mm

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Cambrian ai*ci)a?ological association.

Established 1846

In order to Examine, Preserve, and Illustrate the Ancient Monuments and,
Remains of the History, Language, Manners, Customs,
and Arts of Wales and the Marches.

OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION.

President.— VLon. Prof. W. BOYD DAWKINS, M.A., D.Sc, F.R.S., ff.S.A.
Commiltee.
The President ; the President-Elect ; the Presidents of past years ; the Vice-
Presidents ; the Treasurer ; the General and Local Secretaries ; and the
Editorial Sub-(3ommittee.
Lieut.-Col. W. LI. Morgan, R.E., Chairman. John Ward, Es(i.,JP.S.A;
Iltyd Nioholl, Bscl., M.A., F.S.A. Major F. Vaughan- Williams.
H. Harold Hughes, Esq., F.S.A. T. E. Morris, Esq., LL.M.
A. FouIkeB-Roberts, Esq., F.S.A.Soot. Geo. Eyre Evans, Esq.
E. Neil Baynes, Esq., F.S.A. Major Charles E. Breese.
Willoughby Gardner, Esq., F.S.A. llrs. Henry Lewis.
Thos. Mansel Franklen, Esq. Wilfrid J. Hemp, Esq,, F.S.A.
Editorial Sub-Committee.
Professor J. E. Lloyd, M.A. T. E. Morris, Esq., LL.M.
Professor H. J. Fleure, M.A. Geo. Eyre Evans, Esq.
Chairman and two General Secretaries ex officio.
Editor. — Rev. Canon J. Fisher, B.D.
Treasurer.— I). Lleufer Thomas, Esq., M.A., Derlwyn, Whitchurch, Cardiff.
Trustees.
Colcmel W. Gwynne-Hughes. '•¦
Lieut.Colonel C. S. Mainwaring. J. W. WiUiB-Bund, Esq., F.S.A.
General Secretaries.
Rev. Canon J. Fisher, B.D., Cefn Rectory, St. Asaph — North Wales.
Alfred E. Bowen, Esq., F.S.A., Castle Vale, Usk, Mon.— South Wales.

The Annual Subscription is One Guinea, due on January Ist, and
should be paid as soon as possible after that date, in order that the
Members may be entitled to receive the numbers of the Journal.
Members residing in South Wales and Monmouthshire are requested
to remit the same, hy Cheque or Postal Order, to Alfred E. Bq-WEN,
Esq., F.S.A., Castle Vale, Usk, Mon. ; and all other Members to
the Rev. Canon John Fisher, B.D., Cefn Rectory, St. Asaph, from
whom the Rules and List of Members of the Association may be
obtained. Formal Notice, given six months previous to the first day of the
following year, is required from any Member wishing to -withdraw,
from the Association, and at the same time all arrears must be paid.

TOURS IN WALES
(1804t-1813)

RICHARD FENTOIST

FROM HIS MS. JOURNALS IN THE CARDIFF FREE LIBRARY
BY
JOHN FISHBE, B.D.,
MIBBENDARY OF ST. ASAPH, GENERAL SBCRETARY OF THE ASSOOTATIOS.

LONDON :
^rtnt(i) for t\^t fiantbriait §irc^acoloijtcal ^Esociattoii bg
THE BEDFORD PRESS,
20 AND 21, BEDFORDBURY, STRAND, W.C.
1917.

^M

Richard Fenton.

INTKODUCTION.

The selection of Fenton's " Tours in Wales " as a Supplement
-was primarily suggested by the War ; it was felt desirable, if
possible, that members should, in some small way, be com
pensated for the unavoidable postponement for the time being
of the annual excursions, and Fenton's unpublished work seemed
appropriate, as it covered both North and South Wales in its
scope, though not entirely ; and there was, besides, the intrinsic
topographical and historical value of the work itself. There
was nothing " profound " to be expected from its publication ;
but it recorded much that we did not know, and much, too,
that we shall never know or see anything of again — objects
that have since disappeared. No apology is needed for its
publication ; it will abide by its merits.
Before we proceed to any editorial details, something must
be said about the author. But we are compelled to be brief,
and we suggest that those who may desire fuller information
should read the lengthy biography by his grandson, Mr. Ferrar
Fenton, prefixed to the reprint of the " Tour through Pem
brokeshire/' 1903 ; also the article in the " Dictionary of National
Biography." Richard Fenton was born in 1747, and died in 1821. He was
a descendant of Baron Ricard le Fentone, who came over
with the Conqueror, a branch of whose family settled in Pem
brokeshire during the Commonwealth. Fenton was born at St.
David's in January, 1747. He received his early education
at the Cathedral School and Haverfordwest Grammar School,
and thence proceeded to Magdalen College, Oxford ; but he
does not seem to have taken a degree. At an early age he secured
a post in London at the Custom House ; and whilst there he
a2

iv INTRODUCTION.
wrote a very satirical poem in which he pilloried some of the
heads of the Government Department with which he was con
nected. But the Civil Service was not his natural career ; he
was admitted to the Middle Temple in 1774, and called to the
Bar in January, 1783. He attended the Welsh Circuits for a
number of years, but devoted the latter part of his life to literary
pursuits. He married Eloise, the beautiful daughter of Baron Pillet de
Moudon, the personal friend of the second Duke of Marlborough,
and by her had three sons — John, Richard, and Samuel.
During his residence in London he became acquainted with
most of the literary and dramatic celebrities of his day. He
knew something of Dr. Johnson, Edmund Burke, and Sir Joshua
Reynolds (who painted miniatures of him and of his -wife) ; but
he was particularly intimate with Oliver Goldsmith and David
Garrick. His greatest and most intimate friend in later life was,
undoubtedly, Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Bart. (1758-1838), who
accompanied him in his " Tours " practically throughout, and
to whom he dedicated his " Pembrokeshire " (1811) — " recollect
ing the numerous journeys in which we have traced together
the vestiges of antiquity ; the many hours of my existence which
your conversation has informed and cheered . . . the friend
of my fortunes and of my life." He also reckoned among his
friends William Owen, better known as Dr. W. Owen Pughe.
To enable him to become the better acquainted with Welsh
history and antiquities generally, as also to follow his profession
on the Welsh Circuits, he took a house near Machynlleth, and it
was here, in 1788, that his .second son was born. After some years
he retired to his native county, residing at Fishguard ; but soon
built for himself a fine house, Glynamel, in the Gwaun Valley,
in that neighbourhood. Here he Hved for the last twenty years
of his life, and here he died, in November, 1821, in his 75th year.
He was buried at the parish church of Manorowen.
He was a cultured, well-read man, a good Greek, Latin, and
French scholar, and by the circle in which he turned regarded
as possessed of the best information on almost any subject..

INTRODUCTION. V
He was a man of ample means, of indefatigable industry, and
gentlemanly, fascinating maimers. He wrote a good deal of
poetry ; and he may be described, in few words, as barrister,
topographer, antiquary, poet, and scholar. He was an F.S.A.
The foUowing is a list of his pubhshed works : —
" Poems," London, 1773, 4° (contains the satire) ; 2 vols., 1790,
12o. " A Historical Tour through Pembrokeshire," London, 1811, 4°.
This work was censured by Bishop Burgess in " Bishops and
Benefactors of St. Da-vid's vindicated from the misrepresentations
of a recent publication," 1812. Fenton's caustic reply to the
Bishop's strictures remains in MS. The work was reprinted,
Brecon, 1903, 4°, with a biography by his grandson ; " to which
are now added the notes made for a second edition by Richard
and John Fenton." A useful index to the volume was compiled
by Dr. Henry Owen, of Poyston, and published in 1894.
" A Tour in quest of Genealogy, through several parts of Wales,
Somersetshire and Wiltshire. ... by a Barrister." London,
1811, 8°.
" Memoirs of an Old Wig," London, 1815, 8° ; a humorous work,
published anonymously.
He -wrote a good deal besides. His verse translation of Owen
CyfeiUog's " Englynion i gylchau Cymru " (" Myv. Arch." p. 192)
is given in Stephens' " Literature of the Kymry," 1876, pp. 32-6.
He left in MS. a translation of the " Deipnosophistse " (" Doctors
at Dinner," or " The Banquet of the Learned ") of Athenseus ;
also some Comedies.
He at one time thought of publishing an enlarged edition
of Pennant's " Tours in Wales," with " a new set of drawings "
by Sir Richard C. Hoare ; but the idea ultimately fell through,
owing to Pennant's son objecting to his method of editing
(see Pennant's " Tours," ed. 1883, iii. 413-15).
He edited George Owen's " Description of Pembrokeshire "
in the " Cambrian Register " — his account of the game of
Knappan in the volume for 1795, pp. 168-76, and the " Descrip
tion " in that for the following year, pp. 53-230.

VI INTRODUCTION.
But it was the great ambition of his life, which he tried to
carry out when he had passed its meridian, to -write a History of
Wales, in the form of a series of County Histories, founded on
original research. Of this project the first and only volume
published is his "Pembrokeshire." He had conceived the
idea too late in life ; and it was much too ambitious an under
taking, to do like the " Pembrokeshire," even if he had started
on it early in Ufe. He had, however, amassed a great quantity
of material for the purpose, as the shelves at the Cardiff Library
show. A good many of these MSS. are the Journals of his " Tours,"
containing the information he had collected at first hand ; others
are note-books into which he had read the historical and anti
quarian material for his scheme, which have not been used by
us, except those incorporated in the Appendix.
It will be seen on reference to the Index to Counties what
proportion of the various coimties he managed to " tour."
Carnarvonshire certainly holds the premier place, occupying
considerably more than one-half of the " Tours." We have
ventured to give the volume the title of " Tours in Wales,"
which correctly describes it, though, unfortunately, this is also
the title of Pennant's work ; but, rightly, his should have been
" Tours in North Wales."
The great collector. Sir Thomas Phillipps, Bart., of Middle
Hill, acquired Fenton's MSS. from his son, Samuel, in 1858;
and these were purchased, as part and parcel of the Phillipps
collection, by the Cardiff Library in 1896. The Fenton MSS.
comprise about sixty volumes.
The MSS. have thrice undergone numbering ; like, for instance,
the Montgomeryshire Journal — originally, Fenton MSS., No. 47 ;
then, Phillipps, 14,456 ; and now, Cardiff, 2.56.
Eighteen MSS. were used in the compilation of this volume.
With few exceptions, these are the size of note-books of about
7| in. X 4| in., i.e., crown octavo, and in boards. As Journals of
his Tours, these would be of a convenient size for the pocket.
The exceptions are : — MS. 1.22, somewhat oblong, 7| in. x %h in..

INTRODUCTION. T»
¦written opened with the back upwards ; MS. 4.49, 12 in. X 7| in..,
quarto; and MS. 5.12, foUo.
Many of the others relate in some way or another to Ms
great County Histories plan. The Journals of his Pembrofee-
shire Tour are not found among the collection j tut MSS,
1.42, 2.63, 2.65, 2.127, 3.20, 5.66, and possibly others, contain
a large amount of extracts, documents, letters, etc., for his
purpose. The folio MS. 5.12 was, clearly, Fenton's " fair copy " for press.
At the end has been inserted a folio (No. 349J of his "Pembroke
shire," exactly the same as regards size and style as this. There
is an appendix of documents from Dugdale's " Monasticon."
The MS. covers, in an extended form, portions of MS. 2.55 ; and to
avoid repetitions, certain sections of the latter, duly noted, have
been omitted. This MS. has been written with great care, and
is much more legible than the Journals generally.
The History of Beaumaris (MS. 4.49) was -written bj WiUiam
Williams, Master of the Beaumaris School, about 1669. It was
at one time in the possession of Paul Panton, of Plas Gwyn,
Anglesey, but it is not found among the Panton MSS. as reported
on by Dr. Gwenogvryn Evans. Richard Llwyd in the notes to
his poem, " Beaumaris Bay," drew upon it. See his " Poetical
Works," 1837, pp. Ixix, 8, 17, 52 (the statement on p. 57 is
incorrect as found on comparison) ; also a pamphlet, " History
of Beaumaris School," 1864, p. 20.
MSS. 2.48 and 2.52 contain extracts from two MSS. by WiUiam
WilUams, of Llandegai (1738-18173j the originals of which are
now in the possession of Mr. J. E. Griffith, Bryn Dinas, Bangor.
Williams was a native of Trefdraeth, Anglesey^ and was the
author, especially, of " Observations on the Snowdon Moimtains,
with some account of the Customs and Manners of the Inhabi
tants," 1802 — in several respects a valuable work. MS. 2.52
(Carnarvonshire) gave considerable trouble, owing to Fenton
ha-vdng, evidently, made his extracts on more than one occasion,
writing, in the first instance, on the right-hand page only ; after
wards filling in on the opposite page, usually with but little

Vm INTRODUCTION.
regard to what he had already copied— thus often involving
repetition. We did the best we could with it.
MS. 2.59 is entitled " Miscellaneous Memoranda of Wales out
of E. Lhwyd's MSS., the Panton Collection, &c., &c." Part of
the " Lhuydiana " had been copied for Fenton by someone, who,
it is clear, did not understand Welsh. There is nothing of
greater value in all this volume, in our estimation, than the
" Lhuydiana " herein rescued and published for the first time.
Not a scrap of it will be found in the " ParochiaUa " published
hy the Association, in tihree parts, 1909-11. We wish there
was more of it.
As to MS. 2.58, the Rug MSS. were removed to Peniarth in
1859, and now form part of that great collection in the National
Library of Wales.
MS. 2.61 is in Sir Richard C. Hoare's autograph, containing,
besides extracts, " My own remarks on Neath Abbey." We
thought it well to include the little it contains pertaining to our
purpose. The other MSS. used do not seem to call for special mention.
Fenton -wrote rather a provoking hand — always, it would
appear, -with a quill. He seems to have written up his Journals
regularly daily : amplification and excision would come at
the proper time, when he wrote out his " fair copy " (see, e.g.,
p. 238). In the editing of this volume no liberties — or very little
— ^have been taken -with his script beyond extending the ever-
recurring " & ", and occasional rearranging of the text.
We append a table showing the MS. source of each section,
successively, of the volume, -n-hich, in case of necessity, will be
of service.
Pages of Vol. MSS.
^-18  1.22 (Phillipps 14,442), Carmarthens., Cardi
gans., Brecons.
2.64 (Phillipps 14,464), Radnors., Brecons.,
Herefords., Montgoms., Merion., Carnarvons.
2.57 (Phillipps 14,457), Carmarthens.
2.56 (Phillipps 14,456), Montgoms. (also pp
131-3). ^^
2.51 (Phillipps 14,451), Montgoms.. Merioneth.

18-53
54-77
78-83 83-133

¦C^Hy^

/l^^-e-K^ 4^r-^
^^ e^ '
;*;
.:^-
^?''-
PhdtograplK'tl pago of MS. 2.57.
(See p. 60.)
introduction.

IX

Tages of Vol. MSS.
134-157  2.54 (Phillipps 14,452), Denbighs., Flints.
158-183  5.12 (PhUlipps 14,412-13), Carnarvons.
183-206  2.55 (Phillipps 14,455), Carnarvons., No. 1.
206-232  2.50 (Phillipps 14,450), Carnarvons., No. 2
(No. 3 is missing).
232-254  2.49 (Phillipps 14,449), Carnarvons., No. 4.
255-268  2.53 (PhilHpps 14,453), Anglesey.
Appendix.
269-275  2.48 (Phillipps 14,448), Williams's Anglesey
(also pp. 89-91, 122-3).
275-306  4.49 (PhilHpps 14,478), History of Beaumaris.
307-331  2.52 (Phillipps 14,452), Williams's Carnarvon
shire.
-332-349  2.59 (Phillipps 14,459), Edward Lhuyd, Panton,
&c. (also p. 353).
349-355  2.58 (Phillipps 14,458), Rug MSS. Extracts, and
2.59.
2.61 (PhUlipps 14,461), Brecons., Glam. (pp. 352,
354-5).
Very Uttle use has ever been made of Fenton's MSS. herein
-contained. Those forming the Appendix have, like the
" Tours," never been published. Some extracts were made by
the Royal Commission on Ancient Monuments for their Car
marthenshire Inventory, 1917 ; and an excerpt relating to
Llanddwyn (pp. 269-70) from Williams's MS. has appeared in
Arch. Camh., 1898, pp. 371-2.
The " touring " was done by Fenton and Sir Richard on
horse-back, and they accompanied each other for practically
the whole time. There is a reference on pp. 90-1 to a time
before they had become such fast friends. Sir Richard supplied
the views for the " Pembrokeshire," and no doubt it was
intended that he should do Ukewise for the next (probably
Carnarvonshire) and subsequent " Tours."
The period covered by these " Tours " is from 1804 to 1813,
though on p. 131 we find the date 1816 — five years before
Fenton's death. The order in which the MSS. have here been
placed follows, as far as it was practicable, his dates, and working

X introduction.
from South Wales northwards. Fenton, as a native, had seen
a good deal of Wales, including North Wales, before he penned
a line of the "Tours." He had been, for instance, in the
Vale of Cl-wyd seven years before he " toured " it (p. 144) ; and
he had seen the Cain and Mawddach Falls twenty-two years
before, i.e., in 1791 (pp. 128-9).
Fenton is, we think, the most literary of all the Welsh
" Tourists," especiaUy of those that went before him. He is a
very descriptive -writer, and his extensive knowledge of Ufe, and
men, and books is apparent everywhere. His sentences, however,,
are often much too long {e.g., p. 98) and involved, and, as found
in his handwriting, frequently difficult to make out the drift.
As for punctuation, well — ^he was a la-wyer ! Certain words he
has his o-wn way of spelUng ; and he always affects a k after c
in words Uke " pubUck," etc. His profuse use of capitals was
characteristic of his day, and before. He was by no means^
correct, or even consistent, in his spelling of Welsh names ;
but no worse than the " official " spelUng of to-day ! His
Welsh scholarship is that of his day. To him, Conway is
Cynwy, " the chief or monarch water " (p. 158) ; the Lhw is
the coloured (with blood) river (pp. 91, 130) ; Gwyddelan
might be for Gwaith y Lleng (p. 189) ; and Gwydir derives from
G-wy tir (p. 167), " without torturing a single letter " !
" It has been rather the fashion of late to look on Richard
Fenton as an iconoclastic gourmet, who went through the land.
breaking up barrows and cracking cromlechs " (Arch. Camb., 1895,.
p. 159). Undoubtedly he and Sir Richard (both culprits) did
do a good deal of excavating, and did not do it as scientificaUy
as mo,st of their successors. But we believe the present volume
sets Fenton in a somewhat different and better light, and -will
serve to correct the impression, if it does exist. It gives us a
number of instances of barrows that they " broke up," and of
cromlechs that they " cracked " ; but it also teUs us, in each
case, what were the actual contents of these, or, at any rate,
what they found. AVe have here a record as to who did the
deed, and what the " spoil " amounted to. A good many

INTEODUOTION. XI
people since their day have occupied their leisure with " doing
a little excavating," all over Wales, but were influenced by no
considerations for posterity ; they have left no record. These
two men probably did the work as weU as any of their day ; and
we can now only wish that they had been a little less active
in this particular direction. No man's work is perfect. Time
after time we find Fenton disagreeing with, and correcting.
Pennant. Early in his " Tours " he makes the sage observation
(p. 11), " IncreduUty is essential to constitute a good Antiquary."
The " good Antiquaries " of a generation or two hence will
no doubt be foimd probing with their " incredulity " much
of the " soUd " work of our day. May it stand the test !
Attention must be drawn to the version or versions of the
Legend of the Lady of Llyn y Fan Fach (Carmarthenshire) on
p. 74, committed to -writing by Fenton in June, 1809. This is,
we believe, the earliest recorded relation of this beautiful legend,
the next in point of time, that we have come across, being the
one in the " Cambro-Briton " for March, 1821 (ii, pp. 313-15),
communicated by a -writer under an assumed name. The best
known and most circumstantial version is that " collected from
various sources in the year 1841," and -written down " from oral
recitations," by WiUiam Rees, of Tonn. It is found prefaced to
the " Meddygon Myddfai," pubhshed in 1861, and, perhaps more
accessibly, in Sir J. Rhys's " Celtic FoUslore," 1901, i, pp. 2-12. |
There remains for us the pleasant duty of tendering our very
cordial thanks to the Committee of the Cardiff Library for
aUo-wing us the special privilege of having the eighteen MSS.
composing this volume copied under the most favourable con
dition ; and to Mr. Harry Farr, Librarian, and Mr. Ifano Jones,
Librarian in charge of the Welsh Department, for their unfailing
courtesy and kindness in this matter, as at all times. Our visits to
this very fine Reference Library, now extending over many
years, are always a pleasure.
The photographs of Fenton and a page of one of his Journals
are by Freke, of Cardiff — the former from the portrait facing the
Pembrokeshire Tour.

:X11 INTRODUCTION.

THE " BANGU."

There was formerly in Wales, as in England and elsewhere, a hand-
'beU. rung at funerals, which, in the English Church Inventories
(more especiaUy), is met with under the names lich-bell, corpse-
bell, or corse-beU. Fenton apphes to this bell the name "bangu."
He teUs us that he saw, belonging to Llanwrda Church (pp. 72-3),
" a most beautiful little Bangu Bell . . . lately used at Funerals,"
with a Dutch inscription. Elsewhere he applies the name to the
-old quadrangular bronze-cast Celtic bell shown him at Llangystennin
(p. 202 ; cf. pp. 262, 265), which is now in the Powysland Club
Museum, at Welshpool. This bell is 8 in. in height and
8j in. X 5f in. across the mouth.
" Bangu " for the lich-beU is, we believe, a misnomer, for which,
it would appear. Sir Richard C. Hoare is responsible. The Bangu
proper was the bell at Glascwm (St. David), Radnorshire, said to
have belonged to St. David, which is mentioned by two contemporary
writers of the late twelfth century, Giraldus Cambrensis and
Gwynfardd Brycheiniog. Giraldus ia his " Itinerarium Kambriae,"
i, c. 1 (" Opera," vi, p. 18), says :—
Apud Elvail autem, in ecclesia de Glasomn, est campana bajula
virtuosissina, quam proprio vocabulo Bangu vocant, quae et Sancti David
fuisse perhibetur.
Gwynfardd (" Myv. Arch.," p. 194) says that it was borne to
Glascwm by St. Da-vid's two famous oxen, still popularly associated
•with Llanddewi Brefi : —
Y hebrwg anrec yn redega-wc
Y lasg-mn nyt oet trwm tri vrtassawc
Edewid bangu gu gadwynawc
Ar deu ereill ureiso y -vrycheinya-«'-c.
[To convey a gift, on full speed.
To Glaso-(vm — three consecrated bells (thej- were not heavy).
Bangu, the dear thing with its chain, was left there ;
And the two other large ones in Brycheiniog.]
The lich-bell was rung in front of the funeral procession from the
house to the church ; but Sir R. C. Hoare in a note on the Bangu
to his translation of the " Itinerary " (1806, i, p. 22), identifies it
with the lich-bell, ascribing to it the like function : — " This is a

INTRODUCTION. Xlli
hand bell kept in all the Welsh churches during the times of popery,
which the clerk or sexton took to the house of the deceased on the
day of the funeral," etc. According to him, Bangu, from being
the specific name of St. David's bell at Glasc-wm, became the
generic term in Welsh for a lich-beU. There is nothiag in the-
accormt above to lead one to assume that it was used for that purpose.
With the exception of one passage, no writer of earlier date than the
beginning of last century seems anywhere to give this name to the
lich-bell, and the few writers that do, appear to, have taken it from
this note, e.g., Mackenzie Walcott, " Sacred Archseology," 1868,
p. 458. The passage referred to is quoted by Silvan Evans in his.
Welsh-English Dictionary, p. 427, as from a Hengwrt MS. —
" Bangu, clock la-w a genid rhag cyrff idd y Uan," " Bangu, a hand
bell rung before corpses to church." The extract stands alone.
The Glascwm Bangu was, undoubtedly, one of those early quad
rangular hand-bells, of iron or bronze, so much venerated and
treasured by Christians in all Celtic lands, and which are con
tinually referred to in the Lives of their Saints. Gildas was an
e.xpert bell-founder. Those still extant are most abundant m Ireland,
where there are between 50 and 60. There are a few found in Wales —
the Llangystennin (now at Welshpool), Llanrhuddlad (4 in. high),
Llangwnadl (5 in. high, at Cardiff), Llanarmon (Carn.), Dolwyddelan
(at G-wydir Castle), and Llangeneu (at Cardiff). Many of these had
special names, other than the Saints', derived from their colour,
tone, etc. Edward Lhuyd (" ParochiaUa," i, pp. 63-4) names the
three Celtic beUs found at Cwm — Clocb Felen y Cwm, Cloch Wen
Abergele [cf. St. Maedoc's Finn-cloco), and Cloch Las Llanddulas
(cf. St. Moenacan's Clog Glas). Bangu, possibly, means " the high-
sounding dear one."
The lich-bell has a long history. Without going back to the pre-
Christian Roman custom, in the Bayeux tapestry, where there is
a representation of the funeral of Edward the Confessor, the corpse
is accompanied by two boys each ringing hand-beUs. Chaucer,
in the " Pardoneres Tale," makes its tinklings scare some of the
young wantons of his day. It is stiU rung in many places on the
Continent. So at Oxford before the body of any University official ;
and at Aberyst-wyth, MachynUeth and Carnarvon, stiU, or recently.
We have references to its use on the Welsh border. The attendance
of the Chester City bell-man at the head of funerals survived far into-

XIV INTRODUCTION.
the eighteenth century ; and in the As.sembly Book of the Corporation,
under 1540, are stated the " ffees and p'fetts " he is " to haue for
goinge w'th the beU." The Ludlow Church Wardens in 1555-6
paid " Phelyp tynker for the mendynge of the corps belle — xijd."
The Reformers banned it — or attempted. Grindal in his
Injunctions of 1571 ordered burials to be " -without ringing of
any hand-beUs " ; and Bishop Middleton of St. David's by his
Injunctions of 1583 also tried to put a stop to it : —
" Item, that the Clark nor his deputie, do carie about the To-wne, a
little bell called the Sainctes bell before the Buriall, after the vse of
Popishe superstition " (Appendix E to Second Report of the Royal
Commission on Ritual, 1868, p. 427). But Archdeacon Tenison in his
Visitation Returns, 1710, under Carmarthen (St. Peter's), could stOl
say — " The day on which a corps is to be buried, a hand bell is rung
about tho streets to give notice of the burial, and afterwards 'tis rung
before the corps to the churchyard door."
These bells are continually mentioned in the Church Terriers,
oftenest as simply " a hand-bell," but others state its specific pur
pose. Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd (Terrier 1729) had " a little BeU to
be rung before the Corps," which is there still, with the date 1723.
Llangynhafal (T. 1729) possessed " a Bier-beU," which is stUl there,
and is probably the " Uttle bell " for which the Church Wardens
paid 7s. in 1676. Rhuddlan (T. 1749) had " one smaU beU to caU
in and another small Corps bell." Llangar (T. 1753) had " a smaE
Bell w"** was formerly rung before funerals all the way as they
came from the House to the Church-yard." Caerwys has one dated
1703. Gwyddelwern had " a smaU hand beU " in 1685, and the
Llandyrnog Wardens in 1688 paid 2s. Qd. for " a little beU." These
are a sample from the Vale of Clwyd only. They are stUl found else
where; e.g., the three Breconshire parishes, Llanfihangel Cwmdu
(dated 1640), CrickhoweU, and Llanveigan. The Rev. Lewis Morris,
Vicar of Llansadwrn with Llanwrda, informs us that nothing is
now known locally of either the " Bangu " or the custom.
No doubt after the Reformation, if not before, the sacring bell
generaUy became the Uch-bell. We know from Cardinal Pole's
Articles of 1557 (Wilkins, " Concilia," iv, p. 170) that " a little
sacring bell " was in use as the " visiting " or " houseUing " beU,
rung as the priest carried the Host to the sick. There were two
bells, the sanctus (saints', saunce) and the sacring, which are

INTRODUCTION. XV
continually confused, owing to churches frequently possessing
but one or other, which had to serve the purpose of both. But
correctly the sanctus was the small bell hung in an external bell-
cot over the chancel (or with the others) ; and the sacring beU,
a smaU hand-bell (tintinnabulum) placed on the altar steps and rung
inside at the Sacring or Elevation. The sanctus is stUl found in
biany a church tower in Wales, and known as the call or minute
beU. In Welsh it is " y gloch fach," or " y gloch alw," but formerly
it was also known as " crair " (Lhuyd, ParochiaUa," i, pp. 14, 82),
and " canu crair '^' means to toU the passing-beU. From this the
folk-lore " beU in the ear," or " death-bell," is caUed " y gloch
fach " (N.W.), or " y gloch angladd " (S.W.).
The " smaU hand-beU " was put to other uses than that of a lich-
beU. The Caerwys Wardens in 1677 paid 6d. " for ringing y^ little
beU before p'cession," i.e., the Rogationtide perambulation ; and
the parish clerk used it when making his " proclamation " in the
churchyard after morning service. But it was bathos when the
" little Ting-tang BeU " (tintinnabulum) of the Kerry Church
Inventory of 1765 was employed by the sexton to wake up sleepers
during service, as Bishop Thirlwall tells us (" Letters Literary and
Theological," pp. 185-6).

XVI

INDEX TO COUNTIES.

Anglesey 
History of Beaumaris
BrecknockCardigan ...
Carmarthen
Carnarvojj
Denbigh . . .
Flint Glamorgan
Hereford ...
MerionethMonmouth.
MontgomeryPembroke [Published in 1811]
Radnor 

Pages
255-275, 332-333, 349-350
 275-3,06
 ... 16-28,352
 6-12
1-5, 12-16, 54-77, 336-346, 353-^54
4.5-50, 158-254, 307-331, 333-335, 351
134-157, 335-336, 351-352.
 140-150
... 346-349,354-355
 28-32
10-45, 50-53, 86-133, 352
 33-40,78-86
 19-20

TOURS IN WALES.

Carmarthenshire (1804).*
Estuary of Tq-wy.
On one side are the Castles of Llanstephan, commanding
the entrance ; higher up, on the same side, the Ruins of Green
Castle ; and still nearer Carmarthen was the Castle of Rhyd
y Gors, of which in the old Chronicles frequent mention is made,
but of which very faint, if any. Vestiges now remain, a mansion
house having been erected on the site, and perhaps built with
the remains of the old Castle.
On the other side there seemed to have been a chain of small
Forts or Speculce commanding the different reaches of the
River, such as that which stood near the spot which Towy
Castle, the seat of the Rev* M"^ Evans, now occupies, in the
Deeds relating thereto called Castell Gwithped, which M' Evans
very judiciously supposes to be a corruption of Castell Gwybiaid,
viz., the Castle of the Spies.
On the Carmarthen side of the Peebwr there are evident
remains of another, and some more might perhaps be traced.
When it took the name of Green Castle, and how it came
by it, no mention is made anywhere. By what remains of it,
it does not appear to have been a place of much strength or
much of a castellated building.
Pensarn, the Causeway so called, leading to the Bridge of
Carmarthen, evidently points out the Roman road between
Leucarum — Loughor — and Maridunum. Wherever the name
Sam occurs you may look for a Roman road. Perhaps Trimsarn,
which lies in that direction, may serve to point out its course.
Croes Ceiliog between Carmarthen and Kidwelly may be one
of the four Crosses which bounded the PrivUeges of the Borough
of Kadwelly, as mentioned in its Charter. Croes Askwrn is a
corruption of Cors Eslum, it being a morassy spot.
*MS. 1.22.

2 ' tours in -wales
Llandeilo.
Saw Dynefor Park and the Church of Llan Deveisant situated
in a most beautiful nook of the Park, with two fine Yew Trees
in the Churchyard. Dynefor House, and two or three more
Houses in Llandeilo, make the whole of the Parish, a clear
proof that the spot now occupied by the Park was covered by
a large Town appendant to the Royal residence of the Princes
of South Wales ; and indeed the daily appearance of fragments
of buildings dug up in almost every part confirms it.
Mr. Beynon the Clergyman, between the west end of the
Church and the WaU of the Churchyard, fell on the remains of
ancient buildings, and supposes the present Church built on the
site of a Roman Temple, as it is probable the Romans had a
station there ; and indeed the part of a Roman road on Bettws
Mountain, which seemed to lead from this place towards Neath,
almost establishes the conjecture. That piece of road is caUed
Milltir fain, the narrow Mile, but I rather think the Milltir faen,
the Stone Mile, which exactly characterizes it. A Roman road
appears running parallel to the present Turnpike road from
Llandeilo to Carmarthen. Coins found there (at Llwyn y
ffortun) in a pot. Another portion of road discovered between
Llandeilo and Llandovery, near Llwyn y brain. A Farm near
called Ystrad ; M"^ Beynon thinking with me that the name of
Ystrad generally refers to a Stratum or paved Road.
At Llanfair ar y Bryn, Mr. Beynon told me, that Mr. Lewis,
the late Vicar, looking for Materials to build with, fell on a heap
of rubbish in a corner of his garden which proved to be a heap
of Roman bricks. Some of them inscribed with the number of
the Legion (Legio Secunda, I suppose) quartered there.
Saw a stone with a Roman inscription in a garden at LlandeUo,
brought from Trecastle Mountain.
A place near Danyrallt called Llys Brychan, where nothing
appears above ground but a Cottage ; but on digging lately
a great deal of very ancient masonry found, and a stone with
a figure of a Lamb on it, which appeared to have been cast in
some soft clay indurated by fire. Perhaps here Brychan
Brycheiniog might have had a palace or some occasional resi
dence. Mr. Beynon shewed me a Coin (silver), very bold impression,
found in the parish of Penboyr, near the Teivy Side, at a place
called by the Welsh name of Red Breast ; but he thinks it ought
to be Bron Rhufain, which might account for the discovery of

CARMARTHENSHIRE 3
Roman Coins there ; where there might be a station, . between
Menapia — St. David's — and Loventium.
In Golden Grove Park a tree is shewn on which it is said
Oliver Cromwell rested his Gun to kill a Buck for Dinner, the
tradition being that in his way from Glamorganshire to besiege
Pembroke, he with a Party came to Golden Grove to take
Lord Carbery, a great Royalist ; but he, having had notice of it,
retired to a Tenant's house in the Mountains, leaving his Lady
to entertain the Protector ; and on her saying there was no
Venison in the House, but that she would send out to have a
Buck killed, he said he would go out and see the Diversion, and
rested his piece on that tree.
Cradock, Lord of Nangle and Newton in Roos, was given
the Castle of Rhyd y Gors and Derllys Hundred by Henry
the 7"^, who wa.s killed and dispossessed of his Castle &c. by
Gwgan ap Meyrick. A Son or Descendant of this man was
Chief Justice of England.
One of Mr. David Edwards's Ancestors used to date his letters
Rhyd y gors Castle, though no traces remain to this day.
Mrs. Saunders of Pentre, now living, near a Hundred, remembers
Sir R'^ Steele when she was a young girl at the boarding school,
Carmarthen, which in those days was a very respectable one.
She was once by, when Lady Steele, who was a very irritable
high spirited woman, threw a glass of wine into the Knight's
face, which wet his Cravat hanging down, as was the fashion ;
but he said no more than tell his servant John to bring him a
fresh cravat.
Frood Water is a wonderful spring which issues from a Lime
stone Rock. The entrance to it is narrow, but widens as you
go on. It turns a Mill for Corn and a Sawing Mill within 20 yards
of its apparent Source, and two other Mills within the space
of half a mile ; never freezing in Winter or failing in Summer.
Saw a little above it, near the Ridge of Limestone Rocks
running from East to West in the County of Carmarthen, the
ruins of a very neat Chapel ; the shell pretty entire, a neat
Tower with Battlements, and a handsome Archway leading to
the chancel. CaUed Capel Duddgen.
In the Vale visited Llangendeyrn Church, a respectable-
buUding in a neat village. In it several monuments of the
Terracoed and Glyn and Gwempae FamiUes, and of other
Families of distinction of that Parish, which was so well inhabited
in the memory of an old woman lately living that she remembers
seven coaches there on a Sunday. The most remarkable thing
b2

4 TOURS IN WALES
I saw there was the Stone Pulpit, an Excrescence from the
South WaU, and entered into from a Stone Stair Case behind.
In the Churchyard a Tombstone of the late Vicar, one Williams
of Penyrheol, who boasts his descent from the great Warrior
Sir James Williams, in Henry S'^^'s time, who was dubbed
Knight Banneret on the Field. Sir James Williams, who was
of Pant Howel, near Meidrym, occurs as Sheriff very early on
the list for Carmarthenshire as well as Pembrokeshire.
From Llandeilo to Carmarthen.
Looked minutely near Llwyn y ffortun for the remains of the
Roman Road said to have been formerly seen there by Mr.
Beynon, but discovered not the smallest trace of it there, yet
thought it appeared for about 100 yards running parallel to the
present Turnpike, but a little nearer the River, -within three
miles of Abergwili. Priory, Carmarthen.
By the remains of the Walls surrounding the Precinct, it
seems to have occupied a large space. Part of the Priory
Church in and about a small House near the Lime Kiln at the
lower end of the ground. I presume the building over the
Gateway leading from Priory Street may be ascribed to the
family of Leison, to whom it might have been granted at the
Dissolution. One of that name, and of the Priory, occurs as
High Sheriff for the Co. of Carmarthen prior to the Reign of
Queen Elizabeth. On each side of the gateway there is in a
niched Entablature a Coat of the Royal Arms with the Fleurs
de lis the first coat, a circumstance that puzzles me to discover
the meaning of. Observed stuck on a Wall of the Houses
belonging to the Works at Whitland an Escutcheon of exactly
the same pattern, with the bearing alike. There was on one
side a Portcullis, on the other a Rose.
May 10«>, 1804.— S* Clear's Church. Nothing within worth
observation but a Saxon Gateway of great antiquity leading
to the Church. A monument of one Howell, Rector of S* Clear's,
who it says was in the year of trial, 1691, deprived of all that
he could not with a safe Conscience hold — he being a Non-
Juror. May 11«'.— From Carmarthen to Lampeter. Went to Pen-
cader. Saw there a point of land, precipitous on every side, at

CARMARTHENSHIRE 5
the foot of the Hill, with a very large mound at one end, and
a Foss about it ; opposite to which, on a rocky projection, there
appeared a sort of Intrenchment crowning the summit. A
young man at the Village told me they had found Leaden Balls
there (which I can hardly credit), and said most superstitiously
that in the great Mound or Castellum there was a Gold Table.
Could they be permitted to dig for it by the Proprietor, Mr.
Hughes of Tregib ? Similar stories told of many old Castles,
as of Wiston, in particular, where the tradition is that they had
often attempted to dig, but that they had been prevented bj^
violent thunder and lightning the instant they began. No
Coins or Armour found ever.
Roman Road.
At the New Imi saw a bit of the Road which, from its bearing
from S.W. to N.E., must have led from Maridunum — Carmarthen
— to Loventium — Llannio — which appeared a faint ridge owing
to its having been robbed of its stone — the Country not abounding
with stones fit for building. In a Corn field saw the Ridge
where it ran covered with small stones and small Pebbles and
Gravel from the Bed of the river, evidently carried there.
Observed it, as we went on, in several places ; but particularly
in one grass field, where the ridge appeared more distinct. We
heard of it as far as Pencarreg, by Gwrdy ; so that it is probable
it kept the East side of the Teivy till it joined the Road leading
from Loventium across Llanvair Mountain to Cayo. Likewise
heard of it some miles to the S. West of the New Inn, and I make
no doubt, on Enquiry, but it might be traced to Carmarthen.
New Inn.
A new house lately opened, belonging to a Mr. Saunders of
[blankl, who was a Taylor in York buildings, and has retired
to a very neat house surrounded with young Plantations, and
a highly cultivated Farm. In the village where the Inn is,
which consists of only three or four Houses, there is a Country
shop on a very large scale.
Pencarreg Church
has a singular West End, consisting of a sort of Steeple with
two open Niches for Bells and a Porch. Seemed by a large
Arched Gateway now stopped, on the North side, that there

TOURS IN WALES

had been an Aisle stretching out on that side. The Church is
situated on a narrow rocky Ridge, to the S. West of whicli
rises a beautiful conical Hill crowned with an old Encamp
ment. Below the Church, in the VaUey to the North, is a beautiful
Lake a mile round, but without Fish, which is a most surprising
circumstance. I passed Dolgwm, a very retired old Mansion
belonging to  Vaughan ; and after a most pleasant Day's
ride reached Lampeter about a quarter before six, prepared for
Dinner, tho' we had a damper of eggs and bacon at the New Inn,
and a Draught of good ale.
May 12**^ [1804]. — Set off early for Llannio Isa, the ancient
Loventium, a farm once belonging to Mr. Johnes of Hafod, but
lately sold to Smith, a Banker in London. Loventium occupied
a gently rising projection in the Vale of Teivy, seemingly marked
by a sloping boundary between it and the River and moory
ground. All the fields, every hedge and pile of rubbish, pregnant
with Bricks and Tiles of every kind, as likewise Cement and pieces
of pottery. Several Inscriptions.*
A piece of the Roman Road pointed out as passing near, if
not through, the City in a Northward direction, as if pointing
to Penal in Merionethshire. As a proof of the consequence of
the place formerly, all the neighbouring places are referred to
Llannio, such as the Farm on the Hill, which is called Llannio
Uchaf ; a Mill near called Llannio Mill ; nay, the Tumulus or
Castellum on the road to, and within two miles of, Tregaron,
is called Tomen Llannio, where was lately found by digging a
very ancient Pickaxe, which I bought for a shiUing, and bore in
Triumph to Tregaron. On my road, a Man driving a Cart,
after I had passed him about a hundred yards, called out to me,
" Where did you find that Pickaxe ? It is mine. I lost such
a one on the road." An audacious claim of a thing perhaps
1,500 years old.
At Tregaron had a snap of Eggs and Bacon, and a draught of
pleasant light ale. Met the Clergyman as I entered the Church
yard of Tregaron, but found him a low, stupid creature. On
a stone inserted in the wall of the Southside, and evidently
brought from Llannio or some more ancient place, found an
* See Arch. Camb., 1873, pp. 115-6, and West-ivood, Lapidarium WalUai,
pp. 142-3. Eenton here gives a rough slietch of the Llannio Isaf " Emiius "
stone. This is figured and described in West-ivood. — Ed

CARDIGANSHIRE 7
Inscription ; and nearer to the East end, the same side, another.*
The Church has a large well built Tower, and is curiously situated
on a little rising Knoll projecting into the River.
Hence we rode on the East side of Teifi to Llanddewi Brefi,
the famous spot where the Synod was held for confuting the
Pelagian Heresy. The Church is said to be built on the very
spot which, with most miraculous throes, grew under St. David's
feet. At the opening of a retired Vale environed -with high
barren hills, about quarter of a mile or less above the Church,
is Foelallt, a mansion of some note in former days, but shewing
nothing now of its pristine consequence.
The Church is a large shell only (for within it has nothing
of sacred furniture besides the Pulpit), and once consisted of a
double Nave separated by a range of columns, a Chancel, and
a cross North Aisle. The Tower is large and well built. The
few windows that are open have no glass or shutter ; and the
whole inside exhibits a picture of the most scandalous neglect,
disgraceful to a Christian Country.
At the West Entrance, on the right hand side, stands a stone
seven feet high, inscribed on the outer side with a cross and
some Characters. Over a Window, as a lintern,t another stone,
removed of late years, I presume, with an Inscription. Another
at the East entrance into the Churchyard. J
Leaving Llanddewi Church and its very miserable village,
rode as far as Llanfair Clydoge, a Mansion of high note about a
century ago, but now in ruins, as well as the Church near, the
Chancel Window of which seemed to have no glass in it. The
whole Landscape round, being fairly stripped of its Woods,
exhibited a most sterile and inhospitable appearance. Cross
Llanfair Bridge, and, after a fatiguing ride through a narrow,
bad road, reach Lampeter.
May 13"*, Sunday. — Rode to Llannio. Saw a large mass of
Roman Cement. Then went on to trace the Roman Road that
* The two stones have siace been removed to Goodrich Court, near Ross.
They read enb-vtri and potbnina MVLnER, respectively. See Arch. Camb.,
1878, pp. 349 ; Rhys, Welsh Philology, 1879, pp. 204, 380 ; Westwood,
Lapid. Wall. pp. 143-4. Fenton gives sketches of them, but Westwood
has them in his plate facing p. 148. — En.
t =LinteI. Linterel, Union, and lintin also occur ; but they are now all
obsolete, except in the dialects. Lintern is the form common in Pembroke
shire (South), the author's native county. — En.
% For the various inscribed and other stones at Llanddewi, see West-
-wood, Lapid. Wall., pp. 139-42. — En.

O TOURS IN WALES
led Northward ; but though my guide at setting out said he could
shew it me in several places in the course of four miles, yet I
found he measured by the old Welsh standard, and his four was
eight ; so I turned back, and overtook a Mr. Jones of Llannio
uchaf, who told me that at TaUiirion Rhos, near Lledrod, 500
yards of perfect causeway could be seen.
After dinner, in company with the Vicar of Lampeter, Mr.
Williams, who dined with us, walked out to see the Roman Road,
which evidently crossed the River somewhere near Pencarreg,
taking its course across the Common to the East of Lampeter
towards Loventium, and most satisfactorily discovered it, par
ticularly for above a hundred yards, through a moory part of
the Common, overrun everywhere with rushes but in the track
of the Road, the stratum ha-ving rendered it too dry for rushes
to grow on it. At the Bank of the River, worn off with the flood,
saw its nature, which was a pavement of stones covered with
a layer of about 5 inches of River Gravel. The River seemed
to have altered its course, and made an interruption in its pro
gress for some little way, but caught it again beyond here and
there. Finished our pursuit for that day. Returned to tea. Saw on
my return from my morning Ride a curious encampment at a
place called Olwyn, and a curious hollow on the East Side,
which I am told will not hold any water.
Lampeter Castle consists of a double Entrenchment to the
South West, and a Castellum or large Tumulus at the North
East end. Armour said to have been dug up there about
twenty years ago.
Mr. Williams presented Sir Richard Hoare with the impression
of the Abbot of Strata Florida's seal, whose name was Walter.
May 14"'. — Set out in company with the Vicar of Lampeter
to AUt yr Odin. Near Llanwnnen Church, observe one of the
Castellums (large Tumuli) which are more frequent in Cardigan
shire than in any other part, and chiefly near the Teifi. AUt yr
Odin is pleasantly situated in a very retired Valley watered by
the Caledwr, commonly called Clettwr, on which stands the
Castle — mentioned Page 170 of last Edition of Wynne's History
of Wales.
Mr. Lloyd of AUt yr Odin received me very civilly. Shewed
me several fragments, and Books of his genealogical CoUection
relating to Pembrokeshire, which he has kindly promised me the
use of. Had some refreshment, and then, accompanied by the

CARDIGANSHIRE y
Gentleman of the house, was shewn a most beautiful Tumulus
situated on the South side of the River near a fordable place,
called Tommen Rhyd Owen. Mr. Lloyd has planted it with
silver fir. I longed to have had Mr. Cunnington there to have
got into its Bowels.
Pursued our Journey towards Llandyssil to call on Doctor
Stephenson, whom I often met in London and elsewhere about
sixteen years ago. Passed by Pencoed y Foel, a vast Conical
Hill crowned with an ancient circular Camp, which, from the
New Inn, the opposite side of the River, at least five or six miles
off, appears of an immense extent ; but on approaching it,
contracts to a compass infinitely smaller to the eye than it
appeared from the distance I first saw it at. No account of it
in any History by the name it now has ; but I was informed
by Mr. Lloyd that the district of the County in which the hill
stands is called Gwenninog uch Cerdin,* and there is mention
of Castell Gwenninog in Cerdin, which probably must have been
this. Wind down an intricate road into the Vale of Llandyssil
where the Teifi takes. Many beautiful bends between Hills
finely wooded, and frequently broken by rocky charms. Came
to Llandyssil, and crossed the ford to Old Castle, formerly called
Do] Llan, the seat of Dr. Stephenson, who was from home. Left
my name there, and rode across his Farm, which he seems to
manage in the English manner, his wheat being planted in DriUs,
and a large field preparing for Lucern. His farmyard of great
extent on the summit, and in the centre of his farm. Just above
his house on a projecting Knoll appeared the Vestiges of an old
Encampment, and from one end, the most entire, seemed to be
of an oblong figure.
After leaving his farm, and passing a moory bit of ground,
through which went a rising road, very like Roman, at the foot
of a wild precipitous rocky Eminence overhanging the Teify and
commanding up and down the vale, crowned with an encamp
ment surrounded by Entrenchments of loose stones, seven or
eight lines in some places on the river side. The Area on the
Summit in circumference 468 paces. There was a well in the
Centre stopped in the memory of man, which it is supposed was
supplied by pipes from a Spring on an opposite Hill above
Wern y Maccwy. It is called Castell Gwrtheyrn, and supposed
to be the retreat of Vortigern.
* Correctly, Gwynionydd uch (uwoh) Cerdin — Llanstephan MS. 116,
p. 120.— Ed.

10 TOURS IN -WALES
Left this subUme scenery for the softer one of the Vale leading
through and at the foot of a most beautiful hanging wood of
Birch and Oak, to the snug and neat Glebe House of the ReV^
M"^ WiUiams, Vicar of Llanfihangel Eroth,* where Mrs. Williams,
a very respectable Gentlewoman, pressed in a strain of Hospi
tality, rare now-a-days, to take some refreshment, and got us
a Veal Cutlet nicely dressed, with cold Ham and Tenby pickled
oysters ; with the best table beer and finest ale I ever drank,
but too strong. Mr. Williams was gone to a Court Leet, but was
sent for home, and returned just as we had finished tea and
were going to mount our horses. He insisted on our staying
another half-hour, which we did. I found him a pleasant,
sensible man. I gave him my prospectus, and he kindly invited
me to take a bed there on my return. He told me of the Inscrip
tion at his Church, which is as follows . . . .f ; a circumstance,
together with Mr. Beynon's account of Coins having been
found in the Parish of Penboyr, that induces me to think that
if the Via Flandrica should prove to be Roman, it might have
taken that direction onward towards Pencarreg, and fallen in
with the Road crossing the River there, and united have gone to
Loventium. After leaving the hospitable Glebe, passed by the Church, and
near it crossed a fordable part of the Teify under Waun Ifor, a
seat of — Bowen, Esq''. Thence by way of High Mead, passing
a Knoll close by the Teifi of a singular appearance, called Crug y
Wiel. CaUed at High Mead on Mrs. Evans (a sister of Sir Watkin
Lewes). Drank a glass of Wine and ate a biscuit there. Then on
through her beautiful plantations, over a charming Road, to Lam
peter, where I arrived, glad to rest myself, about 9 o'clock, where
Sir Richard and I exchanged accounts of our day's Excursion.
* This parish-name is now usuall5' written LI. ar Arth, leading one to
suppose that the Churcli is situated on the River Aith (cf. Llandde-\vi Aber
Arth) ; but this is not so. The appellative possibly stands for lorwerth;
and the name is given as LI. lorwerth in Panton 21 S. 68, Lhuydiatia in the
Appendix, Mijr. Arch., p. 746, Meddygon Myddfai. 1861, p. 298, and
elsewhere. The earliest known spelling is that in the Taxatio of 1291,
p. 272 — Lanvyhangel Orarth. This occurs also in The Episcopal Begisters
of Ihe Dio. of Si. DaviiPs, 1917, under the years 1401 and 1517 (pp. 240,
822), Additional MS. 14,871, fo. 366 b (1617), &c. In the Episc. Beg.
under 1.514 (p. 808) it is Yerrorth. The local pronmiciation is leroth
(frequently formerly the -\vritten form), or hke it. The Glamorgan sur
name Yorath is usually regarded as representing lorwerth. — Ed.
t Space, but no inscription. It reads Hic iacit vlcagnvs fivs sbnO-
MAOLi. Rhys, Welsh Philology, 1879, p. 387 ; Arch. Camb., 1878,
p 34.5 ; Westwood, Lapid. Wall, pp. 87-8. — Ed.

CARDIGANSHIRE 11
May 15'*^. — Sir Richard went afishing, and I mounted my
horse, crossed the River Dulas at Millfield, and ascended the
Summit of Mynydd AUt Goch. Examined the first Gaer, which
in circuit measured 476 paces. Had one entrance to the South
West, and another to the North East. A fine view from it of
the Expansive Vale below Lampeter, and of the Vales each side
of the ridge. I really think those singly entrenched circular
camps were for to collect the women, children, and cattle into
in times of alarm, as being placed on heights generally difficult
of access, whilst the warriors kept the low grounds, as being
most liable to the inroads of the enemy.
On my return was mortified to hear there was another Gaer
further on the Ridge, but in a lower situation, represented by
M"^ Williams as having several small Tumuli and Carneddau
round it.
In my way home passed that singular looking rising in the Vale
that caught our eye on Saturday, and' discovered that what
appeared to have been some outwork of an Encampment was a
Water Course, for the purpose of bringing water to a small
triangular pond situated in the midst of a Knoll connected with
Brook, formerly belonging to Millfield. So cautious persons
should be with respect to what may be imagined to be very
ancient from its distant appearance. Incredulity is essential to
constitute a good Antiquary.
Examined a second time the entrenchment at Olwent, but
after enquiry of the farmer, an old intelligent man, could get
no material intelligence to ascertain its history or date. He said
he had found a quern stone there, and that there was a tradition
that Olwen, whose name the place bears, was a most celebrated
beauty, daughter of a Prince of North Wales, and was carried off
by a Prince of South Wales, and pursued to that spot, where a
great battle was fought. The farmer likewise told me that at the
foot of the Hill near his house there is a fine Spring caUed Ffynnon
Geitho, which he remembers inclosed by three flags, one on each
side, and the other above, inscribed with some characters, which
were carried to Peterwell, the mansion of the Landlord.
After I alighted from my excursion I met the Vicar, and walked
up with him to see a projecting point of a hill to the Northward
of the Church, caUed, for what reason, Plas y beddau.
Saw a singular semicircular mound of Earth at the back of the
Church, which an ingenious Stranger, as I was told by the Vicar,
suggested might have been a heathen theatre, to purge the
abomination of which the present Church was founded on the
Spot.

12 TOURS IN WALES
Entered the Church. Saw a curious Font, remains of a Rood
Loft, and a singular arched niche in the WaU of the Chancel, with a
round Wall under it, and a considerable hoUow within, which I
apprehend was for auricular Confession. The monuments have
nothing in them ancient or elegant. Chiefly to the Millfield
Family. A curious tablet to the memory of Daniel Evans of
Peterwell, a Sequestrator in the Protector's time, and a great
oppressor. The Church has no tower. In the Churchyard, which
is large, there are a few very old yew trees. A very large Parish,
including the small borough town of Lampeter ; yet very few
fresh graves, a sign of a healthy situation, yet lying low.
May 16*'\ — Set off from Lampeter in high spirits, the weather,
contrary to our expectation, looking so fine, and ascended very
high ground rarely the ridge between the Teifi and Dulas.
Examined the Camp I did yesterday, and farther on the same
ridge a much larger, with a double ditch, and divided through the
middle by a high Rampart. Remains of walls near, as if there had
been a farmhouse there in former days, the whole circuit appearing
to have been under tillage.
Proceeded on our journey towards Llanfair Bridge, and to the
Left, as we turned down, were struck with something like the
appearance of the Roman Road we were in quest of, leading from
Pencarreg towards Llannio, but did not then more minutely
investigate it, leaving that for M^ Williams to do, who kindly
promised his assistance for that purpose. As we approached
Llanfair Bridge, we saw from the precipitousness of the hill, at
the foot of which the Teifi runs, and the great berid it took to
the East, on account of a high ridge, that it must have deserted
the course of the river, and could not have taken any other
direction than through the lane where we saw what looked very
like it.
Crossed Llanfair Bridge, at which point it is probable the other
road towards Cayo diverged, as on Llanfair mountain we saw it
most distinctly for near a mile passing by Bwlch Blaen Twrch,
and by a specula on which was pitched on end a stone about six
feet high, that being common with the Romans as directors,
particularly over mountains, where without such guides the
Roads might be easily lost. And as a further proof of its being
the old Roman Road, Sir Richard Hoare remarked each side
numerous pits and excavations, similar to those in WUtshire
and elsewhere in the vicinity of Roman Roads, out of which
they dug the stones to make the roads with. Besides, aU

CARMARTHENSHIRE 13
the peasants we asked knew perfectly the course of Sarn Helen,
as they call it, a course the present road to Cayo principally
foUows. At Cayo alighted, and saw a prodigious Cavern, out of which
the Romans had dug minerals. The whole Hill for a great extent
broke up and excavated, forming a most romantick picturesque
scene. The Vale there very beautiful where the Twrch empties itself
into the Cothy. D61 y Cothy, the seat of — Johnes, Esq',
stands pleasantly embosomed with pretty plantations, as does
Brwynant, the seat of the Rev. Mr. Lloyd, backed by several
singularly shaped hills.
Rain coming on we hurried to get shelter at the village of
Cayo, situated in a most romantick little dingle about a mile
from the Mines and watered by the Annell. The Church stands
on a pretty projecting Knoll. It consists of a very handsome
well built tower and a double Nave and a Chancel, but with a
roof scandalously out of repair, and the inside exhibiting a most
disgraceful appearance. In the Chancel a neat little Marble
Monument to the memory of the Rev. Mr. Lloyd of Brynbran.
His Escutcheon had the Millfield Arms on it.
Whilst we stopped at the hedge Ale House at Cayo, and ate
each of us a mouthful of bread and a draught of beer, we found
an intelligent man of the name of Davies, and were told by
him that on fields in the Valley of Cothy, bricks had been found
often, which was a clear evidence of there having been some
Roman Station there for the purpose of the mines. Besides,
Paulinus's Sepulchral Stone at Llanwrthwl is another proof of it,
though from its having a Hic Jacet it savours of a later date than
pure Roman.
Finding no likelihood of the weather growing better, we
mounted and made the best of our way towards Llandovery,
catching a peep to the right of numerous beautiful Vallies well
wooded, and to the left of wild hills and mountains, and arrived
at the Castle Inn, where everything promised comfort.
N.B. — In descending from Bwlch blaen Twrch we saw the river
Twrch, from its name and from the appearance of its having
shifted its course frequently and eaten away its sides, a most
formidable and dangerous Mountain stream in Winter, as the
Ford we crossed, though the Ri-ver was very low, seemed
deep. Pass Llanygroes [Llanycrwys] Church at the Foot of the
Mountains we passed, to the right amidst Yew Trees, with no

14 TOURS IN WALES
Chancel Window glazed, and greatly, if we might judge at that
distance, out of repair.
The Roman Road we traced bore as nearly from S.W. to N.E.
as possible, till we came to the Bwlch, and then it took a South
South East course to Cayo.
May n^^. — At Llandovery. Breakfasted most sumptuously,
the Bread and Butter being admirable. Saw Col. Lewis and
Mrs. Lewis of Llanychaeron returning from Bath. He stopped his
chaise politely to shew Sir Richard Hoare and me the new Map
of Cardiganshire by Carey and surveyed by one Singer, who
appears to have been much too sparing of his names. I was
sorry to find it had not been surveyed by a Welshman. In
short, it is a pretty map to the eye, the Mountains and Hills being
finely shaded and marked. Several Rivers not specified, which I
think a great fault, as no River ought to be left out of a Map
which has a name.
We rode out as far as Llwyn y brain to see if we could discover
anything of the Roman Road ; but there could be no doubt of
its taking the exact course of the present Turnpike. Quere, if
the farm called Ystrad, close on the edge of the Road, indicates
anything that may bear any Relation to Stratum or a paved
way.* Returned the upper way to avoid Fords to Llandovery.
Saw the beautiful situation of Llanfair ar y Bryn in various
views, and all charming. A distant view of it. Sir Richard said,
was best, as it would admit of a grander back ground.
When we alighted. Major Williams poUtely informed us that
he had sent for the Clerk of the Church, the only man who could
give us any information respecting what had been seen or dis
covered at the Roman Station of Llanfair ar y Bryn, adding that
he knew the person who now had all the Museum which the Rev''
Mr. Lewis, late Vicar of Llanfair ar y Bryn, had collected, viz.,
a Brick inscribed with Leg. II Augusti, &c., &c., &c., which he
promised to procure me by the time of the Assizes.
The old Clerk brought us to the Church to shew us a stone on
the floor just at the entrance of the Church inscribed with some
embossed Characters, but not legible. The Church of Llandingad
consisted of a double Nave, Chancel, and Tower. Was clean
within, but had no monument or tomb within of any kind. The
door very old, having carved work fastened on the upper part
* YMrrid. O. Welsh istrat, the lowland along a river, a dale, which is
cognate with Irish and Gaelic srath, and possibly English strand, is not
directly related to Latin stratum,, strata — whence Irish strath, and English
street — which would have yielded in Welsh ystrawd. — Ed.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 15
of it, with two escutcheons, one fallen off, and the other of Oak
carved, bearing the three Ravens within the Garter ; so that it
is probable the door was placed there at the expence of Sir Rhys
ap Thomas. The old Clerk furnished us with very particular
directions how to fall in with the remains of the Roman Road
leading by Glan Bran towards Buellt, which I hope we shall live
and be able to pursue tomorrow.
Walked into Llanfair ar y Bryn to examine that before dinner,
lest we might be disappointed by weather or any other circum
stance in the evening. We clearly traced the Roman Camp,
and found in every field, garden, and pile of rubbish, numerous
fragments of Bricks, e-vidently Roman. Vide the bit I have
preserved, part of a sudatory. Nothing could have been more
happily placed than this Station, either for beauty, shelter,
observation, or water, having the Dyfry and the Bran on one
side, and the Towy on the other.
Mr. Edward Jones the Attorney told me that, in making the
new Turnpike under the Church, they found vast quantities of
different bricks, and a great quantity of Charcoal and other
marks of fire, the tradition being that it was consumed by fire,
and that it was called Tref Goch from its red appearance, perhaps
brick being unknown then to the Britons.
Major Williams said he remembered a Pot with some Coins
being dug up, and a Lamp, which now a Col. Macleary has and
which he promised me a sight of.
On our way home, thought we perceived a ridge running through
the meadows pointing towards sufiicient to induce us to think it
the track of the Roman Road leading that way, the investigation
of which we have reserved till after dinner. A labourer of the
place told us that in the Meadows, the Trecastle side, the Hay
in parts makes a very different appearance, as if the Roman Road
took that way towards the Gaer in Brecknockshire.
Walked out in the evening to the Castle, which did not appear
to occupy a large spot, but was strong and commanding, by the
large fragments lying in several places. Should apprehend that
it must have been garrisoned in the CivU Wars, and that it had
experienced the effect of Canon. A Bastion to the S.W. finely
overgro-wn with Ivy. A most charming prospect from it,
particularly up towards Glanbran, and down the Towy, which,
as well as on the other Rivers Tributary, and which unite near
Llandovery with the Towy, are subject to violent floods, and have
made a perfect beach of the whole valley from near the present
Bridge to a mUe below the Town, from which, unless you go up

16 TOURS IN WALES
as far as the Bridge, you can't regain the Turnpike Road leading
towards Llandilo without crossing three or four fords, the Towy
taking so many directions.
Went to investigate more minutely what appeared to us
something like a Roman Road ; but we could not venture on a
nearer approach to pronounce it such.
Saw the Volunteers go through their evolutions, which they
did wonderfully for the short time they had been out. A veteran
Officer Major commanded them. Though there are 500 quartered
in so small a place as Llandovery, not the least noise or riot
heard. Returned, and enjoyed tea and conversation after our walk.
Mr. Edward Jones talked of there having been an Abbey at
Llanfair ar y Bryn, but of that there is not the smallest trace or
evidence. May 18*'^ [1804]. — Left Llandovery about half past nine in
the morning for Builth. My horse fell on the pavement at the
end of the Town, but providentially I was only bruised a little
on my knee and ankle, and a muscle of my neck a little affected.
0 Lord, how can I be sufficiently thankful to Thee for Thy
mercy in delivering me so often from danger, and preserving my
limbs in many falls which I have had. May I every day be more
sensible of Thy great goodness.
Our great object being to discover the Roman Road that led
from Llanfair ar y bryn towards the Station on the Ithon, after
we passed Glanbran we began to pay great attention to every
thing that had an appearance of a bridge ; but though we heard
that very distinct traces are visible soon after you reach the
summit of the hill where the old road ascends, we did not discover
any part of it till we came to the turbary beyond the little cottage,
the Llandovery side of Ludlow vach.
Here are the ruins of a small Ale House, where the Suitors to
the Court of the Marches from the lower part of South Wales used
to stop and make up matters, burying their quarrels in cwrw, and
therefore called by that name. The House stood in two Counties,
and in the rides of different Excise Men, and the ale was shifted
accordingly. At this place M''. Gwynne of Glanbran's keeper came up with
us, having been sent very politely by his master to conduct us
over the Country and attend us, and confirmed us in our supposi
tion that what we saw was the Road. For the first time in my
life sprang at this place a Cock Grouse, the first Sir Richard
Hoare, as well as myself, ever saw on the wing.

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 17
Here we turned off towards Llanwrtyd Wells, where, when we
arrived, we were astonished to find a most romantick beautiful
retirement environed with high hiUs, wooded in the most
picturesque manner, and dotted with sheep, with the fine river
Irvon rattling over a stony rocky channel through pleasant
meadows. The house stands on the edge of the River, and so
near that without a parapet it must be almost dangerous to go
out of the house at night.
Whilst our eggs and bacon were preparing, walked to the
Fountain and tasted the water, which seemed impregnated with
rotten eggs. There was a white enamel formed just under the
cock on the wall. This water under cover. Near the stinking
water is a Chalybeate, very strong, but of a very small run.
We walked further on tiU we opened a still more romantick
and sublime view, and caught a sight of the Church near the
house of a Mr. Lloyd of Brecon, sweetly placed amidst charm
ing woods, and furnishing a most cheerful, and yet profound,
solitude. It grieved me to see some noble trees sacrificed to the Axe,
and particularly a few miserable Oaks which grew amidst loose
stones that cover the side of a precipitous hill this side the Church,
that appears like a stream of Lava from top to bottom of the
Mountain. What a pity that the Auri sacra fames should ever
tempt a man to ruin scenery, after this kind, for the sake of a
few pounds.
On our return from our romantick walk, found in that short
space a very fine fowl deliciously roasted, and a custard pudding,
by way of supplement to what we ordered, with pleasant beer.
As we were to dine at 6 o'clock at Builth, we forbore paying our
respects to the fowl, as we otherwise should. Asking what was
to pay, we were told that they could not think of making any
charge ; we ate so little. However, being pressed to make some
charge, they asked if a shilling was extravagant. Half a crown
then was given.
Saw the house, which consisted of two good large rooms of
nearly equal size, wainscoted with fine old Oak, below stairs ;
and above stairs a number of small tidy bed-chambers, and they
can make about 25 or 30 beds. Civility and neatness are the
characteristics of the house.
On passing the ViUage below, struck with the appearance of a
wooden bridge across the Irvon, which, together with a few
cottages and trees, made a picturesque June, added to a great
concourse of peasants, chiefly women, who on that day came to
c

18 TOURS IN WALES
meet some stocking merchants there assembled to buy stocking
of a very coarse manufactory.
Passed on, observing a curious range of Hills variously broken
to the left, and another range of a more do-wny kind to the right.
Pass Llwyn Madock, Garth, Llangammarch, Llanfechan,
Llanynys, and Cefn y Bedd, the place where it is supposed
Llewelyn's corpse was buried.
May 19*'* 1804.* — A fine day inviting, we set off from Bmlth
for the Station on the Ithon, and went by Court Llechryd, a
farm situated within a large square Entrenchment, but on
examination, and in the opinion of Sir R^^ Hoare, very conversant
with such matters, with the corners not sufficiently rounded to
pronounce it Roman, yet it puzzles one to determine what it
could have been. Probably the Britons finding that the Romans
had occupied the Spot, and that it was a convenient place for
guarding the Ford below it, over the Wye, did away with the
greater part of the Roman traces. However, it is clear that it had
been a place of some consequence ; either the occasional residence
of one of the Princes of S. Wales, or usurping Chieftain of the
Normans. Powell's Chronicle, p. 110, mentions a Battle fought
there between Rhys ap Tewdwr and Madoc, Cadwgan, and
Riryd, sons of Blethyn ap Cynfyn, when Madoc and Riryd were
slain ; and there is a field on the Farm to this day called Maes
Madoc. The Farmer at the House told me that a very large
Human Skull had been dug up there, and some small silver coins,
but of what Age he could not say. The Farm is now the Court ;
House of a large Lordship, belonging now to the Daughters of
the late Thos. Jones, Esq'', of Pencerrig, lately married, the same
day — the eldest to one Thomas, of Glamorganshire, the youngest
to one Capt" Dale. It is finely wooded with venerable and sound
Oak. After riding about 2 Miles and I on the Rayader Road, we
turned off over a large Common, hoping we might discover some
traces of the Roman road which we had pursued over the Hills
above Glanbran, and which from its bearing must have crossed the
Wye somewhere to the West of Builth, and probably at Llechryd ;
but by the Track of the old Roman road we fell in with on the
^ ilH. 2.()4. On outside cover — " Excursion ^vith Sir Richard Hoare,
continued from the folding Book, through Radnorshire, Brecknockshire,
on to Herefoid, by Dore Abbey, Kenchester, Ludlow, Bridgenorth,
Caractus's Camp, \A'igmore, Kerry, Meifod, Llan^'iUing, Bala, Tanybwlch,
Llyn, Barmouth, Towyn, through Cardiganshire, Teifi-side, home."

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 19
western side of Llandrindod Common, it must have, after
crossing the Wye, struck off rather to the Eastward of the place
we turned up to out of the Rhayadr road. On that Common we
followed it for about a Mile, pointing exactly to the Station in
question, and within half a Mile of it.
There can be no doubt of the other road from the Gaer in
Brecknockshire, portions of which are discernible, near, and on
the present Road from Builth to Llandrindod, in several places,
imiting with it before it crossed the Ithon to the Station, though
we could not discover this union. We crossed the River by a
wooden Bridge, and came to C-wm, the seat, or rather the wrecked
Farmhouse, of a Mr. Williams, a man of large fortune and a
Radnorshire Magistrate. We rode up to the House, and, lo,
this rough unbuttoned Squire appeared, and having asked his
permission, rode on to see the Station, which lay a few hundred
yards beyond his House. Saw several pieces of Brick, and the
foundations of several Stone buildings — the whole circuit without
the Camp having been built on. Sir R. Hoare, in a ploughed
Field adjoining, picked up two Bits of very fine pottery, with
enough of the antient glazing on it to distinguish it. The Camp,
Mr. Williams told us, was called Caer Collen, i.e., the Hazel
Camp, as he supposes, from the number of Hazels growing over
the sides of it ; but why, more properly, may it not be a corrup
tion of Caer Cae len, the Camp of the Field of the Legion ?
On our return, rode up to see the Wells of Llandrindod, a
miserable place, and by so doing overshot that part of the present
Road on the Common where traces of the Roman appear, having
kept too much to the Bast. Saw a circular Camp near Howy,
a Dingle we crossed, falUng into the Road in time to distinguish
the traces we were in quest of. To the West of which, and close
to it, a very fine Tumulus. Riding on towards Pencerrig,
found several bits of the Road too stony for anything but Roman.
Dined at Builth. After Dinner walked to the Church, an
ordinary plain building, with a Tower at the West end dignified
by a To-wn Clock, standing in a very large Cemetery, where,
though the To-wn is populous and the Parish considerable, few
Graves are seen, and those that are all on the South side. In
the Chancel, on the South side, is the Efiigy of a Warrior of great
size as represented, particularly his head. It is in Armour, legs
mutilated, of a purpUsh stone of the Country. The Inscription
belonging to it is on a brass plate affixed to a piece of old Oak,
and shewn by the Clerk.
From thence continued our walk over the Bridge on the
c2

20 TOURS IN WALES
Irvon, and through pleasant Fields and Woods to Builth Wells,
within an Octagon building. There are three Pumps not above
4 Feet asunder, the water of each differing from the other. One,
a strong sulphureous and saline mixed ; another, of a weaker
sort ; and the third only sulphureous. A little way off to the
Northward, another Spring and place to bathe in, the Water of
which was of the sulphureous and saline mixed, but infinitely
more briUiant and lively than the other Waters. The Wells
are very inconvenient for invalids, who generally lodge at Builth,
at least a Mile and a quarter off, there being no accomodations
nearer, except some very ordinary ones at a Farm House near.
Returned to Tea, and closed a pleasant day.
May 20*.— Stopped at Builth. Wrote after Breakfast for
an hour, then walked to see the Castle of Builth, or rather the
place where the Castle stood, which consists of a very large
Tommen in the centre surrounded by a very deep Ditch, circular,
and that by an outer one, a very small portion of wall here and
there appearing. It occupied a considerable space, and of its
size, very strong. Two or three beautiful and very picturesque
Ash Trees growing on the sides of the Entrenchments.
After Dinner, strolled as far as the Irvon, and turned to the
left at the Bridge, where I met Price of Builth, with his Wife and
another Lady, admiring the River in that place, rushing rapidly
in that place over a bed of slaty rock, the sides of which contain
very curious pieces of lean Iron stone, almost globular, bedded
in the Slate. A little above the place was formerly an old
Bridge, which must certainly be the same mentioned in Powell's
Chronicle as Pont Orewyn, for Pont ar Irvon, at which pass there
was an obstinate encounter between Mortimer and Llewelyn,
who was encamped on that singular Peninsula formed by the
Irvon, called Caerbiris, there being a very antient Castelet at the
extreme point. Walked on the old Turnpike, which forms one
of the finest Terraces that can be conceived, boldly placed above
the River, taking the most romantick Bends below, with its
Banks finely wooded, with all the near and distant scenery pro
ducing the most striking effect, but particularly the range of the
Ellenith Mountains deliciously tinged by the setting Sun.
May 21^*.— Left Builth, after a Shower which gave freshness
to the Air, and made the Roads pleasant. About a Mile beyond
Llanelwydd Church, descending into a little Valley, one of the

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 21
most beautiful landscapes imaginable presented itself. Sir R. H.
observing he never saw more charming circumstances united.
Turning to the left, we forsook the Wye, and our road became
rather uninteresting. At a place called Penybont, at the upper
end of a small dingle, observed one of the usual round Tommens,
or Castelets entrenched, and near it in a field a Tumulus, and
another -without on a Common. It seems we were then near
very strong mineral Waters at a place called Blan Edw. Our
road to Glasc-wm then took a turn to the left, leaving Crygrina
to the right, marked by an Yew tree or two. It seemed nothing
but a plain roof, no cross Aile, Steeple or Aperture without for a
BeU. After passing a ridge, we opened the little narrow, but
beautifully retired, VaUey of Glascwm, terminated by the
Church and VUlage. The Church, like the last, but longer, had
a Porch, and on the South side the remains of Windows that,
in former days, shewed handsome stone work, but now stopped
up and repaired in various ways.
Ascending a very steep Hill, we rode some miles in Rain over
the summit of the Mountains between Glascwm and the Wye,
on several parts of which my Eye caught the larger kind of Love
and Idle,* a flower I never saw -wild before. The Hills past, we
caught a fine view of the rich Vale of the Wye and the place of
our destination, the Hay, and the lovely Country round, backed
by Talgarth Mountains. Within about a Mile and J of Hay
Bridge, near a farm house, one of the frequent Castelets ; and
at last got to the Hay, through most horrid roads, but a beautiful
country, thank God, without any accident, and with only my
Feet a Uttle damped.
After Dinner, walked about the Town of the Hay. Sir W
Hoare stopped and made a drawing of the only bit of the old
Castle now existing, which is a very fine Gateway, with the
place for the PortculUs, and the old Oak Door, which, from its
appearance, thickness, size, and rust of its hinges, and aU over
studded -with Bolts, might be coeval with the building. Part
of the outer WaU finely clad with Ivy to the East, and a square
Tower to the West which, though old, appears less so than the
Gateway it joins. A Large Mansion House, about the age of
Queen Elizabeth, or rather later, belonging to the WeUingtons,
who o-wn the scite of the Castle, adjoins the old part. The
Windows are more modern than the other part. Walked to the
* So in the MS. ; but no doubt the love-in-idleness is intended, one of
the numerous names of the Viola tricolor ; m Welsh, segur .seroh, llysiau'r
Drmdod, &c. — Ed.

22 TOURS IN WALES
East of the Town for a Quarter of a MUe without the Walls,
which there shew pretty entire, and once enclosed a very large
space. The Gateways taken down in the memory of several
now living. The Church, prettily situated, has been loftier;
,roof and steeple ; nothing worth notice in the Church, and
nothing without, but a stone with an Effigy on it, so very much
mutilated and worn that even the Sex of the Figure it represented
cannot be correctly ascertained. The Common People call her
Maud Walby, and say she was a Witch.
May 22<'.— Set off from the Hay to Brecon. CaU at the
Rev'' Mr. Hiighes' of Glasbujy, at whose House we expected to
meet Mr. Theo. Jones of Brecon, but he was gone from thence
the day before. Mr. Hughes and a Mr. Ainsworth accompanied
us to see a small Cromlech near a Farm called Bryn y Groes, and
in a field called Clos y Llechau. We walked to it across a field,
and found a pretty large stone resting on one side on an old
Thorn, and on the other on an old Ash stump ; which they say,
by the strength of vegetative power, have raised the incumbent
stone off from the end stones that once supported it ; which
certainly at present it does not appear to touch ; and this is said
to be confirmed by people living, who remember the progress in
the elevation of the stone. Credat Jvdceus Apella.
Passed by Gwernyfed Park to the Left, formerly the seat of
Sir David Williams, one of the 12 Judges in Queen Elizabeth's
time, and to whose memory there is a monument in the Priory
Church, Brecon. It must have been a charming place in its
time ; finely wooded, fine inequalities everywhere, and bounded
by a fine range of Mountains to the East. At a modemish
Mansion on an Eminence in the Park, called the Lodge, Uves a
Mr. AUen, a Barrister. The old House lies low, at some distance
to the South of that. There is something like a Camp within the
Park seen from the Road, and of a form that tempted us to think
it Roman ; but on examination, it was doubtful if it had been a
camp or not.
Rode on and came to Porthamal, now a Farmhouse, but
formerly the Baronial residence of the Vaughan family. The
Gateway, with a Tower over it supported by a groined Arch,
simply elegant, which Leland speaks of, still exists. Thence to
BrynUys Castle. While Sir R* took a sketch of the only Tower
now up, I walked up to the farmhouse standing in the midst of
the old budding. Nothing now discernible of the Castle but the
above Tower, of considerable size, with walls of immense thickness,

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 23
the lower apartment being arched, and in all likelihood a. Dungeon
or Prison. The Farmer told me he had opened a Tumulus near
Talgarth, and found an Urn and a Flint Spear head, an exact
drawing of which I saw with Mr. Theo. Jones ; of Flint, black
in the middle, with sharp edges yellowish. An,other Tumulus
existed on the same spot. In Buck's View of this Castle there is a
considerable portion represented, scarce a trace of which now
remains. Thence through a pleasant Country, with a fine View
in front of the Van and its retinue of Mountains, to Brecon.
After Dinner walked out to see the CoUegiate Church, the
Nave and other parts of which are entirely in. ruins, the Grass
having grown over the Tombs in the Nave, and almost over all
the Pediments of the fine old Pillars that supported the Roof.
The Choir and Chancel, where the Stalls are, in a very little better
state, though the floor is covered with very antient Tombstones,
and its sides and walls dignified by many elegant Monuments
and Tablets, such as those to the memory of Bishops Bull,
Mainwaring, and Lucy. The neglect of a place of worship, so
uncommonly shameful, to say nothing as a Mausoleum of the
respectable Dead it contains, is such a reflection on the See of
St. David's that language is too weak to represent it properly.
Walked then to the Priory, a most venerable large building,
whose pavement is pregnant with sepulchral history, and whose
sides exhibit several very curious and antient monuments. I
never saw a Churchyard so full of Graves. The Walls of the
Church and even the Tower are full of Yew Trees growing out of
the small interstices of the Stones. The Priory Walks above the
Honddu, though now much neglected and disused as a fashionable
Promenade, are charming, overhanging and winding above a
narrow Dingle steep and magnificently wooded. The old Gate
way of the Priory to the North, as well as that to the West, and
many other parts of the old building, still exist entire. A wall
with Battlements encompasses the whole. In the evening on our
return, we had the company of Mr. Theo. Jones, and a very
sensible Divine, Mr. Payne, who sat with us for an hour.
May 23. — Set off accompanied by Mr. Payne to see the Station
of the Gaer, charmingly situated near the Usk ; nor can a finer
situation be imagined, whether we consider the Aspect, the
River, the Woods, and the sublime back Ground of Mountains
seen through a Skreen of Trees. Observe the Roman Road
from Gobanium just entering the Station ; and a Roman monu
ment representing a Man and his Wife, with a Tablet tmderneath,

24 TOURS IN WALES
on which Conjunx eju — T may be read distinctly, standing on
the edge of the old Road, which falls in at right angles with that
towards the Ithon, and that which led to Neath and Llanfair ar y
Bryn united till they crossed the Usk beyond the Church of
Aber Eskyr. At the farm house of Aber Eskyr saw a Brick,
about 9 inches square and 2 thick, stamped with
LEG. II AVG. .
Went to Llandevailog Church, after having, as we thought,
traced the Ithon branch of the Roman Road almost opposite
to Mr. Thos. Watkin's Seat, called Pennoyar, on the brow of a
hill to our left. Saw the long Stone on the South side of the
Church, 7 Ft. 9 inches and | long, and 15 Inches wide, with a
very rude Figure sculptured in the middle compartment ; on
the upper a Cross with rude ornaments round it ; and on the
lower compartment rude ornaments, said, but without the
least foundation, to be the tomb of Brochmail Yskythrog.
There is a place near called Sarnau, which probably may refer
to a Roman road, but did not see it.
Returned through pleasant Lanes enriched with a Luxuriancy
of Bird Cherries, which grow here in some parts of Radnorshire
wUd ; and dined at Mr. Theo. Jones'. The Party, Mr. and
Mrs. Jones, Miss Jones, Mr. and Mrs. Payne, Sir R.  and
myself. We had an elegant Dinner. Welsh Antiquities the
principal topick.
May 24th. — Rainy day, bringing up the Lee way in my
Journal. Dined at Mr. Jones's, and saw for the first time the
Rev'' Mr. Watkins, whom I found a pleasant, well informed
Man, and no ways conceited or assuming, as he had been insidi
ously represented to me. Passed a pleasant Evening. Conversa
tion various. Mr. Watkins enquired politely after my Sister and
Mr. C  , and gave me a very kind invitation to his house.-
Friday. — Set off from Brecknock for the Rev'' Mr. Payne's,
Llanbedr, near Crickhowel, through the beautiful vale of Usk,
which, whether we consider its form, its cheerfulness, or its
boundaries, is without comparison the prettiest Vale in the
Kingdom. A very peculiar feature of it is the endless openings
into Smaller Vallies en each side. Pass by Peterston, where the
Monument of the Lady whom Mr. Theo. Jones can't make out is ;
but it being Fast Day, and Service performing, we could not see
it. On the other side of the River, Penkelly Castle, once the
seat of a Branch of the Herberts, now shews nothing of the Castle
but the KnoU on which it stood, or very little more.

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 25
Before we come to Crickhowel, some Miles, we leave on the
Right a large Conical HiU, wooded charmingly, and studded with
Houses almost to the Top, which breaks the regularity of the
Hill and forms a beautiful Amphitheatre up to Crickhowel. Saw
the course of the new Canal to Brecknock for a great way on the
North side of the Usk, and then on the South side.
Crickhowel the most cheerful looking Town I ever saw, to the
Right. A narrow ascending Road brings us in about two Miles
and a half to Mr. Payne's House. In our way to it have views
of several beautiful openings into little well wooded and watered
Vallies bounded by fine Mountains. To the left of the Road
above Crickhowel, observe a truncated Conical Hill, the summit
of which is a Camp called Crug Howel.
Arrived at Mr. Payne's, we found a little Paradise. The
House neat, situated in the Church Yard, the North side of which
is close shaven and made a Lawn of, with a Walk all round,
skirted with Shrubbery. In the Church Yard are some of the
largest old Yews I ever saw. The Church is situated on the
Summit of a Hill overhanging the Grwyne fechan, a beautiful
Mountain stream, full of trout, that roars and foams at the
bottom of a narrow Dingle, the sides of which are charmingly
wooded, particularly with Oak, Beech, and Wych Elm,
through which Mr. Payne has made Walks, with great Taste,
extending for a considerable way between two Bridges of a single
Arch, most romantically clad with Ivy. The Garden behind the
House, a mixture of Kitchen, Fruit, and Flower Garden, exhibits
a scene so comfortable, picturesque, and cheerful that nothing
can exceed it. From the House, or rather the Lawn before it,
the rich little Valley below and the Prospect round are bounded
on one side by the Sugar Loaf, and by the Cader on the other.
In short, few places in Wales can boast of such an Assemblage
of pleasing circumstances from one point. Mr. Theo. Jones
accompanied us to Mr. Payne's. Indulged in the Evening in
conversation, anticipating the business of the Cromlech meant
to be examined the folio-wing day.
Saturday. — This great, this important day rose most favour
ably for our Plan. We breakfasted early, and were on Horse
back soon after ; and a pleasant ride brought us to the scene of
action about a Mile the Brecon side of Crickhowel. We found
the Incumbent Stone, after being split in two, removed from
off the Supporters, and the small Area within was soon cleared
till we got below the bottoms of the Supporters, and found

26 TOURS IN WALES
nothing but small bits of Charcoal and several small Bones.
There was a piece of dry wall regularly built between two of the
upright stones, which appeared coeval with the Cromlech, what
I never saw before in any. In short, from what appeared,
there was nothing turned up that could favour the supposition
of their being sepulchral. The Company present were our own
Party, Admiral Gell, Sir William Ousely, and a Mr. Everest.
This grand Ceremony over, we looked at the old Gateway at
Crickhowel, the remains of the Castle, and the Church, in which
there were some old Monuments, particularly of one of the
Painceforts, very much mutilated, who appeared to have been
a Crusader. The effigy is of Stone, and the Shield bears 3 Lions,
as in the Arms of the Herberts, but without the distinction of
Party per pale. The Painceforts were o-wmers formerly of the
Castle. Return to an elegant Dinner, after which we rambled through
the charming walks at Llanbedr above mentioned, from which
it was with difficulty I could tear myself, and of which I talked
with unabating rapture the whole evening.
Sunday. — Breakfasted early, being engaged to attend Mr.
Payne to the Church of Patricio, a Chapel annexed to Llanbedr,
where I saw the most elegant and perfect Rood Loft perhaps
now extant in the Kingdom ; of seemingly Irish Oak, which,
fortunately, has escaped either white-washing or painting. In
a Mansion not a great way from the Church formerly hved a
Herbert, and to that family may in all probabiUty be ascribed
this curious relick. Below the Church saw the Sainted WeU of
[Ishaw],* being a very scanty oozing of water, to which, however,
formerly was attributed great Virtue, as within the building
that encloses it there are little Niches to hold the Vessels they
drank out of and the offerings left behind. The road to Patricio
is through steep, stony, narrow lanes arched with wood. Observed
the Sugar Loaf on my return from this Church like a small ridge,
no way like its appearance from Llanbedr. Saw to the left
returning Coed Gronw.
Dined at Admiral Cell's, a very pretty situation about a mile
from Crickhowel. The House an odd looking building by Nash.
The Admiral is a very singular character ; the rough swearing
* The Saint's name is blank in the MS., but is suppHed from Tfieophilus
Jones : his Life, &c., ed. Edtvin Davies, 1905, p. 145, where this passagfe
is quoted verbatim from our author. — Ed.

BRECKNOCKSHIRE 27
Tar with a most excellent Heart. Our Dinner good, with good
Madeira. The Company, Sir R. Hoare, Sir W. Ousely, Mr.
Payne, Mr. Theo. Jones, a Mr. Russel, an Angling Tourist, and
myself. On parting the Admiral gave me a general Invitation,
and begged I would make an Inn of his House, for, D  n me,
says he, I like that an Inn should be made of my House. Sir
WiUiam Ousely distinguished himself as a Scholar and a Gentle
man in the course of the conversation. Returned, and passed
a pleasant evening in talking of Antiquities, &c., and was much
pleased with Mr. Payne's account of the Book Club at Crick
howel. Monday. — Imprisoned all Day, as it rained so hard, but in a
charming Cell, -viz., Mr. Payne's Study. Made several extracts.
Saw some things with Mr. Payne taken out of a MS. by Geo.
Owen Harry of Kemes.
Tuesday. — Set off after Breakfast to see the Gaer, in CAvmdu,
a Roman Station first discovered by the ReV Mr. Payne. Beyond
the Cromlech we opened on Saturday, to the right of the Road,
past one of the Tommens, or Castelets ; of which there is no
history, but that it was used for the View of Prank Pledge in
the Lordship of Crickhowel. It is now overgrown with Trees,
and has an Yew or two on it.
Went by Tretower Castle, which now consists of a round Tower
of considerable size within an outer wall with battlements, with
a large embattled Wall stretching on each side to smaU Bastions,
including a very considerable area. In the great Tower there
appeared to have been elegant Chambers, if we may judge by
the remains of the Chinmey Pieces, for that Age. Near it are
the remains of the old and dignified Mansion of the Vaughans,
entered from the Road by a handsome Gateway -with a Chamber
in a square Tower over it. Rode on to see a Camp near, which
Mr. Payne took to be the Castrum Estivum of the Gaer, just
above a wood caUed Coed y Gaer ; but Sir R" Hoare seemed to
think, from long observation, that the Romans never chose any
very elevated situations for their Camps ; besides, we found it
to be not of the figure they always used, viz., an oblong or a
regular square with the angles rounded, but of a something
between a triangle and an oval.
We descended from this Camp, which occupied a projecting
point of land commanding two VaUies, and rode on to the Gaer,
which occupies a small rising in the Vale at the foot of the Myarth.

28 TOURS IN WALES
We found the Square Camp had been enclosed by a WaU, in the
rubbish of which was seen Brick of various shapes and sizes.
At one end of the Square is nearly a semicircular elevation,
supposed to be the Praetorium. In the fields adjoining, several
hewn Stones, Bricks, and pieces of Pottery, &c., have been seen
at different times, which proves beyond a doubt that this had
been a considerable station, as it was called Tref y Caerau. In
one of the fields near, a Stone lies with an Inscription that might
have been on the side of the Roman road leading towards
Gobanium. Having thoroughly examined the place, returned
to Llanbedr to Dinner. After Dinner ascended Crug Howel,
a prodigious height, on the summit of which is a Camp surrounded
with vast Entrenchments of loose stones, with a very deep Foss,
entered by an opening to the East or N.E. From this eminence
had a most extensive view of the Vale of Usk to the South, but
to the North shut up by higher Hills, on the summit of which
there is a small Vein of Limestone. Descended very gradually,
enjoyed a cup of Tea, and went to bed perfectly fatigued.
Tuesday. — Left Llanbedr, Mr. [Payne] accompanying us, for
Hereford, purposing to visit Dore Abbey and Kilpeck on our way ;
at the former of which places we stopped after pumping for
several miles through stiff clay, wading through seas of mud,
and working our way in deep lanes covered with the banks and
growth on the hedges, uncheered by a View of anything above
or beyond. Pass by a large Tommen moated by Walterston,
and before we came there, pass by AUt yr Ynys, the original
Seat of the Cecils, or, rather, Sitsyllts, and where the great Lord
Burleigh was born. At Dore we baited at a small Inn, not fit
for a pampered Abbot to have feasted at, but where such jaded
travellers were glad to find Eggs and Bacon. Whilst they were
getting ready we walked to the Abbey Church, which had been
much larger ; the side aisles, now uncovered, presenting 2 fine
Arches, Saxon columns, with Gothic Arches ; the same at the
West entrance ; the whole inside exhibiting a specimen of the
most perfect and lightest Gothick ever seen ; with a fine painted
window in the Chancel, two mutilated monuments of Crusaders,
and a little moveable Effigy of one in a Pontifical habit, round
which could be read, in different parts, Pontificis Dor and Christe.
Quere, if the same as the Boy Bishop at Salisbury.
Our Eggs and Bacon dispatched, from the aspect of the Evening
and the melancholy account of the Roads, we abandoned our
plan of visiting Kilpeck, a Church in the fine Saxon style, and

HEREFORDSHIRE 29
made the best of our way to Hereford, \\'here we arrived just in
time to save a thorough wetting — happy to find comfortable
accommodations at the New Inn in that City, where we enjoyed
our dinner, a sober glass of Wine, a good fire, and pleasant con
versation. Forgot, in its place, to note that we passed a large Tommen
at Ewyas Harold before we came to Dore. The Tower of the
Church of Ewyas Harold of very singular architecture. Looked
in through the Windows ; saw no monument but one of a Priest
in Effigy under a handsome Niche. The Dore, or as the common
people call it, the Doyer, is a small inconsiderable stream.
The Skerrid, which we now and then caught a peep of, shewed
itself in many points of View, all grand and beautiful ; at one
time, -with a Cloud just resting on its summit, it looked like a
volcano. It had once a Chapel on the top called St. Michael's.
The Roman Catholicks to this Day attach a most superstitious
veneration to the spot ; and get earth even from thence to put
into their Coffins. They consider it as one of the Mountains
that felt the great convulsion of Nature at the Crucifixion of
our Saviour, there having been a separation of the Mountain,
the fragment separated now shewing like another Mountain.
Thursday. — A rainy morning, but after it cleared up, set out
for Kenchester, which is about 5 miles from Hereford. It
occupies a large space on a gentle rising, and bears evident marks
of having been thickly set with buildings. In one part a piece
of wall remains, and a niche in it. In the corn fields adjoining,
fragments of Brick and Pottery everywhere. On the North side,
which Sir R. Hoare has observed, they always buried on, a great
deal of Charcoal, Bones, and fragments of red, yellowish, and
black Urns. The Roman Road from Stretton goes strait to it,
the present road foUowing exactly the same course as the Roman.
Thought we saw the Road strike out to the North from this
Station which led to Wroxeter. In the Itinerary Magnse is
supposed to be Kenchester.
Leaving Kenchester, we rode up to Creden Hill, to see the
largest and most magnificent British Camp in the Kingdom.
The grand Entrance was from the South East. The View from
it was extensive every way, seeing, on one side, the Malvern
HiUs, and, on the other, the Skyrrid, the Blorenge, the Sugar
Loaf, and Cader Arthur, with other very extensive ranges of
mountains. Of the near objects, one of the principal were the
woods of Foxley. Had a most favourable Day for our excursion.

30 TOURS IN WALES
On our return, within a mile or two of Hereford, saw the largest
Thorn Tree and Elm I ever saw before. Pass a little nearer the
City a neat Cross. After Dinner walked to see the Cathedral,
which is a very beautiful mixture of Saxon and Gothick, full
of ancient Monuments and Brasses.
Saw Ethelbert's Well. Took a stroll round the pubUck Walk,
the Scite of the Castle once, at the foot of which the Wye flows,
and makes a noble appearance. From hence went to see a beau
tiful little Oratory, overgrown with Elder and Thorn, standing
in front of the Ruins of the old Priory.
Friday, June 1^*. — Leave Hereford. Pass across the Roman
road at Stretton. Saw an Encampment cro-wning the summit
of a HiU to the right of the Road at Sutton. Ascend a steep
ridge called Dinmore, to the left of which, just at the beginning
of the Ascent, is seen an old brick Mansion, of the fashion of
Queen Elizabeth's Reign, seemingly deserted, as beUeved to be
haunted. It belonged to Captain Goodyeare, who murdered
his Brother. The other side of the ridge, leave Alderman
Harley's to the left. Reach Leominster through bad roads all
the way. Leominster a dirty, dingy, scrambling place. The
Church the only thing worth notice, which is a very fine old
building, consisting of a double Nave and an elegant Tower.
The West Door on the Tower is a beautiful Saxon, -with retiring
Pillars, through which you enter the old Nave, all Saxon ; the
other Nave of a later Date, Gothick, Windows large and tracery
fine. There is a North Aile to the Saxon Nave. No antient
Monuments. To the North and East, traces of the Monastery,
of which this was the Church.
Left Leominster after stopping half an hour, and through
worse Roads than we had already passed. Reach Ludlow, a
fine Town, charmingly situated on a rising ground on the banks
of the Team. Found the Town fiUed with Soldiers, Horse and
Foot, a most pleasing sight ; however, promising little quiet
and repose to us, so that we resolved to push on to Lenterden
[Leintwardine] as soon as we had dined.
Whilst Dinner was preparing we walked to see the Castle
and publick walk below it. The Castle is boldly situated on
a Rock overhanging the Team, the basis of which is finely
overgrown with Trees and Shrubs. After passing an outer
Area we cross the Moat, where formerly was a drawbridge,
I suppose, and enter a fine Gateway, over which you see a Coat
of Arms. Several fine Apartments on each side the Entrance.

HEREFORDSHIRE 31
In the midst of the inner Area stands a Chapel of a curious
form. The circular part a most beautiful building, entered by
a Door of the Saxon order ; all the other ornaments suiting ;
from which, through a much larger Saxon Arch, you pass to the
Chancel, now totally down. You ascend steps a little farther
into the great Hall and other grand Apartments, now uncovered,
filled with Elder Trees, Thorns, and other Shrubs, and some of
the Walls and Towers magnificently clad with Ivy.
Dined, and set out about half after five for Lenterden. Stopped
at the beautiful little Church of Bromfield, which Giraldus calls
Cellula de Bromfield. The Church is on the Edge of Oakley
Park. The precinct of the religious House, a Friary, was
entered by a handsome Gothick Gateway. Part of the Friary
in ruins on the South side of the Church. In the Garden adjoining
belonging to Lady CUve's Gardener, was dug up a great quantity
of human bones, and other marks of sepulture. In the Church
nothing very old or remarkable. An arched Niche of Freestone
work in the Chancel, with a Coat of Arms raised on the Wall,
and now white washed, and on one side G F, on the other E F,
belonging to the family of Fox ; the first Coat in the Escutcheon
being a Che-vron between 3 Foxes' Heads erased ; the same
Coat occurring in other parts of the Church, and the name of
Fox, of later years, as a Church Warden. The Church is neat,
as being the Parish Church of Oakley Park. Above the Church
the Team faUs very picturesquely over a pavement, thrown
across -with an intent to produce that effect.
Rode on, pursuing stiU the very fine woods of Oakley, till
we come in sight of Downton Castle, the seat of Payne Knight,
Esq'', up the Valley, which here becomes romantick and con
tracted. A mile or two farther, open a reach of the beautiful
vaUey in which Lenterden lies, than which nothing of so cheerful
an aspect met our Eyes since we left the Vale of Usk and
Llanbedr. Saturday, June 2''.— Refreshed by a night passed in the most
perfect repose, a repose we could not have procured at Ludlow
amidst the Din of Arms and the riot of Red Coats. We set off
on our grand pursuit to ascertain the Camps of Ostorius and
Caractacus ; but we first walked to the Church, which seemed
very old ; and there I first saw the Vitruvian Masonry, Herring
bone. Nothing in the Church worthy of Notice so much as the
Rood Loft, which was neatly wrought, but much inferior to
that at Llanbedr. We then rode to the Castle of the proud

32 TOURS IN WALES
Mortimers, which occupied once a vast circuit. The inner
building possessed a very elevated scite. It is much ruinated.
It stands on a very high knoll. The Entrance from the East
is very entire.
Hence we rode to the Grange, where formerly Wigmore
Abbey stood, of which considerable remains appear. Saw more
of the glazed and ornamented Bricks with which it was floored ;
and a little beyond, at a Farmhouse called Pater, saw a fine
bit of the old Watling Street, as it is called, being a continuation
of the Road leading through the Vale from Kenchester to Brevi-
nium [Bravonium], and so on to Wroxeter. Brevinium supposed
to lie about Lentwardine, a spot to which the Road exactly
points, and of exactly the character with those chosen for their
Stations. A Lane leads up from the Roman Road, bearing marks
of something more raised than you might expect on a Farm.
To Brandon Hill, on which we found a true Roman Camp,
a square with the angles rounded ; but one side seems to have
been dug into, and another, which opposed the Camp of Carac
tacus, with seemingly a tendency to a bow, and strengthened
by a double Rampart. I picked up a few bits of true Roman
Pottery glazed in it, an undoubted Criterion of its identity.
It, moreover, proves Sir R"! Hoare's observation, viz., that they
never placed their Camps or Stations on very high ground, for
this Camp occupies only a gentle rising in the Vale, compared
with the hill on which lay the Silurian Chief.
Descend, and at a village called Walford observe the Tumuh
mentioned in Gibson's Camden, which are on the left of the road
leading from Walford to Brampton Brian, which we stopped at
to see the Castle and Church. The Keep of the Castle pretty
entire. The Church has a curious roof ; contains the Effigy of
a Lady in stone holding a heart in her hand, but too much
defaced either as to Arms or Name to be guessed at. A Marble
Tablet to the memory of the great Minister Harley, and another
to a Mrs. Sarah Henley. The Castle and Church are over
shadowed with the noblest Lime Trees I ever saw. Ascend the
steep Hill above the Church, called Coxwell HiU, and there
found a Camp occupying the whole summit of the HiU, fortified
with a prodigious Rampart, and covered now with fine Oaks.
On the Eastern side, the Rampart much stronger and more
filled with stones, being the most accessible side and the one
opposed to the Enemy. At the foot of this bold HiU, exactly
corresponding with Tacitus's account, prcefluehat amnis incerto
vado, the Team taking that course, and in several places very

SHROPSHIRE 33
deep. In short, nothing can be more satisfactory than the scite
of both the Camps, and the course of the River, to prove them
the very places referred to by the Roman Historian.
Leave this, I may say, classical ground, and wind down the
HiU through very fine flourishing Oak Woods of Lord Oxford's
to the Farmer's house in the flat, which once occupied the
Grange. We then took the road to Bishop's Castle, passing
by Hopton Castle, a square building of a castellated form, a
place that could not be of great strength. Thence through
Walcot Park, after passing the Village of Clunbury, the seat
of the now Earl Powis, late Lord Clive, a spot of a fine inequality
of surface in the Hilly part, but covered with young plantations,
-with too much Fir intermixed. The House, a large Brick
buUding, lies low, just above what is called a permissive Road,
but I fear too publick ; and a large piece of artificial water,
with its Edges overgrown with weeds, &c., making a miserable
Appearance, on the side of which we saw a Bison or two, and
some smaller Animals of that Species from India.
Reach Bishop's Castle about 4 o'clock, after a very hot, but
pleasant, ride. Sent our Horses to the Inn, and stopped at the
Vicarage, the Rev'' Mr. Frowde's, just to announce ourselves.
However, the Church being open, we walked in, and saw nothing
but a recumbent figure, in a small Niche, of a Vicar. Dined,
and enjoyed what I had not tasted before since I left Pembroke
shire, a glass of exceUent ale, bright and lively, and of the true
amber colour. After Dinner, joined by Mr. Frowde, with whom
we walked out a Uttle beyond the town, to catch a fine view
of the Stiper Stones and noble range of HUls and Mountains
stretching on each side, as well as the Vale of Severn about
Montgomery. The horizon too hazy to admit of Snowdon
being seen, which Mr. Frowde says is discernible from that
place. Return to Tea, and after the Evening of a most satis
factory day, passed in interesting converse, retired to what
neither of us had a dislike, to Rest.
Sunday, June 3''. — Sat at home aU the morning to write
letters, the weather being uncommonly hot and oppressive.
Dined at Mr. Frowde's. Company, Mr. and Mrs. Tolderoy of
Bishop's Castle, Miss Spencer, niece to the Gentleman of the
House, Sir R. H., and myself.
Monday, June 4'".— Set off accompanied by Mr. Frowde for
Ne-wto-wn. Ascend a HUl, from the summit of which, catch
D

34 TOURS IN WALES
a fine view of the Vale to Montgomery, Corndon HiU, Stiper
Stones, Heath Mont, and Longmont. In the midst of a young
Plantation, to the right of the road, planted by the late Lord
Powis, observe the Castelet so frequently mentioned, caUed the
Bishop's Moat. A Uttle beyond, at a place called Nant y Piod,
cross Offa's Dyke, which to the left is discernible over the
adjoining ridge of HiU and down to Lymore Park, marked by
a line of trees growing on it. Pass the Common of Kerry, pretty
high ground, yet producing no breeze to temper the Sirocco
sultriness of the air. Descend into the fine Vale of Kerry ;
pass by several beautiful swells, which may be natural, as the
country here has an uncommonly undulating surface ; but one
particularly large, and rounded like a Tumulus ; and two smaUer
ones a little farther on, aU on the left side of the road.
Thence to Kerry, and see an undoubted Tumulus, just entering
Kerry, to the right. It being the King's Birthday, the Volunteers
were drawn forth, fired several VoUies, and concluded -with loud
Huzzas. Sir R'' Hoare took a drawing of the Church, as being
the scene of a famous dispute between Giraldus, on the part
of the See of St. Davids, and the Bishop of St. Asaph, who
was then on his way to consecrate the Church and assert his
claim to it. Giraldus and the Bishop proceeded so far as to
excommunicate each other ; but "Giraldus obliged the Bishop
of St. Asaph to make his precipitate retreat, the mob pelting
him with clods and stones, and so saved Kerry to the See of
St. David's, to which it now belongs, and is a Vicarage, the
great Tithes being held by Mr. Walcot under the Bishop of
St. David's.
Mr. Herbert of Park has a great Brick Mansion near the ViUage,
and at the end of a field not a great way from it, on a Pond as
large as his Parlour, a Boat nearly as large as the Pond. Cock-
neyism to Perfection ! In the Church of Kerry one weU-executed
Marble Monument to the memory of a Mr. Jones, a native of
Blackball in this Parish, once a Purser on board a Man of War,
who left the Interest of £3000 to educate ChUdren of Kerry
Parish and place them out in the world ; and the interest of
£700 for other charitable purposes. To the left of Kerry beautiful
HiUs covered with Oak, yet deformed with miserable clumps
of Firs. Saw on a point of Kerry Common, overhanging the
Vale just at the entrance into the Vale after crossing the HUls,
a small circular Camp, single ditched, commanding two smaU
Vales. Got to Newtown, pleasantly situated on the banks of the

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 35
Severn. Time enough to refresh ourselves, after a charming
but oppressive ride, owmg to unusual heat, before Dinner.
After Dinner walked out by the side of the Severn, which we
crossed by a Wooden Bridge, which, though seemingly old and
infirm, yet stood, when many Bridges about 9 years ago were
swept away by fioods. Returned to look at the old Mansion
of the Pryces, Ne-wtown HaU, a Mansion house low, awkward,
and undignified. The famUy of the Pryces now extinct, yet
they were of great note once. (Anecdotes of Sir John Pryce.)
Walked to the Church, in which there was a handsome Marble
Tablet to the Pryces, a handsome Oak Gallery, once containuig
an Organ, supported by Corinthian PiUars, made by Bembo
and Laurence from London. The Church consists of a Tower,
low, the upper part wood, and a double Nave supported by a
row of odd PUlars, -with the Arches of wood work. The Rood
Loft, as to carving, gilding, and painting, is perhaps -the most
perfect thing of the kind in the Kingdom ; said to be brought
from Abbey Cwmhir. There are not two compartments alike.
The Font likewise is old and curious, as well as that at Kerry.
Great Flannel Manufactory at Newto-wn, increasing every day,
some made so fine as to be sold for 5= p"^ yard. No Corporation.
Tuesday, June 5*. — ^Visited Caer Sws, about 5 MUes from
Newtown on the banks of the Severn, in its present course,
which it evidently has changed since that was a Roman Station.
Cross a bridge just opposite to the present Station, which is
nearly a rectangular square, 544 feet each side, with rounded
angles, and which has undergone vast revolutions in the lapse
of so many years, so that there does not appear so much Brick
and Pottery as does in many of the other Stations, though
enough to ascertain its being what it is supposed. In a small
House (Morris Evans's) in the ViUage the Chimney is entirely
composed of Roman Cement, cut into the size and shape of Bricks,
and at the back of the Fire place a square brick inscribed C.I.C.F.
A man told us that he had dug up a whole Urn, with a whole
Skull and other bones, now in the possession of a Mr. Davies
of Gregynnog. We walked to see the spot he found the Urn in,
which was a bank of the River washed off by the Floods, in which
we found several Strata of Charcoal, pieces of Urns, and half
a glass bead of a bluish colour. Our Guide had found in the
same place a whole one, which Sir R. H. bought.
Leaving Caer Sws, we ascended the opposite HiU to see the
Camps mentioned by Pennant on Rhos Ddiarbed ; but found them
d2

36 TOURS IN WALES
not the least akin to Roman. Found Mr. Pennant's description
pretty exact of the first Camp ; but the second is by no means
rectangular. It is clear by the Relics dug out of the banks of
the River every flood washes away that the River has un
doubtedly altered its course. A little to the Westward of
Maesmawr House, the Seat of Price Davies, Esq', is an outbreak
of it in the bank of the River, distinguished by a stratum of
Gravel, just the breadth of the Road, each side of it being entirely
clay. We traced the Road Eastward to Penystrywed, in which
space it is intersected by the River twice, and comes out opposite
to a House in a Copse of Fir Trees (Mr. Stephens's). It then, in
order to avoid the great Bend in the Turnpike Road to the right,
must take its course near the River, and in all probability faUs
again into the Turnpike about 2 Miles from Newtown. A road
to the Westward, in the bearing towards Pennal, has been seen
leading towards Trefeglwys, to the West of Caer Sws.
After Dinner Mr. Frowde and I called on Mr. Lewis, Rector of
Newtown, who waited on us with Mr. Davies of Maesmawr, an old
gentleman between 70 and 80, to give us every account in their
power respecting our pursuits. The old gentleman was at a loss
to know the Etymology of Caer Sws. He was much pleased to
hear of our tracing the Roman Road through his farm yard,
where it is an untouched ridge, as perfect as the day it was made,
his House standing on one half of it. Mr. Davies took his leave,
and Mr. Lewis undertook to shew us an old Encampment over
hanging the Severn, a very distinct piece of the Roman Road,
about half a mile to the East of Newtown, on the Pool road. The
Camp, which is nearly opposite to Llanllwchaiarn Church, is a
large Tommen Castelet, with a ditch round, standing within an
Area strengthened by a high Rampart and Foss, one side being
protected by the Steep Bank over the Severn. All evidently
British. To the Right of the Pool road, in a grass field, shewn a ridge
which is called the Roman Road, the boundary of the Parishes
of Newtown and Llanllwchaiarn, and called by that name in
antient Terriers. Trace it through 3 or 4 fields most decidedly ;
and on our return, nearer Newtown, thought we caught it again
gradually dipping down into the Turnpike, which evidently must
be the continuation of the road coming on to Penystryvred, and
went to the Gaer, near Montgomery. Thus ended a very pleasant
day, and very satisfactory as to the object of our pursuit.
Wednesday, 6^^. — After waiting in anxious suspense the whole
morning for the weather to clear up (as it rained hard), about |

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 37
past two took a scrap of cold Meat and a draught of Porter,
and with the appearance of a fine Evening, set off the North side
of the Severn with an intent of tracing the Road that led from
Caer Sws Northward. We turned off on Gwynfynydd, and
there discovered it plainly bearing about N.E. To the left, about
50 yards, observe a camp single trenched. At Bwlch Cae Haidd
caught it distinctly again, but on the decline of the HUl the
North side lost it again, nor did we recover it again. After
crossing a smaU tract of wettish Commons, leaving Gregynnog
to the right, we got down into pleasant Dingles ; and then after
climbing up 2 or 3 steep Pitches, but good road, we came in
sight of Llanfair Vale, a charming skirting of HiU, Wood, and
Mountain. Got to a little Cabin of a room, and fortunately met
Mr. Walter Davies, who happened to have come there from a
Funeral. I introduced him to Sir R. H., and we talked over the
business of the next day. He promised to give us the meeting
at Mathrafal.
Thursday, June 7*''. — After our Breakfast saw the Church of
Llanfair, in which, on the Seat of the South Window behind
Noyodd Seat, is an Effigy in stone of a Warrior in complete
Armour, said to be Gwilym Fychan of Llwydiarth ; and a neat
marble Tablet to the memory of D. Davies.
Rode to Mathrafal, where little remains but the scite of the
antient residence of the Princes of Powis. Close by the Farm
House, between it and the River, which it overhangs (the Banks
being there steep and rocky), is a Mount, not very lofty, around
which are stumps of Walls built with stone and mortar, and on
the surface much thin Bricks, like tiles. The River is very
picturesque and of a considerable breadth there. Mr. W. Davies
met us, and conducted to Meifod, crossed a Bridge, under which
passes the Vyrnwy Fechan.
Meifod is a beautiful Village, situated on a flat, in a lovely
Vale, surrounded by Hills entirely varied as to form, particularly
the Ridge to the N.W. of the ViUage, which ends in a sharp
summit, but broken in several directions. On the top is shewn
the Grave of Gwyddfarch the Hermit, who is said to have led the
life of an Anchorite there. But Mr. Davies told us that he had
dug through the Grave, but found nothing but Earth. There
were Churches now not known in the vicinity, dedicated to
Gwyddfarch and Tyssiliau, but that the present Church is
dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
The Churchyard is the largest I ever saw, and a very fine piece

38 TOURS IN WALES
of ground, but lets for £20 p' annum, so that Mr. Pennant's
account is not correct ; and in point of quantity, he errs, as the
spot is.
In the Church, which is separated into two AUes by a row of
PiUars supporting Gothick Arches, nothing of great Antiquity,
except a Stone which has covered a Grave ; and some few bits
of painted Glass. The Arch that supports the Steeple is Gothick,
on Saxon Pillars. The carving on the Skreen separating the
Chancel is neat. Mr. Davies told us that the Rood Loft in Bettws
Church, about 4 Miles from Newtown, was finer than that at
Newtown. Left Meifod, and rode round the projecting point of the
beautiful ridge of Hills, which is rocky, picturesque, and finely
shagged with Birch and Oak. Through very bad Roads, with
fine Views every way, reach LlanfiUing, charmingly situated in a
retired Vale watered with a small stream, and environed with
very high hills, with summits of various shapes, the sides of some
well wooded, and the tops chiefly bare. The Town has one prin
cipal street, with Water running over part of it, which, if made
to flow in a confined channel each side, would have a good effect.
On entering the Town, on the left, at the foot of a richly wooded
Hill, with a fine Lawn before it down to the road, see Llwyn,
the Seat of Humphreys, Esq'. The Church is a modemish
building of Brick. To the N.W. of the Town is Bodfach, the
Seat of Sir Edward Lloyd, Bar', now let to one Col. PhilUps.
The HiU at the back of the House seems highly cultivated, and
is finely wooded, as is all the Landscape round. Birch and Wych
Elm in great perfection. The great brick House on coming into
town was a Mrs. Trevor's, now got into another Family. Mr.
Davies told us that on the summit of the Ridge of Hills to the
N.W. of Meifod there are Sea Shells found. Mr. Frowde went to
Llwyn, so that Sir R. H. and I had our Tea without him, which we
enjoyed as much as it was possible with our Antechamber filled
with Tobacco Smoke and Ebriety, it being Market Day at
LlanfiUing. The Inn we were at, the Goat, Mrs. Jones', seemed
to be a place of great resort.
Friday, 8*'' June. — After waiting for fine weather tiU near two
o'clock, flattered by a blue sky and a gleam of Sunshine, in com
pany with Mr. W. Davies we set out to explore the Roman Road
that led from Caer Sws to Mediolanum, which is supposed to be
somewhere near the junction of the '\'yrnwy and Tanad. We had
not gone a Mile before a very heavy shower obliged us to take

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 39
shelter under a Hedge, which saved us from a thorough wetting.
A blue sky again appearing, we pushed on, but agreed to abandon
the intended search for the unkno-wn Mediolanum, and only to
examine a place caUed Street Va-wr, which we found a wide green
Lane, serving as a boundary, and on that account not broken
up, and left green. At first it had a flattering appearance, but
it took too many bends to be pronounced Roman. Observed
a Tumulus to the right of this Street Vawr, on the summit of a
Ridge, over which it is most probable the Road must have
taken ; and this Tumulus might have been their Index. Search
over the Common adjoining the Street Vawr nearer Llyssin,
but discover nothing to enable us to fancy even that the Road
went that way.
Return over the Course Ground, where Mr. Humphreys of
Ll-wyn has annual Races, to the South- West of LlanfylUn, about
a mile from the Town, a Ridge which every person visiting this
Country should ascend, as it commands a most extensive view
of the most romantick and picturesque aggregate of mountains,
broken into an endless variety, with the most charming Valleys
between, with such lights and shades as perhaps few other Scenes
could give any Idea of. The summit of the Ridge called Cefn bran
is a fine fiat of the softest Down, extending strait on end a full
mile, and affording one of the most sublime ridges, in every sense
of the word, the Kingdom perhaps can boast of. Descend through
a very steep path to our Inn, with appetites prepared for a 6
o'clock Dinner.
Saturday, June 9th. — Breakfasted early, in order that we
might have a longer day for our pursuits, being resolved to
digress a little out of our road, hoping to hit on the track that
led to Mediolanum. Set off in company with Mr. W. Davies ; and
when we came to the ridge on which we saw the Tommen yester
day, we turned off, to see if we could make a hit ; but saw no
symptoms of anything like a Roman Road. However, notwith
standing the gloomy appearance of the sky and frequent showers,
we rode so far as to get a full View of the Vale of Llanrhaiadr,
just at a point caUed Pen y street, and where it has been said
have been seen traces of the Roman Road, perhaps a continuation
of Street Va-wr, but we could in our very cursory view discover
nothing of the kind ; but saw there was no other way of entering
that part of the Vale, so situated as to admit of an opening
through a Vale pointing to Rowton, another to Bomium, and
another towards Bala ; and observed a gentle rising where they

40 TOURS IN WALES
might have intersected, happily situated between the Rbaiadr
and the Tanat. In short, though neither time nor weather
would admit of our descending into the Vale to investigate the
matter more minutely, yet from its appearance and situation
we were convinced that in the glance we had of it our eyes must
have passed over the real Mediolanum.
Resume our Road, and abide the pelting of the pitiless storm
till we reach Llangunnock, curiously situated in a most se
questered valley surrounded by very high hills, particularly that
very striking one, where the famous Slate Quarries are, on one
side, and on the other, Lead Mines. The Slates very thin, and
a very fine blue. The ViUage is well wooded, and watered by
two mountain streams, one the Tanat, I suppose. The Church
seems new built, a little mean buUding. Pass the VUlage and
turn to the right, where we pass to the Western side of the Slate
Mountain, going at its foot near a Mile, its side being covered
with a lava of loose stones. After passing a turnpike we graduaUy
ascend for about two miles and a half a road that leads along
the side of a hill, through which in many a romantick gully
water pours do-wn in Uttle romantick falls, but so well managed
as that the ascent is scarce felt.
This brings us to the touch of the Berwyn hills, where wilds
immeasurably spread seemed lengthening as we went. We leave
the old road to the left on which we should have found the
Milltir Garreg and Trim Sarn, names indicating traces of a Roman
road. Turn to the new Road, making a considerable bend to
the right, and pass by what we conceive a Tumulus ; but it
rained too hard to suffer us to inspect it closely. Through this
dreary tract, with nothing but a peep into a very beautiful
Valley to the right to cheer us, did we travel for about 4 or 5
Miles, till we descend into the beautiful Vale of Edeirnion, nearer
Bala than the Bridge of Llandrillo, and so to VachddeiUog
through beautifully wooded Dells, and cross a Bridge thrown over
a very precipitous Stream rushing through Rocks, hoUowed into
Uttle caverns. The bridge rests on these rocks, and on one side
is hung with Ivy in the most picturesque manner that can be
conceived. Arrive at VachddeiUog, where I found an elegant Cottage
consisting of a large sitting Room with Bow window looking on
the Lake, with a Bed chamber and dressing room on each side,
a passage behind connecting with the old house, in which are
the offices. In front is a fine sloping Lawn to the water. There
is a Veranda round the house. We walked then to the Inn at

MERIONETH 41
Bala, where we dined, and I had the happiness of hearing from
home. In the evening sat with Doctor Lancaster, and saw an
Attorney or two of my aquaintance. Near the Bridge on the
VachddeiUog side of the Dee there are two Tumuli. Quere,
whether the Castle of Bala, mentioned in the Annals of Wales,
might not have stood here.
Saw in the Vale of Edeirnion on the Hedges the Bird Cherry
wild. Near that at Llangunock, high up in one of the Mountain
inclosures caUed a Fridd, a lad found an Ingot of Gold, which, to
ascertain its quality, was melted and remelted, and after sold
or £10 or £12.
Sunday, 11th June. — Wrote all the morning, then dressed,
and walked by the edge of the Lake to VachddeUiog. The Lake
was scarcely ruffled, and the Mountains showed their summits
without a cloud, exhibiting a rich Landscape. Found Sir R.
dressed and ready to accompany me to Bala, where we dined.
In the evening sent for Evan, a man who goes as a guide to the
Lakes, who told us that near Rhiwaedog was found a pot of
Coins in a Quarry of brown Limestone, but the coins were all
dispersed soon. This place could not have been far from the
Roman Road leading from Mediolanum over the Mountains
towards Bala. He Ukewise told us that in Pennant Melangell
Church there are many Effigies in Stone ; and told a strange story
of a ruined Oratory near, the Church, in which were dug up
several Gold ReUcks, which Lord Powis as Lord of the Manor
claimed, but I doubt the greater part of this confused Account.
However, Sir R. H. promises to investigate it.
Walked back with Sir R. to Tea, and from his room saw the
Lake — a fine polished Mirror, unmoved by a breeze, and the
distant mountains tinged with purple, the Horizon finely gUded.
It was a School for a Painter. A small Moon appeared. Took
my leave of my Friend, walked to my Inn, and caUed on Mr.
Anwyl, the Attorney, a Clerk with Mr. H. Jones when I was on
the North Wales Circuit.
•Monday, June 12th.— Mounted our horses quarter past 10
o'clock in the morning. Rode along the Banks of the Lake to
Caergai, where in a field below the farm house which was once
the Mansion of the Vaughans we found a profusion of Roman
bricks of every sort, there having been in all probabiUty some
later buUdings on the spot. The Farm House seems to stand in
the centre of the Camp, which was nearly square. In a field to

42 TOURS IN WALES
the North of the house, saw many pieces of brick, and picked up
one smaU piece of pottery, with true Roman glaze on it. This
examined, we went to Llanuchllyn Church to see the Effigy of
a Warrior in Stone, well sculptured and preserved. He is in
compleat Armour.
From hence rode, finding two deep places in our way, to CasteU
Carndochan, most singularly placed on a very high rocky point
to the West of the River. The ascent to it was difficult in the
only accessible part to the West. It consisted of a round Circle
of Stones next to the extreme point of the Rock to the East,
with a deep excavation, like those at Penpits. Another excava
tion adjoining towards the West. The outer walls nearly square,
and the next out an oblong buUding with a semi-circular termi
nation towards the West of Stone and Mortar of Shells, the
whole encircled with a great rampart of loose stones ; and on
the West side with a Foss, and another Rampart of earth and
stone, so brought to connect -with the Rock that there appeared
no Entrance to it. At the Distance of a few yards from the outer
Rampart in Front, the Ruins of something Uke a building of
loose stones. This has the Appearance of great antiquity, and
from its scite, form, and materials may be pronounced as
old a place of Fortffication as any in Britain. Nothing can
exceed the savageness of the prospect round; if you except the
little peep you catch of the Lake of Bala. I should think it the
refuge of some ferocious Chief who had lost all claim to society,
and who lived by plunder and rapine.
We descended and resumed our Horses, and rode as far as Sir
Watkin W. Wynne's new house at the end of the Lake — a heavy
gloomy building, and from its scite, losing almost all the fine
features which VachddeUiog commands. Return just in time
for dinner, rather fagged. At 6 o'clock called on Mr. Lloyd,
Plas yn Dref, who we heard could give us information respecting
Roman Roads, &c. ; but found he knew nothing of the matter.
Walked to Fachddeiliog to Tea. Returned and packed up my
Pottery, Bricks, &c.
Tuesday, 13* June. — Left Bala, driven thence in consequence
of the immense confusion expected from a great Methodist
Association, and the coming into the town of 300 Ruthin Volun
teers. The day was remarkably calm and close, but dark, and
our Road turning out of the Dolgelly Road by LlanycU, was
through a dreary country. LlanycU Church being open, we
entered, and saw the ReV Evan Lloyd's Monument, which was

MERIONETH 43
a handsome tablet of grey marble, with an Escutcheon of Arms
with the coat of Urien Rheged first ; and the second, Riryd
Vlaidd, Quarterly.
After going a few miles of Our road, we lost sight of the habi
tations of Men, and traversed Peat Moors and Mountains for
several. Pass two old one Arch Bridges crossing precipitous
Mountain Streams. Our road at last brought us to what is
caUed Pen y street, above Rhiw goch, evidently the old Roman
road which goes on towards Tommen y Mur, probably a Roman
Station, if the Stone communicated by Mr. Lysons was found
there, perhaps the Eryri Mons of Richard. We followed it on
for about 200 yards very perfect. Its direction was N.E. and
S.W. It went through Llanfachreth Parish, and near the field
in which is seen the stone inscribed to one Porius. The field is
to this day called Maes y bedd. We were too much hurried and
fatigued to go out of our way to examine it. It is on a farm
caUed Llech Edris. We foUowed the old turnpike tUl we
approached Trawsfynydd, and by going through Hendref Mur,
lost the opportunity of examining Tommen y Mur, which as we
came nearer it (it not being above a MUe from the new turnpike),
appeared to be included in an enclosure very like a Roman
Camp. CasteU Prysor, mentioned by Pennant, is still more to the
right, in a place caUed Cwm Prysor. After a most dreary ride,
relieved by a fine View of Tan y bwlch, the seat of Mr. Oakley,
niched beautifully amongst fine hanging Woods ; and as we
proceeded, by a View of the whole of that deUghtful little Vale,
-with the Estuary and River winding through rich meadows,
embanked and reclaimed by Mr. Oakley.
Maentwrog Church, which we pass before we come to the
Bridge, is a very simple budding, and has nothing without or
within to attract notice. Came into our Inn at Tan y bwlch
a few minutes before dinner, much disposed to enjoy it. After
dinner, stroUed under Tan y bwlch House as far as the Estuary,
and returned along the Embankment on the opposite side of
the River Wharf, on which lay vast Quantities of a delicate
blue Slate of aU sizes, ready for shipping. They are lighter and
esteemed better than the Carnarvon Slate. They are sold by
weight. They are brought from a little beyond Festiniog, from
Quarries belonging to Manchester Men. Vessels of 200 tons
come up the River to be loaded at Spring tides, and the Slates
are sent down in Boats from the Wharf to them. Returned to
our Inn with a Relish for Tea, and soon after as great a relish
for Bed.

44 TOURS IN WALES
Wednesday, June 14«'.— Sir R. Hoare, having altered his
plan, instead of going to examine the promontory of Deudraeth
to see if any remains of a Castle existed there, to clear up a
passage in Giraldus, we took a ride to see Tommen y Mur, which
we had left to the right yesterday. In going up to it, observe
a ridge running paraUel to the old Road leading to DolgeUy,
which evidently was a portion of the Roman Road which branched
off for Segontium. We aUghted and walked across a smaU
field to the Tumulus or Tommen, which was clearly a Castellum
of the Britons long after the time of the Romans, erected within
their Camp, as being the most commanding situation they could
have chosen, and which, though apparently bleak seen at a
distance, and higher than their Posts in general, determined them
in the choice of it, as no other spot in the vicinity could have
afforded such an extensive View in Front, -with an aspect to the
South on a gentle declivity ; or rendered them so Uttle liable to
surprize. On the Tommen we found no traces of any thing
Roman, and for a good reason, as there is a large Cavity towards
the South, and another towards the North East, which has fairly
disjoined the rampart, and probably a considerable paring all
round, which in all probability might have teemed with brick
and fragments of Pottery, and thrown up to make the insertion
of the bottom of the Tommen, so that what came to fill the
upper part was Virgin Soil. However, in the Stone Hedges
which intersect the area of the Camp, we found great Quantities
of true Roman brick, particularly such as were used to conduct
water, and scored over, of the same quality with those found
in the other Stations. A small mountain Stream ran at the
foot of it, within a small field's distance of the Camp, and water
from a Spring close at the edge of the South side of the Rampart.
There is a little Farm House adjoining, the West end of which
touches the side of the rampart. About 200 yards to the East
of the Camp, at the Edge of the Mountain, is a circular inclosure
formed by a rampart of Earth, probably some place for Roman
Games, for even in the remotest regions, and in the wildest
places of such regions, traces of their luxury are discernible.
By a Countryman were shown part of Fordd Elen, the old
Roman Road that led by way of Penmachno to Conoviuin, the
other going by way of Tan y bwlch to Segontium. Returned
passing near Tyddyndu, where Edmund Prys, who translated
the Psalms into Welsh, lived. Dined, and walked out in the
Evening through Mr. Oakley's grounds, passing a very romantick
picturesque Dingle towards the House, through which a precipi-

CARNARVONSHIRE 45
tons stream rushes, but there was great lack of water. Walked
over to Maent-wrog Church to see a Stone at the West end of it,
to which is attached great Veneration, for they say, Maen tirion
yw Maentwrog. At the East End in the waU my Eye caught a
Roman Sepulchral Stone, inscribed as below, a proof of its bemg
in the neighbourhood of a Roman Station or Road : —
0. MARC.
Thursday, 15*'' June. — Set off about 10 o'clock from Tan y
bwlch for Pwllheli over part of the new Road to Beddgelert, as far
as Traeth Mawr, which is well made, and likely to be well kept
up, as there is an inexhaustible fund of the best materials each
side for that purpose. Leave a very romantick, picturesque
Dingle to the right in our way down to the house of the Guide,
who conveys Passengers over the Sands. The Guide (Male)
not being -nathin, having been called to attend Passengers over
a short time before, a Female mounted a Horse and attended us,
though there was but little occasion for a Guide, as we saw a
large group of Men and Women before us on their return from
the Bala Association going to cross. Meeting the Male Guide,
the Female consigned us to him, and we soon were placed out
of all Danger, in the right track for Mr. Maddocks' new Road
to Penmorfa, which leads at the foot of a most tremendous Range
of rocky precipitous Mountains, richly clad with stunted Oak,
Privet, wUd Rose, Ivy, and Lichens of aU sorts, at the foot of
which most tremendous fragments are scattered in every sort
of direction and shape, the summit of the ridge and the form of
its projections varying at every step.
Though in one sense the Ride is charming, yet it can't faU to
excite a degree of horror, and after it is past, a degree of grati
tude at our preservation. On a little knoU of broken ground,
where the Mountain Ridge leaves a space like a little VaUey,
Mr. Maddocks has buUt a house of a singular Cast -with a Veranda
aU round. He has planted a great deal round, and of various kinds
But his great work is his Embankment, by which he has created
an immense tract of fine land. He has a mUl near his house,
with two stories of Granary over it ; and an immense Area con
taining nothing but Pig stys ; so that I presume the MUl is
principally for the support of the intended inhabitants. It must
be highly gratifying to every man that has the least patriotick
spirit to see the vast improvement that is carrying on in every
part of this country.
Pass Penmorfa, and StymUyn, now belonging to H. Jones,

46 TOURS IN WALES
Attorney, of Machynlleth, when we get again into a reach of
new road carrying on through his property on each side of it as
far as Criccieth, -with noble Hedges. The Castle of Criccieth
is a fine feature, crowning a lofty knoll almost insulated. The
Keep almost entire. The two Bastions forming it fine masonry.
The VUlage very mean, though a contributory borough to Car
narvon. I asked of the Clerk if Criccieth Church contained
anything curious. He answered it did not. It stands a little
way out of the town. Pass Ty newydd, a house I once had taken,
but was prevented happUy from occupying. Gwynfryn the
Seat of my Brother Barrister D. EUis, is opposite to it on the
other side of the ViUage of Llanystumdwy, charmingly situated
in a well wooded Vale watered by a fine Mountain Stream, which
disembogues itself into the Sea a few mUes below. The Church
and Cemetery very picturesque and neat. Cross another Bridge
over the river which waters Mr. Ellis's fine Vale we left to the
right of us.
To the left soon after, we pass three small lakes, but producing
no fish, with a fine view of the Ocean and the Mountains behind
us ; but the finest View of the Mountains is from the Traethau.
Pass on the right near a Mansion, in the midst of modern plant
ations, called Wyrglodd newydd, belonging to a Mr. Jones of
London. Hendref likewise on the right, where the Revd. Mr.
Roberts, Son to the late Archdeacon Roberts, lives. The
Archdeacon died about 2 years ago, and my old Friend Coyt-
more by attending him, caught the same Fever of which he died.
Pass by Abererch to the left, containing nothing curious within,
but two handsome Windows to the East,- for such a Church.
By a circuitous though a good road, observing to the left, within
a mile of the Town, the greatest profusion of the little white Dog
rose, and a variegated one.
Arrive at Pwllheli, properly caUed in Latin Palus salsa, it
being entirely a Salt Lake ; the Entrance being very narrow,
and from the beach not perceptible. Walked down to the
Beach, to whet our appetites before dinner, and inhale a Uttle
Sea breeze, which for six or seven weeks I had not seen. Re
turned and dined on a Flat Fish, but poor, and a Needle Fish,
very good ; Mutton very young ; and a nice Tart, Gooseberry,
and Custard very thm. After Dinner walked to see the Church
of Denio, but were told that there was nothing within worth
inspection, and -without appeared nothing curious. A neat little
copper Tablet was stuck into the wall of the East end, prettily
engraved and inscribed to the memory of a Lady about a Century

CARNARVONSHIRE 47
ago. Saw the stone meant for the grave of poor Coytmore
lying near the gate of the Churchyard.
Then walked up to a Uttle Hill, whence we had a fine view of
the Bay, and a disagreeable one of the Cove of Pwllheli, the
tide being out, and leaving nothing but a little line of water
meandering through dirty Sand and Mud. The Country round
tame and uninteresting, and ill cultivated and poorly wooded.
Walked to a lower Eminence, where we had a full view of the
Town, which is considerable, and very well built. It has one
very large handsome Inn, the Crown and Anchor, with a com
modious back way from the Road. It is paved tolerably. Has
a Town Hall, but a very sorry one. It is a Corporation Town ;
has a mayor, and is a contributory Borough to Carnarvon. There
are a good many Shops, but seems to be dead as to Trade or
Manufacture. Its principal trade is ship building. The Bar at
the entrance of the Estuary a very intricate one. There is a
Free School in the Town, and I believe endowed by the Possessors
of the Corsygedol Property. There seems to be a pretty house
tacked on to the School, which has the look of a small Chapel,,
there being a beU hung without.
Friday, 15 June. — Encouraged by a remarkably fine morning,,
set off early for Ne-vin, passing by Bodvil, in sight of Llannor
Church to the right, and by Bodvean, a seat of Lord Newborough,
and from which place the family originated. Rode up a well
wooded Avenue towards the Mansion, which seemed deserted,
it being seldom resorted to by any of the fainily. Saw a,
modernish looking Church, which induced us to enter it, and
there found some handsome Marble Monuments of the Wynn
family, particularly an elegant white marble Sarcophagus, well
executed, to the memory of the present Lord Newborough's
Father, Sir John Wynn.
Pass under the mountain above Nevin, on the Summit of
which there are several old Entrenchments of Stones, and
circular stone Entrenchments caUed Cyttiau'r Gwyddelod.,
Found Nevin a poor straggUng miserable place, for to be a
contributory Borough, neither dignified with To-wn HaU, or
handsome Church, or ruins of a Castle, yet by Giraldus and
Baldwin's lying there a night, must have formerly had some
attractions which it now cannot boast of, and by its being the
scene of a famous Tournament in Edward's time. The Church
is a most -wretched edifice within and without. The Town
Spring is enclosed, and has the remains of Seats round it, as if

48 TOURS IN WALES
it had been frequented by invalids, who resorted hither for the
benefit of the Water, which has not the appearance of being
tinctured with Mineral. At the West end of the Town, or rather
to the North West, there is a small Tommen ; but seeing some
thing singular about a point of Land projecting towards the
sea to the East of the To-wn, we were tempted to examine it,
accompanied by the only intelligent Man we could meet with in
the place, and found it on nearer inspection to be the abrupt
termination of the high Earth Bulwark which forms the line of
Coast on the North side of Llyn, from which we had a fine view
of the two Bays of Nevin and Porthdinllyn, having a fine Beach.
The former place is talked of as being the most commodious
place to have a packet to, and with this View the most excellent
roads are forming from Penmorfa onwards. Our Guide told
us that to Nevin alone belonged about 50 vessels of different
sizes. To the East of Nevin lies Nant G-wrtheyrn, that savage
looking Valley mentioned by Pennant, open to the Sea on the
North . The Carnarvon Road by Clynnog Vawr leaves it to the
left. Leaving Nevin, we took the Road to Carn Madryn, on the
summit of which Giraldus says the Sons of Conan [Owen] had a
Castle constructed of stone, Castrum lapideum. Rode to Plas
Madryn, the Seat of Parry Jones, Esq', a very singular looking
place, well wooded, and with good land about it. We passed
the House, and crossing two Fields came to a great stone waU,
which we got over, quitting our Horses, and resolved to ascend
the Mountain, but we had not got near half way up, when it came
to rain, with a likelihood of its continuance, so that we thought
it prudent to retrace our steps as fast as we could to our Horses,
when by the time we had mounted it came to hard Rain, which
obliged us to take shelter for about 10 minutes in an outhouse at
Madryn. On a slight appearance for the better, however, we got
out again, but without a cessation of Showers, though not so
heavy, we rode to Pwllheli, where we arrived only a little damped
in the Feet.
Whilst w« sheltered at Madryn, a man there told us that the
only wall, or at least building, where Mortar appears, is to the
West side of the truncated Cone in the middle of the Mountain,
which seemed to have been a square building. He likewise told
us that there were many excavations round this Work in the
Earth or Rock, Uke Punch bowls, with a rampart of Stones
round each, which they caU Cyttiau'r Gwyddelod, probably the
earUest habitations known in this Island, for I don't think the

CARNARVONSHIRE 49
name of Gwyddelod appUes to Irishmen, but to Men in a state
of Nature, before they knew anything of the Arts of civiUzed
life. Saw Brynodol, the seat of — Griffiths, Esq'., to the right of
Madryn. The Church of Bodvean is cruciform.
Saturday, 16th. — Left Pwllheli, and went by way of the
Sands, the tide being out, as far as Abererch, which saved us
a full mile and a half. The Rain of last night had laid the dust,
and there was a smart breeze and the day cloudy, which made it
pleasant travelling. Retracing the Road we had come by, there
was nothing new to observe ; and the Mountains were enveloped,
the highest of them in fleecy clouds, so that the whole range was
not so striking as it otherwise would have been. Beyond
Criccieth met -with Mr. H. Jones and his daughter by his arm,
who, though a child when I last saw her, knew me ; so that I
suppose I am not so much altered in that time as Mr. Jones
appeared to be.
Approaching Mr. Maddox's, observed an elegant walk of great
extent crossing to a rocky insulated hill on his flat inclosure,
planted each side, and meant for a rope walk. Nothing seems to
escape that Gentleman's reach of mind ; for I saw, among other
things he turns to advantage, stones chipped to the shape and
size of the London paving stones, which by the Stillyards* I
saw by, I suppose he sells by the Ton. The Stones appear
exactly of the same Grit with those in my Rock.
Crossed the Sands without a Guide, safe thank God, the
Water in the Glaslyn being rather low and not the least affected
by the rain overnight. At the falling in of the new road into
the old, abandoned our Horses to look for a stone, which I think
I remember to have heard of, if not seen, as having been dug up
near the Road side, with some inscription on it, perhaps a Roman
MilUary ; but could not find it. Returned to the Inn fatigued,
and not sorry to get some trifling refreshment before Dinner,
which we had 3 Hours to wait for.
After Dinner walked out to see the Slate AVbarf , covered with
an immense number of the finest Slates of all sizes I ever saw.
Pursued our walk a little farther, through Mr. Poole's Wood,
over the Harlech Road, which here forms a pleasant Terrace
* Now steelyard, a form due to a popular etymology from steel and yard.
But it is merely shortened from Stilyard-beme, the '' beam " or balance
used in the Steelyard (or StUyard), a meeting place, in London, for German
merchants from the Hanse towns. See Skeat, Etym. Diet. — Ed. E

50 TOURS IN WALES
overlooking the River and the Vale through a Skreen of Oak
Trees, and come to the Bridge over the Velenrhyd, up which
there is a Cataract called Rbaiadr Du, which faUs into a deep
excavation, I suppose in the chaimel of the river, which the
People call a Lake. The Scene about the Bridge so tranquil and
so retired, with a pretty Cottage on one side, induced us to rest
on the Battlements of the Bridge, till a sudden mist (but a Scotch
one) came on, and before we reached our Inn to Tea had damped
us very considerably, but gave us a relish for the most agreeable
of all repasts when fatigued. Observed about Llanystumdwy
a great deal of Broom in the Hedges.
Sunday. — Left Tan y bwlch, and parted with my Friend and
Companion, he turning towards Bala, and my road leading to
Barmouth. After ascending a prodigious steep the other side
of the Bridge we walked to last night, and passing a sort of
Common, at the end of which near the Road side, and just
before you come to the Lake, there is a circle of coarse flags
pitched on their sides. The Lake then opens, called Llyn
Tecwyn, which is of a considerable size, agreeable shape, and
the finest Water I ever saw. The Shores beachy and clean.
It belongs, by a late purchase, to Mr. Oakley who keeps a Boat
on it, but now sunk. I was told by my Guide, the Lad who
carried my cloak bag, that it abounds with Trout and Salmon,
and that there is a tradition that a Town was sunk there, and
that in calm weather, through the transparent water, they
discover the buildings. The boundaries around are wild and
destitute of wood, otherwise it would be most beautiful. At
the western Extremity, the Sea and the Sands open on you
finely and the promontory of Llyn. There is a little Island
inhabited in the midst of the Sands called Ynys Cyftor.
Over a very stony up and down Road to Llandecwyn, a small
Church to the right, and a little farther to the left, Llandecwyn
HaU, as it is called on the Map, formerly an old Plas, but now
not more dignified in its appearance than a common Farm House ;
below which there is a small Lake, with the Edges rushy and
sedgy, yielding Fish, called Llyn Tecwyn Bach. The Road
continues very uninteresting, stony, and steep. Pass Maes y
neuadd, once the seat of hospitality, but now deserted, and
catch a fine peep of Harlech Castle and part of the Village. After a
most arduous, stony ascent, and crossing a very dreary, stony
Mountain, we get into the Turnpike leading from Harlech to
Barmouth. On this Common, fancy I saw remains of something

MERIONETH 51
like Circles of stones, and stones put into other shapes ; but in
such a situation, where there are so many stones in aU directions,
difficult to pronounce on such appearances. However, I think
I may safely say I passed one or two Carneddau, and two of the
Meini hirion, though not very tall ones.
Pass the VUlage of Llanfair with the Church mentioned by
Giraldus, a plain simple building. The Road leads now over a
low Country, Cross a little Estuary near Cae Nest, and a little
beyond to the left, Llanbedr Church. To the Right, in a meadow,
a very high Maen hir, and a lesser one by its side. But no
inscription on either, and no tradition concerning them.
Churches are thickly sown here, for nearer the sea is Llandanwg,
and farther on to the right of the road, Llanenddwyn, and still
farther on, Llanddwywau, the Parish Church of Corsygedol.
The Avenue leading up a hiU to a Wood that surrounds the
House of vast extent. In this Church are the monuments of the
Corsygedol Family for above 200 years, but no recumbent
Figures. A little before, I asked a Countryman, having observed
something like an old paved way striking rather up from the
present road, if he knew, or had heard, of any old Sams in that
part of the Country, he told me there was very near one of that
description observable, which took a direction towards Dolgelly
above Corsygedol.
Leave Llanaber Church to the right, and follow a new road
finely cut through Rocks to avoid the Sand to Barmouth,
where I was civilly received by Mrs. Lewis. Dined, and found
my old Friend Mr. Parry, Parson of Llanaber, there, who was
very pressing with me to accompany him home. After having
settled my Journey for the next day, drank Tea and went to
see my old Friend Nomy and his daughter, who were very glad to
see me, having heard I was dead. The Person who manages for
him, Mr. Matthew, was there, a very shrewd, sensible man, Mr. H.
Owen, of DolgeUy, and Mr. WiUiams, the Attorney of that place,
who promised to meet me at Towyn tomorrow. After sitting
there till Bed time, I took my leave, and walked -with Mr. H. Owen
to the Inn, through mizzling Rain, and owing to an Oak plank
very improperly left to project from a heap of the same sort, I
struck my head violently against it, but providentially my Hat
damped the Blow, and I felt not much pain, and only a little
confusion. Bathed it with Brandy, and took by advice of
Mr. H. Owen, who, it seems, is a medical man, a little inwardly,
and went to my Bed. Barmouth since I saw it about fourteen
years ago, grown a large place, vast number of new and hand-
e2

52 TOURS IN WALES
some houses. A regular Market there. Wonderfully forward
Gardens, though no soil appears, but all sand.
Monday. — Left Barmouth, after waiting some time at the
Ferry, which makes any connection with a Ferry Country very
unpleasant. Rode over the Sands till I came to the Steep, over
which the Road takes very dangerous, as there is no Parapet,
and the Land side frequently breaks down. However, I thank
God, passed it without accident. Came to an old Mansion called
Hendref in a bush of stunted Wood, with an old orchard, near
the Village of Celynnin, a most wretched collection of Cottages on
a Flat at the bottom of the Hills, near a dirty stony Beach open
to the Sea. Mount the Hill, and near the summit, placed on a
projection over the Vale, observe a nearly circular Encampment ;
towards the Sea, on the West, rather precipitous, encircled with
a loose stone Rampart ; towards the East made still stronger
by a Foss, and another Rampart of Earth and Stone.
Thence over a very uninteresting, baddish Road, Mountain sheep
walks to the left, and Sea to the right, till I descend into the Vale
of Towyn. Catch a fine View of Craig y deryn, and the gradation
of Heights between that and Cader Idris, the best side on that
account to judge of its height. Before I come to the Bridge
below Peniarth Issa, observe a Tommen, I believe a real Tumulus
for Interment. Cross the Bridge and the Dysynni, above which
the Tide is felt. On over the Flat, with Ynys y maen gwyn on
the right, and turn into the Road, which in two miles takes me
to Towyn. Opposite to Ynys y maen gwyn, on a brow of a Hill
to the left, saw a Knoll with a flattened Tommen on it, and a
little Foss all round.
Arrive at Towyn about one. Took a crust of Bread, and on a
fresh Horse set off for Cefn y Gaer, through a beautiful VaUey,
in general very narrow, with a number of pretty Bits here and
there, the Road almost all the way very good. At Pennal, a
tidy Village, the Vale expands, forming a very picturesque
amphitheatre. Cefn y Gaer is precisely the same sort of situation
as the others I saw, on which Roman Stations are placed — a gentle
rising with a declivity to the South and the River Dovey. The
Farm House and out buildings seem to occupy a great part of what
was once the Area of the Camp, part of the Angle of the Ramparts
being evidently discernible just behind one of the Houses ; but
the other part, happening to run through the middle of Fields,
is so levelled that a correct tracing of it cannot be made, now
the Fields being in Com ; but I found sufficient evidence to prove

MERIONETH 53
it a very considerable Station, Bricks of every sort occurring every
where, and were the Fields not under Corn pretty tall, much
Pottery too. I picked up a bit with the true old glaze on it.
The people told me that in earthing of Potatoes, they were used
to dig up Bricks and Pottery in abundance. A Pot of Silver Coins
had been dug up in the time of the former Tenant, which were
given the Landlord, a Mr. Pugh of Garthmeilion.
Returned, dined, and met Mr. WiUiams, Attorney, of Dolgelly,
with whom I walked out in the Evening to see the miraculous
Well of Cadfan, and take off two inscriptions from Tombs in the
Church.* Then called on the Vicar of the Parish, a Mr. Davies,
who told me that the Causeway from Cefn y Gaer down to the
fordable part of the Dovey opposite to Garreg was now to be
traced, and that he had seen it. Heard of Mr. WiUiams that at
Caethle, an old Mansion House once of the Vaughans, an extinct
family, and now belonging to Mr. Corbet, there is a vast collection
of old family Papers, which probably may contain very curious
documents. * On a grave stone in Towyn Churchyard, written by the late Narmey
Wynn, Esq'', Maesyneuadd : —
To the Memory of Hugh ElUs, Harper, who was drown'd in Dysynni,
Augt. 5th, 1774, in the 60th year of his Age.
The Nymphs of y" Flood were rutting, plague rot 'em.
When the Genius of Musick went to the bottom ;
Their care and attention would else have supported
The Child of the Harp whom y« Muses all courted.

54 TOURS IN WALES
Carma rthenshire*(1809).
Hence to Llansawel, a smaU VUlage with 2 or 3 pubUck Houses.
The Church has a tower, but is a poor miserable building -without
and -within. No Monument. Pass Edwinsford, an old Mansion,
pretty large, lying low on the banks of the Cothy, which winds
under the beautifully wooded Hills near it. There is a large
walled Garden, a great part of which is of mud, said to be the
best for fruit. To characterize the different farm Offices, there
occur several well executed figures in lead painted, such as a
large Pig near the Piggery, Hay makers near the Haggard, and
at the Stables or Kennel an admirable fowler. Near the House
are shewn 13 large Trees planted the year Tho^ WiUiams Esq'
of this House was Sheriff, by him and his 12 Javelin Men after
their return from the Spring Assizes — a central tree with 12
others round it.
A little farther on opens the Vale of Talley or Tal y Llychau,
taking its name from its situation near two Lakes, the largest
near a MUe and a Quarter round, and the lesser about a MUe.
The Water LUy adorn the sides. They abound with Eels,
Perch and Pike. The water belongs to Ed-winsford, and Fish
for their own consumption, but the property besides in the
Fishing is in Admiral Foley as Lord of Llansadwrn. The Road
about a Mile or a MUe and a half farther on takes its course on
the declivity of the HiU through fine woods belonging to one
Nicholas, and Taliaris. Enter, after passing a small neat chapel
in a sequestered situation belonging to TaUaris. Enter the
Grounds by a handsome Gate through a winding Avenue, weU
wooded by thriving plantations of the present owner, inter
spersed with some few venerable Foresters. The Mansion on
two sides presents rather magnfficent fronts, and was certainly
meant for a cube, the most prevailing figure then foUowed, but
the plan being contracted, the capacity of the House faUs very
short of its imposing appearance in the fronts seen. It has a
large WaUed Garden, and is surrounded on all sides by rich
woods, and backed by a ridge of high and parkish ground, ending
in a mountainous summit, with a broken outline.
* MS. 2.57.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 55
Ascend the HUl, and find on the other side a Lake about
three quarters of a MUe round, stocked with Perch -and Eels.
Near its edge, on a rough piece of ground, is the circle mentioned
by Ed. Lhwyd. The Lake seems to have been one of those
Craters, where the fountains of the great deep were broken up,
out of which, with the water, were vomited forth the lava of
stones on its banks. The Hill to the North was occupied by
a sort of Encampment with an Agger of the loose stones every
where covering it, called the Gaer Vawr. Under the Camp, on
the side of the HiU, issues a Spring, to which the common people
ascribe many medical, almost miraculous, powers, and it acts
sometimes as an Emetick ; and a little lower down a Water
used in Complaints of the Eye. On a little rising to the left
there were small Cannon found. Pass over a Common all the
way to Penylan. On that next to Taliaris observe many small
Carneddau, but without exploring them, it is not safe to say
for what use collected. On the next common, belonging to
Llanfynydd, a small Tumulus-like Elevation, with an outer
Edge of stones, called Croes John Gwilym, near a spot where
the Roads intersect.
Set off and mustered Men at Llanfynydd to attempt
opening what I thought Tumuli on the Mountain. The first,
though fiat at top, was made very round, and had a flattering
appearance. On paring off the thick sward of Turf, found it
all Stones. Made a large section but found nothing, though
we might not have taken a sufficiently large section. We pro
ceeded to another elevation a little farther on ; but in 5 Minutes
found that it was only an old heap of Earth thrown up, when
they were digguig for Turf or making Peat land, there being not
the least indication of burning, and the natural soU soon appearing.
Near the first it seems are the limits of two Lordships, and it
might have served as the Boundary mark.
Return by a large Stone deeply bedded in the Earth, concerning
which there is a tradition that the great grandfather of the
present Curate of Llanfynydd, a great Miser and Usurer, had
lent the sum of £300 to some Gypsies, tempted to do so by the
offer of extravagant Interest for the loan— ^at least 3 fold — but
that the money would be left under that Stone ; but that he
must not impatiently attempt to look for it, tiU he should know
from them that they were returned to Egypt. But he, not
attending to such conditions, went to look for his money before
the appointed time, but that it came to thunder and Ughten,

56 TOURS IN WALES
SO that he could not prosecute his Enquiry ; and it was beUeved
and reported that in many subsequent attempts people had
met -with the same obstraction. However, there is a recent
appearance of digging about it, and I was told by my guide
that he was one of the actors, but that after great toU, they
foimd, the more they dug on one side, where the Heel of the
Stone was deeply bedded in the Earth, the more it sunk, and
so it was left ; whereas, by means of a Uttle powder, the whole
might have been blasted in an hour's time.
I was likewise told that Sir Joseph Bankes, who, when on a
visit some 25 years ago at Edwinsford, had opened many tumuli,
and prosecuted a variety of Antiquarian researches, had in
digging in boggy ground on the moimtain, found a Hat of felt
not decayed ; and that about 3 feet lower, a Hilt of a sword
was found ; and about 2 feet and a half lower, shoes and some
thing like Buckles, supposed to have belonged to some person,
who, crossing the mountains, had been sunk in the Bog.
,A-t Middleton Hall, where I arrived on Saturday.
Sunday. — In company with the two young Mr. Paxton's, set
off to view a Lake about 3 Miles off belonging to the Bishop.
Got to the summit of the mountainous lime stone Ridge separating
Middleton Hall from the Vale of Llandebie, the greater part of
which is downy. Get a fine and extensive prospect of the
country round, and a peep of the Sea in two places, -with the
Promontory of Gower. The Lake is about a Mile and a half,
or near two Miles, round. On one side, where the banks are
boggy, covered -with the white Water Lily, interspersed with
the Nyniphcea lutea ; on the other Sides, the Stones gravelly.
It abounds with Perch and Eels, but I could not hear of any
Trout. Pursue our ride to the extremity of this ridge, the summit
of which is much broken Eastward, and find the highest points
ending in immense Carneddau, which we propose soon making
a party to open.
On our return, and in approaching the Tower, get a fine
Bird's Eye view of the House and grounds of Middleton HaU,
which has the most truly parkish and elegant appearance of
any place in the Country. In the Evening walked nearly round
the Grounds, pursuing the course of the Drive, and the more
I see the more I admire the place and the manner in which it
has been laid out.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 57
Monday. — Took horse early to visit the source of the Lochor
and Carreg Kennan, but in consequence of my horse losing
a shoe an Hour was lost. The shoe being replaced, we proceeded
along that ridge which involves the summit called Llygad y Byd,
where the prospect is remarkably striking and extensive. Fall
do-wn through winding roads to Derwydd, an old well wooded
Demesne of Sir J. Stepney, once the residence of Sir J"° Vaughan,
a Judge on the Circuit, in whose possession I find by reference
from many MSS. were many valuable documents relative to
Welsh Antiquity.
Ascend towards the Lochor, in our way catching many beau
tiful views of Carreg Kennan. Pass Cwrt Bryn y Beirdd, a very
large and remarkably built ancient Mansion, never modernized,
but exhibiting the perfect costume of the Age it was built in,
which might be prior to the time of Henry 7*''. It was entered
by a Gateway, but not arched, with arched Doorways, and
the small windows with red cut stone frames. The building
now appropriated to Barn, Stables, &c., appeared by the
Windows now stopped up to have been part of the Mansion.
To enquire of family that last inhabited it, the Heiress of which
married into Golden Grove ; and to endeavour to find out
(if any cause) that which gave rise to its name.
Descend a craggy Umestone knoll, and diverge to the right
on the flat a little way, and to the source of the Loughor, or at
least to the spot whence it issues from under the Limestone
Rock, which here exhibits a ragged front, with many small
adits branching -within into others, and sinking do-wn to the
Water. We got a Candle, but could not perceive any very
wide chambers, as they were represented to us. Just where the
greatest stream issues there appears to be a small deep Pool
with no bottom seen. In my opinion it flows under this ridge
of Limestone Mountain from the Lake by the Van. The
Limestone Rock above the River prettily overgro-wn with
tangled growth, but it fell short on the whole of the description
given me of it.
The Stream holds its course subterraneously till it breaks out
from under the Limestone rock, caUed the eye of the Lochor,
and this was proved by this means. Some Gentlemen threw
a great quantity of Chaff on the Lake, and at the place called
Llygad Lochor stationed a person to watch the effect, who saw
the Chaff issue out with the Stream.
Cross the Vale to Carreg Kennan, passing through Lanes
weU covered with growth and rich land. The little Dingle

58 TOURS IN WALES
through which the Kennan passes is well wooded. Leave our
Horses at a Farmer's, Tenant to Lord Cawdor, just at the foot
of the HiU on which the Castle stands towards the North. On
this side, and this side only, is the Castle accessible, it being
built on the summit of an insulated (nearly) Limestone Rock,
rising to a vast height, almost perpendictdarly, from the Kenan,
and made more so, it is said, by art.
The outer wall of this curious pile unites with, the Rock on
the South side, and seems part of it, the Rock and Castle, which
is built of the Limestone, so closely harmonizing in point of
Colour. On the East side the HiU slopes for a considerable
way, till it comes to the Rock, which is abrupt and perpendicular
to a certain height, and so on the West side, being additionally
strengthened by deep ravines cut across the rocky ridge. Even
on the North side, which you may call the Landside, the HUl
is rendered more inaccessible by Art.
On the East side was the Entrance, protected by a Barbican
and an outer Ballium. The road then lay by a gentle ascent
within a skreen of strong wall to the North ; then it turned to
an Entrance by two PortcuUised Doors to the great area in
which were the State Apartments, Kitchen, &c. Out of this
Area, by a flight of steps descending close to the North waU,
and within it through a passage only lighted by Eyelet Holes,
to a natural Cavern in the Limestone Rock for a great length of
way, the Roof covered with curious incrustations of petrified
Water, when, after descending a great way, you meet with a
small bason, holding about a Quart, in the Rock, filled with
water quite brilliant that oozes out of the Limestone. This is
said to be good for the Eyes, as is another small cavity, with
a weeping from the Rock supplying it, for the Ears. Still
lower do-wn there is a more considerable Bason full of water,
which, though not abundantly, is continually, supplied, and
by being constantly caught in vessels might well have suppUed
the Garrison during the time of siege. There appeared to have
been an Adit, or rather sinking, at the extremity of this last
Chamber, for it widens here, now stopped up, which. Tradition
says, communicated with a Passage or Tunnel under the River
Kennan to Bryn y Beirdd. In our way down, just where the
artificial arched passage ends and unites with the natural Cavern
in an open space lighted by three small openings through the
wall growing out of the Rock in the wall supporting the steps
by which you descend, there are several pigeon holes for the

CARMARTHENSHIRE 59
reception of those Birds who frequented them through the
above openings.
No Apartments towards the west. One round Bastion at
the North-West contained Rooms. The whole Edifice very
strong, large, and, at present, very picturesque, but much
injury has been of late done it, by picking out the cut stones
from the bottom of the building, and by some outrage done it
everywhere. I hope Lord Cawdor will put a stop to it. Saw
two Privys.
CasteU Carreg Kennan does not answer the description given
by Leland. But Lord Dynevor says that much is worked away
since that time. He told me that some of his Servants, with
lights and a clue of Pack thread, entered a great way into the
Caverns of the source of the Lochor ; that after passing the
first dip which reaches to the Water, the Adit takes a Course
beyond it, and higher up, and branches out into various Chambers.
Wednesday. — ^With the old Llandebie Harper Morris for our
Guide, we set off, and first touch at Derwydd,* the antient
Seat of the Vaughans. It is an irregular building. Had a
large court before it, and Gardens behind it, on a declivity
with Terraces. Enter the Garden from a landing place of
stairs. Into the different rooms ; so irregularly are they con
nected, that you ascend and descend. Boards of black Oak,
so coarsely wrought, that they appear to be only smoothed,
and that very indifferently, with the adz. The walls of most
of the rooms hung with Canvas, painted with Dogs and other
Animals, and Trees. In the old Stucco, Coats of Arms every
where. Saw a portrait of the late Lady Stepney ; and another
of the old RoyaUst, Sir H. Vaughan ; and the Model of a Monu
ment on a favourite Dog of Lady Stepney's. An old Building,
built 1638, detached from the House.
Hence to see the Maen hir. To the left of the Road leading
to Llandilo, on a farm called Bryn (I beUeve) Cethin.f It lies
close to the side of what was formerly the Sarn Elen, now Uke
an old Lane covered with Brush wood, and from its being stony
never brought into cultivation. The Stone is about 8 or 9 feet
high, of the coarse grit of the Country, not worked, but bears
the impression of a Cross Bow, not very deeply cut on it.
* For this Tudor mansion (one of the residences of Sir Rhys ab Thomas),
its history and contents, see Arch. Camb., 1893, pp. 154-63.— Ed.
f Correctly, Cefn Cethin. For a description and illustration of the stone,
see Arch. Camb., 1893, pp. 152-4.— Ed.

60 TOURS IN WALES
Descend the HUl, and then ascend on the other side to see the
Spring at Lhandyvaen— caUed by E. Llwyd Gwyddvaen— of
great resort in former days, many medicinal properties being
ascribed to it. It is inclosed in a square buUding, with steps
going down to it, uncovered. The Water has a waddyish,
unctuous appearance, like the Well at Towyn. Near is a small
chapel served once a month. It is under LlandeUo.
Hence to Clynhir the Seat of Mr. Du Buisson, who came intO'
this country concerned in an Iron Work, which was carried on
by the River Lochor, which passes through the farm of Clynhir,
now made by great perseverance and profound agricultural
knowledge, from cold mountain ground, as good land as any in
the County. Here the Gardens, by being well sheltered, are pro
ductive of most exceUent fruit. To the South of the House,
passing the Gardens, you descend into a deep and beautifully
wooded Valley, at least a Mile in length, and crossing a wooden
bridge over a deep rocky channel, through which the River
takes its course, you turn to the left on the other side, and after
crossing a little gulley in the HiU, do-wn which a most picturesque
torrent constantly pours, as may be seen by the attrition of the
rocky channel it frets its way through, you walk down by the
margin of the whole River, which, just above you, is precipitated
down a steep  [sic] high, forming the most graceful and elegant
fall I ever saw, -with the finest possible accompaniment of Wood.
Hence to Llandebie, where, before you enter the VUlage,
occurs a very copious Spring, and formerly much resorted to,
called Ffynnon Tabitha.* Llandebie is a pretty viUage situated
on a flat in the Vale. Has a weU-looking Church with a handsome
Tower. It is divided lengthways by a row of PiUars, pointed
Arches, and by 2 Arches from Chancel. There are some hand
some Marble Monuments, and one, with his Bust in Stone, to the
Memory of the Royalist Sir H. Vaughan. Neatly pewed. There
is a large Inn here, where one may meet with very decent
Accomodations. Hence to see the head of the River of Gwenlais, a smaU
tributary River rising to the Westward of the VUlage and faUing
into the Llochor. The Spring is very redundant, and issues from
under the Limestone. Water very soft and pure. E. Lh-wyd
mentions a Chapel here, and probably stood near the great Yew
tree overhanging the Spring. The tradition is, of this Spring,
* By this is meant Ffynnon Dybie, now generally kno-wn as Ffynnon
Bie.— Ed.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 61
as of that of HolyweU, that a Virgin was there murdered, and
that on the Spot a spring gushed out. The Spring has two eyes,
they say, of a very diff*^ nature ; the water of both very clear,
cold, and soft. They shew a Cavity, about the size of a Grave,
near the WeU, on very dry ground, of which it is said that, fiU
it as often as you please to the surface (and the farmer who
occupies the field it is in, has frequently done so), it wiU always
sink to the same depth, that is, about a foot or 15 Inches from
the surface.
Near the Gwenlais, to the left of its stream, is a place called
Dinas, on the summit of which is a beacon. In this HiU they
say there are Caverns, in some of which are supposed to be
sleepers {Vide Lhwyd) ; and there is a long story told by the
common people of Owen Lawgoch, the same man that gave
name to the Lake called Llyn Llech Owen.
Friday. — Rode out to see Crug, where the ancestors of Lord
Dynevor lived, as is said, formerly. No traces of any antient
grandeur. Near this place is a spring very copious, which comes
out of an artfficial duct for a little way into a small spout. It
is said to ebb and flow regularly with the tides. The Woman in
the adjoining Cottage assured me that the thing was evidently
seen every day ; and when I visited it, the water appeared to
have returned much, the surrounding ground and banks bearing
marks of the water having been higher.
Proceeded to Llanegwad, near which place I was told, and not
by ordinary people, but by Clergymen and Gentlemen, that in a
Hedge much overgrown with Briars there was a Stone with an
Inscription. By much enquiry I found the Stone, which proved
(to my great mortffication) to be a stone placed there about 40
years ago, with Miros East on it, to point out how far a farm of
that name near was to repair the road on the edge of which it
stands, before the Turnpike was set up.
Dynevor.
Every time I visit Dynevor I find fresh Beauties. The undula
tion of the surface of the whole Park is not to be equalled by
anything in the Kingdom ; and the magnificence of the woods,
whether we consider the disposition of their masses, the size and
picturesque growth of particular trees, and their great variety, is
unrivaUed. There are some Cherry trees of a vast growth.
The House, as I find by some old paintings, or rather daubs, was

62 TOURS IN WALES
originally the same as it now appears, -with only the addition of the
Turrets at the Angles. Behind the House to the West was the
town called Trenewydd, and from that translated Newtown,
which sprang up when the Castle became the property of the
ancestors of the present Lord. In a poem to Griffith Nicholas,
he is styled of Trene-wydd. (Quere when the name first obtained
and how).
There is a fine echo not far from the House. Is Umited to a
small space ; reverberates a whole sentence very plain. A
curious breed of white Cattle, though the Bull is black. Coins
lately found there, silver, Roman — some of Domitian ; found
in an earthen Vessel of the substance of a modern Teapot, only
part of the sides and bottom whole. It was so decayed that its
colour could not be well ascertained ; but by its thinness there
can be no doubt of its being Roman pottery. Perhaps the
Station might have been near the spot. Found in that place
where the intended Garden is making.
Monday. — Took my horse, and in consequence of the long run
of dry weather, I thought I might be likely to discover traces
of the course of the old Roman Road. Was she-wn a portion of
it in a corn field of a tenant of Admiral Foley's, where the Gro-wth
in a Une across the field was stunted. It is plainly seen, at various
intervals, all down the Vale from Llanfair ar y bryn. Traced a
very perfect bit in a field near the Turnpike to the South of
Admiral Foley's in a field where there is a heap of bricks. Its
course is perfectly strait, and quite yellow, the Grass being quite
burnt up. It crosses the present turnpike road, and where its
course is broken by the ditch of the hedge, you see its shape,
and the materials it is formed of, as well as -width, by the broken
edge of the bank — being an aggregate of River pebbles.
Friday.- — Rode to Llanfair ar y Bryn. Called at the Vicar's
there, where I was informed there were some Roman relicks to
be seen. The Vicar was not at home, but his Wife and Daughter
shewed me all that they had found since they had lived there,
which was half an earthen Vessel, fine red Pottery stained, -with
the letters foUowing as weU as I could make them out, at bottom—
DIG ATI.
Two Seals found m digging the Garden by the young Lady,
one a red Cornelian, with the impression as taken off at the end
of the book, No. 1 ; and another, a white Cornelian, No. 2 ; and
a Jet Bead, but I think of more modern date. I was told that

CARMARTHENSHIRE 63
Mr. Gwynne of Glanbrane has part of a Roman Pitcher with a
handle, found in making the new Road round the Church. I
did not know that it was at that Vicarage the stone -with the
sculptured Goat on it, in the supposed act of vomiting, was to
be seen.
Saw a very undoubted Reach of the Roman Road in the field
to the right of the Finger Post first occurring after passing Ystrad
Gate. It is clearly distinguishable the whole length of the field,
being entirely yellow, the Grass being fairly burnt up, exactly
as it appears in the Brick Field near Admiral Foley's [Aber-
marlais], and exactly of the same breadth. At the West end of
the Field it comes out near a Cottage, and for two Miles farther
on takes the course of the present Turnpike road, and then faUs
into the long tract of Meadows and highly cultivated Vale near
the margin of the Towy, now with its surface so altered, and so
intersected -with numerous inclosures in every direction, that
only by snatches you can follow it ; yet the intervals of its
disappearance are not of that extent as to leave any doubt of
its bearings. The Great Stone.
Monday, 3P* July [1809]. — Refiectuig that we had imperfectly
examined the great Stone, and that we had pushed the work of
the Pickaxe so far as to ascertain the nature of the ground
exactly under its centre, attended by my Friend Doctor Symmons,
I attacked it again with his Labourers, who dug fairly under it
tiU we saw light through, and dug so low that we came to the
natural soU, a loose rab mixed with clay. Nothing turned up to
indicate its having been sepulchral, neither charcoal, bone, or
reUcks. The Stone is of a trancated Pyramidal shape, a mass
about 20 or 25 Ton weight, in height [not filled in]. If it had
been an object of idolatrous worship, it probably would have borne
a more grotesque appearance, or supposing it might from its
stabUity conveyed a symbol of the Deity, yet we should as in
general is the case, find it accompanied -with circles or some other
Draidical relicks. It may then be more properly considered to
be some trophy or memorial of a battle or a federal compact.
Tuesday, 1st August.— CaUed on a Mr. Lewis of GUvach, who
accompanied me to shew me a bit of the Roman Road, the very
portion aUuded to in Ed. Lhwyd's MS., near a place caUed Pentre
Cwn, a littie to the North of the present Turnpike Road from

64 TOURS IN WALES
Llandovery to Caio. Another portion has been observed in the
low grounds nearer Caio, under a Farm called Porth y Rhyd.
The portion I saw was a raised Ridge from 15 to 20 feet wide,
passing through a moory piece of ground, yet retaining a very
solid and firm appearance.
In our way thither stop to see a Maen hir, caUed Maen Levan,
about 8 Feet above Ground, a rude Stone, bo-wing near the Top.
I saw another Stone of a more stunted Shape in a Field not far
from the above reach of the Roman Road, called Maes y Llechau,
there having been other accompanying Stones there formerly.
To my great Joy heard from my excellent friend Sir R''. Hoare,
and to my no small confusion of head, smoked a Segar in company
-with my oldest friend. Doctor Symmons. I know not if it be
worth while serving so disagreeable an Apprenticeship to learn
the Art ; but if I could once get over the little sickness it
occasions, I have reason to think that it might contribute to
help and concentrate thought, which I much stand in need of.
Meddygon Myddfai.
Mr. Lewis told me that those old Hereditary Physicians lived
at the great house in the ViUage of Myddfai, and that the family
of Jones, who lived at Tyissa, were their descendants, and that
the family was never -without a medical man in it. There was
one branch of the Jones's settled at Carreg Vychan, just by
Carreg Levan. The elder Branch centres in the House of Lloyd
of Llanvallen, in Brecknockshire.
He told me there was a Family of the name of AUen of some
respect settled at Tref Bannau, in Cilycwm. There was one
called Maccleston Allen. He thought they might have originally
been a branch of the Fitz Alans, Earls of Arundel, who had
possessions about Oswestry, as by the Will of one of the Family
of Tref Bannau there was an annual sum to be paid to some Church
or Parish in or near Oswestry.
Monday. — At Pantycendy. Walked to see Abernant Church,
of which James Howell's father was once Vicar. He lived at a
place called Bryn, where James Howel was born. The Church
is but a little poor building, but situated in a very prettily wooded
dingle. The Churchyard is remarkably large, and contained not
many years ago a great deal of fine large timber and some quite
hoUow and of great girth. The Trunk of one of this sort, quite
hoUow, I saw, and the old stool was 11 Feet over. Mr. Evans has

CARMARTHENSHIRE 65
part of one of the branches in a field above his house, of pro
digious thickness, on which he has a weathercock.
Returned from my walk and rode to see Merthjrr, a farm of
Mr. Evans's, richly wooded. Near this House, in making a
new road, Mr. Evans picked up one of the flint CuUores
excoriatorii, such as were found near Ffynnon Druidion. This
Place probably was the residence of the founders of the neigh
bouring Church called Merthyr. A rectory.
Hence to Court Derllys, the old seat of the Vaughans, the
same as those who went to settle at Derwydd. Of this House
were Sir John Vaughan, Judge of the Carmarthen Circuit,
and Sir Harry Vaughan, the Royalist. The House I was
disappointed in, expecting to have found it larger, and retaining
marks of more consequence. There is a large Demesne annexed,
and a considerable portion of property adjoining, now the
property of Mr. Hamilyn WiUiams. Visit Merthyr Church, no
great distance from this old Mansion. It is very smaU, but neat
-within ; floor bricked. No Monument, but a Tablet to the
inemory of Mrs. Arabella Williams, who was one of the coheiresses
of DerUys House. Church prettily situated on a Knoll at the
head of a narrow Dingle.
Tuesday. — Rode to see a Tumulus about a mile and a half to
the Eastward of Pantycendy. It is sodded without, but within
it appears to be a mixture of Earth and stone. From its
remarkably conspicuous situation, I should think it a Beacon,
as it takes in the Sea Coast, and a wide Circuit of inland Country ;
but it originally might have been sepulchral, and like many of
the Tumuli used in after times for a Beacon. Too large to admit
of being tried during my short stay.
Return to join my worthy Host, on a ride through richly
wooded Valleys, to Mydrim, a singularly pretty ViUage, situated
on an elevated projection overhanging a little River, of which the
Church and Cemetery occupy the greatest part. The Church,
though not dignffied -with a steeple, yet is a respectable church
within, and large. Two or three Marble Monuments to the
famUy of the Thomas's of Castle Gorvod, particularly one very
handsome one, erected by the Coheiresses of Castle Gorvod,
Mrs. Bowen of Llwyngwair, and Mrs. Lloyd of Coedma-wr, to the
memory of their Father and two Uncles, Brothers of the House of
Castle Gorvod, whose properties centred in them.
Take the new road to S' Clears through a beautiful and richly
wooded Vale even now, but in which Timber of enormous size
F

66 TOURS IN W.ILES
have been cut down, within these 40 or 50 years. Crossed over
to a farm caUed Pant y Brodyr to see an old Oak, the Monarch
of the Country, and worthy of being ranked among the extra
ordinary trees of the Kingdom. The trunk, which may be 20 Feet
high or more, is hoUow, and has an opening on one side so large,
at one time, as to have contained a long berry cart, wheels and
all, its pole placed upright ; but of late years the aperture is
contracted, the sides growing more together. The Branches
that surmount the Trunk seem vigorous, and fuU of leaves, and
yet bear Acorns in abundance. The Trunk is the great resort of
Owls. Its circumference, and not taking at the very lowest
girth, was 30 Feet. At this farm and the neighbouring one,
called Pento-wyn, there has from time to time been cut down
Timber of immense size and Value. In Wales, there does not
seem to be a part better calculated for the growth of Oak, particu
larly, the whole Country hereabouts being broken into little
Valleys, very deep, and well sheltered from the Sea breeze,
which never can annoy them.
Wednesday. — Breakfasted with Mr. HalUday at his beautiful
Villa, called Mount Pleasant, -within a MUe of the town of
Carmarthen, and though placed on a considerable height, not
commanding a view of it. Rode up to see an elevation in a
field, called Cryg y garn, but from its appearance, I suspect it to
be a natural rising, and a bit of rock appears ; but yet it may,
being a very commanding spot, have been used as a beacon.
The View from it most charming. See the Turrets of Llan
stephan Castle only, peeping over the intervening ground.
After a ride through deep dingles and high Mils, some wooded
to the top, got to the Vale of Gwenffrwd, so called from a fall in
a white spout over a rock, worn into a deep channel at the head of
the Vale. I forgot to say that a little below Twm Sion Catty's
Cave, the Towy is enlarged by its junction Avith two tribuatary
streams, the Doethie and the Pyscotwr, being each of them very
turbulent streams. The Gwenffrwd is enlarged by a tribuatary
stream called the Hernin. The extremity of Forest yr Escob,
an immense tract extending 20 Miles, is on the other side of the
Towy, opposite to Ystradffin, presenting a very grand bold outUne,
rocky, indented, and in places woody. The Lordship of
Ystradffin caUed Rhandir yr Abad.
Pursue the Vale of Gwenffrwd, and a little farther over a small

CARMARTHENSHIRE 67
neck of land to the head of the Cothy, where under a pretty fall
is the hoUowed bason, round like a pot, into which it faUs, caUed
PwU Uffern. Near this place it is supposed, by a dam across this
narrow part from Rock to Rock, the Cothy was raised and carried
by a duct, now to be traced to the Gogovau by the Romans.
N.B. — In Lhyn Berwyn a fish taken supposed to be the gUt
char. Ride to Ystradffin and the Mine. Remark that all the Vales
branching out of the Towy on both sides are very beautiful and
varied, and none more so than the Vale of CU y Cwm, which is
entered by a narrow pass, and expands towards the middle.
Is well wooded and watered by the River Towy, and broken by
numerous indented Hill Boundaries, opening into other small
Vales, through which some mountain rill forces its way.
Besides, the whole Vale is studded with small insulated knoUs
well wooded, and in all the different varieties of the Cone form.
Nant M-wyn, where the Agent of the Mines lives, is prettily
situated. A good house, garden well laid out, on a slope to the
sun. Towy at bottom of the slope. Lord Cawdor's property
aU round for a great extent.
N.B. — Was told that in several of the old houses of this district
may be seen two Scythes placed across the Chimneys, their ends
fast in the Walls with the edge up, for the purpose of protecting
their habitations from the thieves that infested in early times
that Country, and came in to plunder through this Aperture.
N.B. — Llith Vaen found in these Mountains, which I apprehend
is the Lac Lunce, and given in a small quantity in Milk for the
Hydrophobia. To Ystradffin, folio-wing the course of the Towy till we
come to a most singularly grand conical hill, with its side, as then
facing us, covered with Oaks, and its summit shewing portions
of rock and tangled growth. Ride at the foot of it to Ystradffin,
where nothing now appears but a large farm House, and the old
out houses, not that I suppose the original mansion was of a
much more splendid appearance, only higher and more irregular,
the old houses of that day being chiefly an irregular aggregate of
different ages, increasing from time to time to accommodate itself
to the introduction of a new Bride, or an addition to the famUy by
chUdren or otherwise. It is placed for the convenience of water
just at the mouth of a little woody guUy, through which rashes
a mountain torrent. The HUls at the back of it an extensive
tract, very downy, lofty, and a fine Sheep walk — the Farmer
tenant at Ystradffin having generally from 1,500 to 2,000 sheep.
f2

68 TOURS IN WALES
At the entrance of the Avenue leading from the main road to the
House a tree grew, on a spot pitched in form of a grave ; but on
taking the pitching away, nothing sepulchral was discovered,
but they did not dig very deep.
About 300 yards from the House is the inclosure where formerly
stood the Chapel of Ystradffin, now faUen down. Service is now
performed in a miserable cot just above a little stream on the
road to the Agent's house at Nant y m-wyn, called Nant y Bai.
Ride round the curious and romantick conical hUl already
mentioned, rising almost perpendicular from the Towy, its rocky
sides thinly covered -with wood, giving it a fine effect, the Hill
being formed of coarse slaty strata, breaking off in immense
lamina. The channel of the River here is obstructed by vast
fragments, which, in the lapse of the Ages, have fallen from the
Mountain, and the water finds difficulty to forge a passage in
many places through them, which causes the formation of a
number of little cataracts, and even at any state of the Water
produces a grand appearance. I can't say I ever in North Wales
saw anything equal to it. A Uttle way do-wn over a part ahnost
entirely blocked up with those stupendous fragments, there is a
picturesque wooden bridge, leading to Twm Sion Catty's Cave,
which I did not visit — there down as far as Maes Llan Wrthol.
And there exists a tradition that here was a great to-wn, caUed
Tref coch yn Neheubarth ; and by finding ornaments of Gold,
we are justffied in supposing that the Ore there found was Gold ;
and by finding other Works of Art there that it was a great place.
In the Caves, on the slaty and rocky sides of them, the Matris
of the Ore, there are evident Marks of different sized Wedges
used. And on the summit of the Hill there is shewn an old Duct
which it is said brought the Cothy from PwU Uffern to supply a
Mill the Legion had here, the place to this day being called
Melyn MUw)^. Saw a slate Quarry just at the foot of the hUl
that forms Llansadwrn Common, of a blue colour, but not
splitting with very thin Lamina, and very heavy, yet a valuable
acquisition to an inland country.
Llys Brychan.
June 23"'. — On this spot now stands a smaU farm house, in
the Hedges round which are thickly interspersed fragments of
all sorts of Roman bricks. In digging their Garden lately they
came to masonry, -with true Roman cement, formed of Ume and
bits of bricks and gravel. An old woman in the neighbourhood

CARMARTHENSHIRE 69
says that she remembers the discovery of some chambers under
ground, which she caUed Vaults (perhaps Baths), with much
bricks, and work such as never was seen in the Country. I
picked up a fragment of a very curious piece of pottery, seemingly
made of the Stone of the Country pounded into a powder, and
then made into a paste, and so baked ; of a bluish colour, ex
tremely thick and weU wrought.
There are no indications, that I could even fancy, of a Square
agger with rounded Angles, to prove it a Station ; but the whole
place, by fences and cultivation, has undergone such changes that
such marks might be done away. I think it was more probably a
VUla ; and that the Station is yet to be discovered. On the side
of the present high road, close to the Hedge opposite this spot,
there is a pretty large Maen hir ; and still farther on there were
two others of the same kind, but now removed. I looked
minutely over the existing one, but could find nothing like an
inscription, otherwise I should have concluded them to have
been miUiaries. To Llanwrda and Llangattock Castle.
June 24**^. — Llanwrda Church stands in a most sequestered
spot on the banks of the little River Dulas that falls into the
To-wy near Pentre Meyrig. Church quite plain, no steeple,
and within no monuments. On the South side adjoining the
WaU, and without it, there was a tombstone raised on Masonry
to the memory of a PoweU of the house of Pentre Meyrig ; I
believe of the Judge Sir J"" PoweU, who was Uving in 1694.
In the Churchyard are the largest and most branching Yew trees
I ever remember to have seen. One of the largest is known by
the name of Pentre Meyrig. The famUy of PoweU removed to
Broadway, near Laugharne.
Met the Parson in a place where I ought not to have met him,
in the Alehouse, near the Churchyard. He walked -with me and
shewed me his House, which is the SchooUiouse, endowed with
£73 a year by a Miss Letitia ComwalUs of Abermarlais, who
Uke-wise endowed a House within the same precinct, consisting
of 4 acres of Land, for the support of 4 Gentlemen natives of
Carmarthenshire, above 30 years of age, unmarried, who have
each of them a suite of rooms, and a Kitchen between two, and
an aUowance of 40 guineas per ann. each. An Estate was left to
be sold for raismg a Fund equal to this EstabUshment. The
School is for the Education of aU children within that Parish,

70 TOURS IN wales
boys and girls. The master must be a married man, and his
Wife teaches the Female Class.
Hence towards Llangattock. CaUed there on Mr. Llewelyn,
the Curate of the place, who walked with me to see the remains
of what was called Llangattock Castle, which is no more than an
immense Mound, like a great Tumulus, with a Ditch round it,
formed by taking out the Earth that went to the Mound. Quere,
if it was capable of having water introduced. It has a large
space adjoining it marked by a single Agger. No Wall appears
anywhere ; so that I suppose the Mound was surmounted by a
strong wooden work. The common people caU it CasteU priddlyd,
that is, the earth Castle, to distinguish it from those built of
Stone and Mortar. There is a house of some Antiquity having
stone carved window frames, called the Court House, which once
I suppose belonged to some great man of the place ; whose
posterity afterwards probably went to Danyrallt, the House
belonging to that Estate.
N.B. — The Schoolmaster told me that he remembers a piece
of the Roman Road visible in the Meadows, close to the new
Road under Admiral Foley's, and could shew it.

June 26th. — Rode out to see the course of the Sarn Helen,
the old Roman road, which Mr. Foley's tenant shewed me in some
fields of his, which appears to be made of the River gravel, and
is visible over all the lower part of the Admiral's Demesne, to
the left of the present Turnpike road, the plough indicating, by
the sound it makes, its passage through the pebbly stratum. It
is discovered in several places between that and Llandovery.
Could hear nothing of the Stone mentioned by Llwyd ; yet I
heard Admiral Foley say that he heard a Mr. Hopkins say that
he remembers a stone somewhere near the Marlais, with a hole
in it, through which people could shake hands.
Ascend the Van of Llansadwrn, a very high ridge commanding
a most extensive view. The summit facing the Vale is crowned
with an old Caer or encampment, with the inner Agger much
worn do-wn, and more so than I ever remember to have seen;
but very high towards the North, the only easily accessible side,
where was the entrance ; and another lower circumvallation,
more at the foot of the Hill. At the Eastern extremity of the
camp there is a small elevation which I think must be a Tumulus.
N.B. — Mr. Williams told me that the great Stone we dug
about is called Maen Cilan.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 71
June 27th. — Ascended the Van of Llansadwrn, and opened the
mound on the Peak within the Camp, imagining it might be a
tumulus ; but though I gave it a very fair trial, I found it to
have been a real beacon, being almost all a heap of Charcoal
and Ashes, indicative of much fire having being kindled
there. Descended after this ill success, and not wishing to return
without having added anything to the stock of my information,
rode to Talley Abbey. The Church had been a cruciform building,
with a tower in the centre, and of no inconsiderable size ; but
the whole buUding seems to have been uncommonly plain, as
clearly appears by the 4 Arches on which the Tower stands,
having not the smallest ornament about them. The Arches are
painted ; and the few apertures where Windows were shew the
same plainness. The Nave had side Aisles low. The Abbot's
House joins the South transept, and is now a Barn to the great
house near. The Parish Church rather modern built, at a little
distance from the Ruins. The Churchyard very large ; fine
trees in it. The Edwinsford Vault close to the Ruins. The
whole will group into a pretty drawing, having the lake and trees
to form a fine ground, and beautiful shaped and high Hills at the
back. There are two lakes, upper and lower, separated by a
narrow Isthmus, the middle part of which is elevated and planted.
The upper is the largest. The smallest may be about 3 Quarters
of a mile round. They are well stocked with Pike, Perch, and
Eels.

Wednesday. — Llangattock Church. Plain. South and North
Transept. 2 or 3 handsome marble Tablets to the memory of
the Danyrallt and Glansevin family. A neat marble Tablet in
the Chancel to Admiral Lloyd, with this inscription, like most
Epitaphs not true —
Here lie the remains of W™ Lloyd Esq'-, Admiral of the White, a Gent :
of strict integrity and unsullied honour, an officer of tried courage and
approved conduct, a steady friend, a kind master, a sincere and pious
Christian. Ob : 19 Jul : A.D. 1796, Mt. 71.
This tablet occupies a part of the Wall wherein was once niched
the figure of a Tho** Lloyd, his Ancestor, of the same house, and
folding doors shut on it ; but it fell down, was broken, and never
restored. A Tablet of black Marble only remains to give us some
account of it, but the quaint inscription is not perfect. On the

72 TOURS IN WALES
Monumental Effigies of Tho' Lloyd Esq', of Danyrallt, who died
Aug*^ 19, 1672— ¦ Reader behold the handsome face
Of him whose looks impart a grace
His soul was filled with Heaven, his mind
With worth we did find
EnameUeTranscribe his life his Children may.
Tuesday, June 20*'' [1809].— Set off after Breakfast with my
Host, the Admiral. Went through the old Park of Abermarlais,
which appeared to have been well wooded by the old Stools, and
to have been planted in Rows near the House, which had a bowling
Green before it, and a piece of Water. In the Park some long
ridges of earth sodded over like a kind of long Barrow, said to
have been raised as a shelter for the Deer ; but Quere. The
Admiral's young plantations amazingly thriving.
CaUed at Mr. Williams's, the Vicar of Llansadwrn, whose
glebe house is most charmingly situated. Is a neat cottage, and
within discovers the taste of its occupier, Mr. Williams, the
Vicar. The Church is a plain building, without a Tower. Has a
South Aisle. In it are no monuments, though the Parish Church
of the venerable mansion of Abermarlais. The Cemetery is large,
and has some old Yew and other trees in it. At the Vicar's I
saw a most beautiful little Bangu Bell, ornamented -with curious
raised work ; a handle of the same metal ; and round it in Dutch
— Lof : Got boven al.*' Mr. WilUams likewise shewed me several
painted tiles which had been found worked up in the wall over
an arched door that was taken do-wn ; formerly perhaps the
Church had been paved with them, or they had been brought
from the Abbey of Talley. I saw there some pieces of true
Roman brick, found at Llys Brychan.
Rode on to the Mountain Common of Llansad-wrn that is going
to be divided and inclosed. Observed small heaps of Stones
round, probably Carneddau, and one larger than the rest, which
I propose opening. From this height had a fine View of the
Country all round the Breconshire Van, as well as that of
Carmarthenshire, Carreg Cynan Castle, then gilded by the Sun,
and all round it in shadow. Beyond this Common and adjoining
it is a projecting point of land, private property belonging to
* In modern spelling " Loof God boven al," i.e.. Praise God above all.
It was a lich- or corpse-bell, a hand-bell rung before a funeral procession.
—Ed.

CARMARTHENSHIRE 73
Ed-winsford, near the extremity of which, -within some sort of
ancient Encampment, the late Sir Nicholas Williams built a
Summer house, now a heap of rubbish, it having been destroyed
by Ughtning. Observed on this ridge a great deal of the blue
and purple Mountain Pansy.
N.B. — -Mr. Williams told me that when he waited on Mr. Bray
at the Antiquarian Society, he found the Bell they used was
precisely on the same Model as his Bangu, which was found in
Llanwrda Church, consolidated with Llansad-wrn. There were
old people lately living who remembered it used at Funerals.
Mr. Williams informed me that at the Vicarage house at
Llandovery there were found sculptured on Stone Goats' Heads
in the Act of vomiting. Quere if this might not have referred to
an anecdote told of Rees Prichard, Vicar of Llandyfry.
Llangattock.
C-wrt y Plas, an old house just by the Church, seems to have
been a house of some consequence for its day, having wrought
stone frames to the Windows and Door. The Clerk told me that
it had been the Town Jail.
Ride towards the Van, and by Myddfai, Llwyn y Wermwd,
Cilgwyn, and Glansevin house. The ascent gradual till we came
to the height above the Vale in which Llanddoysant lies. Saw
Talysarn lying exactly on the old Roman road, which the present
Turnpike pursues, as having the best course possible.
Turn to the left and do-wn a considerable Hill. Bad road to
Myddfai. On this side of Myddfai Ues the House of the family
who were the hereditary Physicians of that place, the descendants
of whom are buried at the West end of the Church, and retain
their partiality to Medicine, there being several of them buried
of the name of Jones, and said to be Surgeons. The Church is
double, being separated by a row of neat pillars and moderately
pointed Arches. A fine marble Tablet lately set up to Williams
of Ll-wyn y wermwd. On a Tombstone without the Communion
rails was an inscription to commemorate one Owen, of the family
of GlasaUt, Bishop of Llandaff in Charles's time.
An old house in the VUlage caUed Porth y rhyd. Llwyn y
wermwd, a charming situation, ground very parkish, ornamented
with fine masses of old wood. To the back a noble view of the
Mountains, which from hence look Uke the view of Cader Idris
softened and in miniature from Dolgelly. Follow a narrow
-winding Vale, each side well wooded, with a rippling stream

74 TOURS IN WALES
passing through, dammed up into a large Pond under Llwyn y
wermwd house, down to Cilg-wyn, late Miss Price's, and now M'
Holford's. The Ground very parkish and well wooded. Hence
to Glansevin. No fine situation. A house of some pretensions
as to external, but all round it appearance of squaUd neglect.
I heard from an old woman, in ascending towards the Mountain,
a piece of a curious fable respecting the origin of the Myddfai
Physicians — that the first of that family, who took to the pro
fession, was fishing in the lake of the Van, and heard a Voice
under Water desiring him to bait his hook with bread ; and so
doing he hooked a female, who came out of the lake followed by
6 cows, all with names, and was married to the Angler Physician.
But she said, after having made him the father of children, that
she should quit the world, or at least his society, after receiving
3 unnecessary blows. When at a funeral, she being alone merry,
her husband tapped her on the shoulder, saying. What means your
mirth in the midst of Sorrow ? Says she. That is one of the
blows. Again being at a wedding, and she alone being sad, her
husband tapped her again a second blow. The woman did not
know the cause of the third. So she plunged into the Lake, and
her Cows, and was never seen more.
The Clerk told me something in addition to this Tale
of the Lady of the Lake and the Physician, namely, that she
came out of the Lake with 14 cows ; and said that when she was
destined to return, which would be after she had received three
unnecessary blows, she should have as many cows back with her as
she could name at a Breath ; and that her Breath lasting longer
than for her to call the 14 Cows by their Names, she was obliged
in addition to have the Oxen in the Plough (a bit of a Bull though).
Plough and all, with which she returned to the Lake ; and the
tradition is that there still appears the furrow the Plough made
to be traced to the Lake, and very visibly on the edge of it.
N.B. — The Angling Physician first baited his hook with fine
bread well baked, but the Voice told him that he must bait it
with bread half baked, which had the desired effect.
The Vale op the Sawddey.
June 2P* — Pass Llangattock. We hear of its Castle in the
Welsh Chronicles, but nothing now remains to indicate its place
but a tumulus, of considerable size, probably once surmounted
with a Tower or Castelet of wood, or other slender materials, as
an outpost. The Church has a Tower, and in the Chancel there

CARMARTHENSHIRE 75
was an arched Canopy, now shut up with WaU. Here most likely
lay the Effigy of Sir Aaron ap Bledri, Knight of the Sepulchre,
of the house of Kilsant, an Ancestor of Lord MUford, for the
pedigrees all say, sepultus est apud Langattock.
Enter the Vale of Sawddey, through which a noble mountain
stream holds its course here at the entrance, assuming a very
majestick Character, but in its whole course exhibiting a very
picturesque appearance, in many places rolling a narrow deep
stream through a fretted channel of rock ; in others precipitated
in little cataracts over broken rocks. The both sides of the
Vale, which takes many windings, are nobly wooded, and belong
fortunately to those who are tied down not to employ Axe. A
new Road foUows the course of the River all the way, chiefly
leading to the Lime Kilns on the Mountain which gives rise to
the River.
Near the head of the River stands the House of Gwynfai,
belonging to a clergyman of the name of Lewis, who has around
him an Estate of about 7 or 800 £ per Ann., besides a good
beneflce in Devonshire. The House is neat, and finely embosomed
in magnificent woods, the River running at the foot of the HiU in
the side of which it is built. There is capability of its being made
a fine place. In our Pedigrees the Lords of Gwynfai occur
frequently, and here no doubt they resided ; but the present
possessors, I believe, lay no claim to a relationship with the
ancient Lords of the place ; for I find that the Great Grandfather
of the present Gentleman was a Smith, whose forge was where the
Kennel now is. Just at the Junction of the Sawddey Vach
with the greater, at a place called Aber ddwy avon, about 40
yards up the little Sawddey, there is a pretty waterfall, -with a
fine accompaniment of wood. The whole River makes the fall.
N.B.^On returning I found that on the other side of the
Sawddey from Llangattock, opposite the common we cross,
there is a place called Garreg Sawddey. Why may not this be
the Gaer ar y Sawddey ? And there may be a Roman Station
there. To Cayo.
June 22"'' — In my way opened several apparently truncated
Carneddau, but found nothing indicative of their having been
sepulchral. They had been robbed of their Stones ages before,
and perhaps then plundered of their contents, or so disturbed
as to leave no mark of their original use. Some very small
ones, as they lay in a row very near each other ; and round them

76 TOURS IN WALES
there were ancient ridges, as were certainly the Stones collected
from the plough.
Proceed to the Caves of Caio, falUng into the Turnpike that
leads from Lampeter to Llandovery. To the left, the Vale
expands and exhibits a rich view, the boundaries being very
picturesque wooded projections. On the flat appeared Edwins
ford, and in another branch of the Vale, Llansawel, and higher
up Bailey Vicar, and Glan Rhannell to the right. At Pumsant
the Vale contracts, in which are Dolau Cothy, a very pretty,
well wooded seat of — Johnes, Esq' ; and above, Brwynant,
the seat of Rev'' M' Lloyd ; the Vale still higher, wild and
romantick. At M' Johnes's saw the Gold chain found in ploughing the
North side of Cothy. Gold very pure, nicely wrought ; and also
a stone of the onyx kind bedded in a rough stone for the purpose
of putting it with safety into a vice, for the Engraver to work it.
The device was a figure attended by a dog, holding something
in his hand, at which the dog seems in the act of looking up to
catch ; but on examining it ynth a magnifying glass it appears
to have been only in outline. This was found in the rubbish
by making a new road just at the top of the Hill above the Caves.
The Caves and hollows where the Romans had carried on their
works seemed to have occupied the side of the Hill opposite
Pumsant for a mile. There are besides excavations everywhere,
several Caverns in the soUd rock, and adits ; some open mouthed,
and though capacious, not penetrating far ; others with entrance
narrow, but extending inwards farther than any have penetrated.
In one there is a spring from which runs a pretty abundant stream
used by them probably for cleaning the Ore. There is a large
Stone there called Carreg Pumsant, where, from the marks on
it, and the tradition annexed, it is supposed they pounded the
Ore. I forgot to say that there were likewise found near the Chain
a Gold Serpent, about 9 inches long, and two Gold Rings in form
of a Serpent. There is no certainty as to the quality of the
Ore found there, which even Raspe, the great Mineralogist,
could make no satisfying conjecture about. There is every
reason to suppose that it was something they dug out in mass,
and that it was very precious Ore. There might likewise have
been Copper and Lead. But attempts have been made to dis
cover Mines there in after Ages, without success. There can be
no doubt but their Establishment here was a very great one,
as the Road in many places now visible came from Loventium

CARMARTHENSHIRE 77
to Pumsant, where I presume there was a Station, as Bricks
were often found there of various sorts, truly Roman, as well
as in all the space.
First Day at Penylan.
Sink down from the heights to the Vale of Cothy, through
which the River holds its course, here and there straitened by a
rocky channel ; and in many parts widening into deep dark
reaches, overshadowed with fine Oaks growing out of its rocky
sides, and other tangled growth.
Near a Mill saw the Salmon leap, but there being so little water
in the river, it did not appear to advantage.
The Vale richly wooded all the way down. Cross the River to
a very strong British Post, having a tumulus, on which most
probably stood a Castelet, occupying a narrow projecting point
at the base of a still higher eminence, crowned with large encamp
ments at the back of it, or rather on each side. The ditch round
the Tumulus cut out of the Slaty rock. In our return, pass
an antient Mansion called Eisteddfa Egwad, where the Saint
of the Church in which parish is stands might have lived.
2nd Day.
Visited Llanfynydd Church ; consisting of a Tower, and Nave
di-vided by a row of Pillars. No monument, but one to the
Rev. D. Jones, a Nonjuror. Vast tracts of common in this
Parish. ViUage prettily situated on the little River Sannan,
sheltered by high Hills to the North and East. In it are 2 or 3
publick houses, a shop or two, a School House, founded by the
said D. Jones for the education of 12 boys, 6 of whom are put
out to trades. The Master, who now is Curate of the Parish,
has a stipend of £12 per ann : arising out of a Farm left for that
purpose in the Parish.
Cross a long Mountain Common, where the People were all
busy with their Turf Harvest. At the extremity of this Common,
saw the remains of an antient British Town, occupying a pro
jection covered -with Gorse, in one part collected into something
like an Agger, enclosing a considerable space ; in other places
making small Huts, such as are seen on many of our heights.
At Aber Gorlech, or Garw lech, from the nature of the stones,
where this Uttle tributary River to the Cothy divides the Parishes
of Llansawel and Llanybyddar, there is a chapel of ease to the
latter.

78 TOURS IN WALES

IMontgomeryshire and Merioneth.*
Thursday, August 25"' [1808]. Begmi. The Morning early
shewed so thick a Fog that out of my room Window at Vach
ddeiUog I could not see to the distance of 6 yards. Not a breath
of wind stirring. But before 7 o'clock it began to disperse, and
by eight left the horizon clear and the Landscape in full beauty,
-with a gentle breeze, giving a Curl to the Lake. Being my last
Morning at that charming retreat, of course I was much hurried,
and what with the extreme heat, and the fatigue of packing up,
I was almost dissolved before I started. Sir Richard had gone
on before, whom I overtook a little the other side of Pont y Nant
hir, where the River, after having hoUow'd its way through
rocks, falls with rather torrent force under a very picturesque
old Arch covered with Ivy, and continues its course through
the same sort of channel the other side of the Bridge. A little
below, this river falls into the Dee.
Pass for a Mile or two through prettily wooded Dells, and
leaving Pale and Llandderfel on the Left, ascend by a winding
road to the Berwyn Hills, over which we had a dreary, but a fine,
airy ride. Saw a plant of White Heath, and catch a peep of
a narrow Vale intersecting the Mountains, and goes towards
Llandrillo. Turf there must be very good, as the Turbary they
are dug out of seems in the first instance very dry. Cross a small
arch about half way over the Mountain, under which runs a
water with such a yellow crocus that the whole channel and the
stones that touch it are all deeply tinged. Saw something like
a large Tumulus, near the head of the Vale of Llandrillo, called
Bwlch croes lorwerth, where some say lorwerth Drwyndwn was
slain ; or more likely, where his Corpse, in passing to Pennant
Melangell, where he is said to be buried, might have stopped,
and a cross might have been raised to commemorate it. Edward
raised splendid Crosses everywhere where the Body of his beloved
Eleanor rested in its way from the North.
Open the pretty little Vale of Llangunnok, and see the old
Roman road ascending from the Vale much below the present
road, and falls in with the Milltir gerrig and Trimsarn ; and so
in a straitish Line to Bala. Sir Richard Hoare has rode it all
* MS. 2.56.

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 79
the way. The Boundaries of the Vale of Llangunnok are lofty,
but bare of wood ; and the HiU to her Left almost covered with
a Lava of loose stones mostly of the slaty kind. The other is
grassy to the Top. The Vale, which is divided into small in
closures, is richly sprinkled with Trees in the Hedge Rows.
The River Tanat rises on the Mountain just above the Vale.
About Llangunnok to the left above the Village, they have a
slate quarry of a fine sort, beautiful deep blue, thin and of even
surface. On the other side of the River, there is a great Lead
Mine, and a rail Road, crossing the Turnpike from the Adit into
the Mine, to the bank, where it is picked, scoured and rendered
marketable. The Church, seemingly new built, is small ; has
no steeple or side Aisles. In this village, as in all places where
a Church appears a meeting house is sure to confront it.
A few Miles farther reach Llanrhaiadr, after passing, from the
main road, a most intolerable stony way. We cross the Tanad at
Llangunnok over a stone bridge, and afterwards over a wooden
one, descend to Llanrhaiadr, a small, poor, but sequestered
Village (I ask its pardon, Market Town I should have said).
Put up at the best Inn in the place, and bad is the best — the
Coach and Horses. Before we enter the ViUage we cross by a
bridge the Rhaiadr, which has its course from the left, from
the famous Cataract of Pistill Rhaiadr.
After Dinner we walked out, saw the Church that lies in a
very spacious Churchyard, with two or three old scrubby yew
trees, but a few Fine Wallnut Trees skirting the River that
runs under the Churchyard to the South under a Hill well
wooded, -with a Mill at its foot, and a shady walk beyond it above
the river, and on the Margin of a small stream fiowing at the edge
of the walk, which helps to feed the Mill. The Church consists
of a Nave, two side aisles, and a Tower not very high. The
Nave separated from the side Aisles by low square piUars, angles
smoothed. Cieling of Wood over Chancel in square Pannels ;
a flowery Knot carved at each Angle.
The only Monument anything remarkable was thus inscribed,
of freestone —
21-lObris 1694 Hic sepultus est Sidneius Bynner Gen^ qui dum vixit
hospitalitate insignis vicinis gratus Amicis fidelis, pauperibus liberalis
omnibus afEabilis & nemini in Justus. Dicere verum quis vetat ?
The Vicarage House adjoins the Cemitery, and seems to be a
good large old House with proper Offices and a noble Garden.

80 TOURS IN WALES
Without the Garden, the late Doctor Worthington, Vicar of
this Church, erected a Maenhir and inscribed it thus : —
VIATORVM I SOLATIO | & | COMODITATI | A SALOP | XXVI ( A |
LOND I XCVIII.*
Houses here appear very old, built of wood and plaister chiefly,
a style peculiar to Montgomeryshire in every part of it.
Friday, August 26 [1808]. — Set out, with a pleasing gloom and
Air, in quest of Mediolanum, which we were induced, from our
Cicerone's Account of a place called Bryn Dinas, to suppose
might be found there. All the intermediate Ground from
Llanrhaiadr to that place, both right and left of the Road, had
been explored 2 Years ago by my Friend Sir R. Hoare without
success, though places had names that seemed to point to the
former existence of the Roman Station there, not only being
a tradition that there once had been a great City there, but
that the Names of Hendref and Hengastell remain. A Uttle
before we come to the 3'' Mile Stone from Llanrhaiadr we turned
to the left, with a View to ascend a high insulated conical Hill
whose Summit was crowned with an old British Encampment;
and this was the Bryn Dinas we were led to for Mediolanum.
The first sight determined us as to what it was, and that it
could have no relation to the Romans, who always chose a gentle
eminence in a Vale. However, deeming it worth being examined,
we abandoned our Horses, and began our Ascent up a per
pendicular grassy and glassy steep, where there was not the
smallest appearance of a path, our guide not being sufficiently
acquainted with it. However, after much slipping and winduig,
we gained the top, and found a most extensive work of the
Britons and of their earliest style, having but one high Agger
following the crown of the HiU, in circumference half a Mile at
least. It had one approach to the S. East — being a natural
hollow in the Hill, assisted by Art to make it more accessible
by making the Road to wind, and cutting through a rubly rock.
* Fenton's readings of the two inscriptions are not quite correct, nor
are they altogether correct in Hancock's History of the Parish, in Mont.
Coll, iv, p. 236; v, p. 312 (1871-2). The Rev. J. Silas Evans, Vicar
of the Parish, has kindly collated the readings for us, with the following
results. Sidneiiis should be Sidneus ; and JUt. 70 added at the end.
The inscriptions on the Green School Maenhir read, on the front^
" -VIATORUM I SOLATlO | ET | COMMODITATE | A SALOP | XXVI | A |
LOND. I CLxxx " ; and on the back — " H. p. -VEC 1 p : I mdcclxx." — Ed.

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 81
The opening is just opposite to Llangedwyn and just above
Plas Issaf [Ucha], where a Mr. Dorset Uves.
Llangedwyn is a fine old seat of Sir W. Wynne, situated under
a hanging wood, and just above some of the finest Meadows I
ever saw, stretching down to the River Tanat. The Vale here
widens into a fine Reach, and is remarkably cheerful. Here,
in Summer chiefly, the Dowager Lady Wynne resides.
From the old British Camp on Bryn Dinas the View towards
Shrewsbury is very fine, the whole Vale up and down seen shut
in with fine Hills with a varied outline.
In our way back, ascend a gentle rising in the Vale to Pen
Dommen, which we found as exactly opposite to the other
Tommen, just above the old House of Plas [Glan] Tanat, that
might have been there placed to guard a like Pass winding down
through the Vale from the Mountain. Thinking it a likely place
for the Mediolanum, we made all the enquiries and examination
we could ; but could get no account of any thing having been dug
up there, or any thing indicative of there having been anything
Roman. Leaving Sir R. Hoare, I turn down towards the Bridge to which
the supposed Roman Road comes from Caer Sws, and saw a very
fine Maen Hir in a Field. I alight and examine and measure
it. It is about eleven feet high ; and in the other Field a little
more to the Eastward, I was directed by the Farmer to look at a
spot where they had dug up a great quantity of stones, being no
other than a fine Tumulus, now levelled to within a Foot of the
surrounding Ground. This Tumulus, being not above a Hundred
Yards distance from the other Tumulus, might have had some
relation to it. The farmer told me that in dry Summers the
course of the antient Road is very perceptible by the more
stunted and yellow herbage or Corn over different fields.
Pistill Rhaiadr.
In the Evening, rode up the vale through which the Rhaiadr
precipitates itself. The Vale is all the way narrow, but takes a
pretty Bend near the ViUage. It then keeps nearly the same
Breadth ; for two Miles each side is tolerably wooded, a fine
young plantation of Fir chiefly, but much too thick, at the
very extremity, which is formed of bold rocks, of perpendicular
columnar Strata, particularly to the right of the fall, which is
precipitated over a ledge of Rock rather projecting in one broad
thin Stream till it comes to a Ledge ; then through an arch it has

82 tours in WALES
worn in the Rock it is forced a little more to the left into a more
confined channel, forming a second fall. There is a Cottage near
and a small House just overhanging the stream, for a Company
to shelter or take some refreshment, when they make parties,
and take provision with them.
The whole Scene round the fall is very wild, and the HiUs on
each side terminate in a very grand rocky parapet, with here and
there some little stunted growth. Perhaps if there was a greater
accompaniment of wood (for the Rocks are nearly bare), the
fall would not appear to so much advantage, for then it would
be Uke other falls ; and Pistill Rhaiadr has a peculiar character
of its own. Within Quarter of a Mile of the fall you meet a
locked Gate, so that the Traveller must there abandon his horse,
and walk ; and unless you go to the edge of the Pool, into which
the Cataract precipitates, you cannot see it as it ought to be
looked at, to judge of its height and the singularity of the whole
Landskip. On the Flat in front of the Cascade there are two
singular detached Rocks, fragments originally from the Mountain
above, though now bedded where they are, as if they had grown
there. On our return, much struck with the ViUage of Rhaiadr,
as we just approached it, with every ingredient of a rich Landskip
happily grouped.
Saturday. — In consequence of an account we received from
a Taylor, delivered seemingly with a perfect knowledge of his
subject, viz., that a Farmer by the name of John Jones of
Llam yr Ywrch had dug up some Bricks, and that they were
worked into -one of his Walls — enflamed by this, that no time
might be lost, I started at i past six in the Morning to visit
the Farmer ; but when I got there I found that the ninth part
of a Man had only told me the 9"' part of the truth. The
Bricks were taken out of an old Oven, and not dug up in a certain
field, as the Taylor had represented it. The truth was, that in
a certain field called Maes y Llan or Gaer Degan they had dug
into the ruins or the foundations of some antient Chapel and
found several fragments of cut stone, but no brick ; that the
Fields round were caUed Maesydd yr Abad, the Abbot's fields ;
that tiU within these few years, they had been tithe free ; and
that people from near Shrewsbury were used to send their
Cattle thither under an Idea that the place was a sort of Sanctuary.
In them, and whUe they remained there, they were safe from
being distrained. I saw the spot, and it looked like a spot
where there might have existed an old Chapel, perhaps part

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 83
of the Endowment of Ystrad Marchell. I searched the Fields
every where in that direction, but could find nothing indicative
of a Roman Station. M' Walter Davies had been there busy
in exploring, but made no discovery farther than we did.
Machynlleth.*
May be weU called the Port of Montgomeryshire, the Dovey
being navigable to within a MUe and a half of the Town", and
with little expense, by a Cut once projected and talked of,
capable of being made navigable quite up to the Towti. By
approaching it from the Road that comes over the HUls from
the Devil's Bridge, and so through the beautiful Valley of
Glascoed, to a Height just above the Town, from which the
Road sinks into that coming from Aberystwyth, within half
a mile of the town, you catch a beautiful View of it, placed
between the Hills in the narrowest part of the Vale, expanding
out, approaches the River, into a fiat of very rich meadows
and inclosures.
The to-wn is nearly in form of a printed capital T, having
a street that runs from South to North, having the largest
street branching off from it from West to East nearly. The
Street you first enter into, beginning, or rather terminated at
the So. End, by a very genteel House, the residence of Edwards
Esq., seems to be better buUt and more uniform and better
paved (that is, having a foot pavement) than any other part,
for the sides are flagged. In the Centre of Street, and facing
to the East Street, there is a handsome Market house, buUt
at the Expense of Sir Wat. W. Wynne Bar*, and behind it, or
rather hid by it, is the principal Inn, the Eagles (the bearing
of the Family), the Inn likewise being the property of Sir
Watkin. In the Street to the East you are shewn an old Barn famed
for having been the place where Owen Glyndwr convened his
ParUam*, that is, the principal of his adherents, as beuig then
the largest room in the place probably, for there is reason to
think that then the town was but smaU, and the few houses
that were but low and mean. The Houses, both the old and
modern, built of the slaty stone dug in a HUl, a Common to the
North of the town, a stone when cut (and it is cut easUy) that
gives the buildings an air of great consequence. Roofs aU
*MS. 2.51.
g2

84 TOURS IN WALES
slated ; the old buildings, and there are many interspersed,
covered with the large coarse slate of the Country, and mossed
to prevent the power of the wind on them ; but the majority
of the buildings are covered with the fine Carnarvon slate,
without any Mortar. Their Markets on Wednesday and
Saturday. A MaU goes through the Town. The town is
placed near three quarters of a MUe from the Dovey.
Church.
Is enclosed within a strong WaU of Stone and Mortar ; the
Cemetery large, with a few of the oldest Yew trees I ever saw
in it. The Church is a cruciform buUding. Roof, both of
Church and cross Aisles, very wide, with an immense quantity
of Oak beams forming it within part of the sides of the Roof
made of timbers shaped into QuatrefoUs bearing marks of great
Antiquity. Chancel separated from Nave by an ornamented
open Skreen, as were the Side Aisles from the Nave. No
antient Monument. A mural Tablet to the Owens famUy of
Llyn Uoedd, a seat close to the town. The whole bears strong
evidence of its being very antient. To enquire about Maglona.
All the Windows handsome, with stone tracery in Chancel and
each Aisle.
I found my old Friend M' H. Jones had been buried the
morning (yesterday) I arrived. Aberllefenny in the possession
of M'' John Davies the Merchant, and many other changes.
Llynloedd, a pretty seat of a family of the name of Owen, very
near the town, prettily backed with wooded Hills, and surrounded
with some highly cultivated meadows and Fields. The House
rather handsome.
I forgot to mention that there is a Window of same dimensions
and tracery with those in the East End and cross Aisles in the
West End. Tower ending in a tiled short spire. In the Chancel,
just within the Skreen separating from the Nave, old Oak StaUs,
with grotesque carving under the seats each side of the Entrance,
as if for Singers or Chantry Priests. Most of the StaUs belonged
to the Mathafarn Estate, as they are inscribed on the back
Sir W. W. Wynne. Over Porch leading into Churchyard fine
carved woodwork, certainly plundered from within y'' Church.
Rode out in the Evening to Penrallt to visit the Station of
Cefn y Gaer ; but found the old Inhabitants dead, and the
farm occupied by a new tenant, who had never heard of the
place having been a Roman Camp. Though it may perhaps

MONTGOMERYSHIRE 85
now be difficult to trace the whole line of the Agger, yet in some
few places it is plainly discerned, and fragments are seen in
every pUe of Rubbish on the Roads, and in the WaUs of the old
Farmhouse among the Stones. But the principal part of it
being now (as it was when I visited it 3 years ago) under Corn,
it was not likely we should find any pottery, which, if the Fields
were fresh turned up, would appear. A Son in Law of the old
Tenant told me that, about 15 years ago, his Father in Law
had found a string of Silver Beads, and that it was sent to his
Landlord, a M'' Pughe of GarthmeUan.
There is on the banks of the Dovey, near the place where
they ford it over, some small earthen Mound. Could see no
antient pitched way, unless the modern road to the River
pursues the same Line ; nor, if the Road did cross, could we guess
which direction it could have taken, to have fallen in with
that Road in Cardiganshire leading to Loventium. And it is
hardly to be imagined that they could have connected otherwise
than circuitously with the more Northern Stations. It might
have followed the course of the Dovey to Mallwyd, and then
easUy to CaerSws.
Opposite the Station, on the West side of a Marshy flat, stands
a handsome modern Mansion called Talgarth, belonging to
 Edwards, Esq"^, on a gentle and highly cultivated slope,
ornamented with thriving plantations, looking on one side to
the Dovey and its sublime boundary on the Cardiganshire side,
and on the other hand looking on the Uttle VUlage of Pennal,
backed by sublime Mountains, with their sides in many places
weU wooded.
From Machynlleth Bridge over the Dovey (a noble building
with 5 large Arches, the first on the Dovey) the Ride to Towyn
is very beautiful and interesting, and takes its course through
a most picturesque country involving great variety. The HiUs,
each side as far as Pennal, richly wooded, very high, and broken
with most beautiful forms.

Saturday, 1808.— Left Machynlleth early and took the Turn-
pUie road on the North side of the Dovey, which carried over
a Terrace, for the greater part overhanging the River, and
never losing sight of it. To the left rising very high and steep
fine grassy Hills. Pity they were not wooded. The river
here is broad, but shaUow, taking large reaches. On the opposite
side Dolgeog.

86 TOURS IN WALES
The Vale here occupies a rich expanse of meadow pasture
and corn land. Pass an old Mansion, Aberfrydlon, belonging
to the family of Wynne, but long deserted. CaU at Llan-wryn,
of which Mr. Pryce, of Carmarthenshire, is Rector, and Mr.
Hamer, an old Acquaintance, is Curate, but he was not at home.
The Church an odd-looking pile, -with great square Windows,
small Panes, having more the appearance of an old pubUck
House than a Church. Thence to Mathafarn, once the seat
of the Pughs, and before them of a noted Bard, sold by the
Trustees of the late Mr. Pugh Pryce during his minority to
Sir Watkin WUUams Wynne, to such disadvantage that it is
said there was as much timber cut do-wn after the purchase as
paid for it. The House is situated at the foot of a beautiful
projecting HiU in the middle of the Vale, whose lower sides or
skirts were well cultivated, and upper part cloathed -with wood.
In front, it looks on an expanded flat consisting of large
Enclosures, rich Land of every quaUty, with old Oaks, Wych
Elms, Beech, and Lime Trees, and one stately sweet Chestnut,
interspersed, the Relicks of antient grandeur — the whole forming
a most magnificent Demesne.
Soon after we leave Mathafarn the Turnpike leaves us, and the
remaining part of the Road to Mallwyd is narrow and unfre
quented, yet still folio-wing the Course of the River, and pre
serving a most interesting Character, for, look on either side,
you are environed by Mountains of most majestick appearance,
and, as we approach Mallwyd, taking a greater variety of forms.
On the opposite, saw Kemes, a small ViUage, -with a very old
fashioned Mansion in a bush of Wood ; and a little higher same
side, a pretty Box on a Knoll most charmingly wooded on the
edge of the Vale, belonging to Sir J" King Dashwood. Road gets
close to the margin of the Dovey, which here grows narrower
and less tame. The River here, and of course the Road, takes
a turn to the left. Ascend a small slope, then descend to a
grotesque Bridge, the first we meet with from MachynUeth,
a rare instance in so long a reach. Here the Dovey takes entirely
a new Character, forcing its way with straiten'd course through
a wild deep rocky channel. The Bridge, a singular Arch, very
EUptick on one side, and semicircular on the other, very shaUow
from the Battlements to Arch, finely overgrown with Ivy and
tangled growth. A Uttle above is a Wier. From a seat between
Bridge and Wier, see through the Arch fine scenery. Reached
our Inn in time for an early Dinner.

MERIONETH 87

Church.

After Dinner, walk out and see the Church — a very undignified
building, with a Uttle wooden steeple at West End. On the
North side of the steeple are the words, Venite Cantemus, A.D.
1640, made out by perforations through the Boards. On the
South side, SoU Deo Sacrum, Anno Christi MDCXL. On the
East side, Honor Deo in excelsis. Over the outer Door of
Porch, G 1641 H. Nothing can be more simple and antiquated
than the inside, and even slovenly as being strewed with Rushes ;
the few Pews of old massy Oak, as well as Forms or seats, very
heavy and rude. The Pews and Seats for the Women, who
sit apart from the Men, are more Westerly end of the Church.
There is on North side of Chancel an antient Oak Pew inscribed
Sedile Gardianorum. The Communion Table, said by Pennant
to be in the middle of the Church, is where it originally stood,
and where it ought to be, at the extreme East end of the Church,
for what appears now the East end was a subsequent building
added, for what purpose I can't say ; therefore Doctor Davies
did not deem it proper to remove the sacred board from its
proper and hallowed site. The Doctor is said to be buried
under the Table, or near it. In the additional part of the East
End, which has a handsome Window -with Stone MuUions, a
School is kept. Roof very strongly and clumsily timbered. In
the Churchyard are 4 Yew trees, 2 very large, the largest of which
from a short stalk, has 6 main Branches, each large enough
for an independent tree, measures round about 25 Feet. The
middle or leading shoot rises very strait out of the middle of
the others, and is a fine flourishing tree of itself. The other
Tree measures round above 15 Feet ; and the spread of their
Branches is immense. The Rectory is worth from £4 to 500
p' ann. Observe all over this Country the beautiful Plant, the
Malva moschata.
Inn at Mall-wyd charmingly situated at the head of the Vale,
and affording very decent accommodation. The Man keeps
a large farm, and has a large family, all daughters, and all
remarkably tall. They seem to have been very decently educated.
The House belongs to Major Williams, and has the family bearing
for its sign, the Cross Foxes, which with the Spread Eagles, give
signs in aU places where the two famiUes of Wynne or WiUiams
have property.

00 TOURS IN WALES
Sunday, 1808. — Left Mallwyd, and took the Road over
Bwlchygroes to Bala. Passed a very romantick Bridge of
one Arch, under which the River rushes that enters the Dovey
a little below. I say rushes, for it appears to be a most turbulent
stream, taking its torrent course through a deep broken and
rocky channel.
Come to Dinas y Mowddy, a Town dignified by a Market
and a Corporation, having a Mayor annually chosen, at the
swearing in of whom and the feast on the occasion I was once
present, and saw him invested with the authority and insignia
of his Office, among which the principal was the Veg fa-wr,
the great fetter. After the ceremony was over at the Inn,
M' Mytton's Agent and Steward of the Court retired to the old
Manor House, where we had a supper substantial enough for
old Wilcock Mowddy had he lived. This town is honoured
with the name of City , in all law proceedings. Quere why ?
as it is a miserable collection of mean houses, making one -wide
Street. There are two publick Houses, and a shed with Crooks
for Butchers to expose their Meat in. The situation is striking,
at the foot of a prodigious high conical hill rising insulated in
the midst of the Vale. The town is placed on a ridge above
the Dovey.
Turn down out of the town to the right, still following the
river, another road to the left going to Dolgelley. There is
no church in the Town, the Parish Church being Llanymowddy,
about 2 Miles and half off, in a pretty sequester'd Vale, narrow
and bounded with very high hUls, which, though most of them
now of a velvety verdure, to the summit, by the appearance
here and there of stunted and decaying growth, appear to have
been all clothed with wood. The Church seems to have been
lately rebuUt, and has nothing about it that savours of Antiquity,
but an old Yew Tree in the Churchyard. A Uttle beyond the
Church, road turns to the right, and the Vale there ending grows
more expanded.
Here the Dovey is fed by a stream that forces its way down
a channel fretted by the lapse of Waters from above, seemingly
from a Lake that overflows this boundary of Rock. Perhaps
this is what the Man of the Inn at Mallwyd caUed Craig Llyn
Dovey, where it is said there is an oozing or spout of Water
issuing from the Rock of a most purgative Quality. Pity it
should not be analyzed. The Dovey rises somewhere about
the foot of Aran, and here the Aran region commences. Our
road, leaving this fall of the Dovey to the left, turns to the

MERIONETH 89
right, and we begin the ascent of Bwlchygroes, which continues
gradually ascending for near two miles over a very tolerable
road formed out of the side of a very high grassy hill to the left,
opposite to which rises almost perpendicularly another Hill,
whose surface is worn away by the fall of Winter Waters to the
bare rub, forming a most striking contrast to the other side. On
both sides there are frequent Gullies worn in the Hill, innumerous
by torrents, which in Winter must present a grand appearance.
Look back and catch a pleasing View of the Vale we passed,
a little cultivated Garden amongst those mountainous wilds.
The summit of Bwlchygroes gained, we go over for some short
way a dreary flat of Heath and Turbary, till we come to the
margin of the Hill looking to the North, and there Aran and
Arennig and still more distant Mountains burst with great
sublimity on the View, and the Eye is again cheered with the
Uttle Vale opening towards the Lake of Bala, through which a
River murmurs that discharges itself into the Lake. Descend
near two miles, for the chief part a very formidable road, without
a parapet on one side, and on the other a high Mountain of
shivering Slate, continually sUpping down. We enjoyed a fine
Air on the summit of y'= Mountain, but in the Vale it was
oppressively hot. In the Vale observed much Elder in full
bloom everywhere. Opposite to Llanwchllyn, turn to the
right, and gain a View of the Lake, which a Uttle above it we
skirt aU the way to VachddeiUog.
Forgot to observe that a little beyond MaUwyd, just at the
3'' Bridge on the Dovey, near a M' Hughes's, saw a heap of Stuff
very much resembling Coal, dug out of an Adit, where there had
been a trial for that Mineral. It would be a vast discovery for
this Country, as they have plenty of Limestone in several places,
but want Coal to burn it. Turf not being strong enough for that
purpose, though a shift is made to burn it imperfectly with Turf.

Bala.*
Association there— last day. Led by curiosity to hear the
preachment. Recognized my old Fellow traveller in the Mail
from Carmarthen. His manner not at aU ranting; very
famiUar language ; allusions to very obvious things, yet not low.
Manner very impressive ; mixed, of Welsh and English, or rather
* This, undated, is taken from the beguaning of MS. 2.48, oertamly
written before 1804 (MS. 2.64).— Ed.

90 TOURS IN WALES
Welsh ; and then a paraphrase of the same in EngUsh. It was
the farewell sermon. He and one Charles, another Chaplain of
Spa Fields, were the principal in this multitude of preachers.
A number of pious Cadets or Probationers between the Acts
had an opportunity of trying their talents and feeUng their
ground by prayer. With these sermons the Association was
dissolved, and I followed my Friend to his Horse, which his
Servant had in waiting for him immediately to mount. I put
myself in his way and accosted him. He recognized me with the
same cordiality that marked his parting with us at Narberth,
and his heart seemed at his fingers' ends. He rode a fine cream
colour'd horse that would not have disgraced His Majesty's Stud.
He seemed to walk without any halt, and our Naval Mail Coach
traveller would have said that he was repaired and sound in his
lower tinkers. I am told that the salient Mania to which this
Holy Man owed his accident, as the Naval Wag related, and
which spread like wild-fire over the principaUty, had its origin
here, and that those reUgious Bacchants filled the Roads for Miles
round this town with their Orgies ; but I am told that the Mania
has of late years much subsided.
Tegid fair length. On the South side of the lake, embosomed
with Wood in an elbow of the Hill, prettily recessed at the head
of a lawn graduaUy inclining to the margin of the lake, and
having in front the fine range of the Arennig Mountains, stands
the Villa of Sir Richard Hoare, who we heard was there ; so we
took the liberty of calling. We found him with a Gentleman, a
friend of his, of similar pursuits. They were just going to take
their usual evening diversion of Perch Fishing in a commodious
Boat belonging to the Bar* below the town. We were pressed
to join them, and had we not had sport, the luxury of the scene
would have amply gratified us. There was not a breeze to ripple
the azure mirror of the lake, in which the inverted landscape
was beautifuUy shewn, and its boundaries charmingly gilded by
the setting sun. After an hour's amusement in AngUng, we re
turned and took tea, and enjoyed most interesting conversation.
The Baronet's Guest I found had been bred to the Bar, and if
not a native of the Country, had once gone that Circuit, for he
knew my Uncle Robert well, who passed the greater part of two
Summers between Carnarvon and Beaumaris, and I once had
met about 10 years ago at Llandrindod Wells, reminding him
of a poem he wrote there, something in Ansty's manner. They
had in the early part of Summer been over So. Wales ; were
reposing for a Fortnight after their fatigue to explore the

MERIONETH 91
northern part of the principaUty. Whilst they remained here,
their Mornings, if fair, were occupied by antiquarian research
in the neighbourhood ; if rainy, by their pens and pencils. They
dined at the rational hour of three, and their evenings similar to
this. Being made acquainted with the principal bearings of our
Journey, they were so polite as to sketch such a route as
accommodated itself to the Umits of time and course. Evening
passed insensibly, and we did not reach our Inn till Eleven,
where we found everything hushed after the raging tempest of
Methodism. Best house always an Attorney's. Found it so here.

From Bala to Dolgellau.
Thursday, Aug* , 1808. — Day cloudy, now and then drizzUng
mist. Pleasant breeze. Set off for Dolgellau. Took the
VachddeiUog side road and crossed over into the great Turnpike
by Llanwchllyn. In my way down thither, after crossing a
mountain River that comes from under Aran, observe a vast
collection of large Stones, particularly in one place nearly opposite
a Mill there, which probably might have been from the effect of
that prodigious flood referred to by Pennant, when all the Pike
were swept away from the Lake, and not one has since been seen.
Got into the main Road at the Bridge over the River Lliw,
the coloured River, from its having been tinged with blood in
consequence of a great Battle fought on the plain, the Caergai
side of that River, exactly opposite Castell Carndochan, a,
specimen of the earUest pieces of fortification in Masonry of the
Britons, where you see their progress in fortifications, from the
rude agger of loose stones, till they began to cement them with
Mortar. The road till we arrive at Drwsynant, dreary and un
interesting, through turbary, and looking over a cold naked
VaUey, but which might be made to assume an interesting
appearance were the grand boimdaries of each side planted as
well as some of the flat, being old damp ground with Aquaticks.
Road continues very strait, as it undoubtedly must have taken
the course of the old Roman road. Within a Mile and a half of
Drwsynant pass over a Turbary, in which are many heaps, very
circular, and having much the appearance of TumuU ; but perhaps
they may only be Heaps of rotted Turf heaps, or raised on purpose
for drying their Turf Stacks on. Pity some of them are not tried.
Hereabouts we are taught to look for the Source of the Wizard

92 tours in wales
Dee. Here are two Mountain Streams, one issuing from the
back of Aran, the other from the opposite Mountains, flowing
down to meet each other and unite just at the Dolgelly side of
the above Turbary, and just at the point before the Water begins
to take a contrary direction, and to run towards Dolgelly. So
both these Streams seem to have an equal title to the name of
the Source of the Dee. Soon we may say the Eye of Dolgelly
River, called the Gwynion, opens, which, before we reach
Drwsynant, takes a lively course over a pebbly bottom. In
the Crags of j" Hill, before we approach Drwsynant, observe a
few Goats, quite in Character, for nothing characterizes N. Wales
so well as Goats and the Welsh Harp. There is a new Inn at
Drwsynant within these 16 Years, called Howel Dda, the sign
bearing his Head, in comp* to Sir R. Howel Vaughan, Bar',
the Landlord. The old House, just opposite, a poor Hovel, I
remember a publick House, with the sign of the half Moon.
Here the celebrated Evan Lloyd of Vron, Author of the Powers
of the Pen, the Friend and favourite of the first literary
Characters of his time, buried his talents in Ale, and at last in
consequence of sottishness brought on Consumption, and died
in the Prime of Life. He had a Club here which he called
Lunaticks. Here the Hills on each side assume their natural Character,
and become clad with wood. Sir Robert Vaughan seems to be
very attentive to planting and managing his plantations. He
has planted a great deal of Larch that have the most flourishing
look, and Nature seems to point it out as the proper growth for
these HiUs. Wherever they are seen their shoots are amazing
and their bark betray health. About a mile nearer Dolgelly,
come to a fine bend of the Valley, where it contracts ; is well
wooded, only allowing room for the River, here beginning to
assume a consequential appearance, and the road, which all the
way but in two or three such unavoidable Bends as this, keeps
a perfect strait line, and I make no doubt but it was the Roman
road connecting with Caergai one way, and with Pennal and some
intermediate Station the other way.
Farther on, after a long strait reach of y'' Road, come to a
Bridge, where the Road suddenly winds to the left, round a
projecting point of y" HUl, to avoid the Ascent, but saw plainly
the continuance of the old Roman lane quite strait up the Hill,
which I make no doubt of, faUs in again with the Road when it
resumes the strait Line again. Regard this point about a
Quarter of a Mile. The new Road to Nanney, made by Sir

MERIONETH 93
Robert Vaughan, takes its course through fine woods. Just
beyond stop to look from a grotesque wooden bridge at the River
making a very picturesque fall into a deep Pool, straitened
between Rocks for several yards. Sa-w a fine Wych Elm grow
out of the fissures of the Rock bounding the River. Saw a net
set across the above pool. At Pont newydd, or near it,
S' Richard Hoare thinks the Road from the Station of Tommen y
Mur or Mons Eryri fell in with and intersected the other from
Caergai, and went on more towards Pennal, and that perhaps
Caer Unwch was a station, the Road leading exactly by it. In
our approach to Dolgelly, Cader Idris seen in a grand State, but
Caput inter nubila condit.
In the Evening after Dinner walked to see the Hengwrt
Manuscripts. Saw there the Book of Llandaff. Book put into
a better room, airy and dry. Many curious things worth
examining. After night heard M' WiUiams of Landyfriog was in the Inn,
and a young Gentleman, M' Davies, a feUow Collegian of my
Son's. I waited on them, and sat tiU near twelve o'clock.
Friday. — Were on Horseback early, our Guide having gone
before, meaning to ascend Cader Idris, the day being very fine
and clear in the Vale. We ascended after many windings and
turnings, not abandoning our Horses till we got near the top.
There we found the Summit of the Mountain obscured a little
with Mist, and the Horizon was much obscured. We began to
ascend from Pont Frydan. Near it, in a field, is a Maenhir, or,
however, an upright Stone, seemingly set there to point out some
memorable Event. The Road is very stony and narrow. Takes
an infinite number of turns. Saw as I went along the Gentiana
Montana and the Stag hound Moss. The little blue Convulvulus
foUowed us almost to the top of the Mountain. Found it cold and
pleasant on the Summit. Saw Llyn Cae under the very formid
able Ravine in the Mountain. Llyn Gader, under a very abrupt
Chasm in the Mountain. The home scene seen to great advantage,
the distant shut up. Llyn seen clearly and Bardsey Island.
They get a sort of Columns or Stones that separate in various
sided blocks out of part of Cader Idris, and roll them down the
Steep of the Mountain to send to Bristol to make gate posts or
such things— merely that it may be said they come from Cader
Idris. We have much finer at Fishguard, and in more determined
Strata. The Lakes are, first, under the Point next Gwanas, called Llyn

94 tours in wales
Aran ; next Llyn Gader ; another over the opening of Peniarth
Vale ; Llyn Graig Cynog ; 2, one about 2 miles round ; a mUe
in Length ; a Uttle Island in it ; Llyn Gwernant ; Llyn Cae.
I hear of no perch in any of these. Trout in Llyn Gwernant,
blackish. Llyn Gwernant has its West End all covered over with
the Water Lily.
Shape of the Cader Idris tract, a Spur with one of its sides
longer than the other. Very narrow comparatively at the
highest point ; little space between the precipitous ravine over
Llyn Gader and that over Llyn Cae.
Best view of the grand points of Cader Idris to group into a
picture is from the North West side of Pont Frydan, getting that
into the foreground. I was told that near the banks of Llyn
Gader there is a great Carnedd, that the Stones round it are
lighter than ordinary.
N.B. — The Masonry at Dolgelly merits particular notice.
From time immemorial they have built with very large stones,
even to the top, lifting the Stones to the work from towards the
middle course with an immense machine which takes above a
day to erect, and worked by two men, every stone being of such
a weight as to require a Lever of that vast power.
Quaere if this is not a dear sort of Masonry. The Lintels of
Doors and Windows are generally of immense Stones. When
Stones of a middling size are worked in regular courses and stones
nearly of a size, they look well, as at Nanney in the new House.
I am told that the stones rolled down from the top of Cader
Idris, of various sided figures, and some of vast length, are found
detached, but lying in all directions, like a forest that has been
felled, and not in any regular strata, but across and along and
in every way.
From Dolgelley to Barmouth.
Pass Dolwcheogryd (the Meadow above the Salmon ford),
an old Seat of some of the Nanney family. Then to Hengwrt,
a sort of a heavy Cube with its front just turned the wrong way
to face a high Bank about 20 yards from its Windows, intercepting
all its prospect, whereas, if it had been turned the other way, it
would have commanded the Estuary of the Maw and the
romantick Hills on each side, and the little Church and ViUage of
Llanelltyd. Here the famous Robert Vaughan the Antiquary
lived. The Remains of his valuable MSS. Library are still
preserved, a Catalogue made of them, and they are lodged in a

MERIONETH 95
dry room, but their number much diminished since his time.
The most curious are the " Black " book of Llandaff with
Teiliaw' s portrait on a blank Vellum Leaf, a facsimile from
Selden's original MS. in the Bodleian.
Here note the Correspondence on that occasion, the Letters
penes me.
There is Ukewise here the " Llyfr du o Gaerfyrddin," supposed
to be the oldest MS. we have. There are valuable Pedigree
Books Ukewise, particularly the fat Folio, as R. Lloyd the
Catalogue writer entitles it.
This place passed, we open a fine View of the Vale, at the
entrance of which the small remains of Cymer Abbey ly, too
much covered -with Ivy, and buried among trees, so that the
pencil can't possibly give any Idea of the reUck that exists,
but at most give the Site and the surrounding View, which is very
fine, with Llanelltid Bridge, and the mountain, a fine background
closing the prospect.
To enquire of the Castle of Uchtryd. Perhaps might have been
situated on a little rising near Hengwrt, where you see one of the
flat headed Tumuli, on which there might have been a Castelet
perched. Cross Llanilltyd Bridge, and to the right leave the Church, a
plain buUding with a chymney steeple only for its solitary Bell.
3 or 4 very old Yew trees in the Churchyard. The road to
Barmouth turns to the left. Pass Ty yn y Kelin, a neat house,
where lived formerly a M'^ Griffiths, Aunt to the present M'^
Oakley of Tanybwlch. The Road most beautifuUy skirts the
Estuary of the Maw for ten Miles, forming as delightful a ride as
any in the Kingdom, the Boundaries on each side being very
picturesque and uncommonly diversified. About halfway, pass
a deserted Mill that had served some Manufactory, with a little
Mountain Torrent pouring down by it, and a charming back
ground. Furnishes a sweet subject for the pencU, as does a
Bridge farther on, with a beautiful WaterfaU above it, amongst
well wooded knoUs. Before we get to Barmouth, a point of Land,
finely broken, projects into the Estuary, so that as the Road
passes within it we lose sight of the Estuary entirely, and only
now and then catch it by peeps ; then in a fine bend of the road
gain a bold reach of it to its Mouth.
Barmouth is curiously situated, the main Street low on a Bed
of Sand, with houses rising from it one above the other, much
enlarged within these 15 years. It has a Port and a Market, two
Inns — the Corsygedol Arms and the Red Lion. It is likewise a

96 tours in wales
fa.shionable resort for bathing, but in my opinion a very disagree
able place, as, in a high wind, if you keep your Windows or Doors
open, you are choaked with Sand. You walk continually through
a bed of it very draggingly. Opposite the Corsygedol Arms there
is an immense bank of sand shutting out the Sea View totaUy.
There are several bathing Machines. It is in the Parish of
Llanaber, but about 2 miles from that Church. No wonder then
that there is a Meeting House erected there.
Leave Barmouth in the Evening, our road leading cut out the
side of Hill over the Sands. Pass the Church of Llanaber just
on the edge of the steep over the Sands, and by its name, it
implies that the mouth of the Estuary was nearer the Church
formerly. It is an odd looking buUding. The Bell hangs over
the Porch, the first I ever saw of that kind. An uninteresting
Country all the way to Corsygedol, our place of destination for
that night, there being an uniform tract of high sloping coarse
ground, intersected -with cold stone fences, and miserable patches
of Corn here and there, and no trees but a few near some old
house. This to the right of the road, and to the left a dead flat
of moory meadows, degenerating first into Turbary to the Sea
for about Quarter of a Mile ; then the Ocean, -with the Promontory
of Llyn. This flat extends all the way at the foot of the HUls
to Llyn, part of the same sort of Country as is said to have been
inundated about the year 500, under the name of Cantref y
Gwaelod. Cross the Arthro mentioned by Giraldus, and the ViUage of
Talybont, then come to Llanddwe, the Parish Church of Corsy
gedol. There is a tidy publick house close to it. Mr. Owen the
Rector lives about 3 Quarters of a MUe off. A little above the
Church the Avenue up to Corsygedol commences with a Lodge
on each side of the Gate. The Avenue is wide, bounded by a high
old Stone Hedge, no trees till you get to the third Gate, where
the steep ascent ceases. Then begins the Wood, extending on
each side of this Gate a considerable way. The Wood, from
bemg exposed to the Sea breeze, is stunted at the Skirts, but being
thickly planted, and the outer rows scarified, which shews the
force of the Sea blast, the Trees get gradually larger tiU long
before you approach the house they appear very high and of
immense growth every way. An Avenue of lime trees for Quarter
of a Mile brings you to the House, which is entered by a Gate
way under a Square buUding, or Tower with four pine Ends, as
into a College Quadrangle. The Arch was not quite round ; a
Wing on each side the Gate way. Bell under a Canopy in the

MERIONETH 97
Tower and a Clock, with Dial plate facing the House. Porch
to the House enter'd by a Door, stone casing, of the age of
Hen. 7*'', having a Label above. An Escutcheon of Arms with
a Date on it, 1593 ; each side the outer Door way in the Spandrils
the Letters G : V. In the great room on Gallery above Stairs
hung round with family portraits, but none good or old. There
is a painted glass Escutcheon of Arms with all the quarterings of
the family. Crest a Lion rampant Sable, with a Scroll inscribed
with R.V., under it 1630. On the head or landing place of the
old Oak Stairs, crowning most the Posts, a Griffin carved in wood

holding an Escutcheon thus charged —

Over Stable on a Stone —

Monday, 1800, attented by Mr. Owen Rector of Llan-
enddwin, to which Llanddwa is a Chapel of ease, we rode
above Corsygedol House into a large Field, covered over -with
marks of old enclosures in all directions, and of all shapes and
sizes, interspersed with Heaps of Stones in a circular form, like
Carneddau, among which there was one surmounted by a large
flat incumbent Stone resting on one placed edgewise, evidently
making one side of a Cistvaen, there existing another side, two
gone. These works appeared to have stretched over a vast
tract of Ground, and might have extended to the Eastward of
the first Field we traversed, wherein the greater works had been,
quite to y'' Base of a small Mountain called to this day Craig
y Dinas, the Rock of the City ; for there can be scarce doubt of
there having been here an old British To-wn, and that all the
irregular works we saw are traces of early population, and that
the circular heaps are chiefly sepulchral. I think this the place
on which Pennant says there are such remains of Druidical
EstabUshment, such as circles. Cromlechs, &c., totaUy mis
representing and mistaking the matter.
Rode on, and crossed an old Bridge over the Skethyn, which
has its source in the Lakes above it, Llyn Irddin, Llyn Bodlyn, H

98 TOURS IN WALES
and Llyn Dulyn, and at this Bridge is grown to a great and a
dashing river. Falls under the Bridge at Talybont. Passing
the Bridge, ascend a green road cleared of the stones naturally
covering it, and marked by repeated Stone pUes as Indexes to
point it out ; and this was used to be the Road of the family of
Corsygedol to Dolgellau, through a mountain uninteresting
Country, with a saving in point of distance 5 miles at least, but
gaining much in point of toil and dreariness. Got so high as to
see a CirciUar Earth Work, not smaU, on a point of Land, between
two little Dingles. Then turned to the Left, picking out our
path, through stones so scattered as to leave very Uttle path,
and that very zigzag, having on the left hand a lava as it were of
very large masses of Stones, mostly of a roundish form, or at
least with no sharp angles, as by attrition, and filUng a hollow
on the Mountain for near half a Mile, in a winding direction,
like the course of a river, exactly as if they had been vomited up
from some Abyss, and continued in motion, as if they had been
a fluid, or put in motion by a wonderful power that continued till
they had formed this River (if I may be aUowed the expression)
of Stones.
Came in sight of the little lake of Irddin, at the foot of a great
Mountain. In this Lake, which is not large, there are nothing
but Trout, but in the Lake of Dulyn there are Char. M".
Vaughan of Corsygedol used to have many potted and sent as
presents to London. On our return M"^ Owen pointed to us
Sarnbadrig, clearly discovered by the breakers on it in nearly a
strait Une, stretching out Westward from the Sand between the
Artro and the Skythin almost opposite Corsygedol, for some
leagues. It seems this Sarn is composed of detached Masses of
Stones, not rounded as if rolled together from time to time by
the agitation of the water, but as if it was the reUck of some Work
of Art, supposed to be done when that flat of Cantref gwaelod
was in being. M' Owen told me he saw a West India Vessel
strike on it and wrecked but the Crew were saved. M' Owen
said there were several purgative Waters in this Country, and
one not far from LlaneUtyd in the HUls, a great Solvent, and
that a Man at an advanced Age had been reUeved by it from the
Stone. This worth Enquiry.
Tuesday.— Met M' Owen and rode over Artro Bridge to Llan
bedr, a chapel of ease to Llandanwg ; plain, mean buildmg ;
roof heavy oak timber ; very rude plain Arch separating

MERIONETH 99
Nave from Chancel. Over Door of Entrance the foUowing
Englyn :— Anneddfawr cadarn noddfa gor breiniol
Ger bron Duw ar dyrfa
Er dim na thyred yma
Y d5Ti ond a meddwl da.
Said to be written by Ellis Wynn, Author of the "Bardd Cwsc."*
From here, lea-ving Cae Nest to the right, the old Seat of the
Pooles, cross another Bridge, under which runs a River that
joins the Artro a Uttle below, making one Estuary. Cross over
part of a Marsh, for the enclosing of which a late Act has passed,
to Llandanwg, a church situated on the Beach, and by having
its chief Door towards the Sea, filled with Sand. The building
simple and old. The East Window, and two side ones of the
Chancel were of free stone, and had been handsomely wrought.
In the Chancel two Monuments, one a handsome mural Marble
Monument to a Gentleman of the name of Edwards, of Tregayan,
in Anglesey, and who had been of Oriel Coll : Oxon, and was
dro-wned -with 3 others crossing to Cricciaeth, a.d. 1753. Another
consisting of Escutcheons cut in oak at the Back of a Pew, to
some of the family of Wynnes of Las Ynis. Chancel separated
from Nave by a neat old carved oak skreen. Enquired for any
tomb in the Church that I could find out Sir R. Thimbleby by,
but in vain. However, the Clerk shewed me a Tomb originally
raised with Mason Work about a Foot above the Surface, covered
with an uninscribed coarse flag, and said there were letters on
the side ; so getting a spade, we removed the sward that had
grown so as to entirely hide the sides, and found one square
piece of Freestone inscribed, which I make no doubt of being the
tomb of the Knight Speed speaks of, whose tomb in his time
might have been well known and explained by those who shewed
it. The Clerk Ukewise said that it was not claimed by any family
in the Parish, and therefore must have belonged to a Stranger, as
every one of the other tombs was known.
The Shells on this Coast are very small, but very beautiful and
very various. There are Sand Eels, Pra-wns, Lobsters, and Oysters
taken hereabouts.
* The true author of this once popular englyn was Mathew Owain, of
Llangar. See " Y Greal," 1807, p. 406 ; " Eos Ceiriog," 1823, ii, p. 416.
It is, or was, found inscribed above, or on the side of, the porches of a number
of Merioneth Churches, among them, Corwen, Dolgelley, Llanbedr,
Llanfrothen, and Talyllyn ; and also on at least one Radnorshire Church,
Cwmdauddwr. The readings vary a little, — Ed.
h2

100 TOURS IN WALES
Nothing goes further I think to prove the existence of Cantref y
gwaelod, and its having been inundated, more than this Church
placed now, with reference to the present parish, at the fag end
of it ; so that it is supposed there imght have been as great a
portion to the S. West as there is to the N. East before the Sea
had incroached. Besides, the Clerk told me there is a house in
Cricciaeth always considered to be in that parish, whose Bounds,
when they ascertain, always point from a certain point in the
Parish to Cricciaeth.
Return, and to the right of the road opposite Llanbedr Church
observe two Meini Hirion together in a Meadow. Rode into the
Field to see them. Found the Largest, a Granite, one side aU
Spar, ten Feet high from the level of the Meadow. The other,
which was only 4 Feet off, much shorter, being of a slaty kind,
and had been broken. Hence to Llanenddwin, a cruciform church,
very plain within, but clean. There is a place, an Island at high
Water, near Llandanwg, called Mochros, and yet in Llanendd-win
Parish. There is another place called Ynis Gwrtheyrn, and near
it there was a Capel Gwrtheyrn.
Returned by way of Llys Osbwrn, on the site of which there
has been a new house built. It Ues in a hollow on the banks of a
small Mountain Stream to the North of Corsygedol. A mile just
above it on a Uttle proj ection there is an old circular Encampment,
probably Osburn's stronghold.
M'. Owen told me that Ellis Wynne had written a second part
of the " Bardd Cwsc," but was dissuaded from publishing it, it
being, as we may suppose, pointed personal Invective.
N.B. — I think before the Lowlands were inundated the Estuary
of the Artro was much farther out, and took its course pure to
the South West, where there might have been a great Port, and
that Sarn Badrig is the remains of an immense Causeway, carried
through a low deep boggy Country to this Port.
In the Evening visited the Corsygedol Chapel, being the only
thing worth noting in Llandduwya. The acco*^ of the Monu
ments are as foUows : —
P* Monument of Freestone of the Country, of a greenish Cast —
Here lyeth the bodie of Griffith Vaughan Esq'-, one of the Livetenantes
of the Countie of Merioneth ; he married Katherine one of the Daughters
of WilUam Griffith of Carnarvon Esquier ; by her had Issue Two Sonnes
and four Daughters ; who died the 9th dale of Nov' A.D. 1616. And in
his perfect health he hath bestowed in marriage all his children. William
his heir to Anne the Inheritrix of Talhenbont ; Margaret to Hookes of
Conwy, he deceased, to Wynne of Conwy ; Jane to Rhiwgoch ; and his
Sonne .lohn left unmarried.

MERIONETH 101
Pillars each side of the Monument. Parents kneeling each
side a Desk, and Children kneeUng behind. Sons behind the Father,
and Daughters behind the Daughters [sic]. Over the figures in
small compartments —
Vixit mortis memor, moriebatur vitae certus.
Mors certa, Hora mortis incerta.
2" Monument a Marble Mural tablet-
Near this lyeth the Body of Rtl Vaughan of Corsygedol Esq', Son of
WilUam Vaughan Esq' by Ann his Wife. He married Marg* D and H
of Sir Evan Lloyd Bodidrist Bar' by his Wife Marg* who Ues interred
underneath, D and C H of Richard Tannat of Abertannat in Shropshire
Esqi-. He had Issue 2 Sons and 4 Daurs William who married Catherine
D and H of Hugh Nanney of Nanney Esqr and Evan. Anna Maria who
dyed in her Infancy. He dyed 28th March 1734 in the 68"' year of his
Age ; having represented this County in 9 successive ParUaments attests
an universal Esteem for his unbiassed conduct.

Underneath lyeth the Body of W"" Vaughan of Corsygedol Esq' Son of
Richard and EUz : D of John Owen of Clynnene Esq'. He married
Aime J) of Griif : Nanney of Nanney Esq' by whom he had Issue 2
Sons and 4 Daiirs. Grifi : the eldest dyed in his 45 year unmarried. Richard
married Marg* D and H of Sir Evan Lloyd of Bodidrist Bar' EUz*''
to Owen of Rhiwsaeson Esq' Arm to Vincent Corbet Esq' and Catherine
to Griff. Wyime of Bodvean Esq' sd'^^ to Hugh Nanney of Narmey
Esq'. This WilUam who was great Grandson to Griffith whose Monum'
is placed in this Chapel dy'd in the year 1669 aged 37. Ann his Wife
who lies interred with him died in the 64 year of her Age 1701.
4th 
Beneath this Ues interred Marg' Vaughan D and H of Sir Evan Lloyd
of Bodidrist in the Co. of Denbigh Bar' and Widow of R'' Vaughan of
Corsygedol Esq' by whom she had 2 Sons and 4 Daughters. Anna Maria
who dyed in her Infancy. Eliz. Catherine and Anne. She died March
10th 1758 in the 83'' year of her age. Out of a pious and fiUal regard to
the memory of so excellent a Woman her Son W" erected this Monument
1772 and likewise in commemoration of his 2 amiable and virtuous Sisters,
Ann Vaughan his youngest who dyed on Eeby 6"' 1760 aged 56, and EUz.
his eldest who died March 8"! 1772 in the 70"' year of her age, both buried
near this place.
It has a Marble Urn on top.
5'h_
To the memory of Evan Lloyd Esq' of Corsygedol who departed this
life Dec' 4"' 1791 in the 83'' year of his Age, this tablet is dedicated as a
token of sincere respect and gratitude by Sir Roger Mostyn Bar' and
Dame Marg' his Wife of Mostyn in the Co. of Flint.
Mural Tablet Urn on top.

102 TOURS IN WALES
6*"—
Here rest the remains of W: Vaughan Esq' of Corsygedol the eldest
Son of Richard V  n Esq' by Marg' only D and H of Sir Evan Lloyd
of Bodidris in the Co: of Denbigh Bar*. He married Catherine 2nd
Daur and sd^^ heiress of Hugh Nanney of Nanney Esq"^ by whom he had
Issue one Daiar Anne married to David John Gwynne of TaUaris Esq' who
died without Issue. W. Vaughan Esq' died 12*'' AprU 1775 in the 67"i
year of his age. He was Lieutenant, Custos Rotulorum, and representative
for this Co : in 5 successive parliaments. This repeated testimony of his
Country's approbation sufficiently declares the unbiassed Integrity with
which he discharged that high and important trust. Sacred to his memory
and with the impulse of true fraternal affection and w^ell merited friendship
this Blonument was erected by his only Brother 1786.
Tablet Marble. Over it are a Pyramidal Slab of black Marble
and 2 Heads of the 2 Brothers, one full face, other profile. Great
likeness. Under Curtain of white Marble.
CWMBYCHAN AND HaRLECH.
Wednesday, 1808. Set off early. Stopped at Llandduwya
to copy inscriptions. Thence to Llanbedr. In a field full of
loose Stones and covered with Fern, to the right of the Road,
observe a large Carnedd surmounted by a large Stone inclined
similar to that in the field above Corsygedol. Turn off at Artro
Bridge to the Right, and follow the River, through a VaUey
prettily broken into rocky Knolls well wooded, the Road winding
with the river, therefore at every hundred yards presenting a
new Landscape. Come to an old Bridge, where the Artro, that
rises in Cwm Nant Coel, unites with what appears here the main
Stream. Before its junction it runs under a picturesque wooden
bridge, exhibiting all together a most interesting scene. This
place, called Cwm yr Avon, which -we still follow till we come to
Crafnant, than which there is not a better wooded Spot in all
Merionethshire, a tract occupying both sides of the River, which
still continues of a respectable Size, and the Mountains each side
very wild and high. This woody place belongs to one of the Name
of Owen, who, not tempted by love of Money, suffers these noble
Foresters to remain, though many of them are of that size as
to fetch from £25 to £30 a. piece. The Woods are chiefly Oak,
though intermixed with other Trees all growing well. Cultivation
here deserts us, and a good road, \vhich, to this place continued
very good. No corn grown, nothing but a miserable Crop of
moory Hay, the road all stone Steps, and, as we approach
Cvraibychan, the path (for I can't call it a road) grows so faint

MERIONETH 103
that it can scarcely be tracked ; but after losing it and gaining it
several times, open the little Vale and the bottom of the Lake
where it empties itself. The Lake perfectly fllls the Vale, hardly
leaving a Path each side, and the Boundaries are very barren,
wild, and high, particularly the side to the N. East and that to
the S. West. The House stands at the upper end of the Lake
exactly opposite to its efflux, and bears from it about W. N.
West. It Ues close under a small sloping Hill, projecting from the
Mountain that rises behind it, covered with Oaks, and has all its
demesne, consisting of a very healthy looking Meadow and pasture
gently falUng from the House to the Lake, filUng the upper part
of the little Vale, the Lake occupying the other part, the lower.
I observe the Embouchure deepened, with a View of draining
the Lake, as M' Pennant says was once in contemplation of the
late possessor. The place in itself has nothing so uncommonly
beautiful or Picturesque, and would not call for so much notice,
were it not for its peculiar history, as being in the possession of
the same family from Father to Son for 600 Years, without
diminution or increase, and being perhaps the only habitation
of such rank, at the same distance, from the main Road, or a Town.
Vide Pennant. It is now let, I hear, to a Tenant. Goats in
abundance about the Crags. Out of this Lake issues a stream
which, uniting with another that comes from a Mountain side
to the South, forms that River we pursue till it joins the Artro,
and there loses its original Name, whatever that may be.
Resume our Horses, which we had abandoned for more than a
mile before we got to Cwmbychan, and retrace our former road,
and after passing the Woods of Crafnant turn to the right into
a very good Mountain Road, leading to Harlech, where we
arrive time enough to explore aU the outer Castle before dinner,
leaving the interior for our postprandian entertainment. The
Castle is a most superb building, whether we consider its magni
tude, its site, or its masonry and style of Architecture. It is
nearly a square, with rounded Bastions, very large at each
Corner. The Front towards the Land, where was the Chief
and only Entrance, is very magnificent, as exactly on each side
the entrance, and extending a considerable way into the Area
of the Castle, being a smaUer Castle -withm the other, in that
portion of it caUed the Keep, wherein were the Governor's and
the other principal Apartments, as well as Chapel, I think occu
pying the centre part, just above the grand Entrance. The
Castle lying just East and West. It was moated towards the
Land, the water now running close by it. The Moat was deep.

104 TOURS IN WALES
cut out of the Rock, over which was a drawbridge. Had a curtain
Wall, taking the form of the Castle, aU round it, leavmg a wide,
spacious walk round it ; and on the South side in the Centre
a small Bastion forming a privy. This Curtain Wall in many
places was so incorporated with the Rock on which the whole
stands, that the junction can hardly be discovered ; and another
Curtain Wall turreted, and projecting here and there into smaU
Bastions, springing from another wall, that connected with the
North East Bastion, and skirted the Chasm part of the Moat,
and carried all round the Base of the Rock, taking a spiral
ascent, or rather an oblique ascent, till it joins the inner Curtain
on the South side. Observed small square turrets united here
and there to portions of the Rock half way up on the Sea side,
where the Rock presents a most majestick and inaccessible
Front, at least a hundred feet high to the building ; so that on
the Sea side it had this amazing strong natural protection, besides
the curtain at its base ; and I take it that there was a moat
at bottom, receivmg the Water that fell from the front Moat
on each side in a Cascade (to be seen on one side to this day),
and forming a deep Canal below ; so that taking the fortress
altogether, it must have been impregnable. Looked at from
every way, it is a most beautiful and magnfficent pUe, and when
you couple it wdth the grand features of the Snowdonian tract,
and the lovely outline of Llyn, which must come into every view
of it, nothing can surpass it.
From hence the Snowdonian tract appears to the greatest
advantage, and the Coast of Llyn, the whole Une being perfect
from the highest point of the Snowdon range to Bardsey Island.
The Town, or rather poor Village of Harlech, is the most forlorn,
beggarly place imaginable, yet it boasts to be the County Town,
and here the Member is returned. The BuUding they shew you
for the Town Hall is now ruinous and unroofed, and yet within
these walls the Member is returned. It had been a small though
respectable building, having two opposite doors cased with cut
stone arched, and a moulding of Freestone running along the
Wall to the East, where was the chief Magistrate's Seat. Their
Charter, if ever they had one, has been lost, yet they were used
to make Burgesses, that privUege, on what authority I know
not, having been exercised conjointly by the famiUes of Corsy
gedol and Maesyneuadd, Houses tracing their origin to the same
Head. There had been a Chapel and a place of Interment
opposite to the Castle, as the Man told me. He had taken the
site to make tanpits of, and in digging them, he fell on several

MERIONETH

105

Skeletons, without anything lUie a covering of a coffin of Wood
or Stone, in the bed of Marl. There was one Skeleton of a
Woman far advanced in her pregnancy, as there were small ribs
mixed with the larger, and a small skull. At the upper end of
the Town, the end towards Barmouth, there appears a large old
House, as if there had formerly been some consequence attached
to it. About two years ago, an Act passed for inclosing a Common
caUed Harlech Marsh, on which were bred famous Ponies, and now
it appears divided into good sized fields, separated by Fences
at right Angles, and is getting into fine cultivation very fast.
The beggarly Burgesses of Harlech, who had a right of Common
here, represent it as a great Lordship. It may be a loss to a
beggarly individual, but it must form a great accession to the
wealth of the Country.
Thursday. — Left Corsygedol, and passing through Barmouth,
take the Ferry boat for our horses, and a small boat for our
selves, as we wished to go up to Dolgelly, by the Road on the
opposite side. The Buildings at Barmouth amazingly increased.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of the View on approaching the
mouth of the Estuary, appearing like a vast Lake, with the
Boundaries uncommonly grand and varied, several of the Uttle
woody projecting Knolls having the appearance of small Islands.
Landing the other side, and the Tide having ebbed sufficiently,
we gain a most charming ride over the sands, quite smooth and
hard, till at the farther end we cross the Beach, and get into the
Turnpike road which -winds amazingly on the edge of the marshy
flat opposite Barmouth. The road is so far recessed that we
don't see the water but seldom. In looking back we have a fine
View of Barmouth, seen at one View, and its peculiar site most
distinctly marked, in that part where the Houses rise over each
other. Pass under high craggy rocks well wooded, particularly
that part before you come to the spot that belonged to a M'
Roberts, Surgeon, of Ruthin, where he had perched a pretty
whimsical buUding on a Ledge of the HUl, and beautffied it with
several plantations, to make the retreat more agreeable to a
]y[r3 Pryce, who after the death of her husband, had buried
herself in this retirement. Just below this House, near a new
Bridge, there is a new Chapel of Ease to Celynnin. The Woods
of Garth Angharad next attract notice, through which over a
narrow Dingle superbly wooded, and ending at a Uttle Influx of
the Estuary, the new road passes, and above which, the present
Possessor has buUt a Mansion on an eminence that must com-

106 TOURS IN WALES
mand the most delightful View of all the opposite Mountains,
Llyn, Barmouth, and the whole reach of the -wide part of the
Estuary. Here the ground is broken into the most picturesque
forms imaginable, and every point clad with trees as the Painter
could wish. Hence through a tract of a mile or two very un
interesting, barren and woodless, and out of sight of the water.
Pass Penmaen, the Port of Dolgellau, where goods are shipped
and unshipped, as Vessels may come up thus far Ebb tides.
Hence by a most beautiful little Farm called Tygwyn, prettUy
shut in amongst woody Knolls, with a pretty form extending
from it to the West wood, and watered by a fine Mountain Stream
that rims under Pont Frydain we cross in ascending to Cader Idris.
Just after crossing the River, the Bye, turning through the well
wooded narrow Vale through which this stream precipitates
itself, encounters suddenly only the two grand points of Cader
Idris over the Crater Lake seen over fine Woods. This of all
the places I ever saw has more capability of being made a fine
and a practicable place, being on the edge of a navigable river,
with a Mill near, a fine turnpike road, within 3 Miles of a Market
and Port town, having rich land around it, and some of the
finest features of this country are breaking upon it from several
points most enchantingly.
Hence leaving Bryn Adda and a charming new House of
M' Ranely (?) of Bryn gwyn on the right, each place being
most delightfully wooded. Got to DolgeUey by 4 o'clock.
N.B. — There are three large Flats of Turbary between the
Beach we crossed from Barmouth to Dolgelley, one near the
Beach, the other half way up, and the other near DolgeUey, on
which most of the Inhabitants within that District depend for
their firing.
Friday. — Left Dolgellau and took the Road to the North of
Cader Idris to Ynisymangwyn, a party just before us going up
to the Mountain under Convoy of old Robert Edwards, the long
accustomed Guide, who now near 90 ascends on an average
during the Summer 3 times a Week the summit of the Cader,
and when he comes down seems as active as a schoolboy, and
often takes his rod and goes afishing. He was married, as appears
by the register of the Church, 64 years ago ; so that it is most
probable, from that circumstance and others confirming it, he
is 90. He owns to 86 ; and of that age, he is certainly as sur
prizing a Man as ever lived. He is a little Man, and has been
given to drinlving all his lifetime when he could get it. For

MERIONETH 107
these 25 or 30 years he has had his support chiefly from the Rev'*
M' Nanney of Ll-wyn.
Though clear but warm below, round the lower point of the
Mountain towards the Sea, there was a thick fleecy cloud forming,
and advancing towards the highest peak. We pass under it,
and yet beyond find everything in Sunshine. The Mountains
to our left high, but losing graduaUy their craggy character.
Towards the estuary, a heap of craggy KnoUs, covered with
stunted growth ; to the right, and very near the Lakes of
C'ryg gyuon, you see what is caUed Llys Bradwen, about 300
yards from the road, on a gentle slope above a small mountain
Stream, being no more than antient foundations of the rude
palace of the above Chieftain, one of the 15 Tribes of N. Wales,
marked by large coarse stones, marking out the Ichnography of
two Apartments, one a square and the other circular, with all
round it a number of other smaller foundations, of the huts,
probably, of his Vassals. In one of the lakes of Crygynog,
abounding with Trout only, there is a smaU Island, there is
to the left, in a deep Hollow under a precipitous ravine in the
Mountain, a Lake caUed Llyn Ceri, Qu : The Road, which
though paid for, and meant for a turnpike, begins to lose all
pretensions to such a Character, being rough, stony, and in many
parts hardly traceable, and taking its course up very steep
pitches ; then going on tolerably straight, overlooking a most
uninteresting tract, woodless and barren, to the Estuary of Bar
mouth. From hence of ugly appearance, though seen from Bar
mouth Uke the most charming Lake I ever beheld. Such is
the difference between a Landskip seen from above, or below.
Hence we have a distant Bird's eye View of it, and from Bar
mouth we look from below on the Expanse of Water, and the
grand Boundaries rising from it all round. After crossing the
ridge of a very steep ascent, turn a little to the left, where the
Mountains change into fine Downy Hills, though of great height ;
extensive sheep walks, and well peopled with the Inhabitants
best suited to them. For some Miles not a habitation, unless
here and there, in some sheltered situation, an Havodty. Con
tinue winding a few Miles through narrow dmgles at the foot of
those hiUs, watered by numerous mountain Rills pouring down
in every direction. Not a tree to be seen. In short, Merioneth
shire here assumes a character totally different from what it
exhibits in every other part of it, and of a very peculiar kind,
the HiUs not displaying a single Crag, but downy to the top.

108 TOURS IN WALES
and not broken like the other high grounds at the summit ; and
this peculiarity seems chiefly confined to the Hundred of Celynin.
After a dreary ride and a considerable bend to the left, our
attention is most suddenly arrested by the opening of the two
Vales of Towyn and Peniarth, and at a spot just where the
present new road faUs into the old descent towards Peniarth,
opposite to a bold Hill rising in front of you, which, projecting
into the Vale, entirely prevents the eye from seeing the union
of the Vales. Every traveller should stop and satiate himself
with a View full of such sort of beauty and peculiarly picturesque
diversity, that few portions of this or any country can rival.
On one side to the right, the fine expanded Vale of Towyn,
almost made a meadow of out of a Marsh and a Bog by the
patriotick exertions of M' Corbet, whose fine Seat rises on a
little elevation in the middle, spreads itseU to the Sea, with the
Estuary of the Dysynny winding through it, shewing meanders,
with the Ocean beyond. On the other side, a more confined,
but rich little Vale, out of which the Bird's Rock rises with its
fine picturesque and broken summit to the South ; another craggy
projection nearly facing it to the North ; and a voluminous
succession of Mountains, gradually heightening to the Peak of
Cader Idris, towering most awfully above the whole.
From hence we may best form an Idea of the height of Cader
Idris, as you have an opportunity of measuring it by so many
intermediate heights. The new Road is marked out to turn that
projecting point which hides the junction of the Vales, but is
not yet in a state to be used. However, we rode round it, and
were delighted with the pleasing effect of seeing that Landscape
just before apparently so widely disunited, forming one grand
interesting scene bounded by the Ocean to the West, and the
picturesque gradation of the majestick altitude of Cader Idris.
Descend to Peniarth, a Seat of the Wynnes. The House seems
new, and apparently so placed as not to take in the principal
beauties it might command, having its front to a Hill not Quarter
of a Mile from it, and neither facing its Eastern boundary the
Mountains nor its Western the Sea. Hence to the little VUlage
of Egrin.
Dean Tucker told M' Williams, Apothecary, of Aberystwith,
that he was brought up in the School at Llanegrin. I heard
my Mother say that she remember'd him keeping school at
Llanbadarn. Descend to a Bridge across the Dysynny. To the right,
before we reach the Bridge, observe a fine large perfect Tumulus

MERIONETH 109
of Earth. Hence to Ynis y Mangwyn. Time enough to see
some very striking improvements of M' Corbet's before Dinner.
Saturday.— After seeing M' Corbet's pleasure Grounds, and
making the circuit of his Gardens, enter on his new Embankment,
under the Act for inclosing the Common in the township of
Vaenol, by which the River Dysynny is thrown into a straiter
Channel, that is less winding, and close to the Egrin side of the
Vale, causing the estuary to be deeper and the navigation to be
easier. The Allotment all together to Ynis y Mangwyn is about
500 acres, about 100 of which belongs to M' Corbet himself,
independent of his tenancy for life in the Ynis y Mangwyn
Estate, as belonging to a Tenement he bought of Mr. Powel,
his Son in Law. The Embankment is at its base about 30 Ft.
wide, with a bevel on each side, and about 13 or 14 Feet to the
Apex or summit. The divisions of Mr. Corbet's Allotments
are by drains cut at right Angles, which, taken all together,
make 6 MUes. Some of these drains are made wide enough to
admit of being made a navigable Canal, with an eye to the prob
able success of the Coal Mine.
When I recollect the nature of the boggy Marsh I have just
traversed its extent, and the difficulties that must have been
encountered, from a tide river, the work appears like Enchant
ment ; and now to see, in some parts, the first year fine Corn,
bending under a weight of Ear, and in other parts, Cattle feeding
and fattening in a much shorter time than on any other pasture.
Horses have been brought there fairly hacked down, with greased
heels and other disorders, and in a Week's time they get rid of
their disorders, and get fat and sleekerated.* In order to make
his navigable ducts with a view to the expected Coal Work,
he has fallen on an excellent Method ; they branch out Uke
great Arteries, all branching from one spot or Wharf, to which
they extend at the base of the HUl where the Coal is, and are
ramffied so as to end at different landing places near the Estuary
to be shipped. The method he adopts is this : the land being
aU the finest turf bottom, he with an appearance of uncommon
generosity makes an offer of as much turf as they can dig in
certain directions to aU his neighbours, who accept it with thanks
and avidity, as being much dryer than what they get out of
Turbaries nearer their habitations, and easier of carriage, beside
having a fine dry land to harvest them on. By this means his
*This might also be read " sleekenated," but neither word is entered in
the New EngUsh Dictionary (Dr. Murray) — En.

110 TOURS IN WALES
Canals wiU be all made for nothing, and his Land weU manured
by being covered with the Turf spread on it to dry.
I saw some of the finest Meadows near his house in my memory,
boggy, reclaimed by judicious drainmg, undergoing the process
of irrigation, with as productive an Effect as those in the downs
of Wiltshire, and by the simplest process imaginable. After
the Walk over and through the new reclaimed Land, which
extends in Length from the former old Embankment of Towyn
Demesne to the Beach about two Miles, and in breadth about
a Mile, walked by the Well of Towyn, lying on the edge of the
Marsh. There I saw two Boys and an old Woman bathing.
The Water was foul and turbid, but is esteemed uncommonly
efficacious in various complaints, particularly of the Rheumatick
kind, though M' Corbet has told me he finds great relief from it
in fresh contracted Coughs, but then he follows the Water up
to the Eye, just at the back of the Cemetery to the N. West.
It certainly has some degree of sulphur and sea salt in its compo
sition. Pity it is not well analyzed.
Went into the Church, a good large cruciform building. Odd
round stubby Pillars, quite plain, supporting the Nave, as it
has something like narrow side Aisles, formed from -without by
half roofs. The Tower once stood in the centre of the building,
now removed to the West end. In the Chancel there are two
plain Canopies, under which are two figures recumbent.
Sunday. — Sir Richard and I mounted our Horses immediately
after breakfast, and set off by Pont fathew for Peniarth Vale.
Pass a fine flat, wet and marshy, now disfigured with Turf
Stacks, but which M' Corbet, as owning the greatest part of it,
has in contemplation to get an Act for inclosing it, by which
division it will become drained, a revolution that will add great
beauty to the Vale. It had been my good fortune, from a long
acquaintance with this Vale, to see Craig y Deryn in every
degree of Approximation from the Beach at the Estuary of the
Dysynny to its very base, and I can't help observing, that,
unUke most other grand mountainous or rocky objects which
generaUy diminish in interest as you get nearer, this improves,
for at a distance those fine Breaks constituting its principal
beauty are lost or too indistinctly seen ; and Sir Richard Hoare
confessed that he never saw a single Mountain so extremely
picturesque, and that admitted of more variety on a nearer
approach. In coming up the Vale by the road on the South
side, it seems a thin flat projection, with an irregular Summit

MERIONETH 111
stretching out into the Vale, but on coming under it you find it a
mass of Rock broken into the finest Shapes, particularly its
summit, which has three principal points, one next the main
Hill, another in the middle, of a singular shape, looking like
an old truncated tower or old Encampment surrounded by a
Wall, which proves to be nothing more than a regular Line of
white Spar encircUng its base ; and the principal Head inclining
forward towards the Vale, from which a bristly ridge stretches
fairly do-wn to the fiat below.
All this, which seen from the Marsh below Ynis y mangwyn,
appears like a smooth sided projecting Hill, now assumes when
under it forms and inequalities picturesque in the highest degree.
Here and there some tangled growth is seen from the interstices
and hollows of the rock, but when we doubled the Cape, what
appeared but a narrow thin projection, presented a Front of
vast extent and height of pure rock rising half way up from
a lava of Stones sloping down to the road, and that part exactly
under the principal point, a side of rock smooth as a wall bending
forward most tremendously. Round these Crags Cormorants
and other Sea Birds that build here are hovering and screaming
incessantly, greatly contributing to the wildness of the Scene.
Nor is this rock uninteresting seen in approaching it from the
upper part of the Vale. In short, this fine feature looked at
any way is wonderfully striking. In our way, stop at Perveth-
nant to look at the Druidical relick called Cromlech, resting on
2 Stones, the recumbent stone being rather large. There seems
just by another of the same Character overturned. All the
Hills to the right of the road well fringed with wood all the
way up as far as Cae'rberUan. We only just rode to catch a
peep of the Knoll on which stands Castellabyry.
Return the same way. Observe a Tumulus in one of the
Fields of Peniarth issa. Peniarth ucha, which, with its
former accompaniment of Wood, seemed a beautiful place, has
now lost its charms. Rode up to Bronbyban, the Farm on
which M' Corbet is now trying for Coal. Met M' C  and
his Men with fire and Lamps to light us through the subteraneous
Adit. It has already been carried horizontally about 120 yards,
with two shafts at certain Intervals driven perpendicularly for
Air. Various are the Strata that are already gone through, and
they are now got to what Miners call Clunch, a kind of whitish
bluestone edged with orange Colour crocus. In general, this
Stratum is within a small distance of the real Coal, many strata
of bastard having already been passed. The Adit is on a

112 TOURS IN WALES
sufficiently incUned plane for the Water to run, of which there
is a considerable Stream. I think that Water should be analyzed.
Too much praise cannot be given for his perseverance in a work
liable to such obstructions as might fatigue any patience ; but
he has simplified his plan of operations so as to render the
expence comparatively trifling to the vastness of the speculation,
which is by no means visionary, and all his Expences are fixed to
£32 a month, that is, £384 per Annum, but his Banker issues
£10 a Week, which makes £520 p' Ann., that is, £136 for aU
extraordinaries, an aUowance more than what will cover them.
This is all his Expence for working both the Coal and the lead
Mine, of the latter of whicl he has about 200 Ton ready prepared
marketable. In the evening went in the Coach to see his Lead Mines, which
I entered, as I never had seen anything of the kind, but saw a
great deal of rough ore on the Bank, and under the different
sheds a great deal properly managed for the market Great
prospect of an immense Vein, it being already larger than most
Veins known. The ore is of the richest quality.
Monday. — Left Inis y mangwyn and followed the Vale up to
Talyllyn. At Abercanolwyn a tributary stream comes from
the Mountains to the right and falls into the Dysynny at that
place, and both joined take a Course to the left by Caerberllan,
and in the Vale of Peniarth, receiving many other tributary
rills, proceed thus enlarged to the Estuary. There is through
that mountain opening whence the Canolwyn issues an old
road that leads one way to Machynlleth, and another way to
Pennal. Quere, could this be the Roman road that perhaps
might have gone up by Talyllyn, through Stratwen, the fair
pavement, up by Minfordd on to Caerynwch, where probably
there might have been a station between Pennal and Tommen
y Mur and Caergai ?
Proceed by the Inn, on the Banks of the Lake, to Dol y cae,
where, taking a shepherd Boy, barefooted, for my guide, who
picked his pilgrim steps over the bare flint before me, I ascended
to Llyn Cae. After a most steep and arduous winding walk,
through Crags and spongy wet Ground for near 4 Miles, I got
to the Lake, quite circular and full to its rocky sides. It is to
the South bounded by perpendicular Rocks for two thirds of
the Circle ; the other part facing the opening towards it a high
Bank covered with large detached Rocks. The Lake had the
appearance of being very deep, but much of its grandeur was

MERIONETH 113
lost, by the mountain summit being capped with thick mists,
so that not above half their height appeared. All the way up
to the right of the path I took, the Boundary of the Pass was
wUd, abrupt, and finely broken ; yet in this desolate region
I found a shepherd and his Dog pursuing his fiock, where I
should have thought there was nothing to sustain them. From
the South East corner of the Lake issues a Stream which, by
receiving smaU riUs that here and there pour down the Moun
tain side, in a white line, becomes a considerable river, and
forms a series of very beautiful Lakes above the House of
Dol y Cae.
In Stratwen Common remains of some Earth Work and
something Uke an old Grave near the Edge. Quere, what it
could have been.
The Vale of Talyllyn perhaps yields to few scenes in North
Wales for grandeur and picturesque beauty. The lake is large
and very beautiful. Its fish are large, cut of a yeUowish red,
but tribe rather muddy, and rise freely ; many are a pound
weight. The North side of the Lake is made of Cader Idris
and its dependencies, broken into many wild and abrupt ravines,
intermixed with very cheerful fertUe down and a good deal
of Wood, particularly in the several dingles, through which
the mountain discharges its various cataracts. On the other
side the Boundary, though high, is a fine green sheep walk,
falling very steep to the edge of the Lake, at the West End of
y'' Lake, where it discharges itseU through a one Arch Bridge.
On one stands a pubUck house, on the other the Parish Church
of TalyUyn, elevated on a little bank. Its Churchyard, as it is
a most extensive parish, is very full of memorials of the dead,
on fine slate Flags neatly worked and pitched on end.
The East End displays some very rich fertUe fields and
Meadows, and above those the Vale fairly closes as seen below,
so that no person would conceive any exit that way ; but the
Machynlleth Road to DolgeUy takes that course, between a
very wUd pass formed by the Mountains on each side, terminating
in very high and broken craggy Summits. Under a very craggy
point on the North side is the small lake of the three Grains, by
the edge of which the road passes. It takes its name from three
detached masses of Rock lying on its Margin. To enquire if it
has Fish.
Hence over a tract of Turbary ground. The Road leads
directly strait. Leave Wemgraig on the left, the original
Mansion whence Sir Robert Vaughan's Ancestry sprang. About

114 TOURS IN WALES
the middle of this strait reach of Road, a fine View of the Cader
Idris tract, as you see the three points at once in a very grand
style. Abandon the old Road to DolgeUy on the left and foUow
the new Cut to the right, which takes a most charming direction,
through a well wooded part particularly near the new Mansion
of Counsellor Richards, seemingly a charming situation and fine
Grounds, if Wood, Water, and prospect can produce them.
The new Road all the way most interesting quite to Dolgelley,
and commanding the best View of the Vale of any place, as it
winds above it through woods for near two MUes.
Tuesday. — Visited the Church of Dolgelley, being an old
Church in an entire new Case. It consists of a Nave, very
wide, and side Aisles separated by 4 Wooden slender Pillars
for the roof to rest on, or rather, a very wide roof coved with
a wooden cieling, and those taU disproportionate wooden columns
introduced to take away from the awkward width. It has this
great singularity that it has no Pews, only Forms of Wood,
with the Names of the different proprietors painted on the
back ; but they are not as Moses Grant has represented so
calculated, as that the Audience faces the Altar, whereas half
the Seats face the Altar, and the other half face the contrary
way, in my opinion, producing a very awkward effect, but
certainly, by being open, they are more likely to induce those
who sit in them to deport themselves more decently than when
they are bored up in high-sided Pews.
There are 4 Windows, round-Arched each side, and a large
Window of the same sort in the bowed east end, where the
communion table stands, by which means the Church is rendered
very Ught. The Pulpit and reading Desk very judiciously
placed, for hearing and light, in the space between the Windows
on the North side, so that there are two Windows on one side
and two on the other of the pulpit. It has a Tower, not very
lofty, at the West end, and the Church is covered with blue
slate. Within the Church, just at the Entrance into the Chancel,
under a plain Canopy, is the Effigy of a Warrior a little raised
from the ground. He is in Armour ; Legs not crossed ; shield
charged with his famUy Arms on left Arm ; his right holding
a sword passing across his Body obliquely from right to left ;
his feet resting on two Dogs with their Heads different ways,
and one seemingly in the act of laying hold of some little creature
like a rat or Weasel. Quere if there was anything meant by
such representations on Monuments.

MERIONETH 115
Round his Shield is inscribed — Hic jacet Meurig filius Ynyr
Vychan, being Meurig ap Ynyr Fychan of Nanney, Grandfather
of Howel Sele, who lived in Glyndwr's time ; and I cannot
help observing a propriety in the above inscription I could -wish
had been more generally attended to, that of not attempting
to latinize the Welsh Names, by giving them the inflexions of
Cases, or, what is stiU worse, by changing them into Latin
Names, as Eynion Clud into Eneas Claudus. I am certain that
this practice has been a great detriment to history, and has
begot great obscurity and confusion. Proper names should
remain indecUnable, and never should be attempted to be
transfused into other Languages.
On the South side of Chancel a Mural square Tablet of Slate
or black Marble in a frame of wood — Ludovic : Nanney Gent :
sepult :fuit 17. Feb. A.D. 1708.
A mural marble Monument — M.S.
Underneath lyeth the Body of Rob' Nanney late of Llwyn m this Parish
Attorney at Law who dy'd the 26""' day of Nov' 1751 aged 71. During
the course of his practice he acted -with more than common lenity upright
ness and integrity, as his sweetness of temper and humanity made him
beloved and respected by all his acquaintance, so his death was much
lamented ; in gratitude to the memory of one of the best of Fathers Lewis
Nanney of Llwyn af Esq' his only Son by Mary Wjmne daur of Howel
Gw3mne late of Llangower Esq' deceased caused this Monument to be
erected. Underneath also lyeth the body of Mary Nanney daur of the said Lewis
Narmey by Anne his Wife who dyed the 8"' of May 1751 aged one.
Another mural Marble Monument —
Underneath lie the remains of Lewis Nanney of Llwyn Esq' one of his
Majesty's .Justices of the Peace for this County who ha-ving lived much
respected and beloved died sincerely regretted by his family and neighbours
in particular, his acquaintance and the pubUck in general, on the 27'''
of August 1779 aged 63. This Monument tribute of her esteem was
erected by order of his mournful Widow Anne Nanney.
There is another Monument, but I had not time to copy it.
N.B. — The Font is a handsome Vase of black and white
Marble on a pUlar of the same.
Our ride to Bala was rather unpleasant, as it rained all the
way, but not attended with wind. Noted the approach to
that turning in the Vale before you reach Drws y Nant, to be,
I think, more beautiful on this side than on the other, as the
Mountains break in above the woods most charmingly on the
View.
i2

116 TOURS IN WALES
In the Evening, M' aud M'^ Meyrick Hoare, whom we had met
at DolgeUy with her sister, M'^ Mostyn, drank tea with us.
Thursday.— M' Charles Wynne, Brother of Sir Watkin, caUed,
to whom I was introduced. He is a Barrister ; seems a well
informed man, and a great Enthusiast as to Welsh Antiquities
and its Language ; proffered in the most handsome way his
services as to their vast MSS. Collection at Wynstay, and pressed
me to visit it.
Friday. — Rode to Rhiwlas. M'** Pryse a most charming,
pleasant Woman. A beautiful place, but it is a pity it was
not placed nearer the Road, as it then would have seen Aran
and a greater reach of the Lake. Saw Humphrey Llwyd's
portrait on boards. Took a walk to a little KnoU above the
House. From thence we see the Aran, the Arennig, Cader
Idris, and Snowdon — a singular occurrence, and what perhaps
no other situation in the Country can command.
N ever were two people seemingly so formed for mutual happi
ness as M' and M"* Pryce ; he manly, plain, and unceremonious ;
she totally devoid of affectation, -with Manners just sufficiently
reflned to stamp her the Gentlewoman ; both domestick, seldom
leaving their home ; she superintending her Nursery and House
hold ; he carrying on farming on an extensive and judicious
scale, and therefore much employed out of Doors, as well in
overlooking so great a Concern, as in the season in planting.
It were well for the Country if more of the great families in it
were disposed to live as they do. M' Pryce is a good husband,
a good father, the best possible landlord, the best neighbour,
a zealous, useful Patriot, a good Magistrate, and, in a Country
overrun with sectaries and fanaticks, a strenuous Friend to the
established Church.

The Source of the Dee.
It rises just under a thorn tree to the right, a 100 yards of
the Farm of Pant Gwyn. There are two springs with an equal
claim on the honour of being wet nurse to this celebrated river,
which, it is said, obtained the name of Dwfrdwy, subaudi ffynnon,
on this account. Before the water of either of these springs
can take anything like a run sufficient to fret a channel for them,
a mountain stream, seemingly, from the depth and attrition
of the bed it passes through, of a wild character at times, falls

MERIONETH 117
into the Une marked faintly by the stream the above springs
shew, which thus increased give some beginning to them, whereas
this tributary rUl contributes much more to the feeding of the
Dee than Springs that at its junction vrith them were hardly
got into motion or currency. Much folly discovered in endea
vouring to settle the source of rivers, from that of the NUe to
that of the Dee, Abyssinia or Merionethshire.
Continued my Merioneth Journal, Sep' 30"' 1808 at
Dolgelley.
Wednesday Sep' 28"'. — Set off from Trawsfynydd. Evening
cloudy, cold, and mizzling rain, or rather half sleet. Nothing
can exceed the uniform dreariness of the region round Traws
fynydd — a cold, spongy soil, and turbary. Even the Mountains
that di-vide that Country from Ardudwy are not of a very
striking Character, if you except the pass caUed Drws Ardudwy.
The Road to DolgeUey for so long a reach, the straitest I ever
saw, and -with the least possible up and down hiU. It runs above
the Eden. The VUlage of Trawsfynydd lies between the Eden
and the Prysor, which join and encrease the Mowddach, which
receives the Cain and the Maw, and then uniting with the River
Wnion by Dolgelley, forms the Estuary of Barmouth or Abermaw.
Stop at Doljmielynllyn to see the beautiful and picturesque
faUs on the Canfa, a river that has its course rather precipitous
all the way, being, in the greatest part of it, much incUned to a
cataract, but the two principal falls are just above an Alpine
Bridge, over which you go to M' Madox's charming cottage.
I question whether in all Wales there are two finer falls seen at
once, and so happUy disposed of and with such rich accompany-
ment of Wood and Rock. A remarkable Oak of considerable
size grows out of the solid Rock j ust above the Bridge. The upper
fall ought to be looked at from a point higher up than that from
which you see the both together, as you catch a part you don't see
from below, and the different sheets are seen to cross each other
in a curious way.
Ride up to see the cottage, which is most deUghtfuUy situated
on a Uttle KnoU, with pleasing sweUs and mequalities in the Uttle
la-wn about, over which some very fine old Trees, Oak and Birch,
together with younger growth, are sprinkled. A fine meadow
beneath, and at the back a noble Wood terminating in a range
of Rocks with an even front, towermg above the Wood. The
Cottage has a Veranda quite rustick about it, consists of 3 Rooms

118 TOURS IN WALES
below, with Offices behind, and bed Chambers above. Near one
end of it, scarce seen amongst shrubs and Trees, is a Gothick
building to imitate a ruin overgrown with Ivy, which M' Maddox
made a Ball room of. It is now occupied by a M' Bowes.
Pursue our Road above the Maw to DolgeUey. Come to a
beautiful turn of the River at the opening of Llanelltid Vale,
which is one rich Meadow. Just at this bend there are some
noble Woods belonging to M' Nanney of Cefndeuddwr. At the
bottom of this Vale stood Cymmer Abbey, the Monks of which
had all this rich Land in Demesne and a Wier. The Site of the
Abbey is now occupied by a Farm house called Vanor, or the
Manor house, and the small Ruins that remain are entirely hid by
Ivy and Trees. It stands on the Nanney side of the River,
opposite Llanelltid ViUage and Church. Reach Dolgelley a
little after Night, and take my lodging at lilwyn. Saw at
Trawsfj'^nydd 3 Daggers and a Lance head finely wrought found
in a Cistvaen or in a Carnedd not far off.
Thursday, Sep' 29, 1808. — Was on Horse-back by eight
o'clock. A fine morning in the Vale, but with Snow on the
Cader. Air keen ; and joining my Friend W. Owen we pro
ceeded half way to Barmouth, on the Turnpike Road, then turn
up, by a steepish ascent, the old Road to Harlech above a rattUng
mountain Stream, having pretty falls on it, that passes under
Pont du at the manufactory there. We enter an extensive
opening among the Mountains consisting of several respectable
Freeholds well wooded, and in good cultivation, being the
remnant of Gavelkind division, this being a tract given to one of
the Sons of Osbwrn Wyddel, and again subdivided among his
posterity, where they became a Clan. Here my Friend M' Parry
lives, at a place called Hendreforion StUl ascend, then descend
and come to a flat above Sylvaen extending a Mile or more, tiU
we reach the Base of a pretty high Mountain, over which is the
pass to Hengwm, the place of our destination. The ascent is
very steep, long, and winding, and bears a very appropriate
Name, being called Bwlch y Rhiwgyr, the Pass of the pointing
Ascent. Just in the Bwlch, which was very cold, highly gratffied
by a burst of Sea prospect on one side bounded by Llyn, and on
the other the whole range of Cader Idris, -with its points capped
with Snow.
Hence we descend, aUghting from our Horse, through loose
stones and over stone steps to a considerable sloping flat open
to the Sea on one side, and shut up behind by the high Mountains

MERIONETH 119
separating Ardudwy from the other part of Merionethshire.
This flat seemed to have been covered with heaps of Stones, and
once marking ancient habitations, -with a large Circle surrounded
with an Agger of Stones, with several smaUer Circles without it
and touching it.
Just above the little Stream that faUs from the Mountains into
Hengwm are the two famous Carneddau Hengwm. The largest,
in length, 4 Tapes, in breadth, one and a half. At the East End
there is a large Cist Vaen surmounted by an immense incumbent
Stone, seemingly sUpped from the more horizontal position it once
had. In several parts of the Carn there appears to have been a
large incumbent stone covering Cistvaens and those covered
-with smaU Stones of which the Carn is composed. Under one of
these the Shepherds have formed their Hut and kindle fire and
keep their food. The smaller Carnedd seemed to have had bedded
in it 4 upright Stones or Meini Hirion, of about 12 feet long, one
only now erect, the others fallen ; and near the West end of it
are unmenso horizontal stone covering a Cist vaen. The
Carneddau are long, or rather Oval, and may have been a sort, of
famUy Mausoleum of the Reguli who ruled in this district, or
more probably of the Druids who officiated there, their sepulchres,
in my opinion, being always distinguished by Cistvaens, a
circumstance that accounts for their not being so frequent as
plain Carneddau or TumuU. And I can't help thinking but the
true Cromlech was still for sacrificial or other sacred purposes
as an Altar, that is, the incumbent Stone with some small inclina
tion resting on this or three upright Stones ; but that the
Cistvaen, which was a stone Chest covered with an Altar Stone
pointed out the Sepulchre of the Druid or Priest.
Proceeding still downwards towards Egrin, observe several
antient inclosures of various shapes, and two circular ones, with
a Uttle square inclosure attached to each, like a Vestibule, in
the Field just above the Plain of Egrin. To the Right of
Hengwm, on a projectuig point of Land, is an old Fortffication
caUed Dinas Corddin, which signffies its being circular. This
perhaps was placed here to defend this extensive Establishment,
whether we consider it as an immense British town or a scene of
Druidical ceremonies. By the Gentleman who was my Cicerone,
M' W. Owen,* who, when a young Man, had hved at Egrin, the
Farm to which this tract was a sheep walk, that the South side;
of the Dingle of Hengwm was at that time covered with stunted
* Afterwards better Icnown as Dr. Wm. Owen Pughe. — Ed.

120 TOURS IN WALES
Birch, much Hazel and Mountain Ash, &c., and was a famous
nutting place, but now, what is most surprizing, not a single
bush appears, the whole being fairly worn away, not grubbed up,
in the course of 30 years, a proof that the climate has in that time
undergone a revolution unfavourable to that species of vegetation ;
and such is the change that you might as soon expect to pick up
a Diamond as a Nut, unless you could gather them from a few
low straggling Furze bushes, the only surviving growth.
Hence by Egrin, that seems to have been a mansion rather
above the pitch of a Farm House, to the great road leading from
Harlech to Barmouth, a place considerably increased within
these few years, having many good houses built there. The most
remarkable part of the place is a cluster of Houses built many
years back, occup5mig the sides of a Uttle Gully in the Mountain,
and rising one above the other to the very summit ; looking like
a Lava of Houses, as if they had been vomited out from the Rock.
Dine here and have a pleasant ride to DolgeUey.
Tuesday. — Left DolgeUey. Mizzling Rain, gentle the greatest
part of the way. Met Comisellor Richards, who very cordiaUy
encountered me. Was much struck with the line of Rocky
Ridge, herissS, and in some parts tremendously projecting, that
overhangs the Pool of the Three Grains, and continues to skirt
the road down to Minfordd. Before you reach this Inn, you see
a most redundant Spring of most briUiant water, issuing from the
base of y'^ Momitain, which soon becomes a considerable stream,
and falls with the increase of several streams pouring ado-wn the
Mountain on the right hand side, having a crest of ragged
Rocks very wild and bristled, into TalyUyn Lake. The
Three Grains Lake does not appear to have any water
running into it, or out of it, unless by violent Rains. At times
it may happen to overflow its banks. The South side of Cader
Idris very grand, especially contrasted -with the downy hUls
opposite forming one side of the Lake of Talyllyn, which is a
beautiful piece of water, weU stored -with Trout, said to be of
good flavour, if taken in AprU and May, afterwards they taste
muddy. They are red, and some pretty large. They leap freely.
Banks gravelly ; good walking for the Angler. Out of this walk
issues the Dysynni, or the soundless River, being in all its course,
as flowing through a tame Level, a River of the tamest Character
we have in this mountainous Region. Arrive at YnisjTnangwyn.
Time enough for Dinner. Met Mr. Owen and the fruiterer and
his wife there.

MERIONETH 121
Wednesday. — Rode to Peniarthissaf. Saw a most pro
digious fine Ilex there, ])erhaps the largest in the kingdom,
larger than that at Ynisymangwyn, though that is a handsomer
tree and more healthy and vigorous. The one at Peniarth
seems to have been the head of that family.
Thursday. — Had the Seat removed to examine the Effigy of
Griffith ap Adda in Towyn Church. He is represented in
Armour of the ring kind, close Headpiece, a swinging blade at
his side and his hand on it. His Shield on his arm. Could not
see low enough down to find out if there was any inscription.
To be left open.
Close to it, nearer the East end, another plain Canopy, having
under it an Effigy of a person in a clerical habit finely executed,
but nothing to lead one to a knowledge of who he was. The
Church very antient. Cruciform. Tower once stood in the middle.
Remains of a rood loft. Nave has small side Aisles, Saxon
Arches, heavy clumsy pillars. The Tower is now at the end.
In the Churchyard they show the Grave of Cadfan the Patron
Saint ; 3 small stones pitched in the Ground mark the Spot.
There was another pretty long upright stone of the same grit as
those at tiie top of Cader Idris, on which there is a very rude
inscription, and the sign of the Cross on two sides. I was not
able to make it out. It is now removed to a small building meant
as a Mausoleum for the late Mrs. Scott but never finished.
Monday, Oct' 10"'. — Left Ynisymangwyn, accompanied by
Mr. Corbet and the Ladies to Aberdovey, where I was shewn his
Copper Works, now at a stand till his trial for Coal be determined
that he may smelt the ore on the Spot. The AVorks occupy
the broken ridge of HUls above the Port and just at the back
of the Houses. A great deal of Copper, ready prepared lies on
the Bank. In many places appear old Caviti'es, supposed to be
the Works of the Romans, and in one place, the highest up,
where there was an appearance of Ore on the Surface, upon
opening they found an old excavation filled up with the Rubbish
that had been taken out of it, wherein were found hard Stones
worn round by the attrition of being used as MaUets to pound
the Ore ; which seems to imply as if the early Inhabitants, prior
to the time of the Romans, had begun their simple operations
there, before they had become acquainted with the use of Metal.
The Port belongs to Mr. Corbet. From Aberdovey to MachynUeth
a new road is begun, which wUl skirt the Estuary all the way tiU

122 TOURS IN WALES
it joins the Pennal Road on a dead Level, and wiU form one of
the finest rides in the Kingdom. It wUl unite with Towyn by
way of the sands. Barmouth.*
Meet Corbett there. His character. Dress pecuUarities.
Attended by HasseU, and J"" Davies. Former a quoter of
Hudibras ; the other a mere ale sucker and quidder of Tobacco ;
Working coal Mines after a perpendicular shaft, which he drove
horizontally. Young Cantab.
An old Cherokee Country Squire ; affected to talk hard ;
carried a hunting pole ; dress old Costume. Gold Bobbin
Waistcoat, and gold lined front ; 3 or 4 Terriers. Talked of the
best days of the Druid Society, when he remembered at y^ Bull
as much Smoke as when the Groves of Mona were fired by the
Romans in the time of the old Druids ; when the old King of
Spain and he, though their Pipes touched, could not see each
other for half an hour. The same with old Sir Hugh at the Friars.
He remembered a young Barrister entering his smoking room
once, with whom he talked, knowing him by his voiqe, through
a cloud for half an hour. Conversation very mellow through
such a medium ; but I suddenly lost him, for he had slunk away
by force of the cloud smoke to the Ladies ; a mere milksop, not
fit for the company of such enlightened beings as we were in the
clouds ; a fellow full of small talk and poetry, famous at handing
round a plate of light cakes, and could write an ode on the head
of a pin.
Talking of Ale — Why, Gents, they have lost the Art of brewing.
I remember the days of the Csesars. You perhaps may not
understand my reference to the Roman Emperors. Which way
are you travelling. Sirs, for if you are going my road towards
Barmouth I can bring you better acquainted -with the history of
the Csesars. He then told us that there was an ancient mansion
house in the neighbourhood, Cors y gedol.
Shared a room where people dranlc it from morning till night.
Possett. Pedigrees of game cocks.
Parry : Face enriched by the use of Cwrw. Was at CoUege
same time as Cha*^ Fox. Active Magistrate.
A man who had kept an E.O. Table and a Cyprian priestess,
buzz went round. He had a fine carriage ; talked of his hounds,
* No date. Inserted here from MS. 2.48. En

MERIONETH 123
his hot-houses, and his manners ; and she affecting piety, talked
of nothing but Hannah More, the Society for the Reformation of
Vice, and the B  p of St. D  s. Talked of Sir W'" Jones.
Doctor Griffiths quoted Horace and Homer and talked of Jesus
CoUege. An Irish fortune hunter. A man of great parts. A strolling
player going to Tremadock races.
Such is the company from an Oikophobia that we submit to
associate with.
So much sand that a man before night becomes a perfect
Hourglass. Commenced my Memoranda for Merionethshire.
July 18"' 1813. — Mounted our horses at J past eleven to go to
Crogen, the seat of Bil Lloyd, Esq'. Pass a grotesque bridge
about 2 nules from the bridge at the End of Bala Lake. Ride
by many turnings under the aftergrowth of fine Oak and Birch,
cloathing high and picturesque hills, whose old Tenants have
yielded to the Ax within these few years, the property of B.
Lloyd. Pass Pale, whose owner has planted largely, chiefly
Larch, and has cultivated apparently very poor barren ground
to the summit of his hills at a great expense. See Llanderfel
the other side of the River, near which there is a new house
buUding by a Mr. Davies, son of the great Stocking Merchant at
Bala, who married one of the young women representatives of
the old paupers who succeeded as next of kin to Jones the Brandy
Merchant, who left Bala without shoe or stocking, and died worth
half a million.
Crogen we feel the approach to for a mile before it is seen, by
the exceUence of its roads, neatness of its fences, managem'
of its woods, fine old and young woods. Stuck on the banks
of the Dee, but on a knoll raised so far above as not to be annoyed
by its overfio-wing. Called ; left card. Mr. Lloyd not within.
In the whole ride take occasion to remark how much the spirit
of planting is gone abroad. Larch everywhere and everywhere
thri-ving. Epitaph in LlaneUtyd Church.
Near this place are interred the remains of Sir Robert Howel Vaughan
of Hengwrt and Nannau Baronet Who died on the 13"" day of Oct' 1792
in the 69"' year of his age. He married Anne Daur and heir to Edw<l
WiUiames of Ystym Colwyn in the Co. of Montgomery and of Melhonydd
in the Co. of Carnarvon Esq' by whom he left issue 3 Sons Sir Robt.

124 tours in wales
WiUiames Vaughan Edward WilUames Vaughan SaUsbury of Rug Esq'
and Griffith Howel Vaughan of Hengwrt Esq' who as a sincer mark of the
affectionate regard they bear to the memory of the best of Fathers have
caused this Monument to be erected. Ann the wife of the said Sir Robt.
died the 4"' day of March 1791 in the 60"' year of her age and was buried
in the Parish Church of Erbistock in the C" of Denbigh. Catherine
Vaughan died 21^' of Jan. 1807 aged 86.
A PiUar of white Marble over the Tablet, broken, just falUng.
Tommen y Mur and Beddau Gwyr Ardudwy.
On Friday 30*" [July, 1813] started early and caUed on Mr. Lloyd
of Cefnfaes, and with him rode to the Station through a byway
which appeared to be part of the old Roman road. Certainly
saw a bit of it where it issued from the Station exactly in the line
it must have taken to have gone to Segontium. Examined the
Tumulus which had been dug into for Stone, and there appeared a
perfect wall, the stones being placed in regular courses, so that
there seems to have been a stone Castelet surmounting the
Tumulus. But the people ha-\^ing found enough of Stone for
their purpose have deserted it, so that the little that is doncwiU
not at all serve to throw Ught on the origin or use of the Tommen.
Pursue the Road towards the other object of our enquiry,
nearly in the Track the Road from the station must have taken
to Dolwyddelan.
Saw Hugh Llwyd of Cynwal's house to the left above bis
pulpit. Pass by a place called Bryn y Saeth, and another called
Bryn y Cyfergyd, and another called Bryn yr Eryr Gronwy,
perhaps the scene of the Conflict where the slaughter happened
to occasion the graves.
Arrive at the Beddau, which Pennant seems totally to mistake,
the upright stones being the bomids of the Cistvaen bedded in a
Carnedd, most of which were plundered of old to make the
Roman road which seems to intersect them. Those that were
not plundered then shew like circles with the upright Cistvaen
stones bare. As to the Circle of 52 feet in Diameter which
Pennant talks of, my fancy put to the rack could not supply.
In my way stop at Pontnewydd, where the river Cynwal
forces its way in an interesting torrent through a deep channel
worn in the rock, growth hanging over it on all sides. To the
left of the Graves at the foot of Mannod Mountain in a deep
hollow, descend to see a small farm house, over the door of
which, cut in Greek, very old, ^Iprjvri rm oIkw Toinw. House
called Hafod Yspitty, a summer dairy perhaps to Yspitty Evan.

MERIONETH 125
Ride to Ynismaengwyn. The opening beyond Cefn y clawdd
very grand, leaving the farm to operate in making out the pass ;
begins to assume a very grand air above the pool of the Three
Grains, and continues to improve in interest at every yard
descending to TalyUyn pass, being narrow, and the boundaries
on each side very precipitous, with serrated summits, but grassy
for a great way upon both sides, but just above and near the
pool of 3 Grains.
What I saw at Mr. Corbet's about 4 years ago just embarked
and perfect sand, now in the greater part was covered with Dutch
Clover. The first appearance of vegetation was a kind of
Samphire or Glasswort here and there, and when they died away,
a little tuft of Grass would appear, which was succeeded by a
thick crop of Dutch Clover over the whole. His Hedges round
the finished fields are of immense breadth, made of turf and sods
dug out of wide Ditches on each side, which serve as permanent
drains. The top is planted with two rows of Willow, Poplar,
and Privet, leaving a sufficient walk between, so that he can see
all his fields and Stock at once, and perfectly dry. He is going
on with it, and will go round the whole in this manner. Coal
found. Cymmer Abbey, or as it is now called Vanor.
The ruins consist of one long building, which had a tower at
West end, and an Entrance. The East End has 3 Lancet
Windows. On South side of Chancel 3 Recesses of wrought stone
for the officiating priests. Near is a plain canopy open to the
garden on So. side, once tenanted most probably with the
founder's Effigy. The Choir seemed to have been entered by
three Arches opening on each side which communicated with
side Aisles. Length 40 of my paces at least. Too much over
grown with Ivy to make a drawing of it. At the dissolution, the
family to whom it was granted converted some of the building
into a Mansion, and from having been the Manor house, it ob
tained the name of Vanor, which was abandoned for Hengwrt.
Nothing of the old house now up but the old hall. There remains
a fine old Avenue of flowering Lime trees. Near farm house of
Pentre a tommen, and here might have been the Castle said to
have been built by the Sons of Uchtryd at Cymmer.
Monday, 26*'' July. — Rode to Llanfachreth Church. Very neat
and sunple. Fine Monument of white Marble to a Mrs. Ann
Nanney. In quest of the Roman Road, which from Pen y

126 TOURS IN WALES
street, where a portion is very visible, must have crossed in its
way to Pennal over Rhyd Uniawn, and so sloping over a low pass
in the Hill to the right of Caerunwch over Gwanas towards
AberUefenny ; and it is still known by name of Sarn Helen.
Glynn.
An ancient house belonging to Miss Ormsby. The most
conect specimen of the kind of architecture in this Country,
about the time of James and Charles the first. It is entered
by a building similar to that of Corsygedol, which appears to
have been the original Pattern ; under which there is a Gateway
large enough for a Coach, with a hatchway for foot passengers.
There are several apartments over. The summit of the Front
ends in Gable end Windows. Casements with labels over. You
come into a hall in which is a staircase ; on one side is a dining
room with a long table filling up one side, curious oak chairs with
carved backs, and two side boards, fine oak ornamented, of a
singular but most convenient construction. On the other side
is a parlour with an Escutcheon on stucco, on which are blazoned
the different Coats they quartered : that of the house being the
Arms of Osbwrn Wyddel. In one corner W. W., and in the
other K. W. over 1638. The lower rooms all flagged with a very
poor sort of flags. Above stairs was a room of a good size,
which might be caUed the drawing Room, hung round -with
family pictures, one said not to be one of the family, with a
Cap on, seemingly of Leopard Skin, holding in his hand something
Uke a Mace. Qu. — who is he ? The chimney piece of wood,
not badly executed. Goat particularly fine. Over it some sort
of Escutcheon of Arms quartered and blazoned as in parlour, but
with a date of 1639. Same initials. In that room an old
Harpsichord, handsome old Japanned Cabinet, and a magnet of
great attraction. Miss Ormsby's own portrait, smaU, sitting ;
rather a pleasing face. The old Mottoes in the walls done over
with modern colouring. The House is kept very clean. The
situation not a bad one, in the bosom of fine woods, with a view
of the Sea and promontory of Llyn, from a raised look-out-
place at the Comer of the Court, and I suppose from an elevation
behind the house, a view of Harlech.
In our way back, charmed with the sudden appearance of
Llyn Tecwyn, which bursts upon the sight at once. A very
peculiar lake, most completely fiUiiig its bason, so as not to
admit of any walking round it, of the most [iUegible] colour,

MERIONETH 127
extremely clear, and seemingly getting very deep soon. On one
side, very precipitous rocky boundaries, but of no great height.
Proceeding to a Gate near the summit of Ascent from the Vale
of Tanybwlch, you come suddenly to a view of only the richest
and the most beautiful part of it, involving so many charming
ingredients as to render it the most unrivalled view of pleasing
Vale scenery in the PrincipaUty.
N.B. — The portrait which stands first in the row clothing the
WaUs in the drawing room of Glynn House has, on the back side
of the frame, this inscription — Mr. Mallory alias Doctor Marshall.
Nannau.
This venerable residence of the chief descendant of Cadwgan
ap Bleddin, Pennant says, is the highest inhabited, mansion
perhaps in the Kingdom. It is situated in an opening formed by
Moel Orthrwm on one side, and a much lower wooded ridge,
bounding Llyn Cynwch, on the other. The present house, with
an exception of some small portions which some of the offices
occupy, was entirely built by the present possessor, and is the
3"* House built since the destruction of Howel Selef's home by
Glynd-wr ; the first built by his immediate descendant, the next,
I presume, on the same site, by Hugh Nanney, Esq' in Queen
Eliz. time, and the present. On the Lake side there are fine old
woods, but on the other, particularly to the East of the Pass
which the House occupies, it is too bare, yet Sir Robert Vaughan's
young growth is likely soon to render that remark unnecessary.
The Gardens are at a good distance from the house, in a sheltered
hollow to the South East of the House, and abound with vege
tables of all sorts, and, at the time we visited it, with all fruits
then in season, viz.. Strawberries, Raspberries, Gooseberries,
Currants, &c.. Cherries. In the Garden stands the celebrated
old Oak, called Ceubren yr EllyU, in which tradition says that
Howel Selef, who took part against Glyndwr, his Cousin, was
inshrined after being put to death by him. It is a most venerable
relic, and yet not so decayed but that it has a few branches
productive of foliage, and within these 5 years, of Acorns, from
which Sir Robert V. shewed me two or three thriving young
plants. Sir Richard employed his pencU on this curious survivor
of the old foresters, and made a charming dra-wuig. Nothing
seems done to turn the situation to account ; everything im
mediately round the house appearing in a state of great neglect.

128 TOURS IN WALES
and very littie done with any taste, which if exerted there would
produce great magnfficence. The fine lake ought to be made
part of the Grounds, and might be charmingly connected with it
by walks or rides through the woods, which might be made to
feather down to its margin, as it does to one side all round.
The view of Cader Idris that breaks on the eye at the bottom of
the lake is very grand. Indeed, that Mountain, seen everywhere,
is a noble object, but here particularly fine, and in numerous
places might be made subservient to the great beauties of Nannau ;
but the Baronet is farming, which he carries on on a great scale,
and with great success, maugre climate and cold ground. The
approach to the house, from the side of Bala, is by a new road of
5 miles, the greatest part of the way through the Baronet's
Woods, and all over his own land for 5 MUes, on so judicious a
level as that scarce any ascent is felt. With a view to the better
managing his very extensive tract of Woodland to the North of
the House, a new road has been made to -wind for several mUes.
Through them above some very picturesque Mountain torrents
that water the Vallies.
At a new bridge, about a mile and a haU from the house, occurs
a most beautiful Waterfall, which meets the eye in the happiest
way, and boasts of the richest accompanyment of rocks and wood,
and tumbles into a very deep fissure, much of the same character
with those chasms at the Devil's Bridge. Out of the hoUows
among these rocks grow the Rododendron, Arbutus, and other
plants, loving bogearth most luxuriantly, and in many places
beautiful tufts of that elegant little plant the Cymbolaria.
Here the road winds through thriving Woods that clothe very
high hills, and is carried on a dead level, sometimes at a frightful
height above the River, but very safely, for some miles, and is
meant to be continued by a most interesting and judicious
course, nearly as far as the celebrated falls on the Cain and the
Mowddach, to terminate in some pavilion or convenient accommo
dation for company to rest, who visit the falls, which we went
to see, but at a time when their Urns were very scantily supplied.
That over the Cain tumbles from a greater height than the other
over the Mowddach, and when full is considered the grandest
cataract, but at all times its neighbour has a more beautiful
character, though shorn much of its charms by the absence of
the Wood lately cut down on one side of the great and deep
bason that receives it. The first time I saw (about 22 years ago)
the other fall it was after a violent flood, and to increase the
horrors of the scene, there was a sheep that the torrent had

MERIONETH 129
swept away suspended in the branches of a tree overhanging the
fall and dangUng in the spray.
Here we parted -with our Cicerone, and took the road toward
Pen y Street, calUng in the way on an old Man 107 or 8, who
walks about, and whom you would not take for 80. Thence by
Rhiwgoch to Tan y bwlch, which is made a most commodious
Inn since we last saw it.
Visited Hariech for the 2'' time, Tuesday 3" Aug* 1813, in
company with a large party from Gwynfryn. You may revisit
Harlech a 100 times and yet find new beauties. The whole
keep a fine model for a castellated Mansion. Being so perfect
and magnificent, it must have been, one would think, with a
view of lodging Edward himself, and not as an appendage to the
Garrison, without such a consideration. Found that what is
called a Font in the chapel over the Gateway is only a Piscina,
having the bason for Holy Water. Miss Ormsby has erected a
new house on the site of the old To-wn Hall, which in my opinion
has deprived the place of one of its chief curiosities and reUcs of
Antiquity — theuncovered shell in which theMember was returned,
a room that retained traces of respectable and antient Masonry,
which naturaUy carried the mind back to former ages, when the
place could boast of an existing corporation and annexed privi
leges ; now aU buried and overlaid -with a heavy pile of true
Merionethshire Architecture.
Particulars of the Great Flood at Llanwchllyn.
Evan the Fisherman gave me the following account of it, he
beuig at that time about 25 years of age. As to the time when
it happened, that is kno-wn by reading the inscribed stone fixed
to the battlement of the new bridge, which succeeded that
which was swept away. The bridge is there said to be built in
1781, and the flood happened in 1780. He said the greater
part of the Village of Llanwchllyn was swept away, and the
Houses that rose in their stead, as weU as a large meeting house,
were raised -with the stones brought do-wn by the flood, after
blasting and breakmg them, for some of them were enormous
masses, and were carried do-wn for a mUe, filUng all the flat in
the ViUage, on the Margin of the River as weU as the Channel of
it. A prodigious quantity, and some of the largest remain to
this day. The Lake of Bala was covered with the wreck of the
different houses, and one person recovered 2 feather beds floating
on the Lake, and one with a looking glass on it as she had left

130 tours in wales
it when she left her house ; and several articles of furniture
were dug out of the sand and Gravel the flood had left. It
lasted for 4 or 5 Hours, but at Bala they had not a drop of rain,
aU flne. The Lake of Bala did not clear for three years, and the
Pike all were destroyed, as weU as a great deal of other fish.
Bala Lake
is a beautiful expanse of water, varies its appearance every half
hour. Early it bas a calm glassy surface, reflecting most dis
tinctly the inverted Landscape. Seen to much, if not most,
advantage, from Sir. R. Hoare's Villa, VachddeiUog, for you have
here a fine reach of it without seeing either end. The Lawn
here terminating in a Hedge, with growth in it conceaUng the
road passing under it, admits just the Lake -without seeing any
of its boughs or beach. Llanyckil Church, among its Yew
trees, and its little Village, a pleasing object. The first ridge
of Hills bounding the lake, not very high, composed of Fields,
meadow pasture, and Corn. The Mountains beyond blue -with
a purple tinge. The principal are the Arennig, exactly facing
VachddeUiog ; on the same side, lower down, the Dduallt ; and
terminating the prospect, the three heads of Cader Idris. Then
from the other side, the Aran, with its broken precipitous Ravine,
and the Cower, but beats fully formed hills from Rhiwlas to the
Vale of Edemion. The Town, though mean and shabby when
you enter it, yet seen from VachddeUiog interspersed -with trees,
where only the tops of the houses are seen, makes a very agree
able object, backed by Rhiwlas and its woods. In short, Bala
Lake, to judge of its beauties, must be seen in every stage of its
infinite variety, from the first purple da-wn to the last flame of
Sunset. I don't agree -with the definition of Pimble Meer as if it was
Pum plwyf Meer, as 5 Parishes border on the Lake. I would
rather look for an entire Saxon origin for it. As Mear is certainly
Saxon, why not Pimble ?
The River that enters it from under CasteU Carn dochan is
called Llafar, that is, the babbUng brook. Another is called
the Lliw, from its having ran with blood after a fierce battle
fought on its banks. Arennig Mountain
rises to the North of the Lake of Bala, and sheweth itself very
boldly over a low part of the intermediate ridge immediately

MERIONETH 131
bounding the lake. It is beautifully shaped, having two summits
(like kidneys) of nearly equal height, and falUng in a ridge
singularly broken to the West. The faU to the East not so
broken. Qusre if the name Arennig may not be translated
kidneyed, with reference to its summits. There is a Lake on
the South side of Arennig.

Roman Road.*
On Wednesday, 3P* July, 1816, set off after an early breakfast
from Nannau, the subUme seat of Sir Rob* Vaughan, in company
with Colonel Vaughan of Rug and Capt" Anwyl, when after riding
circuitously for about 6 miles we came to the pass where we
met the Men who were to furnish us with all the inherited tra
ditional direction they had collected as to the supposed course
of the Roman Road. Through this pass, which exactly pointed
to Rhyd Helen, crossing the Dolgelley River to the Right, and
lea-ying the range of the Robell Mountains to the left. For two
or three miles a road is perceptible, still called Llwybr Helen,
with several pieces of coarse pitching bared ; but I must con
fess only in wet boggy places, where it would have been impossible
to have passed -without such aid ; so that decides nothing. If
any portion of the decided perfect road remained, it would be
very difficult to discover it, as the whole line ran through deep
heath, and ground altered by the revolutions that track of
turbary are Uable to get (and that is the best criterion). There
was no other practicable Une for the road to take from Pen y
Street, a most decided piece of a true raised Roman Road, so as
to go through the fords titled Helen, and take the course of the
trackway bearing that name for some Miles, and lying so as,
in all its bearing, to connect with Pen y Street. Yet I cannot
help thinking but that the finished Road went no farther than
Pen y Street, or rather that they had there begun, the perfect
road working back on Tommen y Mur, or the Station of Mons
Eryri, going over ground that required not so much labour as
the other part, which was to cross rivers, and surmount a variety
of unavoidable difficulties ; and that the course of the Road,
in its whole extent, might have been only chalked out in the
rough, and left to the last, as attended with more labour.
On this account, the part they began to finish was therefore
* From MS. 2.56.— Ed.
k2

132 TOURS IN WALES
called Pen y Street, for by way of almost positive confirmation
of this, and that they worked, finishing back on the Station ;
for though there is as fair level ground for about a few hundred
yards from Pen y Street, had it been continued forward, and
where no possible revolution appears to have taken place to
obliterate the work, had it been carried forward, yet not the
smallest trace of such a continuance is visible, but Pen y Street
either ends or was begun abruptly.
After winding through the trackway distinguished by the name
of Ll-wybr Helen for a few Miles, here and there jumping through
portions of very infirm ground, I came to the brow of the Ascent
from Pont Abergeirw, also called Pont Helen, where, as culti
vated lands took place, all track was lost. But the road here
must have yielded to the natural form of the Country, here a
little precipitous, but still comparatively with what surrounds
it very accessible. I crossed the bridge, and by an easy oblique
ascent on the other side, came to a moory mountain flat, through
which the present Country road passes towards Trawsfynydd,
pointing to Pen y Street, which I soon gain after passing the
River just under it, and a trifling ascent. Leave Porius's monu
ment to the right in a Hayfleld, about 50 pace from the road.
On Friday, 2'' Aug*, in company -with Sir Rich'' Hoare and
Sir Rob* Vaughan, I set off for Rhyd Helen to endeavour to
make out the probable Road that was carried on on the other
side, to unite with the Stations of Caer Sws and Pennal. From
the Ford ascend gently an ancient rough road, carried on obUquely
towards the right, and pointing toward Bwlch Oerddrws, the
pass leading towards Dinas Mowddy from Dolgelley, through
which pass the road must have gone in its way to Caersws, and
branching to the right to Pennal.
Before we approach the Bwlch, for two miles travel over a
road that betrays its origin to be Roman. After falUng into the
Dinas Road it must have taken the course of the present Turn
pike, the Vale being too narrow to admit of any choice for its
course. As to the other branch, in all probabiUty, and in the
opinion of the celebrated Antiquary, Ed. Llwyd, it must have
taken over Wain Llefenny, above Cefn y Clawdd, by Machynlleth
Bridge to Pennal. So much for what relates to Roman Anti
quities. Neither Sir Richard nor I had ever rode from Dolgelley to
Dinas, so that at the Bwlch we entered on quite new ground to
us, and with reference comparatively to any other ground in

MERIONETH 133
Merionethshire quite new. The entrance into the Pass justffies
its characteristic name Bwlch Oerddrws, the Pass of the Cold
Door or Entrance. The Hills are very high, rather precipitous,
verdant to the summit, and of the most velvety surface, charm
ingly involved. For a few miles there is scarce a house to be
seen, the principal Inhabitants are sheep. 'Tis a perfect soUtude
in other respects, but rather cheerful.

134 TOURS IN WALES

Denbighshire and Flintshire.*
From Llanrhaiadr to Llangollen.
Saturday [Aug. 27th, 1808].— Montgomeryshire leaves us soon
after we pass Llanarmon Chapel to the left under the HiU, a
chapel of ease to Llanrhaiadr. After threading a few winding
DeUs, ascend the Hills and ride over a fine Do-wny Sheepwalk for
some miles. Look back and gain a fine view of the Vale about
Pool and to Powis Castle Park. See Rodney's Pillar, but at a
distance ; catch a peep of part of the Vale of Llanarmon to the left.
Then opens the Vale of Ceiriog, which we descend into, foUo-wing
the various bends of the River within sight and hearing of its
water all the way. The sides of the Hills prettily fringed -with
wood or green sheep walk to the top only where two or three fine
rocky points break in on the view forming a charming contrast.
Come to a Bridge that crosses a mountain stream issuing from a
narrow Dingle to the left and falling into the Ceiriog just below
a new Flannel Manufacturing House on the right and close to
the Bridge. Here is a little Village of half a dozen houses. The
Vale here takes a sudden turn and proceeds rather strait till we
come to Llansantfraid ; then the Vale turns to the right and
expands considerably, and is cheerful and prettily cultivated, and
empties itself near Chirk into the Dee. Here we leave the Vale of
Ceiriog and mount a tremendous steep, leaving the Church to our
right, which has been built about 30 years ago. Just at the foot
of the Hill, each side the Ceiriog, there are Quarries of fine blue
Slate. Pass an uninteresting heathy tract. Towards the middle
intersects a Road that goes towards Chirk ; then descend a most
precipitous road and stony to Llangollen. In our ascent have a
fine view of Wynnstay Woods and Park, Castle Dinas Bran and
the Glissegf rocks.
* MS. 2..54,
t Now, usually, Egl-wyseg, which is for Eglwysegl, the name of a to-wnship
of the parish of Llangollen, which had a church so called, now extinct,
but is marked on Saxton's and Speed'.s maps. The name has nothing to
do, as supposed by Edw. Lhuyd, Pennant, and others, with the Eliseg of
the Pillar, but seems to derive from a diminutive of ecclesia — ecclesicula,
a churchlet, or chapel. Cf. caregl, a chalice, from calicvla, dim. of calix.
Du Cange gives ecclesiuncula as dim. — Ed.

DENBIGHSHIRE 135
First, the Church, which consists of a Nave and North Aisle.
Roofed -with Oak curiously wrought ; Arches separating Nave
from Aisle slightly pointed. A handsome Canopy of stone on
North Wall upper end of North Aisle, but no Effigy or monumental
memorial. School House in Churchyard built at Parish expense.
In the Evening, sally out to scale Dinas Bran. Pass the Bridge
of 4 singularly pointed Arches. Fine masonry, perhaps the
grandest Bridge in Wales, over a wide part of the Dee, that here
in Winter covers its rocky bed, and precipitates itself furiously
over it, now shrunk to one small Channel, forming a very deep
Pool running under some overhanging Wych Elm. When we
consider the height of Dinas Bran, we ought to calculate from the
Bridge, for thence our Ascent begins, and the part from the
Bridge to the base of the Hill on which the Castle stands taken in
the account. To get to the top is a formidable task, especially
as the grassy path is so slippery. However, the Evening being
very fine and clear. Sir R. Hoare and I persevered, and got to the
Summit. The Castle is evidently built -within an old British Encampment,
and one of the oldest, with one Agger inclosing a large Area.
foUowing the shape of the conical and insulated Hill on which it
was placed. The Castle occupies a rocky foundation near the
Western Side of the ancient Entrenchment, there being a large
space between it's Eastern extremity and the old Agger skirting
the Eastern summit of the Hill. There was a HoUow Uke a
Moat of a good depth cut through the rock on the East side and
South side of the Castle, and of a competent Breadth, and keeping
the form of the Castle, these sides being more weakly protected
than the others, which are very steep and precipitous. A Moat
it could not be, for there could have been no Water. There
appeared to have been a drawbridge at the East end or a Path,
leading over an Arch into the Castle, as well as an Avenue or
covered way between two Aggers of vast height, formed by what
was dug out of the Ditch. There was a principal Entrance at the
East End through a door way that once, by the bits that remain,
like aU the other apertures, whether Doors or Windows, had aU
cut stone casings richly wrought. Entering the Door, you go
through an arched Passage, into which 3 round holes open from
above, and on the right hand side of this Passage, the remains
of a smaU but rich room lying East and West, perhaps the Chapel
or Justiciary, as it appeared to have two Pointed Arched Niches,
not much recessed, and reaching to the top, as if two benches
might have once been placed there. It seemed, too, to have been

136 TOURS IN WALES
richly groined. To the left of this Entrance a large square room
making the most projecting Eastern Extremity of the Building,
where no Windows are seen. There appears a heap of Rubbish
and Cinders, with many of the stones almost vitrified, proving
beyond a doubt that this part had been destroyed by fire. At the
Western Extremity there are fragments of a rich Canopy of
Freestone round a Window looking out to the North, to the
curious Rocks of Glisseg, over a little narrow Vale at the base of
the Mountain, clearly belonging to some little Oratory or Lady's
private apartment, and the Window might be called the oriel
Window. Hence perhaps Myfanwy Vychan might have looked
out to expect her amorous Bard Howel ap Einion Llygliw.
The whole building was of very substantial and fine masonry,
the Cement equal to the Roman, the Walls very thick. The
Length of the whole building 113 yards, and the Breadth, exclu
sive of Bastions or Projections, between 40 and 50 yards, making
in the whole an immense oblong Square.
M' Pennant derives its name from the river Bran that runs at
it's base or near it, but I find no such river, and I am of opinion
that it must have been first occupied by Bran ap Llyr, and that it
exhibits some of the most antient Masonry in Wales, and is the
most remarkable, taking everything into consideration, of all our
Castellated buildings. Very little history of it may be collected
from our Chronicles.
On the North side of the Castle and on the opposite Hill are the
curious Lime Stone Rocks called Glywseg. They range in 3 or 4
horizontal lines of Strata, appearing quite white.

From Llangollen to Ruthin.
Sunday [Aug. 28th, 1808]. — Ride along the Canal — which,
though it may bring commerce to a Country, yet in a picturesque
point of View disfigures it — till we turn up the Vale of Llan Egwest,
or Valle Crucis, and almost at the entrance of it, in a wider part
of it, too much shut up -with Trees, stands the ruins of that
beautiful Abbey, on the margin of a mountain stream that
rushes in and suppUes a large Pond to the East of the building,
and close to it. This Abbey is undoubtedly as fine a specimen of
Masonry as any Monastick building in Wales can produce. The
Window at the West End is very fine, of the early Gothick like
SaUsbury, but the tracery is going fast to decay. Above the
Window high up, there is a line of Freestone, bearing embossed

DENBIGHSHIRE 137
Letters, but too distant to be read, or, rather, too much worn
out. The East End is much plainer, having three lancet shaped
Windows. The Church was Cruciform. Tower in the centre
supported on four lofty handsome Arches. In the South
Transept there is a Canopy of rich stone work, under which
perhaps the founder might have been buried. It is now filled up
with rubbish almost to the top. The Church is of considerable
length. On the South side there is a handsome Doorway leading
to the Abbot's Apartments, a large building now a Farm house.
All the lower Apartments are groined, and upstairs over a Fire
place there is a cover of a Stone Coffin, with a great deal of
curious tracery on it, and a broken Inscription with Hic Jacet
making part of it. There is over a door leading to an outhouse a
rudely sculptured head of a religious found somewhere in the
ruins. In the Abbot's Buildings there is a Window that once
had very rich tracery, now stopped up, and the principal doorway
Saxon. The whole building was highly finished. It had round it
a handsome stone Cornice, that of the South transept almost
entire. N.B. — In the Chancel grows a very large Ash Tree, whose
Branches fill the space, and, if felled (and it is marked), must I
think fall and demolish that part of the building.
The Vale though sequestered is uncommonly cheerful.
In a Barn a little removed from the ruins, round the Door
there are fragments of cut stone put in from the ruins, and one
remarkable one bearing an embossed Lion passant with a Rose
imder its Belly. About half a Mile farther on, exactly opposite
the 3"' Milestone from Llangollen, to the right in a Field, stands the
Pillar of EUsseg on a square Pedestal surmounted on an elevated
heap Uke a Tumulus. Still pursue this sequestered little Vale,
and before we come to the road that takes the Hill, have a fine
opening to the right, letting in a grand portion of the Glwyseg
Rocks, finely contrasted with the green hUls on each side. The
Road ascending from the Vale, which seems to end here, is, though
managed in the best possible way, prodigiously steep, and
continues so for a mile and a half. Then we come to a Mountain
tract and open an extensive View. See the Arrennig, our old
acquaintances, and have a clear View of Snowdon.
Hence we cross the Ridge that comes direct from Bala towards
Chester, and over which Sir Richard Hoare is very judiciously
of Opinion a Road went from Caergai to Holt, and so to Chester,
as on that line there are names that indicate its course. See at
the edge of this mountainous tract, on the slope of it towards the

138 TOURS IN WALES
Vale, 2 TumuU, and a Uttle farther on Tommen y Rhodwydd,
evidently a Fortification of the Castelet kind, having its Uttle
outwork appendage opposite the directing-post at the cross Road.
Odd parallel lines of Limestone Rock, the Stratum continues to
the right for some way, then it is broken off by a stratum of a
hard purpUsh stone, but the Limestone soon appears again and
continues to make the Boundary each side of the Vale of Clwyd.
From the Descent of the Hill as you enter the Vale of Clwyd, you
have a most charming and extensive View of the whole Vale
from its narrow beginning to its most expanded reach, exhibiting
a most rich and finely wooded prospect, but tame and not
picturesque. Hence, by a charming road, finely shaded with
Hedge Rows, to Ruthin. Here we dined, but could not stay
to see it, and in the Evening, after a most deUghtful ride, to
Denbigh. N.B.— At a place called Kilgwyn saw the finest Tree of that
species of Poplar called the Asp, near the margin of the River
Clywedog, I ever beheld or Sir Richard Hoare, and less formal
too. We likewise on our way, in a field to the left close on the
roadside, saw a Row of Sweet Chesnuts of immense Girth
and of uncommonly old Growth. Mr. W. Owen* supped
with us.

Monday [Aug. 29th, 1808].— After breakfast Sir R^ Hoare
made a drawing from the Window of the Crown Inn of the odd
group of antient and modern buildings, with the Cross in the
Foreground, making an odd Composition, and very difficult as
to perspective. When he had finished, Mr. W. Owen joined us,
whom we called on, and walked up to see the Castle and the View
from it. The entrance of the Castle very striking, a specimen
of fine Masonry. In a Niche over the Gate W^ay, an almost
effaced Statue of Lacy Earl of Lincoln, who is said to have built
it. A Uttle within the Gateway, there was an Octagon room
as a Vestibule to the interior of the Castle, which when all up
was a most stately thing. The prospect from it is extensive and
rich. There was another inclosure surrounding the borough or
privileged part of the town, entered by a Gateway in a large
turreted building, called to this day the Burgess's Tower. Within
this outer Wall was the old Church, and the new Chapel founded,
but never finished, by Leicester, which, since Pennant wrote,
* Later, the well-known Dr. W. Owen Pughe.— Ed.

DENBIGHSHIRE 139
has had an inscription discovered on a corner stone, till within
these few years covered over -with rubbish. Thus —

Fundamentum Christus
Exedfficatio Christiani Compago
Caritas Numen Spiritus Sanctus
R Leycester
1° Sep""^ 1578.

The greatest part of the present Town was a Suburb. A very
fine portion of the outer Wall comes down over the rocky part of
the Hill below Mr. Clough's House and now forms the Wall of his
Garden. At the extreme Corner of it, coming down quite to the
Base of the Rock, and built over it, is a very fine Tower called the
GobUn's Tower, in which is a fine Well that supplied the Garrison.
On the Northern side of the Castle at its Base — this being the
ascending side — a deep earth work. A Fragment of the Castle
Wall most whimsically represents a profile -with a flowing Wig,
like the late King. Quere, who first observed it. From the Meadow
below the Goblin Tower you look up on the Castle to great
advantage. The ruins of the Priory at the bottom of the town
are very inconsiderable, but I have not yet visited them.
Sir Richard and I rode to Llewenney, taking it in his way to
Brynbella. Lord Kirkwall was engaged to dine there, but said
he expected me to take up my Quarters there while I remained in
the neighbourhood. Promised to be with him at Night, being
engaged to dine -with my Friend Mr. Owen. Returned just in
pudding time, but it being 4 o'clock, the whole Evening, the Uttle
of it that was left, was passed in mere eating and drinking, without
an opportunity of taking any mental food. Got to Llewenney
before Lord K. returned, but met my old acquaintance B,e\^
Mr. Anwyl, so that the Hour tiU his Lordship appeared went
off pleasantly.
Heard from the Denbighshire Apothecary that a Stone above
Lord Bagot's, on the Mountain, has been discovered with an
inscription and a date proving it above 800 years old. To
enquire of M' WiUiams, of Cilg-wyn, the Agent. I was told at
Denbigh, by a Parson there called Squire Jones, that the Hall
at Denbigh was built 300 years ago.

140 TOURS IN WALES
Tuesday [Aug. 30th, 1808]. — At Llewenney, a day of confine
ment, it being boisterous and rainy.
Wednesday. — By appointment met Sir R'^ Hoare at Bodfari
to make a search for the Station of Varis, but owing to heavy
showers, which kept us under cover for an hour and more, our
Morning was shortened ; and the Fields were too wet to pursue
our researches on foot, the only effectual way of attaining our
Object. However, we first crossed to the South side of the Uttle
River Aberwile* and followed a narrow winding road, at the base
of the Hill called Moel y Park, and then recrossed the River and
got up to Lord Kirkwall's Warren, proceeding as far as Maes
Mynnan, but could discover nothing like the Station we were in
quest of. There is on the little Stream above mentioned an iron
forge and a WooUen Manufactory, both on Lord Kirkwall's
property. Returned the same way as it threatened rain, re infectd,
and convinced that the Station must have been somewhere under
Bodfari on the bank of the Clwyd. Got home just in time to
dress for Dinner.
Thursday, [Sept. 1st, 1808]. — Appointed to meet Mr. Roberts,
the Parson of Tremeirchion, who had accompanied us yesterday
at Bodfari, to continue our search and to visit Caerwys. We fell
in with each other about eleven, and immediately proceeded by
the same road in the Vale as we took in returning yesterday,
and beyond Maes Mynnan turned to the left, a pretty sharp
ascent, till we came to Caerwys, one of the Contributory Boroughs
to FUnt. It consists of two long ill built streets intersecting each
other at right Angles, with a large Elm, surrounded by a little
Bank, growing in the Centre. It is on a bed of Limestone, and
therefore there is a great lack of Water, the inhabitants being
obUged to send to a great distance for it, an inconvenience alone
that must have prevented it from becoming a great town, which
one at first sight might be tempted to suppose had been in project.
They shew you a large old House which is said to have been the
Town Hall, and there is a record that the Assizes were held there
in the time of Charles ; and there had been a person executed there,
as appears by a warrant to the Sheriff, now in the Possession of
Mr. Pennant. There is another large old house, the greater
part of which they say was the Prison.
I was shewn the Church by Mr. Hughes the Curate. It
consists of a Nave and side Aisle, or rather, a Nave dissected into
two equal parts, with two large Windows, stone tracery, at the
* Properly, the River Chwiler, Anglicised Wheeler. — Ed.

FLINTSHIRE 141
East End. An Arch pointed plain separating the Belfry part.
On the South side of the Chancel a stone Canopy, well wrought,
but void of Effigy. The Pews that surround it belong to Lord
Plymouth by marriage with the heiress of Griffiths of Caerwys Hall.
There was an escutcheon carved on Wood on one of the Pews
charged with 3 Boars' heads, with I : G. 1684. Church dedicated
to Michael the Archangel, and there is a Well below the Town in a
Wood, caUed by the name of the Saint, to which there is great
resort on Easter Day in the morning, and it is said to have mar-
veUous Virtues. No wonder that a Well should be visited and
held in such veneration in a place where Water is so scarce that
it cannot be found unless you dig to an uncommon depth. Old
painted glass in the Windows. M' Lloyd, a clergyman, son of
Blodau, Mr. Pennant's Cicerone and great Assistant, shewed me
some Coins, which were not worth looking at and had no history
annexed to them, and he likewise shewed me a Glain Neidr,
-with something of whiter vitrification, Uke the t-wine of a snake
appearing round it. It was of a whey colour and very Uke Agate.
His Sister said she had an antient Discus, but it could not then be
found. In our way down to Maes Mynnan rode over the edge of a
beautifully wooded Dingle belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn.
It seems Maes Mynnan was occasionally the residence of the
last Llewelyn, and his Palace, if Palace it might be called, was
said to have stood under the Hill exactly opposite to the present
House, just on the Margin of the little stream, and that he had a
large inclosure behind occupying a great tract of the Hills for his
Venison, caUed to this day Moel y Park, and traces of the Fence
that inclosed it may be seen somewhere tmder this Hill. There
was dug up some few years back an earthen Vessel with some
trinkets, and one golden chain was sold at Chester for £140.
Hence by Bodfari again, beneath which Village I observe
several sUght eminences between that and the Clwyd, that I make
no doubt, but what after a little search in that direction, the
Varis might be found, nearly in the Line there is a place called
Hendref, where probably it might be found. Bachygraig,
lately the seat of the Salisburys, was built by Sir R'' Clough,
partner in Trade -with Sir T. Gresham. The House is a most
singular building, built, by the size and form of the Outbuildings,
with a view to future Commerce, the Knight having had it in
contemplation to make the Clwyd navigable to this place. You
ascend into the great Hall by a flight of Steps, on each side a
Portico. The Room is large and Antique, and Fire place large.

142 TOURS IN WALES
Behind this is the Drawing Room, in which there are large case
ment Windows, ornamented with painted Glass of Escutcheons of
Nations, and of private Gentlemen, the Knight's aUiances. His
own Arms occur often with R. C. 1565 ; and in one place I saw the
Arms of his Partner Sir Tho". Gresham, 1559. There is a bow
Window at one end of the Room. Here are hung several old
family Portraits, and one modern and a good painting, of Mrs.
Piozzi's Uncle, the Judge Advocate, in his judicial robes. In
an inner room there is over the Chimney piece a fine portrait of
the Knight by Sir A. Moore, and portraits of the present Mr. and
Mrs. Piozzi. The Chimney piece in the great room, where the
painted Glass is, is very grand, in the old Style. The Knight
was so fond of giving his coat of Arms, that on his outer door,
massy as that of a prison, he has described it by the Nails stuck
over it and over the knocker in the Iron work, 1565. Nay, you
see his Arms in open work in the Vane on the Top of the outbuild
ings. There are several bricks with fine bas reliefs, now stuck the
outside of the Parapet of landing place of Stair in front of the
house, which formerly had their place behind the fireplace in the
great hall. The most uniform and handsomest front is towards
a Garden, or perhaps what was once a bowUng green, to the East.
On the Door that led out this way his Arms are made out by nails,
and date, '^ 1568 ^ ; and over the Door in the stonework, in
raised letters, Richard Clough made this House in the yere of our
Lord God.
In my way back to Llewenney, pass by what was once Denbigh
Green, now enclosed and in cultivation.
It is said that the Bricks of which the Mansion house as well
as the granaries are built, came from HoUand ; but that is very
unlikely, as the Vale beneath the House afforded the very best
materials for making Bricks ; probably he might have had a
Flemish brickmaker, and that accounts for their durabiUty, being
so well made.
Clough was originally a skinner at Denbigh, of low extraction,
and left the Country, for some trifling faux pas, to which cir
cumstance he owed his fortune. N.B. — The Hinges of the great
Shutters very curiously wrought, and had all been plated.
Friday, 2'' Sep', 1808. — Left Llewenney, highly pleased with
the very interesting account Captain Fellowes gave of his distress
and wonderful preservation, in which he shewed himself properly
sensible of his most providential deliverance. Was to have break
fasted at Brynbella, but could not for the rain get in time, so took

FLINTSHIRE 143
that repast in the Vale. Met M' and M'^ Hoare coming from
Brynbella. Was very poUtely received by Mr. and Mrs. Piozzi.
Saw it before 7 years ago. The woods amazingly grown. M' P.
one gouty concretion. M'^ P. as animated as ever — aU Soul.
The situation of the House deUghtful, on an eminence above
the Vale, and yet backed by a ridge of higher ground. Perhaps
no spot in the Kingdom, from one window, can command so
deUcious and so finely varied a prospect, for you see the whole
of the Vale of Clwyd, -with Denbigh rising most magnificently in
the middle of it — St. Asaph, the Promontory of Orme's Head
and the Sea, with, nearer home, many gentlemen's Seats, and
particularly, just under it, the Mansion and fine park of Llanerch.
Took leave of this sweet spot, which involves within doors an
elegant and pleasing suite of Rooms, of the most com
fortable size, and -with every appendage of fashionable Ufe ;
and admirable Gardens abundantly cropped with choice fruit
trees. The Clergyman of the Parish Church of Tremeirchion attended
to shew us his Chnrch, which, though small, contained the Effigy
of Da-vid ddu of Hirathig, under a rich stone Canopy ; and the
Effigy of Sir Roger [Robert] PounderUng, covered with Pews and
trod under foot. It represents a very stout Man in Armour, with
his Shield charged with a Lion rampant. I could have wished to
have had a light, and to have washed his face, that I might see if
he is represented with only one eye. The Chancel Window
has stone tracery and fine painted Glass. On the floor in the
Chancel are several Brass plates to the Memory of the family
of Bachygraig, whose Vault is underneath. In the Churchyard
was a Cross to which they ascribed miraculous powers. Part of
the Shaft Ues broken on the ground, and a stone sculptured to
represent our Saviour's Crucifixion. There is likewise to the
West of the Porch an old tomb stone, now formed into a step of a
ffight of external stairs, and having curious fret work all over it.
Letters worked below.
There are in the churchyard a few old Yew Trees. Hence to
St. Asaph to Dinner. Vale of Clwyd continued.
Saturday [Sept. 3rd, 1808].— The Cathedral of St. Asaph the
least dignified of all the Cathedral Churches in the Kingdom.
It is a cruciform Building. Tower in the Centre, on 4 Pointed
Arches. The Nave divided from the two side Aisles by plain

144 TOURS IN WALES
Columns and pointed Arches. Roof plain, of wood, slated. The
Choir, which is not separated from the Chancel, is a light hand
some building ; the Canopies of the stalls richly wrought in
Wood work, and the East Window of painted Glass, put up by
Subscription about 7 years ago.* DonebyEgginton of Birmingham.
I was a Guest of Sir John WUUams at the time it was opened, and
attended Divine Service at the Cathedral that Sunday. Doctor
Bagot was then Bishop. The principal Scripture piece is sur
rounded by the Escutcheons of Arms of the different Subscribers,
which produces, from the vast mixture of colours to give the
changeful blazonry, a briUiajit effect. There were some so
squeamish, as much to censure, the associating badges of human
pride with a sacred subject ; but I fear if human pride was not a
little flattered we should not have the good works performed
that are.
The Stucco is so badly done that great patches of it have fallen
down, and threatens still more to peel away. Perhaps there may
be in the Stone of the building a saline quality, and if there is
nothing will long adhere to it. I was surprised to see but one
Effigy in the whole Church, and that is of Dafydd ap Owen,t
which was once recumbent, but now is removed from where it
originally stood, and placed erect near one of the Pillars in the
South Aisle. The Bishops of this Diocese seem to have been all
lost to sepulchral pride, being all contented -with plain grave
Stones ; even the great Doctor Isaac Barrow lies buried just
without the West Door, having nothing to commemorate him
but a very perishable sort of plain tomb of Freestone resting on
little pillars, in the ordinary way of burial in this Country. The
North transept is formed into the Bishop's Court, and the south
into the Chapter House, being both separated from the other part
of the Church by a plain wooden skreen. The Tower is very low,
and bears a Clock Dial plate on its North Front towards the
Town, which consists of only one Street, or rather high road, -with
a row of houses each side. The Bishop's palace is entirely shut
* The present East window, of seven lights, is to the memory of
Bp. Carey and his wife. When it was put in, in 1864, the -window of 1800
was presented to Llandegla Church ; but the armorial shields surrounding
the central figure of our Lord's Ascension were transferred to the two
East -windows of the South Transept, or Chapter House. — Ed.
t It is much more probably the effigy of Bp. Anian (Y Brawd Du o
Nannau), the rebuilder of the Cathedral after the Wars of Edward I. It was
formerly recumbent at the East end of the Chancel, and is now erect against
the wall in the South Transept. — Ed.

FLINTSHIRE 145
up -with high Walls and trees, and surrounded with a Wall.
There is a door opening from the Gardens into the Churchyard.
The principal Front faces the Church, but if you except its roof,
you can hardly see it from any part.
I am sorry to say that the Churchyard is kept very slovenly.
Nettles of great height being suffered to grow in a grove under the
Walls of the Church ; and there is an awkward excrescence on
the North Side just to the East of the North transept and joining
it, which is an adit to a Vault belonging to the Bodelwyddan
family, which has a most disgraceful external, being covered with
Nettles. It is not a painted sepulchre. It wears no Mask ; it
almost tells us that there is nothing but rottenness within.
After Dinner mount our Horses and ride to Rhuddlan, on the
North West side of the River under Pengwern, and so over the
Bridge to Rhuddlan. We first examined the Church, which lies
to the West of the main street of the Village. It consists of a
Nave divided by a row of PUlars exactly in the middle. Wooden
roof. Church strewed -with Sedge, and the bottom of every pew ;
a very warm sort of superstratum, and rather clean if changed
often, and not suffered to contract damp and grow putrid. No
Canopies or Effigies ; but saw one Grave stone on the floor of the
Church seemingly ancient, with a sculptured circular tablet at the
broadest end of the Stone, from which is marked a Cross extend
ing to the other ; and one Inscription. More modern tomb stones
in the Churchyard carved after this model. Architecture pointed,
and the East window of the Northern division of the Church,
there being two roofs. A Lancet Window of 3 apertures.
Could get no intelUgence of what was said to be the house
where the ParUament met, and the Statute of Rhuddlan was
made, but that it had been new built on. In going towards the •
Castle, observe an old House, and part of a ruined Wall with a
Gothick door in it. The Castle was a large strong building,
very regular, being a Square, with two Bastions at the North
West Corner, where the principal Entrance was from towards
the River, and two in the opposite Corner, with a corresponding
Gate Way. Each Bastion consisted of 3 Stories ; the two upper
Stories ha-dng fire places. The two other Angles had each one
Bastion only, and a smaU projection in the WaU each side of each
Bastion. It was moated on every side but towards the River,
that being rather steep slope, but too low not to require additional
defence ; it therefore, connecting with the Moat, had a high
Curtain on that side, with a square tower at each end, and a
covered way without the Curtain ascending to the principal

146 TOURS IN WALES
Entrance on that side. There was a high parapet running round
the side of the Moat, -with Eyelet-hole Windows and obUque
funnels from each, through which anything might be voided ;
stuck fast in one of which I observed a round Ball of Stone, such
as frequently were fired out of Canon.
There is a little way to the South East of the Castle a large
Tommen, that appears to have been the antient British Work
to guard that Pass. Returned by a road the Rhuddlan side,
above the Clwyd. See at a distance on the left an immense
Carnedd on the summit of a Hill, and the Pharos beyond it ;
and pass a large Barn having old stone cased Doors and Windows
and much ruins near. Quere if this has not been some religious
House. Ford the Clwyd and get again into the Vale of Elwy,
which brings us to our Inn. As we approach St. Asaph from this
side, it has a consequential and picturesque appearance, the best
point to see it from.
Sunday, Sep' 4 [1808]. — Left St. ,Asaph, and passing Pengwern,
where we called, but did not find Sir Ed. Lloyd at home, arrived
at Bodelwyddan in time to take a walk into the Garden and look
about the place before Dinner. Bodelwyddan stands high, and
has a fine slope towards the flat on Rhuddlan Marsh, to inclose
which there is an Act, which will much improve the prospect
from the Houses looking this way, and be a great accession to the
Wealth of the Country. Sir J"" WilUams, since I had the
pleasure of visiting him 7 years ago, has given a new front to
his House, and almost totaUy altered the inside, by which he will
gain a very handsome dining Parlour, drawing Room, and Library.
The two great Rooms will occupy two projections in front, between
which there is a Colonade, and over it a Balcony, into which a
dressing room of Lady WiUiams opens. Found a Letter from
Panton, who was in hopes to have returned there to dinner, but
did not come ; and the Post brought me another Letter from him
from Do-wning, with a pressing invitation from M' Pennant
to Sir R'' Hoare and me to come there. After passing a pleasant
day, with great good humour, various conversation, and several
curious particulars of Roman Roads and Relicks, communicated
by Mrs. Griffiths of Caerhun, we retired at a sober hour, antici
pating our proposed ramble the following day.
Monday, Sep' 5th [1808]. — This day opened most propitiously,
bringing the glorious news of our defeat of the French in Portugal
and the surrender of Junot, not without a considerable loss of

DENBIGHSHIRE 147
several brave officers, and several hundred Men. After Breakfast
we mounted our Horses, Sir John WilUams our Cicerone, to visit
the Natural Arch in the Rocks of Cefn, &c. The Day began to
lower. We arrived at the Cave, of which Sir Richard Hoare
made a dra-wing below it. This Archway opens through a
projecting point of the Lime Stone ridge at the back of Cefn.
The Entrance on the West side is lofty, but narrow, to that on
the other. The Interior, expanding into another Chamber to
the left, shews a most stupendous and picturesque roof. The
Excavations on each side, within 5 Feet of the bottom, still filled
with a deposit of gravel and sand, evidently the deposit of Waters,
and -with which the Cave to that height once appeared to have been
filled. On each side of the Entrance, I, about 7 years ago, dis
covered strata in the Earth and gravel, of 4 or 5 Inches deep, of
small Bones, such as those of Rats, Squirrels, or some small
Animals ; and, from their form, some that must have belonged
to animals now unknown ; and Quantities of Stags Horns of a great
Age, with marks of their having been sawed and hacked with an
edged tool, and some half burned, with quantities of Charcoal.
But in this visit I found the Strata had been plimdered, and
the Earth washed away ; but still here and there there were
traces of Charcoal ; so that I conceive this to have been a place
of Sacrifice, perhaps a rude temple to some British Deity that
presided o'er the Chace.
Hence, -with showers in our train, which ended in decided hard
rain, we got to the height of Garth allt Maynan ; and on our right
leave a most beautifully wooded dingle, above which was the
House of Catherine of Berain, the noted Husband Killer, whose
portrait is in the possession of M' Hughes of Cymmel, who
purchased the Estate, and was presented with the portrait by the
late M' Fitzmaurice. In these Grounds there is a Walk that
skirts the summit of its woody Hill and comes to a Seat called
the Di-vine Cage, whence you gain a View perhaps not to be
equaUed by any in North Wales. We rode to the back of it,
but o-wing to the rain could not get to the point of View, which
we could only do afoot. We then rode do-wn through a stony
descent to the charming Vale of Wickwear, through beautiful
woods ; ford the Elwy, and gain the fine Meadow embosomed
with Woods, in which stand that redundant Spring caUed
Ffynnon Fair, and ruins of its pretty Chapel. Before we come to
the Chapel we pass two of the finest and most picturesque Wallnut
trees I ever beheld, and weighed do-wn with Fruit. Ascend to
l2

148 TOURS IN WALES
Wickwear ; ride up to the Door ; but the Philosopher* was not
at home, being gone to visit his friend Sir Joseph Bankes. The
rain grew harder. Passed through noble Woods of Oak ; and
by Cefn House, wet and capable of enjoying a good Fire, which
we found in our Chambers, and the comforts of our Host's hos
pitable Board. The family of Plas Newydd,t the Heatons, dined
with us.
Tuesday, Sep' 6th, 1808.— After Breakfast, Sir R'' Hoare and I
mounted our Horses, and first rode for Cymmel Park ;% hearing
the family was not at home ; wishing to see Catherine of Berain's
portrait, but there was a prohibition not to shew the House,
and the portrait in question was locked up in the Library. It is
a handsome house and well situated, and will be much improved
by the intended inclosure of the Marsh, where the Eye, after
passing with pleasure over the fine woody slope of the Park, is
now disgusted to settle on that dreary fiat, which, when waving
with yellow, or verdant with meadows, -will greatly enrich the
prospect. Cymmel Park is pretty ground, but it is narrow, and the finest
part of the Woods belongs to Sir John Williams. In approaching
the House, pass a Fir tree, which has an immense tuft of various
small branches gro-wn into a ball of vast size, suspended by one
small stalk. This globular aggregate of branches displays the
most lovely verdure, while all the other part of the tree (a pretty
large one too) discovers evident marks of disease, stiU vegetating,
and that is all. It would be curious to examine the Branches
minutely, in hopes, by such an examination, to find out the
Cause of the Singular phenomenon.
* By "the PhOosopher " is meant John Lloyd of Wygfair and
Hafodunnos, LL.D., Fellow of the Royal, Antiquarian, and Linnaean
Societies, M.P. for co. Flint, 1796-9; ob. innupt, 1815. He is still
familiarly referred to locally under this sobriquet. The Sale of his
wonderful Library of nearly i0,000 vols, of Books (many early printed —
Caxton, Wynkyn de Worde, Pynson, &c.) and MSS. (some 38, mostly
Welsh), " Philosophical Apparatus," &c., took place at Wygfair on
January 15, 1816, and 12 folio-wing days. Colonel Henry Lloyd
Howard, C.B., has at Wygfair a boxful of letters to "the Philosopher"
from many of his distinguished correspondents — Sir Joseph Banks, Sir Geo.
Shuckburgh, Thos. Pennant (who addresses him as "My dear Pupil"),
Mrs. Piozzi, &c. — Ed.
t Now Plas Heaton. — Ed.
j Now Kinmel Park, the Kllmayl, " Mael's Nook or Comer," of the
Survey of the Honour of Denbigh, 1334. — Ed.

FLINTSHIRE 149
Descend through the Park and fall in with a road pursuing the
edge of the Marsh, to Vaynol, an antient House of high respect-
abiUty in its day, and one of the best models in point of Archi
tecture for its day, the latter end of Queen EUzabeth's reign, there
being, over the Chimney piece in one of the best rooms, the date of
1597 ; on one side an escutcheon of Arms, while on the other one
the embossed Capitals I : L . and IM : L . The escutcheons are
charged, the first. Argent, a che-vron between 3 boars' heads sable,
quartering Vert, a Stag trippant Argent, attired or, impaling
Gules, a Chevron Ermine between 3 Saxons' Heads, quartering
Gules, a Saracen's Head (now borne by Sir Edward Lloyd of Peng
wern) ; at bottom the Initials of A. D. Sir Richard Hoare
made a dra-wing of the House. It had a large appendage of
outhouses, and a handsome stable to the right of the Court Wall,
in the same style of building with the House ; Walled Gardens
and large Orchard. The Stable had a Clock over it. In the
Garden we were she-wn a Stone Coffin without a Lid, formed to
have been placed in a Niche, as only the front was ornamented
with Gothick arched Compartments, each compartment including
an escutcheon. The Cover was gone. I went to see the Field
where it was found. The field is called Caercelyn, having much
hoUy in its hedges ; and the spot shewn bore strong marks of
there having existed an inclosure once in that place, including
the space of half an Acre of land, the middle of which betrays
various inequalities, so that I make no doubt of its having been a
Chapel or some reUgious house. Sir John WUUams has promised
to dig further there.
There was on the edge of the Stone Coffin an Inscription ;
therefore the Lid, when it had one, could not have lapped over it
but must have gone within the sides. Over the Front door you
read Vive ut vivas, and a date of 1725. Did not prosecute our
ride further, but returned. N.B. — In one of the Rooms above
stairs, the Boards of black heart of Oak, not entirely planed but
rendered tolerably even by the Adz.
Wednesday, Sep' 7th [1808].— Parted with Sir Richard Hoare
and felt an awkward blank. Heard from my dear John, some
Counterbalance for the pain of parting with my Friend. Mounted
my Horse. CaUed on Sir Ed. Lloyd. Gone to the Assizes at Mould.
Proceeded to Rhuddlan Abbey,* being told by Sir J. WilUams
* The best accormt of this Dominican Eriary, -with its sculptured and
inscribed monuments, is that in the Journal of the Flintshire Historical
Society, 1914-5 (illustrated). — Ed.

150 TOURS IN WALES
that Grave stones had been dug up there. I found his report
correct. One was the Tomb of an Abbot, his figure being well
figured and with great expression, by Lines only, having his
Mitre on and Crosier in his hand — with an inscription much
effaced round the Rim. I could read Pur Ij Ame . . . Frere
WilUam. Another Stone, with a finely sculptured raised Cross
fieury on it, and round its edge, Hic Jacet ; a name ending in
MS, both the Christian and surnames ; de Briuelton, or some such
name. Another with a cross having a circular part full of rich
sculpture at top, without inscription. Another a very curious
Effigy, with a close dress round the head, whether Armour or a
religious Coif, with several ligatures round the Body, and holding
between its hands something like a hammer, and ha-ving by its
left side something like a weapon of considerable breadth, in a
sheath strait down, I never recollect to have seen any figure so
habited before. The Farmhouse, which consists of what was
once the Abbot's apartments, has a great number of arched doors,
now shut up, as well as -windows. These Buildings make 2 sides
of a small square, and I think I trace the ground of the Cloysters.
Part of the Church still remains near the roadside, but in all the
Hedges round about you perceive fragments of Masonry and
mouldings of Door and Window Casings everywhere. The
above Monuments were dug up to the South of what I presume to
have been part of the Abbey Church, in perhaps its South Aisle.
Thursday [Sept. 8th, 1808]. — Took a ride to Abergele, passing
at the back of Cymmel Park wall, through the opening in which I
catch a fine view of the widest and a very fine part of the Park,
reaching quite to St. George, where Mr. Hughes is building a most
splendid Lodge, to be the principal Entrance into his park on this
side, where none at present exists. The Road beyond St. George
takes a little turn to the right towards Abergele, a small mean
town situated on the edge of that tract of fiat land joining Rhudd
lan Marsh, and which skirts the whole Line of Coast. Of late
years it is become a bathing place, in consequence of the general
Mania prevaUing all over the Kingdom, for qnitting home and
every comfort for 3 Months every Summer, to experience all the
miseries of contracted Apartments and every species of imposi
tion. It must be very inconvenient for Sea bathing, as it is a fuU
Mile from the Sea.
The Church is the principal Object, being a long building
-with a respectable Tower, furnished with the only set of
tuneable BeUs in that Country. The Nave and Chancel are

DENBIGHSHIRE 151
divided by a Row of 7 Arches moderately pointed, resting on
neat slender octagon Pillars. The Nave is about the length of
that at St. Asaph, and about 14 yards broad in the clear. The
two East Windows are long and handsome, with well -wrought
tracery and some painted Glass. There is no old Monument, but
the Walls are well covered with mural marble Tablets to the
memory of the neighbouring Squires and former Vicars. The
Clerk shewed me -without the Porch a large Stone of a blueish
demi siUcious quaUty, totally different from the nature of any
Stone in that part of the Country, which he said for ages had
lain under the poor Box, and had been excommunicated in his
memory ; and he made no doubt but it had been a relick, only that
the tradition respecting it was lost. He shewed me the inscrip
tion on a stone in the Churchyard wall referred to by Pennant,
but it was modern, and set up by the late Vicar, M' Anwyl, but
he gives no authority for what the inscription purports ; there-
tore much to be doubted, and not at all to be reUed on. But he
shewed me in the outside of the WaU a fragment of a Stone
thus inscribed — A LICORP.
He had no story annexed to it. The church is a Vicarage of great
Value, the Bishop being Rector.
Friday, Sep' 9th, 1808. — Rode out in Company with the
Rev"* M' Wiffiams to see the Church of St. George, of which he is
Rector. The church is but a mean building externally, being one
length of double Roof, dissected by a row of 4 Arches, almost
Saxon, on slender octagon piUars. Roof Wood. "Wlien Sir Geo.
Wjmne possessed Cymmel, to which estate the whole parish
almost belonged, he beautified the whole inside by new pewing it,
and making an Altar piece ; marking aU the Pews with his Crest,
a demi Lion Rampant azure charged -with a mullet or ; and erect
ing a new font; so that within few Churches have a more
becoming appearance. M' WiUiams told me that part of the
west end had faUen down a few years ago, and he was surprised
to see such bad masonry in the old WaU, it being composed of
lumpy paving Stones, and earth Mortar, in a Country aU Ume
stone, as if it was so old, that at the time it was built there was
but Uttie or no use made of lime. The Church has no tower. In
the Churchyard there are two or 3 old yew trees, as there are in
almost every Churchyard in North Wales, whereas in S. Wales,
Pembrokeshire particularly, for one Churchyard that has an yew

152 TOURS IN WALES
tree in it, there are ten without. In the Church I was shewn a
most magnificent old Spur, kept as a reUck under the Pulpit, but
the Man who shewed it could give no history of it. It had been
richly gilt, and was of a portentous size. Ingens gloria calcar
habet. The Clerk of Abergele told me that they had in that Church
as reUcks the Sword and Spur of St. George. No Sword was to
be found, and the Man who shewed the Spur went no further back
for an Owner than OUver Cromwell. On the South WaU, on the
Outside, appeared a small oblong stone, shewing itself through the
plaistering, and marked.
Hence we ascend the HiU above the Village, called Park y
Meirch, whose Summit is cro-wned with an antient British Forti
fication of great extent and strength ; on the South west side
protected by three deep Valiums ; on the North side, being
a precipitous side, by a single Agger ; and on the other sides
in proportion to its natural strength or weakness. On this
Eminence there is placed a modern beacon, as being a point
commanding a most extensive View. The prospect was most
charming and clear, both towards the Sea and the Land. Owen
Gwynedd is said to have taken this position whilst the EngUsh
King lay at Rhuddlan prior to their conffict on the Marsh below ;
but allowing the North Wales Prince to have availed himself of
this aerial Camp, we must not ascribe its origin to him, for it
has a character of much earlier antiquity, being one of the earliest
British Works, which generaUy consisted of only one Agger,
augmented by Danes and Saxons, who in their turns may have
taken possession of it, who found it necessary to increase the
strength of the original works, and taught the Britons the
necessity of doing the same.
Descend from this HiU, and rest at M' WilUams's rectorial
House, at its base, a neat little building, in which his Clerk lives.
The Glebe consists only of one little Meadow, of about half an
Acre, and a Garden in Front well sheltered with trees. The
View from the upper Windows is very pleasing. When we had
rested a short time we took to our Horses, and entering by the
new Lodge rode the whole length of Cymmel Park.
Wednesday [Sept. 14th], 1808.— Met my old Friend Panton.
Heard everything was properly settled with M' Pennant, so that
if we met we should not pass each other like Thunder Clouds.
Thursday. — Left Bodelwyddan, and parted with Panton, he
going for Anglesey, and I for Denbigh. Dined with my Friend

DENBIGHSHIRE 153
M' Owen, and after Dinner, the Weather being deUcious, mounted
our horses, to search for the Roman Road. Struck off to Denbigh
to look for Pen y Palmant. Found it, but it appeared to have
reference to a raised causeway, that ran in totally a different
direction to the course the Roman road must have taken. Passed
in front of Plas ne-wydd, a House too much shut up in its enbosom-
ing wood, many of the trees being like wives stag-horned, and
awkwardly towering over the younger and more flourishing
growth. Hence to Gallt vaenan, and entered a shady walk about quarter
of a mile long, with all its turns, and arrive at a Seat (called the
divine Cage) which commands a view of three Vales, as seemingly
separated by the projecting point of a woody Hill preventing our
seeing the whole course of the Elwy ; so that the Vale, which is
seen most beautifully wooded and winding to the right till it
opens into the Vale of St. Asaph, appears to be distinct from the
reach of that part of the Vale to the left ; but that View to the
left is seen in such a way that the River Elwy is seen all at once
in one strait shining line, as far as the eye can go. This certainly
is a rich landskip, but very little of the grand and sublime comes
into it, and 1 think I conld select many finer Views in Wales.
Pass by Henllan, where Church and Steeple are at variance, and
through several pleasing dingles back, by Gwaenynnog, to-
Denbigh. M' Owen concurs with me in thinking that the Roman
road passed by Denbigh, and crossed the Vale below HenUan,
as being the nearest course and the most practicable to Tal y
cafn, whereas if it had gone any other way, it would have had
considerable steeps to have encountered.
Friday [Sept. 16th, 1808]. — Resumed our search after Varis
and the Roman road, and took the Turnpike to Pontryffidd.
Passed by Tyddin y Palmant, but saw nothing there pointedly
indicative of a Roman road. Cross Pontryffidd, and observe a,
beautiful Meadow stretching do-wn from the Mansion House to
the Clwyd, whose banks on the Llewenney side are finely cloathed
with Wood. Rode up to the Fields under and about Bodfari,
traversing them in every direction, but found no traces of the
Station. But on our return, we hailed a farmer in an adjoining
field, who, to satisfy our various Enquiries, said that close by,
in a plantation belonging to Pontruffydd house, he had been
present at the planting of the present trees on the spot, and
in digging the holes to receive them, many Urns were found.
This induced us to look at the spot referred to, and never did a

154 TOURS IN WALES
place strike us as better situated for the situation, being the first
¦gentle eminence that occurs after crossing the Clwyd. And I fan
cied I could, notwithstanding all the changes the spot must have
undergone, as a pleasure ground, garden, and plantation, trace
something of a square, besides the old Road that went through
it formerly ; and it is called by a very remarkable name, Cae yr
orsedd, the Field of the Supreme Council, it ha-ving been a great
place of British Convention before the time of the Romans, as
we were she-wn the Maen Gorsedd, or the great Stone which
stood in the Gorsedd, or the circle of the Council, on which the
sheathed sword was always placed, a token of peace. We were
told by one of the Labourers about the house, who was Uke-wise
present at the digging up the LTrns, that they were red at bottom,
and black in the beUying part, and had covers of the same
manufactory, which clearly proves them Roman. On enquiring
what became of them, he said they were again buried, as they
contained ashes and bones imperfectly burned.
M' Owen has undertaken to try to get permission to search
again for the pottery. Never was a spot so well calculated for
the Station, as it had a fine stream skirting it on the South, and
the Clwyd just below it, and on every side commanded a -wide
view. Turned up a Lane opposite to Hendref, where M' Chambers the
Clergyman lives, and where, from the Name, I supposed there
might have existed some antient Establishment, and probably
there did, as here the Artificers and others might have lived, as
in a suburb out of the Station. Near the House saw a very large
old Oak, entirely stripped of its bark, trunk, and branches, all
but one branch, which was in leaf ; but M' Chambers could not
inform me of anything relative to the subject of my Enquiry.
Got home just time enough for dinner, and after dinner, walked
down to see the remains of the Friary. Very small, being only the
Chapel, now converted into a malt house and granary. It had a
fine East Window, with handsome stone tracery now dark, and
curiously -wrought side Windows of five compartments. Two
staUs of stone Niches South side of Chancel for the officiating
Priests. Over the West Door there is inserted in the WaU a
stone tomb of soft cut stone -with the effigy of a Priest, seemingly
with Hands folded in a praying posture, ill executed, and an
inscription round the Edges. Could see nobody of whom to
enquire where it was taken from. The out houses near appear,
by the doors and windows stopped up, to have been the
Apartments of the Friars.

DENBIGHSHIRE 155
Hence ascend the HUl, to see the present Church of
Denbigh, which, till within these few years, consisted only of a
Nave and Chancel, very neat ; but there has been a North Aisle
added, separated by 5 Saxon arches on Octagon piUars rather
slender, made out of the cut stone taken from the Pillars of the
Skeleton of a Chapel built by Leicester, but never finished. The
Arch dividing Nave from Chancel is lofty and pointed. No
monument of any kind in the Church — this being considered only
as a Chapel to Whitchurch where are all the Interments.
Measured the intended chape,which was about 1 40 Feet long and
about 60 broad. The Inscriptions Pennant mentions all gone.
9 Pillars each side and as many side Windows. I observed here
as in all the other Churches of this Country, that all the Pews
are marked Avith the Crest of the Family to whom the Houses
whose occupiers sit there belong, a Custom that ought to prevail
in every Country to prevent any altercation and law suits
frequently instituted about such rights.
Saturday [Sept. 17th, 1808].— Walked to the Coffee House,
Denbigh. Was fasten'd on in the Street by a most singular
Character of that to-wn, one Squire Jones, who was eager to
communicate the news of Junot's surrender. At the Cofi"ee
House met M' WilUams who owns the Friary I explored yesterday.
He said the Church had been 14 yards longer than it is at present,
which must have made it of an immense length without a break
in the Roof. He said the Earth roimd, where the Cemetery was,
is full of Bones and other sepulchral remains.
After Breakfast, took horse and rode to Llanrhaiadr. The
Church is a plain neat old Building, having a porch and Tower,
a Nave, Chancel, and N. side Aisle running the length
of the Church. Has two handsome East Windows of painted
glass, the one terminating the N. Aisle representing the Stock
of Jesse, the root of the Family tree being fixed in and branchins
through all his descendants. The Colours are very vivid, and the
whole very curious. During the Civil Wars it was taken down and
hid, by which it was cracked and other-wise injured, so that it is
at present much disfigured, by the very various and irregular
seams of lead crossing it in all directions. The other Window was
like-wise of painted Glass, but half hid by the Wainscot behind the
Communion table extending over two thirds of it. The Roof
is of Wood curiously and not inelegantly wrought ; the Nave
separated from the iisle by 4 Arches, almost round.
In the Church are several Monuments, chiefly mural Tablets,

156 TOURS IN WALES
smaU, but there is one to the memory of Humphrey Jones Esq'
worthy of Westminster Abbey, bearing the figure of the deceased
in the dress of the time, with a full curled Cannon, well executed,
which Pennant ridicules amongst the many circumstances of fune-
brial absurdity he there discovered ; but I differ much from him,
for I think there is a much greater absurdity in dressing the Figure
in Masquerade in a Roman Habit, or haK naked. I think Monu
ments such as this in question, if well executed, are very valuable,
as they perpetuate the costume of the time. On the S. side of
Altar a handsome mural Tablet representing an elegant female
figure in white Marble leaning over an Urn, -with this Inscription —
" In memory of Watkin Edwards Wynne of Llwyn Esq', Major
Commandant of the Merionethshire regiment of Militia, who died
of a fever on the publick Service at Dover the 21" day of Octo',
1796, and in the 42'^ year of his Age. He was a Gentleman of a
most re.spectable family, the existent heir male of the ancient
house of Gwydir, of amiable manners and a benevolent disposi
tion, qualities which endeared him to his Friends, and made his
loss the deepest affliction to his Widow, Anna Maria Wynne, of
Llewesog lodge, who inscribed this Marble as a testimony of his
merits and her affection." Another wall tablet on the South
Wall has this elegant inscription — " Here lie the Remains of Miles
John ThelwaU Esq', who dying May 11*'>, 1807, at the early age
of 24, was an instance that a Ufe which lasts but a few years
may be long enough for the exercise of many Virtues.
Blame not a Mother's struggling sigh
Nor ask why tears suffuse her eye,
T'is Nature's Tribute o'er the Bier
Of Youth worth talents buried here."
Just at the Entrance into the Church there is an immense
Chest executed out of a most venerable knotty piece of black
Oak strengthened with Iron bandages on all sides, and having most
venerable Iron Locks, with a Post erect at the Centre and rising
above the Lid, in which hollowed is the poor box ; a most venerable
relick of Antiquity, and perhaps co-eval with the Church. In it
is kept the Church plate, and I suppose the SurpUce, Books, &c.
In the Churchyard, where there is a Vault belonging to the
Wynnes, the Clerk told me that there was found, buried in the
Sand, a box lined with flannel, containing only the head of a Man,
supposed to be that of a Captain Wynne in the time of the Civil
Wars, and who was either beheaded or kiUed at a place called to

DENBIGHSHIRE 157
this day the Captain's Bridge. There were several modern
Welsh Epitaphs.
At the West End of the Cemetery there is a neat building, an
Alms House, erected by the relict of the Man whose Wig, taking
buckle in Parian Stone, so much displeases M' Pennant, bearing
this inscription on its West Front — " Jane, the Widow of Maurice
Jones Esq' of Llanrhaiadr, and Daur. of Sir Walter Bagot of
BUthfield in Staffordshire Esq' by Jane his Wife, Daur. of Charles
SaUsbury of Bachymbid Esq', Erected and Endowed this Alms
house in the year of our Lord 1729."
You pass through the middle of the building. Each Pensioner
has her set of Apartments and a Garden. Passing to the left,
you descend into a deep and narrow Dingle shaded by very lofty
trees of Ash and Wych Elm, &c., through which a small stream
ripples o'er a pebbly and rocky bottom ; which stream is fed
by the Spring of St. Dyfnog at the upper end of the Dingle
arched over, from which the Water used to fall through a Pipe
in the Wall into a Bath, whose bottom was paved -with Marble,
-with a building round it and roofed, but now exhibiting one shape
less ruin, the Bath being choaked up and all the building fallen in
— a most shameful neglect, as this Dingle, connected by a Tunnel
going under the Road with Llanrhaiadr, constitutes the prettiest
part of their Grounds, which, if you except this sequestered Spot,
is all one low dead flat. Several Walks wind on the side of the
Hill above the Uttle riU. The Water seems remarkably soft
to the taste, and possesses an uncommon degree of coldness ;
and has been noted for its Salutary effects.
Proceed to Bach3nnbyd, where the great Chestnuts are, and
then return, but strike out of the Turnpike road, and through
pleasant Lanes enter Denbigh, having a fine view of it all the
way, by the way of High Gate, a part of the town so called.

158 TOURS IN WALES

Carnarvonshire.*

On Monday, July 2"', 1810, to make a tour of Carnarvonshire,
it was my good fortune to set out for that purpose in company
with my learned and valuable Friend Sir Richard Hoare, from
his elegant Villa on the lake of Bala ; and after a dreary ride of
15 Miles over the most uninteresting and unvaried tract in the
whole county of Merioneth, for which nothing could compensate
but the honour and advantage of such a companion, and the
anticipation of the effect to be expected from contrast, I enter the
County which was the object of my excursion at the Village of
Yspitty If an, situate on the River Conway, which here divides
the County of Denbigh from that of Carnarvon, the Inn and a few
other houses being in the latter, but the Church and the greater
part of the population in the former. The River Conway or
Cynwy, eminentice gratia, the chief or monarch water, takes its
rise in a large lake of that name a few mUes to the West of Yspitty,
situate very high in a region of dismal solitude amidst a cheerless
boggy waste, where the sound of its waters is interrupted only by
the discordant screams of a species of black back gulls that during
the breeding season frequent some Uttle Islands it contains, and
are then exceedingly clamorous and fierce. There is an air of
uncommon neatness and cheerfulness in this village, perhaps the
more observable in consequence of the desert we had just passed.
The Church is ancient, but has of late years undergone such
thorough repair that it may almost be said to be rebuilt. The
roof is entirely new, and it ig paved and furnished with decent
pews, the care with which it is kept doing credit to the necessary
revival of the office of rural Dean, too long neglected. The
East Window is large and handsome, and still shews some frag
ments of painted glass in the upper part of it, as I have had occa
sion to remark most of the Churches in North Wales even the
meanest do. It has the aisles one on each side of the chancel.
In the North Aisle, on a projecting ledge of the WaU, are placed
three Alabaster Effigies cumbent, the one of Rhys Vawr ap Mere
dith of the neighbouring house of Plas lolyn, on whom the
* MS. 5.12.

Carnarvonshire' 159
honour of bearing the royal Standard* was conferred, it is said,
after the fall of Sir William Brandon, who gallantly interposed
to check the impetuosity of Richard's attack on the Earl of
Richmond. The next is the figure of Lowry, his wife ; and the
third that of Robert ap Rhys, his son, Cross-bearer and Chaplain
to Cardinal Wolsey, in a clerical habit. The figures are finely
executed, particularly the ecclesiastick, and the Lady whose
headdress, as well as the whole Drapery, are specimens of superior
sculpture. They are at present much mutilated. The male
figures headless, and the Warrior legless too, reduced to a mere
Torso. The latter had a Collar, to which appended something
of a badge not unUke that of the golden fieece, as if he had been
a knight of that Order, unless it might have been to designate
the military rank he bore, or a peculiar mark of honour, probably
established by the new monarch after the sweep of Bosworth
field, at once to commemorate the event, and to confer on those
his faithful adherents who had shared with him the fortune of that
day. If one may judge of the Warrior's dimensions by the pro
portion of the part which remains, and that standard is to be
relied on, he was Rhys Va-wr not on account of his bodily stature,
but the greatness of his fame as a Warrior. Lowry, the Laura
of the Bards of that age, though the elegance of her figure and
gracefulness of her dress might incline to attach every idea of
female deUcacy to her character, it is to be suspected had imbibed
a considerable share of the Amazon to accommodate herself to
the -wild Foray of the times, and was a fit companion for the hardy
chieftain her husband, the Bosworth Standard bearer, for Sir
John Wynne in his memoirs of the house of Gwydyr speaks ¦tof
her as ministring to the rough partisans of the Lancastrian interest,
particularly washing the eyes of Evan ap Robert, his Ancestor,
her Uncle, which were bloodshot by fatigue and long watching,
-with white wine, at the house of Plas lolyn, where Evan ap
Robert, on his return from Chirkland, whither he had gone to
assist the Kyffins against the Trevors, used to sojourn. Robert
ap Rhys their Son was the favourite of Cardinal Wolsey, and fell
with his Master and Patron, who had lavished so many benefices
on him, that as a Pluralist he was a match for the Cardinal himself,
holding at one time the foUowing benefices,! viz., of Llanyfydd,
Llangvrai Dinmael, Llan Elian, Llan S* Fraid in Rhos, Llan-
* According to Rapin, Sir John Cheney took Brandon's place, but was
overthro-wn, so that most probably it was Sir John Cheney that Rhys vawr
succeeded. t Ed. Llwyd MS.

160 TOURS IN WALES
gerniw, Llandrillo in Edeirnion, Llanvaur in Mhenlljm, Llanw
chllyn, Llanbrynmair, Llanjestyn, with several others, which
enabled him to maintain 14 Dairies, and 200 Wild Beasts, horned
Cattle, 180 Wild Mares and Colts, &c, &c. Besides, he had
interest to get his Son when a Minor appointed Abbot of Conway.
Had tradition been silent respecting the original situation of
these figures it is evident that they must have experienced a sub
sequent removal. On the wall of the South Aisle there is a very
singularly shaped mural tablet of Brass, ornamented at bottom
with two large hands united, and some small figures of the
Parents and Children kneeUng, with a legend on one side — To
die to live, and on the other. To live to die, erected to the memory
of a Robert Gethin of Cernioge, A.D. 1598.
This place was an Hospitium once maintained by the Knights
of St. John of Jerusalem, and should therefore be more properly
called Yspitty Jvan, with privilege of sanctuary no doubt co
extensive with the Manor to which it belonged,* and by affording
an asylum for thieves and murderers, even after the suppression
of that religious order, became a source of great evil to the
country. Being considered a district exempt from all juris
dictions, it wa.=! soon peopled by wretches given up to violence and
above all law, " so (as Sir John Wynn expresses himself) that
there was fostered continually a Waspes nest which troubled
the whole country, no spot within 20 Miles being safe from their
incursions and robberies, and what they got within their Umits
was their o-wn. Their numbers at times were above a hundred,
well horsed and well appointed." Their ravages were felt for
years with impunity, till at last extirpated by the persevering
bravery and prudence of Meredith ap Evan, Sir John Wynne's
Grandfather. After a ride such as I have described, though the appetite
could not be supposed to be very fastidious, yet it may be of use
to future travellers, who may chance to take our route, that the
clean little Inn here is capable of furnishing a very comfortable
Viaticum. Leaving Yspitty we cross an angle of Carnarvonshire,
graduaUy descending to a new Bridge of one very lofty Arch and
* Rotulorum Patentium in Turri Londinensi. Secunda Patent' de
Anno 8". Regis Edwardi Tertij. M. 19. " Pro Hospitale lerosl' de
Dolgenwall in Wallia."
Lord Treasurer's Remembrancer's Oflfice. " Spyttye. De Ehzeo
Pryce, Arm., oocasionato ad ostendendum quo Titulo tenet Manerium
& Rectoriam de Spyttye-Dolyngwall in Comitatu Denbigh. Trinitatis
Recorda, 14 Eliz. Rot. 52 "—(MS. 2. 49).

CARNARVONSHIRE 161
of -wide span over the Conway, buUt in 1780. Here we fall into
the great road that leads from Shrewsbury by way of Capel Curig
to Holyhead, continuing on the Denbighshire side to follow the
course of the River, which hereafter having been increased by
several small tribuatary streams assumes a respectable appearance,
but having passed the bridge it is suddenly straiten'd between
Rocks, through which its waters have fretted an intricate and
narrow chaimel, lost in its deep and romantick boundaries,,
finely shagged with tangled growth. The River consequently
is more discovered by the ear than the eye, which rarely is
admitted to a peep of some beautiful little falls, the River when
full being a series of small Cataracts from the many rocky shelves
over which it is precipitated. To the right of the new bridge are
two Mansion houses, Glan Conway, and Rhyd Llanvair, prettily
embosomed in wood of some respectability, and producing a most
pleasing effect, from their situation on the edge of a dreary waste
of considerable extent at their back. And in that portion of
Carnarvonshire just crossed from Yspitty is Pantglas, formerly
the residence of one of the many sons of Rhys Vaur ap Meredith,
from whom were descended the FamiUes of Rhiwlas, Plas
lolyn, Voelas, and Giler, of which latter was that patriotick
character and upright Lawyer, Baron Price, ancestor of the
present Mr. Price of Foxley, in Herefordshire. Of this house of
Pantglas was Captain Richard Vaughan, a poor Knight of Windsor
who in 1600 founded an Almshouse at Yspitty for 6 poor men.
At every step the ride increases in interest, by the boldness and
richness of the features which the surrounding Landscape here
begins to exhibit. A few miles on the Vale takes an abrupt turn,
near another new Bridge over the Conway, which the Shrewsbury
Road in a direction to the left crosses to Capel Curig and deserts
us. At this point the Vale suddenly expands, and a most delight
ful view at once bursts on the sight, presenting too great a temp
tation to the picturesque eye of my feUow-traveller not to resort
to his pencil. Keeping still on the Denbighshire side pursue the
road to Llanrwst. In our progress the Vale continues to widen
and exhibits specimens of rich land, and seemingly the most
judicious husbandry. The projecting HiU of G-wydir, richly clad
with wood, presents a feature seen from all points grand and
picturesque, but here in profile is an object that cannot be suffi
ciently admired, and perhaps con,stitutes the principal if not the
only very striking beauty in the -vicinity of Llanrwst.
Llamwst, being -without the limits of my present tour, it is
not my intention to say more of it than as it is connected with
M

162 TOURS IN WALES
Carnarvonshire, and it is only in its Church, which includes the
Mausoleum of the G-wydir family, that connexion principally
exists. The Church itself is a small plain building consisting, as
usual, of Nave and Chancel, with a stunted wooden steeple ; but
there is a buUding attached to it on the Southside which consti
tutes it one of the most interesting Churches in North Wales.
This seems to have been from a very early time a Chapel appro
priate to the house of Gwydir, as in it is the Monument of Hoel
Coetmor, the former proprietor of that mansion, and most
probably the founder of the Chapel, though it owes its present
elegant exterior, as well as the decorations -within, to Sir Richard
Wynne Bar*., who, by an inscription affixed thereto, built it
after a design, as it is supposed, of Inigo Jones, in 1633.
Though Meredith ap Evan and John his Son have votive tablets
to their memory, yet it is certain that Sir John Wynn, Meredith's
great Grandson, was the first of the family who was interred here,
whose successor undertook to render it worthy of the illustrious
dead it was destined to contain, as it ever after became the
depository of the remains of the famUy of G-wydir whilst inhabited,
as well as of the family of Mostyn, since the death of Mary,
Daughter of Sir John Wynne, and wife of Sir Roger Mostyn,
Bar*., in 1653, to the present time. For the different Monuments
of those famiUes and engraved brasses, as they involve a great deal
of genealogy, I refer my reader to the appendix,* and shaU here
only mention one of the brass tablets thus inscribed : —
To the memory of Dame Sarah Wynne, Wife to the
honoured Sir Richard Wynne of Gwyddir Bar*, and one of
the Daughters of Sir Tho^ Middleton of Chirk Castie Kn*.
Shee departed this Ufe the 16*'' of June, 1671.
Guil : Vaughan sculpsit.
The Lady, a haH length figure, small life, is represented -with
uplifted hands in the attitude of prayer, having an escutcheon of
Arms on each side with this motto, Nee timet nee timeat, first used
by her husband. Above are two Cupids holding a wreath over
her head. The Engraving is in a masterly style, and much
superior to the others, which are of the size of Ufe, and yet neither
of these artists appears to have been of that celebrity as to find a
place in Lord Orford's memorials of Engravers. Robert Vaughan
is there mentioned, and as in the enumeration of his works, a head
* This has not been found. — Ed.

CARNARVONSHIRE 163
of Sir John Wynne occurs. This William probably might have
been his Son, though if we may judge by the comparative merit
of the specimens they have left of the Gwydir f amily,the Son seems
to have had a higher claim on the notice of the noble menaorialist.
The Monument of Hoel Coetmor, coaeval undoubtedly with the
appropriation of the Chapel to the house of Gwydir, bears the
cumbent figure of a man in armour, and if any reliance is to be
placed on monumental sculpture, above the ordinary size, and is
thus inscribed round the Rim, Hic jacet Hoel Coetmor ap Gruff :
Fychan ap Dafyd . . .the word goch, which by his pedigree should
have followed, being effaced. This Warrior o-wned and resided
at Gwydir, whose Son David sold it to Meredith ap Evan, great
grandfather to Sir J. Wynne. This monument a modern tourist,
Mr. Bingley, says was lately removed from under the stairs of
the Church gallery, where it had long lain amidst the Rubbish,
an assumption totally unsupported by any authority, written or
traditional, as to its late supposed removal. We have the
correct coincidence of Mr. Pennant, who describes it in its
present state, near 40 years ago, to disprove it, and by every one
who sees it, it will, I make no doubt, be pronounced to occupy
the place of its first destination. By its side is the Sarcophagus
of Llewelyn ap lorwerth, or the Great, a chest of Granite 4 inches
and a half thick and 8 feet long in the clear, the outside orna
mented with QuatrefoUs in relief, having a ledge to receive the
Ud, which it wants. This venerable relic, the coffin that once
contained the ashes of the princely founder of Conway Abbey,
had at first a place -within its sacred waUs, but was translated
with the monastery to Maynan, and at the dissolution, being
huddled into a stable among the ruins experienced for many years
disgraceful neglect, till Sir Richard Wynn found it and removed it
to grace his new Mausoleum, and reflect honour on the collateral
kindred of the illustrious personage whose remains it once inclosed,
descendants of the same common Ancestor, Owen Gwynedd.
There is a tablet to the memory of a Schoolmaster bearing
an inscription, the oddity of which offers too strong a temptation
not to transcribe it : —
Prope jacet Corpus Griffini Lloyd
de Brynniog oUm Ludimagistri indigni
Llanrustiensis nuper Lectuarii indignioris
et Rectoris indignissimi Doegensis
Sepult : decimo quinto die Martii AD : 1719
Nil de defuncto die, scribe putave maUgne.
m2

164 TOURS IN WALES
Just without the Gwydir Chapel in the Chancel Floor is a large
Slab covered partly by and shut up by other Tombstones, so
that only a small portion of the Rim can be seen, on which is
plainly legible — Civitate — liber — words that cannot fail to excite
a curiosity to get at the whole inscription, and the history of the
dust it covers. The wooden Skreen separating the Nave from
the Chancel, once the facade of a Rood loft and said to have been
brought from the Abbey of Maynan, is of exquisite workmanship
in part of its ornaments, particularly the Frieze of Vine leaves,
very similar to that so much admired specimen in the Uttle
Church of Patricio, near Crickhowel, in Brecknockshire, though
altogether much richer, particularly in the canopied ornaments
over the front of it. If the Doorway leading through it was of
the same, it seems to bespeak the age of Henry the seventh. On
the Nave side, and attached to this Skreen, is the pew once
appropriate to the Gwydir family, loaded -with grotesque decora
tions, having pyramidal piUars at the four corners surmounted
by Animals, viz., a cro-wned Lion, an Eagle -with wings extended,
and a dog gorged -with a rich collar, each holding an Escutcheon
charged, the Gwydir Arms (coat) impaling others. The 4th
pillar has lost its device. I searched and enquired in vain for a
Welsh inscription, which Robert Vaughan the great Antiquary
in a MS. Note of his in my possession refers to as existing in his
time in the Churchyard of Llanrwst, on an ancient tomb, thus
copied by him : — Yma r-wyfi yn gorwedd Madoc ap lorwerth ap
Gwrgeneu pen Ystiwart Arglwydd Cymru — that is. Here I, Madoc
ap lorwerth ap G-wrgeneu, [High Steward] to the Lord of Wales,
lie buried. This Madoc was great grandchild of Rhun, who, to
expiate the Crime of his Father Nevydd Hardd, gave the land on
which the Church was built. On the pine end of a ruinous house
looking into the Cemetery there is a freestone tablet inscribed : —
lO : WINN DE GWYDER FIL. MAURICII MILES
ET BARONETTVS FUNDAVIT A° 1610.
and on a side wall of the same another bearing a lamb and flag
sculptured on it of the same date.
This is part of a range of buildings including an Alms house
for 12 poor Men, each having a separate room, and a School.
The Rectorial tithes of Eglwysfach, now of considerable value,
were appropriated to the maintenance of these charitable insti
tutions. The School had a Master with a stipend of £20 p' Ann :
and an Usher with that of £8, who being in orders was to receive
£5 more for officiating as Chaplain to the Almshouse, and £3 and

CARNARVONSHIRE 165
a mark for doing duty in the Church of Bettws. There was also
an endowment of £4 a year attached to the chapel of Upper
Gwydir for service performed there 4 times in the year, generally
given to the Schoolmaster, who, as weU as the poor pensioners,
were- to be appointed by the representatives of the founder, but
which pious provision, I should suspect from the dilapidated state
of the Almshouse and the other buildings, cannot be applied to
the extent of the pious founder's intention. The Church, though
from M' Pennant's time to this it has been the fashion to dedicate
it to Restitutus, Bishop of London, claims for its real Patron
Saint Grwst, a descendant of Coel Godebog, King of Britain.
Hence I visit Maenan and Ardda, two townships that form a
part of the Comot of Llechwedd Issav, in Carnarvonshire, though
on the North side of the River Conway, which in its whole course
separates that County from Denbighshire, with an exception to
these QuiUets, which, no doubt, at the translation of the abbey
were apportioned as a Grange for its immediate support. The
situation of Maynan, like that of all our monastick buildings, is
low, and the land surrounding it rich, but liable to suffer from the
overflowing of the Conway rendering it unwholesome. There are
few of our reUgious houses that have undergone such a thorough
revolution as this, as not a fragment of the original monastick
pUe meets the eye, or, I beUeve, can be traced, the whole having
been converted into modern edifices. The Abbey of Conway,
afterwards revived in Maynan, destined to be the Mausoleum of
the Princes, and the depository of the records, of N. Wales, as
Strata Florida was for S. Wales, was first founded A.D. 1185 by
Lleweljm ap lorwerth, or, as he is better known by a title he well
merited, Lleweljm the Great, and by a terrier set forth in his
charter most liberally endowed with lands, signal privileges, and
immunities, yet Llewelyn's charter is dated 13 years after. The
founder was interred there, and for near 200 years after it con
tinued the burying place of his successors and family, as well as of
the chief Men of the Country. But Edward the first, when he had
fixed on that spot for his new garrison, from a consideration that
piety and the din of arms was incompatible, and more out of
respect to reUgion than from any dread of the intriguing spirit
of the Monks and having them so near him, he removed them to
a place higher up on the river, and better calculated for a Ufe of
devout seclusion, having purchased lands from Lacy, Earl of
Lincoln, and others, to settle on them in Ueu of what they had
lost, and made every suitable provision for their comfort and
maintenance, confirming all the grants of the founder excepting

166 TOURS IN WALES
what he had reserved to accommodate his court and his vast
miUtary estabUshment, yet for which he had made them an
ample compensation by the exchange. The Abbey was of the
Cistercian order, and was valued at the dissolution, according to
Dugdale, at £162 15% but according to Speed at £179 10 and 10".
It was granted in the 5*'' year of Queen Elizabeth to EUzeus
Wynne Esq' of Bodvean, in whose posterity it has continued, and
is now the property of Lord Newborough.
Return and cross the Conway into Carnarvonshire by the
celebrated bridge said to be the work of Inigo Jones after a design
he borrowed from Italy. Its great Ughtness and symmetry are
generaUy admired, and I had once the pleasure of hearing the late
ingenious Mr. Ravely add his testimony to the justice of such
admiration, and in his company of witnessing that oscillating
property so much talked of, the consequence of the delicacy and
perfection of the structure in all its cohiponent parts. In support
of the supposition that Inigo .Jones was the Architect, there is in
the valuable MS. Collection of my friend Paul Panton Esq' of
Plas Gwyn, in the Isle of Anglesey, a record of the Quarter Sessions
for Denbighshire, that this Bridge, having become ruinous, was
directed to be rebuilt by a letter from the Privy Council in the 9"*
year of Charles the First, Jones being then surveyor of the Board
of Works, according to an estimate which amounted to £1000,
to be levied equally on the Counties of Denbigh and Carnarvon.
That he was of Welsh parentage, who most probably traced them
selves to this part of the principalit}^, there is every reason to
believe,* though Lord Orford goes rather too far in his fancifulness
when he says, " the very cast of his countenance (which certainly
argues no great share of placability) might bespeak his country."
And his name of Inigo, to account for which so much has been
said, some making it Ynir, and others Ignatius, only more vocal,
a transmutation it might have undergone in Italy, may help us
perhaps to find out the spot whence his Parents might have first
migrated to settle in London. Sir John Wynne, in his account
of the House of Gwydir, commemorates one Robert ap Ynco,
Foster Brother of one of his Ancestors, and says that his great
grandfather placed one of his most trusty retainers, WiUiam ap
Robert, most likely a Son of the former, in a tenement of the
township of Gwydir called Pencraig Ynco. Now the transition
"¦ On the iiy-leaf at the beginning of the Carnarvonshire Journal No. 1
(MS. 2.55) there is the follo-sving note : — " The Arms of Inigo Jones on the
Frame of his Portrait were the Arms of Tudor Trevor — pro-ving him to
have been a Welshman." — Ed.

CARNARVONSHIRE 167
from Ynco to Inigo is easy, and may serve to account for the
name and his connexion with this part of Wales, and the honour
able family whose patronage he appears to have had, and by whom
he undoubtedly was employed as an Architect on some occasions.
The present Bridge was built in 1695. Having crossed this
Bridge, -\isit the venerable mansion of Gwydir, a name which
has most wantonly put Etymology to the rack to betray its origin,
which the simple analysis of the word, without torturing a single
letter, or doing greater -Science to it than what the genius of the
language is subject to, at once discloses a compound of Gwy,
Water, and Th, land, more perfectly characteristick of its situation
as liable to frequent inundations from the overflowing of the
Conway, on the banks of which it stands. The House is an
heterogeneous aggregate of that Architecture of a century varying
from the time of Henry the 8**^ to the end of Elizabeth's reign,
varying with every addition, and the different state of the
respective contributors, but the principal part of what is now
seen is of that species of building which marks the reign of
EUzabeth, chiefly of wood and plaister intermixed in patterns,
and here and there a few portions of stone work of a later date.
It is entered by a gateway leading to a large irregular court, the
sides of which are made up of the Mansion House, with its offices.
Stables, and Barns, the latter on a prodigious scale. The first
founder, as his epitaph informs us, was Meredith ap Evan, who
had recently purchased the place from a Son of Hoel Coetmor,
most probably in his latter years, when after he had civilized his
country at home, and gallantly fought in her defence abroad,
that meritorious character sought aud found honourable repose
in this vale ; yet certain it is that it was built after he had quitted
Dolwyddelan and Penanmaen, the latter of which, by a date there
still existing, he rebuilt in 1512. But what part of the structure
may safely be ascribed to him is difficult to say, as the earUest
date we discover is that of his son on one corner of the entrance,
1555, with the initials I.W., who had most Ukely not only altered
and enlarged, but totaUy overlaid the original work with some
new device. There appears no memorial of his son Maurice
ha-ving done much, and it was left for his son Sir John Wynn to
perfect the whole, which he did by the addition of a stone
building over his Grandfather's Gateway, forming a suite of
apartments for himself, a large sitting room with a library within
it, the walls of which still retain many classical and moral mottoes,
appropriate to the design, and where, till they were dispersed and
suffered to perish, the curious papers of the house were deposited.

168 TOURS IN WALES
The principal room, for its day, was done up in the first style of
magnificence, with carved oak wainscotting and deep cornice of
a curious pattern. Over the Chimney is an escutcheon bearing
the family arms raised and blazoned in stone, and the Mottoes of
Nee timet, nee timeat and Vix ea nostra voco ; date, 1597. On
each side are rude figures like supporters, with the name Julius
over the head of one, and Augustus over that of the other.
Within the Court there is a handsome bow--window of stone,
giving light to a staircase which, with much of the other WTOught
materials, some contend come from the Abbey of Maynan, a thing
very unlikely, as so early as the 5th of Elizabeth, we find a grant
of that Abbey made to a different family, though of the same
name. I should therefore rather suppose that much of the
materials might have been removed from Upper Gwydir, where
there can be no doubt the former possessors resided, and con
tributed to such parts as chiefly consist of stonework, the incorpo
ration of which with the other building, the date fixes on Sir John
Wyime. In his time Gwydir was in the zenith of its glory, and
in him had found a herald and historian well quaUfied to blazon
the pride of ancestry and perpetuate the annals of his house,
which he left behind him in a form that does not seem to have
experienced his finishing hand, but notwithstanding involves
in its indigested state many very curious particulars of the Age
they relate to, and are perhaps the only authentick records of
the several characters introduced. To run up his Pedigree,
therefore, to his illustrious Ancestor Owen Gwynedd, Prince of
N. Wales, and in the roll to note such of the names as were
most conspicuous might not be uninteresting were it only to
make us better acquainted with the origin and progress of this
venerable mansion. Sir John Wynne was Son and Heir of
Maurice, Son and Heir of John ap Meredith ap Evan ap Robert ap
Thomas ap Rhodri ap Owen Gwynedd, so that he was eighth in
descent from him. Of his Progenitors before Robert, we have
nothing very distinct to collect from the confused and scanty
documents raked together by Antiquarian industry, but that
they were men of power and had their principal possessions in
Evionydd and Llyn. Robert, however, became the theme
of the Bards, the first of the family, as his descendant and bi
ographer observes, who had been honoured -with that distinction.
Ha-ying espoused the cause of Owen Glyndwr, and being out
lawed, the Bard Rhys goch of Eryri, who celehrated his fame,
dared not address him by name, but as a Hero descended from

CARNARVONSHIRE 169
Griffith ap Cynan, and couched under terms so clearly designating
the person meant, that he could not be mistaken. But his
Outlawry was reversed, and he received a pardon in the 9th year
of Henry the 4th from the Prince of Wales, who stiles himself
Locum tenens metuentissimi nostri regis, &c., dated at Carnarvon,
and became Lessee under the Cro-wn of several valuable holdings,
a proof at last of his power, and how formidable as a foe he could
be, whose friendship it was such an object to conciUate.
His Son and Successor Evan ap Robert had a spirit formed to
suit the turbulence of the times he lived in, when the contention
of the houses of York and Lancaster was at its highest ferment,
and broke out into deadly feuds all over the Kingdom, dissolved
the ties of kindred, and brought War and bloodshed home to every
man's door. The district of Evionydd more particularly, where
Evan ap Robert chiefly resided, was a melancholy instance
of the effects of such factions, and he was made of materials that
were not likely to incUne him to neutrality. He inherited his
Father's valour, and excelled in stature and bodily strength
all his contemporaries, being the tallest man by a head in the
Country, which much exposed him to his enemies, as he became
an ob-vious mark. Besides, he had a ferocious intrepidity that
well assimilated with the Character he felt a necessity of sustain
ing, as head of a disorderly gang of retainers, the Llaivrudd of the
Country, who flocked to his standard, and who never submitted
to any sort of dicipUne, but from a consciousness of such quaUties
in their leader, as no opposition, no violence could appall. He
strenuously adhered to the Lancastrians, and had for his neigh
bours men equaUy powerful and formidable with himself who were
as much attached to the other rose ; so that their lives were one
continued scene of ambuscade and skirmish, engendering an
implacable hatred that often sur-vived to their posterity. Had it
been Evan ap Robert's lot to have fallen on a better age, he did
not want for talent to have done honour to his country. He died
of the plague at his house of Gesselgyvarch in the flower of his
youth, in the 33rd year of his age.
His Son Meredith ap Evan had the good fortune to be fostered
by a respectable freeholder in the neighbourhood of Carnarvon,
a town of great resort in those days, where the King's common
law courts, as well as the Exchequer and Chancery for North
Wales, were then kept, by which means ci-vility and learning
flourished more there than in any other part of it. Here Meredith
was put to School by his Foster Father, and was not only taught to
read and write, but where, as his great grandson and biographer

170 TOURS IN WALES
relates, " he learned the EngUsh tongue and to understand
Latine, a matter of great moment in those dayes, soe as to the
honest man, his foster and second father (for he gave him with
breeding alsoe his inheritance) may be attributed his good
fortune (God's providence always excepted) which sometymes
worketh by secondary meanes, whereof this man was the instru
ment, and there never was a stronger instance than in him of the
wonderful effect of education, imperfect, perhaps, as it might
be suffered to be, which, as the Poet says, always in some degree
' EmolUt mores, nee sinit esse feros ';"
for, instead of, like his Ancestors and even his o-wn Brothers,
who had not his advantages, priding himself upon his bodily
strength and his possessions, because they better enabled him to
act the successful tyrant, give a scope to the most brutal passions,
and to resist those laws which were made to restrain them, his
whole life was laid out in endeavours to restore order, aid the civil
power, and give new nerve to the palsied and vacillating arm of
justice. He at flrst for some time occupied the little property
his foster father had bequeathed him, but as his family increased
his Establishment called for enlargement. He could have wished
to have returned to his kindred and his paternal residence in
Evionydd, but as there the same hereditary feuds subsisting, a
sort of domestick warfare was still carried on, he durst not hazard
the provocation of becoming an actor in such bloody scenes,
therefore he purchased the lease of Dolwyddelan Castle of the
Executors of Sir Ralph Berkinhead, to whom it was granted by
Henry the 7"" ; whither he removed, thinking it much more
honourable to risk his life in extirpating wretches who had
forfeited the protection of the law, with whom the unfrequented
country round his new settlement was infested, than in his own
defence, even should he escape the temptation of acting offensively
among his nearest relations.
During his abode here his time and fortune were employed
to civilize the country and soften the features of the times, and in
a few years he had the satisfaction of enjoying the fruits of his
spirit and laudable exertions by seeing the neighbourhood, which
for many years had been the asylum of such as Crime had driven
from society, become a scene of peace, subordination, and industry.
On the expiration of his term in the Castle, he built the Mansion
of Penanmaen not far distant from it, which he never finaUy
quitted, till after he had accomplished his glorious work of
civilization, and opened a new Era in his Country, when having

CARNARVONSHIRE 171
purchased Gwydir from a descendant of Howel Coytmor, he
removed to the fertile and more accessible vale of Conway and
founded the present mansion, which he placed, in conformity to
the taste of that age, in a low sheltery situation, amidst rich
meadows, to mimster better to that more enlarged hospitality
which was then beginning to be established. Having no enemies
to fear at home, he was caUed to serve his Country in her wars
abroad, for as his Epitaph expresses it, he was Bello Tornatensi
fortissimus, and it is thought that, though he might have
purchased the estate of Gwydir before he went on foreign
service, yet that he did not build or reside there till after
his return. He was succeeded by his Son John, of whom his
Grandson, in his memoirs of the family, has left us no infor
mation, so that for his character we must resort to, and take it
on the credit of, his sepulchral record, by which we learn that he
was just, pious, emulous of his predecessor's virtues, and in every
respect a Son not unworthy of such a Father. By dates appearing
on some parts of the building, he improved on his father's plans,
and made additions to the first structure.
Of his Son Morris we have not even an epitaph to help us to
any account of him, and no date or cypher occurs to induce us to
suppose that the dress of Gwydir was altered or improved in his
time ; and perhaps the most memorable occurrence of his life
might be, his becoming after his Widowhood third husband to
the famous Catherine O'Berain. Yet we are justified in supposing
him a Man of taste and spirit, and one who had mixed with the
world, as we find that he gave his Son a most liberal education,
having brought him up at one of the Inns of Court, and introduced
him into the first circles of society, for he was so far noticed at
Court, as to be found among the earliest list of Baronets, a new
honour sparingly conferred, and consequently sought with
greater avidity. That he profited by such a bringing-up, there
is e-vident proof, as he was not only a scholar, skilled in the
antiquities of his country, and a great collector of such materials
as tended to illustrate them, but a general Patron of learning.
His EstabUshment was princely, and his hospitality of an enormous
Caliber, if we judge from his annual account of the expenditure
of his kitchen, as given in the Appendix.* And here I must beg
leave to differ from the learned Editor of the Gwydir Memoirs,
who asserts that he lived chiefly in retirement, and thinks that
interesting particulars could not be expected from the period he
* We have not come across this. — Ed.

172 TOURS IN WALES
Uved in. That he was a Courtier, and of the first circles, his
very wardrobe, as given by Mr. Pennant in his Appendix,
convinces us, and surely no one will be so hardy as to deny that
the period from 1574, the year of his initiation into pubUck Ufe,
is full of interest or that a man of his attainments and observation
was Ukely to turn it to account. The command which his rank
and great possessions gave him, probably the times that stiU
a tendency to relapse into that lawlesness which his patriotick
Ancestor had devoted his life to curb, required him to exercise
¦with some rigour ; and this might have got him the character
of an oppressor, which doomed him to eternal penance ingulphed
beneath the WaterfaU of Rhaiadr y Wennol, where his boisterous
spirit raves and foams, the Genius of the Cataract. And that a
greater portion of learning, than usually fell to the share of the
Country Gentlemen of his day, should involve him in a charge of
Necromancy, is not to be wondered at, a charge that tradition
has alike attached to the Character of George Owen his Cotem-
porary, a man of high rank and large fortune in Pembrokeshire ;
such was then the low state of learning, and the prevalency of
superstition, that his superior endowments were supposed to be
the effect of some demoniack agency.
Sir John was succeeded in title and estate by his Son Richard,
who at an early time of life became a favourite at Court, for he
was groom of the bedchamber to Prince Charles, and attended
him to Spain, of which he -wrote an account. He was also Treasurer
to the Queen, and died without issue. He was succeeded by his
Brother Sir Owen, and he by his Son Richard, who by a daughter
of the old Royalist, Sir Thomas Middleton of Chirk Castle, left
one daughter Mary, sole heiress of his vast property. She
married Lord Willoughby, first Duke of Ancaster, whose great
granddaughter. Lady WiUoughby de Eresby, married Sir Peter
Burrel, since created a Peer by the title of Lord Gwydir, to whom
in right of his Lady this place that gives name to his Peerage
belongs. The ancient Baronetage fell to Sir John Wynne of
Wynnstay, Grandson of the first Baronet by his 10th Son Henry,
and is now vested by descent in Sir Watkin Williams Wynne.
At the back of the House of Gwydir rises a bold rocky hiU,
called Carreg y Gwalch, the hill of the Falcon, or the crested hiU,
its top being indented like a Cock's comb, magnificently wooded
with the thriving aftermath of a most venerable forest that once
clothed its sides to the very summit, which, from its serrated
character must have exhibited the most beautiful broken outline
imaginable, now disfigured by a strait belt -planted line of grim

CARNARVONSHIRE 173
fir trees. Why -will not men in such cases leave Nature as they
found her, without presuming to spoil her appearance by an over
soUcitude to dress her anew ? On the plain above this lofty
and abrupt hill, which extends for above a mile of the same
character, forming a most majestick feature in the Landscape,
was a spacious Deer park, and a house for the keeper, having noble
timber in it. Though now disparked and denuded, it still boasts
of being an excellent sheep walk, a change perhaps for the better !
But about 30 years ago there existed there one solitary survivor of
the old antlered family ; and Kimmel Park was first stocked with
deer from this so early as 1658. Turn up through the wood to
see Upper Gwydir, seated on an extensive and beautiful level ledge
in the midst of the hill, where it is said. Sir John Wynne built a
summerhouse, or Maison de plaisance, but which I am incUned
to think was but a remnant of the ancient residejice of the original
proprietor, HyTvel Cojrtmor, who shewed infinitely more taste
in the choice of his situation than his more refined successors, at
once commanding and yet well sheltered, which Sir John seemed
to admit, by his reser-raig enough after the plunder of the principal
part of the old structure to inlay modern Gwydir -with, to fit up a
Boudoir for himself, whither, being a man of research and study,
he might be well deUghted to retire.
Here is a plain small chapel with a handsome east window,
another proof of an ancient establishment there, prior to that
below, for if the chapel had been constructed by the new pur
chasers, it is natural to suppose they would have made it part of
the modern plan, and it would have been found an immediate
appendage to it. Besides, I observed a very large old Sweet
Chestnut near the house, by its growth seemingly of a much
earUer date than what the building ascribed to Sir John Wjmne
bears (1604), an infalUble criterion of the prior existence of a
house of some importance on the same spot. This whole region
abounds with minerals, and as a Country Gentleman in a
pamphlet entitled " Impartial thoughts on the intended bridges
over the Conway and the Menai " (as late as 1802) informs us.
" At Gwydir Nant, near the town of Llanrwst, the mines are
worked with considerable spirit and success. The product
is lead. Calamine Pyrites, and smaU quantities of Copper. One
vein was worked near this spot of the thickness of 18 inches.
The lead and Calamine are sent do-wn raw to Conway. Sulphur
of an excellent quaUty is manufactured on the spot, by means of
subUming furnaces erected by Mr. Roe of Macclesfield. A stream
of sulphurick Acid, which might be turned to good account, is

174 TOURS IN WALES
suffered to run to waste. The mines are the property of Lord
Gwydir." But this is not a late discovery ; the existence of this sub
terraneous wealth being known above two Centuries ago, though
our mineralogical knowledge since has enabled us to turn it to
greater advantage, for in a Letter from Sir John Wjome to Lord
Eure, then President of Wales, dated 1607, he " talks of a mineral
that lieth in his land of an earthy and dry substance, being far
more rich than any water can be, which he says is abundant,
nature having brought the substance to perfection without art.
He mentions Copper oar being in the Chinks of the Rock that cover
the mineral in the mine, and great store of brimstone, all lying
within two Bowshots of a navigable River. He likewise talks
of Alum, as the chief thing to be respected, adding that Porphyry,
or speckled marble, white and red, was found in the same hill,
but that none had skill there in the Country to poUsh it."
Leaving Gwydir, I take the Road to Conway, which winds at
the foot of high hiUs, a continuation of the same range that backs
¦Gwydir, all covered with young plantations to the summit,
but with rather too great a proportion of the Scotch fir. The
Larch seems to suit the Soil best, and outshoots every other species
of tree. The Mountain Boundary of the Vale, on this side the
River, is of a much bolder character than that which Umits it on
the Denbighshire side, and at intervals the line is broken by
precipitous Ravines, through which pour down in torrent faUs
several tributary streams to swell the state of the Conway.
Pass Trefrhiw, a -viUage, whose name like that of G-wydir, has
put Etymology to the rack for no good reason, fancifully con
sidering it an appendage to the field of slaughter, the Gwaedtyr,
and therefore meriting the name of Trefbriw, a hospital for ihe
wounded, 'Vfiie.iea.s, like its neighbour, to suit which it was tortured,
without varying a single letter composing the word, nothing can
characterize the name better than the name it bears Trefrhiw, a
Vill on the acclivity of a hill, for so our great lexicographer Doctor
Davies interprets Rhitv — Collis ascensus. Beneath this village
the Conway begins to be navigable, and two or three smaU
wharfs, with vessels lying alongside of them, covered with slates
and Umestone, and a lime kiln, seemingly of an exceUent con.struc-
tion, mark the commencement of the quality of its commerce.
The Vale now expands into a dead flat, soon assumes a moory
appearance, and a little lower down degenerates into perfect
turbary. The overflowing of the Conway, like that of the NUe,
most wonderfully fertiUzes the Lands it inimdates, and contributes

CARNARVONSHIRE 175
to the production of most abundant crops, more than repairing
the loss they may sustain by sudden casualties from autumnal
floods, or a longer submersion from rainy seasons. Beyond the
dreary space disfigured by Turbary the River takes a bend
inclining to the Denbighshire side, and the vale almost contracts
itseK to the Channel of the Estuary, before it arrives at Caer
Rhun. Perhaps no River in so short a run ever received a more
copious tribute of waters than this does, particularly from
Trefrhiw to its Embouchure, and as the traveller who crosses
them cannot fail to be struck with the beauty of the scenery
round them, furnishing everywhere choice studies for the pencil,
to enumerate them, and trace their origin and descent may not
be uninteresting.
In the dryest season, being fed by a succession of lakes on the
heights they issue from, their Urns are not scantily supplied, but
after fioods run over with irresistible violence. The first that
washes the Village of Trefrhiw has its source in Llyn Crafnant
and Llyn Geryonidd, and as its fall is less precipitous, is much
the tamest. The next has its source in Llyn Cawlyd, and
formerly ministered to the working of a Grist and a fulUng mill
now in decay. The third, caUed PorthUwyd River, which has its
rise in Llyn Eigiau, improves in interest, and tumbling down the
craggy ledges of the Alltwyllt forms a series of Cataracts of no
unpleasing character, were they not so destitute of that material
accompaniment, wood. The Noise of these faUs, it is said, is
heard to FUntshire. Credat Judceus, non ego. The fourth is
Talybont River that rises in the Lakes of Dulyn and MelynUyn,
and after forcing itself through a precipitous rocky chasm under
overarching wood, exhibiting Uttle falls here and there crossed
by Alpine bridges, and everywhere affording the richest studies
for the pencil, works Talybont MiU without a Dam, in the dryest
season, and after a course of 3 Miles unites with the Conwy. It
passes Garth Maelog, once the residence of Maelog Cr-wm, one of
the 15 Tribes of N. Wales, famous for a Memorable battle fought
there between Idwal Y-wrch and the Saxons. The fifth has its
source in the great hoUow of Bwlch y ddaufaen, and ere it leaves
the Mountains which it drains, is swoln to a boisterous river,
whose winter fury has been found to be resistless, sweeping away
everything that may chance to obstruct its torrent, as it did the
County Bridge of Pont y Vottyg-wyn in 1799, with many other
ravages in its way to the Conwy, which it reaches after a run of
3 miles. The 6th, of a much tamer character than the former,
springs from an upland region called Ffrith y Ddaufrwd, to the

176 TOURS IN WALES
East of Talyfan, and after taking a Northern direction through
the Parish of Llangel3m[in] passes through that of G}rffin, whose
name it takes, and discharges itself after a course of 5 Miles into
the Conway, close under its Castle walls.
I cannot take my leave of the Conway -without remarking that a
fresh water Muscle found in it contains pearls of which there have
been specimens of such extraordinary value that many have
been sold for £10 ; and there is a tradition that Sir John Wynne
presented one of an uncommonly large size to Queen Elizabeth,
which was honoured with a place in the imperial Crown of
Britain, where it still keeps its rank. The Muscles producing
these pearls are the Mya Margaritifera, and the Musculus niger,
according to Doctor Lyster, omnium crassissimd et ponderosis-
simd testa. But on the Sands at the Mouth of the estuary of the
Conwy, there is a great fishery carried on of the Sea Muscle, for
the small pearls they involve, which are sold at so much an ounce,
to make pearl dentifrice and a fucus for the fair who deal in
artificial faces.
In this Vale between Avon Dolgarreg and PorthU-wyd
River, a little above, stands the house called Ardda'r Mjmach,
where Doctor Thomas WUUams was born, who is better known
by his additions of Sir and of Trefrhiw. He was son of
William ap Thomas ap Gronwy, of the tribe of Ednowain Bendew
(fat head), one of the 15, and Catherine, natural daughter of
Meredith ap Evan, the founder of Gwydir, and this alliance
perhaps, more than the vicinity of his residence, or his literary
fame, accounts for his connexion with Sir John Wynne, the
Maecenas of his day. He was a man of general learning, but
devoted most of his studies to the cultivation of the language, the
genealogy, and antiquities of his country, having left behind
him in MS. a large collection entitled, " The primitive pedigrees
of aU Wales," begun 1578, enlarged 1585, and still more in 1589,
a Book of Proverbs Latin and Welsh, and a Dictionary Latin and
Welsh, compiled, as he says in a letter to Sir John Wynne, with so
great labour that he frequently did not Imow what day of the
week it was, and which was the principal material groundwork
of the Dictionary afterwards published by Doctor Davies ; not
that he was inattentive to such studies as assimilated better with
his profession of a physician, for I have in his o-wn hand writing a
medical treatise, with his prescriptions in most common cases, an
herbal, and a tract on the connexion between the planets and
human disorders, then superstitiously relied on, and the fragment
of a system of rhetorick. He was reported to have been a

CARNARVONSHIRE 177
Papist, and believed to have been privy to the Gunpowder plot,
as he came to Sir John Wynne most earnestly dissuading him
from attending ParUament that Session, being un-wilUng that
his Patron should suffer.
I now come to Caer Rhun, the ancient Cono-vium of the Romans,
a word latinized from the British name of the River Cynwy, on
whose banks it was placed, but which again yielded to a British
appellative, when Rhun, the son of Maelg-wn Gwynedd, who,
about the middle of the 6th Century, fixing on this spot for his
residence, converted the remains of the Roman work into a new
City. In old law writings it is therefore caUed the King's to-wn
of the Castle, a name it obtained from involving, first the Roman,
and afterwards the fortress of the Welsh Prince. Probably
Rhun nUght have begun his works in the lifetime of his Father,
to be near him, who certainly had his Castle at Tal y Cafn,
where there is to this day a large Tommen called Castell Maelg-wn
and Bryn y CasteU, and the tract from Caer Rhun to Tal y Cafn
still retains the Name of Tref Maelg-wn Gwynedd. To Mrs.
Griffiths' poUte attention I owe that, for the second time, I have
had an opportunity of examining -without hurry the whole
of this very interesting [station] and her Museum of relics of
antiquities at different times discovered there, in which there yfaa
a great variety of Roman pottery of every kind, one lamp in high
preservation, and a Roman shield very entire, with the strong
leather that lined it not perfectly destroyed. In shape it was
round, and formed of several concentrick circles, studded with
brass loiobs and a projecting Umbo of Iron. It was 15 Inches
in Diameter, and the projection of the Umbo 5 inches, but I refer
my reader to the accompanying plate* from the correct hand of
that ingenious artist Mr. Buckler, not presuming to suppose
that anything I could say, by way of additional description to
iUustrate the subject, would convey so clear an idea of it as his
pencil is capable of communicating. Among other relics I saw
one of those ribbed glass beads, usually found in places of Roman
sepulture, which was one of many strung together on some
thing like Catgut, but which fell to pieces as soon as it was
taken up.
Some of the pottery had a stamped mark of mallim and
PATRici on the bottom of the Vase. The immediate station was
a rectangular square, each side measuring about 459 feet. If
you except that part of the Area occupied by the parish church
and its cemetery, filUng the South east angle, very little of the
* This has not been found. — Ed. N

178 TOURS IN WALES
station has been materially disturbed, and remains with its agger
now visible, but in the whole circuit round it, for a considerable
way, on every side, wherever the plough and spade have been
used, every spot has been found to teem with evidence of its former
possessors. Leaving the Station, I follow the Road issuing from it which
kept an oblique direction from the South to the East, till it
comes to that part of the River called the Arw, a rocky shallow
running across, on which the Romans fixed their subaqueous
Causeway, serving them for a bridge to pass into Denbighshire,
and continue their itinerary to their next station of Varis, where
to this day part of the road may be traced. From a gentle eleva
tion to the left above this, catch a view of the artificial mound
near Tal y Cafn ferry, called Castell Maelgwn or Bryn y Castell,
most probably the work of the British Monarch to defend that
pass, and turning, look up the River, then at full tide, like a great
lake almost filling the Valley, with a sloop at that moment to-wing
down, and producing altogether the finest possible effect. To this
favoured site it has long being in the contemplation of the famUy
of Caer Rhun to have removed the old Mansion, so placed at
present as to command not the least view. On my return, visit
Erwgaer, or the Acre of the Camp, a gentle rising above the river,
with a slope towards the water, where some few years back the
late Rev. Hugh Griffiths, whose early loss his Country wUl have
just cause to regret, in companj^ with that judicious and inde
fatigable antiquary Mr. Lysons laid bare a large range of build
ings, a Roman villa, consisting of several apartments, Baths, and
a Hypocaust, floored with brick and resting on stunted pillars of a
reddish stone, such as Chester Cathedral is built of, but of which an
accurate and minute account has been given in the "Archaiology,"
[Vol. xvi, p. 127], rendering it unnecessary for me to presume to
get more into detail on the subject.
From the detached pieces of Clay found there, the vast quanti
ties of broken pottery, and a great deal almost perfect, Mr.
Griffiths was inclined to suppose that here might have been a
Pottery and the residence of the Master of the work. A field
to the N. West of the station, called to this day Cae'r prydd coch.
The field of the red earth, probably suppUed the materials for this
manufactory and their Bricks. But Uttle yet has been done
towards discovering what remains lie underground, all that has
been attempted being very superficial. Observe -within the Agger
of the old station a square pit, in which had been found a skeleton.
The aperture seemed as if it had been a Roman bath, so that I

CARNARVONSHIRE 179
suspect the Skeleton may be ascribed to the age of Rhun, after he
had raised his new City on the Ruins of old Cono-vium. There
can be no doubt but that the Romans had here a large and
important estabUshment, being a central post between Deva and
Segontium, and most commodiously situated on a navigable
river, for the exportation of the mineral wealth which the
adjacent mountains abounded with, and is e-vident had not
escaped their knowledge. A little above Erwgaer stands the
Parish Church, occupying one Angle of the actual station.* In
the Churchyard are three very large Yew trees, all sound and
-vigorous, particularly the one to the South of the Entrance porch,
which measured in girth 17 feet, the spread of its branches f ornung
a circle whose Diameter cannot be less than 60 Feet, the largest
tree of the kind I ever saw in so healthy and flourishing a state,
with no hoUow or other visible symptoms of decay, notwith
standing it is probable that it may be coeval with Rhun's new
work, and was of his consecration, who is reputed to have been
the founder of the Church. Such is the acknowledged slowness
of that tree to arrive at maturity, and its longevity after.
From the South West corner of the Station, in a line towards
the present mansion of Caer Rhun, issued the continuance of that
road I noticed as pointing to Rhyd Arw, now marked by a hollow
foss for some distance, the pitching having been long since dug
up for the stone, but in the lane oppo.site to the entrance gate to
the house occurs a very perfect bit, which progressively in small
portions may be traced through the intricacies of ground, much
intersected by enclosures and otherwise altered by agricultural
cultivation. It seems to have taken its course much to the left
of the present great road to Bwlch y ddaufaen, a narrow pass
between the moimtains marked by two Meini hirion, from which
it takes its name, and whither our search was directed in search
of it. And just where the modern road, which from its first
desertion of the Roman strait line it set out with, took a con
siderable bend to the right, reunited with the ancient Une, we
recognize and hail its reappearance on the accUvity of the hiU,
near a slender Maen hir, marking its easy oblique ascent from
the Vale. This stone was probably raised, as was usual in such
cases, as a directory to the travellers from below, as being more
* Additional particulars from his Journal, MS. 2.55 :— "The Church is
a plain building, longer than the country churches in general, and occupies
nearly the South East angle of the Station. It has rather a curious little
covering externally for its bell, and over theWest door a stone tablet inserted
in the wall, with a crucifix embossed on it, and white-washed over." — Ed.
n2

180 TOURS IN WALES
slender and less rude, it materially differs from the true British
Maen hir, one of which, at no very great distance to the right,
presents itself, as does a very perfect Cromlech. From the above
supposed Directory the ancient raised ridge runs for a consider
able parallel to the present road, close within the stone fence
that bounds it on the left hand, and occupies half of it. Hence it
passes the pine end of a slated cottage bmlt on it, at the entrance
into the heathy mountain tract of Bwlch y Ddaufaen, and near an
old Finger (but now fingerless) post, where its raised character,
by the revolutions the ground there has undergone, everywhere
cut up by the present various trackways, is lost, but by the
judicious and accurate eyes of my fellow traveller is so satis
factorily made out, in a most perfect state that we rode on it in
preference for above a mile, till we come to the two columnar
stones that give name to the pass ; and there again o-wing to the
ground being broken into a variety of intersecting trackways,
gulUes formed by waters, scattered fragments of loose stones, and
deep heath, we are again at fault, but again recover occasional
traces in ground not so overgro-wn and disfigured, till at last
the Vestiges, from a number of cooperating causes, the nature
of the soil in many places degenerating into Turbary, deviation
from the true bearings, or a total loss of reckoning, became so
faint and undetermined as to leave us in doubt of the course it
must have taken to the level of the Sea Coast, which we are
satisfied it must have passed in its way to Segontium ; and from
a critical examination of all the different practicable openings
that present themselves to the lowlands from this height, I am
in the concurrence of my judicious companion's opinion that it
could not have followed the most direct line, which we were at
first disposed to give it, towards Aber, owing to the precipitous
ness of the descent into, and the narro-wness of that Vale, -with
difficulty in some places admitting of a sheep track above the
bed of the torrent stream that fills the other part, bnt must have
inclined, to the right, a variation they were obliged frequently to
submit to in this Country, where nature opposed so many diffi
culties to the continuance of the Strait, which they otherwise
invariably kept. And in that case, from the hollow crossed by
a mountain stream, where we seemed fairly to lose it, it must
have taken a sUght incUnation to the right, and followed a stone
fence, beginning at that point to where it terminates on the
Summit of the hiU, whose rising is as gentle as is its decU-vity
on the other side ; and here -without too great a stretch of fancy
was clearly perceived a broader road than ordinary, though

CARNARVONSHIRE 181
grassed over, and in many places -with a little swell, yet, by being
the constant Mountain trackway for the neighbouring farms to
their sheep and turbary, much beaten, and not so highly raised as
it would have been in flatter and less dry ground ; and this
appearance may be followed for some way, sloping gently towards
the Vale with scarce any de-viation from the first change of its
course at the deep ra-vine, where we lost decisive traces of it quite
to Aber, at the base of the hill above Gorddinog, by this means
making for that point, without any material intervention of
precipice, river, or other impediment, and by a much less distance.
Its reappearance at, and continuation from, Aber will be noticed in
its due place.
Here the Eye the least accustomed to British Antiquities
finds constant exercise, and suppUes abundant food for reflec
tion ; and on my return from this successful Roman road
hunt, I had leisure to examine relics of far greater antiquity,
which on every side soUcited my attention in form of Cistvaen,
Maenhir, Gorsedd, and Druid Circle, and every shape of ancient
habitation, which begin to appear soon after you emerge from the
narrow Vale ending at Aber. But the most remarkable was a
Cistvaen of rather a singular construction. It stood in the centre
of a Circle composed of three concentrick rows of Stone, two of
which were placed upright, ha-ving a space between each, -vyith
an outer agger of loose stones encompassing the whole.
A Uttle beyond this at the commencement of the decU-vity
to the Vale, come to a large circle enclosed with a dry stone
waU, that is, two lines of large stones filled with smaller, 51 yards
in diameter, at one end of which, towards the east, there is a
raised circular platform, having in the centre a raised squarish
block of white spar, the Maen Gorsedd, undoubtedly. It had
Ukewise a smaller circle -within the greater. This enclosure
had no foss round it, as those calculated for defence are observed
to have, and therefore appears to have been for purposes con
nected -with reUgion and poUty, the scene of Druid rites, foederal
conventions or judicial proceedings, and must have been one of
their principal Gorseddau from its size, there being few larger,
if so large, of that character. The whole region round bore
evident marks of numerous population. At Bwlch y ddaufaen,
the very pass of the two Meini Hirion it takes its name from,
which no doubt occupied the same site they now do when the
usurping Eagles were unfurled between them, to record events
long prior to the Roman Annals, a cluster of British remains again
occurs, enclosures of different dimensions, but all much smaUer

182 TOURS IN WALES
than that described above, with several Carneddau, one or two of
which the present road cuts in its course. The Maen hir to the
right is about 9 feet above ground, very massive, of a triquetrous
form, and ending rather pointedly ; the one to the left is smaUer,
and bedded in an old Carnedd.
Proceeding a little further, I come to an enclosure of an oval
shape, whose Area was marked with upright stones, most of
them removed, but yet a sufficient number left to ascertain the
figure, having in the centre a circular hollow set round with
stones canted on their edges, like a sort of Cistvaen plundered of
its Udstone. Turn to the right, and at the foot of the mountain
take the path that brings me to one, perhaps, of the most ancient
British posts in the Kingdom, generally kno-wn by the name of
Penygaer, though some call it Caer hen, or the old fortification,
to distinguish it from the Roman work of Conovium, which was
subsequent. Mr. Pennant refers to it by the name of Pencaer
Helen, but on what authority I know not. This curious fortress,
I beUeve an unique, occupies the summit of an insular hiU, rising
midway from the accUvity above the Vale of Conway. The only
practicable approach is on the West side ; and on the gently
incUned plane, in the most accessible part before you reach the
liqes of circumvallation, are stones about a foot or 15 Inches,
with sharpish triangular points, pitched on end in all directions,
forming a wide belt which must have proved inaccessible to
Cavalry and very difficult and hazardous to foot, for if repulsed
or surprized, they would have found themselves so entangled as
to prevent flight, and would have become an easy prey to the
enemy. A Uttle to the West of this Cheveux de /rise, just where
one of the Ramparts terminates, near the steep and most inacces
sible side of the hill, is an opening that takes a slanting course
between the outer and the inner Vallum, both composed of
stones -without cement, and the latter of stupendous dimensions,
its base of immense stones, through which is the principal
entrance into the Camp, which occupies the whole apex of the hiU,
a very large Area. On the side you enter, it is fortified by two
fines of rampart, and then on the side looking do-wn the Vale,
by three, being there more accessible, and by another large tract
without the lines herissee, with stones as on the other side, this
Cheveux de Frise being continued but for a very small space
beyond the lines, the greater steepness of the ground there
rendering such additional defence unnecessary. The triple Une
of circumvallation only extends to that part of the hiU to the

CARNARVONSHIRE 183
South, where it is most inaccessible, and there and all round till
it meets the entrance it has only one sUght agger of stones,
following the form of the hill. Within the Area are several
irregular excavations of different sizes, and some marked by
stones pitched round, the site of the habitations of those who
composed the garrison, and at the end towards the Valley there is
a small rising which had been covered by a Carnedd, though most
of the stones have been removed, yet not so thoroughly plundered,
I think, as to have disturbed the Interment it covered. From
this eminence nothing can exceed the beauty and extent of the
prospect, and it is not only the Antiquary that may be here
gratified, but it furnishes a rich treat for the picturesque eye of the
Painter and the Poet.
On the South is a wide range of lofty Mountains, among
which Carnedd Llewelyn bears preeminence, and Moel Siabod
rears its lofty head more distantly in the horizon. Eastward, the
Vale of Conway, -with its river and shining meanders, distinctly
seen, opens to Llanrwst. To the North we have a more magni
ficent and diversified bird's eye view of the Vale, with its river,
here winding through a more expanded channel and richer cul
tivation, the distant hiUs of Denbighshire, and promontory of
Creuddin, with the sea beyond it, the whole forming a striking
contrast with the dreary tract on the West leading towards Aber.
Our descent being by a remarkably winding road, we could not
hurry, and therefore had an opportunity of enjoying the prospect
through aU its gradations. The approach to Conway on this
side, from the first moment it catches the eye for better than a
mUe before you enter it, is perhaps the most striking object in
all Wales, if not in the Kingdom, and for a view of the to-wn and
its embattled walls alone, certainly the best. As to the Castle,
how is it possible to see it in any unpleasing point of view, the
whole conveying to us the Idea of a magnificence worthy of the
splendour of Edward's reign, the taste of the Monarch, and the
importance he attached to his new Conquest ?

Wednesday, July 4th, 1810.* — Came to Pont y pair near
Bettws. A very curious Bridge, consisting of one large Arch
over the main stream, and 4 others resting on an almost horizontal
ledge of Rock for the purpose of taking off the water that overtops
* MS. 2.55. The portion of the author's Journal covering July 2-3,
1810 (Yspytty Ifan — Llanrwst) has been incorporated by him in his copy
for press above (MS. 5.12), and is here left out. — Ed.

184 TOURS IN WALES
them in high floods. Saw the River to great advantage, swoUen
by the rain of a night and a day, which forms a beautiful fall
just above the bridge, which, grouped with the Bridge, woods,
cottages on its banks, makes a beautiful View, and which Sir R.
Hoare made the subject of his pencil. The Bridge was formerly
so narrow that a wheeled Carriage could not pass it. You see the
addition plainly by looking on the two centre arches being built
not on the same level.
Could not get the Clerk to see the Church— Uves a great way off.
A peasant shewed me how the Sarn Helen went, which his father
remembered a narrow causeway. It crossed a ford which shews
pavement to this day under water. It must have led from
Tommen y Mur to Conovium. Hear of bricks having been
found at a place up the Vale of Llug-wy near to Bryn y GeveUie,
not much out of the road we take to Capel Curig. I enquired of
a Mr. Price who lives at Hendre Skethin, who directed me to it,
who said he had seen many of the Bricks, and begged I would
aUght. He shewed me a curious portrait of Thomas Price, a
noted Poet in the time of James the 1^*, Son of Dr. ElUs Price,
called Doctor Coch, from his red hair, which his son inherited.
His dress was gaudy, and he wore earrings. In one corner,
A.D. 1594.
As we proceed, turn out of this road to see Rhaiadr y Wennol,
but here the whole river is a kind of gradual fall or torrent. On
the hedge of a moory meadow a little farther on, where I thought
I perceived something like an agger with rounded angles round
a spongy ground, I picked up a bit of Roman brick, which -wiU
induce me to search for a station or Villa near. Farther on, pass
a single arched bridge where the river forms a very picturesque
torrent fall ; and hence to Capel Curig. A large Inn on the banks
of a lake or lakes called Llyniau 'r Capel, because they are near
the Uttle chapel dedicated to S*. Curig, a Chapel of Ease to
Llandegai. Thursday, July 5**^. — ^Wrote all the morning, my companions
being on a fishing party to the Lakes. After Dinner walked by the
margin of the Lakes, and saw the gentlemen angling. Snowdon
shewing to great advantage, being involved in partial wreaths of
mist of singular colour and forms, but the highest point was
hid. Friday, July 6*'\— After Breakfast we set off. Sir Richard
Hoare to the first very romantick bridge, where the River, rushing

CARNARVONSHIRE 185
through a rough Bed of Rock, forms a grand Cascade, to make
dra-wings ; and I to -visit the Church at Bettws. In my way
caUed on the Rev'^. Mr. Pryce of Hendre Rhys Gethin, who very
kindly mounted his horse, and accompanied me to enquire for
the Key of the Church ; but the clerk, who lives two miles off,
was not at home, and had not left it in any of the houses of the
¦viUage. So the -visit to the Church was obliged to be deferred.
I then returned to explore the spot below Bryn y GeveiUe, where,
from bricks having been found there, I concluded there might
have been a Roman Station, but on examining it, I found it
e-vidently the Ruins of a Roman Villa of no small extent, the
Rubbish displaying every species of Brick and some fine Roman
Cement, -with some small stunted pillars of -wrought stone, such
as I had seen at Caerhun ; and I make no doubt but that this
was the residence of the Officer who superintended the Iron
Works and Forges -sphere all their tools and implements were
fabricated ; there being to this day all over the hills leading to
this Bryn y Geveiliau scoria of Iron found.
Almost opposite to this place there is a place called Nant yr
Haiarn, where they had Iron works, and to which an old Road
led from towards Gwydir, probably connecting it -with Conovium.
The Roman Villa is situate on a fine fiat on the banks of the River
Llug-wy below a bend of it, where there appear the remains of an
immense stone fence, with many pieces of brick interspersed, as
if it was coeval -with the Roman establishment there, to prevent
the ravage of this mountain stream. The popular notion is that
here stood some monastick building, an error from an early time
inherited, and which has ascribed the reUcks of Roman works in
many places of Wales to the early Christian Era, the knowledge
of Roman Stations, Roads, Villas, and other edifices of that
people not having been cultivated till of late years.
Mr. Pryce told me that he possesses not only Hendre Rhys
Gethin, but Vedw deg, the residence, as is said, of the Chieftain
buried at Bettws. From this Rhys Gethin was descended
Howel ap Evan, a noted outlaw, who had taken possession of
Dol-wyddelan Castle, before Meredydd ap Evan removed his
habitation from Ei-vionydd to that place.
Above the high rock that forms one of the boundaries of Rhaiadr
y Wennol, in whose whirUng abyss the vulgar think the spirit of
Sir J"". Wynne is ingulphed, stands Glan Llugwy, formerly the
residence of a respectable branch of the G-wydir family, noted for
its hospitaUty and the theme of the bards, now a farm house.
It is stiU surrounded by fine young wood, the descendants of that

186 TOURS IN WALES
noble forest that Leland says in his time clothed the sides of its
hills and the neighbouring ones nearer Capel Curig. Catch a
fine view in my way of Moel Siabod, a finely insulated mountain,
with a small lake on the side of it.
Saturday, July 7*''. — Rainy morning. At the pen busy till
dinner. After dinner, about 5 o'clock, took our horses and rode
as far as the Roman Villa, which Sir Richard Hoare pronounced
to be a decided one. Having thoroughly explored that spot, we
ascended the HUl, the other side of the Road to Bryn y GeveiUe ;
but if anything existed there of ancient Works it is all swept
away ; and from the female peasants I saw there there was no
getting traditional, or any other sort of information, as I have
found them very suspicious of Enquiry from persons above their
o-wn condition, and are never disposed to be communicative, for
fear of committing themselves by their answers.
July lO***, 1810. — Mounted our horses soon after Breakfast,
and take the Bangor Road, foUo-wing the Llugwy, whose course —
till it comes to a Bridge of one arch just above Capel Curig, which
you cross, where it falls over great stones and broken Rock
overhung -with wood in a very wild, picturesque maimer — is rather
tame, through level, moory meadows and turbary, from the
discharge of the torrent stream that issues from Ffynnon
Llugwy, a lake under the summit of Carnau Llewelyn. After
riding about two miles, the wildest mountain scenery that has
yet occurred to me presented itself — of the wildest character,
and broken into a great diversity of shapes. Lea-ving the Trivan
to be explored on a future occasion, we proceeded towards the
Ogwen Lake — after a ride under the Trivan, and a lava of
fragments of every shape and size, which, seen from aU sides, is
a most Majestic feature. In our approach to it, it appears with
its summit broken into 3 points, on the centre of which the eye
must remark two columnar stones, which at a distance look Uke
two men. It is said there was a third upright stone, now over
turned, or rather turned over the summit and fallen to the bottom ;
and that these three stones gave name to the mountain — Trivaen
— and that a chieftain was buried there, to commemorate which
interment the stones were erected. But I learn from the peasants
of the neighbourhood, who have seen them often, that they are
natural Rocks, and had that appearance from the first, probably
giving a name to the mountain. The strata of the mountain
are perpendicular, and therefore each insulated column might
occur, the intervening materials of a softer quality being washed

CARNARVONSHIRE 187
and worn away. The Peasant told me he had often stepped
from one to the other ; but I fear he bounces.
Opposite to the Trivan lava on the other side of the little
riU that enters the Ogwen, in a hollow amongst the mountains,
is a smaU lake called Ffjmnon Lloer. Now the whole of the
Ogwen opens on the sight, encircled -with a majestick amphi
theatre of mountains. The road -winds beautifully along its
margin, and the end where it disembogues its stream is fuU of
fragments of Rock ; beyond which for a hundred yards the
stream it discharges runs tamely, coming to a point, and then
over immense masses of Rock through a tunnel, over which
the road goes, precipitates itself in a grand cataract, and over a
ledge a little below into another.
Passing the bridge, turn out of the road to a projecting rocky
point, one of the grand boundaries of the torrent stream, which I
would recommend every Draftsman particularly, and every
traveller in general, to digress into, as it presents a scene un
rivalled, and that strikes with more surprise than I ever felt in
any other place, as on one side you have the impetuous torrent
falls of the Ogwen -with its girdle of formidable mountains, and
on the other the River, after clearing its rocky shelves, seen
meandering in a smooth level through a tract of meadows,
whose boundaries unUke what we past, the region of sterility, are
clad -with verdure almost to their Summits ; whilst the Vista
closes -with a distant view of Anglesey. I may chaUenge all
Wales to produce such a wild aggregate of romantick mountain
features and other bold ingredients of Landscape as this, where
you owe so much to the effect of contrast ; and which, I think,
has not been done justice to and sufficiently pressed on notice.
To increase the Cataract formed by the discharge of the Ogwen,
a wild mountain torrent from Cwm Idwal meets it, as it issues
from the Tunnel, adding much to its vehemence.
From Capel Curig.
July 11th, 1810.— Beyond the first bridge on the Llugwy from
Capel Curig, about half a mile, turn to the right, and keep
ascending a winding road, leaving Moel Siabod to the right,
tiU we come to the summit of the HiU, and cross an extensive
flat tract of Turbary, the narrow road continumg to keep a -winding
course tiU we sink into the Vale of the Lleder just at Dolwyddelan.
After entering the wide Moor on the summit of the hiU, we first
ascended on a Uttle more elevated, and consequently, a drier

188 TOURS IN WALES
spot. Observe a few Carneddau and TumuU, which we pass on
the left. Before we sunk into the Vale, a Farmer we met, on
being asked the direction of Sam Elen, pointed it out to us
ascending the hill of C-wm Penanmaen on the other side of the
Vale, and the narrow pass which brought us to Dol-wyddelan
must have been part of it, the path being so narrow that it could
not have gone any other way. It went, he said, across that wide
turbary, and by Vedwdeg down to Bettws.
Keep to the right to visit Dolvryddelan Castle, about a mile
from the Church. It stands on an insulated rocky knoll, preci
pitous partly by art on the rocky side towards the River, and
protected by a deep artificial Foss on the other. It consisted of
two oblong portions of building ; in the clear 18 feet by 30. One,
as to its shell, being entire, but uncovered ; the other having one
wall up lying parallel with the other. They had formerly been
connected by a curtain, enclosing an Area in the part now most.
entire, I should suppose the principal apartments — the doorways
and windows exhibiting cut stone not to be seen in the other.
The Masonry is strong, having good mortar, and the walls on an
average are near two yards thick. I should not suspect it to be
of another date than lorwerth Drwyndwn. There is a chimney
in each tower, and there were two stories. The curtain connect
ing the two towers seemed to follow the form of the knoll. Near
it to the Westward is a considerable Slate Quarry of Lord
Gwydir's, who owns the whole parish.
Return to the village, pass the Church and crossing a Bridge
of 3 arches, by an easy ascent enter the singular Vale of Penan
maen, which is a perfect punch bowl, inaccessible but on the side
that I entered it. Rode to the old house of Penanmaen, a long
mean building, with but little mortar in it, and small windows.
In the Room said to have been the Parlour, or principal Room,
even to this day observe old oak beams curiously carved. Some
old people remember the Walls covered with oak wainscot of
the same era. I presume this house, said to have been built
by Meredydd ap Evan (temp. Hen. 7**^), an ancestor of the great
Sir John Wynne of Gwydir, was the house he inhabited after he
left Eivionydd, and before he got possession of Dolwyddelan
Castle, for had he possessed the Castle on his quitting his native
residence, he would hardly have built Penanmaen. Carreg y
big is a small triangular Rock, terminating in a sharp point
almost opposite this old house, the other side of the mountain
torrent that roars through its rocky channel between.
The stony road entering this Vale, as well as the other in

CARNARVONSHIRE 189
the narrow descent into the Vale of the Lleder, must be the Sarn
Elen, as there was no room for it to take another course ; ,and
there can be no doubt but that the ancient pitching exists in
several places, as the cast stones are bedded so deep that they
cannot be supposed to be of a later date.
The Castle before Meredydd ap Evan became possessed of it
was inhabited by a noted outlaw, Howel ap Evan ap Rees
Gethin, which Rees Gethin Uved at a place called Hendre Rhys
Gethin, near the spot where the Rev''. Mr. Pryce Uves, not far
from Pont y Pair. Antiquaries are not decided as to the ety
mology of Dolwyddelan. One will have it to be from the Saint
G-wyddelan, to whom the Church is said to be dedicated, though
the name of such a Saint is not found amongst our copious
Catalogue of Saints. Others will make it out to be the Wood
(Gwydd) of Elen. But such is the veneration that this Lady,
supposed to be the wife of the Emperor Maximus, has obtained
in Wales, that every great and good work is attributed to her,
and at such different periods, that she must, to have accomplished
them all, have lived for 3 centuries. There is every reason to
suppose that the Romans, after travelling from Tommen y Mur,
the station doubtedly of Mons Eryri, over such difficult and
mountainous roads, on sinking into this rich little sheltered Vale,
would have wished for repose ; and therefore it is likely they had
here a station or some resting place. Why may not the name,
then, be Gwaith y lleng, the Work of the Legion ? AU pubUck
works being accompUshed by the legionary soldiers ; and to confirm
this they shew you to this day Ffynnon Elen, that is, their Spring,
by which, the tradition says, they used to dine. Probably the
spring that served the station.
Turn do-wn the Vale of Lleder to get into the Vale of Conway.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of this sequestered spot, bounded
on both sides by very picturesque mountains, in some places
broken and bare, in others charmingly clothed with wood, whilst
the River preserves a most charming character through its whole
course. Pass an old house called Bryn y Voel, where it is said,
when Penanmaen was vacated, some of the Gwydir family Uved.
They say Coats of Arms still exist in the house. Leave a curious
Alpine Bridge to the right over a part of the River which forms a
pretty cataract. From hence the Vale, instead of widening as is
usual near its temoination, contracts, and is more woody, before it
is lost in the Conway. The Lleder has a bridge over it which
leads to Penmachno. A new bridge a few hundred yards below
the Junction of the Lleder with the Conway ; and over the

190 TOURS IN WALES
latter take the Capel Curig road by Bettws to our Inn. Moel
Siabod looks to the greatest advantage in our approach to it up
this Vale.
Thursday, July 12"^, 1810. — The Elements stiU unfavourable.
Came to a resolution froni the complexion of the mountains, and
particularly Snowdon, the Cradle of the Storms, to keep house,
that drawing and -writing might go on. Yet we were almost
tempted to abandon our resolutions and push out, such tempting
gleams took place every ten minutes ; and, as it turned out, the
Morning might have been well employed out of doors. However,
after dinner we mounted our horses in Sunshine, to visit the
Cataract called Rhaiadr y Wennol, which we mistook in our way
up the Vale, when we came from Llanrwst. The Cascade is
nearer Capel Curig, just under that mass of perpendicular Rock
which bounds the River to the North near Glanllugwy — a fine
feature as far as Rock covered with moss, Uchens, and tangled
growth from all its ledges and fissures can make it. The opposite
boundary, though not near so bold as this, is very wild and well
wooded, and the whole channel is here so straitened and obstructed
by Rocky ledges, one above the other, that the Llug-wy, pouring
its whole torrent over them, forms here a cataract of so noble a
character that Sir Richard Hoare, speaking comparatively,
pronounces it the finest he has seen in Wales, not only as to the
form of the fall, but like-wise the accompaniments, which are in
no part defective, look on which side you may ; and yet there
are separate parts of the fall, which you catch from other places
that you cannot, from the only accessible part for a more general
View, see, that present a great diminution of its grandeur. But it
is a pity that the Hon''''^ Mr. Burrell, whose property it is on both
sides, does not make a proper path by which to obtain a more
perfect view of it, and by that means estabUsh its superior preten
sions to notice. The principal fall, which can be viewed so as to
make a subject for the pencil, consists of a fall of the whole river,
over a high broken ledge of rock running strait across the river, in
several streams, the largest torrent taking its fall too much out of
sight from this point to be taken advantage of. Then at a smaU
interval, it pours in one foaming sheet over a smooth ledge of
Rock, with an oblique direction, into an immense deep pool,
where it boils, and again rushes down some smaller ledges ; and
the whole seems so locked in that you can form no conception of
its exit. A remarkable fine Birch of the weeping kind overhangs
the principal fall.

CARNARVONSHIRE 191
After waiting the whole day within doors without a shower,
were so unfortunate on our return to faU in with a shower which
most thoroughly wet us ; but doubled our reUsh for our tea and a
fireside. On our return, again remarked that Moel Siabod never
appears to more advantage than from the road near the Gate
entering the field m which the Roman ViUa is, as it admits of a
fine foreground of the Road, and a bend of the River with Trees
and some rocky knoUs.
July 13*", 1810.— Rainy ; confined aU day.
July 14*^ 1810.— After violent rain during the night the
clouds began to disperse, and indicate a dry day ; so that we
promised ourselves a pleasant ride, and mounted our horses with
great spirits. The River Llug-wy had felt the effect of the fresh,
and rolled most majestically, particularly where, obstructed in
his strait forward course by two or three ledges of Rock running
directly across the River, it foUows those channels before it gains
its more regular current ; then through the bridge, where it forms
a most picturesque cataract, which, though now I have seen it
three or four times, I still view with increased pleasure.
Proceed, admiring Moel Siabod to our right, seen to great
advantage for some way after passing this Bridge. Its highest
point was cloudless, as were all the inferior ones round it. Sir
R. Hoare stopped near the Gate which leads to the Roman Villa,
and spread his stool in the Road to make a dra-wing of it, whilst I
turned in once more to explore the Roman Relic. I followed the
Une of what I the first day conceived to be the Agger of the
Station, and think I may venture to pronounce it of that descrip
tion, for even in the hedges that intersect it, and the old Barn
at the end of it, you perceive Bricks, though by its being under
Corn and Hay, there was no possibiUty of carrying the search so
far as to place it beyond conjecture. The Villa was just without
it. I went through the ruins again, and once more examined the
rude piUars that supported the Hypocaust.
We digressed a Uttle way on from the main road, attended by a
peasant, through a beautiful birch grove to the middle of the
accUvity on our right, till we came to a place black with ashes,
and near it, an immense heap Uke a tumulus grassed over, of
nothing else but cinders and scoria, infallible evidence of there
having been some great works there ; and such heaps are found
in several places; the whole hill being called by a name in
Welsh signifying the Brow or Hill of the Forges. In regaining

192 TOURS IN WALES
our road we had diverged from, we foUowed the old Roman way
communicating -with those works, and in one place saw for
several yards the undoubted old pavement.
Hence to Penmachno falls by Pont ar Lleder, and ride above
the Conway and all the way in sight of it — a curious straitened
channel through a rocky bed — and at the junction of the Machno
with the Conway, turn up the Vale watered by the former, and
from which it takes its name. At a FulUng Mill a few hundred
yards above the Embouchure, follow our bare footed guide, a
peasant girl, through a tangled path, to see the principal fall,
which is very beautiful, and has its due accompaniment of wood
and rock, but is so confined and shut in that it almost renders the
use of the pencil impracticable. Ride on through this pleasing
little Vale of a tamer and very different character to most of
those in its neighbourhood, its boundaries being high hills and
grassy to the top.
The ViUage of Penmachno stands on a gentle elevation just
above the River, and is very sequestered at the extremity of the
Vale. The Church is a very mean structure, and has no monu
ment within, and nothing to excite notice* but an old Painting on
boards hung on nail by the Chancel window. It folds like a book,
-with a hinge. On one leaf is a Monk ; on the other the Virgin
or a female Saint, with the Palm in her hand, and a Missal open ;
whilst at her feet there is a Turk, by his head dress, with a
f aulchion in his hand, as if he was issuing from some subterranean
place, with some murderous intent. On the other side is repre
sented the Crucifixion. I suppose brought from some neigh
bouring religious house at the Dissolution. It seems to have
been well painted for the time. And in the Chancel window I
noticed two or three fragments of painted glass, particularly a
head and shoulders of a Madonna, or some such figure, well done,
and in fine preservation. Ewybr Nant lies in a Uttle dingle,
striking out of this Vale to the West, where Doctor Griffith
Roberts [?] was born.
On our return, stop to see the Uttle Church of Bettws, situated
in a most beautiful Churchyard, having a couple of fine yew
trees and several fine ash, large and neatly fenced in ; but the
Church itself stands at the edge of it, overhanging the River, and
not above six feet from the margin, which is falUng in very fast,
and soon threatens the overthrow of the whole fabrick, which is
* The screen dividing Nave and Chancel, though not very rich, seems to
have been much better wrought than you could have expected in such a
church.

CARNARVONSHIRE 193
very meanly built, and has nothing worthy of note within but a
well sculptured Effigy of a Warrior in Armour, with a short sword
by his side hung by a rich baldrick round his middle, on the centre
of which is a smaU Escutcheon (I think a chevron between three
lily stalks). His head rests on his helmet, ha-ving an Eagle's
head on it as a crest. It is -wrought of hard stone, and very
perfect. A Uon at his feet, and on the outer rim of the tomb,
Hic jacet Gruffyd ap Davyd Goch. Agnus Dei miserere mei, in
raised characters. The Rev. Mr. Pryce of Hendre Rhys Gethin
claims the niche, with its sculptured inmate, and the seat adjoining
it. One of his family, a nephew, has been buried there. Hence
under the fine woods and high hills of Gwydyr to Llanrwst.
Conway Castle.
July IQ^^, 1810.f — The Castle is situated on an oblong ledge
of rock projecting from the town walls, and the building in
many places seems interwoven -with it. The principal entrance
was at the extremity of a street opening from the main Street,
called Castle Street, towards it, in which the Hall and some
ancient respectable houses were. By a gentle ascent over a waU
filling up part of a foss, which in this Place crosses the angle from
waU to wall of the town, you come to the drawbridge, which
passed, you enter a pointed Gateway between two elegant small
Bastions, of no great height, which had a Portcullis ; then up a
few steps to another smaller doorway ; and then a platform flanked
with three low Bastions in a strait Une, from which you enter the
Area of the Castle, on the South side of which is the great HaU or
State Room,of a singular figure,as it takes the curve of the external
waU, which foUowed the shape of the rock it stood on. This noble
room has on the South side one large fireplace, and on each side
three circular headed -windows ; a fireplace at West end, and one
fireplace on the North side ; three pointed windows, and a doorway
looking to the open area, and one very fine circular headed window
at East End, which some imagine belonged to the Chapel, the
East End of this room having been fenced off for this purpose.
The Roof of the Room is supported by eight pointed Arches of
stone — ^four now only remaining. Farther on to the East and
only separated by a small vacancy, a withdra-wing Room,
supported by two Arches similar to those in the great Room,
fThe Journal for July 15"^ (Llanrwst-G-wydir-Trefriw-Conway) and 16*'^
(Caerhun-Penygaer-Conway) is included in the author's copy for press,
above. — Ed. o

194 tours in wales
with a fireplace, and two windows, circular tops within and
square without, where tracery seems to have been elegant.
Another Room as this, that having the support of two arches
Uke the preceding, with two fireplaces, and one window Uke those
of the former, Ughted by an open area within the large one. There
are four Bastions on each side, of the same dimensions, having
each three stories, the two upper stories ha-ving fireplaces.
The four towers of the East end have each of them a smaller
tower issuing from the side of the larger, involving a staircase
and tower a considerable height above the larger, producing a
Ught and elegant effect. Pennant says that each large tower
has its attendant lesser one ; but this is erroneous. In the
most easterly Bastion to the North is a semicircular recess
formed out of the thickness of the walls, having 3 narrow
-windows, the whole beautifully groined, from the midway of the
pillars, from which the groins spring. Smaller Arches issue,
forming staUs Uke those the officiating priests had in chancels
formerly. This is generally caUed the Oriel Window, and it was
supposed to be Queen Eleanor's Room ; but if it was, it is singular
that the -windows should have been placed so high as not to admit
of anybody looking out, and that there should be no fire place
in the room, the only instance through all the Bastions. I am
therefore disposed to think that this was the Chapel, and that in
this beautiful recess the Altar was. On one side of it opening
into a small room was an aperture as if for a confessional. At
the East end is a flat form similar to that at the opposite end,
and flanked alike with 3 low Bastions, but it is bowed. There
was a covered way down to the River at the East End. A great
part of the bottom of one of the Bastions on the North side, which
was so built as to project from the slanting rock it rested on, has
been for some time fallen, leaving the upper part, by the strength
of its cement, suspended in air.
Conway, to be duly appreciated as a picturesque object, and to
be properly admired, should be seen in all sides and at all hours ;
for there never was a scene that took so many changes, shifting
its features at every look and every variation of Ught and shade ;
and I would recommend it to every traveller, not to be satisfied
with two or three Views of it, making no doubt but the last wiU
stiU be the most pleasing.
For a general View of To-wn, Castle, Mountains in the back
ground, and its singularly striking accompaniments every way, I
¦think there cannot be a better point to take it from than the
opposite shore, a little to the North of the Ferry house. And for

CARNARVONSHIRE 195
a -view of the Estuary and the opposite Promontory — ^Deganwy,
Gogarth, and Orme's Head — strangers should always be directed
to that little tongue of land beyond Holland's Arcadia projecting
towards the Marsh — a pleasant turf to walk on, near the town and
easily accessible.
There are four Gates to the Town. Porth Ucha, through which
you enter the To-wn from the great Roads. Porth Isaf, the Lower
Gate, through which you go the Quays and the River. Porth y
VeUn, the Mill Gate, in the Western Wall ; and Porth y Castell,
in the East Wall, a little to the left of the entrance to the Castle
at the end of Castle Street. There is another Gate in the Curtain
stretching from one of the Bastions facing the River, and formerly
terminating in a Bastion called Porth yr Adar, the Birds' Gate ;
but why I cannot learn, and yet this is not properly a To-wn Gate.
Tuesday, July 17"', 1810. — After breakfast visited the Church.
It is a long building having a wide roof without, and looks much
lower than it is, the external earth being higher than the floor
-within. It consists of Nave, Chancel, and two Side Aisles, and a
South Transept, being a sort of Chapel belonging to the Hollands,
in which are aU their monuments. The two rows of Pillars sepa
rating the Aisles from the Nave have sUghtly pointed Arches,
with a head sculptured just above the spring of each. It is divided
from the Chancel by an elegant skreen, formerly the facing of a
Rood loft. An Organ now {but a hand one) supplies its place.
The skreen appears to have been pieced and repaired yet in its
best day, though handsome, very inferior to that at Llanrwst.
In the Chancel, -within the skreen, as at St. Mary's Haverfordwest,
a set of Oak stalls with desk before, of fine old carved Oak, for
the Corporation. On the end pillar, on the South side, observe in
embossed letters, WiUiam HoUand.
The old embossed tomb on the Chancel floor, which Mr.
Pennant says is that of Mary, Mother of Archbishop WilUams,
I have my doubts about, as on each side of the head are the
initials of E and M ; and though her husband's name was
Edmund, and in the inscription round the rim you see the name of
Edmund, yet from those initials, which I presume were those of
her Christian and Surname, I should suspect it to be the tomb of
another person. For the Hookes Tomb vide Pennant.
The East Window has handsome tracery and painted glass, as
have the windows in the South transept. The Roof within lined
with plain Oak. The Font is well -wrought, decorated with
cinquefoil compartments and other devices, but hangs very feebly
o2

196 tours in wales
together. There is a Canopy, but untenanted. The North
Porch of coarse old oak. The South has a round headed stone
cased doorway, but very plain. The Tower seems in a ruinous
state. On enquiring of the Parson, Mr. Reynolds, if he could shew
me any portions (if any extant) of the old Abbey he was so kind
as to accompany me to a garden bordering on the Churchyard,
where he remembered a beautiful Archway, and other waUs ;
but they had been destroyed, and very faint traces of them left.
These, probably, Mr. Pennant alluded to.
I then visited the curious old house in Castle Street, called the
College, said to have been formerly the residence of the Hookes.
The pine end front, as you may call it, facing the street, has a
singular double bow window in the first floor terminating in
woodwork -wrrought into escutcheons, &c., bearing the Arms of
the Isle of Man and the Stanley Crest, the Eagle and Child, and
some other Crests, with in the centre a Coat which I take to be the
cognizance of the Hookes. The House had been new modelled
and let out to several poor people ; and one Room, in which were
the Portraits of the Gentleman and Lady who built it at full
length, together with a great deal of Pedigree all over the Walls,
was entirely stopt up with lath and plaister, a great pity, as this
might throw some Ught on its date and its former possessors.
There are in Conway several very old Houses of a singular
construction of different eras, but none more striking (and whose
history has never yet been properly told) than the Ty Mawr,
which I next visited. Enter a handsome porch of singular con
struction towards the Street, over the door of which is Queen
EUzabeth's Arms, and at each corner an escutcheon relative to
the builder or the then owner {temp. EUz.) ; viz., on one side, the
three Bucks heads ; but the other effaced. Over the house door,
or rather of the Porter's lodge, the two Greek words. You enter
a square court with arches round two sides supporting a terrace,
ascended by a handsome flight of stairs. On landing, you enter a
round headed doorway with R and W at the corners (date over
the door not quite perfect) into a large room, with a fine old
chimney, having a Coat of Arms of the Wynnes in stucco on it,
with R W and 1580. CeiUng in patterns. One long end window,
and two side ones. Within this room a larger ceiUng the same,
and several escutcheons of Arms, with R W and G W in a circular
compartment, and the date of 1580 ; but over the door by which
you enter this room of old carved oak inlaid -vdth black is 1551,
proving a house to have existed there prior to the additions and
the new decorations of 1580. In another room, over the chimney

CARNARVONSHIRE 197
piece, the Queen's Arms. The ceiUng displaying several Coats,
such as that of larddur, Wynne, Ednyved Vychan, and Collwyn
ap Tangno. The grand private interest is in the middle of the
buildmg in the lane, whose Portico was once sustamed by Pillars ;
one of them lying by the door of a Cottage the other side of the
way. This might be caUed the Queen's door, having her Arms
over the inner side in good preservation. A room on one side,
the Queen's Arms agaui, with portcullis on one side and rose on
the other, with E R ; date 1577. Depth of the building from the
farther end in the lane to its street corner, 142 ft. 6 ins.
Took boat through a mizzUng rain. Landed at Degan-wy.
Called on Lord Kirkwall, who was not at Home.
Wednesday, July 18*'', 1810.— Sent our Horses early over the
ferry, and soon followed them in the smaU boat. Got over,
mounted, and rode on the margin of the Estuary, and turn
up to the flat marshy ground separating Llandudno from the other
part of the Promontory, before we come to Gogarth, where
I perceived part of an old building which I am told are Uke two
Bastions of a Castie. Mount the Hill at the ViUage of Llandudno.
Pass by Copper mine works, and over a fine down curiously
dotted and streaked with the outbreak of Limestone rock, tiU we
come to the extreme point of Orme's Head, which is a fine bold
bluff point, but very inferior in point of the horrid and tre
mendous to our CUffs in Pembrokeshire. Hence we enjoy a
most extensive and deUghtful prospect both by Sea and Land,
and are greeted ¦with the notes of different Birds. The point
fronts the N. West. Bend our course to the right, still keeping
near the edge of the Rocks, and pass the spot which Pennant
calls Lletty Vadog, and where he says there are remains of walls
without mortar. See a Uttle higher up a tumulus or two. Pass
under the signal post, and close under the hill which it stands on.
Pass the site of a much larger building than that of Lletty Vadog,
of which no notice has been taken. But as Sir Richard Hoare
justly observed, seeing that all this steep, by the old furrows, had
been in early days under tillage, and that there must have been
Men to cultivate the Land, and they must have had houses, the
remains we see are those of their early habitations.
Descend a slope towards the sea to see the soUtary Church of
Llandudno. A plain structure and producing nothing within.
Repass the Copper Work, and before we come to the Village of
Llandudno, turn to the left, and ascend a hill to see the Maen Sigl
so much talked of, and which Pennant mentions as situated in the

198 TOURS IN WALES
midst of a circle, having a foss round it, and a way formed to it ;
whereas it is no such thing. There is indeed some faint Agger of
Stones on one side of the Summit, and another of Earth, and
¦within this you see many round sUght excavations, and many
marked with stones round, similar to those found perpetually on
many of our heights through Wales. And as to the Maen Sigl —
Cryd Tudno — it stands at the extremity of the Summit, and is not
very large, but it does shake, but has no foss about it, and has no
road marked to it.
Over the flat by the Margin of the Sea, making for Deganwy.
Turn off to search for the stone inscribed between Bodavon and
Tyddyn HoUand. Find it just on the road side close by the latter
place. There the Man's father found it, but, lying along, he raised
it, as it now is. Thus inscribed — sanct — ivvs . .cacr  s.*
The man who shewed me this stone told me that after storms and
low tides a sort of Causeway is seen stretching across the sands,
and IS supposed to have been an ancient road coming from FUnt
shire, made by the Romans before the flat land there was
encroached on. The Sam was called Sarn HoUand, perhaps a
corruption for Sarn Helen, as well as Tyddyn HoUand for
Tyddyn Helen.
Sir Richard Hoare being gone on, I hastened to join him.
Stopped at Eglwys Rhos. Small Church ; Chancel belonging to
Gloddaeth, which was once of painted glass, though nothing now
remains but a bit here and there. The principal bit represents a
man kneeUng before a book in a Herald's Coat, with the Arms of
Englefield blazoned on it, and issuing from his mouth, FiU Dei
miserere mei, and above a compartment with a skull and a
cemetery. Above at the top of the window, the only bit perfect,
there the figure of a King with a cro^wn on. An escutcheon to the
left of Herald. The roof of Chancel neatly ceiled with carved
Oak. In my way hence to Degan^wy fancied I saw a large portion
of old Road pitched running paraUel with the present.
The Ruins of Deganwy Castle occupy two Hills, one lower than
the other, with a little flat between. The wall embraced the
Summit of both hills, and followed the edge of the smallest where
still exists a piece of wall, so well cemented that it maintains its
ground, though on the decUvity of a smooth rock the foundation
Une distinctly traced, and here and there an immense fragment of
the building as inseparable as a solid stone. After passing the flat
* This inscription has been for long a crux. For the most authoritative
readings see Arch. Camb., 1897, pp. 140-2 ; 1912, pp. 148-9.— Ed.

CARNARVONSHIRE 199
it ascended the larger Hill, which towards the North and North
West is steep and craggy. The area of the larger Hill's summit is
of great extent. On the North side portions of two Bastions on
the edge of the most precipitous part ; and a large piece of a
curtain Wall facing the Rock of great Height. A large Tower
occupied the centre of the largest Hill, as did another the smaller.
They call the Castle, Castell y Vairdre. They say there was a
Church there, and that they find Bones there and pieces of
Coffins ; and tradition says that there was a town there, which
extended as far as Gogarth, and that there all the shipping and
traffick of that River was. Some think that the Romans had a
station there, and the Farmer at Deganwy shewed me in a field
above the house a spot in which Bricks and Ashes turn up, as if
there had been a Brick kiln, and not only in one part of the field
but many, and that he never heard in late times that ever bricks
had been made there.
Thursday, July 19*'', 1810. — Crossed the ferry at Conway, and
rode to Bodyscallan, a venerable old house situated on an
eminence, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn, where two of his
sisters Uve with an Aunt of theirs. The House seems to have
been builtabout the year 1626, by the date on one of the pine ends,
and the initials of R W — Robert Wynne, the same probably
who buUt the Plas Mawr in Conway. In the interior and middle
of the house there is a corkskrew stone staircase leading to an
observatory at the top of the house, which, by the great age
seemingly of the stone composing it, belongs probably to a building
of a very old date, and most likely of the castellated kind. From
this look out the View is most extensive and beautiful, and a peep
of the sea is obtained in several different places. The House
is embosomed in Woods of Noble growth, which are suffered to
luxuriate their o^wn way, without any fear of the axe. There are
good gardens annexed, and a very fine grassy terrace facing
Conway (though from the state it is, kept in disuse), at the end
of which there is a covered seat formed out of an old bed of Oak,
inlaid -with other wood, in a compartment of which I observe the
date of 1581, with the initials, R W. This ReUc was said to be
brought from the Plas Ma^wr. You enter at a HaU a large old
Room, but low, and ha-ving nothing either singular or dignified
to attract notice. In it are two pictures— one of Sir John Wynne
of G^wydir, the original from which the plate in Pennant was
taken, though I think the plate has not fully expressed the
character of the Painting. The other in Armour of a Person,
by the dress, about the time of the Civil Wars. Name not

200 TOURS IN WALES
known. In the Drawing Room I saw the Portrait mentioned by
Pennant of Doctor ElUs Pryse, on boards, a singular style of
painting, and seemingly by the same Master as painted his son
Thomas Pryse the Poet, which I saw at Hendre Rhys Gethin,
having the same sort of complexion and red hair as the Father,
though with a more agreeable countenance. The Doctor's
Portrait has the date 1584 in one corner of it. Was treated ¦with
the sight of a basket of old MSS., but had not time to examine
them thoroughly. I saw several old Chronicles, and a copy of
Jeffrey of Monmouth on vellum, a fair copy of a collection of Welsh
Proverbs, and the original Manuscript in Robert Vaughan's hand
writing of his " British Antiquities Revived," very fair and
entire — a great curiosity.
Took our leave of the Ladies, and set off for Gloddaeth.
(N.B. — Bodyscallan, if you except its chimneys, cannot be seen,
it is so deeply embosomed in Woods.) Gloddaeth Ues under
a sloping Limestone Rock, of considerable height, clothed with
majestick woods in a large semicircle. The trees are of every
sort, and of very large growth, particularly Horse chestnut, par
ticularly in that extensive grove in the Vale beneath the House.
The House is most charmingly situated, ¦with a South aspect,
and on all sides skreened from the other points. The building
is of various Eras, and all together is very large. There is an
antique hall with a dais at one end, as at Colleges, and a Gallery
at the other, supported by arched Oak beams, and a canopied
ceiUng over the dais, with Escutcheon of the Family covering
almost the Royal Arms, blazoned in Fresco, and some loyal
sentiments ; but I never saw the Earl of Leicester's Arms, which
Pennant mentions. The Chimney piece is stone in nearly a large
elUptick Arch, ha^ving on it, in raised characters, Heb Dduw heb
ddim, Duw a digon ; and in another line Honi soit qui mal y pense.
But this Hall is nothing to that at Llewenney, either in size or
perfection of Costume.
Visited the Library, a small narrow Room, with a great many
good old books in it, and several curious MSS., particularly one
volume of a Froissart in Folio on Vellum finely iUuminated, con
taining the two first books. There is another, it is said, at
Mostyn, which I am induced to think may be the remaining books,
as it is not probable, as it was a present to an ancestor of the family
from Lord Buckhurst, that it should not be perfect. There is a
large Cabinet of Coins ; but the Article most deserving notice in
the Museum is the torquis of Gold found near Harlech, circular
and twisted, 13 inches diameter, and weighs  . Kitchen curious.

CARNARVONSHIRE 201
Buttery, half door as at Colleges. The Gardens are below the
house, sloping in terraces, waUs very high. Must be very early
from their exposure. Fine outdoor grapes.
Hence visit Penrhyn, an irregular old house, where it is said
Ednyved Fychan was born in 1170. They say that originally
the old mansion or palace stood where the orchard now is, and
they show you the old chapel, now a stable. Proceed along
the margin of a semicircular bay to Trillo's Well, covered over
with a low vaulted roofed building, and pitched with pebbles
bedded in mortar without instead of tiles. It is entered by a low
door at one end, on the right hand of which in a corner seems to
be the eye of the Well, which falls into a square bason at the
other end, and by a duct under the Wall into a receptacle on the
other side, I suppose for the convenience of bathing the Umbs in.
It stands within a square curtilege, and had a wall round it, the
stump of which is still seen. The building is fourteen feet long
without it by eleven.
After visiting Trillo's WeU we ride on, ascending a Uttle way, till
we come to the Church, dedicated to him, Llandrillo, situated on
a beautiful knoU commanding a fine view of the sea. The
Church is double, divided lengthways by a row of elegant Arches
of the Ughtest style of Henry 7th's time, resting on nicely propor
tioned columns. On the North side, two Arches, now stopped
up, shew it to have had an Aisle or Aisles on that side. The
East Window has some painted Glass in it, and in two places I
observe Ednyved Vychan's old Coat, a chevron between three
Hebnets ; so that it is clear that it was set up before he had
acquired his new Coat, viz., three Saxons' heads, probably
given by that powerful chieftain who is said to have resided at
Bryn Eurin. The Church has a handsome steeple, and merits a
better edifice to attend it. Within a very short distance stands
the ruined pile of Bryn Eurin, where it is said that first Maelgwn
G^wynedd had his palace there, and that Ednyved Vychan
possessed and inhabited it in the 12th Century, to which age we
may date the painted Glass. The Ruins visible shew it to have
been large, and the foundations that may be easily traced in all
directions, stiU larger. I never saw a place so overrun with the
sloe tree, which, perhaps, gave name to it.
Hence to Llan Gwstennin Church, close by an old mansion
caUed Llangwstennin Hall, on a slope under a fine hill of wood.
It is a Uttle, mean building, but has the remains of a painted Glass
•vrindow at the East End — a figure of a man in armour, with
upUfted sword, his horse standing by him. Can it be meant for

202 TOURS IN WALES
Constantino, to whom it is dedicated ? I there, for the first time,
saw the Bangu, or Hand bell ; nearly square, but yet bell shaped.
In the Evening walked up to Bennarth, from which nothing can
be seen but itself ; it is so shut up with trees.
Saturday, 21st July, 1810.* — With an appearance of approaching
rain, we set off to explore Penmaen bach, led by a memorandum
of the late Mr. Griffiths of Caerhun, which gave us Reason to
think we should have found there marks of early population,
Druidical circles, and other relics, as well as Carneddau. But
after with some difficulty getting to the only spot that could
possibly furnish room for such appearances, the only flat surface
in the vicinity of his direction, we found nothing, but a few heaps
of stones, evidently gathered off the piece of ground they were
on, the better to fit it for the plough ; and the site of ancient
sheep folds. But to have made out anything Uke a perfect circle
or oval, which he refers to, required a more fertile imagination
than mine.
However, by our search after those imaginary remains, we were
put into the track of that ancient fortification on the summit of
the hills above Conway Marsh, which he calls CasteU Caer Lleion,
perhaps one of the earUest of the British fortresses, as well as the
strongest. It occupies the highest point of that ridge overlooking
the Marsh of Conway, and includes an immense space broken by
several portions of Rock scattered over it, affording great shelter,
and giving to it an uncommon wildness. We ascended by what I
supposed to be the old Road to it, made tolerably easy by its
judicious direction, and entered it by an opening in the stone
Agger facing the Vale of Llanrwst to the South West. Being on
the sides rather difficult of access, it is defended but by one Agger
of Stones, and a foss without it ; but at the North end, where it
was more accessible, by several circumvallations. On the Marsh
it is very precipitous ; yet even there its Umits are marked by a
line of stones running with the edge of the precipice. Below the
Camp on that side is a craggy point of Rock immediately over
hanging the Marsh, the hill being there very precipitous, and
might have served for an ara speculatoria, to observe what was
passing at the base of the hill, out of the reach of the Camp at
top. At the North end, which is fortified by stronger and
redoubled rampant, appears to have been a part detached from
the main Camp, a sort of Praitorium, which the King or Chieftain
* The Journal for Friday, the 20th — Caerhun, and Church — is included
in the press copy, above. — Ed.

CARNARVONSHIRE 203
who had the command occupied. In short, whether we regard it
as a post of strength or a point for prospect, it is equally entitled
to notice, and should be pointed out to the traveller, not one of
whom in a hundred has ever seen, or is ever directed to it The
South East end particularly commands a view of unrivalled
beauty of the Estuary of the Conway, the Bay of Beaumaris, to
Anglesey ; all the Hundred of Creuddin, with its breaks. Woods,
and Promontories, and the River Conway glittering here and there
in its course, up to Gwydir — that noble Vista terminating in the
Arennig Mountains. The Castle and town, the tide being at full
when we saw it, presented a most superb Panorama. I have
strong reasons to believe that this was the place called Caer
Gyfiin, for I stiU think there never was a military post at Conway
before Edward's time. I observed on the side next to the Marsh,
in part of the rampart, part of the dry wall entire, what I never
observed before, which induced me to t^iink that the surrounding
rampart was only a loose heap of stones piled high.
N.B. — Just as you come to the winding descent above Sychnant,
a -view of matchless beauty and grandeur suddenly opens upon
you, with the ¦wild steriUty of the naked Hill bounding the pass
through which the road winds, contracted by the richness and
verdure of the Uttle Vale at its base on one side, called Penmaen
Bach ; and on the other the fine downy irregularities, ending in
the savage subUmity of Penmaenmawr. The little Vale of
Sychnant and the flat about the Church of Dwygyfylchi extremely
fertile and pleasant. A fine house of a Mr. Smith. Dwygyfylchi
Church rebuilt 1760.
In the evening proceeded to Aber, passing the curious road
under Penmaenmawr, which no man, who has any refiection,
can travel without feeUng pecuUar awe — the Sea coming by the
foot of a precipice hid from the Eye by a parapet Wall on one
side, and the tremendous Mountain of Penmaenmawr on the other,
with a lava of rocky fragments covering its side, threatening
ruin, and some of them supported with portions of masonry to
stop their do^wnfaU. For a couple of miles the Conway side
of this pass, the Roads excellent, and as strait as the line can be
dra^wn, and aU the way after leaving the pass to Aber. No
Roman road coidd ever be straiter.
Monday, July 23rd, 1810.* — Set off on an excursion to visit the
top of Penmaenmawr, we had looked forward to with much curioas
* The substance of the Journal for July 22nd (Aber Falls— Roman
Road— Stone Circles — Bwlohyddauvaen) has been already given. — Ed.

204 TOURS IN WALES
expectation from the accounts of it by Edward Ll^wyd, and after
him, by aU historians and tourists ever since, though I doubt
much if half of those who mention it have ever seen it. The
description of it by Edward Ll'wyd is certainly exaggerated, and
betrays an ignorance of that species of early fortification (if that
can with propriety be called fortification which I think had
nothing to do ¦with anything military), so very common through
out Wales, though on lesser heights, and ¦with circumvallation
of stones ; within which, and adjoining it, are several circular sites
of old buildings of different dimensions, which are those he calls
towers, but were no other in my humble opinion than the huts of
the early inhabitants of the Island who occupied it; but yet allowing
them to have been turrets or bastions, numbering all such as
connect with the walls, I don't think they can amount to above
30 or 40. Over the plain are seen several of a similar character ;
but there can be no pretence for calUng them towers. From this
flat by a narrow winding and difficult path, which you must pick
through loose stones, you gain the summit, after passing two or
three (in some places) ramparts of stones, which is one confused
aggregate of broken points of rock and small circular huts, which
I suppose are Ukewise caUed towers ; and two large Carneddau, in
one of which that had been opened I saw the remains of a Cistvaen ;
not so high or so multiplied from want of the same means,
all this mountain being nothing but an aggregate of loose stones.
In the description given of it by Ed. Ll^wyd, who perhaps had seen
in MS. old Sir John Wjome's account, it is clear that he must
have taken into the account not only the Apex of the mountain,
but the large flat and hollow on a much lower level, which is
properly the Braicb y Dinas, the Arm or Wing of the City, the
Apex being only the keep or citadel, round which, on the most
accessible side, are seen the remains of one of those dry walls,
now overturned, and an irregular agger ; and nearer the North
East point of the Apex, a Well, said never to lack water in the
dryest weather, but which Pennant conceives to be fed by rains
and the humid vapour which so frequently involves its head.
The View from it is highly interesting.
In our way down from the summit, observe at the base of the
high mountain a circular building which, on examining, I found
had no aperture or entrance in the sides, and though now un
covered, appeared to have ended in a cove, Uke the top of an oven,
and was perfect beyond the part that had begun to contract into
an arch ; and the circles, if we might judge from their diameter,
which appeared to be on the Conway side of the apex of the

CARNARVONSHIRE 205
mountain, as well as from their not having an entrance at the
sides, seemed to have been designed for a similar purpose. I
thought I discovered the Avenues Pennant mentions as leading to
this spot up the sides of the first ascent.
I agree fuUy with Gen. PownaU in concluding that this was not
a miUtary fortification ; but I must dissent from him in thinking
it a great Druidical Establishment. I cannot conceive it to be
anything but a town of the primitive settlers of the Island, who
Uved in high places, the Valleys being a tangled ¦wilderness, and
infested by Wolves and other Beasts of Prey, and Uved in Com
munities under their chief, whether a Hero, a Druid, or a Patriarch,
and at a period before even War was known ; and I never can
assent to a belief that in after ages such a high situation as this
was fixed on to be a Camp for our Llewelyn in the time of his
Father in Law, King John, and that it was from this height he
saw Bangor on fire, whilst his teeth were chattering in his head
from cold and from fear. Would any man who had any spirit
or knowledge of military tactics, even were it expedient to retreat
and take shelter from persecution, or a superior force, ever
clamber up at the hazard of his neck and bring up 2,000 men with
him to starve ? Where before they could, if they had a favour
able opportunity to do so, retort on their Enemies. Having any
inteUigence of their position, might come infinitely too late to
wreak their vengeance on them. Such is the difficulty of the
descent as well as ascent. Besides, the Enemy would have time to
be at a sufficient distance from any fear.
Descending from the mountain, we take our way over a fine
down to see a spot mentioned by Gibson in his edition of Camden,
and by Pennant, and without much stretch of Fancy we may
suppose that this was a Cursus for their Chariot Races, being
very ¦wide, and for the greater part of the way, as fine as the do^wns
of Wiltshire, ¦with only as much fine quaUty as might be ¦wished
for for such an exhibition, and the only place perhaps capable of
producing such an extent of surface so downy and yet so full of
variety, and in so elevated situation ; so commodious for the
great estabUshment on Penmaenma^wr. After riduig over what
may be deemed a Cursus, I come to two large Carneddau, the
largest being surrounded by very small ones in a belt. About a
mile farther on we come to a spot, after passing by the reUck of
either a large Carnedd or ground work of some circular building,
fuU of ancient works, at the extremity of which my guide shewed
me a stone called Maen y Campiau, the Stone of the Games,
which Pennant represents as an upright one, but which I saw was

206 TOURS IN WALES
a mass of natural Rock, near which there were two Carneddau
and a circle ¦with a slight stone Agger ; further on above that a
large circle marked with upright stones.
Tuesday, July [24th], 1810.* — Alone, in consequence of sup
posing that the Roman road from Bwlch y ddauvaen had not
possibly come by the Vale of Aber, I set off to see if I could not find
a more Ukely course for it to have taken so as to have avoided the
precipitous descent into that deep glen, and the very narrow pass
through above the river, scarcely admitting of room now for a
horse to go by. I went up the way we had before taken, as well
to see a spot at the extremity of the little vale of Aber called
Havod Celyn, an old house in ruins, ¦with a small farm house
close to it. The old house never had been large, but was built
in a form rather above the fashion of the ordinary farms of that
Country, as it had a loftier chimney, an arched doorway, and, as
the farmer informed me, had on it a folding door with large iron
hinges and studded with nails like that on a prison, and fastened
on the inside by a piece of wood running into the wall on both
sides of it, the iron crooks for holding the hinges being inserted in
the great stones of the walls, there being no wooden door frame.
I was likewise told that in the adjoining field, which appeared to
be much intersected with stumps of fences and old foundations
of various sorts, as well as seemingly remains of Carneddau, there
was the site of an old Church overhanging the little mountain
stream that comes from Llyn Nantavon.
In my ascent to the Mountain, not so high up as where I saw
the large Druid Circle, saw one of much smaller dimensions,
with a stone agger round it, having in it 2 round huts united
rather deeper than they are in ordinary, with entrance to each ;
and on either hand,in my progress, as I diverged a little,saw marks
of early habitations by small enclosures of different shapes. Rode
on till I came to a little hollow formed by the mountain torrents,
and to which I thought I could distinctly track the Roman road,
and then tried its course by the supposed line it must have taken,
and found it just as strait by that, if not straiter than the former
we had first fixed on, for this new line was found to incUne less to
the right than that did to the left, and in every respect to be
preferred. For some time, it seemed to have followed the stone
wall on the right to its end on the summit of the hill, and there,
without too great a stretch of foray, was easily perceived f ollo^wing
* MS. 2. 50.

CARNARVONSHIRE 207
a gentle slope, a broader road though grassed over, and in many
places with rather a little . . . , but by being the constant mountain
Road for the neighbouring farms to their sheep and turbary,
much beaten, and not so highly raised as it would have been in
flat or less dry ground. I stiU follow the same appearance, still
sloping gently to the Vale, with hardly any deviation from its
first, to Aber, at the base of the hill above Gorddinog, by that
means making that point ¦without the smallest difficulty of preci
pitous river, or any other impediment, and by a much less
distance. In my descent my attention was caught by a Druidical Circle
about a 100 yards out of my road, having two or three upright
stones yet standing, the others being lower, and a double row
fiUed with smaU stones, 25 yards diameter, and in the vicinity
near it other smaller enclosures.
On my return, visit the church ; new steeple, built by Lord
Bulkeley, having no steeple before. Church very decayed. In
the Church a handsome urn of an antique model, white marble ;
brought from Italy, with embossed on it in verd antique a
serpent (Inscription taken off by Sir R''. Hoare). Another
monument to a Lady Dorothy Bond, Wife of Sir Tho^. Bond,
Daur. of J"". Wynne of Gorddinog. Sir Tho^ died in 1734, aged
25. He was said to be the Person who built Bond Street in
London. Amongst the Ust of Benefactors to the Parish, which
was on paper, hardly legible, being put upon high, in a small
black frame,the name of Sir W'"- Thomas*,first of Carnarvon, then
of Aber, who left, but I could not read the sum, to the poor. There
was on the South side of the Church close to the Wall a large old
Limestone slab uninscribed, on low pillars of same stone, said
to have covered this Sir W""- Thomas. The present Rector, to
have this ascertained, had the grave opened, and found an
Oak Coffin of immense thickness, and fastened by 3 or more
padlocks, and of immense dimensions — as if it was meant to
have contained another body, and therefore it was fastened ¦with
locks that it might be easier opened, as the will of the deceased
might have mentioned where the keys were deposited.
We leave Aber ¦with regret, being most pleasingly situated at
the entrance into a charming romantick little Valley, ¦with a
scattered village and Church prettily sprinkled with trees.
The Inn is neat and clean, and the Landlord and his Wife are
most ci^vil and attentive. The View of the Sea from the window
* Sir Wm. Thomas's family came from [Aberglasney,] Llangathen.

208 TOURS IN WALES
we sat in was most deUghtful, being a South East aspect, with
Penmaenma-WT rearing its majestick Head exactly in front, and
the other bold Capes projecting beyond it on one side, and Penmon
and the Anglesey Coast with PriesthoUne Island on the other.
If travellers are in quest of fine scenery, curious ReUcs of British
Antiquity, and one fond of quiet neatness and civiUty, Aber wUl
certainly gratify them to their utmost wishes.
Leaving Aber in the evening, we take the lane above the
Church instead of the Turnpike road, as it goes through a farm
called Henffordd, the old way, and was said to have been the old
Sarn Helen or Roman Road which formerly went by the three
trees planted in a row in the Parson's la-wn, and up imder the
churchyard. From its direction as we travelled it, we concluded
it must have been nearly the course of the old Roman way, but in
less than three Miles we were obliged to desert it, as it took a turn
down to join the present road, and its continuation was lost
in an enclosed tract.
Stopped at Llandegai Church, beautifully situated above the
Ogwen on a Uttle Knoll. The Church is smaU, but an elegant
model of a cruciform building -with the Tower in the centre, the
whole Une of outward finished -with an embattled parapet. It
appears to be old, by the attrition of the stone, even -within the
Church the pillars that support the Arches being much worn,
by Age entirely ; and it excites surprize to see in a country, where
most of the common churches are of a very mean character, such
an elegant specimen of Architecture of the period we must date
it at, at least 500 years back, only to be accounted by supposing
that the possessors of Penrhyn, who certainly were the greatest
Men of their time, and had been from the first so, were likewise
Men of greater taste. The Church is dedicated to Tygai, who was
said to have been buried in the Churchyard, and that his grave
was marked -with the coarse piUar, now removed from the place
it orginally stood in to the South East side of the Cemetery,
where it serves to support a Dial.
In the Church is the monument of Archbishop Williams, his
figure represented kneeUng ; a great Ukeness ; it was of Alabaster,
it is said, which has been painted. Latin Epitaph. On the
South side of the Altar are two Effigies, male and female, in
Alabaster highly finished, raised on an Altar tomb, whose sides
are decorated with figures of monks -with Wings, that is. Monks
made Angels, holding escutcheons on their breasts, which once
seemed to have been painted with Coats of Arms, but now totally
effaced. The headdress of the female is very elegant and simple.

CARNARVONSHIBE 209
and the whole executed in a masterly style. It is generally
beUeved that this monument, as weU as two others of a similar
age and character, one in Beaumaris Church, and the other in
that of Penmynydd, were at the dissolution of Monasteries
brought from the Priory of Llanvaes, and each consigned to the
Parish Church of the family it was known to have belonged to.
There are some who have doubted this, but there have been
passages cited out of the Bards of those days in confirmation of the
more general opinion, that I think is decisive of the matter.
Besides, it is weU known that there was a smaU Chapel at the
mouth of the Ogwen, where the Corpses of those who died at
Penrhyn were known to have lain tiU the tide served to waft them
over to the other shore to be interred at Llanvaes, and that
perhaps the Chapel was built for the purpose. They say the
monument is that of a Sir William Griffith and his Lady, who I
beUeve was a Stanley.
Hence to the Inn caUed the Penrhyn Arms, where we occupied
a sitting room with a bow projection, having 3 windows com
manding the most enchanting prospect, all that we saw at Aber
with infinitely a greater expanse, the whole bay of Beaumaris,
Penmaen Mawr, Orme's Head and the Promontory of Llandudno
Uke an Island, the connecting flat being entirely lost to the eye ;
PriesthoUne and Beaumaris often seen beautifully gilded by the
Evening Sun, with the entrance of the Menai, &c. Too much
can't be said in praise of it. But before tea we strolled over the
summit of the ridge of Hill which bounds Bangor to the North,
which you enter exactly opposite the Inn door, and from this
ridge you gain a prospect that, I think, cannot be parallelled in all
Wales, for aU the prospect so much to be admired from the
bowUng green at the Inn is gained here from a greater height,
together with an unbounded view of the Mountains, particularly
the grand confines of the Ogwen, being perhaps the grandest
group of the whole Snowdonian tract. We explored this HiU to
find out the remains of Hugh Lupus's Castle, so much exaggerated
by Pennant ; but if we did not find anything to answer his
description, we found a much more interesting thing in a point
that gave us such a treat of prospect and salutary Air. To make
out the ground sufficient to answer the purpose of that sort of
shelter or defence which our earUest ancestors crowned their
Hills -with, required rather a Uvely fancy ; but to make it any
thing Uke what would have suited the tacticks of the proud
Norman exceeded much the powers of mine. Yet though we
failed to find the fortress of Hugh Lupus, as described by

.'210 ; TOURS IN WALES
Pennant, we found yhat; interested us much more, and what that
great Tourist in the visionary contemplation of Lupus's Castle
seemed, to have overlooked, the matchless prospect which the
.summit of this hill commands.
Wednesday, July [25th], 1810. — Our plan being to secure our
visit to the Vale of Ogwen, whilst the weather continued favour
able, we could not suffer a fine morning to escape us, so set off to
see the dressed Dairy ' and Cottage belonging to Lady Penrhyn
on the banks of the Ogwen. The weather was extremely hot,
,and the I Dust flew about in clouds that almost choked us, and
Clouds collecting and heat increasing portended a change of
Weather. The River, Uke all the Mountain Rivers when as low
fas this, is not a pleasing object, its channel she-wing more stones
than w^ter. The scene on all sides was enUvened by the course
of the Rail Road carriages laden with slates, a load that would be
Imore perhaps than 20 Horses could draw, dra-wn by two ; neat
cottages, Mills for different Manufactories, Cottages for the
workmen employed in the Mines, and a Chapel adjoining for their
,use. On the right, not far from the Quarry of Slates, saw a Neat
¦Villa, a new creation out of a spot lately covered -with rocky
, excrescences and surrounded by bog and turbary, now displaying
f pleasure grounds, grove, and gardens walled and cropped with
fruit, and fine meadows, occupied by a superintendent of the
Mines, called Bryn Derw.
Ride on to the extent of our proposed excursion, as far as that
spot which enabled us to see the point below Ogwen Lake which
¦ commanded the vale below it, and which we now were in. On
our return, stop at Lady Penrhyn's Dairy, a peasant in holiday
, cloaths, where Nature is no farther sacrificed to Art than, to
improve her beauties and conceal or remedy her defects. Art
only ministring as handmaid at her toilet ; where, in short, the
true characteristick of a dairy and all its appendages, neatness and
' cleanliness are united with elegance, proving that in every
process which relates to milk, nicety cannot be carried to excess ;
and, as in this instance, an exception to the general rule, that
extremes are neither unbecoming nor useless, and need not be
avoided. The Dairy itself in its first requisites particularly merits notice,
airiness and coolness, being situated so as to command the best
aspect, and having its floor, its benches, and its lining all of the
beautiful Slate of the Penrhyn Quarry, finely poUshed and nicely
.jointed, the whole ventilated in the most judicious manner, and

CARNARVONSHIRE !211
abundantly and curiously supplied with fine water to prevent
the possibiUty of anything impure existing to -vitiate the atmo
sphere such a Room requires.
The Pans are all of Queen Ware, handsomely bordered, and of a
pecuUar but most commodious shape. The Kitchen is a model
of convenience and neatness, and a fit companion for such a
dairy, -with furniture in the most appropriate Style, of which the
pendent rows of Bacon are not the least becoming and valuable
articles. The sitting room for the reception of her Ladyship and
Company is the chastest specimen of elegant simpUcity, and all
the offices of this ornamented Lactarium are in perfect character.
The Ground round it is a happy mixture of kitchen, flower, fruit
Garden and shrubbery, including an Apiary so contrived and
placed as to admit of seeing that wonderful insect at work, and
supplying Virgin honey without the usual murderous process.
Behind the House, properly shut out from the Eye, is that part
of the EstabUshment so materially connected with a Dairy, and
yet is of that nature as that no attention can prevent a degree of
Utter and impurity, namely the Piggery, the Poultry yard, the
furnaces for steaming potatoes, yards for fuel, &c., but all so
nicely planned and connected that nothing can exceed the
arrangement. The command of water here is remarkable. A
fountain plays in the Poultry Court for the Aquatick part of its
inhabitants, and even churning is performed by Water. At the
bottom of the Grounds flows the Ogwen, which here assumes a
gentler and more pastoral character than it usually shews ;
and every rocky excrescence and inequaUty incident to the
ground are so judiciously managed, by being she-wn or concealed
as may best suit the scene, as altogether to form one of the love-
Uest spots imagmable. Hence a beautiful path through a rich
sloping meadow reclaimed from a turbary, following the windings
of the river, brings you to another beautiful spot.
Lady Penrhyn's dressed Cottage orn'^e is happily placed so as to
admit of a view, through a fine skreen of trees, of a handsome
bridge here thrown over the Ogwen leadUig to the Quarries, and
to a partial view of the Quarries themselves opposite to it, at a
little distance. It consists of one elegant Room, with a Bow to
the River ; and suitable offices, stabUng, and kitchen and other
apartments for the person having the care of it — aU neatly and
compactly united. The Entrance to this little Paradise of
sweets is through an avenue, the sides of which are decorated
with knots of flowers in the form of Baskets of different shapes,
with handles covered and wreathed with creepers of various
p2

212 TOURS IN WALES
sorts. To the right a winding walk through a plantation takes
you to the mushroom walk, over rocky ground mixed with
mossy and short grassy spots, where artificial mushrooms are
scattered nicely imitative of nature, and a few of a gigantick
size serving as seats. From a projectuig point of this rocky
precipice overhanging the river you catch a fine view of a rocky
ledge over which the Ogwen after floods forms a beautiful Cataract,
and still lower down, there is a -view of another, to which you
descend by a romantick path down the sides of this little rocky
promontory. A Book is here kept in which Visitors write their
names. I was fortunate enough to return just in time to escape
the rain which fell in the mountainous region I had left.
After dinner walked to the Cathedral, which has nothing
either within or without to characterize it, and render it parti
cularly deserving notice, but its neatness. The Architecture is of
the age of Henry VII**". The only ancient monument is that ia
the south transept under a Canopy of stone, being a raised tomb
-with Cross fleury on it, said to be that of Owen Gwynedd. Opposite
to the Church on the south side of the street is the facade of an
old building entered by a pointed Arch Doorway, -with a smaU
Window of ancient stone tracery on each side, which from aU
I could collect, was once the residence of the Vicars, where they
Uved in a collegiate way. Visited the School, a large new
building, the old having been at a little distance from it nearer
the Uttle rill that divides the Vale, on the site, as is supposed,
of the old friary. The few grave stones that were preserved from
the ruins of that religious house are now inserted most injudi
ciously in an horizontal position into the walls of some of the out
buildings of the new school house. The first that occurs is
marked ¦with a cross fleury and a great sword, as thus : —

LEW— lOKWerth

Hic lacet Grufyd vap

The other is of nearly the same shape and size, and ornamented
¦with a Cross of much finer workmanship, with circular top and
curious fretwork, said to have been the tomb of the founder,
Tudor ap Grono. The other is placed upright in the WaU, being

CARNARVONSHIRE 213
the effigy of an Abbess or Nun with her Rosary — mean sculpture
on soft stone.
The Master of the School shewed us a drawing of the old
schoolroom before it was taken down. Saw the schoolhouse, and
the dormitory of the boarders, which was neat and airy.
Thursday, July [26th], 1810.— WaUied after Breakfast to Mr.
Broster's. Found him a pleasant, gentlemanly, well informed
man. He said that Tacitus mentions the Marble of Anglesey,
and had perhaps found the vein they call the Verd antique, lately
discovered there (To enquire more of this). Returned, rode to
Penrhyn, where we were most graciously received, and were
shewn the Lions in great style. The Coach and four attenduig.
Lady Penrhyn first walked ¦with us round the walk at the back
of the house, which looks to Penmaenmawr, and there we were
charmed at the gradual display of the fine ¦view ; Penmaenmawr
first shewing itseK, and a Uttle of the Sea, then Penmaenbach
obtrudes its Head, and after Orme's Head, then Llandudno
like an Island, tiU the trees in a more open place suffer the
admission of the whole bay, Seiriol Island, Penmon up to
Anglesey. Got into the Carriage, which drove to the Bath,
approached by a long Mole between two parapets, connecting the
continent with a Rock in the Sea, on which the Baths are built.
The bath house consists of a handsome vestibule, and on one
side dressing Rooms for the Ladies, on the other for the Gentle
men, with baths hot and cold, and Cocks to admit and others to
void the Water. Behind is a square enclosure with a high em
battled waU Uned and flagged with wrought slate, and in it a
large circular Bath for swimming, with steps on each side from
the different dressing rooms. At one corner of the enclosure are
steps you mount to gain a prospect of the whole bay. The whole
of this is princely, and imites magnfficence with the practicable
convenience. Returning, we stopped at a most lovely Cottage facing Pen
maenmawr, rather elevated and recessed from our path, which we
ascend to by a few steps, and passing through a Uttle slope
richly decorated with the choicest flowers, in patches shaped Uke
Baskets. The Front of the Cottage is covered with the choicest
Creepers and other flowers, and even Laburnum, producing a
pleasing effect trained as a creeper. The Vestibule is hung with
the most appropriate paper, ha^ving Niches papered with a paper
to imitate Flower pots.
The sitting Room is hung round with a variety of humorous

214, TOURS IN WALES
caricatures, a species of engraving pecuUar to England, capable
of conveying much satyre, reproof, and instruction. The
kitchen to this is equaUy entitled to notice for neatness and
comfort as all the others. The Bed chambers, as well as every
the minutest appendage, were nicety itself. We then proceeded
to the stables, the Farm yard, and the Carpenter's yard, aU on
a scale of great magnificence, and most judiciously arranged.
We were next shewn the Chapel happily embosomed in wood
with its front only open, which is of the same embattled character
¦with the Church of Llandegai, and was taken stone by stone from
the old Chapel at the old house, and here most happily disposed
of. The inside is plain but elegant. The Pulpit has three of its
side compartments filled with Bas relief in old black Oak, repre
senting our Saviour bound in one, his Crucifixion in another,
and I believe in the third his Ascension. The outside of the
building is overgrown with Ivy, so as to produce the effect of
great age. Returned to avoid the impending storm just in
time. Dined, and passed a very interesting day. Lady Penrhyn
being remarkably chatty and attentive.
Friday, July [27th], 1810. — Set off, in company ¦with the Rev.
Mr. Davies and Mr. R. Llwyd, to Tycoch to see the Stone found
there in 1806 with an inscription on it, which we had reason to
think a MilUary, and to endeavour to trace the Road by that
clue. When we arrived at the place, we had the mortification
to find that the Stone was not there which a short time before Mr.
Davies had seen. The man iVho Uved there, being interrogated
as to its disappearance, seemed most confused, and prevaricated,
altering his story every five minutes. At last he owned that the
Stone (though he said the Carpenters who were there at work
had broken it) was not put into the building, and he charged its
disappearance to those Carpenters, though I strongly suspect he
is privy to it. It was found in a Corn field just above the house,
out of which an immense quantity of stones was extracted, the
Stone being the principal disorder that this soU is subject to. The
whole field before it underwent cultivation was covered "with the
site of those circular primitive habitations called Cyttiau'r
Gwyddelod. Gloomy from our disappointment in not seeing the
supposed MilUary, we proceeded hoping to catch some bits of the
Roman road, from this new clue : think we caught it on a
Common ; but I was informed by a Peasant that the raised Une
of evener ground had formerly been a place where the trained
bards were exercised.

CAENAHVONSHlRE 215
As we were restricted to an hour for dining, we turned our faces'
homewards, and happening to meet the Mason who was the-
person that worked at the new house at Tycoch, we mentioned to '
him our disappointment about the stone. He insisted on its still '
being there, and volunteered accompanying us to the spot again.
Before we reached the house we met the Wife of the Man we h^d '
examined in the morning, who said the stone had disappeared, '
but ¦with some Uttle variation from her husband's account, yet
she said she was totally ignorant of its fate. In looking back
over this field where the stone was found, we thought we saw a
Uttle raised ridge discoverable in the waving of the Corn. Turned
put of its possible course the nearest way to Bangor:'
The inscription on the stone,'" copied from Mr. Davies of Bangor' : '
N. VMNC- i.
IMP. CAESAR. M, ' v
AVREL ANTONINVS
PIVS. n IX AVC. ARAB.
As given by old Williams :
N-VMNC-
IMP. CAESAR - M
AVRHAIMTONINVS
PIVS I 1 IX, AVCIARAB.
The Stone is a sort of free stone or Grit, of a kind not often
met ¦with, having many transparent particles mixed with the
grain. It is almost rounded into a piUar, about 4 feet in length,
and apparently broke off from a part left underground. It
Biust have been brought frotn far as there is no stone of the quaUty,
in the neighbourhood.
After dinner resumed our Horses, and rode doWn to the Mbiith
of Ogwen, but the Tide was too far in to admit of our seeing the-
faUen Cromlech said to have existed at one time there, but sa^vv;
the ruins of the Uttle chapel belonging to Penrhyn, now a cow;
house, ¦vdth nothing to mark the Chapel remaining but th©
tradition annexed to this Uttle building, as the stone door frame-
which, no doubt, it once had had given way to a wooden one, and
the East Window, if it had any, was stopped up. Besides, we
were told it had been even smaUer than it now appears, the whole
probably having been taken down, and nothing but its site to
* For this now apparently lost stone see Arch. Camb., 1846, pp. 419-20 ;
1847, pp. 50-2.— Ed.

216 TOUES IN WALES
identify it, however, furnishing a proof of its existence, and, by its
size, of the use it was appropriated to of harbouring the Corpses
of the deceased from the House of Penrhyn, tUl Wind and Tide
favoured the ferrying them over the Styx of Menai to Llanvaes.
Pursue our Evening Ride by Maes y Groes, where my reverend
companion justly remarked, from the appearance of a wide lane
pointing down to the easiest pass of the Ogwen, and pointing
exactly to Tycoch, and looking back pointing to Aber, the old
road must have gone ; and as there had from the name been a
Cross there, it was another proof of its long after being a much
frequented road, being that the Pilgrims took, and to encourage
whom in their pious journeys, it is supposed Crosses were set
up. Hence we proceed to Coch Willan, which was a long awkward
old building, one side as I suppose of what was once a Quadrangle,
entered by an old Gateway still extant, very plain and mean.
The long building, now a barn, was locked up, but through a hole
in the end partition we saw sufficient to discover that it was
open to the Roof, which was supported by wooden beams, as the
roof of a Church, resting on pilasters of wood annexed to the
side wall, carved and moulded, having escutcheons of Arms
here and there, and on one side a very deep cornice of near two
feet all of open work, like the Skreen of a rood loft, which indi
cated its having been a grand old room. The doors into it were
cased with stone arched. Fire place seemingly large ; windows
not in proportion, and only two tracery of stone. Over a Window
in the pine end of a new House close to Penrhyn Pier on a stone
the initials P.G. 1589, being the initials of Piers Griffith of Penrhyn,
a naval commander in Queen EUz. time, and used to refit his
Vessels here.
Saturday, July [28th], 1810. — Took the upper road to Car
narvon in hopes of finding what we failed to do yesterday
decisively, not ha^ving seen anything that fancy could picture into
anything Uke what we were in quest of. Yet coming to Llandd-
einiolen we could not do less than turn to see the fine Encamp
ment on the HUl of Dinorwig, lying a Uttle South of the Church
facing the Pass of Llanberis. The Summit of this HiU, affording
a considerable flat, was occupied, I conceive, by an immense
Druidical circle, for I never recollect to have seen one of the early
fortresses of defence with stone ramparts but what followed the
form of the Hill, but this is made into a perfect circle, and in
subsequent ages was chosen and made a miUtary Post, by the

CARNARVONSHIRE 217
Danes or Saxons most probably, by the addition of two very
formidable aggers of Earth having, what is very unusual, a space
of no less than 17 yards between each Agger. There is in the
most accessible part a third agger, extending only as far as the
weakness it was meant to protect. The Original circle was
marked by a double Une of upright stones set close and filled ¦with
smaU stones, forming a sort of dry wall 4 yards in its average thick
ness. It is 77 yards in Diameter, and in the middle had an
immense Carnedd, seemingly now plundered, or a raised pitched
Circle, with a Maen gorsedd in the centre, besides some other
circular work marked with stone near the grand Entrance 3 yards
wide, to which there was an obUque path up the slope, and
foUowed, in after times, by those who surrounded it ¦with Earth
works. The Entrance is at the N. West side. It is perhaps the
grandest and most singular ancient work in Wales, and of which
even Mr. Pennant scarce says nothing, seeing it with an eye that
did not understand it. Most ¦writers think it Roman ; that is
without knowing anything by which to ascertain the works of that
people. They are not incUned to suppose our primitive
Ancestors capable of any works that can now surprize or deserve
to be admired. A fine Panorama of all the country round.
Nearer Carnarvon, though we had digressed much to the right,
thought we saw on our left something Uke such a rising as the
Roman Road, if it went that way, would have presented (To be
examined nearer).
It seems Sir Griffith Llwyd inhabited Llys Dinorwig just by the
hiU, where yet may be traced a Hall 24 yards long, but this, not
ha^ving been informed of it, we overlooked.
Visited Llanddeiniolen Church. The largest yew trees I ever
saw of so fantastick a growth. A monument in the Chancel to
a Robert Wynne, M.A., of Jesus CoUege, buried 1720. Qu. if he
was the Editor of Powel's Chronicle.
At the foot of the Hill of Dinas Dinorwig is a celebrated Well,
ha^ving a small building over it roofed ¦with tile, to which were
ascribed many ¦virtues, and is called after the name of the female
Saint Deiniolen, to whom the church is dedicated.
Sunday, July [29th], 1810.— Rode to see Llys Dinorwig situate
3 or 4 miles to the South of Dinas Dinorwig, very near the Lake
of Llanberis, in a hollow amongst Rocky KnoUs, formerly weU
wooded, but now showing only stunted remains of wood. I
found adjoining a Cottage, the ruins of a large old building, of
strong Masonry. The principal portion was one of the extreme

218 TOURS IN WALES
Pine ends, within which there was an Area overrun with tangled
gro^wd;h and grass, which in the clear to another stump of Wall
opposite measured about 20 paces in length and in breadth 10.
There appeared by the Pine end to have been no Room above this,
but this hall was open to the Roof, which must have formed a
very large apartment. Farther on adjoining it, in the same Une,
a room of smaller dimensions, and other apartments in different
directions by the foundations to be traced. Saw an arched
doorway almost choaked up ¦with Rubbish.
I am incUned to think that none of the great Mansions of that
age, not even the royal palaces (for this was said to be one of the
residences of the princes of Wales), were lofted, and chiefly
consisted of one great hall, a small retiring room, the dormitory,
and kitchen ; and it is but reasonable to suppose that the Princes,
who could not, engaged as they were in continual warfare, be
long stationary, had several temporary palaces, in which they
kept some sort of establishment, that they could not be at a loss
for a resting place at no great distance from any situation they
might be thrown into. This was given by Edward I, with great
possessions about it, to Sir Griffith Ll^wyd, who first brought the
news of the Queen's being deUvered of a Prince at Carnarvon
to the King then at Rhuddlan. This Wallace of his country was
Son of Rhys ap Gruffydd ap Ednyved Vychan. Heard on my
return, from a Peasant who a few years back was employed to
make a new road on the side of Dinas Dinorwig, that there was a
brass Cross here dug up, but too much cankered to be preserved.
Monday, July 30th, 1810. — Examined the Castle within, which
is 472 feet long from East to West within the clear. The grand
Entrance — over which is the Statue of Edward under a rich
canopy, with his hand on his sword in the act of either dra^wing
or sheathing it, some part of the blade being seen — is on the
North side, and another smaller entrance called the Queen's at
the East end, entered by a drawbridge, formerly from without,
and opening to a platform or landing place of a higher level than
the other part of the inner Area, and from which you descended
by steps, now worn away, and succeeded by a grassy decUvity.
The interior consisted of a base and an inner court, and that inner
court again subdivided. The Eagle Tower at the West end is
polygonal of ten sides, and is 4 stories high. The basement story
has no fire place, and had a pillar in the centre to support the
first floor. The Rooms above all but the upper had borrowed
lights, and all had fire places, but square apertures without

CARNARVONSHIRE 219
projections, as in the other towers. The Room shown for that
where the Queen was brought to bed is small and dark, but has a
fire place, and is a thoroughfare, therefore cannot be supposed to
have been the scene of her Accouchement by any person who
considers and reasons at aU. It might have been a room for her
attendant in waiting or the Nurse, just without one of the great
Rooms of the Bastion, where most Ukely she was deUvered. The
Thickness of the walls in this Bastion is on an Average 9 feet thick.
Ascended one of the small towers by a corkscrew staircase to see
the Eagle on one of the Battlements which gives name to the tower,
but the Stone, being of a quality to be much affected by weather,
is so worn that scarce any Ukeness remains of what it is said to be,
and looks Uke the Mummy of an Eagle. Every battlement is
marked by some ornament — ^Warriors' heads with Helmets on
and Helmets on others without heads. The Bastion which they
say contained the state apartments, which was Ughted by
handsome windows of good tracery, is Ukewise a decagon, had
3 stories, each ha-ving a fire place. The basement story, 2 hand
some -vwndows. The first floor, one principal, and the Attic 3.
There was a Gateway separating the 2 Courts, and had 2 Port-
culUses. The Grand Entrance had 2 PortculUses without the
great door, and two -within. To the West of the great Entrance,
and close to one of its bastions, the kitchen was said to be situate,
and I observed near a Groove running along the WaU, through
which a leaden pipe went for conveying water, part of which still
exists, just above a Stone Cistern or sink, into which it opened,
and might have been the SkuUery to the Kitchen. There are 7
large Bastions, but none round, and 9 small ones issuing from them
and higher. The Walls without and -within are all of cut stone.
The old House in one of the cross streets has over Windows and
Doors, W.G. — 1590 — and there is one coat over a chinmey piece in
stucco, bearing Ednyved Vychan's Arms -with several quarterings,
and in another room over the Chimney piece the Arms of Queen
EUzabeth, well done and in good preservation. There can be no
doubt but that this, as well as the Plas ma-wr at Conway, was
buUt at the same time, and for the same purpose, though that at
Conway is larger and more highly finished.
Tuesday, July 31st, 1810.— Visited the Garrison Chapel in the
to-wn situate at the N. West Angle of it close to the WaUs, the
aperture for the bell being part of the Bastion at that Angle.
It is a long building, with two side Aisles, separated by two
Rows of pointed Arches, 5 each side, the Chancel divided by a
larger pointed Arch. 2 isTiches for Holy Water, one on the South

220 TOURS IN WALES
side of the Communion Table, the other neatly -wrought at the
upper end of the South Aisle. Windows of cut stone tracery.
At the upper end of the Nave a regular set of old carved Oak
seats, omamented with work exactly representing tracery of the
different Windows. The building seems coeval -with the Castle.
Went across the Water to Coed Helen, or as old Williams caUs
it. Coed Alun, in order to find out the celebrated Echo, which
repeats a whole sentence distinctly, but could not find it, o-wing
either to the growth of the trees since I knew it, or some alteration,
perhaps in the Ruins of the Castle or other place, which might
have generated it. After dinner rode to Beddgelert. In our
way stopped at LlanbebUc, the Parish Church of Carnarvon.
The external indicates no great age, though the Church itself is
certainly of great antiquity. It is cruciform, but has no Arch
but one, that which separates the Chancel from the Aisle, belong
ing to Vaenol family. In this Aisle is an Altar tomb on which
are two Effigies recumbent, a Griffith, son of Sir W™. Griffith, K*.
and Margaret his Wife, Daur of Sir John Wynne ap Meredith.
They are of Marble and of excellent workmanship. The Mat
they ly on is fine sculptured, which, under the Male, is rolled up at
his head for a pillow, and at his feet to rest on, whereas the female
has a pillow under her head, with a Uon at her feet. The sides are
of Marble in Compartments filled -with kneeUng figures of their
children, which appeared to be numerous, having their names
running round the Rim of the Monument above their heads,
which by the abuse it has met with from Schoolboys, when there
was a School kept in the Church, has been terribly mutilated
and scratched. The Monument was built as it is expressed,
A.D. 1597. The Chancel of the Church is roofed with Oak, and
not inelegantly wrought in square compartments, and in which
there are several neat mural marble tablets, but all rather modern.
Proceed, and pass by Nant Mill, a pretty Uttle scene, which Sir
R"^ Hoare made a sketch of, and which has very often employed
the Pencil of Tourists and Artists. Cwellyn Lake is a very fine
piece of Water, of an extent perhaps to give it the 3'' or 4*'' place
among the Lakes of Wales. The Boundaries on all sides are high
but grassy to their summits, only on the south side near its
Embouchure a fine broken bluff point projects from the Mountain
behind it, called Castell Cidwm, not from the remains of any
building seen here, but from its pecuUar form, and the tradition
of there having been anciently a fortress here for guarding the
pass, which, just at the place where the Lake discharges itself, is
very narrow. After the Water discharged has passed Nant

CARNARVONSHIRE 221
MiU, where it forms a pretty cataract, it flows for some Miles
through level meadows in a tamer style than perhaps any other
River in North Wales, and it takes the name of Gwjrrvai. On
the North side of the Lake is Nant, the ancient seat of Sir Robert
WilUams's family, situated at the foot of Moel Eilio, a high hill of
immense extent, regularly rounded and cloathed with fine
Verdue to the Summit. The Church before you come to Nant
MiU is called Bettws Garmon. There is a farm near called
Ystrad, most probably from the Roman Via strata passing
through it. A dreary ride hence to Bedd Gelert, passing a second
lake caUed [Llyn y Gader].
Wednesday, [Aug^*. 1^*], 1810. — ^Rainy Mornuig. Within doors
writing. After dinner Evening fine, and entered the Vale through
which the Glaslyn holds its course, and just at its junction with
the Colwyn. The whole of this Vale is extremely interesting,
consisting of fine Meadows through which the Glaslyn flows
with as Uttle rapidity as the Gwyrfai, after it has passed Nant
MiU, with high rocky boundaries on each side, broken into a
variety of forms, and here and there sprinkled with wood, though
generally too bare and wild. Near the middle of the Vale rises
the noted hill Dinas Emrys, the subject of Poetical flction and
legendary Lore, and to visit which my curiosity on that account
was amazingly excited. The Hill itself is a beautiful object,
being almost precipitous on three sides, and prettily clothed with
wood, but exclusive of this, much as it has been celebrated, it has
no claim on notice, all that MerUn and Vortigern might have
built having disappeared, for though I took the pains to reach
the summit, I found there fainter vestiges of ancient Works than
on any of our heights which has had the reputation of being
crowned with an encampment ; and the Area at top, which
Pennant talks of to have appeared to him, must have been the
effect of Merlin's wand, or to have been concealed from me, for
its summit is fuU of rocky inequaUties, and there is scarce any
flat, and it was in vain that I laboured to find anything that I
could fancy to merit the name of Cell y Dewiniaid.
After passing this I come to the beautiful Lake of Llyn Dinas,
fiUing the whole Vale, and perfectly land-locked, having on one
side a Une of lofty and almost precipitous rocky boundary and a
wild but tamer rocky one on the other, with at the extreme end
some fine meadows and beautiful Woods with a neat House of one
[not fiUed in]. Here the Vale of Nanhwynen begins, which by
everyone who has written of it, is justly admired, but as it has

222 TOURS IN WALES
lately received very considerable improvement, increases in
beauty, and cannot be spoken of too highly, for to compose it,
the grand and the beautiful are most happily united, all that the
subUmest Mountain scenery. Cataracts pouring down on aU
sides. Woods of every growth. Rivers of the most pleasing
character, and the most: perfect yet cheerful seclusion, can
produce. This secluded Vale terminates in a most lovely lake,
Llyn G-wynnen, having on one side a noble Mountain rising
perpendicularly from it, and on the other side the woods of Havod
.L-wyfog. Opposite to the middle of the lake, and not far from
its banks, is a small enclosure -within which are the Ruins of a
Chapel of Ease to Bedd Gelert. There is a tradition that it was
founded by Madoc, the son of Owen Gwynedd, and that here, in
this secluded spot, he stifled his feelings at the indignities he
suffered, and formed his plan of migration. With the sight of
¦ this spot very interesting reflections must naturaUy be associated.
N.B. — Saw a Mountain Ash grovring in a tuft of grass which
had contracted Earth just at the edge of a crack running hori
zontally through a great stone, which happened to strike its roots
in such a way that one fibre entered the fissure on one side, and
one on the other, and by the immense force of its vegetative
power, has fairly lifted the upper part of the Stone at least foi? 3
Inches, and will I make no doubt fairly lift it off in time.
Thursday, [Aug'* 2"'!], 1810.^Rode early intending to have
followed Mr. Pennant's steps to Cwm Dily, but found before I
came to Llyn Gwynen that I had mistaken the place of his
ascent, which I thought was by the fall which spreads itself in a
white sheet over the Rock which forms the shelf for the Cataract
almost opposite the new house called Plas G-wynnen. Leaving
my horse at the farmhouse at the foot of the Mountain, with a
shepherd boy for my guide, and induced by the very romantick
appearance of the opening the water of the Cascade issued from,
I began my ascent, and after winding backwards and forwards for
two Miles, came to a moory plain of very small extent producing
a kind of short hay, which had been harvested. An amphitheatre
of broken crags of great heights surrounded this little spot, and
the River which issued from some Lakes behind these crags
murmured through in a very narrow stream. I found, without a
guide, there was no doing anything effectually, and that to see
what I wished, Cwm Dily, I ought to have gone farther up the
Vale, for 3 or 4 Miles, to get a proper ascending place. I enquired

CARNARVONSHIRE 223
if they resided in the Havodty which I saw on theiheights for any
length of time in summer. I was informed that, during the Hay
season, they brought food with them, and were there all day,
but always descended to sleep.
Returned, not having profited much by my toilsome excursion.
Visited the Church at Bedd Gelert. Nave and Chancel in one,
two Arches on clustered columns, which formerly led to a North
transept, that side now being occupied by an Aisle that runs the
whole length of the Church. Within the two Arches there is a
place at the east end of the Aisle enclosed by what appears to have
been the skreen that once separated Nave from Chancel. Within
the Church nothing worth notice but the Monument of Lloyd of
Havod Lwyvog {vide Pennant for inscription), on a small tablet
of Oak framed, and inscribed with raised letters ; as Ukewise the
Pont, the only one perhaps of the kind, which consists of a square
piece of Masonry, surmounted by a square Oak box, in which
there is a large circular pebble having an excavation for the
Baptismal Water, bedded in Gravel. The East Window is formed
of 3 Lancet openings. In the churchyard are tombs indicative
of very considerable longevity. At the old publick house there is
kept a large Pewter Flagon called the Beddgelert Pint, with a
cover, being 8 Inches deep and 4 and |- wide at the mouth, the
vessel widening downwards. Whoever can grasp it with one
hand when full, and drink its contents at a draught, pays nothing ;
but the Landlord of the Inn satisfies the Tenant. I saw it and was
told the feat, though so very improbable, has been done.
Stop at Aberglaslyn, and saw one Fish without success attempt
ing to surmoimt the Uttle fall above the bridge, consisting of one
Arch, and thrown over a deep part of the river. The Boundary
of the East side of the River is uncommonly grand, being of
vast height, rising perpendicularly from the River, precipitous
and broken and beautifully coloured and diversified with heath,
straggling growth, and here and there a patch of Verdure, to tempt
the pendant sometimes to his destruction. Opposite to the bridge
is an adit of a copper mine now working by some Cornish adven
turers, who are laying out a great deal of money there, as if there
was a great prospect of advantage. The Ride to Tremadock,
the Estuary being full, was very fine, but much inferior to that
from Dolgelly to Barmouth. The Mountains of that tract between
Pont Aberglaslyn and Tanybwlch, with the Knicht at their head,
the most pointed of all our mountains, were clear, of a fine colour,
and appeared to great advantage. I always admired the range
of rocks forming the North side of the Vale of Tremadock ; but

224 TOURS IN WALES
my admiration from repeated visits was rather increased than
diminished. The town since I saw it last was somewhat enlarged, and
opposite the principal Inn and Town HaU was a large opening,
a kind of a square, in the centre of which was a Cross and a town
pump, which hereafter may be improved into a pubUck Conduit.
After Dinner walked down to see the new embankment, a
gigantick undertaking, and which would have appalled any other
genius than that of the Gentleman to whose enterprising spirit we
owe it. (The detail hereafter.) We returned through long
Avenues of young trees across the flat before his house, where on
every side we saw plantations of the most thri-ving kind grown up
to touch each other from the seedling bed, which -wiU render it
necessary to cut down a dozen at least for every one that must be
left to stand, those that are to be sacrificed being too large to
plant out with probabiUty of success. What a pity that he had
not invited his neighbours to have taken the superflux that the
wild and steril knolls of Evionydd might have she-wn a more
attractice surface. These formal, long, and narrow Avenues are
miserable ornaments. I never saw such abundance of Toads,
which must ever be the case where there is so much stagnate
Water and foul Air engendered — the natural consequence. The
ditches of this reclaimed ground are kept in a very slovenly
state, and if not more attended to the land must soon relapse
into its former moory and boggy state. The only reason that
can be assigned for this neglect of Mr. Maddock's is that his
main object, the new embankment, where he has so much at
stake, occupies his whole thought, for his present motto, with
respect to that, may be totus in hoc sum.
Friday, [Aug'* 3'^'i], 1810.— Set off for PwlUiely. CaUed at
G-wynfryn. EUis not at home, but expected every hour. Ride
very uninteresting till you come to Cricciaeth, whose Castle
breaks in on the view with great effect for a Mile before you
approach it. The Village, though a contributory borough, is a
most wretched place. The principal house (and bad is the best)
belongs to Symllyn. The Castle is perched on the Summit of a
high hill proj ecting into the sea, and at high tides ahnost insulatad.
The side which fronts the Road presents a Gateway between
two round bastions, the entrance being exactly North East. It was
not very lofty or very large. There is one side of the embattled
Wall that enclosed the Area pretty perfect, but there appear on
the North and North West sides ruins of buildings that extended
beyond the present curtain wall, as if the original Castle had been

CARNARVONSHIRE 225
of greater extent, the present being contracted and new cast by
Edward. Towards the Landside before the Entrance it was
strengthened by two very high ramparts, and in some places by
three ; towards the Sea it required none. Its origin is not
ascertained, but I conceive it to be one of the largest and strongest
of our British walled fortresses, after we had begun to imitate
the Norman mode of defence {Vide Pennant's Account). In our
way to PwUheU, stop at Aber Arch. Though Pennant calls it
the Harbour of the Coffin, I think it impUes only the Embouchure
of the River Arch that flows at the foot of the knoll on which the
Church is placed, and here discharges itself into the salt tide.
The Church is divided length-wise into two parts by a row of neat
pointed Arches, very light, and something similar to those at
Bryn Eurin. There is a date over one of the Pillars in stucco,
1615, and on the opposite side, a large R only. Within the
Skreen separating the Chancel a curious set of old oak Stalls,
-with reading desk before, the upright at the ends finished into
figures holding Uttle escutcheons on their breasts, but now
effaced, if ever charged with Arms. I fancied I saw on one
3 Che-vn:ons. The East window was handsome, of wrought stone,
and had a great deal of painted glass in it ; but the few fragments
that remain throw no Ught on anything.
Saturday, [Aug'* 4*"], 1810.— Set off after breakfast from PwU
heU (weather very hot and oppressive), to visit Porthdynlley.n and
Carn Madryn. Near Bodeon forced to shelter from a sudden
shower under a shady Avenue leading to that old mansion, but
our covering, thick as it was, of over-Arching Lime trees, not
having shelter enough to keep the wet off, the Rain being so
violent, we were obUged to seek shelter in the house, to which we
were politely invited by the ReV^. Mr. Roberts, then occupying it
as tenant. In our way to the Right saw Bodvell, backed with a
vast Mass of wood of several acres, very thriving Oaks of about
40 years growth, not very sheltered, and therefore a proof how
well trees will grow anywhere if planted thick.
The Shower past, and the wind shifting to North, we prosecuted
our excursion, and over a charming road reached our place of
destination, which we were deUghted with, being a fine bay in
a perfect crescent, one of its horns being the Eifl Mountain,
which boldly projects into the Ocean, and the other, the head of
PorthdinUeyn, infinitely lower, but sufficiently sheltery, under
cover of which a new pier has been built, and further in a large
new Inn, -with reference to Packets meant to be established

226 TOURS IN WALES
there by a Company of Gentlemen chartered for that purpose.
The greater part of the boundary of this bay is a high ridge and
sandy soil, so high as to shut out completely every land view from
this bay but its own boundaries, thereby rendering it without
exception one of the most desirable Sea bathing places imaginable,
as the Sands when the tide is out affords a deUghtful semicircular
ride of at least 3 or 4 Miles, and gives you immediately for bathing
deep and clear water. Besides its whole extent, a very singular
property, it has no influx of fresh water. In itself it possesses the
most perfect seclusion and sea prospect, and yet is in a well
inhabited vicinity, and has everywhere fine rides about it, several
scenes of the most interesting character to the Antiquary and the
Historian, and within a Morning's ride of aU the principal points
of attraction in the most romantick part of N. Wales. Ha-ving
gratified ourselves -with the view of this charming marine
situation, we directed our course to Carn Madryn, the only place
in all Giraldus's route which his learned editor. Sir R. H., my
companion, had not visited. Not thinking it proper to pass
across Mr. Parry Jones's fields -without asking his permission, I
rode up to the house of Madryn, and was politely received by the
proprietor, who insisted on accompanying us to the Summit of
the Mountain. After passing two fields we came to a fine sheep
walk, over which there was a most noble terrace leading to the
Mountain. When we had come to the most accessible part of the
Mountain, a -winding avenue, and, undoubtedly, the original,
presented itself, and we ascended very gradually, making several
turns through rows of stones, and circular and other enclosures,
Cyttiau'r Gwyddelod, on either hand. The principal entrance
was marked by two large stones, then lying down, but which
evidently had been erect, and opened into an Area of very
considerable extent, covered with sites of buildings of various
forms and sizes, and protected by circumvallation of loose
stones, whose course, o-wing to the confusion of Crags they unite
with and pass through, is difficult to ascertain. On some of the
principal points of rock, skirting this Area are the ruins of what
might have been towers built -without mortar. The View from it
is most charming and extensive, particularly of that part of
Lleyn from it to Bardsey Island. I could see from the top that
there had been habitations all round its base, and on a flat to the
West of its base a druid Circle, -with the Maen Gorsedd in the
Centre. On the whole, this appears to be as early and as magni
ficent an establishment as any I have seen ; and, though taken
possession of by the sons of Owen Gwynedd, must be ascribed to

CARNARVONSHIRE 227
a period of much more remote Antiquity. Having mentioned
my plan and -wish of visiting Bardsey, my Cicerone poUtely
proffered his assistance to faciUtate my Plans, and gave me an
invitation to his house, by which means I shall now be able to
explore the promontory most thoroughly.
After Dinner, charming evening from PwllheU to Gwynfryn to
Tea. Sunday, Aug'* [5*''], 1810. — Rode out with our Host and a Mr.
B  in quest of the three Cromlechs mentioned by Pennant
to have been on the ground of Ystimcegid. We first, a Uttle
way from G-wynfryn in a moory meadow adjoining the stony
common we come into from his grounds, visit a Cistvaen,
evidently one of the sides, consisting of a single stone, being
perfect, but the largest and finest I ever saw. The incumbent
Stone looks like a great Mushroom, is about 11 feet long (that is,
near four times the length of my stick), and near 9 feet across
(that is, 3 lengths of my stick). The other side of y'' Cistvaen and
the ends composed of more than single stones. There is near it
a Uttle farm called Tyddin Madoc goch. Perhaps this might have
been the Sepulchre of a Chief of that name. Farther on on
Ystim Cegyd land saw the great Cromlech, in which we were not
disappointed, which rests on 4 upright stones all touching, rather a
singularity, there being in general 3 supporters actuaUy in contact,
and one a supernumerary, not quite touching. The incumbent
stone (a circumstance I never observed before) had a regular
surface, and was of the same thickness everywhere, about 14
Inches ; in shape, nearly triangular. Greatest length, 12 feet
and J, by 9| greatest breadth ; the highest supporter nearly 2
yards. I enquired of all the farmers, particularly the man who
occupied that farm, if he had ever seen or heard of 3 together,
but aU told me they were sure there never had been such a thing.
In my way to this Cromlech, at Talar wen an imperfect circle,
parts very entire, j^ other parts worn down, the earth having been
for ages pared away for firing. A Maen Gorsedd in the centre.
At Ystimcegyd see nothing of the old house, but foundations of
walls were pointed out. It seems the old Church road from Dol-
benmaen passed through the House, and every person passing
was entitled to a Viaticum left on a sheU in the passage, which
was caUed SbyT,*or some such thing, pro-vided he was taU enough
* The old meaning of ysbur, pillar, post, is now obsolete. Pughe, ui his
Diet., adds, " a short post or supporter of a shelf, in ancient houses,
projecting into the floor, in the form of a skreen, and used to put by such
Q2

228 TOURS IN WALES
to reach the shelf. The pitched road is now plainly to be seen,
and by the site sho-wn me of the old Mansion, it must have gone
through the centre of the house. The farmer told me that
the real name of the house was Ystim cythiedig, the concealed
ridge, it having been once deeply covered -with Woods, a former
o-wner of it having changed his situation more exposed than this
for one more secure, to protect him from his neighbours, at a time
when family feuds in this Country were carried so far as generaUy
to end in Bloodshed and murder.
From Ystim cegid along the heights in sight of Dolbenmaen,
close to which there is a Tommen, and pass by a spot where
tradition has fixed an ancient residence of Collwyn ap Tangno
called Cevyn y Van. Saw Brynkyr at a Uttle distance, once the
residence of a family of that name, now extinct, the property
lately purchased by an East Indian. Called at Clennennau,
though once the habitation of a family of some Note,the Morrises,
and afterwards of Sir John Owen, bearing no marks of any
family consequence, the Windows being small and mean, and not
a single doorway even arched. Heard of a circle at Cevjmcoch,
and another at Cwm mawr, nearer Penmorva, both which Pennant
mentions, and which the Farmers represented as not very large.
Gwynvryn, from its name, as well as situation, was most likely a
principal Gorsedd ; and tradition has preserved the memory of a
Cromlech that once stood in a field near the summit of the Demesne.
Monday, Aug* 6*^, 1810. — A party being formed to visit Nant
Gwrtheyrn, we were all in readiness early and set off -with weather
most favourable. We were to call at a Mr. WilUams's, a Clergy
man at Tynycoed, who was to be our Cicerone. Under his
Convoy we got into the road for the place of our destination,
leaving Tre'r Ca-wri on the Right, and the Mountain of Moel Carn
Guwch, crowned -with a stupendous Carnedd, and proceed to
PistyU, a smaU church at the bottom of a little dell just above the
Sea. There is close to the church a curious old house in which
the farmer Uves, with Windows of a singular size and form,
being small, but of cut stone. Part of the building at the back of
the present house was meant for the principal entrance and
the chief rooms, but the tradition is that it was never so far
victuals as is in present consumption." The word is a borrowing of the
English speer, a wooden partition or screen, a chimney-post (cf. spar),
.still used in the dialects (e.g., Cheshire), and it had at one time the meaning
of buifet. There is a proverbial saying in North Wales, " Rhowch y spar
ar y 'sbur," — Put the spare on the speer. — En.

CARNARVONSHIRE 229
finished as to be covered in, nor was the part that is covered in
ever finished as to ceiUng or any decoration. The chimneys are
remarkably high above the Roof, and the house is much higher
than the Mansions of this Country. It was part of the estate
of the Bodwells, and left by the Lady who was the last proprietor
to a M"^ Harvey, in whose descendants it now is. I could get no
account of the time or the name of the builder or anything of its
history. Hence had a good view of the upper part of the Welsh
Tarpeian called Craig y Llam, a kind of Tarpeian Rock.
The farmer of this place told me his Ancestors for 200 years
had occupied this place, and they had found it at that time in the
present state. With this man for our guide, we struck out of this
dingle, and after a gradual ascent got to the summit of that
heathy tract from which the Eifl Mountains rise, and rode for a
Mile over one of the finest natural Terraces that can be conceived,
from which, looking back, we see all the Point of Lleyn from Sea
to Sea, and yet at such a distance as that every place may be
clearly distinguished, with the beautiful semicircular bay of
PorthdinUeyn, and that of Nevyn, of a similar shape but smaUer,
within it, and the Rocks that, from the South side of the Pro
montory, seem in a line to bound it together with all the other
insulated land Rocks, taking quite a new position, and producing
the most pleasing effect. S* Tudwall's Islands distinct and
separate. Bardsey seen over the extreme point, with the cheerful
patches of cultivation below you as far as the eye can reach,
acquiring new richness and beauty from being contiMsted -with
the black heath that covers the Region all round the Reifi.
We were now got to the Chasm called Vortigern's Valley, to
which we descend by a tedious and uncommonly -winding path,
which at the foot of the path takes a most serpentine form,
and from above looks Uke a snake coiled up. To the right of
this -winding path the boundary is almost a precipitous Rock,
over which, through fissures in it in many places, there is an oozing
of water, which, uniting at the bottom, forms the Uttle babbUng
riU that waters the Vale on one side. The side we descend the
HiU is one lava of Stones, with Fern growing between, but on the
other the flat is laid out in Uttle enclosures under hay and corn,
whUst the accUvity and the upland serve as a sheep walk. There
are two farms on the Eifl side of the brook, and one on the Nevyn
side on a tract where the Vale widens a Uttle just above the Sea.
About midway do-wn the Vale, I was she-wn the ruins of a
building overgro-wn -with briers and weeds, placed due East and
West, in a field caUed stiU the churchyard, so that there is reason

230 TOURS IN WALES
to beUeve that here was a Chapel under PistyU, which certainly
is the Mother church, and where this secluded colony bury their
dead. I Ukewise perceived in two or three places some of the
early enclosures called Cyttiau Gwyddelod. Just at the bottom
where the Valley terminates at the Sea, to fill up the pass into it
by way of protection, stands a Mount of natural soil of grassy
turf, but evidently rendered more insular by a little Art, so
employed as not only to give its sides a greater slope, but to
connect it with the side of the Hill to which it is attached by a
narrower Isthmus.
This most probably was the Tumulus referred to in Kennet,
which certainly appears to have been dug into and disturbed ; and
prior to his interment there, might have been surmounted by a
small Castelet, in which Vortigern might have taken refuge.
I think that the 8 ribs that Pennant mentions are casualties
produced by time, water, and the natural sinking of the soil of
that sort, which is sand and gravel. The top of the Mount is
flat, and the Area may be about Quarter of an Acre. On one
side, occupying about one third of it, is the site of an ancient
building, and in the centre still appears the cavity, like the space
of an old Cistvaen, where on digging into it a Skeleton was
found, supposed to be Vortigern's. Pennant's description of it
is very accurate, but I think he has presented it more horrid
than it really is. That it is the most perfect and profound seclu
sion that can be conceived is true, but in finishing his picture he
has used colours too sombre. It was some years ago a place
noted for smuggUng, and that may account for the profound
attrition of the path leading to it, which never could be produced,
by the inhabitants themselves, in the ordinary wear and tear
occasioned by the rare use of it. I saw many goats about the
rocky portion of its boundary.
I was shewn on my return from it a large oblong stone, across
the path, called Bedd Dwgan, said to cover a Man of that name.
Return under the awful shade of the Effi and Tre'r Ca-wri and by
Llanaelhaiarn to Gwynvryn. Before I come to LlanaeLhaiarn,
on the Roadside, is a fine Well within a large square Curtilage,
with a stone bench all round it, raised, no doubt, in consequence
of its reputation and sanctity ; but I could get no particular
history of it. The Church had nothing in it worth notice. Said
to be dedicated to a Saint characterized by the name of Iron
brow. Tuesday, Aug* [7th], 1810. — Confined all day with rain.

CARNARVONSHIRE 231
Wednesday, Aug* [8th], 1810. — Day fair, but dark, and windy
and cold. Took the road to Clynnog, through a dreary country,
with the only thing that could give any interest to it, hid from our
sight by clouds, the Mountains. After crossing a pretty high
ridge that stretches towards the higher Mountains from the base
of the Eifl, we suddenly come in sight of the beautiful and fertile
slope of Clynnog to the Sea, and hail the appearance of the tower
of its Church, embosomed in Wood. Pass a pubUck house on
entering the Village, -with a most picturesque and branching
Ash tree before it. Pass the ViUage to see the Druid relic in a
field belonging to Bachwen, which we found in the middle of a
field of oats, after wading through it. The incumbent stone was
supported by four uprights, one not touching. 3 sticks long,
f my stick greatest thickness ; thinner much at the other end.
Its decUnation W : N : W : . Its surface was full of small hollows —
tolkie, as Ed. Llwyd calls it. Hence I visit the Church, then open
and under repair. It is a cruciform building, consisting of a Nave,
chancel, and two transepts. The Chancel is separated from the
transept, as is the Nave, by a large pointed Arch, the transept
having one undivided roof. Within the chancel, on each side the
Entrance through the skreen of the rood loft, are old Oak StaUs,
having a reading desk before. Under the seats of the stalls are
carved ornaments, the same on all, and not as usual exhibiting
grotesque and indecent designs. On the South side of Altar, which
you ascend by a Dais, are three handsome stone stalls for the
officiating priests.
On the South side of the Church, there is a building called
Capel Beuno, where it is supposed Beuno was buried, his tomb
being tiU of late years she-wn there ; of the Altar kind, covered
as some say with wood, as others say, with stone, without any
inscription ; land to which much sanctity was attached. I
presume this was a Chantry Chapel raised over the Saint. The
building seems to be nearly of the same date with the larger
Church. In this Chapel a School is kept. Connecting the
Church and Chapel there is a passage, curiously roofed with an
Arch of Stone tiled over one another, and is said to have been
used as a place of confinement for the disorderly people of the
ViUage. Over the Porch there seems to have been a tower, as
high as the Nave, but now imcovered.
In our way to Carnarvon, about a Mile on our Road, observe a
long stone of a curious grit, with a cross in a Circle on one end,
which appears to have been a tomb, or shaft of a cross. Pass
Tynycoed. So after crossing the Llyfni, leave on the right

232 TOURS IN WALES
Plas newydd, in a Wood of very old stunted Oaks, grown stag-
horned by age, and many decayed to the stumps. An offset
from Glynllyvon. Then digress at the grand entrance to see
the latter, situate in the midst of very extensive woods, and some
of fine growth ; but the house is buried in a deep hollow, and from
it nothing can be seen but its offices. It is not a very small
house, and of brick. Turn out of the road to Dinas, which from
its appearance, as far as I could judge from that part that is
accessible, I would almost pronounce Roman.
Llyniau Nanlle.
Saturday, July [31'*], 1813.* — ^Mounted our Horses to see those
celebrated Lakes. I say celebrated, as on their Margin Edward
the 1'* after his subjugation of Wales, and whilst his palace of
Carnarvon Castle was building, and probably after, to get rid
of the din of Court and a Garrison, sought retirement ; and
the ingenious painter Wilson took his much admired view of
Snowdon. Pass Llyn Cader, and turn out of the Carnarvon
Road at a bridge about 3 Miles beyond Beddgelert, to the left,
and by a winding way, leaving Llyn Tywarchen on our right,
enter the Pass to the Lakes, which is very striking ; on our Right
a very curious Rocky Knoll rises, abundantly seamed with white
spar ; and all the right boundary beyond this a long ridge, very
high, grassy below, with a summit precipitous and broken and
much serrated ; on the left the grand point of Carn droscoed, and
two very singular Ravines or Craters. Begin the descent to
the Vale, having now a sight of the Lake, under a very high and
broken mountain, whose bowels seem well stored with Copper
Ore, at the base of which by the ruins now appearing, there
appears to have been a large old Work, now revived further on,
but when we passed it, I suppose on account of the hay harvest,
every sort of operation was suspended. The Mine past, we ascend
a road evidently new made with reference to it, over a Uttle knoll,
and soon sink again to a fiat, which for a mile slopes charming
towards the lakes from the hills at their back, forming a recess
most deUghtfully wooded -with large old trees, and many grown
stag-horned, and totaUy decayed by age.
Ride on to the principal Farm, called Nanlle, certainly the
remains of what was a Mansion of some consequence in its day,
* MS. 2.49. This is the earliest date in Part IV of the Carnarvonshire
Journal — 8 years before the author's death. Part III is missing ; and
Part II above ends with August 8, 1810. — En.

CARNARVONSHIRE 233
as its cut stone door ways, an Orchard, and the whole demesne
well planted in a parkish style, show. Below the house projects
a meadowy tract gently incUning towards the Isthmus that
separates the lakes, which is of a wettish moory quality, and is
entered by some kind of a Uttie low bridge still called Pont Bala
Deulyn — ^the projecting flat bearing that name, which was
given it in the time of Edward, and hereabouts undoubtedly was
the place of that Monarch's residence. The people now occupying
the farm had not long been in it, and though -with more curiosity
about them than faUs to the share of people in their condition,
yet having succeeded those of a very different, who Uved in a
most sordid way, and only vegetated, if anything like a vestige of
antiquity ever had existed, it was destroyed. On the known
and seemingly hereditary story of the Kings having resided
there, the present tenants had taken some pains to investigate
everything that could corroborate the fact, but had never been
able to discover any coins or armour, or anything that could have
any relation to the state of its former possessors. They told me
that they had heard there had been for many years a large
lump of soUd Gold thro-wing about the house, and passing from
one occupier to another, ignorant of its value, or of the metal,
and that about a 100 years ago a M"^' Vaughan who Uved there,
satisfied as to its quaUty, sold it for 60 guineas ; and besides
that, somewhere about the Lake, there was part of a gold chair
found, or more probably, part of a chair with gilding on it ;
and they had Uke-wise heard that affixed to the house formerly
there was a large brass plate, with letters on it, probably giving
some account of the place in its time of Royalty.
Tremadock.
Sunday, Aug* 1'*, [1813]. — Rode to see the patriotick work
at this place. Ride charming, along what, the last time I saw
it, the margin of the Traeth mawr, covered with the Tide, now
dry, -with an exception to the River. Took particular notice of
the rocky boundary to the right of entrance into the Vale of
Tremadock, which, every time I see it, seems to assume greater
grandeur, and, as Sir Richard Hoare says, is the finest piece of
Rocky ridge in all Wales, broken into the most picturesque and
majestick forms, and here and there most beautifully clad with
Ivy and some tangled growth, and in many parts most tre
mendously projecting, with a lava of loose stones all the way
a,t its base, and some immense detached fragments, the con-

234 TOURS IN WALES
sequence of some violent convulsion the world must have under
gone. The Rock is of a fine colour, being the hard granite,
much of which formerly was sent to London for paving the
streets. The young plantation, since I last saw it, much grown,
particularly the Larch, the plantation of which is become very
general in the Counties of Carnarvon and Merioneth, but in all
the plantations round Tremadock, too Uttle care is taken to thin
them in time, being so close that they suffocate each other. In
short, everything here wears the air of neglect and approaching
ruin. The great Inn shut up and out of repair. The Church, a neat
building formed of great stones as is usual in this Country, but so
hollow, and the joints so ill filled up, that wind must blow through
it ; and the spire very incongruously built of yellow freestone
nicely wrought, perched on a stump of a Tower, of the grey
granite, ill put together. The Gateway of Coed is composition,
most superb and elegant, the ornaments uncommonly rich, and
the whole not at all in accord with the other parts of the building.
Not a great way from the Church, which I beUeve has never been
consecrated, but on the other side of the way, is a large conventicle.
Got to the Embankment through a Gate at the foot of the
bridge of the floodgates, which seem to be well constructed and do
their duty well. But, alas ! the principal work, the Embank
ment, appeared in several parts in a state of great decadence,
and for one third of it, letting in the Sea Uke a Cullender, which
then, at its full, was assaiUng its sides most violently, as it were
impatient to recover its former Empire, which if not strenuously
opposed in time, I fear it will. With regret at the probable
failure of this great plan we turned from it, and again reaching
the Town, I parted with my good Friend, Sir Richard, and took
the road to Gwynfryn, and Sir Richard returned to Bedd Gelert.
Had some account from my Entertainers of a most surprizing
young man, who had been bedridden for years, from a curvature
of the spine. I saw several letters, elegantly written, of this self-
taught invaUd. Purpose going to visit him.
Pwllheli.
In my way to it, observe the Village of Abereirch much
increased and increasing, as if there was a plan for establishing
some new manufactory there that required provision for a larger
population. Was she-wn a largish building with a large wheel
behind it, meant for a paper mill, but the founder had not

CARNARVONSHIRE 235
previously considered if it was practicable to get water to it,
which, it seems, was not. All PwUheU Marsh enclosed and inter
sected with hedges, and many of the fields already under Corn,
but ha-ving a most miserable Crop. Separated from the Estuary
by a very high and extensive embankment, -vvith floodgates and
bridge, under which the backwater empties itself. Several
vessels on the stocks. Ship bmlding the principal business of
the place. Town a Corporation.
Madryn,
Situation very grand, situated at the base of Carn Madryn,
but with an extensive and easy acclivity from the Mansion to the
more precipitous and rocky Part of the Mountain, so that the
house and grounds do not seem encumbered or oppressed with
it. There is a good deal of wood immediately about the house,
a few Ash and Sycamore, very old, and of large and picturesque
growth, with considerable young and thri-ving plantations
already sheltery and ornamental. Mr. Jones Parry Ukewise has
been very successful in removing very large trees without any
apparent effect produced in the appearance, and without topping
them and lopping their branches. There is a holly tree the
largest I ever saw, and probably as large as any in the Kingdom,
near the house. Indeed, though on so elevated a spot, and on
one side open to the Ocean at the distance of 3 Miles, it seems to
be very favourable to all sorts of growth, so much so, that in a
sheltered dingle, through which the new approach to the house is
judiciously carried, I saw a Cherry tree measuring — , which was
planted 23 years ago by the present possessor of the place. There
is a hill nearly in front of the house covered with fine old oak,
as are the sides of the Hills forming the dingle, through which the
approach leads, with various trees of large growth, and inter
spersed -with most promising larch in the vacancies. The Views
from the house are singularly beautiful, from Carn Bodeon,
gradually sloping to the Rivals, Camguwch, and several inferior
summits seen at once. Another peep presents you with the
highest of the Rivals, and its projecting back, boldly sinking into
the Sea. You shift your ground a Uttle, and the whole bay of
Nevin bursts on the sight, as in another place you get a sight of
the Sea on the opposite side of the Coast. In front of the house
as you approach it, Carn Madryn forms a most magnificent object,
seen with all its extensive acclivity that lies between it and the
house.

236 tours in wales
Llangibby.
Rode Saturday, Aug* 7**', 1813, to see this Church, which has
nothing in it worthy of notice, neither grave stone nor ornament.
The East Window of Stone work, with here and there a bit of
painted glass stiU appearing, as is the case with almost every
Chancel Window of the meanest Churches in N. Wales, whereas
in S. Wales it is not one in 20 that exhibits anything of this kind.
There is in the Churchyard a coarse stone pitched on end, with
a cross very rudely cut on it. There is a dial on the Churchyard
hedge, as there is in almost every one you see in N.Wales — another
pecuUarity. Below the Churchyard, in a Uttle Dingle at the
foot of a high hiU, is Cybi's WeU, coUected into a large bason,
surrounded by a high circular wall coving a little at top, but not
closed. It has been much resorted to for complaints in the Umbs
and eyes ; but the faith in such sainted WeUs is daily diminishing.
The eye of the Well is without this enclosure at the back of it.
In the Village is an Almshouse, -with an inscription over the
entrance.
Ascent op Snowdon.
Ascended ^ past one, riding for some little way -with much
difficulty. Then, leaving our Horses, we walked up a pretty
steep Mountain till we came to a rocky summit, having a narrow
path on one side hanging over the hoUow of Cwm Clogwyn
yawning beneath. To me the path was terrible to pass, which
passed, I came to a very narrow isthmus, which separated
Cwm Clogwyn from another still deeper Cwm on the other side.
I had then for a considerable ascent a more terrible path to
encounter taking several sharp turnings through a rocky and
narrow ridge, -with this Cwm exactly under me. Thank God, I
got to the end of it, but with a determined resolution not to
return that way. Saw Llynnie Nanlle to great advantage.
After another sharp but not terrible ascending stage, I reached
the Summit. But it is of so tame a character on that side that
there is nothing of the grand to attract notice, and it derives aU
its consequence from the surrounding peaks, whose blasted
features betray their conflict for ages with the Elements. And
as to the Peak of Snowdon itseU, it only acquires importance
from its known height, and from your being conscious that you
are on its summit. The rifted side of the Peak of Snowdon, as
seen from Llanberis, from this point does not appear.

CARNARVONSHIRE 237
Descended a very practicable way through a road made and
taken by the Carriers of Mine from a Work under Snowdon in the
Vale where Llyn Llydaw is, and got home safe, thank God, by
eight o'clock.
Bangor Cathedral.
Service all chanted. Organ given by Thomas Lloyd, D.D.,
late Dean. M'^ Cotton, the Prsecentor, a most excellent reader.
Never did I hear the Service performed with more solemnity.
Nave much encumbered and disfigured by the Seats and Pews
for the Welsh Service, being all gathered into a heap, narrowing
the passage up to the Quire, and hiding the PiUars that support
it, whereas the whole might be very well disposed of in the side
Aisle, and prove more commodious to the Preacher and his
Audience. The Palace has had a great deal laid out on it by the present
Bishop, most judiciously and with great taste, so that a more
charming residence cannot be. The Hall, which every one
remembers, a dark, funereal room, by opening new windows to
the Park, made Ught and cheerful, serving as an excellent family
breakfast room, and also for a chapel for family prayers. The
Chairs happily designed, being stained black, the backs wrought
with Gothic pinnacles, and the openings Gothick, -with a gilt
Mitre in raised work on the centre of the back. Cane bottoms.
Drawing room very handsome, lighted by one handsome Venetian
window opening on a balcony under a Verenda to the La-wn of
the Park, with a pleasing side View of the Cathedral, and the
surrounding hills prettily fringed -with wood.
The Bishop (and I beUeve he is sincere) professes not to part
for any removal, and is moored here for life, and no bad anchorage
neither, the See being at least £7 or £8,000 per Ann. Two fine
paintings by Beecher, one of his Majesty full length, and one of
himself soon after his accession to the Mitre.
Bangor.
Thursday. — I was no sooner up than I received a Letter from
M"^ Wyatt in-viting me to Breakfast with him, and to dine with
Lady Penrhyn, proposing Ukewise to attend me to see the
Quarries and other interesting scenes on the banks of the Ogwen.
The Weather, though very black, favoured us for two or three
Hours, and enabled us to have a pleasant ride up the Vale that
leads to the Mountains, which appeared to great advantage.

238 TOURS IN WALES
having their Heads all enveloped in clouds, and a purple gloom
round their sides. We frequently saw the course of the Rail road
that extends from the Quarries to Port Penrhyn, where I saw two
Horses drag a vast number of Tumbrels with the greatest ease,
each carrying a Ton-weight of Slates. Two Horses often drag
30 of such Tumbrels, and can if occasion required drag 40 ; and
they can make 3 Trips a day, a prodigious thing.
The great Road that leads through this picturesque and grand
pass skirts the River Ogwen, which rambles below it, over which
now a Mail Coach passes half way to the Quarry. Observe on a
Woody Ridge the old seat of Coytmore, in Llanllechyd Parish,
the Ogwen dividing the Parishes of Llandegai and that. The
whole of the Parish of Llandegai is the Property of Penrhyn,
and much of the other.
Call at Bryn Derwen, a beautiful ViUa of a Son in Law of
Mr Wyatt, who has the superintendence of some part of the
Works. It stands on a little rocky Knoll, prettily cloathed with
young Oaks from old Stools, and some thri-ving new plantations,
through which a pleasing Walk is made to wind in so happy a
manner as to make the place appear much more extensive than it
really is, amongst the growth. Here and there are scattered
detached rocky fragments, and one very remarkable, being a
large fiattish mass, something Uke a Cromlech, and in all proba
biUty had been one, as I thought the Stones beneath appeared
to have been the supporters, one which now e-vidently gives it
support. The Cap of this immense stone appears to have been
detached by Art, there being a disposition in that part to exf oUate,
and the upper part seems to have been raised, and a few lumps
of Stone, the size of one's fist, put in to keep it apart, whereby
the upper, being struck with a lump of Stone, rings Uke a BeU ;
whereas the lower part emits not the least of a metallick sound.
(Instance here St. Govan's Stone.)
Pass to the Right a small Lake in the midst of a small moory
ffat covered with the Myrica Galea. Proceed till we come to
Lady Penrhyn's dressed dairy, where everything is disposed with
great taste, and nothing is too tawdrily fine. The Dairy is, of
course, furnished with beautiful slate Benches and cream coloured
Wedgewood ware. The Apartments are neatly elegant, and the
simplex munditiis prevails everywhere. It is surrounded by a
Pleasure Ground and Garden, -with rich pasture. Saw under an
old Oak a small stool made to imitate a great Mushroom. An
apiary weU contrived, with straw hives and glass ones. At the
back of the House, just under the Mountain side, a curious Piggery

CARNARVONSHIRE 239
and Poultry yard, with a fountain playing in one ol the Courts,
and a pond in another for Ducks, capable of being voided in
Quarter of an hour, and filled again by only pulUng up a little
sUding board. The Troughs for the Pigs well contrived. Never
did I see a greater command of water. They chum by Water,
and the Mill work is so contrived as to be graduated as you
please. In short, within and without Doors everything is designed
with vast taste. Out of the yard, into which the Styes open,
there is a tunnel under the road, which lets the pigs into the
Hills to graze, where they have an extensive range.
Through a beautiful Meadow falUng do-wn to the Ogwen, which,
for a long reach here, has a tame lake-like appearance, as it has
in a few other places, producing a pleasing contrast with its
general character, and is a singularity to which most of the
Mountain Rivers are strangers to, we pass to Lady Penrhyn's
Cottage called Ogwen Bank, lying in a hollow of the HiU between
the great Road and the River, and embosomed in beautiful
young plantations, -with here and there an old tree. Though
caUed a Cottage, it must be esteemed a Cottage in its holiday
cloaths, yet I can't say it is too much dressed for a thing of the
kind. The -view from it is singularly striking and appropriate
as you catch through the Trees a sight of the whole Quarry
region, the source of that wealth enabUng the noble proprietors
to raise such beautiful structures as everywhere ornament this
tract, and to carry on such great Works as give employ to 600
people ; besides a most interesting rocky bed of the River, where
the Ogwen, as it were impatient of the lazy course it experienced
in a long reach above it, reasserts its character, and foams in
broken cataracts over abrupt ledges into its stony channel, and
a fine bridge. Hence cross the bridge to see the Quarries, where
fervet opus, but a hea-vry storm ha-ving begun, I was not able to
take more than a cursory glance at this stupendous work. After
leaving the Quarry, not far off, pass on the left the Chapel, an
elegant and neat building not yet finished, meant as a Chapel for
the people employed in the Mines. The Mountain side near the
Quarries prettily studded -with neat Cottages. Pass a Uttle farther
on the Manufactory for sa-wing slates for Chimney pieces, &c.,
occupied by a Mr. Worthington, but did not see the process, the
work being stopped, o-wing to some reparation for some days.
This Mr. Worthington, nearer Llandegai, has a beautiful House
overhanging the River, and carries on a FUnt grinding Work, for
the Potteries, on a great Scale. The FUnts he imports from
Southampton, or other Ports nearest to the Downy Countries.

240 tours in WALES
Got home damped, but more sweltered with the heat of a
borrowed greatcoat. Time enough to dress for dinner. Had
an uncomfortable ride through hard rain to Penrhyn, where I was
poUtely received- Our company were Lady Penrhyn, Mrs. Ferry,
a Mr. Ferry, her Son — ^Fellow of Trinity Coll., Cambridge — Mr.
Wyatt, and self. Lady Penrhyn pressed me to take a bed there,
but I declined it, as I had not my things about me, and prevailed
on me to stay another day, that I might see the Grounds of
Penrhyn. Friday. — After Breakfast took Horse, and accompanied Mr.
Wyatt to Penrhyn. Leaving our Horses, we walked do-vra. by a
beautiful walk, under the shelter of fine young plantations, to an
elegant Uttle Cottage of her Ladyship, where, in her way up or
do-wn to the Bath, she rests herself. The Walk is open to the
Bay, Orme's Head, PriesthoUne, Beaumaris, and Penmaenma-wr.
The Cottage is overrun with Passion flowers and beautiful
Creepers of various kinds. The sitting room is hung round with
Caricatures sUghtly fastened on, which her Ladyship changes
every year. Continue the same walk, passing the Gardener's
retreat, till we come to the Shore, and proceed by an artificial
mole to the Baths, an elegant building having its foundation on a
rock, supplying a firmness, which had not the rock been there,
it might have been difficult to have given it. There is a large
circular Basin, inclosed with high walls, always filled with Sea
Water, so that no tides need be consulted. There is a dressing
room, or rather an undressing room, each side, one for the Ladies,
the other for the Gentlemen. There is Ukewise a warm Bath,
and every convenience for this Species of Luxury, and perhaps
cannot be equalled by anything of the kind in the Kingdom.
Return by the same Walk, and examine the Stables, which
for magnificence, elegance, comfort, and convenience cannot be
surpassed. The buUding presents a regular Front, -with an
immense Gate Way or Arch in the Centre, having high folding
doors for Carriages. On each side this Gateway are the family
horses. The facing of the building is all slate skrewed on to a
wood batting. In short, everything here savours of Slate, Door
and Window casings. Cisterns, Horse blocks, nay, the very
Mangers are constructed of slate, with only an edge of cyUndrical
Wood that rolls. Most of the common paUng is of Slate, cut to
imitate Wood, and from its colour. Wood painted in lead coloured
paint. Behind the Stable there is a large square, where are the
stables for strange horses, entered from behind. Coach Houses,

CARNARVONSHIRE 241
and a long Piazza to exercise Horses in rainy weather. The
Farmyard is placed happily out of sight, and is most compact,
with a neat House belonging to the Bailiff near. The Chapel,
now placed at a little distance from the house, yet seen from some
of its Windows to great effect, once stood attached to the house,
and was removed stone by stone to the site it now occupies. It
is finely shaded by trees, making the Scene very solemn, and Ivy
as it were of Ages has been trained to cloak part of it. The
Work -within, such as Pews, Pulpit, &c., is new, only a few bas
reliefs from the old in wood introduced into the panels of the
new. The House, with an exception to a Bow Window, and a
round tower to correspond with an old one that existed there for
some hundred years, is the same shell as the old, but having
undergone a different distribution as to its rooms. The Hall is
exactly the same as it was in point of its dimensions, only new
stuccoed and furnished. In the Dining Parlour is a noble
Portrait in the highest preservation of Williams, Archbishop of
York, by Jansen. Out of the Hall you ascend the old Tower by
a Corkscrew staircase of stone, from the Top of which you
have a deUghtful prospect. There is. Lady Penrhyn told me, an
authority under the Great Seal of one of the Edwards for the
then Proprietor to build that Tower,* or rather to give the House
* The following excerpts from the Penrhyn muniments are given near
the end of this MS. : —
A licence to build a Turrett with battlements at Penrhyn.
Henry by the Grace of God King of England and of France and Lord of
Ireland, to all his Bailiffs and faithful People to whom these Presents shall
come. Greeting. Know ye that we in consideration of a fine of three
shillings and four pence paid to us by John Pykine and Joan his Wife have
given and granted to the said John and Joan licence for us and our Heirs
that they may construct and compleat one small Tower in their Manor at
Penrhyn in the Ville of Creworion with a little Battlement on the top of
the said Tower so that neither the said John and Joan nor the heirs of the
said John and Joan shall be molested or disturbed by any one for the con
struction and Battlement of the said Tower -without the let or hindrance
of us or of our Heirs Justices Escheators Sheriffs BailifEs or any other of
our Ministers whomsoever. In witness whereof we have caused these our
Letters to be made patent. Witness ourself at Caernarvon the tenth day
¦of May in the sixteenth year of our Reign.
By Bill sealed with the Seal of the Deputy Justice of
North Wales.
Marked on the Box 10 May Hen: 6 (1438), but I should suspect it more
ancient. To WilHam Griffith a licence to impark and have free Warren in Crewerion R

242 TOURS IN WALES
a castellated form ; for, as appears by several documents in
Rymer's Fcedera, no man could crenell his house without the
royal permission. In a niche over the doorway or window in this
old Hall there were, when the alterations were made, discovered
the Bones of a small Infant, and amongst the Bones two rings,
one, of several stro-wns of twisted gold -wire, the other, a little
hoop representing a snake, with a small stone crystal or diamond
setting, and had been filed off the finger that wore it. I saw the
rings. Surrounding the House, particularly on the East and South
East sides, there are several old Oaks, venerable Foresters, mixed
with the new plantations, forming a charming skreen between
it and the Sea, and through and in shelter of this Wood, and
extending to, another large patch of Wood just above the Mouth
of the Ogwen there are walks, shady and pleasant, and at the
back of the Farm in this line, a pleasant Alcove commanding
a most charming view of the Sea, Ormes Head, &c.
After taking leave of Lady Penrhyn, resume our Horses, and
ride to Llandegai to see the Church, which is a neat Gothick
cruciform Church. Tower very low in the centre, supported by
four Gothick or moderately pointed Arches. On one side of the
Communion table in the East Wall on the North side, there is a
Stone canopy, where formerly, no doubt, an Effigy was recumbent ;
and on the other side the Altar raised on a Tomb, whose sides
and end are ornamented with Uttle -wrought Compartments,
each Compartment containing the figure of an Angel holding
an Escutcheon without any bearing. On the tomb are two
Effigies, a Warrior and a Lady in Alabaster, shockingly disfigured
now by being mutilated and scratched by schoolboys, for I found
there was a School kept there, and had perhaps been kept there
for ages. The Male figure seems to have a Collar of some Order
about his neck, and by it hangs some Animal seemingly. In the
Chancel on the South side Wall there is a mural tablet to the
memory of the Archbishop of York. He is represented kneeUng,
(Cororion), 25th Hen: &'^ (1455) [?]. A place called Coed y Park there
now. The Quarries mentioned in a deed of S''' of Hen : 5"\
The sum total of a Rental of Penrhyn in 1500, £75 10s. Od.
It appears by the purchase deed that the Lord Keeper, 1622, bought
Penrhyn of Evan Lloyd of Yale Esq'' and Sir Rd Trevor for £8,000.
In the 42'"i of EUzabeth Piers Griffith was Captain of the Ship Grace.
Perys Oruffyth, so he spelt his name.
Domus Leprosorum mentioned at Carnarvon 10"^ Edward S'"*.
John, Prior of Priestholme, is witness to a deed 9^'' Hen : 4"'.

CARNARVONSHIRE 243
his figure was in white Marble, but the Marble has been painted.
Shocking ! Yet though the paint has blunted the sharpness of
the sculpture there is a strong likeness.
Some time past an old stone Coffin excavated from a coarse
granite was dug up in the Churchyard, where it was supposed the
Patron Saint Dygai was buried.
Creuddyn.
On Wednesday, 1st Sep'', [1813], crossed over the Ferry of
Conway with my Friend Mr. Owen, after having our patience
tried to the utmost by waiting for above 2 Hours at the Ferry,
and experiencing the most unexampled and savage insolence
from the Ferrymen, which caUs for reprobation. Reach, however,
Gloddaith in time to admit of our visiting the Chapel (as they call
the curious arched covering over Trillo's sainted Well) and Bryn
Eyrin, a very large building, and of such architecture as puzzles
one to decide on its age, or use, for though by the chimneys in it it
must have been a mansion, yet it appeared not to have had any
apertures that could be called windows, there appearing none
but obUque eyelet holes. The House of Gloddaith is a large
irregular pile of building of various eras. The Hall, which is
roofed Uke Westminster Hall on a small scale with wood, has
something very baronial in it. There is a gallery at one end,
and it is lighted by two large Windows, with semicircular tops
and stone mulUons. The Chimney piece is of stone, an arch of
a very wide span, a Gothic EUptic. It has this motto in old
embossed letters, painted black (the ground of the Chimney piece
beuag stone colour), Heb Dduw heb ddim, Duw a digon. Amen ;
and under it round the rim next to the fire, Honi soit qui mal y
pense ; and above the Centre of the Arch Madoc Gloddaith's
Arms, viz.. Gules a Che-vrron between 3 balls argent. In the
drawing room there is a Chimney piece of stone, but not arched,
and certainly of a more modern date. It bears on the upper rim.
Da pacem nobis Domine in diebus nostris quia non est ; and round
the lower Rim, Thomas Mosten Armiger. No date, yet it certainly
must have been before the Baronetcy was created, which was in
1660 ; so that it must have been inscribed, either in the time
of the Ci-vil Wars, or in EUzabeth's reign, there being no war
that could have been referred to but one of these. This Chimney
piece is decorated with 5 Escutcheons, viz., that above the
Chimney piece in the centre, Edwin Prince of Tegengl. On each
side, Sir Griffith Llwyd's and Ednyfed Vychan's ; and in the
r2

244 TOURS IN WALES
corner, Tudur Trevor, and Madoc Gloddaith. The Hall appears
to be older than the Dra-wing Room, as well as the kitchen. Pantry,
&c., the latter of which opens with a half door, and a little sheU
annexed like that of a College Buttery. The Kitchen, in the part
just over the region of the Fire place, goes to the roof, ending
in Sky light, looking into which there is a small shutter, through
which, from the gallery, it is supposed the Lady of the House
issued her orders. In a corner of the Kitchen, close to the Door, is
a curious old brass Mortar, curious wrought, bedded in a wooden
pillar fixed in the floor, which once, no doubt, was upright, but
now much out of its perpendicular, and chained to the WaU in
that position. Qu., why so chained ?
The Library contains a vast number of the best stock books,
several Classics of the best editions, and large paper copies of
almost every book, a fine illuminated Copy of Froissart on vellum,
but I suspect it is only the half of it, the other probably at
Mostyn. Among the MSS., as usual, occurs a great deal of Welsh
poetry, and one curious collection of W'" Cynwal's Eulogies and
Elegies, with the Coats of Arms coarsely tricked of the persons
praised or bewailed before each.* A fine copy of Statius's
Thebaid on Vellum, and of Terence's Plays, d°- Several Missals,
and one remarkably fine ; all kept remarkably dry. The famous
Torque is in a leather case. The House finely backed with wood
cloathing the high ridge of limestone behind it, open to the South,
with hanging Gardens and Terraces to the same aspect. All
round finely wooded with every sort of Tree, but principally Oak.
Here and at BodyscaUen, Timber supposed worth £80,000.
Thursday 2<^ [Sept. , 1813].— Rode to BodyscaUen. Met Sir Rob*
Vaughan, who gave me all the particulars respecting the faU of
the Ceubren yr EUyU. He said that there was one line of sound
and fine timber in it, which suppUed the few living Branches with
vegetative Ufe.
Hence, in Company with Mr. Owen, by a most horrid narrow
pass overhanging the Sea which to walk is formidable (for we
abandoned our Horses), to Gogarth, a place, I beUeve, seldom
visited by Tourists, where I found the ruins of a very large
building, I presume of the Monastick kind. Part of the Church,
with high walls, placed on the edge of the crumbling high bank
above the beach, which I should think, is daily mouldering away,
and I make no doubt was once part of an extensive tract stretching
* This is now Mostyn MS. 111.— En.

CARNARVONSHIRE 245
sea-ward beneath it, for by the edge of a large window of the WaU,
which now reaches only to the brink of the precipice, it is clear
that the other part, together with the same portion of wall as
shews on the land side of it, must have existed, but now swept
away. No tradition or history of it. But of its being a reUgious
Establishment I think is evident by a deed which I have S3en
relative to a tenement at Gogarth, where the abuttals on one side
are mentioned, prope Viam sanctam ; and to prove that much
land has been lost, in another deed there is mention made of a
Molendinum, a Mill, which must have been placed on the flat,
now washed away, and worked by the little rill of Water that runs
from the rock above, and by being collected into a Dam might
have sufficed to have worked it sufficiently to have supplied a
small population.
On Friday, 3^ [Sept., 1813], left Gloddaith, and having been
told by the Rev'^Mr. Lloyd of Caerwys that in Llandrillo Church,
by new paving it, a Grave Stone had been removed with an
inscription purporting it to have covered the ashes of Ednyfed
Vychan, said to have Uved at Bryn Eurin. This was too flattering
a bait for Antiquaries not to bite at. However, after sweeping
and scraping the tomb well, we found it thus inscribed and thus
ornamented.* Observe a curious stone terminating the pine end
of the North Aisle at the East, representing a ducal coronet sur
mounted by an arm holding something.
Hence to Conway Ferry, where we waited in vain for two
hours for the ferry boat, the wind being too high to admit of its
crossing, which obUged us to go all round to Tal y Cafn ; and
then, through a most tempestuous night over Bwlch y Ddwyfaen
to Aber, by half past Nine, just in time to escape violent rain,
thank God.
Saturday, 4th Sep'', [1813].— CaUed on M' Worthmgton, whom
I found a most intelligent, pleasant Man. Being concerned in the
Herculanium pottery at Liverpool, he carries on here an exten
sive work subservient to it, -viz., a mill for reducing flint, first
burnt -with an impalpable powder, to make China, a very late
* The sketch is worthless, being exceedingly rough, and the inscription
inaccurate and incomplete. The latter should run thus : — ?J* mc iacet dns
EDNE-VTED QVONDAM -VTOAEIVS DE DYKEVET C ASIMB PBOPICIETVK DEVS AMEN.
There is a good photograph of this floriated cross in W. Bezant Lowe, The
Heart of Northern Wales, 1912, p. 363. See also Arch. Camb., 1857, p. 42 ;
Thomas, Hist, of Dio. of St. Asaph, iii, pp. 212-3.— Ed.

246 TOURS IN WALES
discovery found out by a curious commission Man, who took a
flint to Ught his pipe by, a particle of which fell into his pipe, and
there was reduced to a Calx, which attracted his observation, so
that he kept the bit, which led to the extensive use of it. The
Mill for this purpose, in all its branches, is a curious piece of
Machinery. But what most provoked my admiration was the
mill for sawing Boards, which is so simple as immediately to be
comprehended by any person without much knowledge of
mechanism. By the help of two men, to attend the process, as
much work is done at once, with less waste of timber and finer,
as would employ in the ordinary way 36 Men. By the wheel that
sets this machine in motion several other mills are moved, such
as those for grinding various paints, bruising Linseed for Oil, &c.
The boards that were sawing then were for the frames of Cypher
ing slates, of which 3 fourths of all that are used are made here,
viz., about 8,000 dozen. There is likewise a vast quantity of
Pencils sold here which come from the North of England and
are cut by a Machine.
After dinner took a ride to see the Mill for sawing the blocks of
slate for Chimney pieces, Tomb stones, side boards. Cyphering
Slates, &c., which is a wonderful piece of Machinery, and carried
on with great success by Mr. Worthington.
Hence to the beautiful Chapel built, consecrated, and endowed
by Lady Penrhyn for the use of the people employed in the Slate
quarries, forming a vast population scattered over the sides of the
Mountain in neat Cottages built for that purpose. Too much
cannot be said in praise of this structure, which unites simpUcity
with elegance. The Clergyman has his house and school near, as
has the Clerk. Service t-wice every Sunday. Rev'^ Mr. Hughes,
a very popular Welsh preacher, the Curate.
Sunday Evening I attended Divine Service in the Chapel,
which was quite crowded, having about 300 people in it. Mr.
Hughes the Curate went through the Service -with most impressive
devotion, and his sermon was well delivered.
Tuesday, Sep'' 7, 1813. — Left Bangor and took a seat in
Mr. Arthur Wyatt's gig to Glangwnnai, a beautiful spot ahnost
insulated by the waters of the Seint and Gwnnai. The spot is a
Knoll well wooded in the Confiuence of the above rivers. It
belongs to a Mr. Lloyd of Shrewsbury, who bought it of the late
Mr. Roberts of Llanbedrog. Mr. Lloyd added many new planta
tions very judiciously, now thriving, but the beauty of the
grounds may be justly ascribed to the taste of Mr. Arthur Wyatt,

CARNARVONSHIRE 247
who occupied it for some time. He may be said to have laid out
the grounds, has made the walks to wind most happily, so as to
catch in several places beautiful peeps of the Seint, which here
fiUs a most capacious channel, and takes the most beautiful
bends, shewing its whole course, a dashing precipitousness, and
in one or two places, no unpicturesque falls, as likewise does the
G-wnnai. The Walk on the Margin of the Seint, following the
same sweeps as does the river, is charming. You then leave
the greater River and turn up into a tangled path, and pursue
the more pastoral stream up to the House. In any place, this
spot would be beautiful, and what is remarkable does not owe its
beauties to its pecuUar situation near Carnarvon, and the moun
tainous scene around it, as from no part of the grounds do you
take in a view of the Turrets of Segontium or much of the
Mountains. Wednesday, 8th. — Accompanied Mr. Williams to Llanrug,
where I was turned loose, to satiate myself with his very curious
and miscellaneous collections for Welsh History. Added much
to my stock.
Thursday, 9th. — Set off with my Cicerone to the Vale of Llan
beris, ha-ving never entered it from that end. Day fine and
clear. Saw the lakes to great advantage ; lower about 3 Miles in
length, and about half a Mile average breadth ; upper, a Mile
long, separated by a small tract of fiat Meadow land called the
Bala, a projecting point, particularly between waters.
Pass Tydu where Godfrey Goodman Uved, mentioned in
Appendix to York's Tribes, and Glyn Rhen-wy, another old
Plas. A new road is here sketched, I may say, and with a view to
this a Mr. Wright is building a house for an Inn in a very pleasant
situation, prettily wooded, -with a great deal of good land about
it weU sheltered, extending to the River Hwch (so called from its
grunting sound probably), which falls into the upper Lake just
under Dolbadarn Castle, which here forms a very picturesque
object. Goodman in his will mentions Ty du and Coed Ma-wr.
There is not much growth at present to justify the name, but you
see covering all the sides of the little knolls, and the mountains
some way up, old stools throwing out vigorous shoots, which, if
properly preserved, would in after years become the Coed Mawr
again. Pass the bridge over the Hwch, and by a winding path for about
half a mile on the edge of it, ascend to Rhaiadr y Ceunant Mawr,

248 TOURS IN WALES
which is a very singular Cataract, falling over three or 4 ledges
of Rock, tiU it precipitates after a small turn to the Right in one
broken sheet over a perpendicular Rock into a deep hollow, formed
by the whole River, and producing an appearance very different
from our falls in general.
Return the same way and examine the Castle of Dolbadarn,
which consists of one tower of most exceUent masonry and the
hardest possible cement. The lower part of the Tower more
projecting at the base, and for 4 feet high built of a thick slaty
stone lying very close without Mortar. The present Tower, by
its masonry seems to have experienced some of the touches of
Edward the First, is entered by a large staircase from without
leading to the grand and only Entrance, which had been guarded
by a PortculUs, and opened on the first floor, there appearing to
have been no entrance to the basement but from within. There
were three stories, each having a fire place, and the first or
principal having an oriel window. In the middle of the floor of
the basement story there appears to have been a hole, either for
a well or one of those Dungeons, like that at St. David's, where
probably Owen Goch was interred alive, I may say.
On the North side an excrescence (square) of building, in the
upper stories of which were small chambers, entered from the
circular room, probably dormitories, the lower part being neces
saries. The walls very thick, not less than 4 feet. Diameter of
Tower about 28 feet. Circumference from without about 150.
The top appears to have been drawn into a cone ; a parapet
wall round the Summit. It stands on a projecting eminence
above the end of the upper lake. Older buildings seem to
have occupied the space between the present tower and the
point of the projecting precipice, its walls having followed
the shape of the Rock on which they stand, the Rock having
been apparently by art made more inaccessible. Here perhaps,
before Edward's new Tower rose, the ancient Fortress stood.
There are traces of large Apartments.
Cross Pont y Bala over the River issuing out of the upper lake,
which may be called the Seint in its first stage, and which after
passing through the lower lake becomes the River known by that
name, and voids itself at Carnarvon. This Bridge crossed, look
at a handsome Cottage of Mr. Ashton Smith's caUed Glan Bala
very appropriately, prettily embosomed in thriving young wood,
with a few old trees near the House. The Cottage stands on a
pretty knoll, and has all its necessary appendages of Garden,
&c., with as much nature and as little art as fashionable comforts

CARNARVONSHIRE 249
would admit of, and it may be said not to be dressed beyond the
simplex munditiis.
Leaving this charming spot, ascend to the Slate Quarries by a
sloping acclivity of about a Mile, running on the side of an
immensely high hill forming the boundary of the lake, to enclose
which a fence has been made within these two years, to keep
Sheep and Goats out, by which means, the whole hill (from old
stools, and Nature's planting, a young forest of Oak, Birch, and
¦ Mountain Ash is springing up, and in the course of 5 or 6 years,
such is their thriving progress at this early age) is likely to make a
most respectable figure. Pity more of such laudable patriotick
plans should not be adopted. Take a turn to the left, and then
to the right, and after crossing a little hoUow, come to another
story, I may say, of the Mountains (the Elydyr range), where are
Mr. Smith's slate Quarries. I say Quarries, as there are two or
three works going on at the same time, at no great distance from
each other, being separated by a Stratum of hard stone which
runs parallel to the Slate. From these Quarries a new road for
Seven Miles to a shipping place on the Menai, Mr. Smith's
exclusive property, has been lately made, where his slates are
perpetuaUy carrying, to the great obstruction of improvement in
Agriculture — the farmers' horses, carts, and men being employed
in this business ; so that it is to be lamented (and perhaps Mr.
Smith himself -will lament) that there was not at first a rail road
made, which would not have required many horses to tend it, an
advantage that the neighbourhood of the Penrhyn Quarries
feel, in consequence of such an improvement. Mr. Smith owns
nearly the whole of the two Parishes of Llanberis and Lland
deiniolen. In my way homewards, on the right of the road a Uttle above
Llys Dinorwig at the base of the Mountain on a fiattish piece of
Ground, observe the ground work of ancient enclosures and
buildings, one pretty large and circular, and an avenue of some
breadth, marked with two rows of stones, taking a curved course.
CaU to see an old Mansion called Glascoed, a pretty large building,
once belonging to a family of the name of Wynne, now merged by
marriage in Coed Helen. In the parlour were several old family
pictures, and one of a Clergyman, who might have been the Wynne
buried at Llanddeiniolen Church. Over the outer door, the arch
of which was of cut stone, was a stone with the initials of the
Lady and Gentleman of the House, and their ages, with a date
of 1623, I beUeve. Near the House was a Dove House, on a
Model very prevalent in N. Wales — a square building -with 4

250 TOURS IN WALES
Gable ends in roof. Below Llanrug Church was shewn a very
perfect bit of Roman road, which must have been a vicinal one,
from its course, to connect the Road that comes by Nant from
Tommen y Mur with that leading from Conovium to Segontium.
In passing through the Station at Segontium, now intersected
by the great road to LlanbebUc, notice the Stone in the hedge
bounding the South side of the Road having on it the letters as
below :^

Llanfair Isgaer.
Just -without the grounds of Llanfair there is a knoll called
Dinas, e-vidently an old British hold, which the Romans after
occupied when they invaded Mona, exactly opposite to Pant
ysgraphiau, and admirably calculated to cover their Debarkation,
or to furnish a place of retreat in case of a repulse. It is very
bold and difficult of access towards the Water ; towards the land,
sloping -with an inner rampart of Stones and an outer of Earth,
leaving a considerable hoUow space between both, pretty broad.
Llanfair is called Isgaer with reference only to Carnarvon. Above
the grounds of Llanfair, on the farm of Crug (where Sir J. Wynne's
ancestor was fostered), is a smaU circular work seemingly sur
rounded with what was once a moat, now a boggy foss, which
might have been an outpost of the Romans, as situated just
opposite to the great pass of Llanberis, and admitting of an exten
sive view all round, for prevention of surprize and giving alarm.
It is called Girlan or Gorlan Diboeth.
Llanfair, charmingly situated, -with lawn finely sloping to the
Menai, exactly opposite to a la-wn of a similar character on the
other side at Llanidan. Magnificently wooded. On a mount
just above the House, cro-wned by a noble and picturesque Ash
Tree, partly stagheaded and clad with Ivy, catch many deUghtful
peeps of the Menai illumined by the setting sun and the opposite
Coast. Lord Littleton (George), who was entertained here by
the present possessor's father, preferred it to any look out he had
seen.

carnarvonshire 251
Curiosities at Llanfair.
Sardonyx Ring, without impression, set in Virgin gold heavily.
Found in ruins of old Segontium.
A gold signet ring of Sir Wm. Jones of Castellmarch, exhibiting
his Arms, viz., 3 hogs' heads, but -with a touch of the finger at
turns ; and the crest a horse's head appears.
A curious ornament, whether ring or not, with a piece of glass
or some gem Uke an Eye at the Top, the soUd part above the ring
ending in it. Found among some Druidical works. It was of
gold. A curious gold ring which opens and forms an Orrery.
An antient Lady's stirrup of brass, exactly the model of the
leather Stirrup now used by the Ladies.
The unfortunate Duke of Monmouth's Stirrups, Pummel of his
sword, and spurs. Pictures at Llanfair.
Portrait of Sir William Jones, but not in good preservation ;
a copy I take it, of that at Rhiwlas, which seems to have been
the original from which the Print before his reports was taken.
A fine Portrait of old Rowlands of Nant by Sir Peter Lely. He
was the Post Office Palmer of his day, and had a place in the
foreign Post Office.
A Portrait of the Duke of Buckingham ; some say of Charles 1'*
when young, but no doubt of the former.
Prince Maurice of the Rhine. A Flora by Reubens. A fine
portrait by Jansen. A portrait on boards of a lady, finely
done, unkno-wn.
Friday, Sep'^ lO"', [1813]. — In company with Mr. Wiffiams set
off for Gwynfryn, but purposing to see several ancient places
in the way. Call on David Thomas, the Bard, -with whom I saw
a MS. Pedigree book, very beautifully written, including Uke-wise
a great deal of Welsh poetry and Gronwy Owen's letters, which he
is engaged to lend me. A little beyond his house (for he attended
us) he shewed us the foundations of ancient buUdings, occupying
a smaU field bordering on the Road to the right, where one
particularly strack me, being that of a circular tower. On
enquiry, we foimd it was caUed Lloce Avallon, or some such thing.
I immediately suggested it might be RywaUon, and David

252 TOURS IN WALES
Thomas told me there was a farm near called by that name ; so
that it might have been a Llys of Prince RywaUon. Then visited
Plas newydd, an old Mansion, last the property of the Orielton
family, and sold to GlynlUfon by the late Sir Hugh, together -with
Nanlle. This was a large old house. A large black oak wain
scoted hall is now turned into a farm Kitchen, and entered by a
painted Arch Door. We were shewn a room high up in a Garret
or Attick Story, which seemed to have been the private Room or
Boudoir of the former proprietor, there being in Stucco plaister
over the Chimney piece the coat of Arms of GlynlUfon, with the
initials of TG, for Thos. Glynn, 1632. In a room below, in
plaister on a beam, another date of 1633.
By a deed shewn me at G-wynfryn, made between R*^ ElUs
of Bodychen and Thos. Glynn of Plas Newydd and W"' Glynn of
NanUe, bearing date 2P' Feb^ 23 Car. 1=* [1647-8], I conclude
him to be the same whose initials are mentioned above, and that
W"' was Thomas's Son. His daiir married Rich<^ ElUs. The
farmer told us that Thomas Glynn died a Bachelor, and left his
Estate to his Godson Sir Arthur Owen ; but this could not be,
one would think, to the disinherison of his Daur, wife of Rich'^
ElUs. A great deal of fine Oak timber, and some very large and very
picturesque trees, gone to ruin for want of being cut 200 years
ago. Hence through these woods in quest of Muriau Gwil3'm
Ddu, the site of whose habitation was where now a cottage stands,
between the Road we took and the GlynlUfon fort or summer
house. Gwilym Ddu mentions contemporary bards, Tudyr and
some other ; and it is remarkable that near the site of his
Muriau there are two places, to this day, one called Tyddyn
Tudyr, and the other Tyddyn.
I then shewed them what had attracted my notice three years
ago in a field adjoining the road a Uttle farther on, remains and
foundations of extensive buildings, amongst the loose stones of
which, 3 years ago, I saw a fragment of cut Stone. One grand
Entrance, now marked by two long upright stones. No brick
of any kind. On enquiry as to names, we found that the field was
only denominated from being on the edge of the road, Cae
Minfordd, but the farm, Pen bryn mawr. A Uttle farther on, in
a field, a large spot uncultivated, still larger, and covered in Uke
manner. All such appearances go under the general name of
Cyttiau'r Gwyddelod.
After great circuity arrive at Craig y Dinas, situated on a rocky
eminence above the Llyfni, a little lower down than Lleiar, the

CARNARVONSHIRE 253
Carnarvon side of the river. It is a large Encampment, towards
the land side protected by two very lofty ramparts, the inner of
Stone and outer of Earth, -with a wide and deep foss between.
These ramparts extend for near two thirds of its compass, the
other part being naturaUy precipitous, not requiring much
defence ; above the river very steep.
In the centre a rising like an old Carnedd. In several places,
at no great distance from it, more of the Cyttiau. Followed
the Llyfni, which we cross at Pont Cym, a bridge near the centre
of which is a stone bearing this inscription : — ¦
Catherine Buckley hath give £20 towards mak this Bridge
1612—
which is a Uteral translation of Welsh into EngUsh, and may
give some idea of the relative idiom of the two languages.
Part with my valuable Cicerone at a bridge lower down on the
Turnpike Road from Carnarvon to Pwllheli. Pursue it through
Clynog. On my way thither observe with regret a very fine
shaft of an ornamented old Cross, of a singular yellowish grit
Stone, serving as a footbridge, plundered, I presume, from
Clynog. Much struck with the Elegance of the Structure of
Clynog. Fine trees in Churchyard, and a remarkable fine Ash
before Inn door. At the door of smaller inn, a large Sycamore
tree growing out of the Side Wall, and towering higher than the
house. The road very grand the sea side of the Rivals, and
through a Country exhibiting, on the sides of the hills sloping to
the Sea, specimens of exceUent cultivation, fine Corn, and fine
Swedish Turnips, which makes it a subject of regret that more is
not cultivated. At Elemion, stunted remains of a great wood
sold by late Wynne of Wern. Were they standing now would be
worth £10,000.
Proceed, and pass by Plas du, where once Owen the Epigram
matist pointed many an Epigram, and to G-wjnifryn before
Night. Monday. — Rode out with Mr. EUis, and saw a very fine Cistvaen
in a field caUed Cae'r Goeten. The incumbent stone is very large
and thick. There is a Cromlech, seemingly, near Ystimcegid,
if the drawing I have seen of it is correct. Gwynfryn itself
appears to have been occupied by a Druidical circle, from the
names of some of the Fields. Prevented by Rain from extending
our Ride.

254 TOURS IN WALES
Tuesday. — Left Gwynfryn and took the Road by Tremadock.
Had a letter to a Mr. BiUington, who was not -within, and the
letter was opened by a Mr. ThelwaU, who very poUtely shewed
me the whole House and the Grounds. It is a very handsome
Cottage. Verenda prettily overgrown with creepers. Saw
through a telescope the new Embankment, which is meant to be
finished by June next. The To-wn is not so large as I was led to
expect, for, exclusive of an Inn or two, a large shop and the Town
House, the Houses are low and on a small scale, and not many.
Saw the elevation of a new street that is to face the new Church
now building. Saw near the House, the right of the Road, a
rocky ridge beautifully overrun with Ivy, and in one place
projecting, having an excellent place for a seat. Further on,
went to an Arch formed by an immense fragment resting on two
Stoiies, like a Cromlech, forming an opening. There are stairs
made to get to the top of it. The little promontory is appro
priately called Penrhyn Heli, the brine Promontory.
By Pont Aberglaslyn over a most excellent Road on the Margin
of the Estuary, and under Rocks to the Land side, prettily broken
here and there ; the hollows in the hills well wooded ; cross the
bridge, and by a new road much lower than the course of the
former road by Bron Danw, under a very tremendously projecting
ridge of rock, to Tanybwlch. Got to Trawsfynydd in the
Evening. Saw with a Man from a ridge of Mountains, between
Trawsfynydd and Ardudwy, Daggers of a mixed mettle and a
Pike head found under a Cistvaen. There was in the same place
some years ago a sort of Saucepan found. Several Cistvaens in
that neighbourhood, and cavities Uke the huts of the early
inhabitants. An old China cruise inscribed Sack 1649, and the
canon with Maj or a canamus on it.

255

Anglesey.*
Begim Thursday, Aug* [9th], 1810. — Set off from Carnarvon.
Ride charming over the Menai. Road remarkably fine and
strait. Pass Llanvair is gaer, charmingly wooded down to y"
water's edge — so called, I imagine, from its situation below a
small Encampment, perhaps of the Romans, to cover their
debarkation when they crossed over to Anglesea, the place
nearly opposite being called Pant yr Yscraphie, or rather Pont,
as it may be supposed they went over by a bridge of boats, in
this place the shaUowest part of the Fretum. The grounds of
Plas newydd much enlarged since the accession of those formerly
belonging to Col. Peacock, and the whole enclosed -with a high
stone wall. We enter at a gate a little beyond Plas coch, an old
house of Queen EUzabeth's Age, and wind through very fine woods
and lawns, till we come to the so much admired Druid Relic
erroneously called a Cromlech.
The House is entirely new cased with most beautifully coloured
grey limestone finely cut, all but polished, in the Gothick stile,
as are the Offices likewise. Within, the Rooms are very magni
ficent, and well disposed of, particularly the HaU, in which are
some fine Portraits, particularly the first Earl of Uxbridge and
Lord HoUand, in Charles's time. The Chapel is extremely
beautiful, on the first landing place, as is the grand Staircase.
The hangings of the great drawing room fronting the Menai were
a present from the Queen ; are India Taffeta with coloured
flowers. Two of the best bed chambers are hung with silk and
coloured flowers, but not so rich.
We quit the grounds by a different gate, and at every step have
cause to admire the fine view of the mountains and the Menai,
which here certainly presents the best appearance, as it takes a
bend weU calculated to show it to advantage. The Place is kept
in a manner that does infinite credit to the possessor. After
lea-ving this charming place we take the Beaumaris road, and just
above Bangor Ferry turn into that new part of it lately made by
Lord Bulkely, which winds most judiciously in a level just above
the Menai, having a parapet waU on the side of the River all the
way. The View, stiU improving as you approach Beaumaris,
accompanies you, leading the eye from the Pass of Llanberis to
* MS. 2.53.

256 TOURS IN WALES
the -wild entrance into Nant Francon, and across the beautiful
retired Valley of Aber to Penmaen mawr, and its gradation of
lesser headlands beyond it, the bay of Beaumaris appearing
landlocked, and, when I saw it, to enrich the scene, two or three
Pleasure boats, with colours displayed, were sailing in different
directions on it within two or 3 Miles of the town. The road
takes its course under fine hanging woods, which continue tUl
you enter it. Beaumaris is too low to be a striking object.
After Dinner walked up to Baronhill, the grounds of which
are very delightful and richly wooded, the walks broad, clean,
and well gravell'd. As to prospect, it fronts the grandest portion
of the Mountain Region, and if there is a defect it is that you
cannot exclude it.
Friday, Aug' [10th], 1810.— By Friars to Penmon Priory.
Called on Sir Robert Williams, who shewed us his Barn, which
was formerly the Priory Church. The West end exhibits 3 lancet
Windows Uke those at Salisbury ; one fine pointed Arch on
South side, and an Arch at the East end stopped up, which in all
probabiUty led to the Chancel. Here, if we credit the Bards, who
refer to it, were interred all the people of rank of the country,
and they caU it the marble abounding Llanvaes ; and it is clearly
proved from a coincidence of several circumstances, that the three
fine monuments at Llandegai, Beaumaris, and Penmynydd were
brought from Llanvaes at the dissolution of it, and that the tomb
of Princess Joan, Llewelyn's Consort, which had for many
years officiated most disgracefully as a watering Trough for Horses,
was taken from thence, which, with its lid,* lately discovered in
the Church of Beaumaris, having on it an Effigy of a female, the
face in sight and hands uplifted, the lower part overlaid with a
profusion of florid sculpture, has been set up by Lord Bulkely at
the termination of a walk in his pleasure grounds in a gothick
Mausoleum erected for that purpose, with an inscription in Latin,
English, and Welsh.
Hence to Llienog, where at the entrance of the dingle in which
the Castle stands, there is a small earth, an outpost or exploratory
fort to the Castle higher up. The Castle, said to have been built
by Hugh Lupus, stands as a conical knoll partly natural, and
partly so shaped by Art, as is evident by the foss out of which the
earth was dug, and consists of 4 round Bastions, with a curtain
* Account of Llwyd's discovery of it, who told me he thought there was
a coronet on her head, but that the moulding over which it partly extended
was cut off.

ANGLESEY 257
wall connecting them and forming a square 16 sticks and a half
each side. The btulding appears very old, and is overrun with
an almost impenetrable wilderness intermixed with some large
trees. Stop at TrecasteU and visit the old Mansion of Tudor ap
Gronw who founded the Priory at Bangor. There are in two
Rooms remains of some little consequence in the Arches of two
Fire places, very similar to that of Gloddaeth. There was once
an inscription over one, but now quite obUterated, and adjoining
one end of the house, a small old buUding, with stone work up
round the door, and from its strength and other circumstances
supposed to be a prison.
Hence to Penmon, where I see perhaps the most perfect
specimen of an old Saxon pUe of the most monastick kind now
extant in Wales. The Church is cruciform, and consists of a
Nave, Chancel, and transepts. The tower, which ends in a square
deep pointed roof, rests on 4 Saxon Arches, ha-ving the usual
Saxon Ornament of zigzag and fret work. In the square tower
of steeple true Saxon smaU windows, one East side and the other
North. The North Transept, which appears to have been a
chantry chapel, was highly finished with mock recess of stone
stalls, truly Saxon aU round, and highly ornamented Uke the
Arches. An altar on the East side. The Arch leading to the
north transept, now down, stopped up. Two doors in the Nave
opposite each other ; over that in the South side, which is
Saxon, sculptured on the Stone above the door, a fiery dragon
vomiting out flame. There are some bits of painted glass in the
East Window, but not enough to make any part intelligible. On
one side of the Entrance into Chancel stands a smaU Saxon
piUar, the capital of which was hollowed as a receptacle for holy
water. In the Nave a font with some old sculpture on the stone,
too much blunted by daubings of white wash to be traced. The
Refectory, and the House, now inhabited, in which were the
Prior's lodgings, and the general dormitory are on the South side,
and aU together, with the other accompaniments, afford a fine
subject for the pencil. At a little distance to the Eastward is a
square building -with a square roof deep pointed, and not tiled
with slate, no more than that of the church tower, and within
brought to a cone by flags tiled one over the other, which was
their dove house. In the Centre of the inner Area, ha-ving steps
by which you may ascend to, a flat top, I suppose for holding food
for the feathered tenants of the place. It is Ughted by an
open cupola at top.

258 TOURS IN WALES
Ride to Seiriol or Priestholme. There is on it a smaU building,
with a tower very sinular to that of Penmon, being a ceU to it.
The fretum between the Island and the main is narrow, but deep.
There is a perch pointing out the passage. The reUgious of this
cell and those of Penmon are caUed Canonici de Glannauch, and
this way lead to the name of HeUg ap Glannog. On the extreme
end of Penmon point is a small earth work, and near it the site
of some very small cruciform building. From Penmon priory to
the point it is all a Warren, but to the West of it what is enclosed
-with a stone wall is a Deer park, in which, about haU a mile to the
West of the Priory, and on one of the tracks leading to it, is one
of the ornamented crosses.
Return by Llanvaes Church, in which there is an historical
Marble tablet to commemorate some by the Whytes Family,
who once o-wned Friars.
Saturday, Aug* [11th], 1810. — Walked to see the Castle, which is
an immense pile nearly square, flanked -with several round
Bastions of large diameter, enclosed -within an outer WaU,
embattled and flanked -with Bastions about half the height of the
Castle, and was moated all round, probably Sea Water let in, as
there is a curtain projecting from the main Building, called the
Gunners Walk, ha-ving a passage -within it. To this were fixed
Boats that brought what was wanted to the Castle, one of the
great Iron rings being still extant to confirm it. The Entrance
on South side into the Castle was between 2 Round Towers and a
square one attached. 2 PortculUses. Then by a doorway in a
cross wall ; then by another Entrance into the Area of the Castle.
Within the Entrance, and attached to it, was a building similar
to that on the North side which the great hall occupies, now in
ruins and almost all down. The building, includmg the Great
hall and other State rooms, projected from the North entrance
into the Area of the Castle, and was Ughted by 5 Windows opening
into the Area. On the East side was the Chapel within the
centre Bastion, a room in shape, the greater part of an oval,
groined with 7 Arches springing from 8 Columns, Ughted by
7 lancet Windows narrow. It was entered by a double Door
ha-ving a sUght pillar dividing them ; 2 slits on each side of the
door for confessional opening into the passage. There were
steps from the Area by which you ascended to it, now destroyed.
This is perhaps the most perfect specimen now existing of such a
portion of our old Castles, and perhaps the most elegant. Pity
Lord Bulkeley will not repair the slight defects that now exist,

ANGLESEY 259
which might be done for less than £100, to preserve so very
beautiful a Model. The Sides of Chapel are decorated with mock
StaUs neatly wrought. In the Area observe 3 great fire places,
a singularity I never met with before. In most of the Bastions
there were good rooms. The floors of the longer Bastions sup
ported by one large Arch like those of the great hall of Conway
Castle. The grand Entrance on the North side is by a gateway
under a lofty arch way having two blind ones of the same size,
one on each side, -with a small doorway in each. On East side a
curious vomitory to a privy, being an immense head -with a
Mouth from ear to ear -wide open. From the Castle walk to the
old house, once inhabited by the Bulkeley family and quitted for
BaronhiU in James the first's time. It was entered by a court,
three sides of which were built on. In that part of the house made
of Wood and plaister, at the bottom of some of the old projecting
Windows are Beams ornamented -with Vine leaves and grapes,
and bearing pious Mottoes, now almost effaced, of large raised
letters. The Hall exhibits a cieUng of most beautiful stucco, -with
18 depending piimacle ornaments in very good preservation, a
piece of work that would not disgrace any age.
The Church is a handsome building consisting of Nave, Chancel,
and two side Aisles. The Nave separated from the Chancel by
a pointed Arch, as is the Nave from the side Aisles by 4 Arches
slightly pointed on each side. Organ the gift of Lord Bulkeley.
Font -with a cover, neatly sculptured out of black Marble, resting
on a piUar of the same. In the Chancel are neat Oak Stalls, 4 on
each side, with turn up seats, carving beneath. There appeared to
be an Altar at East end of each side Aisle, there bemg a Piscina in
each. In the Chancel is an Altar tomb bearing two Effigies, one a
Warrior and the other a Lady, of most excellent workmanship.
The sides of the Tomb of Alabaster, Uke the recumbent Effigies, all
wrought with Compartments, each having a figure and a shield of
Arms once painted over with Arms, not obUterated in the time of
Randolph Holmes who has preserved them all, proving the
Monument to have been erected to the memory of some of the
Bulkeley family. This was one of the Monuments said to have
been brought from Llanvaes Priory at the dissolution, and its
convulsed state seems to confirm the story of its removal. On a
smaU Tablet of Brass a male and female Figure, 2 Boys at back
of male and 1 Girl behind female, -with a Latin Epitapn in Verse.
He is called Richard Bulkeley, Merchant, of Beaumaris. On one
side of the communion table, one of the Castellmarch family ; on
the other. Sir JuUus CiBsar's Son, and the puzzling Tablet. In
s2

260 TOURS IN WALES
the Chancel there is some painted glass, but so confounded and
patched that little can be made out ; the only thing perfectly
entire is the Stanley Arms within the Garter.
Sunday, Aug* 12th, 1810. — OverRedwharf Sands to Llanddona,
near which Pennant remarks two mounds, which he ascribes to
the Danes, but which I think natural inequaUties of the ground;
or if any sort of fortification, the vestiges are too faint to justify
pronouncing them artificial at all. Pass the Church, and after a
steep ascent reach the summit of the HiU, crowned with a vast
enclosure of about a Mile in compass, formed by two rows of large
stones, with a .space of about 6 feet between, filled with smaUer
stones, few of which remain, the line of enclosure to be traced
by the double row of the confining stones. The Area is nearly
plain, being an horizontal bed of Umestone, in most parts, the
sward that covered it ha-ving in the course of Ages been pared off
for fuel. The enclosure is nearly circular, but following the
natural line of the hill. Within the Wall are several sites of
ancient habitations of different forms and sizes, and it appears
by the different kinds of Pottery, some very coarse and some of
the best Roman sort, that it was originally a British to-wn of the
early inhabitants, afterwards taken possession of by the Romans,
whose Coins, as well as pottery, are constantly dug up there. I
picked up one, and several fragments of pottery, and a bit of the
true Samian. This is without a doubt the most magnificent
establishment of this kind in the whole Principality. Got home
half wet.
Monday, 13 Aug', 1810.— To M"^ Rowlands's by Penmynydd.
Stop at the Church. Over the door. Escutcheon -with 3 Helmets,
within and without. In the Church an altar Tomb. A plain
stone tablet South side of communion table to one Coningsby,
who married Marg*, d. and h. of R"* Owen of Penmynydd. There
is a stone Canopy in the North Aisle, where I presume an Effigy
must have lain. The tradition is that the Patron Saint lay
there. Hence to Plas gwyn, a beautiful place and neat house, amidst
noble trees, the seat of the Rev"* M' Rowlands, who with his
Brother, Bursar of Jesus CoU:, and a very intelligent man, the
Rev'i M-'^ Owen, attended us on our excursion. We first were
shewn Pant y Scraphie, which is a little Nook, from which in
process of time the Sea might have receded, where tradition
says the Romans landed. Then we are shewn Cae Bryn Dadleu,

ANGLESEY 261
where there are stunted remains of two Carneddau, and a little
beyond Porthamal house see the remains of a British Village,
a spot full of Cj^tiau. We then proceed to Castell Idris, a place
much overgrown -with, brushwood, yet where may be discovered
several Aggers ; and near we are she-wn what M' Owen supposed
to be Roman, there being at one end something Uke the side of a
square with the Angles rounded, but in other parts can't be made
out so correctly as to justify our pronouncing it Roman. At
Blochty there is a Cromlech, which we could not approach.
Turn to the right and, in a field near, come to one of the small
Druid Squares mentioned by Rowlands, but so choaked vsith
wilderness of every kind that there is no tracing it without
difficulty, and beyond it another still more obscured than this.
The next thing is Caer leb. (Hardly worth noting.)
Stop at Bodewyr, and in a field near examine a beautiful
Cistvaen ; incumbent stone 3 Sticks and 9 Inches, mean breadth
2 Sticks. 3 stones now supporting flat large slabs. There are
two or 3 others Uttle removed, which would have fairly shut it in ;
height of supporter 1 Stick and | ; incumbent stone almost hori
zontal and tapering up to a Roof. Stop at CaercelU, where there
are two Carneddau, one almost levelled, and stones carried away ;
the other of vast magnitude, and overgro-wn with brushwood and
tangled Briars. On one side there is a passage covered over with
coarse stones.
At Plasg-wyn saw the small building close to the Mansion, a
square -with 4 gable-ends, in which old Rowlands who wrote the
Mona Antique used to study.
During this ride the prospect was delightful, and the Ughts and
shades on the Mountains particularly striking — the View of
Carnarvon, the Mouth of the Menai, and the beautiful Eifl
Mountains. The Mountains have a fine effect seen over the
magnificent foreground of Wood from M'' Rowlands'.
Tuesday, Aug* 14 [1810]. — Rode to Llanbedergoch, which
stands in the midst of an encampment. The foss still discoverable,
and graves found every where without the Churchyard, and some
with charcoal and marks of burning. The South door of church
square stone moulded canny ; a head coarsely sculptured on each
side, meant for Bishops, having something on their heads like
Mitres. In the Chancel Window a painted Glass Pane with the
Arms of Gwerydd ap Rees Goch, viz.. Gules, a bend or charged
with three Leopards' heads sable. The Bardd Coch's father,
Hugh Hughes, buried here, who was born 1693. Below the Church

262

TOURS IN WALES

is an extensive moory tract called Rhos y gad, at the western
extremity of which are two KnoUs called Bryn y Clychau, where
two square BeUs like the Bangoos have been dug up. Not far
off from which many Skeletons have been found huddled together
in a long foss ; and in trenching Potatoes some years ago a great
number of wheels bound -with Iron, but so corroded and rotten,
wood and aU, that the spades cut through the whole like a piece of
Clay. The wheels were great and small, found about 28 years
ago. There is a Uttle water you cross from this Rhos called Rhyd
y Genvygen, the ford of contention.
Turn up out of this Rhos, and pass Cae'r Orseddau to the
left, in which there are tumuli, this sort of elevation bemg in
this Island denominated Gorsedd. Visit Llanddyfnan Church.
There is here a curious doorway* over which there is a sculptured
representation of our blessed Saviour on the Cross, and above him
a head, with something very awful in its character, perhaps in
tended to convey the awful idea of God the father. On each side
the Door an image of a Monk, and in each spandril figures of
beasts, two pigs in one, in an indecent posture, and a stag and a
fa-wn in the other. There are two pointed Arches, one dividing
Chancel and the other the Belfrey. Curious Piscina, more
recessed than usual. Hence to Penmynydd House. Nothing left
of old house but a doorway, with a cross over it, and two sculp
tured ornaments, much blunted, each side of the door. One
seems to be an Alexander's head, ha-ving the Cornu Ammonis.
In an outhouse they shew you an old Oak beam on which, in
raised letters, is read the first verse of the 120*'' Psalm in Latin.
On the outside of the wall on two stones are the folio-wing words :

PBRFECTUM EST OPUS
LAUS DEO

1576
ROT

VIVE UT
VIVAS

ription —

Wednesday, Aug* 15*", 1810.— Called on M"^ Owen, who kindly
accompanied me to see the Cromlech at Trevor, which turned

* For an illustration, see Arch. Camb., 1908, p. 93. — Ed.

ANGLESEY 263
out to be a Cistvaen. Two only of the Stones that formed the
depository beneath support the incumbent stone, which is of
great weight, one of the upright not touching, but round it are
many of the stones removed, particularly one which M"^ Thomas
had blasted. By M'' Thomas's acco* it was once bedded in a
great Carnedd, the stones of which were carried away in his time
to make the hedges roimd the field, and even now there appears
to be an elevation in the field on which it stands. There is a
smaller one close to it, which, like the large one, appeared to have
been of the Cistvaen kind, but now lying prostrate over its sup
porters, and has a hole ready pounced in it, as if it was destined
soon to be blown up.
Hence rode to Cremlyn Mjmach to see 2 Meini hirion, the
tallest of which is 9 feet. There was a third I am told, which
with the others made a triangle ; but of stones of that height there
are so many that they deserve scarce any notice, as no tradition
is annexed to them. After examining those stones, to Llanjestin,
where, in the chancel, I find the Tomb of lestyn, -vnth the
figure of the Saint but rudely sculptured on it. Cannot find out
who this pious lady was who had this tomb inscribed. In the
church was a font covered with the old fashioned fretwork on the
front crosses, divided at bottom into many compartments formed
by smaU Saxon Arches.
Thursday, Aug 16*'', 1810. — In our way to Amlwch visit an
Encampment on the summit of a hiU above Parkiau, formerly a
seat of the Bodvells, which most probably was Danish, as in
several parts of it immense heaps of Limpet, Whelk, and Muscle
sheUs are found, the only food those piratical Invaders could on
their first landing procure. The Camp, which is a hundred yards
in diameter, nearly circular, and occupies the whole flat on the
HUl just above the house of Parkiau, was marked by stones
placed edge--wise just on the edge of the precipice, and on the
other parts by a stone agger, now overgro-wn with grass. Within
the Area are hoUows and other marks of habitations. Parkiau
is in the Parish of Llaneigrad.
Pass the Church of LlanaUgo, which is most slovenly kept, the
windows being broken, so as to admit Pigeons and other birds,
which produces abominable litter, and which the rural Dean
should prohibit. On Northside of the Chancel, on an old mural
tablet, ornamented with Urns and other Emblems of mortality
and the shortness of life, is the Effigy of a Warrior, kneeUng on a
hassock, opposite to a desk with a book on it, with his helmet on

264 TOURS IN WALES
the ground. It is said to be meant for a Sir John BodviU. The
Monument may be about the time of Queen EUzabeth or James the
first. The farmer of Glanyrafon gave me a small copper Coin of
Carausius, good impression. Head sharp as well as reverse, being
a figure holding a Caduceus in her right hand, and a Cornu Copia
in her left. The Legend Temporumfelicitas.
Hence to see an overturned Cromlech a little to the South East
of the Church,behind which we were told there had not many years
ago been dug up several Urns and Ashes ; and afterwards to
Llygwy to see what was represented to us as a large Cromlech,
whereas it is the most perfect Cistvaen I ever remember to have
seen, being an immense mass of Limestone, covering a space set
round with large low Stones, making a large Chamber within,
having two entrances. This immense Ud Stone Ues perfectly
horizontal, and measures 17 Feet by 15| over, its mean thickness
3 Feet 9. The House of Llygwy has nothing very old or very
consequential about it. High up over a window is a stone with
1660, and the Letters P: Ii 57. The farmer of the place shewed
us near the house a place overrun -with thorns, briars and brush
wood, caUed Cae'r Caer, viz. the field of the Camp, where we saw
a small circular enclosure pitched round with stones, and enclosed
with a vast stone fence to be traced in several places.
Arrive at Amlwch, and after dinner walk to the Port, which
seems to be a small creek, extended since the discovery of the Paris
Mine by Art, the Rock being cut to admit of a large Vessel to
enter through a very narrow gut. It then widens for a little
way, then through another narrow passage to where they ly along
side of a lofty Pier. The sides of the Rocks that form it are
marked with deep Crocus, which is perceived for some way with
out the harbour. The Country on each side is, for a vast way,
a barren rock, bared of earth, and scarce bearing the least trace
of vegetation. The Rock is a hard sort of Reef of a greenish
whey Colour. Few furnaces are now at work, and every thing
seems to indicate the declining state of the Mines.
Friday, 17th Aug', 1810.— Set off fromAmlwch to see the Mines.
From the base of the Mountain to its summit there are no signs
of vegetation, owing to the Vapour from the Mines, but all is
bare earth as if it had been peeled. The excavations formed by
the working of the mines exhibit scenes of the grandest and most
picturesque kind. Everything seems to be thro-WTi about as if
it had been done by a painter to produce effect, and the tints
are inexpressibly fine. We were fortunate in having a dry day

ANGLESEY 265
and a bright sun. The Mines have ceased to be worked in bunch,
as they caUed it, but they are now trying subterraneously under
the older work, and go to a great depth. The price of Ore is now
from £170 to £190 p"^ ton, and it has been remembered there at
£70. I saw the process of transmuting Iron into copper, or rather
of causing Copper to adhere to Iron, by putting the end of a key
into the Water pumped up from the Mines, which assumed a
Copper colour in half a minute. The method they follow is,
they collect the Water into great reservoirs, into which they put all
kinds of old Iron, old saucepans, and shreds and cuttings of Tin,
and when they have lain some time, they beat and wash off the
copper that incrusts them, and then put them in again. Without
such process the Water of itself forms no deposit. In roasting
or smelting the ore they formerly did it in open kilns, but the
smoke was found to be so prejudicial to vegetation that they now
confine it, and cause it to pass through flues, whence it is con
densed and forms Sulphur.
Pass by Llandyvrydog. Saw nothing there but a neat entrance
into the Porch. On part of Rhos Vawr saw two overturned and
discomposed Cistvaens, not yet havmg seen a true Cromlech.
Heard of a Cottager there that 13 Graves, containing rude stone
Coffins, had been bared in that neighbourhood in making a hedge.

Opened two apparent TumuU on a little rising above Rhos y
Gad, but found them not to be sepulchral. They are placed
just opposite to each other, with a sort of raised ridge uniting
them, as if it was meant for a Meta of a Cursus, which I am incUned
to think it was, something like that at Stone henge ; the fine flat
of great extent stretching below it affording a noble space for the
Chariot Races of the Britons ; and, to strengthen me in that sup
position, near the spot there were some years back found a mass
of fragments of wheels. On the flat below there is a circular
knoU, encompassed by an agger, such as encloses places set apart
for religious ceremonies, which is called Bryn y Clychau — - Bells
such as that I saw at Mr. Payne's, not cast, but formed of plates
of Copper laid over each other, nearly square.
At Llanbedr Church, Ed. Lhwyd says, there was the station
of a Cohort of Roman Horse, and the whole enainence on which
the Church stands exhibits traces of some old works ; and the
present Cemetery seems to be formed out of an old Caer. Many
Graves have been dug up, composed of carted stones, a great
way without the Churchyard. On a gentle rising, almost

266 TOURS IN WALES
opposite the Church, on the left of Rhos y Gad, found a Roman
encampment, an oblong with rounded angles, stiU called Bod
Cadrhod, the Station of the Battle of the Chariots. A little
Tumulus in the field next to the Station.
Bryn yr Eryr.
CaUed on Mr. WilUams of Treffos, who shewed me a square
Work under Bryn Eryr, which he supposes took its name from
the Roman Eagle ; and, higher up the same bottom, another
oblong work, still called Y Castell. There is in the centre a
circular space which evidently had been of stone, as well as
another in one of the rounded angles. A good way below, below
Bryn Eryr and nearer the Menai, a place called Ynys y March,
where probably Horse were placed, and aU these posts might
have been hastily thrown up in their progress, and before they had
got a permanent footing in the Island and had taken possession
of Tyn Syl-wy. In that Camp below Bryn Eryr, as they were
paring the turf for to bring it into cultivation, the first time it
was ever disturbed since the Roman Eagles were unfurled above
it, they found two pieces of Iron, one bit something Uke the umbo
of a shield.
Llan Sadwrn Church.
Affixed to a wall in the Church by Mr. WilUams part of a tomb
stone, dug up in repairing the Church yard, -with an inscription.
A head jutting out of a wall used as a Candelabrum. An odd
figure projecting from the edge of the tiles at the Pine end. A
Bear's head, muzzled, which may be an emblem of the power of
the Church over the Devil. Maes Seivion
Is a wide space covered in several places with circles and other
enclosures, evidence of early population, if not Druidical cere
monies. Near a Cromlech overturned, and not far off, a large
circular enclosure marked by Masses of Grit Stone. Where the
Cromlech stands is called Cae'r Gromlech.
Glyn.
Below is Glyn, a house which now belongs to Meyrick of Bodor-
gan, and once inhabited by the family of Bold. Over two
Chimney Pieces there is the Coat of Ednyved Vychan, viz., 3
Helmets impaUng that of Hwfa ap Cynddelw, and in a smaU
garret over a fire place, same Coat, with " I Bold 1644." In the

ANGLESEY 267
best room the Cornice and ornament of the Beam exhibits all
sorts of MiUtary Trophies ; and over one chimney piece there is
the story of BeUsarius told in very daubing coarse stucco.
However, the House has been larger, and carries some traces of
consequence for its day. It was approached by a grand avenue
of trees ; and here and there all round are some of the largest
and taUest Ash and Sycamore I ever saw. The House is placed
in a very sheltered hollow, and taken all together is a fine situa
tion.
Cromlech at Henblas
Is certainly no regular one, that is, if ever the flat stone was
used for that purpose. It is not the work of Man ; but as a
fragment of a Limestone rock in working a quarry might have
settled in the form it now bears. The two primitive Rocks it
rests upon have grotesque forms, one with something like the head
of an Ape. Might they not be Rock Idols ? The place is called
Tyn y Gromlech.
Aug* 24th. — Ha-ving heard that an Urn was found in a Tumulus
on the banks of the River Alaw, proved by a reference to a passage
from the Mabinogion, quoted in Doctor Davies's Dictionarj^ under
the word Petrual {" Bedd petrual a wnaed i Fronwen ferch Lyr ar
Ian Alaw, ac jmo y claddwyd hi "), in company with the Rev^
Mr. Owen I set out from Plasg-wyn about half past nine, and
reached the place of destination, about 18 Miles off, by half
past one. Saw the Urn, which was nearly of this shape,* very
rude and simple, ha-ving no other ornament but those little
pricked dots, and very UI baked. It was found with its mouth
down on a flat stone, and enclosed by carted stones placed in a
square, forming the bedd petrual. It was in shelter of a large
stone which seemed to occupy the exact centre of the Tumulus,
which was of considerable circuit, but low and flat, about 10 or
a dozen yards from the channel of the River, on a spot called
Ynys foel, or Ynys lom. It contained Ashes, -with some half
calcined bones.
This Bronwen was the Daughter of Llyr Uediaith, Sister to
Bran, who was the father of the great Caractacus. Never was
there a more interesting discovery, as it gives great authority to
our antient British documents, even though they be introduced
* The sketch is also very rude. The urn has often been described and
illustrated. See, for instance. Arch. Camb., 1868, pp. 233-7, where is
also given an account of the discovery communicated by Fenton to
Sir Richard C. Hoare. The urn is no-w in the British Museum. — Ed.

268 TOURS IN WALES
to minister to Romans, as in the present instance, and fixes the
probable date to a few years of the interment, which was a
desideratum that we despaired of being gratified -with.
In my way to this place saw the stone called Lleidr Dyfrydog,
of which the tradition is, that a man who had committed
Sacrilege, by stealing the Church Bible, was, as he carried it off,
turned to Stone the instant he lost sight of the Church ; and there
in this State he remains. The Stone has a gibbous projection,
which represents the book he had stolen. On the road side
opposite to the Church are two springs, one called Ffynnon
Seiriol, and the other Ffynnon Gybi. And here it is said Seiriol
and Cybi used to meet — Seiriol Wyn and Cybi Felyn, for, Seiriol
travelling Westward to meet Cybi had the Sun behind him in
going and returning, whereas Cybi faced that planet going for
ward and back. Passed near the spot where skeletons were found
accompanied by Saxon Coins, one of Edgar, one Gold — all given
to Mr. Hughes of Cjonmel, who owns the whole territory round.
Baron Hill.
Saw there the largest Cherry tree that ever occurred to me,
even larger than those much in Lord Dynevor's Park.

Davydd ap Gwilym was said to be born at Bro Gynnyn, near
Melyn y Pryer, in Anglesea ; that his father dried Corn for the
Mill, proved by a line in a poem of the Son's —
" Vy nhad — ny chras haidd glas ar y glaw."
This looks likely as if his Mistress lived in Anglesea. Morvydd was
the Wife of one Llwyd of Tyddyn llwyd, who was the Bwa bach,
being deformed. Yet Cardiganshire contends for the honour of
his birth.

In the Cjditiau is constantly found a stone in the centre, with
a hole in it not going quite through, about 4 or 5 Inches deep,
for holding a wooden pillar, to which all the Rafters that formed
the Pyramidal roof of the hut were affixed, the props of the roof.
In one side of the huts was always or generallyfound a Quern, and
near it much Ashes quite black, supposed to have been owing to
the process they made use of in setting fire to the sheaf of Corn,
that the grain might be parched, so as to leave its husk or ear and
might triturate easier.

269

APPENDIX I.
ANGLESEY.
OUT OF Williams's ms.*
(1807)
Llanddwynwen Church.
In rums, and has been so for 200 years. Edmund Prys,
Archdeacon of Merrionydd (he versified the Psalms into Welsh
as now sung in our Welsh Churches), was the last who held
the li-ving by virtue of his Prebend. The loose sand has covered
every Inch of the Parish, ha-mig reduced it into a mere Rabbit
Warren ; wherefore it may be said of great population and very
prohfic. The Church stood on a smaU Isthmus 2 Miles South
West of Newborough, jutting into y^ Sea.
Dwynwen, the Patron Saintess, was one of the Daughters of
Brychan. She was the tutelary Saint of Lovers, and therefore
the sainted WeU there was much resorted to formerly, and even
in our Days. Spring now choak'd up by the Sands, at which an
old Woman officiated and prognosticated the lover's success
from the motions of some Eels which issued out of the sides
of the WeU, on spreading the Suitor's Handkerchief on y^ surface
of the Water. This Saintess was petitioned for curing divers
diseases, particularly (what Mr. Kemble would caU Atches)
Aches, Stitches, &c. There is a spot on the top of a rock caUed
Gwely Esyth (Qu. if not Esm-wyth) where people under such
pains lay down and slept, and after waking and cutting their
name in the sod, they fancied they were cured.
The Welsh Ovid, Dafydd ap GwUym, says : —
Nid oes glefyd na bryd brwyn
A el ynddo o Landd-wyn.f
I.e., there is neither disease nor sorrowful countenance that will follow
a man from Llanddwyn.
She was Ukewise considered the protectress of the farmer's
beasts. Remembers to have heard a story of what happened
about 150 years ago, that the ploughing Oxen at Bodeon, on the
* MS. 2.48. t Foem LXXIX of his pubhshed works.— Ed.

270 TOURS IN WALES
25*'' AprU, taking fright when at work, ran over a rock and per
ished in the Sea, as the Sea bounds that Demesne on the East,
South, and West. This being S*. Mark's Day, it was considered
a sin to have done work on that day ; and this by the farmer
was considered a Judgment. Wherefore in future he reUgiously
kept that day sacred, and vowed that 2 Wax Candles should
annually on that day be burnt in Llanddwyn Church, in honour
of D-wynwen, and for the prosperity of the farm stock ; and when
the body of the Church became a perfect ruin, the porch over the
South door was kept in repair by the Proprietor of Bodowen,
and of almost aU this parish, for the purpose of placing the
Candles therein ; a custom not discontinued above 60 years.
At the prebendal house of Llanddwyn were frequent meetings
held in favour of the Earl of Richmond, -with whom they corres
ponded in France, as well as -with Sir Rhys ap Thomas in So.
Wales, by means of fishing boats. Some parts of the WaUs of
this house still remaining.
Newborough.
Once the County to-wn ; a wretched place now. The chief
UveUhood of the people is by making mats and ropes of the Sea
Rushes growing on the sand banks, which they reap and dry for
that purpose, though there is an Act against it. The three first
Burgesses returned to ParUament were for this place. After the
time of Ed. 1st it consisted of 93 houses, 13 Gardens, one Orchard,
12 Crofts, and 60 small fields for the To-wnsmen. It was a
flourishing place 400 years ago in the time of Dafydd ap Gwilym.
Here he first saw his beloved Morfydd at the Wake kept 29th
June, St. Peter's day, and she most probably was from the neigh
bourhood. Its ancient name Rhos hir.* In Dafydd ap G-wil3nn's
time it is described as a woody grove, and in these woods he is
suposed to have had Interviews -with his Morfydd, but perhaps
the wood was the growth of the Poet's fancy subUmed by love.
Alas how changed from the luxuriant character he gives, not
only of the landscape, but also of its inhabitants — ^their elegance,
their hospitaUty, and the luxurious abundance of every good
thing. But Tempora mutantur alas, and in derision the ViUagers
now are called Hwyiaid Newbwrch, Newborough Ducks, o-wing
to their going barefoot for the most part.
* ActuaUy, Rhos Fyr— the Bosuir of the " Vita S. Kebii " (Cotton MS.
Vesp. A. XI'V). From the form it would appear that byr was formerly
used for the fern., now ber. — Ed.

appendix^i 271
Llangaffo.
In this parish is a WeU caUed Crochon Cajfo, Caffo's boUer, at
which they formerly offered Cocks for appeasing the Cries of
Infants pee-vish and cross. The Priest had the offerings, and no
doubt the Cocks were Capons. Llanidan
In the waU of this Church is the famous stone Giraldus talks
of, Maen Mordd-wyd.
Plas newydd anciently called Llwyn Moel, the conical grove.
Llanfaes.
Out of Dafydd ap Gwilym's Monody on Griffith Grug of
Aberffraw, where it is said that the latter was buried at
Llanfaes : — Tost y chwedl gan ddyn ediaes
Roi 'nghor Ua-wn fynor Llanfaes
Gymain (dioer gem ai deurudd)
O gerdd ag a roed i gudd
Rhoed serchawgrwydd egwyddor
Me-ivn Cist yngwaelod y Cor
Ua-wi-wr iawngamp Uariangerdd
Llyna gist yn lla-wn o gerdd
Och haelgrair Fair LTchelgrist
Na bai agorai y gist.f
Thus EnsHshed : — •
Severe is the tale of a bard of low erudition, that in the marble Choir
of Llanfaes, so much song (the precious fruit of his head) has been hid as
ever could have been hidden. He so dear to literature has been laid in
a chest deep beneath the Choir. Considered then as he was the prime
steerer of the mild song, there then is a Chest full of Song. Alas, for the
sake of the full healing reUcs of Mary, the Mother of high Christ, that there
would be found some one to open this chest.
Though Maelgwn G-wynedd is said to have been buried at
Priestholm, he certainly was buried where he died, at Egl-wys
Rhos, according to that Welsh Une : —
Hir hun Faelgwn yn Eglwys Rhos.
Llanddona.
In this parish is the Hamlet of Broginin, in which the neigh
bouring people have a tradition that Dafydd ap Gwilym was born,
and they show you ruins of a building which they caU Ty Wilym,
t Poem CXXVIII. of his published -works.— Ed.

272 TOURS in WALES
being the remains, as is said, of Dafydd's Father's House. But
the prevailing opinion is that he was a South WaUan, though the
dialect in his poems, the scenes of his Actions, the Customs and
manners he deUneates are all Venedotian.
Pentraeth — Llanfair Bettws Geraint.
The real founder was not the old Geraint contemporary -with
Arthur, but one of that name who Uved in the time of Griffith
ap Cynan, the head of Plas Gwyn family, who had his residence
here. This Geraint had a Son called Einion, who had a Daur
to whom Howel, the Son of Owen Gwynedd, paid his addresses,
and he had a rival ; but it was agreed that the most active of the
two in leaping should possess her. Accordingly, on a spot caUed
Abernodwydd, it was to be decided by 3 leaps, and Howel won
the prize. For a memorial, 3 Stones were pitched in the ground,
to mark the extent of each leap, which are to be seen to this day.
His rival, as is the tradition, broke his heart and died on the spot.
Mathafarn eithap.
Means the farthest hospital. 3 Cromlechs in this parish — 2 at
Rhos fa-wr and one at Marian Pant y Saer.
Amlwch.
From a lake which stood close to it. Am, the prefix, signifying
close to. The Writer remembers part of the lake existing, though
now entirely drained. Llanelian.
CaswaUon Law hir had a residence near this church called to
this day Llys CaswaUon. The remains stiU to be seen. The
Church built probably in consequence of his residing here. He
endowed the Church -with much Lands.
There is in the Church a Cyff, or strong Chest, in which the
offerings were kept, which only ceased a few years past.
Llanvihangel ym Mhenrhos.
In this parish, at a farm house called Pentre rianallt, were
brought up the celebrated Brothers, Le-wis, Richard and Wiffiam
Morris. Their father a Cooper and a house Carpenter. The 3
Brothers were made by their father to handle the Ax, and it was
said that the 3 joined in building a smaU sloop, which, when

APPENDIX  1 273
finished, they called Y Piccyn, the Noggin, and it was reported
that in this Vessel Lewis Morris made his survey of the Coast of
Wales. Llanddeusant.
In this parish is a farm called Bodwigan, whose proprietors
descended from Hwfa ap Cynddelw. One, John, Heir of the
Estate, had a Son named Rowland. This Rowland had 2 Sons
and a Daughter, which daughter married a John George of
Llanfihangel Tre'r Bardd, by whom she had 2 Sons, one of whom
was W"". Jones, Esq'^., F.R.S., the famous Mathematician, who
died in London in 1749, lea-ving behind him one Son, Sir W"".
Jones. Though a Master of several languages, yet was ignorant
of his o-wn. Being once in the French Court, the King observed
to one of his Courtiers what an extraordinary man he was, to be
Master of so many languages. The Courtier replied it was, and
as much a wonder that he was ignorant of that of his own country
BODWROG.
There is at a place called Cors yr Eira a brook. The high road.
to Llanerchymedd, and the ford is called Rhyd Mary benwen.
This woman was of easy virtue, and benwen was a term of re
proach. She, coming with her neighbours one Evening from
Market, her horse stopt to drink, and the Company rode on;
when, soon, her horse overtook them, seemingly in a fright,
without its rider. They returned back to look for the woman, but
after making a diUgent search they could not find her, nor was
she ever found or heard of after. This happened about 70 years
ago, and the ford ever since was so called.
Llanerchymedd.
A large place now and good market, yet about 120 years ago
it is said the place consisted only of a few Cottages on the side
of the Chapel-yard, when a Gentlewoman who Uved at Chwaen
bach, an ancestor of Sir Watkin W. Wjnm, used to come every
Wednesday -with a number of small bags of Oatmeal which she
sold to the poor, ready measured, and she became kno-wn by the
name Sidn y blawd Ceirch. She was the beginning of the Market
here. I remember an old Woman about 50 years ago, who gave
this account of her, whom she remembered well.
This Sian must have been the Jane, Daughter of Roger
Hughes of Plascoch, Esq"^., Sheriff of Anglesey in 1685, who
married Owen W""^., son of 0. W""^., of Chwaen isaf, Esq^

274 tours in wales
GwAREDOG Chapel.
There is a Gwaredog in Carnarvonshire, but that is named
probably from a slow-running River by it caUed Gwaredog.
Aberffraw
was the chief residence of y^ British Princes for upwards of
430 years. There is a lake a Mile to the East of it called Llyn
y Goron, and there was lately the remains of a walk raised about
2 Feet above the common path, and about 30 yards in length,
caUed Talar y Twysog, the Prince's Walk, now occupied by a
Methodist Chapel. There is also an old house, given by the late
Sir Arthur Owen for a school house, said to have been the Chapel
to the royal Mansion. It is said the Palace stood in a [field]
at the West back of the ViUage, where some tumps remain, seem
ingly the foundations of buildings.
They make at this place a sweet Cake caUed, eminentice gratia,
Teisen Aberffraw, and considered as superior to any sweet
Cake yet invented. It has been baked here time immemorial,
unaltered in size, form, or sweetness — ^perhaps a relick of the
luxurious Era of the regal Establishment here.
Llangwyfan Parish.
In this is said to be a Quarry of fine White Marble, but that the
proprietor will neither work it himself nor let any other work it.
BoDORGAN Chapel and Vault.
Upwards of 50 years ago, a Pierce Mejo-ick, 2^ son of Owen
Meyrick of Bodorgan Esq"^., had been laid in this Vault, who had
spent his Ufe in a proffigate manner, which brought him to an
untimely end. He won the affection of Lady Lucy, Daur to
the Earl of Londonderry, and married her (she died at a very
advanced age, Jany 24, 1802). Soon after Pierce's Interment, a
couple of young Women came early on Sunday before the Service
began, and looking on the painting in Bodowen Chapel, they were
alarmed by a noise under Bodorgan Chapel attended with a
violent human Scream. They took to their heels, and certainly
related the Story. But some time after, when another of the
Bodorgan fainily was to be interred in this Vault, on its being
opened, the coffin of this Pierce was found to have sUpt from its
seat, and was pitched on end with y" feet upwards. This story
is true, as is beUeved.

appendix — I 275
Cerrig Ceinwen.
In this Churchyard there was lately a stone covering the grave
of a person who Uved at a farm called Plas bach in this Parish,
ui the time of the Ci-vil Wars, and was reputed to have Money.
A gang of the Rebels came one day on him with an intention to
rob him ; but he being a resolute, courageous Man, and happening
at the time to be in his Barn threshing, they demanded his
money with threats, brandishing their swords ; but he with his
flaU kiUed 8 of them, and he fell next. The tomb over him was
removed to help to pave the Church, and put -with its inscription
do-wnwards. N.B. — The stone was taken up before it was destroyed by the
late Humphrey Thomas of Waun fa-wr, and the foUo-wing is the
Epitaph : — Dyma yr Ue y dayarwyd Morys Lloyd y trydydd
dydd o Hydref 1647. H-wn a ymdrechodd ymdrech deg dros ei
Frenhin ai Wlad. Wrth ei ystlys i cladd-wyd i Assen Jane Rees
Owen yn gywely iddo, y 4 o Dachwedd 1653.
Humphrey Thomas picked up the same tradition that he had
kiUed 8 or 9 of the Rebels -with his flail, but that one of them
happened to cut the thong of his flail with his sword, after which
they easily conquered him.

II.
Historia Bellomarisei, OR
The History of the To-nnsr and Burrough
of Beaumaris.*
[Circa 1669.]
This Town was built by Edward I. in the 25^'^ year of his Reign,
A.D. 1295, in a place called Bonover Marsh, and it was waUed
about and strengthened -with a Castle on the East end thereof
to awe the Welsh' Some -wiU have it caUed from Bimaris, as
Horace calls Corinth Bimaris Corinthus, Hor : Lib. 1. Od. 7,
from the meeting of two Seas or Tides near the place. Others
from the French Beau and Marais, a beautiful Marsh.
In this To-wn take a -view of 5 thmgs (viz.), the Church, the
* MS. 4.49.
t2

276 tours in wales
School, Castle, Sea and Port adjoining, Burrough and Corporation,
together with its Liberties, Franchizes, and Government thereof.
1^*, The Church, now called the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin
Mary at Beaumaris, though a Chapel of Ease to the Mother
jChurch of Llandegvan, but before the building of Beaumaris,
Meugan Chapel (the ruines whereof remain to this day on Meugan
HUl, near the Tovm, on the Lands of Lord Bulkley), was the
Chapel of Ease to Llandegvan. The Church consists of 3 Aisles,
Southern, Middle, and Northern, and though the Church be
called the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, yet the Southern and
Northern Aisles are caUed by special Names in antient writings,
the one by the name of St. Mary's Chapel, and the other of St.
Nicholas's Chapel. And there are two fair Windows, one at the
East end of the Southern Aisle, the other at the East end of the
Northern Aisle, where there were Altars placed and Mass said
in times of Popery. There are here two Lofts, one in the North
Aisle, for common Burgesses and Apprentices to sit, and the other
at the West end (reaching the whole breadth of the Church)
for the lower Scholars of the Free School to sit in, in times of
Divine Ser-vice. The pulpit is placed somewhat inconveniently
near a stone pillar between the middle and Northern Aisles, with
this Inscription in Hebrew — " Cor meum eructat verbum
bonum," Psalm 45, 1. There is a Steeple and a Bellfrey ad
joining furnished -with 3 tuneable Bells, new cast at the charge
of the Town, a.d. 1660. There is also a Chancel contiguous,
supposed to have been built by the honourable family of the
Bulkeleys, because they claim all burjing places in it as their own
right. In the midst of this Chancel there is a fair tomb of
Alabaster (that -will contain 6 large Coffins at least), where the
deceased Branches of that family Ue interred. And the Tradi
tion is. That at the dissolution of the Priory of Llanvaes (which
was a burying place of great note in times of Popery) three
Monuments were brought thence, one to the Chapel of St. Mary
at Beaumaris, for the use of the Bulkleys, another to Penmynydd
in Anglesey, for the use of the Owen Theodores of Penmynydd,
and the 3"^'^ to Llandegai in Carnarvonshire, for the Grij[fiths of
Penrhyn. Upon the surface of the said Tomb a Man and Woman
Ue on their backs, all in Alabaster, with Lions at their feet,
said to belong to Kings, for some of the Kingly Race were buried
in the said Priory, especially King John's Daughter. Round
about the Tomb on the sides of it hang several Escutcheons of
Alabaster bearing the several Coats of Arms given by the s"*
honourable family. In this Chancel there are other Monuments

APPENDIX — II

277

worth taking notice of, as 1^*, the Monument of one Richard
Bulkley and EUzabeth his wife in brass,* fastened in the wall on
the North side, in this Form : —

God the Father in the shape of
an old Man (contrary to the
2'! Commandm'), pitying and
commiserating his Son Jesus
Christ on the Cross

A Priest holding a Cup in
his hand, -with this 'Voice
proceeding from him —

The "Virgin Mary -with the
blessed Babe in her Arms
and this Voice coming
from her —

Richard Bulkley in a pray-
i^ig posture, with hands
lifted up and a Son stand
ing on his right hand.

Elizabeth his 'Wife in a
praying posture and two
Daughters on her right
hand.

Hoc tegitur tumulo Ricardus nomine Bulkeley
Hujus Mercator providios oppiduli
Elizabeth Conjux custos fldissima lecti
Conjugiiciue, sub hoc marmore clausa jacet
luncta Deo vivis fuerat quibus una voluntas
Post obitura maneant unus et in tumulo.

2. Grave Stone of Tho^ Bulkeley-

o

TB AB

o

0

P

o

Here are the Arms

^

s

of the Bulkeleys

"^

t-)

o

B
S3,
o
H
o
cr
o
o
o
cr'
W
>¦
f.
b
s-
Of
vj
Ol
CO
This Stone lay formerly
on the North side of the
Chancel under the former
Monument.
?This brass is illustrated m Arch. Camb., 1856, p. 312, and 1895,
p. 155, which should be consulted, as the above reading differs in several
respects. — ^Ed.
278 TOURS IN WALES
3. The Grave Stone of Rowland BuUiley after this form—

1592
Here are the Arms
of the Bulkleys

This stone lies in the
Ascent near the Altar.

Hic Iacet
Rolandi Arm. XX Die
Anno 15

Corpus Bulkeleyqui obiit
Augusti
Domini
92

4. The Monument of D"^ Thomas Caesar aUas Aldemare in this
form —

Arms of
Doctor Cassar
& Joan his Wife.
Memoriae sacrum

Ornatissimi -viri Thomse Csesar S.S.
Theologies professoris filii sexti D"" Julii
Csesar Equitis Aurati Rotulorum Magistri
& serenissimis Regibus Jacobo
& Carolo a secretioribus Consiliis, qui
summse spei juvenis Osonise in
Collegio Regiuali politiores
inchoavit literas. Adultior factus
lectissimse Coll : omnium animarum
ascriptus est societati. Demum
Rector Ecclesise Llanrhyddlad.
Cantabrigise tarn merita quam insoUta
indulgentia doctoratus assumpsit
gradum ; Sic utriusque Academise
summis eveotus honoribus juvenis
adhuc (annos mentis prseveniens)
vitam morte commuta-vit 5*°
Martii 1632 ^tatis suse 32.
loanna Csesar Conjux amantissima
filia & unica hseres Hugonis ap 'WUliam
Prichard Arm : de Comot IJivon Anglesey
hoc monumentum amoris ergo extrui
curavit A.D. 1634.

This is sett up in the waU at the East comer of the ChanceU
above the following monument.

APPENDIX — II

279

5. The Monument of WilUam Thwaytes Esq'' in this form-

Henricus Sidney ordinis
Garterii miles prsesidens
ex consiliis marchiis
WalliiB Dominus Deputatus
in Hibernia.

Antonius S*. Leger
Ordinis Garterii Miles
Quondam Deputatus
in Hibernia.

Obiit 20 Die Januarii 1565.

Nosce teipsum fide & tacitumitate.

This Stone is set upright in the waU at the east Corner of the
Chancel.

280 TOUES IN WALES
6. The Monument of Margarett -wife of William Jones a Coun-
sellour att law afterwards Sir WilUam Jones Knight one of the
Judges of the Common Pleas in this foUo-wing form —
Mail 10 1609
Memorise sacrum
Margaritse Gulielmi Jones J C".
De Castellmarch Lle3?nsB uxoris
Feminse in conjugis solamen
Natae
Ejusdemque maximo incommode
Heu denatse, cui XXI aimos
Non animo minus quam Corpora
Unita vixit
Y filios peperit
Quorum primum & ultimum
Gulielm. Londini hunc domi ereptum
Flevit, reliquos
Cum 'VI filiabus liquit superstites
Annoque XXXV" setatis obiit
Margaritse suse vere margariticse
Msestissimus Conjux F F.
Ad Viatorem
Chara satu mulier, superans virtutibus ortum
Hic jacet ; undecies mater amata viro.
Lleynse nata, Mouse discessa poloque recepta, hue
Margarita adfert Ossa, memento mori.
This Monument is set up in the WaU at the North Corner of the
Chancel. In the East Window of the Chancel above the Altar there are
several Coats of Arms in the Glass, as — 1=* The Arms of the
Bulkeleys, quartered with the Arms of the Lord Burgh.
2. The Arms of the Somersetts or Marquesses of Worcester,
on the North side of the Bulkleys.
3. The Arms of the House of Derby, on the South side of the
Bulkleys. 4. Below there are the Arms of the Cecills and Lords Burleigh ;
and the Arms of the Earls of Lincoln, as I take it.
To this Chancel a Vestry is contiguous, for the use of the
Rector and Churchwardens, built by the same right hon'''^'.
of the Bulkleys, in which Ue interred the Bodies of the Lady
Beatrice Herbert, daughter of that Lord Herbert of Cherbury
whose name is memorable for the History of Henry the Eight.
And of Grono Da-vies, Master of Arts, sometime Head Master
of the Free School of Beaumaris, upon whom this foUo-wing

APPENDIX — II 281
Epitaph was composed and inscribed upon a Stone to be laid on
his Grave, but since broken and canceUed—
Here lies learning friendship love
Here lies the Innocence of the dove
Within this grave and in this dust
His ever precious body must
UntiU the Resurrection lie
Then he shall live and death shall die.
The Cemiterium of said Chapel is well planted with Ash and
Yew, and here to give you some account why Yew Trees are
planted in Churchyards. It was a Custom in the Romish Church
on Pahn Sunday to bless branches of that tree and Pahn, of which
was made the holy Ashes used upon Ash Wednesday by the
Priest, signing the people in the Forehead, and saying. Memento,
homo, quod pulvis es, & in pulverem reverteris. Of the same
branches blessed they used to stick some in the field in Rogation
week, or such time as they went processione. There is a common
saying. That it is dangerous to sleep under an Yew tree. I am
sure it is no less than death to sleep tmder it in the Churchyard,
for there the dead are buried.
Some of the ancient Rectors of Beaumaris and Llandegvan were
these —
Ralph Blaystones, Clerk, 6 Hen : 5, A.D. 1421.
Wffliam Ford, A° 32 and 38 Hen : 6, A.D. 1469.
John Audley, A.D. 1500. He built the house where Mr. Robert
Owen, the Schoolmaster, now Uves, at the entrance into the
Churchyard, and left it to the honourable Family of the Bulkeleys,
with this condition in his deed (which I have seen), that the Rector
of Beaumaris should always dwell there if he desired it and paid
the usual rent.
The Advowson of the Rectory of Llandegvan and Beaumaris
was first granted to Sir Richard Bulkeley the Great Grand father
of Robert Lord Viscount B — now Uving, by Arthur Bulkley,
Lord Bishop of Bangor, in this manner. King Hemy the
eighth, as supreme head of the Church of England, granted his
Ucence under the great Seal to the Bishop, Dean and Chapter of
Bangor to pass the Advowson or right of presentation to the
Rectory of Llandegvan and Beaumaris, which was accordingly
passed by them to the said Sir R'*. Bulkley and his heirs for ever
by two solemn Instruments (which I have had the sight of)
under then: hands and pubUck seals, the Instrument of the

282 TOUES IN WALES
Bishop bearing date JuUi 8^°. die A.D. 1546, and that of the Dean
and Chapter dated decimo de JuUi A.D. 1546.
After the Advowson came into the hands of the Bulkleys,
I cannot learn who were their first presentees, but in process
of time, I find these Incumbents in the Rectory —
1. Rowland Bulkeley, Rector of Beaumaris and Ukewise of
Llanddyfnan, 1592.
2. Launcelot Bulkley, half Brother to Sir R"*. Bulkley, the
grandfather of this present Lord. The said Launcelot once
lodged in a ground room upon the right hand as you go from the
Common shore to Captain ArundeUs House. Afterwards he
dwelt in the house that is now in th,e tenure of Mr. Robert Owen,
Schoolmaster. He bought houses and lands in and near Beau
maris (which are now the possessions of his Grand child Sir
Richard Bulkley of Old Bawne, near Dublin), and was thence
translated to the Archbishoprick of DubUn, by the Interest of
his Sister, Lady Valentia, Wife of the Lord Vise*. Valentia of
Chapel Izard, near DubUn.
3. John Lloyd, the heir of Henblas in Anglesey, who was the
Author of that Christmas Carol, or rather Xmas Sing-song,
in use to this day — 1.
The promise made to Abraham
To be perform'd in Israel's race.
The Jews that of his lineage came
It to enjoy had not the Grace,
¦Which he therefore hath kept for us.
Qui hodie natus est Christus.
Chorus.
Rejoice aU hearts both far and near.
This day was bom our Saviour dear.
Disperse his praise from East to West
Messias hodie natus est.

The Quire of Heaven at Xt his birth
Did utter Songs melodiously.
And unto Shepherds here on earth
Sing glory and praise to God on high,
On Earth to Men both peace and rest
Nam Christus hodie natus est.
Chorus.
Rejoice all hearts, etc.

APPENDIX — II 283
3.
Though we through Sin to Death had bound
Mankind which over the Earth had spread,
*Mary through Grace did heal the wound, * Popery.
When Christ did crush the Serpent's head.
And by his Death in flesh o'recame.
As he had vow'd to Abraham.
Rejoice, etc. 4.
O ! Mary mild, 0 ! pure Virgin,
Most blessed of all Women-kind,
*Full of Grace, devoid of Sin, * Popery.
*Miraculously that hast incHn'd * Nonsense.
Thyself in that thou'st made to bear
Whom Heaven, Earth, Hell, and Sea do fear.
Rejoice, etc. 5.
When Christ was born his nobleness
*Was his Mother's Virgmitie, " Nonsense.
And also she did stand no less
On her dear Son's divinitie.
So 'Virgin Mother, God and Man,
As he had vow'd to Abraham.
Rejoice, etc. 6.
The Wise Men from the East on far
At Bethlehem were strait arriv'd,
Their only guide was a bright Star
Which led them where the Child was laid,
Our Saviour Christ the Messias
In stable t-svixt the Ox and Ass.
Rejoice, etc. 7.
They offer Gold, Myrrh, and Incense,
€rold as unto a Bang truly.
Incense to God for Man's offence,
Meaning that he for Man should die.
His Mystery declar'd was then
That Jesus Christ was God and Man.
Rejoice, etc. 8.
Pray we to him that as this day
Was bom to save from Satan's rage
Then that on him by faith do stay
That he bring us to heritage
Where Angels sing continually
All Glory and praise be God on high.
Rejoice, etc.

284 TOURS IN WALES
This Carol I have here set down not for any good Poetry or
sense in it, but for Antiquity's sake, and for the esteem of it
amongst that Vulgar to this day. And to shew that the common
people will prize any ancient thing, though never so corrupt
and nonsensical.
4. D''. Rowland Cheadle was a Man of excellent facetious
Wit, of which I shall give you some Instances. He caused a
Painter to draw his picture on a Pane of Glass, and this Motto
to be inscribed underneath — Nunc primum transparui. But
though he was a facetious Man, he was no great PoUtician, for
any man might see through him and discern the very secrets
of his heart.
When Hugh Courtney, Governor of Beaumaris, made Bulwarks
about that Town, A.D. 1652, in the Year that King Charles the
Second marched to Worcester, he cut Turfs in the Castle Meadow
and fiU'd that whole field to make up the said Bulwarks, where
upon the Doctor cracked this Jest, " Woe be to us when Beau
maris stands in the midst of Castle Meadow." When Major
General Mytton walk'd towards the Green of Beaumaris, -with
Captain Pitchford on his right hand, and one James Paynter,
a Surgeon, on his left, two empty fellows, he compared him to
an ass between two empty Panniers.
When his Brother Tho^ Cheadle was arraign'd for poysoning
S'' Rich"! Bulkeley the younger, and was acquitted thereof after
great trouble and hazard, A.D. 1633, he gave him this Motto out
of Virgil — Adversis rerum mersabilis Undis.* '
And in the same year, being sensible of the Inconstancy of fortune,
the uncertainty of Ufe, and the certainty of Death, he made a
Greek Epitaph for himseU prout sequitur —
Mando filio meo et amicis superstitibus
Epitaphium hoc quod in -vivis agens ipse
inscalpi ouret Tabulae marmorese quae
e muro meo immineat sepulchro.
Et tumulum facite, & tumulo superaddite carmen.
Latin Translation of the Greek Epitaph.
Hsec teUus servat membra exanimata Rolandi
Et ossa sicca Chedlei
Quid fixis oculis frustra hoc in pulvere quaeris
Mentem perire nesciam.
=* This line is -wrongly attributed. It is from Horace, Epodes, I. i. 16,
and refers to Ulysses' adventures. It reads "immersabilis." — Ed.

APPENDIX — ^11 285
Mens -vivit, Dominique sinum tenet, Alme Viator,
Hic tantulum Exu-viae jacent
Ascendit Culmen Coelorum ubi cantica fundit
Immixta Sanctorum choris
Vive memor mortis ; Mors regibus ajquat egenos
Par omnium in tumulo cinis.
5. WilUam WiUiams, M.A., present Rector of Beaumaris and
Llandegvan, and also of the adjoining rectory of Lansad-wm.
To the Church or Chapel of Beaumaris belong'd the Chauntry
of our Lady, the Lands whereof are call'd S*. Mary's Fields to
this Day. And Chaunteries consisted of Salaries aUow'd to one or
more Priests to say daily Mass for the Souls of deceased Founders
and their Friends. Which not subsisting on themselves were
generaUy incorporated and united to some parochiaU Collegiate
or Cathedral Church.
The aforesaid D'. Cheadle made a copy of Verses for one of the
Scholars of Beaumaris School to beg a cessation Day from his
Master, M"^. Gronow Da-vies, in the wet Month of December as
follows — • Nimbosus plu-via December und&
Implevit fossas ; -vide ut lutosae
Arx notabiUs innatat paludi.
Transimus pavimenta semistrata
Calcantes loca lubrica & ipsi
Virtuti in-via, perviosque solis
CaUes anseribus, madente aluta
Siccandis pedibus precor Magister
Hujus quod reliquum est dato diei.
He did use to caU Cock fighting Bellum natum ex Ovo.
W. M., the Postmaster, being dead drunk and lying do-wn on
his face, the Doctor took chalk and wrote on his back
Post paid.
Conclusion of a letter from a Mr. Thomas Bulkely, SoUcitor for
the Officers and Burgesses of Beaumaris, directed to his very
good friend, R'^. Hampton, Mayor of the To-wm of Beaumaris —
Give this.
 ¦ You shall receive here inclosed a note, both of the Money I
reo<i in Hilary Term, and how it is layd out, and what other Money I have
layd out more than I received ; which overplus, together ¦with my Wages
for the last parliament, and my fee for this yeare, I hope you vidll send
mee with the first. Soe leaving to bee longer troublesome, I take my
leave. Your loving Friend
Lincolnes Inne Tho^ Bulkeley.
this xxiiij''' of June 1589.

0 10

0

1 0

0

0 5

0

1 0

0

0 10

0

1 0

0

0 1

4

0 2

0

286 TOURS IN WALES
The Note of Money mentioned in the precedent Letter.
Rec"! in Hilary Terme — £6
Layd out as followeth —
Imprimis to M'. SoUicitor for his Fee ag' the hearing
Item to M"^. Serjeant Glanville for same day
Item to Burcher the Attorney same day
Item the second Day to attend the hearing to M''. SoUicitor
Item same Day to M'-. Glan-vUle
Item S"^ Day to M^'. SoUicitor
Item to the Master of the Office for the order same day . . .
Item for entering said Order ...
Castle of Beaumaris.
The Castle was built by Edward 1^* in the same year as the
Town, who appointed a Governor by the name of Constables.
A List of Constables here follow —
1. Sir WilUam Pickemore, a Gascoigne Knight, was the first
Constable of the Castle constituted there by King Edward 1'*.
upon his Agreement with Wales.
2. His Son.
3. His Grandson.
Sir John de Sapy Kn*. A°. Regni Reg. Edwardi 2^ decimo.
Sir W"». Scrope A°. 17 and 18 Ric. 2^. Adam le Clerk Deputy
Constable A°. 18 Ric. 2<i.
John Salby, 20 and 22 Ric. 2^.
Thos. de Bould 4*^. Hen. 4*^.
S^. W'". Newport Kn*. 10 and 13 Hen. 4*^. and 2* and 3^. Hen. 5.
Sir Ra. WaUcestead 9th. gen. 5. 4*^. 7*^. 8*^. and 20*^. Hen. 6.
Sir W". Beauchamp Kn*. 25. 26. 30. 33. 35 and 36 Hen. 6.
Sir J™. BottiUer vel ButtiUer Kn*. 36 and 38 Hen. 6.
W"". Bulkeley his Deputy, 1458.
W-". Lord Hastings A°. 1. 2. 4. 6. 8. 9. Ed. 4. J^^". Mael Esq^
his Deputy.
Anthony Earl of Rivers 14 and 17 Ed. 4. W. BuUiely his Deputy.
Sir Tho^ Molyneux Knight 22 Ed. 4.
Sir W". Staples 6 Hen. 7.
Sir R1. PuUow Kn*. 13 Hen. 7 and 17 Hen. 7.
Rowland Bulkeley Esq^ 18 Hen. 7.
Sir Rowland Ville-ville al^ S'. Rowl"*. Brittaine circa finem Reg.
Hen. 7 and begmning of Hen. 8.
Henry Morrys Esq^ 27 Hen. 8. Deputy S^. Richard Bidkeley.
Sir Henry Knyvett and S'. R''. Bulkely made Joynt Constables
of Beaumaris 14 June 28 Hen. 8, but Sir H. Knjrvett surrender'd
his Interest in the same the 18*^ June following to Sir Richard

APPENDIX — U 287
BiUkly. And the said Sir Richard Bulkly, for his non-attendance
on Hen. 8*^. in his Wars beyond the Seas ag*. the French was forc'd
to sue out his pardon in hoec Verba —
Hemy the eight, by the Grace of God King of England, Fraunce, and
Ireland, Defender of the faith and Church of England and also of Ireland
in Earth supreme Head. To all them to whom these present letters shall
come, greeting. Whereas S''. B,^. Bulkely Kn'. hath of our gift by our
Letters Pattents to him, and S'-. Henry Knyvett Kn'. joyntly made, the
Constableshipp of Beaumaris and Captaineshipp of our Towne of Beaumares
in NorthwaUes during his life by reason whereof the s''. S^'. R*. of his
bounden dutie ought to have attended upon our royall person now being
in the Warres beyond the Sea ag'. our auncient Enemy the French King,
according to the Statutes in that case ordayned and established. And
notwitlistanding that the same S''. Richard by reason of his abode att
home -within our Realme of England and not gi-ving his attendance upon
om: person hath incurred the damages of the sayd Statutes, yet considering
the humble suite of the sayd S^'. Richard made to our Counsell and Com
missioners appointed by us to compound with such persons our Patentees
as doe stay att home and considering likewise how that the same S"^ R''.
has now compounded for his licence and Dispensation in that behaulfe.
Know that wee of our grace especiall and mere motion have licensed and
by these presents doe give Ucence to the sayd S'. R*. that hee may att his
Ubertie and pleasure abide and tarry att home and not to be coerced or
constrayned to give his personall attendance upon our person in this
Voyage and for tfiis time of our absence Wee doe clearlye dispense with
him for the same any statute or statutes heretofore made to the contrarie
heereof not-withstanding, and that -without any forfeiture of his sayd
Letters pattents or any other losse damage or daunger that may growe
or come to the sayd S"^. Richard in this behaulfe. In Wittnesse whereof
wee have caused these our letters to be made pattents, witnesse our Dearest
entirely beloved Wyf e Katherine Queene of England and general govemesse
of the same at Westminster the eleventh day of Sept^'. in y«. 36 yeare of
our Reigne.
Southwell.
Per ipsum Regem
Virtute Commissionis regise.
N.B. — The Expedition referred to above was the Siege of
BuUoigne, and the Queen was Katherine Parr, 6*^ Queen of
Hen. 8*h.
John Duke of Northumberland circa finem Hen : 8 and prin-
cipio Ed : 6.
John Earl of Bath. Temp. Ed : 6 and Reg. Mariae.
Richard Bidkely Esq'. Son and Heir apparent of Sir R'^.
Bulkely K*. 8°. MaU A°. EUz : 3°.
Richard BuUiely Esq'. Son of S'. R'^. B. : Kn*. A°. 14°. Jac.
N.B.— This Richard BuUiely Esq', was of BaronhiU who
dyed at Carnarvon.

288 TOURS IN wales
Sir Edwi Lewis. His Deputy was R* Vaughan of Beaumaris,
Gent, Edward Earl of Dorset A°. 1631 or therabouts; L,is
Deputy was Thos. Cheadle Esq'.
Thos. Lord Bulkely Vise*. Cashel in Ireland.
Then happened an Interval of Governors instead of Constables
in the times of the late confusions (-viz.) from 1640 to 1660,
which was the year of King Charles the Second's restoration (-viz.)
P' Thos. Mytton, called Major General. The Deputies were
Capt. Tho^ Synbys, Major Edw^. Moore, and ai^. Capt. Hugh
Courtney. 2. Col. John Jones whose Deputy was Capt. Will : Wray.
Rob*- Lord Bulkly made Constable A.D. 1660, whom God
long preserve.*
This Castle a great Burden to the people tmtil by favour of
Hen : 8 the Garrison was reduced to 12 Warders and committed
to the sole care of the Constable.
After EdW^. had built Beaumaris and incorporated it, he
gave them large pri-vileges and competent lands, which last he
effected by removing the freeholders of this tract to other parts
and gi-ving them lands elsewhere in exchange, as for example,
the old House of Henllys was the Seat of Gwerydd ap Rhys
goch, one of the 15 Tribes of N. Wales, and of his posterity ;
but Edward at the founding his Corporation removed them to
Bodelwyddan in FUntshire, to bestow Henllys on the new Cor
poration. N.B. — There happened a great affray between the Garrison
and the countrymen on a Market Day in the time of Hen. 6*'',
which in after times was called the Black Fray, Y Fray ddu yn y
Beaumaris, wherein Da-vid ap Evan ap Howel of Llwydiarth in
Twrkelyn Esq', and many others were killed.

The Commission of the Constable of y" Castle of Beaumaris
ran in haec Verba —
Eliz : Dei gratia etc. Omnibus ad quos presentes Literse perveniunt
Salutem. Sciatis quod nos de gratia nostra speciali ac ex certa scientia
et mero motu nostris dedimus et conoessimus ac per presentes pro nobis
haeredibus et successoribus nostris damns et conoedimus dilecto nobis
Ric°. Bulkely Arm : filio et haered. appar. R. B. Militis officium Constabular :
Castri nostri de Beaumaris, ac Officium Capitanei "Villas nostras de Beaumaris
* I believe I have gathered their names and successions rightly ; but
I could not find the beginning and ending of their regencies.

APPENDIX — II 289
in North Wall : Quse quidem Officia Johaimes nuper Comes Bathon :
jam defunctus nuper habuit et exercuit et quae in manibus et dispositione
nostris jam existunt ratione mortis pdict. Johnis nuper Com : Bath : ac
ipsum R : Bulkely Arm : Const : Castri nostri pdict. ac Capitaneum "VUlae
nostras predictas facimus ordinamus et constituimus p'-. presentes.
Habendum tenendum oocupandum gaudendum et exeroendum officia
predicta et eorum utrumque prefato R : B. Arm : tam per sufficientem
deputatum suum sive Deputatos suos suffioientes pro quibus respondere
voluerit pro termino "Vitse suae. Et insuper de uberiori Gratia nostra
dedimus et concessimus ac per presentes pro nobis hssredibus et successoribus
nostris damns et concedimus prefato R. B. Arm: quandam annuitatem
sive annualem reditum* quadraginta Marcarum legalis Monetae Anglise
p'. Annum in plenam oontentationem omnium et singulorum "Vad : Feod.
et regard, tam ipsius R. B. Arm : ut Constab : Cast : pdict. ac Capitanei
Vill : pdct quam omnium et singulorum Souldariorum in retentione ipsius
R. B. custodiend : de tempore in tempus morand : et moratur. ibidem
. . . . aimuatim pdictam annuitatem sive annualem reditum quad
raginta Marcarum pro termmo Vitse ipsius E,. B. de exitibus proficuis
et reventionibus Principalitatis nostrse North WaU : ad Festa ibidem
usualia per equates portiones per manus Camerarii nostri ejusdem Princi
palitatis pro temp, exist, cum omnibus aliis Vad : Feod : commoditatibus
proflcuis advantagiis Jurisdietionibus Authoritatibus pertinentiis alloca-
tionibus et emolumentis quibuscunque eisdem officiis et eorum utrique
aliquo modo pertinent, speotant. orescent, sive emergent, in tam amplis
modo et forma prout pdict Johannes nuper Dux North : vel Hen : Knyvett
Miles aut Hen : Norreys MUes seu eorum aliquis alius sive aliqui alii habuit
seu habuerant ante hsec tempora pro exercitio sive ocoupatione officiorum
predict : sive eorum alterius. Et hoc absque Compoto seu aliouo alio
proinde nobis hseredibus vel successoribus nostris quoquo modo reddendo
solvendo vel faciendo. Eo quod expressa mentio de certitudine premissorum
sive eorum alicujus aut de aliis donis sive concessionibus per nos vel per
aUquem progenitorum nostrorum prefato R. B. ante hasc tempora fact.
existent, aut aliquo statute Actu Ordinatione proclamatione pro-visione
sive restrictione inde in contrarium habit, fact. edit, ordinat. sive provisis
aut aUqua alia re causa vel materia quacunque in aliquo non obstat. In
oujus rei testimonium has litteras nostras fieri fecimus patentes. Teste
meipsa apud West : 28° Man Anno regni nostri 3°.
Per breve de privato sigUlo. Naylour.
It may be gathered by the form of this Commission, and by
other Records, that they who were the Constables of, were also
Captains of the To-wm. I find but one antient precedent to the
Contrary, viz.. Sir J°°. BotiUer Kn*. was Constable of the Castle
A° 36 Hen : 6, yet one Tho^ Norreys was Captain of the Town at
* I find that the Constable of the Castle of Beaumaris's Yearly Fee was
£40, and sometimes but 40 Marks. The Pee of the Captain of the Town
was £12 3s. 4d. The Porter or Keeper of the Gates of the Castle of Beau
maris had for his Fee £9 2s. 6d. But the office of Porter is there long since
disused. U

290 tours in wales
the same time. In the year 1631, or thereabouts, Ed"^, Earl of
Dorset, being made Constable of the Castle, appointed Tho^
Cheadle Esq' to be his Lieutenant and Deputy. The said
Cheadle A.D. 1638 assumed the Power of Captain of the Town
Company, and mustered them accordingly by -virtue of that
Clause in the Commission, Damus et concedimus Dilecto 
Officium Constab : etc. Hereupon a great Controversy arose
between R'^. B. of Baronhill Esq', and the s"^. Cheadle about the
Captainship of the Town. And though the said R. B. and the
Deputy Lieutenant appointed Henry White of the Friars Esq'.
Captain of the place, yet the said Cheadle used all endeavours to
keep possession of it, and made a great stir and bustle as appears
by the folio-wing Letter dated March 24, 1638, from the said H.
White Esq', to the s"!. R. Bulkely then at London.
Noble Sir,
On Friday Night I received by Post your kind Letter -written on
Wednesday before, and return you most humble thanks for your favours
and remembrances of your poor but true friend and servant. The insolence
of Cheadle iu his behaviour about the Captainship of Beaumaris is gro-wn
to the greatest height of contempt and affront of the power and commands
of the Lord Lieutenant and all you his Deputies that possibly may be.
For on Thursday last the Deputy Lieutenants sent a Letter subscribed by
Sir Tho^ HoUand, Owen Wood, and Rowl<i. White unto him to desire to
know by what warrant or authority he had countermanded me, whom
they had appointed Captain of the To-wn. As soon as this Letter was
deliver'd to him, he instantly caused his o-wn private Drum to be beaten
in the open Street all about the Town, and his Ensign to be borne. And
when they came over ag'. S^'. Tho'. Holland's House (he being then in
town) there they made a stand for a good while, and in a bravery, by waj'
of defiance of Mm as a Deputy Lieutenant, they beat their Drums and
advanced their Colours a long while there. After this a Boy that waits
on Doctor Cheadle came to S'. Thomas Holland and told him Mr. Cheadle
had sent him thither with a paper unto him which he deliver'd to S>-.
Tho^., and so went away (the paper itself I have also sent you herewith)
which is as it seems written out of the Earl of Dorset's Patent. But the
Boy neither shewed any Patent whereof that should be a Copy, nor any
warrant from the Earl of Dorset to authorize Cheadle to be his Deputie,
neither hath Cheadle so much as subscribed his name to testify that it is
a true Copy, but in a slighting manner sent this inclosed bare scrawl to the
Deputy Lieutenants in answer of their Letter signed by them, neither hath
he she-wn any warrant to any body. But tells all the town people he hath
the Great Seal of England, meaning the Patent, and so frightens them ; if
they come not unto him they shall smart. As soon as he sent this paper
to S'. Tho'. he in person marched down the Streets in his Scarlet with a
great plume of Feathers afore his Drum, and R'^. Vaughan carried the
Ensign -with him. William Hughes and Garnett Terry attended him as
Officers of his band, and so he marched into the Castle, having formerly
by his Drums summoned all the Souldiers of the To-wn before him there.

APPENDIX — II 291
but very few save Stodart or one or two more came unto him that day.
Only he and his Drum was foUowed through the Streets by his created
Officers, and all the idle people and Boys, which made a very unlawful
Assembly, and in these dangerous and troublesome times to convene people
together may be of ill consequence. The next day being Friday he caused
his Drum to be beaten again, and his Ensign to be carried about the
Streets, and proclamation to be made at the Cross and divers other places
to this effect, viz.. All Gentlemen, Soldiers, and Inhabitants of Beaumaris,
You are to appear before Mr. Cheadle, Lieutenant to the Earl of Dorset,
who ia Captain of the To-wn of Beaumaris, at the Castle by two of the
Clock, upon peril that may ensue. On Saturday again through the midst
of the Market (that the Country as well as the Town might take notice
of his Authority), he marched with his Drum, Colours, and Officers to the
Castle, and then by reason of his threats to return their names, and have
them fetched up if they appeared not. Very many came thither -with their
Arms to him, and he writes their names down in a List. And all this he
hath done in such an insolent and arrogant way, in boasting words and
beha-viour, as much tendeth to the affront of the noble Lord Lieutenant
and his Jurisdiction and of his Deputy Lieutenants' power, and he hath
from an interruption and opposition proceeded to an actuall usurpation
of what is conceived to be the right of our Lord Lieutenant and his subordi
nate Officers. AU which the Deputy Lieutenant here and myself (who
was appointed by you all to discharge that place he intrudes upon) do
earnestly desire you to signify unto the honourable our Lord Lieutenant,
and humbly beseech his Lordship to move for redress therein, for through
the sides of his Ministers he in this is wounded in his honour and authority,
which he and his officers have formerly had and enjoyed till Cheadle's
time. But to answer the Clause in the Patent of the Constable of the
Castle joining the Captainship of the To-wn -with j^ Constable-
ship, the said Henry White and others argued as followeth.
That the Patent of Constable of the Castle of Beaumaris may,
perchance (now as in the time when there was a garrison) contain
words of the Captainship of the To-wn, but the question is of what
force they are at this time.
Before the uniting of Wales to England the Constable of the
Castle of Beaumaris was, according to the words of his Patent,
Captain of the To-wm, ha-ving then aUowed him a Garrison of
24 soldiers, -with 4'^ p'. Diem apiece for their maintenance, had
annuaUy a distmct fee of £12 13 4 as Captain of the To-wTa,
and another Fee of £40 a year as Constable. Yet since the
mcorporating the Welsh and EngUsh, and the alteration of the
Government by the Statutes in that behaU made the allowance
for any garrison soldiers is quite extuict and none kept or mam-
tained, the particular fee of £12 13 4 is not continued to the
Captam, but the title of Constable and Captain is drowned in one,
and the former large fees contracted to £26 13 4, as may appear
u2

292 TOURS IN WALES
by records mentioned in Judge Doddridge his book of the Princi
pality of Wales, fol. 56 and 70.
So though the words of Captainship of y^ Town remain stiU
in the Constable's Patent of the Castle, yet I conceive they are not
of force now, for since both people are become one, what was
instituted to keep the Welsh in subjection before the Union is
aboUshed and of no vigour since. Yet the Titles with some small
stipend are still continued pro forma that somebody might pre
serve the materials of those ruined Castles from being imbezzled
and stolen.
N.B. — Cheadle was a mark of indignation in those days to aU
the great famiUes of this Country. And as the Constables of
the Castle were Captains of the To-wn by Patent and prescription,
so Ukewise they were Masters of the prisage of Wines and of Butler-
age in the Port of Beaumaris. And the Prizage of Wines men
tioned in the Stat. 5 H : 8 c. 5 is a Custom by which the King
out of every bark laden with Wine under 40 tons claims to have
two tons at his own price. Termes de lay, Pag : 505. See same
Statute for Butlerage. N.B. — In the Return of a Jury, the
name of John Griffith de Paris Gent, occurs, 1565. Quere if this
be the present Paris Mountain, so fam'd for its Copper Mines.
A Survey made of the Castle of Beaumaris
and of such things as now remain therein by
29th March Humphrey Jones Esq', his Majesty's receiver
1631 general of North Wales by virtue of letter to
him directed from the R'. ' Hon'=''=. Edward
Earl of Dorset now Constable of the s*. Castle
to require and authorize him thereunto which
was done in .the presence of Tho^ Cheadle
Gent : Deputy Constable of s*. Castle as
followeth.
Imprimis, in the outward ward of the s''. Castle there is one great brass
Culverin which is thought not to be serviceable by reason of crack it hath,
and a small french falconett of brass, and two stock fowlers of Iron fasten'd
in the Castle Wall, the Mouth of one of them looking to the Town of
Beaumaris, the other towards the passage or Ferry of said Town.
Item, I found the Gate house of s"^. Castle covered with lead, but so
decay'd and worn because of the extremity of y" Weather that the lead
hath many great holes in it.
There is another Tower caU'd the Gunners Tower which standeth towards
the Haven that I find covered with lead, and another Tower on the Bast
part of s<i. Castle call'd Windsor Tower which hath part of it cover'd -with
lead, the rest of it, being about the 3'1 part of it, better taken ofi and gone.
All the rest of the Lodgings in that Ward being ten Towers in number all
uncover'd and neither lead nor timber left.
Item, having done with that outward Ward I pass'd mto the inward

APPENDIX— II 293
Ward of the said Castle where I found a brass Robinett and Wheels and
carriages for the other two brass pieces that were in the outward Ward,
one pair of y^ Wheels being for the great brass piece and shod with Iron.
From thence coming to the Constable's Lodging which were antiently
call'd the King's lodging where I found a goodly pUe, but become a heap
of Ruins, the WaUs only standing, but the timber and lead fallen down
and lying all on heaps on the ground and am much in doubt that much of
that lead hath been imbezzled thence for that, for that I did observe
divers sheets of lead that lay partly under the timber cut, and some thereof
seem'd to be done very lately. There remains there likewise a boUer
of lead.
Item, I found in the inner ward Gatehouse a great heap of Iron Chambers
which by bad keeping most of them are eaten with Rust to nothing. I
found there also a quantity of lead lying loose which 1 guess and imagine
to be about 400"'. or 500*. Weight.
Item, I found that Gatehouse all cover'd with lead but beginning to
decay for want of Repair.
Item, I found the Chapel Tower well-cover'd with lead, and another
Tower call'd the Queen's Lodging wherein there is a heap of old Armour
decayed and eaten with rust.
Item, I found the Walls or Passage from Tower to Tower on the Walls
for the most part cover'd with lead, though something decay'd, but the
rest of the lodgings in that Ward being four great Towers altogether
uncover'd and neither lead nor timber left.
It«m, there is in the said inward Ward another Room which they call
the Chapel wherein the Store and munition of the County is kept, which
seemeth to be in very good repair, the Door whereof had two locks upon
it and the keys remain'd with some of the Deputy Lieutenants, so that
I did forbear to go to survey that Room untill my Lord's pleasure were
further signified concerning the same, uppon the Letter I did write unto
his Honour in May last.
This Castle was heretofore exactly survey'd and all things that remained
upon the death of S''. R'^. Bulkely the elder Kn'. late Constable of s''.
Castle, and at the coming to the place of S'' Edw"*. Lewis that succeeded
him in that office, a Copy whereof coming accidentally into my hands
I thought fit for the better satisfaction of my Lord to annex a true Copy.
A Description of the outward Waed of BBAtrMAKis.
Imprimis, one wooden Bridge that leads from the South gate of the
Castle being 15 yards in length, and 3 in breadth, all rotten and decay'd.
Item, the two towers of the said South Gate of the first Entrance of
y" outward ward being 19 yards in length, in breadth 8 yards, cover'd
over with thin lead, -with many holes and decay'd consisting of 3 heights.
Item, the first little Tower South-west from the af. Gate, being round,
5 yards over, -without lead or timber, having beneath 2 Rooms, a Tower
and a higher Room.
Item, 3 other little Towers, being round 3 yards over, without lead or
Timber, ha-ving under two rooms apiece as aforesaid.
Item, one other round Tower, 7 yards over, with one rotten Gunner
m the mid East, no lead, in height 8 yards, ha\'ing beneath two Rooms
as af<i.
Item, two other little Towers on Northside, 4 yards over, uncover'd.

294 TOURS IN WALES
Item, the Northgate without lead or timber, but vaulted over, and a
close passage under it, in breadth 4 yards, in length 18 yards, having
great holes upon the Top over the passage to let fall Stones if need were.
Item, the Corner Tower North East side, round 8 yards over, and 8 do.
in height with some lead and some timber, and leaded on the passage
about it, having beneath two rooms as sd'^.
Item, on North Bast side 3 small Towers 3 yards apiece over without
lead or Timber and two rooms as af''.
Item, the East corner Tower 5 yards over, cover'd with thin lead much
decay'd, 2 Rooms under.
Item, a stone open Gallery upon the East side and South, arched under
neath, in length 31 yards, a Tower on the End 4 yards over and open to
the Gallery, in breadth 3 yards, with a little To-wer 3 yards over, on the
one side open to the ground, and two little Gutters of lead.
The Dbsceiption of the breadth and length of the Inner
Ward which is the Main Castle.
The passage from the said Towers to the Tower Eastw''. being in breadth
4 yards, 18 long, cover'd with thin lead.
The two Towers on both sides the Inner South East Gate 14 yards in
breadth, 28 long, leaded thinly and decay'd roof ready to fall in, having
been 3 Rooms.
Passage about East Tower from said Gate Eastw''. 4 yards long and
as many broad, thinly leaded.
East Tower round 12 yards over and 12 high and foot to it, without
lead or tymber, as is the staircase.
Pass,ige from that To-n'er to the Chapel Tower East by North, 18 yards
long and 4 broad, of same height, thinly leaded with holes in it.
Passage by Chapel Tower 7 yards long 4 broad.
Chapel Tower almost .square, 8 yards long and J, 7 broad, thinly leaded
but decay'd, with passage round it not leaded.
Passage from Chapel Tower to Queen's Tower 20 yards long, 4 broad,
cover'd with decay'd lead.
Queen's Tower round 12 yards over, 12 and a foot high, thinly cover'd
with lead decay'd, a passage about 4 foot broad cover'd.
Passage about Queen's Tower leading to the passage leading to the hall,
3 foot broad 3 yards long.
Passage from Queen's Tower to the hall 14 yards long, 4 broad, cover'd
with decajr'd lead.
Passage from South East Gate, being the two Towers formerly mention' d,
towards the South West Tower, 18 yards long, 4 yards broad, cover'd -wdth
decay'd lead.
The South-west Tower round 12 yards over without lead. The Passage
about it on one side of it cover'd with lead 16 yards long 4 Foot broad,
and Stairs without lead.
Passage betwixt West Tower Northward, and the middle Tower 4 yards
broad 18 yards long cover'd with lead.
The Middle Tower being 2 yards without lead or timber, 12 yards and
a foot high, and stairs on both sides without lead. The Passage on the
one side of it is 4 yards long and 2 yards broad cover'd -with lead.
The Passage from the middle Tower to the North West Tower 4 yards
broad, 18 long, cover'd with lead.

APPENDIX — II 295
The North Tower round, 12 yards over, without lead or timber, with
stairs on one side. The passage on the other cover'd with lead 4 yards
long, 4 foot broad.
Passage between North Tower and y= Hall on that .side being cover'd
with lead 4 yards broad 17 long.
Measure of the first Room under where the Hall was is 8 yards long,
the Timber of that end of y" Hall fallen into this Room, and also the
lead that cover'd the haU, the Timber aU rotten. There is a stone Arch
over the middle part of the hall and some lead hanging upon it.
The second Room under ye haU 8 yards long and 8 broad. North East
end under the hall with some rotten timber and lead fallen into it from
the top.
The two inner Rooms being under the two towers of both sides the
gate Northward, one on one side of the passage, the other on the other
side, 9 yards long each and 6 broad. Lead and Timber fallen in.
There is some lead over the passage leading from one side of the hall
to the outward Ward, and timber, the top 18 yards long, 6 yards broad.
The Gate is 3 yards broad and passage 6 yards long.
The Passage upon the side of the hall next the South East gate is cover'd
with lead 4 foot broad and 21 yards long betwixt both towers.
The Tower at the South West end of y" Hall is round 4 yards, and
leaded over.
D". at the North East end of y" HaU round 4 yards leaded.
AH the inner Castle is of one height, viz., 12 yards and a foot, having
the two towers on the North Westgate somewhat higher.
We find to be in the Castle one brass Culverin. with a flaw in it, with
carriage belonging to it. We find also one Soker of brass without carriage.
We find also a Robinett, being a very small brass piece without carriage.
We find also two Iron Murderers -with many Chambers, but whose they
be as yet we know not.
We cannot learn of any other provision ordinance in the said Castle
saving such as are mention'd in this Schedule.
There is in the middle Room on the North East side one Chapel vaulted
over, and all along from one end to the other on both sides dark passages
to pass and many 'Vaults underneath the middle Rooms.
This is a true Copy of the former Survey made of this
Castle. Humffrey Jones.
But Tho^ Cheadle Esq', being made Deputy Constable of
said Castle tmder 'EdW^. Earl of Dorset sold a great quantity of
lead ofE it, and embezzl'd many other materials belonging thereto,
to y" great damage of King and Country.
From the time of 8". RowF. ViUeviUe to the time of the Ci-vil
Wars, 1642, no garrison kept there, and the said Cheadle began
to put men, ammunitions and pro-visions in it. But the Gentry
and the Country, particularly T. BuUcly Esq''., looking upon him
as a man of a rotten heart did -withstand his progress and procured
an order from the King to build a Fort on the top of a neighbour
ing hiU on North East side of the Castle above the Harbour undeft

296 TOURS IN WALES
pretence of guarding harbour from Pirates, but in reality to awe
Cheadle the suspicious Governor. But the Earl of Dorset,
surrendering the Constableship to s-i. T. Bulkly, A.D. 1643, said
Fort was dismantled.
A.D. 1643 certain persons of County of Lancaster were sent
prisoners of War to &^. Castle, viz., George Dodding, Ralph
Ardeme Bsq'^, Francis Fitzhugh, Geo : Towleson and Rob*.
Bradshaw Gent., who from thence were removed to Chester.
And in the same year there came Orders from Prince Rupert
for Lord Bulkly to remove the Trunks, plate and goods of Rob'.
Earl of Leicester (then design'd Lord Lieuten*. of Ireland) from
the Fryars to the Castle of Beaumaris, about which trunks and
goods there happen'd a great suit at law.
In the time of the Ci-vil Wars a report of seizing the Castle of
Beaumaris then garrison'd for y"^ ParUam*. was spread far and
wide over the Country, and did sting the Ears of Dr. John
WiUiams, Archbishop of York, then at his house of Penrhyn,
Carnarvonshire, who was pleased to use his pen as followeth.
To his much honoured Friends and Cousins Col : Rich''.
Bulkely, Lieut'. Col : Robinson, Major Lloyd, and Captain
Jones at Beaumaris Castle. These present.
My very -worthy Cousins
By a Letter and some Papers sent unto me from the Gentlemen
at Berw the last night, I perceive that you have possessed yourselfes of
the Castle of Beaumares, as without the approbation of the Gentlemen
and chiefe Comanders of the Countie soe (which I was very glad to find)
-without any such opposition to the King and Parliament, but may be
easily reconciled, if you doe not delay it too long. This is a greate and
powerfuU Bodie and will not bee capitulated too much -svithall especially
by a few Gentlemen who have surprized a Castle in a time of Treatie, att
the best, but as they mainlie affirme when all Conditions were agreed upon
and they had reived and confided on the Lord Bulkely's and the Com
missioners their assurance I beseech you therefore for your owne good and
the good of the Countrey to give Generall Mitton some speedio content
ment as I understand you have written unto him allready a very ci-vill
letter. And that may bee with taking some part of his Men presently
into the Castle, my Cozen Bulkely holding still his Command as Constable
untill your propositions bee debated. For to keepe all the Men out as
mere Strangers doth putt a. slurre on the Major Generall and through his
sides upon that great body of the Estate whose minister he is. And for
those in the Towne, they may mingle with the Towne guard and have
no cause to complayne, they are looked upon like Enemies. Or some
other fayer* respects (which my Cosen Robinson understands better than I)
* I.e. fair, which derives, through the Mediaeval forms fayer, feier,
feiyer, etc., from the A. -Sax. foeger. — Ed.

APPENDIX — II 297
may bee putt upon them, and those Articles of suffering them to passe
away, if they bee recaUed elsewhere sett aside. And God forbid they
should have any cause to demand such Articles. It may be these are
of the best Servants the King hath, if his Majestye bee with the Scotts,
and is satisfyed for the Covenant. I am sure they speake as weU and
pray as zealously for the King as my Lord Byron's people did. And may
bee never thrive that doth otherwise. The King is gracious and takes
noe delight that his Servants should be ruined and beggared to noe purpose,
but to compile -with the humour of some few, and those none of the wisest
Commanders. I am your neare Kinsman, acquainted -with all your Fathers
and Grandfathers, and can have noe other end upon you beside your owne
preservation from daunger and ruyne. And I beseech you soe to interprett
this Letter of Your affectionate Friend and Kinsman
Jo : Eborac.
Penrhyn
this 8' of June, 1646.
A certayn Schoolmaster observing the Carriage and perusing
some letters of the Archbishop of York in that year said that his
Grace did Pencrwn-esco. Pencrwn was Welsh for a roundhead,
by which name the ParUamentarians of that time were denomi
nated, and that new cojm.ed Verb, by the Grammar Rule Incep-
tivum in Sco signifies that his Grace was beginning to turn Round
head. For his Grace in the foregoing letter which is extant under
his own hand joins King and Parliam* together, making them
co-ordinate Estates, which was the doctrine of the Rebellious
Presbyterians of those days. But hear the Answer of the Gentle
men of the Castle.
May it please your Grace
Col : Bulkeley hath possessed himself of this Castle upon no other
grounds than the just Interest your Lordship weU knows. He, together
-with his Father, hath it, by Patent from the King, it being then upon
surrendry "without either his privity or the Country's general consent,
so that it cannot bear the name of surprisal, but the maintenance of his
insubordination to his Majesty's right. And whereas it is mainly affirm'd
that this was done after agreement made, wee'le assure your Lordship, we
have earnestly desired to see the conditions for the security of the Inhabi
tants of the Island, but could see none, not so much as for the Officers
and Soldiers of the Garrison, who being without Articles disbanded were
StiU Uable to imprisonment or to be disposed of as the ParUament pleased,
who though never so powerful a Body may and ought to be so far capi
tulated wdth as to know upon what grounds to stand. Our Agreement
-vrith the Commis!3ioners for cessation from hostUitie (though admitting no
party into the Castle nor mingling of Town Guards) cannot but give General
Mytton satisfaction enough for the present. When things shall be fairly
and openly debated and concluded upon by the universal Consent we shaU
then be -wUUng to receive hostages for their performance on both sides,
and that we conceive to be the more soldier-like way. And as for the
Article for their free departure if recaU'd, it was of their own suggestion.

298 TOURS IN WALES
nor say we, God forbid, they should have cause to demand such. We
are glad your Lordship is now of opinion that these will prove his Majestie's
best Servants, who the world knows is in person -wdth the Scotts, though
his being satisfy'd with the Covenant we dare not so much as imagine
an //. To judge of theirs and the Lord Byron's people's prayers, we leave
to him to whom all prayers ought to be directed, but join with you in
the Imprecation, May he never thrive who doth otherwise. The King
we know, and the Parliament we hope is gracious, not desiring the ruin
of a whole Country, out of compliance with the humour of some (whose
names we question not), whose experiences cannot call them Commanders.
We shall therefore by all means possible study to prevent it, and with
the thankful acknowledgment of your care and advice remain
Your Grace's most humble Serv*^.
R''. Bulkley.
J"". Robinson.
David Lloyd.
Henry .Jones.
June 8, 1646.
About this time Doctor Bridgman, Bishop of Chester, who had
been a Sojourner long at Mr. Rich'^ Vaughan's house, Beaumaris,
was taken prisoner in his passage to Bangor by Captain Rich of the
Ship Rebecca for presuming to pass over into Carnarvonshire,
being ParUament Quarters. And as his person was seized on by
Rich, so his Goods were seized by Col. Bulkely, but the Bishop
after petitioning the Colonel to let his Baggage be conveyed to
Penrhyn to the Archbishop of York's care. The Colonel
insinuates in his Answer that the Archbishop says, he " besides
I hear for certain, to whose care you intended to commit them,
is now ingaged in a more serious employment." This serious
imployment was that the Archbishop was then undertaking to
join with the Parliament force in besieging the Garrison of Con
way (which at that time stood out for the King) to his everlasting
Infamy. Mytton's Troops to reduce the Island of Anglesey landed at
Cadnant, upon which this Englyn was made
Mil chwe chant gwarant ac wyth a deugain
Digwydd Mon yn ddiffrwyth
Pan ddoeth bawl Diawl ai dylwyth
i Gadnant aflwyddiant Iwyth.*
Cadnant is a modern Name ; in antient MSS. it is caU'd
Aberllifiog. In this affray between the Islanders under Col : Bulkley and the
*In sixteen hundred forty eight
Fair Mona bore a heavy weight
'Twas then the vile infernal band
At Cadnant creek usurp'd the land.

APPENDIX — II 299
ParUament Forces S"^. Arthur Blaney on the side of the King had
his Elbow shatter'd to pieces, on the Roundhead party one
Vavasor Powel, a military preacher, wounded, and on the CavaUer
side one Mr. Price, Vicar of Bettws Abergeley, mortally wounded.
At the same tune Captain Lloyd of Penhwnllys, being commanded
to guard the Church, he lock'd his men in it, and ran himself
away most cowardly, taking the Key in his pocket, wherefore he
was called Capt" Church to his dying day.
Of the Enemy were kill'd about 40, of the Islanders 30, but near
400 taken prisoners. Col : Bulkley surrender'd to prevent
Effiision of blood. So Holyhead and Beaumaris were garrison'd
for the Parliament, Mytton being Governor.
Mytton's Deputies were : P*., Major Edw^. Moore, a man of
singular ci-vility towards all persons, who govern'd during 1649,
1650, 51. His next Deputy was one Hugh Courtney, put in by
Cromwell and Harrison, a Lay preacher, a Conventicler, and utter
Enemy to the Clergy. In his time there were seldom prayers or
preachmg in the Church, but the Garrison Soldiers were call'd
together by beat of Drum at the Town cross, and their Exercise
was sometimes in the To-wTi hall, sometimes in the Court of Guard
in the Castle, and sometimes at the Deputy's House. The
Preachers or Holders forth of the Garrison in these fanatick times
were one Moris, a poor Labourer, one Gregory, a bUndish fellow,
one Benjamin, a blacksmith, one Fowler, a Jesuit as afterwards
found out, one Roberts, a pretended scholar, two Brothers
named Edwards, one a Minister at Llanfair Dyiirin Cl-wyd,
Denbighshire, the other homo incerti laris. And Courtney himself
did often use to hold forth, especially at his o-wn house ; but they
gain'd very few proselytes either from to-wn or Country.
In the time of Hugh Courtney's sway happen'd at Beaumaris
a thing worthy of especial remark. In the year 1653, in the
month of August, when the great Sessions for the County of
Anglesey was held at Beaumaris, Benjamin, the blacksmith
aforesaid, preached in the pulpit at Beaumaris Church before the
Judges of the Circuit, WilUam Littleton and Edw"*. Bulstrode.
It was a strange sight to behold two Judges in their scarlet Robes,
the High Sheriff of the County, the Officers and BaiUffs attending
them, 2 trumpets sounding before them, the Gentry of the
Country, the La-wyers and Attorneys foUowing, just as Agrippa and
Bernice went into the place of hearing f^ierd ttoXXt;? cpafTaala^
with great pomp. Acts 25, 23. And aU this to hear a nonsensical
Blacksmith, who presumed to teach and counseU the Judges out
of that scripture. Psalm 2. 10, 11— Be wise now therefore, 0 ye

300 TOURS IN WALES
Kings, be instructed 0 ye Judges of the Earth. Serve the
Lord with fear, and rejoice with trembling. The blasphemy of
his prayers, the nonsense of his discourse, the ridiculousness of
his delivery were abominable, especially in God's holy temple
and before such a grave Auditory. That a blacksmith should
make an Anvil of a Doctor of Di-vinity's pulpit (Doctor Rowland
Cheadle being then Incumbent of Beaumaris) ; that Reverend
Judges, learned lawyers, and worthy Gentry would afford their
presence and ears to such a pitiful fellow ; that Judges and
Lawyers would come to see the Law of God and Man abused
before their Eyes.
Courtney not long after was advanced to some higher employ
ment in or near London, and Capt°. W"V Wray succeeded him at
Beaumaris, a Man of better temper and far more civil to Gentry
and Clergy. Yet in his time Conventicles were kept up still, the s''.
Gregory and some others being the holders forth in the Garrison.
But Major General Mytton dying, Col. John Jones was made
chief Governor of Beaumaris, a Man of fanatick, bitter and
Devilish principles, who had been guilty of the great offence
of sitting upon the Ufe of King Charles 1^*., and who looked on
all as Reprobates who were not Fanaticks and frequenters of
Conventicles, which will plainly appear by this following letter,
-written with his ovra. hand to Capt°- Wray, his Lieutenant.
For Captain Wray, Lieutenant
in the Garrison of Beaumaris These hast.
Captain Wray
I had not time by last post to write unto you as touching the two Men
you mention to be continued in prison for stealing the leads of the Castle.
I have advised with the Advocate General, and he tells me they carmot
be tryed by martial law without being sent up hither with witnesses, so
that the way to proceed ag*. them is to put them out of the list, and then
cause them to be indicted and proceeded against at the Sessions, and
likewise those that bought the lead of them. But if you conceive them
to be penitent, and that there is any hope of their reducement to a ci-vil
life you may let them return to their Duty and continue in the list upon
their good behaviour, and forbear further proceedmg against them. This
I leave to your discretion. I intend to allow Edward Gregorie for his
Encouragement to continue in the garrison £40 p''. Ann : to be paid him
quarterly, and the first fifty shUlings to be paid him now in May, which
I intreat you to pay him. I understand likewise that there are some
few people in your town that meet often together to seek the Lord and
improve each other in the knowledge, fear, and worship of God. I would
have you to pay them 50" to be by them at their meeting distributted
as they shall judge fit, either for the relief of their poor or otherwise as
shall be most oonducible to the advancement of that good practice. I

APPENDIX — II 301
would have you like-wise pay to the hand of Cornet Jeffrey Parry, who
dweUs near PwUheli, in Carnarvonshire, £5, which is to be distributed
by him and those that walk in the fellowship of the Gospel in that County,
in such a way as may be most for the encouragement of such as carry
on the work of the Gospel there, whether it be by relieving their poor
or otherwise. And £20 more I would have you to pay unto such persons
as shall come for it and appointed to receive it by a Note under Mr. Morgan
Lloyd's hand, which is intended for the like use in other places where
there is need. There will be as I take it £12 remaining in your hand,
beside the two Mens pay, which I leave with you till things be better settled,
or an opportunity given me to come to visit the garrison. I have no more
at present to trouble. Your assured Friend Jo. Jones.
28 April 1657.
I presume this -written from London.
Edward Gregorie above mention'd was a poor purblind fellow
that could neither -write nor read, yet was the preacher or holder
forth of the Garrison. Cornet Jeffrey Parry was a great Heaven-
driver in Llyn, and a zealous maintainer of Conventicles. So
was Morgan Lloyd at Wrexham. But you may see by the pre
cedent Letter how beautifully John Jones encouraged those Sons
of Satan and Agents of Antichrist.
About 1658 John Jones, -with Corbett and Ludlow, were
appointed Commissioners in Ireland ; but in the Revolution,
when Monk began to march from Scotland, the s<^. Commissioners
were outed of y^ Government of Ireland, and John Jones also out
of his command in Beaumaris, Sir John Carter of Kimmel
in the Co : of Denbigh, Kn*, succeeding.
Carter enjoyed his command but about half a year, from Feby
1659 to Sepi^ 1660, when Robert Lord Bulkely obtained from
King Charles 2<i now reigning to be Constable of the said Castle,
and Captain of the Town, -with a Garrison of 60 Men or more for
some time mauitain'd at the King's Charge.
4. Sea and Port.
The Fretum between Beaumaris and the Continent was not
so broad in former times as it is now, for there is a general tradi
tion that one HeUg ap Clynog had large possessions and a fair
house between Penmaen ma-wr and Penmaen bychan, which
now the Sea has overflo-wn.
Si qufuras Helicon et Burin Achaidas urbes
Invenies sub aquis.*
* Ovid, Metam., XV, 293.— Ed.

302 TOURS IN WALES
And this Story gains the more credit because there are ruins of
old Walls to be seen in that place to this very day at Equinoctial
tides. And because wrought and carved free Stones and Iron
barrs of Windows and other Irons belonging to buildings have
been found there. And the Compiler of this history hath been
told by antient people of Ty Mawr (now the Mansion house of
Robert Coytmor Esq', not far distant) that they had seen Iron
bars of Windows and other Irons come from thence. Moreover,
there is a place call'd Y Wjifa upon the Sea side, not far from
Dwygyfylchan Church, which signifies the place of weeping.
For when the Sea by God's secret Judgm*. had leave to transgress
its antient bounds, and to faU upon HeUg ap Clynog's house, the
Houshold made hast towards the HiUs, and upon a Hillock in
sight of the place, seeing House &c. overwhelm'd by the Sea,
they could not chuse but lift up their Voices and weep ; whence
the place is call'd Yr Wylfa to this day. Besides, there are
ReUcks of Wears in the middle of the Sands between Beaumaris
Ferry and the main Land of Carnarvon, the proprietors not known,
but it is tradition'd that about a hundred years ago much Green
sward and Wood hath been over ag*. Gorddinog, where there is
nothing but sea and sand at this day. To which we may add that
there was a Causeway (still visible at Equinoctial tides and
very obnoxious to Sea Men) pointing from Ynis Siriol or Priest-
holm, in the Isle of Anglesey, towards Penmaen ma-wr and S*.
Siriol' s Chapel, whose ruins remain on the side of that hiU, at this
day unpassable.
Upon the Fretum of Menai there are several Ferries from
Carnarvonshire to Anglesey (viz.) Velaven, Porthaethwy, Moely-
don, Talyvoel, and Abermenai.
These Ferries formerly belong'd to the Cro-WTn, for I find that
King Henry 8^^. made a grant of them all to Rich'^. Gifford,
one of the Sewers of his Chamber, and the said Gilford lett the
same to WilUam son of Rowland Bulkely Esq''. 8° day December
Hen. 8*h. A° 33°.
But the Ferry of Beaumaris or Velaven* was since granted
to y" To-wm of Beaumaris by Charter A° 4*°. Reg : EUz., and the
other Ferries were Uke-wise pass'd into other hands. Velaven
is a Sand at low Water, reaching from Penmaen ma-wr to the
Ferry of Beaumaris, about 3 or 4 miles.
N.B. — This was formerly the direct road to Ireland.

* Alias Wylofaen, the place of weeping, for many disasters happi
this Sand.

len on

APPENDIX  II 303
Englyn by Dafydd Nanmor calculated for Traethmawr between
Merionethshire and Carnarvonshire may serve for this allowing
an hour — Yn nydd y lloer newydd ar naw ar gloch
Y gwlyoh y Uanw eithaw
Y Lion ddydd y Uanw a ddaw
ir nod He bu'r newidiaw.
At nine o'clock of Luna's change
'Tis full Sea on the Shore,
And on the day of Luna's full
'Tis full Sea the same hour.
5. Borough and Corporation with the Government thereof.
The To-wTi of Beaumaris was incorporated by Ed. P*., and that
by Charter dated at Ber-wick on Tweed on the 10**". Sep''. 24*^.
of his reign, whereby he granted, 1^*., that the To-wnn of Beaumaris
should be a free borough, and that the men of the same town
should be Free burghers. 2^., that the Constable of the Castle
should be Mayor of the Town, i'^.. That 2 Bailiffs should be
chosen at Michaelmas yearly. 4, That they shall have a free
prison in the Castle, and shall have cognizance of all Trespasses
except the Case of Ufe and member. 5, That all Lands assigned
to the Borough shall be diswarrened and disafforested ; and that
no Jews shall dwell there. 6, That they shall have a guild of
Merchandize -with haunce and other Customs and liberties to
such a Guild appertaining. 7, That no Sheriff shall enter there
for any plea or plaint. 8, That the Villeine of any person shall
dweU and hold land in the Borough, paying scott and lott for
a year and a day -without claim or challenge, and from thence
forth shaU be coerced and call'd again by his Lord, but remain
free in said To-wn ; and that he shall have Sock and Sack and
Theane and Infangthiefe. 9, That the Burgesses of s<*. Town
shaU be quit of ToU, Lastage, Passage, Murage, Pontage, Stallage,
Danegeld, and Gaywitt, and all other Customs and Exactions
through the King's Dominions. 10, That the s,^. Burgesses and
their goods shall not be arrested within the King's lands and
power, for which they be not sureties or principal Debtors.
11, That if any of s"i. Burgesses die testate or intestate, their goods
shaU not be confiscated to the King, but their heirs shaU have the
same. 12, That the Burgesses shall not be con-dcted by any
foreigners for any matter but by EngUsh Burgesses, except it
be for matters touching the commonalty of the said Borough,
and then they are to be led by the Customs of y^ City of Hereford.
This Charter was ratified and confirm'd by Edw^. 2^. at Wal-

304 TOURS IN WALES
tham Cross, .June 26, 15 of his Reign ; Rich*!. 2^- at Westminster,
June 30, 12 do. ; Henry 5, Prince of Wales at Harlech, Sep'.
8*^. A°. 4°. Hen. : 4*". ; Henry 6*^. at Westmmster, Dec'. 5, 4"'.
year of his reign ; Edw. 4, do., Sep'. 28, 8*''. do. ; Rich*!. 3, do.,
March 7*"., 1^*. do. ; Hen. 7, do., Dec'. 30, 8*". do. ; Hen. 8,
do., March 1^*., l'^*. do. ; Edw. 6, do., Nov'. 20, 1^*. do. But
this Charter was renewed and enlarg'd with ample privUeges by
Queen EUz : 22'^- July, 4**1. of her reign.
N.B. — In perambulating the bounds of the Borough they used
to stop at Llaniestin, read prayers and smg a Psalm there.
Llaniestin was heretofore a Rectory belonging to the Priory of
S*. Francis at Llanvaes, and was in the gift of the Prior ; and I
find two Parsons or Rectors thereof ("viz.) Griffith ap lolyn, A°,
9°. Ed : 4, and Sir Tho=. Grono, Chaplain to S'. Rowland ViUeviUe
Temp. Hen. 8*^.
The To-wTi and Suburbs are divided into 4 Wards (viz.) Castle
Street Ward, Church Street Ward, Watergate Ward, and Wrex
ham Street Ward — a Constable to each Ward. In Wrexham
Street Ward there is a Street call'd Rating Row (or as corruptly
call'd Rotten Row), so call'd because in old times when the Castle
was garrison'd the provisions coming from the Country were
rated there for the use of y"^ Garrison.
The Shire HaU built by the Country A.D. 1614.
The Court Ma-wr in Church Street was the first Mansion house
of Inheritance of the family of Bulkley in this Country — ^the Old
Plas being more modern.
BaronhiU built by S'. R^. BuUiley A.D. 1618. The pUe now
standing, as tradition goes, was meant for a Gate house to the
main house intended to have been built for the entertainment of
Prince Henry on his way to Ireland, design'd by his Father for the
Lieutenancy of that Kingdom.
The Ash Trees in Park and file about the house were planted by
the hands of Marg*. Savage, Wife of S'. Rich-i. BuUiley the 2^,
in memory of the Battle of Mussleborough in Scotland, Temp.
Ed. 6, in which s'^. Sir R'*. Bulkely was an eminent commander,
the Trees being sett in the same order and Array as the EngUsh
Army was dra-wn up on that day.
On the South side of Red hill Park, Kerrig gwyddU Wood, of
which it is said that if a chip of it be cast into the Sea or any water
it will sink as growing on Stone, and partaking of the sinking
Nature of the Stone.
King's Wood, Coed Cadw, is the largest Wood in the Island of
Anglesey.

APPENDIX — II 305
The house of Dancoed caU'd Kighley house from the family
of Kighley, of whom Sir Gilbert Kighley, Sir J"". Kighley, and
Sir Alan — ^all Uved Temp. Hen : 6.
Llanvaes or Llan S*. Katherine. Here stood the Friary of
S*. Francis, built on this occasion. Joan, Daughter of King John
of England, ha-ving married LlewheUn ap lorwerth, and she
dying A.D. 1237, was buried here as her pleasure was, and Llew
heUn did build a house of bare foot Friars over her grave. At the
dissolution, being granted to some Courtiers of Hen : 8*''., it was
sold to the FamUy of White.
Upon the Farm of Cremlan-Manach there stand great Stones
on which is carved the Effigy of S*. Francis, which the poor
Franciscans used to worship. The head of S*. Francis was carved
on a Free Stone in the corner of the Stone WaU as you come from
Llangoed Lane towards the Town, and when the Friars Uved
there, if any passengers fail'd to uncover their head to S*. Francis's
they would exact a forfeit from them. The Friary Chapel now
turned into a Tithe barn, in which have been digged up several
Stone Coffins, of the same form -with that of LlewheUn ap
lorwerth's taken up at the Abbey of Nant Conway, now remain
ing in the Chapel of Llanrwst. These Cofiins are now converted
into S-wine-troughs in several houses of Anglesey.
The Borough was first govern'd by a Constable, Alderman, and
two Bailiffs, but since the renewal of the Charter in EUzabeth's
reign there is only a Mayor and two BaiUffs. The first Mayor
on the new Charter was R'^. Bulkly Esq'., after Sir Rich'i. It had
a Recorder, a Town Clerk, a Coroner, two Serjeants at Mace.
Two Church Wardens, one to be chosen by the 24 Burgesses,
the other by the Minister of the To-wn, accotmtable only to the
Town Court, and not to the Consistory Court of Bangor for their
yearly Accounts, a privilege they claim by prescription. Two
Sidesmen, two common Appraisers, two Searchers and sealers of
Leather, two Scavengers, two Burleigh Men or Overseers of the
Hedges, Ditches, and inclosures about the To-wm. One Water
BaiUff, a BaiUff for each of the 4 Wards, and one BaiUff for the
Liberties. One Beadle. The first Recorder after renewmg
the Charter was Tho^ Bulkley of Lincoln's Inn Esq'., Brother
of S'. W. Bulkeley. 2<^., WiUiam Jones Esq'., afterwi^. Su:
W'°. Jones Kn*., Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench. 3*.,
Cha». Jones Esq'., his son. 4*"., J"". Griffith of Llyn Esq'.
4'"., Richard Owen Theodor of Penmynidd. 5, Owen Wynne
of Glascoed in Camarvonshire. 6, Owen Hughes, an Attorney

306 TOURS IN WALES
of the great Sessions, not fit to carry the shoes of his Predecessors,
who were learned Counsellors at law.
The first Member of ParUament after renewing the Charter 27
Eliz. A.D. 1585 was W". Bulkley Esq'., LincoUi's Inn.
In the short Parliament call'd the Cuckow ParUament, from its
sitting at the time of y" Cuckow's Song, Charles Jones Esq'.,
Barrister at Law.
In the long ParUament, John Griffith Esq'., Llyn, but, he dying,
in his stead was chosen WilUam Jones Esq'., a La-wyer of Shrop
shire. In Cromwell's Convention, call'd Barebones ParUament, Hugh
Courtney, Dep : Governor of Beaumaris.
In the Convention turn'd out of doors without doing anythmg.
Col. Geo. Twisleton.
In the house of Nantanog was born Da-vid Hughes, founder of
the Free School and Hospital in and near Beaumaris. His
Father's name was Hugh ap GwiUm ap Hugh ap Conws of TraffwU
Esq'. In the Rectory and Parish of Trefdraeth Beuno, Einion ap
Gwalchmai (Advocate to Owen G-wynedd) ap MeiUr ap Madoc
Maban had an antient house, Tref eiUr.
David Rowland of the house of Penheskin and Trefos trans
lated LazariUo de Tormes from Spanish into EngUsh.
On LlewheUn of Llandegvan, a man of ill name in his time, was
made this Engljm —
Llewhelih wynebin ebol, cael Iddew,
Celwydde anianol ;
Bustl yn d'oes anfoesol,
Ath blant a ddal dant ar d'ol.
The said Llewhelin's Grand-daughter married Owen Hughes
of Beaumaris.

APPENDIX  III 307
IIL
CARNARVONSHIRE.
Extracts from Williams's MS."*
(1814.)
Creuddyn.
In this district, in very early times, the Kings of Wales held
their Court. Here Maelgwn Gwynedd lived at a place called to
this day Llys Maelgwn, and kno-wn also by the name of Bryn
Euryn, the Golden Hill. He reigned from 517 till about 546,
and as nominal King from that time to 560. Died of the Yellow
Plague, y Fad Felen, and by what Dafydd ap Gwilym says, it
seems to have originated in this part —
" Yr oer fad felen o Ros " —
meaning the portion called Eglwys yn Rh5s ; and it is said
that Maelg-wn died of it while in the Church of Rhos, having
retired there as to a sanctuary even from disease and death.
The Adage, at that time most probably first adopted, throws some
Ught on this, and may serve to confirm the conjecture that he
was buried here, and not in Priestholm Island, as some say —
Seiriol not ha-ving begun his Establishment till 70 years or upwards
after Maelgwn's Death — " Hir hun Faelg-wn yn Egl-wys Rhos,"
The long repose of Maelgwn in y" Church of Rhos.
It is supposed that Maelg-wn Gwjmedd resided occasionally
at Deganwy, but it was a royal residence before his time. It
was destroyed by Ughtning A.D. 816 ; rebuilt in 876 ; streng
thened by the Earl of Chester in 1098, the maritime parts
of Wales from Chester to Conway having been long in possession
of the Saxons and Normans ; destroyed by Llewelyn ap lor
werth in 1209 ; rebuilt by the Eari of Chester. In 1210 John
"mth his Army came hither but he was obliged to a sudden retreat.
Henry the 3"^ possessed, but he was also obliged to quit it pre
cipitately. In 1245 he came again thus far, and a littie repaired
it, but the Welsh came upon him and obUged him to return to
England. In 1263 Llewelyn ap Griffith took it and destroyed
it, and it was never rebuilt. * MS. 2.52.
X2

308 tours in wales
The Church of Rhos may be supposed to have been erected for
the ser-vice of the royal Residence, or the Palace was so placed to
have the use of the Church, as it bears no Saint's name.
The celebrated Taliessin was his Bardd Teulu, or Poet Laureate,
which certainly Gildas points at when he says, " But warnings
truly are not wanting to thee, since thou hast for thy Instructor
the most eloquent Master of all Britain."
Gildas is very severe upon him ; nor does he escape the curses
of even his o-wn Bard, who probably reprehends him for deserting
his intention of leading a reUgious Ufe —
Na bo rhad na gwedd ar Faelgwn Gwynedd
Drwg na ddialer ar Run ei Etifedd
Boed fyrr fo ei fuohedd boed diffaith fo ei diroedd
Boed hir ddifroedd ar Faelgwn Gwynedd.
Let neither blessing nor graceiul mien
Be possessed by Maelgwn Gwynedd
If venge-ince falls not on Run his heir ;
Let his life be short, let his lands become desolate,
Let long punishment befall Maelg-wn Gwynedd.
He erected the see of Bangor about the year 550, as is supposed,
that he might take upon him the profession of reUgion, and to
become a Monk there.
He was Son of CaswaUon law hir. Son of Einion Yrdd, the hon
ourable. In his reign the Irish Picts made frequent descents on
the coasts of Wales, especially Anglesey. Einion sent his Son
to repel them with a great force. They, hearing of this, fortified
themselves at a strong place called to this day Dindryfal, i.e., the
triangular fort, in the Parish of Aberffraw, being a rock resembling
a Sugar Loaf, on the top of which are seen the remains of their
works, as is imagined. CaswaUon probably encamped on an
opposite height, called Cefn Trefeilir ; and in the intervening
Valley the two armies met, and a bloody battle ensued, in which
the Irish Rovers were defeated, and Sirigi their leader slani by
the hands of CaswaUon himself, on a spot in the North end of
the Vale, which, from the event, as is supposed, was and is still
called Cerrig y G-wyddel, i.e., the Irishman's Rocks ; and the field
of battle still bears the name of Cae bod Cadferth, the field
of the bloody battle. Some say that Sirigi retreated to Holyhead
to his Vessels, intending to embark ; was pursued aud slain at
Holyhead. However, it is most probable that he was buried
there in a place still called Capel y Gwyddel. CaswaUon from
this time fixed his residence in Anglesey, at least as may be

APPENDIX — ni 309
supposed during his father's Ufe, at a place in the Parish of Llan
EiUan where the remains of his palace are shewn, and called
Llys CaswaUon.
In his time Uved the Saint EUan Gannaid, who built an Oratory
m Creuddyn, and another in Anglesey near the reputed residence
of CaswaUon. Some difference taking place between th,e Prince
and Saint, the former was excommunicated and punished with
loss of sight tiU, by penance and prayers of the Saint, he was
restored. A Poet of the 14th Century alludes to this : —
EiUan -wnaeth i rai wylo
O lid am ei fuwch a'i lo ;
Pe -wnaeth yn ddall Gaswallon
Arglwydd mawr ar Ogledd Mon.
Thus Englished —
For's Cow and Calf St. Elian frown'd,
Which caused much weeping fall around ;
Struck -with bUndness and -with grief
The great CaswaUon, Mona's chief.
CaswaUon's grant to St. EUan of Lands to endow his new
reUgious EstabUshment is stiU in being and the Umits of the lands
so granted are yet known by the same names.
Copy of the Gba-nt.
Good Christian people, hearkeneth unto me. Kyswallon law hir ap
Eigian Yrth, praying blessed Hillary to have sight to mee and unto my
men of my Household, they us then prayest especially and devoutly.
When I and my household Men lost of sight, I was Lord upon the wrong
to you ; when I took the Oxen and the MUch Cows, then I was on the
-wrong to myself ; therefore I wUl give for each Oxen ten Oxen : then said
Hillary, Yf I had mine o-wn goods, I would desire no man's goods. This
said KyswaUon, yee shall have whatsoever you wUl, and name it ; then
said Hillarie, thereupon lift up your hand, I wUl name it. And so he
did. KyswaUon lift up his hand to uphold his promise. Then HUlary
made answer saying, I beseech my Lord God, for his infinite goodness,
to restore unto you your sight ; and forthwith as blessed HUlary had
finished his Prayer Kyswallon had his sight as perfectly as ever he had
before, and all his Household men. And then Hillary asked his gift, not
«lse, but as much lands and ground as his Hart wynneth in running from
aU your Greyhounds, and let them slippe from this same footinge. That
is to say, Dulas lus Hill, from thence unto the Mountain of Yngen, from
thence to Gorsedd 'VeigUl, and through the Nannes Yle* to the hUl of
Trysklwyn and through Bodnefey, thence to the Hart's leape, called in
Welsh Llam y Carw, and thence he swame the Sea to his Lord HUlary
* Words in italics are underlined. For a better copy of the grant, see
The Cambrian Journal, 1863, pp. 320-2.— Ed.

310 TOURS IN WALES
to Porth Yohen to Land ; and thus Kyswallon gave the Land, men, wood,
and waters, and fields within those meares, and boundes, above named,
to Hillary in whatsoever freedom, Ubertie, or franchise he would. And
then HUlary assign'd Kadowr and Frydall to devyse and chose thek
franchise because the land was theirs. And Cadowr and Frydall chose
to pay a penny to the chief Lord by way of Atturnment or seysinto
keep the liberties and tranches, and when whosoever of this blood shall
happen to dye, the heir shall go to the court of the chief Lord and there
pay a, penny in the same seysin and atturnment to suffer him to be a
freeman to God and to Hyllary without bondage or thraldom upon him,
and free to him to sell his land to whomsoever him list or wUl. And
he that buyeth the land to pay xij'^ of fine in two parts, uj'' to the chief
Lord and iij"! to Hyllary, and a peimy by way of seisin or atturnment to
the Lord's Court., she-iving him to be a Freeman to God and to Hyllary ;
and he shaU not sweare -within x Miles, but in his own comot, and in his
Lord's Court, and not to sweare there but for debt, and if he be cast iij''
of amercement to the Lord, and if he be not cast to have xV of the x''
for amends, and free to him to buy and sell all manner of goods -without
impeachment ; and the land and sa.nctuarie both to people and Cattels
from the Lord's Officers, and Hillary shall keep them from evil spirits.
And KyswaUon taketh upon him or them that breaks this franches and
grant, or that disturbeth, troubleth, or oft'endeth any part thereof, or
meddleth contrarie to the said grant upon HUlary'a lands or his Men or
any other taking the Sanctuarie a Pine of £40 as oftentimes as he or they
so do offend against the aforesaid ¦ liberties ; and if a man of HUlarie's
be hurt or maymed the same and nviituh'i, that is to say, the third part
to Hillary and to the Lord, and two parts to him that is so hurt or majrmed ;
and whatsoever death take any of Hillary's Men ; that the Lord have
nothing to do with his Goods, Wife, nor no man, but only his Kinsfolk
have thereto authority ; and if he be outlawed, that there be not upon
him xii"i of fine to be divided in two parts vi'i to the chief Lord, and -vi*
to Hyllary, because he is HUlary's Man. And his liberty and franches
that I Kyswallon lawhir do give to God and to HUlary and my blessing
withal, and my curse to him that breaketh. And also I sett Kald-wr and
his Issue oif it to reer the Lord's part, because the Land is not free to my
men, and he himself not amerced ; and if a Man of HUlary be slaine, there
is not to him that slays him but to be hanged ; but if both parties be
accorded ; and then Hillary gave his Curse to Gentells that ryde upon
his Land with his foote in the Styrope ; and to them that slew a party
upon his land. And then Kyswallon asked of Hyllary whether he would
grant his men to come with him to the East, and he granted yf Cald-wT
would, so that no compelling be upon them farther than the mears of
their lands, but if they will of themselves, for why he is an evil man that
wUl not go in his Lord's need. God yield that said Kyswallon, and shaU
have horse and armour for him that will, and armour for footmen that
¦will have them at my cost, and reward for his labour as much as the most.
Then said Eigian the Lord's Brother, the liberty and franches of Hyllary 's
IVIen is better than your men's ; that is no marvel said the Lord, I give
in my need and not in his E'-a.
From a MS. Extent of Anglesey in the possession of the late
Owen Jones aUas Myfr, Furrier, London, 1805.

APPENDIX — III 311
St. EUan buUt his church in Anglesey about the year 450.
He is called the British HUary. As he had a church dedicated to
him ui Creuddyn Uke-wise, he may be supposed to have been the
regular spiritual attendant of Einion Yrdd and CaswaUon lawhir's
Courts. The Church dedicated to him ui Creuddyn has near it a sainted
weU, famed for curing many diseases and frustrating power of
speUs. There was a Woman (now dead) who attended the WeU,
and who pretended to defeat the influence of Witchcraft.
In the Woods of Gloddaith many Walks and Labyrinths in
y^ old taste.
Qu. whether the name of Duganwy may not have some reference
to the Cangi who were caUed by the Britons Gocangiaid.
Between Bodavon and Rhpv a grit stone about a yard long
inscribed. Ednyfed Fychan had his chief residence at Penrhyn in this
district. Pugh of Coytmore descended in a direct Une from him,
and possessed Penrhyn as his Heir at law. This family had in
their possession a Grant from Prince Llewelyn ap lorwerth
of lands in Creuddyn to Ednjrfed Vychan -with the Prince's
Seal in green wax to it.
Conway is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner,
Water Bailiff, and 2 Serjeants at Mace, annually chosen.
General Mytton took Conway for the Pari*., Nov'. W^, 1646.
Several Irish were tied back to back, flung into the sea and
dro-wned, the General bearing' towards them an implacable
hatred. In CromweU's time the Ferryboat at Conway sunk -with about
80 in it, who all perished except one young woman, who Uved
to the age of 116, and is buried at Llanfairvechan.
The curious encampment surrounded by picked stones,
tradition says, was prior to Caerhun, and therefore the country
people caU it Caer hen.
TaUessin to Merddyn ap Morfran, A.D. 540, enquiring about
the fate of the Britons, fomid at Gwydir some years ago : —
Hanbych well Morfryu
Sydd ai fod gyssefin (qu. o'i)
Yngoror Gorllewin
Tan Faelgwn Frenin
Pa wynfyd neu draha
A ddaw i Lin Troua ?

312 TOURS IN WALES

Atteb Mbefyn, yn y tlwyddyn 541 : —
Pan dorrer y deri
Yn agos ir Yri
Al nofiad yn efrydd
0 Gynwy i fro Gwerydd (jm. if f6r)
A throi'r Cerrig yn fara
Yn agos ir Wyddfa
* Lavan Ar Cefn gwyn"* yn drwyth
Sands. A llwyth o' gamwedda
Dwfr Aber Crafnant f Two streams in
Yn gorug a chomant \ this neighbourhood.
Tafodau gwenhieithas
Yn Lladron twyUodrus
Y byd mawr ar ddyfo
Y ddiweddu y trallodd
Ti wyddost bob gorsaf
Dy hunan -wyt hynaf
A thithau yn feddyarydd
O Waen Ll3rn Geronydd
Gan Ystlys coedy blawd
Taliessin fy mrawd
Cwsg yn dy Gaban
Nes del Coronog faban
I gyfi-annu hedd
Ac i wneud yn rhyfedd.
Merfyn Wyllt ap Morfran.

The same EngUshed : —
All haU, Myrddin, whose primary abode is in the western high region under
King Maelg-wn,
Pray, say what happiness or disaster shall befall the Trojan race 1

Myeddin's Answer, in 541 : —
When the Oaks are faUen in the neighbourhood of Eryri, and wUl gently
float do-oTi the Conway to the Irish Main,
And the Stones are turned into bread near Snowdon Mountain, and Cefn
gwyn soaked in water, and Men loaded with iniquity.
The flood of Crafnant to join that of Cornant,
And Sycophants are apparently deceitful thieves.
To end the disaster, a troublesome world is immediately to follow.
Thou knowest my brother, Taliessin, the situation of every fortified station,
being thyself the elder ; and thou being also the Possessor of Llyn
Geirionydd, along the side of Blawd wood.
Rest in thy Cabin
TUl the coming of a crowned child
To share peace and do wonderfully.

APPENDIX — III 313
The foUo-wing words of TaUessin point at the quarrelsome
disposition of the South WaUans : —
Arth o Ddeheubarth
Yn Cyf arth Gwynedd ;
i.e.,
A South Wales Bear
Barking at N. Wales.
At Llanrwst, £300 worth of Stocldngs sold in the Morning
before y« Market begins, by the Knitters themselves.
Penmaenmawr.
A Mr. Jones, Rector of LlaneiUan, in Anglesey, a South WaUan,
in 1739 said in the hearing of old WUUams of Llandegai, when he
had this U-ving given him, he was obUged to borrow a horse for
the journey, as he had none of his o-wn, to take possession of it ;
and riding over Penmaen, the Horse lost his steps and fell with
him over the Precipice. The Horse was dashed to pieces, but
he pro-videntiaUy escaped -with Uttle hurt. He had a horrid
custom of swearing in relating this story ; swore a great Oath,
that he was obUged to pay for the horse, though he had hazarded
his o-WTi neck.
At or near the end of Penmaenbach, in j'^ parish of Daugy-
fylchau, began that tract of ground inundated by a great flood
from the Mountains, about the beginning of the 6*'' Century.
Its edge was near to a Une from the end of Penmaenbach, but
something bending onward on Llanvaes Friary, and ended at
about 2 thirds of the Sands over, making there an angle, and from
thence it ran a Une bending archUke westward, to the Mouth of
the Ogwen River, an extent of upwards of 7000 Statute Acres.
At the utmost angular point some stones are discoverable in
the Sands, which, according to tradition, was the residence of
the Lord of the district, named HeUg foel ap Glanog, and is still
caUed Llys HeUg ap Glanog. This HeUg, and his father before
him, were reputed to be the Lords and owners not only of this
extensive tract but also of the whole Comot of Arllechwedd. It
seems he and his family escaped -with their Uves, and ever
after embraced reUgious lives. His Sons' names were Gwynnin,
Celynin, Rhychwyn, Aelgyfarch, Brothen, Boda, G^wyar, Euryn
y Coed HeUg, Bodvan, Bedwas, Brenda and Peris — which last
was said to have been a Cardinal. The district was called
Hendre Bodfan and Cefn gwyn.

314 TOURS IN wales
To this Catastrophe Merfyn ap Morvran alludes in his answer
to TaUessin, where he says in his prophetic way — ¦
Pan fo Cefn g-wyn, etc.
Merddin Uved at this time and must have been eye--witness
of this event, though he mentions it as a thing which was to
come. Lavan must be a name given to this place after this
dreadful event. The explanation which the neighbouring people
to this day give it is that when the Inhabitants found themselves
and their effects lost, they made a doleful cry for assistance to
rescue them, and that after the desolated waste was named Traeth
y Llefan, the Sands of the lamentable cry, of which Lavan is
a corruption. Coohwillan, Uke Penrhyn, was granted by Llewelyn ap
lorwerth to a Chieftain called larddur, and made him forester
of Snowdon. Griffith Hiraethog says to this larddur there were
two Sons (viz.) Madoc and lorwerth. Madoc was got before
marriage. He requested from his legitimate Brother a portion
of the Estate, but was refused. And there was a Knight's
Ser-vice on the Estate. It fell out that the Prince took the field.
Madoc attended him, but lorwerth did not. Therefore he for
feited his property, and the land was given to Madoc ; but he
gave half of it back of his Brother and part of the Arms (viz.) the
head of the Stag ; and Madoc bore the whole Stag and his de-
cendants ; but those who trace to larddur at this day bear Gules,
a Chevron between 3 Stags' heads, Caboched Argent.
Robin of Cochwillan had by his 2nd Wife a Son Thomas
beheaded at Conway, 1466, by order of the Earl of Pembroke,
for adhering to Edmund, Earl of Richmond ; and his Wife carried
his head home in her Apron.
Penrhyn.
First a royal residence, was, as is recorded, inhabited by Rodri
Mol-wynog, who began his reign about 720. It was razed to
the ground in 987 by Meredydd ap Owen, Prince of S. Wales,
which makes it probable that it continued a royal residence tiU
it was granted to larddur.
In Sir WilUam Griffith's time the Estate was said to be £15,000 ;
but a great part was sold to portion 17 chUdren he had by two
Venters. Sir Rees Griffith repaired it in 1575.
Under the old plaister in some of the Rooms there were seen
paintings in fresco.

appendix — III 315
Pierce Griffith, when England was threatened by the Armada,
fitted out a ship at his own expense, and sailed from Beaumaris
20*'' April 1588, and arrived at Plymouth 4*'' May foUowing.
Followed Sir Francis Drake. Great complaints were preferred
against him by the Spanish Ambassador in James's time.
He was charged with having continued his piracies after
peace had been proclaimed, and was so harassed by prosecutions
on that accoimt that he was obliged to sell his Estates to
procure his pardon — which were purchased by the Lord Keeper
WiUiams. In the Mouths of the common people of the neighbourhood
to this day is frequently this artless stanza : —
Ll-wm ac oer y gwela' i'r Penrhyn,
Glan y Mor ac Abercegin,
Er pan aeth y Capten Grufiydd
Dros y Mor i speUio gwledydd.
Pierce Griffith died in London, and is buried in Westminster
Abbey. Hirlas.
This Horn — Com Bual — artificially bent Uke a bow hooped,
and the edges tipped with silver, and a silver chain fastened to
both ends, and a large silver ring towards the middle for hanging
it up, holds about half a pint of Uquor. It received its present
setting in the time, perhaps, of Sir Rees Griffith, in 1567, as his
Initials and his Lady's are on the silver hoop. It was found in
a heap of rubbish close to the WaU of the house.
The Hirlas of Owen CyfeiUog was a long strait blue Horn,
and not bent like this. They were Ukewise blown in the Chase ;
and possibly they might have acted the part of the Corn Cyweithas
in the day of battle, or for a March that of Corn Cychwyn ; and
the tradition is that Piers Gruffydd used to sound this very horn
from the top of the HaU tower for summoning his retainers and
volunteers when he had occasion for them.

Ogwen.
At the Mouth of this River is a dwelling house caUed Capel
Ogwen, and it appears to have been such, lying exactly East and
West. The East Window over the Altar, which has been but
lately demoUshed (this written 1805), is of stonework. It is

316 TOURS IN WALES
called by the neighbouring people Capel St. Tray. The Tradition
is that it was built to receive the bodies of those who had procured
the privilege of interment in Llanvaes, Penmon, or Priesthohn,
and here their Gwylnos or Vigil was kept. The Corpse was the
next morning ferried over. The ferry always did, and now does,
belong to Penrhyn, for which a rent of ten shilUngs is paid by
the Charon of the place. Cromlech.
At the entrance of the fish Wier in the sands belonging to
Penrhyn there was formerly a large Cromlech, the Sea having,
by its great encroachment mentioned above, washed away the
ground on which it stood ; the incumbent stone fell on its sup
porters, which were 3 in number, and these were Umestone, and
were to be seen (1805), and must have been brought from far,
there being no Limestone near.
Perhaps a fishery existed there in the earUest times, as the
profit of a Wier was a princely revenue, and that this Altar may
have some reference to it ; being there erected as an altar to offer
up thanlcs for success, or to pray for it, and even not above 50
years that the custom of offering up prayers at the beginning
of the fishery season ceased. The Parish priest used to attend
there and pray in his SurpUce, and the capture of that tide was
his reward, and probably the Chapel before mentioned was
connected with some reUgious observance of this season, as weU
as a depository for the Corpses on their way to Mona.
The Custom of praying for the success of the fishery in the
herring season is still used in the Isle of, Man (as formerly at
Fishguard and here), and the late pious Bishop Wilson composed
forms of prayers for the occasion. Aber.
Church dedicated to Bodfan one of HeUg's Sons. Its wake
2"'! January. It is called Aber gwyn Gregyn, the Stream of
the white shells, on account of its falUng into the SheUy sands.
It rises in a small lake in a hill about 3 Miles above the ViUage,
and falling over a precipice forms the Cascade which TraveUers
from this place visit. Aber garth gelyn its old name. Garth
means a mountainous range. Diameter of Aber Mount 20 yards.
Up these Hills women go morn and even to milk their cows,
and descend -with safety -with their pails.

APPENDIX — III 317
Prince David, the last Claimant of the British Throne, was
found concealed by the Scouters of Edward at the foot of Bron
Mountain in boggy ground -with his -wife and family, half starved
with cold and hunger, betrayed and deserted, and thence carried
to the EngUsh Camp at Rhuddlan, and was executed at Shrews
bury.
Vaenol.
Sir W". WilUams, in the reign of W"". the 3"^, left his great
estate, no less than 30,000 acres, demised after the Death of Sir
Bourchier and Chichester Wray to King WilUam. When this
was told the Kmg, he asked who this fool was, for, says he.
Had he no relations or friends to leave it to ? One Smith, then
Speaker of the House of Commons, being present, said. It matters
not who has it, for it is nothing but barren rocks ; whereupon
the King repUed, Then I give it thee. Smith. This is the tradi
tion, but certainly a descendant of that Smith enjoys it in right
of that grant to this day.

Llandegai.
Church dedicated to Dygai, Son of Ithel Hael, who, with
several others, came over from Armorica with Cadfan. Dygai
was Brother to Llechid, and he had 8 Brothers, who all came
over together — Baglan, whose Church is Llanfaglan, Carnarvon
shire, Twrog, who had Llandwrog ; Trillo, whose Chapel is in
Creuddyn ; Hjnvyn was Chaplain to Cadfan at Bardsey, and is
patron Saint of Aberdaron ; Gredfiw, at Llanllyfni ; Fflewin, in
Mona, at Llanflewm ; Caron, at Tregaron, Cardiganshire ; and
Tanwg, in Meirion.
Dygai first fixed himseU at Cors Dygai, but finding himseU
too near Cristiolus, removed hither. The foundation of a build
ing shewn at Corsdygai in ruins is said to have been his first
chapel. Church supposed to have been built about the time of Ed. 3"i.
or Rich<i. 2"^., temp, of one G-wyUm ap Griffith, there Uving, at
his o-wm expense. Of the Effigies in Alabaster there probably
Rhys Goch of Eryri speaks, who died at an advanced age between
1400 and 1420, for it is supposed to have been brought at the
Dissolution from Llanvaes. Of the warrior the Bard says :¦ —
Great was the lamentation when he was laid in the Chancel under Marble
m God's Court at Llanvaes in Mona. Fair is the Court of God in Mona,

318 TOURS IN WALES
Llanvaes, celebrated for the benefit it confers on the land, where morality
and good manners are at their full growth. Rejoiced to see (the 'Valiant
will easUy credit me) WUliam with y= sharp spear. Before the sons (they
will feel remorse) of the dragon of the shiaing rook, of the scaly skin, a
cross couple, the Emblem of grace gave a grave to the aged Lion of the
hosts of Gwynedd. Fair was the Canvass which he to the -wind displayed ;
to remote regions did he ever direct his course. He was the Hector of
the Action of the Land of Egypt.
The same Poet has a Poem to the same person, whom he styles
WilUam Fychan, which was the usual epithet, Uke junior, for
a Son in the lifetime of his father.
25*'' March 1650, Archbishop WiUiams died at Gloddaeth,
whither he had fled from the fury of the rebels. It may be sup
posed some favour was she-wn him by Cromwell, as it does not
appear that he was molested in this retreat. Oliver, when a
subaltern in the army, was often one of the Archbishop's guests,
who frequently used to express himself in treasonable language
against the King and government, and the Archbishop advised
the King to arrest him, saying he was a soaring spirit and might
prove troublesome to the State ; but Charles smiled at his sim
plicity.
Llyn y Cwn.
The highest lake in Wales. Its waters fall into Cwm Idwal.
Idwal's residence and grave are shewn on the banks of the Lake.
The tradition of Idwal, Owen Gwynedd's Son not likely — ^more
Ukely from Idwal, Cadwaladr's Son.
The triplets of Beddau Milwyr record three graves hereabouts,
of Bedwyr on the Tryfan, Ebediw on the Glydar. Over Cwm
Idwal hang the two Glydars. Glydar fawr is supposed by some
to be higher than Snowdon.

Cwm BooHL-wryD.
Between Glydar bach and Tryfan. Its name means the hoary
cheek. The names of Mountains are often borrowed from parts
of the human body they are supposed at a distance, seen with the
eye of fancy, to resemble ; such as Clun, Esgair, Pen, Trwyn,
Ysgwydd ; and the hiUs in England, though the names are now
corrupted, betray their origin. What is Skiddaw but Ysgwdd
dew ; Peak — Pig, etc.

appendix  iii 319
Tryfan.
From 3 stones standing erect on its top, two yet existing,
the other faUen ; caUed so 1,200 years ago by TaUessin.
Nant Ffrangcon.
It had this name in TaUessin's time, as he mentions it in one of
his poems, where he says —
Gwelais ymladd taer yn Nantifrancon
Ddiw sul pryd pylgaint
Rhwng Wythaint a Gwdion ;
i.e.
I saw an urgent contest in Nantffrancon
On Sunday at early da-wn
Between Wythaint and Gwdion.
Gwdion was the son of Don, and perhaps this contest happened
at Gwdion's father's house, which might have been here, as he
was reported to be Lord of Arllechwedd, and TaUessin was only of a
few Miles to the East of this place.
Capel Curig.
A Chapel of ease. Curig the Saint was Son of Lleudden
Llueddog o Ddinas Eiddin (Edinburgh). His mother's name
JuUtia. The whole district here called Bro Gurig. A tradition
is that a Gentlewoman residing in this neighbourhood was
troubled -with a Cancer, but was advised to wash the part with the
water of a spring on the farm of GelU'r Mynach, and that she was
cured, and in gratitude to God she built this Chapel. And
probably this Lady was no other than JuUtia, who, with her Son,
were the first founders of this Chapel, and had discovered this
Spring, she herself ha-dng been perhaps the first patient ; and it is
probable that GelU'r Mynach was their first residence. The
Spring was for ages much resorted to, but some years ago the
tenant of that farm, suffering trespasses from the paths of those
who frequented the Water, sunk it, and fiUed it up, but was soon
after attacked by this disorder, but searching for the Spring, he
could not find it. The Country people say it was a judgment,
and that many of his posterity have been subject to Cancers.
In GelU'r Manach were the remains of some monastic EstabUsh
ment, and a dormitory with some old carvings, but now removed,
to make way for a new farm house.
I was told there is a Water not far from the Inn that, rubbed
on common Warts, would cause them to waste away. R.F.

320 tours in wales
About two miles from Capel Curig, on the Roadside to Nanh-
-wynen, a Carnedd on which was set upright a slatish stone thus
inscribed —
Vncii o m
quo
Ti nmf
It is called Llech y Gwyr, the Warriors' Monument.
Rail Road
from Slate Quarries in Cwm Ogwen to the Waterside is on a fall
of upwards of 500 feet, which is the highest Quarry above high
water mark. It is about 6 Miles in length ; reduces the expense
of conveying slates to one-fourth, and the Slates are brought do-wn
more perfect. Cantref Arpon.
Has 2 Comots — Isgorfai and Uwchgorfai. Isgorfai contains
7 parishes, viz., Bangor, Llanddeiniolen, Llanvairisgaer, Llanbeb
Uc, Llanrug, Llanberis, and Bettws Garmon.
Bangor.
Divided from Llandegai by the river Cegin, not Cegid, as Mr.
Pennant calls it, which is a Hemlock, also the Jay ; but it has its
name from the Spring which rises from among a ruinous place
called Cegin Arthur, Arthur's Kitchen.
Cathedral.
DemoUshed by Owen Glyndwr, remained ruinous till Hemy
Dean, Bishop in 1496, rebuilt it. Tho=. Skeffington, then
Bishop, in 1532 built the Steeple.
Griffith ap Cynan lies buried on the S. side of Altar. Died
3"i. year of Stephen, A.D. 1137, at 82, having reigned 50 years.
His Son Owen Gwynedd lies in the gable end wall of the S.
Wing, his monument still to be seen entire with a Cross on the lid
of his Stone Coffin. Died 1169.
Enderbie says that the name of the place now called Bangor
was Acaon, which is a corruption of Y Cae On, the Ash In
closure. There is a heap of Stones within the Road from Bangor to MeUn
Esgob called Bedd y Witch. It is not many years ago that the

appendix — III 321
Custom ceased of every person passing to throw a Stone to the
heap. Tradition says that a Woman practising witchcraft was
burnt here. Llanddeniolen Parish.
Most of the Parish belongs to Vaenol. There is one old man
sion in it called Glascoed, formerly W5mne's, but now Mr. Rice
Thomas's, by the marriage of Gaynor Wynne, the Heiress, to Rice
Thomas of Carnarvon. Church dedicated to Deiniolen, a Saintess
most probably from the termination in en. Wake 22"'^. Nov.
Llanbeblic.
Dedicated to PebUc or PebUcus, Son to Maximus, Emperor
of Rome ; others, his Grandson, who retired -with his Mother Helen
here. Wake 4***. July.
Carnarvon.
A Vessel of 4 or 500 Tons may load at the Quay under the Castle.
Quere, Why are the turrets of Carnarvon Castle surmounted
with Eagles, the highest with one of extraordinary size ? And
why do they not appear to ornament his other Castles ? Was it
in aUusion to the words in MerUn's prophecy, which the Eagle
spoke at Caer Septon, perhaps a corruption of Caer Segon,
Carnarvon ?
The Princes of Wales made their residence here from Rodri
Molwynog till Rodri Mawr's time, when it was removed to
Aberffraw. N.B. — Sir David Trevor, Rector of LlanaUgo in Mona, 1480,
wrote Cywydd y Gorchestwyr, the Heroes' Poem — ¦
Pie mae Edward? &c.
Above the Gateway of the Castle is a Stone Statue of Edward
First in his Robes,-with his hand on his sword, pointing do-wmwards,
signifjing that as long as his new subjects would remain peace
able the Sword would not be raised against them ; but at the
same time they were to remember that it was in his hand ready to
use if provoked by their disaffection.
Plas Pilstwn.
Was the Mansion of Roger de Puleston, a favourite of Edward's,
who was hanged for his oppression by the populace, 1292.

322 tours in wales
Ancient Revenues issuing out of Anglesey, Carnarvon, and
Merioneth. Carnarvon  1134 14 6
Anglesey  .. 832 14 6
Merioneth  748 11 3

2716 0 3

In 1785, after the fair, as the Anglesey people were crossing
the Channel, the Boats sank, and between 50 and 60 persons
perished, only one saved.
Llanrug.
Church dedd to St. Michael. Wake 29*". Sept. Perhaps it
took its name from the heath -with which it abounds, or the Rye.
Castle of Dolbadarn.
10 yards Diameter. Owen Goch confined there. Owen Glyndwr
fortified it. Copper Mine, discovered about 50 or 60 years, and
worked -with various successes, above the upper lake. Valuable
slate quarries of various Colours ; carried to Carnarvon and
Moelydon, chiefly now to the latter.
C-wmbr-wynog.
High on this farm on the ascent to Snowdon is the Maendu
yr Arddu, or the Black Stone of the blackham. It is a loose
tumbler, with a lesser lying on it, and laid there by hands. These
Stones have had the character of possessing an inherent -virtue
to inspire those that sleep on their summit a whole night with a
poetical spirit. Tradition says that two tried the Experiment on
a Summer's Night. One was named Huwc3m Sion y Canu, and
the other Huw BeUsa. On awakening, the first found himself
inspired by the Muse, the other bereft of his senses.
Bettws Garmon.
Nant Sir Robert WilUams formerly called Ystrad Uchaf.
Uwoh Gorfai.
This Comot has 6 Parishes — Llanfaglan, Llan-wnda, Llandwrog,
Llanllyfni, Clynog, and Llanaelhaiarn.

appendix — iii 323
Llanfaglan.
Church ded. to Baglan, who is said to have Uved here, that
is, at Coed Alun. Near the Church a sainted weU, and by it a
stone where the impression of the knees of the Saint is she-wn.
Such memorials are often pointed out, such as the print of
Beuno's feet at Trefdraeth in Mona ; Kybi's in a rock near
Holyhead ; Deiniolen's foot on a stone near Llanddeiniolen
Church ; Print of Elaeth's Horse shoes under LUg-wy in Mona ; of
St. Asaph's Horse near his Cathedral, &c. Mostly natural cavities
in the Stones, though probably improved by the Chisels of y^
Monks. There is here an old Adage — Ffordd Llanfaglan ydd air i'r
Nef, The way to Heaven is by Llanfaglan Road.
Llanwnda.
Church ded. to Beuno, yet it bears the name of Gwyndaf.
Wake 21=*. April. In this parish at a place called Gwaredog was
bom Maenwyn, afterwards called St. Patrick.
Llandwrog.
Church ded. to T-wrog, who is supposed to have -written that
ecclesiastical history, a Copy of which was found in the Church of
Clynog, after it had been burnt, and preserved from the flames
by being covered -with a black stone. Dr. Thomas WilUams
saw it in 1594, but it is now lost. The Wake kept 26*''. June.
In this Parish is Glyn LUfon, the Glen of the Ash Stream. All
the Glynns descended from Cilmih Droed ddu, one of the 15
Tribes, l^t. Argent an Eagle displayed with 2 heads Sable. 2"'^.
Argent 3 fiery ragged sticks gules. 3"^. as the 2'"i. 4*'^. as the
1=*. Over all an Escutcheon Argent a Man's leg couped a la
Cuise sable. This Estate continued in the same family tiU
Frances, heiress of J". Glynn Esq', married Sir Thomas Wynn of
Bodfuan in Lleyn, descended from John Wynn of Bodvel,
Standard Bearer to Ed. 6*". in Norwich, 1549. Tradition says
that, for curiosity, Cilmyn Droed ddu entered a Cave near Aber-
gelau in Denbighshire, and lost his way underground, but came to
Ught again, but found that his left leg and thigh had altered their
natural colour to black, and continued so, which was the reason
of his Name and part of his Arms on the Escutcheon.
There is a large piUar standing a Uttle to the South of GlynUy-
y2

324 tours in wales
f on on a field belonging to Plas newydd, which I take to be over
the grave of the person mentioned in the foUo-wing triplet—
Bedd Gwyn-wyn GorgofEri
Rh-wng Llifon a Llyfni,
Gwr oedd ef y gwir y neb ni rodd.
The Grave of Gorgoffri's son G-wyn-wyn
Between the Rivers Llifon and Llyfni,
Stories are told all doubtful of his fame.
Dinas Dinlle.
Perhaps a fort of the To-wn now covered -with Sea below it,
which Tradition says was called Tregaeramrhawd.* It has been
asserted that at very low ebb some of its ruins have been seen ;
and tradition says that many females, particularly at low water,
used to ride on horses on Sundays and hoUdays over to Lland-
d-wynwen, in Anglesea, on the opposite shore.
MoRFA Dinlle,
The Triplets, Beddau Milwyr, mention the grave of Gwdion,
the Son of Don, here —
Bedd Gwdion ap Don ym Morfa Dinlle
Dan vain dy feUlion
Gwaranawg y geiffyl meinon ;
i.e.
Gwydion ap Don lieth beneath a hut
Of sweet trefoU in Dinlle Marsh,
And that is good to make poor slender horses fat.
Llanllyfni.
Church ded. to St. Rhedjrw, Son of Ithel Hael. A sainted WeU,
with a Stone and print of his horse's foot, and his o-wn thumb.
Clynog.
Or Celynog, the place being productive of HoUy, perhaps.
The spot on which the Church stands was given by G-wyddiant,
a relation and Courtier of King Cadfan, to Beuno. On South
side of the Church a separate and more ancient building, caUed
Eglwys y bedd, where it is supposed Beuno was buried, and lately
there was on the middle of the floor Stones piled as on a grave, and
covered with a board on top, under which it was said the Body of
the Saint lay. But some few years ago, at the request of Lord
* The literary Caer Arianrhod. — Ed.

APPENDIX  III 325
Newborough, the spot was dug into, but not so much as a bone or
anything sepulchral was found, but I was told they sunk not above
a yard. The offerings at Beuno's shrine of old were very great, and
there are people now Uving who are yet superstitious enough to
drop a piece of money annually in the Strong Chest at Clynog on
the 21=* of April, Beuno's patron day, for the prosperity of their
Cattle and prevention of certain diseases.
Llanaelhaiarn.
The Patron of the Church was Haiarn, and Ael means the brow of
the HiU on which the Church stands. Bounding this Parish are
the Effi, the Name being plural of Gafl, which means the opening
of the thighs or the fork, there being 3 Peaks, and the hollows
between are the Eifls, or the openings. This Hill as it were poises
Penmaenmawr, that being at the Western end, and this at the
eastern end, of the Beam, and Snowdon as it were the handle in
the middle. Effi about the same height as Penmaenma-wr, and
both -with their bases in the Sea.
ElFIONYDD.
Has 9 Parishes— -Llanarmon, Llangybi, Llanystumdwy, Cric-
ciaith, Dolbenmaen, Ynys Cynhaiam, Treflus, Llanvihangel y
Pennant, Penmorfa, and part of Beddgelert.
Llangybi.
Ded. to Cybi. Here is a famous Spring waUed in, of greater
use in Rheumatisms. Doctor Linden gave an account of its
properties in a pamphlet pubUshed some years ago.
Llanystumdwy.
Takes its name from the junction of 2 streams which unite
here. The foundation of y* Church is ascribed to Beuno. In this
Churchyard is interred that truly honest Man Owen Gmffydd
the Poet, who died 1730, aged 87. He was by trade a Weaver.
Many of his moral and divine Songs are stiU in being, replete
with a spirit of true Christian piety.
Of the CUmate in this Churchyard, which lies in a most sheltered
Vale, you have the foUowing distich —
Tecoa Man o Gaer i Gymry
Ydyw mynwent Llanystumdwy.

326 TOURS IN WALES

Cricciaeth.
Probably from Crug, a hillock, on which the Castle is perched.
Probably first built when Harlech was by Maelgwn Gwynedd,
but, no doubt, bears marks of Edward's total reedification.
It was granted to Sir Hywel y FwyaU, where he occasionaUy
resided. Prince Dafydd ap LleweUn imprisoned his Brother
Griffith here. He was hence moved to the Tower of London,
where he broke his neck by endeavouring his escape. Crucciaeth
is situated on part of that space where it is said Cantre'r Gwaelod
Vale once stood, the name meaning, literally, the Bottom
Hundred, which comprehended 16 To-wns (that is Vills), as we
are informed by tradition and some hints in the Triads. The
Lord of the Place at the time was named Seithennyn, who was
reputed to be a drunken Debauchee, and that in a fit of drunken
ness he let in the sea upon the dams which secured this Vale
from being inundated. But he was not Lord of the district, but
only had the charge of the Sluices. It is said the Immdation
happened about A.D. 550 or 60.
We have, including this, three watery tracts on the Coast of
Carnarvonshire which are said to have been dry land ; the two
first, taken notice of before, are the Lavan Sands and Caer
Anrhawd — the Carnarvon Barrs.
Besides the evident marks, and the voice of tradition, by which
we may judge of the reaUty of this, we may naturaUy suppose the
possibiUty of it, because at Ebbs these two parts are now dry,
and so must still be higher than the adjoining sea ; and how much
higher and more soUd must these tracts have been 1,300 years ago.
If the Surveys of our Coasts and Bays are accurate, as there is
no doubt they are, it appears by the Charts that the rocky ridge
pointing westward from Harlech, and beginning not far So.
West from this to-wn, ran for more than 20 Miles into the
Sea in that direction ; and another ridge of about four Miles in
length from Llangelynnin point in a direction to meet the other,
so as to form an Angle at their Extremities ; if these two ever
met, as one may naturally imagine they did, then it is possible that
the spaces contained within their Umits have been at some period
of time dry land embanked out by these ridges of which we have
the remains. The first Cop is caUed Sarn Badric, and the other
Sarn y Bwch, and the spaces limited by their ridges is mostly
soft or foul ground, containing about 200,000 Acres of Statute
Measure, not much less in extent than the Island of Anglesey.

APPENDIX  III 327
At a place caUed Ceilwart, near Barmouth, some time ago there
was a stone found, about a 100 yards below high water mark, with
the following inscription on it —
C ^LEXTI
MONEDO RIGI
There stood about 80 years ago a fish Wier upon the entrance
into the Menai North of Bangor, at the place called Garth. Some
of the remainmg stumps of the stakes are still -visible in the Sands.
It was called Goredgit, and the place where it stood is still called
so. It may be supposed that this Wier was at first made by the
Romans, as it retained the original Roman Appellation, and it is
a proof that the word Gored has its root in that Latin or Roman
word. Bedd Gelert.
Ded. to St. Kelart. The Priory was endowed -with the tithes
of the several parishes of Llanfair is Gaer, Abereirch, Dol-wyd-
delen, Llaiffihangel y Pennant, Ceidio in Lleyn, and Llanidan in
Mona.
Snowdon.
Ha-ving the inflexibiUty of a Quaker, -will never take off its
cap to any potentate on Earth, unless well favoured by Sol's
SmUes.
Llyn Gwynnen.
On the South side of the Lake ruins of a Chapel. Was used to be
be served once a Month by the Minister of Bedd Gelert. Kept
in repair by the proprietor of Hafod Ivryfog, and probably built
at first by some pious possessor of this place. Di-vine Service
continued to be performed in it untU -within a Century ago, when
a great flood happened and prevented the Parson from attending ;
but some people being assembled, the young Heir of Hafod
Iwyfog mounted the pulpit and made a mock Sermon. And this
was the last Service performed there. Yet 'tis said the young
Libertine lost his health from that time.
Dafydd Nanmor.
The Bard was buried in this Chapel, and not at Beddgelert.

328 tours in wales
Rhys goch of Eryri
was buried at Bedd Gelert. His compositions shew him to have
possessed great command of language ; no words wantmg, none
to spare.
They were both Cotemporaries, as was Robin Ddu, the Welsh
Nixon, who was, by all account, a native of Llanddeiniolen, but
Uved after at a place called Caeau Cregin between Moel y Don and
Brjrntirion. There was at the place not long ago a deserted
building caUed Ysgubor Robin Ddu, and near it growing an old
Elder Tree, and this is the tree that he is said to allude to in the
following Couplet — Lie bu mhen ar obenydd
Ysgawen fonwen a fydd ;
i.e.
Where my head rested on a pUlow,
A white-stem'd Elder tree will grow.
DiNAS Emrys.
At first called Dinas Faraon. So called in the Triads.
Ogo Filan.
In the parish of Bedd Gelert. The true word is Ogo Filjn,
or the Cave where Beasts took shelter in stormy weather. Milod
is beasts, and Milyn a small beast, such as a sheep or Goat.
Lleyn.
Has 3 Comots, viz., Dinllaen, Canologion, and Cymmylimaen.
Dinllaen has 9. parishes, viz., Abereirch, Llannor, Bodferin,
Ceidio, Nefyn, PistyU, Camguwch, Edern, Llanjestm -with
Llandudwen. Canologion has 7 Parishes, viz., Melltiem, Llanfihangel
Bachellaeth, Penrhos, Llanbedrog, Bott-wnog, Llangian, and
Deneio. Cymmytmaen has 10 parishes, and part of another, -viz.,
Llanengan and Tresoch, Llandegwnning, Rhiw, Aberdaron,
Llanfaelrhys, Melltiern (part), Bryncroes, Bodfean, Llangwnadl,
Tydweiliog, and Penllech. Bardsey.
Called by Ptolemy Edri, by PUny Adros, by us EnlU, I suppose
from Ynys and LU. It must have been a place of note so early as

APPENDIX — ^III 329
Pliny's time, who died A.D. 79, as he notices it. The Druids
might then have occupied it, as tradition faintly alludes to it.
It is about 2 Miles round, contains from 12 to 15 Houses, in
habited by about 60 people or more. It is said to belong to
Pembrokeshire. There is to the West of it a reef of Sand, dry at low Ebbs, which
at fuU tide causes a hea-vy Sea, which makes a dreadful noise,
and is very dangerous. It is caUed Gorffrydau Caswennan,
the Torrents of Caswennan, which tradition says took its name
from a ship of Arthur's of that name lost there.
The inhabitants Uve chiefly by catching Lobsters and Crabs,
which they have in great abundance, and carry to Liverpol in
their open boats, though they have 40 leagues of Sea to sail over.
There are scattered ruins, very triffing, and part of the tower
of the Abbey. Human bones dug up in many places, but chiefly
about the Mountam. The Mountam at the East very steep on
the Sea side.
It retains stiU a government over part of the neighbouring
Continent, under the AppeUation of the Lordship of Bardsey,
whose Land they say is the Prince of Wales'. The Court is regu
larly held at Aberdaron, and the Earl of Uxbridge or his Deputy
presides — Qu. Within about haK a Mile of the ViUage of Aber
daron there is an ancient House called the Court, where at present
resides Mr. G. Jones, Vicar of Aberdaron, and in this house they
say formerly the Courts were held, and a prison is to be seen
there at this day. Near it is a smaU hill called Bryn y Crogbren,
the HiU of the Gallows. There are also the remains of an old
Chapel; and not far off a house caUed the Exchequer. The
Island is about 3 Miles distant from the land ; the passage between
extremely rough and often dangerous ; its average depth about 60
Fathoms. Near that is the remarkable yellow rock or piUar
caUed Maen Melyn in Llejm. There is also a Cave, and a spring
of Water within it, a spring of water consecrated to the Virgin ;
and not far off the ruins of a Church, caUed Egl-wys Fair, 12 yards
in length and 5 in Breadth. It stands in the middle of a square
inclosure called the Churchyard. The plain in which it is situated
is di-vided into a vast number of Quillets, which belong to as
many different proprietors.
Most of the places about have some sacred Name. On some of
the Stones are ffiscriptions, as NERACIVS PRS . . . HIC IACIT ;
that is, Neracius presbyter hic jacit. On another Stone,
Senacus Pres. hic j acit. There are more ruins of Chapels and sacred
WeUs in the neighbourhood. At a place ealled Capel Odo

330 TOURS IN WALES
heaps of human bones have been discovered lying huddled
confusedly, and it is supposed a battle had been fought there.
It is said that 20,000 Saints have been interred at Bardsey.
However, it is well kno-wn that Princes, Bishops, and Abbots were
ambitious of burial there, and we have the names of many
great men handed do-wn who have been interred there.
Mor ap Pasgen ap Urien Reged, about the year 600. Myrddin
ap Morfran aUas Myrddin Wyllt, about 560. Meugant ap
Gwyndaf ap Emyr Llydaw, about 550. Maelerw or Maelrhys,
Cadfan's cousin-german, about 520. Cadfan himself, about the
same time. Llynab ap Emyr Llydaw, a Bishop, same time.
Lleuddad ap Dingad ap Nudd Hael, with his brother Baglan,
G-wtherin, Tegwyn, Tyfriog, and their sister Eleri retired to this
place about 520, and are supposed to have died here. Hevin
ap Gwyndaf Hen of Armorica, Principal of this College about
600, and buried here. Gwyndaf Hen. Llewelyn ap Tegonwy
ap Teon. Dirdan. Dochdwy. Deinioel, founder of Bangor
CoUege in 554. Hywyn. Dyfrig alias Dubricius died here about
450, a proof that here was a reUgious estabUshment before Cad
fan's time.
What was the support of the Convent is not well known. No
record but of the tithes of Aberdaron, Penmachno, and Llang-
-wynodl. Arms of Bardsey, Argent 3 Che-vrons sable and Argent alter
nately between 3 Drakes, backs sable, breasts and belUes Argent.
The Island belongs to Lord Newborough, purchased by his
grandfather Sir J"" Wynne of a Doctor Wilson, of Newark,
in Nottinghamshire. It is occupied at present by 3 or 4 famiUes,
farmers, the principal of which resides in a miserable old house,
but the largest having been formerly the Abbot's lodging.
St. Tudwalls.
Inward of Penrhyndu point are two Islands, on the largest of
which formerly stood a Chapel, dedicated to St. Tudwal. Re
mains of Chapel still to be seen. Some years ago repaired and
covered in, in which to lodge the people who came to -visit the
sheep fed there, and to take Rabbits and Puffins. Both Islands
are held -with the farm of CasteU March. The largest is 30
Statute Acres ; the other 20. Belong to Aston Smith, Esq'.
In 1805. A person says he heard an old man, who then had
he been U-ving would have been 104 years old, mention, that

APPENDIX — III 331
when he was a boy, to have seen a cdtlple of small potatoes
brought to his Father's house in the Parish of Llanbedrog, and
that the person who brought them told the people present that
they were eatable. Some of them bit them, and found them
nauseous ; so they were thrown away. This was the first root
of that kind seen in Lleyn.
Some years ago a person who Uved in the lower end of the Vale
went to a Farmhouse above Llyn Gwynen to borrow a large
brass pan for dyemg wool, and carrying it on his back -with his
head m it, came to the edge of the Lake, and being rather tired
with the weight, laid it on the Water, and finding it floated,
went mto it, and rowed with this hands, which carried him to
about the middle of the Lake, when, bending his body too much
on one side, the pan overset and sunk, but the man being a good
swimmer, got safe to land. Ancient Customs.
Most ancient is burning of Bonfires on All Saints' Eve ; but
it is now gro-wn to be only the amusement of Children. There
used to be another Bonfire on May Eve ; this as a publick sign for
thanks to God for the blessing on the newly sown seed, as that
on AU Saints' for the fruit of the ground just received. This
Bonfire is by some caUed Coelcerth, but more generally Coel-
caeth, or Coelcaith. There are Stones, at parting, thro-wn mto
the fire by every one, running round it, and through the smoke
and the sparks. They run home when the fire is out with the
greatest precipitancy possible, lest they should be overtaken
by the Hwch ddu g-wtta, the Ijlack bob-taUed sow. The -writer
says that many times when a boy, he thought that something
pursued him close at his heels.
On coming home there is a treat of Nuts, Apples, and Pears ;
but before they taste, an Apple is hung to a strmg, or rather stuck
to an horizontal stick, of about a foot long, which is fastened to a
strn^, and a candle Ughted at the other end ; and this stick is
put to whirl round, and he that can catch the Apple with his
teeth shaU have it for his dexterity. Another apple is put into a
paU of water, and he that takes it up has it. Each throws a nut
into the fire, which, if it blazes clearly, indicates a happy year to
the person ; but if it blackens and cracks, otherwise, perhaps an
omen of death. They after this partake of a supper of Parsnips,
and a bed of parsnips .is generally sown in every garden for this
purpose.

332 tours in wales

IV.
LHUYDIANA*
(1696-)=and following years.
ANGLESEY. St. Elian's.
There is a Cupboard, where fooUsh people used to thrust their
heads and their bodies, where, if they can turn, they hold it a
good omen.
Lhan Eleth.
In Lhanallgof Parish St. Eleth rode into the Sea, and came
ashore here at Amlwch, where, upon a flat rock, they shew the
prints of his horse shoes.
It is certain that there lived heretofore in Anglesey men and
women of a gigantick stature ; and such a woman was buried
in the Church of Llanedwyn, who was commonly called Y Ferch
a'r Bais Ids. And about 80 years ago some joUy young men
fell adigging of her grave, and found her Bones wholly answerable
to the tradition of her high stature.
The Grave of Ffinan is to be seen to this day on the edge of
the road leading from Beaumaris to Lhangefni, not far from
Llanfinan Chapel.
Round Table on Dinas Sylwy Frenin seems to have been a
large British Camp. It has no Trench nor was it necessary, it
bemg encompassed on all sides with a naked precipice. On the
top there is a circle of stones like Carn Llechau, but no Cistvaen —
Llan Ge-vney in Anglesey, June 20, 1696.
Lhech Genvarw.
June 20th, 1695, one 0. ap Wm. Owen, of Llannerchymedd,
digging for building stones, found 8 or 9 Graves, viz., Kistieu
maen, all underground, one about 3 yards long, and in it a
piece of skull, exceeding thick, about 2 feet deep. Within a
stone's cast of them there is a large stone pitched on end.
* MS. 2.59.

APPENDIX — IV 333
In Llech Cynvarwy Ues a decay'd town caUed Geirn, out of
which an 100 Men were sent to the King's Service {vix credo).
Bodychen House, which was built by Rhys ap Llewelyn ap
Hwlkyn, was the first house of that height in Anglesey.
Inscription above the Church Door at Llangadwaladr ; another
at Vron deg. Inscriptions at Capel Eithm — July 6, 1696.
There are two especial Tides in Anglesey Seas in Spring, called
Rhyferthwy coch Ma-wrth and Rhyferthwy yr Adar, when the
Sea flows higher than at any other time of the year. The first
is the next Spring tide to the vernal Equinox ; the other at the
latter end of AprU or beginning of May.
On the 22nd of Feby 1649, the Rump or ReUck of ParUam*.
passed an Act for propagation, on rather extirpation, of the
Gospel m Wales, by force whereof all the Ministers of Anglesey
were sequestered and ejected, but Mr. Robt. Morgan, Mr. Evan
Lloyd, and Mr. Tho' Hughes.
CARNARVONSHIRE.
12 great Stones pitched on end in a circular order on a very
smaU dike or bank. The Diameter of Area about 19 paces. Two
of them that are fallen do-wn between two and three yards high.
5 others about a yard and a half or two yards, and the rest about
a yard in height, but aU rude and unwrought. Between these
greater stones are several lesser ; and the circular bank is wholly
composed of stones. There is no Cistvaen in the midst, but
there is one a few paces off, where there are lesser stones pitched
on end, and a Bowshot farther 2 Carneddau.
CoETEN Arthur.
Yng Hae'r Goeten in Celynin Parish a Cromlech, very smooth
underneath, but of an uneven testudmeous kind of form above,
Uke that at Bodo-wyr, in Anglesey. It is supported by 3 stones,
about 3 feet in height, but there's a 4th not near so high. The
entry into it is almost towards the East. Many rude Stones
near, some do-wn, others pitched on end.
About a mile to the South of this Cromlech there's another.
N.B., one of the supporters, that on y" East, towards the top a
Uttle pyramidal, seems to have been -wrought.
There's near a smaU rising caU'd CasteU DeU, and the field it
is in, Bryn y Castell.
There's another Cromlech to the South of Coeten Arthur called
AUor Beuno, which is a long stone, between 3 and 4 yards in

334 TOURS IN WALES
length. At the East end much higher than the other, about 2
Feet thick ; from which 'tis graduaUy thinner to the other end.
On the South side it slopes. It is supported by 3 Stones, but
there's a 4th, not high enough to reach it. It Ues on a small
bank. Upper surface full of Tolkie.
Anno 1691. At a rising ground in Morfa Nevyn called Pen yr
orsedd, -within a furlong to the West of Y Plas yng Heidio, were
found Urns.
3 Pots Uke Bee hives, and altogether as large, -with mouths
do-wmwards. On the top of each a round hole, capable of
admitting a boy's fist.
These were placed in order lengthwise, and by them another
order of Urns of a much less size.
The bones and earth were in the large ones, and the lesser
had nothing in them. CoETEN Arthur.
Tre Garnedd in Llanjestin Parish is about 3 yards long, and
2 and ^ broad, and is a monument of that kind they call Heathen
Altars, and not of the Cromlech kind. About 4 yards to the
West of this a very small tumulus, Uke a large grave.
N.B. That there is an inscription on the blue stone, etc., in
Llanvair Parish between Newburgh and Carnarvon in a ditch
by the wayside. It is pitched on end ; is broad, but not high.
Penmaenma-wr.
Inaccessible on all sides for loose stones, which in many places
are heaped one on another so as to form waUs about 2 yards
thick. On the land side these walls are like turrets, but towards
the sea they seem to have been continued waUs. No part of
these waUs now standmg above 4 feet high and 4 and | ; nor
was there ever any mortar — mere magwyreu. On the very
height of this hiU there is such a Well as I observed at CasteU
Dinas Bran, -viz., a Pydew, or small pit of water that never runs
over. The edge or brink of this Pydew is guarded with stones,
which seem to have been pitched there with hands.
St. Tudwall.
The Relicks of an old Causeway are seen near Pwllheli going
mto the sea to the St. Tudwall Island, so called from a she Saint
of that name.

APPENDIX — rv 335
In the time of Bp. [Robert] Morgan [Bangor, 1666-73] there
happened a kind of Rot among the Clergy, more dyuig in 7
years than had before in 30.

DENBIGHSHIRE.
Near the place where is sepulchrum Emiliani Tovisaci there
was a place caUed Presep y -vuwch, and an enclosed spot by
about 15 or 20 stones, each a load for 4 Oxen, placed on end
near each other. Within a stone's throw of this there was a
place caUed Petrual, where people had been digging for supposed
treasure ; but they found nothing, only stones placed as they
conceived to mark a grave.
Cerig a Llythrenneu between Llanrwst and Conway.
A sort of Cromlech between Cerrig y Druidion and Spytty by
Havod y maidd.
Kessig Aled, two grey stones by Llyn Aled.
The grave of the taU man, having a stone at each end, 3 or
4 yards in length, ar Vryn y Petrual, and there are letters on
one of the stones.
An Inscription found at Llwyneu Brys. Enquire at Plas lolyn.
At Kreigieu Glyn Diff-wys, in Llangwm Parish, they find a
sort of clay which, when tempered, they use to solder with.
They first lay it on the Iron, and af*^ heat it.
Kerrig y Druidion.
Examine it well. Llwybr Elen -wrth garchar Kenrig Rh-wth.
Meum on Voelas Mount in Denbighshire, and at Dinas in
Carnarvonshire. Q. Why at these Roman Forts, and, whether
planted there at first ?
At both Llan EUans there is a weU where people offer Groats.
At Llandoged the Parson hath a tithe of Smelts or Sparlings,
and pubUck thanksgiving is offered when the first fish is taken.
Llannevydd
(cormptly caU'd Llan I-vydd), near this Churchyard there is Bedd
Frymder, who was reputed a Saint, set about -with Yew.*
* Cf. ParochiaUa, i, p. 153. Ed.

336 tours in wales
Nantglyn.
Saint y glaw, to whom they prayed for ram in times of popery.
Within the old waUs of Capel Morde[yrn] the old superstitious
people did use to dig a reddish Earth, which, being sprinkled upon
the Cattle, would keep them (as they fancied) from diseases.

CARMARTHENSHIRE. Llandebie.
A Village consisting of 9 Houses. Dygwl Debie 3 diwamod
kyn dygwl Vair. Distant from Llandeilo Va-wr 3 miles and
Carm" 10. In the Commot of Iskennen. Bounded with Bettws,
LlandeUo Iskennen, Lh. Vffiangel Aberbythych, Llan Arthne,
Lh. On, Lh. Edi. Its breadth from Rhyd y bisweU i ^l y
manlh-wyd five miles, and is from Bettws to Kappel Gwenlaish
3 nailes. A Vicarage. Rich"! Le-wis present incumbent. Divided into
8 Hamlets, viz., Fferen va-wr, Fferen y garn, Derwydh, Tir Rosser,
PistyU, Piodeu, y Blaeneu, Glyn Tay. Pont gerig on Marleis by
the ViUage. Henbon[t] on y'= same Brook a mile higher. Der-
-wydh the Seat of Rich"! Vaughan Esq', y* present Burgess for
Carmarthenshire. Piode an ancient Seat belongmg to Arthur
G-wryn Esq'. Llandebie House his present habitation. Mydh-
ynfych belonging to 2 Co-heiresses, the Daughters of Walter
Lloyd Gent. Aber Laish the present house of Thom^ Bennet
Gent". Kilyrychen belongs to Geo. Rice of Newton Esq'.
Y Dinas a very high mount seemingly aU natural. Ty'n y dail
enw Ty wrth Grug a chlawdh o gwmpas idho e. A Beacon upon
the Dinas aforesaid. Y deg karreg ar y Mynydh ma-wr are so
many stones pitched on end in a regular order. Also y^ Man
hir near y® Ch. j^. Bryn y Bedheu on Mynydh ma-wr, a mile
hence, where there is a round entrenchment. The Gam Bicka
is only a Limestone Quarry. There is a place at Fferen y PistiUi
call'd Pant y Wydhan, famous as is reported heretofore for
dueUmg. They talk much here of one G-wilU Va-wr who Uved
at Llygn y Blaeneu. He was a Man of prodigious strength, and
lived in the time of Henry 7th, serving under S' Rhys ap Thomas.

APPENDIX  IV 337
Their Mountains are Mynydd mawr, a Common about 2 miles
long, and Carn Bicka. Kod piode a small wood. Hendre
syglaeth the name of a Sydhyn. Marlaish River springs out of
Pysgodlyn larll in the Parish of Llanvihangel Aber bjrfchych, and
runs ahnost thro' the middle of this Parish, and so divides Bettws
from Llan Edi, etc. This River meets -with Lhychwr vach in
this P. near Kastell hen. Gwenlaish sprmgs at Cappel Gwenlais
m Lh. -vffiangel Parish, and divides this Parish from that, and
falls into Marlais River at Waun y Vicar. G-wydhvan springing
at Lh. dyvan (a name of a Medicinal Well in this Parish), and
so runnmg thro' this Parish enters Morlaish near Piode vach.
Nant g-wineu (sometimes dry) rises near Piode House, and falls
into Morlais near Piodeu vach. Y Lash springs at Pylheu
Gloiwon in this P. and faUs in Lhychwr va-wr at Aber laish.
Lhychwr vach comes out of Lhygad Lhych-wr in Llandeilo
Iskennen P., and running thro' this meets with Morlaish, and
last at Aber lash, whence it takes the name of Lhych-wr va-wr.
Amman River springs somewhere in Brecknockshire, and runs
thro' the [P. of Ystrad] Gynleis and bounds Bettws from this
P., and then falls into Llych-wr vawr by Melyn Lh-wndu. Llychwr
vach has a remarkable fall called Ffrwd va-wr near Klyn hir issa.
G-wiU R. springs at Kors ffoch [goch] from [blank] and divides
this P. from Lh. Nonn etc. Fferrws comes from Kwm-Nant
[Tarw] m this P., and dividing this from Lhan fade [Edi] falls
into Amman [Llych-wr] at Velyn newydh m Lh. Edi Parish.
Old names here are Cadwaladr, Gronw, etc. A woman lately
died here aged 100, and it is supposed there may be about 20
qr 30 aged 80. Gwenlaish R. runs underground from Pyffieu
drychiaid (i.e. putei fossarum) in Lh. Vih' parish to Ff)mnon
gwenlais. Caves at Dinas hiU. Yn yr affit -vychan yn y Dinas y
mae i tri Kyskadydhion etc. There is lead earth tho' not worked
at Dinas. Iron ore common, but not pits at present. Stone
coal in abundance all over the Parish ; also Limestone plentiful.
Y gam rydjmen ar y G13, a Lhyn trod y vran dan y G15 ; also
in the LUnestone, Lhygad jv Ych, and Lhyn Kregin. Last year
a large long necked bird was fcund here. Quere as large as a
Goose, of a grey color ; Pig dhy a choeseu dhyon.* The place
caU'd bryn yr Eglws in this P. is a circle of smaUer stones, where,
accordmg to tradition, the Church of Lhandybie formerly stood.
Y deg karreg are 17 smaU stones pitched on end in a circular
order, besides 3 others out of the circle.
* An interestmg mstance of the dual number in Welsh. — Ed. Z

338 tours in wales
Lhannon.
Is call'd as is supposed from Non y® Mother of St. Da-vid.
They formerly kept their feast on the 2"'^ March. A small viUage
of 5 famiUes, 2 whereof are but cottages. In the K-wmmwd of
KarnawUion. The adjoining parishes are Llan Edi, Llan Genech,
Lh. Effii, LI. Dharrog, Lh. Arthne, Lh. Dybie. 3 mUes and 1|
broad. In Impropriation of y* D'^^ of Somerset (who has 6 churches
here, Lh. On, Lh. Gennech, Lh. Elhi, Pembre, Lh. Dyvaelog, Lh.
Gyndeym), who allows M' Morgan y^ incumbent 20 marks per
annum. It consists of 4 Hamlets, Glyn, Blaenau, Is morlais, y Goedref.
Y bont ne-wydd betw. Lh. Edy and Lh. Non a wooden Bridge.
Ystlys y Koed a House in this parish belongs to M' R<i Gwyn
of Gwempe. Blaen Hirath belongs to M'. John Llwyd o Lan
Gennech, y" present Sheriff.
Y Kryg a small artificial Mount in a bog at Brynhwlthen vach.
Two Stones pitched on end at Gwayn i man ffiwyd. A mile
hence, also another at Bryn y Man. A Beacon at Lhwytkot.
Mynydh y goedre, Mynydh bach, Mynydh y Garn vach.
The Brook Gwilly springs at Mynidh ma-wr and divides this
Llanon from Lh. Edy. Gwendraeth vawr di-vides Lh. On from
Lla'ndarrog. Morlais (Kornant) springs near BjTgroes, and runs
through the midst of this parish and falls into Lhwchwr m Lh.
gennech parish, having 1^* run thro' Coal pits on Evan Gryphydh's
land at Dynant. Tyle stones dug at Bryn ma-wr. No Limestone.
Ffynnon mynydh y Goetre noted for its binding quaUty.
De Lhannon supra
Lhan-Non ai bron ai bri
Mam Archescop Dewi
Lhan hynod -wi-wnod yw hi
Mam dylwyth gwlad Kydweli.
Lhanelhy.
A small market Town of 51 Houses. They hold their Feast
on Dwgwl fair y CanhwUeu. It lies in one of the 3 chwmmwd
of KidwelU bordered with the Sea, Penbre, Lhannon, Lh. gennach ;
and divided from Caslwchwr by that River. This Parish 7 mUes
long from Kaslwch-wr to Pont y Berem, and about 3 b'^ from
Lheidi River to Lh. On. It is governed by a Portreeve.
The Informant has seen 7 Parishes meet here at their Mab

APPENDIX — IV 339
sant of Dwg-wyl ElUso, which is a week before the other. It is
an Impropriation of the Duke of Somerset. Half a mile out of
the To-wn— caUed yr hen Gastell. Capel Gwenffiiw m this P. is
now ruined, and called now Capel Byrwig. This P. has but
3 Bridges, Pont ar Luedi, a Stone B. at the upper end of the
Town, and a Wooden one at the lower end.
A House at Lh. ElU was lately the Seat of John Vaughan Esq'.
Y dommen va-wr a Tumulus by the Hen GasteU. Mynydh Coese
Ca-WT a Common, als Mynydh Syle. Lhiedi River sprmgs at
Mynydh Syle m this Parish, and running thro' it faUs into the
Sea below LI. Effii. Sion dd. Domas of this Parish died about
8 y^ ago aged 105. M' Mansel of Trimsarn has a Coal Work
at Cwm Llanelhi. Penbre.
Situated in the commot of KydweU. Bordered on the North
with Croeslaw Mount in Lh. Elhi ; also Lh. Gyndarn, KydweU,
and the Sea. The ViUage has about 20 Houses. Is divided mto
3 Hamlets, -viz. Lhan, Penrhyn, and Lhanderi.
Certain rums here, perhaps a Priory belonging to the Abbey of
Taley. In this Parish are 2 Chapels, K. Lhan Dyri and K.
Kynnor. The latter now rumed ; in the former Evening Service
is read. Pont Yspydor a Stone Bridge over Gwendraeth Va-wr,
leadmg to KidweU P. Pont Newydd another Bridge up a mile
higher upon the same.
Penbre Court y<= Seat formerly of the Butlers, and afterwards
of the Vaughans, and now belongmg (m right of his Lady) to
— BaU Esq', whence it descends to my L^ Ashburnham's
Lady. Trim Sarran y^ Seat of S' Edward Mansel, who had it
m right of his Wife, the Heiress of PhilUp Vaughan Esq' deceased.
Lhetty'r ychan belongs to M' Mansel of Britton Ferry, formerly
to S' Ed-i Mansel of Mudlecomb B* in KidweU Parish. Near
Lhetty'r ychan there is a Field called Park y dimpath, entrenched
about and having a vault underneath, sed de hoc quaere meUus.
Near Lhandyrri Chapel there is also an intrenched Barrow called
y« Mote. Pen y bedd the Mansion of Cha^ Dalton Gent. Kalde-
kot that of Ja. Dalton. Kod y Marchog near Pembre. At Kod y
Marchog they have a Rock called Karreg 1-wyd whence they
have a prospect of the sea. A Warren at Pembre Sands belonging
to BaU Esq'.
Morlais Brook springs at Cr6slaw Mountain, and rims thro'
this Parish by Lhan dyrri Chapel to Gwendraeth. Diwlais
Brook di-vides this Parish from Lh. Effii, springmg at Croslaw
z2

340 TOURS IN WALES
Mountain, and faUs into the Sea in y" si^ Division. Gwendraeth
divides them from KydweU, springing at Lh. Llech Owen in Lh.
vihangel P. Here are 2 Lakes close together, called Swan Pool,
where there are plenty of Eels, and in the Winter store of Fowls,
such as Ducks and Teel, sometimes wild Swans or Elks and -wild
Geese. The adjoining one stored -with Turbot, Bret, and Sole.
They take here a large sort of Fish caU'd Friers or Monk Fish
(m Hereford, Glocester, and Worcester, whither they carry them,
Soucing Fish) about May, June, and July. This Pool (or Pools,
for both may be called one) is called Swan Pool because the Lord
of the Manor (M' Bull) has thereon about 40 Swans. Before
the hard Frost there were about 80, which all died to 6.
About 5 Years since one Ann Davy was buried aged 111.
One Saeds WilUam now living is above 100, and John Thomas
Rys near that age. There are about 10 more near 80. They
have a well called Ffynnon Gynrie much used against vomitmg ;
it casts up certam Gravel which they call old coal. They have
also Ffynnon Vre and Ff" newydh, not so much at present
resorted to as formerly. Ffjmnon Deri near the Chapel of that
name ; a Rain- Water standing in a hollow Stone. Coal works
by Trim Sarran, and Run coal for Smiths at Kyross. Tile Stones
on Garn vawr. No Umestone.

Carmarthen
has 430 Houses, whereof 43 are considerable. I heard that m
the country they find the frock fern, etc., below the coal, and
as the workmen are persuaded, never above it.
Y Castell -wrth Gappel S* Nicholas* is in circuit 7 score paces
m the middle of the hedge, and 6 from the apex to the bottom.
The well of S* Nicholas is celebrated for its waters, and is resorted
to by people li-ving 60 Miles off. It is good for a hooping Cough
and g-wrthnebrwydd— nausea ; nor is it right to put the vessel
do-wn to the floor till 'tis brought to the patient. The water of
the spout -will not make broth ; therefore for such purposes they
take it from below the spout.
* This excerpt cannot by any chance apply to Carmarthen, as no Chapel
(or Holy WeU) dedicated to St. Nicholas is kno-VTn to have ever existed
there. It has clearly slipped its mooring. It might possibly relate to
the to-svn of Brecon, where the Castle Chapel bore this dedication. There
is, however, no local tradition to-day of a Holy Well within its precincts,
though there might well have been at the close of the seventeenth
century. Kidwelly also suggests itself, but impossible. — Ed.

appendix — iv 341
Meidrim.
In this parish, Castell bron y gaer, an oval camp. There is a
free school -with endowment of £8, as 'twas ordered, the informant
hearmg by D' Hay Lloyd in informant's hearing.
There is a well at Capel Kynnog that cures Kryd y wrach.
There are pearls m the rivers here.
Kenarth,
a smaU -viUage of 6 thatch'd Houses. The extent of the Parish
about 3 miles long — Ffynnon Lawdhog to Aberkych, and near
the same breadth, from the R. Kych to the R. Teify. Their
feast Dygwl Lawdhog, about the 24*'' Jan. M' B,^ Harries
incumbent of the vicarage.
Houses of note near are GelU Do-wyffi (the Widow Lewis whose
son is James), Pengwern H^<= (Rhys James), Pengwern ycha
(Rich"! Harris, the Vicar), Geffi Gatti (Dd Howels), PenkeUi
( — Niclas), Dyffryn Achty (near Mynachdy), Trelhwyn (Geo.
James), Penrhyn Kych.
At Bwlch y dommen there is an intrenched Tumulus. Capel
i wan krig y car. N.B. y wyrgryg at Llan-vihangel Jorwerth
seems to have been a corruption of y wyrdhyng. A Beacon on
Voel vach. At Park [blank] Kilycod near Bwlch melyn
House there are 3 Stones supporting another vast one, and 2
others pitched by their side. The Forest of Pen y buarth a
great Wood belonging to L. Carbury. River Arad divides this
Parish from Penboir. Gwydhon sprmgs at Voel vach and falls
mto the Tei-vi a mile below Newcastle.
Remarkable Ages, R"* John of N. castle, 95, strong and healthy.
B^ John, 80 ; his Mother 100, but bUnd these 4 years.
Blue Marble plentiful in the Common of Aber-Arad, which
they use much as compost. A Quarry of blue WalUng stone at
the end of N. castle To-wn. Kyn-wyl Elved,
a smaU viUage of 8 Houses. Their Dydhgwyl Gynwyl 3
wythnos yn ol D. nadoUg. Mae yma dair Esgar, Esgar y drefawr,
yr Esgar genol, ag Esgar drevel y pwffi. Yr hen gasteffi y galwant
hen gar ar dir M' H. Howels o ben y Keireu. Y mae Ty bach
a elwir y casteU bach. Pen y Keireu the Seat of M'. Humphrey
Howels : also Lhether M61, his brother Thomas's House.

342 TOURS IN WALES
Y Krug mawr m Elved, a large Barrow ; y Krj'g glas, a chmg
wan. Pen y Keiri aforesaid. Brigwn Kynwyl Kerig dizos ydynt
3 Karreg neu ragor yn i sevill -wrth y pwU du ar gydawelh, o leia
dwy lath a banner y ffiech Iwyd oddiar y Kryg ma-wr yn Elved.
GwiU River springs at Dol Parros (Quaery). Gothi passes
between this Parish and Lhan y Pymsant and the Parish of
AbergwiU, and faUs into Towy at Aberg-wiU Bridge, a q' of a
Mile above Carmarthen. Kydaweffi springs in Lhech Iwyd m
this Parish, and falls into GwiU a mile from Carmarthen. Kyda
weffi vach rises m Pwffi du in this Parish, and faUs in the other
River of the same name near Kyn-wyl Church below the Bridge.
Avon Kowm rh-wng Kyn-wyl ag Ebemant, rises at Kryk glas,
and falls into the Tave near Laugharn. The haU of this Parish
mountainous.
Lhan y pumsant.
Kerwyn Pumsant ar nant y pumsant, whither people resort
from remote places, from 10 Miles off. No coal nor Ume.
Llanvihangel y Corn.
Pencader WeU formerly much resorted to. Pencader Chapel
rumous. Trelech.
Probably so called from Llech y Vilast, a small mile distant.
Pant Howel, once the Seat of Sir James WilUams, was m this
Parish.
At Maes Lhan wrthwl
there is a stone mscribed caUed Maen -wrthwl —
TALORI ADVENTI maqverigi filivs.
Kaio.
At Gorsddu they find swords, dagger. Horse shoes, and as
some imagine Muskets. A woman delivered of 3 Children at a
birth, 1656.
Penylanwen is perhaps an artificial Mount. CasteU Meurig
coch an entrenchment at the top of a high hiU.
Cr-wys hen Sarn Elen near Lh. y Big-wn Karnoithen.
Two stones hard by Bwlch -with strokes, and 2 others by
Borthin. Bryn y bedd a hiU in the Hamlet of Cwm T-wrch.
Crygie ladyr are several heaps of stones in Cwm Keffi near bwlch

APPENDIX — rv 343
y rhiw, near which Y Maen hir. Coitane Arthyr ar Waun Cwm
luogwen. A piece of gold was lately found at Cwm Gogerddan
in Maenor issa ; another probably Roman found at Gogoveu.
N.B. Carreg awyr — Chrystallus. At Bryn Eglwys no Church nor
tradition of any. At Cryg Cyski in Kilycwm parish artificial
Mounts, where 0. Glynd-wr lay. There have been old swords
found. N.B. They caU here hiUs Glennydd, and plains EUand,
and Gallt a wood.
There is a pool caU'd Eneinva in Rhannell river, concerning
which an old woman related, that she and another had brought
a man there who had been bedridden a 12 month, and after
bathing there he became drowsy, and slept -with his feet in the
water and head on their Laps for about 2 Hours, after which
he walked home. The Ger-wn is a small pond above, whither
they drive Cattle to prevent and cure the Murram. Some throw
water mto their nostrils and besprinkle them -with the water.
The murrain they caU the Wharren.
There is a lake caU'd Llyn y Gogove ; and Lhyn t-wrch on the
top of Craig dwrch. At Enemva they shew Ffynnon y Clystiau
and Ffynnon y Llygad ; and Ffynnon Gyn-wil, where they shew
the print of his Knees, Elbows, and boots.
Gogove, Caverns supposed to be Roman mines. Carreg yr
A-wyr and Carreg Kesser sometimes found. Carreg y pumsant
at Gogove. The Cure above mentioned was wrought at y Gerwn,
not at Eneinva.
N.B. Lhannerch y mor-wynion, a small place m the midst of
a field caUed Caer y Gogovau ne carreg y pumsant, just below
Gogovau pool ; notwithstanding Uming and muckmg would never
produce any com or turmps, etc. This is a thing beyond dispute
and weU known to aU the neighbours. Lhansa-wel.
Craig cwm gorlech. Rock where Ravens breed.
Llanycr-wys,
Man y Prenvol, a Cistvaen ; also the Hirvaen gwidhog, the
mere stone. KiL Y Cwm.
CasteU Hain, an Entrenchment. Neuadd va-wr, formerly the
mansion of Llewelyn ap G-wilym ap Llewelyn, whose motto over
his door was, Gresso pan dhelech, a chennad pan vynnech, a

344 TOURS IN WALES
phan dhelech tra vynnech trig. Here are two [heaps] caUed
Crygiau Cysky, where arches of wheels have been found ; also
Crygiau ladyr, two great heaps of stones menf. erroneously in
Caio. 3 great Stones erected triangularly at a field called Maes
y Uecheu. Maen hir on Maffian Mountain. Pieces of spears
found at Cae Ll-vyyn Owen by ploughmg. Gaffit nwch [?] g-wyn
a notable rock above Gwnlas River, Cwm y vran a notable wood,
where Herons breed. Sarn Elen is on Pentre C-wn land. Also
in Lhanycr-wys parish from Rhyd y geleu to T-wrch, both
pitched. Most of this parish of one family or Clan, and called
Ll-wyth Vorgan.
Taley or Tal y Llycheu,
called from the two Lakes near, or Fishponds. A Cave in the
church called Y Vwt vydhar is reported to go underground and
under the Lakes.
Near TaUaris we saw about 30 rude stones placed somewhat
in oval form. There seems to have been heretofore 2 or 3 orders
of them.
Llansadwrn.
A Stone pitched on end ar blain [?] Marlais, in which sticks
a piece of an iron bar. Maenhir [?] round or flat on the ground
near it. In front [of] Abermarlais.
Llanwrda.
There is a Beacon on Cefn bennydd.
Llangadog.
The Grave stone at Llangadog said to be the Monument of
Idio Wyllt. At Carnwen is such an old Caer as Caer Corvnni.*
Y groes vach has an Inscription. A beacon on the top of
Trychryg. Coeten Arthur is a very round stone lymg on the
ground. * Edw. Lhuyd no doubt meant the Caer (its name spelt Caer Cremi,
C. Crwyni, among other forms) almost midway between the -vUlages of
Llangwm and LlandrUlo yn Edeirnion. See the letter -written to him m
1693, with a groundplan of the Caer, m Arch. Camb., 1851, pp. 54-5;
also the paper on it, ib., 1881, pp. 307-15. There is a proverb, " Lladd
maer Caer ar Gefn Cerwyni" (Myv. Arch.,Tp. 864), Murdering the Mayor
of Chester on Cefn Cerwyni. Cf. Prof. Bridge, Cheshire Proverbs, 1917
pp. 138-9.— Ed.

appendix— iv 345
Myddvay.
A beacon formerly on y leugod [Goleugoed]. The Castle
they say was called Castell Myddevy.
Lhandyngat.
The road from y^ river Mynys to Pont y rhyd Tawe about 3
miles is artificial and supposed Roman. Some Meini glam have
been found in this parish.
In Llanybyddar parish a man found a Cothurnus by cutting
turf at Bwlch y kythUn. It reached to the middle of y^ leg,
and was to be laced to the back of y® foot.
Llanyb-yddar.
Crygeu Edrith are 4 TumuU, 2 and 2, about fifteen yards
asunder, each a heap of Stones. Tommen y Castell a round
Mount entrench'd. Pen y gaer -with bwlch y gwrdy is at least
on J" top 100 yards Diameter, with a double ditch. Over ag*
this 'm Cardiganshire is another, called Pen Court Rhyddlan.
Sarn Elen visible (to the Informant) for 5 miles, -viz., from Gwar
yr allt m LlanUwyny parish, by Bwlch y g-wrdy through Yskybor
Aberduar, tr-wy dy Lh-wyn crwn a than y bank under Pencarreg
Church, and through the wood of Cylyblaidd, and through
Dolgwm Moor. It's pitched and graveUed. Memorandum — ¦
About 30 years ago, this was a very woody tract, and harbour'd
highwaymen. Llyn Gogwrn. Penkarreg.
Llyn badam above the Church. It affords no fish, but about
March, and so to May, it throws up a small prickly Eel, almost
dead. The Informant's -wife saw once a vast fish, by her com
parison as big as a horse, in the month of June. No water comes
m or goes out. There are plenty of trees in this pool, and they
say a town swallowed in it. AU the trees presumed to be oak.
It casts up plenty of Sabularia lacustris. They say it was famous
formerly for changing its colour into yellow, and particularly it
changed colour when the above hellua appeared at Wainddu just
under the Church. Fir trees are often dug.
It is observable that there is neither Coal nor Lime between
To-wy and Teifi.

346 tours in wales
Llanvihangel y Corn.
Trees pitched crosswise called Y Groes ddrain, near which they
had a Beacon on Cefn y gribin. Llanll-wni.
The Ruins of an old Priory near the Church. Capel Nonni
ruinous time out of mind. Croes Elen a beacon or PentaU.
Ardd y garreg 1-wyd on Yskybor wen, land about 2 yards high.
Crygier ieir, dan grig. Cryg y BisweU, a large mount.
Near Llandyssil on Teffi-side, in Carmarthenshire — Ir oedd
gwaith 4 Sgwar uwch ben yr af on ; heb' ddim gwaith yno, either
yn serth iawn, ai henw CasteU Henfryn.*
Within a mile of Aberglasney a carved Stone, the same probably
as Sanders's Cross.

GLAMORGAN,
They caU a Cistvaen m Glamorganshire Coffor Garreg.
Merthyr Tydvael,
a ViUage -with about 40 Houses. A Rectory of considerable
value. Pont y gwaith so caUed from an iron work ha-ving
formerly been there.
Y T-wyn, a Uttle above Pentre Merthjrr. A remarkable Parish.
An old inscription on a Marble Stone m y^ church.
Gellygaer.
Here are mclosed fields called y gaer, whence its name.
Encompassed formerly with a wall, as appears by remams of it.
In this Gaer they find bricks, which bespeaks it Roman. On the
Mountam called Cefn Geffi gaer there are divers Carneddau,
particularly one caUed Carn bycka, a Cistvaen. On a Carn at
Cefn geUy gaer Parson Thomas told me that a Cafan, Uke a Hog
trough, was about 15 years ago. Fynnon Gattwg good for sore
Eyes. It is worthy of notice that m many Parishes in this
district there are TumuU near the Churches.
* Cf. ParochiaUa, iii., p. 77. — Ed.

appendix — iv 347
Coyty Castle.
Anciently the seat of one Meurig, then of the TurberviUes,
then of the Gamages. Inscription at Coyty Church, and at
Oldcastle Chapel on the Font stone. Pwffi dai Griffith — so
caUed from a man of that name drowned therein, and never
seen after — ^is a remarkable pool within less than a Qu'. of a
nule of Bridge end. The ground where it is seems to have been
sunk, and now of the shape of a Ume kiffi, said to be unfathom
able. The water looked U-vid and nasty. It is more than a
stone's Cast from the surface of the water to top of Bank. Two
Eels were seen by the informant (Abr. Price) found in this pool
of an extraordmary size, and of a Pyed colour Uke Snakes. Their
Flesh (says he) eat as strong as beef.
Llandocho.
CasteU Llandocho, Sir Ed-W^ Mansel's. Lady Walsh's Monu
ment, 1427, who is said to have Uved in the Castle.
St. Athan's.
An old house caUed Castleton East Orchard belonged to the
BerkroUes. A heap of Stones di-vidmg this Parish from Llant-wit
Major caUed Quick and Dead. The tradition is that the tombs
in the So : Isle belonged to the BerkroUes, FUmston. Fynnon
y green noted for curing sore eyes, before Sun rising. Some years
a sort of Knotty grass common here grows to such a size, to the
length of 9 feet, which is so sweet that Hogs eat it. It has yielded
10 Waggon loads an acre, each waggon dra-wn by 6 Oxen.
Llanvaes.
The Effigy of Cattwg lately in wood. There is an old house
caU'd Llanvaes Castle belonging formerly to the Bedfords and
Maleford. Quere if not Malefant.
At CulverweU, about haK a mile from it, a Camp, perhaps
Roman, says Lhwyd (but from its shape, say I, not), encompassed
with treble ditch, except where it lay towards the Sea, where no
fence was necessary. Somewhat of a triangular form, and about
700 paces in circuit. Mr. Nichols told us 'twas caUed Col Hugh.
Only one entry, except from the Sea. (Danish no doubt.)
Llantwit Major.
The Samt is lUtud. His feast is held 6th Nov'. Then they
have revels, dancmg, horse racing, etc., and they build a Hut

348 tours in wales
which they call John o' Neal's Castle. This John o' Neal is
habited Uke the fool in our Welsh Anterlutes. The King and
Queen and Pancake, etc., besiege him, and so rout him. By the
Church a House caUed the Chantry. The Church loft here is as
large as most College Halls m Oxford. There are CeUars and
other conveniences for bre-wing, and -withm these 40 Years, or
thereabout, there were brewing Vessels, and such as were neces
sary for a feast, and Wedding dinners, and Ale biddmgs, were
kept there. Saesneg Lhan lUtid is a proverb for broken EngUsh,
for the old Natives were EngUsh, but Welsh encroaches very
much. In this Parish are Cattwg's Cross, Martin's Cross,* and several
others, besides that -with ihs on North side of Church, and
another on South side.
Reinold's Church is a Cave in a Sea CUff between the Dumb
hole and St. Donats. GiLSTONE.
There is a well that ebbs and flows.
COULSTON OR COWLSON,
in Welsh, Tre Col-wyn. At the Golden Mile there is an artificial
Mount call'd Ty t-wmpath daiar.f EWENNY.
Ff5mnon vair jnig Hortwn. Ffynnon vawr yno hevyd. That at
Ewenny a notable spring. In the Park a lead mine.
Newton Nottage.
A Barrow on Mynydd Trene-wydd caUed Twmpath daiar, and
a round Entrenchment near.
Lhandidawc, Tythecston.
A well called Fynnon Ivan is presumed to cure the Kmg's
Evil.
* These are both wrongly ascribed. For the best account of the Llantwit
inscribed and sculptured stones, see Arch. Camb., 1889, pp. 118-26
(Mr. J. BomUly Allen) ; and 1899, pp. 147-55 (Sk J. Rhys).— Ed.
t For the opening of this barrow, see ib., 1888, pp. 83-93. — Ed.

appendix — iv 349
Merthyr Mawr.
Merthyr Mawr an old House of Sir Ed. StradUng. Tre Gonffio
belongs to my L'^ Brook. It is thought there has been a sort
of Castle there formerly. Capel Sant y Rok a mined Chapel
visited by some Rom. Catholicks. Wa-fcers frequently ran here
underground.

Mr. Cox's Salthouse, Oct'. 28, 1697, shewed us by Mr. Rich'i
Thomas of Watchet, Somersetshire.
They had a great wooden tub or Vat, into which they pumped
the Sea Water, with which they near filled it. Adjoimng the
Tub were three several fire places placed triangularly at equal
distances. Out of each fire place went a Mortar piece or iron
pipe, resembUng a piece of Canon, towards the tub for conveying
the heat. This water in the tub they boil for a longer or shorter
time (accordmg to the state of the weather) -with coal fire, and
the nearness of the Coal was their greatest Encouragement, till
by tasting they find it suff*'y salt. After that they lade it into
broad square leaden pans, Uke coolers, and they boil it for some
hours (an hour or two was commonly found to suffice), after
which the salt would shoot to the bottom, much Uke Ice. This
done they take it up and place it into baskets over earthen pots.
So the salt sticks in the baskets, and the Uquor faUs into the
pots. The Salt they put into Bins, fashioned Uke the mside of a
roof, which have a conveyance at bottom for the Uquor to run
out, and vessels on the outside to receive it, as is used in making
Cyder.

V.
MISCELLANEA* ANGLESEY.
Llanbedr goch Mathafarn Wyon Church is built on an old
Gaer. Supposed Graves found all round it, but without the
Churchyard. Door south side a square stone curiously moulded.
* Mainly from MSS. 2.58 and 2.59.— Ed.

350 TOURS IN WALES
2 Stone heads, one on each side of the door, seemingly meant for
Bishops. Arms of Gweryd ap Rhys goch in painted Glass on
Chancel Window, -viz.. Argent on a bend sable 3 Leopards' Heads
of the field.
Pabo Post Prydain, a large face (Nid anhebig, says Ed. Lh-wyd,
i wyneb Griff. Jones).

Aberfraw.
There are stiU some reUcks of the Prmce's Palace there.
1. In Aberfraw there was Eglivys y bwytty, a church wherein the
Prince's dole was dealt.
2. Talar y rhodio, a kind of green where the gentlemen attend
ing on the Prince used to walk.
3. Bryn Cun, near Bod Erw, the Hill of the Lord, where dwelt
some Lord of the Court.
4. Trefdraeth Wastrodion, or the To-wnship belonging to the
Prince's Grooms or Stables.
5. Trefdraeth Disteiniaid, i.e., Oeconomorum.
6. Y Llys, the place where the Palace stood.
7. Y Gadlys, the Pretorium, or the Prince's court of guard.
8. Eglwys Abbot du, part whereof was standing withm these
40 or 50 years, but now qmte taken away, and the fair is kept
on the site of it.
9. Maes y Maerdy, i.e., the field of the Prsepositus, or to-wn
Praetor's house.
10. Trefgyfri (corruptly Trefgyfryw and Trefryw), the to-wn
ship where the Prince's Accompts and Exchequer was kept.
11. Tref Berfedd, the to-wnship of Garbage, or of the Prmce's
slaughter house.
12. Tref Cornor, or to-wnship of y" Horn Sounds ; both these
last in Lhangadwalader Parish.
13. Tref Castell, in the Parish of Lhang-wyfen, because the
Castle belonging to the Princes stood there.
The Princes of North Wales had four Manors and Palaces in
Anglesey, which were Castles much Uke those in Ireland, as I
conjecture by a small part of one yet standmg. One at Aber
fraw ; another at Rhos fair, now called Newborough ; another
at Penrhos, where is to be seen at this day a piece of the Palace,
called Y Gadlys ; and the 4th at Kemeis — all seated in very fat
soils. These were the Prince's capital Manors, and Courts are
kept to this day in each of them, except Kemeis.

APPENDIX — V 351

CARNARVONSHIRE.

Taken out of an old register of Llandwrog, 1648 —
Alexander Lly^velyn killed att the Skjrrmise by Bettws (between
Sir John Owen's Soldiers and general Mitton's) was hurried the
fourth Day of June, Ano supra diet : (Then was M'. W"" Lloyd
of Plash^n wounded, and dyed two or three Days after).
Llanberis Copper is worth £140 per ton when smelted. 5 tons
of ore will make one smelted. 7 levels in aU ; new one 180 yds.
in length. Boat -will carry about 5 tons. About 50 years ago
first worked. Sion John Robert gained £300 in quarter of a
year. He worked by the ton then ; now by the square yard.
Maen yr Heussor.*
I mae Maen ma-wr yn y Mor yn ymil Rhyd y Cerrig gwynnion
yn y Creuddyn ag a el-wir Maen yr Heussor ag y sydd agos
gyferbyn a LlandriUo yn Rhos, ag ni weUr ef onid dwyweith yn
y vl-wyddm ar ddau ryferth-wy, a'r maen hwnnw oedd o fewn ir
-wyth ugem mlynedd yma cjn. belled tu yma ir beisted (sef yr
beiston, nod y gorUanw) ag ydw y beiston yn a-wr, y tu yma iddo
ef, sef yw hynny milldir neu ychwanneg ; sef yw, achos i gel-wit
ef Maen yr Heussor. Yr Heussor a fyddei arfer ar amser haf
eistie ynghyscoed y maen rhag y tes. A Mem ereill oedd yn
gyfagos neu yn ymyl y maen h-wnnw, Ue i byddei yr Heussor
arfer ddodi ei botteleu yn eu cyscod, ag or achos hwnnw i gelwit
ef Maen yr Heussor ; ac i mae Uemeirch godidog yn magu arnaw
yn awr — Ex libro Johannis Jones.

DENBIGHSHIRE. Denbigh Castle.
Capt" .1"° Arundel had £100 for demoUshing it and makmg it
untenable, -with all the Iron, lead, stone, etc.
There is a tradition stiU about Lhan Sannan of the oppression
of Saeson Conway, for all the Country, even to Bala, paid thsm
contributions. * " The Herdsman's Stone." The extract was, it would appear, origmally
taken from Peniarth MS. 267 (John Jones of Gelli Lyfdy's). There are
copies also m Llanstephan MS. 18, and Panton MS. 17.

352 TOURS IN WALES
Glyndwr's Wars— beginning 1400, lasted 15 years— brought
great desolation on Nant Conwy, so that the green grass gi-ew
in the Market place of Lhanrwst, and the Deer out of Snowdon
fed in the Church yard.
The Parishioners of Harding [Hawarden] are called Jews
because they were very forward at the begmning of the Reforma
tion, in so much that they sold the golden rood for Money.

MERIONETHSHIRE.
In consequence of Sir Rob* Vaughan's passion for roadmaking,
a neighbour of his, a M' Revely, used to call him the Colossus of
Rhodes. Archdeacon Edwards of the Cathedral of St. David's (who
was a DolgeUey Man) knew the great Mr. Fox well, perhaps
havmg been of the same College, viz. Hertford, m Oxford, and
used to say that he was one of the best tempered Men he ever
knew ; that he sometimes thought of a God, sometimes of a
De-vil, and sometimes of neither. This Sir Rob* Vaughan had
from Edwards himself.

BRECKNOCKSHIRE. Llanfrynach, 1698.
There is a Field near Llan-vronach called Cae'r Croff, over
against the dwelling house of the Estate, in one corner of which
is said to be hid a great treasure of Money, and many persons
have attempted to dig a pit there ; but instead of a Treasure
they have been frightened with Apparitions, and at last were
obUged to desist, some of the persons running mad, others lame,
continumg so a long time. These persons are now Uvmg.
[Sir R. C. Hoare. MS. 2. 61.] Battle.
Battle is the name of a Village, of which there is a tradition that
it was so called from a Battle in which Prince Rhys ap Tudor was
slam by lestyn ap Gwrgant and Fitzhamon -with his Normans.
On the Mountain near is a Well called Fynnon pen Syr Rhees.
[Sir R. C. Hoare. MS. 2. 61.]

appendix — V 353
CARMARTHENSHIRE.
Llansadwrn and Llanwrda Parishes.
Pope Nicholas's Taxation makes no mention of them, A.D.
1291. Some therefore conclude that they were not formed then.
They were appropriate to the Abbey of TaUey, founded by the
Lord Rhys, who died A.D. 1197. It was an Abbey of an exempt
or pri-yileged order of Prsemonstratensians.
When the Church of LlansadMTn became appropriate to Talley
there was a Vicarage endowed ; but there is reason to beUeve
that endo-wment no longer exists.
By a Survey, 26*'' Henry 8*'', the Vicarage returned Ann. Val.
£6 10s. Od., but not specffied from where that Sum arose. On
Exammation of Minister's Accounts of the dissolved Abbey,
30 Henry 8*'', it appeared that the Minister of y'^ Crown answered
for £15 lis. 6d. for the Rent of Tythes, etc., of Rectory of
Llanwrda demised to J"" Derham. This Lease was of the
Rectory only, reservmg to the King the advowson of the Vicarage
there, dated 10*'' May 29 Henry 8*'', by which it appears that
Value of Rectory was more than double that of Vicarage.
The Lordship of Llansad-wrrn -with a capital Messuage, Aber
marlais, was part of the possessions Rees ap Griffith attainted and
granted, 37 Henry 8*", to Sir Tho^ Jones, K*.
[In the autograph (Van) of Sir Richard C. Hoare — MS. 2.59 : — ]
Van.
CaUed at Llanddwysant. Stop at the Clerk's, who keeps a
pubUck House. A shrewd fellow, a great lawyer, consulted by
aU the neighbourhood, and a great rogue.
No monument, only a small tablet to one Edwards, of the House
of Blaen Sawdde, an old Mansion above the Sawdde, just at the
foot of the Black Mountam.
Vale of Sawdde well wooded to its source.
Of the Clerk of Lhanddwysant a Poet \vrote : —
Lhanddwysant, bryn yn Sant sy,
Clyche yr Diawl yw'n clochydd ny.
Ascend the Mountain. Saw a number of Mountain Ponies on
the side of the HiU, and a white sandy or gritty stone which
makes the grit with which mower^^ and reapers \vhet their Scythes
2 a

354

TOURS IN "WALES

and Hooks. Went in sight of the first Lake, out of which it is
said the Lochor [issues]. Llanarthney.
Mr. Accerm's analysis of Middleton HaU Chalybeate.*
One Gallon contams
Carbonic Acid Gas  16| Cubic Inches
Atmospheric Air

Total Cub. Inches

41 Do.

21

Carbonate of Lime
Carbonate of Iron
Muriate of Soda
Muriate of Lime
Sulphate of Lime

4.7 5.3 6.253.125 2.125

Total Grains

26.

Temperature 52, when the Thermometer in the open Air was
at 28.

GLAMORGAN.
On a steep hill near to the passage of Britton ferry some time
stood a Castle built by Morgan ap Cradoc ap lestyn, and fortified
with Men, that none of the then late Conquerors durst pass that
way -without a strong guard.
In old times, before Gren-viUe built his Castle at Neath, where
now the Ruins of it are, a Castle stood on the West side of the
River, but built by him in the parish of Llangattwg, probably
where the Roman Station was.
[Sir Richard C. Hoare's account of their visit to Neath — MS.
2. 61 :— ]
Friday. At Neath. Walked out after Breakfast' with Mr.
EUas Jenkms to a Field near the Turnpike to see a spot where,
as the tradition is, a To-wn was once swallowed, which, I fancied.

* Cf. the analysis given in Lewis's Topog. Diet, of Wales, s.v. Llanarthney.
—Ed.

APPENDIX — V 355
might have led to a discovery of the scite of antient Nidum ;
but saw nothmg that could indicate a Roman Station.
From hence walked to the Abbey, which was a prodigious
structure, and very elegant, if we may judge by the very few
pieces which are perfect. The arched Rooms, particularly the
largest supported on Ught PiUars, are very beautiful. Over some
of the Windows remam Stone Lmterns elegantly wrought with
Coats of Arms intermixed with the ornaments. Observed the
Arms of lestyn ap Gwrgant amongst them. I presume the
Windows in that part of the Building, once inhabited by the
family of Hobby, were of that period.
On our return, walked through Court Herbert La-wn to see a
stone taken from the precinct of the Abbey, placed erect, with a
Cross rudels cut on it. Flat on the ground close to it lies m
Effigy, seemmgly weU sculptured, a Priest yith a Church in his
hand, without any inscription.
Sunday, 22 Sep' [1805 1] Left Neath. Morning cold, but
fair. Breakfast at Pyle. Charged Is. 6d. each for Tea. Passed
Margam Woods. Fine. Thought I saw fragments of the Roman
Road near a great Common ffi which there has been great digging
of Limestone.
Pass through Lalystown. AUghted and went up to the Church,
the Porch of which, as well as the door in the West end, shew
the work of a Master. Observe that ornament, ascribed to the
time of Henry 6 or 7*'', over Doors and -windows, thus__| J 
over all the Windows and Doors, supposed to be the work of
Lalys. Reach Bridge End, the Church there seemingly of the same
character with that at Lalyston. Remark a curious ornament
over a house with a Porch in descending the Street towards the
Bridge. Met my old SchoolfeUow, Mr. TurberviUe, for the first
time since we were at School together. Was kindly received ;
dined with him, and took a Bed. The Evening was spent very
cheerfuUy.

2 a2

357

INDEX.

Aaron ap Bledri, Sir, 75
Abbey Cwmhir, 35
Aber (Aber G-tvyn Gregyn, Aber
Garth Gelyn), 181, 203,
206-8,316
Aberdaron, 329-30
Aberdovey, 121
Abererch, 46, 225, 234
Aberescyr, 24
Aberffraw, 274, 350
Aberffrydlon, 86
Abergele, 150-2
Aberglaslyn, 223
Aber Gorlech, 77
Aber Lash, 336-7
Aberllefeni, 84
Aberllifiog, 298
Abermarlais, 63, 69, 72, 344
Abernant, 64
Abernodwydd, 272
Act for Propagation of Gospel in
Wales, 333
Aelhaiam's Well, St., 230
Alaw, r., 267
Ale biddings, 348
Allen famUy, the, 64
AUor Beuno, 333-4
All Saints' Eve customs, 331
Allt yr Odin, 8
Allt yr Ynys, 28
Altar, position of, at Mallwyd, 87
Amlwch, 263-4, 272
Ancaster, first Duke of, 172
Anian, Bp., 144
Anstey, the poet, 90
Antiquarian Society, the, 73
Aran, 88-9, 92, 130
" Archaiology," the, 178
Ardda, 165
Ardda'r Mynach, 176
Ardudwy, 119
Arenig, 90, 130-1
Armada, 315
Artro, r., 96, 98-100, 102-3

Arw, r., 178
Asaph, St., 323
Auricular Confession, 12

Bachwen, 231
Bachygraig, 141-3
Bachymbyd, 157
Baglan, St., 323
Bagot, Bp., 144
Bala, To-wn and Lake, 41-2, 89-9J,
129-30
Bala Association, 42, 45, 89-90
Bala Deulyn, 233, 247
Baldwin, Archbp., 47
Bangor, City and Cathedral, 205,
212-3, 237, 308, 320-1
Bangu, 72-3, 202, 262
Bankes, Sir Joseph, 56, 148
Bardd Coch, 261
" Bardd Cwsc," 99-100
Bardsey Island, 328-30
Barmouth, 51-2, 95-6, 105-7, 110,
122
Baron HiU, 256, 259, 268, 304
Barrow, Bp. Isaac, 144
Battle, 352
Beads, glass, 177 ; silver, 85
Beaumaris, 209, 255-6 ; Castle,
258-9, 286-301 ; Church,
259-60, 275-85, 299 ;
School, 276, 280, 285, 306 ;
"History" of, 275-306
Bedd Dwgan, 230 ; Frymder,
335 ; Gelert, 222-3, 327-8 ;
petrual, 267 ; y Witch,
320-1
Beddau Gwyr Ardudwy, 124
Bell over porch, 96
Benarth, 202
Berain, 147
Berkinhead, Sir Ralph, 170
BerkroUes, the, 347
Berwyn Hills, 40, 78

358

INDEX.

Bettws (Cedewain), 38 ; Garmon,
322 ; Mountain (Carm.), 2 ;
(y Coed), 185, 192-3
Beuno, St., 231, 323-5
Beynon, Mr., Vicar of LlandeUo,
2, 4, 10
Bingley, W., 163
Bird cherries, 24
Bird Rock, 108, 110-11
Bishop's Castle, 33 ; Moat, 34
Black Fray, the, 288
BlxckhaU (Kerry), 34
Blaen Edw, 21
" Blodau " (John Lloyd), 141
Bodelwyddan, 145-6, 152, 288
Bodeon, 225, 269-70
Bodewvr, 261
Bodfach, 38
Bodfan, St., 313, 316
Bodfari, 140-1, 153
Bodorgan, 274
Bodvean, 47, 49
Bodvel, 225
BodveUs, the, 229, 263-4
Bodwigan, 273
Bodwrog, 273
Bodychen, 333
Bodysgallan, 199-200, 244-5
Bond, Sir Thos., 207
Bonfires, 331
Bonover Marsh, 275
Borthin, 342
Braich y Dinas, 204
Brampton Brian, 32
Bran, r., 15, 136
Brandon, Sir Wm., 159
Brandon HUl, 32
Brecon, 22-4
Brevinium, 32
Bridgeman, Bp. of Chester, 298
Bridgend, 355
BristDl, 93
Briton Ferry, 354
Broadway, 69
Brochwel Ysgythrog, 24
Bro Gynin, 268, 271
Bromfield Church, 31
Bronbyban, 111
Bron Danw, 254
Bronwen, 267-8
Brwynant, 13, 76-7
Brychan Brycheiniog, 2

BrynbeUa, 139, 142-3
Bryn Derw, 210; Derwen, 238;
Dinas, 80-1
Bryn Eurin, 201, 225, 243, 245, 307
Brynkir, 228
BrynUys Castle, 22
Bryn y Beddau, 336; y Ca.steU,
177-8, 333
Bryn y Clychau, 262, 265
Bryn y Cyfergyd, 124
Bryn y GefeUiau, 184-6, 191
Bryn y Groes, 22 ; y Petrual, 335
Bryn yr Eryr, 266
Bryn yr Eryr Gronwy, 124
Bryn y Voel, 189
Buckhurst, Lord, 200
Buckingham, Duke of, 251
Buckler, artist, 177
BuUth, 19-20
Bulkeleys, the, 255-6, 259, 276-306
BuU, Bp., 23
Burleigh, Lord, 28
Bwa Bach, 268
Bwlch Blaen Twrch, 12-13
Bwlch Croes lorwerth, 78
Bwlch Oerddrws, 132-3
Bwlch y Ddeufaen, 179-81, 206
Bwlch y Groes, 88-9
Bwlch y Rhiwgyr, 118

Cader Idris, 93-4, 106, 108, 128
Cadfan, St., his Grave, 121 ; his
WeU, 53, 60, 110
Cadnant, 298
Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, 127
Cae Brvn Dadleu, 260-1
Cae Nest, 99
Caer Arianrhod, 324, 326
Caerbiris, 20
CaeroeUi, 261
Caer Cerwyni, 344
Caer Collen, 19
Caergai, 41
Cae'r Goeten, 253
Caer Gyffin, 2(1:;
Caer h6n, 183
Caer leb, 261
Cae'r Orseddau, 262
Cae'r pridd coch, 178
Caer Rhun, 175, 177-8, 185,311
Caersws, 35-7

INDEX.

359

'Caerwys, 140-1
Caerynwch, 93, 112
Caesar, Dr. Thos., 278
iCaethle, 53
Caffo's WeU, St., 271
Cain, r., 128
Caio, 13, 76, 342-3
Calvinistic Methodists, 42, 89-91
Canologion, 328
Canonici de Glannauch, 258
Cantref y Gwaelod, 96, 98, 100, 326
Capel Beuno, 231
Capel Byrwig, 339
Capel Curig, 184, 187, 319-20
Capel Cynnor, 339
Capel Cynog, 341
Capel Duddgen, 3
Capel Gwenlais, 337
Capel GwenlUw, 339
Capel Gwrtheyrn, 100
Capel Gwynen, 327
Capel Nonni, 346
Capel Odo, 329
Capel Sant y Rok, 349
Caractacus, 31-2
Carausius, 264
Carbery, Lord, 3
Cardiganshire, new map of, 14
Carmarthen, 1, 4-5, 340 ; Priory, 4
Carnarvon, 321 ; Castle, 218-20
Carndochan, 42, 91
Cam Madryn, 225-6, 235
Carnedd Llewelyn, 183
Carneddau Hengwm, 119
Carol, Christmas, by John Lloyd,
282-4
Carreg Kennan (Cennen) Castle,
57-9
Carreg Levan, 64
Carreg Pumsant, 76
Carreg y big, 188
Carreg y Gwalch, 172
CasteU Caer Lleion, 202
CasteU Cidwm, 220
CasteU Deli, 333
Castell Dinas Bran, 334
CasteU Gorvod, 65
CasteU Gwithped, 1
Castell Gwrtheyrn, 9
Castell Henfryn, 346
CasteU Idris, 261
CasteU Maelgwn, 177-8

Castellmarch, 251, 280, 330
Castell Meurig Coch, 342
Castell Priddlyd, 70
Castell Prysor, 43
Castell y Vaerdre, 199
Castleton East Orchard, 347
CaswaUon Lawhir, 272, 308-9
Caswennan, 329
Catherine of Berain, 147-8, 171
Cav/dor, Lord, 58-9
CecUs, the, 28
Cefn (St. Asaph), 147-8
Cefn Cethin, 59
Cefn y Bedd (Brec), 18
Cefn y Gaer, 52-3, 84-5
Cefn y Van, 228
CeUwart, 327
Cell y Dewiniaid, 221
Celynin, 62, 105, 108, 333
Cemes, 86, 350
Cenarth, 341
Cennen, r., 58
Cerrig Ceinwen, 276
Cerrig Gwyddyl Wood, 304
Cerrig y Drudion, 335
Cerrig y Gwyddel, 308
Cerwyn Pumsant, 342
Cesyg Aled, 335
Ceubren yr EUyU, 127, 244
Charies, Thos., 90
Cheadle, Dr. Rowland, 284-6, 300
Cheney, Sir John, 159
Cherokee Country Squire, old, 122
Chester Cathedral, 178
Chwaen Bach, 273
CUgwyn, 73-4, 138
CUmin Droed Ddu, his epithet, 323
CUsant, 75
CUycwm, 67, 343-4
Cistvaen, use of, 119
Civil Wars, the, 155-6, 275, 296
Clenennau, 228
Clettwr, r., 8
Clos y Llechau, 22
Clough, Sir Richard, 141-2
Clwyd, Vale of, 138
Clynhir, 60, 337
Clynnog, 231, 253, 324^6
Cnicht, 223
Coch-wiUan, 216, 314
Coed Alun, 220, 323
Coed Cadw, 304

360

INDEX.

Coed Gronw, 26
Coed Helen, 220, 249
Coed Mawr, 65, 247
Coed y Marchog, 339
Coelcerth, 331
Coetane Arthur, 343
Goeten Arthur, 333-4, 344
Coetmor, 238 ; Howel, 162-3, 167,
171, 173
Coffor Garreg = Cistvaen, 346
Coins, 2-3, 41, 53, 62, 200, 264, 268
Col Hugh, 347
CoUwvn ap Tangno, 228
Conovium, 177, 179, 182
Conway, To-wn, Castle, and Church,
167, 173, 183, 193-6, 203,
243, 245, 311 ; Abbev, 163,
165, 196, 305; Abbot of,
160; River, 158, 174-6;
mussels found in, 176
Copper, 121, 232
Corbet, Mr., .53, 108-11, 121, 125
Cornish adventurers, 223
Cornu Ammonis, 262
Cornwallis, Miss Letitia, 69
Cors Dygai, 317
Corsygedol, 47, 51, 96-102, 104^-5
Cors yr Eira, 273
Cothi, r., 13, 67-8, 79, 342
Cotton, Mr. (Dean), 237
Coulston, 348
Court Derilys, 65
Court Llechryd, 18
Cox's Salthouse, Mr., 349
Coxwell HUl, 32
Coytmore, Mr., 46-7
Coyty, 347
Cradock, Lord of Nangle and
Newton, 3
Craig Cwm Gorlech, 343
Craig y Deryn, 108, 110-1
Craig y Dinas, 97, 229
Craig y Llam, 229
Creden HUl, 29
Cregrina, 21
Creigiau Glyn Diffwys, 335
Cremlyn Mynach, 263, 305
Creuddyn, 183, 203, 243, 307-11
Crewerion (Corwrion), 241-2
Criccieth, 46, 99-100, 224-5, 326
Crickhowel, 25-7
Cristiolus, St., 317

Croes Asc-wrn, 1
Croes Ceiliog, 1
Croes Elen, 346
Crogen, 123
Cromlech, use of, 119
CromweU, Oliver, 3, 152, 299, 318
Cross Foxes, 87
Crucifixion, the, 29
Crug, 61
Crug Gynon Lake, 107
Crug Howel, 28
Crug Mawr yn Elved, 342
Crug y garn, 66
Crug y Wiel, 10
Crug-ie Cyscu, 343-4
Crugie Edrith, 345
Crugie ladyr, 342, 344
Cr-wvs hen Sarn Elen, 342
Cryd Tudno, 198
Cuckoo Parliament, 306
CulverweU, 347
Cunnington, Mr., 9
Cursus, Roman, 205, 265
Customs at Beaumaris, 303 ; of the
City of Hereford, ib.
Cwellyn Lake, 220
Cwm Bochlwyd, 318
Cwmbrwjmog, 322
Cwmbychan, 102-3
Cwm Clogwvn, 236
Cwm DUy, 222
Cwmdu, 27
Cwm Nant Coel, 102
Cwm Ogwen, 320
Cwrt Bryn y Beirdd, 57-8
Cwrt y Plas, 73
Cybi, St., 268, 323, 325 ; his Well,
236
Cydawell, r., 342
Cymmel, 147-8, 160-2, 173, 268
Cymmer Abbey, 96, 118, 125 ; v.
Maenan
Cymmytmaen, 328
Cynwal, Wm., 244
Cynwyl, St., 341, 343
Cynwyl Elved, 341-2
Cytiau'r Gwyddelod, 47-9, 214,
226,252-3,261,268

Dafydd ap G-wUym, 268-72, 307
Dafydd ap Owen, Bp., 144

INDEX.

361

Dafydd Ddu o Hiraddug, 143
Dafydd Nanmor, 303, 327
Danes, 152, 217, 260, 263
Danyrallt, 70-2
David, St., 7
Davies, Grono, 280-1, 285
Davies, Dr. John, 87, 176, 267
Davies, Walter, 37-9
Dee, r., 91-2, 116-17
Deganwy Castle, 198-9, 307
Deiniolen, St., 217, 321, 323
Denbigh, 138-9, 142, 163-5, 157;
Castle, 351 ; Friary, 154r-6 ;
Green, 142
Denio, 46
DerUys, 3, 66
Derwydd, 67, 69, 66
Deudraeth, 44
DevU's Bridge, 128
Dinas Bran, 134-6
Dmas Corddin, 119
, Dmas Dinlle, 324
Dinas Emrys, 221, 328
Dinas Mawddwy, 88
Dindryfal, 308
Dmllaen, 328
Dinmore, 30
Dinner at three, 91
.Dmorwig, 216-18
Din Sylwy. 332
Divine Cage, 147, 163
Diwlais, r., 339
Dolau Cothi, 13, 76
Dolbadarn Castle, 247-8, 322
Dolbenmaen, 228
DolgeUey, 94, 106, 114-16, 118
Dolwcheogryd, 94
Dolwyddelan Castle, 167, 170, 185,
188-9
Dol y cae, 112-13
Dolmelynllyn, 117
Domus Leprosorum, 242
Dore Abbey, 28-9
Dove House, N. Wales model, 249
Dovey, r., 83-6, 88
Drwsynant, 91-2
Du Buisson, Mr., 60
Dutch clover, 125 ; inscription, 72
Dwgan, Bedd, 230
Di^gyfylohi, 203
Dwynwen. St.. 269-70
Dyfncg's WeU, St., 157

Dyfrdwy, r., 116
Dyfry, r., 15
Dynevor, 2, 61-2 ; Lord, 268
Dysynni, r., 62-3, 108-10, 112, 120
Eagles on turrets at Carnarvon, 321
Echo at Dynevor, 62
Ednyfed Fychan. 201, 243, 245, 311
Edward I, 165-6, 232-3 ; at Car
narvon, 218, 321
Edwards, old Robert, the guide,.
106-7
Edwinsford, 54, 56, 71
Eglwys Abbot du, 350
Eglwyseg, 134
Eglwysfach, 164
Eglwys Rhos, 198, 271, 307-8
Egrin, 108-9, 119-20
Egwad, St., 77
Egypt, 55
Eifionydd, 169
Eifl, Yr, 225, 229, 325
Einion ap Gwalchmai, 306
Eisteddfa Egwad, 77
Elaeth, St., 323, 332
Eleanor, Queen, 78, 194
Elernion, 253
Elian, St., 332 ; grant to, 309-10 ^
his WeU, 311
Eliseg, PUlar of, 134, 137
Elizabeth, Queen, 176
Ellis, Hugh, harper, 63
Elwy, r., 153
Eneinfa, in the Annell, 343
Erwgaer, 178-9
Ethelbert's Well, St., 30
Eure, Lord, 174
Evan the Fisherman, 129
Evan ap Robert ap Thomas, 169
Evans, Daniel, the Sequestrator, 12
Ewenny, 348
Ewyas Harold, 29
Ewybr Nant, 192
Excavations : —
Caio, carneddau on way to, 75-6
Crickhowel, cromlech near, 25-6
Cunnington, Mr., and, 9
Llanfynydd, 56-6
Rhos y Gad, 265
Talgarth, 23
Van of Llaneadwrn, 71
Ystradffin, 68

:362

INDEX.

Farming, English, 9
Fast Day, 24
Fellowes, Captain, 142
Fferws, r., 337
Ffinan, St., 332
Ffordd Elen, 44
Ffrwd Water, 3
Ffynnon Cegin Arthur, 320
„ Druidion, 65
Elen, 189
Fair (Cefn), 147
Gattwg, 346
,, Geitho, 11
Gybi, 268
Ivan, 348
Pen Syr Rhys, 352
Seiriol, 268
„ Tabitha (Dybie), 60
„ y Green, 347
Fish, tithe of, 336
Fishery season, prayers at, 316
Fishguard, 93, 316
Fitz- Alans, the, 64
Flintshire, 175, 198
Foelallt, 7
Foley, Admiral, 64, 62-3, 70, 72
Font at Bedd Gelert, 223
Forest yr Esgob, 66
Fosterage, 166, 169-70
Francis, St.. and Franciscans, 304-5
Froissart, 200, 244
Frowde, Mr., Vicar of Bishop's
Castle, 33, 36, 38
Funerals, handbell at, 72-3

Gaer, station, 23—4
Galltfaenan, 147, 153
Garn Bica, 336-7, 346
Garth Allt Maenan, 147
Garth Angharad, 105
Garth Maelog, 175
Gavelkind, 118
Geirn, 333
Gell, Admiral, 26-7
Gelligaer, 346
Gelli'r Mynach, 319
Geoffrey of Monmouth, 200
George, St., 152
Geraint ap Erbin, 272
Gesailgyfarch, 169
Gibson's " Camden," 32, 205

Gildas, 308
GUer, 161
GUeston, 348
Giraldus, 34, 47-8
Glain neidr, 141
Glan Bala, 248
Glanbran, 16
Glan Llugwy, 186
Glanse-vin, 71, 73-4
Glan Tanat, 81
GlasaUt, 73
Glascoed (Cam.), 249
Glascwm, 21
Glaslyn, r., 221
Glisseg (Glwyseg) Rooks, 134, 136-7
Gloddaeth, 198, 200, 243-5, 257,
Oil Qlg
Glyn (Angl.), 266-7 ; (Mer.), 126-7
Glynllifon, 232, 252, 323-4
Goats, 92 ; sculptured, 63, 73
Goblin's Tower, 139
Gogarth, 197, 199, 244-6
Gogovau, 67, 76, 343
Gold, ornaments, 68 ; mines and
ornaments at Pumsant, 76 ;
chain, 141 ; ingot, 41, 233 ;
rings, 242 ; torque at Glod
daeth, 200, 244
Golden Grove, 3, 57 ; MUe, 348
Goodman, Godfrey, 247
Gorddinog, 207, 302
Goredgit, at Garth, 327
Gorffrydau Caswennan, 329
Gorlan (Girlan) Diboeth, 250
Gorsedd, 154, 181, 262
Govan's Stone, St., 238
Grant, Moses, 114
Greek inscription, 124
Green Castle, 1
Gresham, Sir Thos., 141-2
Griffith, Piers, 216, 242, 315
Griffith, Sir Wm., 209
Griffiths, Hugh and Mrs., of Caerhun,
177-8, 202
Gruffydd ap Adda, 121
Gruffydd ap Cynan, 169, 320
Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch, 193
Gruffydd, Owen, bard, 325
Grwyne Fechan. r., 25
Gunpowder Plot, 177
Gwaenynog, 153
Gwaredog, 274, 323

INDEX*

363

Gwenffrwd, r., 66
Gwenlais, 1-., 60-1, 337
Gwenninog uch Cerdin, 9
Gwernyfed Park, 22
Gwerydd ap Rhys Goch, 261, 288,
350
Gwili, r., 338, 342 ; Fawr, a giant,
336
Gwilym Ddu, 252
Gwyddelan, St., 189
G-wyddelod, meaning of, 49
Gwyddfan, r., 337
Gwyddfarch, St., 37
Gwvdir, 161-5, 168. 171-6, 185,189 ;
Upper, 165, 168, 173 ; Chapel,
162^ ; Lord, 172, 188
Gwynfai, 75
Gwynfryn, 46, 129, 224, 227-8, 234,
251-4
Gwynfynydd, 37
Gwynionydd, 9
Gwynne, Mr., of Glanbian, 63.
Gwyrfai, r., 221

Hafod Celyn, 206 ; Lwvfog, 223-3,
327; y Maidd," 335; Ys
pytty, 124
Hafotty, 107, 223
Harlech, 50, 103-5, 129, 200, 326
Harper Morris, 69
Harpsichord, 126
Haverfordwest, St. Mary's, 195
Hawarden, 352
Hay, The, 21-2
Heatons, the, 148
Helig ap Glanog, 258, 301-2, 313-14
Henblas, 267
Hendre, 46, 52; Bodfan, 313;
Forion, 118; Rhys Gethin,
185, 189,200; Scethin, 184
Henffordd, 208
Hengwm, 118-19
Hengwrt, and its MSS., 93-5, 125
Henllan (Denb.), 153
Henllys, 288
Henry VIL 3
Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, 280
Hereford, 29-30 ; Customs of, 303
High Mead, 10
Hilary (= EUan), St., 309-11
Hurfaen Gwydd og, 343

Hirlas at Penrhyn, 315 ; of Owen
CyfeUiog, ib.
Hoare, Sir Richard Colt, his views
expressed, 27, 29, 32, 90-1,
137, 158, 190, 197
Holland, 142
Holmes, Randolph, 259
Holywell, 61
Hookes of Conway, 195-6
Hopton Castle, 33
Horace, 275, 284
Houses, not lofted, 218 ; old, en
larging of, 67
Howel ap E'mion Llygliw, 136
Howel ap Evan, outlaw, 185, 189
Howel Dda, inn, 92
Howell, James, 64
Hugh Lupus, 209-10, 256
Hughes, David, founder of Beau
maris School, 306
Huw Belisa, 322
Huwcyn Sion y Canu, 322
Hwch, r., 247
Hwch ddu gwta, 331
Hwyaid Niwb-wrch, 270
Hydrophobia, 67
Hywel ap Owen Gwynedd, 272
Hywel Selef, 127
Hywel y FwyaU, Sir, 326

larddur, 314
Idio Wyllt, 344
Idwal, of Cwm Idwal, 318
Idwal Iwrch, 175
lestyn, St., 263
Ilex, large, 121
Inscription, Church, 99
Inscriptions at : —
Bmlth, 19
Cefn Amwlch (now), 329
CeUwart (Llanaber), 327
Dore Abbey, 28
Llanddewi Brefi, 7
Llanfair ar y Bryn, 14, 62
Llanfihangel Eroth, 10
Llanio, 6
Llanwrthwl, 13
Maentwrog, 45
Tregaron, 6-7
Tycoch, 214-5
Tyddyn Holland, 198

364

INDEX.

Inscriptions, Latinization of Welsh
names in, 115
lorwerth ap larddur, 314
lorwerth Drwyndwn, 78, 188
Irvon, r., 17
Isgaer, 250
Ishaw, St., 26
Ithon, station on, 18-19

.lansen. 261
Jesse window, 155
Jews, 303, 352
Joan, Princess, 256, 276, 305
John, King, 205
John o' Neal's Castle, 348
Johnes of Dolau Cothi, 76
Johnes of Hafod, 6
Jones, Inigo, 162, 166-7
Jones, Theo , 22-7
Jones, Sir Wm., 251,273
Julitta, St., 319
Junot, surrender of, 146, 155
Kenchester, 29
Kerry, 34-5
Kidwelly, 1
Kilpeck, 28-9
Kinmel, v. Cymmel
Kirkwall, Lord, 139^0, 197
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem,
160

Lac Lunse, 67
Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, 138, 165
Lady of the Van Lake, 74
Laleston, 355
Lamb, figure of, 2
Lampeter, 6-7, 10-12
Lancaster, House of, 169
Las Ynys, 99
Lavan Sands 314, 326
" LazariUo de Terms," Eng. trans.
of, 306
Legio Secunda, 2, 14, 24
Leicester, Earl of, 138-9, 155
Leland, 59, 186
Lenterden (Leintwardine), 30-2
Leominster, 30
Lhuyd, Edward, 55, 60-1, 63, 70,
132,204,231,265,350

"Lhuydiana," 332-49
Lintern, 7
London, its pavement, 234
Loughor (Leucarum), 1
Loughor, r., and its source, 57, 59-
60, 337
Love-in-idleness, 21
Loventium, 6, 8, 76
Lucy, Bp., 23
Ludlow, 30-1 ; L. vach, 16
Lunaticks Club, 92
Lymore Park, 34
Lysons, Mr., 43, 178
Lyttelton, George, Lord, 250
Llafar, r., 130
Llam y Carw, 309 ; yr Iwrch, 82
Llanaber, 51, 96
Llanaelhaiarn, 230, 325
LlanaUgo, 263-4
Llanarthney, 354
Llanbeblig. 220, 321
Llanbedr (Brec), 24-8 ; (Mer.)
98-9, 102
Llanbedr Goch, 261, 266-6, 349
Llanbedrog, 331
Llanberis, 247, 351
Llandaff, Book of, 93, 95
Llandanwg, 98-100
Llanddeiniolen, 216-7, 249, 321
Llanddeusant (Angl.), 273 ; (Carm.),
73, 353
Llandde-wi Brefi, 7
Llanddoged, 335
Llanddona, 260, 271-2
Llanddwyn-wen, 269-70
Llanddwywe, 61, 96-7, 100-2
Llanddyfnan, 262
Llandebie, 66, 59-61, 336-7
Llandec-wyn, 50
Llandegai, 208, 214, 238, 242-3, 256,
276, 317
Llandegfan, 276, 281
Llandeilo (Fawr), 1, 4
Llandingad, 14-16, 345
Llandocho, 347
Llandovery, 13-16
Llandrillo '(yn Rhos), 201, 245
Llandrmdod WeUs, 19, 90
Llandudno, 197-8
Llandudwg, 348
Llandwrog, 323, 351
Llandyfaen, 60, 337

INDEX.

365

Llandyfeisant, 2
Llandyfrydog, 265, 268
Llandyri, 339
Llandyssul, 9
Llanedwen, 332
Llanegryn, 108
Llanegwad, 61
Llanegwest, 136-7
UaneUian, 309, 332
Uanelaeth, 332
Uanelian, 272, 335
LlaneUtyd, 96, 123-4
Uanelly, 338-9
Llanelwedd, 20
Llanendd-wyn, 97, 100
Llanerchymedd, 273
Llanfachraith, 125
Llanfaes (Angl.), 209, 216, 256,
268-9, 271, 276, 304-5;
(Glam.), 347
Llanfaglan, 323
Llanfair (Harlech), 51
Llanfair ar y Bryn, 2, 14-16,
62
Llanfair Bettws Geraint, 272
Llanfair Caereinion, 37
Llanfair Clydogau, 7
Llanfairfechan, 311
Llanfairisgaer, 250-1 , 255
Llanfallen, 64
Llanfihangel Eroth (lorwerth), 10,
341
Llanfihangel y Com, 346
Llanfihangel ym Mhenrhos, 272
Llanfrynach, 352
LlanfylUn, 38
Llanfynydd, 55, 77
Llangadog, 70-5, 344
Llangadwaladr, 333
Llangaffo, 271
Llangathen, 207
Llangattwg, 354
Llanged-wyn, 81
Llangefni, 332
Llangoed, 305
Llangollen, 134-6
Llangwyfan, 274
Llangybi, 236, 325
Llangyndejrrn, 3-4
Llangynog, 40-1, 78-9
Llangystennin, 201-2
Llanidan, 271

Llaniestyn (Angl.), 263, 304 ; (Cam.),
334
Llanio, 6-8
Llanllwchaiarn, 36
Llanllwni. 346
Llanllyfni, 324
Llannefydd, 336
Llannerch Park, 143
Llannerch y Morwynion, 343
Llannon, 338
Llan Pumsant, 342
Llanrhaiadr Dyffryn Clwyd, 155-7 ;
LI. ym Mochnant, 79-80
Llanrug, 247, 250, 322
Llanrwst, 161-7, 195, 305, 313, 352
Llansadwrn (Angl.), 266 ; (Carm.),
68, 70-3, 344, 353
Llansannan, 351
Llansantffraid Glyn Ceiriog, 134
Llansawel, 54, 343
Llanstephan Castle, 1
Llantwit Major, 347-8
Llanuwchllyn, 42, 129-30
Llanwnda, 323
Llanwnen, 8
Llanwrda, 69, 73, 344, 353
Llan-svrin, 86
Llanwrthwl, 13, 342
Llanwrtyd, 17
Llanybyddar, 345
LlanycU, 42-3, 130
Llanycrwys, 13-14, 343^
Llanymawddwy, 88
Llanystumdwy, 46, 50, 325
Llawrudd, 169
Llech Edris, 43
Llech Gynfarwy, 332-3
Llech y FUast, 342
Llech y Gwyr, 320
Lleidr Llandyfrydog, 268
Lletty Fadog, 197
Llewelyn ap Grufiydd (the Last
Prince), 18, 20, 141
Llewelyn ap Gwilym ap Llewelyn,
343
Llewelyn ap lorwerth (the Great),
163, 165, 205, 305, 314
Lleweni, 139-40, 142, 153, 200
Llewesog, 156
Lleyn, 328
Llienog, 256-7
Llith faen, 67

366

INDEX.

Lliw, r., 91, 130
Uoce Afallon, 251
Lloyd, Admiral, 71
Lloyd, Sir Evan, of Bodidrist, 101
Lloyd, Evan, of Corsygedol, 101
Lloyd, Evan, author of " The Power
of the Pen," 42-3, 92
Lloyd (Llwyd), Morgan, 301
Lloyd, Morris, the thresher, 275
Llugwy, 186, 190-1, 264
Llwohwr, V. Loughor
Llwybr Elen, 131-2
Llwyd, Edward, v. Lh-jyd
Llwyd, Sir Griffith. 217-18, 243
Llwyd, Hugh, of C'ynwal, 1 24
Llwyd, Humphrey, 116
Llwyn, 38-9
Ll-wyngwair, 65
Llw3m y brain, 14
Llwyn y ffortun, 2, 4
Llwyn y wermwd, 73-4
U-svynau Brys, 335
Llwyth Forgan, 344
" Llyfr Du o Gaerfyrddin," 95
Llygad y Byd, 57
Llyn Badarn, 345
Llyn Berwyn, 67
Llyn Cae, 93-4, 112-13
Llyn Dinas, 221
Llyn Dulyn, 98
Llyn Gwernant, 94
Llyn Gwynen, 222, 327, 331
Llyn Irddin, 97-8
Llyn Llech Owen, 61, 340
Llyn Lloedd, 84
Llyn Tecwyn, 50, 126-7
Llyn Tegid, v. Bala
Llyn y Cwn, 318
Llyn y Gader, 94
Llyn y Goron, 274
Llys Bradwen, 107
Llys Brychan, 2, 68-9, 72
Llys CaswaUon, 273, 309
Llys Dinorwig, 217
Llys HeUg, 313-14
Llys Osbwrn, 100

"Mabinogion," the, 267
Machynlleth, 83-5
Maddocks, Mr., and his Embank
ment, 45, 49, 117-18,224

Madoc ap larddur, 314
Madoc ap lorwerth ap Gwrgeneu,
164
Madoc ap Owen Gwynedd, 222
Madoc Gloddaeth, 243-4
Madryn, 48-9, 226, 235
Maelgwn Gwynedd, 201, 271, 307
Maelog Crwm, 175
Maenan, 163-6, 168 ; v. Cymmer
Abbey
Maen Cilan, 70
Maendu yr Arddu, 322
Maen Gorsedd, 226-7
Maen Levan, 64
Maen Melyn yn Lleyn, 329
Maen Morddwyd, 271
Maen Sigl, 197-8
Maentwrog, 43, 45
Maenwyn, 323
Maen y Campiau, 205
Maen y Prenfol, 343
Maen yr Heusor, 351
Maes Llanwrthwl, 68
Maes Ma-wr, 36
Maes Mynan, 140-1 *•
Maes Seifion, 266
Maesy Llan, 82
Maes y Llechau, 64
Maes y Neuadd, 50, 104
Magnse, 29
Mainwaring, Bp., 23
Mallwyd, 86-8
Mansel, Sir Edward, 339, 347
Map of Cardiganshire, new, 14
Marble of Anglesey, 213
Marches, Court of, 16
Margam, 355
Mark's Day, St., 270
Mariais, ...336-7
Masonrv, 94, 129
Mathafarn, 84, 86 ; Eithaf, 272 ;
Wion, 349
Mathrafal, 37
Maud Walby, 22
Maw, Mawddach, r., 95, 128
May Eve, 331
Meddygon Myddfai, 64, 73-4
Mediolanum, 38^0, 80-1
Meidrym, 65, 341
Meifod, 37-8
Meredydd ap Evan, 160, 162-3,
167, 169-70, 176, 185, 188-9'

INDEX.

367

Merioneth, architecture, and charac
teristic, 107, 129
Merlin, 221
Merthyr, 65 ; Mawr, 349 ; Tydvael
346
Meugan's, St., Chapel, and HUl, 276
Meyricks, the, of Bodorgan, 266,
274
Michael's Chapel, St., on the
Skirrid, 29; WeU at
Caerwys, 141
Middleton, Sir Thomas, 172
Middleton HaU, 56, 354
Mile, Welsh, 8
MUlfield, 11-3
MUliaries, 49, 69, 214
Milltir Fain, 2 ; Gerrig, 40, 78
Mineral Wells, BuUth, 20; Llan
drindod, 18 ; Llanwrtyd, 17
Mochros, 100
Moel Carn Giwch, 228 ; EUio, 221 ;
Orthrwm, 127 ; Siabod, 186,
190-1 ; y Park, 140-1
Monmouth, Duke of, 261
Monuments, value of, 156
Mordeym, St., 336
Morfa DinUe, 324 ; Nevin, 334
Morfydd, 268, 270
Morgan ap Cradoc ap lestyn, 354
Mortals, r., 338-9
Morris Brothers, the, 272-3
Mostyn, 200, 244
MSS., Welsh, 94-5, 176, 200, 244,
251, 310
Muriau GwUym Ddu, 252
Mussels, Conway, 176
Myddfai, 64, 73, 345
Myddynfych, 336
Myfanwy Fychan, 136
%ynydd Allt Goch, 11 ; Coesau
\ Cawr, 339; Mawr, 336-7

N;.ngle, 3
Nanhwynen, 221-2
"" Nannau, 94, 115, 127-8, 131
Nantanog, 306
Nant Conwy, 352 ; Ffrancon, 319
Nantglyn, 336
Nant Gwrtheyrn, 48, 228-9 ; MiU,
220-1
NantUe, 262; Llyniau N., 232-3,
236

Nant y Bai, 68 ; y Piod, 34 ; yr
Haiarn, 185
Narberth 90
Neath, and Abbey, 354^6
Nevin, 47-8, 229
Newborough, 270, 350; Lord, 47,
166, 325, 330
Newton in Roos, 3 ; Nottage, 348
Newtown (Mont.), 33-6; HaU, 35 ;
(Dynevor), 62
Nicholas, St., Chapels and Well,
276, 340
Nile, r., 117, 174
Nonjuror, 77
Oakley, Mr., of Tanybwlch, 43-4,
60, 95 (Mrs. 0.)
Oakley Park, 31
Offa's Dyke, 34
Ogo FUan, 328
Ogwen, River, 187, 210-11, 215,
237-9, 242; Lake, 210;
Chapel, 209, 216-16, 315-16
Oldcastle Chapel, 347
Olwen, 11
Olwent, Olwyn, 8, 11
Orford, Lord, 162-3 ; 166
Organ, hand, 195
Orielton, 262
Orme's Head, 197
Ormsby, Miss, 126, 129
Osbwrn Wyddel, 100, 118, 126
Ostorius, 31
Ousely, SirWm., 26-7
Owen, George, 172
Owen, Gronwy, 251
Owen, Sir John, 228, 351
Owen, John, the epigrammatist, 263
Owen, Bp. Morgan, 73
Owen, Nicholas, 260-2, 267
Owen, Wm. (Dr. W. O. P.ughe),
118-20, 138-9, 153-4
Owen Glyndwr, 83, 127, 168, 320,
322, 343, 362
Owen Goch, 248
Owen Gwynedd, 152, 163, 168,
212, 226, 320
Owen Lawgoch, 61
Pabo Post Prydain, 350
Painceforts, the, 26

368

INDEX.

Palaces, Welsh Royal, 218
Pal6, 123
Pant y Brodyr, 66
Pant y cendy, 64-6
Pant ysgraphiau, 260, 255, 260
Pant y Wyddan, 336
Panton, Paul, 146, 152, 166
Paris Mountain and Mines, 264-5,
292
Park y Meirch, 152
Parkiau, 263
Patricio, 26, 164
Patrick, St., 323
Payne, Mr., Rector of Llanbedr
(Brec), 23-8, 265
Pearls, in Conway, 176 ; at
Meidrym, 341
Pembroke, 3 ; -shire, 329
Penanmaen, 167, 170, 188-9
Penboyr, 10
Penbre, 339-40
Pencader, 4-5, 342
Pencaer Helen, 182
Pencarreg, 4-5. 345
PenoeUi Castle, 24
Pencrwn, 297
Pen Domen, 81
Pengwern, 145-6, 149
Peniarth, 108, 111-2, 121
Penmachno, 192
Penmaen (Mer.), 103
Penmaen Bach, 202-3, 301-2, 313 ;
Mawr, 203-5, 301-2, 313,
325, 334
Penmon, 256-8
Penmorfa, 45
Penmynydd, 209, 256, 260, 262, 276
Pennal, 6, 85
Pennant, Thomas, 35-6, 38, 91,
97, 124, 136, 141, 146, 148,
156-7, 163, 19t. 197, 199,
203, 217, 221, 230, 260
Pennant Melangell, 41, 78
Pennoyre, 24
Penpits, 42
Penrhos, 350
Penrhyn, and Quarries, 20.8-11,
213-16, 237-42, 2762 96-8,
314-16 ; Lady, 237-42, 246
Penrhyn, in Creuddyn, 201, 311
Pentowyn, 66
Pentraeth, 272

Pentre Cwn, 63 ; Meurig, 69 ;
rianallt, 272
Pen y Ceir-eu, -i, 341-2
Pen y Gaer, 182
Penylan, 77, -wen, 342
Pen y Palmant, 153 ; yr allt, 84 ;
yr heol, 4
Pen y street, 39, 43, 131-2
Perambulation of Beaumaris, 304
Perfeddnant, 111
Peterston, 42
Peterwell, 11
Petrual, 335
" PhUosopher," the, 148
Piccyn, Y, 273
Pilgrims, 216
Pimble Mere, 130
Pint, Beddgelert, 223
Piozzi, Mrs., 142-3
PistyU (Cam.), 228, 230 ; Rhaiadr,
79, 81-2
Plas coch (Angl.), 256, 273; du,
253 ; gwyn, 260-1, 267
Plas lolyn, 158-9, 161
Plas Mawr (Conway), 196-7, 199. 219
Plas Newydd (Angl.), 255, 271;
(Denb.), 148, 153
Plas y beddau, 11
Plymouth, Lord, 141
Pont Aberglaslyn, 254
Pont Cym, 253
Pont Ffrydan, 93-4, 106
Pont Orewyn, 20
Pontruffydd, 153
Pont y Bala (Carn.), 248; y Fotty-
gwyn, 175 ; y Gwaith, 346 ;
y Pair, 183-4
Porius stone, 43, 132
Porthamal, 22, 261
PorthdinUeyn, 48, 225
Porth yr Adar, 195
Porth y Rhyd, 64, 73
Post Office, the, 251
Potatoes, the first in Lleyn, 331
Pounderiing, Sir R., 143
Powell, Vavasor, 299
Powis, Princes of, 37 ; Eari of, 33-4
PownaU, General, 205
Preseb y fuwch, 336
Price, Baron, 161
Price, Dr. Ellis, 184, 200
Price,Thomas, of Plas Io]yn,184, 2

HSfDEX.

369

Prichard, Vicar, 73
Priestholm, 268, 302, 307; John,
Prior of, 242
Pryce, of Hendre Rhys Gethin, 186,
189, 193
Pryces, of Newtown Hall, 35
Prys, Edmund, 44, 269
Pughs, of Mathafarn, 86
Puleston, Roger de, 321
Pulpit, stone, 4
Pumsant, 76
PwUheli, 46-9, 224-5, 234-5
PwU Uffern 67-8
Pyle, 355

Querns in Cytiau, 268
Quick and Dead, 347

Raspe, the mineralogist, 76
Ravens, the three, 15
Restitutus, Bp., 165
Reubens, 261
Reynold's Church, 348
Rhaiadr y Ceunant Mawr, 247-8;
yr Abad, 66 ; y Wennol,
172, 184-5, 190
Rhedyw, St., 324
Rhiwlas, 116, 261
Rhos Ddiarbed, 36; Fair, 360;
Fawr, 265, 272 ; Hir, 270 ;
y Gad, 262, 265-6
Rhuddlan, 145-6, 149-50, 152
Rhun ap Maelgwn Gwynedd, 177,
179
Rhyd Llanfair, 161
Rhyd Mary benwen, 273 ; y
Genfigen, 262
Rhyd y Gors Castle, 1,3
Rhyferthwy Coch Mawr, and R.
yr Adar, 333
Rhys ap Tewdwr, 18, 352
Rhys ap Thomas, Sir, 270
Rhys Fawr ap Meredydd, 158-9,
161
Rhys Gethin, 185, 189
Rhys Goch o Eryri, 168, 317, 328
Richards, Counsellor, 120
Robert ap Rhys Fawr, 159
Robert ap Thomas ap Rhodri, 168-9
Robin Ddu, 328

Rodney's PUlar, 134
Roman Catholics, 29
Romans at Gogofau, 76 ; invade
Anglesey, 250, 255
Rood Lofts, 26, 31, 36
Roses, Wars of, 169
Rowland, David, trans, of "Lazar-
Ulo de Tormes," 306
Rowlands, Henry, 261
Ruthin, 138 ; Volunteers, 42

Salisbury, 256
Salthouse, Mr. Cox's, 349
Sanctuary for Cattle, 82
Sanders's Cross, 346
Sarn, a paved road, Roman, 1, 51
Sarn Badrig, 98, 100
Sarn Helen (Elen), 13, 126, 188-9,
208
Sam HoUand, 198
Sawdde, r., 75, 353
Scethin, r., 97-8
School, endowed, at Llanfynydd,
77 ; at Llanwrda, 69-70
Scythes placed in chimneys, 67
Segontium, 250-1
Seint, r., 246-8
Seiriol, St., Ynys, and Chapel, 268,
302
Selden, 95
Sian y Blawd Ceirch, 273
Sirigi, 308
Sitsyllts, the, 28
Skirrid, the, 29
Sleekerated, 109
Smith, Speaker, 317
Smith, Mr. Ashton, 248-9
Smuggling, 230
Snowdon, 190, 236-7, 327
Somerset, Duke of, 338-9
Spa Fields, 90
Spain, King of, 122
SpeculsB, 1, 12
Spread Eagles, famUy bearing, 87
Spur, old, at St. George, 152
St. Asaph, 143-6, 151 ; Bp. of, 34
St. Athan's, 347
St. Clears, 4, 65
St. David's, 248 ; Bp. of, 34
St. George, 150-3
St. Tudwal's, 229, 330, 334
2b

370

INDEX.

Stalls, grotesque carving on, 84
Statius's " Thebaid," 244
Steele, Sir Richard and Lady, 3
Stepney, Sir J. and Lady, 57, 69
Stillyard, 49
Stockings, great merchant of, 123 ';
sale of, at Llanrwst, 313
Stone, holed, 70
Stonehenge, 266
Strata Florida, 8, 165
Submerged town under Llyn
Tecwyn, 50
Swan Pool, 340
Symmons, Dr., 63-4

Tacitus, 32-3, 213
Taihirion Rhos, 8
Tailor, a, ninth part of a man, 82
Talar y Twysog, 274
Talgarth (Mont.), 86
Talhenbont, 100
Taliaris, 64-5, 102
Taliessin, 308, 311-13
Talley (Tal y Llychau) and Abbey,
54, 71-2, 339, 344, 363
Talycafn, 153, 177, 245
Talyllyn, 112-13, 120, 125
Tanat, r., 79, 81
Tanybwlch, 43, 50, 129
Tarpeian Rock, 229
Tegai, St. 208, 243, 317
TeUo, St., 95
Teisen Aberffraw, 274
Tenby pickled oysters, 10
ThelwaU, Mr., 264
Thimbleby, Sir R., 99
Thomas, David (Dafydd Ddu Eryri),
261-2
Thomas, Sir Wm., 207
Three Grains Lake, 120, 126
Thwaytes, Wm., 279
Tomen Rhyd Owen, 9
Tomen y Mur, 43-4, 93, 124, 131
Tournament at Nevin, 47
Tower, licence to buUd, 241-2
Towy Castle, 1
Towyn, 62-3, 110, 121-2
Traeth Mawr, 45, 233-4, 303
Trawsfyndd, 43, 117, 264
Treoastell (Angl.), 257
Tref Bannau, 64

Tref coch yn Neheubarth, 68
Trefdraeth, 306
Trefeilir, 306
Tref Goch =Llanfair ar y Bryn, 15
Tref Maelgwn G-wynedd, 177
Tref riw, 174-6
Tref y Caerau, 28
Tregaian, 99
Tregaron, 6-7
Trelech, 342
Tremadock, and embankment, 123,
223-4, 233-4, 254
Tremeirchion, 140, 143
Trenewydd (Djoievor), 62
Tre'r Cawri ( =Ceiri), 228, 230
Tretower Castle, 27
Trevor (Angl.), 262-3 : Sir Davydd,
321
Trichrug, 344
TrUlo's Chapel and Well, St., 201,
243
Trimsarn, 40, 78, 339
Trout in TalyUyn Lake, 120
Tryfan, 186-7, 319
Tucker, Dean, 108
Tudor ap Gronw, 212, 257
Turf, and harvest of, 77-8
Twm Sion Catty's Cave, 66, 68
Twrog, St., and Maen, 45, 323
Tycoch, 214-16
Tydu, 247
Tyddyn du, 44; HoUand, 198;
Madoc Goch, 227 ; Tudur,
252
Tygwyn, 106
Ty Mawr (Conway), v. Plas Ma-wr
Tyn Sylwy, 266
Tyn y daU, 336
TyssUio, St., 37
Tythegston, 348

Uchtryd, Castle of, 95, 125
Uxbridge, Eari of, 329

VachddeUiog, 40-2, 78, 90-1, 130,
168
Vaenol, 109, 149, 317
VaUe Crucis, 136-7
Van, of Llansadwrn, 70-1 ; Lake of,
57,74

INDEX.

371

Vanner Abbey, v. Cymmer Abbey
Varis, 140-1, 163-4, 178
Vaughan, Sir Harry, 69-60, 66
Vaughan, Sir John, 67, 65
Vaughan, Sir Robert, 92-3, 113,
127, 244, 352
Vaughan, Robert, the antiquary,
94, 164, 200
Vaughans, of Caergai, 41 ; of Cor
sygedol, 100-2
Veg fawr, at Dinas Mawddwy, 88
Velenrhyd, 50
Via Flandrica, 10
View of Prank Pledge, 27
Voelas, 335
Vortigem, 9, 221, 299-30

Walcot Park, 33
Watling Street, 32
Waun Ifor, 10 ; Llefeni, 132
Wern Graig, 113 ; yMacwy, 9
Whitchurch, 155
Whitland, 4
Wickwear, 147-8
Wigmore Abbey, 32
WUcock Mawddwy, old, 88
WUUams, Sir David, of Gwernyfed,
22
WUUams, EUezer, 8-12
WUUams, Sir James, 4
WUUams, Archbp. John, 195, 208,
241-3, 296-8, 315, 318
WUUams, Sir John, of Bodelwyddan,
144, 146-9
WUUams, Dr. Thomas, 176-7
WUUams, Sir Wm., of Vaenol, 317

Williams, Wm., of Llandegai, 216,
220; his MSS., 269-75: SOT-
SI
WUson, Richard, painter, 232
WUtshire, 110
Wiston Castle, 6
Wolsey, Cardinal, 159
Worthington, Dr., 80; Mr., 239,
245-6
Wyatt, Mr., 237-8, 240, 246-7
Wygfair, 147-8
Wylfa, Yr, 302
Wynn, Sir John, 159-60, 162-3,
166-8, 171-4, 176-7, 186,
199
Wynn, Morris, 171
Wynn, Nanney, 63
Wynn, Sir Richard, 163, 172
Wynn, Sir W. W., 81, 83-4, 86-7,
172
Wynne, Ellis, 99-100
Wynnstay, 116, 172

Yew trees, why planted, 281
Ynys Cyftor, 60 ; Gwrtheyrn, 100
Ynys y Maengwyn, 62, 109, 112,
120-1, 126
Yorath, 10
York, House of, 169
Ysbur, 227-8
Yspytty Ifan, 158-61
Ystrad, 2, 14, 221
Ystradffin, and Chapel, 66-8
Ystrad MarcheU, 83
Ystum Cegid, 227-8, 263 ; Colwyn,
123

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