1 -, hk^i t . I, m I ^1 i*t3i iU .},rAH fir J iff H II fi 1 ILLllSTRAI 'Y^LE-^JMI^IEIESIIirY" \ ^ n P= S. THE GOVERNOR'S Guide TO Windsor Castle By the Most Noble THE MARQUIS OF LORNE, K,T. iSStti) 62 JIUuetcatlonei 4lll^fet?f^'" QMiJeK.'.' CASSELL AND COMPANY, Limited LONDON, PARIS &¦ MELBOURNE 1896 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED First Edition March 18^5. Reprinted April 1896. W7 &3 5-/^ CONTENTS. Introductory View from the Eound Tower View prom the "White Hart" or "Garter" Inn The Lower Ward Henry VIII. 's Gateway ... . . St. Geoboe's Story ...... St. George's Chapel ... Fetter-lock, or Horse-shoe, Cloister at the West end op St. George's Chapel The Stalls of the Garter Knights The Tomb-house, or Wolsey Chapel, or Albert Chapel The Middle Ward . The Winchester Tower . The Lieutenant's Tower The Devil's Tower ... The Nokman Tower and Gateway The North Terrace King John's Tower Interior of the Castle, North Side The Waterloo Gallery . Hall and Staircase ... Grand Staircase, Lower Hall, and State Entrance Charles II. 's Dining-room The Guard Room, or Armoury The Queen's Old Presence Chamber and Old Audience Chamber Vandyke Room page 1113 344044 4857 76 79 80 83 83 84 86 94 96 100 102106106 108114 118 122124 Vlll Guide to Windsor Castle. St. George's Hall . The Private Chapel Passage Portrait Chamber The Upper Ward The Queen's Dining-room Grand Corridor The Drawing -rooms The Fifteenth-Century Furniture The Round Table The Order op' the Garter The Round Tower . Secret Passages Windsor Forest .... Eton page 126129 129130132134138 no 111 147 158 166 167 178 LIST or ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGF Windsor Castle from the Thames .... Frontispiece A Peep prom the Dean's Garden .... Title-page Windsor Castle from the Home Park ... .11 NoRDEN's View op Windsor Castle, 1607 . . . .1.5 View prom the Eound Tower 19 The Curfew Tower 21 Plan of the Castle 24-25 The Lower Ward, looking down . . . 27 Prisoners' Signatures on the Walls of the Norman Tower 31 The Castle from Thames Street ... 37 A "Bit" of the Outer Walls 37 The Lower Ward, looking ui- . 39 Henry VIII.'s Gateway . . .45 The Outer Cloisters and Anne Boleyn's Window . . 49 St. George's Chapel from the River 50 St. George's Chapel . 53 THE Choir, looking West . 55 Oliver King's Chantry . . .61 the Hastings Chantry . . 63 Alms-box .... .64 THE Choir, looking East . . 67 the Royal Vault . . 69 In the Cloister . . 71 Choir Stalls and Royal Closet, St. George's Chapel . 72 The Hundred Steps . . .73 Inner Cloister, looking West . ... 75 Fetter-lock, or Horse-shoe, Cloister .... 77 The Albert Chapel 81 North Terrace and Winchester Tower .... 85 Guide to Windsor Castle. The Round Tower from the King of Scotland's Lodging Norman Gate Queen Eltzabeth's Library Sketch, from the North Terrace . NoRM.iN Gate and Library, from King John's Tower King John's Tower . . , . The Library : Queen Anne's Room The Library : Queen Elizabeth's Gallery The Waterloo Gallery The Audience Room Grand Reception Room . . ¦ . Grand Entrance Hall to the Castle . Round Tower and Grand Entrance, from the Quadrangle Steel Shield embossed and inlaid in gold and silver by Cellini ... The Guard Room, or Armoury The Vandyke Room . St. George's Hall . The Oak Dining-room The State Dining-room The South-east Corridor The Queen's First Council The White Drawing-koom The Green Drawing-room The Crimson Drawing-room The Rocnd Tower . Gun Commanding the Stairs op the Round Tower The Castle prom the Berkshire Shore Windsor Forest and Castle prom Bishopsgate . Reduced Facsimile of a Letter prom Charles I. to the Marquis of Arygle . Market Street, Windsor Town Hall from the High Street Eton from the Castle Slopes Windsor Castle from the Brocas PAGE 91 9395 9597 101 103105107 109111113 115 117119 123 127131 133 135137139 141 143 157159161169 176 177 177 181187 ¦WINDSOR CASTIE FROM THE home P4RK GOYBI^NOI^'S GUIDE TO WlNDSOI^ (SaST.LE. INTRODUCTORY. FTEN in the East, as in Southern Europe, and especially in Italy, you see monas teries and convents built on hill summits. These places afforded safety, isolation and quiet, so that, sundered from the world, a life of prayer and meditation could be led within them. The strongholds of feudatory lords were also raised on the peaks of hills, that from those eyries they might overawe the regions 13 Guide to Windsor Castle. around them. The retreats, both of the men of thought and of the men of action, remain for us more conspicuous, and less remote from memory, than the low-lying lands, where men were most busy, and the croAvd seemed to itself to be the whole world. But the babble of their tongues, and the fervent interests of their day, have been hidden by the mists of oblivion. And as in looking out from one of those high- perched Italian monasteries, you watch, as they break through the silver sea of the morning clouds, the ragged masses of the mountain pinnacles ; so, in glancing back over the levels of history, the castles break out of the mists, challenging attention 'as the visible remnants of that land which seems lost under the shining floor of vapour. We have heard stories of the prowess of this king, and of the cruelty of that knight ; of the wisdom of one reign, and of the ruin brought upon another, but history remains half hidden to the mind, until we see the very stones, the very halls which were reared by the actors in the drama, and tread the paths that heard their footsteps as they passed to their destiny. From out the dimness of England's ancient story, Windsor and Winchester, and Camelot and Caerleon are raised aloft, lit with the light of the romance of Arthur. Warwick, Dover and Belvoir, and Alnwick and Conway and Carnarvon, the Tower of London, and again Windsor, rise from the times of the History's Mountain Summits. 13 Norman dominion. Edinburgh, Kenilworth, Pens- hurst, and Naworth : Carisbrooke, and again Windsor, remain in our sight to recall most forcibly the period when " our loyal passion for our temperate kings " began to make these castle-landmarks of our story scarcer in the land. Through all the long review of points of time that challenge observation, Windsor stands the most enduring and the most majestic of the places around which gather the memories of all ages of England's greatness. VIEW FROM THE EOUND TOWER. In the valley of England's famous river the Nor mans built two strong towers, that of London and that of Windsor. This stream nursed the cradle of Norman power, and saw the renewed birth of English liberty, when the stranger-barons, whose fathers subdued England, wrung from their king the great charter of the rights of the subject. Let none miss the view from the summit of the Keep (p. 19). The stair ascending the hill on which it stands is remarkable ; and if it be considered to give too easy access to an enemy, see how the ascent is commanded by the gun placed in the wall on the top landing of the broad steps (p. 159). There is plenty more stairway, as the visitor will find after this danger has been passed, and he will be breathless enough, when the highest battlements are reached, 14 Guide to Windsor Castle. to listen dumbly to a description of the things visible to him in the country spread at his feet : the peopled town, the nearer Castle buildings, all will yield in interest to the place lying to the north, where King John met his discontented Barons. " We, too, are heirs of Runnymede," sang the great American, Whittier, alluding to the equal right Americans and Britons possess, to be proud of the vindication of liberty by their common ancestors, when they compelled King John to sign Magna Charta at Runnymede, a meadow the position of which can be marked from Windsor by the heights of St. Anne's Hill. Whittier's words may be repeated by all nations whose government is founded on parliamentary control. The Great Charter gave a birth to constitutional liberty. That meadow on the Thames bank is a fair green level, cut by the stream, which is only a long stone's throw broad at the place where the famous meeting was held. Wooded hills, crowned with fine oak and beech, rise on one side. Not far off is the home of Charles Fox, who was so good a friend to the American Colonies when they asserted their rights against King George. It is a pretty scene in summer, and by no means cheerless in winter, for the snow seldom lies long in southern England, and the fields always look green. The russet tones of the woodland are veiled. in the distance with the soft blue whose peculiar tint is korden's vie^' or -vs-ixhsoe. castle, 1G07 (Harleian, MSS.) i6 Guide to Windsor Castle. derived from the moisture that spreads a gentle haze o^-er the landscape. Few bluffs overlook the river, whose waters flow with a smooth current, encircling here and there small flat meadow isles, fringed with reeds and willows. The most prominent bluffs are at Cliveden, six miles above Windsor. We know nothing of the early life of this neighbourhood, for there are but meagre Saxon chronicles, and the British days are shrouded in mystery. Nothing is said of the suc cessive waves of foreign invasion until the German colonists' scanty record ; but now and then we light on evidence of battles and of burials in that dark time, and of late a curious " find" lets us again look on an ancient tragedy. Near the modern village of Maidenhead, a strange scene was enacted long ago, in the time of Saxon or early British dominion, be fore the Normans came from France. There were other Norsemen, the ancestors of the French Normans, who came to see what booty could be got from England. An expedition led by one of their chiefs came from the North Sea up the river to London. He may have left his galley, with its rows of shields along the bulwark, its single heavy mast and its yard overhanging the carved prow, at London, where a rich Roman colony had built a fine town, which was inhabited, after the Roman evacuation,' by the Latinised Britons. He may have expected soon to Ancient Pioneers. 17 return from the excursion up the river, made with a flotilla of smaller vessels. Anyhow, on he went with his men until, past many a village and townland in the forest clearings, he passed the Windsor Hill and voyaged onwards to the bluff's which rose more immediately over the river' near Cliveden. There he fell sick and died. Then his people carried his body up the ridge and laid him down where all the country could be seen, with the broad blue stream below winding on towards Windsor. They dug deep a great grave for this chief, to us unknown. They dug until the excavation was twenty feet deep, and then they gently lowered the body wrapped in its cloak with the fringe of gold, the folds clasped on his breast with a great brooch of pure gold. Its hasps and flanges were of pure gold, and in the midst of the gleaming plates that made the ornament were six great Oriental garnets. By his side they placed his sword and delicately-wrought dass o-oblets, and all wherewith he would in life have desired to be furnished, were he to go on a long journey. So they left him sleeping, and filled in the earth, raising it in a mound above the tomb. The Saxons afterwards called the spot " Taplow," or the mound on the hilltop ; but they knew not who the stranger was, nor can Ave, save that he was great in his own Northland. 13 1 8 Guide to Windsor Castle. Perhaps he did not halt at Windsor on his way up the river because there was a strong garrison there, and a fort. Such a place would have been fortified at all times of history ; for the heights there, though not great, are steep on the river side, and stand alone, commanding the neighbourhood. When traffic was easier by river than by any other mode, when horse- and foot-paths were the only roads, advantage would always be taken of heights that could command the passage of streams. Toll may have been taken of passing boats by ancient " riparian owners," and any tribe able to possess a Thames cliff, could (to use an old expres sion) " bluff it " in the face of their adversaries. The waters flowed in olden days close under the heights. The " Avinding shore," from Avhich " Windlesora " takes its name, Avound in other curves, or may have left the land between the Castle hill and its present channel an island, to Avhose banks there Avere shalloAvs and fords making its bed easy to be passed, and thus inviting the building of a stronghold that could defend the place. The Britons and Romans loved such situations for Avorks of defence, and the Saxons, if not the people before them, raised great circular earth-mounds on such Ioav hills to make them impregnable to assault. In Norfolk there is a mound greater than that at Windsor. It is like the round crater, and cone of a grass-covered volcano ; and in the crater the VIEW FROM THE ROUND TOWER, B 2 20 Guide to Windsor Castle. Normans of the Norfolk fort, called Castle Rising, built a stone keep. At Windsor a palisade of wood, or a chalk ram part, may have been built so as to occupy all the top of the old British earth circle and mound. There also came the French Normans in due time, and raised Avails and enlarged the area that was enclosed by strengthening the mound. This time the building was to be done by hands Avhich did not relinquish their hold, for William the Conqueror was the ncAv possessor. A little lower doAvn is Old Windsor, an ancient Sajton hunting lodge and '' chase," of Avhich nothing remains to recall kingly occupation but the name. The people liked better to dwell Avhere newer fortifi cations arose. No Avonder William found the hill a good place, for there is no fairer vieAv in England, That from Richmond is not so extensive; and at Windsor he possessed, besides, a grand forest country for his sports. His men could put off their chain-mail and pointed helmets Avith the straight face-guards, and give chase to the red deer, Avhich then abounded all over the country, the hunters having no metal about them except the sharp, plain Norman spur on their heels, and the iron on the tips of their arroAvs. NoAv the distant smoke of the mightiest city in the Avorld can be descried on the horizon, In those Wooded England. 21 days so rarely Avas smoke visible, that signals Avere transmitted by kindling fires at market-places, and the clear air kneAv not the fumes that make the white river-fogs dark-yellow in colour, and stifling to breathe. The chequered appearance of the nearer THE CURFEW TOWER, landscape, divided hj hedgei'OAv and field to the north and east, is modern ; but to the south and Avest the Avoods of oak must present much their appearance of the olden days. No engineer has altered the river, or been able even to abate its occasional Avinter floods, Avhich turn the banks above Windsor into a shalloAV lake. The further landscape is still Avhat 22 Guide to Windsor Castle. it was. It is still a wooded land. There are no sterile patches, no ugly intervals, no naked tracts of sand or earth. All is green, and better than in the early days in this — that the cheerfulness of peace is on it, and the " stately homes " are more frequent, and the villages need no rampart, but expand in security, and, it must be added, often with a system of architecture to Avhich distance alone can lend enchantment. The Castle was very strong. These keeps AA'^ere built so that there Avas no chance of a surprise. Massive gates placed m security beyond deep ditches were let into the Avails, Avell defended by battlement and flanking toAvers. DraAvbridges and portcullises might be forced, but there the enemy only found himself at the beginning of his Avork. Narrow passages led to other defences, and the Keep itself Avas reached by a stair so narrow that one man only could enter at a time. The Avails of the lowest storey showed only tiny shot- or loop-holes. The second storey shoAved more of these, but so narrow that no torch could be throAvn in. The third storey had Avindows so high in the Avail that arrows or bolts shot from beloAv could only hit the arch of the opening, to fall back harmless. The top storeys were filled Avith Aveapons that could throAV darts, stones, and heavy balls, so assail ants could not easily take a Norman keep. The Normans had taste as well as streno-th, and 1.00 gtjO PLAN OF TH: •i © 3", 9 ig