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A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON

BY
HOWARD PALMER 0 -^

[Reprinted from Appalachia, Vol. XII, No. II.]

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A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON. 123
A New Story about Mount Dawson.
By Howard Palmer.
Almost exactly a decade ago, Apivylachia recorded in a
graphic and entertaining paper,1 the first conquest of this
noble mountain. As the party was led by members of the Ap
palachian Mountain Club, their success gave an added lustre
to tbe Club's name in the West, and it may, therefore, be of
interest to relate briefly some recent experiences had on the
mountain by a party also Appalachian in spirit, though but a
third Appalachian in fact.
Since 1899, when Professors Fay and Parker stood on its
summit, the ascents of Mount Dawson have been few : in 1901
(July 16), Mr. B. S. Comstock of New York accomplished the
feat for the second time, followed by Dr. August Eggers on
September 4 ; in 1902, the Topographical Survey occupied the
peak in the course of its work ; in 1904, Miss Gertrude Benham
of England made the first ascent by a lady. With the exception
of one other, which will be spoken of ih detail later, and our
own, this completes the list, — not a very long one considering
the lapse of time and the prominence of the massif in the range.
Edouard Feuz, Sr., the veteran Swiss guide of the Selkirks,
accompanied all these expeditions, dividing the honors with
Christian Hiisler in that of Professors Fay and Parker, with
F. Michel in the case of Mr. Comstock, and with Karl Schluneg-
gar in that of Dr. Eggers.
The mountain's name and glacier-scarred crags, however, are
familiar to a much greater number, for increasing travel on the
railroad has had its effect even in the remoter places, and visits
to the Asulkan pass, from which Mount Dawson is viewed, per
haps, to best advantage, are frequent. The peak accordingly is,
next to Sir Donald, probably the best known among the loftier
Selkirk summits.
The route adopted by the pioneer party, and used by their
successors, lay almost entirely on the northern flanks of the
mountain. From a bivouac near the tongue of Dawson glacier,
they followed the ice to the head-wall of its amphitheatre, then
ascending this, they advanced over a curious shaly rib to the
1 Appalachia, Vol. IX., Nos. 3 and 4 : The First Ascent of Mount Dawson.

124 A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON.
upper snows, whence the summit was attained by the easterly
arete. In 1908, Professor E. W D. Holway, Mr. Frederick K.
Butters, and the writer, during the course of a week's climbing
in the vicinity, obtained excellent views of this route from adja
cent summits, and it is doubtless the most interesting of any
to be discovered on this side of the range, if the traverse of the
entire massif from Donkin pass be disregarded.
On August 4, our last day before returning to the Glacier
House, we decided to attempt the ascent. Though the dawn
was not propitious and mists billowed darkly about the lofty
crest, occasional beams of sunlight and a steady barometer
were encouraging signs, and we left camp at 5.30 A. M. The
bergschrund was passed without difficulty, but the head-wall,
with its slimy, sliding shale that might readily precipitate one
into the gaping schrund below, proved somewhat troublesome.
Above this, however, came easy going again until the shaly
arete disappeared beneath the upper neve. Here we encountered
ice that forced us to cut nearly a hundred steps, — a most unus
ual number for the Selkirks, where in two seasons' work among
the higher peaks, we have found only occasional reaches of
from ten to twenty steps necessary, and these most often upon
glaciers. On the snow dome between Mount Dawson and Mount Sel
wyn, we crossed several wide crevasses, the ordinary indications
of which were entirely concealed by a mantle of new snow.
When we reached the top, clouds still obscured Mount Dawson's
final peak, so rather than lose the view, we turned to the left
toward Mount Selwyn, whose summit, though but a bare hun
dred feet less in altitude, the hurrying mists just grazed. We
crept along a rock wall, then over a narrow ridge of snow, and
finally made the pinnacle over tilted broken slabs.
From the stone-man we extricated a bottle containing the
names of Miss Gertrude Benham and Ed. Feuz, Sr., who had
effected the last ascent on September 6, 1904. We added our
own and then replaced it. While lunching, a fairly extensive
prospect was vouchsafed us, though the distant features of the
landscape were indistinct.
After about an hour we made our way down the southern
face by means of a snow-filled groove that led from a nick in the

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A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON. 125
summit arete directly to the Deville glacier. Its upper portion
appears in Plate XIX. The bergschrund delayed us somewhat,
but once across, the going was easy. We kept to the right
and rounded the shoulder of Mount Dawson into the defile of
Bishops glacier, which we followed to a point beneath Donkin
pass. Crossing this and descending the further ice-fall of Don-
kin glacier, we regained our route of the morning on the Dawson
moraine, thus completing a circuit around the four Dawson peaks
in one day. Camp was reached at 8.30 p. m., after an absence
of fifteen hours.
Having in this manner obtained a fairly good working know
ledge of the mountain as a whole, and particularly of the usual
route, in 1909 the same party desired to try something differ
ent, even if of less technical interest. Accordingly we planned
to attempt an ascent from the south, and to this end carried
an outfit over both the Asulkan and Donkin passes to a spot
on the westerly flanks of the Bishops Range (formerly the
Mitre Range), where we set up a base camp at 6300 feet. From
here the southern face was directly accessible, and we counted
on working our way up it from the Bishops glacier, joining the
ordinary route on the summit ridge.
But Mount Dawson was only one of the climbs that we hoped
to accomplish in the vicinity. Our strongest efforts were to be
directed towards capturing the virgin summits of Mount Kil
patriok and Mount Augustine, but we felt that in the event
of failure on either of these, such an ascent of Dawson would
prove no mean consolation. Eventually, we determined to try
for the consolation first, both because we apparently needed
to fortify ourselves in every possible way for Augustine, and
because the crags of Dawson would afford the best place for
studying the peak's northern face.
Accordingly, we started for Dawson on July 21, the second
day after ascending Kilpatrick. It was a glorious morning, and
our party of three set out from camp at 7.15. A crisp breeze,
blowing down from the glacier, made our cheeks tingle as we
wended our way over the frosted meadows, dotted with pink
and white heather. A short quarter of an hour served to bring
us to the ice and the usual unpleasant preliminary scrambling
along the terminal moraine. Beyond, however, we made rapid

126

A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON.

progress over the smooth snow-covered glacier1 which stretched
away a mile or more to the base of the peak. We directed our
course towards the great shoulder that makes out into the defile
from the mountain's precipitous face, and by the gentler gradi
ent of its ridge reduces the average steepness. This we hoped
to attain by way of the slope descending towards us nearly at
right angles to the trend of the mountain. A previous view from
Mount Cyprian 2 encouraged us to believe that we should find
good going the remaining distance to the summit. Mount Daw
son on this side resembles a steep-sided, wedge-shaped pinna
cle set high upon a relatively large base.
When sufficiently near, we saw that the shoulder belonged to
the type of slab or plate construction, with the cleavage running
at about the inclination of the slope and forming smooth reaches
intersected by cracks and narrow ledges loaded with scree. An
easy scramble over talus brought us to this portion, where ad
vance became comparatively difficult. Though the slabs were
only inclined at about 45s, the slope was of that tantalizing
description that is just too steep to walk up. Still, we man
aged to push ahead, now digging out a foothold in a crevice,
now sliding across a narrow crack, now crawling on all-fours
up some smooth gully. Here and there on conspicuous rocks
we set up little cairns to mark our route, for a slope which one
has ascended even a few hours before is likely to present a
strange aspect when seen from above on returning later in
the day. A half-day's swing of the sun will do much towards
throwing one out of one's way, because of the change in the
shadows. In a little more than an hour after leaving the glacier, the
gradient became gentler, and shortly we found ourselves on the
broad rock-strewn back of the shoulder. It was about a quarter
of a mile square and sloped grandly up to the crags of the
peak's southeastern arete. We sat down for a few moments to
enjoy our second breakfast and the splendid alpine picture pre
sented by the Bishops Range across the valley to the south. It
1 For views of Bishopa glacier, Mount Cyprian,and Mount Dawson, see Appa-
lachia, Vol. X., pages 123 and 12S, and Plates SFH-. and 3^. of this volume.
2 Plate XIX. This view was taken August 12, 11108, from col (9500 feet) west
of Cyprian; that shown in Plate XV. of Vol. X. was taken September 12, 1902,
shortly after a four days' storm.

APPALACHIA, VOL. XII.

Plate XXI

WESTERN SELKIRKS AND BISHOPS GLACIER. FROM "THE SHOULDER.
NAMELESS, MICHEL, AND FEUZ PEAKS FROM BISHOPS CAMP.

APPALACHIA, VOL. XII

Plate XXII.

MOUNTS BONNEY AND SWANZY FROM BASE OF PINNACLE.
LOOKING SOUTH FROM SUMMIT OF MT. DAWSON,
From photographs by Howard Palmer.

A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON. 127
was as exquisite a display of frowning cliff, rifted glacier, and
dazzling snow-field as one could desire, though, withal, a some
what discouraging one to the prospective climber. Eastward we
could see the Deville neve" with its rocky rim beyond.
As we followed the edge of the shoulder towards the peak, it
became considerably steeper, and the rock gave place to snow.
Luckily this was in good condition, so that we were able to
kick steps in spite of the ever-increasing acclivity. Eventually,
at about 10,000 feet, we reached the middle one of the three
curiously converging ribs that descend from the eastern ex
tremity of the peak. In some places it barely projected above
the snow, but for the most part was submerged. This made it
rather awkward, for the early afternoon sun was rapidly reduc
ing the snow to a semi-liquid consistency. Frequently we sank
in to our waists, and only by vigorous packing could we obtain
even a precarious foothold. The next rib to the left was entirely
uncovered, so we determined to cross the intervening strip of
snow in the hope of finding it an easier route. However, when
we had waded half-way over, we were forced to turn back for
fear that the mass would avalanche bodily over the cliffs below.
Several miniature streams of hissing snow had already slipped
down near us, showing that this sentiment was not entirely
groundless. Returning to the central rib, which at least possessed the ad
vantage of safety, we continued to plough upward from rock to
rock along it, though a cliff above warned us that we must event
ually find another way. By 12.30 we attained an elevation of
about 10,700 feet without noting any chance of improving our
route. It was rather discouraging to see our goal so near, with
the odds so strongly against our reaching it. However, we kept
doggedly on, hoping against hope that something would turn up
to allow us to accomplish the apparently impossible. Luckily,
we were not disappointed. Kind fortune smiled upon us in the
form of one of those happy chances that so often save the day
for the mountaineer in a moment of despair. Just below the
summit ridge, we found a place where the snow, though soft,
would furnish some footing. We might now cross the gully and
make it after all! By stepping with greatest care, we finally
reached the rib that we had tried to gain before. It was steep,

128 A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON.
but still practicable for a slow advance. Presently a chimney
offered an easier passage, and our leader gradually worked^his
way upward. When he emerged, he stepped out on to the arete.
Victory at last ! The summit was as good as won, for we knew
that here our steps joined those of our predecessors.
We follow the chisel-edged grat, now gingerly balancing on
a narrow crest of snow, now crawling up some tilted slab. A
curling cornice cuts off our view directly downward into the
abyss on the right, but the tremendous expanse of country
visible gives ample proof of our exalted position. Soon we reach
the final pinnacle.1 Here the cornice ends, and for a moment,
while turning a corner, we are suspended dizzily on the northern
face with glimpses of the Dawson glacier appearing between our
feet as we climb. Presently we attain the topmost rocks, and
Dawson's crest is once more linked to civilization.
It was 2 p. M. on an ideal day. A few fleecy clouds drifted
slowly above us, matching in their purity the ice world at our
feet and casting entrancing shadows on peak and glacier. We
felt as if suspended in mid- air, so vast was the extent of coun
try commanded, — a veritable sea of snow-capped summits sweep
ing away ridge on ridge, until lost in the dreamy distance. Here
and there, some mammoth mass reared his glacier-scarred head
above the others, walled with mighty precipices.
Eleven thousand one hundred and thirteen feet above sea-
level, our resting-place possessed the distinction of being the
highest climbed summit in the whole Selkirk chain, — only one
higher being known, — Mount Sandford towering boldly in the
north. To the east, beyond Mount Selwyn, the slope dropped
away abruptly into Glacier circle, — a gloomy, rock-walled gorge
opening into the still deeper expanse of Beaver Valley, seven
thousand feet beneath us, where now and then the silver thread
of Beaver River gleamed in the sunlight. Further off over the
Prairie Hills we noted the depression of the Columbia River
valley, with the great rampart of the Rockies beyond extending
far to the north. But any enumeration of even the principal
features of such a panorama would transgress the limits of my
space and be out of order as well, for after a few hasty glances
about us, we turned our attention to the baser things contained
1 See Plate XXIII.

APPALACHIA, VOL. XII.

FINAL PINNACLE OF MT. DAWSON.
CORNICED SUMMIT OF THE SAME.
From photographs by Howard Palmer,

A NEW STORY ABOUT MOUNT DAWSON. 129
in our rucksacks that particularly delight the inner man after
a toilsome climb.
We found two stone-men rather in need of repair and what
looked like a third partially buried in snow, but a careful search
revealed only the following record in the shape of a card en
closed in an envelope marked " Mt. Dawson — Edward Fran-
zelin : " — July 8, 1908.
MR. EDWARD FRANZELIN
BRENNECK, TIROL,
Alone. AUSTRIA.
The reverse read : —
Off camp on Dawson Glacier
in 7000 El. at 1 : 15 A. m.
On summit at 5 : 45 a. m.
going towards Feuz Peak.
This traverse of the four peaks of Mount Dawson alone is per
haps the most remarkable feat of mountaineering yet achieved in
the Canadian Alps, involving as it did a three days' absence
from the hotel and the accomplishment of a trip never previ
ously attempted. It is safe to say that this gentleman's record
for four days in the Selkirks will not be equalled for some time
to come. It runs as follows : —
"6th July, Mt. Sir Donald ; 7th July, Asulkan Pass, Dawson Gla
cier ; 8th July, Hasler Peak, Feuz Peak, Michel Peak (of Mt. Daw
son), Donkin Pass; 9th July, Dawson Glacier, Asulkan Pass, Glacier
House." 1
For our own data we built a smaller cairn near the others
and wedged in it a circular aluminum plate with the initials of
the party and the date. The barometer showed an ascent of
4800 feet from camp, making our altitude only thirteen feet
less than that given the mountain by triangulation. It may be
worth while to state, in view of the varying descriptions2 of the
crest of Mount Dawson given by different persons who have
1 Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. II., p. 141.
2 Wheeler, Selkirk Range, Vol. I., p. 336 and note.

made the ascent, that Hasler peak does not possess two sum
mits, but is a long, practically level ridge, with the stone-men
on the highest part. Feuz peak is much further off, noticeably
lower, and severed from it by a deep gap.
At 3 P. M. we started back, reversing the morning's route. On
the snow curtain where we had kicked steps we reversed meth
ods as well, deeming it wise to descend the ladder-like slope
backwards, securely roped. The angle approximated 60° for a
short distance. Camp was reached at dusk, and we felt well
satisfied that with our former ascents of Mounts Donkin and
Selwyn, we had now done " the Dawson Range from end to
end."