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L I f"" iie/o^)^ding^fa.Co^et'E^lfi^^C^3'^^l
Gift of
John Whitney Avery, Y '93
1927

0

ORIENTAL

WESTERN SIBERIA

A NARRATIVE OJ

3tkn §tm' ^qhx'diam anb JbWitm

SIBEMA, MONGOLIA, THE KIRGHIS STEPPES, CHINESE TARTARY,
AND PART OF CENTRAL ASIA.

BT
THOMAS WITLAM ATKINSON.

iltrt^ ^mttmB lUnBtratiotts.

PHILADELPHIA:
J. W BRADLEY, 48 NORTH FOURTH STREET.
1860.

TO
pis ImprisI Plajeslg, ^hmniist t^e S!«o«b,
EMFEBOB 07 ALL THE BUSSIAS,
ETC., £T0.,
THIS VOLUME,
BT SPECIAL PERMISSION,
18 OBATEFULLT DEDIOATBD
BT
HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTT'8
¦OIT HUUBLB AND OBBDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOK

PEEFACE.

When the journey narrated in the following pages ¦was
undertaken, it was not with the intention of publishing
either a book of Travels or any other work. My sole
object was to sketch the scenery of Siberia, scarcely at
all known to Europeans. While thus employed, I passed
out of the Emperor of' Russia's Asiatic dominions, having
been provided with an especial passport by command of
his imperial majesty, Nicholas the First, which enabled
me to cross the frontier, as well as to re-enter the empire
at any other points to which my rambles might lead me.
I have brought back faithful representations of the
scenery, without taking any artistic liberties, preferring
Nature in her own attractions to snatching a grace within
the reach of Art.
Mine has been a tolerably wide field, extending from
Kokhan on the west to the eastern end of the Baikal, and
as far south as the Chinese town of Tchin-si, including
that immense chain Syan-shan, never before seen by any

PREFACE.

European, as well as a large portion of the western part
of the Gobi, over which Genghis Khan marched his wild
hordes toward the west — scenes on which no pencil has
previously been employed — comprising a distance traversed
of about 32,000 versts in carriages, 7100 in boats, and
20,300 on horseback— in aU, 59,400 versts (about 39,500
miles) in the course of seven years. Neither the old
Venetian nor the Jesuit priests could have visited these
regions, their travels having been far to the south ; nor
am I aware that they brought back any pictorial repre
sentations of the scenes through which they wandered.
Even the recent travellers Hue and Gaby, •who visited
<« the land of grass" (the plains to the south of the great
Pesert of Gobi), did not penetrate into the ciountry of the
Kalkas, and the illustrations to their works were evidently
fabricated in Paris.
Mine is a sunple narratiye of facts, taken from journals
kept with scrupulous care during the whole journey, often
under the influence of great fatigue, and ajnid the pressnre
of numerous difficulties. I suffered much both from
hunger and thirst, have run many risks, and on several
occasions have been placed in most critical situations with
the tribes of Central Asia, more particularly when among
the convicts escaped from the Chinese penal settlements —
desperate characters who hold the lives of men cheap. I
have several times looked upon what appeared inevitable
death, and have had a fair aUowance of hair-breadth
escapes when riding and sketching on the brinks of pre-

PREFACE. ix
cipi«es with a perpendicular deptli of 1500 feet below
me. With these accompaniments, I traiversed much of the
hitherto i^nexplqred regions of Central Asia, and produced
560 sketches of the scenery, executed with the moist
colors made by Winsor and Newtq% ^valuable to an artist
employed under such circumstances. I have used them
on the sandy plains of Central A^ia in a temperature of
60° Reaumur (144° Fahrenheit),, and in Siberia have had
th^ frozen as solid as a mass of iron when the tempera
ture was 43° Reaumur of frost,, 11° below the point, where
the mercury became solid, when I eould make it into baUs
in my bullet-moulds. Some of my largest works have
been painted with colore that have stood these severe
tests, and for depth and pnrity of tone have not been
surpassed by those I have had fresh from the manu
factory. With oajie colors all my eflforts would have been

I am deeply indebted to the late Emperor of Russia,
for witJiQ^ut feis passport I should have been stopped at
every government, and insurmountable difficulties would
have been thrown in my way. This slip of paper proved
a talisman wherever presented in his dominions, and
swept down every obstacle raised to bar my progress. I
have also to thank her imperial highness, the Grand-
Duchess Helen, for many acts of kindness and conde
scension. Nor have I forgotten my obligations to the
Baroness Rahden and Miss Euler, a worthy descendant

X PREFACE.
of the mathematician. To Count Nesselrode I offer my
thanks for many obliging acts. From Mr. Buchanan, our
late minister in Denmark, I received much assistance in
procuring the emperor's permission, for which I take this
opportunity of recording my gratitude. Prince Gertchi-
koflF, the Governor-General of Western Siberia, rendered
me most essential service by forwarding my. sketching
materials to far-distant Cossack posts, for which I return
my acknowledgments. I will not attempt to particularize
the mining officers of the Altai, from all of whom I
received assistance and attention. My thanks are equally
due to the peasants, from many of whom I received a
crust of black bread when sorely pressed by hunger — to
my Cossack companions, who freely shared my toils and
dangers — to the brave Kalmucks, who led me through
difficult mountain regions, and suffered both hunger and
thirst in my service, with the prospect of certain captivity
in case of our being overpowered. To General Moura-
vieff, the Governor-General of Eastern Siberia, I wish
also to express my cordial acknowledgments. He is one
of the most faithful servants of his imperial majesty, and
has done much, and would do more, for the good of his
country, were he permitted. My other friends in Eastern
Siberia I remember with the kindest feelings, and sin
cerely hope that I have not been forgotten by them.

CONTENTS.

Chapter paqd
I. St. Petersburq to Ekaterineburq . . . .13
n. Iron Mines  22
m. EXOTTRSIONS ON THE TOHOUSSOWAIA .... 30
IV. Ascent of the Katohkanar  44
V. Mineral Treasures of the Oural .... 57
VI. Precious Stones of Siberia  77
VII. Iron and Gold Works  91
VIII. Englishmen in the Oural  105
IX. Adteniures among the Mountains .... 115
X. Border Lands of Asiatic Eussia .... 126
XI. Approach to the Altai Range  137
XII. Ascent of the Altai  151
XIII. Frontier of the Chinese Empire .... 171
XIV. Descent op the Irtisoh  181
XV. The Kirghis Steppe  195'
XVI. Among the Kirghis  207,
XVII. Adventures in the Steppe  221
XVIII. Kambles among the Kirghis  244
XIX. Babnaoul  259
XX. Sporting Adventures  271
XXI. On the Lakes of the Altai  285
XXII. The Chains of the Altai  298
XXIII. Ascent of the Bielouka  319
XXIV. The Country of the Kalkas — Ancient Mongolia . 347
XXV. Plains of Mongolia  858
XXVI. Chinese Tartary  380
.XXVII. Tchin-si and Syan-shan  421
XXVIII. The Sultans of the Steppe  437
XXIX. Saian Mountains— Oriental Siberia . . . .457

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FAGH
Sultan Souk AND Family  TofaceTitU
Girls playing at Skakiet  ""
Swimming a beep Stream  • • ^'^
Discussing the Journey to Nor-Zaisan  i"'
Group of Kieohis, with Koumis Bottle and Bowl . . . 222
Night Attack on the Aoul of Mahomed .... 235
A Group of Mahomed's Kirohis  243
A Group of Kirohis with two Brides ..... 248
Kalmuck Saorlfiob  802
Kalmuck Priest  808
Yepta  821
Cavern on the Biter Tess  859
. Cavern on the Lake Oulunjoub, Mongolia .... 870
Our Night Encampment  413
Sultan Iamantuck and Family ....... 440
Sultan Beck and Family  444
Sultan Boulania  446
Sultan Alie Iholdi ....,.••. 448

(12)

ORIENTAL AND WESTERN SIBERIA,

CHINESE TAHTARY.

CHAPTER I.
ST. PETERSBURG TO EKATERINEBURG.
Soon after my arrival in St. Petersburg, I made the acquaint
ance of the late Admiral Rickardt, and from him gathered much
information about Siberia, or, rather the route through the coun
try to Kamtschatka, the soutliern regions being unknown to Hm.
He had only travelled by the great post-road from St. Petersburg
to Ochotsk, a very monotonous joumey. The road never approaches
the Altai, being usually carried along the great Siberian plain at
a distance of five or six hundred versts from this mountain chain.
I was told that the authorities would only give a passport to travel
from one town to another, and that this would have to be changed
at every govermnent town, causing great trouble, expense, and
delay. After due consideration, I determined to apply to the
emperor for especial permission to travel and sketch, feeling
certain that if tbis were granted there would be no difficulties ;
if refused, I would not make the attempt. I wrote a letter,
wliich was most kindly laid before his imperial majesty by Mr.
Buchanan, Charg§ d' Affaires, and in tliree days received an
answer from Count Nesselrode, informing me that the emperor
had granted my request, and that orders had been issued to the
Mimster of the Interior, and otlier authorities, to prepare for me
all the necessary papers. Having received these, I commenced
making inquiries about the country. The Minister of Pinauce
(13)

14 TABLEAUX VIVANTS.
very kindly put me in communication with a mining-engineer
officer who had been engaged in tbe Altai, and from bim I
collected much valuable information relative to my route.
I found the road between St. Petersburg and Moscow very
bad ; the great traffic between the two capitals having cut it into
Bucb deep boles that the sledge went down every few minutes
with a fearful shock. This I considered a good breaking in for
the long journey before me. On tbe evening of the third day I
reached Moscow in a great snow-storm, which rendered my entry
into tbe ancient city anything but pleasant. I was provided witb
letters to several Russian families, who did everything they could
to render my short stay agreeable. About a week after my
arriva], there was a great festival to commemorate the anniversary
of the founding of Moscow, seven hundred years ago. Through
the kindness of some friends I was enabled to join in these
festivities : but I shall not attempt to describe either dinners or
balls; suffice it to say they were on a grand scale. What
interested me most was a series of tableaux vivants given in the
" Nobility's Hall" (Assembly Rooms) before his imperial
majesty and most of the court. Some of these were highly
interesting, as they were representations of life seven centuries
back. Old furniture, armour, and plate, were brought from the
Kremlin ; these and the antique dresses gave a most faithful
character to the pictures. During the evening a tableau was
given representing the four elements, Air, Earth, Fire, and
Water, which were represented by four beautiful young ladies,
whose appearance called forth immense applause. Without
dropping the curtain, this picture was changed by suddenly
drawing off the dresses, which was done by some one beneath
the stage. One young lady (whether of earth or heaven seemed
difficult to determine) waa kneeling on one knee on a piece of
rock, and when the signal was given, was jerked from her place
and tumed feet upward on the floor, — a position for which she
was evidently not prepared. Many of the spectators began to
laugh, but this was very properly hushed by his imperial
majesty in an instant; in the next, the lady was divested of her
first costume, and again took her place on the rock, witb tbe
additional charm of a deep blush spreading over her face.
Another very interesting event took place during my stay :
this was the jubilee given to Professor Fischer. I bad previously

THE VASHOCK.. — PRINCE OURGUSOEF. i5
made his acquaintance, and he was mucb interested in wj
journey. I found afterward, on reaching the Altai, that he bad
written to his friend, Dr. Gabler, recommending me to his
pecuUar care. I remained at Moscow fifteen days, most of whioh
were stormy, with heavy falls of snow and violent winds.
An order from the minister in St Petersburg procured me fi
postillion from the post-office in Moscow to travel with me to
Ekaterineburg, and on the 6th of March we started. There was
now no time to spare ; already the roads were reported bad, and 1
had a joumey of 1707 versts before me. My only companion in
the vashook was a large deer-hound ; the postillion sat with the
driver. It is perhaps, necessary to say that a vashock is a long
box-like machine, placed on a sledge ; in fact, a sort of half-grown
omnibus. When the roads are worn into "oukhabas" (deep
holes), this conveyance is too long, for the horses drag it over the
ridges, going at a good speed, and jerk it beyond the centre ; then
down it goes with a tremendous thump, which sends the head of
the unfortunate inmate against the top with terrible force. In
fact, after the second day's travelling, I came to the conclusion
that my head was well nigh bullet-proof.
We passed through Vladimir early in the morning, when I saw
the Cathedral with its five domes, which has a very imposing
appearance. This is a small town, and has, I believe fourteen
churches, with several other public buildings. From one point
of the road there was a pretty view of the place, with its numeroua
domes and towers, which gave it a very picturesque appearance.
With the thermometer standing at 12° R. of frost, this was not
the time to stop sketching any town, so on we galloped through
snow and storm, and reached Nijne-Novgorod at nine o'clock the
following moming. Having a letter to the governor. Prince
Ourousoff, I determined to stay a few hours and deliver it, also to
stroll through this ancient city, held in melancholy remembrance
as the one where Ivan Vassilievitch the Cruel committed some
of his most barbarous atrocities. Entering the lower town, I was
taken to a sort of inn on the banks of the Volga ; but as my stay
was to be short, it mattered little what accommodation it afforded.
AU those travellers who expect to find a Russian host very attentive
to his guests will be disappointed. My postillion led the way up
stairs, and showed me a whole flat of pens or private boxes in a
filthy condition, and with very little furniture : these were formed

16 A RUSSIAN HOTEL.
by dividing large rooms with inch and a half boards. My luggage
was brought up stairs, as it could not be left with safety in the
sledge. After a wash, my man succeeded in getting (with some
difficulty) a breakfast. Having dispatched this meal, I got into
a sledge and paid my visit to the governor, who received me witb
much kindness, and insisted on my dining with him. I urged the
necessity of my pushing forward without delay as an excuse, but
this was overruled, he assuring me that the present intense cold
would prevent the roads being destroyed, and that, as I was
proceeding to a colder clime, I need be under no apprehension on
that score.
Being free until four o'clock, I saUied forth to stroll through the
upper town, and visited some of the churches, of which there are
a great number; several are very ancient, and possess considerable
architectural merit. There is one that stands on the banks of
the Volga — a very curious composition, which I was anxious to
transfer to my sketch-book, but this was impossible. A little before
the dinner-hour I again left my lodging, got into a sledge, and
drove to the upper town. The wind had now increased to a gale,
and it was with difficulty the man made his horse face the clouds
of snow. On reaching my point of observation, I found a party
of eight assembled, and, what was still more agreeable to me, the
Princess Ourousoff spoke excellent English. Having spent a few
pleasant hours, I returned to my dirty room, intending to get, if
possible, a good night's rest, and start at daylight. At this place
they provided neither bed, mattress, pillows, nor sheets; a bed
stead there was with a boarded bottom, and on it I rolled myself
up in my fur, and prepared for sleep. I had no sooner done this
than I discovered that I had neighbors on one side of me, and by
their voices I found they were of different sexes. At first they
appeared to be in a very angry mood, as I supposed from the tone
of their voices, which induced me to wish them on the other side
of the Styx. Either I was dreadfully tired, or the chatterers
became quiet, for I remember no more until roused up just at
daylight; on looking ont, I saw it was a clear, cold, and calm
morning, a good prospect for our onward progress.
Our road was along the ice nearly all the way to Kazan, a dis
tance of about 380 versts. Having reached the track, the four
horses were turaed toward the east, and away we went at a slash
ing pace. Temporary or winter stations are made on the banks

AN ACCIDENT. 17
of the river. I found them wretched and dirty, often mere hovels,
into which it was loathsome to enter. After leaving Novgorod,
the south bank of the Volga is in many places very abrupt, and
rises 150 to 200 feet above the stream. In summer, when the
trses are clothed in their varied foliage, and reflected on the broad
bosom of the river, many of these scenes will be exceedingly
beautiful. Station after station was passed, and still our course
was onward. An exhilarating gallop brought us to one of these
stations about two o'clock, where we were informed that at fifteen
versts' distance we must leave the river, as the ice was unsafe for
several versts beyond this point. In rather less than an hour we
reached the place, when the yemstchick (driver) drove up the steep
bank in an oblique direction. About thirty or forty feet below
the summit the horses came to a dead stand, when our united
efforts could not get us out of the difficulty. After lifting and
pulling for nearly an hour without gaining a yard, the shades of
evening fast coming on, I began to suspect our only hope was to
send to the next station, ten versts distant, and get other horses.
While the man was repairing some broken traces, the postillion
and myself ascended to the top of the bank to look out for
assistance, when we discovered a long caravan of sledges at a
considerable distance, coming toward us ; this relieved our
anxiety, and just at dusk they came up, when three of their
horses were unyoked, and dragged us to the summit.
Presently we again started forward, driving over a flat table-land
to another part of the river. Having gone some five or six versts,
I was roused up by a great shout from the two men, when we dis-
covwred that we were on the brink ofa steep bank; almost instantly
the horses lost all power over the machine, and down we went
with fearful speed. Suddenly a great crash occurred, every
square of glass was broken, out leaped my dog much alarmed,
while I was driven with such force against the side of the carriage
that I thought my shoulder was dislocated; the door was wrenched
open by the concussion, and I sprang out into the snow, which I
found very deep. On looking round I could not see either of the
men, but, forcing my way to the other side of the vashock,
discovered a pair of legs sticking out of the snow : getting held of
these, and tugging away for a moment, out floundered the postil
lion. We now looked for the driver, and discovered him lying
among his horses in the deep drift; we dragged him out, and found
2

18 GENERAL BARATINSKT.
him unhuri;. Getting up the horses was a more laborious work,
however, in due time they were extricated, but the vehicle was a
wreck. Fortunately, we had a good stock of rope, and the two
men set about repairing damages. At last the conveyance was
pronounced strong enough to take us to the station. I sat down,
when we were dragged slowly along in a most shattered condition,
till we reached our destination, where I was detained four hours
while the vashock was repaired. During the time I examined
into the state of affairs inside, when, to my horror, I discovered
that my two mountain barometers were broken, and other things
damaged. A bad beginning the first day on the Volga ! The
accident had been caused by the driver going out of the track,
and, to avoid the stumps of some trees, had pulled his horses
sharp around over the brink of the bank, which was hidden by
deep snow.
After this affair my journey along the river was smooth and
agreeable, and we reached Kazan at half past four o'clock on the
morning of the second day since leaving Novgorod. Having
letters to the governor, General Baratinsky, and his lady, I
presented them, and was very kindly received. I met several of
the professors of the University, and in their company two days
were most advantageously spent. The Kremlin at Kazan stands
on high ground commanding the valley toward the Volga, and
has a very picturesque effect when approached from the river.
In 1844, nearly one-half of the town was burned down, and even
at this time many parts have a most desolate and wretched
appearance. Several of the churches had been seriously damaged,
and it was really distressing to see so many blackened skeletons
of fine buildings, and heaps of ruins in other places.
I was advised to delay my joumey as little as possible, as a few
stages farther I should find no snow ; therefore at five o'clock in
the afternoon of the second day I was again en route, and soon
met with symptoms of a rapid thaw. Indeed, so bad was the
road that I was only able to travel three stations during the night.
At seven o'clock in the morning I had made but sixty-nine versts
in fourteen hours. While taking my breakfast it began to rain,
and continued for several hours. The postillion ordered six
horses to drag us over the country. I soon found we had left
the road, and it was a hunt for a track the whole time. Snow
was StUl lying in the woods, and wherever this was found our

RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY. 19
pace was increased to a gallop. Near the end of the second
station I had another break-down. Ropes were again resorted
to, and another hour was spent in tying up the broken limbs of
the machine. While taking my tea I was joined by a traveller,
a Russian officer, who, after speaking to the postillion, addressed
me in German, on the insecurity of my sledge. He remained
with me for more than an hour, then left, promising to dine with
me at the next station, where he was going, but, before leaving,
gave some instructions to my man.
Again we had six horses, which took us off at a rattling pace.
I began to feel great doubt as to our reaching Malmouish, the
sledge was so bad ; there, I felt certain, it must be left. However,
at last we entered the town, when the man drove into a large
yard, belonging to a very good house, which I was certain was
not the station. On stepping out of the vashook, the Russian
officer and an old gentleman met me, who, I was told, was the
father of my new friend. They led me into the house, and
shortly a good dinner was placed before the officer and myself, the
family having dined before his arrival. I spent several hours
with these kind people ; my baggage was taken out of the vashock
and packed into a kebitka, and nowhere at this place would they
allow me to pay for anything I needed. They urged me to stay
a day or two, but this was impossible ; I remained until midnight,
when, after expressing my obligations, I was once more galloping
along the road, now hard frozen. Fortunately the weather
remained cold, and a heavy fall of snow, which continued for two
days, rendered the road good again, though it prevented me
seeing the country.
I was now on the western slopes of the Oural, and very
anxious to see the chain, but in this I was disappointed, and
entered Perm at half past two o'clock on the third morning after
leaving Malmouish without having seen a mountain. From
hence our road was over the Oural, and in twenty hours we should
cross the boundary and be in Asia. We only remained here to
chanse horses, as the master at the station said it was doubtful if
we could reach Ekaterineburg in a sledge. About half past three
o'clock in the morning we left Perm in a drenching rain and as
dark as Erebus. How the yemstchick found his way was to me a
mystery ; but he did so, and at a most rapid speed. We had four
horses, and travelled the twenty-five versts in an hour and a half

20 COUNGOUR THIEVES.
The people at this station said I must leave the sledge and go
on in a post-carriage on wheels ; however, after a long discussion
between my postillion and the men, besides a taste of a heavy
^hip to give weight to his argument, six horses were at last har
nessed to the sledge, and we started, the rain still pouring down,
and svery hour making the road worse ; indeed, in many places,
it was with great difficulty that the horses could drag us along.
About midday we reached Coungour, celebrated for its tanneries
and its thieves. Of the attainments of the latter in their particu
lar vocation they gave me a specimen. A considerable number
of men were assembled around the sledge in whieh I sat, but my
deer-hound leaped out, and the postillion gave him some water.
The horses were quickly put in. Observing that the dog evidently
wished to mn, I let him do so, and we started off; after going
about two hundred yards, I looked for him, but could see him
nowhere. In a moment the horses were stopped and turned back
toward the station ; still no dog was visible. Several groups of
men were standing about, but they all swore, in answer to the
postillion's questions, that they had not even seen the animal.
At this moment I perceived two men walking off towards the
back of some old buildings. My man had taken his pistol and
gone in another direction. I took one of mine from the sledge,
put it in my pocket, and followed quickly through some ruined
wooden buildings into a large yard, surrounded by stables, where
I found a third man ; all three turned toward me, and said some
thing I did not understand. Being convinced I had got on the
right track, I gave a whistle, which the animal replied to, first by
a whine, and then by a loud bark that directed me to his prison.
I now walked toward the door; the three black-looking scoundrels
stepped forward to prevent my opening it; but my two barrels
suddenly pointed toward them, and the click of the lock, spoke a
language they perfectly understood. Unresisted, I pushed open
the door, and out bounded the deer-hound with a leathern thong
on his neck. When he saw the three fellows he set up a loud
growl, evidently thinking we should have a fight ; but they did
not attempt to bar our passage out. My man was delighted to
see the dog again, and we soon turned our backs on this den of
thieves. There are several stations along this part of the road
notoriously bad, demanding unceasing vigilance from the traveller.
Near the end of the third station from Coungour I passed a

KIRSCHENWASSER.  TUE ClIIEr OE THE OURAL. 21
very heavily loaded vashock, which the horses, notwithstanding
flogging, coaxing, and swearing, could scarcely move along. The
evening was just drawing in when I reached the station, where,
after a twelve hours' fast, I found it necessary to take some
refreshment I had brought with me, as nothing but hot water can
be obtained at these places. While doing this the vashock I had
passed came up, and in walked an officer, two ladies, and a little
boy. We made some attempts at conversation, and succeeded in
a trifling degree with German. My provisions were nearly
exhausted, so that I had none to offer them. I had, however,
some very old " Kirschenwasser," given me by a friend to drinli
on the road. The ladies looked so cold, hungry, and miserable,
that I could not help offering it to them as a cordial ; age,
perhaps, had taken off its fiery edge, for one of them drank nearly
a tumbler ; the gentleman also partook of it freely. He was a
mining-engineer proceeding to Barnaoul.
We left them at the station, and travelled on, over frightful
roads, now almost impassable ; even with six horses my progress
was slow. Barly on the following morning we crossed the bound
ary into Asia, and at the first station took my breakfast — only
seventy-six versts to the end of my present journey. A thick fog,
with heavy rain, obscured all the country — a most unpleasant
mantle. The last part of the road was fearful ; we were fourteen
hours travelling it. Between twelve and one o'clock on the
Wednesday morning we got into Ekaterineburg, having been ten
days making the journey.
After a good night's rest, I called and delivered my letter from
the Minister of Finance to the chief of the Oural. His reception
was most cordial, and having placed me under the care of a coun
tryman who had been in the Russian service ten years, I felt at
home, being able to talk in my own tongue. To this gentleman,
and to his amiable little wife, I am indebted for many pleasing
recollections of Ekaterineburg. This was the last week of the
great fast, and Sunday next was Baster. The general-in-chief
invited me to dine, and see the ceremony of kissing; and at his
house I found some fifty officers assembled. I spent three weeks
among these kind and hospitable people, acquiring much useful
information respecting the regions I intended to visit. My
Siberian friends reached Ekaterineburg two days later. We met
frequently during my stay, and then separated, they going 2500

22 IRON-WORKS.

versts eastward, and I tuming to the north, but hoping to meet
again in the summer when I reached the Altai.

CHAPTER II.
IRON MINES.
The ice on the River Tehoussowaia broke up last night : this
was the signal for my departure. I started at twelve, with an
officer of the mines, to Outkinskoi Pristan (port). The roads
were very bad — in some places almost impassable. Even with
fiv£ horses yoked to a very light carriage, we were five hours
travelling twenty versts. We arrived at Bilimbawsky at eight
o'clock, and went to the iron-works of Count Strogonoff. The
director gave us a hearty welcome, and entertained us most
suraptuously. His supper was good and his wine excellent. He
also gave me some English porter, whioh I enjoyed much more
than his champagne. We spent a very pleasant evening; my
two friends smoked and talked until one o'clock, and then I was
taken to my sleeping apartment — the drawing-room, where I
p;issed the night upon the same sofa on which the Emperor
Alexander had rested the evening of his visit to these works.
Having slept well, I turned out early in the morning, and
walked over the iron-works, with which I was greatly interested.
They are well conducted, and produce a large quantity of very
good metal. Our host gave us a most substantial breakfast, after
which we were taken in his carriage to the prison on the Tehous
sowaia, about three versts from the iron-works, where a small boat
and three men were ready to take us down the river. At this
port numbers of workmen were busily engaged loading thirty-six
barks with bar and sheet iron to send to the fair at Nijne-Novgorod,
where they were expected to arrive in July : each carries a cargo
of 9000 poods, or about 144 tons.
At nine o'clock we bade adieu tc our hospitable host, stepped
into the boat, and were soon floating down the stream at a great
speed. The view from this part of the river is not very interest
ing; in most places there is forest to the water's edge on both
banks, rising high on the south side, but at some distance from

IRON-WORKS. — BARK-BUILDING. 2.3
the river ; y3t the scenery is pretty in some parts. Though the
sun was shining brightly, the masses of ice and snow piled up in
the valley rendered the atmosphere exceedingly cold ; nor wero
there any indications of spring. We descended the river rapidly,
making the thirty versts in two hours, and arrived at Outkinskoi
Pristan at eleven o'clock. This is the place where most of thc
barks are built to convey the produce of the Oural mines and
iron-works, belonging to the crown, to Nijne-Novgorod, Moscow,
and St. Petersburg. It was now a scene of great activity, there
being four thousand men in this small village, brought from
various places (some from villages five and six hundred versts
distant), all diligently engaged in loading the vessels with guns
of large dimensions, made in Kamenskoi Zavod ; also with shot,
shell, and other munitions of war from the different works in the
South Oural, destined for Sevastopol and the forts on the Black
Sea. These munitions of war are made with great care and accu
racy under the superintendence of very intelligent artillery officers.
The barks are built on the bank of the Tehoussowaia with their
sides to the stream ; they are flat-bottomed, with straight sides
125 feet long, have a breadth of twenty-five feet, and are from
eight to nine feet deep ; the head and stern are formed by a sort
of obtuse angle, .the ribs of birch-trees selected for the purpose,
and the planking of deal : there is not a nail or an iron bolt in
them, they being put together with wooden pins ; and they must
be built the year before they are launched. The decks are formed
with strong boards framed together, but not fastened to the bark ;
a precaution absolutely necessary, as they are often sunk in deep
water after striking the rocks. When this happens, the deck
floats, by which the men are saved. Each bark, whose cargo has
a weight of 9000 poods, requires thirty-five men to direct it ; and
one with a cargo of 10,000 poods has a crew of forty men. Oars,
usually of forty-five to fifty feet long, with strong and broad
blades, guide it'at the head and stem, .and a man stands upon a
raised platform in the middle to look out and direct its course.
I saw several of tbese vessels launched : it was a curious
spectacle. On the top of the craft there were about twelve men ;
two gave, or rather sang, the words of command, which was
followed by the others. About 400 men, and numbers of women,
stood ready with long poles to push the vessel toward the stream,
which was done most lustily, all singing a chorus, and each verse

24 BLESSING THE BARKS.
bringing the vessel nearer the water. The first I saw launched
occupied more than three hours, much of the physical force of the
operators having been spent in singing.
On the 15th of April, there was an earthquake at forty minutes
past twelve o'clock at noon, which caused a great sensation
throughout the Oural, although no damage was done. A large
boat had been built for me at the pristan, and was to have a crew
of five men and a boy. Unfortunately, there was a marked
change in the weather; we had rain and a strong wind, which
caused a great flood, that swept large masses of ice down the river
at a fearful speed, producing much confusion and anxiety at the
port, as the barks were in danger of being cut through by the
blocks of ice as they floated past. Not far from the government
pristan I saw seven belonging to a merchant in Ekaterineburg,
laden with tallow, and ready to float down the Tehoussowaia to
the River Kama, and two were seriously damaged by the ioe. I
received an invitation, whioh I accepted, to go on board and see
the priest bless them before starting on their voyage. I found
the ceremony highly interesting, and it was attended to with much
solemnity by every person on board. After this the company began
feasting on the various good things provided by the merchant.
The wodlet/ (brandy) soon performed its part, for in an hour they
had forgotten their toil, and were embracing each other with tho
fervor of brothers after twenty years' separation.
The flood having subsided, the storm of wind, snow and rain,
was followed by a bright sunny morning, which induced me to
hasten my departure. The water had risen 6 feet 4 inches higher
than since 1830, and much damage had ensued. My friends at
the pristan provisioned me, and added some bottles of Madeira
and rum, believing it probable we might have a storm that would
compel us to seek shelter in the woods. Having thanked my
hoi^pitable host and wife, I stopped into the boat; my crew, by
direction of the steersman, offered up a prayer for our safe voyage
Jl'Wq this rocky and rapid river; this ended, they pulled out into
tho stream, and we were soon floating with the current at a great
speed. From information I had received, I did not expect to
find much fine scenery for the first twenty-five or thirty versts •
still, there were some parts very pretty; indeed, if this river wero
in England every point of it would be sketched.
The valley for the first twenty versts is not wide ; on one side

VOLCANIC AGENCY. 25
the hills rise from the stream, but not abruptly; they are covered
with a pine forest to their summit, but the trees are small. On
the opposite bank there is meadow-land — at least such it appears,
although no cattle graze there excepting near the villages, and
these are very far apart. We travelled thirty and forty versts
without seeing even a cottage. On this low land there are fine
clumps of pine and birch trees, often so beautifully arranged that
I fancied they had been planted with the greatest care ; Nature
alone, however, has been the landscape gardener. I was told
there were many elks in these valleys, but saw none, nor did I
make any attempt to get at them, it being impossible at this season
to penetrate the forests, as the mountain streams are pouring down
with great fury. Bears are also numerous, which I do not wonder
at, for they are never disturbed, the inhabitants in these parts
being few in number. There are many places containing thou
sands of acres, upon which it is probable man has never set his
foot. In summer it would be impossible to penetrate these
gloomy forests, on account of the extensive morasses, which no
one would dare to cross; and in winter, the certainty of being
frozen to death in these wilds is a sufficient check upon any
daring spirit.
In some places I passed masses of rock most curiously thrown
up and broken, affording abundant proof that at some very remote
period volcanic agency had been at work. In many parts the
strata, which had once been horizontal, were now turned up, and
curved into most extraordinary forms, and other substances forced
through them. I saw in the limestone rocks several apparently
large caverns, but it was impossible to enter them in the then
state of the flood. Had our boat touched the rocks, she would
have gone to pieces in a minute, and no one would have been left
to tell the tale.
We had been nine hours on the river, and had descended about
thirty-five versts, and it was now dark and snowing fast. On
turning a mass of rock I distinguished a light from a furnace in
the forest : we pushed on, and soon came to a small stream, and
at the distance of a verst I beheld the iron- works. Our boat was
turned to enter this torrent, as it proved to be, but we found it
impossible to ascend with the oars. The men, therefore, landed,
and, having obtained assistance, hauled the boat up the stream
with a rope, which was not effected without some difficulty ; at

26 AN INTRUSION.
last we came to a part that stopped our progress. Here I jumped
ashore, and my steersman walked with me to the house of the
director. After a walk of about twenty minutes, almost up to the knees
in mud and water, I was taken into a yard and shown at my
request the door of the director's house. Door I ought not to call
it, for it was not more than four feet high by two feet six wide.
Thinking the man had made a mistake, or had misunderstood me,
I turned round and repeated my question. " Dome Nachaluik ?"
he exclaimed, still pointing to the door; so in I went regardless
of pitfalls, and found the place so dark that I could see nothing.
I began to feel for a door. At last I heard some voices, and
walking toward the sound, reached another room, the sole occupant
of whioh proved to be a large dog, who began to bark and growl
furiously. This seemed to rouse up the family, as a woman opened another
door, whioh let in some light from the lamp, and then I found that
I was in a Russian bed-room : to retreat was useless, so I put a
good face on the inatter and went forward. What the woman
thought of my intrusion it is impossible to say; however, he-r
husband quickly appeared, and then I handed him my papers,
whieh at once procured me every attention.
I had at last found the director of the works. He sent men
with a horse and cart to bring my luggage up to his house, and
very shortly a boy brought me some hot tea and preserved fruit.
When my things arrived I got a pair of dry boots ; the other
clothing I could not change, as the good lady kept passing in and
out of the room every minute.
Through one of the doorways I observed some six or seven
pairs of eyes twinkling and staring at me, wondering, no doubt,
what sort of animal it was that had invaded their quiet abode.
After a sight of their little faces, I determined to establish myself
in the good opinion of the mother by making friends with the
children. I succeeded in persuading oue little boy to come
forward. She then left tho room, returning in a few minutes
with her youngest son, whom I presently tossed in my arms to
the great astonishment of the family and the gratification of the
mother. Conversation beyond a few words could not be attempted, as I
was obliged to resort to my Russian and English dictionary every

A RUSSIAN HOUSEHOLD. 27
few minutes, and this made it exceedingly tedious ; however, all
weut on well and in good humor. About ten o'clock they began
to set out a table, and in due time supper appeared. I was placed
at the head of the table, the good man at one side, and I naturally
expected his amiable spouse would take a seat opposite to me,
instead of which she walked to the end of the room and sat down ;
but, having refused to partake of their hospitality unless she
would sit by us, the lady was induced to make one of the party,
after which everything went on well. To describe the dishes
would be useless ; I can only say that some of them were very
good — at least I thought so after the sharp, frosty blast I had
encountered. My host placed several sorts of wine on the table,
and both he and his wife urged me to eat and drink.
In Siberia, each good housewife makes from the wild fruit, of
which there is a great variety, several sorts of nalifka (cordial).
A bottle of this was produced, and a glass of it handed to me ; it
was the color of claret, but the flavor vastly superior. I took a
second glass, to their particular satisfaction. Immediately four
other bottles of different sorts were ordered in, from all of which
I was obliged to drink a " wee drap" during supper ; and most
delicious nalif kas they were. Finally, as a finish to our repast,
my host brought in a bottle of Champagne and two glasses on a
tray, evidently intending that he and I should drink it alone ; but
here I was forced to disappoint him, for, as soon as he had filled
a bumper for me, I could not help presenting it to his wife,
evidently to her great surprise and pleasure. Another glass was
brought for me, and we then very deliberately. proceeded to finish
the bottle.
When this was disposed of, I thought all concluded for the
night, but was mistaken ; my hostess left the room, presently
returning with other varieties of Siberian liquors, all of which she
insisted on my tasting : this, with them, means finishing a glass ;
1 had no sooner taken one than she had another ready. At last
I got through the tasting process, or, at least, supposed that I
had • but judge my astonishment when my host walked in with
another bottle of Champagne, which in spite of all opposition, my
friends compelled me to join in drinking. I was then provided
with a sofa to sleep on, and turned in for the night.
At seven o'clock next morning a boy brought me tea and bread,
of which I partook ; I then went with my host to the iron-wurks

28 CAVERNS.
Bar-iron in large quantities is made here, and is sent in barks to
the Kama. Having spent three hours in looking over the works,
I returned to breakfast. Tea formed no part of this meal : it was
Siberian fare — fish-pasty, meat, several sorts of game, and tarts
made of preserved wild strawberries, with plenty of their excellent
nalifka ; and it finished with a bottle of Champagne.
All the children were brought into the room to wish me a safe
voyage. I felt it necessary to say something to each — the
daughter twelve years old, the others, boys, varying from a baby
to a lad of nine years. I presented to the girl one of my illustrated
English books, and wrote my name in it to satisfy all hands : this
will be preserved with great care, and most probably handed
down to the next generation. The whole family sat down,
and I followed their example : two or three minutes were spent,
as I supposed, in silent prayer, and then all rose up. My host
advanced and kissed me three times ; I then kissed his wife's
hand, and she my cheek : similar salutations were exchanged
between myself, the daughter, and boys, all of whom I kissed
most heartily. I am sure I left this family on the strongest
terms of friendship. I then renewed my joumey. My host told
me that himself and a friend were going three versts down tha
Tehoussowaia, if I would take them in the boat. I was glad of
the opportunity to oblige him, and off we started. We had not
proceeded more than two versts when he ordered my boy to give
him the glasses and a bottle. It is only necessary to tidd that
the Champagne flowed again. His sledge was waiting on the
bank of the river, and his only object in going with me was to
show his hospitality. My friends landed, got into the sledge, and
returned home.
After paasing Outkinskoi, I found the rocks on one side of the
river very high and craggy; in one part there were two large
caverns in the face of the rock, about one hundred feet above tho
water. I called to the boatmen, " Sto!!" (Stop !), that I might
examine them. Although they immediately obeyed, the stream
was so strong it forced us past, and, notwithstanding all their
efforts, we could not pull back to the place. At last they
succeeded in putting me ashore lower down, where I began to
climb over the rocks, hoping to reach the caverns. After an
hour's hard labor and some tumbles, I was compelled to give it
up, as I found ropes and ladders were indispensable to enable me

ACCIDENTS. 29
to scale the rocky parapet. I dared not attempt the slippery ledges
elose to the boiling flood ; it would have been certain destruction.
What these caverns contain I cannot tell; I did not expect to
find either gold or precious stones, but something in their dark
recesses on which I might employ my pencil, and I left the place
with great reluctance. Again I noticed most singular contortions
in the strata — some forced up in curves, others in triangles ; and
some rose almost perpendicular, giving great variety and pictu
resque beauty to these wild gorges.
A snow-storm, that continued for several hours, prevented my
sketching many of the scenes I passed, which I much regretted,
as they are interesting from being named after some of the cele
brated Tartar chiefs, " men terrible in battle." After a very cold
and unpleasant voyage, we arrived at Chaitauskoi Pristan at half
past seven o'clock. There I found some friends from Verkne
Issetzkoi, by whom I was most cordially welcomed. They were
engaged despatching the barks to Nijne-Novgorod with the
produce of their several iron-works. About three hours before I
arrived six poor men were drowned in attempting to cross the
river in a small boat, and although several hundred people saw the
accident, they could render no assistance. Shortly afterward, at
a point two versts farther down the river, another accident
occurred. A little before eight o'clock the church bell began to
ring most violently, which induced me to think it was an alarm
of fire ; both men aad women, carrying small poles in their hands
and running fast, were making for the scene of danger or
misfortune. It appeared, however, that, instead of a fire, an
accident had happened to one of the large barks, laden with iron,
which had struck on a rock and sunk immediately, excepting the
deck part, that floated and saved the crew.
From the window at which I am now sitting I can see the
higher ridge of the Oural, covered with snow. Though only seven
versts distant, it would require a day to ascend it on horseback.
Had it bpen possible, I should have gone there ; but the streams
dashing from the mountains forbade such an attempt at this
season of the year.

30 EXCURSIONS ON THE TOHOUSSOWAIA.

CHAPTER III.
EXCURSIONS ON THE TCHOUSSOWALA.
All was prepared for my departure at eight o'clock this morn.
ing, but a great snow-storm approaching from the higher region
of the Oural, I was told that I must on no account leave till this
had passed. It was well I remained, as it commenced to blow
most furiously, and the snow fell so thick that we could not have
descried objects a boat's length before us. The storm continued
without intermission until past three, when the weather cleared
up. I then determined to walk along the north bank of the
river, and take a sketch of some fine rocky masses about a verst
distant ; but in this I was disappointed. I had proceeded a short
distance only, when the snow-storm began again with redoubled
vigor, which compelled me to seek shelter in the nearest dwelling.
I turned back and entered a respectable cottage, where I found
two women, who treated me with extreme kindness. It was
difficult to make them understand a word of my Russian ;
however, I suppose the storm spoke for me. When they had
given me a seat, one of them brought some preserved fruit and
a plate of small nuts, whioh I was entreated to eat : the nuts were
from the Siberian cedar, and are much liked here. After remain
ing two hours and the storm moderating, I thanked these kind
people and hastened back to my quarters, as I saw that we should
have a stormy night.
I crossed the Tehoussowaia to the east bank, telling the men to
follow me up the stream with a boat ; I then walked on, and in
about half an hour arrived at a fine rocky gorge ; the precipices
on either side are limestone broken into very beautiful forms, with
small pine and larch trees growing from the fissures. Here I
sketched two views, each displaying some curious geological
features. My companions, having come up, rowed me across the river,
and I continued my walk along the bank about six versts. Here
I sketched another beautiful scene — a splendid mass of limestone,
with the river mshing past its base, and nearly filling up a cavern

RAPID CURRENT. — A FRIEND. 31
in the rooks, which, as I am informed, can be entered in summer
when the water is low. These scenes must be exceedingly
beautiful in June and July, when the shrubs and flowers of
numerous speoies are in bloom. After great labor, my men
succeeded in hauling the boat to this place ; farther they could
not go, as the rocks rose up 100 or 150 feet nearly perpendicular
on both sides of the river, and the water rushed through the
gorge with extraordinary force. Seating myself in the boat and
pointing up the river, the crew began to pull in good earnest, but
our progress was very slow, and it soon became evident that it
was utterly impossible to propel the boat against the rapid current
of the narrow passage. With all our efforts, we had only
ascended the river about fifteen versts in eleven hours, but we
glided down to the pristan in less than an hour. While eating
my dinner I was told that a gentleman had been waiting for me
several hours; that he had just gone out, and would return in a
quarter of an hour. I could not imagine who this could be ;
however, the mystery vanished when my kind hospitable host of
Outkinskoi walked into the room. He had heard that I was
weather-bound at Chaitauskoi, and determined to see me once
more, even if he could not induce me to return to his house. He
urged me strongly and in the most friendly manner to accompany
him, promising to send me back in a boat with a crew of five men
who would stop at any point I directed. I readily availed myself of
his kindness, as it would enable me to sketch the scenes I had
passed through in the storm. We started a little before eight
o'clock to ride through a Siberian or Ouralian forest, ^s this part
of the Tehoussowaia is in Europe. My friend's tarantass was a
light carriage placed on four wheels, and four long poles which
rest on the axle-trees ; thus it is rendered elastic (patent axles ¦
and springs would be useless in this region). To make it more
comfortable, a quantity of straw was put into the bottom, covered
with a rug, and several pillows were placed at the back.
To this machine we had six horses, four yoked to it, managed
by a driver sitting in front, while a boy had charge of the two
leaders. The speed at which we started was kept up through the
village to the foot of a steep hill, where commenced the toils of a
forest drive. A more wild and gloomy road I had never entered
upon. The first hour we had daylight, and then a dusky twilight,
gradually shading into darkness, crept over everything. In some

32 A FOREST DRIVE. — NARROW ESCAPES.
parts of our road I saw magniflcent pine trees, that might be called
giants of the forest : there they stood in all their vigor and strength,
bidding defiance to the storm ; others were observed which, like
these, had once equally defied the tempest, but now showed the
marks of lightning in their shattered limbs, which trembled with
every blast. Hundreds lay around in all stages of decay, con
vincing proofs of the ravages of time, while young plants and
saplings were growing of every age, from a seedling to a tree.
Our pace was almost reduced to a walk in consequence of the
darkness, which had been increased by the dense character of the
forest. At times I could see neither the men nor the horses ; all
around was shrouded in impenetrable gloom. On looking upward,
I could just perceive, through the dim obscurity, gnarled and
twisted branches extending over us, looking like huge serpents
ready to seize their prey. About ten o'clock the moon rose slowly,
and shed her silvery light over wood and glen, giving the different
objects in one direction a spectral appearance ; while to our right,
where her rays touched the summits of the rugged crags, a deeper
shade settled along their base. As the light became stronger, our
drivers pushed on their horses, and soon we were going at a great
speed along a more even track. Suddenly a man rode out from
a dark mass of rock directly toward us, which caused the drivers
to stop our vehicle. My host said something to the man, whioh
caused him to gallop away at full speed, and the clatter of his
horse's hoofs was soon lost in the distance. He was my friend's
servant, ordered to be waiting about half way, that he might speed
on and announce our approach, that supper might be ready for us
on our arrival. The latter part of our journey was slow and over
very rugged ground. Despite all the care taken by our drivers,
we had some narrow escapes ; twice we were nearly tumbled out ;
and in one case, had we actually turned over, we should have been
precipitated into a very deep glen ; but incidents like these are
common enough in these wild regions. At a quarter past twelve
o'clock I again entered the hospitable dwelling of my Russian
friend, whose wife, daughter, and servants rivalled each other in
giving i&e a warm welcome.
1 walked out early the next morning, and observed a boat
preparing for me, and at ten o'clock left my kind friends, although
they used every means to induce me to remain a few days. We
had a bright sunny morning, quite warm, which made everything

FLOUNDERING IN THE SNOW. 33
look gay, and gave a warm tone to the forest scenes. When I
had got into my boat the men plied their oars well, and sent the
little shallop rapidly along. All at once the wind began to roar
as it rushed through the narrow valley, a certain harbinger of a
coming storm. " No morning sun lasts a whole day." The sun
was soon obscured, and dark clouds came rolling over the hills,
pouring down rain and sleet, which almost blinded us. We pulled
up and got into shelter under some large pines — a poor protection
against the icy blast, which made us all shiver. After waiting
more than an hour, my crew urged me to go on, as the storm
would continue all day. They were right. When we arrived in
Chaitanskoi we were completely drenched, and almost frozen
with sitting eight hours in an open boat. Again my wishes had
been frustrated.
At four o'clock this morning the thermometer stood at 15° R.,
with a keen cutting wind from the north. 1 had been told that
some magnificent scenery might be met with near one of the
mountain torrents, about ten versts distant, which could only be
reached by walking over the mountain. An Ouralian hunter
having consented to be my guide, I started at five o'clock to
penetrate the forest : road or track there was none. We descended,
in the first place, the bank of the Tehoussowaia about a verst, then
began the ascent of a very steep and rugged hill toward the north :
this was a work of difficulty, and occupied two hours. Here we
observed both new and old snow, in some places very deep. My
guide pointed out the ravine to which we were going, which
appeared distant not more than a verst, but we found that this
was the most laborious part of our walk. The snow often broke
through with us, and many times we were to the middle in the
upper crust, and as frequently floundering about among fallen
trees, half buried in the snow.
At tim«e I almost feared we must give in, but my English
spirit said No, and on I went, determined not to be beat by my^
woodsman ; besides, I had good reason to think that my friends
in Ilimskoi supposed that no one but a Russian or Ouralian could
accomplish the joumey at this time of the year. I did, however,
and was not disappointed in the scenery. I came to a deep and
narrow gorge, formed most probably when the Oural was upheaved ;
the rocks have been rent asunder, and dolomite peaks are forced
into rugged and picturesque forms. Occasionally a torrent of
3

S-l THE ROBBERS. — ILIMSKOI.
water pours through this ravine, which must add mucb to its
grandeur ; at this time there was scarcely anything of a stream,
the frost having closed up the supply; but later in the day, when
the snow is melting on the mountains, the water will come down
in a perfect flood ; from two o'dock until eight o'clock its roar
will be tremendous.
Having made a sketch and collected some shells from the lime
stone rocks, we began to retrace our steps, which we found much
more difficult, as the snow was already very soft. This compelled
us to seek another route through a more dense part of the forest,
not yet touched by the sun's rays. After a most fatiguing walk,
we arrived at the village at one o'clock, to the great astonishment
of my friends, who never expected that I should succeed.
I decided to remain a day or two in Ilimskoi and sketch several
fine scenes on the river ; to some I must walk, to others go in my
boat. On one of these excursions up the river I noticed a remark
able change in my men, and that my orders were obeyed with
great reluctance ; this induced me to watch their conduct more
closely. The result was the discovery of a mutiny on board my
little craft, having for its chief the servant-boy, who seemed to
have imbibed the idea that, as I understood little of their language,
he could direct the men. During my stay in Ilimskoi I had
made a small map of the river, with the names of all the villages,
and had marked those at which I ought to stop for the night.
For some cause unknown to me, the lad had decided with the
boatmen that they should stop at other places, which probably
they liked better, supposing this could easily be done without my
knowledge. I was not slow in showing him that the best-
conceived plans will sometimes fail.
There are some remarkable rocky scenes between Chaitanskoi
Pristan and Ilimskoi; the limestone rocks are broken and twisted
into every variety of form, rising in many parts 300 or 400 feet
in height.
In some places the strata are forced into a vertical position,
with jagged peaks. To one of these disraptions has been given
the name of the Four .Brothers, after some celebrated robbers
who (as the people say) once lived in a large cavern near these
rocks. Ilimskoi is a small village, pleasingly situated at a sweep of
the river, where another stream, after winding through a rocky

NURSING MOTHERS. 35
valley, joins the Tehoussowaia. In summer, when the birch and
aspens are in full leaf, with wild flowers growing among the rocks
from every cleft, and flowering shrubs in blossom, this Jittle spot
would, no doubt, be beautiful. Now it is one where muoh care
is necessary to avoid being swallowed up in its mud and water ;
even the cattle have great difficulty in dragging their legs out of
the mud pools.
When we arrived here the first evening it was near dusk, and I
tried some of these pools on my walk from the boat to the house
of the first man in the village. On entering his dwelling I was
not impressed with a very favorable idea of the domestic manage
ment. The sight of two not particularly cleanly-looking women
past the bloom of youth somewhat impaired my admiration
of the sex. Each of them was nursing a child, and the two
children appeared far too advanced for such indulgence. Then
came into the room mine host, of whom I desired to know if
he would be kind enough to give me quarters for the night. He
seemed rather surprised at my request, and said something to one
of the females which I did not understand. She left the room,
and returned in a few minutes with a young girl, who was a'so
one of the nursing mothers; then followed two other women-
servants and a man, who flanked the party.
All stood looking at me with a broad stare of astonishment,
evidently wondering how I could venture to ask their lord and
master to give me a..night's lodging. I had given the gentleman
my papers, on which he, having read, rose, made me a very polite
bow, took my hand, and led me to a sofa. He then gave his
orders in a very decided tone, when all scampered off, a new light
having evidently burst upon them. In about a quarter of an
bour I was shown into a small room, where I changed my wet
garments. During this necessary operation I found that I could
not consider the room entirely private, for one of the damsels,
having opened a door, stood gazing at me. Having finished my
toilet as well as I could do in the presence of scrutinizing eyes, I
hurried to my host.
I might with truth call him a great man, not so muoh in stature
as in vast circumference. He seemed however to have muoh
good-nature in his composition, and was most urgent in inducing
me to drink a large quantity of tea with rum, to counteract the
bad effects of the wet, which had been so liberally applied exter-

3(5 CURIOUS ROCKS.
nally. When toa was ended, his wife came into the room; in
size she proved to be a good match for her husband; indeed, such
a pair I had never seen before. I was presented to her in due
foru-, after whioh supper was served, whioh I found excellent.
We sat sipping Ouralian wine and trying to talk until twelve
o'clock, and then separated, mutually satisfied, I believe, with
each other.
Having sketched the most interesting and picturesque scenes
around Ilimskoi, I wanted to depart, but my host and hostess
would not consent to my leaving their hospitable dwelling eo
soon. My colored sketches were examined by them, and as they
recognised the views on the river, they were greatly interested.
Shortly before dinner the old gentleman came to me with a small
silver cup in his hand, and insisted on my accepting it as a token
of his esteem. At the same time his wife brought me a netted
comforter for my neck — the work of her own hands 1 It was
plain enough that to refuse these little tokens would give pain ; I
could do no less, therefore, than accept them. After dinner the
mistress of the house took my arm and accompanied me to the
boat which was waiting to bear me from them ; we were followed
by her husband and his daughters, also by the nurses with the
other children. Having bid them a last farewell, I sat down in
my boat and pushed off into the stream, the women waving their
handkerchiefs, and the men-servants firing a salute of musketry.
I descended the river for about an hour and a half, when I
came to a splendid scene. The stream runs winding through a
limestone gorge, in which cliffs of every varied form rise 400 feet,
some resembling the rains of old castles, their deep chasms sep
arating other masses of peculiar shape. In other parts the rooks
are perpendicular, extending regularly along the water side like
a wall ; elsewhere in the same vicinity I found them broken in
huge masses, like buttresses supporting the ruins of some former
world. Among these precipices there are many large caverns, some
extending far into the mountains, and branching off into different
galleries. I explored one of these by the aid of pine torches
carried by two of my men, and found the entrance not more than
fifteen feet high and eight feet wide. At about thirty feet from
the external opening, the cavern extended into a circular room
twenty-eight feet in diameter, and apparently forty-five to fifty

ROCKY TOiMB 37
feet to the top of the dome : I could not perceive any stalactites.
A narrow opening led the way farther into the rocks. I followed
this about one hundred feet, which brought me to an aperture that
rose nearly perpendicular from where I stood, till lost in gloom
which our feeble lights failed to penetrate. About twenty feet
above me there were two apertures leading in different directions,
but these I could not enter without other aid.
About a verst lower down the river I explored another cavern :
the external opening was small, and the gallery low and narrow.
Taking four men with me, and each of us having a bundle of long
pieces of split pine, we entered the narrow gallery extending into
the mountain about 120 paces, when it opened into a cavern very
irregular in form, but of large dimensions, and branched off in two
direotions. We turned into the left branch, which in some places
was eight, and in others twelve paces wide, and about forty or
fifty feet high. This terminated in a large cleft almost filled up
with fallen rocks, that stopped our further progress. The floor
was perfectly dry, and this portion was 143 paces long. I now
turaed into the right branch, and found it mjioh larger ; in some
parts the width was twenty paces, in others considerably more.
With our lights I could not see the roof. We went on about 300
paces farther, and then found the floor covered with fallen blocks
of limestone, some of large size. Huge buttresses jutted from the
sides ofthe cavern, forming deep recesses; these I examined, but
found no openings. After scrambling over the fallen rooks, we
reached a smooth floor ; here the width was about nine paces : it
was a cleft in the mountain, with a sharp angular roof. A little
beyond' this point it tumed to the right, and ended in a narrow
chasm, down which came tumbling a small waterfall, our light
making the spray sparkle like diamonds. The chasm was very
deep; I threw in several stones, and could hear them bound from
side to side for several seconds. This point is between 500 and
600 paces from the entrance. I found neither stalactites nor
animal remains : the floors are dry limestone.
Not far below these caverns I found a mass of rock under which
a man was buried when it fell from the high pine-fringed cliffs
above. It is a solitary spot, well suited to such a tragic event.
At the foot of the cliffs there is a small plot of fine green sward,
and in the middle stands the fatal stone that first crushed its
victim deep into his grave, and now remains immovable as his

38 OUR ENCAMPMENT.
monument. This place is seldom visited : the bear and the wolf
rest here unmolested.
I had plenty of employment for my pencil to-day, having met
with many attractive scenes. Pulling the boat ashore, my traps
were taken out and carried a short distance into the forest to some
large pine-trees, where they were piled up to keep off the cold
blast. A large fire was soon kindled, whioh rendered our berth
exceedingly comfortable. Presently the singing of the tea-kettle
was heard above the crackling of the logs, and in due course
followed a most appetizing repast, to whioh a basket of cold game,
placed in the boat by my thoughtful friends, largely contributed.
After this I took my rifle, and rambled into the forest to some
distance from our encampment, but found no game. I, however,
beheld what was more agreeable to me, flowers pushing through
the thick brown grass — the first indications I had met with of
spring, and I hailed them with delight.
IMy crew, having also enjoyed themselves, were singing merrily.
I listened for a while to their songs, then wrote up my journal
by the light of our blazing fire, drank off a goblet of Ouralian
wine, wrapped myself in my cloak, and, lying down, with my
feet toward the glowing embers, passed away into the land of
dreams. At dawn of day I awoke, thoroughly refreshed after my flrst
night's sleep in the open air. Bly people were lying round the
fire, evidently enjoying peaceful slumbers. I pioked up a log and
threw it on the embers ; this roused them, and in a few minutes
they were all in motion. A part of them commenced making up
the fire, one started with the kettle to the river for water, and
another began spreading my tea-things on the brown pward. My
breakfast was soon ready; it did not detain me long, and I
returned to the boat.
From this point I found the river had lost its rugged character;
it was now winding through a forest of pines, birches, and aspens,
which grew to the water's edge. In many parts thick masses of
underwood covered the ground, extending apparently for many
miles up the mountain sides. Toward noon we stopped for dinner,
and then pushed on up a mountain torrent. Having walked
dlong the bank more than an hour, and found no point worth
/sketching, I returned to my boat, and again descended the stream.
At eight o'clock we arrived at Outkinska-Demidoff, a pristan

VALLEY OF THE TCHOUSSOWAIA. 39
belonging to the works at Tagilsk, where the whole produce of
Demidoff's mines is put on board the barks, and forwarded to
Nijne-Novgorod and St. Petersburg.
At this port the valley of the Tehoussowaia extends from two
to three versts in width. On the west bank of the river there is
a considerable extent of meadow-land ; on the eastern side the
land is partly cultivated, and a fine crop of rye was springing up.
This is a warm and sheltered situation, having high wooded hills
to the north, which keep off the cold and cutting blasts from that
quarter. The meadows looked beautifully green, and were already
adorned with many flowers, and the birch-trees bursting into leaf
every hour. The change in this region from winter to summer
is so rapid that it seems almost magical. Last night, for example,
I slept on grass browned by the frost, under trees showing no
buds ; to-night I could take up my quarters beneath birches half
in leaf, and awake to-morrow morning under a splendid green
canopy. The change is so delightful, I have already decided to spend
to-morrow (Sunday) at this place.
This is a glorious moming — a bright sun, and a sky without a
cloud, while a gentle breeze is wafting the sweet scents from the
larch and birch trees, now almost in full leaf. Still I see in the
distance large masses of snow stretching along the mountain sides,
and extending down into the forests, which tell me winter is not
yet past. The Outka is a small mountain stream flowing into the
Tehoussowaia at this place. I determined to take a long walk
up its banks, toward the mountains, as this would take me in the
direction of the higher ridge of the Oural. The small open
valley in which the little stream winds its course extends north
ward about two versts, and is then lost in the forest.
Along this valley my walk was exceedingly agreeable. I found
many flowers quite new to me, and collected specimens for drying.
Having entered the forest, these was a great change : large
patches of snow were lying under the trees, and in some places
the remains of drifts covered up the brook, giving a very wintry
appearance to the scene. I was soon plunged to the knees in a
morass ; and, getting out of it, gave up my morning ramble.
These valleys can only be examined later in the summer, when
the snow has melted and the water has drained off.
I returned to the pristan by another path, and gathered other

40 A LIGHT COSTUME.
flowers to add to my collection. I had not been long in my room
when the men came in a body, and begged me to go down the
river about fifteen versts this afternoon, and then stay over night.
The spokesman of the party said I should find excellent quarters
at that distance, and everything I could desire ; besides which,
our voyage on Monday would be a very long one. The reason
assigned had great weight with me ; and being anxious to arrive
early in the morning at a part of the river whioh had been
described as the best scenery on the Tehoussowaia, I consented
to go on. We left Outkinska-Demidoff at five o'clock, dropping
sl )wly down the river, no interesting scenery presenting itself on
the way. At seven o'clock we reached Kageka.
My steersman and the boy went with me to a large house
about one hundred paces from the river, into which, after a little
delay, we gained admittance. I was taken into a spacious room
by my chief man, who left me to seek the owner of the apartment
I had thus taken possession of. The room contained four or five
chairs, a long bench placed against the wooden wall, a large table
covered with papers, and a strong arm-chair on one side of the
table, across which lay a pipe long enough for the G-rand Turk.
The room was dirty, heated to 25° R., and redolent of anything
but roses.
After sitting a few minutes, three women of Amazonian
proportions passed through the room. I had just time to notice
that their garments were what might be called scant, scarcely
reaching to the knees. In fact, the dress of each consisted of one
" cuttysark," as Tam O'Shanter would have called it, with a blue
body over ; add to this a red handkerchief tied on the head, and
the costume is complete. The door into the adjoining room was
left open, so that I could see the movements of these very stately
persons, and have them within call ; but, as I had no particular
desire to follow their motions or claim their assistance, I remained
quiet. In about half an hour my man retumed with the master of the
house, to whom I handed my papers, whioh he examined. I
requested permission to pass the night under his roof, to which he
consented, and, seating himself beside me, called to the women to
bring in tea : this was instantly done, leading me to think that it
had been prepared immediately after my arrival. A friend of my
host's, who had just dropped in, joined our tea-party, and between

SIBERIAN SUPPER. 41
US three glass after glass disappeared from the board. The tea-
drinking continued a long time, whioh gave my two companions
the opportunity of putting a series of questions, few of which I
could understand. They talked very fast, however, and I listened
attentively, saying (" Dah I" " Neate .'") Yes or No, in Russian,
as the case appeared to require. At length I got tired of this,
and began an oration in English, speaking as fast as I could, by
whioh I got the advantage, for they ceased immediately. But
the moment I left off addressing the chair, one or other began to
catechise me again. As a last resort, I was driven to try some
snatches of poetry, which fairly silenced them.
About ten o'clock supper was announced as ready for us in
another room. I was taken through a bed-room to the supper-
table, and in passing beheld one of the bare-legged females
stretched full-length on the floor, covered up for the night. On
coming to the table, one of these damsels placed before us a large
basin of soup and three spoons, intimating that I must try my
luck in the same dish. I could endure hunger for a long
time, could eat black bread and salt without difficulty, but take
broth with my two friends from the same soup-bowl I could not.
The next course — a great number of boiled eggs — suited me
better; from these I managed to make a good supper. My
companions drank a large quantity of wodhy, and tried to induce
me to follow their example, but I declined. Leaving them, I
went to my room, where I found nothing better to sleep on than
a wooden bench. I, however, was used to hard fare and hard
beds, and content with whatever turned up.
I was up at half past four o'clock this morning, had one cup of
tea, without either bread or milk, and at five o'clock was floating
down the river, which here winds through a more open valley,
with meadow-land along its banks. At twelve we reached another
gorge, through which the river runs, in some places very rapidly.
On one side of the entrance into this rocky scene a small plot of
level land extends along the water, about 300 yards by about 25
yards wide, from the latter to the forest, where it rises very
abmptly iu broken masses of rook, covered with flowering shrubs
and bushes. There are also larches, pines, and birches growing
out of the clefts. On the opposite side of the river, rocky masses
rise from the water to a great height, nearly perpendicular, their
summits crowned with a fine growth of the pine and birch.

42 A LUNCH. — EARTHQUAKE. — YERMAK.
Near the centre of this little glade stands a simple cross, raised
on three steps, which excites at once the curiosity of the traveller.
It was erected to mark the site on which the great-grandfether of
the present Prince Demidoff first saw the light. His mother, on
her way down the River Tehoussowaia, in a bark along with
those_ which were conveying the produce of the mines to Russia,
was prevailed on to encamp here for the night. Perhaps a more
appropriate spot could not have been found for the birth-place of
one who was destined to become, in after years, a powerful agent
in the development of the mineral wealth of these vast regions.
A strip of canvas sheltered the new-born infant, and protected
alike the mother and her child from the inclemency of the season.
It was he who subsequently, by superior genius and indefatigable
industry, left imperishable monuments of his greatness in the
different works established by him in many parts of the Oural.
While I was sketching this scene, my men were tapping the
birch-trees and drawing off the sap. Having finished my labors,
I sat down on a rock, and my steersman brought me a piece of
black bread with a little salt, and a bottle of sap drawn from a
tree near the cross — a sweeter morsel or a better draught I thought
I had never tasted.
We continued our voyage, and in about an hour I stopped to
sketch another fine scene — some isolated masses of rock standing
in the bed of the river. This was the last of twenty-eight sketches
I had made on the Tehoussowaia. While at work I observed that
there were -|- 18° R. in the shade at half past two o'clock — a
wonderful change within the last few days. After descending the
stream, now running through a thickly-wooded forest, we arrived
at Cynowskoi Zavod, iron-works belonging to Count Strogonoff.
Here I found excellent quarters in the house of a gentleman who
spoke German, with whom I spent a most agreeable evening.
The earthquake which occurred on the 15th of April, was felt
severely at these works. A terrible growling sound, like subter-
ranean thunder at a great depth under ground, was instantly
followed by a violent motion of the earth, causing great alarm to
every one. I was told that the horses trembled as it passed.
It was from this Zavod, and under the protection of the Strog-
onoffs, who then possessed nearly all this region, that Yermak the
Cossack commenced his expedition for the conquest of Siberia.
His battle-fields are on the other side of the Oural ; but it was at

A NEW WINE. — SNOW-STORM. — SEREBRIANSKOI. 43
this place, and in the caravans on the Tehoussowaia, that he found
a safe retreat after his first _defeats in Asia.
During the night the water in the Tehoussowaia had risen three
feet, caused by the snow melting so rapidly yesterday, and appa
rently it will be still warmer to-day. I was induced to remain and
visit the works in this Zavod. A great quantity of wire, both
strong and fine, is drawn here, which produces a very good price
in the fair at Novgorod on account of its superior quality. Bar-
iron is also made. After visiting the iron mines we returned to
the house of my host, and sat down to an excellent dinner, well
cooked and well served. It would be impossible in England to
give the different varieties of game placed on the table. We had
also English porter, Scotch ale, and Champagne, with several sorts
of Ouralian wine ; of the last I tasted one kind for the first time
made from cedar-nuts : it equalled the best Maraschino.
A great change had taken place in the weather : at four o'clock
there were — 5° R. with a strong wind ; at five I left the Zavod,
and away we went at a good speed down the river. It was
exceedingly cold, with dark clouds rolling over the tops of the
mountains ; in less than half an hour we had a tremendous snow
storm, which gave to everything a winter clothing, and rendered
my last day's voyage on the Tehoussowaia cold and unpleasant.
After sitting nine hours in an open boat, the snow falling the
whole time, we arrived at Oslanskoi at two o'clock in the morning.
Such are the ohanges of temperature in this region, and I am told
this will not be the last of the winter.
The river has a most tortuous course, winding about among the
mountains in a very singular manner. It has happened to- me
more than once that, after descending it sixty or seventy versts, I
have found, on inquiry, that the place I started from in the mom
ing was not more than sixteen or twenty versts distant across the
mountains. Having finished my voyage on the Tehoussowaia,
my men were obliged to return home. I parted with them on
excellent terms ; a few rubles had rendered them happy, and
kissing my hand, they all declared they would go anywhere with
me. At three o'clock I left Oslanskoi in a carriage; the road,
passing through a thick forest, was bad, owing to the fall of snow
which lay deep on the ground. At five I found myself comfort
ably lodged in new quarters at the house of the director of the
iron-works in Serebrianskoi, a Zavod belonging to the crown on
the small river Serebrianka.

44 PICTURESQUE SCENERY. — A SOUVENIR.

CHAPTER IV.
ASCENT OF THE KATCHKANAR.
A LARGE lake has been made at great expense by a very high
embankment across this little valley, by which water-power is
obtained for the iron-works. About fifteen versts below Sere
brianskoi the river runs through a deep, narrow, and winding
ravine, containing some very picturesque scenery, which furnished
me with several subjects for my pencil. Both the Tehoussowaia
and Serebrianka also afford many highly interesting studies to the
geologist, by the numerous sections of strata exposed in these
rugged defiles, the characteristics of which are well described by
Sir R. I. Murchison.*
I shall now bid farewell to the Tehoussowaia and to Europe,
and cross the Oural into Asia, where my wanderings will be far
and wide. Still, I carry along with me many pleasing recollec
tions of this region, and the kind people I found there. I have a
remembrance also of a different sort, occasioned by a cut on my
knee from a fall among the rocks of this wild river, which it
seems likely I shall retain through life.
During my stay in Serebrianskoi, the director, who was a great
sportsman, wished to give me a day's repohiok (tree-partridge)
shooting. It was arranged that we should start early in the morn-

* See his valuable work, " The Geology of the Oural." He speaks also of
their picturesque beauties in terms of Mgh praise at page 125 : " No description
of the geologist, still less a mere sectional drawing, cau convey an adequate
idea of the contortions and pictorial beauty of these wild gorges. The flexures
on the Meuse, may, in some respects, be compared with them, but the channel
of the Tehoussowaia being narrower, the rocks more rugged, and diversified
with foliage, and the defiles highly intricate, the Russian scene appeared to
us more striking thau that in Belgium." Again at page 388 ; " A more
picturesque river gorge was certainly never examined by geologists. Between
the hamlet of Kinish and Ust-Koiva, we passed through scenes even surpassing
in beauty those higher up the stream, and to which it would require the pencil
of a professed artist to do justice. The river runs in a. limestone gorge, in
which are clifi"s of every variety of form, occasionally exposing large cavern?
along their vertical faces, with trees and flowers grouped about in the clefts —
rocks varying in color from black to white."

REPCHICK SHOOTING. — DESCENT INTO ASIA. 45
ing, as a few hours before ten o'clock, and in the evening after
four, are the best times to find this game. We were both armed
with pea-rifles, with which they are usually shot when sitting on
the branches. Each sportsman is provided with a quill, formed
into a whistle, and with this he imitates so well the call of the
birds that they instantly respond. By this means they are easily
found in the thick forest, and fly from tree to tree, always
approaching their supposed mate, when they shortly find their
way int6 the game-bag. A good woodsman was appointed to attend
me, who imitated them with so muoh success that we soon had
numbers on the trees around us, affording me plenty of sport. He
was also my instructor in the use of the whistle, which I learned,
and before the day's shooting was over had employed successfully.
In after times this accomplishment enabled me to obtain many a
meal I could not otherwise have procured. When I met the
director at the appointed place for dinner, I had ten brace and a
half, and he turned out sixteen brace of repchicks and a black
cock. He considered that mine was good sport, but his own was
usually better.
When I left Serebrianskoi, the director and several other friends
accompanied me a few versts on the road to a place in the forest
where tea and other good things had been provided, that we might
take our leave in the true Siberian fashion. The eating and drink
ing being over, we shook hands and parted. I then continued
my journey toward the orest of the Oural. The country across
this part of the chain has no striking features : there are no rugged
mountain summits to break the monotony of the well-rounded hills
covered with pine and larch. Some of the valleys are cultivated,
and the new-grown rye was now looking fresh and green. I found
many flowers I had not seen before, which I added to my collec
tion. At three o'clock I stood on the summit of the chain : it
did not rise to a great elevation, and no very extensive views are
seen from this portion of the road ; but the whole of these rounded
summits are clothed with a luxuriant growth of pines of different
varieties. The descent into Asia is somewhat more abrupt than
would be the descent to the European side. The country between
Serebrianskoi and Barantchinsk is exoeedingly plain and uninter
esting, but on approaching to within ten or fifteen versts of
Kooshwinsk the scenery improves.
During the latter part of this journey I was suffering much

46 A RUSSIAN BATH.
from my knee ; I also began to feel the effects of a violent cold,
caught during the stormon the Tehoussowaia, and was apprehen
sive that I should be laid up with a fever. On entering the
director's room after my arrival at the Zavod, noticing my
indisposition, he immediately ordered tea ; his next step was to
send for a physician. In the course of half an hour the latter
arrived, and, seeing the condition I was in, directed that I should
at once go to bed, while a Russian bath should at once be prepared
for me. This was commencing business in earnest. In due time
the bath was got ready, to which I was carried by two sturdy
Cossacks. Having laid aside my last clothing, the body-guard
placed me on the top shelf of the bath-room, within an inch of the
furnace, if I may so call it, and there steamed- me till I thought
my individuality well-nigh gone. After about forty minutes of
drubbing and flogging with a bundle of birch twigs, leaf and all,
till I had attained the true color of a well-done crawfish, I was taken
out, and treated to a pail of cold water, dashed over me from head
to foot, that fairly electrified me. I found myself quite exhausted
and helpless, in whioh condition I was carried back to bed. I
had scarcely lain down ten minutes when a Cossack entered with
a bottle of physic of some kind or other, large enough apparently
to supply a regiment. The doctor followed instead of preceding
the apothecary, and instantly gave me a dose. Seeing that I
survived the experiment, he ordered the man in attendance to
repeat it every two hours during the night. Thanks to the
Russian bath, and possibly the quantity of medicine I had to
swallow, the fever was forced, after a straggle of eight days, to
beat a retreat.
At the expiration of this time a returning desire for green fields
and mountain scenery convinced me that I might safely resume
my journey, which I was soon enabled to do.
The director of the iron-works at Nijne Toura arrived in
Kooshwinsk. This morning we dined at the same table, and on
my name being mentioned he addressed me : "I have received
instmctions to aid you in visiting the Katchkanar. If you will
take a place in my carriage to-night to Nijne Toura, I will then
make arrangements for you to ascend the mountain, which is about
120 versts from here." Although still very weak, I gladly accepted
this kind offer, and presently we started on our way to the Zavod
of Tourinsk with five horses and two drivers at great speed.

MOUNTAIN SCENE. i7
To this place it was a short and pleasant drive of nine versts
along the valley of the Toura. Large laljes have been made in
this valley, which supply the water-power to the iron-works. It
was a most splendid evening ; the sun went down below the Oural
Mountains, tinging everything with his golden hues. From one
part of the road we had a view of the Katchkanar, and some other
mountain summits to the north, clearly defined against the deep
yellow sky in a blue-gray misty tone ; a nearer range of hills was
purple as seen through a misty vapor rising from the valleys ;
while nearer to us rose some thickly-wooded hills, their outlines
broken by rocky masses of a deep purple color. From these to
the lake in the valley there is a dense forest of dark pines,
gradually sloping down to the water, and now partially lost in the
deep shadow. The lake reflected the sky in all its golden splendor,
giving a deeper tone to surrounding objects, and rendering more
obscure the dark forest beyond it.
We remained two hours with the officers in Tourinsk, where
we supped, and at eleven o'clock were once more gallopping along
toward our destination. My companion was soon fast asleep. He
had gone over this road so often that no charms were left for him.
With me the case was different ; eaoh step in advance presented
some agreeable novelty, consequently I watched every turning of
the road with great interest. At some points I had a distant view
of parts of the Oural chain, at others a peep over those intermin
able forests which clothe the lower range of hills, now seen by me
for the first time under the effect of the peculiar twilight of these
regions, where at this season it is never dark. A partial gloom
and solemn stillness as of death spread over these scenes, filling
me with strange sensations. All nature seemed wrapped in
eternal sleep, which I almost feared to disturb by the rattling of
our wheels.
We had now entered a forest region which led us up high hills,
then down into deep valleys filled with white vapor, through which
the tops of lightning-blasted pines stood out like the shivered
masts of a wreck above the sea. A little lower, and all was lost
in fog and indistinctness, which checked our speed, moistened
and chilled me. Then again we emerged from the misty cloud,
and gallopped up another wooded height, from the summit of
whioh I saw the Katchkanar looming over the forest beneath,
and apparently quite near, although fifty or sixty versts distant.

48 MASS OF SYENITE. — MUSQUITOES.
From this point we began to descend rapidly into the valley of
the Toura. Here my companion woke up and pointed out the
Zavod. All was calm and still in the town, which stands on the
south side of the lake, while below and near the rock named
" Shaitan," to the north, there were continuous clouds of black
smoke, through whioh tongues of flame and a long line of sparks
shot up high into the pure air : these, and the heavy rolling of
the forgehammers that now broke on our ears, are truly character
istic of this igneous region. After crossing the head of the
lake, we were in a short time snugly seated in the director's
house. Nijne Toura is a Zavod belonging to the crown, in whioh a
large quantity of excellent bar-iron is made from the magnetic
ores of Blagodat. It is beautifully situated on the shore of a
large lake formed in the valley of the Toura, from which the fall
for the water-power used in the iron-works is obtained. On the
north side of this fine sheet of water a large rugged mass of
pinkish-colored rock, " said to be true syenite," rises 350 to 360
feet high, possessing some remarkable magnetic qualities; one
small space of only a few feet in extent was pointed out to me,
on which the needle of a compass will turn round. To the east
and west of this bare mass there are luxuriant pine and larch
woods, extending down into the valley.
The director informed me that it will require a few days to
make the necessary preparations for my journey through the
forest to the Katchkanar, which has induced me to make some
sketches in the valley of the Toura, more particularly on the lake.
There are two or three points whence the Katchkanar is seen
rising high above all the other mountains, presenting his ragged
crest sometimes against a deep blue sky, at others encircled by
clouds black as night.
I found a fine view from the forest at the head of the lake,
about eight versts distant from the Zavod. This I determined
to sketch, although the musquitoes were here in millions. Our
horses had been taken to some high ground clear of wood, where
the wind compels these pests to seek shelter from the breeze :
they are now taking a most savage revenge upon me for their
loss. I have tried various means to keep them at a distance, in
vain. The last plan I adopted is one much used by the wood
men : it consists of a small sheet iron box, seven inches long,

STORM AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 49
four wide, and five deep, with small holes pierced in the bottom.
This is secured to a leather strap, whioh passes over the shoulder,
atd lets it hang down like a soldier's cartridge-box, at the back
of the hip. Some hot charcoal is placed in the bottom, and
upon this moist decayed wood, which smoulders and keeps up a
cloud of smoke that drives off the bloodthirsty insects. Although
successful enough, I soon found that it was, if anything, a little
worse than the evil it was intended to avert. Indeed, the
continued smoke affected my eyes to such a degree that I could
not see to sketch : many of the woodmen suffer from the same
cause. I was obliged, therefore, to abandon the smoking process,
at the risk of being devoured.
About a verst below the Zavod, I found another good view,
which I sketched from some rocks at the west end of Shaitan,
where I could look over the valley of the Toura to the Katch
kanar. At this point the river vrinds through meadow-land,
twisting and turning in every direction. Fine clumps of birch
and pine trees skirt its banks. From the opposite side of this
narrow valley to the Katchkanar, there appeared to be one dense
forest, covering all the lower range of hills. While sketching, I
perceived a sudden change at the Katchkanar; clouds began to
collect around the summit, sweeping downward till the whole
mountain was enveloped in a shroud of inky blackness, presenting
here and there on its dark ground whitish streaks, as if jets of
steam had been forced up from below. Part of the lower chain
soon became obscured also by clouds, which showed signs of
much inward commotion. Meanwhile the advancing storm put
on its most threatening look. I could now see the lightmng,
flash on flash, stream from the clouds to earth, but heard no
thunder. After about an hour the storm tumed toward the
south and followed the mountain chain, leaving me in calm and
sunshine to pursue my occupation. It was not long before the
Katchkanar became visible, and the sun was once more shining
upon these riven crags.in all his splendor.
On Sunday morning, an Englishman who has the direction of
some large iron-works on the west side of the Oural, near Perm,
arrived in Nijne Toura. He had heard at Serebrianskoi (115
versts distant) that I was gpi^g ^tQ ascend the Katchkanar, and
particularly desired to accompany me, to which I made no objec
tion. During the week three other gentlemen decided to go with
4

50 FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. — A QUICKSAND.
me. All was arranged ; but when we met at dinner to-day, and
I told them we should leave for the Katchkanar at eight o'clock
to-morrow moming, they made excuses, and finally gave up the
journey, not one apparently having courage to attempt difficulties
thoy had often heard described.
At the appointed time the horses were brought into the yard,
accompanied by three men. One was a sturdy old hunter, about
fifty years of age, who had been selected on account of his know
ledge of the forests we had to ride through ; the two others were
younger men — one quite tall, with a good manly countenance;
his comrade a shorter man, with a good-natured, smiling face
nothing could put out of humor. Each carried a rifle slung
across his shoulder. My companion from the West Oural was a
thin, spare man, capable of enduring any fatigue, who had been
accustomed to Ouralian life about seven years. He feared
neither storms nor forests, and cared no more for a bear than he
would for a stray pig. He had a perfect dread, however, of the
insect tribe which feast on blood.
For the first eight versts we travelled over a moderately good
road, whioh brought us to a small stream not more than sixty feet
wide. The bridge had been carried away by the ice, and was
lpng partly across the stream a little farther down, but this it was
impossible to cross. One of my men rode into the stream and
crossed very well, but as he attempted to ascend the opposite
bank his horse sunk under him till nearly overhead ; the other
men hastened to his assistance, orossing the stream as he had
done, but their horses got fast also, which prevented them from
giving any aid. Seeing how matters were likely to end, I sprang
from my horse, throwing the reins to my companion, ran to the
wreck of the bridge, and managed with great difficulty to get
across. I found my man in a complete quicksand, in which I
also was near sinking. Fortunately, he was not indifferent to the
liiW of self-preservation ; for tying a cord of sufficient length to
Ilis bridle, he tossed the end of it to me, and by this means I was
enabled to get both horse and rider on to solid ground. As he waa
shivering with cold, I gave him a tumbler of raw wodky ; some
one flung a sheepskin over him, and everything being put in good
condition again, we rode on.
At a short distance from this place we entered a thick forest,
pas.sing through it for several versts; at length we rode out into

DENSE POREST. 5]
a beautiful glade, and on the opposite side, at no great distance,
beheld a man approaching on horseback, at sight of whom the men
instantly exclaimed, " Egor Stepanish has killed a bear." When
we met, I observed a fine black skin hanging over his horse. He
had been watching the greater part of the night for the bear, who
did not come ; and shortly after daylight, giving up all hopes of
meeting him for that time, had left his hiding-place to return to
his horse, which 'had been secured in the forest. He had not
gone far, however, when, while passing a huge lump of rock, the
bear stood before him at twenty yards distance. The rifle was
instantly unslung, the prongs in the ground, and the deadly weapon
levelled, while Bruin, apparently no way alarmed, rose upon his
hind legs and marched on, intent upon a grapple. When within
fifteen paces the fatal ball was sent on its mission, and the shaggy
monster fell dead, the skin adding one more trophy to the spoils
of Egor.
About two versts farther we came to a broad and rapid river,
apparently not very deep. There being no means of getting over
the stream except by fording it, we plunged boldly in, and soon
found the water, which was extremely cold, up to our boots, and
frequently as high as our knees : happily it proved no deeper.
We shortly reached the opposite shore and struck into the forest,
pursuing a mere track, along which we proceeded slowly, some
times nearly up to the saddle-flaps in mud and water, at others
riding over large stones and trunks of trees, which lay across the
path in every direction.
This was a most dreary ride — nothing but dense forest, without
a single opening to afford so much as a glimpse of the surrounding
country. Toward noon we had a thunder-storm, which echoed
loudly through the forest, accompanied by heavy rain. Some
large Siberian cedars afforded us shelter during the storm, which
continued more than an hour. When it was over we rode on, but
were soon completely drenched by the droppings from the trees.
Portions of the forest were so thick that the light of day waa
entirely excluded ; indeed, it was frequently necessary to cut our
way through the branches, which rendered our progress very
slow. Although there are many bears and other dangerous animals in
these wilds, strange to say we did not meet with any. Our great
risk was a fall in the midst of rocks and prostrate trees, which

52 THE KATCHKANAR.
might be attended with painful consequences. After a while our
veteran hunter, who became a sort of leader of the party, left the
track we had been pursuing for some time, and struck off toward
the southwest. Forcing our way through thick underwood for
about an hour, we eraerged at last from the dark forest at the foot
of a steep ascent overlaid with huge blocks of stone. Rough as
this appeared, it was more agreeable than the woods and morass
we had been floundering in for so many hours. Both patience
and great care were required in riding up this rugged hill. As we
ascended the height, we heard the roaring of water, and supposed
by the sound there must be a fall not far distant. From the great
noise we expected to find a large stream; but, on approaching, it
turned out to be a small one, tumbling down a steep and rocky
bed in a succession of snow-like waterfalls. This we had to cross :
no very pleasant prospect, as a false step might pitch both horse
and rider into the foaming water. Our steeds, however, stepped
carefully, placing one foot firmly down before lifting the other.
The difficulty being soon overcome, we continued our course
upward, and at eight o'clock reached the Katchkanar, after a
tedious ride of eleven hours on horseback. The old hunter pro
posed stopping for the night at the foot of some high rocks : this
I was not unwilling to do, and accordingly we dismounted, wet
and stiff enough. All hands set to work and made a great fire,
which blazed up fiercely. After this I gave each man a glass of
brandy, my companion and myself taking a little also to qualify
the water we had received during our ride. The musquitoes
being here in abundance, my friend took his post on the smoky
side of the fire, obstinately refusing to leave it on any account.
Although tired, I could not rest without taking a look at the
upper part of the mountain. Seizing my rifle, I began to ascend
the rocks, and in about half an hour stood on their summit.
When there, a most rugged scene burst upon my view : the jagged
top of the Katchkanar was towering far above into the deep blue
vault of heaven ; the rocks and snow were tinged by the setting
sun ; while lower down stood crags overtopping pine and cedar
trees, and lower still, a thick forest sloped along till lost in gloom
and vapor.
I now tumed toward the west, and walked to a high crac over
looking the valley ; hore I seated myself to watoh the great and
fiery orb descend below the horizon, and a glorious sight it was.

MUSQUITOES. 53
Pavda, with its snowy cap, was lighted up, and sparkled like a
ruby; the other mountains were tinged with red, while in the
deep valleys all was gloom and mist. For a few minutes the
whole atmosphere appeared filled with powdered carmine, giving
a deep crimson tint to everything around. So splendid was this
effect, and so firm a hold had it taken of my imagination, that I
became insensible to the hundreds of musquitoes that were feast
ing on my blood. Excepting their painfully disagreeable hum,
no sound, not even that of the chirping of a bird, was to be
heard : it was truly solitude.
Soon after the sun went down a white vapor began to rise in
the valleys to a considerable height, giving to the scene an appear
anoe of innumerable lakes studded with islands, as all the moun
tain tops looked dark and black. I was so riveted to the spot
by the scene before me that I remained watching the changes
until near eleven o'clock, when that peculiar twilight seen in
these regions stole gently over mountain and forest. The effect
1 cannot well describe; it appeared to partake largely of the
spiritual. I now thought it was quite time to return to our camp-fire,
and, arriving there a little before twelve o'clock, found the people
sleeping, and my companion lying near the fire, covered over with
a cloak, as he said, " to keep the devils off." He had neither slept
nor dared to look out. The humming sound of millions of mus
quitoes was something awful : the high rocks sheltered them from
the wind, so that we soon found we had got into the very regions
of torment. As it was utterly impossible to endure this, I pro
posed to remove our encampment to the top of the rocks, where
the current of air might relieve us of our tormentors, and let us
rest in peace; this was at once acceded to by all. So, taking up
a burning brand, I clambered to a spot a little higher up, where
I pitched on a desirable location. I soon had a fire blazing,
having selected the neighborhood of plenty of fallen timber, and
the men came round with the horses and our traps. In this
plaoe, where the breeze kept fanning us, not a musquito dared
show his proboscis.
Once more settled down, we found time to be hungry, and
accordingly ordered tea. Who could paint our despair when the
men proclaimed that there was neither tea, nor a kettle to boil
water, both having been left behind ! We had plenty of provi-

54 SUNRISE ON THE MOUNTAINS."
sions, with brandy and Ouralian nalifka, and these enabled us to
make a meal. There is, however, nothing which can be com
pared to the beverage "that cheers but not inebriates," and
makes the traveller supremely comfortable after a day of hard
toil. We sat talking over our misfortune, and the anticipated
pleasures of the morrow, till past one o'clock, then lay down on
the rocks and wrapped ourselves up for the night; but the joint
effects of wine and smoke had given me a violent headache, which
prevented me sleeping. A little before three o'clock I was up,
and my toilet made by rubbing the smoke out of my eyes, and
giving myself a shake.
Day was rapidly dawning over those boundless forests of Sibe
ria. Long lines of pale yellow clouds extended over the horizon ;
these became more luminous every few minutes, until at length
they were like waves of golden light rolling and breaking on some
celestial shore. I roused up my fellow-traveller, that he might
partake with me in my admiration of the scene, and a most splen
did one it was. The sun was rising behind some very distant
hills, and tipping all the mountain tops with his glorious rays :
even the dark pines assumed a golden hue. We sat silently
watching the beautifully changing scene for an hour, until hill
and valley were Hghted up : my friend could no longer repress his
feelings. " This is a glorious sight !" he exclaimed ; " if it were
not for these d — d musquitoes, I should like to spend a month
here." Having broken our fast with a crust of bread and a glass of
Ouralian, we prepared for our ascent to the summit. Our rifles
were flrst examined, as they might be required should Bruin feel
disposed to dispute our right of way through his domain, this
being his summer residence. All was found right; so strapping
my sketching traps across my back, and with rifle over my shoul
der, we marched off, my old hunter pointing out the way. The
other two men were left in charge of the horses.
A short distance from our encampment we found a confused
ma,ss of rocks thrown about in the wildest disorder, evidently
having tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. Sorae
were of such huge dimensions that it is difficult to comprehend
the colossal power that had hurled them from their rocky beds.
We scrambled over this labyrinth to a small valley; on the other
side of this the Katchkanar reared his jagged crc=t.

SUMMIT OF 'THE KATCHKANAR. 55
This little valley was carpeted with short grass and numerous
plants, in flower or just budding. A month later, and this will
be a garden of iris, geraniums, roses, and peonies, amid scenes of
the wildest grandeur. Here also were growing clumps of mag
nificent pines and Siberian cedars (^Pinus cembra). From a high,
decayed branch of one, I brought down with my rifle a " glucka-
ree" — a splendid male bird, which my old hunter said weighed
thirty pounds : there are many of them in this region. Having
reloaded, we proceeded across the valley, and then began the real
ascent. It was a chaotic mass of large loose rocks, with snow filling up
many of the cavities ; in other places we passed under huge blocks,
over which it would have been no easy task to climb. Farther
up we met with large patches of snow, and walked over them
without difficulty ; at length we were at the foot of the high crags
of the Katchkanar. We found many of these crags standing up
like crystals, some not less than 100 feet high, composed of regu
lar courses, with pure magnetic iron ore between their beds,
varying from one inch to four inches thick. In some places cubes
or crystals of iron project from the solid rock three and four
inches square : and again, in ofher portions of these rocks the
whole mass seems to be of iron, or some other mineral substance.
I now determined to ascend one of the highest crags. Select
ing one, I put down my rifle and all other things, excepting a
small sketch-book, and commenced climbing. I found it exceed
ingly difficult ; but, after much labor and some risk, I sat on one
of the highest pinnacles with my feet dangling over, in which
position I began writing a note to a friend. The view to the
east, looking into Siberia, is uninterrupted for hundreds of versts,
until all is lost in fine blue vapor. There is something truly grand
in looking over these black and apparently interminable forests, in
which no trace of a human habitation, not even a wreath of smoke,
can be seen to assure us that man is there. Turning to the north^
and about 100 versts distant, Pavdinsky Kamen rises out of the
dark forest (this is one of the highest points in the Oural chain) ;
it is partly covered with snow, and shines like frosted silver in the
bright sun. All the mountains near are blue, purple, and misty,
with a rugged foreground of rocks of great height, broken into
all shapes and forms. In fact, the summit of the Katchkanar
is evidently a mountain in ruins, the softer parts having been

56 HAZARDOUS DESCENT. — LUNCH.
removea or torn away by the hand of Time, leaving the harder
portion, oi vertebrse of the mountain, standing like a huge skele
ton, which, seen at a distance, often assumed the most fantastic
and picturesque shapes.
Having finished my small epistle, and made a few notes in my
journal, I began to descend, which I found much more difficult
than climbing ; indeed, having descended about thirty feet, I was
stopped ; however, by reascending a little, and by taking a turn
round the jutting points of some of the windings of my late "bad
eminence," I got down, to the great joy of both my companions,
who had been much alarmed for me. We now scrambled over
fallen rocks toward the south, every hundred paces bringing us
upon another wild and rugged scene. -After walking, tumbling,
and climbing for about an hour, we turned our steps down the
mountain in a new direction toward our encampment. This
brought us to a large patch of ice and snow, surrounded by fallen
rocks and dwarf pines. The sun was intensely hot ; this and the
fatiguing walk made us both hungry and thirsty. As my hunter
carried in his bag a bottle of Ouralian and some bread, also
brandy for himself, we determined to lunch. A large rock pro
jecting from the snow formed our table and chairs; above us the
high crags of the Katchkanar rose to the height of six hundred
feet. In this solitary spot I commenced a new occupation. I
filled a tumbler nearly full of hard frozen snow, then poured the
strawberry nalifka upon it, and in the course of a very few
minutes it was turned into ice equal to any ever made by Gunter;
our spoons were cut out of a branch, and a delicious dessert re
paid me for my trouble.
Having rested a short time, we continued our descent through
some magnificent rocky scenes. I made several sketches, and at
seven o'clock we were sitting at our camp-fire, having had twelve
hours' hard walking. Later in the evening, the old hunter pre
dicted a change with bad weather before morning, and advised
our moving under the shelter of the rocks below. To this propo
sition we objected, rain or storm being nothing in comparison with
the torments in store for us there. Stooping a little to .listen,
we could hear the everlasting hum of the myriads of insects from
which we had escaped : they would have devoured us. Content
ing ourselves, therefore, with our new position, we lay down on
our exposed and rocky beds, where we slept soundly and in peace

BAD WEATHER. — FESTIVALS. 57
till near three o'clock in the morning, when we were awakened
by a gale of wind, its icy blast making us shiver. Before our
traps were packed we had rain and sleet ; at length our horses
were saddled, and we descended the mountain to seek for shelter
in the forest. At six o'clock we were sitting under some cedars,
completely protected from the storm, before a huge blazing fire.
The wind became stronger and the rain poured down ; the tops
of the mountains were covered with clouds — bad omens in these
regions. My companion and all my men said we should have
some days of bad weather, and urged me to return. I consented,
and at ten o'clock we were on our march back to Nijne Toura,
where we arrived at half past ten o'clock at night, completely
saturated

CHAPTER V.
MINERAL TREASURES OF THE OURAL.
After three days' incessant rain I left Nijne Toura with the
director of the iron-works, and arrived at Kooshwinskoii at nine
o'clock, where I found my former acquaintances assembled for a
dance. It was a name's-day, and the officers had come to Koosh-
winskoi from all the Zavods around. They were, indeed, a gay
party ; dancing was kept up until half past two o'clock, and then
we supped and separated.
Monday was also a great festival at the adjoining Zavod Tou
rinsk, and every one was going there. I received an invitation
to dine, and accepted it with pleasure, intending to make some
sketches on my way. I started early in the morning across the
country, and made two views in the valley of the Toura looking
over the lake to the Oural ; then rode on, and arrived at the Za
vod some hours before dinner : this enabled me to see how the
workmen and their families passed their holidays. Not far from
the iron-works several large swings with boxes were erected, and
many females and children were riding in them. At a little dis
tance the men were wrestling : some got very ugly falls. Each
man stripped off his coat, and tied his long sash tight round his
waist ; this was grasped fast in the right hand of his antagonist,
while the left hand was placed on his shoulder ; then the strug-

58 WRESTLING.
gle began ; the feet, however, were not employed for tripping.
One strong man seemed to be the champion, and laid every one
low who entered the lists against him. Some time passed, and
no one would accept his repeated invitations to take a tumble or
try his prowess. He was in the act of picking up his coat, when
a man stepped into the circle, and said, if no one else accepted the
challenge, he would try one fall. The speaker was much slighter
built, but exceedingly active, and was evidently a stranger. He
was heartily laughed at for his daring, but appeared to enjoy
the mirth he created, and very coolly prepared himself for the
combat. The champion looked at him rather contemptuously;
indeed, from the manner in which he tied on his sash, and eyed
his supposed victim, there seemed a determination. on his part to
give him a terrible "fling." Presently they went at it. The
struggle was a long one — to the great surprise of the spectators.
The wrestler tried every artifice of the craft on his supple oppo
nent, but without effect. He now made a desperate effort to
throw him by his superior strength ; this failed ; in another mo
ment he was laid prostrate on the ground, when a great shout of
joy greeted him from those he had lately defeated. Springing
hastily to his feet, he challenged the victor to another trial ; it
was instantly accepted, and the two men clinched each other
again.' This second struggle was soon over, and the late cham
pion received a second defeat and a most fearful fall. No one
would now risk a contest with the stranger.
In another part of the Zavod the young girls were occupied in
more peaceful games. They were in groups, dressed in their holi
day costume, of very bright colors, which was pleasing and pic
turesque. Others were walking round them with their hands
linked together, singing very plaintive songs; indeed, many of
these melodies were extremely beautiful. Near these several
young women were engaged in another game ; they had a small
plank or board, about seven feet long, placed on a block in the
centre, six inches high. Two girls play at this game, one at each
end, standing upright. One springs up and alights again on the
board; the force of her descent causes her companion to spring
higher every time. I have seen a couple continue this game for
twenty ijiinutes, standing perfectly straight, and bounding up
three feet, and three feet six inches. This play, whioh requires
a Uttle practice, is quite a pretty one, as well as a healthful exer-

BLAGODAT. 59
cise. The day was very fine, and I was much interested with
their rura pastimes, whioh reminded me of sports on the village
green in the days of my childhood.

GIRLS PLATIKO AT SKAKIET.
1 remained several days sketching in the vicinity of Koosh-
winskoi, as there are many points highly interesting to both the
geologist and artist. The two hills, named the Great and Little
Blagodat, are the most remarkable ; the Great Blagodat is about
twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea.
During the last century large quantities of magnetic iron ore
have been extracted from this place; and it has been clearly
proved by Helmersen, and other mining engineers, from the ap
pearance of fissures on the sides of these hills, that there have
been two distinct eraptions of magnetic ore in this place ; and,
further, that the first great masses of this ore have since been cut
through, and intersected by similar matter.
Blagodat rises considerably above the Zavod and the surround
ing country. To the north and west the Oural Mountains are
seen at a distance of sixty or eighty versts ; to the south and east
there is a flat country, covered with dense forests, extending for
several thousand versts toward and into Eastern Siberia, over
which the eye searches in vain for some indication of the resi-

60 storm among the mountains.
dence of man : nothing but dark pine-trees and a few small lakes
are seen.
One of my sketching expeditions was to Blagodat. I started
at eight o'clock in the morning in an open carriage, and was driven
to within half a verst of the summit ; from this point I sent the
servant back to the Zavod, with orders to return for me at seven
in the evening, as I had decided to devote the whole day to sketch
ing in this remarkable region. After ascending a short distance,
I found a point which afforded a very good view, and in a little
time I was occupied in transferring the scene to my paper, all the
while a clear blue sky and a bright sun shining over my head.
About ten o'clock I fancied that I heard something like the rum
bling of distant thunder, but above me all was so clear and sunny
that I concluded this must be fancy, and went on with my work.
Shortly, however, I heard the sounds again, a little more distinct
than before ; this induced me to ascend a high rock, from which
I saw, sure enough, at a great distance, a storm gathering in the
southeast, casting, as it approached, a dark shadow over the whole
landscape. After watching it a short time, I conjectured it would
pass to the east without disturbing me, and so, letting myself
down to the plaoe where I had begun sketching, I resumed my
labor, listening betimes to the thunder, which seemed approaching
nearer every moment. In about two hours the distant part of
the view I was sketching became enveloped in thick clouds, down
which slanting lines of a lighter shade, cutting the bosom of the
dark mass of vapor, showed that it had burst in a deluge of rain.
Several storms passed without touching me, till about two o'clock,
when some large drops suggested that it would be pradent to seek
shelter from the coming tempest as soon as possible. On the
summit of the great Blagodat there is a small wooden chapel and
a tomb erected to the memory of a Vogul chief, " Tchumpin,"
who was sacrificed and burned on these metallic rooks by his fero
cious countrymen as a penalty for his crime in discovering the
mines of magnetic iron-ore to the Russians. A more appropriate
spot could not have been selected for this horrible immolation. The
summit of Blagodat is seen as far as the eye can reach, and when
the smoke of that fearful sacrifice curled up around it in black
and crimson wreaths, thousands of these wild men made the hills
and rocks resound with shouts of vengeance and execration.
To these bloodstained rooks I ascended, and placed my sketches

DREADFUL TEMPEST. 61
and colors in the chapel, a small octagon building about ten feet
in diameter, built to appease the manes of one who is regarded
as a traitor to his race. The rugged igneous rocks on which the
sacrifice was offered up make a more characteristic memorial of
the event than the cast iron urn erected upon them.
Having secured my papers from wet, I proceeded to the edge
of the, rocks, when I perceived that the storm had in its progress
obscured the Oural chain in a thick black mass of clouds tinged
with red, from which the lightning leaped forth in wrathful flashes.
I watched its onward course with intense anxiety, feeling certain
that Blagodat would soon be enveloped in this fearful vapor. For
a few minutes a great dread came over me, knowing that I was
standing alone on a huge mass of magnetic iron far above the sur
rounding country. The thunder echoed among the distant hills
until at length it became one continued roll, every few minutes
bringing the storm nearer. The Zavod was obscured by these
dark and dreadful clouds, completely isolating me from the human
race. In the valley beneath, where I had left my friends, the
vapor appeared billowing and swelling up in huge surges, and in
great commotion. I could also hear the wind roaring over the
forest ; then came a blast, which forced me to cling fast to the
monument of Tchumpin, and made the little chapel tremble to its
base. The cold gust of wind was instantly followed by a terrific
flash of lightning, which struck the rock below me, and tinged
everything with red ; at the same moment a crash of thunder, at
first like the discharge of a brigade, burst into a tremendous roar,
which shook the rocks beneath my feet. The rain now rushed
down in torrents, from which even the little chapel did not afford
me protection, for through its roof the water poured in streams.
This was a truly sublime and awful scene: the lightning and
thunder were incessant; indeed, I saw the rocks struck several
times. The storm undoubtedly revolved round the mountain, no
unfit accompaniment to the dreadful sacrifice once offered up on
its summit. About four o'clock the clouds began to clear off.
The director of the Zavod sent his carriage and some men to seek
me, nor was I sorry to leave the spot. The following day I re
turned, and spent several hours finishing my sketches ; after this
I went into some of the excavations from whioh the iron ore has
been obtained, and then left this singular and interesting plaoe.
My next point of interest was Barantchinsk ; these are iron-

62 NATURAL GARDEN.
works belonging to the crown, about twelve versts from Koosh-
winskoi, standing in a small picturesque' valley near the foot of
" Seene Gora," or Blue Mountain, an elevation which forms a fine
object looking over the valley at Kooshwinskoi from Blagodat.
Seene Gora stands out from the Oural in a ragged and bold mass;
and when seen from a distance appears to be of a deep blue color,
from which it takes its name. It is almost wholly composed of
hornblende. The road to the Zavod runs along a fine valley, in
many parts richly wooded with pine, birch, and larch trees of very
large growth. In some places they are growing singly, in others
they may be seen prettily grouped together; these clumps, with
their variegated foliage, form beautiful objects in the landscape.
The wild roses were now in full blown — some of a deep crimson,
others a pale pink, and some white ; there were also white, yel
low, lilac, and blue anemones covering the ground. The Clematis
Biherira was twining among the leaves, with its pendent and
graceful creamy-white flowers, while under the bushes and in the
shade were CypripcJium calceolus, C. guttatiim, G. macranthum,
C. ventricosum ; these, and the deep orange Trollius Asiaticus,
gave the appearance of a beautiful garden to this valley ; indeed,
it was one of Nature's own planting. My ride to the Zavod was
most agreeable, as well as highly interesting, and enabled me to
add several new flowers to my collection.
The director, an intelligent man, accompanied me over the
works. Here large quantities of shells are made, no expense
being spared in the manufacture of missiles; the cost to the
crown, however, is very great. It is to be regretted that so much
excellent iron should be thrown away on such objects, more espe
cially as it is so much wanted in this country for other — I sup
pose I may say, more useful purposes. During the evening all
was arranged for an excursion to Seene Gora ; and, to give me
a long day for sketching, it was decided we should dine there.
The director, with his wife, several other ladies, and four officers
had determined to have a picnic, and spend the day on the
summit. Our party consisted of four ladies in one telaga, three gentle
men followed in another, with two men and myself on horseback.
Our path was along the bank of the small river Baransha for a
short distance, and then across the valley to a thick wood skirt
ing the foot of the mountain, through which we rode over a good

RAMBLE IN TIIE FOREST. 63
track until we came to an open space with some deep, wet, marshy
ground. Having passed this, we entered another wood, and
found the ground covered with, and our passage blocked by,
large masses of stone fallen from the rocks above, lying in great
confusion. I left my friends, and proceeded forward on horseback, accom
panied by one man. Our ride was among great boulders of rock,
with trees growing around them, and out of the clefts in the large
blocks, often rendering it very difficult to sit our horses, as the
branches almost dragged us to the ground. After an hour's ride
we reached the summit, or plaee of our encampment, where men
sent in advance had cleared a small space, and made a fire, and a
great smoke, to keep off the musquitoes. Having given up my
horse, I walked about a verst to some rugged rocks, rising to a
great height above the valley, quite detached from the precipices.
These formed a fine foreground to the view looking over the
valley toward the Katchkanar, and farther northward along the
Oural chain. I sketched this scene, then returned to our camp,
and found all my friends had arrived and dinner ready : carpets
were spread on the ground, and various dishes served up to
guests whose appetites had been sharpened by the ascent to the
dinner-table. We all did ample justice to the repast.
After this I continued my ramble through the thick forest of
the south, where I found another beautiful view. Here I de
scended a spur of the mountain which juts out into the valley,
and scrambled over a great mass of hornblende and other rocks
into a most rugged ravine, where I made an additional sketch,
exceedingly wild in its character. The dark purple and greenish
metallic colors of these fragments were quite in keeping with a
stormy twilight, aad the deep shades of evening creeping over
the valley beneath. Having finished, I returned to my friends,
who were drinking tea; and when our repast was ended, we began
our descent into the valley. This was rather difficult, owing to
the fallen rocks, which could not well be seen for the darkness of
the thick forest. At length we got to the open ground, placed
the ladies in their telaga, and started them on the track to the
Zavod. One of my men proposed that we should ride across the
valley a muoh nearer way, but we had not ridden half a verst
when we came upon some very marshy ground. Our guide said
it was nothing ; however, we soon found he had lost the track,

64 LIME-TREE HILL.
and a few paces farther were floundering in a deep and dangerous
morass. My horse sunk at once up to the saddle-flaps ; I suc
ceeded in turning his head to some clumps of rough grass, where
I leaped from the saddle. After much difficulty, I dragged my
horse up, and at last out of the fen, but with the loss of a stirrap. -
My two companions did not fare muoh better. Having once more
reached hard ground, we were obliged to retrace our steps, and
now found our guide's short cut was the longest way home ; be
sides which, we were wet and covered with mud. It was past
twelve o'clock when we reached the Zavod, long after our friends
had become comfortable at home.
From this place I desired to cross the Oural to Vissimo Chai
tanskoi, a Zavod belonging to Anatole Demidoff, near the crest
of the Oural, on the western side. In doing this I should have
to ride along the higher ridge of the chain. At ten o'clock I
started on my way to Verkne Barantchinsk, where horses had
been ordered to be ready for me at daylight the following morn
ing. The ride up this valley was very agreeable, the ground
being covered with flowers ; and the little river Baransha, wind
ing its course among the trees, gave a pleasing variety to the
scene. I sketched two views during my ride, and arrived at the
Zavod at four o'clock. Here I was obliged to remain for the
night, it being too late to begin our mountain ride. This induced
me to visit the iron-works, and afterward to walk to Lime-tree
Hill, which the director informed me was a mass of greenstone.
My labor was not rewarded. I observed nothing either pic
turesque or interesting around the Zavod ; nevertheless, I spent
a very pleasant evening with the director, and then prepared for
my ride over the mountains.
At half past three o'clock, "four men, with five horses, came
into the yard : these were to be my companions to Vissimo Chai
tanskoi Zavod. It was a splendid morning, with every prospect
of a fine day. I had been prepared at Kooshwinskoi for a rough
ride, but this did not deter me. During the first two hours we
had a good track or road, along which timber, firewood, and char
coal were carted to the" Zavod. After this we found a mere track,
in many places overgrown with underwood and bushes. We were
now ascending to the crest of the chain through a dense forest of
pines, in some places so thick that it was impossible to pass be
tween them ; in others huge rocks were standing up far above the

PINE FOREST. 65
tops of the trees, while still higher up some bold crags overtopped
the forest like watch-towers. To the summit of these rocks I
determined to ascend ; I therefore dismounted, and, leaving two
men in charge of the horses, accompanied by the rest, soon
reached the top, the way to which was neither difficult nor danger
ous. From the summit the scene around us appeared one inter
minable forest, extending far beyond the reach of vision. To the
north were seen some precipitous peaks, standing like mighty for
tresses guarding this vast solitude. We did not remain long on
these crags, as I saw to the southward, and apparently near to us,
the rugged crest of a mountain much higher than the rocks on which
we stood. Having taken the bearings with my compass to enable
me to direct our course through the thick forest, we descended to
our horses, mounted, and rode away. I now took upon myself
the duties of guide in this dense and tangled wood, as no vista
whatever could be obtained through it. Trunks of trees, with
fallen rocks, were the only objects in view, while a thick canopy
of foliage above our heads almost shut out the light of heaven,
and rendered the place dark and dismal. Although the mountain
appeared so near, I was quite certain that we should have a diffi
cult ride. We had not gone above three hundred paces when we
got among large loose stones that were very dangerous to ride
over ; our progress, therefore, was slow. At last we were com
pelled to dismount. Even then it was a most perilous task taking
our horses across this belt of stone, about five hundred paces in
width, and extending far down the mountain. After passing
these loose rocks, we descended into a small and more open valley,
in which large pines and Siberian cedars were growing most
luxuriantly, with a thick mossy turf beneath, in many places
covered with flowers ; among them were large beds of geranium,
and fine clumps of peony in full bloom.
Having crossed this lovely little spot, quite park-like in its
appearance, we began to ascend a steep and rugged hill, and in
about half an hour were at the foot of the granite crags, to the
summits of which I soon climbed. - They were cut or split into
several pinnacles ; some had been struck with lightning, and their
fragments scattered around ; and others appeared ready to topple
over and bound into the valley below. Dwarf cedars and young
pines were growing out of the clefts. There were also large
patches of dark green and yellow moss, with tufts of white and
5

66 DINNER IN THE POREST.
purple flowers, contrasting beautifully with the dark red of the
granite. To the north the jagged top of the Katchkanar was seen ; also
Pavdinska Kamen. Still farther away, and almost lost in the
distance, were three other peaks, covered with snow; below these
desolate, rocky summits was a dark, solitary, and apparently track
less forest, undisturbed by any sound except the shrill voice of
the large, red-crested woodpecker. Having sat on these rocks
about half an hour, contemplating this grand and gloomy scene,
we retumed to our horses, and rode down the west side of the
mountain into a deep and thickly-wooded valley. At the bottom
we found a small stream, and, following its course downward, at
length came upon a fine open space, with plenty of grass for our
horses. Here we dismounted, and turned them loose to feed,
while we sat down on the bank under some large trees and par
took of the good things provided for us. Any lover of the gentle
craft would have found excellent sport on this little stream. The
grayling were very numerous, and constantly springing at the flies
playing over the pool at our feet. One of my men caught three
with a loop of horse-hair. Our horses had a rest of two hours,
and then we started again, still following the stream, until we
entered a dark and gloomy valley. Our ride was now over bog
and fen, in which our horses floundered amid fallen trees in all
stages of decay, often sinking to the saddle-flaps in mire. In
about two hours we got through this terrible morass, with our
steeds completely jaded. At length we were once more on hard
ground near a rapid stream, which ran tumbling and roaring over
large stones. One of' my men now discovered where we were
and said we could not ride to the Zavod, even with fresh horses,
before sunset. A short rest was absolutely necessary for our tired
animals before pushing on further.
The musquitoes were here in millions : this compelled us to
make a fire and a great smoke to keep them at a distance. The
poor horses stood with their heads in the smoke also as a protec
tion against these pests. To remain long on this spot would have
subjected us to a degree of torment neither man nor beast could
endure, so we were soon obliged to retreat. I wish I could say
that we left the enemy in possession of the field. Not so ; they
pursued us with bloodthirsty pertinacity until we reached some
open meadows, when they were driven back into their fenny

PLATINUM MINES. 67
region by a breeze — I hope to prey on each other. Our tired
horses pricked up their ears, we saw the smoke at no great dis
tance, and a little afler nine o'clock rode into the Zavod, to the
great joy of the entire cavalcade, after seventeen hours in the
forests. The director of these works received me most kindly,
freely giving me, as usual, every possible accommodation, and
trea,ting me with the greatest liberality.
The next morning I took leave of my hospitable host, and com
menced my journey toward the upper ridge of the Oural. From
this Zavod to Nijne Tagilsk a new road is being formed, almost
in a straight line across the mountains, and must now be com
pleted. It is a great work, and will make a splendid road from
Nijne Tagilsk quite across the Oural Mountains to Outkinska-
Demidoff Pristan, on the Tehoussowaia. The whole produce of
the mines at Tagilsk, and of the other zavods belonging to Demi
doff, are conveyed to the pristan along this road, but the greater
part is taken during winter on sledges.
After riding a few versts in this direction, we turned off to visit
the platinum mines near the crest of the Oural. The alluvium is
found in small ravines or depressions ranning up toward the sum
mit of the mountain in masses of detritus, composed principally
of fragments of serpentine, and small portions of greenstone,
drifted down from the higher peaks. The platinum has of late
years been found in small grains ; formerly it was obtained in
fragments of different sizes, weighing from one to twelve ounces,
and even more. There is one rare example, a piece weighing
near ten pounds. I was exceedingly fortunate in procuring a
curiously formed specimen weighing more than a quarter of a
pound. From these mines I determined to cross the high ridge, ride
through the forest, and strike the road on the eastern side of the
chain. My men thought we should encounter many difficulties ;
still, they did not hesitate to comply with my wish ; so we turned
our horses' heads up the ravine. A ride of one hour and a half
brought us to the summit, which was covered with thick forest;
but there were no rooks or crags from which we could obtain
even a peep into Asia. The descent was much more precipitous
than on the western side; in some places itwas very abrupt;
indeed, it gave us so muoh trouble that we were compelled to
turn to the south and ride toward the new road. In rather moro

68 NI.TNE TAGILSK.
than an hour we emerged from the forest, and were glad to tura
our horses toward Tagilsk. We had not gone more than a verst
when we found the road extended over a wooden bridge for seve
ral versts aoross a deep morass. Had we continued our course
in the forest, this would have given us much trouble, and stopped
us most probably at a time when our horses would have been
tired out, and then we should have had to remain in this morass
exposed to the attacks of our late tormentors. After crossing the
bridge and riding a short distance, we descended into a beautiful
little valley, down whioh the Tchernoy winds its course. From
this point our road was still through woods, and most uninterest
ing. At seven o'clock we arrived at Tagilsk, and I was delighted
to enter the hospitable house appointed for strangers, where I re
ceived from the director the greatest kindness and attention, with
every facility to enable me to sketch the scenery in and around
the Zavod. Horses and men were placed at my service, and a
gentleman who had spent several years in England was appointed
to accompany me wherever I wished to go.
Nijne Tagilsk, the principal Zavod of the Demidoff family, is a
large town, with a population of about 25,000 souls, and stands
in a picturesque situation in a valley of the River Tagil, com
prising many elegant buildings of brick and stone; among them
is a fine churoh, containing some beautiful paintings ; also a
splendid edifice of large dimensions, in which the administration
of the mines is carried on ; capacious and well-conducted hospi
tals for the workmen ; large and excellent schools for the educa
tion of youths and younger children ; vast warehouses for copper,
iron, and other materials, with corn, flour, groceries, clothing, and
everything required for the population ; good and spacious houses
for the directors and chief managers, and very comfortable dwell
ings for the workmen and their families.
The smelting furnaces, forges, rolling mills, machine shops,
and other works, with their machinery, are on a magnificent scale.
The various machines and tools are of the best description, some
being from the first manufactories in England. Others are made
in the works under the superintendence of a very talented young
engineer, a native of Tagilsk, who had spent several years in one
of the best establishments in Lancashire. The manner in which
these works are conducted reflects the highest credit on the diiector
and his assistants in every department.

COPPER MINES. 69
Anatole Demidoff spares no expense in educating those youug
men of Tagilsk, or of any other of his Zavods, who show auy
talent for geology, mineralogy, or mechanics. He has sent several
to England and France, allowing them ample means, and affording
them every opportunity of pursuing their studies ; to some he
has already given their freedom, and many of his people in Tagilsk
have become wealthy. He has also employed some of the most
eminent scientific men of Europe to survey and examine the mines
and minerals in these regions.*
Both iron and copper are worked in this Zavod on an extensive
scale. About two versts from the works, Vessokgora, or high
hill, rises up from three to four hundred feet above the valley;
near the top, and on the sides of this hill, magnetic iron ore has
been extracted from a very remote period, most probably ages
before the first Demidoff planted his foot on the Oural. The
greater quantity is met with in a small valley on the western side
of the hill, where it is being worked in an open quarry. Here
lies an inexhaustible supply of this valuable mineral. The
enormous mass of iron ore found on this spot is about eighty feet
thick, and extends about four hundred feet in length. There is
material for these iron-works for ages yet to come. Formerly a
great difference of opinion was entertained among scientific men
about the origin of this mound of mineral. My attendant from
the works, a good practical geologist, informed me that there was
no doubt these masses of ore have flowed into the valley from
fissures in the adjacent hill.
About one and a half verst distance from the iron quarry the
copper mines exist ; the latter ore is obtained by sinking shafts to
near three hundred feet deep. It was in the year 1812 that the
copper was first discovered at Tagilsk ; since that period the mines
have been found very productive, and worked to great advantage.
The most singular and beautiful product of these mines is the
malachite. The doors, vases, and other works displayed in the
Great Exhibition of 1851, made of this mineral, sufficiently attest
its varied color and beauty as a material for works of ornament.
On visiting this region I expressed a wish to see this mineral in
* Sir R. I. Murchison says, in his " Geology of the Oural," " At Nijne
Tagilsk, and the country around, to which Anatole Demidofi' is now applying
so mnch scientific research, we doubt not he will render it a school where
Bomo of the most curious metallurgical processes of nature can be best studied."

70 HUGE MASS OF MALACHITE.
its natural state, and the director immediately gave orders that I
should descend and see the men at work in the mines.
A few years before my arrival in the Oural Blountain an enor
mous mass of malachite had been discovered at Tagilsk and uen
were now engaged in extracting this mighty metallic stalagmite,
the deposit of ages. In the company of one of the managers
visited the mine, and found that a large quantity had alreadj
been taken away from this mass, and the miners were engaged in
breaking up the remainder. Could this have been removed in its
perfect state, it would have been one of the greatest natural
curiosities ever exhibited. I was told that the whole mass was
likely, when extracted, to produce about 20,000 poods, or 720,000
pounds of beautiful and solid malachite, worth at least £170,000.
Such is the mineral wealth of some of the Ouralian mines, in a
region where it is supposed Nature carried on her latest metal
lurgical operations.*
On this vast estate of the Demidoffs, containing 3,095,700
acres, nearly equalling Yorkshire, Nature has been most bountiful.
Iron and copper ore appear to be inexhaustible. Platinum and

* Sir B. I. Murchison beheld this wonder of nature before the wedge and
hammer had mutilated its form. He says : ** the copper ground we have been
describing having been excavated by shafts, an enormous mass of malachite
was recently detected at the depth of 280 feet. Thin strings of green copper
ore occurring at intervals were followed downward, when, increasing in width
and value, they were found to terminate, at the base of the present mines, in
an immense irregularly-shaped botryoidal mass of solid malachite 
The base of this valuable mass bas not yet been traced, but when we examined
it the surrounding matrix had been cleared away from its summit and sides ;
and if our notes taken on the spot are accurate, the summit alone has a length
of about eighteen feet, and a width of about nine feet, an enormous bulging
mass being exposed beneath, tbe extent or base of which was not fully
ascertained. The whole of the surface, however, which had been uncovered
was calculated to contain not less than 15,000 poods, or upward of half a million
pounds of pure and solid malachite.
" The geological interest attached to this mass lies in the indication it
affords that the substance called malachite has been formed by a cupriferous
solution, which has successively deposited its residue in the stalagmitic form.
"When we examined this mass of malachite, much of tho surrouniUng
matrix had been removed, aud it presented precisely the aspect of having been
deposited in a depression of the limestone aud sohaalstein. On the whole, we
are disposed to view it as having resulted from copper solutions emanating
from all the porous, loose, surrounding mass, and which, trickling through it
to the lowest cavity upon the subjacent solid rock, have in a series of agea
produced this wonderful subterranean incrustation."

TOHERNOISTOTCHINSK. 71
gold are in the upper valleys, and malachite is found there also
in enormous quantities, with porphyry and jasper of great beauty,
and various colored marbles. Their forests extend over more than
ten thousand square versts, and are thickly covered with timber.
These woods are under the supervision of intelligent officers,
whose duty it is to have them cut down in proper succession. It
requires a space of eighty years to reproduce timber suitable for
the use of the Zavods.
Formerly was carried on in Tagilsk a large manufactory of
sheet-iron articles, such as oval tables, boxes, large and small, tea-
trays, and various other wares. This was at one time a very
important branch in theworks, as these articles were almost indis
pensable in every Siberian dwelling. The Demidoffs were ever
in advance of the age in which they lived. They saw the great
advantage that would accrue by educating their workmen, and
giving them a knowledge of the fine arts. There was a School
of Design in Nijne Tagilsk seventy years ago. Several men from
Nijne Tagilsk were sent into Italy, and placed with eminent
artists, under whom they studied for several years ; some possessed
considerable talent, and retumed home fully qualified to impart
their knowledge to others. I have seen five or six oval tables,
four feet six inches long, painted by them, that would do credit
to any establishment in Europe at the present day.
Most probably they got the art of japanning from the Chinese :
the process is accomplished with a composition that resists the
action of hot water, and many of their early works are still per
fect. My next points were Tchemoistotchinsk iron-works, belonging
to Demidorff, twenty-five versts distant from Nijne Tagilsk, and
" Bielaya Gora," or White Mountain. The director had sent and
desired the manager to make the necessary preparations to enable
us to ascend Bielaya Gora, as well as to afford me every facility
for sketching either on the lake or elsewhere. It was also arranged
that the manager who had attended me in Nijne Tagilsk should
be^ my companion on this journey. He had decided that this
should be a party of pleasure, and that his wife should join us
and visit her friends in the Zavod. We left in a carriage at one
o'clock, taking a southwesterly direction for about three versts,
when we began to ascend a very steep hill. Then our road was
through thick forests, with a few spots of open ground, which

72 A PRETTY LAKE.
were genuine flower-gardens. We visited one of the platinum
mines a few versts out of our road. It is in a small ravine, but is
no longer worked. I found some small grains of the mineral, from
which the detritus had been washed away by the rains. After a
very pleasant ride through these forests, we arrived at Tchemoi
stotchinsk at five o'clock. There is a fine Jake near the Zavod,
extending up to the foot of Bielaya Gora, about twelve versts in
length, and varying from four to six versts in width. The lake
is bounded on one side by some very rugged rocks of greenstone,
and contains seven small islands. On one of these there was
formerly a building named "The Castle," erected by one of the
Demidoffs, where it is said he coined the silver he obtained from
the Altai.
The view of the lake, looking up toward Bielaya Gora, with
its islands and hilly shores, is very pretty ; formerly it was thiokly
wooded on the north side, but the timber was cut down a few
years ago for the use of the Zavod. In fifty or sixty years this
vrill be again a dense forest, and that, too, without planting. I
was told there are several parts of this lake that are never frozen
in the most severe winters, not even with 25° or 30° R. of frost.
This, it is supposed, is caused by springs at the bottom of it; and
in consequence of such large pieces of open water remaining
accessible, many kinds of water-fowl are induced to winter here,
a rare phenomenon in these cold regions.
During the evening I went with the manager over the works,
and found that they were in full activity, making bar iron, con
sidered the best in the Oural. I was told that it is well known even
in England by the name of " old sable iron ;" and the people
here were delighted to show me the material from which our best
English steel is manufactured.
The manager and his three daughters proposed to accompany
their friends from Nijne Tagilsk, and to go with us to Bielaya
Gora. Early in the morning there had been a thick fog hanging
over the lake and hills ; this had gradually cleared off, and we
had at starting a brilliant sunshine, and every prospect of fine
weather. The men and cooks had been sent on at five o'clock
with the necessary instmctions. Three telagas, each drawn by
three horses, were provided to take us as far as possible up the
mountain, from whence we must walk to the summit. We mus-
tered for this trip four ladies and four gentlemen, divided into

DENSE FOREST. 73
three parties — two ladies and a gentleman in each of the first
telagas, and two gentlemen in the last, thus equalizing the weight.
Our track was along the western shore of the lake, over low
hills and undulating ground for several versts ; many of the views
were extremely beautiful, the open ground beiug covered with
flowers, and the trees and bushes clothed with the richest foliage,
while small islands studded the lake, and were reflected in water
scarcely moved by a ripple. It was, indeed, a calm and most
lovely scene.
We turned to the west, crossing some low hills so thickly
wooded that we could not even get a peep at the country around.
Farther on we were driving through rich park-like scenery, with
magnificent timber, in some parts quite clear of underwood, with
short mossy grass beneath the trees, and fine clumps of peony in
full bloom. Here and there large Siberian cedars were growing,
with their rich green tufted branches; in other places stood
gigantic pines, towering up from a hundred to a hundred and fifty
feet ; and these were often so well grouped that the effect appeared
to have been produced by the genius of some Paxton of by-gone
ages. After a ride of about four hours we were at the foot of the
mountain, and began to ascend ; on this side it is a fine grassy
slope, very easy to drive up. We still continued our course to
the westward, gradually rising until we had attained a considera
ble elevation, when we tumed to the south, up a rather steep
ascent to a belt of pines and larches. Beyond this point the
telagas could not proceed. We now began to ascend on foot, and,
after passing the belt of timber, were among great masses of
rock, which stand up to the height of a hundred and fifty feet.
In some places huge blocks, which had fallen from above, lay
strewn at the base of these rocks, occasionally pines of large
dimensions growing up among them. After walking about an
hour, we arrived, at five o'clock, very hungry, at a beautifully
sheltered spot, which our men had selected for our night's encamp
ment. A huge fire was burning ; and a balagan, as it is called,
was prepared for the ladies, made with small poles, and oovered
with birch bark and branches. This primitive kind of shelter is
open ou three sides, and, simple as it is in its structure, will keep
off the rain very well. Carpets and a table-cloth were spread on
the grass, and we were soon partaking of the good things the
manager and the cooks had provided ; both dinner and wines were

74 A TEA-PARTY.
excellent, and the London porter as fresh and foaming as the most
tired traveller would wish to have it.
Having rested about an hoiir, an i finding my companions inclined
to sleep (a universal custom after dinner in these regions, indeed
throughout Russia), I desired one of the men to take my sketch
ing materials and go with me. Shouldering my rifle, I started off
about a verst from our night's encampment, where there was a
very picturesque mass of rocks and trees, forming a beautiful
foreground to the valley beneath, with purple and blue mountains
in the distance.
Here I sat down to my work, sketching and contemplating ; at
length I came to a full conviction that the entire upper peaks of
the Oural must have been much higher at some very remote
period. They are now shattered, broken, and tumbled about in
every direction. Wii^d and storms cannot have uprooted such
stupendous masses as I beheld lying around me, nor can I sup
pose that they have been thrown down by earthquakes. Although
earthquakes as well as faith can remove mountains, still I think
these have stood on too broad and firm a base to be tossed out of
their places by such convulsions, terrible as they are. Another
power must have caused this tremendous devastation. Ages ago
a mighty sea rolled over the crests of these mountains, probably
during the great convulsion which heaved them up, and water
apparently has been the agent, with its irresistible force, which
has first rent their top asunder, and then hurled the huge masses
from their beds.
I had not quite finished my sketch when all my friends came
up and told me we should drink tea on the highest summit, at a
short distance to the east of us, where the men were already
waiting with the necessary apparatus. We walked toward this
pile of rocks, and ascertained that they rose into a peak about
two hundred feet high, small, and rather abmptly terminating
near the top, on whioh a signal-post has been erected. We
ascended without difficulty, and found room for the ladies around
the framework of the post, the rest of the party hanging on as
best they could. Water was brought to the summit, and the
somervar, or urn, was soon boiling, when we drank our tea, and
watched the sun sink below the mountains. This was the signal
for our departure, and we descended without accident.
We had a walk in the dusk of the evening, and at half past

MOUNTAIN SUNRISE. 75
eleven o'clock were sitting at supper in our camp. The men had
built a large fire about fifty paces distant, and were singing in
choras some beautiful Russian melodies. After a short time the
ladies were stowed away under the balagan, and each of us adopted
bis own plan for sleeping. Some made beds of branches, but
mine was composed of two logs of timber placed near the fire, -
with my cloak for a covering. In a few minutes after I had lain
down I was fast asleep.
About two o'clock in the morning I awoke, shivering with cold ;
the fire had nearly burned out, and, on looking round, I began to
wonder what had happened, everything appeared so changed.
Having got up, I felt the grass crisp under my feet, and on taking
up a piece of wood found it frozen, so much so that I could scrape
the ice from it. I threw some wood on the fire, hoping to get
warm, but failed : this induced me to look for the sunrise. After
taking my rifle from a branch on which it hung, I strolled away,
leaving every one fast asleep. Having proceeded about two versts
into some long grass, I got sight of a fine buck, who bounded
past me at full speed at about a hundred and fifty yards distance.
I fired, and, unluckily, missed him. Notwithstanding my disap
pointment, I kept on my course. At fifty minutes past two
o'clock I was sitting on a high ledge of rock watching for the
sun. Presently a visible token of his approach crept along the
distant horizon. My friends were at least three versts away, and
no signs of life were visible except a solitary bird sitting on a
birch-branch chanting his matin song.
The sun was rising fast, his yellow rays were thrown far up
into mid-heaven, and in a short time the rocky peaks above me
were tipped with golden light. Soon he was shining upon me in
his full glory, while all beneath was undefined and misty. Pre
sently the tops of the lower hills caught the light, and every few
minutes new objects seemed starting into life from out the gloomy
shroud which overhung the valleys. I sat watching the changes
for an hour. It was, indeed, a glorious sight. Hill after hill
was breaking into view; eaoh ridge, as it receded, was more
aerial, until, at length, they appeared like golden mists; while
the nearer rocks stood out grim, dark, and rugged, as if the spi
rits of darkness were trjdng to penetrate the mysteries of heaven.
The towns and zavods in the far-off distance were now touched
with tbe sun's rays, and sparkled in yellowish white against the

76 A PRECIPICE.
dark purple-gray forests by whioh they were surrounded, shining
out like specks of light on the vast extent of wood and mountain.
Although there are no great mountain masses in this region rising
far into snowy space, to strike the beholder with wonder, this
country has a grandeur peculiarly its own, which it is difficult to
describe. The interminable forests, with their rounded hilly
sweeps vanishing far into misty distance, until they appear to
dissolve into thin air, and the oppressive solitude reigning over
these vast scenes, create feelings of astonishment and melancholy.
I retraced my steps, arrived at the balagan at half past five
o'clock, and found the cooks preparing the morning meal. After
breakfast it was agreed that two men should accompany me to
the northeast side of the mountain, where we could descend to
ward the lake, cross over a most rugged part, and meet our friends
in the forest at the bottom. A brisk walk of an hour brought us
to the brink of a precipice, and stopped our progress toward the
lake, which we now looked down upon. Though apparently quite
near, it was, in reality, several versts distant. It was shining
like polished silver, its seven small islands appearing almost black
on its bright surface. From the foot of the precipice on which
we stood, down to the lake, there was a thick forest extending
all along its shores. We were compelled to descend a little, and
then cross toward the west; this brought us to a bed of loose
rocks, at least half a verst in width, extending up to the summit
and far down the mountain. They were difficult to cross, but
not dangerous. In some places they were piled up very steep,
without even a blade of grass on them; in other parts, lower
down, trees and shrabs were growing between the stones ; again,
toward the middle of the bed, there were deep holes formed by
blocks being heaped up in the utmost confusion. In many places
the rocks are of enormous dimensions. I measured several, and
found one 43 feet long by 12 feet wide, with an average thickness
of 8 feet : this could not weigh less than 500 tons. Heavy as
this is, it seems to have been tumbled about without difficulty :
these ponderous blocks, being tossed up into a confused and
shadowy mass, suggest thoughts of " Chaos and old Night."
There is every appearance of a mighty torrent having swept
over this place, tearing up solid rocks — indeed, everything in its
course. Since I examined this spot I have spent six years among
the mountains of Asia, asceoiing many of great elevation, and

NEVIANSK. — NIKlTE DEMIDOFF. 77
in no instance have T ever found these rooky and torrent-like
beds near the summits. I have walked up the track of the ava
lanche where snow, ice, and rooks have torn up the mountain and
carried devastation into the valleys, but these fearful roads of
Nature's making bear no resemblance to the masses of rock on
Bielaya Gora.
A walk of six hours brought us to our friends and to dinner,
most acceptable after a fatiguing ramble. We rested some time,
then got into our telagas, and returned to Tchemoistotchinsk,
where we arrived at eight o'clock, much delighted with our jour
ney.

CHAPTER VL
PRECIOUS STONES OF SIBERIA.

On leaving this Zavod the road passes round " Lessetsia Gora,"
or Fox Hill, and enters a pretty valley with isolated masses of
rook in many parts, and fine clumps of trees. After passing Chai-
tansk, it is one continuous forest to Neviansk, where I arrived at
two o'clock in the morning, and was taken to the castle.
This is one of the oldest Zavods in the Oural ; it was built on
the small river Neva under the direction of Nikite Demidoff.
Sent from Tula by Peter the Great, about the year 1701 or 1702,
to examine the mines in these regions, near which he soon after
established himself, Demidoff may truly be considered the founder
of the iron and other works in the Oural. He did more toward
developing the mineral wealth of these mountains than any other
man. His sound practical knowledge and untiring industry in
examining this country, enabled him to select those parts best
suited for mining, smelting, and other operations, and he has left
the stamp of his foresight and genius on several Zavods.
The castle, as it is called, was partly built by the first Demi
doff, and was long the family residence ; it was extended by his
successor into a magnificent mansion. The rooms have all groined
ceilings in brick-work ; some of them with ribs, and bosses at the
intersections, in very good taste, and admirably executed. In a
room whioh I may now call my bed-room, there is a fine arched
recess, in which stood an iron bedstead elegantly fitted up. The

78 HOSPITALITY. — LEANING TOWER. — IRON-WARE.
furniture had once been splendid, but is now somewhat faded.
¦In front of the recess a beautiful painted iron table was standing,
and iron chairs were round the room. There is a large saloon
with fresco paintings on the walls, as well as several other apart
ments, which have been richly furnished. The whole are now
kept for the accommodation of travellers, and everything is pro
vided for the table free of expense. Much used to be thought
of the " horn of ale" given at some of the noble mansions in
England, but in this Zavod the traveller takes up his abode, and
at whatever hour he may arrive, night or day, he is certain to find
a welcome. His table is covered with excellent fare and delicious
wines — Port, Sherry, Rhine wine, and Champagne. Such is the
generous hospitality of the Oural, evidence of which may be
found in every private Zavod.
It is said that the castle was once much more extensive, but
that a part of it was destroyed by one of the Demidoffs, many
years ago, out of caprice. The government had some suspicion
that Demidoff was working other metals than iron in this Zavod,
and sent a certain Count  to examine into the matter. On
his return the two met at the palace in St. Petersburg, when the
count congratulated Di midoff on the taste and splendor of his
noble mansion in the Oural. Demidoff asked if his excellency
was as well satisfied with the hospitality as with the appearance
of the mansion; the reply was, "Enchanted with both:" this
sealed its doom. Demidoff wrote immediately to his agent at
the Zavod to pull down the rooms which had been occupied by
the count. They were demolished immediately, and ao member
of the family has ever resided at the Zavod since.
About two hundred paces from the castle stands a very fine
briek tower, much out of the perpendicalar; there is a subterra
neous passage to it, now closed up. In this building the silver
brought from the Altai was refined, and afterward coined on the
island in the lake at Tchemoistotchinsk. It is also said that the
first Demidoffs concealed here the fugitives who escaped from
Tobolsk and other regions of Siberia, employing them in the
mines and iron-works ; if true, it was a grave offence, considering
the formidable injunctions of the emperor.
Very good bar iron is made from a mixture of iron ore ob
tained here, with a portion of magnetic iron ore from Nijne
Tagilsk. The manufacture of painted iron-ware, which was onee

RIFLES. 79
carried on extensively in Nijne Tagilsk, has long been removed
to this Zavod, and is now a very important branoh of its indus
trial operations. Large quantities of various articles are pro
duced, whioh find their way through the fair at Irbit to every
part of Siberia ; also a peculiar kind of iron-bound wooden boxes,
mostly painted red or blue, the iron-work black and ornamented.
These are necessary appendages in every cottage ; are made by
free people, and thousands are sent to the fair at Irbit every year
in February. An immense number of rifles are also turned out
by them, the iron manufactured here being considered good for
the purpose ; the barrels are bored out of the solid metal, and
rifled with five grooves, having one and a quarter tum in the
length of the barrel : they are usually made very heavy. The
stocks are of birch-wood; the looks obtained from Nijne-Novgo
rod, and are exceedingly rough; nevertheless, this is a most
deadly weapon. No rifle made by Purday will carry its ball with
more certainty than these : each is sold for 31s. Sd.
Two were manufactured especially for me, by order of the
director, with more care than is usually bestowed on them, and
the barrels were made lighter, and better stocked. One was a
small bore or pea-rifle, carrying balls sixty-four to the pound : this
was for the feathered race and small animals; the other was a
large bore, carrying balls thirty-two to the pound, for deer, stags,
elks, wolves, bears, or even the tiger : with both of these I could
shoot with perfect accuracy, and I seldom failed procuring game
for a dinner when once within range of bird or beast. These two
rifles cost me, complete, witb cases and all the necessary apparatus,
£4 15s.
The Zavod and mines of Neviansk have been the property of
Yakovlif for about a century : the population amounts to near
18,000, a great number of whom are free. A dispute arose
between Yakovliff and the Demidoffs about the boundary of this
property, the former claiming the iron mines in Nijne Tagilsk.
It ended in a lawsuit, and as both parties were rich, it has, of
course, been carried on for a great number of years. On my
visit to Nijne Tagilsk, in 1847, a new boundary was being formed
between the two estates. Formerly stone pillars had been set up
to mark the division of the property, but these were found inse
cure, as the strict injunction laid down in Scripture touching
" thy neighbor's landmark" was unknown in these regions. A

80 EKATERINEBURG.
most excellent plan has now been adopted — a deep trench has
been dug along the boundary, and filled up with small charcoal ;
this is almost indestructible, and to move it without immediate
detection irapossible.
On leaving Neviansk my route was southward, nearly parallel
to the high ridge of the Oural, about thirty or forty versts dis
tant, and through what was once a densely-wooded country, but
the forests have long been cut down for the use of the adjacent
Zavods. The woods are in various stages of growth, according
to the years in whioh each division fell under the woodman's axe;
they are now springing up again, from a sapling of one year to
trees of sixty years' standing, which will soon be swept away to
smelt the ores under them. The first village on the road is Shaidu-
rikha. Here there is a little open country, also occasional patches
as far as Mostovaia ; from hence to Ekaterineburg it is one con
tinued forest, affording no points of interest to the artist. To the
geologist, mineralogist, and miner, the case is different ; gold allu
vium has been found on the little streams in most, if not in all
the valleys, and extensively worked, in many instances most pro
fitably. To the east of the road around Mursinsk lies the region
in which the following precious stones of the Oural are found —
eraerald, amethyst, beryl, christoberyl, topaz, rose tourmaline, and
garnets, all highly interesting to the crystallographer in their
natural state, and muoh more so to the ladies when cut into
gems. Ekaterineburg is the capital of the Oural ; and on entering the
town from the north a church and some large mansions are seen
on a high hill to the left overlooking the lake, a beautiful sheet
of water, whieh extends several versts in a westerly direction,
until hid behind the woods of Issetzskoi. One of these mansions,
built by a very rich man who aocumulated his immense wealth
from gold mines, is of enormous dimensions, and from its elevated
situation has a most imposing effect, commanding views of the
Oural far to the north and west, until lost in distant haze. The
Zavod of Verkne Issetzskoi, with its churches and public build
ings, stands out beautifully in the centre of the view, while in
the foreground and beneath is the lake, with several public and
private edifices on its shores. The gardens belonging to this
mansion, with the green-houses and hot-houses, are extensive and
well laid out : they are open to the public in summer, and form

VIEW FROM THE LAKE. 81
a pleasant promenade. Formerly there was a splendid and
choice collection of plants in the green-houses, but for many
years past they have been neglected. The owner, notwithstand
ing his enormous wealth and elegant mansion, was banished and
punished for flogging some of his people to death ; another man
implicated in this crime, shared the same fate. Both had risen
from peasants.
There are many honorable exceptions to these men in Ekate-
ntitburg — merchants and owners of mines who would do credit
to any country. They have accumulated very large fortunes,
and have built themselves mansions equal to any found in the
best European towns ; the rooms are spacious, lofty, and beauti
fully finished ; their decorations executed with excellent taste ;
they are also splendidly furnished — indeed, supplied with almost
every luxury as well as comfort. With many of these fortunate
persons, thfeir mode of living equals the splendor of their habita
tions. Attached to most of their dwellings are large conserva
tories, in some of which are very choice collections of tropical
plants and flowers, such as few would expect to find in so severe
a climate. There is a charming view of the town from the lake ; the
towers, spires, and domes of its eight churches, a monastery, and
a convent, rising over the nu-merous public and private buildings,
produce a most pleasing effect. The ground on which Ekaterine
burg is built is thrown up into hills, on the crests of which are
several good edifices. These are again overtopped by a rocky
mount, clothed with dark green foliage, and on its summit stands
the observatory, used mostly for magnetic observations. The
churches, convents, public buildings, and large houses, are all
built of brick, covered with cement, and, when seen among the
pine-clad hills of the Oural, have a very imposing appearance.
Nearly in the centre of the town a high embankment is car
ried across the valley of the Issetz, and at this point stand the
mechanical works belonging to government. They are built upon
an enormous scale, and fitted up with machinery and tools from
the best makers in England. Here are found Nasmyth's steam-
hammer, large lathes, planing machines, with punching, drilling,
grooving, and slotting machines for every purpose. The entire
arrangement of this establishment has been carried out, regard
less of expense, under the superintendence of a good practical
6

0-: JASPER TABLES.
English mechanic, who has served the government for about fif
teen years. He executed the whole of the excellent machinery
of the Mint, in which copper money to a large amount is coined
annually and sent into Russia. The furnace for smelting gold is
in a building connected with the Mint, to which all the precious
metals found in the OuraJ are brought. Here they are smelted
and cast into bars, and sent to St. Petersburg.
Near these works stands the Granilnoi Fabric, the building in
which the jaspers, porphyries, aventurine, and other stones found
in the Oural are made into columns, pedestals, vases, and tables,
unrivalled in workmanship either in ancient or modern times ;
the lathes, saws, and polishing machines used are turned by
water-power. The whole establishment belongs to the crown,
and is worked by peasants.
The jaspers are found in a great variety of colors — the most
beautiful a deep green, dark purple, dark violet, gray, and cream-
color; also a ribbon jasper with stripes of reddish-brown and
green. The porphyries are equally fine and varied, some of most
brilliant colors. Orlite is also a splendid stone of a deep pink
color, with veins of yellow and black ; when made into vases it is
semi-transparent. Malachite is also used in making tables and
various other articles. The vases are usually of a most classic
design : this, with the rich materials in which they are executed,
gives them a most magnificent effect ; but to be able fully to ap
preciate such works, they must be seen in the splendid collections
at the imperial palaces in St. Petersburg. I have frequently
found and painted huge masses of these splendid rocks, of which
I have now seventy-two varieties.
Most magnificent jasper tables are made in this Zavod, inlaid
with different colored stones in imitation of birds, flowers, and
foliage. In 1853 I saw one of them in Ekaterineburg on which
four or flve men had been employed for six years — not an uncom
mon circumstance ; indeed, some examples have occupied a longer
period. The cost of labor alone in England (provided the mate
rial were found there) would effectually prevent such work ever
being executed in our country. Here wages are almost nothing.
I have seen a man engaged carving foliage on some of the jasper
vases, in a style not excelled anywhere in Europe, whose wages
were three shillings and eightpence per month, with two poods,
or thirty-six pounds, of rye flour per month to make into bread ;

RATE OF WAGES. 83
meat he is never supposed to eat. I have seen another man cut
ting a head of Ajax, after the antique, in jasper of two colors —
the ground a dark green, and the head a yellowish cream color —
in very high relief, and intended for a brooch. It was a splendid
production of art, and would have raised the man to a high posi
tion in any country in Europe except Russia. He also, poor
man ! received his three shillings and eightpence per month, and
his bread. There are many men employed in these productions
possessing great genius ; were they free to use their talents for
their own benefit, this country might send into civilized Europe
numerous works of vast merit. A married man with a family
receives two poods of black flour for his wife and one pood for
each child, on which they live and look stout.
1 have watched men cutting the emerald, topaz, amethyst,
aquamarina, and other stones into different shapes, which they
do with perfect accuracy and in good taste. Some of these
brilliant gems have no doubt, ere this, adomed imperial majesty.
These men also receive a like remuneration.
The following is the rate of wages paid to the superintendents
and workmen employed in the cutting and polishing works.
Two superintendents or master workmen, each of whom receives
240 rubles banco per annum, about £11 sterling, and their
"black flour" (rye). There are also 160 workmen employed,
divided into four classes :
A first class workman receives 4 rubles banco per montli ^ 3s. %d.
A second class ditto 3 ditto ditto = 2s. 9d.
A third class ditto 2 ditto ditto = is. Wd.
A fourth class ditto, or boys, 1 ditto ditto = llcf.,
and their black bread.
Ekaterineburg being the capital of the Oural and the centre of
the mining districts, here is established the Gornoi-pravlania, or
General Board for the Direction of the Mines, whioh consists of
a great number of officers who live in Ekaterineburg with their
families. At present the chief of the Oural is a general of artil
lery, most probably appointed to this position in consequence of
nearly all the iron-works belonging to the crown having been
employed for many years past in casting and boring large guns,
casting shot and shells, and in preparing other munitions of war.
There is another general of artillery stationed in Ekaterineburg,
who is independent of the chief, and holds his appointment from

84 LUXURIOUS LIVING.
the Minister of War. His duty is the general supervision and a
close inspection of all the guns and arms of whatever kind made
iu the Zavods of the Oural. This gentleman has artillery officers
resident in many of the Zavods to watoh every process in the
manufacture of these destructive implements.
There is also a Berg inspector, or chief Director of Mines, a
most important office, filled during my visit by one of the most
intelligent mining engineers in the empire ; not only eminent for
his talents, but also for his kind disposition and gentlemanly con
duct. To him and his amiable wife I am deeply indebted for
many acts of kindness, as well as for some of the most agreeable
days I spent in the Altai. May it please Heaven to preserve
them, aud give lasting prosperity to their family ! Many other
mining engineers are employed in the Zavod with whom I am
personally acquainted, and from whom I have received much
attention. To the director of the Granilnoi Fabric, or polishing works, I
am greatly indebted for permitting me to see the processes used
in cutting and polishing the different jaspers and porphyries ;
also for allowing me to examine those elegant productions of the
lathe and chisel which adorn the imperial palaces, and confer so
much credit on his taste and skill. To the Natchalnic of 1852
I offer my thanks for his valuable assistance ; the kind attentions
of his wife will be long remembered. The Inspector of Hospitals
I would not omit; although mentioned the last, he is not the
least; to him and his amiable family I am indebted for many
pleasing recollections of Ekaterineburg. It would ill become me
were I to forget other inhabitants of the town. The Golova, or
Mayor of 1853, and several of the merchants, I shall ever
remember with pleasure.
A traveller from the most civilized parts of Europe, who should
come here to gratify his curiosity, would not find a very remark
able difference between the style of living in this region among
the wealthy and that of the same class in his own country. He
would find the ladies handsomely clad in dresses made from the
best products of the looms of France and England, and should be
welcomed at the fireside, and on all occasions, with a generous
hospitality seldom met with elsewhere. If asked to dinner, he
would find placed on the board a repast that would not disgrace
the best hotels of the same countries. Fish and game of every

C.VKU-PLAYING. 85
kind are most abund.-int here, and luxuries from far distant regions
are not wanting. Wines of the finest quality, and in great variety,
are ever found at their tables, the only drawback to comfort being
the quantity of Champagne the traveller is obliged to drink.
Their balls are elegant, and conducted with great propriety,
and they dance well. The elder members of society spend their
time at cards, risking much money in this way. It is deeply to
be regretted that the young men are also much addicted to
gambling, a pursuit which often ends in ruin here as elsewhere.
During my stay in the Oural a young officer shot himself on
account of his losses at cards.
Even the fair sex in Ekaterineburg pass much of their time in
card-playing. I am acquainted with one family where there are
no less than eleven children ; there is not a day in the year during
which their mother spends less than five or six hours at cards,
unless prevented by sickness ; and when once she sits down to
the card-table, husband, children and all are forgotten. I know
another lady here, the principal business- of whose life is card-
playing. She has a moderate income, and passes her days and
most of her nights at cards ; she has her daily rounds, and goes
with as muoh exactness to her haunts as the most punctual
merchant to his office. Ten o'clock in the morning is her hour
of business ; the tables are opened and the cards placed. If no
one call before this hour, she goes forth to her usual occupation,
and seeks some one among her friends who will sit down and play,
if only for an hour. The game over at one place, she goes to
another, till she finds some one who will indulge her in a second
rubber, and so the time passes until dinner. After dining she
sleeps a couple of hours, and wakes quite fresh for her favorite
pursuit. In the evening she has no difficulty, for many are willing
to play : thus the time is spent until a late hour.
At one of the large mining towns in the Altai there lives a man
who has become rich from gold mines, and is a celebrated card-
player. It is no unusual cireumstance for him to visit St. Peters
burg; and as Ekaterineburg is about midway between the capital
and his place of residence, he is sometimes obliged to stop on the
way to repair carriages, after a run of more thau two thousand
versts — in fact, it is often absolutely necessary. This man's fame
having spread far and wide, his detention in the town for the first
time was an event which afforded the lady I have just alluded to

86 CAUSE OF GAMBLING.
the utmost delight : she could not permit such an opportunity to
pass without trying a rubber with so renowned a champion. At
her particular request, a friend arranged that they should meet
at dinner. She has been heard to say, no hours ever dragged on
BO slowly as on that forenoon ; still, the sun ran his course, and,
directly dinner was over, down they sat to cards. The evening
went on with varied success, the lady was enraptured, and rose
from the table the winner of a large sum. She invited her opponent
to play the next day; after some demur he consented, and the
following day the contest was renewed, and continued until she
had lost all. Nothing daunted, she urged him again to defer his
joumey for four-and-twenty hours, as her half year's income
would arrive by the post the following morning. But then came
a difficulty about getting the money at once, as there was some
formality which would delay it a day or two. After muoh trouble,
she persuaded the person to whom it was consigned to waive the
usual form, and let her have the money immediately. She got it,
and so strong was her ruling passion, that every moment seemed
lost until seated at the card-table. In a few hours she left it
without a kopek — her half year's income entirely gone I
Speaking with some of the most intelligent men on this subject,
their reply was, " In England you have the daily papers, the
monthly periodicals, a literature unequalled, and the liberty of
discussing every subject with freedom ; if we had such things to
occupy our minds, we should not care for cards."
The government employs a great number of its serfs in this
Zavod in the machine shops and on other works. None of them
can be said to be " poor," if by this word is meant want of bread ;
black bread they have, and salt ; these, with a draught of quass
(a drink made from rye), is the food of hundreds who work hard
for twelve hours in the day, and receive for their lahor fourpence.
The Russian peasants have most undoubtedly great imitative
genius, and nothing daunts them. Men are brought from a
village, never having seen any mechanical operations before, and
are taken into the Zavod. One is told he must bc a blacksmith :
he goes to his anvil without the least hesitation, and begins ' his
work ; another is ordered to be a fitter in the machine-shop : he
seats himself at his bench, looks at the work his neighbor is
doing, takes up his file, commences his new, and, to him, wonder
ful occupation : so they go on through many branches.

MAGNIFICENT EMERALDS. 87
There is one great drawback to the efficiency of the machine
works in Ekaterineburg — at present there is no practical head to
direct. It is not, as the authorities suppose, sufficient that a man
has been educated in the School of Mines in St. Petersburg, and
that, after serving a few years in the Altai or the Oural mines,
he is sent to England, and visits the different mechanical engineer
ing manufactories, walking through them occasionally, and taking
notes during a period of twelve or eighteen months. This is not
the training necessary to fit a man to direct efficiently and prac
tically a great establishment. He must acquire the requisite
knowledge by the toil of his own hands. Great mechanics are
not made in any other way, nor is it in the power of epaulettes,
of whatever size or material, to accomplish this object. In all our
great machine works there are good practical mechanics able to
direct, who have worked with their own hands. The great men
of England have all done so ; there are Fairbaim, Roberts, Nas
myth, Whitworth, and a host of others, as distinguished examples.
How much better it would be to select a hundred youths, and
send them as apprentices for seven years into different establish
ments, either in England or elsewhere ! they would learn some
thing, and retum competent to take charge of the different
departments : his imperial majesty and the country would then
profit by their acquirements. I have been induced to make these
remarks, as I have not been an idle spectator on my rambles
through the Zavods. On the other hand, I have seen and deeply
regret being compelled to admit that, in some of the works near
the Oural, certain departments have been conducted by my own
countrymen who were evidently quite incompetent, as the Rus
sian government have learned to their cost.
The lapidaries of Ekaterineburg deserve most honorable men
tion : they have brought their art to great perfection in cutting
the various stones found in Siberia, and some of them may vie
with the best in Europe.
About twenty-five or thirty years ago, several fine crystals of
emerald were discovered by some children while playing near the
village of Takovaya, and were tossed about in the cottage for a
considerable time before their character was recognised. At
length they were sent to Ekaterineburg, and were most splendidly
cut in the Granilnoi Fabric. They proved to be gems of rare
beauty and great value. As all precious stones, wherever found

88 AMETHYSTS AND OTHER STONES.
in Siberia, are the property of the emperor, these ought to have
been sent to the imperial palace in St. Petersburg; but they
never reached the imperial jewel-case. They were sent into
Germany, where they were bought by a prince of one of the first
reigning families. Some years afterward, his consort, on some
great occasion, visited the Emperor of Russia, and, while staying
in St. Petersburg, wore these magnificent and rare gems. They
were of such surpassing beauty as to attract the notice of the em
press, who admired them very much, and inquired whence they
were obtained. To the great astonishment of her imperial
majesty, she was told they came from Siberia. This caused a
great sensation. Without giving time for any communication to
be made to Ekaterineburg, the emperor sent an officer to search
the works, and the houses of all persons connected with the
Granilnoi Fabric. He found in the house of the director several
gems of great value, which the latter declared were there for safe
custody. This was thought somewhat strange, as other gems and
valuable works were lying at the museum in the Fabric. The
director was, without any investigation, sent to prison, and, after
many years' confinement, died there ; nor is it known to this day
by whom these emeralds were stolen. In Siberia it is still believed
that the man was innocent, but that, for the safety of persons of
more consideration, it was absolutely necessary he should be
imprisoned ; in short, it has been hinted that the offence was
committed by parties muoh nearer his imperial majesty. Since
this period few emeralds of value have been discovered.
Amethysts are still found at Tushakalva, a village near Mur
sinsk : these stones are far superior to the Brazilian amethyst,
have a much greater brilliancy, and are more valuable. Beryl is
found in several parts of the Oural — some crystals exoeedingly
fine, of a blue, yellow, and rose color ; those of the latter kind
a e rare, and, when perfectly transparent, of considerable value.
1 have seen some splendid specimens in Ekaterineburg most
beautifully cut. Chrysoberyl is met with in the same locality as
the emerald ; occasionally very fine crystals are obtained, and cut
into beautiful gems. Topaz is found at Alabaska and near Maias ;
some of these magnificent crystals have been discovered six inches
long, perfeotly transparent, and sold at a very great price. I
have seen fine specimens cut as gems, and exceedingly brilliant.
Pink topaz is rare : up to this time only five small crystals have

89
been met with at one of the gold mines in the South Oural ; one
of these was presented to me : I deeply regret to say that it is
either mislaid or has been lost on the journey.
Rose tourmaline is found at the village of Sarapulsk, near 5Iur-
sinsk. This is also a rare mineral ; I have seen but one crystal
pure and transparent. Small specimens cut into gems are some
times to be got in Ekaterineburg under the name of " malina
sheri." Smoke topaz is met with in many places in the Oural —
some beautifully transparent, which they cut into seals of most
elegant form. Pure transparent quartz also passes under the
name of topaz : large quantities of seals are made of this, and
sold in Ekaterineburg, on whioh the lapidaries cut figures, coats
of arms, or ciphers, at a very moderate cost. This forms quite a
trade, as the workmen employed in the Granilnoi Fabric cut
these articles at home in the evenings and holidays, using a small
foot-lathe. Malachite is also worked into a variety of beautiful
ornaments, such as vases, work-boxes, tables, paper-weights,
brooches, and beads, for which they find a ready sale.
Aquamarina is brought to Ekaterineburg from Eastern Siberia.
. It is obtained near Nertchinsk, sometimes in very fine crystals of
great value; these are cut into bracelets, brooches, ear-rings,
stones for pins, rings, and other ornaments, and have a most
sparkling and brilliant effect. Besides gems and seals, the lapi
daries make tables, small vases, and paper-weights, in great num
bers, of the different jaspers and porphyries, many of great beauty
both in design and color. Some of the jasper paper-weights
bave a bunch of grapes in amethyst, with foliage on the top,
beautifully executed.
An extensive manufactory of stearine has recently been estab
lished near Ekaterineburg ; and as tallow is brought from Siberia
and the Kerghis Steppe in enormous quantities, it is the inten-
tior of the company to make stearine, and send it in casks into
Europe ; also to make sufficient candles to supply the whole of
Siberia. This will, no doubt, prove a most profitable concern, if
properly carried on.
Two enterprising young engineers have established machine
works in Ekaterineburg; they are both practical men; one of
them a very superior man. There is every hope that they will
succeed. I do not wish it for their advantage alone, but for the
general good they will confer on the Siberians, by introducing

90 MANUFACTURE OF SHEET IRON.
into that region machinery required for various useful purposes.
The late chief of the Oural created many difficulties, aud re
tarded their operations ; a more enlightened man will pursue a
different course, and benefit the people.
Verkne Issetzskoi Zavod, about three versts from Ekaterine
burg, belongs to the Yakovlif family, and here resides the chief
director of the whole of their vast mining property. These works
have long been celebrated for the quality of sheet iron, which
stands unrivalled. This Zavod has the appearance of a consid
erable town, with its large furnaces, churches, and other build
ings. There is one enormous pile, in which are all the offices for
the administration of this vast mining property ; beneath are large
warehouses for iron and other produce. Here are blast-furnaces
for smelting the ore, forging mills, tilting mills, and rolling mills
for bar and sheet iron, including every process until finished for
the market, and each department is admirably managed.
The sheet iron made in this Zavod, and at some of the other
works belonging to it, surpasses all other productions of the kind
either in the Oural or elsewhere. It is rolled for various pur
poses — for covering the roofs of houses, for sheet-iron stoves, also
for the manufacture of a great variety of utensils. The metal is
of so excellent a quality that I have seen it rolled as thin as post
paper, without either crack or blemish, and with a jet black polish.
An enormous quantity of the various sorts of this manufacture is
sent to America, where it is most extensively used.
The chief director, and the different officers under him, deserve
the highest praise, everything in these works being conducted
with the greatest order. The public buildings have been erected
in good taste, and are well suited for the purposes intended. The
cottages for the artificers are of a superior class, the streets are
kept clean and in good order, and the people look healthy and
very comfortable in their dwellings.

NIJNE ISSETZSKOI ZAVOD. 91
CHAPTER VIL
IRON AND GOLD WORKS.
I MUST now pass to the South Oural, down the valley of the
Issetz to Nijne Issetzskoi Zavod — iron- works belonging to the
crown, where most of the castings required for the machine
works in Ekaterineburg are made, from which it is only twelve
versts distant.
On both sides of the valley low hills rise up, covered to the top
with pine and larch trees, among which are seen the silvery birch
waving its delicate foliage. In the valley a large lake has been
formed by carrying a high embankment across the Issetz ; and
here stand the blast-furnaces, belching forth their smoke and
fl.ame. When seen from the lake on a dark night, with their re
flections cast on the water, and black figures dimly lighted by the
red glare flitting past — sometimes in groups, at others singly, but
soon lost in gloom — the scene has a touch of the infernal about
it ; still, it is highly picturesque and grand. After passing the
Zavod the valley extends in width, and in many parts is very
pretty ; clumps of trees with grassy meadows, with the river
winding along, sometimes lost in woods, then again breaking forth,
shining like frosted silver as it rolls over its rocky bed. Twenty-
two versts from Ekaterineburg is the village of Aramilskoi : at
this place the road leaves the valley of the Issetz, passing over
some low hills more toward the ridge of the Oural. After tra
velling about ten versts it descends into the valley of the River
Syssert, in which stands Syssertskoi Zavod — iron-works belonging
to the family of Salemerskoi, one of whom has taken up his abode
here. The situation is pretty, and well sheltered among wooded
hills. On approaching the Zavod, the church, hospitals; fur
naces, and warehouses have a very imposing appearance; the
streets are well laid out, and the cottages built in a much
better style than is usually adopted in the Oural. Altogether,
the town was clean, and evidently kept under the eye of the
master. Mr. Salemerskoi is undoubtedly a man of good taste, and pos
sesses some valuable works of art. He is a good musician as well

92 FRUIT-TREES UNDER GLASS.
as a horticulturist, and his garden, green-houses, and hot-houses
are on an extensive scale. He has a large orangery, well stocked
witt lemon and orange trees, some in full fruit, others in blossom,
giving out a delicious perfume. There is also a very large house
in which cherries, plums, and peaches are grown in great perfec
tion. It was, indeed, a pleasure to see these trees in full blos
som ; they reminded me of home and my childhood, bringing to
my recollection scenes that oan never return. As such trees can
not stand this climate, it is only under glass that the fruit can be
produced. His flowers and tropical plants are splendid, and well
arranged in several different houses to suit their proper tempera
ture : in one there was a collection of more than 200 sorts of
calceolaria, and almost every plant in flower; I never saw any
thing more gorgeous : the colors were perfectly dazzling, and
were in all shades, from the deepest purple, crimson, scarlet, and
orange, to a pale yellow ; these, with the beautiful green of their
foliage, produced an enchanting effect. Mr. Salemerskoi is also
devoting his attention to the breeding of English horses, and
possesses some very fine animals.
Having spent two days in this Zavod, sketching a view of the
works, on I travelled over a wooded, undulating country. In some
parts extensive tracts of rye were growing most luxuriantly, in
others fine pastures for cattle extended far among the trees: the
verdure and foliage indicated that I was going in a southerly
direction. The country for about thirty-five versts after leaving
Syssertskoi has not one single point either of interest or beauty,
but on approaching Lake Silatch the scenery improves ; to the
west of the lake pine-clad hills rise up until overtopped by Mount
Sugomac and the crest of the Oural. From this point the road
passes into a fine woodland country, sometimes through rich pas
ture-land, with large clumps of birch and poplars. Occasionally
the path was close on the shore of the lake, which was exoeed
ingly shallow and rocky ; again the road turned into the woods,
winding along some park-like scenery, until at length Kaslinskoii
was seen standing close upon the margin of the lake, with its
Zavod sending up a dense black smoke ; its churches and other
large buildings, with their green doraes and golden crosses
sparkling in the sun, gave it a grand and imposing appearance.
These iron-works are famed throughout the Oural for the supe
rior quality of castings they produce. On going through the

MANSION OF A MINER. 93
warehouse, I was astonished by the sharpness and beauty of the
different articles manufactured, consisting of tables, perforated in
tracery and foliage, most delicately executed ; chairs of a similar
pattem, small boxes, baskets, and dishes for cards, in beautiful
open-work; animals, paper-weights, and various other articles,
cast equal to anything produced in Berlin. With a good designer
and carver in these works, they could cast anything, as the metal
used possesses muoh fluidity.
From this Zavod the road runs along the shore of the Irtiash
Lake, whioh is near twenty versts in length, and in places ten
broad, extending nearly up to the foot of Mount Sugomac. Some
parts of the eastern shores are rocky, but of no great elevation ;
here and there very large masses have been detached from the
rocks, and are now lying at a considerable distance. It is some
what difficult to account for their removal ; small blocks would be
forced out into the lake by the recoil of the waves, but masses
weighing from sixty to one hundred tons are not so easily moved.
They may have been lifted out with the ice during a gale of wind,
as sometimes the storm tumbles the water about in the lakes
fearfully. A short distance to the east there is another lake,
KizU-tash ; this is also of considerable dimensions. In fact, the
country abounds in lakes, interspersed among flne woodland
scenery and rich pastures.
After passing the Kizil-tash, the road erosses some thickly-
wooded hills for about five or six versts ; then we looked down
into the valley beneath, and saw at a short distance Kishtymsky
Zavod, with its large mansion called the castle.. It is, indeed, an
enormous edifice, forming three sides of a quadrangle, with its
out-buildings, and enclosed on the fourth with a wall and iron
railing ; in the centre are massive brick gate-piers and iron gates.
This dwelling of a miner in the Oural would make some of our
best baronial mansions look insignificant, if placed in contrast
with it. The building is of brick, now become black from the
smoke of the iron-works, whioh stand at a short distance to the
west. Nor has it been finished externally ; ouly a very sniull
part has been plastered with cement, just sufiicient to show the
design and details, whioh are exceedingly bold. The interior has
been corapleted ; in the centre, on the ground floor, there is a
large entrance-hall, with a beautiful groined ceiling in brick
work J beyond this is a large room, also groined and made fire-

94 LUXURIOUS VEGETATION.
proof, the ceiling well finished with ribs and tracery ; the centre
window opens to the floor, leading to a large circular --portioo,
from whioh two circular flights of stone steps descend into the
garden. The whole of this floor is used by the director for his
residence. At each end of the building are two magnificent stone
staircases leading to the upper story, which contains the principal
rooms : they are most spacious and lofty. Here, again, we see
the hand of Demidoff, this place having also been built by him.
Every plan that has been made either by him or under his direc
tion, possesses something characteristic of the man. In mines,
and all connected therewith, he has shown a mind as great as his
patron's ; and so long as a mine is worked or a furnace smelts
ore in the Oural, his name will descend to each succeeding gene
ration as one of the most distinguished of his era.
The situation for this mansion has been well chosen, near the
head of the lake ; the views from the principal rooms take in the
finest points in this part of the Oural, and some are particularly
beautiful. Mount Sugomac is seen rising high above the lake,
forming the last watch-tower looking over Siberia. Here I also
observed the sun go down. When just below the horizon, a
splendid yellow and orange color spread over the sky, with deep
crimson clouds stretching along in feathery and wavy lines; higher
up rolled billowy masses, tinged on their lower edges with a deep
red shading into gray. Against this golden sky Sugomac reared
his dark purple crest, which, with his misty ravines and dense
forests, were distinctly reflected in Nature's mirror at his feet.
Then the glorious colors of the sky were shed upon this lake,
lighting it up like liquid flre, and it was rendered still more bril
liant by the deep shade of evening spread over the dark woods
which surround it. Truth obliges me to add that during the
summer months no one occupies these rooms, and this magnificent
scenery, therefore, excites no admiration.
The garden, which extends along the shore of the lake, has
some fine avenues of lime-trees, now in full bloom, forming a most
de.ightful shade in summer. These, and the great variety of
flowers and shrubs in bloom, gave forth a most delicious fragrance;
in addition, from the midst of the shrabbery the nightingale
warbled forth his delightful song. Such enjoyments, with the
gentle ripple of the lake, and the calm and beautiful sunset, which
diffused over everything a heavenly radiance, made me forget that

HAPPY VALLEY. 95
I was on the border of that much-dreaded and often-abused Si
beria. Having remained several days at this Zavod, sketching the
scenery, visiting Mount Sugomac with its caverns, one of whioh
is said to be three hundred feet in length, and other interesting
objects, I took leave of my hospitable host and passed on to other
scenes. My road was along the eastern flank of the chain to
Soimanofsky gold mines ; there the scenery becomes more wild :
masses of rook are seen among the pine and birch trees, and not
far to the eastward is Lake Uvaldi, with its small islands. In
this region lakes are very nuinerous : I have been told that more
than one hundred can be seen from the summit of Mount Sugomac.
After crossing the River Kialim, I followed its course to Lake
Argasi, in the Ilman-tou, which was worth sketching. My route
was now up the valley of the River Maias, in which there are
several gold mines : some have been very rich ; they are the pro
perty of the crown. This valley is beautifully studded with
birch, poplar, and willows ; several kinds of flowering shrubs are
also growing along the banks of the river ; and, being well shel
tered from the cold winds, the herbage, flowers, and foliage were
most luxuriant. In the open glades a splendid crop of grass was
growing, in some places nearly up to my shoulders ; of this I had
abundant proof, having walked through it, and shot many double
snipes while crossing to one of the gold mines. In a few days
the whole of this grass will be cut down and made into hay,
affording to the hardy peasants of the district abundance of
winter food for their cattle. Every family in this region pos
sesses horses, cows, pigs, and often poultry; good milk and cream
they always have, but few of them understand how to make good
butter. Their gardens will produce almost every kind of vegeta
ble. On the hills is found plenty of vrild fruit — strawberries,
red and black currants, bilberries, a wild cherry growing on a
small plant not more than two feet high, and raspberries, all
having a most delicious flavor. In the mountains there is plenty
of game, not protected by game-laws. Each peasant walks off
with his rifle, kills either birds or deer, and then returns to his
cottage to feast on his spoil. In most of the mountain streams
grayling are found in great numbers, and very large pike are
caught in the lakes.
Leaving this lovely valley, the road crosses the Oural-tou to the

96 ZLATAOrST.
westward, skirting round the rocky summits called Alexandei
sopka, named after the present emperor, who visited it when in the
Oural. This forms the watershed between Europe and Asia, and
into the latter the Maias, along whose banks I had been travel
ling, runs. Having crossed the ridge, the road descends rapidly
into the valley of the River Ai, which finds its way through many
a winding gorge into Europe. At a short distance below the
summit of the ridge I had a beautiful view looking down into the
valley, where I observed a large lake, and a small part of Zlata-
oust, its white buildings shining brightly in the sun at the foot
of the Urengk.
The descent was rather abrupt in some places, and afforded, at
the different turnings of the road, several fine views of the higher
peaks of the South Oural ; and at about ten versts distant to the
northeast is Taganai, signifying, in the Bashkir language, " Tri
pod of the Moon," which rises boldly above the surrounding
mountains. Its bold rocky peaks are seen from a great distance ;
and the best aventurine found in the Oural has been obtained
from some rocks near the summit. To the southwest are seen
Irerael and laman-tou : these three are the highest points in the
South Oural. After a gallop of about seven versts down this
steep descent (a speed the yemstchick considers absolutely neces
sary), we reached the valley, where the road turns sharp round
toward the north ; and here stands a small chapel, at which the
passing peasant always offers up his prayers. From this point
there is a fine view of Taganai.
The road now runs at a short distance from the shore of the
lake, affording a good view of Zlataoust, nestled between the moun
tains, with the UrengJi rising far above it. After crossing the
small river Tisma on a rough wooden bridge, the road turns to
the west, under the high rocks at the head of the lake, alpng
which we bounded, and in about ten minutes were gallopping at
full speed into Zlataoust. There was a great festival ; the people
were all going about in their holiday attire ; the women and girls
dressed, as usual, in very gay colors, and playing in groups ; and
the bright sunny day made the Zavod look absolutely charmin".
Zlataoust is the Birmingham and Sheffield of the Oural, and
stands on the banks of the River Ai, in a very narrow part of the
valley. A high embankment has been carried across, which has
formed a lake sis or seven versts long, and about two versts broad.

GENERAL ANOSSOFP. 97
Here are erected all the different works required for this great
manufactory of arms, to which this body of water gives the
moving power.
There is a large blast furnace where the ores are smelted ; also
forgiqg mills, in which the pig iron is hammered into bars ; in
fact every process is carried on, until the raw material becomes
steel. Up to the year 1847 these works were under the adminis
tration of General Anossoff, one of the most skilful and ingenious
metallurgists of the age.
Here is also an enormous fire-proof building, consisting of three
stories. In the ground floor, sabres, swords, daggers, cuirasses,
and helmets are forged, while in the upper stories every other
process is carried on (except grinding, whioh is done in another
large building near at hand) until the weapons are completed.
The etching and ornamenting on some of the swords are most
exquisitely executed. These workshops were designed by, and
built under the direction of General Anossoff. I have not seen
either in Birmingham or Sheffield any establishment that can
compare with them ; indeed, this is one of the most extensive
and best-arranged fabrics of arms in Europe.
There is also an excellent museum, built by order of the Em
peror Alexander the First, containing a fine collection of arms,
cuirasses, and similar curiosities, with specimens of every variety
of sabre, sword, or other arms manufactured in these works since
the commencement of the establishment, beautifully disposed in
columns and pyramids ; several of the rooms are splendidly deco
rated with arms and implements of war. There is also a library,
and a well-arranged collection of minerals.
These works had been under the care and management of
Colonel Anossoff for many years previous to 1847, in the spring
of which I first made his acquaintance. During this long period
the colonel had turned his attention to the ancient art of damas
cening arms, which had long been lost in Europe ; and he, by
indefatigable zeal, with much skill succeeded in rescuing this
long-lost art from oblivion. Being placed on the confines of Asia,
where damask blades are still held in high estimation, he had
opportunities of seeing sabres, ataghans, and daggers of great
value, which some of the Asiatic chiefs still possess ; also of pro
curing specimens through the aid of the caravans from Khiva,
Bokhara, and even India. Added to this, General Perroffsky,
7

98 DEATH OF ANOSSOFF.
the govemor of Orenburg, and commander-in-chief of the army
in this region, had one of the rarest private collections of ancient
and modern arms in the world, and with a liberality which so
truly characterizes a great mind, placed it at the disposal of An
ossoff. Select examples were taken to Zlataoust, their material
and fabrication studied with untiring assiduity, and chemical
experiments resorted to, until, step by step, and after years of
toil, damascene sabres and arms were produced, perhaps unequal
led even in ancient, certainly never approached in modern times.
In the summer of 1847 General Anossoff was made Governor
of Tomsk, and Chief of the Mines in the Altai. He soon removed
to his new appointment, which prevented our meeting again until
the following winter. On my return to Barnaoul, after my first
ramble in the Altai, with true hospitable kindness he invited me
to his house, and, feeling much interest in his discoveries, I often
made them the subjeet of our conversation. Although removed
to other regions, far from the spot on which he had through many
a sleepless night wrought out his path to fame, besides having
other important functions to discharge, he found time to pursue
his favorite study, and actually began making steel, or, as he
named it, Boulat, tlje material which he used for making damas
cene arms. In May, 1848, I accompanied him to some of the
Zavods in the Altai, at one of which he said, " I will make arms
here even superior to those I have made at Zlataoust, and this
shall be the Birmingham of the Altai."
Here we separated, and I wandered far over Asia before we
met again in March, 1850 : he was still occupied with his re
searches, and showed me some dagger-blades made in the Altai,
which he considered peculiarly fine. I often urged the general
to complete his treatise on this subject, one in an abridged form
having been published several years before, since which time
important and valuable results have proceeded from his investi
gations. I was assured that every process had been carefully
noted down, and that he.was in possession of much invaluable
infonnation, which at some future time would be given to the
world. In 1851, while I was sketching among the mountains and
plains on which more than six hundred years before Genghis
Khan marshalled his vast hosts, my friend died at Omsk : not one
member of his family was near to soothe his last moments or

DAMASCENE BLADES. 99
receive his parting blessing, they being in St. Petersburg, near
two thousand miles distant.*
When Anossoff left Zlataoust its glory departed as far as
regards damascening arms. The works were placed under the
superintendence of a mind infinitely inferior ; and in the summer

* Captain James Abbott, of the Honorable Bast India Company's Artillery,
has paid a just tribute to the genius of Anossoff in his narrative of "A Journey
from Heraut to St. Petersburg." I may also add that his visit to the " Siberian
home" of this amiable family has never been forgotten. 1 am also in a position
to add that the shawl in which he was wounded in the night attack of the
Huzzauks has been united, and is still preserved as a treasure by his Ouralian
friends. " So far Colonel Anossoff [he was made a general in 1843], a man
whose researches in this department of science have enabled him to revive the
natural damask in a degree of perfection which I have never observed in the
workmanship even of the ancients, and whicb certainly cannot be approached
by fabrics of any Eastern nation at present existing. The Russian damask,
on the contrary, discovered by my friend Colonel Anossoff, is natural. It is
a peculiar modification of cast steel, by which it is impressed with a peculiar
character in its crystallization, whioh character betrays itself when the corro
sion of acids, by acting more violently between the interstices of the structure
than elsewbere, traces out the arrangement of the crystals. This property is
communicated to the damask of Zlataoust by a process tending to perfect the
quality of the steel, and to impress upon cast steel the elastic properties of a
softer material. The general fault of European blades is, that, being forged
of shear steel for the sake of elasticity, they are scarcely perceptible of the
keen edge that cast steel will assume. The genius of Anossoff has triumphed
over this objection, not in hardening the soft steel, but in giving elasticity to
the hard j and it may be doubted whether any fabric in the world can compete
with that of Zlataoust in the production of weapons combining an equal
degree of edge and elasticity. The water of this variety of damask resembles
most that of No. 5, of my list above. It is a sucoession of small bundles of
almost parallel lines, occupying the whole breadth of the blade, the ends of
the bundles crossing and mingling at the point of junction ,' I have called
them nearly parallel lines, because such they are to superficial observation.
They, are, however, a series of minute curves, forming together lines, disposed
in bundles articulated together, and dividing the length of the weapon into
many sections. They have not the regular articulation of the articulated
Khorussaunie blade ; their lines are infinitely finer. I have seen several,
which were condemned for insufiicient temper, submitted to the action of the
engine by which they are broken. The blades were bent double, and back
again, several times ere they could be divided. The red hue observed upon
damask blades I have seen only on those of Zlataoust."
In another part of his narrative the captain expresses a hope that the man
who is " building to himself and his country a name in the world of science"
may not, like too many of the illustrious, wear his laurels over his tomb.
Alas ! his country has not added one stoue to his simple monument, or a lino
to his epitaph. He lies forgotten by all except his family, and a few friends
who knew hia worth.

100 SINGULAR INCIDENT.
of 1853, on my visit to Zlataoust, I found that a damask blade
could not be manufactured. On my return from Asia I brought
with me a few of these blades, and one I presented to a friend
who has sought glory at the cannon's mouth. At present he fills
a most honorable post in his country's service. Should he at any -
future time be called upon to lead her sons to battle, I trust he
will do it with this brand ; it is one that will never fail him : he
will find it true as his own courage.
After sketching in Zlataoust and the neighborhood, I visited
the mines where garnets and some other rare minerals are ob
tained. I also sketched a few scenes on tlie river Ai. I left
the place with regret, and, as I ascended from the valley, looked
back on the spot where my friend had successfully labored, con
vinced that I should never see it again. My road was now up
the Oural-tou, over which I must cross to the gold mines in the
south. The peaks of the Oural-tou are on the line dividing Asia
and Europe : they are rugged and picturesque. The highest of
these rooks has been named Alexander-sopka, and an inscription
near the summit records the date of the Grand-Duke Alexander's
ascent. These peaks are about 2500 feet above the level of the
sea, and are seen at a great distance when approaching the Oural
from the steppes of Asia.
Not far from this sumrait, in one of the valleys of the Taganai,
a singular incident happened to an old woman. Her cow had
strayed, and was nowhere to be found in her usual pastures.
This gave the good dame considerable anxiety. At last she de
termined to search for her in the higher valleys. Leaving her
cottage early one morning, she rambled on for several hours, and
at length found herself far up on the Taganai without coming
upon any traces of the fugitive. This was very di.sheartening;
still, she would not give up her search. The valley she had
entered upon was thickly wooded with pines in many parts ; in
others there were fine open glades, with clumps of bushes and
shrubs, and among these she wended her way from one little plot
of grass to another. At last she spied the well-known dark brown
hide through sorae bushes. The old woman thought of the many
hours she had been searching for the truant, and, stealing softly
on, determined to ,£rive her sufficient ehasti.sement. When within
reach of her birchen staff, the blows fell fast. Up sprang the
animal and turned sharp round, when, to the dame's horror, she

ANNA PETRCVUAIA. 101
Baw a large brown bear. The two stood staring at each other,
apparently with equal astonishment and apprehension, when
Bruin, seized with a sudden panic, turned tail and bolted.
Near the scene of this heroine's adventure, two children, one
four and the other six years old, rambled away from their friends,
who were hay-making. They had gone from one thicket to an
other gathering fruit, laughing and enjoying the fun. At last
they came near a bear lying on the grass, and, without the slightest
apprehension, went up to him. He looked at them steadily with
out moving ; at length they began playing with him, and mounted
upon his back, which he submitted to with perfect good-humor.
In short, both seemed inclined to be pleased with each other ;
indeed, the children were delighted with their new playfellow.
The parents, missing the truants, became alarmed, and followed
on their track. They were not long in searching out the spot,
when, to their dismay, they beheld one ohild sitting on the bear's
back, and the other feeding him with fruit ! They called quickly,
when the youngsters ran to their friends, and Bruin, apparently
not liking the interruption, went away into the forest.
I shall frequently have occasion to speak of Cossack and Kal
muck hunters, also of the daring of the Siberian peasant in his
combats with the bear, but shall now introduce to my readers one
of my acquaintances of the softer sex, who was not surpassed in
courage and daring by either Kalmuck or Cossack. In one of my
rambles after leaving Pavdinska, which led me to the east of Ver.
koturia and as far as the River Tavda, I came upon a party of
peasants in the forest cutting wood, and among them were several
women. It was here that I first made the acquaintance of Anna
Petrovnaia, the bear-hunter. Her fame has spread far from the
scenes of her conflicts with Bruin, who has not in the wide range
of Siberia a more intrepid or dangerous enemy. At this time she
was about thirty-two years of age, neither tall nor stout, but her
step was flrm, and she was strong and active. Her countenance
was soft and pleasing; indeed, there was nothing in her appear
anoe that indicated her extraordinary intrepidity. It is true she
came of a good stock, her father and brothers being famous
hunters. I was informed that very early in life she had displayed
a love for the chase ; and having been taught how to use the rifle,
many wolves and other animals had fallen by her hand. Each
time that bear-skins were brought home by the different members

102 A HEROINE.
of her family, her desire increased to add one to her other spoils.
Without breathing a word to any one, and with this object in
view, she set out on a sporting ramble, the conversations of hor
family having afforded sufficient intimation of the course she ought
to take.
One day a large black bear had been seen by one of her
brothers when ranging through the forest with his pea-rifle in
quest of smaller game. This was spoken of in her presence, and
the plan of a campaign arranged, to be carried into effect in a day
or two. The next morning, long before any member of the house-
told had left their beds, she had put on her hunting-gear, saddled
a horse, slung her rifle over her shoulder, and rode away. Anna
was so erratic in her movements that her absence caused no un
easiness, and before day dawned she was many versts from the
cottage. Early in the morning she reached the forest and secured
her horse, so that he might feed while she penetrated the thick
and tangled wood before her.
There was a heavy dew on the grass in the open glades, and
sbe observed that Bruin was taking his morning ramble, his track
being quite fresh. Looking to the priming of her rifle, and add
ing powder from her flask, she went on with a firm step. The
bear had made many turnings on his march, but she followed him
with all the sagacity of a bloodhound, and never once lost his
trail. Hour after hour passed, however, and she had not caught
a glimpse of him. As it threatened to be a long chase, Anna had
recourse to her little bag, sat down by a small stream and made
her breakfast on a piece of rye bread, washed down with a draught
from the pure liquid flowing at her feet. Haviug ended her frugal
meal, she shouldered her rifle and again pushed on. She had
another long and fruitless walk. Satisfied, however, that she was
on his track, she pursued it till she arrived at a bed of high plants,
that included the giant fennel, of the flowers of which the bears
are very fond. While proceeding along the edge of this bed, a
fresh indication, well known to hunters, assured her that the long-
Bought-for game was at hand. As she was creeping cautiously
forward, out rashed the bear, with a loud growl, about twenty
yards in front. Quickly she threw forward the prongs of her
rifle, dropped on one knee, and got a good sight, the animal
staring at her almost motionless. She now touched the trigger,
there followed a flash, a savage growl succeeded, then a struggle

AN IMPERIAL GOLD-DIGGER. IOS
for a minute or two, and her wish was accomplished : the bear lay
dead !
After taking off his skin, she started in search of her horse,
which she found at no great distance, for she had been brought
back nearly to the spot where she commenced the chase. She
was shortly on her way home, and astonished her family, on her
entrance to the cottage, by throwing the skin on the floor. Sinoe
this time Anna Petrovnaia has engaged with and killed sixteen
hears. Our horses were tumed once more toward the south, and by a
winding track we descended to the Tchomia, passing from this
into a longitudinal valley thickly wooded with birchj aspen, and
poplar. We were now entering into the golden regions; and
after passing one small chain of hills, should soon reach Zarevo-
Alexandroffsky, lying in a broad valley, with several conical hills
rising up of no great elevation. Formerly this tract was exceed
ingly rich in gold alluvium, very many lumps of solid gold having
been found here varjdng from one pound to flfteen, ihen considered
enormous masses of the precious metal.
In the year 1824, the Emperor Alexander the First visited the
Oural and the different Zavods belonging to the crown and to
private persons. The gold mines also received some of his
majesty's attention, this region in particular, as large pieces had
not been found in any other place. Lumps of fifteen pounds
weight are unquestionably worth digging for, and perhaps this
induced the emperor to excavate for gold in a part of the mine
with his own hands. After digging and delving for somewhat
more than an hour, his imperial majesty's arms intimated that
wielding the pickaxe and shovel was physically more laborious
than holding the sceptre. He gave up, having thrown out a
quantity of sand from which some gold was washed in small grains.
A workman continued the excavation, and at the depth of two
feet below where his majesty left off digging, found a lump weigh
ing twenty-four pounds sixty-eight zolotniks. To commemorate
the event, and point out the exact spot on which his imperial
majesty labored as a gold-digger, a small pyramid was ereoted.
These mines continued to be worked with great success for
many years. In 1843 another large piece, weighing two poods
four pounds, was found at no great depth under one of the old
buildings. Years before, they had excavated all round it, little

104 Alexander's monument.
dreaming of tbe treasure over which the workmen trampled daily.
The peasant who discovered this large mass was made free by the
late Emperor Nicholas, and a pension granted him for life. It is
only in this valley, near a small stream named Tash-kuturgun,
and immediately around the work of Zarevo-Alexandroffsky, that
the large pieoes have been found. In 1853 these mines were still
being worked successfully. I was greatly surprised to flnd the
gold alluvium covering the small hills ; in some places there were
not more than twelve inches in depth of this earthy matter above
the rocks, and in many places these elevations were covered with
bushes. The workmen were stripping the rocks, and sending
their gold-bestudded garments to the washing-machine.
This quiet little valley, less than half a century ago, was smil
ing in verdant beauty, and covered with a rich green turfy carpet,
bespangled with many a blossom, while various flowering and
other shrubs were dotted about in masses, among which the wild
deer wandered with her fawn, cropping the young shoots, and
sporting on every glade, divested of fear. But man's thirst for
gold led him hither, and he is rooting up the earth from every
crevice, absolutely sweeping the rooks bare, and leaving them
bleaching in the sun.
But man and his works have their appointed time : the mighty
sovereign who here dug up the dust has returned to his mother
earth, and the small pyramid built little more than thirty years
ago has fallen into decay, and no relic of it remains. A subscrip
tion was raised among the mining engineers in the Oural to erect
a more lasting monument on the place. A granite basement has
been built, with an arched recess on one side, closed in by a pair
of iron doors, wherein a table is placed, on which stands a small
box containing some of the grains of gold dug out by his imperial
majesty; the shovel and pickaxe used on the occasion rest beside
the box ; above them hangs a picture of a saint. These relics are
carefully guarded.
On the top of this granite basement, which is diminished by
four steps, a cast-iron pedestal is placed, having panels on the
sides ; on one is an inscription, and on the others military tro
phies. It would have been more in character to have filled the
compartments with bas-reliefs, showing the digging, washing, and
other processes used in collecting gold. At each angle, on the
corner of tbe pedestal, sits tbe double-headed eagle. Above the

AN ENGLISH ECCENTRIC. 105
pedestal rises up a Corinthian column, with a wreath of oak-leaves
twisted round it, very well executed, both in the modelling and
casting. On the top of the capital stands a bust of his imperial
majesty Alexander the First — an excellent likeness. This monu
ment will laiSt for ages, unless hurled down by an earthquake.
About two hundred yards from the column a wooden po.st marks
the place where the large piece was found in 1843 : both are de
posited in the museum of the Imperial Sohool of Mines.
I spent three days visiting the gold mines, and sketching seve
ral views in this valley, once so rich in the precious ore. Even
now it is interesting, as all the lower hills of the Oural are well
wooded and picturesque ; and farther down in the valley are seve
ral small lakes, in whioh are found great numbers of water-fowl.

CHAPTER VIIL
ENGLISHMEN IN THE OURAL.

English mechanics have been employed in the Oural from a
very early period in its mining operations. More than one of them
have become celebrated for their eccentricity, whose names will be
handed down through many generations in 'bounection with the
works. In the reign of the Emperor Paul, a young meehanio,
named Major, was engaged by the Russian govemment, and sent
to Ekaterineburg, to superintend a small mechanical establishment.
In this town Major spent a long life, and constructed many ma
chines, which, rude as they were, proved of essential value in the
mining districts. Peasants were sent to him from the different
villages, who had never in their lives seen any mechanical tools
except an axe and a saw; indeed, they were supremely ignorant.
In making a cog-wheel, when the cogs and spaces had been divided
for them, they never supposed it of the slightest moment if the
cog happened to be an inch thicker than was required, the space
less, or vice versd, if it suited their humor.
Major entered upon his duties scarcely knowing a word of the
Russian language, which, of course, added muoh to his difficulties.
However, as years rolled on he acquired some knowledge of it.
German he also learned by ooming in contact with the miners,

l-*6 A royal present.
many of whom were from the Hartz Mountains. French was
spoken by the superior officers in the Oural, and he contrived to
add a little of this to his stock. His pay was liberal, and living
cheap, which enabled him to maintain a good establishment. He
was kind and good-natured to the workmen, and gained their
esteem, as well as that of the officers who served under him, while
his eccentricity afforded a fund of amusement for all. After con
ducting the machine works for some ten or twelve years, a better
understanding prevailed. He established a sort of jargon pecu
liarly his own. In giving his instructions he would begin in Buss,
add a few words of German, then a scrap of French, glide into an
English sentence, and conclude with a thundering oath.
He was peculiar in his habits, and particular about the ma
chinery under his charge being kept in good order. When dressing
in the moming he invariably put on three pairs of stockings, and
a pair of wide Russian boots over them. Thus prepared, he would
sally forth on a tour of inspection, and the first soil he discovered,
he would call for the engineer and rate him in a polyglot of an
exoeedingly impressive character; then would sit down, pull off his
boot, and draw off a stocking, with which he would personally
remove the dirt or stain. On he went, repeating the operation as
often as necessary, leaving a stooking at eaoh place where it had
been used, and returning home in the evening sometimes with one
stooking on, and very often with bare legs. Woe betide the delin
quent who failed to bring home the stocking left at his machine,
for the birch would be sure to refresh his memory the next morn
ing : he never forgave this neglect.
When the Emperor Alexander the First visited the Oural, his
imperial majesty was greatly pleased with the works Major had
established, and, as a token of his satisfaction, presented him with
a piece of land containing about twenty English acres, with all
the minerals it contained, and gold was known to be deposited
there. Though several versts distant from Ekaterineburg, Major
built for himself a house here, still holding his situation of prin
cipal engineer to the Oural mines. A few years later he began to
excavate and wash the gold sand, usually obtaining more than two
poods of gold a year at a very small cost of labor. This was
worth about £3500. He had gone on in this way for several
years, living at his country house with very few people about him,
often having no domestic except an old woman. The gold-wash-

MURDER OF MAJOR. 107
ing ceased about the middle of September, and the workmen em
ployed were paid their wages and returned to their homes. The
quantity of precious metal obtained during the summer was accu-
ratoly known to these men, each day's produce being weighed,
entered in a book, and delivered to Major every evening. He
deposited it in an iron box which stood in his cabinet, and earried
the key in his pocket. This year had been more than usually
productive, and there were more than three poods of gold in the
box. It was also well known that within a very short period of
the works closing the engineer would send this box and its con
tents to the smelting works in Ekaterineburg to be cast into bars,
after which it would be forwarded to the Mint in St. Petersburg.
One Sunday evening Major and his old housekeeper were alone
in the house, he occupied in his cabinet, and she sitting in her own
room not far from the entrance-door. Suddenly her atttention was
drawn to a noise in the outward lobby, which induced her to leave
the room. The moment she got into the entrance, she was seized
and thrown down a staircase leading to some apartments below.
Her screams and the noise reached Major in his cabinet, who
rushed out with a candle in his hand, when a blow from an axe
fell upon his head, and he never breathed again. After this the
murderers possessed themselves of the box and gold, ransacked the
place in search of other treasure, and then departed, closing the
doors after them. All this time the old woman was lying at the
foot of the stairs in a state of insensibility, quite unconscious of
the tragedy which had been enacted in the rooms above. It was
not until the morning of the third day after that one of the officers
from the machine works went to consult Major on some matter of
importance. On reaching the house no smoke was rising from the chimney,
the windows were closed, and a solemn stillness reigned over the
place, which oppressed him with unpleasant forebodings. After
securing his horse in the usual place, he ascended the steps and
entered the house, where lay the ghastly and mutilated body of
his friend still grasping the candlestick. Rushing from the house,
he sprang into his saddle and gallopped furiously to announce the
terrible discovery. Presently other officers and the police were
seen hurrying toward the spot, the news spreading rapidly, and
causing a great sensation. Search was made, and the old woman
found at the bottom of the stairs, still living, but insensible.

108 GOLD STEALING.
Every means were adopted to restore consciousness, whioh in time
was effected. It was only then that she learned what had befallen
her master, but she could give no description of the villains.
A strict investigation commenced, when it was ascertained that
the gold had been carried off, though the papers and letters he
had been writing remained on his table untouched. Suspicion
fell on the workmen, who were seized and examined, but it was
clearly proved that they were innocent. The housekeeper remained
in a very critical state, so great had been the injuries she had re
ceived by the fall and the effect which the murder had produced
on her mind : she relapsed into a state of unconsciousness, and so
remained for many weeks, medical aid being useless. At last she
began to revive ; gradually improving in strength, her mind became
calm, aud her reason perfectly restored. Great hopes were now
entertained that she would be able to give evidence by which this
mystery might be unravelled.
It was a well-known fact that Major was in the habit of sitting
up till a very late hour, and the woman proved beyond all doubt
that the murder had been committed about a quarter before two
o'clock in the morning. She had been seized so suddenly that she
could not tell how many men were in the lobby, but she thought
only three. This was all the evidence that could be obtained ; a
strict watch, however, was kept over the actions of several men, in
the expectation of their trying to dispose of the gold. One of
them was a small merchant, whose dealings in gold the police had
some reason to suspect. He was taken and examined, but he
clearly proved to the satisfaction of the police that he was ninety
versts distant shortly after six o'clock on the morning of the
murder, at Kamenskoi Zavod with the director, and was set at
liberty. Years passed over ; the murder was often the theme of conver
sation in Ekaterineburg, but all hopes of penetrating the mystery
with which it was invested were given up. At this time the
quantity of gold stolen from the mines and sent into Tartary and
Bokhara had become so enormous, that the Russian government
determined to discover how it was effected. An officer of
gend' arme was despatched to Ekaterineburg, where he in due
time arrived disguised as a peasant. His passport was in order,
and so well was his object kept secret, that even the police and
other authorities believed him to be what he seemed. He soon

A RECEIVER OF STOLEN GOLD. 109
ingratiated himself among his class, living and drinking with
them at the habacks, and hearing all that passed, and gradually
acquired from his unsuspicious associates the knowledge of which
he was in search. He discovered that there were persons engaged
in these gold robberies far away from Ekaterineburg, througb
whom the precious metal was got out of the country. During his
stay among the peasants in this town and at the mines, he provided
himself with gold, and now changed the locality of his operations.
Without exciting any suspicion among his companions, he
departed for Omsk to dispose of his stolen treasure ; he was even
intrusted by some of his new friends with small parcels to sell
for them.
Shortly after his arrival in the capital of Western Siberia he
began to associate with the Tartars, and very cautiously intimated
that he had a little gold to dispose of. This was done in so
professional a manner that he was soon introduced to the great
gold dealer, whose influence was so great that the Tartars dared
not buy gold unless it had passed through his hands. This was
getting to the fountain-head. Several anxious days passed, when
early one morning a Tartar acquaintance called, and said the police
had been making inquiries about his visit to Omsk which might
lead to unpleasant consequences ; he therefore advised that the
gold should be disposed of without delay, and proposed to accom
pany him to the dealer. Nothing loth, he was ready with his
parcels in a few minutes. The Tartar told him to be under no
apprehension when he saw the buyer, as it was all right and safe.
On they went, and after a long walk his guide led him through a
yard into a large house, taking him at once into a room in which
stood a table with a multitude of papers. He then went out,
returning in a few minutes, saying that the gentleman would come
to them shortly. It was not long before a man came in with a
long Bokharian kalat on, tied round his waist with a shawl.
Taking his seat at the table, he asked the assumed peasant, in a very
rude manner, how muoh gold he had stolen, where he came from,
and a variety of other questions calculated to frighten him. All
these were answered in a very submissive tone. The gold was
then ordered to be produced, which was done, and the weight of
eaoh packet marked thereon. The Tartar was told to pour all the
gold into a scale; but to this the peasant objected. He was,
however, instantly informed by the dealer that it all belonged to

110 THE MURDERER DISCOVERED.
thieves, and that they must settle it among themselves. It was
found to weigh much less than the seller knew it to be, when he
quietly suggested that the scales might not be correct. The other
turned upon him with a scowl, crying out in an angry tone, "What,
thief ! thou art not content with robbing thy employers, but thou
wishest to cheat me. I shall soon hear of thee in the mines of
Siberia. What is the price ?" The man named the sum, and was
offered half. So small an amount he declined to take, intimating
that he would try some other dealer. This roused the rage of the
receiver : " I give thee,'' said he, " five minutes to consider whether
thou wilt take the money I offer, or be handed over to the police."
The assumed peasant now professed great penitence, and promised
that in all future dealings vrith his excellency he would never
offend again. After this he received his money, and a reprimand
enjoining him to be diligent in his calling. He was then
dismissed with an admonition to be discreet, or the mines of
Siberia awaited him. The Tartar also gave him advice as to his
future proceedings, as well as introduced him to others of the
fraternity. The following moming the scene was changed : a gend'arme
officer was seen driving through the streets of Omsk, followed by
two mounted Cossacks. He drove straight to the house of the
" Gorodnetohe," or ohief of the police, who received him with
great politeness, not recognising his visitor ; and when the Cos
sacks were called in to take him to prison, he appeared as if
struck dumb. The smaller agents were left to other hands to
secure, and many of the Tartars made their escape into the Kir
ghis Steppe.
The gend'arme, having accomplished his mission in Omsk, now
started for Ekaterineburg to complete what he had so well begun.
The first man arrested was the merchant who had been examined
and acquitted of Major's murder. He was again accused of this
crime, and two other men were shortly in safe custody on the same
charge. The wife of the first now revealed where the gold was
buried ; and on searching for it, they found the axe with which
the murder had been committed.
This man had long been engaged in gold-smuggling, associated
with those who stole it from the mines. For this purpose he re
quired good horses, and possessed one of extraordinary power and
speed. Immediately the gold had been secured after Major's

A MYSTERIOUS OCCURRENCE. Ill
murder, he mounted his horse, and in about four hours rode
ninety versts, presenting himself to the director at Kamenskoi.
The murder was now proved against all who had been engaged
in it; they were sentenced to "run the gauntlet" (that is, to
walk between the lines formed by a regiment of soldiers, consist
ing of 3000 meu, each man striking him with a rod), and died
immediately after the punishment. The bands of gold-stealers
were broken up ; some were sent to the mines of Siberia, and
the gend'arme returned to St. Petersburg to receive a reward for
his arduous and really dangerous labor.
I have another sad story to tell of a countryman, who also lost
his life in this region. Some years ago, a young engineer, a Mr.
Patrick, of Manchester, was engaged as a mechanical engineer in
- the iron-works of the Generals Sevelofsky. These works are on
the west side of the Oural, at a distance of three or four hundred
versts from Perm. He remained there several years, and was
highly respected by his employers They had gold mines also
on the eastern side of the Oural, which at that time were the
farthest north in the chain. Patrick's mechanical duties called
him to these mines in company with some other officers from the
Zavod. The time of their visit was rather late in the season for
this northerly region. When their duties were finished, it was
proposed by one of the officers that they should devote a day or
two to the chase, as there was plenty of game in the neighboring
mountains ; and Patrick, accompanied by his friend and a large
number of peasants, started in that direction. As their hunting-
ground was some fifteen or twenty versts from the mine, it was
arranged that they should remain the night, and continue their
sport on the following day. They arrived at the place early, and
commenced their sport, but were not very successful. Some
time after midday they dined in the forest, after which Patrick
proposed to try one of the mountains near them, and on his com
panion declining, he started alone. Several hours passed, and
nothing was heard of the absent hunter ; at length, a party of
peasants were sent to seek him. They retumed, stating that
they had used every effort to find him, but in vain. Some sug
gested the probability of his having fallen in with a herd of deer,
the pursuit of which had detained him.
Night passed over and morning dawned, still Patrick did not
appear. Another party were sent up into the mountain : they

112 THE ENGLISH WATCH.
shouted and fired their guns without any response. They had
gone over the ground in every direction, feeling quite sure that
if any accident had happened to him by a bear, his gun, parts
of his clothing, or his dog would have been found. The officer
who had accompanied him now stated that it was of no use seek
ing further, and ordered all to return to the mine. The next
day snow fell, and he made no other effort to find his friend, sat
isfying himself by reporting to his employers that Patrick had
ascended the mountain alone, where he had probably been killed
by a bear, adding that he had searched for him in every direction
without effect. Winter arrived, and nothing more was attempted ;
but before summer came, dark surmises were in circulation, and
suspicions arose that Patrick had met with foul play.
In consequence, the Sevelofskys ordered a most rigid search
to be made in the region where the event had happened, but this
also ended without any discovery ; not a trace of arms or clothing
could be met with. Suspicion now settled into conviction that
Patrick and his dog had been killed and buried, and his gun
concealed. Little more than three years passed over, when one
day a peasant went into a watchmaker's shop in Ekaterineburg
and offered a watch for sale. It proved to be an English one.
An officer who was standing in the shop examined it, and dis
covered Patrick's name on the inside. He instantly ordered the
man to be detained, and the latter was very shortly in the hands
of the police. When brought before the authorities, he was
questioned as to his possession of the watch, but no information
could be elicited from him. He was whipped and otherwise
punished, but nothing could be extorted, though there could
scarcely be a doubt that he was cognisant of Patrick's fate. He
was kept in prison some time, and afterward sent into Siberia.
Suspicion now pointed to the officer who had accompanied Patrick
to the hunt as the man who had planned, if not actually engaged
in his murder, and jealousy was supposed to be the cause.
While travelling in the North Oural I slept one night in a
peasant's cottage near Pavdinskoi, and found there a couple of
volumes on mechanics, with Patrick's name written by himself.
Having obtained these, I carried them with me to Ekaterineburg,
where I handed them to a friend ; I, however, do not anticipate
that they will lead to any elucidation of this terrible mystery.
Having related these tragical events, I will add one of a totally

A MODERN FALSTAFF. 113
different character, illustrating the career of another of my country
men. I must premise that the individual who will figure in it is
fond of a good dinner, which with him is a serious matter of
business. He is very stout ; indeed is well qualified to play the
hero of Gad's Hill without stuffing. It was his duty for many
years to visit the works and inspect the machinery at the different
Zavods belonging to the government in the Oural. Some of these
journeys were made in summer, when the temperature is usually
T ery hot, especially in the southern part of the chain. He was
always luxurious ; and his carriage had a compartment for pro
visions, wine, &c., which was sure to be well stocked. It was
also so arranged that it could be turned into a bed, over which
was placed what he called " a tufeck" — a leather bed filled with
soft hair. Whenever he travelled through the night, this was
prepared by his man with the greatest care.
About the middle of July, on one of the hottest days of sum
mer, my friend was travelling in the South Oural on his tour of
inspection. He had dined sumptuously at one of tne Zavods,
aud started onward in the evening to enjoy the cool Dreeze of the
night. But there are some nights which will not cool (I have
often found such), and this was one of them. His carriage had
been standing in the buming sun, and had become so thoroughly
heated that the inside was like an oven. When his servant made
his bed for the night, my friend found that it was impossible to
sleep in his clothing; he consequentiy undressed, and was covered
over with a sheet. In this way the night was passed pretty well ;
at last daylight appeared, and the sun shed his rays over the
mountain tops, leaving the deep valleys in shade. They had
now arrived at a station in the mountains, and the horses were
changed while he slept. The servant and the yemstchick, seeing
the master sleeping comfortably, saw no reason why they should
not drink tea. Into the house they went, and were soon enjoying
a quiet glass, forgetting both steeds and carriage. Whether it was
the snoring of the inmate which frightened the horses, or some
thing else, I cannot tell, but off they started, and rapidly got into
full speed.
The carriage began to bound over the rough road, tossing its
occupant from side to side ; this soon roused him, when, to his
horror, he discovered that he was alone, and at the mercy of four
horses abreast, tearing along like wild steeds of the Steppe for the

114 SINGULAR APPARITION.
first time yoked to a vehicle ! To jump out was impossible, so
he clutched the sides of the tarantass, trembling with fear. On
they went like furies till they reached a steep hill, which made
them gradually slacken their speed. He knew the road, and that
a still deeper descent awaited him on the other side of some three
or four versts in length. His fears, consequently, were so terrible
that he stood watching for the moment when he could leap out.
At last, observing that he was near the top, he could endure his
position no longer ; so out he sprang, fortunately without accident.
The sight of his strange figure frightened the horses, and on they
went again at full gallop. He declares that he thanked God for
his safety, and quietly sat down on a fallen tree to reflect on his
situation. Shoes or stockings he had none ; in short, only one
linen garment, and that somewhat scanty; and hewas in the
middle of a forest, surrounded by hosts of musquitoes humming
about him evidently ravenous for his blood. He had not sat long
in this plight, when he discovered a peasant woman on horseback
coming toward him. She had approached very near, when, sud
denly getting sight of the singular apparition on the fallen tree,
she pulled up hei horse and looked aghast. He addressed her in
a very tender tone, saying, " Matushka moi pady suda" (Come
here, my mother). She mustered courage to ask what he wanted.
" Your petticoat," was the reply. " I have but one ; take it, and
spare me !" she murmured almost inaudibly, dismounting and
handing him the garment. He lost no time in putting it on, and
then marched along the road. Shortly afterward his servant and
the driver came up at full gallop, and were much relieved when
they beheld him safe, but could scarcely maintain their gravity
at sight of his extraordinary costume. The horses continued their
furious pace to the station, whence two men were instantly sent
back with the carriage, and in about an hour my friend was
enabled to resume his proper habiliments.

HOLY LAKE. 115
CHAPTER IX.
ADVENTURES AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
After leaving Alexandroffsky a few versts, the road crossed a
range of wooded hills and ran along the side of a beautiful valley,
in whioh a lake of no great size lay calmly in the bottom, with
clumps of birch and aspen growing on the shores. The ground
in many places was covered with cloubniha, or wild strawberries,
of a large size and delicious flavor, which might be gathered in
enormous quantities. On advancing farther the country became
less wooded, with wide grassy plains stretching away between the
mountains, which now appeared more rooky, pointed, and pic
turesque. At length, after crossing some hills, we reached a
broad, undulating valley of rich pasture-land, where in some
parts fields of rye were growing ; to the northwest rose up the
rocky crest of the Oural-tou, blue and misty, the lower mountains
strongly defined in deep purple ; at their feet lay a brown sloping
steppe. Aoush-kool, Ah-oosh, or Holy Lake, is about twelve versts dis
tant from a gold mine, near the foot of the Ilman-tou, where I
had taken up my abode ; the track leading to it was along the
valley for a few versts, to a point where some low hills close it to
the west. Here I found another gold mine in a small ravine
running up into the mountains. After crossing the low hills at
the head of the valley and descending a short distance, we beheld
the Holy Lake spread out in another valley, opening into a very
extensive plain, which stretches far away to the southwest toward
Ui-tash. This plain was almost destitute of wood ; in some parts
a few bushes were growing amid most luxuriant pastures, to which
the Bashkirs would return at the end of summer, with their herds
of horses.
This Holy Lake of the Bashkirs is beautifully situated, and of
an elliptical form ; the length is about seven or eight versts, and
it is probably four versts broad. On its northwest side rises a
conical hill to the height of 800 feet above the level of the water,
named Aoush-tou, or Holy Mount ; near the foot of this, to the
northeast, stands a Bashkir village, their winter dwellings — in

116 BASHKIR TOMB.
other words, a heap of log huts. These are about twelve feet
square, and eight feet high, the roofs fiat, and covered with earth
and turf. They have a doorway three feet wide and four feet six
inches high; a small opening to admit light, about twelve inches
square, with a hole in the roof for the escape of smoke : such is
a Bashkir's winter home. A fire is made on the ground in the
middle of the room, the smoke soon rendering the interior black
as coal ; round the room are benches close to the logs, and
on these they sleep. It is no uncommon thing to find six or
eight people packed away in these little dens, surrounded with
filth and covered with vermin.
At a short distance from the back of this village a thick belt
of timber extends far up the mountain, consisting of birch-trees
and mountain ash, some of large size. On ascending, we passed
through this wood, and found in many places large masses of
beautiful serpentine and porphyry jutting out, which compelled
us to seek another track. A walk of an hour brought us to the
summit. Here rest three Bashkir chiefs, each covered up in a
pile of stones that forms his tomb.
Here they sleep in peace, mountain flowers blooming and fresh
breezes wafting the sweet perfumes around. Their ashes will
neither be scattered to the winds nor removed to make room for
the dwellings of other races. Could their spirits visit this spot,
they would look down on those beautiful plains over which, almost
from their childhood, they freely gallopped, but would see that
their descendants have degenerated. Half-civilization is gene
rally worse than what is usually termed barbarism. The Bashkir,
in his genuine state, wild as his steed, possesses the feelings of a
gentleman. To be sure, he may have a slight tendency to plunder,
but he does it openly, and meets his victim in fair fight, while the
semi-civilized Bashkir will skulk and cut your throat, if you allow
him a chance. He has all the evil of both races, without a
particle of the good of either.
The view from the summit is very fine ; it takes in the Oural-
tou, Ilman-tou, and the Ui-tash, with their intervening plains, on
some of which people are seen rooting_out gold, which is found on
all the little streams in this region. On the south, toward the
lake, this mount is the most abrapt ; there are some parts on this
side which would be extremely difficult to climb, where the por
phyry is broken into cliffs. To the northwest it is also very steep,

GOLD MINES AT BAL BOUCH. 117
descending in parts abruptly into the valley ; there I found another
small lake extending along the valley toward Ilman-tou. I made
sketches from three different points of the Holy Lake, and of other
places on the plain.
Now for another gallop over these Bashkir plains, on which
there is neither tree nor shed under which to take shelter, though
a thunder-storm is growling in the distance, and a three hours'
hard ride is in prospect. The Oural-tou is shrouded rn deep black
clouds, rolling on in great commotion, against which the stony
crest of the Ui-tash stands out in its light tint. Soon the storm
will be here ; it comes on like a race-horse, rushing straight toward
us. Hark 1 here comes the blast, twisting the reeds and grass,
and laying them flat ; on it speeds with great fury, almost tearing
np the bushes. Now the flash makes our horses start, throw out
their fore legs, and tremble as they see the electric stream strike
the ground a few hundred feet before us, tinging all around with
red; then the crashing thunder echoes from every hill, and rolls
off into the distant mountains. There is enough in all this to
exoite most men into a gallop ; but when the rain comes streaming
down, it urges us on furiously, and nothing is thought of but to
reach the shelter of some friendly roof. This we found at Bal-
bouch gold mine, where the kind-hearted director treated us most
hospitably. The gold mines at Bal-bouch extended over a large space ; they
are not the property of the crown, but belong to a family in St
Petersburg, and are under the direction of a very superior man
The gold-washing machines have been constructed from his own
plans, under his own direction, and are decidedly the best I have
seen in the Oural. Everything is conducted here with the greatest
regularity and most perfect order, producing a considerable profit
to the proprietor, notwithstanding that the gold deposit is found
deep below the surface. To obtain it, all the upper strata have
to be removed ; in some instances these consist of earth and stones
from twenty-five to thirty feet thick, adding greatly to the cost of
working. This superincumbent mass tells us of the ages that have
rolled on since the gold was washed down from the mountains and
deposited in these valleys. Here they never seek the precious ore
in its original rock in the mountains; many even doubt its ever
being found in any of the upper strata at preseut exposed to view
in this region.

118 A NEST OF SERPENTS.
I made an excursion with the director of the works to the Kara-
ghi-kool, a picturesque lake in the Ehren-dick Mountains ; ou our
way we had to ride over several ridges. When on the first range
of hills, he said, " It is from these rocks, which once were muoh
higher, that the gold has been washed into the valleys ; in every
little ravine we find the ore; but beyond this ridge, in the upper
ravines, we find no gold : a proof that it has never existed in the
higher chain."
While at the Kara-ghi-kool, quietly preparing my sketching
traps, my eye caught sight of something in motion close to my
side, on a piece of rock most conveniently elevated for my Seat,
and, looking more intently, I beheld a large serpent just lifting his
head out of his coil. Starting back a few steps to get my whip,
he began to hiss, was uncoiled in a moment, and, bending his
long body into curves, showed a disposition to strike, when my
short and heavy lash fell upon him and changed his intentions.
He now tried to escape, and got into a deep cavity before I could
repeat the blow. In this den there were others, as I judged by
the sounds which greeted my ears : no doubt a nest had been dis
turbed. After this I changed my position, and finished my sketch
without molestation. On mentioning this circumstance to the
director, he told me that serpents were numerous in this locality,
and some of them venomous.
From many points of view near Bal-bouch the prospect was
exceedingly fine, and 1 made several sketches; some of the gold-
washings, others of the country around. These mines are on a
beautiful undulating plain, running far up between the mountains.
On one side rises Ui-tash, with its picturesque peaks ; farther to
the north are the Ehren-dick Mountains, with many conical hills
rising from the plain ; there are also several small lakes, giving
great variety to the scenery. This has made a lasting impression
on my mind, particularly by its romantic mountains and beautiful
plains, covered with rich pastures, in which were growing a great
variety of flowers, many quite new to me, affording employment
for both artist and botanist. For the sportsman there was muoh
amusement on these plains, snipes and double snipes existing in
swarms ; woodcocks were very numerous in the woods, with plenty
of wild duck on every lake. On some of the mountains the wild
goats feed in large herds, and deer are found on the lower hills
in abundance. Although my great object was in sketching the

ILTABANAFFSKY GOLD MINE. 119
scenery, m,y gun was not always idle. I could have spent a few
months in this region most agreeably ; but mine was a wander
ing life, and, like a certain legendary celebrity, on I was obliged
to go.
During a very hot day, at about two o'clock in the afternoon,
our horses' heads were turned toward the south. We crossed the
plain, and, after riding about two hours, passed through a narrow
valley in the Kuma-tash, coming out upon the old frontier of the
Kirghis Steppe. We followed the old Cossask road for a short
distance, then turned into the steppe. On our right rose up
Kuma-tash, rugged in many parts, and its summit crowned with
bare rocks. This region is quite destitute of timber. In some
of the ravines there are a few small birches and other bushes,
but the ground was covered with wild strawberries. After travel
ling about fifteen versts, we turned to the west, up a small valley,
and soon reached Iltabanaffsky gold mine. Here, as usual, though
completely a stranger, I received a most hospitable welcome from
the director and his family ; they were preparing for a festival
(his daughter's name's-day), and several of their friends had
already arrived.
This gold mine is situated on a small ravine at the foot of some
hills, which rise to a considerable elevation on the north, and is
worked at a great cost, on account of the depth at which the gold-
sand is found, and because the washing-machines are turned by
horses, as no water-power can be obtained here. Farther up in
the valley another small mine has just been opened, and it is
expected will turn out valuable. Immediately around Iltaba
naffsky there is no particularly fine scenery; but the director
informed me that there are some large caverns in one of the
mountains, about fifteen versts distant, and proposed to make up
a party to go there. In the mean time we were to visit a lake
about ten versts distant in another direction, which would afford
me an opportunity of seeing the country. On the shore of this
lake he had a farm, where his horses and cattle were kept in
winter. I found here a good view, with bold jasper rocks rising
from the water on one side, and larch, birch, poplar, and aspen
growing above. Farther down, a narrow ledge of rocks, elevated
a few feet above the wateB, ran quite across the lake, the top
being well wooded ; beyond these rocks the lakes extended several
versts.

120 A MORASS.
The following moming I rode along the plain for some distance,
and then turned up one of the ravines to the northward. Having
crossed several ridges, I stopped on the summit of the last, and
had a fine view of the Oural-tou, Ui-tash, and Ehren-dick Moun
tains ; Iremel I could not see. At length I reached the marshy
valley, in the bottom of which lay a small lake. I rode to the
head of it, but with great difficulty, and then beheld the summit
of Iremel above the other ridges. There was nothing particularly
Striking or interesting in this view : it was not worth one hour's
ride, yet I had been six hours on the road, and a sixth part of
that time straggling through a morass, often up to the saddle-
flaps. I found a dry green mound at the head of the lake, where
the horses were let loose to feed, while I and my guide refreshed
ourselves from the contents of a small bag which had been packed
for my use.
My man proposed that we should return by another route, as
be said, to avoid the morass. After riding in this direction about
an hour, we were congratulating ourselves on having escaped the
swampy ground which might swallow us up, when, having crossed
one high ridge and descended into a valley, to our surprise we
found ourselves caught, in spite of all our precautions ; before we
had proceeded many steps, our horses sunk so deep that we had
great difficulty in getting out. This compelled us to ride along
the side of the mountain for a long distance, and then make an
other trial. At last we crossed, but only to get into a difficulty
worse than the last. At length, after floundering about for some
time, we extricated ourselves, unfortunately, on the wrong side ;
nor could we get over to the other, therefore were again compelled
to take to the ridge. We rode along till we came to the very
point whence we had descended to the lake. From this to the
lake was one hour's ride, and we had been more than three retum
ing. It was now near five o'clock, and we had still a five hours'
ride before us ; there was, however, one great advantage : we
knew the track, and could retrace our footsteps ; therefore, though
both wet and weary, we rode on, crossing ridge after ridge, until
at last we reached the plain, with good solid ground, when our
horses pricked up their ears, and carried us at a canter into Ilta-

A bright sunny moming induced my host to prepare for our
trip to the cavcms. We dined at the gold mine at twelve o'clock,

IMAGINARY CAVERNS. 121
and started immediately after. Our party consisted of two daugh
ters of my host, three ladies from Maias, and six of my own sex,
nearly all delighted with the idea of sleeping a night on the
mountain. We travelled in telagas to within half a verst of the
precipices in which the caverns were situated ; beyond this we
must go on foot. The road was rough, but that has little effect
on these Siberian vehicles, which are made without either nail or
bolt. Indeed, there is not one scrap of iron about them, they
being put together with wooden pins and withes : this permits
them to twist about in every way, and to suit any road, rough or
smooth, but not the traveller, who is almost shaken to pieces by
the jolting. In about two hours we reached the place where we
had to quit these machines and ascend ; this, however, was not
difficult. A walk of half an hour brought us to the foot of a
very high precipice of granite rocks, which at once dispelled my
illusion about the much-talked-of caverns. I had anticipated
being able to penetrate almost to the centre of the mountain, and
pry into Nature's secrets. Large apertures had also been de
scribed, looking like portals opening into some mighty subterra^
nean hall. We found the balagans^ prepared, and placed with
their fronts looking down into the valley. A fire was burning
brightly; the tea-traps and other things were spread on the
ground, giving the place the appearance of a most luxurious
encampmene; but the rocky chambers had more charms for me
at this moment.
The cliffs rose up nearly perpendicular for two hundred and
fifty or three hundred feet, and then set back a little, forming a
terrace : here were the supposed caverns. From this point the
rocks rose again several hundred feet higher. I began to ascend,
and three of my companions followed; after climbing fromledge
to ledge, we got within about forty feet of the terrace, whence it
was almost a perpendicular wall. We sat down for a few minutes
to rest, when two of my friends, having looked up at the rocks,
turned back. This did not deter me. I began to climb with the
aid of bushes and crevices, and mounted, followed by my only
companion. After two or three attempts, we succeeded in reach
ing the top, when the discovery was made that the supposed
caverns were only inconsiderable recesses in the rocks. When
seen from a distance they looked dark and deep : thus many peo
ple had been deceived. From this place we had a fine view of the

122 WILD GOAT.
Oural chain, with the valleys, and several small lakes between the
mountains. Having climbed so far, I determined to go to the
summit; my companion followed a short distance, when we found
a place very easy to descend ; higher he would not go ; I left
him to find his way down, and scrambled upward among huge
masses of rock tumbled about in great confusion. When near
the summit I was startled by hearing something rash from be
neath some large fallen blocks, and the next moment a fine wild
goat went bounding from rock to rock, I gave a shrill whistle,
at which he stood for a minute to gaze at me, and then bounded
on again; fortunately for him, my rifle was below, or this had
been his last leap. When I gained the summit I was rewarded
by a most splendid view over the steppe as far as the eye could
reach. I beheld many lakes, some very large, with low hills
stretching away to the south. After sitting a short time I began
to retrace my steps, descending very rapidly, when I came upon
a track made by the goats ; this guided me down, and I was soon
at the bottom of the precipice, at only a few hundred paces from
our encampment. In the society of my friends, while enjoying
the refreshment that had been provided, I soon forgot the fatigue
I had experienced during my adventurous scramble.
The sun was now sinking fast, all the valleys had been deprived
of his rays, and white vapors were rising up and covering the lower
hills. As the shades of evening began to draw around us, the
desire for a night's lodging at the foot of these rocks began to
evaporate. This was not alone the case with the ladies ; the gen
tlemen seemed quite as little to relish the situation — indeed, were
evidently anxious to beat a retreat. The musquitoes had found
us, and commenced their attacks in swarms, keeping every one
occupied in brushing them off. To eat under such circumstances
was no easy matter, without peppering our food with these insects
every time it was raised to the mouth. This was not to be en
dured. We therefore made small fires all around our encampment,
and threw on them long grass, which made a great smoke, and .
drove the hungry tribe to the other side of our intrenchments.
At about ten o'clock, however, it was decided to abandon the
works to our enemies and descend to the telagas, though these, as
it was now quite dark, it was no easy matter to find. Anything,
however, was considered better than being either eaten up by mus
quitoes or poisoned with smoke. So we started, but shortly found

AN ACCIDENT. 123
it very difficult to proceed, as we were constantly stumbling about
among the fallen rocks and getting separated. I had the care of
a stout lady, who held on like a leech, and we had several tumbles,
fortunately without any serious consequences. At one moment
there was a shriek and a tumble in one direction, then the same
in another; some were calling out, " This is the way," and others
shouting, " The telagas are down here !" In fact, ours was not a
retreat ; it was a regular rout, and the squadrons we were flying
from pursued us with the utmost ferocity.
After walking more than an hour, by whioh time we ought to
have reached the telagas, they were not to be seen. We had now
got into long grass, where I was joined by another lady, who had
lost her guardian. This long grass convinced me we had been
going in the wrong direction. While standing still for a few
minutes we could hear shouts on both sides, but on one side they
came from a distance, and were evidently from our drivers. I
hallooed to our friends to retum, and then went off toward the
sound, which at first was very feeble ; however, after proceeding
for some time in one direction, it became more distinct, though
still a long way off. Presently the shouting proved that we were
all moving toward the same point, and gradually drawing together.
At length we disoovered the horses at a short distance before us,
and several of our friends already in the telagas ; three, however,
were missing. We could hear shouts in answer to ours, a'nd in a
short time two came up. Only one was now absent : we all hal
looed, but obtained no answer. We waited some time, then three
men started back in search. In about half an hour they received
an answer to their call, though from a great distance ; on they
went in that direction, and soon came up with our friend, who
was sitting down. It appeared that he had fallen, and been pre
cipitated into a deep place, where he lay, completely stupefied and
unconscious ; fortunately, he stumbled down a grassy steep, with
long grass at the bottom, otherwise he would have been much hurt.
Day was now beginning to dawn, whioh enabled us to ascertain
our position and see our way ; the telagas were put in motion,
ahd, following the track of our friends, we soon reached them.
The gentleman who had met with the acoident was made as com
fortable as possible, but he had evidently been very muoh shaken
by his fall. A little before four o'clock we reached the gold mine,
when the doctor was called in, and his patient at once put to bed.

124 KIRGHIS DRIVER.
My next move was toward Iremel, calling on our way at Preo-
brajenskoi gold mine. The road to it is over a most uninterest
ing country. Late in the evening we reached the mine. It is
small, and, I believe, produces very little ; indeed, everything
about it indicates that even gold can be bought too dear. We
passed the night here, and retumed to Iltabanaffsky the next
morning by another route, which made the distance about fifty
versts. I wished to start early next morning, but this they would
not permit until we had again enjoyed their hospitality. I left in
a light carriage, dravra by five horses ; three, yoked to the vehicle,
were driven by a Kirghis, and one of the two leaders was ridden
by a boy of eighteen. My route was across the steppe — a fine
flat country, and it was soon quite evident our Kirghis coachman
intended showing how his cattle would go; our speed for the
first two or three versts was a sharp trot, after this the horses
were put into a gallop, and then driven at full speed. The whip
was not once used, the whole being effected by the driver talking
to his horses, they apparently understanding every word. At
times he used a shrill call, when the animals would bend to their
work like greyhounds; and by speaking to them in another tone,
he would bring them up into a canter. In about an hour the out
rider was quite done up ; the Kirghis stopped after a few minutes,
ordered the man up behind, and then mounted his box again,
without any reins to the leaders, which rather startled me at flrst.
We were on a fine level country, orossing a steppe extending far
into Asia, without either fence or tree. The horses were put into
a trot for a short distance. I now noticed our Jehu regulate the
reins of his three horses, seat himself firmly on the box and give
a whoop, when we went off at a fearful speed. It was a splendid
sight. Our Kirghis was in ecstasies, talking to his horses as if
they were human iieings. The man looked round to see what
effect this had upon us, and was delighted on noticing that we
enjoyed the race. From full speed a word brought these fiery
steeds into a trot ; after going at this pace for a sbort time, he
would put them upon their mettle, and continue talking till they
went along like race-horses ; again would stop — in fact, he did jiist
what he pleased with them ; and when we dashed up to the
Btation, the Cossacks were greatly astonished at not seeing a man
on one of the leaders. I have never seen horses in a circus under

SINGULAR LAKE. 125
better control ; but our position was widely different : the former
cannot get out of the ring, while we were on a steppe, and had
nothing to check them had they chosen to bolt. If I had required
a coachman I would have given this man any wages, not exclu
sively for his good driving, but for the care he took of his horses,
which are never touched with a whip. We parted from him with
regret; and, although years have passed since, I have never for
gotten the excitement of this ride over the steppe.
From this Cossack station to Maias it was about twenty-five
versts. What a change in both cattle and man 1 The flrst few
hundred yards showed the difference — the whip was constantly
going ; our Cossack Jehu used very irreverent language, calling
his horses " chort," and a few other elegant names, whioh I dare
not repeat, evidently, from the fullness with whioh he rolled them
off his tongue, intensely expressive. After the two hours' ride
with our Kirghis, this was really painful ; but there was no help
for it. Having passed through a pretty country, we arrived at
Maias just as the evening was drawing in, aand drove straight to
the director's house, to whieh both he and his amiable wife gave
us a most hearty welcome.
Maias is the centre of the gold region in the South Oural ; an
officer is specially appointed for this branch of mining, and resides
in the Zavod. There is a large edifice for all the offices for the
administration of the gold mines; buildings in which gold is
washed both in winter and summer ; warehouses and other struc
tures, with many good houses, which give this place an imposing
appearance. A lake, about ten versts long, runs up among the
hills, which has a picturesque effect when approaching the Zavod
from the south. The Ilman-tou rises close to the town, on the
east bank of the Maias River, and is in some parts very beautiful.
The Lake Chirtanish is a few versts from Maias, to the north
west ; the road leading to it is charming in many parts. It is
situated in a rocky valley, beautifully wooded. The director of
Maias accompanied me to this lake, which he said had some
peculiarities besides its picturesqueness. He has ascertained,
beyond doubt, that it is a lake above a lake ; the upper one is
eight or ten feet deep, the bottom of this is four or five feet thick,
and underneath is another muoh deeper. The director supposes
that this floating bottom of the upper lake has been formed by
vegetation, here very thick and matted, whioh has decayed, and

126 A SERVANT HIRED.
become like peat, thus, after a series of ages, forming the solid
mass now floating under the water.
Our next visit was to Ilmenskoi Lake, in a picturesque region
at the foot of the Ilmen hills. After sketching the scenery, I
had a ramble over the rocks, which are highly interesting to the
geologist and mineralogist. Some years ago the Duke of Leuch
tenberg, when visiting this region, ordered excavations to be made
in the rocks in search of zircon, and some fine crystals were
found. I also made a search among the dibris thrown out, and
found several crystals, but none were pure and transparent. These
rocks had to be blown asunder by gunpowder, when, no doubt,
many crystals were destroyed. The following stones are also found
in these mountains — beryl, tourmaline, garnet, topaz, and sodalite;
also fine masses of pure quartz. Specimens of all these stones
are cut into gems and ornaments in Ekaterineburg.
With Maias my journey in the South Oural finishes. I can
not depart from this region without thanking all my friends for
the kindness, hospitality, and assistance afforded me on my jour
ney. I met with but one exception, a pig-headed fellow from
Ekaterineburg, whom I found at a gold mine near Iremel, whose
ignorance was only equalled by his self-importance.

CHAPTER X.
BORDER LANDS OF ASIATIC RUSSIA.
By the advice of my friends in Ekaterineburg, I was feduced
to hire a servant. When this was first proposed I decidedly
objected. "You are starting on a journey of many thousand
versts," they said, "into a country thinly inhabited, into which
all the criminals from Russia are marching weekly, and you
scarcely speak a word of the language; accidents may happen on
such roads, and then you will be in the hands of people who can
not understand a word you say. Although you might defend
yourself against robbers, you could not against sickness ; if this
should seize you in a village far from any assistance, your journey
may be ended almost before you begin it." These, and many
other arguments used, it was impossible to resist ; so at last I con-

COAL. 127
sented. A young man was sent to me, about twenty-four years
old, who spoke German fluently ; a great advantage, as I, knowing
a little German, should be able to give him directions, whioh he
would translate into Russian. This youth had been brought up
in the University of Kazan, and was intended for the medical pro
fession. Unfortunately for himself, his studies had been neglected,
no warning from the professors having been attended to, and when
the examination came on he was " plucked." He was a natural
son of the highest medical officer in the Oural, and his disgrace
so enraged his father that he cast him off. The authorities most
cheerfully gave the necessary papers for his accompanying me,
and, having bade adieu to my friends, I stepped into the carriage,
and away gallopped the horses. After I had proceeded about three
versts, I found that the road ascended a high hill, which gave me
a view of the Oural chain both to the north and south, with the
town of Ekaterineburg lying in the valley.
In spite of every effort, a feeling of deep sadness crept over me
when I took my last look at the high crest forming the boundary
of Europe ; nor could I for a moment help thinking of the hun
dreds of chances against me on the long journey I had undertaken,
each one of which might make this really my last look on either
European rock or sky. But the die was cast ; I gave the word
" Forward !" and sat down ; the horses dashed off, and we were
gallopping onward into Asia. Wooded valleys and pine-clad hills
are passed on this road — the last elevation of this chain before
reaching the steppes of Asia — quite similar in their features to
the scenery all along the south of the Oural. After travelling
ninety-one versts, we arrived at Kamenskoi Zavod a little after
twelve o'clock, and drove to the house of the director. I entered
the gate of this gentleman, a perfect stranger to me, but in the
full conviction that I should be received as a friend ; nor was I
mistaken. A Cossack, who let me into the house, at once an
nounced my arrival. The director, who was in bed, got up
immediately, came to me, and gave me a most hearty welcome.
In an incredibly short time the customary beverage was brought
in, and during the tea-drinking I perceived other preparations
were being made. In a short time I was taken into the adjoining
room, and there I found supper laid out, and the lady waiting to
welcome the intruder to her table. All this is done with so much

128 RECEPTION AT KAMENSKOI ZAVOD.
good-will, without either ceremony or formality, that a man feels
at home at once.
In Kamenskoi Zavod very heavy guns have been made for
many years past, and some splendid pieces of ordnance have been
sent from here both to Cronstadt and the Crimea: the works are
on the River Kaman, and not far from the River Issetz. Having
expressed a wish to make some sketches, the director, when we
met at breakfast, ordered a boat to be got ready to take me down
the river in the afternoon, and a young officer was appointed to
attend me. We got into the carriage and drove over a flat country
covered with birch bushes, the plain extending a long distance.
My companion had recently returned from England, where he
had been sent to examine the coal mines, and was now engaged
in sinking shafts to obtain this useful mineral. We visited some
of the places where coal had been discovered ; the seams were
very thin, and not far below the surface, but he expected to find
them thicker and better lower down. After riding six or seven
versts, we came all at once upon the Issetz, running in a deep
gorge between limestone rocks, some three hundred feet below
us. The carriage was sent back with orders to meet us at another
point, and we descended the rocks to the river, where the boat
was waiting. We were soon floating very gently and very agree
ably down the stream, between high cliffs of limestone, and beheld
several exceedingly beautiful scenes. We passed what are called
" The Gates," a prodigious mass of limestone, perforated with a
capacious opening.
Farther down we came to a very high cliff, with some caverns
near the summit ; three apertures are broken through from the
face of the rocks, and this bears the name of "Adam's Head."
After descending the river a few versts lower, we found the car
riage waiting, and drove back to the Zavod, much pleased with
what I had seen. In the evening all the officers and their fami
lies assembled at the house of the director : this occurs every
Sunday, and on many other holidays during the year. They
drink tea, play cards, eat bonbons, dried fruit, and toward eleven
o'clock sit down to a good supper. Thus they spend their time
very agreeably, to them, for a few hours, when they return to
their homes perfeotly satisfled and happy. These little friendly
reunions pleasantly while away the time, and often include men
of great inteUigence. Every one felt great interest in my pro-

DEPARTURE FROM KAMENSKOI ZAVOD. 129
gress through the regions I was about to enter. This is the last
mining Zavod before reaching the mining region of the Altai, a
journey of 2000 versts : to me, quitting it was like leaving a
friendly shore and plunging into an unknown sea.
On a splendid morning I commenced my artistic labors, and
spent the day most industriously, as my portfolio can prove. The
rocks on this river are very picturesque, the coloring most beauti
ful. The director insisted on sending for me to dinner, after
which a party was invited to drink tea in his garden on the Issetz,
several versts from his house. The next morning I was early on
the Issetz, and by one o'clock had finished a sketch of " Adam's
Head." This being the name's-day of the doctor of the Zavod, to have
neglected paying a visit and dining with him would have be*'n
considered an offence. Having spent some agreeable hours among
my friends, and received their parting blessing, I once more got
into my carriage and departed from Kamenskoi Zavod, but not
till I had been made to promise a visit of some days to these
amiable people on my return. It was exceedingly dark when we
left, and there is a very steep descent to a bridge which crosses
the Kamen ; but we got over it safely, and ascended the opposite
hill without difficulty. The yemstchick gave his horses a breath
ing, and then went off at full gallop. He had received orders
to drive quickly, and fulfilled them to the letter, for we travelled
to the station (nineteen versts) in fifty-five minutes. In a short
time fresh horses were yoked, and away we went again at full
speed. Though the night was still dark, either the horses or the
men knew the road well, as the former bounded on without acoi
dent. At first it was not a very agreeable sensation, being carried
along at such a speed through the gloom, ignorant of what obstar
cles might be in the way; the ringing of the bells, however,
would warn other passengers of our approach, and make them
draw quickly on one side. In some teams we had a bell fastened
to each horse ; with others, three bells were fastened to the bow
which passes over the shaft-horse. These keep up a most tre
mendous clangor; sometimes they have a most melancholy sound
when heard in the dark forests of Siberia. About midway on
this stage several men called to the driver to stop, saying they
wanted to beg ; he thought otherwise, and pushed on. It was
certainly a strange time to be on the road begging. We travelled
9

130 MONASTERY OP ST. DOLOMETE.
this stage (twenty-five versts) in one hour and a half In a
quarter of an hour we had fresh horses, and gallopped away.
About three o'clock the day began to dawn. I could now observe
that we were running along a level plateau, considerably above,
and at no great distance from the River Issetz, which I could
trace by a white misty line twisting about in the valley. About
half past three the sun rose in all his splendor ; he appeared as
when rising from the sea, for all to the east was one unbounded
plain, and that plain Siberia.
The valley of the Issetz is several versts broad, with a high
bank on each side; between them the river winds about in many
a turn, sometimes crossing the valley to one side, then sweeping
off to the other in a most tortuous course. In the spring, when
the snow is melting in the Oural, the whole of this valley is
under water. About an hour after the sun rose I beheld at a
considerable distance the domes and towers of the great Monastery
of St. Dolomete. Not having been apprised that such an estab
lishment was here to be met with, it was a great surprise, and I
watched our approach with much interest. In the distance the
different objects grouped well ; but I was not prepared to find
such an architectural composition so far away, as I had always
been led to suppose, from civilized life. It stands on a little
eminence on the left bank of the Issetz, near its junction with
the River Tetcha, which comes in from the south — in fact, has
its source in the South Oural. On approaching the town, the
walls which surround the monastery give the latter the effect of a
Kremlin ; and on coming closer, I found the same style of archi
tecture had been adopted, with towers at the angles, beautiful in
form and proportion. Near the eastern end of the enclosure
stands the great church, an elegant edifice : its outline is grand,
while the detail gives a fairy-like lightness to its parts, and ren
ders it one of those works which a man of great genius may
imagine, but rarely finds opportunity to realize. In fact, thia
monastery contains so much that is good, combining true archi
tectural feeling with fine effect, that it deserves to elevate the
designer far, very far above the crowd of professors of the pre
sent age. I might almost say that I envied him ; less, however,
for what he has done, than for the opportunity afforded him to
achieve distinction. Most sincerely did I offer up my humble
tribute of respect to his genius and memory.

POST-STATIONS. 131
Dolmatou was once a town of considerable importance; it has
fallen into decay, and is now only a village. While the somervar
was preparing, I strolled out to examine the monastery. Having
walked round the walls, I entered through the large portal, a
monk very kindly escorting me round. Could I have spared the
time, I should have found plenty of occupation for a day ; but to
delaj was impossible, and I left the old monk with regret. On
reaching the post-house the somervar was steaming ; I brewed
my tea, and sat down to breakfast. My friends at Ekaterineburg
and Kamenskoi had provisioned me for ten or twelve days, know
ing full well that every traveller who intends to eat on the road
in this country must carry his food with him. As this was the
first station in Siberia at which I had stopped for refreshment, I
began to contrast it with those on the European side of the Oural.
The smatrical, or officer appointed by the post-house authorities,
appeared in his full uniform, and was exceedingly attentive, and
the house at this post-station was perfectly clean. Even the
wooden walls and ceiling of the rooms had been scrubbed ; the
benches round the room and tables were white and without a
spot, and the floor equally so. The clothing of the inmates,
though both short and scanty, partook of the same character — a
marked contrast to the stations and people on the European road,
where I found squalid misery and filth in almost every post-
house. The horses were yoked, and the yemtschick seated on the
tarantass before I left the room. The moment I had taken my
seat the officer gave orders to drive fast; I raoved my cap to him,
and away we went with four horses abreast. I found the Siberian
horses and drivers as superior to the European as were the sta
tions. Our road was still along the high bank of the Issetz, and
when clear of the town the yemtschick shook his whip, gave a
shrill whoop, and S,way went his team at full gallop. The road
was good and slightly on the descent ; his horses not large, but
sturdy, well-fed little animals, with long fiowing manes and tails :
they snorted, tossed up their heads, and bounded along at a great
speed. The morning breeze was fresh and invigorating, and the
sun shone bfightly, making everything look charming, while in
the valley the haymakers were tossing the grass about and sing
ing gayly. The plain over whioh we travelled was well wooded,
but with many large tracts of country covered with rye and wheat.

132 QUICK driving.
that promised heavy crops. There are no fences to the fi^ds in
this country : every village has a ring-fence of posts and rails
round it, enclosing a large tract of land, often seven or eight versts
in diameter, with gates on the road, and a watchman stationed to
open and shut them. Within this ring-fence all the cattle of the
village are turned out to feed — there is not a peasant who has
not several cows and horses — while pigs, geese, ducks, and fowls
are also very numerous on these common pastures. Where cora
is grown each peasant has his plot, and cultivates as much as he
pleases. Near the corn-land feathered game is in great abundance,
which the peasants kill and trap in large quantities in winter.
Our fine little team was still gallopping along when the next
station was pointed out to me. Having approaohed within about
half a verst, the yemtschick gave a shrill cry, the horses bounded
off at a furious speed, and in a few minutes we dashed up to the
post-house like racers. The tinkling of our bells and rattling of
the wheels, however, had brought the men out, our steeds stopped,
and in a moment several hands were at work unyoking. My
papers were given to the officer, who read them, and ordered fresh
horses immediately. I now looked at my watch, and found we
had been one hour and twenty minutes driving from station to
station, a distance of twenty-two versts : again the lash had never
touched a single horse. This station was at a small village, beau
tifully situated on the bank of the Issetz, backed by fine woods
to the north. The valley of the Issetz here expands considerably,
and appeared covered with rich crops of grass, in many places cut
down, some already made into hay, and in other parts the hay
makers were spreading the new-mown grass : they were all actively
engaged, and the village almost deserted.
The wheels of the tarantass having been greased, the horses
harnessed, and the yemtschick on his seat, the words " Pashol
carashinka" were given by the officer, and away we trundled
through the village. At a short distahce beyond we left the bank
of the Issetz and'turned into the forest, still over i good road.
The sun had now become intensely hot ; the deep shade of the
trees was therefore very agreeable to both man and beast. Here
pine, larch, birch, and poplar were growing, some of the first of
very large size, and in many parts we found tljick bushy under-
wOod. After travelling through this forest about twenty versts
we once more came upon the bank of the Issetz, the river shining •

A LONG DRIVE. 133
brightly in the deep valley, while in front I could see the domes
and spires of Shadrinskoi some eight versts distant. The country
about here is very pretty, in many parts beautiful. As we drew
nearer the town had a very pleasing effect; the white churches
and other large buildings, with their green domes and gilded
crosses sparkling in the sun, contrasting agreeably against the
dark forests beyond. I had scaroely time to take in a general
view of the objects before we were rattling along the broad street
at a furious speed, having travelled this station, twenty-eight
versts and a half, in one hour and forty minutes. We stopped
at the post-house, where I saw a post marking 2591 versts from
St. Petersburg — a moderately long drive. I handed my papers
to the smatrical, and walked back a short distance to look at a
fine church and a large gastinoi-dvor, or market. Here are very
large warehouses, and several establishments for the conveyance
of merchandise. Russian brandy is made here, and much com
merce is carried on with other parts of Siberia. There are also
many large and fine houses, proving the wealth of sorae of the
inhabitants. Altogether it appears to be a town enjoying con
siderable prosperity.
I returned to the post-station in about twenty minutes; the
horses were ready, my papers were handed to me, and I took my
seat in the tarantass, when the whip and reins were shaken, and
we once more bounded along. At a short distance from Shadrinsk
we entered upon a beautiful country — fine pasture-lands, with
woods which appeared as if planted by man. We now left the
Issetz at some distance to the south, and continued our drive
through this woodland scenery. The next station was a mere
village, standing on this woodland plain ; here we again changed
horses. After driving a few versts we came to the bank of the
Issetz, pursued our route along the side of the valley about fifteen
versts, then turned into a forest which surrounds the station.
Here I drank tea, which I made dinner and supper, to lose as
little time as possible. Two meals a day are ample for travellers
in this region, and both should consist of tea, with meat or eggs.
Spirits are very bad either in hot or cold weather.
After leaving the post-house and crossing a small river, I found
that the road again turned toward the Issetz, running for some
distance close to the river, now a broad stream gliding smoothly

131 PARTY OF CONVICTS.
along between willowy banks and through rich pastures. About
the middle of the station we crossed the boundary between the
governments of Perm and Tobolsk, where I hoped to find greater
variety in the scenery; but night came on fast, rendering every
object indistinct and gloomy, during which we travelled over one
hundred and thirty versts, crossing the Issetz in the dusk, and
the Tobol just as day was breaking.
Leaving Iloutrovsky about twenty versts to the north, as the
morning advanced we were on the Steppes of Ischim, a very un
interesting tract of country lying between the rivers Tobol and
Ischim. There are many lakes in this district, and in some
places pine woods on the small sandy elevations, whioh can
scarcely be called hills ; in other parts good pasturage is found
for the cattle.
About two o'clock this morning we came up to a large party of
convicts marching into Eastern Siberia : these unfortunates have a
long joumey before them. There were ninety-seven in the gang;
seventeen men and three women in chains led the van, destined
for Nertchinsk, and have yet to march more than four thousand
versts. It will take eight months before they reach their place
of banishment : they were a most desperate-looking set. The
others followed in pairs, on their way to the government of
Irkoutsk : they have a journey of three thousaud versts to go,
and theirs will be a march of six months. Behind them followed
telagas with baggage, and there were eleven women riding : some
of these poor creatures were following their husbands into exile.
In front and on each side were mounted Cossacks, who kept a
strict guard over their prisoners.
Barracks are built at eaeh station, usually outside the village.
The front buildings are occupied by the officers, guards, and other
persons employed : from eaoh end extends a high stockade to the •
distance of about forty to fifty feet, which returns at right angles,
and extends about sixty feet; it is then carried along the back,
and thus encloses an area of two hundred feet by sixty; in the
middle of this space are the buildings for the prisoners. The
stockade is formed of trunks of trees twelve inches in diameter,
standing fifteen feet above the ground, and cut to a sharp point on
the top; placed close together, they form a barrier which the
prisoners cannot scale. Besides this, they are well guarded. They
march two days and rest one ; the distance varies : on some days

EXTORTION. 135
they make twenty versts, on others twenty-five, and a few stations
twenty-eight. A gang leaves Ekaterineburg every Monday morn
ing. That there are among these convicts many dreadfully bad
men no one can doubt, but there are also not a few who have been
driven by crael treatment to rebel against their brutal masters,
some of whom use them worse than dogs. A word, or a blow in
return for the lashes they have endured, may have been the cause
of their exile. This is not mere speculation, for it has often
happened. Having gone over a most monotonous country for many stations,
we arrived at Bezroukova : the road passes within about twelve
versts of Ischim, and then turns to the eastward. As we travelled
along I could see the church and some other large buildings
rising above the plain, which is named the Steppe of Ischim,
a continuation of the Kirghis Steppe. In some parts it is sandy
and sterile, with a number of salt-lakes extending far toward the
south. We were now only about one hundred and sixty versts
from Petropavlovsky, the great mart for Asiatic produce and Kir
ghis cattle : it is visited by several caravans froin Tashkend in
the summer to exchange such merchandise as they carry for Rus
sian produce. This town is on the present frontier of the Kirghis
Steppe, which is guarded by a line of forts and Cossack posts.
We now wended our way along sandy roads to the bank of the
River Ischim, which rans in a very deep bed, and crossed the
stream near Abatzkoi by a ferry. At Kroutoia we passed near a
large lake ; indeed, the whole of this country around has a par
ticularly aguish aspect, and is deemed very unhealthy. Forty
versts farther we passed through Toukalinsk, a small town con
taining many good houses. Some of the people are said to be
wealthy, which they ought to be if they do muoh business, for I
found it necessary to get some small change for silver ruble notes,
and was obliged to pay twenty per cent, to procure it. At the
post-stations you can seldom induce the yemtschicks to give such
money, and, to avoid being imposed upon, it is absolutely neces
sary to carry a bag of small silver coin.
After leaving Toukalinsk and reaching Beokichevo station, we
turaed to the north-east, toward the valley of the Irtisoh. On
approaching this river the country improves, the sandy plain
having given place to good pastures amid woods of birch and
poplar. My first view of the Irtisch was from some high ground

136 ANCIENT TUMULI.
a little after daybreak, when I beheld the river winding its course
through the valley. Near this place are many large tumuli cover
ing up the ashes of ancient heroes who have passed over these
scenes ages ago. Whether these indicate battle-fields, or the
burial-places of a tribe or a nation, it is impossible to say. They
are almost invariably placed on high land near the great rivers,
and command views over the whole country.
About ten o'clock we reached the station " Tcheraoi Ozernaia,"
or black lake, and then crossed the broad valley of the Irtisch,
where the river runs at the foot of the high bank, which on the
eastern side at this point rises more than 100 feet above the
water. All these rivers have cut a broad and deep channel into
the great plains, in some places ten, twelve, and as much as fifteen
versts in width, leading to the belief that in former ages a mighty
fiood swept along, filling this valley from bank to bank. If so,
its sources are dried up, and in comparison it has now become a
very insignificant stream, although at this place more than three
times the width of the Thames at London. This broad valley is
covered with fine pastures, where hundreds of cattle feed near to
the villages on its banks. There are large wooded patches in
many parts ; and in May, June, and July, when the water comes
from the mountains, it spreads over the entire width, making these
clumps of trees appear like islands dotted over a lake. I have
crossed this river when it was ten versts broad.
We are now at Serebrenaia, safely across the Irtisch. The
station is clean and comfortable. From hence the route is along
the eastern bank of the Irtisch for a distance of ferty versts,
which afforded me several fine views of the twisting and winding
of the broad river as it flows on its course.
At Ponstink station the road leaves the river, turning to the
east. Here appears a plain, extending farther than the eye can
reach, apparently covered with timber. Just at nightfall we
passed two obelisks, marking the boundary of the governments
of Tobolsk and Tomsk.

A STORM. 137

CHAPTER XI.
APPROACH TO THE A-LTAI RANGE.
The sun set, leaving a stormy twilight, which ended in drizzling
rain ; later in the evening we had several heavy claps of thun
der; after this the rain poured down, and the night became very
dark. This checked our speed, and made the driver cautious, as
we frequently had deep morasses on the sides of the road. The
lightning continued to flash, lighting up the lakes near us, and
the thunder rolled till its echoes were lost in the plain. Even
a rainy night must terminate, and a little before daybreak the last
crash of thunder rolled heavily, the clouds gradually cleared off,
and I saw signs of a bright morning. So soon as the storm ceased
I slept, and only awoke when the horses stopped at Touroumova
station. It was not yet daylight, and I was detained some time
before the horses were yoked; this induced me to jump out and
hasten the proceedings. I perceived, before stepping into the
tarantass, that there was something the matter with my servant :
he looked unusually pale. At last he informed me that we had
three stations to travel over on which robberies were constantly
being committed, adding his opinion that it would be better to
wait at the station till daylight, as many convicts had escaped,
and were now in the woods. Two or three days before, he assured
me, they had robbed a carriage during daylight in a woody part
of the steppe, a few versts farther on. I called to the yemtschick
to stop, when the face of my man brightened up. I was certain,
by the tone of his voice, that he thought we were going back ;
but when he heard me order the head of the tarantass to be let
down, there was a very perceptible change in his aspect. I laid
hold of the spring on one side, and made him push at the other,
when down went the top ; the moment this was done, I called
out to the yemtschick, " Pashol carashinka" (Drive on fast), and
away he went. We were sitting with our heads high above the
carriage, whioh enabled me to keep a good look-out on all sides ;
I drew my pistols from the holsters, examined the caps, and laid
them on my lap, determined neither to be stopped nor robbed witb
impunity.

138 A POLTROON.
Before leaving Ekaterineburg, I had, at his own request, bought
my man a double-barrelled pistol, with eleven-inch rifle barrels —
a deadly weapon if well used. I now put fresh caps on the
nipples, and told him to take good aim at any rascal who should
attempt to stop us on his side ; I, however, discovered that he
had no nerve for any such encounter ; indeed, I believe at the
sight of a stray pedestrian he would have been ready to drop his
weapon, and gladly surrender the carriage and its contents to
secure his own safety. The yemtschick kept his horses at full
gallop all through the wood : this he thought the best course, as
it would be very difficult for robbers to stop us unless they could
strike down or shoot one of the horses as we passed, in which
case we should have to flght for it. We emerged from the wood
without having seen either man or beast, and were on a large open
space on the steppe, where the yemtschick pulled up his horses
and drove slowly on. About a verst distant appeared another
thick wood, just before reaching which the man looked at me,
and then put his horses into a gallop, intimating the necessity of
keeping a sharp look-out ; but we again drove through without
molestation. We passed several other woods in the same manner,
and reached the station, having made the seventeen versts in one
hour and five minutes.
While fresh horses were being harnessed, many questions were
asked of the yemtschick and my servant, and an opinion confi
dently expressed that, as we had not seen the robbers on the last
station, we should be sure to find them on this; however, fortu
nately both for them and for us, we did not meet. Before we had
gone half the station it was daylight. The two next villages were
muoh dreaded, being convict colonies. Now that we oould see, I
found that this was a wretched country, having a great deal of
brushwood and swamp. The very air I breathed appeared to taste
of ague, which made me determine to drink tea at the station, if
hot water could be got, notwithstanding the bad character of the
people. In due time we reached the village, and fortunately
found a somervar, but in a most miserable place. A sickly squalor
was stamped on all the inmates, and the furniture as well as the
room appeared masses of filth. From this station there were two
stages more to Kiansk, the road still over a swampy country,
which might very properly be called the place of Torment, as

KIANSK. — EXTORTION PUNISHED. 139
these morasses breed millions of musquitoes, apparently more
bloodthirsty than any I had before encountered.
Kiansk is a moderately large town, consisting mostly of wooden
houses, inhabited by many hundreds of Polish Jews, a race whose
nearer acquaintance I have no desire to cultivate. Instead of the
yemtschick driving to the post-station, he took me straight to the
house of the man who had the contract with the post-office autho
rities to supply horses. He too was a Jew, and strove to delay
me by asserting that he had no horses ; subsequently he offered
to provide them if I would pay double price; had I consented, I
should have been subjected to the same extortion at every station
beyond, as the fellow would have sent forward to inform his gang.
I proceeded to the police-master, who, the moment I had stated
my case, called in one of his people, and gave some orders which
I did not understand; then told my servant, who acted as inter
preter, to say that the matter would soon be settled, and desired
me to remain. In a few minutes I observed two mounted Cos
sacks ride out of the gate, and in a very short time return, bring
ing the culprit with them. The police-master ordered him to
give me horses immediately. The fellow swore " Te Bhoga!"
(by God) he had none, and unless I would pay double his friend
would not give them. No further argument with him was at-
tempted : the police-master gave orders to the Cossacks ; the
Jew was hustled into an adjoining room, and two other Cossacks
having joined them, he was laid on the floor, and stripped of his
clothing from the back downward. The birch was just going to
be applied, when he bellowed out that he would give the horses.
The police-master then declared that he should have twenty-five
blows for causing the delay, but I begged that he should be set
free, when orders were given to release him. At this moment,
however, the Cossack raised his birch, and it fell on the target
beneath, the men let go their hold, and the old sinner sprang to
bis feet with a frightful howl.
In less than twenty minutes the tarantass was at the door. I
drank a glass of tea with the police-master, thanked him for his
kindness, stepped into the vehicle, and away we went at full gal
lop. The fellow who supplied the horses had given me six, four
yeked to the tarantass and two leaders. I was delighted to leave
this town, it being the worst in all Siberia. Whenever Prince
Gertohikoff, the General-Governor of Western Siberia, travelled

140 FINE WOODLAND COUNTRY.
this road, horses were always sent outside the town to meet him,
and with these he gallopped through, without stopping in this
nest of thieves.
After leaving Kiansk I travelled directly south, having deter
mined to visit the Lakes Sartian and Tchany, the remains of a
great inland sea; from Lake Tchany there are a series of lakes
extending to the southwest for nearly two hundred and fifty versts,
in some parts fifty or sixty versts broad. The country in this
direction was still swampy, occasionally rising into very slight
undulations, covered with long coarse grass, and frequently having
extensive clumps of birch-trees and aspens, or a thick underwood
of bushes. Such was the general aspect of the country between
Kiansk and the lakes, whioh last are so surrounded by a broad
belt of reeds that there were but few places where I could obtain
even a view of the water, when I observed wild-fowl by thou
sands. After passing the lakes the country improves, many parts
are thickly wooded, with extensive tracts of cultivated land be
tween the forests, on whioh fine crops of rye and wheat were just
beginning to take their yellow color. Large herds of cattle were
grazing in the pastures near the villages, and the people looked
healthy and comfortable ; their cottages were better built and
clean, and the women and children were no longer clothed in
rags. What a change a few hundred versts had made both in
the aspect of the country and the inhabitants 1
Proceeding onward, I found it somewhat difficult to believe that
this was a part of the Barabinsky Steppe ; there were gently-slop
ing hills crowned with large timber, encircling extensive plains,
whicfe appeared like the boundaries of some immense park ; and,
to aid the illusion, I saw several groups of wild deer bounding
over the glades. The plain was dotted over in parts with planta
tions of large timber, in other places belts of young trees stretched
along in the very places a landscape gardener would have selected
to give effect to the scene. Good Dame Nature has been the
decorator, and has made, by the judicious distribution of wood and
water, a fine woodland country out of a most dreary steppe. The
ground was covered with a great variety of flowers, among which
were geraniums, two varieties of delphinium — one a pale blue,
the other a beautiful deep blue — a while, and also a deep crimson
dianthus growing in large clumps, a deep red single peony, and
purple crocus, with many others unknown to me. White and

A DISAPPOINTMENT. 141
yellow nymphjea were growing in the lakes, along the shores of
whioh the road winds for several versts, affording many fine views.
I frequently amused myself by picturing a noble mansion on one
of these sites, the architectural features being simple and vast, in
keeping with the immense sweeping plains around. These day
dreams aided greatly in ridding me of the weariness brought on
by ten days' and nights' confinement in a tarantass. Indeed, so
worn out had I become, that I should have been glad of another
robber-excitement by way of a change. Game I often shot, having
marked down the broods of tetery which we disturbed in crossing
the steppe. They seldom flew far away ; I have often strolled
through the long grass into the very centre of the brood before
they moved — in fact, have trodden on them. In two instances I
got three birds with two shots; I trod upon one, and killed one
with each barrel ; with a dog any quantity may be shot here.
During the evening we reached the shores of a lake named
" Gorkoi Ozera," or bitter lake, having thousands of ducks and
divers swimming over its surface. Not far off stood a scathed and
shattered pine-tree, and on one of its bare branches a large eagle
was sitting; the tarantass was instantly stopped, and I tried to
get within rifle range, but before I could succeed he expanded his
wings and -soared majestically away. This was a great disap
pointment ; still, as I had seen one, I knew that there must be
others in this region. The people of the next station were very
anxious that I should remain all night, representing that my next
thirty-eight versts would be over a horrible road. To this, how
ever, I would not consent. They gave me seven horses and three
men, a certain sign of what was in store for me. Some long ropes
were placed beside the driver, and then we started. The first
three versts were aoross the enclosed pastures around the village,
over a hard and very good road. After passing the gate we
almost immediately entered a thick wood, and here the grouud
became swampy. Farther on bushes and reeds had been cut down
and laid across our path, by whioh at once our speed was brought
to a walk. I could see that the road had become wavy, like a
chain bridge. On each side of us were high reeds and fine bul-
.rushes, which showed me that we were crossing a deep morass.
We had gone over about a verst of this when we reached hard
ground agaib, but even now our progress was very slow in com
parison with what it had been. The night came on with heavy

142 A STAGNANT LAKE.
dark clouds rolling up from the horizon — a bad prospect ; still we
proceeded, and soon reached another bush and reeded path, across
another morass. Before driving on to this frail road, the driver
got down and went on some distance to examine it; on his return
he exclaimed, " Otohin khooda" (very bad), mounted his seat,
and drove gently on. The horses pressed the branches and reels
under water, and when the tarantass got upon them it sunk into
the water up to the axles. It was frightful to be thus dragged
along, but stop we dare not ; we must keep in motion or be stuck
fast. The flogging of the horses and shouting of the men added
to the horror of this stagnant lake, whioh on either side was
deep, although thick with reeds, affording no pleasant reflections.
At length we were again on hard ground, when the yemtschick
crossed himself, and pulled up to give his horses breathing-time.
During my anxiety, while crossing the morass, I had not noticed
that the rain was falling fast; it soon poured down and became
very dark. Our paoe was now a walk, the tarantass being jolted
from side to side frightfully, and I almost began to regret having
left the station, as the men could hardly see before them ; cer
tainly they oould not observe the bad holes in the road. Some
times we were actually brought to a stand-still. Hour after hour
passed in this way, and, as the yemtschick had informed me, we
had still the worst plaoe to cross. However, there is nothing
like patience on a bad road in a dark and rainy night. At length
I saw a narrow line of light on the horizon ; at first I thought it
was a fire very far off; as it extended, I observed to my great
satisfaction that it was day breaking, and the gray morning light
began gradually to creep over wood and steppe : I now ascertained
that we were on a perfectly flat country.
In about half an hour we came up to a very high bed of reeds,
within which lay our last difficulty on this station. Again we
stopped, and two men went forward to examine the place ; when
they returned they held a long council, and the man who had
driven the middle pair now mounted the leaders, and we went
slowly on. After going about one hundred paces, the leaders
began to flounder about very muoh ; still, we got on ; and on
standing up, I saw we were nearly through. A few paces farther,
and the tarantass stopped, nor could the horses, with all their
efforts, move it an inch ; indeed, they could not hold their feet in
the mud and reeds. The man on the middle horse dismounted,

ANOTHER SWAMP. 143
when I observed that he was far above his knees in water ; he
unloosed the traces ; the yemtschick threw him the long ropes,
one end of which he fastened to the carriage, and the other to
the traces of his own horses; when this was done he mounted,
and the four steeds went on, the ropes reaching to the hard
ground. The tarantass and wheelers had remained quite still ; har
ness was now looked to, ropes tied afresh, the men mounted, the
yemtschick gave a shout, the horses pulled, and we got on a few
yards. After resting a short time we got on another few yards,
and with a few more efforts hoped to be out of this frightful
place. At last, after more than an hour spent in the morass, we
stood on hard ground, and a little after five o'clock in the morning
reached the station, having been the whole night travelling thirty-
eight versts.
Again I had seven horses, this being also a bad station, but
only a short one of fifteen versts. Ropes were again required,
indicating a morass in prospect ; we should, however, have it iu
daylight; and thus be able to see our difficulties. The country
around was very flat; still we passed through some cultivated
land, on which the rye appeared almost ripe. After driving at a
slow trot for about an hour, we reached the swamp, where several
men and horses had been sent on before us. They were evidently
afraid that we should not get over this place, though it was not
more than flfty yards in width. After a long consultation, the
spare horses were sent to the opposite side. I watched them
pass ; for about thirty yards they proceeded well, then all at onoe
sunk deep in water. It was now our turn, and we drove very
gently along till the leaders got into deep water and mud. The
four horses were now loosed from the carriage, and several long
ropes secured to it, the ends of which these horses dragged over
to hard ground. The men then began to fasten the animals to
these cords, four abreast; this done, four other horses were har
nessed in front. After many consultations and directions given
by the driver, the men again mounted, the yemtschick gave his
usual shriek, and on they went. Our horses were in the deep
pool in a minute, then in plunged the carriage, the fore wheels
going under water : the shouting was now tremendous. Pre
sently our steeds were dragged to the sojid earth, then the wheels
touched it, and we were out in a minute. With fewer horses and

144 FIGHT WITH AN EAGLE.
men we should have stuck fast, and the tarantass would have
sunk down deep into the morass, when all my things must have
been spoiled. To my great relief, I was told that this was the
last bad plaoe on the whole road to Barnaoul. I rewarded and
thanked the men, and in half an hour reached the station.
We were now only twenty versts from Krontikha, on the Ob.
At this station we retumed to our usual team, as the road was
said to be good. Immediately on leaving the village the country
improved, swelling into rounded hills, and affording rich pastures
to large herds of horses and cattle which I saw grazing. We
were also approaching a thickly-wooded region, and should now
be travelling near or along the banks of the great Siberian river
Ob, whose source is among the mountains toward which we were
hastening. While commencing the ascent of a steep hill, I
observed a fine eagle perched on a tree, about two hundred paces
in our front. Determined to get a shot at him if possible, I made
the driver pull up his horses and walk them along. 1 then seized
my rifle, which unfortunately had got damp, and I feared useless;
at least I did not like to risk it ; only one barrel of my gun was
loaded, but with this I intended to try my luck. Getting out of
the tarantass on the opposite side to where the noble bird was
perched, I walked stealthily along under its shelter, telling the
man to go on slowly. When within about fifty yards, the eagle
raised his head and prepared to take flight. I stood still, the
head of the tarantass passed me, and I sent the contents of the
barrel after him as he soared off the branoh. Down he fell, but
was not dead, as he proved by springing upon his feet before I
could get near him. He could not fly, but made off at a good
speed by springing up with his feet, and by the aid of one wing,
the other being broken. After running about two hundred yards,
I in quick pursuit, he stopped, and tumed upon his back, with
his legs drawn up to strike. I now found it required much cau
tion to secure my prize, as his talons looked formidable, and I
knew them to be dangerous at close quarters. After looking at
him for two or three minutes, I tried to place the butt of my gun
on his legs. He strack out, driving his talons into the stock ;
simultaneously I caught his neck with my right hand, and while
he was holding fast to the butt of the gun with his claws, let the
barrel drop against my right arm, and seized his legs. The gun
was thrown down in the scuffie, and he struck with his wing fear-

APPROACH TO THE MINING REGIONS. 145
fully. At this moment my man came up, we got his wing secured
under my arm, and I carried off my prize. The yemtschick fast
ened his legs with a leathern thong, and then killed him ; when
we reached the station, his head, wings, and legs were cut off,
and I carried them along with me. He was a very large and
powerful bird.
From Krontikha we had a fine view looking down the valley
of the River Ob.
At this station the valley is twelve or fifteen versts wide from
one high bank to the other, between which the Ob winds along,
orossing and twining first toward one side and then to the other.
The river is divided into several streams, and forms islands, some
times very large, at other parts of the river small and numerous.
Standing on the elevated bank and looking down the valley, there
is a magnificent view. To the northeast, and about 150 versts
distant, is Kolyvan, formerly the chief town of the government,
which has been transferred to Tomsk, 150 versts farther in the
same direction. Looking either north or east, there appears one
level plain, densely covered with dark pine forests as far as the
eye can reach. When travelling across these regions, which look
vast interminable forests, large tracts of open country are found
in a very good state of cultivation.
Having crossed the Ob, our road was up the valley, among rich
pastures not long since under water. The yemtschick gallopped
over this flat country at a good speed, and I perceived that we
were approaching the mining regions by the quantity of charcoal
wagons we passed. In the evening we reached Sousounskoi Zavod,
copper smelting works belonging to the crown : here is also a
mint for coining copper money. I shall not attempt any descrip
tion of these works, my stay having been only long enough to par
take of the hospitality of the director. We travelled on through
the night, but not very fast, as at times it was exceedingly dark,
and the road difficult to find.
We were still travelling up the valley of the Ob, but eight or
ten versts from the river, and through a thick forest of dark pine.
Early in the morning I found myself at Pavlovsky Zavod — large
silver smelting works belonging to the Altai mines — but no ore is
found here. The director was exceedingly amiable, and induced
me to remain to luncheon. I then started, having only fifty
versts to Barnaoul. After leaving this Zavod I entered upon a
10

146 ARRIVAL AT BARNAOUL.
sandy country, with thick pine forests stretching out to the west ;
to the south there were small straggling woods, and the country
looked bare and barren. The road is carried along the high land
on the west side of the Ob, ten or twelve versts from the river,
in some parts even more, and there is nothing to vary the mono
tony of the scene.
The last station was passed, and we had reached some high
ground, whioh gave me a peep across the Ob to the south — the
direction in which lay the Altai — but no mountains were visible ;
nothing but black pine forest. At five o'clock we drove into Bar
naoul, tired and weary for want of rest during a joumey of twelve
days and nights. The chief of the mines had prepared rooms fur
me, and a Cossack led me to the house. My traps were soon
unloaded, and I prepared to take a night's rest that should recom
pense me for my journey of 4527 versts from St. Petersburg. I
am at last in Barnaoul, the chief town in the mining district of the
Altai. The " Gornie Pravlania," or Board for the Administra
tion of the Mines, is here, and all the officers connected with it
reside in the town. I slept nearly twelve hours, and wishing to
take advantage of every day, as the summer was gliding fast, at
ten o'clock called upon the chief of the mines, who received me
with great kindness. I handed my papers to him, when he stated
that he had received instructions concerning me from the minister
in St. Petersburg, and was ready to afford me every assistance I
could possibly require. He gave me most valuable information
about the region I was going to visit; also a marche route, by
which I could travel to many interesting places ; and invited me
to dine with him. He spoke a little English, which was exceed
ingly agreeable to me ; equally so was my introduction to his wife,
whom I found a most amiable woman. On my first acquaintance
with this gentleman and his family, it was quite clear to me that
civilization of a very high character had reached these regions,
united with great kindness and genuine hospitality. In the eve
ning I called upon the officer whose acquaintance I had made at
a station on the Oural, he having given me his address in Bar
naoul. I was quite delighted to see a face I had met so far away,
and he appeared equally pleased. He invited me to dine with him
the following day, when I passed two or three most pleasant hours
in company with two of his friends. Before I left I called upon
the director, who gave me letters to some of his officers at the

VIEW OF THE ALTAI MOUNTAINS. 14'l
mines in the Atlai ; he had also ordered a Cossack to accompany
me, who was well acquainted with the region to which I was
going. He went with me through the silver smelting works, and
to the furnaces in which the gold is smelted, but these were not
in operation.
Our direction was nearly south, over low hills, whioh extend
for some distance on that side of the town ; from the top of one
of these there is a beautiful view, looking over the Ob toward
Tomsk. We travelled over deep soft sand, very heavy for the
horses ; this continued for many versts till we reached other hills,
and then the road was good. The country in some parts was
prettily wooded with pines ; there were also many small valleys
or deep sandy ravines running down toward the Ob. During our
ride over the second station I perceived a change. We had left
the woods behind us, and the country was still undulating, but it
was evident that we were approaching the steppes extending
westward to the banks of the Irtisch. These were formerly in
habited by Kirghis, before they were driven back aoross the river,
and a line of forts built extending from Omsk along the Irtisoh
to the River Bouohtarma. These form the frontier to the Kir
ghis Steppe, whioh is guarded by Cossacks, the whole length of
the line, perhaps not less than 2500 versts, extending far up into
the Altai and along the Chinese frontier.
We passed over several stations, all equally monotonous —
dreary level plains stretching out in every direction, with trees
only along the watercourses. The country at a distance from the
river has a most sterile aspect, the principal product on most
parts being wormwood. About three o'clock on the second day
I first distinctly saw the Altai Mountains, very little elevated
above the plain, and watched the misty forms as we rolled on
with intense interest. After gallopping for about an hour, muoh
more of the chain was visible when looking across a small lake,
on the banks of which several birches were growing near the
dead trunks of two old willows, now shattered by the storms,
whioh often blow with great fury aoross these steppes.
Having sketched the above scene, I pushed on again, and each
ten versts brought other parts of the chain into view. I now
noticed a storm gathering over the mountains, which were shortly
completely obscured. We were near the post-house, at which I
proposed drinking tea, and, if the weather became bad, remaining

148 STOR.M AT A DISTANCE.
for the night, being anxious to see the Altai as we gradually
approached the chain. This was explained to the Cossack, who
objected to my stopping, the station being small and dirty. He
proposed to take me to a village some twenty versts nearer the
mountains, where I could stop and be more comfortable, and then
we should pass over a hilly country the next day. To this ar
rangement I consented ; and the horses having been yoked, we
left the road, and travelled aoross the steppe more to the eastward.
The land gradually rose toward the chain we were approaching.
In about an hour we saw that the storm was rolling on fast, cover
ing up everything with its black mass of vapor. Presently it
changed its course, and came directly toward us ; but no village
appeared near in whioh we could ask for shelter. The Cossack
urged the yemtschick to drive on, though it was evident that by
doing so we should only meet the storm the sooner, and get a
thorough drenching.
After riding a few versts farther, we looked down into a valley,
in whioh I discerned a moderately large river running, which they
said was the Tchurish. The storm was following the course of
this river, and was now not far from us. The thunder, whioh had
hitherto been growling in the distance, bellowed forth in magnifi
cent peals every two or three minutes, bringing the dark mass of
vapor nearer.
We had reached the edge of the valley, and beheld the village
five or six versts distant, just being obscured in the falling rain.
Not a drop had yet reached us, but we saw that our tum was
coming. After descending into the valley, we were going over
some very rough ground, when a terrific stream of lightning and
a tremendous crash of thunder burst over us ; at the same moment
the clouds divided, and rolled off in opposite directions. It was
like opening the curtains to some mighty and fearful scene as the
heavy dark masses were carried up and off at either side, leaving
a thin vapor between them hanging like a veil. The sun was
setting, casting a pale and red tinge on the vapory curtain, which
produced a wonderful effect. I stopped the carriage to watch
the changes, and observed the opening gradually extend into a
larger space, which became a deeper and deeper red as the
vapory curtain expanded more and more. The hills were now
dimly seen through it, much magnified, and resembling mountains

KOLYVAN LAKE. 149
glowing with fire; not bright, but more like red-hot metals losing
their white heat, and changing into a, dark red.
The vapor gradually rolled off and separated. At length a dull
' red tinge spread over all the under parts of the clouds, extending
high up into the heavens, giving the entire scene a supernatural
appearance. The sun was now sinking fast. Gradually the clouds
lost their colors, and in a short time all had passed away, leaving
me bewildered and fascinated by the grandeur and sublimity of
the fleeting vision This was a scene never to be forgotten.
Unfortunately, it was one my pencil could not paint or my pen
describe ; I only profess to be able to shadow it forth dimly.
Before we reached the village the dark gray of evening was
spread over the whole country, and all was calm and quiet.
This morning the sun was obscured by a thick fog, which soon
acted like a Scotch mist, wetting us completely. About nine
o'clock the weather cleared up, when I beheld the offshoots from
the Altai extended far into the plain. We were crossing these
hills to the westward, and came out upon the steppe. A few
versts farther we discerned Kolyvan Lake shining beneath some
dark mountains with broken and ragged tops. It had been men
tioned to me in Barnaoul as possessing some beautiful scenery.
On approaching nearer I observed many curious objects standing
on its shores, having the appearance of a rained city : masses of
rock, and pillars of various forms, standing quite isolated, backed
by picturesque mountains, give to the place a very singular effect.
This was merely a flying visit; nevertheless, I made a few
sketches, since whioh time I have become thoroughly aoquainted
with its scenes, and have explored on foot its rocky shores and
ravines. It is a most curious region ; the granite has assumed
most extraordinary forms ; in some parts it appears to have been
forced up in a soft or liquid state, and has flowed over and cooled,
after whioh it has been forced up again, thus forming thin beds
with rounded edges, exactly like liquefied metallic substances
after flowing a short distance and cooling.
About five versts from the lake stands the village of Saouoh-
kina; almost immediately after passing it the road begins to
ascend the granite mountains, whioh are very steep. This induced
me to walk up; so, quitting the road, I followed a track which led
to some high crags; on reaching the summit of these, they afforded
me a view over all the country I had passed through after leaving

150 PICTURESQUE ROCKS.
Barnaoul, and the steppe to the northwest, with its numerous
lakes. To the south still higher craggy masses rose, interrupting
the prospect in that direction. After going a little farther I
observed that this spur of the Altai, whioh I was crossing,
terminated in the plain about sixty versts distant. There are
some exceedingly picturesque rocks on these mountains — some
like ruined castles, with circular apertures perforating the huge
towers ; others have taken the form of human heads of a gigantic
size, beside which the Great Sphinx of Egypt would appear an
infant. The tarantass having come up, I sat down, and away we went
at a speed that would soon give me a peep at the other side of
these rocks. After riding about half an hour we descended into
a valley, on the opposite side of which were other hills of greater
elevation, and a little to the eastward of the road were some rocks
of a great height. I stopped the carriage and ascended to the
summit, whence I had a fine view, looking over the plains toward
the Irtisch, that separates Siberia from the Kirghis Steppe ; while
to the south and east rose up some of the higher offshoots of the
Altai chain, the mere sight of whioh made me doubly anxious to
begin my rambles among their rugged passes. At every half
verst there was evidence that we were approaching the silver
mines, by the charcoal wagons we passed on their way down into
the valley. We also met several hundred small wagons contain
ing silver ore going to Barnaoul. A little farther on we ascended
another hill, from which we saw at a short distance the smoke
from the smelting furnaces. They stand in the bottom of the val
ley, on the bank of a small river which falls into the Alei. We
passed near to the works, and ascended a steep hill into Zmeino-
gorsk, the richest silver mine in his imperial majesty's dominions.
We drove to the house of the director, who received me most
kindly, acknowledging that he had received instructions to afford
me every assistance on my journey into the Altai.
Although I had felt very unwell for the last two or three days,
I determined to shake off this indisposition and start on a journey
into the Altai, to visit a part of the chain considered highly inter
esting; but, after travelling about seventy versts, I was compelled
to return, glad to reach the hospitable dwelling of the director in
Zmeinogorsk, and he immediately called in the doctor. I was
carefully nursed — indeed, treated with the greatest consideration ;

RIVER OULA. 151
but, what with bleeding, physio, and starvation, a great change
was soon produced, and I was rendered thin enough for any
mountain journey. This illness was a great disappointment at
the time, and worried me muoh during my eight days' detention.
I was determined, however, sooner or later, to visit the region I
had thus been obliged to leave unexplored.

CHAPTER XII.
ASCENT OF THE ALTAI.

I LEFT the Zavod and proceeded to Oubinskoi, where I arrived
the following moming. From this point I began to ascend the
valley, which is closed in by rounded hills of no great elevation,
destitute of wood, giving it a sterile and monotonous aspect.
Having passed Oubinskoi, I found the River Ouba, a broad and
deep stream, with islands in several parts, most of them covered
with willows. It runs moderately fast, over a stony bottom, and
contains plenty of fish, the grayling being found here in great
abundance, and of excellent quality. Having decided to dine at
one of the villages, my Cossack sent two men to the river with a
net, and in about half an hour they returned, with from fifty to
sixty of these fish, varying from half a pound to a pound and a
half in weight.
Continuing our journey up the valley, on the right side were
seen the tops of the Oubinskoi Mountains, and in the extreme
distance the high summits of the Oulbinskoi chain. A few versts
beyond the village where we dined we left the valley of the Ouba,
crossed the mountains, and descended into the valley of the Oulba,
where I found the scenery much finer. It is wooded with birch,
poplars, and willows, among whioh the river rans, leaping over
rocks, and sparkling in the sun. Pine-clad hills extend along
each side of the valley, overtopped by rocky-crested mountains
rising from three to four thousand feet above it. This indicated
that we were approaching a more grand and picturesque region.
Our road was up the valley, at a short distance from the river,
sometimes through woods of pine and birch, affording frequent
views of the higher mountains, some of which I transferred to my

152 A THUNDERING STREAM.
sketch-book. At length, after travelling about fifteen versts, my
road passed along the bank of the river, in some parts on rooks
overhanging the stream, where it has been necessary to guard
against accident by placing strong wooden railings. Here the
rocks rise from the road to a great height, in rugged and pictu
resque masses. On the opposite side of the river is a thick wood
of pines and poplars ; farther up the valley it is thickly fringed
with weeping willows, birches, and small pines. Above these,
and in the distance, rises Ivanoffeky Belock, partly covered with
snow. A little beyond this point we forded the river, ascended the
valley a few versts farther, and then crossed to Sokolnic Rood-
nick, or " silver mine," a short distance beyond which is the mine
of Riddersk. Some rich veins of silver ore have been found in
the low hills thrown up in this valley, which is nearly surrounded
by high mountains. It is a singular fact, that wherever the silver
ore is found, the country is almost destitute of wood. As there
are no smelting works at Riddersk, the ore is broken up and sent
to the smelting works in Zmeinogorsk, Barnaoul, and Pavlovsky ;
to the two latter works it is conveyed not less than six or seven
hundred versts.
About fifteen versts from Riddersk is Ivanoffsky Belock, a moun
tain on which snow lies all the year, and a bold mass it appears
when seen from the valley. There is the source of the Gromo-
tooka, one of the wildest rivers in the Altai; and, as its name
Grom (thunder) implies, it is traly a thundering stream. Its
roar is heard at a great distance; and when near, it is impossible
to hear any person speak. At times it sweeps huge masses of
rock down, tearing up everything in its course ; and even when
the water is low it is exceedingly dangerous to cross. Some years
ago a mounted mining officer was crossing, when both horse and
rider were swept away in a moment, and carried down the roaring
torrent. Fortunately, the latter was driven against some rocks
on the bank, where he was caught up by one of his own men;
but it was long before he recovered : the horse was lost.
Beyond Riddersk the journey must be made on horseback, as
no wheeled carriage could travel in these valleys. Twenty horses
were engaged to accompany me, and fifteen men ; and as five of
the latter carried rifles, and the other ten axes, I must own we
had rather a bandit-like appearance. We left Riddersk at eleven

POPERETCHNAIA. 153
o'clock in the moming, having to ride only twenty versts to the
last village in this part of the Altai. Our track was along a val
ley at the foot of Ivanoffsky Belock, affording me several views
of the chain, and at four o'clock we arrived at Poperetchnaia,
where we were to pass the night. The kind-hearted villagers gave
us a most hearty welcome, and brought me fresh honey in the
comb, deliciously flavored, like the perfume of the wild flowers
on which the bees feed.
This place stands in a lovely valley, apparently closed on all
sides with high mountains ; and when standing near, there ap
pears to be no outlet for the water which is running rapidly past.
While I was sketching a view of the village looking to the west
ward, the sun descended below the mountains, spreading a glori
ous light upon this quiet little spot, occupied by only eighteen
famihes, who live here undisturbed by events that shake empires
to their centre. Each family have their horses and cows ; there
is pasture around the village sufficient for large herds, while in
some of the valleys they can make abundance of hay for their
winter fodder. They have also free access to the stags on the
mountains and tbe deer on the hills, and find a great variety of
fish in the rivers. Every peasant possesses numerous hives of
bees, which produce great quantities of delicious honey; wild
fruit is also very plentiful. Fashion and finery have not yet
intruded into this quiet valley, and every one is contented. They
have all the necessaries and many of the luxuries of life, which
only a man with a good income could procure in Europe. One
thing, however, they do not possess — " freedom." Even in this
far-distant spot their number and age are known. The sons are
ordered to the mines, perhaps a thousand versts away, where they
must work and toil for less than threepence a day, probably with
out seeing home or parents for years ; their lot may even be much
worse — they may be made soldiers, and then it is almost certain
they will never see either their friends or this peaceful spot again.
An incident happened here the summer before my visit, which
will be a subject of conversation for a generation or two to come.
The little rivulet Poperetchnaia has its source in the Ivanoffsky
Belock, from which it flows very rapidly, especially in the early
part of the summer, when the snow is melting in the mountains.
About half a verst above the village there was a slight depression
in the little valley, and here the villagers decided on building

154 A MOUNTAIN TORRENT.
their mill. A small embankment was carried aoross, that raised
the water sufficiently to get a fall for their water-wheel, and the
building was soon ereoted with logs. The whole of the rude ma
chinery was constructed by the peasants, and put together in the
mill; the water-wheel turned, the mill-stones ground the corn,
and all went on well, till one day in the summer a frightful thun
der-storm occurred over Ivanoffsky Belock, and the rain poured
down, as the villagers said, in streams. At length a very unusual
sound was heard in the mountain, even above the rolling of the
thunder. The men left their cottages alarmed : some of them
ran toward the mill ; the man employed in it was also frightened,
and joined his neighbors. The roaring came nearer, when one of
them exclaimed, " It is water coming down !" While some ran
back to the village to give warning to their families, the others
stood watching on the elevated ground. At last down came the
torrent, driving before it trees and stones, and tearing up every
thing in its course. On it rushed, rolling the stones with terrific
fury, till all at once it reached the mill-pond, when the embank
ment and mill were swept away in a mass ; nor were the mill-stones
ever found. Fortunately, the houses remained intact ; the only
stracture that suffered was the mill.
Having sketched the scene of this disaster, with the gorge and
Ivanoffsky Belock in the distance, I started on foot toward the
wood whioh skirts the foot of the mountains. Here I found evi
dence enough of the power of the flood : immense blocks of stone
had been brought down and thrown on to the bank, and others were
piled up against them. I measured some, and found them from
twenty-five to thirty tons in weight; one contained 470 cubic-
feet. I was the guest of the patriarch of this little community — a
fine old man, with a head and countenance that might have served
as a model for one of the Evangelists. His gray beard was set
off by the ruddy glow of his face, which bespoke health and hap
piness. His dress was a simple white shirt hanging over blue
linen trowsers, and tied round his waist with a red sash ; his
trowsers were tucked into a pair of boots which reached nearly to
his knees : this was his summer dress. In winter he would add
a wolf or sheep skin coat, that then completed his costume. One
of his sons, a fine young man, had been ordered to join my party;
and his wife, a respectable and clean-looking woman, had every-

ROliBER SCENE. 155
thing in perfect order in her cottage. The walls, benches, tables,
and floors were very clean, being often scrubbed with birch bark
aud coarse sand, which makes the wood look new. Her dress
was a white linen chemise, a pink striped sarafan, with a bright
red handkerchief, formed into a cap, on her head; shoes, but
no stockings. Everything around this family i^idicated ease and
comfort. The following moming I was out very early sketching, and at
ten o'clock all were ready to start. The whole of the population
tumed out to see us. I thanked the old couple for their kindness,
said good-by to the villagers, and rode away along the valley at
the foot of Ivanoffsky Belock, whose high, snowy peaks and
rugged precipices formed a striking contrast to the wooded valley
beneath, now smiling in all its summer glory of luxuriant foliage
and flowers. The ride was most delightful, through a country
having flne clumps of birch and fine trees spread about, forming
beautiful groups.
Among these park-like scenes, every few versts afforded some
thing new for my pencil. Indeed, so much had I been interested
with the scenery, that I had taken no note of time till night
began to draw in, and caught us in a part of the valley destitute of
water. We were now compelled to continue our ride, and ascended
a ravine. Late in the evening we reached a clump of fine cedars,
near which a small stream was dashing and leaping among the
rocks. At a hundred paces distant, we found grass for the horses ;
this decided me to encamp, and my bed-room was prepared under
a large cedar. Each man was busy at his duties ; some unload
ing the horses, and stowing the baggage under the trees ; others
cutting wood and making fires, which were soon burning brightly.
The Cossack and my man were getting the tea apparatus ready,
and very soon the smoking beverage was placed before me.
Iiaving taken a liberal portion, I strolled to a little distance. In
front of me were large blocks of granite, which had been rolled
down by water, and lay tumbled about in marvellous 3onfusion,
having large plants and bushes growing among them. The fires
were burning fiercely, tinging the rocks and trees with a red
glare, while the dark figures of the men flitting to and fro, the
arms hanging from the branches, and the baggage piled up under
the trees, gave to the scene the character of robbers feasting after
a successful expedition.

156 GIGANTIC CEDARS.
After studymg our night's quarters and our unprepossessing
appearance, I returned, rolled myself up in my cloak, and was
soon lulled to sleep by the dashing of the water and the sighing
of the wind through the branches. When I awoke in the morn
ing I found everything covered with a white frost, which indi
cated that we had ascended considerably above the valley.
Almost immediately on leaving our resting-place we entered a
dense forest of cedars, apparently covering the mountain over
which we had to ride, and were soon in a thick underwood,
which rendered our progress slow. Large trunks of trees were
lying almost covered with moss and plants — some so much decayed
that they crumbled into dust when a horse placed his foot on
them ; others, more sound, caused many a stumble. We had a
very steep ascent for a couple of hours, after which we emerged
from the underwood into a magnificent cedar forest, where the
ground was covered with grass and plants, and free from bushes.
It was a splendid forest scene, with gigantic trees on every side,
their gnarled and twisted branches forming a canopy through
which the sun could scarcely penetrate. I had before seen cedars
in the Oural, but in comparison with these they were very small.
Here I found them in a southerly region, high in the mountains,
and in their native woods, where the tree grows in all its grandeur
and beauty. There was one spot where we stopped to breathe
our horses which I think was the most lovely I ever saw. I
sketched the scene ; we then mounted, continuing to ascend, and
in half an hour reached the summit. We rode two or three versts
along this ridge, and then began to descend on the south side of
the mountain. A striking change was visible. At first there
were a few straggling trees in the ravines, and then they disap
peared altogether. This had a strange effect, but I afterward found
it was almost universal, as no forests grow on the south declivities
of the chain. After descending for about an hour, and orossing
another ridge, we had a fine view into the valley of the Koksa,
with the Kaier Koomin Mountains in the distance.
It was now past three o'clock, and the River Karaguy, on which
we were to encamp, was still a long way in front. This induced
me to take two men and descend into the valley of the Koksa,
and send the party forward the nearest way to our destination.
Their direction was southeast, ours nearly due north. In less
than an hour I reached the Koksa Lake, which is near the source

WINTER DWELLINGS. 157
of the River Koksa. It is now small, but has been extensive at
some very distant period, before the river broke through a mass
of rocks at the lower end of the valley. There are several beau
tiful varieties of jasper and porphyry in the mountains, but they
are too far away to be used. After sketching a view of the lake,
we crossed the country to follow our companions. We had a
small mountain to cross, and on gaining the summit I saw that
evening was covering the valleys with her dark mantle, while the
high peaks around were still glowing with light. But these had
become gray and indistinct before we reached the valley, nor could
we see any signs of our people. We now put our horses to a
sharp trot, following a track we found leading down the valley.
In about an hour we tumed round some rocks, and beheld a fire
blazing brightly at the distance of a few versts. We lost no time
in reaching the spot, where I refreshed myself with my favorite
beverage, and very shortly afterward, wrapped up in my cloak,
was fast asleep.
I had a dip in the River Karaguy before the sun rose, though
the ground was again covered with white frost, which rendered
the grass crisp under my feet, and made the morning air rather
chilly. Soon the mountain tops were tipped with the sun's rays:
this had a cheering effect ; the light gradually crept lower into
the valley, the crystals which sparkled on the grass so brilliantly
melted away, and the scene changed.
On looking round I discovered the skeletons of some Kalmuck
winter dwellings; the birch bark had been stripped off these
conical houses, and only the bare poles were standing.
At this time of the year the inhabitants are up in the moun
tains, where they find plenty" of grass for their cattle, and where
they are free from those torments, the musquitoes.
In autumn they will return to this place, cover their yourts
with new bark, and in a few days their winter dwellings will be
completed. I was informed by the natives that in some of these
upper valleys of the Altai the winters are peculiarly mild, heavy
falls of snow seldom occurring. Here the cattle and wild animals
easily find their food throughout this dreary season. At the end
of October, or by the first week in November, the three families
who occupy this spot are made prisoners for the winter, as it is
impossible to cross the mountains when once the snow is deep.
With two companions I rode toward the River Arakym, having

158 BLACK SQUIRRELS.
arranged that the other men should remain, pack up the things,
load the horses, and follow our tracks I forded the river, turned
up a narrow valley to the southward, and rode along the bank of
a small stream for about an hour, after which I crossed the valley,
and began to ascend the mountains to the eastward. These form
a small chain which separates the valleys of the Karaguy and
Arakym. Our way was through woods of birch, pine, and larch,
bat not growing thickly or with underwood ; in many places I
almost fancied that the trees had been planted and the grounds
laid out, with little glades between the plantations, along which
we rode, wending our way upward. Having reached an open
space, I observed that we were on a low ridge, between mountains
which rose to a great height on both sides, terminating in lofty
crags, with cedars growing out of their riven sides. We had now
a fine level grassy turf, with a few scattered rocks, which had
rolled from the mountains above.
While riding along this beautiful place, I saw, for the first time,
many black squirrels skipping about in the branches ; they
enlivened the scene, and looked very knowing and pretty, sitting
among the foliage. Their fur is a dark gray in winter, at which
season only the Kalmucks kill them, for it is not good in the
summer. For the last half hour I had ridden slowly on, watching
the gambols of these little creatures in the grass, and their
scampering up the trees. When we came near them they would
run along the boughs, and leap from tree to tree, sometimes two
or three on different branches, evidently racing. While I was
staring up at the squirrels my horse suddenly stopped on the
edge of some rocks overlooking the valley of the Arakym.
This valley is a celebrated hunting-ground for the Kalmucks,
and, as they state, the great battle-field of the bucks in the rutting
season. Stags are numerous in the mountains around, and great
numbers are shot when they come to drink at the lake. As we
descended I found a pair of large horns whioh had been shed by
one of these noble and graceful animals. One of my men, an old
hunter, said we should not find any stags here now, as they were
all in the higher regions near the snow, where the musquitoes and
flies cannot follow them. Even the bears, with their rough
shaggy coats, jjannot remain in the valleys in summer, where
these insects are extremely numerous. Two frosty nights have
already effected a wonderful change ; it is only in the warm sun,

RIVER ARAKYM. 159
and in a sheltered situation, that the musquitoes are troublesome :
three or four more cold nights, and their annoyance is over for
this year.
On reaching the bottom of the valley, I found it thickly
covered with small picta-trees and long grass ; in spring much of
this part is under water. After riding about ten versts, we came
to a branch of the River Arakym, running from the south, where
the valley extends up toward the Cholsoun chain. It was neces
sary to wait here till the other men arrived, otherwise we might
get separated, as several ravines branched off into the mountains,
and the river divides into two branches near the head of the valley.
We therefore stopped at the foot of some high rooks, near whioh
was plenty of grass, and our horses were turned loose to feed.
Very soon we had a large fire buming and refreshments prepared.
The men arrived in about half an hour.
We recommenced our ride up the bank of the little river, and
followed its windings two or three versts, when we came upon
some rocks whioh crossed the valley, and formed it into a lake.
The water has cut a channel fifty or sixty feet deep, through
which it rushes with great force ; although small, it is exceedingly
picturesque. Birch and picta-trees are growing out of the ore-
vices, and the river forms several beautiful cascades. After
sketching, I rode on into a muoh broader valley, and crossed
toward a fine belt of timber, on reaching whioh I found myself
on the bank of the Arakym. The river was wide and rapid,
rolling and dashing over large stones with a great noise. I
wanted to cross to the opposite bank ; but here it was impossible,
as no horse could stand in the stream. We turned up the bank,
and rode fast toward a great ravine in the mountain, through
which I supposed the river entered the valley. Although it
appeared quite near, we were two hours riding sharply before we
reached it. Here I observed that the river was divided by a
great mass of rocks, piled up picturesquely, having been washed
down during a series of ages, and trees and bushes now grow
upon them most luxuriantly. The rocks on both sides of this
gorge rise to a great elevation, and are broken into very ragged
crags, with dwarf cedars springing out of the clefts ; on the sum
mit there is scarcely any vegetation, a proof that we are getting
far up in the Altai.
Even now, when the water is very low, it is impossible to hear

160

AN ADVENTURE.

any one speak when near the river. What will it be when the
floods come down during a storm? then, indeed, the rushing
water must be sublirae, and the roar terriflc. Before I had
finished my sketch the evening was drawing in fast ; one of my
men ascended some high rocks to look out for the smoke at our
encampment, but none could be seen. I was determined to ride
up into the gorge and see what it was like before retuming, as
well as to ascertain if we could pass through it, because otherwise
we must seek another route and cross the mountains to the west
ward. We mounted our horses and rode up the valley for about
a verst, when we reached the mouth of the gorge, and came upon
a track leading into it, rapidly ascending high above the river.
After riding along this ledge for some distance, we saw that it
would be possible to pass through the gorge. It was fearful to
look down into the chasm, and see the water rushing past at so
great a depth beneath our feet.
The rocks were almost perpendicular : bushes, plants, and
flowers were growing on the small ledges and from the crevices,
adding great beauty to the rugged spot. While gazing on this
scene, one of the men asked me what o'clock it was, probably
supposing that I did not notice how fast night was coming on.
As I took my watch out of my waistcoat pocket it dropped from
the chain, falling over the edge of the rocks, and, being stopped
in its descent, hung on the thick branches of a small bush several
yards below the ledge. I looked at the chain, and observed that
the pin had been shaken out of the swivel while riding, which
explained the accident. We all dismounted, and the horses
having been secured, we peeped over the precipice. It was im
possible to reach the watch. To recover it by any means at our
disposal seemed equally hopeless. Knowing, however, that eaoh
man possessed a long rein to secure his horse with, of considera
ble strength, I had the three tied together, and with one end
fastened under my arms, and with the two men grasping the
other, I hastily undertook the descent; for the trinket being an
old friend, as well as of some value, I did not feel disposed to
abandon it without making an effort for its recovery. All being
ready, I found that it was necessary to go a few paces up the
path; then I got down, holding on as well as I could by the
crevices, and the men keeping the leather thong tight. I was
not long in reaching the narrow ledge, but I could only move

GRANITE BOWL. 161
along by their holding me up. At last I got close to the bush.
The difficulty now was to reach the watch without touching the
branches, otherwise it might drop through into the roaring torrent
below. Tl 3 men above were sustaining me with a tight grasp,
watching iiy proceedings with anxious faces, not venturing to
say a word, hardly venturing to breathe. Firmly flxing my foot
in a crevice, I cried to them to let me lean over considerably j
carefully they followed my directions, and I was enabled to reach
the watch without disturbing a leaf; a minute sufficed to transfer
it to my pocket in safety, which being done, the men, at a signal,
joyfully pulled, and I scrambled to the top, where I landed
without accident, much to the satisfaction of my companions. It
was only while riding quietly down the valley seeking our
encampment that I thought of the risk I had run, and then it
made me shudder. My men seemed powerfully impressed by
the incident : it was a subject of conversation during the evening,
and evidently excited no slight interest.
Our camp was all in motion as the day was breaking — even
before the mountain peaks were touched with light, and when all
was gray and gloomy. My ablutions were made in a large granite
bowl, some ten feet in diameter, and about five feet deep, scooped
out of the rock, in which some small fishes were playing, the water
being constantly changed, and so cold that it made me shiver.
When the sun had risen high enough to send his rays into the
valley, my two men and our horses were ready to retrace ou^ steps
toward the pass, leaving the others to pack up and follow. We
rode slowly on by a new track, and ascended a spur of the moun
tain which juts out into the valley. This enabled me to obtain a
peep into a ravine on the opposite side of the river, which it was
utterly impossible to reach, as the rushing torrent formed a bar
rier no man could cross. Having sketched the view, I rode on,
and was soon at the place of our last night's adventure. We
stopped, and I looked down with feelings of gratitude upon the
friendly bush that had intercepted my faithful time-keeper. One
of the men fixed a branch to point out the place to the rest of our
party when they passed.
As we ascended farther into the pass, the track became more
difficult and the scene more rugged. On the opposite side of the
torrent the crags rose up in the wildest grandeur. Time had
chiselled them with his unsparing hand into varied forms — some
11

162, A WATERFALL.
like turreted battlements and mighty towers; others into enor
mous buttresses propping up the mountain. After riding about
half a verst we emerged from these rocky masses into a small val
ley that must have been a very deep lake before the gorge was rent
open in the mountain. I have crossed this region twice, and have
brought back with me some beautiful specimens of porphyry and
jasper from these mountains. Having sketched the little yalley,
through which the river rans sluggishly, I turned and rode on. I
soon observed a great change in the aspect of the country, the trees
diminishing in number as well as in size, and there was as sensi
ble a falling off in the vegetation. Short mossy grass had taken
the place of a more luxuriant herbage, sprinkled over with loose
masses of rock, round some of which the dwarf juniper was twin
ing its branches.
Hearing the sound of falling water from the opposite side of the
valley, I rode in the direction, and discovered it in a small rooky
ravine to whioh it was impossible to ride. Leaving one man with
the horses, I started with the other, following up the little stream
through a thick mass of cedars and fallen rocks, covered with
dark green and yellow moss, whioh rendered them exceedingly
slippery and difficult to walk over. I had several tumbles before
I reached the object of my search; at length I stood before a
beautiful waterfall, that came bounding down in three leaps, the
.whole height being about sixty feet. The water looked white
and sparkling as it fell over the dark purple precipice ; the lower
fall spread out wider, and appeared like a piece of gauze hanging
over the rocks.
I was determined to ascend to the top of the precipice forming
this ravine, and succeeded in doing so. I then followed up the
stream for about three hundred paces, and found that it issued
from a small lake or mountain tam, apparently very deep. The
water was of a dark green color, but as clear as crystal, and the
rocks surrounding it were quite perpendicular. We returned to
our horses over high masses of jasper, and saw three stags far up
in the mountain, looking down upon us apparently with much
astonishment, but there was no getting within shot of them.
After riding a short distance we observed our friends ascending a
mountain to the south, about a verst distant. We tried to make
them hear by shouting, but this was fruitless ; at last I fired brth
barrels of my gun, which they heard, and immediately halted.

ASCENT OF THE CHOLSOUN. 163
Our horses being fresh, having rested several times during my
sketching, enabled us soon to form a junction, and, after enjoying
sufficient rest and refreshment, I prepared to ascend the summit
of the Cholsoun. The last stunted cedars were soon passed, when
with two companions, I gained a small depression on the moun
tain that was rich in plants and flowers. Our horses trampled on
a beautiful bed of Aquilegia: the plants, reaching up to our
saddle-flaps, were in full bloom ; the flowers were varied, blue
and white ; some a deep purple, and others purple edged with
white. Fortunately, I obtained plenty of ripe seed. Near this
plaoe I also met with Cypripedium guttatum, with its white and
pink flowers. (This I had found in the Oural.) There were
also many flne Primulce, of a deep red color, flowering in large
bunches. These and the short turf rendered this spot quite a
little garden among the ragged precipices towering far above it.
Immediately after quitting it we turned the point of some rocks,
and looked down into the lake ; it was lying in a deep bowl-
shaped depression, quiet and calm, within its grassy banks. I
rode down on to its shore; it was shallow for a few paces, and
then appeared to descend perpendicularly, most probably to a
great depth, as the water looked very dark. We were compelled
to retrace our steps, the other sides of this bowl being exceedingly
steep. The ascent of the Cholsoun from the north side is not abrupt,
though the last half verst is steep and rocky : nevertheless, we
rode our horses to the summit, or rather to the foot of the large
rocky peaks that shoot far above the rounded mountain top.
These are bare granite, without a blade of grass upon them, and
do not form a continuous ridge or crest on the mountain, but
stand up in isolated masses, often at a considerable distance from
each other. Having ascended with some difficulty to the top of
one of these peaks, I saw our little caravan, composed of the men
I had left to proceed by another route, skirting the mountain
lower down. I knew that they would cross the summit seven or
eight versts to the east, go straight to the Cholsoun pass, and
descend into a valley on the south, which I had arranged should
be our place of rest for the night.
The views from this part of the chain (which is not the
highest) are very grand. On one side Nature exhibits her most
rugged forms, peaks, and crags of all shapes rising up far into

164 FEARFUL STORM IN THE MOUNTAINS.
the clear blue vault of heaven ; while on the other, mountain
rises above mountain, vanishing into distance, until they melt into
forms like thin gray clouds on the horizon. It was impossible to
spare much time going from plaoe to place, looking to the north,
south, or west, to decide which view I should sketch first. The
chains to the north happened to be beautifully lighted up, some
in sunshine, others in shade, producing a wonderful effect of dis
tance and space. This induced me to sit down to work in right
good earnest, and I was soon so absorbed in my occupation that I
ieither thought of time, distance, nor the country we had to ride
jver. Our horses had been secured and left to feed, and my men
were much interested in my work, until at last, as I supposed,
they grew weary. First one would leave, and go to the south side
of the rocks under which I was sketching. Soon after he re
turned, the other went ; yet they said nothing. I had now been
at work more than two hours, and this going to and fro had oc
curred several times. At length I was certain that they wished
to speak to me. I looked at them, and waited for the communi
cation. Then one of them said, " Grom scora boodit" (it will
thunder soon), and made a sign for me to go with him. I put
down my sketch, and hurried to the other side of the peak, when
I beheld the cause of their alarm : evidently a frightful storm
was coming toward us, for the high peaks to the west were just
being wrapped in a terrible black mantle. There was not a mo
ment to lose ; the men ran to bring the horses, and I hastened to
pack up my sketching materials. This was but the work of a few
minutes. We then mounted and rode past the rocks to see if
the storm was approaching. Several of the peaks were already
obscured, and now the clouds were wheeling round a very high
summit, which I supposed to be eight, or, at most, ten versts
distant, across a deep valley. To be caught on this summit in
such a storm was something fearful, and the men were really
alarmed. There was only one place on the south side by which
we could descend : it was the Cholsoun pass, and that was per
haps more than eight versts distant. Having watched the storm
two or three minutes, we heard the distant thunder, and then
knew that the conflict of the elements had begun.
Without speaking a word, we turned our horses, and started
off at a gallop. It was a race for the pass, as it was only in this
ravine that we could hope for shelter. Every few minutes the

TERRIFIC HURRICANE. 165
thunder rolled nearer and nearer, and on we gallopped ; the horses,
with an instinctive dread of what was following, putting forth
their full powers, without either whip or spur. Road or track
there was none ; only some high rocky peaks pointed out to my
companions the head of the pass. Our course was straight toward
these : sometimes over fine mossy turf, then over ground rough
and stony, which would, under any other circumstances, have
caused both horse and rider to hesitate before dashing onward at
the speed at which we were going. The storra was still behind
us, for as yet we had only seen the fiash, but not the streams of
lightning that were descending every two or three minutes in our
rear, followed by claps of thunder, which resounded among the
mountains until the distant echo was lost in another loud roar.
At a short distance in front of us I beheld huge pillars of rock
rising up fifty or sixty feet, which reminded me of Stonehenge,
but on a most gigantic "scale. My men turned a little to the left
to avoid this labyrinth of rooks. I looked at the plaoe with
intense interest, determined to visit it, if possible, on the mor
row. We were within a couple of versts of the head of the pass
when we heard a great rushing sound behind us. Instantly our
heads were tumed to see what was coming, when we beheld
branches of cedar torn up from the valley, carried over the
rocky peaks, and whirled high into the air : this was the blast
before the storm, whioh now swept on with terrific force. For
tunately for us, the rooky pillars broke the fury of the gust, or
we should have been hurled down to a certainty ; for at a short
distance on eaoh side of us, the dwarf cedars which creep over
the rocks were torn up, and carried along by the hurricane. We
found it difficult to sit our horses, as they swerved and bounded
on when the fearful squall rushed past.
The storm was now near, but for the last few minutes there
had not been a flash. This was even more appalling than the
loud thunder. I turned my head, and saw a thick red stream
strike among the rocks we had just passed ; at the same instant
there were three reports like the flring of a heavily-loaded mus
ket over our heads, and then oame a crash which made our horses
shudder, although in a gallop. Now came hailstones so thick
that for a moment they almost blinded us ; the lightning flashed
in quick succession, and the thunder was incessant.
We reached the pass, and turned into its ragged jaws with a

163 EFFECT OF THE STORM. — PRECIPICES.
delight known only to a mariner when he runs his sinking craft
iuto a safe haven. In about ten minutes we were quietly stand
ing under the shelter of some friendly rocks, our tired horses
trembling with fear. The men crossed themselves; nor did I
forget to offer up my thanks for our preservation. The storm
still raged above us with terrific fury and awful grandeur ; but
the overhanging masses under which we crouched afforded us
complete protection, and I listened to the dreadful tempest with
mingled feelings of awe and pleasure. In a very few minutes the
ground was covered with a thick coating of hail, giving a wintry
aspect to the scene which had been so calm and beautiful two
short hours before. The storm rolled on : in about an hour we
could only hear its murmurings in the distance. Presently the
clouds were dispersed ; the sun shone out in all his splendor, ren
dered still more brilliant by the intensely black masses of vapor
which enveloped the distant crags. My companions now disco
vered that we were not in the Cholsoun pass, but in a small ravine
down which it was impossible to proceed even on foot, for at a
very short distance below our sheltering place the precipices were
perpendicular to the depth of at least three hundred feet, over
which a little stream was leaping, to be dispersed in vapor before
reaching the bottom. It was the dashing of the water whioh drew
my attention to it ; from below, no doubt, it must have appeared
exceedingly pretty.
It was now quite time to descend, as our people were encamped
somewhere in the valley beneath. One of my men found that we
had missed the pass, and had gone considerably beyond it during
the storm. We therefore rode back, and turned into a ravine,
which he said would lead us to the right track lower down. This
proved correct ; and in about two hours we were quietly seated
by our camp-fire, under some magnificent cedars, on the bank of
a roaring torrent greatly swollen by the storm. Our companions
had heard the thunder in the distance, and there had been a few .
drops of rain, but not even enough to wet the ground. The forest
was so thick around our camp that they could not see the moun
tains; it was only the rising and thundering of the torrent that
told them what had happened there.
After taking sufficient refreshment, and writing up my journal
by the light of a blazing fire, I tumed down at the root of a mag-

POREST RIDE. — FOG. 167
nificent cedar, wrapped myself in my cloak, and slept soundly
until morning.
It was delightful to seo the sunbeams struggling through the
branches, and hear the birds singing their matin songs. All this
betokened a fine day for my return to the Cholsoun. Knowing it
would take at least four hours to ride to the rocky pillars which
we passed in the storm, I hastened our departure, and at six o'clock
we started, having arranged that our little caravan should follow
the stream toward the valley of the Kaier Koomrn, and encamp
after travelling three, or, at most, four hours, to enable me and
my two comrades to join them in the evening. Our ride through
the forest was not agreeable, for the branehes and rank herbage,
which in many places were far above our horses' heads, were
covered with large dew-drops, sparkling like diamonds, and giving
us a shower-bath every few steps. Before we got half way through
the forest we were completely drenched, which was rather unplea
sant, as w« should soon have the sharp mountain air chilling us
to the bone. On emerging from the forest I observed that all the
upper part of the Cholsoun was wrapped in a dense cloud, extend
ing far down its rugged sides. A little lower in the pass the fog
was being carried up in curling eddies : this was a good sign, and
I anticipated a fine day. We rode on shivering in our wet cloth
ing : sometimes a cold cutting breeze rushing down the ravines
made my teeth chatter, but did not in the slightest degree affect
my sense of the picturesque ; for on reaching a part of the pass
presenting peculiarly striking features, I sat down on a large block
of granite, and sketched a view looking down toward the Kaier
Koomin, and the mountains to the south.
While at my work I often looked toward the summit of the
Cholsoun, hoping to see the fog clear off. At last I perceived it
slowly rising, which gave me hopes of a fine day. We immedi
ately mounted and rode on, but .had not ascended far when the
sun broke through the rolling vapor, and cheered us with his
genial warmth. In an hour we were at the top of the pass, riding
in splendid sunshine, the fog, however, still hanging on the sum
mits. Although the huge rocky pillars were enveloped in mist, I
knew the direction in which to find them, and turned that way.
Presently we came up to some fallen rooks, and threaded our way
among them. The fog was now rolling over us ; still, we rode on
slowly ; but, after somewhat less than an hour, it became so thick

168 DANGEROUS SITUATION. — SUBLIME REGION.
that we were obliged to stop at the foot of some precipices. Here
we dismounted, and sat down with a full conviction that we must
remain so long as the fog continued. One hour passed without
any change for the better; the second was fleeting fast, whioh
gave us great anxiety. If the fog did not clear off soon, we should
undoubtedly be detained here for the night, when hunger would
be added to cold. ¦ At length the clouds began to drive past us
from the westward, with a veiy gentle breeze. Suddenly one of
the men, after listening very attentively, exclaimed in Russian,
" There is a waterfall !" I took out my compass, and found the
sound came from the southwest. This induced me to think we
had been riding straight toward some frightful precipices which
I had seen the day before ; if so, we must be very near the brink,
to hear the rushing of the water in the valley below, and any at
tempt to move now would be madness. The second hour was
nearly gone, when, to our infinite joy, we began to see indistinctly
forms in front of us ; in a few minutes we beheld more clearly a
colossal mass rising up, its summits lost in driving clouds ; farther
on were the dim outlines of broken crags below us. At last the
mass of vapor passed off, and a deep gulf, with the rocks and
mountains beyond it, was laid before us, as if by enchantment.
It was evident that we had ridden along for four or five hundred
paces parallel with these precipices, and not more than twenty
yards from their fearful brink. The clouds now rolled up, like
some vast curtain uncovering these mighty mountain chains;
and, after sitting so long, wet, cold, and shivering, it is impossible
to express the delight with which I watched the sun burst forth,
lighting up peak and valley with his radiance.
To the southeast stands Bielouka, proudly rearing his lofty
double head, adorned with eternal snows and glaciers, and far
overtopping all the other chains, although many mountains around
him are covered with the same everlasting garment of snow.
Beneath these were many other summits tipped with white, show
ing that they have also passed the line of congelation. Still lower
was one vast sea of mountain crests, surrounding these giants of
the Altai — some so distant that they looked like ethereal vapor
dissolving on the horizon ; others, with their peaks and crags a
little more distinct, sparkled brightly in the sun. Nearer was a
lower range, extending far, with many a dark purple peak and
ridge, enclosing valleys and ravines, into which the precious metal

WILD SCENE. — ROCKY PILLARS. 169
has been washed ages ago. Still nearer are the brown, gray, and
green ridges of the Cholsoun, with their jagged rocks, and cas
cades streaming down their rugged sides ; these, with a foreground
of gigantic granite peaks heaped far up toward heaven, rich in
many a mossy color, with dwarf cedars creeping over their ouri-
ous forms, with mossy turf around their bases, and small clumps
of a deep-red Primula scattered am\)ng the grass, form the prin
cipal features of one of the grandest panoramas in nature. Such
scenes, and many others through whioh I have passed, offer most
glorious studies to the lover of Nature, possessed of suffioieni
courage to woo her in these sublime regions when bedecked in
her wild and gorgeous attire.
About half an hour's ride from the place where I sat and
sketched stood the labyrinth of rocky pillars whioh we passed in
the thunder-storm. They are granite, worn into pillars of various
forms, curiously grouped around a large mass in the centre.
When seen from a distance they had reminded me of Stonehenge,
but on approaching them, I found that they were prodigious
masses; it was, however, only by riding through this curious
place that I could judge of their magnitude. Not far from them,
to the west, are some enormous precipices ; perhaps these rocks
have once formed part of some higher cliffs, whioh have over
looked the dark valley below. It is somewhat difficult to com
prehend how these isolated masses should have been left here,
unless the intermediate parts should have decayed and crumbled
into small particles, and in this state have been washed into the
valley : fallen blocks are not found in this neighborhood of any
considerable size or quantity.
Having delineated this extroardinary landscape, I observed that
it was time to descend toward the valley and seek our encamp
ment. After examining the country for a few minutes, I thought
we could save a considerable distance by crossing a lower range
Our only difficulty was the rocky precipices to the west : could
we descend these, or find some way to the river in the valley, we
should soon reach our destination. We turned our steps west
ward till we came upon a ravine, which we succeeded in descend
ing on foot, leading our horses, for riding down was impossible.
After several difficulties had been overcome, we reached the
valley, and skirted along the side of the steep ground above the
liver; this led us into a pass infinitely more grand than the Ch,)l-

170 A SUPPERLESS BIVOUAC.
soun. Down this wild scene we found our way ; in one part it
was a narrow chasm, with rocks on each side of enormous height.
Looking back, a very high conical mountain was seen, with broken
and almost perpendicular crags, forming a beautiful picture seen
through a natural frame.
Hunger now began to intimate that, however fine the scenery,
the cravings of the inner man would not be satisfied without some
thing more substantial. We therefore hastened on, and reached
our old encampment at six o'clock, having saved at least a two
hours' ride. A bright fire was burning ; from this we supposed
our friends had not long left, whioh induced us to hope we should
soon find them, and we pushed on as fast as possible, following
their track. After riding another hour, and fording the river from
one bank to the other several times, night began to creep over
this narrow valley, rendering it difficult to find our way. Again
we had to ford the river, which became deep and rapid, nor
could we discover the path, or anything to guide us. My men
now objected to fording it again in the dark; it had become too
dangerous. Under these circumstances, there was no alternative
but to go supperless to bed, and the sooner the better. It was
therefore decided to sleep here, if sleep were possible in such a
place ; and with this intention we forced our way into the wood
to some thick picta-trees, where we found a small space of open
ground ; a light was struck, and some birch bark stripped off a
tree and piled up, which, being ignited, made a strong light.
While the men fastened and unsaddled the horses, I made the
fire, which was shortly burning famously. Our saddle-cloths were
spread, and the saddles arranged for pillows ; plenty of wood was
piled on, making a large fire sufficient to roast a sheep, had one
been ready for us. Unpleasant as the circumstances were, we
were in warm and comfortable quarters in comparison with our
detention among the rocks on the Cholsoun, where we must have
remained had the fog continued ; and though we were hungry, we
felt that we might have been much worse off. Our horses fared
better : they had dined, and found something even here for supper.
My comrades were soon fast asleep. I lay for a time thinking
over the scenes on the mountains until tired nature could stand it
no longer, when I followed their example.
About three o'clock in the morning, one of the men awoke me
by throwing wood on tbe fixe, more fuel being required, as it

SIGNS OF WINTER. — TALMANE. — ECHO. 171
was then very chilly. Soon as the fire had been replenished, I
stretched myself out again, and slept until daylight. When we
awoke our horses were quickly saddled. We crossed the river,
discovered the track, and in about two hours found our com
panions fast asleep; they were roused up, tea made with the
utmost dispatch, and liberal libations prepared us for new adven
tures. But a very sharp frost this morning was a sure prognostic
of approaching winter, that would put a stop to mountain travel
ling ; new snow had already fallen on some of the higher parts
of the Cholsoun, and these unmistakeable signs induced me to
hasten onward.

CHAPTER XIII.
FRONTIER OF THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
I ORDERED another man to join my party this morning, as we
might find some difficulty in fording the river, should I think it
necessary to do so. We rode down the valley of Kaier Koomin,
leaving the rest to follow. The country was now losing its sterile
appearance ; indeed, the valley is beautifully wooded, and covered
with fine grass. The river, whioh winds about very muoh, is a
rapid stream running between thickly- wooded banks, in which we
beheld as we rode along grayling and other fish sporting in shoals;
among them several large talmane, not less than three feet six to
four feet long. They appeared to consider themselves free from
any attack, as they swam slowly about close to the bank, at our
horses' feet. On my dismounting to try the effect of a bullet,
they gave a splash with their tails, and sculled away in a minute.
Shortly after this we had to swim our horses over the river, which
we found rapid and deep.
The sun now broke through the mists whioh had obscured him,
and the clouds were dispersed from the upper mountains. We
also began to feel the effects of his cheering influenoe and warmth;
the men greeted his appearance with Russian songs, that made
the valley ring again as we rode along ; most of their music,
though rather melancholy, has a pleasing effect. In one part of
the valley there is a charming echo ; we stopped opposite to the

172

RUSSIAN PEASANTS.

rocks from whioh it proceeded, and the men made the place
resound with their voices.
Russian peasants are excellent fellows ; those with me thought
nothing of their hardships of yesterday ; when we were sitting
hungry and shivering on the Cholsoun, not a murmur was
breathed. After riding for about two hours, I observed a ravine running
into the mountains to the north ; this I determined to explore for
a short distance. We therefore turned into it, and it afforded a
fine subject for my pencil. My work accomplished, we returned.

SWIMMING A DEEP STREAM.

and gallopped off down the valley, as we found by the track that
our caravan had passed ; we overtook them a few versts ahead,
preparing the midday meal. They had seen our track up in the
ravine, whioh induced them to stop sooner.

FERRY. — EAGLE MOUNTAINS. 173
The mountains were much lower, and we were evidently ap
proaching a warmer region. Our ride was exceedingly agreeable,
for we travelled over a fine grassy turf, often winding through
woods and among clumps of trees. At four o'clock we reaohed
the north bank of the Bouohtarma, a very broad and deep stream;
and on the men shouting loudly, two small boats put off from the
oppijsite shore. In the mean time the horses were being un
saddled, as thej must swim the river. When the ferrymen had
reaohed the bank, I observed that their boats were cut out of a
single tree, without any attempt at boat-building. My sketching
and shooting materials having been placed in one of these canoes,
three of us sat down ; the man rowed us across the river, then
returned to aid in swimming the horses over, six of whioh were
brought at one time by each canoe, two men holding the reins.
In a little more than an hour, all our party, horses and baggage,
were safely landed. From this ferry there is a splendid view
of the northern part of the Cholsoun chain, over which we had
passed : the southern portion was enveloped in a mass of dark
clouds, most probably another edition of the storm we had had a
few days before.
We rode off at a sharp trot toward Zirianovsky, along a good
road, but over a very uninteresting steppe, with low mountains
on eaoh side. In a little more than an hour we turned to the
west, and stopped at a point which afforded me a view of Zirian
ovsky, and the Eagle Mountain beyond. The sun had set behind
this picturesque mountain about half an hour before, and now the
effect was most gorgeous. A deep yellow was spread over the
lower part of the sky, shading upward into a silvery gray : thin
fleecy clouds of a crimson color were beautifully scattered over
the horizon, rendered still more brilliant by their contrast with
the purple tones of the Eagle Mountains. A great depth of shade
extended over the steppe from the foot of the mountains, cover
ing the Zavod with its sombre hue. The foreground was a rich
reddish-brown and dark gray, enclosing a small pond reflecting
the sky in all its brilliancy.
It was just dark as our large party rode into the Zavod. My
Cossack had gone on before to ascertain where we should be
quartered, and had sent a man to conduct us to the house, while
he got everything prepared for our meal. Our progress through
the street was marked by the barking of a numerous tribe of dogs.

174 DECENT QUARTERS. — ZIRIANOVSKY.
apparently much put out of temper by our intrusion, as they tried
to avenge themselves on the heels of our horses. Some of them
felt the effects of our heavy whips, which sent them howling, and
raised a concert of canine music, enough to rouse the whole popu
lation to arms. A house at the very top of the street had been
appointed for our reception, in which I found a decent room ;
my baggage was brought in, and I was soon installed in my new
abode. After paying due attention to the refreshments, I lay
down on some fresh hay, wrapped my cloak round me, and was
soon in the land of dreams.
While sitting at breakfast the next morning, the Director of
the Mines, a young mining engineer-officer, came into the room ;
he said the Chief of the Altai had informed him of my intended
visit, and had desired that every attention and aid should be given
to me. After a one o'clock dinner, to which he gave me an invi
tation, he proposed taking me to several places from which I could
obtain good views of Zirianovsky and the country around. Con
sequently, at the conclusion of the meal, we rode flrst up the
valley along the road toward Narym for six or seven versts, and
then retumed by the same path. Approaching Zirianovsky from
this side, there are many fine views looking toward the village.
On the right hand Revnevaya Gora rises about eight hundred
feet above the plain, while the rugged crests of the Cholsoun
chain are seen in the distance, shining brightly in the sun, for
to-day there is not a cloud hanging over them. Farther to the
west are some high mountains, near the Bouohtarma River, while
to the left rises the Eagle Mountain, with others in the distance,
among which the Irtisch winds its course. A great plain extends
up to the foot of the mountains to the west, and as far as the
ferry on the Bouohtarma; there are a few birch-trees and some
fiowering shrubs on this plain ; but, on the whole, it has a sterile
appearance, and the mountains are entirely destitute of wood.
Zirianovsky stands on some rising ground at the northwestern
side of the plain, almost surrounded by mountains to the west,
and about six or seven versts distant the Eagle Mountain rises
up rocky and picturesque. The whole space from the village to
the foot of this mountain is covered with a deep morass, which
renders the place extremely unhealthy; added to this, the water
is very bad. At the time of my visit great numbers were sick in

COSTLY MANUFACTORY. 175
the hospital, and many people die here, who are continually being
replaced from other villages in the Altai.
The silver mines of Zirianovsky are the most valuable (at the
present time) in the Altai. Some of the ores, whioh are exceed
ingly rich, are got at the depth of two hundred and eighty feet,
and in some places they have been followed to the depth of four
hundred and- ninety feet. The greatest difficulty the miners have
to encounter is the vast quantity of water almost inundating the
mines : at the period of my visit it was drawn out by pumps
worked by water-power, the wheels placed at a distance of more
than seven hundred yards from the shaft. This, with the great
friction caused by the long series of wooden rods extending from
the water-wheels to the shaft, and the rude machinery constructed
to work the pumps, renders their efforts almost useless.
A steam-engine of one hundred or one hundred and fifty horse
power would keep these mines perfeotly dry, and the men could
work in comfort ; besides which, the health of the miners and
the economy of human life are surely objects worthy of consider
ation in a country like Siberia. His imperial majesty has in
Ekaterineburg a machine manufactory almost equal to any estab
lishment in Europe, in which a steam-engine could be made at a
comparatively small cost, and transported by the River Irtisch to
within one hundred versts of Zirianovsky, which, if employed
here, would not only effect a great saving in working the mines,
but would preserve the lives of hundreds of his people. This is
only one instance in which his imperial majesty's machine works
might have been turned to a profitable account; there are many
other places in the mining districts where the same advantages
could be obtain-ed. A manufactory so conducted would soon ruin
any firm less wealthy than his majesty, for it produces compara
tively nothing — ^indeed, I might say less than nothing. Could
he count the cost which enables one of his generals of artillery
tc parade through these works two or three times in a month,
covered with decorations, the men drawn up in lines on each side,
cap in hand, and shouting as he passes " Drai-jelyu," I appre
hend his imperial majesty would indignantly dispense with the
show, which produces nothing else.
There are more than two thousand horses employed in trans
porting the ore from these mines to the smelting works. First it
is taken in small carts, with one horse in each, to Werohnayan

176 DISAPPOINTMENT. — THE CHOLSOUN CHAIN.
Pristan on the Irtisch, a distance of more than one hundred
versts; from here it is sent down the river in boats to Oust-
Kamenogorsk Pristan; thence it is again conveyed in carts to
Barnaoul, Pavlovsky, and other Zavods, making a distance of nine
hundred versts from the mines to the smelting works.
The first day after my arrival was devoted to the mines and the
neighborhood of Zirianovsky; the following day I proposed to
devote to sketching. My disappointment, therefore, was very
great when I heard the rain pouring down, and on going out in
the morning I observed that all the mountains were covered with
snow. The director told me that the snow would now remain on
all the higher elevations throughout the winter, and continue to
descend lower every time we had rain in the valleys. Still, he
considered the 4th of September very early for the mountains to
put on their winter garb. Later in the day it came on a tho
roughly pelting rain, with a strong wind whistling through the
broken squares in my windows, which made me think even this
room a palace in comparison with my rocky shelter on the Chol
soun. Next morning the weather was better ; the rain had ceased,
but the clouds were still rolling over the mountain tops. I watched
their movements with intense interest, and at last observed that
they began gradually to ascend. I now hurried my men to get
the horses ready, which w&s quickly done, when we started to the
ferry on the Bouohtarma. On arriving there I found that the
mountains to the west were free from clouds, while those over
the Cholsoun were evidently rolling away. I lost no time in
taking the view looking down the river, and before my sketch
was finished the northern part of the chain was clear. Here I
had a grand landscape, and set to work at it with a right good
will. Day was fast drawing to a close by the time I had finished,
and the southern part of the mountain was still a mystery.
Before we reached Zirianovsky the sky became suddenly
clouded, and a keen cutting wind was sweeping down from the
snowy summits of the mountains ; presently it poured with rain.
Riding through the street on my return, we were greeted with
the same canine concert that had welcomed our arrival. When
the shutters were closed over my broken windows, I felt quite
comfortable and happy as I heard the wind roar past. During
the evening my Cossack came in, and told me it was snowing

SUNSET ON THE MOUNTAINS. 177
fast This made me anxious, as I had now good reason to fear that
my artistic labors would soon be ended, if they were not already,
for this year, and this before I had reached the Irtisch. On
turning out this morning I found the ground frozen quite hard,
and the wind bitterly cold, with a clear sky and a prospect of a
warm sun. As this was the last day I could devote to sketching,
I lost no time in riding out on the road toward Narym, to the
point from whioh I purposed sketching Zirianovsky. Sitting
down under the shelter of some rocks, I began my occupation.
It was at first very cold, but as the sun rose it became warm and
agreeable, and I succeded in bringing back a vivid representa
tion of his imperial majesty's silver mines close to the Chinese
frontier. In the afternoon I rode to the westward ten or twelve
versts, whioh afforded me a fine view of the beautiful scenery on
and beyond the Bouohtarma River. The effect of this scene w s
magnificent ; as the sun was sinking immediately behind one of
the high conical mountains, I beheld the great fiery orb descend
nearly over the centre of this mighty cone, presenting a singular
appearanoe. Presently its long deep shadow crept over the lower
hills, and soon extended far into the plain, till at length the place
on whioh I stood received its cold gray tone. The mountains to
the right and left were still shining in his golden light, the
snowy peaks of the Cholsoun appearing like frosted silver cut out
against the deep blue sky. Gradually the shades of evening
crept up the mountain sides ; one bright spot after another van
ished, until at length all was in shadowy gray except the snowy
peaks. A3 the sun sunk lower, a pale rose tint spread over their
snowy mantles, deepening to a light crimson, and then a darker
tone, when the highest shone out, as sparkling as a ruby , and at
last, for only a few moments, it appeared like a crimson star.
When the exoitement of these magic changes was over, a cold
shiver came over me ; I jumped on to my horse, and started at a
gallop. My Cossack said the cold had frozen him ; but an hour's
hard ride put our blood into circulation till we reached our quar
ters, when sundry glasses of hot tea made me feel quite comfort
able. Late in the evening we had more rain ; but my sketching
was finished in this neighborhood, and I was now only anxious
about my future progress. The two following days were very
bad — all rain and sleet. The director urged me to remain, assur
ing me that some part of the country over which I ha I to pass
12

178 CHINESE FRONTIER.
was very elevated, and that sketching in sucb weather was im
possible. The morning of the third day being clear and sunny, with a
hard frost, at six o'clock we were on the road travelling in telagas.
The flrst eighty versts is over a very uninteresting country, chiefly
low hills destitute of timber. After passing through several vil
lages, the inhabitants of which appeared poor and miserable, we
reached a larger one — Moorzinsky — where I was assured that it
would be impossible to cross the mountains, as snow would be
then three or four feet deep. This did not prevent us making
the attempt, as we might have more snow in the night, and then
be stopped altogether. A few versts beyond this village we began
to ascend ; the mountains to the right rose up into a high ridge
covered with new snow, which descended far down toward the val
leys ; on our left were also snow-capped summits ; and now the
track turned over some high hills between these two. After tra
velling little more than an hour we began to ascend rapidly, and
soon reached the snow. It was not deep enough to stop us. By
four o'clock we were on the summit, and not far from a much
higher ridge called Mount Chesnooka (garlic). Beyond this, to
the eastward, were seen the high snowy peaks of the Cholsoun,
and directly south rose up the Kourt-Chume Mountains, which
form the Chinese frontier. I had been told that they appear like
a wall, and found them one continuous chain extending down to
the valley of the Irtisch, where they turn to the south, and run
toward Nor-Zaisan, with very few passes into the country beyond.
These mountains seem destined by Nature to be the boundary
between the two empires. They were covered with snow, and
at this time formed a complete barrier to our farther progress in
that direction.
Having spent a short time examining the country, we continued
our journey, and descended rapidly toward the south, reaching in
two hours Little Narym, a small outpost of Cossacks, stationed on
a plain, and within a few versts of the Chinese frontier. We
were now on the military road, which extends only about twenty
versts farther to the east, to the last outpost from Western Sibe
ria. A few versts, and our route would be to the westward, look
ing toward the land of my birth. A flne old Cossack provided
us vrith horses, two telagas, and Cossack drivers, who gallopped
off at full speed. We were now travelling parallel with the Kourt-

ANCIENT MONUMENTS. 179
Chume Mountains, and within flve versts of their base. They
are not thrown up into high peaks ; the outline is scarcely broken ;
but many offshoots project from the chain, falling very abruptly
into the valley, like buttresses propping up the higher mass.
The River Narym flows down this valley, and falls into the
Irtisch about sixty versts distant. Our Cossack drivers galhppod
along at a tremendous pace. The sun had set some time ; his
yellow tints had faded from the sky, and were succeeded by a
deep gray, on which the stars shone forth with great brilliancy.
It was a beautiful calm night, whieh made us feel we were in
another climate as we drove into Great Narym. They quartered
me in the house of the Cossack officer, and he told me that I
could not pass the frontier without an order from his superior,
who lived sixty versts distant. This was a great disappointment,
as it involved another long ride. I drank my tea in a clean warm
room, and determined to take things quietly, as it was utterly im
possible to proceed in the dark. I very soon tumbled down on a
wooden sofa, and slept as a tired man ought until flve o'clock the
next morning.
At six o'clock I left Narym, and rode up the valley about ten
versts, where I sketched two beautiful views — one of the Chinese
frontier and the valley of Narym, the other of the mountains to
the north, which are rugged and picturesque : they are granite
without any vegetation. To the north of Narym there are some
remarkable granite rocks rising out of the plain, without one
blade of grass growing upon them. These have once been held
in great veneration. Figures have been cut upon them by a race
of men of whom we have no record, or even a trace by which we
can ascertain either who they were or at what period they lived.
This is a most singular plaoe. In one of the small valleys there
are many pillars or blocks which have been forced up, and are
now standing in a mass of granite, which seems once to have been
liquid, that has flowed round their bases like lava.
Having examined the rocks and finished my sketches, I returned
and sketched another view of part of Great Narym, with some
Kirghis yourts in the foreground.
While I was engaged on this view, the officer sent a Cossack
to tell me that the colonel commanding the district would be at
Narym at twelve o'clock to inspect the men. I hastened to finish
my sketch, and returned, when I found the colonel inspecting the

180 GREAT NARYM.
Cossacks. As the officer had already informed him of my wish
to cross the frontier, I handed him my passport, after reading
which he said I could pass the frontier and sketch wherever I
wished, but that it was utterly impossible to go to Nor-Zaisan by
the route I proposed across the Kourt-Chume chain, as the snow
was so deep on the mountains that we should undoubtedly be lost
or frozen to death. He advised me to go through the Kirghis
Steppe, and proposed to forward me from one Cossack post to
another till I reaohed the fortress at Koohbouchta. I accepted
his offer, and arranged to meet him in Oust-Kamenogorsk. We
dined together; after dinner, he left on his journey of inspec
tion, and I returned to my sketching. All being settled to my
satisfaction, I determined to hasten as fast as possible to Weroh
nayan Pristan on the Irtisch, where orders had been sent to pro
vide me with a boat and men to descend the river, stopping when
and where I required.
Great Narym is a fort ; the inhabitants of the village are all
Cossacks, and a fine body of men they are. I saw a number of
chubby little fellows, who are destined to be the future guardians
of his imperial majesty's frontier, most probably far to the south
of this region. The country around this place is very pretty ;
the valley of the Narym supplies them with hay for their cattle
and horses; there are also abundant summer pastures, where
their herds feed in plenty. They grow wheat and rye on some
of the lower hills; the rivers supply them with abundance of
fish, and game is plentiful on the mountains ; vegetables, cucum
bers, melons, and watermelons of a superior quality are grown in
large quantities, and the bees produce plenty of excellent honey.
The Cossacks have the exclusive right to all fisheries in Nor-
Zaisan, the Irtisch, and other streams falling into it; besides
whioh, they can trade. Thus they are in good circumstances,
possessing comforts and various luxuries. Their dwellings are
clean and comfortable, and many of the men are wealthy. I have
known Cossacks who possessed five hundred horses. There are a
few Kirghis living in their yourts near Narym : they feed their
flocks and herds on the plains, and winter here.
We left Great Narym in the afternoon, going down the valley,
which is very pretty. After travelling about an hour we saw the
Irtisoh winding its course within the Chinese empire, at the foot
of the Kourt-Chume chain, whioh here returns directly south

DESCENT OF THE IRTISCH. 181
toward Nor-Zaisan. In the evening we entered the valley of the
Irtisch near the point where the Narym falls into it. The scenery
at this point is so exceedingly fine that I could not resist sketch
ing the view. The mountains on the opposite side of the Irtisoh
are also very picturesque and beautiful in color, varying from
deep orange, yellow, and red, to gray and the deepest purple.
This variety in tone is not caused by vegetation alone : red, gray,
and purple are the colors of the rocks ; and the orange, yellow,
and green are produced by mosses growing upon them. The
steppe at the foot of the mountains is burnt by the sun into a
deep brown, and the banks of the river are a bright green. Many
islands are dotted about in the Irtisoh, most of them covered with
willows ; but trees there are none. The river once formed the
boundary of the Russian empire : the opposite bank is the Kirghis
Steppe, which is gradually being absorbed.

CHAPTER XIV.
DESCENT OF THE IRTISCH.

I ARRIVED at Tsohinimschanka a little before dusk, and, after
consulting the Cossacks, decided on descending the river in canoes,
as by this arrangement I should reach Werohnayan Pristan before
daylight. Having drunk our tea, and feasted on rye bread and
honey, we started on our voyage down the Irtisoh in two canoes,
which I was assured would take us to Werohnayan Pristan in
five hours. I sat watching the daylight fade from the snowy
peaks of the Altai, and night envelope the hills and valleys be
neath, waiting with anxiety the rising of the moon, whioh was to
light me cn my watery way. Long before she penetrated the deej
valley that shrouded me in gloom, I marked her approach by th«
cold, silvery light shed on the snow-clad summits far above me.
At length a pale light was seen beyond the rocky peaks rising
high above the steppe, and presently the moon rose majestically
over these lofty crags, whioh cast their shadows far across the
steppe. Soon her rays shone forth on rock and flood with a soft
and dreamy effect. This was the signal for our departure ; we
seated ourselves in the canoes, the Cossacks plied their oars, and

182 WILD FOWL.
we glided smoothly down the stream. It was a calm and beauti
ful night, without even a breeze to ruffle the water ; there was
not a sound save the plashing of the oars : all nature seemed
asleep. Our course had hitherto been along the middle of the river,
passing on our way several small islands which divided it into
different streams. The Cossacks were resting on their oars; not
a sound was heard, when we glided into a narrow channel between
a long island and a thick bed of reeds. Our canoes had not
floated more than fifty yards, when one of the Cossacks struck
the reeds with his oar, and simultaneously they all gave a loud
shout. In a moment there came a shriek as if a legion of fiends
had been cast loose, which was followed by a rushing sound and
a flapping of wings on every side, rising high into mid air ; then
the wild concert was taken up and repeated far above us. We
had come suddenly on the covert of thousands of water-fowl. After
this uproar the Cossacks pulled out into the middle of the stream,
and passed quickly along through some beautiful scenery.
It was impossible for me to sleep in the midst of such scenes ;
they had a charm, or I ought to call it a fascination, which I
could not resist, and my eyes were continually strained, trying to
penetrate the deep gloom in the shade of the mountains.
A little after two o'clock we reaohed Werohnayan Pristan, when
our Cossacks roused up the officer, who ordered the somervar to
be prepared, and tea, as usual, was soon ready. I felt a deep
regret that our moonlight voyage was over — indeed, should have
been glad to have floated on until day dawned ; my companions,
however, were not artists, and were delighted when we landed.
Presently I lay down on a wooden bench, and soon became
equally oblivious of enchanting moonlight scenes and monster
concerts of the feathered tribe.
A beautiful and bright sunny morning followed our moonlight
voyage on the Irtisch. After breakfast the officer said he had
received instructions about me, and that everything I required
should be done.
Horses and men having been provided, I rode along the bank
of the river. After going a short distance in this direction we
crossed the steppe, cutting off a great bend in the Irtisch, and
xhis brought me to a part where I found much to interest me

A STRANGE BARK. 183
nnd to occupy my pencil ; I therefore spent several hours here,
after which I returaed to the pristan and sketched another view.
Wishing to proceed on my journey, I went to examine the
" bark" (sei it was named) that had been prepared to take my
party, now amounting to nine persons, including the boatman,
down the Irtisch. My surprise was great when 1 found that, in
place of a good sound boat, two small canoes had been lashed
together, flve feet apart, with bearers placed across, the whole
boarded over, giving a platform of flfteen feet by ten — plenty of
space certainly, and it looked well enough when lying on the
wharf, but I most decidedly objected to such a machine. At this
moment dinner was announced, and my host assured me that all
the necessary alterations would be completed by the time I had
dined. This is the place to which the silver ore is carted from
Zirianovsky ; and here it is loaded into boats, and sent down the
Irtisch ahout two hundred and twenty versts to Oust-Kameno
gorsk. The river runs very rapidly through narrow valleys and
deep gorges in the Altai till it reaches the Kirghis Steppe
below Oust-Kamenogorsk, where it spreads out into a large river,
studded with numerous islands great and small. A boat has gone
this distance in eleven hours, for on some parts of the river the
current runs at a fearful speed.
The baggage having been placed on board, and everything
made secure, my host accompanied me to the bark, which I found
nearly in the same state I had left it ; the only alteration that
had been attempted was the placing some broken boards on the
platform, both this officer and the workmen insisting that it was
perfectly safe. Making no farther objection, I stepped on board,
but was far from satisfied. I had no fault to find with the deck —
there was room enough and to spare — my fear was for the hulls
of our craft ; but, seeing that nothing was to be gained by delay,
good-by was said, a cheer given, and the bark east loose. A man
sat in the head and stern of each canoe — four strong, sturdy fel
lows they were, thoroughly acquainted with the river, and each
had a small paddle, a little larger than a child's garden spade ;
their only duties were to guide the craft; the stream would carry
us quickly enough. They received instructions before starting to
stop whenever I wished, and do everything I might require. The
bark was soon paddled into the middle of the river, which at this
plaoe is more than a thousand yards broad ; and once in the cur-

184 A NARROW ESCAPE.
rent, we floated rapidly along. I was watching the changes in
the scene as one mountain peak after another oame in view, when
suddenly, and without any previous intimation, two of the men
called out that their canoe was filling fast, and that they must
make for the shore without a minute's delay ! Before we got half
way to the bank she was nearly full of water, and when within
about a hundred yards the men cried out that she was sinking;
this brought our broad deck down to the water on one side, and
helped to fioat her. The men paddled with all their might, and
at last we reached a thick bed of reeds, which assisted in keeping
us afloat tUl we 'succeeded in getting near enough to the bank to
throw our luggage ashore, and then we landed.
I now ordered my servant to follow me back to the pristan,
where, after some trouble, I obtained a good boat, in which ore is
conveyed, with four men, although the director wished to convince
me that three were sufficient. Just as I was leaving him, a boy
came to inform us that two of the men were taken very ill from
being so long in the cold water, all four having got a thorough
ducking; and two of them were changed. I returned to the
unfortunate canoes, and on my way met people bringing the two
boatmen back in a telaga. Knowing it would be some time before
the boat arrived, I took my sketching traps, and ascended the
bank to some magnificent rocks, from whioh I got an excellent
view looking up the valley, taking in part of the steppe and the
Kourt-Chume chain. In about two hours I saw the boat floating
down the river ; it reached the place of our misfortune before me ;
and on my arrival the men had got all the baggage on board, and
were ready to go. The Cossack told me one of the boatmen had
run away immediately the baggage had been placed in the boat,
and could not be found : this vexed me much. Several people
had followed from the village to see the wreck of our craft, and
were standing around enjoying our disappointment. I called the
Cossack ashore, having previously made my selection from the
group looking on, who, I had learned, had favored the fugitive's
escape. So soon as the Cossack oame up to me, I laid hold of
the man ; the matter was understood in an instant ; the Cossaok
seized him, and before he recovered from his surprise we had him
in the boat, and pushed off into deep water. He now bellowed
out to his friends to aid him ; they ran down the bank, but we
were beyond their reach ; they, however, called out furiously to

SOLITARY RAMBLE. 185
have him put ashore. Finding that we could not be intimidated,
two of them went a short distance into the reeds, and brought out
the missing man, offering him in exchange. To this I immedi
ately consented, taking good care, however, to secure one before
giving up the other. This arrangement satisfied all parties except
the deserter, whom my Cossaok promised a sound drabbing if he
made another attempt at escape.
We had been much delayed by these proceedings ; the sun had
s^nk below the distant hills, and there was no plaoe in whioh to
put our heads for many versts, nor wood for a fire. The upper
mountains were covered with snow, and now a keen, cutting wind
began to blow up the river, which made us all shiver. As we
floated on, the shades of night began creeping fast over the valley,
gradually ascending up the mountain sides. There were no signs
of any resting-place, and the scenery was beooming more and more
gloomy. We now tumed a high, rocky point, and beheld at a
great distance a light glimmering ; but whether this was a fire on
the bank of the river, or in a dwelling, it was impossible to
determine. Our boatmen plied their oars with a right good will,
which sent us on fast, and as we came nearer we observed that
the fire was in some covered place, which we very soon reached.
It proved to be a wretched station for a few Cossacks, and on
entering it I found the poor fellows cooking their suppers in a most
filthy room. My Cossack quickly arranged with them, and they
turned out into a shed.
Asia is the land for tea ; it is there a man learns to appreciate
the herb at its full and proper value. After drinking mine, I took
a long walk alone on the bank of the Irtisch. The scenery on
tnis part of the river is very beautiful, and was here seen with a
peculiar effect under the influence of a splendid moonlight, which
cast the lower mountains into deep shade, while the higher snowy
summits were tipped with silvery light, giving a more intense
gloom to the deep valleys. How infinitely small the sight of these
mighty masses made me feel, as I wandered on in my solitary
ramble! Excepting myself, I could not see one living thing; all
was silent as the grave. I had passed some high rocks that shut
out the Cossack post from my view, and had entered a valley,
running up into the mountains, which lay shrouded in dusky
shadow. Two white peaks rose far into the cold gray sky, the
full light of the moon shining upon one of them and aiding muoh

186 COSSACKS.
in giving a most solemn grandeur to the gloomy scene. Fancy
began to people this plaoe with phantoms, ghosts, and goblins of
horrible aspect. It required but the howling of the wolves, and
the shrieks I had heard last night, to give a seeming reality to
the creations of the imagination.
I found on my return that the Cossacks had spread some dried
fern for my bed, which looked quite inviting, notwithstanding that
there were hundreds of Prussacks (a small kind of cockroach)
creeping on the walls and roof. I had scarcely lain down when
I fell fast asleep, nor did I once wake until morning. Soon as I
left my leafy couch, I went out, and saw the sun rise in splendor;
but, with all the glory shed over the scenes around me, there was
a certain indication which convinced me that we should have wet
coats before midday. I lost no time in sketching the views that
had so muoh interested me at this plaoe. On both sides of the
river the mountains are very picturesque, with ragged crags of
granite crowned by high snowy peaks, and a steppe at their base,
through which the river runs between low banks thickly fringed
with reeds and bulrushes, having a considerable breadth, with
three small islands overgrown with willows. Among these reeds
therewere hundreds of wild ducks and other water-fowl ; some
of a delicious flavor, as I afterward found when tbey were served
up at dinner.
In the forenoon we left these generous Cossacks and their
miserable dwelling. They assured me that I should have very bad
weather, and wished me to remain ; but I was obliged to go on.
The boat was pushed out into the current, that floated us along
at great speed, and soon carried us beyond some bold rooky masses,
whioh shut out of sight the smoke at the Cossack post, and
opened a view into new scenes. As we expected, the change in
the weather was near; the wind rushed down from the mountains
in gusts; dark clouds began collecting on their sumraits, and
everything indicated a furious storm. Our boatmen watched
these signs with some anxiety, as they knew what was coming,
and plied their oars vigorously, hoping tc reach a more sheltered
part of the river.
Every few minutes the clouds gathered blacker, covering up
the white summits, and descended the mountain sides, affording
me a fine study of a mountain storm. Broken masses were driven
rapidly along; and now a dense body of surging vapor spread ove

A.\CIENT TUMULI. 187
the valley. Presently we heard the howling of the wind as it
rushed through the mountain gorges, and soon it swept up the
river, chilling us with its cold and icy blast. The wind was dead
against us, and it required all the power of the boatmen to force
the little craft through the water. Already snow was falling fast
in the mountains, which soon reached us in rain and sleet, and in
a very short time penetrated through our clothing to the skin,
giving us a most unpleasant shower-bath. Unfortunately, we
had reached a part of the river where it ran through a broad
valley, in which there was not the least shelter for us. On the
Kirghis side of the stream we beheld several yourts about a mile
away, and near them twelve camels were feeding. I thought this
rather strange, not expecting to find these animals in so cold a
region ; but they would soon move into the warmer valleys of the
south : winter had come very early upon them.
It was long past midday when we arrived at the mouth of the
River Bouohtarma, now a broad and rapid stream, greatly increased
by the numerous small rivers which fall into it between this plaoe
and the ferry near Zirianovsky. The town and fortress, whioh
take their name from the Bouohtarma, stand on the banks of the
river, about three versts above its confluence with the Irtisoh.
Formerly the place was of much more importance than at pre
sent. The town has several large buildings, which give it rather
an imposing appearance in this wild region. The mountain chains
to the north are very high, and some of the lower ranges are well
wooded. The steppe or valley around Bouohtarma is of consider
able extent, and affords good pasture for large herds of horses and
cattle. On the northwest side of the town there is a conical
mount, quite peculiar in its form, and exceedingly picturesque,
and in the neighborhood are raany ancient tumuli : some have
been opened, when gold and warlike implements were found in
them. I have in my possession part of a copper knife or dagger
dug out of one of these mounds. When it was discovered the
Cossacks thought it was gold, and cut it in two. This instrument
must have been made at a very early period.
I wished to ascend the River Bouohtarma to the town, but my
men declared that it was utterly impossible to take the boat up,
the water being too high. Under these circumstances, we were
compelled to continue the voyage down the Irtisoh, muoh again.st
our wish in such weather. A little below the mouth of the Bouch-

188 MISERABLE LODGINGS.
tarma commences the finest scenery on the Irtisoh. One of the
first objects seen is a fine, bold raass of black rook, which we had
some difficulty in passing, as the wind and current drove us
toward it with fearful rapidity, placing us in a dangerous posi
tion. Had we succeeded in bringing the frail bark to this plaoe,
nothing could have saved us, the water rushing against these
rocks with terrible rapidity, and the gale rendering it tenfold
more dangerous : the bark would have gone to pieoes the moment
it touched the rocks ; nor do I think any man oould swim out of
such a boiling fiood. The rain and sleet still poured down, shut
ting out of view the mountains on both sides. At length smoke
was seen in the distance, and the men strained every nerve to row
us on against the furious blast. In a short time we got under a
high shore, which gave us some little shelter, and enabled the
rowers to pull more rapidly. About three o'clock we reached
Bouloshnia, the first winter station on the Irtisch, where the cara
vans rest when conveying the ore on the ioe from Zirianovsky to
Oust-Kamenogorsk. Rapid as this river is, it is entirely frozen
in the winter from November till March.
Our boat was stopped at the foot of a steep bank, when we
jumped ashore, delighted with the sight of smoke. On gaining
the top I observed a very small wooden hut, with a shed at the
back, a most unpromising place for a night's lodging. We deter
mined, however, to remain ; for even a shed with a little straw
would be better than an open boat, or the shore where no wood
could be got to kindle a fire on such a night. There was not a
man among us who was not completely saturated. Without going
to the hut to make any inquiry, the Cossack ordered all the bag
gage up. We then entered the little building, and a most mise
rable place I found it. There was a room about fifteen feet by
twelve, in which were sitting five men, two women, and three
children. The two small windows were closed in with calico, ren
dering the place particularly gloomy ; the water was dripping in
from the flat roof, and there was scarcely a dry spot on the floor.
It is only those who have been in such an apartment full of peo
ple, with their wet clothing steaming from the heat of a Russian
stove, that can fully appreciate the odor whioh greeted the olfac
tory nerves on entering. Even my Cossack turned his head to
the door for a moment. He then spoke with one of the women,
who instantly opened a small low door, and led the way into an-

WRETCHED WOMEN AND CHILDREN. 189
other room, we following. This little chamber was twelve feet by
five, with a Russian stove takiug up more than one-third of the
space. At the other end there was a small window covered with
calico; here also the rain was dropping fast. A wooden bench
was secured along the side, and made wider at one end, evidently
intended as a couch. Had there been a forest near, we oould
soon have rigged up a balagan, which would have kept the wet
off, and a large fire would have made us comfortable. The Cos
sack ordered wood to be brought, and the stove was soon lighted.
This made the little den look cheerful when compared with the
one adjoining, which now, in addition to its own inmates, con
tained all our people.
The roaring of the wind as it raged in the deep valley, and the
pattering of the rain, had a great tendency to reconcile me to
every discomfort. Every ten minutes or quarter of an hour I
went out, first to take in fresh air, and then to see if the storm
was clearing off. All was black above, the rain pouring down,
and the wind roaring with increased fury; and the people said it
would be worse in the night. I now ordered the stove to be
opened in the larger room, and a fire lighted. This would at
least ventilate the place ;' and I shortly perceived the benefit it
produced. Had the stove continued closed, the place would soon
have been as bad as the Black Hole in Calcutta. The men
seemed strong, hardy fellows ; their occupation was out of doors,
where they had plenty of exercise and pure air ; but the women
were indeed miserable beings : one had scarcely a rag to her back ;
what little covering she could boast of was tied round her waist
with a piece of twisted hemp. The other had a sirailar costume,
with the addition of a very ragged sarafan. Each had a blue
handkerchief tied on the head, but shoes and stockings they had
none. Their faces were dingy and careworn, with squalid misery
stamped on every feature. The two children had a few dirty
rags fastened on them somehow or other. One was about four
years old, thin and emaciated ; its little faoe already bore the
marks of ill usage and sorrow. The other was rather more than two
years old, somewhat chubby, very dirty, and exceedingly sallow.
The sight of these poor creatures made an impression on my mind
that I have not to this day forgotten. That we may have many
scenes of destitution and misery in our own land I am well aware,
but the worst den in the vilest lodging-house that may be seen

190 A SIBERIAN HUT.
among us could not equal this. They were peasants employed in
conveying the ores from whioh so large a revenue to the Russian
empire is obtained. I recommend their condition to the authori
ties in the Altai.
The people were quite right in their opinions about the weather,
for the storm raged with unabated fury, at times making the little
hut shake to its foundations; nevertheless, it must have stood
many a heavy blast, as they are frequent in this region, more
especially so at this season. This hovel was built with trees,
halved together at eaoh end, with moss put in between to keep
out the wind, having a flat roof of squared timber, with about
six inches of earth spread over, on which grass and plants soon
grow, usually sufficient security against wet, but this day the rain
was tremendous. In winter the roof has a deep covering of snow,
which makes it very warm. A few stones had been piled up for
a chimney, and an old cask placed on the top, secured to the
stones with twisted willows. There was a little shed at the back,
and a wicker fence round the small yard, in which the cattle are
seoured in the night to protect them from the wolves, that are
numerous here in the winter.
Such were my quarters on the Irtisch during part of a fright
ful day and night ; but, bad as they were, every man of the party,
I believe, felt thankful for even this shelter when he heard the
wind howling up the valley. Night came on dark and dismal ;
it was impossible to keep a candle burning, for either a large drop
would fall upon it, or a strong puff through one of the many
chinks put it out in a moment. After many vain efforts and
much sputtering of the candle, I gave in and lay down on the
wooden bench, wrapped in a coat and cloak. I had already driven
two sticks into a joint between the timbers about two feet six
inches apart, and had hung a towel over them to keep the heavy
drops off my face. In this position, hour after hour passed in
listening to the shrieking of the tempest music. At length Mor
pheus got the better of me : I slept, and that most soundly, till
daylight next morning, when I went out and found it snowing
fast, but with very little wind. During the morning the snow
ceased falling and the clouds cleared off; this induced me to wan
der up the valley, accompanied by two men. A walk of about
three quarters of an hour brought me to the point from whioh I

PURIOUS CONICAL MOUNT. 191
intended to sketch a view looking down the valley toward some
fine mountain peaks, that rise up majestically above the river.
The scenery on this part of the Irtisch is particularly fine;
some of the ravines ranning up into the mountains have an ex
ceedingly savage character. Tremendous precipices rent by deep
chasms, and huge masses of rock hurled down from some of the
higher peaks, prove that water has not been the agent that has
caused these terrible disruptions. In one place I found the moun
tain rent asunder : the chasm is not mbre than thirty feet wide,
and not less than eight hundred feet in height ; some parts are
even higher, the sides being almost perpendicular, and would fit
into each other could they be brought together. Time has toppled
many of the crag-built peaks into this abyss.
A little farther up the valley there is a curious conical mount,
broken into precipices, with small cedars and young picta-trees
growing on every terrace — some also on its summit. To the
north it is exceedingly abrupt, and around this cone the moun
tains are riven into ragged peaks, with enormous precipices. In
one of these ravines I found some beautiful specimens of jasper,
and deeply regret that the weather prevented my exploring more
of these mighty gorges.
While making a drawing the men called my attention to a
storm coming over the mountains to the westward, which they
said would be very bad, advising me to retura and take shelter
in the hut as quickly as possible. I had determined to finish
this sketch, or, at all events, work until the rain or snow should
drive me baek to the little den. I occasionally took a glance
toward the clouds, apparently advancing fast, and looking dread
fully black and angry. After sketching somewhat more than an
hour, and congratulating myself with the hope that ten minutes
more would finish all I required — the interest I took in my labor
having prevented me casting a look up the valley for some time
past — ^my cap was torn from my head, and my sketch-book blown
ten or fifteen paces away. The blast was so sudden that I felt
quite confused; this feeling, however, was of short duration, for
the snow and rain came down so thickly that it roused me into
action. I sprang after and secured my sketch-book, while the
men were ranning for my cap, whioh I expected would reach the
Irtisch before them : I succeeded in placing my drawing materials
in their leathern case as the men returned with my cap. One of

192 SCENERY OF THE IRTI.SCH.
them strapped my bag on his shoulders, and, while doing so,
assured me that the storm would soon be worse. Our position
was a very bad one — high up in the hills, without anything to
afford the smallest shelter. The two men thought example would
do better than precept, so started off, running as fast as possible
down into the valley. I followed, but our race was short. The
snow and rain fell so thick it almost blinded us, besides which we
could not ran against the tempest : it was even difficult to force
ourselves on edgeways. I now found, to my cost, that the men
knew very well what was in store when they first advised a
retreat — I had got a wet jacket as well as my sketch. This
was certainly a disagreeable walk, for we did not reach the hut
till past midday. In about on hour the storm cleared off, the
baggage was packed into the boat, and we left this wretched spot.
The river here runs through a deep channel along the foot of
very abrapt mountains, in some parts rising to an enormous height
above the water, and are so nearly perpendicular that nothing
could climb them. There are many parts where it is impossible
to land on either side, and tho water rushes on between the rocks
at a great speed. Some of those we passed are jasper of a dark
reddish-brown, others are of a deep purple, contrasting beauti
fully with the yellow and green moss growing among them. The
summit of one mountain was of a rich pink color, whieh had a
fine effect. Lower down the rocks were gray and mossy, while
beneath were some fine bold masses of red granite, rising perpen
dicular from the water. In this part of the valley there is no
timber; near some of the summits a few diminutive picta-trees
only are growing from the cliffs ; nor has it yet been found to
possess any mineral wealth. The scenery of the Rhine, however,
is very small and tame compared with that of the Irtisch. Had
the race who inhabited these regions, like the Rhenish barons,
built castles on the precipices, they might have added much to the
interest of the landscape, but without improving its grandeur.
This was a day of sunshine and squalls; nevertheless, I suc
ceeded in making several sketches ; but it was not till long after
dark that we saw the light of Tulovskoi Simovee, the second win
ter station on the Irtisch. As we approached we discerned lights
streaming from two little windows, which guided us into the
mouth of a small river falling into the Irtisch. A cold blast had
been rushing down the ravines as we rowed along, and heavy

MISERABLE GROUP. 193
black clouds were rolling over the sky, making it so dark that we
eould scarcely see to land. The moment we got ashore, the Cos
sack ordered the baggage up to the house, which we could see by
the lights stood at a little distance on a high bank above us. Our
men had shouted very loud, in the hope of bringing some person
to aid us with a light ; but we were obliged to grope our way up
in the dark without assistance. After stumbling about among
blocks of stone, we at length found the door, and entered a room
about fifteen feet square, where a large fire was blazing in the
stove, throwing a strong light on the inmates and the dirt. In a
few minutes my eyes got accustomed to the light, and then I
began to examine the group standing before me. This consisted
of four women, three children, and eight men — fifteen persons in
all — much too many for the space ; but when my party of nine
entered, the chamber was literally filled. To remain the night in
such a room was out of the question ; come rain, come wind, I
determined to seek my rest in our open boat.
While my evening .meal was preparing I had time to examine
each individual and the room in which we were located. The
stove stood in one corner, with a bright blazing fire, to which,
since we entered, logs of wood had been added to give warmth
and ventilation. It would require a far abler pen than mine to
describe this scene of filth and misery. The floor was thickly
covered with wet grass, that had been trodden for weeks, and from
which came an effluvium mixed up with various noxious exhala^
tions, rendering the place almost unbearable, even with such a
wind as was now blowing. To make me more comfortable, and the
floor clean about me, one of the women brought in a large armful
of wet grass, and spread it under my feet. A bench ran round
the room, on whioh the inmates sat and slept; some had their beds
on the top of the stove ; and the berth was offered to me, being
dry and warm ; but I was obliged to decline this act of kindness.
The walls and ceiling were black from the smoke of the stove, that
was constantly sending a puff into the room whenever a gust of
wind rushed down the chimney. Two of the women were strong,
sturdy jades, who had just reached this miserable abode; the other
two were poor, emaciated creatures, sallow and sickly, and look
ing old, although, in reality, quite young. One of the children, a
little girl of about five years of age, was almost a skeleton : her
countenance bore the marks both of pain and sorrow ; the other
13

194 DISRUPTIONS.
two were younger, with scarcely a rag to cover their squalidness.
Two of the men appeared ill, half starved, and borne down with
sickness and care. The others were boatmen in ruddy health,
whose stay here was only temporary. They had not yet suffered
from the foul air of the room ; and their occupation, and the
fresh breezes on the Irtisch, keep them in health.
Having got thoroughly warm, I went down to the boat ; some
wet grass had been spread at the bottom, over which a "voilock"
(felt made of camel's hair) was laid for my bed. I pulled on a
pair of fur boots and a warm cap, wrapped my cloak around me,
and lay down to sleep. The wind was cold, but it was now clear
and starlight. The Cossack slept in the boat, and the other men
remained in the hut. Fatigue will make a man sleep anywhere ;
and I was soon in the land of dreams, being quietly rocked in the
boat by the surging waters of the Irtisch. I was awakened long
before daylight with cold; the moon was shining brightly, and
all around me was covered with white frost. I rolled myself up
again, and slept till morning, when I got up, jumped ashore, and
moved about rapidly till I became warm. Shortly after this the
boatmen turned out, and, coming down to the shore, made a fire
and prepared their breakfast. It was now time to look after my
people. I repaired to the hut, and found the Cossack preparing
the somervar. On opening the door of the room, all seemed fast
asleep ; and so in fact they were, bad as was the place, and diffi
cult as it was to breathe in. I closed the door, for I felt quite
sick. After breakfasting on shore near the boatmen, I sketched
the plaee, then stepped into the boat and departed.
The aspect of the country below Tulovskoi Simovee, through
which the river runs, is greatly changed from the district we
passed yesterday. In plaoe of magnificent mountains, rounded
hills appear of no great elevation ; neither trees, nor even a shrub,
grow on them, but they are covered with a short mossy turf.
The rocks forming the banks of the river are often varied, even
in the space of a few hundred yards, and great disraptions have
taken place all along this valley. The strata have been broken
and twisted about in singular contortions, affording a splendid
study for the geologist. During this day's voyage there was little
to interest an artist, especially after the grand scenery higher up
the river. The Irtisch has extended very much in width ; it has
worked out a much broader channel as it approaches the steppe,

CROSS THE IRTISCH. 195
and runs more sluggishly ; this and a dead wind against us, often
blowing with great fury, delayed us, and it was not till evening
we landed at Oust-Kamenogorsk, when we went straight to the
house of the director of the pristan. The silver ore from Zirian
ovsky is landed here, and then forwarded in small carts to Bar
naoul, and other smelting Zavods six hundred versts distant.
What with unloading the ore from the boats, weighing/- and load
ing the carts for their distant journey, this is a very busy scene.
The men in charge of the caravans are held responsible for every
pood of ore they take ; and it is carefully weighed on their arrival
at the Zavods. There are near three thousand horses employed
in transporting the ore. Instructions about me had been sent to
the director here, and, as usual, I was received with kindness,
and treated with great hospitality. A clean and comfortable
room added muoh to my comfort. By the time I had changed
my wet clothing, a good dinner was placed on the table, to whioh
I did ample justice. Then I heard that, two days before, the
colonel commanding the Cossacks in this region had called upon
the director to inquire for me, and desired to be informed the
moment I arrived.
The following morning I waited upon the colonel, who received
me with great cordiality, and said, if I still wished to continue
my journey into the steppe, I could do so, for the Cossacks would
escort me from station to station ; but he greatly feared the season
was too far advanced for me to sketch much before the winter set
in. He was also apprehensive that I should find some difficulty,
as all the Kirghis would be gone southward.

CHAPTER XV.
THE KIRGHIS STEPPE.

At two o'clock the next day the colonel sent two Cossacks to
inform me that the escort was ready, and they had instructions to
take me across the Irtisch. On arriving at the opposite bank, I
found two sturdy-looking Cossacks mounted, and armed with
sabre, musket, pistol, and a long lance, presenting a formidable
appearanoe. There was also a Cossaok driver wilhout arms, and

196 kirghis' tombs.
three horses in a small light telaga. These, with my own Cossack
from Barnaoul, and my own arms, were quite sufficient for our
defence against ten times the number of Kirghis, should they
venture to attack us to keep up their reputation for plundering.
A level plain extends from the Irtisch about eight versts to the
first range of hills, which we ascended, and then a new scene
was presented to our view : high granite rocks, broken into curious
and picturesque forms ; in many parts mounds, or, rather, they
might be called hills of quartz, sparkling like snow in the sun.
There were also a great number of Kirghis' tombs, apparently
very aneient, as the present race only sink a shallow grave, cover
up the body with earth, and throw a few small blocks of stone
over it.
These tombs are all built of rough stone, consisting of a base
ment sometimes ten or twelve feet square, and eight feet high, on
the top of which rises a small pyramid. There are many others
around them much less in dimensions, which induced me to sup
pose that a chief and part of his tribe had been buried within
each group of sepulchres. Beyond them to the westward the
Monastery Jlountain was seen looming over the steppe at a dis
tance of thirty or forty versts. The track along which we tra
velled was very bad, and the telaga constantly bounded over rough
blocks of granite. In about two hours we reached a Cossack
picket ; in ten minutes a new escort was mounted, and the telaga
at the door, our baggage packed in, and away we went at full
gallop over a smooth steppe. We were now ascending a high
ridge, and shortly entered a pass in a granite mountain quite des
titute of herbage, scarcely a blade of grass being to be seen
among the rooks. The road ascended considerably during the
last three or four versts, after whioh we began to descend into a
most singular place. Our track was along what appeared to have
been the margin of a crater, the granite blocks and fissures all
radiating from the centre. A little farther on we passed over a
part whioh had every appearance of having been forced out of
th3 crater in a liquid state, flowing down a slight declivity, and
cooling before it reached the bottom. There are numerous waves
or beds of this, each stopping several yards from the edge of the
one beneath, leaving scarcely a doubt on my mind that this
granite had once run down like lava or molten metal. Our way

kirohis.

197

was up a ravine for some distance, and then we began a difficult
descent to the steppe.
As we proceeded farther to the south the country became less
interesting, made up of rounded hills and undulating sterile
country. After travelling a little more than two hours we arrived
at Skpriesk (gold mine) close to our track, and stopped to look at
the works ; I accepted the invitation of the director to stay the
night; a yourt was placed in front of his little dwelling, and din
ner almost immediately placed on the table. On mentioning my
wish to visit Nor-Zaisan, he proposed to give me horses and Kir
ghis guides to cross the mountains, as it was only a two days'
journey by this route. After dinner he sent to an encampment
not far distant for two Kirghis to act as my guides, and on their
arrival the matter was explained to them, when both exclaimed
that it was impossible to proceed by the mountains, the snow at
this season being so deep. The only way I could go, I was told,
was round by the steppe, which would be a five days' journey on
horseback. Nothing my host could say would induce the two Kirghis to
attempt the joumey over the mountains. By their appearance I

SIBCUSSUfO XHE JOURNEY TO NOR-ZAISAN.

should think fear was not one of their failings, for they had tho
rough bandit countenances, which spoke intelligibly what they

198 SIBERIAN bubble.
would do on the first favorable opportunity. My host was a well-
informed man, and a perfect gentleman, who had been banished
into Siberia from his native land ; he had spent some years in the
University at Kief, and, like many others of his countrymen, was
more devoted to the sword than the pen. I sincerely hope, before
this, he has been permitted to return to his native Poland. We
walked along the course of the little brook, where excavations
were being made, in the expectation of finding a rich bed of the
precious ore; but, like hundreds of others, it proved delusive.
The discoverei of this mine arrived in St. Petersburg, carrying
in his pocket samples of gold declared to have been found on this
spot, and produced a statement showing how many zalotnicks of
the precious metal could be got from a hundred poods of sand ;
also describing the extent over which this valuable deposit was
spread. The bait was too tempting to be resisted, numbers being
anxious to possess shares in a mine that was to produce so much
wealth. The subscriptions were paid willingly, and the man re
turned to Siberia with more than one hundred thousand rubles
in his pocket, to be divided araong his accomplices. The poor
exile was offered the directorship of these mines, and for a mere
existence was induced to banish himself still farther from men.
It was to obtain bread, which his own exhausted funds would
barely provide. He had been sent to this place, where gold was
said to be lying in such quantities, more than eighteen months
before my visit, up to which time not a single pound of the ore
had been found. Shortly after I left, legal proceedings were
commenced against him by merchants in Siberia, who had sup
plied goods for this company by his order. It redounds to the
credit of two of the highest authorities of Siberia that, when
these circumstances became known to them, a stop was put to
proceedings which would soon have deprived him of his liberty
even in his exile. Since then we have met far from this pre
tended gold mine, in Oriental Siberia, where I fortunately was
able to return his kindness.
I spent the afternoon and night with this gentleman, who leads
a most solitary life here, his only neighbor living at another gold
mine thirty-five versts distant. The Cossack picket is within
three versts of his house, but there is no officer — only eight men.
He related to me accounts of several great " barantas" whioh had
taken place in his neighborhood, such bands of robbers being very

A BARANTA. 199
numerous, and they carry on their depredations with most daring
audacity. About two months before my arrival a tribe of Kirghis were
living in one of the valleys to the eastward, near Irtisch; and one
day, while watching the horses at a considerable distance from the
aoul, some of them perceived several horsemen reconnoitring the
country from one of the high ridges. This roused their suspicions,
and induced them to drive their horses toward the encampment
earlier in the evening, and communicate to the tribe what they had
seen. A council was held by the chief, when it was decided that
a vigilant watch should be kept up through the night, and that
proper arrangements should be prepared to defend their dwellings.
Scouts were sent out in the direction where the men had been
seen, but they returned without perceiving any one. The night
was dark, and the watch was set; each man, having something to
lose, kept a strict guard over the property. Some time after mid
night the dogs became uneasy, and were frequently heard to bark,
but this was attributed to the wolves, as the men could not hear a
sound even by laying their ears to the ground. The barking of
the dogs became more frequent, and consequently the men more
Watchful ; soon a distant tramp of horses was heard approaching
slowly, but nothing could be seen through the gloom. At length
the barking of the dogs became so furious that all in the aoul
were roused up and made aware of the danger.
Presently indistinct objects could be seen approaching; the
Kirghis sprang on their horses, with battle-axes in hand, to defend
their homes and their property. They were scarcely prepared
when the bandits made a charge into the encampment; both
parties fought with desperation, and several were struck down on
each side. While this was going on, shrieks were heard among
the women and children, another party having rushed in from the
opposite side, and were driving off both horses and camels. Day
broke, and saw this little community despoiled by the plunderer,
and four of its inhabitants murdered; two women and three
children had been carried off by the robbers, with near three
hundred horses and forty-two camels, while several of the men
and two women were wounded. But the plunderers had not
escaped ; five of their number were left on the field, three dead,
and two dangerously wounded; these also died in the course of
the following day. It was supposed the aoul had been attacked

200 kolmack-tologuy.
by a party of about fifty. These people are in continual warfare,
and their robberies are often on a much greater scale. During
the evening a gale of wind sprang up, which shook the little
dwelling to its foundation, and sounded vastly like winter, which,
I feared, was coming apace.
At seven o'clock this morning 1 left my kind host. The road
for more than forty versts is of the same uninteresting description
— rounded hills with short grass ; in some of the ravines a few
stunted birches were growing. After this we ascended a small
chain of mountains which runs toward Nor-Zaisan ; one summit
has a very peculiar form, fike a monk's head, with his shaven
crown, the rocks bristling out on the sides forming his hoary locks.
It rises far above all other parts of the chain, is seen from a long
distance across the steppe, and is named Kolmack-Tologuy. The
Kirghis have a curious tradition about this mount. Having
reached the top of the crest, over which the road passes, we had
the vast extent of steppe spread out before us. The view was
magnificent. A small chain of high granite rocks runs to the
westward ; to the south appeared one interminable plain : there
was neither town nor any other object by which one could
measure its magnitude. I sketched this scene while the sun was
sinking fast below the western chain, covering the sky with a
most vivid golden yellow. The mountains were purple and
misty, casting their shadows far over the plain. A streak of
deep purple passed aoross the steppe, in whioh a small lake was
sparkling like burnished gold, while nearer and beneath the
steppe was undefined in gloom. The stony looks and shaven
crown of Tologuy were lighted up with a golden hue, and the
foreground on whioh I stood, with its broken rocks of reddish
porphyry, and the browned and burned up grass, were tinged
with a deep orange, making a splendid picture. Having finished
my sketch, we descended rapidly into the plain, over which we
gallopped at a furious speed, and arrived at Koch-bouchta about
an hour after dark.
It is said by the Kirghis that the steppes about Nor-Zaisan
were oocupied ages ago by a very great and ancient people, about
whom they give the following tradition. At this extremely remote
period — which I may perhaps be allowed to call the mythological
period — two mountains, the one called Kolmack-Tologuy and the
other Sarte-Tologuy, stood in the Tarbogatai chain ; and two

A KIRGHIS TRADITION. 201
heroes or giants, father and son, engaged to carry Kolmack-Tolo
guy to the rooky shores of the Irtisch, and place it on the plain
where the town and fortress of Oust-Kamenogorsk are built, for
the purpose of damming up the river. At a certain distance
from the Karagol Mountains the heroes were to pass the night.
Having put down their load, the son asked the father permission
to go and visit his bride, who dwelt on the broad steppes extend
ing along the shores of Nor-Zaisan. " Remember," said the father,
" that the kalim is not paid, and that you cannot stay with her
in the right of a husband " The son proceeded to the aoul of
his bride, but was so charmed with her beauty that he forgot his
father's strict injunctions, and remained till sunrise, when the
stem old man, growing impatient of his son's delay, had already
raised his side of the mountain. On resuming his labor, the
young giant found, notwithstanding all his efforts, that he was
utterly unable to move his portion of the load. Enraged by this
proof that his injunctions had been disobeyed, the old man ordered
him to place himself under the mountain, when he remorselessly
let go his hold, and the enormous mass fell, crushing both.
The mother anxiously awaited the return of her husband and
son. At length, tormented by painful uncertainty about their
fate, and feeling a presentiment that some misfortune had be
fallen them, she determined to follow on their track. She at last
recognised the mountain, now the monument under which her
husband and son lay buried. The bereaved widow and mother
sobbed bitterly, absolutely, according to the best authorities, shed
ding tears of blood. She mourned her loss for a long while, and
would not be comforted. Finally the blood-drops ran dry, and
when she wept again her tears were pure and transparent as a
spring. The rooks were the silent witnesses of her misery, and
have preserved the proofs of her sorrow and devotion, the tears
of blood and drops of crystal having become petrified and trans
formed into layers of argil and quartz, which can be distinguished
from a great distance by the color of red and white. This moun
tain of quartz is about five versts south from Kolmack-Tologuy.
It is named by the Kirghis Ac-Tas, or white stone, and is held
by them in great veneration.
Kolmack-Tologuy is seen from a great distance, and is easily
known from all other mountains by its peculiar craggy sides and
arched summit. On its smooth dome figures of men and of dif-

202 STEPPE ON FIRE.
ferent animals have been sculptured by the Kalmucks ages ago.
Solitary or Sarte-Tologuy stands in its original position on the
northwest slope of the Tarbogatai, within the frontiers of China.
This tradition is most faithfully believed by the Kirghis ; indeed,-
it would be dangerous in some places to express any doubt about
its truth, or attempt to ridicule the narrator.
I was up at dawn of day, and went to a new fort, which is not
yet completed. Sitting down on a plank, I looked toward the
east, and in a very few minutes the sun rose majestically, as if
from the sea. My ride to-day would be directly toward the point
whence I saw the sun rise. Having retumed to my quarters to
breakfast, my host, who has the charge of the Kirghis, told me the
horses were already arrived to take me to Nor-Zaisan. At twelve
o'clock all was prepared, and we started with six Cossacks besides
the Siberian Cossack, and twelve horses. There was a fine turf
on the steppe, which enabled us to go on rapidly. We soon passed
the low hills to the south of Kooh-bouohta, and then entered on
the great steppe, which extends down to Nor-Zaisan on the east,
and to the Tarbogatai Mountains on the south. There are many
undulations on this vast plain, whioh in summer affords pasturage
for immense herds of horses. We frequently passed places where
aouls had stood, the inhabitants of whioh were gone toward the
Tarbogatai. About half past three o'clock we stopped on the bank of a large
river, now dry, with the exception of a few deep holes. In AprU
and May, when the snow is melting on the mountains, it is a ma
jestic stream, more than a verst broad, washing out holes in the
steppe in some places twenty and thirty feet deep, and sweeping
everything away in its course. Here we ate our dinner, during
which I pointed out to our guide a small column of white smoke,
evidently a very great distance off, which I supposed to be at a
Kirghis aoul ; but he assured me that there were no encampments
in that direction, and that the smoke proceeded from the reeds
burning on the shores of Nor-Zaisan. Our dinner was soon fin
ished, and we travelled straight toward the smoke, sometimes over
rich pastures, at others over gravel and stones, oq which there was
little vegetation. After riding two hours, we were near enough
to see that the steppe was on fire, and not the reeds. Our route
had been along the foot of some low grassy hills for many versts,
where our guide expected to find an encampment. We disco-

WRETCHEDNESS. 203
vered the plaoe, but the Kirghis had left some days before. One
of the Cossacks dashed off up the hill, riding along the summit
a short distance, and then returned, saying that he had seen a
single yourt, and that we should not find another for thirty or
forty versts. Our horses were tumed up the hill, and we soon
gained the summit, near a fine old tomb : the crests of these hills
aro .studded with them, and some are of great antiquity. From
this elevated position I observed that the fire was spreading fast
over the steppe. Just at dark we reached the yourt, and found
it a poor miserable place, in which were a dirty Kirghis woman
and four young children, three of whom were very ill. She
added fuel to her fire, and made our kettle boil; in return, I
made tea for herself and the children : the latter were lying on a
voilock, covered up with skins. When the woman gave them the
tea, I saw that they had not a rag of clothing to cover their little
bodies. No one can conceive the wretchedness of some of these
people, and more especially the females. The only part of this
woman's garments which indicated her sex was a piece of dirty
cotton thrown over her head, forming a cap. She had on a pair
of old leathern tehimbar (wide trowsers), boots with very high
heels, and an old sheepskin coat, with many rents in it, proving
beyond all question that she had not a rag of under-clothing.
This poor creature and a man had been left with the sick child
ren, the aoul having been moved to fresh pastures many versts
distant. While sitting drinking my tea, I could see on the steppe the
reflection of the fire, which was advancing very fast ; and as we
were not more than half an hour's walk from the old tomb on the
hill, I determined to go there, whence the whole extent of the
conflagration could be seen. Three of my people accompanied
me, and when we reached our destination, what a scene was pre
sented to us ! The flre was still about ten versts to the east, but
it was travelling directly west and along our track, extending in
breadth across the steppe probably twenty-five or thirty versts.
The flames ran along the ground, licking up the long grass with
their forked tongues with great rapidity, and making a tremen
dous glare. We remained more than an hour looking upon this
sublime and awful scene, and then returned to our lodging. I sat
up in the yourt & long time, watching the woman feed the flre
with dwarf bushes and camel's dung : she might have been taken

204

WATERING ANIMALS.

for a witch blowing up a fire for some unholy rite. Strange and
dirty as this place was, I wrapped myself up in my cloak and slept
soundly. Early thi^ morning we were ready for the road : the woman
was also preparing for departure. I gave her tea and sugar, and
saw the children drink it with great delight. They were to be
packed up in voilocks, and carried on the back of a camel. We
left them, and travelled to the south over some low hills, and from
the top of one obtained a view extending over the steppe as far
as the eye could reach. The fire had advanced some fifteen or
twenty versts, and was still raging fearfully. We had a thick
short turf to ride over for several hours, whioh must have made
fine pasturage for the horses and cattle during part of the summer.
A little before noon we arrived at a large aowZ just as the men
were drawing water from a well about ten feet deep to water their
herds and flocks. First came the goats and sheep in very large
numbers. It was quite interesting to see them march up, fifty
or sixty together, pushing each other to get to the long wooden
trough, some twenty of them drinking at a time, and then march
off in the opposite direction. One division after another oame
up, drank, and trotted away without creating any confusion.
When the sheep had finished, then came the horses, snorting and
kicking; but the men would at once drive out any refractory indi
vidual, and punish him by not allowing him to drink till the last.
I saw several undergoing this discipline. The camels are watered
at some distance : they did not come to this well. The men were
stripped, having only their tehimbar and boots on, and fine athletic
fellows they were.
Almost iramediately we arrived at the aoul a sheep was killed ;
two Kirghis set about dressing it, and in an incredibly short time
it was cut to pieces, put into a large iron caldron covered with a
wooden lid, and placed over a fire made in the ground ; a boy was
constantly employed putting small quantities of wood under the
iron vessel to keep up a blaze. The men who had dressed the
sheep took their stand beside the seething pot, each having a
wooden ladle, and occasionally lifting up the lid to skim the boil
ing mess. The Cossacks dined with the Kirghis; I did not, having
seen the entrails put into the pan after undergoing but a very
slight purification. This induced me to order tea, which I knew
would be clean. I did not even enter the yourt during dinner.

A WEALTHY KIRGHIS. 205
Directly this meal was over we started for Nor-Zaisan, and soon
oame up to beds of reeds higher than our heads, growing on the
sandy plain ; still, no water was visible. No doubt there are
times when the whole is under water, for an easterly wind will
extend the lake ten or fifteen miles in this direction. On we went
over a sandy plain, through and between beds of reeds, without
one single point of interest. At last, a little before night, we
arrived at another aoul, and on going up to the yourts I saw the
lake through a small opening in the reeds. Fifty paces brought
me to the shore, and great was my disappointment. I could see
nothing but reeds forming the boundary of the lake — not so much
as one foot of sandy shore. Nor was there a canoe in which to
go out into the open, water. I rode along the shore, through
these beds of grass, for five or six versts, and frequently forced
my horse into the water above the saddle-flaps, but without being
able to get a single peep into the lake.
During my ride I found many places where the wild boars had
been rooting and lying, but I did not see one of them ; neverthe
less, they are very numerous here, more particularly so on the
westem shore. After this I returned to the aoul greatly disap
pointed. My lodging was in the chief's yourt; carpets were
spread, tea handed round in Chinese bowls, with "kishmish"
(small dried raisins) and dried apricots — a most delicious evening
meal. The Kirghis at this aoul were wealthy; the chief had
more than three thousand horses, and nearly three hundred
camels, with oxen and sheep in great numbers.* My host was
rather short in stature, but a very gentlemanly little man, dressed
in a black velvet kalat, a crimson shawl round his waist, a beauti
fully embroidered cap on his head, and a pair of small high-heeled
red leather boots on his feet. His wife was dressed in a silk
kalat, striped with yellow, red, and green, giving her a very gay
appearanoe. She had a cap formed of white calico hanging over
her shoulders, a green shawl round her waist, and red boots.
They had four children, and these were running about naked.
There were eighteen yourts or dwellings in this aoul, making a
large population when they all came out to see the strangers.
During the evening a sheep was killed and cooked as before, but
as the Cossacks broiled some of the mutton for me, I got it olean.
When the meat was cooked, the whole of the aoul attended the
feast, men, women, and children — dogs included. For some cause,
18

206 KARA-TAS.
the sheep was not eaten in the chief's yourt; they all assembled
in another some little distance off, leaving me the sole occupant
of his dwelling. Thinking they might have some scruples about
my being of the party, I would not intrude upon them, but
remained and ate my supper in quiet.
My host informed me that it was only a two hours' ride from
his aoul to the Irtisch ; and thinking I might obtain better views
of the lake from that part, I decided on going there. We started
immediately after breakfast, riding through the reeds for more
than an hour in the hope of finding a wild boar, but without suc
cess. We continued our ride over the steppe, having in some
parts fine grass, in others sand and gravel. The ground being
little above the level of the water, a south wind will cause it to
be inundated for many miles. In about two hours and a half we
reached Kara-tas, or black stone, the Cossack fishing-station on
Nor-Zaisan, close to the Irtisch. A low island extends from the
mouth of the Irtisch to a considerable distanee into the lake,
covered with very high reeds and bulrushes, and closing up the
view in that direction. In front of the fishing-huts there are
about four hundred yards of shingle and sand extending along
the shore. The sand has been blown into heaps by the wind, and
forms many small mounds reaching far into the steppe.
Although disappointed with this visit, I felt a great desire to
explore the country to the east of Nor-Zaisan. I oould see the
misty outlines of mountains, but at a very great distance, besides
which I was determined to follow the Irtisch to its source. This
river is the principal supply and only outlet of Nor-Zaisan. It
was far too late to think of visiting the Tchornie-Irtisoh this year,
nor could it possibly be done from this place. Under these cir
cumstances, desiring to retrace my steps to Koch-bouchta without
delay, we rode back to Kliee, the aoul of my host, and started on
our return after drinking tea. He sent eleven of his own Kirghis
to accompany me to the next aoul, supposed to be about thirty
versts to the westward. We were undoubtedly a wild-looking
band, consisting of nineteen men and twenty-seven horses. As
night was drawing in fast, and the aoul very distant, my new
escort went off at a gallop, which we kept up over steppe and rough
ground for an hour, when it became quite dark. After this our
speed was slower, nor was there any certainty when or where we
should find an encampment. Two or three Kirghis rode off to

KOCH-BOUCHTA. 207
some distance on eaeh side of our route to look out for either a
light, or some other indication which might guide us to a yourt.
Having ridden more than an hour in this way, the party who had
been out on our right came in, and said there was an aoul in that
direction not far off. A Kirghis was sent to recall the other men,
when we turned toward the encampment, crossing some rising
ground, and shortly were greeted by the barking and growling of
many dogs as we rode up to the yourts. It was now about nine
o'clock; and a Kirghis yowrt is never lighted up at night except
ing by a small fire in the middle, which makes only a reddish
glare, as the camel's dung does not blaze. A few minutes suf
ficed to spread the carpets and roll ourselves up for the night.
We left this encampment soon after daylight in the moming,
and in little more than an hour came upon our old track, followed
it, and just at dark rode into Koch-bouchta, my host delighted to
see me return safe and well. Tea and various good things were
soon placed on the table, which, after so long a ride, were most
acceptable, and several of the Cossack officers came in to spend
the evening. Wodky and other drinkables were produced. My
Cossack friends sang Russian songs, and I made an attempt at
some English ones. Thus we made a very agreeable evening on
the frontiers of his celestial majesty's empire.
A little after dark on the evening of the seventh day after
leaving my friend at his gold mine, his dogs gave notice of my
retum. I was hailed with delight, and we spent several hours
very pleasantly in his little room. He presented me with one of
his beautiful dogs, long afterward a faithful companion and an
excellent guardian during my sojourn in Chinese Tartary.

CHAPTER XVI.
AMONG THB KIRGHIS.

To-day, Saturday, the Oth of October, New Style, there was a
beautiful eclipse of the sun, commencing at eight minutes to
twelve, and ending at six minutes past four. I watched this with
much interest as we rode over the steppe, knowing it would be
visible in Europe. The country over which we passed was not

208 A KIRGHIS ROBBER.
particularly interesting — low hills running down into the steppe,
with numerous small valleys, in all of which my companions told
me there was gold. We passed large flocks of wild turkeys;
but they are very difficult of approach, even to within rifle-range.
Night had now come on, and we were still far from the mine. It
was not till two hours after dark that we saw the light, and shortly
after entered the little dwelling. The lady of my host received
me kindly, and I found her a very pleasant companion. Both
host and hostess did everything they could to make me feel at
home, and it was exceedingly agreeable to me that I could now
converse with them in German without an interpreter. We
supped most sumptuously ; then I slept in a comfortable and
warm room.
Sunday morning broke with a fog so dense that it was impos
sible to see any object ten paces distant; nothing could be done
outside ; even the gold-washing was stopped. I spent the fore
noon very pleasantly with the baron and his doctor, an intelligent
man, from whom I collected muoh information about the country.
He had been the medical officer at one of the Cossaok fortresses
in the little horde of Kirghis, and a conversation I had with
these gentlemen decided me to travel through the different hordes
in the steppe.
The baron informed me that the Kirghis inhabiting the steppe
around here and to the westward are great robbers, continually
making barantas; that only eight days since they had robbed
two Cossacks, who carried his bags with all the letters, and seven
hundred rubles in gold and silver — a little more than a hundred
pounds — stripping the men of their arms and everything they
possessed. This was done in the daytime, in a mountain pass not
far distant. The Cossacks were surrounded in a moment by fifteen
Kirghis : one fired his pistols, but without effect, and they were
instantly secured, the two men having no chance against this
gang of banditti. While we were sitting at dinner, five Cossacks
arrived, bringing with them one of the gang whom they had taken :
he was a strong, hardy-looking scoundrel, not likely to stand upon
trifles when out on a plundering exhibition. Having been told
that a man had recognised him, he replied that he would not do so
next time : his meaning was fully understood by those who saw
and heard him.
Again it was wet, with a cold, cutting wind blowing direct from

GOLD-WASHERS. 209
the northeast and across the snowy summits of the Altai : this
wa*i likely to be another day spent in-doors ; but the weather
ha^^ng cleared up in the afternoon, I sketched the gold mine.
An ither Kirghis dog was presented to me by my host, belonging
to f ne of the best breeds in the steppe ; two horses had been given
in ( xchange for him : ^is name in Kirghis is " Mitaban" (elastic
sol*); my other dog's name is "lattier" (one that can catch).
Th( Y are a beautiful pair. I was assured that Mataban had run
doT a and killed not less than thirteen foxes this summer.
^'he ground was hard-bound with a strong frost this morning,
a p oof that winter was near. After breakfast I made a sketch of
th( valley about two versts from the mine. This was a very busy
see je : the gold-washing was finished for the year, and the men
paid off, great numbers of whom are Kirghis. Their yourts were
plaeed in the valley, wherever fancy dictated ; some in snug, warm
oof aers under the rocks, others in the grassy slopes, and some even
on the hills. Horses and camels were standing in small groups,
the men were busy packing up their goods and chattels, and the
women had begun dismantling their voilock dwellings. In less
than two hours the camels were loaded with all the wealth of this
people, and the women had mounted, and were leading off their
patient hump-backed companions. The men had secured their
hard-earned money in sashes tied fast round their waists; the
keen edges of their battle-axes were examined ; the thongs tried,
to see if they fitted their wrists, and then they mounted and rode
away. A few put their horses into a gallop, uttered loud shouts,
and brandished their battle-axes in defiance of the banditti they
supposed to be lying in ambush to plunder them of all they pos
sess. Most of these men succeeded in carrying off a small quan
tity of gold besides their pay. Their precautions were, on this
occasion, quite necessary, for it was well known that a large band
of plunderers were on the look-out for them. They mustered
eighty-three men ; still, they might be met by three times that
number of spoilers.
This evening we had a fearful gale, with rain and sleet, render
ing it impossible to see twenty paces.
A fine calm moming followed the stormy night, which induced
me to start on a sketching expedition. The valley of the Isilksou
had been mentioned as very beautiful ; I proposed going, when
the baron ordered two good horses to be saddled, and a Kirghis
14

210 WILD GOATS.
to guide me across the eountry about two hours' ride. We left
the gold mine before nine o'clock, riding in a northwesterly direc
tion over low hills, and frequently passing large masses of quartz.
At about a verst distant to the west some rocky peaks rose up ;
my man turned in this direction, and pointed out a herd of wild
goats feeding among the crags. We rode on toward some rocks,
nnder the shelter of which I hoped to approach near enough for a
shot. I dismounted, and scrambled from rock to rock for some
time, and then had the satisfaction of seeing them look out for me
from the crags half a verst away, the valley of the Isilksou being
immediately beneath. These rooks form its rugged sides; in
many parts are precipices five or six hundred feet high ; in other
places ravines ran up into the mountain on which we were stand
ing. The valley was about two versts broad, with the River Isilk
sou winding through the middle, twisting and writhing about like
the folds of some huge serpent.
On the opposite side the rocks rose in dark masses, higher and
more picturesque. I mounted my horse, and rode toward the
west, to seek out a ravine by which we could descend to the river-
At last we found a track made by the goats and other animals on
their descent for water. I turned to go down the ravine, but to
this the Kirghis made many objections, and stopped his horse.
Thinking he supposed it impossible to reach the valley this way,
though the track seemed good, I continued to descend without any
great difficulty, calling loudly to the man as I went on. At last
I came to a part down which it was impossible to ride ; I dis
mounted : this obliged me to lead my horse along a very stony
path and across the ravine. Just at this moment the Kirghis
appeared, calling out — I supposed wishing me to return. I could
see no farther difficulties, and went on. When I reached the
bottom of the ravine, on looking round, I observed the Kirghis
slowly descending from this place. The valley was beautiful, but
it was much more so from the opposite side ; this decided my
movements, and I rode off over a fine grassy turf, crossing the
plain toward the river. The man came up to me at a gallop, still
talking in Kirghis, which I did not understand. I put my horse
into a sharp trot, and soon reached the river, which was flowing
fast over a rocky bed ; but it was not deep, nor more than fifty
yards wide. We crossed, and presently reached the precipices,
which were split and riven into exceedingly picturesque crags.

SUSPICIOUS STRANGER. 211
with scarcely any herbage upon them. They were of a dark
purple color, almost black; some were basaltic; in other places
there were thick veins of quartz intersecting them.
I turned to the eastward, and rode to some Kirghis tombs, from
which I got an excellent view of the valley, whioh I sketched.
This was a most romantic and beautiful spot, and I deeply
regretted that the lateness of the season prevented my spending
several days among these picturesque scenes. Whatever had been
the object the Kirghis had in view, he was now quiet, and watched
my proceedings with evident interest. It was only when I began
to ride farther down the river that he again objected, and pointed
to the other side of the valley, apparently to tell me the scenery
was better there. Not far to the east I saw some grand groups
of rock, and rode on toward them, when I came upon a magnifi
cent scene. A huge mass of dark basalt rose near a thousand
feet above the valley. I dismounted, and climbed up great
rooks of red jasper, rising fifty or sixty feet above. On reaching
the top I looked down into a deep plaoe, having the appearance
of a crater, in the middle of which this immense mass of basalt
was elevated ; the whole scene had a black and hideous aspect,
quite in character with the terrible power whioh must have pro
duced this fearful locality.
While I was sitting sketching this view, the Kirghis approached
and pointed out two men on horseback, riding fast up the valley,
not half a verst distant, as if intending to cross the river two or
three versts above us, as they went straight toward a great bend
in its course. Our position was so elevated, with our horses stand
ing near, that they must have seen us. The man began talking
again, pointing across the valley lower down, evidently wishing to
be off. I now caught the word " baranta," and the whole was
explained to me in a moment. He had been all the time object
ing to descend into the valley, fearing we might meet the free
booters known to be in the neighborhood.
I now cast a look after the two men in the valley, who were
going at full speed toward the river ; then leaving the Kirghis to
watch them, I continued my sketch. In about a quarter of an
hour he touched my shoulder and pointed up the valley : they
were at this moment crossing the river ; then, after descending the
opposite bank, they turned their horses round to look at us. Hav
ing stood a few minutes, they went off again at a gallop, and soon

212 ESCAPE FBOM KIRGHIS BANDITTI.
disappeared beyond the rocks. My sketch was finished, and my
things being packed up, when we were greatly surprised by the
low growl of what we supposed to be thunder at a very great dis
tance; but, from our position, we could see nothing of the storm,
all being clear and bright. The Kirghis led our horses down, but
before reaching the bottom of the hills stopped, and pointed out a
man standing on some rocks near the plaoe we had last seen the
two horsemen. There could be no doubt that he was watching
our movements. The girths of our saddles were looked to, and
we started, the Kirghis leading the way across the valley to the
south, toward a great ravine I could see on the opposite side.
There was evidently something mysterious about these people,
and my man kept a sharp look-out up the valley. I fancied he
expected to see a party crossing to cut us off before we could
reach the gold mine; but this was conjecture. We had to ride
same distance down the river before we could descend the bank,
and find a plaoe to ford it. At length, after going nearly a verst,
we came to a point where many horses had passed this morning.
As the footprints were quite fresh, we were certain that they had
been made since the rain, whioh proved beyond doubt that there
were many people in the valley somewhere, and my man seemed
a little perplexed as to whioh course to take. He followed the
track until we discovered that they had gone up the valley straight
to where we had seen the two men disappear.
After proceeding a short distance, we came upon the track of
the two men who had come from the pass we were riding to ; the
Kirghis stopped suddenly, looking intently along the valley, and
pointing to a plaoe up the river, perhaps four or five versts
distant, where we distinctly saw three men driving a number of
horses toward the high precipices which bounded the valley. We
also caught sight of the man who was still on the rocks watching
us. All this had a suspicious appearanoe, and the horses we had
»een were quite as near our friends at the gold mine as ourselves.
We now started at a gallop toward the pass, not knowing whether
we could ascend through it or not. I had no fear of its being occu
pied, as the gang were most certainly farther up in the valley. It
was exceedingly fortunate that I turned downward to sketch ; had
I gone up we should have ridden into their den, and been caught
without a chance of escape. I had my rifle, and the Kirghis his
knife, but these would have availed us little with great odds

ESCAPE FROM KIRGHIS BANDITTI. 213
against us. Before reaching the pass we stopped on some rising
ground to look up and examine the valley, when we saw seven
men, four crossing the river, and three following down the bank.
The Kirghis said something and spat toward them, and I saw that
we should have a ride for it. I examined my rifle, placed a new
cap on the nipple, and then made the discovery that my powder-
flask had been left on my table at the gold mine. The charge in
the rifle was all I had to depend on, and this I determined to
keep for the leader of the band.
We saw our suspicious acquaintances ride up the bank, when
they all stood still, looking toward us. No doubt we were ob
served, for, as soon as we moved, they did. Ten minutes carried
us up into the ravine, where we found a track, in some parts
extremely steep; we jumped off our horses, aud led them as fast
as they could walk. In a little more than half an hour we were
near the summit, with our horses quite fresh. We mounted, and
rode on a trot for a short distance, when the Kirghis put his horse
to a gallop ; I followed, and away we went toward the gold mine.
We were very soon on the ridge xif the first hill, whence we could
see a long way beyond the place from which we had descended into
the valley : not a man was to be seen. To wait for these robbers
would have been folly, so we pushed over the undulating steppe
to the second ridge, from whioh point we oould ride to the gold
mine in less than an hour.
We now pulled up to look over the country, when we observed
two men ride up one of the ridges, evidently looking out for us,
but they were at least three versts behind ; presently three others
joined them. At this moment we rode over a high mound,
giving them a full view of us as we stood on the top. Our horses
were not blown, and I felt a great desire to have the leader of this
band within rifle-range. We stood looking at each other for a
few minutes, and then turaed our horses down the hill, putting
them into a gallop, and reached our friends at the gold mine with
out seeing anything more of the gang, who, no doubt, had expected
to catch us.
I told my host where we had been, and he was horrified, exclaim
ing, " Had I known that you had descended into the valley of the
Isilksou, I should have given you up for lost, for it was in one of
these ravines that the Cossacks were robbed." I then related to
him all that had passed between the Kirghis and myself before

214 PREPARING FOR BATTLE.
going down the pass. My friend said the poor fellow knew it was
a bad place, and the risk we should run, besides whioh he had
received instructions to be careful. I acknowledged the fault had
been my own, as I had forced him to go by riding on into the
valley, and he had honorably maintained his place beside me.
The man was sent for, when he gave a perfectly true account of
the whole affair, and said he had done all he oould to keep me
back. He gave the baron other information, which I saw made
him uneasy. In the evening this was explained to me ; the fact
is, we were to leave the gold mine the next morning, and were to
carry with us the*whole of the gold which had been got during
summer. Our route was across the valley of the Isilksou, a little
farther down, and the Kirghis had suggested that these men were
probably waiting to pounce upon the treasure.
During the evening the doctor was occupied in cleaning his
own and the baron's arms, consisting of two double-barrelled guns
and two pistols : the former he loaded with twenty small rifle-
balls in eaeh barrel. As it was probable that my stay here might
prove of some value to my kind host, having seven barrels at his
service, I followed the doctor's example — set to work, cleaned up
all my armory, and put them in good fighting condition. Alto
gether we mustered fifteen barrels ; possessed of which, with the
doctor's prescribed dose in six of them, we should prove rather
formidable ; the more so, as the attack must be made in daylight,
if done on the road. It was thought by both my friends that
these plunderers might pay us a visit during the night, so the
dogs were all turned loose as a security. These Kirghis dogs are
exceedingly watchful, and would be certain to give notice of their
approach. We supped and sat up talking until a late hour, the
baron and the doctor relating many accounts of the plundering
expeditions of these wild Kirghis.
Long before daylight there was a storm, which made the little
wooden building shake, and when I got up I saw that we were
doomed to be detained another day, for the wind was roaring, and
the rain and sleet falling so thick that no one could travel : this
weather continued nearly the whole day, and kept us in-doors.
During the night it was bad again, but the following morning
there was a considerable improvement, and all were now actively
preparing for the journey. The arrangements were, that the
baron, his wife, and daughter, with the gold, should be in one

ORDER OF MARCH. 215
telaga, two children and two servant-women in another, the doctor
and myself in a third, with three horses to each. We had six
men on horseback, and the three drivers. Our order of march
was two men on horseback a little in advance, then the doctor and
myself; the baron and his family followed; the children and
women were last, with the four men in attendance.
We started at a good speed toward the dreaded valley, and in
about an hour and a half were at the head of the pass, down
which we must descend : here it was narrow and rocky — a capi
tal plaoe for an attack. The carpet, which had been thrown over
us and our arms, was turned down ; my pistols lay on my lap,
and the gun on my right side. The doctor had his pistols on
his lap, and his gun in his hand ; my rifle I held ready. The
men were obliged to drive very slowly down the pass ; but we
arrived in the valley without seeing either man or animal. We
were now on good ground, and could not be taken by surprise.
The valley was crossed, the river forded, aud we commenced the
ascent of thd very pass in which the robbery had been so recently
committed. The ladies and their female attendants began to get frightened
as we entered between the dark basaltic crags, among which
hundreds of men could lie conoealed, and the baron became also
alarmed on account of his gold. The doctor had some valuables
with him ; I, however, had little beyond myself, but had no incli
nation to be made a slave. The ravine was steep and rugged,
making our progress very slow, and at every tuming we expected
to see the caps of these fellows among the rocks ; but not one
appeared, and we reached the top in safety. We were now tra
velling over a hilly, open country, with neither tree nor bush to
be seen. Veins of quartz ran across the mountains in perfectly
straight lines, extending several versts in length, some two feet
broad, others more than three feet thick. In every little ravine
or small valley gold can be found, but in many it is in such small
quantities that it would not pay for working.
The granite chain over which we passed is in some parts a
mass of bare rock, with no vegetation excepting mosses. In some
places the rocks were singular deep bowls — some fflled with water,
others quite dry, and some I saw were ffiled with rounded stones,
exactly like the boulders found in a mountain torrent. As we
approached near the summit their crests became rugged and

216

GRANITE PRECIPICES.

broken into numerous crags, often taking the forms of fine old
ruins, with battlements and turrets of gigantic dimensions. De
scending toward the north, we crossed what appeared to be the
dry bed of a mighty river, covered with large and small blocks,
all undoubtedly rounded by the action of water. In its present
position no quantity of water can ever be collected ; it must have
been the bed of a river heaved up when this chain was elevated
above the steppe. On one side of this channel granite precipices
rise six and eight hundred feet, quite perpendicular. Going still
lower toward the steppe, the scene changes ; grassy slopes extend
up among the rocks, and little torrents come tumbling and fret
ting down their rugged and deeply-cut channels. At one time
the water appears like vapor waving in the breeze, and all the
forms are seen through it ; then it goes rolling on like foam as it
leaps from rock to rock; at other places the rooks enclose it
altogether, and then it is seen rushing out of an aperture into a
large granite basin fifty or sixty feet below. From this it boils
over, and is lost under masses of fallen granite, which fill up part
of the little gorge.
Hitherto the mountains on the Irtisch and the more distant
Altai had been enveloped in clouds, but just as we reaohed the
foot of the granite chain the fog began gradually to rise from the
steppe, first revealing a lake in the valley some six versts distant.
As it rolled up higher, a small granite chain, like the one we had
just crossed, appeared with quaint and curious forms. There was
one mass of granite on the opposite shores of the lake which at
this distance appeared like a vast Sphinx not less than three
hundred feet high. As the vapory curtain ascended other moun
tain forms came into view, those on the Irtisch and the lower
ranges beyond. Still higher the clouds rolled up, till at last the
snowy ridges and high summits of the Altai stood out in all their
grandeur. From this place most unquestionably the finest general
view of the Altai is obtained. There is a vast steppe studded with
several lakes, small picturesque granite ridges rising abruptly from
the plain, bold in form and bright in color, assuming the most
beautiful and aerial tones as they recede, alraost lost in bluish
vapor, while above are seen the snow-capped summits and glaciers
of the Altai glittering in the sun.
We had now reached the steppe, where it was proposed that our
party should remain, while I proceeded with three or four men to

CROSSING THE IRTISCH. 217
the Monastery Mountains, about ten versts distant. But, the
baron fearing these roving bands of robbers known to be hovering
about the steppe, it was deemed prudent that we should push
forward as fast as possible with the gold. Fresh horses were
waiting to take us on, carpets were spread under the shelter of
some rocks, the provisions were unpacked, wine and Russian
brandy circulated freely, and the somervar soon gave us tea,
which completed our repast in the far-off steppe — a repast
thousands might have envied — the sauce having been given by a
long ride in these shaky telagas and the keen mountain air.
Our dinner being ended, away we went at a rattling speed over
the level and grassy steppe, the object being to cross a small chain
of mountains before dark. Night caught us, however, before we
reached them, and rendered our progress both slow and tedious.
It was shortly so exceedingly dark that we could not see ten paces
before us. At length we passed the summit, and as we began to
descend, discerned the lights at Oust-Kamenogorsk, more than an
hour's ride distant. When we arrived on the banks of the Irtisch
the boatmen objected to cross, the night being very dark and
windy. Fortunately for us, we had passed a small Kirghis aoul
half an hour before reaching the Irtisch. We therefore drove back
to it, and took up our quarters in their temporary yourts, which
were neither warm, clean, nor comfortable. We, however, made
the best of the accommodation, and slept the night.
Soon after daylight one of the men rode with me to the river
to get the boats ready, the wind still blowing a gale, which
rendered it exceedingly difficult to cross. The rest of the party
arrived in the telagas, when the ladies and the baron were put in
a large canoe ; I took charge of the children in another, and the
doctor brought over the two women. We crossed the river in
safety, and in due time arrived in a comfortable dwelling, all very
cold and excessively hungry. Shortly after the gale increased,
• and the rain poured down in torrents incessantly for two successive
days, keeping me shut up a prisoner. Sunday was a clear day,
with every appearanoe of fine weather. The colonel commanding
here ordered me an escort of three Cossacks. These, with my
Cossack from Siberia, my servant and myself, made a party of
six well-armed men, and at one o'clock I bade adieu to the baron
and his family, who wished me a safe return from this region of
banditti.

218 A LAGGARD.
There was a strong wind blowing, which caused us to take
exactly an hour in crossing the Irtisch. We landed on the Kirghis
side, where I found my escort and three horses, which had been
sent over before, also a man to bring the animals back from the
first aoul. - The three Cossacks were soldier-like fellows — men
who I felt sure would never fiinch under any circumstances.
After a short delay we mounted and rode across the steppe toward
the mountains to the west. When we reached the ridge the sun
was sinking fast., We examined the steppe in front, hoping tc
find some indication of an aoul where we could stay the night, but
nothing oould be,seen indicating that there were living beings on
this vast plain. The Cossacks were now at a loss which route to
take, consequently we were obliged to ride slowly down the steep
mountain, frequently examining the steppe, when one of the men
saw a smoke a considerable distance to the southeast. Although
this would take us a long way out of our road, as nothing else
could be seen, it was decided that we should sleep there.
The sun had set before we reached the plain, and night was
fast approaching, yet the smoke was still visible', and I took the
bearing with my compass. We were now going to ride without
track or mark of any kind; there was not a tree to guide us, and
in less than an hour it would be quite dark. One of the Cos
sacks said we must ride fast, or we should have great difficulty in
finding the aoul, as no lights are shown after dark to mark the
spot. We went off at a gallop, and after riding hard about half
an hour we could scarcely see the smoke; I took the bearing
again, and away we went at a gallop over the turfy steppe. We
had not ridden long before my servant began to lag behind, and
called out to me, begging some one to wait for him ; at length he
was so far in the rear that we were obliged to pull up and wait,
or we might lose him. Nothing could be observed to guide us
and it was difficult to see my compass. The laggard was assured
that he would be left on the steppe if he did not keep up with
us, and certainly fall into the hands of some of the gangs knowe
to be plundering : this frightened him greatly. It was now quite
dark, and still we gallopped on for more than half an hour, when
a Cossack expressed a wish for us to halt and stand still. We
did so, and listened, hoping to hear the dogs barking.
One of the men dismounted, walked a little in advance, lay
down on the ground and listened, but could hear nothing. We

KIRGHIS AOUL. 219
rode on slowly again, listening to every sound, when a Cossack
called out to stop, and then we distinctly heard dogs at a very
long distance, more to our left. This was some satisfaction, for
we were at least getting nearer. Tuming to the proper direction,
we rode toward them, occasionally hearing their cheerful voices.
It is only the tired traveller wandering for hours over the steppes
on a dark night who can appreciate these canine voices : they are
sweeter than the song of the nightingale.
At last they ceased barking altogether. We had ridden some
time without hearing anything to guide us, when one of the Cos
sacks stopped, and sent two of his comrades, forward, all the
others remaining quite still. In about a quarter of an hour they
returned, having come upon the shore of a lake, but without
hearing anything; this was bad, and we now agreed to tum more
to the right. We had ridden but a short distance in that direc
tion when we heard the dogs again, more distinctly, and appa
rently right before us. Two men rode off toward the sound, and
presently they were heard shouting; we pushed on, and in a
short time reached a large aoul. The Cossacks rooted out the
chief, and established me in his yourt. In a very few minutes
brick-tea was prepared for my companions, and smoked horseflesh
handed to me ; this I declined, at the risk of being thought a
barbarian, and contented myself with tea, whioh I drank with
great zest after our cold and hard ride.
We had caused a great commotion by riding into the aoul at
this late hour, all being asleep except the watchman. When they
awoke they heard the dogs barking so furiously, and the men
shouting so vociferously, that they thought the banditti had come.
The yourt was soon filled with Kirghis, anxious to look at the
people who had caused them so rauoh alarm. I gave the old chief
tea with loaf-.sugar, to his infinite delight, and insisted on his sit
ting with me on the carpet whioh had been spread opposite the
door — the place of honor in his yourt.
It was bitter cold, with a strong wind blowing over the steppe
from the northeast, which penetrated into the yourt, and made my
teeth chatter.
My host was a fine old man, with a scanty gray beard and a
deep scar on his left cheek, received on one of his plundering
expeditions many years ago. He had on a coat of brown horse-

220 A COWARD.
skin, with the mane extending half way down the centre of his
back, tied round the waist with a scarlet shawl, while a fox-skin
cap on his head fell over his ears, rising into a cone on the top,
' and lined inside -with crimson : a pair of high-heeled madder-
colored boots completed his costume. His wife looked old and
dirty. She had on a black velvet kalat, reaching to her feet, tied
round the waist with a white scarf. A white calico head-dress
was formed into a sort of turban, and a part of it fell over her
shoulders, covering up her neck. She had boots like those of her
husband. The children, dressed in brown lambskin coats, sat
near the fire, intently watching all my movements.
The Cossacks thought it was time to take some sleep, and soon
cleared the yourt of all but the chief and his family. Voilocks
had been spread for me where I had been sitting, on which I lay
down, wrapped up in a fur, and was soon snug and warm. The
yourt was about twenty-five feet in diameter, and ten feet high in
the centre. Close to where I slept were several rich carpets rolled
up, and four or five boxes containing all the old man's wealth.
On the other side of these valuables my host and his wife slept,
and near them three children. My Cossack from Siberia, and the
one who had command of my escort, spread voilocks and slept in
this yourt. I do not know whether this was matter of precaution
on my account, but it was always done.
Horses were brought to the yourt at daybreak. After a bathe
in the lake I sat down to breakfast, when the Cossack brought
me some broiled lamb, one having already been killed and nearly
cooked in the iron caldron for the morning meal. My servant
came into the yourt, looking miserable ; I fancied the idea of a
day's hard riding was the cause, but it was not. He had heard
the Kirghis relating stories of the robbers on the previous night,
whioh the Cossacks translated into Russian, and this had fright
ened him. When I said that he should return to Oust-Kameno
gorsk with the horses, and wait for me there, the effect was won
derful ; in ten minutes he was actively engaged in packing my
things, and telling the Cossack what he would have to do for me.
My delight at sending him back almost equalled his own, seeing
how muoh he dreaded going among the Kirghis.
The Arkat Mountains, an inconsiderable chain, which stretches
across the steppe, are composed of peaks of bare granite, and are

BARREN PLACE. 221
exceedingly picturesque. Near them are many salt lakes fringed
with the salsola, with its deep crimson color, which produces a
splendid effect.

CHAPTER XVII.
ADVENTURES IN'THE STEPPE.

The old chief ordered two of his Kirghis to accompany me
and bring back the horses. It was necessary to be fully prepared
for a hard gallop, which induced the Cossacks to pack my small
quantity of baggage into leathern bags, always used by the Kirghis,
and to take two extra horses to carry them. They would then
have very light loads, and be able to travel at a gallop when neces
sary. This being accomplished, we left the old chief and rode
away, directing our course to the southwest. The morning was
calm and beautiful, more like a summer's day than one so late in
the autumn ; but there was nothing to interest me on this vast
steppe, the herbage having been eaten up, and flowers there were
none. After riding several hours, we came upon a part almost
destitute of vegetation, the whole surface a coarse reddish gravel,
with a few rounded blocks of stone, of small dimensions. A little
to the left of our route, and apparently about ten versts distant,
we saw an encampment. The two Kirghis said we must go there,
as we should not find another before reaching the Monastery
Mountains. Our horses were turned toward it, and we gallopped
on, as I was anxious to reach this aoul as early as possible, and
get nearer the mountains. Before noon the horses were changed,
and while this was being done I made a sketch, looking toward
the Chinese frontier on the Irtisoh, the scenery in this region
being extremely pretty. Having finished, we started on again
with two Kirghis, and horses for the baggage. Riding fast over
the steppe for an hour and a half, we arrived at a plaoe which
afforded me a capital view of the Monastery Mountains; having
finished a drawing of this, we rode on again, seeking the aoid of
Mahomed, a celebrated chief, reputed very wealthy. The Kirghis
said we should find him near the Mantilla Rocks, which they
pointed out f^r away to the south. Judging by the misty tone

222

KIRGHIS GROUP.

of their color, I was certain that they were thirty versts distant
at least ; but it requires considerable experience before the eye
can measure with any degree of accuracy the distances on these
boundless steppes. Unless we pushed on very fast, there was

aaoup OF KmoHis, with eoumis bottle and bowl.
every "probability of our being obliged to sleep on the steppe with
out shelter. We had good herses, and the Kirghis were equally
anxious with ourselves to reach the aoul; they therefore secured
the bags on the horses to prevent their shaking, and then away
we went, gallopping over the smooth plain straight toward the
misty mass.
For more than an hour we had gone on looking to the right
and left, but not one living object had been seen, nor was there
any great change in the appearance of the Mantilla Eocks to
indicate that we were much nearer. Having reached the edge
of a slight depression or a very broad undulation, we stopped to
examine the country over whioh we had to ride, but neither
camels, horses, nor yourts could be seen. The sun was sinking
fast ; in an hour he would be below the ridges to the west ; there
was no time to be lost, as a starlight ride in this region was some
what dangerous — at least our Kirghis thought so, and they did
not spare their horses. After crossing the depression in the
steppe, we were once again on the elevated ground, and stood

DOGS. 223
some minutes gazing over the country, when the Cossacks and
Kirghis declared no cattle or yourts could be seen. I thought
otherwise, and pointed to a dark mass descending the slightly
elevated plain toward the Mantilla Rocks ; but not one of them
could see it ; nevertheless, I was certain it was a herd of horses
being driven toward the aoul. This was not the first time I had
discovered objects far beyond the range of vision of many other
persons. The Cossacks and Kirghis had no hope ; however, half
an hour's hard riding convinced them I was right ; they could
now see that such an object was there, and that the mass was
moving toward us. The Kirghis understood the matter at once,
and turned to the southeast.
We had not ridden more than five or six versts when we reached
another of these broad depressions. From this bank of four or
five versts we saw a large aoul on the shore of a small lake, with
great herds of horses and camels going slowly toward it. This
was a delightful sight to us, as we rode our horses down the bank,
and were very soon passing through an immense herd of camels,
being driven in from several different points ; great numbers of
sheep we could see already around the encampment. As we rode
along the Kirghis eyed us keenly, no doubt wondering who and
what we were. A Cossack had been sent on to announce our
coming to the chief. Approaching nearer, the dogs began to
greet us with a very loud barking ; they were a paok of savage-
looking rascals, who would bite as well as bark when the oppor
tunity served. They kept close in attendance with their music
till we nearly reached the aoul, and were only induced to retreat
by the whips of the Kirghis, who had ridden out to meet us.
They led me up to a large yourt, at the door of which a long
spear, with a tuft of black horsehair on it, was standing. A fine
old man took hold of the reins of my bridle, and gave me his
hand to dismount; to refuse his assistance would have been an
insult. He then conducted me into his yourt, a beautiful Bokha
rian carpet was spread, on which he placed me, seating himself
on the voilock near. I invited him to a seat on his own carpet,
whioh afforded evident satisfaction to all those assembled in the
yourt. This was Mahomed, and the three Kirghis who had met us
were his sons ; they were seated near to us. My arms were mat
ter of great interest to them when a Cossack brought my saddle

224 PORTRAIT OF MAHOMED.
into the yourt and took the pistols out of the holsters. The old
man and his sons being anxious to examine them, I removed the
caps to prevent any accident, and they were scrutinized with in
tense interest. They could not understand why I had taken the
caps off, and seemingly thought there was some secret in these
which I did not wish them to comprehend. To satisfy them, I
drew the shot from both barrels of my gun : this was equally a
curiosity; I then put a cap on one nipple and wiped the other;
cocked both looks, and went out of the yourt, followed by all. I
pulled the trigger and let the hammer strike the nipple without a
cap ; they looked at it, and wished me to pull the trigger again.
I now pulled the other trigger, when they were all startled by the
report. I then put a cap on the first nipple, cooked the lock, and
handed the gun to one of the sons, who held it to his shoulder,
touched the trigger, and was much astounded when the report
rang in his ears. With this exhibition they weire highly delighted.
When we returned into the yourt my tea was ready; I poured it
out, handed a tumbler of the beverage and a piece of sugar to
the old chief, also one to his wife, who seemed perfectly astonished
— I could not understand why at the time, but I was wiser in a
day or two.
Having taken a liberal quantity, my Cossack added water to
the pot and made tea for the sons, giving them sugar from the
box, to their infinite satisfaction. It was now quite dark, and
the fire gave very little light to the yourt. Presently a Kirghis
came in with a large bundle of small bushes, put them on the
fioor, sat down by the fire, took a handful, placed it on the ashes,
and blew the embers into a flame. These twigs burned brightly
for some time ; as soon as the flame began to die away he added
another small portion, and thus he kept up a continual blaze,
which gave me an opportunity of examining the chief, his family,
and their dwelling.
He was upward of sixty years old, stout and square-built, with
broad features, a fine fiowing gray beard, a pair of small piercing
eyes, and a countenance not disagreeable. He wore on his head
a closely-fitling silk cap beautifully embroidered in silver; his
dress being a long robe, or kalat of pink and yellow striped silk,
tied round the waist with a white shawl ; his boots were of red
dish-brown leather, small, with very high heels, causing him, I
thought, some difficulty in walking. His wife was much younger

FAMILY AND DWELLING OF MAHOMED. 225
— I supposed not more than thirty, or, at most, thirty-five years
of age. She wore a black kanfa (Chinese satin) kalat, with a
red shawl tied round the waist, boots of the same color and make
as her husband's, a white muslin cap, rather pointed, with lap
pets hanging down at the sides nearly as low as her waist, beau
tifully worked on the edge with red silk. Her face was broad,
with high cheek-bones, little black twinkling eyes, a small nose,
and a wide mouth ; nor was there anything either prepossessing
or pretty in her appearance. While examining her features, I
could not help thinking how much a Russian bath would improve
the tints of her yellow skin and complexion. There were three
young children — one boy about five years old, dressed in a yellow
and red striped kalat, his only garment ; the other two little
sturdy urchins were younger : they were rolling about on the
voilocks perfectly naked, and playing with a young goat, who
every now and then stepped back, made a spring forward, and
sent one of them sprawling.
Near the door a fine hawk was chained to a perch stuck into
the ground. The yourt was formed of willow trellis-work, put
together with untanned strips of skin, made into compartments
which fold up. It was a circle of thirty-four feet in diameter,
five feet high to the springing of the dome, and twelve feet in the
centre. This dome is formed of bent rods of willow, one and a
quarter inch diameter, put into the mortice-holes of a ring about
four feet across, which secures the top of the dome, admits light,
and lets out the smoke. The lower ends of the willow rods are
tied with leathern thongs to the top of the trellis-work at the
sides, whioh renders it quite strong and secure. The whole is
then covered with large sheets of voilock, made of wool and camel's
hair, fitting close, making it water-tight and warm. A small
aperture in the trellis-work forms a doorway, over which a pit-v^e
of voilock hangs down and closes it; but in the daytime this is
rolled up and secured on the top of the yourt. Such is the
dwelling of a great and wealthy chief in the steppe.
The furniture and fittings of these dwellings are exceedingly
simple : the fire being made on the ground in the centre of the
yourt, directly opposite to the door voilocks are spread ; on these
stand sundry boxes, which contain the different articles of clothing,
pieces of Chinese silk, tea, dried fruits, ambas of silver (small
squares about two and a half inches long, one inch and a half
15

226

KOUMIS.

wide, and about three tenths of an inch thick). Some of the
Kirghis possess large quantities of these ainbas, whioh are care
fully hoarded up. Above these boxes are bales of Bokharian and
Persian carpets, some of great beauty and value. In another
part of the yourt is the large leathern koumis sack, completely
covered up with voilock to keep it warm and aid the fermenta
tion. This is a most important piece of furniture in a Kirghis
domestic establishment. I have seen one five feet eight inches
long, and four feet five inches wide, with a leathern tube at one
corner about four inches in diameter, through which they pour
the milk into the bag, and draw the koumis out. A wooden in
strument is introduced into the bag, the handle passing through
the tube, not unlike a chuming-staff; with this the koumis is
frequently agitated. This bag is never washed out : it would be
spoiled by doing so.
Near the koumis bag stands a large leathern bottle, sometimes
holding four gallons, often much ornamented; so are the small
bottles made to carry on the saddle. In another place stands the
large iron caldron, and the trivet on whioh it is placed when used
for cooking in the yourt. There are usually half a dozen Chinese
wooden bowls, often beautifully painted and japanned. These are
used to drink the koumis-tiom : some of them hold three pints,
others more. On entering a Kirghis yourt in summer, one of the
Chinese bowls full of koumis is presented to each guest. It is
considered impolite to return the vessel before emptying it, and a
good Kirghis is never guilty of this impropriety.
The Kirghis begin making koumis in April. The mares are
milked at five o'clock in the morning, and at the same hour in the
evening, into large leathern pails, which are taken immediately to
the ycurt, and the milk poured into the koumis bag. The first
fourteen days after they begin making this beverage very little of
it is drunk ; but with fermentation and agitation it is considered
by this time in perfection, when it is drunk in great quantities by
the wealthy Kirghis, as a man must have a large stud of brood
mares to afford a corresponding consumption of this beverage.
Almost every Kirghis has a koumis bottle slung "to his saddle in
summer, which he loses no opportunity of replenishing at every
aoul he visits.
The saddles are placed on the bales of carpets. Rich horse-
trappings being highly prized by the wealthy Kirghis, many of

AN EVENING WITH THE CHIEF. 227
their saddles are beautiful and costly. If of Kirghis workman
ship, they are decorated with silver inlaid on iron, in chaste orna
mental designs, and have velvet cushions; the bridles and other
trappings covered with small iron plates inlaid in the same manner.
I saw one set of this decorated harness whioh cost the owner
fifty horses. The battle-axe is also richly inlaid with silver, and
the iron rings round the handle are ornamented in a similar
style. This is really a formidable weapon. The head of the axe
is moderately heavy, and sharp, a handle about four feet six inches
long being secured by a leathern thong round the wrist. The
Kirghis is very expert with the use of this weapon, which he
wields with terrible effect.
Leathern thongs and ropes made of camel's hair are hung up on
the trellis-work, common saddles, saddle-cloths, and leathern tehim
bar. This part of a Kirghis costume is frequently made of black
velvet, splendidly embroidered with silk, more especially the back
elevation. They are made so large that a Kirghis can tuck the
laps of his three or four kalats into them when he rides, and are
tied round his waist with a leathern strap, thus giving to the
centre part of his person a globe-like form, out of which a very
diminutive head and legs protrude, and to the whole figure a
most unwieldy appearanoe.
Having described the Kirghis and his dwelling, I must give an
account of my first evening with the old ohief. When we arrived
at his aoul he instantly ordered a sheep to be killed and a feast
to be prepared. While this was being done we spent the time in
drinking tea and examining the arms. Then one of his sons oame
to say that all was ready : my Cossaok had told' them I should
not eat again after my tea. The old ohief ordered that something
should be kept for me, and the Cossacks having assured him that
a part of the sheep should be cooked for my breakfast, he was
satisfied, and all went off to the feast, even the youngest children.
Carpets had been spread for me to sleep upon, and the Cossack
had placed my fur ready, when I wished to turn in. I sat some
time watching the fading light of the little fire, which I frequently
replenished, until at length the bushes were finished ; this induced
me to prepare for the night by putting caps on my pistols and
placing them under the articles whioh formed my pillow. I then
rolled myself up in my fur. In about an hour they all returned ;
a light was blown up which lasted about ten minutes ; the children

228

A PATRIARCH.

were packed in their voilocks, the old chief lay down in his fur
coat, and his wife wrapped herself up, and took her berth ne:ir
the children. The two Cossacks made their beds and placed their
arms near, then they turned down, a Kirghis dropped the voilock
over the doorway, and we were made up for the night.
All were out with the dawn, and then commenced a scene in
pastoral life highly interesting to me. I had left the yourt and
looked around in every direction, but beheld only a mass of living
animals. The whole of the herds are brought to the aoul at night,
where they are most carefully guarded by watchmen and dogs
placed in every direction,, rendering it almost impossible to enter
any aoul without detection. In my childhood I lived in localities
where there were many horses and cattle, and used to think a flock
of five or six hundred sheep a large one, but was now astonished
by the numbers before and around me. The noise at first was
almost intolerable : there was the sharp ery of the camels, the
neighing of the horses, the bellowing of the bulls, the bleating
of the sheep and goats, the barking of the dogs, and the shouting
of the men — a very Babel. I counted one hundred and six camel.i,
including their young ; there were more than two thousand horses,
one thousand oxen and cows, and six thousand sheep and goats.
Even these, large as the number may appear, were far short of the
total number of animals belonging to the patriarch chief; he had
two other aouls, at each of which there were one thousand horses
and other cattle. Women were busy milking the cows, and the
men were preparing to drive these vast herds to their pastures.
The horses and camels are driven to the greatest distance — as
muoh as ten and fifteen versts ; the oxen come next, and the sheep
remain nearest the aoul, but these ramble five or six versts away.
It was, indeed, a wonderful sight when they were marched off in
different directions, spreading themselves out in living streams as
they moved slowly along the steppe.
With tea and broiled mutton I made a capital breakfast; and
this was quite necessary, as I had a long ride before me. The
horses were already at theyoMrt; my sketching traps were handed
to a Kirghis, who was to accompany me, and my gun to another;
I sluug on my rifle, and we rode off toward the Monastery Moun
tains. Distances are very difficult to estimate on th-ese vast steppes,
with their clear atmosphere. We had ridden more than an hour.

RESIDENCE OF "SHAITAN." 229
when I found a point from which I got a good view, and yet we
seemed but little nearer the mountains than when at the aoul.
Having finished my sketch, we rode on again over undulating
ground; a few versts farther we oame upon numerous blocks of
granite piled up, and forming the top of rocky masses, broken into
singular shapes, and often quite perpendicular toward the west,
where the ground sunk into deep hollows. Hitherto we had been
riding straight toward the southern end of the Monastery Moun
tains, and had reached a more elevated steppe. Seven or eight
versts to the south of us rose a splendid group of granite, which I
deemed it best to visit first, as this would prevent me going over
the ground again. We turned our horses and rode toward those
ridges ; but, when nearer, I found that what had appeared a rocky
mountain in the distance was in reality a great number of isolated
masses, some of the most singular and picturesque shapes, from
this plaoe appearing like ruined castles, churches, fortresses, and
other buildings of a vast city.
On a closer approach they appear still more curious ; indeed, it
was difficult to believe that some were not the works of an ancient
race, who had built up these huge edifices with wonderful solidity
and picturesque effect. In several places large masses of rock
were standing on very small bases, considerably elevated; in
others, pedestals supported what might well be taken for the
ruined shafts of columns of gigantic dimensions.
Farther on were ruined towers and mighty battlements, with
turrets rising high above, on which I almost expected to see grim
watchmen peering bver the vast plains. Had these been the days
of genii, surely on this spot they might have been found. I felt
somewhat reluctant to enter among such strange and gigantic
forms, knowing that a closer examination would dispel the illusions
fancy had been calling up while transferring the scene to my
paper; but, having finished my drawing, I determined on a closer
inspection, and rode into what in the distance appeared streets,
but were deep ravines cut in the granite — ragged, and in many
places forming steps twenty and thirty feet high. I dismounted,
and, accompanied by a Cossack and a Kirghis, began scrambling
over rooks and through places which these children of the steppe
consider the residence of " Shaitan." Few, if any, of the tribe
would be hardy enough to remain with a herd near this place till
nightfall.

230 RUM-DRINKING.
After climbing among the labyrinth for nearly two hours, we
descended on to the steppe at a considerable distance from where
we entered. I fired my gun as a signal, and in a short time my
other two companions gallopped toward us. The day was too far
advanced to think of our proceeding farther westward; I there
fore decided to continue our ride along the foot of this little
chain. We had not ridden far when I was induced to make ano
ther sketch, looking through a wide chasm to some high peaks
beyond. Before my drawing was finished the sun was sinking fast, and
we turned our horses toward home. The snowy summits of the
Kourt-Chume Mountains were seen extending far to the south
ward, while the higher summits of the Altai shone out like bur
nished gold, changing into red as the sun sank down. A most
beautiful effect was produced by a contrast of the deep blue and
purple shades of the lower range with the rich brown on the
steppe. I watched the changes as we rode on until night came
creeping over the rocks and plains, which induced us to put our
horses into a gallop, and in a little more than an hour we reached
the aoul.
Since leaving the yourt this morning I had ridden many hours,
walked and climbed much, and made several sketches, without
tasting either food or water (the men always carried something to
eat with them) ; therefore now I was fully prepared for my even
ing meal, which the Cossack soon placed before me ; it consisted
exclusively of broiled mutton with tea. The old ohief and all
his family were assembled to see me eat, and many other Kirghis
were sitting round the yourt equally interested in my operations.
As the baron had sent a bottle of rum along with other good
things, I ordered the Cossack to hand it to me. I drew the cork,
intending to take a little in my tea ; before doing so, however, I
poured some into a small silver cup and handed it to my host,
expecting that it would afford him great pleasure. He looked at
it a moment, and then gave me the cup back without tasting a
drop; nor could he be induced to put it to his lips. I gave it to
the Cossack who had been my companion, and he drank the
liquor with muoh gusto ; I tried a little of it myself, and did not
find it bad. My audience looked aghast, apparently expecting
" Shaitan" to appear in person and claim me as his own. I drank
a second and a third tumbler of tea, with a little of the spirit, to

PRIMITIVE BUILDING. 231
their increased horror. It had now become quite dark, and my
evening meal having ended, all had left the yourt except the old
chief and his wife, who was wrapping up her children and pre
paring for the night. Mahomed dismissed our fireman, and then
made signs to see the cup. I gave it to him, and he wanted to
taste the rum. I instantly got the bottle and filled the small cup.
He looked round the yourt to see that all were gone, then drank
it off. While his sons and the people were present, he would not
touch the cup with his lips ; now he asked for a second taste ; I
gave him a small quantity with a liltie water, but this he did not
relish. The Cossack had prepared my bed of voilock, placed my
pistols under my pillow, then covered me up in my fur, and made
me snug for the night. Very soon all was still in the yourt, and
I fast asleep.
We were on our way before the herds left the aoul, going to
the north of our yesterday's track for a considerable distance
araong masses of rook projecting up above the steppe. They
were not blocks that had rolled down from an elevated site : these
stones were lying on their natural beds. I found several fine
seams of quartz ranning in perfectly straight lines toward the
mountains. After this the ground rose into mounds or small
hills, with stony crests, eaoh rising higher as we approaohed the
foot of the abrupt mountains above us. We now turned to the
south, riding along about a verst from the foot of the high rooks,
and had not gone far when we came upon a large enclosure sur
rounded by a thick wall built of very large blocks, with smaller
stones fitted in between them. This wall encloses a space of
almost a verst in length and half a verst in width, extending up
to the foot of some perpendicular roeks. It has been a work of
great labor, and must have been built by a different race from the
present, who look upon it with wonder. In some parts it is six
feet high, in others a little less, and seven feet thick. None of
the blocks have been cut.
We turned and rode up toward the mountain, and discovered
a part of the wall not more than two feet above the ground. I
leaped my horse over this, and was followed by the two Cossacks,
but nothing oould induce the Kirghis to enter this enclosure ; they
immediately turned back, and rode round the wall to the opposite
side. Continuing our ride toward the upper end, I saw near the
centre a great heap of stones, with a large cluster of pillars rising

232 FREAK OF NATURE.
out of tbem. In the distance this had all the appearance of a
rain. On coming close up I dismounted, and climbed over the
fallen blocks to the pillars, when I ascertained that they were
basalt, forming a precipice toward the mountain of more than one
hundred feet high. I visited some other large masses of rock,
but observed no indication of building within these walls. After
examining another mass of basalt, we rode toward the Kirghis,
who were standing in front of a gateway in the south wall. It is
probable that these walls were built to enclose the site for a temple,
and that war, or some other cause, stopped the project before the
foundations were laid — at least before the superstructure could be
raised. We rode on to the southwest, ascending a high ridge oovered
in parts with mossy turf; the other was bare rock. Having
gained the summit, we had a very extensive view of the steppe
stretching away forty or fifty versts toward another small chain
rising abruptly from the plain. Riding for about an hour, we
descended to the steppe on the western side of the IMouastery
Mountain, and then turned to the north. This was to be my
sketching-ground to-day; nor was I long in finding a subject;
and it so muoh resembled an old castle, that I rode up to it
before I could believe it to be one of Nature's edifices.
Our ride was continued to some high ground ranning down
into the steppe, when we came upon a splendid scene. In this
region Dame Nature has evidently been in one of her most frolic
some moods, having assembled together a most singular variety
of forms. On one side she has erected the rains of a fine old
Norman oastie, jutting on to the steppe, as if to guard her other
treasures. About three versts from this she has raised a pyramid
of red and gray porphyry more than seven hundred feet high.
In the distance are abrupt precipices rising from the plain, ciowned
by mountains and picturesque peaks. A brown grassy steppe
extends around the pyramid, completely isolating it from all other
large objects, giving full effect to the grandeur of its fine propor
tions, while numerous small mounds of red porphyry rise up near
its base. At some distance from these is a small salt lake bor
dered with orange and crimson plants, forming a beautiful frame
to the sparkling incrustations on its surface. The Cossacks and
myself tried to ascend the pyramid both on the south and east
sides, but discovered, after many efforts, that it was impossible.

ANCIENT SEA-BEACH. 233
Or. the south side I succeeded in ascending about two-thirds of
the height, but found it a far more difficult task to descend.
We then went to the west side, whioh is more abrupt, and con
tinued our ride to the north : this side appears less difficult; still,
I doubt if it would be possible to accomplish the ascent without
the aid of a strong line. On the south and west there is scarcely
a blade of grass growing ; on the north and east there is a little
vegetation in the clefts. About six versts from here there was
an enormous gap or cleft in the mountain, toward which we bent
our course. Riding along the steppe near the high precipices, I
could not help remarking how muoh they resembled the cliffs
near a sea-shore. The fallen rocks and gravel only required the
sea-weed to give this place the appearanoe of a sea-beach at low
water. As we rode on we passed headlands and small bays, some
running deep into the high ridge over which we had ridden in
the morning. We had now reached some very high precipices,
immediately beyond which I expected to gain access to the great
cleft, but ascertained that there was no possibility of approaching
the place from here, not even on foot, as the cliffs rose up almost
perpendicular nearly two hundred feet.
Our horses were put into a gallop, in the hope of finding a ra
vine or some other place by whioh we could reach the top. After
riding a short distance I stopped and made another sketch of this
curious region, during which time the Kirghis and Cossacks were
holding a council as to our further progress. When I had com
pleted the view, and was preparing to proceed onward, the Cos
sacks said, " Seevodny nilza" (To-day it is impossible) ; I was
informed that the country beyond this place had a bad reputa
tion, and that, should we continue our journey in this direction,
it would be dark before we could find a pass by which to cross
the Monastery Mountains. Our only plan was to return and try
to cross the western end of the ridge; if this could be done, we
might reach the aoul in three hours; if not, it would take us five.
The horses were good and fresh, we had not ridden them hard,
and they had rested every time I sketched. It was now foui
o'clock, the evening would soon be drawing in, and no time was
to be lost. We therefore rode along the steppe quickly, and one
of the Kirghis guided us toward a cove running into the moun
tains, bounded by very high cliffs. I could see no means of escape
from this place ; still he rode on, followed by our little party, and

234

DANGEROUS RIDING.

after going about two versts, turned past some high rocks, and
found ourselves at the mouth of a very rugged ravine.
Our guide dismounted, and we all followed his example, when
he took the reins of my bridle and began to ascend, leading the
two horses after him. I pushed on in front, and soon discovered
that the path was not easy for a biped, much less for a quadru
ped. None but Kirghis horses would have faced this broken and
rugged track, and no horse could have descended. We mounted
slowly, and at last reached the top without acoident. I was
muoh afraid some of the horses might slip and break their legs
between the rocks. We let them breathe about ten minutes, and
then sprang into our saddles, and away we went over a thick
mossy grass growing on the mountain slope. In less than half
an hour we came upon our track of the morning ; then, for about
three versts, we had to descend over loose stones, and this ren
dered our progress slow. Night was coming on fast when we
reaohed the steppe ; but here we had good ground to ride over,
and our horses were not spared, to the great joy of one of our
Kirghis, who flourished his whip and shouted with delight as we
bounded over the plain.
It was quite dark before we reached the aoul, where camels,
horses, and all the stock were at home resting. When the rum-
bottle was brought out I could see the twinkle in the old man's
eye. Again I handed him some in the cup, whioh I felt sure
would be rejected — I wag right — it passed to less scrupulous lips;
but the moment the sons and other Kirghis left the yourt, he made
signs to me for his portion. The first cup was not enough; itwas
drunk, and immediately held out for a second. Fancying this
might lead to mischief, I took a piece of stearine candle out of
my box, lighted it, and put it beside me. I then poured a small
quantity of rum into the cup, leaving it standing on my tea-box,
which I had placed before him. He looked into the cup and was
greatly dissatisfied with the quautity, asking for more ; I poured
a little into a teaspoon, and held it over the candle without letting
him see what I was doing. When the spirit caught fire I took
the cup, poured the burning fluid into the rum, and placed it
before him. As the blue flames curled up he looked perfectly
aghast, muttering something about Shaitan. After the flame
had burnt out I offered him another cup, but nothing could
induce him to touch it, even with his finger. I spent two more

INVASION BY ROBBERS. 237
nights at this aoul without even having induced him to taste rum
in tea.
About two o'clock in the morning the whole aoul became a
scene of intense alarm and confusion. When lying on the ground
everything is more distinctly heard than when sleeping even a
little above it, and I was awoke by a great noise, which appeared
to come from some subterranean cavern. At first I thought it
was the rambling of an earthquake, and instantly sat upright ;
the sound rolled on, approaching nearer and nearer ; presently it
passed, and the earth shook : it was the whole herd of horses
dashing past at full gallop. Now came shrieks and the shouting
of men, from which I at once knew that robbers had invaded the
aoid. It was but the work of a moment to seize the rifle stand
ing close to my head, and rush out of the yourt, when I beheld
the Kirghis, with their battle-axes in their hands, spring upon
their horses, and dash off toward the plaoe where we heard the
shouting. The herds were gallopping furiously round the aoul,
and the Cossacks were out with their muskets in their hands ; in
short, it was a scene of terrible confusion. Old Mahomed was
shouting with all his might ; the women and children were shriek
ing and ranning from yourt to yourt ; nor could we see what was
going on in the distance. Presently we heard the sound of horses
gallopping toward us, but whether friends or foes we knew not ;
in le.=is than two minutes a dark mass rushed past at full gallop,
about twenty paces distant, yelling forth shouts of deflance. I
could distinguish for an instant the heads of men through the
gloom, and the women shrieked out " the robbers;" in a moment
five balls whistled after them ; there was a scream from "a horse,
but we could hear that they gallopped on. Presently our Kirghis
went past in pursuit, by which time two Cossacks were mounted,
and off also.
There were not less than twenty men on the track of these rob
bers, who were somewhat encumbered by the horses they had
caught, and others they were driving off. After riding about a
verst the Kirghis came up to them, when they disoovered that the
banditti were three times their number, and prepared to defend
their booty. Our friends were now obliged to beat a retreat,
having no chanoe against such odds. It was our ai;ms that fright
ened these villains, or they would no' doubt have returned, and
made another attack on the aoul. I deeply regretted it was not

238

HORSES STOLEN. — PART RECOVERED.

daylight; had it been so, some of these desperate fellows would
have bit the dust, as they passed in one thick mass within pistol-
shot, and the rifles would have brought theui down at a long dis
tance. There was no more sleeping after this ; all were on the
alert, and the women and children much frightened. It was sup
posed that the rascals had got more than a hundred horses; but
at daylight several were observed feeding on the steppe, six or
seven versts distant, which had escaped in the dark, or when the
Kirghis rode up. Two of the tribe were sent to seek for any
other animals that might have been left, and in about two hours
returned, bringing back seventeen : the robbers had got off with
a hundred. The dogs and a boy on watch first detected them : a party had
got among, and were trying to divide the herd, intending to kill
the watchmen, and then sweep off a vast number in the eonfusion
which would ensue. This band of villains had undoubtedly been
lurking among some of the mountains to the west — raost probably
had been watching our movements when sketching the day before.
We had not been near enough for them to seize us, and if they
had failed in the attempt it would have put Mahomed on his
guard. It was quite certain that they had driven their plunder
off in this direction.
Notwithstanding this affair, I was still determined to follow up
my researches after the curious and picturesque in nature, which
I expected to find in the region beyond my ride of yesterday, and
three Cossacks and two Kirghis accompanied me. Our arms had
been examined to see that all was right. My pistols were not
carried in the holsters to-day ; I had them in my belt ; not that
there was any fear of our coming up with the large band who had
visited us in the night ; they would be far away with the horses ;
but it was thought that we might meet with a gang of ten or fif
teen remaining behind to pick up any horses that had escaped or
were left ; also to watch the movements of any party attempting
a pursuit, and lead them off the track.
We left the amd about eight o'clock, taking our course in a
straight line toward the point in the mountain we had crossed last
night : this would shorten our ride materially. As we rode on,
the Kirghis pointed out the route the robbers had taken, and after
we had passed the most distant point where the horses feed, we
had no difficulty in tracing the bandit track by the many indica-

A FEARFUL PATH. 239
tions left on the steppe.' Having reached the mountain, one of
the Kirghis said he could guide us to the great chasm I had tried
to reach yesterday, and afterward take us down to the steppe.
We turned toward the north, along the slope of the western side
of the mountain, and rode some two versts or more, when our
leader turned up a very abrupt part, to avoid a deep ravine it
was impossible to cross. We were soon among large blocks of
granite, tumbled about and lying in extraordinary confusion. A
little farther on we came upon pillars of basalt, forced up in curves
to a great height, and other rooks with horizontal strata butting
against them.
A little beyond this place our track was along the side of a
mountain of bare rocks, so fearfully steep that the guide, dismount
ing, led his horse along, and we all followed his example. A
stumble would have been fatal to man and horse ; nothing could
have saved either ; both must have been torn to pieoes by rolling
over the granite surface. There were about five hundred paces
of this fearful path to pass over. After this we reached a part
less steep, up whioh we ascended in an oblique direction, and
gained the summit. We crossed the ridge, and found the oppo-
¦ site side, also very steep, scooped out like an enormous crescent.
Down this we began to descend in a zigzag direction, but even
here had to use great care. In rather less than half an hour we
accomplished this last dangerous descent, and stood at the foot
of the mighty chasm — a mountain rent asunder by some terrific
power. I sat down and sketched this wonderful scene, with its
gigantic pillars of basalt.
From this place we descended toward the cliffs, and as we rode
along had a splendid view over the steppe toward the northwest,
which was uninterrupted for fifty or sixty versts. Small steppes
were seen running in among the hills, but in no part could we
see any signs of the robbers with their booty. They were most
probably concealed in some of the narrow steppes until evening,
when they would continue their march, or perhaps try their fortune
at some other aoul. Our ride was parallel with the cliffs for more
than three versts to the ravine, down which the Kirghis intended
to guide us to the steppe. When we reached the plaoe it was
found impossible to descend. We stood on the top of a precipice
nearly perpendicular; in some places itwas even overhanging,
and not less than five hundred feet high ; there was a complete

240

FRIGHTFUL ABYSS.

barrier; still the Kirghis persisted in saying we could get down.
He turned his horse and rode toward the mountains, while I exa
mined the wonderful scene beneath, vrith the brown steppe and
purple mountains in the distance. For a few weeks in the spring
these steppes are covered with rich grass, and a great variety of
flowers; large herds of horses, camels, oxen, and sheep are then
feeding and wandering over what now appears a solitary waste, as
no living thing, save our little party, could be seen. It was not
long before our Kirghis gave a shout; we rode up to him, and found
the track by whioh we must descend into the fearful abyss. Look
ing down, it appeared impossible to descend, unless the men and
horses were to hang on the rocks like flies. We dismounted,
when it was agreed between the Kirghis and the Cossack that the
horses should remain above until we had proved if it were pos
sible to take them down. Our guide, two Cossacks, and myself
walked over the brink, the Kirghis leading the way down the
bare rocks, which we found very difficult to scrarable over in
several places. At length we reached the bottom of the ravine,
when the Kirghis immediately ascended to aid in bringing down
the horses. In the mean time I proceeded up the ravine, and
at a short distance discovered a warm spring bubbling up in a
small rocky basin, the water flowing over, and running a short
distance, when it was lost again among the masses of fallen
rocks. A little farther up I found a large vein of rose quartz, seven
inches thick ; it was of a beautiful color, some of it quite trans
parent, showing splendid prismatic tints when held in the sun.
Without proper implements it was impossible to obtain a large
solid piece ; the specimens I gathered contained many fractures.
Having spent nearly an hour examining the rocks, in some I
observed small greenisb crystals of olivine, none of whioh I could
procure. By this time the horses had accomplished their hazard
ous descent, yet we had still sorae risks to ran before reaching the
steppe, as the bottom of the ravine was covered in many parts with
fallen blocks, rendering our progress very slow. More than an
hour was occupied in descending this ragged path, although not a
verst in length. About two hundred yards before reaching the
steppe we found positive proof that some persons had been
attempting to ascend by this ravine not many hours before. They
had returned back to the steppe, and continued their ride toward

KESSIL-TAS. 241
the south, most likely to the ravine by whioh we ascended last
night. Our Kirghis said there were eight or nine in this party,
and that probably there were some others among the hills not far
away ; had they gone up the ravine, we should undoubtedly have
met somewhere among these rugged rocks, greatly to the astonish
ment of both parties.
We now rode off toward the north, intending to go to " Kessil-
tas," or red stone, near the northern end of these high and rugged
peaks. Our route was across the steppe, over which we rode for
about three hours without finding anything interesting, and then
began to ascend a low ridge, which led us to the object of my
search — " Kessil-tas." I had seen this from a long distance, and
could not account for its brilliant red color. It is a mount of red
and brown porphyry, with white veins and blotches, most beauti
fully varied in color, and rises high above a steppe, which has once
been a large lake. At present there is an extensive sheet of
water near the centre of this plain, and the part which forms the
present steppe is little above the level of the water.
Having sketched these singular and beautifully-colored rocks,
it was time to think of returning toward our home, as we had a
long ride before us, part of it over a hilly country, and then across
a fine level steppe. While I had been engaged sketching, a great
change had taken place in the weather, and a cold wind was blow
ing, coming sometimes in sudden gusts. Clouds had long been
gathering over the summits of the Altai, and now the chain and
some of the nearer ridges were quite obscured. The Kirghis said
we should soon have a storm, and proposed riding fast to the aoul.
In rather more than an hour we had crossed the hills and were
riding over the steppe, when the gusts became more frequent and
stronger — a sure sign of an approaching tempest. We all cast
looks of suspicion toward the Altai, and then observed that all the
lower ridges rising from the steppe were obscured, while a dense
mass of black clouds, extending a long distance from north to
south, was rolling on toward us. We then looked wistfully
toward the aoul. The Mantilla Rocks could be seen, but they
were more than a three hours' ride away, and the storm was coming
fast over the steppe. I called a halt, secured my pistols in their
holsters, and had the rifle and gun put into their leathern cases — a
dienching being inevitable, and there was not a tree or a rock
under which we could receive the slightest shelter. We pushed on
16

242 TRAVELLING BY THE COMPASS.
at a good speed, fearing what we saw, and knowing that night was
fast approaching. The gusts of wind ceased, and for a short time
it was a perfect calm. Looking toward the black mass, I saw that
the clouds were in great commotion, while streams of vapor were
rising out of the dark body and whirling rapidly round. Presently
we heard a low murmuring sound, which gradually increased into
a roar as the storm came over the steppe ; our horses appeared to
be greatly alarmed. In a few minutes we saw the grass and some
low bushes twisted, torn up a few hundred paces in front of us,
and whirled up into the air with fearful rapidity. The horses
stopped suddenly ; then we heard a rushing sound as the whirl
wind passed. Fortunately for us, we escaped being caught in its
terrible vortex. Presently the gust came again with redoubled
fury ; then rain and sleet, which almost blinded us. It was now
nearly dark, which would shortly render it extremely difficult to
find our way.
Already the Kirghis differed in opinion with regard to the right
track. The Monastery Mountains and Mantilla Rocks were com
pletely obscured, and we had no landmark to guide us. Still I
felt convinced that we had kept too much to the west; perhaps
the storm blowing with so much fury from the east had driven
our horses out of the direct route. Every drop of rain, and the
great flakes whioh struck us, seemed immediately to penetrate to
the skin, and already we were as wet as if rising out of a river.
At last our two Kirghis came to a dead stand, being at a loss
which way to take. Although I had not taken the bearings of
the Mantilla Rocks, I knew perfectly well by the compass that we
ought to turn toward the east. Therefore, without farther consul
tation, I turned my horse in this direction, and rode on. We
were now facing the storm, which made our position worse, and I
had some trouble in keeping my horse to the proper point of the
compass. No doubt it seems a sttange idea to speak of riding one's
horse to the different points of the compass ; but those who travel
on the great steppes of Central Asia will soon discover the advan
tage of remarking the bearings of different objects, with the view
of finding a route either in the day or night. Blore than an hour
had elapsed since I had taken the direction of our course. I knew
that we had gone considerably to the east, and ought now to bs
at no great distance from the Mantilla Rooks; but nothing could
be seen even looming in the distance. Our position had becon-e

RETURN TO THE AOUL.

' 2 13

critical ; indeed, to remain all night on the steppe, exposed to such
a storm, would be our destruction. We listened for the barking
of a dog or the bellowing of a bull, but nothing could be heard
except the roaring of the blast, and the plashing of the rain as
the big drops struck us.

A GROUP OF MAHOMED'S KIRGHIS.

After riding slowly a short distance farther, hoping to hear
something that would guide us, one of the Kirghis recognised
some rocks, by which he at onoe knew our position, and also the
proper direction. He now led the way almost due east, and
directly toward tlie storm, saying the aoiil was not far away. We
had not ridden long before we came upon a group of camels, and
saw the light through the doorway of one of the yourts. Our
horses were quite tired out, and we were almost done up ; our joy,
therefore, was indeed great when we dismounted at the doors of
these voilock dwellings. Mahomed and the Cossaok had begun to
feel serious apprehensions for our safety. The yourt was cleared

244

TREMENDOUS GALE.

of its inmates in a few minutes while a dry shirt was put on, over
which I wrapped my fur cloak, tied round the waist with a scarf
I pulled on a pair of dry boots, and then sat down to my tea;
but, before drinking it, I gave a glass of ram to eaoh of the men
who had been my companions. Even the poor Kirghis drank it
without showing any of the quackery the old chief had displayed.
The kind old man returned to his yourt, ordered in fuel, and
a man to keep up a blazing fire. My clothing was hung up to
dry. The Cossack examined, wiped, and dried the arras, dnd
placed them secure from any chance drop whioh might find its
way through the voilock on sueh a night. The wind was blowing
a tremendous gale, and men and women were busy securing the
yourts with ropes and poles. Notwithstanding the sraoke was
puffed about, and sleet driven in, I was snugly wrapped in my
fur, and felt truly thankful for the shelter and comfort found in
a Kirghis yourt. No robbers would disturb us on such a night ;
indeed, the howling of the storm was so fearful, I expected to
see the yourt carried away. So long as the man kept up a blazing
fire I listened to the roar. At last the old ohief ordered the top
of the yourt to be closed and secured for the night. After this,
I was soon numbered among the sleeping.

CHAPTER XVIII.
RAMBLES AMONG THE KIRGHIS.
The weather this morning was cold, wet, and windy, with clouds
rolling over the mountain tops, making everything look gloomy
and miserable. I intended to leave my friend Mahomed this
morning early, but the rain detained us. He assured me that
after midday we should have fine weather, and was perfectly
right : before twelve o'clock the fog and clouds cleared off, and
the sun burst forth in all his splendor, giving the whole steppe a
warm autumnal appearanoe. I said adieu to my host and his
family, mounted my horse, and left with my escort and three
Kirghis, whom the old chief had sent to conduct me to the next
aoul. It was not known with any degree of certainty where we
should meet with one, the Kirghis being so erratic in their move-

ENCAMPMENT OF KIRGHIS. 245
ments, and seldom remaining more than eight or ten da s on the
sarae spot.
We expected to find the encampment at the foot of 3ne of the
small chains, about six hours' ride from my recent sojourn. Soon
after twelve o'clock we were on our way, riding in a southeasterly
direction, the Kirghis pointing toward a very distant mountain,
and saying that the aoul was there. Our route was over a steppe,
extending fifty or sixty versts, apparently unbroken either by ele
vations or depressions ; there was nothing to relieve the monotony
of this journey; hour after hour was travelled, and still we had
the same scene around us. In about five hours we began to look
out for the encampment, but nothing was to be seen. Nearly
another hour had passed, when I saw a large herd of horses to
the east; we tumed toward them, and rode on for some time,
when we met a Kirghis herdsman, who was driving his flocks
home, and he pointed out the aoul, lying between two hills six or
seven versts distant.
A Cossaok and a Kirghis were sent on to announce our arrival,
while we followed raore leisurely and examined the country,
which, as I observed, was broken into numerous low ridges, gra
dually rising toward the Altai. To thfe south the granite appears
again, crowning the hills like old castles. We had arrived within
a verst of our destination, when three Kirghis met us, and con
ducted me to a yourt prepared for my quarters, another close at
hand being set apart for the Cossacks, and here we slept.
This aoul belongs to a wealthy Kirghis, who was at this time
on a visit at another of his encampments, about fifty versts dis
tant to the southward, into whieh region this would be moved in
the course of three days. It was a raw and cold morning, with
heavy clouds hanging over the hills. Having still to cross part
of the Altai on my way into Siberia, I did not deem it prudent
to remain longer in the steppe. The Kirghis stated that there
was another aoul eight or ten hours' ride distant to the northward,
whioh would move away in a day or two ; and as it would be on
our way back to Oust-Kamenogorsk, it was determined that we
should sleep there. This encampment had also been visited by
the banditti, when seventy horses and five camels had been ear
ried off the night before they had waited upon Mahomed.
A small band had been seen in the hills to the north by one of
the herdsmen yesterday afternoon, which indue ?d him to drive

246 UNPLEASANT PROSPECT.
the horses homeward, and these people thought that we should
most probably fall in with them. Possibly they wished it, and
hoped that we should diminish their number, as they were keep
ing them in constant alarm. Our guides led us along the low
hills for several hours, when we descended to the steppe, over
which we rode for several hours. At last we reached a granite
ridge, with many picturesque groups on the summit, but the day
was too far gone to attempt sketching them. From the summit
the Kirghis expected to see the aoul, but it waS nowhere visible
on the steppe ; they then thought it might be among the hills,
and wished us to ride fast, or we should have great difficulty in
finding it after dark. As no one of us was desirous of spending
a night on these hills without food or shelter, no farther argu
ments were required, nor did we spare the horses. Hill after hill
had been passed, and still there was no sign of animal life. The
Kirghis seemed greatly perplexed, and thought the encampment
had been moved — a pleasant prospect for us, with a stormy night
in store ! We had already ridden more than seven hours, but
onward we must go at all risks. Perhaps, from the summit of
the next hill, we might see something to guide us to the remain
ing yourts, although the greater part of the aoul might be gone.
We had not yet gained the summit when one of the Kirghis
pointed to a herd of horses returning toward the encampment,
which we were now certain could not be far off, and in the direc
tion we were riding.
The man put his horse into a gallop, and presently reached the
ridge, when we knew, by the signs he made, that there was a
home for us in the valley. In less than half an hour we rode
into the encampment, to the great astonishment of all there.
The owner of this aoul was absent; still, the sheep was killed
and the feast made, much to the satisfaction of both Kirghis and
Cossacks. We had not been long in the yourt when the rain
and sleet came down so thick that we oould not see any object at
ten paces off. A large quantity of small brushwood was brought
in, and this time my fire was attended to by two women, as none
of the men, most probably, could be induced to leave the smoking
platters of mutton. I knew well that little, if any, would be
left, and therefore determined that the women should also have a
repast. The somervar -was still boiling; I made tea, and gave
them loaf-sugar and bread, when their countenances betrayed

NEW FEMALE ORNAMENT. 249
signs of genuine astonishment and pleasure. The first tumbler
of tea being drunk, I handed them a second and a third, to their
great delight. My fire was kept in a constant blaze, and the top
of the yourt several times changed, to prevent the smoke remain
ing inside. By their excellent management it was kept free of
this annoyance, notwithstanding that it was a terrible night.
As I sat writing up my journal, my companions were much
interested, as no man among their tribes, excepting the MuUa,
oould either read or write. The book was a wonder to them, and
they looked upon me as a very wealthy Mulla, being possessed of
what they considered a large book, full of amulets. The Mulla
sells his amulets to them at a sheep for eaoh scrap of paper, with
a few characters traced upon it. Bly ring was examined, my
knife also, and a piece of red sealing-wax made a wonderful effect.
I got out a candle, made a seal on a piece of thick paper from
my sketch-book, and presented it to one of them. When I put
the wax away without making a seeond seal, the other woman
looked quite miserable ; observing her disappointment, I produced ¦
another seal, and she was happy. These will, I have no doubt,
adorn their caps, and create a feeling of envy in the breast of
many a Kirghis damsel. The opposite plate represents a group
of Kirghis, with two brides in their marriage costume ; the mu
sician was the chief of a band of robbers.
When the feast was ended, several of both sexes came into the
yourt, and sat round watching everything I did. As I noticed
that they were observing me wind up my watch, I held it to the
ear of a woman sitting near ; she evidently thought it was alive
and talking, for she told her companion so, and they all wished to
hear it speak. A Kirghis yourt is not the plaoe in which any
person would wish to keep late hours, and more particularly on
such a night as this. So long as a fire is buming, the aperture
at the top of the yourt must be open to let out the smoke ; at the
same time, it lets the snow, wind, and rain in, whioh render the
plaoe anything but comfortable. The Cossacks sent all our visit
ors to their own dwellings, and ordered the top to be secured ;
this made a wonderful difference ; the apartment became snug
and warm, feeling all the more so as we lay listening to the howl
ing of the wind and the pattering of the rain against the voilock.
In time, this music lulled me to sleep, from which nothing dis<

250 CUNNING OF WOLVES.
turbed me until daylight the next morning ; soon afterward I was
again on my travels. ,
I had three Kirghis, and this time five spare horses, to enable
us to change and ride fast. It was a cold, windy morning, with
.dark, murky clouds blowing across the sky, decidedly intimating
that the day would be squally. Soon after leaving the yourts we
descended toward the steppe, each of us, as we rode slowly down
the hill, casting a suspicious glanoe at the black masses of vapor
hanging over and covering the higher peaks of the Altai, these
clouds looking blacker and more terrible by oontrast with the pure
white of the snow beneath. In less than an hour we were riding
rapidly over what might almost be called a sea of dry grass. Track
there was not; bat our route was toward the northeast, and we
were now leaving the hills and entering upon the vast plain. This
is a most uninteresting season for a ride across these steppes, for
the grass has all been eaten up, and the dwarf bushes cropped
and spoiled of their foliage; there were no flowers, the sharp
frosts having cut down leaves and blossoms.
Having ridden somewhat more than two hours, our horses were
changed ; we were thus able to keep up the speed, and give the
other horses a rest : this mode is often adopted by the Kirghis
when going a long journey. As the day advanced the wind
became still more cold and piercing, with occasional snow-storms,
giving to the country a most gloomy aspect. While riding along,
one of the Kirghis pointed out flve wolves not more than a verst
from us, making their way along the stepp^ toward the south.
The winter had driven them from the mountains ; they were evi
dently out on a foraging excursion, and woe betide the poor horse
they should fall in with, as they would ran him down without a
chance of escape. I have been told of the great cunning they
display in the chase : if there be a morass near, they keep on the
opposite side of their victim, heading him a little, and gradually
forcing him toward it, till at length they drive him on to the soft
and treacherous ground, when the first stumble or flounder he
makes is his certain doom.
We had passed several little brooks that were much swollen by
the rain in the mountains, and had come upon one twenty-five or
thirty yards wide, running in a deep channel cut through the sand
and gravel. It was difficult to find a practicable descent to the
water, but at last we succeeded ; still, we had to ride some dis-

A COLD BATH. 251
tance up the stream, which was not deep, to a place on the oppo
site side, where there seemed a possibility of ascending the bank.
A Kirghis led, I followed ; but the moment my horse had got his
hind feet out of the stream, the bank gave way, and plunged me
into the water nearly overhead : this and his floundering splashed
the water over me so mnch that I was completely saturated ou a'
cold and wintry day in October, and that without a rag of dry
clothing to put on, or any place in which to take shelter. The
Cossacks instantly examined my rifle and pistols : they were found
dry; the leathern case had protected one, and the holsters the
other. My long shooting-boots were drawn off and the water
poured out, but it was with great difficulty they were got on again.
While this was being done the rum bottle was produced ; fortu
nately, there was about half a tumbler of ram in it, a liberal por
tion of which I swallowed. We then mounted our horses and rode
on fast, and this kept my blood in circulation.
For my especial consolation, one of the Cossacks said it would
take us six or seven hours to ride to the Irtisch : there was no
help for it, as our only chance was to push on for that river as fast
as possible. After riding about four hours, we reaohed the foot
of the hills whioh separated us from the valley in which the
river runs. These were too abrupt for a rapid ride, therefore we
ascended slowly ; and now I began to feel the effects of my wet
ting. It had become dusk some time before we reached the top
of the ridge ; as we crossed it night fairly set in, and it became
quite dark from the'black clouds which were rolling rapidly over
the sky. Presently we had sudden gusts of wind, which soon
became a gale. Our descent in the dark was also slow, and as
yet we had not seen a light at Oust-Kamenogorsk. However, the
'mystery was very soon solved : we were enveloped in a snow-storm
so thick that we could see but a very short distance. Before we
reached the plain the storm had passed, but the wind was terrific.
The .Cossacks said that no person could cross the Irtisch on
such a night ; they therefore proposed seeking an aoul, whioh
they knew was only a few versts distant along the foot of the
mountain. We therefore rode on at a sharp trot, and were shortly
greeted by the dogs. I believe we one and all thought these sounds
had something celestial in them, as they were borne softly on the
¦wind, apparently inviting us to shelter. We were not long in
reaching the yourts, into several of which the Cossack went

252 AN ANCIENT BELLE.
before I dismounted. At length my horse was led to the side of
a large one, when I found it difficult to get off and enter. This
place we found warm and comfortable. My wet clothing was at
once stripped off, and I was wrapped in a fur ; a good fire was
kept up, and tea made, of which I drank a great quantity ; but
long before morning I felt that I was doomed for a spell of fever.
As soon as it was daylight a man had been sent to call for the
boats. We followed, but I could not mount my horse without
assistance. The men placed me in the boat, and rowed over as
quickly as possible, when I was conveyed to my kind friends,
who sent instantly for the doctor, and again I passed through the
ordeal of a Russian bath and bleeding.
On the eleventh day I was moving about again, and improving
rapidly. During my illness there had been much rain in the
valleys ; on the mountains there had been snow, whioh I could
see from my windows : no pleasant prospect, as I must cross those
elevations before I could reach my winter quarters. The baron
and his wife did everything they could to improve ray health, and
if eating and drinking could have done it, they would soon have
made me well and strong. They had accepted an invitation to a
bal] for me, and would take no excuse, as the doctor had given his
consent to my going — to look on, but not to take a part in it. In
Oust-Kamenogorsk they have not yet learned to keep late hours,
for at seven o'clock all were assembled. The ball was given by
a merchant, and the whole society of this little town mustered to
do him honor. There were about fifty persons present, perhaps
three or four more ladies than gentlemen ; some gayly dressed in
Chinese silks, splendid in color, although I cannot say much for
the taste in their selection. When standing together they looked
like a bed of tulips. There was one lady sixty years old, who
was dressed like a young girl of twenty. Her head was bedecked
on one side with white cut-glass beads, on the other with green
glass drops, most probably intended for chandeliers. On her neck
she wore a chain, with a large square brooch suspended from it,
also of green glass. She had bracelets on her arms studded with
yellow glass, and round her waist a girdle with the same material
With her pink dress, gray gloves, yellow shoes, and decorations,
she was one of the most curiously costumed ladies I ever met.
She was the wife of the stadt-doctor — apparently a very respect
able man, wearing several decorations, and has on more than one

SIBERIAN BALL. 253
occasion entered the church, wearing his orders, on the greatest
fStes of the emperor, when every officer is obliged to attend in full
uniform. Her farae has extended far. I once happened to speak
in a society of persons, at least two thousand versts away from her
abode, of her curious costume, when an officer present recognised
the original. I asked if he knew the lady, and he exclaimed,
" Not know her 1 Why, I should sooner think of going to Rome
and return without seeing the Pope, than go to Oust-Kameno
gorsk without making the acquaintance of Blarie Ivanovna!"
Shortly after our arrival I remarked that the ladies took pos
session of one room, sitting round it without speaking a word.
This was a most extraordinary scene — a social phenomenon never
heard of. I mentioned it to my friend, and inquired if it was
usual ; he replied, " No, not when at home, as their husbands can
testify." These gentlemen were in another room, preparing for
the dance by frequent application either to wine or Siberian nalif
ka : they were noisy enough. The music struck up, when a
lady and gentleman oame forward and danced a Russian dance
beautifully, representing the caprice of two lovers. After this
came a quadrille, and then Marie loanovna and a Cossack officer
performed a Cossack dance, in whioh both were inimitable.
There are, indeed, few young girls who oould in this accomplish
ment have excelled this old lady of sixty ; I have never seen her
equal. The ball continued; many persons danced well, but not
one could make any approach to Marie Ivanovna. The evening
ended with an excellent supper, in which our hostess displayed
unbounded hospitality. Here was no stiffness or ceremony ; the
company had met together to enjoy themselves, and all appeared
quite happy.
A few nights after, the baroness received all the good people at
her house, dancing as usual a number of national and Cossack
dances, and beautiful they were. We had the choir from the
church, who sang many very fine Russian songs and choruses with
great effect. The Cossack band had played some good music
during the evening ; after supper the commandant ordered them
into the entrance-hall, when they sang some of their songs. More
wild music I never heard. He led thera, and sang well, giving
great force and effect to their national music. Among the Cos
sacks, the officers and even the colonel will join the men in their

254

EXTENSIVE VIEWS.

songs. Their music is singularly effective, particulariy while sit
ting round a camp-fire in a wild country.
It was not till after dinner that I was allowed to depart, and
left in a light carriage with four horses, driven by a Cossack.
Although snow had fallen, the roads were still soft, and it was
easy to see that we were about to have a terrible joumey. About
four versts from Oust-Kamenogorsk, on a long wooden bridge, I
crossed the River Ouba, which here is a large and rapid stream.
I had been over it before on my way to Riddersk, where it was a
small brook. A short distance from the bridge there is a fine
view of the Cholsoun chain, whieh was now sparkling like a ruby
under the setting sun. As we proceeded, the horses began to
show symptoms of distress, frequently coming to a dead stand,
and the road, for several stations, was horrible and uninteresting.
I shall not soon forget the road between Praporschika and Kras-
noiarska, a distance of about seventy-five versts. On descending
the hill toward the latter village a splendid view open.s, looking
over the River Irtisch into the Kirghis Steppe. The river at
this point is divided by small islands into several channels, in
whioh it runs winding about on the plain; and far away in the
distance a small and very picturesque mountain chain rises abruptly
from the steppe.
Hitherto the road has been along the east bank of the Irtisch,
over low hills, probably three and four hundred feet above the
river, affording extensive views over the vast steppe to the south
and westward. From this point my track' leaves the Irtisch, and
runs eastward, skirting the Altai chain. As we descended into
the valley of the River Ouba the scenery became highly interest
ing, and from one point, a short distance from the village of
Widricka, I sketched a beautiful view. The river winds up a
narrow valley between high mountains, in some places running
at the foot of lofty precipices, whence it enters a broad valley ex
tending down to the Irtisch fifty or sixty versts to the westward.
We changed horses at Widricka, where the people strongly
urged me to remain the night, on account of the bad roads, which
would soon be rendered still more difficult by the snow-storm they
saw approaching from the mountains.
When we reached the valley the men put on all their speed,
and the wind and snow became fearful. It was dark before we

CROSSING A FERRY. 255
reached the ferry. Here was another difficulty : with such a wind,
the ferryman declared it was impossible to cross.
Thus we appeared to be doomed to sit on the Ouba, perhaps
more impatient than the spirits on another famed river; but our
ferrymen were more amiable than Charon, for they kindly invited
me to sleep in their yourt near a good fire. Just at this time a
number of peasants came up, also wishing tc cross. I desired
the Cossaok to say that I would give them some money if they
would aid in taking us over the river. There was a consultation
for some minutes among the whole party of ferrymen and peasants,
and at length they decided upon running the risk of being drowned
for two rubles, I taking my chanoe along with them. They set
about it at once, and began hauling the ferry-boat up the stream
far beyond the usual place for starting, to counteract the force of
the wind, which would otherwise carry us past the point where
we ought to land, and then we should be taken far away down the
stream. Muoh argument was used among them ; at last they
reached a point supposed to be far enough above the ferry, and
pushed off into the stream. For two or three minutes we were
sheltered under the bank; but, having got a little distance into
the river, the wind caught us, the horses and carriage acted as a
sail, and we were taken down the stream at a great speed. The
men pulled and shouted loud enough to silence any ordinary hur
ricane ; unfortunately, the one ooming was of a stern and obsti
nate character, whioh would neither be frightened nor appeased.
Down it drove us with all its malignant fury. M'hen within about
thirty yards of the landing-place, we all pulled, straining every
nerve. To the great joy of all, we succeeded, but it took us more
than an hour to cross. It was only a short distance to the station,
and farther we could not proceed in the night.
The road turns off into the hills immediately on leaving this
station, when we began a steep and long ascent. There was a
istrong cold wind blowing, and a little snow falling, and again the
road was over rounded hills, without any remarkable scenery.
This part of the country was better cultivated than any other
region I had yet seen in the Altai. There are extensive tracts
of corn-land here, from which very abundant crops are obtained.
I saw hundreds of acres with the corn-shocks still standing, and
covered with snow. In some places they were taking the sheaves
to the threshing-floor, where great numbers of the peasants were

256

THRESHING. — WOLVES.

occupied threshing out the oom ; others were dressing it : an
operation best performed by a strong wind, and this was a splen
did day for it. Men are constantly employed bringing the corn
and chaff from the threshing-floor, whioh they throw upon one
heap. On each side of this a man stands, having a small wooden
shovel with a long handle ; with these implements they throw
i".p in moderately quick succession a small quantity to the height
of twelve to fifteen feet, when the wind blows the chaff, sand,
and seeds away, and the good grain falls on one heap. Even by
tnis rade process the grain is moderately well cleaned. Although
H was snowing fast, this did not interfere with their operations,
which are all done in the open air.
On reaching the summit of one of these hills, I observed three
wolves standing about five hundred paces from the road. I stepped
out of the carriage, hoping to get a shot ; but before I was near
enough to make sure of 'any one of them, they went off with a
long swinging pace. A ball which I sent after them struck near
one, who made a spring in advance of the others, when they all
gallopped away. Soon after we descended into a very broad
valley, in which rise some remarkable rocks. When we reached
the station, a man was pointed out to me said to be a hundred
and two years old. He was in perfect health, possessed all his
faculties, and had walked a considerable distance just before I
saw him.
After leaving the station we shortly arrived at a far more
interesting part of the road, whioh affords several beautiful views
of the mountains about Riddersk, the Cholsoun chain, and the
country near the Bouohtarma River. Cold as it was, I made a
sketch, and regretted I had not time to make more. A few versts
beyond the point whence this was taken, we made our last change
of horses before reaching Zmeinogorsk. From this station the
road continued to ascend over several high ridges destitute of
wood. Altogether it was a very bleak country, rendered tenfold
more so by the cold cutting wind and the snow driving in our
faces, my thermometer showing 15° Reaumur of frost. As we
ascended higher the weather became muoh worse, and we met a
tremendous wind, with small snow, which found its way through
our clothing with extraordinary facility. Bad as this storm was,
the drivers went on at a good speed, over a hard frozen road that

A SIBERIAN BOURAN. 257
gave us a terrible shaking, notwithstanding which they gallopped
down the hills at full speed.
Just at dark we arrived at Zmeinogorsk ; in a few minutes I
was installed in my comfortable room at the house of the director,
who gave me a most cheering welcome. " You have had a taste
of a ' Siberian bouran,' " he observed. I candidly owned the
flavor .was far from agreeable, and that I had no desire to dine
upon it : my eyes,- mouth, and ears had been filled with snow.
Hc also thought it would be much worse through the night, and
most probably prevent me continuing my journey to Barnaoul.
Even now I could not cross the hills with the carriage, whioh
accounted for the speed and anxiety of the drivers to reach the
Zavod. I inquired if they would attempt to return during the
bouran, and was told itwas impossible; both men and horses would
perish before they had proceeded one quarter of the distance.
I spent a very agreeable evening witH my friend and his amia
ble wife, giving them a short account of my journey among the
Kirghis, and hearing from them several anecdotes of these fearful
storms. I mentioned the two claps of thunder I had heard yes
terday, and was assured that such was not a rare occurrence, as
it not unfrequently happens when the weather breaks up. As
the director had anticipated, the bouran increased in its fury
during the evening, making the window-shutters and doors rattle,
and the house shake. No Zavod in the Altai is so exposed to
the effects of these terrible storms as Zmeinogorsk, as it stands
on very high ground, overlooking the vast steppe to the west
ward, from which point of the compass the great storms usually
blow. They are also as sudden as they are furious, which often
causes loss of life. My friend mentioned a circumstance that
occurred to himself a few years ago. The church is erected on
a wide open space on the summit of a hill ; on one side stand*
the house of the director, and almost directly opposite are the
dwellings of several officers. In front there is an open space ex
tending three or four hundred yards to some buildings connected
with the silver mines. From one corner of this a street extends
for more than a verst toward the smelting-works in the valley,
and at the east end of the church there is a large space, in which
a market is held every Sunday morning, when the peasants from
the villages bring in their produce for sale.
The distance from the door of the director's house to the door
17

258

SAD SPECTACLE.

of the church does not exceed ote hundred and fifty paces. One
fine Sunday morning my friend went to the church, and remained
during the service, which is usually over in less than two hours.
While the congregation were solemnly engaged in their religious
duties, some foul fiend in the storm department was not less
actively occupied in blowing up a bouran, in whioh piece of mis
chief he was pre-eminently successful, for when the congrejjation
left the church, they were met at the entranSe by this terrible
blast, with its clouds of snow almost as fine as ^our. From the
church gate my friend turned to the left direct for his own house,
when he was whirled around, blinded, and twisted about to such
a degree that he could not even find the building, which is not a
small one. At last, after being blown by the wind first in one
direction, then in another, he was driven up against a cottage,
and succeeded in finding the door. On entering, he discovered
that he had wandered nearly a verst from his home, but was com
pelled to remain till the wind moderated. This, I was told, was
no uncommon event.
In the account of my journey down the Irtisch I have spoken
of the Cossaok pickets, and a road which rans along the frontier.
This is travelled by the officers and men both in summer and
winter, and my friend has frequently to visit the mines at both
seasons of the year. On one occasion he was on his way to
Zirianovsky in the winter, and crossed the Altai Mountains in
his sledge toward the Bouohtarma, travelling from one Cossack
station to another, where he changed horses. One evening, a
little before night set in, he was stopped at one of the stations
by a bouran, and here remained the night, during whioh the
storm raged with terrible fury. The following day it subsided,
when he proceeded on his journey. A few versts from the next
station he saw several Cossacks standing together a short distance
from his track. Fearing something had happened, he stopped
his sledge, got out, and went over to them, when a sad spectacle
was presented to him : it was a Cossaok and his horse frozen to
death, whom they were digging out of the snow. The poor
fellow had left the station before the bouran commenced, and it
had caught him, most probably, when about half way, which
induced him to drive on, hoping to reach his home. No doubt
the horse had taken him on until probably after he was dead, as
the Cossaok was sitting perfeotly upright in his sledge, with both

BARNAOUL. 259
hands holding the reins, his head erect, and looking straight
toward the head of his horse. When he ceased speaking or
moving the reins, the horse must have stopped, and was soon frozen
stiff in his upright position. My friend said, when looking at
them a few paces distant, it was difficult to believe that they
were not living, and that he expected every moment to see the
Cossack shake the reins, and the horse spring forward.
Next morning the wind had moderated a little, when I started
for Barnaoul, and had a terrible joumey, only reaching the banks
of the Ob on the third day in the afternoon. At a point where
the view to the eastward is uninterrupted as far as the eye can
see, appears one vast forest of dark pines.
While travelling I was suddenly muoh amazed by a bright
crimson color spreading over the pine-trees ; at first the distant
pines were tipped with the tint, then the tops of the nearer trees,
showing against the dark purple beyond, like fiames of fire.
This was directly opposite to the sun, around whioh there was
no crimson, but a deep yellow: I stopped the driver that I might
watoh this strange appearance. The color approached nearer and
rested upon the trees, growing on the banks of the Ob, whioh
seemed a town created by magic, beautifully reflected in the
water. Even my men looked with surprise at this singular
effect : it was plain they had never seen such a phenomenon
before. At six o'clock we reached Shadrina, the last station before
Barnaoul; and not till half past twelve o'clock next day, in con
sequence of not finding horses ready, and owing to the badness
of the road, did I find myself at my destination.

CHAPTER XIX.
BARNAOUL.
A FRIEND advised me to take a Siberian bath without delay,
and stew out the effects of wet, frost, and thumps ; for many a
man has come out of an Irish row at Donnybrook with fewer
bruises than I had to exhibit, the rocks of the Oural and Altai
having stamped their seals upon me in strong and enduring
characters.

260 BARNAOUL IN THE SPRING.
Having adopted the steaming process, I turned out next morn
ing fresh, in good health, freed from the pain of every kick or
bruise, and with the full conviction that there is nothing in the
world equal to a Siberian bath after such a journey.
This, the first day of November, was terribly stormy, with a
fierce bouran driving the snow about like flour. It requires no
small effort to close a man's jaws when a bouran has caught him
in the teeth. I speak from experience, having more than once
been nearly choked with the wind and snow before I oould turn
my head for shelter. This is not the season to see Barnaoul to
advantage, though it is to enjoy its society and hospitality; for
many of the officers, whose duties take them into the mountain
regions, have returned to their comfortable and truly hospitable
homes. Passing by the long winter, I will speak of Barnaoul in the
spring-time — I ought to call it early summer. Here the whole
labor of spring is executed in three or four days at most, so rapid
is the growth of vegetation when the snow is gone. This town is
built on the banks of the small river Barnaulka, where it falls into
the Ob; and until vrithin the last thirty or forty years, nearly all
its buildings were of wood; even now there are but few dwellings
built of briok ; the streets are wide, and laid out in parallel lines,
and crossed at right angles by others ; the soil on which they are
built is a deep bed of fine sand, which renders the plaoe rather
disagreeable in summer. There are three brick churches, and not
one has any architectural merit. A large hospital, simple in its
style, contains spacious and well-ventilated wards for the sick
workmen, where they receive every attention and comfort, but
their wives and children are not admitted.
The silver sraelting works are on a great scale : these operations
are conducted in a very large building, under the care of most
intelligent officers, who carry on the different processes in a
thoroughly practical and scientific manner. It may be said with
perfect safety that the Russian mining engineers, as a body, stand
pre-eminent at the present day. No class of men in the empire
can approach them in scientific knowledge and intelligence.
Amono- them are many in these distant and supposed barbarous
reo-ions who could take their stand beside the first savans in
Europe as geologists, mineralogists, and metallurgists.
In these works two hundred and fifty poods of silver are pro-

CARAVANS. 261
duced annually — about nine thousand pounds English weight.
The whole produce of the silver mines in the Altai up to the year
1855 never exceeded one thousand poods, or thirty-six thousand
pounds. To produce this quantity, fifty thousand poods of lead
were evaporated. In 1850, twelve thousand poods of English
lead were sent to Barnaoul to aid in this process. Sinoe that
period both silver and lead ore have been found in the Kirghis
Steppe in large quantities. All the gold got in Siberia must be
sent to Barnaoul to be smelted, excepting the portion whieh is
obtained in the Yablonay Mountains, and that is smelted in Nert
schinsk Zavod. Gold mines are worked on the Olekma and other
rivers near Yakoutsk, in the Saian Mountains, and many in the
government of Yenissey, where some of the richest mines of
Siberia exist. The government of the Tomsk also supplies a
large portion, but the crown is proprietor of most of the mines
in the Altai. There are some in this region worked either by
companies or private individuals, very few pf whom have become
rich. In Eastern Siberia the gold-washing begins the first week in
May, and ends on the tenth of September, when all the workmen
must be paid off and sent to their horaes : some have to walk as
many as two thousand versts. The rich miner sends his gold
away onoe a year, most of which arrives in Barnaoul in the begin
ning of October; but those who are not rich send it twice in the
year — the first part in the beginning of July, and the second
when the works are closed in September. When it is delivered
to the authorities in Barnaoul it is considered the property of the
crown, and the miner has no more control over it. Here the gold
is smelted and cast into bars, ready to be forwarded to the capital ;
but, before the miner receives his share of the value, -it has been
in the possession of government five months. Six caravans leave
Barnaoul with the precious metals every year — four in winter by
the sledge roads, and two during the summer. The first winter
caravan leaves early in December, and reaches St. Petersburg
before the end of January; the others follow in succession. Two
officers and a small guard of soldiers are sent with eaoh caravan,
and the gold and silver are delivered by them at the Mint.
Although both metals have been assayed by the proper officer in
Barnaoul, and the proofs sent to the Mint, it is again assayed, to
prevent the possibility of a bar being changed on the transit.

262

GOVERNOR OF TOMSK.

The silver obtained in the Altai contains a small portion of
gold, with a minute quantity of copper. These metals are not
separated in Siberia ; they are sent in pieces, about fourteen inches
square, by one and a half inch thick, and the gold is extracted
at the Mint in St. Petersburg. About thirty poods of gold is
extracted from a thousand poods of silver, the whole annual pro
duce of the Altai silver mines. The greatest quantity of gold
obtained in Siberia in any one year was about seventy-five thousand
Russian pounds; this was considered enormous, but California
and Australia have made it appear small in comparison. There
is much of the gold regions yet unexplored, both in Northern and
Eastern Siberia.
Barnaoul is the centre for the administration of the mines of
the Altai. The Governor of Tomsk is at the head of this depart
ment, and in order that he may be fully qualified for such an im
portant position, he is invariably chosen from the mining engineers.
Once in two years he must visit every raine and smelting work in
the Altai. Part of the year he resides in Tomsk, where his
duties as governor require much tirae and attention ; three or
four months he resides in Barnaoul, where he must be in May,
when a board of the principal officers meet daily, and arrange
plans for working the mines until the next year. All arrange
ments are proposed at this board, whioh sits during the whole
month of May, but they are subject to the governor's approval.
The Natchalnik, or ohief Director of the Mines, resides in
Barnaoul. This officer is responsible for the proper working of
the mines, and every department is under his control. Once in
the year he must visit every smelting work, iron work, gold mine,
and silver mine ; to accomplish this, he must travel more than
six thousand versts annually, mostly in a mountainous country;
sometimes in a carriage, often on horseback ; also must descend
the rivers on rafts, in boats, and in canoes, where he is often ex
posed to much risk and danger, to say nothing of the drenchings
he receives from flood and rain. Every officer and man in the
Altai is under him, and must obey his orders . this gives him
immense power. Besides the officers, he has about sixty-four
thousand people belonging to the mining districts under his
charge. These are spread far and wide, both on the plains and
on the mountains of Siberia, and such an assemblage requires
much care to keep in proper order. Still, after visiting both

EXPLORING PARTIES. 263
Eastern and Western Siberia, and some parts of Russia, I must
say that the mining population of the Altai are more wealthy,
cleanly, and surrounded with more comforts than any other peo
ple in the empire. Convicts have not yet been sent to work
in the mines of the Altai.
There are many very superior officers at the head of the difl'er-
ent departments in Barnaoul ; also as resident officers at the smelt
ing works, copper works, iron works, and mines. Every summer
eight or ten young officers are sent into the mountains, each with
a party of from forty to sixty men, and the chief in Barnaoul
assigns to him the valley or part to be examined by his company :
in May they begin their operations. The region they are sent to
must be thoroughly explored ; they go properly provisioned, with
dried black bread, sugar, tea, and wodky ; their meat consists of
such wild animals as they can procure, and as each party possesses
good hunters, plenty of game is usually obtained.
A map is given to every officer of the vaUey his party are di
rected to search. Some of the men are employed digging holes
about six feet square, which they sink to the bed of sand and
gravel containing the gold ; this is often found at from five to ten
feet below the surface. After the upper earth and stones are re
moved, the sand is dug out, a sufficient quantity washed to test
its value, and the officer notes down how many zolotnicks of gold
could be obtained from one hundred poods of sand. Another
hole is sunk fifty or sixty paces distant, and proved in the same
manner; and they go on ascending the valley, digging out at
such distances as may be deemed necessary to explore thoroughly
the gold deposit. The specimens of gold got from each hole are
numbered, corresponding to a number on the plan, and this ena
bles the director in Barnaoul to decide if there is sufficient gold
deposited in this valley to pay for working.
During the period that one party of the men are seeking for
gold, the officer employs others in examining the rooks in search
of silver ore; at the same time specimens of the rock are col
lected, and the different groups marked on the plan. These
operations are usually concluded by the middle of October, when
the offieer and two or three of the miners return to Barnaoul,
bringing with them the different specimens collected ; the other
men return to their different villages. On arriving at the Zavod,
the offieer and miners select and classify the different specimens

DOCTOR GABLER.
of rock and minerals, ananging them in the order shown on the
map. These are afterward examined by the Chief of the Mines,
who has long been engaged in constructing a geological map of
the Altai, which, when completed, will be one of the best ever
laid down by any geologist, very few having had the same facili
ties for such a work.
There is a good laboratory, under the management of two offi.
cers, where the gold and silver are assayed, and all other chemical
and mineralogical operations are earried on. There is also a mag
netic observatory on the north side of the town, with proper
officers to register the observations day and night : these are trans
mitted, at stated periods, to the proper authority in St. Peters
burg. For many years Doctor Gabler was the Inspector of the Hospi
tals in the Altai, which office he filled with great advantage to
the peasantry and to all under his charge. He was also a distin
guished naturalist, and possessed a choice collection of Siberian
and other insects. His fame has reached Europe; there are some
even of my own countrymen to whom he was known, by speci
mens he sent to different museums and to his correspondents.
The doctor's collection consisted of more than seventeen thousand
specimens. I spent many happy hours in his company during
my first visit to Barnaoul. On his journey of inspection to the
different mines he had visited inany interesting places in the Altai,
and from him I gathered muoh information relative to my joumey
in these regions. He died in 1850, after having lived more than
thirty years in Siberia, and left three sons in service in different
departments of the mines. His splendid collection of insects has
sinoe been sold.
There is a museum in Barnaoul containing a good collection of
minerals, some of them very choice specimens ; also a few Sibe
rian antiquities, four tiger skins, stuffed, and a few Siberian ani
mals and birds, also stuffed. The tigers were killed in Siberia at
different places, some at a distance of about five hundred versts
from Barnaoul ; they had come from the Kirghis Steppe, and
crossed the Irtisch into the Altai in the region around Bouchtar-
minsk. Their capture in two instances proved fatal to some of
the peasants engaged in it, while others were seriously injured;
for, unfortunately, the men had no idea of the powerful enemy
they had to grapple with. Pea-rifles and hayforks are but poor

BATTLE WITH A TIGER. 265
weapons against the fangs and talons of these enormous brutes.
They are rarely found in Siberia ; it is only when they are driven
from the steppe by hunger that they cross the Irtisch — most pro
bably when following the track of their prey : many peasants do
not even know them by name. The last was discovered early one
morning lying on the top of a small hayrick near the village by a
peasant going to fetch hay for his horses, who beheld with won
der and alarm the formidable beast crouohing with glaring eyes ;
at the same moment his dog, catching sight of him, gave a loud
bark, and dashed toward the rick. With a fearful growl the
tiger sprung to the ground ; the dog met him without fear, but
was crushed in a moment. The man ran toward the village,
where he gave the alarm, and presently returned with a group of
friends — three armed with pea-rifles, others with hayforks and
axes; and they were followed by several dogs. On approaching
the rick, they were made acquainted with the position of the
enemy by a furious growl; the dogs charged instantly; he, how
ever, only crouched, and did not spring. One of the men then
sent a small ball through his hide, which roused him, and at one
bound he threw himself among the dogs, killing two in an instant
by strokes from his terrible paws ; the rest retreated toward their
masters. Two other balls pierced his body, but only enraged him
without stopping his bounds, and at the next spring he was in
the midst of the group — struck down one man and held him in
his grasp. The dogs again rushed at him, and the peasants
stabbed him in the back and sides with their hayforks. This
and the shouting caused him to leave his viotim and retreat slowly
toward a bank partly covered with some thick bushes, the dogs
barking in his rear, followed by the men. On reaching the bank
he faced round, gave some fearful growls, and crouched for a
spring, which caused both dogs and men to halt. His position
was such that he could not be assailed except in front. Other
shots were now fired, but without effect, and the dogs kept up a
furious barking at no great distance, yet he would not come out.
As the man whom he had struck down was dead, his assailants
kept at a respectful distance. However, after watching and con
sulting some time in what manner to make another attack, the
dogs began to close in, when it was perceived that their antago
nist did not move. One of the men then went nearer, and finally
discovered that the beast was dead, a ball having pierced him in

266 MAKING PORT WINE.
a vital part. He was accordingly dragged out, and proved to be
a full-grown male tiger.
Barnaoul has a gastinoi-dvor, with some good shops, in which
many European articles may be purchased at very extravagant
prices. There are two or three who deal in all sorts of wares —
jewelry, watches, plate, glass, French silks, muslins, bonnets,
and other gear for ladies ; sugar, tea, coffee, soap, and candles ;
sardines, cheese, sauces, English porter, Scotch ale, French wines.
Port, Sherry, and Madeira — a most extraordinary assemblage of
goods. I must add to the catalogue arms, swords, guns, and
pistols. The Chief of the Mines one day desired to see one of these
general dealers on some important matter, and a Cossaok was sent
to desire his attendance. On reaching the establishment, he saw
the man's wife, who told him that her husband was not at home.
Having heard this, the Cossack returned and reported the answer,
but was despatched again with orders to find him and bring him
forthwith. On reaching the house a second time, he told the lady
that her husband must instantly be found, and retum with him
to the Natchalnik, therefore that she must declare at once where
he was gone. This somewhat frightened her, when she acknow
ledged that he was in the cellar making Port wine, and had
ordered that no one should disturb him during the operation.
All European articles are very dear, but there is a good market
in Barnaoul, well supplied with provisions by the peasants from
the neighboring villages. The following are some of the prices :
White flour per pood of 36 lbs. English, 3«. id.
Black or rye flour ditto ditto id.
And sometimes ditto ditto 2id.
-Beet from 28. to 3». id. for 36 lbs.
Nilma, or white salmon, 6«. for 36 lbs.
Sterlett, 9«. for 36 lbs.
Other fish, 2». 6d. for 36 lbs.
Grouse, 6d. a pair; repchicks or tree partridge, 3d. to id. a pair.
Fresh eggs, is. per hundred.
Blaeli carrants, 2 gallons for 6d.
Eed currants, ditto 5d.
Easpberries, ditto 8d.
Strawberries, ditto 8d.
Bilberries, ditto id.
It vrill be seen that living is very cheap in this part of Siberia;
farther east the price of food is much higher.

SMELTING SILVER. 267
Since my first winter in Barnaoul I have visited nearly every
town in Siberia ; have remained long enough to become aoquainted
with the inhabitants, and have entered into their recreations and
pleasures, but in no town have I found the society so agreeable
as in Barnaoul. They have an excellent band, trained by one of
the under-officers, a very good musician and respectable performer
on the violin, who received his musical education in St. Peters
burg : under his direction they executed most of the operas
beautifully, and with great effect. There are three ladies in Bar
naoul who play the piano-forte well, and during the winter three
or four amateur concerts are given whioh would not disgrace any
European town. They have also several balls in December and
January, when many young officers return from the mountains,
where they have been banished from their friends for eight or nine
months. There are a few wealthy merchants in Barnaoul who
trade in furs and other produce of Siberia, whioh they send in
February to the fair at Irbit, where all the furs procured in the
vast forests of Siberia are forwarded. Merchants from Europe
attend and purchase these goods in large quantities. Merchandise
from Russia, Germany, England, and Prance is brought to this
fair, whioh the Siberian merohants buy and distribute to every
town in this vast region.
There are barracks in Barnaoul, and usually from six to eight
hundred soldiers are stationed in the town. The population,
including these, was in 1856 about ten thousand. The workmen
live in small wooden cottages, most of which are clean and com
fortable dwellings, and nearly all the peasants keep cows and
horses. Those who are employed in the sraelting furnaces work
two weeks and then rest one; this is done instead of taking the
holidays arranged in the calendar, as that would interfere with
the operations in the Zavod.
Smelting the silver is a very unhealthy occupation, and the
workmen suffer much from the fumes rising out of the furnaces,
which give them the lead colic. Those who are engaged cutting
wood, burning charcoal, carting these materials, and various other
works which keep them constantly in the open air, enjoy excellent
health ; few, if any, men in Europe are more robust and hardy.
I'hey can, and often do, endure great fatigue; besides which, they
are exposed to extraordinary changes of temperature without feel
ing any bad effects.

268 A SHOOTING PARTY.
The River Ob is a magnificent stream, running in a vallej
twelve versts broad ; and there are many small branches dividing
this valley into islands, on whioh large trees are growing, lu
May, when the snow has melted on all the low land, this river
becomes a mighty stream, laying much of the valley under water;
but in June, when the snow is melting in the mountains, the
water covers the whole width, from one high bank to the other,
the tops of the trees alone standing up like islands, between which
this vast flood is rolling on toward the Arctic Ocean. At this time
there are many scenes along the valley of the Ob truly grand,
especially when spen eichei with the rising or the setting sun. The
crimson and golden tints of the sky are reflected on this vast flood
of waters, bounded on each side by the deep purple forests, which
stretch away for hundreds of versts till it is often difficult to dis
tinguish the horizon from the golden hues of the sky.
This valley has great attractions for the sportsmen from about
the middle of June to the first of August. There are thousands
of double snipes to be found frequenting the banks of the river,
and the grass around the borders of the numerous lakes formed
by the retiring flood. In 1848 the River Ob was unusually high,
flooding the country, and covering land rarely overflowed ; this
kept me a pri.soner, as it was impossible to travel while the
waters were out.
About the first week in July I was invited by the director in
Barnaoul to make one of a party of four to shoot double snipes
in the valley of the Ob. We dined with him at one o'clock, and
then started, having to drive sixteen versts to the place he had
selected for our operations. When we arrived at the ground and
were ready to begin shooting, it was near four o'clock. It was
arranged that we should meet at the place where the carriage stood
at seven o'clock, and drink tea. My three friends had each a good
dog, I had none ; we separated, and in a few minutes the work of
destruction began. I was told to walk along near the edge of the
water ; I did so, and soon flushed some birds, several of whioh got
away without a feather having been touched. After this I took
the matter more coolly, and shot many, my friends keeping up a
continued fusillade at no great distance. I now felt that a good
dog would be most useful at this sport. Having continued shoot
ing about an hour and a half, we all met not far from the carriage,
when it was proposed that we should drink something and empty

A "SPILL." -269
the game-bags. Mine was not half full, but the oase was different
with my friends; the wine was broached and drunk, and the birds
thrown down in separate places. We then moved off along the
ridges of grass lying between the large pools, and again shots were
fired in rapid and continued sucoession. At seven o'clock we were
recalled to the carriage, tea was prepared, and many other good
things were spread on the grass. Before sitting down, each man
counted the produce of his gun : mine was soon told : I had shot
twenty-three double snipes ; the director had killed forty-two ; the
apothecary counted out sixty-one ; and my little friend of the
Oural had slain seventy-two double snipes in something less than
three hours and a half. After looking at his heap of game, I gave
him the name of the " mighty hunter," and he is called Nimrod to
this day. I doubt very much if any of my countrymen have ever
done as much in the same time. Since then I have been out at
this sport, and many times with the same party, but I never saw
them kill more. " Nimrod" had shot on one occasion seventy-
eight birds, and the greatest number I ever got at one time was
thirty-eight, but mine were obtained without the assistance of
dogs. During the snipe-shooting season, when the water covers parts
of the valley of the Ob, accidents occasionally occur.
One very fine day, at the latter end of June, the Chief of the
Mines invited my friend " Nimrod" and another to go with him
snipe-shooting. On this occasion their destination was up the
valley of the Ob to a plaee about sixteen versts from Barnaoul.
They dined with the director, and drove off immediately in his
tarantass, travelling at a good speed to the point where they had to
descend into the valley. The high banks were abrupt, but the
man took them down slowly and safely. On arriving at the bot
tom of this steep bank it was found necessary to cross a broad
sheet of water to some higher ground where the carriage would
remain with the provisions ; this would also land them at a good
place to shoot over. The coachman was asked if he knew the
track sufficiently well to keep out of deep water ; he answered in
the affirmative, and drove on. Having gone about a hundred
paces, he got off the bank, and the wheels on one side sunk down,
turning the trio over into deep water, in whioh they sunk over
head. Fortunately, their guns, ammunition, and provisions were
safe in the boxes. After floundering about for a few minutes.

270 A STRANGE SPORTING-PARTY.
they got out, the carriage was set right, and driven over to dry
ground. A council was held to decide what was best to be done. As the
day was very hot and the snipes numerous, the idea of losing their
sport oould not be endured.^ The director proposed to send the
coachman to Barnaoul on horseback for dry clothing, but that they
should, in the mean time, strip off their wet garments, pour the
water out of their long shooting-boots, draw them on again, and
set to work dropping the snipes without delay, assuring his com
panions that the brandy eaoh of them had taken, in 'conjunction
with the exercise, would prevent any bad consequences. The
suggestion was no sooner made than aeted upon ; the coachman
mounted his horse, rode through the lake, and was soon ascending
the steep bank, which having gained, he gallopped off to Barnaoul,
bearing the tidings of their misfortune ; but three hours, at the
least, must elap.se before he could supply them with dry clothing.
The sportsmen at once prepared for the attack on the snipes ;
their wet clothes were pulled off and spread on the grass, their
boots and their broad-brimmed hats completing their toilet. Thus,
with only heads and legs covered, with game-bags slung over their
shoulders, and the patrone-tasches strapped round their waists,
they marched forth. The dogs, it is said, stared at this original
outfit in mute wonder ; they then stood firm, their heads up and
tails stretched out, and proceeded on their vocation. In two or
three minutes the snipes rose, but their efforts to escape availed
them nothing ; there were those on the watoh whose quick eye and
steady hand seldom failed. When once engaged in the sport, they
forgot their mishap, their costume, time — everything in the excite
ment ; and when the man returned, they appeared astonished by
his appearance. Not one of them suffered in the smallest degiee
from this exposure, and their adventure has already taken ttie
position of a local legend.
In the autumn there is plenty of other game ; in fact, tetery or
blackcock may be shot in August; reptchioks, or the tree-par
tridge, in September; and this is continued into the winter. When
the first snow has fallen, blackcock-shooting is splendid sport, and
is conducted in this way : A common sledge, sometimes with one
horse, at others with two, is prepared, and nearly filled with straw ;
upon this the sportsman sits down, and away the man drives into
¦^he forest, keeping a good look-out. When he sees the birds, he

WOLVES. 271
drives along till within rifle distance, and then stops. The sports
man must shoot the lowest bird ; when this one drops, the others
look down on their fallen mate, and remain quite still in the trees.
I have more than onoe shot three out of the branches of the same
tree before the brood have taken flight. When the birds are gone
the man gathers up the game, throws it into the sledge, and drives
on again. In these woods it is not difficult to shoot from fifteen
to twenty brace of blackcock in a day. This can only be done
with a pea-rifle, which makes a very small report, and is certain
in its effect.
Wild deer are not found near Barnaoul ; they must be sought
at some sixty or a hundred versts distance. Hares are in great
abundanoe in winter, and the wolves are more numerous than
agreeable. I once oame upon a party of seven. They were not
more than sixty or seventy paces distant, and I had no gun — not
even a stick. We stood looking at each other for three or four
minutes ; they then quietly filed away into a wood of small pines,
where I lost sight of them : this was within half a verst of the
town. Afterward I went many mornings to the same place, tak
ing my double-barrel gun loaded with ball, and a rifle also, but I
never met the brates again.

CHAPTER XX.
SPORTING ADVENTURES.

My friend the director proposed that I should accompany him
on his visit to the gold mines in the Altai. This was an oppor
tunity not to be lost ; it would take me into a new region, toward
the sources of the River Tom. We left Barnaoul on the 15th of
June, and descended the I^iver Ob in a boat to Bieloiarskoi,
where a carriage was waiting to convey us to a village on the
Tom. For some distance after leaving the valley of the Ob the
country is flat and uninteresting ; but horses were ready at every
station, the change was made in a few minutes, and they gallopped
over the road at a great speed. After proceeding on our course
through the night, we reached a thick forest early in the morn
ing, and travelled through it for many hours. About midday we

272

TOMSKY ZAVOD.

Stopped and took lunch on the banks of a little stream ranning
quietly along in its rocky bed, where there were many grayling
sporting in the pools, a sight that would have enchanted "Old
Izaak." A few versts beyond this we came into a more open
country, and in one of the little valleys were driven among plants
higher than the carriage. I got out and found that they were
the ferula, or giant fennel, some ten feet three inches high. My
companion ascertained at the village near that the ground on
which they were growing was oovered with snow only flve weeks
ago. This may appear almost incredible, nevertheless it is a fact.
I have frequently noticed the rapid growth of plants in Siberia
when I have spent several hours making a sketch, where they
were springing up around me.
About three o'clock we reaohed Tomsky Zavod — iron- works
belonging to the crown, where both pig and bar iron are made.
It was here that General Anossoff began to manufacture boulat,
from which he intended to fabricate damask blades, and this is
the place he proposed making the Birmingham of the Altai.
Iron ore of a very superior quality is got at no great distance,
but there is one great drawback — a small supply of water in dry
seasons. I sketched this plaoe, not on account of its beauty or
grandeur, but as a recollection of the spot on which my friend
would have effected a great change had he lived to carry out his
plans. We dined here, and in the evening continued our journey,
still through a woody country, which the shades of night soon
rendered obscure. Just as day broke we passed through the
town of Kouznetsk, which contains about two thousand eight
hundred inhabitants; among them many Cossacks, a considerable
number of Tartars occupied in hunting, and the rest Russians.
Large quantities of skins are brought to this town by the Tartars
and Kalmucks. It is here they pay the tribute to the govern
ment officers. The faet is notorious that eaoh hunter, Tartar or
Kalmuck, selects his best and most valuable skins for the
emperor. I hope his majesty gets them.
After passing Kouznetsk we soon reached the River Tom,
where the boats had been prepared for us. As we drove into the
village I" noticed a great number of peasants sleeping in the
street: they were workmen on their way to the priesk, who
would not proceed farther. An officer and a party of soldiers
had them in charge to conduct them to the mines, and while tea

FLOGGING. 273
was being prepared the former was sent for. In a few minutes
he appeared, and reported that he had tried every means to
induce the men to embark in the boats, but without effect. The
director dismissed him with a sharp reprimand.
As we were taking our breakfast, about four hundred peasants
assembled in front of the cottage, waiting to see the director.
\Vhen our meal was finished he opened the window, and asked
why they remained here instead of proceeding to the mines. A
man immediately advanced from the crowd, and said that they
would not go in boats up the River Mrassa, but had no objection
to go by land. A nuraber of Cossacks were standing near, ready
to obey any orders, and the director told them to give the man
twenty-five strokes with the birch rods. In a moment he was
laid on the ground, two Cossacks held his legs, two others his
arms and head, his clothing was turned down, and a Cossack was
standing on each side with a birch equal to most rods used at
Eton. The word was given, and down came a sharp blow,
followed by one from the opposite side. After receiving half a
dozen the viotim bellowed out that he would go. The director
stopped the operation, and in five minutes all the men were
running to the boats. This matter being settled, we followed,
and found our boats ready, each of us having one with two
men to row, and a Cossack to take charge of our things. We
were soon afloat on the Tom, which at this place is three times
the width of the River Thames at Westminster. About midday
we arrived opposite a Tartar village, beautifully situated at the
foot of some flne hUls, which rise into mountains more to the
northeast. After passing this village the valley became much wider, the
hills recede far from the river on both sides, leaving a great
breadth of rich pasture-land, but no large herds of cattle are seen
grazing in these meadows. Most of the inhabitants of the vil
lages on the Tom are hunters, and lead a very hard and solitary
life, living much alone among the mountains. In the evening we
arrived at a Russian village (^podobas"), where we remained the
night, and supped on flne fresh fish just caught in the Tom by a
Tartar. After rowing up the river in the morning for about two
hours, we arrived at the mouth of the Mrassa, and turned into
it. Our course was now nearly due south up this broad and rapid
stream, whioh I perceived would soon lead us into fine mountain
18

274

CAUGHT IN A STORM.

wilds. The oars were now laid aside, and the boatmen took up
long poles, with which they pushed the boats along; but this was
slow and difficult work. Every few versts carried us into finer
scenes, where granite rocks rose to a great elevation, broken into
singular and picturesque forms, often crowned by pines and droop-
ing birches, that gave great variety to the views.
We stopped to dine under the shade of some magnificent rooks,
on fresh grayling caught in a net shortiy after we arrived : they
were almost tossed out of the river into the pan, and very quickly
placed before us. These rural dinners I enjoyed much better
than I should a Lord-Mayor's feast, the locality and mountain
breezes giving an amazing zest to the repast.
My men, who knew the country, were anxious to push on with
out delay, as the sky was black, and we had already heard thun
der among the mountains in the direction we were going. I made
a sketch of this place. While doing this, the clouds were gather
ing over the mountains higher up the river. The people said we
should soon have a great storm, and wished me to remain, as we
could not reach the next station in less than four hours. It was
six o'clock when we sat down in the boat and pushed off; and
the men worked admirably, forcing the boat on faster than usual.
The clouds now became blacker, the thunder louder, and after
about an hour we found the storm was coming very near ; the
lightning shot down into the forests, and he thunder echoed from
mountain to crag with sublime effect. It was not long before the
storm reached us in all its grandeur, and the rain poured down in
streams ; still on we went, but with a strong wind and a rapid
stream against us, which rendered our progress very slow. At
last night cast her veil of thick darkness over mountain and
flood, when the effect of the storm became traly sublime ; it was
darkness made visible, and then all was lighted up in a moment
with a pink or reddish tint on rooks and trees. The lightning
appeared to hang on the dead branches an instant, sparkling in
the drops of water like globules of fire : this was wonderfully
grand. 'Hour after hour passed away, and still the thunder
rolled. When near the bank we disturbed some animal, which
gave a deep growl ; some one said it was a bear, but we could
not see him. Shortly after this the men said that they could not
get the boat farther, nor could they tell how far we were from the
station. It was pushed to the bank, and we were consulting what

RAPIDS ON THE MRASSA. 275
should be done, when we heard the splash of oars not far from
us. This proceeded frora a boat with four men, sent by my
friend, who feared that sorae accident had happened to us ; two
fresh men jumped into our boat, and our poor fellows into theirs.
We now got on so muoh better that in less than an hour I had
reaohed our little cabin, and, when I had changed my wet gar
ments, found it was past twelve o'clock. We sat down to supper,
partaking freely of the fine fresh fish placed before us after a six
hours' voyage and the pelting of a thunder-storm. The next
morning I disoovered that we were at the foot of the great rapids
on the Mrassa, the heavy rain in the mountains during the night
having added muoh to the grandeur of this scene.
The river at this plaoe comes rolling and tumbling with great
fury over masses of granite, making a tremendous roar. Our
boats had been drawn up the bank more than a verst to the head
of this rapid. A wonderful scene was the boiling and surging
water as it rushed down this rooky declivity, occasionally rolling
huge masses of granite before it, and making a report like a piece
of artillery each tirae the stone is turned over.
In the summer before my visit to this place a friend of mine
had a very narrow escape. He was the officer who had charge
of the gold mines in this region, and was conveying the gold to
Barnaoul. The usual mode of descending this river is on a small
raft constructed of trees; at the point where they erabark it is
guided by two oars, and by poles when necessary. The gold is
secured in a strong wooden box bound with iron, and any other
baggage the party may have is placed on the raft, forming seats,
whioh, with a few branches and long grass, make the conveyance
level and comfortable. On this occasion the officer was attended
by seven or eight men ; they descended the river without accident,
and in due time approached the rapids, floating down the middle
of the stream. It is necessary to stop in time and run the raft
to the bank, land all the luggage, and carry it to the lower end
of the boiling torrent, when it is placed on another raft, and the
voyage continued to the Tom. In this instance either accident
or mismanagement prevented their forcing the raft to the shore.
Every effort was made, but the officer saw it was impossible.
Ordering each man to leap into the river and save himself, he
followed; and fortunately, after a terrible struggle, all landed
safely on the bank, just in time to see the raft carried like a

^<0 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
shot over the brink. Before it had gone two hundred paces it
was shivered to pieces, and scattered in fragments on the surging
flood. The box containing the gold was heavy, and went to the
bottom at once. The officer had some luggage, and a box con
taining paper money, whioh being light, were carried down, and
found afterward some distance off, safe, but much damaged ; also
a bearskin shube or cloak, that floated down the river about sixty
versts, was then caught in sorae bushes, and when the water
subsided was left on the branches high and dry. One day a
Kalmuck hunter was passing at some distance, and saw what he
believed to be a bear. Creeping cautiously along till within rifle
range, he carefully took aim and fired; but as he did not even
see the fur fly, he thought the lead had missed its object. He
was not long, therefore, in sending a second messenger on the
same errand. Finding this did not arouse the beast, the Kalmuck
marched up to the game, when he disoovered that he had wasted
powder and balls on a bearskin shube. Later in the summer,
when the water was very low, many men were sent to search for
the box containing the gold. After much difficulty they succeeded,
and discovered it in a deep hole between some large rocks. Thus
all the property was regained.
Having ascended the bank, and climbed over the rooks to
obtain views of the great falls at different points, which amply
repaid my labor, I joined my friend, who had gone on straight
to the upper end of the rapids. We now sat down in our respective
boats, the men onoe more commenced their hard labor of pushing
us up the stream, w^ich becomes more difficult and the scenery
much' finer as we ascend ; indeed, I found some of the best
scenery on this part of the river. Granite rocks rise to a great
height, some of their summits bare, others fringed with birch and
cedar trees, while shrubs and small trees grow in the clefts. The
rooks are broken into pillars and pinnacles, some of them white,
others yellow and gray, producing beautiful effects between the
rich green and red foliage.
We had now reached the mouth of the River Orton, near its
junction with the BIrassa, and turned into that river, following
its course toward the east. We were among magnificent scenery ;
I sketched much of it, and deeply regretted that circumstances
prevented my ascending the Orton to its source. It rises in a

THE ANOSSOFF KAMEN. 277
group of high mountains between the rivers Tom and Mrassa.
The country in this region is very wild, and many rugged peaks
rise to a great elevation; the navigation is also attended with
increased difficulties. Taking my sketch-book and gun, I rambled
on, frequently far ahead, and thus found time to sketch without
delaying my party. A small but deep stream, flowing from the
north, stopped my onward progress on foot, and compelled me to
take to the boat again. In due time we reached a part of the
river where it was exceedingly rapid, running among large rocks,
some of them just covered, and others standing out of the water.
Several times the torrent forced us back, but, nothing daunted,
my men tried again, and by great exertion got through. Our
difficulties were not yet over. We had not gone far when we
came to a large block, against which the current dashed with
great force. To pass round without being driven upon it required
both eare and strength. As we carae near, the water dashed into
our faces : it was, indeed, a hard struggle, and we got up inch
by inch ; indeed, had one of the poles broken, we should have
been on the rooks in a moment, and then in the river. When
the rock was nearly passed, one of the men slipped, and instantly
our boat was half full of water; fortunately, they succeeded in
getting to the bank, when the baggage was removed and the
water bailed out. This place is the worst on the river, and passes
by the name of the " Anossoff Kamen." On the flrst visit made
by the general to the gold mines, when passing this rock his
boat was dashfd against it, filled, and went down ; the party were
carried out into the river in a moraent, but other boats coming
up, they were all rescued.
These, at first, appear unpleasant events, but a mau here soon
becomes accustomed to such little incidents, and they are in
keeping with the wild nature around him. Passing several other
rapids, we arrived at the place where men and horses were waiting
to take us on to Petropavlosk gold mine. After leaving our boats
we had a pleasant ride through a forest, where I shot some wood
cocks, and late in the evening we arrived at the mines. Except
ing the gold found here, there is nothing particularly interesting
at this place. We slept the night at the mines, and started iu
the morning to ride over the mountains to another gold mine about
thirty versts distant. It was arranged that two men who knew
the country should accompany me wherever I chose to go, and

278 IMMENSE CEDAR FORESTS.
this enabled me to visit some splendid mountain scenery. We
left the track which leads from one gold mine to the other, and
turned toward Petropavlosk Belock, where I sketched some beau
tiful views, the country being exoeedingly wild and grand. Im
mense cedar forests extend through the valleys, in some parts so
thick that it was almost impossible to force our way through. In
other places we rode among most luxuriant vegetation, which rose
far above our heads. Here I found the ferula more than twelve
feet high, with its bunches of yellow-tinted flowers eighteen inches
in diameter; of these I ara told the bears are very fond. Also
delphinium, with long spikes of dark blue blossoras, and others
of a pale blue, as well as aconitum of two varieties, a blue and a
pale yellow. Not far from these were growing red and pink roses,
two sorts of geraniums, and several other flowers I had never seen
before. To me it was indeed a beautiful garden in the midst of
wild and rugged scenery. Late in the evening I joined my friends
at Tsaravo-Nicholiovsky gold mine.
This village stands on sloping ground in a small valley, the
beauty and fertility of which have been destroyed by the gold-
washing operations that have been carried on here for many years.
At the period of my visit I was told that there were about six
hundred men employed in excavating and washing for gold. I
had seen the various processes and machines used in the Oural,
but the machinery here I found of a totally different construction,
and the whole moved by water-power.
These machines were designed and constructed by the officer
whose shube took the hunter's two bullets. At the tirae of my
visit the plaoe was very anhealthy, and there were many patients
in the hospital. Typhus fever was more than usually prevalent
among the workmen this suramer, and numbers had died from it.
My old friend Doctor Gabler was here to inquire into the cause,
and adopt such measures as would be most effectual in stopping
its ravages. Bly ride in the mountains was over ground where
bears are numerous; their tracks we followed, but without seeing
even one. I passed places where fearful encounters with these
animals have taken place. A very large one had been seen by
the woodcutters about fifteen versts from the gold mine, and two
men, one a hunter, held in great repute for his daring and skill,
determined to make his acquaintance. After wandering about for
some time they came upon his track, quite fresh iu the long dewy

PERILS OF BEAR-HUNTING. 279
grass. He was evidently near; this made them cautious, and
they prepared for action. Presently a loud growl saluted their
ears ; then out he sprung from a, thicket, about thirty-five paces
distant, where he stood snuffing the breeze and eyeing the in
truders. The hunter fired, and the ball struck, but not in a vital part.
Tn an instant the wounded animal charged ; the other man, who
was less experienced, reserved his shot until within twenty paces.
The rifle missed fire ; at onoe the brute raised himself on his
hind legs, and, tearing the earth beneath him, rushed on his first
assailant, striking him down with a blow that stripped his scalp
and turned it over his face ; then seizing his arm, he began to
gnaw and crush it to the bone, gradually ascending to the
shoulder. The man called to his companion to load and fire;
but the fellow, when he saw his friend so fearfully mangled, ran
away and left him to his fate.
Late in the evening he reached the gold mine and reported
what had happened, but it was too late to make any effort in
behalf of the mangled hunter. The officer ordered a large party
out at daylight the next morning, with the coward for a guide.
He took them through the forest to the spot where the encounter
had taken place, of which there still remained ample evidence,
but no remains of the victim were met with except some torn
clothing and his rifle. By the state of the grass, it was evident
that the man had been carried off into the thick forest. A most
diligent pursuit was therefore made ; sometimes the track was
lost, but the pursuers of the bear were too well skilled in wood
craft to be foiled, and at length discovered his larder. He had
dragged the hunter into a dense mass of wood and bushes, and,
to render the place still more secure, had broken off a great quan
tity of branches and heaped them over his body. These were
quickly stripped off, when, to their great surprise, they found the
man, though frightfully mutilated and quite insensible, still
living ! Two long poles were immediately cut, to which saddle
cloths were secured in the middle. One horse was placed in
front, another at the back, and the ends of the poles secured
to the stirrups, thus forming a very easy conveyance. The suf
ferer was placed upon the saddle-cloths, and carefully propped
up, and then began the painful march back as fast as possible.
On their arrival at the gold mine he was taken direct to the

280 A MONOMANIAC.
hospital; the doctor dressed his wounds, and administered all
that medical skill and kindness prompted ; his patient survived,
but long remained unconscious of everything around him. After
more than two months had elapsed a slight improvement took
place, and his reason appeared to be restored. His flrst question
was about the bear, and then he referred to his own defeat. He
spoke of nothing else, and was constantly asking for his rifle to
go and kill " Michael Ivanitch" (the Bear). The medical men
thought his mind seriously affected. As he gained strength, there
arose in him so great a desire to have another combat with his
powerful and ferocious enemy that it was considered necessary to
plaoe him under some restraint.
The summer had passed over and autumn had arrived; the
frost had scorched the foliage, changing it into golden and crim
son hues ; and as it was now thought the poor lunatic had forgot
ten his adventure, less vigilance was exercised toward him. The
opportunity was not lost, for he secretly left the hospital, and
started off for his cottage. All the family being absent except
some young children, he was enabled to secure his rifle and am
munition, and provide himself with an axe and a loaf of black
bread, which he stowed in his wallet. Thus armed and provi
sioned, he left the village in the evening without being seen
except by the children, and was soon lost to them in the forest.
When it was disoovered that he had escaped, people were sent
out in various directions to seek him, but they returned without
success. More than a week passed over, during which nothing
had been heard of him, when one day he walked into the hospital
carrying the skin of a huge black bear on his shoulders, and
throwing it down, exclaimed, " I told you I would have him."
This man was a fine old hunter : it was not a spirit of revenge
which prompted him to this daring act ; the fact was, he could
not brook the idea of a defeat. Now his reputation was re-estab
lish ed he was happy ; his health was again restored ; nor was this
the last bear that feU before his deadly rifle.
From Tsaravo-Nicholiovsky our way was across the mountains
toward the Tom, where a raft had been constructed to take us to
Belasenskoi gold mine. The scenery is not partieularly grand or
wild — that is, in comparison with other portions of the Altai. In
Europe it would be considered stupendous.
Our track led through a part of the forest where an incident

BATTLE WITH A SHE-BEAR. 28l
occurred to a Cossack officer that I cannot refrain from repeating.
One afternoon he was quietly strolling through the forest, alone
and unarmed, botanizing by the way, when, at a distance of about
eight versts from the gold mine, he oame out of the forest into an
open glade on whioh stood some single trees. Almost immedi
ately on entering this spot, he observed, at a distance of two
hundred paces, a she-bear and her two cubs playing together.
The moment she became aware of his presence she uttered a
savage growl, drove her young ones into a tree for shelter, and
mounted guard at the foot of it to defend them.
The Cossack retreated into the wood to provide himself with a
weapon, having determined to carry off the cubs. The woodmen
had been cutting timber, and from the stems of several young
birch-trees lying on the ground he selected part of a strong one,
near four feet in length, tried its quality against a tree in a suc
cession of smart blows, and then, club in hand, retraced his steps.
As soon as the old bear observed his approach she began to growl
furiously, moving to and fro with an uneasy motion at the foot of
the tree. He slowly and steadily advanced. When within about
a hundred paces her growl became more savage, and her actions
showed that she intended mischief. Nevertheless, he quietly
moved on, his keen eye steadfastly fixed upon her. The ground
was a fine grassy turf, with no shrubs or bushes to impede his
movements or entangle his feet. When within about fifty paces
she made a savage rush that would have daunted most men; but
lie firmly stood his ground, waiting her nearer approach. At this
moment the cubs began to whine, and she trotted back toward the
tree again in increased fury ; the Cossack followed, and when she
turned round they were standing face to faoe, within twenty paces
of each other. There was now no retreat; the brute eyed him
keenly for two or three minutes, as if calculating his strength, be
returning her gaze with as searching a scrutiny. Presently sho
'made a second rash, her eyes glaring like balls of fire. , At a few
paces from her enemy she rose on her hind legs, intending to give
him a settler with her powerful paws or to clasp him in her savage
embrace ; but on the instant he made a sweep with his club, and
dealt a blow that toppled her over. She was up again in a secoud
and ready for action, but another blow laid her prostrate. This
added to her ferocity, and it at once became a close encounter of
the most deadly and savage character. Many rounds were fought.

282

CAPTURE OF THE CUBS.

her antagonist keeping clear of her paws. At last the blows
began to tell on her courage. She endeavored to get behind him,
but his cudgel met her at every turn, and was so well wielded
that whenever within reach she received a stroke which drove
her back step by step, till both came under the tree. Here the
fight was renewed with increased fury, and every time the cubs
whined she made her attack with redoubled violence. The bat
tle continued to rage furiously, but the blows from the staff fell
so fast, and were applied with so much force, that at last she
began a retreat toward the forest, the skirts of which she entered ;
but the moment her brave assailant moved a step toward the tree,
she would rush out, taking especial care, however, not to come
within his reach.
The cubs remained in the branches, the sole spectators of thia
extraordinary scene; nor oould the Cossaok officer devise any plan
by which he could get them down. At their respective posts the
combatants stood, he guarding the cubs, and the mother growling
at the edge of the forest. At this time, a woodman returning to
the gold mine rode into the glade. He was instantly hailed, and
rode toward the tree ; but when he heard the growls and beheld
the bear, then in her most savage mood, his natural irapulse to
bolt was only checked by fear of a birching promised by his su
perior. He was ordered to dismount," and take from his saddle
the zumka (large leathern bags) and open them, then to climb
the tree and bring down the cubs. The man was soon up araong
the branches, secured a cub, brought it down, and then tied it
safe in the bag ; the other was also ciuiokly placed beside it in the
other bag.
During these operations the mother rashed at the Cossack, and
was several times knocked down by his weapon. The peasant was
now ordered to place the bags on his horse and lead the way to
the gold mine; the Cossack covering the retreat, and boating off
the enemy at every charge. After a walk of nearly two hours
they reached the village, the bear keeping close up with them.
As they went through the forest she made raany charges, but
each time was laid prostrate, and finally would not approaoh with
in striking distance. When they reached the village tbe Cossack
officer hoped to secure the dam, but after following them to the
cottages she returned to the forest, and was never seen again.
The cubs were kept, and became great pets with the people.

AN ILLUMINATION. 283
Even the hardy hunters of Siberia consider this a most daring
feat, wondering at the power, and admiring the cool courage of
the man who accomplished it.
From the scene of this conflict we ascended some high moun
tains, passing through fine forest scenery, and then descended to '
the Baliscou, whioh means " a river abounding in fish." There
is a deep and extensive cavern in some limestone rocks here, but
we could not explore it without a boat. We continued our ride
down the bank for a short distance, and then crossed some low
hills to the valley of the Tom, where we found a raft ready for
IJS. After cooking some delicious fish, and eating our dinners in
the wood, we embarked, and were soon fioating down the rapid
stream. The valley at this point has nothing particularly strik
ing. To the northeast the mountains rise to a great elevation,
some of them above the line of vegetation appearing nothing but
masses of bare rock.
The aftemoon became very wet, and the mountains covered
with clouds rolling over them gave a most dreary aspect to the
scene; still we floated rapidly along. About eight o'clock the
raft was pulled to a small island in the centre of the river, where
my companion intended that we should encamp for the night.
The tent was soon pitched, and a large fire made. The net, hav
ing been cast into the stream, was dragged ashore, containing
about fifty fine grayling ; these were presently cooked, and made
a splendid supper for the whole party. When dark, it was pro
posed to illuminate our little island. About a hundred paces from
our tent there was a clump of fine piota-trees, which we intended
should form the grand light; a small clump on each side of the
island was also to be fired. All hands were soon at work collect
ing materials to place under the trees, and in about an hour f "very-
thing was ready; the piles of wood and birch bark were lighted.
These bumed slowly for a short tirae, until some pine branches
caught fire, when they blazed furiously, communicating the flames
to the trees. In a few minutes there was a general conflagration ;
the fire ran up and along the branches like gunpowder, making a
tremendous roar. There is so much turpentine in these trees
that it caused the flames to rise to a great height. After our
illumination we slept soundly until day dawned, and then resumed
our voyage. Here the river expands, becoming broad and shal
low ; indeed, we had not proceeded far when the raft began to

284

COAL.

drag on the stones at the bottom; presently we stuck fast. All
hands were now corapelled to step into the river, but the raft did
not float. However, after much lifting and pulling, we succeeded
in getting it into much deeper water, and on we went again, but
only for a short distance, when we had the same process to go
through. Happily, this was the last adventure of the kind, as we
soon got over the rock, and floated along most delightfully through
beautiful river and mountain scenery.
The small wooded islands and frowning cliffs fringed with dark
cedars give to this part of the river a peculiar character, much
aided by high mountain masses, some with scarcely a vestige of
foliage, or even moss on their rooky summits. While in many
of the gorges formed in their riven sides mountain torrents came
rushing down, and were sometimes seen dashing in white foara as
the water leaped from rock to rock, in other places they were lost
under a thick canopy of trees growing in the bed of the ravine.
I often found it very difficult to force my way into these rugged
and picturesque spots. We floated down the Tom for seven or
eight hours, passing mighty precipices and lofty towering crags,
which seem almost toppling into the river at their base. Birch
and cedar trees were growing out of the clefts, while flowering
shrabs and flowers were clinging to their broken sides. Many of
these scenes were singularly picturesque.
We had now reached a spot containing one of the most valu
able of mineral treasures — thick beds of coal cropped out of the
mountain side, dipping at an angle of about 22°. The faces of
two of these seams, with the rooks lying between them, were
broken off quite perpendicular, presenting the appearance of hav
ing been heaved up during some great convulsion. The upper
bed of coal was twelve feet thick, resting on a stratum of gray
and yellow rocks eight feet in thickness. Beneath these is an
other seam of coal ten feet thick, whioh rests on a bed of appa
rently similar rocks twelve feet deep; and below these I saw the
upper edge of another bed of coal, but how thick could not be
ascertained. In this region there is a coal-field probably larger than any one
in Europe. I found a bed of coal at another point of the river
thirty-one feet thick above the surface of the water ; the depth I
cannot say. What stores of wealth lie buried here — iron and coat'
in inexhaustible quantities ! Gold is found and worked in some

GIGANTIC FERN. 285
of the upper valleys, and jasper, porphyry, and a beautiful aven
turine are among the rocky treasures of these mountains. There
is also rich pasturage in many of the valleys, where great numbers
of cattle might be fed. Both feathered and large game are abun
dant, and I can answer for the excellent quality of the venison.
The keenest sportsman, whether of the rifle or the rod, will never
lack employment here. If a sketch-book be added to his wallet,
every rocky glen and mountain stream will afford him subjects of
Btudy equally novel and attractive.
Having descended the Tom to the mouth of the Bellousa, where
we arrived early one fine morning, we found boats waiting to take
us up this river to a gold mine in one of the small upper valleys.
Here we breakfasted on grayling just drawn from the water and
tossed into the pan. We had to ascend this rapid stream about
thirty-five versts, two men in eaeh boat forcing us on with poles,
as on the Mrassa. There are many lovely scenes in this valley,
several of which I transferred to my sketch-book. The vegetation
was most luxuriant. I walked through beds of fern uiuoh higher
than my head, and found the ferula thirteen feet high. It was
no easy matter to force my way through some of these vegetable
masses. Just at dusk we arrived at the mouth of the little valley
through which runs the small river Ezras, where horses and men
were waiting to take us to some gold mine about an hour's ride
distant.

CHAPTER XXI.
ON THE LAKES OF THE ALTAI.
Leaving the Bellousa, we entered a thick forest, now ren
dered more gloomy by the shades of night. Here arboreal giants
reared their lofty heads, and intertwined their branches into a
thick canopy of wood and foliage, their huge mossy trunks assum
ing a supernatural appearance in the deepening gloom. In some
places lay masses of rock, heaped up in great confusion, that had
tumbled from the high crags above. The sraall river was fretting
and leaping along in numerous cascades, and occasionally we
caught a glimpse of its white falling sheets, looking like ghosts,
flitting about on this wild spot. So supernaturally strange did

286 wolves' glen.
the scene appear as we rode along, that I oould not help exclaim
ing to my companion, " Surely this is the fearful glen in ' Der
Freischutz.' " After riding about half an hour through this forest,
_ we came into a more open part of the valley, and reached the gold
mine a little after dark. It belongs to the crown, and has only
been opened about a year. The place on which the gold is found
is not of great extent. Wooden houses were building for the
workmen in most picturesque spots; but, like all newly opened
mines, the locality Was very unhealthy.
Immediately after breakfast, while my friend was engaged with
the officers and people, I rode back to the Der Freischutz scene,
and after some hours' occupation brought back a vivid recollection
of a real Wolves' Glen, for these animals are numerous in this re
gion. Indeed, it would have been quite in oharaoter had a herd
of these brutes assembled to dispute our right of way, and brought
on a conflict like the meraorable one desoribed by De Foe. Soon
after midday we were floating along the Bellousa; in some parts
we went down the rapids at terrible speed, the men raanaging the
little craft with great dexterity. They had no slight difficulty in
avoiding the rocks, which threatened every raoraent to shiver our
little boats, and send us swimming down into some of the whirl
pools, from which we should have found it no easy matter to
escape. Late in the afternoon we reached the Tom, and continued our
course down the stream. It was a lovely evening, peculiarly
Siberian. The sun had set behind some high mountain masses
now steeped in a deep purple tone. Still farther in the distance,
and stretching away to the south, were other parts of the Altai
chain, tinted in colors of purple, blue, and misty gray as they re
ceded till the farthest summits appeared melting into vapor. The
sky was a deep orange toward the horizon, gradually changing, as
it ascended upward, into a pale yellow, and then into a bluish sil
very gray; bright crimson and gray clouds were spread over this
in light fleecy masses. The forms were so varied that Nature
seemed to have exercised her utmost power to produce this traly
wonderful effect.
We were now floating on the broad bosom of the Tom, with
scarcely a breath of air to cause even the smallest ripple. There
are many thickly-wooded islands in this part of the river, which
were reflected in their deep purple colors upon water that shone

KALMUCK FISHING. 287
like molten gold, while all the mountains and valleys were covered
with sober gray, indicating the gradual approach of night.
Later we beheld the Kalmuck paddle his little canoe into the
stream, light a fire at the prow, and then stand with spear in hand,
ready to transfix any of the finny tribe lured within the reach of
his deadly weapon. I never saw one of these men miss his prey.
He stands with a foot on each edge of the canoe, and balances
himself with ease, a matter of no small difficulty to the uninitiated.
I onoe saw a Cossack try this mode of spearing at the foot of a
rapid, where the water was very deep, and flsh in great numbers.
The Kalmucks had brought out several talmane, some of them
weighing thirty pounds each; one of my companions thought he
would try; so, mounting the canoe, it was paddled up toward the
foot of the fall.' In a very few minutes the fish were gazing at
the light, when he struck at a large one, failed in his aim, and
went down among the fishes, to the great amusement of all present.
We were under no apprehension for him, as he oould swim like a
duck. About ten o'clock we reached a village at which we had slept
on our way to the Mrassa, and here we remained the night. Our
voyage was continued the next morning, and in the afternoon we
arrived at a village where carriages were waiting to convey us to
the silver mines at Salaier. The route was one we had traversed
before, and presented nothing of interest. We passed over a
country with low rounded hills, almost destitute of wood, and
reached the iron-works at Goorieovsky, which belong to the crown ;
here they make pig and bar iron, but not in large quantities at
present, as the new buildings are not yet completed. The officer
who had charge of these works was an acquaintance I had made
on Seene Gora, in the Oural, since when we have spent much
profitable time together, for I found him a most worthy fellow.
My companion having inspected the works, we travelled on to
Salaier, and visited the silver mines. Large quantities of ore have
been obtained in these mines for a long series of years. Some of
it is procured from a great depth, and in other parts the ore is
worked as in a stone quarry, at from twenty-five to fifty feet below
the surface. It is not smelted on tbe spot, but transported in
small carts to the smelting works at Barnaoul, Pavlovsky, and
Goorieovsky. Salaier is a pretty place on one of the spurs of the Altai, which

288

A DEEP LAKE.

rans down into the low country between Tomsk and Kolyvan. To
the south there are pine-covered hills, extending over a consider
able tract, while to the north there is very littie wood. A few
versts from the mines a bed of coal has been discovered, which is
now being tried in the Zavod. Should this prove good, it will be
of great value, as wood has to be brought from a distance of fiftyJ
and sixty versts to some of the smelting works. Formerly no -
care was taken in cutting down the timber, and much was wasted.
Now, however, the forests are under the care of intelligent offi
cers, educated in the Forest Corps in St. Petersburg.
As we had to ride aoross a country over whioh I had previously
travelled, I shall merely state that, after a difficult and sometimes
dangerous ride on horseback over a wild mountain region, we
made our first night's lodging in a balagan on the Altin-Kool, or
Golden Lake, under the trees.
This spot is near the outlet of the lake, not more than three
versts from the point where it falls into the Bia. The lake is said
to be about one hundred versts in length, varying from three to
ten or twelve versts broad. In fact, it may be considered to lie
in an enormous chasm formed in this vast mountain chain. It is
entirely surrounded by high mountains, in many parts presenting
precipices not less than two thousand feet in height, nearly per
pendicular. I was informed by a Russian officer who had sounded
it that one part was more than two thousand feet deep, while
other places were still deeper, he being unable to sound them, not
having sufficient line. It was my intention to have tested these
measurements, and preparations were made, but I was prevented
by storms that are frequent here, and exceedingly dangerous.
There are many mountain peaks on the west side of the lake which
rise to ten thousand five hundred feet, and several on the south
even higher. On the east side they are somewhat less in eleva
tion; still, they reach far above the line of vegetation into the
region of eternal snow.
I have crossed one of the summits to the west ten thousand five
hundred feet high, and one to the south somewhat higher, from
which I could look down upon the lake. While contemplating
the scene beneath, I oould not refrain from speculating upon the
geological secrets that lay undivulged in the mighty abyss almost
at my feet, and which it would disclose were it not for the crystal
fluid that, from this elevation, looked solid and black as ink

PICTURESQUE SCENERY. 289
After making the circuit, we found that, excepting the small
plot on whioh we first encaraped, there was not on any other part
of the lake a single acre of flat land. Our party consisted of six
teen persons, eleven being Kalmucks to row the canoes. For the
first ten versts along this shore the mountains do not rise very
abruptly; they slope down to the north, and are covered with a
dense forest of cedars to their summits, while the banks on the
opposite side of the lake, facing the south, have scarcely a tree
upon them. After passing a small headland the lake expands,
and a splendid view burst upon us. To our right were frowning
precipices of great elevation, upon which dark cedars were grow
ing. At the foot of these cliffs a huge mass of rock rose out of
the water about five hundred feet, and from the inclination of the
strata I was induced to think part of the mountain had fallen inlo
the lake.
Beyond this, each few versts presented a new and beautiful
scene; the lake stretched into a fine sheet of water, with pic
turesque mountains rising upon each shore. Several times I was
pulled ashore and placed myself on jutting rocks, which afforded
me good points to sketch from. Early in the evening we stopped
near a torrent, whioh came rushing down a narrow gorge, and the
Kalmucks proposed to remain here for the night. There was a
nice bed of clean sand, about five paces wide, sloping gradually
down into the water. Large cedars were growing between the
upper edge of the sand and the rooks, and under these our
balagan was made. Although it was but a few bare poles covered
with birch bark, open in front, and the ends filled up with
branches, we found it exceedingly comfortable, with a great fire
in front, giving warmth and keeping off the musquitoes. I tried,
accompanied by three Kalmucks, to penetrate the thick forest on
the banks of the torrent, but, after forcing our way about one
hundred paces, in half an hour we were compelled to give it up.
Night soon spread her mantle over mountain and lake, when
everything was hushed in silence; scarcely a leaf was moved, nnr
was the lake ruffled by a ripple.
I awoke with the dawn, and found a fresh breeze blowing. 'V\'e
were corapletely sheltered by a high mass of rock ; nevertheless,
we could hear the roaring of the waves as they dashed against the
rocks, telling us plainly that we were prisoners on this solitary
strand. Beyond them we should enter on the broad parts of
19

290

TMEK-TASH, OR STONE CHEST.

the lake, where I expected to find splendid scenery. This made
me anxious to proceed; but, so long as the breeze lasted, the
Kalmucks would not move, not even after it had moderated
considerably. They examined the appearance both of sky and
mountains carefully before they would attempt to pull us round
the point. About ten o'clock they seemed to be relieved of their
fears, when we pushed off, and in less than half an hour rounded
the point of rocks, and entered into a large basin about fifteen
versts long, and seven or eight broad.
The scene I now beheld was splendid ; the mountains rose to
a great height, some of them capped with everiasting snow. After
the first burst of astonishment was past, I turned to examine the
shore, not far from which we were rowing, when I found the
rocks came sheer down for six or seven hundred feet without a
ledge to whioh we could cling. There was, therefore, no plaoe
to effect a landing. Had we been caught in a storm on this part
of the lake, nothing could have saved us in such frail craft. I
was, therefore, fully convinced that the Kalmucks understood
how and when to continue our voyage, and this determined me
to submit to their arrangements. Having gone five or six versts,
we reached an isolated mass, a little beyond which I was able to
take a view looking down the lake.
The rocks at this point were a light blue slate, of a very
compact grain, reminding me of the same material obtained at
Ulverstone. From this point we pushed on again, crossing a part
of the lake which formed a small bay in the mountain, and soon
reached Tmek-ta.sh, a rock forming the point where the lake turns
directly south. This had been mentioned to me as the finest
view on the lake, and it is ti-uly grand. Our canoes were seoured
in a sheltered spot. We then climbed to the top of Tmek-tash,
or Stone Chest, so named from its square forra. I found these
rocks slate of a similar kind, but in this instance great disrup
tions had taken place. In some parts the strata are lying in a
horizontal position, while in others they are almost vertical. The
top of Tmek-tash was covered with plants and flowers, several of
which I secured. I also found some very beautiful ferns growing
in deep shady clefts. The shores of this lake would be highly
interesting to the botanist, as he would find here new and
beautiful specimens, especially in rock plants. On the crags two
thousand feet above me I saw moderately large trees, which, by

AERIAL PERSPECTIVE. 291
their foliage, I supposed to be birch ; but as they appeared to
be hung with bunches of bright yellow and orange flowers, I
thought they must be a new species, or, at least, a species
unknown to me.
The view of the lake from this point is extensive, and embraces
some bold scenery. Along the west shore the rooks dip to the
east at a very sharp angle, while on the crest of these mountains
crags rise up quite perpendicular. Overtopping these, a snow
capped summit appears shining like silver against the deep blue
sky. On the east side of the lake the mountains are less abrupt,
but there is one which rears his rounded and lofty head far into
the clouds. At the time I was sketching billowy masses of white
vapor floated aoross his rugged sides, leaving his crest, which had
been decked for ages with snow, sparkling in the bright sun. The
color and aerial perspective of these mountains are wonderful. I
counted twenty-three distinct distances, each beautifully defined,
and receding until they appeared like a thin transparent cloud on
the horizon.
I had another object in ascending to the high crags above us — •
to look for sorae of the feathered race in the forest, and thus pro
cure a dinner. "Shouldering my rifle, I marched off, accompanied
by four Kalmucks and our Talmash or interpreter, who also car
ried a gun. We scrambled up the rugged sides of the mountain
and oame upon some bear-traoks, which the Kalmucks said had
been made only a few hours. We followed them toward the sum
mit, but without any result. When near the top I found that
my conjecture was correct; the trees with garlands of yellow and
orange leaves, whioh, when seen at a distance, had exactly the
appearance of long pendent bunches of flowers, not unlike the
laburnum, were birch. During this ramble a few birds were shot :
they were black, and about the size of a jackdaw, but their food,
being the cedar-nut, gives them a strong oily flavor. They were
very wild, keeping out of the range of shot. I pioked them off,
however, with my pea-rifle, from the upper branches of the high
trees. Again we took to our canoes, passed Tmek-tash, and entered
the large part of the lake. We had not gone far when I was
pulled ashore, where I found the slate rocks dipping to the east
at an angle of 41° ; a littie farther I found the dip was 46° ; ip
both places the strata continued at this angle nearly to the ridge

292

WATERFALLS.

of the mountain, where they became broken and jagged. As we
paddled along not far from the shore, and some twelve or fifteen
versts from Tmek-tash, I heard the roaring of water, though it
was hid from sight; pulling in toward the rocks, we found a
narrow gorge down which the water tumbled with a great roar.
From the lake nothing could be seen, but on climbing the rocks
and ascending the ravine I observed a splendid view.
The rocks on both sides of the foreground are a dark red
granite, those in the distance are slate. The plants and flowers
growing with a tropical luxuriance upon and out of their crevices
gave the scene quite an enchanting aspect. It was savage nature,
adorned with some of her most lovely ornaraents. The deep red
on the granite, the gray, purple, and orange on the slate, with
the bright yellow of the birches on the distant rocks, overtopped
as they were by deep purple raountains, rendered this a study of
inestiraable value. Had Ruskin been here, he must have acknow
ledged that Darae Nature was as a colorist more Turneresque than
Turner hiraself. After devoting several hours to this subject, I
found it was time to seek a night's lodgings — no easy matter to
aooomplish on these rocky shores. Portunately, after about an
hour we came upon a spot covered with rough pebbles large
enough for our encampment, close under some larch-trees. The
canoes were drawn up to secure them against a gale, and we soon
made ourselves snug for the night.
A discovery was made this evening of a startling oharaoter.
The bread had been left at Sandip, about four hundred versts
distant. All we had was a few pounds of black sucarees — small
cubes of dried black bread.
The morning was fine, but a strong wind delayed our starting
until near ten o'clock, when we once more got under way, pas.s
ing some fine scenery, which gave me plenty of occupation.
About noon we arrived opposite to a ravine in which was a beau
tiful waterfall, with a large body of water tumbling among rocks
of very picturesque shapes.
The rocks around and in this fall are of every variety of color
— some bright red, others purple, yellow, and green. I found
several beautiful specimens of marble — one a white with purple
.¦ipots ; another, white with bluish-purple veins. These had been
washed from the mountains above. There were masses of a deep
plum-colored jasper, al.so tumbled down from their beds by the

PROJECTING CLIFFS. 293
torrent. I made a great effort to ascend to the upper part of this
fall, but, after many attempts in various directions, was most re
luctantly compelled to depart without even a peep at the savage
scene beyond. The scenery on this part of the lake is cf a raost
wildly romantic character. Advancing farther, we same upon
the slate formation, heaved up into a vertical position, in beds
varying from one to three inches thick, that rose up from five
hundred to seven hundred feet in many places — not perpendicu
lar, but overhanging the lake considerably. Approaching these
precipices, with a side-view- they appear huge blocks broken into
fantastic shapes, ready to topple over into these fearful depths.
It was necessary to keep at a respectful distance, as we beheld
during our voyage along this shore several pieoes plunge in and
cut the water with a great noise. When passing in front of these
cliffs, I saw that the different beds projected out, leaving a deep
cavity between. In some places a single bed three inches thick
stands out four or five feet, rising forty or fifty feet above the
water, like the leaf of some mighty doors : the effect is most
peculiar. Such is the formation on this part of the lake for more
than twenty versts, without one spot on which a man oan place
his foot. We were all delighted when these dangerous rooks
were passed, and turned into a bay with a sandy beach, having
large cedars growing to the water's edge, near the River Chealee.
Here we encamped for the night; and very soon after our arrival
a stiff breeze sprang up, dashing the waves far on to the sand.
Had it come on an hour sooner, not one of us would have
escaped. Our balagan was put up in a spot sheltered from the wind by
thick underwood ; a bed of sparkling white sand lay iu front, on
whioh a huge fire rendered our lodging exceedingly comfortable.
While the evening meal was being prepared, I rambled into the
forest, hoping to procure food for to-morrow's dinner, but nothing
could be found. At dark the night became stormy, heavy black
clouds rolled over the lake, and thunder was heard in the distance,
but the storm did not reach us.
On waking at daybreak I found we had a clear sky and a
strong wind, whioh again delayed us until the middle of the fore
noon. About two hours after we started one of the most wild
and savage-looking scenes on the lake opened upon us. It is a
deep circular recess into the Kara Korum Blountain, into which

294

SUCCESSION OF FALLS.

fall three streams. These are united near the top of the mighty pre
cipioe, and then come tumbling down in a succe.'ssion of falls until
they reach a mass of rocks, snow, and ioe, under whioh the water
passes, and at last rushes out through a natural arch and falls into
the lake, where at this point it runs in among the precipices.
From the level of the lake to the top of the cliff, over which the
water takes its first leap, is not less than two thousand feet. Ava
lanches must at times sweep over this place, and large trees are
bent down and stripped of their branches. Huge rocks are torn
up and hurled along, crushing and grinding everything in their
course as they rush on into the lake. No man oan conceive the
chaotic confusion into which the mass of ice and rook has been
heaped. One enormous stone, weighing not less than one hun
dred and fifty tons, had been placed on its end, on the edge of the
rook, in an overhanging position toward the lake. While engaged
sketching this view, I observed the Kalmucks bringing the strong
trunks of some fallen trees, of whioh they made levers, hoping to
tumble the mass into the lake. All their efforts were fruitless,
for which I was not sorry. The mass was left standing — an
enduring monument of the mighty power which had placed it on
its pedestal.
Having spent several hours on this wild but interesting spot,
we onoe more embarked and proceeded onward. The cliffs still
retained their rugged appearanoe and perpendiouLir form, over
which numerous little rills came leaping and sparkling, sorae of
them carried away in vapor before they oould arrive at the bottora.
W^e passed a spot where the slate was thrown up iuto high and
jagged peaks, without finding a single plaoe where we could land
on this part of the shore, until our arrival at the mouth of the
Tohoulishman, which has formed several small islands near the
head of the lake :. we encamped on one near some large and fine-
looking birch and poplar trees, whence I had a magnificent view.
During the latter part of our voyage we had been under some
apprehension of another storm, as clouds were gathering thick
over the mountains lower down on the lake. These continued to
collect with astonishing rapidity; still, all was oalm and sunshine
with us. Hour after hour passed ; the dark mass became black
and descended upon the lower summits. It had a fearful aspect.
Not a leaf quivered to the breeze ; not a ripple was heard on the
shore : it was one of those appalling calms which betoken a dread-

A STORM. 295
ful outbreak, and we all watched with feelings of deep anxiety.
Shortly after dark this dense mass of black clouds was riven
asunder by a terrific flash, which lit up lake and mountain for a
few seconds with a glare of pinky light. The thunder rolled and
echoed through the mountains with a most sublime effect. The
lightning flashed in quick succession, sometimes descending into
the lake, at others striking the mountain crags, among which we
could see it leap from point to point. At last it became almost
one continued blaze, affording me an opportunity of examining
the thick clouds, which appeared almost solid before the flash.
This storm was not in one broad mass of clouds, extending over
the heavens for many miles, but composed of innumerable pillars
of electric clouds piled up in billowy masses, and vanishing off in
endless perspective : some of them were lighted up with a vivid
glow when the flash burst forth, while other parts remained in
shade, and some stood out in inky blackness. This storm con-
'tinued for several hours to rage on all sides, but without one drop
of rain coming near us; a few miles farther down the lake, its
effects must have been tremendous.
The next moming was sunny and beautiful, promising a flne
day, and we started to ascend the River Tohoulishman, which en
ters the lake by several streams. We were obliged to try three of
these before we could succeed in reaching the river in its single
bed. When we did aooomplish this, the stream was so rapid that
it was with difficulty the canoes could be forced along.
The scenery on this river is worth all the toil of a long jour
ney; in Europe we have nothing to compare with it. In some
parts the roar of its waters is heard for many miles, and the rich
foliage on its banks grows with striking picturesqueness amid
fallen rooks; the stupendous mountains forming the gorge through
whioh it runs, their various-colored rocks, with the patches of
moss of almost every hue, and the sparkling waterfalls that come
tumbling down their ragged sides, produce an effect impossible to
be described by language. My portfolios will show how earnestly
I strove to do them justice by means with which I am more
farailiar. Having spent a sufficient time in their delineation, I
returned along the eastern shore of the lake, where I found much
to occupy me. On one part, which is not so abrupt and wild as
the west side, there are singular masses of conglomerate at a con
siderable elevation above the lake. Some stand near the edge of

296

FURIOUS GALE.

the precipice, others at a distance, and they frequentiy take the
form of ruins.
Not far from this place we had a visit from a bear. After ex
amining our camp, he very politely quitted it, leaving everything
untouched, and all our party fast asleep.
Near the point where a small arm of the lake turns directiy east
toward the Kamga the cliffs are limestone, in which is a large
cave, and not far distant there is a noble waterfall on the River
Karbou, about five hundred paces from the lake. The scenery
on all the streams which fall into the Altin-Kool is very fine ; on
some it is exoeedingly wild and grand. We continued our voy
age toward the Kamga, which enabled me to obtain views of the
high chain to the eastward ; after which we crossed the lake, and
proceeded along the north side about a verst from the shore.
The attention of the Kalmucks was suddenly attracted by a sound
in the mountains, which caused them to rest for a minute, when
one of them gave orders to make for the shore. The canoes were
instantly turned, aud the men pulled for the land with all their
might. The lake was perfectly calm, but these mountaineers knew that
a storm was coming, and it was evident that they were exceed
ingly anxious. Our little boats were pulled along at a great speed
toward a bay where there was a sandy shore, our only place of
refuge. We were within a hundred yards of the beach when we
heard the wind sweeping over the lake with a fearful sound.
Looking out in the direction of the noise, I saw a streak of white
foam coming toward us like a race-horse, and felt that if we were
caught in this blast we were doomed; a few minutes more, and
we should be safe. At last we touched the sand; to leap out was
the work of a moment; simultaneously we seized the canoe, and
ran with it up the beach ; the other two crews performed the same
operation. Now the gale swept past in its terrible fury, and a
wave came dashing on to the strand four or five feet deep. Two of
the canoes, being a little behind, were not out of reach of the
wave as it rolled in, and were filled in a moment; the men, how
ever, held on, and the boats were soon pulled out of danger.
We sought shelter in the forest under several large cedars, and
while some of my companions brought our baggage, others began
preparing a balagan as a protection against the storm. Just at
this moment oame a vivid flash, followed by a terrific crash of

KALMUCK CANOES. 297
thunder, which appeared to shake the solid earth. The roaring
of the wind and waves, and the heavy roll of the thunder, were
appalling. It soon became a perfect hurricane ; the tops of the
waves were blown off as they rose, and the lake was covered as
if with a sheet of snow. Had we gone even one hundred yards
farther before turning toward the shore, we should never have
been heard of again. Beyond this little bay there was not a spot
on which we oould land for fifteen verstst The perpendicularity
of the shores and frequent storms render the navigation of this
lake extremely dangerous, the more especially in a craft in whioh
many persons woald hesitate to cross the Thames.
Eaoh canoe is out out of the trunk of a tree ; ours were made
of poplar, whioh grows in some of these regions to a large size.
Though the wood is very soft, it is a work of great labor for the
Kalmucks with their implements. The sides are cut down to
about three-quarters of an inch thick, and the bottom is near
double the substance, which is usually made flat and without a
keel. The storm continued until near evening and then cleared off.
The Kalmucks proposed, although late, that we should take
advantage of the calm and get out of the great basin, expressing
their conviction that we should be detained in the morning, as
the weather was breaking, and storms would now be frequent. I
had already sufficient proof of their knowledge to induce me to
adopt their suggestion ; therefore the order was given to pack
the baggage, and in a quarter of an hour we were on our way to
seek another lodging. It was more than two hours before we
turned the rooky point at the entrance of the smaller part of the
lake. Even before doing so the rain began to pour down, and
night came on apace, yet no place oould be found where we oould
land and place our boats in safety. Nor was it until some time
after dark that we discovered a favorable spot, and then we had
to encamp "in thunder, lightning, and in rain," which continued
nearly through the night. The following afternoon we reached
our first encampment, near the outlet into the Bea, whence we
started on our voyage round this lake, decidedly one of the met
beautiful spots in the world.

298 FINE ART POORLY REWARDED.
CHAPTER XXIL
THE CHAINS OF THE ALTAI.
I NOW determined to visit the source of the Katounaia, though
several of my Siberian friends considered it would be impossible
to reach Bielouka with its glaciers at this season of the year, the
winter coraraencing very early in this high region. During my
journey I had collected jaspers and porphyries of great beauty,
also several specimens of quartz and aventurine; and Kolyvan
polishing works lying in my route, some of these I gave to be
cut. The works here are not so extensive as those in Ekaterine
burg, nor do they cut any of the precious stones. The articles
made are often on a gigantic scale; and a walk through the
Hermitage in St. Petersburg will sufficiently prove to every one
the beauty and grandeur of the different vases, columns, and
pedestals produced in this far-off region, where Europeans gene
rally consider there is nothing but barbarism.
At the time of my visit there were about one hundred and
twenty workmen eraployed inthis Zavod. Many were engaged
in cutting dark purple jasper columns fourteen feet in height;
others were atwork on vases of dark green jasper; both the
design and material were exceedingly beautiful, and in some the
foliage was equal to any I have ever seen, either ancient or
modern. Were these artists free to exercise their talent for theii
own benefit, this wild region would soon produce men that
Russia might be proud of; but the poor fellows are made to work
for two shillings and ninepence and three shillings and eightpence
a month. Let us hope that his imperial majesty will give these
deserving men their freedom, and with it the privilege of putting
a water-wheel on the stream which furnishes the moving power
to the imperial works. Were this accorded to them, three or
four artificers would join and erect a small wooden building and
water-wheel, by which means they would be able to execute works
of moderate dimensions, and find a ready sale at remunerative
prices. The mass of materials on which they employ their talent
is so enormous in the Altai that it will not be exhausted for ages
to come.
From Kolyvan my road lay to the southeast. The director

ABRUPT DESCENT. 299
gave me his tarantass, in which I could travel about one hundred
and thirty versts to a village on the rivei^ Tchurish, and at three
o'clock we started with five horses over a hilly country. The
first fifteen versts were uninteresting — rounded hills, with very
few trees to break the sameness of the landscape. After this we
reaohed a more elevated part of the country, affording a fine view
of the Tigeretzskoi chain. A little before dusk we arrived at a
village where horses were ready to take us on. We had high
hills to cross, whioh in some places were steep; this led us on to
a plateau, with great blocks of granite standing up along several
small ridges. From this spot I had a noble prospect of the Tchu
rish winding its course in a deep valley in the mountains. About
ten versts beyond this point the road falls abruptly into the val
ley. It was no easy matter to descend : two wheels were locked,
and the yemstchick begged me to walk down, he being afraid of
his horses bolting. _ Night was fast covering hill and valley in
-gloom, which gave to many of the objects a raysterious aspect.
Having, however, reached the valley in safety, we sat down in
the carriage, and were soon fording the river, the water coming
into the tarantass, but without doing us any damage. On reach
ing the opposite bank we had some difficulty in getting up ; but,
when once on the road, the men proceeded at a furious speed,
regardless either of our necks or their own. The people of the
village declared that it was impossible to go on in the dark, and,
knowing nothing of the country, I reluctantly passed the night
here. The following morting a dense fog covered up everything;
but I found, on leaving the village, that we ascended rapidly.
After about an hour we emerged from the fog into a brilliant
sunshine, while all below was hid in a sea of white vapor.
Having gained the summit, we had a fine view of the mountain
chains to the south, among which I wandered in 1847. Many
of their forms were familiar to me, so that it was like meeting an
old acquaintance. No snow had yet fallen on their summits,
which gave me hopes that I might still reach Bielouka. As we
passed over the mountain, I saw some basalt columns in a deep
ravine beneath. Stopping a few moments on the ridge before we
descended, my man pointed out the River Tchurish in a deep
narrow valley, to the east, into whioh we were about to descend.
From this point we had a fine prospect of the south part of the

^^^ RIVER TCHURISH.
pholsoun chain, with its high crags and snowy peaks glittering
in the sun ; other summits, still farther to the south, near the
source of the Bouohtarma, oould scarcely be distinguished from
the clouds. The road down to the valley of the Tchurish was
steep, and the country to the south well wooded with pine and
birch trees. Our speed was a full gallop down a straight road
for some five or six versts, when we turned suddenly round, forded
a rapid stream, and in ten minutes were in the village. As my
friend's tarantass was to stop here, horses were soon saddled, and
a party of four men ready to accompany me to the next village,
twenty-five versts distant.
The sun was sinking fast when we mounted and rode away.
About two versts from the village we came to the Tchurish, a
broad and rapid stream, which we must ford. One of the men
rode in, I followed, the others came after us. The water was
both deep and cold, but all passed in safety, when our horses were
put into a sharp trot to enable us to reach Korgon before dark.
The road was along the east bank of the river, close under tho
high granite cliffs, whioh rise in many parts frora two to three
hundred feet. In many places the scenery was very picturesque,
and reminded me of some parts of the River Tom. Several deep
ravines ran up into the mountains, down which small streams
fretted and foaraed over their rooky beds. We had a rough ride,
and arrived at the village at dark. A boat was sent over to take
us across, but our horses had to swim. The Startioner had been
apprised of my visit, and was waiting to conduct me to his house.
Bly horse was over in a few rainutes, when I raounted and accom
panied my host to his home, and this was to be my resting-place
for the night. I was scaroely seated when the good man pre
sented me with a plate of delicious honey, fresh from the hive.
It was seven o'clock in the morning before the men and horses
were ready for our ride to Tchtohulika, the last village on the
Tchurish. The rain, as my host had predicted, was pouring in
torrents, and all the mountains were covered with a thick fog.
We were going to ride along the valley of the river, in whioh, I
had been informed, the scenery was beautiful, but I had very
little chance of seeing it. In some parts it was well wooded, in
others corn was growing and nearly ready for the sickle. After
riding more than an hour the fog began to clear off, but the rain
continued nevertheless. I was able to get some idea of tbe

WEALTHY MERCHANT. 301
country we were travelling through. The valley at this place is
about a verst and a half wide; portions were under cultivation,
and in other parts there were good pastures, with clumps of fiue
trees. It is bounded on eaoh side by high mountains, composed
of purple and blue slate, broken iuto numerous ridges, with many
small valleys and deep ravines running up toward their rocky
crests. By ascending to the top of a rugged spur, which ended
in a precipice sheer down to the river, not less than eight hundred
feet, we obtained a view of the village, with the river winding
through the little plain. In summer this is a beautiful spot, the
ground being covered with wild flowers growing on a rich carpet
of grass. On the mountain slopes wild strawberries, of a most
delicious flavor, are found in great quantities, and game is abun
dant. The descent into the valley was very abrupt, and rendered slip
pery and difficult by the rain. On reaching the bank of the river
we found it somewhat swollen, but as we must cross it, we plunged
in the water up to our saddle-flaps, and found it exceedingly cold.
However, we all forded it in safety. I was taken to the house of
a merchant evidently well off, most probably rich, who gave me a
most hospitable welcome. Tea and aladias (batter fried in but
ter), with delicious honey, were placed before me. My host urged
me to remain the night, as the rain poured down in streams, but
this I declined, knowing the value of one day on a journey to the
region to which I was bound. Here it was rain, there it would
be snow. At noon the horses were brought into the yard, when
one of them yas honored with a precious cargo, consisting of four
vedros of wodky, a quantity of tobacco, and sundry other articles,
which received the greatest attention from my companions. With
out this stock it would have been difficult to persuade any man to
start in such weather; but when this provision for the journey
was seen in the yard, I oould have had any number of volunteers,
rain, rivers, and snow losing all their terrors.
Bly party consisted of five men and nine horses. The Star
tioner and five other men accorapanied us a short distance to aid
in fording the river, which was rising fast; indeed, there were
doubts of our being able to pass it. We suooeeded,but our horses
had to swim a short distance. Shortly after leaving the villasre
the rain ceased, and a bright sun shone upon us, which soon be
came hot, and made our jackets smoke again. We had to follow

302

PINE SCENERY.

a track up the valley of the Tchurish near to its source, and then
cross a high chain to the valley of the Koksa. A change carae
over the aspect of the country; everything was bathed in sun
shine, and we passed through some most lovely scenery. The
well-woided valley of the Houekan, with the high mountains sur
rounding it, afforded some fine views, which I did not fail to add
to my collection. I rode through the woods and beautiful glades,
in some parts like park scenery ; nor were the deer wanting to
complete the illusion, several groups bounding past out of rifle-

KALMTJOK SAI.RIFICE.

range. The red deer are numerous in this region, while higher
up in the mountains the alain, a stag of a large size, may be met
with. Crossing some low hills thiokly covered with birch-trees,
we descended upou the Yubagan Steppe, where many Kalinuuks

KALMUCK SACRIFICE.

303

have their aouls, with large herds of horses and cattle, which find
excellent pasturage on the steppe and in the small valleys among
the mountains. The Tchurish runs aoross this valley. Here it is
shorn of its woody banks; indeed, scaroely a tree is to be seen.
Notwithstanding this barren appearanoe, the varied forms and
colors of the mountains give a charm to the spot which would
interest every beholder.
In the spring the Kalmucks offer up sacrifices to their deity:
the rich give horses; those who are poor sacrifice sheep or goats.
I was present at one of the ceremonies. A ram was led up by the
owner, who wished for a large increase to his herds and flocks. It
was handed to an assistant of the priest, who killed it in the usual
manner. His superior stood near, looking to the east, and began
chanting a prayer, and beating on his large tambourine to rouse
up his god, and then made his request for multitudes of sheep
and cattle. The ram was being flayed; and when the operation
was completed, the skin was put on a pole, as shown in the accom
panying sketch, raised above the frame-work, and placed with its
head to the east. The tambourine thundered forth its sound, and
the performer continued his wild chant. The flesh was cooked
in the large caldron, and the tribe held a great festival.

KALMUCK PRIEST.

304 KALMUCK PRIEST.
The dress of the priest was a leather coat, over the laps of
which are hung hundreds of strips, and leather tassels on the
breast. He wears a girdle round his waist, with brass balls on
his back; and scraps of iron hang on the front, producing a jin
gling sound. To accompany his other instruments, I added a
key to his stock, which he received with great"^elight. His cap
was of crimson velvet, with brass beads and glass drops hanging
on his forehead, and feathers from the tail of the crane at the
back. Having completed these sketches, the lessening light warned
us to seek a more sheltered resting-place for the night. A ride
of somewhat over an hour brought us where the river runs
through a small wood of fine larch-trees, and under these we en
camped. It was, however, dark long before our strips of canvas
were rigged up, and fuel collected for the fire, that wag rendered
absolutely necessary by the keen cutting blast whistling through
the trees. At such times every man must do his duty; mine
was to get up the blaze; and long practice had made a good fire
man. The next morning at daybreak we left our resting-place, and
entered another branch of the steppe, running directly east.
Over this we gallopped at a good speed to a Kalmuck aoul, which
we reached in two hours; we there changed horses and pushed
on. The ride over these grassy steppes was exceedingly agree
able, constantly winding among picturesque ridges, where I found
some beautiful specimens of red and green porphyry. The ascent
hitherto had been gradual ; but we had now reaohed the foot of
the chain that forms the watershed between the Koksa and the
Tchurish, and a rugged mountain rose up in front, on which
there was no track to guide us on our course. About noon we
came to a small stream, leaping and hissing over its rocky bed ;
and having remained here a sufficient time for both men and
horses to be refreshed, we started again, riding up a very rugged
ascent, rendered more difficult by a dense forest. In about an
hour we were on the summit, or, as the men termed it, " the sad
dle." Thick clouds rolled over us, and a heavy pouring rain
penetrated our clothing in a few rainutes. Our position was both
disagreeable and dangerous, for we could only see a few yards in
advance ; the descent, too, was steep, and no one knew whether
we should find it gradual or abrapt. One of the men dismounted.

ABBAYE STEPPE. 305
and started off in the direction my compass told me we ought to
go ; in a few minutes he returned, led his horse down, and we
followed. In less than ten minutes we were beneath the clouds,
whioh were rolling fast ov.er the top of the mountain. Although
we were still in a drenching rain, we could see our way, whioh
was very steep and difficult. As we rode down, we passed three
large larch-trees that had been struck by lightning, most proba
bly in the storm of last night, as the splinters were quite fresh.
Two of them were rent inlo thin pieces like laths, and strewn
around, extending over a space twenty-three paces in' diameter.
The stumps were left standing, one five feet high, the other eight
feet. During my journey I have seen more larch-trees that have been
struck by lightning than all other kinds taken together. What
is the cause I cannot tell, unless it is that they are more often
found isolated than either pines or birches. Soon after passing
these blasted trunks we got among a labyrinth of rooks over whioh
it was impossible to ride. Every man dismounted, and after
much trouble we passed this formidable barrier, and reached a
steep grassy slope on whioh the horses could scarcely stand.
After descending two or three hundred paces we came upon good
ground, over which we could ride at a moderate speed ; this soon
brought us to the Abbaye Steppe.
We were now in a country quite familiar to me, for I had
crossed part of it in 1848, and' a few versts farther would place
me on my old track, whioh we should follow some forty or fifty
versts. I saw again " the old familiar faces." Each little rivu
let was recognised ; the lakes where hundreds of ducks were
swimming, the picturesque masses of rook, and jagged outlines
of the mountains, had left an impression whioh subsequent scenes
had not obliterated, making me forget for a time the cold rain
that was chilling me.
We had reached the Tschugash River, and a hard ride of two
hours would take us to the Koksa. I put my horse into a gallop,
and as all followed cheerfully, notwithstanding the plashing rain
which beat in our faces, at a few minutes before eight o'clock we
reached our intended camping-ground. While my tent was being
pitched I aided in getting up a large fire, rendered doubly neces
sary by the piercing gusts of wind that swept through the trees,
and penetrated our wet clothing, making our teeth chatter again.
20

306

A STORM

A bountiful supply of dry wood created for us a blazing fire; and
having partaken copiously of the contents of my tea-kettle (the
tea-pot had been smashed), I walked to a more open part of the
forest, which afforded me a view of the surrounding mountains.
Those to the north rose up abraptly to a great height almost close
to us, while to the south and east stood the Giants of the chain,
their heads wrapped in eternal white, looking cold, grim, and
ghastly ; among them were the objects of my search. On looking
up to the mountain near us I observed that the clouds were
gathering fast in dark and lowering masses, while in another
region of the heavens there was a great commotion ; the clouds
were whirling round, and huge piles were heaped up and tinged
with a dusky red, apparently waiting an order for battie. I had
now been long enough accustomed to a mountain life to know by
these appearances that a storm was brewing.
My tent was pitched against the trunks of three large larch-
trees growing close together, the foliage so thick overhead that
the men said no rain could penetrate. In front of the tent a
huge fire was buming brightly, and close by were other fine
trees, which afforded shelter to my men, who had spread their
saddle-cloths ready for their night's sleep. Within ten paces of
our fire the Koksa ran over large rocks, making a great roar.
The red glare from the blaze gave a warm tone to the trunks and
branches, and rather a bandit-like character to our party.
Having written up my journal and placed my arms where they
would be secure from wet during the storm, which I was certain
would visit us, I turned down on my bearskin and was soon sound
asleep; but this did not last long. Before eleven o'clock I was
startled by a tremendous clap of thunder, which caused me to sit
up and look around; the rest were sleeping soundly. The rain
was pouring down, and came through my tent like water from a
garden engine ; everything was wet. I had only sat up a few
minutes, when a second crash came, followed by others in quick
succession. Our fire was nearly extinguished by the torrents of
falling water — it could scarcely be called rain — and between each
flash of lightning it was utter darknesg. I lay down again, trying
to secure myself from the wet, and listened to the approaching
storm. The noise of the river was lost in the roaring of the wind
through the forest. Those who have never heard this sound
cannot form any idea of its power and awful effect. It comes

A STORM. 307
rushing up these mountain valleys like a hurricane, wrenching
off branches and uprooting mighty trees in its course.
I now began counting the time between the flash and the re
port, and found that the storm was coming on like a locomotive
engine ; when I could only count six after the flash, the bellow
ing was fearful. Every flash came nearer; the storm was soon
directly over us, the lightning and the report simultaneous. It
was awfully grand : a thick darkness at one moraent, the next a
blaze of light the eye could not look upon, at the same instant a
terrific crash. The clouds appeared hanging on the trees in a
black mass, while all around us was enveloped in a dense fog.
Bluoh as I like to see a thunder-storm, this made me fear its
dreadful effects, more especially after seeing so many larches
shivered during our day's ride. To remove was impossible ; we
must remain and trust in Providence for protection. In about
half an hour the storm passed off toward the mountains, among
which it echoed with fearful grandeur.
Soon, however, it was returning, when I marked the time
between the fiash and report with intense anxiety. Eaoh few
minutes brought these dreadful clouds nearer, until they were
again directly over us, and the storm onoe more raged with
all its fury. The lightning appeared to come from the tops of
the trees, tinging the forest and all around with a pale blue light.
This caused every man to sit up : the Russians were crossing
themselves, but the Kalmucks sat smoking their short pipes per
fectly calm. It was only when two of our horses broke loose that
these men showed the slightest emotion; they then sprung up
and secured the poor beasts while they stood trembling with fear.
The flashes were now incessant; thick streams appeared darting
through the branches, and the thunder positively shook the
ground; I could feel it tremble with each crash. So long as
memory lasts I shall never forget the effect of this fearful night.
I doubt if any man slept.
At six o'clock we left our encampment, the thunder still rolling.
From this place our track was down the north bank of the River
Koksa to the Katounaia, forty versts away. Our ride was over
a steppe for about thirty versts, having a chain of mountains to
the south covered with snow, which gave a cold and winteriy
aspect to the upper region, while the forest and steppes beneath
were clothed in their rich autumnal foliage.

308

COOKING VENISON.

The Kalmucks who inhabit these steppes have large herds of
horses, oxen, and many sheep. Some of the mon are flne fellows,
and perfect Nimrods ; they live by the chase, spending months in
the mountains quite alone. I ever found these hunters faithful,
honest, and brave. I have slept at their balagan, and partaken
of their venison. A city alderman would be horrified to see the
haunch of a fine buck cut into small pieces an inch square and
half an inch thick, through twenty of which a sharp-pointed stick
is run, and the thick end stuck into the ground in a leaning posi
tion near the fire. Every man here is his own cook, and attends
to the roast. The upper piece is first done, when it is slipped
off, dipped in salt, and eaten quite hot, without currant jelly.
Shortly after midday we reaohed the village of Kokstschinskoi,
standing near the junction of the rivers Koksa and Katounaia,
at the head of the valley of Oueraonia, a beautiful spot, through
which the Katounaia rolls its rapid flood. High mountains sur
round this little plain, rearing their jagged peaks far into the
clouds, and apparently shutting up the valley at both ends.
Here is good pasturage for horses and cattle, and the mountain
slopes on the north produce excellent crops of wheat and rye.
Two villages in this valley are oocupied by Russian peasants,
who live by their agricultural produce and hunting, and many
sable-skins are obtained in the neighboring mountains. Four
years ago I visited this place, and the peasants recognised aud
were delighted to see me. Continuing our ride down the valley,
we reached Ouemonia Lake in the afternoon, the last village in
the Altai.
Immediately on my arrival I sent for the Startioner, and
ordered him to provide me with a sufficient number of men and
horses to go to the source of the Katounaia and the Bielouka, the
highest point in the Altai chain. This was Monday evening;
the men and horses were promised to be ready on Wednesday
morning. It was arranged that I should have six Kalmucks and
two Russians, one of them the great hunter of the village.
During the evening several peasants came to advise me not to
attempt the journey, as it was too late in the season. I admitted
that it would have been better to have undertaken it earlier, but
assured them that it was not only possible, but that it must be
done, therefore any further arguments would be useless. This
determination I perceived had become imperative, otherwise I

THICK FORESTS. 309
should have had to endure a dozen different narratives of the
horrors of the jeurney. Tuesday was rainy, with a strong wind,
and snow was on the tops of the lower mountains. Though an
unpromising day, I urged on the preparations. The hunter oame
to me; he, at least, was not daunted; indeed, thought we should
have better weather. As he would command the party, I ordered
him to have the men and horses in the yard at daybreak. When
he saw the kegs of wodky, his eyes sparkled with delight,
observing which, I gave him a glass, and it made him set about
the work in good earnest.
On Wednesday, very soon after it was light, the Kalmucks rode
into the yard with the hor.ses. The rain had ceased, and at seven
o'clock we sprung into our saddles and rode away, my little band
consisting of two Russians from the village, six Kalmucks, my
man from Barnaoul, and myself — in all, ten men, with sixteen
horses and one dog ; not a very jovial band, certainly, for several
looked up at the snowy peaks over which we raust ride with evi
dent feelings of horror; indeed, my man would have bolted had
not the fear of the birch conquered his dread of the snow above
us. The people of the village gave us their prayers and a bless
ing, aud the Russians stopped to cross themselves.
Our path was over a little steppe about five or six versts long,
whioh runs up into the mountains toward the south. Having
' passed this, we entered a thick forest, whioh clothes all the lower
region with magnificent timber, consisting of cedar, pine, birch,
and poplar: here began our ascent of the first chain. After riding
about four hours the rain coraraenced pouring down in torrents,
with a strong wind blowing, which we only heard as it roared
over the tops of the trees, while before us rose a rugged mountain
quite destitute of wood, where we should have the full force of tbe
storm without the slightest shelter.
Having reaohed the edge of the forest, we continued our ride
up the bare mountain side. What a change! we had a strong
wind, with rain and sleet driving into our faces, and penetrating
our clothing in a few minutes. We pushed onward, aud reached
a small plateau five or six versts in length. Over this we rode at
a sharp trot, with the gale blowing in our teeth, and reached the
last straggling cedars, growing amid fallen rocks, that were thrown
about in the wildest confusion. We were now .at the foot of a
very high mountain, over which lay our track. Its summit was

310

HANGING ROCKS.

covered with clouds, beneath which we could see the snow falling
fast. Our guide pulled up his horse, and saia 't was quite im
possible to cross the mountain in such weather, and proposed that
we should seek a sheltered spot and dine. We therefore turned
our horses, descended into a little glen, where grew some large
cedars, under whioh we soon made ourselves comfortable by a
rousing fire.
About three o'clock, the storm clearing off, I ordered a quick
march, and we rode on again in a cold, cutting wind, whioh raade
our wet clothing feel anything but comfortable. We reaohed the
chaos of rocks and began to ascend; but our progress was very
slow, in consequence of our having to wind among, and often
over, huge masses of fallen granite and jasper. Tl^e cedars,
which appeared small at a distance, were truly giants of the
forest, their mighty trunks and branches towering up to a great
height, while their gnarled roots were twisted about among the
rocks like huge serpents petrified in tbe act of crawling frora the
ground. After pa.ssing this belt of trees — the last struggling efforts of
timber to maintain its plaoe among rooks and snow — we began to
climb the mountain in eamest. This was a most tedious opera
tion, for great rooks, hurled down from the crags, appeared hang
ing so insecurely that the slightest touch would be sufficient to
put them in motion and crush every one in their path. In some
places we had to ride along narrow ledges, where a stumble from
our careful and patient animals would have sent us many hundred
feet beneath, when our lives and journey would be ended in a
few moments. A ride of near two hours brought us to the sum
mit, whence we had a magnificent view of the valley of the River
Katounaia and the mountains to the north. We were now in a
wintry region, while in the deep valleys there was summer in all
her beauty of foliage and flowers.
Our ride was over a high plateau, on which rose up mighty
rocks, rugged and picturesque, the remains of high peaks old
Father Time is constantly mowing down. It is impossible to look
upon these vast masses without wonder and astonishment. 'They
are silent preachers, that carry the imagination back through
thousands of ages to a period long before animal life had its
existence on our planet, and make the mind reflect on the
tremendous power which heaved up their rugged forras. Thoy

VALLEY OF THE TSCHUGASH. 311
often, as already stated, present the appearanoe of ancient castles,
well suited for the residence of genii and demons. Looking
southward, we saw several high mountain peaks covered with
eternal snow, and among them my guide said we should have to
seek our track. They now appeared close to us, their white
forms being cut out against a deep black sky.
A consultation was held between the hunter and the ohief of
the Kalmucks ; then I was assured that we must ride fast, or we
should be caught in a great storm, and not be able to flnd our way
down into the valley on the other side. The appearance on the
mountains denoted what was coming ; therefore our horses were
put into a gallop, rough as the ground was, and we watched with
anxiety the approaching tempest. After riding about an hour
without once drawing rein, we began to descend into the valley
of the Tschugash. Even the animals seemed to perceive and
dread the approaching tempest. We pulled up at the head of
the valley, and it was only by holding the reins tight we could
keep our steeds still ; indeed, the moment my horse felt the reins
slackened he dashed off, followed by the others.
All the high peaks around were now enveloped in dense black
clouds, giving a fearful aspect to the scene before us. The forest
was still several versts distant, and this both men and horses were
anxious to reach. At length we heard the roaring of the winds
as it came up the valley — a certain harbinger of a good drenching.
We had not gone far when the tempest met us, nearly lifting us
off our saddles, and the next minute the snow almost blinded us.
Notwithstanding this, our horses hurried on, and soon brought us
into the shelter of the trees near the banks of the river, along
which we rode slowly, seeking a place on whioh to rest. We had
not gone far when we found a thick group of cedars, affording
ample shelter, and a good supply of firewood, with plenty of grass
close at hand.
All hands went to work right willingly to house us for the
night, some making a fire, others fixing up our canvas coverings,
unloading the horses, and sundry other matters necessary for our
night's encampment. We had scarcely got the tent up when the
rain poured down, not in drops, but in streams. After inaking
everything snug by stopping the wind out at one place with
branches, at another with a wet coat, and at a third with my sad
dle-cloth, I sat down, enjoyed my usual refreshment, and listened

312 EFFECT OF A MIST.
to the roaring of the wind with a degree of satisfaction that can
much more easily be imagined than described. The horses were
picketed close to the encampment, as hoth the hunter and the
Kalmucks thought the bears might pay us a visit, and leave us
minus a steed in the morning. A good fire was kept up, and
our rifles placed at hand in case of need. We slept, however, in
peace. A fog prevented our starting early, but about seven o'clock the
sun's rays penetrated through the mist, and sent a flood of light
into the hitherto gloomy valley. We were soon on horseback,
wending our way toward the lake near the source of the Tschu
gash. It is a wild and gloomy spot ; still, it had great charms
for me, and I endeavored to give the effect under which I have
seen it just at dawn of day, when I have been out in search of the
alain, or large stag.
After sketching the lake I continued my course, crossing ano
ther very high ridge, on which we found new snow up to the
knees of our horses. Clouds were still hanging on the high sum
mits to the southward ; now and then floating masses rolled up
the mountain sides, and exposed for a few minutes the wild and
rugged scenery whioh lay hid under that misty veil. In short,
the mountains became coquettish; at one moment the misty
shroud was lifted sufficientiy high to show all the beauties that
peeped frora the skirts of the hills, and then the fleecy garraents
were dropped with sueh a raodest grace that fancy pictured innu
merable hidden charms. After watching for several minutes
with intense interest these curious effects, a gentle breeze wafted
the misty veil from the forms it had conoealed, and left them
exposed in all their original beauty. Suddenly a gleam of sun
shine lighted up these dazzling features ; in a few minutes a
shade as of sadness passed over them, and again the misty folds
covered the objects I was longing to portray.
It was now time to proceed onward, and «eek other scenes
equally worthy of a place in my sketch-book, and fortune might
perhaps favor me in the next valley. Our ride was over a lofty
region, just below the line of perpetual snow, and above the re
gion of vegetation. Not a blade of gra.ss or a branch of moss was
to be seen on this dreary place. Dark purple slate and patches
of snow formed all the eye had to rest upon. A ride of somewhat
more than an hour brought us to the brink of the abrupt descent
into the narrow valley of the Arriga.

SEA OF MOUNTAINS. 313
The clouds were rising from below and swept ovei us, obscur
ing everything around ; this brought us to a dead stand, for to
proceed was impossible, as we were close upon precipices many
hundred feet high. At last the sun burst through, and the
clouds rolling off, a magnificent view lay before us, spread out
like a map. Almost close under our feet lay the deep valley,
with the little river Arriga winding along like a thread of silver;
and high above us rose peaks of slate, sharp and jagged. To
the westward we looked over many ridges to the Cholsoun, now
clothed in its winter garment of pure white. On the south and
southeast were the summits which are assembled round the Bie
louka, all of which were decked in their mantles of snow. This
was both curious and interesting : the deep valleys were still cov
ered with grass and flowers blooming in all their beauty. Rich
green and yellow foliage was waving on the trees, some not yet
tinged with their autumn tints.
Looking over this sea of mountains, I observed the tops of the
lower ranges colored with brown and green. The next summits
also showed little vegetation, still they were tinted in brown,
green, and purple. A little higher, and vegetation ceased; then
came the line of snow perfectly, level over the whole chain.
Eaoh region was distinctly defined, which enabled me to judge
of the height of many summits over which I had travelled at dif
ferent periods.
It was now discovered that we had struck upon the valley of
the Arriga at a point where it was utterly impossible to descend ;
this compelled us to turn to the west ; and after riding about
three versts we found a deer-track, and succeeded in reaching
the bottom in safety, although many parts were extremely dif
ficult. Having sketched two views on this picturesque spot, we crossed
a low wooded ridge, and then turned up into a most rugged pass.
Vo the south the mountain rose probably twelve to fifteen hun
dred feet, very abrapt, and broken into crags, down which the
water came tumbling in many a sparkling stream. Day was
waning fast long before we reached the head of the pass. I had
delayed our march by sketching, but all the men, except two
Kalmucks, had gone forward to prepare our night's 'lodging.
Just at dark we saw a large fire blazing at about a verst distant,
which we were not long reaching; there a snug berth had been

314

CLIMBING A MOUNTAIN.

selected under some tall trees; the tents were pitched, and every
thing made ready for my evening meal. The men were all cook
ing, and some venison chops were placed before me, our hunter
having shot a fine deer near our resting-place. What with veni
son and wodky, the poor fellows made a glorious feast, singing
songs until a late hour. Such savage scenery, with such wild
music, would have satisfied a Salvator Rosa or a Callot.
Again day broke with a fog in the valley, but to go on before
it cleared was impossible. As the sun rose we could see the
vapor gradually diminishing, or, as the men said, " being eat up
by the sun." About seven o'clock we rode up the bank of the
Arriga, and in half an hour were at its source, which is a small
circular basin of about thirty feet in diameter at the foot of a pre
cipice seven or eight hundred feet high. The basin is deep, with
white stones at the bottom ; and the water, clear as crystal, rises
from a spring, runs out in a good stream, and tumbles down in
many little falls. In front of us a mountain stopped up the pass,
rising very high, and the upper part deep in snow. To scale it
was far from easy, but must be attempted. Our Kalmuck —
Yepta — took the lead, and I followed on his zigzag track. It was
curious to see us all in motion on the mountain side ; our turn
ings far exceeded a hundred, I am certain, as we were more than
an hour reaching the summit — a mere ridge, not twenty-five feet
wide, having a descent even more abrapt. From this point a
grand and wild scene was before us; high peaks of dark slate
rose to a great elevation, with patches of snow and ioe filling up
the clefts, while far below us lay the little valley of the Mein,
srailing in its summer garb. I met on the ridge blocks of a
beautiful dark green jasper, and some in the crags we passed in
our descent to the Mein.
Our ascent to the ridge was difficult, but this was much more
BO ; indeed, it requires good mountain training to enable a man to
sit coolly on horseback in such a place. After riding in a zigzag
direction to the depth of more than a thousand feet, we found
it less abrupt, and rode to the bottom without farther difficulty.
The river has its source in a small lake at the foot of some black-
looking crags, reaching far above the snow-line, and winds its
course through a morass which has ages ago been a lake, formed
by a mass of rocks that cross the valley more than a hundred feet
ab"ve its bed A narrow passage has been broken through these

THE KARA-GOLL. 315
rocks, most probably by some convulsion, as the water could not
have cut it down in such a manner. The little river rushes
through this chasm, and forms a beautiful fall of about fifty feet
in height. At the head of the diminutive lake there is a small
waterfall, which comes down from the high precipices in one leap
at least five hundred feet. When the wind is sweeping over the
falling water it has a beautiful effect ; sometimes it appears hang
ing o\er the dark rocks like a veil fluttering in the breeze.
Most of the rocks here are slate, some of a purple, and some
of a greenish blue. I also discovered some splendid jaspers; one
a deep green, with white or cream-colored veins, and another a
deep red.
It was exceedingly hot among the rocks. While sketching I
sat in the full blaze of the sun, and was almost broiled. In the
height of summer the heat is fearful in most of these little valleys,
and the vegetation becomes equally as luxuriant as in a tropioal
clime. Our horses having rested, we began to cross another
chain, but this time rode over a mossy turf. Shortly after noon
we reaohed a point whence we looked down upon the Kara-goU,
or black lake, its waters appearing of a deep emerald green : this
effect is not produced by surrounding verdure, as it is nearly
encompassed by high mountains, and crags of yellowish and red
granite, that rise up into the region of eternal snow, while at the
upper end there is an enormous mass of dark basaltic rooks, and
their deep gray color contrasts beautifully with the yellow castel
lated forms at their base. On the opposite side of the lake there
are high' precipices of granite, and beyond these are mountains
with the snow of ages.
On reaching the shore the water appeared quite black, which
agrees with the Kalmuck name; at the same time I observed that
it was beautifully clear : we oould see large fish playing at a
great depth below the surface. The Cossacks oome here from the
pickets to fish in the winter, when the water is frozen, and large
numbers of talmane are caught. The hunter told me that he was
present with several Cossacks who had been sent to sound the
lake; their lines, when united, were five hundred sargens (3500
feet), and with these they did not reach the bottom. That it is
very deep I have no doubt, though not inclined to place confidence
in their measurements.
Having finished my sketches and dined, we forded the Karra-

316 A GRAND SCENE.
BOU, or black water, a large stream which runs from the lake, and
then crossed a very picturesque valley, where the Chinese had
formerly one of their pickets, now far removed from this spot
Our track was through a thickly-wooded region, extending over
the lower range of mountains down to the Katounaia, and a ride
of three hours brought us to the River Bi-tchuc-too. We had
changed from summer to winter three times in the course of our
day's ride ; such sudden variations of temperature are far from
agreeable. On a bright sunny morning, after riding up the valley a short
distance, we turned to the south, and began to ascend a very steep
and high mountain, from which I expected to see the Bielouka.
At first we rode over a fine grassy slope oovered with flowers :
red and yeWo-w primula, deep blue salvia, yellow and purple iris,
red and white dianthus, dark blue and white gentiana, with white
and blue aquilegia in large patches. We passed through these
beds, ascended to the region of moss and lichens, and in little
more than two hours were riding over eternal snow, in some places
solid and almost ice. Although very warm while in the sun, the
moment we passed into the shade cast over us by one of the higher
summits the wind seemed to cut through us. We pushed on and
reaohed the summit, when I found we were standing on a rocky
crest far above all the mountains to the west of the Katounaia;
even the highest summits of the Cholsoun were far beneath our
feet. A grand scene was spread out before us, the foreground,
a ridge of gigantic granite crags, oovered in part with mosses of
almost every hue, contrasting finely with the snowy sumraits near
us. Ridges and snowy peaks were rising in all directions, appear
ing like the waves of a stormy ocean suddenly congealed, and
receding in beautiful gradations down to the steppes of Chinese
Tartary, which at this distance looked like a sea of vapor.
Again we were disappointed ; the Bielouka was not visible from
the ridge on whioh we stood ; other high summits intervened and
shut out our view. We rode along the crest of the mountain for
about two versts, and then descended into a little valley, in the
bottom of which lay several small lakes. There were neither
trees nor shrabs in this plaoe ; short mossy grass was growing in
patches on the scanty soil, and sharp edges of slate were standing
up, showing that the strata had been heaped into a perpendicular
position. To the south rose half a mountain in a precipice of

A SINGULAR PLACE. 317
not less than two thousand five hundred feet above the lakes,
while on the north side, at a distance of about nine hundred yards,
are cliffs corresponding in outline to those opposite. Between
these preoipioes, at the head of the valley, a vast dome-like form
rises, and beyond are seen high snowy peaks, shooting up far into
the clear blue sky. Huge fragments of slate, which have fallen
from the south side, are lying scattered in wild confusion, forming
a very appropriate foreground to this scene of desolation. This
is one of the works of nature which must be seen to understand
its vast and gloomy grandeur. Only a faint idea of this scene
can be conveyed, even when painted on a large scale.
A ride of near an hour brought us to the head of the valley and
to the enorraous dome. From a distance the curve on its sides
appeared regular ; but we now found it eonsisted of huge blocks
of slate and granite, over which it was utterly irapossible to take
our horses. By riding up the north side of the valley there ap
peared a probability of our getting over, as a grassy slope extended
nearly to the top. Along the south side we could not proceed ;
one of our raen had made an attempt, and was stopped by a pre
cipioe about fifty feet high. We therefore turned our horses up
a steep ascent toward the cliffs on the north, and succeeded in
reaching the top of the dome. It was a most singular plaoe — a
complete chaos of granite, slate, jasper, and porphyry, heaped up
in the utraost confusion, over whioh it was irapossible to take the
horses. All the men, excepting Yepta and the hunter, were sent
to try and get them along near the base of the cliffs, meeting us
at the opposite side, while we three crossed this wonderful spot.
After scrambling over large blocks, we stood on what appeared to
be the outward rim of a vast circle, formed by a oonfused raass of
rocks thrown together in the wildest raanner, about twenty yards
broad, from which the stones sloped down into a great bowl or -
crater, from three to four hundred yards in diameter, and about
fifty feet deep. This was covered with blocks of stone of every
size, from a cube of twelve inches to a mass weighing fifty tons.
They were in such disorder that we found it difficult to cross;
indeed, it was a work of tirae and of con.siderable risk to our limbs.
Standing on the brim, I examined the precipices on either side,
and could not help concluding that the mountain had been burst
asunder by this mass of matter when heaved up. It took us near
two hours to reach ground over whioh we could ride. It was not

318

SHAITAN.

long before our horses arrived, when the men assured me that
they had despaired of ever getting them safely over such a rugged
place. To return by this route would have been regarded as
madness; we had, therefore, to seek another track.
We continued our journey along the side of a steep mountain,
still travelling southward, to strike on the Katounaia up toward
its source, and, after riding eight or ten versts, began our descent
toward the River Tourgan, passing over a bleak and desolate
country. The river on which we intended to encamp we observed
running like a small silver ribbon far away in a wooded valley,
and at a great depth below us. Every half hour brought us into
a warmer region ; at length, after a long ride, we reached the
woods, and found ourselves in a summer temperature, whioh both
men and animals found agreeable, after a cold ride of such dura
tion. The valley had long been in deep shade, but just as we
reached the river the sun was tipping the snowy peaks with his
crimson light ; this gradually faded away, and all below was
obscured in gloom. We pitched our tents in a sheltered spot on
the bank of a roaring torrent, and it was not long before we lighted
up the darkness by a glorious blaze, which spread its red glare on
all objects around. The rocky crater over whioh we had passed
was the subject of conversation round our camp-fire. The Kal
mucks say that Shaitan inhabits this singular spot, which to them
is a place of dread : they have an idea that something fearful has
happened there.
From this place our ride was along a craggy summit with
needle-like rocks rising out of the snow, the accumulation of ages.
Over this we had to find our way, and many a weary verst we
travelled. At length we were stopped by a deep mountain gorge,
into which we descended with very great difficulty. There we
found a torrent issuing from beneath ice and snow, and not far
from this there was a hot spring bubbling up into a basin formed
in the granite rooks. This was, indeed, a scene of desolation,
for, as the sun never penetrates this chasm, there was not a blado
of glass or a sprig of moss on the spot.

FORDING THE RAPID. 319
CHAPTER XXIII.
ASCENT OF THE BIELOUKA.
The latter part of the night had been extremely cold, and the
grass was now covered with a thick white frost, which made
everything look winterly. Before the sun's rays reached into the
valley, we mounted and continued our journey down the bank of
the Tourgan. This little river runs in a rocky bed, leaping and
foaming in innumerable cascades. After riding about three versts,
and making several vain attempts to ford^ we succeeded. There
is nothing either fine or picturesque in this valley, as the moun
tain slopes are gradual and unbroken. We had not gone far after
crossing the stream when we oame to a point whioh afforded us a
peep at the mountains on the south side of the Katounaia, and
the snowy peaks beyond. By this time the sun was sufficiently
high to shine upon this valley in his full splendor, and the change
was exceedingly agreeable in temperature — it was, in the space
of a few minutes, from winter to summer. As we descended the
valley the slate rocks began to appear, rising from fifty to one
hundred feet above the green sward over whioh we were riding.
Presently the river made a turn and flowed close at their base.
Yepta, the Kalmuck, said that this was the only place at which
we could ford the rapid stream, and here it was very difficult.
We stood on the high bank a few minutes, and surveyed the
boiling and rushing water beneath, while immediately above were
a succession of small falls, varying from six to ten feet in height.
At the bottom of the last there was a rapid extending about
twenty paces down the river ; then came another fall of greater
depth ; after which the torrent rushes onward over large stones
until it joins the Katounaia. Across this rapid, between the
falls, we had to make our passage, not one at a time, but five
abreast, otherwise we should be swept away. As we could
only descend the rocky bank in single file, and scarcely find room
at the bottom for our horses to stand upon, it was no easy matter
to form our party before plunging into the foaming water.
Yepta was the first to descend; I followed; then came three
others, with two led horses. To go straight across was impos-

320 ANECDOTE.
sible ; we could only land on some shelving rocks a few paces
above the lower fall. The brave Yepta gave the word, and we
rode into the rushing water knee to knee. Our horses walked
slowly and steadily on as the water dashed up their sides; in
stinct making them aware of the danger, they kept their heads
straight aoross the stream. The distance we forded was not
more than twenty paces, but we were at least five minutes doing
it, and it was with no small satisfaction that we found ourselves
standing on the rocks, some twenty feet above the water, wishing
as safe a passage to our friends. When I saw them draw up on
the little bank, and then dash into the stream, I felt the danger
of their position more than when crossing myself. Their horses
breasted the torrent bravely, and all were safely landed ; the dog
was placed on one of the pack-horses, where he lay between the
bags in perfect security. I am certain that every man felt a
relief when the enterprise was accoraplished, whioh would have
been impossible had the water been three inches deeper.
While engaged sketching this dangerous spot, the hunter re
lated to me the following anecdote, which gave a tragical character
to the scene : I mentioned before that the Chinese had a picket
near the Kara-goll, and it was by this route the soldiers came to
relieve their companions and bring their provisions. On one occa
sion a party of sixteen men arrived here on their way to join their
comrades at the Kara-goll. Six rode in abreast, but had only
gone three or four paces when they found the water unusually
deep, and the torrent swept them down. In a few moments five
of them went over the fall ; one man threw his long rein toward
his comrades on the bank, whioh was caught, and by this means
both man and horse were saved. The other poor fellows and
their horses were dashed against the rooks and killed almost im
mediately ; nor was there a single body of either found.
Continuing my ride down the valley, in about two hours I
reaohed the River Katounaia, running in a valley about a verst
broad, and covered with a rich grassy sward. Fine clumps of
birches and pines are scattered about, while the lower parts of
the mountains on either side are covered with a thick forest of
pieta and cedars. Sorae of these summits are bare rocks, and
others reach far up into the snowy region. Our track was now
up the banks of the river, and in about two hours we reached
the Tourgan, which has its rise in the mountains to the north-

FORD THE KATOUNAIA.

321

west of the Bielouka. The view up this valley is very fine : a
broad stream comes dashing over large rocks looking like snow ;
groups of magnificent cedars are growing on its banks, inter
mingled with graceful pendent foliage of the birch, colored in
rich yellow and orange tints, while the poplar has put on every
shade of color, from the most beautiful orange to the deepest
crimson. Overtopping these are rocky ridges of brown and pur
ple ; the more distant mountains take a more aerial tone ; and
beyond, the snowy summits of the chain shoot far into the sky,
looking like frosted silver against the deep ethereal blue.
Almost immediately after fording the Tourgan we were oblij^ed
to ford the Katounaia, high precipices rising from the bed of the
river stopping our onward course. This stream was not diffi:;ult
to cross, although five times as wide as the Tourgan. We puiihe'd
on toward a point where the valley makes a turn to the northward.

and here I expected that we should obtain a view of the mountain
we had travelled so far to see. I was the more anxious, as the
21

322 A DANGEROUS PLACE.
sky was without a cloud, a rare occurrence in these regions at thia
season of the year. Yepta, the hunter, and a Kalmuck, rode on
with me at a sharp gallop over very rough ground. Having pro
ceeded about five versts, we reached the bend in the valley, where
Bielouka stood before us in all his grandeur. I lost no time in
seeking out a good point whence to sketch this monarch of the
Altai chain. Adding this to my collection was something impor
tant gained, although I felt convinced other views might be met
with of greater sublimity. Yepta and two other Kalmucks
started with me on a sketching expedition aoross one of the spurs
that run from the Bielouka toward the south. Even the lower
part of it was extremely steep, whioh caused us to make many
zigzag windings. When about half way up, we came to a most
effectual barrier — perpendicular rocks about a hundred feet high.
We now turned toward the east, riding along the foot of these
precipices, and shortly arrived at an opening, but so steep that it
was doubtful if we could get up on foot. Leaving two Kalmucks
with the horses, Yepta and myself started, and shortly discovered
that it was almost impossible to keep our feet; one slip and a roll
to the bottom would have been our fate. At last we reaohed the
top, and found ourselves on a plateau rising gently for about half
a verst to sorae rugged crags, crowned with dwarf cedars; beyond
these rose the ioy summit of Bielouka sparkling in the sun.
Turning toward the southeast, we had a fine view looking down
into the valley of the Biela, or White Beryl, whioh has its source
among some high peaks of a very picturesque shape. The water
in this little river has a most peculiar appearance ; looking at it
from this distance, it is like milk tinged with green. The rocks
on this mountain are slate, of various colors — purple, blue, and
light green. I have no doubt the latter gives the tint to the
water. The sky was now without a cloud ; every mountain top waa
clear, and their outlines beautifully defined. While sketching
the -wlley of the Beryl, the two Kalmucks arrived with our
horses ; they had continued their ride along the foot of the cliffs,
and found by ascending one of the ravines that they could reach
us on the little plateau. I was glad, as this would enable us to
cross the mountain, and return by another route. Having finished
my sketch, we rode on toward the cliffs, from whioh we could
look down into the valley of the Katounaia On gaining the

MUSQUITOES. 323
crest we beheld the river running in its deep valley among dark
pines, which gave a gloomy aspect to the scene. The sun no
longer penetrated into these depths, although he was shining in
full splendor on everything around us. After riding a short dis
tance, I attained a point whioh afforded me a fine view of Bielouka,
a stupendous mass, whose mighty crags protrude through the snow
and ice of ages. It has a singular effect when the sunlight falls
on the different masses of snow, ioe, and rooks. The summit of
Bielouka is formed by two enormous peaks, shored up with innu
merable buttresses, which form ravines or small valleys, now filled
up with glaciers descending to the edge of some fearful preci
pices, which overhang the valley of the Katounaia.
The whole of the mountains around this giant of the chain
seem to be composed of slate ; on the lower spurs rich short giass
was growing, which would have made a fine pasture for thousands
of sheep. In this grass I found many spring flowers — the red
primula, sweet-scented violet, and several sorts of anemones.
Theirs will be but a short life, for in ten or twelve days deep snow
will cover them for nine or ten months. It is a long winter.
Three or four hundred feet higher the herbage had almost ceased ;
several varieties of mosses cover the stony ground and cling to
the rocks. A little higher, and these are lost — long before we
reached the top of one of the lower ridges separating the valleys
of the Katounaia and Beryl. While sketching even in this high
region I was attacked by legions of musquitoes : it is seldom they
have any visitors in this region. Having finished my sketches, I
was not sorry to move off into a more exposed situation, where
the breeze dispersed my tormentors. During the time I had been
occupied, Yepta had crossed the ridge, and discovered that it was
utterly irapossible for us to ascend to the Bielouka in that direc
tion. We rode slowly down the mountain, that in some parts
was exoeedingly steep ; and having gone more to the east, we had
a fine view down the Biela Beryl, which at the lower end of the
valley runs through a narrow and very deep gorge where there
must be many falls, sounds of the roaring water being borne to
us on the breeze. A little before dark we rode up to our camp,
and found a large blazing fire ; a fine deer had been added to our
larder, shot by the hunter in one of the valleys not far distant.
I gave the men a double quantity of wodky, and both Russians
and Kalmucks feasted till a late hour.

324

WATERFALLS.

About two o'clock next moming I was awoke by the hunter
throwing logs of wood on the fire, when, to my great regret, I
discovered that it was raining fast ; the wind was blowing hard,
and a thick fog driving along, obscuring everything at a short
distance from our fire. At nine o'clock the weather improved,
the driving clouds rolled up the mountain .sides, and the rain
ceased, notwithstanding whioh, Yepta and the hunter said we
should not be able to ascend the Bielouka. This induced me to
order a march to the hot springs on the shore of Racmanskoi
Lake, directly south from our present position. At ten we were
once more in the saddle, started across a small ridge, and de
scended to the Biela Beryl. The stream is less than the Katou
naia, the water thick and of a whitish green, appearing like a
clouded beryl, many of whioh I have seen in large crystals. I
found the slate in its bed of a light green color, some of it very
soft ; this is the cause of its peculiarity. A short distance from
where we crossed the stream it enters a deep and wild gorge,
through which it runs over many a fall, the roaring of the water
being heard to a considerable distance; but these falls can neither
be visited nor sketched. Not far from the view we came upon a
rounded mass of purple slate, quite isolated, and about eighty
feet high. As we approached it had the appearance of a huge
Kourgan or tumulus; I sketched it, and then climbed to its dome
like summit; the crevices were filled with flowering plants, some
still in bloom, and from others I collected seed. I disoovered a
small creeper, with a deep crimson flower of great beauty. A
month earlier this must have been a lovely spot.
The clouds were gradually rising ; all the lower range of moun
tains were clear, and the sun straggling to penetrate the thick
canopy above us. Soon aftei; leaving the valley we entered a
dense forest covering the north side of the mountain whioh sepa
rates the Biela and Tcherney Beryls. Huge masses of slate had
been hurled from its summit, forming a small chaos, about a verst
in width, among which large cedars were growing. We made an
attempt to ascend over this heap of ruins, but after an hour's
trial were obliged to give it up. Yepta proposed that we should
ride along the foot of the mountain to the westward; we did so,
and shortly came to the bed of a mountain torrent nearly dry.
Up this we turned our steps, and bad enough was the road ; but,
being free from trees and underwood, we could avoid the deed

BLACK BERYL. 325
holes. It is wonderful to look upon the deep channel plowed
through the mass of huge rooks that have been tossed about and
piled up into heaps. Enorraous trees have been uprooted, thrown
across these pillars, and form bridges over which Bruin may pass
when the torrent is raging without even wetting his paws. Other
large trunks have been snapped asunder as if they were mere
sticks. In about an hour we got over this difficulty, and con
tinued our ride through the forest. At a short distance from the
summit we passed over a small grassy hollow, and then crossed
the ridge. Before descending we waited a short time, hoping
the clouds would clear away from the top of Bielouka and let us
have a peep at his snowy crest. But the mass of vapor continued
to shroud him in its misty folds. ^
A keen blast made us desirous of a warmer berth in the valley,
but this was not accomplished until we had had a ride of five or
six versts over a high plateau, on which not a tree was growing,
and here we found it bitterly cold. At last we began the descent,
going for a short distance down a ravine, and then in a zigzag
course down the mountain side, on which the horses had great
difficulty in keeping their feet. It was so steep that even on foot
no man could walk either up or down in a straight course.
Having reaohed the bottom, we were soon on the bank of the
Tcherney Beryl, which runs in a picturesque channel formed in
the slate rocks. The water in this river is as clear as crystal, but
with a greenish tinge ; the deep purple mountains from which it
comes, and the dark slate over which it runs, may perhaps have
given it the name of Black Beryl. It has its source in a small
black-looking lake between high mountains, shortly after flowing
from which it is lost under some high rocks, and comes to day
light again on the opposite side of a spur from one of the moun
tains, which runs into the small valley ; its subterranean course
is several versts in length.
After leaving this river we had a rugged and rooky mountain
to pass, and the ascent was made with great difficulty over steep
and stony places. About midday we reached some large rocks
jutting out of the ground, among which I secured several choice
specimens of jasper ; blocks of considerable dimensions could be
obtained here. On the summit I found some beautiful aventu
rine, equal if not superior to the best I have seen from Taganai
in the South Oural. The top appears like a vast heap of ruins,

326

A SURPRISE.

not a block of stone lying in its original position. The devasta
tion extends over a space half a verst in breadth, and not less
than three versts in length ; how it has been caused I am at a
loss to conjecture. The horses were sent round, and I scrambled
over these rocks on foot, shortiy after passing which we began to
descend to the lake. The warm springs were instantly recognised
by the steam arising from them, and the water of the lake appeared
black as it lay in the deep rocky gorge. There is rich pasture
extending from these springs down the narrow valley for seven or
eight hundred paces, when it is lost in a thick wood, through
which the waters of the lake flow to the west, and ultimately
into the Biela Beryl. Crossing this, near to the hot springs, we
made our way through a thick wood, on the skirts of which, very
snugly encamped, were four Kalmucks and a woman, from the
upper valley of the Tsohbulishman. It was with no little sur
prise they saw our party burst through the thick underwood. We
merely saluted them and rode on to the shore of the lake, where
we encamped under some fine picta-trees, in front of which there
was a sandy beach eight or ten paces wide, stretching to the oppo
site side of the lake. Having flushed a woodcock near our
encamping ground while the men were pitching the tent and
making the other preparations for the night, I took my gun and
the dog and rambled along the skirts of the forest, and in less
than an hour I brought in five of these birds. The Kalmucks
and the woman had joined our party, and were sitting cosily
round the fire. About twenty paces from my tent and ten from
the lake, two hot springs bubbled up, the water so hot that I
could not keep my hand in it ; from this I went to the bath whioh
the Kalmucks have made: it is four feet deep, seven feet long,
and five feet wide. Several springs run into it, from which the
water overfiows into the lake. At a short distance from the bath
there is another place where the water rises rapidly; in a space
of fifty feet in diameter there are more than a hundred little jets
boiling up. 1 sat down on a stone near the middle of this spot,
and soon found it would give me a vapor-bath. The Kalmucks
from the Tschoulishman had been staying here thirteen days;
when they arrived there were eight Kirghis from the steppe near
Ilka Aral-Nor, but these had left two days before we arrived. I
regretted this much, as I might have met some old acquaintances.
From what I could leam, the bath is frequented by many people

A SNOW-STORM. 327
during the summer. Wild as the plaoe is, I must own it is far
more to my taste than the fashionable gambling mud baths of
Germany. As the day closed, in dark clouds gathered round some of the
high summits, betokening bad weather, and a cold wind rushed
down the mountain ravines and swept over the lake in gusts.
Yepta had a large quantity of fuel collected to keep up the fire
through the night, as he said it would be cold and stormy, and
every precaution was taken to secure the tents and afford us shel
ter. Soon after dark we could hear the roaring of the wind in
the forest above; nor was it long in paying us a visit, and lashing
the lake into a fury. The water was driven close up to our fire ;
presently it began to snow fast, and in a very short time all around
was wrapped in a wintry mantle.
While sitting at breakfast next morning our neighbors called
to announce their departure, fearing they might be stopped in
the mountains by a heavy fall of snow. They advised us to leave
as soon as possible, nor were we inclined to delay.
Five versts from the lake we oame to the point where the Kal
mucks turned to the east, and our route was directly north. We
saw them upon one of the ridges about a verst distant. Both
parties stopped for two or three minutes, then they descended
below the rocks, and we beheld them no more. While crossing
the high plateau we had a snow-storm and a great wind, rendering
our ride very disagreeable, and almost blinding us. In six hours
after leaving the lake we were sitting at our old encampment on
the spur of the Bielouka, where we dined and made ourselves
comfortable before a good fire ; but a more pleasant resting-place
having been proposed, we were once more facing the storm, which
had now become sleet and rain, and about an hour before dark
we arrived at a capital place, sheltered by rooks and trees.
The stormy night brought forth a bright morning, and as we
left our encampment the white snowy peaks of Bielouka became
brighter every minute, showing us that the sun was rising ; nor
was it long before they were tipped with his dazzling light, while
we were obscured in a cold and deep gray shadow. The valley
gradually became narrower as we advanced, the cedar and pieta
trees growing on the banks of the river in some places filling it
up; the sides were abrupt, in some parts nearly perpendicular.
On examining the water I found it was thick and of a whitish

S28 PARTY DIVIDED.
green, exactly like that in the Biela Beryl, proving that both are
colored in the same way. A ride of an hour brought us to a point
where the Katounaia is divided into two branches, one turning
toward the northwest, the other to the northeast. The latter has
its source among the glaciers of the Bielouka, and along this we
continued our ride. We soon reached a point beyond the last
straggling trees, even in the valley, while the little dwarfs on the
mountains, whioh appeared forcing themselves into the region of
snow, were left far behind us. A very scanty vegetation was
growing in the clefts of the slate rocks, but this shortly ceased,
and we entered upon a scene of desolation, rook and snow. The
cliffs on both sides are a light green slate, some of it very hard
and capable of receiving a fine polish; other portions are less
hard, and in places are reduced to the consistency of a soft
greenish clay, and this it is which colors the Katounaia and Biela
Beryl. It was impossible to proceed farther on horseback, and we were
obliged to ascend on foot over the rocks, ice, and snow that blocked
up the passage. Our party was now divided, the hunter, Yepta,
and three Kalmucks acoompanying me, all " good men and true."
They carried with them three bottles of wodky, a bottle of nalifka,
and some cold venison ; bread we had none. Our rifles and all
shooting apparatus were placed under some rocks to protect them
from wet (we had no fear of thieves stealing our arms) ; above
this point they would be useless, as no animals exist there. The
horses were sent to a place where they could feed, and orders
given to the two Kalmucks to return with them an hour before
dark. The other two men were to go to the camp and make all
ready for our night's lodgings. A little before ten o'clock we
began to climb the mass of ruin before us, the dibris of an ava
lanche fallen from the Bielouka during the summer. What an
awful crash there must have been when this mighty fragment
was hurled from near the summit of the mountain, cutting a
broad and deep gap through one of the glaciers, the accumulation
of ages, and carrying along in its course huge rooks, torn from
their native beds by the crystal mass as it rashed on into the
gorge, where they now lie in a confused heap, filling up the nar
row space to the height of one hundred and fifty feet ; while,
extending about five hundred yards up the ravine, from beneath
the blocks of ice and rock the Katounaia issues fOrth. After

" EXCELSIOR !" 329
scrambling over this rugged spot we descended to the little river,
or rather torrent, running among rocks, and often under ice and
enow, that have formed natural bridges, beneath which the water
rushes in many a fall.
We reached the foot of a glacier in a deep ravine, that extends
very far up the mountain ; from under two small arches in this
mass of ice the Katounaia gushes forth in two streams, and is soon
lost again under a bed of snow for a space of several hundred
yards. This is the veritable source of the river.
So far one object of my journey was gained; but the mighty
precipices of the Bielouka reared their rugged faces several hun
dred feet above us, and to ascend up the edge of the glacier was
impossible. We sat down on some rocks, and while making our
midday meal I scanned the towering crags with an anxious wish
to plant my foot upon them. Presently we turned to the west,
and entered a fearful-looking gorge, that appeared to lead up into
the mountain ; in this we found vast rocks and ice which had
fallen from above. Over these we scrambled, often at consider
able risk ; at length a gleam of hope shot down upon us. The
ravine terminated in a series of shelving rocks, forming almost an
inclined plane, at the top of which one of the peaks of the Bie
louka reared its lofty head. This gave us fresh vigor for the toil,
and our cry was now " Excelsior !" Step after step was climbed
up a vast stair of nature's own constructing, which at last landed
us on the frozen snow. Over this we walked with much difficulty
for about three hundred paces, when we stood at the base of the
two high peaks of Bielouka, overlooking every summit of the
Altai. To the west the vast steppes of the Kirghis stretched till
lost in hazy distance. To the south were some high peaks, and
many ridges descending toward the steppes on the east of Nor-
Zaisan, and to the Desert of Gobi. Several lakes were visible in
the mountains and on the distant steppes. Innumerable rivers
were winding their courses in the deep valleys like a net-work of
silver threads. It was a splendid vista, so many snowy peaks
starting up from the purple ridges and green valleys around
them. While examining with intense interest the sea of mountains,
and endeavoring to trace some of the routes by whioh I had
travelled among them, the piercing blast intimated that it was
time to move. Going about a hundred paces farther, we found

330

DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN.

ourselves at the head of another glacier, which descends by a deep
ravine toward the west. Beyond this lay the great hollow between
the two peaks. This we might reach, but to ascend either waa
impossible. They are cones from eight hundred to a thousand
feet high, covered with hard frozen snow, with a few points of the
green slate jutting through.
Hitherto the sky had been clear except to the northeast, where
rolling masses of clouds were seen. Now the vapor commenced
condensing into thick clouds around the peaks above us, which
caused Yepta and the hunter to urge our imraediate return. We
began to retrace our steps, slowly at first, over the slippery ice and
snow. After reaching the vast rooky stair our descent was rapid,
but in some parts we found it much more difficult than climbing.
When standing on the spot from which we had first seen the
high peak, I stopped to take a last look at the loftiest point in the
Altai ; but this was denied me. The mountain had put on his
robe of clouds, which were curling and waving in the breeze as
the vapor gathered rapidly around his head. Notwithstanding
some slipping and several tumbles, we oame down in an hour;
the ascent had taken more than three. The snow among the
rocks enabled us to see our old tracks, and kept us away from
some of the deep chains whioh would have rendered our descent
more difficult, in some parts exceedingly dangerous.
We lost no time in making our way over the wreck of the ava
lanche, as the clouds were descending fast ; indeed, most of the
lower mountains were covered, and to be caught in this valley by
a fog might prove a serious obstacle to our reaching the camp.
Yepta showed more anxiety than I had ever observed before, and
hastened us onward. We were not long in reaching the spot
where the Kalmucks were waiting with our horses ; then, having
secured our arms, we rode rapidly toward our tents. With all our
hurry, we were caught in a storm of snow, which almost blinded
us ; but it made our canvas home, with the blazing fire, look quite
comfortable. Bloming broke upon us through clouds of snow,
and we rode slowly down the bank of the Katounaia. As the
day advanced the storm became worse, which caused us to push
on ; still, our pace was slow, and not till six o'clock did we reach
the Tourgan.
The hunter and Yepta advised our fording at the junction of
the rivers, where the bed was broad and shallow. The water waa

CROSSING A TORRENT. 331
deeper than my men had anticipated, but ford it we must, and
that without delay. Our horses were drawn up in line on the
bank, and then we rode slowly into the stream, which dashed up
against their sides and on to our saddles. It was only by going
in a close body that the aniuials could stand and force their way
through the torrent. A party of three or four would been swept
away in a moment ; nor did we accomplish the passage without
considerable risk, and all felt a great relief when we stood on the
western bank and looked back at the rapid flood. Yepta placed
a stone near the edge of the water to see if it was rising, and in a
very short time it was covered ; had we been a few minutes later,
we could not have crossed the torrent. The night continued
stormy, with a cold wiud howling through the forest, making the
trees bend, and wrenching off their branches, which oame tumbling
dowu on our tents. All these were intimations not to be mis
understood, and the sooner we were among the Kalmucks on the
Abbaye Steppe the better. Still, we had a long ride and many
high mountains to cross before that warm and sheltered spot could
be reaohed.
I awoke long before daylight; shivering with cold, and found
the damp clothing frozen, and our fire nearly extinguished.
Presently one of the men turned out and heaped up a large quan
tity of fuel, which was quickly in a blaze. Just as the day broke
we were up and preparing for a long ride. In some of the pools
the ioe was half an inch thick, and the wind appeared to cut
through us. About a verst from our encampment we entered
upon a beautiful steppe, extending about ten versts, and the Ka
tounaia ran in a deep channel close to the mountains on the south
side. Along its bank fine clumps of trees were growing, giving
to the spot a rich pastoral character, enclosed by mountains of
greenish slate, the lower parts clothed with fine timber, their
summits jagged and bare. After passing the steppe the valley
becomes narrow, with a thick forest, through which we found it
difficult to force our way. We had been struggling in this wilder
ness two hours nearly when we oame upon an open space about
five hundred yards broad, extending from the river to the top of
the mountains on the north. An avalanche had swept over this
spot only a few weeks ago, without leaving a tree standing, and
very few lying on the ground. Beyond we found a morass, which
caused us much trouble, and great toil to our horses. At this

332

LOVELY SPOT.

point the valley is bounded on both sides by very high slaty pre
cipices, up which it was impossible to ascend, and get out of the
quagmire that surrounded us.
Farther down the valley we came upon a bed of slate rooks
extending quite across from one mouatain to the other. Ages ago
there had been a splendid waterfall on this spot, with a channel
sixty feet deep ; now the once magnificent fall has becorae a mere
rapid. The slate in the mountains and in the valley is still the
same formation as that on the Bielouka — soft, and of a pale green
color. After passing these masses the scenery becomes much
finer, and we enter upon the granite formation, which is thrown
up and tossed about in a most oapricious manner. Huge blocks
are strewn over the valley, extending into the bed of the river,
now become a broad stream dashing and foaming among the rocks,
creating a terrible roar. For many miles the river is one rapid,
which looks like snow when seen from one of the heights over
which we rode. About an hour before sunset we arrived at the
River Karaoul, which runs through a beautiful valley. Here we
encamped on a most lovely spot — a fine green sward, with clumps
of weeping birch-trees waving their golden foliage in the breeze ;
dark cedars and piotas extend far up the mountain sides, and
these are overtopped by granite crags, covered with moss of
every hue.
We had descended from the wintry region into summer. Many
flowers were still in full bloom ; the grayling were springing at
the flies whioh sported over the pools, and several broods of ducks
were swimming on the water. The Kalmucks soon procured us
a dish of the finny tribe, while the hunter and myself supplied
our larder with some of the feathered race, on whioh we all fared
sumptuously. Large blazing fires were made, and a double allow
ance of grog given to each man, after the hard toil in the snowy
regions we had just left. These troubles were now forgotten,
and my companions made the woods resound with their wild
songs. Yepta informed me that he had often hunted the alain
on the mountains a short distance to the northeast of our encamp
ment, and proposed to guide us over them, descending to the
Katounaia at a point from whioh we should find a track down to
the mouth of the River Koksa. By following this route we should
save a day's ride and pass through a new region. I at once de
cided that this should be our line of march in the morning.

BEAR DISTURBED. 833
When we rose from our turfy beds the day was just breaking ;
long streaks of yellow rays were shooting up beyond the gray and
purple crested mountains over whioh we must ride, while a gloomy
twilight overshaded all the lower ridges and deep valleys. A
very short time was spent in eating our frugal meal, when we
mounted, forded the River Karaoul, and began to ascend the lower
ridges. When these were crossed we got into a finely-wooded
region, extending far up the higher slopes. Here we had no
track to guide us toward the summit, and frequently we found the
wood so thick that it was exceedingly difficult to penetrate ; nor
could we get a view of any of the peaks above us.
After riding about two hours we came to a more open place,
and found a garden of raspberries extending along the mountain
for three or four versts. The fruit was very large and ripe, and
oould have been gathered in enormous quantities. We had not
ridden far when we came upon many well-trodden tracks, crossing
in every direction, made by the bears, who are extremely fond of
this frait.
Having made a most delicious repast, we pushed forward toward
the summit, still riding through a thick wood, and along the edge
of a steep descent. The roaring of a mountain torrent was heard
in the deep valley, but no traces of it could be seen. We had
not gone far in this dense and tangled forest when other sounds
greeted our ears, which brought some of our horses to a stand in
a moment. At a very short distance in front of us we could hear
some animals rushing through the brushwood. Yepta and the
hunter said they were bears. Our steeds were left with the men,
and we started on foot in pursuit. In a few minutes we found
the track, when my two companions discovered that we had dis
turbed a female and her two cubs. They were running fast,
and left us far behind. To continue the chase would have been
useless, for it was impossible to come up with them before they
reached the valley, where, among the slate rocks, broken into
rugged crags and precipices, they would soon find a hiding-place
out of our reach.
A call from Yepta brought our party to us, when we continued
our journey up the mountain, and rode out of the forest. For
about two versts our path was over a fine mossy turf; after pass
ing this we entered upon a much more difficult track, through

334

A DIFFICULT PATH.

fallen rocks and large patches of snow. From this place we had
a most dreary and tedious ride. Summit after summit was
crossed, but not a tree presented itself to vary the dull aspect
around us. We found several tracks made by the stags, but not
a single animal. Yepta and the hunter thought we might find
them in some of the lower valleys, as they had left this region
for the winter.
We still kept riding on, and hour after hour was passed amid
the rooks and snow. At last we began to descend toward the
wooded region, and soon obtained a view of the Katounaia run
ning in a deep valley three thousand feet below us, and through
this forest we must descend to the river. We found a track made
by animals, and followed it downward ; but the path, which was
easy for stags and deer, was difficult for our horses. In many
places we had to pass over a narrow ledge, with deep precipices
beneath our feet, often rising high above our heads. In one place
we had to ride over what the Kalmucks call a "bomb;" this is
a narrow ridge of rocks, along which but one horse can pass at a
time. Should two persons meet on many parts of these bombs,
one of the horses must be thrown over; they oould not pass or
turn around. As we had now reached the track by whioh the
Kalmuck hunters ascend these mountains, Yepta ordered a halt,
and sent one of his companions on foot to the other end of this
fearful ridge, hid from our view by some high crags, round which
we had to ride. In somewhat less than half an hour he returned,
but without his eap ; this had been left to signal to any hunters
who might come up that a party were crossing the bomb.
Yepta and the hunter told me to drop the reins on ray horse's
neck, and he would go over with perfect safety. The former led
the van ; 1 followed, as desired, at three or four paces behind hira.
For the first twenty yards the sensation was not agreeable. After
that I felt perfect confidence in the animal, and was sure, if left to
himself, he would carry me safely over. The whole distance was
about five hundred paces, and occupied us about a quarter of an
hour in crossing. In some places it was fearful to look down ;
on one side the rocks were nearly perpendicular for five or six
hundred feet, and on the other so steep that no man could stand
upon them. When over, I turned round and watched the others
thread their way across ; it was truly terrific to look at them on
the narrow and stony path : one false step, and both horse and

CEDAR FOREST. 335
rider must be hurled into the valley a thousand feet below I
These are the perils over which the daring sable-hunters often
ride. With them it is a necessity ; they risk it to obtain food,
and not for bravado or from foolhardy recklessness, like that of
some men who ride their horses up and down a staircase. Kal
muck and Kirghis would laugh at such feats. I have seen men
who would ride their horses along the roof of the highest cathedral
in Europe if a plank eighteen inches wide were secured along the
ridge ; nor would they require a great wager to induce them to
do it ; theirs is a continual life of danger and hardship, and they
never seek it unnecessarily.
After passing this slaty ridge, whioh runs aoross the deep val
ley, we descended rapidly through a thick forest of cedars, sorae
of them of very large dimensions. Farther down we passed into
a dense mass of underwood, among which were pines and a few
larches of immense size, some one hundred and fifty feet in height.
What splendid masts they would have made ! Here they must
grow and decay, or be shivered by the lightning; perhaps the
hand of man will never be raised against them. Again we dis
turbed a bear : he was seen for a moment as he rushed aoross the
narrow track into the thick forest. We could hear the cracking
of the branches, but to follow him was impossible. Shortly after
this we descended upon a beautiful grassy plot with clumps of
birch and mountain ash. Just as we entered a fine buck bounded
past, about fifty paces in front ; the dog turned him, when Yepta
and myself fired at the same moment, and he fell : he was pierced
with two balls. The hunter and two Kalmucks dashed off at full
speed toward the river. In a few minutes we heard the orack of
their rifles : two other deer were swimming the river, but not one
of the balls took effect. We had, however, secured a splendid
buck, in prime condition. I need not say that my fellows made
a sumptuous supper, and spent a glorious evening with their grog
and tobacco.
This was a favorite haunt of the Kalmuck hunters : it was a
fine green spot, about six hundred paces in length, formed by a
circular indent into the mountains, with high rocks rising up per
pendicularly from the river at both ends. The only path in or
out was the small ravine by which we had entered, while in front
of us ran the River Katounaia, at this point one hundred and fifty
yards wide, deep and rapid. Immediately opposite the rocks at

^^^ CROSSING THE KATOUNAIA.
the lower end of this plot a great " parrock" (a succession of falls)
commenced, extending for about half a mile. The water was
tumbling and dashing over and among large rooks, making a
tremendous roar. It was not pleasant music, knowing we must
cross a short distance above it ; but no advantage was to be gained
by brooding over the risk. We enjoyed our supper, and slept as
soundly as if the river were bridged with granite for our passage
in the mornino;.
The Kalmuck hunters have a canoe here in which they row
over, but it was secured upon the opposite bank under some
bushes. The first thing to be done was to obtain the littie boat,
and carry all our baggage and saddles aoross. One of the Kal
mucks undressed and walked as far up the bank as possible, then
plunged into the stream. This was quite necessary, to avoid being
carried down into the falls. The man was a strong swimmer;
nevertheless, he was floated far down the stream before he reached
the opposite shore. His companions had no fear for him, and in
a short time he launched the canoe and rowed it aoross. A small
quantity of baggage was placed in it and paddled over by two men,
and they had to cross many times before all our traps were on the
opposite bank. At last this was done, and then began the diffi
culty of getting our horses over.
One little Kalmuck, whom I had named " Chort" (devil) from
his daring and antics, had been my companion on several different
rides, and had given me ample proof of his courage. He was
short in stature, and slightly built, supple in his limbs, and as
active as a panther. He had a high round head, with a long tuft
of jet black hair hanging from the crown far down his back, a pair
of jet black sparkling eyes, and a face so characteristic that it must
have been handed down to him through several generations. This
little fellow had been selected by Yepta to take over the cattle.
He stripped and mounted one of the horses, when all of them were
driven up the bank to a plaoe about three hundred yards above
the falls ; beyond this point the bank was too deep for them to
walk into the water. There was many a run before they were all
got together to the proper place ; they evidently knew that the
swim would be a difficult one, and were afraid. At last the whole
sixteen were in the stream, and the little Kalmuck on the last
horse, on which he kept to the lower side to drive them up. The
moment a horse was carried below him, he slipped into the water.

SUDDEN CHANGES. 337
swam to him-, laid hold of his tail, sprang upon his back like a
monkey, and began shouting and driving the rest up the stream.
This was repeated a dozen times or more before he got them
across, and he was not more than twenty yards above the falls
when he landed them all safely.
I have had much experience among the wild tribes of Asia ; I
have swum rivers with them, and have forded most dangerous
streams in their company ; many brave and daring spirits have
been my companions, but I have never met the equal of my little
" Chort." Our path was now down the banks of the Katounaia, which
runs in a narrow valley, with mountains rising above the line of
vegetation on eaoh side, and from many points the snow-capped
summits of the higher chain were seen. I added several sketches
to my collection from different positions in this valley, represent
ing scenes of great beauty and grandeur. We had descended to
a summer climate, in some parts the ground being covered with
flowers, and the grass green and fresh, like spring. A week or
ten days later, these valleys, now decked in all their summer
beauty, will be swept over by the wintry blast, and scorched as
if a fire had passed over them. So sudden are the changes, that
I have seen the foliage cut down in one night. We have gone to
sleep around our fire on a fine summer evening, and in the morn
ing awoke under a coverlet of six inches of snow. Our ride
to-day was not a long one, as I found much occupation for my
pencil ; indeed, one view looking down the valley to Tigeretzkoi
Belock was exceedingly beautiful, the rich tints of the foliage on
the lower mountains varying from the deep green of the pines to
the pale yellow and orange on the birches, consisting of every
shade of these colors to red, until they assume the deepest and
most brilliant crimson. Above these rose up the brown and
purple crests of the Tchurish Mountains, while beyond, and stand
ing out from the rich golden sky, with its fieecy crimson clouds,
was Tigeretzskoi, whose rocky and ragged sides were shaded into
a misty purple, and its summit capped with snow, sparkling like
a raby as the sun went down. Even my Kalmucks were not
insensible to the beauty of this prospect, but to the Russian it
presented no charm. He has no love for Nature or admiration
of her attractions.
A little after sunset we reached the mouth of the River Tschu-
22

338

MOUNTAIN ASH.

gash, where it falls into the Katounaia. This is also a most
lovely spot; it is sheltered by some very high rooks of fine green
and purple jasper, their tops fringed with birch and mountain
ash, the latter covered with bunches of deep scarlet fruit, used in
almost every dwelling throughout Siberia. The wealthy house
wife makes a nalifka from it whioh is considered exeellent : it
has a fine bitter flavor. They make it into a preserve, and some
dry the fruit in sugar. A delicious salad is also made by placing
the bunches in large jars, filling them up with vinegar slightly
sweetened with honey : this is found in most cottages. There are
very few wild fruits which the Siberian does not turn to account,
and, fortunately for him, his country abounds with them.
On this spot we were encamped about twenty-five feet above
the water, and at the head of a great " parrock," or rapid, extend
ing about half a verst. The river was narrowed at this point to
about one hundred yards wide ; the bed was a mass of large rooks,
some of them standing eight or ten feet above the water. Against
these the torrent rashed with such force that the water was thrown
up in thick columns of white spray fifteen to twenty feet in height,
breaking and falling in hundreds of little streams. Other rooks
were covered, over whioh the flood rolled and surged in fearful
eddies, in many parts forming whirlpools. The noise was deafening.
I was sitting sketching on a large rook overhanging the stream,
when I perceived the little " Chort," divested of every rag of
clothing, walking away from the river. The other Kalmucks
were standing in a group on the edge of the bank, watching him.
I could not understand what they were at, but was soon enhght
ened by observing the man run toward the bank and leap into the
boiling flood. He plunged head foremost, the next moment rose
to the surface, and was swept past like an arrow, but with his
head well out of the water, to see the rocks before him. I
expected to behold him dashed against some of the huge stones,
or be sucked under by the eddies ; but on he went, like a fish
darting past. Two of his friends ran along the bank, and were
Boon left behind. I could see him fioat on for about one hundred
yards ; beyond this he was lost to my sight — I feared for ever.
It is impossible to describe my feelings during the few minutes
I watched for him in the comparatively calm water at the bottom
of the rapid. Presently, to my great relief, I beheld hira climb
the bank, where he sat down on a stone for two or three minutes.

HARBINGERS OP WINTER. 339
when, noticing my presence, he ran to me laughing. .His friends
were enchanted, nor did they seemingly think that he had run
any risk, for they stood around him talking and laughing. Fear
ing, as he did not attempt to dress, that they were urging him to
try the feat again, I walked up to them to prevent his risking his
life a second time.
The hunter translated into Russian his reply to my remon
strance : " Eta nitchevo Barin ; ya ochin lubit !" (It is nothing,
sir; I love it.) Seeing they had all made up their minds that he
should do it again, I walked back to the rock, taking out my watch
to note the time occupied in passing the rapid. Again I saw him
take the fearful plunge, but this time it was a little higher up the
river. He shot up out of the water like a duck, looked forward,
and the next moment went past me as if thrown from a catapult.
In three minutes and twenty-eight seconds I watched him leave
the water at the bottom of the rapid. Again the fearless fellow
came running up to me laughing like a schoolboy.
We had a heavy storm of thunder in the night, with many
fearful flashes of lightning, and the rain poured down in streams,
against which our canvas and leafy covering formed no protection.
These storms are certain harbingers of winter. Before daylight a
council was held by Yepta, the hunter, and the other Kalmucks,
when it was decided that we should take the shortest route to the
village of Ouemonia. After a ride of six hours in rain and sun
shine, we reached the village about noon, to the great joy of every
one, the people having already become very anxious on our account.
I ordered a man to be sent to Kokstschinskoi to get horses and
men in readiness fOr our arrival. The little old woman occupied
herself in preparing me a dinner, consisting of eggs, potatoes,
butter, and delicious honey, upon whioh I feasted most sumptu
ously, and then said adieu to my companions. They were brave
fellows ; I was sorry to part with them, and I think they will not
soon forget me. Having crossed the Katounaia in a boat, I found
men and horses ready to take me to Kokstschinskoi, where we
arrived in about an hour. Here were fresh horses and new com
panions, and in less than half an hour we rode out of the village
and crossed the little steppe. Our horses were put into a sharp
trot, as I intended to sleep at our old encarapment, where we had
the terrible thunder-storm on my way hither. It was a long ride,
but the animals were fresh, and carried" us briskly over the grassy

3-10

A SCOTCH MIST.

turf. We passed through the forest, then had a gallop over the
steppe, and a little after nightfall were once more sitting under
the larches, taking our evening meal. It was a calm night ; the
roaring of the cataracts on the Koksa was heard, sometimes with
a deafening noise, then the sound came as if breathed in the soft
est sigh. This music fell most agreeably on the ear, and soothed
our spirits.
Long before daylight the wind was blowing in squalls, accom
panied by drenching showers, a state of things far from pleasing.
As the morning broke we saw all the mountain tops enveloped in
heavy clouds, which passed rapidly across their sides, sending
down upon us a sort of Scotch mist, that dampened our clothing,
but not our spirits. Our morning meal was quickly over, and
once more we were on our road. At the commencement our ride
was rather disagreeable, for a pouring rain was driving in our
faces ; but this did not continue long. The clouds began to rise
like a mighty curtain, and one sumrait after another appeared,
covered with its winter garments. We were now leaving the
River Koksa several versts to the south, and following a track
through a number of small steppes, lying between picturesque
ridges of granite, and forming a beautiful landscape.
After a ride of nine hours a Kalmuck aoul was seen some seven
or eight versts to the south. Two of my companions were sent
to obtain horses for our whole party, and men to act as guides to
the source of the Tchurish, while we went on to seek for a place
on which to encamp for the night. A few versts brought us to
the River Tschugash, tumbling and leaping in many a cascade
down a small valley in the mountains which separate these steppes
from the valley of the Tchurish. A nice wooded spot was selected
for our resting-place, the tents were pitched under some pine-
trees, and we were soon made snug for the night. The clouds
were dispersed, and the evening sun was tinging every mountain
top with his glorious rays, while all below was bathed in misty
shadow. It was a beautiful calm evening ; scarcely a leaf was
moved ¦ and the smoke from our fires rose up high into the air,
far above our lofty pines. The thrushes were singing their even
ing songs on many a branch, while the call of the reptchick (tree-
partridge) to its mate was heard in the neighboring forest. This
proved fatal to many; I very soon shot sufficient for our supper,
to the great gratification of my men. I had returned to our

DRUNKEN K.iLMUCK VISITORS. 341
camp, and was sitting quietly drinking my tea, when five Kal
mucks arrived at full speed, reeling on, their horses, quite drunk.
My two men, with other Kalmucks, followed quickly, bringing
horses for our journey to-morrow.
My visitors had come with the hope of getting wodky, but this
I would not give. I offered a tumbler of tea to the chief, which
he rejected, and demanded arrak in a very insolent manner. He
was sitting on the ground directly opposite to me, tall, thin, and
apparently slight built, with a most unprepossessing countenance,
rendered almost demoniac by the spirit he had drunk. His bro
ther, a powerful man, sat beside him, also demanding arrak, but
I took no notice of him : the other three were the great man's
attendants, and crouched on their haunches close beside him,
ready to do his bidding. My men were all engaged with the
preparations for our supper — some plucking the reptchioks, others
broiling venison, watching and turning each stick with its long
string of chops, and every now and then burning their mouths
while trying to ascertain if the former were cooked. I continued
quietly drinking my tea, yet keeping a sharp eye on my swarthy
visitors, who were beooming more clamorous in their demands for
arrak. I knew full well, if their wishes were complied with,
they would stay the night and give us much trouble.
The chief slipped his arms out of the sleeves of his kalat,
letting it drop over his sash, whioh was tied round his waist.
His brother and another of his associates followed his example,
exposing their naked and brawny forms, that looked unpleasantly
dark and greasy. Whether this was done to intimidate me or to
cool themselves, I could not tell ; but on one point my mind was
quickly made up, that they should keep at a respectful distance,
the inside of their garments swarming with filthy insects.
The two brothers now spoke together for a few minutes, then
the chief again bellowed out for arrak, of whioh I took no notice.
The man, however, having decided that the affair should not end
thus, raised his hand, and deliberately knocked my tea over, send
ing the glass to some paces distant. In a moment, dropping my
saucer, I returned the compliment, sending him his full length on
the grass. His bulky brother and myself simultaneously sprung
to our feet, he trying to get his long knife out of its sheath ; but
before he oould accomplish this movement, he also was sent
sprawling on the grass. Seeing this unequal conflict, my men

342

WINTRY REGION.

lost no time in secunng the whole party. The chief was placed
on his horse, and he and his fellows threatened with being tied to
the trees till morning if they did not leave our camp at once.
This had its effect ; and, finding we were the stronger, they rode
away, vowing vengeance. It was now decided that the fire should
be moved into the forest, leaving our tents in the gloom, as a
larger gang might steal upon us and fire at us from a distance,
and their rifles were not to be treated with contempt. A sentinel
having been placed in the shade, to be relieved every hour, we
were soon sleeping soundly. Long before morning the rain
poured down in torrents, while a strong wind threatened to rip
open our tents and soatter the canvas in strips among the bushes.
It was quite evident that the weather was breaking up, which dis
turbed me much more than the probability of a Kalmuck attack.
At last the morning broke, and all were busy with preparations
for our departure ; but the wind roared through the forest, and
the rain and sleet fell thick. Even the lower hills were oovered
with snow, opposing a complete barrier to our journey across the
high chain to the source of the Tchurish. I was therefore reluc
tantly compelled to give up this project, and turn in another
direction toward the Yabagan. Having determined to reach
Tohtchulika this evening, I began to ascend the mountain which
forms the watershed between the Abbaye River and the Tchurish.
In many parts this was stony and rugged, with large blocks of
granite scattered over the surface,. often rendering it difficult
riding. From the summit of this high ridge we had a view of
the mountains on the Katounaia, and those around the Bielouka,
all deep in snow. It was fortunate that we left that wintry
region, for a delay of two days might have detained us in the
mountains, or at least have rendered our return both difficult and
dangerous. We descended through a thick forest, in about two hours
reached the steppe, and shortly afterward found a Kalmuck aoul,
where we got fresh horses. With them we gallopped on at a
dashing paoe over a smooth grassy steppe toward the northwest,
and in about two hours were on the bank at the Tchurish. Here
we dined and rested our steeds, but only for a short time, as we
beheld a heavy storm gathering in the mountains toward the
source of the river. I added some splendid specimens of jasper
and porphyry to my collection from the bed of this stream. Late

A CAP LOST. 343
in the afternoon we reaohed another Kalmuck aoul in the Yaba
gan Steppe, and while fresh horses were sought for, I sat down
on a rock and sketched a beautiful view; but, before I had
finished, the rain began to pour.in torrents. When the men and
horses arrived I was completely drenched ; to my great surprise,
only three saddle-horses were brought, but these were accompanied
by two telagas with three horses in eaoh. This mystery was soon
explained : these little carts had been left here by the villagers,
and some of my men preferred taking them instead of riding.
As this was a matter whioh concerned themselves alone, I did
not care to interfere. A splendid horse was brought for me ; the
other two were also good, therefore we should be able to go over
the ground very fast.
My companions on horseback were a Russian peasant from
Kokstschinskoi, and a young Kalmuck from the aoul, with three
men in each of the telagas. As the rain was pouring down, we
were anxious to cross the steppe as rapidly as possible, to reach
the forest about ten versts distant, in whioh we should find some
shelter. Our horses consequently started at a gallop, and soon
left the telagas far behind. We reached the bank of the Tchu
rish, and were riding close to the river, when suddenly a great
gust of wind carried the Kalmuck's cap into the stream. We
-could not recover it ; it was lost among the rocks and whirlpools ;
so on we gallopped to reach the forest, with the hope of finding
shelter from the pelting storm. At length a clump of thick
cedars stretched out their branches, protecting us effectually from
rain and wind. Here we remained until the telagas came up ;
then, as my clothing was completely saturated, I deemed it pru
dent to be again in motion, therefore continued my course, listen
ing to the howling of the wind among the higher branches. Our
pace was a sharp trot, and the telagas kept up with us till we
reached a torrent at the edge of the forest, over which we rode
our horses without much difficulty; but the case was different
with the little carriages, as the men had to seek a place where
the banks were not so abrupt before they could cross. Here we
left them, and proceeded, exposed to the full force of the storm.
After riding a few versts the rain changed into snow, and began
falling fast, with a great bouran blowing in our faces, rendering
our progress almost impossible.
In about an hour we entered another forest, which afforded us

344

HORSE-THIEVES.

shelter; and when our companions oame gallopping up, I ordered
the Kalmuck boy into one of the telagas, as I knew it would be
impossible to cross the river with the carriages. The peasant and
myself left them and rode on, but the storm increased so much
that we could hardly make our horses face the blast.
After riding a few versts the man stated that it was impossible
to proceed, tumed his horse toward a large clump of trees, and
said he would remain. I pushed on, and presently heard him
following ; in shorty he dared not stop so long as I rode on. The
snow almost blinded us, and was lying thick on our clothing,
creating a chilling sensation whenever our speed was slackened.
Our way was down the valley of the Tchurish, at about a verst
distant from the river. On both sides of this valley high moun
tains ascended ; those to the south were covered with a dense
mass of cedar, while those to the north reared their rugged crests
of slate, rendered exceedingly ghost-like by their clothing of pure
white. As we were riding along we met a peasant, who inquired
if we had seen a party of Kalmucks, five or six in number, that
had stolen his horses. He was giving chase to the thieves, but
with little chance of suooess. He told me that it was fifteen
versts to the Kaier Koomin. I knew that it was about the same
distance thence to the village; but the measure of distance given
by a Russian peasant is very doubtful, and I suspected that this
one was far from correct.
My companion had never been in this valley, so that it fell to
my lot to be guide ; no easy task with six inches of snow on the
ground, and all traces of the track obliterated. We were com
pelled to ride with our heads bent forward, or the snow blinded
us as it was swept along by the wind. We were proceeding at a
trot, when I received a blow whioh laid me flat on my horse's
back ; for a minute or two I could see nothing but sparks gleam
ing before my eyes; but as soon as vision returned, I recognised
my man holding up my hat, and the branch of a tree whioh had
been broken off by a blow that had formed a bump on my fore
head phrenologists would have found some difficulty in classifying.
This made me keep a shaijp lookout for trees ahead. Our pro
gress was now very slow; the horses were floundering in a morass,
nor oould we tell which way to get out of it. As our route must
be onward, turning to the right or left was only loss of time.
At length we reached the forest, and got upon hard ground and

SWIMMING A STREAM. 345
into calm weather; still, the snow fell fast; but, in comparison,
the temperature was like summer, while the trees were so thick
we could only hear the blast as it roared over the topmost
branches. We had ridden more than two hours since the man told us
it was fifteen versts to the Kaier Koomin. Although I had
travelled over this country before, the snow had made such a
change that it was impossible to ascertain our position. A little
farther on in the forest we came upon two Kalmiicks, who had
made afire and sheltered themselves, each having' a piece of birch
bark on his back toward the wind. We stoppedj and my man
had some conversation with them, after whioh he turned to me
and said it was an hour's ride to the river, and useless going on,
as the Kalmucks had declared that we could not ford the stream,
the water being high. He proposed our encamping here for the
night ; to this I would not consent, and rode on ; in a few min
utes he followed, and very shortly afterward the two Kalmucks
joined. Night was now drawing on apace, and the wind was ex
ceedingly cold, but we pushed on fast toward the river. The
Kalmucks were pretty correct in the time it required to ride the
distance, and it was quite dusk when we reached the bank. We
were now brought to a stand, for the water was much higher than
usual. My man turned toward me and said " Plavit nilza" (We
cannot swim it). I answered him by riding into the stream,
when at a few paces from the bank my horse began to swim ; the
other three followed, and we were carried two hundred paces
farther down the stream than the usual fording-place before we
reached the opposite bank, where we all landed safely. My man,
wet as he was, avowed his satisfaction by exclaiming " Dobery"
(Very good); even the Kalmucks expressed their approval, as
they saw neither the weather nor -the water deterred me from my
object. We soon found the track leading to the village, and I
! pushed on at a sharp trot, as I began to shiver from the piercing
cold, already freezing our clothing.
The snow ceased falling; the moon rose, giving light to our
path; but it now became a dreary ride, and our poor horses were
tired. Fortunately, I knew my way to the foot-bridge over the
Tchurish, which we reaohed at a very late hour. Leaving our
horses in the care of the two Kalmucks, we crossed, and arrived
in my old quarters at the merchant's a few minutes before twelve

346

SNUG QUARTERS.

o'clock. I sent for the Startioner, who ordered two men to go
and bring our horses and the Kalmucks. I also told him about
my companions left behind, when he instantly ordered five raen
and seven horses to be sent to their assistance. I now asked for
some wodky ; the merchant brought me a bottle ; I drank two
wine-glasses, and then sent it to the three men, who had got into
snug quarters in a warm kitchen. The merchant brought me a
kalat, or dressing-gown, and helped to strip off my wet things.
My shooting-boots were filled with water from swimming the
river, and now it was no easy matter to draw them off; however,
after many efforts, I stood without them, and was soon divested
of my other garments, sitting like a Kirghis, with only one
covering. One of my companions on a former joumey in this region came
to see me, and asked how far we had come ; I told him from the
River Tschugash; but I saw that neither he nor the merchant
believed me, as they declared it to be one hundred and seventy
versts — about 1J4 miles. They went and asked the peasant
whence we had travelled ; he also told them from the Tschugash.
We had been seventeen hours on the road, and about fifteen on
horseback, having changed our horses three times. Bly host now
regaled me with tea, and, having taken sufficient to stave off the
cold, I lay down on some rugs spread on the floor, and slept
soundly till long after the cook had called the peasants to their
day's labor.
On opening my eyes I observed that the sun was, shining
brightly through the small -window, which caused me to leave my
hard bed and prepare for another ride. The merchant brought
my clothing dry and warm, and I was soon rigged up for the
road. My first inquiry was about my companions left behind;
but they had not yet arrived ; this vexed hae, as I was anxious to
reach the Korgon without delay. About ten o'clock they rode
into the yard, to my great joy. Before midday we started on our
ride over the mountains, and in less than two hours came to tho
gorge of the Korgon. Entering this ravine at the Karaoul there
is nothing particularly striking, but after riding five or six versts
and turning an angle, the gorge bursts upon the traveller in all
its grandeur. The precipices rise up two thousand feet, broken
into rugged and picturesque shapes, while the torrent foams and
roars beneath. This is, undoubtedly, the finest gorge in the Altai.

JASPER VASES. 347
.Jasper of various colors is obtained here in very large masses. I
saw the workmen cutting some blockj for columns fourteen feet
long ; they were obtained from near the summit of one of the
highest precipices, and are lowered to the torrent with great diffi
culty. The labor of cutting out the large blocks of jasper is
enormous ; the workmen drill holes five inches apart the whole
length of the block, and to the depth required ; into these they
drive dry birch-wood pins, which they keep watering till they
swell and burst off the mass.
The workm"en are sent to the Korgon from the different Zavods,
of which sOme are as much as six and seven hundred versts dis
tant. They arrive here in May, and remain till the end of Sep
tember, when they all return to their homes. Small stone huts
are built against the precipices at the bottom of the ravine, where
they live, stowed away in filth and wretchedness, feeding upon
black bread and salt, and receiving their poor pittance of two
shillings and ninepence a month. Theirs is, indeed, a hard lot.
Several vases from these jaspers were exhibited in the Crystal
Palace in 1851, and the workmen are proud of the medal awarded
to the works at Kolyvan. It is only in the palaces of St. Peters
burg that the magnificent productions from the Korgon can be
seen to advantage ; there they are to be found in jaspep, porphyry,
and aventurine. I made several sketches of this mountain gorge,
so rich in its varied rooks.

CHAPTER XXIV.
THE COUNTRY OF THE KALKAS — ANCIENT MONGOLIA.
My wanderings ndV led me to the Gobi, -^^hose vast steppes,
sandy deserts, and high mountain chains give a peculiar character
to'this region. The traveller who attempts to force his way into
a land abounding with such striking scenery must be prepared
for many difficulties and some risks. Perhaps before my visit
these scenes were never looked upoa by European eye, nor ever
sketched by pencil. He who follows on my track will find that
his rifle will be required for more purposes than obtaining a din
ner. His courage and determination will be tested 'by meu who

°4° TCHUCK-A-BOI.
seldom show fear, and are ever on the alert. It is only by a steady
band, a quick eye, and skill with his weapon, that he can remain
safe from acts of violence. Plunder is the common trade ; and,
what^ is worse, the traveller, if not murdered, is carried off into
certain slavery.
My party consisted of three Cossacks — brave and honest fel
lows, who would have dared any danger. Long may they live,
and be happy on their land near Kourt Choum. To these were
added seven Kalmucks, four of them strong, sturdy hunters, and
all accustomed to a hard mountain life. Powder and lead I had
a sufficient store, and we mustered eight rifles. These Kalmucks
had their hair cut close, except a tuft growing on the top of the
head, plaited into a long tail, which hung far down their back,
and gave them a Chinese appearance. They may, in fact, be
considered Chinese subjects; but, unfortunately for them, Eussia
compels them to pay a tax also. The chief of my little band of
Kalmucks was named Tchuck-a-boi, and was a very strong and
powerful fellow, with a beautiful manly countenance, a fine mas
sive forehead, and large black eyes. He was dressed in a horseskin
cloak, fastened round his waist with a broad red scarf. When
the weather was warm his arms were drawn from the sleeves,
which were then tucked into his girdle, and the cloak hung round
him in beautiful folds. This gave full effect to his herculean
figure, while his manly bearing and graceful movements made
him a fine study. He was born to be a chief, and his perfect
good nature rendered him a most agreeable companion. He was
my faithful fellow-traveller through many a day of toil and hard
ship, and suffered hunger and thirst without a murmur.
We commenced our wanderings beyond the River Narym, and
crossed the Kourt Choum Mountains toward what has been called
the Great Altai. But this chain can only be found on our raaps ;
in nature it does not exist. Numerous offShoots from the Altai
run down to the desert of Oulan-Koum, in which direction we
turned our steps, riding over many a rugged ridge and crossing
numbers of picturesque valleys, threading our way eastward to
ward Oubsa-Noor. I had two objects in this journey — to visit
the Tangnou Mountains, which I had seen from the Bielouka, and
the large lake that receives so many streams and has no outlets.
There are many peaks in the Tangnou chain rising far above the
line of eternal snow, some more than eleven thousand feet in

AN EXTENSIVE VIEW. 349
height. Our route was eastward, crossing the heads of several
streams which run from the Tangnou Mountains into the Oubsa.
The names of these rivers I could not ascertain, as none of my
people had ever been in this region before, nor did we meet a
single native to inform us. Game we found in great abundance
in the higher region, and many a stag was broiled at our camp-
fires and served up at our meals. In a few situations we observed
the bare poles of the conical yourts of the Kalkas, indicating
their hunting stations. After riding twelve days, and encamping
beside various torrents that run from the Tangnou chain, we came
upon a large and rapid stream, flowing from the northeast.
This could not be crossed at the point we struck upon it, and
we were compelled to ascend toward its source. By following this
river I was led up into the mountain wilds of the Tangnou, and
at a great elevation we crossed the ridge and reached a plateau
descending toward the north, on whioh I found the opposite scene
" Zabata-Nor," a mountain tarn of great depth, surrounded by
ragged precipices of granite. At this plaoe the plateau has sunk,
leaving perpendicular precipices around. To the east the rooks
have the appearance of a wall five hundred feet deep, while
picturesque granite mountains and snowy peaks rise up in the
distance. Having with some difficulty ascended one of the summits which
pushed its head into the region of snow, I had a beautiful and
most extensive view. Immediately beneath lay the Oubsa-Noor;
for to the southwest was seen Oulan-Koum Desert and the Aral-
Noor ; to the south lay Tchagan Tala, and the ridges descending
down to the Gobi ; and to the southeast we looked upon the
crests of the Khangai Mountains — several peaks covered with
snow. This was a peep far into Central Asia, and over a region
never beheld by any European. A dim and misty outline of
Bogda Oola was seen rising above the Gobi, and the vast desert
stretched away till lost in haze.
Descending from this lofty peak, we sought a place to ford the
torrent, and happily found one near a beautiful waterfall. Large
biocks of fine white marble were lying in this torrent, and farther
up the stream were very high precipices of this valuable material,
untouched by man. Much of this country is extremely rugged
and wild, and I sketched many beautiful scenes in the Tangnou
chain It is only in the deep valleys and ravines that trees are

°'*^ LAKE KEOUGOUN.
found; in most parts the mountains are even destitute of shrubs
on their southern faces, but on many of the slopes there is a thick
carpet of short grass, interspersed with a great variety of flowers.
Three kinds of iris were blooming — a deep purple and white, a
rich brown madder and white, and a very fine yellow. Lar^e
beds of pink primula were growing ; a deep red and a pale yellow
dianthus were scattered over the mountain sides, giving out a
very delicious scent.
We continued our journey nearly due east, and in eleven days
more crossed the head-waters of the River Tess. Following the
mountain chain farther south brought us toward the sources of
the Selenga and Djabakan, where it was expected we should find
the Kalkas. The Kalmucks had often met some of these tribes
on the Tchoui Steppe, and they now expected that we should be
treated with hospitality ; if not, our arms would at least command
respect. During this ramble our camp-fires had burned on the
banks of many a picturesque mountain stream, which had several
times supplied us with fish speared by the Kalmuck knives.
Hook and line fishing was too slow a process with these people;
iastead, three or four men went into pools, driving the fish up tha
stream, while the other Kalmucks speared them from the bank ;
and they were seldom more than half an hour in producing a fine
dinner of fish.
After passing the River Tess we rode along the foot of the
mountains, sometimes over a sandy plain, whioh often compelled
us to ascend higher to obtain grass for our horses and secure game
for ourselves.
In one of these rambles after a dinner I came upon the small
and picturesque lake of Ikeougoun, which lies in the mountains
to the north of San-ghin-dalai, and is held in great veneration by
the Kalkas. They have erected a small wooden temple on the
shore, and here they oome to sacrifice, offering up milk, butter, and
the fat of the animals, which they burn on the little altars. The
large rock in the lake is with them a sacred stone, on which some
rude figures are traced; and on the bank opposite they place rods
with small silk flags having inscriptions printed on them. Some
of the snowy peaks of the Tangnou Blountains are seen from this
spot. In eight days we reached San-ghin-dalai, a beautiful lake
abont fifteen versts in length, varying from four to six in breadth.
Here we encamped for two days to rest our horses aud afford

KALKAS DWELLINGS. 351
me time to sketch the scenery. We were now near the source of
the Selenga, and had not yet meet with a Kalkas. Having accom
plished my object in visiting this lake, we left it on a very rainy
morning, and turned to the westward, intending to reach the River
Tess about midway between its source and Oubsa-Noor. The
Kalmucks began to fear we should find no people ; at all events,
we should cross a caravan track on our route, and might fall in
with some of the tribes.
We had several days of drenching rain, which rendered our jour
ney disagreeable and the country extremely uninteresting. The
Tangnou Mountains were obscured by a dense fog, and our lodg
ings were on the wet ground, our saddle-cloths forming both beds
and shelter. In the small ravines were found a few bushes, whioh
enabled us to make fire for our cooking and tea-kettle ; notwith
standing our hardships, not a man of my little band murmured at
his lot. Late in the afternoon of the sixth day after leaving San-
ghin-dalai we descended into a small valley covered with rich
grass, which our horses appeared to look upon with delight. Blany
camels were feeding near us, and we could see several yourts in
the distance — a most welcome sight to all. Aoross the valley we
could also discern a herd of horses feeding on the grassy slopes
beyond the yourts, and a large flock of sheep not far from them.
We turned our horses and rode toward the Kalkas dwellings, and
as we approaohed we saw two men mount and ride toward us.
This indicated a peaceful mission, and presently we met. There
was much conversation between them and Tchuok-a-boi, after
which one of them gallopped back to his friends, the other remained
and followed with us. It was not long before we perceived three
other Kalkas riding to meet and escort us to the aoul. On reach
ing the yourts, an elderly man took hold of the reins of my
bridle, gave his hand to aid me in dismounting, and then led the
way into his dwelling, in which were two women and four chil
dren. This was Arabdan, the ohief of the aoul, who received me, and
was now preparing to be hospitable by handing me a bowl of tea
taken out of a large iron kettle. It was brick-tea mixed with
milk, butter, salt, and flour, whioh gave it the appearanoe of thick
soup, but was not bad. The Cossacks and Kalmucks were also
supplied with this beverage. While drinking mine I had time to
examine my host. He was a tall, thin man, somewhere between
fifty and sixty years of age, of a dark complexion, with high cheek

352

THE CHIEF S FAMILY.

bones and small black eyes, a prominent nose, and a scanty beard.
He was dressed in a long dark blue silk kalat, buttoned across hia
chest, with a leather girdle round his waist fastened with a silver
buckle, in which hung his knife, flint, and steel. His cap was
helmet-shaped, made of black silk, trimmed with black velvet, and
had two broad red ribbons hanging down his back. A pair of
high-heeled madder-colored boots completed his costume. One
woman had a red and green silk kalat, the other a black velvet
robe, and both were tied round the waist with broad red sashes.
They also had similar caps ; their hair was braided, and hung over
their shoulders in a hundred small plaits, some of them ornament
ed with coral beads, which are highly valued by the Mongolian
beauties. They wore very short, high-heeled boots of red leather,
which prevent their walking with ease and comfort. The children
were not overloaded with clothing, but to compensate for this de
ficiency they had been rolling on the bank of a muddy pool, that
had covered them with reddish ochre, which contrasted well with
their locks of jet-black hair.
The yourts of these people were constructed like those of the
Kirghis and oovered with felt, but the internal arrangements were
different. Opposite the doorway a small low table is placed, on
which stand the copper idols and several sraall metal vases. In
some were grains of millet ; in others, butter, milk, and koumis.
On the left side of the altar-table stood the boxes containing the
valuables, and near them the koumis bag and the other domestic
utensils. Opposite were several piles of voilock, on which the
family slept.
A sheep had been killed soon after our arrival, and was already
cooking in the iron caldron in another yourt. This seemed to be
the great attraction to every person in the aoul, and from where I
sat I could see them busy with their preparations for the feast.
The Cossacks were also engaged broiling a portion for me, and
taking care to have enough for breakfast. The supper was not
eaten in the chief's yourt, men, women, and children assembling in
the adjoining one to eat the fatted sheep. Tchuok-a^boi had ex
plained to our host that I intended crossing the plain to the River
Tess and asked him to give us fresh horses ; the old man con
sented, promising both men and beasts should be ready for us at
daylight to take us to an aoul not far out of our track. This would
be the only one we should find before we reached Oubsa-Noor, and
even there it was doubtful if any Kalkas would be met with.

CHINESE TROOPS. 353
A quiet night in the chief's yourt and a breakfast at dawn of
day prepared us for a long ride. The sun rose brightly behind
the Khangai Mountains, casting their long shadows over the lower
hills and down to the plain. Faithful to his promise, Arabdan had
four men and sixteen horses ready for our journey. How far dis
tant this was to be, none could tell ; but there appeared no doubt
that we should have a long ride. When taking leave of my host
I presented him with a strong hunting-knife made by Rodgers.
He was delighted, and gave strict injunctions to his men to con
duct me safely to the aoul of his friend. Our route was to the
northwest, over an undulating plain oovered with rough grass,
which affords good pasture for the cattle. As we rode along, the
Kalkas pointed out the track leading to the town of Ouliassotai,
to which they said we could ride in less than twenty-four hours.
At this place there were a large body of troops under a Chinese
commander. Under these circumstances, it was not considered
desirable to approach too near the town; indeed, our Kalkas
guides objected to it.
During the morning the Tangnou Mountains had been en
veloped in clouds; but as the sun rose the vapor rolled off,
affording me a fine view of the chain. Seen across the plain
from this distance, the numerous peaks form beautiful objects,
their white snowy caps starting out from the deep blue sky like
frosted silver. Five hours' riding brought us upon a stagnant
watercourse, with high reeds and bulrushes growing in its bed,
some two hundred paces broad, with a wide space of clear water
in the middle. The Kalkas seemed a little disconcerted, and,
after a consultation, turned to the westward along the bank. In
another hour we reaohed a spot where our guides proposed that
we should swim our horses over this stagnant water. The fire
arms, clothing, and my sketches were secured against wet, and
then the guide led the way, a Cossack and myself following. We
were instantly in deep water, when our horses struck out, snoit-
ing and swimming with us across, but the soft and filmy nature
of the opposite bank rendered it exceeding difficult to get out.
The others had remained standing on the bank till we were landed,
and then the guide sent them farther down the stream, where at
a short distance another place was found with a better bank to
land upon. Our saddles, clothing, and fire-arms were carried
over on the head of the Kalmucks and Kalkas, and kept quite
23

'^^^' A HERD OF ANTELOPES.
dry. After landing we very soon dressed and continued our
journey. We had not gone far when we saw a fine herd of antelopes
feeding not more than five hundred yards distant. Five of our
party rode toward the north, apparently going away from them;
but when at a proper distance they turned and spread themselves
out in a line, to head the animals toward a bend in the river; we
had also been gradually hemming them in. Our rifles were now
unslung, and we slowly closed up toward the herd, while they
retreated into the curve formed by the reeds. It became evident
that they would make a rush to pass us ; and in a few minutes
the males turned round, stood for a moment, and then rushed
toward a large opening between our lines. When sufficientiy near,
they received a volley from several rifles : two antelopes sprang
high into the air, and then lay quivering on the steppe, and the
report of the pieces frightened part of the herd back. A Cossaok,
Tchuek-a-boi, a Kalmuck, and myself, had fired; in a moment
we were on the ground, reloaded our rifles, were ready, and in
the saddle, moving up. Before we were within range the other
men had flred at the herd as they rushed past, when two fell and
another was wounded, which was. followed by a Kalmuck and a
Kalkas, and captured after a sharp ride. In this hunt we had
obtained five animals, but no one could say which had been the
Buccessful shots.
The Kalkas were in ecstasies, and gallopped from one group
to the other of Cossacks and Kalmucks who were dressing the
antelopes, the work of a very short time ; the flesh was then
placed on the pack-horses, wrapped up with the skins, and we
continued our ride. Our guides intimated that it was necessary
to push on, as it was still far to the aoid ; the horses were good
and the steppe smooth, which enabled us to gallop. We were
not long in reaching a sandy plain, in some parts oovered with a
coarse reddish gravel, rising into low ridges, crowned with rocks
toward the north. At length, in one of the slight depressions we
saw a salt lake, on whioh many swans and hundreds of water-fowl
were swimming ; beyond this a grassy steppe, but no signs of any
aoul. The horses kept up their speed, and made the pebbles fly
as they went over the ground ; this brought us to good pastures,
but without any indication that would guide us to the Kalkas.
We now came upon another herd of antelopes, but they were not

GENGHIS khan's TRACK. 355
disturbed ; there was no time to spend in hunting, as the sun was
sinking fast.
Having ridden a considerable distance farther, we ascended
one of the ridges, from which the Kalkas pointed out what they
supposed to be the aoul, very far away, on the shore of a small
lake. This seemed to give our horses fresh courage, and on we
went over hill and dale, for we were a two or three hours' ride
from our resting-place. We saw several small lakes, but no indi
cation of the River Tess, although we had been travelling toward
the northwest several days. The Tangnou Mountains appeared
much nearer, and from the shores of one of the small lakes I
sketched a beautiful view. While occupied with this, all our
party, except two Cossacks and Tchuck-a-boi, proceeded onward
to seek the aoid. The sun sunk below the mountains to the west,
and a glow of yellow light was beginning to spread over the sky.
Presently the color changed £o a deep orange, with crimson clouds
stretching along over the mountain tops, and light fleecy masses
scattered upon the silvery gray above. It was a lovely scene, and
one quite common in this region, where no painters are found to
contemplate these wonderful effects or admire their beauty. Hav
ing finished my sketch, I followed on the track of our companions,
my mind deeply absorbed studying the effect of the scene before
me. To the south, a few low and apparently sandy ridges extended
east and west; beyond these it was one vast unbounded plain,
where all the armies of Europe might be marshalled only to appear
as a speck on this interminable waste, the steppe over which
Genghis Khan had marched his savage hordes more than six
hundred years ago. They too, perhaps, like me, had watched
the sun sink below the mountains, thirsting to quench their
savage appetites for rapine and slaughter beyond them. Probably
the numerous barrows scattered so far over these wide plains
contain the relics of nations these men exterminated.
Nature has here mapped out the conqueror's track from his
birth-place on the Onon to the scenes of his terrible devastations
on his course toward Europe, and it was to me a matter of deep
regret that I had not the means of opening sorae of the large
barrows I found along this route. Night was drawing on apaoe,
and it was tirae for us to be at our encampment, but as yet we
could see nothing to tell us where we should rest after a thirteen
hours' ride. Not far before us there was a low stony ridge, and

3,56

A KALKAS CHIEF.

as we were ascending this three men appeared on its summit ;
they had come to guide us to our friends. While I had been
sketching and thinking of Genghis Khan, the Cossacks and
Kalkas gave up the idea of reaching the aoul, as nothing to indi
cate its whereabouts could be seen. They had found a nice little
stream of pure water, and plenty of good grass, with bushes for a
fire. We reaohed them in about half an hour, when I found all
parties busy with their evening meal ; mine waa soon laid out on
the grass, and hunger gave a fine relish to the venison and tea.
Almost before we had finished eating, day was gone, and night
covered all around us. In a few minutes I was asleep.
We left our carap in the morning and continued our ride in
search of the Kalkas, travelling over a barren plain almost with
out grass ; in some places it was deep sand, in others sand and
gravel, which rendered it rather trying for our horses. At length
we reached some low hills, where we found grass and good pas
tures extended over valleys. Hour after hour passed away, riding
over the same monotonous country till about two o'clock, when,
to our great joy, we saw camels and horses feeding in a valley not
far away. We now pushed on, and shortly oame in sight of the
aoul. Presently two men met us, and conducted us toward the
chief's dwelling, greeting us civilly; and one rode on eaoh side
of me, leading the way to the yourts, whioh we found on the
bank of a small stream running into a lake at a short distance.
We rode up to a large one belonging to the chief, who was wait
ing my arrival. He laid hold of the bridle of my horse, gave
me his hand to disraount, and then showed me into his yourt. A
carpet was spread on which I sat down, when a bowl of tea-soup
was presented to me, to refuse whioh would havo been exoeed-
in,2;ly impolite. I was in the aoul of a celebrated Kalkas, Darma
Tsyren. The chief sat down in front of me, and the two young raon
who had conducted me sat near him ; they were his sons. Beyond
theso sat ten or twelve other Kalkas, watching ray movements
with intense interest. I was undoubtedly the first European they
had ever .seen. My large felt hat, shooting jacket, and long booLs
will be remerabered for years to oome; not that I think they
admired the costurae; theirs is far raore picturesque. Presently
a number of women came iuto the yourt, and at thoir head the
wife of the chief. She sat down near him, and was joined by

KALKAS FEAST. 357
her daughter; the others got places where they could; but the
gaze of all was upon me. No doubt it would have been highly
amusing could I have understood their remarks, as they kept up
an incessant talking.
At this moment a Cossack brought my somervar into the yourt,
and these people were much astonished to see the steam puffing
out, with no fire under it. One man placed his hand on the top.
and got his fingers burnt, to the great amusement of his friends.
My dinner of broiled venison was brought in on a bright tin plate :
this and the knife and fork excited their curiosity, such articles
being quite new to them. They watched me eat my dinner, and
nothing could induce them to move till the plates were taken
away. Darma Tsyren had ordered a sheep to be killed, whioh
had now been some time in the caldron. When the announce
ment was made that it was ready, I was left to myself; the whole
aoul, men, women, and children, were shortly enjoying the feast.
It was my turn to be a looker-on, but I will not disgust my read
ers by a description.
After this meal was over I ordered Tchuck-a-boi into the yourt,
and desired him to ask our host to give me horses for our journey
next morning. He gave them willingly, saying all should be
ready at daylight. He was told that I wished to go to the River
Tess, and was asked how long we should be riding to it. In
reply, he said it was a day's journey, and that it would be much
better to leave our horses at his aoul, and go to the Tess with a
small party of his people. To this I at once agreed, as our ani
mals would be thoroughly rested for their long joumey; and I
ordered that two Cossacks, Tchuck-a-boi, and a Kalmuck should
go with me, and the others remain at the aoul in charge of the
beasts. Darma Tsyren gave me four Kalkas and twelve horses
and at daybreak we were in our saddles and away,

358 THE TANGNOU MOUNTAINS.
CHAPTER XXV.
PLAINS OP MONGOLIA.
From Darma's aoul our route was nearly due north, over grassy
undulations, which gradually rose into hills, with broad sweeping
valleys, ranning east and west. This was a beautiful country for
a gallop, and the Kalkas seemed inclined to try the niettie of
their steeds in a chase after the antelopes, for we observed many
large herds of these at a distance, but never within range of our
rifles. About midday, while we began to ascend a high ridge,
the view over the Oulan-Koum Desert spread to the westward as
far as the eye could reach; many small lakes were also seen glit
tering in the sun. At one time I fancied I could perceive the
Ilka Aral-Nor shining in the distant haze; but, on ascending
higher, it proved to be a gleam of light stretching across the hori
zon. As we neared the top we had a charming prospect, extend
ing throughout the country we had crossed, and the mountain
chains to the southeast. The blue and purple haze now spread
over them, declaring that we had left them far away in the dis
tance. After gazing at this part of the landscape for a short
time, I turned my horse and rode to the summit ; then the Oubsa-
Noor lay before me, with the River Tess winding in the valley
beneath. The Tangnou Blountains were seen in all their grandeur,
while the vast steppes stretched away to the west, till plain and
sky seemed united in a misty tint. I hastened to sketch this
scene, so peculiar with its lakes, mountains, and undulating plains.
These latter have a character unlike all European scenery, and
must have presented a grand spectacle when the vast host of that
barbarian conqueror, Genghis Khan, were marching over them.
They were now solitude, possessing neither man nor his dwelling.
The ridge on which I was standing was a deep red granite, iu
some places rugged and broken into singular masses. Thick
veins of rose quartz crossed these rooks, ranning iu parallel lines
for two miles; some pieces of the quartz were semitransparent
and of a beautiful rose color. Several of the veins were from
nine to twelve inches thick, and many not more than three inches
wide. Having flnished my sketch, we continued our ride aloug

THE RIVER TESS.

359

the crest of the mountain for about an hour, and then descended
into a narrow valley, following this down toward the River Tess.
In about two hours we reached the river, at a part where it is a

CAVERN ON THB RIVER TESS.

broad and rapid stream, running between high rooks, with trees
and bushes growing from the clefts. We turned to the westward,
and followed the river toward the lake. I made several highly
interesting sketches during our ride to-day, one of them looking
from a cavern of large dimensions, and at a little before dark
encamped in a small grassy valley not far from the river A

360

OUBSA LAKE. — SANDY STEPPE.

Cossack, Tchuck-a-boi, and a Kalmuck having been sent on a
hunting expedition, joined us soon after dark, bringing a flne
deer shot by the Kalmuck. It was not long before our fire was
surrounded by small sticks broiling venison, and when I lay down
to sleep the cooking was still going on.
The Tangnou Mountains were enveloped in a dense fog this
morning, while on the Oubsa Lake and on the steppes the sun
shone brilliantly. We started early toward the lake, and a ride
of little more than an hour brought me to its banks, a few versts
to the southward of the mouth of the River Tess, which at this
point are flat and uninteresting ; to the north they seemed more
abrapt, but of no great elevation. The lake is more than one
hundred versts in length from east to west, and thirty to thirty-
five in width, with numerous bays running into the desert on the
south. After making two sketches I continued my ride along the
shore till we came to a river running into the lake from the south.
This was a deep and sluggish stream, whioh it would have been
very difficult to cross on account of the high sandy banks. From
this place we turned southeast to make for the aoul of Darma
Tsyren, keeping considerably to the west of our track. About
two hours after noon we arrived on the banks of a sraall lake, the
water of which was so exceedingly bitter that the horses w uld
not touch it. We could see that a small stream entered the lake
from the south ; to this we made our way, and ascertained that
it was drinkable. As no one could tell if wo should find water
in the direction we were going, it was decided that we should
dine here and give the horses a rest. To cook a dinner was with
us a short work ; indeed, I have known the men make venison-
soup in half an hour. They cut the meat into small pieces, and
the moment it boils eat it. A little salt is thrown in ; vegetables
we had none.
We remained about an hour and a half, then continued our
journey, and shortly reached a sandy steppe, almost destitute of
vegetation, which appeared to extend over a considerable tract of
country. Our Kalkas proposed a sharp ride, that we might cross
this banen plain before nightfall; and as no one was inclined to
delay our progress, on we went at good speed, hoping to find
water and pasture before night. We continued our trot, sometimes
aoross sandy valleys, and then among low hills. More than two
hours had passed away, and we were still riding over this arid

AN ALARM. 361
ground. The Kalkas, thinking we were going too far to the
south, proposed that we should turn in a more easterly direction ;
and soon we got into a more undulating country, with tufts of
coarse grass, whioh gave us hopes of finding pasturage. The sun
was sinking fast, and lengthening our shadows over the steppe,
when on the summit of a hill we observed a small lake in the
next valley, with green herbage round its shores, and two small
streams ranning into it; this was a gratifying sight; even the
animals appeared to snuff the grass afar off, and went on quicker.
A little before dark we reached the lake, and found rich grass for
our horses. The water was fresh, a few bushes were soon got for
a fire, and we soon made ourselves comfortable.' While riding
along the grass several double snipes were flushed; I therefore
lost no time in getting my double-barrel and ammunition, and in
less than an hour returned with snipes and ducks sufficient to form
a supper for half a dozen people.
I gave the latter to the Cossacks ; the birds and the venison
were in a short time stewing, and sending up a savory smell equal
to any from Soyer's kitchen. It was a beautiful night, the sky
covered with brilliant stars, and not a sound heard save the crack
ling of our fire. The horses had been so seoured that they could
not stray far away; all hands were lying down, some even asleep,
when suddenly we heard howling at a distance. The Kalmucks
and Kalkas sat up in an instant : it was a pack of wolves follow
ing our track, and a distant howl every now and then told us that
they were approaching. The men started up, collected the horses,
and secured them on a spot between us and the lake. We had
five rifles and my double-barrel gun, whioh I loaded with ball, at
the service of these rapacious scoundrels, should they venture to
come within reach, which the Kalkas thought certain, as they
commit great ravages among their cattle frequently. Our fire
was nearly out ; but it was thought better that we should receive
, the robbers in the dark, or let them come quite near before a
light was shown, when we should be able to see them, and, at a
signa], pour in a volley. Again we heard them nearer, evidently
in full scent of their game, and all lay ready on the ground
watching their approach. It was not long before we could hear
their feet beat on the ground as they gallopped toward us. In a
veiy few minutes the troop came up and gave a savage howl. The
men now placed some dry bushes on the fire and blew it up into

362

ATTACK OF WOLVES.

IS

a bright flame, which sent its red glare far beyond us, disclosing
their ears and tails erect, and their eyes flashing fire. At this
instant I gave a signal, and our volley was poured in with deadly
effect. The horrible howling which they set up declared that
mischief had been done. We did not move to collect our game ;
that might be found in the morning. Our pieces were reloaded
as quickly as possible, as the Kalkas warned us that the wolves
would retum. We oould hear them snarling, and some of the
wounded howling, but too far away for us to risk a shot. The fire
was let down, and we remained perfectly quiet.
We were not long left in ignorance as to their intentions.
Shortly there was a great commotion among the horses, when we
discovered that the pack had divided, and were stealing up to our
animals on eaoh side, between us and the water. The Kalkas
and Kalmucks rushed up to our steeds, uttering loud shouts, and
this drove the wolves back. It was now necessary to guard our
horses on three sides, as we could hear the savage brutes quite
near, and the men anticipated that they would make a rush, cause
the animals to break loose, and then hunt them down. If this
happened we should be left without horses in the morning, as
those that were not killed would be scattered far over the steppe.
A Cossack and a Kalmuck turned to .guard the approaohes on
each side, and I remained watching the front. The fli-e was now
lighted and kept in a constant blaze by the Kalkas adding small
bushes, and this enabled us to, see as well as hear our enemies.
Presently I discerned their glaring eyeballs moving to and fro
nearer and nearer, then I could distinguish their grizzly forms
pushing eaoh other on. At this moraent the rifies cracked to my
right, and the fire sent up a bright light, whioh enabled me to
make sure of one fellow as he turned his side toward me. I sent
the second ball into the paok, and more than one must have been
wounded, by the howling which arose in that direction. The
other men had fired, I did not doubt but with equal effect, for I
was certain they would not throw a shot away. In a few rainutes
the growling ceased, and all was still exeepting the snorting of
some of the horses. Both Kalkas and Kalmucks assured mo
that the wolves would make another attack, and said that no one
must sleep on his post.
To increase our difficulty, we had few bushes left, and none
could be obtained near us ; therefore it must now be by a most

WOLVES REPELLED BY FIRE-ARMS. 363
Vigilant watch that we could save our horses. The night became
very dark, and nothing could be seen at a short distance excepting
toward the lake, where any dark object could be observed against
the dim light on the water. Sharp and keen eyes were peering
out in every direction, but no wolf was seen or sound heard. The
Kalkas said the wolves were waiting till all were still, when they
could make a dash at the horses. We had been watching for a
long time without the slightest movement, when two of the horses
became uneasy, tugging at the thongs and snorting. The clouds
rolled off, the stars shone forth, and reflected more light on the
lake. Presently howling was heard in the distance, and Tchuck-
a-boi declared that another pack of wolves was coming. When
they approached nearer, those who had been so quietly keeping
guard over us again began to growl, and let us know that they
were not far away. As it was now deemed absolutely necessary
to procure some bushes, four of my men crept quietly along the
shore of the lake, two of them armed, and in about ten minutes
returned, each having an armful of fuel. The embers were
kindled, and material placed on them to be blown into a flame the
moment it was wanted. The sound that we had heard in the
distance had ceased for some time, when suddenly there was a
great commotion ; the other wolves had come up, and the snarling
and growling became furious. How much I wished for a light to
watch the battle which appeared likely to ensue ! Por a time
there appeared to be individual combats, but no general engage
ments, and then all became calm as before. Again we waited,
looking out for more than half an hour, when the horses began
pulling and plunging violently; still we could see nothing. The
man now blew the embers, and in a few minutes the bushes burst
up into a blaze, when 1 saw a group of eight or ten wolves within
flfteen paces, with others beyond. In a moment I gave them the
contents of both barrels ; at the same instant the other men fired,
when the paok set up a frightful howl and scampered off.
Our ffie was kept burning for some time, but we were not dis
turbed again during the night. At daylight we examined the
ground, and found eight wolves dead. Others had been wounded,
as we ascertained by traces left on the sand ; and our men carried
off the skins of the slain as trophies of the engagement. The
Kalkas informed me that these brutes destroy many of their
horses and cattle ; that they are numerous to the westward, and
would give us much trouble on our journey in that direction.

364

VARIETIES OP SERPENTS.

We started on toward the aoul, still to the westward of our
former track, and were riding over a most uninteresting country.
A heavy, sandy steppe delayed us much ; but, after a three hours'
ride, we were once more on a grassy turf, going at a good speed.
It was not till late in the evening that we saw camels and horses
wending their way toward home. After this we soon reached the
aoul, and Darma Tsyren gave me a kind welcome; but when he
heard of the attack of the wolves, and saw the skins, he was de
lighted. This circumstance afforded the tribe a subject for con
versation long after our departure, nor will they soon forget me.
I ordered two of the skins to be brought in, and presented them
to the chief, to his infinite gratification.
I passed a good night with my host, and soon after day dawned
mounted and continued my journey over a grassy undulating
steppe for six or seven hours, without seeing one living thing ex
cepting our own party. The men desired that we should stop at
the first fresh water, which we saw was not far distant — a small
stream ranning across the steppe ; to the south of us I observed
several lakes, some of them considerable dimensions, but I be
lieve them all to be salt. Having reached the stream of fresh
water, our horses plunged in and drank their fill. Here we dined,
rested our animals, and then rode forward. A short distance be
yond we entered upon a barren waste, stretching away for many
versts. While riding along I collected numerous beautiful speci
mens of agate and chalcedony, and also a few pieoes of sardonyx.
Travelling south brought us to some low ridges of dark purple rook,
spotted with red, extremely hard, and capable of receiving a very
high polish. Crossing these gave us much trouble, as the rooks
were sharp and pointed ; indeed, it was exceedingly difficult for ,
the horses to walk over them.
These stony ridges swarmed with serpents : they were lying
coiled up, but we were quickly made aware of their presence by
seeing their heads rear up and hearing them hiss as we passed.
Some moved off, others were not inclined to make way, and many
were killed with the heavy thongs of our whips. Any man who
should be compelled to take up his quarters for the night on these
ridges would soon have some unpleasant bedfellows. I observed
four varieties of these reptiles : a black one, three feet eight inches
long, and about one inch and an eighth in diameter : this fellow
was very active. Another was of slaty-gray color, from two to

A SERPENT KILLED. 365
three feet long, and smaller in diameter than the black snake.
This breed was numerous, and often difficult to see, they so nearly
reserabled the color of some of the rocks. We had been obliged
to dismount and walk, fearing to lame the horses ; often I have
nearly trodden on one without seeing it. My long shooting-boots
were a complete protection to my legs, and I had seen too many '
of these reptiles to fear them ; nevertheless, I have a great dislike
to their company. We also found some of an ashy-green, and
black, with deep crimson specks on the side : as they moved along
in the sun the colors were most brilliant. None of these which
we saw exceeded three feet in length, but we did not kill one of
them. A Cossack, Tchuck-a-boi, two Kalkas, and myself had walked
on ahead, leaving the others to bring on the horses. I was occu
pied examining the rocks and trying to obtain some greenish-
yellow crystals, with the assistance of the Cossack and Kalmuck.
But all our efforts were fruitless; the face and edge of my geo
logical hammers turned like lead when struck with force against
these rocks. While thus engaged we suddenly heard a shout,
and looking round, I observed the two Kalkas run a short dis
tance, then stop and look at some object. In an instant we were
up and ran to them ; the cause of their alarm was pointed out,
about ten yards in front of us, in the shape of a large serpent
coiled upon a rock, with his bead elevated about eight inches, his
eyes red like fire, and hissing furiously. They knew that his bite
was exceedingly dangerous, and were afraid to approach too near to
him. My rifle was unslung in a minute ; I then lay down, get
ting a rest on a rock. Suddenly he lowered his head into his coil,
peering over one of his folds; Tchuck-a-boi advanced two or three
paces, when up it went again, hissing forth his defiance. I now
got his head fair on the bead of the rifie, touched the trigger, and
the leaden messenger performed its duty. His body sprang out
of its coil, but headless, and wreathing in many folds. The men
were upon him with their whips; but notwithstanding their heavy
blows, it was at least ten minutes before the reptile lay still. He
was then stretched out, and measured five feet two inches and a
half without his head, and four inches and a quarter round his
body. His color was a dark brown, with greenish and red marks
on his sides, and 'his aspect indicated, if I may so express it, deadly
poison. We were obliged to continue our walk for a couple of

366

A COUNCIL.

versts farther, passing many of the slaty-gray reptiles, and two or
three black ones, but the other two species we did not meet again.
After orossing this stony tract we came upon a sandy plain ex
tending to a considerable distance.
The day was far advanced, which rendered a quick ride over
this dreary steppe absolutely necessary. There was neither grass
nor water to be seen in any direction, but they must be found, if
possible, before night set in. Our route was in a southwesterly
direction, and our pace a gallop. After riding a little more than
two hours we got among tufts of steppe grass, associated with a
thorny bush bearing yellow and deep purple flowers similar in
form and size to the hedge-rose. We continued to push on, nor
was it long before we began to descend toward a valley running
to the westward, where a bright silvery band indicated the liquid
we sought. Its presence was generally recognised, the horses
pricking up their ears and extending their necks as we rode down
into the grassy valley. We turaed toward the nearest point,
where we observed bushes growing on the bank of the stream,
and in less than an hour were looking into the crystal flood with
feelings of intense gratification. Both men and animals rushed
to the water to quench their scorching thirst. The river was
about twenty yards wide and about four feet deep, running slug
gishly toward the west; but whether it found its way to the
Djabakan or to the Kara-Noor the Kalkas could not tell, nor did
they know its name.
A council was held by our whole band touching the probability
of a visit from the wolves. The Kalkas thought they would scent
our track and find us before many hours had passed ; it was
therefore agreed that the horses should feed until dusk, and then
be secured on an open space between our encampment and the
river; that three men should keep watch, changing every two
hours, and a large fire be maintained through the night. Sufficient
fuel for this purpose was collected, and all our other preparations
made for defence ; after this we supped, and many of us were
soon sound asleep. Two watches passed undisturbed, but the
third had not been long on their post when a Cossaok shook my
arm and told me the wolves were coming. In a few minutes we
were up and ready to repel an attack should the brutes advance.
A bright fire shed a strong light for fifty yards around us ; beyond
this was thick darkness, which the eye could not penetrate.

A VISIT FROM THE WOLVES. 367
The horses were still ; not a sound could be heard ; and this
continued for ten or fifteen minutes, when the noise of a distant
howl was wafted over the plain ; there they were, sure enough.
It was so long before we heard it again, the men thought that the
wolves had fallen in with a herd of deer, on whioh they were feast
ing. The watch was changed, the fire made up, and we lay down
to sleep. A little before daylight we were again roused, when
we heard the wolves quite near, but could not see one. A most
¦vigilant look-out was kept up, but not one came within the range
of our vision until day dawned, when a group of eight or ten were
seen sitting and standing about four hundred yards distant from
us. The Kalkas thought that they had not received a good share
of the venison caught by the pack in the night. Two horses
were unfastened and led over the plain, under cover of which we
hoped to get within range of the depredators ; but scarcely had
we reached to within three hundred yards of them when they
beat a retreat, going off at a slow pace. Three bullets were sent
after them, which accelerated their speed, but did them no
damage. The horses were turned out to feed ; then two Cossacks, with
Tchuck-a-boi and myself, set off in quest of game. Our larder
was very low, and, unless something was procured, we should
have an insufficient dinner. We departed in pairs in different
directions, and, after a walk of two hours, met again at the
encampment, the whole produce of our rifles being two ducks, a
swan, and a pelican. Large game we had seen none, the wolves
having driven them off. On our arrival all hands wer^ ready to
depart, and in a few minutes we were pursuing our journoy along
the bank of the river. After riding about an hour the Kalkas
discovered an object by which they knew the direction of the
Kara-Noor. We left the river, riding more toward the north
west, and soon reached some higher ground, which gave us a view
far over the country. The river we had just left, after running
in a westerly direction for two or three versts, turned almost
directly south. We could trace its course for a long distance,
until it appeared lost in a bed of reeds extending over an immense
tract, in whioh were seen small spaces of open water. About
three o'clock in the afternoon we first caught sight of the Kara-
Noor and the river which runs into it, and in an hour were on its
northern shore. The lake is not large, nor is there anything

^^8 SEPARATION OF THE PARTIES.
picturesque about it. We found good pasture for our horses, and
observed hundreds of water-fowl swimming on the lake. We
continued our journey toward the Kirghis, represented by the
Kalkas to be a set of desperate banditti, worse than wolves, and
constantly plundering; but I did not believe all the ill reported
of them.
The east end of the lake and the river were sunounded by a
thick bed of reeds, extending far into the steppe. As wild boars
are usually to be found in such places, a Cossack, Tchuck-a-boi,
and myself mounted fresh horses and sallied forth in quest of this
game. In many places the reeds rose far above our heads, and
often the horses were up to the saddle-fiaps in water. Still we
rode on in the hope of finding game, and saw indications of the
ground having recently been turned up in many places in search
of roots. Notwithstanding, however, all these traces, we were
obliged to return after a long ride without having seen a single
animal. One duck was cooked for my evening meal ; the other,
with the swan and the pelican, were made into soup, and eaten
with great relish by my companions. Subsequently the same
precautions were taken to protect our horses against any attack
of wolves, but night passed and morning broke without our being
once disturbed.
A thick fog was hanging over the lake and river, which gra
dually began to rise, betokening a hot day. Good-bye was said,
when the two little parties separated, the Kalkas returning to
their aoul, the rest proceeding in search of the River Djabakan.
I always felt a regret on parting with men who had shared the
toil and danger of a journey. These'men had stood bravely to
their horses when the wolves made their grand attack upon us,
and now we parted never to meet again. No one of our party
had any knowledge of the country through whioh we were about
to ride. I only knew that by following a southwesterly direction
we should strike upon the Djabakan, but whether in one or two
days I could not tell. Soon after leaving the Kara-Noor we
entered upon an arid plain, extending far into the Oulan-Koum
desert : it was a dreary waste, without either vegetation or water.
Our larder again was nearly empty, and we could not expect to
find game in such a region.
After riding several hours the country became rocky, with lofty
ridges and narrow valleys quite destitute of vegetation. In one

OATEBN ON THB LAKE OULVNJOnB, MONGOLIA.

A MIRAGE. 371
of these I found a small lake surrounded by high precipices ; this
was Oulunjour, with its caverns, described to me by the Kalkas.
They say that Shaitan has his dwelling here ; if so, he has shown
good taste in selecting a most romantic spot; indeed, the view
from one of the caverns is particularly wild and beautiful. This
cavern is formed out of a corapact yellow limestone, and extends
into the rooks about two hundred feet ; it is about sixty feet wide,
and eighty feet high, and makes a magnificent natural chamber.
Leaving the lake and ascending the opposite height, I got a view
over the plain to the south, on to which we descended through a
ravine. Having travelled several hours, some low hills appeared many
versts distant; we were, however, delighted to find a large lake
stretching out far beyond them. As we approached nearer, trees
and rooks appeared standing on its shores, casting their reflections
on its surface, and giving me hopes of finding beautiful scenery.
We had ridden more than an hour, but appeared no nearer the
lake ; in fact, the water receded. I now saw that a mirage had
caused this delusion ; for, after riding a couple of hours more, it
vanished, changing the appearance of a beautiful lake into a
barren waste. At length, after riding many weary versts, we saw
a small lake, with a little stream falling into it. Here we found
a coarse grassy turf growing on the banks of the little river and
around the lake. Long before the sun went down we reached the
water, which proved to be good and sweet, and this decided us to
remain the night. Noticing at no great distance several fiocks
of large birds feeding on the plain, a Cossack and myself started
in pursuit, accompanied by two Kalmucks leading horses, by
whioh means we hoped to get within rifle-distance of the game.
The Kalmucks gradually approached the birds by going round in
a circle, and we were all well sheltered by the horses. At length
the men stopped, the Cossack and myself lay flat on the ground,
and, having obtained a good sight, two of the flock were presently
stretched dead on the plain. As the others did not fly far, our
pieces were reloaded, and we again approached the birds with
equal success ; but this time the flock went far away. We now
gathered up our game, and ascertained them to be four flno
bustards. No cooks were ever more active in their occupation
than our party were in preparing these birds for the pot, and
wnen stewed they were delicious. Our usual precauticos against

372

CROSSING THE DJABAKAN.

wolves were again repeated; and as our safety depended on th"
horses, they were guarded with the utmost care. Again the nigh
passed over in peace and quiet.
Four of us were off before day dawned in search of game, ac
companied by two Kalmucks to lead the horses; this time we
were more successful, for two deer and eight bustards were added
to our larder. Breakfast was speedily despatched, and we started
again on our journey. At a few versts frora our uight's encamp
ment we got upon some sandy hills that afforded a view far over
the steppe. To the northwest I observed a large lake far away in
the Oulan-Koum desert, but nothing could be seen to the south to
indicate where we should find the Djabakan. Our route was still
over a sandy steppe, with tufts of long grass reaching up to our
saddles, which, the seeds being ripe, assumed at a distance the
appearance of one immense corn-field just ready for the reapers.
It was long past midday when we left these high tufts of trouble
some grass, the seeds of which stuck fast to our clothing, and to
the manes and tails of the horses, besides impeding our progress
materially. We then got upon a plain covered with coarse gravel,
among which short grass and numerous flowers were growing. A
large herd of antelopes were feeding to the east of our track, but
too far away for us to make any attempt to get near them. We
now rode on at a sharp trot, fearing that we might not reach the
river or find water before dark. In a little more than an hour we
arrived at the edge of a broad valley, and saw the Djabakan wind
ing its course at a few versts distant ; a little later brought us to
the river, which at this point is a deep stream, running slowly,
and about two hundred yards broad. Three of us started in
search of game, and returned after a long walk without firing a
shot ; but good grass for our horses was found in great abundance,
and they fed well ; at dark they were secured near us, and every
precaution taken to keep off the wolves, for we were now in the
region, according to the Kalkas, where we should find these brutes
both savage and nuraerous. Another night passed without one
being either heard or seen. We had a fine sunny morning, whioh
made it pleasant to swim the river ; Tchuck-a-boi crossed over
first, and found the opposite bank good for landing upon. He
then returned, seoured my clothing on his shoulders, and mounted
a fresh horse, when four of us rode into the water, swam over,
and landed without difficulty. Three others followed, bringing

DESERT. — SALSOLA. 373
my sketches and arms fastened on their heads and shoulders. The
men made several trips, and all our things were carried dry and
safely over the river, which has its source far to the east in the
Kourou Mountains, near the sources of the Selenga, and brings a
large body of water to the Ilka Aral-Nor.
All our people being safely landed, we prepared for our ride
over a very dreary-looking plain toward the region of the Great
Altai, as laid down on our maps. We were now on a heavy sandy
steppe — part of the Sarkha Dessert, which extends into the Gobi
— and vegetation was so very scant that even the steppe grass had
disappeared. The salsola was growing in a broad belt around the
small salt lakes, its color varying from orange to the deepest crim
son. These lakes have a most singular appearanoe when seen at
a distance. The sparkling of the crystallized salt, which often
reflected the deep crimson around, gave them the appearance of
diamonds and rubies set in a gorgeous framework. I rode round
several times, admiring their beauty, and regretting that it was
impossible to stay and visit a large lake whioh I observed ten
or fifteen versts distant, surrounded with green, orange, and crim
son. I directed our course nearly due west, still riding over sand
and gravel, and again I found many agates lying on the surface.
The summits of the Tangnou Mountains were just visible to the
north, but no high chain could be seen to the south. About an
hour before sunset we reaohed the bank of a small river ranning
from the south toward the Djabakan. Here we had fresh water
and pasture for our horses, and determined to remain for the
night. We had not seen either animal or bird during the whole of this
day's ride ; from this I conclude that the steppe we crossed is un
inhabitable, and never visited either by Kirghis or Kalkas. Un
der these circumstances, to seek game was useless, there being no
cover or food either for bird or deer ; indeed, it was with diffi
culty we found sufficient fuel to cook our evening repast. We
thought neither wolves nor Kirghis would visit us here, nor did
we make any preparation, believing the arid nature of the spot a
sufficient protection. Our night passed without any attack, and
morning roused us all to action. The horses had been feeding
from the moment the gray dawn appeared, and were now ready for
a march. After riding about ten versts we saw clumps of reeds,
and shortly afterward had a view of the lake through an opening

374

FURIOUS GALE.

between these plants. On reaehiog the shore I found a thick belt
of reeds, bulrushes, and other aquatic plants extending apparently
round the lake, and growing far above our heads as we sat on
horseback; even when standing on my saddle I could not see the
water. Turning to the south, we continued our journey along
the shore, hoping to find an opening through which I might obtain
a -view on to the lake, but rode for more than three hours without
obtaining even a peep at the water. This brought us to the
southem end of the lake, where I found a sandy shore, extending
about half a verst, without a reed growing upon it. The sand
was blown into round heaps, some of them fifteen and twenty
feet high, and were of all sizes, extending far into the desert.
Looking from one of the larger mounds, they had so singular an
appearanoe one might have supposed that they formed a vast
primitive necropolis, with its hundreds of tumuli. I obtained a^
view looking over the lake to the north ; far in the distance I
could see three small islands rising but a little above the water.
The northern end of the lake was invisible, as the shore is very
flat ; a part of the western side, with its broad band of bulrushes,
was visible till it diminished to a line, and was lost in the dis
tance. While sketching this scene I perceived that a storm was sweep
ing over the water, coming from the north directly toward us.
The Cossacks and Tchuck-a-boi removed the horses under the
shelter of the high reeds, while two of the men remained with me.
The gale came on at a furious pace, lashing up the waves and
bending down the plants as it passed. A long white streak was
seen rushing over the lake, and when at about half a verst distant
we could hear the roaring of the blast. The men urging me to be
off, I took ray sketch-book folio and other matters, and ran to join
my companions in their shelter, and had scarcely reached the edge
of the reeds when the storm passed, crushing the bulrushes and
olher plants flat to the ground. As the blast went on it licked
up the sand, whirling it round in numerous eddies, and raised it
high into the air as it passed along among the sandy mounds : it
was now ea.sy to understand how they had been formed. The
storm was of short duration, for in a quarter of an hour it had
passed, and all was calm again. We remained a short time longer,
and while I made a second sketch, the Cossacks and Tohuok-a-hoi
searched for a wild boar, but without success. It was irapossible

PHEASANT SHOOTING. 375
for US to encamp on the shores of the Ilka Aral-Nor, for there Was
no grass for our horses, and the water was bitter. I determined
that our course should be southwest, hoping to fall in with water
and grass as we approached nearer the hills. We, however, con
tinued our ride for many versts before we observed any change in
the arid nature of the steppe. At length rough grass began to
appear, and this gave us hopes. More than another hour elapsed,
and no water could be seen in any direction. Horses and mon
were all suffering from thirst, and as night was drawing on fast,
we urged on our steeds at a rapid pace. A small ridge rose
before us, which we ascended, and in a broad sweeping hollow pn
the opposite side we descried a stream, glittering as it ran along
among tall reeds and bushes. This was a glorious sight; our
horses pricked their ears, snorted with delight, and dashed off
down into the valley at a gallop. In a little more than half an
hour we leaped from our saddles, wben both man and beast rushed
to the bank and cooled their parched tongues in the crystal stream.
Hitherto our whole thoughts had been upon the water; we now
turned to look for pasture for our steeds, and discovered that there
was plenty of grass extending along both banks of the little river.
Bushes and willows for firewood were in abundance, but we had
little in our larder to cook. This, however, was a place in which
we ought to find game, and Tchuck-a-boi and myself started in
one direction, and two Cossacks in another, while our companions
were preparing our encampment. We had not gone a hundred
paces when up sprang a fine cock pheasant ; I sent a ball after
hira, which cut off two feathers from his tail : these, however,
would make but a poor supper. 1 sent the man back for my
double-barrel and game-bag while I reloaded my rifle, as we might
find other game not so gentle as a deer; indeed, I had noticed a
little in advance that the ground had been turaed up, indicating
the neighborhood of the wild boars. Tchuck-a-boi was soon back ;
I gave him my rifie, and on we marched. We had not gone thirty
paces when a pheasant rose up : this time he dropped about fifty
paces from us, and before he was picked -up a second bird was
added to our bag. At no great distance we came upon my first
acquaintance; he did not escape this time. Tchuck-a-boi knew
him by the rifle-mark on his tail. We proceeded about half a
verst without meeting with anything, when we came upon some
thick grass and bushes. Suddenly we heard a loud grunt and a

376

WILD BOAR HUNTING.

rushing among the branches; about twenty paces from us a young
sucking boar ran out of the grass. Tchuck-a-boi dropped down
on his knee and gave a shrill whistie ; the suckling stopped for a
minute and looked round; this was fatal to him, for he fell with-
out a scream. Trae to his craft, Tchuok-a-boi had shot him close
to the eye. We had fallen in with a sow and her litter; but, not
wishing to disturb them farther this evening, as we intended they
should have our early attention next day, I turned toward our
encampment through some small bushes, adding on my way two
more pheasants to our bag.
When we reached our lodging in the bushes the Cossacks had
not riturned, but shots had been heard in their direction, which I
felt sure would produce something, as these men seldom throw a
shot away. Just at dark they came back, bringing in a young
wild boar and a deer, with the intelligence that other deer and a
large wild boar had been seen. The latter animal must be hunt
ed on horseback ; he is too swift to deal with on foot ; so we de
termined to hunt him in the morning. The Kalmucks considered
that there was no fear of wolves visiting us here, and that our
horses were quite safe ; their fore legs, however, were seoured, to
prevent them straying far away. I had a delicious supper of
pheasant and tea; the Cossacks and Kalmucks preferred the
young boar ; and when I lay down to sleep, broiling was still
going on.
Night had passed, and the rosy tints of morn foretold a glorious
sunrise and a flne day. On looking around I observed a general
cleaning of rifles. I, too followed the example, and made pre
parations for the chase. Our breakfast was soon over, and all
other arrangements having been made, it was decided that four
men should remain at the encampment, two armed with rifles, in
case any of the Kirghis should find them, while six of us, armed
with rifles, and one Kalmuck, with my double-barrel gun, should
rouse up the boars. The sun had been above the horizon about an
hour, when we rode down the valley in the direction where the
Cossacks had seen the boar. We had passed the point they reaohed
the night before without observing bird or animal. Before us was
a thick copse of low bushes and long grass ; into this we rode,
and very soon roused more than one from his lair. We could see
their route by the motion in the grass, and followed, after riding
some distance, when a small open space gave us a full view of our

SPLENDID CHASE. 377
game. Two large dark grizzly boars were about two hundred
yards ahead of us. We followed them fast, and after riding about
a verst got clear of the long grass, with only a few bushes here
and there. For a few minutes we lost all traces of the animals;
suddenly one of the Kalmucks spied them running along behind
some bushes a short distance in advance. Our rifles were now
unslung, and our horses put to their speed. We gained upon
them fast, and when within about fifty yards a Cossack and my
self alighted from our horses, fired, and wounded one of the boars.
While we reloaded our companions gallopped on, and presently
other shots were fired ; we were soon remounted, and off again in
pursuit. The boars had separated ; one -was leaving the river,
and making across the valley, followed by two men, one of whom
fired. We were now gaining on the animal, and had him in the
open country : it was a splendid ohase. As we came near I could
see the foam on his mouth andhis large tusks gnashing with rage;
he was however dangerous to approach. Presently the Cossack
gave him another ball, whieh took effect, but did not stop him.
Giving my horse a touch with the whip, I was soon abreast of
the animal, and about twenty paces from him. He was slacken
ing his speed, which enabled me to pull up my horse and get a
shot I intended for his head, but failed and the ball took effect in
his shoulder, stopping hira for a moment. Slipping the strap of
my rifle over my head, I then drew a pistol from my holster and
gallopped over to the left side.
Having practised and become somewhat proficient in pistol
shooting at full gallop, I rode my horse alongside of the boar,
within seven or eight paces. After my horse had made a few
strides I fired the second barrel, when the boar staggered for a
moment and fell. The Cossaok and a Kalmuck oame up imme
diately ; we sprung from our horses, and saw that my last ball
had entered just above his eye. He was a huge fellow ; the Cos-
saek said he weighed nine poods — about 324 lbs, His tusks were
long, and as sharp as a knife, and two most formidable weapons
they would have proved had he come to close quarters with either
man or horse. A Kalmuck was sent to our encampment for a
man, an axe, and horses to carry in our prize, while the Cossack
and the other man began to dress him.
As this was an operation at all times disagreeable to me, I left
, — first reloading my arms — to seek the other men. After riding

378 LARGE BOAR.
about half an hour, I heard shots fired, and observed my friends
in full chase on the opposite side of the river, at least three versts
distant from me. I hurried on, hoping to join in the chase; but,
before I reached the stream, the hunt was ended, and a Cossack
met me coming in search of our party. I now learned that they ¦¦
had killed a large boar, but not the- one they had at first hunted.
He had escaped, and all trace of him was lost. Suddenly, while
searching near some bushes and reeds, a large boar rushed into
the middle of them and charged at the Cossack's horse. When
within three or four paces of his intended victim a ball from
Tchuok-a-boi's rifle stopped him for a moment, and horse and man
escaped. So sudden had been his onset, that he got away before
a second shot was fired; but very soon therewere men on his
track who were seldom foiled. The boar had led them a long
chase, and had received several balls, but none of them stopped
him. At length he rushed into the water and swam across the
stream, where it extended into a broad and deep pool. The men
crossed a little higher up, and were soon in full chase, when a
ball from one of the Kalmucks wounded him severely. This
made him furious, and he charged at the man who had just fired ;
the Kalmuck's horse bounded off, and a ball from Tchuok-a-boi
laid the boar dead in the midst of the party. This was the larger
boar of the two, and the most ferocious. We returned to the
camp in triumph, having slain two large boars in less than three
hours. As it was near the middle of the forenoon, we decided on
giving our horses a few hours' rest, to dine, and then continue
our journey. The river fiowing from the south, I decided that
we should follow it upward and encamp ou its bank before we
attempted to cross the chain of hills which we could see in the
distance. Early in the afternoon we commenced our journey,
riding along at about two hundred yards from the river. Ooca-
sionally some of the men rode into the long grass and bushes to
seek for game, when a brood of pheasants were met with, and
several added to our stock. The valley had now become nanower,
¦with low hills rising on each side, and being desirous of obtaining
a view over the country, I rode up one of them, accompanied by
a Cossack and Tehuok-a-boi. From the summit we had a very
extensive view over Sarkha Desert, and I satisfied myself that
there was no Great Altai : a low chain of hills only extends to

CARAVAN. — PRECAUTIONS, 379
the south, till lost in the Gobi Desert. While taking a survey
of the country, I saw at a long distance to the east of us a smoke :
this could not be from the Kirghis ; they are more to the west,
and I oould scarcely believe that there were any Kalkas in this
direction ; but as there were two or three fires, there must be
people of some kind. We continued our ride along the crest of
the hills for several versts, watching from time to time the wreaths
of smoke. At length we came upon a well-beaten track, the
caravan-road which crosses the Gobi. This accounted for the
smoke ; a caravan was halting for the night. From the summit
of the ridge we had a view of the Ilka Aral-Nor as it lay shining
in the setting sun ; also another large lake was seen near the
sraoke of the caravan. We rode down into the valley and joined
our companions, intending to encamp at the first desirable spot ;
and it was not long before one of the Cossacks who had ridden
on in front pointed out a most convenient place for us to rest
upon. It was quite necessary to keep a sharp look-out, as we were
coming nearer to the Kirghis, who have a very bad character in
this region. As yet we had seen no indication of their being in
the vicinity, but both the Cossacks and the Kalmucks thought
they might have seen the smoke of our fires. The horses were
turned out to feed until dark ; they were then picketed near us,
and two men placed on guard, to be changed every two hours.
This was a most important precaution, and one in which every
man of our little band was deeply interested, for we were quite
sure, if once our horses were lost, that our capture would become

Night, however, passed without any alarm, and a clear morning
indicated a warm day. After examining my map, I still deter
mined to continue our journey a day or two more in a southerly
direction, then to turn to the westward and strike upon the River
Ourunjour; by doing this I should enter the Gobi to the north
of the great chain, " Thian-chan" on our maps, a name utterly
unknown to the natives, who call this chain " Syan-shan;" which
I shall adopt whenever speaking of these mountains. They are
the highest in Central Asia, and among them rises that stupen
dous mass " Bogda Obla," the volcanoes Pe-shan and Ho-theou,
to see which I was pushing my way into this dreary region. I
had fully considered the risk before starting, and had determined

380

STERILE COUNTRY.

that neither toil, nor hardship, nor the fear of banditti should
deter me from drawing scenes no European eye had ever beheld,
and from obtaining geographical information the value of whioh
would, I trust, be acknowledged by future travellers.

CHAPTER XXVI.
CHINESE TARTARY.

I LEFT our encampment, still following the littie stream for
more than an hour, till it turned westward into the hills. Here
we left its luxuriant and hospitable banks, whioh had supplied
our larder so abundantly and fed our jaded horses. From this
point our route continued over several small ridges, some of them
destitute of vegetation, with dark green rocks cropping out to
the ea.stward, and descending in huge steps to the plain. As we
travelled I saw several sraall lakes to the east, but whether salt
or fresh it is impossible to say. The country assumed a more
sterile appearance the farther we got to the south ; it was only in
the small valleys that there was any pasturage, and this was short
and scanty. We oame upon several little rills of pure water,
whioh was encouraging, as we should be able to encamp, and find
both food and water for our animals. Hour after hour had passed
away with the same monotonous hill and valley to ride over.
Sometimes we had a view to the eastward over the Sarkha Desert,
with its yellow sand, purple ridges, and numerous mounds scat
tered upon the steppe. At one point we could trace the River
Djabakan by its dark green vegetation, as it was winding its .
course along the plain. These views we should shortly turn our
backs upon, and cross the crest of the ridge, which would afford
us a view on to the Gobi — that vast waste extending from Kessil-
bach Noor (about 87° E. long.) to the Siotki Mountains (120°
E. long.), more than two thousand miles in length, and varying
from three hundred to seven hundred miles in width. Having
reached the highest summit of the hills, I dismounted to examine
the scene before me.
To the east stretches the Gobi, with its numberless ridges

TUE TARTAR EXODUS. 381
vanishing off into distance till lost in soft blue vapor. I now
turned to the south, and saw the snowy summits of the Syan-
shan, with Bogda Obla rising far above all others. The sight of
these white peaks excited a desire to gallop aoross the plain, and
sketch the stupendous masses from the steppe. I stood some
time trying to find out which of the peaks was Pe-shan, but it was
impossible to decide unless the volcano had belched forth flame
and smoke.
Subsequentiy we came upon the steppe over which the Asiatic
hordes marched on their expedition to the west. Had De Quincey
seen this spot, he need not have drawn so largely on his imagina
tion for scenery like that through whioh he marches the Tartar
hosts on their way to China. Nor was it necessary that he should
make geographical blunders by placing the Lake Tenghiz close
to the great wall, nor locate the emperor's hunting-box on the
northern border of the empire, among the penal settlements of
China. I have travelled over much of the country this distin
guished author professes to describe in the " Exodus of the Tar
tars," and have lived among their descendants. I have read his
story with intense interest and admiration, and consider the final
scene, where Tartar and savage Bashkir rush together into the
lake, fearfully tragic. I regret, however, to say that no Chinese
guns belched forth flame or shot to check these savages of the
Oural, nor did Kien Long look down on the scene of savage
butchery. The Cossack disturbed my musing on the Tartar exodus by
pointing out a smoke very far to the west, which we knew was
not from our people. Kirghis were undoubtedly there, and now
we must keep a sharp look-out, as they were encamped to the
west of our route, and would soon see the smoke of our fires.
We mounted our horses and rode downward, following the track
of our friends, whom, in less than an hour, we discovered in a
small grassy valley, with a little stream of pure water leaping and
foaming in its rocky bed. All was prepared for our sleeping, and
a most vigilant watch was directed to be kept up throughout the
night, as we might receive a visit from sorae of those roving bands
who are constantiy moving about the steppes. Just at dusk our
horses were brought and secured close to us, and the first watoh
appointed : eaoh man had his arms placed near at hand, in case
of a surprise in the night. Every one knew that our safety

382 A BED OF LAVA.
depended on ourselves ; that we should find no one to aid us here
if taken unawares ; that our fate would then be sealed, and that
we should all be sold into captivity. These were strong induce
ments to bravery and vigilance, and all determined never to be
taken alive. Our evening meal being ended, we were soon
stretched on our saddle-cloths, and several sleeping soundly.
For a time I was occupied in settling whioh should be our route;
this done, I, like the rest, fell asleep.
Just as the day dawned I awoke, and saw a faint light rising
in the east, which gradually increased, till the sun's rays were
seen tipping the hills around us. The route was still to the south,
among hills rising somewhat higher than many we passed yester
day. After riding about three hours, a singular dome-shaped hill
was seen at some distance to the southeast, which reminded me
of Kolmack-Tologuy. To pass this would not take us far out of
our course, and I was very desirous of seeing what It was. As
we approached the plaoe I observed that the country was crossed
by several ravines, and rode along the edge of one that led directly
toward the great dome which had excited my curiosity. Haviug
ridden about three versts, I perceived that the bottora of the
ravine was covered with a dark substance of a peculiar oharaoter,
whioh I immediately recognised.
Leaving our horses with the men, myself and three others
scrambled down the rocky sides, when 1 found the dark mass was
a bed of lava, which had flowed down the ravine. It was broken,
rugged, and very difficult to walk ove^, and as we went along I
ascertained that it had come from tbi; dome-shaped mass before
me. On reaching the spot I assured myself that the substance
had gushed from several places on the side of the mount, and
had ran a short distance down the ravine. It was only a small
quantity that had been ejected on this side. I now determined
to ascend the dome and examine its summit. We found con
siderable difficulty in climbing the perpendicular face of the
ravine, to reach what I shall term the springing of the dome.
The whole mass was of a dark purple-gray color, with the appear
ance of having been forced up, in a soft or almost liquid state,
into the shape of an enormous air-bubble. It was split and frac
tured in every direction, but not in regular strata. After exam
ining the rock minutely, I concluded that the whole external
covering was basaltic. I found olivine in small greenish crystals

VOLCANOES. — KIRGHIS. ^83
in two or three specimens ; in some it appeared to pervade tho
whole mass, but only in small particles. That this was the com
mencement of a volcano is quite certain, but the melted matter
had found an outlet at some other place. There was not a blade
of grass growing on this dome, to the summit of which a Cossack
end myself scrambled with great toil and difficulty.
I now observed that it was not a regular circle, but elliptical in
form, the long diameter being about five hundred yards, and the
other about four hundred yards. I spent several hours examining
this singular place, and in sketching two views, which are highly
interesting. While standing on the summit of the dome I observed
another similar formation at a distance of twenty or twenty-five
versts to the southeast ; therefore, passing round the east side of
the great dome, we turned our steps in that direction, riding over
many small hills and gradually descending toward the plain. A
sharp look-out had been kept to the westward in the direction of
the Kirghis, and shortly after noon an aoul was seen among some
low hills eight or ten versts distant. After a consultation, we
deemed it best to proceed to it, and see how its inhabitants would
treat strangers. In a short time we were riding through a large
herd of horses and camels, when the Kirghis herdsmen came up,
and asked whence we had come and whither we were going. They
were told that we had come from the Oubsa-Noor, and that we
were going to the Oulunjour. We now learned that the aoul
was a very large one, and belonged to Sultan Baspasihan J also
that we should find him with his tribe. Every Kirghis that we
passed had his battle-axe hanging on his saddle, but whether this
was adopted as a security against man or animals, we could not
tell. After going on a few versts, a Kirghis came gallopping up
to point out the position of the aoul, then left us and rode fast
toward it, as if the sight of our arms had caused him to hasten to
afford the sultan an opportunity of giving us a warm reception.
A short ride farther brought us to the top of a ridge, beyond
which we looked down upon the aoul, lying on the bank of a
small stream in the valley. About a verst distant from the yourts
lay a lake, probably four or five versts long and one and a half in
breadth. On one side was a thick bed of reeds, and on the other
a grassy shore, on which sheep and goats were scattered about in
great numbers. We now observed several men spring on their
horses and ride to meet us : this was certainly a mission of peace.

^^^ SULTAN BASPASIHAN.
When we met, one of the men rode up to me, placed his hand on
my chest, saying "Aman" I followed his exaraple, and we rode
on. As we approached there seeraed to be a great commotion in
the aoul; two Kirghis had mounted their horses and gone off at
full gallop. Others were busy collecting bushes, and all seemed
occupied. Our escort guided us to a large yourt with a long
spear stuck into the ground at the door, and a long tuft of black
horsehair was hanging from beneath its glittering head. A fine
tall man met us at the door. He caught the reins of my bridle,
gave me his hand to enable me to dismount, and led me into the
yourt. This was Sultan Baspasihan, who welcomed me into his dwell
ing. He was a strong, ruddy-faced man, dressed in a black velvet
kalat edged with sable, and wore a deep crimson shawl round his
waist; on his head was a red cloth conical cap, trimmed with
foxskin, with an owl's feather hanging from the top, showing his
descent from Genghis Khan. A Bokharian carpet had been
spread, on which he seated me, and then sat down opposite. I
invited him to a seat beside me, whioh evidently gave satisfaction.
In a few minutes two boys entered, bringing in tea and fruit.
They were dressed in striped silk kalats, with foxskin caps on
their heads, and green shawls round their waists. They were his
two sons. The sultana was out on a visit to the aoul of another
sultan, two days' journey distant.
The yourt was a large one, with silk curtains hanging on one
side, covering the sleeping-place — bed it was not. Near to this
stood a "bearooote" (a large black eagle) and a falcon chained to
their perches ; and I perceived that every person entering the
yourt kept at a respectful distance from the feathered monarch.
On the opposite side were three kids and two lambs, secured in a
small pen. There was a pile of boxes and Bokharian carpets
behind me, and the large koumis sack carefully secured with
voilock. Between us and the door sat eight or ten Kirghis
watching my proceedings with great interest. Outside the door
were a group of women, with their small black eyes intently ^
fixed on the stranger. A conversation was carried on between the
sultan, a Cossack, and Tchuck-a-boi; and by the scrutinizing
glances of the sultan I soon perceived that I was the subject.
My shooting-jacket, long boots, and felt hat were matters of inter
est, but my belt and pistols formed the great attraction. Tho

SHOOTING AT A MARK. 385
sultan wished to examine them. Having first removed the caps,
I handed one to him ; he turned it round in every direction, and
looked down the barrels. This did not satisfy him. He wished
to see them fired, and wanted to place a kid for the target, proba
bly thinking that so short a weapon would produce bo effect.
Declining his kid, I tore a leaf out of my sketch-book, made a
mark in the centre, and gave it to the Cossack. He understood
my intention, split the end of a stick, slipped in the edge of the
paper, went out, and stuck the stick in the ground some distance
from the yourt. The sultan rose, and all left the dwelling. I
followed him out, and went to the target. Knowing that we were
among a very lawless set, I determined they should see that even
these little implements were dangerous. Stepping out fifteen
paces, I turned round, cocked my pistol, fired, and made a hole
in the paper. The sultan and his people evidently thought this
a trick. He said something to his son, who instantly ran off into
the yourt and brought to his father a Chinese wooden bowl.
This was placed upside down on the stick by his own hand, and
when he had returned to a place near me, I sent a ball through
it. The holes were examined with great care ; indeed, one man
placed the bowl on his head, to see where the hole would be
marked on his forehead. This was sufficiently significant. The
people we were now among I knew to be greatly dreaded by all
the surrounding tribes : in short, they are robbers who set at
nought the authority of China, and carry on their depredations
with impunity.
On looking round, I noticed that a set of daring fellows had
been watching my movements; also that the fatted sheep had
been killed, and the repast would soon be given. Two'brawny
cooks were skimming the steaming caldron, and other preparations
were in progress, while numbers of men, women, and children
were seated around, waiting for the feast. As a Kirghis banquet
is for any European an extraordinary event, I shall endeavor to
describe one at which I was the guest of Sultan Baspasihan.
The party were far too numerous to be accommodated in \i\» yourt.
A Bokharian carpet was spread outside, on which he placed me,
taking his seat near. A small space in front of the sultan was
left clear, and around this the men seated themselves in circles —
the elder, or more distinguished members of the tribe, nearest his
person : there were more than fifty men, women, and children
25

386 A KIRGHIS DINNER.
assembled in front of their chief. The boys wt behind the men ; •
the women and girls occupied the last plaoe, excepting the dogs,
who were standing at a short distance, apparently quite as muoh
interested as the rest.
When all were seated, two men eame into the inner circle, eaoh
having a cast iron vessel shaped something like a coffee-pot. One
approached the sultan, the other myself, and poured warm watei
upon our hands ; but each person must provide his own towel.
This ceremony was performed for every man, from the sultan to
the herdsman. The women and the girls were left to do it for
themselves. The ablutions having been performed, the cooks
brought in the smoking vessels — long wooden trays, similar to
those used by butchers in London — piled up with heaps of boiled
mutton. One was placed between the sultan and myself, filled
¦with mutton and boiled rice. Eaoh man drew his knife from its
sheath, dispensing entirely ¦with plates. My host seized a fine
piece of mutton from the reeking mass, placed it in my hand, and
then began on his own account. This was the signal to fall to,
and many hands were soon dipped in the other trays. The Kir
ghis who sat nearest the trays selected the things he liked best,
and, after eating a part, handed it to the man sitting behind ; when
again diminished, this was passed to a third, then to the boys ;
and, having run the gauntlet of all these hands and mouths, the
bone reaches the women and girls, divested of nearly every parti
cle of food. Finally, when these poor creatures have gnawed till
nothing ig left on the bone, it is tossed to the dogs. While the
dinner was progressing, I observed three little naked urchins creep
ing up toward ourb^l from behind the sultan, whose attention
was directed to the 'circles in front. Their little eyes anxiously
watched his movements, and when sufficiently near, their hands
clutched a piece of mutton from tl^ tray. They then retreated in
fehe same stealthy manner behind a heap of voUocks, and devoured
the spoil. I saw this repeated two or three times, and was highly
amused by their cunning. Beyond the women, and surrounded
by a group of dogs, there was a child about four years old sitting
with a dry leg-bone of a sheep in its hand. This puzzled me at
first, till I saw bones thrown among them, when there was a gene
ral rash of the canine race. The child was not daunted by their
growls ; his bony weapon fell heavy on their noses, and he fre
quently canied off the spoil. In a remarkably short time the

RIFLE SHOOTING. 387
sheep had disappeared, when large bowls of the liquid in which it
had been boiled were handed round, and drunk with a great relish
by the Kirghis. The dinner being ended, two men brought the
water-vessels, and poured the warm liquid over our hands, after
whioh all rose up and went to their occupations.
The sultan expressed a wish to see our rifles used, and ordered
three of his men to bring out theirs. I gave them powder and
lead, and induced them to fire at a target placed at sixty paces
distant; each man fired two rounds, but not one ball touched it.
They then removed ten paces nearer, and one man hit it, to their
great joy. A Cossack and Tchuck-a-boi next fired, and sent both
balls near the centre. I now desired one of the Cossacks to place
the target at what he considered the best long range for their rifles.
He stepped off two hundred paces — about one hundred and eighty-
five yards. The sultan and his Kirghis looked at the distance
with utter amazement. When the first shot was fired, and the
hole pointed out not far from the centre, they were astonished.
The target was a piece of dark voilock, with a piece of white paper,
seven inches square, pinned on the middle. This I have always
found much better than a black centre. We all fired, and not a
ball missed the paper. When the sultan saw this, I fancied that
it made a strong impression on his mind ; the superiority of our
arms, and the way they were used, could scarcely be without its
effect. After this there was a general cleaning of arms, to have
them in perfect order.
We were now in Chinese Tartary, in the country of the ancient
Sungarians previous to their being conquered by the Chinese em
peror Kien Long, near the middle of the eighteenth century. It
was in this region that about four thcasand men of the tribe of
Prince Tsebeck Dordzi settled after the exodus of the Tartars from
the Volga. We should most probably make an acquaintance with
the descendants of these men before many days passed over.
The sulian retumed into the yourt with me, accompanied by a
Cossack and Tchuok-a-boi. I wished to ascertain if we should
find Kirghis farther to the southeast, taking care at the same time
not to hint that there could be any difficulty to retard our travel
ling in that direction, as I had learned that the Asiatics instantly
take advantage of any doubt, and turn it to their own account : I
have surmounted not a few of their impossibilities. In answer to
my questions, Baspasihan said there were two chiefs in the coun-

388 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.
try beyond his pastures, Oui-jass and Koubaldos ; and at eight
days' journey from his aoul we should find his friend, Sultan
Sabeck, a very good man. He informed me that Oui-jass would
treat us well, but he said that Koubaldos was a great robber. I
desired to know if there were Kirghis about Kessil-bach-Noor.
The sultan informed me that there were many aouls on the River
Ourunjour, that Kessil-bach-Noor was six days' journey distant,
and that the people were all robbers.
I desired the Cossack to inform Ba.spasihan of my intention to
visit his friend Sultan Sabeck, and that we should start in the
morning. He at once proposed to accompany me to another aoul
of his own, nearly a days' journey distant in the direction we must
travel. We were also to have a hunt with the bearooote, that I
might see their sport, as we should find plenty of game on our
way. The gunpowder and the lead which I had given to his men
had brought this about. He was also desirous of seeing a boar-
hunt, and witnessing the effects of our rifles on the bristly animal.
During the evening the sultan asked if I would permit two of his
Kirghis to go with me to Sultan Sabeck. He wished to send a
present of a flne young stallion to his friend, whioh he thought
would be perfectly safe under our escort. The accuracy and
range of our rifles had impressed upon him a very high notion
of the power we possessed to repel the attack of any plunderers,
and he thought it probable that we might meet with some of
them. Several skins were spread for me in the sultan's yourt,
on which I slept soundly, and forgot for a time both fatigue and
robbers. Soon after daybreak we were all up, and making preparations
for our departure. Horses were standing ready saddled, and
everything indicated a busy scene. I saw two Kirghis occupied
with the bearooote and the falcon. Having flnished our morning
meal, horses were brought for the sultan and myself. I was to be
mounted to-day on one of his best steeds — a fine dark gray, that
stood champing my English bit, which he did not appear to relish.
All my party were mounted on the sultan's horses ; ours had been
sent on to the aoul with a party of his people and three of my
Kalmucks. When mounted, I had time to examine the party.
The sultan and his two sons rode beautiful animals. The eldest
boy carried the falcon, which was to fly at the feathered game.
A well-mounted Kirghis held the bearcoote, chained to a perch.

THE BEARCOOTE. 389
which was secured into a socket on his saddle. The eagle had
shackles and a hood, and was perfectly quiet : he was under the
charge of two men. Near to the sultan were his three hunters,
or guards, with their rifles, and around us were a band of about
twenty Kirghis, in their bright-colored kalats : more than half
the number were armed with battle-axes. Taking us altogether,
we were a wild-looking group, whom most people would rather
behold at a distance than come in contact with.
We began our march, going nearly due east, the sultan's three
hunters leading the van, followed by his highness and myself;
his two sons and the eagle-bearers immediately behind us, with
two of my men in close attendance. A ride of about two hours
brought us to the bank of a stagnant river, fringed with reeds
and bushes, where the sultan expected that we should find game.
We had not ridden far when we discovered traces of the wild
boar, large plots having been recently plowed up. This gave us
hopes of sport. Our rifles were unslung, and we spread out our
party to beat the ground.
We had not gone far when several large deer rashed past a
jutting point of the reeds, and bounded over the plain about three
hundred yards from us. In an instant the bearcoote was un-
hooded and his shackles removed, when he sprung from his perch
and soared up into the air. I watched him ascend as he wheeled
round, and was under the impression that he had not seen the
animals; but in this I was mistaken. He had now risen to a
considerable height, and seeraed to poise himself for about a
minute. After this he gave two or three flaps with his wings,
and swooped off in a straight line toward his prey. I could not
perceive that his wings moved, but he went at a fearful speed.
There was a shout, and away went his keepers at full gallop, fol
lowed by many others. I gave my horse his head and a touch
of the whip ; in a few minutes he carried me to the front, and I
was riding neck-and-neck with one of the keepers. When we
were about two hundred yards off the bearcoote struck his prey.
The deer gave a bound forward and fell. The bearcoote had
strack one talon into his neck, the other into his back, and with
his beak was tearing out the animal's liver. The Kirghis sprung
from his horse, slipped the hood over the eagle's head and the
shackles upon his legs, and removed him from his prey without
difficulty. The keeper mounted his horse, his assistant placed

390 CHASE OF A WILD BOAR.
the bearcoote on his perch, and he was ready for another flight.
No dogs are taken out when hunting with the eagle ; they would
be destroyed to a certainty; indeed, the Kirghis assert that he
will attack and kill the wolf. Foxes are hunted in this way, and
many are killed ; the wild goat and the lesser kinds of deer are
also taken in considerable numbers. We had not gone far before
a considerable number of antelopes were seen feeding on the
plain. Again the bird soared up in circles as before, this time I
thought to a greater elevation, and again he made the fatal swoop
at his intended victim, and the animal was dead before we reaohed
him. The bearooote is unerring in his flight ; unless the animal
¦ can escape into holes in the rocks, as the fox does sometimes,
death is his certain doom.
We returned to the river, beating the cover in search of other
animals, and rode for a long time without success. At length we
roused up some game whioh kept, in the long grass and reeds.
Subsequently we got sight of the bristly back of a large boar ;
several shots were flred, but no ball went near him. After run
ning him about half an hour we carae upon open ground, when
we had the game in full view — two young boars and a very large
one; and as they all made for the open country, they afibrded us
a good chase.
The animals bounded along at a great speed about four hundred
yards ahead of us, but presently separated, the two young ones
turning to the left toward the cover on the river farther down ;
and as the old boar went forward on his course, our party divided,
some trying to head the young boars and force them out upon the
Bteppe, while several of the sultan's Kirghis, two Cossacks,
Tchuck-a-boi, and myself, followed the old boar, and were gaining
upon him fast. I observed that he was a much nobler foe, and
much more dangerous to approach than those we had shot before.
The horses seemed to enter into the spirit of the chase, and dashed
over the plain at a pace that was rapidly bringing us toward our
game. A Cossack and myself had been gradually drawing ahead
of the other hunters, and were now within flfty yards of the boar,
though too much behind him to get a good shot. We could see
his formidable tusks and the foam on his jaws as he gnashed
them together in his rage. A few minutes more brought us
abreast of him, and gradually closing nearer, when within about
twenty yards the Cossack fired, and I saw that the boar was

SPORT. 391
wounded. He turned his head toward us for a moment, and then
rashed on. I was now within fifteen paces of him, and going at
the same speed. Grasping the horse firmly with my knees, I
dropped the rein and fired ; I noticed with effect, as a red stream
gushed down his shoulder.
He turned suddenly and made a rush toward me, but my horse
was too active for him, and in two or three bounds carried me
past. A Kirghis, however, who was not far behind, was jaught,
and the chest of his steed torn open by one stroke of his fearful
tusks. The horse sprang forward a few strides and fell. At this
critical moment was heard the crack of two rifles, and the boar,
again wounded, turned away from his intended victim. After this
the Kirghis drew back, the Cossacks and Kalmuck remained to
reload their rifles, and I followed alone. Opening both my hol
sters, I determined to try the effect of my pistols on the boar's
tough hide, and keeping my horse well in hand, and ready for a
bound, I rode alongside within a few yards, when I got a good
shot, which stopped his progress. At this moment I heard the
report of a rifle close behind me, when the boar gave a spring and
fell dead. I turned round and saw a Cossack : his ball had inflicted
the fatal wound. The people came up, the Kirghis who had been
so unceremoniously dismounted riding behind one of his com
panions, his horse having been killed; he looked at the dead boar,
spat at him, and called him " Shaitan."
Far away on the horizon we could see our other friends still en
gaged on their hunt. Leaving part of the men to bring in the
animal, we returned slowly toward the river. When we reached
the hunters I found that they had killed one of the boars, and
that the other had escaped badly wounded, having, as we sup
posed, swum over the river. The sultan had remained with this
party, and was delighted with the sport. I was informed that it
would take us many hours to ride to the aoul where we were to have
our night's lodging ; also, that it was necessary to ride fast, or we
should not reach it before dark. Baspasihan put his horse into a
sharp trot, his hunters pushed on to their places in the van, and
our march was continued in the sarae order as we left the aoul in
the morning. Our route was in a southwesterly direction over a
vast plain, extending far as the eye could reach, on which I could
not discover any objects rising above the horizon, which greatly
disappointed me, as I expected to see the summits of the Syan-

392

GOOD APPETITES.

shan. We had ridden for several hours over this plain, which in
some parts was covered with rough grass, in others was a sandy
waste, when at last we saw a smoke, and shortiy afterward many
dark spots on the horizon : these were the yourts. After riding
another hour we came upon a large herd of horses and camels
returning to the aoul. Our horses were now put into a gallop,
and in a short time we were sitting in the sultan's yourt, when
koumis was handed round in large bowls. I acknowledged a
preference for tea, which was soon prepared ; but as the Kirghis
sat watching me drink it, I was convinced that they thought me
a complete barbarian, and pitied my want of taste. Presently
smoking platters of mutton were brought in, and, judging by the
quantity, speedily consumed. Indeed, my impression was that it
would be difficult to find hunters with better appetites. It was
just dark when this meal was ended, and in a short time all were
sleeping soundly.
Just as the day dawned I turned out to examine our position,
when I discovered the snowy peaks of the Syan-shan. They ap
peared cold and ghost-like against the deep blue sky ; presently
they were tipped with the sun's rays, and shone forth like rabies.
I sat on the ground watching the changes with much interest, till
the whole landscape was lighted up. Immediately near me was
a busy scene : on one side the men were milking the mares, to
the number of more than one hundred, and carrying the leathern
pales of milk to the koumis bag in the yourt, the young foals
being secured in two long lines to pegs driven into the ground.
In front and on the opposite side the women were milking cows,
sheep, and goats, and at a little distance beyond these the camels
were suckling their young. Around the aoul the steppe was
filled -with animal life. The sultan told me that there were more
than two thousand horses, half the number of cows and oxen,
two hundred and eighty camels, and more than six thousand
sheep and goats. The screams of the camels, the bellowing of
bulls, the neighing of horses, and the bleating of sheep and
goats, formed a pastoral choras such as I had never heard in
Europe. Baspasihan proposed sending three of his Kirghis — one pos
sessed some knowledge of the country — as far as the pastures of
the robber Koubaldos ; beyond that point he had never been ; the
other two were to attend upon the young stallion. My host also

BARREN SCENE. 393
desired that I would visit him on my return to Kessil-bach, as I
should then find him more to the west on my route. He farther
insisted on my riding during this journey his horse, a splendid
animal, of great power and speed. After giving instruction to
his Kirghis and the Cossacks, and cautioning them to keep a
strict watch when we were with Koubaldos and his tribe, we
parted and turned to the southeast, as our route lay in that direc
tion. It was expected that we should find one of the aouls of
Oui-jass late in the evening after a long ride. This anticipation
prevented any attempt at hunting ; indeed, the Kirghis urged us
on at a rapid pace. After riding over a grassy steppe for near
four hours, and crossing several dry watercourses, we came upon
a stony track on which there was scarcely any vegetation. The
aspect was exceedingly dreary in the distance, the prominent
feature being some dark rocky ridges, toward which we were
riding. Having gone about ten or twelve versts farther, we
reached a depression in the steppe, at the bottom of which lay a
lake, oval in form, and, as near as I could judge, eight to ten
versts in length. The country around was stony and barren ;
even the shores of the lake appeared black and sterile ; in short,
there was not a patch of green to vary the bark purple coloring
of the stony covering. It is into this deep hollow that the water
courses we had passed are emptied. The lake has no outlet ; in
the spring it must be muoh larger, when the snow-water from the
vast plains is poured into it. During the summer in this dry
region, the additional quantity of water is carried off by evapora
tion. I wished to ride down to the shore of this lake, but the Kirghis
objected, saying it was far to the nearest aoul. I was thus most
reluctantly compelled to abandon my project. Our horses were
urged on as quickly as the nature of the ground permitted, keep
ing along the southern edge of the valley. We had not gone very
far when we came to the bed of another river, which was at this
part cut into a ravine about fifty feet deep and three hundred feet
wide. A small stream was running among the rocks, which at
times must be a raging torrent. It was impossible to descend
the abrupt rock on horseback; we therefore turned toward the
lake and rode down into the valley. Here we crossed the bed of
the river without difficulty, and ascended to the steppe, along
whicb we could only ride slowly, as our path was over a layer of

394 KIRGHIS ENCAMPMENT.
small stones, none larger than an egg, but not rounded by the ac
tion of water. They were all sharp and angular pieoes ; in fact,
the country had been Macadamized, but by what process this sin
gular effect had been produced I can not tell. We were closely
approaching the rocky ridges — masses of stone thrown up to no
great elevation — some several versts in length, with small steppes
running in between. We soon reached one of these openings, and
found it covered with sand, with occasional tufts of rough grass.
Our horses were now pushed on at a rapid space, when we shortly
saw the steppe extending, till sky and plain mingled in blue and
purple haze.
Before quitting these ridges, a Cossack, a Kirghis, Tchuck-a-
boi, and myself rode to the summit of a high mound, hoping to
see the aoul of which we were in search. We found the sandy
plain extended a few versts farther, and then we could see grass
and pastures, but neither cattle nor yourts; nevertheless, the Kir
ghis thought they were not far away. After descending, we
pushed on again, gallopping over the plain, and presently were on
the grassy steppe. As we rode on, sharp eyes were looking out for
any traces whioh might lead us to our destination. The sun was
sinking fast, whioh made us all anxious ; and although we had
found grass, water had not been seen. Another hour passed, and
the shades of night were creeping over the plain, when we came
upon one of those singular depressions that have the appearance
of a mighty watercourse. This was about two versts broad, and
covered with grass. Near to the opposite side we could see a
small river reflecting the fading light, and on the banks yourts
and large herds of horses. The Kirghis declared that this was
the aoul of Oui-jass. While we stood looking at the delightful
scene before us, several horsemen came riding from the encamp
ment. We descended the steep bank and met them; and they
were delighted when Baspasihan's Kirghis rode up, declaring that
we were his master's friends, and not robbers. One of the Kir
ghis rode back at full gallop, and we followed slowly. We were
not long in reaching the aoul, when the fine old man took hold of
my bridle and led my horse to a yourt, which had been moved
bodily to a clean piece of turf, where the women were busy spread
ing voilock and carpets on the ground. Koumis was brought in
bowls ; but I preferred waiting for my tea, which the Cossacks
immediately prepared, adding some slices of broiled mutton for

"AMAN-BUL." — TARANTULAS. 395
my evening meal. Not far from the dwelling I saw a fire blazing
under a great caldron, and other preparations in progress for a
feast, to which, I have no doubt, all my party did ample justice.
When I turned out the next morning I found that most of my
people were still asleep ; but they were not long left so, for as
soon as the Kirghis observed me outside the yourt they roused
them. My host and his people had not been idle, for I noticed a
troop of fresh horses picketed near our own. The chief insisted
on giving us his own horses for our ride, and Kirghk to take
charge of ours to the encampment of Oui-jass. The old man said
it was far away, and that we should not reach it until the evening
of the second day ; that a Kirghis would guide us to a pasture and
water, where we could remain for the night. He declared that it
would be a long ride, and most of it over a sandy plain. He gave
us six Kirghis, one as our guide, and five to take oharge of our
hcttses and bring his own back : each carried his battle-axe. We
were now twenty-one in number, and a wild-looking band.
After saying "Aman-bul" (farewell) to Tursum — such was the
chief's name — the guide led the way in nearly a southeasterly
direction. In due time we reached the bank, forming one side
of the depression, and ascended to the steppe, which was covered
with coarse dry grass. Again I could see the sno^wy peaks of the
Syan-shan, and anticipated, by continuing our present course,
that we should in a day or two have the whole in view. The
guide put his horse into a trot, and away we went over the plain.
The track of dry grass was soon passed, when we entered upon a
sandy waste almost without vegetation. But this was not wholly
unproductive, for we presently reached a part which produced a
fine crop of tarantulas. The ground was quite oovered with their
webs and holes; and as we rode over it, many of these venomous
insects were killed by our horses. I was curious to see them in
their little dens, and dismounted to make a nearer acquaintance.
I quickly came upon a large web, indicating a manufacturer on a
great scale. I drew my long knife and touched it, when out he
rushed, fixed his fangs on the steel for a moment, and then re
treated into his hole. When the Kirghis observed me begin to
dig him out, they were afraid that I should be bitten, but I took
especial care to keep my fingers beyond his reach. I rolled him
out of the sand, and again he sprung at the blade, evidently much
enraged at being disturbed. His body was dark brown and black.

396

STERILE STEPPE.

and very ugly. Leaving him to seek or dig another dwelling, I
mounted my horse and left this venomous spot. The Kirghis
have a great dread of these littie reptiles, but the sheep eat them
with impunity and relish.
After this delay our guide urged us on, pointing to the misty
outline of some ridges as the place for our night's encampment.
The sun was shining down upon us with great force, but tempered
by a strong breeze from the west, which rendered our ride plea
sant. We had been many hours crossing this sandy plain, with
nothing to vary the scene. About two o'clock we came upon a
small stream, where our guide proposed that we should rest for an
hour, as there was plenty of pure water and a little grass for our
horses. The men were provided with smoked horse-flesh, whioh
they all ate with great relish. The Cossacks had brought me a
little broiled mutton, and this, with a few glasses of tea, made me
an excellent dinner. Our horses having been changed, we now
rode our own, and pushed on at a very rapid pace, fearing that
we should not reach our destination before dark. Several hours
had passed, and we were still on the sterile steppe. The ridges
had assumed a deeper tone, and I could perceive the natural
colors of the rooks shining through the misty vapor. This told
me we were approaching them fast; and just at dusk we saw a
golden line of light stretching across the plain, caused by reflec
tion of the gorgeous sky on a long narrow lake. We soon reached
the shore, and found, as the Kirghis had predicted, good pastur
age and fresh water, with bushes for a fire.
No sound or sign of animal life was seen or heard during the
night excepting from our horses, aud they fared sumptuously;
and while the ridges were still casting long shadows over the
plain, we sprung into our saddles and left our resting-place. Our
route was along the margin of the lake, to the westward, for a
distance of about ten versts; we then turned round the head of
the lake, and came upon a small river whioh flowed into it from
the west. Here we found several pheasants, some of which I
bagged; but of other game we saw no traces. I believe, however,
that we should have found both wild boars and deer, could we
have spared the time to beat the bushes and reeds on the opposite
side of the lake.
The guide continued a route toward the southeast, whioh I
knew was taking us away from the mountains, but this was ne-

SALT LAKES. 397
cessary to find the aoul of Oui-jass. A ride of little more than
an hour brought us to the ridges which had appeared so small as
we approaohed. On examination they proved to be red granite,
and some rose seven or eight hundred feet from the ground.
They were broken into very rugged and picturesque shapes, and
many had a singular appearance as they stood out on these vast
steppes, like ruined castles of colossal dimensions. No wonder
the tribes of Central Asia fear to pass many of these places, and
invest them with superstitious horrors. To-day we passed a ridge
more like the ruins of some vast city than a mountain ; there
were isolated pillars — huge masses like the broken shafts of co
lumns ; walls rising up to a great elevation, pierced with large
circular apertures, and enormous blocks heaped around, forming
a complete chaos. I proposed to stop and explore this wonderful
scene, but the Kirghis stood aghast; and when they saw me
sketch it, they looked as if they expected to see Shaitan and his
legions threaten us from the mighty walls.
Having passed the ridges, we came onoe more upon the steppe,
and discerned the outline of other hills in the southeast, toward
which the guide informed me we must look for Oui-jass. We
had now reached a part of the plain on which the salsola plant
was growing, and in the distance I could see salt lakes : I knew
them to be salt by the crimson margins which encircled them.
After a few hours' ride we passed near one, and observed all around
its shores a crystallization of salt, sometimes more than an inch
thick, and perfectly white, that sparkled in the sun like diamonds.
Presently our Kirghis guide descried a summit to the south of
our route ; by this he was able to direct our course, and he now
made it more easterly, assuring me that, by continuing in this di
rection, we should be certain to strike on the pastures of Oui-jass,
which he hoped to accomplish before nightfall. I felt satisfied
that without the aid ofthis man it would be exceedingly' difficult
for us to discover the aoul. We rode on, in full confidence that
we should find both pastures and water, even if we did not find
Kirghis, and in less than two hours came upon a part of the plain
crvered in many places with patches of grass, while in the distance
we could see that the country had lost its sterile appearance. Our
animals began to prick up their ears, an intimation that water was
not far off. It was not long before I observed dark objects dotted
over the plain, but at a considerable distance ; these were camels.

398 SULTAN OUI-JASS.
and we were proceeding directly toward them. Having gone
some distance, we could see men riding about hurriedly, and driv
ing the herd away : this was accounted for in a moment. Our
party had been seen approaching, and were considered banditti.
The guide ordered a halt, and sent one of his men forward.
The Kirghis saw him, and one of their party approached to meet
hira ; still, they continued to drive in the camels, as if not quite
satisfied of our intentions. At length the two Kirghis met, con
versed a few minutes, and then separated ; one gallopped off to his
friends, and the other waited for us. We rode sharply onward,
and shortly reaohed the camels which were now left to feed. In
telligence of our arrival would soon reach Oui-jass, as one man
would carry the news to another, gallopping at full speed. We
came up to the herdsmen, who pointed out the direction of the
aoul, and on we went at a sharp trot. A short distance brought
us among a herd of horses, having passed whioh we beheld a
group of Kirghis approaching. As both parties were riding fast,
we were not long before we met, when we learned that they had
been sent by Oui-jass to welcome us to his encampment. We
could see the yourts not far off, on the bank of a lake, whioh was
stretching out much beyond them. This was a raost delightful
scene after our dreary ride. It was plain that the chief was rich
in flocks and herds, and had a large aoul around him.
The Kirghis led rae up to a yourt where a spear, with a tuft
of red hair, was stuck in the ground, and a fine-looking old raan
was standing near, dressed in a rich silk kalat, striped with
crirason and yellow, tied round his waist with a green scarf. He
had a deep crimson silk cap, fitting close to his head, embroidered
with silver, and very high-heeled red leather boots. Thia was
Oui-jass, who took hold of the reins, and held up his hand to
help me to disraount. He then placed first his right hand, and
then his left, on my breast, after which he led me into his yourt.
The carpets were already laid down opposite the door ; on these
he placed me, and would have retired to a voilock had I not in
sisted on his sitting beside me. In a few minutes a brass tea-pot
was brought in ; then some small china tea-cups and saucers were
put on a low table, and placed before us ; a basin with sugar-
candy, and several plates ¦with dried fruit, were added. A youth,
about seventeen years old, carae in, knelt down before the table,
poured out the tea, and handed a cup to me, and then sorae of

COSTUME. 399
the fruit. He performed the same office for my host, and re
plenished our cups the moment they were empty ; and we had
the tea-pot filled several times.
The guests had crowded into the yourt the moment we were
sat down. Several were dressed in silk kalats and foxskin caps ;
the youth handed tea to these men, partaking of it himself, and
I was now informed that he was Oui-jass's son. Besides the
¦visitors in the yourt, I saw that there were many outside peeping
in at us, and frequently changing places, that all might get a view.
The costume of all my party had some similarity to that of the
Kirghis in fashion, but not in quality and color; but the differ
ence between the Khirgis costume and mine was so marked, that
they had never seen anything in the smallest degree resembling
it. I wore a shooting-jacket of rifle-green, a checked waistcoat
and trowsers — but very little of the latter were seen, as my legs
were inserted into a pair of long shooting-boots — a pink calico
shirt, with the collar tumed down over a small neck-tie, and a
large-brimmed felt hat that would accommodate itself tp any
shape. For a period of four years no barber had touched my
silvery locks, and they were hanging down in heavy curls. This
was a great wonder, as all male heads with them are closely
shaven. I wished to get some information about the country we had
yet to pass through to reach Sultan Sabeck. A Cossack and
Tchuck-a-boi were my interpreters. I learned that it would re
quire two days' hard riding to reach the aoul of Koubaldos ; that
we should find a small grassy valley where we oould encamp, and
a sandy waste on our second day's march. My host said Kou
baldos would not molest us at his o.oul, but that some of his
hands would be set on our track, and try to plunder us on our
march. I also ascertained that we were only six days' journey
from Tchin-si or Barkoul, lying near the eastern end of the Syan-
shan, on some of the lower slopes of the mountain.
Sultan Baspasihan's young stallion being placed under my oare
proved of great assistance. What his Kirghis reported to my
host I cannot tell, but Oui-jass also desired to forward a mission
to Sultan Sabeck. He wished to send three Kirghis with me,
and proposed to give us fresh horses, which he said we should
require farther on, while he would take charge of ours till we
returned to his passture-ground, three days' journey to the west-

400

FAREWELL TO OUI-JASS.

ward, where his aoul would be removed to in a few days. This,
he said, would be our route back. All these matters having been
settled, a Cossack brought me some broiled mutton, and the great
feast was served in another dwelling. In a few minutes I was
left quite alone, excepting a dog, who probably expected to fare
better with me than in the crowd at the banquet.
So soon as the first streak of daylight appeared on the steppe,
the Kirghis were in motion, and very shortly the horses were
brought in. Our preparations having been made, before the sun
rose, we said "Aman-bul" to Oui-jass and our late companions,
and sprung into our saddles. We were now seventeen in number,
and all were armed, eight with battie-axes. Before we started, I
desired one of the Cossacks to ask if any of the Kirghis were
afraid to visit the aoul of Koubaldos. Their reply was "jock"
(no), swinging their battle-axes round their heads. Our guide
pushed to the front and led the way, followed by three fine dogs.
Again we rode in a southeasterly direction, passing through large
herds of horses and cattle, which had not yet been driven to the
pastures. Our route was over a level plain for many hours, and
it was not until about noon we got a view of some ridges that ex
tended far to the southward. Our guide directed his course to
ward the north end of these hills, saying that the place for our
night encampment was near them. The change from rich pas
tures to banen steppes, from a scene so full of life as that we had
left in the morning, to the perfect solitude which sunounded us
now, afforded matter for much speculation. Here were little
communities nearly shut out from each other, and quite so from
the rest of the world, engaged in rearing their flocks and herds ;
and many of these people become old, and die without ever seeing
the face of man, excepting their own tribe.
To-day, we had a beautiful mirage — an enormous lake appear
ing stretched out across the steppe, with a large city standing on
its shore. Tall trees and extensive forests were pictured ¦with so
much fidelity, that it was really difficult to satisfy the mind that
the whole was an illusion. Hour after hour passed away as it
kept receding before us, and constantly changing its forms, till at
last it vanished. Two of the Cossacks and the Kalmucks had
never seeu this phenomenon before, and were much astonished
when they found the lake dry land. We had been nearly ten
hours on horseback when we came upon a small stream running

TRACKS. — PRECAUTIONS. 401
sluggishly toward a lake some five or six versts distant. It was
decided that we should rest for an hour, and let the horses drink
and feed. We had corae upon a spot where a number of horses
had been picketed, the Kirghis thought, only two or three days
before, from which they conjectured that some of the bands of
Koubaldos were out on a roving expedition. After an exami
nation, it was found that they had gone toward home, and it was
decided that we should follow their track. Having eaten some
cold mutton, and washed it down with a draught from the stream,
we resumed our journey.
Leaving the river in our rear, we rode over a sandy soil, pos
sessing very little vegetation, on which we found the track of
horses distinctiy visible — an excellent guide — and we pushed on
with increased confidence. The ridges we had seen at n.idday
had lost their hazy appearance ; they now stood up boldly from
the plain in rugged masses of purple-gray rooks. Th(-.y were
beautifully lit up by the setting sun, which developed many
singular forms. Beyond these, and far in the distance, other
mountains were seen ; and not far from these our guide said that
we should find Koubaldos. As we journeyed on, our shadows
were lengthening fast along the plain, and as yet we had seen no
signs of pasture or water ; but in less than an hour we arrived at
the edge of a little valley, beautifully green, with a small lake in
the middle, reflecting the golden tints of the sky. We were not
long reaching its shore, and a place possessing all the proper
requisites was soon found for our encampment, almost close to the
water's edge.
We had lost all traces of the Kirghis who had preceded us,
but before it was dark several of the men started along the shore
of the lake in both directions to search for their track, and the
party that had gone to the westward found their encampment
about a verst distant. The embers of the fire were still hot, and
the men thought they had slept there last night.
At dark our horses were brought close to the camp, and well
Bccured ; a guard of three men was appointed, to be changed
every two hours ; besides which, the Kirghis said the dogs would
give mouth if anything came near. Tchuck-a-boi proposed that
the fire should be extinguished, as the light would be seen to a
long distance over the steppe; this having been done, we lay
down to sleep with our arms close at hand. In an hour after
26

402

A ROBBER ENCAMPMENT.

sunrise we were on our march, and soon found the track of the
Kirghis' horses on the sandy waste. It turned more to the south
than our guide intended to go, but after a consultation we decided
on following it. As we rode along I saw tho white summits of
Syan-shan, but none of the lower range. Ha^ving passed by the
northern end of the rocky mass, which descended abraptly to the
plain, we entered a desert of sand and grwel quite destitute of
herbage. We had not gone far when the track we had been fol
lowing turned more to the east, and crntinued straight toward
a gap in the distant mountain. This cccorded with the opinion
our guide had expressed, and convinced me that he could take us
to the aoul. Hours passed over, and sand, with a few pebbles,
was all we saw; neither beast nor bird was met with. In some
pai-ts we found the tarantula, but not very numerous.
Soon after noon we observed a change of color on the plain in
the distance ; this indicated the position of the pastures we were
seeking. In another hour we could distinguish the green color,
which showed us that we were drawing near to this land of rob
bers. We pushed on and reached the turf, where it was struggling
to maintain its ground against the sandy intruder, and in a short
time were riding over good grass, but no cattle could be seen
feeding upon it. We examined the steppe in every direction,
but nothing was visible : this induced us to ride nearly due east
toward the great rent in the mountain. After proceeding in this
direction some time, I could distinguish some dark object on the
plain. Stopping our horses, I pointed them out to my compa
nions, not one of whom could see anything but the grassy steppe.
Feeling certain that I was right, I turned my horse and rode
toward the objects, followed by all. In less than half an hour
we could see the camels and large herds of horses feeding, but
not one man was ¦visible within the range of my vision. Still,
we were now sure of finding the aoul, and on we rode.
When within about a verst of the herd several men were seen
riding toward us, and one gallopping off in the opposite direction.
We had been observed, and our arrival would shortly be made
khown to the chief, if this was his aoul. It was not long before
four Kirghis met us ; and when Aman had been said, they began
a series of questions, desiring to know who we were, and where
we were going. It would have been difficult for any individual
among us to say who we were, but their last question was answered

KOUBALDOS. 403
by asking to be directed to the encampment of Koubaldos. They
instantly turned their horses and rode with us, going more to the
south. A conversation went on between our guide and them for
a short time, after which two of them started off at a gallop, and
we followed slowly. After riding about two ver.sts I saw the
aoul, whence several men were riding fast to meet us ; and our
horses being put into a canter, shortly brought us together.
They pulled up and greeted us, then two of them ro^e toward
me, and taking a place at each side, led the way. The distance
was not great, and I observed that the encampment was a large
one : I counted twenty-seven yourts, several with spears standing
at the doors. The Kirghis guided me to a large one, at the door
of which stood a tall man dressed in a black velvet kalat, a crim
son cap trimmed with fur, and a crimson shawl round his waist.
He stepped forward, took hold of the reins, and in the customary
manner gave me his hand to dismount. When I had alighted,
he touched my breast with his right and left hands, and then led
me into his dwelling.
I was now sitting faoe to face with the great robber-chief Kou
baldos, of whora I had heard so rauch, and whose fame has spread
far throughout Central Asia. When standing, I thought him tall ;
I now observed, when sitting, that he was reduced to about my
own stature — five feet eleven inches. The heels of his boots were
two inches high, and this had deceived me. Having placed me
on the carpet, he seated himself opposite, and ten or twelve of
his people sat beyond him. I could see that my face, figure, and
dress were being scanned by these men with the most rigid scru
tiny; nor was I less interested in the group before me. At this
moment tea was brought into the yourt by two boys, a small low
table was placed before us, and I invited my host to sit beside
me. We were now equals in honor, and his people had a full view
of both chiefs, for they looked upon me as the head of my band.
The tea was served in small china cups, and sugar-candy and
several sorts of dried fraits were placed on the table on china
plates. My host selected frait for me, was very attentive, at the
sarae time partaking of it largely himself, and I followed his ex
ample. Two Cossacks and Tchuck-a-boi were sitting at a short distance
from me. The youths handed tea to my men, and to three or
four of the Kirghis sitting in front. Sugar-candy was given to

^ '-4 DUCK-SIIOOTI.NO.
them, but no fruit. When these had finished, the other Kirghia
were regaled with the beverage. Koubaldos now began inquiries
concerning my visit, and asked where I was going. I desired a
Cossaok to say that I was travelling to Tchin-si, and could not
pass near his countiy without paying my respects to a chief so
famed; adding that I also intended to visit Sultan Sabeck, and
then continue my journey to Tchin-si. He inquired if I had
anything to sell, and was answered in the negative. He next
asked if I was going to buy goods at Tchin-si ; the answer "jock"
appeared to astonish him. He then wished to know why we had
so many rifies and arms. My reply was, " To kill game for food,
and defend ourselves." He expressed a wish to buy my pistols,
the double-barrel gun, aud two rifles. Again the Cossack rolled
out the word "jock" with great force ; and to his, requests for
powder and balls, he received the same answer. The Cossack
tumed to me and said, " The chort! let him have these, and he
would soon kill us."
I opened my folio and sketch-book, and showed him some
colored sketches. He looked at a view with yourts and camels in
the foreground, which interested hira greatly, but he would not
consent to have his own portrait taken. While the two sheep
were being cooked, Koubaldos was very anxious to see ray double-
barrelled gun used. He evidently thought both barrels would be
fired at the same raoment. Perhaps he also deemed it an imitation
of a Chinese sword whioh he had shown me, having two blades
in one hilt half an inch apart. This was drawn from its soab-
b-.ird with muoh care, and exhibited to me as a terrible weapon ;
but it did not produce the expected effect. As we rode down to
tlio noul, I had observed a lake at a short distance beyond, on
which many water-fowl were swimming. Taking my gun, 1 wem,
tiiw.ii-d it, followed by Koubaldos and his Kirghis ; when I got
n 'ar, several ducks rose ; I fired, and one dropped upou tbe water;
t.i'^ others wheeled round and carae baek, flying over our heads.
1 fired again, and shot a second duok, which fell dead within a
few yards of the chief.
He now exarained the gun, watched me reload, and evidently
would have liked me to shoot for hours had the ducks remained.
AVe returned to the yourt, when T desired the Cos.sack to inquire
how many days' journey it was to Tohin-si The chief said four
days, aud to Sultau Sabeck three days. Ho proposed that we

KIRGHIS COOKERY. 405
should go a more southem route, and visit his friend Ultigun, as
from his aoul we should find our way easier. The Cossacks and
Tchuok-a-boi thought it better to let him believe that we should
'take his advice, and then his plans would be formed in that direc
tion, but in the morning we could take our own course more to the
eastward ; by doing so we were certain to strike upon the pastures
of Sabeck.
The mutton was boiled and was dishing up when Koubaldos
rose and led me to a carpet on the outside. The ablutions per
formed, the smoking platters were placed before us. The Cos
sacks had boiled some of the meat for me, as the entrails had
been boiled in the caldron without having been particularly well
washed, an ordinary process in Kirghis cookery ; indeed, I had
seen lumps of masticated grass floating on the bubbling liquid and
in the soup-bowls at other places. There were about fifty men
grouped in front of their chief, some of them desperate-looking
fellows, who would not stand at trifles to attain any object. About
half this number of miserable-looking women were sitting around,
and many children were among thera. Most of the men had fur
coats on — many of horseskin, with the mane down the centre of
the back — and wore fur caps. This gave them a wild and rather
ferocious aspect, which was somewhat heightened by the savage
manner in which they dined.
I had no fear that we should be molested while staying in the
aoul. Koubaldos had already invited me to reraain another day
and rest our horses, but none of my people liked this, and the
Kirghis were anxious to continue our joumey in the morning.
Our horses were picketed near the yourt, and each man had
orders to take especial care of his arms. Just before dark it was
a busy scene round the encampment; the men were milking the
mares, the women the cows, sheep, and goats. Near to us stood
three large iron caldrons, placed over furnace-holes dug in the
ground. The women brought their leathern pails of milk and
poured them into these vessels, when three boys set a light to the
bushes beneath, and tended the fires until the contents in tbe
caldrons were boiling. This was the preparation of " hyran,"
composed of the milk of cow, sheep, and goat, whioh by boiling
becomes very thick. It is then cut into pieces four inches long
and two inches square : these are laid upon reed mats and dried
in the sun, which makes it a sort of cheese, that forms a consider-

406 SUSPICIOUS PROCEEDINGS.
able article of food ¦with the people in these regions. When dried
it has the appearance of yellow limestone, and is almost as hard.
They pound it in a mortar, then steep it in milk, and dine upon
it. I have eaten this food, but I cannot say that it is good.
I slept in the yourt of Koubaldos. Two Cossacks and Tchuok-
a-boi spread their furs near me. Having secured my arms, I lay
down, and was soon fast asleep within a few feet of the robber-
chief. A man must be a sound sleeper if he be not roused up at
daybreak in a Kirghis aoul, the noise of the aniraals being quite
sufficient to awaken tbe most drowsy of mortals. In a few minutes
after awaking I was out in the air, where I found one of the
Cossacks waiting for me. He had been up some time, and had
seen Koubaldos leave the yourt very quietly, and had also heard
men speaking to eaoh other, mount their horses, and ride away.
He instantly went out, and observed the ohief and four men leave
the encampment. I directed him to call Tchuck-a-boi, and tell
the other Cossacks to stay in \!tie yourt; also to bring my gun.
This was instantly done, and we then went toward the lake to
look for ducks. When far enough out of ear-shot, the Cossack
repeated to Tchuck-a-boi what he had told me.
We all agreed that there was soraething strange in the conduct
jf the chief — after inviting me to remain, then going off m this
manner ; and while continuing our walk to the lake, we settled
our plans, and decided to ask no questions. I shot a duck, and
the report of the gun brought out several Kirghis, who had most
probably been watching us. We then returned to the yourt, and
ordered the Cossack to let me have breakfast, and tell the other
men to take theirs. All this was done, and at the end of two
hours our horses were brought up saddled, and in a very short
time we were ready to march. After putting fresh caps on my
pistols, I stuck them in my belt, the Cossacks did the same, and
we then left the place.
I desired the Cossack to ask for Koubaldos of one of the Kirghis
who had sat near me in the yourt; the man replied that he had
gone to look at some horses, and would return by raidday. I then
requested my compliments to be given to him, adding ray regret
thati could not wait for his return. The Kirghis said that he
had received orders to conduct us to the aoul of Ultigun in case
we wished to start before his chief's return, but he was inforraed
that his aid would not be required, as we should not go there.

LEAVING THE ROBBERS. 407
which appeared to astonish him. He assured me that Koubaldos
had arranged for our visit to his friend, and would be angry if we
left without going to see him. I desired him to say that I thanked
the chief for his kind intentions toward us, and should be sorry
if he were angry at our departure, but that we did not fear his
wrath ; we could and would defend ourselves, if necessary. After
this we left the encampment, rode past the head of the lake, and
directed our course southeast.
We passed several Kirghis tending the horses and camels, and
they asked our Kirghis why we were travelling in a direction
where no aouls would be found ; but we wished them good-bye and
rode on. One of our men called my attention to three Kirghis
who had just left the encampment, and were riding fast toward
the south : this was significant. The pastures extended many
versts in this direction, and after riding about three hours we
noticed some yourts three or four versts distant, a little to the
north of our track. Two Cossacks, a Kalmuck, and a Kirghis rode
toward them, hoping to get some information, while we continued
our course, and in a little more than an hour they joined us. They
had found an old Kirghis, three women, and two boys at the
yourts, which belonged to Koubaldos, and ascertained that four
men had gone to his aoul very early this morning. There were
a large herd of horses and a few camels. A Cossack questioned
the old man about water and pastures farther on. He said that
we should find a small river if we rode fast before the sun set,
and plenty of grass on its banks for our horses, but he did not
know how far it was to the aoul of Sultan Sabeck.
The Kirghis succeeded better ; he discovered that one of the
women had been stolen from bis master's aoul several years ago,
and that the two boys were her children. He gave her informa
tion about her friends, and she told him that Koubaldos had sent
for the men, a Kirghis having come in the night and that they
were out on a plundering expedition, but she did not know where.
She also said that we should find a river and good pastures where
the old man had described; and at a day's ride beyond we should
come upon a lake and pasture. She had been there, and had re
mained while the band had gone to the pastures of Sabeck. She
added that we should see a pointed mountain, near which we should
find the sultan. The pointed mountain agreed with the descrip
tion Baspasihan had given me ; nor did I doubt the woman's

408

GLORIOUS SUNSET.

veracity. . It was thus Providence had given us all the informa
tion we required.
Our horses were now put into a sharp trot, and in about two
hours we left the grassy steppe and entered on a sandy waste.
The sun was still high, and we pushed on; another three hours
passed, and then we could see a dark line crossing the steppe:
these were the bushes on the river. Several rooky ridges ap
peared to the north; to the south it was a plain as far as the eye
could reach — a sterile and most uninteresting country. It was not
long before our horses pricked their ears, having scented the water
afar off, and we reaohed it half an hour before the sun sank below
the plain. I watched him go down ; it was a glorious sunset. A
reddish haze extended along the horizon, spreading over steppe
and sky, and obsouringthe dividing line between earth and heaven.
Golden clouds were scattered in fleecy masses above the spot where
the sun was last seen, and extended far up toward the zenith. They
first aSiSumed a bright fiame-color almost too dazzling for the sight;
then a reddish burning glow, gradually changing into a deep crim
son. The upper part of the sky was a deep blue gray, passing
with beautiful gradations into a greenish hue ; then to a pale yel
low, which became stronger in tone as it descended, until the color
was a brilliant orange, shadowing intq a deep red on the horizon,
now distinctly marked by the purple and misty plain. It was a
beautiful and calm scene, and my little band must have looked
like a speck on the vast desert.
A council was held on this spot, now so calm, which would pro
bably become the scene of strife and bloodshed before the sun oast
his morning rays over the steppe to cheer our solitude. The Cos
sacks, Tchuok-a-boi, and some of the Kirghis thought the band
woiild follow us. We all knew that it was not our horses alone
that Koubaldos wanted ; if they could only rob us of them, we
must become an easy prey; we could not escape on foot from these
vast sandy deserts, and the robbers would be able to secure oui
arms without much danger to themselves. It was probable that
they might make an attack upon us, hoping to succeed by num
bers, but we made up our minds that it should cost them much
blood before they obtained possession of our weapons. Koubal
dos would hear of us from the herdsmen, and at the small aoid,
where he would most probably get fresh horses, and follow. Il
was thought that his band might reach us soon after midnight;

A METEOR. 409
but before dark our rifles were all examined and put in good order.
I drew the charges from my gun, and loaded with ball cartridge,
of whioh I had a plentiful supply. Just at dusk the horses were
brought in and seoured, and the watches appointed. It was
arranged that a Cossack, a Kalmuck, and two Kirghis should take
the first watoh, two Cossacks and two Kirghis the second, tbat
myself, Tchuck-a-boi, and two Kalmucks should go on duty at
midnight, and the dogs would give us notice of the approach if
either man or beast.
All except the watch were soon asleep, and no one feared tl at
they would slumber on their post. Subsequently, when a C )S-
sack touched me, I sprung up, and was surprised that the ho^rs
had passed so quickly. My three companions were at their pos ts,
and the other men left us; they had not heard a sound save the
rippling of the stream, nor had the dogs given a growl. 1 he
night was beautiful; not a cloud was to be seen ; the stars shone
forth with great brilliancy, and a perfect stillness reigned o/er
this vast region. All nature seemed sleeping; even our own
footsteps were hushed as we paced the grassy turf; nor could
anything be seen when we peered into the deep gloom spread
over the steppe. We were quietly pacing on our different posts,
eaoh occupied with his own reflections, when suddenly the whole
plain was lit up with a pale blue light. This gave me a start for
a moment, and on looking up I saw a large meteor passing slowly
across the sky, from the south to the north, of a beautiful blue
color. After moving along for about thirty seconds it burst with
a great flash, and shortly followed a sound like the booming of a
distant gun. The noise awoke some of our people, who started
up, thinking that we had fired our rifles. I was much interested
with this phenomenon. Presently other meteors appeared ; they
were small, of a bright flame color, and rushed down with great
speed, frequently leaving a long train of white sparks behind
^them. Our watoh had passed without being disturbed by rob
bers; other men were called on duty, and I sat watching the me
teors. About half-past two o'clock they became very numerous,
and still more beautiful. Some were a bright crimson, others a
deep purple; they fell in various directions, but principally toward
the northwest, and continued to fall for more than an hour, during
which period I counted one hundred and eight. I frequently

410 A FALSE ALARM.
saw three and four at the same moment. This happened on tho
morning of the llth of August, New Style.
While this was going on I forgot both Koubaldos and his
band, and was sitting musing over the scene I had just wit
nessed, when a dog lying near me gave a growl; we remained
perfectly still ; shortly he repeated it, when the other dogs also
began to give forth low growls. Tchuck-a-boi and a Cossack who
were lying near declared that the dogs heard something on the
steppe. A long narrow streak of light was already breaking al(mg
the horizon on the northeast, therefore we should shortly have
light to see around us. Presently the dogs commenced to bark,
which roused up the whole camp. The Kirghis stopped their
barking and kept them still, as the noise would guide the band
toward us, should they be approaching. They, however, could
not take us by surprise, as all were on the alert. I now told the
Cossacks that not a shot was to be flred until I gave the word,
and then only four were to fire, each one selecting a Kirghis, be
ginning from the right, and making sure of his man; and while
they were reloading, the other four were to fire.
The gray dawn was creeping fast over the plain, and we could
see objects at some distance. The dogs were let loose, and they
left us, going along the side of the river ; very soon they set up
a furious barking, and we saw a small herd of deer bound over
the plain : their neighborhood had made the dogs uneasy. The
horses were now turned out to feed ; a fire was lighted, and two
men only left on duty; but nothing could be seen on any part of
the plain to indicate that we were pursued. Four of us started
down the riverin search of game. We had not gone far when
we found a brood of pheasants, of which several of the young
ones were carried back with us. They were well grown ; and I
can answer for their flavor, as one of them afforded me a break
fast. The morning was delightful, with a bright sun and a fine
breeze. About half a verst from the little river we came cn to
the sandy waste which stretched away to the eastward beyond the
reach of our vision. As we rode along we congratulated ourselves
on having passed one night without an attack. The Kirghis,
however, thought that we had not yet done with Koulaldos.
From what the captive woman had stated, we had a long day's
ride before we should reach the pastures on the lake. Por five or

WILD GOATS. 411
six hours our route was over a level sandy plain, with the salsola,
plant growing on many parts. After this it became slightly un
dulating, and very far in the distance we could see the summits
of apparently high ridges. We were now riding over a country
covered with tufts of long grass ; stUl, it had a dry and sterile
appearance ; farther on we came upon dwarf bushes, the green
foliage of which improved the country.
About the middle of the afternoon we first got sight of the
lake, which appeared to be of considerable dimensions, and was
surrounded by pastures that formed a green belt along its shores.
To the south there were some high ridges, which branched off
and extended westward. We were within about fifteen versts of
these, riding straight toward the centre of the lake, which was
not less than forty versts in length, and it was necessary to decide
to which end we should take our course. After some consulta
tion we determined to go to the south, as we thought that route
would lead us more directly toward the sultan's aoul.
Having travelled on about ten versts, and approaohed nearer
the mountain ridges, the faoe of the country became quite
changed. Immense blocks of granite were strewn over the sur
face, and small ravines were extending up toward the rocky ridges.
Rough as this was, it varied the scene, and was so far agreeable.
We had not gone far when the dogs came upon a large herd of
¦wild goats, which bounded off toward the mountain. After a
short ran they caught a kid, and it was carried, off with vast
satisfaction by the Kirghis. We continued our ride nearly south,
having ascended considerably toward the foot of the mountains,
which gave me a view over the country beyond the lake to the
north and east : in both directions it was steppe, with very small
elevations. There were no pastures in these regions within the
reach of my vision, whioh satisfied me that Sabeck must be sought
still more to the south. Having ridden a few versts farther, the
mountain ridge suddenly terminated, and a broad valley extended
to the ridge on the east. Between these lay a portion of the lake,
stretching twelve or fifteen versts up the valley, and about four
versts broad ; immediately opposite to us a long narrow neck of
land or rocks ran out into the lake, ferminating in a bold mass.
While I was engaged sketching this scene, one of the men
obs.erved smoke about half way up the mountain on the opposite
side of the lake, whioh, when pointed out, attracted the attention

412

SUSPICIOUS NEIGHBORS.

of the whole party. The Kirghis said that Koubaldos and his
robbers had arrived before us, knowing that we must pass in this
direction. As it was now late in the afternoon, we decided to en
camp on the shore of the lake. The party on the mountain would
see us as we rode down into the valley, as they were sure to have
men on the look-out. In a short time we reaohed the shore, and
found a beautiful spot for our encampment araong bushes and
good grass, about a verst to the sputh of the neck of land. The
lake was good fresh water, and at a little distance to the south
there was a long line of sandy shore. Whoever the people were
whose fire we had seen, they would soon know that they had
neighbors, as the smoke from our encampment began to rise in
thick wreaths.
While the men were preparing our suppers, I wished to exa
mine the narrow neck of land jutting out into the lake, and a
Cossack and Tchuck-a-boi accompanied me. I found it was a
ledge of rocks, in some places four paces wide, and in others
twenty. In parts the causeway was covered with a thick grassy
turf; elsewhere it was bare rock, with deep water on eaoh side.
At the other end were curious masses of dark purple rooks ; one
of large dimensions, with a deep recess on each side. Other
pillars were standing near it : from this point it is about eight
hundred yards to the shore.
While I was engaged sketching this curious and picturesque
scene, my two companions had been examining the spot, with the
intentior. of making it our encampment during the night. They
said there was no doubt that a great number of Koubaldos's men
were at hand, and they thought that an attack would be made in
the night by the whole band rushing down upon us when it was
supposed that we were sleeping — their usual mode of war and
plunder. Here was a spot on whioh we could defend ourselves
against five hundred. One part of the ledge was not more than
twelve feet wide : it was broken up, and large stones were scat
tered over it; and this narrow .passage was about one hundred
yards from the shore, and forty in length. We could shoot with
our rifles every man who ventured upon it, and our expected visi
tors had not been trained to face a deadly fire. It was arranged
that we should remain at our camp till it was quite dark, then re
move the horses to the farther end of the rocks, and secure them
there for the night, guarded by four Kirghis, who should take

NICHT ENCAMPMENT..

413

OUR NIGHT ENCAMPMENT.

charge of the dogs and prevent their barking. The Kirghis have
these animals so well trained that we had no fear of their betray
ing us. Having agreed on these matters, we retumed to the
camp, when our plan for passing the night was explained, and
orders given for carrying it into effect.
During the evening, several men had been seen on the moun
tain watching us : they could see whatever was done with our
horses, which, just at dusk, were brought up and picketed (as if
for the night) between us and the lake. The fire was piled up
with fuel, which threw up its bright flame, and showed the rob
bers that we were preparing for sleep ; but when the night was
sufficientiy dark, our steeds were saddled in readiness to depart
for our new abode in the citadel. Two Kalmucks were left to
keep up the fire, with orders to remain until Tchuck-a-boi recalled
them. We now rode slowly to our plaoe of security ; and having
reached the end of the narrow part, we dismounted, two of the
Cossacks going on with the Kirghis, and taking all our horses
with them ; the former were to see that they were well secured,
then return to us, after giving the Kirghis strict injunctions to

414 APPROACH OF KOUBALDOS.
keep the dogs quiet. The saddle-cloths were brought, when we
at once pitehed upon a spot for our night's lodging, at about
twenty-five paces from the end of the narrow pass. A Cossack
and a Kirghis were stationed at the opposite end, nearer the
shore, to listen for the approach of the robbers, with orders to
creep along the rocks and join us when they heard the band
coming near. Tchuck-a-boi had called in his Kalmucks, and one
was appointed sentinel. We now felt perfectly secure in our
position, and lay down to sleep. The fire of our old encampment
sent up a strong glare of light. I watched its flickering on the
water for a short time as I lay on the bank, and then fell fast asleep.
Before the flrst watch was over, the two men from our advanced
post had come in, announcing that the villains were at our encamp
ment. Bushes had been thrown on the fire, and the flames
springing up enabled our sentinels to see men on horseback. I
now ordered that three men only should fire at a time; this would
give us three volleys, and my gun would do good service in
defending the narrow pass. Two Cossacks and myself would fire
first, then Tchuck-a-boi and his Kalmucks; lastly, the others.
This being thoroughly understood, we waited patiently for the
approach of the enemy. Presently we heard the tramp of horses
on the shore, but it was too dark to distinguish any object. The
robbers were riding slowly along, and shortly stopped at the neck
of land ; many were talking fast, but the Kirghis oould not hear
what was said. A party presently advanced along the ledge, and
we could hear them coming nearer, and they soon reaohed the
narrow part where not more than three could ride abreast. This
brought them to a stand ; on our side every rifle was ready, but
we could not see a man; they stood and spoke, but no one
attempted to ride over.
Every word they uttered could now be distinctly heard, and
we presently recognised the voice of Koubaldos. The band
remained talking on this spot for about ten minutes, then re
tumed to the shore, going off at a trot to the northward. The
Kiro-his explained what they had heard. Koubaldos was very
angry that we had escaped, calling us cowards, and he told his
band that we could be easily taken. He was certain that we had
gone to the north end of the lake, and by following quickly he
would bo up with us at daylight, and have us fast in the mo
rasses. Even if we succeeded in passing these, he was equally con-

THE ROBBERS DISAPPOINTED. 415
fident of being able to drive us on the steppe, from whence we
could not reach Sultan Sabeck's aoul in less than, three days,
before which we could easily be cut off when our horses were
exhausted for want' of water.
The Kirghis wished to leave as soon as possible, and ride to
the southward ; but to this plan none of my men would consent.
It was finally arranged that we should leave the moment day
dawned, without stopping to feed our horses or ourselves ; for
when it was daylight, Koubaldos would discover his mistake, and
probably be forty versts away from us with tired horses. A vigi
lant watch was kept up, but we were not disturbed again till the
horses were brought to be saddled. This was done in the dark,
and when the first faint gleam of light was seen in the east, the
animals were led over the rocky ledge. We now turned to the
south, following the shore of the lake, and it was soon light
enough for us to see the track on the sand. The Kirghis thought
that there were forty or fifty men with Koubaldos, who doubtless
felt certain that with this band we should be easily secured.
Having reached the end of the lake, we followed their track and
forded a narrow part. This placed us on the east side ; and we
rode toward the mountain, where our enemies had been lurking,
and skirted along its base.
Daylight was spreading fast over mountain and steppe, giving
a rich velvet appearance to the herbage round the lake. We
were still on the track of our enemies, and now found that they
had come from the opposite side of the mountain. The smoke
we had seen was from a fire which their men on the look-out had
made, and so most fortunately gave us warning. A ride of two
hours brought us to a small lake with good grass, where we found
plenty of evidence that this had been their resting-place; we
decided to let our horses feed here, breakfast ourselves, and then
push on in search of Sabeck. As it was necessary to give our
animals sufficient time, I proposed to a Cossack and Tchuck-a-
boi that we should ascend the mountain and look out for the
sultan's aoul; and in about an hour we stood on the summit,
although the ascent in some parts was rather difficult. The rock
was a deep red granite, with thick veins of quartz crossing the
mass from east to west; there was scarcely any vegetation, and it
had a very rugged and sterile aspect. No aoul could be seen,
nor a living thing of any kind, on the whole expanse of this vast

416

AGATES AND CORNELIANS.

plain. We examined the shores of the lake, but no one could
be seen there. After crossing several large rocks, we reaohed a
point ¦which afforded a view more to the south, aud there we saw
the pointed mountain described by the Kirghis woman.
This was an excellent guide for us, and we descended to the
plain in less time than it occupied in going up, and found every
thing ready for a march. We left the pastures, and entered
upon a barren waste of sand and pebbles, among which I dis
covered several fine agates and a few cornelians ; had there been
time, many good specimens could have been obtained. It was
not till after a ride of more than five hours that we saw the
suramit of the mountain toward which we were bound. If the
aoul was there, we could not reach it before dark, and now we
began to be apprehensive as to not finding water. The snowy
peaks of the Syan-shan were observed to the southwest, much
nearer than we had ever seen them before, and a cool breeze
blowing from that direction enabled us to push on without dis
tressing our horses. A few more hours, and the conical moun
tain stood boldly up from the plain. Pointing to certain dark
lines visible in the distance crossing the steppe, the Kirghis said
we should reach the pasture before sunset, aud, to make sure of
the fulfilment of their predictions, they put their horses into a
sharp canter. They were right; an hour before sunset we saw,
not alone pastures, but horses and camels feeding. This was a
joyful sight to man and beast, and we presently reached the
herds. We soon came upon some Kirghis, who told us that these were
flocks belonging to Sultan Sabeck, who was at his aoul seven or
eight hours distant. They looked at us with some alarm until
the Kirghis explained their mission to the sultan, when they led
the way and brought us to a few yonrts in a small valley. Here
we found other herdsmen, and two of their dwellings were given
up to us and a sheep killed, while two men were sent to carry the
news to the sultan, and say that we should follow in the morning.
Our Kirghis having informed our new friends how Koubaldos
had followed us, they called him Shaitan, and spat toward him.
The night was spent without our watching, and early in the
morning, fresh horses were ready to take us to the sultan's aoul,
to which four Kirghis accompanied us, the route being southwest,
leaving the conical mountain to the east. Blost part of the way

SULTAN SABECK. 417
was over good pastures, which our tired horses seemed desirous
of enjoying. Before we reached our destination, we had a beau
tiful view of the Syan-shan, taking in the lower chain. Shortly
after midday, a party of six Kirghis met us : they had come to
conduct us to the encampment, still several versts distant. They
were dressed in rich silk kalats of very bright colors; some had
embroidered silk caps on their heads, and others had caps of
foxskin. We soon obtained a view of the aoul, standing on the edge of
a lake, with high reeds and long grass growing on its banks. As
we rode on, I observed that this encampment consisted of many
habitations ; while at the distance of ^ verst, and beyond, were
other large ones, as well as several scattered along the shore, on
the opposite side of the lake, which appeared about two versts
broad. In answer to my inquiries, I was told that they all be
longed to Sultan Sabeck and his tribe. As we drew near the
yourts, I was guided toward one of considerable size, standing
alone on the edge of the lake, where a group of Kirghis were
waiting in their richly-colored kalats. When we reached them,
a tall man stepped forward, took hold of the reins, and gave me
his hand to dismount. To refuse such assistance would be a
mark of disrespect, and I had by this time reconciled myself to
the custom. This was Sultan Sabeck, who saluted me in the usual
manner, and then led me into his dwelling, the floor of which was
covered with voilock and with two Bokharian carpets. On these
he placed me, and sat down on the voilock in front, giving me all
the honors ; but these, I, as usual, insisted should be divided.
The place was shortly fllled by Kirghis, taking their seats in cir.
cles, according to their grade, before us. One of the Cossacks,
who spoke Kirghis well, and Tchuck-a-boi, were always my attend
ants on these state ceremonies, and places were always given to
them in the first circle near me. Several of the Kirghis from
Baspasihan and Oui-jass were seated near, as they were also dis
tinguished guests.
A small low table having been placed between the sultan and
myself by a young Kirghis, two others deposited on it Chinese
dishes filled with dried fruits ; to these were added plates of small
cakes, and sweetmeats, the productions of Chinese confectioners,
which gave an aspect of variety and elegance to the repast. Then
tea was served to the sultan and myself in beautiful Chinese cups.
27

^l"^ VISIT RETURNED.
The fruit, cakes, and sweetmeats were delicious. Wheu we had
finished, the company were regaled with the beverage. Sultan
Sabeck was a tall man, with a raddy, intelligent countenance, black
eyes, and a dark beard. His kalat was of kanfa (Chinese satin),
of a deep purple color, with flowers embroidered in various-col
ored silks, whioh produced a beautiful robe. A rich yellow crape
scarf was tied round his waist"; his cap was sable, tumed up with
crimson silk ; and he wore light green boots and yellow over-shoes.
The other Kirghis were dressed in silk kalats, some of which
were exceedingly beautiful. The yourt in whioh we sat had been
prepared especially for me, and such of my people as the Kirghis
thought were in attendance ; for the others, another was placed
near. After tea the sultan asked many questions about his friends
Baspasihan and Oui-jass; also if I had seen Koubaldos. The
Cossack gave him an account of the proceedings of the robber-
chief, when he apprised me that his bands would be watching
for our return, and stated that we must take care, or they would
plunder and kill us. I inquired how far we were from Tchin-si,
a Chinese town, and was told a two days' journey ; but on our
way back we should be much nearer. My host advised me not
to go there, as we should have much trouble with the Chinese
officers, and perhaps be taken prisoners, assuring me than there
were five thousand soldiers in this garrison, commanded by two
generals. The sultan rose to depart ; his horse, and those of his attend
ants, were brought to the door, and they rode to his yourt,
although the distance was not more than fifty yards. He was
going to receive the Kirghis sent by Baspasihan and Oui-jass. The
Cossack told me that horses were waiting to take us to the sultan ;
that he had been my guest, and that I must now return his visit,
as tea was being prepared for me. In a short time a messenger
came to say that all was ready, and we mounted the horses and
rode to his dwelling. The sultan received me, and placed me on
the carpet, taking a seat opposite. The sultana and her daughter
were sitting near us — the fonner was not handsome — she was clad
in a black velvet kalat embroidered with colored silk, and wore a
crimson crape scarf round her waist, and a white muslin head
dress. Her daughter was pretty ; she had a kalat of crimson
and yellow silk, reaching a little below the knee ; white cotton

PRESENTS. 419
drawers and a white silk turban, with her long black curls hang
ing beneath.
Again I was regaled with tea, and this time in the company of
ladies, who did- not officiate at the table, the beverage and fruit
being handed to us by the attendant. The young stallion sent
by Sultan Baspasihan was now led to the door, and one of the
Kirghis who had accompanied me knelt before the sultan, and
delivered his master's message, which appeared to give great
satisfaction both to him and to his tribe. A Kirghis sent by
Oui-jass delivered in the same manner a small packet, which was
received by Sultan Sabeck with evident delight. What it con
tained I cannot tell, as it was not opened ; my Cossacks said it
was altin (gold). When this was over, all rose and went out to
look at the young stallion. He was examined by many critical
eyes, and pronounced perfect ; we then returned to my yourt on
horseback. In a short time dinner was brought to me — a large platter
heaped up with broiled mutton and boiled rice, which I found
very good. A sheep was served in the other yourt, on which
they feasted joyfully. After dinner my host paid me another
visit, when I announced my wish to depart in the morning ; but
he proposed that I should remain till noon the next day, as he
wished to send presents to his friends ; moreover, that he would
give me horses and Kirghis to guide me to another aoul of his
eight hours distant, where we must sleep, whence three of his
own Kirghis and several others of the tribe, with fresh horses,
should accompany me two days' journey across the desert, as
without such assistance we should not be able to find either water
or pasture. To this arrangement I willingly assented. The
sultan said it would be dangerous to approach near the foot of the
Syan-shan Mountains, as we should be sure to meet with large
bands of Chinese robbers, who often committed great depredations,
and murdered the Kirghis. His own guide was to accompany
us, who knew the country, and would point out the mountains
over which we must pass on our route 4o the aoul of Oui-jass,
which he supposed we should reach in eight days. Beyond the
¦pastures of Sultan Sabeck to the south and east there are no more
Kirghis : the country is a sandy desert, destitute of water for
many hundred versts.
In the evening it was a busy scene round the aoul; the plains

420

SYAN-SHAN MOUNTAINS.

were covered with camels, horses, oxen, sheep, and goats; and
great numbers of the latter were being milked My host esti
mated the number of his horses at eight thousand, and his camels
at six hundred : these are sold to the Chinese ; but he had no
idea how many oxen, sheep, and goats belonged to him. Here
we had no thought of robbers ; we therefore determined to take
in a store of rest, and, like good Kirghis, lay down to sleep at
dark. Early in the morning all were in motion making ready for an
other march. The sultan had prepared the presents for his
friends : they consisted of Chinese silks and tea ; and some of
the latter, of a very fine quality, he presented to me. Before
midday we had dined, after whioh I took leave of my host and
his family, and then left, accompanied by six of his Kirghis.
He had given me for this journey one of his best horses, that
possessed great strength and speed, and had ordered that another
equally good should be provided for me at his aoul. Our route was
to the southwest, over a grassy turf for many versts; after which
we came upon a gravelly soil, but not destitute of herbage, rising
into gentle undulations, and forming several small valleys. In
one of these we found a stream of pure water, its banks clothed
with rich grass and bushes. Not far from this we saW a large
herd of antelopes. Here the dogs had a sharp run, but were too
far behind at starting to succeed.
Every hour gave me a better view of the lofty peaks of the
Syan-shan, and the effect was beautiful as they glittered in the
evening sun, while the blue and misty summits of the lower range
were seen rising above the brown and yellow steppe. As we rode
on the sun sunk fast, till at last he set below the snowy peaks,
throwing up a fiood of golden light into the clear blue sky. Our
horses were now urged on rapidly, nor was it long before we saw
herds of camels and horses going slowly toward their home, when
two of the sultan's Kirghis gallopped on to announce us. Just
before the Syan-shan was lost in the gray twilight we reached
the aoul, and found the Kirghis busy preparing a yourt in whioh
thej- intended I should lodge. This was a large encampment,
and had several others around it, all belonging to the tribe of the
sultan. A stream of clear water was winding in many a turn
along the steppe, and thousands of cattle were scattered about
on its banks, giving me a most vivid idea of the days of the

BOGDA OOLA. 421
patriarchs ; many Kirghis were gallopping about in their wild
costumes, adding much interest to the scene. I was ushered into
my new dwelling by the chief of the aoul, when tea was served.
The yourt was soon filled by both sexes, who crowded in to take
a peep at the strangers. In due time the substantial repast was
ready, and a Cossack having brought me my supper, all left the
plaoe to take their own. Mine was soon ended, when I turned
down on the voilock and slept.
In the morning fresh steeds were neighing and prancing round
the yourt, and one having been led up for me by the ohief, I
mounted. In a few minutes all my party were in their saddles,
and after ^ying " Aman-hul" we tumed to the south, rode across
the stream, and left these pastoral people for ever.

CHAPTER XXVII.
TCHIN-SI AND SYAN-SHAN.

A BRIGHT sun was rising behind us, but his rays had not yet
touched the snowy peaks in our front. As we rode on I watched
for the first bright gleam that lighted up the ice and snow on
Bogda Oola, which one of the men had pointed out to me. Pre
sently his crest was tipped with a crimson glow, gradually descend
ing and changing into yellow, and then to a silvery white. The
sun shone upon his head for many minutes before any of the
lower peaks were touched by his rays. After this new peaks
were shooting into light every few seconds, till at last the whole
chain was a mass of dazzling white, while all the lower ranges
were clothed in hazy gloom. There is something marvellously
grand in these effects, and in the changes which pass over such
stupendous mountain masses. Having observed them, I examined
the addition to my band, which now consisted of twenty-five men
and forty-five horses. Four of the sultan's men carried long
lances and battle-axes, the others battle-axes only; and their
horseskin coats, with the flowing manes and helmet-shaped caps,
gave them a singularly savage aspect. The Kirghis selected as my
guide aoross the desert was a man about forty years of age, with
a good, intelligent faoe, and a strong, athletic frame. He always

422

CHINESE ROBBERS.

accompanied the sultan on his journeys, knew the routes in every
direction, and had led several expeditions against Koubaldos and
other plundering bands, that, he said, were in retaliation for rob
beries committed on their tribe. In these enterprises they had
taken several men and women, which the sultan kept as slaves.
We had travelled many hours over the sandy plain, when the
guide pointed out a green spot a few versts to the south, and as
it possessed water and grass, we tumed our horses in this direc
tion, and soon reached it. The water was brackish, nevertheless
the horses drank it; but the guide would not let them feed, as we
were far from the pastures selected for our night's encampment.
He informed me that we were now only eighteen hours from
Tchin-si, adding that if I wished he would take me to'some pas
tures six hours nearer the town, where I could see the mountains
better, as well as a neighboring lake. He acknowledged that we
might meet some Chinese robbers, but thought that they would
not like to attack us, and advised that good watch should be kept
over our horses in the night. By taking this route, he told me,
we should pass nearer the Syan-shan, and be one day more cross
ing the desert. Neither Chinese robbers, nor the additional day
in the desert, had any weight with me ; I instantly ordered our
march in the direction he pointed out, which was directly south.
Again we were on a sandy plain, riding fast, as it was necessary
to reach the pastures before sunset, that our horses might feed
before dark.
I now observed that the mountains terminated rather abmptly
on the plain, some low hills only extending to the southeast. We
kept up our speed, and reaohed the pastures and a small lake in
good time. Our guide directed his course to the farther end of
this piece of water, where thick clumps of bushes were growing.
We stopped close to the mouth of a small river, fiowing from the
southwest, where we found a delightful spot for our encampment ;
there were thousands of water-fowl flying and swimming on the
lake. My gun was soon in readiness, when I sallied forth to
procure a supper, accompanied by Tchuck-a-boi and the Kirghis
guide. The latter was greatly interested in my proceedings, as
he had never seen a gun flred. We had not gone more than fifty
paces along the shore when several large snipes rose up : they
were in great numbers, and many fell ; twice I killed two with
one barrel. Ducks were also lying in the grass, and as they rose

SIGHT OF A CHINESE TOWN. 423
I added several to our bag — one as large as a young goose, with
beautiful plumage. His neck and breast were a bright orange,
with black feathers on the top of his head ; the back was a deep
reddish-brown, with a bar of black across his yellow wings. T'le
feathers on his belly were a yellowish cream-color, and his bill
and legs red. His Kirghis name is "Turpan :" many were swim
ming on the lake. The guide was delighted when he saw the
birds fall, and I believe deeply regretted that the gun had not
been as well used against the Chinese bands, who give his people
much trouble. We supped this evening upon snipes, ducks, and
tea. Our guide arranged the watches, placing four men on duty
at a time, to whom he gave instructions to wake us quietly if
there was any alarm. We were not once disturbed, and I slept
soundly till morning.
The horses had fed early, and soon after sunrise we started, rid
ing along the bank of the little stream for a considerable distance,
to a point where it made a sharp turn to the southeast. We con
tinued our ride to the south for several versts, and reached a large
tumulus, around which there were many of smaller dimensions.
We were now within a three hours' ride of Tchin-si, and nearer
the guide would not go : he had never been in the town, and had
no wish to visit it. I could see the lake he had mentioned, which
is a short distance from the town to the eastward. The buildings
were also distinctly ¦visible on the declivity of a hill ; but there
are no striking edifices or large architectural masses in a Chinese
town. The houses are small, and of no great elevation.
To the northwest of Tchin-si the Syan-shan rises into large
peaks, but they do not reach the snow-line. After taking my last
look at the town we turned to the northeast, and rode along the
plain parallel to the mountain chain, the rugged and riven tops of
whioh were in full view. I believe these, stupendous masses were
then seen and sketched for the first time by any European. V/e
had ridden over the sandy steppe for several hours, when we
reached the first elevation of this great mountain mass, which runs
far out into the desert to the northeast. Ascending this, we ob
served a smoke about ten versts distant in a southwesterly direc
tion. The guide said that there were no good people in that
region, and that if they discoverec^ us we might be sure of a visit.
Our route was now over undulating ground, formed into broad
sweeping valleys, partly covered with tufts of steppe grass, grow-

424 STONY VALLET.
ing about four feet high, and looking in the distance like ryo
ready for the reapers. It is so coarse that horses will not feed
upon it, nor is it pleasant to ride among, as the seed pierced
through our clothing.
After crossing several of these valleys, we ascended a much
higher ridge covered with small stones, which rendered our ride
very tedious. From the summit we looked down upon a steppe
apparently twenty or thirty versts in breadth, the yellow sand giving
it a sterile aspect. It extends in a northeasterly direction for
a long distance, till it joins the great plain. At the foot of the
hill we had to descend to a small lake twelve or fifteen versts in
length, and varying in width from one to three versts. Its shores
were covered with green herbage to a considerable distance from
the water, and it was fed by two streams entering from the south
west, but there was no outlet. Here we stopped to rest, and feed
our horses on the rich grass whioh covered the shore. I made
another sketch of the Syan-shan, but Bogda Oola is not well seen
from this, though many other snowy peaks were visible. Early
in spring this lake is much larger; the water extends far over the
grassy plain, which is carried off by evaporation during the sum
mer. As far as any moisture reaches, there we found herbage.
Having passed this, we were on the arid steppe, on which not a
blade of grass was growing, nor was there one living thing to be
seen excepting our party. To the northeast it had the appear
ance of a vast sandy ocean, with a purple ridge rising up in the
distance like an island on a yellow sea. It was a long ride before
we reached the opposite ridge, and when on the top I observed
that a narrow stony valley lay before us. This we crossed, and
ascended another hill, from which we looked down upon a lake not
a verst distant, and, greatly to the astonishment of our Kirghis,
beheld two small aouls with camels, a large number of horses, and
a few sheep. Our guide declared that we had fallen upon a band
of thieves, and proposed that we should cross the valley without
stopping, and seek another place to encamp, some hours distant
from these men. I did not agree to this plan, telling him that it
would be ranning away, which would give these people courage.
I ordered that we should encamp on the lake, which the Cossacks
and Kalmucks thought the best plan, and we rode down toward
the yourts.
We had not proceeded far when a man gallopped off toward the

TAKEN FOR ROBBERS. 425
other aoul, and all the people at this one were in great commotion.
As we came nearer the yourts the women began to scream, and
the men sprung on their horses, brandishing their battle-axes.
It was now quite clear that they thought us robbers like them
selves. Shortly two old men rode out and met us, and, seeing
that we were well armed, they began to beg of us not to plunder
their aoul. A pledge to this effect was instantly given, when one
of them gallopped back to his friends, and we slowly followed.
A yourt was instantly given up to me (the supposed robber-
chief), but when we reached it half a dozen women were carry
ing it bodily to a clean piece of grass. At this aoul there were
thirteen men, and wild-looking scoundrels they were ; nor would
they have shown us much consideration had we been the weaker
party. Deeming it desirable to know how many men there were in the
other aoul, the guide, two Cossacks, Tchuck-a-boi, and a Kalmuck
accompanied me, and the two Kirghis who had met us led the
way. As we approached, the women were ranning about from
yourt to yourt, making great lamentations. The men were on
horseback ready for fighting ; but when they saw Kirghis of their
own tribe riding beside me, they came to meet us in peace, and
were assured by the guide that we were not going to plunder them.
Here were five yourts and eleven men besides those who were with
the cattle : thus they outnumbered us ; they would, however, have
had no chance against our weapons. As we returned along the
shore, I observed two pelicans standing on a small grassy island
about two hundred yards distant. As this was a good opportunity
of showing the Kirghis the effect of our rifies, I told a Cossack to
shoot one of them. He instantiy dismounted, and returned back
a short distance till he got both birds in a line, or till the body
of one covered the other. The prongs of his rifle were then
thrown forward, he knelt, and as- the leaden messenger sped on
its errand, one fell dead, and the other sprung up and fell on the
water a few yards distant. Two Kirghis rushed into the lake,
rode to the spot, and brought back the game, when I perceived
that the lake was very shallow. This shot produced a wonderful
effect on the minds of these wild fellows : they examined the wounds
on the birds, and looked at each other with great astonishment.
When we reached the yourt the sheep was preparing; nor
was it long before a Kirghis rode up with one from the other aoul.

426

A FEAST.

to feast the formidable robber-chief and his band. My tea having
been prepared and placed before me, with three tumbler glasses,
I ordered the Cossack to ffil them, give one to each of the old
Kirghis who first met us, and hand me the other. This gave
great satisfaction. I also desired him to give a sufficient quantity
of brick-tea to feast all the people in the aoul ; after which I was
established in the good graces of both sexes. I wished to obtain
some information about the country we had yet to travel through,
and desired a Cossack to ask how far we were from the aoul of
Ultigun ; also, if any one could guide me to him. The old Kir
ghis said we could ride there in two days, promising that some
of their tribe should go with us a day's journey and point out the
route ; but no one would guide us to his den. I then inquired
for the aoul of Oui-jass, also about his horses and camels, which
they felt sure we intended stealing. They most willingly gave me
full information on all these points, and said it would take four
days to ride to his aoul. The two chiefs of these encampments
were Kirghis from the great horde, whose faces bespoke familiarity
with crime. Several Chinese, with a few Mongolians, and Kir
ghis who had escaped from different hordes, composed this band
of cut-throats and plunderers. A strict watch was kept over our
horses, and a sentinel placed on duty where we slept, for we
could not trust these men too far. The rest of us lay down with
our arms close at hand, and shortly nothing was heard in the
aoul except the bark of a dog and the cry of the watchman.
When we turned out in the morning only three Kirghis were
left ; the others had gone before daylight, driving off the horses
and cattle, thinking that we had stolen our horses from Sultan
Sabeck, and that we should do the same here on our departure.
We were not long in preparing for our ride ; the Kirghis had
given us instructions about our ride, telling us that we should find
one or two aouls on our way, and probably meet Syren and his
band, and other plundering chiefs of extraordinary daring. They
knew he was in the country over which we must pass, and thia
had induced them to move to the southward.
The sun was shining brilliantly when we left the lake, and to
cross the valley and ascend the opposite hill was but a short ride.
Beyond this, our route was over a grassy undulating steppe, in
many places covered with reeds. Early in spring there are many
large shallow lakes, whioh render the country swampy; but the

PICTURESQUE SCENERY. 427
water was now nearly dried up, and reeds and bulrashes occupied
their beds. Through these we had to wend our way for eight
hours, when we crossed another ridge and descended into- a small
valley, with a river in the bottom ranning toward the northeast,
and feeding the lake on which we slept the night Koubaldos
missed us. This was to be our encampment for the night, and
Sultan Sabeck's Kirghis would leave us and retum toward their
home in the morning. It was necessary to obtain all the informa
tion we oould from the guide relative to our route. For this
purpose four of us rode to the top of a high ridge, from which we
had an extensive view far over the country, whence the guide
pointed out several summits which would be landmarks for us.
I took the bearings, made a few notes, and then had no fear of
not finding Oui-jass.
We spent the night in peace, and early in the morning said
Aman-bul to our friends and separated. Both parties reached
the top of the ridges nearly at the same time, when we stopped a
few minutes, waved our caps, and rode on, never to see each
other more. I now took upon myself the duty of guide, and
pointed out the route to Tchuok-a-boi and a Kirghis, after which
we entered a more fertile region. The hills and valleys were
covered with short grass, among which many beautiful flowers
were gro^wing — several unknown to me. As our horses were in
good condition, the Kirghis wished to push on fast, and leave the
region belonging to Koubaldos behind us.
As we rode on this morning we had a beautiful view of Bogda
Oola and some of the other peaks to the west, but shortly after
ward clouds began to gather around his head, and soon obscured
him in surging vapor. The lower range of the Syan-shan is ex
ceedingly picturesque; jagged peaks stand out in bold relief
against the snowy masses, whieh tower up from eight to ten
thousand feet above them, while the rich purple and misty tone
spread over these mountains produced a marvellous effect. About
midday we saw a great smoke near the foot of one of the moun
tains to the southwest, rising in dense black colurans and extending
over a considerable space. The Kirghis thought it was one of the
Chinese towns on flre ; we could not, however, see any flames, as
some high hills intervened. Shortly afterward we reached a river,
flowing rapidly over a rocky bed, where we stopped to feed our
horses and refresh ourselves.

428 UNEXPECTED VISITORS.
It was now discovered that there was only one bird left, which
was cooked, and I made a good dinner; the men, having been
pro-vided with plenty of smoked horseflesh by Sultan Sabeck,
fared well. While we rested the clouds gathered thicker on the
mountains, which indicated a coming .storm, and made us hasten
onward. Our route was still over grassy hills, with broad sweep
ing valleys running down to the great plain. These, and the
Syan-shan Mountains, being obscured, rendered the journey ex
ceedingly monotonous. It was not till the evening of the third
day that the clouds rolled off, when the mountains stood out in all
their majestic grandeur. We were near the high ridge whioh had
been our landmark for the last three days — and hungry ones they
had been to me — and had arrived at the end of a narrow valley
extending up toward the mountains, and forming a deep gorge
through the lower chain : the plaoe possessed many bold and
picturesque scenes.
Here we decided to encamp, having found all the requisites of
grass, wood, and water. A small river was winding along between
banks thickly covered with trees and high bushes. While our
camp was preparing, and the horses sent out to feed, four of us
started in search of game. We had not gone far when I shot a
pheasant, and a Kalmuck was sent back with it to the cook. We
proceeded down the valley; in a short tirae I procured two
others, and then returned to our camp. My tea was ready, the
pheasant was cooking, and the soent gave an additional zest to
my hunger. The men were sitting at their suppers, and the
horses were feeding about a hundred paces distant, when sud
denly our dogs set up a furious barking. The Kirghis had warned
me that tigers were found in these mountains, and that sometimes
they came to their aouls and carried off cattle. We all thought
that there must be one approaching, and in a moment were on our
feet, rifle in hand, when we observed over the tops of the bushes
the cause of the alarm — a group of men on horseback coming down
the valley. They were within about one hundred yards of us, look
ing intently at our horses.
At first they did not see us till several of the party stepped out
on to the open space. I noticed that they were seven in nuraber
— three armed with long spears, the others with battle-axes, and
had with them two savage Blongolian dogs. They stood still for
three or four minutes, unslung their spears and battle-axes, and

INFORMATION GAINED. 429
* . . .
then slipped their dogs, which came at us furiously, wbile they
prepared to charge when their four-footed allies should be tearing
some of us down. We let the dogs come within thirty yards; a
Cossaok and myself then fired, when one fell dead, and the other
was wounded with shot from my gun, which sent him howling
back. Their masters, now within fifty yards of us, pulled up
their horses in a moment, and the Kirghis told thOm that if they
moved they should be killed like the dog. Their battle-axes were
instantly put down, and four of them dismounted. A Cossack,
two Kirghis, and myself met them, and exchanged salutations.
The Cossack asked why the dogs were set upon us, and, without
any hesitation, they said it was done to occupy our attention
while some of the men drove off the horses, believing that we
were a party of Kirghis, and knowing that when our animals
were secured they could take us at their leisure. I invited these
men to our camp, to which I returned, the other three following
with their horses.
When these men saw our whole party and observed our arms,
they seemed greatly astonished, and evidently considered that
they had fallen into a trap, as we were again taken for a power
ful band of robbers, very dangerous to meet. They told us that
their aoul was in a valley on the west side of the mountain, to
whioh we oould ride by midday if we started early in the moru-
ing. I received most pressing invitations to visit their chief Sy
ren, who, they said, held great power over all the tribes to the
westward of the mountains. I told them that my present engage
ments rendered it impossible for me to visit Syren on this occa
sion, but it was probable we might meet in his western dominions,
when I hoped he would order his followers not to set their dogs
upon me, or I would shoot both the men and animals. In answer
to our questions about the locality of the pastures of Oui-jass,
they gave us full information, stating that they had also been on
the look-out for the aouls, and that the tribes had arrived two
days ago. We were advised to ride to the second river, and follow
its banks to the plain ; this would take us to their encampment,
and within three hours' ride of the aoul. Their chief intended
visiting it soon, to get a supply of horses.
These • fellows remained with us till moming, when they de
parted for their den of thieves, and we to seek our friend. The

4-30 MAGNIFICENT VIEW.
route they had pointed out led us over the mountains, where from
one point we had a magnificent view of Bogda Oola, with its
rocks, snow, and glaciers. It is, indeed, a stupendous mass, and
the inhabitants of these regions have a saying "that it hides both
the sun and the moon." As the sun goes down the shadow ex
tends a long distance over the steppe. After sketching this won
derful scene, I rode on, and descended to the first river, which
we crossed -with great difficulty. The torrent is very rapid, and
rolls over large blocks of stone. We now began to ascend the
last mountain, from which we expected to see the aoul and tribe
of Oui-jass.
In many parts this was ragged, steep, and difficult to ride over,
and it was not till long after mid-day that we reached the summit,
consisting of a mass of dark purple slate, among which there was
very little vegetation. The view from this high ridge extended
aoross the vast steppe to the Tangnou Blountains, but these were
lost in haze. The plain was spread out like a map, on whioh I
counted fourteen lakes, some of them of large dimensions. I saw
many of the streams running along the steppe like lines of silver.
Not far from one of the lakes I observed the aoul of Oui-jass,
whioh made us feel quite at home. The descent was more diffi
cult, and much of it had to be done on foot; but at last we reaohed
the robbers' encampment, from which we rode soon to the plain.
The Kirghis were delighted ; our horses were put into a good
speed, and shortly after sunset Oui-jass again welcomed me to his
encampment. The evening was spent by the Kirghis relating all that had
happened on the journey, including an account of Syren's inten
tion to visit them early. While delivering the presents from
Sultan Sabeck and his messages, I learned the object of the
missions from Baspasihan and my host. A plan had been pro
posed for an attack upon Koubaldos by their united forces, to
strip him of his plunder, and kill or cany off his people, break
up his aoul, and, if he escaped, to render him powerless for a
long time to come. My -visit had been a God-send, and thus their
friendly assistance is explained. Sultan Sabeck had named the
twenty-seventh day after our departure from his aoul for the attack
on the robber-chief.
Oui-jass made me very liberal offers of spoil if I would remain

DANGEROUS MORASSES. — AQUATIC BIRDS. 431
with my men and aid them in their expedition, saying that, with
our assistance, few of the robbers should be left alive, as our rifies
would do most of the execution. I, however, declined the honor
of joining in the anticipated massacre. Early in the morning
our own horses, which were left to enjoy the rich pastures of my
host, were brought fresh and in good condition for a journey;
nevertheless, Oui-jass insisted on sending us to Baspasihan on his
own horses, for the service I had rendered by obtaining from
the robbers a knowledge of their intention to plunder him, and
expressed his deep regret that we had not shot the seven men
instead of the dogs.
About two hours after sunrise I exchanged salutations with my
friend and departed. Our route was in a northwesterly direction,
toward one of the lower ranges, running nearly parallel with the
Syan-shan. The Bogda Oola rose up in all his sublime grandeur,
and the volcanic peak, Pe-shan, with dark crags jutting out of
the snow, was seen still farther *o the west, while beyond these a
long line of snow-capped summits receded into distance. On our
ride we crossed several streams which find their way down to the
plain ; some are lost in the sands, while others form lakes and
marshes, extending for fifty or sixty versts to the east up to a
chain of hills, which renders travelling over this country extremely
dangerous. I and two of my men had a narrow escape ; for, being
a little in advance of our Kirghis guides, we rode on to one of
these morasses, believing we could cross. Having gone about ten
paces from the hard ground, we suddenly perceived the surface
begin to move like waves on a lake, extending far from where we
stood. We instantly turned our horses gently round, reached
the solid ground, and were thankful for our escape. The Kirghis
said that, had we gone a few steps farther, the turf would have
broken, when we should have sunk to risk no more, assuring me
that they frequently lose horses and camels in these places. I
now determined that the men sent by Oui-jass should be our
guides through this dangerous labyrinth of reeds and quagmires.
On these lakes there were thousands of aquatic birds — pelicans,
swans, cranes (a beautiful black variety), fiamingoes, with their
crimson plumage; geese, ducks, and divers; besides millions of
musquitoes, which rendered the ride rather disagreeable. We
had not been long winding our way among the reeds when the

432 A FATAL BATTLE-FIELD.
dogs gave mouth a short distance in front. Riding to the place,
we observed, by the fresh rooting in the ground, that a herd of
wild boars had been disturbed, and had escaped into the high
reeds. We found these animals very numerous in the swamps,
but to follow them into the reeds was impossible. The dogs were
kept back, and each opening in the reeds examined, but not a
boar was seen, although we, had heard them.
One of the Kalmucks was riding about a hundred yards distant
along the edge of some reeds, when he suddenly called out. We
thought he had found a herd, but on reaching him he pointed to
the soft ground, covered with footprints and gore, where a terrible
conflict had evidently taken place. At flrst we thought the boars
had been fighting, but a closer inspection showed us that one had
been measuring his strength with a more formidable foe — a tiger I
whose footprints were stamped around the field of battle. The
boar had been slain and carried off : it was "easy to trace the
crimson track/ which led toward a mass of high reeds, into which
the tiger had carried his prey. A well-trodden path or reedy
tunnel formed the approach to this lair, which was about two feet
six inches wide, and three feet and a half high, thickly matted
over into an arch. The tiger had put down his burden at the
entrance of this covered way, the red marks being distinctly
visible. The men thought the battle had been fought three or
four days ago ; from this they concluded that a tigress and her
cubs were in their den not far off; and, in confirmation of their
opinion, the dogs barked furiously. In a conflict with robbers
none would have shrunk, however unequal the contest ; but not
one of us had courage to enter this place, and seek honor "at the
tiger's mouth." The Kirghis proposed setting fire to the reeds ;
but in such a labyrinth it might have been fatal to ourselves, so
we left the brutes in peace. During our ride we found a tiger's
track in several places ; but there is so much shelter it is impos
sible to hunt him here. The Kirghis say that, wherever the wild
boars are numerous, there the tiger takes up his abode, as he is
fond of pork.
Having passed the swamp, we ascended the high hills, which
afforded me a -view over this place of torment and ague. In length
it extends about sixty versts, and is twenty-five in breadth, and
still farther to the east there is a lake of large dimensions. About

A NIGHT ALARM. 433
an hour before sunset we had crossed the mountains, and reached
the banks of a thickly-wooded river, running and leaping over
rocks iu nume.rous waterfalls. The valley was covered with rich
grass, and our guide proposed to encamp : he thought it possible
we might find the tiger in the valley, as they often descend to the
plains and destroy the horses. While the anangements for sleep
ing were being made, and the supper cooked, four of us started up
the valley, and four others down the bank of the stream, in search
of the animal, but after a long ramble we returned to the camp at
dusk, without finding any trace of him. Those who descended
the valley were more fortunate : they had found his track and the
remains of a stag on which he had dined the day before. They
also brought back a buck, shot by a Kalmuck ; from this we ex
pected some sport in the morning. The men made a glorious
feast, cooking and broiling venison till a late hour, when a large
fire was made, and the horses picketed close to us. Two Kal
mucks mounted guard with their rifles, attended by two Kirghis.
It was thought the tiger might pay us a visit ; nevertheless, after
the watch was set, all the rest of our party were soon asleep.
During the early part of the night we remained quiet till near
the end of the third watch, when there was a great commotion.
The dogs had frequently growled, which made the men on duty
keep a sharp look-out ; at last there was a burst of furious bark
ing. The horses began to snort and plunge, and tried to break
loose, when every man was on his feet in a minute. Before we
could seize our rifles, two shots were fired by the sentinels, which
were followed by a savage growl, and the Kirghis threw blazing
branches at the intruder. The Kalmucks had seen the glaring
eyeballs of some animal crouching in the grass. For a short time
the dogs continued to bark, and then all became still, whioh as
sured us that our visitor had retired. On looking at my watch,
I saw that iu less than two hours we should have daylight : this
induced me to sit up, and Tchuok-a-boi followed my example.
Before sunrise all were in motion, preparing for our journey,
when several of the Cossacks and Kalmucks examined tte grass,
and found that a large animal had crept along to within fifteen
paces of our horses. They also observed that he had been wounded,
there being marks of the crimson dye on the grass. Soon after
this we started down the valley, with our rifles ready for slaughter,
28

434 SEARCH FOR BASPASIHAN.
but had not ridden more than two hours when we reached a
spot where the valley narrowed into a rugged gorge, with high
precipices on each side. The river had now become a roaring
torrent, and it was with considerable difficulty that we rode along
the ledges of rocks overhanging the boiling flood. At last we
reached a point which barred our farther progress, where huge
masses of rock had fallen, and were piled up so high that it was
impossible to get our horses over. We decided that a party
should return and cross the mountain with the horses, while five
other men and myself should descend the ravine on foot, and meet
them on the steppe. This was soon found to be impossible ; for,
on climbing over the fallen rocks at great personal risk, we dis
covered that the torrent washed the foot of a perpendicular pre
cipice seven or eight hundred feet high.
By this time the men with the horses were on their way and
far out of hearing; we therefore turned back and ascended one of
the nanow ravines. This was also difficult, but, after an hour's
climbing, we reached the ridge and observed our horses three
versts distant, trotting toward the steppe. Our route was along
the ridge, and we shortly had a splendid view over the steppe.
Several streams were winding their course along the plain, some
lost in morasses, and others fed several large lakes. Nowhere
could I see anything to indicate the aoul of Baspasihan. A walk
of near four hours brought us to the foot of the mountain, where
our horses had been some time waiting our arrival. It was past
midday when we forded the river and put our steeds into a gallop.
Our guide was anxious to reach some low hills before dusk, whioh
we saw far in the distance, as he expected to find an aoul there.
After a hard ride of more than four hours we were at the hills,
but no cMul could be seen in any direction. It was now getting
dusk and time to encamp. Presently we found a suitable place
on the bank of a small stream, where we passed the night undis
turbed. Early in the moraing, and before the sun had tipped the snowy
peaks of the Syan-shan, we were crossing the hills in search of
Kirghis. After a ride of four hours we came upon a herd
of camels and horses in one of the valleys, and saw thousands of
sheep and goats feeding on the opposite ridges. In a short time
our Kirghis met their brother herdsmen, very much gratified at

SULTAN BA.SPASIUAN. 435
having reached their homes. W^e were not long reaching tho
aoul, where all were delighted to see us. The sultan received
me with great kindness, and the yourt was soon filled with tho
heads of his tribe, listening to the accounts the Kirghis gave of
the journey. When the presents from Sultan Sabeck were placed
before Baspasihan, he looked upon the rich silks and kalats with
much pleasure. But when the Kirghis announced that Sultan
Sabeck had named the time for the attack on Koubaldos, there
was a shout of defiance and savage satisfaction, which boded no
good to Koubaldos. My host made several efforts to induce me
to remain and join in the enterprise, but, in order to avoid all
farther importunity on this subject, I determined to depart in
the morning.
My next point was Kessil-bach, not two days' journey to the
northward, and soon after breakfast my host had horses and men
ready to take us to the lake. They were to remain there as long
as I wished, and then accompany me to the Tchemoy-Irtisch. I
accepted this act of kindness with pleasure, received the parting
salutation, and rode away, leaving many friends among this tribe.
To gain the esteem of the Kirghis a man raust be a daring rider.
If he have a quick eye and an unerring hand with his rifie, they
will respect and obey him; but if he once fiinch at any danger,
or show fear, he is lost.
Our route was over low hills covered with rich pastures, on
whioh large herds were feeding; these we soon left behind, and
entered a sandy steppe. After a dreary ride, we arrived on the
evening of the second day at a stony ridge, from the summit of
whioh we beheld the lake. Kessil-bach-Noor is about one hun
dred versts long, and in some parts twenty to thirty versts broad.
It has a flat shore to the southwest, and has hills on the north
east side. There are extensive beds of reeds and bulrashes
growing on many parts of its shores, with some good pastures ;
but we found no Kirghis. A little before sunset we encamped
on the bank of a small stream a few versts from the western end
of the lake, where we passed the night in quiet.
Early in the morning I made two sketches, then continued my
ride in a northeasterly direction toward the Tchernoy-lrtisch,
which has its source among some low hills in the region where the
fabulous Great Altai is placed on all the maps of Asia. A range of

436 THE TCHERNOY-IRTISCH.
hills extends to the northwest, and joins the offshoots of the Altai.
We crossed several hills, some almost without vegetation, while
many of the valleys were sandy and sterile. From some of these
ridges we had an extensive view to the southwest, in which direc
tion I saw the picturesque summits of the Barluok Blountains,
while to the west rose the ragged crests of the Tarbogatai. Late
in the afternoon we reaohed the river, where it was running over
a rocky bed fringed on eaeh side with small trees and bushes.
After following its course for seven or eight versts, we discovered
an aoul at a few versts distance, in one of the valleys. We very
soon reached the herdsmen, who told us it belonged to Sultan
Dulembie : the Kirghis were delighted, as he was their master's
friend. One of Baspasihan's Kirghis and a herdsman went off at
a gallop to announce my arrival, nor was it long before I saw a
party of Kirghis gallopping to meet me ; they conducted me to the
yourt of Dulembie, whom I found standing at the door of his
dwelling ready to give me a welcome. He was an old raan, with
a short gray beard, a ruddy complexion, and friendly expression
of countenance. There was no remarkable difference in the
dwellings or costume from those of the other sultans I had
visited. A large bowl of koumis was handed to me. I drank a
little as a compliment to his brewing, and then gave the bowl to
a Cossaok, who speedily put the contents under his belt. In due
course tea and supper were served, when I made an excellent
repast. To my inquiries concerning our route to the Barluok
Mountains and the Tarbo_atai, the sultan said I could cross the
steppe and reach the Barluok in nine days, and he promised to
give me Kirghis guides to the aoul of Sultan Ishonao Khan,
whioh we should reach in flve days.
The tirae h;.d now arrived when I must part with my brave
Kalmucks, who had been my faithful companions through many
a day of hard toil, and in some dangers. Their route was north
to their homes in the Altai, which they would reach in eight or
ten days, while mine was southwest, through the country of the
ancient Sungarians. Having supplied them with a good store of
ammunition, I had.no fear for their safety; and in the morning,
after shaking hands and expressing mutual regret, we turned our
horses and rode in opposite direotions. Bly route was over low
hills covered with grass, that extended about twenty versts ; then

PARTING FROM THE KALMUCKS. 437
we descended to the plain, which we found a sandy desert, over
which the Kirghis proposed to ride fast. Sultan Dulembie had
sent to accompany me eight of his men, well mounted and armed
with battle-axes ; therefore, with the three Cossacks and myself,
we still formed a strong party. The new-comers were wild-look
ing fellows, evidently ready either for fight or plunder.

CHAPTER XXVII.
THE SULTANS OF THE. STEPPE.

After a rapid gallop over the dreary waste, late in the after
noon of the fifth day, after having suffered much for water, we
reached the aoul of Sultan Ishonao Khan, who gave me a friendly
reception. He was stout, with strongly-marked Kalmuck fea
tures, and as he claimed his descent from Genghis Khan, the owl's
feather hung from the top of his cap : his costume was of Chinese
silk, richly embroidered. About fifty versts to the southward of
this aoul rise the Barluok Mountains, lying between the Tarbo
gatai and the Alatou Mountains, and eastward of the Ala-kool, a
small rocky chain extending about sixty versts from east to west ;
its breadth is about twenty-five versts, and the highest summit is
three thousand feet above the plain. On the lower slopes there is
pasturage, but the upper parts are bare rocks. From this aoul
my route was westward, over a sandy steppe. I obtained horses
from the sultan, and eight of his Kirghis to be my companions to
the Tarbogatai — a four, or perhaps six days' journey. Soon after
daylight I left my host, and shortly his pastures, when we entered
upon the dreary waste, and rode over sandy hills and valleys, on
which not a blade of grass was growing. On many parts there
was a thick saline incrustation, which was thrown up in dust by
our horses' feet, filling our mouths with its' bitter particles, and
causing intolerable thirst. The Kirghis said we should have
great difficulty in finding fresh water, as all the streams were
dried up.
Again the Kirghis were armed — I could not understand for

438 LEAVE the .sultan.
what reason, as we were traversing a desert where no man can
dwell. They said we should have to travel near the worst region in
the whole steppes, as the country to the east of the Ala-kool is
inhabited by large bands of robbers, whom they called Byjagat :
these are composed of Kirghis from the different hordes who have
escaped after committing great crimes, and Chinese convicts from
the penal settlements on the Ila. They live in security in thia
region, and carry on their depredations with impunity. The Kir
ghis kept a sharp look-out as we rode along, evidently expecting to
see smoke or some other indication of their encampments. Hour
after hour passed, and still I rode over the same saline plain ;
at length our horses began to flag for want of water, of which not
a drop could be seen. The sun was now descending fast below a
sandy ridge a short distance in front of us. On reaching the top
of this, we were overjoyed by the sight of a lake stretching
eight or ten versts across the steppe, and were not long in reaching
it. Here were grass and water, whioh made the eyes of man and
horse sparkle with delight. A Cossack sprung from his horse
and stooped to drink ; but the liquid had scarcely touched his
parched lips when he rose and exclaimed " Gorkie" — bitter. This
w.as a terrible blow ; the horses, however, drank the water with
great zest. The Kirghis declared it was impossible to proceed
farther, as we should find no other pastures. I now tasted the
water and found it brackish ; still, as no other was attainable,
ordering some to be boiled, I made tea, which turned the water
into a milky-looking fluid, exceedingly disagreeable to drink.
We left this bitter lake with the first gray dawn, going to the
northwest, still over the sandy desert, where no fresh water can
be found. Late on the evening of the fifth day we reached the
river Eremil, to the infinite gratification of both man and beast,
for tea made with stinking brackish water is poor fare after a hard
day's ride. Having slept and refreshed ourselves and horses, we
proceeded onward, and night brought us to the Tarbogatai, along
which we must continue our journey, passing about ten versts to
the north of Tchoubachack, a Chinese town, in which Russia has,
since this period, established a consul, and now carries on a con
siderable trade with the inhabitants of his Celestial majesty. We
passed the Chinese pickets about noon on the second day, and
reached a rocky valley just as the sun was setting behind a large
barrow, which gave to the scene a peculiar and striking effect.

TCHOUBACHACK. 439
After fording a mountain torrent at considerable risk, just above
the falls, we encamped for the night at its base. It is about one
hundred and fifty feet high, steep, and regular in ite form. I as
cended to the top, and found the tomb of a Kirghis sultan, with
many of those of his followers around him. The tumulus has been
thrown up by a people of whom we have no trace ; and in thia
part of Asia such ancient works are numerous.
Many of the rocks in this valley are a deep red jasper ; and
one mountain, a little to the north, possesses a bright crimson
color, whioh, when seen lit up by the setting sun, has a brilliant
effect. Early in the inorning we began our ride to the south,
crossing low ridges, which extended far down toward the plain.
A little before dusk we observed, muoh to our satisfaction, a large
herd of horses feeding on the grassy slopes; nor were we long in
reaching the aoul, whioh we found belonged to Sultan Iamantuck,
and a most excellent man I found him. He had arrived here
three days before, and was now encamped near the place where
his forefathers were buried. High conical tombs of sun-burnt
bricks were erected over their ashes, and once every year the sul
tan and his tribe visit this spot, remaining eight or ten days. Be
low are the portraits of the sultan, his daughter, and his son, who
is making a communication to his father, which is always done on
the knees.
The sultan and his family are by far the most intelligent people
I have met with in this part of Asia. The Kirghis from the
Gobi Steppe returned to their aoul, and I procured eight other
Kirghis and horses from the sultan to be my companions toward
the Ala-kool. After spending a day at the sultan's aoul we left,
crossing the plain to the south. A ride of two hours carried us
out of the pastures, and we entered upon a sandy steppe. We
were now riding directly toward the Alatou (Variegated Moun
tain), and saw the snowy summits of the Acton (White Moun
tain), which forms the crest of the chain, some of whose peaks
rise fiurteen thousand or fifteen thousand feet above the sea.
We came upon several rocky ridges which rise out of the steppe,
several of them three hundred feet high. About noon I rode to
the summit of one of these, and got my first peep at the Ala-
kool, still very far away. No aoul was within the range of our
vision, and the Kirghis were anxious to ride on, as neither water

440

SULTAN IAMANTUCK.

Sm.TAH lAMANTUOS AND FAUILT.

nor grass could be obtained on this inhospitable soil. The only
li-ving things we found were scorpions and tarantulas — bad food
for a dinner. We passed several groups of ancient tombs, which
induced me to believe that this steppe had once afforded pastur
age for large herds of cattle, when inhabited by a raoe who prob
ably irrigated the soil. It was near sunset when a white
smoke was seen curling up beyond a low sandy hill ; on gaining
the top of whioh we saw a small stream of water, with grass
covering a little valley, with plenty of cattle feeding thereon. A
ride of half an hour brought us to the aoul, where we caused
much alarm. The Kirghis were soon assured that we were not
robbers ; then the sheep was cooked, and the feast spread before
us, to which every one did ample justice.
Before leaving we were informed that it would take a day to
ride to the Ala-kool ; also that we should have some broad and
deep places to swim in crossing between the large and small Ala-
kool. It was deemed desirable to take two men with us from thia

THE TARSAKHAN. 441
aoul, wbo knew the track, as without them the journey would be
difficult and dangerous in such a labyrinth of reeds and bulrashes.
We were soon on a sandy plain, into which the horses sunk deep,
whioh rendered our ride very tedious.
Late in the evening we found a small aoul on the bank of a
little river, and here the Kirghis proposed that we should stop the
night. Early in the morning we were on our way ; about mid
day we reached the Tarsakhan, a very deep, rapid, and dangerous
stream, flowing between high sandy banks, rushing past like a tor
rent. The great danger was that the horse, when swimming,
would be carried below the path, and then there was no chance
for man or horse. As the passage could only be accomplished by
one person at a time, a Kirghis went first, then a Cossack, and
both got over well; I followed, then came the others, and all
landed safely. The Kirghis say that accidents often happen here,
when both man and horse are drowned ; nevertheless, these people
never attempt to make a bridge.
Soon after crossing the river we skirted the edge of a bed of
reeds for several versts, and while riding on I noticed a cloud of
sand rising high into the air ; but this was so common an occur
rence that I paid no attention to the matter till we passed the bed
of reeds, when we had a view over the steppe for fifty or sixty
versts. I now saw that a dense black mass, of fearful appearance,
was rolling straight toward us, extending about a verst in width.
The moment the Kirghis beheld it, in the greatest alarm they
turned their horses and gallopped back under the shelter of the
reeds ; I and the Cossacks stood watching it approach for a few
minutes, and then made for the shelter. The Kirghis led the
horses into the cover, securing them fast, and urged me to lie
down. It was not long before we heard the roar of the hurricane ;
on it came, obscuring the sun, and casting a deep gloomy shade
over the country. In a few minutes a terrific blast rashed by,
laying the reeds and bulrashes flat over us. To look up was im
possible : we were shrouded in a thick cloud of dust. In five
minutes the storm passed, and then I saw that we had only been
visited by the edge of the cloud, as it rolled on with fearful rapid
ity. Fortunately, we were not caught on the steppe, or every
man and animal would have perished. As it went off into the
distance it looked like a dense black cloud.
After this escape from wind we were soon on the bank of the

442

LAKE ALA-KOOL.

Yeljin-sa-gasb, a broad and deep stream, over which we must
swim our horses. We undressed and took off our saddles; my
clothing, and my sketches and fire-arms, were carried over on the
heads of the Kirghis, some of whom swam their horses four and
five times across the river. Between the lakes we had three deep
rivers to pass. This being accomplished, we reached the shore
of the large Ala-kool, which is about sixty versts in length and
twenty-five in width, with a small rocky island, that rises about
one hundred feet out of the water, standing at a distance of two
versts from the north shore. A narrow ledge of rocks runs far
out into the lake, and nearly joins the island. About ten versts
from each end of the lake, narrow reefs of rock ran aoross from
one shore to the other, over which it is possible to pass. Eight
rivers empty their contents into this lake, which has no outiet,
and the water is carried off by evaporation. In summer it is
intensely hot : we had 45° on the sandy steppe extending along
the south shore.
Baron Humboldt has stated that a volcano exists on an island
in the Ala-kool — so the baron had been informed by Tartar mer
chants who cross the steppe with the caravans. But no volcano
has ever been in action in this region ; the one nearest to this
place is that shown on my map in the Gobi Desert, and Pe-shan I
in the Syan-shan. In all my wanderings in the Karatou, Alatou,
and Actou, I did not discover one crater.
We now turned toward the west in search of the aoul of Sultan
Beck, the largest man and most wealthy Kirghis in the steppes.
He has ten thousand horses, and camels, oxen, and sheep in pro
portion to this vast herd. It was late in the evening when we
found him : perhaps we disturbed his slumbers, and by so doing
ruffied his temper, as he was exceedingly uncivil, and sent us a
sheep that was diseased. This was quickly returned to him with
my compliments, and a message stating that we did not eat such
food, nor did we require anything from him. I desired the Cos
sack to say that he was the first sultan who had behaved so un
gentlemanly toward me, and that, notwithstanding his large body,
he had the heart of a mouse. This roused him into a fury, and
ho ordered us away, threatening that if we did not move instantly
his men should drive us into the lake. The Cossack replied that
if either he or any of his men came near our camp, we would shoot
them ; which having said, he left the yourt, and told us what had

SULTAN beck's VISIT. 445
passed. Itwas not long before we perceive! two girls coming
toward us leading a sheep, whioh the sultan had sent, begging me
to accept it, as it was one of the best in his flock : they assured
me that he wished to pay me a visit, had offered to let me stay as
long as I liked, and had promised to give me men and horses
when I left.
His mutton having been accepted, and a message returned say
ing I should be glad to receive him, it was not long before we saw
his huge bulk approaching our camp. He saluted me by touch
ing the chest in the usual manner, after which we sat down and
became friends. He drank tea with me, and remained to partake
of his own mutton ; and while this was preparing, he ordered his
poet to sing for us. The man obeyed, and chanted forth songs,
describing the prowess and successful plundering expeditions of
my host and his ancestors, which called forth thunders of applause
from the tribe. After spending more than two hours in the com
pany of the sultan and his bard, we separated on friendly terms.
Next morning before starting I sketched Sultan Beck and his
family. He is feeding his bearooote, hunting with the king of
birds being his favorite sport. Bearly in the forenoon I said .
Aman-bul and departed, attended by ten of the sultan's men;
good horses had also been provided.
From this aoul our route was in a southwesterly direction,
about twenty versts from the foot of the Karatou, a chain of
mountains rising abruptly from the steppe. They are composed
chiefly of a dark purple slate, are destitute of vegetation, and in
no part rise to more than six thousand feet; but there are several
magnificent gorges here, through which the rivers find their way
to the steppe. Again we had to ride over a sandy plain, stretch
ing westward to the shores of the Lake Tengiz ; and after a two
days' journey found the Kirghis more numerous. Their uouls
and dwellings resemble each other so muoh that it would be repe
tition to describe them.
On the fourth day after leaving Sultan Beck's aoul we were in
search of Sultan Boulania. If the first was the largest man in
the steppe, the one I was now seeking was reported to be by far
the most enlightened and talented aniong the Kirghis. Having
slept the night at an aoul on the River Lepsou, the inhabitants
told me that we should find the sultan's aoul a two days' journey
up the river; and soon after daylight we left these people, and

446

SULTAN BOULANIA.

rode in the direction indicated. The Lepsou is a large stream,
running between high sandy banks, in some parts extending into
broad shallow pools covered with reeds and bulrushes, while in
others it has a rapid current. W^e presently reached undulating
sandy hills, into which our horses sunk deep at every step, and
this materially retarded our progress. By noon we had not tra
velled more than twenty versts, when we came upon a plain
covered with hundreds of sandy mounds : it was, indeed, a per
fect labyrinth. As we were winding our way through these hil
locks, we met a party of Kirghis armed with rifles, the advance
guard of the sultan, who was following at a short distance. We
soon met, when he invited me to accompany him to his aoul.
A few years before the sultan had visited the Governor-General
of Westem Siberia, who had most kindly given me a letter recom
mending me to his care. It was written in the Tartar language,
which the Mulla oould not read. When the contents had been
explained to Boulania, he ordered the Mulla to write me a pass
port whioh would be respected in the middle horde; it would also
aid me -with two of the sultans in the great horde. While I re
mained at the aoul I sketched a portrait of this sultan.

BDI-TAN BOULANIA.

At daylight we left, attended by ten of the sultan's Kirghis,
who had orders to escort me to the next aoul, which we found.

A BEAUTIFUL CONTRAST. 447
after a long ride, just at nightfall. The country we now travelled
was covered with good grass, and thousands of horses were feed
ing on these vast plains. During the journey I got several good
views of the Alatou, with the high snowy peaks of the Actou
shooting far up into the sky. When seen from these plains,
which stretch out like a sea, the chain has a most iraposing effect.
The yellowish green of the grass, and the red and orange color
of the sand, extending along the base of the Karatou, form a
beautiful contrast with the deep purple rocks, while above these
the high ridges of the Alatou are seen receding in almost every
shade of color, their misty summits overtopped by the snow and
glaciers of the Actou. Here I found inestimable studies of the
mountain scenery, and, I hope, profited by the opportunity. There
are seven rivers running from the Alatou down the steppe, and
three find their way to the Lake Tengiz ; the others are lost in
the sands of the steppe, on which they form extensive and dan
gerous morasses.
There are many, and some very large tombs scattered over the
steppe, built at different periods and by different races. The great
tumuli are the most ancient. One of these was composed of
stone ; it is a circle of three hundred and sixty-four feet in dia
meter, forming a dome-like mound thirty-three feet high. The
stones have been rounded in the Lepsou, and were brought from
that river, which runs through the valley about eight versts dis
tant. None exceeded twelve inches in diameter, but most of them
were smaller. To whom this tomb belongs the Kirghis have not
even a tradition ; they attribute all such works to demons, and say
their master Shaitan has been the chief director. Another kind
of tomb, of more recent date, is circular on its plan. I examined
one which was twenty-five feet in diameter, with walls of stone
four feet thick. It was carried up to the height of fifty feet,
taking the form of a blast-furnace, with an aperture at top, and
an opening on the side two feet square and four feet from the
ground. Through this I obtained access to the interior, where I
found two graves covered with large blocks of stone, proving be
yond all doubt that the superstructure has been erected over them.
The Kirghis assured me that these were built by the people who
inhabited the country before the Kalmucks. The third kind,
which they say were built by Timour Khan and his race, are of

448

SULTAN ALIE IHOLDI.

sunburnt bricks, and in design possess a Blohammedan character;
even now some of these are in excellent preservation.
Not far from several tombs I found Sultan Alio Iholdi, a dis
tinguished man, who claims his descent from Timour Khan; in
deed, his son bears his name, as though destined to march the
wild men of these regions across the Himalaya, like his ancestor.
Below is a sketch of the sultan and his family; behind him stands
the chair of state, which is carried before him on a camel when

BULTAN ALIE IHOLDL

the aoul is removed from one spot to another. The plumes of
peacock's feathers are a mark of great distinction among these
people. The sultana is sitting on a pile of carpets, and the son
behind the great iron caldron, standing on an iron frame, in which
the sheep are cooked.
After a night at the sultan's aoul Boulania's men returned, and
we proceeded onward with others obtained frora ray host. V/e
shortly entered upon a sterile plain extending to Lake Tengiz.
The Kirghis declared that only on the banks of the streams should
we find pasturage. This was the great horde, and the eountry
had a most desolate appearance. We were approaching the western
end of the Karatou, which descended in many low hills down
to the plain. Having passed these, we continued our journey

SULTAN SOUK. 449
nearly due west, and rode over several deep and troublesome
morasses. In the evening we encamped on the bank of a small
stream, where we found good pasturage for our horses. We had
four days of a most uninteresting journey, and arrived on the
afternoon of the fifth at the aoul of Sultan Souk. He and his
family are figured in the frontispiece. A greater robber could not
be found in the steppe; and though at this time, being eighty yeara
of age, he could not join in the barantas, many were planned by
him. On another occasion, when I was staying at his aoul, some
Kirghis came from the middle horde to beg of him to give up their
wives and children, who had been carried off by his banditti — they
formed part of his share of the plunder — but the old scoundrel
would not restore one. He received a pension from the Russian
emperor, sold his country, and deceived his imperial majesty. In
one of his barantas a battle-axe had cut his nose and rendered it
crooked; and when I was sketching him, he desired me not to
copy his present nose, but put in a proper one, or the emperor
would discover his plundering habits. When sitting for his por
trait, he had on a scarlet coat, a gold medal, and a sabre sent him
by Alexander the First, of which he was wonderfully proud.
After leaving the sultan's aoul, accompanied by himself and
nine of his people, we turned to the south, ascending the first
ridges of the Alatou. On first approaching them they appear low
hills in comparison with the stupendous masses that rise above
them, and are cut through by numerous deep and rocky ravines,
in which foaming torrents were rushing down to the plain. On
reaching the first summit I saw a large tumulus, built of rough
stone, on which many staves were standing, decorated with horse
tails, tufts of long hair, and sraall pieces of silk that fluttered in
the breeze. The Kirghis hold this tomb in great veneration, and
have a tradition that it is the grave of a mighty Kalmuck, who
ruled over his people with so much justice that all were happy.
They believe that he still watches over those who inhabit his
kingdom. At this place, after adding an offering. Sultan Souk
gave me the usual salutation, and departed to visit some friends,
a two days' journey over the steppe, where a large party were to
assemble for horse-racing and other sports.
Leaving the old tomb, we travelled to the south over a table
land, from which rose the high summits of the Alatou. A ride of
a few hours brought us to the River Balicty, which crosses the
29

450 VIEW OF THE ACTOU.
plateau in a deep rocky gorge, into whioh we had great difficulty
in descending. In the bottom, along the bank of the stream,
poplars of great size were growing; also birches, aspens, and several
flowering shrubs. Here were a number of birds — some with beau
tiful green plumage on the neck and breast, shaded into brown on
the back and tail; others with black heads, a deep crimson on the
neck and throat, and the rest of the body a bluish gray. Pigeons
were also numerous. Having sketched a view looking up the
gorge to the snowy peaks of the Actou, I continued my ride, and
before evening reached a large rent in the mountains, and en
camped. Early next morning we began to ascend the Alatou by
this ravine, in which runs the " Tchim-Boulac" (pure spring). This
was, indeed, a wild place to ride up, and we had often to find our
way along ledges of rock two and three hundred feet above the
torrent. In some places the water rested in deep pools, then it
leaped over two or three falls, and rushed down the gorge with a
mighty roar.
A ride of ten hours brought us to the spot. The rocks on the
left are porphyry of a deep red shading into brown, with flecks
and veins of white. Their coloring, as well aa that of many
others found during my journey, is so exceedingly vivid, that
the fidelity of my pictures would have been doubted had I re-
t-umed without specimens. The singular columnar mass in the
centre is basalt, and the precipices to the right are slate and
jasper. Beyond the large rock overhanging the fall it was im
possible to proceed on horseback. I, however, succeeded in
ascending a ravine on foot, and reached the top of the high crags,
whence I had a splendid view of the Actou. Having transferred
this scene to my paper, we descended, and retraced our steps
down the gorge. We found returning much more difficult than
going up, but at length reached a ravine running to the west,
which enabled us to ascend the mountain above.
From this place we crossed a high ridge, and continued our
ride toward the Actou, entering onc of the upper valleys that was
rich in grass ; a good pasture and dwarf trees grow in the ravines.
This valley is far too high for the Kirghis to visit with their
fiocks, and too difficult to approach. The grass, therefore, is only
cropped by deer, wild goats, and wild sheep ; we observed several
of the latter, but at a great distance, for they are exceedingly

ANCIENT CANALS.— A ROBBER FEAST. 451
difficult to approach. Our encampment was in a beautiful spot,
under the shelter of high granite rocks ; a carpet of thick grass,
with a little stream in front fretting and bubbling on its course,
added muoh to its attraction, while to the south rose the high
peaks near the source of the rapid river Tschad-jsoha.
During a ride of ten days I made many sketches of the sublime
scenery in these mountain regions, each view possessing some
remarkable feature. I had now reached the western end of the
Alatou, and turned toward the south, exploring several valleys.
On the Terric-sou I found a large tribe of Kirghis in their sum
mer pastures. The valley is broad and rich in grass, and was
now covered with herds of horses, camels, and other cattle. Hero
there are many tumuli, some of them large, which are held in
great veneration by the inhabitants. From their numbers, I am
induced to believe that at one period this country has been densely
populated. I also met with numerous canals, which had been
formed by these ancient people to convey water from the moun
tains to irrigate the land ; and some display considerable engineer
ing skill. They have not been executed by a pastoral people like
the present race. There are several large earth-works, which have
formed their fortified camps or settlements. The Kirghis look
upon them with dread, under the belief that they have been con
structed by Shaitan and his legions.
Shortly after our arrival at the aoul on the Terric-sou a Tartar
merchant came and invited me to drink tea at his yourt. He was
bartering his wares with the Kirghis for their cattle, which he
takes to China, returning again with Chinese produce. Every
sultan and chief has his merchant, as well as his mulla, or priest,
and both are very important personages in the tribe. The men
had just returned from a successful baranta, and were constantly
drinking and feasting. It was evidently considered a great event,
and the plunder must have been enormous ; indeed, the merchant
said that they had carried off near two thousand horses and four
hundred camels, besides many men, women, and children, whom
they would keep as slaves. It had, however, cost them several
lives, for two yourts were pointed out to me where the killed wero
then lying.
We were not sorry to leave a people among whom robbery,
murder, and dissipation are carried on with impunity. They
expect a retaliation as soon as the tribes who have been plundered

452 FINE VIEWS.
can muster a sufficient force; thus the entire population is con
stantly at war. Leaving the aoul early, we arrived about midday
at the River Cora, whioh we crossed, and half an hour brought
us to the Tschad-jscha, where we had yourts built in avery pretty
spot close to the water. After tea I began sketching where the
river had cut a channel through a high granite mountain. With
considerable difficulty I scrambled through this great gorge, and
obtained a fine view of the snow mountains towering many thou
sand feet above me, and apparently near, yet they are so steep
and rooky that it is impossible to ascend them. In the lower part
there are many tigers — at least so the Kirghis say — but I did not
see any in my rambles. I observed their footprints, and should
have been glad to have found one within rifle distance.
We ascended a mountain to the north, whioh proved rugged
and difficult, and after riding about an hour gained a mass of rock
jutting out nearly perpendicular down to the river. Over this
point we had to ride, and most frightful it was to look down into
the roaring torrent, nearly a thousand feet below. From this
place we soon gained the summit, which gave me a view over the
plain of the Karatal, and as far as the Lake Tengiz, till it was lost
in a blue mist. Looking southward, we had the high mountains
on the road to, and not far from the Chinese town of Kulja and
the River Ilia. One high summit in this range is called Ugen-
tasch. The people have a tradition that one of the Chinese
emperors lost a golden saddle on this spot, from which this name
is derived. Leaving early the yourt in which I had slept, I
ascended to the east by the mountains whieh run along the south
Bide of the River Tschad-jscha. From the first summit I had a
splendid view of the junction of the three rivers that forra the
Karatal, and of the plain through whioh it runs. The River
Tinteok and the mountains near the Ilia were also visible. Theae
I sketched, then continued my ride along the crest of the ridge;
and in two hours arrived at the snow-line, and found it difficult
to ride where the snow was melting. I had now gained a point
which afforded me a view looking across the valley of the Tschad-
jscha to the Actou, with a torrent rushing down over the rocks
with a frightful noise. I was far above the line of perpetual snow:
to the east the mountain peaks rose in long succession, their white
crests cutting against a sky of a blue so intense, that, ou look
ing up, it appeared almost black. Turning to the west, I saw

SKETCHES ON THE CORA AND ACTOU. 453
Lake Tengiz shining like a plate of polished silver in the blua
and misty distance. Duriug my ride along the crest of the moun
tain I found a great variety of flowers. — iris (blue, purple, yellow,
and a pink one spotted with brown), the peony, cowslip, and
many others. Having finished my sketch, I began to descend
by a new track to the River Tek-el-airik, which afforded me a
scene perfectly new; then a ride of three hours brought me to the
Tek-el-airik, a rapid and roaring torrent. I also crossed the dry
bed of what had been, some ages sinoe, a great river, the course
of which may be traced by the deep channel and rounded stones
that formed it. No water runs in it now, but what has caused
the change it is imposssible to say. The rocks whioh I passed
to-day were principally slate — in some parts porphyry. In the
little ravines I found bushes and several flowering shrubs, while
the ground was covered with flowers up to the snow — indeed, the
white crocus was in many places growing close to the snow.
Bly next ride was to the River Cora; its outlet into the plain
is truly grand, for it runs through a rent in a high mountain chain
where the rocks rise several thousand feet. As I determined to
explore this mighty gorge and sketch the scenery, our horses were
left at the mouth of the chasm, it being impossible to ride up the
gorge, and track there was none. We had to climb over huge
masses of rock ; sorae we were obliged to creep under, they being
muoh too high to climb over ; in other places bushes and plants
were growing in tropioal luxuriance. A scramble of five hours
brought me to a point I could not pass. Here the rocks rose
quite perpendicularly froni the boiling flood, making ascent to the
summit impossible. Nor can this be accomplished either in spring
or summer, while in winter the chasm is so deep in snow — there
being no aoul withiu several hundred versts — that it would be
madness to attempt it at that time : thus these grand and wild
scenes are closed to man, and the tiger remains undisturbed in his
lair, and the bear in his den, and the raaral and wild deer range
the wooded parts unmolested. A very large bearded eagle was
found among these crags, which I shot. After making several
sketches, I returned to the horses and ascended toward the great
plateau between the mountains, where I arrived in the evening
tired and hungry. The dark clouds which had obscured the
mountains cleared off, and gave me a most splendid view of the
Actou, whioh runs up toward the Hia, the snowy peaks shining

4'il TUMULI. — WARM SPRING.
like rubies in the setting sun, while all below them was blue and
purple, with the shades of evening creeping over the lower range.
In the foreground was my yourt, with the Kirghis cooking the
sheep in a large caldron, while the camels and horses were lying
and standing around. Tired as I was, I could not resist sketch
ing the scene, which will ever be impressed upon my memory, as
well as the splendid sunset over the steppe. To the south of this
high plateau the Alatou rises into lofty and picturesque peaks,
many of them robed in eternal snow, while the plateau itself is
covered with fine grass, which affords good pastures for the flocks
of the Kirghis, who will soon take up their quarters here for two
or three weeks. Here I found many tumuli ; one was two hun
dred feet in diameter and forty feet high, with a trench all round
it twelve feet wide and six feet deep. There is a circular hollow on
the top ten feet deep. After examining this great mound, I came
to the conclusion that it has been a fort as well as a torab. Ou
the west side, close to the trench, there are four masses of large
stones standing in circles ; these I suppose to have been the altars
on whioh th° viotims have been sacrificed to the manes of the
dead. But to whom they belonged, or when they were deposited,
no one can state. The Kirghis have a tradition that they belonged
to a nation who (for sorae cause they cannot explain) determined
to put each other to death, and that the mounds were raised to
receive the bodies before the work of destruction began. They
say that the father killed his wife and all his children except
ing the eldest son, whose lot it was to kill his father and then
himself. The name the Kirghis give to this people means self-
killing. After leaving this scene, which called up many melancholy
reflections, we continued our ride toward the River Kopal.
This stream afforded me many beautiful and striking views,
one of which I took at a point where the water leaps over a
precipice into a deep gorge, whence it rushes along with a deaf
ening roar. The singular forms of these rooks, and their brilliant
coloring, render the locality remarkably attractive. I made
several attempts to reach the foot of the fall, but found it impos
sible, owing to the slippery surface of the rocks over which I had
to climb. Not far below this point I discovered the " Arasan,"
or warm spring, whioh rises in a ravine formed of yellow and pur
ple marble of striking beauty. From this point the snow-capped

"byanjarouk." 45&
summits of the Alatou were seen towering up to a great eleva
tion. The spring gushes up among dark marble rocks about four
hundred feet above the bed of the torrent, and has 29° Reaumur
winter and summer. The Kalmucks built a,bath here many ages
ago, which is still resorted to by Tartars, Kirghis, and Chinese.
For scurvy and other cutaneous eruptions, the Kirghis say that
bathing a few times effects a oure ; they consider it holy ground,
and will not allow it to be defiled. Having sketched this rugged
and picturesque spot, I descended the gorge, passing over fallen
rocks and through splendid scenery for about ten versts. We then
crossed the mountains, and from the top of one I got several
beautiful views. A valley, about thirty versts broad, extends
from the foot of the Alatou to the Karatou, while to the east rises
the holy mountain called by the Kirghis " Byanjarouk," after
some fair saint of theirs whom they highly reverence.
The steppe extends quite round Byanjarouk, and beyond it rise
the lofty peaks near the source of the Actou. Still farther off
are seen the highest summits of the chain, a mass of rocks, snow,
and ice among which the River Saroand has its source. Hence
we travelled toward a large clift in the mountain : here the rocks
have been torn asunder, and the strata laid bare to an enormous
depth. This chasm was about two hundred yards wide, and in
some parts more than twice that depth. With great difficulty I
descended to the bottom, where I found a rich carpet of grass
studded with flowers; in some parts immense cedars were growing.
It was a most romantic spot, in whioh I made several sketches.
The horses had been sent down the mountain, to meet us at the
mouth of the ravine ; and after a walk of several hours, I found
them feeding near a small mountain rill, where all had been pre
pared for our night's encampment.
Early next morning we crossed another spur of the chain, and
reached the eastern branch of the Kopal. Following this upward,
it led me to the higher parts of the Alatou, among scenes won
derfully grand, many of which were added to my folio. Late in
the evening we reached a waterfall, which comes tumbling from
beneath a mass of ice formed into an arch, with snow-covered
mountains rising above it. At a short distance is a conical mass
of slate rock, rising eight or nine hundred feet above tbe fall. In

456 dropping spring.
this region vegetation had almost ceased, but short moss was still
straggling upward.
After spending three days in this elevated locality, we returned
toward the plain by another route, and visited Tamohi-Boulao, or
Dropping Spring, and a magnificent one it is. It lies at the foot
of the Alatou, and the painter's art could give but a faint represen
tation of its beauty. The water comes trickling out of the rocks
in thousands of little streams that shine like showers of diamonds,
while the rocks, whioh are greatly varied in color, from a bright
yellow to a deep red, give to some parts the appearance of innu
merable drops of liquid fire. There are several small grottoes in
these rocks, and the water drops into a large basin, which runs
over fallen masses of stone in a considerable stream.
Prom this plaoe our route was to the eastward, and after travel
ling many days we reaohed the River Acsou. We entered the
gorge in the mountains, and found it very difficult to ride up from
some high rocks. Having sketched a fine view up the river, I
proceeded on foot, and made another sketch, after whioh I went
a short distance, but soon found it utterly impossible to proceed :
the river rans between perpendicular rocks, without leaving a
place on which man oan sethis foot, while beneath lies a roaring
tonent, rolling over great rocks with frightful speed, by which
large trees are snapped asunder like twigs on their passage down . No
man has ascended higher than this. If this river is ever explored,
it must be in winter, when the stream is frozen ; but then tho
gorge will be blocked up with snow, and thus rendered impassa
ble. In all probability, man will never see the full grandeur of
this mighty chasm. The Kirghis say that the mountain may be
crossed in two days, but at no point can any one descend to the
river. The snow on the Actou, including the lower parts, is at
this time too deep to admit of a journey on that side, even after
a most difficultTide over the mountains. Perhaps at the end of
July it might be possible to ascend to the foot of the mountains
in which the Acsou has its source, but this even is doubtful. At
some very distant period there must have been great convulsions
here, the rocks being elevated with so many diffierent angles of
inclination ; nevertheless I found no signs of volcanic action.
Earthquakes are frequent, and I felt the effects of two in thia
region. This evening I made a sketch of the Acsou, -with Kirghis
passing over their flocks and herds, which was a work of great

MAGNIFICENT WATERFALL. 457
difficulty. The men remind one of the Greeks, as they sit naked
on their horses, which they manage with skill and courage, fre
quently plunging into the water, at considerable personal risk, to
save a sheep or a goat.
We encamped in a most beautiful situation, commanding a view
along the mountains to the east and west, and looking over the
valley of Ghilder-a-gar-a-ghi, but we shortly found that we had
done this at the expense of our comfort, as the wind threatened
every moment to carry away our yourt. At last it was seoured
with ropes and stakes, and then we considered ourselves safe. I
started early into the mountains to sketch the Ghilder-a-gar-a-ghi,
a beautiful waterfall in the Actou. For about a verst our track
was over the plain, and subsequently the mountain rose abruptly,
with deep chasms cut into its sides. Along one of the ridges,
which were narrow and sharp, we began to ascend, and after rid
ing three hours reached a point beyond which it was irapossible to
take our horses. From this place we had a splendid view : the
water is seen leaping over the precipice in one fall eight hundred
feet high, and reaches the bottom in vapor, after whioh it is again
collected, and rushes down the gorge in white foam. To obtain a
good sketch it was necessary to descend into this mighty gorge,
which was a work of great risk. The Cossacks accompanied me,
and we reached the bottom without an accident. When standing
beneath, the fall appeared stupendous, and the roaring of the water
prevented the sound of our voices being heard.
At a short distance from the fall there is a natural arch in the
slate rocks which spans the torrent. Beyond, the water rushes ob
in many a fall till it reaches the plateau flve thousand feet below,
which is at a distance of about two versts. The savage effect of
this spot must be seen to be fully understood.
I shall now take my leave of the Alatou and Mustou Mountains,
among which I wandered for one hundred and twenty-three
days, visiting scenery of the most striking character, which con
tributed one hundred and nine sketches to my folio. In these
regions I encountered many dangers ; Providence, however, pre
served me. Once a Kirghis sent a ball from my own rifle, which
struck the rooks three inches above my htad. Though thia was
accidental, he immediately threw down the rifle, sprung into his
saddle, gallopped away, and we saw him no more. I often expe-

458 LARGE RIVER.
rienced hunger, and when I departed from the neighborhood it
was almost without clothing, and without a serviceable pair of
boots ; notwithstanding which, as I rode away I looked back with
regret upon the purple summits and snowy peaks, remembering
only the happy days I had spent among their wonderful scenery.

CHAPTER XXIX.
SAIAN MOUNTAINS — ORIENTAL SIBERIA.
After leaving the eastern end of the Alatou, a ride of seven
teen days over hill and steppe brought me to the Russian frontier
and a post-road at Semipolatinsk, when I appeared once more
among my Siberian friends, who had given me up, believing that
I was killed. I shall now cross Siberia from its western boundary
on the Irtisoh to its Oriental capital Irkoutsk, but shall not inflict
the monotony of a post journey on my readers.
It was not dragged on at the rate of three or four stations a
day, for in the twenty-four hours I often traversed two hundred
and ninety, and sometimes as much as three hundred and four
versts. If any person travelling to Irkoutsk by the great post-road
will keep awake for three stations after passing the Irtisch, he may
sleep the remainder of the journey, and on his arrival may describe
the whole country. Where the soil is sandy, the pine-tree is
spread over the land, and where it is swampy, there grows the
birch. Having reached Atchinsk I left the post-road, and turned
directly south toward the Saian Mountains, through which rans
the Yenissey. This river is one of the largest in Siberia, and
has its source in a high valley lying between the Tangnou and
Saian Mountains. I have followed its course in a small boat for
about thirteen hundred versts, sketching many flne scenes. I
visited the Tas-kill Mountains, throu.gh whioh it rolls its mighty
waters, and have seen it in the volcanic region near its source.
In one part it runs through a limestone chain, with many singular
masses of rook standing in the river : some are peculiar, and show
curious formations.' in the strata.
I came upon cliffs of white marble, as fine as any obtained at
Carrara, and the quantity is enormous. Here it rests untouched,

bed op lava. 459
near a large river whose waters are lost in the Arctic Ocean :
thus it cannot reach Europe. From this plaoe I crossed the Tas-
kill Mountains, and visited the higher region of the Saian, of
which several of the summits rise far above the line of perpetual
snow. Having ascended one of the high peaks, I had a peep at
old friends, the snowy crests of the Tangnou Mountains, that .»
were seen far to the south. I retraced my steps by another route,
and ascended the Abakan River nearly to its source, which led
me into regions to the east of the Altin-kool, and through some
of those miserable convict colonies that are there scattered about.
One day we were greatly surprised by meeting forty Cossacks all
armed with rifles : they had been chasing four men who had com
mitted several daring robberies. The den of these rascals was in
the higher part of the Saian chain ; but up to this time they had
evaded their pursuers, which greatly annoyed the Cossacks, who
would have shot them all had they got them within range of their
rifles. After a long ride I commenced my ramble in the valley of the
Oka, a most romantic spot, in whioh I spent several days sketch
ing. On one occasion I came upon an interesting scene, where
the small river Djem-a-louk falls over a bed of lava eighty-six
feet deep. The view was peculiarly striking at the back of the
fall, a large cavern having been formed by the action of the fall
ing water. It is dark, almost black; indeed, the eye cannot pe
netrate its shade and depth, while in front huge masses of lava are
piled up. The scene had a dreary aspect, but the coloring was
exquisitely beautiful. From this dark-looking basin the water
escapes into the River Oka, that has cut a passage through this
immense bed of lava, which here covers the whole valley. Hav
ing finished my sketch, I crossed to the foot of the mountains,
where our horses were waiting, and then we continued our ride
toward the north. After going about ten versts I found that the
lava terminated abruptly, and that I had reaohed the farthest
point to which it had fiowed. My companions were three Cos-
Backs and three Bouriats; the latter, though natives of the valley
some twenty versts distant, had never visited this plaoe before.
I desired to cross the Oka, and trace this bed of lava toward a
great ravine in the mountains whioh I saw to the south ; but,
having reached the bank of the river, we found it a broad and
deep stream, over whioh it was impossible to swim our horses.

460 CROSSING .4 RAPID.
A few versts farther down the river we saw a Bouriat aoxd.
that the men said belonged to a lama, who had a canoe, with
which we could cross the flood. On reaching the habitation we
were informed that the lama was absent; but his son, a youth of
eighteen, instantly consented to aid us with the canoe, if we ould
cross with safety, though he seemed to fear that the river had
swollen so much by rain in the mountains as to render our pass
age impracticable. There was only one spot where it was possi
ble to paddle over, and he ordered some men to take the canoe
and accompany us. The river at this point was about a hundred
yards broad, with a rapid rushing over the bed of lava above us,
and another large one about one hundred and flfty yards below.
It was over this small space that wo must oross; and as it was by
no means in smooth water, not one of the lama's men would con
sent to take us. Another Bouriat was sent for. He soon arrived,
and, after looking at the rushing waters a few minutes, said he
would do it, but on no account would undertake to swim the
horses across. The young lama assured me that this was of no
conseqifenoe, as we could obtain horses at an aoul on the other
side. This being settled, the raan proposed to take me over first, and
instantly began to strip off his clothing, insisting that I should do
the same, which having been done, and a part only of my dress,
shirt, and trousers secured in the canoe, he extorted from me a
promise that I would not move when seated in the little craft ;
then he stepped iuto the canoe, and I sat down in the bottom.
The Bouriats hauled us near to the foot of the rapid, when my
Charon called out to let go, and in an instant we were in the
rushing water, whioh carried us fast toward the falls. The man
handled his paddles well, and managed his littie craft beautifully,
landing us only a few yards above the plaoe where the water
passed the brink. It was with no slight relief I stood on the
granite rocks and put on part of my dress ; for, had a paddle
broken, destraction was ine-vitable. After resting a few minutes,
the man dragged his canoe up to the falls, recrossed the river,
and brought over a Cossack ; in a little more than an hour all the
party, with our arms and saddles, were safely landed. Horsi 8
were then procured, when I rewarded the man, and having
watched him across the river, we rode up the valley. The lava
rose like a wall, in some places forty feet high ; in others it was

beautiful waterfall. 461
heaped into enormous masses, and great chasms crossed the bed
looking as if formed by the mass cooling. This volcanic matter
interested me greatly, and I determined to seek its source, for
during my ride I had ascertained that it had flowed down the
valley of the Djem-a-louk. At dusk in the evening we reached
a Cossack picket, when I made known my wishes to the officer,
who told me that the Bouriats had great dread of that valley, and
never ascended it except by compulsion. He ordered that seven
good men should be collected, and be ready to accompany me in
the morning.
Soon after daylight they had assembled. We were eleven in
number, and the Cossacks had no fear of Shaitan, whom the
Bouriats thought we should be sure to find. About ten versts
from the picket we entered upon the dreaded region, and wended
our way close to the edge of the lava, frequently through a dense
forest, amid fallen rocks and detached heaps of volcanic matter.
I am not surprised that these men have a superstitious dread of
this place, for a more savage and supernatural-looking valley I
never saw. The river Djem-a-louk was lost under the lava for ten
or fifteen versts, and then we found it rushing and roaring over
its bed of the same material. The ride was a difficult one, often
along the foot of various precipices 1500 to 2000 feet in height,
from which huge blocks had been thrown into the bed when in a
fluid state, whioh was clearly perceptible by the current dividing
on each side of the rocks, like water at the pier of a bridge.
About noon on the second day we reached a point where another
deep and narrow valley joined the Djem-a-louk from the south,
and in this there was also a bed of lava evidently produce^ by the
same eruption, which was so ragged, and intersected by such deep
fissures, that it was impossible to take our horses aoross to explore
the valley. Our difficulties became greater as we proceeded for
ward; in some places the lava filled the valley up to the perpen
dicular face of the precipices, which compelled us to take our
horses over its broken surface. In one part we came upon a
beautiful waterfall, flowing over the top of one of the high cliffs.
The strata were perfectly horizontal; the water fell in a thin
stream, about twenty-five feet wide, and all the forms of the
rocks could be seen through it. After dropping thirty feet, it
was wafted about by the breeze like a piece of the finest gauze,
and before reaching the bottom it was lost in vapor, but we

462 CRATER OF AN EXTINCT VOLCANO.
found it again collected into a stream at the bottom of the
rocks. On the evening of the third day, we beheld the Kara-Noor,
which I at first supposed to be the crater, but on reaching ita
shore I found that it must be sought in another direction, in a
deep valley running directly to the south, which was done on foot.
We started at daybreak the following morning, and crossed the
bed of lava in the valley of the Djem-a-louk. In doing this we
had to descend into chasms sixty and eighty feet deep, where the
volcanic matter had cracked in cooling. After a day of extra
ordinary toil, we slept on blocks of it at night. On the afternoon
of the second day, we beheld the top of a huge cone, and, as the
sun was setting, stood on its summit, looking upon the terrific
scene around. I at once began sketching a view of this wonder
ful region, and gave orders to a Cossaok to have a fire and prepa
rations made for our night's encampment. Large trees were
growing on the sides of the cone, wood close at hand, and water
could be got at no great distance. He left me to communicate
nis instructions, and shortly returned, informing me that the
Bouriats were in a state of great alarm. They begged of me not
to attempt to sleep on the cone, as, should I venture to do so,
Shaitan, with his legions, would certainly pay us a visit, and
probably hurl us iuto the fearful abyss in the crater. So great
was their dread, that the Cossack assured me the men would run
away and leave us. I desired him to tell them to prepare our
camp where they pleased. The cone is about 800 feet high, is
exceedingly abrapt and deep in the interior, and formed of lava
and red -ashes. It stands at the northern end of the crater,
whioh is elliptical in form, but very irregular, extending from
north to south nearly two miles, and in some parts more than
three quarters of a mile in width; toward the southern end of
the crater rose another cone of more recent date and of greater
magnitude. Beyond this, a small stream whioh comes from
the snowy mountains above, dashes over the brink of the
crater, and rushes on among masses of lava till it takes its
last leap into a fearful abyss. This crater is not on the summit
of a mountain, as high peaks and ridges surround it on every
side. Its eastern side is bounded by rocks probably not less
than two thousand feet high, which are not perpendicular,
but overhang their base, their faces bearing marks of intense

BLACK-LEAD MINE. 463
heat. A. few are gray, others purple, and some of a deep red.
To the northeast, these high precipices have been rent asunder
into a tremendous chasm, through which the lava has flowed into
the valley which joined the Djem-a-louk, where I observed it
when making the ascent. No scene with which I am acquainteal
conveys such an impression of the terrible and sublime as the
prospect from some parts of this wonderful region, in which I
spent many days.
We returned by another route, crossing the high mountains to
the north. When ascending, I found many large stones and
other matter that had been ejected from the crater during the
eruptions, of which there have been three at distant periods, and
the cones are still more reoent. From one sumrait we looked
down into the crater, and could see the valleys through which
the igneous matter has flowed. When the volcano was belching
forth its lava, flames, and thunder, with the molten mass sur
rounding the mountain, it must have appeared like an island in a
sea of ffie.
In the country of the Kalkas, to the south of Oubsa-noor,
exist other volcanic indications, which would connect this volcano
-with Pe-shan in the Syan-shan.
Lea-ving the wild volcanic region, we commenced our journey
up the valley of the Oka, on our way to visit a black-lead mine
discovered and worked by a Frenchman, M. Alebere. The route
led us through some fine mountain scenery, which I found well
worth a visit, and we had to pass many mountain torrents, now
much swollen by the snow melting in the higher chains, which
not only delayed us, but frequently rendered our ride dangerous.
After a journey of three days, we reached the mine, whioh is on
the summit of a mountain perfectly dome-shaped; there are
others all around it rising considerably higher, while to the east
rise great cliffs of granite, which appear falling into ruins as they
are tumbled into the valley beneath. M. Alebere received me
with great kindness, and I found him a most intelligent man.
The mine was a shaft about twenty feet in diameter, and at that
time about twenty feet deep ; I descended it by a wooden stair
case, and found the sides covered with a thick coating of ice,
that rendered it impossible to distinguish one mineral from an
other. Some large pieces of black lead were shown to me of an
excellent quality, which M. Alebere considered superior to the

464 BRIDGE OF ICE.
best Cumberland lead. Having tried it, I think it is equal to
any now produced, and much better than most black lead in use.
He has invested a large sum in the mines, and I most sincerely
wish him success.
Bly journey was now southward, toward the higher parts of the
chain, which extends far into Mongolia. Our route was over a
lofty ridge, from which I had a splendid view to the west, where
a high plateau runs up to the snowy peaks, while to the north
are seen the white summits beyond the Oka. Leaving this, we
descended into a deep valley, in which runs a branch of the River
Buch-a-sou. On reaching its bank we found it a mountain tor
rent, that gave us much trouble to cross, but we succeeded at a
point where it was bridged over with ioe, under which the water
rushed with a great roar. The ioe was in many parts twelve,
fifteen, and even twenty feet thick, with channels cut through it
in every direction. In some places the river undermines these icy
masses, and we were obliged to cross from one side to the other
several times. As we rode over at one plaoe a part fell with a
tremendous crash, whioh echoed among the rooks like thunder.
This was a most difficult and dangerous ride, and occupied us
many hours ; at last we turned up a ravine which led us to a
higher valley between two mountain ridges. Having ascended
the one to the south, we looked down upon a lake in a deep and
beautiful valley, -with snow-capped mountains in this direction,
while to the eastward were seen the high peaks near the sources
of the Oka and Irkout.
Before night we had descended to the lake, and discovered the
-\?hole valley to be a morass. Having selected tlie best place we
Oould find, our saddle-cloths were spread at the roots of some birch-
i rees, where we spent a most uncomfortable night. We left as
I ariy as possible, and crossed the mountain to the River Korolgo.
It was by following this river that I hoped to penetrate to the
liigher part of the chain. I was led into many a wild and deso
late scene among mountain peaks covered with eternal snows. In
this region there was much work for my pencil ; from one sum
mit I obtained a view of the misty crests of the Tangnou chain ;
also of another, which branches from the Saian in a southerly
direction, and joins the mountains near Saugin. Thus I was
enabled to see and sketch the whole of the mountain chains in
this vast region. The best idea I can give of the magnitude of

HILL OF TALC. 465
the mountain masses that ran through Asia, separating Siberia
and Mongolia, is by a comparison with the Alps, which can be
crossed in four or five days : the wanderer among the Asiatic Alps
his lost no time if he contrives to cross them in thirty- five.
Having sketched many views, and satisfied myself about the
direction of the chains, I ordered that our route should be to the
eastward. We continued our ride for several days along the valleys
to the south of the highest ridge, where the water rans to the
south, and ultimately finds its way into the Yenissey. The Bou
riats proposed that we should turn to the north, as they could
guide me by a route used by the Cossacks and Blongolians when
they meet to exchange small quantities of the produce of the two
empires. The representatives of his Celestial majesty bring tea,
silks, and a few other Chinese articles, which they barter with the
Cossacks for some of their valuable furs. These are smalLfairs
held at stated periods, when the little bands of traders assemble
in these wild and desolate regions, and conduct their transactions
on strictly honest principles, spending a few days in such enjoy
ments as their camp can afford. They then separate and return
to their homes. I have been present at one of these little gather
ings, and have observed the intense gravity with which they enter
upon their mercantile transactions.
We had a rough ride for three days, when at length we reached
the pass by which we had to recross the chain. The snow-capped
summits rose far above us. We began to wind our course up
ward, and in a few hours had ascended considerably above the
line of perpetual snow. In some parts we found it soft, causing
our horses to sink and flounder rather uncomfortably, and more
than one man left his portrait on the snow. Having passed the
snowy region, and descended some distance to the north, I saw a
large rounded hill in one of the valleys, of a beautiful light green
color; that it was not grass or herbage I was certain. I ordered
our march in that direction, and on reaching the spot discovered
that the whole mount was a mass of beautiful green talc — some
transparent, other portions opaque. During our ride to-day I
procured from one of the mountain torrents some beautiful pieces
of nephrite, which could, no doubt, be found in large quantities if
a proper search were made for it. One of the specimens was of a
deep green, -with yellow veins crossing in various forms; the other
was a light green, with veins of a white metallic appearance.
30.

466

MOUNTAIN ASCENT.

This eountry is rich in aquamarine and other stones, and some of
considerable value are to be met with in the granite, and in the
rivers lower down. I saw both men and women searching for
lapis lazuli, whioh in some of the streams has been found in con
siderable quantities. I ascertained that it contained a great deal
of quartz, which reduced its value ; nevertheless, they offered it
to me at sixteen shillings a pound, and the peasants sell it to
the Chinese. Although this mineral, like the precious stones,
belongs to the crown, the people carry on their searches almost
without molestation.
After many a day of toil over mountain and morass, I at last
reached " Nouk-a-daban" (a mountain over which it is possible to
ride). We began our ascent in heavy rain, following the valley
of the Oka, now dwindled to a small rill. About midday we
reached the lake in which it has its source ; seven or eight versts
from this there is another lake, the source of the Black Irkout, and
between these two there is a morass, a thorough "slough of de
spond," almost impassable — indeed, the mud and water were
sometimes over our saddles. At length it was passed, and every
man felt a relief; but we had not ridden far when the rain poured
down in torrents, accompanied by a cold, piercing blast. This
made us push on aa fast as possible, as there was not a tree to
shelter us — not even a shrub. We were now ascending fast, when
we beheld a worse enemy than either rain or morass. The clouds
were settling fast on the higher summits, causing serious alarm to
all, as we should shortly be among the precipices near which we had
to ride. Both Cossacks and Bouriats observed the fog approach
ing with great dread. At length we reached a torrent, and with
out hesitation several of us rode in, and got over with great diffi
culty. Some of our men were a little behind ; they came up in
a few minutes, but were too late. The water was rising fast, and
not a moment was to be lost; they turned their horses, and gal
lopped toward a bend in the torrent, about a verst distant. For
tunately they succeeded, but the passage aoross was attended with
great danger; two minutes later it could not have been accom
plished. As the fog was settling down upon us fast, I took the
bearings with my compass of the high rocks at the head of the
pass by which we were to descend to the White Irkout. Our
horses were then pushed on at a gallop, but we were soon obliged
to pull up by the fog. At some distance to the south we knew

AN AVALANCHE. 467
there were tremendous precipices, and our chief object was to keep
clear of them. -¦ One of the men thought he could guide us, and
we proceeded slowly for a considerable time. Suddenly he stop
ped us, when we could hear falling water evidently near at hand.
Two of the men rode toward the sound, and when they returned
stated that the water was falling from some rocks rising far above
us. They advised us to turn to the northeast, believing that we
had got up to the edge of a deep valley, which they knew ran
along the south side of the mountain ; but we had not proceeded
far when the clouds began to break, which enabled us to see ob
jects around us. We presently perceived that theywere right in
their conjectures, and they now found an object by whioh they
were able to guide us to the head of the pass.
After descending about two hundred yards we were beneath
the clouds that were rolling up fast. In a short time the rain
ceased, when we obtained a fine prospect of the white summits of
" Monko-seran-Xardick" (eternal snow and ice). It is a huge
mountain mass rent asunder by deep ravines; down them were
rushing many torrents, the thundering sound of which was dis
tinctly heard. The pass was not difficult to descend, and we pre
sently reaohed a small chapel built by the Cossacks on the brink
of a deep ravine. Our horses were stopped, the men dismounted,
and the Cossacks entered the little building to offer up their thanks
four our preservation, and prayers for our farther safety, as we had
yet some dangers to encounter before reaching the Irkout. The
Bouriats also make this a sacred spot; and ours hung up a few
small pieces of silk on several rods seoured on the edge of the
rocks. From this place the descent into the ravine is very abrupt,
and after riding some distance I oame upon the opposite scene.
The arch is a natural one in a great mass of limestone ; farther
down there are several caverns, but of no great extent. Part of
the men went on to the Irkout, and two remained with me while
I sketched. My work was nearly completed when we were star
tled by a rushing sound far above us, which continued for the
space of two minutes, when it suddenly ceased, followed some
moments after by a terrible crash. One of the Cossacks sprung
up, and said a raountain had fallen. It was an avalanche whioh
had swept down the side of Monko-seran-Xardick, and leaped into
one of the gorges.
Long before dusk we had passed over the difficulties on Nouk-

468

IMPASSABLE TORRENT.

a-daban, and joined our friends at the encampment on the White
Irkout. Our night's quarters were on the bank of this mountain
torrent, fronting its fearful gorge, and on a triangular piece of
land, two sides formed by the Black and White Trkouts at their
junction, the other by the precipices of Nouk-a-daban : each was
about four hundred yards in length, and in parts studded with
large larch-trees, under some of which we encaraped. A bri'ght
sun cast his rays into the deep gorges, which induced me to start
early on my sketching expedition in the valley of the Black Irkout,
accompanied by three men. We forded the river without difiS
culty, and I shortly found subjects for my pencil. At one point
the river flows through a narrow chasm, and the mountain appears
to have been rent asunder. Through the opening the water
rashes with fearful force. Though it proved a barrier to any
farther progress, I was well repaid for my ramble, and my folio
was enriched by several striking scenes. The next morning I
started with five of my companions to explore the gorge of the
White Irkout, a river rolling down the side of a raountain in a
deep rent in the rooks. To ride here was impossible, for in front
of our tent the bed of this torrent was about one hundred and
fifty yards wide, with huge masses of rock and small stones
brought down by the water heaped up in great confusion. These
divided the channel ; the one portion near to us was dry, but the
water was thundering down on the other side of the gorge.
Having ascended about three hundred yards we came to a part
where the streara was bridged over with ice, which in sorae placea
was broken through, and I found it twenty feet thick. It waa
not agreeable to hear the rushing water under our feet ; but in a
little time we reached a scene that filled us with wonder. The
chasm was here narrowed to fifty feet wide, and the rocks were
overhanging, suggesting the idea of a portal leading to the halls
of Eblis. The rock rose seven or eight hundred feet, casting a
deep gloom over the green icy floor. This and the thundering of
the water beneath created a feeling of dread I had never felt
before, whioh I could perceive was shared by my companions.
When we had passed through it into a gleam of sunlight, I felt
a relief it is impossible to describe. We ascended by this gorge
far up into Monko-seran-Xardick to the great glacier which sup
plies this fearful torrent. The locality afforded me many subjects

LAKE KOSSO-GOL. 4G9
for my pencil, and I spent five days exploring and sketching its
extraordinary scenes. .
Subsequently we descended the valley of the Black Irkout,
which skirts the high precipices of Monko-seran-Xardick. Some
of these are limestone, others are beautiful marble — white, with
deep purple spots and small veins. In another part I found a
rich yellow marble, equal, if not superior, to the best Sienna ; but
these valuable materials remain untouched by man. As we
descended the high bank of the river, Ve came upon a deep ravine,
nearly filled with ice, in which there were many chasms. This
compelled us to ascend, and try to cross at a higher point. At
length we reached a part of the ravine filled with snow and ice,
where large poplars were growing, with only their tops above
the ioy mass ; the branches were in full leaf, although the tranks
were imbedded in the snow and ice to a depth of twenty-five feet.
I dismounted, examined several, and found that there was a space
around the stem nine inches wide, filled with water, the only parts
that appeared to be thawing. I have often seen fiowers penetrat
ing a thin bed of snow, but this was the first time I had found
trees growing under such circumstances.
Having descended the river about fifteen versts, we turned to
the south, and crossed one of the lower ridges of Monko-seran-
Xardick, that brought us to a part of the mountain which
afforded me a view of Kosso-gol, a lake extending from the foot
of the ridge on which I stood into Mongolia : it is about one
hundred versts in length, and probably thirty in breadth. A
picturesque chain of mountains runs along its western shore,
many of the summits reaching far above the snow-line. There is
a large island near the northern end of the lake thickly wooded,
and the Kalkas come here in the winter to hunt. Far to the
south, and nearly in the middle of the lake, there is a conical
island, most probably of volcanic origin. I found three great
volcanic hills, from the sides of which lava had issued ; one, at
the north end of the lake, is of large dimensions. There was
much to interest me here, and the geologist would find this a
country where he could study some of Nature's grandest works.
From this place we rode directly east, over a country crossed
by several low ridges of mountains, in many parts densely wooded
with pines and cedars. Here, also, I found both men and women

470 LAKE BAIKAL.
engaged in seeking for lapis lazuli ; they had been successful,
having discovered it in the mountains near the source of the little
river Koultouk. Our route was down the bank of this stream to
the Baikal, which we reached on the seventh day after leaving
K isso-gol. The village of Koultouk stands at the western end of the Bai
kal, or, as the natives call it, the Holy Sea, which is said by them
to be unfathomable, and subject to terrific storms. Here I ob
tained a small boat, and a crew of seven men to row her. It was
now the last week in August, rather late for a voyage on these
dangerous waters ; but the men were hardy, sturdy fellows, who
knew the risks and perils they would incur in conveying me to
the River Angara. We left the village about noon, when num
bers of the peasants assembled to wish us a good voyage. In the
night there had been a great thunder-storm, and they feared that
we should have bad weather. After rowing about two hours we
passed a rocky headland, which shut out the view of the village.
Nor was there any other along the shore, whioh had now become
rugged and extremely wild. The evening was oalm, with scaroely
a ripple on the water, and the sun went down in a blaze of crim
son light, which can only be seen in this part of the world, or in
tropical regions. Our steersman proposed that we should run
into a deep bay and encamp, and landed us at the mouth of a small
river, where we slept on a sandy beaoh, the boat having been drawn
far out of the water.
Again we had 6, fine calm moraing, with a prospect of a good
day, and the men pulling well, we glided beautifully over the
glassy water. The cliffs along the shore were high and rugged,
with occasional breaks, where a mountain torrent found its way to
the lake. It was near one of these that I sketched a view, look
ing toward the mountains on the opposite shore, araong which is
Amar-daban. I had heard a description of this mountain from a
hisch official, who had been sent on a mission to the Trans-Baikal.
When relating the perils of his journey far away from the dis
trict, I will not repeat the nonsense he talked, but merely state
that he concluded his marvellous story by saying it was not de
cided by geographers whether Amar-daban or Chiraborazo pos
sessed the higher elevation, but his opinion was that " nasha
gora" (our mountain) had the advantage. In reality, Amar-

A CUNNING BEAR. 471
daban is rather more than four thousand feet above the sea : it doea
not reach the line of perpetual snow.
Our voyage to-day was a splendid one, and the lake was like a
mirror ; indeed, we could see into its depth, and watch the fish
sporting round the rocky points far below the surface. We en
camped on the bank of a small river, which flows through a wild
glen leading up into the mountains, and is a celebrated hunting-
ground for bears. Our steersman, who was a great Nimrod, re
lated a circumstance which happened to himself on this spot a few
years before. - Three of the villagers came here to hunt in the
forest above. They got separated, two of them following a bear,
and the third another, which turned toward the upper part of the
glen, where he pursued him until dusk, but without suooess.
After this he returned to the camp, expecting to flnd his friends,
but they had not arrived ; hour after hour passed, and they did
not appear. He was under no apprehension about their safety,
and sat down to his evening meal. When this was ended, he
piled several logs on the flre, and was soon fast asleep. Two or
three hours had passed, when he was awoke by something near
him, and, turning his head, he observed, by the light of his fire,
a large bear going down the bank to the little stream. He di
vined the object of the brute in an instant. Bruin was going for
water to put the fire out, then intending to devour his viotim.
It was the work of a moment for the hunter to seize his rifle,
whioh was at hand, and wait for his return. Presently he was
heard in the water, was watched ascending the bank, and when
fairly in the light of the fire he received a bullet that rolled him
down the bank dead. It is a fact well known that the bear will
not attack a man when sleeping by a fire, but will first go into the
water, saturate his fur, then return, put out the fire, and devour
his victim at his leisure.
In three days more I passed the Angara, the only outlet for
this great body of water. Again I had Russian peasants for my
boatmen, who pulled me along at a short distance from the shore.
There was great monotony in the high cliffs, nevertheless I found
a few points of extraordinary beauty. After rowing about 150
versts I had Bouriat boatmen ; but these are not the men to navi
gate the Baikal in a gale, and I not only encountered bad weather,
but was often iu great danger. Having spent twenty-eight daya

472 MAKE FRIENDS AND ACQUAINTANCES.
on this Alpine sea, I left these people and the risks of the voyage,
crossing the country on the north of the Baikal to the great post-
road, and reached Irkoutsk the 3d of October. Here I spent the
winter in the capital of Eastern Siberia, where I made a few
friends and many acquaintances. I deeply regret that want of
space prevents the expression of my feelings toward those whose
kindness has not been forgotten.

INDEX.

Abakan, the, a river of 'Western Siberia, 459.
Abbaye Steppe (in the Altai), auUior arrives
at, 305.
Accident to the author on the south bank
of the Volga, 17.
AconitutD, blue and pale yellow specimens
of this plant obserred by the author in the
neighborhood of Petropavlosk Belock, 278.
Acsou, the, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 456.
Ac-tas (White Stone), the, a hill of quartz on
the Kirghis Steppes, 201.
Actou (White Mountain), tbe, 439.
Admiral Rickardt, author receives informa
tion respecting Siberia from, 13.
Ah-oosh, or Aoush (Holy Lake), a Siberian
lake near the foot of the Ilman-tou, 115;
gold mine near— beautifuUy situated, 115.
Ai, the River, 96.
Alarkool, a lake in Chinese Tartary, distant
view of, 439 ; author reaches, 442.
Alaton (Yariegated Mountain), the, 439; a
fine view of, 447 ; author ascends the first
ridges of, 449.
Alebere, M,, discoverer and worker of a
black-lead mine in Oriental Siberia, 463.
Alexander-sopka, rocky summits of the Ou
ral thus named, 96.
Alie Iholdi, a sultan of the Eirghis Steppes,
448 ; claims descent irom Timour Khan,
448.
Altai Range, the approach to, 137 ; sublime
views amid, 168. Vide Chaps. XI., XXT.,
XXIII., passim.
AHin-Kool (Golden Lake), a lake in the
Altai, 288 ; scenery of, 288-290 ; immense
depth of, 289 ; author caught in a storm
on, 296 ; the canoes in use on, 297.
Amar-daban, a monntain of Siberia, 471 ; an
ofQcial's opinion with respect to its height,
471.
Amethysts, found at Tushakalva, a village
near Mursinsk, 88; superior to the Bra^
zilian, 88.
Anemones amongthe mountains ofthe Altai
Chain, 323.
Angara, the, a river of Oriental Siberia, 470 ;
author makes a voyage on tbe Baikal
Lake to the mouth of, 470.
Anna Petrovnaia, 101, 102.
Anossoff, General, director of the works at

Zlataoust, 97 ; rescues from oblivion the
ancient art of damascening arms, 98; made
Governor of Tomsk, and Chief of the Mines
of the Altai, 98 ; tribute paid to his genius
by Captain James Abbott, of H. E. I. Ca
Artillery, 99.
Antelopes among the Tangnou Mountains,
354.
Aoul, anxious search for one, 218.
Aoush-tou (Holy Mount), 115; Bashkir vil
lage at the foot of, 116; Bashkir tombs on
the summit of, 116« fine views from,
117.
Aquamarina found in Oriental Siberia, 89.
Aquatic birds, numerous on the lakes of
Chinese Tartary, 431,
Aquilegia, beautiful specimens of, 163, 316,
Arabdan, a chief of the Kalkas, 351.
Arakym, the, a river of Western Siberia,
157, 158; its valley a famous Kalmuck
hunting-ground, 158; picturesque branch
of this river running up toward the Chol
soun Chain, 158; characteristics of the
scenery of, 159; loss and recovery of a
watch on the banks of, 160.
Aramilskoi, a Siberian village twenty-two
versts from Ekaterineburg, 91.
Arasan, the, a warm spring rising In a ravine
of tbe Alatou, 454.
Argasi, a Siberian lake, 95.
Arkat Mountains, tbe, an inconsiderable
chain stretching across the Kirghis Steppe,
220.
Arriga, tbe, a river of Western Siberia, 313;
a wild bivouac on the banks of, 314.
Asia, the author crosses the boundary-line
between Europe and, 21; be definitively
sets out for the steppes of, 127 ; peep into
Central, 349.
Avalanche, debris of one fallen from the
Bielouka, 328; fall of one from Monko-
seran-Xardick, 469.
Aventurine, a beautiful species of, found in
the upper valleys of the Tom, 284; in the
neighborhood of the Tcherney Beryl, 326.
B.
Baikal, the, a lake of Oriental Siberia, 470;
author makes a voyage on, 471. ^
Balagan, a species of, 76 ; an extempore one,
289.

(473)

474

INDEX-

Bal-boijch, gold mines at, 117; manner of
obtaining the gold at, 117.
Balicsou, the, a river of Western Siberia, 283.
Balicty, tbe, a river of Western Siberia,
449--450 ; agreeable fertility of its banks,
450.
Ball, a Kirghis, at Oust-Eamenogorsk, 252-
254.
Bandits, a night attack upon a Kirghis aoul
made by, 199 ; two Cossacks robbed by
Kirghis, 208; author escapes from a party
of, in the IsilKsou valley, 213 ; rumors of,
233 ; night attack of, 235 ; author and party
mistaken for, 398, 425,429; an encamp
ment of, 403; author warned against
Chinese, 419, 422, -.426 ; from the Saian
Chain, 459.
Barabinsky Steppe, the, 140 ; delightful
scenery, 140.
Baranta (robbery), a highly successful one,
451.
Barantchinsk, iron-works at, 62.
Baratinsky, Governor-General of Kazan, 18.
Barks, built at Outskinsko'i Pristan, descrip
tion of, 23; manner in which they are
launched, 24; interesting ceremony of
blessing, 24.
Barluck Mountains, the, 437.
Barnaoul, the chief town in the mining dis
trict of the Altai, 146; assistance received
by the author from the Birector of the
Mines there, 146; author revisits, 260;
description of, 260; the silver smeUing
works at, 261 ; gold sent to be smelted at,
261 ; six caravans leave this .town every
yetit freighted with the precious metals,
261; the head-quiirters ofthe administra
tion of the mines of the Altai, 262; the
superior offlcers of tbe various mining and
engineering departments in. 262 ; museum
in, 264; shop.q in, 266; prices of the moro
important artides sold in the market of,
2ij(); agreeabl*! society in. 267; barracks
and troops, 267 ; number of its inhabitunt'i,
2ij7 : field-sports in the neighborhood of,
268-271.
Baftalt, black, a huge mass in the Isilksou
valley, 211; columns of, on the Kirghis
Steppe, 232.
Bashkir, village at the foot ofthe Mountain
Aoush-tou, 115; beautiful burial-place of
the Bashkir chiefs, character of the Bash
kirs, 116. ^
Baspasihan, a Kirghis sultan, 384; bis yourt,
384 ; his curiosity respecting fire-arms, 384 ;
banquet at which the author was enter
tained by, 385-386 ; author hunts with,
389-391 ; author revisits, 434.
Bath, description of a Siberian, 46 ; beneficial
effects of a Siberian, 259.
Beach, ancient sea, on the Kirghis Stc>ppe,,233.
Bear, a fine one shot by a Siberian hunter,
51 ; one mistaken for a cow, 100 ; charming
adventure with one, 100-101; fearful en
counter with one near Tparavo-Nieholi-
ovsky, 278; its remarkable conclusion,
279-280; adventure with a she-bear and
her cubs, 281-282; polite visit from one,
295; in a raspberry garden, 333; a cun
ning one, 471.
Bearcoote (eagle), the, metbod in use among
lhe Kirghis of hunting deer with, 388-390.
Beck, the richest sulian of the Kii'gbis

Steppes, 442; manner in whirh he wns
taught civility, 442; author's iutervi«w
with him, 443.
Belasenskoi gold mine, 280.
Bellousa. the, a Siberian river, 285.
Beokichevo, a Siberian post-station, 136,
Berg inspector, the, or chief director of
mines stationed iu Ekaterineburg, 84.
Beryl found in several parts of the Oural, 88,
Bezroukova, a Siberian post-station near the
Ischim Steppe, 135.
Biela Beryl, the, a river of Western Siberia,
322 ; peculiar appearance of its stream, 324.
Bielaya-Gora (White Mountain). 71-72; au
thor ascends, 73; tea-party on the top of,
74 ; remarkable masses of rock on, 76. '
Bielouka, the Mountain, the giant of the
Altai, 168; author's difficulty in flnding a
good point of view from wbich to sketch
it, 319-323; description of, 322-323; cha
racter ofthe scenery around, 323.
Bilimbawsky, iron-works of Count Strogo
noff at, 22.
Birch-trees ou the mountains bordering the
Altin-Kool Lake, 291 ; fond of a swampy
soil, 458.
Bi-tchuc-too, the, a river of Western Siberia,
316.
Blackcock shooting on the shores ofthe Ob,
270.
Black Irkout, Oriental Siberia, author visits,
on a sketching expedition, 468.
Blagodat, magnetic ores of. manufactured
at Nijne Toura, 48; two hills, named re
spectively the '* Great" and tho " Little"
Blagodat, 59; view from, 60; author's
sketching expedition to. 60 ; memorial
chapel on the summit of the Great Bla
godat, 60.
Boars, wild, traces of, on the Kirghis Steppe,
205; chase of, in Mongolia, 376-378; in
Chinese Tartary, 390-391; one carried off
by a tiger, 432.
Bogda OSla, the highest peak of the Syan- ,
tthan, distant views of, 349; effects of sun
rise ou its snow-clad peaks, 421; magnifi
cent view of, 430.
" Bomb," a Kalmuck word, meaning a nar
row ridge of rocks along which but one
horse can pass at a time, 334 ; dangerous
passage along one, 334.
Bouchtarraa, the, a river of Western Siberia,
176; beautiful scenery on and beyond, 177 ;
author arrives at tbe mouth of. 187 ; town
and fortress on the banks of. 187 ; peculiar
conical mount on the northwest side of *
the town, 187 ; many ancient tumuli in
the neighborhood of, 187.
Bouloshnia, the first winter station on the
Irtisch, 188 ; uncomfortable lodgings at,
188; miserable state of the inhabitants,
189; tempest musie at, 190.
Bouran (snow-storm), a taste of a Siberian,
257 ; effects of, 257-259.
Bouriats, a tribe on the shores of the Balkal|
459.
Buchanan, Mr., the English chargg d'affaires
at St. Peter.sburg, 13.
Buch-a-sou, the, a river of Oriental Siberia,
466 ; covered by an enormous depth of ice,
466.
Byjagat, the name of a band of robber*
dwelling to the east of the Ala-kool, 438

INDEX.

475

c.
Calceolaria, a magnificent collection of, at
tbe Syssertskoi Zavod, 92.
Camel?, a group of, feeding on the Kirghis
side ofthe Irtisch, 187.
Caravans, six leave Barnaoul every year
with the precious metals, 261.
Card-playing, excessive indulgence in, in
Ekaterineburg, 85; a celebrated player,
85-86; alleged cause of tbe excessive in
dulgence in this amusement in Eussia, 86.
Castle belonging to the Demidoffs at Ne
viansk, 77 ; now kept up for the accom
modation of travellers, 77 ; strange story
respecting, 78.
Caverns, on the bank of the Tehoussowaia,
28, 36, 37 ; of Mount Sugomac, 95 ; the au
thor is informed of some said to be situated
about fifteen verst,s from Iltabanaffsky,
119; they prove to be of very insignificant
size, 121 ; an extensive one, 95 ; a large
one in some limestone rocks on the shore
of Lake Altin-kool, 296 ; on the River Tess,
359; tbat of Oulunjour, 371.
Cedars, Siberian (Pinus Cembra), 51, 55, 65,
73; gigantic specimens in the southerly
region, 156; on the Abbaye Steppe, 310.
Chaitansk, a village in the Oural, 77.
Chaitanskoi Pristan, author arrives at, 29 ;
fatal accidents at, 29; author weather
bound at, 31.
Chapel i u a Siberian mountain pass, 467.
Chealee, the, a river of Western Siberia, 293.
Chesnooka, a mountain of the Altai range,
178.
Chiefs, Kirghis, vide Alie Iholdi, Baspasihan,
Beck, Dulembie, Iamantuck, Koubaldos,
Mahomed, Oui-jass, Sabeck, Ac.
Chinese Empire, frontier ofthe, 171.
Chinese Tartary, distant view of the Steppes
of, 317 ; characteristics of the scenery of,
380, 381.
Cholsoun, tbe, a mountain ofthe Altai rauge,
author ascends, 163 ^characteristics of, 164 ;
fine views from, 164 ; author overtaken by
a terrible storm on, 165; remarkable pil
lars of rock on, 165; author revisits, 169;
fiue view of the northern part of the chain
of, 173.
Chort. one of the author's Kalmuck servants,
instances of his daring aud activity, 336,
338.
Clouds, electric, 294, 295.
Coachman, a Kirghis, 124; a Cossack, 125.
Coal, beds of, on the hanks of the River
Tom, 284.
Columns, basaltic, on tbe Kirghia Steppe,
232; jasper carved at Kolyvan, 298.
Compass, riding a horse to the points of the,
242, 243.
Conflagration, a, on the Kirghis Steppe,
202-203.
Convicts, author meets with a large party
marching into Eastern Siberia, 134; de
scription of the prisons provided for them
at each station, 134; convict colonies, 138.
Copper mines at Tagilsk, 69; enormous
masses of malachite found there. 69.
Cora, the, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 452,
453; magnificent manner in which it
burst'' from its mountain bed, 453.
Coru, method of threshing in use among the ,
Kirghis, 256. I

Crocus, white, met with by the author on
the mountains ofthe Alatou, 453.
Cynowskoi Zavod. iron-works belonging to
Count Strogonoff, 42; Yermak, the Cos
sack, commenced his expedition for tho
conquest of Siberia from this place — au
thor visits tbe iron-works and mines at, 42.
Cypripedium calceolus, 60; guttatum, 60,
163 ; macranthum, 60 ; ventricosum, 60.

Damascening arms, art of, revived at Zla
taoust by General Anossoff, 97-99; at
present in a state of decay, 100.
Dance, a Siberian allegorical, 253.
Darma Tsyren, a celebrated Kalkas, 356.
Deer, iu what parts of Siberia found, 271;
red deer numerous in tbe valley of the
Houekan, 302; a fine one shot by the au
thor and his servant, 335.
Delphinium, two varieties of, observed by
the author in the Barabinsky Steppes, 140 ;
beautiful specimens in the neighborhood
of Petropavlosk Belock, 278.
Demidoff, Nikite, his birth-place ou the
Tehoussowaia, 42 ; Anatole Demidoff's
iron-works at Tagilsk, 69; his zeal in
affording the means of education to hia
dependants, 69, 71; immense value of the
estate possessed by the Demidoff familv in
the Oural, 70, 71; Nikite Demidoff, "the
founder of the iron and other workB in
the Oural, 77.
De Quiney, mistakes made by this author
in his account ofthe "Exodus ofthe Tar
tars," 381.
Desert of Oulan-Koum, 349 ; an uninhabit
able one, 437.
Deserter, unceremonious method of recover
ing a, 184.
Dianthus, red and white, 316; deep red and
pale yellow, 350.
Distances, difficulty of estimating them on
the vast Asiatic steppes, 228, 229.
Djabakan, a river of Mongolia, author seeks
for, 368-372; author arrives at 372.
Djem-a-louk, the, a river of Oriental Siberia,
461 ; lost for ten or fifteen versts under a
bed of lava, 461.
Dog, Kirghis, presented to tbe author, 209.
Dolmatou, a town on tbe borders of Asiatic
Russia, 131; the post-station at, 131,
Dome, an enormous natural, 317; another,
382.
Duck-shooting in Mongolia, 404, 423.
Dulembie, a Kirghia sultan, author arrives
atthe pastures of, 436; supplies the au
thor with attendants to accompany him
on his projected journey through the
country of Uie ancient Sungarians, 436.
E.
Eagle, author's contest with one, 144 ;
method in use among the Kirghis of hunt
ing the deer with, 388-390; author shoota
a large bearded one in the Alatou, 453.
Eagle Mountain in the Altai range, 173.
Earthquake at Outkinskoi Pristan, 24.
Eclipse ofthe sun, 207.
Egor Stephanish, a Siberian hunter. 51.
Ehren-dick Mountains, a part ofthe chain
of the Oural, 118.

476

INDEX.

Ekaterineburg, author sets out for, 15 ; ar
rives at, 21; cordiallv received by the
Chief of the Oural at, 21: the lake of, 80;
fine mansions in, 80; character of the
principal inhabitants of, 81 ; public build
ings in, 81; immense engineering works
belonging to the government in, 81 ; the
Granilnoi Fabric in, 82; low wages paid
for skilled labor in, 82, 83; the Gornoi-
pravlania, or General Board for the direc
tion of the mines, established in, 83 ; gene
rals of artillery established in, 83; much
gambling in, 85 ; a great number of serfs
employed by government in the Zavod oii
86 ; want of a practical head to direct the
machine works in, 87 ; great skill of the
lapidaries of, 87 ; an extensive stearine
manufactory established near, 89; com
parative uselessness of the government
engineering works in, 176.
Electric clouds, 295.
Emerald, fine crystals of, discovered near
the village of Takovaya, 87 ; story respect
ing them, 87.
£mperor of Russia, the late, grants permis
sion to the author to travel and sketch in
Siberia, 13.
Engineers, high character of the Russian
mining, 260.
Englishmen in the Oural, 105; Mr. Major,
the mechanic, 105; his murder and the
circumstances attending it, 107-110 ; Mr.
Patrick, 111 ; his mysterious disappear
ance, 111, 112 ; a stout and Epicurean one,
112, 113 ; his involuntary ride and petition
for a petticoat, 113, 114.
Eremil, the, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 438.
Ezras, the, a river of Western Siberia, 285.
r.
Pairs held on tbo borders of China and Si
beria, 465.
Falconry, a new species o^ iu use among the
Kirghia, 388-390.
Fennel, giant (ferula), 272; its rapid growth,
272; beautiful specimens in the neighbor
hood of Petropavlosk Belock, 278.
Ferry-boats on the Kaier Koomin, 173.
Fever, the author falls ill of, 252.
Fischer, Professor, jubilee in honor of, 14;
writes to his friend Dr. Gabler. at the
Altai, recommending the author to his
particular care, 14.
Fish abounds in tbe Knier Koomin, 171;
spearing in the Tiingnou, 350,
Fog, dense one on the Kirghis Steppe, 208 ;
in the valley ofthe Oka, 467.
Forest scenery in Siberia, 285.
Four Brothers, curious masses of limestone
rock on the Tehoussowaia so named, 34,
G.
Gabler, Dr., Inspector of the Hospitals in
the Altai, 264; his entomological collec
tion, 264.
Gastinoi-dvor (Market-place), the, in Bar
naoul, 266.
Genghis EJian, the scenes of his conquests,
355; one ofhis descendants, 437.
Gentiana, dark blue and white, 316,
Geraniums growing on the Barabinsky
Steppe, 140.

Ghilder-a-gar-a-ghi, a beautiful waterfall in
the Actou, 457.
Glacier at the foot of the monntain Bielouka,
oue of tho sources of the River Katounaia,
329; another, 330.
Gluckaree, a species of blackcock, author
shoots one, 55.
Goat, wild, sudden meeting with one, 122;
a herd of wild goats in the Isilksou valley,
210.
Gobi, a saudy desert in Mongolia, 347 ; au
thor reaches the caravan road which
crosses the, 379.
Gold, large masses of it found in the valley
of Zarevo-Alexandroffsky, 103 ; the Em
peror Alexander the First digs for it in
this place with his own hands, 103; deso
lating search for, 104; enormous quantity
stolen from the mines of the Oural and
sent into Tartary and Bokhara, 108; dis
covery of the robbers, 108; the gold mines
at Balbouch, 117; at Iltabanaffsky, 119;
at Preobrajenskoi, 124; mine on the Kir
ghis Steppe, 208 ; most of the gold obtained
from the Siberian mines must be sent to
be smelted at Barnaoul, 261 ; time at
which the gold-washing takes place in
Eastern Siberia, 261 ; found in the propor
tion of about three per cent, in the silver
obtained from the silver mines of the
Altai, 261, 262; mannor in whjch it ia
sought for in the Altai, 262, 263 ; loss and
recovery on the River Mrassa of a box of,
276; mine at Tsaravo-Nicholiovsky. 278;
peculiar machinery for washing the gold
in use at this mine, 278; Belansenskol
gold mine, 280; found in some of the upper
valleys ofthe Tom, 285.
Golova, the (Mayor), of Ekaterineburg, kind
ness shown to the author by, 84.
Gorge, mountain, an impassable one, 434 ;
in the Alatou, 453; on the White Irkout,
468.
Gorkoi Ozera (Bittei^Lake), a lake in West
ern Siberia, 141; its surfiice fflronged with
water-fowl, 141.
Gornoi-pravlania, the (General Board for
the Direction of the Mines established in
Ekaterineburg), 83.
Granilnoi Fabric, the, iu Ekaterineburg, 82.
Granite, remarkable beds of, in Siberia near
the Kolyvan Lake, 149; enormous ridges
of, in Mongolia, 396, 397.
Grayling, numerous, in a little stream flow
ing amid the rocks of the Oural, 66; in a
stream near the valley of the Ob, 272; a
rural dinner of, 273.
Greek art, natural studies for, 457.
H.
Halls of Eblis, a natural realization of, 468.
Hares, abundant in the winter in the neigh
borhood of Barnaoul, 271,
Harness, Kirghis, generally very beautiful
and costly, 227, 228.
Hornblend, a mountain ofthe Oural named
Seene Gora almost wholly composed of,
62.
Horses, great robbery of, on the Kirghis
Steppe, 237, 238.
Ho-theou, a volcanic peak In Chinese Tar
tary, 379.
Houekan, a well-wooded valley of Western

INDEX.

477

Siberia, 302 ; red deer numerous in this
region, 302.
Hunters, Cossack and Kalmuck, 101 ; in the
¦(Ullages on the banks of the Tom, 273;
extraordinary stories respecting Cossack,
278-282; a favorite hunt ofthe Kalmuck,
335.

Iamantuck, a sultan of a tribe in Chinese
Tartary. 439; character of himself and his
family, 439.
lattier, a Kirghis dog possessed by the au
thor, 209.
Ikeougoun, Lake, 350; regarded with great
veneration by the Kalkas, 350.
Hia, tbe, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 438,
452.
Ilimskoi, a village on the Tehoussowaia, the
author remains a day or two there for the
purpose of sketching, 34; description of,
34; domestic arrangements of the head
man of, 35; hospitalititts at, 35, 36.
Ilka Aral-Nor, Lake, in Mongolia, distant
view of, 379.
Ilman-tou, the, a mountain of the Oural
rising close to Ma'ias. 125.
Ilmenskni. Lake, in the Oural, 126.
Iloutrovsky, a village in Westeru Siberia,
133.
IltJibanaffsky gold mines. 119.
Iremt'l, a moun tuin of the Oural. distant
view of, 120; author travels toward, 124.
Tris, the, 316, 350.
Iron, vide Zavod. Large quantitiea of raair-
netic iron ore extracted from two hills
named Blagodat, 59.
Irtiash, Lake, extends from Elaslinskoi Za
vod nearly up to the foot of Mount Sugo
mac, 93.
Irtisch, the. a river of Western Siberia, 136 ;
large tnm uii near it, 136; characteristics
of this river, 136; view of lhe valley of
this river from the point at which the
River Narym falls into it, 180; midnight
voyage on the, 181 ; a strange species of
bark on, 182; author shipwrecked on, 183;
solitary ramble along the banks of, 185;
in aorae parts abounds in water-fowl. 186;
author observes camels feeding on the Kir
ghis side of, 187 ; the finest scenery On this
river found a little below the Bouohtarma,
187 ; author overtaken by a sudden squall
on, 191; its scenery compared with that
of the Bhine, 192; author bivouacs on,
194; tbe aspect of the country through
whieh this river runa undergoes a great
change below Tulovskoi SimoveS, 194;
this river the principal supply and only
outlet of tbe Lake Nor-Zaisan, 206.
Ischim, tbe, a river of Western Siberia, 134 ;
al-so a town, 135 ; also a steppe, 135.
Isbonac Khan, a Kirghis sultan, 437.
Isilkfou, a river in the Kirghis Stepp«, 210;
romantic scenery of, 210 ; a huge mass of
black basalt in the valley of, 210; author
meets with suspicious looking, strangers
in, 210; its bad character, 214; prepara^
tions for escorting gold through, 214.
Issetz, tbe. a river of Western Siberia, ris
ing in the Oural, 91 ; delightful voyage
dowu the, 128; cliaracteristics of, 130-
132. I

J.
Jasper fqund in tbe upper valleys of the
, Oural, 71 ; ofa great variety of colorN, 82;
majinificent tables made of, 82; author
finda some magniflcent specimens in a
ravine on the banks of the Irtiach, 191;
rocks of, 192; plum-colored masses of. ou
the ahorea of Lake Altin-Kool, 293; beau
tiful objecta formed at Kolyvan of, 298;
splendid specimens observed by the au
thor on the hHnks of tbe Mein, 314; in the
neighborhood ofthe Tcherney Beryl, 326;
large masses obtained from tbe Korgon
gorge, 347 ; particulars respecting the
workmen engaged iu these works, 347;
deep red iu the valley ofthe Eremil, 438.
K.
Kageka. a village on tbe Tehoussowaia, 40;
visit to the honse of the head man of, 40;
a conti-at of words at. 41.
Kai(-r Konmin. the. a river of Western Sibe
ria, 171; abounds in fish, 171.
Kalka-s the cnuntry of the, 347; author
visits tbe dwellings of some, 351; a chief
of tbe, 351; dr. mestic economy of tho, 352;
author visiUs Darma Tsyren. a celebrated,
356.
Kalmuck hunters. 101 ; their winter dwell
ings, 157 ; sacrifices made by thnni to tbeir
deity, 3H3; character and habits of those
inhabiting the Abbaye Steppe, 308; bold
horsemen, 335; a party of eeven in the
author's service, 348.
Knman, the, a river of Western Siberia, 128.
Kameuogorsk, vide Oust-Kamenogorsk.
Kamenskoi Zavod, author arrives at, 127;
the director's hospitality, 127 ; heavy ord
nance mannfactured at, 128; friendly re
unions at, 128.
Kara-ghi-kool, a picturesque lake amid the
Ehren-dick Mountains, 118; author en
counters a Serpent at, 118.
Kara-gull, Lake, 315 ; characterof the moun
tains which surround, 315 ; abounds in
flsh, 315; its great depth, 315.
Kara-Noor, L:ike, 367, 462.
Karaguy, the. a river of Western Siberia,
157; skel etona of Kalmuck winter dwell
ings on the banks of, 157.
Karaoul, the, a river of Western Siberia,
33^ ; pleasant bivouac beside, 332.
Karatal, the, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 452,
Karatas (Black Stone), the Cossack fishing-
station on the Lake Nor-Zaisan, 206.
Karatou, a chain of mountains rising ab
ruptly from the Kirghia Steppe, 445.
Karrarsou, the, a river of vYestern Siberia,
316.
Kaslinskoi Zavod, famed for the supeiior
quality of the castings produced there. 92.
Katchkanar, one of the Oural Mountninx,
44; distant views of, 47, 48; enveloped in
storm clouds, 49 ; splendid sun-light effects
ou the crags of, 49 ; author makes prepara
tions for the ascent of, 50; arrives at the
foot of, 52; author's ascent of, 54, 55; view
from the summit of one of its highest
peaks, 55; evidently a mountain in ruins,
55, 56.
Katounaia, the, a river of Western Siberia,
author resolves to visit, 298; author ais

478

INDEX.

rives at, 320 ; characteristics of, 320 ; author
fords it at its junction with the Tourgon,
331; author's party fords at a dangerous
point just above a succession of falls, 336,
337 ; sudden changes of climate on the
banks of, 337 ; glorious scenery visible
from, 337.
Kazan, a city of Russia, author arrives at,
18; picturesque effect of the Kremlin at,
18; nearly one half of this city burned
down in 1844, 18.
Kessil-bach-Noor, Lake, in Asiatic Tartary,
435.
Eessil-tas (Red-stone), a rock of red or brown
porphyry on the Kirghis Steppe, 241.
Kialim, the, a river of Westem Siiieria, 95.
Kiansk, a town in Siberia, 139; inhabited
by many Polish Jews, 139 ; attempt at
extortion at, 139 ; summary legal process,
139 ; bad character ofthis town, 139 ; aspect
of the country between it and Lakes Sar
tian and Tchany, 140.
Kirghis coachman, 124; the steppe guarded
by a line of Cossack posts and forts, 135,
147, 195, 196; domestic arrangements of a
Kirghis family, 203; the steppe on flre,
203; great robberies committed by the in
habitants of some portions of the Kirghis
Steppe, 208 ; interior of a Kirghis dwelling,
225-227 ; horror of rum, 230, 231 ; ball, 253 ;
bold horsemanship, 335; opiniou enter
tained by them ofthe Kalkas, 368; inter
view with Kirghis herdsmen, 383; extra
ordinary banquet, 386.
Kishtymsky Zavod, enormous ediflce there
called the Castle, 93, 94.
Kizil-tash, Lake, of conaiderable dimensions,
93.
Kliee, a Kirghis aoul, 206.
Koksa, the valley of the, 156, 306,
Kokstschinskoi, a Kalmuck village, 308, 339.
Kolmack-Tologuy, a mountain of the Altai,
200 ; tradition respecting, 200 ; flgures
carved on its summit by the Kalmucks,
202.
Kolyvan, formerly the chief town of the
government of Western Siberia, 146 ;
polishing works at, 298; also a Siberian
lake, 149.
Kooshwinskoi, a Zavod, a gay party at, 57 ;
interesting both to the geologist and the
artist, 59,
Kopal, the, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 454.
Korgon, a gorge in the Altai so named, 346;
large masses of jasper obtained from, 347.
Korolgo, the, a river of Oriental Siberia,
464.
Kc-^so-gol, Lake, extends from the foot of a
ridge of the Monko-seran-Xardick into
Mongolia, 469.
Koubaldos, a great robber chief of Mongolia,
403; shows signa of his ruling paasion,
404 ; some aspects of his home, 405 ; sus
picious proceedings of, 406; precautionary
measures taken by the author's party
against^ 412; misses his supposed prey,
414.
Koumis, a species of fermented liquor made
of mare's milk, 226.
Kourt-Chume Mountains, forming tbe fron
tier line between China and Siberia, 178.
Kouznetsk, a town of Westem Siberia,
272.

Krontikha, a Siberian post-station on th«
River Ob, 144.
Kroutoia, a large lake at, 135,
Kuma-tash, a mountain of tbe Oural, 119;
characteristics of the scenery around, 119.

Lakes: Ah-oosh, 115; Alakool, 441, 442;
Altin-Kool, 288-290, 296, 297; Argaai, 95;
Baikal, 471, 472; Chirtanish, 125; Gorkoi
Ozera, 141; Ikeougoun, 350; Ilmenskoi,
126; Irtiash, 92; Kara Noor, 3G7; Kara-
goll, 315; Kessil-bach-Noor, 435 ; Kosso-gol,
469; Kizil tash, 93 ; Kolyvan, 149; Krou
toia, 135; Noi^Zaisan, 200,205,206; Rao-
manskoi, 324; Salt, 232; Silatch, 92; Sugo
mac, 93; Tenghiz, 447, 448,452; Uvaldi,
95.
Lapidaries of Ekaterineburg, great skill of
the, 87, 89.
Lapis lazuli, search for, 470.
Larch-trees frequently struck by lightning,
305, 335.
Lava, a bed of, in Chinese Tartary, 382; im-
men.'se bed of, in the valley of the Oka,
459-462.
Leaning Towcr at Nevionsk, formerly used
as a silver refinery, 78, 79.
Lepsou, the, a river of Chinese Tartary, 445,
Lightning, grand effects ofl 274,307; trees
struck by, 305 ; larch-trees observed by the
author to be more frequently struck by
lightning tban others, 306.
Limeatoue, curious massea of jasper and
limestone on the banks of the River
Tehoussowaia, 25, 34; on the Yenissey,
459.
Lime-tree Hill, n mass of greenstone so
named, 64. M.
Mahomed, a celebrated Kirghis chief, 221;
author visits bis' aoul, 223; appearance of
himself and family, 224, 225; takes a sly
taste of rum, 231, 237 ; author cures him
of his growing fondness for spirit-drinking,
237.
Maias, tbe, a river of Western Siberia, gold
mines on the banks of, 95 ; delightful
fertility of tbe valley of, 95; author shoota
many double snipes on tbe banks of, 95;
author revisits, 125 ; the coimtry around,
126.
Major, Mr., an English mechanic employed
in the Oural, 105; his cleverness and
eccentricity, 105 ; his three pairs of stock
ings, 106; the Emperor Alexander's pre
sent to him, 106; his murder, 107; his
housekeeper's account of the circum
stances attending it, 108; discovery ofthe
murderers and their punishment, 110.
Malachite found in the copper mines of 'Sar
gilsk, 70; au enormous mass discovered,
70; worked into beautiful ornaments in
Ekaterineburg, 89.
Mantilla Rocks, a group on the Kirghia
Steppe, 221, 222, 223, 241, 242.
Marble, beautiful kinds of, on tbe shores of
Lake Altin-Kool, 304; in the Tangnou,
349; on the Yenissey, 459.
Marie Ivanovna, her appearance and repu
tation, 253; her inimitable dancing, 253.

INDEX.

479

Mein, the, a river of Western Siberia, 314;
character ofthe valley of, 314, 315.
Meteors, magnificent ones observed by the
author ia Mongolia, 409, 410.
Mines (vide " Gold," " Zavod"), platinum
mines near tbe crest of the Oural, 67.
Mining population of the Altai, excellent
character of the, 262, 263.
Mirage, 371, 400.
Mist, beautiful effects of sunshine and, 312.
Mitaban, a Kirghis dog possessed by tbe
author, 209.
Monastery Mountain, the, 196 ; author makes
a sketch of, 221.
Mongolia, the plains of, 368.
Mongolian dogs, conflict with, 428, 429.
Monko-seran-Xardick (eternal snow and ice),
a mountain of Oriental Siberia, 467.
Moorzinsky, a Siberian village, 178.
Morass, author falls into one, 64; two hours'
journey through a, 66; vain attempt to
avoid oue, 120; author's tarantass stuck
fast in one, 142, 143 ; author escapes from
a dangerous oue in Chinese Tartary, 431.
Moscow, road between St. Petersburg and
Moscow very bad, 14; author arrives at,
14; great festival in celebration of the
founding of, 14.
Mountains: reflections suggested by the
Altai, 310 ; Actou, 439 ; Alatou, 439, 447,
449; Altai (vide Altai); Amar-daban, 471;
Arkat, 220 ; Bielaya Gora, 71, 77 ; Bielouka,
168, 319-523, 329; Bogda Oola, 349, 421,
430; Byanjarouk, 455; Chesnooka, 176;
Cholsoun, 163, 164, 169, 173; Eagle, 1^3;
Ehren-dick, 118, 119; Gobi, 347, 379;
¦Ilmantou, 125; Iremel, 120, 124; Karar
tou, 445; Katchkanar, 47-56; Kolmack-
Tologuy, 200-202; Kourt-Chume, 178;
Kumatash, 119; Monastery, 196, 221;
Monko-seran-Xardick, 467 ; Nouk-a-daban,
466; Oural (vide Oural); Pavda, 53, 65;
Revnevaya Gora, 174; Seene Gora, 287;
Sugomac, 94, 95; Taganai, 100; Tangnou,
349, 353, 360; Tarbogatai, 202, 438; Tas-
kill, 459; Thian-Chan, 379, 420, 428; Ti
geretzkoi Belock, 337, 338; Ugen-tasch,
452; Ui-tash, 116, 118.
Mountain ash, uses made of its fruit, 338.
Mrassa, the, a river of Western Siberia, 275 ;
fury of its torrent, 275 ; serious mishap
met with by a gold escort on, 275-276;
character of the banks of, 276.
Mulla, a priest, 246.
Murchison, Sir R, I., hia description of the
geological characteristics of the Tehousso
waia, 70; his description of an enormous
mass of malachite fbund in the copper
mines ofthe Oural, 70.
Mursinsk, the precious stones of the Oural
found in tbe region around, 80.
Music, effective character of the Cossack
national, 253, 254.
Musquitoes, author much tormented by, 48,
49; an unusual plan for keeping tbem at
a distance, 49 ; music of the, 53, 56 ; au
thor's party compelled to change tbeir
place of encampment on account of, 66, 67.
N.
Nalifka (a cordial), delicious kinds of, manu
factured by Siberian housewivea, 27 ; made
of tho berries of the mount^n ash, 338.

Naryift, the, a river of Western Siberia, 179.
Narym, Great, 179; remarkable writtea
rocks to the north of, 179; description of
this fort, and character of the surrounding
scenory, 180,
Narym, Little, a small Cossack outpost sta
tioned near the Chinese frontier, 178.
Natch.ilnik (Director), the, of ' Ekaterine
burg, valuable assistance received by the
author from, 84; of the mines of the Altai,
resides at Barnaoul, 262; his functions,
262, 263.
Neviansk, one of the oldest zavods in the
Oural, 77 ; splendid caatle at, 77; leaning
tower at, 78, 79 ; extensive manufacture of
painted iron-ware and rifles here, 78, 79.
Nijne Toura, author dines with the director
of the works at, 46; excellent har iron
made from the magnetic ores of Blagodat
at, 48.
Nijne-Novgorod, historical associations of,
15; a disagreeable hotel in, 15; dinner
with the governor of, 16.
Nor-Zaisan, a lake on tbe Kirghis Steppe,
201 ; traditions respecting an ancient and
great people who formerly lived on its
banks, 201 ; effect of an east wind upon its
waters, 205; Cossack fishing-station on,
206.
Nouk-a-daban, a mountain in Oriental Sibe
ria, 466. 0.
Ob, the, a great river of Westem Siberia,
144; characteristics of, 144, 145,268; au
thor travels up the valley of, 145 ; magnifi
cent effects of color observed by the author
on the banks of, 259, 268; great numbers
of double snipes found during summer ou
the banka of, 268; the author has a day's
shooting on the Imnks of, 268, 269.
Oka, the, a river of Oriental Siberia, 459;
passes through an immense bed of lava,
469 ; dangerous passage across, 460 ; author
visits a black-lead mine in the valley of,
463,
Old sable iron, the best bar iron made in the
Oural, 72.
Omsk, the capital of Western Siberia, 109;
sale of stolen gold, 109; the chief of the
police in this city found to be a receiver of
stolen gold, 110.
Omament, new species of female, 246,
Orton, the, a river of Western Siberia, 276;
magnificent scenery at its junction with
the Mrassa, 277 ; difficulties attending its
navigation, 277.
Oslanskoi, a village on the Tehoussowaia, 43.
Ouba, the, a river of Western Siberia, 151,
254; highly interesting character of tho
scenery of the valley of, 151, 254; a
dangerous voyage across, 255.
OubsarNoor, Lake, 348, 349.
Ouemonia Yalley, the, grand character of its
scenery, 308; two villages in this valley
occupied by Russian peasants, 308; au
thor revisits, 339.
Oui-jass, a Kirghia chief, 398 ; treats the au
thor with great hospitality and respect, '
399 ; author revisits, 430 ; makes the au
thor a liberal offer, 430.
Oulan-koum, desert of, 349.
Oural, western slopea of the, 19; author

480

INDEX.

ascends to the crest of the chain, 65;
platinum mines near tbe crest of, 67 ; diffi
culty ofthe descent from the Oural on the
Asiatic side, 67; reasons for supposing
that this chain of mountains must, at some
remote period, bave been mucb higher
than they are now, 74.
Oust-Kamenogorsk, a town on the Irtisch,
195; the silver ore from Zirianovsky land
ed here to be forwarded in small boats to
the various smelting zavods, 195; a ball
at, 252.
Outka, the, a small mountain stream flow
ing into the Tehoussowaia at Outkinska-
Demidoff, 39 ; agreeable walk beside it, 39.
Outkinska-Demidoff, a pristan (wharf) be
longing to the works at Tagilsk, 38; the
valley of the Tehoussowaia extends here
from two to three versts in width, 39;
rapid change in this region from winter
to summer. 39.
Outkinskoi Pristan, author proceeds with an
officer of the mines to, 22; barks buUt at,
23 ; earthquake at, 24.
P.
Parrock (succe.'wion of falls), a, on the River
Katounaia. 335; author's party crosses
the stream just above, 336; auother, 338.
Partridge-shooting at Serebrianskoi. 45; in
the neitrhborhood of Barnaoul, 270, 271;
on the banks of the Tschugash, 343.
Pastoral life, intereating apecimen of, 228.
Paatures in Mongolia, 392.
Patrick, an Englit^hman employed in the
Oural, 111; his mysterious disappearance,
111. 112.
Pavda, the chief mountain of tbo Oural, sun
set view of. 52, 54.
Peacocks' feathers a mark of great distinction
among the Kirghis, 4-1:8.
Peasants, Russian, character of 172.
Pelican shot on the Mongolian plain, 367 ; in
Chinese Tartary, 425.
Perm, author arrives at, 19; an Englishman
director of the iron-works at, 49.
Perroffsky, General, possessed of one of the
flnest collections of ancient and modern
arms in the world, 97, 98.
Pe-shan, a volcanic peak in Chinese Tartary,
379, 431, 463.
Peter the Great sends Nikite Demidoff to
examine the mines in the Oural, 77.
Petropavlosk Belock, immense cedar forests
in the neighborhood of, 278.
Petropavlosky, a town of Westem Siberia,
tbe great mart for Aaiatic produce and
Kirghis cattle, 135; author passes a night
at the gold mines at, 277.
Petrovnaia, Anna, a famous Siberian hunt
ress, 101 ; her first exploit. 101, 102.
Pheasant-shooting in Mongolia, 375, 376,
410, 428,
Pines, dense forest o]^ 65; fond of a sandy
soil, 458.
Platinum mines near the crest of the Oural,
67, 70, 71.
Poplara in the valley of the Black Irkout,
469.
Porphyry found iu the upper valleys of the
Oural, 71 ; in tbe Alatou, 450.
Port wine, story of a man who made it in
Barnaoul, 266.

Precious stones of the Oural found In the
region around Mursinsk, 80; wherever
found in Russia the property of the em
peror, 88. Vide- Amethyst, Aquamarina,
Beryl, Emerald, Jasper, Lapis lazuli, Mal
achite, Marble, Quartz, Topaz, &c.
Precipices, dangerous rides along the edges
of, 168, 239; enormous onea in the valley
of the Irtisch, 191 ; a frightful one on the
Kirghis Steppe, 240; of slate rock on tlie
shores of Lake Altin-Kool, 292; gigantic
one in the Bi-tchuc-too valley, 317; of
Nouk-a-dahan, 468; of Monko-seran-Xar
dick, 469.
Preobrajenskoi, gold mine at, 124.
JQrices of the moro important articlea sold in
the market of Barnaoul, 266.
Priest, a Kalmuck, 303-304.
Primula, 163,316,323.351.
Prussacks, a small kind of cockroach, abound
on the banks ofthe Irtisch, 186.
Pyramid raiaed to commemorate the Emperor
Alexander the First's search for gold with
his own handa in the Oural, 103, 104; re
markable natural onc, 232.
Q-
Quartz, pure transparent, largo quantities
cut and engraved by the lapidaries of
Ekaterineburg, 89; hills of, on the Kir
ghia Steppe, 196; veins of beautiful rose-
colored, 240, 358, 369. R.
Racmanskoi, Lake, hot springs on tho shore
of the, 324; author bivouacs on tho shore
of the, 326.
Raspberries, a natural garden of, 333; much
frequented by bears, 333.
Reptchick (tree-partridge) shooting, 45, 270,
271.
Revnevaya Gora, a mountain of tbe Altai
range, 174.
Rifles, immense numbers manufactured at
Neviansk, 79.
Rivers: Abakan, 459; Acsou, 456; Ai, 96;
Angara, 470; Arakym, 157-161; Arriga,
313, 314; Balicsou, 283; Balicty, 449;
Bellousa, 285; Biela Beryl, 322, 324; Bi-
tchuc-too, 316; Bouchtarma, 176. 177,187;
Buch-a-sou, 464 ; Chealee, 293; Cora, 452,
453; Djabakan, 368. 372; Djem-a-louk,
461; Eremil, 438; Ezras, 285; Ilia, 438,
462; Irtisch, 136, 181,187, 191-193, 206;
Ischim, 134, 135; leilksou, 210; Isnetz, 91,
130, 131; Kaier-Koomin, 171; Knmnn,
128; Karaguy, 167 ; Karaoul, 333; Karatal,
452; Karbou, 296; Karra-sou, 316; Kur
tounaia, 298, 320, 330, 337; Kialim, 95;
Koksa. 305, 332; Kopal, 454; Korolgo, 464;
Lepsou, 445; Maias. 95, 96, 125; Mein,
314; Mrassa, 275, 276; Narym, 179; Ob,
14J, 145, 259, 268; Oka, 459, 463; Orton,
276; Ouba, 254, 255; Outka, 39,40; Sar-
cand, 455; Serebrianka, 43, 44; Syssert,
91 ; Tarsakhan, 441 ; Tash-kuturgun, 104;
Tcherney Beryl, 325 ; Tchernoy, 68 ; Tcher.
noy Irtisch, 435; Tehoussowaia, 22, 24. 25,
28, 30, 36, 42, 43, 44; Tchoulishman, 295;
Tchurish, 148, 299-301, 344; Tek-el-alrik,
453 ; TerricBOu, 451 ; Tess, 350, 360 ; Tetcha,
130; Tintecb, 452; Tobol, 134; Tom, 271;

INDEX.

481

Toura, 47, 48; Tourgan, 319, 320; Tschad- 1
jsrha, 451; Tschugash, 305, 311, 338, 340; '
Volga, 15, 18; Yeni.ssey, 458. I
Robbers, vide Bandits. I
Hocks, remarkable limestone, 25, 34, 36; I
picture.«que groups on the Kirghis Steppe, '
said to be the residence of tbe Prince of
Darkness, 229; of red and smy porphyry,
232; slate, 292; marble, 3U4, '6^9, 459.
Ilnm. a Kirghis chief's pretended horror
of, 230, 231; subsequently appreciated,
231, 237; new cure for over-fondness fur,
235.
Russian hospitality, pleasant instances of,
19,27.

Sabeck, a Kirghis Sultan, author arrives at
his pastures, 416; his courteous reception
of the author, 417 ; appearance of himself
and bis attendants, 418 ; his sultana and
daughter, 419 ; hia great wealth in horses,
camels, and cattle, 420.
Sacriflce made by the Kalmucks to their
deity, 303-304.
Saian Mountaina. 458; author visita the
higher region of the, 459.
Salaier, silver mines at, 287 ; character of
the scenery around, 287 ; coal discovered
In the neighborhood of, 288.
Salemerskoi family, the owners of the Sys
sertskoi Zavod, 91, 92.
Salsola plant, the, grows on the borders of
the salt lakes in Siberia, 220, 373, 397.
Salt lake, a, on the Kirghis Steppe, 232;
beautiful appearance of, 233, 373.
Salvia, deep blue, 31o.
Sand-hillocks. 374; cloud of 441.
Saouchkina, the vitluge of, 149.
Sarkha desert, thc characteristics of, 373.
Sarte-Tologuy, 200, 201.
Seene-Gora (Blue jVIountain), a mountain cf
the Oural, 60 ; almost wh<illy composed of
hornblende, 60 ; author makea a sketch
ing excursion to. 62. 63.
Semipolatinsk. a Siberian post-station, 458,
Serebrenaia, a Siberiau post-station, 136.
Serebrianka, the, a stream falling into the
Tehoussowaia, 43; picturesque scenery on
the thores of, 44; its banks present
highly interesting studies to the geologist,
44.
Serebrianskoi, a Zavod belonging to the
crown on the email river Serebrianka, 44;
author lodges in the houae ofthe direc
tor ofthe iron-works there, 44; a day's
reptchick (tree-partridge) sliootiiig at, 45.
Serfs, a great numher employed by govern
ment in the Slaved of iJkateriNebur^;, 86;
manner in which they are paid. S6.
Serpents, author encounters one at Kara-
gbi-kool, 118; a nest of. 118; numerous
on the Mongolian plain, 364 ; author
shoots an enormous one. 365.
Servants, author advised to ,hire one in
Ekaterineburg, 126; bire of a studynt [
from the Univer.<ity of Kazan, I'Zl ; effect j
of stories about robbers on one of the
author's, 220. Vide Chort. j
Sevelofskys, the genernla, their activity in I
investigating the circumstances attend- !
ing the disappearance of their miuiug ,
agent, Mr. Patrick, 112. (
31

Shadrina. a Siberian post-station, 259.
Shadrinskoi, a town in Western Siberia,
133; enjuys considerable prosperity. 133.
Shaidurikha, a village on the road from Ne
viansk to Ekaterineburg, 80.
Shaitan (t-e dfahle), a rock so named, 48 ; pic
turesque rocks on the Kirghis Steppe,
said to be the residence of, 229 ; another
dwelling of, 318.
Siberia, Admiral liiekardt gives the author
much information reapecting, 13; pass
port system in. 13; author determines to
apply to the emperor for special permis
sion to travel and sketch in, 13; trade
between China aud. 465.
Siberian biith, a. 46, 259.
Silatch, Lake, iu Western Siberia, 92.
Silver, that obtained in the Altai contains
small portions of gold and copper, 261,
262; smelting it fouud to be a very un
healthy occupation, 267 ; mines at Salaier,
287.
Skakiet, a Siberian game, a species of see^
saw, 58. 59.
Slate, vast beds of, ou the shores of Lake
Altin Kool, 292; green, 328, 331.
Smatrical, offlcer at a Siberian post-station,
131.
Snipes, double, author shoots many in the
valley of the River Maias, 95 ; very nu
merous on the banks of the River Ob,
267, 268; in the neighborhood of tha
Tangnou, 361.
Soimanofsky gold minea, 95.
Souk, a sultan ofthe Kirghis Steppes, 449;
a great robber, 449 ; sits for his portrait,
449.
Sousounskoi Zavod, in the valley of the Ob,
145.
Sphinx, mass of granite resembling a, 216.
Sportsmen, strangely attired, 270.
Spriugs. hot, 324, 325.
Springs in ravines, 45i, 455.
Squirrels in the valley of the Araguy, 158.
St. Dolomete, preat monastery of, 130.
Stearine. an extensive manufactory of, es
tabliahed near Ekaterineburg. 89.
Steppi'S. Fide, Chapt,ers X., XIIL, XV.,
XVIIL, XXIV., XXVUI.. passim.
Sugomac, a Sibwrlan Lake, 92, 93.
Sugomac, Mount, the last crest ofthe Oural
looking ovpr Siberia. 92, 93 ; more than
one hundred lakes to be seen from the
summit of, 95.
Sungarians. the country of the ancient, 387.
Swan shot on the Mongolinn plain, 367.
Syenite, remarkable rock of. 48.
Syasert, the, a Siberian river riaing in the
Ound. 91.
Syssertskoi Zjivod, the, description of, 91 ;
character of the country in the neighbor
hood of, 92. T.
Tableaux Vivants in Moscow, 14.
T.-igilsk. a Zavnd belonirins to the Demidoff
family, 67 ; author arrives at. 68; descrip
tion of. il8; excellent manner in which
the works are conduded at, 68 ; a factory
of sheet irou articlea formerly carried on
at. 71 : school nf de,sign at. 71.
Takovaya, the villatre of, magnifieont emer
alds found near, 87.

482

INDEX.

Talc hill of green, in Oriental Siberia, 465.
Tamchi-Boulac, a dropping spring at the
root of the Alatou, 456.
Tangnai (Mountains of the Moon), part of
thu Oural chain, 100 ; singular incident
which happened to an old woman in oue
of the valleys ofthe, 100-101.
Tangnou Mountains, the, author prepares to
visit, 349; trees found only iu the deep
valleys of, 350 : fine view of, 353, 360.
Tarantass, a Siberian, description of, 31.
Tarantulas, author meets lu Mougolia with
a colony of. 395.
Tarbogatai Mountains, 202, 438.
Tarsakhan, the, a river in the Kirghis
Sti'ppe, 441 ; danger attendant ou crossing
it, 44L
Tartar village, a. on the banks of the River
Tom, 273; merchant, 451.
Tash-kuturgun, a stream iu the Oural, near
which large masses of gold are found,
104.
Tii.'!-kill Mountains, the, author visits, 458.
Tavda, the, a river of Western Sit)eria, lOi.
Tchagan Tala, 349.
Tcherney Beryl, the, a river of Western Si
beria. 325 ; a portion of its course subter
ranean, 325.
Tchernoi Ozernaia, a Siberian post-station,
136.
Tchemoistot<?hinsk iron-works, author vis-
Its, 71, 72.
Tchernoy, a Siberian river rising in the
Oural, 68.
Tehimbar (Kirghis trowsers), make and
materials of :2,M.
Tchoubachack, a town on the Chinese fron
tier. 439,
Tchoulishman, the, a river of Western Sibe
ria, falling into Lake Altin-Kool, 295;
grand character of the scenery around it,
295.
Tehoussowaia, the, a river of Western Sibe
ria, ice breaks up on the, 22; scenery of,
24, 25 ; curious masses of jasper and lime
stone on the banka of, 25; immense ca
verns on, 28, 36; excursions on, 30; un
pleasant weather on, 43; the singular
course of the river through the moun
tains, 43; author concludea his voyage
on, 43; description by Sir R. I. Murchison
of the geological characteristics of the
shores of, 44 ; author's pleasing recollec
tiona of, 44.
Tchuck-arboi, a Kalmuck in the author's
service, 348 ; shoots a wild twar, 376.
Tchurish, a river of Westem Siberia, 148,
299; character of the scenery in the
neghborhood of, 299; author and his par
ty ford it, 300 ; unpleasant ride down the
valley of; 344.
Tea, a traveUer's eulogy on, 54 ; Asia is the
laud for, 185 ; with loaf-sugar, 219 ; a
ladies' tea-party, 246 ; made with brackish
water, 438.
Tek-el-airik, a river of Asiatic Tartary, 453.
Telaga, a species of four-whu-jled wagon,
63 ; mode of constructing, 121.
Tengiz, a lake in Asiatic Tnrtary, -152.
"\ Tcrrif'-sou, the, a river of A.siatic Tartary,
451.
^1 •J'^ the, a rivf»r of Mongolia rising in the
¦Cj.nguou, 350 ; cavern on, 359.

Tetcha, the, a river of Westem Siberia, ris-
ing in the South Oural, 130.
Tetery, a speciea of blackcock shot )iy tho
author on the Barabinsky Stepjie, 141 .
Thian-Chan (or Syau-Shan), the, the high
est mountains in Central Asia, 379; dis
tant view of, 420 ; characteristics of, 428.
Threahing, method in uso among the Kir
ghis, 266.
Tiger, traces of a terrible conflict between a
wild boar aud a, 432; capture of, 265.
Tigeretzskoi Belock, a mountain of the
Altai, 337.
Tinteck, the, a river of Chinese Tartary, 452.
Tmek-Tash, a rock on the Altin-Kool, "JOI.
Tobol, the, a river of Western Siberia, 134.
Tom, the, a river of Western Siberia, 271 ;
most of the inhabitants of the valleys of
this river are hunters, 273; a bonfire on,
283; picturesque character of its scenery,
284; beds of coal on the banks of, 284;
the riches of the valley of, 284, 285; a
beautiful evening voyage on, 286; spear
ing fish on, 287.
Tomb among the rocks, 37.
Tomsk, a town of Western Siberia, the go
vernor of it is at the bead of the admin
istration ofthe mines of the, Altai, 262.
Topaz found In Siberia at Alabaska and
near Maias, 88, 89.
Torrent, mountaiu, in the Altai, 325.
Toukalinsk, a small town of Western Sibe
ria, 135; difflculty of procuring small
change at, 136.
Toura. the, a river rising in the Oural,
pleasant drive along the valley of, 47 ;
Nijne Toura, a Zavod belonging to the
crtiwn. situated in the valley of, 4K.
Tourgan. the, a river of Oriental Siberia,
319; dangerous pasaage across. 320 ; fata.1
accident to a party of Chinese soldiers on,
320.
Tourinsk, author arrives at, 47; distant
view of the Zavod of. 48 ; a festival at, 67.
Tourmaline (Rose), found in Siberia at Sa-
rapul.ik, near Mursinsk, 89.
Touroumova, a Siberian post-station, 137 ;
author receives unpleasant intelligence
at, 137,
Tower, Leaning, at Neviansk, formeriy used
as a silver refinery, 78, 79.
Tsaravo-Nicholiovsky gold mine, 278; pecu*
liar gold-washing machines used at, 278.
Tschad jacha, the, a river of Chinese Tarta
ry, 451.
Tachiojmschanka, a village of Western Si
beria, 181.
Tschugash. tbe, a river of Western Siberia,
306; author overtaken by a storm iu the
valley of. 310; the mouth of, 338; author
bivouacs on the bank of, 339.
Tulovskoi SimoveB, tbe second winter sta
tiou on the Irtisch, 192; author spends
an unpleasant evening at, 193, 194 ; aspect
of the country below, 194.
Tumuli, ancient, near the River Irtisch,
136; near the River TJoucbtarma, 187; in
Chinese Tartary, 4i3: a lofty one on tbo
Chine,=o froiititr. 439; on the Kirghis
Steppe. 447.
Tursuoi, a Kirghis chief, 395.
Tushakalva. a \iliage of Western Siberia,
tine amethysts found near, 88.

INDEX.

483

u.
Ugen-Tasch, one of the crests ofthe Alatou,
origin of its name, 452.
Ui-Tash, a mountain of the Oural, 116, 118.
Uvaldi, a Siberian lake, 95.

Vashock, description of a, 15.
Venison, Kalmuck method of cooking, 308,
360.
Verkne Barantchinsk, Zavod of, 64.
Nerkne-Iasetzakoi, Zavod, of, belongs to the
Yakovlif family, 90.
Verkoturia, a town iu the Oural, 101.
Vessok-gora, a hill neai- Tagilsk, from wbich
magnetic iron ore has been extracted from
very remote periods, 60.
Violet, sweet-scented, among the mountains
of the Altai chain, 323.
Vis6iii.o Chaitan.skoi, a Zavod belonging to
A, Demidoff, near the crest of the Oural.
on the western side, 64 ; author makes an
excur.'^ion to, 64, 65,
Vladimir, author passes through, 15 ; pic
turesque appearance of, 15.
Volcanic agency, traces of, on the banks of
the Tchou.Hsowaia, 25 ; crater, 317 ; in the
valley ofthe Djem-a-louk, 462.
Volcano, extiuct, 196; Baron Humboldt
mistaken witb respect to one said to exist
in an island on the Alakool, 442.
Voiga, inn on the banks of The, 15 ; a seri
ous accident happens to the author on tbe
banks ofthe, 17. W,
Wall, remarkable and ancient stone, 231.
Watch, Kirghis ideas respecting the au
thor's, 249.
Water, fresh, how estimated in the desert,
375.
Waterfall, extremely lofty one on the shores
of Lake Altin-Kool, 293, 294; on the
River Karbou, 296; a succession of, on the
Katounaia, 336, 338 ; a magnificent one in
the Actou, 456 ; iu tbe valley of the Djem-
a-louk, 461, 462.
Werchnayan Pristan, author arrives at, 182.
Whirlwind, author nearly caught in one on
the Kirghis Steppe, 242.
White Irkout, 468.
Widricka, a Siberian postrstation, 254.
Wolves, author aeea several in the valley of
the Ouba, 256; ou the plaina of Mongolia,
361; desperate battle with, 362, 363; a
vigilant look-out for, 367.
Workmen, method of bringing refractory
ones to reason, 273.

Wrestling in Siberia, 67,

Yabagan Steppe, the, 343 ; unpleasant ride
across, 343.
Yakovlif, the family of, owners of the Zavod
and mines of Neviansk, 79 ; dispute be
tween them and the Demidoffs respecting
the boundary-line of their several proper
ties, 79,
Teljin-so-gash, the, a river of Chinese Tar
tary, 442.
Yenissey, the, the largest river in Oriental
Siberia, 458.
Yepta, a Kalmuck hunter in the author's
service, 322, 323, 324.
Yourt, a Kirghia dwelling, descriptiou of,
225; furniture and fittings, 225, 226.
Z.
Zabata-Nor, a mountain tarn of great depth
in the Tangnou, 349.
Zarevo-Alexandroffsky, a valley of the Ou
ral, large masses of gold found in, 103;
the mines of thia region received especial
attention from the Emperor Alexander
the First during his visit to the Oural,
103.
Zavod (iron-works), vide Barnaoul, Cynow
skoi, Goirieovsky, Kamenskoi, Kaslinskoi,
Koly\an, Kooshwinskoi, Neviansk. Nfjite
Issetzskoi, Ngne Tagilsk, Pavlovsky,
Syssertskoi, dousouoskui, Tchemoistot
chinsk, Tomsky, Tourinsk, Werkne Issetz
skoi, Zirianovaky, Zlataoust, Zmeinogorsk.
Zircon, crystals of, found near the Ilmen
skoi Lake, 123.
Zirianovsky, a Zavod of tbe Altai range,
173 ; author's reception by dogs and men
at, 173 ; fine views from, 174 ; position
and characteristics of, 174; richness of its
silver mines, 175; want of proper engines
for keeping them clear of water, 175.
Zlataoust (tjolden Mouth), a Zavod onthe
banka of the Ai, 96 ; author enters it
duriug tbe celebrutiuu of a groat festival,
96; the Sheffield and Birmingham of tbe
Oural, 96; one ot the best and mo^t ex
tensive manufactories of arms in Kurope,
97 ; excellent museum tbere, 97 ; the an
cient art of damascening arms rescued
from oblivion there, 97.
Zmeinogorsk, the richest silver mine in th«»
dominions of tbe Russian emperor, 150;
author is detained by sickness at, 150 ;
author revisits. 257 ; rough adventure
met with by the director of thia Zavod,
257, 258.

THE END.

J LIST OF VALTIABLZ AND FOFUtAK HOOKS.
TBAVELS & BESEAEGHES OF
UI UBS
UJifDs of 8outf) Africa

This is a -work of thrilling adventures and hair-breadth
Bscapes among savage beasts and more savage men. Dr.
Livingstone was alone, and unaided by any white man,
traveling with African attendants, among different tribea
and nations, all strange to him, and many of them hostile,
and altogether forming the most astonishing book o'
travels the world has ever seen. All acknowledge it ia
the most readable book published. Price f 1.25.
NOTICES OF THE PRESS.
It akonnds 'i aescriptions of strange and wonderful scenes, among a people and in ¦
•onntry entirely new to the civilized world ; and altogether we regard it as one of th<
most interesting books issned within the past jea-i.—Daily Democrat, Pattiraon, Sat
The snb^ects treated of are new and strange, and take a deep hold upon popnlar feel
ing. Tho book is haying a great rnn, and will be read by eyery reading man, womaa,
¦ad child, in this as well as other \a,niB.—Ae)UaMaa (Ohio) Telegraph.
TTiose of onr readers who wonld haye a delightfnl book for reading at any honr, WlU
Mt be disappointed in this work.— United States Journal.
This interesting work shonld be in the hands of every one. Its interesting pages M
^ventures are full of instruction and amnsement. — Alj&um American.
With tmth we can say, that seldom Is presented to the reading public a work ooa.
Mining snch a vast amount of solid instruction as the one in question. — Jbntity Hagm'
It i> a rich ana 'alnable book for the general reader ; and the admirable style In.whleA
Ibe publisher has issned It, will commend It to the fkvor of thousands.— CSrirttoB
This Is a yalnable work for the general reader, gotten up in beautifnl style. A special
iaierest U giyen to this volume by the addition of valuable " Historical Xotices ot Pi».
•eyeries in Africa." Altogether, it wonld be difflcnlt to name any work which wouW
¦ore eoiin)letely meet the popnlar taste of our day. Those of our Wends who have
perased "our" copy, speak very highly oflt. — Port.Edward Tnat. Monthl/y.
The present volume is a beautiful 12mo., of 446 pages, numerously illustrated, a^
¦ontains all of 'he original, except some of the more dry, scientific details. It Is •»•
VhatieallT an edition for the people ; and, judging from the rapid sale witb wbteh 1^ •
MMilng, it la fnllj »pp^•^»ted bj them.— Cari»Mr~ fVneman. Bontnv

H UST 0? VALTJABLE AND POPULAB BOOKS.
T. S. ARTHUR'S WORKS.
IThe following List of Books are all written by T. 8. ABTHim, tha
well-known author, of whom it has been said, "that dying h* kcu
not written a word he would wish to erase." They are all gotten ip
iu the best style of binding, and are worthy of a plaoe in erer/
honsehold.] 
TEN NIGHTS IN A BAR-ROOM,

This powerfully- wri tten work, one of the besthy its pvpular AuOior,
has met with an immense sale — ten thousand copies having been
ordered within a month of publication. It is a large 12mo., illus
trated with a beautiful Mezzotint Engraving, bySarfain; printed
on fine white paper, and bound in the best English muslhi, gilt
Dack. Price $1.00.
The following are a few of the many N'otices of the Press.
Powerful and seasouable. — if". T. Independent.
Its scenes are painfully graphic, and fnruish thrilling arguments for the temperance
lause. — Norton'a Literary GazeUe.
Written in the author's most forcible and vigorous style. — Lehtffh Valley Times.
Xn the "Ten Nights in a Bar-Room," some of the consequences of tavern-keeping, the
"sowing of the wind" and "reaping the whirlwind," are followed hy a "fearful con^
KJumation," and the " closing scene," presenting pictures of fearful, thrilling interest.
—Am. Courier.
There is no exaggeration in these pages — they seem to hare been filled up from actual
rbserration. — PhiladeVphia. Sun.
We have read it with the most Intense interest, and commend it as a work oaUulated
ko do an immense amount of good. — Lancaster Express.
We wish that all lovers of har-rooms and rum would read the book. It will pay them
richly to do 80. — N. Y. Northern Blade.
Itis sufficient commendation of tbis little volume to say that It ia from the graphic
pen of T. S. Arthur, whose works will be read and reread long after he has passed
ftvay. He is as tme to nature, as far as he attempts to explore it, as Shakspeaje
himself; and his works, consequently, have an immense popularity. — New Haven
Palladium. T>iere are many scenes unequaled for pathos and beaaty. The death of little Mary
-4UI warcely be surpassed. — N. T. Some Journal.

WHAT CAN WOMAN DO?
Iftmo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  Price $1.W
Onr purpose is to show, in a series of life pictures, what woman can do, as well fes
Eod as for evil We desire to bring her before you as a living entity, that you may sai
e as she is, and comprehend in some small degree the influence fdie ifrielda in th«
«rorld*B progress upward, as well as her power to mar the human eonl aud drag it dowP
4r perdition, wHen hez own spirit Is darkmed by f-*i •"•-aion" — -ew«-«w /rvm i*m
k ffMS.

LIST OF VALUABLE AIO) FOFTTLAS BOOKS.
T. S. ARTHUR'S WOUK.e—ConHn'ued.

OR,
RELIGION IN COMMON LIFE.
Wm,  ll.OC
NOTICES 07 THE PRESS.
Ii panders to the doctrines and tenete of no p&rtlcnlar sect, and will be found an ezceK
lant book to place in the hands of yonng people. — Savannah Oeorgiath
It is a work well calculated to do good, and to put into the hands of ^nie youth of the
¦onntry. — Enquirer.
This work will Incerest the reader, and at the eame time teach lessons of praotioal
talue.— Cft. Messenger^ Vi.
It is designed to show that the beauties and endearments of Christianity are to be
developed amid the etern realities of every-day life. — Vermont Messenger.
It is a timely and goocL book, aim shonld be widely read, especially by yonng Chris-
Hans — (Entred Oh. Herald^ Cincinnati.
Mr. Arthur is already well known aa an eamest man, whose objeet has been to do
hie part in spreading the doctrines and teachings of the-Christian religion ; and in the
present volume he urges the necessity of charity, and endeavors to impress upon the
reader the fact that religion is for daily life, " and cannot be put aside at the tranquil
elose of Sabbath evenings." — Courier and Enquirer.
More decidedly religioua in its character than Arthur's other works, though it ll
aeither doctrinal nor sectarian. — Oh. TimeSy Chicago.
The peu of T. S. Arthur nev^ tires. In this new volume, we preceivo that he Is
still laboring s nccessfnlly in y odncing brief stories, the aim of which is moral. He
B&ys truly, when he declares ,Lat "no special theology is tanght in this volume," by
which he means, we suppose, that controverted dogmas are not introduced. His main
point is, "Beligion, to be of any real nse toa man, must come down into all Ma. daily
duties, and regulate his actions by a divine standard." — Exd;er News LeUer.
No special theology is taught in this volume. It addresses itself to no particular sect
or denomination. It has no aim but to assist men to grow better, and thence, happier.—
^aiem Oazette.
Arthur has produced few more satisfactory books thaa this. — Atlas and Bes.

THE HAND WITHOUT THE HEART;
OB,
THE LIFE TRIALS OF JESSIE LOEING,
Pric«, --.----.-. $1,00
The point of this story is esrpresaed in the title ; and the story Itself is a sharply drawa
tUastration of the folly and madness of linking together two immortal eonls by thh
»oagh chains of selfish interest, pride, er baser passion. The lesson tanght is one of
isep signiflcance ; and thousands of heans wiH throb In almost wild response, to the
Uie experiences of Jessie Loring, who in all the hitter trials of her unhappy unloo,
nmved not a hair's breadth from honor, principle, or religions duty, though temptadon
•ame in Its most alluring shape. As the type of a true woman, she is worthy to b«
NBbalmei la the memory of every re&deT.— Southem Argus.

THE lome UDI AT BOMB.
t voii. la am. - ^  Frio*, fl 99

10 LIST or VALTTABLE AITO FOFVLAR BOOKS.
T. S. ARTHUR'S WO 'RKS— Continued.

ARTHUR'S SKETCHES
or
IIFB AND OBARAOTBR
B ootavo volume of over 40C pageSy beautifully Illustrated, an
bound ill the best English muslin, gilt. Price $2.00.

MOTICES OF THB PBESS.
The present volume, containing more than fonr hundred finely-printed octavo pagea
Is iUustrated by splendid engi>avinga, and made particularly valuable to those who hk«
feo "see the fkce of him they talk withal," by a correct likeness of the author, flnely en-
^aved on steel. — NeaVs Gazette.
In the princely mansions of the Atlantic merchants, and in the rnde log cabins of ths
backwoodsmen, the name of Arthur is eqnally known and cherished as the Mend of
rittue. — Graham*s Magazine.
We would not excliange our copy ef these sketches, with its story of " The Methodist
Preacher," for any one of the gilt-edged and embossed Annuals which we have yet seen.
~Lady''s NatiOTial Magazine.
The first story iu the volume, entitled " The Methodist Preacher, or highta and
Shadows in the Life of an Itinerant," Is alone worth the price of the work. — Evening
BuUetin. It la emphatically a splendid work. — Middletown Whig.
Its worth and cheapness should place it in every person's hands who desires to read
an interesting book. — Odd Fellow^ Boonsb(yro\
"The Methodist Preacher," *' Seed-Time and Harvest," "Dyed In the Wool," are ful]
»f truth as well as Instmction, and any one of them is worth the whole price of the
rolnme. — Loioell Day-star, Bev. D. 0. Eddy, Editor.
There is a fascination abont these sketches which so powerfhlly Interests the reader,
Ihat few who commence one of them will part with it till It is concluded \ and they will
bear reading repeatedly. — Norfolk and Portsmouth Herald.
Those who have not perused these model stories have a rich feast in waiting, and we
shall be happy if we can be instrumental in pointing them to It. — FamUy Visitor
Madison^ Ga.
No library for family reading should be considered complete withont this volume
which is as lively and entertaining iu its character, as it is salutary in its influence.—
N. ¥ Tribune.
The work ia beautifully illustrated. Those wno are at all acqualoted with Arthur's
writings need hardly be told that the present work is a prize to whoever possesses it.—
N. T. Sun.
We know no better book for the table of any family, whether regarded for its ne*
•Kterlor or valuable contents. — Vox PopuH, Lowell.
The name of the author is in itself a sufficient recommendation of the work.— £a«»
pgmes SenUmL
T. 8. ArthoT is one of the besi Uterary writers of the age. — Watchmant OirelevttU
flUo. The name alone of the author is a aufflcient guarantee to the reading publie of its sai
passliig merit.— T^ Argus Gallatin, Miss.
Probably he has not written a line which, dying, he conld wish to erase. — Pairksr*
ktrg (Va.) Gasette.

THE WITHERED HEART.
Ufau*., with fine Mezzotint Frontispiece. Cl«th  Frio* tl.OV
Thiif work lias gone through seTeral editions in England althoagh
pHblisfaed but a few weelcs, and haa had the most flattering cotioei
1 om the English Press

LIST or VALUABLE AWD POPTILAE BOOKS. U
T. S. ARTHUR'S W ORK S— Continued.

fights anb S^abofos of |leal fife.
W(th an Autobiography and Portrait of the Author. Ov«r fivi
kundred pages, ootavo, with fine tinted Engravings. Prioe 62.00.
NOTICKS OF THK PRKSS.
Ia this volume m^y be found a " moral suasion/' which cannot but affect for goo4
all who read. The mechanical execution of the work is very heauciful throughout. -•
Wea Haven PaUadiivm.
It is by far the most valoable book ever pnblishf^d of his works, inasmuch as It la ea*
riched with a very interesting, though brief autobiography. — American Courier.
No family library is complete without a copy of this hoSk. — 8cott*s Weekly Paper.
No better or worthier present could be made to the young ; no offering more pnr^
eharitable, and practicable could be tendered to those who are interested iu the tmly
aenevolent reforms ofthe day. — Oodey^s Ladyes Book.
The paper, the engravings, the binding, and the literary contents, are all calculated
ko make it a favorite. — Penn. Inquirer.
This volume cannot he too highly recommended. — JV. T. Tribune.
More good has been effected, than by any other single medium that we know of.—
N. T. Svn.
The work should be upon the centre-table of every parent in the land. — Nationa^
Temperance Magazine.

LEAVES FROM THE BOOK OF HUMAN LIFE
Large 12mo. With Thirty IUustrations and Steel Plate. Price $1.00
(^ single story is Trorth tlie price charged for the book.— ZTnfon, Ifewbvjryptyrt, Mass
" It indades some of the best hmuoroas sketches of the author. "

The following Boo^ks are bound in uniform style as "ARTHUR'S
COTTAGE LIBRARY," and are sold in sets, or separately, each
volume being complete in itself. Eaoh volume is embellished
with a fine Mezzotint Engraving.]
THE SJ^ATZ" TO n^OSI'EK,,
AND OTHER TALES.
Cloth, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  Priee $1. Of

TRUE RICHES; OR, WEALTH WITHOUT WINGS.
AND OTHER TALES.
lotk, 12m*. with Mezzotint Engraving,  Prioe $1.0^i

ANGEL OF THE HOUSEHOLD
AND OTHER TAI E«.
<a«tli, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraviug, ..  IHwe $?. W

la LIST OF VALTJABLB AND POPTILAK BOOKS.
T. S. ARTHUR'S W 0 R'S. S— Continued.

GOLDEN GRAINS FROM UFE'S HARVEST-FIELD.
Bound in gilt back and sides, sheep, witli a beantifal Mezzotint Ba
graving. 12mo. Price $1.00.
NOTICES OF THE PRESS.
It Ib not too much to say, that the Golden Orains here preaented to the reader, an
ach ae will be productive of a far greater amount of human happineas than those la
tearch ef which ao many are willing to risk domestic peace, health, and even life itsel
In a distant and inhospitable region.
These narratives, lilce all of those which proceed from the same able pen, are re*
markable not only for their entertaining and lively pictures of actual life, but for theii
admirable moral tendency.
It is printed in excellent style, and embellished with a mezzotint engraving. Wa
eordially recommend it to the favor of our readers. — Qodey^s Ladyes Magazine,

I The following four volumes contain nearly 500 pages, Illustrated
. with fine Mezzotint Engravings. Bound in the best manner, and
sold sep«irately or in sets. They have been introduced into the
District, Sabbath-school, and other Libraries, and are considered
one of the best series of the author.]
THREE ERAS IN A WOMAN'S LIFE.
Containing MAIDEK, YiriFE, and MOTHER.
Cloth, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  Prioe $1.00
**This, by many, is considered Mr. Arthur's beat work."
TALES OP MARRIED LIFE.
Containing L.OVERS and HUSBANDS, S1VEETHEARTS and
WIVES, and MARRIED and SINGI.E.
Gloth, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  Prioe $1.00.
" In this volume may be found some valuable hints for wives and busbands, as wel
.Athe young."
TALES OF DOMESTIC LIFE.
Sontaining MADEIiINE, THE HEIRESS, THE MARTTB
WIFE, and RUINED QAMESTER.
Cl«th, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  .Priee $1.00
Ooatains several sketches of thrilling interest."
TALES OF REAL LIFE.
eoBtalnlng BEL.I. MARTIHf, PRIDE and PRIXCIPL.E, MARI
EI.I4IS, FAMILY PRIDE, aud ALICE MELiVIIiliE.
Cloth, 12mo., with Mezzotint Engraving,  Frio« $1.06.
" fkls volurae gives the experiences of real life by mauy who found not tfaeir Ideal

LIST OF VALUABLE AND POPTTLAB BOOKS. 13
T S. ARTHUR'S W ORK S— Continued.

A BOOK OF STARTLING INTEREST.

TE& ami AND THE DMON.
A handsome 12nio. volume. Price $1.00

In this exciting story Mr. Aethob has taken hold of the reader'i
attention with a more than usually vigorous grasp, and keeps him
absorbed to the end of the volume. The book is one of STAET
LING INTEREST. Its lessons should be
IN THE HEART OF EVERY MOTHER.
Onward, with a power of demonstration that makes conviction a
necessity, the Author sweeps through his subject, fascinating at
every step. In the union of
THRILLING DRAMATIC INCIDEIIT,
with moral lessons of the highest importance, this volume standa
forth pre-eminent among the author's many flne productions.
BTOTICEB OP THB PBESS.
A story of mnch power, Imbued with that excellent moral and reUgious spirit w^ch
pervades all his writings.— jr. T. Chronicle.
This volume is among his best productions, and worthy of a place on every centre.
l»We.— CSarftMt, Pa., Banner.
This is a most fascinating book, one which the reader wiU lud it quite hard t« Uj
I withont reading to the last page.-^»a»3^, y. T., Journal and Cornier.

THE GOOD TIME COMING.
liAige 12mo., with fine Mezzotint Frontispiece  Price $1.06
't la Uke every thing emana*lng from that source— worth reading.- SW«&) Slade.
It is oharacterized b. »U the excelleneies ofhls style."— Pftito BvUeUn.
ti is a boek the most wmpnloua patent aay jitM la she hand of his child— Pn
btuM Tnauer^-

U LIST OF VALTTABLE AND POPTJLAB BOOKS.
T. S. ARTHUR'S W 0 RKS— Contmued.
The Old Man's Bride,  Price $1.0
Heart Histories and Life Pictures, - " 1.0
Sparing to Spend; or. The Loftons and
Pinkertons,  " 10
Home Scenes,  " 10

¦ 4 *¦•'<

liii ^mm mmm^mEmk^

OF

Two vols, in one. By Gen. S. P. Ltman. Pi ice $1.00.
EXTRACT FROM PREFACE.
The Personal Memorials, which compose so large a portion of
these volumes, are from the pen of Gen. 8. P. Lyman, whose inti
mate and confidential relations with Mr. Webster aff'&rd a sufficient
guarantee for their authenticity. They are believed by the publisher
to embrace a more copions collection of original and interesting
memoranda, concerning the life and character of the great States
man whose recent death has created so deep a sense of bereavement
khrooghont the country, than has hitherto been given to the world.

COOK'S YOYIGES ROUND TH[ WORLD.
Two volumes in one, -  Price $1.00

LIST OF VALUABLE Aim POFULAB BOOKS. 15
THE MASTER-SPIRIT OF THE AOE.

TIIE PUBLIC AND PRIYATE HISTORY
OF
NAPOLEON THE THIED

Biographical Notices of his most Distinguished
Ministers, Generals and Favorites.
BY SAMUEL M. SMUCKER. A.M.
knthor of "Conrt and Beign of Catharine II.," "Nicholas I., Emperor of Bussla,''
"Lifeof Alexander Hamilton," etc., etc.

This interesting and valuable work is emhellished with splendid
Steel Plates, done hy Mr. Sartain in his hest style, including
THE EMPEROR, THE EMPRESS, QUEEN HORTENSE,
AND THE COUNTESS CASTIGLIONE.
The work contains over 400 pages of closely-printed matter, and
has been prepared with muoh oare from authentic sources, and fur
nishes a large amount of information in reference to the Emperoi
of the Frenoh,
HIS COURT, AND FRANCE UNDER THE SECOND EMPIRE,
which is entirely new to American readers. This work is the only one,
•ither in EngUsh or Frenoh, whioh boldly and accurately describes
THB REAI. CHARACTER, THE PRIVATE 9IORAI.S, THK
PUBLIC POLICY, OF NAPOLEON THE THIRD.
Oopies sent by mail on receipt of the price, $1.25.
NOTICES OF THB PBESS.
ThlB il a very valuahle contribution to the literatnre of the present time. An extra
BTdlnary amount of information is given in the present volume. Like all the othei,
worka «f the graceful and fluent author, it must command a very large popularity.—
^mfa^mo^c'^iele biography of the French Emperor yet published, and bringt
nenie iovn to fhe piesent time.— Baltimore Bepiaiiean.
This beok is well written, printed on good paper, is neatly bound, good siae, and aold
ike>.v-—Valleu Spirit, Ohamberslmrg. a ., . ,
Tb-a woAdoes full and ample justice to the subject. It is a prodMtion of superio.
ability. Mr. Smucker is an accnmplished writer. He is learned and accurate in hi.
^searches, and his style is polished and scholarlike, so that he produces worka of tv
ong ralae and permanent mterest.— PhUadelpMa Diapatch

LIST OF VALUABLE AOT) POPULAB BOOKS. 17

 J M fill el
AMONG
THE! I IST ID I -A. INT S-
BY JOHN FEOST, LL.D.
COMPRISINa THB MOST EEMABKABLK
Personal Narratives of Events in the
Early Indian Wars,
AS WELL AS OF
INCIDENTS IN THE RECENT INDIAN HOSTILITIES IN
MEXICO AND TEXAS.
Illustrated with over 300 Engravings, from designs by W. Croome,
and other distinguished artista. It contains over 500 pages
12mo. Bound in cloth, gilt back. Price, $1.25.

I>-A-3SrO lEl A. JS/L JiL.
OP
THE OLD WORLD AND THE NEW
COMPRISINa
& View of the Present State of the Nations of the Worlt.
their Names, Customs, and Peculiarities, and their Political,
Moral, Social, and Industrial Condition.
aterspersed with Historical Sketches and Anecdotes, by Wn.LiAh
PniHocK, author of the Histories of England, Greece, and Rome.
Enlarged, revised, and embellished with several hundred En
gravings, including twenty-four finely-colored Plates, from design!
of Croome, Devereux, and other distinguished artists. It cen-
tains ove>'v630 pages, bound in embossed morocoo, giV bauK.
Price 32.75

LIST 07 VM.1TABLE AND FOFXTLAR BOOKS.

19

THE

emiE FIELDS or the revolutioh.
OOUFBISINO DEgCBlPTIOlra OF THB
Different Battles, Sieges, and other Events of
the War of Independence.
INTERSPERSED ^¥ITH CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTES.
Illustrated with numerous Engravings, and a flne Mezzotint Frontig
piece. By Thomas Y. Rhoads. Large 12mo. Price $1.00.

COISTTBISTTS

The Sergeant and the Indians.
Buming of the Gaspee.
The Great Tea Riot.
The First Prayer in Congresa.
Battle of Lexington.
Fight at Concord Bridge.
Capture of Ticonderoga.
Battle of Bunker's Hill.
Attack on Quebec.
Attack on Sullivan's Island.
The Declaration of Indepen
dence.
Firmness of Washington.
Capture of General Lee.
Capture of General Prescott.
General Prescott Whipped.
Battle of Trenton.
Battle of Princeton.
General Lafayette.
Battle of Brandywine.
Battle of Germantown.
Battle of Red Bank.

Burgoyne's Invasion — Battle of
Bennington.
Heroic Exploit of Peter Fran.
Cisco.
Andrew Jackson.
Siege of Yorktown — Surrendei
of Cornwallis.
George Rogers Clarke.
Death of Captain Biddle.
Patriotism of Mother Bailey.
The Dutchman and the Rake.
Simon Kenton.
The Murder of Miss M'Crea.
Massacre at Wyoming.
Treason of Arnold.
Patriotism of EUzabeth Zane.
Stony Poiut.
John Paul Jones.
Battle of King's Mountain.
Buming of Colonel Crawford,
Battle of the Cowpens.
Baron Steuben.
Mrs. Bozarth.

PIONEER LIFE IN THE WEST
Pomprising the Adventures of Boone, Kenton, Beadv, Clabks, Th«
Wheiibis, and others, in their Fierce Encounters with th« la
dians. Priee 11.00.

20 LIST OF VALUABLE AND POPULAB BOOKS
[The following two volumes by S. M. Smuckeb, Esq., have had 4
large sale, and are considered the best Biographies of these great
statesmen published. Eaoh is illustrated with a fine and correct
Steel Portrait. The Life of Hamilton has been reviewed by hi*
son, now residing near New York, who speaks of it in the highest
terms.]
THE LIFE AND TIMES OF THOMAS JEFFERSON.
By S. M. Smpokeb, A.M., author of " Life and Reign of Nicholas I.
Emperor of Russia," &o., &o. Large 12mo. of 400 pages. Cloth
With fine Steel Portrait. Prioe $1.25.
%\t pe anb iiuies of ^kanber familton.
By S. M. Smdcker, A.M., author of "Life and Reign of Nicholas 1.,
Emperor of Russia," &c., &c. Large 12mo., with Portrait. Ove«
400 pages. Price $1.25.

^mm mmmm siiii

ca

THB BLESSINGS OP AN OPEN BIBLE; aa shown in the His
tory of Christianity, from the Time of our Saviour to the Present
Day. By Vincent W. Milner. With a View of the latest Develop
ments of Rome's Hostility to the Bible, as exhibited in the Sand
wich Islands, iu Tuscany, in Ireland, France, &c., and au exposi
of the absurdities of the Immaculate Conception, and the Idola
trous Veneration of the Virgin Mary. By Rev. Joseph F. Bebo
D.D., author of "The Jesuits," "Churoh and State," &c., &o'.
12mo., 430 pp. Illustrated with numeroua Engravings. Bonnj
in muslin, gilt back. $1.00

THE WORLD IN A POCKET BOOK.
By William H. Cecmp. New Revised Edition, brought iown t«
1858. Price $1.25.
This work ia a Compendium of Useful Knowledge and General
Reference, dedicated to the Manufacturers, Farmers, Merchants,
and Meehanics of the United States — to all, in short, with whom
time is money — and whose business avocations render the acquisi
tion of extensive and diversified information desirable, by the short
est possible road. The volume, it is hoped, will be fonnd worthy
ot a plaoe iu every household — in every family. It may indeed b«
u.iiied a library in itself.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

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