¦•jpfl". v In m& YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 06773 721/' Ww a ^- GUIDE CARMARTHEN NEIGHBOURHOOD WILLIAM SPURRELL 'M : C armarium PRINTED BY W. SPURRELL, KING-STREET RIDCCCDXXXII EIGHTEEN PENCE GUIDE CARMARTHEN NEIGHBOURHOOD WILLIAM SPURRELL jyife4 Carmarifuit PRINTED BY W. SPURRELL, KING-STREET MDCCCPXXXII CONTENTS. introduction ... ... ... .... ... 1 History and Antiquities ... ... ... ... 2 Carmarthen in 1610 (Map) ... ... ... 12 Civil and Social Condition ... ... ... ... 17 Streets ... ... ... ... ... 22 Churches and Chapels ... ... ... ... 23 St. Peter's Church ... ... ... ... 23 St. Peter's School-Church ... ... ... ... 31 St. David's Church ... ... ... ... 31 Christ Church ... ... ... ... ... 31 Llanllwch Church ... ... ... ... 32 English Wesleyan Chapel ... ... ... ... 32 Ebenezer, or Welsh Wesleyan Chapel ... ... 32 Lammas-street Chapel ... ... ... ... 33 Union-street Chapel ... ... ... ... 33 Elim Chapel ... ... ... ... ... 33 Lammas-street Congregational Chapel ... ... 33 Priory-street Congregational Chapel ... ... ... 34 Water-street Chapel ... ... ... ... 34 Zion Chapel ... ... ... ... ... 34 Penuel, or Priory-street Chapel ... ... ... 34 Tabernacle ... ... ... ... ... 35 Lammas-street Baptist Chapel ... ... ... 35 Park y Velvet (Unitarian) Chapel ... ... ... 35 Roman Catholic Chapel ... ... ... 35 Other Public Buildings ... ... ... ... 36 The Shire Hall ... ... ... ... 36 The Carmarthen Public Booms ... ... ... 37 The Carmarthen County and Borough Infirmary ... 37 The Lunatic Asylum ... ... ... ... 38 Her Majesty's Prison ... ... ... ... 39 The Market-place and the Slaughter-house ... ... 39 Picton's Monument ... ... ... ... 40 Illustration ... ... ... ... ... 40 Nott's Monument ... ... ... ... 42 Welsh Fusiliers' Monument ... ... ... ... 43 V. CONTENTS. Educational Establishments ... ... ... ... 44 Carmarthen Grammar School ... ... ... 44 The Presbyterian College ... ... ... ... 48 The South Wales and Monmouthshire Training College ... 49 The Charity Schools ... ... ... ... 50 Walks, Country Strolls, and Excursions ... ... 50 The Parade ... ... ... ... ... 50 The Pond Side ... ... ... ... 51 The Five Fields ... ... ... ... ... 52 The Bulwark ... ... ... ... 52 Cwmoernant ... ... ... ... ... 53 Penlan Hill ... ... ... ... 53 The Cemetery ... ... ... ... ... 54 Mount Pleasant ... ... ... ... 54 Llangunnor Hill ... ... ... ... ... 54 Abergwili ... ... ... ... ... 55 Merlin's Hill ... ... ... ... ... 57 Pen yr Allt Fawr ... ... ... ... 58 Llangyndeyrn Lime Kocks ... ... ... ... 58 Kidwelly ... ... ... ... ... 59 Mynydd y Gareg ... ... ... ... 61 Llanstephan and Ferry-side ... ... ... 61 Llanybri . . ... ... ... ... 62 Cwrn ... ... ... ... ... 62 Laugharne ... ... ... ... ... 62 Pendine ... ... ... ... ... 63 Llanddowror ... ... ... ... ... 64 Conwil ... ... ... ... ... 64 Clawdd Mawr ... ... ... ... ... 65 GarnFawr... ... ... ... ... gg Pencader ... ... ... ... ... gg Grongar Hill ... ... ... ... gg Dynevor ... ... ... ... ... gg Llanarthney ... ... ... ... g8 Dryslwyn Castle ... ... ... ... ... gg Middleton Hall ... ... ... ... gcj Nelson's Monument ... ... ... ... 69 Golden Grove ... ... ... ... 70 Careg Cenen Castle ... ... ... ... 71 Preselly Top ... ... ... ... 73 Communication with other Towns ... ... ... 73 The " Oldest Inhabitant " ... ... ... 74 The Bidding ... ... ... ... ... 80 CARMARTHEN. Carmarthen is situate on the north side of the river Towy, about sixteen miles from its entrance into the Bristol Channel; and is the chief town of the county to which it gives its name. The town presents no peculiar attraction to strangers : it is not remarkable for any wonderful deviation from what is usual in nature, nor has art made it famous by the erection of anything singular or stupendous ; yet it possesses many minor attractions which taken in the aggregate invest it with interest. The name Carmarthen, or Caerfyrddin as it is called by the Welsh, is popularly supposed to be derived from the celebrated Welsh sage, Myrddin Emrys, or Merlin Ambrosius, who flourished here about the middle of the fifth century. It is, however, older than the age of Merlin; and antiquaries are pretty well agreed that it is formed from the Welsh words, caer, mor, din, signifying a fortified seaport ; caer (Latin, castrum) being represented in English by caster, cester, Chester, and din by dun, don, town. The second syllable is by some taken to be mur (Latin mums), a wall ; but the probabilities are in favour of mor (Latin, mare), the sea, of which myr is an old plural form. The Latin name Maridunum (of Antoninus), and the Greek Mouridounon (of Ptolemy), are formed from the original name ; to this has been prefixed, somewhat pleonastically, the syllable caer, which like din means a fortified place. Caer, however, implies the enclosure of the stronghold : din refers to its situation: a walled city, dinas gaerog, was often "set on an hill." It was the practice of the Romans to Latinize the names of British towns by adding the termination um, and those of persons by adding us or a : thus Moridin or Myrddin became Merdynum or Maridunum; Efrog, or Caerefrog, York, Eboracum; Caswallon, Casstvelaunus ; Caradog, Caractacus ; Buddug, Boadicea, &c. Caer-fyrdd-ddyn, the citadel of ten thousand (from myrdd, a myriad ; dyn, a man), a derivation assigned to the word in the old Welsh chronicles, is merely a linguistic conceit. 1 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. Little is known of the early history of Carmarthen. The Romans are said to have reached this neighbourhood in 52 a.d., and to have founded a station here as early as a.d. 70, the site of which is supposed to have been occupied by the castle and out works. A few time-worn relics of the castle now remain, which are incorporated with Her Majesty's Prison. The north-western gateway and portcullis, flanked by two circular towers, are still entire, but are obscured from public view by buildings which have sprung up since the castle was used for warlike purposes. They may be seen from the entrance to a yard behind Nott's Monument. Welsh records ascribe the founding of the town to Macsen Wledig (the Welsh appellation of Magnus Clemens Maximus), born in Spain, an officer in the Roman army in Britain, who revolted against the Emperor Gratian and was proclaimed emperor by the soldiers, a.d. 383. He invaded Gaul with a large fleet and army, and near Paris defeated Gratian, who fled to Lyon, where he was assassi nated. Macsen is said also to have founded Haverfordwest and Carnarvon, and to have first colonized Brittany with Welshmen. Two sections of the Roman road, the construction of which is attributed to Sextus Julius Erontinus, Roman governor of Britain, a.d. 75, converged at or near Carmarthen, on the south side of the Towy — the Via Julia Maritima and the Via Julia Montana. Their point of junction is probably near the little village of Pensarn (the end or head of the causeway), about a quarter of a mile from Carmarthen bridge. Remains of the coast Line are observable above the village, and the road leading from that suburb to the bridge is still known as the Sarn. According to Theophilus Jones, the learned author of " The History of the County of Brecknock," the old road branched off in two directions at Brynbuga (Usk) : the coast line, passing through Caerleon, Cardiff, Boverton, Neath, Loughor ; and the inland road< having stations at Abergavenny, Caer in Cwmdu, Caer Banau (near Brecon), and Llys Brychan (Dyifryn Ceidrych, in Llanddeusant parish), and joining the coast line, south of the Towy, near Carmarthen. Another road, passing north of the Towy, with stations at Narberth, Carmarthen, and Llanfair ar y Bryn (near Llandovery), extended from St. David's to Cwm Llanyre (near Llandrindod, Radnorshire), where it joined the road from Cardiff to Chester, which intersected the Via Julia Montana at Caer y Banau. A remarkable entrenchment opposite to the mansion of Rhyd y Gors (bog-ford), supposed to have been formed for the defence of the ford, communicated some little distance beyond Pensarn with the Via Julia ; and possibly Tstrad takes its name from a portion of road or strata communicating with the ford on the right side of the river, which road it has been conjectured was met by another passing north of Carmarthen to St. David's at a place called Barnau (causeways), about five miles below Carmar then. A Roman encampment is marked near Sarnau on the HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 3 ordnance map of the county. The term Sarn Helen, applied by the Welsh to some of these roads, has been explained by some authorities as referring to Elen, or Helen, a British princess, daughter of Coel Godebog, King of Britain, mother of Constantino the Great ; others make it Sarn Lleon, the Oaerlleon (Chester) road ; and others, Sarn y Lleng, the road of the Legion who formed, it. Some entrenchments adjacent to the town — one in two fields behind the Gas Works, and another in Pare y Bulwark, a field at the lower end of Little Water-street, which has been recently levelled during the building of houses on the spot, now called Erancis-terrace — are believed to have been formed by the same warlike people ; but probably they are remains of works recorded to have been constructed in 1645, to defend the town against the incursions of the " Penbrockshire men." The bridge is sometimes said to be a Roman structure, and to have been built on dry land, the course of the river being afterwards turned under it. There appears to be no authority for the tradition ; but it is not improbable that a bridge has been maintained here from very early times, and that the river was diverted perhaps more than once during its construction, forming a piece of water south of the Bulwark, formerly misnamed the Island. This pond, which when frozen over was a favourite resort of skaters, has been recently filled up. The bridge at present standing is at any rate of unquestionable antiquity. It was originally built of small stones ; but it has been widened several times, as may be seen by examining its arches. There is a record that it was made six feet wider in the year 1777, the arch nearest the north bank of the river having been rebuilt two years before. The thoroughfare has, within the memory of many of the inhabitants, been widened so as to include the angular recesses over the buttresses, into which foot passengers retired out of the way of horses and carriages. Roman coins%nd other relics have been found in the neighbour hood of the town. A domestic Roman altar was lately preserved at the Vicarage ; and a public Roman altar, which the writer saw dug out of the ground about fifty-five years ago, a little below the conduit which stood to the south of the Priory-street entrance to St. Peter's Churchyard, was placed inside the gate, where it for some time remained, and was afterwards removed to the lawn in front of Ystrad. In later times Carmarthen became the residence of the Princes of South Wales, during whose occupation the town and castle were objects of frequent attacks, being taken and retaken on several occasions, often with considerable bloodshed. On the division of Wales by Rhodri Mawr into the three dominions of North Wales (or Gwynedd), South Wales (or Deheubarth), and Powis, in 876, the seat of government of the Princes of South Wales was removed from Carmarthen to Dynevor, as a place of greater safety and strength. The royal seat for North Wales was at Aberffraw, in Anglesey; that for Powis at Mathrafael, in Montgomeryshire. 4 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. In 1021, Hywel and Meredydd, two Welsh chieftains, sons of Edwyn ab Einion, aided by an army of Irish Gaels who had landed on the coast of Pembrokeshire, marched to Carmarthen, where they were encountered by Llewelyn ab Seisyllt, the reigning Prince of Wales, and completely routed ; but Llewelyn was slain in the conflict. In 1113, Carmarthen Castle was assaulted unsuccessfully by Gruffydd ab Rhys ab Tewdwr; but in the "17th of Harry 1st (between August 1116 and August 1117), he took Carmarthen from the Elemings, and Kidwelly from William de Londres* Rhydderch, baron of Ysterlys, corruptly Derllys, was one of those who defended Carmarthen against Gruffydd ab Rhys: .his son Meredydd and Owain ab Caradog were also engaged in its defence." In an unsuccessful assault on the castle by Gruffydd, Owain, who with Welsh allies defended it and saved it for the king, lost his Life. It is recorded that the town was sacked and destroyed on this occasion. Gruffydd held a festival of forty days' duration at his palace in Ystrad Tywi, in 1136, to celebrate his restoration to the throne of South Wales. Every Welshman who chose to come was invited. He died the same year. The Elemings here referred to, having been driven from their country by an inundation (a.d. 1 1 06), settled in the hundred of Rhos in Pembrokeshire, by permission of Henry I., " who," as a Welsh author says, " was liberal enough with what was not his own." A second immigration took place in 1113. After obtaining a footing in the country, they spread south.- ward as far as the ostiary of the Towy, where they approached offshoots of kindred adventurers who somewhat later colonized Gower. They were at first planted in the north-east of England ; but it suited the policy of the English to transfer them to Wales, as useful allies in suppressing the struggles of the Welsh for freedom. There is even at this day a marked difference between the provincial English of the descendants of th.6 Flemish — the people of "Little England beyond Wales" — and the speech of English-speaking people of Welsh descent. In 1137, the castle was destroyed by Owain Gwynedd, a few years after which event it was rebuilt by Gilbert de Clare, sur- named " Strongbow," Earl of Pembroke. It was again destroyed by the sons of Owain in 1143. In 1145, Carmarthen Castle was besieged by Cadell, Meredydd, and Rhys, sons of Gruffydd ab Rhys, Prince of South Wales, and Hywel ab Owain, to whom it was surrendered on the bare condi tion that the garrison should not be put to the sword. Cadell after this victory repaired and strengthened the fortress. Llanstephan Castle was also taken by them at the same time. Thirteen years afterwards, Carmarthen, having fallen into the hands of Henry II., was again besieged by Rhys ab Gruffydd, who was obliged to abandon his enterprise. He was opposed by * William de Londres, son of Maurice de Londres, and grandson of the above- named, was keeper of Carmarthen Castle, Jan. 21, 1209. HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. O Rheinallt, illegitimate son of Henry, with a vast number of Nor mans, Elemings, English, and Welsh. Having left the castle, he assembled his men on a "mountain called Cefn Rhestr. There were encamped at the castle of Dinweleir [Dynevor?], the Earl of Bristol, the Earl of Clare, two other earls, Cadwaladr ab Gruffydd, Hywel, and Cynan, with an immense host of cavalry and infantry." Not daring to approach him, they offered him a truce, which he accepted. "Rhys ab Gruffydd (ab Rhys ab Tewdwr Mawr) got Dinevawr and Cantref Mawr in the 9th year of Henry II. [1163], and in the 10th, all Cardigan: in the 11th, he razed Cardigan Castle." In 1189, he besieged Carmarthen Castle, but the siege was raised by Prince (afterwards King) John. In 1196, he took the town and castle, burning the town to the ground. This Rhys ab Gruffydd, who is usually called the " Lord Rhys," met Henry II. at Ty Gwyn ar Daf and at Laugharne in 1171 and 1172, and concluded terms of peace with him, accepting the office and title of Chief Justice of South Wales. He died April 28 or May 4, 1 1 97, and was buried at St. David's Cathedral, or as others say at Strata Elorida Abbey, which he had built. Rhys probably died of the plague, which prevailed in the Crusaders' camp before Acre in 1189, and drove Henry VI., Emperor of the West, out of Italy, in 1194. The epidemic which carried him off is thus referred, to in "Brut y Tywysogion" — "Y bu dirvawr dymestl o uarwaeth ar hyt ynys Prydein oil a theruyneu Efreinc, y vu farw aneiryv or bobyl gyffredin a divessured. or bonedigyon ar tywyssogion."* The annual tribute of three hundred wolves' heads, said to have been imposed on the Welsh by Edgar, who died in 975, had not the immediate effect of completely ridding the country of wolves ; for in 1166 a rabid wolf entered the town of Carmarthen and bit twenty-two persons, most of whom died in consequence. In 1188, Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, attended by Giraldus de Barri, better known as Giraldus Cambrensis,f preached the third Crusade at Carmarthen, among other places in South Wales. He crossed the Towy above Llanstephan, probably as Giraldus did, in a coracle, the form and make of which Giraldus describes. In 1214, the bailiffs and burgesses of Carmarthen burnt their * " There was a mighty tempest of death over all the island of Britain and the limits of France, an infinite number of the common people died and an immensity of the gentry and princes." f This remarkable man was the son of William de Barri, a Norman of distinc tion, by his wife Angharad, daughter of Nest, daughter of Bhys ab Tewdwr, Prince of South Wales. He was Archdeacon of St. David's, Brecon, and Llan- daff, and refused several bishoprics and the archbishopric of Cashel, wishing to obtain the see of St. David's, to which, according to Bishop Burgess, he was elected " after the death of his uncle, David Fitzgerald, and again after the death of Peter de Leia, but the election was on neither occasion admitted by the King, nor confirmed by the Pope." His wish is said to have been frustrated by the jealous influence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. He was born at Manor- beer Castle in 1146, and buried at St. David's Cathedral. b HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. own town to defeat the design of Rhys ab Gruffydd, grandson of the Lord Rhys. In 1221, Prince Llewelyn ab Iorwerth won Carmarthen Castle from William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, then in Ireland ; where upon the earl, landing at St. David's with a large army, marched to Carmarthen, and recovered possession of the castle. Gruffydd ab Llewelyn, coming from Kidwelly, which he had previously set in flames, having been informed that the magistrates of that town had a private design of betraying him to the enemy, was met by the earl, and a fearful battle ensued, which was undecided at night, when the earl retired over the river ; and some days afterwards Gruffydd retreated for want of provisions. In 1233, Richard Marshall, Earl of Pembroke (brother and suc cessor of William Marshall, who died April 21, 1231), having entered into a confederacy with the Welsh, under Maelgwn Eychan, Owain ab Gruffydd, and Rhys Gryg, who are said to have made a bridge over the Towy, laid siege to Carmarthen. The garrison held out for three months ; and the English fleet having brought in reinforcements and fresh provisions, he was compelled to raise the siege. It is recorded that Henry de Turberville came up the river in a vessel, broke down the bridge, causing several persons to be drowned thereby, and succoured the town, slaying a great many of those engaged in beleaguering it. There is a record that " the bridge of Caermarthen was broken" in 1223. Probably the bridge destroyed by Henry de Turberville was that constructed by Maelgwn and his associates. In 1244, Dafydd ab Llewelyn ab Iorwerth set the town of Car marthen in flames. In 1246, Meredydd ab Rhys sacked Carmarthen; in retaliation, it would appear; Nicholas de Molyn, seneschal of Carmarthen, having invested Dryslwyn Castle. By a grant made by Henry III., dated February 14, 1254, the castle of Carmarthen, with those of Disserth, Rhuddlan, Tygonwy, Montgomery, Builth, and Cardigan, were given to his eldest son, Prince Edward. On Wednesday in Whitsun-week, 1257, a numerous force under Stephen Bauson (Bancon, Bauzon, or Bauthon) and several other barons entered Carmarthen, and passed the night in the town. They were reinforced by a body of men who landed there the same week, sent by the English king to aid Rhys ab Rhys Mechyll, who unpatriotically allied himself with them, provoked by what he deemed injustice on the part of his uncle, Meredydd ab Rhys. The barons were probably Nicholas Lord of Cemmaes, Patrick Lord of Kidwelly, and a Lord of Carew (Karriw), who, with the above-named Stephen Bauson, had in the previous February, on the Monday next after the Purification of the Blessed Virgin, with a large body of armed soldiers, broken into, desecrated, and spoiled Whitland Abbey, stabling their horses in the church, beating the monks, and killing some of their servants sacrilegious crimes with which the Welsh princes, notwith- HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 7 standing their endless dissensions, were not chargeable. The combined forces, horsed and fully armed, set out the next day to devastate the Vale of Towy, and reached Llandilo, though not without opposition. On Friday the Welsh surrounded them, shout ing for vengeance. Meanwhile, Meredydd ab Rhys Gryg and Meredydd ab Owain, grandsons of the Lord Rhys, had assembled their adherents from Cardigan and Ystrad Tywi. Next day, being Saturday ("die Sabbati "), the Vigil of the Holy Trinity, Rhys ab Rhys Mechyll fled privately to his castle at Dynevor, with some of his men, leaving his allies in great danger ; and the marauding barons, alarmed at the threatening attitude of their foes, attempted a retreat to Cardigan, pursued by the Welsh, who harassed them on the way, captured their horses, arms, provisions, and baggage, near Coed Llangathen ("Coed Llathen"), and profiting by their acquaintance with the intricacies of the country, assailed them from thickets and other advantageous positions, alluring and driving them into bogs and dingles. About mid-day the English, fighting their way, had come to a place called Cymmerau ("Kemereu"), where the Welsh, attacking them with irresistible fury, and hurling the leaders to the earth from their panoplied steeds, crushed and cut to pieces their whole army, trampling the mailed soldiery beneath the horses' hoofs,* and leaving more than three thousand Saxons dead on the ground. The site of this terrific slaughter has been identified by the late learned and ingenious vicar of Llangathen, and afterwards of Llangammarch, Breconshire, the Rev. David Lloyd Isaac, as lying to the north of the Llandilo road, between Castell y Gwrychion, Cefn Melgoed, and Hafod Neddyn. Mr. Isaac refers to several suggestive names occurring in the neighbourhood ; as, Cae-dial, field of vengeance ; Cae yr Ochain, field of groaning ; Cae-tranc, field of dying ; Llain-dwng, slang of oath ; Congl y Waedd, corner of shouting. The name Llethr Cadfan (battle-place declivity) has supplanted that of Cefn Melgoed ; and the descriptive name Cym merau (confluent streamsf) has disappeared — the streams remain, but the name has given place to Stephanau, a non-Celtic name for the "muddy brook which is commissioned to tell from century to century the tale " of the retribution which overtook Stephanus Bauson and his vandalic associates. In the month of May or June, 1287, Carmarthen was pillaged and burnt to the gates by Rhys ab Meredydd, Lord of Ystrad Tywi, who having taken offence at treatment he had received from the officers of Edward I., among other acts of defiance, desolated at the same period Swansea, Oystermouth, and Llanbadarn Fawr. In 1403, Owain Glyndwr, who, goaded by the wrongs inflicted * " Wallenses cum Dei auxilio inter armatis Anglicis irruerunt, et de equitis armatis inclitos Saxones viriliter prostraverunt, et eos sub pedibus equitum, peditum, et equorum in moris et in fossis et in vallibus conculcaverunt." — Annates. f The union of two streams may be viewed either as a cymmer. confluence, conflux, or junction, or as an aber, efflux, outflow, mouth, or place of discharge. 8 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. on his nation, had risen against its oppressors, first seized the estates of Lord Grey, of Rhuthyn, who had taken possession of a common which Owain held by the decision of a court of law, and then assailed the possessions of Henry in the south. On the 6th of July he took Carmarthen Castle, and burnt the town, slaving more than fifty persons. In this enterprise he was accompanied by Henry Dwn, Rhys Gethin, Rhys ab Gruffydd ab Llewelyn, and Rhys Ddu. Owain was entertained at Dryslwyn Castle by Rhys ab Gruffydd, and slept there on the night of July 4. In 1405, the castle was again taken by Owain Glyndwr, who was supported by 12,000 men, under Marshall de Montmorency, whom King Charles VI. of France had despatched to Milford in his aid. Owain, gradually driven from the south by vastly superior forces, and repulsed in a daring descent on Shropshire, eventually withdrew to the mountain fastnesses of Carnarvonshire, where he died on the 20th of September, 1415, at the age of 65, having maintained the unequal contest for fifteen years, during which he fought forty- seven pitched battles. Like Caradog, who withstood the power of imperial Rome for nine years, he has left a name to which his country refers with pardonable pride. " In Snowdon's caves a prophet lay: Before his gifted sight The march of ages passed away With hero footsteps bright ; But proudest in that long array Was Glyndwr's path of light." — Heinans. Trefgarn, his grandfather's house, an old mansion near Haver fordwest, is pointed out as Owain's birthplace. A grand eisteddfod was held at Carmarthen in 1451, under the patronage of Gruffydd ab Nicolas of Dinevor. Gwilym Tew and Dafydd Nanmor were the successful competitors. The rules of the Welsh metres (Dosbarth Caerfyrddin) were determined on this occasion. Gruffydd, who was grandfather of Sir Rhys ab Thomas, was a man of great influence in the principality; and being of a "hott, fine, cholerrick spiritt," he was often involved in quarrels with his powerful neighbours. Among his antagonists were the Duke of Buckingham, Richard Duke of York, from whom he withheld a piece of land in Herefordshire, and Jasper Earl of Pembroke, who had intrigued to deprive him of the command of Cilgerran Castle, which he held under the king. Gruffydd having peremptorily refused to obey a summons to answer the complaint of the Duke of York, Lord Whitney was commissioned, in 1441, to apprehend him, and proceeded to Carmarthen for that purpose. Owain ab Gruffydd, however, discovering the nature of his lordship's mission, and seeing him put the warrant in his sleeve, contrived to possess himself of it ; and his lordship, not being able to produce his authority to the mayor of Carmarthen, was obliged to return without executing his business. Though frequently engaged in disputes with the English powers, Gruffydd HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 9 joined the Yorkists and fought with them against Jasper Earl of Pembroke at the battle of Mortimer's Cross (February 2, 1461), whither he led nearly eight hundred chosen men, and where he was mortally wounded, dying in the hour of victory. Owain Tewdwr fell in the same battle. During the struggle against Charles I., Carmarthen Castle, having fallen into the hands of the Parliamentarians, 1644, was the same year retaken by the Royalists under Colonel Charles Gerard, when it and the town were garrisoned under Colonel Love lace. It was, however, recovered by the Parliamentarian forces under Major-general Rowland Laugharne, to whom it surrendered, October 10, 1645. According to England's Worthies, that "most noble and victorious commander Sir Thomas Fairfax" took "the Towne and Castle of Carmarthen " in 1645 ¦[?]. Laugharne, being deprived unjustly, as he contended, of the chief command in South Wales, renounced his allegiance to Parliament, and joined the Royalists. He seems to have had reasonable ground for dissatisfaction, as will be seen from the following extract from England's Worthies (published 1647, the year before General Laugharne's defection): — "This noble and brave spirited Com mander [General Laugharne] having thus now most compleatly cleered that whole County of Pembroke of all its Enemies, the Parliament in way of thankfulnesse, and as a gratuity and en couragement, and trophie of honour, for all his famous and faithfull services, made him Major General! of all South Wales, and be stowed upon him all the estate of one John Barlow of Sleebridge Gentleman, a desperate Malignant and Popish enemy to the Par liament, and to his heyres for ever." Having been defeated with great slaughter by Colonel Thomas Horton, at the bloody battle of St. Pagan's, May 8th, 1648, he retired to Pembroke Castle, where he and Colonel Poyer surrendered, July the 11th, to Crom well, who besieged that fortress for about two months. Laugharne and Poyer, and Colonel Powell who had surrendered at Tenby, were sentenced to death; but the severity of the sentence was mitigated. Cromwell sent an order to draw lots which one of the three should die. Two of the lots bore the words "Life given by God : " the third was blank. A child 'drew the lots, and Poyer was the victim : he was shot in Covent Garden, April 25, 1649, "not without suspicion that the lots had been purposely so arranged, in consideration of the valuable services which Laugharne and Powell had previously rendered to the parliament." The castle was dismantled by Cromwell in 1648 and remained in a dilapidated state from that time, the keep only being used as a prison; and in 1789-92, the County Gaol was built on a part of its site. A breach in the castle walls, said to have been made by the Parliamentarian cannon, was conspicuous from the bridge before the building of the high wall now forming the south-east boundary of the gaol. A small intrenched position, near New- comb-last, in the parish of Llangunnor, is supposed to have been formed by an outpost of Cromwell's army when it laid siege to 2 10 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. the castle. The following copy of the title-page of a sermon preached at St. Paul's, in 1645, will illustrate the state of public feeling during these disturbed times : — "Eeall Thankfulnesse: OR, A SERMON PEEACHED In PAVLS Church LONDON, Vpon the second day of November, 1645. At a Publike Thanks giving for the taking in of the Towns and Castles of Caermarthen and Mon mouth in Wales, it being the first Lord's day after the inauguration of the Eight Honourable Thomas Adams now Lord Major of that famous city. By Simeon Ash, Preacher at Basingsliaw, London, and one of the Assembly of Divines. " Psal. 50. 14. Offer to God thanksgiving, and pay thy vows unto the most high. " Psal. 50. 23. Who so offereth praise, glorifieth me, and to him that order eth his conversation aright, will I sliew the Salvation of God. '¦'¦LONDON, Printed by G. Miller for Edward Brewster at the, Bible on Ludgate-hill neer Fleet-bridge, M.DC.XLV." The town of Carmarthen suffered severely from that dreadful scourge, the plague, which a few centuries ago ravaged this country, in common with others on the continent. In 1604, it experienced a severe visitation of the pestilence, which in 1606 again prevailed to so great an extent that the great sessions were that year held at Golden Grove instead of at Carmarthen. It re-appeared or had not disappeared in 1611 : one of those that died of it in that year was Evan Long, mayor of the town in 1606. The last visitation on record was in 1651, when it broke out with. terrible virulence on the 25th of May, sweeping away whole families. The mayor elect, David Edwardes, Esq., was that year sworn in at Rhyd y Gors, his own residence, not in the Town Hall, according to ancient custom. The pestilence at this time seems to have continued its ravages for a lengthened period. One John Hughes, father it is believed of Stephen Hughes, a pious and benevolent vicar of Mydrim, writing from Carmarthen on ono of these occasions, says that he had been shut up in the town for ten months ; that all who could leave the town went away, and that those who could not were reduced to a frightful condition. There was a legal provision that the bodies of persons dying of the plague should, probably for sanitary reasons, be buried wrapped in flannel. The mortality occasioned by small pox was often very great. From entries in the parish register, which distinguish the deaths from that disease in the period between July 22, 1722, and March 9, 1723 (230 days), it appears that in the case of 104 burials registered, no fewer than 71 deaths are attributed to small pox; leaving 33 to other causes. The burials for the corresponding periods (of 230 days) in 1720-21 and 1721-22 were 33 and 34 respectively; so that the mortality for the period in question in 1722-23, as shewn by the register, was three times that of each of the corresponding periods in the preceding two years ; and the excess in the number of burials is as nearly as possible accounted for by the deaths from small pox. In the 54 days ending Decern- HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 11 ber 9, 1722, there were 57 burials, 49 of the deaths being ascribed to small pox, and 8 only to other causes. It may be inferred from a comparison of the entries in the register that small pox or some other fatal disorder prevailed in the years 1684, 1729, 1733-34, and 1742. In 1729, the number registered was especially excessive, being 28 more than those of 1728 and 1730 put together. The following table gives the monthly totals of the entries for the years referred to, with those for the years immediately preceding and following each : — eob- NlOCOHHT^iOrHCOCO^iQ i— 1 i— 1 i— 1 i—( OS O(MI>^0000fflil>C0(N>0W-Hi-HpHCM-*(MCOi-ICOiC U%S %*& 3 9 R v u£M o cs •a*EH cj Of the visitations of cholera from which this country suffered, Carmarthen escaped the first, 1832. The second, and most generally severe, occurred in the years 1848-49. On the 9th 12 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. of August, 1849, a coroner's jury returned a verdict of "Asiatic cholera" upon a death which occurred in Steam-mill-yard; other juries having, with it is believed a view to prevent panic, described the pestilence in milder terms. Seven deaths took place in the same yard in four days. The disease re-appeared in 1866. The following deaths from cholera or choleraic diarrhoea were registered in that year, being 14 males and 44 females : — Date Male Female Ages Date Male Female Ages Aug. 17 3 42. 68, 47 Sep. 18 2 82. 94 „ 20 3 26, 63, „ 19 2 73, 1 5 months ., 21 Y 66 „ 21 2 60, 34 „ 23 T 37 „ 22 T 8 „ 26 ... 1 68 „ 23 2 20, 5 Oct. 2 l 14 „ 26 1 38 ,, 3 ... i 28 ,. 27 i 1 If, 46 ,, 6 ... i 9 „ 28 2 11, 5 „ 12 ... i 40 „ 29 2 25, 20 Nov. 5 ... 2 69, 23 „ 30 ... 1 26 » 7 2 83, 76 „ 31 1 26 ,, 9 1 9 Sept. 1 T 8 „ 10 1 83 » 2 T 57 ,. 12 ... 1 26 » 3 1 54 » 1* 2 1 33, 60, 14 „ 6 S 5, 6, 49 „ 16 1 36 „ 8 1 "i 19, 40, 47 ,. 17 1 75 >, H 1 49 „ 18 1 4 „ 16 1 49 „ 20 1 1 » 17 i 45 „ 21 1 32 It is remarkable that between October 12 and November 5, when the disease subsided in Carmarthen, it was very prevalent at Abergwili. During the persecution of the Protestants in the reign of Mary, Carmarthen was made memorable by the martyrdom of Dr. Robert Ferrar,* Bishop of St. David's, on the 30th of March, 1555. Some doubt has been raised as to the place of his suffering, which Foxe describes as "in the Market-place, at the south side of the Market- cross." It has from this been asserted that he was burnt at a cross, represented in Speed's map of 1610 as standing in Priory- street, about half way between St. Peter's Church and the priory. There were in Speed's time two or three crosses in Carmarthen — one in Lammas-street, and the Market-cross, removed some years ago from Nott-square ; and there seems to be sufficient reason to believe that the bishop suffered near the latter place, but within the precincts of the castle, the high-sheriff for the county of Car marthen, Griffith David Leyson, LL.D., in whose custody be was, having no jurisdiction over the town. Dr. Leyson lived at the priory: hence perhaps the supposition that the martyrdom took place in Priory-street. The stone which supported the stake to * The name is sometimes spelt " Farrar ; " but in the bishop's autograph it is spelt as above. HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 13 which the martyr bishop was bound remained for many years near the old Market-cross ; but when the cross was taken down, it was removed to Lammas-street, and in 1843 was finally transferred to Abergwili Church, where it now forms the apex or finial of the spire. The town wall seems to have been entire when Speed's map was drawn. Leaving the castle near the tower which till recently overlooked Castle-hill-road, it ran eastward along the crest of the hill above Dan y Banc ; thence in a straight line in a northerly direction to the Back-way, crossing Spilman-street and King-street a little below the church, at each of which crossings there was a gate. It then passed in a line north of King-street to a gate near the lower end of Jackson' s-lane, continuing its course to the; Dark Gate. Passing thence between Blue-street and Quay-street, and crossing the latter, it followed the Line of Little Bridge-street to the south-west tower of the castle overlooking Bridge-street, com pleting, with the south boundary of the fortress, a circuit of about. 1250 yards, and including the castle and its precincts. Some remains of the wall are traceable in the course thus indicated. The castle boundary, about 400 yards in extent, lies behind the houses on the right hand of a person walking round from the bridge through Bridge-street, Nott-square, Queen-street, and Castle-hill. Besides the gates above referred to, there was also between King-street and Nott-square a gate with a watch-house over it communicating with the castle, used as a lock-up house, and accessible from the street by a flight of steps. The gates, having become needless obstructions, were removed during the last century. Spilman-street gate was taken down in 1768; the two gates in King-street in 1792, and the Dark Gate in 1796. Previous to the Reformation, there were several religious edifices in Carmarthen, which have since fallen into decay. Remains of the priory, which has given its name to Priory-street, may still be traced to the south of that street. The Nun's Walk, a raised terrace behind the houses which lie between the entrance to the priory and the lane leading to the tinworks, is still observable from the pathway beyond the Parade, which pathway, previously to its being diverted by the Cardigan Railway Company, passed through the middle of the field called Pare y Berllan, from its adjoining the priory orchard, now the site of the Grammar School. At the bottom of the field, a stone's throw from the river, stood the mother church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist and St. Theu- lacus (Teilo). An ivy-covered ruin, inhabited not many years ago, the remains of the prior's house (or the guest-house), was removed in August, 1855, and the stones were used in building the cottages, called Priory-row, then erected between the site of the old church and the school. It is to be regretted that the authorities of Jesus College, Oxford, to whom the property now belongs, should for a paltry consideration have given their sanction to this piece of van dalism. The font from St. John's Church is now at Ystrad. The priory is known to have existed before 1148. In the sixth year of 14 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. Edward II. its prior was made king's chamberlain for Carmarthen during pleasure. It appears to have been burnt down in the four teenth year of the reign of Henry VI. Its revenues at the time of its suppression were valued at £174 8s. 8d. It was granted, 35 Henry VIII., to Richard Andrews and Nicholas Temple. Arms were granted to the priory : azure, an Eagle with wings endorsed, standing on a branch of laurel, all or. In February, 1878, during the rebuilding of a part of the old priory, long used as dwellings of a humble kind, a slab of freestone was found, measuring 26in. by 16in., having on one side a shield carved in bold relief, with the arms first borne by Henry V., as Prince of Wales, and by other Princes of Wales up to Edward VI., viz., quarterly 1 and 4 France modem, 2 and 3 England, with the label as a mark of cadency. It had been used as a hearth-stone in a room on the ground-floor at the west end of the building, with its carved side undermost, to which circumstance the preservation of the arms is attributable. It has been placed under Steele's tablet, in the south wall of the town chancel of St. Peter's Church. According to the best authorities the shape of the shield, which has the bouche for the lance, unmistakably indicates the middle of the fifteenth century, temp. Henry VI., and the arms are those of his only son, Edward, whose murder leaves a dark stain on the period. The young prince was born in 1453, seventeen years after the destruction of the priory by fire. Possibly his arms were placed on a part of the building not restored till after his birth. The irregularity in the position of the fleurs de lis — one above two, instead of two above one — is not an intentional heraldic "differ ence." In Priory-street, a little to the west of the entrance to the priory, stands an old oak-tree, said to have sprung from an acorn planted there by one Adams, master of Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School, in this town, and an ancestor of one of the American presidents of that name. In Lammas-street — a suggestive name also — there was a monas tery of Gray Friars, remains of which are to be seen in Friars' - park. The tower of the church was pulled down within the memory of some of the inhabitants of the town. Part of the walls are incorporated with houses in the neighbourhood. According to Tanner, the "House of the Gray Friars was under the custody of Bristol; and after the dissolution, was granted, 34 Hen. VIII., to Thomas Lloyd, and 5 Edw. VI. to Sir Thomas Gresham." The church of the Gray Friars was one of much importance. Among those buried there was Edmond Tudor, first Earl of Richmond, who died Nov. 1, 1456. At the dissolution of the monastery his remains and his tomb were removed to St. David's Cathedral : the tomb may now be seen in the presbytery. He was the son of Owain Tewdwr and Catherine de Valois, widow of Henry V., and was the father of Henry VII., who was born at Pembroke Castle, January 21, 1456. Edmund Tudor was created Earl of Richmond in 1452, by his half-brother, Henry VI. Owain was a Welsh gentleman HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 15 of royal descent, derived from Cadwaladr, the last of the Welsh princes who bore the title of sovereign. The tomb, which is of Purbeck marble, at first bore several brass inscription-plates, now lost. It was set up at the monastery in his son's reign. Another illustrious personage buried at the Gray Friars' was Sir Rhys ab Thomas, a descendant of Urien Rheged, King of Gower, and an ancestor of the noble house of Dynevor, who gave impor tant aid to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, whom he received when he landed, August 7, 1485, at Dale, near Milford, to claim the English crown, and with whom he fought at the head of 2000 horsemen against Richard at Bosworth Field, August 22, 1485. Richmond's army had been raised in France during his exile in Brittany, a district to which, according to Welsh history, the British Cymry emigrated on three separate occasions, and in which Armoric, a sister language to the Welsh, is still spoken. Henry's line of march lay through Haverfordwest and Cardigan : the Welsh contingent, led by Sir Rhys, passed through Carmarthen, gathering strength along its march. Meeting near Shrewsbury, the combined army proceeded to Bosworth.* In Richard's last effort to retrieve the fortunes of that day by seizing the Welsh banner, the Red Dragon,f under which Henry had taken his stand, he was brought to the ground by a blow from the battle-axe of Sir Rhys ab Thomas, who, placing the crown of the fallen monarch upon the head of his fellow-countryman, thus by British hands restored the kingdon to the ancient British line. Henry, from an English point of view, an "usurper" who obtained the crown more "by seizure or donation than by any legal inheritance," is claimed by Welshmen as a conqueror who won the throne by his sword and secured it by a political marriage with Elizabeth of York, the "rightful" successor of Edward V. Sir Rhys also distinguished himself at the battle of Stoke, June 16, 1487, when the imposter Lambert Simnell was taken prisoner ; and at the battle of Black- heath, June 22, 1497, fatal to the cause of Perkin Warbeck, he fought at the head of 1500 of his Welsh followers, had two horses killed under him, and in single combat, took prisoner Lord Audley, the leader of the insurgents. Sir Rhys was buried at the Gray Friars' in 1527. At the suppression of the monastery, his remains and those of his lady were translated to St. Peter's Church (see page 25). Among other circumstances connected with Henry's invasion, it * " On his way to Shrewsbury, there met him Sir Sice ap Thomas, a man of great command in Wales, with a number of men to side in his quarrell, which Henry afterwards requited in making this his first Ayder the Gouernour of Wales:'— Speed. f As a descendant of Cadwaladr, Henry assumed the Bed Dragon as the supporter of the dexter side of his shield, the sinister being supported by a White Greyhound ; as may be seen on his tomb in Westminster Abbey. The shields of his son, Henry VIII., and his grandson, Edward VI., were supported on the dexter side by a Lion gardant, and on the sinister by the Bed Dragon. The supporters of the shield of Elizabeth were, dexter, Lion rampant; sinister, Red Dragon. 3 16 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. is recorded that the sweating sickness, a violent inflammatory epidemic, fatal in a few hours, appeared for the first time m Britain in his army shortly after his landing. It reached London on the 21st of September, 1485, where it carried off a great many persons, two lord mayors and six aldermen dying of it in one week. It re-appeared in this country in 1506, was very fatal in 1517, and in 1528, when it was called " the great mortality." Its last visita tion was in 1551. Henry VIII. travelled from place to place to escape the infection. A chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, stood behind the Town Hall. Some of its walls form part of the houses now standing between the Hall and Nott's Monument. Portions of the rood-loft were laid open when the county offices, adjoining the Town Hall, were in course of erection. The west gable formed the front wall of the cook-shop which stood at the rear of the Town Hall, and which was removed when the alterations were made in the court and the county offices in 1862. Remains of two winding staircases were then traceable in the walls ; and mouldings in the timbers indicated their once sacred use. Corbels were observable in the west wall of the house abutting on what was then made St.-Mary's-lane. A piece of carved stone found among the ruins is preserved in the north-east corner of the boundary wall of the county buildings. There is a tradition that there was a subterranean communication between the chapel and the castle, which has received support from the existence of arched passages connected with the remains of the crypt now forming the cellars of the houses Nos. 7 and 8, Lower Market-street. It is said also that part of an arched foot-way was laid open some years ago, a few feet to the east of the old Market- cross, by workmen excavating on the spot. St. Mary's Chapel was not used after the days of Henry VIII. Prince Edward's Chapel stood on the ground now occupied by the house No. 2, Nott-square. The crypt of the chapel constitutes the vaults underneath that house. The holy-water stoup is in the possession of the writer's brother. Edward I. with his queen, Eleanor, visited Carmarthen during the episcopate of Bishop Beck, and is said to have been the last English sovereign that slept at Carmarthen Castle. The chapel is supposed to have been projected at this period, and dedicated to Prince Edward. Edward, the Black Prince, visited Carmarthen in 1351, 1362, and 1370; and several grants made by him to the priory in those years were signed by him at Carmarthen. The vaulted cellars to be seen under the Sheaf tavern, in Bridge-street, were probably connected with the castle. Capel Ifan Fields, to the north of Waendew, are so called from a chapel which once stood there, and of which no traces now remain, excepting the road which led to it. St. Catherine's Chapel stood to the west of the Cattle-market. From it St. -Catherine-street and St. Catherine's Mill derive their names. Another edifice, dedicated to St. Barbara, occupied a position CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. 17 near Waen lago, between Picton's Monument and the South Wales Training College. A few old houses built on a plan said to have been introduced by the Flemings may be seen in the more ancient parts of the town. They are characterized by the awkward size and position of the chimney, which holds a prominent place in the front wall. The Red Cow inn, in Bridge-street, and the Old Plough inn, in Lammas-street, are striking examples : several houses of similar construction have been removed during the last few years, and the structure of others has been concealed by alteration. Houses of this style are common in some of the older towns on the western coast of Wales, where the Flemings were introduced in accordance with the policy of the Norman sovereigns, who employed foreign mercenaries in their efforts to subjugate the people.* The ancient borough of Kidwelly is remarkable for the number of Flemish houses which it contains. The local names from Fish guard to Gower indicate approximately the ground occupied by Teutonic settlers in west Wales. CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. Though now surpassed in commercial importance by some other towns in the principality, Carmarthen has from the earliest times been regarded as the metropolis of South Wales, to which dis tinction it has many claims. It was the seat of government and the occasional residence of the native princes of Deheubarth ; and in later times it had its royal castle, its mint, and its exchequer, and a court of chancery for South Wales, with a chancellor to preside. Till the close of the last century, on account of its central position and accessibility, it was during the winter season the resort of the aristocracy and gentry of the surrounding neigh bourhood, most families of distinction in Carmarthenshire and the adjoining counties having their town houses in it, to which they repaired annually for social intercourse. Carmarthen has been, in the words of the charter, "from time immemorial" a borough and town corporate. Its charter is said to have been first granted by Henry II. It was confirmed by John, Jan. 6, 1201 ; by Henry III., July 22, 1227 ; by Edward I., when Prince of Wales; by Edward II., May 3, 1313 ; by Edward III., May 4, 1341 ; by Richard II., July 7, 1386 ; by Henry VIII., May 16, 1546; by James I., June 14, 1604; and by George III., July 27, 1764. A charter granted by Edward I., to the burgesses of Cardigan, and dated at Kidwelly, December 9, 1284, mentions the privileges which he as Prince of Wales had granted to Carmar then ; and the charter granted to Laugharne by Guido de Bryan * " Backed by the greater baronies, ahorde of lesser adventurers ob'aiued the royal ' license to make conquest on the Welsh.' .... Land might be had for the asking by any who would ' wage war on the Welsh.' " — Green. 18 CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. about 1300, securing to the burgesses of that town "all the good laws and customs which the burgesses of Carmarthen have used in the time of King John, Lord Edward (I.), son of Henry, and their predecessors Kings of England," was witnessed by "Walter Malenphant, mayor of Carmarthen," and others. In the reign of Henry VI., Lord Whitney employed its mayor and bailiffs to arrest Gruffydd ab Nicholas. The charter granted by Henry VIII. to the town of Cardigan refers to a practice previously prevailing of holding the sessions for the county of Cardigan at Carmarthen, and provides that they shall in future be held in the town of Cardigan. By James's charter, Carmarthen was constituted a county of itself. By the charter of George III. the town of old Carmarthen was annexed to the " Borough heretofore called New Carmarthen," the said borough with the said town to be " called by the name of Our Borough of Carmarthen." Old Carmarthen comprised that part of the town which lay eastward of the gates represented at the end of King-street and Spilman-street in Speed's map ; it had separate privileges and its own mayor or prefect (" prepositus "). The new borough thus constituted had a mayor, recorder, two sheriffs, town clerk, chamberlain, twenty common councilmen, burgesses (forty named in the charter), sword-bearer, and two serjeants-at-maee. The mayor, recorder, and town clerk held fortnightly courts, and the sheriffs monthly courts. The mayor, recorder, and six peers, chosen from among the common councilmen, were justices of the peace for the time being. The mayor was clerk of the market, coroner, escheator, and admiral of the river Towy, with jurisdiction from Carmarthen Bridge to the Bar, and was toll-free through out the realm. The town clerk was clerk of the peace, clerk of assize, and prothonotary. The ownership of £4 freehold, £10 occupancy of three years' standing, and having served seven years' apprenticeship to a resident burgess, were qualifications for bur gesses. The charter created Albert Davids the first modern mayor, and the following forty persons the modern burgesses : — " Sir Thomas Stepney, bart. ; George Rice, Howel Gwynne, Bichard Vaughan, Robert Banks Hodgkinson, Griffith Philips, Gwynn Davies, Charles Phillip?, James Philips, Owen Brigstock, John Johnes, David Edwardes, Edward Parry, George Bevan, John Lewis, Arthur Jones, John Corrie, George Lewis, and Robert Morgan, esquires; Capt. William Richard Wilson, the Rer. William Powell, D.D.. Thomas Williams, John Rogers, Griffith Havard, and John Howells, clerks ; Alexander Scnrlock, Thomas Morris, Francis Morgan, John Harries, Charles Williams, William Bonville, George Oakley, George Evans, William Bowen, George James, John Williams, and John Lewis Watkin, gentlemen ; John Lewis and John Philips, merchants ; and Griffith Evans, shopkeeper. Under the Municipal Act of 1835, the public affairs of the borough are managed by a mayor, elected annually; six aldermen, elected by the council for six years* three of whom retire every three years; and eighteen councillors, who are elected for three years, six retiring every year, three for the Eastern Ward and three for the Western Ward, into which the borough was by that CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. 19 Act divided. The names of the members and officers of the corporation first elected and appointed under the Act of 1835 follow. Mayor. — John George Philipps. Sheriff.— William Philipps. Town Clerk. — George Thomas. Aldermen. — Thomas Morris, J. G. Philipps, John Jenkins, Thomas Taylor Webb, Charles Jones, Evan Rees. Councillors, with the votes for each: — Eastern Ward. Geo. Davies, Ivy Bush hotel ... 161 John Williams,' currier 130 Edmund Hill Stacey, surgeon ...124 David Charles, ropemaker ... 123 Geo. Bagnall, draper 122 John Powell Davies, printer ... 117 Edward Jones, ironmonger ... 116 Benj. Davies, watchmaker ... 110 Geo. Shankland, draper 102 Western Ward. Wm. Geo. Thomas, maltster ... 122 Geo. Davies, Boar's Head hotel ... 121 Evan Evans, weaver 94 Thos. Morgan, spirit-merchant ... 93 Geo. Philipps, Golden Lion ... 93 John Lewis, draper ... ... 92 John Lewis, timber-merchant ... 92 William Moss, ironmonger ... 91 David Morley, cabinet-maker ... 88 The boundary line separating the two wards, as settled by the revising barristers, John Wilton and Herbert G. Jones, Esquires, is as follows : — "A line drawn from the Boundary of the said Borough at Carmarthen Bridge, over the river Towy, in a north-western direction, along the middle of the road leading from the Bridge to and along Bridge-street, to the point where the same joins Lower Bridge-street, and afterwards in a Northward direction along the middle of Bridge-street, leaving the Island or cluster of Houses near the Fishmarket on the right, and passing the East end of St. Mary-street and the West side of the Fish Market, to the East end of Lower Market-street, near the Cross, and thence in a Westward direction, along the middle of Lower Market-st. and passing along the north end or side of the Town Hall into Guildhall Square ; and thence in a Westward direction along the middle of Guildhall Square to the south end of Red Street ; and thence in a Northward direction along the middle of Red Street to the West end of Chapel-place, and thence along the middle of Chapel-place to the south end of Cambrian-place or of the road or Street leading from Chapel-place and Woods' Row towards Cambrian-Place ; and thence in a Northward direction along the middle of John Street, or of the street or road in which are situate the English Wesleyan Chapel and the Borough Goal ; (leaving the said English Wesleyan Chapel and Borough Goal to the Westward ; and leaving the Slaughter House and the Welsh Wesleyan Chapel to the Eastward :) to the place where such last- mentioned street or road joins or enters the road which leads westward to St. Catherine's Street ; thence in a Westward direction along the middle of the last-mentioned road along the side of the mill dam to St. Catherine-street ; and along the middle of St. Catherine Street to the point where Goose-street and Upper Water-street meet St. Catherine Street and Lower Water Street ; and thence along the middle of Lower Water Street, and through the Toll-gate, and thence in a North Western direction, along the middle of the Turnpike road leading from Carmarthen to Cardigan, until the same road reaches the present Boundary of the said Borough." The borough of Carmarthen and the parish of St. Peter are comprised within the same limits, extending from Abergwili Bridge, on the east, to a spot near Derllys, on the west, a distance of 4f miles; the greatest breadth being about 4 miles, from a point between Penygraig and Penybont, near Cwmgwili, on the north, to another at the boundary of a detached part of Llandyfaelog parish, 20 CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. on the north-western side of the Towy, beneath Green Castle, on the south. On the eastern side between its north and south extremities, the parish is bounded by the rivers Gwili and Towy. The parish is divided into five wards for civil affairs, known as Priory-street Ward and the Upper Franchise; King-street, St.- Mary-street, and Gell-street (Guild-street in 1771) Wards ; and the Lower Franchise; a distinction now of no practical utility. For ecclesiastical purposes, it was by an Order of the Queen in council, Nov. 10, 1843, divided into three districts : St. Peter's, St. David's, and Llanllwch, which were, in July, 1857, for those purposes constituted separate parishes, with boundaries as under : — Llanllwch District " is bounded on the north by the parish of New Church, otherwise Llan Newydd ; on the north west by the parish of Merthyr ; on the south west by the parishes of Llangynog and Llangain ; on the south by the parish of Llandyfaelog ; on the south east by the river Towy, till it is joined by the Tawelan river ; and on the north east by pursuing the course of that river till it crosses the road leading to Job's Well, from John's Town ; along the middle of which road it proceeds till it enters the road leading to Giddymoor, and taking the middle of that road till it again meets the Tawelan river, along which it proceeds, in a northerly direction, till it enters the parish of New Church, where the boundary commenced." St. David's District boundary begins "at the Towy, by the bridge which crosses the said river, and proceeds in a north western direction along the middle of the road leading from Bridge-street to and along Bridge-street to the point where the same joins Lower Bridge-street; and afterwards, in a northward direction, along the middle of Bridge-street, leaving the island, or cluster of houses, near the fish-market, on the right, and passing the east end of St. Mary's-street, and the west side of the fish-market, to the east end of Lower Market-street near the Cross, and thence, in a westward direction, along the middle of Lower Market-street, and passing along the north end or side of the Townhall into Guildhall-square ; and thence, in a westward direction, along the middle of the Guildhall-square to the south end of Red-street ; and thence, in a northward direction, along the middle of Red-street, and the road leading by Barn's-row, by Waterloo-terrace, in a northerly direction, along the middle of the road leading to Penlanarcoed; it then takes a straight line, in a north westerly direction, to Cwmdu, till it reaches the river Tawelan, which forms the boundary line separating part of the parish of St. Peter, in the county of the borough of Carmarthen, from the parish of New Church, or Llan Newydd, along which river it proceeds, in a southerly direction, till it meets the road leading from Giddymoor to Job's Well, and proceeding along the middle of the road passing Job's Well; and thence to John's-town, till it again meets the Tawelan river, along which it proceeds, in a south easterly direction, to its entrance into the Towy river; and then, in a north easterly direction, along that river to Carmarthen bridge, crossing the Towy, where the boundary ¦commenced." Before the passing of the Reform Bill, the borough returned one representative to Parliament; but since that period it has shared the privilege with the contributary borough of Llanelly. It has a separate commission of the peace, and quarter sessions presided over by its recorder. The population of Carmarthen, according to the census of 1801, was 5548. In 1811, it was 7275; in 1821, it was 8906; in 1831, it was 9955; in 1841, it was 9526 (the return supposed to be erroneous); in 1851, it was 10,462; in 1861, it was 9953- in 1871, it was 10,488; and in 1881, it was 10,512. There were CIVIL AND SOCIAL CONDITION. 21 about 130 soldiers in the town, many with their wives and families, which partly or wholly accounts for the excess in the year 1 851. The trade of Carmarthen is principally confined to the export and import of agricultural produce, and supplying the surrounding country with timber and manufactured articles of every description, for which Carmarthen is the principal depot. Tinplate, for the manufacture of which the town has long been celebrated, is also exported. The export of lead from the neighbouring mines has declined of late. Up to the first thirty or forty years of this century the manufacture of hats furnished occupation for a large portion of the population ; but this trade has become extinct of late. The hatters were politically an influential body : their votes often decided the issue in contested elections, journeymen generally being on the burgess roll by virtue of their apprenticeship qualification. Other trades seem to have reached considerable dimensions in olden times. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the mayor and common council authorized and ordered the founding of corporations, associations, or fraternities of tailors, cordwainers, tanners, weavers, and others, to whom they granted privileges with a view to encourage trade, and to protect the public from imposition. Shipbuilding, too, formerly carried on here to a considerable extent, half-a-dozen vessels of different sizes and in different stages of construction being sometimes on the stocks at the same time, has ceased since the introduction of steam and iron ; while the coasting-trade, carried on by private individuals and ship ping companies, has been almost entirely superseded by the railway. The river Towy is well stocked with salmon, sewin, and trout. The neighbouring rivers also abound with trout and salmon-peel. Till lately the gathering of cockles afforded employment to a number of women who went in search of them to the sands in the neighbourhood of the Ferry-side and Llanstephan. Cockles are now sent inland in large quantities -by rail from the Ferry-side. Markets are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and a cattle market on the first Wednesday in every month ; with fairs on the following days : — April 15, 16; June 3, 4; July 10; August 12, 13; September 9 ; October 9 ; November 14, 15. The two-day fairs are held in Lammas-street and its neighbourhood, hordes and cattle -being sold on the first day, and pigs the second. The one-day fairs, held in Priory-street, are a relic of the privileges enjoyed by Old Carmarthen. Fairs here as elsewhere have in some instances succeeded religious wakes or festivals. April fair, styled John Brown's, established during his deputy-mayoralty, in the early part of this century, and June fair (ffair newydd) are of recent date ; the fairs held in July (ffair Gwyl Bedr), August (ffair Awst), September (ffair Gwyl Ieuan Bach), and. October (ffair Gwyl 'Hingel), refer to St. Peter's day, Lammas-day, the beheading of John the Baptist, and Michaelmas-day, old style. November fair (ffair Calan Gauaf), at which servants are hired for the year, is popularly called Hollontide fair, an old contraction of Hallow-e'en- tide not peculiar to this part of the kingdom. 22 STREETS. The town is about a mile and a quarter in length, and about half a mile in breadth at the widest part. It consists principally of a continuous irregular line from east to west, formed by Priory- street, St.-Peter-street, King-street, Nott-square, Lower Market- street, Guildhall-square, Dark-gate, Lammas-street, and Picton- terrace. The other principal streets are Spilman-street, Queen- street, Bridge-street, St. -Mary-street, Quay-street, Blue-street, Red-street, and Water-street. The origin of most of these names is pretty obvious. Lammas- street (loaf-mass-street), like Priory-street, may probably be traced to the religious establishment in the neighbourhood. The names of Blue-street (at first called Golden-grove -street) and Red-street are to be traced to the two political parties ; Spilman-street is in some way connected with the Spilman or Spelman* family men tioned in some old local deeds. Lower Market-street was so called in contradistinction to Upper Market-street, now Nott-square ; Water-street, from the stream which now crosses under the road near the turnpike gate ; and Little Water- street, from the water flowing from the hill side, which was diverted near Waendew to form a fishpond in the grounds of Furnace-house, before finding its way to the Towy. Dark-gate marks the situation of one of the five town gates. Dame-street, a mistaken refinement of Dam-street, is so called from a mill-dam at its upper end. Its new name, Mill- street, obscures the history of the neighbourhood ; the Cock Mill would more properly give its name to Blue-street, where it stood. John-street is a row of houses built by the late Mr. John Daniel ; Mansel-street is so named after Richard Mansel Philipps, Esq., who owned the ground ; and Morley- street, after Mr. Morley, a cabinet-maker, whose premises extended from Lammas-street to St. Catherine-street, which takes its name from St. Catherine's Chapel, which once stood near it. Woods's-row is so called from Mr. Thomas Woods, an attorney (who died 1811); and Barn-row, from the tithe-barn that stood there. Waterloo-terrace dates from a short time after Wellington's great victory : the first house built in the row is that on the south side of the Tabernacle Chapel, which was built by the eccentric Sion 'Sanau, who died July 28, * " The pedigree of the Spelmans, as drawn out by the learned antiquary Sir Henry Spelman, commences three generations before the reign of Henry III. with William Spileman, Knt., Lord of Brokenhurst in Hampshire. The family afterwards removed into Suffolk, and in the fifteenth century into Norfolk, where they possessed very large estates."— Foss's Judaea of England. Nicholas and Andrew Spileman and Robert son of Rice Spilmon are mentioned in the Cartulary of the Priory. The first paper-mill set up in England is said to have been erected at Dartmouth, in 1588 by Mr. Spilman, a German. Shakespeare, however, refers it to the reign of Henry VI. : Jack Cade thus upbraids Lord Say, "Whereas, before, our forefathers had no other books but the score and tally, thou hast caused printing to be used ; and, contrary to the kino- his crown, and dignity, thou hast built a paper-mill." °' CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 23 1828. Picton-terrace was built shortly after the monument, and takes its name from being situated near it. A barber named Jackson lived m Jackson's-lane ; a cooper named Shaw, in Shaw's- lane; a schoolmaster named Parfit, in Parfit's-lane ; a dealer in crockery named Prickett, at the corner of Prickett's-lane, or Bank- lane, the late bank of D. Morris and Sons being once at the King- street end of the lane ; and a corn merchant named Justice, who resided in Quay-street about 70 years ago, occupied the long store house m Justice's-lane. Pentre-poth is by some thought to be a corruption of Pentre'r Porth, the suburb of the gate ; but the place is equally removed from the two nearest gates, while its name exactly accords with the local pronunciation of pentre poeth, hot or sultry suburb, a name by no means confined to Carmarthen, and the elision of the r does not occur frequently in Welsh. Richmond- terrace has no connection with the Earl of Richmond : it has been substituted by mistake for Richmead-terrace, a name suggested by Waendew, an adjacent meadow. The older names of the streets have their Welsh equivalents ; as, Heol y Prior (the prior's street), Heol y Brenin, Heol Spilman, Heol y Bont, Heol y Cai, Heol Dwr, Heol Awst (Calan Awst being the Welsh term for Lammas-day, or Loaf-mass-day). The newer streets are spoken of in Welsh under their English names; indica ting a greater prevalence of Welsh in the town in former years. CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. There are seventeen places of worship in the town of Carmarthen : three churches, one school-church, twelve chapels belonging to dissenting Protestant communities, and a Roman Catholic chapel. The church of Llanllwch is about two miles from the town. st. peter's church. The fine old church of St. Peter occupies the highest ground in the older portion of the town, and is directly accessible from Priory-street, Church-street, Spilman-street, and King-street. It consists of a nave and a wide south aisle, separated from each other by a row of arches, built on rough hewn marble pillars, which material, however, is concealed with plaster. It has also a north transept and two chancels. The date of its erection is uncertain : the south aisle and its chancel were probably erected about 400 years ago ; but the other portion is of greater antiquity. It is believed that the church was originally cruciform, there having been a south transept, corresponding to that now remaining, which was included in the present aisle ; and a view of the interior from the inner door under the tower suggests that the nave was originally wider, and that the pillars were built inside the south wall before its removal, when the aisle was added. Mention is made of the church as early as the reign of Henry 4 24 st. peter's church. II., in a grant made by him to the prior and monks of St. John, of which the following is a translated extract : — " Henry King of England, &c, To the Archbishops, &c, Greeting, Know ^ye that for the safety of our soul, &c., we have given & granted and by our carter confirmed to God and the Church of St. John the Evangelist of Kayrmerayn, and the Canons there serving God in perpetual alms, the old City at js.ayrmer- dyn, with all its appurtenances, as the limits & bounds were perambulated Deiore our Bailiffs at Kayrmerdyn. Also we have given to the aforesaid Canons tne Church of St. Peter which is situate in the same City, with the Chapel ot our Castle of Kayrmerdyn, & all other Chapels to the same Church appertaining, &c. In the taxation of church benefices made in the 19th Edward I., St. Peter's Church is again mentioned, and the benefice valued at £9 6s. 8d. In the next general ecclesiastical survey, made 26th Henry VIII. (wherein first mention of the vicarage occurs), " the / Church of St. Peter of Kermerdyn, John ap Rice Vicar there," is valued at £6 13s. 4d. ; and the rectory, held by Griffin the prior, at £48. The rectory is thus described : — " First, the Parish Church of St. Peter, Kermerdyn, with the Chapels of Maner- goyne, Newchurch, & Llanllegh, to the same parish church annexed, in all tithes, fruits, obventions, and emoluments, & it is worth one year with another in the tithes of sheaves, wool, cheese, honey, and other commodities whatsoever, £48." The rectory remained in the hands of the crown till 1612 (10th James I.), when it was granted out in fee to Francis Morice and Francis Phillips, with the " Chapels of Manorgayne, Newchurch, and Llanllough otherwise Llanlloid," subject to a yearly stipend of £7, "to one clerk celebrating in the Church of St. Peter, and 100 shillings for the stipend of a clerk celebrating within Hke church or chapel of Manorgayne and Newchurch." St. Peter's Church was new roofed and ceiled by Nash in 1785, when many interesting relics brought from the priory or monastery were ruthlessly ground down to furnish materials for the ceiling. The original roof had a higher pitch than the present one. It was lowered either by Nash or when restored after a fire, which according to tradition partially destroyed the fabric. Traces of the old roof may be observed on the east wall of the steeple. The internal arrangements of the church were remodelled in 1855, when the high pews (erected 1789) were replaced by lower ones, and the pulpit (placed in 1789 against the south wall) was removed to its present position, a little in front of the spot where previously a stone pulpit stood. The plastered ceiling constructed by Nash was removed in 1860 in consequence of a part having fallen down ; and the present wooden inner roofing was constructed in its place the following year. The tessalated pavement was completed in 1876 ; the north aisle, the town chancel, and the porches at the expense of Mr. Valentine Davis. The church is provided with a fine organ by G. Pyke England, London, erected by subscription in 1796 : a set of pedals were added by Benjamin Treharne, of Carmarthen, in 1818. The organ was built for George III.; but not being exactly what His Majesty wanted, its maker had to construct another. The church was first lighted with gas in 1822. ST. Peter's church. 25 The church contains many monuments of interest. One, a large sculptured mass under the arch between the chancel and the consistory court, will awaken the visitor's interest. It is the tomb of Sir Rhys ab Thomas, which, as before stated (p. 15), was brought from the church of the Gray Friars (not White Friars, as recorded on the monument). The recumbent figures represent Sir Rhys and his lady. Portions of this fine "altar tomb were at first unskilfully put together in the north-east corner of the chancel, within the communion rails, where they remained for a period of three hundred years. Between September 1865 and May 1866, the monument was restored to its original form and removed to its present position, by Sir Rhys's lineal descendant, the fourth Lord Dynevor. The following is a copy of a parchment document then deposited in the tomb : — " Etstatinn nf #ir Ejnjs oh ^jjiraioa's ^frumnwut. " [From the ' Carmarthen Chronicle,' prefixed to ' Yr Haul,' October, 1865.] " The fine old tomb of Sir Rhys ab Thomas, in St. Peter's Church, was taken to pieces on Monday and Tuesday, September 11 and 12, preliminary to its restoration at the expense of his lineal descendant, Lord Dynevor. The work has been entrusted to Mr. Field, of Parliament-street, London, who superin tended the present operations. The carved panels having been carefully de tached, the block of masonry supporting the recumbent effigies of Sir Rhys and his lady was removed stone by stone, and minutely examined. Immediately under the effigies was a small collection of bones, including a piece of a skull, a thigh bone, measuring 12 inches; fore-arm (ulna), 9£ inches; and a few vertebras. Considerably lower down, in an oblong cavity formed by the separation of two portions of a large flag level with the ancient tesselated pavement of the chancel, carefully protected by stones placed over the hollow, were several bones of a larger person, including the skull ; two thigh bones, 19J inches long ; leg bone (tibia), 16 inches; arm (hwmerus), 14 inches ; small bones of the fore-arm and leg (radius and fibulaj; and parts of the pelvis, clavicle, and other bones. The skull measured 22 inches in circumference, and was nearly entire, having how ever sustained a fracture at an early period, probably on the occasion of its first removal. From the disposition of the bones, it may be inferred that they were collected from their original resting-place, and deposited carefully together, when the tomb was transferred to St. Peter's Church, without any attempt, how ever, being made to put them in their natural relative positions: possibly the missing arm bone was stolen as the relic of the arm that slew a king. That they are the bones of Sir Rhys ab Thomas and his lady could scarcely be doubted, were there no other reason for the belief than their discovery in their very significant position. A manuscript, however, of the early part of the seventeenth century, printed in the Cambrian Register for 1795, records that Sir Rhys ' was buried, as the tradition goes, first, in the Fryars at Carmarthen, but was after- wardes moved and re-interred in the easterne isle of St. Peter's Church, where hys remaynes, together with those of his ladie, now reste under a statelie monu ment, which, to doe justice to his greate fame and honourable deservinges, should have been " cere perennius ; " but, sorrie am I to saie, is made of a sorte of free stone of so sof te a graine, that itt alreadie beares evidente proofes of unf aithful- nesse to its truste; and in less than another centurie, will be likelie to lose all traces of what it was at firste intended to recorde.' It has been supposed that the monument once bore an inscription: if so, it is now obliterated. Some have imagined that the figures 1541 may be traced on it: we are not quite satisfied that the figures are merely imaginary : possibly they record the date of the erection of the monument at St. Peter's. The effigy of Sir Rhys and the slab on 26 st. peter's church. which it lies consist of one piece of the stone denominated clwneh, 10 feet long, by about 3 feet wide, and 2 feet thick. It has been placed rn safety pending the preparation of the panels, which have been sent to London. Ihe emgy or Syr Rhys's lady, which measures 5 feet long, by one foot « inches wide, ana l foot in thickness, and which is not attached to any strong underlying slap, is fractured through its centre ; but the injury was not done on the present re moval; indeed, great credit is due to the workmen employed for the care they have taken in preserving everything calculated to interest the curious and patriotic. " The illustrious Welshman whose remains have now for a second time been disinterred was the third son of Thomas ab Gruffydd, eldest son of Gruffydd ab Nicholas of Dynevor (called the ' Eagle of Carmarthen,' an eminent patron of the Welsh bards), a descendant of Urien Rheged, king of Gower in Wales, prince of Murriff in Scotland, lord of Kidwelly, and knight of the round table to king Arthur. He was born at Abermarlais, Carmarthenshire, in the year 1451. His grandfather Gruffydd took part in the dissentions of the houses of York and Lancaster, and was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury [? Mortimer's Cross, 1461], fighting for the Yorkists, 1471. His father disliking civil broils, retired to Burgundy, leaving behind him his two elder sons, Morgan and David, to look after his estate, and taking with him his son Rhys, ' to acquaint him with the fashions of that court, at that time one of the best schooles in Christendome, both for civill deportment and warlick direction.' Previous to that, young Rhys ab Thomas had been placed under the tutorial care of one Edward Lewis, a gentleman of North Wales, who had studied at the university of Padua, and is supposed to have been afterwards physician to Elizabeth, dowager queen of Edward the Fourth. Morgan, eldest son of Thomas ab Gruffydd, espoused the cause of the Yorkists; and David, his second son, sided with the Lancastrians. On the occasion of the former besieging Pembroke Castle, David relieved the gar rison, rescuing Jasper Tudor Earl of Pembroke and the young Earl of Richmond out of his brothers hands, and embarking them safely at Tenby for Brittany. Thomas ab Gruffydd, shortly after his return from Burgundy, fell by the hands of an assasin, at Pennal, Merionethshire; and his two elder sons having lost their lives soon after in some of the sanguinary affrays of the period, Rhys succeeded to their fortunes, and soon assuming an influential position in South Wales, for which he was eminently fitted by both character and education, entered into a confederacy with the Duke of Buckingham for the purpose of placing Henri Tewdwr, Earl of Richmond, on the English throne. Richard III., suspecting his political bias, had required of him an oath of allegiance, and demanded his son Gruffydd Rhys as a pledge of his fidelity. In a letter dated Carmarthen Castle, 1484, ' penned by the Abbot of Talye,' Rhys cleverly excuses himself for not giving up his ' Sonne as a gage ' of his fealty, but assures Richard of his loyalty, promising ' that whoever, ill-affected to the state, shall dare to land in those partes of Wales, where I have anie emploiments under your Majestie, must resolve with himself to make his entrance and irruption over my bellie.' To relieve his conscience of the guilt of breaking this ' voluntarie protestation,' tradi tion states that Rhys lay down on the ground and suffered Richmond to walk over him; another legend is that he went under the arch of Mullock bridge, near Dale, where Henry landed, and remained there while he passed over. Be that as it may, he received Richmond at Milford Haven, and having remedied the meagre equipment of the French forces, lead his army through Carmarthen, Llandovery, and Brecon, the Welshmen flocking to his standard along the line of his march. The Earl shaped his course by Cardigan, ' to prevent such jarres and quarrels as commonlie arise betweene strangers,' enjoying on the first night the hospitality of Dafydd ab Evan, of Llwyn Dafydd, Llandyssilio Gogo, to whom he presented a drinking-horn mounted on a silver stand, afterwards in the possession of the Earl of Carbery and John Vaughan, Esq, and now preserved at Golden Grove, Carmarthenshire; and, on the second night, that of Einon ab Dafydd Llwyd, Wern Newydd, Llanarth. Before their departure from Milford, ' the Bishop of St. David's stepps up, and makes a learned Sermon to the whole armie, taking for his text, that of the Psalmist, " The Earth is weak and all the Inhabitants thereof; I bear up the pillars of it." ' The Vaughans and Games (descendants of Sir David Gam) joined Rhys at Brecon, with ' manie tall and able followers.' Having met, the allied forces marched on to Shrewsbury. At st. peter's church. 27 Newport, near that town, ' there Sir George Talbot came unto the Earle with 2000 tall men.' Thence they proceeded to Stafford, Lichfield, and ' soe to Adderstone,' where Richmond held a consultation with Lord Stanley. The valorous conduct of the noble Welshman on the field of battle is well known. His battle-axe felled the ' bristled Boar,' and settled the fortunes of Bosworth's eventful day : the crown was quickly placed on the head of Henry of Pembroke, who knighted his fellow-countryman on the field, the Welsh banner, the Red Dragon, painted on white and green silk, waving in the breeze; for which ensign, says Noble, ' Henry had such a fondness that he made it one of the supporters ' of the royal arms. Henry ever after honoured him, as the patron of his fortunes, with the appellation of Father Rhys. ' Sir William Stanley [beheaded February 16, 1495, on Tower Hill] set the crown on the Earle his head, but the keyes hung at Sir Rhys ab Thomas his girdle, which lett him in and could have shut him out.' In further reward for this signal service and for his valour at the battles of Stoke and Blackheath, at the latter of which, after having two horses killed under him, he vanquished Lord Audley in single combat and took him prisoner, he was granted patents making him lieutenant of Brecknock, chamberlain of Car marthen and Cardigan, seneschal and chancellor of Haverfordwest, Rowse, and Builth, justiciary of South Wales, and governor of all Wales, knight banneret (at Blackheath), knight of the garter, and privy councillor to Henry VII. Sir Rhys also fought in France at the battle of Terouenne and the siege of Tournay, in the reign of Henry VIII.; but that monarch soon forgot his obligations to the ab Thomas family; for a few years after Sir Rhys's death, his grandson, Rhys ab Gruffydd, lost his head, twelve hundred a year, and thirty thousand pounds in jewels and plate, for assuming the name of Fitz-Urien, which Henry inter preted as a desire to assert his claim to the government of Wales. There is a tradition that Sir Rhys declined the proferred honour of being made Earl of Pembroke or Essex ; yet, though ' never more than a knight,' he was, says Fuller, 'little less than a prince in his native country.' He had eighteen hundred tenants, and his vast possessions are said to have included no less than twenty castles, among which may be enumerated those of Dynevor, Caregcenen, Abermarlais, Kidwelly, Laugharne, Narberth, Emlyn, Whibley, and Carew. A partial restoration of his estates, forfeited on the attainder of Rhys ab Gruffydd, was obtained on a petition to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth, which is still extant. " Sir Rhys ab Thomas was married twice : first to Eva (or, as some say, Mably), daughter and coheiress of Henri ab Gwilym, of Cwrt Henri, by whom he had one son, Sir Gruffydd Rhys; and secondly to Janet, daughter of Thomas Mathews, of Radyr, Glamorganshire, and widow of Thomas Stradling, Esq. Janet died at Picton, Pembrokeshire, February 5, 1535, and was 'bury'd at Car marthen, in the Church of the Monastery of Preaching- Fryers with the said Sir Rhys ab Thomas, her husband.' He had also several illegitimate children, whom he acknowledged, some of whom married into families of note in Wales. An old manuscript pedigree in the writer's possession records the following: — " ' By Gwenllian, sister to the Abbot of Talley, Margaret, m. Harri John ; 2, she m. Robert Griffith; 3, she married Phillip Morgan, of Cydwelly. Elinm; m. Rhydderch ab Ieuan Llwydd of Buellt, 2, Jenkin Llwyd of Llanstephan. Men Ieuaf. Margaret Ieuaf. William. David. David [Ieuaf]. Thomas. Mawd. Philipp. " ' By Elizabeth Mortimer, Jane. " ' By Jennet, da. to Meredith Dd. Vychan of Talley (or, as Gr. Hiraethoc, da. to Griff. Dd. Coch of Cethinoc), Givenllian. " ' By Alio. Kyfpin of Montgom: sh., a da. " ' By a da. of Howell Jenkin of Ynys y Maen Gwyn, Anne, m. to H[enry] Wirriott [of Orielton, High Sheriff of Pembrokeshire in 1547].' " Sir Rhys spent his declining years at his favourite residence, Carew Castle, Pembrokeshire, which, according to Leland, 'he repairid or magnificently buildid,' living in great splendour, — witness his grand tournament in houour of Saint George of England, held in the 22nd year of Henry VII., at which several hundred ' men of prime marke ' and of ' good ranke and qualitie ' attended. He died in 1527, at the age of seventy-six. He was mayor of the town of Carmar then in 1488, 1494, 1500. 28 st. peter's church. " It may be worthy of remark that a chair which belonged to Sir Rhys is now in possession of Lord Dynevor, and forms one of the objects m the background of his Lordship's Portrait, copies of which many of our readers doubtless possess. „ " W. SPURRELL, PRINTER, CARMARTHEN. In a niche in the south wall of the chancel, near the communion rails, is the effigy of a lady praying, with a quaint inscription in verse. Near the little south door of the church are two monuments of public interest : one is that of General Sir William Nott, whose services in India are still fresh in the national memory, and whose remains are interred in a vault in the churchyard, to the north of the church. Nott was born at Neath ; but the home of his boyhood and youth was at Carmarthen, whither he retired from India with failing health, and where he died Jan. 1, 1845. The other is a tribute of respect to the memory of Dr. Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. David's, who was burnt at Carmarthen in the reign of Mary. He was one of the canons of St. Mary's College, Oxford, which stood on the site now occupied by Frewen's Hall. The erection of this tablet has done tardy justice to the memory of the martyred bishop, whom English historians rarely mention in con nection with his fellow sufferers, Cranmer, Ridley, Latimer, and Hooper. With becoming delicacy of feeling, the doer of this pious deed has not " marked the marble with his name." According to the author of Welsh Sketches, a fine tomb to the memory of "Hywel y Pedolau," foster-brother of Edward H., was to be seen in this church down to 1790, at which time it was converted into plaster for the cornices ! It bore an effigy in the attitude of prayer, holding in his clenched hands a horse-shoe, as if in the act of straightening it — a feat he was said to be able to perform : hence his name. Hywel was knighted by his royal foster-brother, by whom he was held in high favour. Walter Devereux, first Earl of Essex (father of the celebrated Earl), born at Carmarthen Castle about the year 1540, was buried in St. Peter's Church on the 26th of November, 1576. He died in Dublin, November 21. A large free-stone flag under the arch separating the two chancels, and forming a step between them, used to be pointed out as covering his vault. It is now covered by Sir Rhys ab Thomas's altar tomb. His funeral sermon, preached by Richard Davies, Bishop of St. David's, one of the translators of Archbishop Parker's English Bible and of William Salisbury's Welsh New Testment, was published in 1577. Its title ran thus : — "A Fvnerall sermon preached the xxvi. day of November, in the yeare of ovr Lorde m.d.lxxvi. in the Parishe chvrch of Caermerthyn, by the Reverende Father in God, Richard by permission of God, Bishoppe of Saint Dauys, at the buriall of the Right Houovrable Walter Earle of Essex and Ewe, Earle Marshall of Irelande, Viscovnt Hereforde and Bourgcher of Louein, of the most noble order of the Garter Knight. Imprinted at London by Henry Denham, dwelling in Pater noster Row, at the signe of the Starre. Anno Domi. 1577." st. peter's church. 29 The Bishop's text was — " 3) hearBe a bonce ftom heatun, easing, totite : UlesseB are the Beati mrjith We fn nje ICortJe, forvhroitf) : euen go sancti) vrjt sphlte, that then map test ftom theft labours, artB trjeii tooifes shall follom them.— Apoc. 14. Chap. vers. 13." To it are prefixed a hortatory epistle to the son, " the Right Honour able, my very good L. Robert, Earl of Essex and Ewe," &c, several sheets of genealogies, and verses in Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Welsh, and French. Reference is made to the removal of the earl's body in the inscription on the monument in Builth Church to John Lloyd of Colby, who was steward under the " Erie of Essex, transported out of Ireland into Carmarthen." Lingard writes that the Earl of Essex on one occasion entertained Henry VII. at his castle at Henningham, and when the king was ready to depart, a number of servants and retainers in the earl's livery was drawn up in two lines, to do honour to the sovereign. "My Lord," said the king, "I have heard much of your hospitality, but I see it is greater than the speech. These handsome gentlemen and yeomen that I see on each side of me are surely your menial servants." The Earl replied, with a smile, ' ' That, may it please your grace, were not for mine ease. They are most of them my retainers, come to do me service at a time like this, and chiefly to see your grace." Essex was fined ten thousand pounds, penalties incurred by keeping re tainers in livery ; an offence for which, according to Hallam, the Earl of Oxford compounded by paying fifteen thousand pounds. St. Peter's Church is also the last resting-place of that erratic genius Sir Richard Steele, the essayist. Till the year 1876, when a brass plate recording his death was placed in the south wall of the town chancel at the expense of the late Mr. Valentine Davis, there was no monumental inscription to point out the spot where Steele was interred : there is a tradition that it was his wish that there should be no such record made. He was buried in the vault of the Scurlocks, in the town chancel, about four feet from the little south door of the church, a little to the right hand on entering. The broken flag-stone, thus inscribed, "Jonathan Seurlock, of Blaencorse, 1683, and John, his brother, 1715," lies under the encaustic tiles. Steele died on the 1st of September, 1729, at his house in Eing-street, afterwards called the "Ivy Bush Inn," * the site of which is now occupied by the Public Rooms and the house adjoining. His burial is entered thus in the parish register, 1729: — "Sep. 4. Sr. Richard Steel." Though some time before his death, Steele had an attack of paralysis, which incapacitated him from literary labour, it is not improbable that he died of some * The name " Ivy Bush " has probably not ceased to be borne by one or more houses in the town since the time of Steele : it was in use long before his day. The adage " good wine needs no bush " is said to refer to the Roman custom of hanging a branch of ivy, the emblem of Bacchus, at the tavern door; the proverb implying that good wine would attract drinkers, and advertise itself. A writer in the Quarterly Review remarks that " it would be curious to be able to trace the sign of the ' Ivy Bush,' a noted hostelry in Carmarthen (the Roman Mari dunum), to this ancient custom." 30 ST. peter' s CHURCH. disease raging in the town ; a reference to the table given at page 11 will show that the mortality during the month of September, 1729, was the greatest in several fatal years. The highest number registered in any month in five years of excessive mortality was twenty-nine, whereas it reached forty-five in the month in which Steele died. In removing the pews in August, 1855, the workmen discovered two stone slabs bearing an inscription in memory of Edward Atkins, who died in his mayoralty, 1613. They are of freestone, and the inscription was perfectly legible, being filled in with a black pig ment. They now occupy their old position, and are covered by the flooring, in front of the pulpit. This relic is not complete, a middle stone being wanting. At the same time four small arches in the north wall, which were previously hidden by the pews, were disclosed to view, all of which were carefully examined, it being known that the northern part of the church is of greater antiquity than the opposite side. In one of these arches, the second from the west entrance, was found a stone coffin lid, 6 feet 1 inch in length, and 21 inches in breadth at the head, gradually lessening to 14 inches at the other extremity; and having the character of a sepulchral monument of the eleventh or twelfth century. On the upper surface a head, with fleur-de-lis cross underneath, was represented in relief, and the. bevelled edge at the head and right side has the following inscription, in Roman uncials : — ricar : RO b : ber : git : ici : dev : de : l'alme : eit : merct. In reference to this inscription, it may be observed that a suffragan Bishop of St. David's, of the name of Bernard, a Norman, was consecrated July 12, 1115 ; but Bernard appears to have been the bishop's christian name. This interesting relic has very properly been replaced in the arched recess where it was found. William, first archdeacon of Carmarthen, was appointed by Bishop Bernard. The bishop died in 1150. The fragment of an effigy now in the fourth arch was in the possession of the late Mr. David Morris. Nothing is known of its history. The pews on the south side concealed a niche in the wall for a holy-water stoup. It lies between the south doors, and is only partially covered by the new pews. When the church was repewed in 1855, in removing the pulpit from the south wall, where it was placed in 1789, to its present situation, near which once stood a stone pulpit, it was found to rest on a small hexagonal block of freestone, apparently the base of a cross. This now lies under the shaft supporting the font, which has been removed from the south-west corner, and has been newly carved. It will be observed that the base and shaft are hexagonal, while the font itself has eight sides ; an irregularity which is thus accounted for. st. peter's school-church. 31 The steps leading to the rood-loft were exposed to view on the outside of the north wall, during the progress of the repairs. They are enclosed in the wall between the pulpit and the vestry door, and may be traced in the plastering on the inside of the wall. Sunday services (English): — 11 a.m. and 6-30 p.m. Litany or children's service in the afternoon. ST. PETER'S SCHOOL-CHURCH. The ceremony of laying the foundation-stone of this building was performed on the 29th of June (St. Peter's day), 1869, by Mrs. William Morris, in the presence of a large assemblage of persons who had marched in procession from Guildhall-square to the grounds. A sealed bottle, containing a printed document recording the event, gold and silver coins of the last issue, and a copy of recent local periodical publications, was placed in a hollow hewn in the stone. The building was opened on the 29th of June, 1870, when sermons were preached by the Ven. Archdeacon D. Arehard Williams, the Rev. E. Evans, Llangeitho, and the Rev. D. Howell, Cardiff. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. st. david's church, Situate on an eminence at the west end of the town, was built to meet the wants of the Welsh population. The foundation-stone was laid by Bishop Jenkinson, May 27, 1835, and the church was opened January 19, 1837. It was consecrated by Bishop Thirlwall, February 3, 1841, when his lordship preached from Psalm cxxxviii. 2. A plan for its enlargement has been projected and partially carried out ; and when completed the church will be of the form of a Latin cross. It is provided with a small organ. The new portion now in use was opened on the 13th of November, 1855. This church was to have been dedicated to St. Paul, and built on the ground where Christ Church now stands, and where the founda tion-stone was laid with due ceremony on the 27th of November, 1824, by Bishop Burgess. In consequence of some difficulties which unfortunately arose, the site could not be obtained, and the foundation-stone was taken up again. Professor Rice Rees remarks that "there is not [1836] one church or chapel dedicated to St. David in the whole of North Wales." Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. CHRIST CHURCH. The foundation-stone of this church was laid on the 2nd of September, 1867, by Dr. Prytheroe, of Llandilo, who as the free mason of highest rank present took the place of Sir Thomas D. Lloyd, of Bronwydd, who was unable to fulfil his engagement to perform the ceremony. Christ Church was consecrated and opened 5 32 LLANLLWCH CHURCH. for divine service by Bishop Thirlwall on St. Matthew's Day, Sep- tembier 21, 1869. The Rev. J. Griffiths, Neath, the Rev. J. Wil iams, Dafen, the Rev. W. Evans, Rhymney, and Dr. Griffiths, Llandilo, preached on the occasion. The organ, the joint gift of Mr. Valentine Davis and Mr. Robert Parnall, was first used m public worship May 15, 1873. Sunday services (English) : — 11 a.m. and 6-30 p.m. LLANLLWCH CHURCH Is a neat little structure, a fair specimen of a Welsh country church. It is about two miles from Carmarthen, near the south west boundary of the parish. There are only a few houses now in the neighbourhood ; but probably the population of the district was not so scanty formerly. Tradition says a town once stood there, which was submerged. Local legends generally contain a germ of truth : the name of the church implies that there was an expanse of water in its neighbourhood ; llwch, here meaning lake, being the Cymric form of the Gaelic loch. Sunday services (Welsh): — 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. alternately, and 6 p.m. THE ENGLISH WESLEYAN CHAPEL Is centrally situate, in Chapel-street, to the north of Guildhall- square. Previously to the erection of a chapel on the spot, the services were performed at the "Wesley-room," in Red-lion-yard. The first chapel was enlarged in 1821. On the 16th of June, 1861, the foundation-stone of the present building was laid by Mr. James Buckley, of Llanelly, and the chapel opened March 6, 1862. John Wesley preached, for the first time at Carmarthen, on the Castle Green, on Saturday, August 20, 1763. Sunday services : — 10-30 a.m. and 6'30 p.m. THE WELSH WESLEYAN CHAPEL, Or Ebenezer Chapel, stands about two hundred yards to the north of the above. It was built in 1824. Prior to its erection, the site it occupies was part of a marshy swamp, called the " Wild Ocean," or the "Wilderness," the draining of which has been of great benefit to the town. The first person buried in the small burial- ground attached was the Rev. John Williams, minister of the chapel, who died January 15th, 1834, aged 46. " Mai bedd ei Arglwydd mae ei gulfedd, Ni row'd o'i flaen neb yma i orwedd." * Sunday services : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. * Like his Lord's in his narrow bed, Before him none laid here his head. 33 LAMMAS-STREET CHAPEL Belongs to the Independents, and is the largest chapel in the town, at least as far as regards the area it occupies. The congregation is said to have been originally a branch of that meeting at Penygraig, in the parish of Llandyfaelog. The first chapel on the present site was built in 1726. This was pulled down, and another built in its stead, in 1802. The present building was erected in 1826. For many years the ministers and congregation were Presbyterians, and the chapel till comparatively recent times was commonly known as the Presbyterian Meeting-house. The first minister was Stephen Hughes, who was appointed during the Commonwealth to the charge of the vicarage of Mydrim, from which he was afterwards ejected and imprisoned in Carmarthen. Mr. T. Perrot was ordained by a presbytery, Matthew Henry assisting at his ordina tion. Dr. J. Jenkins, Mr. Robert Gentleman, and Mr. Richard Lloyd, immediate predecessor of Mr. David Peter, were Presby terians. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. UNION-STREET CHAPEL Is an offshoot of that last named. It stands to the north of Picton- terrace, and was built in 1846, and opened April 27th, 1847. It has a burial-ground attached ; and a school-room has recently been erected on the spot in connection with the chapel. The first person buried there was John Morris, who died May 27th, 1847. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. ELIM CHAPEL, Another place of worship within the borough belonging to the Independents, is situate about a mile from the town, a little beyond the cemetery; and was built in 1849. The first person buried in the enclosed ground annexed to the chapel was Richard Thomas, of Penlan Voss, who died October 8th, 1851. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. alternately, and 6 p.m. LAMMAS-STREET CONGREGATIONAL CHAPEL. The foundation-stone of this place of worship was laid July 3, 1861, by Mr. H. 0. Wills, of Bristol. Under the stone was put a glass jar containing a parchment document recording the names of the promoters of the undertaking, and qopies of three Carmarthen newspapers. The chapel was designed by Poulton and Woodman, Reading, and built by Douglas and Sons, Llanelly. It was opened for divine worship, May 21, 1862, on which occasion the Revs. H. Allon, Islington, Newman Hall, and Caleb Morris preached. Sunday services (English):— 11 a.m. and 6-30 p.m. 34 PRIORY- STREET CONGREGATIONAL CHAPEL. This place of worship was first opened on Sunday, May 28, 1876. The foundation-stone was laid by Mrs. Jones Jenkins ol bwansea. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. WATER-STREET CHAPEL Belongs to the Welsh Calvinistic Methodists, and though not quite so large as Lammas-street Chapel, is, in consequence of the closer arrangement of its pews, capable of seating a larger congregation. The principles of this denomination were introduced into this town by Whitfield, who was followed by Howel Harris. The first chapel on this spot was erected in 1771, on the property of the Rev. Peter Williams, the well-known Welsh Bible commentator, who, disagreeing with the connection upon some doctrinal points, withdrew himself, and retained the chapel for his own ministrations. After his death it was purchased of his executrix, in 1797, by the society who had formerly met there, and who in the meantime assembled in Friars' Park. The chapel was rebuilt in 1815. Interments have taken place in the area in front of it. The first was that of the Rev. Thomas Jones of this town, a preacher of considerable note, and author of several expository works. He was buried on the 25th of January, 1831. The Methodists have a burial-ground in Water-street, detached from the chapel. The first person buried there was Dinah Hum phreys, who died September 10th, 1843, aged 99. The ground was formerly a garden occupied by Mr. Scott, nursery-man, whose widow died some years ago at, it is said, the age of 108. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. ZION CHAPEL Stands on the left hand side of Mansel- street, leading from Lammas-street to the Market-place. It was built in 1850, by the Calvinistic Methodists, for the accommodation of the English portion of that denomination; and opened on the 1st of August, in that year. The chapel is a neat structure, with ornamental trees planted around it, and reflects credit on the taste of those who have had the management of the funds raised for its erection. Sunday services : — 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. PRIORY-STREET CHAPEL, Or Penuel, is the Baptist place of worship of longest standing in the town. The first chapel on the ground was built in 1786, by a congregation formed, 1775, of some Carmarthen people and seceders from Ffynnon Henri, Conwil, who met in Priory-street, and in 1782 in the Dark-gate. Its roof was raised six or seven feet in 1817. The present building was erected in 1851. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. 35 THE TABERNACLE. This chapel, also belonging to the Baptists, is situate in Waterloo-terrace, at the foot of Penlan Hill. The first chapel on the spot was built in 1811, and opened March, 1812. It was rebuilt in 1842. The interior was entirely renovated in a modern style in 1878, and re-opened on the 28th of April in that year, with special services on the 19th of May. The following is a curious circumstance connected with this chapel, and is worth recording. The Rev. Titus Lewis, an eminent Baptist minister, dreamt of the day of judgement, and that he saw himself rise from the spot where the Tabernacle Chapel and burying-ground are now situate, the meeting-house being then in the Dark-gate. He told some of his friends that he would get the ground for a new chapel at any cost. Though he did not live to see his wish realized, his intentions were carried out. He was buried in the ground in question before the chapel was begun ; and a large stone found in digging his grave was used for a corner stone of the building. Mrs. Barbara Rees was one of the principal contributors to the funds raised to purchase the ground. Sunday services (Welsh) : — 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. LAMMAS-STREET BAPTIST CHAPEL. This chapel was built for the use of persons preferring the English language ; it stands on the site previously occupied by the Black Horse public-house, and was opened on the 21st of June, 1870. Sunday services: — 11 a.m. and 6-30 p.m. PARC Y VELVET [UNITARIAN] CHAPEL Stands between Zion Chapel and the Market Place. It is a small but neat building, and was erected in 1849, through the agency of the late Rev. Dr. Lloyd. There is a school-house behind the chapel, under the patronage of the congregation ; but the instruction is not limited to the children of Unitarians. Sunday service (English) : — 11 a.m. THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, Situate at the upper end of Union-street, Pieton-terrace, is a.Gothic structure, designed by Mr. Charles Hansom, of Clifton, in the good taste which generally characterizes Roman Catholic edifices. It was erected between April, 1851, and August, 1852, at the expense of Miss Katherine Frances Richardson, daughter of General Richardson, and sister of Lady Straubensee, wife of Sir Charles Straubensee, and is the first Roman Catholic chapel built in the town since the Reformation. Sunday services: — 11 a.m. and 6-30 p.m. 36 OTHER PUBLIC BUILDINGS. OTHER PUBLIC BUILDINGS. THE SHIRE HALL. The Hall which preceded that now standing was built by Robert Toye* Mayor of Carmarthen in 1582. The foundation-stone of the present building was laid April 10, 1767: but the work was delayed, and nearly seven years elapsed before the first assizes were held in it. This took place March 30, 1774. It is a respectable building, standing on Tuscan pillars, which some years after its erection were concealed by two ugly curved flights of steps, removed after the transfer of the hall to the county authorities, January, 1860, who thereupon re- arranged the internal accommo dation. The hall contains a full-length portrait of General Sir Thomas Picton, G.C.B., by Sir Martin Shee, presented to the county by his brother, the late Rev. Edward Picton, of Iscoed ; and three faithful portraits by T. Brigstocke : one, that of General * The Toys (or Toyes) were a race of printers, in business in London. John Toye printed in " Poules churche yard, at the sygne of saynte Nycolas," in 1531. Robert Toye, father of Humphrey, mayor of Carmarthen, 1557, followed the profession of printer and publisher at the sign of the Bell, St. Paul's Churchyard, from 1541 till 1551. He died in 1556, and his widow carried on the business for some time, until she was succeeded by her son Humphrey. Humphrey Toye lived at the sign of the Helmet, in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1550 — 1574, and in 1579 he received the freedom of the Stationers' Company. His grandmother (mother of Robert Toy) was a Welshwoman, daughter of Dafydd ab Dafydd, of Carmarthen: hence the connection of the Toys with the place. His mother also, Elizabeth Toy, was Welsh, daughter of Gruffydd ab John Dafydd Llwyd. He was buried in St. Peter's Church, Carmarthen, near the south porch, and his tombstone bore a brass plate thus inscribed : — " Here Humphrey Toye and Jane his wife Inclosed are in clay, Which is the resting-place of flesh, Until the later day. Of thirteen sons and daughters eight The Lord them parents made, Till cruel Death did work his spite Caused fickle life to fade." Humphrey Toy was instrumental in bringing out William Salesbury's New Testament, the first Welsh translation published. It was " imprinted at London, by Henry Denham, at the Costes and Charges of Humfrey Toy, dwelling in Paules churchyarde, at the sigue of the helmet. Cumpririlegio ad imprimendum solum. Anno 1567, Octob. 7." The Welsh translation of the Common Prayer Book, by W. Salesbury and Bishop R. Davies, was also " imprinted at London, by Henry Denham," the same year, " at the costes aud charges of Humfrey Toy." Salesbury, when superintending the printing of his Testament, lodged at Hum frey Toy's, in London. He probably became acquainted with him at Bishop Richard Davies's, at Abergwili. Robert Toye, cursitor, mayor of Carmarthen in 1582, was probably one of the thirteen sons of Humphrey Toy above named. Auother Robert Toy died in office as sheriff of the borough in 1645. His name and that of John David, his co-sheriff, are among the signatures to the declaration of allegiance to the Parliament, when the town was surrendered to General Laugharne. THE CARMARTHEN PUBLIC ROOMS. 37 Nott, painted shortly after his triumphal entry into Carmarthen, on his return from India; another, that of John Jones, Esq., of Ystrad, who for several years represented the borough and county of Carmarthen in Parliament. Mr. Jones was chairman of the Quarter Sessions, recorder of Kidwelly, and for many years prac tised successfully as a barrister on the South Wales circuit. His portrait is appropriately placed in the hall, where frequently, unsolicited and unpaid, he espoused the cause of the undefended accused with an amount of forensic skill that made his benevolence triumphant, too often perhaps at the expense of justice. The third is that of David Morris, Esq., late member of Parliament for the united boroughs of Carmarthen and Llanelly, which distinguished position he held from his first election in 1837 till his death, a period of twenty-seven years. Mr. Morris's portrait was presented to the town of Carmarthen, in the hall, October 3, 1859, by the subscribers, Mr. George Bagnall speaking for them, and Mr. Henry Norton, mayor, representing the town. In the grand jury room, an apartment in the building adjoining the hall, are busts of Dr. Thirlwall, Bishop of St. David's, and George Rice, fourth Lord Dynevor, by Edward Davies, sculptor of Nott's statue. THE CARMARTHEN PUBLIC ROOMS Were erected by a company incorporated for the purpose, and opened November 21, 1854. They contain a commodious suite of rooms, for use on public occasions. The other portion of the building is occupied by the Carmarthen Literary and Scientific Institution. This institution was founded in the year 1840 by a few young men, of whom the writer of these pages was one. Since that time the number of members has gradually and steadily increased; and it promises long to continue to exert a beneficial influence on the young men of the town. It is provided with a respectable library and a reading-room well supplied with newspapers and periodicals, which advantages may be enjoyed at the expense of a very trifling quarterly subscription. Lectures are given occasionally in connection with the institution. There is also a small collection of geological specimens and articles of virtu, forming the nucleus of a museum of local curiosities. THE CARMARTHEN COUNTY AND BOROUGH INFIRMARY Was founded through the instrumentality of Mr. Thomas Charles Morris, during his mayoralty. Dr. Henry Lawrence had some years before endeavoured to establish a public dispensary, which good purpose he abandoned, failing support. Mr. Morris's proposal, however, met a better fate. The meeting at which the founding of the infirmary was resolved on was held October 24, 1846, Sir John Mansel in the chair, when the Hon. George Rice Trevor (afterwards Lord Dynevor), who had warmly seconded Mr. Morris's efforts, Bishop Thirlwall, and other influential personages, supported 38 THE LUNATIC ASYLUM. the project. Patients were to have been received at the barracks, near Picton's Monument, which was to have been fitted up for ^ . their admission, when a legal obstruction arose, resulting in serious | J loss to the subscribers, the Government taking possession of the building. The old borough gaol was afterwards used as a temporary substitute for the present substantial building in Priory- street. This noble edifice stands on the site occupied by Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School previously to its amalgamation with Sir Thomas Powell's School. It was designed by Mr. Jenkins, of London, and built by Mr. W. Lewis, of Carmarthen The foundation-stone was laid, May 14, 1857, by Bishop Thirlwall; and the infirmary was opened for the reception of patients July 1, 1858. The total cost of the building, including the purchase of the site and legal and other expenses, was £4495 10s. 7d, The following is a copy of the inscription on a piece of vellum enclosed in a bottle placed in the stone under the foundation-stone of the infirmary : — " The Foundation-Stone of this Infirmary, for the use of the County and County of the Borough of Carmarthen, was laid on Thursday, the 14th day of May, in the year of our Lord one thousand, eight hundred, and fifty-seven, and in the 21st year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, by Connop, Lord Bishop of St. David's, in the 17th year of his episcopate. Lord Dynevor, President. Henry Lawrence, Esq., Physician. Edmund Hill Stacey, Esq., Consulting Surgeon. John Hughes, Esq., 1 „ James Rowlands, Esq., / Surgeons- Geo. S. Symons, Esq., House-surgeon. Thomas Charles Morris, Esq., 1 „, William Morris, Esq., / J-™^1™3. William Wesley Jenkins, Architect. William Lewis, Builder. John W. White, Secretary." THE LUNATIC ASYLUM For the counties of Carmarthen, Cardigan, and Pembroke, stands on an eminence westward of the Training College, and is the most conspicuous building seen on approaching the town from the south and east. It was built by Mr. Pollard, of Taunton, whose tender, £24,950, was accepted in February, 1863, and it has since been enlarged several times. Part of it was completed and opened in November, 1865. Since that time the mansions of Job's Well and Rhyd y Gors have been utilized for the admission of more patients. The number under treatment has consequently increased. It stood thus at the end of each of the last five years : 1876. 1877. 1878. 1S79. 1880. Males . . . 181 188 199 211 244 Females.. . 179 187 201 222 277 Totals ... 360 375 400 433 521 39 HER MAJESTY'S PRISON. The County Gaol, begun in 1789 and finished in 1792, was built by Nash,* the architect of Buckingham Palace and the Pavilion at Brighton. John Howard, the philanthropist, who visited Carmarthen prison in 1774 and in May, 1788, suggested plans for its reconstruction, which were carried out, Parliament having authorized the raising of money to defray the expense. It occupied part of the site of the old castle, some of the remains of which are incorporated in the building. The Castle-green, on which there were several dwelling-houses, and over which there had long existed a thoroughfare from Spilman-street to Bridge- street, was added to the gaol in 1868-69, when the high wall facing the river was built partly on the castle walls. The prison thus formed is commodious, and in it the prisoners from the town and county, and since 1878 from two adjoining counties, are confined. It contains a neat chapel. Before the passing of the act abolishing public executions, criminals convicted of capital offences were executed on a platform raised inside and above the front wall which faces Spilman-street. Two executions only have taken place in the town since the erection of the building. The first, that of Wm. Baines for forging Bank of England notes, took place May 23, 1818; the other was that of David Evans, who was executed Sept. 21, 1829, for murdering his sweet-heart, Hannah Davies, on Pencareg Mountain, on the 13th of June, the same year. Prior to 1818, executions of county convicts took place at Pensarn, and those of town convicts on the common at the Royal Oak. THE MARKET-PLACE AND SLAUGHTER-HOUSE. The market-place is very commodious, equal indeed to the requirements of a larger town than Carmarthen. It is, however, well thronged on market-days, and better supplied with butchers' meat, poultry, and vegetables than those of many country towns of greater wealth and importance. It was opened on the 1st of August, 1846. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday, with a cattle- market on the first Wednesday in every month. The old market-place for butchers' meat occupied the ground on which the Merlin Brewery now stands. It was constructed 1800-1, and continued in use till superseded by the present erection. Corn and meal were sold in a flagged area on the ground floor of the hall, which was set apart for that purpose when the hall was rebuilt, and was opened October 24, 1772. The butter and fish * A little cottage (demolished 1858) in the Brickyard-lane, near the Gas Works, was built by Nash. He also built the house at Green Gardens, where he resided; and the Six Bells, near St. Peter's Church, in the plan of which he forgot the staircase (!) — a defect not supplied in such a manner as to conceal the original oversight. 6 40 picton's monument. markets were at the Market-cross (removed in June, 1846), where Nott's Monument stands. Poultry was sold there before ashed was added to the meat-market to accommodate dealers. Cheese was sold chiefly in St. -Mary-street ; seeds in Nott-square, then called Upper Market-street ; and shoes on the south side of Guild- hall-square. Booths (especiaUy hatters') and stalls thickly studded the streets, which were scarcely passable on Saturdays. Prior to this, the meat-market was held in a yard called Clos Mawr, behind the house No. 1, Guildhall-square, where also and more recently was the " Round House " or lock-up. This market, erected in 1766, was used for the sale of potatoes, when disused as a meat market. The slaughter-house and cattle-market, situate at a convenient proximity to the north of the market-place, were completed in 1855. PICTON 8 MONUMENT Is a plain quadrangular obelisk, about sixty feet high, formed of gray limestone. It occupies the spot on which some years ago stood a more elaborate column erected to the memory of the same hero. The proportions of the first monument were objected to as inelegant ; but it is clear that those who substituted for it the present pile did not possess in an eminent degree any of the qualifications of practical reformers. The monument is inscribed thus : — [back and front] " Picton, Born August 24, 1758, Fell at Waterloo, June 18, 1815." [NORTH] "Picton: Busaco : Badajos: Vittoria:" [south] " Picton : Orthes : Toulouse : Waterloo : '" The foundation-stone of the first monument, also built of lime stone, was laid by Lady Dynevor, with great pomp and ceremony, on the 16th of August, 1825, when a great number of the gentry from this and the adjoining counties, lodges of freemasons from Swansea, Neath, Cardiff, Milford, and Carmarthen, clergy in their canonicals, the Cymmrodorion Society, and others, formed a proces sion to the spot. Bodies of yeomanry cavalry lined the road as the procession passed on. Gold, silver, and copper coins, and Picton's Waterloo medal, were put in the stone under a plate inscribed thus : — " This the first Stone of the Column erected to the Memory of our gallant countryman, Lieutenant General Sir Thomas Picton, (Knight Grand Cross of the Bath, and of several Foreign orders), who, after serving his king and country in several campaigns, died gloriously at the Battle of Waterloo, was laid by the Right Honourable Frances, Baroness Dynevor, assisted by Sir Christopher Cole, (Knight Commander of the Bath, Captain in the Royal Navy of Britain, Mem ber of Parliament for the County of Glamorgan, and Provincial Grand Master of Masons for South Wales), on the 16th Day of August, 1825." The First Picton's Monument. picton's monument. 41 The monument was completed in 1827, at an expense of £3000. Its extreme height was seventy-five feet. It had a winding stair case leading to the top of the column, where there was a square gallery, with small cannons at the corners, from which rose a pillar surmounted with a bronze statue of Picton, nine feet six inches high. On the back and front of the quadrilateral pedestal were alto-relievo representations of his assault on Badajos, and his death at Waterloo — a soldier of the Scots Grays receiving his fall ing chief in his arms — with the names of the battles at which he fought ; and on the sides the following Welsh and English inscrip tions, with trophies of war at each corner of the pedestal : — [north side] " Syr Thomas Picton, Marchawg Croesfawreddawg Urddiant Milwraidd y Baddon, Urddiannau Borthgalaidd y Twr a'r Cleddyf, ac Urddiannau Tramor- awl ereill, Cadfridawg yn y Fyddin Brydeinaidd, ac Aelawd y Senedd dros Frein-dref Penfro, a anwyd ym Mhoyston, yn Nyfed, Awst, 1758, a fu farw yng Nghadfaes Waterloo, y 18fed o Fehefin, 1815, yn ymladd yn arwrawl dros ei Wlad a Rhyddid Ewropa. Gwedi cyflawni yn anrhydeddus ym mhlaid y Wlad- wriaeth amrywiol ddyledswyddau mevra amryfel hingylchoedd ac wedi cyrbaedd y clod milwraidd uchaf, yn yr Or-ynys Hispaenaidd, teirgwaith y derbyniodd ddiolchgarwch y Senedd, a Chof Addurn hardd a gyfodwyd gan y Deyrnas Gyfunedig yn Eglwys Gadeiriawl Sant Pawl, a draetha i'r oesau dyfodadwy ei angeu a'i weithredion. Ei wladwyr diolchgar, er bytholi egnion a fu, ac er annogi rhai i f od, a ddyrchaf ant y golofn hon, dan nawdd ei Fawrhydi y Brenin George y Pedwerydd, i argofiant Gwron a Chymro. " Darfelyddiad a chynllun y gofadael hon a roddwyd gan ein cydwladwr John Nash, Yswain, C.C.F. adeiladydd y Brenin. Gweithredwyd yr addurniadau gan E. H. Bailey, Yswain, C.B. ac adeiladwyd y cyfan gan Mr. Daniel Mainwaring, maen-saer o Gaerfyrddin, yn y blynyddau 1826 ac 1827." [south side] " Sir Thomas Picton, Knight Grand Cross of the Military Order of the Bath, of the Portuguese Order of the Tower and the Sword, and of other Foreign Orders, Lieutenant-General in the British army, and Member of Parliament for the Borough of Pembroke, born at Poyston, in Pembrokeshire, in August, 1 758, died at Waterloo, on the 18th of June, 1815, gloriously fighting for his country and the liberties of Europe. Having honourably fulfilled on behalf of the public various duties in various climates, and having achieved the highest military renown in the Spanish Peninsula, he thrice received the unanimous thanks of Parliament, and a Monument erected by the British nation in St. Paul's Cathedral commemorates his death and services. His grateful countrymen, to perpetuate past, and excite future exertions, have raised this column, under the auspices of His Majesty King George the Fourth, to the memory of a Hero and a Welshman. " The plan and design of this monument was given by our countryman John Nash, Esq., F.R.S. architect to the King. The ornaments were executed by E. H. Bailey, R.A., and the whole was erected by Mr. Daniel Mainwaring, of the town of Carmarthen, in the years 1826 and 1827." In the beginning of May, 1859, a letter appeared in the " Times" stating that in the vaults of a cemetery, on the Bayswater Road, might be seen the thick chest, or oak box, in which lay the remains of Sir Thomas Picton, as they had been packed in the village of Waterloo and sent to England. The correspondent suggested that they should be removed to a suitable mausoleum ; and Dr. John Picton, in a letter in reply, said that it would be more gratifying to the feelings of the family if Government transferred the remains 42 nott's monument. to some appropriate place, although he would willingly bear the expense of their removal as a personal matter. Accordingly, on Wednesday, June 8th, 1859, Sir Thomas Picton's remains were removed from the burial-ground of St. George's, Hanover-square, and silently deposited in a vault prepared for them in the crypt of St. Paul's Cathedral, not far from the tomb of Wellington, his illustrious chief. Dr. Picton represented the Picton family in the procession. The same day, Capt. Edwardes Gwynne, one of the few Peninsular officers surviving at the time, presented to the Car marthen Literary and Scientific Institution, for its museum, a cane bearing on its metal mounting this inscription : — " This cane was in the hand of Sir Thomas Picton, G.C.B., when he gloriously fell at' the battle of Waterloo, 18th June, 1815." He fell while repulsing one of the most serious assaults of the enemy, at the head of his men who had earned under him the title of ' ' the fighting division." The shot that laid him low struck bim in his right temple, and he died without a struggle : the ball, al most perforating the skin on the opposite part of his head, was cut out with a razor. It was not known till after the battle that he entered into action wounded, having been struck two days before with a musket-ball which broke two of his ribs — a fact which he concealed from everyone but his servant who bound up the wound. " Leading his gallant men, as he was wont, The hot assailants' onset to repel, Advancing hat in hand, here in the front Of battle and of danger, Picton fell : Lamented chief I than whom no braver name His country's annals shall consign to fame." When Picton retired from the government of Trinidad, the sum of £5000 was voted him by the inhabitants in token of their esteem. Some time after, their chief town was burnt down, and Picton gladly seized the opportunity to devote the £5000 to the relief of the sufferers. At the close of the Peninsular War, Picton received the thanks of the House of Commons for the seventh time, June, 1814, twelve months before the close of his brilliant career. NOTT 8 MONUMENT. The very chaste monument erected to the memory of General Sir William Nott, stands in Nott-square, on the site of the old Market- cross. It consists of a full-length bronze statue of Sir William, attired in a Roman toga, elevated on a granite pedestal, bearing this inscription : — "NOTT. Born 20th January, 1 782. Died 1st January, 1815." The statue was executed by Edward Davies, son of David Daniel Davies, Esq., M.D., once a poor boy at Llandyfaelog, afterwards a WELSH FUSILIERS' MONUMENT. 43 physician of celebrity in London; and the monument was erected in 1850-51. Nott was the son of an extensive mail contractor, proprietor of the Ivy Bush, in King-street, Carmarthen. He entered the service of the East India Company in 1800; and after twenty-six years' arduous service he returned to Carmarthen with impaired health, and purchased Job's Well estate with a view to ending his days here ; but the failure of the Calcutta Bank reducing his income, he returned to India, where he soon again distinguished himself. Being invested with the command of the troops in Scinde and lower Affghanistan, he extricated the British army from over whelming difficulties, fighting victoriously battle after battle with great disparity of troops. At Khelat, with 1200 men he routed Suffer Jung and Akbar Khan, whose combined forces amounted to 10,000, and he took Ghuznee under similar disadvantages. These achievements, with his rescue of the heroic Lady Sale and his release of the captives at Cabul, called forth the gratitude and enthusiasm of the whole British nation. He was knighted G.C.B., and the East India Company voted him an annuity of £1000. On his return to Carmarthen, he took up his temporary residence at No. 8, Guildhall-square, where he died at the too early age of sixty-three. WELSH EUSILIERS' MONUMENT. The elegant little monument, in Lammas-street, to the memory of the soldiers of the 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers who fell in the Russian war, was erected at the expense of Colonel Lysons (of the 25th Queen's Own Borderers), late of the 23rd, and. the officers of that gallant regiment. On the pedestal and shaft are inscribed the names of all the officers and men belonging to the regiment who fell on the field of battle, or were cut off by disease during the war. The monument is surmounted with a plume of feathers in gold, and surrounded with a cast-iron railing in the form of crossed muskets. It was erected in August, 1858. On the 17th of March, 1689, Henry Lord Herbert, authorized by William III., raised a regiment of infantry in Wales and some adjacent counties : this was the origin of the 23rd, which was one of twelve regiments formed to oppose the adherents of James II. It is said that the first man enrolled in it was one Stacey of Friars' - park, Carmarthen, whose relatives were butchers there. The monument bears the inscriptions given on the following page, with lists, on the north, south, and west sides, of the officers and men who fell in the Crimean war- Unfortunately what was intended to be, in the words of the inscription, "an enduring record," soon began to yield to the action of the atmosphere ; " The deep cut marble, Unsteady to the steel, gives up its charge ;" and in October, 1860, tablets of white marble were placed in the 44 EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS. room of those originally recording the names of the soldiers who perished in the campaign. [i. — FRONT] Minden. Egypt. Martinique. Albuera. Badajos. Salamanca. Vittoria. Pyrenees. Nivelle. Orthes. Toulouse. Peninsula. Waterloo. Sebastopol. Crimea. SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF THE OFFICERS AND SOLDIERS OF THE "ROYAL WELSH FUSILIERS," Whose names are inscribed on the adjoining Tablets, who fell in the service of their Country during the War with Russia, in 1854, and 1855. This Mohument was Erected a.d. 1858, As an enduring record of the gallant deceased, by the Officers then serving or who had served in the corps. " Fear not them which kill the body, but are not able to kill the soul." St. Matt. *.. 28. [ii. — north or left side] ALMA. " Nec Aspera Terrent." Alma, Sept. 20, 1854. [ill.— REAR, OR WEST SIDE] INKERMAN. TRENCHES. Inkermann, Nov. 5th, 1854. In Trenches before Sebastopol, 1854 and 1855. Of Disease during the War. [iv. — south, or right side] REDAN. "Ich Dien." Redan, Sept. 8, 1855. The Russian gun in front of the Welsh Fusiliers' Monument is one of the trophies brought from the Crimea, and was placed there November 5th, 1859, the anniversary of the battle of Inkermann. EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS. CARMARTHEN GRAMMAR SCHOOL, For many years an important educational institution in Priory- street, from which young men were admitted to holy orders in the Church of England, "was founded by Letters Patent dated 7th July, 18 EUzabeth, A.D. 1576, at the petition of Walter, Earl of Essex ; Richard Davies, Bishop of St. David's ; Sir James Crofft, Knight ; Griffin Rece, Esq., and Walter Vaughan, Esq., aldermen of Carmarthen ; and Robert Toye, gentleman, one of the burgesses of that town." An effort had been made to establish a high school at the House of the Gray Friars, which had been granted, 34 Henry VIII., to Thomas Lloyd, probably the same person that is mentioned in the following petition as liberally offering to main tain the school. Unfortunately that petition was disregarded. CARMARTHEN GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 45 " To the righte honorable Lorde Privie Seale. " Pleasethe it your Honor to be advertised that the Cite and Mansion of the Oraie Freres in the Kinges Towne of Caermarthen, in Southe "Wales, was of late surrendride in to the Kinges bandes, and is and haithe ever sence ben voide and desolate, runnynge dayelye in contynuall ruyne and decaie : fior there is no fote of lede apon anie parte thereof, and it were pitie that suche buyldinge, in suche a baron contrie, shulde not be convaied to sume lawful and convenient use, for the mayntenance of the common wealthe. Wherefore if it maye please your Lordshipe to be a meane to the Kinges Magestie that the Mayre and Aldermen of the said towne maye have and enjoye for ever, to them and theyre successors, the same Cite and Mansion with thre medoes of pasture grownde, with a garthin and orcherde at the backside, to the same belonginge, being at th' annuall rent of xvirj8 in the hoole, so that they maye have a Grammer Scole at the coste and charge of Mayster Thomas Lloyd, chaunter of Sainte Davies there maynteyned, and otherwise the same to bestowe for the common wealthe and commoditie of the same towne; the said Mayre and Aldermen nowe there, for the time beinge, will give his Magestie xl** sterlinge for the same Cite and Mansion, with th' appurtenauncis as is aforesaide, and to your good Lordshipe xx'' for your good mediation and travaile taken to bringe it to passe, over and besides the con tynuall praier and service not only of the saide Mayre and Aldermen now beinge, but also of all the hoole inhabitantis of the same towne, and all the whole countrie thereabouts. As knowes oure Lord God, who preserve yor Honor longe to his pleasure. Amen. " By yor Lordshippes bedismen the Mayre and Aldermen of the Kinges Towne of Caermarthin it Sowthe Wales." Another school, founded by Sir Thomas Powell, bart., of Broad way, was, in the year 1857, amalgamated with Queen Elizabeth's School, the ground of which was unwisely alienated to provide a site for the infirmary. The school is now kept in the building erected a few years previously for Sir Thomas Powell's School, in an inconvenient situation near Pare y Berllan, to the east of the Parade. Jones Lloyd, the eminent London banker, was educated at Powell's school. The Grammar School, built of " white hard stone," bore in 1684 in front the Carmarthen Arms, with this inscription underneath : — RENOVATA EUIT SCHOLA HJEC PUBLICA SUB PRjETORE IOHANE SCURLOCK ARMIGERO. ANNO SALUTIS MDCLXII. On the occasion of removing the school-house, to build the infir mary, two fragments of a stone tablet were found, bearing little more than half of the first two lines of a Greek inscription : the remainder of the stone could not be found. A curious observer, who copied the inscription about two hundred years ago, has enabled us to give it now in full. It ran thus : — 'Oix.olop.elv X°°P^ 0eP"s^B "¦""'f ^°"n rtaTa,/°f No£rjj XpiGTOWviai tyh- The lines may be translated thus: — "To build a house without a foundation is labour in vain, and to learn without grammar is as 7 46 CARMARTHEN GRAMMAR SCHOOL. empty as the winds. Yet thou shalt begin from Christianity." An able Greek scholar has rendered it thus : — "With no foundation, there's no use of building ; And without grammar just as vain is learning. To crown the whole, there must be Christian training." Several eminent men received their education at the Priory-street Grammar Shool. Among them were four learned bishops. Lewis Bayly, a native of Carmarthen, minister of Evesham, Worcestershire, and of St. Matthew's, Friday-street, London, chaplain to Prince Henry and afterwards to James I., was educated at Carmarthen Grammar School, previous to entering Exeter Col lege, Oxford. He was consecrated Bishop of Bangor, December 8, 1606; and died, October 23, 1631. He is known as the author of an elaborate treatise called the Practice of Pietie, the fifty-ninth edition of which was published in 1734. This work was translated into Welsh in 1620, by Rowland Vaughan, of Caergai, Merioneth shire, but not published till 1630, when it appeared under the title of Ymarfer o Bduwioldeb. The Welsh translation eventually went through at least six editions. A French translation was published in 1633. In 1665, a small 8vo edition, translated by John Eliot, was printed at Cambridge, America, in the language of the Indians of Massachusetts. The following is its title : — " Manitowompae Pomantamoonk : Sampwshanau Christianoh Dttoh woh an Pomantog wussikkitteahonat G6d." Eliot completed his Indian version of the Bible in 1663. Morgan Owen, D.D., Bishop of Llandaff, born at Glasallt, Myddfai, near Llandovery, descended from the celebrated line of physicians, Meddygon Myddfai, was, previously to entering Jesus College, Oxford, in 1608, brought up at Carmarthen School — a cir cumstance which led to his leaving £20 a year towards its mainten ance, payable out of the revenue of the parish of St. Ishmael. He graduated as B.A. in 1613, MA. in 1616, and was made chap lain of New College. He became chaplain to Laud, when Bishop of St. David's, and was consecrated by him in 1639. Dr. Owen was one of the protesting bishops committed to the Tower of Lon don in 1641, where he was confined four months. He died at Glasallt, almost immediately after receiving intelligence of the execution of his friend and patron Laud, January 10, 1644 — 1645, and was buried in the chancel of the church of his native parish. Another prelate who received early instruction at Queen Eliza beth's Grammar School was Thomas Howel, D.D., son of a vicar of Abernant and Conwil, of the same name, and elder brother of the celebrated James Howel, author of Epistolm Ho-Eliana, or, Familiar Letters, who was made by Charles II. the first historiographer- royal in England. Dr. Thomas Howel was successively chaplain in ordinary to Charles I., rector of West Horsley, Surrey, and of St. Stephen's, Walbrook, Canon of Windsor, and Bishop of Bristol, consecrated 1644. He died in 1646, and was buried in CARMARTHEN GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 47 Bristol Cathedral: his tomb bore the simple inscription, "Ex- pergiscar "—I shall be awakened. William Thomas, born 1613 at Bristol, descended frorn a Car marthenshire family, was the son of John Thomas, a linen draper of that city, whose father, William Thomas, had creditably filled the office of recorder of Carmarthen. He was brought up by his grandfather, and was educated at Carmarthen Grammar School and St. John's College, Oxford. He was ordained deacon in 1637, and priest in 1638 ; and he became successively vicar of Penbryn, Cardiganshire, and Laugharne, Carmarthenshire. In 1644, he was sequestered for his loyalty, suffered great hardships, and obtained a livelihood by keeping a school at Laugharne. After the Restoration he became Chanter of St. David's; Chaplain to the Duke of York; Rector of Llanbedr, in Pembrokeshire, in 1661 ; Dean of Worcester in 1665; Rector of Hampton Lovet, 1670; Bishop of St. David's in 1677 ; and Bishop of Worcester in 1683. He died June 25, 1689, and was buried in the cloisters of Worces ter Cathedral. A learned Assize Sermon, preached by him at Car marthen, March 16, 1656, was published in 1657. Its title ran thus : — " The Regulating of Law-suits, Evidences, and Pleadings. An Assize-Sermon, Preach't at Carmarthen, March, the 16th, 1656, by William Thomas, vicar of Laughorn. Tnter leges ipsas delinquitur, inter jura peccatur. Innocentia non illic ubi defenditur, reservatur. D. Cypr, lib. 2. Bp. 2. [Arms and motto "Ad ardua per aspera tendo."] London, Printed at the request of some eminent auditors. Sold by Gabriel Bedell and T. Collins, at the Middle-Temple-gate in Fleet-street. 1657." Another honoured name is that of Griffith Jones, of Llanddowror, who as a religious reformer and patriot preceded Wesley and Whit field, Rowlands of Llangeitho, Howel Harris, and others. He was born at Cilrhedin in 1683, and was ordained from the Grammar School, September 6, 1708, by Bishop Bull. About the year 1730, aided by the liberality of Madam Bridget Bevan, of Laugharne, widow of Arthur Bevan, Esq., recorder of Carmarthen, and M.P. for the borough, he founded the Welsh circulating charity schools, which for 140 years were of much service to the Welsh peasantry ; not only children, but adults being instructed in them after the toils of the day. It is recorded that there were 215 schools in operation in Wales, 128 in South Wales, and 87 in North Wales, before their benevolent founder's death. The good man's life of literary and ministerial labours will excuse the fervour of his elegist, refering to his entering his rest : — " 'Rown i acw," ebe Uriel, Angel cadarn ; " yn y fan Ni ganasom ganiad newydd Pan y daeth ef gynta' i'r Ian ; Pan y ca's y delyn auraidd, Pan y ca's y gwisgoedd glan, Ni fu mwy o lawen groeso 'Neb o Gymru 'rioed o'r blaen.' " There I stood," said mighty Uriel, " With a myriad angels more, A new song we sang delighted, When he reached the heavenly shore ; When he gained the bright white garments And the golden harp of heaven, To a soul from Cambria's mountains Warmer welcome ne'er was given." 48 THE PRESBYTERIAN COLLEGE. Other men of mark in various walks of life who had been pttpils at Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School were Moses Williams, the able reviser of the Welsh Bible and Common Prayer Book of 1718 — he bore the chief part in translating the Laws of Hywel Dda into Latin, a work attributed to Dr. Wotton ; D. Daniel Davies, Esq., Physician to the Queen's Lying-in Hospital, and to the Duchess of Kent, whom he attended when Queen Victoria was born ; Beau Nash, who proceeded thence to Jesus College, Oxford ; Edward Richard,* the patriotic founder of Ystrad Meirig Grammar School, and author of Welsh pastorals deemed unsurpassed by any similar productions of the classic authors for pathos and natural poetic expression ; Peter Williams, the well-known Welsh Bible commentator ; and. his son, Eliezer Williams, founder of Lampeter Grammar School. Dafydd Ionawr, author of " Cywydd y Drin- dod," was once an assistant teacher at the school. THE PRESBYTERIAN COLLEGE Was first established in Carmarthen about the beginning of the eighteenth century, by Mr. William Evans, Nonconformist minister, of Carmarthen, shortly after the death of Mr. Rees Pryddereh, of Ystrad Walter, at whose academy he had received a part of his education ; and who is known as the author of a scarce work, called Gemau Boetkineb. Mr. W. Evans was ordained at Pencader in 1688, and he remained there fifteen years; he removed to Car marthen in 1703, and died in 1720. At the death of Mr. Samuel Jones, of Tewkesbury, in 1719, the college which he had conducted was amalgamated with that at Carmarthen. The following gentle men successively presided over the college :— Mr. Thomas Perrot, of Newmarket, Flint, 1720; Mr. Perrot died December 26, 1733; Mr. Yavasor Griffiths, Llwyn Llwyd, Hay, Brecon, 1733 ; Mr. Evan Davies, Haverfordwest, who removed the academy to that town, 1741 ; and re-established it at Carmarthen, 1743, when Mr. Samuel Thomas was appointed his colleague, and for some years the Congregational and Presbyterian Boards were united in the support and management of the academy. Owing to a misunder standing between the tutors, arising from Mr. Thomas's Arminian- ism, the establishment was for a time broken up ; and the Congre gational Board withdrew its support altogether, and instituted another academy on their own principles, which they have since continued to support, and of whii^h the Brecon Independent College is the present representative. The Presbyterian Board, however, took measures for continuing the academy; and, in 1766, appointed Dr. J. Jenkins tutor. Mr. Robert Gentleman, of Shrewsbury, undertook the duties of the college, 1768, assisted by Mr. B. Davies. On Mr. Gentleman's * E. Richard opened his school in 1735; and believing himself unable to do justice to his numerous pupils, he honestly closed it, and devoted himself to some years of unremitting study before opening it again, betaking himself daily, summer and winter, at four in the morning to Ystrad Meirig Church. TRAINING COLLEGE. 49 resignation, the academy was removed to Swansea, and placed under the care of Mr. Solomon Harris, who was succeeded, in 1786, by Mr. William Howell and Mr. Thomas Lloyd. In 1797, the academy was restored to Carmarthen, and Mr. David Peter and Mr. D. Davies, of Llanybri, were appointed tutors. Mr. Davies was succeeded by Mr. D. L. Jones, Mr. Palmer, Dr. Lloyd, and Mr. Hunter. Mr. D. Davies, of Pant-teg, was appointed in the room of Mr. Peter. Dr. Thomas Nicholas followed. The duties of a third tutor have been discharged successively by Dr. S. C. Davison and Dr. William Davies. The present tutors are Dr. Vance Smith, Rev. Wm. Morgan, and Rev. D. E. Jones., Several men whose lives were creditable to Wales were educated at the academy ; among the number might be named Dr. Abraham Rees, Thomas Charles of Bala, and David Davies of Castell Hywel. Dr. Rees was a man of great learning. The elaborate Encyclo paedia, projected, edited, and in great measure written by him, extended to forty-one quarto volumes, published half-yearly. He had previously edited Ephraim Chambers's Cyclopaedia, in four folio volumes. Thomas Charles was the son of a farmer living in the parish of Llanfihangel Abercowin, Carmarthenshire. When in his twentieth year, he went to Oxford; and having^obtained deacon's orders, he was appointed to a curacy in Somersetshire. He took a conspicuous part in founding the British and Foreign Bible Society. David Davies studied under Dr. Jenkins, when'^the academy was at Spring Gardens. He was an original poet of no mean order ; and his translation of Gray's Elegy, Pope's Universal Prayer, and other English poems, have been justly admired for their felicitous adaptation to Welsh feelings and associations. His epitaph on Dr. Priestley, referring to the doctor's belief in material ism, is worth quoting : — " Here lie at rest, In Oaken chest, Together packed most nicely, The bones, and brains, Flesh, blood, and veins, And soul of Dr. Priestley." THE SOUTH WALES AND MONMOUTHSHIRE TRAINING COLLEGE Is a pretty Elizabethan structure, occupying a slight eminence to the north of the road leading from Picton's Monument to John's- town. The foundation-stone was laid by Bishop|iThirlwall, July 16th, 1847, and the building was opened Oct. 24th, 1848. It provides instruction for 60 pupils. The college, which is in con nection with the National Society, was founded for the purpose of training young men to become duly qualified teachers, and has already raised the standard of qualifications required in parish schools in this part of the principality. The first principal of the college was the Rev. W. Reed, 1848; succeeded by Rev. E. B. Biddick, 1868 ; Rev. Rupert H. Morris, 1869 ; Rev. W. H. Parry, 1876; Rev. C. G. Brown, 1881. 50 THE CHARITY SCHOOLS. ^Boys', girls', and infants' schools have existed for many years attached to St. Peter's Church. They are now held at St. Peter s School-church and at Towy-side. A Sunday-school was estab lished at St. Peter's in 1787, the first in South Wales after the movement with which the name of Robert Raikes is associated. St. David's elementary school is held in Bridge-street. _ The National and Practising Schools, for boys and girls, are in connection with the Training College. The Lancasterian School was founded in the mayoralty of Mr. David Morris, who presided at a meeting convened (Feb. 16, 1813) in accordance with a requisition. The Rev. W. H. Barker, Vicar of St. Peter's, Dr. C. Morgan, and the Rev. D. Peter took a chief part in the meeting. It was opened Jan. 25, 1814. The present boys' school was opened Nov. 25, 1850, and the girls', Jan. 20, 1851. They were transferred to the School-board, Oct., 1871. WALKS, COUNTRY STROLLS, AND EXCURSIONS. The town is approached on all sides by a great number of turn pike roads, highways, and footpaths, many of these quickly eon- ducting to eminences commanding extensive and varied views of the picturesque Vale of Towy, beautiful in all its aspects. In some of these the town is placed before the eye as in a panorama ; in others the seclusion is perfect, and we imagine ourselves many miles from the busy hum of its population. A pedestrian leaving Carmarthen Bridge for the country has a new choice of ways every two or three hundred yards ; and limiting his stroll to the extreme distance of five miles, may "ring the changes" in fifty or sixty different walks, going one way and returning another, without traversing the same road twice in any one of his perambulations. The following are some of the most favourite walks : — THE PARADE Lies to the south of St. Peter's Church and Priory-street, the main approach being at the upper end of Spilman-street. The Parade, ¦which is a fifth of a mile in length, was "made by subscription, under the direction of John Williams, Esq. (high sheriff of Car marthenshire in 1793), when mayor of Carmarthen," 1782-3. Tradition gives credit to Mr. John Morgan, mayor in 1801, for certain improvements in it. Probably they consisted in the erection of railing at the east end, and the planting of trees, including a clump of firs which at one time formed a pretty object in a corner of Morfa Helyg, giving the marshes the appearances of a park when viewed from the Parade, or when seen through the opening between the trees, where the cascade discharges the surplus water THE POND SIDE. 51 of the Furnace Pond. Few towns can boast of so beautiful a promenade ; and no greater or more judicious improvement could have been made to the town at the same expense, than extending this delightful public walk westward to the Castle-hill, making it more accessible from other parts of the town. An extension might at present be easily made by carrying the walk along the bank above the Grammar School to the vacant spot opposite to Oak House, in Priory-street. This would not only add to its length, but would greatly vary a prospect at present of surpassing beauty. From a sanitary point of view, its value cannot be over-estimated, and as an attraction to strangers, public money could not be laid out with a fairer prospect of remuneration. The view of the vale from the end of the Parade is the finest in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. The little village of Abergwili, with its secluded episcopal palace, lies in the plain in the centre ; the taper spire of its church now glistening in the sun, now undistinguishable from the woodland beyond. Merlin's Hill rises to the left, Pen yr Allt Fawr a little farther on, and Llangun- nor Hill to the right on the other side of the river. Grongar, fit resort for "the modest Muses," may be descried half-way up the vale ; and mountains on the borders of Breconshire in the distance, sometimes clearly defined, sometimes scarcely visible through the haze, often snow-covered, the landscape varying with every change of cloud and sunshine. Reaches of the tortuous river streak the marshes when the channel is full ; and sometimes when the Towy and its tributaries are swollen by heavy rains or melted snow, the river overflows its banks, converting the lowlands into an inland sea. A deep red colour in the water marks rain in the valley of the Sawdde, which river, rising in Llanddeusant parish, where it is joined by the Llethaeh, discharges itself into the Towy a little below Llangadock. The farm house of Tygwyn, or White House, is" a conspicuous object from the Parade, and is invested with interest as represent ing the residence of Sir Richard Steele, the coadjutor of Addison, who died, 1729, at his house in King-street, afterwards the Ivy Bush Inn, and as stated before was buried in St. Peter's Church, in the family vault of the Scurloeks. Steele's house faced the south east, looking down the vale. It was pulled down in 1812-15, when the present buildings were erected by Admiral Sir Herbert Sawyer. THE POND SIDE, As it is termed, affords a very pleasant walk. It extends from the tinworks to the Gwili river, a distance of about two miles, and is reached by following the path at the end of the Parade, and turning to the left beyond the tinworks. The stream should then be fol lowed crossing two roads, to its source. This stroll becomes parti cularly romantic after crossing the second road, being for some distance shaded with trees, with the Gwili flowing over its rocky bed nearly parallel with the pond, but at a lower level. The stream 52 THE FIVE FIELDS. may be crossed near its source or by either of the two foot bridges, and the return made over the Conwil road ; or the walk may be continued along the road to Bronwydd Arms Station, where the Carmarthen and Cardigan Railway may be taken to Carmarthen. The railway, which passes between the Gwili and the pond, has only to a trifling extent interfered with the romantic seclusion of the walk. THE FIVE FIELDS Lie between Pieton-terrace and the river, the path through them being the nearest way from the Gas Works to the Royal Oak turn pike gate. They command a pleasant though not extensive view. Between them and the river lie the Brickyard Fields, through which also there is a public pathway, terminating in the Llan- stephan road, at John's-town (named after the late Mr. John Jones, of Ystrad). About half a mile farther on, between that road and the river, is the venerable residence of Rhyd y Gors ; and, on the right side of the road, Ystrad, with its picturesque grounds and wooded hills, which in Mr. Jones's time were open to the public, and thronged on holidays — too often to the abuse of the hberality of their possessor. The pedestrian has a choice of four roads near the turnpike gate ; the Llanstephan road to the left ; the old Llanstephan road, on the same side a little farther on, passing White Mill, and crossing AUtycnap ; the direct, or Pembroke road, a pathway from which at about a mile from the gate leads to the little country church of Llanllwch, which may also be reached by the White Mill road; and that between the Training College and Job's Well, once the residence of General Sir William Nott, for whom it was being rebuilt at the time of his death. The last mentioned road re-enters the town at Water-street. THE BULWARK Is the name given to the raised embankment on the south side of the river, opposite to the Quay. It extends from Carmarthen Bridge to the South Wales Railway Bridge, a distance of about a mile, and is much frequented on summer evenings. It is especially attractive during spring tides, when vessels sailing in and out, boats, and perhaps fifty or a hundred fishermen in their coracles, give life to the scene. Coracles are light boats made of canvas stretched on a framwork of interwoven split rods, and rendered waterproof by being well coated with pitch and tar : according to Camden and earlier writers, they were covered with horse's hide. Two fishermen work together, each in his coracle, with a net stretched out between them, with which they sweep the river, holding the net with one hand, and managing the coracle with no little dexterity with the other. When the fish is felt struggling in the meshes, each hauls up his end of the net till the coracles come together and the fish is secured. OWMOERNANT. 53 C°racles ^ere used in Britain before the Roman invasion, and are alluded to by Caesar, Pliny, Lucan, and other Latin authors. 'Herodotus says that vessels similarly constructed were used by the Armenians in trading on the Euphrates to Babylon." Fisher men carry their coracles to and from the river on their backs. " And, as the porter bears his pack, Each mounts his vessel on his back, When first his usual work's begun, And when his fishing toil is done." Llangunnor Hill. " In his hand the stripling held an oar, And on his back, like a broad shield, The coracle was hung." Hence the old proverb, " Llwyth gwr ei gorwg," — a man's load is his coracle — do not tax one beyond his power — do not overload the willing horse. A coracle race, which usually forms a feature in regattas on the Towy, is by no means devoid of excitement. OWMOERNANT Is a pleasant stroll in dry weather. Leaving the town through Priory-street, the first turning to the left leads to the reservoirs. The way thence lies through a field to the left, towards a few cottages, with a plantation and nursery on the hill side. These se cluded dwellings enjoy a prospect which would enhance the value of many a lordly mansion. Through an opening between the hills, the eye catches an unexpected glimpse of the Towy vale with Nelson's Monument, Dryslwyn Castle, and other objects of interest. Careg Cenen Castle may often be seen, when the sun shines on it and the clouds cast a dark shadow on the mountains behind. The road near the cottages leads to the town ; but after following it about a hundred yards, it will be pleasanter to take the Capel Ifan Fields, to the left, from which one of the many views of the town may be obtained. PENLAN HILL, On the north, is about twenty minutes' walk from the centre of the town. The ascent is abrupt ; but the labour of scaling it is well repaid by the extensive prospect enjoyed from the summit of the hill. It is the highest eminence in the immediate vicinity of the town, of which it gives almost a bird's-eye view. The hill may be crossed. Passing the farm house at the top, and following the road to the gate crossing it, a path to the left in the field leads to the remarkable basin, Cwm Du, formed by the curve of the hill behind. At the foot of this circular slope, a road from Cwm Du farm, passing- Elim Independent Chapel and the Cemetery, leads to the turnpike road entering the town at Water-street. The pedestrian may, by keeping to the right after passing Penlan farm, reach the farm of Penlan Voss, and descending through Cwnin-lane, reach the town through Priory-street. 8 54 THE CEMETERY Is about half a mile from Water-street turnpike gate, and is prettily situate on the north-west side of Penlan HOI. The ground is divided into two portions, one of which was consecrated by Bishop ThirlwaU on the 8th of April, 1856. The other is set apart for the use of Nonconformists. A neat little chapel stands near the middle of each of the sections. The upper part of the ground, which has a westerly aspect, affords a pleasing view differing considerably from those obtained from other elevations. The first person buried in the cemetery was James Brown, clerk at St. Peter's Church, who died March 18, 1856, and was buried on the 21st of that month. MOUNT PLEASANT Stands on the south side of the river, at about the same distance from the town as Penlan, but at a lower elevation, giving a similar view of the south side of the town, with the river and quay in the foreground, and Penlan Hill in the back. Passing the residences of Mount Hill and Mount Pleasant, and taking a steep narrow lane (CUweunydd-lane) to the left, a con siderable elevation is soon gained. The highest point is a mound, called Cnwc y Garn, in a field to the right, commanding a great extent of country, including the Preselly Mountains, in Pembroke shire, and Llanstephan Castle, on the Carmarthenshire coast. Following the lane, and keeping to the left where it parts in two directions, will constitute a very pretty country walk terminating in the turnpike road, once the principal route between Carmarthen and Swansea. The town may thence be reached in half an hour along either of the roads offered at the left hand, the lower being the most direct, the upper being the most pleasant and picturesque ; or the walk may be extended by taking the road to Plas Bonville, or to Nant and the Lead Works, returning along the lower Llandilo road. LLANGUNNOR HILL Is a beautiful eminence on the south side of the river, and about a mile and a half from the town. Crossing the river at the bridge, and taking the left hand, or lower LlandUo road, to the Star pubtte- house, about a mile from the bridge, the pedestrian will find at his left a narrow stony highway leading directly up the hill to the church near its summit. This is the route most easily followed ; but a pleasanter way is through the White House fields, which may be entered at about half a mile from the bridge, either by a gate on the left, in which case the path lies for a short distance along the banks of the river, till a lane to the right is reached ; or by a stile a little further on, along the path passing close by White House, near the spot where formerly stood the rural retreat of the late Sir Richard Steele. ABERGWILI. 55 _ Steele's monument, near the door, is the only object of interest m Llangunnor Church. The following is a copy of its singular inscription : — " This Stone was erected at the Instance of William Williams,* of Ivy Tower, owner of Penddaylwn Vawr, in Llangunnor, part of the Estate there once belonging to the deservedly celebrated Sir Richard Steele, Knight, chief Author of the Essays named, Tatlers, Guardians, and Spectators. And he wrote the Christian Hero, the Englishman, aud the Crisis; The Conscious Lover; and other Fine Plays. He represented several Places in Parliament. He was a Staunch and able Patriot. Finally an Incomparable Writer on Morality and Christianity. Hence the Lines in a Poem called ' The Head of the Rock.' " Behold Langunnor Leering o'er the Vale Pourtrays a Scene, to adorn Romantic Tale, But more than all the Beauties of the Site It's former owner gives the mind Delight, Is there a Heart that can't affection feel For Lands so Rich as once to Boast a Steele Who Warm for freedom, and with Virtue Fraught, His Country dearly lov'd and greatly taught, Whose morals pure the purest Stile Conveys ; T' instruct his Britain to the last of Days ? " The churchyard, with its "solemn yew-trees, ever green," its tombs and headstones, graced with many a holy text and pious rhyme, will detain the visitor for a short time. Its crowning attraction is the exquisite view it affords of the vale, which is varied by walking round the crown of the hill, when AbergwOi, with its pretty little church and episcopal palace, comes into sight, and the junction of the Gwili and Towy. Before returning, the stranger should not be satisfied without enjoying the view of the town from the western brow of the hill. Retracing his steps from the churchyard, he should take the second gate to the right, and follow the path till he gains the summit, and the town comes into sight. The farm house of Dan yr Allt lies beneath him, at the distance of some six hundred feet, with a bend of the river flowing before it. "A step, methinks, may pass the stream, So little distant dangers seem." The Cardigan Railway stretches between it and the tinworks : his ear will perhaps catch the sound of the heavy hammer, or the murmur of the cascade as it hurries down its stony channel in the wood. ABERGWILI. The village of Abergwili, as its name implies, lies near the mouth of the Gwili river, at the distance of about two mOes from the centre of the town of Carmarthen, the upper LlandOo road passing through it. It will be reached by following the road from Priory-street, and avoiding deviations to the left hand side. A pleasanter walk is over the Parade, and along the Pond Side to the * Mr. Williams was the author of Primitive History. . 4to. Chichester, 1789. Bishop Ferrar was an ancestor of his. 56 ABERGWILI. first road that crosses the stream; this road leads directly to Abergwili. . The Bishop of St. David's has a palace at Abergwili. It is con cealed from the view of passers by ; but strangers are sometimes admitted to the grounds. The pretty little parish church deserves a visit, if it were only for the sake of the interesting monument, in its chancel, to the memory of Bishop Richard Davies, who was buried there. On the occasion of erecting the present buUding, which was opened De cember 8th, 1843, the simple stone which had been placed over the grave was unnecessarily broken in pieces by the thoughtless work men ; a coffin was found with the bishop's remains, which soon mouldered to dust; but the bishop's name was legible on the coflin. We are tempted to copy the inscription on the monument, which was erected at the expense of Bishop Thirlwall : — " Er Coffadwriaeth am y Gwir Barchedig Dad yn Nuw, yr Esgob RICHARD DAVIES, D.D. Ganwyd ef yn mhlwyf Gyffin, ger Aber Conwy, yn Ngwynedd. Dygwyd ef i fyny yn New Inn Hall, Rhydychain, Codwyd ef i Esgobaeth Llanelwy, Ionawr 21ain, 1559; ac i'r Esgobaeth Hon (Tr Dewi), Mai 21ain, 1561. Bu farw Tachwedd 7fed, yn y flwyddyn 1581, o ddeutu lxxx Mlwydd o'i Oed: ac a gladdwyd yn yr Eglwys hon. Efe a gyfieithodd Iosua, Barnwyr, Ruth, 1 Samuel, a'r 2 Samuel, yn y Bibl Saesoneg, pan y diwygiwyd yr hen Gyfieithiadau o dan Arolygiad Archesgob Parker, yn y fl. 1568; ac efe hefyd a gyfieithodd 1 Timotheus, yr Hebreaid, lago, 1 Petr, a'r 2 Petr, yn y Testa ment Newydd Ctmreig, a gyhoeddwyd, a chan mwyaf a gyfieithwyd, gan William Salesbury, o'r Plas Isaf, Ger Llanrwst, yn y fl. 1567. Esgob oedd ef o ddysg bur — a Duwiol, Diwyd oedd mewn llafur; Gwelir byth tra'r YSGRTTHUR 01 gwiw o'i ofal a'i gur. Tegid." The inscription may be thus translated : — In memory of the Right Reverend Father in God, Bishop Richard Davies, D.D. He was born in the parish of Gyffin, near Conway, in North Wales. He was educated at New Inn Hall, Oxford. He was raised to the see of St. Asaph, January 21st, 1559, and to this see (St. David's), May 21st, 1561. He died November 7th, in the year 1581, about 80 years of age, and was buried in this church. He translated Joshua, Judges, Ruth, 1 Samuel, and 2 Samuel, in the English Bible, when the old translations were corrected under the supervision of Archbishop Parker, in the year 1568 ; and he also translated 1 Timothy, Hebrews, James, 1 Peter, and 2 Peter, in the Welsh New Testament, which was published, and for the most part translated, by William Salesbury, of Plas Isaf, near Llanrwst, in the year 1567. He was a bishop of pure learning and godly, he was diligent in labour ; the traces of his care and pains will be ever seen while the Scriptures last. The bard Tegid was appointed to deliver a Welsh oration on the occasion of the erection of the monument : he chose the following appropriate text as the basis of his address : — " Then he said, What title is that I see 1 And the men of the city told him, It is the sepulchre of the man of God, which came from Judah, and proclaimed these things that thou hast done against the altar of Beth-el. And he said, Let him alone ; let no man move his bones." 2 Kings xxiii, 17, 18. This interesting discourse was afterwards published under the title of Bedd Owr Bum. Tegid had been Hebrew Professor at Oxford. merlin's hill. 57 Bishop Ottley also was buried at Abergwili, in 1723. The stone which caps the spire of Abergwili Church is invested with peculiar interest as being that on which was fixed the stake at which Bishop Ferrar suffered. In 1020, a battle was fought at Abergwili, between Llewelyn ab Seisyllt, Lord of Essyllt, in Powys, who had. made himself master of South Wales, and Rhun, a Scottish adventurer, who under the pretence of being the son of Meredydd ab Owain had aspired to the sovereignty of South Wales. After an obstinate engagement, Llewelyn proved victorious, and Rhun was overtaken and slain. Christ College, originally founded at AbergwUi by Bishop Gower, was removed to Brecon by Henry VILI. in 1541. Bishop Gower was the founder of the magnificent episcopal palace at St. David's, architecturally unsurpassed by any other in the kingdom, and was a most munificent benefactor to the cathedral and diocese. He held the bishopric from 1328 to 1347. The Bishop's Pond, or Old River as it is sometimes called, marks the course of the Towy at the close of the last century. During hard frost, it is much frequented by skaters. The diversion of the river from its old channel at this place occurred on the occasion of a great flood on the night of Llanybyddair fair, July 17, 1802, during the episcopate of Bishop G. Murray. Previously coals used to be conveyed by boats from Carmarthen to Abergwili Palace, there being then a short canal from the Towy, crossed by a bridge, called Pont Groca. Traces of the canal remain. MERLIN S HILL. " There the wise Merlin whylome wont (they say) To make his wonne,* low underneath the ground, In a deepe delve, farre from the vew of day, That of no living wight he mote be found, Whenso he counseld with his sprights encompast round." Spenser's Faerie Queene, Book iii., Canto 3. " Merlin in lore surpassed who lived below, In mysteries versed none else but angels know : He read the stars, and with prophetic tongue As certain as the past the future sung." W. Williams's Head of the Rook. About a mile beyond Abergwili stands Gallt/yrddin, or Merlin's Hill, according to tradition the abode or resort of Merlin Ambrosius, a sage of preternatural birth, being the reputed son of a "bad angel or incubus spirit," but denounced by Speed as a "mere seducer and phantastical wizard." Spenser, however, views him with greater partiality : — " For Merlin had in magick more insight Than ever him before or after living wight." * Dwelling. 58 LLANGYNDEYRN LIME ROOKS. One of Merlin's Welsh appellations is Anhap y Lleian. After a passing allusion to Ariosto's mention of " Old Merlin, master of the mystic lore," Southey speaks thus of the British sage as the architect of Stone henge : — " Merddin was the Bard of Emrys Wledig, the Ambrosius of Saxon history, by whose command he erected Stonehenge, in memory of the Plot of the Long Knives, when by the treachery of Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern, and the Saxons, three hundred British chiefs Were massacred. He built it on the site of a former Circle. The structure itself affords proof that it cannot have been raised much earlier, inasmuch as it deviates from the original principle of Bardic Circles, where no appearance of art was to be admitted. Those of Avebury, Stanton Drew, Keswick, &c, exemplify this. It is caUed by the Welsh Gwaith Emrys, the Work of Ambrosius." According to one of the Triads, Merlin went to sea with his nine bardic associates in a house of glass, and was never heard of more. The substitution of I for dd in the name of the sage has arisen from the Latin not having the sound represented in Welsh by dd, which is the same as that of th in this, hither, worthy. A steep rocky road to the left, the first after passing AbergwUi Palace, leads to the hill, the ascent to which is through a field on the right and a path in the wood. The view from this eminence is very extensive. To the east the vale is spread out, with Dryslwyn Castle, Nelson's Monument, Grongar Hill, Golden Grove, Careg Cenen Castle, and other objects deserving notice, and in the extreme distance, the mountains of the Brecon range. Following the course of the river downwards, we have a bird's eye view of the Old River, with its swans, Abergwili Palace, church, and vOlage ; Llangunnor Hill follows, then Car marthen with its bridges and shipping, the Railway Bridge, Rhyd y Gors, Ystrad, under the shelter of its pine-clothed hOl, Llan stephan Castle, standing out in bold relief, and the sea, over which it is said the Devonshire coast can be descried on a clear day. To the west the eye traverses a large tract of country, terminating with the Presefly Mountains, y Frenni Fawr standing apart with becoming dignity. Pen yr AM Fawr, east of Merlin's Hill, is of greater elevation ; but the situation is in favour of Merlin's Hill. LLANGYNDEYRN LIME ROCKS. The rocky mountain ridge lying to the south-east of the village of Llangyndeyrn, its quarried flank conspicuous from many elevated spots in the neighbourhood of Carmarthen, is well worthy of a visit. Crwbyn, perhaps the highest point, is about seven miles from Carmarthen, and about one mile and a half from Llangyn deyrn. The high road through the vOlage of Llannon passes close to the top of the mountain, whioh is reached, by a very gradual ascent of about a quarter of a mile, over a carpet of mossy grass KIDWELLY. 59 through which the rugged limestone crops up on each side of the way. The summit gained, a view of great extent presents itself, including, it is said, parts of nine counties. Tenby, Lundy, and Gower may be seen on a clear day, and many low-lying distant places in different directions are unexpectedly discernible. About the middle of August the sun may be seen retiring to " his home in the west " behind the highest point of the Preselly Mountains. Before leaving the summit, the antiquary will not faO to notice at his feet two ancient circles, formed with large stones, on whose mysterious origin and use he may speculate. The ruins of an ecclesiastical building, called Capel Byddgen, stand at the distance of two or three fields on the right hand before reaching the highest point of the road; and not far from it is a remarkable cave of considerable extent, formed by nature in the limestone rock, which is worth visiting. The church in the village, a curious and spacious ancient structure, containing monumental inscriptions to the memory of members of the Mansel, Saunders, and other families, is dedicated to Cyndeyrn (Eng. Kentigern), son of Arthog ab Caredig ab Cunedda, a saint of the sixth century. The nave was built in the fourteenth century ; and the superadded tower and north aOse are not much less than four hundred years old. There are holy-water stoups at the south and west doors, and a piscina in the chancel. One of the square oak pews bears the names of "John and Jane Lloyd, anno 1676." The three bells are severally inscribed, " Thomas Lloyd of Alltycadno, Esq., 1679. Soli Deo gloria. W. C. T. G." "Risse Griffith and Henry Vmphrey, churchwardens, 1679. William & Thomas Coney, bellfounders. F. 0." "Peace and Good Neigh bourhood, E. E. 1721." Like many other sacred bmldings, its architectural character has been degraded by ignorant renovators. A restoration of the church without detriment to its historical features has been undertaken by the vicar, the Rev. David Jones. During excavations connected therewith, 443 skulls were turned up in the porch. KIDWELLY, Which gives its name to the station next to that of the Ferry-side on the South Wales RaOway, is a corporate borough of very ancient date, though of very little importance at the present day. It is governed under a charter granted by James I., July 20, 1619, which quotes a previous charter granted by Henry VI. King John granted a charter to William de Londres of Kidwelly, December 28, 1205 ; and Edward I. signed " at Kydwelly, 9th day of decem- ber, in the 13th yr. of his ragne," a charter which he granted to the town of Cardigan. Kidwelly stands on the banks of the Gwendraeth Fach, the older portion occupying the eastern bank — described by Leland as the original town, and in his time enclosed within a wall with three gates — having fallen into decay. The name of Cydweli refers to the situation of the town a little above the spot where the rivers Gwendraeth Fawr and Gwendraeth Fach 60 KIDWELLY. flow together to the sea. Kidwelly is visited chiefly on account of its noble old castle, situate on the right bank of the Gwendraeth Fach, at an elevation of about one hundred feet above the river, which formed a natural protection to it, the opposite sides being defended by a moat with a drawbridge. All the towers may be ascended, the watch-tower being the highest ; and the chapel to the right on entering is worthy of particular attention. According to Mr. G. T. Clark, whose work, "A Description and History of Kidwelly Castle," published by Mr. Mason, Tenby, should be con sulted before visiting this interesting relic, the castle is supposed to have been founded, about 1090, by a certain Norman knight, William de Londres, who also founded the castle of Ogmore; Glamorganshire ; but all traces of his labour have probably dis appeared, and "the general plan or arrangement of the castle seems from its style to be of one date — probably that of Henry. 111., or early in the reign of Edward I." The castle is now the property of Earl Cawdor, who has been at considerable expense in repairing and strengthening the walls of the venerable ruin. History records a bloody battle to have been fought in the neigh bourhood of Kidwelly in 1135. During the absence of Gruffydd ab Rhys, Prince of South Wales, his wife Gwenllian, like another Boadieea (Buddug*), took the field at the head of her forces against Maurice de Londres, the Norman lord of the territory; but was defeated on Maes Gwenllian. Her son Morgan was slain in action, her son Maelgwn taken prisoner, and herself beheaded by order of the enemy. One of the towers of the castle is called Twr Gwen llian, and is referred to under. that name by Giraldus Cambrensis. Gwenllian, daughter of Gruffydd ab Cynan, was thirteenth in descent from Cadwaladr, f last king of Britain, through Rhodri Mawr, who in right of his father was sovereign of Man, and in right of his mother of North and South Wales. There existed a priory at Kidwelly for Black or Benedictine Monks, founded by Roger, Bishop of Salisbury 1107 — 1139. Henry VHI., in the 35th year of his reign, leased it to " George Aysshe and Robert Myryk, yeomen, purveyors of the wine of the Lord the King." The parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, is situate in the newer part of the town. The steeple, which has a lofty graceful spire, "was unpinnacled by lightening" about two hundred years ago. The dates assigned to the building are — the tower, 13th century; the church, 14th. The manor of East Garston, in the hundred of Lembourne, about ten mOes from Newbury, "was held by the service of finding a knight clad in plate armour to serve for forty days in the king's * Buddug=the victorious one, the goddess of victory, Victoria. f Our gracious Queen, who bears the translated name of Buddug, is, like Gwenllian and England's Elizabeth, descended from Cadwaladr [see note p. 15]. Cymric blood warms her heart as it did theirs. Who can doubt that like them she would take the field at the head of her armies, should her shores be invaded — and her people allow her 1 LLANSTEPHAN AND THE FERRT-SIDE. 61 army at his own cost, whenever the king should be in the territory of Kidwelly, of which this manor was a member." The marshes at Pensarn, in the duchy of Lancaster, which be longed to Kidwelly, were transferred to Carmarthen on the condi tion that the borough of Carmarthen should maintain the road and bridge in proper repair. Mynydd y Gareg, part of the limestone mountain range stretching from Llangyndeyrn, would repay the labour of climbing to its summit. LLANSTEPHAN AND THE FERRY-SIDE Are two watering-places on opposite sides of the Towy, near its entrance into the bay, about sixteen miles from Carmarthen follow ing the course of the river, and about eight miles by land. The Ferry-side is accessible by rail in thirteen minutes' run from Car marthen Station, and from Llanstephan by the ferry-boat which waits the arrival of the trains. The usual mode of reaching these places of recreation previous to the opening of the South Wales RaOway, was by boat from Carmarthen quay. Boats ply in the summer when the tide serves for going and returning the same day. Persons leaving Carmarthen for Kidwelly may return by rail from Ferry-side, which is about an hour's walk distant, and may be reached by the road over the hill or by that round its base. The Ferry-side is more frequented than Llanstephan, and has the advantage of being more exposed to the sea, of possessing a greater extent of sands, and of having a station of the South Wales RaUway in close proximity. In other respects Llanstephan is preferable.The parish church, dedicated to St. Ishmael, an ancient building rich in modern painted windows, stands on a raised position in a corner of the parish, a short distance from the sea at high water. There are traditions that the sea has encroached on the land, submerging houses seaward of the church, the foundations of which are said to have been observed after a storm ; and that William de Londres had a forest there plentifully stocked with deer. The church near the raOway station, after rebuilding, was consecrated by Bishop Basil Jones, July 28, 1876. Llanstephan is a retired vOlage about half a mile from the beach, where some pleasant residences have lately been built, and is worthy of a visit at any season of the year on account of its fine old castle, situate on a hill overlooking the sea. The castle is said to have been built by Uchtred, Prince of Merioneth, about the year 1138, soon after which the Normans and Flemings gained possesion of it; but it was rescued, 1143, by Meredydd, Rhys, and Cadell, sons of Gruffydd ab Rhys, Prince of South Wales, and Meredydd held it successfully against his Norman assailants. In 1215, Llewelyn ab Iorwerth successively besieged, took, and demolished the castles of Carmarthen, Llanstephan, St. Clears, and Laugharne; and in 1257, Llanstephan Castle was again 9 62 LAUGHARNE. destroyed by Llewelyn ab Gruffydd, after his defeat of the English at Dynevor. The path above the cliff, between the castle and the beach, leads to St. Anthony's Well, to the water of which superstition once attached miraculous properties. The niche where the image of the saint was placed still remains above the well. Beyond this is another hill, called Pare yr Arglwydd, commanding a complete view of the bay. The parish church, near the middle of the vOlage, is a cruciform structure with a square tower. It has a fine peal of bells, the gift of the late Mr. Henry Parnall. They were first used January 1, 1876, to ring the new year in. Castell Moel, or Green Castle, on the Llanstephan road, about three miles from Carmarthen, is also said to have been buflt by Prince Uchtred, in the same year as Llanstephan Castle ; and to have been rebuilt by GObert Earl of Clare, 1145. The present ruins, however, are those of a buOding of comparatively modern date. It affords an imposing view of the town of Carmarthen, with the river winding down the vale. Llanybri, a little vOlage about two mOes from Llanstephan, is visited by persons who frequent the latter place during the summer, partly on account of its pretty little church, buOt at the expense of the late Miss Lloyd, of Laques. It stands on high ground, and from it and the road leading to it may be seen a great extent of country, embracing a large section of the bay, with the Worm's Head; Llansaint, over the Ferry-side ; the Llangyndeyrn lime rocks, over Iscoed ; Merlin's HOI and Pen yr Allt Fawr, beyond Carmar then ; the Preselly Mountains, Laugharne town, and Tenby, with St. Margaret's and Caldy Islands. Llanybri was inhabited about two centuries ago by a colony of Flemish weavers. Cwm, or Coombe, in the parish of Llangynog, an elegant mansion built by the late WOliam Morris, Esq., M.P., lies in charming seclusion about a mile to the north of Llanybri. LAUGHARNE, A small corporate town near the estuary of the Taf, which like the Towy discharges itself into Carmarthen Bay, is about four mfles from Llanstephan, and is also readOy accessible from St. Clears Station. It has an interesting church dedicated to St. Martin, and extensive remains of a fine old castle ; and has long been a favourite resort of English families seeking retirement. In the church are monumental inscriptions to the memory of Sir John Powell, of Llanwrda, and his son Sir Thomas PoweU, of Broadway. Sir John PoweH was one of the four judges who sat at the trial of the seven bishops, the others being Chief Justice Sir Robert Wright, AUybone, and Holloway. Wright and AUybone disgraced the bench by their conduct. Powell and HoUoway did their duty with courage and integrity, and summed up in favour of the bishops, for which they were afterwards dismissed from PENDINE. 63 office.* On King WOliam's government being established, Sir John Powell was restored to the bench as Justice of the Common Pleas, a place which he preferred to the more prominent one of Keeper of the Great Seal. Sir Thomas Powell was member of Parliament for Carmarthen shire : he founded the school at Carmarthen that went by his name, now amalgamated with Queen Elizabeth's. On Easter Monday, 1172, Henry II. met Rhys ab Gruffydd at Laugharne, and appointed him Chief Justice of South Wales. Reginald Peacock, D.D., consecrated Bishop of Saint Asaph, June 14, 1445, and translated to Chichester, 1450, was a native of this little town. PENDINE, A watering-place about sixteen miles distant from Carmarthen, deserves greater popularity than is accorded to it. It possesses fine firm sands ten mOes in extent, scarcely surpassed by any in the kingdom ; but the want of domestic accommodations prevents its being frequented by strangers. The road to Pendine diverges from the main Pembroke Road at the Blue Boar, St. Clears, nine miles from Carmarthen. The speculators who recently proposed running a line from the South Wales RaOway to Pendine, and building rows of suitable lodging-houses at convenient distances from the sea, whatever may be said of the commercial prospects of the scheme, suggested an undertaking which would have been in its results as beneficial to the community as the erection of a hospital or the founding of a university. St. Clears takes its name from St. Clara, a pious woman, to whom * " On June 29, 1688, came on the trial of the seven bishops ; and the remarks made by Sir John Powell during its progress sufficiently indicated his opinion of the prosecution, and must have prepared his colleagues for the exposition of the law which he pronounced when his turn came. He declared that he could not see anything of sedition or any other crime fixed upon the reverend fathers, for they had with humility and decency submitted to the king not to insist on their reading his majesty's declaration ; because they conceived that it was against the law of the land, it being founded on the dispensing power, which, he boldly said, if ' once allowed of, there will need no parliament.' The consequence of this honest demonstration, and of Justice Holloway's concurrence in it, was the bishops' acquittal, and the dismissal of both these judges. The communica tion of his discharge was made to him by Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, who ' very kindly ' told him ' that he was very sorry for it, but would not send the patent of revocation till the last day of the term.' Powell accordingly sat out the whole term and was removed on July 7. Sir Thomas Powell [not his son, but of Llechwedd Dyrys, Cardiganshire] being substituted for him on the King's Bench." — Foss's Judges of England. It is stated in Heber's Life of Jeremy Taylor that Sir John Powell was offered the great seal of England if he would decide against the bishops ; and that the court made a similar attempt on his son, which coming to the father's knowledge, he sent for him and told him that if he accepted any place or the promise of any place under the Government, he ' should consider it as intended to bias his judgement, and would disinherit him. " Dywedodd un o'r barnwyr genedigol o Sir Gaerfyrddin y buasai yn well ganddo fyw ar ben domen goes yn Llacham na bod yn euog o gondemndo yr esgobion yn groes i'r gyfraith." 64 CONWIL. the church is. dedicated, who died a martyr in Normandy, Novem ber 4, 894. Its castle, of which little or nothing at present remains, experienced many of the vicissitudes common to simOar fortresses in times happily now gone by. Llanddowror. About two mOes from the Blue Boar lies the little vOlage of Llanddowror, with its parish church, interesting as asso ciated with the name of Griffith Jones, to whose apostolic mind Wales was indebted for several compendiums of religious truth, and for the circulating schools established by the christian Laterality of Madam Bevan of Laugharne. Is a small village about six mOes to the north of Carmarthen. It possesses no peculiar attraction in itself ; but is visited on account of the romantic road leading to it, which for some distance lies along the right bank of the river Gwili, passing through country partaking more of the character of North Wales scenery than any in the immediate neighbourhood of Carmarthen. The public are indebted for this road to the discernment and energy of the late John Lloyd Davies, Esq., M.P. for the Cardigan boroughs. The most picturesque part of the road may be seen by taking the raO way from Carmarthen to ConwO Station, which is about a mfle from the vOlage, and walking back to Bronwydd Station, three miles, where the railway may again be taken ; or the vOlage may be reached by the turnpike road which leaves the town at Priory- street, taking the left when two main roads present themselves. Refreshments may be obtained at the Blue Bell, ConwO. A strange inscription on a stone in the front waU of the vOlage school-house may awaken the visitor's curiosity. The characters used on it are those of the bardic alphabet, called Coelbren y Beirdd. It is here given in Roman letters for the benefit of the curious : — " Goreu cof cof Llyfr. " Nid doeth ni ddarlleno. " Yn 1738, adeiladwyd yr Vsgoldy cyntefig yn y man hwn ar draul Anne Warner, boneddiges o Gaerludd, ac a ail adeiladwyd ar draul Rhys Thomas. Ysgolydd yno, ym mhen can mlynedd, yn 1838."* ConwO is a place of very great antiquity, although the present houses are of recent erection. The parish and those adjoining abounds in Roman remains. Elvet, the name of the hundred, is considered to be identical with the Latin Helvetia. There is a popular tradition that the remarkable embankment, above a mOe in length, running at right angles into the northern * The best memory is the memory of a book. He will not be wise who does not read. In 1738, the first schoolroom on this spot was built at the expense of Anne Warner, a lady from London ; and it was rebuilt at the expense of Rhys Thomas, schoolmaster there, one hundred years after, in 1838. CONWIL. 65 boundary of the parish, and called Clawdd Mawr (great dike), was constructed by the Earl of Richmond; and that a battle was fought there between him and Richard III., who held a position close by, at a place now known by the name of Crug y Teyrn (the king's mound). There seems to be no further ground for the legend than the circumstance of Richmond having passed through the neighbourhood on his road to Bosworth. On this occasion he slept at Wern Newydd, in the parish of Llanarth, Cardiganshire, the house of Einon ab Dafydd Llwyd, one of the Welsh archers who accompanied Henry's army to the field, and an ancestor of the Glansefin famOy, the present representative of which possesses a sOver flagon, presented on the occasion by Henry to Einon. The following has been published as a Uteral copy of an inscription on the walls of the room occupied by Richmond at Wern Newydd : — "Hon ywr stafell lie cuscoedd Henry Iarll Richmond VII., yn y flwythyn 1485, gyda Lnon ap Dafydd Llwyd, Esquire, ar ei daith o Aberdauglethau ir frwydir enwog ar faes Bosworth, yn yr hon y Uaddwyd Richard y III. ; a Henry aeth oddyno i Lundain, ac a gafodd ei goroni yn frenin Lloegr." * Clawdd Mawr lies a Lttle way beyond Cwmduad, a small village to the north of ConwO. There are remains of cromlechau within a short distance on the moorland to the west of the embankment. Antiquaries have pronounced this remarkable earthwork to be not less than two thousand years old. The return journey may be made along the old Cardigan road, entering Carmarthen at Water-street. Francis WeU gate-ticket wOl be avaOable at Water-street Gate. This road, which is rather steep for carriages, passes near Traws Mawr (great cross), where before the suppression of monastic houses by Henry VIII. there was a religious estabHshment, under Strata Florida, which was given by that monarch to Lady Anna Charlotta HamOton, of whom it was purchased by the ancestors of the late Captain Davies. On the lawn in front of the mansion are three ancient stones. One is the flat stone mentioned by Camden, removed thither from the road to prevent its being damaged. It bears this fragmentary inscrip tion : — " Severini filii Severi," and is said to commemorate the death of Severinus in a pitched battle fought in the neighbourhood about the year 72, between the Romans under him and the Welsh. Of the other two, one bears a cross and is perforated with four holes, and the other has a cross and on its obverse the word " cvnegni." The parish church of Llan Newydd, or Newchurch, dedicated to St. Michael, stands on high ground about half a mOe distant from Traws Mawr. The old church was pulled down, and the founda- * This is the room where Henry Earl of Richmond VII. slept, in the year 1485, with Einon ab Dafydd Llwyd, Esq., on his journey from Milford to the famous battle on Bosworth Field, in which Richard III. was slain ; aud Henry went thence to London, and was crowned King of England. 66 PENCADER. tion-stone of the present buOding was laid July 5, 1870. The ground formerly occupied by Carmarthen Castle and its precincts is a detached part of the parish of Newchurch. Gam Fawr, a small but perfect earthwork, is a field or two further than the church from the main road. PENCADER. Near Pencader Station, the second station after ConwO, there is a remarkable mound or barrow which wOl interest the antiquary. The place has also an interest as the scene of a hardly-contested battle, in 1039, between Hywel ab Edwin, sovereign of South Wales, and great-grandson of Hywel Dda, and Gruffydd ab Llew elyn, in which Hywel was defeated, though not totaUy subdued ; for in 1043, aided by Danish adventurers, he again opposed Gruff ydd, and was slain in a battle, attended with great slaughter, fought near the mouth of the river Tivy. In 1163, Henry II. led an army into South Wales against Rhys ab Gruffydd, who, he had been informed, had molested his vassals. They met at Pencader, where hostilities were averted by the inter vention of some Breconshire nobles, Rhys retaining certain districts, including Dynevor and Cantref Mawr, and giving as hostages two of his nephews, Einion ab Anarawd and Cadwgan ab Meredydd. These young men were put to death through the treachery of the Earl of Gloucester, who was entrusted with their custody. Rhys avenged this foul deed by ravaging the earl's possessions in Cardi ganshire, demolishing his fortresses, and devastating the lands of his Norman and Flemish adherents. Henry treated his Welsh prisoners with brutal barbarity, which resulted in the union of Rhys and the sons of Owain Gwynedd, who compefied him for a time to abandon his invasion of Wales. Holinshed, an eulogist of Henry, says that "he did justice on the sonnes of Rice or Rees, and also on the sonnes and daughters of other noble men that were his complices, verie rigorouslie : causing the eies of the yoong striplings to be pecked out of their heads, and their noses to be cut off or slit ; and the eares of the yoong gentle-women to be stuffed." GRONGAR HILL Is a picturesque eminence of moderate height, rising in the middle of the vale of Towy, to the east of Dryslwyn Castle. It is a favourite resort of picnic parties, who proceed to it along the upper Llandilo road, or that on the north side of the river Towy, turning off to the right before reaching LlandOo. The views from the hfll are remarkable for their extent and variety. Grongar HOI inspired the muse of the poet Dyer, whose lines descriptive of its quiet beauties have earned for him a niche in the temple of fame, as a chaste and elegant English writer. Dyer was born (1700) and resided at Aberglasney, to the east of Grongar, a mansion built by Bishop Rudd, who was buried in the neighbouring church of DYNEVOR. 67 Llangathen. The traces of a weU-defined Roman camp now remaining on Grongar HOI seem to show that it was sufficiently spacious to accommodate a Roman legion. Pantglas, buOt 1836, the stately mansion of the late David Jones, Esq., M.P. for the county, lies about three miles to the north of the LlandOo road, the ways leading to it turning off at Pont ar Gothi and Cross Inn. Great taste has been exercised in decorating the house and laying out the grounds. Galltyferin (or Alltyferin, as it is generaUy written), another elegant residence with extensive grounds, occupies a commanding situation on the left tank of the river Cothi, about a mOe and a half above its junction with the Towy. It was buOt by the late Henry James Bath, Esq., high-sheriff for Carmarthenshire in 1869, and is now occupied by Mrs. Bath, who has buOt on the right bank of the Cothi a most beautiful little church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, in memory of her husband. A light bridge with a locked door in the middle communicates between Galltyferin and the church. On a slight elevation to the left of the road leading to Llandilo is Court Henry, supposed to have been so caHed after Henry VII. , who is said to have held his court there when Earl of Richmond ; but more probably it takes its name from Henri ab Gwilym, whose daughter Eva married Sir Rhys ab Thomas, and who is said to have built it. About a mOe to the north-east of Court Henry is Llethr Cadfan (battle-field slope), a declivity the name of which is supposed to indicate the spot where, on June 9th, 1257, occurred one of the most sanguinary engagements recorded in Welsh history — the battle of Cymmerau, or Coed Llangathen. (See pp. 6, 7.) DYNEVOR. The ruins of this time-honoured seat of the Princes of South Wales stand on the brow of a thickly-wooded hOl on the north side of the Towy, within a short distance of LlandOo, which town is 14f mOes from Carmarthen, measured from the corner of Queen- street. The castle is believed to have been erected by Rhodri Mawr, sole monarch of Wales, who bequeathed it to his son Cadell at his death in 877, when his kingdom was divided into three separate sovereignties, and the seat of government of South Wales was removed from Carmarthen to Dynevor, as a place of greater security. One of the three copies of Hywel Dda's "most glorious laws," framed at Ty Gwyn ar Daf (Whitland), was deposited at Dynevor Castle in the tenth century. The castle was rebuOt by Rhys and Meredith ab Gruffydd in 1 150. It was held by different possessors during the protracted contests between the Welsh and their Norman invaders, as well as during the internal struggles of the Cymry. The accounts of the various sieges and defences are of too conflicting a nature to permit of particular reference being made to them here. 68 LLANARTHNEY. The view from the castle is extensive and varied : the Towy, spanned by a magnificent one-arched bridge of native lime-stone, flows underneath ; and on the opposite side of the river are the baronial hall of Golden Grove, Nelson's Monument, Tregib, and Careg Cenen Castle, with the Carmarthenshire Beacons (Banau Sir Gaer) towering behind. And when viewed from an elevated spot on the southern bank of the Towy the venerable ruins of the castle itself, with its ancestral oaks and hanging woods, impress the mind with an idea of grandeur, and naturaOy lead the imagination to the days when contending warriors strove for the possession of a stronghold so fortified by nature and art. The modern residence of Lord Dynevor, formerly called Newton, is a substantial square building, on a plain in the noble park, at a short distance from the remains of the ancient castle. It has been recently enlarged and embeOished. The grounds are very beauti ful and extensive, their undulated surface adorned with fine trees, and afford from different spots exquisite views of the surrounding country. In a secluded part of the park stands the interesting little church of Llandyfeisant, in which parish the castle is situate. It has been discovered that its north-west corner stands on part of a Roman edifice. The church is in the gift of Lord Dynevor. LLANARTHNEY Lies on the lower LlandOo road, about eight mOes from Carmarthen. It possesses a respectable inn, the Golden Grove Arms, where a party wOl always be weU entertained. The church and churchyard, where may be seen an old monumental cross, recently dug out of the waO in building which it had been used, are the only places in the village worthy of a visit; but Dryslwyn Castle and Nelson's Monument are within an easy distance of the inn, and Golden Grove, one of Earl Cawdor's seats, is situate about three mOes beyond the village of Llanarthney. The church of Llanarthney, according to Professor Rees, is dedicated to St. David: another author says "it was dedicated to St. Arthney, of whom little is known." Probably Arthney is a corruption of Arthen, fourth son of Brychan Brycheiniog. There were formerly several chapels of ease under the mother church; Capel Dewi, Capel Erbach, and Capel Llanlluan or Ti1a.-nneia.Ti. Lleian was a daughter of Brychan ; and it is not unlikely that the church and chapel were dedicated to the brother and sister. Llan lluan was a place of note in former days, and was one of the five churches visited monthly by Daniel Rowland, of Llangeitho, and was the resort of hundreds on sacramental occasions. The chalice of Llanarthney Church bears this inscription : — "POCVLVM ECOLESIE DE LLANARTHNE. 1574." Bryslwyn Castle, in Llangathen parish, stands, or rather stood, on the north side of the Towy, on a steep hill rising abruptly from the river, which may be crossed in a ferry-boat stationed at the end of LLANARTHNEY. 69 the road diverging from the main road at Troed y Rhiw Goch turn pike-gate. Only a few small mouldering waUs mark the site of the castle. The view from Dryslwyn ruins is similar to that obtained from Grongar, which is about a mile distant on the north-east; but the elevation of Dryslwyn is less than that of Grongar. The name Byryslwyn, intricate grove, thicket, labyrinth, suggests that the hill was formerly thickly wooded — a suggestion supported by Dyer's description of it: — " Deep are his feet in Towy's flood ; His sides are clothed with waving wood." The castle is said to have been erected by a prince of the house of Dynevor. Nicholas de Molyn, seneschal of Carmarthen, besieged the castle in 1245-6 ; and there is a record that in the reign of Edward I. (Aug. 1, 1287), when Robert de Tibetot was Justiciary of Carmarthen, it was attacked by the Enghsh, under Edmund Earl of Cornwall, when Lord Stafford, William de Montchency, and several others of the besieging army were buried under the ruins of a wall which had been unskilfully undermined. The castle was at that time in the possession of Rhys ab Meredydd, Lord of Ystrad Tywi, Alan Plugenet being Constable of Dryslwyn. Middleton Hall, a noble mansion, is named after the original pro prietor of the estate, David Middleton, son of Richard Middleton, governor of Denbigh Castle under Edward VI., Mary, and Eliza beth, and brother of Sir Hugh, the Welshman to whose enterprise London is indebted for the New River, by which, in 1613, he sup- pHed the city with water brought from a distance of thirty- nine mOes at his own expense — a deed of liberaUty which so reduced his means that he was obliged to practice as a surveyor, in which capacity he succeeded in reclaiming in the Isle of Wight 2000 acres from the sea by embanking. Another brother, Capt. William Mid dleton (Gwilym Ganoldref of the bards), was despatched in 1591 to intercept the Spanish galleons off the Azores, when PhOlip II. sent a fleet of ten times the English force to defeat the design. Having sighted the enemy, he kept him company until he had learned his strength, when he rejoined the fleet under Admiral Howard. His vigilance saved the English squadron, which avoided an unequal contest. Capt. Middleton, Capt. Koet, and Capt. T. Price, of Plas Iolyn, were the first that smoked tobacco publicly in London. Capt. Middleton was an accomplished Welsh scholar and poet : among other works he composed a version of the Psalms in Welsh restricted metre. He completed the work in 1595, at Scutum, West Indies. Middleton HaU estate was bought by Sir WOLam Paxton, and after his death was disposed of to Edward Hamlyn Adams, Esq., M.P. for Carmarthenshire, 1832, whose eldest son assumed the name of Abadam, whose descendants stOl possess it. Nelson's Monument, or Paxton's Tower, stands on a high hill on Middleton HaU estate, on the south side of the turnpike road, a short distance beyond the village of Llanarthney. It is composed of three towers, on a triangular base and connected by walls with 10 70 LLANARTHNEY. embattled parapets, which thus form chambers, and above which the towers rise several feet. It commands a view of great extent : from its summit the surrounding hills seem to be levelled, and the spectator almost imagines he is looking down on a vast plain. Seven counties, it is said, may be seen from the tower on a clear day; namely, Carmarthen, Pembroke, Cardigan, Radnor, Brecon, Glamorgan, and Devon. It was buOt in memory of Nelson, and bears an inscription in Latin, Welsh, and EngHsh. The following is a copy of the English version : — " To the invincible Commander, Viscount Nelson, in commemoration of deedB before .the walls of Copenhagen, and on the shores of Spain ; of the empire every where maintained by him over the Seas ; of the death which in the fulness of his own glory, though ultimately for his own country and for Europe, conquer ing he died; this Tower was erected by William Paxton." Sir William Paxton was mayor of Carmarthen in 1802 ; and the same year he unsuccessfully contested the representation of the county with Mr. James Williams, of Edwinsford. In his mayoralty, Carmarthen was supplied with water, conveyed through the streets in iron pipes. The wooden piping turned up in excavations about twenty-five years ago was of earlier date. Tenby is also indebted to the public spirit of Sir William Paxton for its baths, which were twice erected at his expense, those first completed having been destroyed by fire. Golden Grove (the translation of its old Welsh name, Gelli Aur), the Carmarthenshire residence of the Cawdor family, is an Eliza bethan structure, situate on a bank to the right of the road leading to Llandilo. It was rebuOt a few years ago from designs by Sir Jeffrey WyatvOle. It has been associated with Engbsh Lterature by the circumstance of the learned and pious Jeremy Taylor having found a refuge there, when his living was sequestrated during the period of the success of the parUament against Charles I., to whom he was chaplain. Several of his works were written there : one of them is entitled The Golden Grove; and others, especially his Eniautos, a course of sermons for all the Sundays in the year, were meditated during his seclusion. The seat was at that time in the possession of Richard Vaughan, Earl of Carbery, a nobleman remarkable for his attachment to the Royal cause ; and as Taylor's second wife, Joanna Bridges, possessed some landed property at Mandinam, in the adjacent parish of Llangadock, a friendship commenced between the earl and the chaplain, which led not un- naturaUy to Golden Grove affording the latter a retreat in his adversity. Taylor kept a school at Llanfihangel Aberbythich ; the school-room still remains in the vOlage. The journey home from Llanarthney may be varied by crossing the country by Middleton Hall, to Porthyrhyd, a small village on the old Swansea road, eight miles from Carmarthen ; or by crossing the river at LlandOo-rhwnws Bridge, and taking the upper Llandilo road, on its north side : the Carmarthen Bridge gate-ticket clears the two gates on the way. The first bridge at LlandOo-rhwnws OAREG OENEN CASTLE. 71 was built in 1779, and fell in 1781. The present bridge was con structed about three years afterwards, by William Edwards, the self-taught mason and bridge-builder of Glamorganshire, or by his son David. This William Edwards, born at Eglwysilan in 1719, of humble origin, was a genius of no mean order. In 1746, he was employed to build a bridge of three arches over the Taff, near the junction of the Rhondda with that river, which he completed satisfactorily ; but before three years had passed it was swept away by a flood. He promptly set to work at constructing another to consist of one arch ; but was again doomed to disappointment ; for before building the parapets the key-stone was forced upwards by the weight of the haunches, and the whole structure feU. His courage, however, rose with the occasion, and he at once set to work with a new plan, the prominent feature in which was leaving cylindrical apertures in the haunches, and thereby reducing their weight. This bridge, known as Pontypridd (a contraction of pont y ty pridd), was completed in 1755, and stands at this day. It has a span of 140 feet, or 42 feet more than that of the Rialto at Venice, till then considered the widest span in the world. Edwards and his son buOt several bridges in South Wales. According to SmOes he built bridges at the following places : — At Usk, over the Usk ; near Swansea, over the Tawy, three arches ; near Morriston, over the Tawy, one arch, 95 feet span ; at Pont ar Dawy, over the Tawy, one arch, 80 feet span ; at Llandovery, 84 feet span ; at Bettws, at Aberavon, and at Glasbury, near Hay (afterwards carried away by flood). D. Edwards, says SmOes, "constructed the fine five-arched bridge over the Usk at Newport, as well as the bridges at LlandOo [not the present bridge], Edwinsford, Pont- loerig, Bedwas, and other places." CAREG CENEN CASTLE, One of the most remarkable relics of ancient times in the county, stands in a wild and romantic spot in the parish of Llangadock, about three mOes east of Llandilo, and about eighteen miles from Carmarthen. The usual mode of proceeding to it is by the lower Llandilo turnpike-road, passing Llangunnor Hill (on the left hand), Cystanog lead mines (on the right), Abergwili vOlage, Merlin's HiU and Pen yr Allt Fawr (at a distance on the left), through the viOage of Llanarthney, with its neat church and churchyard, passing Drys lwyn Castle (left), Nelson's Monument, Golden Grove (right), Grongar HiU, and Dynevor Castle (left), and turning off to the right at Ffairfach Gate, before reaching the town of Llandilo, which stands on a hiU on the left. The highway from Ffairfach is rugged and steep : a carriage may, however, be driven to the farm house near the castle, where visitors may spread the stores they bring with them, and obtain an attendant to guide them over the ruins, and candles, which must not be forgotten. The castle is within easy walking distance from Derwydd Station on the line between Llanelly and Llandilo. 72 CAREG 0ENEN CASTLE. The castle, which bursts upon the sight some time before reaching the farm house, fuUy realizes the expectations of most visitors. It stands in solitary subUmity on a precipitous rock, accessible on one side only, of some two or three hundred feet perpendicular height, and overhanging a pretty vaUey, through which flows the Uttle river Cenen. The spectator, from its weather-beaten waUs, may perhaps look down at a hawk hovering at its accustomed height, on the watch for its prey in the vaUey beneath. Behind him are the Black Mountains, bleak and dreary, and in front his eye, sweeping over a vast and varied extent of country, may catch a glimpse of the sea at the mouth of the Loughor, or recognize between the intervening hiUs some famiUar spot in the neighbourhood of Car marthen, with perhaps the smoke of the tinworks mingHng with the clouds. On the first occasion of the writer's visiting it, one of the company was seen to wipe a tear from his eye, which forced its way out he knew not wherefore, his feeUngs being overwhelmed by the grandeur of the scene before him. From a simOar atmosphere Daniel Ddu drew inspiration when he poured forth his mowing lines on " Cestyll Cymru," and from such a spot Gray's Bard hurled his denunciations on the head of the "ruthless king." Some of the sublimest passages of Holy Writ have reference to events that occurred on the tops of mountains. Besides its bold aspect, and the romantic soUtude of its situation, this venerable ruin is remarkable for a long narrow passage com mencing in a gallery lighted by openings at the sides, and extending for a great distance through the soUd rock, and having near its extremity a very smaU weU ; at' its termination, however, is a hol low, partly filled up, where possibly there was a spring sufficient to supply the tenants of the castle when besieged. The castle is said to be an ancient British structure, and, accord ing to a manuscript in the British Museum, it was buOt by Urien Lord of Is Cenen, one of the Knights of Arthur's Round Table : other testimony refers it to the date of Henry I. It is recorded to have been demoHshed on the 16th of March, 1282, by Dafydd ab Gruffydd, brother of Prince Llewelyn, and others, and to have been captured by Rhys ab Meredydd in 1287. Coins of the reign of Domitian have been found on the spot, and stone and other primeval implements, confirming the opinion that whatever may be the date of the present remains, the position was fortified originally at a period anterior to the Norman conquest. About fifty years ago, a young lady who visited the castle with a picnic party turned up two copper coins, apparently Roman, as she moved the earth with her parasol while sitting on the ruins, musing. Let not the curious reader inquire what res solicita occupied her thoughts. She and the gentleman who sat beside her have passed away ; but their children are weU-known and respected in Carmarthenshire. "By the gift of Henry VII., it came to Sir Rhys ab Thomas, Knight of the Garter, whose grandson Rhys ab Gruffydd having forfeited it, it was granted to Richard Vaughan, Earl of Carbery, Lord President of Wales." It is now the property of Earl Cawdor, PRESELLY TOP. 73 who deserves the gratitude of the antiquary for having recently repaired this once impregnable fortress. Leaving the castle, a visit should be paid to Llygad y Llychwyr, the source of the Loughor river, which flows in a large stream from the solid rock. It is about a mOe and a half distant from the castle, and on the other side of the Cenen. At Cefn Cethin, a residence on the road-side between Ffairfach and Careg Cenen, an old stone is preserved, with a bow and arrow carved on it : it is supposed to commemorate a battle fought there. In returning to Carmarthen, the route may be varied without much increasing the length of the journey, by proceeding to Llan dilo from Ffairfach, and foUowing the upper Llandilo road. Tickets received in the morning at Carmarthen Bridge and Ffairfach Gates should not be lost, as they wiU be avaOable in thus returning ; the latter at Walk Gate, the first gate passed after leaving Llandilo ; the former at Francis WeU Gate, the last on the road home. The fine one-arched bridge over the Towy at Llandilo deserves notice. It was built in 1848 by M. Morgan, from a design by W. WOUams. PRESELLY TOP, The summit of Moel Cwm Gerwin (bare mountain' of the bleak hoUow), the highest point in the Pembrokeshire mountains, if not the highest west of the Beacons, may be visited from Carmarthen in a few hours, by taking the South Wales RaOway as far as Clyn- derwen Station, and proceeding thence on the Maenclochog Une to Rose Bush Station, which is about three quarters of a mile from the summit of the mountain. The view from this elevated spot is said to extend to ten counties — from Anglesea on the north to Devon on the south ; whOe the Wicklow Mountains appear on the horizon over St. George's Channel on the west. PreseUy Top may also be reached from Crymmych Station on the Whitland and Cardigan RaOway, which lies between it and Frenni* Fawr. Frenni is more accessible from Crymmych, being about two mOes from the station, and is almost equaUy worthy of being ascended. COMMUNICATION WITH OTHER TOWNS. Carmarthen is brought into connection with towns in Pembroke shire, Glamorganshire, and more distant places by means of the South Wales Railway, now part of the Great Western system ; with those in Cardiganshire by means of the Carmarthen and Cardigan line, at present terminating at Llandyssul, over which trains pass as far as Pencader for Aberystwyth and North Wales ; and with those in Brecon and Radnor by means of the LlandOo and LlaneUy RaOway, over which the London and North Western * With Frenni confer bri (Irish), bre, M.oel-fre, bryn (Cornish and Welsh), » hill, .Brandon, "banks and braes;" fry (Welsh), on high. 74 THE "OLDEST INHABITANT." Company's trains pass to London and the north ; and it has regular communication with other towns not yet enjoying the ad vantages of that mode of transit. Coaches or other vehicles run daOy from Llandyssul to Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan, and from other stations to towns not yet directly accessible by raO; and carriers leave once a week or oftener for many of the towns and vfllages within a day's journey. A steamer phes between Carmar then and Bristol. The different roads and railways converging at Carmarthen afford facOities for making circular tours, either simply rural or passing through the neighbouring towns and viUages. Thus — A journey may be taken through St. Clears, Laugharne, Llan stephan, and Ferry-side ; through Ferry-side, KidweUy (by raO or road), Pembrey, LlaneUy, and LlandUo ; through Pencader, Lampeter, Llangadoek, and Llandilo. Three days may be very pleasantly spent in making a circuit through the secluded GwiU vaUey by raO to Llandyssul; thence through the beautiful Vale of Tivy, to Newcastle Emlyn by coach ; posting thence by way of Newport to Fishguard, through very picturesque and varied, scenery, some of the high grounds com manding views of very distant tracts. St. David's, with its historic cathedral and rocky coast, may be included advantageously in the journey, returning from Fishguard by Maenclochog, or from St. David's through Haverfordwest. In this tour, the church and cross at Nevern should be visited, and the adjacent cromlech, and espe ciaUy the very remarkable cromlech of Pentre Ifan, on a dreary moor, about two mOes out of the direct road ; and a third of these mysterious reUcs should be inspected which stands within a short quarter of a mile south-east of the little town of Newport. The superincumbent stone of Pentre Ifan cromlech measures four yards in length, by three yards in width, and is about one yard in thick ness. It is supported at about seven feet from the ground, affording sufficient space for three horses to stand under it side by side. THE "OLDEST INHABITANT" Is a personage whose memory is often found defective. Scarcely a week passes which does not bring a pecuUarity in the weather, a degree of heat or cold in the temperature, an extraordinary production in the vegetable world, or a freak of nature in the animal world, the Uke of which he is charged with not remembering. Yet, though his reminiscences are seldom deemed worthy of being committed to print, they are sufficiently curious, when confined to a circumscribed neighbourhood Hke Carmarthen, to excuse our recording some of them. A few registered in the first edition of this book have been retained, though sad to say, they have passed from the memory of the " Oldest Inhabitant" of the present day. He remembers, then, the building or rebuOding of one half of the houses of the town, and the reconstruction of almost aU of its shops. THE "OLDEST INHABITANT." IO He remembers the erection of every house from Morfa-lane to Picton's Monument — or Pen Llwyn y Witch as he caUs the spot where the monument stands ; of the workhouse and every house now seen on the breast of the hiU on which it is built, with Waterloo-terrace and the great majority of the houses from that spot to the EngLsh Wesleyan chapel and Woods's-row. He remembers the building of every place of worship at present standing in the town, with the soUtary exception of St. Peter's Church ; and that has undergone many a change in his day. He remembers the erection of every other pubUc buOding in the town, save one: his memory is at fault about the HaU; but "he knew the old man who died not long ago at Croes y CeOiog, aged ninety-three, who worked at making mortar for it," and is quite clear about the construction of the semicircular flights of steps that helped us to get in at its middle window, which said steps were removed about eighteen years ago. The town is indebted for the HaU to John Adams, Esq., of PeterweU, Lampeter, Member of ParUament for Carmarthen, 1774— "the best application of corruption money" the "Oldest Inhabitant" has heard of. It cost the M.P. £4000. He remembers the meat-market in Clos Mawr, behind the houses to the north of the HaU ; and shambles in different parts of the Square : hence the name Lower Market-street (now called HaU- street), GuOdhaU-square, like Nott-square, being a modern desig nation. He remembers the "Wild Ocean," then studded with clumps of wOlows, now covered with buildings, the Welsh Wesleyan Chapel being one of them ; and ' ' a snipe shot in the swamps near the present entrance to Red-street from GuOdhaU-square." He remembers the town almost divided in two by the mOl-stream which was uncovered from St. Catherine's MiU to the Old Market place, now the Merlin Brewery ; and from the. Dark Gate to the river. He has groped with other boys through the arched channel from the old Market-place to the corner of Blue-street where the Cock MiU stood. He remembers " a Uttle girl being drowned one Sunday evening in the mill pond near the upper end of Dam-street. The houses then ran across the top of Blue-street, making Dark- gate so narrow that he saw a pentice knocked down by a caravan passing through." He remembers the tide flowing up the channel of the mOl-stream in Blue-street, and " coal barges discharging near the present Half Moon hotel, at which spot stood a mOl." There was not one house in Blue-street at that time. He remembers the Island House when it was worthy of the name, being visibly surrounded with water at fuU tide. He remembers when "the Quay extended only from the bottom of Quay-street to the projecting house near the JoUy Tar, caUed the Summer House; when, nevertheless, the shipping trade was m a rather more flourishing condition than now: he saw thirteen American brigs in the river near the quay at the same time." 76 THE "OLDEST INHABITANT." He remembers when "vessels were buOt at Bedford Yard (so caUed after a Mr. Bedford, a shipbuilder who came to this town from Pembrokeshire), to the east of the Long Storehouse." He remembers "being on board a launch there, when a ship of three hundred tons heeled over, and after springing a waU on the bridge side, recovered her balance, and ghded safely into the water. The vessel belonged to one Davies, of Bryncoch." He remembers the removal of the gates at each end of King- street, and the Dark Gate, and poor debtors letting their bags down by a cord, from that between King-street and Nott-square, soliciting aid in their accustomed phrase, "Remember the poor debtors ; " and he does remember them. There was a kind of station-house over this gate with thirteen steps leading up to it ; hence unruly children were threatened to be " sent up the thirteen steps." He remembers the macadamized roadways superseding the rough paving or pitching of our forefathers, remains of which are to be seen at the upper end of Bridge-street and the entrance to the castle, the lanes leading from Little Bridge-street to the quay, and Pentre CuryU in MOl-dam-street. They have disappered from Chequer-aUey since the issue of our first edition. He remembers how, before the introduction of gas, the inhabitants went to church and chapel Uke glow-worms, each with his lantern. He remembers the commotion which prevaOed when the French landed at Fishguard, and how the motley-armed inhabitants hurried down to resist them. "His horse-pistol was taken from him by his father, who thought the weapon might be put in more efficient hands." AU the circumstances rise vividly in his memory, whenever he sees one of the large rimmed pennies of 1797, coined, he says, to commemorate the faOure of the Fishguard invasion. The French commander, General Tate, brought to Carmarthen, washed his hands at the Ivy Bush pump for want of better accommodation, and was not aUowed even a jack towel to wipe them ; such was the patriotism of those days. He remembers the French prisoners in our gaol, and the curiosity of the public to see what sort of creatures they were ; and the ingenious trifles in making which they employed their tedious hours. He remembers the government express of that time, how a horseman came in at full gaUop, and again gaUoped off on a fresh horse waiting for him at the bridge, which was a good deal narrower than it now is, with recesses over the buttresses for persons on foot to retreat into. He remembers the " PoUy " tender coming up our river, and the terror its press-gang spread amongst the able bodied young men fit for naval service. He remembers a Welsh bard put in the piUory four times for " doing something against the government." He remembers the stocks at the old Market-cross a terror to the disorderly ; and a single constable, WO y Lon (corruptly but not THE "OLDEST INHABITANT." 77 inappropriately, WOl Alone), entrusted with the maintenance of the peace of the town. He remembers when an old man was sentenced to be hanged for stealing a mare, that no one could be got to be executioner ; and a convict sentenced to fourteen years' transportation volunteered to hang him, if his term of punishment should be reduced to seven years. The poor fellow was hanged at Pensarn, and a wretch went to the place the night after the execution, stole the gallows, and made a bedstead of it. He remembers Lord Nelson visiting Carmarthen, and staying at the Bush in King-street, when General Nott's father kept it. Nelson attended the theatre in company with Lady HamOton ; * and EUas the tailor was brought to sing "God save the King" and "Rule, Britannia" before them. He witnessed their departure from the Three Tuns, in Bridge-street. Castle-hill-road had not then been made. He remembers when the mayor and corporate officers proceeded in ofiieial pomp down the Towy, with the " silver oar," on Admiral- court Day, to assert their jurisdiction over the river : their authority then extended to Carmarthen Bar. And when, on Charter Day, during a supposed cessation of the law, from sun-rise to mid-day, burgesses were soundly beaten by the boys of the town, before they excercised their municipal right of electing the mayor. He remembers a similar custom of beating with rods of hoUy persons found in the streets before noon on the 26th of December. He remembers the old oak in Priory-street in fuU foliage before the dose of poison was introduced through an auger-hole into its centre. He remembers timber bought in woods many miles up the river brought down the Towy to Carmarthen. A little ship was built near Abermarlais and brought to the river by Twm o'r Nant. He remembers the destructive fires at the tinworks, the paper-mill, the post-office in St. Mary-street, Trebersed, and the thatched houses in Church- street, which happily have scarcely been equalled for the last eighty years. He remembers when salmon was sold from 2£d. to Id., and butter at 6d., 5d., 4d., and even 3d. a pound; while salt was sold at 7d. when no artificial scarcity, occasioned by delay in the arrival of a consignment, raised it above its usual price. He remembers when, on Wednesdays, the town was enlivened by the baiting of a bull or two, previous to the slaughtering of the animals for the Saturday's market, that being the orthodox method of making the meat tender. There were in different parts of the town, in front of the Hall especiaUy, rings fastened to the ground, through which the rope attached to the animal was passed; the * Lady Hamilton was a native of Hawarden, Flintshire, the daughter of poor but industrious parents. When a girl she was a servant of Dr. Thomas of that village. In " Memoirs. of Lady Hamilton" (1815), it is stated that she enacted the Goddess of Beauty to the celebrated Dr. Graliarn, and served as a model to Romnev. 11 78 THE " OLDEST INHABITANT." shops and windows were thronged with spectators ; and the town was celebrated for its buU-dogs. He remembers the cheese riots, when the exportation of that article of food was prevented by the mob, which assembled at the preconcerted signal of ringing the Cross beU ; and cavalry being caUed out to protect merchants in shipping the cheese they had undertaken to deliver. He remembers not merely the large wedding processions, often consisting of five or six hundred persons, with the now nearly extinct bidding, but those processions headed by an inevitable wooden-legged flutist, and a club-footed fiddler, who by his abOity to play seven tunes acquired a right to the title "Ffidler saithtiwn." He remembers when party spirit ran so high that two packs of hounds were kept by the town : those of the Red-coat hunt and the Blue-coat hunt. The kennel of the former stood where the tanyard by the Market-place is. Old Shon Dwr lived close by : his function it was to whip out of town at his cart's taO sturdy vagrants who infested the country ; but having exercised his delegated powers on an old sailor who had fought under Nelson, he got into trouble, and whipping sturdy vagrants ceased in the borough. He remembers many an election riot — the attack on the Star and Garter, in Spilman-street, during the Reform agitation, when the landlord stoutly but in vain defended his "castle" with a horse- pistol which he discharged repeatedly at the mob ; the arrival of a company of Highlanders to support the law ; the swearing in of two hundred LlaneUy colliers as special constables, to aid the six metropolitan police officers, A Division, and the conflicts between them and the mob armed with treenails ; and, a few years earher, the demolishing of the successful candidate's chair by the hatters ; and, long before that, Magins Dorien Magins's election, when pistols were discharged at voters in the street, and pockets of hops placed in front windows to protect the inmates from shots. He must however confess that the facts referred to in the foUowing " Draft Petition " to the Lords of the Treasury, endorsed with the name of "Jos. Sharpe," from an old friend's papers, referring it is supposed to the period of the contest for the representation of the borough between John Philipps, Esq., of Cilgetty, and Grismond PhOipps, Esq., of Cwmgwili, exceed everything of the kind within his recol lection : — "TO THE RIGHT HONBLE. THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF HIS MAJESTY'S TREASURY. " The humble petition of the Inhabitants, Merchants, and Trades men of the Borough of Carmarthen, in Wales, whose hands are hereunto subscribed, " Sheweth, " That in the Months of July, November, and December last, great riots and disburbances, and the most violent outrages have been committed in the said Borough of Carmarthen, by a number of persons unlawfully assembled in a tumultuous manner, armed with guns, swords, and other offensive weapons, threatening, assaulting, beating, knocking down, wounding, maiming, shooting THE "oldest inhabitant." 79 at, and kiUing several of His Majesty's subjects, in open defiance of the laws of ?< .rw' -aild to the &reat terror of the Inhabitants of the said Borough. , iJ?ait m particular on the 19th day of the said month of July last, diverse of the said persons, armed with cutlasses and other weapons, fell upon and assaulted Jenkin David, in the said Borough, and with a drawn cutlass one David Lewis wounded and cut off one of the fingers of the right hand of the said Jenkin David, and almost cut off another of his fingers, thereby maiming and disabling " That on the 14th of the said month of November last, a great number of the said persons having again unlawfully assembled in the said Borough, armed with guns, hangers, pitchforks, spits, pokers, and clubs, and other offensive weapons, assaulted, knocked down, shot at, and wounded diverse of His Majesty's subjects, who to preserve themselves from such outrages, having retired into and taken shelter in the Town Hall in the said Borough, were pursued thither by the said armed multitude, who violently attacked and forced the said Hall, and one Essex Jones fired a gun in at a window thereof, and thereby wounded Jacob Morgan with several shot in his side and back. " That in the night of the next day, being the 15th day of the said month of November, a great number of the said riotous and disorderly persons again assembled themselves, armed with guns and other offensive weapons, and made an attack upon the public Gaol in the said town, and endeavoured with an iron bar to break the fastenings and force open the door thereof, and fired many guns thereat, and several balls, which entered the windows of the houses near adjoin ing, to the great danger of the lives of the inhabitants; and the said armed multitude soon after brought into the said town several pieces of cannon, threatening and declaring their intent to batter down the said prison. " That in the month of December following, and now last past, the said riotous persons assembled again to the number of between one and two hundred, and then and at diverse other times in that month committed the greatest riots and outrages in the said Borough, firing guns loaded with ball and shot in the open streets thereof, and from the stables of the Red Lyon Tnn, the chief place of their rendezvous, at diverse houses, and persons in the said town, whereby many were wounded and several killed, and particularly Henry Morris, (qy. ?) James Newland was shot and wounded in his legs and back ; David Rees was shot and wounded in the leg, Anne Evans was shot and wounded in the arm, and Joseph Thomas was shot through the head with a musket ball and killed, and. John Lewis was also shot and killed,* in defiance of the civil power and of all law and justice, and to the utmost terror of the Inhabitants, as appears upon the oaths of several persons taken before the Mayor and Coroner of the said Borough, ready to be produced. "Your petitioners therefore humbly implore the aid and assistance of the Crown in bringing the said offenders to justice, and pray your Lordships would be pleased to give directions for that purpose, and that they may be prosecuted at the expense of the Crown, and meet with the punishment such unparalleled violences deserve. "And your petitioners shall ever pray, &c." The barrister to whom this draft was presented carefully appended, with the shrewdness characteristic of his profession, the foUowing instruction in the margin where the asterisk is inserted : — " If Thomas Rees is dead, maimed, or has lost his eye, you may after the word ' killed,' and before the words ' in defiance, &c.,' begin a paragraph and mention that fact, and conclude with the words, ' in defiance, Sec.,' as it concludes now." 80 THE BIDDING Is an old Welsh custom designed to give young marrying folk a start in life, on the understanding that the sums contributed are to be repaid, if required, on the marriage of the donor or any of his relatives. The custom, once very prevalent, is now dying out. The established form of a Bidding Letter is given, the names being fictitious : — Carmarthenshire, July 4th, 1882. Ill As we intend to enter the Matrimonial State, as on Thursday, the 25th of July, we purpose to Hf make a Bidding on the occasion, the same day, HI at the Young Man's Father's house, caUed HI Ty'r Bwci, in the Parish of Llanfair ar y Bryn, as when and where the favour of your good and gg agreeable company is respectfully soUcited ; l|I and whatever donation you may be pleased to |!| confer on us then wiU be thankfuUy received, ap warmly acknowledged, and cheerfuUy repaid as whenever caUed for on a similar occasion, as ae By your most obedient Servants, p OWEN GWYN, H ELEN MORGAN. Ill The Young Man, his Father and Mother (Llewelyn gg and Margaret Gwyn), his Brothers (Evan and Rhys), gg and his Aunt (Gwladys Bowen, Llwyn y Fedwen), o|S desire that all gifts of the above nature due to them be as returned to the Young Man on the above day, and will g|| be thankful for all additional favours granted. as The Young Woman, her Father (Rhydderch Morgan, JUg Castell y Moch, Llannon), and her Brothers and Sister gg (Howel, Gruffydd, and Gwenllian), desire that all gifts gg o;£ tne above nature due to them be returned to the pS Young Woman on the above day, and will be thankful gel for all additional favours conferred on her. |p The Young Man's Company will meet at Ffynnon gig Loew; and the Young Woman's at Pant y Clacwydd. CARMARTHEN : WILLIAM SPURRELL. 1811111 9' :¦¦/¦ -ow -.-=-• 1.%-. % ^r •