Perkins, Nathan A narrative of a tour through the state of Vermont from April E7 to June 12, 1789. \%>odatook,Vt.,1920. - ' tirt ¦':— _• REV. PERKINS IN VERMONT 1 789 REV. NATHAN PERKINS AND WIFE A NARRATIVE OF A TOUR THROUGH THE STATE OF VERMONT FROM APRIL 27 TO JUNE 12 1789 BY THE REVd NATHAN PERKINS OF HARTFORD " I have zealouily & uniformly endeavoured to hold up ye truth plainly — to alarm y<= Conscience:— to inform y« judgement & to engage ye heart." THE ELM TREE PRESS ELM STREET WOODSTOCK VERMONT 1920 Copyright, 1920 Geo. Bird Grinnell FOREWORD Nathan Perkins was born in 1 749 and was graduated from Princeton College in 1 770. He was fifth in descent from John Perkins, who reached Boston on the ship Lyon in February, 1631, and afterwards settled in Ipswich. In the year 1774 Nathan Perkins received from Yale the honorary degree S. T. D., and in 1 80 1 from Princeton that of D. D. For more than sixty-five years he was pastor of the Third Church of West Hartford, Connecticut, and was greatly beloved and looked up to by his parishioners. He was considered one of the most eminent Divines of his day. He married Catherine Pitkin, daughter of Rev. Timothy Pitkin and Temperance Clap, who was the daughter of the Rev. Thomas Clap, for many years President of Yale College, and of Mary Whiting. A son, also Nathan Perkins, born in Hartford, graduated from Yale in the Class of 1 795, and for many years preached at Amherst, Mass. His daughter, Eliza, born in the year 1 800, married Hon. George Grinnell, of Greenfield, Mass. This narrative is a diary and expresses freely its author's views of conditions in the new settlements and of the people he met. As a diary, written merely for his own eye, it is hardly open to criticism. Yet its frankness makes it amusing, and, apart fiom its historical value, it is a human document of no little interest. The writer was a keen judge of men and women, and recog nized and admired the courage and endurance of the settlers of the new country, their kindliness and helpfulness to each other, and, above all, the splendid self sacrifice of the wives of these settlers. To these fine qualities he pays high tribute. [5] The route he followed may be traced on any map of West ern New England. It led through Connecticut and Massachu setts up through Western Vermont, about as far as Burlington, and the return was over the same route. At one point he en tered New York and passed through the town of Hampton in that state. Just what was the bloody battle fought during the French War on the banks of the La Platte River seems uncertain. The river is a small stream running into Shelbume Bay just south of Burlington Bay. The original manuscript of the narrative is in my possession. G. B. G. A Narrative of a Tour through the State of Vermont in the year 1 789 — from April 27 — to June 12 to preach ye Gos pel to the New Settlements in that State by the Rev^ Nathan Perkins of Hartford appointed by ye Association of Hartford County at the instance & request of the General Association of Connecticut. 5 13 115 April 27 I left Hartford and set out for Vermont. Took leave of my family, a tender Companion & five dear Children, with painful reluctance, & an anxious heart. I affectionately recommended them to the pro tection & care of a kind Providence, influenced by ye Call of duty & Conscience. I reached Symsbury by one O'clock & dined with ye Rev1* Mr. Stebbins ; not pre pared to receive Company glad to see me, & we dis coursed on Divinity, politics & my journey. Two O'clock P. M. mounted my horse — rode on as usual a slow pace, contemplating every surrounding object — amusing myself with ye works of nature, ye season — ye state of agriculture & rusticity of y= people's manners. — Dear travelling. — No hay. — no oats. My horse deeply grieved. About Sun-set arrived at the Revd Mr. Clinton's of South wick; procured horse- keeping with a neighbour of his. 2 s per night. Mr. Clinton Out, but soon comes home ; I had already in troduced myself to Mrs. Clinton. She was just getting up from Child-bed ; not very polished nor used to [9] Company : thought her boy ye finest in ye world — most beautiful — most sprightly — most promising. I smiled & Chesterfield-like bestowed some compliments to please ye vanity of parental fondness. Innocent pleasantry! — She introduced me to her husband. — A Man of moderate abilities & moderate acquirements. — The evening passed in dulness & insipidity. Poor Supper — wretched breakfast — tea paler than water — Sugar heavier than lead. I then began to experience that hard & coarse fare which, wasted away my flesh in ye progress of my travels & made me often, often re gret my tour, how often have I remembered home — a table richly furnished, & elegantly set — food dressed, in ye neatest & best manner. - - - - Tuesday 28 of April, 8 o'clock A. M. Set out for Westfield. Reached Revd Mr. Atwater's, a sensible, agreable man — an ingenious and cunning philosopher. Showed me his garden — his nursery of English & Italian Mulberries — ye former cut off & set out like prim-hedge — ye latter sowed as peas, & raised from ye seed. Talked a few minutes on important Subjects & left him loaded with his best wishes. — Went on to Westfield mountains with a heavy heart. — The mountains as bad riding as they well could be — 2 O'clock P. M. came to Revd Mr. Badger's, of Blan- ford. He absent — his wife old-poor-homely-kind. four years older than her husband, & courted him — helped to defray ye expenses of his Education by her [10] own industry. A very poor dinner — bad bread — no sauce — no elegance or good Cookery. 3 O'Clock journeyed to Becket. About 6 O'clock reached my Brothers & was richly & sumptuously entertained. — Wednesday 10 O'Clock left his house, one of ye best in ye Country. Dined with Revd Mr. Balantine of Washington — a poor town, & a disgrace to ye ex alted name which it bears — cold land — bad for grain — good for grass — came to Mr. Moses Steales. They were overjoyed to see me — ready to eat me up with love and kindness. Wished, & wished, I could preach there, that they might see ye house once crowded, & that ye people might know what preaching was. Left Washington, Wednesday, 4 o'clock, & reached Pits- field about Sun-set. Put up at Mr. Allyn's, ye presby- terian Minister, of ye town. Introduced myself to him. He is a sociable man, — awkard in his manners, — a handsome woman for his wife, — an infant at ye breast, yc 1 1 Child, all living. Poor Cookery, — no elegance, — common fare, — bad house-keeping. Mr. Allyn dises- teemed by his people : a pleasant town, — a few good buildings near ye Centre, a small meeting house, — few people attend public worship, — loose morals, — loose principles,— good land, — no good fencing timber ; — 200 families scattered over ye town, — quite as many as can live there. Thursday, 8 o'clock A. M, — pro ceeded on my journey with ye good wishes of ye gen tleman, I left : came to Lainsborough, 6 miles, a good Ml] township of land,— pleasant,— thick settled, for so young a place — many emigrated from it. People not very civilized. Called on Revd Mr. Collins — from home he was. His wife uncommonly glad to see me. — a woman of ambition & pride — a daughter of y* same properties ; very sociable. — there I had an inter view with Revd Mr. Buckminster of Rutland — a grave well-behaved aged man. Mr. Collins happy with his people, enjoys their confidence & esteem. Went on to Ashford & to Williamstown — broken, mountainous Country — exceedingly unpleasant — Mountains lofty indeed — above yE clouds — good land in ye Vallies. 1 5 miles — came to Revd Mr. Swift's, poor house — poor living — no luxury — no elegance — gloomy wo man for his wife — he epileptic, but kind — native sense, but no acquaintance with books — Williams town ye northwest town in ye Common Wealth of Massachusetts. — Friday entered ye State of Vermont — a bad appearance at y* entrance, Pawnal ye first town, poor land — very unpleasant — very uneven — miserable set of inhabitants — no religion, Rhode Is land haters of religion — baptists, quakers, & some presbyterians — no meeting house. — Friday came to Bennington 6 miles — Capitol at present of Vermont — a good town of land, people, proud — scornful — con ceited & somewhat polished — small meeting house — considerably thick-settled, as many, as can possibly get a living; — no stone; — no fencing timber; — some elegant [12] building ; — a County town ; — a tolerable Court-house & jail; — a good grammar school. The Revd Mr. Swift their Minister, ye Apostle of Vermont — well esteemed among his own people, & in ye State, at large ; put up at his house : — he not at home ; gone over to ye College. — his wife handsome, — serious, — weakly, — Lawyer Segwick's sister, — ten children one at ye breast, — two daughters grown up, homely, — un polished, — countrified in manners, and without any elegance. Visited Judge Robinson, — Chief justice of ye State. A man of sense & of religion, rich & un commonly dutiful to an aged Mother, eminent for her attainments in goodness. Saturday May ye Second, rode to Shaftsbury — Saw ye hill where ye Benning ton battle was fought, six miles from ye town, — a bat tle which will be greatly celebrated in ye history of America. Called on Elder Blood of Shaftsbury, — a baptist Minister of a public education, — candid & sup ported as presbyterian Ministers are, — lives low,— poor ; — wife old, — ordinarily looking ; — serious and very dirty —A good township of land : — passed on to Aldington, — An episcopal Church there, — a very rough, uneven, hilly poor town, ye present governor of ye State resided there during ye war, in a very indif ferent house. The noted Shays & his family live here, in great poverty & obscurity. Went on to Sunderland, called on Col. Timothy Brownson one of ye Council of ye State, was treated with hospitality — ye family [13] kind, but destitute of all taste & polish. 1 Sabbath in May, preached at Sunderland, in a barn, to a consid erable audience, very attentive & much affected, re ceived much applause; a raving arminian methodist preached in ye Evening ; Here lived formerly ye awful Deist Ethan Allyn, — so known in Vermont, who de lighted in calling himself ye old philosopher. In his house now lives a quaker from Long Island, with a young girl from Seabrook whom he seduced, though a married man, a picture of beauty & elegance. Sab bath Evening went to Major Brownson, rich & kind & generous, — keeps 70 head of Cattle. — Monday 3 of May journeyed to Manchester, half shire town hemmed in by lofty mountains, a number of houses in ye center, — a small meeting house, half baptists, — loose town, — called on Mr. Elias Gilbert, a serious man ; — visited ye house of Col. Keyes, his wife gone out on a visit ; — he, in Canada, rafting lumber — Went on to Dor set, called on Rev. Mr. Sill, a good friendly man, ex tremely poor — poor looking family, — poor land, — got some directions of him, as to my route, — passed to Pol- let, through Rupert, called on Revd Mr. Bebee, a serious man, who left honor & ye prospects of wealth for ye Gospel, sensible, of little reading, — of narrow senti ments,— a weakly wife, a poor hut,— a friendly heart, — mean victuals,— destitute of neatness. Wednesday 5th May, set out from Pollet, for Middletown, preach ed at one Reed's in a dark room — to a small collec- [14] tion of people, chiefly Connecticut Separates, very ser ious & attentive, put up at Mr. Minor's, a kind man,— a kind wife, — wretched fare, — wretched bed, — eat up with flees, — no hay, — my horse starving. — Thursday journeyed to Tinmouth, & preached, at Mr. Porter's, one of ye Council of ye State, — his wife a most pious woman, — a few people very much affected with my sermon. Friday 8th day of May, heavy snow.— I went to judge Mattock's, — was kindly received. He is treasurer of ye State. Saturday went to Clarindon — to Elihu Smiths esq, — a rich man, — a great boaster, — a fine farm on ye otter Creek, preached 2 Sabbath in May at his house, — yc people of Wallingford met with Clarindon, very attentive. I fared badly at Clarindon, & my horse worse, here I had an Interview with ye Revd Mr. Swift of Bennington, & Mr. Marsh, Master of Bennington Academy. Monday 9th May, — went to Rutland on ye Otter-Creek, a County town, con siderably settled, called on Mr. Williams Esq, and was introduced to Dr. Williams from Cambridge, Massa chusetts, late professor of philosophy there, but was guilty of forgery & resigned, — a well looking & a learned man — a good speaker, lofty & haughty in his air — & preaching there, to my surprise, elevated with y= idea of having a College there. — Lodged at Mr. Flints in Brandon, — meanest of all lodging, — dirty, — fleas without number. May 1 0th rode to Leicester & put up at Col. Sawyers, & Wednesday preached a Lec- [15] ture, at his house, & baptised a child for him, — a rough, violent, savage man, — extraordinary spot in na ture for Mills, & a pond by his door, where he raises fish. Thursday rode to Middlebury, — to Major Chip- man's— to Mr. Smally's & to Mr. Fleide's preached a lecture at Mr. Thayer's to a considerable of an au dience, — they were all attention, next day, rode to Mr. foote's, stayed all night, a high tempered, boastful man, conceited, vulgar, — & highly inelegant, in ye house. — Next day to New Haven, — preached at a log house, — people serious & anxious to hear ye word. — I was greatly worried & fatigued with riding, — poor living, nothing but brook water to drink, — & no com fortable victuals, — my nature almost exhausted, — went to Mr. Cooke's in New-haven, friday & Saturday morning nine o'Clock, preached, in a log house, & ye people wonderfully attentive. Slept, in an open log house, where it rained on me, in ye night, & no keep ing for my horse. Saturday 1 6th of May rode on after preaching to Moreton, — Pocock — mud belly deep to my horse, & I thought I should have perished : felt warm gratitude to heaven that my life was spared,— my health & strength continued, through such hardships & unwholesome food, — arrived just at night at Mr. Steeles my old parishioner, — was cordially welcome, & gratefully received at Hinsburgh.— preached 3th Sab bath in May, at his house,— a large audience for ye wilderness, & deeply attentive. He lives well. Land [16] good — gathered ye church & organized them on Wednesday, preached a lecture & baptized a Child for Mr. Elisha Steele. Thursday 20 of May set out for Williston where governor Chittenden lives. — baptised five children, rode through ye woods, 1 4 miles, y*5 rid ing as bad as it could be, almost half of ye trees in ye woods blown down by ye violence of ye wind last year. Came to one Deacon Talcotts and he accom panied me to his Excellency's Governor Chittenden's. A low poor house. — a plain family — low, vulgar man, clownish, excessively parsimonious, — made me wel come, — hard fare, a very great farm, — 1 000 acres, — hundred acres of wheat on ye onion river — 200 acres of extraordinary interval land. A shrewd cunning man — skilled in human nature & in agriculture — under stands extremely well yc mysteries of Vermont, appa rently and professedly serious. Williston a fine town ship of land, — soil fertile. And all ye towns upon ye lake Champlain & for three teer back ye best sort of land. Not very heavy timbered, or stony or mountainous, well intersected with streams, & y"5 streams full of small fish. — Two noted streams ye Otter-Creek and ye onion river — About 300 towns in the State of Ver mont — 6 miles square — about 40 of ye towns upon ye green mountains — very cold — snow upon ye top of them till June; commonly — good grazing land about half way up ye green mountains — they almost end at latitude 44 1 -2 — I go up as far as there are any Settle- [17] ments large enough to gather a Congregation — within thirty miles of Canada line — days perceiveably longer — in reality 20 minutes longer. Moose plenty on yc mountains over against Jericho, Essex & Colchester — people hunt them — eat them in lieu of beef — & get their tallow. Bears & wolves plenty — timber, beach, — maple, — pine, hemlock, cherry, — birch & some oak and Walnut — about as many as 40 families, in a town, upon an average, about 40 towns totally un settled — land extraordinarily good — from Rutland & Tinmouth clear to Canada line. Curiosities of ye country — ye innumerable high mountains 3 & 4 miles up them — I — 1-2 perpendicular. — covered with snow now three feet in depth — Lime stone in abundance scattered every where, but no good building stone — a lime pit of two acres in Sunderland — the lower end of ye State poor compared to ye North end — narrow & rough, — No cheese any where — no beef — no but ter — I pine for home — for my own table. — Words cannot describe ye hardships I undergo, or ye strength of my desire to see my family — & to be with them. How affectionately do I remember them, hundreds of times every day, & shed a tear, in ye woods — got lost twice in ye woods already — heard y* horrible howling of ye wolves. Far absent — in ye wilderness — among all strangers — all alone — among log-huts — people nasty — poor — low-lived — indelicate — and mis erable cooks. All sadly parsimonious — many, profane [18] — yet cheerful & much more contented than in Hart ford — and the women more contented than ye men — turned tawny by ye smoke of ye log-huts — dress coarse, & mean, & nasty, & ragged. — Some very clever women & men — serious & sensible. Scarcely any politeness in ye State — Scarcely any sensible preaching — will soon settle Ministers in most of ye towns — and in a few years be a good Country, plea sant, & well to live in. — Some of our Ministers from Connecticut disesteemed, because injudicious — about one tenth part of y6 State quakers & anabaptists — Episcopalians, and universalists ; & a 1-4 deists. The body of ye people will be like Connecticut — & ye land, take it together rather preferable to ye land in our State — rather more feasible. A great advantage to my character, usefulness & honour coming from ye Centre & Capital of Connecticut. They conceived a high opinion of my abilities & address, at first, merely from ye above circumstance of place. They were far better pleased than I could even imagine with my per formances compared with Mr. Williston's — Mr. Day's — Mr. Hawley's, Mr. Bogal's & others. They were charmed with my sermons & my delivery ; & bestow ed encomiums which it would be vain in me to repeat, — Such as ye very first-rate — philosophical — Deep — penetrating — a great Scholar — angelic — The angel Gabriel could not go before him — no wonder his people admire him, and such-like praises. I felt [19] oppressed with shame — & humility. Such things do not elevate me. I am above them & have a higher end. I have zealously & uniformly endeavoured to hold up ye truth plainly — to alarm ye Conscience; — to inform ye judgment & to engage ye heart; — exhorted; — ad monished; — comforted; — & done all I could, in con versation, as well as, Sermons, to give ye nature of true Religion ; — to impress its duties ; to guard from errors ; — from superstition & enthusiasm ; — to make ye Gos pel appear lovely & glorious. I trust my Evangelical Tour will be greatly beneficial to as many as about 50 towns — improving to myself — I see ye mighty works of Diety — ye hard fate of New Settlers — ye grounds, abundant grounds of gratitude for ye elegancies of my own house, situation & living, — & ye awful & deep criminality of all complaint, — peevishness & ingratitude. My living & situation is a paradise compared to Ver mont: — far: — far happier than any I have seen. — O how happy ! happy am I at home. I will study to be more contented, — more serene, — more thankful. And to make my family so. When I go from hut to hut, from town to town, in ye Wilderness, ye people noth ing to eat, — to drink, — or wear, — all work, & yet ye women quiet, — serene, — peaceable, — contented, lov ing their husbands, — their home, — wanting never to re turn,— nor any dressy clothes ; I think how strange ! — I ask myself are these women of ye same species with our fine Ladies ? tough are they, brawny their limbs, — [20] their young girls unpolished — & will bear work as well as mules. Woods make people love one another & kind & obliging and good natured. They set much more by one another than in ye old settlements. Leave their doors unbarred. Sleep quietly amid flees — bed- buggs — dirt & rags. O how vile, — how guilty, — how ungrateful to providence are our women ! tell lies about one another — envy one another — go abroad, dress & enjoy fine roads — carriages husbands to wait on them — & are yet uneasy — unaffectionate ! Could they see — Could my Lady so agreeable & pleasant to me, only see & endure what I have, how contented — how easy — how thankful would she be ! she would feel a rapt ure of devotion & gratitude to heaven for our happy lot. — Every time she goes to meeting, or abroad, — or ascends ye Chaise, she would feel her enviable lot. No words can describe ye pleasing situation, when con trasted with almost all ye world ! How have I longed to see another pleasing Sabbath at home ! — I have rode more than 1 00 miles and seen no meeting house ! — I can now realize what our forefathers suffered in set tling America ! — I grieve to hear what thousands & thousands have endured — women & Children in com ing to this State bf Vermont. — One thing is now deep ly affecting. The frowns of ye Almighty are on this State for their sins. The seasons have been for two years back very unfavorable. A famine is now felt in this land. I have heard.— I have read of famines, but [21] never saw one before, or was in y® midst of one. the year 1 789 will be remembered by Vermont as a day of calamity and famine — dearness of truck & want of bread in all their dwellings. It is supposed by ye most judicious & knowing that more than 1 -4 part of ye peo ple will have neither bread nor meat for 8 weeks — and that some will starve. How affecting ye idea ! I have mourned with ye inhabitants. Several women I saw had lived four or five days without any food, and had eight or ten Children starving around them — crying for bread & ye poor women had wept till they looked like Ghosts. Many families have lived for weeks on what y8 people call Leeks — a sort of wild onion — very offensive to me — it poisons all ye milk & Butter of ye new settlements, while ye Cows go in ye woods. — I perform this day 22th Saturday ye office of physi cian & nurse to Mrs. Chittenden who is very sick with a disorder called, St. Anthony's fire. Miss Leita Chittenden, ye young Lady 1 6 years old, & I, nurse together. They seem to love me, as a brother, & y*5 Governor as a son. I struck them upon ye right key. — Queer is human nature & has a blind side. His Excel lency picked me out to understand human nature, at first sight. He laughed about some of my zealous Con necticut brethren Particularly Mr. Williston. The whole Country of Vermont will in process of time, be extremely difficulted to fence their Land. There is no such good fencing timber as in Connecticut. Stone- [22] wall can never be made. The mountains are rocky, but too steep to carry ye stone into ye Vallies. Satur day — 2 O Clock P — M. quite home-sick today.— Vermont will not be a grain Country after a few years. Not a wheat — or rye — or Indian corn Coun try, particular spots excepted. Nor a very good Coun try for Orchards. I suffer as much for ye want of drink as any thing. Brook-water is my chief drink. The maple cyder is horrible stuff — no malt in ye Country. — Their beer poor bran beer. — Visited about 50 new towns, preached about 6 days in seven. — Had a numerous Assembly at Williston, people of Jericho and Essex came to hear me & Josiah Steele from Hinsburg 1 4 miles ; preached in a barn of Col. Spafford's 1 00 feet long. Audience peculiarly attentive, opposed Deism in my discourse ; ventured to speak much from rising circumstances, without writing & have always found a very great freedom. Sabbath Evening left his Excellency's & and went over Onion River to Jericho — a deep stream and wide, swam my horse over — Put up at Deacon Roade's a pious man — had no comfortable refreshment — was almost starv ed because I could not eat ye coarse fare provided for me — no candles pine splinters used in lieu of them — bed poor & full of flees — Monday 25 rode out 4 miles into ye wilderness & preached in a log house to a number of people who were deeply effected — & baptised three Children, & conversed much on religious [23] subjects. 10 O Clock A. M. — dined with Lewis Chapin where I preached — a sensible serious man & his wife exceedingly amiable. When I took leave of them She wept heartily & shook hands with me affec tionately & left a quarter of a dollar in my hand — and did it with a grace & politeness. His Excellency also at parting with me, in Jericho, where he accom panied me — bid me farewell & shook hands with me, & left a dollar in my hand. — Monday afternoon rode 6 miles to Essex, a terrible rode, & lodged with Tim othy Bliss, Esq — a kind, serious & curteous family. Tuesday morning very much fatigued for all yc preceed- ing evening, people came in to see me & I talked till I was so tired that I could not sleep — A sister of Dr. Hopkins of Hartford lives there, a sensible woman — rode from Mr. Bliss's 4 miles & preached at Mr. Mor gan's. A horrible rode. There I gathered & incorpo rated a Church, & admitted a member, and drew ye form of Covenant. The people deeply affected. Tears flowed plentifully — all affected, young people, & Chil dren & myself. — Here my horse got away & steered for Hartford, he had undergone hardships enough he thought. — 3 O Clock P M — accompanied by Mr. Bliss Esq — Set out for Colchester — Burlington & Shelburn. — Arrived at Onion-river falls & passed by Ethan Allyn's grave. An awful Infidel, one of ye wick edest men y* ever walked this guilty globe. I stopped & looked at his grave with a pious horror. — Rode on [24] to Burlington Bay — one of ye most delightful places in nature. — Passed over Colchester-bridge, one of ye greatest curiosities of Vermont — ye Bridge about sixty feet from ye ground on two high rocks on each bank, where all ye waters of ye onion river are compressed into a narrow space of 40 feet. — From Burlington Bay, I set out alone unaccompanied to Shelburn through ye wilderness on ye Lake Champlain — next to no rode — mud up to my horse's belly — roots thick as they could be, no house for 4 miles. — I got lost. My horse nearly gave out, excessively worried with ye bad travelling. O how anxious was I ! I expected every step to be killed. — I was hungry, dry, had been almost exhausted by labours in preaching, conversing & gathering a Church. — How much would I have given to have been at home — to have seen my dear wife & children. It seemed as if I never should have ye pleasure again to see them. Night come on — I could travel no farther — I found a little log hut & put up there. Could get no supper — my horse no feed — Slept on a Chaff-bed without covering — a man, his wife & 3 children all in ye same nasty stinking room. — rose by sun-rise Wednesday morning 26 of May — travelled through ye woods, crossed ye River de Plate about two miles from ye mouth — a river so called from a bloody battle fought on its banks between ye french & English ; — passed an ugly swamp & found Mr. Smith's Esq 9 O Clock A. M. Got breakfast & [25] am homesick enough — ye woman agreeable — has another husband alive — he ran away from her & was gone 1 3 years, because of debt. She says, She loved him dearly, but has gotten her affections now entirely weaned. Last winter she & her present husband acci- denttally met him on ye rode. And ye sight of him gave her no uneasiness any more than to see another man. At Burlington Bay Col. Stephen Keyes whipped bruised & almost killed a Dr. Stephens last month be cause he brought in a high bill for attending his father in-law, Col. Sheldon when sick there ye winter past. — Land extraordinarily good all along on ye lake & for 20 miles back. People troubled with ye fever & ague. Colchester & Burlington all deists & proper heathen. About one quarter of ye inhabitants & almost all ye men of learning diests in ye State. People pay little regard to ye Sabbath, hunt & fish on that day frequent ly. Not more than 1 -6 part of ye families attend family prayer in y* whole State. About 1 -2 would be glad to have ye Gospel & to support public worship & ye gos pel Ministry. The rest would chuse to have no Sabbath no ministers — no religion — no heaven — no hell — no morality. 4 O Clock P M preached a lecture at Esq Smith's. The hearers very much affected. Went home with Capt. Comstock. His wife my cousin. A woman greatly esteemed; live on yc Lake shore & have a good farm. Thursday 1 1 O Clock AM — went out in a [26] pleasure boat on ye Lake where Arnold's fleet was defeated by ye british, a raft of Lumber went off for Canada — w1* covered an acre of water & had two ltttle huts on it. The rafting business unprofitable for ye State and for individuals that undertake it. Thursday had an interview with an old College acquaintance, a Candidate who had preached to 90 vacancies & been a Candidate for 1 8 years. He rode with me to Mr. Roswell Hopkins in New Haven ye Secretary of ye State — a modest, diffident & sensible man. Lodged with him — a wretched log house — Slept in ye midst of ye family. Friday went to Esq Brash's, at ye City — viewed ye falls of ye Otter Creek & ye works there. The falls 40 feet, a great curiosity. Plum trees natural to y* Country — after viewing ye falls went down ye Creek & crossed ye ferry. And reached General Strong's in Addison 5 O Clock P M — a pleasant place on y6 Lake two miles north of Crown Point & a sensible man. Here I had ye pleasure of seeing Major Storrs, my old Pupil; now State Attorney for ye County of Addison. Now some history of ye Country of Ver mont follows— Lake George Southwest of Lake Cham plain — 30 miles long & two and an half broad at a medium. Lake Champlain 1 60 long & 3 miles broad at a medium. West on York side broken, barren & mount ainous land 6 high white mountains, white as y"5 new fallen snow.— Lake Champlain heads south at Skeens- borough & North forms a junction with ye St. Law- [27] rence at Chamblee called ye rapids of St. John's. Ver mont two hundred miles long, 40 broad at yc South ; & 98 at North, Latitude 45 — at a medium 60 miles broad — about 300, 6 mile square towns ; and will bear about 200 families per town or 360000 Souls.— Saturday A M — 1 0 O Clock. Wished — and wish ed to see my dear wife. I have almost forgotten how she looks. It is more painful than words can describe, to be absent from one's family alone in ye woods. Fri day was taken sick at Crown-point. Saturday very sick and wanted to see my family. Sabbath day quite sick and preached at Addison. Audience very attentive. Almost sunk into gloom. Seemed yl I could not live. Monday passed Crown-point — Bredport — Shorum — Orwill & Fair-Haven. Crown-point a remarkable place more than a million of money Sterling laid out in erect ing ye works there, the Lake half a mile wide, ye fort on ye west side. Mount Independence in Orwill on ye East side of ye Lake. Ticonderoga opposite on y* West side 15 miles south of Crown-point. Orwill Joshua Tracy Esq lives, become very rich, owns 9000 acres of land — vain — loquacious — foolish — & proud. Fair-Haven lives Dr. Smith, a sensible, polite man — full of vanity. Col. Lion, a driving man in business, a deist. Passed through Hampton in Yorke State. Came to Poultney. Vermont Clergy sate there in Associa tion. Illiterate, miserably appearing body. Preached at Poultney to ye Association, on y"5 divine government. [28] Received ye highest encomiums & warmest applause from all ye Gentlemen of ye Clergy. Conversed some in ye Association & was listened to as an Oracle. Here saw Revd Mr. Avery of Stamford, on a mission to Vermont. He appeared Chagrined & deeply mortified at y* Superior defference showed to me ; & was full of envy at my popularity.— Wednesday afternoon rode to Wells and preached to a listening congregation. After Sermon proceeded on to Pollet. At Wells six of ye preachers attended me, & were all attention & said, if they could preach so easy & so elegantly, & so sentimentally, they would preach all ye time. Thurs day preached at Pawlet ; put up at Rev*1 Mr. Be- bee's — talked to his people. They dissatisfied with his rigidity. — Friday 1 0 O Clock preached at Rupert where ye Revd Mr. Bebee accompanied, and I had two or three learned Deists to hear me. Afternoon went on to Dorset & 4 o Clock preached there. Lodged with Revd Mr. Sill, an aged, friendly man, but moderate talents. Saturday accompanied by him I rode to Manchester, put up at Mr. Richardson's. Sabbath Morning rode 3 miles to Manchester meeting house — here I went to Col. Keyes. His wife glad to see me & very polite. Here I was introduced to one of general Allyn's daughters now Mrs. Hitchcock. Both rank deists — two more deists at meeting — I felt very disagreeably all day. 4 o Clock rode down to Sunderland to preach 5 O Clock where I kept my first [29] Sabbath in my evangelical tour. Mr. Hitchcock Sr/his Lady — Mrs. Keyes & Mr. Langdon & others attend-; ed me. I felt most severely to find ye Deists flocking after me. I was very affectionately welcomed by this people. They seemed overjoyed to see me. Many came to see me in ye evening to bid me farewell & gave me a little money. Monday morning June 8th set out for home Met yc govornor of Vermont on my rode to Shaftsbury. He expressed much love for me. Bid him farewell. — 1 2 O Clock reached Bennington — here saw Mr. Swift, ye Apostle for ye State. A sensi ble worthy man. After dinner set out for Williams town — through Pawnal. — Monday night lodged with Rev"* Mr. Swift of that place he has y6 epilepsy. A good man. Tuesday morning 6 o Clock set out from his house to Lainsborough. Called on Mr. Collins. He was gone to ye seaside with a consumptive daughter. Sad occasion ! — My horse was very lame. Went to a blacksmith & he found his hoof badly gravelled. Rode on to Becket. At Washington called on Mr. Steele — see Colo Steele — Mrs. Milichen all overwhelmed with joy to see me. Reached my Brothers — about dark, fatigued very much ; — overcome with ye suffer ings of my journey. Wednesday morning 10th June expected to have set out for home, but it rained hard. I feel gloomy — how hard to bear disappointments ! I set my heart upon seeing my family this day. I am dis tressed to see them. I know not how to content myself [30] one hour. O how painful is absence from dear friends! It is tearing ye heart to pieces. I would give almost any thing to see my dear family.— But must be patient. An alwise Being orders all things. All day I am mel- ancholly & wretched. My wife is not out of my thoughts one half hour. How often has she been in my mind and remembered constantly & fervently in my supplications to heaven. I hope she as often re members me. It would break her heart to know how much I have undergone. Every body is kind to me. Brother Samuel is coming to preach at Becket. How mysterious ye events of Providence ! Hope he will do good. — Thursday 1 1 th June set out early for home. How rejoiced am I to set my face homeward, acci- dently heard a word from my family yesterday & of a sudden death among my people, a man thrown from a horse & instantly killed. What gratitude do I owe to a benevolent providence that I have been preserved through all ye perils of journeying ! — Every step my horse takes brings me nearer home, & every moment nearer Eternity. What a vain world is this: Human life is but a journey. My sublimest happiness is doing good, and I believe I have done much good in my mis sion to ye New Settlements. I have now arrived at my own doors — myself & family all in health. — And my warmest praise shall be offered to ye kind, watch ful care of an indulgent Providence. May my journey of life end happily & of all my family. [31] 9002 08837 2678 m