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THE SPELL OF THE
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND
THE PHILIPPINES

THE SPELL SERIES

Each volume with one or more colored plates and
many illustrations from original drawings or special
photographs. Octavo, decorative cover, gilt top, boxed.
Per volume, $3.75
By Isabel Anderson
THE SPELL OP BELGIUM
THE SPELL OF JAPAN
THE SPELL OP THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND
the philippines
By Caroline Atwater Mason
the spell op italy
the spell op southern shobeb
the spell op france
By Archie Bell
the spell op china
the spell op egypt
THE SPELL OP THE HOLT LAND
By Keith Clark
the spell op spain
the spell op scotland
By W. D. McCrackan
the spell of tyrol
the spell of the italian lakes
By Edward Neville Vose
the spell of flandebs
By Burton E. Stevenson
the spell of holland
By Julia DeW. Addison
the spell of england
By Nathan Haskell Dole
the spell of switzerland
By Frank Roy Fraprie
the spell of the bhine
By Andre Hallays (Translated by Franz Roy Fuaprie)
THE SPELL OP AXSACE
THE SPELL OF THE HEABT OF PBANCB
THE SPELL OF PROVENCE
By Will S. Monroe
the spell of sicily
the spell of nobway
By Francis Miltoun
THE SPELL OF ALGERIA AND TUNISIA

L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
(incorporated)
53 Beacon Street Boston, Mass.

Mount May on
(See page SOS)

w t» Spell of
The Philippines and
the Hawaiian Islands
. , an Account of ihe Historical and 'Political Conditions
mi Pacific Possessions, together with Descriptions of the
natural Charm and Beauty of ihe Countries and the strange and
interesting Customs of their People*.
Isabel Anderson
Author of " The Spelt of Japan, " " The .: yii of
{Belgium, " etc.

ILLUSTRATED

nrL. c.

BOSTON
PAGE & COMPANY
PUBLISHERS

Copyright, 1916, by
The Page Company
All rights reserved

Made in U. S. A.

Published in November, 1916
Second Impression, June, 1917
Third Impre.ssion, November. 1919

PRINTED BY C. H. SIMONDS COMPANY
BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A.

I DEDICATE THIS BOOK WITH LOVE
TO THE MEMORY OF MY GRANDFATHER
WILLIAM F. WELD
WHOSE SHIPS SAILED UPON THESE
TROPICAL SEAS

FOREWORD
It is my hope that this book about our islands
in the Pacific ocean may be of some interest,
if for no other reason than that there is at
present so much discussion as to whether or
not we should keep the Philippines.
Soon after the close of the Civil "War my fa
ther, who was a naval officer, was sent on a
cruise on the Pacific and stopped for a time
both at Honolulu and Manila. During this
cruise he took part in the occupation and sur
vey of Midway Island, as it is now called — our
first possession in Pacific waters. Many years
later, when my husband and I started on our
first trip to the East, I asked my father if he
would give us letters of introduction to his
many friends there. He replied, "It is a long
time since I visited the islands in the Pacific;
if my friends have forgotten me letters would
do no good, and if they remember me letters
are not necessary." Needless to say, they did
remember him and extended to us the most cor
dial hospitality.
The charm of Hawaii will linger forever in

viii Foreword

our memory — those happy flower islands where
the air is sweet with perfume and gay with
the musical strains of the ukulele. We lived
there for a time before the Islands were an
nexed to the United States and, on another visit,
we had the privilege of accompanying the Sec
retary of War, Hon. J. M. Dickinson, so that
we had exceptional opportunities of seeing both
Hawaii and the Philippines, and of making the
acquaintance of leaders among the Americans
and the natives.
We found the Philippines especially fascinat
ing on account of the great variety they pro
vide. The old world plazas, the flowering Span
ish courtyards, and the pretty women in their
distinctive costume of pina are all enchanting.
Nowhere else in the Far East are the mestizos
— those of mixed blood — socially above the na
tives. The Filipinos are unique in that they
are the only Asiatics who are Christians.
Among the hills, near civilization, live the sav
ages who indulge in the exciting game of head
hunting. The Moros, the Mohammedans of the
southern islands, stand quite by themselves.
They are very picturesque and absolutely un
like their neighbours.
Secretary Dickinson and Governor Forbes
we can never thank enough for the thousand

Foreword ix

and one strange sights we saw, as enchanting as
the tales which Scheherezade told during those
far-off Arabian Nights. I only wish I could
describe them in her delightful style! Of all
the spells what is more puissant than the spell
of the tropics — the singing of dripping water,
the rustle of the palm in the breeze. In this
land you forget all trouble and dream of love
and happiness, while the Southern Cross
gleams brightly in the sky.
There it is indeed true that
"The flower of love has leisure for growing,
Music is heard in the evening breeze,
The mountain stream laughs loud in its flowing,
And poesy wakes by the Eastern Seas."
I wish especially to say how grateful I am
to those who have helped me in one way or an
other, with this book: Admiral George Dewey,
General Thomas Anderson, Major J. E. M.
Taylor, Major William Mitchell, Mr. William
E. Castle, Jr., and Mr. C. P. Hatheway. Mr.
E. K. Bonine was also very kind in allowing me
to reprint some of his photographs of Hawaii.
My thanks are also due to Miss Helen Kimball,
Miss C. Gilman, Miss K. Crosby, and my hus
band, and to all the others who have been so
good as to encourage me in writing the "Spell
of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines."

CONTENTS
Foreword  vii
THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
CHAPTER PAGE
I The Bright Land  3
II Myths and Meles  29
HI The Five Kamehamehas  48
TV Servant and Soil  81
V In and Out  103
THE PHILIPPINES
I Manila as We Found It  123
II The Philippines of the Past  148
III Insurrection  180
IV Following the Flag  206
V Healing a Nation  224
VI Dog-Eaters and Others  245
VII Among the Head-Hunters  270
VIII Inspecting with the Secretary of War . . 296
IX The Moros  325
X Journey's End  353
Bibliography  363
Index ...  365

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Mount Mayon (in full colour) (See page 308) Frontispiece
MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ... 3
Royal Hawaiian Hotel  6
Hon. Sanford B. Dole  9
Surf-boating (in full colour)  17
Making Poi (in full colour)  27
Interior of Hawaiian Grass House .... 33
Ancient Temple Inclosure  37
A Hula Dancer (in full colour)  40
Queen Emma  65
King Kalakaua and Staff  73
"The Tiny Plantation Railway Among the Wav
ing Green Stalks"  82
Pineapple Plantation, Island of Oahu ... 88
Leper Colony, Island of Molokai .... 105
SlLVERSWORD IN BLOOM, IN THE CRATER OF HaLEAKALA 108
Fire Hole, Kilauea  110
On the Shores of Kauai, the "Garden Island" . 115
MAP OF THE PHILIPPINES  121
Governor General Cameron Forbes .... 125
The Pasig River (in full colour)  128
Malacanan Palace  136
Mrs. Anderson in Filipina Costume . . . .139
"Under the Bells"  155
Jose Rizal  170
Fort Santiago  172
A Group of Filipina Ladies  182
Aguinaldo's Palace at Malolos  191
San Juan Bridge  194

List of Illustrations

General Lawton  196
Benguet Road  . . 212
First Philippine Assembly ... . . 215
Osmena, the Speaker of the First Assembly . . 217
A Carabao (in full colour)  225
Penal Colony on the Island of Palawan . . 239
The Party at Baguio  246
Igorot School Girl Weaving  251
Igorot Outside his House  253
Ilongot in Rain-coat and Hat of Deerskin . . 258
Ilongots Returning from the Chase . . . 260
Woman of the Batan Islands with Grass Hood . 264
Constabulary Soldiers  283
Rice Terraces  287
Ifugao Couple .  289
Ifugao Head Dance  293
Weapons of the Wild Tribes  295
Landing at Tobaco  309
A Moro Dato and His Wife, with a Retinue of
Attendants  325
A Moro Grave  329
A Moro Dato's House  336
Bagobo Man with Pointed Teeth . . . 339
Bagobos with Musical Instruments .... 345
Bagobo with Nose Flute  348
Moro Boats  .... 350
One Day's Catch of Fish  356
View in Iloilo, Iloilo, Showing High School
Grounds  358
The Old Augustinian Church, Manila . . . 361

THE SPELL OF THE
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND
THE PHILIPPINES
THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
CHAPTEE I
THE BRIGHT LAND
N our first trip to Hawaii we sailed from
¦i&jj San Francisco aboard the Gaelic with
good, jolly Captain Finch. He was a reg
ular old tar, and we liked him. We little
thought that in 1914 he would have the misfor
tune to be in command of the Arabic when it
was torpedoed in the Atlantic. He showed
great gallantry, standing on the bridge and
going down with his ship, but I take pleasure
in adding that he was saved.
We had an ideal ocean voyage: calm, blue
seas, with a favouring trade wind, a glorious
moon, and strange sights of huge turtles, tropic
birds, and lunar rainbows. We had, too, an un
usual company on board — Captain Gridley, of
Manila Bay fame, then on his way to take
3

4 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
command of the Olympia; Judge Widemann,
a German who had lived for many years
in Honolulu, and had married a Hawaiian
princess; Mr. Irwin, a distinguished American
with a Japanese wife — all old friends of my
father, who, as a naval officer, made sev
eral cruises in the Pacific — Dr. Furness of Phila
delphia, a classmate of my husband's at Har
vard, who was going out to study the head-
hunters of Borneo ; and Mr. Castle, grandson of
one of the early missionaries to Hawaii. He
has since written a charming book oh the Is
lands. After six days on the smooth Pacific, we
caught sight of Oahu, the fairy island on which
Honolulu is situated. Diamond Head stretches
far out into the blue, like a huge lizard guard
ing its treasure — a land of fruits and flowers, of
sugar-cane and palm. The first view across the
bay of the town with its wreath of foliage down
by the shore, just as the golden sun was setting
over the mountain range, was a picture to be re
membered. And in the distance, above Hono
lulu, the extinct crater called Punchbowl could
be seen, out of which the gods of old no doubt
drank and made merry.
An ancient Hawaiian myth of the creation
tells how Wakea, "the beginning," married

The Bright Land

Papa, "the earth," and they lived in dark
ness until Papa produced a gourd calabash.
Wakea threw its cover into the air, and it be
came heaven. The pulp and seeds formed the
sky, the sun, moon and stars. The juice was the
rain, and out of the bowl the land and sea were
created. This country they lived in and called
it Hawaii, ' ' the Bright Land. ' ' There are many
legends told of Papa by the islanders of the
Pacific. She traveled far, and had many hus
bands and children, among whom were "the
father of winds and storms," and "the father of
forests. ' '
As we approached the dock, we forgot to
watch the frolicking porpoises and the silver fly
ing fish, at sight of the daring natives on their
boards riding the surf that broke over the coral
reef. The only familiar face we saw on the
wharf as we landed was Mr. George Carter, a
friend of my husband's, who has since been
Governor of the Islands.
Oahu is a beautiful island, and the town of
Honolulu at once casts its spell upon you, with
the luxuriance of its tropical gardens. There is
the spreading Poinciana regia, a tree gorgeous
with flowers of flame colour, and the "pride of
India," with delicate mauve blossoms ; there are
trees with streaming yellow clusters, called

6 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
"golden showers," and superb date and cocoa-
nut and royal palms, and various kinds of acacia.
BougamviUeas, passion-flowers, alamanders and
bignonias drape verandas and cover walls.
There are hedges of hibiscus and night-blooming
cereus, and masses of flowering shrubs. Every
where there is perfume, colour and profusion,
the greatest wealth of vegetation, all kept in
the most perfect freshness by constant little
passing showers — "marvelous rain, that pow
ders one without wetting him!" Honolulu is
well named, the word meaning "abundance, of
peace," for we found the gardens of the town
filled with cooing doves. It is said the place was
called after a chief by that name in the time of
Kakuhihewa, the only great king of Oahu who is
mentioned before Kamehameha I.
At the time of this visit, in 1897, the total iso
lation of the Islands was impressive, absolutely
cut off, as they were, except for steamers.
Sometimes, moreover, Hawaii was three weeks
without an arrival, so that the coming of a
steamer was a real event. To cable home, one
had to send the message by a ship to Japan and
so on around the world.
After a night at the old Eoyal Hawaiian
Hotel, big and rambling, in the center of a pretty
garden, we started housekeeping for ourselves

wH
C

CP3

The Bright Land

in a little bungalow on the hotel grounds, with a
Chinaman for maid of all work. Here we lived
as if in a dream, reveling in the beauty of land
and sea, of trees and flowers, enjoying the hos
pitality for which the Islands are famous, and
exploring as far as we could some of the en
chanting spots of this heaven on earth.
We were pleased with our little house, with its
wide veranda, or lanai, as it is called there,
which we made comfortable and pretty with
long wicker chairs and Chinese lanterns. Man
goes falling with a thump to the ground outside,
and lizards and all sorts of harmless creatures
crawling or flying about the house, helped to
carry out the tropical effect.
In the four visits that we have made on dif
ferent occasions we have found the climate per
fect ; the temperature averages about 73 degrees.
The trade winds blowing from the northeast
across the Pacific are refreshing as well as the
tiny showers, which follow you up and down the
streets. There is not a poisonous vine or a
snake, or any other creature more harmful than
the bee ; but I must confess that the first night at
the old hotel, the apparently black washstand
turned white on my approach as the water bugs
scuttled away. Nothing really troubled us but
the mosquitoes, which, by the way, did not exist

8 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
there in the early days, so must have been taken
in on ships.
The Islands have been well called "the Para
dise of the Pacific" and "the playground of the
world." The five largest in the group, and the
only important ones, are Hawaii, about the size
of Connecticut, Maui, Oahu, Kauai and Molokai.
The small ones are not worth mentioning, as
they have only cattle and sheep and a few herds
men upon them. They are formed of lava — the
product of numberless volcanic eruptions — and
the action of the sea and the rain, combined with
the warm climate and the moisture brought by
the trade winds, has resulted in the most varied
and fascinating scenery. Mark Twain, who
spent many months there, said of them, ' ' They
are the loveliest group of islands that ever
anchored in an ocean," and indeed we were of
his opinion.
At that time the Islands formed an independ
ent republic, under Sanford B. Dole as Presi
dent, the son of Bev. Daniel Dole, one of the
early missionaries. He was educated at Puna-
hou, meaning new spring, now called Oahu Col
lege, and at Williams College in the States. He
came to Boston to study law, and was admitted
to the bar. But Hawaii called him, as if with a
forecast of the need she would have of his serv-

HON. SANTORD B. DOLE.

The Bright Land

ices in later days, and he went back to Oahu,
where he took high rank among the lawyers in
the land of his birth, and became judge of the
Supreme Court. After the direct line of Kame-
hameha sovereigns became extinct, and the easy
going rule of their successors culminated in the
high-handed attempt of Queen Liliuokalani to
restore the ancient rites and also to turn the
island into a Monte Carlo, Judge Dole was the
one man who understood both parties and had
the confidence of both, and he was the unani
mous choice of the best element of the popula
tion for president.
Of course we visited the buildings and local
ities in Honolulu that were of interest because
of their connection with the existing government
or their history in the past. The Executive
Building — the old palace, built by King Kala-
kaua and finished in the finest native woods —
and the Court House, which was the Government
Building in the days of the kings ; the big Kawai-
ahao Church, built of coral blocks in 1842, and
the Queen's Hospital, all are in the city, but they
have often been described, so I pass them by
with only this mention. The first frame house
ever erected in the Islands deserves a word, as
it was sent out from Boston for the missionaries.
It had two stories, and in the early days its tiny

10 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
rooms were made to shelter four mission
families and twenty-two native children, who
were their pupils.
Oahu College, too, interested us. It was built
on the land given by Chief Boki to Hiram
Bingham, one of the earliest missionaries, who
donated it to his coworkers as a site for a school
for missionary children. The buildings stand
in a beautiful park of ninety acres, in which are
superb royal palms and the finest algaroba trees
in Honolulu. Long ago, in the days of the rush
for gold to California, boys were sent there for
an education from the Pacific Coast.
The great aquarium at Waikiki, the bathing
suburb of Honolulu, I found particularly fasci
nating. There does not exist in the world an
aquarium with fishes more peculiar in form or
colouring than those at Waikiki, unless the new
one in the Philippines now surpasses it. About
five hundred varieties of fish are to be found in
the vicinity of the Islands. The fish are of
many curious shapes and all the colours of the
rainbow. Some have long, swordlike noses,
and others have fins on their backs that look like
feathers. One called the "bridal veil" has a
lovely filmy appendage trailing through the wa
ter. The unusual shapes of the bodies, the ex
traordinary eyes and the fine colouring give

 The Bright Land  11
many of them a lively and comical appearance.
Even the octopus, the many-armed sea creature,
seemed wide awake and gazed at the onlookers
through his glass window.
An afternoon was spent in the Bishop
Museum, which is very fine and well equipped,
its collection covering all the Pacific islands. I
was chiefly interested in the Hawaiian curios,
— the finely woven mats of grass work and the
implements of the old days. Here, too, was the
famous royal cloak of orange, made of feathers
from the mamo bird.1 It was a work of pro
digious labour, covering a hundred years. This
robe is one of the most gorgeous things I have
ever seen and is valued at a million dollars.
There were others of lemon yellow and of
reds, besides the plumed insignia of office, called
kahili, which were carried before the king.
Our guide through the museum was the curator,
Professor Brigham, who had made it the great
est institution of its kind in the world.
This museum is a memorial, created by her
husband, to Bernice Pauahi Bishop, great-
granddaughter of Kamehameha I and the last
descendant of his line. Bernice Pauahi was the
i When the mamo became rare the natives began to substi
tute the light yellow feathers growing under the wings of the
o-o. 'This bird is now extinct.

12 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
daughter of the high chief Paki and the high
chieftainess Konia. She was born in 1831, and
was adopted in native fashion by Kinau, sister
of Kamehameha III, who at that time had no
daughters of her own. Her foster sister, Queen
Liliuokalani, said of her, "She was one of the
most beautiful girls I ever saw."
At nineteen she married an American, Hon.
Charles B. Bishop, who was collector of customs
in Honolulu at that time. She led a busy life,
and used her ability and her wealth to help
others. She understood not only her own race
but also foreigners, and she used her influence in
bringing about a good understanding between
them. In 1883, the year before her death, she be
queathed her fortune to found the Kamehameha
School for Hawaiian boys and girls. This
school has now a fine group of stone buildings
not far from Honolulu.
The Lunalilo Home was founded by the king
of that name for aged Hawaiians. When we
visited it, we were particularly interested in one
old native who was familiar with the use of
the old-time musical instruments. This man,
named Keanonako, was still alive two years ago.
He was taught by his grandfather, who was re
tained by one of the old chiefs. He played on

 The Bright Land  13
three primitive instruments — a conch shell, a
jew 's-harp and a nose flute. The last is made of
bamboo, and is open at one end with three per
forations ; the thumb of the left hand is placed
against the left nostril, closing it. The flute is
held like a clarinet, and the fingers are used to
operate it. Keanonako played the different
notes of the birds of the forest, and really gave
us a lovely imitation. The musical instruments
in use to-day are the guitar, the mandolin, and
the ukulele. The native Hawaiians are very
musical and sing and play well, but the music is
now greatly mixed with American and Euro
pean airs.
It was always entertaining to drive in the
park, where we listened to the band and watched
the women on horseback. In those days the na
tive women rode astride wonderfully well and
looked very dignified and stately, but one does
not see this superb horsemanship and the old
costumes any more. They did indeed make a
fine appearance, with the pans, long flowing
scarfs of gay colours, which some of them wore
floating over their knees and almost reaching
the ground, while their horses curvetted and
pranced. One of the amusements was to go down to the
dock to see a steamer off and watch the pretty

14 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
custom of decorating those who went away with
leis — wreaths of flowers — which were placed
around the neck till the travelers looked
like moving bouquets and the whole ship at last
became a garden. When large steamers sailed
the whole town went to the wharf, and the
famous Eoyal Hawaiian Band — which Captain
Berger, a German, led for forty years — played
native airs for an hour before the time of sail
ing. It was an animated and pretty sight at the
dock, for the natives are so fond of flowers that
they, too, wear leis continually as bands around
their hats, and they bring and send them as
presents and in compliment. Steamers arriving
at the port were welcomed in the same charming
fashion. Judge Widemann kindly asked us to dine and
view his wonderful hedge of night-blooming
cereus. The good old Judge who had married
the Princess had three daughters; two of the
girls were married to two brothers, who were
Americans. All the daughters were attractive,
and the youngest, who was the wife of a German,
was remarkably pretty. It was strange at first
to see brown-skinned people in low-necked white
satin dinner gowns, and to find them so cultured
and charming.
We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Castle, also with

 The Bright Land  15
old Mrs. Macfarlane at Waikiki. We enjoyed
our evening there immensely. Sam Parker,
"the prince of the natives," and Paul Neumann,
and Mrs. Wilder, too, all great characters in
those days, were very kind to us. Many of them
have passed away, but I shall always remember
them as we knew them in those happy honey
moon months.
All the mystic spell of those tropical evenings
at Waikiki lives in these lines by Bupert
Brooke :
"Warm perfumes like a breath from vine and tree
Drift down the darkness. Plangent, hidden from eyes,
Somewhere an eukaleli thrills and cries
And stabs with pain the night's brown savagery.
And dark scents whisper; and dim waves creep to me,
Gleam like a woman's hair, stretch out, and rise;
And new stars burn into the ancient skies,
Over the murmurous soft Hawaiian sea."
I took great pleasure in going to Governor
Cleghorn's place. He is a Scotchman who mar
ried a sister of the last king, and was at one time
governor of this island. Many years ago, my
father brought home a photograph of their
beautiful daughter, then a girl of fourteen, who
died not long after. Mr. Cleghorn's grounds
were superb — old avenues of palms and flower
ing shrubs, and shady walks with Japanese
bridges, and pools of water filled with lilies. A

16 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
fine view of the valley opened out near the
house. There were really two connected
houses, which were large and built of wood,
with verandas. One huge room was filled with
portraits of the Hawaiian royal family and some
prints of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.
There were knickknacks everywhere, and teak-
wood tables and chairs, poi bowls made by hand,
and primitive stone tools. We were served
with lemonade by two Japanese servants in the
pretty costume of their land, while tea was
served by a picturesque Chinese woman at a
table on the veranda.
Besides these informal entertainments, there
were various official functions. One was a de
lightful musicale at President Dole's house, in
the midst of his lovely tropical garden; also a
dinner at the Consul General's, besides several
parties on the naval vessels at the station. Cap
tain Book gave us a dinner and dance on his
ship, the Marian. We had breakfast one day on
the flagship Philadelphia with Admiral and Mrs.
Beardsley — the Admiral was in command of the
station. Captain Cotton of the Philadelphia
also gave us a boating party by moonlight, fol
lowed by a little dance aboard ship.
After lunching with the American Minister,
Mr. Sewall, one day, we sat on his lanai at

Surf-Boating

 The Bright Land  17
Waikiki and watched the surf-boating, which
was most exciting, even from a distance, as the
canoes came in at racehorse speed on the crest
of the breakers. That day L. and I put our
bathing suits on, as we did indeed several times,
got into an outrigger canoe with two native
boys to handle it, and started for the reef. They
skilfully paddled the boat out between the
broken waves, waiting for the chance to move
on without meeting a foaming crester, and then
hurrying to catch a smooth place. At last we
got out far enough and turned, watching over
our shoulders for a big fellow to come rolling in.
Then the boys paddled wildly and allowed the
crest, as it broke, to catch and lift the boat and
rush it along on top of the roaring foam, right
up to the beach. On one of our trips our oars
men were a little careless and we were upset.
But instead of swimming in shore we swam out
to sea and pushed the boat until we were well
beyond the breakers, where we could right it
again and get in — which, for those not used to it,
is not a particularly easy thing to accomplish.
The people on the shore became frightened
about us and sent out another boat to pick us
up, for we were quite far out and there were
many sharks around.
By the way, one hears it questioned even to-

18 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
day whether sharks really do eat men, notwith
standing two men were bitten lately while bath
ing as far north as on the New Jersey coast. I
will simply say I have seen a black diving boy at
Aden with only one leg, as the other was bitten
off by a shark, and have myself even worn black
stockings when bathing in tropical seas because
it is said sharks prefer white legs to black.
An old friend of mine, an admiral in the navy,
tells this extraordinary story — that a sailor was
lost overboard from his ship, and that inside a
shark caught the very same day was found the
sailor's head. Here is another story even more
remarkable than that, taken from Musick's book
on Hawaii:
"Why, sharks are the most tractable crea
tures in the world when you know how to handle
them. It takes a great deal of experience and
skill to handle a good-sized shark, one of the
man-eating species, but the Kanaka boys know
exactly how to master them. I used to have a
fish pond over on the other side of Oahu, and at
high tide sometimes as many as half a dozen
full-grown sharks would come in the pond at a
time, and when it was low tide it left them in the
pond, which would be so shallow the sharks
could not turn over. The native boys used to

 The Bright Land  19
go to that pond, jump astride the sharks and
ride them through the water. It was great
amusement to see them riding races around the
pond on the backs of the sharks.
"Now, if you don't believe this story, if you
will charter the ship I will take the whole party
to the very pond in which the sharks are ridden
for horses. If I can't show you the pond, I will
pay the expense of the ship."
A long drive up into the mountains back of the
town one morning, took us to Mt. Tantalus, two
thousand or more feet high, from which there
are splendid views of the plain below and the sea
beyond and mountain ranges on each side. To
day there are many pretty summer villas built
on its slopes. While we were looking down on
the town and harbour far below us, we saw little
puffs of white smoke, and long after could just
hear the booming of the guns of the warships,
American, English, and Japanese, saluting in
honour of the President of this little island re
public, who was visiting one of the vessels.
Then we climbed higher yet, through woods of
koa trees, bordered by thickets of the lantana,
with its many-coloured flowers, up till we could
look down into the dead crater of Punchbowl
and over Diamond Head, and far off across the

20 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
sparkling ocean, while the steeply ravined and
ribbed mountains seemed to fall away suddenly
beneath our feet.
Punchbowl, where in the early days the
natives offered human sacrifices, "is for the
most part as red as clay, though a tinge of green
in its rain-moistened chinks suggests those
bronzes of uncertain antiquity. ' ' On this moun
tain top a myth tells us how a human being
was first made — a man to rule over this island.
The gods molded him from the clay of the
crater, and as they were successful and he came
to life, they made from his shadow a woman to
keep him company. Indeed, many of the
natives still believe in gods and fairies, in shark
men, owls, and ghosts, and they will tell you
stories of the goddess of the crater even to
day. When we last visited this island thirteen
years later with our Secretary of War, Mr.
Dickinson, we saw many changes. We were
taken to the Alexander Young Hotel in the cen
ter of the town, and to the great hotel at Wai
kiki. The old hotel, where we stayed years be
fore, had changed hands and was sadly run
down. How pretty and green everything was,
and how marvelous were the flowers! Many
new and rare species had been planted.

 The Bright Land  21
The changes have been gradual, but to-day
Honolulu is a modern, up-to-date American
town, with business blocks of brick. The
Makapuu Point Light is one of the largest in the
world, and Diamond Head crater has been made
into one of the strongest fortifications of modern
times. Great men-of-war are to be seen off
Honolulu, and Pearl Harbour has been dredged.
The army quarters on this island are quite fine.
There are good golf links, and on the polo field
you see excellent players ; the field is also used
for aviation. The finely equipped Children's
Hospital, the Normal School, and the McKinley
High School were interesting institutions that
had sprung up since our first visit.
To-day, out of a total population in all the
Islands of 209,830, Honolulu has over 50,000.
Many new houses and beautiful gardens are to
be seen. The island now has, of course, cable
and wireless communication with the mainland,
electric cars and lights, telephones, the tele
graph and numberless motors — in fact, every
luxury is to be found. There are a number of
clubs, of which the University is especially pop
ular, and the Pacific, or British, Club is the old
est. The graduates of women's colleges have
formed a club of their own. Schools and char
itable institutions and missionary societies are

22 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
numerous, and the Y. M. C. A. building is very
prominent. The city now has many churches, which are
well attended. The Episcopal cathedral, of
stone brought from England, is especially fine.
The Catholic cathedral and convent have long
been established. It was a Catholic priest who
first brought the algaroba tree from Central
America sixty years ago and planted it in the
city of Honolulu. The descendants of that one
tree have reclaimed great sandy wastes and
clothed them with fodder for cattle.
Our motor trip to Pearl Harbour took us past
Mr. S. M. Damon's charming new place with its
delightful Japanese garden. We motored to
the Pali, a precipice that drops one thousand
feet to the plains which stretch to the sea, where
in the old days we had gone so often. Now, a
stone tablet on its summit bears the following
inscription :
' ' Erected by the Daughters of Hawaii in 1907
to commemorate the battle of Nuuanu, fought in
this valley in 1795, when the invading Kame
hameha I drove the forces of Kalanikupule,
king of Oahu, to the Pali and hurled them over
the precipice, thus establishing the Kame
hameha dynasty."
In these days of aeroplanes, I gather this myth

 The Bright Land  23
of the Bird-man of the Pali from "Legends of
old Honolulu," by Westervelt:
Namaka was a noted man of Kauai, but he left
that island to find some one whom he would like
to call his lord. He excelled in spear-throwing,
boxing, leaping and flying. He went first to
Oahu, and in Nuuanu Valley he met Pakuanui, a
very skilful boxer, and they prepared for a con
test at the Pali. Pakuanui could not handle
Namaka, who was a "whirlwind around a man, ' '
so he became angry and planned to kill him.
Namaka was as "slimy as a fish." "The hill
of the forehead he struck. The hill of the nose
he caught." Like a rainbow bending over the
hau-trees he was, as he circled around Pakuanui.
At a narrow place Pakuanui gave him a kick that
knocked him over the precipice, expecting him
to be dashed to pieces. "But Namaka flew
away from the edge. . . . The people who were
watching said, ... He flew off from the Pali
like an lo bird, leaping into the air . . . spread
ing out his arms like wings ! ' '
This panorama is one of the wonders of the
world ; land and sea, coral reef and mountains,
green meadow and shining sand, spread out be
fore one 's eyes at the Pali. As the road makes
a sharp turn and begins to descend toward the
valley, we encounter the full force of the trade

24 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
winds, for through this pass a gale is always
blowing. To quote from Charles W. Stoddard,
"If you open your mouth too wide, you can't
shut it again without getting under the lee of
something — the wind blows so hard."
From the Pali we went on to Pearl Harbour,
where the United States Government is con
structing a great naval station. This harbour,
the finest in the Islands, is a deep lagoon,
entered from the ocean by a narrow channel
three miles in length. At the inner end it ex
pands and divides into two "lochs," which are
from thirty to sixty feet deep and with a shore
line of some thirty miles. Algaroba forests
cover the shores, and the fertile countryside,
in which are rice, sugar and banana plantations,
promises abundant supplies for the troops sta
tioned here.
Pearl Harbour has really been in our posses
sion ever since the Beciprocity Treaty with Ha
waii was signed in Harrison's administration.1
As it covers ten square miles, the whole navy
of this country could find anchorage there, and
i In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was
signed in Grant's administration, there was no reference to
Pearl Harbour. It was when the treaty was renewed in a
revised form during the administration of President Harrison,
that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United States as a
naval base.

 The Bright Land  25
be in perfect safety. Not only has the bar that
obstructed the entrance to the channel been re
moved, the long, narrow channel straightened,
and a huge drydock constructed in which our
largest ships of war could be repaired, but bar
racks, repair shops, a power house, hospitals,
a powder magazine, and all the other buildings
needed to make a complete station have been
erected at a cost of more than ten millions of
dollars. Before the drydock was finished it
was partially destroyed by an upheaval. The
natives' explanation was that the dock was
built over the home of the Shark-god, and that
he resented this invasion of his domain.
The island of Oahu will soon be a second
Gibraltar, we hope. The channel from the sea
is guarded by Fort Kamehameha. Fort Euger
is at the foot of Diamond Head, Fort DeBussy
near Waikiki Beach; at Moanalua is Fort
Shafter, and at the entrance of Honolulu Har
bour, Fort Armstrong. There are more than
eleven thousand troops stationed there to-day,
consisting of field artillery, cavalry, infantry,
engineers, signal corps, telephone and telegraph
corps, and it is said there will soon be fifteen
thousand or more.1
i General M. M. Macomb was in command from 1911 to
1913, General Frederick Funston during 1914, General W. H.

26 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
A Hawaiian feast, such as they had in the old
days, was given in honour of the Secretary of
War, so we were taken to the house of a mem
ber of the royal family. I was surprised to see
how fine these residences were. This man was
only part native, and really one would not have
suspected from his appearance that he had any
Hawaiian blood at all. His wife was a fat na
tive in a holoku — a mother hubbard — who di
rected the feast, but did not receive.
The bedroom in which we took off our wraps
opened out of the big ball room. There was a
bright-coloured quilt on the bed, and on the walls
were many photographs and cheap prints.
Here were also royal feather plumes in vases
and more polished poi bowls.
The inclosure wiiere we feasted — or had the
luau or "bake" — which led out of the ball room,
was half open with a cover of canvas and banana
leaves. It contained a long table covered with
flowers and fruit, bowls and small dishes.
There were no forks nor spoons, nor anything
but one 's fingers to eat with. At the end of the
meal a wooden dish was passed for us to wash
our fingers. Some of the dishes contained raw
fish with a sauce. A cocoanut shell held rock
Carter followed and General J. P. Wisser is there in com
mand to-day.

Making Poi

 The Bright Land  27
salt, the kind that is given to cattle, and a small
bowl was filled with a mixture of sweet potato
and cocoanut. That was the best dish of all.
The roasted sweet potato was good, too, and
pork, sewed up in ti leaves and roasted with hot
stones, was another delicacy. The drink was
made of fruits and was very sweet. And, of
course, we had poi.
Poi is described as "one-finger" or "two-
finger" poi — thick or thin. Native Hawaiians
like it a few days old, when it is sour. For
tunately, as this was only one day old, I was
able to put one finger-full of the pasty stuff in
my mouth, and, on a dare, I ventured another.
Poi is made from the taro root, which is boiled
till soft, then pounded and mixed with water.
Why I was not ill after this feast I don't know,
as I tried mangoes, grapes, watermelon, and
pineapple, as well as all the other things. Leis
of pink carnations were put about our necks.
Hawaiian music with singing went on during the
meal, and afterward we danced.
The company was certainly cosmopolitan.
One of the people who interested me most was a
Hawaiian princess, really very pretty, dressed
in the height of fashion. Her father was Eng
lish. Another interesting person was the
daughter of a full-blooded Chinaman, her

28 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
mother being half Hawaiian. Her husband was
an American. She told me with great pride
that her boys were both very blond. A wild
Texan army man also roused my interest, from
the point of view of character study ; and I must
not forget an Englishwoman, who said, on de
parture, "Us is going now." We found it all
very diverting and the people so kind and hos
pitable that we enjoyed every minute of our
stay.

CHAPTEE II
MYTHS AND MELES
^ ATIVE Hawaiians — big, generous, happy,
good-looking folk, athletic and fond of
music — are in physical characteristics, in
temperament, in language, traditions and cus
toms, so closely related to the Samoans, the
Maoris of New Zealand, and the other inhabit
ants of Polynesia, that it is clear they belong to
the same race. Although Hawaii is two thou
sand miles from any other land, the people are
so much like the natives of the South Sea Islands
that I do not see how the relationship can be
questioned. Distance, too, means little, for we
hear that only lately a Japanese junk was caught
in a storm and the mast destroyed, yet it was
swept along by the Japan current and in an ex
ceedingly short time was washed up on the shore
near Vancouver, with most of the sailors still
alive. The adventurous boatmen who first
landed on the island of Hawaii, however, must
not only have crossed two thousand miles of
ocean in their canoes but crossed it in the face of
opposing trade winds and ocean currents.
29

30 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
The Polynesians of those early days, like the
ancient Chaldeans, studied the heavenly bodies,
and so, on their long voyages, were able to guide
their course by the stars. Their vessels, which
were double canoes, like those of the modern
Samoans, were from fifty to one hundred feet
long and carried a large company of people, with
provisions, animals, idols, and everything that
was needed for a long voyage or for colonizing a
strange island.
The legends of that earliest time tell of Ha-
waii-loa, who sailed from the west to the Is
lands, which he named for himself. The coming
of Wakea and Papa also belonged to that pe
riod. While they are mentioned as the creators
of the earth, they are said in another version of
the story to have come from Savaii in Samoa.
They brought with them the tabu, which is com
mon to all Polynesia.
Little is to be learned, however, of the history
of Hawaii from the folklore of Pacific Islanders
until about the year 1000 a. d. If we may be
lieve their traditions, this was a time of great
restlessness throughout all Polynesia, when
Hawaii was again visited and held communica
tion with other islands, peopled by the same
race. It is interesting to remember that this
was the century when the Norsemen were strik-

Myths and Meles 31
ing out across the Atlantic, showing that there
were daring navigators on both sides of the
globe. Paao, one of the heroes from Samoa, who set
tled in Hawaii, became high priest. He intro
duced the worship of new gods and increased
the number of tabus. The great temple built by
him was the first in the shape of a quadrangle —
previously they had been three-sided. After
ward, he went back to Samoa and returned with
Pili, wbom he made ruler, and from whom the
Kamehamehas were descended.
From the Hawaiian meles, or songs, we may
picture their life. The men were skilful fisher
men, using hooks of shell, bone, or tortoise shell,
nets of olona-fiber or long spears of hard wood.
The bait used in shark fishing was human flesh.
When it was thrown into the water and the shark
was attracted to it, the fishermen sprang over
board and fought the fish with knives of stone
and sharp shark's teeth. No doubt it was an
extremely exciting sport.
Along the shores of the Islands are the walls
of many fish-ponds, some of which, though very
old, are still in use and bid fair to last for cen
turies longer. Usually they were made by
building a wall of lava rock across the entrance
to a small bay, and the fish were kept in the in-

32 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
closure. The wall was built loosely enough to
allow the water to percolate through it, and
sluice gates were added, which could be opened
and closed. They were at first owned by kings
and chiefs, and were probably built by the forced
labour of the people. Tradition has it that the
wall of Wekolo Pond at Pearl Harbour was
built by natives who formed a line from shore
to mountain and passed lava rock from hand
to hand until it reached the shores over a
mile away, without once touching the ground.
Some of the ponds in the interior of the Islands
have been turned into rice fields and taro
patches, especially on Oahu.
The sports and games of the Hawaiians, of
which there were many, were nearly all asso
ciated with gambling. Indeed, it was the
betting that furnished most of the excitement
connected with them. At the end of a day of
games, many of the people would have staked
and lost everything they owned in the world.
Boxing, surf-riding and hurling the ulu — a
circular stone disk, three or four inches in
diameter — were some of the favourite amuse
ments, as well as tobogganing, which is interest
ing as a tropical adaptation of something that
we consider a Northern sport. The slide was
laid out on a steep hillside, that was made slip-

INTERIOR OF HAWAIIAN" GRASS HOUSE.

Myths and Meles 33
pery with dry pili grass. The sled, of two long,
narrow strips of wood joined together by wicker
work, was on runners from twelve to fourteen
feet long, and was more like our sleds than
modern toboggans. The native held the sled by
the middle with both hands, and ran to get a
start. Then, throwing himself face downward,
he flew down the hill out upon the plain beyond,
sometimes to a distance of half a mile or more.
The old Hawaiians were not bad farmers, in
deed, I think we may call them very good
farmers, when we consider that they had no
metal tools of any description and most of their
agricultural work was done with the o-o, which
was only a stick of hard wood, either pointed at
one end or shaped like a rude spade. With
such primitive implements they terraced their
fields, irrigated the soil, and raised crops of
taro, bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, and sugar
cane. Most of the houses of primitive Hawaiians
were small, but the grass houses of the chiefs
were sometimes seventy feet long. They were
all simply a framework of poles thatched with
leaves or the long grass of the Islands. Inside,
the few rude belongings — mats, calabashes,
gourds, and baskets for fish — were all in strange
contrast to the modern luxury which many of

34 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
their descendants enjoy to-day. The cooking
was done entirely by the men, in underground
ovens. Stones were heated in these; the food,
wrapped in ti leaves, was laid on the stones
and covered with a layer of grass and dirt ; then
water was poured in through a small opening to
steam the food.
The mild climate of Hawaii makes very little
clothing necessary for warmth, and before the
advent of the missionaries the women wore only
a short skirt of tapa that reached just below the
knees, and the men a loin-cloth, the malo.
Tapa, a sort of papery cloth, is made from the
bark of the paper mulberry.
Hawaiians say that in the earliest days their
forefathers had only coverings made of long
leaves or braided strips of grass, until two of
the great gods, Kane and Kanaloa, took pity
upon them and taught them to make kiheis, or
shoulder capes.
Tapa making was an important part of the
work of the women. It was sometimes bril
liantly coloured with vegetable dyes and a pat
tern put on with a bamboo stamp. Unlike the
patterns which our Indians wove into their
baskets and blankets, each one of which had its
meaning, these figures on the tapa had no
special significance, so far as is known. By

Myths and Meles 35
lapping strips of bark over each other and beat
ing them together, the tapa could be made of
any desired size or thickness.
In the old legends, Hina, the mother of the
demi-god Maui, figures as the chief tapa maker.
The clouds are her tapas in the sky, on which
she places stones to hold them down. When
the winds drive the clouds before them, loud
peals of thunder are the noise of the rolling
stones. When Hina folds up her clouds the
gleams of sunlight upon them are seen by men
and called the lightning.
The sound of the tapa beating was often
heard in the Islands. The story is told, that
the women scattered through the different val
leys devised a code of signals in the strokes
and rests of the mallets by which they sent all
sorts of messages to one another — a sort of
primitive telegraphy that must have been a
great comfort and amusement to lonely women.
In the early days, marriage and family asso
ciations fell lightly on their shoulders, and even
to-day they are somewhat lax in their morals.
The seamen who visited the Islands after their
discovery by Captain Cook brought corrup
tion with them, so that the condition of the
natives when the first missionary arrived was
indescribable. A great lack of family affection

36 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
perhaps naturally followed from this light
esteem of marriage. The adoption and even
giving away of children was the commonest
thing, even among the high chiefs and kings,
and exists more or less to-day.
There were three distinctly marked classes
even among the ancient Hawaiians — chiefs,
priests, and common people — proving that
social distinctions do not entirely depend upon
civilization. The chief was believed to be de
scended from the gods and after death was
worshiped as a deity.
The priestly class also included sorcerers and
doctors, all called kahuna, and were much like
the medicine men among the American Indians.
As with most primitive peoples — for after all,
when compared they have very similar tastes
and customs — diseases were supposed to be
caused by evil spirits, and the kahuna was
credited with the power to expel them or even
to install them in a human body. The masses
had implicit belief in this power, and "praying
to death" was often heard of in the old days.1
Ancient Hawaiians wrapped their dead in
tapa with fragrant herbs, such as the flowers of
i Even to a late date this custom has been known in civ
ilized countries. In France a figure of one's enemy was
modeled in wax and was slowly melted before the fire while
being "prayed to death."

ANCIENT TEMPLE INCLOSURE.

Myths and Meles 37
sugar-cane, which had the property of embalm
ing them. They were sometimes buried in
their houses or in grottoes dug in the solid rock,
but more frequently in natural caves, where the
bodies were dried and became like mummies.
Sometimes the remains were thrown into the
boiling lava of a volcano, as a sacrifice to Pele.
It is said no Hawaiians were ever cannibals,
but in the early days man-eaters from the south
visited these Islands and cooked their victims
in the ovens of the natives. Human bones
made into the shape of fish hooks were thought
to bring luck, especially those of high chiefs,
so, as only part of Captain Cook's body was
found and he was considered a god, perhaps
his bones were used in this way.
The heiaus, or temples, developed from
Paao's time into stone platforms inclosed by
walls of stone. Within this inclosure were
sacred houses for the king and the priests, an
altar, the oracle, which was a tall tower of
wicker work, in which the priest stood when
giving the message of his god to the king, and
the inner court — the shrine of the principal idol.
One of the most important heiaus, which still
exists, although in ruins, is the temple of
Wahaula on the island of Hawaii.
There was much that was hard and cruel

38 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
about this religion. The idols were made hide
ous that they might strike terror to the
worshipers. Human sacrifices were offered
at times to the chief gods. The idols of the
natives were much like those of the North
American Indians, but the Kanakas are not like
the Indians in character.
The oppressive tabu was part of the religion,
and the penalty for breaking it was death. The
word means prohibited, and the system was a
set of rules, made by the chiefs and high priests,
which forbade certain things. For instance, it
was tabu for women to eat with men or enter the
men's eating house, or to eat pork, turtles, co-
coanuts, bananas and some kinds of fish. There
were many tabu periods when "no canoe could
be launched, no fire lighted, no tapa beaten or
poi pounded, and no sound could be uttered on
pain of death, when even the dogs had to be muz
zled, and the fowls were shut up in calabashes
for twenty-four hours at a time." Besides the
religious tabus there were civil ones, which
could be imposed at any time at the caprice of
king or chiefs, who would often forbid the peo
ple to have certain things because they wished
to keep them for themselves.
One is apt to think that in those early days
the natives of these heavenly islands must have

Myths and Meles 39
been happy and free-living, without laws and
doing as they wished, with plenty of fruit and
fish to eat ; but it was not so at all, for they were
obliged to crawl in the dust before their king;
they were killed if they even crossed his
shadow. As a pleasant contrast to all these grim
features, the Hawaiians, like the ancient Israel
ites, had cities of refuge, of which there were
two on the island of Hawaii. Here the mur
derer was safe from the avenger, the tabu-
breaker was secure from the penalty of death,
and in time of war, old men and women and
children could dwell in peace within these
walls. The curious belief in a second soul, or double,
and in ghosts, the doctrines of a future state,
and the peculiar funeral rites, all of which
formed part of the native religion, seem
strange to many present-day Christian
Hawaiians. In all Polynesia the four great gods were
Kane, "father of men and founder of the
world,"1 Kanaloa, his brother, Ku, the cruel
one, and Lono, to whom the New Year games
i The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane
is only one of many Hawaiian creation myths, in which
other gods figure as fathers of the human race.

40 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
were sacred. These four were also the chief
deities of Hawaiians.
Besides the great gods there was a host of in
ferior deities, such as the god of the sea, the
god of the fishermen, the shark god, the goddess
of the tapa beaters, Laka, the goddess of song
and dance, who was very popular, and Pele, the
goddess of volcanoes. Still lower in the scale
were the demi-gods and magicians of marvelous
power, like Maui, for whom the island of Maui
is said to be named, who pulled New Zealand
out of the sea with his magic fish hook and stole
the secret of making fire from the wise mud
hens. His greatest achievement was that of
lassoing the sun and forcing him to slacken
his speed. He was a hero throughout Poly
nesia, and his hook is said to have been still
preserved on the island of Tonga in the eight
eenth century.
Like most primitive peoples, the Hawaiians
danced in order that their gods might smile
upon them and bring them luck, or to appease
the dreaded Pele and the other gods of evil.
The much-talked of hula began in this way as a
sacred dance before the altar in a temple in-
closure, while the girls, clad in skirts of grass
and wreaths of flowers, chanted their songs.
There was grace in some of the movements, but

A Hula Dancer
With some concession in costume to
Western conventions

Myths and Meles 41
on the whole the dances are said to have been
' ' indescribably lascivious. ' ' After the mission
aries arrived, the hula was modified, and to-day
it has almost died out.
Many of the old chants were addressed to
Laka, sometimes called the "goddess of the
wildwood growths." These meles had neither
rime nor meter and were more like chants or
recitatives, as the singers used only two or
three deep-throated tones. Curiously enough
the verses suggest the modern vers libre.
The chants include love songs, dirges and
name songs — composed at the birth of a child
to tell the story of his ancestors — besides
prayers to the gods and historical traditions.
As some of these early songs have real vigour
and charm, I give a few examples.
The following is a very old chant of Kane,
Creator of the Universe :
"The rows of stars of Kane,
The stars in the firmament,
The stars that have been fastened up,
Fast, fast, on the surface of the heaven of Kane,
And the wandering stars,
The tabued stars of Kane,
The moving stars of Kane ;
Innumerable are the stars;
The large stars,
The little stars,
The red stars of Kane. 0 infinite space !

42 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
The great Moon of Kane,
The great Sun of Kane
Moving, floating,
Set moving about in the great space of Kane.
The Great Earth of Kane,
The Earth squeezed dry by Kane,
The Earth that Kane set in motion.
Moving are the stars, moving is the Moon,
Moving is the great Earth of Kane." 1
I find the meles to Laka especially pretty,
such as these, taken from Emerson's "Unwrit
ten Literature of Hawaii":
"0 goddess Laka!
0 wildwood bouquet, 0 Laka!
O Laka, queen of the voice !
0 Laka, giver of gifts !
0 Laka, giver of bounty !
0 Laka, giver of all things !"
"This is my wish, my burning desire,
That in the season of slumber,
Thy spirit my soul may inspire,
Altar dweller,
Heaven guest,
Soul awakener,
Bird from covert calling,
"Where forest champions stand,
There roamed I too with Laka."
This one from the same collection is interest
ing in its simplicity and strength :
i A. Fornander, "The Polynesian Race."

Myths and Meles 43
"0 Pele, god Pele!
Burst forth now! burst forth!
Launch a bolt from the sky !
Let thy lightnings fly! ... .
Fires of the goddess burn.
Now for the dance, the dance,
Bring out the dance made public;
Turn about back, turn about face;
Dance toward the sea, dance toward the land,
Toward the pit that is Pele,
Portentous consumer of rocks in Puna !"
The Hawaiian myths, I find, are not nearly so
original or so full of charm as the Japanese and
Chinese stories, and the long names are tire
some. They have, moreover, lost their fresh
ness, their individuality and their primitive
quality in translation and through American
influence. They had been handed down en
tirely by word of mouth until the missionaries
arrived. Many of the myths bear some re
semblance to Old Testament stories as well as
to the traditions told by the head-hunters of the
Philippines. The legends of the volcano seem
more distinctly Hawaiian.
There are many legends of Pele as well as
chants in her honour, which generally represent
her as wreaking her vengeance on mortals who
have been so unfortunate as to offend her. I
quote one that is told to account for the origin
of a stream of unusually black lava, which long,

44 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
long ago flowed down to the coast on Maui:
' ' A withered old woman stopped to ask food
and hospitality at the house of a dweller on this
promontory, noted for his penuriousness. His
kalo (taro) patches flourished, cocoanuts and
bananas shaded his hut, nature was lavish of
her wealth all around him. But the withered
hag was sent away unfed, and as she turned her
back on the man she said, 'I will return to
morrow.' "This was Pele, goddess of the volcano, and
she kept her word, and came back the next day
in earthquakes and thunderings, rent the moun
tain, and blotted out every trace of the man and
his dwelling with a flood of fire. "
Another story goes that in the form of a
maiden the goddess appeared to a young chief
at the head of a toboggan slide and asked for
a ride on his sled. He refused her, and started
down without her. Soon, hearing a roar as of
thunder and looking back, he saw a lava torrent
chasing him and bearing on its highest wave the
maiden, whom he then knew to be the goddess
Pele. Down the hill and across the plain his
toboggan shot, followed by the flaming river
of molten rock. The chief, however, reached
the ocean at last and found safety in the wa
ters.

Myths and Meles 45
This condensed story of the Shark King is
also a typical Hawaiian tale :
The King Shark, while sporting in the water,
watched a beautiful maiden diving into a pool,
and fell in love with her. As king sharks can
evidently take whatever form they please, he
turned himself into a handsome man and waited
for her on the rocks. Here the maiden came
one day to seek shellfish, which she was fond of
eating. While she was gathering them a huge
wave swept her off her feet, and the handsome
shark man saved her life. As a matter of
course, she straightway fell in love with him.
So it happened that one day they were married ;
but it was only when her child was born that the
shark man confided to her who he really was,
and that he must now disappear. As he left,
he cautioned her never to give their child any
meat, or misfortune would follow.
The child was a fine boy, and was quite like
other children except that he bore on his back
the mark of the great mouth of the shark. As
he grew older he ate with the men instead of
the women, as was the custom, and his grand
father, not heeding the warning but wishing to
make his grandson strong, so that some day he
might become a chief, gave him the forbidden
meat. When in company, the boy wore a cape

46 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
to cover the scar on his back, and he always
went swimming alone, but when in the water
he remembered his father, and it was then that
he would turn into a shark himself. The more
meat the boy ate the more he wanted, and in
time it was noticed that children began to dis
appear. They would go in bathing and never
return. The people became suspicious, and one
day they tore the boy's mantle off him and saw
the shark's mouth upon his back. There was
great consternation, and at last he was ordered
to be burned alive. He had been bound with
ropes and was waiting for the end, but while the
fire was kindling he called on his father, King
Shark, for help, and so it was that he was able
to burst the ropes and rush into the water,
where he turned into a shark and escaped.
The mother then confessed that she had mar
ried the Shark King. The chiefs and the high
priests held a council and decided that it would
be better to offer sacrifices to appease him
rather than to kill the mother. This they did,
and for that reason King Shark promised that
his son should leave the shores of the island of
Hawaii forever. It was true, he did leave this
island, but he visited other islands and con
tinued his bad habits, until one day he was
really caught just as he was turning from a man

Myths and Meles 47
into a shark on the beach in shallow water. He
was bound and hauled up a canyon, where they
built a fire from the bamboo of the sacred grove.
But the shark was so large that they had to chop
down one tree after another for his funeral
pyre, until the sacred grove had almost disap
peared. This so angered the god of the forest
that he changed the variety of bamboo in this
region; it is no longer sharp-edged like other
bamboo on the Islands.

CHAPTEB in
THE FIVE KAMEHAMEHAS
HAWAIIAN myths and traditions are con
fused and unreliable, and we know little
real history of the "Bright Land," the
"Land of Bainbows," before the coming of
Captain Cook, in 1778. We do know, however,
that, in those early days, the different tribes
continually carried on a savage warfare among
themselves. Not until the latter part of the
eighteenth century did there arise a native
chieftain powerful enough to subdue all the
islands under his sway and bring peace among
the warring tribes. This chief was Kame
hameha I, or Kamehameha the Great, often
called the Napoleon of the Pacific. The authen
tic history of Hawaii really begins with his
reign. His portrait in the Executive Building
in Honolulu shows him as a stern warrior.
The Japanese, as well as the Spaniards, had
long known of the existence of islands in that
part of the Pacific Ocean. Tradition tells of
some shipwrecked Spanish sailors and some
48

 The Five Kamehamehas  49
Japanese who settled there at a very early date.
These Islands were, however, brought to the
notice of the civilized world for the first time by
Captain Cook.
The Englishmen were received by the simple
natives with awe and wonder, Captain Cook
himself was declared by the priests to be an
incarnation of Lono, god of the forest and hus
band of the goddess Laka, and abundant pro
visions were brought to the ship as an offer
ing to this deity. Had the natives been even
decently treated, there would have been no
tragic sequel to the story, but Cook's crew were
allowed complete and unrestrained license on
shore. As it was, there was no serious trouble
during their first visit, but when they returned
in a few months and again exacted contribu
tions the supplies were given grudgingly. The
English vessel sailed away, but was unfortu
nately obliged to put back for repairs, and it
was then that the fight occurred between the
foreigners and the natives in which Captain
Cook met his death. It was this famous voy
ager who gave the name of Sandwich Islands
to the group, in honour of his patron, Lord
Sandwich. They were known by that name for
many years, but it was never the official desig
nation, and is now seldom used.

50 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
The discovery of the Islands by Englishmen
and Americans was fraught with evil conse
quences to the natives, as they brought with
them new diseases, and they also introduced in
toxicating liquors, and it soon became the cus
tom for whaling vessels in the Pacific to call
there and make them the scene of debauchery
and licentiousness. It has been said that at
that time sea captains recognized no laws, either
of God or man, west of Cape Horn. We must
not fail to note, however, that even in those
early days there were a few white men who
really sought the good of the Hawaiians.
Isaac Davis and John Young were two of
these men. When the crew of an American
vessel was massacred these two were spared,
and they continued to live in the Islands until
their death. They were a bright contrast to
most seamen who visited Hawaii at that period.
They accepted the responsibility imposed by
their training in civilization, exerting a great in
fluence for good, and were even advisers and
teachers of King Kamehameha I.
Captain George Vancouver, who visited the
Islands three times in the last decade of the
eighteenth century under commission from the
British Government, was another white man
whose work there was wholly good. He landed

The Five Kamehamehas 51
the first sheep and cattle ever seen there, and
induced the king to proclaim them tabu for ten
years so that they might have time to increase,
after which women were to be allowed to eat
them as well as men. He introduced some val
uable plants, such as the grapevine, the orange
and the almond, and brought the people seeds
of garden vegetables. He refused them fire
arms. Under his direction the first sailing ves
sel was built there and called the Britannia.
Vancouver so won over the natives by his kind
treatment that the chiefs ceded the Islands to
Great Britain and raised the British flag in
February, 1794. He left them with a promise
to come again and bring them teachers of
Christianity and the industries of civilization.
His death, however, prevented his return, and
Great Britain never took formal possession.
Kamehameha I, who, at the time of Cook's
arrival, was only a chief on the island of Ha
waii, joined in the tribal wars, conquered the
other chiefs of that island, and became king.
While this conquest was in progress, an erup
tion of Kilauea destroyed a large part of the
opposing army and convinced Kamehameha
that Pele was on his side.
The subjugation of Maui and Oahu followed.
At the great battle fought in the Nuuanu Val-

52 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
ley, the king of Oahu was defeated and driven
with his army over the Pali. Kamehameha was
twice prevented from invading Kauai, but some
years later it was ceded to him by its ruler.
After the conquest of Oahu was completed,
in 1795, it was Kamehameha 's work to build up
a strong central government. According to the
feudal system that had existed in the Islands up
to that time, all the land was considered to be
long to the king, who divided it among the great
chiefs, these in turn apportioning their shares
among the lesser chiefs, of whom the people held
their small plots of ground. All paid tribute
to those above them in rank. Kamehameha I,
in order to increase his own power and destroy
that of the chiefs, distributed their lands to
them in widely separated portions rather than
in large, continuous tracts, as had been the cus
tom previously.
Kamehameha was elected by the chiefs as
king of all the Hawaiian Islands, and founded
the dynasty called by his name, under which his
people had peace for nearly eighty years. He
adroitly used the tabu to strengthen his power,
and availing himself of the wise advice of the
few benevolent foreigners whom he knew, he
sought in every way to further the best inter-

The Five Kamehamehas 53
ests of his people. He has been called "one
of the notable men of the earth. ' '
The bronze statue of Kamehameha I stands
in front of the Judiciary Building in Honolulu.
The anniversary of the birthday of the great
ruler occurs in June, and is celebrated by the
natives far and near. His statue is dressed in
his royal cape of bird feathers and decorated
with leis of flowers by the sons and daughters
of Hawaii.
The strength of character of Kamehameha I
is shown in many ways, but especially in the
stand he took in regard to liquor, which was
having a disastrous effect on his people. When
he became convinced that alcoholic drinks were
injurious, he decided never to taste them again.
Before the close of his life, he made a noble
effort to prevent the use of liquor by his people.
All the chiefs on the island of Hawaii were sum
moned to meet in an immense grass house, which
he had ordered built at Kailua, the ancient cap
ital, solely for this council. When they were
all assembled the King entered in his magnifi
cent cape of mamo bird feathers, and draw
ing himself up to his full height, uttered this
command :
"Beturn to your homes, and destroy every

54 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
distillery on the island ! Make no more intoxi
cating liquors!"
At the death of Kamehameha I, in 1819, his
son Liholiho succeeded him as Kamehameha II.
Unfortunately, he did not carry out his father's
wishes. He was like his father in nothing but
name, being weak and dissipated, and easily in
fluenced by the unscrupulous foreigners who
surrounded him. Many changes took place in
his reign, but so strong had the government been
made by his father that it survived them all.
Fortunately, too, an able woman, one of the
wives of the first Kamehameha, was associated
with the King as Queen Begent.
Before the end of the year 1819 the Hawaiians
had burned their idols and abolished tabu. It
was the influence of Europeans that had led to
these radical changes. Early in the nineteenth
century the trade in sandalwood sprang up, in
return for which many manufactured articles
were imported, especially rum, firearms and
cheap ornaments. This trade brought in
creased numbers of foreigners to the Islands,
and their sneers undermined the faith of the
people in their old gods without offering them
any other religion as a substitute.
In this connection, we are told that twice Ka
mehameha I made an effort to learn something

The Five Kamehamehas 55
about Christianity. When he heard that the
people of Tahiti had embraced the new faith,
he inquired of a foreigner about it, but the man
could tell him nothing. Again, just before his
death, he asked an American trader to tell him
about the white man's God, but, as a native
afterward reported to the missionaries, "He
no tell him." This greatest of the Hawaiians
prepared the way, but he himself died without
hearing of Christ.
The Hawaiians had now swept their house
clean, and they were ready for an entirely new
set of furnishings. In a land far away beyond
the Pacific these were preparing for them, and
the short reign of this second Kamehameha was
made memorable not only by the changes al
ready mentioned but also by the coming of the
missionaries, in 1820.
Obookiah, whose real name was Opukahaia,
was a young Hawaiian who shipped as seaman
on a whaler about 1817, and was taken to New
Haven, where he found people who befriended
him and undertook to give him an education.
They sent him to the Foreign Mission School
which had been established at Cornwall, Con
necticut, for young men from heathen lands.
Among his mates were four others from his na
tive islands. It had been his purpose to carry

56 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
the Christian religion to his home, but he was
taken seriously ill at the school and on his death
bed he pleaded with his new friends not to for
get his country. His appeal led the first mis
sionaries to embark for those far-away shores.
Three young Hawaiians from the school went
with them as assistants.
When the Christian teachers arrived, it is
said that the captain of the ship sent an offi
cer ashore with the Hawaiian boys. After
awhile they returned, shouting out their won
derful news:
"Liholiho is king. The tabus are abolished.
The idols are burnt. There has been war.
Now there is peace. ' '
The missionaries received a cordial welcome
from some of the natives of high station. The
former high priest met them with the words,
"I knew that the wooden images of gods
carved by our own hands could not supply our
wants, but I worshiped them because it was a
custom of our fathers. . . . My thought has al
ways been, there is only one great God, dwelling
in the heavens."
The chief Kalaimoku, neatly dressed in for
eign clothes, boarded the ship, accompanied by
the two queen dowagers, and welcomed each of
the newcomers in turn with a warm hand clasp.

The Five Kamehamehas 57
One of the queens asked the American women
to make her a white dress while they were sail
ing along the coast, to wear on meeting the
King. When she went ashore in her new white
mother hubbard, a shout greeted her from
hundreds of throats ! Because the gown was so
loose that she could both run and stand in it,
the natives called it a holoku, meaning "run-
stand." It became the national dress. The
queens afterward sent the missionaries sugar
cane, bananas, cocoanuts and other foods, as a
token of their pleasure.
The Americans were received kindly by the
King after explaining their mission and were
allowed to remain in the Islands. They had
many trials and privations, but they were strong
in their faith, and within twenty years they had
the joy of baptizing thousands of converts.
Kamehameha II, fearing the Bussians — one
trader had actually gone so far as to hoist the
Bussian flag over some forts that he had built
— visited the United States with his queen and
then went on to England to ask for protection,
which was promised them by George TV They
both died there, in 1824, and their remains were
sent home in a British man-of-war, commanded
by Lord Byron, cousin of the poet.
When Kamehameha III was made ruler, all

58 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
the unprincipled white men in Oahu immedi
ately set to work to lead him into every form
of dissipation, but they were not to succeed with
him as they had with his predecessor. There
were men of ability in that band of mission
aries, and they had great influence with him.
These faithful advisers had a large share in
framing the liberal constitution which he
granted. It is of special interest to note that, the year
before the constitution was adopted, a Bill of
Bights was promulgated, which set forth the
fundamental principles of government and is
often called the Hawaiian Magna Charta. An
eminent writer has given us the provisions of
this document.
It asserts the right of every man to "life,
limb, liberty, freedom from oppression, the
earnings of his hand, and the productions of his
mind, not however, to those who act in viola
tion of the laws. It gave natives for the first
time the right to hold land in fee simple ; before
that the King had owned all the land, and no
one could buy it. In this document it is also
declared that 'protection is hereby secured to
the persons of all the people, together with their
lands, their building lots and all their property
while they conform to the laws of the kingdom,'

The Five Kamehamehas 59
and that laws must be enacted for the protec
tion of subjects as well as rulers."
A commission was also formed to determine
the ownership of the land. By this commission
one-third of all the land was confirmed to the
King, one-third to the chiefs, and one-third to
the common people. As far as possible the peo
ple's share was so divided that each person re
ceived the piece of ground that he was living
on. The King and many of the chiefs turned
over one-half of their share to the Government,
which soon held nearly one-third of all the
landed property in the kingdom.
The first constitution was framed in 1840.
About ten years later an improved one was
adopted. The legislature was to meet in two
houses. The nobles were to be chosen by the
King for life, and were not to be more than
thirty in number. There were to be not less
than twenty-four representatives, who were to
be elected by the people. The Supreme Court
was to be composed of three members — a chief
justice and two associate justices. Four circuit
courts were to be established, and besides the
judges for these, each district was to have a
judge who should settle petty cases.
It was in 1825, early in the reign of Kame
hameha III, that Kapiolani, daughter of the

60 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
high chief Keawe-mauhili, of Hilo, defied the
power of Pele. Having become a Christian, she
determined to give her people an object lesson
on the powerlessness of their gods. With a
retinue of eighty persons she journeyed, most
of the way on foot, one hundred miles to the
crater of Kilauea. When near the crater, she
was met by the priestess of Pele, who threatened
her with death if she broke the tabus. But
Kapiolani ate the sacred ohelo berries without
first offering some to the goddess, and un
daunted, made her way with her followers down
five hundred feet to the ' ' Black Ledge. ' ' There,
on the very margin of the fiery lake of Hale-
maumau, she addressed her followers in these
ringing words :
"Jehovah is my God. He kindled these fires.
... I fear not Pele. If I perish by the anger
of Pele, then you may fear the power of Pele ;
but if I trust in Jehovah, and he should save me
from the wrath of Pele, then you must fear and
serve the Lord Jehovah. All the gods of Ha
waii are vain!" Then they sang a hymn of
praise to Jehovah, and wended their way back
to the crater's rim in safety.
It was during the reign of Kamehameha III
that the United States, France and Great
Britain recognized the independence of the Ha-

The Five Kamehamehas 61
waiian Islands. Before this news reached the
Pacific, however, Lord George Paulet, a British
naval officer, took possession and hoisted the
British flag, because the King refused to yield
to his demands. Five months later, Admiral
Thomas, in command of Great Britain's fleet in
the East, appeared at Honolulu and restored
the country to the natives. In recognition, an
attractive public park was named for him. At
the thanksgiving service held on that day, the
King uttered the words which were afterward
adopted as the motto of the nation, the transla
tion of which is: "In righteousness is the life
of the land."
The independence of Hawaii was only once
again threatened by a foreign power, when a
French admiral took possession of the fort and
the government buildings at Honolulu for a
few days. Indeed, that independence was not
only recognized but guaranteed by France, Eng
land and the United States.
Many of the missionaries settled in Hawaii,
and their descendants have become rich and
prominent citizens. Hawaii owes much to
them. So far as lay in their power, they taught
the people trades and introduced New England
ideals of government and education. Two years
after they arrived a spelling book was printed,

62 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and a few years later the printing office sent
out a newspaper in the native language. The
first boarding school for boys was started by
Lorrin Andrews in 1831, on Maui, and it was not
long after that one was established for girls.
The Hilo boarding school, which came later, was
the one that General Armstrong took many sug
gestions from for his work for the coloured peo
ple, at Hampton Institute in Virginia. Indeed,
so eager were the Hawaiians to learn of their
new teachers that whole villages came to the
mission stations, gray-haired men and women
becoming pupils, and the chiefs leading the way.
As early as 1835, Hoapili, governor of Maui,
made the rule that all children over four years
of age should attend school, and no man or
woman who was unable to read and write should
hold office or receive a license to marry. Soon
after that laws were passed making attendance
at school compulsory. Any man who had a
child under eight years of age, and did not send
him to school, was to suffer various penalties,
among them to forfeit the right to cut the kinds
of timber that the king set apart for the use of
the people. To make this provision emphatic,
the following sentence was added: "All those
kinds of timber are tabu to those parents who
send not thsir children to school. ' '

The Five Kamehamehas 63
An anecdote of this transition period is found
in a book written by one who styled himself
simply Haole (a foreigner). In the valley of
Halawa, on the island of Molokai, he was enter
tained at the house of the district judge, a full-
blooded Hawaiian. Among the furnishings of
the house were a table, a bedstead, some chairs,
even a rocking chair. He gives an amusing
description of his evening meal in this house.
"First of all, the table was covered with a
sheet just taken off the bed. The table service
consisted of a knife, fork and spoon, procured
from the foot of a long woolen stocking, a sin
gle plate, a tumbler, and a calabash of pure
water from a neighbouring spring. The eat
ables were composed of fresh fish, baked in
wrappers of the ti leaf, a couple of boiled fowls,
a huge dish of sweet potatoes, and another of
boiled tara (taro?). . . . The last thing served
upon the table was something which the family
had learned to designate by the name of 'tea' in
English. This was emptied into large bowls,
and was intended for the family group, myself
included. . . .
"The cook was a strapping Kanaka, rather
more than six feet in height, and would have
weighed nearly three hundred pounds. While
I was the only occupant of the table, the fam-

64 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
ily had formed a circle on their mats, where
they were discussing their supper with the ut
most eagerness. He devoted his entire atten
tion to me. He was a good specimen of a well
poi-fed native. I could see his frame to ad
vantage, for his sole dress consisted of a short
woolen shirt and the malo ; and his head of hair
resembled that of the pictured Medusa. When
I first sat down to the table, he took up my
plate, and with a mouthful of breath, which
was really a small breeze, he blew the dust
from it.
' ' This act occasioned me no small merriment.
But when, in supplying me with 'tea,' he took
up a bowl and wiped it out with the corner of
his flannel shirt, I could refrain no longer. I
laughed until my sides fairly ached and the
tears streamed down my face. . . . For a mo
ment the family were taken by surprise, and so
was this presiding deity of culinary operations.
But on a second outburst from myself, they felt
reassured, and joined with me in my laughter.
The cook, however, seemed to feel that I had
laughed at some one of his blunders; so he
dipped the bowl in a calabash of water, washed
it out with his greasy fingers, and again wiped
it out with that same shirt lap. This was done
three times, in answer to the laughter it was

QUEEN EMMA.

The Five Kamehamehas 65
impossible for me to restrain. And when he
had filled the bowl with tea, and saw that it re
mained untasted, he put a large quantity of
sugar into the huge tea-kettle, shook it up,
placed it at my right elbow, and told me to
drink that!
"The evening was closed with solemn devo
tions. The best bed in the house was placed at
my disposal ; and upon it was replaced the sheet
on which I had just before supped, and on which
I slept during that night. The bed was care
fully stuffed with a soft downy substance, re
sembling raw silk, but called by the natives
pulu, and culled from the tree-fern. The pil
lows were stuffed with the same material."
Kamehameha III was succeeded by his
nephew and adopted son Kamehameha IV. Al
though he had a violent temper, he had many
good qualities. His wife was Queen Emma,
granddaughter of John Young, who was very
English in her tastes. It was in her honour that
the King founded the Queen's Hospital, and it
was probably due to her influence that he
started the Anglican mission and made an ex
cellent translation of the English prayer book
into the Hawaiian language. The harbour of
Honolulu was enlarged by him and other im-

66 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
provements were made, and the cultivation of
rice was introduced. After his death, which
occurred in San Francisco, Queen Emma made
an attempt to obtain the crown, but was unsuc
cessful. It was about this time, thirty years before
my first visit to Hawaii, that my father, Lieu
tenant Perkins of the U. S. S. Lackawanna, was
ordered to the Pacific, and for two years was
stationed at Honolulu. He spent much of his
spare time in traveling over the Islands, even
to their remotest corners. He enjoyed visiting
the ranches and joining in the exciting though
perilous occupation of driving wild cattle down
from the mountains, where one's safety de
pended almost wholly on skilful horsemanship.
He ascended to the great crater of Kilauea,
went to every interesting locality, studied the
natives, attended their feasts and learned their
customs. These things were described in his
letters, and such a newspaper bit as the follow
ing gives a glimpse of the duties of a naval
officer. "The whaling bark, Daniel Wood, of New
Bedford, was wrecked on the French Frigates
Shoal, April 14th. Captain Bichard and a
portion of the crew arrived at Honolulu after
a passage of 450 miles in an open boat. The

The Five Kamehamehas 67
U. S. S. Lackawanna immediately sailed for the
scene of the wreck to rescue the remainder of
the crew."
Another clipping records this amusing inci
dent: "The Commander of the British war
vessel Chanticleer, at Honolulu, set his band
playing 'Dixie,' alongside the United States
steamer Lackawanna. The latter retorted with
'Wearing of the Green.' "
While the Lackawanna was at Honolulu, an
event occurred which was referred to in the dis
cussions of Congress with regard to Hawaiian
matters in the session of 1892-1893, as illus
trating the policy of our Government. The of
ficial record of the Government affords a very
complete story of how the United States became
the possessor of what is now called Midway Is
land. It was first known as Brooks Island, but
was renamed by our navy department, prin
cipally on the unofficial suggestion of the Pacific
Mail Steamship Company, in recognition of its
geographical position on the route from Hawaii
to Japan.
The attention of Mr. Welles, then Secretary
of the Navy, was called to this island as possi
bly destined to prove of early importance as
a coaling station for United States vessels
cruising in these waters. Secretary Welles is-

68 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
sued an order to Bear Admiral Thatcher, com
manding the Lackawanna or some other suit
able vessel to search for the island and having
found it, to take possession in the name of the
United States.
My father's letters give an account of this
trip. August 4th, 1867. he wrote :
"Just now we are sailing along quietly, al
though we have been greatly startled and had
a few moments of terrible anxiety. One of the
men, while furling the top-gallant sail, lost his
hold and fell overboard. Of course, falling
from such a height, we all thought he was killed.
The life buoys were cut away, and the ship
hove to, and the boat sent for him, which picked
him up and found him but little hurt after all.
It was such a narrow escape, we were all greatly
relieved when we got him aboard all right. Ex
cept this, we are sailing along day after day in
perfect monotony, and for two months or more
we shall not see a strange face or hear a word
of news from home. But the weather is de
lightful, and my health is good." "August 24th.
"Breakers have been reported from the
masthead, and I hope it is the island we are
looking for."

The Five Kamehamehas 69
"August 27th.
"Yes, it proved to be the land we were seek
ing, and now we are lying at anchor off
Brooks Island, called after the captain who
discovered it a few years ago; and probably
never before or since has there been any one
there. It is low and sandy, about six miles long,
and its inhabitants are only sea gulls and other
sea birds, seals and turtles. Never having seen
human beings before, they are not in the least
afraid of us, and we can catch as many of them
as we wish. I have been fishing and caught
a boatload of fish and eleven turtles, each one
of the latter weighing two hundred pounds and
over. We are going to remain here and survey
the island, but to-day it has come on to rain, and
we are all cooped up on board the ship."
"August 28th.
"Pleasant weather has come again, and I have
been out hunting and fishing. Shot seventeen
curlew, hauled the seine, caught a boatload of
fish and three large turtles; hunted for shells,
but could not find any.
"We are going to have quite a ceremony and
take possession of the islands for the United
States." Captain William Beynolds, the officer in com-

70 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
mand of the Lackawanna, was very proud of
having been concerned in taking possession of
the first island beyond our own shores ever
added to the dominion of the United States. In
his report he well describes the somewhat dra
matic and spectacular performance.
"I have the honour to report that on Wednes
day, the 28th of August, 1867, in compliance
with the orders of the Hon. Secretary of the
Navy of May 28th, I took formal possession of
Brooks Island and reefs for the United States.
Having previously erected a suitable flagstaff I
landed on that day, accompanied by all the
officers who could be spared from the ship, with
six boats armed and equipped, and under a
salute of twenty-one guns, and with three cheers,
hoisted the national ensign, and called on all
hands to witness the act of taking possession
in the name of the United States.
"The ceremony of taking possession over, the
howitzers and small-arm men and marines were
exercised at target-firing. Having hauled the
seine and procured an abundant supply of fish,
the men cooked their dinner on shore, and the
rest of the day was spent pleasantly, picnic
fashion upon the island. ... I sincerely hope
that this will by no means be the last of our
insular annexations. I venture to name the

The Five Kamehamehas 71
only harbour at this island after the present
Hon. Secretary of the Navy, and to call its
roadstead after the present Hon. Secretary of
State (Seward)."
"In 1869," writes C. S. Alden, in his life of
Commodore Perkins, "Congress appropriated
$50,000 for deepening the entrance of the har
bour; the work was begun, but the amount
proved insufficient for completing the plan.
One hundred miles to the west, Lieutenant-Com
mander Sicard, of the U. S. S. Saginaw, who had
the duties of inspecting and assisting in this
work, had the misfortune to wreck his ship on a
reef. The hazardous voyage of Lieutenant Tal
bot with three men in a small boat sailing over
1500 miles to Kauai, Hawaiian Islands, to gain
succour, and the drowning of all but one of the
men just as they reached their destination and
were pushing through the surf to make a land
ing, is one of the thrilling tales of the sea.
Nothing further seems to have been done by our
Government until three or four decades later,
when it sought to insure safety to navigation
by establishing there a lighthouse and buoys.
After the visits of the Lackawanna and the Sag
inaw, the islands were deserted until the Pacific
Commercial Cable Company placed there a sta
tion in the San Francisco-Manila line, main-

72 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
taining about forty men. This is the interme
diate station between Honolulu and Guam." 1
Kamehameha V was the older brother of the
last King, and a man of autocratic temper, who
promulgated a new constitution that increased
the powers of the king and decreased those of
the people. He was called Prince Lot before
he came to the throne. During his reign the
leper colony on Molokai was started, in an ef
fort to stop the spread of leprosy. As every
one knows, it was here that Father Damien, the
Catholic priest, devoted his life to caring for
the sufferers and finally succumbed to the dis
ease. The King died in 1872, the last of his
line. Just before his death, he turned to Mrs.
Bishop and asked her to become queen. She
refused, thinking she could serve her people bet
ter in some otber way, and the King passed
away without naming his successor.
It was suggested that either the sister of
Kamehameha V or one of the high chiefs should
i Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson
stopped there on his way to the Philippines with the first
United States troops. The Spanish governor had not even
heard that war was declared, and when the ships fired, he
thought it was a salute in his honour. He surrendered the
fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in
the Treaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany. Guam
has an excellent harhour. It is under the control of the
United States Navy at present. Marines are stationed there.

Hma<p

The Five Kamehamehas 73
be placed on the throne, but Prince Lunalilo, the
nearest male relative, was elected in 1874 by the
people. He was thus the first Hawaiian mon
arch to be chosen by popular vote. His reign,
however, lasted little more than a year.
David Kalakaua, a high chief, was the choice
of the people to succeed Lunalilo. The Eeci-
procity Treaty with the United States was
the great commercial event of this reign. By
this sugar and some other products were ad
mitted into America free of duty.
This last of all the kings sought continually
to regain the authority lost by the crown when
the first constitution was granted, and his gov
ernment kept growing more arbitrary and cor
rupt. Finally, so much feeling was roused that
the foreign element compelled Kalakaua to pro
claim a new constitution, by which he lost the
power he had previously possessed and white
men gained more control of the government.
Two years later, the "Wilcox rebellion," headed
by Bobert W. Wilcox, a half-breed, was the un
successful attempt of the natives to assert them
selves against the whites. It was, however,
promptly put down.
Kalakaua was kind-hearted, popular, and pos
sessed a dignity and ease of manner that made
him at home in any society, although he was dis-

74 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
sipated and corrupt and could be "hail fellow
well met" with carousers. Captain Lucien
Young says of him in his book, "Beal Ha
waii": "Kalakaua was only a high chief, in no way
related to the extinct royal family, and was
reputed to be the illegitimate son of a negro
cobbler, who had emigrated to the Islands from
Boston." On the other hand, the sister of Kalakaua,
Liliuokalani, who followed him, gives the fol
lowing account of their pedigree:
"My father's name was Kapaakea; my
mother was Keohokalole ; the latter was one of
the fifteen counselors of the King, Kame
hameha 111. My great-grandfather Keawe-a-
Heulu, the founder of the dynasty of the Kame
hamehas, and Keona, father of Kamehameha I,
were own cousins, and my great-grandaunt was
the celebrated Queen Kapiolani, one of the first
converts to Christianity."
King Kalakaua was the author of the Ha
waiian national hymn, which was set to music by
Captain Berger, leader of the Boyal Hawaiian
Band. It certainly testifies to a firm belief in
the "divine right of kings."
"Hawaii's very own,
Look to your sovran Lord,

The Five Kamehamehas 75
Your chief that's heaven-born,
Who is your King;
"Men of Hawaii's land,
Look to your native chiefs,
Your sole, surviving lords,
The nation's pride.
"Men of Hawaiian stock,
My nation ever dear,
With loins begirt for work,
Strive with your might.
Refrain :
"Protector, heaven-sent,
Kamehameha great,
To vanquish every foe,
With conquering spear."
Kalakaua died in San Francisco and his body
was taken home in a United States man-of-war.
His funeral was one of barbaric splendour with
kahili bearers, superb feather cloaks, and as
was the custom, with bearers who had shaved
half their faces and heads.
Under the kings the Hawaiians had a coat
of arms. It had on the first and fourth quar
ters of the shields eight red, white and blue
stripes, which represented the eight inhabited
islands. On the yellow background of the sec
ond and third quarters were the tabu sticks —
white balls with black staffs. These were a sign
of protection, as well as of tabu. In the cento*

76 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
of the shield is a triangular flag, the puela, lying
across two spears. This also was a sign of
tabu and protection. The background repre
sents a royal mantle. At the sides are the sup
porters in feather cloaks and helmets, the one
on the right carrying a spear, the one on the left
a kahili, or staff used only on state occasions.
Above the shield is the crown, ornamented with
twelve taro leaves. Below is the national motto.
Notwithstanding she had married an Ameri
can, John C. Dominis of Massachusetts, Liliuo
kalani was even more determined than her
brother had been to restore the ancient privi
leges of the monarch. She revived the old Ha
waiian customs, and decided to proclaim a new
constitution giving to herself increased power.
The English Minister and his followers were on
the Queen's side, but those who composed the
American mission element were distinctly the
best citizens, and this element conquered.
A Citizen's Committee of Safety was formed,
then a Provisional Government was established,
and a delegation sent to Washington to request
annexation to the United States. A treaty of
annexation was drawn up, but it was not acted
upon by the Senate before President Harrison's
term of office ended and President Cleveland's
began. In the meantime, Mr. Stevens, our Min-

The Five Kamehamehas 77
ister to Hawaii, had, at the request of the Pro
visional Government, put the Islands under the
protection of the Government of the United
States. Emissaries of the Queen told their
story to President Cleveland, who sent a spe
cial Commissioner to the Islands to report on
conditions there. After receiving his report,
which was far from impartial, the President sent
an urgent request — really a demand — to the
Provisional Government to restore the Queen to
power. It was impossible for free-born Ameri
cans to accede to such a demand, and they re
plied through Hon. S. B. Dole that the Govern
ment "respectfully and unhesitatingly declines
to entertain the proposition of the President of
the United States that it should surrender its
authority to the ex-Queen." Then, in 1894, de
spairing of immediate annexation, they formed
a republic with Mr. Dole as president.
It was proposed by some of the people that
Princess Kaiulani, Mr. Cleghorn's daughter and
the Queen's niece, should be proclaimed queen,
and a Begency with Mr. Dole at its head estab
lished until the Princess came of age. But the
American element did not feel that an honest
government would be insured by this means.
Kaiulani, who was being educated in England,
came here and issued an appeal to Americans,

78 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
but was unable to awaken sympathy. She died
soon after.
The new Bepublic of Hawaii thus began its
history under the leadership of the man of whom
it is said that he "throughout his life had been
identified with all that was least partizan and
most upright in the Islands." It is interesting
to note that a vast amount of political wire-pull
ing was guarded against in the constitution then
adopted by the provision that the President at
the closb of his term of six years should be "in
eligible to reelection for the next succeeding
term. ' '
The last native uprising, said to have been
instigated by the ex-Queen, occurred in 1895, but
was quickly put down. Among the few who lost
their lives at this time was Charles L. Carter,
brother of Governor Carter. Liliuokalani was
tried for treason, with nearly two hundred of
her followers, but having formally renounced all
claim to the Hawaiian monarchy and taken the
oath of allegiance to the republic, she was par
doned. None of the rebels were executed, their
sentence being commuted in various ways.
At this time, trouble arose over the large im
migration from Japan; the Japanese contract
labourers showed a bad spirit ; a Japanese man-
of-war appeared and also a British war ves-

The Five Kamehamehas 79
sel ; and it was seen that only annexation to the
United States could prevent the Islands from
falling into the hands of some foreign power.
They were formally annexed to the American
republic in 1898. The Territory of Hawaii —
this is now the official title of the Islands — has
the same form of government as the other ter
ritories of the United States.1
As was indeed fitting, the first governor of
Hawaii was Hon. S. B. Dole. The governor
and the secretary of the territory are appointed
by the President. Of the fifty senators and
thirty members of the House of Bepresenta-
tives about one-half are Hawaiians. There are
two official delegates to Washington, one of
whom is Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole,
usually called Prince Cupid.
A series of able men have succeeded Mr. Dole,
who in 1903 was appointed to another office.2
Hon. George B. Carter was the next governor
i The party at present in power in the United States appears
to have given very little attention to the Islands, except as a
source of income for deserving Democrats, if we may judge
from the latest Democratic platform. That document contains
the promise, "as soon as practicable, to give a territorial form
of government to Hawaii." For eighteen years they have had
it! 2 When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a
few months ago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him,
though all Hawaii petitioned for him. The position was given
to a Democrat.

80 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
until his resignation in 1907. Judge Walter F.
Frear held the position from that time until
1913, when Governor Pinkham was appointed,
who is still at the head of affairs in the terri
tory.

CHAPTEB IV
SERVANT AND SOIL
*S Americans have always been leaders in
the Islands, so they were the first to be
gin the cultivation of sugar, which is the
chief occupation. They commenced by using
their own capital, and then gradually interested
capitalists from the mainland. The Beciproc-
ity Treaty between the United States and the
Islands in 1876 gave a great impetus to the
sugar industry. Capital, particularly from
this country, was invested in the Islands, until
at present crops of more than 600,000 tons are
shipped away in a year.
One of the largest sugar plantations in the
world is that of the Hawaiian Commercial Sugar
Company on the island of Maui. It was Mr.
Claus Spreckles who bought crown land of the
Hawaiian Princess Buth and by his influence
with King Kalakaua secured irrigation water
for this tract at a nominal rental, then formed
a stock company to carry on the plantation.
The yearly product of these miles of cane fields
alone is 60,000 tons. 81

82 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
On Maui, Kauai and Hawaii skilfully engi
neered tunnels have brought down the water
needed for sugar raising. On Oahu artesian
wells have reached ' ' the water of magic power. ' '
We enjoyed an excursion to Judge Wide-
mann's plantation of Waianae on Oahu. Here
we saw a sugar-cane mill and wide meadows and
brakes of the thick growth, and the whole proc
ess of the work — the crushing of the cane into
molasses, the refining into sugar — and rode on
the tiny plantation railway among the waving
green stalks, while the blue sea sparkled on one
side, and bare, gaily coloured mountains rose
above us on the other.
Sugar raising in Hawaii probably furnishes
the most perfect example of scientific agricul
ture to be found under the flag of the United
States. "Think of always plowing two feet
deep, ' ' writes a friend, ' ' and not having to wait
for rain, but telephoning to the engineer to start
the pumps — of knowing at the end of a crop just
what elements and the amount of each have been
taken from the soil — of searching the world for
parasites to destroy the insect enemies of the
cane — of collecting and recording the life his
tory of all the insects found in countries bor
dering the Pacific and all the islands within its
borders, so that when some new pest appears,

" THE TINY PLANTATION RAILWAY AMONG THE WAVING GEEEN STALKS.

Servant and Soil 83
its origin and characteristics will be known —
of sending men out to wherever sugar-cane is
grown, in order to study and record its diseases,
and giving the planter coloured illustrations of
symptoms, so that he may know them in advance
of their arrival and be able to check the pest —
of the skilful manipulation of the soil, so that
there is a constant increase in the production."
In harvesting the cane a path is first opened
through the jungle, then the men, armed with
knives like butchers' cleavers, go in among the
dense growth to cut the stalks. After they
have "stripped" a field in this way, the cane
must be sent to the mill within twenty-four
hours, or the juice will ferment.
Here the Japanese women play their part —
for, among the Japanese, the women as well as
the men work on the plantations. They gather
up the stalks, which are not very heavy but are
decidedly unwieldy, and if the field is on high
land take them to wooden flumes through which
water is run from the irrigation ditches. The
women toss the great twelve-foot stalks into
the rapid stream which carries them down to a
loading place for cane-cars. Here the flume
branches into five "fingers," at the head of
which stands a man who opens one finger after

84 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
another, until the cars standing under them are
filled in turn.
Inside the cars are men who stack the cane
as it tumbles in, so that each car carries a max
imum load, laid in good order for the next proc
ess at the mill. Here, too, is an automatic
"giant-hand" on an endless belt, the "fingers"
of which, as it revolves, clutch the stalks of cane
like jackstraws and pass them up to a wide
belt that extracts every drop of juice so com
pletely that the refuse is fit only for fuel for the
furnaces. After the various processes of boil
ing down, evaporating, crystallizing and dry
ing, the raw sugar is shoveled into gunny-sacks,
which are filled to weigh exactly one hundred
pounds each. Again the women take hold, and
sew up the bags. The cost of raising and mar
keting sugar is from forty-five to seventy-five
dollars a ton.
Japanese women who work on the sugar
plantations may be seen sometimes knee-deep
in muddy-watery soil near the flumes, or again
out in the driest, hottest part of a newly
plowed field. They have discarded their usual
Japanese dress for a mixed costume, consisting
of a close-fitting waist of dark, figured, Japa
nese cotton crepe, a scant skirt to the knee,

Servant and Soil 85
khaki gaiters, and their own heavy cotton
"bootees." To protect their hair from dust
and their necks from the sun, they wear a piece
of Japanese toweling, which is tied across the
back of the head and hangs down on the shoul
ders. On top of this is perched a cheap Ameri
can sailor hat. The effect is certainly startling.
Some take their tiny babies in bright-figured
swaddling clothes with them, and put up a little
shelter tent of cloth and sticks, where the young
sters lie and sleep.
Most of the women who do agricultural work
are Japanese. A few years ago, when a ship
load of people came from Madeira, the women
told the immigration authorities that they had
come to work on the plantations. But, after a
very short time, they retired from this sort of
labour for the much pleasanter and more re
munerative business of making Madeira em
broidery. Among the Chinese the women
rarely go out of their own homes to work, al
though Oriental servants prevail all over these
Islands. Some of the younger generation of
Portuguese girls go out as nursemaids in white
families, but the majority of that race make
sewing and dressmaking or "clerking" their
means of support. It is surprising, indeed, to
see how few of the employees in any store are

86 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
"white"; bookkeepers, clerks, etc., are usually
young part-Hawaiians or part-Chinese.
From the beginning, when sugar was ready
for export, it was rarely shipped from the Ha
waiian Islands in any but American bottoms.
The American-Hawaiian Steamship Company —
the largest fleet sailing under the Stars and
Stripes and numbering twenty-eight vessels —
the Oceanic Steamship Company, and the Mat-
son Navigation Company, were all formed
largely because of the favourable contracts they
were able to make for carrying sugar, and the
Pacific Mail Steamship Company, which plied
between California and the Far East, stopped
at Honolulu because of the profit to be made by
carrying freight from the Islands. American
shipping on the Pacific, however, has always
been at a disadvantage, because foreign ships
can be built more cheaply than ours and are
usually subsidized.
As if these drawbacks were not enough, dur
ing the present Congress the Seaman's Act,
somewhat modified now to be sure, has had a
disastrous effect on American shipping on the
Pacific Ocean. The American boats used to
carry crews of well trained Chinamen. Under
this act the majority of the crew must be Eng
lish-speaking sailors and they cannot be pro-

Servant and Soil 87
cured in sufficient numbers nor can such boats
generally be run with sufficient economy to
compete with foreign flags. So trans-Pacific
trade has been given over almost entirely to the
Japanese, who have especially fine passenger
ships on that route to-day. As, according to
our laws, these boats are not permitted to carry
passengers or freight between American ports,
the service between the Islands and the United
States has been seriously crippled with conse
quent increase in rates of carriage. A resi
dent in the Islands writes, "When the last
Pacific Mail steamer sailed from Honolulu Har
bour, all flags were at half mast and Hawaii was
in mourning."
Still, the planters are cheerful. For 1916,
they look forward to an estimated production of
603,000 tons and a continuance of the present
high prices, which will enable them not only to
pay good dividends but also to install labour-
saving machinery and to make other improve
ments, by which they will produce sugar more
cheaply when the present era of high prices is
over. The shipments of raw sugar from Ha
waii for the year ending June 30, 1915, sold for
more than $51,000,000.
Next in importance to the sugar industry is
the production of pineapples. These are raised

88 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
only on the higher ground. The land is as
carefully prepared as a garden, and the soil
thoroughly pulverized. The plants are set in
furrows, and there are sometimes as many as
twelve thousand to the acre. They mature their
fruit in about two years. When the pineapple
ripens, from the lower part of the stump suck
ers appear, which bear fruit one year later.
These in turn grow suckers that come into
bearing the following year. Besides these
there are slips, that spring from the upper
part of the parent plant. New plants are
grown not only from suckers and slips, but
also from the crowns of the fruit, and growers
consider them all about equally good. The
plants almost never produce seeds, and when
found, they are used for experimental purposes
only. There are 24,000 acres of land in the pine
apple plantations of the Islands, and most of
them are on Oahu. There is never any frost,
and as there are no serious insect pests which
attack the fruit the crop is a very fine one. Nor
is irrigation necessary, so that thousands of
acres unavailable for sugar have brought in
millions of dollars to those who own or rent
these plantations.
The fields are carefully picked over every day

PINEAPPLE PLANTATION, ISLAND OF OAHU.

Servant and Soil 89
or two, and only perfectly ripe fruit is gath
ered. Hawaiian pineapples are rich in sugar
when fully matured, but if picked green, they
contain little sugar, and gain none after they
are taken from the plant. Extensive experi
ments have shown that the Smooth Cayenne
variety is far superior to all others, and it is
now the only one grown in the Islands. In no
instance are the fields more than a few miles
from the cannery, and the fruit is put in the
tins as soon as possible after it is picked. The
Hawaiian canneries are equipped with labour-
saving machinery. Aside from grading the
slices and filling the cans, all the work is done
by machines. The employees who handle the
fruit wear rubber gloves with gauntlets, and
the most modern sanitary methods are observed
throughout. Every night everything in the
factory is washed, steamed and scrubbed as
clean as possible.
When the fruit arrives at the cannery, it
passes into a machine which first cuts off both
ends, then takes out the core and removes the
rind. It is then conveyed to another, which
slices the whole pineapple in one operation.
From here it passes on a moving belt in front
of a line of workers, who select the perfect cy
lindrical pieces for the first grade.

90 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
From the packing table the tins go to the
syrup machine, where the fruit is covered with
a syrup made of clear water and granulated
sugar, thence to the exhaust box and double
sealer, where it is heated and the cover sealed
on the can. Then the can is conveyed to the
cooker, where it is submerged in boiling water
from twenty to thirty-five minutes, after which
it is left in the cooling room about twelve hours,
and then stacked in the warehouse until re
quired for shipment.
The history of this industry is interesting.
Only small amounts were canned previous to the
year 1901. There has been a steady increase
ever since, with a total output in 1914 of over
2,000,000 cases from nine canneries. Nothing
like this rapid increase in production and dis
tribution has ever been known before in the
canned-fruit trade. California, as every one
knows, is the greatest fruit-producing section
in the world, and her canned fruits are found
in practically every market, yet her average
total pack, of every variety except apples, from
1901 to 1910, was only about one-third more than
the pack of Hawaiian pineapples alone in 1914.
The total value of those shipped to the United
States for the year ending June 30, 1915, was
nearly $6,000,000.

Servant and Soil 91
Besides the other important staples raised
by the planters for export, coffee and rice are
produced in large quantities — over 3,000,000
pounds of each. The coffee grown in the dis
trict of Kona is famous. The Chinese are es
pecially good at market gardening. The Ha
waiians also plant taro for poi, which, although
now manufactured by machinery, is still their
favourite food, and is also eaten by the whites:
Doctors pronounce it most digestible and
strengthening. Duke Kahanamoku, a native
who has always lived on poi, is the champion
swimmer of the world. It is true that not only
poi but also the climate is favourable to our
race as well, for white boys brought up in Ha
waii have proved themselves to be strong, all
those who have gone into athletics in American
colleges having made fine records.
In addition to the products of the large plan
tations, wool, hides and skins from the ranches
are exported to a considerable extent. The
Shipman stock ranch, near Hilo, has been car
ried on for more than forty years. The Parker
ranch, however, is the largest, having 18,000
head of cattle — Herefords and Holsteins. The
long pods of the algaroba tree furnish a large
part of the feed for cattle and horses. This is
the carob tree of the New Testament, the pods of

92 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
which were the husks that the Prodigal Son fed
to the swine he tended. In the earlier days,
guano from the bird islands was exported, for
use as a fertilizer.
While plantation life in the Islands may be
monotonous for the resident, it is full of inter
est for the tourist who really takes time to see it.
An effort is made by the planters to furnish
recreation for their labourers. At Waialua on
Oahu a large hall has been built, where moving-
picture shows are given at intervals, political
meetings are held, and there are dances for the
white colony. The latter have tennis courts
near their homes and hold tournaments, to
which they invite players from other planta
tions. As work is over at four o'clock — the
hours being from five to eleven in the morning
and two to four in the afternoon — the men who
work in mill, store or office can play every after
noon. The Portuguese, Japanese and Hawaiian boys
have formed a baseball team, which represents
the plantation in a league of such teams. There
are match games by this league at different
places every Sunday. The Japanese at Waia
lua have a theater, the occasional performances
at which are announced during the day by a man
who drives through all parts of the plantation

Servant and Soil 93
in a hack covered with Japanese signs, beating
a drum. The native Hawaiians in country districts
often present ' ' tableaux" for the benefit of their
church or some charity fund. A friend of mine
told me she had once gone to a representation of
"Adam and Eve" which would have seemed
either sacrilegious or ridiculous if done by any
but these ingenuous, grown-up children. The
minister of the church played the part of Satan,
in a bright red union suit with a long tail; a
large native, in flowing white robes, with a
Santa Claus beard and mask, took the part of
the Deity and banished Adam and Eve, in brown
union suits the colour of their skin, from the
Garden of Eden. Other tableaux gave very
vivid portrayals of scenes from ancient days of
royalty, with its attendant pomp and ceremony,
and old Hawaiian legends. One of these was
about Paahana, a young Hawaiian girl, who was
afraid of the white settlers, and ran away to
the mountains, building herself a shelter of
grass among the bushes. Finally she was dis
covered by the white missionaries, who tried to
approach her, but she was wild with fear, and
vanished from sight into the forest. This story
was told in verse, sung to the tune of "Mauna
Kea," a hula dance.

94 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
These entertainments are never complete
without a dance for young and old, to music
sung and played by a quintette of native boys.
Besides the ukulele and the taro-patch, which
is a large ukulele with five strings instead of
four, they use the mandolin, violin, guitar and
bass-viol. The Hawaiians, being naturally mu
sical, have a keen sense of time and rhythm.
The Filipinos are also fond of dancing, and in
the Libby, McNiel and Libby pineapple can
nery, where many of this nationality are em
ployed, dances are held to make them more
contented with their isolated life.
Among the plantation labourers there is never
the abject poverty that is known in the Far
East for, in addition to steady wages, houses,
water, fuel and doctor's services are all pro
vided for them. Although the climate is semi-
tropical sunstroke is unknown. The men who
work around the machinery and the boiling
sugar wear as few clothes as possible, and the
women who sew up the bags of sugar as fast as
they are filled, have adopted the cool and com
fortable but hideous Hawaiian garb of the ho-
loku. The heat from the great boilers in the
mill is sometimes hard for the white men to bear,
but I have never heard of a case of heat-prostra
tion.

Servant and Soil 95
As a large part of the school work must be
done on the plantations I insert the following
description, given me by one of the teachers
of the school at Waialua, Oahu, the largest out
side of Honolulu.
"As the pupils are almost entirely foreign,
the first grade has three divisions, to accommo
date the number who enter it until they are able
to speak enough English to be properly graded.
Sometimes one finds here children of twelve to
fourteen years who have just come to Hawaii.
As a rule, they work hard to get out of the 'baby-
grade,' and are quickly promoted.
"I was the only white teacher in the school
besides the principal. The other teachers were
Hawaiian, half-white and Chinese Hawaiian
girls who had gone through the Honolulu Nor
mal School. They are good teachers, kind and
patient, and can instruct children in the same
slow manner in which they themselves learn.
There was also a young Hawaiian man, a Nor
mal graduate, who could help in many extra
ways, such as map-drawing, chorus-leading,
games, etc.
"Fifteen nationalities were represented in the
various grades — Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese,
Portuguese, Filipino, Spanish, Korean, Porto
Bican, and a few Scotch, English, Canadians,

96 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Germans and Americans, as well as Bussians
and Italians. Besides the pure bloods there
were many mixtures, such as American-Hawai
ian, Chinese-Hawaiian, Japanese-Portuguese,
German-Hawaiian, etc.
"The Japanese and Chinese were the best pu
pils in every way. The Hawaiians were tract
able, but stupid; Portuguese, smart but mis
chievous. School hours were from nine to
twelve, and from half past twelve to two. Most
of the children came from long distances, and
after the plantation school was dismissed, the
Japanese children went to a Japanese school for
two hours.
"In the first grade, I taught reading, writing
and 'rithmetic; also nature-study, in simple
form, story-work, folk songs and dances. These
last helped them a great deal in the new vocab
ulary, as they loved that part of the day's pro
gram. "It was interesting to note the habits of the
different nationalities at recess, especially in re
gard to their luncheon. The Japanese usually
were together out in the yard. They each had
their little tin pail with top and bottom section,
in which they carried fish and cold rice. I never
got a very close look at it, to know how the
fish was cooked, but I could smell it afar off!

Servant and Soil 97
They seemed very shy, and would try to hide
their lunch as I walked past. The Chinese were
even shyer about their lunch, for they never
gathered together, as the other nationalities did,
but went to some secluded spot and nibbled
away at an orange or something else.
"The Portuguese usually brought long rolls
of bread, which had been cut open and a red
jelly-like substance spread all along the inside.
They also had fruit, and especially the mango
in its season.
"A little Japanese store nearby kept cakes
and pastries, which were very popular when the
children had money, but the greatest delicacy
sold there seemed to be a rubbery substance,
which looked like a piece of resin, but could be
shaved in long strips. They called it dry squid,
but it did not seem like the dry squid I've tried
to masticate at native luaus, and I' never did
find out just what it was.
"The schools are all supported by the terri
torial government, which in turn receives the
plantation taxes, so the plantations themselves
do not directly support the schools, although the
children of the labourers comprise nine-tenths
of the pupils outside Honolulu.
' ' There is compulsory attendance until the age
of fourteen, and at Waialua a school policeman

98 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
— a Hawaiian — went all over the plantations on
horseback and found out if any of the children
were ill or playing truant."
Each nationality is housed more or less by
itself in small, one-story houses built in rows,
each group called a camp. The white men em
ployed as chemists, bookkeepers and clerks in
the general store usually live in a group near
the buildings where they are employed. They
are German, Scotch, Nojwegian, English and
Danish. Few Americans go into this work now,
although a number did in years past start out
as time-keepers and have become managers.
The Kanaka does not make a good manager,
but if he has some one to direct him he works
well, and he can learn almost any trade; of
course he is at his best as a sailor, and he is
such a wonderful rider that he makes an excel
lent cowboy.
At Waialua there is a small hospital where the
labourers are treated free, and in at least one of
the outlying camps there is a small cottage that
is used as a dispensary. The plantation doctor
has charge of the school children, vaccinating
all that need it at the opening of the school year
and watching them for signs of trachoma or lep
rosy. Social work on plantations has not been car-

Servant and Soil 99
ried on with a central organization as yet, and
the welfare of the labourers depends on the at
titude of the managers, who all belong to the
Sugar Planters ' Association. This holds yearly
meetings of a week or more in Honolulu, when
managers from all the Islands talk over ques
tions pertaining to their interests.
The agricultural situation in the Islands has
been carefully studied by the Bureau of Agri
culture and Forestry, which reports that there
are no other crops than sugar and pineapples
which can be recommended as a reliable industry
for the territory. This is true for several im
portant reasons.
In the first place, from an agricultural point
of view Hawaii is not a tropical country, and
the strictly tropical crops do not find optimum
climatic conditions. Neither has Hawaii a tem
perate climate, and the staple products of the
temperate zone cannot be relied upon.
The distance from the mainland markets im
poses a serious handicap. Moreover, both in
ter-island and inter-community transportation
is difficult and expensive, because Hawaii is a
group of comparatively small, mountainous is
lands with very few harbours.
It should be borne in mind, moreover, that
the area of cultivated land in Hawaii is very

100 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
small, the amount reclaimable still smaller, while
the needs of a growing population must be met.
This, of course, means intensive cultivation and
a high average rate of wealth production per
acre. In the ten-year period from 1900 to 1910,
the population increased 24.6 per cent and the
area of tillable land 3.6 per cent. The cen
sus reports also show that Hawaii is already
cultivating its land far more intensively than
the mainland states; for example, it supports
twenty-two times as many persons per acre of
improved arable land as the agricultural state
of North Dakota. Clearly, the problem in Ha
waii is peculiarly difficult.
It is true, also, that practically all tropical
industries demand a plentiful supply of cheap
labour. Labour in Hawaii is neither cheap nor
plentiful. In this respect, the Islands are at a
disadvantage compared with nearly all tropical
countries, but much money has been spent on
the industries, and the results are certainly en
couraging. How to secure cheap labour has always been a
serious question for the planters. The Bureau
of Immigration was established in 1876. When
the Beciprocity Treaty with the United States
was signed, several thousand Portuguese were
sent for by the government and the planters,

Servant and Soil 101
and many of them have remained in the country
and become good citizens. About the year 1888,
however, it was decided that the Chinese and the
Japanese should be encouraged to come, because
the cost of transportation for them was so much
less. For some years the larger part of the la
bourers were of these two nationalities. The
Japanese are still far in excess of all others,
numbering over 93,000. After annexation,
when the Congress of the United States pro
hibited immigration by the yellow races, Ha
waii was obliged to seek a supply from other
sources. Filipinos, of whom there are only
8,000, are next in number to the Japanese;
Portuguese, Chinese, Spaniards, and Porto
Bicans stand next.
After the expenses of the voyage were paid,
the labourers did not always keep their agree
ment to work, so contract labour was intro
duced. Although some objections have been
made to the contract system in Hawaii, it must
have proved fairly satisfactory to both parties,
for in those days a large number of labourers
would sign a second contract on the same terms,
showing at least that they were well treated and
paid according to agreement.
In some cases, Chinese and Japanese labour
ers remained in the Islands after their contract

102 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
expired, and settled there permanently. Many
of the Chinese became merchants. The Portu
guese went into fruit raising, and the Japanese
kept mostly to the coffee plantations. In those
days, the Japanese had labour unions, and they
were sometimes troublesome.
Hawaii, owing to the lack of coal and iron and
other minerals, can never be a manufacturing
country, hence must always depend largely upon
the United States for such goods. The Islands
spend a large part of $60,000,000 yearly for im
ported articles, although, since Hawaii is a ter
ritory of the United States, goods received from
the American mainland are not classified in
census returns as imports.
With the opening of the Panama Canal, the
Hawaiian Islands are a necessary coaling sta
tion between the Atlantic Coast and the Far
East. In anticipation of increased traffic, the
harbours have been enlarged, new wharves
built, a floating drydock installed, the channel
widened and deepened in the harbour of Hono
lulu, breakwaters built at Hilo and Kahului,
modern freight- and coal-handling apparatus
provided, and fuel oil depots established.

CHAPTEB V
IN AND OUT
ONOLULU itself the traveler may per
haps be able to see in a day, with Ameri
can rush, while the steamer stops on the
way to Japan. To take trips on Oahu, go surf-
riding, indulge in a luau, visit the plantations,
and make an excursion to the volcanoes in the
other islands, you must stay at least a few
weeks, so that you may really see it all and have
time to dream of its wonderful beauties.
Honolulu is the oldest, and so by far the most
attractive, town in the Islands. Besides visits
to Waikiki, the Pali, and Punchbowl, there are
many delightful excursions on the island of
Oahu. The Trail and Mountain Club has made
excellent paths to the mountain tops, where you
can get superb views. The lovely falls of
Kaliuwaa are especially celebrated, while a trip
to Hauula is pleasant. The coral gardens are
entrancing, and near these one can see the larg
est wireless station in the Islands. In the great
pineapple district, Wahiawa, there is a good
103

104 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
hotel and fine bass fishing, and not far away is
a big military camp.
To-day the excursion to the other islands is
made fairly comfortable on the steamers of the
Inter-Island Navigation Company, and one can
motor to the very brink of Kilauea. But at
the time of our first visit the journey was some
thing to be endured, for the sake of the wonders
at the end. The story has been often told by
travelers, yet it may be worth while to recount
our own experiences.
The trip certainly could not be recommended
for pleasure in those days. The tiny boat was
loaded down with pigs and cattle and sickly
smelling sugar. The crossings were far worse
than the English Channel, and our wretched
little steamer reeled before the winds and tossed
upon the waves. To add to our discomfort, the
boat was by no means swift, and hours were con
sumed between the innumerable small landing-
places. When we had the pleasure of stepping
on solid earth once more, we found very poor
hotels, if you could call them by that name, and
finally, we were disappointed in the volcano
itself, which was not active enough to suit us.
At our departure from Honolulu, we were
quite covered with leis by the kind friends who
gathered at the dock to see us off. Our boat

In and Out 105

plunged almost immediately into the high seas
of the channel between Oahu and Molokai.
As we passed the latter island, we had a distant
view of the leper colony, on a triangle of level
land, at the foot of a precipice three thousand
feet high that effectually guards the patients
from the landward side.
At first the lepers resisted the attempt to
banish them to the colony, and their relatives,
who seemed to have no fear of the disease, con
cealed those who were afflicted, but this opposi
tion decreased as the natives learned that the
lepers were to be supported in comfort by the
Government. They have a school, a library,
newspapers, musical instruments, a theater,
even moving-picture shows now, I am told — in
short, everything is done to make their lives as
pleasant and comfortable as possible.
Mark Twain writes of a beautiful custom in
the colony. "Would you expect," he says, "to
find in that awful leper settlement a custom
worthy of transplanting to your own country?
When death sets open the prison door of life
there the band salutes the very soul with a burst
of golden music."
On this island where the natives have retained
their primitive habits and beliefs more than on
ihe others of the group, the Poison God was

106 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
saved at the time the idols were destroyed, a
hundred years ago. It was kept here in charge
of kahunas until near the end of the last cen
tury, and it is not definitely known whether it
may not even now be in existence. This hideous
image seems to have had the power to kill those
who handled it. It has been suggested that it
was made of some poisonous wood, and only
the priests knew how to hold it without harm.
The boat reeled on through another rough
passage to the double island of Maui, consisting
of two great mountain peaks joined by a low
isthmus of lava, which by degrees filled up the
channel between the two original islands. We
made endless stops, and by means of small boats
took on and off freight, cattle, and passengers
— native, Chinese and Japanese.
Our first landing was at Lahaina, once the
capital of the group and the rendezvous for all
the whaling ships in the Pacific. Now it is a
dilapidated village, attractive only for its beau
tiful situation.
At Wailuku, at the northern end of the isth
mus, was the home of "Father Alexander," well
known as one of the early missionaries. The
name Wailuku means "Water of Destruction."
A great battle was fought near here by Kame
hameha the Great.

In and Out 107

Unfortunately we were unable to see the Ditch
Trail, so well described by Jack London, or
visit the famous lao Valley, of which we had
read such glowing descriptions. The entrance
to this "gulch" is by a dark, wooded gorge"
that broadens out into an amphitheater sur
rounded by precipices as lofty as those of the
Yosemite. These cliffs are covered with masses
of trees, shrubs, and graceful, feathery ferns,
wliich are veiled in turn by the mists from a
thousand waterfalls. At the head of the valley
stands the Needle, a natural watch-tower — of
rock, but green with a luxuriant vegetation —
to which the defeated army retreated in the
battle of the Wailuku.
East Maui consists entirely of the huge ex
tinct volcano of Haleakala, "house built by the
sun. ' ' This, the largest extinct volcano on the
surface of the globe, lifts its enormous crater,
twenty miles in circumference, to the height of
ten thousand feet above the sea. Some titanic
eruption blew off the top of the mountain and
scooped it out to the depth of two thousand feet.
From the bottom of this vast cavity rise many
cones — the largest a hill of seven hundred feet —
and there are two great gaps in the walls,
through which lava flows once made their way
down to the plain. Here and there on the desert

108 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
that forms the floor of the crater are scattered
clumps of silversword, with long leaves shining
in the sun. This plant grows only at a high
altitude. Hunting for it is like hunting for the
edelweiss in Switzerland. Its nearest botanical
relative is found in the Himalaya Mountains.
From the highest point of the rim of Haleakala
these plants are said to appear about the size
and brightness of silver dollars.
Glad enough we were to land at Hilo — Ha
waiian for "new moon." It takes its name
from the superb crescent of the bay, two miles
in length, perhaps the most beautiful on the
shores of the Pacific Ocean. At one end of the
semicircle is Cocoanut Island, crowded with
glorious palms that seem eager for the salt
water, stretching their heads far out over it, as
if they would drink it up. As it is on the wind
ward side of the island, the trade winds bring
Hilo a yearly rainfall of 150 inches, and the
result is seen in the luxuriance of the vegetation,
which nearly hides the buildings of the little
city in its depths. With the bay in front, the
dense forest belt in the rear, and the towering
masses of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the
background, the situation of Hilo is glorious in
its beauty.
On the thirty-mile trail to the crater we

SILVEKSWOHD IX BLOOM, lis THE C WATER OF IIALKAKALA.

In and Out 109

passed first between the brakes of cane planta
tions, then through a fine tropical forest.
Among the trees we could see many gay and
beautiful flowers, curious fruits and enormous
tree ferns, while in the interior were lovely
glades and the little bungalows of the coffee
planters. But the island was only just being
developed, so there were numbers of ranches
in the first stages of raw newness.
A search through the forests on some of the
islands would disclose the beautifully coloured
landshells. These exquisite little creatures
grow on the leaves of the trees. Many of the
native birds have become extinct; there were
originally seventy varieties. Game birds, how
ever, have been introduced from America and
China, and from other countries both north and
south, including wild turkeys, quail, pheasants
and ducks.
We arrived at the crater late at night, to find
only a miserable hotel with a drunken propri
etor. (Liars had told us it was good.) We
were forced to pass the night there, but stayed
the next day only long enough to visit the
crater. Kilauea was for us a great disappointment.
It is not imposing in its situation, lying low on
the gradual slope of Mauna Loa. We had been

110 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
thrilled by pictures of the great pit of Halemau-
mau, the ' ' house of everlasting fire. ' ' * We had
read of fountains of fire thrown a thousand feet
into the air, of great fissures from which burst
clouds of deadly sulphurous vapours, of inde
scribable terrors as huge billows of glowing
lava surged against the rim of the pit, of chang
ing colours, marvelous beauty, of ropes and ser
pents of cooling rock in a myriad writhing and
contorted shapes, of raging floods pouring down
to the plain in rivers of fire from one-half to
two miles in width. But alas! none of these
wonders were for us. We saw only a far-
stretching lake of cold, black lava, over which
we could walk for miles, as safe as if we were at
home. Out of a pit in the center rose a column
of white vapour — which did not even smell in
fernal. Pele was sleeping.
We had three days to wait in Hilo until our
steamer should be ready to return to Honolulu.
The hotel was a funny little one, near the sea,
but we were fairly comfortable, and amused
ourselves in various ways. For one thing, we
tried several of the delicious tropical fruits that
were to be had here — water-lemons, mangoes,
1 Castle says Halemaumau really means, "home of the
Maumau fern," this fern having a leaf much like the curled
and twisted lava in shape.

In and Out 111

papayas, mountain apples and guavas. We
went on a picnic, and some one was kind enough
to lend me a riding habit and a pony that had
won some races. I rode astride, in native
fashion. This was my first but by no means my
last experience of this most natural and com
fortable mode of riding. Then I had an old
native woman to lomi-lomi me — Hawaiian for
massage — as I was very lame from my long
rides, and I was as much amused by her as bene
fited by her treatment.
We decided this was our opportunity to see
a hula, and asked the coachman at the hotel to
make arrangements for us at a native house.
As part of the preparations, he gave the per
formers some wine, so the dance was in full
swing when we arrived. They had made leis,
which they put on us and also on themselves.
A fat but good looking native woman in a holoku
danced, while some others played. Another
pretty native woman said she was dying to
dance, but her husband, a white man, was not
willing, and the last time she did it he beat her,
so she did not dare to try again. It was a
strange scene — the native house, the dim lights,
and the wild, suggestive dance.
The trip back to Honolulu, though only two
hundred miles in length, occupied two nights

112 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and a day of rough and tumble sailing, after
wliich we were happy to get to our bungalow
and Chinaman once more.
Now, the Inter-Island boats leave Honolulu
twice a week for Hilo and once a week for
Kona and Kau, on the lee side of the island. It
is quite a different trip from that in the old
days. On the way to Hilo the first landing is
usually at Kawaihae, an insignificant village, of
no interest except for the great heiau of Kame
hameha I, the last heathen temple erected in the
Islands, dating from 1791. It is over two hun
dred feet long and one hundred feet wide, and
the walls are twelve feet thick at the base.
When this temple was dedicated to the favourite
war-god of the King, besides vast quantities of
fruit and great numbers of hogs and dogs,
eleven human beings were sacrificed on the altar.
Hilo is to-day a modern city of 10,000 people,
and the shipping point for all the sugar raised
on the windward side of the island. A breakwa
ter now in process of construction will make its
harbour a perfectly safe anchorage for mer
chant ships.
One may make the entire circuit of the island
by motor from Hilo. On a branch road from
the highway to Kilauea is Green Lake, an
emerald-tinted sheet of water occupying an old

In and Out 113

crater. In the forest surrounding this lake the
rare pink begonia, an exquisite plant, used to
grow, but I am told by Mr. Castle it has become
extinct. Continuing to the southwest, the road passes
through the district of Kau to Kona. Here,
indeed, is the "Paradise of the Pacific." Pro
tected from the trade winds by the huge moun
tain masses of Mauna Loa and Hualalai, it en
joys mild breezes from the west, which blow
in from the sea all day long but give place at
sunset to a wind from the mountain that cools
the night. The Hawaiians have a saying that
in Kona "people never die; they dry up and
blow away." Daily showers toward sunset and
at night keep the vegetation ever fresh and
green, and make this a rich agricultural region.
Honaunau, in Kona, contains the largest of
the "cities of refuge," in the walls of which are
stones weighing several tons raised as high as
six feet from the ground. Within these massive
walls were three large heiaus, also houses for
the priests and refugees. The gates were
always open, and the fugitive who had crossed
the threshold was absolutely safe. Old men,
women, little children, defeated soldiers, all
were received here, and when once the great
gods had taken them under their protection,

114 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
they were safe even when they returned to
their homes.
It was on the coast of Kona, at Kaawaloa,
that Captain Cook was killed by the natives. A
monument has been erected there, which bears
this inscription : "In Memory of the Great Cir
cumnavigator Captain James Cook, B. N., who
discovered these islands on the 18th of January,
a. d. 1778, and fell near this spot on the 14th of
February, a. d. 1779. This monument was
erected in November, a. d. 1874, by some of his
fellow countrymen."
At Kailua, a seashore village further north,
is the old palace of the kings of the islands.
This is far from imposing in its appearance.
At this place one may watch a primitive method
of shipping cattle. With their horns tied to the
side of a rowboat, the poor creatures are
dragged through the water to the steamer, then
are hoisted on board by pulleys.
The road passes next through the Kohala dis
trict, in which the town of that name is of in
terest as the birthplace of Kamehameha the
Great. The Kohala ditch, twenty-five miles
long, brings water from the mountains to the
sugar plantations, fifteen miles of the way
through tunnels. One may leave the main road
here and take a horseback ride along this ditch,

ON THE SHORES OF KAUAI, THE GARDEN ISLAND

In and Out 115

from which one can enjoy the magnificent
scenery of the Waipio and Waimanu valleys,
enormous "gulches," separated by sheer preci
pices hundreds of feet in height.
The trip to Kauai, the "Garden Island," from
Honolulu, requires but a single night, but is a
rough passage. At Waimea Captain Cook
made his first landing on the Islands. Here,
too, is the ruined fort built by a Bussian trader,
and over which the Bussian flag was raised.
The trip through the Waimea Gulch, which is
called a miniature Grand Canyon of the Colo
rado, rewards the traveler with magnificent
scenery. At the deepest part the cliffs are
3,000 feet high and the valley is a mile in width.
It is said that "in the decomposing rocks the
colours are as vivid as though volcanic fires
were still at work."
On the shore, at the extreme western point of
the island, are the Barking Sands, a row of
sand dunes. "The wind on the sands makes
them rustle like silk; to slide down them pro
duces a sound like thunder; to stamp on them
makes them cry out in different cadences."
Not far away is an old bathing beach, where a
bath was supposed to bring good luck.
At Hanalei Biver is one of the most ancient of
the deep-water fish ponds. According to an old

116 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
tradition, this was built in a single night by
Menehunes, a mythical race of dwarfs, who
were noted for their industry and mechanical
skill and their feats of engineering.
Everywhere one is struck by the preponder
ance of Japanese among the inhabitants. Since
this great war broke out, Japan has taken from
Germany the Ladrone Islands, just north of
Guam, on the way to the Philippines. She has
also taken the Marshall Islands, which bring her
outposts fifteen hundred miles nearer to the
Pacific coast of America. If we are inclined to
be a bit pessimistic over the future fate of Ha
waii, perhaps a piece of recent news from Nip
pon may encourage us.
Japan has just passed a law permitting Japa
nese to become American citizens. As nearly
half the present inhabitants of the Islands are
Japanese and 4,000 Japanese children are born
there in a year, this is an interesting considera
tion when difficulties between Japan and Amer
ica are talked of. The Japanese-American
Citizens' Association was organized by a few
Japanese who are citizens by right of birth, and
has grown to a membership of more than fif
teen hundred. It takes an interest in municipal
affairs, discusses the questions of the day, and
teaches young Hawaiian-born Japanese the

In and Out 117

principles and duties of good citizenship. Bev.
S. Sokabe, of Honolulu, gives its members the
following advice:
"Hawaiian-born Japanese have a great mis
sion to-day. The Japanese of Hawaii must be
come the pacificators should trouble come be
tween Japan and America. . . . You owe it to
yourselves to do this. Learn to be good Ameri
can citizens, and then you will be able to help in
case of trouble. You can do more to keep peace
than ambassadors and ministers. ... If trou
ble should come with Japan, you must remember
that you are the sons of the President, not the
sons of the Emperor."
Under the old Japanese law Japanese born
in Hawaii were still subjects of Japan. Under
the law lately enacted by the Diet and House of
Peers of Japan, which went into effect June 1,
1916, all Japanese born in a foreign country
have the right at the age of fifteen to decide
whether they will become subjects of Japan or
of the country of their birth; they must, how
ever, first get the consent of their parents before
giving up their citizenship in Japan.
Patriotic Americans should no longer think
of Hawaii as she was eighteen years ago at
the time of annexation. Then the Japanese
labourer on the sugar plantations was an alien

118 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and un-American. Now he is a factor and his
children a greater factor in the American civil
ization of the Pacific!
Moreover, to show how American and
patriotic most of the islanders are, I give an
account of the celebration of Washington's
Birthday, when a splendid parade took place.
It included the military and naval forces of the
Islands, as well as Hawaiians, Chinese and
Japanese — all helping to make it a success.
The native police led the procession on horse
back. In quick succession the troops of the
cavalry rode by, saluting the Governor as they
passed the reviewing stand. The First Field
Artillery followed, with their guns. Then the
"Dough Boys" — as the infantry men are called
— companies from the Second and the Twentieth
United States Infantry; after these came the
bluejackets from the four United States war
ships lying in the harbour, with their field
pieces, each manned by a gun crew; then the
marines and the Bed Cross brigade. The
cadets of the school for young Hawaiians and
the National Guard of Hawaii presented a fine
military appearance.
One of King Kalakaua 's descendants, Prince
Kuhio, and his brother's son, little Prince Kala
kaua, were among the leaders ; also the so-called

In and Out 119

Island Princesses, all on horseback. They were
chosen to represent the five large islands, and
had escorts of young girls on horseback dressed
in the pau, followed by some lively cowboys on
ponies. Then came the floats, from which confetti were
thrown. One float represented an elaborate
tableau of a battle between the new Chinese re
public and the old Manchu dynasty. Some took
the part of the new army with their modern uni
forms, and others in the old costumes lay very
realistically dead behind their guns.
As evening came on the Japanese people
began to assemble in the park down in the
Oriental quarter, and from there marched to the
palace grounds, then past the four American"
battleships at the docks, where they gave their
banzai for the sailors, and were given in return
a hearty American "three cheers," showing the
good feeling between the two countries.
In view of the strategic value of the Islands,
which, for more than fifty years, American
naval officers have endeavoured to impress upon
our Government, it is pleasant to learn of the
loyalty and whole-hearted Americanism of the
people of Hawaii. If Oahu, Guam and the
Panama Canal are well fortified and sufficient
numbers of troops and warships are stationed

120 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
at these posts they will protect our Pacific coast
better than any number of harbour defenses.
And now, with the banzai of these newest
Americans ringing in our ears, we must say our
"Aloha" to these dream Islands, almost too
perfect to be real. We say farewell, but the
Spell of Hawaii will always be upon us.

THE PHILIPPINES

THE PHILIPPINES
CHAPTEB I
MANILA AS WE FOUND IT
;IGH on the bridge of the Pacific Mail
Steamer Siberia we stood as we passed
through the Boca Chica — the narrow
channel — into the historic waters of Manila
Bay. On one side was the mountainous island
of Corregidor, rising steeply out of the sea and
masking in its tropic growth many batteries and
guns, on the other was the splendid mountain,
Mariveles, and in the distance fine ranges rising
from the sparkling ocean. Far away on the
horizon, across the huge bay, lay Manila, the
capital of the Philippine Islands.
Three weeks before we had left Hawaii, two
days later we had steamed by Midway Island.
Then we passed a few days in Japan, and
coasted along the superb island of Formosa,
rightly named "the beautiful" — where great
mountains dipped down into the still sea — and
now we were entering the Philippines, the real
objective point of the official party — there were
eight of us — in which we were so fortunate as to
123

124 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
be included. We were at last going to see the
interesting results of Spanish rule for three
centuries, upon which were being grafted all the
energy and scientific and social knowledge of the
twentieth-century American.
Although both Hawaii and the Philippines are
under American rule, they are like different
worlds. The Land of the Palm and Pine is a
much bigger problem for the United States than
Hawaii. The latter is nearer home, a smaller
group of islands, and is quite Americanized. It
is the commercial hub of the Pacific, an impor-.
tant coaling station, an outlying protection for
the California coast. The natives are of Poly
nesian extraction and American education;
they are quite unlike the Filipinos in character,
who are Malaysian and have had centuries of
Spanish influence. The Filipinos clamour for
independence, the Moros and the wild tribes
must be carefully handled, while the Hawaiian
is contented with his lot. Besides the necessity
of maintaining an army in the Philippines so
far from home, one hundred and one other dif
ficulties are to be considered. With these facts
in mind, we looked forward to interesting ex
periences in the Islands, and we were not dis
appointed. As we approached Manila, some small scout

GOVERNOR GEXEUAL CAMERON FORBES.

Manila as We Found It 125
boat£, all flag bedecked, came out and joined
us, and fell in behind in procession, then larger
boats, one bringing the excellent Constabulary
Band, which played gaily. Another, wliich had
officials on board, exchanged greetings with us
across the water, and others with unofficial peo
ple added their welcome. Quarantine was made
easy, and all difficulties with customs officials
were spared us. When we reached the dock it
was massed with the people who had landed
from the boats and with crowds from the town.
At once Governor General Cameron Forbes
came on board to greet the Secretary of War,
and then followed a reception, the guests rang
ing from the apostolic delegate in his robes,
the consular officials and insular officers, and
the army and navy in spotless gold-braided uni
forms, to the leading citizens, very intelligent
looking and well mannered, and members of the
Assembly. The dock was lined with troops,
who paid the military honours.
After the reception on shipboard the Secre
tary and Mrs. Dickinson and the official mem
bers of the party were whirled off in autos, with
a squadron of cavalry clattering along as escort.
Another motor was waiting for us, and we soon
joined the procession as it moved to the palace.
We were much interested in the sights in the

126 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
streets. There were numbers of carromatos,
little covered two-wheeled carriages, drawn by
stocky Filipino ponies. The streets in this part
of the town are wide, and the houses have over
hanging balconies, in Spanish style. In honour
of the Secretary, the buildings were draped
with flags. Near the wharf the land had lately
been filled in, and great docks were in construc
tion. There was a new boulevard near the old
Luneta, and an avenue named after President
Taft, besides a big hotel and a hospital that had
then just been finished. The harbour was filled
with vessels, electric cars were running, and
autos were to be seen, so at first it all looked
quite up to date, until you met a carabao slowly
swaying down the street, hitched to a two-
wheeled cart, with a brown boy in red trousers,
pina shirt and a big straw hat sitting on his
back — "carry boy," as Secretary Dickinson
named the animal. The "carry boys" do not
like white people, and sometimes charge them,
stamping and goring them with their horns, but
a small Filipino boy seems to have perfect con
trol of them, and if they are allowed occa
sionally to wade in a puddle, which cools them
off, they do not "go loco," or crazy.
It was in the palace of Malacanan, or Govern
ment House, as it is sometimes called, that Sec-

Manila as We Pound It 127
retary and Mrs. Dickinson and ourselves stayed
with the Governor General. This is a large,
rambling structure in a garden by the Pasig
Biver. Under the porte-cochere we entered a
stone hall, off wThich were offices, then went up a
long flight of stairs to a big hall looking into a
court. This hall was hung with oil paintings of
Spanish governors, quite well done by native
artists, and in the center stood a huge one-piece
table of superb nara wood, covered with gleam
ing head-axes and spears, bolos, krisses, cam-
pilans, and lantankas, used by the wild tribes
and Moros.
Our rooms were large and empty, as was the
entire palace — indeed, so are all the houses on
account of the heat. The polished floors, too,
are made of huge planks, sometimes of such
valuable tropical woods as rosewood and ma
hogany, and are left bare. It took a little time
to accustom ourselves to the hard beds with rat
tan bottoms, covered only by two sheets. They
were carved and four-posted, and draped with
mosquito netting. Two little brown lizards
squeaked at us in a friendly manner, and crept
down the walls, out of curiosity, no doubt, little
ants kept busily crawling across the room in a
line, and the mosquitoes that hid in my clothes
in the rack during the daytime buzzed about at

128 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
night. The heat was great, notwithstanding
the electric fan, but the sliding screens that
formed the sides of the room gave us some re
lief. These shutters are like Japanese shoji,
made of small panes of an opalescent shell to
soften the intensity of tropic sunlight, with
green slit bamboo shades pulled halfway down.
When I used to write or read I sat on my
rattan bed under the mosquito netting; there I
could look out of the parted sides of the house
to the red hibiscus border of the garden stretch
ing along the narrow Pasig. Boatmen, in coni
cal straw hats, perched at the ends of their
bancas, paddled the hollowed-out logs rapidly
through the water, or floated idly by, smoking
their cigarettes ; these boats were loaded to the
gunwale with green grasses, and had canopies
of matted straw. Launches, too, came chug
ging past, towing the big high poops covered
with straw-screened cascos. Over beyond the
river was a flat all in a green tangle, with the
thatched nipa houses on their stilts. For the
palace stands outside the more thickly settled
parts of the city, which in turn surround the
walled town.
Manila to-day is a curious mixture of native
nipa shacks and old Spanish churches and forts
with the up-to-date American buildings and im-

The Pasig River

 Manila as We Found It 129
provements. There are the different quarters,
as in all cities of the Orient — Chinese, native and
so on — and each has its own distinctive sights.
The street smells, which are never lacking in
a city, reminded us of India.
The walled city has picturesque gates break
ing through the old gray battlements — the mas
sive wall was begun in 1590 — and ancient sentry
houses at the corners, while behind rise the
white balconies of old convents and monasteries,
and buildings now used for government pur
poses, and towers of churches. The old moats
have been filled up for sanitary reasons and are
being made into wide sweeps of lawn and flower
gardens, and the famous Malecon, the drive be
neath the city walls, which was once upon the
sea front, has been removed too far inland
by the filling of the harbour to retain its old
charm. "Intramuros" (within the walls) more than
half the land belongs to the Church, and church
buildings abound. These are really inferior,
compared with those we saw in Mexico, but some
of them are very old. The Augustinian Church,
finished in 1605, has enormously thick walls and
a stone crypt of marvelous strength.
In the center of the town is Plaza McKinley,
but the main business street is the narrow

130 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Escolta, made to look still narrower by the over
hanging second stories of the buildings.
We visited the botanical gardens, a shaded
park with winding paths beneath acacias and
mango trees. We drove, too, through the nar
row streets of the suburb of San Miguel, where
we looked into tangled gardens of tropical
plants, behind which were houses with broad
verandas and wide-opening sides, covered by a
wonderful screen of a sort of mauve morning
glory, which blooms, however, all day long.
The native houses are built of bamboo with
braided grass walls and thatched roofs, and are
raised on stilts because of the rainy season.
We went to order some embroidery one day of
a Tagalog woman. Climbing a ladder into a
small house, we saw the whole family sitting on
the floor, working over a long frame. In some
of these shacks they have a small room for
visitors, with chairs and a table, and cheap
prints of the Virgin on the walls. Under the
house are kept usually a pig and a pony. One
woman was very successful — she not only had
waist patterns to show and to sell, but had a
standing order from Marshall Field, in Chicago.
We also visited a still more prosperous em
broidery house, built of stucco, with a court
yard. These people were Spanish mestizos.

Manila as We Found It 131
A visit to the cigarette factory to which we
were taken by Mr. Legarda showed us one of
the characteristic industries of the city and gave
us an idea of the deftness and quickness of
those who are employed in this work. The lit
tle women who pack the cigarettes can pick up
a number of them and tell in a twinkle by the
feeling just how many they hold, and the cigar
wrappers work with greatest rapidity and sure-
ness and make a perfect product. It was all
very clean and fresh, with hundreds of em
ployees in the large, airy rooms. A band
played as we went through the building, and we
had a generous luncheon and received innumer
able presents from the managers.
Opportunity was given us for sundry little
exploring trips into the suburbs of Manila.1
We rode on horseback, in company with Secre
tary Dickinson, Governor Forbes and General
Edwards, among little native shacks, through
overgrown lanes beyond the city, and along the
beach, where we saw fishermen's huts and men
mending their nets, to the Polo Club. The
i A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the
fertile valley of the Cagayan. The gorge of Pagsanjan is
very beautiful. Los Banos is an old bathing establishment
not far from Kalamba, where Bizal was born. It is part of
a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which
was a fashionable resort in days gone by. Now an American
military hospital has been built there.

132 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Governor, who was most generous in giving
money of his own to benefit the Islands, not only
built the clubhouse and laid out the field at his
own expense, but even imported Arabian horses
and good Western ponies. This club is a fine
thing to keep army officers in good condition and
give them exercise and amusement, as well as to
bring good horses into the Islands. The club
house, of plaited grasses, bamboo and wood, is
on the edge of the beach, from which one can
see the beautiful sunsets across the bay and
catch the faint line of the mountains in the dis
tance. It all seemed very far-away and tropical
and enchanting.
The English-speaking residents of Manila
have various other clubs, among which the
Army and Navy, the English, and the University
are perhaps the most important. The Officers'
Club, at Fort McKinley (seven miles from
Manila) has a superb situation, commanding a
fine view of the mountains.
As we landed in Manila early Sunday morn
ing, we were in time for service in the Episcopal
cathedral, which had just been built. This is
a handsome building in the Spanish style, large
and airy, with an effective altar. It was erected
by an American friend of Bishop Brent, the
Episcopal bishop, who has done fine work in the

 Manila as We Found It 133
Islands. According to a story that is related of
this good man, he made a journey at one time
into the interior of Luzon, where he found the
natives sadly in need of instruction in ways of
personal cleanliness. As soon as he reached the
mail service again, he wrote to America for a
ton of soap, which was duly shipped to him and
used for the purification of the aborigines.
I was glad to visit also Bishop Brent's orphan
school, consisting principally of American-mes
tizo children. The native women, when de
serted by their white lovers, generally marry
natives, who often ill-treat these half-white
children, and sometimes sell them as slaves.
Miss Sibley, of Detroit, was in charge of this
school, which was in a big, comfortable house
near the native shacks on the edge of the town,
and had twelve pupils at that time.
A convent of Spanish nuns on a small island
in the river, interested me greatly. It was then
under the supervision of the government, for it
was at that time not only a convent but also a
poorhouse, a school for orphans, an asylum for
insane men and women, and a reformatory for
bad boys. The embroidery done at the convent
was better than that made by the natives in
their houses, as the thread used was finer. The
nuns charged more than the natives, but they

134 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
would also cut and sew, thus finishing the gar
ments. Articles embroidered by native women
were never made up by them, but had to be
taken to a Chinese tailor.
The linen must first be bought, however, so I
tried to do a little shopping in the city, but
found it very unsatisfactory. The shops are
poor, and, as one traveler has said, you can get
nothing you want in them, but plenty of things
you don't want, for which you can pay a very
high price.
One day I was taken to a cockpit, where
a cockfight was to come off. This is one of
the characteristic amusements of the Filipinos,
which they have engaged in since the year 1500.
It is so popular that it would be difficult to
put a stop to it all at once, but it has been re
stricted by the government to Sundays and
legal holidays, which is something of a victory.
(They are also passionately fond of horse rac
ing, in regard to which other restrictions have
been made.) Outside, beggars, old and blind,
were crawling over the ground ; natives strolled
around, petting their birds, which they carried
under their arms ; and vendors with dirty trays
of sweetmeats wandered about. We bought our
tickets and passed into the rickety amphi
theater.

Manila as We Found It 135
Cocks were crowing, and such a howling as
went on, the audience all looking toward us as
we entered. It seemed as if they were angry
with us for stepping into the arena, and yet
there was no other way to reach the seats. Our
guides pointed to a shaky ladder that led into
a gallery, but we preferred to sit far back in
the chairs about the pit. There were natives,
Chinese, and mestizos present. We soon dis
covered that they were not angry with us, but
we had entered at a moment when the betting
was going on, and the cocks in the ring were so
popular that there was great excitement.
Each cock was allowed to peck the neck of
the other and get a taste of blood, while they
were still held under their owners ' arms. The
fighting cocks did not look quite like ours.
They were armed for the fray with sharp
"slashers" attached to their spurs. When the
betting had subsided the cocks were left to them
selves in the ring, and they generally went for
each other at once. What a hopping and scut
tling! Feathers flew, the crowd cheered, and
the cocks went at each other again and again
until they were hurt or killed. The referee
then decided upon the victor. Sometimes the
cocks did not seem to interest the crowd, and
then their owners would take them out of the

136 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
ring before fighting ; at times the cocks refused
to fight. It was not so exciting as I had ex
pected, and when we considered that the birds
were to be eaten anyway, it did not seem so
cruel and terrible as I thought it would.
Speaking of cocks being eaten, the principal
foods of the Filipinos are fowls and eggs, as
well as rice, fish and carabao meat, but as the
"carry-boys" are good workers they are not
often eaten. Pigs are kept by the Filipinos,
and are put on a raised platform for about six
weeks before killing, so as to keep them clean
and fatten them with good food. Salads, craw
fish and trout, as well as cocoanut milk, red wine
and wild coffee, are among the things they live
on. Army people in the Islands often have, in
addition, wild deer and wild boar which are shot
by the American officers, besides excellent game
birds, such as the minor bustard, jungle fowl,
wild chicken, quail, snipe and duck.
I was asked to receive with the Secretary and
Mrs. Dickinson and General and Mrs. Edwards,
at the Governor General's reception at Mala-
canan, where we stood in line and shook hands
with some seventeen hundred persons. It was a
remarkable scene. The palace, which opens up
handsomely, and the terrace overhanging the
river, were outlined by a myriad electric lights,

Manila as We Found It 137
while launches came and went with guests, and
the Philippine Constabulary Band played in the
interior court. The papal delegate was there
in his canonicals, with his accompanying mon-
signors, and barefooted friars in cowls. There
were foreign consuls in their uniforms, and
many Filipina women, with pretty manners and
dainty ways, some in their native dress, wliich
is so quaint and gaily coloured. Insurrecto
generals came, too, who looked like young boys,
and members of the high courts, very wise and
dignified. After most of the guests had arrived, there
was a rigodon of honour, in which all took part.
The rigodon is the dance of the Filipinos, and of
so much importance to them that it was con
sidered essential that the Secretary and his
party should be able to join in it. Accordingly,
we had all practised it on the ship before reach
ing Manila. It is said that ex-President Taft
won much of his way into the hearts of these
island people by his skill and evident delight
in this dance, which is something like a graceful
and dignified quadrille, with much movement
and turning.
To show that traveling in an official party is
not "all play and no work," I may just note the
program carried out by the men on the day f ol-

138 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
lowing this reception. Bising at six o 'clock and
taking an early breakfast, they went on board
the commanding general's yacht and cruised
across Manila Bay to visit the new defenses on
the island of Corregidor, which rises a sheer
five hundred feet out of the water. For hours
they moved from one place to another in the
heat, inspecting huge guns and mortars and
barracks and storehouses, all hidden away so
as not to be seen from the sea, although great
gashes in the cliffs showed where the trolley
roads and the inclined planes ran. It is really
the key to our possessions in the Far East.
Thousands of men were working like ants all
over the place. It was two o'clock before the
party reached the tip-top, where they had a
stand-up luncheon at the quarters of the com
manding officer. Then they came back to the
yacht, and fairly tumbled down just wherever
they happened to be for a siesta. They were
then taken to Cavite, ten miles away, which is
one of the two naval stations. There they
landed again and visited the picturesque old
Spanish fortifications and the quarters.
A baile, or ball, was given in honour of the
Secretary by the Philippine Assenibly, at their
official building, where all the ladies of our
party wore the Filipina dress. This is ordi-

MRS. AXDERSOX IX FILIPIXA COSTUME.

 Manila as We Found It 139
narily made of pifia cloth, a cheap, gauzy ma
terial, manufactured from pineapple fiber. The
waist, called camisa, is made with winglike
sleeves and a stiff kerchief -like collar, named
panuela. The skirt may be of any material,
quite often a handsome brocade, and among the
Tagalogs a black silk open-work apron finishes
the costume. The white suits and uniforms of
the men and the bright-coloured dresses made
this ball a gay and lively scene. The band
played incessantly, and after the Secretary and
Mrs. Dickinson had stopped receiving at the
head of the stairs, there was a rigodon, which
we all danced in as stately a manner as we
could. But my most vivid recollection of the
ball is of the heat and the pink lemonade, which
poisoned a hundred people and made me deadly
ill all that night.
The Governor General gave a big dinner for
the Secretary of War at the palace one evening.
We assisted also at the opening of the new
theater — which is called the finest in the Far
East — at which Marshall Darrach gave recita
tions from Shakespeare. I must not forget the
gala performance at the new theater, too, which
was arranged by the society people of the city.
All the performers were amateurs, so we rather
dreaded the evening, which promised to be in-

140 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
terminable, but everything was so good that the
time passed quickly. The little ladies sang
quite acceptably, and played the violin and the
piano ; and a lot of tiny tots, children of the best
people, gave an amusing vaudeville that really
was exceedingly funny and was much ap
plauded. We could hardly believe that it was
all amateur.
The Government Dormitory for Girls, which
we visited, I found most interesting. There
were one hundred and fifty, eight sleeping in
each room. These girls came from different
provinces all over the Islands. As there are so
many distinct dialects, some of them could
understand one another only in English, and
no other language is allowed to be spoken. One
of the girls made a speech in English welcom
ing the Secretary and did it extremely well.
Having learned, among other things, to cook,
they gave us delicious tea and cakes and candies
on a half-open veranda among the vines and
Japanese lanterns. Some were taking the
nurses' course, which seemed to be the most
popular. These pretty girls danced for us in
their stiff, bright-coloured costumes, swaying
and waving their hands, and turning and twirl
ing in their languid but dignified manner. It
appeared to be a mixture of a Spanish and a

Manila as We Found It 141
native dance, and was altogether quite charm
ing. A morning with Mr. Worcester at the Bureau
of Science was most delightful. This bureau is
so much more than a museum of scientific speci
mens that I cannot begin to do justice to it in a
single paragraph. It was started at first as a
Bureau of Government Laboratories in charge
of the chemical and biological work of the gov
ernment, the departments of zoological and
botanical research were subsequently added,
and finally the Bureau of Ethnology and the
Bureau of Mines were incorporated with it.
Not only were all these departments coordinated
under one head, preventing overlapping and
securing economy and efficiency of administra
tion, but this work was correlated with that of
the Philippine General Hospital and the Col
lege of Medicine and Surgery. When this com
prehensive plan was formed all the scientific
work of the government was carried on in "a
hot little shack," and the scheme was commonly
referred to as "Worcester's Dream," but at
the time of our visit the dream had come true.
The departments were manned by thoroughly
trained men from the States, and the Bureau of
Science was one of the world's greatest scien
tific institutions.

142 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
The Philippine Bureau of Science "is now
dead." When the Democratic Administration
took charge it was announced that all theoretical
departments, such as ethnology, botany, orni
thology, photography and entomology ( !) were
to be "reduced or eliminated." It was after
ward made plain that all work which was consid
ered practical would be continued, but the mis
chief had been done, the men who made the insti
tution had left, and under present conditions it
is impossible to secure others who are equally
competent in their place. Our only consolation
is to be derived, as Mr. Worcester himself says,
"from contemplating the fact that pendulums
swing." Though so recently established, the museum
contained in 1910 a wonderful exhibit of the
plants and animals of the Islands. We took a
peep into the butterfly room, where we admired
some rare and lovely ones with a feathery
velvet sheen the colour of the sea. We saw also
the huge brown Atlas moth touched with coral,
like a cashmere shawl, with eyes of mother-of-
pearl on his wings. We noticed that the fe
males were larger than the males, and even
those of the same variety often differed greatly
in colour. In one case a female was big, and

Manila as We Found It 143
brown and violet in colour, while her mate was
small, and blue and yellow.
In the next room were beetles, some of which
were like the matrix of turquoise, and others
had shimmering, changeable shades of green
and bronze. There were beetles like small tur
tles, and long, horned beetles like miniature
carabaos. Afterward we visited the birds. Bright-
coloured sun birds, with long beaks, which feed
on the honey of flowers ; clever tailor birds, small
and brown, with green heads and gray breasts,
which sew leaves together with vegetable fiber
to make their nests; birds of whose nests the
Chinese make their famous soup, and the blue
kingfishers, of whose brilliant feathers these
same Chinese make jewelry ; fire-breasted birds,
too, and five-coloured birds. There were birds
that build their nest four feet or more under
the ground, and hornbills, that wall up their
wives in holes in the trees while they are hatch
ing their eggs, the males bringing them food and
dropping it through a small opening. There,
too, I saw the fairy bluebird.
Near by, we visited an orchid garden, and
passed under gates and bamboo trellises drip
ping with every kind of orchid. The Philip-

144 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
pines are the paradise of these remarkable
plants, and many are the adventures that col
lectors of them have had in the interior of these
Islands. Then we passed into the Jesuit chapel and
museum. We were greeted at the door by sev
eral black-robed priests, who smiled and bowed
and talked all at once. They escorted us first
to the museum, where there were cases of shells
— heart-shaped shells, trumpet shells, scalloped
shells big enough for a bathtub — all kinds of
shells, and the paper nautilus, which is not a
shell but an egg case. Then there were land
shells, polished red and green, Venus' flower
baskets, exquisite glass sponges, corals of all
kinds — fine branches of the red and the white —
and an enormous turtle that weighed fifteen hun
dred pounds.
In the cases at the side of the room were ani
mals of the country — flying monkeys, with suck
ing pads on their toes to help them climb the
trees, big, furry bats and flying lizards. A tiny
buffalo, which was discovered only a few years
ago up in the hills, and a small spotted deer
were in the collection. A big monkey-catching
eagle, white and brown, was here, and the paro
quet that carries leaves for her nest in her red
tail, as well as a pigeon with ruffs of green and

Manila as We Found It 145
blue about her neck, and a bald crown, which
was caused, the natives say, by flying so high
that her head hit the sky.
Numerous entertainments and receptions were
crowded into that too short visit to Manila.
July 25th had been declared a national holiday.
A musical program was given in honour of the
Secretary by five thousand Manila school chil
dren. One afternoon Mrs. Dickinson received
some of the Filipina ladies, who sang and played
on the piano quite well.
Another day the officers and ladies at Fort
McKinley entertained the party at luncheon at
the Officers' Club. Before luncheon there was
a military review in which the troops from all
over the islands participated, followed by some
good shell firing out in the chaparral, as under
war conditions, and a display of wireless work.
A special drill was given by Captain Tom An
derson — the son of General Anderson — whose
company was one of the best drilled in the army,
and went through the manual and marching with
only one order given, counting to themselves in
silence the whole seventeen hundred counts, all
in perfect unison.1
iThe American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly
deserve mention. They were among the best fighters we sent
out there.

146 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
In the Secretary of War's speech that after
noon he took occasion to say, "General Duvall,
you have not said too much in favour of the
Army. You have not overdrawn the picture,
for a steadier moving column or brighter eyed
men and a more soldierly set of men I have
never seen anywhere."
The reception by General and Mrs. Duvall
was a brilliant affair, chiefly of the army and
navy. The handsome house with its wide ve
randas stood in a garden overlooking Manila
Bay. On the Luneta there was, one evening, the
largest gathering that had assembled on that
historic plaza since the days of the "Empire,"
for the Secretary of War was expected to be
there. The people hoped that he brought with
him a proclamation of immediate independence
to be announced at that time. The Luneta had
once been at the edge of the water, but a great
space had been filled in beyond it, and buildings
were going up — a large hotel, which would
make all the difference in the world to tourist
travel in the Philippines, and a huge Army and
Navy Club — so that it was planned to remove
the Luneta farther out some day, again to the
water's edge. On this, particular evening, the
oval park was crowded with picturesque people,

 Manila as We Found It 147
almost all the men in white, the soldiers in their
trig khaki, and the women in their gaily coloured
dresses and panuelas. Bows of carriages cir
cled round and round, as the two bands played
alternately. After a time we left our automo
biles and walked in the throng. A magnificent
sunset was followed by the gorgeous tints of
the afterglow, and dusk came on and evening
fell while we watched and were watched. Soon
a thousand electric lights, that were carried in
rows around the plaza and over the kiosks of the
bands, sparkled out in the darkness. The
beauty of the scene, the animation of the crowd,
driving or walking in groups, and the refresh
ing coolness after the heat of the day, made this
a lasting memory.

CHAPTEE II
THE PHILIPPINES OP THE PAST
;0W have the Philippines come to present
such a unique combination of Spanish
and Malay civilization? Let us look into
their past. We find for the early days myths
and legends, preserved by oral tradition. Two
quaint stories told by the primitive mountain
people, which show how they believe the Islands
first came into being and how the first man and
woman entered into this world, are worth trans
cribing for their naive simplicity :
"A long time ago there was no land. There
were only the sea and the sky. A bird was
flying in the sky. It grew tired flying. It
wanted something to rest upon. The bird was
very cunning. It set the sea and sky to quarrel
ing. The sea threw water up at the sky. The
sky turned very dark and angry. Then the
angry sky showered down upon the sea all the
Islands. That is how the Islands came."
This second tale is even more childlike :
' ' A great bamboo grew on one of the Islands.
148

The Philippines of the Past 149
It was very large around, larger than any of the
others. The bird lit on the ground and began
to peck the bamboo. A voice inside said, ' Peck
harder, peck harder. ' The bird was frightened
at first, but it wanted to know what was inside.
So it pecked and pecked. Still the voice said,
'Peck harder, peck harder.' At last a great
crack split the bamboo from the bottom to the
top. Out stepped a man and a woman. The
bird was so frightened that it flew away. The
man bowed very low to the woman, for they had
lived in different joints of the bamboo and had
never seen each other before. They were the
first man and woman in the world."
These natives believe there are good and evil
spirits, and they invoke the agency of the latter
to explain the mystery of death. They say the
first death occurred when the evil spirit light
ning became angry with man and hurled a dan
gerous bolt to earth.
The first suggestion of real history is found
in the traditions that tell of Malays from the
south who came and settled on these islands.
It is said a race of small black people were
already here — the Negritos — who resembled the
African negroes, and who retired into the hills
before the invaders.
Next we hear of a Mohammedan priest who

150 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
came to the southern Philippines and gave the
people his religion. His followers have to this
day been called Moros.
It was more than two centuries before Cap
tain Cook visited Hawaii, that white men dis
covered the Philippines. Magellan, the famous
Portuguese navigator, while sailing in the serv
ice of Spain, landed on Mindanao and Cebu, and
took possession of the group in the name of the
Spanish king. Before starting from Seville on
this voyage around the world, Magellan had al
ready spent seven years in India and sailed as
far as Sumatra, so he already knew this part of
the world. This time he was in search of the
Spice Islands and of a passage from the At
lantic to the Pacific Ocean. He had touched
first at Teneriffe and then crossed the Atlantic
to Brazil, making his way along the coast of
South America. There were many hardships
and difficulties to contend with, and mutiny in
the fleet resulted in several deaths. But, as we
all know, he persevered, and on the 15th of Oc
tober, 1520, discovered the straits which were
named after him.
The Ladrones were reached after fourteen
tedious weeks, and on St. Lazarus' day, in 1521,
the Philippines were sighted and named by him
for the saint. In the early times they were

The Philippines of the Past 151
sometimes referred to by the Spaniards as the
Eastern, and later as the Western, Islands.
They were finally named the Philippines by Buy
Lopez de Villalobos, after his king, Philip the
Second. Magellan was quite unlike Captain Cook,
whose visit to Hawaii has been mentioned. He
was a nobleman and full of the religious en
thusiasm that fired the Spaniards of his day.
He was accompanied by several friars, who at
once began missionary work among the nativess
and only a week after his arrival the Cebuan
chief and his warriors were baptized into the
Christian faith. Unfortunately, Magellan took
sides with the Cebuans in their warfare against
a neighbouring tribe, and in the battle he was
killed. After his death, the same chieftain
turned on Magellan's followers, but some
escaped to their ships. Out of two hundred and
fifty men who had set sail three years before,
only eighteen, after suffering incredible hard
ships on the long journey by way of India and
the Cape of Good Hope, returned safely to
Spain. The next explorer who touched at the Islands
was the Englishman, Sir Francis Drake, of
Spanish Armada fame, who sailed in 1570 on a
voyage round the world. We also hear of an-

152 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
other Briton, William Dampier, a noted free
booter, who, in 1685, tried to cross the Isthmus
of Panama with Captain Sharp. Three times
he sailed round the world, and touched at the
northern as well as the southern Philippine
Islands. Magellan, Drake and Dampier gave the west
ern world much knowledge of the Far East, but
did not remain long enough in the Islands to
have any great or lasting influence over the
natives. The work of civilizing them was left
to Legaspi and the Spanish friars, who were
the first real settlers.
In 1565, the Philippines were occupied by an
expedition under Miguel Lopez de Legaspi,
alcalde of the City of Mexico, who was charged
to open a new route to Java and the Southern
Islands. On his return voyage he was to ex
amine the ports of the Philippines, and, if ex
pedient, to found a colony there. In any case
he was to establish trade with the Islands. The
viceroy of Mexico charged him that the friars
with the expedition were to be treated with the
utmost consideration, "since you are aware that
the chief thing sought after by His Majesty is
the increase of our holy Catholic faith and the
salvation of the souls of those infidels."
Cebu was occupied, and Manila was taken and

The Philippines of the Past 153
made the seat of government. The occupation
of the Islands was not exactly by force of arms,
for there was no fighting, although they found
the islands well populated and the people more
or less armed. The natives seemed to recog
nize and submit to a better government and re
ligion than they had ever known. The reports
of the Spaniards of the time speak of the suc
cess of small expeditions of perhaps a hundred
men, who took over whole provinces. These
soldiers were accompanied by Spanish priests,
who settled among the people, preaching Chris
tianity in the native tongues. The friars per
suaded them to give up their continual feuds
and submit to the central authority which the
friars represented.
Legaspi brought with him from Mexico four
hundred Spanish soldiers. Later eight hun
dred more arrived, and civilian Spaniards, both
married and single, sailed to the Islands as set
tlers. In 1591, according to the records of
Spanish grants, there were 667,612 natives
under Spanish rule, and twenty-seven officials
to enforce the laws and preserve order. It was
reported that in a majority of the grants there
was peace, justice and religious instruction.
There were Augustinian, Dominican and Fran
ciscan friars as well as secular clergy. These

154 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
men were not only priests but also fighters
and organizers, and did fine work for many
years, until long-continued possession of power
gradually made the orders corrupt and grasp
ing. Upon their first arrival, the Spaniards found
the people established in small villages, or
barangays, Where the chief lived surrounded
by his slaves and followers. It was considered
wise to continue this system, ruling the villages
through the local chieftain, whom the Spaniards
called cabeza de barangay. Churches were
erected, convent houses were built about them,
and the natives were urged to gather near by.
It was ordered that ' ' elementary schools should
be established, in which the Indians will be
taught not only Christian doctrine and reading
and writing but also arts and trades, so that
they may become not only good Christians but
also useful citizens."
So at the end of the sixteenth century the
Philippines were at peace. The natives were
allowed to move from one town to another, but
they were required to obtain permission, in
order to prevent them from wandering about
without religious instruction. The tendency of
the Malays is to separate into small groups, and
they have never been dwellers in large towns.

" UNDER THE BELLS.'

The Philippines of the Past 155
The Spanish priests, therefore, found a constant
effort necessary to keep them concentrated
about the churches "under the bells."
The fervour of religious reform which started
in Germany was followed by an equal fervour
within the Boman Catholic Church. The period
of Julius II and Leo X was over ; the Council of
Trent had met. Ignatius Loyola had seen his
visions and sent forth his company, and Spain
was full of priests eager to serve God with the
same stern energy which the previous genera
tion had shown in the search for lands and gold
and fabulous gems. No duty was so grave as
that of conformity to the Church, no stigma so
galling as that of heretic. To convert the
heathen was an obligation binding upon all men.
All Spanish colonies were missions ; the Philip
pines were always rather a mission than a
colony. Until the revolt of 1896, Spain never found it
necessary to hold the Islands by armed force;
her dominion there was based rather on her
conquest of the minds and souls of men. There
had been a few uprisings, however, and early in
the eighteenth century a Spanish governor and
his son were murdered by a mob. But notwith
standing occasional difficulties, in the main there
was peace until the civil service of the Philip-

156 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
pines was assimilated with that of Spain. Then
officials became dependent upon their support
ers at home, and were changed with every
change of the ministry. Some Spaniard writ
ing at the time said that with the opening of the
Suez Canal Spanish office holders descended on
the Islands like locusts.
At the end of the nineteenth century, the
Spanish army had grown to 17,859 of all ranks,
only 3,005 of whom were Spaniards, and there
was a constabulary of over 3,000 officers and
men, who were almost entirely natives. The
rule of Spain was secured by a native army.
There could have been no widespread discon
tent, or that army would not have remained true
to its allegiance, especially as its recruits were
obtained by conscription.
The chronicles remind us, however, that the
Spaniards did not have things all their own way.
In the early days, they were at first friendly
with the Chinese, and Mexico carried on a flour
ishing trade with China by way of Manila until
the pirate Li Ma Hong raided the Islands. The
Spaniards were on good terms with the Japa
nese until the latter massacred the Jesuit friars
in Japan. When the Shogun Iyeyasu expelled
the priests he sent away even those who were
caring for the lepers, and as a final insult, he

The Philippines of the Past 157
sent to Manila three junks loaded with lepers,
with a letter to the governor general of the
Philippines, in which he said that, as the Span
ish friars were so anxious to provide for the
poor and needy, he sent him a cargo of men who
were in truth sore afflicted. Only the ardent
appeals of the friars saved these unfortunates
and their contaminated vessels from being sunk
in Manila Bay. Finally the governor yielded,
and these poor creatures were landed and
housed in the leper hospital of San Lazaro,
which was then established for their reception
and which remains to-day.
The Spanish governors were also hampered
by the lack of effective support from the older
colony of Mexico, which was so much nearer
than the home land that they naturally turned
to it for aid. One of them wrote pathetically
to the King of Spain :
"And for the future . . . will your Majesty
ordain that Mexico shall furnish what pertains
to its part. For, if I ask for troops, they send
me twenty men, who die before they arrive here,
and none are born here. And if I ask for am
munition, they laugh at me and censure me, and
say that I ask impossible things. They retain
there the freight money and the duties ; and if
they should send to this state what is yours,

158 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
your Majesty would have to spend but little
from your royal patrimony."
The Portuguese were a source of anxiety to
the colonists until Portugal fell into the hands
of Spain. The Dutch, too, who were growing
powerful in the Far East, even took Formosa,
which brought them altogether too near, but
they were driven out of that island by the great
Chinese pirate Koxinga.1
From the time of Legaspi to the end of Span
ish rule there were occasional attacks upon the
Chinese residing in the archipelago, who were
never allowed to live in the Islands without ex
citing protest and dislike, based partly upon
religious, partly upon commercial grounds.
During the last one hundred years of Spanish
supremacy, the greatest danger to their power
was the presence of the Chinese. Efforts to
i Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of
the Orient at that time. He was the son of a Japanese
mother and a Chinese father, and seldom has China had a
man to compare with him in courage, enterprise and ability.
At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the highest military
commands in his country. With his courage and natural abil
ity it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself.
Being as shrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaint
ance of a Dominican friar in Amoy, whom he converted into
an ambassador and sent to Manila. Fortunately for the Span
iards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his early death, in
1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as he was
making preparations to invade the Philippines.

The Philippines of the Past 159
exclude them were never effective or long en
during, and yet it was felt that the men who
came as labourers and traders were the advance
guard of an innumerable host. In business the
Malay has never been the equal of the shrewd
Chinaman, and although the latter might be con
verted and take a Spanish name, yet it was al
ways gravely suspected that a search would find
joss sticks smoldering in front of the tutelary
deity of commerce hidden behind the image of
the Virgin in his chapel.
So the Chinaman, like the Jew in medieval
Europe, carried on his trade in constant danger
of robbery and murder. This antipathy did not,
however, extend to Filipina women, many of
whom married the foreigners. Among the
leaders in the Filipino insurrection against the
United States, Aguinaldo, two of his cabinet,
nine of his generals, and many of his more im
portant financial agents were of Chinese de
scent. In 1762 the English swooped down upon Ma
nila, but they held the capital only two years,
for, by the Treaty of Paris, the lands they had
taken were returned to Spain. It is said the
English conquest, brief as it was, brought good
results to the Islands.
Before going on to the struggle against the

160 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
friars, I wish to quote from my father 's letters
describing his experiences in the Philippines
twenty years before American occupation.
"At Sea, December 2, 1878.
"Yesterday I left Manila, where I have been
since the 6th of last month. . . . Our first days
there were spent in firing salutes and exchang
ing visits, and going through all the forms
which are customary when a government vessel
comes into a foreign port. Admiral Patterson
sent me here to settle a stabbing affray on board
the American barque Masonic, and that took up
my attention at first. In the evenings I went to
the opera, and visited the sights of the city.
On account of earthquakes, all the buildings are
but one story high. The customs, fashions, etc.,
are Spanish. Every one was polite and I found
it very pleasant ; but, as you might expect, after
a little while I grew restless. I heard that there
was some beautiful scenery in the interior, and
I resolved to go on an investigating trip and see
it. Our vice-consul, Mr. Yongs, and another
gentleman went with me.
"From Manila we went in a boat up a short
river, which had its rise in a large lake, about
twenty-five miles long, that we crossed in a
steamer. I think I never saw such quantities

 The Philippines of the Past 161
of two things as were on that lake — namely,
ducks and mosquitoes.
"From the lake we continued our journey in
two-horse vehicles, like the volantes of Havana,
and in these we went from village to village, on
our way to the mountains. We were very well
treated. The Spanish authorities at Manila
provided us with whatever we required. The
villages were clusters of thatched huts around a
church, and the religion seemed to be a curious
mixture of Boman Catholic Christianity and pa
gan superstition, as I concluded from the style
of the pictures with which the churches were
adorned. These were chiefly representations
of hell and its torments. Devils, with the tra
ditional tails and horns, and armed with pitch
forks, were turning over sinners in lakes of
burning brimstone. . . .
"We found the natives very musical; they
sang and played on a variety of instruments,
and they were rather handsome. The women
had, without exception, the longest and most
luxuriant hair I ever saw in all my travels.
You know it is a rare thing among us for a
woman to have hair that sweeps the ground, but
here the exception is the other way; nearly ev
ery woman I saw had hair between five and six
feet in length.

162 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
"I was told that back among the mountains
there existed tribes whom the Spaniards have
never been able to conquer, and no one dares to
venture among them, not even the priests. Our
road was constantly ascending, and as we ad
vanced toward the interior the scenery became
beautiful. Peaks of mountains rose all about
us; plains and valleys stretched out, covered
with tropical vegetation; picturesque villages,
clustering around their churches, were visible
here and there; and in the distance were
glimpses of the sea, sparkling and bright in the
sun. "I was told of a wonderful ravine among the
mountains that was worth seeing and I decided
to visit it, especially as it was a favourable time ;
the river, by which it had to be approached, was
then high, and its fifteen cascades, which
usually had to be climbed past, dragging the
canoe, were reduced to four. I took three na
tives with me, and we ascended successfully. I
have called it a ravine, but a gorge would be a
better term, for it is worn directly through the
mountain by a large river, and the rock rises up
on each side, as sheer and straight as if cut by
machinery. "After I had ascended a certain distance, I
stopped for a time to examine all the wild mag-

The Philippines of the Past 163
nificence about me. The rocky wall on each side
was so high that when I looked up I could see
the stars shining in that bright noonday, as if it
were night. Huge birds came flapping up the
gorge far above my head ; and yet they were far
below the top of the mountain of rock. I do
not know how many feet it rose, but I never saw
any precipice where the impression of height
was so effectually given — it seemed immense.
"Beneath us was the deep, broad stream,
looking very dark in the twilight that such a
shadow made, and I could not help feeling awe
struck. But the opening of the gorge framed
as smiling and cheerful a landscape as could
possibly be devised, to contrast with the inner
gloom. It was a wide, varied and splendid view
of the country beyond, sloping to the distant sea,
and all of it as aglow with light and colour as
sea and land could be, beneath a tropic sun.
"Descending the river on our way out, I had
a characteristic adventure, which will make me
satisfied for a time. We had passed two of the
rapids in safety, but as we approached the third,
the canoe struck on a rock or something in the
current, bow on, and swinging round, half filled
with water. The natives in the end of the canoe
nearest the rock sprang out and clung to the
vines which hung over its sides, but the other

164 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
man and I went over the fall in the half-
swamped canoe, and were wholly at the mercy
of the stream, with an unusually good prospect
of getting a good deal more of it.
"The fall once passed through, the current
drove us toward the shore, if that is what you
would call a precipice of rock, running straight
down far below the surface of the water. I suc
ceeded in grasping the vines and pulling the
canoe after me by my feet. The water was
quite close by the rock, and the other two men,
crawling down to us, hung on with me, and
bailed out the boat till it was safely afloat, and
then we went down the rest of the way without
accident." Before the middle of the last century, life in
the Philippines must have been, for Spaniards
and natives alike, one long period of siesta.
The sound of the wars and the passing of gov
ernments and kings in Europe must have seemed
to these loiterers in a summer garden like the
drone of distant bees. After that period condi
tions changed rapidly. In 1852, the Jesuits re
turned to the Philippines; in 1868, the reac
tionary Queen Isabella II fled from Spain, be
cause of the rise of republicanism ; in 1869, the
Suez Canal was opened. All these events had

 The Philippines of the Past 165
their influence, but the return of the Jesuits was
of dominating importance.
Throughout the nineteenth century the sole
idea of the Tagals was to get rid of the friars,
and for several reasons, which I will explain as
briefly as possible. The Boman Catholic clergy
are divided into regular and secular. Mem
bers of the secular clergy are subordinate to the
bishops and archbishops, through whom the de
crees of the Holy See are promulgated. The
regular clergy, monks and friars, are subordi
nate to provincials elected for comparatively
short terms of office by members of their own
order. The Jesuits form a group by themselves
but belong rather to the regular than the secular.
Over three hundred years after the conver
sion of the Filipinos, the Spanish monks and
friars considered it still unsafe to admit natives
into the hierarchy of the Catholic Church. The
secular clergy were mostly natives, the regular
clergy were Spaniards. Naturally this condi
tion of affairs in time produced friction.
To understand the case in regard to the Jesu
its, it is necessary to go back nearly a century.
In 1767, the King of Spain issued a decree ex
pelling the Jesuits from his possessions. Their
property was confiscated, their schools were
closed, and they were treated as enemies of the

166 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
state. They had been among the earliest mis
sionaries in the Philippines, and were probably
the wealthiest and most influential of all the
clergy there. Their departure left no priests
for the richest parishes in the provinces of
Cavite and Manila, which had been their sphere
of influence. The question at once arose as to
who would succeed them, and as it happened, the
Archbishop of Manila who had to answer it was
a member of the secular clergy, a Spanish priest
to be sure, but of liberal tendencies. Conse
quently, he filled the parishes with native
priests, who continued to occupy them until the
return of the Jesuits.
Now the parish priest was the most influen
tial man in the community. As native priests
used this influence to build up the prestige of
the seculars, the ecclesiastical feuds which arose
became embittered by racial antagonism.
When a royal order was received permitting
the return of the Jesuits it became at once nec
essary to find places for them in the ecclesiasti
cal government. Spain decided that the par
ishes of Cavite and Manila should be hence
forth filled by members of the order of Becol-
lets, who were to transfer their missions in
Mindanao to the Jesuits. The Archbishop pro
tested against this increase in the power of the

The Philippines of the Past 167
regular clergy, and the Governor General as
sembled his council to act upon the protest.
All the members of the council who were born
in Spain voted against the Archbishop. All
those born in the Philippines voted for him.
The regulars gained another victory over the
seculars ; the native was publicly informed that
he was not fit to administer the parishes of his
own people, and he saw himself definitely as
signed to the position of lay brother or of
curate. Whatever threads of attachment there
had been between the opposing factions broke
on the day of that decision, and every native
priest from that moment became a center of
disaffection and of the propaganda of hatred
of the friars. This was perhaps the real be
ginning of the movement which continued, now
secretly, now openly, until it broke out in actual
revolt in 1872. The Spaniards put down this
uprising of the Tagalogs with such cruelty that
they feared a later retaliation, and sought help
from the friars. This the friars gave them, in
return for added wealth and power, which was
granted, of course, at the expense of the van
quished natives.
Worcester writes in one of his earlier books,
"During the years 1890-93, while traveling in
the archipelago, I everywhere heard the mutter-

168 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
ings that go before a storm. It was the old
story: compulsory military service; taxes too
heavy to be borne, and imprisonment or depor
tation with confiscation of property for those
who could not pay them; no justice except for
those who could afford to buy it; cruel extor
tion by the friars in the more secluded districts ;
wives and daughters ruined; the marriage cer
emony too costly a luxury for the poor; the
dead refused burial without payment of a sub
stantial sum in advance ; no opportunity for ed
ucation; little encouragement for industry and
economy, since to acquire wealth meant to be
come a target for officials and friars alike ; these
and a hundred other wrongs had goaded the na
tives and half-castes until they were stung to
desperation." The dissensions in the Philippines which
ended in the rebellion of 1896-7 began with dis
agreements among the Spaniards themselves.
A progressive party arose before which the cler
ical or conservative party slowly but steadily
lost ground, and the legislation of modern Spain
was by degrees introduced into the Islands.
The country was not able to endure the taxation
which would have been necessary to raise the
revenues to carry out this legislation. Hence
laws which were passed against the advice of

The Philippines of the Past 169
the Spanish clergy in the Philippines were left
largely in their hands for execution, not be
cause they were loved or trusted, but because
they were the only Spanish functionaries who
knew the language and the people and whose
residence in the Islands was a permanent
one. If the friars had used their power wisely
and unselfishly, there would have been no trou
ble, but they used it too often simply to keep
the people down and extort money, for which
they gave little return.
By degrees the mestizos took sides. The
Chinese mestizos soon grew restive under this
priestly government, and aided the progressive
Spanish party in Manila. As time passed they
had it borne in upon them that revolution might
pay. The insurrection of 1896-7 was planned and
carried out under the auspices of a society local
to the Philippines, called the "Katipunan," the
full title of which may be translated as "Su
preme Select Association of the Sons of the
People." According to Spanish writers on the
subject, it was the outgrowth of a series of as
sociations of Freemasons formed with the ex
pressed purpose of securing reforms in the gov
ernment of the Philippines, but whose unex
pressed and ultimate object was to obtain the

170 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
independence of the archipelago. As if to ac
complish this purpose, a systematic attack was
made on the monastic orders in the Philippines,
to undermine their prestige and to destroy their
influence upon the great mass of the population.
The honorary president of the Katipunan was
Jose Bizal, whose name was used, without his per
mission, to attract the masses to the movement.
Bizal was born in 1861 not far from Manila.
He came of intelligent stock. After his early
training at the Jesuit school in Manila and the
Dominican university, Bizal went to Spain,
where he took high honors at the University of
Madrid in medicine and philosophy. Post-grad
uate work in France and Germany followed.
He was an ardent patriot, and in order to
awaken his countrymen to the need of reform,
although he was a Boman Catholic, he published
while in Germany his book called "Noli Me
Tangere," — Touch Me Not — which dealt with
the immoral life of the friars. An English
translation has been issued with the title, "The
Social Cancer." The circulation of the book
in the Islands was forbidden, but it was read by
most of the educated Filipinos. In reading it,
one is again and again struck by the author's
clear comprehension of the needs and the diffi
culties of the Filipinos, and the calm, unpreju-

JOSE RIZAL.

The Philippines of the Past 171
diced way in which their problems are discussed.
In 1891, Bizal began the practice of medicine
in Hongkong. Meanwhile, the Spanish authori
ties, in their desire to get him into their power,
worked upon his feelings by persecuting his
mother. The trick was successful, and he re
turned to Manila, where he was soon arrested,
and banished to the island of Mindanao.
The most powerful leader of the insurrec
tion was Andres Bonifacio, a passionate and
courageous man of little education. He sent an
agent to Dr. Bizal to aid him in escaping from
his place of exile and to request him to lead the
Katipunan in open revolt. Bizal refused, be
lieving that the Filipinos were not yet ready for
independence. Bonifacio resolved to proceed
without him.
Bonifacio assured his audience that when he
gave the signal the native troops would join
them. It was of great importance to the suc
cess of his plan that the army, as in 1872, was
engaged in operations against the Moros.
There were available in Manila only some three
hundred Spanish artillery, detachments amount
ing to four hundred men, including seamen, and
two thousand native soldiers. The plot was
discovered, but Bonifacio escaped from Manila,
and sent out orders for an uprising in that part

172 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
of Luzon which had been organized by the Kati
punan. Manila was attacked, but the rebels
were repulsed. Martial law was proclaimed in
eight provinces of Luzon, followed by wholesale
executions. Many of those arrested on suspi
cion "were confined in Fort Santiago, one batch
being crowded into a dungeon for which the
only ventilation was a grated opening at the top,
and one night the sergeant of the guard care
lessly spread his sleeping-mat over this, so
the next morning some fifty-five asphyxiated
corpses were hauled away."
Just before the outbreak, Bizal received per
mission to join the army in Cuba as surgeon,
but on the way there was arrested and brought
back to Manila. His fate was now sealed. The
trial by court-martial was a farce. On a De
cember day in 1896 he was led to execution.
Bizal was undoubtedly the noblest and most
unselfish of the Filipino leaders, and his exe
cution was not only a crime but a blunder on
the part of the Spanish authorities. From his
prison he issued an address to the Filipinos re
markable for its moderation and its condemna
tion of the "savage rebellion," stating that the
education of the people must precede any truly
beneficial reforms, and urging them to go back
to their homes. The Spanish officials deemed

FORT SANTIAGO.

 The Philippines of the Past 173
this not sufficiently "patriotic" to be published,
and sentenced its author to the death of a
traitor by shooting in the back. To-day he is
the national hero of the Filipinos.
The seacoast towns were under the leadership
of Emilio Aguinaldo, a young radical, who was
already a recognized leader among the local
disaffected. The Spaniards had not expected
this outbreak in Cavite. Aguinaldo had per
sonally assured the governor of the province
of his devotion to Spain, but when fighting be
gan isolated Spanish officers were killed and
their families carried into captivity. The diffi
culties of the Spaniards were increased by the
fact that the defense of Manila and Cavite until
reinforcements arrived, would be largely in the
hands of native troops, among whom the Kati
punan was known to have been at work. But
the troops of the old native regiments — the men
who for years had followed Spanish officers —
were on the whole faithful, and it was largely
due to them that Manila and Cavite were held.
The leaders in the insurrection were of that
class who called themselves ilustrados, en
lightened, a class whose blood is, in almost
every case, partly Spanish or partly Chinese.
The supremacy of the friars was passing, and
men of this class intended to be the heirs to

174 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
their domain. The idea of forming a republic
and even of adopting the titles appropriate to a
republic to designate the functionaries of a Ma
lay despotism was an afterthought.
Beinforcements arrived from Spain, and by
June 10, 1897, the insurrection was broken, and
Aguinaldo with his remaining adherents had
taken refuge at Biacnabato, some sixty miles
from Manila. He was now without a rival, for
Bonifacio had dared to attempt his life, had
been brought before a court-martial, had been
condemned to death and had disappeared.
Aguinaldo, who now called himself not only
Generalissimo of the Army of Liberation but
President of the Bevolutionary Government,
had adopted guerilla warfare, and the Spanish
commands were forced to follow an enemy who
was never dangerous to large bodies, but who
always was to small ones — an enemy who, wear
ing no uniform, upon the approach of a large
body became peaceful labourers in the fields
along the road, but were ready to pick up their
rifles or bolos and use them against a small
party or a straggler. Still, whatever they had
fought for at first, the insurgent leaders were
now fighting for their own safety.
The governor general sought in various ways
to gain the support of the country. He called

The Philippines of the Past 175
for Filipino volunteers, and, curiously enough,
they responded with enthusiasm. The rapidity
with which they were recruited was probably
largely due to the activity of the friars. This
added to the hatred of them felt by the class of
natives represented by Aguinaldo.
Between June and December, 1897, the time
was spent in an obscure bargaining, the outcome
of which was the so-called Treaty of Biacna
bato, which Primo de Bivera — the governor
general — has stated was merely a promise to
pay a money bribe to the insurgents if they
would cease a combat in which they had lost
hope of success but which they could still pro
long to the detriment of the resources and the
prestige of Spain.
The result of the bargainings was that Spain
agreed to pay eight hundred thousand Mexican
dollars for the surrender of Aguinaldo and his
principal leaders and the arms and ammunition
in their possession. An amnesty was pro
claimed. Aguinaldo and his leaders were sent
to Hongkong under escort, where they de
clared themselves loyal Spanish subjects.
Primo de Bivera returned to Spain. As he re
ceived in return for the money only about two
hundred rifles and a little ammunition, it is not
probable that he made any of the promises of

176 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
changes in the government of the archipelago
which the Filipinos have insistently stated since
then were the real objects of the agreement.
Whatever may have been the true motives
which actuated the Spanish governor general
in adopting this method of terminating a suc
cessful campaign, he succeeded in purchasing
only an armistice and not a peace. On Janu
ary 23, 1898, a Te Deum was sung in the cathe
dral of Manila to mark the reestablishment of
peace in the archipelago.
The insurgent leaders had been bought off and
their followers had surrendered their arms.
As Spanish dominion in the Philippines was
now about to close, let us stop a moment to in
quire what it had brought to the Islands. It
may have been hard and utterly unprogressive,
but it turned the tribes of Luzon and the Vi-
sayas from tribal feuds and slave-raiding ex
peditions to agriculture.
To accomplish these results required untiring
energy and a high enthusiasm among the mis
sionaries. They had lived among savages,
speaking their tongue, until they had almost
forgotten their own. Spain had ceased to be
everything to them ; their order was their coun
try. Spanish officials came and went, but the
ministers of the Church remained, and as they

The Philippines of the Past 177
grew to be the interpreters of the wants of the
people, in many cases their protectors against
spoliation, power fell into their hands. It is
rather interesting to learn that in 1619, in the
reign of Philip III, it was proposed to abandon
the Philippines on account of their useless ex
pense to Spain, but a delegation of friars from
the Islands implored him not to abandon the
twenty thousand Christians they had converted,
and the order was countermanded.
Spanish dominion left the people Christians,
whereas, if the Islands had not been occupied
by Spain, their people would in all probability
to-day be Mohammedan. The point of view of
the Spanish friars may not be ours, but when
their efforts are judged by the good rather than
the evil results, it can still be said that Spain
gave Christianity and a long term of peace to
the Philippine archipelago. The Filipinos are
the only Christian Asiatics.
But Philippine history was to take an unex
pected turn. The Spanish- American war broke
out, and a new factor appeared upon the scene
in the shape of Commodore Dewey and his fleet.
We all know the story of the battle of Manila
Bay, but we may just recall it briefly.
It was the night of April 30, 1898, that the
American Asiatic squadron, which had received

178 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
its orders at Hongkong, arrived off the Philip
pines. They took a look first into Subig Bay,
but seeing no enemy, they made their way into
Manila Bay by the Boca Grande entrance.
There were rumours of mines in the channel and
big guns in the forts, but Dewey took the chance,
and the fleet steamed in at night. The ships
formed two columns, the fighting ships all in
one line, and the auxiliary vessels about twelve
hundred yards behind. They moved at the rate
of their slowest vessel.
Black thunder clouds at times obscured even
the crescent moon that partially lighted their
course, but occasional lightning flashes gave the
bold Americans a glimpse of frowning Corregi
dor and the sentinel rock of El Fraile. The
ships were dark except for one white light at the
stern of each as a guide to the vessel next in line.
As the Olympia turned toward El Fraile her
light was seen by a Spanish sentry. A sheet of
flame from the smokestack of the McCulloch, a
revenue cutter attached to the fleet, also be
trayed its presence to the enemy at the same mo
ment. El Fraile and a battery on the south
shore of the bay at once opened fire, which was
returned by the ships to such good purpose that
the battery was silenced in three minutes.
Slowly, steadily, Dewej 's ships steamed on, and

The Philippines of the Past 179
at dawn discovered the gray Spanish vessels
lying in front of the naval arsenal at Cavite,
over on the distant shore to the right. Admiral
Montojo's flagship, the Reina Cristina, and the
Castilla and a number of smaller vessels, formed
a curved line of battle, which was protected in
a measure by the shore batteries. The Span
iards had one more ship than the Americans, but
the latter had bigger guns.
Silently the American squadron advanced
across the bay, with the Stars and Stripes flying
from every ship. At quarter past five on the
morning of May 1st, the Spanish ships fired
their first shots. When less than six thousand
yards from their line, Dewey gave the famous
order to Captain Gridley, in command of the
Olympia: "You may fire when you're ready,
Gridley." Two hours later, the Reina Cristina had been
burned, the Castilla was on fire, and all but one
of the other Spanish vessels were abandoned
and sunk. Dewey gave his men time for break
fast and a little rest, then shelled and silenced
the batteries at Cavite. Soon after noon the
Spaniards surrendered, having lost 381 men
and ten war vessels. Seven Americans were
slightly wounded, but none were killed. So
ended this famous battle.

CHAPTEE III
INSUEKECTION
?DMIEAL DEWEY took a great liking to
General Anderson, "Fighting Tom"
(L.'s cousin), the first military officer to
command the American forces in the Philip
pines. On one occasion the Admiral fired a
salute well after sundown (contrary to naval
regulations) to compliment him on his promo
tion to the rank of major general, and scared
the wits out of some of the good people ashore.
General Anderson has given me a few notes
about his experiences at that time, which are of
special interest.
"When in the latter part of April, 1898, 1 re
ceived an order relieving me from duty in
Alaska and ordering me to the Philippines, I
was engaged in rescuing a lot of people who had
been buried by an avalanche in the Chilcoot
Pass. I took my regiment at once to San Fran
cisco, and there received an order placing me
in command of the first military expedition to
the Philippines. This wras the first American
180

Insurrection 181

army that ever crossed an ocean. We were
given only two days for preparation. We were
not given a wagon, cart, ambulance, or a single
army mule, nor boats with which to land our
men. I received fifty thousand dollars in silver
and was ordered to render what assistance I
could. I had never heard of Aguinaldo at that
time, and all I knew of the Philippines was that
they were famous for hemp, earthquakes, trop
ical diseases and rebellion.
"We stopped at Honolulu on the way over,
although the Hawaiian Islands had not been
annexed. The Kanakas received us with en
thusiasm and assured us that the place was a
paradise before the coming of the missionaries
and mosquitoes. From there we went to Guam,
where we found nude natives singing 'Lucy
Long' and 'Old Dan Tucker,' songs they had
learned from American sailors.
"When we reached Cavite the last day of
June, Admiral Dewey asked me to go ashore
and call on Aguinaldo, who, he assured me, was
a native chief of great influence. Our call was
to have been entirely informal, but when we
approached the house of the Dictator we found
a barefooted band in full blare, the bass-drum
mer after the rule of the country being the
leader. The stairway leading to Aguinaldo 's

182 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
apartment was lined on either side by a strange
assortment of Filipino warriors. The Chief
himself was a small man in a very long-tailed
frock coat, and in his hand he held a collapsible
opera hat. I saw him many times afterward
and always thus provided. He asked me at
once if I could recognize his assumption. This
I could not do, so when a few days later I in
vited him to attend our first Fourth of July he
declined. He further showed his displeasure
by failing to be present at the first dinner to
which we American officers were invited. There
for the first time we met Filipina ladies. They
were bare as to their shoulders, yet in some
mysterious way their dresses remained well in
place. In dancing there was a continuous shuf
fling on the floor because their slippers only half
covered their light fantastics, rendering them
more agile than graceful.
"In returning from visiting the Tagalog
Chief we saw a headless statue of Columbus. I
asked a native to explain how Christopher had
lost his head. The reply was that they be
headed him because they did not wish to be dis
covered. "Soon after I got to Cavite, I was invited
with the officers of my staff to attend a dinner
given in my honour. At the symposium I was

Insurrection 183

asked to state the principles upon which the
American government was founded. I an
swered, ' The consent of the governed, and ma
jority rule.' Buencamino, the toastmaster, re
plied, 'We will baptize ourselves to that senti
ment,' upon which he emptied his champagne
glass on his head. The others likewise wasted
their good wine.
"When General Merritt arrived he first came
ashore at a village behind the line we had es
tablished where Aguinaldo was making his
headquarters. Bain was falling in torrents at
the time, but Aguinaldo, who must have known
of the presence of the new Governor General,
failed to ask him to take shelter in his head
quarters. Naturally General Merritt was in
dignant and directed that thereafter any neces
sary business should be conducted through me.
This placed me in a very disagreeable position.
At first I thought I could conciliate and use the
Filipinos against the Spaniards, but General
Merritt brought an order from President Mc-
Kinley directing that we should only recognize
the Filipinos as rebellious subjects of Spain.
Aguinaldo reproached me bitterly for my
change of conduct toward him, but because of
my orders I could not do otherwise, nor could I
explain the cause.

184 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
"We soon drifted into open hostility. I
found but one man who appeared to understand
the situation, and he was the much hated Arch
bishop Nozaleda. After we took Manila he
invited me to come to see him. He remarked in
the course of our conversation that when we
took the city by storm he expected to see our
soldiers kill the men and children and violate
the women. But instead he praised us for hav
ing maintained perfect order. For reply I
quoted the Latin, 'Parcere subjectis, et debel-
lare superbos.' Which prompted him to say
in Spanish to a Jesuit priest, 'Why, these peo
ple seem to be civilized.' To which the Jesuit
replied, 'Yes, we have some colleges in their
country.' "The statement that we seemed to be civilized
calls for an explanation. I found many Fili
pinos feared American rule might prove more
severe on them than the Spanish control. In a
school book that I glanced at in a Spanish school
was the enlightening statement that the Ameri
cans were a cruel people who had exterminated
the entire Indian population of North America. ' '
The battle of Manila Bay was fought and won,
as we well remember, on May Day. Through
the kind offices of the British consul the Spanish
admiral came to an understanding with Dewey.

Insurrection 185

Surgeons were sent ashore to assist in the care
of the wounded Spaniards, and sailors to act as
police. The cable was cut, and the blockade
was carried into effect at once. The foreign
population was allowed to leave for China.
German men-of-war kept arriving in the har
bour, until there were five in all. It was known
that Germany sympathized with Spain, and only
the timely arrival of some friendly English
ships, and the trenchant diplomacy of our ad
miral, prevented trouble.
All the rest of that month, and the next, and
still the next, the fleet lay at anchor, threaten
ing the city with its guns, but making no effort
to take it. The people lived in constant fear of
bombardment from the ships which they could
so plainly see from the Luneta on their evening
promenades. But they could not escape, for
Aguinaldo 's forces lay encamped behind them
in the suburbs. In fact, the refugees were seek
ing safety within the walls of the city, instead
of fleeing from it, for while they had no love
for the Spaniards, and were fellow countrymen
of the rebel chieftain, they preferred to take
their chances of bombardment rather than risk
his method of "peaceful occupation."
Of course there was no cooperation between
the Americans and the Filipinos, although both

186 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
wanted the same thing and each played some
what into the other's hand. Admiral Dewey
refused to give Aguinaldo any naval aid, and
the insurrectos on at least two occasions found
it profitable to betray our plans to the common
enemy. The delay in taking the city was caused by
Dewey's shortage of troops. He could have
taken it at any time, but could not have occupied
it. The Spanish commander made little at
tempt at defense. A formal attack on one of the
forts satisfied the demands of honour. When
the city surrendered, on August 13th, the Amer
icans were in the difficult position of guarding
thirteen thousand Spanish soldiers, of keeping
at bay some fourteen thousand plunder-mad
Filipinos, and of policing a city of two hundred
thousand people — all with some ten thousand
men! The way in which it was accomplished is in
effective contrast with European methods.
When our troops broke the line of trenches en
circling Manila they pressed quickly forward
through the residence district to the old walled'
town, which housed the governmental depart
ments of the city. Here they halted in long
lines, resting calmly on their arms until the ar
ticles of capitulation were signed. It took but

Insurrection 187

an hour or so to arrange for the disposition of
our troops among the various barracks and fox
the removal of the disarmed Spanish garrison
to the designated places of confinement. Then
command was passed along by mounted officers
for the several regiments to proceed to their
quarters for the night. In columns of four they
marched off with the easy swing and unconcern
of troops on practice march. A thin cordon of
sentinels appeared at easy hailing distance
along the principal streets, and the task was
accomplished. By noon next day they had a stability as great
as though they had been there for years. Not
a woman was molested, not a man insulted, and
the children on the street were romping with
added zest to show off before their new-found
friends. The banks felt safe to open their
vaults, and the merchants found a healthily ris
ing market. The ships blockaded and idling at
anchor in the harbour discharged their cargoes,
the customs duties being assessed according to
the Spanish tariff by bright young volunteers,
aided by interpreters. The streets were cleaned
of their accumulated filth, and the courts of law
were opened. All this was done under General
Anderson's command, and it seems to me is
much to his credit.

188 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
A daughter of General Anderson's, who was
there at the time with her father, writes : "Days
of intense anxiety followed the opening of hos
tilities. The Filipinos were pushed back more
and more, but we feared treachery within the
city. We heard that they were going to poison
our water supply, that they were going to rise
and bolo us all, that every servant had his secret
instructions. Also, that Manila was to be
burned. There proved to be something in this,
for twice fires were started and gained some
headway, and we women were banished to the
transports again."
Aguinaldo had demanded at least joint occu
pation of the city, and his full share of the loot
as a reward for services rendered. We can
imagine his disgust at being told that Ameri
cans did not loot, and that they intended to hold
the city themselves. If there had been no other
reason for refusing him, the conduct of his
troops in the suburbs would have furnished a
sufficient one, for they were utterly beyond con
trol, assaulting and plundering their own
brother Filipinos and neutral foreigners, as well
as Spaniards, and torturing their prisoners.
But this refusal, justifiable as it certainly was,
marked the real beginning of the insurrection

Insurrection 189

against American rule, though there was no im
mediate outbreak.
Aguinaldo was a mestizo school teacher when,
in 1896, he became leader of the insurrection
against Spain. The money with which Spain
hoped to purchase peace was to be paid in three
instalments, the principal condition being that
the Filipino leaders should leave the Islands.
This they did, going to Hongkong, where the
first instalment was promptly deposited in a
bank. The second instalment, to Aguinaldo 's
great disgust, was paid over to Filipinos left in
the Islands, and the last one was not paid at all.
This was just as well for him, because his fellow
insurrectionists were already demanding of him
an accounting for the funds in Hongkong, and
had him summoned to court for the purpose.
This proceeding he wisely avoided by leaving
for Europe in disguise.
He got only as far as Singapore, however,
for there — in April of '98 — he heard of the prob
ability of American interference in the Islands
and interviewed our consul. The go-between
for this interview was an unscrupulous inter
preter, whose intrigues were destined to have
far-reaching effects for us. It has been
charged that both our consul at Singapore and

190 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
the one at Hongkong committed this nation to
a policy favouring Philippine independence, but
the whole question of American pledges finally
resolves itself into a choice between the word
of an American admiral and a Chinese mestizo.
When Spain had failed to pay over to Agui
naldo the balance of the peace money, he had
promptly gone to work to organize another revo
lution from the safe harbourage of Hongkong.
His flight to Singapore had interrupted this,
but now, with the Americans so conspicuously
there to "help," it was a simple matter to put
his plans in operation.
A month after the battle of Manila Bay Agui
naldo proclaimed himself "president" (in real
ity military dictator) of the "Filipino Bepub-
lic." But this republic existed only on paper.
Dewey accurately states the condition of affairs
when he says, ' ' Our fleet had destroyed the only
government there was, and there was no other
government; there was a reign of terror
throughout the Philippines, looting, robbing,
murdering. ' ' A form of municipal election was
held, but if a candidate not favoured by the in
surgents was elected, he was at once deposed.
One candidate won his election by threatening
to kill any one who got the office in his place.
Persons "contrary minded" were not allowed

AGUINALDO S PALACE AT MALOLOS.

Insurrection 191

to vote. These happenings hardly suggest a
republican form of government, but they are
typical of conditions at that time.
Naturally the self-styled president was not
recognized by the American officials, and they
were justified, as is shown by the fact that
before the year was up Aguinaldo himself had
come to realize that he could not maintain order
among his people, and tried to resign from his
office. Meanwhile his lack of recognition by the
Americans, and his exclusion from the spoils of
war, so far as Manila was concerned, showed
him that his only hope of achieving his ambitions
lay in driving these interlopers from the Islands.
But for the time being, while awaiting a pro
pitious moment for attack, he occupied himself
and his men by conquering the Spaniards in the
outlying provinces. Since there was no co
operation among the Spanish forces, he was
quite successful. Having proclaimed the re
public with himself at the head, he felt justi
fied in maintaining, with the aid of his booty, a
truly regal state in his palace at Malolos, aping
the forms and ceremonies of the Spanish gov
ernors in Manila.
As fast as Church property, or property be
longing to Spaniards, fell into his hands, it was

192 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
confiscated and turned over to the State — if
Aguinaldo can be considered the State. His
houses and those of his generals were furnished
from Spanish possessions, all title deeds were
systematically destroyed or hidden, and admin
istrators were appointed for the property.
At the beginning of the new year (1899), he
turned his attention to the Americans, and
Manila. Because our forces seemed reluctant
to fight, the Filipinos, like the Mexicans to-day,
believed that they must be cowards and afraid
to meet them. A Mexican paper has recently
told its readers what a simple matter it would
be, if war were declared, for their troops to
cross the border and crush such slight opposi
tion as may be offered to the capture of Wash
ington. So it is no wonder that the Filipinos
felt confident of success, especially after their
victories over the Spaniards in the outlying
regions. By January, Admiral Dewey, General Ander
son and General Merritt had left the Philippine
Islands and General Otis was in command. He
announced that the government of the United
States would be extended over the islands of the
archipelago. Next day Aguinaldo retorted with
what was virtually a declaration of war. From
then on he and his advisers hastened their

Insurrection 193

preparations for the conflict. Members of the
native militia who were living in Manila under
the protection of the American garrison were
warned to stand ready to receive the signal
which should start the sack and pillage of the
city and the massacre of its inhabitants. By
the end of January there were about thirty
thousand Filipinos under arms fronting the
American lines outside the city, all keyed up for
the moment when they should be let loose to
drive the Americans into the sea. This time the
spoils of Manila should not be snatched from
them! The signal for the advance was to be a con
flagration in Manila. Ten thousand militiamen
were to rise, set fire to the city, free the Spanish
prisoners of war, arm them with arms stored
in the arsenal, and attack the Americans. They
were to be promptly aided in this last detail by
the thirty thousand Filipinos waiting outside,
who, surrounding the city, would drive back the
fourteen thousand American soldiers upon their
burning citadel and upon the two hundred thou
sand Filipinos, who would by this time have
joined their countrymen. If everything had
worked out as he had planned, Aguinaldo might
very probably have entered the city.
He chose a night early in February, at a time

194 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
when he knew the American reinforcements
which had been ordered could not yet have ar
rived. Firing began about nine o'clock in the
evening, near the San Juan bridge, and contin
ued during the night. Meanwhile, the militia
in the city tried to assemble, but the groups were
promptly fired on and dispersed. In the morn
ing the ships of Dewey's fleet opened fire from
the flanks of the American line. A little later
our troops sprang forward and swept their an
tagonists before their fierce attack. In this en
counter the Filipinos lost about eight hundred,
and the Americans two hundred and fifty.
For a week the insurgents were quite de
moralized, and no wonder, for this was not the
way they had expected the "cowardly" Ameri
cans to act. But when they saw that our men
did not follow up their advantage by pursuit,
their courage revived and they began once more
to believe those things which they wished to be
lieve. Our troops had to stay where they were
because they had not sufficient transportation
to take them anywhere else, because the en
emy within the city still needed their attention,
and because their reinforcements had not ar
rived. When these came, General Otis divided his
forces. General MacArthur began a movement

Insurrection 195

from his right against the insurgents, who con
tested every village and locality capable of de
fense, and burned every train before abandon
ing it to American hands. The insurgent
capital, Malolos, was occupied. In April, Gen
eral Lawton took Santa Cruz. The American
casualties during these operations were about
ten thousand officers and men, but the sick re
port listed fifteen per cent of the expedition,
mostly from heat prostration.
General Lawton, who went out early in 1899,
and was killed in December of the same year at
San Mateo, is believed to have been perhaps the
most able of our commanders.
Uniformly the Filipinos lost, but when their
courage waned their officers would announce
that they had won a big victory somewhere else.
In one day, they reported, we had lost twenty-
eight thousand men, in a region where in the
entire month we had lost but fifty-six. On
another occasion they announced that two thou
sand colonels had been killed. They must have
thought our troops were all from Kentucky.
All summer and into the fall this more or less
formal and regular warfare continued. But by
that time Aguinaldo had decided that while a
concentrated field army might appear more
impressive to foreigners and be better for adver-

196 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
tising purposes, it was not effective for his pur
pose, and some change must be made. The dis
content among the conservative men who still
had anything to lose was increasing, while the
labourers in the fields, the fishermen, and the
great masses of the people were growing weary
of the war and the exactions of the commanders
of their troops. The spell which Aguinaldo had
cast over Luzon was almost broken. The war
was nearly over, it seemed — in a civilized coun
try it would have been over.
To the Americans it appeared that the insur
rection had been destroyed, and that all they
now had to do was to sweep up the remnants of
the insurgent forces by a system of police ad
ministration not likely to be either difficult or
dangerous. In November, MacArthur had his
force ready to strike anything within reach, but
there seemed to be nothing within reach to
strike. He soon came to the conclusion that
there was no organized resistance left, that the
insurgent army had broken into fragments
which would soon become banditti. The dis-
bandment of the insurgent field forces, which
the American authorities took to mean the com
ing of a general submission to our rule, was fol
lowed by a long period of inactivity. This, of
course, strengthened the impression, but the

%

GENERAL LAWTON.

Insurrection 197

time was being used by the Filipinos to prepare
for a new method of warfare and to organize
for resistance by means of a general banding
of the people together in support of the gue
rillas in the field.
To obtain this necessary cooperation the
leaders announced the inflexible principle that
every native residing within the limits of the
archipelago owed active individual allegiance
to the insurgent cause. This was enforced by
severe penalties, including burial alive, which
were systematically exacted. There was little
resistance on the part of the victims, who ac
cepted the new policy with a curious combination
of loyalty, apathy, ignorance and timidity.
In this way there arose a strange system of
dual government, in many cases the town offi
cials openly serving the Americans while they
were secretly aiding the insurrection, and with
apparently equal solicitude for both. Each
town was the base for the neighbouring gue
rillas, and when a band was too hard pressed it
would dissolve and take refuge in its own com
munity. This was easy enough to accomplish,
with the aid of the people, for it took very little
to transform a Filipino soldier into a good imi
tation of a peaceful native.
Several months before the formal declara-

198 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
tion of guerilla warfare in November of 1899,
the Filipino commanders had adopted a policy
of occupying a succession of strong defensive
positions and forcing our army to a never end
ing repetition of tactical deployments. This
they did with such skill that they were for a
time successful. The native force would hover
within easy distance of the American camps,
but would avoid close conflict and temporarily
disband. This would not be regarded by them
as a calamity, but simply as a change from one
form of action to another, and even a positive
advantage. By February of 1900, General Bates had suc
ceeded in scattering the larger bodies in the
south of Luzon, and while some of the Filipino
leaders and their followers abandoned the
cause, which they saw was hopeless, others re
turned to the life of bandits, which in many
cases had probably been their profession before
the war. When their guns were gone they took
up the knife and the torch. They did not cease
to call themselves soldiers of the republic, but
they were not in reality.
By September General MacArthur, who had
succeeded General Otis in command of the
American forces in the Islands, realized that
the opposition to American control came from

Insurrection 199

the towns, and that the guerilla bands could
not exist without their support. At first he
thought that on account of the efficiency of his
troops, the natives would be actuated both by
conviction and self-interest to support him.
But four months later he saw that further pres
sure was needed to secure this. So he ordered
that all persons suspected of contraband traffic
with insurgent organizations should be arrested
and sent to Manila. In January, 1901, he
ordered the deportation to Guam of twenty-six
Filipino leaders, sympathizers, and agents, who
were to remain there until peace had been for
mally declared. Two months later, Aguinaldo
was captured by the dare-devil Funston of "the
Suicide Squad."
The effect of this measure was to alarm the
leaders, of course, who now realized that they
could be held responsible for their acts. Orders
were also issued that all men who surrendered
should be disarmed but released at once, while
those captured in the field or arrested in the
towns should be held in custody till the end of
the war. A letter was found, written by a
bandit leader, in March, saying that he was
ordered to "proceed more rapidly" with his
operations, "as Bryan ordered Emilio (Agui
naldo) to keep the war going vigorously until

200 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
April." However true that may have been, it
is certain that the encouragement which the in
surgents received from the country they were
fighting much prolonged hostilities and caused
the loss of many lives on both sides.
It is hard to realize at this distance the
lengths to which the anti-imperialists went,
or were willing to go, in those days. Governor
Pack told me of an experience he had with one
of them — a New Englander of good family and
American antecedents. Pack was on his way
out to the Islands at the time, and on arriving
at Hongkong received the tidings of McKinley's
assassination. He was surprised to see this
man, a fellow-passenger, rush up to a Filipino
with the news and shake his hand, congratulat
ing him on what had happened. The Governor,
then a young civilian, could not forget the shock
ing incident and later, when they shared the
same stateroom on the small boat for Manila,
he discovered papers which proved that his
companion intended to furnish aid and encour
agement to any natives who wished to fight
against American "tyranny." This discovery
gave Pack his appointment as one of the seven
lieutenant governors of the hill tribes. But the
other man was punished only by being refused
entrance to the Islands, It was the stupid and

Insurrection 201

foolish fashion in America then — as indeed it
still is — to call this particular form of treason
Idealism, and be lenient with it.
Our soldiers found it difficult to take seriously
the bands of half naked men, who, they knew,
had been pillaging the villages of their own
race. It was true that these bands were diffi
cult to pursue and capture, but an army which
fought only from ambush, whose detachments
fell only upon stragglers and carefully avoided
the main body of its enemy, and which showed
no regard for the sacredness of a flag of truce,
could not inspire much respect. Plunder ap
peared to be the sole excuse for its existence,
and the pompous titles assumed by its com
manders were amusing for the leaders of rob
bers. The Americans followed the retreating
bandits without hatred and without fear. But
they became weary of the eternal pursuit, and
felt a growing irritation.
The Filipinos, however, felt very differently
about their soldiers, and it is only fair to give
their side too, especially as it may throw some
light on the Mexican situation. Even the richest
and most highly educated men found nothing to
laugh at in these poor bands which were after
all composed of their own people fighting and
suffering for a cause which they could at least

202 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
understand, whether or not they sympathized
with it. They did not regard the pillaging, tor
tures, and murders to which the Filipinos sub
jected their own people as we did. They called
the robbery "collecting contributions for the
support of the war." As for the murders — in
the Orient to kill is an immemorial right of the
rulers of men. What if they did fight disguised
as peaceful country folk? They were a weak
people fighting against a strong. They were
naked and they were hungry, and they were
fighting for a cause. Their arms were often
of little use, and they made powder out of match
heads and cartridge shells out of the zinc roofs
of parish buildings, and even then they had only
ammunition enough to fire a few volleys and
then run. But men so armed had forced the
United States to send out nearly seventy thou
sand well equipped soldiers to subdue them.
To the native Filipino, as perhaps to the Mexi
can to-day, the ragged and half savage figures
of the guerillas stood for their vision of a united
race. But it was natural that our troops could not
understand this, and that they should gradually
become embittered against their antagonists.
The officers, by the necessary division of our

Insurrection 203

forces, found themselves confronted with con
ditions utterly alien to their experience. They
had to live in native houses or churches, in the
midst of four or five thousand people whose
language they did not speak, and whose thoughts
were not their thoughts. Most of them were
young men. They came from all over the
United States, and were neither monsters nor
saints, but good examples of their time and
country. When these officers learned that the dignified
Asiatics who called upon them daily, who drank
with them, who talked with them, and who held
offices under our government, were also spies
of the guerilla leaders, secretly aiding those
who were anxious to win the price set on their
heads, they were hardly pleased. When they
found that every movement of the guerillas was
reported to them just too late to be of any use,
while every movement of their own small forces
was promptly made known to the enemy, and
when they were present at the disinterment of
the twisted bodies of the men who had been
buried alive because they were loyal to us, they
decided that stricter measures were necessary.
This was a state of war. Within wide limits
their will was law. Upon their judgment hung

204 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
not merely their lives and those of their men,
but the honour of their country and their regi
ment. Perhaps in some cases they met cruelty
with cruelty, but they at least tried to be honest
and just. And the people came to realize this,
and also that they were not afraid, with the re
sult that whole communities transferred their
allegiance from their own guerilla leaders to a
single young American, not because he under
stood them or sympathized with them, but be
cause he was a man whom they could trust and
respect. i To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly "reconstructed
rebel," as this incident told by General Anderson's daughter
shows :
"While spending the day with friends who have a sugar
estate near Kalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo,
Pablo Ocampo and another ilustrado whose name I've forgot
ten. They had come over from Cavite, where Aguinaldo has
his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar machinery.
After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I
found myself next the former General at lunch. Conversation
was difficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Span
ish. I timidly asked him in desperation of something to say,
if he remembered my father. On learning that he was the
first Americano General to fight him, over fifteen years before,
he became most interested, and asked very warmly to be re
membered. When I told him my father was also retired and
settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the
real life. I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be
lured back to the hazards of political life. He is a modest,
quiet, diffident little native of the pure Filipino type. He as
sured me that his children were making good progress in
English and were at school working hard."

Insurrection 205

It was July of 1902, four years after our tak
ing of Manila, before the Islands could be offi
cially declared pacified. Let us hope that the
lessons which we learned then may not be for
gotten in our dealings with Mexico.1

CHAPTEE IV
FOLLOWING THE FLAG
They taught Filipinos the right way to work,
And they taught as if teaching were fun;
They taught them to spell and to build themselves roads,
And the best way to handle a gun.
Were their salaries so big that the task was worth while?
Did they save a centavo of pay1?
Have the average men an account with the bank?
Never a cent — not they.
So we haven't a job and we haven't a cent,
And nobody cares a damn;
But we've done our work and we've done it well,
To the glory of Uncle Sam,
And we've seen a lot, and we've lived a lot
In these islands over the sea —
Would we change with our brothers grown rich at home ?
Praise be to God — not we.
From "The Swan Song," in the Manila Bulletin.
>T is, strangely enough, to the influence of
that arch anti-imperialist, William Jen
nings Bryan, that we owe the ratification of
the Treaty of Paris, which not only ended the
war with Spain but expressly provided for the
purchase of the Philippine Islands. The Demo
crats were opposed to the treaty and were
206

 Following the Flag  207
powerful enough in the Senate to have held it"
up, had not Bryan used his authority to secure
the two-thirds vote needed for its ratification.
It is amusing to note that a year later, after
enabling us to acquire the islands, he used all
his power to prevent our keeping them. He
was at this time in need of a popular plank in
his third presidential platform, and the sorrows
of the Filipinos suited his purpose admirably.
Soon after the Treaty of Paris, and long be
fore the end of the insurrection, McKinley ap
pointed a commission of experts to go out to the
Islands and report to him on conditions there.
They found a country whose civilization was, to
put it hopefully, at a standstill. It was too big
a problem to be straightened out by a few am
bitious Filipinos. The Commission returned to
America convinced of the necessity of our occu
pation. Congress soon passed a special organic act
for the organization of a civil government in
the Islands, to succeed the military rule then
in force. In 1900, President McKinley ap
pointed the second Commission, headed by Mr.
Taft, which was instructed to assume control of
the Islands, gradually relieving the army
wherever conditions allowed of their doing so.
This Commission had five members, three of

208 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
them lawyers (two of whom had been on the
bench), and two professors. Its functions
were at first legislative and judicial, but in 1901,
when the president of the Commission, Mr. Taft,
became Governor General of the Islands, the
other members were given the portfolios of the
different departments and executive power in
the pacified parts of the Islands. Dean C.
Worcester, a member of the earlier Commission
and already an authority on the Philippines,
became the first Minister of the Interior ; Luke
E. Wright, the Vice Governor, had the Depart
ment of Commerce and Police ; H. C. Ide, former
Chief Justice of Samoa, had charge of Finance
and Justice, while Professor Moses was put at
the head of Public Instruction. Governor Taft
became really the "Father of the Philippines,"
for when he left the Islands in 1904 to become
Secretary of War he had even higher authority
over them than he had had as governor, while
still later, as President of the United States, he
was able to see that the same high standard of
appointments was maintained.1
i After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Eome to arrange
the friar land question, he received a remarkable ovation
upon his return to the Philippines. When he was appointed
Secretary of War, Manila was flooded with posters bearing
the words, in various languages, "We want Taft," and such
a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to

 Following the Flag  209
McKinley charged this Commission that their
work was "not to subjugate, but to emanci
pate." We made many mistakes, for we were
new to the business and dealing with a strange
people, but until very lately even the selfishness
which is supposed to be inherent in party poli
tics has been absent in our dealings with this
people, whom we considered our sacred charge.
No one ever asked an American official in the
Islands what his politics were. Even the gov
ernorship itself was out of the reach of the
spoilsman. Of the five governors who were ap
pointed by the Eepublican administrations, only
one besides the first governor belonged to the
dominant party, and he was in office but a few
months. Since the Taft Commission first organized,
several changes have taken place. Filipino
members have been added, and it has acquired
the character of an upper house, rather than a
legislature. The work of a lower house is done
by the Assembly, made up of eighty-one mem
bers chosen by the people of the Christian tribes.
They have no authority over the Moro and other
non-Christian tribes, which are legislated for
Washington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment. It
was not until some time later that it was renewed and Mr.
Taft left the Philippines to take his seat in the Cabinet at
Washington.

210 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
by the Commission directly. To-day the Fili
pinos control their municipal and county gov
ernments, but their finances are kept under
supervision. The problems which the Commissioners had
to solve were many and varied. Trade was at
a standstill. During the last normal year under
Spain the exports from the Islands had
amounted to about sixteen million dollars. By
1912 they had more than trebled. There was
also a currency problem. Coins from every
where — Mexico, China, America, India — were
in common circulation, with almost daily fluc
tuations in value. The Islands now have their
own money on a gold basis. Then, close on
the heels of the insurrection, came a famine.
Locusts swept over the land and destroyed what
little grain the war had left. The natives in
some parts of the archipelago ate the locusts,
however, and liked them, making the work of
the officials more difficult. Grain shipped from
America decayed in the storehouses before it
could be distributed, and, as if that were not
enough, carabaos died by the thousand from
rinderpest. But the most difficult of all was the problem
of the friar lands. Thousands of acres of valu
able land had been acquired during Spanish rule

 Following the Flag  211
by the different orders of monks, and held by
them with great profit. One of the chief causes
of Aguinaldo 's rebellion was the exactions of
these wealthy churchmen, which galled a patient
people into final revolt, and during the ascend
ancy of the insurgent government resulted in
the confiscation of Church property and the
flight of the friars. These men took refuge in
Manila, and petitioned the new government for
a settlement of their claims. Their legal rights
were not to be disputed, but to return them to
their property and protect them there would
have brought on us the increased enmity of a
people whose friendship we were trying to win.
The friends of the friars were no friends of the
people. It was decided to have the Philippine
Government buy these lands from the Church,
which was accordingly arranged. Even this
was not a popular solution, but seems to have
been the best that could be done under the cir
cumstances. One-third of these lands are still
vacant. Boad building was one of the most baffling of
the problems. The people had no appreciation
of the necessity for good roads, and would not
pay for them nor help keep them in repair when
they were built. For years the Commission
toiled at the seemingly hopeless task, and it was

212 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
not until Governor Forbes went out there from
Boston that anything definite was accomplished.
His native city should be very proud of his
brilliantly successful administration, the proofs
of which met us at every turn during our stay
in the archipelago, and convinced us of the fatal
mistake it is to allow such a position as Gover
nor of the Philippines to become the prize of
politicians. To the native mind his name
became inseparably connected with roads.
Caminero means a road man, and Cameron
Forbes is of course known to the Filipino as
' ' Caminero Forbays. ' ' He had been a commis
sioner five years when made governor general,
which office he held for four more. When Mr.
Wilson became president, Governor Forbes was
advised not to tender his resignation, for it was
believed the new administration would wish to
keep the Islands clear of the spoil system.
Suddenly out of a clear sky, the Governor
General received this cablegram from the In
sular Bureau :
"Harrison confirmed August 21st. The
President desires him to sail September 10th.
Will it be convenient to have your resignation
accepted September 1st. Harrison to accept
and take the oath of office September 2nd. The
President desires to meet your convenience.

 Following the Flag  213
Should Harrison take linen, silver, glass, china
and automobiles? What else would you sug
gest? Wife and children will accompany him.
Please engage for him servants you leave."
Worst of all, it was given out to the papers
before the Governor received it, so that certain
anti- American sheets in Manila had the pleasure
of flaunting the news on their front pages for
him to read. Surely some more considerate
and courteous method of retiring a fine ad
ministrator might have been devised than this
abrupt and rude dismissal, and it would seem
that petty household matters might have been
kept separate.
Secretary Worcester, also a native of New
England, who is the greatest living authority
on the Islands, and whose achievements with
the wild, non-Christian tribes had been mar
velous — to say nothing of his other excellent
work — had also of course to resign. Forbes,
by the way, is not a Eepublican, but neither is
he a Democrat, and Independents are not po
litically useful.
The work of the administration immediately
preceding that of Governor Harrison is worth
at least a partial summary. Besides building
roads, establishing a good health resort at
Baguio, systematizing the work of the govern-

214 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
ment, reducing the number of bureaus, cutting
down expenses and eliminating duplication of
work, and numerous other public services, Gov
ernor Forbes succeeded in accomplishing the
following :
The reorganization of the merchant marine.
The construction of aids to navigation —
buoys, lighthouses and beacons, wharves and
harbours. The removal of restrictions from shipping.
The establishment of a policy for the exclusive
use of permanent materials in construction,
practically all the construction in the Islands
being done of reinforced concrete and selected
woods. The passage of a law providing for proper
development of irrigation, laying aside an an
nual sum for that purpose.
The establishment of a cadastral law for
registering law titles. "Under this system it
was possible to get land titles settled, one of the
most difficult and important problems confront
ing any government and one bearing directly
on the welfare of the people in various ways.
"A general system was adopted of loaning
to provinces and municipalities to encourage
them in the construction of public works, par
ticularly those of a revenue-bearing nature;

FIRST PHILIPPINE ASSEMBLY.

 Following the Flag  215
most especially markets, which improved the
sanitary condition of the food supply and
proved both popular with the people and profit
able for the municipalities; these markets
usually paid for themselves in five years from
the increased revenues.
"The Governor's influence was used through
out to make the instruction in the schools prac
tical in its nature ; children were taught to make
things that would prove to be salable and which
would give them a living. The dignity of la
bour was emphasized. Encouragement was
given to foster the construction of railroads.
' ' The establishment of a postal savings bank
encouraged the children to invest. Prizes were
given for that child or school which showed the
best record." (Governor Forbes took an espe
cial interest in the latter.)
The first general election was held in the
Islands on the third of July, 1907, to choose
delegates for the Assembly. Before that the
Philippine Commission had been the sole legis
lative body. The delegates were chosen from
the thirty-five Christian provinces. At that
time only a minute percentage of the population,
even among the Filipinos, was qualified to meet
the simple conditions which would enable them
to vote, and to-day the percentage is far from

216 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
large. The electorate consists mainly of two
classes, the ilustrados, or educated natives and
mestizos,1 and the taos, or peasants. The latter
are not only ignorant but indifferent, with no
vision beyond what their eyes can see, and no
interest in who governs them, so long as crops
are good and taxes low. One of the tasks of
our representatives is to educate and awaken
these people to responsible citizenship. It is a
task still far from accomplishment.
It must be admitted that the work of the
Assembly to-day, after eight years of fair trial,
does not encourage Filipinization of the service.
It is fortunate — at times — that the two legis
lative bodies have equal power not only to
initiate legislation but to block the passage of
each other 's bills. In this way the Commission
has been able to hold up some of the freak legis
lation sent up to it by the lower body. The
Manila Times has published a list of the laws
which were wanted by the Filipino assembly
men recently. They spent the valuable time of
the entire first session talking them over and
the Commission refused to concur. One was
to increase their own salaries, of course. An-
1 It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class
in the Philippines. There are about seventy-five thousand
Spanish mestizos and half a million Chinese mestizos.

 Following the Flag  217
other was to erect monuments to all the ilus-
trados who had cried "Bajo los Americanos"
most loudly. Others wanted to fly the Philip
pine flag above the American on all masts, to
make a legal holiday of the birthday of Bizal 's
grandmother, and to free all prisoners, no mat
ter what their crimes.
As may be imagined, a body of men which can
pass such bills is quite capable of blocking the
sane legislation which comes to them for ap
proval, and unfortunately they have the power
to do this. The way in which the slavery ques
tion was handled illustrates their methods.
Slavery was known to exist in the Islands,
and to take two forms, — actual slavery, where
one person was sold by another, and a sort of
semi-slavery, or peonage, where a man sold his
services for debt.
The peon was given his keep, but the interest
on his debt was added faster than he could earn.
He was really a slave, except that he had sold
himself rather than been sold by another. But
his debts might be bought and sold, so that it
amounted to the same thing in the end. Inter
est was sometimes as high as ten per cent a
month, while fifty cents a month was allowed
for his services. Worcester in his book tells
of a man who borrowed $1.25, which he and his

218 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
wife and children worked several years in the
effort to repay; but by that time the amount
had become $37.50 !
Spain had nominally abolished slavery long
before, but it had continued in force in both the
Christian and non-Christian provinces. The
legislators themselves held peons. The law of
Congress creating the Philippine Government
prohibited slavery, but there are no penalties
attached, so it could not be enforced.
The Filipinos denied that slavery existed in
the Islands. Worcester made a careful investi
gation, and an exhaustive report on both slavery
and peonage. All but a few copies of this re
port were burned by a Filipino official. It was
a subject which neither the Filipino politician
nor their self-styled friends the anti-imperial
ists wished to see discussed in print. The
Manila papers had been absolutely silent on
the subject, and even the anti-slavery legisla
tion which was finally forced through, after
having been tabled again and again without so
much as the briefest formality of discussion,
passed unnoticed. It Avas a sore subject, and
the Filipino method of treating a sore subject
is not to heal it, but to refrain from discus
sing it.
There is no question but we have given the

 Following the Flag  219
Filipinos too much power for their own good.
They now, under the Democratic Administra
tion, have five members in the Commission, to
America 's four. They have to-day much power
— only colonies such as Canada and Australia
have more, while Egypt has been given less in a
generation than the Filipinos have received in
ten years.
The present governor, Francis Burton Har
rison, has been severely criticized. His party
was pledged to a rapid Filipinization which has
proved disastrous, for it was devised by men
wholly ignorant of the situation. The destruc
tion of the wonderful civil service system so
carefully built up in the early days as an object
lesson to Spanish-bred politicians, is only one
of many changes which have been brought about.
We have certainly lost prestige in the Islands
under the Democratic Administration. Filipi
nos no longer remove their hats during the
playing of the Star Spangled Banner on the Lu
neta, so Governor Harrison finally tried to dis
continue the playing of the national anthem.
The American community would not stand this,
however, so it was resumed. In many other
ways the Filipinos have become "cocky. ' ' This
of course does not apply to the tao, who plods
along regardless of politics.

220 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
A friend wrote me recently, "I don't think I
could give you a more accurate idea of what
most Americans and British, and even intelli
gent natives, think of this Democratic admin
istration than to repeat a conversation I over
heard in the Fort McKinley cars one morning
between two coloured American soldiers. They
began by laughing at Harrison's 'give them
what they want' speech, and speaking of the
Filipinos as 'spoiled children.' 'Well,' said
one dusky brave, 'we have one more year of
this rotten administration, then, thank Gawd,
we'll have a white man's government !' "
Professor Thomas Lindsey Blayney writes
in one of the magazines: "I talked with
business men, native and foreign educators,
clergymen, army and navy officers, editors
American and British, and many Filipinos of
undoubted patriotism and intelligence, and
I do not hesitate to assure you that the de
moralizing tendency of the policies of the pres
ent American administration in the Islands is
deserving of the widest publicity." The sit
uation, he says, "is bidding fair to become a
national disgrace if we allow politics and
sentiment to take -the place of reason and jus
tice." He goes on to say, "There is no phe
nomenon of our national life more passing

 Following the Flag  221
strange than that which induces many of our
good people to accept the statements of paid
emissaries of the Filipino junto, or some of our
new and inexperienced officials at Manila, rather
than those of our fellow countrymen of long
administrative experience in the Islands. . . .
The loss of men like Governor Forbes, Mr.
Worcester, Dr. Heiser, and others, is looked
upon as a distinct setback in the development of
better and more stable institutions in the entire
Orient in the interest of humanity as a whole. ' '
All of which only bears out what Lord Cromer
told Mr. Forbes — "If your personnel employed
in the administration of dependencies at a dis
tance becomes subject to change with changing
political parties, you are doomed to failure in
your effort to govern countries overseas."
There has recently been a great financial de
pression in the Islands, due partly to hoarding
against threatened independence, and partly to
the difficulty the new Filipino officials of the
Bureau of Internal Bevenue find in collecting the
usual amount. A slump in real estate followed
quickly upon the news that we might shortly
leave the Islands. Binderpest, the cattle plague
which had worked such havoc and which had
finally been conquered after tremendous ex
penditure of money and energy, broke out again

222 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
immediately upon the substitution of Filipinos
for white men in the service. Some time the
good people at home will learn that giving a
child candy because it cries for candy is not al
ways the best thing for the child. The Filipinos
are in many ways children, delightful ones, with
charming manners, but needing a firm and even
rule till they come of age and take over their own
affairs. Most Filipinos of intelligence realize
this. In fact, they have of late been rushing in
petitions signed by their best and most influen
tial citizens urging the retention of the Islands
in their present standing.
What the Filipino wishes for himself depends
upon the man. Only one in ten, among the
civilized tribes, knows anything about the dis
cussion of independence. The taos would like
independence if they believe it to be what their
politicians have told them — freedom to do as
they please, and exemption from taxes. Other
wise they are not interested.
When the Jones bill was being discussed a
Moro elevator boy at the War Department in
Washington was asked, "If the Filipinos are
given their independence, how will you feel?"
"I am an American now," he answered, "but
if that happen — I go back, and with the Moros
fight the Filipinos ! ' '

Following the Flag 223
Most people fail to realize that the Islands
are no financial burden to this country. They
are, and have always been, wholly self-support
ing. Their revenues pay their bills, and their
taxes, incidentally, are the lowest in the civilized
world. We keep soldiers there but only the
cost of their transportation is extra.
Our rule in the Philippines has been the
greatest of all paradoxes, a benevolent des
potism working ardently for its own destruc
tion. This is very unusual, and rather fine.
We ought to be proud of what we have done, and
very anxious to see the work well finished.
Good men have given their lives for it, and few
of those who lived have come out after years of
thankless toil in a tropical land, with as much as
they had when they went into the service. We
owe it to them and to our helpless wards, as well
as to our national honour, to see the thing
through.

CHAPTER V
HEALING A NATION
HE sanitary conditions which existed in
. the Islands twenty odd years ago would
seem to us appalling, but perhaps they
were no worse than those of some other tropical
countries at that time. Even the most progres
sive colonizers, like the English, had given up
trying radical reforms, contenting themselves
with making passably healthful conditions, espe
cially for the European part of the towns. The
combination of climate and native inertia
seemed to them one which it was difficult and al
most hopeless to combat. So it remained for
us to prove that the thing could be done — that a
tropical country could be made sanitary and
hygienic for all its inhabitants, whether they
were white or brown or yellow, and whether they
wanted it made so or not. If we had done noth
ing else for our restless dependency, that
achievement would be a sufficient crown of glory.
Manila was then, as it still is, the most highly
civilized spot in the Islands. As I have said,
224

A Carabao

Healing a Nation 225
much of the walled city was built of stone and
plaster, but many of the natives in the suburbs
lived in one-room houses made of wood and
raised on stilts. No provision whatever was
made for drainage or for the removal of gar
bage. Each house was a law unto itself and
very often an offense unto its neighbours.
A large part of the city drained, directly or
indirectly, into the Pasig Eiver. Here, also,
the carabao, which is not a fastidious animal,
went for his mud baths, and the women washed
their clothes.* This river furnished drinking
water for all who lived near enough to share
the privilege. It was said to have a flavour like
the Ganges, which they sorely missed later on
when a purer supply was substituted.
The medieval wall, which allowed for many
damp, unhealthy corners, interfered with munic
ipal ventilation. No cleansing winds can sweep
through a city whose every street ends in a high
wall. Outside was a stagnant moat which made
a convenient breeding place for the industrious
mosquito. The local market used to be a community
dwelling for all the vendors, who lived there,
reveling in their filth. Their children were born
there, also their dogs, pigs, cats, and chickens.
It was so vile smelling that no American dared

226 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
go into it. Never being cleaned, it was the cen
ter from which disease was spread to the city.
These markets were the first places to be
cleaned by the Americans. The first step was
always to burn up the entire shed, and then build
an iron and concrete structure, which could be
washed down every night with a hose. Only
the night watchman was allowed to live there.
This is only typical of changes made in every
department, from market to school, from custom
house to palace. To tell a long story very
shortly, gaps have been opened in the city walls
to let in the air, the moat has been filled in with
soil dredged from the bay to make a field for
sports, nearby marshes have been reclaimed and
old wells filled up, while a sewerage system and
a method of collecting refuse have of course been
established. The new water system has cut the
death rate from water-borne diseases in half.
To stop an epidemic whole districts of huts
which could not be fumigated were burned and
others were sprayed with strong disinfectants
by fire engines. Slowly the people are being
taught the rules of hygiene. The new and up-
to-date medical school is turning out very good
doctors, and the school of nursing, most excel
lent nurses, who are gentle, cheerful and dainty.
The modern hospitals were at first regarded

Healing a Nation 227
with suspicion by the natives, who went with
the greatest reluctance for treatment. But to
day the difficulty is to keep them out. A tooth
ache is excuse enough for a week's sojourn with
free board. The native doctor often is a skilful
grafter, and has to be watched, otherwise he may
pass in all his poor relations, more to give them
food and rest than for illness. A friend was
much annoyed while sick in a Manila hospital by
some Filipina girls in pink and lilac hospital
gowns who were romping through the corridors.
Her nurse explained that they were passed in by
the native doctor. One of these physicians had
every bed in his ward filled with patients who
were not ill but just enjoying themselves.
Some of these doctors abuse their authority
in other ways. One of them, it was discovered,
used to go to San Lazaro, the hospital for con
tagious diseases, and take friends who were
detained there with leprosy to ride in public
vehicles. But aside from occasional abuses by natives,
the work which has been done for the public
health in Manila is an example of what has
been accomplished elsewhere. In many of the
provincial towns the introduction of artesian
wells has brought the death rate tumbling down
to half its former size. The work was carried

228 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
on under disadvantages at first, for it was the
butt of much ridicule and abuse — the former
from abroad, the latter from the native press.
Medical authorities in other parts of the Far
East laughed at our efforts to create better con
ditions for the Filipinos, and told us that
Orientals were incapable of sanitary reforms.
Before long, these same men were seeking to
learn by what magic we had accomplished what
they had hardly dared even attempt, and were
sending delegates to Manila to study our
methods.1 When Americans went there they found the
Filipinos a race of semi-invalids. Those who
had managed to survive the various scourges
which were constantly sweeping the Islands
were often infected with hookworm or similar
parasites which sapped their vitality. Many of
them were tubercular, and most of them were
under-fed. The laziness which made several
Filipino workmen equal to one American was
much of it due to actual physical weakness. As
a people, they are showing a marked improve
ment in energy and activity. It was from
changes of this sort that the would-be benevolent
anti-imperialists laboured to save them.
1 Any one who is inclined to regret American rule ir the
Islands is cordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean
Worcester's book, "The Philippines, Past and Present."

Healing a Nation 229
Of course, a great deal remains for us to do.
Half the babies still die before they are a year
old. Only a beginning has been made in stamp
ing out tuberculosis. The people have not yet
been educated out of that fatalism which makes
them prefer acceptance of evil to fighting it.
But as fast as they learn English they come
under our educative influence more and more.
Dr. Eichard P. Strong, whom we knew when
we were in the Islands and who is now at the
Harvard Medical School lecturing on tropical
diseases, has done many notable things in vari
ous parts of the world. We all know about his
wonderful work in the northern part of China,
when the pneumonic plague * was raging there
a few years ago, and still later his heroism
among the typhus-stricken soldiers of Serbia.
But we do not all know that, among other things,
he has discovered a cure for a dreadful skin
disease called yaws, which has been prevalent
in the Philippines. A doctor in Bontoe cured a
case with a single injection of salvarsan. The
i The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known
that it may be interesting to mention it here. The disease,
It is said, is carried by marmots. It had not broken out
since the fourteenth century, because Manchu hunters had
for generations been taught not to kill marmots for this
very reason. But in late years, with the great demand for
furs, new hunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased
marmots and so caused an epidemic.

230 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
"case" was so delighted that he escaped from
the hospital before a second injection could be
given him, rushed home to his native village,
and returned a day or so later with a dozen or
more of his neighbours who were suffering from
the same trouble.
We were fortunate in traveling through the
Islands with Dr. Heiser, who had entire control
of the health conditions there for many years —
in fact, until the Democratic administration.
To him is largely due the practical disappear
ance of smallpox from the Philippines. When
the Americans took over the country there were
sometimes over fifty thousand deaths a year
from this one disease. The change is the direct
result of the ten million vaccinations which were
performed by American officials. An effort
was made to entrust the vaccinating to Filipino
officials, but epidemics kept breaking out, and it
was discovered that their work was being done
chiefly on paper.
In a recent letter a friend writes, "The other
day one of our servants, Crispin, was ill. I
tried to get him to go to the hospital, but he
insisted he was not sick. I did not enjoy having
him wait on the table, for I thought he had
measles. So I took him to the hospital myself
and told him to do what the doctor said. When

Healing a Nation 231
I returned home a telephone call summoned us
to the hospital to be vaccinated at once, for Cris
pin had the smallpox! They sent him to San
Lazaro, where he had a good time, and came
home smiling, while we spent a miserable ten
days waiting to see what was going to happen
to us. The native saindados came promptly to
disinfect, but all they did was to put a bucket of
something in the center of the room. I soon
saw that they were not going to be thorough, so
after ten minutes, just as they were going away,
I called them back and telephoned to the board
of health, asking if no American sanitary officer
was coming. They said no, that Filipinos had
been put in all the white men's places. So I
went to work myself, burning bedding, clothes
and hangings, and opening every trunk and
closet. It was a revelation to those two little
natives, who thought they had done enough
before." Apparently the natives had the same aversion
to the preventive method of vaccination that
some of our own countryfolk have, for Dr.
Heiser writes of the early work in the field:
"Formerly . . . the lives of the vaccinators
were seriously threatened by persons who re
fused to be vaccinated. However, after much
persuasion, a considerable number of the inhab-

232 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
itants were vaccinated. Shortly afterwards
smallpox was introduced and the death rate
among the unvaccinated became alarming; the
people themselves then noted that in spite of
the fact that the vaccinated persons frequently
came in constant contact with the disease they
did not contract it, while the unvaccinated died
in large numbers. This led to urgent request
being made for vaccination and the vaccinators
who previously found their lives in constant
danger were welcomed."
But perhaps Dr. Heiser 's greatest work has
been done in freeing the Islands of the worst-
feared disease of all times and nations — leprosy.
I was walking along the street with him one day
when he noticed the swollen ear lobes of a man
near by. It was one of the first symptoms of
leprosy. He stopped and spoke to the man and
walked with him to the hospital. The disease is
not really so much to be feared as people think,
for it is seldom inherited and is not easily con
tagious. We had planned to go to Culion, the beautiful
island where thousands of lepers have been
taken to live or to die, and where they have
every care and comfort that science and un
selfish devotion can give them. Unfortunately
for us, the Secretary of War was obliged to cut

Healing a Nation 233
the trip short, owing to official business in
Manila, so we did not go there. We heard so
much about the place that this was a real dis
appointment. The island is a day's sail from Manila. It is
well forested, and has hills and fertile valleys
and a fine harbour. The more important build
ings of the town wliich the authorities knew
would be needed by the thousands of lepers then
at large, were built from the foundations en
tirely of concrete, for sanitary reasons and
economy. Besides hundreds of houses, one
finds there to-day a theater, a town hall, a school,
dining halls, hospitals, stores, docks and ware
houses. Water, lighting and sewerage systems
were also constructed, and a separate settlement
was built for the non-leprous employees.
Culion is really a leper 's heaven. The people
have perfect freedom, and live normal lives,
farming or fishing when they are able, carrying
on their own government, having their own
police force, playing in the band if they are
musical, giving theatrical performances. They
have social distinctions, too — those better born
take the place denied them in the outer world
because of their affliction. Here they are again
Somebody. When Americans took possession of the Is-

234 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
lands there were six thousand lepers at large.
Two things evidently had to be done — first, pre
vent a further spread of the disease ; and second,
cure those who already had it, if this were pos
sible. Segregation of all known cases, as fast as
accommodations could be provided for them,
was the immediate necessity. The colony at
Culion was opened in 1906 with five hundred
patients. These went reluctantly to their new
abode, but once settled there, found it so much to
their liking that they wrote home enthusiasti
cally, and after that the authorities had no diffi
culty in persuading others to go. Indeed, the
plight of these poor outcasts had been pitiful
enough. They were so neglected that in one of
the larger cities they had been known to go
into the markets and handle the produce, as a
protest against their treatment.
More than eight thousand have been trans
ferred to Culion in all, and to-day every known
leper in the Philippines is there. New cases are
still occasionally found, but even the worst prov
inces are now practically free from the historic
scourge. It was that remarkable man, Dr.
Heiser, who not only organized and carried out
this great undertaking, but who himself saw to
the smallest details. Many times he is known

Healing a Nation 235
to have carried the loathsome patients in hia
own arms.
The second problem, that of finding a cure,
was not so easily solved. But it has been found,
and our nation had the credit of finding it —
"the first definite cure ever established," Dr.
Heiser says. Two methods were tried out very
carefully, both with some success. The first
was the x-ray, which brought a marked im
provement in most of the cases where it was
used, and an apparent cure in one case. The
other method was the use of chaulmoogra oil.
This remedy had been known and used in the
Far East for some time, but it could rarely be
given long enough to produce much effect, be
cause it was so unpleasant to swallow. Our
doctors, however, devised ways of injecting it,
after mixing it with resorcin and camphorated
oil, so that there were no ill effects. Already
several cures have resulted.
Ten years ago there were forty thousand
users of opium in the Islands. In five years
that number was reduced ninety-five per cent,
and most of those still addicted to the drug are
Chinese. In the last few years, moreover,
cholera and bubonic plague have been practically
wiped out, but, of course, a few other tropical
diseases still exist.

236 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
The Philippine Assembly recently conceived
the brilhant idea of cutting down expenses by
halving the health appropriation. Dr. Heiser
got permission to speak before them, but instead
of talking a few minutes, as they expected, he
spoke for three days. He told them that if
they did not give him the money he needed for
the work, he would be forced to economize by
setting free the criminally insane, who, he prom
ised, should be given tags stating that they had
been set free by order of the Assembly. Also,
he said, he would have to send back many of
the lepers to their friends. It proved to be the
way to deal with the child-like legislators, who
in the end gave him what he wanted. Since
that, however, he has resigned, and his loss will
be sadly felt. Indeed, there has already been
an outbreak of cholera since he left.
Begenerative work among the Filipinos has
by no means been confined to their bodies, how
ever, for besides the educational advance that
has been made in their schools, which I have
mentioned elsewhere, their prisons have become
sources of light instead of darkness. It is true
that penology in the Philippines has gone ahead
with great strides.
In Bontoe, for instance, there is a prison
which the commissioner in charge of the prov-

Healing a Nation 237
ince proudly called his "university." Its in
mates are men of the mountains. In the old
days they would have been sent to Bilibid prison
in Manila, where few of them lived over two
years. A longer term meant practically a death
sentence. This provincial jail is situated in the
high and healthy capital of the province, and is
kept clean and sanitary by the prisoners them
selves. The men are well fed and cared for,
and they are taught trades, and made to work at
them, too, so that they learn industry along with
technical skill.
Bilibid prison is a huge institution. It oc
cupies several acres of land in the heart of the
city of Manila, its buildings radiating from a
common center, so that the guard in the high
tower at the hub can overlook anything that
occurs. High walls surround the whole, pa
trolled by watchful guards and mounted with
gatling guns. It is an extraordinary institu
tion, inherited from Spanish rule, but, like ev
erything else, completely changed since then.
The wives of men committed there were consid
ered widowed in those days, since so few sur
vived a long term, and were free to marry again.
There has been some confusion of late years,
because most of the prisoners not only come out
alive, but healthier than when they went in. So

238 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
prison "widows" who remarried found that
they had not counted on American methods.
Bilibid, though in many ways still rather ex
perimental, is a great success.
There are extensive shops, and the prisoners
are kept at work all the time. Some make sil
verware, carriages, and furniture, while others
do the cooking and washing for the prison,
make their clothes, and run a laundry, not only
for their own use, but for outside custom.
Many are employed in road building and on
fortifications. Each man learns a trade dur
ing his term of imprisonment, and so is better
able to earn an honest livelihood than when he
entered. I have been told that Bilibid "grad
uates" are in demand because of their honesty
and industry. No better recommendation for a
prison could be desired.
Besides the shops, there is a school in which
they are taught English. The day we visited
the prison we saw a teacher there who had
been a guest at the Governor's table, but as he
had forged a check he was paying the penalty.
Most of the attendants in the up-to-date prison
hospital were Spaniards who were in for life
sentences and who made very good nurses.
Part of this institution is devoted to consump
tives, of whom there are so many in the Islands,

UU!i.".liMUII»»-i'HII«J iMIMWyll'l' H11"1

PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PAL.AWAN.

Healing a Nation 239
and they receive treatment according to the best
and latest methods.
We were much interested in the kitchens, and
the manner in which food was issued to several
thousands in only six minutes. It was all won
derfully systematized.
Late in the afternoon we went up into the
central tower to watch the "retreat." The
prisoners' band, which had played for us as we
entered the prison gates, now took its place in
the courtyard below and began to play. Out of
the workrooms trooped hundreds of convicts,
who were searched for hidden implements and
then released to take their position in military
formation. The different groups marched to
their quarters and, standing outside, went
through a series of exercises to the music of
the band. They seemed to enjoy this very
much, and later, still to the music, marched gaily
off to get their rations.
A long-term prisoner with two years of good
conduct to his credit is given the privilege of
going to the penal colony on the island of Pal
awan. This island is one of the more southern
ones, and is the place where the Spanish sent
their convicts in the old days. But the present
colony, which was established by Governor
Forbes, is very different from the former one.

240 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
It was once a malarial jungle, but now is a
healthy, thoroughly up-to-date and successful
reform institution.
Our visit to this place was one of the most
interesting features of our whole trip. Pala
wan itself is a curiosity, for it has an under
ground river which has been explored for two
miles beneath a mountain. But the penal set
tlement is unique.
Leaving the steamer at Puerto Princessa, a
quaint little town with charming old Spanish
gardens, we were met by a launch which took
us up the Iwahig Eiver to the colony. This
launch, which was gaily decked with flags, was
manned by convicts, the engineer himself being
under a sentence of nineteen years for murder.
After an hour's sail up the tropical river, we
reached our destination. At the wharf we were
greeted by Mr. Lamb, superintendent of the col
ony, a Dominican priest, and a crowd of prison
ers who were enjoying a holiday.
We were driven to headquarters, near a
pretty plaza with hedges and flowers, sur
rounded by several two-story barracks built of
bamboo and nipa, where the prisoners live. As
we walked about the plaza we visited the hospi
tal and the chapel, as well as the main office and
the superintendent's house.

Healing a Nation 241
The penal settlement is located on a reserva
tion of two hundred and seventy square miles.
At the time of our visit there were in all eleven
hundred convicts — Filipinos for the most part,
with a few Moros — and only three white men to
keep them in order. The prisoners had all
come from Bilibid prison.
In its management, the colony is somewhat
like the George Junior Bepublic for boys in
America. The prisoners elect their own judges
and make some of their own laws, subject to the
approval of the superintendent. A majority
verdict will convict, but the superintendent has
the right to veto any measures. Men who break
the laws are locked up, but can be released on
bail. The police force is composed of convicts, of
course. The chief of police when we were there
was a murderer who had earned his pardon but
preferred to remain in the settlement. If a
prisoner tries to escape he is followed, and oc
casionally one is shot. The attempt is seldom
made, for it is difficult to get away, and the men
are, moreover, quite content to live there. Once
thirty-five convicts did make a break for liberty,
but beyond the confines of the settlement they
found themselves in the midst of the savage
Mangyans, by whom some were killed. Of the

242 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
rest, those who were not captured alive returned
of their own free will and were consigned again
to Bilibid, which is considered a great punish
ment. For good behaviour, convicts may earn the
right to have a house of their own, with their
family, one bull or carabao, and a little farm
to cultivate. There were then a hundred and
eighty of these farmers, who raised their crops
on shares, the government receiving half. They
had to report to headquarters by telephone every
other day and undergo a weekly inspection as
well. Every year they were obliged to plant co-
coanuts, which in a few years were expected to
bring in large returns. Already great quanti
ties of yams were being shipped to Bilibid, and
in a short time enough cattle would be delivered
there to supply, in part at least, the meat de
mand of that prison. The colony suggests the
possible solution of the meat question for the
American army in the Philippines, as they were
successfully raising calves from native cows by
Indian bulls.
Although the majority of the prisoners were
engaged in farming, they were often given the
privilege of selecting the kind of work that they
preferred, and were divided accordingly, their
hats and the signs on the sleeves of their prison

Healing a Nation 243
clothes showing what grade of convict they be
longed to and what work they did. They were
paid in the money of the colony, which was good
nowhere else.
There were about forty women on the reser
vation. The men might marry if they earned
the privilege, or if already married, they might
have their wives and children come to live with
them. There were six marriages the year we
were there. After receiving their pardons, they
could remain on the island if they wished, their
work being credited toward the purchase of
their farms, but they had to continue under the
laws of the colony.
At the main office we saw four prisoners who'
were about to be pardoned. Governor Forbes
very kindly asked me to hand them their par
dons and ask any questions I wished. One, a
bandolero, or brigand, was small and wizened.
Another, who looked much like him, when asked
what crime he had committed, laughed and an
swered, "Bigamy!" A third, a stolid, thick
set fellow, had the best face of them all, but
showed no emotion Whatever when I gave him
his pardon. He also had been a brigand.
The convicts gave an exhibition fire drill for
us at the barracks. The natives are born
climbers, and scramble down the poles with the

244 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
agility of monkeys. They also play baseball, of
course. They are remarkably musical and have
a good band.
We had luncheon with Mr. and Mrs. Lamb in
their pretty bamboo and nipa cottage. Mrs.
Lamb was a frail little woman, but strong in
spirit, for she did not seem at all afraid to live
in this land of evil men. She told us that the
three murderers whom she had as servants were
very efficient, and were devoted to her little
four-year-old son.
When our visit ended we were driven in a
wagon to the river, accompanied by a troop of
prisoners who ran alongside shouting good-
bys. At the wharf they lined up while Mr.
Lamb and the priest bowed us politely aboard
the launch.
These intrepid countrymen of ours, who are
healing and uplifting a whole people, seem to
me to be true missionaries. The time may come
when the work which they are doing will set a
standard for us stay-at-homes to follow, that is,
if we send the right kind of men out there. As
the song says,
"Ah, those were the days when the best men won,
The survival of those that were fit —
When the work to be done counted everything,
And politics nary a bit."

CHAPTEB VI
DOG-EATERS AND OTHERS
&HE natives of the Philippines are Malays,
as I have said, but they are sometimes
classified as Christian, Pagan and Mo
hammedan Malays. The Christian and edu
cated tribes live near the coast on the lowlands
and are called Filipinos. They have intermar
ried greatly with the Spaniards and Chinese.
There are twenty-seven non-Christian tribes in
the Islands — about four hundred thousand in
number in the Mountain Province of Luzon
alone. These hill people are seldom seen, al
though during the last few years most of the
tribes have come under government influence
and head-hunting has been more or less given
up. These dwellers in the mountains include
the aborigines who were driven out of the val
leys by the Malays, and also the Malays of the
earlier migration, who refused to embrace the
Mohammedanism of the Moros of the southern
islands or the Christianity of the Spaniards.
We were fortunate in having the opportunity
245

246 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
to see some of the dog-eaters and other hill
people. Our party was divided, and while sev
eral of the men went into the heart of the head
hunting country, the rest of us took the train to
Baguio, the mountain capital. What a night it
was! The heat was frightful, and swarms of
mosquitoes added to the torture. But at sun
rise, as I sat on the back platform while the
train steamed through rows of cocoanut palms,
past httle huts and stations, I was reminded of
this verse :
"Mighty, luminous and calm
Is the country of the palm,
Crowned with sunset and sunrise,
Under blue unbroken skies,
Waving from green zone to zone,
Over wonders of its own ;
Trackless, untraversed, unknown,
Changeless through the centuries."
Leaving the tropics behind, we climbed up,
up among the glorious mountains. At last the
train stopped at a little station, and we took
the motors that were waiting and went on higher
and higher into cloudland, where the tall pines
grew and the mountains rose into the sky.
We had indeed ascended "into Paradise from
Purgatory." As one resident in Manila ex
pressed it : " The heavenly coolness, the sweet

Dog-Eaters and Others 247
pine air and the exquisite scenery give you new
life after the years spent in the heat, glare, dust
and smells of the lowlands."
We were passing over the far-famed Benguet
Boad, one of the finest highways in the world,
which wound in and out through the gorges of
the mountains, repeatedly crossing the river
that roared beneath. For twenty miles we zig
zagged up the slopes, with widening views of
great hills opening before us, and cascades
bursting out from beneath the mountains, till we
came out on the plateau of Baguio, five thousand
feet above the sea.
This road, which has been a favourite theme
for discussion by politicians, was opened to
traffic in 1905. It is true that the cost of the
.roadway was beyond what anybody had antici
pated, on account of the many bridges that
had to be repaired each year after the rainy
season, and also after the destructive typhoons
that sweep over the island- — one in 1911 brought
a rainfall of forty-six inches in twenty-four
hours — which hurl avalanches of debris from
the mountain slopes. For this reason a new
road from Bauang to Baguio has been com
menced, not nearly so direct but requiring only
a few bridges, and it is to be hoped will prove
successful and more economical than the other.

248 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Baguio, in the midst of glorious moun
tain scenery, where the temperature never goes
above eighty and the nights are deliciously cool,
really is an ideal health resort for a tropical
country. The Philippines have Mr. Worcester
and Mr. Forbes to thank for this blessing.
Government buildings were erected, and the
whole force of the government was moved up
there for the hot season, with the rich return of
the improved health and greater efficiency of the
employees. A hospital for tuberculosis was
built, and a much needed school for American
children, the Jesuit observatory was estab
lished, and Camp John Hay was laid out as a
permanent military post. Many people bought
land and put up little bungalows. A teachers'
camp was started by the Bureau of Education
for American teachers from all over the Islands,
where they had not only rest and recreation but
the mental brushing up of good lectures after
months in lonely stations.
When the Democratic Administration began
its changes in the Philippines, government of
fices were ordered to be kept in Manila through
out the year, consequently only the higher of
ficials were able to go to Baguio, with a result
patent to every one in the lessened efficiency of
the force. But within the last two or three

Dog-Eaters and Others 249
years, the Filipinos have come to appreciate
the place, which was a revelation to them. Now
rich and poor manage to go there, and they
have taken possession. The benefits of Baguio
and the Benguet Eoad are felt even in Manila,
where Americans are beginning to get fresh
garden peas, summer squash, wax beans and
real strawberries ( !). A friend writes, "If the
time ever comes when we can have real cow's
milk and cream, then our food will be as good
as anywhere in the States."
We had a glorious week at Topside, Governor
Forbes 's attractive bungalow, and speedily be
came as enthusiastic in our praises of Baguio as
every one else who has ever been there. I rode
all day long on Black Crook, the most perfect
polo pony in the world, through the mists and
the sunlight and into the rainbow shades of the
setting sun, where the clouds turned the colour
of cockatoos' wings and the tints of the fish from
the China Sea.
"Cloud Maidens that float on forever,
Dew-sprinkled, fleet bodies, and fair,
Let us rise from our Sire's loud river,
Great Ocean, and soar through the air
To the peaks of pine-covered mountains
Where the pines hang as tresses of hair."
I played my first polo game at Baguio on the

250 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
club grounds. Squash Pie, Calico Pie and
other delightful names were given to the native
ponies, which are small but very strong.
We went to the government stock farm, where
they are trying experiments in breeding horses.
They had a native pony there that had been well
fed and taken care of for some time, in order to
show the difference between it and the forlorn
animals that one might see anywhere in the
towns. The native Spanish pony has greatly
degenerated. At this farm they had a beautiful
Arabian stallion and a Morgan stallion from
Vermont. It is said that the first generation of
American horses does well in the Philippines,
but after that the climate and the change in food
cause them to deteriorate. Besides, they are
rather too big for mountain cavalry. The Ara
bian stallion and the native mare are said to
breed the best kind of horse for this country.
Black Scotch cattle and Australian cattle, which
are raised at the government farm, do well.
Sheep do not pay, for, to begin with, there is no
market for the wool. Goats do well, and goats'
milk is in great demand. The natives use prin
cipally the carabao and the native cattle, which
look like small Jersey cows but are not very
good. Another day, Mrs. Whitmarsh, from Boston,

IGOUOT SCHOOL GIRL WEAVING.

Dog-Eaters and Others 251
gave us a tea in a little house hung with orchids
and Japanese lanterns, and we visited Mr.
Whitmarsh's gold mine. Some of us went on
horseback down into the valley to see the tun
nels. We washed a pan of ore in the brook and
found at the bottom little fine gold specks. The
Benguet Igorots have mined gold for centuries.
At Baguio we visited missionary and govern
ment schools and Camp John Hay, where Cap
tain Hilgard gave us a reception. At the gov
ernment school the Igorot boys are taught,
among other things, to make attractive mission
furniture, while the girls learn to weave, and
very pretty things they make. These girls wear
short blue skirts and little jackets, and have
their hair in two long black braids that hang on
either side of their faces. A Turkish towel,
worn as a turban, on which to rest burdens,
seemed to be the fashion in head gear with them.
Loads are also carried by the Igorots on their
backs, hung by straps over the forehead.
It was an Igorot child in this school who
wrote the following article upon Mrs. Dickin
son's visit at Baguio:
"It was yesterday morning very early when
we started from here to the Post Office to meet
a lady named Mrs. Dickinson. So early we all
went down the brook to take our bath. After

252 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
we had taken our bath we had breakfast. I was
late so Ina scolded me, but I am glad she did it
so that some day I won't do it again. Then
we were all line up in two by two. When we
got up to the Post Office she was not there so
we waited for her an hour or two. After wait
ing for them they arrived suddenly. There
were some ladies who accompanied Mrs. Dick
inson. We were very much pleased to see her
and she was much pleased too. The first time
that she came in the Philippine Islands from
America and she is soprice (surprised). We
sang three songs and the National Anthem and
waving our flags on the road. When we fin
ished singing they clapped their hands. I gave
her a bouquet of pink flowers. This we did it
for our honour of Mrs. Dickinson not because
she is more kind or lovely lady but because she
is the wife of Mr. Dickinson. This Secretary
of War is the leader of those who have authori
ties. He is responsible of them. After that
we came right back. Miss B. came for school.
We cleaned the schoolroom and the yard so that
they will be so tidy when they come to see the
school at three o'clock. We fixed the two
bridges and we trimmed the road little bit for
their automobiles to dance on. But they left
them on the road yonder because they afraid

IGOROT OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE.

Dog-Eaters and Others 253
might the bridges will do them damage. So
they walked from there to here, and when they
went back, they walked from here to there again,
making them a journey."
Doctor White, the missionary at Baguio, and
his sister took me one day to the tombs of the
Igorots. High on the hills looking toward the
sea are great natural rocks with cracks in them,
one of which looked like the Sphinx. Here we
got off our ponies, tied them, and entered on
foot a tangled path leading to a cavern. In the
faint light that sifted through we saw a coffin,
some baskets and some hats, and farther on,
concealed and yet overlooking a fine view, were
more wooden coffins. Some of these had fallen
apart so that we could see the remains of bones
and clothes. When an Igorot dies the body is
usually tied in a sitting position on the top of
a pole in the house and smoked for several days
over a fire built underneath it. Meanwhile, the
family kill and cook all the pigs and carabaos
and ponies, if the man owned any, and then
gather around and have what they call a canao,
or feast. Afterward the bones and skulls of
the carabaos are hung about the house to show
their neighbours what a rich man he was.
Some of us went one day to Mirador, the ty
phoon station, on a high hill overlooking the sea.

254 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
It is in charge of a Jesuit priest, who predicts
the approach of typhoons and puts up storm
signals, in this way preventing great loss of life.
We were shown the instruments, which give
warning of earthquakes as well as typhoons,
and given sherry that was fifty years old, de
licious cake, and flowers from his garden, and
we saw his goats climbing up the steep crags.
He told us with a chuckle that he had traded his
dog to an Igorot for a cow.
On Sunday we visited the dog market, but
alas ! we saw no dogs, as on account of cholera
in the vicinity, it was forbidden to sell any. A
few days before we had seen several men lead
ing a number of lean and lanky ones along the
road, and these were all for sale, to be killed
and eaten. Long-haired canines are not popu
lar, the short-haired kind are preferred.
Vice-Governor Gilbert had a canao, or feast,
in front of his house one morning. A line of
partly dressed dog-eaters arrived, bowing as
they passed. They proved to be the chiefs or
head men, who had put on what clothes they
possessed for this occasion. They were brown,
bare-legged men with gee strings, as they call
the woven cloth hanging about their waists.
Some had coats on, but nothing underneath, and
only an old hat to complete the costume.

Dog-Eaters and Others 255
The Benguet Igorots, or dog-eaters, are small
but strong, and remind one of our American
Indians. They are peaceful farmers now, but
in days gone by they fought their neighbours
on the north, and so lances and shields are still
to be found among them. "The first American
civil provincial government established in the
Philippines was in Benguet, and governmental
control has been continuously exercised there
since November 23, 1900. They are gladly
availing themselves of the opportunity now
afforded for the education of their children, but
insist that this education be practical."
In order to show the progress that had been
made in the Philippines, a party of Igorots were
brought to the St. Louis Exposition. Part of
the exhibit was a model schoolroom. Visitors
were amazed at the bright, eager little children,
and at their keen interest in their lessons. But
they were even more amazed one day to see
these same model pupils when a dog suddenly
barked outside. For the school simply went to
pieces, the children making for the nearest door.
The last seen of them, they were in full cry after
the unfortunate dog.
Although we found the dog-eaters interest
ing, there are other tribes of far greater inter
est, such as the Negritos, the warlike Ilongots

256 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and the Tingians, as well as the people of the
Bashee rocks of the north, who are hardly ever
seen. The Negritos are diminutive and uncivilized
black people who live to-day in a few mountain
areas. They are the aborigines of the islands
in this part of the world, and are as primitive
as the Australian blacks, having no social or
political organization but that of the family.
They live in hollow trees or under little lean-tos
of grass and brush, and subsist principally by
hunting and fishing, at which they are very ex
pert. Their weapons are poisoned arrows and
the blow gun. The poison, which is made either
from the leaf of a tree or from decomposed
meat, is placed in the arrow-head of hollow bone.
On striking, it injects the poison into the flesh
as a hypodermic needle would do, quickly re
sulting in death.
The only agricultural implement of the Ne
gritos is a pointed stick hardened in the fire.
To prepare the ground for cultivation, on the
space they wish to clear they girdle the trees,
which will soon die. They are then set on fire
and the ashes distributed over the soil. Later,
holes are made with the pointed sticks, and
camotes, sugar-cane and tobacco are planted.
These people are very timid, and if their

Dog-Eaters and Others 257
suspicions are aroused in the slightest manner,
they immediately disappear into the forest.
Very little success has attended any effort to
civilize them. Their religion is nature worship
with many local divinities and good and bad
spirits of all sorts.
They ornament their bodies with scar pat
terns, made by cutting the skin with sharp
pieces of bamboo and then rubbing dirt into the
wounds. In this respect they are like no other
tribes in the Islands but resemble the most
primitive of the native Africans, who also make
scar patterns. The men often shave the crowns
of their heads in order, they say, "to let the
heat out." The Negritos, like the Bagobos of
the south, sometimes point their front teeth, but
not by filing them as one might suppose. They
are chopped off with a bolo.
Worcester says the Negritos "believe that
each family must take at least one head per
year or suffer misfortune in the form of sick
ness, wounds, starvation or death." Heads are
buried in the ground under the "houses" of the
men who take them.
In regard to the Tingians of northern Luzon
I also quote from Worcester, who has given us
the most reliable account of them:
"The women of this tribe ornament their

258 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
arms with a series of bracelets and armlets,
which often extend from wrist to shoulder.
They constrict the middle of the forearm dur
ing early girlhood and continue to wear tight
armlets on the constricted portion throughout
life, so that their forearms become somewhat
hourglass-shaped, this being considered a mark
of great beauty in spite of the unsightly swell
ing of the wrists which results. . . .
' ' Their cooking utensils are taken to the river
and scrubbed with sand after every meal. If a
wife offers her husband dirty or soggy rice to
eat, the offense is said to afford ground for di
vorce. . . .
"When a man dies, whether his death be nat
ural or due to violence, the other members of
his family repair by night to some village of
their enemies, cut pieces from their turbans,
and throw them down on the ground. This is'
interpreted as an intimation that they will
return and take heads sometime within six
months, and they believe that the dead man
knows no peace until this is done."
The Ilongots, who live in the province of
Nueva Viscaya, are especially wild and great
head-hunters. They are striking figures in
their deerskin rain-coats. No young man can
take to himself a bride until he has brought

ILOXGOT IX RAIN-COAT AND HAT OF DEERSKIN.

Dog-Eaters and Others 259
back a head to prove his prowess. The favour
ite time for these gruesome excursions of the
tribe is when the blossoms of the fire tree show
their red beacons on the mountain sides. As an
especial mark of beauty and valour, because a
good deal of pain has to be endured in the proc
ess, the men cut off the upper front teeth on a
line with the gums.
Woe betide the man who rides a white horse
into the Ilongot country, for above all things
white hair is desired, and unless he stands guard
over it, he will find its mane missing and its tail
cropped to the skin.
Most of the mountain people still retain their
ancient myths and traditions. Even among
these Ilongots there are tales of the long ago
when they came across a "great water" to their
present abode. This, of course, merely ex
plains the general migration of the Malay
tribes. By the way, this Malay migration is
still in progress, and is exemplified by the
Samal boatmen who come from Borneo and
further south in Malaysia to the southern Phil
ippines. All the wild people have customs of their own,
which distinguish them, especially the manner
in which they cut their hair and wear their loin
cloths. They have slightly different methods

260 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
of fighting, some fighting singly with a kind of
sword, others in pairs with spears and arrows,
while the sword is used only to decapitate the
fallen enemy. Others display considerable abil
ity in organization and operate large bands,
under especially designated chiefs. All are
very fond of dancing and have different dances
to represent war, love and the chase.
They have their own explanations for every
thing, and their stories about the creation of the
various birds and animals are quite interesting
and not unlike those found among some tribes
of aborigines in North America. One of them
relates that one day the Creator was making
the different birds. Before him lay bodies,
wings, necks, heads and feet. He would begin
with the body and build it up with appropriate
parts, so that it could apply itself to the pur
pose for which it was intended. In every case,
the Creator was particular not to put on the
wings before the bird was complete, for fear
that it would take flight in an impet'fect condi
tion. One day while he was engaged in mak
ing an especially fine specimen of the feathered
world, the evil spirit approached and engaged
the Good Spirit in conversation. Ordinarily
he would have attacked the Evil One and

Dog-Eaters and Others 261
quickly put him to flight, but as the bird was
nearly finished and already imbued with the
spark of life he wished to complete him. But
the Creator's anger that the Evil One should
overlook his work, became so great that, with
out thinking, he put on the wings before the
legs had been fitted. Instantly the bird flew
off. In haste the Creator grabbed the first pair
of legs he could lay his hands on and threw them
at it. They attached themselves exactly where
they struck the bird, near the tail. This is the
reason, so the story goes, that the loon's legs
are so far back that he cannot walk in an up
right position on land. His peculiarly sad cry
is a lament because he must stay in the water
practically all the time and cannot enjoy him
self on land as other good birds do.
Many of the people who live along the foot
of the mountain ranges, although Christian
ized sufficiently to contribute to the Eoman
Catholic churches, still retain many of their
aboriginal customs, especially those pertaining
to marriage, birth and death.
Beyond the shores of Luzon, stretching north
ward for nearly two hundred miles, is an inter
esting archipelago of diminutive islands known
as the Bashee Bocks, the Batan and the Babu-

262 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
yan Islands.1 The natives still retain many of
the characteristics which were observed by
Dampier in his visit to these islands in the
seventeenth century.
The inhabitants of the Batan group are hke
those living on the Japanese island of Botel To
bago, which is only sixty miles north of our most
northern possession.2 No missionaries or other
persons had been allowed by the natives to land
on their shores until a few Japanese police ar
rived in 1909. They are mentioned in passing
because they are a present-day example of what
the people in the northern islands of the Phil
ippine group were before the coming of the
white men and the friars. Their dwellings are
very peculiar. Each family has a stone-paved
i The name "Bashee," originally applied to the Batan
Islands, was derived from an intoxicating drink of that name
made from sugar-cane and berries. It is still used very lib
erally, especially on all festal occasions. When Dampier's
ships first touched these shores the Bashee was highly re
garded by these ancient mariners.
^ Although we think of Japanese territory as far away
from ours, here it approaches within sixty miles, as I have
said, and within twenty-four miles of Guam the Japanese
have lately occupied the former German islands of the
Mariana group. In Bering Straits we are within three miles
of Russian territory. There are two islands, the Diomedes,
in the center of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia
and* the other by the United States. We usually consider
both Japan and Russia very far off, but their possessions
are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and Mexico.

Dog-Eaters and Others 263
court surrounded by a low wall of stone.
Within this enclosure they have three houses:
one with its sides sunk down into the ground,
in order to give protection from high winds ; one
with ordinary walls for use during normal
weather; and a third built on poles about ten
feet above the ground for use during the hot
season. From these elevated houses a constant
watch is maintained for schools of fish. The
people are expert fishermen and make excellent
nets, and they have beautiful boats with high
bows and sterns.
In Dampier's day the people were friendly
and hospitable, as they are at the present time.
They valued iron more than gold, and gladly ex
changed it for iron. The ancient diggings are
still to be seen, but the "pay dirt" is of such a
low grade that it is not worth while to work it.
The precious metal is washed out by the natives
in cocoanut shells, which take the place of our
prospectors' "gold pan." Many gold orna
ments of attractive design are still to be found
in these islands. Some of those taken from
graves remind one strongly of Chaldean work.
The graves of the ancient inhabitants were
placed high upon the mountains, some near the
smoking craters of the volcanoes, others on the
crests of the non-volcanic hills. It is supposed

264 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
that the graves near the smoking craters were
those of persons who had a bad reputation in
the community, while those on the tops of the
ridges contained the bodies of the good, and
that by this method of burial the ideas of
heaven and hell were carried out in a prac
tical manner. The bodies were placed in ollas,
or earthenware jars, some of which had a
high glaze and were profusely ornamented.
The corpse was inserted into the jar in a sitting
position, and the orifice was sealed by placing
an inverted olla over the mouth of the first.
These jars were then placed on end and a small
pyramid of stones built around them, on the
top of which a little tree was planted. A num
ber of these graves ranged around the edge of
a smoking sulphur crater are an uncanny sight,
which the natives take good care to avoid.
The women of the Batan Islands, when walk
ing or working out of doors, wear a distinctive
headdress, consisting of a long grass hood,
which stretches from the forehead to below the
hips. It protects the head and back from
the sun, wind and rain, so that it is worn at all
times and in all seasons. It is one of the most
original and useful of all primitive garments.
During the dry season but little rain falls in
these islands, and as there are few streams or

WOMAN' OF THE BATAN ISLANDS WITH GRASS HOOD.

Dog-Eaters and Others 265
springs, every means is employed to catch the
least drop. Even the trees in the yards have
pieces of rattan twisted around their trunks and
larger branches, to make the water drop off into
earthen jars.
During the autumn migration of hawks and
eagles from the north, men are stationed on the
thatched roofs of the high dwellings to seize the
birds by the feet as soon as they alight. Great
numbers are caught in this manner every year
and form quite an element of the food supply.
Many of the islands are excellent places for
the production of cattle. Itbayat Island,
unique because its shores are higher than the
interior, has many thousand head of excellent
cattle. The coast is so precipitous that when
they are exported they have to be lowered to
the water's edge by means of a block and tackle,
as at Tangier. They then have to swim out to
the waiting ship, where they are hoisted by their
horns to the deck.
Another of the cattle islands is called Dalu-
piri. This beautiful spot was given in its en
tirety to Aldecoa and Company of Manila by
the Spanish government. In fact, when the
United States first took possession of the Phil
ippines, this company claimed sovereignty over
the island, but this, of course, was not recog-

266 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
nized by the United States Government. The
cattle that are pastured here are a cross be
tween the black Spanish bulls of fighting lineage
and the humped cattle of India. Great care is
taken that the stock be well kept up, and for this
purpose there is a constant weeding out of un
desirables. The method in which this is done
is both interesting and very exciting. The cat
tle roam at will and are very wild and hard to
approach; as a result they have to be hunted
with great care. About twenty men are em
ployed in their capture, all of whom are mounted
on hardy little horses. Four of them are las-
soers and the rest huntsmen. The lassos are
nooses attached to the ends of bamboo poles
about twelve feet long. The rope from the
noose, to the length of about twenty-five feet, is
coiled around the bamboo pole and tied to it
four feet from the lower end. When the lasso
is thrown over an animal's head the pole is
dropped by the rider, the rope unwinds and
drags the pole along the ground, until it catches
on a rock or a bush and stops the mad career of
the animal.
"We started out early one morning," Major
Mitchell writes me, "to cut several young bulls
out of a herd of about five hundred cattle. Led
by the manager of the island, we galloped over

Dog-Eaters and Others 267
the rough surface of the coral-bound hilltops
and through deep, waving grass until one of the
huntsmen signaled that the herd was in sight.
A careful inspection was made of the herd
with a telescope, and the animals for capture
were selected and carefully pointed out to the
lassoers, who immediately took up their posts
in concealment beside a little plain. The hunts
men then proceeded under cover to points
around the herd which would enable them to
drive the cattle on to the little plain where the
lassoers could get in their work. After a wait
of about a half hour, the horn of the chief hunts
man pealed forth and was answered by the yells
of his companions ; the herd, unable to go in an
other direction, dashed for the little plain, fol
lowed by its pursuers. Crouching behind some
low bushes the lassoers waited until the cattle,
now in full stampede, had come within fifty
yards, when in a twinkling they dashed into the
midst of the galloping herd.
"After a terrific race one lasso held true on a
fine young bull, while the rest scampered off into
the ravines and water courses. The dragging
bamboo pole soon brought him to a stop, and
after several charges at his captors, two more
lassos were placed on him, and he was securely
fastened and dragged to a tree, against which

268 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
his head was tied. A little saw was produced
from somewhere, and his gallant horns were cut
off short. An old, sedate carabao, who seemed
to be perfectly at home, made his appearance,
the young bull was tied to the carabao 's harness
and towed off toward the corral. At first he
tried frantically to gore the carabao, but as his
horns had been removed no harm resulted. The
carabao did not mind it in the least but con
tinued tranquilly on his way. Three more bulls
were captured on that day; each furnished ex
ceedingly fast and interesting sport. I have
seen mounted work of a great many kinds, such
as pig sticking, stag hunting, and hunting of
many kinds of game, including our own fox
hunting and polo, but never have I seen any
mounted work which required more dash, nerve,
good judgment and endurance than that dis
played by these herdsmen of the northern is
lands. ' '
Although these islands are bounded on the
north by the Balintan Channel, through which
some of the shipping passes from America to
the southern part of China, they are seldom
visited. This is because, as I have said before,
there are no ports, not even good anchorages.
During the typhoon season they are exposed to
the full force of these great hurricanes, while

Dog-Eaters and Others 269
the waters are infested with hidden rocks and
coral ledges. The U. S. cruiser Charleston ran
aground on a coral reef east of the island of
Camaguin in 1900 and sank immediately. Dur
ing the Busso-Japanese war the fleet of the Bus
sian Admiral Bojesvenski passed on either side
of Batan Island. The Japanese had observers
on the summit of Mt. Iraya on this island, who
are supposed to have signaled by heliograph to
Mt. Morrison in Formosa of the coming of the
fleet. The great armada could be seen from
this mountain for more than one hundred miles.

CHAPTER VII
AMONG THE HEAD-HTJNTEBS
5HEN the Americans first came to the
Philippines, most of the mountain coun
try could be reached only on foot over
dangerous trails. Very large tracts were un
explored, and the head-hunting tribes, who are
found nowhere but in this northern part of Lu
zon, pillaged the neighbouring towns. A state
of order has now been established, except in
parts of Kalinga and Apayao.
The Mountain Province, the home of the head-
hunters, includes the sub-provinces of Benguet,
Lepanto, Amburayan, Bontoe, Ifugao, Kalinga
and Apayao. The officers of the provinces are
a governor, a secretary-treasurer, a supervisor
in charge of the road and trail work and the
construction of public buildings, and seven lieu
tenant governors. All these officers are ap
pointed by the governor general. They live on
horseback, undergo great hardships and also
take great risks.
The manners and customs of these head-hunt-
270

Among the Head-Hunters 271
ing tribes differ somewhat. Each one, for in
stance, has a different mode of treating the
captured head when it is brought in, but all
celebrate a successful hunt with a canao, or
festival. The Ifugaos place the head upon a
stake and hold weird ceremonial dances around
it, followed by speech making and the drinking
of bubud, as they call their wine ; afterward the
skull of the victim is utilized as a household
ornament. Venison and chicken are served at
such feasts and the large fruit-eating bats, which
are considered delicacies. If one of the tribe
has been so unfortunate as to have his head
taken, they berate the spirit at the funeral, ' ' ask
ing him why he had been careless enough to get
himself killed."
The most picturesque of the head-hunting
tribes that my husband saw were the Kalingas,
who are different from all other natives of
Luzon. It is said that the Spaniards took
fifteen hundred Moros into this part of the coun
try more than a hundred years ago, so they may
have founded this tribe. At all events, the
Kalingas are superbly developed, tall and slight,
some of the men having handsome and almost
classical features.
Neither the men nor the women cut the hair,
which, in the case of the men, is banged in

272 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
front and tied up with rags behind, some wear
ing nets to keep it out of their eyes. Al
though the women have abundant hair they
use "switches," into which they stick beautiful
feathers. The men also decorate themselves in
the same way. On the back of the head they
often wear little caps woven of beautifully
stained rattan and covered with agate beads,
and these are used as pockets in which small
articles are carried. Great holes are pierced
in the lobes of their ears, into which are thrust
wooden ear plugs, with tufts of red and yellow
worsted. Almost every Kalinga woman wears
a pair of heavy brass ear ornaments and some
times a solid piece of mother-of-pearl cut like
a figure eight.
The Kalingas are particularly warlike, their
very name meaning "enemy" or "stranger,"
and endeavours to bring them under govern
ment control were begun only a few years ago.
There are still some rancherias which the lieu
tenant governor has not yet visited, as it seemed
best to wait and bring the people to terms by
peaceful means.
While we were enjoying ourselves at Baguio,
the Secretary of War, Governor Forbes, Secre
tary Worcester, General Edwards, and my hus
band started north into the mountains to see

 Among the Head-Hunters 273
some of the strange tribes that were gathering
from far and wide to meet the great Apo, or
chief, as they called Secretary Dickinson. I
give the account of the trip in my husband's
own words:
On Saturday night, July 31st, after the As
sembly baile, we motored to the docks and went
aboard the transport Crook for the trip north
ward. We were made very comfortable on
this big transport, with deck cabins, but we
all slept on the open deck by preference and
had a pleasant run till in the morning we were
entering Subig Bay, a splendid vast harbour
between great mountains, the narrow entrance
guarded by Isola Grande. Here we landed and
visited the batteries, and although it was a small
island it was a stewing hot walk about it — espe
cially as the Secretary sets a great pace — till a
torrential shower came up and drove us to the
commanding officer's house, where we had a
bite of breakfast — and all the breakfasts at the
posts which we have visited have been so good !
General Duvall had come up from Manila on
his yacht Aguila, and on board of her we
crossed the bay to Olongapo, where there is the
present naval station. The great hulk of the
famous floating dock Dewey was looming up
there, just floated again after her mysterious

274 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
sinking which, even now, they do not seem to
be able to explain.
The guard was out with the band, and the
honours were paid and the marines paraded,
but soon another severe tropical storm broke,
and drove some of us back to the ship while the
others went on to another breakfast at the
Officers ' Club. This storm suggested a typhoon,
but there had been no warning from the Jesuit
observatory at Manila, and so we rejoined the
Crook out by Isola Grande and went to sea with
out fear.
This is the rainy and typhoon season but the
warnings of severe storms are so carefully
given that they have lost their terrors now-
a-days; and this year, so far, there hasn't been
a disturbance, much to our comfort, as it has
permitted the carrying out of all our plans.
It is a most unusual thing for such good weather
to continue. The hot season is over, and this
is called the intermediate, but it is the time of
rains on this coast, the seasons differing slightly
on the different coasts and in the different
islands. So all that night we cruised up the
coast through showers of rain and lightning,
passing by Bolinao Light, which we had first
sighted as we approached the Philippines.
Before daylight we stopped off Tagudin, and

Among the Head-Hunters 275
through the darkness could be seen the dim
shadow of land and mountains, and a light burn
ing on the beach as a beacon. With dawn we
saw a wonderful tropical shore develop before
us, of low land fringed with palm, surrounded
by beautiful mountain ranges, a tiny village on
the beach, and a crowd of people gathered to
gether. Soon a surf -boat put out and brought
aboard the governors of the nearby provinces —
Early and Gallman, brave, ready men, who have
taken these wild people in hand and become
demi-gods among them — and after a bite of
breakfast we were all taken ashore through the
surf, very handily, and the Secretary was wel
comed by a native band and the chief men of
the neighbourhood and crowds of half naked
natives. The Ilocanos of the northwest coast of Luzon
are a fine, kindly race, but there had also come
down from the interior a lot of small brown
men to pack in our baggage, Bontoe Igorots,
head-hunters and dog-eaters, of whom we were
to see more in their own country. These little
fellows at first seemed like dwarfs; but soon
after, as we saw them better, they proved small
but well formed and well nourished, strong, gen
tle little people. They ran forward and seized
our packages and disappeared down the trail in

276 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
a wild, willing manner. Off they trotted while
we were packed into carromatos, dragged by
weedy, diminutive native horses, which are
wonderfully powerful for their size. We
went, after greeting the people, off down
the trail, through the outskirts of Tagudin (we
didn't go into the town, which was somewhat to
one side, as there had been some cholera there),
with its nipa houses of plaited grass, perched
up above the ground, many decorated in honour
of the occasion. We rattled along an excellent
road (for we have certainly done wonders in
road-building here), past paddy fields, where
the slow carabao grazed with little children
perched on their backs, past troops of natives,
with their loads, standing alongside.
Governor General Forbes had made the most
wonderful preparations for the trip. It was the
first time that any American officials (only Insu
lar officials previously) had gone in to these wild
people, and of course the Secretary is the high
est in rank that can visit the Islands since he
is the one through whom the President governs
the Philippines and the President can never
come. The trip was unique and all the arrange
ments were extraordinary. For a new trail had
been planned into the mountains but was not
due to be done for eight months, and yet thou-

Among the Head-Hunters 277
sands of these wild men had been called in and
helped to finish the road so much the more
quickly (for we were the first party to pass
over it, and some of the bridges had only been
finished the night before we passed), eagerly
and willingly, when they were told that the
great Apo was coming in to visit them. Forbes
had sent to Hongkong for some rick'shaws and
had had men trained to pull and push them,
but these had not stood the test well and we
didn't have the need or the chance to use them;
he also had had palanquin chairs brought over
from China and men taught in a way to carry
them, and these we did use on some of the steep
descents. But we rode horses, excellent ones,
from Forbes 's own stable, almost all the way.
Every three kilometers, companies of Igorots
and Ifugaos were stationed to act as cargadores
and rush along the baggage by relays, and this
they did with shouts and cheers as quickly as
we traveled. Tiffin and breakfasts had been
prepared all along the way. Every eventuality
had been anticipated, and it was really too well
done, for it made our traveling seem so easy
that we had to think hard to realize into what
out-of-the-way places we were going. A few
days before it would have been necessary to
work our way over the perpendicular old trails,

278 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
with difficulty finding bearers for our packs,
and we would have been compelled to carry our
own food, a severe trip and a hard under
taking. We went in absolutely unarmed and
without escort, and yet nearly every native that
we saw, after we reached the hills, carried his
spear and head ax; but there wasn't a sugges
tion of danger. People were brought together
on this occasion from different tribes who two
years ago would have killed each other at sight,
and yet to-day were dancing with each other.
We were accompanied by the governors of
the sub-provinces as we passed through them,
and an unarmed orderly and Sergeant Doyle,
who had charge of Governor Forbes 's horses,
and generally by a shouting horde of natives.
The Secretary proved a wonder ; well mounted,
as he was, he led on at a great pace, till it
seemed a sort of endurance test. I was more
than pleased to find that I stood it as I did, for
we traveled four days out of the five for forty
miles a day, and rode most of it a-horseback.
I came out finally in much better form than when
I went in.
And so, from the beach where we landed, the
carromatos carried us across the low coast
plain, over new bridges on which the inscrip
tions stated that they had been finished for the

Among the Head-Hunters 279
passage of the Secretary and his party, and
under triumphal arches made of bamboo which
welcomed him; all the natives whom we passed
saluted, and many wished to shake hands
or only touch the hand as we passed, till we
came into the foothills, and over them into a
little village of nipa huts among the bamboo
and tropical trees, where we found our horses
waiting. Here we mounted and started off at
a good pace over the well built road that trailed
around cliff and crag as we worked into the
mountains, a procession, a cavalcade, winding
in and out. We traveled along the valley of a
river, that later became a gorge with steep cliffs
and precipitous sides; all the natives were out
to greet the Secretary; and finally we came to
a tiny village where we had a drink of refresh
ing cocoanut water, all the people standing
about or hanging out of the windows of the sim
ple houses, which looked very clean and neat.
We trailed on along the narrow road, cut into
the rock in many places, really a remarkable
road, and up the gorge with the rushing river
below us. The mountains rose high and opened
up in lovely velvety greens, and shaded away
into the blues of distance. We stopped at a lit
tle native rest house, above a ford in the river,
where we found a luncheon prepared for us, but

280 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
it was a hurried luncheon, and on we went climb
ing a winding trail that zigzagged up the steep
mountainside, through tropical tangle of bam
boo and fern and great overhanging trees with
trailing parasites — the ghost tree, the hard
woods, and some with a beautiful mauve flower
at the top that even Mr. Worcester couldn't tell
me the name of (he said he had been so busy
inventing names for the birds that he hadn't
had time yet to find names for trees). And be
low the views opened up wider and more splen
did, and range on range of mountains rose above
each other, while the precipices grew deeper and
more terrifying.
And suddenly, as we came to a turn in the
trail, there appeared above us a most pic
turesque sight against the skyline, some Ifugao
warriors, lithe, beautifully formed men, whose
small size was lost in their symmetry, with
spears in their hands, turbans of blue wrapped
about their heads, and loin cloths of blue with
touches of red and yellow in their streaming
ends that hung like an apron before and like a
tail behind; their handsome brown bodies like
mahogany. They had belts made of round
shells from which hung their bolos. These were
the head men of a company of Ifugaos who had
come this far to greet the party and they stood

 Among the Head-Hunters 281
so gracefully on the point above us ; and around
the turn we found the rest of the band, stunning
looking fellows, standing at attention in line
behind their lances, which were stuck in a row
in the ground. Here we had another tiffin, while
these warriors seized and scampered off with
our luggage.
From this time on, as we traveled, we found
reliefs of these picturesque people, waiting their
turn at carrying, and then all would join in
the procession, and shouting a cheer like Amer
ican collegians, their war cry, they would rush
on and frighten us to death with the risk of
going over the steep places. Away off in the
distance, reechoing through the valleys, we
could hear the cheers and cries, very musical,
of others of our party as they traveled along.
Soon we began to be greeted by the tom-toms
of natives who had come out to honour the Sec
retary, and by their singing as we approached,
and then they would dance round in a strange
way as we passed on.
The Ifugaos had come to meet the Secretary
from several days' journey away, mostly
through Bontoe Igorot country, all armed, and
yet there hadn't been a sign of trouble. And
these Ifugaos, who two years ago were wild
head-hunters, have been brought into wonderful

282 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
control by their governor, Gallman. There are
some one hundred and twenty thousand of these
picturesque people, among whom head-hunting
is now nearly stamped out; though there are
sporadic cases doubtless. These little savages,
too, appear most gentle and tractable, most will
ing and laughing, in the rough tumbling of the
trail; and they have proved very clever, for
they were the builders of the roads over which
we traveled (we were told that they could drill
rock better than Americans, on a few months'
practice, and that they have sat for a few days
and watched Japanese bricklayers set brick,
and then done it as well as the Japanese). But
indeed their sementeras — their paddy fields —
their terracing, which they have practised for
hundreds of years, is the most wonderful in
the world, and there is nothing even in Japan
to compare with their work of this kind. Their
great game of head-hunting has taught them
cleverness, and they are full of snap and
go. The Ifugao is a great talker and has all the
gestures of an orator. When he begins a speech
he first gives a long call to attract attention,
then climbs a stand fifteen feet high by means
of a ladder. He generally begins his remarks
by stating that he is a very rich man, and goes

 Among the Head-Hunters 283
on to praise himself and his tribe, and at the
end of his harangue he often himself leads off
in the applause by loudly clapping his hands.
He has become a fine rifleman and is a fearless
fighter. In clout, coat and cap, and a belt of
ammunition, with legs bare, he travels incredible
distances and makes a good constabulary sol
dier. The Governor General is anxious to form
them into a militia, but they lose their grip, we
were told, when they are taken down from the
hills to the plain.
And so we went on up to over four thousand
feet, to where the pass broke through the moun
tain, and there before us was a vast valley
with a splendid plain beyond, and in the middle
of it, on a prominence, we could see Cervantes,
where we were to stop our first night. It
seemed so near and yet proved many miles
away as we traced our way down the steep
coasts of the valley and the view of the plain
below widened and the ranges of mountains be
yond rose into finer heights. We twisted and
trailed zigzag down the pine-clad slopes, for
the change of vegetation (due to the mountain
range, which divided a different climate on
either side of it) in passing over the ridge had
been remarkable, and though we had seen rare
orchids and begonias as we mounted, we de-

284 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
scended from the same height through pine and
pasture. When finally we reached the plateau and had
crossed a river bed we were met by the people
of the village of Cervantes — many girls in gay
dress riding astride on their midget ponies, and
men and boys on their rugged little mounts.
These escorted the party under the triumphal
arches into the grass streets of the pretty vil
lage, where the simple public buildings were
decorated, and the local band played, till we
finally were taken to the houses where we were
to spend the night, the Secretary and the Gov
ernor and Clark and myself going to the Lieu
tenant Governor's. He was married to a Fili
pina wife. And here I must say that we met
several of these Filipina wives of white men, and
they had most perfect manners and self pos
session and real grace (and this one was a good
cook). The house was a best class native house
and more comfortable than we had anticipated,
though there were sounds and smells that
rather disturbed us. There was a reception
and baile at the municipal building in the
evening, where we had to go and dance a rigo
don, each partnered off with some dainty little
Filipina lady. And then we did hurry home to
rest, for we had been up since half after four

Among the Head-Hunters 285
that morning and were to start next morning
a httle after five.
The next day's trail was very fine, for we
started off over a river which we crossed on a
flying bridge, a swinging car on a cable, while
the horses were forded ; and then we had splen
did but slow climbing up the gorge of one river
after another, coasting the mountainside, where
we could see the mark of the trail many miles
ahead above us and part of our procession trail
ing along in single file or rushing along with
distant shout, as the little willing native car
gadores carried their loads up and up. Above
us rose Mount Data, with its mysterious water
fall that seems to come right out of its peak,
and clouds circled about us, and below the val
leys streaked away into the distance and the
ranges rose higher and higher, and the play
of light and shadow was beautiful on the greens
and grays and browns and blues of the dis
tances. We began to see rancherias, the native
villages, perched up on the hills, the thatched
roofs like haystacks, with blue smoke at times
coming through; and paddy fields began to
climb the upper valleys in their terraces, with
the pale green rice, and fringes of the banana
palm of which the hemp is made. In places the
red croton was planted on the terraces for luck,

286 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and in the ravines which we crossed there were
cascading falls and pools.
We rose higher and higher over another
range, and at the tip-top of the trail another
group of Igorots were dancing and playing
their tom-toms as we passed, and rushed along
side to touch fingers. Soon we passed through
a village built in a stony gorge where a river
ran down. The houses consisted of conical
thatched roofs supported on four wooden piers
with ladders leading up into the roofs where the
people lived. The foundations were terraced
in stone and the paths were stone-terrace, and
it all looked very neat and clean. On our way
back we stopped for tiffin at this same village
and had the women come and show us how they
weave, for it was a place famed for its weav
ing. This time our tiffin was farther on, at a
rest-house with a splendid view, and it had been
laid out so prettily with temporary flower beds
and bamboo arches. The Belgian priest from
a town nearby had come to join us at lunch
eon, and although he spoke no English I had
a pleasant time with him in French, for he
proved to be a sort of relative of our cousins
the de Buisserets; his name was Padre Sepul
chre, one of a band of Belgians belonging to
no order but educated highly for missionary

Ml

RICE TERRACES.

Among the Head-Hunters 287
priesthood, who have been sent out, since our
occupation, by the Pope, and many of whom
are rich and gentlemen born. This one had
already in two years spent some twenty thou
sand dollars gold of his own money in his town.
Another such missionary we met at Bontoe, and
several at other places, and all are said to do
good work.
We started off after tiffin on the long trail
that wound down the gorge of El Chico de
Cagayan Eiver, on our way to Bontoe. Vil
lages became more numerous and were very
picturesque, on the spurs of mountain above
the river, or embowered in coffee trees, where
the mountain coasts were patched with pine
apple plantations. And the paddy fields grew in
terrace after terrace, most splendid engineering
by these primitive people, rising above each
other up into the clouds, fitting into the contours
of the mountainsides, the terrace walls over
grown with green, and the pale green paddy
within, and little cascades carrying the water
down from terrace to terrace, most lovely, like
some great hanging gardens ; little brown people
were stooping at work in them, all naked, but
with their clothes covered by leaves and bal
anced on their heads, to be kept dry; for there
were showers and cloud effects that added to the

288 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
beauty of the panorama as we passed. The ter
races add beauty and interest to the eye by their
succession of levels, and as we traveled into the
country they became more frequent and com
plete. Curiously enough, the Bontoe Igorots
have forest laws and a forest service of their
own. The mountainsides of their rough coun
try are sparsely timbered with pine, which has
grown very scarce near some of the larger set
tlements. Forests in the vicinity of such settle
ments are divided up into small private holdings
claimed by individuals, whose right thereto is
recognized by the other members of the tribe.
In many places it is forbidden to cut trees until
they have reached a large size, although the
lower branches are constantly trimmed off and
used for firewood. Forest fires are kept down
to facilitate reforestation, and young trees are
planted. Such foresight on the part of a primi
tive people is certainly unusual.
So we trailed all day, till toward half after
five we turned a point and came to Bontoe,
after a procession of natives had come stream
ing out some miles up the gorge to meet the
party. Bontoe is the capital of the Mountain
Province and was the goal of our journey.
The native town is very dirty and is acknowl
edged to be one of the worst of the native vil-

IFUGAO COUPLE.

 Among the Head-Hunters 289
lages ; in the more savage places the towns are
said to be cleaner. We walked through it,
where the terraced stone walks pass by stone
pits where the pigs wallow, and by thatched
houses which have no exit for the smoke and
so are filthy and in dreadful condition. We
saw the communal shacks in which the unmar
ried and widowed members live with their
peculiar rights, and the sties where the old men
resort to talk, and we stood outside the wretched
place where the skulls are kept, and some heads,
all black and smoked, were brought out in a
basket from the secret recesses for us to see.
Some of these Bontoe Igorots are skilful
smiths, and they make excellent earthen pots
and clay pipes. They have interesting athletic
sports of their own and take to those of the
Americans. They are especially fond of beads,
which are wound in their hair or hung about the
neck, and greatly value large white stones,
caring little for agates, so highly prized by the
Kalingas. Into Bontoe for this great occasion had been
brought warriors and women from the Kalingas
and Ifugaos, with Igorots from about, some
from a distance of several days' travel; and
for the first time these warring tribes, who only
two years before were taking each other's heads,

290 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
came peacefully together, and watched each
other with as much interest as they watched us.
The adventures of the American lieutenant
governors read like romances, and here they
were before us with their following: the Ka
lingas more dangerous and warlike than the
Ifugaos, and the Ifugaos more picturesque and
interesting than the Igorots, and all together
making a never-to-be-forgotten scene.
There were, too, several small companies of
native constabulary, for these hill men make
splendid soldiers and take great pride in their
arms and uniform, and have proved loyal to the
death. All the different tribes and the con
stabulary had turned out to receive the Secre
tary, and it was a vociferous and noisy yelling
crowd that streamed about in irregular proces
sion. We were, some of us, taken to a govern
ment house that was comfortable, and took
our meals at a club which the officials have
built and which is quite pathetically complete,
and that evening we did little before turning
in — the first evening since we had landed in
the Islands when we were able to turn in at a
reasonable hour with the prospect of sleeping
as late as we pleased next day.
Next day was a day of festivities, a cafiao,
for from morning till night there was dancing

 Among the Head-Hunters 291
by these fantastic peoples, whom so few white
men have ever seen. We were waked early
enough, alas! by the ganzas — the tom-toms —
and there were parades of the different tribes
through the town. A small grandstand had
been erected in the plaza, and there we stood
with the Secretary and the few white teachers
and the missionaries from about, while the pro
cession was reviewed.
The constabulary came first, dressed only in
loin cloths of different colours below the waist,
but with the regulation khaki uniform blouse
and cap above. They are officered by Amer
icans and a few natives, and are most military,
notwithstanding the strange appearance of their
bare legs. Some companies were very well
drilled, and they gave exhibitions of different
manuals as well as any regular white soldiers
might have done.
The wild Kalingas came past next, most
picturesque, with their feather headdresses of
red and yellow, and spears and head axes, and
their brightly coloured loin cloths, and the
women in scant but gay garments, and not at all
ashamed in their nakedness. And these gave
their characteristic dances, with outstretched
arms, hopping and prancing about in a circle,
all the time looking down into the center of the

292 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
circle about which they dance (where the head
of the decapitated is supposed to be). There
were innumerable tom-toms, which they play
with variations, so as to make much rhythm
and movement, and the women joined in the
dancing, more moderately, some with big cigars
in their mouths and looking extremely indif
ferent. Then, when they danced in a circle,
some would prance into the center with shield
and ax and pretend attacks upon each other,
and leap about and grow excited ; and this sort
of thing they kept up all day (and part of the
night, too) off and on.1
i An interesting passage from Worcester describes this
Kalinga dance with more detail:
"Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his
best clothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bear
ing the shield, lance and head-ax used in the recent fights.
Behind him there creeps along the ground a strange, shrink
ing figure, clad in soiled garments, with a dirty cotton blanket
pulled over its head. The hero attracts attention to himself
by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so much as the
yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon. He
then begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial
voice, the tone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive
of those of a Japanese actor. With word and gesture he
describes his recent exploit, using the shrinking figure be
side him as a dummy to represent his fallen foe. When he
stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their
clangour ceases he resumes his narrative. After concluding
his pantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes
and boasts of previous achievements. Incidentally he in
dulges in high stepping and high jumping and displays

IFUGAO HEAD DANCE.

Among the Head-Hunters 293
The Ifugaos followed and passed by, and
gave their dances, which are the same with a
difference, but each was ended with a mighty
shout, after which one of the head men would
step forward and deliver a rattling speech, and
they greeted the Secretary variously but cor
dially — for they like our American rule, indeed,
they have never had any other, for the Span
iards never attempted to come in and control
them.
deadly skill in the manipulation of his weapons. The crowd
grows even more excited and, during the intervals while the
ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its
monotonous war cry. Finally when his voice has grown
hoarse and his muscles are tired, the principal actor retires
and another takes his place. As darkness comes on, a blazing
fire is lighted within the cafiao circle.
"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who par
ticipated in the recent fight are succeeded by the old men,
who have been kept at home by the burden of years and in
firmities. Strong drink has caused the dying fire in their
veins to flare up for the moment. Each of them has a his
tory of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount. The
crowd already knows his story by heart, and when the forget-
fulness of age or that of intoxication causes him to falter,
prompts him and shouts with laughter at the joke.
"Gradually the basi begins to exert its stupefying effect;
but so long as the music and dancing, and the shouting con
tinue every one manages to keep awake. At last, food is
passed, and in the interval during which it is being consumed
the liquor gets a fair chance to work. As the east begins to
glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in
their places, or hasten to their homes, and the cafiao ends,
for the time being at least.''

294 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Then the Bontoe Igorots followed and gave
exhibitions with noisy demonstrations, and two
presidentes, or chiefs, who six months before
were trying, to kill each other, danced and
pranced together, while the tom-toms beat and
others hopped and circled round. Most of the
men were tattooed, each tribe in its own pecu
liar manner, certain marks indicating that their
bearer had killed his man and taken a head —
some bore marks of many heads ; one man danc
ing was known to have taken seventeen. Many
of the women, too, were tattooed with a feather
like pattern.
And so the dances went on. In some the par
ticipants postured fighting and then represented
wounded men; in others all were head men to
gether ; some were rapid in motion, some slow,
but all had real grace, that grace of the wild
man; and all were finely formed and well-
nourished and healthy looking. When the
dancing was over, the groups of savages in their
fantastic dress squatting around the plaza be
hind their spears stuck in the ground, with bolo
and head-ax and tom-tom, and the women stand
ing about, made a wonderful scene.
After the dances and speeches the head men
came up to the Secretary and handed him
weapons as gifts, sometimes their own, with

WEAPON'S OF THE WILD TRIBES.

 Among the Head-Hunters 295
which they had often fought. Mr. Dickinson,
of course, received the chiefs and the head men
and women afterward, and presented them
with shells and blankets and plumes in return.
The bartering among them was rather amusing,
as they tried to exchange what they had re
ceived and didn't want.
At the club in the evening of the second day,
they gave us a remarkable dinner ; all the Amer
icans in the district were present ; and the few
Filipinos entertained us at a baile, and so our
day was finished.
We started out at daylight next morning and
hiked back by the same trail; but the views
seemed finer in their repetition than even when
we first passed through them. We had had
most superb weather, although it was the rainy
season, and had enjoyed the grand panoramas
to the full; but the last afternoon it came on
to pour down in torrents, which we enjoyed too
as an experience, for we came safely to Tagu
din, where the people and the band joined in
sending us off, as they had received us, and we
were safely taken out through quite a heavy
surf and put on board the Coast Guard boat
Negros, and — had a glass with ice in it again.

CHAPTEE VIII
INSPECTING WITH THE SECEETABY OF WAR
^TJGUST thirteenth is a holiday in the
Philippine Islands, for it is "Occupation
Day," the anniversary of the fall of
Manila and its occupation by the American
army. The special event is a "camp fire" in
the evening at the theater, when the Philippine
war veterans gather together and have ad
dresses and refreshments. After a dinner with
Tom Anderson at the Army and Navy Club,
with its picturesque quarters in an old palace,
intramuros, we attended this performance, sit
ting in the Governor's box and listening to
the happy self -laudation of the "veterans," who
all wore the blue shirt and khaki of war times.
It was toward midnight when we finally left
and went out to our vessel, for we were off for
a trip among the southern islands on the cable
steamer Rizal. We sailed by the light of a
full moon, and for a while had a merry bobbery
of it outside, after passing Corregidor. Soon,
though, we turned a point and had the monsoon
296

Inspecting with Secretary of War 297
following. In the morning we woke to find
ourselves steaming past the fine scenery of
southern Luzon, with the volcano of Taal in the
distance. Several times during the Spanish oc
cupation this volcano dealt death and destruc-
tion, and as late as 1911 it claimed many victims.
Our first landing place was at Kotta, on
Luzon, where we started ashore in a small
launch. It was a beautiful river of palms, but
our boat got stuck in the mud and we were
delayed. We finally reached the shore and
were put into automobiles. Then it was that
I began to feel as if I had joined a circus
parade. Escorted by bands and soldiers, our
motors moved slowly along the streets. Every
where people lined the way, while the windows
of the houses fairly dripped with heads.
We passed many little villages that looked
prosperous, and processions of carts, showing
that the people were active and busy. The road
ran over picturesque bridges, for part of it
was an old Spanish trail rejuvenated. At all
the villages they had made preparations to re
ceive the Secretary, bands were out, the chil
dren stood by the roadside and waved, and
the women stood in rows to greet us. The
municipal buildings were decorated, the piazzas
hung with festoons and lanterns. They all

298 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
wanted to give us comida and let off speeches,
but it was impossible to live through such hos
pitalities, so we only halted at each place a few
minutes to shake hands.
The stop for the night was Lueena, the home
of Mr. Quezon, Philippine Commissioner to the
United States Congress. He traveled with us,
and we found him very attractive. The general
opinion was that Quezon, Legarda, and Osmena
were "playing to the gallery" for political
capital, but at the same time they were support
ing our administration. It is a good deal like
some of our friends in Congress, who make
speeches along lines that they know are abso
lutely untenable.
After climbing into a bandstand, where we
stood surrounded by people peering up at us,
flowery speeches began, demanding independ
ence. They were the first of the kind we had
heard. The Filipinos are good speakers and
keen politicians. Among other remarks, an
orator said: "Many things occur to my mind,
each of which is important, but among them
there is one which constitutes a fundamen
tal question for the Filipinos and the Amer
icans. It is a question that interests equally
the people of the United States and the people
of the Philippine Islands. It is a question of

Inspecting with Secretary of War 299
life or death for our people, and it is a ques
tion also of justice, for the people of the United
States. The fundamental question is evidently,
gentlemen, the question of a political finality of
my country. . . .
"We are very grateful for your visit, Mr.
Secretary, and we hope that the joy that we
felt on your arrival may not be clouded, that
it may not be tempered, but rather that it shall
be heightened, by seeing in you a true interpre
tation of the desires of the Philippine people,
hoping that on your return to the United States
after your visit to the Philippine Islands, you
will tell the truth as regards the aspirations of
the Philippine people."
In answering, the Secretary talked about
the different subjects of interest, such as the
agricultural bank, land titles, etc. He contin
ued: "It is very gratifying to me, coming from
America, and representing the Government in
the position in which I stand, to hear such testi
monials as you have given in regard to the
men that America has sent to assist you in ad
vancing your interests. . . . America has been
careful to send men in whom confidence can be
reposed according to their previous character;
and I want to say to you further, that America

300 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
has given you here just as good government
as she has given to her people at home.1 In all
established governments fair and just criticism
is welcome and I shall not therefore bear any
spirit that would be resentful of any just crit
icism. "I shall be very glad while I am here to meet
those who have the real welfare of the Islands
at heart and the development of this country.
I have many things to do and the time is com
paratively short, but I shall endeavour so to
conduct affairs as to be able to give audience
to all law-abiding people who may desire to
make any representations to me. I shall be at
convenient periods here where I shall be acces
sible, and any communications which are ad
dressed to me personally will receive proper
consideration. Now that states in a general
way the object of my visit and the disposition
that I propose to make of my time while here.
General Edwards, who is with me, as you know,
is the Chief of the Insular Bureau. Certainly
he, more than any other man in America, under
stands conditions in the Philippines, and his
whole time, thought and mind are concentrated
1 It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East
that the fine code of laws which we have given the Philippines
was drafted by our great statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid
of some suggestions from Mr. Worcester.

Inspecting with Secretary of War 301
upon the problems connected with your welfare,
and he is working all the time to advance your
interests. His familiarity with conditions from
the time of America's occupation, the establish
ment of civil government, the settling of the
various commercial questions that have arisen
from time to time, make him the most effective
champion for the Philippine interests in Amer
ica, and he has not hesitated in Congress when
ever your interests are at stake, to stand up
and contend for your interests with vehemence
that ought to make him eligible to all option as
a Philippine citizen. . . .
"You have there a brilliant representative
(Mr. Quezon), who is capable of presenting
your views and aspirations, and of enforcing
your wishes with the most cogent arguments of
which your cause is susceptible. . . .
"Now as to immediate independence: we
Americans understand by immediate, right
away — to-day. Do you want us to get up and
leave you now — to depart from your country?
You would find yourselves surrounded by
graver problems than have hitherto confronted
you, if we should do so. I don't positively
assert, but I suggest that you yourselves pause,
and think whether you might not be reaching
forth and grasping a fruit which, like the dead

302 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
sea fruit, would turn to ashes upon your lips. " x
It was at Lucena that my husband and I went
to Captain and Mrs. S.'s house for the night.
We sat on the piazza by moonlight, among beau
tiful orchids, listening to the band playing in the
distance, and gossiping. I was interested in the
servant problem, and Mrs. S. had much to tell
me that was new.
' ' Our native servants would much rather have
a pleasant 'thank you' than a tip," she said;
"if a tip is offered, the chances are that it will
be refused, for the boys feel that they would
do wrong to accept it. They are very keen,
though, about their aguinaldos — presents — at
Christmas. Every native who has done a
hand's turn for me during the year will turn
up Christmas Day to wish me a feliz Pasquas,
and I am expected to give him a present. My
whole day is for my servants and their children,
who seem to multiply at that time. When I
asked my cochero, 'Lucio, how many ninos have
you?' he answered, 'Eleven, senora.' 'But how
many under fourteen, Lucio?' 'Eleven, se
nora ! ' He wanted all the presents that he could
get," she laughed.
"But if they don't take tips, do they get good
wages?" I asked.
1 1 have taken a few remarks from several speeches.

Inspecting with Secretary of War 303
"Not according to American ideas. A Fili
pino boy will work for small pay, and stay a
long time, in a cheerful home atmosphere.
They are good servants, too," she continued,
"if you take the trouble to train them. I
trained a green boy to be a good cook by taking
an American cook book and translating it into
Spanish. They have a great reverence for
books, and that boy thought he was very scien
tific. I've had him many years. We loaned
him money to build his hut near us. He was a
year paying it off, but he paid off every cent.
Now he has four children for Christmas gifts.
When I went away on a visit, he asked me to
bring him a gold watch from America. So
many years with us gave him that privilege.
As we were gone some time I think he feared
we might not return, so he wrote us a letter."
Seeing my interest, she got the letter and read
it to me:
"My Dear Sir Capt.:
"In accompany the great respect to you
would express at the bottom. It is a long time
since our separation and I'm hardly to forget
you because I have had recognized you as a best
master of maine. So I remit best regard to you
and Mrs. and how you were getting along both,

304 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and if you wish to known my condition, why,
I'm well as ever.
"Sir Capt. If you will need me to cook for
Mrs. why I'll be with you as soon as I can find
some money. "Please Sir Capt.
"Will you answer this letter for me?
"Very respectfully "Yours, Pedro."
' ' On returning from the United States I took
Pedro back," Mrs. S. went on, "but I found
I needed extra house boys. The first who pre
sented himself was Antonio, aged seventeen.
He was a very serious, hard-working boy, whose
only other service had been a year on an inter-
island merchant ship. I took him at once, for
servants from boats are usually well trained.
He turned out well, and in a few months asked
if he could send for his little brother to be
second boy to help him. I said he could, so in
due time Crispin smilingly presented himself.
No questions passed as to salary or work. He
was installed on any terms that suited me. A
few weeks later, Antonio asked if he could bring
his cousin in just to learn the work, so that he
could find a place. I consented, and in time
came Sacarius, gentle and self-effacing, and

Inspecting with Secretary of War 305
apparently intent on learning, and always handy
and useful. Again a favour was asked, this
time that the father of Antonio might come as
a visitor for a three weeks ' stay. He was very
old, would not eat in my house, only sleep in
the servants' room, so again I consented.
Father must have already been on his way, per
mission taken for granted, for his arrival was
almost simultaneous. I found him sitting in
my kitchen in very new and very clean white
clothes, the saintliest old tao, with no teeth,
white hair, and a perpetual smile. He rose
and bowed low to me, but he couldn't speak
Spanish or English, so called his son to him
to salute me for him formally. I returned it
and made him welcome to my house. He bade
them tell me he had journeyed far to tell me
of his gratitude for my goodness to his family
and that he had such confienza in me that he
had instructed his sons never to leave me. The
old fellow enjoyed himself thoroughly, and
spent so much of his son's money that Antonio
shipped him home in a week."
"Are they spoiled by living with Americans ? ' '
"Yes, but it shows most in their clothes.
Antonio dresses almost as well as his master,"
laughed Mrs. S. "But he does not attempt
to work in his best clothes, wearing the regula-

306 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
tion muchacho costume without objection, even
though some of the army officers7 muchacho s
are allowed to dress like fashion plates, and
clatter round the polished floors in their russet
shoes. A muchacho will spend his whole
month's pay for a single pair of American rus
set shoes. They love russet, and the shoe stores
flourish in consequence."
"How about their amusements?" I in
quired. "Whenever they can get off they go to base
ball games and the movies. The little girls
wear American-made store dresses now, and
great bunches of ribbon in their hair, white
shoes, and silk stockings. Some families who
in the early days had hardly a rag on their
backs now own motors. I don't believe you
could force independence on them! The sen-
oritas trip home from normal school with their
high-heeled American pumps, and paint enough
on their faces to qualify for Broadway. The
poor children have to swelter in knitted socks,
knitted hoods, and knitted sweaters, just because
they come from America. Filipino children are
wonderful, though — they never cry unless they
are ill. They are allowed absurd liberty, but
they don't seem to get spoiled. The Filipina
women love white children intensely; the fair

Inspecting with Secretary of War 307
skins seem to charm them, and they really can't
resist kissing a blond child."
We certainly enjoyed our stay at Lucena.
Mrs. S.'s house was so clean and homelike,
with its pretty dining room and its broad ve
randa, and the big shower bath which felt so
refreshing. We went to sleep that night watch
ing the palm leaves waving in the moonlight.
In the early morning we all got into auto
mobiles again and ran over fine roads built
since the American occupation. We left the
China Sea and crossed the island to the Pacific,
climbing a wonderful tropical mountain, where,
by the way, we nearly backed off a precipice
because our brakes refused to work, and we
frightened a horse as we whizzed on to Anti-
monan. The churches here had towers some
thing like Chinese pagodas, and the big lamps
inside were covered with Mexican silver. All
these island towns have a presidente and a
board of governors, called consejales, and each
province has a governor.
Manila hemp is one of the principal products
of this prosperous province, and it is chiefly
used to make rope. The plant from which this
hemp is made looks very much like a banana
plant. The stalk is stripped and only the tough
fibers are used. They employ the cocoanut a

308 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
good deal to make oil, which is obtained from
the dried meat, called copra. They had a pro
cession of their products here at Antimonan,
which was very interesting.
The hemp and cigar importations were first
carried on by Salem captains in the fifties. The
great American shipping firm in those days was
Eussell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company. The
Philippines were out of the line of travel, how
ever, and few people went there except for
trade. In fact, as far as I know, only one book
was written by an American about the islands
before the American occupation.
On the Rizal next morning, when I looked
out of my porthole at dawn, it seemed to me
as if I were gazing at an exquisite Turner
painting. Mount Mayon * was standing there
majestically, superb in its cloak of silver mist,
which changed to fiery red. It is the most
beautiful mountain in the world, more perfect
in outline than Fuji. Mrs. Dickinson was so
inspired by its beauty that she wrote a poem,
a stanza of which I give :
"Mount Mayon, in lonely grandeur,
Kises from a sea of flame,
Type of bold, aggressive manhood,
1 The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experi
enced mountain climbers. The vista from the summit is said
to surpass even the famous view from Mt. ^Etna.

LANDING AT TOBACO.

Inspecting with Secretary of War 309
Lifting high a famous name
'Bove the conflict of endeavour
Ranging round its earthly base,
Where heartache and failure ever
Stand hand-clasped face to face."
Our landing at Tobaco was made in the most
novel way. As the water was shallow and the
Rizal could not get into the dock, three carabaos
hitched to a wagon waded out till only their
noses could be seen; we stepped on to the two-
wheeled cart and sat in state on chairs while
we wiggle-waggled through the water to the
shore. There we went to the town hall and
had a banquet with many brown men and a few
little brown women. The governor of the prov
ince spoke, and General Bandholtz responded
in Spanish for the Secretary, who had gone
ahead to close a government coal mine that was
not proving successful. After the banquet we
had an enchanting automobile ride, through
the quaint villages at the foot of the great
mountain to Albay, where a review of the
scouts was held by the Secretary in the setting
sun. When our party dispersed for dinner L. and
I were "farmed out" to the superintendent
of schools, Mr. Calkins. The houses built for
Americans were all of wood with broad piazzas,
much like summer cottages at home, with the

310 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
hall in which we dined in the. center and the bed
rooms leading off it.
So much has been written about the schools
and the wonders in education in the Philippines
that I shall not try to enlarge on this interest
ing theme, other than to add my tribute to the
government and the teachers, and also to the
people who are wise enough to take advantage
of the opportunities offered. Each little Juan
and Maria, with their desire to learn, may soon
put to shame little John and Mary, if the latter
are not careful.
"It has not been a fad with them, as we
feared it would be," one of the teachers told
me; "they have stuck to it. Many grown-ups
in the family make real sacrifices to keep their
juniors in school. My little Filipina dress
maker is educating all her sister's children and
sending her brother to the law school. At first,
too, we feared there would only be a desire to
learn English and the higher branches, but
with a very little urging they are learning
domestic science and the trades, showing that
they have a mind for practical matters after
all." I begged her to tell me more about the natives,
since she understood the people so well, and
what she said is worth repeating.

Inspecting with Secretary of War 311
"Even in his grief the Filipino is a cheerful
creature," she began; "curiously enough, too,
a death in the family is an occasion for general
and prolonged festivities. An orchestra is
hired for as many days as the wealth of the
family permits, and a banquet is spread con
tinuously at which all are welcome, even
former enemies of the deceased. Strangers
from the street can come; I've often wondered
if the beggars imposed on this custom, but there
are very few of them, and they seem to respect
it. The music drones on day after day. Some
times only one instrument will be left, the other
players going out to smoke, or eat, or rest ; but
they reassemble from time to time and keep it
going. There is always much dancing, for the
natives are great dancers and were not the last
to learn the -one-step and hesitation. Even in
their heel-less slippers they are very graceful.
Of course masses are said, for they firmly
believe that these will take their departed to
heaven. With this belief they are so happy,
knowing the dear one is better off in heaven
than here, that Chopin's funeral march is
quickly turned into waltz time, and the fiesta
waxes merry !
"In Spanish times each district had its band,
which always played at the church festivals.

312 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Each church had its patron saint, and there was
always a saint's day fiesta going on in some
district. In the churchyard booths were spread
as at our country fairs. Everything from toys
to all kinds of chance games, of which they are
so fond, was sold. The band played continu
ously and the people came in crowds. The
Americans have catered to this spirit in the
yearly carnival which is given every February.
This carnival is more than a fiesta, though, for
it is also an exhibition of their produce and
handiwork. Their hats have always been fa
mous, as has their needlework, and under Amer
ican encouragement the basket-work exhibit has
become one of the finest in the world. Some
hemp baskets, woven in colours, look as if they
were made of lustrous silk. I can't say which I
like best, the finest of our Alaskan Indian, or
Apache, or Filipino baskets. Their shell work
is lovely, too, and their buttons are coming into
the world's market for the first time.
' ' The Filipinos are also learning at the School
of Arts and Trades to carve their magnificent
woods most skilfully, and are making furni
ture which will soon be coming to the States.
In the early days a few Chinamen had the
monopoly of furniture carving and making.
They copied the very ornate pieces brought to

Inspecting with Secretary of War 313
Manila by the Spaniards from Spain and
France in the native mahogany called nara, and
in a harder and very beautiful wood called acle,
or in a still harder one known as camagon, a
native ebony. American women soon began to
search the second-hand stores and pawn shops
for the originals, and had them polished and
restored at Bilibid Prison. The expense, con
sidering, was small. A single-piece-top dining
table of solid mahogany is often nearly eight
feet in diameter and two or three inches
thick." Another of the teachers told me something of
her experiences in the early days, when she went
out with her father, who was one of the first
American army officers there.
"When we landed we lived in an old Span
ish palace," she said, "which of course we pro
ceeded to clean. That was the first thing all
Americans did on landing. We took eleven
army dump-cart loads from the palace of every
kind of dirt conceivable. Then we began wash
ing windows and mirrors and lamps, which I
am sure had never been touched with water
before. The servants were so amazed that they
were of very little use. They were mostly
Chinese, and had never seen white women work
before. The sight of such energy staggered

314 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
them. Just when we got things running
smoothly, father was called home, and our
cleaned house fell to his successor's wife, who
wept and said she had never been put in such
a dirty place.
"It was after this that my real adventures
began. Father McKimmon was opening pub
lic schools, and wanted English taught. So he
went among the army girls and just begged us
to give up a few of our good times and do some
of this work. I didn't see how I could teach
people when I didn't know their language, but
he explained how simple it would be, and we
could learn Spanish at the same time.
"It was fun to work with the Spanish nuns.
They were so interested in us, and their quaint,
old-fashioned methods with the children amused
me constantly. Arms were always folded when
they rose to recite, and it was always ' Servidor
de usted' — at your service — before they could
sit down. The nuns soon became pupils of ours,
too. When the Spanish prisoners liberated by
our men from the Filipinos were brought to
Manila they were quartered in our school for
a hospital. I never saw such starved wrecks.
Many of them — young men — had no teeth left.
"More Americans were arriving on every
transport, and a most delightful society was

Inspecting with Secretary of War 315
forming of army and navy people, government
officials, and naval officers of every nation, in ad
dition to the original Spanish population and
the small colonies of many countries. There
were parties of all kinds, and as we trained our
cooks into our own ways we ventured on dinner
parties. I shall never forget the first dinner I
went to that was cooked in Spanish style.
There was every kind of wine I ever heard of,
but no water. I wanted some, but it was not
to be had. My host apologized for not having
provided any, but no one dared drink the city
supply. We sat down to table at nine and rose
at twelve, and when the men joined us at one
they were all much amazed that I made the move
to go home.
"I left Manila to visit my brother in the
provinces. TraveUng in those days was very
different from what it is now. After leaving
the Manila-Dagupan Eailroad there were no
motors to go up the mountain ; instead of that,
I rode an ancient American horse till I was
tired and burning with the sun. Then my
brother put me in a bull cart, and I sat on the
floor of that till the sun was preferable to the
bumping. I arrived at four in the afternoon
and was put down in an empty room with my
trunk and a packing box. Being a good army

316 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
girl, that packing box had all the elements of
comfort, but first there was cleaning to be done.
My brother was the commanding officer in that
town, his house being at the corner of the Plaza,
and an outpost. So he sent me a police party —
that is, ten native prisoners and an American
sentry; they were armed with brooms and
buckets. I said, 'Sentry, this room is very
dirty. The Captain sent these men here to
clean it for me.' 'Yes, mam,' said the sentry.
'Well,' I told him, 'I want the ceiling cleaned
first, even the corners ! ' He turned to his gen
tle prisoners with 'Here, hombres, you shinny
up that pole and limpia those corners!' He
didn't know much Spanish, but limpia means
clean, and is the one essential word. I soon un
packed my box and turned it into an organdie-
draped dressing table, after out of it had come
all that made the room livable.
"That night I was sleeping the sleep of the
very tired when I was awakened by a blood
curdling shout, a gun was thrown to the floor,
and a man's voice yelled for help. I simply
froze — I couldn't move hand or foot. The voice
was in the outpost guard room, just under my
own. Of course, I was sure the whole guard
was overpowered and being boloed. I waited
for them to come to me as I lay there. Then

Inspecting with Secretary of War 317
I heard a man's voice call from an up
stairs window, 'What's the matter down there?'
and the answer, 'Number Four had a night
mare, sir — thought there was a goat on his
bunk.' Just as I was going to sleep again I
threw out my hand in my restlessness, and to
my horror, clasped it round a cold, shiny boa-
constrictor. Every large house has one in the
garret to keep down the rats. This time I gave
the scream and sprang out of bed. But no
snake was to be found, and I decided it must
have been the bed post. But what a night that
was!" We reembarked at Legaspi and sailed on to
the island of Samar, which is in the typhoon
belt. Catbalogan is a town which has been vis
ited by very severe typhoons and terrible
plagues, but by very few people. It is a small
place, far away and forgotten, but the island
of Samar is where the massacre of the Ninth In
fantry occurred — the massacre at Balangiga by
the natives in 1902. There were triumphal
arches of bamboo and flowers, and speeches in
the town hall, Governor Forbes speaking in both
English and Spanish. Afterward eight small
boys and girls dressed in red, white and blue
danced for us enchantingly the Charcca and the
Jota, clicking their little heels and snapping

318 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
their little fingers in true Spanish style. De
licious sweetmeats were offered on the veranda,
real native dishes, and we drank cocoanut milk
and ate cocoanut candy, preserves, nuts and
cakes. Two half-Chinese girls who spoke Eng
lish took very good care of us.
As we left we looked out over the sea to the
setting sun and watched a lonely fisherman
standing on a rock throwing his net.
Next morning from the Rizal, we saw across
a stretch of calm water the blue ranges of the
mountains of Bohol. Native bancas glided si
lently about, and a straw-sailed boat drifted
idly round the point, where the picturesque gray
walls of the oldest Spanish fort in the Philip
pines stood guard. Its sentinel houses at the
corners were all moss grown, and pretty pink
flowers were breaking out of the crevices of the
rocks. We landed at Cebu, which is the oldest town
in the Islands, and passed down a street
lined with ancient houses whose second stories
arcaded the sidewalk. They were all in good
condition, in spite of their age, for they were
built of the wonderful hard woods that last for
ever. In fact, Cebu has the look of a new and
prosperous place, for there have been fires
which burnt up many of the ramshackle houses

Inspecting with Secretary of War 319
and gave a chance to widen the streets and re
place the old structures with permanent look
ing buildings. The American government has
done wonders in deepening the harbour and
building a sea wall, behind which concrete ware
houses are going up.
There was a scramble to a review near the
barracks, then another scramble to a reception
at the house of the colonel commanding — a very
nice but hot occasion — and then still another
scramble to the dedication of a really excellent
schoolhouse. A young priest took us to see the famous
idol, the small black infant Christ. We went
to the convent of the Dominicans near the
church, and passed through its pretty, unkempt
court, up a staircase with treads and handrail
richly carved in a wood which was hard as iron,
and black with age. It was handsome work,
such as we had been looking for and hadn't seen
before. In the sacristy, too, and the robing
room, there were screens and paneling with
richly detailed carvings. Passing down the gal
leries of the convent, where we could see some
of the friars at work, we entered the special
chapel where this holy image is kept. Several
doors were taken off a rather gaudily gilded
altar, until at last the little figure was revealed.

320 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Its back was toward the room and it had to be
carefully turned — a small, brown, wooden doll,
all dressed in cloth of gold, and be jeweled like
the Bambino of Eome. It is considered a most
sacred and wonderful heaven-sent idol.1
As we had heard speeches by Filipinos and
head hunters, I was curious to know what the
Chinese would have to say, and that night there
was an opportunity to find out, for we were
invited to a dinner given by the Chinese mer
chants. I quote from the speech made by Mr.
Alfonso Zarata Sy Cip, which was specially
interesting :
' ' The Chinese have traded with these Islands
since long before Confucius and Mencius,"
said Mr. Sy Cip; "and for centuries we have
been coming here and assimilating with the
Filipinos, and to-day we are deeply interested
in the welfare of the country. The Chinese
have been called a nation of traders, the Jews
of the East, but we are more than traders. We
are labourers, artisans, farmers, manufactur
ers, and producers.
i The Santo NiSo of Cebu has a famous rival in the village
of Antipolo where "Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voy
ages" is found. This image was brought to the Islands in
1626 by the Spanish government. It is said the Virgin has
crossed the Pacific eight times to and from Mexico and each
time "calmed a tempest."

Inspecting with Secretary of War 321
"A very large percentage of the growth and
development of the commerce and material in
terests of the Islands is due to the efforts of
our countrymen.
"The infusion of Chinese blood has strength
ened and improved the Filipino people.
"Chinese labour is recognized all over the
world as the best cheap labour in existence.
Since American occupation of these Islands you
have excluded our labour from entering.
Why? Not for the reason that it would tend
to lower the standard of living among Filipino
labourers, because the standard of living among
Chinese labourers in the Philippines is higher
than among the Filipino labourers. Hence the
introduction of Chinese labourers would tend
rather to improve conditions in this regard.
You do not exclude him for the reason that
he works for lower wages than the labourers
of the country, because, on the contrary, the
Chinese labourer in the Philippines receives
higher wages than the native labourer, hence the
introduction of Chinese labourers would tend
rather to improve the condition of the native
labourers as far as wages are concerned. You
do not exclude him for the reason that he will
not become assimilated with the natives of the
country, because centuries of experience have

322 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
shown that Filipinos and Chinese do assim
ilate and readily amalgamate, and the result, as
I have already said, is an improvement of the
Filipino people. If you are excluding Chinese
labourers from the Philippines because of po
litical reasons then I confess such reasons, if
they exist, have been carefully guarded as se
crets from the public.
"Lack of room is not a reason for excluding
Chinese labourers, nor is lack of need for their
services. In the great island of Mindanao
alone it is doubtful if five per cent of the tilla
ble land is under cultivation, and in other places
it is the same. A large part of the rice con
sumed in these Islands is imported from other
countries, yet we have here the finest tropical
climate in the world and the most productive
soil. Let a sufficient number of Chinese labour
ers come into the Philippines and we will guar
antee that in ten years we will be sending rice to
the gates of Pekin and Tokyo."
Toward night we sailed on the Rizal from
Cebu for the land of the Moros. Out in the Sulu
Sea, one felt very near heaven when the sky
turned hazy gray in the afterglow, and the dis
tant islands mauve, only their peaks flaming like
volcanoes from the hidden sun. Then the big
stars came out, like Japanese lanterns, and

Inspecting with Secretary of War 323
left a comet-like trail upon the dancing wa
ters. From their holes below the cabin boys, Ah
Sing and Sing Song, would pop out like slim
white mice with their long black pigtails, with
little cot beds tucked under their arms which
they would place in rows upon the deck. Ah
Sing would say, "Cheih ko koe" (that will do),
and Sing Song would answer, "Hsiao hsin" (be
careful). Later, when the moon rose out of the
sea and the Southern Cross appeared on the
horizon, shadowy forms glided silently up the
companionway. But the silence did not last.
Some one would call to Sing Song in pidgin
English :
"Boy! go catchy whiskey, Tansan; top side,
talky man little more fat!" And some one else
would say to Ah Sing,
"You fool boy, you catchy me one bath."
Ah Sing seemed to understand. He would
wag his head and answer, "You good man, no
talky all the time, makey me sick." And he
would disappear.
At sight of a tall, genial man, the people in
their cots would sing out, "Doctor Heiser 's a
friend of mine, a friend of mine, a friend of
mine," etc. American judges, and Filipino
congressmen and generals were of the company.

324 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Occasionally a whisper, very often a giggle,
sometimes a clinking of glasses, and good night
kisses, were heard, and then the sand man closed
our eyes.

a'A ¦A

O7,

a

CHAPTEE IX
THE MOROS
|N reaching Mindanao, the land of the
Moros, we went ashore at Camp Overton,
where we were met by army officers and
dougherties drawn by teams of six mules.
After a hand-shake at the commanding officer's
home, we were furnished with a big escort of
cavalry and started climbing up, up, among the
hills. Soldiers were hidden in the tall grass
all along the way to make sure that nothing
would happen to "the great White Sultan with
the big Eed Flag," as the Moros called the Sec
retary. Army men could not go out alone, even
in those days, for they were attacked by bands
and killed, principally to get their weapons,
which the Moros were very keen to possess.
The datos, the head men of the Moro tribes,
were allowed to have guns, but none of the other
natives. A storm came up, however, not long
ago on Lake Lanao, at Camp Keithley, and for
fear that his boat would upset, General Wood
had a great deal of ammunition thrown over-
325

326 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
board, which, it was discovered, was subse
quently fished up by the natives.
The Moros are Mohammedan Malays. They
came in their boats from islands further south,
and in 1380 were converted to Islam by an
Arab wise man, Makadum,1 who made his way
to Sulu and Mindanao.
One hears then of Eaja Baginda, who came
from Sumatra in 1450; his daughter married
Abu Bahr, the law giver, who established the
Mohammedan Church and, after his father-in-
law's death, became sultan and founded a dy
nasty. In the old days the Moros were all pi
rates and slave traders. Both Spanish and
American authorities have tried to suppress
slavery, but it still exists. It is said a woman
will bring about forty pesos.
A dato's slaves to-day are well treated, and
form part of the family. A slave, moreover,
has a chance to rise in the social scale, for Pi-
ang, whom we met, was once a slave, but be
came a powerful chief and a friend of the Amer
icans. The ruler of all the Moros is the Sultan of
Sulu, whom we did not see because he was in
Europe at the time we were in the Islands.
It is said that a few years ago he would some-
1 This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.

The Moros 327

times appear in the market on the back of a
slave, with an umbrella held over his head.
Here he would stay while the people kissed his
hands and feet. He may have changed his cus
toms since his trip.
Dampier, who visited the northern islands of
the Philippines, has also left us notes of his
stay on Mindanao, which are still true in the
main. He says:
"The island of Mindanao' is divided into
small states, governed by hostile sultans, the
governor of Mindanao being the most power
ful. The city of Mindanao stood on the banks
of the river, about two miles from the sea. It
was about a mile in length, and winded with
the curve of the river. The houses were built
on posts from fourteen to twenty feet high, and
in the rainy season looked as if built on a lake,
the natives going their different ways in
canoes. The houses are of one story, divided
into several rooms, and entered by a ladder
or stair placed outside. The roofing consists
of palm or palmetto leaves. . . . The floors
of the habitations are of wicker-work or
bamboo. "A singular custom, but which facilitated
intercourse with the natives and vice versa, was
of exchanging names and forming comradeship

328 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
with a native, whose house was thenceforth con
sidered the home of the stranger."
Alimund Din's name stands out in this meager
Moro history beyond all others, for he was the
first and only Christian ruler in this land.
Even before he became a Christian he was a re
former, and suppressed piracy. He not only
coined money but had both an army and a navy,
and lived in such splendour as probably has not
existed since those days, among the Moros.
Alimund Din ruled about the middle of the
eighteenth century, in the time of Philip V of
Spain. In return for ammunition to enable the
Spanish to keep down piracy, he allowed the
Jesuit fathers to enter his country. In time,
however, they caused trouble among the Moros,
and civil war broke out, as Bautilan, a relative
of Alimund Din's, preferred the Mohammedan
religion to the new ideas of the Jesuits. Ali
mund Din and his followers took flight in boats,
and in time reached Manila, where they inter
ceded for Spanish protection. The Spaniards
showered him with presents, gave him a royal
entrance into the city, and finally converted him
to Christianity. Later, he was sent back, es
corted by Spanish ships, but Bautilan 's fleet at
tacked them. As the Spaniards suspected
Alimund Din of becoming a Christian not en-

The Moros 329

tirely for Christianity's sake, they threw him
into prison. The throne was restored to him in
1763 by the English, who occupied this part of
the island for a short time.
The Moros are not supposed to eat meat or
drink wine, although they have been known to
drink whiskey and soda with Americans, as well
as eat pork and beans on occasions. There
are no mosques in this region or holy dancing-
girls (who can do no wrong) but there are
Moro priests or panditas who go from house to
house. They have little education, but some of
them have traveled. It is the custom for a rela
tive of the deceased to watch and protect a Moro
grave for many months. Such a mourner can
sometimes be seen squatting near by under a
yellow umbrella. The Moros have as many
wives as they can afford, but not more than they
can afford, for it is an insult to speak of a man's
wife as "begging bread."
The Moros are smaller than the East Indian
Mohammedans, but are strong and slight, and
have fine features. They appear especially
cruel and determined because their teeth are
black from buyo. In war time, many of the
women fought beside the men, and it is sup
posed to be they who mutilated the Americans
found dead on the field after battle. The peo-

330 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
pie whom we met on the road with their ponies
loaded with hemp seldom smiled and did not
bow, but they looked us straight in the eye, and
there was no touch of sulkiness about them.
It is very difficult to distinguish the men from
the women, as they dress much alike. But you
see few of the latter on the road, for being Mo
hammedans, most of them are kept at home.
They are not veiled like other Moslem women,
except when first married.
The costumes of the Moros differ to such a
degree — and for no reason that I could discover
— that it is difficult to describe them. Many
wear tight trousers, which are something like
those of the Spaniards — so tight that they are
sewn on the men and never come off until worn
out — and are often bright red or yellow in
colour. On the other hand, some wear very
loose, baggy trousers or skirts of different
shades. Indeed, they are the most gaily
dressed people I have ever seen, and their brown
skins set off the vivid yellows and greens and
reds and magentas and purples of which their
trousers and jackets and turbans and handker
chiefs are made. The jackets have a Chinese
appearance. The turbans might be old Aunt
Dinah's of the South. The sashes, which are
woven in the Moro houses, are of silk, bright

The Moros 331

green and dark red being the predominant
colours. They are knotted on one side, gener
ally a kriss or a bolo being held in the knot,
and are tied about the waist so tightly that the
men look almost laced, and perhaps that ac
counts for their womanish appearance.
When the American army first occupied this
region they treated the Moros well and found
them friendly. Take for instance Zamboanga
in the south, an especially interesting region.
When the American soldiers entered, the Span
ish guard left the garrison, and the Spanish
population and the priests followed. The
Americans found outside the town gates a large
barbed wire bird cage, where the Moros had
been compelled to leave their arms before en
tering the town at night, to avoid an uprising.
The government of Zamboanga at this time was
reorganized by the American officers. A Fili
pino presidente was appointed, a dato to head
the Moros, and a Captain Chinese, as he was
called, to manage his people, who were mostly
merchants and pearl fishers.
Mindanao was under a military-civil govern
ment that worked wonders, for in a few years
many of the Moros were brought under control,
and they became loyal Americans, although they
had always been bitter enemies of the Filipinos

332 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
and the Spaniards. They say they have found
the Americans brave, and have not been lied to
by them, and so they seek our protection. Al
though the Moro and the head-hunter are so dif
ferent, they are alike in one respect — if they care
for an official and have confidence in him they
do not want him changed. It is the man they
are willing to obey rather than the government.
Of course, there are thousands of them, fierce as
ever, back in the mountains, and they are still
fanatic and wild. Even among those who are
under control, the greatest care has to be exer
cised, for they have the hatred of the Christian
deep in their hearts, and they may run amuck
at any moment and kill till they are killed ; but
this is a part of their faith, they ask no quarter,
and nothing stops them but death.
Besides the danger of their attack by reli
gious mania they have a great desire for rifles,
as I have said, and they are always "jump
ing" the constabulary, attacking small parties
suddenly from ambush and cutting them down
with their knives, or killing sentries; so that
constant care has to be used, and the sentinels
walk at night in twos, almost back to back, so
as to have eyes on all sides. A few weeks be
fore we arrived there had been several cases of
"jumping."

The Moros 333

An American army officer told me the fights
with the Moros generally occurred on the trails
among the hills ; as the foliage is so thick, it is
easy for the natives to conceal themselves on
either side, sometimes in ditches, and give the
Americans a surprise. For this reason, a drill
was found necessary for single file fighting.
Every other soldier was taught to respond to
the order of one and two. When an attack
was made, the "ones" shot to the right, the
"twos" to the left. This proved successful.
The same officer said the Moros would often use
decoys to lead the troops astray. Seeing fresh
tracks, they would hasten on in pursuit, and
be led away from their supplies, while their
enemy would be left behind to attack them in
the rear. Walking on the mountain trails was
very hard on the soldiers' shoes, and on one of
these expeditions their boots gave out, so they
were obliged to make soles for their shoes
out of boxes and tie them on with leather
straps. Up, up we drove; the clatter of the cavalry
could be heard in front and behind, and the
dougherty, how it did rattle ! It was a pretty
sight to see the party traveling through the trop
ical forests and winding across the green up
lands, with their pennons and the Secretary's

334 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
red flag (which made a great impression on the
natives, we heard), and the wagons rumbling
along, with a rearguard behind and the scouts
in the distance. John, the coloured man,
snapped his whip, and the mules trotted along,
and the air became cooler, and we drove over
a plain where real mountain rice was planted.
Occasionally a Moro shack could be seen in the
distance. At an outpost, where we stopped to change
mules, we saw a beautiful waterfall, perhaps
the loveliest that I had ever seen, called Santa
Maria Cristina. From a greater height than
Niagara it plunged down into a deep valley of
giant trees. It reminded me of a superb water
fall near Seattle.
At last we reached Camp Keithley, on the
mountain plain, a forlorn lot of unpainted
houses with tin roofs and piazzas, but beauti
fully situated, like some station in the Himala
yas. There was splendid mountain scenery
disappearing into the distances, and views of
the ocean far away, and, on the other side, the
great lake of Lanao, an inland sea more than
two thousand feet above the ocean, with impos
ing ranges about. This lake, which has always
been the center of Moro life, is surrounded by
native villages, and the military post is impor-

The Moros 335

tant and much liked by the officers quartered
there. The Secretary, my husband and I were bil
leted on Major Beacom, the commanding offi
cer — Mrs. Dickinson had not felt quite equal
to the trip. The Major's house was very at
tractive, and his little German housekeeper gave
us excellent food and made the orderlies fly
about for our comfort.
We went almost at once to the market place,
which was intensely interesting. The gorgeous
colours and gold buttons of the costumes were
magnificent. Brass bowls for chow were for
sale, and betel-nut boxes inlaid with silver, and
round silver ones with instruments attached
to clean the ears and nose. There are four
compartments in these betel-nut boxes — for
lime, tobacco, the betel nut, and a leaf in which
to wrap the mixture called buyo.
Here we saw the spear and shield dance.
The dancer had a headdress that covered his
forehead and ears, making him look quite
ridiculous, absolutely as though he were on the
comic opera stage. With shield and spear he
danced as swiftly and silently as a cat, creep
ing and springing until your blood ran cold,
especially as you knew he had killed many a
man.

336 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
In the afternoon, after reviewing the troops
and inspecting the quarters, we crossed a cor
ner of the lake and landed at a Moro village.
It was raining hard and the mud was deep. We
waded through a street, followed by the people
in their best clothes — one in a black velvet suit,
another in a violet velvet jacket. I saw only
two women in the streets ; they were not veiled
nor brilliantly dressed, but had red painted lips
and henna on their nails. The Moro constabu
lary here wore red fezzes and khaki, and the
officer in command at the time was of German
birth. After we had passed through a bamboo trail,
we came into a little open place with three fine
Moro houses about, set up above the ground on
great posts made of tree trunks. Unlike Fili
pino houses, they had facades all carved in a
rough and handsome sort of arabesque, painted
in bright reds and blues, and with pointed roofs
and coloured cloths fluttering out of the open
spaces, they made fine effects. The long cracks
in the walls served as peepholes, where the snap
ping black eyes of the many wives of the datos
were peering out at us. In front, in the little
green space, pennons were planted and there
was a huge Chinese-looking sea serpent, or
dragon, on wheels, with a body of gaily coloured

A MORO DATO'S HOUSE.

The Moros 337

stuffs, and a rearing movable head. This ca
vorted about in time to the endless noise of the
tom-toms. A crowd of natives stood round in
their fanciful raiment.
Into one of these houses we were invited.
We mounted the ladder to the one large room
in the front, into which the sliding panel shut
ters admitted the air freely, so that it was cool
and shaded. Here sat the wives and the slaves
in a corner, playing on a long wooden instru
ment with brass pans, which they struck, pro
ducing high and low sounds, with a little more
tune than the Igorots. The big room was bare,
except for a long shelf on which was some woven
cloth and a fine collection of the native brass
work, for this is the center of the brass-workers.
We moved on through the little town of nipa
houses to visit old Dato Manilibang, whose
house was not as fine as those we had seen be
fore, but where we were admitted into two
rooms. From the entrance we streaked muddy
feet across the bamboo-slatted floor into his re
ception room, where a sort of divan occupied
one side — on which the Secretary was asked to
sit. Behind this cushioned seat were piled the
boxes with the chief's possessions, and here he
sits in state in the daytime and sleeps at night.
The women, who were huddled together on one

338 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
side of the room, wore bracelets and rings, and
one was rather pretty.
At dawn we were up and off again. What a
day! We had two hours on a boat crossing a
lovely lake, surrounded by mountains, on the
shore of which some of the wildest Moros live.
Our boat was a big launch, a sort of gunboat,
which, strangely enough, the Spaniards had
brought up here and sunk in the lake when the
war came on, we were told, and which had been
resurrected successfully. It was a steep climb
up the opposite side of the lake, but most of
us scrambled up on horses, till we topped the
ridge and came to Camp Vickers, a station with
fine air and outlook but rather small and pa
thetic. The picturesque Moros had gathered here to
greet the Secretary, and their wail of welcome
was something strange and weird. A dato
would come swinging by, followed in single file
by his betel-box carrier, chow bearer and slaves.
Some of the chiefs rode scraggly ponies, on high
saddles, with their big toes in stirrups of cord
almost up under their chins, and with bells on
the harness that rattled gaily. And, of course,
the tom-toms kept up their endless music.
We had two more hours of horseback riding
— we hoped to see a boar hunt, but owing to

BAGOUO MAX WITH POINTED TEETH.

The Moros 339

some misunderstanding, it did not come off.
Then, after a stand-up luncheon at Major
Brown's, we started down the trail again in a
dougherty. It was a beautiful drive through this forest
on the island of Mindanao. We first crossed
open grassy uplands, then dipped down through
the great glades of the most tropical forest
I have ever seen, with towering hard woods
and tree ferns, with bamboos and clinging air
plants and orchids, and there was mystery and
wonder about the giant growths. The trees
seemed taller than the elms of New England
or the cedars of Oregon. They dripped with
huge-leaved, clinging vines, which grew hig
gledy-piggledy, covering everything. The
grass, too, with waving purple tassels, grew
higher than a man's head, twice as high as the
pigmy brown people who have their houses in
these trees.
The tree-dwellers just referred to are the
Manobos and the Bagobos with pointed teeth
—for Mindanao is not entirely inhabited by
Moros; there are supposed to be no less than
twenty-four tribes on this island alone. They
build in trees, to escape the spear thrusts of
their neighbours through the bamboo floors.
We were to make their acquaintance later.

340 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
A drenching rain came on that afternoon,
through which the escort jogged along, while we
clung in our dougherties, nearly shaken to
pieces, and reached Malabang, on the other side
of the island, as much fatigued as if we had been
on horseback all the way. The military post
here was most attractive, with the prettiest of
nipa houses for the officers, and the parade
lined with shading palms, and flower-bordered
walks — a charming station. We were quar
tered with Lieutenant Barry and his wife, a
delightful young couple, in their thatched house,
and dined with Major Sargent, the commanding
officer, who has written some good books on mil
itary topics.
The Celebes Sea was calm and lovely when we
left Malabang. We passed along the coast of
Mindanao toward a long lowland that lay be
tween the .high mountains of the island. This
was the plain of the Cotobato, a great river
which overflows its banks annually like the Nile
and has formed a fertile valley that could be
turned to good account. The mouth of the river
is shallow, so that we were transferred to a
stern- wheel boat that was waiting, and began to
work our way up, against the rapid current, past
low, uninteresting banks that were proving

The Moros 341

rather monotonous, when suddenly we turned a
point and saw the town of Cotobato.
The Moros and the other tribes were in their
full splendour here. Soon, down this tropical
river, where crocodiles dozed and monkeys chat
tered and paroquets shrieked, there came a flo
tilla from the Arabian Nights, manned by galley
slaves. On the masts and poles of one of the
barges floated banners, and under the canopy
of green sat a real Princess. Some of the boats
were only dugouts with outriggers, but they
were decorated, too, and all the tribes were
dressed in silks and velvets of the brightest
colours. There was great excitement and much cheer
ing as we approached the landing stage, and the
troops stood at attention, while the rest of the
shore was alive with the throng of natives in
all the colours of the rainbow. The Secretary
inspected the troops, and we saw for the first
time the Moro constabulary, wearing turbans
and sashes, but with bare legs; nevertheless,
they looked very dashing. Indeed, the Moros
were so different in character and appearance
from any people we had seen before that they
might as well have come down from the stars.
The Secretary was taken to meet the datos,

342 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
as they stood in line beneath the great trees,
with the motley crowds of retainers behind
them, in such a medley of colours as I had
never imagined before. The sunlight filtered
through the trees upon the barbaric costumes,
while the gaily dressed women stood behind
the men and peered over them. The brown
men looked dignified and very self-respecting,
too, although the scene was like the setting of
a comic opera, where the imagination had been
allowed to run riot.
There we saw Dato Piang and Gimbungen,
a very fat dato — what a delightful bug-a-boo
name — also Ynock, whose ear had been cut
off in a fight, We were told ; but strange as' it
may seem, he said he had clapped it onto his
face again and tied it on, and it had grown
there. So it hung attached somewhere down
on his cheek, and gave him a very peculiar ap
pearance. When the Moros conquered the Fili
pinos, this dato had the captured women
stripped and made to walk before him, and then
took them off to the mountains. When he was
taken prisoner later by the Filipinos, he was
compelled to work in chains in the streets.
Under a canopy the Princess received us, a
native woman whose descent was traced for
many hundreds of years — said to be a pure

The Moros 343

Moro, although she looked rather Chinese —
and who was recognized as of the highest social
superiority, but had little political power. She
herself was draped in varied colours, while her
chamberlain wore a brocade coat of crimson and
gold cloth. Behind her stood her maids bearing
the gold betel-nut boxes and chow trays and um
brellas of her rank.
Our luncheon with the commanding officer,
Major Heiberg, and his wife, was eaten in de
lightful little kiosks of nipa and bamboo, which
had been built in a small palm grove. The
¦ dancing girls of the Princess, who had long nails
protected by silver covers, gave us a perform
ance afterward. Curiously enough, their dance
was very Japanese in character. Then some
Manobos, picturesque in short, skin-tight trou
sers and bolero jackets, with bags and boxes
beautifully worked in bright beads, danced a
graceful, monotonous step. The women have
a swaying, snake-like dance with waving arms
and jingling of bracelets and "hiplets," if I
may be allowed to coin the word.
At last, after so many adventures, we found
ourselves again on board the Rizal. An en
chanting spot on this boat was a projection
over the bow, on which one could sit curled up
high above the water. On this perch we felt

344 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
like the red-winged sea gulls that circled far
above us. We passed over a sea of polished
jade, which at night shone with phosphorescence
like gleaming silver.
Next morning, August 23d, we approached
Zamboanga. Five American ships, all deco
rated, came steaming out to meet us and fell
in behind in order, making a lovely sight on
the bright, smooth seas. As we neared the
town, we suddenly saw a large flotilla of native
boats, with tom-toms beating and thousands of
flags fluttering — such a gay sight! Banners of
all shapes, streaming and flapping and waving,
and such colours and combinations of colours —
stripes of green and purple and orange in de
signs of lemon and red and magenta, serpen
tine flags and square ones, hung in all sorts of
ways, and brightly coloured canopies under
which sat the sultans, and green umbrellas and
yellow and — bang! off went their small lan
tankas, tiny native-made cannon — a most excit
ing reception !
We landed under triumphal arches and were
driven in state carriages through lines of school
children, who sang and threw us flowers from
old Spanish gardens. The post was really
beautiful, for it had much left from old Spanish
times, and what had been done over had been

BAGOBOS WITH MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.

The Moros 345

done with taste. The green parade had a ter
raced canal passing through it, and avenues of
palm; the officers' quarters, smothered in
flowering plants and fronting out over the glit
tering blue sea, were large and airy and finer
than any we had seen before. It is considered
one of the best posts in the Philippines, and
seemed cool and pleasant.
There was the usual procession — first, the
troops of the garrison and the constabulary,
then thousands of visiting Moros, Bagobos and
Manobos, of every colour of skin and clothes,
many of them whooping and leaping, and then
a tiresome following of hundreds of Filipinos,
who had joined in to make a political demon
stration. It is said the Filipinos did not wish
the Moros to take part in the procession.
Exciting times followed at the meeting after
this parade, where both Filipino and Moro
speakers were heard. Said a Filipino, address
ing the Secretary :
"You have just visited our province and have
just learned its conditions; at such places in
it through which you have passed you must
have seen quite a number of Moros, but I be
lieve that a separation . . . could very well be
established, to the end that both people, the
Christian Filipino and the Filipino Moro, might

346 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
have the. government that corresponds respec
tively to each of them, for it is a very regret
table thing that on account of the presence of
the latter we Christians should be unable to en
joy the liberties that reason and right would
grant us. . . .
"I think it is my duty to advise you that
the Moros who filed past the grandstand were
brought from remote and distant places with
the exclusive purpose of giving greater eclat
to your reception. Moreover, it must be borne
in mind always, in dealing with the affairs of
this province, that the Moros have no political
influence, possess no property, nor help pay the
expense of the government."
Then Dato Mandi spoke :
"I am here, El Eaja Mura Mandi, repre
senting the Moros. As I look about, I see far
more Moros than the Filipino contingent, and
if that is so, that is the reason it is called the
Moro Province. (Tremendous applause from
the Moros.)
"When first the Americans came here, from
the very beginning, whatever they asked me to
do I did. I was loyal to them ever. Now I
have heard a rumour that we Moros are in the
hands of the Filipinos. . . .
"If the American Government does not want

The Moros 347

the Moro Province any more they should give
it back to us. It is a Moro province. It be
longs to us." (Tremendous applause by the
Moros.) Dato Sacaluran threw down the Moro chal
lenge :
"I am an old man. I do not want any more
trouble. But if it should come to that, that we
shall be given over to the Filipinos, I still would
fight. ' ' (Applause. )
But Hadji Nangnui, who spoke of himself as
"a Samal," made the clearest statement of the
Moro position:
"The Secretary of War must look the mat
ter in the face. We are a different race; we
have a different religion; we are Mohammed
ans. And if we should be given over to the
Filipinos, how much more would they treat us
badly, than they treated even the Spanish badly
who were their own mothers and their own fa
thers in generations? How did they treat
them? Think about it! Think twice! We far
prefer to be in the hands of the Americans, who
are father and mother to us now, than to be
turned over to another people." (Applause.)
In the evening we dined delightfully at the
Persuings'. After dinner, the Moros danced in
the garden the spear and shield dance, and the

348 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Bagobo women gave the scarf dance. The
Bagobos still offer human sacrifices. Their
caps, if tied in a certain way, show how many
men they have killed. Their dress is made of
cloth which they weave from carefully selected
and dyed fibers of Manila hemp, and it is treated
with wax in such a way as to make it very
smooth and durable. In the glow of the red
light from Chino Charlie's famous lanterns,
their picturesque costumes, gleaming with bead
work, added much to the brilliancy of the scene.
They love music and make some large stringed
instruments. They also play the flute from the
nose, with one nostril stopped up, like the
Hawaiians. The dancing under the palms in the garden,
by the rippling seas, where the moonlight
flooded down radiantly, was quite like a strange
dream. At this dinner I was told the story given by
Dean Worcester by which the Moros explain
why they do not eat pork :
"Mahamoud had a grandson and a grand
daughter. ... As he was king of the world,
Christ came to his house to visit him. Ma
hamoud, jealous of him, told him to prove his
power by 'divining' what he had in a certain
room, where, in fact, were his grandchildren.

BAGOBO WITH NOSE FLUTE.

 The Moros  349
Christ replied that he had no wish to prove his
power, and would not 'divine.' Mahamoud
then vowed that if he did not answer correctly,
he should pay for it with his life. Christ re
sponded, 'You have two animals in there, differ
ent from anything else in the world.' Maha
moud replied, 'No, you are wrong, and I will
now kill you.' Christ said, 'Look first, and see
for yourself. ' Mahamoud opened the door, and
out rushed two hogs, into which Christ had
changed his grandchildren."
Some verses recited at General Pershing's
dinner showed the feeling of army officers about
their life in the Philippines. A stanza runs :
"What is it makes us fret so hard
In this benighted land?
It isn't lack of courage
And it isn't lack of 'sand.'
It isn't fear of Moros
Or Bagobos from the hills —
It's the many great discomforts
And the many, many ills."
It is interesting to read in a recent number
of the Manila Times that Zamboanga, which
seemed so like a picture handed down from
Spanish days, has absorbed a good share of
American progressiveness and is said to stand
in a class by itself among Philippine towns.

350 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Waterworks and a hydro-electric plant are un
der construction, the water for which is to be
brought along the mountainside, a part of the
way through tunnels. To dig these, "experi
enced Igorot tunnel makers from Benguet were
imported," who are getting along amicably with
the Moros.
At Jolo, or Sulu, we were again greeted by a
Moro fleet and some diving girls and boys.
This seemed the culmination of the pictur
esque in our trip. The mountains of the island
are not high but rather cone-shaped, and as
we approached the town we could see behind
it the forested slopes of steep Bud Dajo, where
the great fight took place in 1906 and many
Moros were killed in the crater top of the vol
cano, to which they had retreated, and from
which they challenged and threatened the Amer
ican forces. It is an island of fierce, piratical
Moros, and even the Americans had not tried
to do much there. It was dangerous to go out
side the little walled town at all, and all the na
tives coming in were searched for their weap
ons, which were taken away at the gates.
Only a few months before, a fanatic Moro tried
to attack the gate guard, but fortunately was
killed before fatally injuring any one.
The walled town is a most artistic little Span-

The Moros 351

ish place, built once upon a time by the exiled
Spanish Governor Asturia, who made it a gem
of a town, with small balustraded plazas and
a hanging-garden sea wall, and a miniature wall
with battlements and gates, and streets set out
with shading trees. The pretty Officers' Club
and quarters overhung the wall. The gates of
the town are closed at night, and all the natives
must leave for their houses outside before the
"retreat," but there is a native market and a
town built out on piles over the water, which we
visited. We drove out to a plain, palm-fringed
and backed by mountains, that overlooked the
sea, where there was a review of the cavalry and
a large company of mounted Moros, who car
ried many American flags among their waving
banners. Within the walls, in a grandstand in
the little plaza, where the natives thronged,
there was a meeting between the Secretary and
the chief datos; and the Hadji, who had been
Vizier of the Sultan, made a wise speech, full of
promise of loyalty. Our Governor had won the
good will of the people about him and the Hadji
said that when his people were certain of our
good intentions they would come in willingly
and be loyal — but, for so many years, they had
been misled by previous rulers.
We amused ourselves by going to Chino

352 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
Charlie's and buying lanterns, and lunched at
the Officers' Club. Afterward we went out on
the pier inhabited by the Chinese and looked
for pearls — Jolo pearls are famous — but we saw
none of real value. We watched the Chinamen
drying copra, and went through their market,
where water slugs were for sale. Finally, we
sailed across the bay. Our visit to the Moros
was full of colour to the end, for the sun was
setting gorgeously as we put out to sea.

CHAPTEE X
journey's end
?>HE little coral island of Bancoran lies in
the middle of the Sulu Sea, quite outside
the usual routes of travel. It is inhab
ited only by birds, and people seldom or never
go there. But we wanted to obtain, if we could,
some new species of gulls or terns for the
Bureau of Science at Manila, and also to en
joy the mysterious sea gardens which are
found among the southern reefs. Just after
tiffin the island was sighted, lying quite alone
by itself in milky green water. The ship
stopped and launches were dropped overboard,
and a glass-bottomed boat which had been
brought along for our use.
The afternoon was ideal — the sky blue and
fleeced with snowy clouds piled high, while the
intense sun shining on the water flashed back
a hundred shades of blue and green and mauve.
On one side of the island, which floated like an
emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks
chafed the seas into foaming surf, while on the
353

354 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
other a long, narrow beach lay shimmering, pale
yellow in the sunlight. The island itself was
covered with a thick jungle of trees, which were
dotted with thousands of resting birds. As we
drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, ris
ing and soaring and circling in the clear, pure
air, and crying out at us. Flock after flock of
sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft,
their white breasts tinted green with the light
reflected from the water.
It was like a Eobinson Crusoe island, lost
out there in the lonely sea. But there were
shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which
suggested that sometime a feast must have
been held there, so it was not wholly undiscov
ered and unexplored. Among the great roots
of the trees the birds had built their nests from
leaves. The eggs in some of them were white
and about the size of hens' eggs. Several va
rieties of boobies and terns were found, some
brown with green-blue eyes, others ivory-white.
A few specimens were shot, and one or two
were taken back alive to the Rizal for the mu
seum. Previous to this visit the ornithologists
had never known to what islands the boobies and
frigate birds came to nest, although the scien
tists had long been searching for the place, so
the expedition was well worth while.

Journey's End 355
But the sea gardens interested me more than
the birds or even the island. If Alice could
have had her choice in entering Wonderland,
she would surely have selected a doorway lead
ing through a glass-bottomed boat, instead of
dropping down a rabbit's hole. Beneath the
water, which was crystal clear, we could see a
strange country with new flowers and peculiar
creatures. Where it was sandy and shallow
we saw below us fields of green sea grass, on
which the fairies must surely have used lawn-
mowers, it was so neatly kept.
Interspersed among the fields were beds of
feathery, lace-like vegetation unnamed in the
language of our party. Passing one expanse
after another of this submarine pasturage, we
saw depressions in the coral, where tiny fishes
played or unknown water creatures had estab
lished a little world for themselves and were
living in its narrow confines quite unconscious
of what went on in the surrounding vastness.
Drifting on into deeper water, we came to a
ghost-like gray world of curls and feathers,
trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and
swaying brown ones, of high hills and dark val
leys, made by coral reefs. Pretty rock gar
dens came into view, where there were cab
bages with blue edges, sea anemones and pur-

356 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
pie fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus, and
a cactus plant — at least, that is what they
looked like to us. There were rainbow shells,
too, half hidden, and great blue starfish cling
ing to the rocks. In and out among the sponges
and the brown coral branches, which were so
much like antlers, swam curious fishes. Such
gorgeous colours — so vivid and in such brilliant
combinations! Some were big green fellows,
with needle noses ; others were electric blue and
silver; there were black and yellow ones, too,
i Worcester writes in regard to fishing: "There are bar
racudas of seven different species, some of which attain a
length of six feet and weigh a hundred pounds or more.
Bonitos of four different species have been taken, and afford
fine sport. Croakers and groupers (locally known as lapu-
lapu) are found in great variety. Hardtails and leather-
jacks, commonly called dorados, are also very abundant. They
take the spoon freely and fight well. There are also several
species of mackerel and pampamo, which are excellent table
fish; and snappers, of which we have thirty-four known
species. The large red snappers fight well. Sea-bass of two
distinct species are common. Specimens weighing fifty to
seventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets. The
largest specimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed
three hundred thirty-four and a fourth pounds.
"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during
the cooler months. Tarpons up to five feet in length may be
taken at the proper season, off the mouths of large streams.
The species are distinct from that found in Atlantic waters,
and the young take the fly freely.
"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools
during the winter months. The natives call them cachareta."

wCOM

D H
dd?!
O

Journey's End 357
and striped fishes that looked hke sly prisoners
dodging their keepers.1
We passed the greater part of the afternoon
marooned on this far-away island, some of us
going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in
the clear water. As evening came on we re
gretfully left the fairy island of Ban cor an, and
sailed away by the rising moon.
The Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have
described in another chapter, was our next
point of interest. We left there behind sched
ule and met a stronger current than we had
expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay,
so that it was no wonder that we were late in
approaching Iloilo. This was especially un
fortunate, for very generous preparations had
been made there for the Secretary's reception
and an interesting series of events arranged,
all of which was upset by the delay.
• It was sunset when we finally sighted the
town. As we cruised up the steeply palisaded
coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay
on the other side, backed by its fine ranges of
mountains, the effects were most beautiful.
The old Spanish fort on its point looked mys
terious in the afterglow, and the skies were
magnificently alight. A fleet of much beflagged
launches and steamers came out to meet the Sec-

358 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
retary, whistling a welcome, and turning, es
corted the Rizal.
Next to Manila, Iloilo is the most important
port in the Islands, and has a better climate
than its rival. The people here are supposed
to be wealthier and more aristocratic than else
where. The Payne bill, which had been in op
eration only a short time, had brought such a
return of prosperity to the land, and especially
to the planters of this fertile province, that
they were all very enthusiastic about Ameri
cans, and did all they could to express their
gratitude. We were invited for dinner at half after
seven, but it was an hour later before we sat
down to the long table in the large and rather
empty room, with its handsome Venetian mir
rors at either end, and its sliding shutters wide
open to the night. There were no ladies present
except those of our party. We could never tell
how things would be arranged, — sometimes
there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes
there would not ; sometimes the ladies would all
be placed together at one side of the table, and
again they would be seated next to the men.
While waiting for dinner to be announced, we
sat about in an airy room, with half-dressed

 Journey's End  359
servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph
playing Caruso records.
After dinner we had a long drive out through
the town, which seemed quite business-like and
prosperous. They had rebuilt some of the fine,
large, wide-open houses, most of which had been
destroyed by the insurrectos. (On the nearby
island of Negros, we were told, there were many
fine haciendas with great houses full of carved
work which I was sorry not to see.) Passing
through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on
their stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza
gaily illuminated, and to our destination, a man
sion approached by a triumphal arch. In the
best houses the living rooms are on the second
floor, just as in the poorer ones they are raised
above the ground on stilts. So here we went up
stairs to a great room hung with festoons of
flags, where the little women in their bright and
varied dresses passing and repassing made a
gay scene. It was here, indeed, that we saw
some of the prettiest and best dressed women
whom we met on our trip.
Most of the following day was spent cruising
along the coast of Panay, passing between its
fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the
Inland Sea of Japan. In the afternoon we came

360 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
to the entrance of the river on which Capiz is
located. The Secretary crossed overland on the
first train to run on the new railway, in order to
drive in the silver spikes that completed the
line. No dinners had been planned there for those
of us who had come by ship, so we did not start
up river until half after eight. Capiz is only
four miles from the mouth, but they were the
longest miles we had ever experienced, for by
some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we
went in a Rizal launch without one. We just
struggled along as well as we could in the dark
till the moon came up, which only mystified us
the more with its deceptive shadows. Half a
dozen times we ran deep into mud banks, and
the sailormen were forced to jump overboard
and shove us off. They did not appear to en
joy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a
crocodile river.
Swarms of fireflies, which gathered on favour
ite trees, made a very Christmas-like effect with
their throbbing lights. They were lovely, too,
in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling
reflections in the black river stream. Watch
ing them we could almost forget our troubles.
Finally, after much winding round and back
ing off, we turned a bend and saw a line of httle

HO

pHic

Journey's End 361
twinkling lights strung along the shore and on
floating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect
and showing us the town by their reflection.
Landing, we walked across the grassy square to
the provincial building, with its open court
yards, where there was to be a ball. We danced
a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the
Governor General, who liked to show his inter
est in these functions, of which the Filipinos
think so much. There were three bands, which
vied with each other for applause.
Next morning we got away early on our last
leg for Manila and the end of our never-to-be-
forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm
— that far-away, unf amiliar country where your
head gets full of strange thoughts, your body of
queer feelings, and your heart has great long
ings. We crowded everything we could into those
few last days in Manila, for we were loath to
think of leaving anything undone. Besides
packing and shopping, there were teas and din
ners, and the army and navy reception. This
was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled
with trees which were hung with dim lanterns.
The good looking officers with their white duck
uniforms and brass buttons added to the at
tractiveness of the scene. The men of our party

362 The Spell of Our Pacific Islands
were even busier than we, for they had several
banquets to which we were not invited. In my
husband's journal I find the chronicle of a typi
cal day. After describing the events of a busy
morning, he says : "In the afternoon, there was
a reception to meet the constabulary, at four;
the opening of the new hospital, a most complete
and wonderful one, at half after four; the lay
ing of the corner stone at five for the new hotel,
which is a very ambitious project and will make
all the difference in the world as far as touring
in the Philippines is concerned ; in the evening,
a dinner, and after that a reception, and a
dance. ' '
Manila seemed more picturesque, and to have
even more atmosphere, as I came to know it
better. The old walls and churches and plazas
and corners and quarters; the Pasig with its
cascos and bancas plying about; the narrow
streets winding through the suburbs, with old
moss-covered walls, and peeps of tangled gar
dens within, and balustraded terraces, and the
bowers of the pink blossoming "chain of love."
It is indeed well-named the Pearl of the Orient.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Atkinson, F. W.; The Philippine Islands
Alexander, Mary C: The Story of Hawaii
Alexander, W. D.: Brief History of the Hawaiian People
American Girl, An: Seven Weeks in Hawaii
Bancroft, Hubert H.: The New Pacific
Bbiggs, Charles W. : Progressive Philippines
Blaib, Emma H.: The Philippine Islands
Barron, David : History of the Philippines
Bishop, Isabella L.: The Hawaiian Archipelago
Blackman, William F.: The Making of Hawaii
Coan, Titus : Life in Hawaii
Coan, T. JI.: Climate of Hawaii
— Hawaiian Ethnography
Castle, William R., Jb. : Hawaii Past and Present
Chambers, H. E.; Constitutional History of Hawaii
Crow, Carl: America and the Philippines
Chambeblin, Frederick: The Philippine Problem
Dauncey, Mrs. Campbell: The Philippines
Devens, John B.: An Observer in the Philippines
Day, Mrs. E. F.; Princess of Manoa
Emerson, N. B. : Unwritten Literature of Hawaii
Fee, Mary H. : A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines
Foreman, J.: The Philippine Islands
Fornander, Abbaham: The Polynesian Race
Hawaiian Annual for 1915
Hawaiian Islands, Report of Commission of Agriculture and
Forestry
Hawaii, a Primer — answers to queries
Hitchcock, C. H.: Hawaii and its Volcanoes
Jebnegan, Peescott F. : A Short History of the Philippines
Jordan and Edermann: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii
Library op Congress: List of books on Hawaii
363

364 Bibliography

Lindsey, Forbes: The Philippines
Le Roy, James A.: Philippine Life in Town and Country
— Americans in the Philippines
Lawrence, Maby S. : Old Time Hawaiians and their Work
Lyman, H. M. : Hawaiian Yesterdays
Moses, Mbs. M. E. B. ; Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife
Maus, L. M. : An Army Officer on Leave in Japan
Musick, John R. : Hawaii: our New Possession
Mather, Helen: One Summer in Hawaii
Robinson, Albert G. : The War and the People
Stoddard, C. W.: South-sea Idyls
Sawyer, Frederick H. ; The Inhabitants of the Philippines
Stevens, J. E.: Yesterdays in the Philippines
Taft, Mrs. William H. ; Recollections of Full Years
Westervelt, W. E.: Legends of Old Honolulu
Worcester, Dean C: The Philippines, Past and Present
Williams, D. R.: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission
Young, Lucien: The Real Hawaii

INDEX

Agriculture and Forestry,
Bureau of, 99
Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-
175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-
196, 199, 204
Aldecoa and Company, 265
Alden, C. S. (quoted), 71
Alexander Young Hotel, 20
Amburayan, 270
Anderson, General Thomas, 72,
145, 180, 187, 192
Captain Tom, 145, 296
Andrews, Louis, 62
Antipolo, 320
Apayao, 270
Archbishop of Manila, 166
Armstrong, Fort, 25
General, 62
Army and Navy Club, 146, 296
Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-
217, 236
Asturia, Governor, 351
Atimonan, 307, 308
Augustinian Church, 129

B
Babuyan Islands, the, 261
Baginda, Raja, 326
Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345,
348

Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251,
253, 272
Bahr, Abu, 326
Balangiga, 317
Balintan Channel, 268
Bancoran, 353, 357
Bandholtz, General, 309
Barry, Lieutenant, 340
Bashee Rocks, 261, 262
Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264,
269
Bates, General, 198
Bauang, 247
Bautilan, 328
Bay, Lake of, 131
Beacom, Major, 335
Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs.,
16
Benguet, 270
Road, 247, 249
Berger, Captain, 14, 74
Biacnabato, 174
Treaty of, 175
Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241,
242, 313
Bill of Rights, 58
Bingham, Hiram, 10
Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72
Hon. Charles R., 12
Museum, 11
Black Crook, 249
Blayney, Professor Thomas
Lindsey (quoted), 220
Boca Chica, 123
Boca Grande, 178

365

366

Index

Bohol, 318

Chino Charlie, 352

Boki, Chief, 10

Cleghorn, Governor,- 15

Bolinao Light, 274

Cleveland, President, 77

Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174

College of Medicine and Sur

Bontoe, 229, 236, 270, 287-289

gery, 141

Book, Captain, 16

Commission, the (first), 207

Botel Tobago, 262

Commission, the second (or

Brent, Bishop, 132

Taft), 207, 209-211, 215,

Brigham, Professor, 11

216, 219

Britannia, the, 51

Constabulary Band, 125, 137

Bryan, Wilham Jennings, 199,

Cook, Captain (James), 35,

206-207

37,48,49,114,115,150

Bud Dajo, 350

Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296

Buencamino, 183

Cotobato (river), 340

town, 341

Cotton, Captain, 16

Cromer, Lord, 221

C

Crook, the, 273, 274

Culion, 232-235
Cagayan, 131
Calkins, Mr., 309
Capiz, 360
Carter, General W. H., 26
Charles L., 78
D
George R., 78, 79
Mr. George, 5
Dalupiri, 265
Castle, Mr., 4, 14, 112
Damien, Father, 72
Mrs., 14
Dampier, William, 152, 262,
Castilla, the, 179
327
Catbalogan, 317
Darrach, Marshall, 139
Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179,
Data, Mount, 285
181, 182, 204
Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22
Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322
Davis, Isaac, 50
Celebes Sea, 340
DeRussy, Fort, 25
Cervantes, 283, 284
Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184,
Charcca, the, 317
186, 192
Charleston, the, 269
(quoted), 190
Chinese, the (in the Philip
Dewey, the (dock), 273
pines), 159
Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25
Index

367

Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of
War), 20, 125, 126, 127,
131, 136, 139, 145, 146,
232, 252, 272, 273, 277,
278, 279, 295, 299, 325,
337, 341
Mrs., 125, 127, 136, 139,
140, 145, 251, 252, 308,
336
Din, Alimund, 328
Ditch Trail, 107
Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8
Sanford B., 8, 9, 16, 77-79
Dominis, John C, 76
Doyle, Sergeant, 278
Drake, Sir Francis, 151
Duvall, General, 146, 273
Mrs., 146

E
Early, 275
Education, Bureau of, 248
Edwards, General, 131, 272,
300
El Chico de Cagayan River,
287
El Fraile, 178
Emerson (quoted), 42
Emma, Queen, 65, 66
Escolta, the, 130
Ethnology, Bureau of, 141

"Father Alexander," 106
"Filipino Republic," the, 190

Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171,
183, 185-189, 193, 195-
196, 201, 215, 219, 222,
241, 245. 298, 342
Finch, Captain, 3
Forbes, Governor General
Cameron, 125, 127, 131,
139, 212-215, 221, 239,
243, 248, 272, 276, 277,
283, 317, 361
Fornander, A. (quoted), 42
Frear, Judge Walter F., 80
French Frigatis Shoal, 66
Funston (General), 25, 199
Furness, Dr., 4 G
Gallman, 275, 280
Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254
Gimbungen (dato), 342
Government Dormitory for
Girls, 140
Government Laboratories,
Bureau of, 141
Green Lake, 112
Gridley, Captain, 3, 179
Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262

Halawa, 63
Haleakala, 107
Halemaumau, 60, 110
Hanalei River, 115
Harrison, Governor General,
212, 213, 219

368

Index

Hauula, 103

Iraya, Mt., 269

Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82

Irwin, Mr., 4

Republic of, 78

Isabella II, Queen, 164

Hawaiian Commercial Sugar

Isola Grande, 273, 274

Company, 81

Itbayat Island, 265

Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29

Iwahig River, 240

Heiberg, Major, 343

Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156

Heiser, Dr., 221, 230-232, 234-

236, 323

Hilgard, Captain, 251

Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110,

J

112

Hina, 35
Japanese-American Citizens'
Hoapili, 62
Association, 116
Honaunau, 113
Japanese (women laborers),
Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21,
83-85
25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103,
as Hawaiians, 116-118
104, 181
Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166
Hualalai, 113
John Hay, Camp, 248, 251
Jones Bill, the, 222
I
Jota, the, 317
lao Valley, 107
Ide, H. C, 208
K
Ifugao, 270
Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-
Kaawaloa, 114
283, 289, 293
Kahanamoku, Duke, 91
Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277,
Kahului, 102
286, 288-290, 294, 337
Kailua, 53, 114
Uocanos, the, 275
Kaiulani, Princess, 77
Iloilo, 357-358
Kakuhihewa, 6
Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259
Kalaimoku, 56
Immigration, Bureau of, 100 1
Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81,
Inter-Island Navigation Com
118
pany, 104
Prince, 118
boats, 112
Kalamba, 131, 204
Internal Revenue, Bureau of,
Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah
221
Kuhio, 79
Index 369

Kalanikupule, 22

L

Kalinga, 270

Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-

Lackawanna, the, 66, 67,

68,

292 |

70,71

Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103
Ladrone Islands, the, 116,
150
Kamehameha I (the Great),
Lahaina, 106
6,11,22,48,50-54,106
Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49
heiau of, 112
Lamb, Mr., 240, 244
birthplace of, 114
Mrs., 244
Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57
Lanao, Lake, 325, 334
Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57,
Lawton, General, 195
59,65
Legarda, Mr., 131, 298
Kamehameha TV, 65
Legaspi, Miguel Lopez
de,
Kamehameha V, 72
152, 153, 158
Kamehameha, Fort, 25
Legaspi, 317
Kamehameha School, 12
Lepanto, 270
Kamehamehas, the, 31
Liholiho, 56
Kanaloa, 34, 39
Liliuokalani, Queen, 9,
12,
Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42
75-78
Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74
Li Ma Hong, 156
Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173
Lono, 39, 49
Kau, 112, 113
Los Banos, 131
Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115
Lucena, 298, 302, 307
Kawaiahao Church, 9
Lunalilo Home, 12
Kawaihae, 112
Prince, 73
Keanonako, 12, 13
Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185
Keawe-Mauhili, 60
Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196,
198,
Keithley, Camp, 325, 334
245, 257, 261, 271,
275,
Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109,
297
112
Kinau, 12
Kohala, 114
ditch, 114
M
Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114
Konia, 12
Kotta, 297
Koxinga, 158
Ku,39 Kuhio, Prince, 118
MacArthur, General, 194,
196, 198
Macfarlane, Mrs., 15
Macomb, General M. M., 25
Magellan, 150, 151
370

Index

Makadum, 326

Midway Island (Brooks), 67,

Makapuu Point Light, 21

69, 70, 123

Malabang, 340

Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322,

Malacafian, Palace of, 126, 136

325-327, 331, 339, 340

Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326

Mines, Bureau of, 141

Malolos, 191, 195

Mirador, 253

Mandi, Dato, 346

Mitchell, Major, 266

Mangyans, 241

Moanalua, 25

Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156,

Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105

157, 159, 160, 166, 171,

Montojo, Admiral, 179

173, 186, 193, 199, 222,

Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209,

227, 249, 314, 315, 328

222, 241, 245, 322, 325-

sight-seeing in, 128-147,

339, 341, 342, 345-348,

361-362

350-352

Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157,

Moro Province, 346

178

Moses, Professor, 208

Battle of, 177, 184

Mountain Province, the, 270,

Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315

288

Manilibang, Dato, 337

Musick (quoted), 18

Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345

Marian, the, 16

N

Mariveles, 123

Marshall Islands, 116

Namaka, 23

Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51,

Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351

62, 81, 82, 106

Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257

East, 107

Negros, the, 295

demi-god, 35, 40

island of, 359

Mauna Kea, 108

Neumann, Paul, 15

Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113

"Noli Me Tangere" ("The

Mayon, Mount, 308

Social Cancer"), 170

McCulloch, the, 178

Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184

McKimmon, Father, 314

Nueva Viscaya, 258

McKinley, Fort, 132, 220

Nuuanu, battle of, 22

President, 183, 200, 207, 209

valley, 23, 51

Menehunes, the, 116

Merritt, General, 183, 192

0

Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157,

204
Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51,
Mexicans, 192
52, 82, 88, 103, 119
Index

371

College, 8, 9

Piang, Dato, 326, 342

Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55

Pili, 31

Ocampo, Pablo, 204

Pinkham, Governor, 80

"Occupation Day," 296

Plaza McKinley, 129

Olongapo, 273

Poison God, the, 105

Olympia, the, 4, 178, 179

Polo Club, 131

Osmefla, Mr., 298

Polynesia, 30, 39, 40

Otis, General, 192, 194, 198

Polynesians, 29, 30

Overton, Camp, 325

Puerto Princessa, 240

Punahou, 8

P

Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103

Paahana, 93

Q

Paao, 31, 37

Pack, Governor, 200

Queen's Hospital, 9, 65

Pagsanjan, 131

Quezon, Mr., 298, 301

Paki, 12

Pakuanui, 23

Palawan, 239, 240, 357
Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103
R
Panama Canal, 100, 119 '
Panay, 357, 359
Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73,
Papa, 5, 30
81, 100
Parker, Sam, 15
Reina Christina, the, 179
Pasig River, 127, 128, 225
Reynolds, Captain William, 69
Patterson, Admiral, 160
Rivera, Primo de, 175
Paulet, Lord George, 61
Rizal, 131, 170-172
Payne Bill, 358
Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318,
Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32
322, 343, 354, 358
Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110
Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269
Perkins, Commodore, 71
Root, Elihu, 300
Pershing, General, 349
Royal Hawaiian Band, 14,
Philadelphia, the, 16
74
Philip II, 151
Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6
Philip III, 177
Ruger,Fort,25
Philip V, 328
Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and
Philippine General Hospital,
Company, 308
141
Ruth, Princess, 81
372

Index

S

Sultan of, 326

Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata,

Sacaluran, Dato, 347

320

Saginaw, the, 71

Samar, 317

T

Sandwich Islands, 49

San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231

San Mateo, 195

Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-

San Miguel, 130

209

Santa Cruz, 195

Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139,

Santa Maria Cristina, 334

165, 167

Santiago, Fort, 172

Tagudin, 274, 276, 295

Sargent, Major, 340

Talbot, Lieutenant, 71

School of Arts and Trades, the,

Tantalus, Mt., 19

312

Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67

Science, Bureau of, 141, 142,

Thomas, Admiral, 61

353

Times, the Manila, 216, 349

Seaman's Act, 86

Tingians, the, 256, 257

Sepulchre, Padre, 286

Tobaco, 309

Sewall, Mr., 16

Topside, 249

Shafter, Fort, 25

Trail and Mountain Club, 103

Shark King (story of), 45-47

Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762)

Sibley, Miss, 133

159

Sicard, Lieutenant - Comman

1899, 206, 207

der, 71

Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105

Sokabe, Rev. S. (quoted), 117

Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167,
168, 175, 218
V
Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81
Stevens, Mr. (Minister to
Vancouver, Captain George,
Hawaii), 76
50,51
Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted),
Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151
24
Visayas, the, 176
Strong, Dr. Richard P., 229
Subig Bay, 178, 273
Suez Canal, the, 156, 164
W
Sugar Planters' Association, 99
Sulu, 326, 350
Wahaula (temple of), 37
Sea, 322, 353
Wahiawa, 103
Index

373

Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98

Wood, General, 325

Waianae, 82

Worcester, Mr. Dean C, 141,

Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25,

142, 208, 213, 218, 228,

103

248, 272, 286, 300

Wailuku, 106

(quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257,

Waimanu (valley), 115

292, 348, 356

Waimea, 115

Wright, Luke E., 208

Gulch, 115

Waipio (valley), 115

Wakea, 4, 5, 30

Y

Wekolo Pond, 32

Welles, Mr., 67
White, Dr., 253

Ynock, 342

Whitmarsh, Mrs. 250

Yongs, Mr., 160

Mr., 251

Young, Captain Lucien, 74

Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82

Young, John, 50

Wilcox, Robert W., 73

rebellion, 73
Wilder, Mrs., 15
Z
Wilson, President, 79, 212
Wisser, General J. P., 26
Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349
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