-YIN SOUTHERN SIBERIA JEREMIAH CURTIN YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA Jeremiah Curtin Going up the Steps of Mars Hill to the Place where St. Paul Addressed the Athenians. Frontispiece A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA THE MONGOLS, THEIR RELIGION AND THEIR MYTHS BY JEREMIAH CURTIN 1.1 j Author of "The Mongols, A History," "The Mongols in Russia," " Myths and Folk-Lore of Ireland," " Creation Myths of Primitive America,'' etc. TRANSLATOR OF THE WORKS OF HENRTK SIENKIEWICZ With a Map, and Numerous Illustrations from Photographs BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1909 Copyright, 1909, Bv A. M. Curtin. All rights reserved Published November, 1909 THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. FULFILLING THE AUTHOR S WISH THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO HIS VALUED FRIEND SIR WILLIAM VAN HORNE PREFATORY NOTE JEREMIAH CURTIN took the degree of Bache- " lor of Arts at Harvard College in 1863, having been a member of the last college class that studied their required mathematics under me as Assistant Professor. I found young Curtin's personal ap pearance and his mental processes unusual and inter esting. He was a good scholar in general, with an extraordinary capacity for acquiring languages. In his autobiography (unpublished) he states that seven months and a half before he entered Harvard College he did not know one word of Latin or Greek, but at the admission examination he offered more of each language than was required. At the time of his death, 1906, he knew more than sixty languages and dialects, and spoke fluently every language of Europe and several of the languages of Asia. He was Secretary of Legation of the United States in Russia from 1864 to 1870, during which period he was acting consul-general for one year, 1865-1866. He was connected with the Bureau of Ethnology in the Smithsonian Institution from 1883 to 1891, and later was employed from time to time by the Bureau for special work. In Siberia, during the journey which this volume describes, he studied the Buriat language with a Buriat who knew Russian, and hard as it was to vi PREFATORY NOTE acquire a strange language without the aid of books, he accomplished the feat in a few weeks. At sixty he learnt a new language as quickly as he did when a Harvard student. Having acquired a language, Curtin always wished to learn the history, princi pal achievements, myths, folk-lore, and religious beliefs and usages of the people who spoke that language. Hence his great learning, and his numer ous publications on myths and folk- tales. Curtin is also known to the learned world by his transla tions from the Polish of Quo Vadis and eight other works of Henry Sienkiewicz. He published many valuable translations from the Russian and the Polish. In the year 1900, between the 19th of July and the 15th of September, Curtin made the journey in southern Siberia which is the subject of the follow ing volume, his object being to visit the birthplace of the Mongol race, and to see for himself the origins and survivals of a prepotent people which once sub dued and ruled China, devastated Russia, conquered Burma and other lands east of India, overran Persia, established themselves in Asia Minor and Constantinople, and covered Hungary with blood and ashes, thus occupying at different epochs most of Asia and a large part of Europe. The Buriats, who are the surviving Mongols of to-day, inhabit three sides of Lake Baikal and the only island therein. Lake Baikal is the largest body of fresh water in the Old World. From the regions south of Lake Baikal came Jinghis Khan and Tamer lane, the two greatest personages in the Mongol division of mankind. PREFATORY NOTE vii The volume opens with a brief sketch of the physi cal features and the history of Siberia, a compara tively unknown and dreary country, which covers about one-ninth of the continental surface of the globe. The long journey in southern Siberia is then amply described, the landscape, the institutions, the dwell ings, and the mode of life of the people he met being set forth with vividness and philosophic apprecia tion. An important section of the book relates to the customs of the Buriats — their customs and cere monies at the birth of a child, at a marriage, and in sickness, and their burial rites. It then deals with the origin of the shamans or priests, with the sacred trees and groves, and with the gods of the Buriats. The myths connected with the Mongol religion are next recorded, just as Curtin heard them from the lips of living Buriats. A collection of folk-tales com pletes the volume. It is a book of very unusual character, which only an extraordinary linguist and scholar could have written, so difficult was the gather ing of the material for it. The journey itself was one of considerable hardship and exposure; and the linguistic, historical, and anthropological knowledge required to produce the book has seldom, if ever before, been possessed by any single scholar. The manuscript of this volume was finished a few months before Curtin's death, but it has been pub lished posthumously without the advantage of his revision. CHARLES W. ELIOT. October 20, 1909. CONTENTS CHAPTER I Page The Mongols. — Description of Lake Baikal. — Mongol conquests. — The British in India. — Sketch of the history of Siberia. — Southern Siberia first visited by Russian princes. — Ivan the Great divides Yugria (Siberia). — Stroganoff builds trading posts on the Tobol River. — Yermak, the national hero of Siberia. — Prince Bolhovski, first government official sent to Siberia. — Death of Yermak. — Founding of Tiumen and Tobolsk. — Founding of Pelym, the first place to which exiles were sent. — The exile of a church bell. — Ivan and Vassili Romanoff, brothers of the founder of the Romanoff dynasty, the first exiles of distinction sent to Siberia. — Discovery of the Yakuts. — Russians meet the Buriats. — Founding of Irkutsk. — Buriats be come Russian subjects 1 CHAPTER II My journey to the Buriats. — Description of Irkutsk and the Angara River. — Exorbitant prices. — Preparations for a journey. — A Siberian exile. — A race up hill. — Post stations. — A harelipped driver. — Buriat dogs. — Arrival at Andrei Mihailovitch's. — Death of Mihailoff's son. — Arrival at Usturdi. — Donkeys of Assuan. — Mongol horses. — Lazareff , the cross-eyed widower. — Mongol wedding 18 CHAPTER III walk and talk with Andrei Mihailovitch. — The mission church. — Search for "wise men." — Taking down myths. — Appearance of Manshut, a man wise in ancient lore. — Arrival of convicts from Russia. — A visit to Andrei Mihailovitch's summer home. — Photo graphing Ongons (gods). — Preparation for Horse Sacrifice . . 38 CHAPTER IV The Horse Sacrifice. — Multiplication of food and drink. — Prayer to the gods. — Buriat religion. — Difficulties of introducing a new religion. — Preparations for a journey to the sacred island of Olkhon ... 44 CONTENTS CHAPTER V Page Annoying delays. — A wedding. — Russian influence. — Journey to Olzoni. — Palisaded prison. — Tembovski, a Polish exile. — Visit to the Alexandroff s. — A night journey. — Difficulties encountered at post stations. — Count Mureviefi Amoorski. — "Shamaning" to drive away sickness. — Crossing Lake Baikal. — The "Watchers.'' — Muravieff and the elder of Nur. — Arrival at Seven Pines. — Lodg ing in a church 53 CHAPTER VI A search for old men who know Mongol folk-lore. — Forced to move out of the church. — Lack of food. — Leave Olkhon. — "Ragatz" station. — An Italian blacksmith. — Buriat food. — Picturesque dress of Russian women. — Climate of Siberia. — A Russian exile and his family. — Taking down myths. — Siberian fruit. — Baiandai, a village of ex-convicts. — An exile from Little Russia. — My ser vant, a murderer. — Soldiers ordered to China. — Arkokoff and his surroundings. — A night-watch who had served out a sentence for murder. — Disorder and dirt. — Difficulties encountered. — Wild flowers of Siberia. — Kongoroff exhibits his gods. — A battle with cockroaches. — An inhuman driver. — A German exile. — Return to Usturdi 73 CHAPTER VII A birthday in Siberia. — Search for Manshut. — The Red-nosed exile. — "Red-nose" finds Manshut. — Night ride to Usturdi. — The dissipa tion of young girls. — Leave Usturdi. — Iyok, a town of ex-convicts. — A night in Kuda (Where). — An ignorant official. — Arrival at Irkutsk 87 CHAPTER VIII Customs of the Buriats. — Making of tarasun. — Marriage ceremonies. — Ceremonies after the birth of » child. — Buriat Ongons, gods. — Sickness. — Rites attending the Burning of the Dead. — Buriat Burial of the Dead 92 CHAPTER IX Origin of Shamans. — A Shaman story. — Second sight. — Sacred groves of the Shamans. — Sacred groves of the Burkans. — Sacred trees and groves 105 CHAPTER X The gods of the Buriats. — House Ongons (gods). — Outside Ongons. — Field Ongons. — The Creation. — Esege Malan. — Gesir Bogdo. — Esege Malan and Mother Earth 118 CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XI Page Myths connected with Mongol Religion. — Gesir Bogdo, Nos. I, II, III. — The Iron Hero. — Ashir Bogdo 127 CHAPTER XII Mongol Myths and Folk-lore. — Buruldai Bogdo Khan, Nos. I, II. — Sharau. — Hunkuvai and the Horse with Round Head. — Varhan Tulai Hubun. — Altin Shagoy. — Yerente Khan and his son Sokto. — Ala maid jin and his twin sister. — The Twin Boys, Altin Shagoy and Mungun Shagoy . . . , 186 ILLUSTRATIONS Portrait of the Author Frontispiece Facing Page Irkutsk, Siberia jg Post Station at Elantsin . 24, Our Traveling Carriage while Making the Buriat Journey . 24. Baggage and Provisions of Convicts 4,0 Convicts Passing through the Village of Usturdi 40 Group of Convicts Resting and Lunching 42 Buriat Wedding 42 People Assembled for the Horse Sacrifice 46 Stone Altars on the Hill of Sacrifice 48 I. Horse Sacrifice 50 II. Horse Sacrifice 50 III. Horse Sacrifice 52 IV. Horse Sacrifice 52 V. Horse Sacrifice 54 VI. Horse Sacrifice 54 Convict Prison at a Post Station 68 Buriat Women in Full Dress 68 House where we Boarded on Olkhon Island 72 The Only Russian Church in Olkhon 72 ArkokofT, his Wife, Son, and Son's Wife 80 Lazareff and his Relatives 80 Kongoroff and his Wife 84 Andrei Mihailovitch, Mikiloff and his Young Wife .... 84 Manshut 88 xiv ILLUSTRATIONS Facino Page Buriat Young Lady, Island of Olkhon 88 Ram, Sacrificed as an Offering 100 Bones of the Ram, Left to Rot and Fall 100 Tea from China, Coming from Kiakhta to the Railroad in Irkutsk 106 Buriat Watch Dog 106 Andrei Mihailovitch's Field Ongons 120 Field Ongons 124 Field Ongons, Church in which the Author Spent Three Days, and Group of Houses and Russian Store Mentioned on Page 72 128 Vassya, his Father, and the Author 142 Drying Fuel — Cow Droppings — Island of Olkhon . . . . 158 Church near a Post Station on the Road to Lake Baikal . . 158 Our Buriat Friends in the Sacred Island of Olkhon .... 1 76 Russian Exile and Two Buriat Shamans 194 The Author's Carriage 194 Village of Alaguersk-rod in Siberia 214 A Group of Unmarried Mongol Women or Young Ladies in Usturdi 214 Gods which Guard the House from the Outside, Olkhon Island 236 Buriat Gods, or Representations of their Gods 236 Buriat Household Gods 258 Contents of « God Bags " 258 Buriats — Husband and Wife in the Hayfield 282 Representations of Buriat Gods 282 Fold out A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA CHAPTER I THE BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY THE Buriats whose myth-tales I have collected, and whose beliefs, modes of worship, and customs I have studied at their source and describe in this volume, are Mongols in the strictest sense of the word as men use it. They inhabit three sides of Lake Baikal, as well as Olkhon its only island. The place and the people are noteworthy. Lake Baikal is the largest body of fresh water in the Old World, being over four hundred miles long and from twenty-four to fifty-six miles broad, its total area covering about thirteen thousand square miles. The Buriats living west of that water, and those inhabiting the sacred island of Olkhon, are the only Mongols who have preserved their own race religion with its primitive usages, archaic beliefs, and philosophy, hence they are a people of great interest to science. The region about that immense body of water, Lake Baikal, is of still greater interest in history, for from the mountain land south of the lake, and touching it, came Temudjin, known later as Jinghis Khan, and Tamerlane, or Timur Lenk (the Iron Limper), the two greatest personages in the Mongol division of mankind. From the first of these two mighty man-slayers were descended the Mongol subduers of China and Russia. Among Jinghis Khan's many grandsons were Kublai Khan, the subjector of China, together with Burma and other lands east of India; Hulagu, who destroyed the Assassin Commonwealth of Persia, stormed Bagdad, and extinguished the Abbasid Kalifat; and Batu, who covered Russia with blood and ashes, ruined Hun gary, hunting its king to an island in the Adriatic, crushed 1 2 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA German and other forces opposed to the Mongols at Liegnitz, and returned to the Volga region, where he established his chief headquarters. Descendants of Jinghis Khan ruled in Russia for two centuries and almost five decades. In China they wielded power only sixty-eight years. From Tamerlane, a more brilliant, if not a greater, leader than Jinghis, descended the Mongols of India, whose history is re markable both in the rise and the fall of the empire which they founded. These two Mongol conquerors had a common ancestor in Jinghis Khan's great-great-grandfather, Tumbinai; hence both men were of the same blood and had the same land of origin, — the region south of Lake Baikal. That Mongol power which began its career near Baikal covered all Asia, or most of it, and a large part of Europe, and lasted till destroyed by Russia and England. The histories of these struggles are world-wide in their meaning; they deserve the closest study, and in time will surely receive it. When the descendants of Jinghis Khan had lost China, the only great conquest left them was Russia, and there, after a rule of two hundred and forty-four years, power was snatched from them. The Grand Moguls, those masters of India, the descendants of Tamerlane, met with Great Britain, and were stripped of their empire in consequence. The British conquest of India and its methods mark a new era in history, — the era of commercial invasion, the era of the "drummer" in politics; that drummer who, in addition to the wares which he offers, has statecraft behind him, and when the need comes he has also cold steel and hot cannon-balls. The Grand Mogul and his counsellors could not suspect danger from this man. They considered him, at first, much as rich ladies in great country houses far from cities might con sider a humble and toiling pack-peddler. But, though he might seem insignificant, this man was really a conqueror. The Grand Mogul, Jehargir, could not see, of course, that Hawkins and Roe would bring after them servants such as Clive, Warren BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 3 Hastings, and others, who would take from his heirs whatso ever they valued, — land, dominion, and treasures. Mongol rule was abolished in India by the British because it did not accord with their methods and objects. It was de stroyed by the Russians because it was foreign, oppressive, and hateful. They simply freed their land from aliens. The con flict in Russia was what people call patriotic. It was carried on through sacrifices and struggles of many kinds. There is a third Mongol history which affects greatly the actors in the two histories just mentioned. This history had its origin at Lake Baikal, though indirectly. When Jinghis Khan was hunting the Kwaresmian ruler, Shah Mohammed, to his death on an island in the Caspian, a group of Turks, or western Mon gols, fled before him, and found refuge in Asia Minor. The time for them proved favorable. They fought; they obtained land, and prospered. They grew great by accretion, as does a snowball rolling down a long mountain slope, till at last they won the empire established by Constantine. This Mongol group, four hundred and forty-four families in number, became known as the Ottomans, and after the destruc tion of the Kalifat at Bagdad they were the heirs of Mohammed, and a terror to Europe. In time, however, they weakened, and Great Britain came to be the defender-in-chief and mainstay of those western Mongols, and Russia their main and chief attacker. So the spoilers of Tamerlane's descendants in India became the active allies of the Mongols on the Bosporus, and the enemy of that Russia who had pushed Mongol rule out of northern Europe. Had Jinghis Khan never lived, those Turks, or western Mon gols, known afterward as Ottomans, would never have left Asia and ruled on the Bosporus. The Mongols have played an immense part in the past, and they bear in them at the present the great mystery of the future, — a mystery of deep import to all men. The birthplace of that mystery was the mountain region south of Lake Baikal. In view of this I visited that central land of Siberia where the family of Jinghis had its origin. I think it well to give here a brief outline sketch of Siberia, 4 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA a country which covers an area of fourteen and one half million square kilometres ; that is, about one ninth of the whole continen tal surface of the globe, but which to the mind of most readers is an unknown, boundless, cold, dreadful wonderland. I shall mention a few of the chief events in the history of the coun try up to the time when the Buriats first recognized Russian supremacy. Though the name " Sibir " appears in Russian chronicles in 1407 for the first time, Russians knew the country east of the Ural Mountains much earlier. Southern Siberia was visited by Russian princes in the middle of the thirteenth century, when they were forced to do homage to the Grand Khan at Kara- korum, his first capital, not very far to the south of Lake Baikal. Western Siberia was known as early as the eleventh century to merchants of Novgorod, who had dealings with the people of that region which they called Yugria or Ugri. Those people had furs of various kinds which they were ready to barter, and of all sources of income for Novgorod the chief, and the richest in those days, was the fur trade. That great territory between Nov gorod and the Ural Mountains, and from the Volga to the Frozen Ocean was one vast preserve, one immense hunting ground for fur-bearing animals. In the Middle Ages the wearing of furs was universal. Every one wore them who had the wherewithal to purchase. Wealthy persons wore mantles and coats made of the most costly skins, and at that time Great Novgorod purveyed for all Europe — found furs for every one who would buy. This demand im pelled Novgorod to subject, and in cases to colonize, places far north and east of its own territory. At first fur-bearing animals abounded in all the lands under Novgorod, but in time they decreased in more western regions, and fur hunters searched through the forests on the Kama, Petchora, and northern Dwina, as well as on streams running into those rivers. Furs were obtained both in payment of tribute and in return for goods furnished the natives. The government of Novgorod sent out its collectors at intervals. The tribute which they took BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 5 was paid in furs usually, if not always. Traders also went from various points on the Volga to the Arctic, and besides furs they obtained whale and walrus oil, walrus tusks, sea fowls, tar, and potash, but fur was the chief and most valuable article of com merce. From Perm these men received also silver, but this silver had been brought from beyond the Ural Mountains, which in those days were called Kamenyet Poyas (the Stone Girdle). Though the country west of the mountains was great in extent, the country east of them was enormously greater. It was also richer in furs of a high quality, and had besides the master metals, — gold and silver. When regions west of the mountain range had become well known to collectors of tribute and to traders, men began to seek wealth in regions east of it. The fame of that eastern land soon spread throughout all northern Russia, and in 1032 an expedi tion from Novgorod set out for the "Iron Gates," that is, a pass in the Ural, through which they intended to enter Yugria. This expedition met failure and was crushed by the natives. Only a few of the men went back to Novgorod; most of them perished. In 1096, sixty-four years after that first expedition, accord ing to a statement in the Chronicle of Nestor, a Novgorod merchant named Rogovitch sent a man first to the Petchora, where the natives paid tribute, and afterward to Yugria, "where the people are shut in by sky-touching mountains, in which there is a small gate with an opening. Through this gate men look out and talk from time to time, but no one understands them. If any person shows a knife or an axe to these people they offer furs in exchange for it. The Yugrians were confined in this region by Alexander of Macedon. While on his way to the sea, called 'The Sun's Place,' Alexander discovered these people, and, seeing their terrible uncleanness, — they did not bury their dead, they ate snakes, flies, and every other vile thing, — he feared lest they might increase and defile the whole earth by their practices, so he drove them to that great north eastern corner and fenced them in there firmly. He asked the Lord, and high mountains closed in on the Yugrians. Still the 6 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA mountains did not meet altogether, a gap of twelve ells remained, and there a bronze gate was formed of such quality that fire cannot burn it, or iron cut it." Under the year 1114 it is noted in the Chronicle that "old men who had gone to Yugria saw a cloud touch the earth, and then fur-bearing animals came out of it, and rushed away through that country in myriads. Another cloud came down, and rein deer sprang out of it." These tales are like those told by Pacific coast Indians. There are tribes on the Klamath River who tell of animals coming from the sky. I have several such myths which I took down in California. This account in Nestor's Chronicle is beyond doubt a Siberian myth-tale given to some Russian who told it at home as if he had been an eye-witness, or who was reported as so tell ing it. Toward the end of the twelfth century Yugria paid tribute to Novgorod, though there was resistance at first, as there had been west of the mountains, where in 1187 one hundred men were killed while collecting tribute. In 1197 a party east of the Ural lost a still larger number. After 1264 Yugria was counted by Novgorod as a possession of that republic, and tribute was collected there. In 1364 an expedition from Novgorod, made up of young people, sons of boyars, and volunteers, led by Alexander Abakumovitch and Stephan Lyapa, reached the Ob River, one of the mighty rivers which embrace that vast plain called western Siberia. There they separated into two parties : one, sailing down to the mouth, conquered all tribes to the Frozen Ocean; the other, sailing up the river, was equally successful. Forty-three years later, or in 1407, Tohtamish, once khan of the Golden Horde, the man who burned and ruined Moscow, was murdered in Sibir, a town on the Irtish some versts below its junction with the Tobol. The name " Sibir " was used then for the first time, as the chronicler infbrms us. In 1446 a new expedition to Yugria was made, but it failed; and this seems to have been the last expedition sent by Nov gorod. Nineteen years later Ivan Veliki (the Great) of Moscow, afterward the conqueror of "Lord Novgorod," as the proud BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 7 people called their city, commanded Vassili Skryaba of Ustyug to subject Yugria. This was done, as it seemed for the moment, since Kalpak and Tekich, princes of Yugria, were brought to Moscow, where Ivan Veliki confirmed their titles, and appointed a tribute which they were to pay for all Yugria. Thenceforth Ivan must have considered himself master of the country, for in 1488, when writing to the King of Bohemia, he added Yu- gorski to his other titles. But in reality the northern part of Yugria showed no desire for subjection to Moscow. And years later three commanders, one of whom was Prince Kurbski, led five thousand men into northern Yugria and conquered it, capturing forty-one towns and taking, as prisoners, more than one thousand people, with fifty-eight princes or elders. Fifteen years after this Vassili, son of Ivan Veliki, divided northern Yugria. The region on the Lower Ob he called Obdo- ria, and that on the river Konda, Kondia, and to his titles he added Prince Obdorski and Kondinski. A little later the south ern part became known as Sibir, which was the name of the capital of the native khans, and in time became the name of the entire country. In a letter, written in 1554, to Edward VI of England, Ivan the Terrible, as Karamzin states, entitled himself " Commander of all Sibir." In 1558 Tsar Ivan granted Grigori Stroganoff unoccupied lands, one hundred and forty-six versts in length, on the Kama and Chusova rivers. No taxes were to be paid on those lands for twenty years. Ten years later lands extending twenty versts along the Kama from the mouth of that river were granted to Grigori's brother, Yakov. These lands were to be free of taxes for ten years. In return the brothers were to build stockades and maintain troops at their own expense. On both these grants the Stroganoffs showed great activity. In 1563 Khan Kuchum, said by some writers to be a Nogai, who lived near Lake Aral, and by others to be a simple Usbek, captured Sibir the capital, and after killing the ruling khan, Ediger, and Bekbulat his brother, termed himself Tsar of Sibir, probably calling all the country in that region Sibir, to signify 8 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA that it belonged to his capital. When established firmly he subdued many northern tribes and refused to pay tribute to Moscow. In 1569 Ivan the Terrible sent Kuchum a message reminding him of his duties as a vassal; and in 1571-72 Kuchum de spatched two envoys, Tamas and Aisa, to Moscow with tribute, and a letter in which he asked to become a subject of the Tsar, and promised to pay the tribute in future. The envoys took oath for Kuchum and his chief men, but not knowing how to write and having no seal they were unable to sign an oath paper; hence Ivan sent Chabukoff, the son of a boyar, with envoys to Sibir, and there Kuchum and his chief men took the oath to Ivan, and put their seals to the oath papers. Mahmet Kul, mentioned variously as son, brother, nephew, and relative of Kuchum, was enraged that his people should bend before Russians. He attacked those who were willing to pay tribute to Moscow, captured their wives and children, and ended by assaulting Chabukoff while that envoy was returning to Moscow; but learning that troops on the Chusova were preparing to attack him he fled. In 1574 the Stroganoffs, Grigori and Yakov, were granted the privilege to build posts on the Tobol and Takhcha rivers ; to use guns and cannon; to enlist men and employ them in warfare; to restrain every uprising; to establish iron- works and fisheries ; to cultivate land on the Tobol and streams flow ing into it. Settlers on those lands were freed for twenty years from taxes and services of all kinds. The Stroganoffs were to put down robbers, thieves, and vagrants; they were to protect native tribes and other people from Kuchum, and bring Kuchum and his subjects to true obedience. In Moscow there was great complaint touching robberies on the Volga, and in 1577 Ivan Grozney (the Terrible) sent a strong force with an order to capture Yermak, the chief ataman, with four other atamans, and send them in irons to Moscow, that he might make an example of them by a painful and igno minious death. Some of the robbers, or Cossacks, as people called them, were captured and hanged straightway, but most of them scattered BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 9 and saved themselves; among these was Yermak Timofieff, with his associate atamans, Ivan Koltso, Yakov Mihailoff, Nikita Pan, and Matvei Mestcheryak, and other men to the number of five thousand, or five hundred as some historians state. The following year these men reached the land of the Stro ganoffs. Grigori and Yakov were dead ; their heirs were Simeon, a third brother, Maksim, son of Yakov, and Nikita, son of Grigori. There are in Russian Chronicles two versions of what happened at this time. One is that Yermak planned the subjection of Kuchum and the conquest of Sibir, and induced the Stroganoffs to aid him; the other is that the Stroganoffs planned the conquest and got Yermak to assist them in the undertaking. Either version may be true, or it may be that the Stroganoffs and Yermak had the same plan and agreed to co-operate. But the glory of being the first real conqueror of Siberia is given to Yermak, and he is therefore the popular hero of Siberia. Kuchum had shown clearly that no success in Sibir was pos sible for the Stroganoffs or others till his power was crushed thoroughly. Yermak undertook to crush it. Of Yermak and his origin accounts are also conflicting. One Chronicle calls him Vassili, and says that he was a native of the Ural country, who worked on a boat navigating the Kama and the Volga; that he was pot-boiler, that is, cook, for the boat men. Yermak was the name of a company's pot on such boats, and instead of calling him Vassili the boatmen nicknamed him Yermak (Pot). Yermak was ambitious, hence he grew dis satisfied and restless, and, seeing a chance to win wealth on the Volga by robbery, he deserted his employers, formed a com pany of young, daring boatmen, put himself at the head of it, and began business. He did what he pleased, and above all what gave profit. At last he and Koltso with a few of their as sociates grew so bold that they robbed the Tsar's envoy; and then came the order to bring him to Moscow. In another ac count Yermak is made a Cossack of the Don ; and in a third, that of Kostomareff, he is described as an ataman in the Tsar's service on the Ural, and has no connection whatever with Don Cossacks or with robbery on the Volga. 10 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA Yermak's first hostile meeting with the natives of Sibir was with the Tartar prince, Epancha, whom he defeated. In a second battle, somewhat later, he captured Epancha's chief stronghold, which stood where the town of Tiumen is now situated. Yermak and his forces spent the winter of 1580-81 at this place. Early in the spring he sailed down the Tura. Near the mouth of the river hostile princes were awaiting him. A battle ensued, which after some days ended in the defeat of the native forces, and Yermak captured so much booty that he was forced to abandon a large part of it. He now entered the Tobol River, and with ten hundred and sixty men, his whole army, sailed toward the Irtish. In spite of continual attacks by the enemy the small army reached Isker, or Sibir, Kuchum's capital. At that place there was another engagement, and though few of Yermak's men were killed many were wounded. October 1st a battle was fought in which the Russians simply held their own, but on October 23d a merciless hand to hand conflict took place ; Yermak lost one hundred and seven men, but he won a decisive victory. A few days later two tribes deserted Kuchum, and he fled with his troops to the steppes, taking with him everything that it was possible to carry. October 26, 1581 is memorable in the history of Siberia, for on that day Yermak entered Sibir, the capital, as master. Four days later a chief of the Ostyaks appeared bringing provisions and tribute. Early in 1582 Mahmet Kul was captured and taken to Moscow. Yermak now sent Ivan Koltso to lay the Tsardom of all Sibir at the feet of Ivan Grozney. Koltso was attended by fifty Cos sacks, and took with him two thousand four hundred valuable skins, two black foxes, fifty beavers, and a letter from Yermak to the Tsar announcing his conquest. , The Tsar received Koltso with honor, and so great was his gratitude that he sent Yermak a fur mantle from his own shoul ders, a magnificent goblet, and two rich suits of armor, besides much money. He also sent one of his most valued leaders, Gliikhoff, to assist him. Yermak now extended his authority in every direction. In BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 11 September, 1583, a messenger came from Karacha, a murza who had formerly been devoted to Kuchum, begging Yermak for aid against Nogai Tartars. Yermak, not thinking of treach ery, sent Koltso with forty Cossacks. Karacha slaughtered the entire party. In November came the first government officials to Siberia . from Moscow, Prince Bolhovski, with two associates and five hundred sharpshooters. The following winter there was a terrible dearth of provisions. Prince Bolhovski and many of his men died from hardship and lack of food. While the Rus sians were in such straits Karacha tried to anticipate Yermak in action, and prevent him from taking revenge for the murder of Koltso and his Cossacks. He invested Sibir, the capital; but the Russians made a sally, defeated him, and drove off his war riors, who fled, leaving their supply of provisions behind them. During the summer of 1584 Yermak made his last expedition. He sailed up the Irtish to subdue the various tribes and force them to pay tribute, and to punish Karacha, if he could find him. With the tribes he succeeded, but Karacha eluded every search, and escaped. Near the end of July Yermak returned to his capital, but in August sailed again up the river to rescue, as he thought, Buk hara traders, reports having reached him that Kuchum had seized them on the Irtish. Finding that these reports were false, he turned and sailed homeward. One night, when it was so dark and stormy that Yermak thought it unsafe to continue the journey, he stopped at an island near the bank of the river. The weary Cossacks were soon sleep ing soundly. The enemy, who had followed very sharply and cautiously, stole onto the island during the rain-storm and dark ness and killed or drove into the river every man except one; that man escaped and carried the tidings to Sibir. Yermak was either killed by the natives or drowned. His body was borne down the river and found, seven days later, by a Tartar fisherman, named Yanish. After Yermak's death Siberia was lost to Russia for a season. In Moscow no one knew what had happened in far-off Siberia. The entire force of men left there was one hundred and fifty, the 12 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA remnant of Yermak's little army, and of those warriors who had come with Bolhovski. They were under command of Glukhoff, who, fearing to remain in a hostile country with so small a force, decided to return west of the Ural. He left Sibir, and, not ven turing to take the road by which Yermak had entered the coun try, sailed down the Irtish and Ob rivers, crossed the Ural Mountains well toward the north, came out in the region of Archangel, and went thence to Moscow. Kuchum's son, Alei, entered Sibir, the capital, immediately after Glukhoff's departure, but was soon driven out by Seidyak, a son of that Bekbiilat, whom Kuchum had killed when he seized the place originally. In 1585 Tsar Fedor, son and successor of Ivan Grozney, knowing nothing of what had happened, sent Ivan Mansuroff to succeed Prince Bolhovski. When Mansuroff arrived in Sibir he found no Russians whatsoever. If a few were left in the country they had associated themselves with the natives, to escape de struction. It was impossible to return to Moscow for the cold season had come. Mansuroff was forced to remain in Siberia for the winter, hence with all expedition he raised a stockade and built houses on the right bank of the Ob, just opposite the mouth of the Irtish. The Ostyaks made one attack, but were so frightened by the sound of the cannon that they fled. In the spring Mansuroff set out for home, going by the same road, through the Ural Moun tains, which Glukhoff had taken. When Glukhoff reached Moscow, and told his tale of defeat and disaster Tsar Fedor sent three hundred men to Sibir under two voevodas, Vassili Sukin and Ivan Myasnoi. Daniel Chul- koff, a secretary, was to follow. In July of that year, 1586, Sukin founded Tiumen on the Tura, and, not venturing to move far ther on toward Sibir, he extended Moscow rule over tribes in the region around him. He was not too far from the Ural, hence safe. The position was good, geographically. Early in 1587 five hundred men came from Moscow with Chul- koff, who brought to Sukin and Myasnoi a command, from the Tsar, to found a city on the right bank of the Irtish, near the mouth of the Tobol — Tobolsk was founded. BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 13 Tiumen was the first Russian city built in Siberia. Tobolsk on the Tobol followed quickly, but was soon transferred to the high bank of the Irtish. Chulkoff induced Seidyak, ruling then in Sibir, the town taken once by Yermak, to visit him at Tobolsk. Uzaz Makmen, Sultan of the Kaisak Horde, came also, and Karacha, who had slaughtered Koltso and his Cossacks. Chul koff seized all three of these men and sent them to Moscow. Then he attacked and captured Sibir, the capital. Its inhabi tants fled, and the place was never reoccupied by any one. In their advance toward the East the Russians did not meet with very serious resistance till near the Amoor River, generally the native tribes submitted to the Cossacks without a struggle and the Russian government gradually built forts which later on became towns. In 1590, for the first time, colonists were sent to Siberia. Tobolsk was made the chief city and administrative center. New towns appeared, among others Pelym, which Prince Peter Gort- chakoff founded. This place is notable as the first in Siberia to which exiles were sentenced. Many of the people of Uglitch, a place north of Moscow, were sent thither by Tsar Fedor be cause of the death in their town of his half-brother, the young son of Ivan the Terrible. Strangest exile of all was a church bell from Uglitch, sent to Tobolsk in 1591. The alarm had been sounded on that bell when the Tsar's son was killed. In Tobolsk it was hung in the tower of the church on the Market place, to strike the hours. In this year Beriozoff was founded by Trahanistoff, a voevoda, and Surgut, on the river Ob by the Princes Lvoff and Volkonski. From 1593 to 1598 there was immense activity in Siberia. Tara, Obdorsk, and many other towns were founded, and commerce began to flourish. In 1598 Prince Masalski and Ivan Voyekoff set out with one thousand men to punish Kuchum for his pernicious activity, and for killing Koltso. They met and crushed him. Kuchum lost his army and his family: five sons, eight wives, and eight daughters of his were sent to Moscow. The old man himself, though deaf and blind, did not yield to the Russians; he fled to the Nogai Tartars, who somewhat later killed him. 14 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA And now Russia established itself firmly in Siberia. The first exiles of distinction to be sent into the country were sent to Pelym in 1599. . They were Ivan and Vassili Romanoff, who for acting against Boris Grodenof, now Tsar, were exiled from Russia. Their brother Fedor escaped exile by assuming the habit of a monk and the name Philaret, while his wife took the veil and the name Martha. From this monk and this nun sprang the founder of the Romanoff dynasty, Michael Romanoff. The city of Tomsk was founded in 1604 by Gavrilo Pisemski and Vassili Tyrtoff. This city is now, in 1900, the educational center of northwestern Siberia. It has one of the largest Univer- ties in the country, twenty-three Russian churches, two syna gogues, and a large Catholic church. It is a wide-awake flourish ing city in spite of a climate so cold that during winter the ther mometer is about forty degrees below zero (Fahrenheit) for many days at a time, and the river Tom, on which the city is situated, is frozen quite half the year. In 1620 it first became known to the world that in the far north, on the Lena River, lived a people who called themselves Yakuts. This information was given to officials in Tobolsk by the Mangazei Cossacks. In 1631 Martynoff sailed into the Lena by the Vilyno and discovered the Yakuts on whom he imposed tribute. The so-called Yakutsk Territory occupies the basin of the Lena River. Its climate is very severe, so severe in fact that agriculture is impossible, but the country is so rich in coal, iron, silver, and gold that within the past two centuries many and many thousands of convicts have been sent there to work in the mines, and because of this it has become known to the whole world. In 1621 an event occurred of great importance for the future historians of Russia: Cyprian came as the first archbishop to Siberia. He was a scholar, and a man of remarkable foresight. His prescience has been of immense value to Russia. His ear liest work was to find the few survivors of Yermak's forces and write down from their lips what they knew of that hero's expe ditions and conquests. That information formed the basis of Siberian chronicles. In 1622 the Russians first became acquainted with the Buriats. BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 15 Yakov Hripunoff learned of their visiting the river Kan to get tribute, and he sent Kozloff, a Cossack, as an envoy to invite them to become Russian subjects. The result of this mission is unknown. We know, however, that in 1627 two expeditions were sent out, one under Bugor to explore the Lena River, the other under Perfilyeff, to force the Buriats to pay tribute. Bugor reached the upper waters of the Lena, but Perfilyeff was unsuccessful; the Buriats would not surrender their inde pendence. In 1628 Piotr Beketoff, with a party of Cossacks, was sent against the Buriats on the Angara, but returned after reaching the mouth of the Oka River. In 1632 Beketoff ascended the Angara and then the Ilim, crossed to the Lena, sailed down that river, and built a fort which he called Yakutsk. Later this fort was removed to the present Yakutsk, seventy versts higher up the river, and in 1638 Ya kutsk was made the administrative center of northeastern Siberia. That same year Verhoyansk in the far North was founded, and in 1640 were discovered the rivers Indigirka and Alazli, both of which flow into the Frozen Ocean. About this time an envoy, Vassili Starkoff, was sent to the Altyn Khan at Lake Ubsa. Among that khan's presents to Michael Romanoff was the first tea taken to Russia, two hundred packages, each weighing one pound and a quarter. Starkoff refused to take the tea, declaring that it was useless, and was difficult to carry, but the khan insisted and the envoy, not wish ing to displease him, yielded. Tea taken thus to Moscow against the wishes of the envoy soon became a national drink among the Russians and has ever remained so. Under the lead of Kurbat Ivanoff, a Cossack, the Russians appeared, in 1643, on the western shore of Lake Baikal, and also on Olkhon Island. In 1646 the Buriats besieged Verholensk, a place founded in 1641 by Martin Vassilieff. Ivanoff, the officer commanding there, was reinforced by Bedaroff and together they defeated the Buriats and ravaged their villages. Soon after this Ivan Pohalioff, sent to collect tribute from the Buriats on the Irkut, crossed Lake Baikal near its southern border, and then through the friendship of a petty prince, Turukai, reached 16 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA Urga, the capital of Setsen Khan. As a result of this visit Setsen Khan, the year following, sent an embassy to Moscow. In 1648 Bargiizin was founded near the eastern shore of Lake Baikal as a place to receive tribute from the Buriats. That same year an expedition was sent north under Dejneff, Ankudinoff, and Aleksaieff. Seven boats, each containing ten men, sailed eastward from the Kolyma, a river flowing into the Arctic Ocean. Four of the vessels disappeared during the voyage, and were never seen afterward. With those remaining the explorers doubled Shelag Point, which they named Svyatoi Nos (Holy Nose). The vessel of Ankudinoff was wrecked there and he with his men were taken on to the other boats. After that they doubled Chukotchi, or Cape Chukchi, in which Dejneff describes beyond doubt the easternmost point of all Asia. In his report to the Yakutsk voevoda he explains how, in an encounter with the Chuchis, Aleksaiyeff was wounded and they put to sea at once. A frightful storm separated the vessels and they never met again. Dejneff was carried by the wind to the south of the Anadyr River. Thus he was the first man to show that there was a passage be tween the Arctic Ocean and the Pacific. To him in reality be longs the honor of discovering the straits which now bear the name of Bering, for they were seen by him eighty years earlier (in 1648) than by Bering. Cast upon the shore, near the mouth of the river Oliutora, Dejneff and his companions made their way to the Anadyr River. There they built a shelter for the winter, and soon after were rescued by traders. Aleksaiyeff and Ankudinoff perished in Kamchatka. Though Dejneff's name is found in documents till 1654 his fate is un known. He undoubtedly died during some expedition. In 1650 there were several conflicts between Russians and Buriats, and only after much effort did the Russians assert their supremacy. During 1650 Yerofei Habaroff set out from Yakutsk with one hundred men, hunting for sable. He ascended the Olekma and the Tungar and reached the Amoor by the Ur and the Zeya/ In two years he explored the whole river, and was the first man to launch a flotilla there. That year, 1650, the Buriats on the Oka withdrew up the Angara, and Nefedyeff , an official, BIRTHPLACE OF MONGOL ACTIVITY 17 was sent with his men to bring them back to the place they had deserted. In 1652 Pohakoff established the post of Irkutsk on Irkut River near its junction with the Angara. In 1661 it was removed to the right bank of the Angara, the present site of the city of Irkutsk, and twenty-one years later it was made an administra tive center. The same year that the Irkutsk post was established Ivan Robroff was sent from the Lena in search of a northern continent, but this expedition disappeared and no word ever came from it. In 1653 Fort Balazansk was established in the Buriat country and sixty Russian families were settled there. Two years later the Buriats were preparing to withdraw to the East of Lake Baikal, but, listening to the counsel of their wise men, they resolved to remain in their home country and submit to Russian rule. There were uprisings, however, and it was not till near the end of the seventeenth century that the Buriats, completely subdued, be came peaceful Russian subjects. Seventy-five years after Yermak crossed the Urals into the al most unknown land of Yugra, Russia had swept across Asia ; her boundaries touched the frozen ocean in the north, and China in the south ; and in 1697 Kamchatka was added to her domains. CHAPTER II MY JOURNEY TO THE BUBIATS ON the morning of the 9th of July, 1900, the train on which I had traveled from Moscow came in sight of Irkutsk. I was greatly delighted with this capital of Eastern Siberia. The city, as seen from the train which was nearing it swiftly, was extremely imposing, not only because of its size, and its many large churches, but also because the train approaches Irkutsk in such a direction that the front, and one side of the city, are presented together, as was the case with Grecian tem ples, the approaches to which were arranged toward the angle between the facade and one side of the structure. Right in front of the city is the Angara, a deep, very clear and swift river which flows out of Lake Baikal, known as I have al ready stated, as the largest and by far the most beautiful body of fresh water in Asia. The Angara is the one outlet of Lake Baikal, which sends forth its waters through this river to the Yenissei, and thus they are borne on to the Arctic. As the train nears Irkutsk the side view decreases, and the grade of the road is descending, hence the view becomes narrower and less striking each moment, and when the station is reached we are on the river bank. Opposite the narrow front of Irkutsk, the facade, so to speak, the view is much reduced, very inferior to that seen from the train a little earlier. But, as a recompense, we have the Angara before us, that beautifully blue and mighty river gliding past irresistibly, smooth and silent. It is said that the Angara never freezes till Christmas and freezes then in one night to the bottom. The great, blue current of Christmas eve has halted, and on Christmas morning stands motionless. That immense flow is chilled through and through I MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 19 to the river-bed to the point just above freezing, and then becomes ice in one night, as if by magic. The magnificent river is dead till its resurrection, when the sun will break its bonds and lead to life again. There is no city on earth which has such a river in front of it as has Irkutsk — blue, very deep, and moving with a speed that gives the idea of resistless power. Irkutsk seems new except in some of its churches and govern ment buildings. Its streets are wide and unpaved. Its houses mainly of wood, and in large number unpainted. The most interesting and remarkable monument of the city is the triumphal arch to commemorate the winning of a way to the great ocean. That is, the acquisition of the Amoor River by Muravieff, who received the title of count for his exploit in giving communication with the Pacific, and was known thereafter as Count Muravieff Amoorski. We drove through the city and stopped at the hotel Metri- pole. No one came to take the baggage ; the driver got it in as best he could. There was but one vacant room. The furniture was soiled and shabby, the bed hard, the blankets of the coarsest wool. And this was the best hotel in Irkutsk ! In the untidy dining-room I discovered that prices were a third more than in St. Petersburg, that city celebrated for exorbitant prices. In traveling through certain countries and among certain peoples the first requisite is to have letters and proper orders from those high in authority. The Russian Minister of Finance had given me a letter to each governor in Siberia. On delivering my letter to the governor of Irkutsk I was received not merely with much courtesy, but very cordially, and when I explained exactly what I wanted, namely, to study the Mongol language, customs, and religion among the Buriats in regions west and northwest of Lake Baikal, I was assured that every aid which the government could give would be given me. I was furnished with letters to dis trict chiefs, and besides, though I did not know it till later, in structions were forwarded to officials along the road which I was to travel to help me in every way they could. I considered Irkutsk as the starting-point of my investigations into the Mongol world, so far as the Buriat part of it was con- 20 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA cerned. Hence I decided to spend a few days in studying the city and gathering what information I could concerning the people whom I was about to visit. I had letters from friends in St. Petersburg to residents of Ir kutsk, and at the house of one of these gentlemen, Mr. Popoff, editor of The Eastern Review, I spent many pleasant and profitable hours. Years ago Mr. Popoff was exiled to Siberia for political reasons. When free to return to Russia he preferred to remain in Irkutsk. His wife, the daughter of a rich merchant of Kiachta, is a pleasant and cultivated woman, the only person I met in Siberia with whom I could speak English. Mr. Popoff is well acquainted with the country and gave me much valuable information. During my stay in the city I met many people who came to Siberia as exiles, served out their sentence, and are now honored, and, in many cases, wealthy citizens of Irkutsk. At the house of a friend I met Dmitri Petrovich Pershin, then acting Curator of the Irkutsk Museum who, when I told him that I wished to go among, and become acquainted with, the Buriats, said that he knew just the man who could best aid me, a Buriat, who would be in the city in a few days, and that he would introduce us to each other. I visited the Museum, and Dmitri Petrovich showed me its excellent collection with great care. It is mainly devoted to Siberian and Mongolian exhibits. Later in the season I photographed the Curator in one of the most valued articles of the collection, the ceremonial dress of a Buriat Shaman. Two days after my visit to the Museum I called upon Dmitri Petrovich and found that Andrei Mihailovitch Mihailoff, the Buriat, had arrived. Pershin introduced us, and, with a good deal of emphasis, told the old man that I wanted to become ac quainted with his people, and that he must aid me in every way he could. Andrei Mihailovitch was friendly and promised co-operation. but it seemed to me that he was guarded. Though outwardly cordial I thought that he made internal reserves, and would try to satisfy the governor, and also me, without giving much real assistance. I had explained previously to Pershin, and he now told Andrei Mihailovitch, that the authorities in St. Petersburg were anxious MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 21 that I should have every aid possible in getting at the language, ancient beliefs, and customs of the Buriats, and hence would view with favor any exhibition of good-will shown me by his people. A few days after this conversation Dmitri Petrovitch informed me that Andrei Mihailovitch would give me good lodgings at his summer place and bring me in contact with people who could tell much touching Buriat religion and folk-lore. "It is a splendid beginning," said Pershin, who was very en thusiastic. "This man can make you acquainted with all the Buriats. His word is weighty among them. He still adheres to the ancient religion of his people, and can himself tell you much regarding it." "This is very well," thought I. "We shall see how he does it. I shall hope for the best, but keep my eyes open." Dmitri Petrovitch assisted me in finding a good carriage for hire during the time of my journey — a couple of months or more, and in providing an outfit. A suitable carriage is of the utmost importance to any man traveling in Siberia. It must have four qualities: it must be roomy and easy, rain-proof, and strong beyond breaking. These Siberian carriages are made on the system of the American buckboard, but instead of planks or boards, as a spring under the body of the vehicle, poles are used. When rightly constructed the carriage is commodious, there is a cover which can be up or down, and leather aprons which can be attached to the sides to keep the sun or rain out. Sleep in it is easy, and no better vehicle in the daytime is needed for traveling in that country. It is not too heavy, but is strong, and easily repaired. It is made ready for the road in the following manner: First cover the bottom inside with a coarse Siberian-made carpet ; on that carpet place a firm mattress, which should cover the bottom of the vehicle en tirely. Spread on the mattress a thin blanket to protect it. A seat is made with a soft leather trunk, a specialty of Siberia. This trunk should be as long as the inside width of the carriage body. A good supply of pillows for the back and a couple of heavy blankets complete the outfit. It should be stated that when hired the carriage is. perfectly empty. The body is a kind of box somewhat lower on the sides 22 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA than in the middle. It has no seat whatever, except that for the driver, which is in front of the body. There is room behind for a trunk to be strapped on ; there is also some space with the driver. Among the papers given me by the governor there was an order for private horses as well as post horses. Where there are no post stations the inhabitants are obliged to furnish beasts at the same rate as the post stations — three copecks (a cent and a half) a mile for each animal. In due time I had made all preparations, purchased carpet, mattress, and provisions, and was ready to set out for the sum mer dwelling of Andrei Mihailovitch, which is about four versts nearer Irkutsk than the post station Usturdi, the latter being sixty versts distant. At seven o'clock in the morning of July 23, after much effort, all things necessary were in the carriage and we were ready to move into the land of the Buriats. It was at least half an hour later than I had intended starting. The delay was caused by the Yamschik who came without the traces for the side horses of the troika, and had to go back for them. I learned then that tarna- tasses are with and without traces, and that I ought to have men tioned the traces when ordering the horses. The chief of the post station in Irkutsk had promised three good beasts, also an excellent driver, and he had kept his word faithfully. The morning air was fresh, delicious, inspiriting. The horses moved at a gentle trot along the main street, " Great Street," put toward the rising and hilly country which surrounds the Siberian capital. Just beyond the city are broad low pastures where, near the banks of the Angara, immense herds were feeding. From the rising road there are interesting views, one at least of these is very striking. The country is not grand, but is good looking. I have commended the driver, whose name was Nikolai, and he deserves good mention. Had he lived in that age he would have been worthy to compete in a chariot race in the Circus Maximus at Rome. When a couple of miles outside Irkutsk he stopped to loosen the bell on the bow of the middle horse in the troika. That moment the driver of a carriage be- MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 23 hind us urged his horses ahead suddenly at the foot of a long hill, and then drove at the pace he liked, which was somewhat slower than that of our carriage, hence annoying. He seemed to take pleasure in tormenting us. Nikolai waited a few moments till the road widened suffi ciently, then he turned and said in a low voice : "I can go ahead of that scoundrel. Shall I do so?" "I know you are a better man, but have you better horses ?" I asked. "I know my horses," answered Nikolai, and the next moment he had dashed toward the side of the equipage in advance of us; his horses' heads had reached beyond the hind wheels, when the enemy's horses were lashed, and sped up the hill at a great rate. Nikolai shouted to his horses and urged them forward. It was the first race I had ever seen of the kind, a race up hill. Both equipages were drawn by three horses abreast, and the beasts gave a splendid example of exertion as they rose in great springs up that hill road. Nikolai's horses were gaining gradually, but very surely, when the other man, at a point where the road was narrow a second time, guided his horses in such a way as to block the road to our animals. Nikolai was now angry. He made no secret of what he thought of that hostile driver, whose mother's family he declared to be of canine origin, beyond any doubt whatever. He was resigned for the time since he had to be. He drove on and waited till we reached a wide place in the road and were on the hilltop. His horses then sprang forward fiercely. In one moment our carriage was half its length in advance of the other. "Scoundrel!" shouted Nikolai, as he turned and looked back. "I '11 show thee how to meet decent people !" The enemy urged on his horses, lashed them, but he could not win now. Nikolai gained on him steadily till the end of the level land was reached, when he was perhaps two lengths ahead. At that point the road descended very gently for a mile or more, and then rose with another hill. No man could 24 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA find, or construct a better race course. Nikolai turned for a moment to look at the other man, then with a series of shouts rising higher and higher, and with a deft use of his whip, he im pelled those three horses down that road at full speed. The road was perfectly even so the carriage wheels went around like tops swiftly spinning. Down we went at the pace of wild runaways. At last, and that last came very quickly, I looked around and saw our opponent about half way down the hill, and advancing at the usual pace of good traveling. I called to Nikolai to slacken speed, which he did, and then halted. I discovered at once that the king-bolt of the carriage was almost out ; not more than one inch of it was left in the front axle. Had that inch slipped out in the race down the hill, the horses would have rushed away with the two front wheels and axle, what would have happened to us is unknown, nothing pleasant in any case. A large stone was soon found to drive the king-bolt to its place, but it would not remain there till fastened, very clumsily, with ropes. The beaten man stopped his horses when down the hill, and seemed to be mending his harness. He did not approach us a second time. At the first post station, which is called Homutooka, a black smith was found, who put a firm strip of iron through the lower end of the king-bolt and fixed it securely ; for which he charged fifteen copecks (seven cents and a half). Post stations are very interesting to the traveler and when well kept, which they are sometimes, are enjoyable places. There are usually a number of people waiting for horses to go in one direction or the other; some one is sure to be drinking tea, or lunching. The man in charge is obliged to furnish, at a fixed price, a samovar, that is a "self-boiler," an urn-shaped vessel with a tube running down through its center. At the lower end of this tube is a space with air holes. Charcoal is ignited in this space and the water in the urn is made to boil soon, since it is exposed to all sides of the tube, which is heated very quickly. Charcoal is added whenever the need comes, thus a good samovar gives boiling water for a long time. The excellency of tea in Russia comes in great part from the samovar, Post Station at Ei.anisin. Page -2-t Hitching in the horses Our Traveling Carriage while Making the Buriat Journey. Page 91 My driver forgot to drop his arms. They always hold the reins in this way when driving rapidly MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 25 as most people assure me, and I believe. The chief place for making samovars is Tula, a city famed for this work throughout Russia. We met at this first station an interesting woman, and found that the driver whom we had defeated was bringing her baggage from Irkutsk, where she had passed the preceding night. She was not more than thirty, and had set out on a journey which many an experienced traveler would hesitate to undertake. With five children, the eldest ten and the youngest a baby, and a nurse, she had started for the Yakuts country in the far north, where her husband was a government official. Weeks would pass before she could reach him. First a long journey with horses, then by boat up the Lena River, and again with horses. Not intending to return she was obliged to change carriages at each station, to unpack and pack all of her luggage — a great task. This she looked after, while the nurse was getting food for the children. Though physically frail she was wonderfully courageous, and love for husband and children seemed to give her strength to overcome all the difficulties of the journey. While the horses were being harnessed and attached to my carriage I had a few moments' conversation with a political exile, a marvelously ragged beggar, who was loitering around the station. He told me that he was the son of a Russian priest, and had been in exile for several years. He was a bright and intelligent young man, but broken in health. I was tempted to drink tea at Homutooka, but something, I know not what, seemed to urge me on, and as soon as the horses were ready they were put to their paces. I was anxious to see how Andrei Mihailovitch lived among summer pastures. Above all I was anxious to learn how he would welcome me. The towns we passed through are straggling and dreary. In most cases the houses are surrounded by a high board en closure, again one end of a house is visible, the fence meeting it on both sides. The blinds and outside casings of the windows are painted white, the body of the house has never been painted and in most cases looks to be a hundred years old. Some houses have sunk till the bottoms of the windows are on the ground. There is a huge gate in the board enclosure. The entrance to 26 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA the house is inside the yard. Everywhere in Siberia, no matter how poor or small the house is, the window sills are crowded with plants, usually geraniums, and set into the threshold of the principal door is an iron horseshoe, to bring good luck. At Jerdovski, the next station, we found a samovar boiling, so tea was drunk before fresh horses were ready. The second driver, taken at Homutooka, was not like Nikolai — he was slow, he needed urging. The third driver was a rare person. He had a harelip and was so deaf that it was difficult to talk with him. He heard only a part of what people said, and only a part of what he said could reach the mind of any man. The good thing about him was this : He was a firm driver, and sent his beasts over the road expeditiously. We were crossing a broad plain, dry and treeless. There was no cultivation what ever, but here and there were herds of cows and horses. In the distance were low hills. After some time, an hour and a half perhaps, the driver stopped on a sudden, and said that we had just passed one road by which we might reach the house of Andrei Mihailo vitch. There was another road farther on. The first led over a place little traveled, but more picturesque and more difficult. The second road was the usual and easier one. For me, who had halted on the highway and was looking eastward toward the lands of Andrei Mihailovitch, it was the left-hand road. How was I, who had gathered lore among so many peoples, to take a left-hand road when going to look for primi tive stories among Mongols ? I turned back and took the right-hand road, of course, and did so with good fortune, as we shall find, hurrying on toward the unknown. By that road we came to the rear of Mihailoff's village, instead of the front, which we should have reached by the other road, and met there more quickly and often frequently one of the great facts of life among Buriats ; the chained dogs, which make such an uproar and which are quite unappeasable. No sop to Cerberus is possible among Buriats. If food be thrown to a chained dog at a Buriat house he will gulp down in a flash what is given and then would tear to pieces the stranger who gave it if he could get at him. MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 27 The carriage dashed through the village swiftly, dogs bark ing with fury, at one and another place. Each dog is chained to a fence or to a post driven into the earth very firmly. The beast is held to his place quite unsparingly. Whenever a team or some unknown person comes in sight, the dog rushes for ward as if free; he springs furiously, reaches the end of his chain, and is jerked back with a force like that which he himself has expended. Each dog digs out, near his post, a great cavity with a ridge of fine earth all around.it. He does this by his springing forward and being brought back, by the chain, toward his starting point. Dogs are always kept out of doors. When winter comes, some shelter is made over their posts, but this shelter is not very pleasant, or much protection from wind and storm. On the whole a stranger may justly infer that a dog's life among Buriats is by no means a sinecure. After passing the ordeal of dogs we arrived at the front of my host's summer residence, composed of half a dozen houses enclosed by a high wooden wall, or board fence. After some effort the gate was swung open and we entered the enclosure. There was no one inside save the gate-keeper. So far- as I could see the place was deserted. The gate-keeper informed me, however, that the master of the house was at home, and he pointed to the nearest building on the right, to which I went straightway. On the ground not far from the door was a man, whom I had not noted earlier. He was lying face downward, and, except by the stir of his sides, which showed breathing, made no motion whatever. He was, as I discovered later, in toxicated. I was astonished at the silence around us, since Andrei Mihailovotch had been informed that I would reach his summer dwelling on that day. The gate-keeper announced me, and after waiting a few moments I entered. The master of the house was sitting at the edge of the central square space, in the middle of which the fire burns in every old-fashioned Buriat dwelling. On all the four sides of this space people were sitting and drinking arhi or tarasun. (The liquor is made of milk and distilled in each considerable house among Buriats.) They had the tarasun in a pail and passed it around in a large wooden cup or dipper. 28 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA Some of the women were beyond the stage of being happy or sad. My host, who was very serious, seated me beside himself with honor, offered me tarasun, and soon inquired if I had received the letter despatched by him to the last post station. I replied that I had not. He told me then that his elder son had died suddenly ; he had been ill only a few hours ; this was the day of his funeral. He added that the house would be in mourning for some time. First, according to Buriat custom, there was a period of nine days during which the family stayed at home strictly, and saw no one outside its own circle. He had informed me in the letter of this sudden calamity, and declared in it that it would be impossible for him to receive me. In other words he had written me to stay away, and had forgotten, in his grief, to help me to another lodging place. The virtue of my right-hand road was now evident. Had I taken the left-hand way I should have met the messenger, and have been forced to sleep at the next post station, and shift for myself the following day as best I might be able. When I explained to Mihailoff that I had come in by the right-hand road, he saw at once how I had failed to receive the letter. His man had taken the other, the usual road, and thus missed me. The position was this : I was at a house not open on that day to visitors, but I was there unwittingly, in innocence ; nay more, I was there by right, for • I had been invited. After thinking a moment or two my host rose and said, "You must come to my other house." We set out for the other house which stood on the opposite side of the broad en closure. On the way he said : " First of all you must drink tea with me. I will order a samovar to be made ready." We entered a neatly furnished house, built and furnished on the Russian plan, a samovar was brought in, and a table was soon covered with various small dainties. "I wish you to eat some beef of my own rearing," said Mihailoff, who drank vodka freely and cheered up considerably. In due time chopped steaks were placed on the table. My host drank more vodka, and we attacked the lunch cheerily. MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 29 The steak finished, we had tea a second time; the beverage was excellent, deserving all the praise which I could give it. By the time the lunch was over Mihailoff had become much more cordial, and at the end embraced and lifted me off the floor, expressing himself as greatly satisfied with my friendship. Then he said that I could go to his son's house at Usturdi, the next station, and make my headquarters there as long as con venience would lead me to do so. His second son, Vassili, was taking care of the place. Then, as the highest mark of favor, he took me to his yurta and showed me his "Ongons" and "Burkans" (household gods), hung up on a rafter in a dark corner of the room, and said that in his time he had entertained three Russian governors but had not shown them his "sanc tuary." He showed it now because he felt such a deep affection for me. As the hour was inclining rather closely to evening, and the distance to Usturdi was somewhat more than three miles, I thought it well to leave my host to his family at the earliest. So the carriage was summoned and drawn up outside the gate where we were to enter it. The harelipped and deaf driver had received a good share of food and drink since his coming, — especially drink, so that it was still more difficult to under stand what he said and be understood by him. When we were ready to continue our journey and had taken our seats in the carriage, the horses, instead of going for ward, turned on their hind legs, stood as erect as if they had been men, then suddenly plunged toward the station from which they had come. The driver, much roused by milk liquor, became very angry when told to turn and drive three miles farther, to Usturdi. He obeyed but spent his rage on the horses, urging them over the open country at a furious pace. The road was simply a wagon track, a mark along a level field. On they rushed for a time in the fashion of runaways. I shouted at the deaf, hare- lipped driver to slacken the speed of his horses, but without result in the least degree. There was no way to stop the man except to seize and hold him. He was in a state not uncommon with Buriats, — he was exultant, beside himself. His mind was 30 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA excited while his body seemed sober. So on went the carriage almost as swiftly as during the race of that morning. Presently we approached a broad, rather shallow river. No decrease of speed was apparent. In we dashed furiously. The water reached to the knees of the horses and the front axle of the carriage. I was alarmed, for I thought there might be stones or deep places to avoid, but the dripping horses and carriage soon rose on the opposite bank, and the wild shouts of the driver urged the beasts forward again over a gray, dry, grassless plain. On and on they sped untiringly. To one who believed in meta morphosis those three beasts might have seemed men who had been changed into horses and who, hunted by the Furies sitting there on the carriage box behind them in the person of that harelipped mad driver, were rushing on with all their might, and in terror, to escape Divine vengeance. No one could tell whether the horses were running away or were driven to the utmost. At last I saw near the roadside ahead of us the Russian church outside Usturdi, the station to which we were hasten ing. Soon after the church was passed we thundered across a massive wooden bridge, and rushed into the main, and almost only street of the village. About two squares from the bridge stood the house in which Andrei Mihailovitch's late son had resided. Vassili, his only surviving son, was there in authority ; in care of the place and the business. The father had given me a brief letter to Vassili, to insure a proper reception. The house was two stories high, the best building in the village. Beyond, and belonging to it, was another house used for storage ; behind the two was a deep courtyard entirely hidden by a very high fence and a gate with strong beams above it. A man, who stood near as we drove up, knocked at this gate for us, but we had to wait many minutes for an answer. Vassili, or Vassya, as he was called by every one, was occupied elsewhere, and had had no notice that guests were coming. It was neces sary to wait till a servant inside could be found and the master informed that his presence .was needed. After a time Vassili came and opened the gate promptly. On hearing that I had come from his father with a letter he MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 31 immediately put the upper part of the house at my disposal. It consisted of three rooms, and a glass enclosed balcony pro jecting over the street. From this balcony there were excellent views up and down the main road or street, and out over the broad fields, and beyond them to the range of mountains in front of us. It was about seven o'clock and the samovar was made ready. That was all that we needed, for I had brought plenty of tea from Irkutsk, and a good supply of sukari, or rusks, which with tea are excellent. A couple of hours later we had supper and Vassili conversed with me until eleven o'clock. This young Buriat proved to be a very interesting person. He was at that time a student at the Irkutsk gymnasium. He had passed six years there, and intended to work still another year. Besides studying he had read a good deal, and knew something of great problems in science and also in history. He could talk about Darwin, and the descent of man, and had some knowledge of chemistry. Above all, and for me that was the main point, he knew considerable about his own people, the Buriats. I congratulated him very heartily on being one of a people who had preserved their primeval religion, and who still held to the customs and beliefs of their remote ancestors. I told him that the Buriats were the only Eastern Mongols who had done this, an act which might be considered an exploit and a service to science. After supper Vassili asked me about my experiences of that day. I described the first race, and then the terrible driving of the harelipped isvoschik, at the rate of what Hungarians call "horse death speed." Wearied greatly after that afternoon of racing and movement and many surprises, I was glad to lie down and rest. I slept till some time after dawn. Rising, I went at once to the balcony. The morning was delightful, the air clear and invigorating. In the fields opposite, perhaps a mile away, were herds of cattle and many sheep pasturing with remarkable activity. During the early forenoon I saw from that balcony, for the first time, a party of mounted Buriats. This party was twenty- five in number. The men had their feet in short stirrups, and 32 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA sat leaning forward a little. The movement of Mongol horses is peculiar. Their steps, which seem short, are made quickly and the result is a more rapid advance than any one, not knowing those horses, could imagine. There are two modes of movement^ made by man-serving beasts which are highly deceptive to the eye that is unpractised : the stride of a pacing camel, and the trotting step of a Mongol saddle horse. As I was riding once on a donkey through the quarries of Assuan;"near the first Cataract of the Nile, several camels appeared on a sudden. I noticed that they were pacing. Being occupied, I dropped them out of sight for the moment, but looked again a little later. They had gone a great distance considering the interval, and though they did not seem to exert themselves much they were moving over that sand field very swiftly. The land now rose before them gently, but rose enough to form a hill which covered the horizon of the plain beyond in such wise as to hide any animal from a man standing where I was. I looked at the moving camels, a littie while later they were on the flat, wide hilltop, and soon after their legs seemed to enter the earth. I turned my eyes from them purposely now and waited. I waited some minutes, then looked again. The camels had vanished. On the hill there was nothing save two or three old stone structures, like gravestones in the sand. That morning the Buriat horses were remarkable for quick stepping, but when near by their speed was not evident. The more they receded the more noticeable it was. I stepped in from the balcony, walked across the front room a few times and went out again ; the horses had advanced a long distance, they were far away, growing smaller and smaller very rapidly. I watched and saw them diminish. At last, when very small, they turned to the right and vanished behind a building. I could not help thinking then and there of two wonderful ani mals, and the part which they have played in the history of mankind, namely, the Mongol horse and the Arabian camel. What a mighty factor the Mongol horse has been! That horse which traversed all regions between the Amoor River and Burma, and all lands between the Yellow Sea and the Adriatic. No animal so enduring, no animal so easy to feed, has ever been MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 33 in man's service. It found its own living. Mongol movement and conquest would have been impossible without Mongol horses. It is not without reason that in Mongol mythology the horse in many junctures is more sagacious than the hero who rides him. In the myths of that country, the horse, in addition to his service, often gives wise directions and saving counsels. Without camels not only would life in the Arabian desert be impossible, but the religion of Mohammed would not have been founded, or if founded could not have been extended. I turned now to Vassya for information touching those horse men. Why had so many assembled and whither were they going ? He replied that on that day there was to be a wedding, or more correctly the fraction of a wedding, since among Buriats a wedding requires several days for its completion, and some times there are even many months between the first and the final ceremony. "Would you like to go to-day?" asked he. I replied that it would give me much pleasure to see a Buriat wedding, or even a part of it. Horses were ordered at the post station, and in half an hour we were ready for the journey. It was a little later than ten o'clock. Because of his recent bereavement Vassya himself did not go, but his place was taken by his brother-in-law, Lazareff, who lived in Shavarok, the village where the first instalment of the wedding was given on that bright day in July, 1900. Lazareff is a cross-eyed widower; a shrewd, self-concen trated man whose mind is turned altogether toward material questions. His wife, Vassya's sister, had been dead only a few months. Three horses were put to my carriage and we dashed off with all speed. Driving at this season of the year is very agreeable, especially in the morning. The speed of the horses is exhilarat ing and gives just the movement of air which is pleasant. The excitement and rush please me; there is nothing like it in America. While on the way to the village of Shavarok, Lazareff ex plained many matters connected with marriage, and life among 34 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA Buriats in general. That information, with more won from Vassya, I give later on in this volume. The village is about four miles from Usturdi, and is very picturesque. Some distance up on a hillside is a level platform of land. On this platform stands Shavarok. Above is another slope extending to the top of the hill unbrokenly. From that point there is an extensive view. I counted fourteen villages. Every one in Shavarok was rejoicing, the holiday was general. The people had but one object in view: to celebrate a part of the wedding, and spend the day in drinking and feasting. The houses, save that of the bride's father, were deserted. In his house there was a crowd of people. Just opposite the door sat the three matchmakers, old women, who looked as though they would have a good deal to say in affairs generally. An aged man stood in the center of the room. He was speaking, with face turned upward, imploring the gods to send happiness and prosperity to the bride and groom. After a time he threw tarasun up toward the central opening of the roof, spoke on, and then threw tarasun to the gods a second time. Many people were sitting on the grassy slope above the vil lage. The central space, devoted to hitching-posts for horses, had been turned into a temporary grove. Some dozens of young birch trees had been felled and thrust into the ground to give shade to the horses. The twenty-five which had passed Usturdi in the morning, and many others, were there. After walking around for a time we went to the hillside and found there a multitude of people, not only from that village, but from many other villages in the region about. They were sitting on the ground in groups, disposed like three sides of a quadrangle, two sides of which lay up and down the hill, the third side connecting the other two at the top. The lower side was open and unoccupied. Through this open space people passed in and out, some bringing refreshments, which con sisted mainly of tarasun (milk whiskey) and boiled mutton; others joined the feasters and sitting down on the hillside, talked, laughed, and amused themselves. Meanwhile men bearing tarasun from group to group poured to each person who wished it. The people seemed to be tasting MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 35 delight as they sat there. They were not noisy, or in any wise extravagant, but they talked and laughed as if that beautiful day and the event of it were giving them every good thing which they could wish for. Gazing around, I saw on the ridge of the hill a flock of sheep followed by a man, who had a long white beard. I went up to look at the flock and found that the shepherd was a Russian. As usual when Russians are working for Buriats, he was an ex-convict, old, but strong. He was alone in the world, follow ing those sheep for sustenance, living among strangers and waiting, there in Siberia, for his life to end. When I had returned to the feasting people on the slope I was conducted again to the house of the bride's father, where in the unsodded yard we found a large company of young people dancing with might and main, dancing desperately, dancing as if the future happiness, not only of the young couple, but of all the Buriat people, depended on their energy. The air above and around them for some distance was filled with a cloud of dust, which was growing denser and denser. It seemed to me that if their strength should continue and their swiftness increase they would in time become invisible in that wonderful dust cloud. After I had watched them a few moments Lazareff took me to his yurta, or house, at the opposite end of the village. This village fronted the south, hence the single door of each house in it opened on the south. Every Buriat house which is built in the old way is eight-sided, the door is in the middle of that side which faces the south directly. This house has a wooden floor, which is raised above the ground somewhat. In the center is a rectangular space where there is no floor, and where the earth appears. In this space the fire is made on the ground, and directly above, in the roof, is an opening, or smoke hole. There are no partitions in the building. The only privacy obtained is by means of curtains. Trunks or boxes are used as wardrobes and storerooms. The central fire is the great point of assembly. Though many Buri ats, especially those who are wealthy, build in the Russian style, particularly winter houses, even they find most delight in the 36 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA old-fashioned octagonal house, with its central fire, around which they sit on the edge of the raised floor with their feet on the earth space. There they assemble in the evening, or when ever it suits them, gossip, transact business, and talk of what ever interests those present. From time to time a great open vessel, or pail, holding a gallon or more of tarasun is passed from one to another. In this pail is a wooden dipper and each person helps himself to the liquor. Lazareff's house was thoroughly Buriat in structure and arrangement, but it was remarkably neat, quite a pattern of tidiness. I saw a good many yurtas after that, but none as clean as was Lazareff's. An old Russian woman cared for his little son and had charge of the house. This no doubt explained the unusual neatness of the place. Tea of good quality was brought now and cakes to go with it. While we were drinking tea a sandy-haired Russian, an exile, came in, a pleasant, good- looking man. He said that his home was in the Crimea but for political reasons he had been sent to live among the Buriats. At this time, however, he had only one year longer to remain. His eyes lighted up with happiness when he spoke of his ap proaching freedom. In passing from Lazareff's yurta to the carriage there was a chance to finish my survey of the village. The earth was cov ered with dust which in the middle of the space occupied reached to the ankles as one walked through it. This stratum, thicker in some places, covered everything to the rim of the village, reaching to the outer houses and beyond them, growing thinner toward the open country till at last one could note it no longer. This dust is the dried and pulverized droppings of animals, ' such as sheep, horses, and horned cattle. In time of thaw and rain the droppings become a soft mud, in dry, warm weather they are turned into dust. When the days are calm the dust keeps its place and people wade through it; when the wind blows, it fills the air in all directions and is carried into each chink, cranny, and little crevice, into the smallest places. People breathe it, swallow it, drink it, eat it, live, move and have their being in it. We returned now to Usturdi, leaving behind us that village MY JOURNEY TO THE BURIATS 37 on the hillside with its pursuits and its passions, which in the main are the same as those of man everywhere, namely: to call human life into existence, and when that new life is here to support it; or in some cases destroy it, in others live on it, in still others toil or even die for it. The motives are the same in all countries, only the details are different. CHAPTER m COLLECTING MYTHS- THE day following the wedding Andrei Mihailovitch came over from his summer place. He was supposed to remain at home for nine days, still he came. After a while he invited me to walk along the street with him. We went the whole length of the village. He met a number of people, who showed im mense respect for him ; he kissed one man, but there was much condescension in his kiss. The grandeur of the old Buriat as he led me, an American, on exhibition through the town, was truly fine. We stood for a time on the long bridge across the Kuda, talked a little, and looked at the river, the country, and the Russian Mission Church. "Bishops and priests," said Mihailovitch, "have asked me to be baptized, but I would not. I will stay with the beliefs into which I was born." Just then a man appeared, racing on horseback at the highest speed. There seemed to be in the horse and man a peculiar impetus and internal force. Without decreasing the pace of the horse the man turned toward Andrei Mihailovitch, and, during the instant in which he was passing, saluted him with the highest respect. Soon the man was beyond the Mission Church, and next he was a speck on the horizon. "Think," said I to my host as I watched the horseman, " of the time when Jinghis Khan had a cavalry of one hundred thousand men like that man and more than two hundred thou sand horses swifter than that horse." "Oh," replied he, "there was never on earth anything to equal the cavalry of Jinghis Khan. It swept everything down before it ! What have we now ? — Nothing. We were great COLLECTING MYTHS 39 once, we conquered many countries, we ruled many peoples. China and Russia overpowered us, but our turn will come again." We went back to the balcony and talked long over the ques tion of finding men who could tell the ancient myths and ex plain the customs and beliefs of the Buriats. A list was made, and that afternoon the search began. Messengers were sent to surrounding villages to look for wise men. Those who were able were to be brought to Usturdi, if possible. In case they were old and decrepit I could go to them. The first and most important step was to find persons who knew what I wanted and would tell it. The number found was small. Some had gone on visits to distant places and were inaccessible, others had known much years before, but had forgotten almost everything. In the first attempt only two old men were discovered. These two promised to come the following day. They came, gave some information, told one story, good as far as it went, but told too briefly. The story was of Esege Malan, or Father Bald Head (Father Bald Head is the highest heaven itself), and Ehe Tazar, Mother Earth. It is given farther on in this volume, with other myths. Other men were found after those two, but none came who were at all satisfactory till Manshut appeared. He told three stories : Gesir Bogdo, Ashir Bogdo, and The Iron Hero. When Manshut had finished these three stories he declared that he was forced to go home. I was greatly disappointed, for I was convinced that he knew more myths. Though he prom ised earnestly to come again and tell me all that he could re member I was doubtful about his return, for he was a restless man and seemed to dislike anything that required concentrated attention. He was a great lover of the pipe and smoked con tinually, drew whiffs between sentences, even between words. As talking seemed to interrupt his smoking, at least to a certain extent, I felt that I should not see him again until he needed more money for tobacco. Early in the morning of July 30th a procession of long- bodied one-horse wagons crowded with men and women passed through the main street of Usturdi. These men and women 40 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA were convicts from Russia, and a stalwart soldier, carrying a rifle, walked by the side of each wagon. A halt was called on the first open field beyond the village. The dusty wagons were at once abandoned, and the crowd of convicts, falling into groups, began to build fires and prepare tea. Meanwhile the soldiers formed a circle around the entire party and stood on guard. There were two hundred and seventy-four of these men and women. They were on the way to the Lena River, and farther north to the frozen Yakuts country. They had received sentence before the ukas abolishing exile to Siberia had been issued, and were specially interesting as being, perhaps, the last group of prisoners to be sent into that country, which has so long been used as a place for exile and punishment. Following the con victs came a small party of political prisoners, but they were allowed to stop at the post station for rest and refreshment. The crowd sitting on the ground ate brown bread and drank tea with great relish. The soldiers conducting the prisoners did not fare better than the prisoners, in fact they did not fare as well, for I saw them receive merely large pieces of rye bread ; at this halt they were not given tea. It seemed to me that by united action the convicts with naked hands might overpower the soldiers, for though the soldiers were alert fellows with much presence of mind, they were few in number. The impression produced by these people was peculiar. They were all strong and sturdy, mainly of the peasant class. They were by no means downcast, grieved, or troubled. Forty of them were manacled, and even those men seemed in no way affected. One could not think while looking at these convicts that they were an oppressed and punished people. I was very anxious to talk with some of them, but it was not permitted to go inside the line of soldiers. After a rest of an hour or so command was given to "raise camp," and five minutes later fires had been stamped out, kettles packed, and the long-bodied wagons were again moving forward over the dusty road. I then went to visit Andrei Mihailovitch at his summer place. When about a mile and a half from his house I met him riding The Baggage of the Convicts and Provisions for them are Carried in this Way. Page 40 Convicts Passing through the Village of Usturdi. Page 39 COLLECTING MYTHS 41 over to Usturdi in a little one-horse trap. He turned back, however, and drove forward rapidly, so as to reach home and be ready to welcome me. I wished greatly to photograph the "Ongons" or gods supposed to protect his house and property. I was doubtful about getting his consent, but he gave it with many pleasant words. I first photographed those that guard the home and are always hanging high up in one corner of the house. Then I went out to photograph the Ongons that guard the property. They were in a box having a door made of four small panes of window glass; this box was fastened to the top of a corner post of the carriage shed. With much difficulty it was unscrewed, and brought down and placed where I could photograph the gods which it contained. Andrei Mihailovitch could not carry these gods into a house nor could he take them out of the box, for that would bring misfortune to the family. Inside the large box were two small boxes of home manu facture. In these were crude pictures of the gods, tiny men and women in outline, also the skin of a ground squirrel, and one or two other dried skins of very small animals. When these were photographed Andrei Mihailovitch invited me to visit his winter home, saying that on the way we would pass his field Ongons. We drove over level pastures to the hill eastward, climbed rather slowly to the top and, after we had passed a gate, de scended gradually to the brow of the hill, or rather to a point of the slope, whence there is a fine view of the country beyond : several villages, a narrow, winding river, and, somewhat to the left, the winter residence of my host. On the brow of the hill is a collection of twenty-five or thirty pillars, or hewn posts, with four flat sides. Across the top of each post a small board is so fastened that it projects on the east side like half a roof. Under this roof, in a square aperture in the post, is a small box with handle and sliding cover. The aperture also has a sliding cover which protects and secures the box inside. Andrei Mihailovitch took the box out of his own post, opened it and showed me the gods which were on pieces of silk or cloth. Fastened on a narrow strip of blue silk were several little metal images. On two small pieces of cloth were tiny painted figures. 42 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA I photographed the pillars, and then tied the images around a pillar and photographed them as best I could. After I had finished Andrei Mihailovitch took the pieces of cloth from the pillar, folded them carefully, put them back in the box, and, placing the box on the ground near a small pile of dry juniper, which our driver had collected for him, lighted the herb. When it was burning well he put his foot on it three separate times to make it smoke and quench it. In the box, purified by the smoke, Andrei Mihailovitch placed a little bag of tobacco, which he had taken from it, then he closed the box, put it back in the pillar, and covered the aperture. Everything was done with the greatest care and reverence. Each Buriat, as soon as he marries and has a home, must set up in the field one of these posts or pillars and place images of his gods in it. The Shaman assists him. When a man dies the box containing his Ongons is removed from the pillar, carried to the forest and hung high up on a tree, and there it remains till it rots away. The person carrying the Ongon from the pillar to the forest must not look back; should he do so it would bring great misfortune to the family of the dead man. Andrei Mihailovitch's winter house is built on the Russian plan with large brick stoves in the partitions between the rooms. In the yard, however, are two or three eight-cornered Mongol houses where I think the family lives during winter unless some "governor" happens along. Toward evening I started for Usturdi. The road was through a hilly or rolling country. We passed several rye fields, but with one or two exceptions the grain was very poor. After crossing an elevated ridge we came down into an opening in a forest of small timber — just such a weird opening as Sienkiewicz de scribes in "The Deluge" — and later on we reached another and larger opening, a remarkably lonely looking place in the dusk of approaching night, and there we came upon a Russian. He was uncouth, sturdy, and somehow uncanny. His horse was feeding near a cart, and the man himself was occupied in smoking, and in stirring something which he was boiling in a kettle over a small fire. He did not notice us or answer my greeting. One Grolt of Convicis Resting and Lunching. Page 40 Buriat Wedding. Page 4-2 The first three women in the foreground are the matchmakers COLLECTING MYTHS 43 It was late in the evening when we reached Usturdi. A few days passed now, during which I made no effort to get story-tellers but spent my time in studying the language. On the 2d of August the Horse Sacrifice was to be made and I needed to bring my work into order and prepare for this re markable ceremony. The Buriat country is one of two places in Asia where the Horse Sacrifice may still be seen. This ceremonial has existed among the Mongols from time immemorial and is a wonder fully interesting survival of a primitive religion. Andrei Mihailovitch had finished his mourning now and he came over to be present at the great festival. With all his polite ness I felt sure that he was not anxious that I should see the death of the horses, — on the contrary, that he was determined I should not see it. He said to me the evening preceding the sacrifice and then again the following morning: "I will leave about nine o'clock; that is very early. If you start an hour later you will have plenty time." The evening before, however, I had made sure that horses would be waiting at the post station near by, and within ten min utes after the departure of my host I was driving rapidly across the country. When we had gone a mile or so my driver wished to get a drink of milk at a house by the wayside. He was terribly .thirsty, he said. He was as dilatory as might be in getting the milk, then drank a whole gallon, I should think. After that we drove on very slowly. I urged and urged, but still he would not hurry the horses. Later, when more than halfway to the Hill of Sacrifice he was again about to stop before a house. I would not permit a halt this time, and commanded him to hasten forward. When at last we reached the Hill I found that seven out of nine horses had been sacrificed already. Two fine, white mares remained. I had come very near losing the ceremony. The two, however, were ampng the best animals, and as every detail was observed in their case, there was a chance to see the sacrifice. The death of the two was sufficiently painful. CHAPTER IV THE HORSE SACRIFICE THE Tailgan, or Horse Sacrifice, takes place on a hill called Uher, about seven miles from Usturdi. On this hill fifteen large stone altars have been built. The sacrifice is made by the first and second division of the clan Ashekhabat. In the mytho logical past the founder of this clan lived at Baganteng, perhaps two miles distant from Uher. This first man, or clan founder, had seven sons. He and those sons sacrificed on the hill Uher to the Burkans (masters or gods) of the hill, and to those of the mountain opposite, of whom the chief is Malan Noyon. Of the seven sons five went beyond the Baikal, and there their descendants make sacrifice to this day, but they make it to Baganteng, where their clan originated, — where the tomta1 of the founder is. Long ago they forgot Uher and its divinities. The order of the Tailgan, or Horse Sacrifice, is as follows: About seven o'clock on the morning of the ceremony the various families of the clan send a sufficient number of men to Uher with vessels, tarasun, milk, tea, twigs, trees, and bushes — in fact, with everything needed at the sacrifice. The two liquids drunk are tarasun and that which is called "the white." Generally this is milk, sweet or sour as the case may be, but milk with tea in it is given also, since some persons prefer it. The men sent in advance with supplies and utensils stop about halfway on the road to Uher and sprinkle milk and tarasun to the Burkans of the hill and the mountain, and to all the Burkans that there may be in existence, asking that they give first of all a good Tailgan, and then success and prosperity to those who make the sacrifice. The reality, the essence, of the milk and the tarasun, 1 See ceremonies after the birth of a child, page 96. THE HORSE SACRIFICE 45 goes to the Burkans, immensely increased and incomparably better in quality. Thus a single drop may become a whole barrel- ful when it reaches the home of the deities, when it goes to the mountain and the hill, in both of which there are beautiful dwell ings, invisible to man. On arriving at the Hill of Sacrifice the men sent in advance prepare places for the kettles, hang them on tripods over wood ready to be ignited, and dispose the vessels and other things used in the ceremony. Each family has its place on the hill and not far from some one of the fifteen stone altars. Small birch branches are thrust into the earth at these places. Later, near these branches libations are made ; that is, a few drops of milk are cast into the air to the Burkans, and when tarasun is passed around some of that is also cast into the air. When the crowd assembles fires are lighted. First the horse is purified by being led between the fires (there must be either three, nine, or twenty-seven fires), then it is led up toward the officiating persons, who sprinkle milk on its face, and on the hair halter, and cast some in the air to the gods. After that there is a libation of tarasun, then a prayer or petition is made to all the Burkans. The horse, I should state here, has been led to the right side of a small birch tree which has been brought from a near-by forest; the lower part of the trunk of the tree is on the ground, the upper part and branches rest on a crosspiece. The tree is called "The foot of the place of sacrifice." The officiating men then turn, as they say, "with knee bend ing," first to the ninety western Burkans, then to the four eastern Tuget — Tuget means "complete." These are deities who have come down from the sky and are in the east, but their place is not known exactly. They turn next to the Undir Sagan Tengerin (the lofty clear heaven) ; sprinkling to each deity or group of deities as they name them. Then they implore Uligin Sagan Deda (the revered pure earth). Next in order is Buga Noyon Babai (bull prince father), then comes Budung Yihe Ibi (blessed mother mist), and Zayahung Yihe Zayasha (the creating great one, who has created). This is at present the hedgehog, and in Buriat religion he is the wisest of all the deities, though greatly 46 A JOURNEY IN SOUTHERN SIBERIA supplanted by other gods. Next in order is Zayang Sagan Ten- geri (creator, pure heaven). Then Esege Malan Babai (Grand father Bald Head) ; next Ehe Ureng Ibi, and then Adaha Zayang (creator of cattle) ; and Uha Soldong (the golden Sorrel), which means the light of the sun, the dawn of the morning. The dawn of the morning is creator of horses. Then Hotogov Mailgan (Crooked Back), the goddess of the night heavens and creator of people. All these divinities are addressed by name and in turn, ad dressed very much as saints are in a Christian litany. Those who are officiating appeal to the divinities, and the people follow them, either aloud or mentally. Each man prays usually for what he likes best, or most desires. When this prayer was ended long ropes were tied securely around the fetlocks of the horse, each rope was held by four men, then the eight men in front pulled the forelegs forward and somewhat apart, while the other eight pulled the hindlegs back and apart. The horse fell on its side, and then turned on its back. The sixteen men held the ropes firmly and the beast was utterly helpless. A man, his right arm bare to the shoulder, now came with a long sharp knife and with one blow made a deep incision just behind the breast bone. He thrust his hand into the opening, seized the heart of the horse, and wrenched it free from its connections. The poor beast tried to struggle, but could not, and died very quickly. With the other horse it was somewhat different. The man must have done his work unskilfully, or his hand was weaker, for after he had withdrawn his arm and finished, as he thought, the beast regained its position to the extent of being able to bite the ground in agony. The sight was distressing. Its teeth were bared in a ghastly grin ; the eyes became green and blue, much like the color of certain beetles. A more striking expression of piercing and helpless agony I have never seen. It groaned once with a sound of un speakable anguish, kept its mouth for a moment in the earth and then dropped over lifeless. When the horses were dead men hurried to skin the bodies, quarter them, and remove the flesh from the bones. The bones were then placed on the fifteen stone altars where fires were not merely burning, but roaring. The flesh was put People Assejihi.ed for the Horse Sacrifice. Page I.