elizabeth ViUiers (seven stalls) ; Lady Louisa Wells ; Friends of Canon Clayton ; Family of Canon Pratt ; Hon. Canon Willes ; Hon. Canon Twells ; H. P. Gates, Esq. ; an ex-Chorister of the Cathedral ; James Bristow, Esq. ; W. U. Heygate, Esq. ; S. G. Stopf ord- Sackville, Esq. ; Mrs. Yard; J. D. Goodman, Esq. ; Miss Pears ; Mrs. Perry Herrick; Mrs. V/. L. Collins, and Mrs. H. L. Mansel ; Albert Pell, Esq. ; Mrs. Dawson Eowley ; Mayor and Corporation ; F. James, Esq. ; Freemasons of England, per Messrs. H. C. Clarabut and E. Vergette (three stalls); Friends of Lady Isham and Miss Perowne (two staUs) ; the Eev. W. E. P. Waudby ; G. L. Watson, Esq. ; Major-General Sotheby ; Mrs. Hunt ; the Eev. A. Eedifer ; J. G. Dearden, Esq. ; Mrs. Percival ; the Misses Broughton ; the Eev. S. A. T. Yates, in memory of Charles Davys Argles, one of the sons of the last Dean ; the Eev. W. H. Cooper ; Mr. T. A. Argles ; and Mrs. Argles, the Dean's widow. New organ and case (£4,400). "A Friend." Canopied reredos. Memorial of Dean Saunders and Mrs. Saunders, by their eight surviving children. Ee-table. Old Boys of the King's School. Litany Desk. Mrs. Eigg, daughter of Archdeacon Davys. Iron screens enclosing four eastern bays of the choir. Public memorial to Dean Argles. Sub-stalls, seats for lay-clerks, and choristers, altar rails. The Women's fund. Credence table, pillars and choir gates. Anonymous donors. 84 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDBAL. Enlargement of footpace, and extension of mosaic pavement. Mrs. Argles. The following authorities have been consulted in pre paring the present work : — 1 The History of the Church of Peterburgh. By Symon Gunton. Ed. Patrick. 1686. 2 The History and Antiquities of Northamptonshire. By John Bridges, Ed. Whalley. 1793. 3 The History and Antiquities of the Abbey and Cathedral Church ot Peterborough. By John Britton. 1828. 4 A survey of the Cathedrals. By Browne Willis. 1742. 5 Peterborough Cathedral. By Thomas Craddock. 1864. 6 Historical and Architectural Notes on the Parish Churches in and around Peterborough, By W. D, Sweeting. 1868. 7 Remarks on the Architecture of Peterborough Cathedral. By F. A. Paley. 1859. 8 An Historical and Architectural Guide to Peterborough Cathedral, By O. W. Davys. 1859. 9 On the Abbey Church of Peterborough. By G. A. Poole. In the Reports and Papers of the Associated Architectural Societies. 1855. 10 The Saxon Chronicle. Bohn's Antiquarian Library. 11 HistoriEe Anglicanse Scriptores Varii. Ed. Sparke. 1723. 12 A Register and Chronicle, Ecclesiastical and Civil. By \7hite Kennett. 1728. -m- CHAPTER YII. ABBOTS, BISHOPS, AND DEANS. *N the following lists a brief notice is given, where possible, of the other preferments held by the various dignitaries. The earlier dates are some times uncertain, but those are given which are most generally accepted. The dates of the episcopal appointments have been taken from Stubbs' Begistrum Sacrum Anglicanum. Where an approximate date is hazarded, it is preceded by c, for circa. The date before the name is that of appointment. When an Abbot is described as a Monk, it is to be understood that he was a Monk of Burgh. ABBOTS. 656 Saxulphus. Made Bishop of Lichfield, 675. Died 691. 675 CuTHBALDUS. A monk. Alive in 709. bef. 716 Egbaldus. PUSA. bef. 793 Beonna. bef. 806 Celredus. Nothing whatever ia known of these four Abbots. The dates assigned are from instruments that bear their signatures. bef. 833 Hedda. Murdered by the Danes, 870. The ancient stone in the new building, described in a previous chapter, is believed to be commemorative of his death. 971 Adulphus. Chancellor to King Edgar; Bishop of Worcester, 992; Archbishop of York, 995. Died 6 May, 1006. Buried at Woi cester. 992 Kenulphus. Bishop of Winchester, 1005. Died 1006. 1006 Elsinus. The great collector of relics. He bought the body of S. Florentinus for one hundred pounds of silver. Died 1055. 1055 Aewinus. A monk. Resigned 1057 ; died 1065. 1057 Lbofkicus. a monk. Said to have been of royal blood. Held also the abbeys of Burton, Coventry, Crowland, and Thorney. Was in the English army at the invasion of William of Normandy ; being ill, he returned to Peter borough, where he died 2 Nov., 1066; buried here. 86 PBTEEBOBOUGH CATHEDEAL. 1066 BEANDO. A monk. Greatly offended King William by applying to Edgar Atheling for confirmation of his appointment. He created his nephew, Hereward, a Knight. Died 30 Nov., 1069. 1069 TUBOLDUS. A Norman. He is said to have greatly squandered the property of the abbey. Made Bishop of Beauvois, in France; but expelled in four days, and returned here. Died c. 1098. 1099 GoDEiCUS. Brother of Brando. The abbey bought, for 300 marks, the right of electing their own Abbot. Godricus was accordingly deposed, as having purchased the appoint ment, by Archbishop Anselm. In his time some foreign thieves broke into the church and stole much treasure. The thieves were taken but the King kept the goods. 1103 Matthias. Brother of Geoffrey, the Chief Justice, who was drowned at the foundering of The White Ship, when Prince William was lost. Died at Gloucester, c. 1105. 1107 Eenulphus. Prior of Canterbury. Bishop of Rochester, 1115. Died 15 Mar,, 1124, aged 84. 1114 John de Sais (in Normandy). In his time the monastery was burnt, and the present building commenced. Died 1125 ; buried here 1128 Henet de Angeli (Anjou). Also Abbot of Anjou. Said to have been a kinsman of the King. Forced to resign this and to retire to his other abbey. 1133 Martin de Vecti. Prior of S. Neots. Died 1155; buried here. Gunton understands him to have come from Vectis, i.e., the Isle of Wight ; Patrick, from Beo, in Normandy. 1155 William de Waterville. A monk. Chaplain to King Henry II. A great benefactor to the monastery. He was deprived, for what reason is not certainly known, in 1175. 1175 Benedict. Prior of Canterbury. Keeper of the great seal, 1191. Died 29 Sep., 1193. 1194 Andeew. A monk ; afterwards Prior. Died 1199; buried here. i200 ACHAEius. Prior of S. Albans, Died 1210. 1214 Robert de Lindsey (Lincolnshire). A monk. The King kept the abbey vacant for four years. Robert attended the fourth Lateran council, in 1215. Fought iu person for King Henry III. at Rockingham. Died 25 Oct., 1222. 1223 Alexander de Holderness (Yorkshire). A monk ; after wards Prior, Died Nov., 1226 ; buried here. 1226 Maetin de Ramsey (Huntingdonshire). A monk, Died 1233 1233 Walter de S. Edmunds (Suflolk). A monk. Went thrice to Rome, once when summoned for an irregularity in presenting to a vacancy at Castor Died Dec, 1245. 1246 William de Hotot. A monk. Resigned in 1249, the monks complaining that he enriched his kindred at the expense of the monastery ; buried here. BISHOPS. 87 1249 John de Calbto (Normandy). Prior of Winchester. Was one of the King's Justices, and went on circuit. Appointed Lord Treasurer by the Barons in the civil war. Died in London, 1262 ; buried here. 1262 Egbert db Sutton (near Castor). A monk. Fought in battle of Northampton. Attended the council ol: Lyons, in 1273 ; and died abroad as he was returning to England. Buried in a monastery near Bononia ; his heart brought to Peterborough, and interred before S. Oswald's altar. 1274 Richard db London. A monk. Died 1 Aug., 1295, aged over 80 ; buried here. 1295 William db Woodford (Northamptonshire). A monk. Died 2 Sep., 1299 ; buried here. 1299 Godfrey db Croyland (Lincolnshire). A monk. Died 9 Aug., 1321 ; buried here. 1321 Adam DB Boothby. A monk. Died23Nov., 1338; buried here. 1338 Henry db Moroot. Died 1353 ; buried here. 1363 Robert de Ramsey. Died 6 Oct., 1631. 1361 Henry db Overton (Huntingdonshire). Died 1391. 1391 Nicolas. Died 1396. 1396 William Genge. First mitred Abbot. Died 1408 ; buried here. 1408 John Dbbping. Resigned 1438; died 1439; buried here. This Abbot's name, as well as the names of the nert two, are really the names of places : but the prefix " de " seems to have been now discontinued, and the place-name to have become a surname. 1438 Richard Ashton. Resigned 1471. 1471 William Ramsey. A monk. Died 1496 ; buried here. 1496 Robert Kirton. A monk. Died 1528 ; buried here. 1528 John Chambers. A native of Peterborough. He resigned the abbey into the King's hands. A grant of 1 Mar., 1540 (that is, before the erection of the Bishopric,) says that, the Monastery being dissolved, the King allows to the Abbot a pension of £260 IZs. id. for life, with a hundred load of wood. In the next year he was appointed the first Bishop. BISHOPS. 1641 John Chambers, B.D. Cons. 23 Oct., 1541. By will he left a pix aud two candlesticks to the church, 201. to the fabric, 201. to the bridge, and 20Z. to the poor. In Strype, iii. 286, under 6 March, 1555-6, is an account of his costly funeral. He had been Chaplain to the King. Died 7 Feb., 1555-6 ; buried here. 1566 David Pole, LL.D. Fellow of All Souls; Chaplain to the King; Rector of East Dereham, Norf.; Chancellor of Lichfield; Archdeacon of Salop and Derby; Canon of Exeter; Dean of the Arches. Cons. 15 Aug., 1557. 88 PETBEBOEOUGH CATHEDEAL. Deprived by Queen Elizabeth, 1569; suffered to live quietly in London, within three miles of his house. Died 1568 ; probably buried at S. Paul's. 1560 Edmund Scamblbk, B D. Of Queen's Cambridge ; D.D., 1564; Chaplain to Arclibishop Parker; Vicar of Rye, Sussex ; Canon of Westminster ; Prebendary of York. Cons. 16 Feb., 1561. Called Pseudo-episcopus by the Roman Catholics, not because of his views, as some say, but because there was another Bishop, Pole, alive. Bishop of Norwich, 1584; Died 7 May, 1594; buried at Norwich. 1584 Richard Howland, D.D. Of Christ's College, Cambridge ; Fellow of Peterhouse ; Master of Magdalene and S. John's, Cambridge ; Rector of Stathern and Sibson, Leic. Cons. 7 Feb., 1585. Died at Castor, 23 June, 1600 ; buried here. 1600 Thomas Dove, D.D. Fellow of Pembroke, Cambridge; Rector of Framlingham and Saxted, Suff.; and Heydon, Ess.; Vicar of Saffron Walden, Ess.; Dean of Norwich. Cons. 26 Ajjr., 1601. Died 30 Aug., 1630; buried here. Amongst the lines on his monument, (which was ' comely,' but destroyed in 1643,) were these: Hie ilia est senio argentata Columba Davidis, cselos hine petit ille suos. 1630 William Pbirsb, D.D, Of Christ Church, Oxford; Rector of Grafton Regis; Vicar ot Northall; and S. Christopher- le-Stocks ; Prebendary of S. Paul's ; Canon of Christ Church; Dean of Peterborough. Cons. 24 Oct,, 1630. Bishop of Bath and Wells, 1632. Deprived, but restored 1660, Died 1670 ; aged over 90 ; buried at Walthamstow. 1632 Augustine Lindsbll, D.D. Fellow of Clare ; Prebendary of Lincoln and Durham ; Rector of Sedgfield and Houghton- le-Spring, Dur. ; Bigrave, Herts. ; Molesworth, Hunts. ; Wiokford, Ess.; Dean of Lichfield, 1628. Cons. 10 Feb., 1633. Bishop of Hereford, 1634. Died 6 Nov., 1634; buried at Hereford. 1634 Francis Dee, D.D. Fellow of S. John's, Cambridge; Rector of Allhallows, Lombard St.; Chancellor of Sarum; Pre bendary and Dean of Chichester. Cons. 18 May, 1634. He founded scholarships and fellowships at S. John's, Cambridge, for boys from the King's school of his name or kindred. Died 8 Oct., 1638 ; buried here. 16.38 John Towers, D.D. Fellow of Queens', Cambridge; Rector of Castle Ashby ; and Yardley, Northants. ; Dean of Peter borough; Chaplain to King Charles I, Cons. 13 Jan., 1639. He protested with 11 others against the exclusion of bishops from parliament, and was confined in the Tower about four months. Retired to the King at Oxford. De prived of his preferments, Died 10 Jan., 1649; buried here. 1660 Benjamin Laney, D,D. Fellow and Master of Pembroke, Cambridge ; Chaplain to Kin? Charles I. : Rector of Beriton, Hants.; Prebendary of Winchester and Westminster; Dean BISHOPS. 89 of Rochester. Deprived of his mastership, but restored. Cons. 2 Dec, 1660. He, with the Bishop of Gloucester, said the Litany at the coronation of King Charles II. Bishop of Lincoln, 1663; Bishop of Ely, 1667. Died 24 Jan., 1675 ; buried at Lambeth. 1663 Joseph Henshaw, D.D. Fellow of All Souls; Rector of Bast Lavant, Hayshott, and Stedham, Suss.; Vicar of S. Bartholomew the less, London ; Preacher at Charterhouse ; Prebendary and Dean of Chichester. Cons. 10 May, 1663. Died suddenly in London, 9 Mar., 1678-9 ; buried at East Lavant. 1679 William Lloyd, D.D. Of S. John's, Cambridge ; Vicar of Battersea ; Prebendary of S. Paul's. Cons. Bishop of Llandaff, 18 Apr., 1675. Bishop of Norwich, 1685. De prived as a non-juror, 1691. Died 1 Jan., 1710; buried at Hammersmith. 1685 Thomas White, D.D. Of S. John's Cambridge ; Rector of S. Andrew, Holborn; and of Bottesford, Leic; Archdeacon of Nottingham ; Vicar of Newark. Cons. 25 Oct., 1685. One of the seven bishops sent to the Tower. Deprived as a non-juror, 1691. He attended Sir John Fenwick at the scaffold. Died 30 May, 1698 ; buried in S. Gregory's, now part of S. Paul's Cathedral. 1691 Richard Cumberland, D.D. Fellow of Magdalene, Cam bridge ; Rector of Brampton, Oxf. ; Vicar of All Saints, Stamford. Cons. 5 July, 1691. A very learned man. Wrote, amongst other works, De legib-us Naturoe disquisitio pMloso-pTiica, against Hobbes ; to which a life is prefixed. Died 9 Oct., 1718 ; buried here. 1718 White Kennett, D.D. Vice-principal of S. Edmund's Hall, Oxford ; Vicar of Ambrosden, Oxf. ; Eector of Shottes- brook, Berks. ; Aldgate ; and S. Mary, Aldermary ; Arch deacon of Huntingdon ; Prebendary of Lincoln, and Sarum ; Dean of Peterborough. A most industrious writer. His works are upwards of fifty in number, many being most laborious. Cons. 9 Nov., 1718. Died 19 Dec, 1728; buried here. 1728 Robert Claveeing, D.D. Fellow of University ; Rector of Marsh Gibbon, Bucks.; Canon of Christ Church; Professor of Hebrew, 1705. Cons, Bishop of Llandaff, 2 Jan., 1725. Died 21 July, 1747 ; buried here. 1747 John Thomas, D.D. Of Christ Church; Fellow of All Souls ; Rector of S. Benet's, London ; Canon of S. Paul's. Cons. 4 Oct., 1747. Bishop of Sarum, 1757; Bishop of Winchester, 1761. Died 1 May, 1781 ; buried at Winchester. (This Bishop must be carefully distinguished from the Dean of the same names. The latter was Bishop of Lincoln, and afterwards, like his namesake, of Sarum. And there was a third John Thomas, Bishop of Rochester, 1774-93.) 90 FBTEBBOBOUQH OATHEDEAL. 1757 Eichard Tbeeiok, D.D. Fellow of Clare; Canon of S. Paul's, and of Windsor; Vicar of Twickenham. Cons. 3 July, 1757. Bishop of London, 1764. Died 29 Mar., 1777. 1764 Robert Lamb, LL.D. Fellow of Christ's, Cambridge ; Rector of Hatfield, Herts.; and of Peakirk, Northants.; Dean of Peterborough. Cons. 8 July, 1734. Died 3 Nov., 1769; buried at Hatfield. 1769 John Hinohlippe, D.D. Fellow of Trinity, Cambridge; Chaplain to the King; Head Master of Westminster; Vicar of Greenwich; Master of Trinity; Dean of Durham. Cons. 17 Dec, 1769. Died 11 Jan., 1794 ; buried here. 1794 Spbncbr Madan, D.D. Fellow of Trinity, Cambridge ; Eector of West Halton, and of Haxey, Line; and of Ashley, Berks.; Chaplain to the King; Prebendary of Peterborough. Cons. Bishop of Bristol, 3 June, 1792. He was first cousin to the poet Cowper. Died 8 Oct., 1813 ; buried here. 1813 John Parsons, D.D. Of Wadham ; Fellow of Balliol ; Eector of All Saints, Colchester; Vicar of Weare, Somerset; Master of Balliol; Dean of Bristol. Cons. 12 Dec, 1813. Died 12 Mar., 1819 ; buried at Oxford. There is a monu ment to him in Balliol Chapel. 1819 Heebeet Marsh, D.D. Fellow of S. John's, Cambridge; Margaret Professor in Divinity. Author of many con troversial works. Cons. Bishop of Llandaff, 25 Aug., 1816. Died 1 May, 1839 ; buried here. 1839 George Davys, D.D. Fellow of Christ's, Cambridge; Eector of WiUoughby, Notts.; and of Allhallows, London Wall; Dean of Chester; Preceptor to Queen Victoria. Cons. 16 June, 1839. Died 18 Apr., 1864; buried here. 1864 Francis Jeune, D.C.L. Fellow of Pembroke, Oxford; Head Master of Birmingham ; Rector of S. Helier's, and Dean of Jersey; Master of Pembroke, Canon of Gloucester; Eector of Taynton, Glouc. ; Dean of Lincoln. Cons. 29 June, 1864. Died 21 Aug., 1868 ; buried here. 1868 William Connoe Magee, D.D. Of Trinity College, Dublin; Minister of the Octagon Chapel, Bath ; Hon. Canon of Wells ; Minister of Quebec Chapel ; Rector of Enniskillen ; Precentor of Clogher; Dean of Cork, and of the Chapel Eoyal, Dublin. Cons. 15 Nov., 1868. Archbishop of York, 1891. Died 5 May, 1891 ; buried here. 1891 Mandell Creighton, D.D. Of Merton College, Oxford, of which he became Fellow and Tutor. In 1884 he became Fellow of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, and Dixie Pro fessor of Ecclesiastical History. He was D.D. of both Oxford and Cambridge; LL.D. of Glasgow; Hon. D.C.L. of Durham and Harvard ; and Hon. D. Lit, Dublin. He had been Vicar of Embleton, Northumberland ; Hon. Canon of Newcastle ; Canon of Worcester, and of Windsor. He was author of numerous historical works He was translated DBANS. 91 to London in 1896 ; and died at Fulham Palace, 14 Jan., 1901 ; buried in S. Paul's Cathedral. 1896 Hon. Edward Carr Glyn, D.D., the youngest son of the first Lord Wolverton, was born in 1843, the same year as his predecessor. He was of University College, Oxford ; Vicar of S. Mary, Beverley, 1872; Vicar of Doncaster, 1875; Vicar of Kensington, 1878. He was also one of the Queen's Chaplains. He was consecrated at S. Paul's Cathedral, 24 Feb., 1897. DBANS. 1641 Francis Abree, B.D. A Cluniac monk. Prior of S. Andrew, Northampton ; Vicar of Moulton, Northants. 1543 Gerard Carleton, B.D. Fellow of Queens', Cambridge; Rector of Stanway, Essex ; Canon of Westminster. Died 1549. 1549 James Curthop, M.A. Canon of Christ Church. Died 19 July, 1557 ; buried in Christ Church Cathedral, where is a brass inscription, with Latin verses, to his memory. 1557 John Boxall, LL.D. Fellow of New ; Prebendary of S. Paul's, Sarum, York, and Winchester ; Archdeacon of Ely ; Warden of Winchester ; Dean of Norwich ; and of Windsor ; Registrar of the Garter ; Secretary of State to Queen Mary. Deprived of his three deaneries by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and committed to the Tower. Died 1570. 1560 William Latymbr, D.D. Of Corpus Christi, Cambridge ; Rector of Stackpole, Pembroke ; of Witnesham, Kirkton, and Shotley, Suffolk ; of S. Mary Abchurch, London ; Canon and Archdeacon of Westminster ; and of S. George, South wark. Last Master of the dissolved College of S. Laurance Pountney, London. Being married he lost his preferments in Queen Mary's reign. Chaplain to Queen Elizabeth. Died 1583 ; buried here beneath the pulpit in the choir, 28 Aug. 1585 Richard Fletcher, D.D. Fellow of Corpus Christi, Cam bridge; Prebendary of S. Paul's; and of Lincoln; Chaplain to Queen Elizabeth ; Minister of Rye, Suss., (where his son John, the dramatist, was born) ; Rector of Alderkirk (Algarkirk ?), Line. ; and of Barnack, Northants. He attended the Queen of Scots at her execution, and his works refer only to her. Cons. Bishop of Bristol, 14 Dec.,. 1689 ; Bishop of Worcester, 1593 ; and of London, 1595. Died suddenly, while smoking, 15 June, 1696 ; buried at S. Paul's. 92 PBTEEBOBOUGH OATHEDEAL. 1590 Thomas Nevill, D.D. Fellow of Pembroke, Cambridge; Master of Magdalene ; then of Trinity, where the court he built bears his name. Rector of Dunnington ; and of Teversbam, Camb. ; and of Churton ; Canon of Ely ; Chaplain to Queen Elizabeth and King James I. ; Dean of Canterbury. Died 1615 ; buried at Canterbury. 1597 John Palmer, D.D. Fellow of S. John's, Cambridge ; Pre bendary of Lichfield ; Master of Magdalene, Cambridge. Fuller says " He died poor in prison, notwithstanding his great preferment." Died, about July, 1607. 1607 Richard Clayton, D.D. Archdeacon of Ely ; Master of Magdalene, and afterwards of S. John's, Cambridge. Died 5 June, 1612 ; buried in the Chapel of S. John's. 1612 Gborge Mbriton, D.D. Rector of Hadley, Suff.; Dean of Becking; Dean of York. Died 23 Dec, 1624; buried at York. 1616 Henry Beaumont, D.D. Fellow of All Souls ; Rector of Long Ditton, Surrey ; Dean of Windsor. Buried at Windsor. 1622 William Pbirsb, D.D. Afterwards Bishop. 1630 John Towers, D.D. Afterwards Bishop. 1638 Thomas Jackson, D.D. Vicar of Newcastle ; and of Witney, Oxford ; Prebendary of Winchester ; Chaplain to the King ; President of Corpus Christi, Oxford. Died 1640, buried in Chapel of Corpus. 1640 John Cosin, D.D. Rector of Brancepeth ; Prebendary of Durham ; Archdeacon of Cleveland ; Master of Peter house. Was in exile seventeen years. Cons. Bishop of Durham, 2 Dec, 1660. Died 15 Jan., 1672 ; buried in the Chapel at Bishop Auckland. 1660 Edward Rainbow, D.D. Fellow and Master of Magdalene, Cambridge. Deprived in 1650, but restored in 1660, and made Chaplain to King Charles II, Rector of Little Chesterford, Essex ; and of Benefield, Northants. Cons. Bishop of Carlisle, 10 July, 1664. Died 26 Mar., 1684 ; buried at Dalston, Cumb. 1664 James Duport, D.D. Master of Magdalene, Cambridge, 1668 ; Professor of Greek, 1039 ; Prebendary of Lincoln. Died 17 July, 1679 ; buried here. 1679 Simon Patrick, D.D. Fellow of Queens', Cambridge ; Vicar of Battersea ; Rector of S. Paul, Covent Garden ; Pre bendary of Westminster. Cons. Bishop of Chichester, 13 Oct., 1689; Bishop of Ely, 1691. Died 31 May, 1707; buried in Ely Cathedral. 1689 Richard Kidder, D.D. Fellow of Emmanuel ; Vicar of Stanground, Hunts,; from which he was ejected under the Act of uniformity. Eector of Raine, Essex ; Preacher at the Rolls ; Rector of S. Martin, Outwich ; Prebendary of Norwich. Cons. Bishop of Bath and Wells, 30 Aug., 1691, He was killed in bed, 26 Nov., 1703, by tbe fall of a stack DEANS. 93 of chimneys in his own house, during the great storm ; buried in Wells Cathedral. 1691 Samuel Freeman, D.D. Rector of S. Anne, Aldersgate ; and of S. Paul, Covent Garden ; Vicar of Stanton Barry, and of Olney, Bucks, Died 14 Oct., 1707 ; buried at Ecton, Northants. 1707 White Kennett, D.D. Afterwards Bishop. 1718 Richard Reynolds, LL.D. Of Trinity Hall ; Rector of S- Peter, Northampton ; Conningtou, Camb. ; aud Denton» Hunts. ; Prebendary and Chancellor of Peterborough. Cons. Bishop ot Bangor, 3 Dec, 1721 ; Bishop of Lincoln, 1723. Died 15 Jan., 1744 ; buried at Lincoln. 1721 William Gee. D.D, Rector ot S. Benet, Paul's Wharf ; Canon of Westmm.ster ; Rector ot S. Margaret ; Pre bendary and Dean of Lincoln. Died 1 Mar., 1730 ; buried in Westminster Abbey. 1722 John Mandeville, D.D. Archdeacon and Chancellor of Lincoln ; Canon of Windsor. Died 21 Jan., 1725 ; buried at S. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish St., London 1725 Francis Lockier, D,D. Ot Trinity, Cambridge ; Rector of Hansworth, and Aston, York. An intimate friend of Dryden and Pope. Died 17 July, 1740 ; buried here. 1740 John Thomas, D.D. Of Catharine Hall ; Rector ot S. Vedast, Foster Lane ; Canon ot Westminster and ot S. Paul's. Cons. Bishop ot Lincoln, 1 Apr., 1744 (he had been nominated to the Bishopio of S. Asaph, but before consecration was appointed to Lincoln) ; Bishop ot Sarum, 1761 Died 20 July, 1766 ; buried in Salisbury Cathedral. 1744 Robert Lamb, D.D. Afterwards Bishop. 1764 Chaelbs Tabeant, D.D. Prebendary ot Bristol ; Rector of North Tidworth, Wilts. ; and ot S. Mary-le-Strand ; Vicar of Staines; Dean ot Carlisle ; Vicar ot Lam berhurst. Suss. He van also at his death Subdean and Prebendary ot Sarum ; Prebendary ot Rochester ; Rector of Bloomsbury ; Vicar of Wrotham, Kent; and Chaplain to the King. Died 1791. 1791 Chaeles Manners Sutton, D.D. Rector of Averham, Notts. ; and Whitwell, Derb. Cons. Bishop of Norwich, 8 Apr., 1792 ; Dean of Windsor, 1794 ; Archbishop of Canterbury, 1805. Died 21 July, 1828; buried at Addington, Suss. 17S2 Petee Peckard, D.D. Fellow of Brasenose ; Vicar of Yaxley ; and Rector ot Abbot's Ripton, and Fletton, Hunts.; Prebendary of Southwell; Rector ot Tansor, Northants. Master ot Magdalene, Cambridge. Wrote lite of Nicholas Ferrar. He died through cutting a wen on his cheek in shaving three years before. Died 1797 ; buried here. 94 PBTEEBOBOUGH OATHEDEAL. 1798 Thomas Kipling, D.D. Fellow of S. John's, Cambridge; Editor of Theodori Bexee Codex Cantab. Vicar of Holme- on- Spalding -Moor, Yorks. Died and buried there, 1822. 1822 Jambs Hbney Monk, D.D. Fellow of Trinity, Cambridge ; Regius Professor of Greek ; Rector ot Fiskerton, Line; and of Peakirk, Northants. ; Canon of Westminster. Cons. Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, 11 July, 1830. Wrote life of Bentley, and published many Greek works. Died 6 June, 1861 ; buried in Westminster Abbey. 1830 Thomas Turton, D.D. Fellow of S. Catharine's ; Lucasian Professor of Mathematics, 1822 ; Eegius Professor in Divinity; Rector of Gimingham, Norf.; and of Somersham, Hunts. ; Prebendary of Lincoln ; Dean of Westminster. Cons. Bishop of Ely, 4 May, 1845. Died 7 Jan., 1864. 1842 George Butlbe, D.D. Fellow of Sidney, Sussex; Head Master of Harrow ; Rector of Gayton, Northants. ; Chan cellor of Peterborough. Died 1853 ; buried at Gayton. 1853 Augustus Page Saundbes, D.D., F.R.S. Student of Christ Church ; Vicar of Tanworth, Warw. ; Head Master of Charterhouse. Died 21 July, 1878 ; buried at Kensal Green. Handsome memorial tablet in Latin is placed outsids the Chapel at Charterhouse. 1878 John Jambs Stewart Peeownb, D.D. Fellow of Corpus Christi, and of Trinity, Cambridge ; Vice-principal of Lampeter ; Hulsean Lecturer at Cambridge ; Canon of Llandaff ; Prebendary of S. David's ; Rector of Llandysilio, Montgomery ; Margaret Professor in Divinity ; Hulsean Professor in Divinity. Cons. Bishop of Worcester, 2 Feb., 1891. 1891 Maesham Aeoles, D.D. Ot Merton; Vicar of Gretton and Duddington, Northants. ; Chancellor of Peterborough ; Canon of Peterborough; Rector of Barnack, Northants. Died 19 Nov., 1892. 1893 William Clavell Ingram, D.D. Of Jesus. Cambridge; Vicar of Kirk Michael, Isle of Man, and of S. Matthew, Leicester. Died 26 April, 1901. 1901 William Haggbe Barlow, D.D. Scholar and Exhibitioner of S. John's, Cambridge; ordained 1858; Vicar of S. Bartholomew's 1861; Rector of S. Ebbe's, Oxford, 1873; Principal of Ch. Miss. Society's Coll., Islington, 1875; Vicar of S. James's, Clapham, 1882; Vicar of S. Mary's, Islington, 1887: Prebend of S. Paul's Cathedral, 1898. CROWLAND ABBEY, FROM S.E. Ctowlanb Hbbe^. fo visitor to Peterborough who is interested in ecclesiastical architecture, should fail to make his way to Crowland Abbey. Unfortunately ^ I it is not easily reached, except by carriage, or bicycle. Its distance from Peterborough is just over eight miles. Eailways give but little help. The only stations available are Bye Green and Thorney, on the Wisbech line, and Crowland is over four miles off; or Peakirk, on the Boston line, where the traveller is flve miles from the Abbey. In one respect the walk from Peakirk to Crowland is dreary and dismal; flats on every side, nothing of beauty to attract the eye, a monotonous level with the distant Abbey ever in view but seeming to remain distant as one plods along. But in another respect, and to some observers, the walk is by no means devoid of interest ; a hundred yards to the left of the road may be seen the remains of Kenulph's Stone, one of the old sanctuary crosses ; a little to the right is ^a Decoy, one of the best preserved and most flourishing in the country ; very frequently in the low meadows by the river may be seen herons from the heronry at Milton, and above head wild duck and other fen birds ; and in the dikes by the side of the bank, (for the whole road is on an artificial embankment,) may be gathered many specimens of rare fen flowers in their proper seasons. The place itself is not impressive. But this is for gotten in the delight of inspecting the remains of the famous Abbey. It was indeed famous for many reasons. It was one of the earliest of such foundations; it was A CEOWLAND ABBEY. the ' ' nursery of religion and literature when persecution and ignorance threatened the destruction of aU that is holy and intellectual"; it was the parent of the University of Cambridge ; it was the scene of a terrible slaughter by the Danes ; it figures in the exploits of Hereward ; it frequently entertained Kings and other expensive guests ; it was fortified and held against the Parliament in the seventeenth century. The Abbey Church was dedicated to SS. Bartholomew and Guthlac. The latter Saint was not adopted as Patron from the first : but the coat of arms of the Abbey, and in later times the tokens issued in the town, exhibit the joint invocation, shewing three knives and three whips quarterly. The knife is the familiar symbol of S. Bartholomew, alluding to his traditional martyrdom by flaying. Knives used to be given away to all comers by the Convent on S. Bartholomew's day. S. Guthlac's whip was esteemed one of the most cherished possessions of the Monks ; and in their greatest distress they never forsook it. They declared that it had belonged to the Apostle himself, before it came into the possession of their founder. The statues of both Saints remain in the West Front, each with his symbol in his hand. Guthlac was born in 673, and died in 713. Brought up as a soldier he renounced, when 25 years old, the profession of arms, and devoted himself to a hermit's life. Ethelbald, next heir to the throne of Mercia, about 710, endeavoured to anticipate the death of Ceolred, the King, by seizing his crown. Obliged to fly he came to Guthlac, who had a little oratory at Crow land; and he encouraged the fugitive and foretold his ultimate success. Ethelbald promised, if this came true, to found a monastery on the spot. When he became King he kept his word, though Guthlac did not hve to see it. The first Church, thus built, is said to have been of stone. It was wholly destroyed by the Danes in 870. Seventy or eighty years later a new Church was raised by Abbot Turketyl ; but this could not have been very substantial, as in less than 120 years it had fallen into decay. A new building, erected in the time of Abbot CEOWLAND ABBEY. 6 Wulketyl (1052-76), was destroyed by fire in 1091. A partial restoration was accomplished ; but it was not till the time of Abbot Jofirid (1109-24) that the entire re building was undertaken. The rebuilding commenced, according to the chronicle, in 1113 ; the foundation stones of the several parts of the building being laid by various dignitaries amid great rejoicings. Of this build ing some fragments remain. These are the admirable arcaded west front of the south aisle, with its strange mixture of round and pointed arches ; two west buttresses, nearly hidden by the large buttresses of Perpendicular date ; and a portion of the west front of the present tower, which was originally the external front of the north aisle. The lower part of this, with some other interesting features, can be seen in the small chamber to the south of the existing west porch. Also the great western arch of the central tower is standing at the east end of the ruined nave. Many of the details of this arch are very beautiful. It used to be entirely filled up with brickwork, except for a square window in the centre. One of the shafts on the north-east side of this arch, now external, has an elaborate capital with minute carving, embracing distinctly, among other ornaments, the dog-tooth. It should be mentioned that Abbot Joffrid's designs were altered during the progress of the work, and the parts already completed much damaged by an earthquake that occurred in 1117. In the Chronicon Anglia Petriburgense it is said that an earth quake took place in Italy that lasted for forty days. At Milan Cathedral several men of the highest rank were discussing affairs of state beneath the tower, when one of them was summoned by name and left the building ; he had scarcely gone out when the tower fell, and killed all the rest of the nobles. Many parts of England were visited by this earthquake ; and the account of Crowland which goes by the name of Ingulf (though he was dead before the earthquake took place) expressly records that "the new work of the Church of Crowland, which as yet was weak in consequence of having no roof to hold 4 CEOWLAND ABBEY. it together, split asunder, most shocking to relate I in the southern wall of the body thereof, with horrible yawnings," &c. The late Canon Moore, of Spalding, who devoted great pains to the elucidation of the archi tectural history of the place, and to whose published papers this account is much indebted, considers that evidence of this is still to be seen at the east end of the present nave. On the north side, west of the great arch, are to be seen the beginnings of the north arcade. The arches were low ; and there was a comparatively large triforium above. And on the south side they were originally the same. But after the earthquake, when the south arcade had to be rebuilt, tlje arches were made more lofty, and there was no triforium. Besides the Norman work still standing there are very numerous fragments to be found : on the south side of the ruined nave many of these have been built into a low wall, where the excellence of their execution is well seen. Of pure Early English work is the west front of the nave. This is the great feature of the ruins. It is richly ornamented in every part. Above the west door are four rows of niches, nearly all having the figures remaining in them. The great doorway is divided by a central shaft into two doors, each with a pointed arch ; above this is a large and deep quatrefoil adorned with sculpture of five scenes from the career of S. Guthlac. The two upper tiers of niches are however not part of the original design. When the great west window was inserted, towards the end of the fourteenth century, these two rows of niches were added at the same time. The tracery of the window is now gone ; but its character can be seen from the slight portions remaining at the top. The scenes in the quatrefoil, and the persons represented by the statues, have given rise to many attempts at explanation; but some of these attempts are little more than conjecture, the carving being in many places so worn as to defy identification. Canon Moore elaborated a theory as to the statues, of which the following is a summary. Originally, he thinks, there were seven tiers of statues ; the two uppermost, in STATUES IN THE WEST PEONT. 5 the gable, being now destroyed. They probably contained statues of our Saviour, and of SS. Mary and John. The mutilated statue on the bridge, of which we shall speak hereafter, is possibly the central figure of all, represent ing our Lord in the act of blessing. Proceeding from north to south the other figures are thought to have been *8. Philip, S. James the greater, S. Thomas, S. Andrew, S. Peter, 8. Paul, 8. Thomas, 8. Matthias, 8. James the less, and S. Jude. These were in the topmost row. Below these are King Ethelbald, S. Bartholomew, 8. Guthlac, King Eichard II. ; these are in what is now the second row from the top. Below are four statues assigned to Abbot Kenulph, William the Conqueror, his Queen Matilda, and Abbot Ingulf. In the next row, at the foot of the great west window are two Bishops, in the outside niches, to which no names are assigned, King Edred, called " theEestorer, '' and Siward, a Knight and benefactor. The four niches, two on each side of the door, would be well occupied with the four Evangelists. The symbols held by many of the figures leave no doubt as to their identity. Notice, in particular, the spear and outstretched hand of 8. Thomas, the club of 8. James the less, the keys of 8. Peter, the flaying knife of S. Bartholomew, the whip of S. Guthlac. The flve scenes in the quatrefoil over the shaft dividing the two doors are thus explained : — Arrival of S. Guthlac at the island with two companions ; the only visible inhabitants of the place being a sow with her litter; (2) Temptation of the hermit by fiends (this is in the centre) ; (3) the visit of King Ethelbald, or, as some say, the consecration of 8. Guthlac by Bishop Hedda of Lichfield; (4) the death of the Saint, one attendant, and his sister Pega (who gave her name to the village of Peakirk before mentioned), being present ; (5) his burial, while his spirit is born heaven-ward by angels. There appear to be no remains whatever of any work executed during the Decorated period. The nave and * This description is of the series when complete. Some are wholly gone. and the persons assigned are conjectured from various considerations, and comparisons with other similar sets of figures. 6 CEOWLAND ABBEY. aisles were rebuilt, the latter being vaulted, very early in the fifteenth century. The present tower was built in 1427. In 1464 all the works were completed, and some further vaulting erected in the north nave aisle, which was much larger than the other. This was known as "the lower church," and was used, as it is to this day, as the parish church. At the dissolution of the monasteries most of the buildings were destroyed; and those that were left fell gradually to ruin. At that time the nave was assigned to the parishoners. In 1643 the building was fortified and held against the Parliamentary forces. Very con siderable damage was then done. The west window, till the time of the attack, was perfect, as well as the south aisle, and the clerestory windows on both sides of the nave. The nave roof fell in about 1688 ; and probably the nave gables fell at the same time. The clerestory windows remained till the nineteenth century : those on the north side, being considered insecure, were taken down ; nine of those on the south side were blown down. There seems to be no record of the precise time when the south aisle was removed, or the eastern arches of the nave arcade on the south. About forty years ago the whole of the west front was in a most precarious condition, and very great fears were entertained that it would fall. This catastrophe was happily averted. Mr. Scott (afterwards Sir G. G. Scott) undertook the task of preserving the front ; and by a careful and elaborate process the whole mass was forced back into its original position. A few defective stones were removed, and sound ones substituted. Part of the west end of the south aisle was at the same time (1860) taken down and rebuilt. In the year 1888 the condition of the remaining part of the Abbey Church was found to be in a very un satisfactory state. By the indefatigable labours of the Eector a general interest was excited in the subject. And though the response to his appeals was not so generous as was to be expected, yet enough was raised to complete many most substantial im- RBSTOHATION WOEK. 7 provements. The work contemplated was divided into ten sections ; and in 1895 seven of these had been finished, at a cost of upwards of £2,000. These sections can be thus briefly set forth : — Section I. — The Norman arch and screen, and the adjaoant piers, have been made secure. Section II. — The south nave arcade has been strengthened and pointed. Section III. — The south jamb of the south-west pier, of the western tower, and south-west wall of the tower have been rebuilt ; and the south and east walls of the parish church pointed in cement. Section IV. — Tower piers have been underpinned. Section V. — The north-west wall of the tower, to the height of 38 feet, and the spiral staircase, to the height of 32 feet, have been rebuilt. Section VI. — The west window has been re-glazed; the old library, over the porch, re-opened : the squinch arches in the bell chamber rebuilt ; and the parapet and adjacent gutter made good. Section VII. — The north wall of the parish church has been underpinned. There still remain some things, that are essentially necessary, to be done ; and there is great need of further help from the public. The Eector writes that the Abbey "is still a noble building, wonderful in its situation, unique in its beauty, and a valuable relic of Christian devotion, interesting to the architect, the historian, and the antiquarian." In the interior of the church there is not much that will detain the visitor. But there are some features of interest. The large bosses in the roof are very fine. One has the sacred monogram; one has "Alia," appa rently for Alleluia ; one has a bird with a scroll, and a barrel, seemingly a rebus on the name of Abbot Litlington (1427-69). On the north side is a chapel with groined roof ; on the chamfers of the arch from the church are considerable remains of inscriptions in black letter. No connected sentence can be made out. 8 CEOWLAND ABBEY. as the letters are almost too worn to be read. But the words are English: and the present writer thinks that he has deciphered, with the aid of a strong glass, the following fragment: — ". . . . pie of yis state God (?) you kepe from sodeyn hate of w . . . " The eastern part is screened off by a perpendicular roodscreen, on which are remains of colouring. On the east side are some good specimens of carving. The boat is here again to be seen, with the founder of the abbey (it is pre sumed) punting : also three fishes with intersecting tails. On the south side of the entrance door is an old font, with canopied head, built into the wall. Two monuments in the interior alone call for any remark. A tablet on the south of the part that does duty for a chancel, dated 1728-9, has the ancient formula of prayer for the dead, ' ' Cujus Animse propitietur Deus. ' ' And a painted board on the north side of the church, after the names of the persons commemorated, has these singular lines, which are not painted as poetry : — ' ' Mans life is like unto a winters day : some break their fast and so departs away, others stay dinner then departs full fed : the Longest age but supps and goes to bed. O Eeader then behold and see : as we are now so must you be. 1706." In the course of the recent works two large memorial stones were discovered, both of very great interest. One of these is now preserved against the south wail inside the tower. It was found over the entrance to the present church. It has an incised figure under a tre foiled canopy, and the hands hold a pair of compasses, and a stonemason's square. Eound the edge is an inscrip tion in old French : h ici : gist : mestee : willm : DB : -WEEMIGTON : LB : MASON : LALME : DE : KY : DEV : Y : p(ab) : SA : geace : dovnbz : absolvtion. In Enghsh: — "Here lieth Master William of Warmington the Mason on whose soul God of his grace grant absolu tion. " There is no date: but Norman French inscrip tions after 1350 are very rare; and by that time the characteristic lettering here used was discontinued in favour of black letter: so that we should not be far MONUMENTS. 9 wrong if we assign this stone to the early part of the fourteenth century. The other stone referred to is of equal interest. It was taken from the foundation of the buttress at the south-west of the tower, and is now built up against the east wall of the west front. It is of Barnack rag, and upwards of seven feet in length. It is remarkable for having been used twice. The original inscription is round the edge, and is in ancient capitals similar to those on the stone last described, but certainly of earlier date, and it may be assigned with tolerable certainty to the thirteenth century. The handsome floriated cross in the centre of the slab belong to the original design. The inscription round the edge is a good example of allitera tion, as well as of the play upon words that is frequently found in early mediaeval inscriptions: it makes a com plete hexameter verse. Expanding the contractions the line is this : — •f PBTBE : PEECES : PEO : ME : PETEO : pastoe : PIE : PBOME. * And this may be freely translated : — "0 Peter, good Shepherd, utter prayers for me, also named Peter." But a second inscription has been added, at the head of the floriated cross, early in the fifteenth century. Free from abbreviations this reads as follows : — Orate pro anima Johannis Tomson; "Pray for the soul of John Tomson." A man of this name is recorded in the Chronicle, with twelve others, as having given ' ' temporal benefits " to the church at the time when Abbot Overton, apparently soon after 1405, carried out some extensive works at the monastery. The visitor should note, among the names on the grave stones, several that are manifestly of French origin. These are descendants of some French settlers who came over from Holland to assist in draining the Fens. In digging down in the south part of the nave it was discovered that the foundations of the Perpendicular piers were constructed of wrought stones of earlier date. One such foundation has been left exposed, and presents a very singular appearance. Two stone cof&ns, formerly * See illustration of slab on next page. besieged by ckomwbll. 11 in the churchyard have now been moved into the tower for shelter. The construction of the tower, as seen from within, is singular. There are no less than four galleries. A huge wooden gallery that rose above the screen at the east end of the church, in which all the seats faced westwards, was happily removed in 1893. The peal of bells that hung in the centre tower had the reputation of being the first raised in all England. Of the present five bells one is of pree-Eeformation date. Abbot Theodore (856-70) was murdered by the Danes on the steps of the altar. Abbot Litlington (1427-69) entertained Henry VI. at Crowland, and admitted him a member of the house. He was visited also by Edward IV. John WeUs was Abbot at the surrender : he received an allowance of £130 6s. 8d. A punning motto, "Benedicite, Fontes, Domino," was carved on his chair, afterwards in the possession of Bishop Dove, of Peter borough. Abbot Overton (1392-1417) became blind before his death. So, in later years, did James Benson (Eector, 1730-61). The latter could go through the whole service without hesitation. He had a grey mare, which carried him safely for many years, but at last had to be killed, owing to its breaking its leg. A new horse, given to Benson, ran away with him and threw him, his death ensuing almost immediately. In the porch is a curious tablet recording the "singular faculties" of William Hill, the blind sexton. It has been mentioned that the Abbey was held against the Parliament during the civil war in the seventeenth century. This forms an interesting episode in the history of the place. A few years over the century had elapsed since the dissolution of the monasteries, when the Eoyalists of Crowland garrisoned the town and fortified the Abbey. In his paper on the Abbey, read by Canon Moore before the Lincolnshire Architectural Society, he mentions some incidents of the fighting. The incumbent of Spalding, Mr. Eam, had been very active on the side of the Parliamentary party. Captain Welby, who was in command of the King's forces in Crowland, had taken him prisoner and brought him to 12 CEOWLAND ABBEY. Crowland. When the troops of the Parliament came to attack the place, poor Mr. Eam was brought out and stuck up in front of the breastwork. His friends, mistaking him for Mr. Styles, the Eoyalist clergyman of Crowland, fired upon him for some time. Colonel Edward King, of Ashby, on Lincoln Heath, was in command of the opposing force, although he was at the time High Sheriff of the County, and, as such, had sworn allegiance to the King. He afterwards returned to his duty to his sovereign, and was one of the first to help to bring back the son to his father's throne. In his place in parliament he proposed the restoration of Charles II. The town was taken by Cromwell's soldiers on 9 May, 1643. The condition of the roof at the time may be imagined from the fact that a man fell through it. Much of the painted glass that remained was broken by the soldiers. From a notice in a weekly journal published in the interest of the party opposed to the King, we learn that the forces sent against Crowland had actually been with drawn, though only for a few days. Under date 25 April, 1643, we read : — " Collonel Cromwell is at Hunting don himself, part of his forces are at Peterborough, he is not full 1000 horse and foot in all ; he hath no great incouragement to advance into Lincolnshire, unless things stood in a better posture : he intends to trie Crowland once more, the first attempt not taking, because they that went and were imployed in that service, perceiving their enemies place a Minister and divers other friends in that place where they were to shoot, did at first forebeare to shoot ; but after consult, they resolved to do it: and when they gave fire to the Canon it brake ; then they resolved not to attempt that way, but to try some other way but that not being agreed to, they came back." A fortnight later there is this account : — ' ' From Peterborow it is informed, that Crowlandmen when they could no longer hold out, left the Towne, and betooke themselves to their little Boats, yet that shift but little furthered their escape ; for the Countrey-men (to whom they have done so much THE TEIANGULAlt BEIDGB. 13 mischiefe) are resolved to cut them in pieces, if they can meet with them ; and the other was they cannot passe; about nine or ten of them are already taken. " Another journal, of the same date, says that Cromwell went from Peter-borough, when he drove Capt. Welby "and his wicked Imps" from Crowland. The triangular bridge is quite unique, and is itself worth a long joumey to behold. The chronicles, as early as 943, and again in 966, mention a "pons triangu laris " ; from which it is .conjectured that the present bridge, the date of which is about 1350, was built on the site of a more ancient one. It now stands in the road way on dry ground. The water that flowed beneath it was probably never of great volume, and was perhaps little more than drainage water. It is crossed by three very steep flights of stone steps, and three inclined planes which meet over the crown of the arches : the roadways averaging eight feet in width. It was evidently only intended for foot passengers. Canon Moore imagined that it was the base of a large preach ing cross. Built into one of the walls is a large figure of stone which has occasioned much disputing as to its subject. Some say it is meant for King Ethelbald ; some for our Lord enthroned, and possibly the very flgure that filled the uppermost niche in the west front ; but public opinion in the place still favours the idea that it is meant for Oliver Cromwell. Triangular buildings are very uncommon. In Northamptonshire there is a very remarkable Triangular Lodge at Eushton ; and also the very graceful Triangular Eleanor Cross at Geddington, not many miles off. A house belonging to Lord Eadnor, at Longford, near Salisbury, is given as another instance. And one church, Maldon, in Essex, has a tower of triangular plan. ^botne^ Hbbe^. FTEE seeing Crowland, a further drive of five miles will bring the visitor to Thorney. On the road, just within a gate on the right, is to be seen the best of the remaining sanctuary crosses. It is very near the spot where the three counties of Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire, and Cambridgeshire meet. For many years this cross was lost. It had been thrown into a drain. About 60 or 60 years ago it was replaced on its ancient site. It has a massive base, on which are four shields. One is too much worn to be deciphered ; the others have on them (1) a cross, (2) three whips, for S. Guthlac, (3) three knives, for S. Bartholomew. The pillar above is octagonal, and tapering : the head is altogether gone. Thorney itself (if there is no intention of combining a visit to Crowland) can be reached by train from Peter borough. The place bears a marked contrast to its Lincolnshire neighbour and rival. Here there is every appearance of prosperity. The whole looks well cared for, and gives ample evidence of a long period of generous treatment at the hands of a series of wealthy and liberal owners. The only remains of the ancient abbey consist of a portion of the west end of the nave. This, with modern transepts, but without any chancel, now forms the parish church. The new work was built at an unfavourable time, before the revived interest in ecclesiastical archi tecture had produced its most eminent students, and does not blend harmoniously with the ancient work. Modern work, built in the Norman style, is hardly ever successful. The stone employed is moreover wholly out of keeping with the appearance of the old Barnack rag. THOBNEY ABBEY. 15 Before the monastery wa,s founded there was a hermitage here, which had existed since about the year 662, a few years only later than the original church at Medehamsted, as Peterborough was first called. This hermitage shared in the general desolation caused by the Danes in 870. A century later a Benedictine monastery was founded, by Bishop Ethelwold, of Win chester. By this time the place, at first called Ancarig, had acquired like Westminster the name of Thorney, the Island of Thorns. The church first built was pulled down in 1085, and a new one erected ; and this was completed in 1108, but not dedicated until 1128. The present nave is a portion of this church, consisting of five bays, with the triforium arches above them. The west front is very much later. An illuminated manuscript in the Cottonian collection gives the dates of the building. In 1098 "we men of Thorney entered into the new church" on 12 Nov., "the presbytery, the two porches, and the tower only being completed." In 1108 "the church of Thorney was completed and the last stone laid on S. Luke's day ; and in the following year the towers and pinnacles of the front were finished." The dedication took place on 5 Nov., 1128. The whole of the domestic buildings having been completely destroyed, as well as the choir and transepts, and part of the nave of the church, we cannot trace the gradual erection of the buildings from the different styles of the architecture. In the Thorney register however some of the works are named and dated. Abbot Eobert, who died in 1236, was buried in the Lady Chapel erected by himself. This was afterwards destroyed to make way for one of much greater magnificence. A new Chapter-house, Hall and Chapel for the Abbot's dwell ing, and a grand new Eefectory, were all added within fifty years after 1270. The five original Norman bays of the nave that remain are now filled up with masonry, and pierced with windows. At first, of course they opened into the nave aisles. Above these was a triforium passage, the arches to which remain as clerestory windows, the Norman 16 THOBNEY ABBEY. clerestory, except two windows at the west end not now seen from ' within, having been altogether removed. Each pier has a massive semicircular shaft, reaching to the roof, where it is now met by a continuous moulding, projecting much too far, and utterly incongruous. The piers are alternately circular, with this inner projection, and shafted. Each of these latter piers has two attached shafts where one of the former has a quadrant of a circle. The capitals on the triforium arcade look a little later in character than those in the arches of the nave, but all are doubtless of the same date, and the style entirely agrees with the date given previously from the annals. The west front, though much altered, is still a fine specimen of Norman work. It is flanked by two square turrets. At the angles they are several times indented, hut have neither chamfer nor shaft. They are sur mounted by octagonal turrets, embattled. Apparently these last were added in 1638. That date is over the west door, and considerable alterations were then made. It seems not unlikely that the ruins of the old church were then first put into decent order, so as to be fit for Divine Service. The stones with which the nave arches are now blocked were part of the original building. The rest of the stones have almost entirely disappeared. They would be in great request for building purposes : and in the History of Corpus Christi College at Cambridge we are told that the Earl of Bedford granted 146 tons of stone from the dissolved monastery of Thorney, towards building the chapel there. The west front moreover retains traces of a considerable enrich ment made in the fifteenth century. Between the side turrets, and occupying the whole space between them, is a noble window arch. The tracery is gone, and the arch partly blocked. The window now seen is of the date named, 1638. It is of five lights, with embattled transom. It is remarkable that the internal shafts of this window are Norman : but they were probably moved to this position during the alterations. Above the larger arch, and of the same period, is a row of nine niches THOBNEY ABBEY. 17 under a horizontal parapet. Each niche retains a statue. The central one appears to be the Saviour. The rest are Apostles, each holding in his hand some symbol. One has a battle-axe, and one has a ship. All have two holes in the chest, as if riveted to the wall. At the west end of the nave, on each side, there remains an original clerestory window, now filled up with masonry. Eound the arch of that on the north, and down each jamb, is a double row of billets. The church was originally dedicated to the Virgin Mary. But after the translation to it of the bones of S. Botolph, it was placed under the united invocation of SS. Mary and Botolph, and is so described in the charters. The modern work in the Norman style at the east end was done about 1840. The interior arrangements were very unimpressive, not to say depressing. But a great improvement has been effected of late years. In 1888 the seating was re-arranged, the galleries removed, the vestry enlarged, and many other alterations, all for the better, were carried out. It does not appear that a single inscribed memorial stone of the monastic period remains. During the recent restoration an ancient slab was discovered that had formed the lid of a stone coffin, and had a large cross upon it. It had been used, in 1651, as a tombstone to the memory of a Steward of the Earl of Bedford. The only other monument of interest is a brass inscription inserted in the wall. It is in Latin, and commemorates the Eeverend Ezechiel Danois, of Compiegne in France, first Pastor of the French congregation here, which (as the inscription records) first began to assemble in 1652. He lived here 22 years, and died in 1674. This French congregation was formed of a colony of refugees, who settled here in consequence of an invitation from the Earl of Bedford to come over from Holland to assist in draining the Fens. They met for worship at a toUgate towards Wisbech. A register, in French, of Baptisms from 1654 to 1727, is preserved here. There are 1710 entries. At the latter date the descendents of the 18 THOBNEY ABBEY. original settlers conformed to the Church of England. Some of the dikes and droves (as the French Drove) have names that identify them with these settlers. Many names in the parish and neighbourhood give evidence of a French origin ; and in a walk round the churchyard a considerable number of such names can be seen upon the gravestones. One of the Abbots erected a large gateway which was of considerable magnificence. In a description of towns in Edward II. 's time "Entree de Thorneye " is named as something specially grand. Abbot David, who died in 1255, is recorded in the annals to have built the great gateway ; and this is no doubt what was meant. The modern East window is a copy of some ancient glass at Canterbury Cathedral. In the nave windows are some specimens of Flemish glass, giving small scriptural scenes, in black and white. One of the Abbots before the Conquest, Lefsius, became Bishop- of Worcester. The last Abbot, Eobert Blyth, was Bishop of Down and Connor, and acted as Suffragan to the Bishop of Ely for many years before his death, which took place in 1547. He left in structions in his will to be buried, not in the despoiled monastery where he once held the chief rule, but in the neighbouring church of Whittlesey S. Mary. OBJECTS OF INTEREST Cit^ anb IFleiobbourboob. THE TOWN HALL, MAEKET PLACE. This is a curious old building, well worthy of the attention of the visitor. It consists of one long chamber supported on arches, and the building bears the date on the east side of 1671. It is sur mounted by the royal arms cast in iron. The heraldic emblems affixed to the east wall are a mystery. Local antiquarians have been unable to decide whose arms they are, and why they appear in that position. The upper hall was formerly used as a court in which the Recorder sat, as well as for the ordinary meetings of Magistrates ; but after the erection ot the new gaol on the Thorpe Road the magisterial courts ceased to be held there. The room is now used as a meeting place for the Peterborough Town and County Councils. Soon after the incorporation of the town in 1874, the hall was thoroughly renovated, and was refitted with modern furniture, &c. I 20 A guide to the CHUECHBS AND CHAPELS. St. John't Chureh is in Church Street, close to the Market Place. This, the parish church of Peterborough, was originally built at the east of the Cathedral, as the old town formerly stood in that part more than where it does now. There are still to be found indica tions of the old church in a field beside the gravel walk, and the old vicarage is still in existence in St. John's Street, having been transformed into a public house known as the "Marquis of Granby," a sketch of which is given in "Fenland Notes and Queries," Vol. V., p. 5. At the beginning of the fifteenth century, the floods fre quently prevented the inhabitants attending the church. It was therefore taken down and rebuilt on its ¦ present site in 1407. The parishioners bore the entire cost of its erection, which, con sidering the small place Peterborough was then, is remarkable. The abbey, however, gave a portion of the materials of the chapels of St. Thomas of Canterbury, which stood near the Cathedral Gateway, the chancel of which still remains and is used as the Natural History Society's Museum. The church consists of tower, western doorway, nave with north and south aisles, chancel also with aisles, a door at the north-east, and a south porch. A north porch exists with the doorway bricked up. The tower contains a peal of eight bells. The curious carvings in the groined roof of the south porch deserve more than a passing inspection. St. Mark's Chv/rch is a handsome edifice, standing on the Lincoln Road. It was erected in 1856, the Rev. C. Campe being the first Incumbent. It consists of a north-east tower and spire, nave with aisles, chancel with aisles, south porch, and a large addition at the west end, built in 1889, and now used as a vestry. The grounds of the church are extremely pretty and well kept, and the interior decorations are exceptionally attractive. The tower contains only one bell. The coloured west window was given to the church by the late Mr. G. H. Whalley, who represented Peterborough in Parliament for many years ; it represents in medallions the arms of the 28 Bishoprics of,[England. St. Mary's Church stands on the New Road, but can be reached from St, Mark's by walking down Chuich Walk and across the CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 21 Recreation Ground. It is a new church, of about the same date as St. Mark's, but at the time ot being built was much smaller. It originally consisted ot a nave, south aisle, and chancel with apse. About 30 years after its erection a north aisle was added, and in 1887 a tower was built at the north-east. In the same year a peal of five beUs was presented to the church, one by the late Mr. H. P. Gfates. The interior of the church, which is built in the Early English style of architecture, is pretty, and is improved by the use of coloured bricks. St. Paul's Chwoh is at New England, and was built principally for the use of railway men. It consists of a nave with aisles, chancel and apse, and a tower. AU Saints' Chvrch stands on Park Road, and is a large and sub stantial structure. At first only the chancel and a portion of the nave was erected, but in 1894 the nave was completed. The church now consists of nave, south aisle, and chancel. The lower portion of the tower has been erected, and when it is completed the edifice will be one of the finest in the city. The nave and chancel are included under one long root, which gives a sky outline of consider able dignity. Although situated on the Park Road, it is in close proximity, to the thickly populated district of Millfield, for which it is the parish church. St. Augustine's, Woodston, is a pretty little church, over the bridge, about a mile from the Market Place, and although it is of ancient structure, it has of late years received so many material additions that it is probable there is now much more new work than old. It consists of a small embattled west tower, nave with aisles, north and south transepts, and chancel. There was formerly a Saxon Church here, but in a restoration many years ago, the old Saxon tower was pulled down and a new one erected. But a portion of the old rubble wall and window were allowed to remain and Were protected by an arch, and can still be examined from the outside. The belfry contains three bells. St. Margaret's, Fletton, is also over the bridge, about a mile and a half from the Market Place, and is just outside the Municipal boundary. This is an ancient and interesting building, consisting 22 A GUIDE TO THE of a tower, spire, nave with north and south aisles, and chancel An interesting Saxon churchyard cross still stands here near the tower. Bwptist Chofpel, Queen Street, is a large building, and is hand somely ornamented in the interior. It was erected in 1870, and it accommodates between 800 and 900 persons. It is buUt of brick with Bath stone work. The school and class-rooms are in the base ment, the chapel is erected over them, being reached by two broad flights of stone steps. The cost of building was nearly £3000. Ths Roman Catholic Church is a stone structure, not yet completed, on the Park Road. The small chapel in Queen Street which had served for 40 years, in succession to a still smaller one in Cumber- gate, was sold in 1895 to the Peterborough Corporation, when the present building was commenced. It consists of nave, north and south aisles, north and south transepts, and chancel. Running at right angles to it is a stone built Presbytery. About 28 feet remains to be added to the nave with north and south porches, and a plain brick wall has been run up to the Park Road end until the building is completed. The present building and site cost between £5000 and £6000. Wesley cm Church. This is a handsome building, possessing three spires, in Wentworth Street. It occupies the site of an older chapel which was pulled down to enable the present structure to be erected. It was opened in 1S75, the Mayor and Corporation attending the service in state. It possesses a handsome facade, which is worthy of a more open approach. Underneath the chapel is a very large school-room. Trinity Congregatimial Church. This building, surmounted by a handsome spire, is in Priestgate. It was opened on March 15th, 1866, having oost about £6000. Since then, however, it has under gone several improvements, and a commodious school-room was in 1883 built at the back. In 1895 the interior was thoroughly renovated. Westgate Congregational Church. The foundation stone of this building was laid on March 9th, 1859. It was built to accommodate 650 persons, the original cost being about £4000. It is a gothic CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 23 building, its stone and brick facade being pierced with an elegant decorated window. On the night of January 10th, 1891, the build ing was almost totally destroyed by fire, only the outside walls being left standing, and these had received considerable damage. The building, however, was re-erected and enlarged. The sub scription list was largely contributed to by members of all de nominations, including the Dean of Peterborough (Dr. Perowne, afterwards Bishop of Worcester). The Primitive Methodists, The Free Methodists, The Salvation Army, The ChristadelpMans, The Brethren, and The Particular Baptists also have places of worship in the city. THE KINS'S SCHOOL. Until 1886 the school was situated in the Minster Precincts. The old chancel of St. Thomas of Canterbury's Chapel was used as the school-room, and the houses adjoining were occupied by the masters and boarders. It was founded by Henry VIII., and was placed under the direction of the Dean and Chapter. It possesses various Scholarships and Exhibitions. The cathedral choristers are educated free at this school. In 1886, a handsome building for the accommodation of the masters, boarders, &c., with a spacious school-room, was erected on the Park Road. A large piece ot land adjoining was secured as a playground. The building is a handsome structure in red brick, having a clock tower in the centre. THE TRAINING COLLEGE. This is a large and handsome building, facing the Law Courts, on City Road. It was completed in 1864, the work having previously been carried on in temporary premises in Broad Bridge Street. The present building was designed by Mr. G. G. Scott, having a frontage to the Cathedral of 240ft., and standing on two acres of land. Accommodation is provided for about 50 students, who are prepared for positions of teachers in Church of England Schools. The building cost about £5000. In 1896 some considerable additions were made to it. A Practising School is added to the College, and in this school the college students practice the art of teaching. 24 a guide to the deacon's school. This is a large middle-class school, situate in Deacon Street, off Queen Street. It was founded by Mr. Thomas Deacon, a Peterborough worthy, in 1721, and provided for the clothing and educating twenty poor boys free, who, after completing their education, were apprenticed, the premiums being paid out of the endowment. From the time of its origin, until 1880, the school was situate in Cowgate, but in that year the Charity Commissioners took the matter in hand, and re-organized the scheme. The apprenticeship premiums were abolished, and the clothing awards were not allowed to continue, but the Deacon Scholarships were thrown open to competition for boys from the elementary schools in the town. At that time the old buUdings in Cowgate were sold and the new premises were erected. THE INFIEMAET, PEIESTGATB. On December 15th, 1815, the Peterborough Public Dispensary was established, and work commenced in May of the foUovring year, in a small house in Cowgate, opposite the old grave yard. Two years later it was necessary to establish in connection with it " a commodious lodging house," which was built by Earl Fitzwilliam, who merely charged the Governors four per cent, on the original outlay. This house occupied the site of the present police station in Newtown. In 1822 it was decided that the lodging house should be called the " Infirmary," but it was not until 1825 that it became actually more than a lodging house, and that funds were raised to find provisions for the patients, and even then " meat " was not provided from this fund, but the - patients had to pay for this item themselves. At that time the capabilities of the institution were so cramped that post-mortem examinations and surgical operations had to be performed in the same rooms in which other patients were lying. In 1840, the new Poor Law having come into operation, establishing workhouse infirmaries, the Governors seriously discussed whether the infirmary should not be closed, but this suggestion was dismissed ; all payments however by patients were done away with, and the increasing work o* the institute gradually outgrew the accommodation afforded by its premises, and various improvements were made. The house in Cowgate was given up, and the whole CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 25 business transferred to the new premises in Newtown. In 1856, Earl Fitzwilliam offered the handsome building in Priestgate to the Governors in lieu of the premises in Newtown, the offer being accepted with many expressions ot gratitude. From that time until 1884 the history of the institution shews a steady increase of its usefulness, and various extensions of new wards, &o., but in May of that year a severe conflagration occurred which gutted the entire building. The inhabitants however raised subscriptions to the amount of £3000, which completely restored the building and en abled the Governors to carry out several desirable improvements. THE MUSEUM. The Museum of the Peterborough Natural History Society is in the Minster Precincts, and contains a very excellent collection of objects relating to the antiquities, geology, flora, and fauna of the locality. PUBLIC HALLS, AMUSEMENTS, ETC. Amongst the public halls and places of amusement may be mentioned the Theatre in Broadway ; the Free Library, on the Park Road ; the Drill Hall in Queen Street ; the Grand Assembly Rooms in Wentworth Street ; " The Fitzwilliam " Rooms, connected with the " Angel " Hotel, Narrow Street, &c. The cricket ground is reached from the recreation ground. There is boating on the river, and the Nene affords excellent sport for anglers, the waters being preserved by the Peterborough Angling Association. There are also Golf Links at Bottlebridge on the Orton Road, and the Fitzwilliam Hounds have their head quarters just outside the city, at Milton. COEN EXCHANGE. This building stands in Church Street, and is built in the Italian style of architecture. The old theatre originally stood on a portion of the ground, and was removed in order to make way for the Corn Exchange. This was opened on the 2nd of October, 1848. The builders were Messrs. Ruddle and Thompson, the design being by Mr. Hemmingway of Birmingham. In consequence however of the large number of farmers, corn merchants, and agriculturists using the hall, it has been twice greatly enlarged, and is now nearly double its original size. In 1888 the front underwent considerable improvements, and in 1893 further improvements were made. 26 A GUIDE TO THE THE WORKHOUSE. This is a very plain— almost repulsive looking — structure on the Thorpe Road, a little beyond the gaol. It was erected in 1836 at a cost of £4000, but since then various additions have been made to it. At the back it has an infirmary and a chapel. THE GAOL. The building, on the Thorpe Road, is no longer used for this purpose, but forms a constabulary station for the Liberty police force. The Quarter Sessions and Petty Sessions Courts are also held here. It was erected in 1842 at a oost of £10,000, borrowed on the security of the rates. It is a handsome stone building in the Norman style of architecture. The internal arrangements are the same as at the Pentonville prison. Accommodation is provided for the different courts, grand jury room, clerk's offices, turnkeys' rooms, and a debtors' prison. The main building includes the governor's residence, now occupied by the head of the Liberty police, and cells for 26 male and 10 female prisoners, with a chapel. On the scheme being adopted for reducing the number of prisons, Peterborough gaol was closed, and the Magistrates were compelled to rebuy the building from tbe Government. Since then all con victed prisoners are taken to Northampton or Cambridge. FEES LIBEAEY. The Free Library, which, after having been rented for about three years, was purchased by the Corporation in 1895, is situated on the Park Road. It was opened in 1892, and consists of reference and lending library, and reading room. THE CKMETEEY. The general Cemetery was opened in 1859. There are also parochial cemeteries at Woodston and Fletton. The old burial ground for the parish of Peterborough was in Cowgate, but no burials have taken place there since March, 1869. Since the cemetery was opened it has several times been enlarged, and in 1896 the Cemetery Commissioners purchased a strip of land, extending the CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 27 cemetery to the Broadway on the west. By this arrangement entrances are obtained either from the Thorney Road or from the Broadway. It possesses two handsome gothic chapels. It is managed by a Board of Commissioners, seven of whom are annually elected by the Town Council, and the others are the Churchwardens and Overseers of the Parish for the time being. MABKETS AND FAIRS. The principal fair is in October. "Bridge Pair," it is called, from the fact that it is held in the meadows near the town bridge. It is held under a charter of Henry VI., and was formerly of considerable importance, extending over many days. The date for holding the fair has been fixed as the first Wednesday and Thursday in October, instead of the second and third of that month as formerly. In accordance with the terms of the charter, this fair is proclaimed with some amount of ceremony on the Tuesday preceding the first fair day. It still is a very large horse and cattle fair. Another chartered fair is held in July. It is known by the name of Petermass fair, from being held on the Feast of the Dedication of the Cathedral church in the city. It is the older of the two fairs, and is held under a charter of Richard I. It is now proclaimed in a similar manner to Bridge Fair. The principal market day is Saturday, but for some years past a Wednesday market has been gradually growing up. The new Smithfield Cattle Market is opened on Wednesdays and Saturdays, the Wednesday market being chiefly for fat stock, and Saturday for store stock. The old fairs and Saturday market were, untU the incorporation of the city, the property of the Dean and Chapter, but the Corporation purchased them from that body. The Cattle Market was purchased by the Corporation in 1890 from a private company who had established it. ALMSHOUSES. There are three sets of almshouses in the city, which provide accommodation for about 80 poor persons. The Hon. T. Wortley, M.P., gave a very good house and premises in 1744, as a workhouse 28 A GUIDE TO THE for the poor, but when in 1836, the new workhouse was built, this building fell into the hands of the Feoffees of the town, who converted it into almshouses, and put up a new front facing Westgate. In Cumbergate there are almshouses for the accom modation of 44 poor persons. Those on the west side of the street are ancient, but 17 on the east side were rebuilt in 1846. The Dean and Chapter about the same time erected almshouses in the Minster Precincts for poor persons. With the exception of those in the Minster Yard, the almshouses are managed by the Feoffees of the Tovm Charities. THE NENE. The stream rises at Naseby, where two other rivers also have their sources, viz. the Avon and the Welland. The word Nene or Nen is merely a corruption of Avon. Below Peter borough the river is a broad and important stream, but above Peterborough it is nothing considerable. The new cut, an artificial watercourse cut across the fens, is the chief channel by which the Nene waters travel from Peterborough to the sea, emptying themselves into the Wash, a few miles below Wisbech. The river is navigable from the sea to Northampton, the navigation being under the management of three Boards of Commissioners, from Northampton to Thrapston being called the first division, from Thrapston to Peterborough the second division, and from Peter borough to Wisbech the third division. It is considered that the river is tidal up to J'eterborough Bridge, and salt water in high tides has penetrated as far as Woodston Staunch. THE BEIDGB. The present iron bridge was completed in 1873. Up to that time the river had been spanned by a wooden structure, which possessed nothing to recommend it but its antiquity and picturesque appearance. It was built principally of wood, was very narrow, and in the latter years of its existence by no means safe. It has been asserted that it was originally built by Abbot Godfrey in 1300, CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 29 but it was almost re-constructed in 1790. About 1870 it became evident that it was a very insecure structure, and in spite of the constant patchings it had received, it was altogether unable to carry the traffic. In 1871, the inhabitants took steps to erect a new one; the Counties of Huntingdon and Northampton contributed to the cost, and it was resolved to erect the present bridge at a cost of £6000. The old bridge was not removed a day too soon, for the year following the erection of the new one, a flood of unusual severity took place in the river, which would have certainly swept the old ricketty structure away. As it was, one of the iron girders on the north-west corner of the new bridge, was cracked by the force of the stream. The length of the bridge is 160ft., and it is 30ft. wide. The arms in the four shields of the bridge are those of the Lords Lieutenant of Norths, and Hunts., and of the See and Deanery of Peterborough. EBCfiBATION GROUNDS. The Stanley Recreation Ground can be reached either from the New Road or by the Broadway. It was originally given to the town by Mrs. Stanley, but in 1887 it was considerably enlarged by public subscriptions, in honour of the Jubilee ot Queen Victoria. A marble fountain was erected upon it that year to commemorate the event. It is now a large open space, and is well supplied with seats. The Corporation have recently planted trees on the north side. Since then. Recreation Grounds have been provided by the Corporation at New England, Fengate, and also at Fletton Urban. POLICE STATION. The building in situated in Newtown. It was erected in 1845 by subscription as a public infirmary, and was so used for 12 years, when it became the police station.RAILWAYS. The first railway to Peterborough was the London and North Western from Northampton. The first locomotive engine came as tar as Alwalton Lynch, on March 15th, 1845, but the rails being bad 30 A GUIDE TO THE it had to retum to Sibson. The next company to run a line to Peter borough, was the Eastern Counties, now called the Great Eastern. The station that was erected to accommodate the passengers and traffic of these two lines was a very handsome structure, and was larger than it now is. An accident destroyed some of the arcading a few years after its erection, and as it was not required, it was not again erected. On November 13th, 1849, the old Tithe Barn was pulled down to make room for the Great Northern Station, and on August 7th, in the following year, the line was opened from London to Peterborough. Two years afterwards it was extended beyond Peterborough as far as Retford. Subsequently, the Midland Railway from Syston was made to Peterborough, and since then the Great Northern to Boston and Hull, the Midland and Great Northern (joint) Railway to Wisbech and Lynn, the London and North Western to Rugby, and a branch of the Great Northern to Leicester have been constructed. Peterborough con sequently possesses four different systems of railway communica tion, and several local lines in connection with them. BOONGATE. This is a thickly populated district, which lies to the north-east of the Cathedral, the residents being almost entirely of the poorer class. The origin of the term has puzzled most people. Perhaps the most probable solution is that the prefix Boon is the same word which appears in Bon&ie, where it means a great fire. Thus Boon- gate means the great street or the principal street of the town. It is not so now, but it is a well ascertained fact, that that portion of the city now indiscriminately called Boongate, was until about three or four centuries ago not only the principal part but the real city of Peterborough. NEW ENGLAND. This is a railway settlement at the furthest northern limit of the Borough boundary. It is the seat of an extensive engineering plant of the Great Northern Railway, where there are commodious sheds for fitting and repairing engines. A large number of men are employed in the various branches of the work, who live principally OITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 31 in houses which have been erected by the Company. A school has been provided by the Company, who pay a considerable sum for the maintenance of a certificated master and mistress. The Company also contributed largely to the building of St. Paul's church and its endowment. PLACES OF INTEEEST IN THE VICINITY. To the N.E. of the city, seven miles distant by M.R., is Thorney Abbey, the portion yet remaining being used as a parish church. At Crowland, nine miles distant, but to which there is no railway, there is the famous Benedictine Abbey founded by S. Guthlac, a considerable portion of which yet remains. At Northborough, about six miles distant, is an old castle, now a farm house, in which Oliver Cromwell's wife died. Helpston Heath, in this district, is a favourite resort for picnics. To the east ot the city, about six miles distant, is the old fen town of Whittlesey, with its quaint market cross and two ancient churches. To the south lie many interesting Huntingdonshire villages, with their ancient parish churches. Just beyond the borders of the city is Fletton Church, with an ancient stone cross in the churchyard ; a little further on the same road are Stanground, Farcet, and Yaxley. In the latter parish, during the last war between England and France, the French prisoners of war were detained in military barracks, which were situated near the Norman Cross hotel. This hotel stands on the Great North Road, which in coaching days was the great highway for traffic from London to York. It was the scene of many stirring exploits by highwaymen, not the least memorable amongst them being Dick Turpin's famous ride. A tradition survives at Yaxley that Oliver Cromwell baptized a mare in the font of the parish church to shew his contempt for the sacrament. To the west of the city lies the Nene valley, and there are some very pretty and interesting drives or walks, whether the road on the north or the south side of the river is taken. On the north side, about a mile out of the city, is Thorpe Park and Hall, the residence of Lt.-Col. C. I. Strong. In Thorpe village is a curious fortified farm house, and the remains of an ancient way-side cross. Further on is Milton Hall, with its ex tensive deer park, heronry, and kennels, the residence ot G. C. 32 A GUIDE TO THE CITY AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. Fitzwilliam, Esq., and beyond that is the Lynch, an extremely pretty drive across the bed of the valley. Castor village, about four miles from Peterborough, can be reached by rail, but the road way forms a very pretty drive. About a mile or so on the Peter borough side of Castor are two ancient upright stones marked with arrow heads, and a tradition says that they mark the spots where Robin Hood and Little John shot arrows from Alwalton churchyard on the other side of the valley. The present village of Castor, where there are still many remains of tessellated pavements, &c., was the Roman city of Durobrivas. The church too is extremely interesting, and contains an old mural painting representing the church militant, the church suffering, and the church triumphant. The road on the south side of the river passes Woodston church, where there is to be seen a portion of the ancient Saxon tower and window. Further on is Orton Hall, with its magnificent pinetum, one of the seats of the Marquis of Huntly. The old church here possesses many interesting features and monuments. In the same parish is Bottle- bridge, which is claimed to have been the dwelling place of S. Botolph, and where traces of an old church and grave yard may still be seen. About a mile further on is Orton Waterville, with its interesting church, and a mile or so beyond is Alwalton, with its hall. Here the Great North Road is again crossed, and just beyond it is the quaint old church of Chesterton, and three miles further on is Elton, with its hall, the residence of the Earl of Carysfort. Burghley House, at Stamford, is twelve miles distant, and can be reached by convenient trains by no less than three different routes. "^^®^t^ PRINTED BY GEO. t.. CASTER, AT HIS PRINTING OFFICE IN THE *' KINg's LODGINGS," WITHIN THE MINSTHR PRECINCTS, PETERBOROWGH. "TOKIO" TlOA RoOiMS, Church Street, Peterborough, (Opposite tlif (urn t >, li.tngc), , V^ Under tht- pel »inal supeii'iMon nJ ,\!i i, F/.Z-'CJC/^m^K. . Tiity art- wiy ccntr.il, everything used .... is of the best quality, and prices moderate. Ladies from the suhiirln shopping, professional nnd business men with offiee in loieii. lUid our J> iends from the country can have TE.-l and other I. h ,11 1' KKl-'RESH MENTS Daily. ACCOMMOD.VnON lOR CYCLISTS. -'"-'N5 Open at 9 a.m. G"-^-^ W. J. FRANCIS, LIVERY STABLE KP:EPER, BROADWAY, PETERBOROUGH. Every description of Carri.ige on the shortest notic A RR^ / NGEMEN TS can be made for Tourists to visit the neighbouring ABBEY.S of CROWLAND & THORNEY ALSO r.rkOIlLl.V HOUSE & LILFORD HALL. »^— -- - -— -^ ^- ABG EL HOTEL, PETERBORQ.UQH. .- THE mO0 .-tilSJ^-fkAt TOR— ''!¦•¦, FAMILIES, COMMEKCiAL, AND POSTING., Excellent Banqueting Hall for Meetings, Dinners, Balls, &c. DINNERS AND i^UNOHEONS PROVIDED. . ...rjMSKCTUrC UGtiT THBOVGHOVT. . . . AND OPEN CARRIAGES. .;,.•. STABLING -BmD loose BOXWS. Telepbotto No. U, J. CLIFTON, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL, PETERBOROUGH, FAMILY AND OOM MERCIAL. Elet^ant Suites of Apartments, luxuriouslv fnrnistied Ihroii^h- out by Messrs. Maple 6^ Co., London. IIATII AND SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS PERFECT. . . FIRST-CLASS CUISINE AND WINES. Hot and Cold Luncheons every day from i-o until 2 p.m. Commercial Dinner i-o p.m. Market Ordinary Every .Saturday '^^.'^.""na i-so p m Well appointed BILUABD and SMOKING ROOMS. Mesa*. Burroaghs A Walita' TaDle, with Patent Steol Block "Eureka" Bjctra Low Cushions. /; \ elusive Accommodation for Commercial Gentlemen, including Stock RoomSr Commercial Room, and Dining Room. Kir assembly rooms mt by electricity. Mc.uKRN 1m™ovbment.s. Mobkratk Charges. Cbntral SiTUATtOK. . POSTING IN AIL ITS BRANCHES. APPLY PHOPRIETRESS. || ^-- -^^-- -^-^l$( vfSST ?>S^