THE CHAPELS ROYAL m I &>^\ ' W^rt afivjc-i-- ^"ff*^^ THE VEN. ARCHDEACON WILLIAM SINCLAIR. D.D. n€«£i»»e>tsri^ktt^a(«^inBBH6^!:ri%'iiJiii^): Yale Center for British Art and British Studies THE CHAPELS ROYAL THE CHAPELS ROYAL BY THE VEN. ARCHDEACON WILLIAM SINCLAIR, D.D. Hon. D.D. (Glasgow), F.R.S.L., Etc. AUTHOR OF "memorials OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL" " JOIJN MCWHIRTER, R.A." "JOSEPH FARQUHARSON, A.R.A." "LEADERS OF THOUGHT IN THE ENGLISH CHURCH" ETC. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DRAWINGS BY LOUIS -WEIRTER, R.B.A. LONDON EVELEIGH NASH 1912 CONTENTS The Chapels of St. John and St. Peter in the Tower of London .... St. George's Chapel, Windsor . Henry the Seventh's Chapel, Westminster Abbey The Chapel Royal, St. James's Palace The Chapel Royal, Whitehall . The Chapel Royal, Hampton Court . The Chapel Royal, Savoy The Chapel Royal, Kensington Palace The German Chapel Royal, Marlborough House The Private Chapels at Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle Holyrood Abbey .... Dunfermline Palace and Abbey The Royal Palace and Abbey of Scone Chapel Royal, Stirling Castle . The Chapel in Linlithgow Palace The Chapel Royal, Falkland Palace . The Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle I 21 63 87 151 171 187 201 209 227231243 279287293303311 319 V LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Th;e Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle . . Frontispiece The Chapels of St. John and St. Peter in the Tower of London .... St. George's Chapel, Windsor . The Private Chapel, Windsor Castle . Henry the Seventh's Chapel, Westminster Abbey The Chapel Royal, St. James's Palace The Chapel Royal, Whitehall . The Chapel Royal, Savoy The German Chapel Royal, Marlborough House The Private Chapel, Buckingham Palace St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle . Holyrood Abbey ..... Entrance to Holyrood Abbey . The Chapel Royal, Stirling Castle . The Chapel Royal, Falkland Palace . FACING PAGE i6 28 48 80 112 168192 216230 240256272 296314 Vll INTRODUCTION HE religious side of an institution is generally the most interest ing, because religion of any kind touches the deepest and highest emotions of human nature, and calls up whatever is sincere and genuine even in commonplace minds. The associations of a parish church, where many generations have been baptized, confirmed, married, and buried, are rich in personal remi niscences of the most intimate and varied kind : sorrows and joys, struggles of conscience, hopes and fears, instructions and inspirations, sympathies and reflections. And therefore, when we come to families which have to play a large and public part on the stage of the world, the places devoted to their worship and religious celebrations cannot but be full of interest, romance, and the more serious aspects of brilliant lives. It is from this point of view that it is worth while to see what can be told about the Chapels Royal of the United Kingdom. ix Introduction Well-known names at once present themselves : the Tower of London, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Whitehall, St. James's, Kensington, and Buckingham Palace ; Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood House, Stirling Castle, Falkland Palace, Linlith gow, and Balmoral Castle ; and the Chapel in Dublin Castle. But there are many more, for in early days the Kings moved much from place to place, and had many royal manors and castles, some permanently in their own occupation, some disused, some for certain periods, at Others handed over to different members of their families, or to friends. Such were Bamburgh Castle, Westmin ster Palace, Somerset House, Richmond Palace, Woodstock Castle, Enfield Palace, Hatfield House, Dover Castle, Corfe Castle, Theobalds, Nonsuch, Baynard Castle, Eltham Palace, Greenwich Palace ; or in Scotland, the Castles of Kildrummy, Doune, Dumbarton, Craigmillar, and Lochleven, Scone, and many others. All of these had Chapels, which must have been the scenes of much that would be interesting: but it is with the more permanent homes of the royal families that the principal events are connected, and it is with them that it will be enough to deal. X THE CHAPELS OF ST. JOHN AND ST. PETER IN THE TOWER OF LONDON THE CHAPELS OF ST. JOHN AND ST. PETER IN THE TOWER OF LONDON 3JLTH0UGH the Chapel founded by Edward the Confessor at Windsor was earlier in date than the Tower of London, its history is so obscure and un certain that it is more natural to consider first the Norman foundation in London. The Tower was begun by William the Conqueror in 1078, and Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, who also built the Keep in his cathedral city, was ap pointed surveyor. It was repaired or enlarged at different dates by William Rufus; Geoffry de Magnaville, Earl of Essex; Thomas k Becket when Chancellor; William Longchamp, Bishop of Ely and Chancellor; and finally completed by 3 The Chapels Royal King Henry III. The whole area comprised by the walls of the building is rather more than twelve acres. The Royal Palace of the Tower, which has now entirely disappeared, was situated near the White Tower ; the Norman Keep, in the inner part of the group. "Erected at different periods, and consisting of a vast range of halls, galleries, courts and gardens, the old palace occupied in part the site of the modern Ordnance Office. Commencing at the Coal Har bour Gate, it extended in a south-easterly direction to the Lanthorn Tower, and from thence branched off in a magnificent pile of building, called the Queen's Gallery, to the Salt Tower. In front of this gallery, defended by the Cradle Tower and the Well Tower, was the privy garden. Behind it stretched a large quadrangular area, terminated at the western ailgle by the Wardrobe Tower, and at the Eastern angle by the Broad Arrow Tower. It was enclosed on the left by a further range of buildings, termed the Queen's Lodgings, and on the right by the inner ballium wall. The last- mentioned buildings were also connected with the White Tower, and with a small embattled structure flanked by a circular tower, denominated the Jewel House, where the regalia were then kept. In front of the Jewel House stood a large decayed hall forming part of the palace ; opposite which was a 4 The Tower of London court, planted with trees, and protected by the ballium wall."^ This palace was the residence, during portions of their reigns, of every sovereign from William Rufus to Charles II. The tragic and romantic episodes which make the history of this grim fortress so fascinating and so sad are too numerous to allow the mention of more than some of them ; but most of the prisoners must have attended one or other of the Chapels. In 1234, Griffith, Prince of Wales, tried to escape from the White Tower by a line made of hangings, sheets and table-cloths, tied together ; unfortunately for him, he was a stout man, broke the rope, arid fell from a great height ; his head and neck were found driven into his breast between his shoulders. Edward the Third first established a Mint within the Tower (since removed to Tower Hill) ; in this his Florences of gold were coined. In his reign three sovereigns were prisoners there : John, King of France ; his son, afterwards King Philip ; and David, King of Scotland. King John on one occasion in his captivity feasted Edward III. and all his Court in the Great Hall. In the fourth year of the reign of King Richard 1 1., a time of wild alarm came upon the Tower : the rebellion of Wat Tyler had surged into London, and in 1 W. Harrison Ainsworth, The Tower of London, Book ii. chap. 4. 5 The Chapels Royal spite of the garrison of six hundred valiant persons, expert in arms, and the like number of archers, the mob seized the fortress, burst into the King's chamber and that of his mother, to both of whom they offered outrages and indignities ; and ended by seizing Simon of Sudbury, Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellor, whom they supposed to be the author of the taxation which they resented, hurrying him off to Tower Hill, and barbarously hewing off" his head with eight strokes. This they fixed on a pole on London Bridge, where shortly afterwards it was replaced by that of Wat Tyler himself. The year 1458 was memorable in the Tower for the jousts held on Tower Green by the Duke of Somerset and others, before that Queen of tragedy, Margaret of Anjou. In 1471 Henry the Sixth, pious and incapable, was a prisoner in the Tower, and the belief of the day was that he was murdered. Seven years later George, Duke of Clarence, died a violent death in the Bowyer Tower, and the rumour was that he was drowned in a butt of Malmsey. Five years later, the young Edward the Fifth, and his little brother the Duke of York, died in the Bloody Tower, during the schemes of their uncle, afterwards Richard the Third, for possessing himself of the Throne ; and the tradition, never disproved, was that they were smothered. In 1483, in the course of the same 6 The Tower of London ambitious career, "by command of the Duke of Gloucester, who had sworn he would not dine till he had seen his head off. Lord Hastings was brought forth to the green before St. Peter's Chapel, and after short shrift, ' for a longer could not be suffered, the Protector made so much haste to dinner, which he might not go to until this were done, for saving of His Grace's oath,' his head was laid upon a large block of timber, and stricken off"." In 151 2 came a lamentable accident : the woodwork and decorations of the Norman Chapel of St. John in the White Tower were destroyed by fire. In the reign of the tyrant, Henry the Eighth, the prisons were constantly filled, and the scaffold was deluged with blood. Among the earlier victims were the extortionate ministers of Henry the Seventh, Sir Richard Empson and Edmund Dudley, father of John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, and grandfather of Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of Lady Jane Grey, and of his brother Robert, Earl of Leicester, the favourite of Queen Elizabeth. There followed the popular Duke of Buckingham, victim of Car dinal Wolsey; John Fisher, the saintly Bishop of Rochester ; the wise and witty Chancellor, Sir Thomas More ; Queen Anne Boleyn ; her brother, the Earl of Rochford ; Norris, Smeaton, and others implicated in her fall; the Marquis of Exeter, 7 The Chapels Royal Lord Montacute, Sir Thomas Neville; Thomas, Lord Cromwell, the favourite minister of Henry the Eighth and counsellor of the dissolution of the monasteries ; the venerable and courageous Countess of Salisbury, one of the last of the Plantagenets ; Lord Leonard Grey, Queen Katherine Howard and Lady Rochford, and a few days before the death of the despot Henry, the charming and accomplished Earl of Surrey. The reign of Edward VI. was short, and he was a minor ; but the Council, under the influence of John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, brought to the block the young King's two uncles. Admiral Thomas Seymour, Lord Seymour of Sudeley, the husband of Queen Katherine Parr, and Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, the Protector. In the brief reign of Mary fell the heads of John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, the am bitious schemer ; Lord Guildford Dudley, his son ; and the innocent little girl, Lady Jane Grey, most pathetic and unwilling of usurpers ; besides those of Sir Thomas Wyatt and others implicated in risings against Mary or Philip.^ In the reign of Elizabeth, Thomas Howard, ^ St. Peter's Chapel is connected with the strange and tragic recantation and mass of the Duke of Northumberland, the Marquis of Northampton, Sir Andrew Dudley, Sir Harry Gates, and Sir Thomas Palmer, on 21st August 1553, before their execution. Next day followed the recantation and mass of the Earl of 8 The Tower of London Duke of Norfolk, was beheaded for his support, given as a Roman Catholic, to the cause of Mary Queen of Scots : he had been a judge at the impeachment of his two nieces. Queen Anne Boleyn and Queen Katherine Seymour, and had voted for their execution. Many recusant Romanists and seminary priests, pledged to the dethronement or death of the Queen, were imprisoned on political grounds in the dungeons ; notably the famous Jesuit Fathers, Campion and Persons. Lord Stourton was executed for the murder of the Hartgills, private enemies. " Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, shot himself in his chamber, declaring that the jade Elizabeth should not have his estate."^ The last victim of Elizabeth's rule was her favourite, the Earl of Essex. In the more pacific time of King James the First, the incomparable Sir Walter Raleigh was beheaded ; Sir Thomas Overbury was poisoned. In the days of the Long Parliament, the principal advisers of King Charles the First, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, and William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, were beheaded. In 1656, in the later years of Oliver Warwick, Northumberland's eldest son, and Sir John Gates (Chronicle of Queen Jane and Two Years of Queen Mary, by a Resident in the Tower. Camden Society, 1850, p. 18). 1 W. Harrison Ainsworth, Book ii. chap. 4. The Chapels Royal Cromwell, " Miles Sunderland, condemned for high treason, poisoned himself, and his body, stripped of clothing, was dragged at the horse's tail to Tower Hill, where a hole had been digged under the scaff"old, into which it was thrust, and a stake driven through it."^ In the reign of Charles the Second the chief victims were Lord Monson and Sir Henry Mild- may, Sir Henry Vane, Algernon Percy, and William, Lord Russell. Under his brother, James the Second, the handsome, popular, foolish, and unfortunate Duke of Monmouth perished, who had some slight pretext for believing himself to be the legitimate son of Charles the Second. In George the First's time came the Highland rising of 17 15 for James, son of James the Second, when the principal sufferers were Lords Derwent- water and Kenmure. In that of George the Second, there was the more successful effort of Prince Charles Edward in 1745, which brought to the block Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat. In 1760, the year of the accession of George the Third, Lord Ferrers was imprisoned in the Tower for the murder of his steward : but the execution took place at Tyburn, near where the Marble Arch now stands. In 1762 the popular demagogue Wilkes was imprisoned for libel ; in 1780 Lord ^ Ainsworth's Tower of London. ID The Tower of London George Gordon for instigating the anti-papal riots. In 1810 Sir Francis Burdett, father of the famous philanthropist Baroness Burdett Coutts, was in carcerated for defying the House of Commons ; followed in 1820 by the Cato Street conspirators, Thistlewood, Ings, and the rest. Through all these varied scenes the Chapels of St John and St. Peter continued their quiet worship, under varied religious auspices. The little Chapel of St. John, in the White Tower, the work of the genius of Bishop Gundulph, is one of the most perfect specimens of Norman ecclesiastical architecture in this country, and from its position in the Keep, as well as from the massiveness of its style, preserves, as few other churches have, its original freshness and beauty. It consists of a nave with broad aisles, from which it is separated by twelve circular pillars of the simplest and most solid construction, which support a stone gallery, or triforium, of equal width with the aisles, fronted by an arcade corresponding with the loftier one beneath. The floor was formerly covered with a hard polished cement, resembling granite. The roof is coved, and beautifully pro portioned ; the Chapel is completed by a semi circular apse towards the east. The following is the order for its decoration in the reign of Henry the Third, recorded by Stow : II The Chapels Royal " And that ye cause the whole chapel of St. John the Evangelist to be whited. And that ye cause three glass windows in the same chapel to be made ; to wit, one on the north side, with a certain little Mary holding her Child; the other on the south part, with the image of the Trinity ; and the third, of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist in the south part. And that ye cause the cross and the beam beyond the altar of the said chapel to be painted well, and with good colours. And that ye cause to be made and painted two fair images where more conveniently and decently they may be done in the said chapel ; one of St. Edward, holding a ring, and reaching it out to St. John the Evangelist." ^ The Chapel of St. Peter-ad-vincula (St. Peter- in-prison) was also a small structure, not far from the White Tower. It was, and its successor is still, the parish church of the whole precincts of the fortress, but a special portion was reserved for the Sovereign and the Court. The second building, erected by Edward I., occupied the site of an earlier Chapel, having the same dedication ; this was much more spacious, and possessed two chancels, one of which contained the stalls of the King and Queen. Stow records the following order for its repair issued by Henry the Third : "The King to the keepers of the Tower work ^ Quoted by W. H. Ainsworth, Book i. chap. 5. 12 The Tower of London sendeth greeting: We command you to brush or plaster with lime well and decently the chancel of St. Mary in the Church of St. Peter within the bailiwick of our Tower of London, and the chancel of St. Peter in the same church ; and from the entrance of the chancel of St. Peter to the space of four feet beyond the stalls made for our own and our Queen's use in the same church ; and the same stalls to be painted. And the little Mary with her shrine and images of St. Peter, St. Nicholas and Katherine, and the beam beyond the altar of St. Peter, and the little cross with its images, to be coloured anew, and to be refreshed with good colours. And that ye cause to be made a certain image of St. Christopher holding and carrying Jesus where it may best and most con veniently be done, and painted in the foresaid church. And that ye cause two fair tables to be made and painted of the best colours concerning the stories of the blessed Nicholas and Katherine, before the altars of the said saints in the same church. And that ye cause to be made two fair cherubims with a cheerful and joyful countenance standing on the right and the left of the great cross in the said church. And moreover one marble font with marble pillars well and hand somely wrought." Edward the First's Chapel, which succeeded the 13 The Chapels Royal older building, was burnt in 151 2, when it was replaced by the present church, which is a small stone structure, consisting of a nave with a north aisle, separated by an arcade of low Tudor arches resting on clustered columns. In addition to the executions already mentioned, Ainsworth enu merates the principal burials which took place within the walls of St. Peter's.^ The body of John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, beheaded in 1535 for denying the Pope's supremacy, was interred here for a time. Holinshed sums him up tersely : " He was a prelate of great learning, and very good life. The Pope had elected him a cardinal, and sent his hat as far as Calais. But his head was off before his hat was on, so that they met not." Next to Fisher lay the body of his friend Sir Thomas More, Henry VIII.'s wise, witty, and eloquent Chancellor. Hall the Chro'nicler hesitates whether he should describe him as "a foolish wise man, or a wise foolish man " ; — he jested even on the scaffold. At the intercession of his daughter, Margaret Roper, his body was afterwards removed to Chelsea. " Here also was interred the last (except her son) of the right line of the Plan tagenets, Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, the mother of Cardinal Pole. The venerable lady refused to lay her head upon the block, saying ^ Compare the list of executions, pp. 7-10. 14 The Tower of London (as Lord Herbert of Cherbury reports) — ' So should traitors die, and I am none.' Neither did it serve that the executioner told her it was the fashion : — so turning her grey head every way, she bid him, if he would have it, to get it as he could : so he was constrained to fetch it off" slovenly." The bodies of Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Katherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, and Lord Guildford Dudley lay near the High Altar, the first three side by side. Here was buried the decapitated body of Thomas, Lord Cromwell, "the son of a blacksmith, who having served as a common soldier under Bourbon at the sack of Rome, en tered Wolsey's service, and rose to be Grand Chamberlain of the realm " (and Henry the Eighth's chief minister). In Elizabeth's reign an eminent victim whose body received the sombre shelter of the Chapel was Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, the head of the papal interest in England, who aspired to the hand of Mary Queen of Scots, and was the chief conspirator on her behalf. Melancholy and romantic memories cling to the grave of Robert Devereux, the rash and ill-fated Earl of Essex. At a later date, under the Communion-table, were the remains of the handsome young Duke of Monmouth, the idol of his father, Charles the Second, executed for heading the rising of the Protestants against his uncle, James the Second. 15 The Chapels Royal Beneath the little gallery at the west end of the Chapel were buried William, Marquis of Tulli- bardine (son of John, first Duke of Atholl), a Jacobite leader in 17 15 and 1745,— he died of ill-health, 9th July 1746; William Boyd, fourth Earl of Kilmarnock ; Arthur, Lord Balmerino (exe cuted in 1746); and Simon, Lord Lovat (executed 1747). The whole list of burials is as follows : — 1534. Gerald Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare (died a prisoner). 1535. Fisher, Bishop of Rochester. 1535. Sir Thomas More. 1536. George Boleyn, Earl of Rochford. ,, Queen Anne Boleyn. 1540. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 1 54 1. Margaret de la Pole, of Clarence, Countess of Salisbury. 1542. Queen Katherine Howard. 1549. Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudeley. 1 53 1. Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, the Protector. 1552. Sir Ralph Vane (he was hanged). 1553. John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland. 1554. Lord Guildford Dudley. ,, Lady Jane Dudley (Grey). „ Henry, Duke of Suffolk, her father. 1572. Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, 16 The Tower of London 1592. Sir John Perrott, natural son of Henry VIII., Lord Deputy of Ireland, dis- , graced in 1 588. Died in the Tower. 1595. Philip, Earl of Arundel; the body was removed in 1624. 1 60 1. Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex. 161 3. Sir Thomas Overbury : poisoned. 1 61 4. Thomas, fifteenth Lord Grey of Wilton, involved in the Rye House Plot against James the First; reprieved on the scaffold ; died in the Tower. 1632. Sir John Eliot, the patriot; imprisoned for resisting Charles the First's at tempt to dissolve Parliament ; died in the Tower. 1680. William Howard, first Viscount Stafford ; imprisoned and beheaded on the accusation of the infamous Titus Oates. His attainder was re versed in 1824. 1683. Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex, Viceroy of Ireland, accused, with Lord Russell, of the Fanatic Plot ; committed suicide. 1685. James, Duke of Monmouth. 1689. George, Lord Jeffreys, the notorious judge. Died in the Tower of de lirium tremens. His body was re moved in 1692. B 17 The Chapels Royal 1703. John Rotier, or Roettiers, medallist; removed from office in 1697 owing to theft by labourers of dies for coins. 1 7 10. Edward, Lord Griffin. 1746. William, Marquis of Tullibardine. „ William, Earl of Kilmarnock. ,, Arthur, Lord Balmerino. 1747. Simon, Lord Lovat. The death of Lord Hastings, who was be headed by order of Richard, Duke of Gloucester in 1483, is not particularly connected with St. Peter's ; nor, in the same year, that of Edward V., and his brother Richard, Duke of York. Henry the Sixth was imprisoned in the Tower for five years, between 1465-70: restored by Warwick in 1470, he was recommitted to the Tower after the battle of Barnet in 1471, and murdered on the night of the return of Edward the Fourth, Richard of Gloucester being held responsible. He was worshipped as a martyr by the north-countrymen, and his canonization was formally proposed by Henry the Seventh. While he no doubt made frequent use of St. Peter's Chapel during his long imprisonment, a deep window recess is shown in the Wakefield Tower which was fitted up as a small Chapel with aumbry, piscina, and sedilia, 18 The Tower of London and is said by tradition to have been used by Henry for his devotions. Since 1820, no human being has entered the Tower as a captive. The old custom of the Proces sional Ride from the Tower to Westminster Abbey at the coronation of a new sovereign was abandoned by James the Second on account of the enormous expense. The Tower has become a barrack, an armoury, a museum, and the place where the Crown Jewels can be exhibited in perfect safety. Services are rare in the Norman Chapel of St. John : the Chapel of St. Peter is used by the regiment quartered in the Tower, and by the other residents. The Tower is considered the central Headquarters of the Garrison of London, and St. Peter's is the official church of the Chaplain- General. 19 II ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL, WINDSOR ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL, WINDSOR [NE of the glories of the later English Gothic architecture is the royal chapel of the noblest and most historic palace in the world, the shrine of the Order of the Garter, the collegiate church of the Dean and Canons of St. George's, Windsor. We are told by Tanner,^ in his Notitia Monastica of Berkshire,^ that in the Castle was an old Free Chapel, dedicated to the memory of King Edward the Confessor, in which Henry the First (son of William the Conqueror) placed eight secular priests, who seem never to have 1 The historical sketch is abbreviated from Dugdale's Monasticon ; with incidents from Strickland's Queens of England. 2 P. 24. 23 The Chapels Royal been incorporated nor endowed with lands, but to have been maintained by pensions yearly paid out of the King's Exchequer. If the dedication is owing to Henry the First, the reason may have been because his wife, Edith (or Matilda), was great-niece of the Confessor. Among the Norman Kings and their successors there was a marked desire to connect themselves with the royal saint. A little later on there was in Windsor Park, at the beginning of the reign of King Edward the Second, a Royal Chapel for thirteen chaplains and four clerks, who had yearly salaries out of the Manors of Langley Marsh and Sippenham, both in Buckinghamshire. Lysons, in his Magna Britannia,'^ says that the old chapel in the Castle seems to have been either, rebuilt or considerably enlarged and decorated by King Henry the Third, famed for his Churchmanship and love of architecture. In the year 1243 hejssued a commission to Walter Gray, Archbishop of York, to expedite the works at the King's Chapel at Windsor, directing that the workmen should proceed as well in winter as in summer till the whole was completed ; that a lofty wooden roof, like the roof of the new work at Lichfield, should be made to appear ^ Berks, p. 423. 24 St George's Chapel, Windsor like stonework, with good ceiling and painting ; that the Chapel should be covered with lead, and four gilded images be put up in it, where the King had before directed that such images should be placed ; that a stone turret should be made in front of the Chapel, of sufficient size to hold three or four bells.^ Some remains of Henry the Third's building, as may be presumed by the style of the arches and architectural decorations, may be seen on the north side of the Dean's Cloisters, and at the east end of the Chapel behind the altar. King Edward the Third, in the fourth year of his reign, removed the chaplains and clerks out of the Park into the Castle, and shortly after added four more chaplains and two clerks. After his victories, being desirous of raising the place of his birth to much greater splendour, he refounded this ancient free Chapel Royal. •; In 1349 he augmented the number of Canons to twenty-three, besides a Warden ; and appointed twenty-four poor Knights, for all of whom he built habitations, and granted land for their support. In 1 35 1 the College was settled on a new establishment by the Bishop of Winchester, acting as delegate for the Pope, Clement the Sixth, and was made to consist of Warden, twelve Secular 1 Claus. Ret. 27 Henry HI. p. i, m. 5. 25 The Chapels Royal Canons, thirteen Priests or Vicars, four Clerks, six Choristers, twenty-six poor or alms Knights, besides other officers. The title of Warden was changed to that of Dean in the reign of Henry the Fourth ; and the change was recognized by a charter of Henry the Sixth. In the reign of Edward the Fourth the College was incorporated. In 1830 it consisted of Dean, twelve Canons, seven Minor Canons, twelve Lay Clerks, one of whom was usually Organist, and ten Choristers. The Chapel was dedicated to the honour of the Virgin Mary, St. George, and St. Edward, King and Confessor, but was popularly known as St. George's. Its revenues were _;^i6o2. It was particularly excepted from the Act for Sup pressing Colleges (i Ed. VI. 14). From the foundation of the Order of the Garter in 1349 the Chapel of St. George at Windsor has been the place for the celebration of its solemnities. It has stalls for the Knights Companions, very richly carved in wood, exhibiting the names and arms of the several illustrious and noble persons by whom they have been filled. St. George's has also been the place of the burial of several of the Kings and Queens. The present magnificent fabric, which exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens in this or any other kingdom of that richly ornamented 26 St. George's Chapel, Windsor species of architecture which prevailed towards the close of the fifteenth and the beginning of the sixteenth centuries, was begun by King Edward the Fourth,^ who, having found it necessary to take down the old Chapel on account of its decayed state, resolved to build another on the same site, on a larger scale, and committed the superintend ence of the building to Richard Beauchamp, Bishop of Salisbury. The work was not completed till the reign of Henry the Eighth ; the beautiful roof of the choir was put up in the year 1538. Sir Reginald Bray, Prime Minister to Henry the Seventh and one of the Knights Companions of the Garter, who died in 1502, succeeded Bishop Beauchamp in the superintendence of this great work, and was a liberal contributor to the building of the Choir and other parts of the fabric. He was steward to the second husband of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, Henry's mother, and pro moted the marriage between Henry and Princess Elizabeth. He was also High Steward of the University of Oxford. The Organ Gallery and Screen at west end of Choir have been erected in later times ; the Screen was of Coade's artificial stone. King George the Third spent large sums of money in repairing and altering the Chapel according to the incongruous taste of his age. ^ Compare p. 39, in the architectural account of the Chapel. 27 The Chapels Royal The lodgings of the Dean and Canons are situated in the lower ward of Windsor Castle, behind St. George's. The old part of the Deanery was built in 1500 by Dean Urswick. The apart ments of the Minor Canons, Clerks, and other officers are situated at the west end of St. George's Chapel ; the buildings are in a semi-circular form, supposed to be in allusion to the fetlock, a device of the founder. King Edward the Fourth. One of the early scenes connected with the Chapel is the public wedding of Henry I. with his second wife, the Fair Maid of Brabant, Adelicia, eldest daughter of Godfrey of Louvaine, Duke of Brabant and Lower Louvaine, great-grandson of Charles, brother to Lothaire of France, and repre sentative of Charlemagne.^ The Princess was about eighteen ; she is sometimes called Alix la Belle, Adelais, Alise, or Adeliza. The wedding took place on the 24th January 1121, and was delayed on account of a curious dispute between Ralph, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Roger le Poer, Bishop of Salisbury, known as a preacher of short sermons, as to which had the right of performing the ceremony. The Bishop claimed because Windsor was in his Diocese; the Arch bishop on the ground of his supreme office. It became necessary to summon an ecclesiastical ^ Strickland's Queens of England. 28 ^^.'&cpia^ laA by Archbishop Moore of Canterbury. When the Primate asked if there were any im pediment, the bridegroom shook with emotion. He held so fast by Queen Charlotte's hand that she could not remove it. Lord Malmesbury records that the Duke of Gloucester (brother of George the Third) excused the Prince's conduct by saying that he was quite drunk. But it is unpleasant to dwell on the failings of this un fortunate pair, which unhappily became afterwards notorious. Caroline died in 1821. The death of her only child. Princess Charlotte of Wales, married to Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfield, which occurred in childbed in 181 7, plunged the nation into profound and genuine sorrow. 118 St. James's Palace The eldest daughter of George the Third, Charlotte Augusta Matilda, Princess Royal, was married to Frederick William, Hereditary Prince of Wurtemberg - Stuttgart (afterwards King), a widower, at the Chapel Royal, St. James's, on Thursday, i8th May 1797, between one and three in the afternoon. The bride was in her thirty-first year, the bridegroom older. King George and Queen Charlotte were devotedly attached to their eldest daughter, and were in tears at the wedding ; they had even tried to prevent it, from fear that the Prince might follow his father's example, and become a Roman Catholic. The bride was supported by her brother the Duke of Clarence, afterwards William the Fourth. The bridegroom was good-natured and kind-hearted, and favourably impressed the crowds of people who saw him. After receiving the solemn paternal benediction of King George, the Prince and Princess drove off" from the garden gate to Windsor. They remained in England nearly three weeks, and made their departure from St. James's on Friday, 2nd June. They had said good-bye to the Royal Family on the previous evening, in a scene of genuine and uncontrollable sorrow. Wtirtemberg was made a Kingdom in 1805 by Napoleon, in the Treaty of Pressburg. The Queen of Wurtemberg died in 1828 without issue. 119 The Chapels Royal All the other sons and daughters of George the Third were married elsewhere. The next royal wedding at St. James's did not take place till forty-three years afterwards ; and that was the happiest and most auspicious of all, the union of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. It was on I oth February 1840; Victoria had been on the throne nearly three years, and was twenty, Albert twenty-one. The day began wet and foggy, but soon after the return from the Chapel the sun shone out with unusual brilliance. The Prince was supported by his father and elder brother. Of the old Royal Family were present the Duchess of Kent ; Adelaide, the Queen Dowager ; the Queen's two uncles, the Dukes of Sussex and Cambridge ; and her aunts, the Princess Augusta and the Duchess of Cambridge : there were also her cousins. Prince George, Princess Augusta and Princess Mary of Cambridge, and Princess Sophia of Gloucester. Of the twelve bridesmaids, Lady Adelaide Paget married the Hon. F. W. Cadogan, M.P. ; Lady Caroline Lennox, the Earl of Bess- borough; Lady Sarah Villiers, Prince Nicholas Esterhazy ; Lady Elizabeth Howard, Hon. and Rev. Francis Grey ; Lady Frances Cowper, Lord Jocelyn ; Lady Ida Hay, Lord Gainsborough ; Lady Elizabeth West, the Duke of Bedford; Lady Wilhelmina Stanhope, first. Lord Dalmeny (by whom she was 120 St. James's Palace mother of Lord Rosebery), second, Duke of Cleve land ; Lady Mary Grimston, Lord Radnor ; Lady Jane Bouverie, William Ellice ; Lady Eleanora Paget, Sir Sandford Graham ; and Lady Mary Howard, Lord Foley. Of all who were present in the Chapel, probably the only survivor is a boy who was page to Queen Adelaide, Sir J. G. Tolle- mache Sinclair, now in his 87th year. The Bride was given away by the Duke of Sussex. Prince Albert wore the uniform of a British Field- Marshal, with the Collar of the Garter ; the Queen was dressed in white satin made in Spitalfields, Honiton lace, an orange wreath, a necklace and earrings of diamonds, the Garter as an armlet, and the Star of the Order in diamonds. " The bridesmaids," wrote Lady Lyttelton, " formed the most striking part of the scene in their pure and simple white dresses ; they looked like village girls among all the gorgeous colours and jewels that surrounded them. The Queen's look and manner were very pleasing, her eyes much swollen with tears, but great happiness in her countenance, and her look of (f;onfidence and comfort at the Prince, when they walked away as man and wife, was very pretty to see." The Queen wrote next day to her Uncle Leopold, King of the Belgians, from Windsor : " I write to you from here, the happiest, happiest being that ever existed. Really I do not 121 The Chapels Royal think it possible for any one in the world to be happier, or as happy as I am. He is an angel, and his kindness and affection for me are really touching. To look in those dear eyes, and that dear sunny face, is enough to make me adore him. What I can do to make him happy will be my greatest delight. Independent of my great personal happiness, the reception we both met with yesterday was the most gratifying and en thusiastic I ever experienced ; there was no end of the crowds in London and all along the road." The deep affection of the Queen for the Prince never varied through the twenty-one delightful years of their married life, but only increased in strength and maturity. The Prince indeed deserved this enthusiastic devotion, for, as well as one of the most remarkable, he was one of the most genuine and consistent men of his day. The following brief estimate of him is given by the editors of Queen Victoria's letters : "A close study of the Queen's correspondence reveals the character of the Prince in a way which nothing else could effect. Traces of his untiring labour, his con scientious vigilance, his singular devotedness, appear on every page. There are innumerable memorials in his own hand ; the papers are throughout arranged and annotated by him ; nothing seems to have escaped him, nothing to 122 St. James's Palace have dismayed him. As an instance of the minute laboriousness which characterized the Royal house hold, it may be mentioned that there are copies of many important letters, forwarded to the Prince for his perusal, the originals of which had to be returned, written not only by the Prince himself, but by the Queen under his direction. But besides keeping a vigilant eye upon politics, the Prince took the lead in all social and educational move ments of the time, as well as devoting a close and continuous attention to the affairs of Europe in general, and Germany in particular. It is obvious from the papers that the Prince can hardly ever have taken a holiday ; many hours of every day must have been devoted by him to work ; yet he was at the same time a tender husband and father, always ready with advice and sympathy, and devoted to quiet domestic life." By his own personality and example, and through the Queen, the Prince Consort exercised so deep and whole some an influence on British life and society, that the I oth February 1840 was indeed an auspicious day for the whole nation. The marriage of the Princess Royal was the next. It was on 25th January 1858, at 12.30 p.m. The bridegroom was at that time Prince Frederick William of Prussia, son of William, Prince of Prussia, afterwards the Emperor William I. of 123 The Chapels Royal Germany. Prince Frederick William became Emperor only for a few months. Writing three years before to the King of the Belgians, Queen Victoria thus described the Princess's temperament : " I must say that she has a quick discernment of character, and I have never seen her take any predilection for a person which was not motived by personal amiability, goodness, or distinction of some kind or other. She has, moreover, great tact and esprit de conduite. It is quite extra ordinary how popular she is in Society — and again, now, all these foreigners (King Victor Emmanuel and his suite) are so struck with her Sense and conversation for her age." The music at the ceremony contained marches from Handel's " Occa sional Oratorio," "Joseph," and "Judas Maccabaeus," as well as the "Hallelujah Chorus." The Queen's motherly notes on the service indicate the natural feeling under the State ceremonial: "The drums and trumpets played marches, and the organs played others, as the Processions approached and entered. There was a pause between each, but not a very long one, and the effect was thrilling and striking as you heard the music gradually coming nearer and nearer. Fritz looked pale and much agitated, but behaved with the greatest self-possession, bowing to us, and then kneeling down in a most devotional manner. Then came 124 St. James's Palace the bride's Procession, and our darling Flower looked very touching and lovely, with such an innocent, confiding and serious expression, her veil hanging back over her shoulders, walking between her beloved Father and dearest Uncle Leopold, who had been at her Christening and Confirmation, and was himself the widower of Princess Charlotte, heiress to the throne of this country, Albert's and my Uncle, Mama's Brother, and one of the wisest Kings in Europe ! My last fear of being overcome vanished on seeing Vicky's quiet, calm, and composed manner. It was beautiful to see her kneeling with Fritz, their hands joined. . . . Dearest Albert took her by the hand to give her away, which reminded me vividly of having in the same way, proudly, tenderly, confidently, most lovingly knelt by him, on this very same spot, and having our hands joined there. ... I felt so moved, so overjoyed and relieved, that I could have em braced everybody." Thirty-five years elapsed, and the dim old Chapel Royal brightened up to welcome a marriage not less auspicious than the two last : that of George, Duke of York, to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck, now King George the Fifth and Queen Mary. This was on 6th July 1893. The bride's mother was the popular and beloved Princess 125 The Chapels Royal Mary of Cambridge, her father Francis, Duke of Teck, only son of Duke Alexander of Wurtem berg. The bridegroom and his supporters (his father, the Prince of Wales, and his uncle, Alfred, Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha and Duke of Edinburgh) wore naval uniform ; the bride's supporters were her father and her eldest brother. Prince Adolphus. Her white satin dress, like Queen Victoria's on a similar occasion, was made in Spitalfields. The three prelates who officiated were successive Archbishops of Canterbury ; Benson (then Primate), Temple of London, and Davidson of Rochester. The bridesmaids, sisters or cousins of the bridegroom, were Princess Victoria of Wales, Maud of Wales (Queen of Norway), Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein, Victoria of Edinburgh (Grand Duchess of Hesse), Alex andra of Edinburgh (Princess Ernest Hohenlohe- Langanburg), Princess Beatrice of Edinburgh (Crown Princess of Roumania), Princess Margaret of Connaught (Crown Princess of Sweden), Princess Patricia of Connaught, Princess Victoria of Batten- berg (Queen of Spain), and Princess Alexandra of Battenberg. Two pieces of splendid old tapestry, once in the possession of Henry VIII., part of a set of ten made for Cardinal Wolsey at Brussels, by Bernard van Orley, a pupil of Raffaelle, were hung in the Chapel by permission of the Queen, with 126 St. James's Palace leave to continue there in that position.' Eighteen years have gone by, and the nation and empire have every year additional reason for gratitude for all that this marriage has secured. Funeral Scenes at St. fames's. Queen Mary Tudor, who, as was mentioned before, was one of the earliest sovereigns to live much at St. James's, put off the life that had been so unhappy to her on 17th November 1558, in the sixth year of her reign, and was buried nearly a month afterwards, 13th December, at West minster Abbey. A brief outline of the ceremonies that took place will serve as an illustration of the customs of those days. After death, the physicians and surgeons took out the bowels and heart, which were both buried in the Chapel, the latter in a coffer of blue velvet bound with silver. Then the Clerk of the Spicery and the Officers of the Chaundry cered the body with a linen cloth, wax, and costly spices. Next, the Sergeant Plumber enclosed the body in lead ; the cover ing was purple velvet, seamed with lace, and fastened with gilt nails. The coffin was now brought into the Privy Chamber, which had been hung with black cloth and scutcheons of arms : at one end was a Cloth of Estate, or Canopy, ^ Sheppard's St. Jameses Palace, vol. ii. p. 1 30. 127 The Chapels Royal of purple velvet, with chair and cushions to match. The coffin stood on a table supported by tressels, in front of the Canopy ; this was covered by a pall of rich cloth of tissue, and on it were fastened six scutcheons of sarsenet, in fine gold, of her arms within the Garter. Lights burned day and night round this splendid catafalque ; day and night attendant gentlewomen prayed and watched, with dirge and mass, till Saturday, the loth December. On that day the Archbishop 'of York, the Marquis of Winchester, and others had to provide for the conveyance of the coffin to the Chapel, with the advice and direction of Garter King. The Chapel, like the Privy Chamber, had meantime been hung with black cloth and gar nished with scutcheons. The Altar was trimmed with purple velvet ; purple velvet also was the canopy that hung over the Dean's stall. In the middle of the Chapel was arranged a four-square Hearse of forty-six great tapers, each of twenty pounds weight ; crowns and roses adorned what was probably the Canopy of the Hearse; below the tapers was a valance of sarsenet, fringed with gold, and. the Queen's Word (either her motto or her name) repeated in letters of gold. Beneath the Hearse was a Majesty, or special royal taber nacle, of taffetta with a gilded Dome, and the 128 St. James's Palace four evangelists supporting the four corners. The six posts of the Hearse were covered with black velvet, and on every post was a scutcheon of sarsenet in fine gold. Each end of the Hearse was protected with a rail, hung within with black cloth, and the ground between covered with the same. On each side of the Hearse were stools hung with black instead of the rail. At the head of the Hearse was erected an altar, on the left of the Choir, covered with purple velvet, and richly garnished with the ornaments of the Church. Warning had been given to all persons of dignity to dress in black, and attend on the loth of December at the Office of Dirge for the con veyance of the body from the Privy Chamber to the Chapel ; the Great Chamber, Stairs, and Court to the Chapel door having all been hung with black and garnished with scutcheons. The Lords and Ladies then assembled at about 3 p.m. in the Chamber of Presence and the Great Chamber ; the officers of the Household stood with torches, with divers of the Guard. The Bishop of Wor cester, and other bishops, with the clergy and choir of the Queen's Chapel, proceeded up from the Chapel to convey the Corpse ; the members of the Chapel stayed in the Great Chamber, the Bishops passing into the room where the coffin lay, censing it, and saying divers prayers. The I 129 The Chapels Royal coffin was then taken up by eight gentlemen: in front went the Cross, and on either side a white branch carried by boys in surplices; then the clergy and singers of the Chapel, then the gentle men, squires, and such of the Royal Chaplains as had no dignity: on each side the officers with torches, and the Guard. There followed Knights, Councillors, Barons, Bishops (not in robes). Overseers, Earls, the Executors, the Kings- of-Arms ; then the Corpse, covered with a Pall of Cloth of Tissue of Gold, with the Crown of Cloth of Tissue : on one side the Marquis of Winchester and the Earl of Westmoreland, on the other the Earl of Shrewsbury and the Earl of Derby, touching the coffin with their hands. Over it was borne a Canopy of purple velvet, with six blue knobs, borne by six gentlemen. Behind the Coffin came the Chief Mourner, the dead Queen's first cousin, Margaret, Countess of Lennox (daughter of her aunt, Margaret Tudor, Queen of Scotland, and wife of Matthew Stuart, Earl of Lennox, to whom she bore Lord Darnley), assisted by the Earl of Huntingdon and Viscount Montague, her train born by Lady Catherine Has tings, assisted by the Vice-Chamberlain ; after her, the other fourteen mourners, two by two ; lastly, other ladies and gentlemen, and the Guard. When the coffin had been placed under the Hearse, the 130 St. James's Palace fourteen mourners took their places at the stools on either side, with the Countess of Lennox at the head. Order for service to begin was given by Norroy, King -of -Arms; it contained the Dirge, three lessons read by three bishops, the Magnificat and Benedictus, during which the corpse was censed by two bishops ; only the Bishops of Worcester and Exeter used croziers. Service over, a great supper was held ; after a supper a solemn watch ; at lo p.m. prayers began, and lasted till the morning, when the watchers were relieved and had their breakfast according to their degrees. Torches were held all night by the Guard, and other servants. This was repeated daily. On Sunday morning, when the night watchers had been relieved by other ladies, the Mass of the Virgin Mary was sung by the Bishop of Chester, during which the Countess of Lennox made a solemn offering, followed by the rest ; the same during the Mass of the Holy Ghost, sung by the Bishop of Exeter. At 8 a.m. a specially solemn service was held, with a Requiem Mass, during which Margaret of Lennox offered twice, first for the deceased, and then for herself. Service ended, they had a great dinner in the Presence Chamber, and reposed themselves till three o'clock, when a great Dirge was sung, followed by a great supper in the Presence Chamber. The services on 131 The Chapels Royal Monday and Tuesday were like Sunday ; after dinner on Tuesday the Heralds arranged all present in order, and the corpse was brought forth and placed in the Funeral Car ; the lifelike representa tion of the dead Queen being "set on high" on the coffin. The Car was drawn by five horses, with a Page of Honour on each, banner in hand. Margaret of Lennox rode on a horse draped in black velvet ; she was supported by an Earl and a Viscount. Four Countesses followed on horse back ; then a chariot with four ladies ; then two more chariots, each with four ladies, preceded each by four ladies on horseback. Helmet, sword, target and coat-of-arms were carried in front of the body ; a Gentleman Usher sat at the head and foot of the coffin ; a riderless horse was led by the Master of the Horse near the Chief Mourner. The corpse rested one night under the Hearse in the Abbey ; next morning the whole company proceeded to the interment from the Abbot's house.' More than half a century afterwards, when Elizabeth's glorious reign of forty-five years had come to a close, and James had been nine years on the throne, his eldest son, Henry, Prince of Wales, a youth of extraordinary promise, died at St. James's, 6th November 1612, in his nineteenth year. This palace, as well as Ham House, Richmond, ^ Abbreviated from Leake, Ceremonials, iii.; quoted by the Sub-dean, 132 St. James's Palace had been assigned to him for his special residence. In the midst of a foolish extravagant Court and profligate favourites, he showed a high example of virtue and discretion, as well as universal good sense. Devoted' both to father and mother, he showed much judgment in his correspondence, by avoiding mischief-making between two hasty and unwise persons. His letters to his sister. Princess Elizabeth (afterwards Princess Palatine and Queen of Bohemia), and to his little brother. Prince Charles, are touching evidences of the affection that subsisted between them. When it came to the question of the marriage of his sister Elizabeth, and his mother, Anne of Denmark, wished to unite her to the young King of Spain, he quietly and firmly opposed the match, and promoted the marriage with Frederick the Fifth, Elector Palatine. He had received an education, says Miss Strick land, which was a model for all princes, not by lucky accident, but with earnest intent, founded on proper principles ; and the result was most excellent. He had been matriculated at Magdalen College, Oxford, in 1605; and was on friendly terms with Sir Walter Raleigh. In person he was very handsome, six feet high before his seven teenth year, with an open face, brown eyes, fair complexion and hair, and Grecian profile. He excelled at all athletic sports, tilting at the ring, 133 The Chapels Royal and martial exercises, and had probably exhausted himself by such constant exertions. After a con siderable period of delicate health he died at St. James's of typhoid fever. The disease was ill- understood, and groundless surmises of poison were whispered about. The public grief was vehement and loudly expressed ; for days before his death the neighbourhood of the palace was filled with anxious crowds. Vivid and minute accounts of his last days are quoted by the Sub- dean from a manuscript of John More, formerly Bishop of Ely : the courage and patience of the Prince ; the helplessness of the physicians ; the visits of the poor distracted King, who was half- dead with grief ; the absence of the Queen, who was terrified of infection ; the bleedings ; the administra tion of multiplied and ever stronger cordials to a body already parched with high fever ; the appli cation of pigeons to the head to draw away the blood from the brain ; the cleaving of a cock by its back and binding it to the soles of the feet ; the molestation of the sufferer by crowds of friends who came to show their affection ; their expulsion by King James before he himself retired to Theobald's to await the no longer doubtful event; the visit of the new Archbishop of Canterbury (George Abbott), and the Prince's statement that throughout his illness none had prayed with him, 134 St. James's Palace though he had not failed to pray quietly by himself; the second visit of the Archbishop, and his earnest and paternal exhortations ; the admin istration of Sir Walter Raleigh's cordial, sent by him from the Tower ; the administration of an astringent paste made from the leaves of the water germander or blue water-speedwell, and again of diaphoratic and quintessential spirits ; the exceeding powerful passionate prayer of the Arch bishop as the end approached, and the sign given by the Prince that he understood. Prince Henry died on the 6th of November, and the coffin was not moved from the bed-chamber to the Privy Chamber till the 3rd December. Watched day and night, it was removed to the Presence Chamber on Saturday the 4th, when the Crown and Cap of State were placed on the end of the coffin. The same day it was moved to the Chapel, the Gentle men of the Choir singing "mournful ditties" before it ; the service was read by the Bishop of Lichfield (Richard Neile), and anthems were sung. From the day of the death till the funeral, morning and evening prayers were said either in his own Presence Chamber, or the Privy Chamber, by his Chaplain, Gentlemen, and Chief Officers. The services of Saturday were repeated on Sunday. On Sunday, the night before the funeral, the usual waxen image, or representation of the dead Prince 135 The Chapels Royal was brought and bound on the top of the coffin, apparelled in everything as at the time of his creation as Prince of Wales two years before (1610). In the midst of the Choir of the Chapel was a canopy, as at the funeral of Queen Mary Tudor. The funeral was on Monday, and the coffin was borne from St. James's in an open car to West minster Abbey, attended by two thousand mourners. The next death, that of Princess Anne, the seventh child and third daughter of Charles I., in 1636, is the occasion of a beautiful little story in Fuller's Worthies. She was in her fourth year, and towards her end said to one of her nurses, " I am not able to say my long prayer (Our Father), but I will say my short one, ' Lighten mine eyes, O Lord, lest I sleep the sleep of death.' " Immediately after, she died. Soon after the Restoration, the third surviving son of Charles I., Henry, Duke of Gloucester, born at Oatlands, the 6th of July 1640, died at St. James's, the 13th of September 1660, in his twenty-first year, of smallpox. Possibly he might have recovered if he had not been heavily bled. Like his uncle, Henry, Prince of Wales, he was a young man of distinguished promise. He was highly praised by Clarendon. It was he who, at the farewell interview between Charles I. and his children, said he would rather be torn in pieces 136 St. James's Palace than be made a parliamentary king instead of his elder brothers. After the death of his sister Elizabeth at Carisbrook Castle in 1650, he was left a prisoner with his faithful tutor, Mr. Lovel, for more than two years, apparently forgotten ; he then persuaded that good friend to ask the House of Commons in his name what steps he should take to recover his liberty. Cromwell allowed him to go beyond the seas, and the Commons gave Mr. Lovel ;^5oo for the purpose. Henry joined his sister, the Princess Royal (the young widowed Princess of Orange), at the Hague, but passed on to Paris, as his mother had not seen him since his second year. Here she pressed him to join the Holy Roman Church, and disowned him when he refused. He joined his brother Charles at Cologne, and distinguished himself as a volunteer with the Spanish in Flanders in 1657-58. His short and honourable life ended at the very dawn of the brightest prospects, his body was transferred from St. James's to Westminster, and buried in the same vault as his great-grand mother, Mary Queen of Scots. Eight of the numerous children of James, Duke of York (afterwards James II.), died at St. James's: by Anne Hyde, James, Duke of Cambridge (1663), and Charles, Duke of Kendal (1667), Henrietta (1669), and Katherine (1671); 137 The Chapels Royal by Mary of Modena, Charles, Duke of Cambridge (1677), Katherine Laura (1675), Isabella (1680), and Charlotte Marga (1682). As Mary of Modena had borne five children before James Francis Edward, who afterwards was known as the Chevalier St. George, or the Old Pretender, his birth in 1688 need hardly have excited so much suspicion. Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, died at St. James's in 1671, at the early age of thirty-three, after long illness. Miss Strickland relates how as soon as she heard of the fatal turn of the illness. Queen Catherine of Braganza (wife of Charles II.) came to visit her, and stayed to the end. Bland- ford, Bishop of Oxford (he became Bishop of Worcester the same year), also arrived, and saw the Duke of York in the drawing-room. Anne had charged her husband to inform Blandford, or any other bishop who might come to speak to her, "that she was reconciled to the Church of Rome, and had already received its sacraments ; but if, when so told, they still insisted on seeing her, they might come in, provided they did not disturb her with controversy." The Duke repeated this to Dr. Blandford with further particulars, who replied that he made no doubt she would do well, as she had not been influenced by worldly motives ; and afterwards went into the room and made her 138 St. James's Palace a short Christian exhortation, and so departed.' The Duchess's conversion having been kept secret, the bishop would have been severely censured if he had not visited her dying bed ; and having undertaken this duty, he seems to have executed it in a becoming manner. Burnet, in relating the incident, has, as was often the case, got hold of the wrong side of the story. Anne's remains were buried in Henry the Seventh's Chapel. The death of Caroline of Brandenburg-Anspach, wife of George the Second, took place at St. James's in 1737, in her fifty-fifth year. After the birth of her youngest daughter, Louisa (afterwards Queen of Denmark), in 1724, thirteen years previously, she began to suffer from rupture, which, from horror of illness and dread of losing her influence, she did her best to conceal till the end. Her husband survived her twenty-three years. The scene of her death-bed was rendered memorable by her extraordinary courage and self-control, and is told with graphic minuteness by her friend, Lord Hervey. She had long been accustomed to stoical endurance : Sir Robert Walpole relates how, though labouring with so dangerous a complaint, she made it so invariable a rule never to refuse a desire of the King, that every morning, at Richmond, 1 Stanier Clarke, Journal of James IL ; quoted by Miss Strick land, Queens of England, vol. iv. p 441. 139 The Chapels Royal she walked several miles with him ; and more than once, when she had the gout in her foot, she dipped her whole leg in cold water to be ready to attend him. The pain, her weight, and the distemper threw her into such fits of perspiration as routed the gout ; but those exertions hastened the crisis of her distemper. Only eleven days before her death, she rose from her bed to gratify the King's wish that she should preside at the usual weekly drawing-room ; without her, he used to say, there was neither grace, gaiety, nor dignity ; but after supporting her agony as long as she could, she allowed Lord Hervey to ask the King to lead her out. That she suffered much from the doctors of that era was partly her own fault, for it was not till the third day that the truth about her illness was communicated to them. Lord Hervey says that her fever was so much increased by twice taking Daffy's elixir, as well as doses of mint water, whisky, and Sir Walter Raleigh's cordial, that she had to be bled. There was also an injection of hot water, and a painful operation, to which she submitted with cheerfulness, making jokes under the knife. It was on Sunday, 20th August, when the Queen had been taking a solemn farewell of her children (Frederick, Prince of Wales, was not admitted), that the curious scene took place between husband and wife. The Queen 140 St. James's Palace urged him to take a second wife after her death. Amidst his sobs he answered, " Non, non ; j'aurai des maitresses ! " " Eh, mon Dieu," said Caroline, " cela n'empeche pas ! " During the lingering days, the King did not stir from the Palace, but was accustomed to expatiate at immense length before a circle of hearers on the Queen's unique virtues. If she had not been his wife, he would say, he would rather have had her for his mistress than any other woman he had ever seen or heard of. Meantime Frederick, Prince of Wales, frivolous, undutiful, and selfish as usual, was saying to his friends at home : "We shall have good news soon ; she can't hold out much longer." Caroline, from her latitudinarian standpoint, had no great sympathy with the forms of the Church. She allowed Sir Robert Walpole to send for the Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr. Potter, but would not receive the sacrament. All the Primate could say, in answer to eager inquiries as he left the sick-room, was, " Gentlemen, Her Majesty is in a most heavenly frame of mind." But as her last moment ap proached, she asked to be raised in bed, while all present should kneel and offer up a prayer on her behalf. While this was going on, she grew gradually fainter ; but, at her desire, water was sprinkled upon her that she might revive, and listen to or join in the petitions which her family 141 The Chapels Royal uttered. "Louder!" she murmured more than once as some one read or prayed. Her request was complied with, and then her daughter, the good and gentle Princess Caroline, repeated audibly the Lord's Prayer. In this Caroline joined, repeating the words as distinctly as failing nature would allow her. The prayer was just concluded, when she looked fixedly at those who stood weeping around her, and then uttered a long-drawn " So ! " It was her last word. She calmly waved her hand, a farewell to all present and to the world ; and then, tranquilly composing herself on the bed, she breathed a sigh, and so expired.' The funeral seems to have followed the usual ceremonies. Caroline, one of the greatest of English Queen- Consorts, born in 1683, was the daughter of John Frederick, Margrave of Brandenburg-Anspach, styled the delight of his subjects, and of all who knew him. Her mother was Eleanora, daughter of John George, Duke of Saxe-Eisenach. Caroline lived with her mother chiefly at Dresden ; and afterwards at Berlin under the tutelage of Frederick the First, King of Prussia, and his wife, Sophia Charlotte, sister of George the First of England, and daughter of the Electress Sophia. She became acquainted with Leibniz and the Electress Sophia ; ^ Doran's Queens of the House of Hanover, i. 377. 142 St. James's Palace a proposal to marry her to the Archduke Charles was abandoned on account of her Protestant principles. Returning to Anspach, she married in 1705 George Augustus, Electoral Prince of Hanover, living at Hanover. On the death of Queen Anne in 17 14, she accompanied her husband to England, living chiefly at Richmond Lodge. Her chief friend was John, Lord Hervey, one of the twenty children of John, first Earl of Bristol, who has left entertaining memoirs of her Court. As Queen, she gave unwavering support to Sir Robert Walpole, and maintained unbounded in fluence over her petulant and irascible husband by flattering his vanity and conniving at his amours. She was a great supporter of the Low Church and Latitudinarian parties. Her good and charitable daughter. Princess Caroline, died at St. James's in 1757, of what would now be called appendicitis. Of " the truth- loving Caroline," the writer on the Queens of the House of Hanover says, that she was unreservedly beloved by her parents, was worthy of the affection, and repaid it by an ardent attachment. She was fair, good, and accomplished. Inspired by a hope less and permanent affection for her mother's friend. Lord Hervey, she retired from the world, and devoted herself with motherly love to his children. Walpole says that she led not only an 143 The Chapels Royal unblamable life, but a meritorious one. Her whole income was dispensed between generosity and charity, and, till her death by shutting up the current disclosed the source, the jails of London did not suspect that the best support of their wretched inhabitants was issued from the Palace. " Her goodness was constant and uniform, her generosity immense, her charities most extensive ; in short, I, no royalist, could be lavish in her praise." It was in accordance with the odd prac tice of those days that her bowels were driven at night to the Abbey in her own coach, attended by the gentlemen and ladies of her household and a troop of Horse-Guards ; her body was conveyed in the usual funeral procession next day from St. James's to Henry the Seventh's Chapel, and there buried. The deaths of Princess Amelia, sixth and youngest daughter of George the Third, Princess Elizabeth, the only daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (William the Fourth and Queen Adelaide), and Princess Augusta, second daughter of George the Third, which occurred in different parts of St. James's Palace, do not appear to have given rise to any observances in the Chapel. Princess Amelia, who wrote the well-known verses " Unthinking, heedless, idle, young," died in 1810, aged twenty-three; Princess Elizabeth in 182 1, at the 144 \ \ St. James's Palace age of twelve weeks, during which short period she was nearer to the throne than Queen Victoria ; and Princess Augusta in 1840, in her seventy-second year. All three were buried at St. George's Chapel, Windsor. The lying-in-state of the body of Frederick, Duke of York and Albany, second son of George the Third, took place in one of the State rooms at St. James's, in January 1827, before its removal to Windsor. He was in his sixty-fourth year, was Commander-in-Chief of the Army, and married the Princess Royal of Prussia. The Sub-dean records that for nearly half a century no other royal death took place at St. James's. After an interval of sixty-two years, in 1889 died Augusta, widow of the first Duke of Cambridge (seventh son of George the Third), in her ninety-second year. She was the daughter of the Landgraf Frederick of Hesse-Cassel, and gra'nddaughter of a British Princess, Mary, daughter of George the Second and Caroline. The body was placed in the large dining-room of her apartments which had been fitted up as a mortuary chapel, but on the 12th February, the day before the removal of the remains to their resting-place at Kew, a service was held in the Chapel Royal, conducted by the Bishop of London (Dr. Temple) and the Sub-dean. The Duchess was deeply be loved for her genuine and unobtrusive virtues, K 145 The Chapels Royal and her goodness alike of heart and head, by all her many relations and friends. Various memorial services have been from time to time of late years held in the Chapel Royal for various members of the Court. Other Notes on the Chapel Royal, St. fames's. Charles the First made constant use of the Chapel, and it was here that he attended his last earthly, service before he walked across St. James's Park that cold morning of 30th January to his execution at Whitehall. It is also memorable as the first place of public worship in which the Liturgy of the Reformed Church of England was performed. An amusing account is given by Miss Strick land of Bishop Burnet's complaint in 1700 a.d. to Queen Anne (then living at St. James's as Princess) that the ladies did not look at him when he was preaching, but directed their eyes rather to the young beaux of the Court. As Almoner to the Princess, and Tutor to her son the Duke of Gloucester, he seems to have frequently occupied the pulpit. The pious Queen Mary wrote to King William the Third of his "thundering long sermons." Burnet persuaded Anne to have all the pews raised so high that the ladies, when seated, could see nobody but himself, This un- 146 St. James's Palace popular change produced the following amusing pasquinade, attributed to Lord Peterborough the famous general : — When Burnet perceived that the beautiful dames Who flocked to the Chapel of holy St. James, On their lovers alone their kind looks did bestow, And smiled not at him when he bellowed below. To the Princess he went With a pious intent This dangerous ill in the church to prevent. " O Madam," he said, " our religion is lost If the ladies thus ogle the knights of the toastl "Your Highness observes how I labour and sweat Their affections to raise and attentions to get ; And sure, when I preach, all the world will agree That their eyes and their ears should be pointed at me; But now I can find No beauty so kind My parts to regard or my person to mind ; Nay, I scarce have the sight of one feminine face But those of old Oxford,^ or ugly Arglass. " Those sorrowful matrons, with hearts full of ruth. Repent for the manifold sins of their youth ; The rest with their tattle my harmony spoil. And Burlington,^ Anglesey,^ Kingston,* and Boyle.^ Their minds entertain With fancies profane, ^ Wife of Aubrey de Vere, twentieth Earl of Oxford. ^ Juliana Noel, wife of Charles, second Earl of Burlington. * Lady Catherine Darnley, natural daughter of James II., wife of James Annesley, third Earl of Anglesey. * Wife of Evelyn Pierrepont, fifth Earl of Kingston, afterwards first Duke. ^ Probably one of the Burlington family. 147 The Chapels Royal That not even at church their tongues they restrain ; Even Henningham's shape their glances entice. And rather than me they will ogle the Vice ! ^ "These practices. Madam, my preaching disgrace: Shall laymen enjoy the just rights of my place? Then all may lament my condition so hard, Who thrash in the pulpit without a reward. Therefore, pray condescend Such disorders to end. And to the ripe vineyard the labourers send To build up the seats, that the beauties may see The face of no bawling pretender but me." The Princess, by the man's importunity prest, Though she laughed at his reasons, allowed his request ; And now Britain's nymphs, in a Protestant reign Are boxed up at prayers like the virgins in Spain. In Queen Elizabeth's time (1598), the choristers were recommended to follow the lessons in Bibles, rather than to talk and hunt after fines for wearing spurs. Very interesting chapters are given by the Sub- dean on the beautiful gold and silver-gilt altar-plate of the Chapel Royal, St. James's, which is chiefly of the time of the Restoration and the seventeenth century ; the ceremony of offering gold, frankincense and myrrh on the feast of the Epiphany ; the old royal processions, when the King attended the Chapel in state ; the varying proportions of the official staff at the Chapel ; the Georgian custom of ^ Vice-chamberlain. 148 St. James's Palace holding drawing-rooms after the Chapel Royal service on Sunday ; anecdotes and reminiscences of the clerical notabilities who have been connected with the Chapel, and the organists and organs of its establishment. The Chapel Royal has always been one of the best schools of an art of which this country has good reason to be proud, English Church music. 149 V THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL THE CHAPEL ROYAL, WHITEHALL yT was only for a period of one hundred and sixty-five years that the Palace of Whitehall was the home of the Court ; from the fall of Wolsey, 1529, to the death of Mary the Second, 1694. But as that period includes the stirring reigns, at a very gorgeous and sumptuous period of English history, of Henry the Eighth, Edward the Sixth, Mary, Elizabeth, James the First, Charles the First, Charles the Second, James the Second, and William and Mary, there is hardly any limit to what might be written of its scenes, episodes, and memorable events. Here, in this sketch, attraction must be restricted to the Chapel. ^ The history begins with the reign of Henry the Third, when Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, 153 The Chapels Royal Chief Justiciar, brother-in-law of Alexander the Second, King of Scotland, the greatest commander and statesman of his day, obtained a grant of land from the Abbot of Westminster, and built himself a noble palace within easy distance of the royal residence and the Courts of Justice at West minster. On his death in 1242, the property passed to the Blackfriars of Holborn, who sold it to Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York. During the lives of twenty-five Archbishops it was their London residence, and known as York Place or Palace. It was rebuilt by Wolsey on a scale of great magnificence, and no doubt in the same architectural style as his splendid Palace of Hamp ton Court. On Wolsey's fall it was confiscated by Henry the Eighth, by an act of gross and tyrannous injustice to the See of York. The name Whitehall grew up gradually, from the fresh appearance of the stone of the new Palace. Shakespeare alludes to the change of name in the play of Henry the Eighth.'^ Wolsey's Palace occupied three acres. Henry bought a large amount of land from the Abbot of Westminster, part of which was turned into gardens and park, and added much to the buildings. The Palace included two galleries, the Cockpit, Tennis Court, Bowling Alley, and Tilt ^ Henry VIII., Act iv. Scene i. 154 Whitehall Yard ; the Holbein Gateway, a Chapel, and hall for entertainments. It covered the enormous space of nearly twenty-four acres. In the reign of James the First, Inigo Jones was instructed to prepare plans for a wholly new Palace. These can still be seen, and are a monument of his consummate genius and taste. 'There was never, however, money enough in the royal exchequer to carry out so vast and superb a building: only one small portion of it was ever completed, and that was the new Banqueting House, used in the Georgian era as the Chapel Royal after the complete destruction of the old Palace in the reign of William the Third (1698), and now devoted to the purposes of a Museum for the United Services Institution. The magnificent ceiling of the Banqueting House, which delineates the reception of James the First amongst the deities of Olympus, was executed by the vigorous and glowing brush of Rubens at the order of Charles the First, and is now reckoned to be worth more than a million of money. James the Second added a Roman Catholic Chapel to Whitehall. Evelyn in his Diary says of it : " Nothing can be finer than the magnificent marble work and architecture at the end, where are four statues representing St. John, St. Peter, St. Paul, and the Church, in white marble, the 155 The Chapels Royal work of Mi-. Gibbons, with all the pillars of exquisite art and great cost." ' The old Chapel Royal, which must have been in the Tudor style, with a carved timber roof, probably very like the Chapel at Hampton Court, was either destroyed in the great fire of 1698, which extinguished the Palace as a royal residence, or so greatly damaged that its ruins were removed before 1728. One of the first notable royal events in the Palace was the marriage of Henry the Eighth to Anne Boleyn. Stow says it was on the 25th January, St. Paul's Day, 1533; Burke dates on the 14th November 1532. It took place not in the Chapel Royal, but privately in the King's closet. Whitehall was the scene of the gloomy death of Henry the Eighth, and his body lay in state in the Chapel. " He was become so corpulent and unwieldy, that he could only be moved about in a chair, and an ulcer in one of his legs was at this time so fetid as to be hardly endurable by those about him." Deserted by most of his courtiers, he still had time for acts of cruel tyranny. Katherine Parr, the sixth wife, escaped attainder only a few months or weeks before his death. The most accomplished noble of his day, Henry ' ^Quoted in Royal Palaces of England, p. 209. 156 Whitehall Howard, Earl of Surrey, one of the most charming of the early English poets, died on the scaffold on a ridiculous pretext just nine days before the death of the despot. His father, the illustrious Duke of Norfolk, was to have been executed on the 28th January 1547, but fortunately the King died in the night. None dared tell him of his approaching end. "Sir Anthony Denny was the only person who had the courage to inform the King of his real state. He approached the bed, and leaning over it, told him that all human aid was now vain ; and that it was meet for him to review his past life, and seek for God's mercy through Christ. Henry, who was uttering loud cries of pain and impatience, regarded him with a stern look, and asked him what judge had sent him to pass this sentence upon him. 'Your Grace's physicians,' Denny replied. When these physicians next approached their patient to offer him medicine, he repelled them in these words : 'After the judges have once passed sentence on a criminal, they have no more to do with him ; therefore begone ! ' It was then suggested that he should confer;, with some of his divines. ' I will see no one but Cranmer,' replied the King, 'and him not as yet. Let me repose a little, and as I find myself, so shall I determine.' " ' Thus, ^Strickland's Queens of England, ii. 439. 157 The Chapels Royal says Strype, "the last office the Archbishop did for the King his master, was to visit him in his last sickness, whom of all his bishops and chaplains he chose to have with him at that needful hour, to receive his last comfort and counsel. But the King was void of speech when he came, though not of sense and apprehension. For when the King took him by the hand, the Archbishop, speaking comfortably to him, desired him to give him some token that he put hfs trust in God through Jesus Christ, according as he had advised him ; and thereat the King presently wrung hard the Archbishop's hand, and soon after departed." ' His body lay in state in Whitehall, first in the Privy Chamber, and then in the Chapel. A book of Ceremonials was compiled by Stephen Martin Leake (1702-1773), successively Lancaster Herald, Norroy, Clarencieux, and Garter. He embodies an account of the funeral, which is cited by Sub-dean Sheppard in his Old Royal Palace of Whitehall, and from him quoted in Royal Palaces of England. "On Sunday, the 13th of February, when the body was removed from the Chapel to the Chariot, over the coffin was cast a pall of rich cloth of gold, and upon it a goodly image, like to the King's person in all points, wonderfully richly apparelled with velvet, gold, and precious stones ^Strype's Memorials of Archbishop Cranmer, i. 199. 158 Whitehall of all sorts, holding in the right hand a sceptre of gold, and in the left hand a ball of the world with a cross : upon the head a crown imperial of inestimable value, a collar of the Garter about the neck, and a garter of gold about the leg ; this, being honourably conducted as aforesaid, was tied upon the said coffin by the Gentlemen of his Privy Chamber upon rich cushions of cloth of gold, and fast bound with silk ribbons to the pillars of the said Chariot for removing." The next morning the funeral procession started for Windsor, cover ing a space of four miles. Elaborate religious ceremonies connected with the Chapel Royal are described by Henry Machyn, that most useful diarist of the years between 1550 and 1563, at the time of Mary's marriage to Philip of Spain. Her Spanish guests were lodged at Whitehall, and had solemn processions beyond which the elaborations of ritual could hardly go. Another great religious procession from the Chapel was on St. George's Day, when the Earl of North umberland was made a Knight of the Garter, and King Philip took part. Queen Elizabeth frequently kept Christmas and Twelfth Night at Whitehall ; but though, of course, she attended the services in the Chapel at such festi vals, the records of them are connected with plays and masks rather than with religious observances. 159 The Chapels Royal A vivid description of Elizabeth's celebration of Maundy (the ceremony of washing the feet of the poor on Thursday in Holy Week, so called from the French mander, and the Latin mandare, "to command," in commemoration of the new com mandment of St. John xiii. 5, 34) is given by Machyn. It began in the Chapel, but was carried out in the Great Hall. " The Queen's Grace kept her Maundy in her Hall at the Court in the after noon ; and her Grace gave unto twenty women so many gowns ; and one woman had her best gown. And there her Grace did wash their feet ; and with a new white cup her Grace drank unto every woman, and they had the cup. And so her Grace did likewise unto all, and every woman had a sum in money." The same day she distributed to more than a thousand men, women, and children, both whole and lame, 2d. each, as they were collected together in the park.' Elizabeth died at Richmond, but her body was brought to Whitehall to lie in state from 24th March to 28th April, when it passed from White hall to the Abbey. James the First and Anne of Denmark lived chiefly at Whitehall. They were both most en thusiastic revellers in masks, dances, and plays, and kept a most sumptuous, profuse, and ex- ^ Royal Palaces of England, p. 221. 160 Whitehall travagant Court, Naturally not much of this is connected with the Chapel Royal : but a minute description of the magnificent wedding of Princess Elizabeth with Frederick, Count Palatine, has been left by John Chamberlain, a famous letter-writer from 1598 to 1625. "The bride and groom were both in a suit of cloth of silver, richly embroidered with silver, her train carried up by thirteen young ladies, or lords' daughters, at least, besides five or six more that could not come near it. These were all in the same livery with the bride, though not so rich. The bride was married in her hair, that hung down long, with an exceeding rich coronet on her head, which the King valued next day at a million of crowns. Her two bridemen were the young prince (Henry of Wales) and the Earl of Northampton. The King and Queen both followed, the Queen all in white, but not very rich saving in jewels. The King, methought, was somewhat strangely attired in a cap and feather, with a Spanish cape and a long stocking. The Chapel was very straitly kept, none suffered to enter under the degree of a baron, but the three Lords Chief Justices. In the midst there was a handsome stage or scaff"olding made ; on the one side whereof sat the King, Prince, Count Palatine, and Count Henry of Nassau ; on the other side, the Queen, with the bride, and one or two more. L 161 The Chapels Royal Upon this stage they were married by the Arch bishop of Canterbury (Abbott), assisted by the Bishop of Bath and Wells, who made the sermon. It was all done in English, and the Prince Palatine had learned as much as concerned his part reason ably perfectly." ' Charles the First's first appearance after his father's death was at sermon at Whitehall on 9th April 1625. After his marriage, Henrietta Maria had Mass celebrated both at Whitehall and Somerset House (her own particular palace). A marriage at Whitehall brings back the recol lection of one of the most charming of all English Princesses, Mary Stuart, Princess Royal, eldest daughter of Charles the First, wife of William the Second, Prince of Orange, and mother of King William the Third of England. According to the strange custom which survived from the Middle Ages, her marriage was taken in hand at a very early age. Mary was only in her tenth year when her father, still hankering after a Spanish match such as he had tried to obtain for himself, began negotiating for a betrothal of his child to the heir of Spain. Remonstrances were sent by Frederick Henry of Nassau, Prince of Orange and Stadtholder of Holland, which, combined with Charles's con- 1 Chamberlain's Letters, given by Birch, Court and Times of James the First, and quoted in Royal Palaces of England, p. 226. 162 Whitehall victions of the insincerity of the Court of Spain, induced him to listen to proposals for an alliance between the Stadtholder's son, and one of the little Princesses of England. Elizabeth was first selected, then in her seventh year ; but she herself suggested that her elder sister Mary would be more suitable. Accordingly in 1641 an engagement took place between Mary, then in her tenth year, and William, who was nearly completing his sixteenth (he was born the 7th May 1626). "¦ The betrothal was so popular that in spite of the acute political troubles of the time, bonfires and illuminations took place all over London. When William arrived, Mary was in bed with a cold, swelled face, and bilious attack caught at the trial of Strafford ; but in spite" of the dissuasion of King Charles, the young lover insisted on seeing her, and found her much more beautiful than her portrait. Charles and Henrietta Maria were slyly concealed behind the bed-curtains to see the first interview between the young people. William, who was considered the handsomest and most accomplished prince in Europe, made the most favourable impressions upon one and all. The wedding-day was fixed for the Sunday after Easter, and long and elaborate descriptions exist of the decoration of the Chapel with cloth of gold, and of the service, which in cluded a sermon. The boy's description of the 163 The Chapels Royal event to his father is interesting from its simplicity. " I must tell you how I was married last Sunday, the 1 2th of May, and all that passed on that day. The ambassadors came that morning at about eleven to me. The Earl of Holland put me into one of the King's coaches, and conducted me to Vuhael (Whitehall), on the King's side, where he was. The King took me into the Queen's bed chamber, where the Queen - Mother ^ and the Princess were. After a little while I was conducted to the chapel, accompanied by the ambassadors. Then came the King, and soon after the Princess, who was led by the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York. The Queen was in a chamber, whence she saw through a window all the ceremonies. Then the Archbishop ^ began to read the articles of marriage, to which he made me respond in English, which responses I had learned by heart. When that was read, the King joined our hands ; after that I gave the Princess the ring. It was not a diamond ring, but a plain gold ring without enamel. When that was done I was led out of the chapel by the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York, and went to a chamber where I could hear the sermon. The Princess came to this chamber, led by M. Brederode and M. Sommelsdyck, and we were both placed in chairs, and were together 1 Marie de Medicis of France, ^ Bishop Wren of Ely. 164 Whitehall there till the sermon was over. Then I went into the Queen's chamber, where the King was, and the Queen, and the Queen-Mother. The Princess came there also. Then M. Sommelsdyck made an harangue of thanks to the King, which being done, I kneeling asked of the King, the Queen-Mother, and the Queen, their blessing on me as their son, which they bestowed. Then we dined— the ambas sadors by themselves. At the King's table was the King, the Queen-Mother, the Queen, the Princess, the Prince of Wales, the Duke of York, and me and little Princess Elizabeth. After dinner, the Queen-Mother retired to her lodgings, and the Queen went to walk in Hey-parc (Hyde Park), accompanied by the Princess, the Prince of Wales, the Duke of York, and me. The King remained in his apartment. After coming from our walk, the King and Queen supped with the same party who had dined, save the Queen-Mother and the Princess Elizabeth. After supper the King and Queen retired to their presence-chamber, where they re mained till ten o'clock. Then the Queen took the Princess to be undressed in her chamber. The King and all the lords conducted me into another chamber, where I was undressed. The King led me, after I was disrobed, into the chamber where the Princess was in bed. The Queen and all her ladies were about her. After I had been some 165 The Chapels Royal time in bed " (three-quarters of an hour, says the French account), "I left it, and was led into another chamber, where I slept that night. The King and Queen came into that chamber to see me into that bed, and wish me good-night." ' Strafford was beheaded only a week after this wedding. In the following February (1642) Queen Henrietta-Maria took her young daughter over to Holland, and stayed with her for more than a year. The final marriage ceremony was solemnized at the Hague on the little Princess Royal's twelfth birth day, 4th November 1643. She was not allowed to live with her boy-husband till the autumn of 1646, when she was fifteen, and he twenty-one. She gave birth to her son, afterwards William the Third of England, after the death of her husband, in 1650. She helped her brothei- Charles the Second and his little Court with great generosity during his exile. After the Restoration, she visited her brother in London in 1660, and died there of small pox. She was buried in Henry the Seventh's Chapel, but no inscription or monument marks her tomb. The execution of Charles the First took place in front of one of the windows of Inigo Jones's beautiful Banqueting House, which in 1724 became the Chapel Royal. But as it was then in its ^ Archives de la Maison d! Orange, vol. iii. p. 462. 166 Whitehall original use, there is no reason for repeating here that melancholy and familiar scene. During the years that Cromwell occupied Whitehall with full regal dignity as Lord Protector (i 653-1 658), an establishment of Inde pendent Ministers was appointed for the Chapel Royal, Whitehall, and services carried on there regularly after the Independent model. During his last illness he was brought from Hampton Court to Whitehall, where he died on 3rd September 1658. His body lay in state in Whitehall, with all the magnificence which ac companied the death of kings, till it was buried with regal pomp in Henry the Seventh's Chapel. After the Restoration the old brilliant life of Whitehall was resumed by the Stuart sovereigns. Evelyn records how in 1667 the celebrations on St. George's Day, by the Knights of the Garter, were held at Whitehall. After the services in the Chapel, they proceeded to the Banqueting House to a great feast. The King sat on an elevated throne at the upper end at a table alone ; the Knights at a table on the right hand, reach ing the length of the room. About the middle of the dinner the Knights drank the King's health, then the King theirs ; when the trumpets and music played and sounded, the guns going off at the Tower. The cheer was extraordinary, each 167 The Chapels Royal Knight having forty dishes to his mess, piled up five or six high ; the room was hung with the richest tapestry. It was at Whitehall that Charles the Second was seized with his mortal illness after that memorable Sunday evening so graphically de scribed by Evelyn, and from him by Macaulay. In his last hours Father Huddleston, an aged priest who had saved the King's life thirty-five years before, after the battle of Worcester, was introduced by James, Duke of York, who had already cleared the bedchamber of all the nobles and attendants except the Earls of Bath and Feversham. To him the King made his con fession ; on which Huddleston made him repeat the following prayer : "O my Lord God! with my whole heart and soul I detest all the sins of my life past, for the love of Thee, whom I love above all things ; and I firmly purpose, by Thy holy grace, never to offend Thee more. Amen, sweet Jesus, Amen ! Into Thy hands, sweet Jesus, I commend my soul. Mercy, sweet Jesus, mercy." Huddleston then gave him absolution, and administered extreme unction and the viaticum according to the rites of the Church of Rome. Afterwards the King prayed heartily with Ken ; but when Ken again asked him to receive the 1 68 Whitehall sacrament, he replied that he hoped he had already made his peace with God. Details of this scene are given in the Diary of fames the Second, Huddleston's Brief Account, and Barillon's De spatches. Mary the Second died at Kensington Palace in 1694. Her funeral procession was formed at Whitehall, and passed through the precincts of the Palace on its way to Westminster. With the great fire of 1698, which destroyed all the buildings but the Banqueting House, Whitehall ceased to be a royal residence. In 1724, in the reign of George the First, the Banqueting House, where services had occasion ally been held since the fire, was formally converted into the Chapel Royal, and was so used for one hundred and sixty-seven years, till 1891, when the Chapel Royal Commissioners reported that it was not well attended, and recommended that it should be closed. Being at that time a Chaplain to Queen Victoria, I wrote to Mr. Shaw Lefevre, then President of the Board of Works, saying that I thought very few people ¦ knew that it was the Chapel Royal, or that they could attend the services, as there was no conspicuous notice outside giving such information. I thought that if it was treated in the same degree of care and enthusiasm which had been shown by Henry 169 The Chapels Royal White for the Chapel Royal, Savoy, it would be equally popular. It appeared to me that a place where important and instructive sermons could be preached, without the limitations of parish life and services, was of real importance to London. The interior of the Chapel, though exceedingly plain, had great dignity from the consummate sense of proportion of Inigo Jones. The gorgeous figures of Rubens' immense canvas on the ceiling were certainly incongruous, but they were very little seen, and gave a general aspect of dim magnificence. However, the Chapel or Banqueting House was given over to the United Service Institution, and is now an interesting Museum.^ ^ Canon W. F. Erskine Knollys, the friend of Archbishop Tait, and brother of the Rt. Hon. Sir William Knollys, K.C.B, (Treasurer and Comptroller of the Household to the Prince of Wales, after wards Edward VII.), served this Chapel with great zeal and ability for many years. 170 VI THE CHAPEL ROYAL, HAMPTON COURT THE CHAPEL ROYAL, HAMPTON COURT HILE Windsor is the noblest, Hampton Court is the most attractive of the Palaces of England. Its beautiful and romantic situation by the Thames ; the vast'^spread of its courts and wings, " more like a town than a Palace " ; the perfection of its architecture in two great styles, the imagina tive Tudor of Wolsey, and the majestic Palladian of Wren ; its glorious colour, in two prevailing tones of Indian red and scarlet ; the grandeur of the great Hall of Henry the Eighth ; the charm of Wolse)?'s Chapel enhanced with solemn and not inharmonious dignity by Wren and Gibbons under Anne ; the perfection of the proporttons of Wren's two great royal suites of galleries and 173 The Chapels Royal chambers ; the wonderful breadth, richness, and variety of its gardens ; the splendour of its gate ways and avenues ; all this invests Hampton Court with a charm that cannot be surpassed. Hampton Court was for long the property of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. Wolsey, seeking a dwelling where he might find health and quiet, obtained from them a lease of ninety-nine years, dated 24th June 151 4, and at once set about the new buildings. It is not within the scope of the present sketch to give a detailed history of the architecture or decorations of this magnificent palace, or of the events with which it is connected, but to record what can be learnt about the. Chapel. It had, on a smaller scale, some resemblance in style to Henry the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster, with tall perpendicular windows and fan-shaped roof, with pendants and bosses "excellently fretted and gilt";' of these, the roof and the proportions remain. But the alterations under Anne, being themselves of consummate taste and proportion in their own style, with the lovely carving by Grinling Gibbons at the east end, and the great solemn renaissance windows, are a variety in beauty rather than a destruction of harmony. The Chapel, like the Hall and other parts of the Palace, was restored in 1847, ^ John Evelyn's Diary. < 174 Hampton Court when the windows were filled with modern stained glass. It was not till towards 1529 that Wolsey lost the favour of the King; but as early as 1525 the Flemish Envoy in London wrote to the Regent of the Netherlands that the Cardinal had presented his house of Hampton Court with all its contents to the King. And there is a story that when Henry asked his friend and minister why he had built himself so magnificent a place, Wolsey replied that it was to show how noble a palace a subject might offer to his lord. Before this, Wolsey always dated his letters to the King, " From your Grace's Manor of Hampton Court," but to others, " My Manor of Hampton Court." Two years later the surrender was an accomplished fact ; for in 1527, when the French envoys came to London to arrange a marriage between Francis the First, and Henry's daughter Mary, then ten years of age, they rode down to see the King at Hampton Court, and described it as a very hand some house built by the Cardinal, and presented by him to the King. Wolsey's Chapel at Hampton Court was served like a Cathedral. There was a Dean, a great divine, a man of excellent learning; ten singing priests, and twenty - four children ; on festivals, forty or fifty priests assisted at the services, and 175 The Chapels Royal walked in procession before the Cardinal, wearing gorgeous copes, said to be the richest in England. " No minstrels played as well, no children sang as sweetly, as those of Wolsey's choir. The King, whose love of music was known to all, complained that the Cardinal's Chapel was better served than his own, and told his choirmaster, Cornish, that if a new song were set before the two choirs, it was better and more surely handled by the Cardinal's singers than by His Grace's own." ' The christening of Edward the Sixth was the first great regal event connected with the Chapel. It took place by torchlight, the Monday after his birth. The procession started from the Queen's bedchamber, and she herself, so soon after her confinement, had to take part in the ceremony, and be removed from her bed to a State pallet. The infant was presented at the font by his sister, the Lady Mary. The Lady Elizabeth, all un conscious of the awful fate of her mother, was carried in the arms of Queen Jane's brother, the future Protector, and bore the chrism (spiced oil) for her brother. The unhappy Anne Boleyn's father, the Earl of Wiltshire, was present, carrying a taper of virgin wax, and a towel. The font of solid silver was guarded by Sir John Russell 1 Brewer, Letters and Papers of Henry VIII., ii. Part I. 271 ; quoted in Cartwright's Hampton Court. 176 Hampton Court (ancestor of the Dukes of Bedford), Sir Nicholas Carew, Sir Francis Bryan, and Sir Anthony Browne (afterwards guardian of the young Prince, and of Princess Elizabeth, a great builder, grantee of Battle Abbey, inheritor of Cowdray), with aprons and towels. The infant was carried under a canopy by the Marchioness of Exeter, whose husband was first cousin to Henry the Eighth : their mothers. Queen Elizabeth of York and Katherine, Countess of Devon, were both daughters of Edward the Fourth. The canopy was borne by the Duke of Suffolk (husband of Henry's sister, Mary Queen of France, and grandfather of Lady Jane Grey), the Earl of Arundel, and Lord William Howard. While the child was being prepared, Te Deum was sung. The Lady Mary gave her godson a cup of gold, Cranmer gave him three great bowls and two great tankards ; the Duke of Norfolk the same (he was uncle by marriage to Henry the Eighth, having married Anne, another daughter of Edward the Fourth ; he escaped the block by the death of Henry the very night before he was ordered for execution). The train of the little Lady Elizabeth, aged 4, was carried by the sister of the future Queen Katharine Parr, Lady Herbert. The little Prince was born on 12th October; Queen Jane died on 25th October. The body lay in great state in the Chamber of Presence till the M 177 The Chapels Royal last day of the month, when it was removed with solemn . rites to the Chapel of Hampton Court, where the ceremonies and masses were renewed day by day till 12th November, when the funeral procession set out from Hampton to Windsor.' On All Saints' Day, 1541, Henry and his fifth wife, Katharine Howard, were keeping the festival in Hampton Court Chapel. While kneeling before the altar, Henry raised his eyes to heaven and said : "I render thanks to Thee, O Lord, that after so many strange accidents that have befallen my marriages. Thou hast been pleased to give me a wife so entirely conformed to my inclinations as her I now have." He then asked his confessor, the Bishop of Lincoln, to prepare a public form of thanksgiving to Almighty God for having blessed him with so loving, dutiful, and virtuous a queen. This was to be read next day, the Festival of All Souls. That very day, when the King was at Mass, Cranmer put into his hands a paper giving details of the Queen's former misconduct with Francis Derham, when living in the house of her grandmother the Duchess of Norfolk. There is a tradition that the unhappy Katharine, when con fined to her room, made an attempt to see the King when he was at Mass in the Chapel ; and that when she was forcibly prevented and carried back, ^ Strickland's Queens of England, ii. 285. 178 Hampton Court her screams were heard by every one at the service.' Henry the Eighth and his sixth wife, Katharine Parr, who had been married twice before, and whose husband. Lord Latymer, had only been dead three months, were married at Hampton Court, not in the Chapel, but in the Queen's Closet, loth July 1543. The following Christmas, a Chapter of the Knights of the Garter was held, with service and jousts. At Hampton Court Edward the Sixth spent most of his early life. He attended the Chapel very regularly, and made offerings at Mass on Sundays. "The year before his accession he kept Christmas at Hampton Court, and made offerings at Mass on the feasts of St. Stephen, St. John, and Childermas ; on the latter day (Holy Innocents'), he gave the children of the King's Chapel forty shillings for singing Gloria in Excelsis on Christ mas Day."^ In 1 55 1, having received the Order of St. Michael from the King of France, Edward the Sixth kept Michaelmas Day with as great solemnity as that of St. George, and invited the French Ambassador to Hampton Court for the occasion. The royal arms and the badge of the Order of St. Michael were set up together; and the Am- 1 Strickland's Queens of England, ii. 361. ^ Ibid., ii. 41. 179 The Chapels Royal bassador was present at the Communion Service, "where he saw the King reverently with us of his Council communicate the Sacrament, wherein, as we perceive, he seeth and understandeth great difference between our reverence in our religion and the slanders thereof usually spread by evil men.'" In 1555 Queen Mary and King Philip kept Easter at Hampton Court, with all the pomp of the old ritual. And again, " on the 23rd of April, being St. George's Day, after a grand High Mass in the Chapel Royal, King Philip, as Sovereign of the Order of the Garter, went with the Knights, and the Lords of the Council in their robes, in procession round the cloisters and courts of the Palace ; attended by heralds, and accompanied by the Lord Chancellor, and by Bishop Gardiner in his mitre, and followed by a crowd of noblemen and ecclesiastics, with acolytes bearing crosses and carrying tapers, thurifers swinging censers, and clerks and priests all in copes of cloth of gold and tissue. As they marched round the cloister of the old Inner Court (which stood on the site of the present Fountain Court), solemnly singing the hymn ' Salve festa dies,' the Queen looked down on them from the window of her bedchamber." ^ ^ Cartwright's Hampton Court, p. 43. ^ Law's History of Hampton Court Palace, i. 267 ; from Machyn's Diary. 180 Hampton Court During this visit, Elizabeth was brought a prisoner to the Palace, but convinced Mary of her loyalty. She was placed at liberty, and remained at Hampton Court throughout the summer, treated with marked kindness by Philip. She was often present at Mass in the Chapel, and when Mary questioned her as to her belief in Transubstantia- tion, is said to have answered in the famous lines : Christ was the Word that spake it, He took the bread and brake it; And what His words did make it. That I believe and take it.^ We get a picture of Queen Elizabeth attending Sunday service at Hampton Court in 1584, in the narrative of a young Pomeranian noble, Leopold von Wedel, a great traveller. "As it was Sunday, we went to the Church or Chapel in the Falace. This Chapel is richly decorated, and has a fine silver and gilt organ, with many silver pipes, large and small. Before the Queen marched her Life Guards, all picked men, strong and tall, two hundred in number we were told, though not all of them were present. They carried gilt halberds, and wore red coats faced with black, bearing the Queen's arms in gold. Then came the gentlemen of rank and the Lords of the Council, two of them bearing a royal sceptre, a third with the ^ Cartwright's Hampton Court, p. 52. 181 The Chapels Royal sword of state in a red velvet scabbard, em broidered with gold, and set with precious stones and large pearls. Then came the Queen, dressed in black on account of the deaths of the Prince of Orange and the Duke d'Alengon, and wearing a large pearl the size of a hazel-nut on each side of her curly hair. The people on both sides fell on their knees, but she was very gracious, and accepted with a courteous air petitions from rich and poor. Her train was borne by a countess, followed by twelve young ladies of noble birth, and twenty-five noblemen with small gilt hunting- spears. Both sides of the gallery along which the Queen walked to the Chapel were lined by the guard bearing arms. As the day was almost ended there was no sermon, only singing and prayers. Then the Queen returned as she had come, and went to her rooms, and when the people fell on their knees as she passed, she said, ' I thank you with all my heart.' " ' The sprightly spouse of James the First, Anne of Denmark, was, as we have seen,^ an enthusi astic supporter of Revels and Masques. The first Christmas which the new Stuart Sovereigns kept ^Cartwright's Hampton Court, from Baron von Wedel's " Narrative," in Transactions of the Royal Historical Society, ix. 228-251. 2 P. 164. 182 Hampton Court at Hampton Court was a brilliant series of such entertainments, culminating on Sunday, the 8th of January, in Daniel's Masque of the Twelve Goddesses, the Queen appearing as Pallas. But James soon afterwards gave himself to a more serious and congenial undertaking : the Hampton Court Conference, which, under the guise of a friendly readjustment of differences between the Church of England and the Puritans, was as a matter of fact treated as an opportunity for teach ing the Puritans the hopelessness of their position as far as King and Church were concerned, and thus sowing the seeds of that vigorous crop of In dependence which during seventeen years abolished the throne, and banished the Church. It was to have been held in the Chapel Royal, and doubtless services connected with it were celebrated there : but it was found more convenient to conduct the discus sions in one of the King's rooms. The best result of the Conference was the noble and magnificent translation of the Hebrew and Greek Scriptures, carried out in different ways already by Wycliffe, Tyndale, and Coverdale, in that matchless speci men of the finest English diction, known as the Authorized Version. When Charles the First was Master of Hampton Court, Laud, who as Bishop of London was Dean of the Chapels Royal, urged the King to attend 183 The Chapels Royal the prayers of the Church, instead of being present only at the sermon, as had been hitherto the custom ; and records in his diary that " the most religious King not only assented, but gave me thanks." ^ The treasures of Hampton Court, including those of the Chapel Royal, were sold after the execution of the King in 1649. ^"^ ^^53 ^^e Palace had to be bought back, at a loss, as. a residence, for Lord Protector Cromwell. Services after the Independent fashion were established in the Chapel ; and here Mary, Oliver's daughter, was married to Lord Falconbridge by an Independent minister, after the ceremony had already been performed by a clergyman of the English Church, to gratify what the Protector called the importunity and folly of his daughter. On the death of Cromwell, Parliament was only prevented from selling Hampton Court by Ludlow (Commander-in-Chief of the Irish Army, and an opponent of Cromwell's Protectorship). In Feb ruary 1660, it was offered to General Monk. He declined it, but was made Steward of the Manor, and afterwards confirmed by Charles the Second in that appointment. In 1665 Pepys was at Hampton Court on a ^Cartwright's Hampton Court, from W. H. Hutton's Hampton Court, and Hook's Lives of the Archbishops of Canterbury. 184 Hampton Court Sunday, and followed Charles the Second to Chapel, where he heard a good sermon.^ It was for William the Third that Wren built the superb red brick Italian building known as the Fountain Court, with its fagades of unrivalled magnificence to East and South. For this he had to clear away some of Wolsey's building. He had intended to have a corresponding vast court to the West, which would have in volved the removal of the Chapel, and most of the rest of the old buildings : but death intervened.^ On the 24th of July 1689 the Princess Anne gave birth to a son, William Henry, afterwards Duke of Gloucester, the only one of her eighteen * children who survived infancy. On the 28th he was baptized in the Chapel. He died at the age of eleven at Windsor, and was buried in Henry the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster. Though rather delicate, he was a bright attractive boy, devoted to drilling his young companions, and to every kind of playing at war. He was a great favourite with his uncle. King William. When Anne became Queen, "she restored the Chapel after the taste of the day, adorning it with fine oak panellings and carvings by 1 Pepys' Diary, 23rd July 1665. ^ Defoe's Tour, iii. 12. ^ Seventeen or eighteen : the number is given variously. 185 The Chapels Royal Grinling Gibbons, and a royal pew with a painted ceiling."' George the First and George the Second both spent much of their time at Hampton Court, but there is little or nothing to say of the Chapel during their reigns. George the Third had a dislike for Hampton Court, and during his time the State apartments were gradually stripped.^ From 1760 the Palace was divided into suites of rooms for distinguished people on their retirement. It was owing to the kindness of Queen Victoria and her constant love for her people that the Palace and Gardens were thrown open to the public, and became the most popular and charming resort in the neighbourhood of London. The Chapel and its services are kept up for the residents in the Palace. It has seats for 350. ^ Cartwright's Hampton Court, p. io8. ^ His grandfather, the irascible George the Second, had been unkind to him and terrified him here during his boyhood. 186 VII THE CHAPEL ROYAL, SAVOY THE CHAPEL ROYAL, SAVOY fUNNING from the Strand to the Thames, close by the larger thoroughfare Wellington Street and Waterloo Bridge, is a steep little lane called Savoy Street. It passes a quaint little green church-croft on the right as you descend towards the river, on which stands a small and ancient Chapel, of Perpendicular architecture, with an odd little belfry. This is all that remains of the once famous Palace of the Savoy, one of the most magnificent structures in England. Beatrix, daughter of Thomas (i 177-1233), Count of Savoy, married Raymond Berengarius, Count of Provence, and was the mother of five Queens : Margaret, wife of Louis the Ninth (St. Louis), King of France ; Eleanor, wife of Henry the 189 The Chapels Royal Third, King of England ; Saincta, wife of Richard, Duke of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany ; Beatrix, wife of Charles the First of Anjou, King of Naples ; and Johanna, wife of Philip the Fair, King of Navarre. Beatrix, Countess of Provence, had a brother Peter (i 203-1 268) who, in 1263, succeeded his nephew, Boniface Roland, as Count of Savoy. Uncle Peter seems to have been on the best of terms with his English relations, for his niece. Queen Eleanor, persuaded her husband, Henry the Third, to give him the Earldom of Richmond and the Lordship of Essex, as well as the acres for the Palace of the Savoy and its gardens. As Count of Savoy he added Valence to his dominions, and got Foucigny with his wife. Eleanor of Prx>vence, Queen of England, did well by her relations ; for the youngest of her nine uncles, Boniface, a Carthusian monk. Bishop of Valence, became Archbishop of Canterbury in 1241. Count Peter gained the confidence of Henry the Third, and was sent by him on delicate missions to France. On one occasion he returned with a boatful of young ladies whom he proposed to marry to the wards of his nephew. King Henry the Third. The kind-hearted uncle was rewarded, for many of these married gentlemen of birth about the Court, with the special sanction of the Queen. 190 Savoy When Peter inherited the Countship of Savoy, he left the Palace in the Strand to the friars of Mountjoy. Later on Queen Eleanor bought them out, assigning her interest in the estate to her most dear son, Edmund, Earl of Lancaster. His grandson, Henry, Earl of Derby, was created Duke of Lancaster, and left a daughter and heiress, Blanche, who carried the Duchy of Lancaster to her husband, John of Gaunt. The red Provence roses, which afterwards went by the name of Lancaster, and became the badge of that division of the royal family, are said to have been planted in the gardens of the Savoy by Earl Edmund when he brought home his bride, Blanche of Artois, Queen Dowager of Navarre. Figs, cherries, plums, and nuts grew there in abundance. To King John the Second of France, the Good, the Savoy was assigned as a residence when he was brought back a prisoner to England by Edward the Black Prince. Three years later he paid part of his ransom, and was allowed to return to France to collect the rest. Failing in this attempt, he returned to England and surrendered himself once more to captivity. He died at the Savoy in 1364, and Edward the Third gave him a magnificent funeral, personally accompanying the body some miles out of London on its way to France. In Wat Tyler's rebellion, his followers conspired 191 The Chapels Royal with the poorer citizens to burn the Palace of the Savoy, in consequence of the unpopularity of John of Gaunt. Inflamed with wine, they ran there and laid fire to it, destroying a building "to which," says Stow, "there was none in the whole realm to be compared for beauty and stateliness." Henry the Fourth, as eldest son of John of Gaunt, united the estates of the Duchy of Lancaster, including the Savoy, to the Crown. Henry the Fourth died in 141 3; seventy-two years afterwards the throne was occupied by his great-great-nephew, Henry the Seventh, who con verted the site of John of Gaunt's ruined Palace into a hospital or almshouse for needy poor people, who were to be visited in their sicknesses, refreshed with meat and drink, and if need be with clothing, and also buried if they should happen to die in the almshouse. The income was derived from rents in Essex, Hertford, Kent, and elsewhere, and houses in the precincts. There were beds for one hundred inmates, with a Master and staff". From a balance-sheet of 1535 it appears that there were four chaplains on the foundation, two hired chaplains ("conducts"), a sub -sacrist, a sub- hospitaller, four attendants on the altar, and thirteen sisters. It was not well managed, and obtained a bad reputation for corruption. In 1553 (the last year of Edward the Sixth), the Lord 192 r^Ae^ ^Ax^t/te^ on.au<^. fj/a/iMn* T Savoy Chief Baron of the Exchequer recommended that the whole of the estates should be made over to the new Hospital of Bridewell, which the Lord Mayor and citizens were founding with the help of the Crown. Queen Mary, however, came to the rescue of the old Catholic foundation, and re established it in 1557. Of this. Fuller says: "The Hospital being left as bare of all conveniences as the poor creatures brought to it, the Queen en couraged her Maids of Honour to supply it ; who, out of their own wardrobes, furnished the same with new beds, bedding, and other furniture in a very ample manner." Queen Mary also left the Hospital money in her will. Fuller was lecturer at the Savoy in 1642, and again after the Restora tion. He attracted large congregations to the Chapel by his sermons. In spite of Mary's attempt, the Hospital did not flourish ; the Chapel became the parish church of the Precincts, which were reckoned as one of the seven parishes of the City and Liberties of Westminster. Some of the Masters were men of eminence : George Montaigne (or Mountain) (1569-1628) became Archbishop of York; he was Gresham Professor of Divinity, Chaplain to King James the First, Dean of Westminster, Bishop of Lincoln, Lord High Almoner, Bishop of London, an enthusiastic supporter of Laud, and Bishop of N The Chapels Royal Durham. He is said to have won his final promo tion from his royal patron by a profane jest on the nature of a miracle : " Say unto this Mountain, Be thou removed and cast into that See." Another was the rank adventurer, Mark Antony de Dominis, Archbishop of Spalatro, in Dalmatia, under the rule of Venice, who has a most amusing history. He took a leading part in the quarrel between that Republic and the Court of Rome. Henry the Fourth of France contrived a reconciliation between the two disputants ; and the Pope appointed him a yearly pension of 500 crowns to be paid out of the revenues of the See of Spalatro. The Archbishop was so indignant, that he applied to Sir Dudley Carleton (1573-1632), afterwards Viscount Dorchester, English Ambassador at Venice, to know whether he would be received into the Church of England. He was well acquainted with the doctrines and constitution of the English Church from his in timacy with Sir Henry Wotton (who had also been Ambassador at Venice) and his learned chaplain William Bedell (afterwards Provost of Trinity College, Dublin, and Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh). He observed, he said, many abuses and corruptions in the Church of Rome, and he desired above all things to live in a Church re formed ; especially he had an affection for the Church of England. The ambassador acquainted 194 Savoy King James, who thought that his own book on the Oath of Allegiance had been the cause of the quarrel, and did the more desire to receive the Archbishop. He was to be entertained at Lambeth; and all the English bishops, with more of the harmlessness of doves than the wisdom of serpents, agreed to contribute to his maintenance. It is incredible, says Fuller, what flocking of people there was to behold this old Archbishop, now a convert ; prelates and peers presented him with gifts of high valuation. He was a man old and corpulent, but of a comely presence. He was gifted with an unlimited assurance, plenty of ready talent in writing and speaking, of a jeering temper, and of a most grasping avarice. He was De Dominis in the plural, says Crakanthorp {Defensio Ecclesiae Anglicanae), for he could serve two masters or twenty if they gave him wages. He soon began to petition for preferment. The modern Solomon gave him the Deanery of Windsor and the Mastership of the Savoy ; he appointed himself to the parish of West Ilsley, Berkshire, where he made shift to read the thirty- nine articles in English after his induction. For trying to overset all the leases granted by his predecessors at the Savoy, in order to levy fresh fines (large sums paid down at the renewal of leases), he was sternly reproved by King, Bishop 195 The Chapels Royal of London. Now he brought out his work De Republicd Ecclesiastica (On the Ecclesiastical Polity), in three folio volumes, which was trans lated into ten languages. Growing confident, he indulged his jeering temper at the expense of Count Gondomar, the Spanish Ambassador. The Don took deadly offence, and immediately pro ceeded to contrive the Archbishop's ruin by a diabolical plot. Having great influence at Rome, he was easily able to induce the Pope to send the most flattering offers to the Archbishop if he would return. The greedy and unscrupulous old man swallowed the bait. When he heard of the reward of an eight-fold salary, he had a longing to revisit his native land, and petitioned the King for leave. The King, indignant at his hypocrisy, ordered him to leave in twenty days. At this moment, an Episcopal wag, Toby Matthews, Archbishop of York, indulged in one of his accus tomed hoaxes as to his own death ; it was a favourite pastime of his to make these announce ments, in order to regale himself by watching the movements of the crowd of suitors. Archbishop de Dominis had the inconceivable assurance to ask for the place. Refused with scorn, he started for Brussels, his trunks full of English gold, his heart swelling with the Pope's promise of a Cardinal's hat and a rich Bishopric. Nothing 196 Savoy came. Having spent the time of waiting in writing a railing book against the Church of England, he was obliged to go to Rome without safe-conduct or promise of favour. Suspected by the Inquisition on his arrival, he was thrown into prison. There he died, and his body was burnt as that of a heretic' Totally different was his successor, the famous Gilbert Sheldon (i 598-1 677), afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury ; Fellow of All Souls, Oxford ; Vicar of Hackney ; Rector of Newington ; Warden of All Souls ; the friend of Hyde and Falkland ; the faithful attendant of Charles the First at Oxford, New market, and the Isle of Wight ; imprisoned at Oxford in 1648; at the Restoration in 1660 he became Bishop of London, Dean of the Chapels Royal, and Master of the Savoy. He was virtually primate during the old age of Archbishop Juxon, and it was at his lodgings in the Savoy that the celebrated Savoy Conference was held between Puritans and Churchmen. In 1663 he became Archbishop of Canterbury, and was a prominent adviser of Charles the Second. During the plague he remained at Lambeth. He was an active and liberal promoter of the rebuilding of St. Paul's Cathedral. He was greatly interested in the Church beyond the seas ; and as Chancellor of the Uni- ^ Perry's History of the Church of England, i. 306. 197 The Chapels Royal versity of Oxford he built the Sheldonian Theatre (Hall of Ceremonies) at his own expense. As Master of the Savoy, he was succeeded by Henry Killigrew (1613-1700), son of Sir Robert Killigrew, courtier and ambassador. He played havoc with what remained of the revenues, allowing the place to become a refuge for all sorts of bad characters, and granting leases on any terms which might bring money to his pocket. All the hospital buildings were let out in tenements, except a part occupied by royal troops. Killigrew appropriated the rents, and kept no accounts. In 1702, two years after his death, the hospital was finally sup pressed altogether, and only the Chapel remained. Fifty years afterwards there was a flagrant scandal of easy marriages at the Savoy. In the Public Advertiser, 2nd January 1754, appears the advertisement : "By authority. Marriages per formed with the utmost privacy, decency, and regularity at the Ancient Royal Chapel of St. John the Baptist in the Savoy, where regular and authentic registers have been kept since the Reformation (being two hundred years and up wards) to this day. The expense not more than one guinea, the five shilling stamp included. There are five private ways by land to the Chapel, and two by water." The advertiser was John Wilkinson, Incumbent of the Savoy: he does not seem to 198 Savoy have been Master. He is said to have performed eleven hundred of these matrimonial transactions in a year. He was at length brought to justice and sentenced to fourteen years' transportation.^ The modern position and reputation of the Chapel Royal, Savoy, is entirely owing to its well- known Chaplain, Henry White, who was appointed in 1859, and died in 1900. He restored and decor ated the building, remodelled the choir, robed them in purple and white, instituted the Savoy Club which kept them all together, fostered a spirit of intense loyalty to the place, and by his able literary sermons drew large congregations. The marriages at the Savoy became events of the season, and he used to boast that of all those he had performed not one, as far as he was aware, had turned out badly. Distinguished people came to the services : the dramatic profession, interested by the proximity of so many theatres, were well represented ; White's position as Chaplain to the Speaker added to his authority. The Chapel took its place in London calendars among the Chapels Royal, and it has maintained its importance and popularity. 1 Loftie's Memorials of the Savoy gives a very complete account of its history. 199 VIII THE CHAPEL ROYAL, KENSINGTON PALACE Daniel Finch, The work of THE CHAPEL ROYAL, KENSINGTON PALACE ILLIAM THE THIRD, in search of pure air near London for the relief of his asthma, bought Nottingham House, Kensington, from second Earl of Nottingham. repairing and rebuilding was undertaken by Sir Christopher Wren, Surveyor- General of Works to William and Mary, as he had been previously to James the Second and Charles the Second. The Chapel was in the usual style of the period ; an oblong room with oak panelling, carving, and classical windows. One of the early events con nected with it was an Installation of Knights of the Garter, on 4th August 1713. Harley was one, and 203 The Chapels Royal it was the last Chapter of the Order held by Anne, who was only twelve years on the throne. In George the Second's time it is recorded how one of the modes by which Frederick, Prince of Wales, used to annoy his mother. Queen Caroline, was by coming too late to Chapel at Kensington, and making his wife, Augusta of Saxe-Coburg, instead of entering by another door, squeeze to her seat, between the Queen and her prayer-book.^ During the greater part of the reign of George the Third, Kensington remained unoccupied ; but before 1801 a suite of rooms was assigned to Edward, Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria ; in 1 8 10, to Caroline of Brunswick, the unhappy Princess of Wales; and in 18 10 also to Augustus Frederick, Duke of Sussex, sixth son of George the Third. It was in Kensington Palace that Queen Victoria was born, on the 24th May 18 19. The baptism took place on the 24th June, in the Grand Saloon, now known as the Cupola Room, not in the Chapel. Queen Victoria's home was with her mother, the Duchess of Kent, at Kensington, till her acces sion in 1837. They attended the services in the Chapel of the Palace regularly, and it was here that the Princess received her first Communion. ^ Leigh Hunt, Old Court Suburb, ii. 126; quoted in Royal Palaces of England. 204 Kensington Palace The services were for the inmates of the Palace, and were conducted by a Chaplain to the House hold, the public being admitted. The Chapel, a small plain room by the Council Chamber on the ground-floor of the Palace, had already been removed to that position at the request of the Duchess of Kent, to give more space at the entrance to the staircase leading to her apartments.' "The Communion plate included a flagon and chalice with date marks of the year 1660 and 1664, which had been presented by Queen Anne ; a flagon given by William the Third, bearing his initials and the date 1692 ; a paten given by George the Third in 17 14 ; and a paten and alms-dish presented by George the Second in 1736. There is an entry in the Lord Chamberlain's Warrant Book, 12th May 1732, for Bibles and other books for the Chapel at Kensington to cost ;^i56." ^ Mr. Wilfrid Cripps, the great authority on plate, says that the A on Queen Anne's chalice and flagon really covers a C which stood for Charles the Second. "The Chapel was closed in 1901, and some beautifully printed Bibles, which were used in it between the years 171 7 and 1901, and a Prayer Book dated 1760, may be seen in a case in the middle of the Presence Chamber." ^ 1 Royal Palaces of England, p. 333. * Ibid., p. 334. s Ibid., p. 334. 205 The Chapels Royal Miss Thackeray in her Old Kensington thus describes the Palace Chapel : — " The clock began striking eleven slowly from the archway of the old palace ; some dozen people are assembled together in the little palace chapel and begin repeating the responses in measured tones. It is a quiet little place. The world rode beyond it on its many chariot wheels to busier haunts, along the great highroads. As for the flesh and the devil, can they be those who are assembled here? They assemble to the sound of the bell, advancing feebly, for the most part skirting the sunny wall, past the sentry at his post, and along the outer courtyard of the palace, where the windows are green and red with geranium pots, where there is a tranquil glimmer of autumnal sunshine and a crowing of cocks. Then the little congregation turns in at a side-door of the palace, and so through a vestibule comes into the chapel, of which the bell has been tinkling for some week day service. It stops short, and the service begins quite suddenly, as a door opens in the wall, and a preacher in a white surplice comes out and begins in a deep voice almost before the last vibrations of the bell have died away. . . . The great square window admits a silenced light, there are high old-fashioned pews on either side of the place, and opposite the communion-table, high up over the 206 Kensington Palace heads of the congregation, a great square curtained pew, with the royal arms, and a curtained gallery." The following list of chaplains was compiled and contributed to Notes and Queries by A. O. K. in July 1879: — Robert Blakeway, 1 721-1736. Richard Ward, 1 736-1 756. J. Dimsdale, 1757. Seth Thompson, D.D., 1805. John Wetherall, LL.D., 1807- 1833. Joseph Jackson, 1833- 1854. John Barlow, 1854-1867. W. T. Bullock, 1 867-1 879. W. C, Bromehead, 1879. John Graves, died 1888. Miss Grace Ellis, the writer on Kensington Palace in Royal Palaces of England, records how Dr. Davys, Princess Victoria's tutor, who became Bishop of Peterborough on her accession, was accustomed to preach every Sunday morning in the Chapel. " I like your sermons so much, Mr. Dean " (he was then Dean of Chester), the Duchess of Kent once said to him. A low bow from the Dean. " Because," continued the Duchess, " they are so short." 207 IX THE GERMAN CHAPEL ROYAL, MARLBOROUGH HOUSE O THE GERMAN CHAPEL ROYAL, MARLBOROUGH HOUSE N the year 1809, the south-eastern angle of the buildings of St. James's Palace was destroyed by fire, leaving the present German Chapel, once part of that exten sive ^group, almost isolated. The public ' road which now runs through from Pall Mall to the Mall cuts it off still more completely. This Chapel was known formerly as the Queen's Chapel, and was at any rate begun by Inigo Jones in anticipation of the marriage of Charles the First with a Spanish Princess for the rites of her own creed and Church. Orders and notes exist relating to this foundation under the dates 23rd March, i8th April, 20th April, 3rd May, and 30th May (1623) ; in the latter it is recorded that the Spanish Ambassador had laid the foundation-stone. 211 The Chapels Royal As the marriage negotiations came to nothing, the completion of the Chapel was postponed. In 1625 Charles the First married Henrietta Maria, daughter of Henry the Fourth of Navarre, often called the Great, King of France, and Marie de Medicis ; the little bride was only in her sixteenth year. One of the stipulations of the alliance was that the Queen was to have liberty for the full practice of her own religion. She brought over quite a French colony : they are said to have numbered as many as 440 ; among them there was a young bishop, twenty-nine priests, and other attendants. Service was conducted in a room near the Queen's apartments in Whitehall, hung with tapestry and fitted as a chapel. " The Queen," says a contemporary historical letter quoted by Miss Strickland, "at eleven o'clock came out of her chamber in a petticoat, and with a veil over her head, supported by the Count de Tilliers, her chamberlain, followed by six of her women, and the mass was mumbled over her. Whilst they were at mass, the King gave orders that no English man or Englishwoman should come near the place. The priests have been very importunate to have the Chapel finished at St. James's, but they find the King slow in doing that. His answer was (he was evidently greatly annoyed), 'That if the Queen's closet, where they now say mass, be not 212 Marlborough House large enough, let them have it in the great chamber ; and if the great chamber be not wide enough, they may use the garden ; and if the garden were not spacious enough to serve their turn, then the park was the fittest place.' With all their stratagems they cannot bring him to be in the least in love with their fopperies. They say there came some English papists to hear the Queen's mass on Sunday, but that she rebuked them, and caused them to be driven out." Henrietta Maria was a mere child, and very wilful ; and she and her French colony gave Charles the First a serious amount of trouble. It was to her French advisers that he attributed her petulant refusal to agree with many of his wishes. The King wrote on the subject to Marie de Medicis, to his friend Steenie, Duke of Buckingham, and to others. At last the situation grew so intolerable that Charles made up his mind to dismiss (with few exceptions) the whole company. Charles him self was endowed with a gift of determination which was a marked characteristic throughout his life : there is a story in Lilly's history of him that his mother, Anne of Denmark, prophesied that he would live to plague three kingdoms by his obstinacy. The account of the dismissal of the French is given in a contemporary letter. It was in June 1626, before he had been married a twelve- 213 The Chapels Royal month : " Monday last, about three in the after noon, the King, passing into the Queen's Side, and finding some Frenchmen, her servants, unreverently curveting and dancing in her presence, took her by the hand and led her into his lodgings, locking the door after him, and shutting out all, save the Queen." ' They were then sent to Somerset House by Lord Conway, as was narrated in the account of St. James's Chapel on page 94. Some more details are here added. While this scene was trans acting in her own apartments, the Queen, who was detained by the King in his chamber, became very angry ; and when she understood that her French train were actually expelled from Whitehall, she flew into an access of rage. She endeavoured to bid them a passionate farewell from the window, whence the King drew her away, telling her "to be satisfied, for it must be so." However, the infuriated Queen contrived to break the windows, as she was prevented from opening them. Charles, who was also small in person, was obliged to use all his strength to restrain his wife, by grasping her wrists in each hand. " But since, I hear her rage is appeased, and the King and she went to Nonsuch, and were very jocund together." The French retinue were kept at Somerset House (one of the houses allotted to the Queen), ^ Sir Henry Ellis, Historical Letters, first series. 214 Marlborough House while the King detained their mistress at his country palaces ; a few days after he had separated them from her, he came in person to Somerset House, attended by Buckingham, Holland, and Carlisle, and addressed them in a set speech, informing them of the necessity of dismissing them to their own country. The young bishop asked to know his fault, and Madame de St. George, who had been the Queen's gouvernante and to whom the Queen was throughout life devoted, passionately appealed to Henrietta. " I name none," replied Charles ; but he peremptorily ordered their return to France. He gave his promise that they should receive their wages with gratuities to the amount of _;!^22,ooo, and then withdrew with his attendants. By various pretences the French retinue delayed their departure from day to day throughout the whole of the month of July. Besides retaining the Queen's clothes and jewels as perquisites (see p. 95), they brought her immensely in debt to them for purchases, which she allowed to the King were wholly fictitious. At last Charles, exasperated by their struggles to remain in England, wrote to Buckingham the following angry letter to expedite their expulsion : — " Steenie, — I have received your letter. . . . This is my answer. I command you to send all the French away to-morrow out of the town — if 215 The Chapels Royal you can, by fair means, but stick not long in dis puting ; otherwise, force them away, driving them away like so many wild beasts, until you have shipped them ; and so the devil go with them. Let me hear of no answer, but of the performance of my command." Although a numerous collection of coaches, carts, and barges were waiting the next day at Somerset House, the foreign suite unanimously resolved not to depart, saying, " they had not been discharged with the proper punctilios." On which the King sent a large posse of heralds, trumpeters, and a strong body of yeomen. The heralds and trumpeters having formally proclaimed His Majesty's pleasure, the yeomen then stepped for ward to execute His Majesty's orders, which were none other than that " if the French still continued refractory, to thrust all out, head and shoulders. This extremity was not resorted to, as they departed the same tide. A great mob had been gathered in the Strand by these proceedings, and withal most riotously disposed. As the beautiful Madame de St. George was departing, gesticulating with the utmost vivacity, and pouring forth a torrent of eloquence at the atrocity of tearing her from the Queen, one of the leaders of the mob threw a large stone at her head which knocked off" her cap. . . . 216 ^y^zo'n/ , ^^^//^e^to^/^aiA/ a^i^tcJ^'. Marlborough House The only French attendants left with the Queen were her nurse, her dresser, and ' Madame de la Tremouille,' afterwards known as the heroic Countess of Derby, defender of Lathom House." Sir Walter Scott, in Peveril of the Peak, with the freedom of genius, makes her a Romanist ; she was in reality a Huguenot. She had been married the previous year to James, Lord Strange, after wards seventh Earl of Derby, and was daughter of Claud de la Tremouille, Due de Thouars. Three priests were retained for the services of the Queen's Closet. But the Queen became so unhappy and wayward, that a great friend of her father's, the Duke of Bassompierre, was sent over from Paris to reason her into a better frame of mind, and to obtain the redress of any real grievances. After infinite and protracted difficulties, he relates that " First, she has re-established — and this is for her conscience — a bishop and ten priests, a confessor and his coadjutor, and ten musicians for her Chapel ; that at St. James's is to be finished with its cemetery, and another is to be built for her at Somerset House, at the expense of the King, her husband." It is very doubtful whether the Chapel at St. James's, which, as was noted before, was begun by Inigo Jones for the Spanish Infanta in prospect of her becoming Princess of Wales and Queen of England, was finished during the 217 The Chapels Royal troublous reign of Charles. The struggles of Charles with his Parliaments began in his very first year, and were largely occupied with questions of religion ; the fact of his having married a Roman Catholic, and allowed the practice of her religion even in the private apartments at Whitehall and St. James's, was enough to rouse their suspicious indignation without the formal completion and consecration of the Chapel of Inigo Jones, now known as the Marlborough House, or German Chapel. It is stated by one writer (Brayley, Londiniana) that the Chapel was actually erected for Katherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles the Second, and that the first stone was laid by Don Carlos Colonna. Another writer, criticizing this statement (Dr. Rimbault, Notes and Queries), suggests that the Chapel was only refitted for the Portuguese Queen after the Cromwellian period. The truth probably is that the Chapel remained unfinished through the reign of Charles the First, and was completed by Wren for the bride of Charles the Second. In the Court language of the period the use of the word " Chapel " is very ambiguous : it is as often employed to mean "royal ecclesiastical establishment" as the building; and this ambiguity has obviously misled some of these writers. The troubles of Charles the First, both with France 218 Marlborough House and with the Parliament, arose through the un certain course which he pursued with regard to the toleration and recognition of Roman Catholic worship. When proposing his marriage with Henrietta Maria, he had entered into an engage ment with the English Parliament that nothing should be said in the articles of marriage about protection for the English Romanists. On 9th April 1624, he had made a solemn declaration in their presence that "whensoever it should please God to bestow on him any lady that were popish, she should have no further liberty but for her own family, and no advantage to the recusants at home." But Louis XIII. and Richelieu insisted that the same solemn engagements on behalf of the English Catholics, which had been given to the King of Spain, should now be given to the King of France ; and under the influence of Buckingham, Charles gave way. He forced on his father. King James the First, the abandonment of his promise to the English Parliament ; and he obtained from the French Government that the engagement about the Romanists might be given in a secret article apart from the public treaty. Hence, on the one hand, the French were always disgusted that the marriage treaty was not more fully carried out, and especially at its violation by the expulsion of Henrietta's unwieldy Romanist household, through 219 The Chapels Royal which Richelieu had hoped to make an effective papist colony in England ; and on the other, it was a perpetual grievance to the Parliaments that the laws against Romish recusants were not en forced. On the whole, as there are no orders for the completion of the Chapel in the reign of Charles the First, it is most probable that it was really finished after the Restoration. The opening of the Chapel is thus described by Pepys : "21st September 1662. Got up betimes, and walked to St. James's. . . . The Queen (Katherine of Braganza) coming in by her coach, going to her Chapel at St. James's (the first time it hath been ready for her), I crowded after her (he was then aged thirty), and I got up to the room where her closet is ; and there stood and saw the fine altar, ornaments, and the friars in their habits, and the priests come in with their fine copes and many other very fine things. I heard their music too ; which may be good, but it did not appear so to me, neither as to their manner of singing, nor was it good concord to my ears, whatever the matter was. The Queen very devout : but what pleased me best was to see my dear Lady Castlemaine,' who, though a ^ Barbara Villiers, daughter of William, second Viscount Grandison (nephew of George, first Duke of Buckingham), married Roger Palmer, created Earl of Castlemaine by Charles 220 Marlborough House Protestant, did wait upon the Queen to Chapel. By and by, after mass was done, a friar with his cowl did rise up and preach a sermon in Portuguese; which I not understanding, did go away." Other glimpses are given. "24th February 1663 (Ash Wednesday). To the Queen's Chapel, where I stayed and saw their mass, till a man come, and bid me go out, or kneel down : so I did go out." An interesting view of the simplicity and piety of the excellent Queen Katherine of Braganza is in the next record. "24th June 1664. To Whitehall; and Mr. Pierce shewed me the Queen's bedchamber and her closet, where she had nothing but some pretty pious pictures, and books of devotion ; and her holy water at her head as she sleeps, with a clock by her bedside, wherein a lamp burns that tells her the time of the night at any time. Thence with him to the Park, and there met the Queen coming from Chapel, with her Maids of Honour, all in silver lace gowns again." "15th April 1666. Walked into the Park to the Queen's Chapel, and there heard a good deal of their mass, and some of their music, which is not so contemptible, I think, as our people would make it, it pleasing me very well ; and indeed the Second ; created Duchess of Cleveland ; ancestress through her daughter, Lady Grace Fitzroy, Countess of Darlington, of the Dukes of Cleveland, She joined the Roman Church. 221 The Chapels Royal better than the anthem that I heard afterwards at White Hall, at my coming back. I stayed till the King (Charles the Second) went down to receive the Sacrament, and stood in his closet with a great many others, and there saw him receive it, which I did never see the manner of before." "25th November 1666. This being St. Katherine's Day, the Queen was at mass by seven o'clock this morning; and Mr. Ashburnham do say that he never saw any one have so much zeal in his life as she hath ; and (the question being asked by my Lady Carteret) much beyond the bigotry that ever the old Queene-Mother (Henrietta Maria) had." (Bigotry here means uncompromising genuine sincerity.) " 24th December 1667. By coach to St. James's, it being about six at night ; my design being to see the ceremonies, this night being the eve of Christmas, at the Queen's Chapel. I got in almost up to the rail, and with a great deal of patience staid from nine at night to two in the morning, in a very great crowd ; and there expected, but found nothing extraordinary, there being nothing but a high mass. The Queen was there, and some high ladies. All being done, I was sorry for my coming, and missing of what I expected ; which was, to have had a child born and dressed there, and a great deal of do : but we broke up, and nothing like it done. And 222 Marlborough House there I left people receiving the Sacrament : and the Queen gone, and ladies ; only my Lady Castle maine." There is a glimpse of Henrietta Maria's Chapel Royal at Somerset House, on a date quoted before : " 24th February, Ash Wednesday, 1663. Thence to Somerset House; and there into the Chapel, where Monsieur d'Espagne (one of Cromwell's chaplains) used to preach. But now it is made very fine, and was ten times more crowded than the Queen's Chapel at St. James's, which I wonder at." He need not have wondered, if he had known or remembered the King's Order in Council, July 1662, against the overcrowding of that interesting place of worship : it is quoted by the Sub-dean. "On account of the flocking of Catholics to the Chapel of the Queen at St. James's, no English be allowed to attend these services, except the officers of Her Majesty's Family (Household) and their children, on pain of punishment ordered by law." The Roman priest, Huddleston, who adminis tered Extreme Unction and the Sacrament of the Mass to Charles the Second on his death-bed at Whitehall, records that he obtained the Host from the Queen's Chapel at St. James's.' Miss Strickland mentions, amongst James the 1 Huddleston's Brief Account. The Chapels Royal Second's other imprudences, the publicity with which he immediately set up the Roman form of wor ship. " The ostentatious parade with which James thought proper to practise the ceremonials of his Church, gave great offence to many of his subjects. He was no longer contented with accompanying his consort to her Chapel, but opened a (Roman) Catholic Chapel in Whitehall, to which he insisted on their both going in state to receive the sacrament, attended by the great officers of their household." ' It was in the Queen's Chapel that the baptism took place of the little son of James the Second and Mary of Modena, whose birth had driven the Protestant party to their final resolution. " In the midst of these alarms the King, with his usual want of tact, caused the Prince of Wales to be christened in the (Roman) Catholic Chapel of St. James's ; the Pope, represented by his Nuncio Count d'Adda, being godfather, the Queen-dowager, Katherine of Braganza, godmother. This cere monial is noticed by one of the Court in these words : ' The Prince of Wales was christened yesterday, and called James Francis Edward. The Catholic Court was fine, and the shew great. The Sub-dean describes, with many interesting ^ Strickland's Queens of England, vol. iv. p. i6. * Ibid., vol. V. p. 65. 224 Marlborough House details, how, under William and Mary, this Chapel was granted for the use of French and Dutch Protestants ; and how Bishop Blomfield allowed it to be used by the numerous foreign Protestants who came to the Universal Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The fact that the French and Dutch services (held at alternate hours), continued till 1834, seems to show that they took place in the same building as those in the time of William and Mary. It is necessary, again, to remember the ambiguity of the word "Chapel": it sometimes means the building, sometimes the establishment of the special clergy and choir with their congregation. In 1700 the Princess Anne and Prince George of Denmark founded a German Lutheran Chapel ; and it is not clear whether it was in a room at St. James's Palace, or in the Chapel of Somerset House, or, as seems more probable, some new building "against" or adjoining the Queen's Chapel, which was in the hands of the French and Dutch. An exchange certainly took place in 1 78 1 between the French and Dutch ministers on the one hand, and the German Lutherans on the other. Probably under the Hanoverians the German Lutheran congregation became the larger, and (if there were two buildings) needed the more spacious. At the present day, the German Lutheran P 225 The Chapels Royal Chapel is generally known as the Chapel of Marlborough House. The service of the English Church is held there, as well as the German Lutheran. The Sub-dean states that it was in this Chapel that Queen Victoria's elder half-sister. Princess Feodora, daughter of the Duchess of Kent by her first husband, the Prince of Leiningen, was con firmed in 1823, and married to the Prince of Hohenlohe-Langenburg in 1828. Another service was added to those held in this Chapel in 1881 ; that is, one on Sunday after noons at 4.30 for Danish Lutherans. The petition for this service was supported by Alexandra, Princess of Wales. One of the most important events in the Chapel in recent years was a very impressive memorial service in German for the late Emperor Frederick, on Sunday, 24th June 1888. 226 X & XI THE PRIVATE CHAPELS AT WINDSOR CASTLE AND BUCKINGHAM PALACE THE PRIVATE CHAPELS AT WINDSOR CASTLE AND BUCKINGHAM PALACE |HE Private Chapel at Windsor Castle dates from the recon struction by Wyatt in the time of George the Fourth. Its principal feature is an octagon, panelled in white and gold, with small galleries under low Tudor arches. The gallery of the Sovereign is exactly opposite the corresponding gallery which serves as pulpit. When the Sovereign resides at Windsor, this is where the Sunday morning service and sermon take place. The preachers are suggested by the Dean of Windsor, and approved by the Sovereign. Those in later days whom Queen Victoria liked best to hear were Bishop Boyd Carpenter, Dean Stanley, Dean Vaughan, Canon Fleming, and the present Archbishop of Canterbury (Davidson). 229 The Chapels Royal The preacher always wore the black gown ; and before service he was required to write out his text in a clear hand, to be placed on the Queen's cushion. The Private Chapel at Buckingham Palace is a small oblong hall in classical style, with classical pillars and decorations. Among the marriages which have taken place there are that of the present Princess Royal to the late Duke of Fife (27th July 1896) ; the present Queen Maud of Norway to King Haacon, then Prince Charles of Denmark (22nd July 1896) ; and Princess Augusta of Cambridge to H.R.H. Frederick William, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-StreHtz (28th June 1843). 230 XII ST. MARGARET'S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE ST. MARGARET'S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE HIS great historic fortress was known in ancient days as the Maidens' or Maiden Castle. Of this name Camden gives the following explanation. The Britons called it Castel Mynedh Agneth, the Maidens' or Virgins' Castle, because certain young maidens of the royal blood were kept there in old times. The source of this oft- repeated story has probably been the assertion of Conchubhranus, that an Irish saint or recluse, named Monena, late in the fifth century, founded seven churches in Scotland, on the heights of Dunedin, Dumbarton, and elsewhere. This may have been the Monena of Sliabh-Cuillin, who died in 510 A.D. The site of her edifice is supposed to be that now occupied by the Chapel of St. 233 The Chapels Royal Margaret, the most ancient piece of masonry in the Scottish Capital, and it is a curious circum stance, with special reference to the legend of the Pictish Princesses, that close by it (as recorded by the Caledonian Mercury, 26th September 1853), when some excavations were made, a number of human bones, apparently all of females, were found, together with the remains of several coffins. All old historians vie with each other in praise of Scotland's saintly Queen, Margaret, sister of Edgar Atheling, daughter of Edward the Outlaw (by the daughter of the Emperor Henry the Third), granddaughter of Edmund Ironside, and great- niece of Edward the Confessor. "When health and beauty were hers," says one writer, "she devoted her strength to serve the poor and un cultivated people whom God had committed to her care ; she fed them with her own hand, smoothed their pillow in sickness, and softened the barbarous and iron rule of their lords. No wonder that they regarded her as a guardian angel among them." " She daily fed three hundred," says another authority, "waiting upon them on her bended knees like a housemaid, washing their feet, and kissing them. For these and other expenses she not only parted with her own royal dresses, but more than once she drained the treasury." King Malcolm Canmore, her husband, a Celt, 234 Edinburgh Castle and unlettered, was unable to read the missals given him by his fair-haired Saxon Queen, but was wont to kiss them and press them to his heart in token of love and respect. In the Castle of Edinburgh she built the little oratory which still exists, on the very summit of the rock. It stands within the citadel, and is in perfect preservation, measuring about 26 feet by 10, and is spanned by a finely ornamented arch for the apse, that springs from massive capitals, and is covered with zigzag mouldings. This Chapel was dedicated to her in after years, and liberally endowed. Malcolm and Margaret had six sons and two daughters. Of the sons, Edward the eldest was killed with his father at the siege of Alnwick ; Edmund the Second was associated with his uncle, Donald Bane, in the throne, as successor to Malcolm, to the exclusion of the rightful heirs ; Ethelred became Abbot of Dunkeld and Earl of Fife; Edgar, Alexander, and David, all three became distinguished Kings of Scotland. Of the daughters, Matilda married King Henry the First of England, and became mother of the Empress Maud, mother of Henry the Second ; and Mary married Eustace, Count of Boulogne. St. Mar garet took the greatest pains with the instruction of her children, from their earliest years instilling 235 The Chapels Royal into their young hearts the principles of religion and equity. She ruled her household with the utmost wisdom, attending to her servants, and setting them an example. The King was led by her to love God's service, and to unite with her in reforming many ecclesiastical abuses which disfigured the Church in Scotland. An ancient writer says : " She excited the King to do works of justice, mercy, alms-deeds, and other virtues ; in all which, by divine grace, she induced him to comply with her pious desires. For he, seeing that Christ dwelt in the heart of his Queen, was always willing to follow her advice." Within sight of Edinburgh Castle there is a medicinal spring, known as the Balm Well of St. Catherine, where bituminous oil, rising from the coal seams, floats on the top of the water. Legend says that St. Margaret commissioned her friend or patroness, St. Catherine, to bring her some oil from Mount Sinai. After long and sore travel from the rocks of Mount Horeb, the saint arrived at this spot, on the ridge where stood the Church of St. Mary, built by Macbeth, Baron of Libberton, but let fall the vessel containing the sacred oil ; hence the spring. Close by it, James the Fourth erected a beautiful little Chapel dedicated to St. Margaret, but long since demolished. The legends about St. Catherine of Alexandria represent her 236 Edinburgh Castle body as having been buried at Mount Sinai. The probability is that Queen Margaret brought the medicinal properties of the spring into notice ; that, as it was on a rocky ridge, she called it, with devout fancy, the Well of Moses on Sinai ; and that as St. Catherine was said to be buried on that sacred mountain, she associated the spring with some kind of devotion to the Saint. During King William's absence at the siege of Alnwick, the Queen, by the severity of her fastings and vigils, increased a heavy illness under which she laboured. Two days before her death. Prince Edgar arrived from the Scottish camp with tidings that Malcolm had been slain, with her son Edward. Then, writes her biographer Turgot, lifting up her eyes and hands towards Heaven, she said : " Praise and blessing be to Thee, Almighty God, that Thou hast been pleased to make me endure so bitter anguish in the hour of my departure, whereby I trust to purify me in some measure from the corruption of my sins ; and Thou, Lord Jesus Christ, Who through the will of the Father hast brought life to the world by Thy death, oh deliver me ! " While pronouncing the last words, she died. This, says Turgot (Bishop of St. Andrews, formerly Prior of Durham), was after she had heard Mass in the present little oratory, and been borne to the Tower on the west side of 237 The Chapels Royal the rock. She died holding in her hand a relic known as the Black Rood of Scotland, which, according to St. ^Ired, was a Cross an ell long, of pure gold and wonderful workmanship, having thereon an ivory figure of the Saviour, marvellously adorned with gold. This was on the i6th of November 1093, in the forty-seventh year of her age. History declares that with the majesty of a Queen and the meekness of a saint, Margaret possessed a beauty that falls but seldom to the lot of women ; and in her time she did much to soften the barbarism of the Scottish Court. She was magnificent in her own attire; she increased the number of persons in attendance on the King, and caused him to be served at table with gold and silver plate. She was canonized by Pope Innocent the Fourth in 1251. For several ages the room in which she died was known as "Theblessit Margaret's chalmer." A fountain on the west side of the Castle long bore her name ; and a small guard-house on the western rampart is still called The Queen's, or St. Margaret's, Post. The complete restoration of her oratory, says an Edinburgh Courant of 1853, has been effected in a very satisfactory manner under the super intendence of Mr. Grant. The modern western entrance has been built up, and an ancient one opened in the north-west corner of the nave. Here 238 Edinburgh Castle a new doorway has been built in the same style as the rest of the building. The three small round-headed windows have been filled up with stained glass : the light in the south side of the apse representing St. Margaret, the two in the side of the nave showing her husband. King Malcolm Canmore, and her son, St. David. The light in the west gable of the nave has a cross, the sacred monogram, and this inscription : " Haec aedicula, olim Beatae Margaretae Reginae Scotiae (capella), ingratae patriae negligentia lapsa, Victoriae Reginae prognatae auspiciis restituta, a.d. mdcccliii." (" This little building, once the Chapel of St. Margaret, Queen of Scotland, decayed through the neglect of an ungrateful country, was restored under the hand of Queen Victoria, a.d. 1853.") The body of the Queen was reverently conveyed to Dunfermline ; and it was regarded as an in terposition of Heaven that a heavy mist concealed the bishop, the royal corpse, and the awe-stricken bearers from the half-savage Donald and red- haired Islesmen until they had crossed in safety the Passagium Reginae or Queen's Ferry, nine miles distant, where Margaret had granted land for the maintenance of a passage-boat ; a grant still in force. She was buried in Dunfermline Abbey, under the great block of grey marble which still marks 239 The Chapels Royal her grave ; and in the sides of it may yet be seen the sockets of the silver lamps, which, after her canonization, burned there until the Reformation, when the Abbot of Dunfermline fled to the Castle of Edinburgh with her head in a jewelled coffer, and gave it to some Jesuits, who conveyed it to Antwerp. From thence it was borne to the Escurial in Spain, where King Philip the Second built a Chapel for its reception, and it is still preserved by the monks of St. Jerome. Her son Edgar, a prince of talent and valour, recovered the throne by his sword from the usurper Donald, and took up his residence in the Castle of Edinburgh, where he had seen his mother expire. He died on the 8th of January 1 107. David the First, about 1143, granted the Church in the Castle to the monks of Holyrood. In 1 1 77 Cardinal Vivian, on his return from Ireland, convoked a Council of Scottish prelates to the Castle. In 11 80 Alexander, the Papal Nuncio, summoned thither bishops, abbots, and other religious men, and caused the consecration of John to the See of St. Andrews, by Matthew, Bishop of Aberdeen.' Robert the Bruce undertook the repair of St. Margaret's Chapel; in 1329 ;;^20 had been spent on the fabric.^ ^ Royal Palaces of Scotland. ^ 240 •yvt.y^ci4^a.cx4£^ uAc^^^. Edinburgh Castle Before 1366, a Chapel of St. Mary had been built in the Castle for the use of the inhabitants, St. Margaret's Chapel being so exceedingly small. In that year Robert the Second founded a bene faction in . St. Margaret's Chapel for masses for the souls of himself, his Queen Euphemia, Kings Robert and David Bruce, and all Kings his ancestors and successors. The same year this was confirmed by Robert the Third, who named also the priest who should serve in the new St. Mary's. Probably one priest served both. St. Mary's became known as the Garrison Church.' In the reign of James the Fourth, Edinburgh Castle ceased to be a royal residence.' 1 Royal Palaces of Scotland. Q 241 XIII HOLYROOD ABBEY HOLYROOD ABBEY [HE beautiful ruin, which is now left roofless and exposed to every pitiless blast of wind and rain that beats upon it from the cold North Sea or the Pentland Hills, is mournfully typical of the for tunes of the royal family of the Stuarts with which its history is entwined. Robert the Third was the first King who made the Abbey his residence; James the Seventh the last who lived in it con secutively. The origin of the Abbey of the Holy Rood, or Cross, is a legend of miracle. The story is of David the First, one of the ablest of the Scottish Kings, son of Malcolm Canmore, the supporter of the Empress Maud against Stephen ; Founder of the Sees of Brechin, Dunblane, Caithness, Ross, 245 The Chapels Royal and Aberdeen ; Founder of the burghs of Edin burgh, Berwick, Roxburgh, Stirling, and Perth ; the introducer into Scotland of the new regular orders of monastic clergy^ especially the Cistercians ; who made feudal law the law of his country, organ ized a feudal court, and established the office of Chancellor for the administration of the laws, and the publishing of the royal charters. He was hunting one day in the forest of Drumsheugh, now partly covered by the streets of Edinburgh. His followers had been left behind, when in a narrow glade he was attacked and thrown by a stag at bay. He was on the point of being gored to death, when a cross miraculously slid into the King's hand, and the enraged animal took to flight. Of this tradition there are various versions : one is that of Bellenden, who says that the event took place on the feast of the Exaltation of the Cross ; the King, following the desire of his heedless young nobles, and re pudiating the advice of his confessor, took to the chase instead of devoting himself to private medita tions.' David, to commemorate his miraculous escape, founded the Abbey of Holy Rood, in honour of the Holy Cross, the Virgin Mary, and All Saints, endowing it for Canons Regular, under the rule 1 Scott's Provincial Antiquities : . Prose Works, vii. 284 ; Jamieson's Royal Palaces, p. 81; Bellenden's Boece, bk. xii. c. xvi. 246 Holyrood Abbey ^ of St. Augustine, and conferring on it rich endow ments in lands and privileges. * The building of the Abbey was begun in 1 1 28 A.D. ; the Chapel, which is by far the oldest part of the building now remaining, was probably taken in hand soon after that date.' The miraculous Cross, which had saved the life of the Founder, held a conspicuous place in the reHquary. It was said to be of so remarkable a quality, that none could devise the material of which it consisted, or even decide whether it had more affinity to the animal, vegetable, or mineral kingdom. It was reconstructed by Abbot Crawford about 1460. Of the early buildings of the Canons there is no means of knowing the nature or extent. Evi dences of wealth are found in important localities which belonged to them, such as the Canon Mills, to the north of Edinburgh, near the Water of Leith, where the tenants of the princely monks were bound to bring their grain to be ground. The Canons had the privilege of erecting a burgh between the Abbey and the nearest gate of the city ; the main street of which, a communication with the old High Street, is still called the Canongate. It was not till 1636 that feudal superiority over this ecclesi astical suburb was obtained by the City of Edinburgh; and it remained long afterwards a ^ Preface to Liber Cartarum Sanctae Crucis. 247 The Chapels Royal separate sub-corporation, with its own magistrates, and system of local taxation. When the Abbey became actually a Palace is indistinct. Robert the Bruce and other Kings held councils or parliaments in Holyrood. In 1381 the Abbey received a distinguished foreigner as guest of the nation in the person of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, nephew of Joan, wife of David the Second and daughter of Edward the Second of England, and grandfather of Joan Beaufort, who in 1423 married James the First of Scotland. John of Gaunt's Palace of Savoy had been burned down by the Tyler rioters, and for a time it was prudent that he should live out of the country. He was received with royal honours, the heir- apparent, the Earl of Carrick, afterwards Robert the Third, acting as host. When in 1385 Richard the Second sacked Edinburgh, he spared Holyrood at the intercession of John of Gaunt, in gratitude of the hospitality with which he had been received.' The Kings of Scotland exercised the right of bringing their Court to reside at times in the different Abbeys which they had founded, or to which they had been benefactors : Dunfermline, Scone, or Perth. In 1371, David the Second, the unfortunate son of Robert the Bruce, after his captivity in England, was buried near the high ^ Sir Herbert Maxwell's Holyrood House, p. 85. 248 Holyrood Abbey altar. It has been already mentioned that Robert the Third, the second Stuart King (through his grandmother Marjory, daughter of Robert the Bruce), seems to have been the first to use Holyrood as a residence. His able and energetic son, James the First, occasionally kept his court there ; in the Abbey House his Queen, Joan Beaufort, was delivered of twin sons, i6th October 1430. An interesting scene took place in the Chapel in his time. Alexander, Lord of the Isles, who had been in rebellion, suddenly appeared before the King and Queen at service on the eve of St. Augustine, clad only in his shirt and drawers. Holding a naked sword by the point, he knelt before the King, and craved pardon. His life was spared, and he was imprisoned for a time in Tantallon Castle. He became Justiciary north of the Forth during the minority of James the Second.' James the First's son, James the Second, who, like his father, was a capable and reforming ruler, was born, crowned (at the age of six and a half years), and married at Holyrood ; ^ and his remains were brought there for burial after his disastrous death through the bursting of a piece of ordnance at the ^ Sir Herbert Maxwell's Holyrood House, p. 87. 2 He married Mary of Gueldres ; and the French chronicler gives an enthusiastic account of the marriage feast. It lasted four or five hours, and wine flowed like sea-water. 249 The Chapels Royal siege of Roxblirgh Castle in 1460. James the Third was married at Holyrood to Margaret of Norway, whose dowry was Orkney and Shetland,' but he was buried at the Abbey of Cambuskenneth. James the Fourth, the brother-in-law of Henry VIII., determined at last to erect a regular palace on a site which had become so convenient. Between 1498 and 1 50 1 the work was got in hand, and in 1503 was far enough advanced to receive Princess Margaret of England, then in her fourteenth year, as the child bride of the Scottish King, then thirty-one. A most minute account of the wedding festivities was kept by John Younger, Somerset Herald, who was in the train of the infant Princess ; "it has long been the delight of antiquaries," says Sir Herbert Maxwell, "by reason of the vivid picture it preserves of the habits of the time." It is quoted by Maxwell, and at much greater length by Miss Strickland (Queens of Scotland). When the brilliant pro cession had reached the Abbey Church, every one leaped off" his horse, and passed in orderly pro cession within. The King and Queen lighted down ; and he took the Queen by the body, doing humble reverence, and led her to the great altar. They both knelt down together, and passed into 1 Orkney and Shetland were pledged for the payment of her dowry. The dowry was never paid, and they were never redeemed. 250 Holyrood Abbey the Palace through the cloister, the King bare headed, and always holding the Queen by the body. Next day, 8th August, the King sat in state on a magnificent throne in a superb chamber to receive the Archbishop of York, the Bishop of Durham, the Earl of Surrey, and other English lords, who, after being presented, brought in the Queen. The marriage service was performed in the Abbey Church by the Archbishop of Glasgow, after which Te Deum was sung ; and when all the ceremonies had been accomplished, bread and wine were brought in by the lords in rich pots and rich cups. Afterwards they repaired to a magnificent feast in six chambers. The child Queen was served with wild boar's head, pork, and ham, followed by twelve divers dishes besides. After dinner the minstrels played, and the King, Queen, ladies, knights, gentlemen, and gentlewomen all danced. Also some good bodies made games of passe passe,' and did very well. Next day there was a great tournament, and the festivities continued till the 14th. In 1507 an interesting scene took place in the church, when the papal legate. Bishop Forman, and the Abbot of Dunfermline delivered to James a sWord of state, an embroidered belt, and a con secrated hat, from Pope Julius the Second. Pope 1 Either fencing, or the game of Pall-mall, in which the iron hoop was called the Pass. 251 The Chapels Royal Leo the Tenth caused the same honour to be done to Henry the Eighth in St. Paul's Cathedral in 1514. After the death of James the Fourth on Flodden Field, his body was buried at Richmond in Surrey. The oldest extant part of the Palace bears inscribed on it the name of James the Fifth ; there is also an entry in the Lord Treasurer's accounts of 1 530 : Item, To the Egyptians that danced before the King in Holyrood House, 40 shillings. In 1534 James the Fifth presided at a meeting in the Abbey of Ecclesiastical Commissioners for the Extirpation of Heresy. Some of the accused recanted ; the bishops declared that the King had no prerogative of mercy, and two unhappy victims were burned on the Calton Hill, in view of the Palace — David Straiton, a gentleman of Forfar shire, and Nicholas Gourlay, a priest. The Emperor, Charles the Fifth, gave James the Golden Fleece, the King of France gave him the Order of St. Michael; and on 21st February 1536 he was invested in the Abbey Church "with great solemnity," with the Order of the Garter, the gift of his uncle, Henry the Eighth. James was the first Scottish King to receive this distinction. In 1537 James brought home his bride, Magdalen, eldest daughter of Francis the First of France. She was consumptive, and within eight weeks was buried in the Abbey. It was 252 Holyrood Abbey the first occasion of a general public mourning in Scotland. In June 1538 he married his second wife, Mary of Guise, who was crowned in the Abbey on 22nd February. The two boys whom she bore were both buried in Holyrood in 1541. In 1542 James died at Falkland Palace, broken hearted after the defeat of Solway Moss, leaving an infant daughter, Mary Queen of Scots, and was buried in the Abbey beside his first wife, Magdalen of France. In the accounts of 1542 there is an entry of ;^4oo Scots to Sir David Murray of Balmaird as compensation for lands at Duddingston, " taken into the new park beside Holyrood House " ; from which it would appear that the royal deer park included the mountain range of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, and penetrated into the wooded country towards the south. In 1544 the English army invading Scotland for Henry VIII. under Lord Hertford, brother of Queen Jane Seymour, and afterwards Duke of Somerset and Protector, burned down the domestic buildings of the Abbey, but the Chapel escaped. One of Hertford's officers, Sir Richard Lee, carried off to St. Albans, Hertfordshire, two treasures of Holyrood : the great brass font, the gift of Abbot Robert Bellenden, which Lee placed 253 The Chapels Royal in St. Albans Abbey; and the brass eagle kctern which he gave to St. Stephen's Church in the same town. The font was melted down hy sacri legious hands in the Civil War of the seventeenth century ; the lectern was buried by the clergy of St. Stephen's, and dug up in 1750. It was given to Holyrood by Abbot Crichton, after he became Bishop of Dunkeld. In 1547 Hertford, now Duke of Somerset, renewed his invasion, and stripped the lead from the roof of the church. In 1569 Lord Robert Stewart, natural son of James the Fifth, was Commendator, or Lay Abbot of Holyrood. He exchanged temporalities with Adam, Bishop of Orkney, and succeeded in having the lands of the bishopric erected into an earldom for himself. Adam, now Abbot of Holyrood, when on his defence before the General Assembly (the Parliament which had carried through the Reforma tion had met in 1560), incidentally described the state of the Abbey Church. For twenty years it had been ruinous through the decay of the two eastern pillars where the choir, transepts, and nave met, so that nobody was safe under it; not ;^2ooo would make it fit for hearing the Word and administration of the sacraments. With their consent, and the help of the proper authority, he proposed to pull down the Choir and Transepts, 254 Holyrood Abbey and with the price of their materials to repair the Nave. So the Choir and Transepts perished. The tombs of the Kings and Queens before the high altar were removed to a vault at the south-east angle of the Nave. The Nave was converted into the Parish Church of the Canongate. Mary had arrived from France in her capital in 1 56 1, and had found the Reformed service of the Book of Common Prayer, which the Scottish Reformers at first accepted, instead of the mass. It was not said in peace, for the French officers of, Mary of Guise used to attend, with a view of talking and laughing so loud that the preacher could not be heard. The Palace had been repaired by the Scottish Government : James the Fifth's Tower had been restored, and a new wing built between it and the church. The first evening Mary was serenaded by a band of violins and rebecs, and psalms were lustily sung by a large company. The Abbey having become the Parish Church of the Canongate, she had mass celebrated in a small private Chapel. An angry crowd surrounded the door with a view of murdering the priest, but were kept at bay by Mary's legitimated brother, Lord James Stuart (after wards the Regent Moray), who had great in fluence with the Lords of the Congregation and 255 The Chapels Royal the Protestant party ; when service was ended the priest was protected by the two other brothers. Lord James and Lord Robert, who escorted him to his chamber. This demonstration was followed next Sunday by an energetic sermon from John Knox against any masses whatever. Knox's inter view with Mary left both unconvinced, and when at the end of three weeks she set out on her first royal progress, hearing her private mass at the places where she stayed, Knox continued to declaim against the practice. It is not within the limits of a sketch concerned with the Church of Holyrood Abbey, to trace the follies and indiscretions which led to the tragic downfall of the unfortunate Queen. It is enough to say that in September 1564, appeared Matthew, Earl of Lennox, after twenty-five years of exile, to press the suit of his son. Lord Darnley, who through his mother, Margaret Douglas (daughter of Margaret Tudor, Queen of Scotland, and sister of Henry the Eighth), stood nearest after Mary herself to the English throne. Mary was taken with " the lustiest and best proportioned long man that she had seen ; for he was of a high stature, long and slim, well set up, and well instructed from his youth in all honest and comely exercises." She danced with him, stayed with him two days at Seton, wandered about the town with him at 256 ¦iS^, ' fc1>*«S''5ir— . Holyrood Abbey night in disguise, and when, on 22nd July 1565, the papal dispensation had arrived to annul the bar of consanguinity (they were first cousins), they were married as soon as might be on Sunday the 29th, at 6 a.m., in the Queen's private Chapel in the Palace of Holyrood, according to the Roman rites, by the Bishop of Brechin. Next morning, without consent of Parliament, she unwisely had him proclaimed Henry, King of Scots, and an nounced that henceforth all letters should run in the name of King Henry and Queen Mary. None said " God save his Grace ! " except his father, Lennox. Darnley was nineteen ; Mary, twenty- three. The marriage was soon found to be disastrous and impossible. " Intemperate, and violent in his cups, intolerably haughty to nobles, overbearing and cruel to inferiors, he had earned the hatred of all men, except his immediate sycophants ; more over, the grossness of his unveiled licentiousness put grievous affront upon the Queen. He took deep umbrage, because, having received the kingly title, his name was not given precedence over the Queen's upon the coinage and in public acts. He absented himself for long periods from Holyrood, ' in hunting and hawking, and other such pleasures as were agreeable to his appetite.' 1 Sir Herbert Maxwell's Official Guide. R 257 The Chapels Royal On the 9th of March following the marriage (1566) came the murder of the powerful favourite Rizzio, while Mary was at supper in a closet-room off her bedchamber. Five persons were present: Queen Mary, Lady Jane Stuart, Countess of Argyll (her half-sister, legitimated daughter of James the Fifth), Rizzio, Lord Robert Stuart, and Arthur Erskine (Captain of the Guard). Suddenly Darnley burst into the room, from the private winding staircase, followed by Lord Ruthven, pale with illness. Douglas, Earl of Morton, had secured the Palace gates, and arrived with his band through the gallery and bedchamber. George Douglas (future Bishop of Moray), and others crowded up the private staircase. Rizzio was torn, shrieking, from behind the Queen's dress, and murdered at the outer door of the Chamber of Presence, pierced by many wounds. Darnley returned, reproaching his wife with infidelity with Rizzio since the previous September. Mary's friends, Huntly, Atholl, Bothwell, and others, fled for safety, and Mary was kept a close prisoner in her own Palace, Next morning she stood with Darnley over the grave of Rizzio in the Abbey Church. On Monday, loth February 1567, at 2 o'clock in the morning, a terrific explosion was heard at a small house on the outskirts of Edinburgh called 258 Holyrood Abbey Kirk-o'-Field, where Darnley had been lodged about a fortnight to recover from an illness, as the air was reputed good. Mary herself had brought him back from Glasgow, where he had been staying in his father's castle, while she and Bothwell had been paying country visits. The explosion destroyed the little house, and the bodies of Darnley and his page were found several yards away in the garden, without trace of smoke or grime. The eleven months since Rizzio's murder had been a time of great unhappiness between Mary and Darnley; but the day before the ex plosion, Sunday, Mary spent several hours with him, "very familiarly." In the meantime Bothwell and his accomplices were filling the room below with gunpowder. Next day, Tuesday, Margaret Garwood, Mary's favourite chamberwoman, was married in Holyrood, and Mary provided the wedding-feast. On Saturday, the fifth day after the murder, "without any kind of solemnity or mourning heard among all the persons at Court," the body of Darnley was buried by night beside that of his father-in-law, James the Fifth, in the Abbey Church. Next day, Sunday, Mary went to Seton, returning to Holyrood on the 19th. Broadsheets were now all over Edinburgh, charging Bothwell with the deed; and Bothwell continued high in Mary's favour. It was not till 259 The Chapels Royal 23rd March, when Archbishop Beaton, Catherine de Medici, Lennox, Queen Elizabeth, and others had written warning Mary of the views taken of her conduct, that a Requiem Mass for Darnley was sung at Holyrood. On 12th April a mock trial of Bothwell was held, the town being filled with his armed retainers. On 19th April, at the rising of Parliament, Bothwell bore the sword of state in the procession back to Holyrood. On 2 1 St April, as Mary was riding back from Stirling, where she had been visiting her infant son,'^ Bothwell carried her off to Dunbar. There was a difficulty in the way of marriage, but in that age only a slight one : Bothwell was already married to an excellent Countess, Jean, daughter of the formerly powerful George, fourth Earl of Huntly. In papal times, marriages could always be dissolved by the Roman Court on the plea of consanguinity, and the payment of a large fee : on 7th May arrived the necessary dissolution from the complaisant Pope Pius the Fifth, after wards canonized. Bothwell had been through previous matrimonial adventures, but it seems that consanguinity was the allegation. Countess Jean found a happy home with Alexander, the eleventh Earl of Sutherland, and is still remem- ^ He was born 19th June 1566, nearly three months after the murder of Rizzio. 260 Holyrood Abbey bered in that county for her wise and able rule during the minority of her son. She became ancestress of the Earls and Diikes of Sutherland and all their numerous descendants. On 15th May, only three months and five days since his murder of Darnley, Bothwell and Mary were married in the Abbey Church, according to the Reformed rites, by Adam Bothwell, Titular Bishop of Orkney. In three weeks' time, 6th June, Mary left Holyrood for the last time, flying with her husband to Borthwick Castle, "to escape the vengeance of an outraged nation. On the 15th Mary parted with Bothwell for ever, on Carberry Hill, in presence of the army of the Confederate Lords.'" " Her dauntless spirit, combining with the membry of her surpassing beauty, her matchless charm, her kindly ways, has effaced the dubious traits in her character; so that it has come to pass that Holyrood Palace is more closely associated with Mary Queen of Scots than with any other that has lived therein ; and visitors dwell lovingly upon every memorial of her that remains."^ James the Sixth, as stated before, was born on 19th June 1566, in Edinburgh Castle, and crowned a year afterwards, on his mother's abdication, 24th ^ Sir Herbert Maxwell's Official Guide, p. 142. 261 The Chapels Royal July 1567, at Stirling Castle. At Stirling he passed his childhood ; but when his cousin, Esm^, sixth Seigneur D'Aubigny and first Duke of Lennox, was sent over from France in 1579 to replace John Stewart, fourth Earl of Atholl, as head of the Catholic party, James from the first conceived a strong affection for him, and Esm^'s influence became so predominant that he was able to take the King for a first visit to his capital. James took up his quarters at Holyrood, appointed Esmd Lord High Chamberlain, and shortly afterwards created him Duke of Lennox. On ist May 1590 James landed at Leith, after an absence of six months, bringing with him his bride, Anne, daughter of Frederick the Second, King of Denmark and Norway, by Sophia, daughter of Ulric the Third, Duke of Mecklen burg. Ever since 1585 negotiations for this marriage had been in progress, but they were hindered by the objections of Queen Elizabeth. At length the wedding was celebrated by proxy at Copenhagen on 20th August 1589. The bride, on her voyage to Scotland, was driven by a storm to Norway; the impatient James sailed to find her, and discovered her near the modern Chris- tiania. There, on 23rd November, they were married. After their arrival in Edinburgh, Queen Anne was crowned and anointed in Holyrood on 262 Holyrood Abbey the 17th, and festivities were continued for a whole month. When the Presbyterian clergy of Edinburgh protested against the anointing as a mere Jewish ceremony, the King dexterously sent for Andrew Melville, and asked him to pronounce an oration in the service, which he accomplished in verse "to the great admiration of the hearers, and the exceeding joy and contentment of both their Majesties."' In 1594 the eldest son of James and Anne, Prince Henry, whose death in his nineteenth year cut short a life of the utmost promise, was baptized at Holyrood. On this occasion the Magistrates of Edinburgh sent ten tuns of wine to replenish the royal cellars. As a mark of recognition, at the baptism in November 1596 of Princess Elizabeth (the future Queen of Bohemia), the King invited them to be present : whereupon they promised a wedding gift of 10,000 merks. When, in 1 61 3, Elizabeth married Frederick, Prince Palatine, they increased this sum to 15,000.^ On Saturday, 26th March 1603, James was roused from sleep before midnight, by the news of Queen Elizabeth's death, brought by Sir Robert Carey, who rode four hundred miles in sixty-two hours. On Sunday, 3rd April, after sermon in St. Giles's Cathedral, the King addressed the congregation, 1 Maxwell, p. 147. " Maxwell, p. 152. 263 The Chapels Royal and promised he would visit Holyrood every third year. It was fourteen years before he returned, in 1 617. Immense preparations were made by the Lords of the Privy Council : amongst other plans, the Abbey Church (Chapel Royal) was to be decor ated by London tradesmen. Inigo Jones had charge of the work : there were to be pictures of the Apostles, of Faith, Hope, and Charity, and other such religious representations. The people objected, and became so threatening that the bishops wrote to the King begging that the erection of these figures might be postponed. However, "a glorious altar was set up, with two closed Bibles, two unlightened candles, and two basons without water, set thereon." For the first time since the Reformation the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was adminis tered to kneeling communicants. James openly announced a policy of universal conformity with the Church of England, which became the seed of unlimited disasters in the coming time.' On 28th June 161 7 he left Holyrood, to return no more. The next royal visit was that of Charles the First in 1633. He had intended to come earlier; but he had been deterred by the extreme un- 1 Maxwell, p. 156. 264 Holyrood Abbey popularity of his Act of Revocation of 1626, by which he recalled all grants of Crown lands made since the death of James the Fifth in 1542. The day after his arrival, service was performed in the Chapel Royal by Bishop Bellenden of Dunblane. On Tuesday, the i8th, Charles was crowned in Holyrood with much splendour. A minute account of the ceremony is given by Sir James Balfour in his Annals : he was Lyon-King-at-Arms ; for an epitome of it the reader may be referred to Sir Herbert Maxwell's very interesting Official Guide. On 24th June, St. John Baptist's Day, King Charles attended with the bishops in the Chapel Royal, and after the English service, touched about one hundred persons that were troubled with the King's evil (scrofula), putting round the neck of each a piece of gold, coined for the purpose, and hung by a white silk riband. He erected Edinburgh into a bishopric, and attached to the see the parish of Holyrood House, and much of the old Abbey lands. In the autumn of the same year. Bishop Bellenden, as Dean of the Chapel Royal, received orders that the English service was to be per formed twice daily in the Chapel ; that he should preach in a surplice on Sundays and feast days ; that the communion should be received kneeling ; and that Privy Councillors, Judges, and State 265 The Chapels Royal Officials should so receive it in the Chapel Royal once a year. Bellenden, finding this decree im practicable, was sent to Aberdeen, and Dr. Wed- derburn. Prebendary of Wells, was appointed his successor. In October 1636 came Charles's letter to Archbishop Spottiswoode, commanding that the English Common Prayer, with some alterations in a High Church direction by Archbishop Laud, should be used in every church in Scotland. The day appointed for the first reading in St. Giles's Cathedral was 23rd August 1637. The service was attended by both the Archbishops, several bishops, the Privy Councillors, and the Lords of Session ; but the congregation rose in tumult, drove out the Dean, and pelted him with stones and refuse as he struggled back to Holyrood.^ A general supplication, begging for liberty of worship, was answered by a proclamation at Stirling in February 1638, declaring the petition illegal, and that further remonstrance would be held as treason. This was the signal for the National Covenant, the most decisive document in Scottish history. The signing began on ist March 1638 in Greyfriars' Church, Edinburgh. Arran, for whom Charles had revived the Mar- quisate of Hamilton, was sent down to restore 1 Sir Herbert Maxwell's Official Guide. 266 Holyrood Abbey peace, but only on condition of forswearing the Covenant, an utterly impossible proviso. Pro ceeding to the Chapel Royal for the prescribed worship, he found the organ nailed up, and Covenanters threatening him that any who should use the English service again would do so at the peril of his life. In May 1639 Charles arrived at Berwick with an army ; but the hostility both in Scotland and England forced him to agree to a pacification. In August 1 64 1 he went to Scotland to seek aid against the extremists. He had now to accept the people's terms : and worshipped in Holyrood Chapel after the Reformed model, under Mr. Alexander Henderson. On 17th November he rode forth from Holyrood for the last time. During the occupation of Holyrood by Crom well's soldiers in 1650, the Palace was burnt down by excessive fires made by the soldiers in the wintry rooms; but between 1651 and 1658 Crom well caused it to be rebuilt. The Chapel escaped. At the end of 1660, after the Restoration, John, Earl of Middleton, who had commanded both for the Parliament and the King, and was now a zealous royalist, arrived at Edinburgh as Lord High Commissioner. Every statute that had been passed since 1633 was rescinded. Absolute monarchy and Episcopacy were restored. Professor 267 The Chapels Royal Sharp of St. Andrews and three other clergy were sent to London to be consecrated. On 7th May 1662, Sharp (Archbishop of St. Andrews), Arch bishop Fairfoull of Glasgow, and Bishop Hamilton of Galloway consecrated seven other bishops in the Chapel Royal of Holyrood. In 1671 Sir William Bruce of Balcaskie, Charles the Second's Surveyor -General or Architect for Scotland, was ordered to make plans for the re construction of the Palace. The King ordered that in the west quarter of the Palace, "that part which was built by the Usurper and doth darken the Court, be taken down."^ At any rate, the fine tower of James the Fifth was reproduced at the south-west angle, completing a very noble fagade. The new Palace, in good renaissance style, was built behind the front. 'In 1672, the Lords of the Privy Council "having arrived at the opinion that it was ' necessary and suiting to His Majesty's pious and religious disposition that some convenient place be designed and set apart wherein His Majesty and those of his family at Holyrood House may worship God,' they decreed that the Abbey Church should cease to be, as heretofore, the parish church of the Canongate. The congregation was directed to use Lady Yester's Church, until a new parish church was erected, ^ Liber Cartarum Sanctae Crucis. 268 Holyrood Abbey which was done by applying to this purpose the bequest of Thomas Mercer, merchant, who had left 20,000 merks in 1649 to build a church in the Grassmarket. The present Canongate parish church was erected by means of this fund, which Parliament handed over to King Charles, but it was not opened for worship until after the Revolu tion of 1688.'" The double use of the Chapel Royal must have been very inconvenient. In 1679 the extreme unpopularity of James, Duke of York, in England, induced Charles to send him in honourable banishment as Lord High Commissioner to Holyrood. Not being able to alter the services at the Chapel Royal, he had Sir William Bruce's Council Chamber fitted up for Roman Catholic worship. After becoming King in 1685, in 1687 James ordered that the Roman ritual should be restored in the Chapel Royal ; it was also to be the Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle, which order he re vived. These changes were to become effective on ist May 1688. In the meantime a free school was established in connection with the Chapel, where boys were instructed in Greek, Latin, poetry, rhetoric, philosophy, and other subjects ; it was to be a Roman rival to the great Protestant institutions of the High School and ^ Sir Herbert Maxwell's Official Guide, p. 171. 269 The Chapels Royal Edinburgh College. William of Orange landed in Torbay on 5th November, when the whole scheme disappeared. On loth December the fury of the citizens of Edinburgh burst forth ; they "invaded the Palace; they demolished, in so far as they could, the private Chapel ; they plundered the house of the priests, destroyed their printing- presses, and rifled the school ; they brought out to the close the timber-work, the books, and all else on which they could lay hands, and made a bonfire. They sought for the images, and found them at last in an oven, of which the opening was concealed by an old cupboard. These they carried in pro cession through the streets of the town and back to Holyrood, and there they burnt them in the Abbey Close. They entered the Chapel Royal, razed the new work which had just been completed, tore up the marble pavement, and demolished all they could find.'" The Union of Scotland with England became effective in 1767, and from that date till 1745 Holyrood remained silent except for the annual visit of the Lord High Commissioner, who came to open the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, to preside over its sessions, and to occupy the Palace for a fortnight on behalf of the King. During these visits services were held in the ^ Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 1 34. 270 Holyrood Abbey Chapel Royal, On 17th September 1745, Prince Charles Edward occupied Edinburgh, took up his quarters at Holyrood, and on the 21st won the victory of Prestonpans over General Cope. He left Holyrood on 31st October on his march to Derby, and did not return. On 9th February 1746, Prince Frederick of Hesse, husband of Princess Mary, daughter of George the Second, and a Commander in the British Army, took up his quarters for a month at the Palace, and on the i8th entertained his brother-in-law, William Henry, Duke of Cumber land, who had previously spent a night at the Palace in January. In 1758 the Chapel Royal had become too dangerous to allow the services during the annual visit of the Lord High Commissioner. The Barons of the Exchequer ordered a builder to put on a new roof. Unfortunately the man was inexperi enced, and the roof too heavy. On 2nd December 1768, the new roof fell with a crash. Captain Grose thus describes the ruin: "When we lately visited it, we saw in the middle of the Chapel the broken shafts of the columns which had been borne down by the weight of the roof. Upon looking into the vaults, the doors of which were open, we found that what had escaped the fury of the mob at the Revolution, became a prey to the rapacity 271 The Chapels Royal of the mob who ransacked the church after it fell. In A.D. 1776 we had seen the body of James the Fifth and some others in their leaden coffins ; the coffins were now stolen. The head of Queen Margaret, which was then entire, and even beautiful, and the skull of Darnley were also stolen." ' At the end of 1795 the apartments on the eastern side of the quadrangle were prepared for the residence of the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles the Tenth of France, with his sons the Due d'Angouleme and the Due de Berry. The French royal family lived here for four years, and added during that time to the brilliance of Edin burgh society. Charles succeeded to the throne in 1824, but lost it again in 1830. In July of that year he was granted the use of all vacant apart ments in Holyrood. He lived there with his suite under the title of Comte de Ponthieu : other rooms were assigned to his grandson the Due de Bordeaux or Comte de Chambord, heir of the French monarchy, who died in 1883. The exiled King devoted himself to religious exercises, left Holyrood for Austria in 1834, and died in 1836.^ George the Fourth paid his famous visit to * Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland, iii. 275. Queen Margaret probably means Queen Magdalen. ^ Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 141. 272 i-A: VI iML?=4v..--T^ Holyrood Abbey Holyrood in August 1822, under the auspices of Sir Walter Scott. Queen Victoria's first visit to Edinburgh was in September 1842, when she did not reside at the Palace; in 1850 she occupied the royal apart ments, and afterwards frequently rested there on Balmoral journeys. In 1872 she stayed there with Prince Leopold and Princess Beatrice in August; in 1876, when she came to unveil a statue of the Prince Consort, and in 1886 when she visited the International Exhibition. Among those buried in Holyrood Chapel are : — King James the Fifth. Queen Magdalen of France, his first wife. Henry, Lord Darnley, husband of Mary Queen of Scots. Queen Mary of Gueldres] wife of James the Second (removed from Trinity College Church). George, seventeenth Earl of Sutherland, K.T. William, nineteenth Earl of Sutherland.' Mary, wife of Earl William (born Maxwell of Preston, Kirkcudbright). Robert Douglas, Viscount Belhaven, friend 1 Earl William and his wife were parents of Elizabeth, Duchess- Countess of Sutherland. s 273 The Chapels Royal and Master of the Horse to Henry, Prince of Wales. Robert Cheyne, twelfth Prior of Holyrood. George Wishart, Bishop of Edinburgh (1599- 1671). Jane Hamilton, wife of Hugh, third Earl of Eglinton, daughter of James, Earl of Arran, Duke of Chatelherault, and a devoted adherent of Mary Queen of Scots. Jane Stewart, Countess of Argyll, legitimated daughter of James the Fifth, and half- sister of Mary Queen of Scots. James Sinclair, twelfth Earl of Caithness, 1823. Jane, Countess of Caithness, wife of the twelfth Eari, 1853. Hon. James Sinclair, their third son, 1856. Hon. Elizabeth Sinclair, his wife, 1856. Alexander Sinclair, thirteenth Earl of Caith ness, 1855. Hon. Alexander Sinclair, third son of thirteenth Eari, 1857. Frances Harriet, Countess of Caithness, wife of thirteenth Earl, 1854. James Sinclair, fourteenth Earl of Caithness, 1881. Louisa Georgiana, Countess of Caithness, first wife of fourteenth Earl, 1870. 274 Holyrood Abbey Marie, Duchesse de Pomdr, Countess of Caithness, widow of fourteenth Earl, 1857. George Sinclair, fifteenth Earl of Caithness, 1889. The Rt. Hon. Sir John Sinclair, Bart, of Ulbster, M.P., the agriculturist and statistician (1754- 1835). Hon. Diana Macdonald, wife of Sir John, 1845. Sir John Sinclair, seventh Bart, of Dunbeath, 1873. Margaret, Lady Sinclair, his widow, 1879. Jane, Countess of Roxburghe, wife of first Earl, Governess to the children of James the Sixth, 1643. Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, Com mendator of Holyrood, who married Mary Queen of Scots and Bothwell, died 1593. Francis, tenth Lord Sempill, 17 16. John, eleventh Lord Sempill, 1727. Hon. Marion Sempill, daughter of twelfth Lord, 1796. Hon. Jane Sempill, her sister, 1800. Hon. Rebecca, her sister, 1811. Hon. Sarah, daughter of fourteenth Lord Sempill, 1866. 275 The Chapels Royal Maria Janet, Baroness Sempill, 1881. Edward Sempill, her husband, 1871. Eleanora, widow of George, fifteenth Lord Saltoun, 1800. Lord Webb Seymour, scientist, second son of tenth Duke of Somerset, 18 19. Mary Dunbar, widow of Lord Basil Hamilton, sixth son of first Duke of Hamilton, 1760. Mary, daughter of Lord Edward Murray, eighth son of first Duke of Atholl, 1804. Lady Elizabeth Sutherland, daughter of sixteenth Earl, widow of Hon. James Wemyss, M.P., 1803. Ann Watts, Countess of Cassilis, second wife of Archibald, eleventh Earl, 1 793. Lady Charlotte Erskine, daughter of John Francis, thirtieth Earl of Mar, Isabella Carr, of Etal, widow of fifteenth Earl of Erroll, 1808. Thomas, eleventh Earl of Strathmore, 1846. Lady Caroline Edgecumbe, wife of Ranald Macdonald, Chief of Clanranald, and daughter of second Earl of Mount Edge cumbe, 1824. The light and free humour of the leaders of Scottish opinion is illustrated by the fact of their determined insistence in keeping their national 276 Holyrood Abbey Westminster Abbey as a hopeless and irremediable ruin, in spite of a bequest of ;^4o,ooo from the Earl of Leven and Melville for its repair ; ' and on retaining as the principal ornament of Holyrood Palace the amusing series of portraits of one hundred and eleven Scottish Sovereigns, from Fergus the First, 330 years e.g., which were set up on the accession of James the Seventh. All except the last ten (before James the Sixth) are spurious, and were painted to order from a hand some Edinburgh butcher. To dine at a banquet of the Lord High Commissioner in the magnificent gallery which contains these laughable daubs, has an effect of jocose unreality which is most incom patible with the dignity of the Palace, the nation, and the occasion. If they are reckoned as memorial tablets or emblems they might at any rate be hung in a passage or corridor. ^ As an example of what might be done, the lovely Chapel of Roslin, once in a ruinous condition, was exquisitely and admirably restored at the private expense of its owners, James and Robert, successively fourth and fifth Earls of Rosslyn. 277 XIV DUNFERMLINE PALACE AND ABBEY DUNFERMLINE PALACE AND ABBEY |HE picturesque town of Dun fermline derived its original importance from the presence of the Abbey and the Royal Palace. It lies between five and six miles to the north west of the ancient passage across the Firth of Forth called after its promoter, St. Margaret, the Queen's Ferry, The towers and spires are grouped on a gentle eminence containing much broken ground, and giving steepness to its streets and variety to its features. King Malcolm Canmore had a tower here, and a remnant of architecture on a jutting eminence still goes by his name. Malcolm and St. Margaret spent much of their time here: here she brought up her 281 The Chapels Royal children ; here she had her great School of Church Needlework ; here she did her countless deeds of charity, and multiplied with pious zeal the austerities of Lent and Advent. When, in 1303, Edward the First had occupied and subsequently burnt the Abbey buildings, King Robert the Bruce restored them, and built the Palace on the south west side, in addition to King Malcolm's tower. In 1323 his son, afterwards David the Second, was born in the Palace, and no doubt christened in the Abbey. In 1343 David the Second was residing with his Queen, Johanna, at Dunfermline. The Kings of Scotland in those days were very peripatetic, and not only visited their own manors, castles, and residences, but stayed for considerable periods in the different abbeys, and in the castles of the nobles. Dunfermline Palace was the birthplace of James the First. It was a frequent residence of James the Sixth ; and a separate Palace was built for his wife, Anne of Denmark, known as the Queen's House. There, on 19th August 1596, was born Princess Elizabeth, afterwards Electress Palatine, and Queen of Bohemia. There also, on 19th November 1600, was born Prince Charles, who on the untimely death of his elder brother. Prince Henry, became Prince of Wales. In 1602 Edinburgh was visited by the plague, and the Council took measures for the isolation of the 282 Dunfermline Palace and Abbey town and royal residence of Dunfermline. Between 1599 and 1603 Councils were frequently held there. Charles the Second was several times at Dun- fermhne during his residence in Scotland after the death of his father. " In 1708 the north gable wall, part of the front wall, and most of the roof fell to the ground," ' Daniel Defoe found in Dun fermline " the full perfection of decay — its decayed monastery, palace and town, the natural consequence of the decay of the Palace." In the middle of the eighteenth century the adjacent " Queen's House " was used for cock-fights, and in 1 797 it had become so ruinous that it was demolished.' As at Holyrood, the Abbey Church was the Chapel Royal of the Palace. Of this great church, the nave still stands, conspicuous in the massive size of its buttresses, and the richness and strength of its Norman architecture. The interior bears a strong resemblance to the nave of Durham Cathedral, though its proportions are not so vast. Some of the circular columns are plain, some ornamented with a deep and bold zigzag, others with the eight winding lines. The arches of the arcade are richly moulded, and surrounded by an outward carved semicircle. Clerestory and triforium are of simple dignity. Pointed introductions are thought to indicate the repair of damage done to 1 Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 44. 283 The Chapels Royal the Abbey by the followers of Edward the First. Below the windows of the aisles is Norman arcade work richly ornamented by zigzag arches. The possession of the bodies of St. Margaret and her husband. King Malcolm Canmore, made the Abbey a favourite place for pilgrimages. It is supposed, says Billings, that the foundation was a Priory until the reign of David the First, St. Margaret's son, and himself sainted, when it was raised to the rank of an Abbey, Ganfrid, Prior of Christ Church, Canterbury, having been elected its first Abbot in 1128. In 1244 the Abbey was raised to the dignity of the Mitre, the usual privileges being granted in the usual manner by Pope Innocent the Fourth at the request of King Alexander the Third. It was in 1249 that St. Margaret was formally canonized by the Pope^ having long been given that designation by the popular voice. Great care was taken to investigate the numerous miracles alleged to have taken place at her tomb. In 1 250 the bones of the Saint were translated from the place where they were originally deposited, " in the rude altar of the Kirk," to the Choir of the Abbey. The young King Alexander the Third with his mother and a large assembly of nobles and clergy were present at the ceremony. The remains were placed in a silver sarcophagus, which the chroniclers stated to have been orna- 284 Dunfermline Palace and Abbey mented with precious stones. What became of these relics in the rough times of the Scottish Reforma tion has been told in the chapter on Edinburgh Castle. They, or part of them, were conveyed to Edinburgh Castle, and afterwards were taken in charge by the last Abbot. They passed into the hands of the Jesuits, and remained some time at Antioch ; conflicting reports afterwards attribute them a permanent resting-place at Douay, and at the Escorial.' The burial of Malcolm Canmore and St. Margaret at Dunfermline began a long series of royal interments near the remains of ancestors so illustrious ; and the chroniclers generally mention this Abbey as the successor in this respect of lona, the more ancient burial-place of Scottish Sovereigns. Among the seven who are thus recorded, must be mentioned King Robert the Bruce, who died at Cardross, 7th June 1329. His remains were conveyed to Dunfermline, where they were buried in the Choir of the church before the high altar. The body was embalmed, and a rich tomb was erected above the spot. It is supposed to have been made in Paris, of white marble, in Gothic work, and richly gilt. A very beautiful tomb to his mother exists in perfect condition in Paisley Abbey. King Robert's tomb was discovered in ^ Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland, ii. 155. 285 The Chapels Royal 1818, when some workmen were laying the foundations of the modern part of Dunfermline Abbey. This new addition, of cruciform shape with a central tower, was opened on the 30th September 1 82 1. It is an imitation, characteristic of that date, of the old Perpendicular Gothic. In recent years great improvements have been carried out in Dunfermline, educational and material, through the benefaction (;^75o,ooo) of Mr. Andrew Carnegie, who was born in the town. 286 XV THE ROYAL PALACE AND ABBEY OF SCONE THE ROYAL PALACE AND ABBEY OF SCONE TTH the Abbey of Scone are connected some of the most interesting events of Scottish history. The Abbey was founded by Alexander the First in 1 1 15. In the reign of Kenneth the Second (971-995 A.D.), the famous Stone of Destiny had been transferred from Dunstaffnage Castle, Argyll shire, to the royal stronghold at Scone. Dun staffnage is said to have been the seat of the Scottish monarchy until the overthrow of the Picts, when that distinction passed to Scone. Scone is two and a half miles north of Perth, on the left bank of the River Tay. Nearly all, if not all of the Kings of Scotland, until the time of Edward Baliol, were crowned on the Stone of J 289 The Chapels Royal Destiny. In 1296 it was carried off by Edward the First, and placed in Westminster Abbey, for the Coronation of the Sovereigns of England. The old Bardic prophecy ran thus : Except old seers do feign. And wizard wits be blind. The Scots in place must reign Where they this stone shall find. Since James the Sixth of Scotland ascended the throne of England, this prediction has been literally fulfilled. The present Palace of Scone is a modern building, replacing one erected by the Earl of Gowrie and Sir David Murray of Gospatrick (afterwards created Lord Scone) in the reign of James the Sixth, which occupied the site of the old Palace of the Kings. Much of the old furniture of James the Sixth's building is pre served in the present Palace ; there is a bed used by James the Sixth, and another with hangings of flowered crimson velvet, said to have been worked by Queen Mary during her imprisonment in Loch Leven Castle. The gallery, which is 160 feet long, occupies the place of the old Coronation Hall, where Charles the Second was crowned King of Scots in 1 65 1. Mr. Robertson considers it probable that it was Malcolm the Second (1005-1034 a.d.), son 290 Royal Palace and Abbey of Scone of Kenneth the Second, and grandfather of the King Duncan of Shakespeare (murdered by his nephew, Macbeth), who first abandoned the habits of Kings who dwelt successively with different nobles, and established at Scone a fixed court round the Stone of Destiny.^ When Alexander the First founded the Abbey at Scone, the ancient Palace may have been in corporated, or the two may have existed side by side as they did at Dunfermline. At any rate it continued to be a frequent residence of Kings. ^ Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 9. 291 XVI CHAPEL ROYAL, STIRLING CASTLE CHAPEL ROYAL, STIRLING CASTLE JTIRLING CASTLE, the Windsor of Scotland, stands on a site of extraordinary beauty. Whether seen from the plain below, or the battlements above, the build ings are full of variety and dignity, rich in archi tectural ornaments, and differences of elevation. The town, which climbs the sloping side of the Castle which ends in the bastions and turreted walls reared on the precipitous cliffs, is full of old houses with paved courts, arched entrances, and pleasant gardens. The fertile plain of Forth spreads round, with its wooded undulations and rich fields, stately mansions with their pleasure- grounds, the windings of the famous river, widening towards the sea, and the clustered houses of cheerful towns and villages. In the 295 The Chapels Royal distance rise the purple peaks of the Grampians, with the familiar forms of Ben Lomond, Ben Aan, Ben Lui, and Ben Voirlich to the west. Some of the principal battlegrounds of Scotland lie around : Stirling, when Wallace defended the old bridge ; Dunblane, Falkirk, and Bannoclcburn. The oldest part of the Castle is on the south west, a rough simple square tower, with bastions overhanging the precipice. The Parliament House was probably built by James the Third ; its Great Hall, 120 feet in length, and other rooms, are now used as the mess-room and other offices of the garrison. In this group of buildings is the Chapel Royal, built by James the Sixth in 1594 to super sede one of earlier date.' Long an armoury, and at one time the garrison Chapel, it is now roofed across, and used for stores, or as a shelter hall for picnic parties. Last year (191 1) the staff of the Royal Engineers in Scotland was ordered to report on the possibility of restoration ; but the reply was returned that all architectural features of interest had been obliterated. The Castle has not been improved by being used as a barrack ; it is the headquarters of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. Although earlier Scottish Sovereigns often held their Court and Parliament in Stirling Castle, it did not become one of their stated residences till ^ Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland. Stirling Castle the times of the family of Stewart.' From the different Stewart princes it received its present form ; specially James the Third (the architect King), James the Fifth (the nephew of Henry the Eighth), and James the Sixth (the First of England). It was the birthplace of James the Second, who often made his home there ; there he unfortunately stained his reign and character by the murder, with his own hand, of William, Earl of Douglas, in violation of his own writ of safe-conduct. In his day the royal apartments were in the north-west corner of the Castle, and are now partly the residence of one of the officers of the garrison. The closet where the murder was committed still goes by the name of the Douglas's Room." James the Third had a peculiar fondness for the Castle on account of its pleasant situation, made it his principal residence, and shut himself in it so closely with his favourites, that the barons and nobles were seldom admitted to his presence. Besides repairing and embellishing that part which had fallen in, he added several new structures, especially the Parliament Hall mentioned above. It has an oak roof of exquisite workmanship, and full of carvings. 1 The spelling " Stuart " seems to have come in at a later date. 2 Rev William Nimmo, History of Stirlingshire, 1817. 297 The Chapels Royal The Castle had formerly within its walls a Chapel sacred to St. Michael, the founder of which is not certainly known. It may possibly have been Robert, Duke of Albany, the Regent, as a charter of his is quoted in Robertson's Index granting ten merks from the lands of Craigforth in Stirlingshire for a chaplain in St. Michael's Chapel, in the Castle of Stirling. James the Third instituted a College of secular priests in the Castle, and erected for them a special Chapel Royal. His annexation of the rich tempor alities of the Priory of Coldingham to the Chapel Royal, by offending Lord Home and Lord Hailes, was one of the causes of his ruin. James the Fiftji was crowned here. The chief ornament of the Castle, "the Palace," all of hewn stone with much statuary work on it, was built by him. The form is square with a small court in the middle, where the King's lions are said to have been kept, and which still goes by the name of the Lion's Den. "The Palace" has many large and beautiful rooms ; the ground storey is used by the soldiers of the garrison, the upper by the officers. The Chapel which replaced that of James the Third was built by James the Sixth in 1594 for the baptism of his eldest son. Prince Henry. When it became a storehouse there used to be 298 Stirling Castle preserved in it the hull of a boat which the whimsical fancy of the King caused to be built, and placed on a carriage, to convey into the Great Hall the provi sions for a grand repast to the foreign ambassadors and other company on that occasion. From the roof also used to hang a square block of wood, on which were carved models of the Castles of Edin burgh, Stirling, Dumbarton, and Blackness.^ Mary Queen of Scots was crowned here by Cardinal Beaton in 1543 when scarcely nine months old. Arran the Regent carried the crown on that occasion, and Lennox the sceptre. A numerous assembly of the Estates of the realm then present, appointed the Castle to be her residence, and committed the alternate keeping of her person and superintendence of her education to the Lords Graham, Lindsay, Erskine, and Livingston. After the disastrous battle of Pinkie (loth September 1547), she was sent to a Priory on the Loch of Menteith, and then to Dumbarton Castle. On 7th July 1548 the Estates ratified an agreement for her marriage to the Dauphin of France (Francis the Second), and decided that she should be im mediately sent thither. Mary's first coin with her 1 Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland; The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, by MacGibbon and Ross (Edinburgh: Douglas, 1896); The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, MacGibbon and Ross, 1887. 299 The Chapels Royal effigy as a crowned infant received the popular name of the Bawbee (Baby) : and the word is still used in Scotland for a halfpenny. James the Sixth, Mary's only son, was born in Edinburgh Castle, 19th June 1566, but soon after conveyed to Stirling; where, on 13th December, he was baptized with much solemnity in the Chapel of James the Third. Great preparations were made for the occasion. Couriers were despatched to the Courts of England, France, and Savoy (the Duke of Savoy was uncle to Mary's first husband, Francis the Second) ; and ambassadors arrived from each to do honour to the occasion. A convention of the Estates granted ;^iooo to defray the expense. The Earl of Bedford arrived with a vast retinue as ambassador from Elizabeth, and brought as a gift a font of gold, weighing two stone, to be used on the occasion. M. du Croc was deputed to represent the Duke of Savoy ; the Count of Brienne represented the King of France. On the day appointed for the baptism, the Prince was carried at five in the evening from his chamber into the Chapel by the French Ambassador, through a passage lined on either side by nobleS and gentlemen. The ambassador was followed by four lords of the Roman persuasion, namely, the Earl of Atholl bearing the great wax-cloth, the Earl of Eglinton carrying the salt. Lord Sempill 300 Stirling Castle the Cude or face-cloth. Lord Ross the basin and ewer. At the door of the Chapel the Prince was received by Hamilton, Archbishop of St. Andrews, accompanied by Bishops Crichton of Dunkeld, Chisholm of Dunblane, and Lesley of Ross. Next followed the Prior of Whithorne, and several Deans and Archdeacons, with the officers and singers of the Chapel. After the ceremony there followed a great supper, at which the Queen presided, with de Brienne on her right, Bedford on her left, and du Croc at the other end. Next year, 1567, came the Coronation. "On 29th July, at about two in the afternoon, towns men of Stirling and soldiers gathered on the castle hill ready for a sudden outbreak or attack. Then Lady Mar issued out of the Castle with the prince in her arms, and went towards the Chapel. She was followed by her husband, and by Morton, Atholl, Glencairn, Hume, Lindsay, Ruthven, San quhar, and some undistinguished barons. When they reached the Chapel, Adam, Bishop of Orkney, delivered an exhortation ; and then he anointed the prince, on whose head Atholl placed the crown. The little procession returned to the Castle ; Atholl with the crown, Morton with the sceptre, Glencairn with the sword, and Mar who carried the newly made King." ' 1 Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 188. 301 The Chapels Royal In 1616 preparations were made for a visit from King James from England. The Bishop of Galloway was to hold a commission of persons who claimed the right to conduct the services of the Chapel, the canons, singers, and others. It had been found that some were ignorant of music, others had abandoned their posts. The Bishop was to examine them, keep only those who were fit, and charge them to dwell either at Stirling or Holyrood. The last appearance of Stirling Castle in history was the part it played in the Jacobite risings of 1 7 15 and 1745. In neither of these does the Chapel emerge. Since that time the Castle has been a barrack and a centre for visitors. l(.Fimx^ 302 XVII THE CHAPEL IN LINLITHGOW PALACE THE CHAPEL IN LINLITHGOW PALACE HEN, in 1538, Mary of Guise, the Queen of James the Fifth and mother of Mary Queen of Scots, visited Linlithgow, _____ before she made her entry into Edinburgh^ she declared that she had never seen "a more princely palace." It was always regarded with admiration. In 1570 Leslie the historian dilates on the great charm of the town "decorated with the King's palace, a beautiful temple (the Parish Church of Linlithgow which adjoins the Palace), and a pleasant loch swarming full of fine perch, and other notable fish." In the seventeenth century Sibbald describes the Palace as "magnificently built of polished stone." And Billings writes: "The railway traveller between Glasgow and Edinburgh can hardly fail to be attracted by the picturesque site and character of u 305 The Chapels Royal the ancient borough of Linlithgow, crowned by the towers and clustered gables of its Palace, and the belfry of its church ; beautiful added features which keep well 4n harmony with its gently sloping banks, its venerable trees, and its pellucid lake." Some of its importance it derived from the fact of being half-way between Edinburgh and Stirling, an easy day's ride from either Castle, and therefore a convenient resting-place for the Court. It seems always to have been royal property: but the historian of "the Royal Palace of Linlithgow" tells us that "it was not till the accession of the Stewart family to the throne, that it became a fixed Royal residence ; nor till that of James the Fourth that it became a favourite one. James the First, though he minted some of his coins at Linlithgow, never resided in the Palace; nor does it seem to have been particularly fayoured in any way by either the Second or Third James. It was, how ever, named in several royal settlements, as a jointure house for Scottish Queens." During the reigns of James the Fourth, James the Fifth, Mary Queen of Scots, James the Sixth, Charles the First, and George the Second, it was the scene of many varied and stirring events. To record these, how ever, is not to the present purpose. " It is evident that the Palace is divided into two distinct eras of architecture. Towards the 306 Linlithgow Palace south-west, the great square tower, the battlements of which frown over the gateway, is the old Scottish 'tower-house' of the thirteenth or four teenth century, utterly devoid of ornament, but well adapted for defence. The remainder of the building (the work chiefly of James the Fifth and James the Sixth), having little regard to defence, is highly ornamental, and conveys almost less of the characteristics of a time of war and bloodshed, than any other ancient royal or baronial residence in Scotland."' "When the gateway is passed, the most striking object is a row of tall narrow circular- arched windows, of remarkable dignity, belonging to the Chapel of the Palace." "The buildings are rangqd in the form of a quadrangle, and a vaulted passage piercing the screen of edifices in front, leads to the central court, surrounded by buildings, the architecture of which has variety enough to be rich without being irregular or grotesque. To those who have travelled in Germany, the first effect of the interior of the Quadrangle is im mediately to recall to their minds the more colossal ruins of Heidelberg ; and it is worth remembering that a portion of the palace-castle of the Palatinate was built under the eye of one who had spent part of her earlier and happier days in Linlithgow— ^ Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland, "»• 335- 307 The Chapels Royal Elizabeth, daughter of James the Sixth, the un fortunate Queen of Bohemia." "The most remarkable objects in the interior are the Chapel, where there are many niches, show ing fragments of decoration still more elaborate than those of the exterior; and the Hall or Parliament-house, the roof of which appears to have consisted of oaken beams, formed into open archwork springing from ornamental brackets on the walls." The Chapel had a gallery at the west end. Linlithgow was part of the dower of Margaret Tudor, sister of Henry the Eighth and wife of James the Fourth. Tradition says that it was in the beautiful octagonal chamber, at the top of the staircase of the South-West Tower, from which she had a magnificent view over the country south wards, that she awaited news of the army of Scotland in that fatal campaign which ended in Flodden. It is still called Queen Margaret's Bower. Mary Stuart was born in Linlithgow, but was soon carried to Stirling. A few notices of the Chapel may be given from the very complete and accurate account of the Palace by Miss Helen Douglas-Irvine in Royal Palaces of Scotland. In 1408 the Regent Albany endowed a priest who should for ever celebrate 308 Linlithgow Palace masses in the Castle for the souls of the Kings of Scotland. In 141 2 payment is recorded for the construction of a Chapel. In the reign of James the Fourth (1488-15 13), chroniclers give many instances of his piety in offerings in the Chapel, and alms to the poor. In 15 12 his son, afterwards James the Fifth, was born in the Palace, and was probably baptized in the Chapel. " Much was done to the Chapel (in James the Fourth's time) : a ship of timber was used to make for it a roof ; it was completely paved, and masons were employed on the Choir. In the last spring of the reign organs were placed in the Chapel, and bound to the wall with great clasps. Sir David Lindsay boasted that Linlithgow Palace was a pattern to Portugal and France." ^ In 1541 "there is record of a friar who at Linlithgow preached to the young Queen (Mary of Guise), who was ' all papist,' a sermon to extol the authority of the Bishop of Rome, heard by the Bishops of Galloway, Glasgow, and Aberdeen, but by no temporal lords." ^ The Reformation was well on its way in Scotland by that time. In 1746 the Palace was burned, probably by accident, by Hawley's dragoons, a section of the Duke of Cumberland's army, who were quartered within its walls after the battle of Falkirk, and 1 Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 28 1 . ^ Ibid., p. 28 3. 309 The Chapels Royal reduced to its present ruinous position. It appears that the weather was cold, and the soldiers raised enormous fires on the hearths of the different rooms in which they were quartered. Old timbers caught fire, and the conflagration became general. Exactly the same thing had happened at Holyrood in the time of its occupation by the soldiers of Cromwell. Cromwell repaired the damage, and Charles the Second almost rebuilt Holyrood : but Linlithgow remains a ruin. On the death of Queen Victoria, when prominent Scotsmen were debating the best form of memorial to her beloved and revered memory, the patriotism and good taste of Lord Rosebery led him to urge the complete restoration of Linlithgow Palace, as an object acceptable to all Scotland. The proposal seems to have failed of acceptance because such a memorial would be neither in Edinburgh nor Glasgow. 310 XVIII THE CHAPEL ROYAL, FALKLAND PALACE THE CHAPEL ROYAL, FALKLAND PALACE NLY one side of the quadrangle of Falkland Palace remains, and it is of remarkable beauty. It begins with a double gateway tower, like James the Fifth's Tower at Holyrood, and continues in a long fagade of renaissance work which combines features of the English Perpendicular style. The two lost sides must have been similar in character; the fourth was an ornamented wall, with probably a low gateway. The ancient castle of the fourteenth century, the possession of the MacDuffs, Earls of Fife, was probably removed for the new Palace by James the Second, Third, Fourth, or Fifth; for they were all concerned in the buildings of the new Palace. Falkland lies in a hollow on the north side of the Lomond Hills in Fifeshire, and 313 The Chapels Royal occupies a situation of great charm, with grassy park and spreading woods. " It was never adapted for a place of defence, but has much of the character of one of those sunny castles of Touraine, Blois, Amboise, or Chambord, in which Mary of Guise may have passed her youth."' "The lover of art who can tolerate the northern renovation of classical architecture, in the blending of the Palladian with the Gothic and the stunted baronial architecture of Scotland, will find much to enjoy in this fragment." ^ In 1 37 1, Isobel, Countess of Fife, whose second husband was Walter Stewart, second son of King Robert the Second, having no surviving children by any of her four husbands, acknowledged as her heir Robert Stewart, Earl of Menteith, another son of King Robert the Second, and brother to her second husband. Robert, Earl of Menteith, became Duke of Albany, Regent under his feeble brother Robert the Third, and a prominent figure in Scottish history. He is best known to English readers as responsible for the arrest, imprisonment, and murder of his nephew David, Duke of Rothesay, heir to the Scottish Crown, according to the tragedy detailed in The Fair Maid of Perth. It was in the old Castle that the Prince was starved to ^ Murray's Handbook for Scotland, p. 203. ^ Billings' Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland, ii. 314 Falkland Palace death. On the attainder and execution of Albany's son Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Governor of Scot land during part of the time of the captivity of James the First in England, as well as Murdoch's two sons (1425), Falkland reverted to the Crown. In 1453 (the time of James the Second), there is record of wages paid to the choristers of the Chapel of Falkland. , "This is the only docu mentary evidence that a Chapel existed there in the fifteenth century." ^ In 1 50 1, and throughout the next hundred years, regular allowances of corn and barley were received by the priest of the Chapel of the Palace, which contained an altar of St. Thomas, and was dedicated to that saint. The Chapel, which was evidently built by James the Fourth, must have superseded the older foundation. In 151 1 the payment of ;^200 for its fabric, and for that of the vestry, was completed, and in the same year ;^35, 6s. was spent on certain " cuppills, syntreis, and angulars in the Chapel"* (cupolas, centres, and corners). In 1562, Mary Queen of Scots, who had great affection for Falkland, in the month of March, the first spring after her return to Scotland, performed at Falkland the Maunday Thursday service of washing the feet of certain poor persons. In this 1 Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 225. ^ Ibid., p. 230. 315 The Chapels Royal case the persons washed were nineteen maidens.' Mary herself was nineteen. In the reign of James the Sixth, 1625, certain parts of the Palace were said to be much out of repair. The Master of the King's Works was James Murray, and he was ordered thoroughly to repair the Chapel. Miss Douglas-Irvine, the careful authoress of Royal Palaces of Scotland, states that the Chapel appears at this time to have been thoroughly redecorated.^ Falkland was visited both by Charles the First and Charles the Second, but nothing transpires about the Chapel. Cromwell had granted the Palace and Park to Colonel Lockhart of Lee, but it returned to the Crown at the Restoration. A fire in Charles the Second's time destroyed two sides of the quadrangle. Miss Douglas-Irvine quotes Defoe's account of Falkland, when he visited it about 1725 on his tour through Great Britain. " The two sides that still stand in the inner square show a beautiful piece of architecture. It consists of two stories with rows of marble pillars of the Corinthian order, set in sockets of stone between every window; on each side of the window a bust in basso-relievo of the emperors and empresses, and at the top of each pillar a statue as big as ^ Royal Palaces of Scotland, p. 237. ^ Ibid., p. 257. 316 Falkland Palace the life. There are 22 busts and 12 pillars still remaining. You enter this palace by two stately towers, and on the right is a Chapel, still well preserved, with statues as big as the life in the niches on the outside. Here were spacious gardens, with a park well planted with oak, and well stocked with deer, paled round for eight miles." After the Restoration, the Keepership of Falkland and the rents were settled by Charles the Second on John Murray, Earl or Marquis of Atholl. They passed through several hands till they came to an owner named Bruce, who sold them to the late Lord Bute (the lineal representative of a natural son of King Robert the Third), an enthusiastic antiquarian and builder, who did much to restore the Palace, and left it to his second son. Lord Ninian Crich ton-Stuart, M.P. 317 XIX THE CHAPEL ROYAL, DUBLIN CASTLE THE CHAPEL ROYAL, DUBLIN CASTLE ^ HE Chapel Royal, Dublin, is situated in the south corner of the Lower Castle Yard, and is built in the florid style of pointed Gothic architecture. It was erected at a cost of about during the Viceroyalty of the Duke of 1807, Mr. Francis Johnston being architect. The following dedicatory tablet is in the Chapel : — 1 For the information in this chapter I am indebted to the kindness of the Very Rev. R. Godfrey M. Webster, the present Dean of the Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle. X 321 ;^42,000 Bedford, The Chapels Royal Hanc Aedem Deo Optimo Maximo olim dicatam Vetustate penitus dirutam Denuo extrui jussit Johannes, Bedfordiae Dux, Hiberniae Prorex, Ipseque fundamenta posuit, anno a Christo NATO, MDCCCVII. The Chapel of the Castle of Dublin is men tioned as early as 1225, in a close roll of England, from which it appears that William de Radcliffe, then King Henry's Chaplain, received fifty marks as a gift from the Crown. The present Chapel stands behind a large round baronial tower, and has numerous pinnacles, lofty clerestory windows, and two short towers at the farther end. The interior is handsome, with a lofty arcade, groined roof, and woodwork of Irish oak. On the exterior are the heads, in dark blue marble, of the Sovereigns of Great Britain ; over the north door are the heads of St. Peter and Dean Swift ; over the east those of St. Patrick and King Brian Boroimhe. The interior is in length seventy-three feet, and thirty-five feet wide. The carved oak gallery is an important architectural feature. In it, on the south side, is placed the throne of the Lord Lieutenant, with seats for the members of the Household on either side, also for the Chief Secretary. On the 322 Dublin Castle opposite side are the seats for the Bishops, with those for Peers and Peeresses on either hand, also for the Lord Chancellor. Near the Organ Gallery are seats for other secretaries and heads of Govern ment offices. A handsome white stone pulpit was erected by Lord Carlisle when Viceroy ; a beautiful piece of work in itself, but hardly in keeping with the rest of the Chapel. The old pulpit was presented to St. Werbergh's Parish Church, in which parish the Castle is situated. A new organ, constructed in 1900 by Messrs. Gray & Davidson, was erected in the Viceroyalty of Lord Cadogan. It is not large, but its tone is particularly beautiful, and it suits the building well. In recent years the coats of arms of the Viceroy in stained glass have been placed in the centre portions of the great clerestory windows. The Chapel is possessed of most valuable plate, presented by King William in commemoration of his victory at the Boyne. It is silver gilt, and consists of a very large Alms Dish (with embossed representation of the appearance of Christ to the Disciples at Emmaus), a smaller Dish, two Flagons, two Patens, two Chalices, and two large Candle sticks. The Deanery has been held in recent years by 323 The Chapels Royal Dean Tighe, Charles Graves (afterwards Bishop of Limerick), William Connor Magee (afterwards successively Bishop of Peterborough and Arch bishop of York), and Hercules Dickinson, a re markable Irish Churchman during the latter part of the nineteenth century. He died in 1906, and was succeeded by the present Dean, the Very Rev. R. Godfrey M. Webster. Dean Webster was ap pointed Sub-Dean in 1893 by the present Marquis of Crewe, and Dean in 1906 by Lord Dudley. The Lord Lieutenant for the time being has a number of Honorary Chaplains, whose duty it is to preach in the Chapel Royal once in each year. ^^i^ *3 Primii hj Morrison & gibb Limited, Sdlniur(h 08854 0563 ¦¦''•-^S35p5g-;-SS= ill