THE FINEST PHOTOGRAPHS

OF

U(~1 « MT AM/1 l«llll«l«U

with t

n

airto

CIRE

The aa
Guic

>(c

"I give theft £,.-'' Wi9ii
far the founding ef a College IK ihft Colon f;

From the
COLLECTION OF OXFORD BOOKS
made by
FALCONER MADAN
Bodley's Librarian

--'.^—^z^ttzz:

lows.

wc

CH,

this in

.(*.S.

T^MlD SOlalD BV
THOMAS POWELL,
High Street, FAIRFORD.

Stomas Towell,
FT^IRFOl^D,
Chemist & Druggist,
M.P.S.
PbysiGians' Prescription and Family Receipts
CAREFULLY PREPARED WITH GENUINE DRUGS.
?aUti\ ]IUdlt'uias % ?wprte\«^ jftoticUs.
AERATED WATERS,
PHOTOGRAPHIC CHEMICALS,
CATTLE MEDICINES,
LICENSED TO SELL METHYLATED SPIRIT.
SPORTING AMMUNITION.
Smokeless and Black Powder Cartridges.
Breech- Loading Shot Guns.
Rook and Rabbit Rifles, Gun Cases.
Loading and Gleaning Implements.
Silver Mounted Walking Sticks, Tennis Balls & Rackets.
Artificial Trout Flies, Rods, & Thames Fishing Tackle.
Animals and Birds Stuffed and Mounted.
ALL KINDS OF HIGH CLASS TOBACCOS.
LOEWE & CO.'S BRIAR PIPES.

Cheapest JCouse * Stationery.
THOMAS POWELL,
Stationer & Newsagent.

CIRCULATING LIBRARY and
ADVERTISING OFFICE for all PAPERS.
Ledgers, Manuscripts, Cash and Day Books, in all leading sizes.
Swap, ?ost dasds and ?hoto$ieapWc jUbums a\ii
?lav'vn4 fcasis.
ILLUSTRATED & BOUND BOOKS SUITABLE
FOR PRESENTS.
Tourists' Cases, Despatch Boxes, Jewel Cases, Writing
Desks, Envelope Boxes, and Blotters.
Bibles, Prayers, Church Services, and Hymns Ancient
and Modern, elegantly bound in Morocco and Calf.
Monthly Periodicals & Books supplied on the shortest notice
Printing & Bookbinding. Prices on Application.
Publisher of the old Clerk's Description of Church,
price Sixpence.
HIGH STREET, FAIRFORD,

FAIRFORD CHURCH,
WITH ITS CELEBRATED WINDOWS;
LECHLADE,
AND THE DISTRICT AROUND THEM.

BY
HENRY W. TAUNT, f.r.g.s., &c, Oxford,
Author of the well-known Guides to the Thames, &-c.

THIRD EDITION (Enlarged).

Jfairforo :
THOMAS POWELL, Stationer, &c.
All rights reserved.

CONTENTS.

PAGE.
Introduction, Fairford and its History  i
Fairford Fishing  2
Fairford Church  3
Plan of Church Windows  9
Description and Details of the Windows  10
Monuments ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 29'
The Tower of the Church ... ... ... ... 32
Additional Notes — The Legendary History of the
Virgin   34
Walks and Drives round Fairford —
I. — SOUTHROP, EASTLEACH, HaTHEROP, COLN, AND QnENNINGTON 35
2. — Cirencester, through Poulton, The Ampneys, &c. ... 39
3. — blbury, and up the colne valley to the roman vllla
and northleach ... ••• •¦• ••• ... 42
4.- — Kempsford, Castle Eaton, Cricklade, and back through
Down Ampney, &c. ... ... ¦•¦ ... ... 46
Lechlade ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 50
Lechlade Church ... ... ... ... ... ... 53
Shelleys' Stanzas in Lechlade Churchyard ... 54
Inglesham ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 56
Walks and Drives from Lechlade —
1. — Farringdon, White Horse, and Wayland Smith's Cave 57
2. — Highworth, Coleshill, &c. ... ... ... ... 60
3. — Burford, Broughton Poggs, Broadwell, Kencott,
Langford, &c. ... ... ... ... ... 61
4. — Kelmscot, Radcot, Clanfield, and Bampton ... ... 65

PREFACE.

T) REFACES are often of little value and seldom read. They
are perhaps only useful when they form an introduction
between the author and readers. Let this be so now, dear
reader, and thus we make your personal acquaintance with
pleasure. We have traversed the whole district several times,
and condensed in this little book all the information which could
be collected from every reliable source into as concise a form as
possible, so as to enable you to easily visit the places presented
to your notice, and quickly grasp the most interesting points in
connection with them ; we trust your visit will be thus made a
pleasant one. And here we must acknowledge a vast indebted
ness to our numerous very kind friends for their help and
information ; for without them we should not have been able to
collect and record much that is useful and serviceable to our
readers, and the residents of the district over which this Guide
extends. Cordially,
HENRY W. TAUNT.

Fairford Church and its
Painted Windows.

INTRODUCTION.
" A temple shadowy with remembrances of the majestic past,
The very light streams with a colouring of heroic days ;
In every ray which leads through arch and aisle,
A path of dreamy lustre, wandering back
To other years."
'^^-' HE market town of Fairford is pleasantly situated on
/^-^ the river Coin, between the Thames valley and the
I O 1 Cotswolds, in the south-east corner of East Gloucester-
^^»/ shire, and but a short distance removed from the
neighbouring counties of Oxford, Berks, and Wilts.
By the opening of the East Gloucestershire Railway, the
town has now for some time past been placed within easy
reach of Oxford and London (the former one hour, the latter
three hours' railway). From the south and west, it may be
reached from Swindon (12 miles), and from Cirencester (9 miles'
drive). A 'bus plies every day, to and from the latter, starting
at 10.30 a.m., returning at 4 p.m. ; fare, one shilling and sixpence.
The environs of the town are well wooded, and the valley of
the limpid Coin, to its source in the hills above Cheltenham, is
charmingly fresh and picturesque. The grounds and residence
of the lord of the manor, Fairford Park, are marked by great
taste — the Mansion is delightfully placed above the river, amid
surrounding woods and groves. The Coin affords a good supply
of trout, particularly in those parts of it which are well looked
after and preserved as private water.
Several sepulchral mounds, or barrows, which exist in the
parish are older than the Saxon period ; yet nothing is known,
as far as we are aware, which traces the origin of the town to
any earlier times than those of the Anglo-Saxon occupation.

2 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
In connection, then, with Saxon Fairford, the unexpected
discovery of some graves, a few years ago, brought to light
many objects of interest, among which we may name a sword
with scabbard edged with bronze, a wooden drinking-vessel
resembling a bucket, glass vessels, and beautiful^&wZo?.*
The town itself consists mainly of two long streets, at the
centre being a broad Market Place and street, leading up to the
Church and Park. Usually the town is very quiet ; its houses,
built of the local cornbrash, lend themselves to cleanliness ; the
main streets are paved, and the roads well looked after, and
lighted with gas. Its population in 1901 was 1403. There is
a good hotel (The Bull), in the Market Place, an omnibus from
which meets nearly every train, besides other smaller inns, &c.
Fairford Retreat is a home for the reception and cure of
persons afflicted with mental disease, and has extensive grounds
adjoining. There are two bridges across the river. The trout
fishery in the Coin is, besides the Church, one of the great
attractions to Fairford, a large number of anglers visiting the
town every year during the season, which lasts from April ist to
the end of September. There is no public water above Fairford
Bridge, the whole of the river being in private hands, except that
at Bibury, where there is a fishery belonging to the proprietor of
the Swan Hotel.
From Fairford Bridge downwards to Broad-board bridge, a
distance of about one-and-a-half mile, is the public water rented
by the proprietor of the Bull Hotel ; then comes a short stretch
of private water, after which the fishing is again for the next
mile held by the same hotel. This water is open to holders of
tickets, which are charged 2/6 per day, and can be obtained at
The Bull.
Dry fly fishing only is allowed. The trout range from three-
quarters of a pound (below which weight no fish is allowed to be
taken), up to as much as three pounds, the average weight being
between one and two pounds. The river is kept clear of coarse
fish in the public water, and varies in width from twenty to
seventy feet. Wading is allowed, but is really unnecessary ; and
is, in fact; harmful to the fishing, as it often disturbs and drives
away good fish.
* To those interested in archaeology, we may Observe that they may see the specimens
found in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, and may find full particulars of the discovery
in Mr. Wyllie's " Fairford Graves"

Lechlade, and the District around them. 3
The kind of flies most killing here are the March Browns,
Dun's Quills, Gnats, Alders, and May Flies. Very light tackle is
used, excepting perhaps in the Mayfly season. Flies and tackle
can be obtained at Thomas Powell's, who is agent for Ogden's
celebrated fishing requisites, and keeps a stock in hand.
The earliest mention of Fairford seems to be Burgred, King
of the Mercians, gave two hides in Fairford to the nunnery of
Glo'ster when Eva was Abbess, about 850. In Domesday Bictric
is said to have held the manor of Fairford in "Brictwoldsberg"
Hundred of King Edward the Confessor. It was taxed at twenty-
one hides ; there were thirty plows and three mills. Queen Maud
held it of the Conqueror, and Humphrey under her. It paid
^"38 10s. yearly. Maud gave four hides of the Manor to John, her
chamberlain, in which were six plow tillages, which paid £g.
The same Queen gave three hides and three yard lands to
Baldwin ; these paid £\. The manor and town was held by the
Clares, Earls of Glo'ster, then by Hugh Despencer the younger,
then by the Beauchamps and the Crown, until John Tame bought
it of Henry VII. He was High Sheriff of Glo'ster 1536 and
1 541, and died in 1544. The Manor afterwards passed through
various hands, until it came by purchase into the Barker family.
Fairford was the birthplace in modern times of John Keble,
author of The Christian Year. The house in which he was
born is still standing at the lower end of London Street, on the
way from the station.
FAIRFORD CHURCH.
Fairford Church is seated upon a gentle slope, not far from
the river Coin, and near the site of Beauchamp and Warwick
Court, once the seat of the great Earl of Warwick. On the
opposite side was the home of John Tame, the founder of the
present Church, and his son Sir Edmund. The grounds of a
modern villa to the south-west mark this site.
The oldest part of the Church is the base of the Tower, includ
ing the exterior up to the second string course, which belongs
chiefly to the thirteenth century, though the column and arch
disclosed in the south-western pier inside the Church is, perhaps,
older still.
The lower piers of the Tower are hexagonal in shape, though
this is not seen inside the Church, the original piers having been

4 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
cased ; their massive appearance is not in accord with the elegant
clustered pillars and graceful lightness of the rest of the building.
Viewed from the exterior, the Church is a good example of the
late Perp. or Tudor Gothic. Excepting the absent crosses and
empty niches, the Tower is in perfect preservation, which is due
in great part to the durability of the stone of which it is built.
The hexagonal form of the piers of the Tower up to the first
string course, and the octagonal form between the first and
second, as well as the Perp. character of the ornament, can be
seen perfectly from the outside. And the armorial bearings of
the various lords of the manor concerned with the present and
former buildings are still on the faces and angles of the Tower.
The shields date from the thirteenth century downwards. The
lancet-arches, each inclosing a panel on the interior ; the lancet-
windows, with trefoil heads seen in these four panels, point to
the same period, while the lower arches and the ball-flower
ornament disclosed in , the north-west pier, correspond with the
evidence of the existence of a Church in Decorated style. Thus
we have work belonging to the E. E., Dec, and Perp. styles, the
thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries.
The history of the foundation of the present Church is full
of the deepest interest. The exact date of its foundation is
uncertain ; but there is no doubt that to John Tame in the first
place, and to his son Sir Edmund in the second, we owe the
present structure, with the stained windows it contains. Accord
ing to Atkyns, the dedication took place in 1493. As to the exact
share which Sir Edmund bore in the work, it is very difficult to
decide. It is probable that as the embellishment of the Church with
its windows was a work of several years, we may safely assign the
date between 1493 and 1505, thus allowing for their completion
after John Tame's death in 1500. There is internal evidence to
show that the design must have been by one artist, for every
window has its relation to the rest. Moreover, the execution of
the different parts bear traces of the same master hand, and the
glass bears an evident relation to the building, and points to the
former having been designed for the latter ; thus we may safely
discard the story as to the windows having been captured at sea,
the origin of which is probably due to the glass having been
brought from abroad in merchant ships. But there is no sufficient
reason to doubt the story of the removal of the glass in the
seventeenth century. The confusion visible, both in the order

Lechlade, and the District around them. 5
of the figures and in the details, tends to prove a hurried removal,
and subsequent well-meant, but unskilful, restoration of the
original glass.
The entrance to the Church is by the south porch; over the
gateway of which is a niche with elegantly groined canopy,
in which stood a statue of Our Lady. Inside may be seen
the stoup, once used for holy water, and remains of panelling
upon the walls. As you enter the Church, notice the fine effect
of the windows on the opposite side. On arriving in the nave,
glance east and west, and then notice those on the side by which
you have entered ; you will thus be enabled to observe the
general effect before proceeding to view each in detail. The
visitor will find it convenient to view the Church first, and
afterwards to devote time to the windows alone. The building
consists of a nave, choir, and side-aisles, with central Tower, the
lengthening of the aisles forming, on the north, the chapel of
the Blessed Virgin, and, on the south, the chapel of the Blessed
Sacrament. The length of the building is 120 feet, and its breadth
55 feet. The height of the tower to the top of the pinnacles
is eighty-three feet. Remains of screens, carved in wood, divide
the nave from the choir, the aisles from the chapels, and these
again from the choir. The carving exhibits various kinds of
foliage and fruit, among which are vine-leaves and grapes, and
the pomegranate. Beneath the choir-seats are quaint Misereres ;
but the carving here is ruder than that of the screens.
Upon the two piers of the tower are remains of wall-paintings
of two angels bearing shields, on which are emblems of the
Passion of our Lord. The figure to the left of the spectator is
less injured than the other, and, with the aid of a glass, the five
wounds may be seen upon the shield. These angels have suffered
much from the whitewash with which it was the fashion to cover
everything within Churches, and from the subsequent scraping ;
but the more perfect of the two is of pleasing form and expres
sion. In general outline, as well as drapery, these figures are
similar to the angels seen in the windows.
At the restoration of the Church some years ago, a S.
Christopher was brought to light on the wall of the north
aisle; but some of the parishioners objecting to its defaced
appearance, it was removed. There are remains upon the inside
of the piers of the tower, of diaper work with pomegranate
ornament, and on the inside face of the north-east pier is a Pope,

6 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
with cross in left hand, and right raised in blessing ; and above
this, .the outline of a building. On the north-west pier are the
letters tfDai'i. On the south-east pier are the emblems of the
Passion ; and the similarity in shape of the chalice and cross here,
and in Windows VI., VII., and VIII. is especially remarkable.
The emblems of the Passion are a ladder, the lance and sponge
surrounded by drops of blood, a vessel, the dice, the T-cross,
the chalice and basin, above which are drops of blood again
repeated. On this pier are also faint indications of a figure of
our Lord with angels above, generally described as the Cruci
fixion. Before leaving the subject of the Church itself, we may
add that on the inside, as well as the outside, the walls of the
tower were originally adorned with statues, the pedestals and
canopies of which still remain in the angles of the masonry ;
secondly, that the angels forming the corbels in the sanctuary
represent eight of the nine choirs of heaven, the absent Seraphim
making up the ninth choir; and thirdly, the Dec.Church preceding
the present was cruciform in shape, as may be seen from the line
of the roof of the transept at its junction with the north exterior
face of the tower.
THE PAINTED WINDOWS.
"But let my due feet never fail
To walk the studious cloisters pale,
And love the high imbowed roof,
With antique pillars massy proof,
And storied windows richly dight,
Casting a dim religious light.
There let the pealing organ blow,
To the full-voiced quire below,
In service high, and anthems clear,
As may with sweetness through mine ear,
Dissolve me into ecstacies,
And bring all heaven before mine eyes." — II Pcnscroso.
The great attraction of Fairford Church is undoubtedly its
beautiful windows. To all interested in Christian art, they form
a subject of delight, no less to the student than to the antiquarian,
and to the poet. It is not well known that they were a source of
interest and pleasure to the accomplished and amiable author of

Lechlade, and the District around them. 7
The Christian Year. Mr. Winston, an authority on the subject
of stained glass, said of them: "They are, perhaps, the best
specimens, and the greatest number existing in England of the
sixteenth century. They are valuable examples of the arrange
ment and disposition of subjects in use at that time. . . . The
shadows are bold and deep, but perfectly transparent, the
drawing of the draperies excellent, and the figures themselves
tolerably correct, and a general richness and warmth is imparted
to the picture by using a fine brown enamel for the shading,
the colour of which is assisted by the yellow tone of the glass,"
to which time has added.
But the oft-quoted opinion of the Flemish master Van Dyck,
is perhaps the most' remarkable of all. In substance this opinion
was, that many of the figures were so exquisitely done, that they
could not be exceeded by the best pencil."
The most praiseworthy efforts have been exerted at various
times for the safety of the glass, yet its preservation is not so
complete as could be wished. There are instances of damage to
figures and faces enacted in Puritan times. Then in the hurried
removal at the period of the Civil Wars, and subsequent replace
ment, much injury was done, and the various figures and designs
were mixed up together and confused. In the third place, the
three windows of the west front, forming together a magnificent
triptych, were all greatly shattered and broken by the violence
of a remarkable storm which passed over the town about 1703-4;
but this has been provided against in future by the liberality of
the Hon. Mrs. Farmore, and each window is made secure by a
stout wire lattice.
A tradition has grown that the windows may have been the
work of Albert Durer, but there is no evidence of any kind to
enable us to state that such is the case. There are no doubt some
few traces which appear to be Flemish work ; but these again
are more than balanced by those of pure English details, such as
the Royal badges, which are introduced in more than one place.
The windows are of two classes, those containing complete
pictures in one or more panels, and the figure and canopy
windows. The first class contains the great western window of
the Last Judgment, the principal scenes in the life of our Lord,
with the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin and the Transfigur
ation of Christ, each of which forms the central picture of the
north and south chapels respectively.

8 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
The figure and canopy windows contain twelve Apostles
and twelve Prophets ; four Fathers of the Church and four
Evangelists ; twelve Saints and twelve Persecutors of the
Church. The relations of these to each other may be sketched
thus : — Windows.
Pictorial Windows, containing —
Typical subjects  2
Scenes from the Life of Christ  7
^together Anti~tyF>e formingj- Great West Triptych ... 3
Figure and Canopy Windows, containing —
In the South Aisle: 12 Apostles, 4 Fathers  4
Answering to —
In the North Aisle : 12 Prophets, 4 Evangelists  4
In the South Clerestory : 12 Saints of the Church ... 4
Answering to—
In the North Clerestory : 12 Persecutors of the Church... 4
28
Although there is evidence of the original order of the windows,
and of the figures contained in them not having been exactly
preserved in the seventeenth century restoration, yet for the con
venience of visitors we shall follow the usual order, commencing
with the first pictorial window in the north aisle opposite the
tower. The Roman numerals used refer to the windows, the
figures to the several panels in each, which are numbered from
left to right.
The whole of the windows have, within the last few years,
been re-leaded ; and, where it was possible, glass out of place has
been restored to its proper place, a large amount of time and
thought having been expended on them by the Vicar, the Rev.
F. R. Carbonell.
A beautiful and complete series of photographs of all the
windows have been taken by the author of this Guide, and may
be obtained from Thomas Powell, Stationer, Fairford ; or from
Henry W. Taunt & Co., Oxford.

Lechlade, and the District around them.

u
t> ft.

[»

»

[*

©>

7

«
L
J
[a
-4
J.
-it
Jv3
04
^
04
^>
91
9t ¦ ^L
i
-1
0<
PLAN OF FAIRFORD CHURCH WINDOWS.
io Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;

DESCRIPTION AND DETAILS OF THE
WINDOWS.
I3r" The use of an opera glass will be found most serviceable
in making out details of the windows.

Window I. (see plan.)
i. The Serpent Tempting Eve. 2. Moses and the Burning Bush.
3. Gideon and, the Sign of the Fleece. 4. The Queen of Sheba's
Visit to Solomon.
1. — The Temptation, the occasion of man's first sin against
his Maker is here depicted. The scene is Paradise. The
serpent with the head and bust of a woman is coiled round the
tree on which fruit is seen growing in various tints, and Eve is
taking the fruit. In the background are the walls and gate of
Paradise, and the fountain with four heads, three of which only
are visible.
2. — Moses at the Burning Bush. The figure in the bush is
destroyed except the sleeve of the left arm, behind being the
flames which do not consume. The bush has a green stem with
leaves well defined. Moses is half sitting by the side of a
stream, around and in which goats and sheep are reposing.
3. — Gideon, as a knight, is kneeling beneath the oak that
grew in Ophrah, his casque laid by his knees, and the fleece
by him on the ground. The angel is hovering above, touching
the offering with his rod. Beyond is a scene with trees, and a
winding river with a tiny boat being rowed upon it. Note the
brilliant red of Gideon's armour.
4. — The Queen of Sheba offers gifts to Solomon. Behind are
two attendants. The execution of the back and canopy of the
throne, and the dress of the Queen with her crown are especially
noticeable. The grisailles of this window are three secular figures, very
German in character, two angels bearing one a Spear and the
other a Cross, and S. Simon with the saw.
Window II. (Inside the Lady Chapel).*
1. The Meeting of S.Joachim and S. Anne at the Golden Gateof theTemple.
2. The Birth of the B. Virgin. 3. The Presentation of the B.. Virgin
* These four typical subjects are taken from the traditional history of the Blessed
Virgin. For fuller particulars see Note A.

FAIRFORD CHURCH FROM NORTH.

FAIRFORD CHURCH, INTERIOR.

Photo. Taunt, Oxford.

Lechlade, and the District around them. n
(Mary ascending the Temple Steps). 4. The Marriage of the
B. Virgin and S.Joseph.
1. — Meeting of S.Joachim and S. Anne, the parents of the
Virgin. They had been childless. An angel promised S.
Joachim that his wife should bear a child; and, as a sign, he
would meet her at the Golden Gate, the outline of which is
seen, behind being the towers of the Temple. The saints have
met and are embracing, but the figures are imperfect.
2. — The Birth of the Virgin. S. Anne is sitting in a narrow
bed, and the babe is being handed to her. Outlines of three
attendants to the right and above the bed with its hangings.
3. — The Presentation of the Blessed Virgin. At twelve years
of age she is seen entering the Temple, her parents being below
to the left. The interior is seen through the open door with the
altar lighted by a window. Above are details of architecture,
with a rose window.
4. — Marriage of the Virgin and S. Joseph. The High Priest
is joining their hands, with a number of witnesses behind, the
group of heads being fairly complete, but the bottom part is
imperfect. Above are the remains of a doorway, with figures
on either side.
The grisailles above the window are two secular figures,
two Angels of the Passion and two Martyrs.
Window III.
1. The Annunciation. 2. The Nativity. 3. The Adoration of the
Magi, or Wise Men. 4. The Purification of the B. Virgin, and the
Presentation of the Infant Jesus in the Temple.
1 . — The Annunciation. The Virgin kneels facing the spectator,
the lily by her side, and listens to the Angel Gabriel. The
Incarnation is symbolised by rays of light descending from God
the Father — in the centre of which, lower down, is the Holy
Ghost in the form of a dove. The scroll — gratia plena — is
inverted. Through an open door( is a bed, and on a tablet,
Ecce aucilla Domini fiat (Behold the handmaid of the Lord, &c.)
2. — The Nativity. This light is imperfect. The Virgin is
kneeling in adoration ; the Babe holding out his little hand. A
cruciform nimbus encircles His head, ornamented with Fleurs-
de-Lys. Outside the open doors are seen shepherds approaching,
and behind them a landscape.

12 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
3. — The Adoration of the Magi, though damaged at the foot,
is very fine. The Infant Christ is seen in the Virgin's lap,
behind her being S. Joseph leaning on his staff. One of the
Magi kneeling presents his gifts, while others are standing
behind. Above are the ox and ass, and outside a servant with
a horse. 4. — The Purification exhibits the Temple in perspective above
. the figures, among which the Virgin presents the Child to the
priest. In the foreground, an attendant maiden carries the
turtle-doves in a well-executed cage ; the stout figure in crimson
represents Simeon. The grisailles above are four secular figures
and two Angels of the Passion.
Window IV.
In the centre, The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin. 1 and 2. The
Flight of the Holy Family into Egypt; and in the background,
The Massacre of the Innocents. 4 and 5. The Finding of the
Child Jesus in the Temple.
Centre. The Virgin, surrounded by an aureole, has her feet
upon a crescent moon which the angel beneath is supporting ;
two cherubs hold a crown above, and at the top the Eternal
Father awaits her coming in the clouds.
1. 2. — Here Mary is seen reposing with the Child, the ass
grazing near. An angel bends down the branches of the fruit-
tree while S. Joseph picks the fruit. The slaughter of the
Innocents is very vividly painted in the background.
4. 5. — Jesus is seated high in the Temple, disputing with the
Doctors, while S. Joseph and Mary are entering from left. Above
them is a coffer with linen-fold carving, a cat sits on the lower
shelf. The grisailles are a Madonna and S. Anne, and half-
length figures with Saints above.
Window V.
In the Chancel. The East Window.
This window is divided by the transom into two halves, and
is distinctively ornamented by quatrefoils of parti -coloured glass
seen beneath the transom. The upper-half, which unfortunately
has suffered, contains The Crucifixion.
Below is painted the preceding part of the Passion, in five
panels : —

Lechlade, and the District around them. 13
1. The Entry into Jerusalem. 2. The Agony in the Garden. 3. The
Condemnation (Pilate washes his hands). 4. The Scourging at the
Pillar. 5. The carrying of the Cross.
To begin with the lower half :
1. — Our Lord, clothed in purple, rides in triumph to Jerusalem,
while one of the multitude is reaching a palm branch. Singers
meet Him at the gate, holding a music scroll with Gloria Laus
and Honour upon it.
2. — Jesus prays that the cup may pass from Him. The
Apostles have fallen asleep ; behind, Judas and others are coming.
3. — Our Lord before Pilate. Jesus stands bound before the
Roman Governor, who is washing his hands ; at his side being
Caiaphas, the High Priest.
4. — Jesus scourged, shows our Lord bound to a pillar ; while
Pilate and Caiaphas look out from a window above.
5. — Our Lord bearing His Cross (additional weight being
introduced, consisting of a spiked block attached by a cord), is
being driven on. In the background are the two thieves and
Calvary, where men are setting up crosses.
Above the transom, the Crucifixion which occupied it is
irretrievably damaged, neither of the crosses or three chief
figures being entire.
1. — Pilate watching the Crucifixion. with others mounted, and
one soldier on foot who carries on his belt the motto jfuge sans
besoin; above being Angels, apparently weeping.
2. — The penitent thief with angel: the white glass in the
arms of the latter representing the soul. Lower down, S. John
supports Mary the Mother of our Lord, and Mary Magdalene
with Angels over them.
3. — Attending our Lord are other Angels. Beneath, Longinus
and Caiaphas both pierce the sacred side with a lance.
4. — The impenitent thief, with attendant devil of fiery red
receiving his soul. Beneath, the Centurion, saying: "Truly
this was the Son of God " — and a soldier.
5. — A Roman standard-bearer, and some one of higher order,
with attendants mounted on horses watching the scene. An
Angel above.
The grisailles are Angels bearing various emblems of the
Passion, and secular figures with scrolls.

14 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
Window VI.
i. The taking down from the Cross. 2. The Burial of Christ. 3. The
descent into Limbo, and Rescue of the Just therefrom; above which
is, The Combat of the Angels and Devils, with Lucifer imprisoned in
Hell.
1. — The dead body of our Lord is being lowered from the
Cross by Joseph of Arimathea, who stands on the ladder, to
Nicodemus with outstretched arms below, while the Virgin and
S. John watch the descent. Higher up are two Angels.
2. — The Burial. Joseph and Nicodemus place the dead
Christ in the Sepulchre, with the weeping Mary and others in
attendance. In the distance is Calvary.
3. — The bottom of this light is imperfect, although indicated
by the lead work; but the portions of figures shows the
Descent into Hell. Above Lucifer, behind the glowing bars, is
one of the finest of all the bits of detail, the glow of the reds
increasing to white heat is most realistic, and the scene awful
in its grandeur. The demon is the very impersonation of rage,
horror, and despair. By some, this is supposed to represent a
soul, crying despairingly for help, whom the preaching of Christ
could not deliver ; but is it possible to imagine a limit to His
salvation ? Above, S. Michael and his host are driving the
fiends before them.
The grisailles above are three beautiful Angels of the Passion.
Window VII.
In the South Chapel.
In the centre, The Transfiguration. 1 and 2. Christ saluting His
Virgin Mother. 4 and 5. Christ appearing to Magdalene and the
Holy Women, with the three Marys at the Sepulchre.
The centre represents our Lord in glory, encompassed by an
, aureola of amber tint, outside which are clouds, at the top being
Angels. The sacred Host, with the monogram I.H.S. depicted on our
Lord's breast, has connection with its position in the Chapel of
the Blessed Sacrament. Beneath are Moses and Elias, and
lower still the three favoured Disciples ; but above them is a
peep of the open sky, with a quaint Rhenish building.
On the left, the two panels form one picture: Our Lord

Lechlade, and the District around them. 15
saluting His Mother, with the scroll, Salve Sancta Parens.
Note the scene here similar to that in Window IV.
On the right, the two panels form another picture : The holy
women arriving at the Sepulchre.with a beautiful landscape above
them. Below, on the right, Christ is appearing to them. Mary
Magdalene and another is kneeling, and the third Mary is seen
standing with a vessel of spices.
The grisailles are important, especially those over the centre
light. They are the Madonna, and a S. Margaret accompanied
by a large dragon. The others are Angels of the Passion and
female Saints. Window VIII. (South Side).
1 and 2. Christ manifesting Himself to the two Disciples at Emmaus.
3. Christ appearing to His Apostles, and the unbelief of S. Thomas.
1. 2. — In the foreground is a round table spread, at which
are three figures seated. In the background the two disciples
are seen entering the door. The head of Christ is not original.
3. 4. — The appearance of our Lord to the Eleven is, perhaps,
among the best of this series ; Thomas is represented as placing
his fingers in the wound on the Saviour's side.
The grisailles represent five Angels of the Passion.
Window IX.
1 and 2. The Manifestation of Christ to His Disciples at the Sea of
Tiberias, and the Miraculous Draught of Fishes. 3. The Ascension.
4. The Day of Pentecost.
1. 2. — The figure of Christ in this is in marked contrast to
the last ; and while S. Peter regards our Lord, S. James and
S.John haul in the net. Note the fish on the "fire of coals"
and within the meshes of the net.
Two other Disciples are in a second boat; and behind, a
Mediaeval Cathedral with numerous towers.
3. — The Ascension is treated in an antique manner. A pillar
like rock rises from the midst of the Apostles, and on its summit
the footprints of Christ, whose feet are seen above, while His
body is lost in the clouds.
4. — In the descent of the Holy Ghost, the dove is surrounded
by a rayed aureola. Below is the group of Disciples, with the

1 6 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
Holy Mother in the centre. The figures are full of life and
action. Grisailles— Four Angels — with two secular figures.
We now come to the aisle windows. In Nos. X., XL, XII.
and XIII. are the twelve Apostles and four Fathers. Those in
the north aisle opposite, contain the twelve Prophets and four
Evangelists. All these, with the Clerestory lights, are of one
class, wherein a single figure, with emblems, forms the picture.
The figures in the aisles are each placed on a pedestal, with a
canopy overhead ; the Apostles and Prophets bearing a scroll,
having in the case of the former an Article from the Creed, and
the latter one of their own texts.

Window X.
This and the two following contain the Twelve Apostles.
i. S. Peter with scroll containing the first Article of the Creed : —
"Credo in Deum Patrem Omnipotentem creatorem colli et terrce."
(I believe in God, the Father Almighty, maker of heaven and
earth).
2. S.Andrew: " Et in Jesum Christum Filium ejus unicum Dominum
nostrum." 'And in Jesus Christ, His only Son our Lord).
3. S.James the Greater: "Qui conceptus est de Spiritu Sancto,natus ex
Maria Virgine."
(Who was conceived by the Holy Ghost, born of the Virgin
Mary).
4. S. John : " Passus est sub Pontio Pilato, crucifixus, mortuus et
sepultus."
/Suffered under Pontius Pilate, was crucified, dead and buried).
S. Peter, full of life and dignity, is perhaps the finest figure
of the Apostles. With one hand he bears the keys, emblematic
of his office.
S. Andrew bears his well-known cross ; S. James the Greater,
the lance and book. S. John carries a chalice, with dragon
coming forth therefrom, above which his hand is raised in blessing.
The grisaille figures are two Angels (incomplete), a Madonna,
a Sainted Queen with book and sword, two secular German
figures, and two Prince of Wales's feathers.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 17
Window XL
1. S. Thomas : "Descendit ad inferna, tertia die resurrexit a mortuis."
(Descended into hell, the third day He rose again from the dead).
2. S. James the Less : "Ascendit ad Ccelos, sedit ad dexteram Dei Patris
omnipotentis." (He ascended into heaven, and sitteth on the right hand of God
the Father Almighty).
3. S.Philip: "Indeventurus est judicare vivos etmortuos."
(From whence He shall come to judge the quick and the dead).
4. S. Bartholomew: " Credo in Spiritum Sanctum."
(I believe in the Holy Ghost).
S. Thomas carries an open book, S. James a club, S. Philip
the cross, S. Bartholomew the knife and book of the Gospels.
The canopies are particularly beautiful.
The grisaille figures are three Angels of the Passion.
Window XII.
1. S. Matthias (there is some mistake here; and the scroll of S.
Thomas, with slight variation, is here repeated, instead of the
article proper to the Apostle): "Descendit ad inferos, tertia die
resurrexit a mortuis," instead of " Sanctam Ecclesiam Catholicam
Sanctorum communionem."
(The Holy Catholic Church).
2. S.Simon: " Remissionem peccatorum."
(The forgiveness of sins).
3. S.Jude,orThaddeus: " Carnis resurrectionem."
(The resurrection of the body).
4. S. Matthew : " Et vitam eternam. Amen."
(And life everlasting. Amen).
S. Matthias, a figure similar to S. Philip, bears a cross ; S.
Simon, a saw in one hand, an open book in the other. The
other figures are modern restorations of some forty years ago.
The grisailles are three Angels of the Passion, one being in
complete ; two saints : one, S. Paul, carries a sword, the other a
chalice (S. John as Apostle).
Window XIII.
The four Fathers of the Western Church : 1. S.Jerome. 2. S.Gregory.
3. S.Ambrose. 4. S.Augustine.
S. Jerome is vested as a cardinal ; he carries a cross, and is
accompanied by a lion.

18 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
S. Gregory holds a staff and an open book.
S. Ambrose holds a closed book in his right hand, and a
pastoral staff in his left.
S. Augustine, in green, holds " the flaming heart" in his right
hand, his pastoral staff in the other.
The grisailles are an Angel playing a harp; four saints, a
virgin, with lamp and book; S. Peter, with key and book; S.
Apollonia, with book and pincers ; and S. James Major, with
scallop shell upon his head-dress.
THE GREAT WEST TRIPTYCH.
Windows XIV., XV, XVI.
The triptych, or three-fold picture, consisting of a centre and
awing on either side, was originally used as an altar-piece; and
the two wings, or folding doors, when shut, formed a covering
for the principal subject. But the triptych was also used, as in
the Biblia Pauperum, for a series of pictures grouped together,
the two typical subjects serving to illustrate the anti-type of the
centre, as well as to show the concord of the Old and New
Testaments. This is the idea of the great Artist who designed
the triptych of the west end of Fairford Church, consisting of
three windows, containing each a scene of judgment. Window
XIV. contains the judgment of David upon the Amalekite who
declared he had slain Saul, which is thus the Judgment of Justice,
typifying the much more terrible sentence to be passed upon the
wicked at the last day, pictured on the right side of the central
window. Window XVl. contains the Judgment of Truth, typi
fying the righteous sentence which the great Judge will hereafter
pronounce severally upon the just and unjust.
Window XIV.
The Judgment of Justice.
This window, like the corresponding one, suffered severely
from the great hailstorm of 1703-4; we cannot describe the
pictures as they existed originally, but must be content with a
description of such remains as have come down to us.
David, clad in royal purple, sits upon a rich throne, on either
side of which is a lion and an ape ; he holds a sceptre in his right
hand. He is attended by his councillors, the fine heads of whom

Lechlade, and the District around them. 19
are seen on the left. On the right is the figure of an executioner
in a green jerkin, holding a sword in his right hand, and the head
of a slaughtered Amalekite in his left. The trunk of the latter
lies on the ground at the bottom of the light. Upon the blade
of the sword of the executioner is an A, by some thought to be
the initial of the Christian name of the artist. In the background
are other attendants, one of these bearing David's flag, with a
harp upon it. The double-headed eagle is seen upon another flag.
If the figures of this half of the window (below the transom) are
seen with not too bright a glare of light, they will be pronounced
very fine.
The heads of David and his councillors, though not of Jewish
type, are yet marked by dignity; while those of the executioners
are remarkable for vileness. Above the transom are various
remains, partly belonging to the subject below. The most
important of these is a figure appearing at a window and pointing
to a tablet containing inscriptions in two columns below.
The Great West Window. — XV.
The Last Judgment.
This is the most splendid window in the Church, in spite of the
fact that the upper part is mainly modern, having suffered terribly
in the great storm before mentioned, and undergone a so-called
restoration. But, notwithstanding all this, enough remains to
give a lofty idea of the beauty and grandeur of the window,
although everyone would have preferred to see it as it was in its
original condition, before 1700.
In consequence of the number of figures represented in this
window, its description will necessarily be somewhat lengthened ;
we shall therefore sketch the general features, and then proceed
in detail with each panel of the lower division. The Last Judg
ment of our Lord is represented thus : The great Judge sits
upon a rainbow, having for His footstool a crimson globe, in
which are represented falling towers and other signs of the ruin
to befall the world, and He is surrounded by the whole Court of
Heaven, the Virgin and S. John the Baptist kneeling on either
side. He is surrounded by a circular group of Angels ; by His
Apostles and Saints in a wider circle surrounding the crimson ;
by an exterior circle of blue, containing in faint outlines other
Angels ; while the remaining space is filled up by others of the

20 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
heavenly choirs, among whom are Angels bearing emblems of the
Passion. On one side is the lily — emblem of mercy — and the
scroll, "Misericordia;" and on the other the sword — emblem of
justice — and the scroll — " Justicia."
In the lower division, S. Michael, a colossal figure of noble
mien, separates the just from the wicked. He is weighing the
good and bad ; a red devil has introduced himself into the scale,
but to no effect ; the good outweighs the bad, and the soul await
ing its fate below with anxiety is saved. To the left the blessed
are entering heaven. S. Peter, with the keys, is in the act of
admitting a soul into heaven, and the kneeling figures beneath
are importuning with the greatest energy to be permitted to enter
the city. The horrors of hell are very vividly rendered, the
damned being hurried off by most hideous demons. The never-
ending flames, the portion of the lost, are wonderfully pictured
in different shades, from pale crimson to deep red. Thus the
whole scene of the Last Day is admirably portrayed, and one
might spend hours in admiring this masterpiece of design and its
numberless details.
Lower division, panel I. — On the extreme left, among the
blessed, are a monk, a pope, and two crowned heads ; these
crowns and the golden hair of the blessed souls are worthy of
remark. There are two figures of Angels near the top.
2. — S. Peter, though defaced, is yet a fine figure, full of dignity.
Above are the garments of an Angel in detached pieces, and the
lower portion of a nude figure ; these point to a soul delivered
by an Angel. Higher is a very beautiful Madonna, evidently
belonging to the tracery.
3. — A risen soul in attitude of supplication ; a second being
delivered by an Angel ; another, amid blue and amber drapery,
seems also about to be delivered by the interposition of an Angel.
Higher up is an indescribable mass of fragments, amid which is
an illegible inscription.
4. — S. Michael, a figure of noble and beautiful countenance, one
of the finest in the whole series. He is clothed in gilt armour,
outside of which he wears a cloak, ruby without and green
within ; the clasp is jewelled, and the cross-belts, girdle, &c, are
richly coloured. He wears a delicately-worked crown, above
which appears a cross. He is intently watching the scales, into
the higher one of which, on the left, an imp has inserted himself.
Beneath him are two figures of the risen, one nude, the other in

Lechlade, and the District around them. 21
the garments of the grave. The anxiety of the one, awaiting the
decision of its fate, is well expressed. The second, a woman,
seems to be shouting to S. Peter. Above S. Michael is an Angel
saving a soul. On the ground out of which the dead are rising
in the three central panels is grass, very elaborately drawn,
which will bear close inspection.
5. — One of the lost is being scourged by a devil from above.
Near the last is a greyish-purple demon carrying off a woman
on his shoulders. Higher is a frightful monster, of dull olive,
approaching to sea-green hue, and long tail, but with head of
fiery tint. Higher still an Angel is saving a soul, and bringing
the end of a staff into the mouth of another demon of greyish
purple. Higher still is the bust of an ugly figure, and portions
of demons of hideous expression.
6. — Here, beginning below, we see a woman being wheeled
off in a wheelbarrow by a horned blue devil; hideous, but
frightfully real, and full of life.* Near this last woman is a blue
devil harnessed to a cart, in which rides a figure with more
pleasant face than any of her hideous surroundings. The details
of this cart, and the look of satisfied rage the demon wears, are
extremely well done. About the middle of the panel, and amid
the living flames, a purple demon carries off a woman upon his
back, and with a chain drags after him a man, whose face
expresses the most abject misery. Above this last a man is
carried off with his head downwards by a fiery red demon,
hardly to be distinguished from the vivid flames around.
7. — The principal demon, traditionally said to be " Beel
zebub, scaly like a fish," seems to be more like a three-headed
Cerberus than any other being, with its enormous dog's head and
open mouth. The legs and claws of the creature are seen below,
amid horrid crawling creatures. Above these is the scaly head,
and immediately above this again the second head, fish-like, with
open jaw, into which some of the lost are entering. This head
is seen in profile, and only one eye is visible ; from this part of
the monster's body depend the hands; and above the hand, on
the extreme right, are the fins of the second head. The third
head is bald, with piercing yellow eyes darting forth from the
fiery pate ; not unlike a bald dog's head.
* This woman is the figure so well-known to many in consequence of its having been
pointed out as a " warning to all females : a woman being wheeled to hell for scolding her
husband."

22 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
Behind it, on the extreme right, is a well-drawn demon,
beautifully coloured. Above it are musical instruments, also
richly shaded, and near them a horrid, crawling, and serpent-like
demon. On the same level as the trumpets, and near the highest
head of the monster, is a caldron, purple at the top; in which, with
a good light, two figures of the lost may be seen.
Higher still, there is a tun, white at the top, and near it the
fiery, scaly devil, with yellow eyes, full of energy and vengeance
towards the lost souls. He is working hard to turn a rack, the
wheels of which may be distinctly perceived. Above are two
animal fiends in an upright position ; one has breasts plainly
marked. To the left of these is a furnace, the courses of the bricks
being visible, and one figure appearing in it from an aperture.
Near the top of the panel is some of the wonderful shading
for which these windows are remarkable ; here, souls, represented
by figures in carmine, are impaled in agony, while others are
tortured in the furnace last mentioned. They are all remarkable
for expression of intense woe.
Three Angels are seen beneath the transom ; two are summon
ing the dead to judgment ; another of more pleasing aspect, on
the side of the blessed, has a circular scroll with the word
Misericordia ; a similar one with the scroll Judicium Dampna-
torum ("The Judgment of the damned ") appears on the other.
In order to obtain the full effect of the lower half of this grand
picture, it should be seen by the aid of an afternoon sun, when
such vividness is lent to the flames as to light them up with such
reality that nothing could be more intense. Then the difference
in the tone, depth, and gradation of colour of the two parts, the
new and the old, may also be seen. ,
The whole of the inscriptions cannot well be deciphered, but
we give such as we have been able to read. The scroll from the
mouth of a soul saved by an angel contains, Omnis spiritus
laudet Dominum (" O let every spirit praise the Lord ; ") from
the mouth of the soul in the act of being admitted by S. Peter,
Gratias agamus Dno. Deo nostro (Let us give thanks to the
Lord our God). Another of the same character is Benedictus sit
Deus in donis suis ("Blessed be God in His gifts.") These two
belong to the condemned— Ite in damnationem paratam vobis
("Go ye into damnation prepared for you"), and Ve qd. vn qui
natus sum, perhaps for "Vae ei diei qua natus sum " (Woe to the
day on which I was born ! ")

Lechlade, and the District around them. 23
Window XVI.
The Judgment of Truth.
The principal subject is represented in the lower half of the
window, which has lost one whole panel and parts of two more.
Solomon, a more youthful figure than David, without beard,
is clothed in purple and ermine, holding the sceptre in his hand.
The clasp of the mantle is richly jewelled, and the' crown also.
Two women and an executioner are seen in panel 2 ; one of whom
has an attitude of anxiety and supplication, while the other
woman wears a look of unconcern. But the two councillors of
Solomon, Zadoc and Abiathar, in (1) are the most characteristic
figures. They are both richly attired. The first wears a garment
of a ruby tint, with deep sleeves, and fastened in front. His
peaked cap is ornamented with a circlet of pearls, and a rich
green tassel depends from it. The other is attired in blue, with
stole and a jewelled boss representing rubies and diamonds. The
front of this councillor's ermine cap is also adorned with pearls ;
enveloping the cap is glass of a fine vermilion colour. In a small
circle at the top Samson is slaying the lion. In (5) are two female
realistic figures, and above them Samson slaying the Philistine.
The man and woman in the upper part holding up tablets, on
which is the text relating to the scene, are richly attired. In (2)
there is an ugly figure at a window, with cap of pointed form,
once thought to be Midas, but which is more probably the King's
jester. In (4) there are two rather good figures, looking out from
an open window.
Window XVII.
The Four Evangelists.
The order of these figures begins from the east, like that of
the Apostles and others of this series. For convenience sake,
we take them from the west : —
1. S. John. 2. S. Luke. 3. S. Mark. 4. S. Matthew.
1. — -S. John has an eagle holding an ink-horn and pen-case at
his feet, a book is resting on his left hand, and in his right he has
a pen. His hair hangs in yellow curls, his outer robe is white,
bordered with gold, with a ruby under-garment, and gold girdle.
A nimbus is round the head of each.
2. — The face of S. Luke is blurred. He wears a scarlet robe
with green inner-sleeves, and a blue tippet ; a book open in his
hand. Below are the outlines of an ox.

24 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
3. — S. Mark has an older face than the others ; he is dressed
in a white mantle edged with gold, and blue under-garment. A
book is in his right hand, while with the other he holds up his
cloak. A lion crouches at his feet.
4. — The figure of S. Matthew has its face perfect, with long
flowing hair ; he is writing on a scroll, and an Angel is sitting at
his feet.
The grisailles are a female Saint with cross and closed book ;
a Saint with staff and book ; S. Bartholomew with his emblems,
the knife and book ; a portion of the figure of a Saint ; and an
Angel with a trumpet. The' canopies of this window are elaborate
and beautiful.
Windows XVIII., XIX., XX.
The Prophets.
The Prophets are some of the best preserved figures in the
Church. The figures are very fine and life-like, and the drapery
is of the same character as in the windows of the Apostles ; tunics,
with handsome girdles, and usually a light cloak or mantle over
them. The head-dresses are also characteristic, and often
adorned with circlets of pearhf ; while the pedestals beneath,
and the canopies above each figure are very fine. The scroll
borne by each Prophet should correspond with that borne by
the opposite Apostle.
Window XVIII.
1. Obadiah. 2. Daniel. 3. Malachi. 4. Micheas.
t. Abdias (Obadiah): " Et erit regnum Dni. Ame(n). "And the king
dom shall be the Lord's. Amen."— Abdias, 21.
2. Daniel: "[Educ] am vos de Sepulchris vestris popule meus." " I will
lead you out of your sepulchres, O My people." — Ezechiel
xxxvii. 12.
•3. Malachias : " Eum odium habueris dimitte;" for "Cum odium
liabueris'dimitte." " When thou shall hate her, put her away." —
Malachi ii. 16.
4. Micheas : " Invocabuntur omnes eum et servient ei." " All shall call
upon Him, and they shall serve Him." — Zephaniah iii. 9.
1. — Abdias (Obadiah), vested in blue, and ruby girdle, with
golden buckle of peculiar shape, the folding over and the holes
of the straps being perfectly visible.
2. — Daniel and Abdias are decidedly of Jewish type ; both have
the dramatic attitude of a speaker. Daniel is attired in ruby tunic.
3. — Malachias has a peculiarly-shaped cap.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 25
4. — Micheas (same figure as Sophonias), with blue tunic and
vermilion cap set with pearls. The two faces are bold, Jewish,
and expressive.
Grisailles : S.George slaying the dragon ; a Saint with book and
sword ; S. Paul ; an Angel, with trumpet ; and others imperfect.
Window XIX.
1. Joel. 2. Zepkanias. 3. Amos. 4. Hasea.
1. Joel: In valle Josaphat judicabit omnes gentes." "In the valley of
Josaphat He shall judge all nations." — Joel iii. 12.
2. Sophonias (Zephaniah) : Et accedam ad vos in judicio et ero testis
velox." "And I will come to you in judgment, and I will be a
speedy witness." — Malachi iii. 5.
3. Amos : "Qui edificat in coslum ascensionem." " He that buildeth an
ascent to heaven." — Amos ix. 6.
4. Oseas (Hosea) : " O mors, ero mors tua ; ero morsus tuns, O inferne!"
"O death, I will be thy destruction ; O hell, I will be thy sting."
— Oseas xiii. 14.
1. — Joel, in blue tunic beautifully brocaded, light surcoat,
brown girdle, from which depends a purse or bag. Crimson
background beautifully foliated.
2. — Sophonias, in long crimson tunic, with girdle, the knot of
which is very beautiful. A circlet of pearls on the head-dress.
3. — Amos, with a long and rich crimson tunic, and peaked hat
adorned with a circlet of pearls.
4. — Oseas, in dark brown hat, blue tunic, and light surcoat,
with a girdle of ruby and gold.
Grisailles : S. Elizabeth with basket, crown and book ; S. John
the Baptist ; Saint with book ; crowned female Saint with keys
and book, and two Angels.
Window XX.
1. 'Zacharias. 2. Isaias. 3. David. 4. Jeremiah.
1. Zacharias : "Suscitabofiliostuos." " I will raise up thy sons." — ix. 13.
2. Isaias: " Ecce virgo concipiet et pariet filium." "Behold, a virgin
shall conceive and bean a son." — Isaias vii. 14.
I.David: Deus dixit en, Filias mens es tu ! ego hodie genui te." "The
Lord said to me, ' Behold, thou art my son, to-day have I be
gotten thee.' " — Psalm ii. 7.
4. Jeremiah: " Patrem invocabitis qui fecit et condidit Ccelos." "You
shall call me, Father — who made and built the Heavens." —
Jeremiah passim cap. iii. and xxxii.

26 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
I. — Zacharias, in blue tunic, holds a scroll with both hands.
Folds of cap, rose colour, with ermine border.
2. — Isaias, in light coloured tunic, edged in ruby and gold.
His mantle rests carelessly across his shoulders. He has a
lavender-coloured bag, with gold top, and crimson and gold tassels.
3. — David's is the finest face of all the Prophets, though hidden
by the double head-gear of Prophet and King. He has a crimson
tunic, the lappets of the sleeves being olive green. The mantle
is looped up, showing the golden buckle of his girdle.
4. — Jeremiah is represented teaching, he is in blue tunic, with
a ruby bag depending by a strap and the same peculiar buckle
before noticed.
Grisailles. Two secular figures ; two Angels of the Passion,
with three nails, the lance and the sponge ; S. Paul, with book
and sword ; and an Apostle with cross and book.
These end the lower series, and we turn to
The Clerestory Windows.
On the north-side are represented twelve persecutors of the
Church, surmounted by demons in the small tracery lights, while
the south-side has Twelve Martyrs or Confessors of the Faith,
with Angels above. They do not appear to be quite in the
original order; and, in one or two cases, may not be correctly
named. For arrangement see plan on page 9.
The surmounting devils are truly hideous. Of the twelve
chief figures, eight appear, wholly or partly, in the mail armour
of the Middle Ages. The heads of the martyrs, held in various
positions by the Persecutors, are admirably done.
Window XXI.
Caiaphas and Annas, with Judas between them. — Three
extremely mean and vile faces. Judas is of especially detestable
character, as symbolised by this figure. The two former seem
to be engaged in making a bargain ; while Judas, with a purse,
stands between. The front part of the head-dress of Annas is
ornamented with a circlet of pearls, and is of ermine ; this
ermine surrounds the head, and depends below the chin grace
fully. The robe or stole is jewelled, like that of the councillor
of Solomon. The dress is that of a high priest. The figure of
Caiaphas is richly attired in ruby, gold, green and blue.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 27
Window XXII.
1. — A King, in crimson mail, variegated with spots of gold;
upon his breast a lion with open mouth. He holds the head of
a female martyr in one hand, and a sword in the other.
2. — An Emperor, crowned and clothed in mail, his breastplate
being of bright crimson. On the sheath of the sword are the
letters RENP ; and on the girdle, RIEOR. The letters on the
girdle may stand for Romanus Imp Erat OR.
3. — Herod crowned. A coarse figure, in crimson, murdering
an infant. Inscription on the skirt of the tunic, HERODES I.
This is Herod, the great persecutor of our Lord, and murderer of
the Holy Innocents. On his belt are the letters AN. HARNA.
Window XXIII.
1. — -Judging from the inscription, this is probably Herod,
author of the death of S. James the Greater. This figure is
richly attired in a tunic of brown diaper, edged with beads, and
skirt of 'green, with inscription round the sleeves. He holds a
naked sword in his right hand and a sheath in his left. The
inscriptions are EROD and BEBAS.
2. — The second figure has a ruby-coloured girdle, adorned
with gold. He holds on the tip of a sword the head of a bishop.
An ugly figure, though richly clad.
3. — The first figure has a horrible face of fiery red, with eyes
shooting forth from under his spiked helmet. In his right hand
he holds, by the hair of the head, a female saint (whom he has
caused to be martyred) ; in the left a sword.
Window XXIV.
1. — This figure, seen in the act of bending a bow, is probably
Diocletian, in contrast to S. Sebastian, who suffered martyrdom
at the hands of that tyrant. This figure has a cross-belt of
brown across the green covering of the chest. In the top of
this belt, immediately below the shoulder, is M ; then comes an
interpolation of common glass, followed by A DR.
2. — A figure clad in ruby vest, on which appear some lion
heads. With one hand he holds a battle-axe, upon which is the
head of a martyr ; the other holds the handle of his sword.
The face of this figure seems to have been of a fiery red, like
the first figure of the next window.

28 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
3. — Persecutor, crowned and richly adorned, holds the head
of a martyr in one hand, and a sword in the other. This figure
is doubtless Nero, as the name is on a band. There are portions
of inscriptions on three of the bands of this figure. The
lettering is in three lines, as follows :— (1) PAN, (2) ONER-
ONDER, (3) D. MOLA M. There is room for doubt about
the P and R of the first and second lines.
South Clerestory. — Window XXV.
1. S. Dorothea. 2. S. Sebastian. 3. S. Agnes.
1. — S. Dorothea has a cloak of blue, with an under-garment
of pale colour, fringed with gold, and another of crimson. Her
golden hair is encircled with a rose-coloured nimbus. S. Dorothea
is often represented with a basket of fruit or flowers, in
reference to the following legend: —When she was going to
martyrdom, a young advocate, named Theophilus, sneeringly
said to her : "Away, thou spouse of Christ ! Send me, from the
paradise of thy Spouse, apples and roses." S. Dorothea
answered : " I will, indeed, as you ask me." After her martyr
dom, a youth of great beauty appear to Theophilus, bearing in
his hand a basket containing fruit and flowers. It was then
February, and very frosty. Theophilus, filled with wonder,
exclaimed : " Truly, Christ is God ! " He became a Christian,
and afterwards suffered for the Faith.
2. — S. Sebastian is represented as pierced with eight arrows.
Although the features have become somewhat indistinct, yet
with a glass we may observe an expression of intense pain.
3. — S. Agnes is beautifully represented. At her feet is her
symbol, the lamb. She carries a branch of palm in one hand,
and in the other a book. This saint is of slender figure and
pleasing face, with long golden tresses. She is attired in purple,
beneath which is a bodice fastened in front and finely worked.
Window XXVI.
1. Fragments. 2. S. Margaret. 3. A sainted Bishop.
1 . — In the first compartment are a series of fragments, amid
which there seem to be the outlines of the drapery of a female
figure ; but, beyond some crimson and purple drapery, and the
pendant of a girdle, there is nothing to indicate the particular
figure intended.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 29
2. — S. Margaret wears a green cloak with rich inner robe.
At her feet lies her dragon with outspread wings, and from its
mouth hangs the skirt of her robe.
3- — A Bishop, with cross and mitre, in purple cope. Face
imperfect ; but the hand, raised in blessing, is remarkable for its
beautiful symmetry. No emblem to identify this figure. Mr.
Joyce suggests S. Thomas of Canterbury.
Window XXVII.
A sainted Emperor between two sainted Kings.
The Emperor between two kings is supposed to be Charle
magne with S. Edward and S. Edmund, but this is not certain.
These are all fine figures, though much deteriorated by imper
fections and misplacement. Each carries an orb ; the first and
third hold sceptres, and the second a sword. The amber tunic
worn by the first is beautifully diapered, and the ends of the
stole depending from his neck are of a rich green.
Window XXVIII.
A Pope between two Cardinals.
The Cardinals are possibly S. Jerome and S. Peter Damian.
The Pope holds a double cross ; one of the Cardinals carries a
book and cross ; the other a cross only. There is an indication
that the colouring has faded, in (3) the Cardinal's robe, and in
the faces of the figures. The robe of the first Cardinal is of a
rich crimson.
These complete the series of windows ; whether they are the
work of Albert Durer or by some other contemporary hand we
do not presume to say ; but, in spite of the incomplete state in
which they have reached us, their beauties are so many and so
great that they form a priceless treasure to be cherished and
preserved ; and, as they have in the past, they also in the future
constitute the greatest of all the charms of the beautiful Fairford
Church. 
MONUMENTS.
" And midst the forms in pale, proud slumber carved,
Of warriors on their tombs."
Between the chancel and the Lady Chapel is a beautiful altar
tomb to John Tame — the founder of the Church — and his wife

30 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
Alice. It is of Purbeck marble, with effigies, arms, and in
scriptions cut in brass covering it. The figure of John is in
plate armour with hands folded, and the lady has a long robe
with girdle and with wimple on her head.
There are four corner escutcheons, i. Argent, a lion azure
combatant with a griffin vert; Tame. 2. Argent, a chevron
gules, between three popinjays proper ; Twynihow. At their
feet, Tame impaling Twynihow.
At the feet of these two figures is seen, beautifully inscribed : —
"ffor Jesus* love, prag for me;
5 mag nor prag, nowe prag ge,
TOUtb a paternoster & an "Eve,
ttbat mg pagngs relessio mag be."
Around the verge was : —
"©rate pro anfmabus Job'is Game, armlgeri, et 2Uicie ujoris
ejus, qui qufoem Job'es obfft octavo ofe mensis dfiaii, Snno
D'nf .rliMllesimo guingenteslmo, et anno regni Ibendci Septt
sei'to decfmo. , Et preoicta Slicla obiit vicesslmo Die mensis
jfDecembris anno 2>'nl jUMllesfmo cccc, septuagessimo primo
quorum animabus propicietur 2>eus."
" Pray for the souls of John Tame, Esquire, and of his wife,
Alice ; John died on the eighth day of the month of May, a.d.
1500, and the sixteenth year of the reign of King Henry VII.
And the aforesaid Alice died on the twentieth day of the month
of December, a.d. 1471, on whose souls may God have mercy."
The position of this tomb is important, in reference to the
share which John Tame bore in the rebuilding of the existing
Church. It is placed beneath the screen dividing the Choir from
the Ladye Chapel, thus belonging to both, and in close proximity
to the altars ; at which, according to the terms of his will, mass
was to be offered for the repose of his soul.
On the floor in the Lady Chapel is the tomb of the son of the
founder, Sir Edmund Tame, who also had a share in the com
pletion of the Church. It is a blue marble slab, inlaid with
brasses of Sir Edmund in armour, his two wives on either side,
and his five children beneath. ,

Lechlade, and the District around them. 31
Around the verge of Sir Edmund's tomb is the following
inscription : —
"Ot gout Cbaritie prag for tbe Soule of Eomuno Came,
Knigbt, beere unoer buries, wbicb Decessfo in tbe Jtjere of ©ur
3LorO (5o5 a Gbousanfc cccccjjEilii.,* anO for tbe Soule of agnes
bis first "UHife wbicb 5ecesst5 tbe jjvi. 5ag of Julg, anno
2>'ni rtlMllesimo cccccvi.,t an5 on all ftent Soules 5'bu§ bave
rtfcercg. amen."
The inscription, "Of your charitie," &c, is given as it existed
originally ; but as seen at present, we read, " Of your charity pray
for the 'sone of Edmund Tame ; ' " this last portion having been
clumsily substituted by some would-be restorer.
Upon a plate affixed to the wall are effigies of the same
persons kneeling, with the following inscriptions : —
"Jesu TLor5 tbat ma&e us,
ano witb ttbg 381oo& us bougbt,
jforgtve us ouv trespass."
"1bic jacent Ebmonbus Game, dlMles, et agues et Blteabetb
ujotes ejus qui quiOem E&monbus obiit primo bie ©ctobris
anno 2>'ni m&rj$iiii. ct anno regui IRegis Ibenrtci ©ctavi
vicessimo sejto, quorum a*i'arum proptcietur Deus. amen."
" Here lie Edmund Tame, Knight, and Agnes and Elizabeth
his two wives; Edmund died on the first day of October, a.d.
1534, and in the twenty-sixth year of the reign of King
Henry VIII., on whose souls may God have mercy. Amen."
There is another monument in this chapel, to Roger Lygon
and Katherine his wife, whose first husband was Sir Edmund
Tame, grandson of the Founder of the Church. On the top of
the tomb are effigies of them in freestone. He is represented in
armour, and his wife in the dress of the time, the most remarkable
feature of which is the ruffs which were in vogue in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth. Arms: Argent, two lions passant gules.
Lygon impaling quarterly. 1. Gules, a bend ingrailed azure
between three leopards' faces jessant de lys: Dennys. 2. Or, a
raven proper within a bordure gules, charged with bezants;
Corbet. 3. Argent, on a chief gules three bezants; Russel.
4. Lozengy or and azure, a chevron gules ; De Georges.
* a.d. 1534. + a.d. 1506. } Christian. § Jesus.

32 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
While seeing this part of the Church, the visitor may notice the
fine execution of the screens, some portions of which were restored
by Mr. Beale a few years ago. The old and the new can be
readily seen and compared together. In the chancel, the choir
seats, of good old oak, still remain, with their misereres quaintly
carved underneath. The corbel angels of the chancel represent
eight of the Heavenly choirs.
The Reredos, in three panels, was erected, and the sanctuary
re-paved with encaustic tiles at the expense of the late vicar of the
parish, the Right Hon. Lord Dynevor. On the wall to the right
of the sanctuary is seen a marble tablet erected to the father of
the author of the Christian Year, and some other members of
the family. On the wall to the left, and beyond the door of the
vestry, is a marble slab, erected to the memory of the preserver
of the windows. It contains this inscription : — (translated)
" This monument is consecrated to the memory of William
Oldisworth, Esq., a faithful worshipper of God, a very loving
husband, a prudent and indulgent father, a faithful friend, the
advocate, doctor, and steward of the poor; he married Mary,
the daughter of Wm. Austin, Esq., of the county of Surrey, by
whom he had a numerous family. Died Oct. 3, 1680, aged 70."

THE TOWER AND ITS CARVINGS.
Lords of the Manor whose shields appear upon it.

The Tower is adorned upon each face of its parapet with
shields carved in strong relief. On every place there are three
shields. The centre of each triplet is a shield of arms, and on
either side of the central shields are others — either badges or trade
emblems. Thus each face becomes the record of one family,
whose history and fortunes are connected with the place.
On the east face is the shield of the De Clares, which in the
language of heraldry is thus described : " Or, three chevronels
gules." The date of the acquirement of the manor by Richard
De Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hertford, is very early in the
thirteenth century. From the De Clares the manor passed to the

Lechlade, and the District around them. 33
De Spensers, and on the northern face of the Tower is their
shield : " Quarterly, the first and fourth argent ; the second and
third gules, a fret or; over all, a bend sable."
Next come the Beauchamps and then the Nevills. On the
south face is the well-known shields of the older Earls of
Warwick, being the arms of Newburgh : " Cheeky, or and azure,
a chevron ermine." This is the most ancient of the coats of
arms of the Warwick Family. Upon the same parapet, the
smaller shields have on one side the ragged staff, and on the other
a fetterlock shut.
Upon the western face is the shield of John Tame himself;
the charge is a wyvern on the dexter side, combating a lion
crowned on the sinister. On the tomb, the beasts change places,
and the wyvern receives hind legs, and so becomes a dragon.
This shield, it seems, bears the coat-of-arms of John Tame
himself, and not that of his son, Sir Edmund. And, again, there
exists upon the north parapet, near its eastern extremity, and
immediately over the place assigned for his burial by John Tame
himself, a merchant's mark, thus showing the correctness of the
tradition which assigns the foundation to him, and not his son
and successor.
Mr. Joyce states that the rude heraldic sculptures on the north,
south, and east lowest faces are older than the existing Church,
though he ascribes the lower part of the Tower of the Church to
the Decorated period, rather than an earlier one.
At each angle of the Tower is a rude figure seated on a castle,
holding either a club, or other means of defence, and bearing
heraldic shields upon either breast. There is also a gigantic head
rudely sculptured on the south lower face ; though possibly, like
the bear and the ragged staff of the eastern face, a later insertion,
which has not been before noticed. A rude figure of our Lord
on the western face has likewise every appearance of being an
interpolation of later date.
The lower string-courses which divide the Tower into panels
are peculiar, and wear an early look like the masonry of the piers ;
they are of totally different character from the string-courses of
the clerestory, which terminates at its junction with the Tower.
The Tower, like the exterior walls of the Church, is battle-
mented at the top ; the crocketed pinnacles are well finished.
The gargoyles, though not fulfilling their original purpose of
water-spouts, are fantastic in design and skilfully executed. The

34 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
whole exterior, as it came from the builder's hand, with crosses,
finials and statues complete, must have been very finished and
beautiful to the eye of the beholder.

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

Window II. — The Legendary History of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
For the more complete elucidation of the artist's meaning in
the introduction of these four subjects, attention may be drawn
to the leading points in this history, taken from the Greek
Gospels, some of which date from the third century.
Towards the decline of the religion of the Hebrews, there lived
at Nazareth, in Galilee, a just man named Joachim, of the tribe
of Judah, and of the race of David. His wife Anne was likewise
righteous, and their married life was marked by the practice of
every virtue. One blessing alone was wanting to their union—
they were without children, and sterility in Israel was a reproach.
On this account, the offering of Joachim was refused, and he sees
himself driven from the Temple. Then sadness fills their hearts,
and Joachim fasts forty days. But their virtues and many prayers
are at length rewarded. An angel appears to Anne, with the
assurance that she shall conceive ; and promises, in token thereof,
that she shall meet Joachim at the Golden Gate of the Temple
on her return home. Anne vows to consecrate her child to God.
In the meantime, an angel also appears to Joachim, as he
keeping his flocks on the mountain, and gives him the like assur
ance of offspring, and the like token of its fulfilment. Accordingly,
this righteous couple meet at the appointed spot, and this is the
scene which is represented in the first subject of this window.
In accordance with the word of the angel, in due time a child
is born to them, whom they name Miriam (Mary), a name signi
fying in Hebrew, Star of the Sea; and in Syriac, lady. The
Nativity of Mary, hence, is the second subject herein depicted.
The Presentation of the Virgin took place at an early age ; in
consequence of the vow made by her parents before her birth,
she was solemnly admitted into the number of young virgins who
were brought up under the shadow of the altar, and attached to the
service of the Temple ; and Mary accompanied this offering of her

Lechlade, and the District around them. 35
parents by an entire dedication of herself to the will of God, and
to His service. This forms the third picture herein represented.
When the Holy Virgin had reached her fifteenth year, she
consented, in obedience to the wishes of her guardians — the priests
of the Temple — to espouse S. Joseph, like herself, of the family of
David and the tribe of Judah. And this is the subject of the
fourth picture of the window.
Three of these subjects form additional parallels of the subjects
of the next window, which may be grouped together thus : the
Annunciation to Joachim and Anne, and the Annunciation to
Mary ; the birth of Mary and the birth of Jesus ; the Presentation
of Mary, and the adoration and offerings of the Magi ; and lastly,
though the connection of the two is less apparent, there remain
the espousals of Mary and Joseph; and answering to this, the
Purification of Mary in obedience to the law, combined with the
Presentation of the Child Jesus in the Temple. Last of all,
doubtless these subjects have an evident relation to the position
they hold in the chapel, placed under the special invocation of
the Mother of God by the founder himself.

WALKS AND DRIVES ROUND FAIRFORD.

The country round Fairford is very charming, and as inter
esting to the antiquarian as it is to the artist. Under Lechlade
we have added other walks and drives which can also be taken
from Fairford, as the short four miles of good main road which
lies between the two towns is not much to add to a pleasant
drive, and these drives round Fairford can also be taken from
Lechlade. A one-inch Ordnance map is most useful, the two
sheets wanted for this district, Nos. 235 and 252, costing one
shilling each, extend over nearly the whole of the district covered
by this guide ; or there are cheaper and smaller scale county
maps, to be had from most stationers at sixpence each.
1.— SOUTHROP, EASTLEACH. HATHEROP, COLN, AND
QUENNINGTON. '
The second turn on the Lechlade road is the way to Southrop,
a rather pretty village with an interesting Norman and E. E.
Church, dedicated to S. Peter, and noted for the herringbone

36 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
work in its early walls, and for its quaint old font, around which
are sculptured figures. The chancel arch is bold heavy Norman,
leading into an Early English chancel, which has a leper's
window, and an altar tomb to Sir Thomas Conway and his lady ;
the gentleman is in armour, and the lady in Elizabethan costume.
The north door of the Church is trans-Norman, with carved
caps and a row of billet moulding round the hood-mould ; and
there is, in the manor house near, another Norman door, probably
once the south door of the Church.
A tomb in chancel to Thomas Keble, sen., 1670, and Elizabeth,
his wife ; but the inscription is not complete. There is another
earlier tomb to Edmond, son of Thomas Keble, 1656. The glory
of the Church is the font, the panels of which are most quaint,
having Moses in the centre, turning to the Church on the L., and
away from Synagoga on R., followed by soldiers representing
Virtues trampling on Vices — Pity on Envy — Temperance on
Luxury — Benevolence on Avarice — Patience on Anger — and
Modesty on Drunkenness.
It is but a short distance to the twin villages of Eastleach
Martin or Burthorpe, and Eastleach Turville, partly along the
bank of the River Lech, which gives its name to all these
villages ; Southrop being the south village, and Northleach the
northern one. This is a pretty spot, one of the gems of Gloucester
shire. The two old Churches stand close to the river, divided
only by it and the road ; while behind and around, the village is
dotted up the hill, which rises sharply, and forms the outside of
the nest in which the Churches repose.
Here also, as at Southrop, we are in " Kebleland;" the saintly
poet ministered to these pretty villages for eight years, and more
than one of his poems are tinged by their scenery. Walk through
the churchyard on to the quaint old footbridge over the river,
called Keble's bridge, from his daily passing over it from the
Church to the queer Gothic house on the hill, and then turn to
the Church. Listen to the poet's description :
" Now the old grey tower we see,
Haply down some opening glade."

And again:

'With that calm footpath tending high,
Which with its many feet hath spanned the brook,
Where all is still around thee, lovely spot,
Save stilly heard o'er ever-waving wild,
And the meek eye of blue forget-me-not."

Lechlade, and the District around them. 37
And it is usually claimed that Keble's beautiful evening hymn
was composed in the Rectory garden.
The Kebles were descended from Sir Henry Keble, Lord
Mayor of London in 15 10. They possessed the manor of East
leach, and it descended to five successive Richard Kebles until
sold to Sir John Webb. The Kebles were also settled at
Lechlade, as well as Fairford, the latter already noticed as the
poet's birthplace.
But the Tower itself is not so old as other parts of the Church ;
the chancel, for instance, which is thirteenth century work, with
its triplet east window, and-a double lancet with inner foliations
in the south wall. There is a large Dec. north transept, with a
fine five-light window, and the Tower arch inside the Church, of
horseshoe curve, is probably earlier than the rest. Note the
remains of the Sancte bell on the roof of the Church, and over
the east window outside a niche and quatrefoil.
Over the river bridge is Eastleach Turville, with its beautiful
little Church of S. Andrew. The south doorway is Norman,
with quite a number of rows of zig-zag, besides having its side
columns ornamented, and a tympanum with our Lord within a
glory held by angels on either side. The whole doorway is
worthy minute observation. Enter, and at once it is apparent
that the Church had at one time a north aisle, the arcade being
now built up ; the chancel is Early English, with a triple lancet
window connected by an arcade ; but the chancel arch is later,
with clustered columns and carved caps. In the north transept,
under a triple light window, is a canopied tomb, with floreated
cross on the lid of the stone coffin : the ornamentation is well
carved with ball flower ; and close by is an old chest, dated 1678.
The western tower has a saddleback roof and fourteenth century
windows, and there are remains of a cross in the churchyard.
In passing up the village, note the spring near the river collected
into a stone fountain by Sir Thomas Bazley, of Hatherop, to
whom the property now belongs ; and further on, the rather
picturesque groups of cottages, one of which is surmounted by a
clock tower at the corner.
Hatherop Castle is the next picturesque house on this route,
the seat of Gardner S. Bazley, Esq. Its history dates to Saxon
times, when Dunning and Wulward held Etherop in the time of
Edward the Confessor; and Robert de Laci held one, and Hernulf
de Hesding held the other Manor of William. The advowson

38 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
of the Church, a water-mill and the lands belonging to the priest,
were given to the monks of Gloucester when Pulo was abbot.
The Manor passed into the Salisbury family ; and the heiress,
Ela, was married to William Longespee, son of Henry II., by
Fair Rosamund. She, outliving him, gave it to the Abbey of
Lacock, herself becoming a nun and abbess. After the dissolu
tion, it came to Sir W. Sherrington ; then to the Blomers. John
Blomer built the Hatherop Manor House in Elizabeth's reign,
and from them it passed to the Webbs. In 1700 it belonged to
Sir John Webb, whose daughter married the Earl of Derwent-
water, beheaded in 1745 for supporting the Pretender. About
1850, the mansion and the Church was restored by Baron De
Mauley, to whose wife, the Lady Barbara Astley Cooper, a
beautiful monument, with recumbent effigy, was placed in the
De Mauley chapel of the Church. The house stands in a
charming situation, on the eminence above the Coin, and affords
picturesque views across the pretty valley.
Adjoining the village of Hatherop is Williamstrip Park, with
its well-built house, until lately the seat of Sir Michael Hicks-
Beach, Bart., the distinguished Cabinet Minister under Lord
Salisbury. The Park is larger than that of Hatherop, and
reaches to Coin St. Aldwyns village, the road pleasantly running
between the two properties.
The Manor of Williamstrip was at one time held by the
Handelo family ; and afterwards by Henry Powle, whose
daughter married Henry Ireton. Coin St. Aldwyns stands in a
charming position on the rising ground above the river after
which it is named; and the beautiful old Manor House, now the
residence of Sir Michael Hicks-Beach, occupies, with the Church,
the summit level.
"Upon the rising ground a grey Church tower,
Whose battlements were screened by tufted trees,"
sings Keble, whose father was vicar here some fifty years, and
who himself ministered here for ten years. Coin St. Aldwyns
is a pretty Church, with its south Norman door, its Early
English chancel and tower, with later upper story, and Dec.
windows to the nave and transepts ; but the river is more lovely
still where the little island, with its clump of willows, divides
the sparkling water. The poet says :

Lechlade, and the District around them. 39
"Nor for yon river islet wild,
Beneath the willow spray ;
Where, like the ringlets of a child,
Thou weav'st thy circle gay."
From Coin we return down through the village and valley,
and then, crossing the river, breast the stiff rise ; after which,
either the first or second turn to the left leads to Quenington,
with its little Norman Church, and the small remains of its
Refectory of the Templars. Roger de Laci held it, with 115
other manors, from the Conqueror ; and one of this family, or the
monks of Gloucester, probably built the Church, as it dates from
early in the twelfth century. Its greatest charm are the grand
Norman doorways, each of which have carved tympani ;' the
subject of the north door is the Triumph of Christ over death
and Satan, the south being the mythical Coronation of the Virgin.
There are also several other early bits of architecture built into
the wall of the nave. A few yards from the Church, the doorway
of the Court Farm retains the small portion of the Preceptory,
which was fairly perfect at the end of the seventeenth century,
but of which only the gateway and one window remains.
A pleasant two miles' drive along the side of the Park conducts
the visitor back to Fairford.
2.— TO CIRENCESTER, THROUGH POULTON,
THE AMPNEYS. &c.
Fairford is left ,by the western main road, rising the hill
directly the town is left behind. A pleasant undulating road
brings us to the cross road to Meysey Hampton, lying off to the
left — if walking, its Church can be reached a little further on by
crossing one field, half-way down the next descent. The village
takes its name from the Meysey family ; Robert de Meysey,
Sheriff of the county in 1255, being then Lord' of the Manor.
The Church is cruciform, mainly Early English, with a late Dec.
chancel and centre tower. It may have been built by the Knights
Templars early in the thirteenth century, the chancel being
altered in the fourteenth. The tower arches are massive but
graceful ; the nave has lancet windows on either side, with a
plate tracery window of two lights at the western end. The
reading-desk of oak is very quaint ; it is dated ^f , and has on
each side >an and the remains of the chain which held the
iackets,
earlier book. The chancel is spacious, with a beautiful geomet-

40 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
rical east window, a graceful sedilia, and by its side a recessed
space for a tomb. The altar-piece has the Magdalen College
Lillies (to whom the living now belongs) ; on the north side being
an altar tomb with canopy, probably to one of the Meysey
family. A curious poor-box is fastened to the south wall. In
the transept is a tomb to Dr. James Vaulx and his two wives,
whose effigies each occupy a panel ; below them being their
families and an inscription in rhyme.
The next village is Pbulton, with its Church a few yards to the
left ; and beyond, the quarry from which most of the large thin
stones, which are used as fencing for gardens, &c, in this district,
is obtained, but neither are sufficient to detain the visitor. A mile
onward is Ampney St. Peter, a picturesque little village, with its
Church standing a short distance up the hill. This has an old,
low, saddle-back tower at the west end, with a three-light window
at the west end, the body of the Church being early Perp.
Further along the road, on the left, standing alone near the
brook, is the little Church of Ampney St. Mary, the village being
a mile distant. It is very picturesque in its setting of tall trees,
and has some interesting features, among them being the bell-
cote rising from the roof of the nave, and the doorway on the
north side blocked up. This Ampney is sometimes Eastbrook,
or Ashbrook ; in Domesday, Esbroc and Estbroce.
Ampney Crucis comes next, with its beautiful cruciform
Church and churchyard cross. All the Ampneys were included
in the Manors of Omenie in Doomsday, of which there were no
less than seven ; and the Church of the Holy Rood is mentioned
at an early date. The Church mostly dates from the thirteenth
century, although there are traces of earlier work. Close by is
the old manor house, which was once in the Pleydell family,
and contains a fireplace of 1625, with a beautiful ceiling to its
drawing-room. The cross was restored about 1864, when the
old head was reproduced as near as possible ; the east side has
a crucifix with S. Mary and John ; the west, S. Mary and the Holy
Child; while other single figures occupy the north and south
sides. Both churchyard and wayside crosses are fairly numerous
in this part of the country ; some of the villages have more than
one. Ashton Keynes, for instance, boasts no less than four in
various parts of it.
Nothing further of interest before Cirencester is reached,
except that we enter it by the old Roman Fossway, which leads

Lechlade, and the District around them. 41
to the Market-place ; which, with the town hall and Church, forms
one of the most complete pictures to be found in the district.
Cirencester, as Caer-cori, was an old British city of the Dobuni
tribe, then the chief of the Roman towns in this part, and the
crossing-place of two of their most important roads under the
name of Corinium, which the Saxons afterwards converted into
Corynceastre, whence its present appellation. It has been a noted
place in English history, from the time of its earliest siege until
the advent of the Prince of Orange ; and, before the dissolution,
contained an abbey with a noble Church some 245 feet long, on
the foundations of which the present Abbey house stands.
The beautiful Church of S. John the Baptist, with its lovely
porch, above which is the town hall, is the first thing to be visited
by the stranger ; and after noticing the porch, pass through the
opening in the railings by the Tower to the north door of the
Church, which is always open in the daytime, and enter. The
lofty arcade of the nave willbe the first noticeable feature, then
the fine chancel, with its side chapels and the aisles; and lastly,
the beautiful Trinity Chapel, with its memorials. It would take
too long to enter into details, but there is a Guide to Circencester
published at a small sum, which gives a great many details.
Besides the Church, the Corinium Museum is worthy a visit to
all interested in Roman Cirencester ; it is at the western end of
the town, opposite the railway station, and contains tesselated
pavements, and other finds.
A mile beyond this, on the same road (the Roman Foss Way
to Bath), is the Royal Agricultural College; and two miles
further on, at a spot half-a-mile up the canal path, to the right,
under some trees in the valley, is the head spring of the River
Thames. Another charm of Cirencester is its beautiful and extensive
park, the seat of Lord Bathurst. The house is not shown ; and
indeed its greatest beauties lie in its surroundings, but the park
is nearly always open to visitors ; and a walk as far as the Seven
Rides, or a drive to the Ten Rides and Alfred's Hall is very
charming, and a lovely view of the old town is seen from the
centre ride.
Cirencester has some good hotels, amongst them The King's
Head and The Fleece, as well as other places of refreshment ;
and to visitors a more delightful old place, or a more agreeable

42 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
isit, will not be met with. The roads everywhere in ordinary
fine weather are fairly good both for driving and cycling.
3.— TO BIBURY, AND UP THE COLN VALLEY TO THE
ROMAN VILLA AND NORTHLEACH.
Fairford is left by a turn to the right at the Retreat, Milton
end, and a pleasant road, mostly slightly rising until Quenning-
ton Green is reached, then bear to the left down the hill to Coin
St. Aldwyns. This village we have already described in a
previous chapter. Beyond the village, turn to left along the
summit level of the hill, and then, in a couple of miles, we
descend to Bibury. The Coin winds round the valley before us,
and there is one pretty peep of the Mill and Court between the
trees. Bibury village is very pretty. In one place the cottages
are dotted round a little green, shaded with trees ; and past this
is the way down to the Court, a very picturesque house, built in
1623. It stands in a lovely position, close to the river, with hills
on both sides, and the village Church close by. Bibury Church
is mainly a trans-Norman and E. E. Church, and preserves
features of both those styles. It has a late Norman doorway,
a charming trans-Norman arcade opening into the north aisle,
the lower part of the Tower being about the same date. The
chancel is Early English, with large splayed lancet Windows, a
triplet for the east Window, and more than one aumbry, besides
a quaint little Window looking on to the altar. It has a Perp.
clerestory to the nave, battlemented, and one curious round
Window, above and close to som6 lancets on the south side.
The Churchyard is beautifully kept. Bibury history dates from
about 721, when Wilfrith gave five cassates to Earl Leppa and
his daughter Beaga; in 1086, the manor was held by St. Mary's
Priory, Worcester. The advowson afterwards passed to Osney
Abbey as a peculiar, in connection with Winson, Barnsley and
Aldsworth; and being only subject to their own officer, the Bishop
and Archdeacon have no control.
Beyond the Church, the Coin runs alongside the road, over
the first bridge is the picturesque Arlington row, which has
been the subject of more than one Academy picture ; and the
cottages, trees, and river, with the well-known Swan Hotel,
and the mill, all add to the series of pictures here. The fishing
for trout, particularly in the May-fly time, is, with Fairford,
open to a small payment. And there are a fine lot of fish ; the

CIRENCESTER MARKET PLACE.

NORTHLEACH.

Photo. Taunt, Oxford.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 43
rules for catching them are as at Fairford, now the fishing
is under the same lessee. A fine spring bursts out from the
Oolite, just above the Swan, and helps considerably to swell the
river. Bibury is celebrated as the place where
"From the self-same cask,
Mild and October flow just as we ask,
In limpid Coin, where trout and minnow swarm."
And the origin of this is as follows : —
An Oxford scholar, we are told, more full of fun than money,
proposed to a former Bibury landlord to teach him, for a noble,
how to draw mild ale and strong beer from the same cask. The
offer was accepted ; and, proceeding to the cellar, the scholar
bored a hole in a full cask of ale, and desired the landlord to
stop it with his finger. Then boring another where the strong
beer was to run, the landlord was to stop that with his other
hand. The wag then left on pretence of fetching some pegs ;
and mounting his horse, off he went, leaving the landlord a
prisoner in his own cellar. The joke was certainly at the land
lord's expense ; but so many called to have the laugh, that it
turned at length in his favour by the increasing demand.
From here we get into the heart of the Cotswolds; and our
road, although mostly in the valley, rises and falls more or less.
The cornbrash of the district is well shown in the quarry we
pass on the right of the road, and then there is a charming peep
down into the valley to the little village of Ablington, with its
Manor House, the home of the late Mr. Gibbs, the author of In a
Cotswold Village "—a book which every visitor to this district
should possess. The old Manor House stands close to the road,
and looks over the Coin flowing through its grounds. It was a
manor in the time of King John, and parts of it are old ; but the
greater part of it was re-built by John Coxwell, who has left
over the porch the following inscription : —
lPXjEa© rxib®iii im cawsiE, © %®ws>,
asu jib©m c©stkiiibx am© ©©meto 1590.
The old oak in the hall came from Bibury Church. From
Ablington the road runs along near the river the mile and a-
half to Winson, where is a little late Norman Church, and then
runs down the hill to the river, crossing by the mill to the other
side of the valley for a short distance, then back again to Coin

44 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows;
Rogers. Note the pretty scene up the valley here. The village
is named from the river; and Roger of Gloucester, who being
wounded in battle, gave the manor to the monks of Gloucester
to pray for his soul. The Church is partly Norman, with
chancel, nave, and western Tower, and stands below the road
in the valley; but it is not so interesting as Coin S. Denis,
another mile beyond.
Coin S. Dennis Church, with its quaint Norman Tower, and
Perp. upper story, nestles down in the valley, with houses half-
hidden in trees around it. Its interior is very picturesque. The
Tower arches were both at one time round-headed, with Norman
shafts and caps ; and the chancel had a groined ceiling springing
from columns in each corner, which still exist. A tomb on the
choir wall has these quaint lines : —
" Heare lyes my body, fast inclosed within this watery ground ;
But my precius soule in it cannot nowe be founde.
But at the doome and generall judgment day
My Saviour Christ will bid me rise and come awaye ;
Although! i never married, we are to any man
As it my soule and body to my Saviour, God and man —
Shall then be knit."
"Here lieth the body of Joahne Burton, minister, late of
Baginton, who finished this mortal life the two-and-twentieth
day of September, Ano : dni., 1631."
The little hamlet of Fossbridge comes next, and the Roman
Fossway is crossed leading southwards to Cirencester, and
northwards to Northleach.
There is a capital hotel here which forms a good half-way
house to stop at before taking the side road to the Roman Villa,
which lies some two or three miles up in the woods, or the
village of Chedworth, which can be reached quickly by the field
path. No one should miss the Roman Villa, which is, perhaps,
the most perfect remains of a large residence of that date in the
country. It was discovered in 1866, and consists of a series of
chambers ranged around three sides of a square, the fourth
being a lovely view down the valley of the Coin. Some of the
buildings, with their beautiful tessellated pavements, are enclosed
in covered houses, and the finds are collected into a museum —
the whole series being interesting in every way. A large area of
walls and columns have been excavated and cleared, and the
ground between laid out in grass. A spring gushes out in one
corner just as it did centuries ago; and the hot baths, with their

Lechlade, and the District around them. 45
hypocaust, are so nearly perfect that there is little difficulty in
realising the manner of their use. A detailed guide is sold by
the caretaker, who will also provide hot water and tea things,
but all other materials for a picnic must be taken by the visitor.
About four miles or a little more along the Fossway, will take
us to Northleach, once one of the flourishing towns of the wool
trade when the Cotswolds were the centre of that staple industry ;
and in the coaching days, when its inns were the changing place
for the forty or more coaches which daily ran through it, now
quiet and clean, it has little beyond its beautiful Church to call
for notice. It consists mainly of one long street running along
the valley, with a fine open market square, where at one time
stood an old Market House and Cross, destroyed within the
last century. The joke of the town is " Its gaol at one end and
workhouse at the other, while the centre is filled up with
starvation itself."
Here is a Cotswold rhyming description : —
"In a Cotswold vale a little town stands
In the midst of a wealth of fine fertile lands ;
A Roman road passes by well within hail ;
And close to it stands the unfrequented gaol.
From the west to the east, on both sides the valley,
The main street winds on with scarcely an alley.
To where, at the other end, standing in state,
Is the house for all those, who deserted by fate,
Have no home of their own, so perchance contrives
To exist in the Workhouse the rest of their lives.
To help to further unravel our riddle,
Starvation, we're told, is found in the middle ;
But to make the tale short we no longer will preach,
For the place is well-known by its name of Northleach."
The Church is a stately pile, mainly Perp., and was nearly
re-built 1450-60, possibly on the site of a smaller Norman edifice
which had itself been re-modelled at some time, as the western
Tower arch shows. Many of the windows, and particularly the
large eastern one, are very graceful. The chancel is large, with
chapels on either side, and is earlier than the nave ; it was built
by John Fortey Clothier, 1450. The nave has an arcade of five
lofty bays, with clerestory above, the beauty of which is shown
when viewed from either of the hills, and the shape and size of
the columns and arches are not unlike the church of Chipping
Campden, another of the Cotswold towns — while two lofty
aisles run parallel the whole length of the nave, terminating in

46 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
chapels beyond, the south or Dutton aisle having the remains
of a once magnificent reredos. There are nine fine brasses in
the centre of the nave and chancel floor besides others, most of
them to wool merchants and benefactors.
The south porch is very large, both interior as well as exterior
being richly ornamented. Its roof is groined, and above the
doorway remain representations of the Trinity and the Holy
Family. Over the porch is a parvise, with a fine fireplace; and
above is a small bell cot, with a seat for the ringer.
The font is very quaint, with angelic figures supporting the
basin, while the base is represented as crushing Satan, a most
curious and unusual feature.
The Tower is one of the features of the Church, and a centre
piece in every view of the town. It has four stories, with
battlements at the top ; the upper Windows and niches being
richly ornamented with crockets and pinnacles. Note the
wondrous grouping of the edifice in the rich setting of trees
around the Churchyard ; it forms one of the noblest ideals of a
Church even among the grand churches of Gloucestershire.
There are a few old houses in the town ; in one, Charles I. is
said to have stayed a night, and the hotels are the Wheatsheaf
and the Union Inn.
The history of the place dates back to a grant of lands by
^Ethelred to the Abbey of Glo'ster; and to the monks, in 1220,
was also granted the market with licence to hold a court on the
festival of S. Peter and S. Paul, the patron saints of the Church.
From Northleach the return journey can be made through
Easington, and the Lech Valley to Coin St. Aldwyns again,
or through the little old village of Aldsworth, and then to Coin
and on to Fairford.
4.— FAIRFORD TO KEMPSFORD, CASTLE EATON, CRICKLADE,
AND BACK THROUGH DOWN AMPNEY AND
MARSTON MEYSEY.
The greater part of this drive is in the Thames Valley ; and
leaving Fairford by the London road, the turn to the right beyond
the station leads to Whelford and Kempsford. At the former we
cross the Coin, but it has nothing to notice, and Kempsford is
soon reached. The interest of the village lies round the Church
and site of the old mansion, of which the river terrace and part of
one room — called the Gunners' room — is still left, by the Thames-

Lechlade, and the District around them. 47
side. The horse-shoe is also on the north door of the Church,
which recalls the story that when Henry, Duke of Lancaster,
who resided here, was leaving through grief at the loss of his
son, who was drowned, his horse dropped the shoe, which was
nailed to the Church door in remembrance. Strange to say, a
horse-shoe with a similar story is to be found in the centre of
Lancaster town.
Kempsford dates centuries before the Lancasters held the
manor, for about the year 800, Ethelmund, chief of the Wiccii,
who were the inhabitants of Gloucestershire, passed on horse
back through the ford of Kynemeresford to fight Wearistan,
chief of the Walsati, who were the inhabitants of Wilts. Both
the chiefs were killed, but the Walsati gained the victory. The
manor before the Conquest was the property of Harold, and
was given by William to one of his Norman soldiers. It
then passed to the family of Chaworth, and from them by
marriage to the Duke of Lancaster; who, in 1335, presented
it to the Church. At the dissolution it was granted to the
Thynnes, one of whom re-built the mansion in the reign of
James I. This was sold to Lord Coleraine, who, by extravagance,
was reduced to pull down the house, which was sold for the value
of the materials ; the trees were also cut down, the gardens
dismantled, and everything allowed to go to ruin.
The Church dates back to Norman times, and the north door
has chevron work around its tympanum, and ornamental
columns with carved caps. There are also round-headed,
splayed windows in the nave. The glory of the Church is its
Tower of fourteenth century work, with corner buttresses
which terminate in pinnacles ; it has arches in the interior,
which are lofty and narrow, and a lantern decorated with
bosses, frescoes, arms, &c. The side windows of the Tower
are remarkable for their size. Above the Norman walls of the
nave is a Perp. clerestory, and, panelled oak roof with arched
tie-beams. The old mansion stood between the Church and the
river, with the gardens covering the ground on which the
Vicarage now stands.
Back again up the village, past the inn, The George, and half-
a-mile onward brings us to the turn to the left over the canal,
which leads to Castle Eaton. The picturesque old bridge, which
once crossed the Thames, is gone, and replaced by the plainest
iron structure on the river. " The grete ruins of the Lord

48 Fairford Church, with its Celebrated Windows ;
Zouche's castelle" exist no more, but the Church is worth the
short detour. It is an early building, with lancet windows to its
chancel, a slightly later nave, with a fine Sancte bell-turret above
it, a round-headed south door, and E. E. font and Perp. tower,
standing on a little rising ground close to the stream, from which
it makes a charming picture. Nothing else to notice but the
village inn, with its garden running down to the river's brink.
It is some four miles to Cncklade, a small Wiltshire town,
with its one broad street, new railway station, and two old
Churches, both beautiful in their way ; the upper one, S.
Sampson, with a splendid lofty Tower; the lower one, S. Mary,
little, and quiet, and restful. Both have decorated crosses in their
churchyards, the one of S. Mary's still retaining the figures in
its head. S. Sampson is a handsome cruciform Church, with
broad nave and aisles ; its chancel arches beneath the Tower
resembles Kempsford. Like that Church also, this Tower has a
lantern of considerable height, with fan tracery roof, decorated
with shields having armorial bearings, among which are those
of the Nevilles, Earls of Warwick. The Tower has bold, lofty
pinnacles, the top part being panelled with an open parapet.
Cricklade is on the Roman Ermine Street, and its name is
derived from the British Cerriglad — a stone ford. This place is
twice mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle, in 905 where it says :
" This year the army in East Anglia rebelled and over-ran all the
land of Mercia until they came to Creeca-gelade, where they
forded the Temese, &c.;" and in 1016 King Cnut came with 160
ships, and Alderman Edric with him, over the Thames into
Mercia, at Cricklade.
Cricklade used to send two representatives to Parliament
under a charter granted by Edward II.; but the town becoming
a close borough, it was partially disenfranchised, and forms now
the centre of a district returning but one member. Here the
Churn joins the Thames, and this is looked upon as the highest
point on the river, even in spring, to begin the favourite boating
trip downwards to London. There are two hotels, the White
Hart and White Horse. The road crosses the Thames at the
bottom of the street, and leads onward to the next bridge, under
which runs the Churn.
The Thames and Severn Canal is close to the road, and the
next turn to the right, after crossing its bridge, leads through
the village of Latton to its cruciform Church.

Lechlade, and the District around them. 49
Latton is said to have been a Roman settlement, its Church
has a (South) Norman door and chancel arch, but nave of later
style ; the chancel and the bottom part of the western Tower is
also Norman.
Down Ampney, a short distance further on, has an E. E.
Church, erected by the Knights Templars, with several fine
monuments to the Hungerford family; and an old Tudor
house, built by Sir A. Hungerford, which has been modernised.
The road leads partly through the village, and then turns south
again, running over the boundary from Wilts into Gloucester
shire, and back into Wilts again before Marston Meysey is
reached. Marston Meysey , Manor formerly belonged to the See of
Salisbury in Queen Elizabeth's reign. The Bishop of Salisbury's
house and grounds were surrendered to the Queen ; who, in
exchange, gave the Bishop this manor. The present Church
replaces an older one ; it is a graceful structure, built of the stone
of the district. The family of Lane, who assisted Charles II.
in his ride to Bristol, belonged to this parish ; and it is believed
that the King passed through, if he did not stop in Marston.
From here, about three miles along a pleasant road in summer
will land the visitor into the town, and thus complete the round
of walks and rides round Fairford.

LECHLADE,
AND THE DISTRICT AROUND IT.

" Likewise clere Colne and lively Ler.he
Adown from Cotswold' s plains,
At Lechlade linking hands,
Support the mother of great Thames." — Drayton.
"-|"J EECE, Lecelade, Lachlade, Leachlade, or Lechlade, is one
I ( of those quiet little Gloucestershire towns which seem to
" have outlived their times ; and now, in the calm repose of
maturity, are enjoying the past, being without the unrest and
fierce competition of the busy outside world. Situated on rising
ground by the river Thames, which here is crossed by a couple of
stone bridges, it has numerous advantages from its situation ; and
its lofty Church Tower and graceful spire forms a fitting centre
piece to the many charming scenes to be found in each direction.
It is undoubtedly an old town, and by the monkish historians is
associated with Cricklade, some ten miles higher up the river, as
being the sites of the British or Saxon Universities, which

INGLESHAM ROUND HOUSE, &c.

LECHLADE FROM THE RIVER. Photographs by Taunt & Co. Oxford.

Lechlade, and the District around it. 51
Leland also refers to in his Scriptoribus Britannicus, when he
says that King Alfred had two towns on the banks of the Isis ;
one Greekislade, where Greek was taught ; and the other Latine-
lade, where scholars were instructed in Latin and the art of
medicine. But we must not take this as gospel, as there is little
doubt that Lechlade is simply the place where the Leach, or
Lech, empties itself; and there is no confirmation that we can find
of the Cricklade- Lechlade legend. Lechlade is a very pleasant
place, in the summer particularly ; and its situation at the head
of the navigation of the Thames, with the many objects of
interest around, and the easy way it can be reached, gives it a
number of advantages. There are very good hotels, shops equal
to all wants — boating, fishing, hunting, cycling, driving, and
walking — with something to see or visit on nearly every route.
Its population is about 1,200, with an area of 3,785 acres. The
railway station is a short mile from the Market-place, and a 'bus
from the New Inn meets each train.
Lechlade, in the time of the Norman Doomsday, was held by
Henry de Ferrers, who came over with the Conqueror, having
been previously held by Lord Siward in the time of King
Edward. There were fifteen hides taxed, but the King granted
that six hides should be quit. "In the manor are four plough lands,
twenty-nine villeins, ten bordars, and one stranger who holds the
land of one villein. There are seventeen serfs, and three mills
of 30s., and a fishery of 200 eels, less twenty-five. The meadows
are worth 147s., besides hay for the cattle."
The manor continued in the family of Ferrers for a number of
years ; and at length came, in 1205, into the possession of
Isabella, the sister of the previous owner. She was the second
wife of Roger Mortimore ; and on his death was deprived of the
manor for a short time, but it was again restored to her. This
lady, we are told, was of good and blameless life; and after the
death of her lord she placed a number of religious persons at
Lechlade to pray for the soul of her lord and for all people, and
she gave them plenty of good lands and the rents belonging
thereto. Afterwards she was buried in the chapel of the Nunnery
which she had founded. This was the foundation of the hospital
and priory of St. John, to which we shall again refer. After
Isabella's death the manor reverted to the Crown, and was
granted to Richard, Earl of Cornwall, as part payment of the
dower of Senchia, his wife. It afterwards passed into the hands

52 Lechlade, and the District around it.
of Hugh Despencer, Edmond, Earl of Kent, and his successors,
and Richard, Duke of York. It was made part of the dower of
Catherine of Arragon, and remained in her possession until her
death, then passed through several hands, among them being the
Bathursts, the Wheates, and the Milwards, the present owner
being J. W. Prior- Wandesforde, Esq., whose picturesque manor
house was re-built by George Milward, the previous owner.
Old manor houses have often a charm which new ones lack,
but this is not the case with Lechlade Manor ; which, although
re-built within the memory of the present generation, was so
tastefully designed that in many things it is superior to the older
house that stood upon its site. It is in the best Elizabethan
style, looking out on two sides over a spacious well-timbered
park ; and standing away from the road, embodies the very
acme of quiet restfulness, broken only by the cooing of the wood-
pigeon, and the endless caw, caw of the rooks.
S. John's hospital and priory stand close to the bridge of
that name, a short half-mile down the river, and just below the
first lock on the Thames named after it. . As we have noted, it
was founded first by Isabella de Ferrers as a nunnery, and then
augmented by her second husband, Peter Fitzherbert, the occa
sion of the foundation being the building of the bridge over
which the road from London to Gloucester and the west passes.
It then formed a priory, attached to which were a number of lay
brethren, who were engaged in keeping up the bridge and the
causeway which led to it. Henry III. confirmed the grant to
the brethren ; but in the time of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and
Senchia, his wife, the foundation was enlarged, and became a
Priory of Black Canons, who followed the rule of S. Augustine,
receiving also the patronage of the Church at Lechlade. It was
then attached to the Abbey of Hales, Gloucestershire.
In 1338, frontage was granted to the Priory for repairing the
bridge " by reason that the same was so broken down and ruinous
as to be dangerous to persons passing over it;" and again, in
1389, the same grant was made ; but in 1472 the Priory was dis
solved, and the buildings began to be demolished ; the place was
looked upon as a quarry, part going possibly to help to enlarge
the Parish Church. ' Out of the funds, some went in the endow
ment of the Chantry of the Virgin in the Church ; the site, &x.,
afterwards being granted to the College of S. Nicholas, at
Wallingford Castle, who received the rents, &c, and were

Lechlade, and the District around it. 53
answerable for the repairs of the bridge. The Church seems to
have been removed about 1 549, after the dissolution of the college;
and on the site, about 1775, a workhouse was built, which was
removed some time about 1795. Within the last few years the
present owner of the site of the Priory (Mr. Wentworth
Sturgeon) has made a series of excavations, resulting in the
finding of a number of very interesting remains. In one part
no less than forty skeletons of monks, in a perfect state of preser
vation, and with teeth still white, were found, and about 100 feet
from these, the single skeleton of a woman, which may have been
that of the foundress, or the Prioress of the Convent. Besides
these, coins and tiles, with numerous worked stones, were dis
covered, and are now preserved in one of the rooms of the
Bungalow, forming a veritable museum of the most interesting
character. Leland, in 1534, says: "At the very end of S.John's
bridge, in ripa ulteriori on the right hond I saw a chapelle in a
Medow, and great enclosures of stone wattles. Here was a
Priory of Blake Chanons, of the patronage of the Duke of
Clarence of York."
THE CHURCH.
The Church stands in the angle of the Market Square, with
its spire overlooking both main streets, besides making more
than one complete picture from the towing path, with the river
and its rushy banks as a pretty foreground. It is a beautiful
Early Perpendicular edifice, built about 1470, by Conrad Ney,
then Vicar, with the assistance of the members of the Priory.
What the earlier Church was like we have no record, or even
where it stood ; probably it was razed to the ground when the
present edifice was built, and might have occupied nearly the
same spot. This is dedicated to S. Lawrence. It has a short
chancel, a beautiful nave, with arcades to north and south aisles,
a bay for the lady chapel, and the chapel of S. Blaise at the
easterly end. The chancel arch is bold and good ; but the east
window of later date is debased and low, although partly relieved
on the exterior by the open parapet and its pinnacles, the centre
one of which has a figure of S. Lawrence. A chaste modern
screen has been built across the chancel arch, and continued on
both sides of the sanctuary, where on either side another arch
carries the thrust of the nave across the aisles; and from the
chancel, before the screen was erected, four arches springing from

54 Lechlade, and the District around it.
each principal column were shown, forming a double arcade of
very graceful appearance. A new oak reredos, of neat design;
by Rogers, of Oxford, has been lately added by J. W. Prior-
Wandesforde, Esq., the present owner of the Manor, as a
memorial to his son.
The Tower arch is narrow and lofty, and the Tower externally
rises by diminishing stages to a parapet surmounted with four
pinnacles, from the centre of which a slender octagonal spire
springs, ornamented with a double band of quatrefoils. The
Windows in the Tower, as well as those in the aisles, have
geometrical tracery, and the Church, as a whole, is most graceful
in its proportions, and a gem of its class and date. Some parts
of it have undergone a change since they were first built ; the
addition of the clerestory, the east Window, and the flattened
roofs evidently dating a century later than some other parts of
the structure ; and the Tudor rose is introduced among the
ornamentation, thus giving a key to the date. There are only
two brasses, one of John Twinyhoe, merchant, the founder of the
Chapel of S. Blaise ; the other being that of John Towensend,
merchant and woolman, who died in 1458. There are some
fragments of stained glass in the clerestory Windows, with the
badges of Edward IV. and his mother, the Duchess of York ;
and a couple of monuments, one against the north wall of the
Church to Mistress Ann Simons; the other, in the south chapel,
belongs to the Coxeter family. A curious carved stone, possibly
the tympanum of an old doorway, is inserted in the wall of the
north aisle ; and in the Vicarage garden, built into the wall, is
the figure of a crowned woman, whose breasts are pierced with
a sword, probably an image of our Lady of Pity. Shelley, in 181 5,
wrote the following beautiful
STANZAS IN LECHLADE CHURCHYARD.
"The wind has swept from the wide atmosphere
Each vapour that obscured the sunset's ray,
And pallid evening twines its beaming hair
In duskier braides around the languid eyes of day.
Silence and twilight, unbeloved of men,
Creep hand in hand from yon obscurest glen.
"They breathe their spells towards the departing day,
Encompassing .the earth, air, stars, and sea;
Light, sound, and motion own the potent sway,
Responding to the charm with its own mystery.

Lechlade, and the District around it. 55
The winds are still, or the dry, Church-tower grass
Knows not their gentle motions as they pass.
"Thou, too, aerial pile ! whose pinnacles
Point from one shrine like pyramids of fire,
Obey'st in silence their sweet solemn spells,
Clothing in hues of heaven thy dim and distant spire ;
Around whose lessening and invisible height
Gather among the stars the clouds of night.
"The dead are sleeping in their sepulchres ;
And, mouldering as they sleep, a thrilling sound,
Half sense, half thought, among the darkness stirs,
Breathed from their wormy beds alHiving things around ;
And mingling wjth the-still night and mute sky,
Its awful hush is felt inaudibly.
"Thus solemnised and softened, death is mild,
And terrorless as this serenest night :
Here could I hope, like some inquiring child,
Sporting on graves, that death did hide from human sight
Sweet secrets, or beside its breathless sleep, >
That loveliest dreams perpetual watch did keep."
There is little to see in Lechlade besides the Church, the
river, and the bridges. There is one old stone house (sixteenth
century) in the main street, which forms the Swan Inn, and
another rather picturesque old building, shaded by a large tree,
and with an old-fashioned summer-house built out to the road,
called Sherbourne House, at the bottom of the turn leading from
the street higher up.
( The bridge over the river, shown in our first view, used to be
called Ha'penny Bridge, from that amount of toll paid by foot
passengers crossing, and by its side is Lechlade wharf. It is a
pleasant walk up the towing path to Inglesham Round House,
where both the Thames and Severn Canal, and the Coin, join
the Thames. The latter we have noticed before at Fairford and
other places, but the former is met with for the first time. The
old round house, with the lock bridge close by, the Thames
running under the wooden bridge, and thlEf waving poplars -behind,
makes a pretty picture ; and it is possible to get a quiet tea in
the summer in thcgarden of the round house, or be ferried across
to Inglesham Church : and, indeed, this is the ple^santest way
there, unless you have a boat of your own. The Thames and
Severn Canal was commenced in 1782, and opened in 1789. It
reaches from Inglesham, to the Stroud Navigation, which con-

56

Lechlade, and the District around it.

tinues it until the Ship Canal and the Severn is reached. Years
ago it was looked upon as a great engineering feat, one of its
difficulties being the piercing of a tunnel through Saperton Hill,
a length of near two miles, and the lowering of the levels through
the Stroud Valley, through lock after lock, is one of its picturesque
features. But it has fallen into a bad way ; there is no navigation
now, and pleasufe boats are not even allowed upon its waters
as they used to be, to reach Cricklade and above ; its summit
level, near Cirencester, is often dry; and the pump at Thames
Head, which used to force some 3,000,000 of gallons of Thames

water into it, is quiet and still. It is a relic of the past, has out
lived its usefulness, and is completely eclipsed in these days of
locomotion by the adjacent railways which have stolen away its
traffic. It had its day, arid even in its decadence it possessed a
certain pleasantness in contrast to the old tortuous river when
one wanted to go above Lechlade ; and it is a pity that no one
should be allowed to traverse it as in the days gone by, on con
dition that they take the risk entirely on themselves.*
We have mentioned Inglesham Church ; and no one fond of
* The canal is now (1902) undergoing repairs in places, and will probably again be
made navigable.

Lechlade, and the District around it. 57
the original antique should, when visiting Lechlade, omit to pay
it a visit ; a pretty way being by boat up the river, and getting
the farmer to allow you to pass through the farm, just beyond
which the old Church stands. It dates probably from 1180; and
in 1205 was given by King John to the monks of Beaulieu, in
the New Forest. A little quaint old Church, only forty-nine feet
long, with north and south aisles, trans-Norman and Early
English details, and later inserted Windows, a quaint little bell-
cot at the west end, and a curious carved stone by the side of the
porch representing the Virgin and Child, with a hand above them
in the form of blessing, and the letters MARIA ; the entrance
doorway and the details of the arcade are among the things to
be noticed. An hour glass is fixed to the pillar of the north
arcade. The outside carving is supposed by some to have been
brought from S. John's Priory : but we see no reason why it
should not have been the work of the monks of Beaulieu, who
completed the Church, and were far more wealthy and likely to
create such a piece of work than a poor hospital such as S. John's,
Lechlade was, at the early date the sculpture is supposed to have
been executed. The usual way to Inglesham is by the road
running from Lechlade to Highworth, about a mile over the
bridge, turning off to the right,1 a pretty view of Lechlade is seen
from the road. HOTELS. LECHLADE-THE NEW INN.
AT ST. JOHN'S BRIDGE — THE TROUT.
At Mr. J. E. Powell's, draper and stationer, in the Market
Square, Guides and Views of Lechlade and its surroundings
can be obtained, and the Post-office is a door or two below the
New Inn.

WALKS AND DRIVES FROM LECHLADE.
LECHLADE TO FARINGDON, THE WHITE HORSE, AND
WAYLAND SMITH'S CAVE.
Leave Lechlade by the London road, past the site of the
Priory of S. John, and the Trout Inn, which latter was before
1704 known by the sign of S. John the Baptist's Head, and
may have been the guest house of the Priory. Then over S.

58 Lechlade, and the District around it.
John's bridge, noticing the pretty picture formed by the first
lock on the Thames, with the winding river and the picturesque
Lechlade spire.
A short distance beyond, where the river nearly touches the
road, stood the store-houses of the early Thames navigation, before
the canal was formed ; when the seven-ton boats brought cheese,
corn, &c, the products of the country side, from Cricklade and
above, down to here, where they were re-loaded into larger boats
and sent to London. We then pass Buscot village. Its Church
lies a little way back from the road, arid, has no very interesting
feature beyond its trans-Norman chancel arch.
It is a pleasant drive by Buscot Park, the house of which lies
hidden beyond the trees on the hill, stone-built and modern, but
in good taste ; then past a few picturesque roadside cottages, and
Faringdon Park is reached, with the hill that rises into the town.
Faringdon is an interesting old town, with a picturesque
Market Place, and fine Early English cruciform Church, built
by the monks of Beaulieu, the Tower of which suffered when the
spire was beaten down by the Roundheads in the time of the
Civil War.
The Saxon kings had a palace here, where Edward the Elder
died in 925, and a castle was built in the time of Stephen.
Cromwell attacked Faringdon House in the Civil War, but it
was successfully defended by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon, and was
one of the last places held for the King. The old house was
situated near the Church, in a line with the beautiful avenue of
trees still existing, but was replaced by the present house, built
by Sir Robert Pye in the seventeenth century. From Faringdon
" Folly," the hill which rises close to the east of the town, an
extensive series of views can be obtained all over the upper
Thames Valley and the Vale of White Horse, which well repays
the toil of climbing up to the clump of trees that crowns it.
There are a couple of capital hotels in the town, the Crown and
the Bell ; and the station is on a branch line to Uffington, where
it joins the main G.W.R.
From Faringdon, the road runs past Little Coxwell and down
the Ringdale Hills (from which a fine view is obtained), into the
Vale of White Horse, which takes its name from the white horse
cut on the side of the highest part of the hill above Uffington.
At Great Coxwell stands an immense stone-built barn, once
belonging to the monks of Beaulieu ; and a British village was

ST JOHN'S LOCK. LECHLADE IN THE DISTANCE.

1

'"^liii-'irtitfSB

; JPjBfc^ ¦¦^f^^'^tSt •ttt^n^^'i'* 'WWrfir *-

THE WHITE HORSE FROM RINGDALE HILLS. Photo. Taunt & Co. Oxford.

Lechlade, and the District around it. 59
discovered in a spinney near the Ringdale Hills some few years
ago, but unfortunately is not being preserved. Through a little
village called Fernham, and we wind along the fruitful vale, under
the G.W.R., and over the Berks and Wilts Canal, soon reaching
Uffington, with its elegant Early English Church built by the
monks of Abingdon Abbey in its early days ; then along pleasant,
tree-bordered roads, and up the rise to Dragon Hill, which leads
to the White Horse and the camp above it, called Uffington
Castle. It is rather a climb up the hill, but a stop can be made
at- the Tumulus, the fabled place where Saint George slew the
Dragon, the spilling of whose blood has prevented the grass
growing on the top ; and from here we get a peep of the manger
and the horse, but the best view is obtained from the other side
of the manger looking up it. The White Horse was made by
cutting away the turf and soil down to the chalk, and is generally
thought to be the record of the great battle of iEscesdune fought
between the Saxons under iElfred and iEthelred ; but probably
it dates many years before this from British times, and much
more resembles the hor§e on the gold coins of Cunobelin than
it does the banner of the Saxon King. But whenever it was
carved, it is of the greatest interest, and forms a landmark
for many miles. Above it is the great camp called Uffington
Castle, of oval form, probably also British, and connected with
the Horse in its earliest association. It is some 700 feet long by
500 feet wide.
Past it runs the British Icknield, or Ridge-way; a grass-grown
road, which reaches for many miles along the Chilterns and the
Berkshire Hills ; and a little more than a mile west along
this road we reach Wayland Smith's cave, a tumulus, or pos
sibly an underground dwelling of a race of pigmies, like those
who occupied similar structures in the North of England and
Scotland. There are a number of immense stones, apparently
placed on the ground in an arranged order; and these were
covered by others which at some time have been thrown from
their bearings, with the exception of one, still remaining in
situ, covering a kind of small chamber, to which both the other
passages lead. The cave is immortalised in Sir Walter Scott's
Kenilworth, and is mentioned as a landmark in the Chronicles
of A bingdon, a.d. 955.
Strange to relate, we are informed by an old inhabitant that
there is, in Upper Ashdown Wood, another cave, or underground

60 Lechlade, and the District around it.
dwelling of the Wayland Smith class ; but up to the present we
have not been able to obtain from the Countess of Craven (the
owner) leave to explore it. The Coles' Pits, near Faringdon,
Wayland Smith's cave, and now this newer discovery, may, if
followed up, lead to an immense amount of light being thrown on
the interesting subject of the small race who are supposed to
have inhabited these places during the stone age ; and in Scot
land, where facilities have been given, considerable information
has already been gained. We shall yet hope that Lady Craven
will, in good time, allow the search to be made.
This is a capital place for a pic-nic, but take everything you
may want with you. The way back can be made through
Woolstone, or Compton Beauchamp and Longcot ; but all the
roads down the hill are very rough, and particularly so after
heavy rains. LECHLADE TO HIGHWORTH, &c.
Over the Thames by the Ha'penny Bridge, and along the
causeway, which in the winter leads through flooded meadows,
past Inglesham Church and farm, and then over the Cole into
Inglesham village. For some distance Highworth Tower stands
up on the highest part of the hill boldly and seemingly solitary ;
but as we approach, it disappears behind the hill, and we do not see
it again until we reach the town. Highworth is a quaint old town,
and was once governed by Mayor and Aldermen. Its High
Street has several old houses ; but the principal attraction is the
fine cruciform Church, with its aisles and chapels, and western
Tower. The chancel has a large five-light lancet Window, a
restoration, and is earlier than the nave. The columns of the
arcade are very plain,' but on the whole the interior is striking.
The general style of the Church is Early Perp., but there are
traces of older work ; one very quaint one, a tympanum over the
north door of the chancel. The hotels are the Saracen's Head
and the King and Queen.
Leaving Highworth by the Faringdon road, a short two miles
will bring the visitor to Coleshill, with its house, the seat of the
Bouverie family, looking out from amid the trees on the hill.
The Church, like Highworth, has a western Tower, a nave with
arcade on the north side, the Pleydell Chapel belonging to the
great house on the south, and the queerest arrangement of a
gallery overlooking it, formed from the parvise of the porch.

Lechlade, and the District around it. 61
There are one or two very good Windows, but that to the east
is in the shape of a quatrefoil, and is possibly part of the restor
ation of 1830, when the Pleydell tombs were "restored and
altered," as we read on one of them, which has recumbent
figures upon it of Sir  Pleydell, Sheriff of London, arid his
lady. There is also a long geneaology of the family upon a brass
in the chapel. A cross stands on the green in front of the Church.
A road turns off in the village, leading to Buscot, and by this
Lechlade can be again reached, or the stiff hill can be climbed,
and the road through Faringdon taken. If the latter, the large
circular camp of Badbury Hill lies a mile on the left ; and soon
after passing this, a turn on the right leads to Great Coxwell,
where is one of the finest barns in the country, built by the
monks of Beaulieu to receive their tythes. It is stone built, of
immense size, with the roof supported by massive beams, so
well arranged that, although they have existed some 500 years,
they bid fair to last as long again. A pleasant road from here
leads down the hill into Faringdon, which we have described in
the previous chapter. LECHLADE TO BURFORD, &c.
Leaving Lechlade by the northern road, we pass, on the right,
Lechlade Manor, a modern stone house, but a very picturesque
one, in the Elizabethan style, standing in its own park, a short dis
tance from the road. It is now the seat of J . W. Prior- Wandesforde,
Esq. Beyond, on the left, is the windmill and tank, which
supplies the town with water ; and then we pass close by Lech
lade station, from whence trains run to Fairford on the one hand,
and Oxford and beyond on the other. Nothing to note, beyond
the crossing of the river Lech, which gives its name to Lechlade,
a good hard road soon allows us to reach Broughton Poggs, or
Pogis, with its Early Church, which may be visited by turning
down to the left just as the village is reached. It has a large
square massive Tower, with baluster Windows in the upper
part, of the supposed pre-Norman type ; long and short work up
the corners, and a saddle-back roof, while in the body of the
Church are plate tracery and lancet Windows, all telling of its
early date. Filkins, its fellow village, a short distance on, has,
in contrast, a new Church by Street, fairly in harmony with its
surroundings. The road is very pleasant where it passes through the spinneys

62 Lechlade, and the District around it.
of Bradwell Grove, the seat of W. H. Fox, Esq., and a mile or
two on we cross the main road from Gloucester to London, and
quickly begin the sharp descent of the Burford High Street.
Burford is a charming old town, with its long, wide street
running from the top to the bottom of the hill ; its beautiful
Church dating back to Norman times, and exhibiting specimens
of nearly every English style of architecture ; its Priory, once
the seat of the Speaker Lenthall ; and the quaint old Tolsey,
with many another old house dotted here and there among the
stone-built dwellings. A whole day can well be spent here, and
at the Bull, the Lamb, or the Lenthall Temperance Hotel,
accommodation may be found. Street says of the Church :
"There is, in my opinion, no Church in the whole diocese of
Oxford which exceeds it in beauty and architectural interest. It
is not only that in scale it is grander than most parish Churches,
but also that in architectural detail it is singularly rich and
beautiful. In Oxfordshire, where we see such Churches as those
of Dorchester, Witney, Bampton, and Bloxham, it is no slight
thing to say that Burford is, on the whole, more interesting than
any of them." Pass first into the churchyard, making your way
to the south-east corner, by the Windrush, for here you get the
most complete view of the edifice. Notice the charming way its
beautiful Norman Tower rises out of the varied outline of the
chancel and chapels below, topped by the lofty slender spire ;
which, although centuries later, harmonises perfectly with the
earlier work. There are few more perfect pictures of any Church,
and there does not seem a single point anywhere for the eye to
condemn. Then hark back round the churchyard, along the
southern facade ; note the aisle and the two chapels, and then the
entrance porch, with its mutilated figures, the Sylvester aisle
beyond ; and at the western end of the nave beyond, the beauti
ful Norman doorway, with its triple receding arches ornamented
with chevrons and beak heads. Then pass into the interior,
under the south porch, and go to the west end of the nave, where
a lofty arcade on either side leads the eye to the low massive
arch of the Norman times, and the immense abutment of the
Tower. Note the quaint chapel, or shrine of S. Peter, in the bay
of the nave ; and then walk into the chancel, looking up into the
Tower as you pass, to note the Norman arcade. In the chancel
is a rich sedilia ; and, at the east end, canopied niches, lately
restored. The organ occupies a great part of Bartholomew's

Lechlade, and the District around it. 63
aisle ; and westward, the south transept, or Legare chapel — the
chapel of St. Thomas a. Becket — raised on a crypt, leads on to the
Sylvester aisle, as the great south-western portion of the Church
is named. It was originally a separate lady chapel, but added
to the Church by the Perp. arcade. In this chapel Cromwell's
cavalry horses were stabled ; and some of the Levellers who were
defeated at Burford by Cromwell, were shot by him against the
wall at the western end of the churchyard, which still retains
the bullet marks made on that occasion; and the font has the
inscription, rudely cut into the lead: "Anthonye Sedley, 1649,
prisner," by one of them.
The north transept is known as the Bellfounders' aisle, from
being the resting-place of Neale, a noted local bell-founder ; and
beyond it is the Tanfield aisle, containing an elaborate monu
ment to Sir Lawrence Tanfield, who held the Priory House 1625.
The Priory is at the bottom of the turning leading out of the
High Street, near the bottom, to the left. Take no notice of the
trespass board if the gate is open, walk in. Before you, you will
find a picturesque Elizabethan-looking mansion ; which, however,
is not the complete house as enlarged by Lenthall, but was
practically re-built with the old material in 1808, on a smaller
scale. The E-shaped mansion which before existed is now gone,
although the idea of the wings was preserved ; and the chapel,
with its doorway exhibiting the burning bush, was preserved,
and has undergone a certain amount of restoration under the
present owner. We cannot spare space here for its history,
which will be found in our illustrated volume, The Windings of
the Windrush ; and illustrations will also be found in the pretty
booklet, The Laughing Windrush. Views of the Church, town,
and Priory, and the neighbouring Churches, &c, can be obtained
from Miss Walters, next to the Bull Hotel ; or from ourselves,
at 34, High Street, Oxford. Besides the Priory, there is worthy
of notice the old Bear Inn, just at the corner of the road leading
to the Priory, more than one old gateway opening on to the main
street ; the Tolsey, or old town hall, now used as a reading-room ;
an old three-gabled house opposite, with barge boards ; and a fine
later Carolean house in Witney Street. At the bottom of the
town, the Windrush is crossed by a fine old bridge ; and from the
hill on the Shipton road a fine general view of the Church and
town is to be seen.
On the return journey, make a detour at Bradwell Grove by

64 Lechlade, and the District around
taking the road turning off to Kencott, Broadwell, and Langford;
each village, as well as little Faringdon, having a very interesting
Church. Kencott is a small Church with Norman walls to nave, but
later chancel, a low western Tower with quaint stair turret, and
higher pitched roof. The south door, which is Norman, has a
curious tympanum, with a Centaur shooting at a great fish rising,
and the letters forming the word " Sagitarius " above.
Broadwell, the next village, has a beautiful cruciform Church,
with western Tower and spire of the grand class of Oxfordshire
Churches, like Bampton and Witney. The chancel arch is Dec;
but there is a still finer arch to the north transept, with beautiful
carved caps. The other noticeable features are the Norman arch
to the Tower, the south and north Norman doors, trie bold
Norman font, the E. E. Window in chancel, and the beautiful
broach spire of Early English date. There is also a churchyard
cross on very high steps, but the head is gone. Close by the
Church are the ruined lodge-gates of a mansion of Lord Inchi-
quin — burnt down many years ago — with the avenue which led
to the house.
Langford follows half-a-mile on, with its Norman Church and
quaint carvings of the same date, which are very interesting.
One of these, of the Crucifixion, is inserted over the porch
entrance, and a figure of our Lord is in the east wall of the same
porch. He is dressed in a long cassock, and girt with a cincture ;
but the head and feet are missing. On the centre pilaster of the
Tower also, is another carving of two men in short kilts support
ing a disc. The Tower has double round-headed lights on either
side, beside smaller ones below, and a saddle-back roof ; but the
beauty of the chancel — its double lancet Windows — have been
thoroughly spoilt by the addition of a diamond-shaped opening
above each, which is entirely out of harmony with the remainder.
The arcade of the nave has lofty round-headed arches, with
carved caps ; but the arch beneath the Tower is small and of early
character, and both north and south aisles are prolonged half
way along the Tower without arches — an unusual feature. At the
exterior of the west end are a couple of lofty pinnacles, two flying
buttresses of the date of 1574 hold up the north aisle, and beyond
it is a gabled staircase leading to the belfry.
It is a very short distance to Little Faringdon, once a part of
Berks, but now in the county of Oxon. Granted at the same

Lechlade, and the District around it. 65

time as Inglesham to Beaulieu Abbey, it has some of its features ;
but they are slightly later, and more completely Early English
work. The details of the arcade are the same as Faringdon
Magna Church ; but the ground inside the Church has been
raised, and partly hides the . proportions. The chancel arch is
late twelfth century ; the chancel has lancet windows at its east
end, with string course running over them, and a couple of round-
headed Windows on either side ; the west end of the nave has
also a round-headed Window, deeply splayed; and on the gable
is a bell turret, with two bells. The dedication of the Church is
unknown. The turn of the road leads again into the Burford road, and in
less than a mile Lechlade is reached.
LECHLADE TO KELMSCOT, RADCOT BRIDGE, AND
BAMPTON.
Leave Lechlade by the London road; but just as the Trout
Inn at St. John's Bridge is reached, take the lane to the left,
leading to Kelmscot ; a short two miles along this, and the turn
to the right leads down to Kelmscot, with its little old Church
and Elizabethan Manor House ; the latter, the home of William
Morris, Artificer, Poet and Socialist, and his friend, Dante Gabriel
Rossetti. The Church is cruciform, and was originally Norman,
as the south door and other bits indicate ; but has been rebuilt
and added to at various times. It has a fine Early English
central bellcot, with two openings, and a late Norman arcade
between nave and aisle, with other interesting features. The
Manor House lies near the river, and a charming description of
it is included in News from Nowhere. The poet is said also to
have here thought out his Earthly Paradise.
Returning up into the road, we traverse it straight along to the
end ; and then, turning to the right, very quickly reach Radcot
Bridge. The old bridge over the main stream has seen centuries
pass over it, and is very picturesque, with its pointed and ribbed
arches ; over the centre of the parapet is the remains of a cross.
On December 20th, 1387, Robert de Vere, Earl of Oxford, was here
defeated by the Earl of Derby, and only escaped by swimming
the river on his horse. In the Civil War, it was entrenched as
an outwork to Faringdon House, and was only taken after fifteen
days' siege by the Parliamentarians ; one of the incidents of which
was, when Rupert's cavalry burst upon the Roundheads, and

66 Lechlade, and the District around it.
drove them back pell-mell over the river. The marks of entrench
ments are still quite visible.
The road over the bridge leads into Faringdon, but if we turn
back, straight up the road, we reach Clanfield, a quiet little
village, squatted down at intervals along the roadside. The
Church, a few yards to the left, at the cross roads, is dedicated
to S. Stephen, whose effigy is on the side of the Tower. It is
an Early English and Dec. Church, with western Tower, and has
several interesting features. The old south door, with its original
ironwork, the west Window, and the large squint looking from
the north aisle. Ellangowan Nunnery once stood close by, but
nothing remains of the buildings now.
Two miles on to the east is the little town of Bampton, with
its beautiful Church, and remains of a castle built by Aymer de
Valence early in the fourteenth century, of which even now part
of the gate-house exists, in the house called Ham Court, where
some bold vaulting, a Dec. Window, and other remains are to be
seen. The Church, a grand cruciform edifice, with central Tower
and lofty spire, is well worth a visit. The base of the Tower, the
south doorway, and part of the north transept are Norman : the
Tower and the spire dates about 1240. The nave and aisles are
late thirteenth century, with east and west Windows, and western
door of early fourteenth century work ; in the chancel arch is
herring-bone work, and the three-light aisle Windows have
beautiful foliations. The reredos is ancient, with very quaint
figures of Christ and His Twelve Apostles, and should not be
missed ; the chancel has also notable sedilia, an Easter sepulchre
in two stories, some fine misereres with carved seats, and three
brasses embedded in the floor. One peculiarity of the Church
was that there were three vicars, each of which took four months'
duty in the year ; but the parish has been divided, and now each
take their own portion, and the Church which belongs to it.
The return journey to Lechlade may be made via Clanfield
and Langford, but the road in places is not so good as that we
have traversed.

, GOODMAN AMD SON, PHCENIX PRINTING WORKS, NORTH STREET, TAUNTON.

TME NEW INN,
In the Market Place* close to Church* Road*
and River* with landing stage on the latter*
in the meadow adjoining the Hotel Garden*
The Best of Accommodation.
Twelve Bedrooms, Coffee and Smoke Rooms, and
Private Sitting Rooms.
HORSES AND CARRIAGES.
W* COOMBS* Proprietor*
TME TROUT I1MW5
St. JOHN'S BRIDGE,
-^— taEcHla7KE>E:.^-8^
To which is attached the exclusive right
of over Four Miles of some of the best
Fishing on the Upper Thames*
THE BEST OF ACCOMMODATION FOR ANGLERS,
TOURISTS, CYCLISTS, &c.

Daniel Bowyer* (Over 31 Years Proprietor.]

$\?aye?, Sailor, Halted axiA Kostae,
Millinery, Mantles & Dressmaking.
<ia^^ MOUSE FURNISHER. ^-*£^
J^aunt's photographs, Opalines and picture
post Cards of lechlade and the District
JAMES BEffiRD,
perseverance Ulorks, Bampton.
 -r*^- 
P1^IHTIH<3 !
Of every description, with promptness and despatch, in the best style of
workmanship, and at reasonable charges.

Account Books

Note Heads

Posters

Pamphlets

Cheque Books

Envelopes

Window Bills

Club Rules

Keceipt Books

Trade Cards

Hand Bills

Labels

Ticket Books

Visiting Cards

( 'irculars

Prospectuses

Invoices

Wedding Cards

Programmes

Flour Bags

Statements

Ball Programmes

: Tickets

Gum Labels

Memorandums

Menus

Catalogues

Mourning Cards

Note Paper

and Envelopes

Stamped in Plain

and Relief.

TAUNT'S Photographs, Opalines, and Picture Post Cards
of Bampton and the District.

Condon Street* fairford*
DINING & TEA ROOMS
with every accommodation for Tourists*
Commercial Travellers* Cyclists* &c*

C. MACEY,

»???????????????

ARTHUR PERRY,
$amlty Quicks,
FAIRFORD.
The finest Quality Meat only supplied.
%y Noted ?o?K atui. T^eef Sausages <Jwstv <2>alty.
^ New Ice House for Keeping Meat in Hot Weather.
PRIME PICKLED TONGUES ALWAYS READY.
HAMS, LARD, &c.
YOUR PATRONAGE SOLICITED.

X««y U Jauxvt % Co.
Have their Shop and Town Depot at
34, HIGH STREET, OXFORD,
Where they keep a very large Stock,

AND

VIEWS, GROUPS, OPALINES, LANTERN SLIMS,
BOOlCLEfft POlSf C/nyDft FKtflJUE FtylJIEft
and manij oiks SipecialUtes thwj manufacture
can be obtained.

Their WORK5 ^iruared at

have just been considerably extended, they stand in their
own grounds of more than FOUR ACRES, and have
unlimited light and room for
EYERY jyND OP PHOTOGRAPHY.
Extra Buildings have also been added and fitted with the
latest up-to-date
# TYPE AND MACHINERY ^
foe jfcs\ a%d Mluste&tioxi ?mVw$,
Booklets, 3/Couats, T?ost (Lards, Xmas (Lards, $c.
Henry W. Taunt & co.
34, High street, oxforid.
Opposite University College.

THE ILLUSTRATED MAP AND GUIDE TO THE THAMES,
Seventh Edition in Preparation.
34 Maps, 105 Photographs. 8vo. cloth Gilt 15s. Morocco 21s.
A copy of this guide has been accepted by H.M. THE KING.
POCKET EDITION with Maps, 16mo. Oblong, Two-and-Sixpence.
THE RIVER THAMES FROM OXFORD TO WALLINGFORD,
With the Towns and Villages upon its Banks.
Illustrated with Maps and Photographs. 8vo. cloth Gilt, Six Shillings.
THE RIVER THAMES THROUGH THE CHILTERN COUNTRY,
Including Goring, Streatley & the Neighbourhood,
Illustrated with Maps and Photographs.
Second Edition. 8vo. cloth Gilt, Six Shillings.
THE RIVER THAMES, STAINES to HENLEY & READING,
including Windsor, Maidenhead, Marlow, &c.
Illustrated with Maps and Photographs. 8vo. cloth Gilt. Six Shillings.
Down, fhe F^ivcr to Nuneh&m aqd y^bingdon,
With Map, Guide and Illustrations. 8vo. One Shilling.
gUnnafcxro, Ancient anb ptxrfrtftrtt,
With Plan, Guide and Illustrations. 8vo. One-and-Sixpenee.
Q&vcfye&tev l®x0n) an>> its $.W?£tr,
With a Guide to the Neighbourhood. Illustrated, 8vo. Ninepence.
Goring, Streatley ar)d the Neighbourhood,
With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo. cloth, Two Shillings.
pta^iraUtt f&oxvev xro Plan movnxtt$>
Third Edition, Illustrated, Sixpence. Words and Music only, 2d.
The Stoneheng-e of Oxfordshire, (The Rollright Stones,)
With Plan and Illustrations. Paper, Sixpence.
GODSTOW, BINSEY, WYTHAM &c, and the Story of
Fair Rosamund,
With Map and Illustrations. Paper, Sixpence. Cloth, One Shilling.
PUBLISHED BY
HENRY W. TAUNT & CO., 34, High Street, Oxford.

^OP ENGLISH SCENERY,®^

^%l

in
ENGLAND. «*•
£j\lD EKtfOHWIi
LETTER CARDS,
 -r*-^-  INCLUDE among many others
THE SCENERY OF THE THAMES,
with the Towns and Villages on its banks.
)H Sk Scmim\j ot ttie dotswoUis. %
OXFORD, its University 3< the Country rouqd.
towns, Mansions, Churches, & Scenes of Country fife,
in the Counties of
Oxon, Berks. Bucks, Wilts, Glo'ster.
Worcester, Warwick, Leicester,
Northampton, Surrey, Kent, Hants,
Cornwall, &c. <&c.
Oxford: Henry W. Taurjt £ Qo.
SOLO BY THOS. POWELL, HIGH ST. FAIRFORD.

^'SSi

•'gull," Family & Commercial ijotel, fairforD.

Proprietor of the celebrated Coin Trout Fisheries both at Fairford and Bibury.
Omnibus meets Train at Station. Daily Bus to Cirencester from Fairford
on arrival of 10.15 Train, returning from Fleece Hotel, Cirencester at 4.30.
Posting in all its Branches.
Good Stabling Accommodation and Loose Boxes to let for the Hunting Season.
Agent for G.W.R. Co., Fairford Station.

"Swan" ^otel, Bibury. frank Busby, proprietor of both hotels.

—"--=:¦- ¦¦!'-; —