YAi I '. VEh J, IHRAH r 3 9002 06750 0810 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Bequest of Ruth Walgreen Franklin (Ruth Stephan) TEN YEARS IN SWEDEN. Post Svo, cloth gilt, price 10-*. Qd.j A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND, WITH NOTES ON THB FAUNA OP LTJLEA LAPMARK. BT "AN OLD BUSHMAN," Anther of "Bush Wanderings in Australia,** "Ten Tears in Sweden," etc. " "We trust that the *01d Bushman's' book may send many a true naturalist, and many a holiday maker too, to the country that Lis book so well describes."— ^ader. " As a book for general reading, * j4 Spring and Summer in Lapland' will be found one of the pleasantest of the season. It is, however, as an ornithologist that he will be most appreciated by scientific men, and his chapters on these subjects are filled with original observations that evince an earnest desire for truth as well as unusual aptitude for this species of research." — Intellectual Observer. •'The description of his being lost for nine hours at night in a snow storm ia distressingly vivid; we doubt whether Defoe or George Elliot ever wrote anything finer in point of physical and psychological description. There is an agonizing simphcit^, a depth, force and truth of detail which could hardly be surpassed, because every touch is in the nature of the thmg." — Spectator. "A volume which will be acceptable to the ornithologist and the Sportsman.'' — Observer. "His notes abound in information."— jS^imi. *' It was a good thought that took the ' Old Bushman ' on a hunting and naturalist's mission to Lapland. His volume, teUiDg of the natural features of this district, and of the many animals that are almost its only inhabitants, ie more full of new and solid matter than the majority of travel books, and therefore has greater claims on the attention of men of science." — Examiner. " There is no need to praise such books as this, which will attract and delight many readers. No review does it justice." — Sta/ndard. " These notes on Lapland wiU be very acceptable to lovers of Natural Histoiy, and particularly so to students of ornithology." — Notes and Queries. " As a chronicler of these facts, the * Old Bushman ' is strikingly conscientious. He has recorded nothing ¦which did not come under his own personal observation." — Saturday/ Review. " Independently of the valuable zoological information, and the useful hints to sportsmen which are to be found in its pages, the book abounds with iQustrative anecdotes, incidents of northern travel, the Author's account of his being lost in the snow, and many other details of his experiences, render the * Old Bushman's * work thoroughly worth reading."- ^i^entBum. " What can the British sportsman require more ? Let him start at once to spend the * Spring and Sum mer in Lapland,' and take the pleasant, carefully-written volume of the • Old Bushman ' in his pocket as— neit to a circular note — his best travelling companion." — Daily News. GROOMBEIDaE & SONS, 5, Paternoster Eow. TEN YEARS IN SWEDEN A DESCEIPTION LANDSCAPE, CLIMATE, DOMESTIC LIFE, FORESTS, MINES, AGRICULTURE, FIELD SPORTS, AND FAUNA OF SCANDINAVIA. BT "AN OLD BUSHMAN," AVTHOB. OP " BUSH WAUDEHINGS IN AUSTRALIA," " A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND," ETC. *' Here the dark woods with many a patriarch tree In gloomy melancholy gaze on thee ; Here rocks on rocks up-piled upon the strand, Seem the vast structure of some giant's hand. While high above, the lucid meteors glow, And veins of iron in the mountains flow.*' — TEGIfXB. LONDON: GEOOMBEIDGE AND SONS, PATEENOSTEE EOW. MDCCCLXV. UiHKILD, P^^'I'^^R, IuOHDOS. TO MT OLD FRIENDS IN SWEDEN, IN EEMEMBEANCE or MANY A HAPPY DAT SPENT AMONG YOU, AND AS A SLIGHT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OP MANY AN ACT OP KINDNESS EECEITED, THIS WOEK IS BT "AN OLD BUSHMAN." INTRODUCTION. o»;o The man who sits down to write a faithfal account of a foreign country, in which he has resided for any length of time, has, strange as it may appear, a far more difficult task before him, than he who travels hastily through it, takes as it were a bird's-eye view of the land and its inhabitants, jots down in his note-book his remarks on men, manners, and tlungs in general, and then gives to the world a de scription of the country, and the people, as they appeared to him during a flying visit; a description too often coloured by hasty and erroneously formed opinions. It matters not to him whether he gives pleasure to the inhabitants of the country, which he may never see again, by a flattering remark, or wounds their feelings, by an ill-formed opinion. He finds fault with manners and customs, solely because he is unused to them. He is too apt to jump at conclusions and form ideas, which a closer study of the subject would often convince him were wrong, and on this account too much faith should never be placed, on thfe casual observations of a mere traveller. But if snch a man were likely to err by forming too hasty an opinion, he is nearly certain to avoid falling into an error from which a foreigner, "who has resided for some years viii INTEODUCTION. in the country, will perhaps find it difficult to escape. The latter must necessarily have gained something like a par- tiahty for the land (or he would not have remained in it) ; he must have received many an act of kindness from, and probably made many a good friend among, the people with whom he has been so long associated, and it would be an act of base ingratitude, to say nothing of its inconsistency, if after having, as it were, eaten of their salt for so long a time, he were to tum round and abuse his kind enter tainers directly he left their board. But still, if a man once undertakes the grave task of describing a country, and the habits of a people, he has a public duty to perform, and unless he can draw the picture with an impartial hand, he had better by far leave it alone. To give praise only where it is due, to avoid unjust censure, and above all, never to sacrifice plain truth to flattery, should be his invariable motto. Such, at least, shall be mine, and although I trust that not a single remark in the following pages will wound the feelings of a Swede, I hope that not one of my own country men will ever have it in his power at a future day to say he has been misled by my statements, or formed a dif ferent opinion of Sweden and the Swedes ,from a perusal of this book, than future experience wiU warrant him in retaining. It is on this account that I set about my task with no little reluctance, fearfal of being accused of partiality, for candour forces me to confess that my heart warms towards old Sweden. During more than ten years' residence in the country, I have invariably received the greatest kindness from all. From the first moment I set foot in the country, I was treated far more like a friend, than a stranger, and if ever INTEODUCTION. ix I was reminded that I was not one of them, it was to prove to me that the hearts of the good-natured Swedes warmed towards the foreigner. " I charge you nothing, because you are a stranger," was the reply of a good doctor in Carlstad, who had attended me for three weeks in a case of ague, to my question as to what was his fee. This simple sentence spoke volumes. It would there fore ill' become me to turn round and speak badly of the inhabitants of a country, after having for so long a time received daily proofs of their simple, warm-hearted kind ness. Among people Hke these, it is indeed a man's own fault if he cannot get on. I conformed as much as possible to the habits of the people among whom I was thrown, and was treated with uniform kindness and civility. I endeavoured to comply with their manners and customs, and did not — as too many English travellers are in the habit of doing — go about abusing and finding fault with trifles, or make invidious comparisons between this country and England. I behaved with courtesy to the gentlemen, with kindness and hberality to the peasants, and neither were thrown away. If I wished for fishing, or shooting, I never had the sUghtest difficulty in obtaining it, if I went the right way to work; and if ever I have met with any jealousy, it has invariably been at the hands of my own countrymen. A want of kindness and courtesy towards the stranger is certainly not among the faults of the Swedes, and I can pretty confidently say, that there are few other countries in Europe, where an Enghshman is better received than in Sweden. English travellers are exploring every comer of the X INTEODUCTION. globe, men now " scamper through " lands, which twenty years ago they knew only on the map, and I have no doubt that more than one traveller who has " done " Sweden, has given the Enghsh his opinion of the country and its inhabitants. But strange to say, the only book I know which gives anything like a correct idea of the country, and more especially of that talismanic attrac tion to the British wanderer, its " field sports," is Lloyd's "Northern Field Sports," and as that book was written some years since, and Sweden has, hke all other countries, undergone a considerable change since that date, I make no apology for introducing this little work to the Enghsh reader ; believing that many a brother naturahst and sportsman, would run over and enjoy a ramble in this land of " flood and fell," if he only knew how easily such a trip might be performed, and had something like an accurate idea of what sport he was likely to meet with, and what treatment he would receive at the hands of the inhabi tants. I may here observe, however, that I do not flatter my self that the contents of the following pages are altogether new or original. Of course I have been much indebted to others, for the information which they contain. Without Agardth's and Ljunberg's statistics, I could never have completed my task, and without the aid of Nilsson I should never have been able to lay before the reader, so complete an account of the Scandinavian fauna as I have done. I have, however, added much matter which has come under • my own personal observation, and, whenever I have quoted anything I have taken as much pains as I could to ascertain its correctness. I therefore confidently think that the reader may pretty well rely upon the INTEODUCTION. xi truth of everything, which he reads in the foUowing We have no booh in England that I know of upon the Scandinavian fauna, which is, perhaps, as rich as that of any country in Europe ; and I think, therefore, that the chapter relating to this subject will be found the most in teresting in the whole book, giving, as it does, a complete list of every mammal, bird, reptile, and fish met with at the present day in Sweden, Norway, Denmark, and Finland, with the locaUties which each frequents, and notices of the habits of the rarer species. For a great part of the matter contained in the chapter relating to the statistics, and general description of the country, its mines, and its forests, I am indebted to " Agardth's Statistics," a masterly and carefully compiled work, which ought to be in the library of every Swede. Much of the chapter relating to the agriculture of the country, is from my own personal observations, during a ten years' residence among farmers in difl'erent parts of Sweden, and I beg here to observe that the opinions which I give are solely my own. I have certainly received a httle assist ance in the calculations, but nothing more. Many friends ofiered to revise this chapter for me, but I would not allow it ; and if any of my ideas or surmises are wrong or iU founded, the whole fault rests upon my own shoulders. My chapter on the domestic life of the Swedes is just what I found it myself, and I have given what little informa tion I was able from my own experience respecting the field sports of the country. I have done my best to render my book amusing as well as instructive. My " Spring and Summer in Lapland " gave xii INTEODUCTION. a good, but perhaps succinct, account of the fauna and field sports of that country, and my " Ten Tears in Sweden " -will, I trust, do the same as regards Sweden. I have taken equal pains with both, and, as in my Lapland book, so in the following pages, I have stated nothing for which I had not a good foundation. But I must observe that if the reader expects to hear of perils and dangers incurred in the chase of the bear, or of extraordinary bags of game, or catches of salmon, he wiU be altogether disappointed. I never kiUed a bear all the time I was in Sweden, and as for my game book and fishing journal, I should be ashamed to show them to any brother sportsman. But this has been my own fault. I could, I dare say, with very Uttle trouble, have been in at the death of a bear, and I have lived in the vicinity of many excellent trout streams, without troubling myself much about the fish that were in them. Not that I am less fond of the sport than any other Englishman who has been bred to a country life. My time, however, has always been otherwise occupied, in studying the fauna of this magnificent land; and, except just when the snipe and ducks were well in, I seldom cared to fire a shot at any other bird than a rare specimen. Still my occupation of coUecting has taken me from Falsterbo Eeef to Quickiock, Lapland, and thrown me much among sportsmen of aU grades. I have seen the country in various districts, and at different seasons. I have had good opportunities of studying the habits and dispositions of the lower classes, in my various coUecting rambles, and I have read the character of the higher orders in that most searching of aU tribunals, the privacy of the domestic circle. INTEODUCTION. xiii With this preface I introduce my new work to the British naturalist, sportsman, and traveller ; and if my " Ten Years in Sweden " is only half as well received as my " Spring and Summer in Lapland" has been, I shall be perfectly satisfied, and deem that my time and trouble have not been thrown away. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAHB The Area of Scandinavia 1 Money ............ 4 Weights and Measures .... .... 6 Population 7 Divisions of Sweden . 9 The CLiMiTE 10 Vbset ATION — Limits of Trees and Cereals 18 The Soil and Surface of the Land 23 Metals and Minerals .25 The Iron Mines 26 The Gellivake Iron Fields 26 The Forests 32 Export of Timber 46 Agricultural Statistics 51 Export of Corn 54 Number of Cattle in the Country 68 Commerce and Manufactures . " 62 Merchant Navy 64 Sea Fisheries 66 Game and Skins as a Source of Eevekue to the Country . 70 Eailways 71 Postal Arrangements 72 The Eivers and Lakes 73 The Government 76 Eeligion . . . • • . 76 Universities 81 Laws 82 The Swedish Army ... ... . . 86 The Navy . . . • 89 Annual Expenditure op the Country . . . . 90 Taxes . .90 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE II. PiGB Advice to Travellers 92 Gothenburg 93 Advice how and -where to Settle in the Country . . • 9* Expenses of Living in the Country ... . • .96 Carlstad . 98 Hints to Sportsmen 99 My Mode op Life 102 Description op the General Habits op the People . . ¦ 110 Education . . 119 Domestic Habits op the Swedes 121 CHAPTEE III. Devoted altogether to the Agriculture of the Country . 124 CHAPTEE IV. On the Swedish Field Sports and Fishing, ¦with Short Notices of all Game, Animal or Bird, Indigenous to the Country, AND the Localities they pebquent 166 CHAPTEE V. A List op every Animai, pound in Scandinavia,' Finland, and Denmark, Sclentipically Arranged, ¦with a Short Descrip tion of Each. Mammals 207 Birds . 249 Birds op Spitzbergen 439 Birds of Greenland , . 444 Eeptiles 451 Fishes 168 TEN YEAES U SWEDEK o>«o CHAPTEE L G-eneral Statistical Account of the Country — Its Q-eographioal Limits — Climate — Population — Vegetation — Mines — Forest — Agriculture — Mauufacturea — Commerce — Govemment and Eeligion. The entire area of the Scandinavian continent, including Sweden, Norway, and Lapland, may be computed at about 13,798 geographical square nules, or 292,700 square Enghsh mUes, of which Sweden contains 170,000, and is conse quently nearly three times as large as England and Wales together. The whole continent is under one government, ruled by the same king, although Sweden and Norway have separate parHaments, that of the former being called the " Diet," of the latter the " Storthing." Norway is much more democratic in its principles than Sweden, and I beheve the laws are freer. The two countries hold much the same relative positions towards each other as England and Scotland, and about the same kind of feehng exists between the inhabitants of either country. It has often struck me that there is a general resem blance between these four countries, and the manners of the people. The featm-es of the Norwegian landscape are ¦wilder and more barren than that of Sweden. The Swedes more resemble the English in many points of their character, the Norwegians the Scotch. Both nations appear outwardly to be on very good terms with each other, although they really, I believe, bear one another 2 TEN TEAES IN SWEDEN. iio very hearty good will. Still I do not think that there is any likeUhood, at present at least, of any serious break out between them. Upon my asking an old Swedish friend in a general way his opinion of the Norwegians, I received the foUo-wing laconic reply : " There are two things they can do very well, deal in horses, and pack herrings ;" and, doubtless, the Norwegians have much about the same exalted opinion of the Swedes. Of Norway, however, I know Httle or nothing. Sweden was my home during my residence in the north, and it is of Sweden and the Swedes alone that I shall speak. The general features of the two countries (save that Norway is far less fertile, and more mountainous) and the habits of the people are much alike. One language ¦wiUpass current in both, although there is a considerable difference in the pronunciation. The scenery of Norway is much grander, and the salmon rivers in that country are de cidedly better than any we have in Sweden, at least they are far better kno^wn to the British fishermen, although for trout fishing I fancy one country is about as good as the other. As for shooting both countries are much alike. The same game abounds in both, and if a man is camped near the great dividing feU range between the two countries I don't believe it matters a pin on which side he were sta tioned. Of course knowing Sweden, I should prefer the Swedish side, and I may here remark that everything is much dearer (nearly 100 per cent.) in Norway than in Sweden. The people, as far as I could see, are prouder, and I do not believe the peasants are so accommodating (certainly more grasping) than in Sweden. The total area of Sweden itself is 3868 Swedish square mUes (or 8046 geographical), with a relative population of about 1000 inhabitants on each square Swedish mUe. Norway has an area of 2761 Swedish square miles, -vnth a population of about 550 on each square mile. The only foreign possession belonging to Sweden is the Uttle island of Saint Bartholomew in the West Indies, with about 3000 inhabitants. STATISTICAL ACCOUNT. 3 According to Agardth the total area of Sweden is 3868 Swedish square miles; although its actual surface, on account of its mountains and valleys, is much larger. Of this about 498 Swedish square miles, or one-eighth part, is taken up by lakes, etc. (in Norway the proportion of lakes is as one-twentieth). Lakes .... Swedish square miles. . 498 Meadow and cultivated land . 247 PeUs and barren plains . 1500 Forests .... . 1623 3868 According to Hahr's chart, the whole area of Sweden, including lakes, forests, etc., but exclusive of islands, is now 80,826,056 tunnland or Swedish acres. In 1656, under Charles Gustavus, the whole Swedish territory extended over 12,470 Swedish square mUes; and in 1856 (200 years after), under Oscar I., it was reduced to about one-half, or 6625 Swedish square mUes. The surface of Sweden is not nearly so mountainous as that of Norway. The highest mountain in Sweden is SuU- telma, in Lulea Lapland, about 6342 feet above the level of the sea. The highest in Norway is Skagastolstend, about 8670 feet high. More than one-half of Norway Ues higher than 2000 feet above the sea, and one-thirty-eighth of the whole land is covered with perpetual snow. While on the contrary in Sweden only about one-twelfth part of the whole country lies at so great an elevation, and about one-third of the whole land Ues less than 300 feet above the sea, and south of the Dal river there is not a mountain 2000 feet high. From Falsterbo Eeef, the most southerly point of Sweden, to the North Cape (which, however, lies in Norway) it is about 1200 Enghsh mUes as the crow flies, and the mean breadth of Sweden is 200. It is divided on the east from Eussian Finland by the large Tomea, Munio, and Tana 4 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. rivers ; from Norway on the west by a clearly defined fell range running right do-wn between the two countries as far at least as the Lake Famund, where, strange to say, it branches off' to the east, wanders through Sweden to the south, foUo^wing the west coast of the Lake Vettern, thence through Suraland down into Scania, passes under the Baltic into the Island of Bornholm, where it again rises in Eittarknekten (500 feet high), one of the highest mountains in Denmark, the last of the great Scandinavian fell range. On all other sides Sweden is encircled by seas ; by the Bothnia and the Baltic on the east, by the Cattegat and North Sea on the south. Its extent of coast is 620 Swedish mUes. It extends from 55° 20' to 69° 4' north latitude ; and from 28° 26' to 41° 50' east longitude. As I shall, especially in the present chapter, often have occasion to refer to the Swedish money, weights, measures and distances, I insert the following table (as they now stand) for a guide to the reader, adding that -within the last two years, eleven alterations have taken place, especially in the weights and measures. SWEDISH MONET. The money in circulation is calculated by — Eix-doUars, Eixmint (rqr. rmt.). Eix-doUars, Banco (rqr. bco.). SkUlings (sk.), both rmt. and bco. Ore (6.) 2 Ore are about equal to 1 skilling. 48 SkUUngs (100 ore) about equal 1 rqr. rmt. 1 Eqr. Emt. and 24 sk. about equal 1 rqr. bco. The Norwegian currency is rather different, more like the Danish. In exchanging EngUsh money (and Bank of England notes or gold can be always changed in Gothenburg or Stockholm, and often in the country), the pound sterUng STATISTICAL ACCOUNT. 5 should realize 18 rqr. rmt., or 12 rqr. bco. The exchange, however, is varying, and I never yet obtained the full ex change, rarely, however, less than 17 rqr. rmt. and 50 6. I may add now that an English bank is established in Gothenburg, the traveller or English resident in Sweden will in future be far more independent of the money changers on the Gothenburg Bourse, who have till now had a pretty good monopoly in their hands, and discounted English bills quite as if they were conferring an obligation on the seller, when they knew at the time that their own Swedish money was valueless in England. Formerly fusty old paper notes as low as 3 o. were in circulation. You now never see a paper note under 1 rqr., and these, ¦with others for large sums up to 100 rqr., are in general circulation. The old Swedish copper money was very curious. I have in my possession an old copper coin of 1731, value about 2s. 6d., 10 inches square, weighing about six pounds. Every note is clearly and properly stamped -with its value. I beheve all the banks are pretty safe, but I fancy it would be as well for the traveller to procure Gothenburg or Stock holm notes, and by all means to have them as new as he can. When changing a large note, he will always find the changer anxious to slip in as many ragged old notes as he can. Eefuse these at once, for perhaps up country they won't pass. Norwegian notes are as well refused also, for although they wUl pass on the border to-wns in Wermland and no doubt are as good as Swedish paper, they are often refused, and are always difficult to change. Moreover, such is the desire of the Uttle dealers here to turn a penny, that I have actually had commission charged me on changing a Norwegian note worth about 10s. in a little Swedish town not far from the frontier. But I cannot find much fault with this, for I recollect once on my passage from Gothenburg to Hull by one of the English boats, I wanted to pay my fare to the captain, an Englishman (whose business of course lay quite as much in 6 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. Sweden as in England), in Gothenburg notes, which I had just procured there in change for English money at the rate of 17 rqr. and 24 sk. to the English poimd. He refused to take my Swedish money unless I gave it to him after the rate of 19 rqr. to the pound. Unfortunately I had only one pound English money, which I wanted to take me up to London, so I was obliged to comply -with his demand. " Punch " used to have some joke about the " Great ! Eastern " being the greatest " screw " in the world, and I think this captain should have commanded her. LONG MEASUEB AND gUPBEPICIAL. This table is copied out of Lloyd's "Northem Field Sports," and has undergone no alteration since that Book was ¦written : 1 Swedish foot is equal to ll^^ inches EngUsh. 38 Swedish feet equal 37 feet EngUsh. 5416 Swedish feet equal 1 English mUe. 1 Swedish ell (aln) is equal to 2 Swedish feet. 1000 Swedish ells equal 649 English yards. 1 Swedish mile or 18,000 Swedish eUs equal 6 miles 1140 yards EngUsh, 1 Swedish square mile is equal to 324,000,000 Swedish square eUs. 1 Swedish square mile is equal to 23,142|- Swedish tunnland. 10,000 Swedish square miles equal 440,666-^ EngUsh square miles. 1 Swedish tunnland (or acre) is equal to 14,000 Swedish square eUs. 100 Swedish tunnland equal 122^^ EngUsh acres; 75t^o Irish acres ; 96tV Scotch acres. COEN MEASURE. _ The decimal system is now in general use, and aU the French weights and measures, with their names, ¦wiU pro bably be soon adopted. The cubit measure is now univer saUy used in measuring corn, grain, etc. STATISTICAL ACCOUNT. 7 1 Swedish tunna or barrel of corn is equal to Q-^ cubic feet, or 4>-\^ bushels English. 1 English bushel is equal to 1 762 Swedish cubic feet. The Swedish tunna is di-vided into 8 fjerdings, 36 kappa, 56 kanna. LIQUID MEASUEB. 1 Swedish ankar is equal to 15 Swedish kanna. 1-i^ Swedish kanna is equal to 1 gallon English, or in round numbers 1 English gallon is equal to 1^ Swedish kanna. 1 Swedish kanna is equal to 2 stocks, 8 quarters, 32 jungfru. 91^ kanna is equal to 1 EngUsh hogshead. WEIGHT. VictualUc is the standard weight of the country, and the Swedish weights have lately been much simplffied. The present weights are — 1 skalpund Swedish (sk.) victualUc is equal to 14-t-f- ounces English avoirdupois. 1 centner or c^vrt. (ctnr.) is equal to 100 Swedish skalpund. 32 Iod equal 1 skalpund. 2 Iod equal 1 uns (ounce) Swedish. The old Uspund (20 skalpund), and skeppund (20 lispund) are no longer in use. 1 skeppund or 400 skalpund equal 300 avoirdupois or 320 victualUc weight. The total population of Sweden at the present day may be reckoned in round numbers at 4,000,000 or 500 on each geographical square mile. These are all of the old Scan dinavian race, if we except a few foreign settlers, 10,000 Fins, 5000 Laps of MongoUan race (in Norway I beUeve there are 10,000 Laps), and about 1000 Jews. The female sex, o^wing, it is said, to the wars in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, predominate over the males at the rate of about 1059 to 1000. The population of 1863 was just double that of 1767. As may be supposed in such a country the population is 8 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. very unequally divided, and the southern provinces are just ten times more populous than the northern ones. The eighteen pro-raices lying south of Dalaroe, 60° north latitude, deducting the lakes, contain 2389 geographical quadrilateral miles, and their population in 1860 was 3,228,178, - or 1357 to each geographical quadrilateral mile. While the six northern pro-vinces whose area, exclusive of lakes, is 4839 geographical quadrilateral nules, contained only 631,550 in habitants, or 130 to each geographical quadrilateral mile. Thus Malmo Land in the very south had 3478, whilst Norhotten, the most northerly province, had only thirty- nine inhabitants to each geographical quadrilateral mile. The proportion of the married people on land is about thirty- three per cent. In towns not more than twenty-five per cent., and in Stockholm not more than twenty-two per cent. Stockholm is the capital town of Sweden, and the only one of any size. Its population in 1861 was 116,496. Next to this is Gothenburg, which has the principal English and American trade, ¦with 38,504 inhabitants ; Norrkoping with 20,228; Malmo with 20,149; Carlscrona with 18,523; Gefle with 11,219, and aU the rest with under 10,000. About one-eighth of the whole population reside in towns ; the other seven-eighths, or 3,500,000 are scattered over the country in villages, hamlets, or detached buildings. Out of 100 children born between the years 1856 and 1859 in Stockholm forty-two were iUegitimate; in the other towns seventeen ; inland only seven (but this I think is too little, at least in the country where I resided) . So in the moral scale Stockholm appears to stand lower than any town in Sweden. It is singular that in Stockholm there appears to be a larger proportion of women over the men than in any to-wn in Europe. In Stockholm French fashions, I beUeve, are more in vogue than English. Most of the Swedish to-wns are weU built, though still a great deal of wood is used in building (and in this country especially on land, I fancy a wooden house is better adapted to the climate than a stone one, as being much warmer). They are kept clean, lighted with gas, but usually ill-paved. GEOGEAPHICAL LIMITS. 9 owing to the nature of the country ; the environs of many are picturesque in the extreme. The Swedish -villages are generally ugly, and never built ¦with any regularity. As everything must be kept under cover during ¦winter, we never in the middle or north of the country see a well-fiUed stack-yard or a good straw-yard. The farm-houses are stuck here, there, and every where ¦without any regularity, the outhouses often in a dilapidated condition, and so many buildings attached to each farm-house that two or three will almost form a smaU viUage of them selves. The churches, generally large, often standing far from the village, are usuaUy painted clean white : and in the ¦winter when the whole landscape is buried beneath a sheet of snow, a northern village has a most chilling ap pearance. Some of the wooden churches are very curious, and the old belfry ¦with its single bell (or clock as they caU it here) is often detached. In each northern burial ground is a dead-house, where, during the winter all the corpses are deposited till they can break the ground to dig the graves in the spring. Sweden is divided into three great lands and twenty- four provinces : — Swedish square miles. 1. Swea Eike, or Middle Sweden, with an area of ..... . 954 2. Gota Land, or South Sweden . . 844 3. Norrland, or North Sweden . . . 2070 3868 Swea Rihe is divided into six provinces — Upland, Loder- manland, Westmanland, Nerike, Wermland, and Dalecarlia. This is the richest land in Sweden both for iron and timber. The scenery of this district is magnificent. Gota Land is divided into ten provinces— Eastern Gotland, Western Gotland, Smaland, Blekinge, Skane, Halland, Bohus Land, Dalsland and the Islands of Aland and Gothland. 10 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. This is by far the most fertile and populous part of Sweden. The country is flatter and more open than in any other part, is much better adapted to agriculture, and much of it lying on the coast, the cUmate is milder than in the interior. Norrland is di-vided into eight pro-vinces — Gestrikland, Helsingland, Herjedalen, Jemtland, Medelpad, Angerman- land, Westerbotten, and part of Lapland. This is the wildest, barrenest, and yet, perhaps, the most picturesque part of Sweden. It is little adapted to agricul ture, but is in many parts rich in minerals, which cannot, however, in the present state of the country, be rendered of much use to man. The forests are large, but inaccessible in many places. The timber gradually seems to become poorer the further north we travel ; and in the very north the land, save that it affords a scanty sustenance to the few inhabitants that are scattered over its surface, appears to be of very Uttle value to the rest of the country. The Gli/mate. — As may well be expected, in such a diver sified and wide- stretched land, the climate is very variable ; and the north, the middle, and the south of Sweden have each a climate of their own. The diff"erence of the mean yearly temperature in the south of Sweden and the north (Lund and Enontekeis) is 10° 04' : in Norway, between Christi ania and the North Cape 4° 1'. Still the Swedish climate may be considered as healthy, and, for its high northern latitude, mild. In the south and south-eastern provinces it differs Uttle from that of many parts in north Scotland. The cold is never very severe in the winter. There is rarely any sledging. The spring comes on at least a month earlier than in the midland districts (where the snow generally lies on the ground tfll far into AprU), and by about AprU the spring sowing in the south is usually finished. The country in the south is open, and many of the woods have a true English character. The soU in some places is rich and good, but there are many large open sandy plains and turf mosses, and wide barren tracts of heather mark the spot where the southern forest once stood. The mean yearly temperature CLIMATE. 11 of Lund in Scania lying in 55° 42', at an elevation of sixty feet above the sea may be reckoned at 7° 28' C* In Lund the longest day is 1 7h. 28m., and the shortest 6h. 15m. In Christiania, in Norway, the mean yearly tem perature is -I- 5° 36'; in Gothenburg, -t- 7° 97'; in Copen hagen, -1- 7° 92'. In the middle of Sweden the -winters are long and severe ; but, strange to say, the climate appears to be altering, for I often hear the old hands regret that we rarely have now one of the old-fashioned Swedish -winters. It certainly does appear that, of late years, the -winter sets in later, and lasts longer into the spring. The summer is deUghtftd when it fairly sets in, but the spring itself is not so pleasant as in England, for there is very little inter regnum between -winter and summer here, and the spring in the midland and northern districts is often only a long thaw. In 1864 the spring was exceedingly backward, and we had no real summer weather up to June 1st. We generally had — 2° C. of frost at night in Wermland. The oats were not planted tUl about the middle of May ; the potatoes scarcely tUl June, and on June 1st the trees could hardly be said to * In Sweden the Centigrade (or as it is also called, from its author, the Celsius) thermometer is used. In England that of Fahrenheit. 9° F. =; 5° 0. The way to convert Fahrenheit into Centigrade is to deduct o-l oo "Cl QO vy K 32, then multiply by 5 and divide by 9 ; thus : '—. ^^-^ = 100° 0. If you want to convert Centigrade into Fahrenheit you must multiply by 9 and divide by 5, and then add 32 ; thus : \ + 32° = 212° F. The addition and subtraction of 32 is owing to that difference in the freezing point of the two scales. As F. stands for Fahrenheit, so C. expresses Centi grade, or Celsius. The following table shows some of the corresponding points after two grades ; — 212 F. equals 100 C. 200 „ „ 93.33 „ 140 „ ., 60 „ 100 „ „ 37.77 „ 60 „ „ 15.55 „ 50 „ „ 10 „ 32 „ (freezing point) „ 0 „ freezing point. 0 „ „ 17.77 „ 12 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. be weU in leaf, and yet we had an excellent harvest. The summer is either very dry and hot or very rainy. The yearly downfaU of rain, snow, and hail appears to be scarcely one-fifth so heavy as in tropical lands, but rather greater on the west coast than on the east. According to Forsell, in the middle of Sweden, in an average of thirty-sis years, it did not exceed, 1 7| inches yearly. The hottest month is July, and the coldest is February. The mean yearly temperature at Stockholm in 59 20 , 128 feet above the sea, is reckoned at -{¦ 5° 7', and the cold had once been kno-wn there as great as — 32° C. In Stockholm the longest day is 1 8 Jh. ; the shortest 5h. 54m. At Umea the mean yearly temperature is + 2°, and at the North Cape the same. I insert a table of the lowest and highest temperature in every month for the last seven years after centigrade kept at Gardsjo, Wermland, lying in 59 1° north Iat. JANtTAET. PEBEtTAET. 1857 — 20 + 5 1857 — 12 r 8 1858 — 8 -- 8 1858 — 14 - - 5 1859 — 5 7 1859 — 9 - 7 1860 — 16 -- 3 1860 — 27 h 4 1861 — 22 -- 5 1861 — 10 -1 r 7 1862 — 20 4 1862 — 21 - 4 1863 — 15 + 8 1863 — 6 + 8 MAECH. APKH,. 1857 — 11 + 10 1857 6* -1- 14 1858 — 22 + 12 1858 — 4 + ir 1859 — 13 + 8 1859 — 6 -- 16 1860 _ 15 + 7 1860 6 -- 13 1861 — 16 -h 8 1861 — 4 -- 17 1862 — 20 + 6 1862 — 7 -- 17 1863 — 14 + 10 1863 — 0 + 11 MAX. JUNE. 1857 — 6 -- 25J 1857 + 10 -\- 26 1858 — 4 20 1858 + 13 + 29i 1859 — 2 -- 25 1859 + 15 + 28i 1860 — 0 -- 18 1860 + 8 -\- 26 1861 — 3 -- 19 1861 + 14 + 27 1862 - 7 -- 22 1862 + 11 + 28 1863 — 0 + 17 1863 -\- 13 + 24 CLIMATE. 13 JUIT. AUGUST. 1857 + 14 + 23 1857 + 18 + 29 1858 + 15 -t- 29 1858 + 13 4- 27 1859 + 15 -- 27 1859 + 15 -f- 27 1860 + 8 27 1860 + 13 + 21 1861 + 14 26* 1861 + 15 -\- 22 1862 + 9 + 25 1862 + 14 -\- 23 1863 + 10 + 27i 1863 + 16 + 24 SEPTEMBEE. OCTOBEE. 1857 ¦^- 8 21 1857 -1- 5 + 15 1858 13 -- 20 1858 — 4 + 15 1859 8 -- 20 1859 — 5 + 15 1860 -- 10 -- 21 1860 — 5 + 11 1861 -- 5 " 17 1861 + 6 + 15 1862 -- 2 -- 21 1862 + 1 + 16 1863 + 11 -t- 18 1863 2 + 15 NQ-VTEMBEE. DEOEMBBE. 1857 11 + 11 1857 9 + 9 1858 — 13 + 10 1858 — 14 + 6 1859 — 5 + 11 1859 — 20 -- 6 1860 — 12 + 10 1860 — 23 -- 2 1861 15 -t- 8 1861 — 9 -- 6 1862 — 3 -f 7 1862 — 8 -- 5 1863 — 1 + 7 1863 — 11 + 10 In Wermland when the thermometer falls as low as Zero, Fahrenheit, I used to fancy it cold, but anything under that (and it rarely exceeds — 25° C), I could very well stand with a good pea-jacket and gloves. I once felt it as cold as — 26° C. in Wermland, but I do not ever remember it colder. The -winter usuaUy sets in about the beginning of November, but we are sure to have frosts and thaws before the real winter comes on, about Christmas. The spring is late, and when there is a deep snow it lies on the ground in Wermland often till the middle of April. In the middle of Sweden we may reckon the four winter months to be December, January, February, and March. Spring — ^April and May. Summer — June, July, August. Autumn — September, October, November. The winter is certainly a dull, dreary, monotonous season 14 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. ¦ — eighteen hours dark to six hours dayUght, and it is often impossible to get into the forest for weeks on account of the snow, and if you can, there is scarcely anything to shoot. Of aU gloomy forests commend me to a northern pine forest late in autumn or -winter. Before the frost sets in, these northern forests have a dreadfully aguish feel. Scarcely a bird of any kind is to be seen, and the only sound we hear is the measured fall of the woodman's axe, or the chattering of flocks of crossbills, as they flit from cone to cone in search of food. We hardly ever see a game bird at this season, except it may be a few black cock perched on the highest tops of the birches. All nature out of doors seems to be -wrapped in a deep unwaking slumber. The sledging now is often, how ever, first-rate, and bleak as the prospect may be without, there is nothing cold within doors. Every country house is now thrown open ; glad reunions of families and social meet ings of friends celebrate this festive season. The tinkling of the sledge bells ring cheerily through the frosty air, and nowhere are the hospitable rites of old Father Christmas more strictly observed than in these northern cUmes. The ¦winter is, however, a busy season in the middle and north of Sweden for the forest-owner and farmer, and good sledging at this time is all important to the Swede, who has any tim ber to get out of his forests or iron ore to transport fi*om the mines. In a sno-wy winter the tops of the fences are scarcely apparent above the frozen snow. Gates are all thrown off their hinges ; high roads are now little heeded, and short cuts are made across the country for sledging over the snow and frozen lakes as straight as the crow can fly. In 1862 we had a bad winter in Wermland, without any snow (and this is always bad for the rye, but it is worst of all when it snows a Uttle, then thaws and freezes) ; and in 1863-64 no snow fell till early in February and our deepest faUs of snow were in the middle of March. The new moon in January came in on a Saturday with sharp cold, and as is usually the case here with a Satur day's new moon, the weather was the same for three months. The cold, however, was never very intense, rarely more than CLIMATE. 15 — 10°, but now and then in the night the mercury would fall as low as — 16° C. In the middle of February, when we were filling our ice houses, I measured the ice in our lake twenty inches thick, and the frost in the ground on March 10th was nearly two feet. The ice rarely gets much thicker when it is once covered -with a pretty deep coating of snow. The -winter landscape in the forest district, especially when seen from a distance, is often very pretty, the dark foliage of the pines standing out in bold reUef from the white covering of snow which surrounds them. It is, however, when the beech trees burst suddenly into leaf in the early summer that the beauty of this country is reaUy at its height. I suppose that it is owing to its contrast with the cheerless monotony of the -wintry landscape, but it is certain that no one except the man who has passed a -winter in the north can form the least idea of the glad and joyous feelings -with which summer is hailed by the inhabitants of these northem climes. Sudden as is the change in autumn, when the biting east -wind comes howUng over the dreary waste of Siberia, a.nd the landscape is buried beneath the snow drift, it is no less sudden when the mild west -wind of May comes with healing on its -wings and the summer migrants appear as the glad harbingers of spring. A few duU misty days with warm -wind and rain, and the whole face of the country changes as if by magic. The green rye appears as the snow rapidly melts away, the first bea sippa or wood anemone (which is here hailed with as much deUght as the httle -violet at home) raises its innocent head on some sheltered woodland bank. The trees burst suddenly into leaf, and no one who had seen the country a little while before could beUeve that so much beauty lay hidden beneath the waste of snow. Now all again is activity and bustle out of doors ; animal as well as vegetable Ufe aU at once wake up from their winter slumber, and for six months the farmer, sportsman, and naturalist have not a day to spare. When I first see the Uttle white wagtaU, I know that spring is not far off, and in the south this is the sign for the farmer to commence ploughing. We are sure, however, to 16 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. have a Uttle more -winter even after this, but in about a fortnight, when the yeUow wagtail arrives and we hear the deep trumpet note of the crane from the wild open mosses, the last struggle between -winter and spring is nearly over. Some little time before this I have observed the black- throated diver high in the air flying round and round as if taking a bird's eye -view of the country, to see if there is any open water in which he can pitch. Within about ten days from this I am certain the lakes wiU break up, and it is won derful when the ice once begins to crack, how soonit altogether disappears. The action of melting has been gradually, but imperceptibly, going on at the bottom, and all at once we see open water at the sides. The ice then suddenly breaks up, and if there should chance to be a Uttle wind, especiaUy from the south, the lakes will soon be all open water. Still I never fancy that spring has really set in tiU I hear the monotonous flute-like call note of the ortolan bunting from the fence by the green rye. The other spring migrants have often deceived me, the ortolan bunting never. What an interesting and beautiful study is the migration of the feathered race ! The very operations of the husbandman and the sportsman are in a great measure regulated by them, and the more attention we pay to this subject the more regular we shall find their appearance, and many a useful lesson both in the botany as well as the rural economy of a land, may be learned by observing the habits of birds and noticing their migration to and from each particular district. Man's constant companions in every out-door occupation, cheering him with their plumage and their songs, affording him often a principal means of subsistence, it is little wonder that the study of the feathered race should be a favourite one with all, and to that man whose time is happily and quietly spent in the forest and the fields, it gives one of the fimest zests to rural Ufe. The foUo-wing table of the arrival of some of our spring migrants into three different latitudes of this continent may not be uninteresting to the naturahst. Of course it only indicates about what time they arrive, and cannot be CLIMATE. 17 depended upon to a day, even to a week, but it gives an idea of what time they generaUy appear. Lark Golden Plover . Ring Dove Stock Dove Kite Woodcock White WagtaU . Wheatear CurlewStarhng . Redstart . Crane Swallow . Martin . Yellow Wagtail Cuckoo Shrike Wryneck . Swift Whinchat Scania, 55° 50'. 10th March 22nd „ 23rd „ 23rd „ 23rd „ 22nd „ 1st AprU 7th „ 10th „ 29th Feb. 22nd April 23rd „ 3rd May 3rd „ 5th „ 7th „ 20th „ 12th „ 23rd „ 7th „ Wermland, 59° 12'. llth March 10th April 20th „ 25th „ 10th „ 20th „ 17th „ 22nd „ 5th May 20th April 6th May 27th April 7th May 10th „ 10th „ 18th „ 24th „ 16th „ 28th „ 12th „ Norhotten, 66° 25'. 1st April 6th May 4th 15th 23rd „ 10th „ 10th „ 30th „ 30th „ 30th 15th The reader, if he chooses, -will find a description of a spring and summer in Lapland in my little work bearing that title ; and as for the -winter there, it would require a much greater share of fortitude than I possess to shut myself up for seven months with nothing to do and nothing to gaze on but a dreary waste of snow, merely to see what a Lapland winter was like. At Vardohuus, the most nor therly fortress in the world, hard by the North Cape, the sun never sinks below the horizon from May 21st to the 21st July, and is never seen from the middle of November till the end of January. In Tomea the longest day is 21 J hours, the shortest but 2 18 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. 2^. It does not, however, seem that the cold is so much more intense up at the North Cape than in the forest some degrees further south. It is curious that, owing to the higher average tempera ture and greater summer heat than in other lands in corre sponding latitudes, many deUcate plants will grow in Scandinavia at a paraUel where in Asia and America aU vegetation ceases. The oak grows in Norway as far north as 63° along the coast ; in Sweden as far on the east coast as Gefle in 61°, but on the west coast not further than 59°. The oak cannot be called a very common tree here, and only two species are indigenous to Scandina-via — the com mon oak {Quercus pedunculata, L.), and the damask oak {Q. sessiflora, L.) This is by far the rarest of the two. Wheat, cherries, and apples wUl ripen as far north in Norway as Trondtheim, 63-i-°; in Sweden, up to Hemosand, 62i°. The beech grows up in Norway as far north as Laurvig, 59° ; in Sweden it ceases at 58°, and it rarely grows at an elevation of more than 600 feet above the sea. Grapes, mulberries, and walnuts will ripen in fitting localities in the South of Sweden and in Gotland. In the southern Norwegian valleys grapes and almonds have occa sionally ripened. The southern division of Sweden lies in the cold tem perate vegetation zone, the northern division in the Sub arctic and Polar zone. The pine flourishes at an elevation of 1400 feet above the sea, and ceases to grow about 2800 below the limit of perpetual snow ; and the fir ceases to grow at an elevation of 1000 feet above the sea, and does not flourish higher than 2900 feet below the snow region. Strange to say, at Quickiock, which seems to be a perfect oasis in the Lap desert, both fir and pine grow up the feU sides some hundred feet above the village, which itself hes more than 1000 feet over the sea. The pine Umit appears in Sweden to be 59° north Iat., but the fir ceases at 58°. CLIMATE. 19 The birch is the most northerly of all our European forest trees. It grows upon the shores of the Frozen Sea. It is the only tree in Greenland and Iceland, and it flourishes in the East, aU over Siberia, and even in Kamt schatka. It grows higher up on the fells than any other tree, and in 66° north Iat., at an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea. Where no other tree can grow, the birch reaches the height of a man. About 400 feet higher than this, how ever, some few bushes are met with, and the black stalks of the dwarf birch {B. Nana) gradually dwindle to a creeper. The cloud berry ripens at this elevation, but no higher. And the glutton is met with even in these -wUd districts far higher up than the bear. After this aU bushes cease to grow, and the ground is covered only with a brown fell vegetation of hchen and mosses. The only berry that can ripen among the hchen is the crow berry {Empetrum nigrum) . The Laps never pitch their tents higher than about 800 feet below the perpetual snow region. To say nothing of the beauty which the clear green leaves in summer and the silvery stem of the birch in ¦winter add to the northern forest landscape, peAaps there is no tree more useful to the inhabitants of the north. For implements, building, and even for furniture, it is greatly in request, and the outer bark, which is easUy stripped off in the spring, is used for a variety of purposes, from thatching houses down to sohng of shoes. And no sole is so warm, or stands better against the snow, 'than this. They are called "Nafver," and are sold in little bundles of sixty strips for three rqr. They have one pecu Uarity — that of never rotting. The birch bark, rolled up, or even oblong pieces of fir bark, are much used here for floating nets instead of corks. Sallow, willow, and mountain ash, grow freely on both sides of the Tomea River, far within the polar circle. The alder is met with as far north as 63° ; the ash up to 62° ; ehn, hazel, and Unden up to 61° north Iat. Oats cease to ripen above 64° ; barley ripens as high as 67° north Iat. 20 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. Of -willow the Swedish flora o-wns at least forty species, twenty of which are pecuUar to Lapland, and one, the Salix polaris, grows on Spitzberghen. This and the Salix herbacea are the smallest plants in the world — perfect trees scarce three inches high. And both grow higher up on the fells than any others. ' The Swedish flora owns but two species of heather. The Erica vulgaris, L., the common heather or ling, and the beautiful Uttle cross-leaved heather {E. tetralix, L.). The former is much the commonest and is met -with everywhere, marking the place where the pine- forest formerly flourished. In the olden time, forests of fir and pine, covered aU the wide sandy spots where nothing else would grow in the north. These forests were burnt up in the wars which in the olden time were con tinually raging among the savage inhabitants of this land, and such as escaped the fire have since suffered more severely by the axe and the necessities of man. The forests have gradually disappeared, and nothing remains in their place save wide-stretched "¦ heaths " or " hedas " of no ser vice to any one. I never saw either the broom or gorse in Sweden. The following table shows the order in which the com moner Swedish trees come into bloom and leaf : — 1. The order of blooming of those trees which bloom before the leaves shoot — 1. Hazle .... Hasseln 2. Alder .... Alen 3. Elm .... Aim 4. Sallow .... Salg 5. Several species of Willow PU 6. Swedish Maple . . Lon. 2. The order in which the different trees appear in leaf : — 1. Gooseberry (Krushar) at the same time as the Elm blooms 2. Red Currant Vinhar 3. Bird Cherry Hagg 4. Elder . Flader 5. Mountain Ash Ronn 6. White WUlow Hvit PU 7. Alder . Al 8. Apple tree . Apple trad 9. Cherry . Korshar 10. Guelder Rose Olvon 11. Birch . Bjork 12. Hazel . Hassel 13. Ehn . Aim 14. Hedgerow . Njupon Busk 15. Pear . . . . Paron Trad 16. Plum . Plommon 17. Buckthorn . Werrentorn 18. Alder Buckthorn . Brakned 19. Lime . _ . . Lind 20. Beech . . . . Bok 21. Ser-vice. Oxel 22. Trembling Poplar . Asp 23. Maple . Lonn 24. Oak ... . Ek 25. Ash ... . Ask. 21 The blooming of the hazel is the first appearance of vegetable Ufe among trees, and the shooting of the leaves of the ash the last. With the first we may reckon the com mencement of the Northern spring, with thfe latter its conclusion. After a careful comparison of five years, Bishop Agardth gives the following as the medium time of -the leafing, flowering, and shedding of the leaves of the following trees in Wermland : — GooseberrySycamore Mountain Ash Leafing. 14th April 18th „ 18th „ Flowering. 4th April 25th „ 28th „ Shedding. 28th Oct. 2nd „ 16th „ 22 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. Leafing. Flowering. Shedding. Bird Cherry 18th April 14th May 10th Oct. Lilac 18th „ 15th „ 20th „ Raspberry 18th „ 16th „ 4th Nov. Birch 20th „ 15th „ 8th Oct. Horse Chestnut 23rd „ 26th „ ]9th „ Apple 23rd „ 28th „ 26th „ Aspen 26th „ 5th „ 24th „ Lime 10th May 18th July 20th „ Elm . 15th „ 20th AprU 20th „ Ash . 20th April 10th May 20th „ Pine 1st July Fir . 1st June Juniper . 10th „ The vegetation of the Scandina-vian feUs, accord ing to Thomee, may be divided into the following regions : — 1. The Cereal Region. — On the west side to 1400 feet elevation ; on the east side, 2200 feet. 2. The Forest Region. — On the west side to 2100 feet; on the east to 2700 feet. 3. The Birch Region. — On the west side to 3100 feet; on the east side 3500 feet. 4. The Divarf Birch Region. — On the west side, 4800 feet ; on the east side, 5200 feet. The climate on the Norwegian or west side of the feU range, owing to the proximity of the sea, is mUder than on the east or Swedish side. According to Meutz'er, the Umit of perpetual snow in different latitudes may be taken as foUows on the Scandina vian fell range : — Under 59° N „ 60° „ 61° Swedish or East Side. Feet above the Sea Level. Lat. 6000 „ 5900 „ 5800 Norwegian or West Side. Feet above the Sea Level. . 5800 . 5600 CLIMATE. Swedish ( )r East Side. Norwegian or West Side Feet above Feet above the Sea Level. he Sea Level nder 62° N. Lat . on the Do-vre Fell 5300 „ 63° 30' » 5200 „ 64° !3 , , 4800 „ 65° 1} 4300 4500 „ 66° 3i 4600 ( in the valleys . 3900 „ 67° }> 3400 „ 68° J) 4100 3400 „ 70° >3 up at Alton . 3600 „ 71° }} at the North Cape 2400 23 Horses are not met with above 67°. Meutzer gives the most northerly hmit of the glutton and the lemming 70°. The bear, wolf, lynx, otter, beaver, fox, martin, weasel, squirrel, between 69° and 70°. Of the hare and stoat at 69°; tame rein-deer 69°. Anywhere above the polar circle the midsummer sun is to be seen above the horizon during the whole night, but just within its limits it is necessary to ascend an eminence to see it well. The southem limit of the tame reindeer in Sweden is 64°, which now appears to be the most northerly limit of the elk, but wUd reindeer are met with on the Norwegian feUs nearly as low as 60°. The whole of the Scandinavian continent lies upon a mass of rock, the sharp and barren fragments of which after having been pulverized by time, lie scattered aU over the lower valleys and plains, covered over only in certain places with a thin layer of earth or vegetation, so that the moderate harvests of these northerly countries demand greater care and labour than in other lands more favoured by nature and climate. In the Scandina-vian rocks and mountains those formations which are pecuhar to certain other lands, containing coal and other valuable products and mine rals, are wanting, and only in one place, Hoganoes, in South Sweden, is there a bed of coal, and this of very moderate extent. In Sweden we certainly do meet with mountains 24 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. piled in horizontal strata and layers, for example, Kmne KuUe, Gotland, and Aland, but these are aU of the primary formation, and own none of the newer geological or vegeta ble productions. The principal ingredient of these Scandi na-vian horizontal strata is chalk, and as chalk has a great influence on vegetation, the tracts which lie in the vicinity of these chalk formations are most fruitful and rich in vegeta ble products. The land is, moreover, in many places scat tered over with erratic blocks of stone, a memento of the glacial period which these countries have passed through in earlier ages ; and it is a wonderful fact, probably owing to volcanic agency, which is still at work, that the water is by degrees receding from some part of these coasts, and the land gradually rising, which on the shores of the Bothnia is computed at four feet in every hundred years. This reced ing of the water gradually, however, diminishes along this coast until we reach Skane, where it is no longer apparent, but is again -visible in Halland and Bohus Land. In the south of Norway, it is computed that the land rises ten feet in every hundred years. But it is a singular fact that in Skane, instead of the land rising, a directly opposite phe nomenon is taking place, and on the coast around TreUeborg the water is graduaUy encroaching upon the land. In 1749, Linnaeus measured the distance here from the water's edge to the " Stafsten" (a large stone set up a Uttle west of Trel- leborg), and found it to be 357 Swedish ells, and ia 1847, Professor Nilsson measured the same distance, and found it tobe only 160 eUs, so that in ninety-eight years the sea had encroached upon this coast 197 ells, or about four feet every year. Nilsson, in an excellent article on the geology of Sweden, comes to the conclusion that in earher ages the Baltic was all dry land, and Sweden was land-locked with the north of Germany. This seems very probable from the fact of banks which now Ue far out in the sea at a depth of twenty to twenty- six feet below the surface of the water being completely composed of land and fresh water deposits. The Baltic which is surrounded by land on nearly aU sides, and has its MINES. 25 outlet to the North Sea only through the three belts, can scarcely be regarded as anything more than a large fresh water lake. Its depth varies considerably, nowhere, how ever, exceeding 145 fathoms, in many places not fifty. On account of the fresh water which 253 rivers pour into it, the water of the Baltic is one-fifth less salt than that of the Atlantic, and there are no tides. After some exceUent remarks on the geology of the land and the formation of the Scandina-vian fells (which I much wish Ihad space enough to insert fully), he concludes thus — " If we now consider that the medium limit of perpetual snow over Scandina-via between 60° and 70° north latitude is not more than about 4500 feet above the level of the sea ; that the medium height of the Scandina-vian feU range (of which many square miles even now Ue within the perpetual snow region) is about 4000 feet ; and that about one-fourth of the whole Scandinavian continent lies 3000 feet above the level of the sea, and consequently not more than 1500 feet below the limit of perpetual snow ; so it will be easy to guess what wiU be the result, if this gradual rising of the land progresses yearly after the same rate as at the present day. We can, then, easily reckon (if we take into consideration how much the land has risen within a given period) how many thousand years wiU elapse before the whole of Scandinavia is again covered with glaciers, in case this elevation of the land stiU goes on." This is certainly a most interesting subject to the geolo gist ; but as it is pretty certain that the country will remain much in its present state, at least, tUl a reprint of this book is called for, I think I may venture to go on with my task. METALS A-ND MINERALS. Gold is found in Sweden, but in very small quantities. They are now turning their attention to the gold, which is found mixed with the copper in the Falun mines, and I believe the yearly return is something like 100 lb. Silver is found in Sala mine in Westmanland and 26 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. Ridarehytta in Orebro Land, which in 1861 gave a return of about 2207 lb. Kongsberg, in Norway, is, I beUeve, one of the richest silver mines in Europe. Iron, however, forms the principal mineral wealth of this country, and the richest iron mines which are being worked lie in Wermland, Westmanland, Dalame, and Upland. The yearly produce of the iron mines is on the increase, and in 1861, according to Malmstrom, was computed as fol lows : — Pig Iron (Tack lern), 3,885,000 cwt. Wrought Iron (Stang lern), 3,408,000 cwt. Manufactured Iron and Steel, 593,000 cwt. The price of iron for the year is settled among the great mine owners at the -winter markets; and in 1864 the price of pig or cast iron was fixed at 3 rqr. 50 6. (above 3s. lOd.) per cwt., free on board at Arboga, a little north of Carlstad. The ordinary price of wrought iron here is about 7s. per cwt. In 1855 the produce of the iron mines in Great Britain was thirty-five times richer than those of Sweden. The value of the Swedish iron seems -within the late years to have faUen; and in 1860 Swedish iron was quoted in London at £10 10s. per EngUsh ton, but stUl Is. 3d. higher than EngUsh iron. Sweden is very rich in iron ore, but unfortunately much of it lies in districts which cannot be worked for want of communication. Up at Gellivare, in Lulea Lapland, there is a very rich iron field, and much of the ore Ues on the surface of the ground. As this name is well kno-wn, a short account of the great Gelhvare iron mines may not be uninteresting to the EngUsh reader. It can hardly be caUed a mine, but a mountain of malm-rock, lying above the surface of the ground. In 1819 it gave a return of 9000 skeppund of ore (one skep pund in the old weight was equal to 400 Swedish pounds) ; in 1839 it rose to 17,398 skeppund, but in 1849 the return was only 6223 skeppund; 1859, 3200 skeppund; and in 1860, only 450 skeppund. This mountain was first discovered in 1 730. It was first worked in 1736 by a Captain TingnaU, but Uttle was done MINES. 27 on account of the cOst of transporting the ore on reindeer to Stromsund's iron furnace. About the end of 1790 the mountain was purchased by an iron founder named Hermelin. In the neighbourhood there were many locali ties fitting for the erection of furnaces and forge hammers ; for instance, Wassero An, half a Swedish mile from Gelli vare, Wuosko Backen, and Nattavara, five Swedish miles from GeUivare. Hermelin did not avail himself of any of these, but endeavoured to transport all his ore down to the furnaces on the coast of the Bothnia; but want of labour and expense of transport beat him. In 1800 the Swedish Govemment took the affair in hand, and in 1817 a committee was appointed to examine and re port on the best means of transporting the rich ore, which is to be found not only in Gelhvare, but also in Afner Kalix and Jukkasjarvi, and they made their report in 1818. They proposed to join the rivers Lina, Angesa, and Kalix through a Une of canals; and thus transport the ore down on a large scale. I may add, that Gelhvare lies within a short distance of the river Lina, in about 67° north lat., and about 200 miles to the east of Neder Kalix on the Bothnia. Other engineers approved of this plan of forming canals, but they suggested that furnaces should be built a,nd the ore smelted in the neighbourhood. In 1,827 Herr von Scheel^, a man of great practical abUity in the affairs of mines, surveyed the spot, and proposed to lay a railway from GeUivare to Storbacken, on the great Lulea river, and then transport the ore by water down to Lulea ; and when I was up in Lapland in 1862, this appeared to me to be the most feasible plan. The decrease of the ore is o-wing entirely to the increased cost of transport. During the last, and early in the present century, the Laps only received for transporting the ore on their reindeer twelve Swedish mUes (or nearly eighty Eng Ush), to Edefors and Spiken, from which places the ore was carried to the furnace, 30 lb. of flour, or one-half a species dollar (2 rqr.) per skeppund. In 1836 one skeppund (400 lb.) of GeUivare iron ore cost about two and a half, but 28 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. afterwards three and a half rqr. bco. (or about 5s. 6d.), although the cost of smelting was not 6d. Gelhvare mountain, with all its appurtenances, was sold by HermeUn to King Carl Johan, and in 1856 was sold by King Oscar to a Swedish and Norwegian company. In 1857 it was proposed to lay a line of railway, sixteen and a half Swedish miles long, at a cost of five mUlion rqr., nearly in a straight Une from Gellivare to Stromsund's harbour in the Bothnia. To aid this project. Government offered the land and wood free, a toll-free import of aU required ma terial, and a toll-free export of 150,000 skeppund of ore; but the railway was never begun, and the company sold the whole concern to some Gothenburg merchants in 1860. The estate covers altogether an area of 80,000 tunnland; and this domain, so rich in iron ore, stUl remains of very little real value to any one, compared to what it might become if a sufficient capital was brought to bear in working the mines properly. Dr. Clarke in 1824, in describing this mountain, says: — " Gellivare is the largest iron mine in Sweden, and per haps in the whole world. Its layer of ore extends for several mUes, and is so rich that it leaves 60 per cent. of iron." An English engineer, Mr. Thomas, who inspected it in 1857, declared "that through a systematic manner of work ing it, and with an easy accessible shaft, and without any pump apparatus, seven to eight million tons of pure mag netic iron ore could be easily obtained." It is difficult to say what might be the produce of this immense iron field, as they have only as yet taken the upper layer, and never sunk to any depth ; but the com mittee which visited it in 1817 reported that though this mountain, which they found to consist of two ridges, the one about 18,000 and the other about 10,000 feet, in length, could not be called a mass of ore, it might nevertheless be properly called a mountain of iron ore in which the ore did not lie in veins and cavities only, but appeared regu larly spread over a surface of fourteen million square Swedish MINES. 29 yards. Consequently, if the whole mass of the mountain were pure iron ore, this surface, if it were sunk only to the depth of one fathom, would yield a produce of iron ore equal to about three hundred million skeppund, or thirty-seven million English tons. According to Govemment returns in 1858, the ore in the Norra Iron Mine yields 50 per cent., but that of GeUivare 67 per cent. I am the more induced to make a few remarks on this subject, as it is in the contemplation of the Swedish merchants who now own this mine, to form a company, in which they wish the English to join, for working it ; the advertisement of which I copy from the Stockholm " Afton Bladez " of March 8th, 1864, and which has also appeared in the EngUsh papers. " The G-eUivare Company, Limited, formed in 1862, capital £500,000 in 10,000 shares of £50 each. " The Estate covers an area of 1,200,000 acres, of which 500,000 consists of pine forests, and 100,000 are adapted to agriculture. " 1. The Iron Mine itself described according to Edman's survey in 1862. " 2. 215 settlers' residences for the workmen, 9 water and 1 steam saw mill, 2 furnaces and 4 forges. " 3. The timber gives a great yearly result. The yearly produce is reckoned at above 10,000 St. Petersburgh standard or 33,000 loads, which if sold for £4 58. per standard free on board, would yield a clear gain of £1 5s. per standard. " The mahn can be worked cheap, on account of the great produce of charcoal, so that 25,000 tons of pig iron can be easily worked at a cost of £1 19s. per ton free on board, of which the shipping price is about £4 per ton. ' " A line of railway is proposed from the Mountain to the Lulea Eiver, about sixty English miles, and then by two short canale over two waterfalls, the transport -will be right down to Q-addoit Harbour in the Bothnia. The total cost of this railway and canals would not exceed £232,000. " It is proposed that the company shall give £225,000 for the estate, and with the cost of railway, wiU require a capital of £500,000. " The yearly produce is reckoned at the prices of foregoing years thus : — 60,000 tons of Iron Ore to furnaces in Sweden and Finland at 6s. per ton £18,000 To the working of 25,000 tons in the company's own furnaces, at a profit of £2 Is. per ton. . • 57,250 30 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. To 15,000 standard of timber, at a profit of £1 5s. per standard 18,750 Profit on the Eailway 8,700 On the canals 6,395 £103,095 Deduct for Expenses. . . . 8,095 Lea-ving a yearly income of . . £95,000 or 19 per cent on the capital with a probable rise iu the quantity of ore, and the probability of working bar iron and steel. " The yearly interest of 6 per cent, for the first three years is guaranteed to the shareholders on their money invested, by a deposit of £50,000 in the bauds of the company." Now this aU looks well enough on paper, and seems to offer a very good retum for the capital invested. As to the last paragraph of guaranteeing 6 per cent, for the first three years ; it appears to me to be much about the same as if I borrow £75 from a man and give him my bill for £100 with which to pay him the interest. I have talked this speculation over with many men, com petent judges, and I never heard but one opinion, which is, that the iron ore in this immense field (we can hardly caU it a mine) is nearly inexhaustible, and that it is richer than that of any other mine in Sweden. Yet some how or other, I do not see that any one here appears very anxious to enter into the scheme. The probability of getting nineteen per cent, for their money, would, I am certain, in any ordinary speculation, tempt the Swedes, and although not a rich country, there are many rich iron masters, and merchants -with good capital at command. It seems, however, that the whole dependence of the promoters of the speculation is on the support of the EngUsh, and if half the shares were taken by Swedes, I do not think there would be much hesitation in EngUsh capitaUsts investing, for I feel certain in my mind that if the project is weU managed, and properly carried out, it wiU be a paying speculation. I do not look so much to the tunber, for I heard a very diffe-- rent account of this when I was up at Quickiock, in 1862. I do not suppose that there -wiU be any ftirther difficulties MINES. 31 in the matter of transport than capital and good engineers wiU be able to surmount. But I cannot see where hands are to be got to work the affair on a large scale, unless the English follow the example of their Russian friends, and turn Lapland into a second Siberia by sending out the convicts to work in the Gellivare mines. I know labour is so scarce up there, that the owners of the mines have used all inducements for settlers to come up and work. A grant of land was offered to each to farm, but I believe he had to build his o-wn log hut on it. A few did come up, and bitterly I heard some of them complaining that they ever left their homes in the more southern parts of Sweden to settle in this -wUderness. It is simply absurd to talk about agri culture in a district where I do not suppose, on an average, they will get their crops to ripen more than once in three years, and where a potato two inches long would gain a prize if there were any agricultural meetings. The Laps, I apprehend, would not be of much use, for like other -wUd men, they are too fond of a ro-ving hfe ever to settle down to steady hard work. I have not much experience in mining, but I suppose very little could be done in the -winter, and if men have to be brought up in the summer to work for a few months, and sent back in the winter, it would be a very costly affair. A good many public works are now being carried on in Sweden, such as railways, etc. I do not know whether they have any difficulty in procuring hands, but I know that in Wermland, farm labour is now very scarce, so many men being employed on the railways, audit is wonderful how low the supply of labour is becoming during the sum mer months in the midland districts. Still, I suppose, this is to be managed, and if I saw that half the shares, at least, were taken up by the Swedes and the Norwegians, I should begin to think that business was meant. The great mine of Danemora gives also a considerable yield of iron, in 1860, 131,001 skeppund, and this is of the finest quaUty, for when the price of ordinary Swedish iron in England was £10 and £11, the " Oregrund" or Danemora iron fetched as high as £22 to £32 per ton. 32 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. The Swedish steel is, perhaps, the best in the world, and some say that this is owing to the ore being smelted by charcoal instead of coal. The greatest export of Swedish iron to England ever known was in 1860, and next to that in 1857, when 314,852 skeppund, or nearly 40,000 tons were exported; but a great deal of it comes back again into the country as manufactured goods, for in 1860, 2,191 cwt. of steel, besides a considerable quantity of iron goods of every de scription, were imported. There are, however, several manufactories of steel and iron; and agricultural imple ments are now made so good and cheap in Sweden after English models, that it wiU hardly pay to import them from England. The export of wrought iron from Sweden in 1863, was 3,153,674 cwt., and of steel, 63,268 cwt. Besides the above named, there are other metals and minerals in the country, at present only obtained in small quantities, but which will doubtless increase as the re sources of the country open out, and better communication is attained; such as lead, sulphur, htharge, -vitriol, alum, and a yearly produce of coal in the south of Sweden, amounting to about 140,000 barrels. The exports of all other metals in 1863, besides iron and steel, -was 3,163,674 cwt. The manufactories of glass, porcelain, paper, etc., are yearly on the increase. THE FOEESTS. We now come, however, to the loadstone of Swedish wealth; and certain it is that from great mismanage ment this sound and standard source of inland riches to the country is gradually decreasing. It is as far beyond my capacity as it is out of my province to endeavour to point out a remedy for the defects of a system about the working of which I kno-vvr little or nothing ; but it requires no great amount of observation in a man whose out-door POEESTS. 33 occupations lead him much into the Swedish forests to see the -wretched state in which most of them are kept, and the waste of timber that reaUy takes place. Let no man at the present day expect to wander among the primeval forests of the north. The axe has done its work too effectually ; and rotten stumps,, in many places four feet high, are all that now mark the spot where the giants of the forest once stood. It is rare to see a tree, at least in any ordinary forest within reach of a large river, above fifty years old; and even these are fast sharing the fate of their older brethren. Moreover, the ground is everywhere strewed with fallen trees, which lie rotting in the wind and sun, of no use to any one. On aU sides the work of devastation is apparent. In very few cases do we see any care bestowed upon the forest culture. The present system of mismanagement in the northern forest is indeed an apt Ulustration of the fable of the farmer who kiUed the goose which laid the golden eggs ; -with this part of the subject, I have, however, little to do. Any one who is interested -wiU find it ably treated of in Bishop Agardth's masterly work on Swedish statistics, to which I am indebted for much information contained in this chapter. My busi ness is merely to lay before the English reader a short state ment of the economy of the Swedish forests, their extent, their produce, their capabiUties, and their present mode of management. As I have before shown, the pine and the fir are the most valuable products of the Swedish forests. Not that the birch is perhaps less valuable, but it is not so extensively gro-wn. In commerce the timber of the pine may be reckoned as worth 25 per cent, more than that of the fir. The roots of the pine go much deeper into the earth than those of the fir, which are often spread on all sides around the tree above the surface of the ground ; and therefore in these forests we see that the fir grows chiefiy in such places as are strewed with large blocks of stone, among the cracks of which the roots can creep. On the contrary, the pine thrives best in those places covered with sand and small 3 34 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. stones, where the roots can strike deeper. The fir also requires a richer and better soU than the pine. Besides the fir, the aspen, or trembUng poplar, is scattered over aU the lower grounds and grows to a great size in many places. It is one of the commonest trees in Sweden, and appears to grow in any soil from the very fell sides downward. It is a quick gro-wing tree, and in thirty years has attained a large size. It appears to be little valued, except that the wood is much used in the manufacture of lucifer matches, and the leaves and branches, like those of the birch, are gathered in the autumn, and used as -winter food for sheep. This is the only species of poplar, indigenous to Sweden. The mountain ash also in many places attains a large size, and its bright red berries partly serve to dispel the gloom of the -wintry landscape; and as here we have no hawthorn, and the few hips of the wild dog rose are plucked and sold for preser-dng, the berries of the mountain ash and the juniper, which grow freely, at least in aU Wermland, form the principal subsistence of most of the smaU birds that remain in Sweden during the -winter. But these can scarcely be called forest trees. There is another tree, however — the birch — which appears to be the. peculiar companion of the fir, and is about the only one that -wUl thrive in its company, and imme diately the fir forests disappear the birch takes their place. No tree is so valuable in the young fir plantings as the birch, for it is of quick growth and serves to shield and foster the more valuable trees that grow in the same forest. At the age of ten years the birch is hard enough for fire wood, and no forest tree answers so well for this purpose, containing as it does so much heat. At thirty years it can be cut down as underwood, and at fifty years it has attained its fuU growth. As the birch trees are cut down the more valuable trees are left. The birch thus pays for planting and preser-nng the better trees which fatten the land, while the birch, when planted alone, impover ishes it. FOEESTS. 35 As Agardth sensibly observes : — " When we see so simple and cheap a method as this of providing our wood, first for burning and afterwards for timber, it does, indeed, appear singular that in our land we are complaining on all sides of the prevaihng want of timber, -without having resource to so easy a remedy. We complain, but at the same time stand by with folded arms." The pine requires more air and Ught than the fir ; con sequently, if the trees stand close together the stem is always free from branches, which then, as it were, form a crown on the top. The pine reaches a greater age than the fir, and comes to maturity later, the further north it grows. In Wermland they are fuU-grown at the age of 1 80 years: in Dalaroe at 210; but in more northerly tracts not untU they are at least 300 years. This we must bear in mind; for when we are treating of the management of the forests by a proper circulation it is the basis upon which our calculations are grounded; we may, however, here state that when we aUude to 100 years' circulation, we do not mean that the tree is full-grown at the age of 100 years;' but only that it is then of a sufficient size to be cut down for saw blocks. Probably 120 years' circulation would be nearer the mark south of Stockholm ; but not in the north. For aU our purposes, however, a circulation of 100 years wUl suffice. For fire-wood the pine is much better than the fir, as it bums much brighter, and leaves a better «!oal. For good fire-wood the tree should be cut do-wn in the winter when aU the sap is in the stem, split up in the spring, dried in the summer, and brought home for burning in the following autumn. It appears hardly yet to have been ascertained with any degree of certainty how much the thickness of the tree at its root and a greater distance up the stem betokens its age, but the following calculations are, I believe in the main, correct : — A pine up the Tornea River under 66° 40' north lat. with a diameter of 9-1 inches is about 100 years old; 11 inches. 36 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. 150 years old; 13-|- inches, 200 years old. So according to these proportions it appears that in this latitude a pine grows one inch in diameter in every ten years during the first century ; but in the second century only one inch in every twenty-two years. At Gefle, under 60° 4' north lat., a pine of 14 inches diameter is about 100 years old; ]8i inches, 150; 21| inches, 200. It will be seen how much quicker the tree grows in a more southerly latitude. In 67° north lat., on sandy ground, it takes 300 years to get a. good block of fir of sixteen inches diameter; but it has then long since passed its best point of growth. In the middle of Sweden, latitude 59° 20', it is reckoned a fair growth if ten rings in the timber give one inch breadth of wood on each side of the pith, (i. e., two inches for the diameter or thickness of the tree) and one foot in height. A tree of 100 years old of such a gro-wth wUl be twenty inches in diameter at the root, and 100 feet high to the top. At twenty feet from the ground the stem wiU be fifteen to sixteen inches in diameter, and, consequently, fit for a saw block. At thirty feet from the ground the stem will be twelve to fourteen inches in diameter. " It was easy enough," as Bishop Agardth observes, " in the olden time, to distinguish in the northem forests the difference betwe*6n the trees fit for masts, for saw blocks, and for building purposes. Masts are now no longer found in any forests which are of service to man. Those forests in which saw blocks are to be found, are graduaUy reduced to smaller and smaller dimensions, and by degrees we shaU have no timber left, except just for building pur poses. At length we shall only find trees for charcoal and firewood, and in the end we shaU come only to wood rubbish." The foUowing table of the thickness and height of trees in Wermland, 59° 4G' north latitude, may be taken as pretty correct : — FOEESTS. 37 in. ft. in. Pine, 8 years old, -will be li diameter at the root ; length 5 3 Io „ „ 3 „ „ „ 8 0 12 ., „ 4 „ „ „ 11 8 At 20 to 40 years old, we may reckon 5 to 7 yearly rings to the inch. After that, 10 to 13 yearly rings to the inch. A tree of 100 to 150 years of age is twenty to twenty-four inches in diameter at the height of a man's breast. in. ft. in. Fir, 11 years old, li bottom diameter; length 5 3 17 „ 3 „ „ 10 10 On Asplund, Wermland, where this calculation was made, there was a young pine wood, about forty-five years old. The trees were very regular, forty-five feet in height, and seven to eight inches in diameter. The age at which both the fir and pine, bear cones, de pends much upon whether they stand close together or apart from each other. Where the trees stand well apart, free to the wind and sun, they ¦wiU bear fruit at twenty or thirty years of age, but if they grow close together, not before they are seventy years old. But it is not every year that they flower ; on an average, perhaps, not more than every eighth or tenth year. According to WaUenberg, the fruit of the pine does not ripen untU the third year after blooming. It is reckoned that on a Swedish tunnland there is room for 300 trees of 100 feet each. I had an opportunity this spring of spending a week in the forest with a friend near here (to whom I am yearly indebted for a little elk shooting), and seeing the process of timber floating down from the woods, about six miles to his saw-miUs. I had a good deal of chat with him on the subject of the forests. Like every other Swede whom I ever met, he willingly and most kindly gave me all the information in his power, and I was glad to find that his remarks corroborated, in a great measure, all that I have written on this subject. His forests extend over more than 38 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. 10,000 acres. He manages them properly and they are about on a par ¦with the best round here. He says, by managing these forests properly, he can cut down yearly 400 dozen of sawing blocks. Many trees will cut into two blocks ; these blocks after cutting, as they lie in the forest, are scarcely worth £1 a dozen. But when he has sawed them (each tree ¦will average three planks) they, of course, wiU be worth more, and he may, probably, clear 15s. a dozen, after all expenses are paid, when they are sold in Gothen burg. It is very hard to give an estimate of the value of forest land to purchase. Everything depends upon its situation, as much of the forest Ues so far from water communication, that it can never be of use to any one. However, he says, take aU Wermland through, the forest land will not be worth, on an average, more than £1 per acre to purchase. Swedish square miles. According to Bishop Agardth, the total area of Sweden is .... 3868 From this deduct — Inland lakes and mosses . . . .498 Arable land, meadows, and other enclosed ground ....... 247 For fells and forests in the northern pro vinces, not avaUable, and for barren flats in the south ...... 1500 2245 We shall find an area of forest land throughout the whole country left of . . . 1623 But from this we must deduct, for swamps and rocky lands in the forest, where no trees can grow ....... 500 Leaving an area of productive forest of . . . 1123 Or equal to 26,000,000 Swedish tunnland; or above 31,000,000' EngUsh acres. FOEESTS. 39 The cro^wn, or royal forests, in Sweden are sixty-six in number, lying in ten pro-vinces, and extending over an area of 143,224 tunnland. On a fair calculation it is reckoned that, at the present day, the timber which can be put to any profitable purpose in these forests, does not exceed more than twenty-two fathoms of 100 cubic feet on each tunnland, so that, ac cording to Herr Strom, the gross produce of the 26,000,000 tunnland wiU be 572,000,000 fathoms, which if we allow for the 100 years' circulation (as noticed hereafter) wiU give us a yearly return' of 5,720,000 fathoms, or one-hundredth part of the gross return of 572,000,000 fathoms. Now, according to StrOm, the consumption of wood in Sweden in the year 1854 was Fathoms. Calculated at 6,915,568 And the export .... 436,169 Total .... 7,351,737 The yearly consimiption he reckons thus : — Fathoms. For firewood — one fathom for each person . 3,600,000 (This was some years back, when the popula tion was not so numerous.) Charcoal for Furnaces, etc. (it is reckoned that seven cubic feet of wood go to each tunna of charcoal) ...,..• 1,986,000 For Brandy DistiUing (six fathoms for every 1000 kanna, and, according to HerrNycan- der's report, 1 1,678,000 kanna were distilled in 1854— but in 1862 14,376,000 kanna were distilled) . 70,068 For Burning Bricks and TUes (one fathom to every 1000 bricks) • 12.500 40 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. Fathoms. Fathoms. Steamboats .... 20,000 Steam machinery on land . . 15,000 Glass and porcelain manufactures . 12,000 47,000 Timber used in building houses, ships, car pentering, etc 1,000,000 Total • . . 6,715,568 Exports in 1854 436,169 Total consumption . 7,351,737 But there appears to be a mistake in the adding up of Strom's calculation. The sum total should be 7,151,737 instead of 7,351,737, as he makes it; but I -will follow his calculation, and allow the consumption to be 7,351,737, for it has of course much increased since 1854. Now allowing the yearly consumption to be 7,351,737 fathoms And the yearly produce of the forests, if fairly managed, to be . . . 5,720,000 „ We shall find that there is a dead yearly loss on the capital of the forests of . 1,631,737 „ In remarking on Herr Strom's calculations (with which although not altogether agreeing, he considers in the main to be pretty correct). Bishop Agardth observes — " The above calculation plainly shows that, as the yearly consumption of timber is greater than the yearly produce (at least what ought to be the produce of the forest if it was properly managed) a time must come at last when the forest capital -will altogether cease ; that is, when the woods have totally disappeared. They resemble a great capitaUst, whose yearly expenses exceed his yearly income, and conse quently all of a sudden he finds himself a bankrupt. " Herr Strom has presupposed a hundred years' circula tion in the cutting down of the forest ; we must, therefore, FOEESTS. 41 reckon the interest, or yearly revenue, as one per cent.; and, on the other hand, we find that the yearly consumption or expenditure is one-twenty-eighth, or one and a quarter per cent., according to which reckoning the whole of the forest capital -wiU have disappeared in 350 years from the present time. If this, however, were the case, we could hardly say that the prospect for the future was so dark, because for the next three centuries we might manage our forests after a better plan. " But this result, i. e., the disappearance of the forests, must come much quicker, when we take into consideration that the population of Sweden increases after the rate of one per cent, per annum, and therefore that the annual consump tion of wood wUl also increase in a hke ratio (one per cent.); so that the forest capital wUl yearly decrease much more than one and a quarter per cent. " In seventy years the population of Sweden -will be seven milUons, consequently the yearly consumption must be assumed as if the seventy years were double, or above fourteen mUhons of fathoms; whence it foUows that the Swedish forests -wiU have totally disappeared not in 350, but in 120 or 130 years." We have above aUuded to the hundred years' circulation in these forests, and I wiU now explain how they should be properly managed, that the owner might be able to obtain a yearly supply of wood and yet leave a sufficient stock in his forests for a future day. A fir tree grows one foot a year, and has arrived at a good timber gro-wth say in a hundred years. This varies, as we have before shown, in different latitudes ; but this circulation is near enough for Our present purpose. Supposing a man to purchase say 1000 acres of forest, and in its present state there wUl probably not be a tree of forty years' growth standing on it, but stUl on every acre some timber trees, although smaU, besides small wood. He divides this forest , into a hundred parts, and clears off ten acres, or one-hundredth part, every year, cutting down every tree, great and small ; for the principal thing to be regarded in forest culture is, that the trees all grow pretty 42 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. equally of the same height, and not that one should over shadow the others. As soon as this ten acres is cleared, he sows it -with new seed of fir and pine mixed, at an expense of about 2s. 6d. per acre. The next year he clears off another hundredth part, or ten acres, sows it in like manner, and so on year after year. In ten years' time he goes back to his first ten acres to clear them out. The young trees which he thins out will be by this tiine about ten feet high, and -wiU serve for pit props and other small poles. In ten years he wiU thus have twenty acres of productive forest — his ten acres of old wood which he clears off, and the ten acres of young wood which he thins out. His older timber is yearly increasing in value, and as he can clear his young plantings every tenth year, in twenty years he has ten acres of old forest to cut do-wn, ten acres of twenty years' growth to thin out, and ten acres of ten years', and so he goes on. His forests are yearly increasing in value, and although he may not Uve to reap the full benefit of this proper mode of management, he is sure to leave behind him a valuable heir-loom to his family, for think what would be the value of these forests if they were thus managed ! Un fortunately, however, this requires time, as the forest -wUl not give a return for the Capital laid out upon it in the first year's crop, like a plough-field, and as long as the ready penny is looked after so much more than the slow shUUng, and men are either unable or unwilUng to invest their capital in a safe but slow speculation, it is hardly likely that this proper system wUl be introduced into the management of the Swedish forests. What a country Sweden would then be in a hundred years hence ! This time must assuredly come, although we may not hve to see it. It is the want of proper manage ment that ruins these forests, quite as much as the axe. As Agardth properly observes, " If Sweden could only arrive at such a position, that our landed proprietors would no longer consider the land they hold as simple goods and chattels, or a mere matter of merchandise which they are FOEESTS. 43 ready to part with at a moment's notice (a circumstance owing to the fact of the hea-^y mortgage debts which encumber our land), but would consider their estates as a home for them selves, their children, and their children's children; then it is not only possible, but certain, that a proper attention would be paid to the culture of our forests. For experience has sufficiently proved that this very circumstance of regard ing estates in the mere Ught of marketable chattels, has been the greatest cause of destroying the private woods in Sweden." But after aU, private forests are only capital, which the holder has a right to make the most of, and it is a question -with a man, when he invests his capital in the purchase of a forest, which wUl give him the best retum for that capital, to let it lie in the forest under a hundred years' circulation, or whether he cuts do-wn aU his forest at once, and invests the produce of the timber at interest in other ways. According to Agardth, if the forest is divided into 120 years' circulation, it gives one-one-hundred-and-twentieth in come every year, or five-sixths per cent., and when we take from that the rent on the capital which is required to carry out the system, it will perhaps hardly give two-thirds per cent. This is Uttle more than what a common meadow will return. Still it appears to me that if I chose to cut down aU my forests, common prudence would dictate the expediency of planting them again, as the forest land -wUl be fit for little else. Moreover, in every forest there must be many trees not worth cutting down^and if these were allowed to stand, they would soon double their value, for at this very time, if a tree in the Wermland forests of twenty years' gro-wth (twenty feet long), which measures ten inches across the little end, is aUowed to stand ten years longer, its value wUl be double what it is now. In fact, no prudent forest owner would ever fell a tree until it measured twelve inches across the small end. But it seems that the mismanagement of the forests in many instances proceeds as much from laziness as from care- 4,i TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. lessness ; for I recollect in January, 1863, a tremendous storm swept over South Wermland from the west, and thousands of trees were blo-wn down in the forests just round us. Every one was complaining of the damage which the forests sus tained, and this was about all that many of them did. Had these trees been collected, lopped, topped, and barked — even if they had laid in the forests untUthey could have been driven out, they would have been worth something, but there in many forests these trees lie now just as they fell, with the bark on, rotting as fast as they can, and there they seem Ukely to lie, and there is no telUng what damage they may do to the growing forests by affording such a convenient harbour for every insect that preys upon timber. Another fruitful source of destruction to the forests is the keeping up of fences throughout the country. There are few hedges in Sweden ; in the south the fields are di-vided by broad dykes and mud banks, and the loss of land to the farmer by this plan is considerable, to say nothing of the hot-beds for weeds, which these dykes afford, for the farmer in the south never thinks of keeping his banks and dykes clean. But in aU the midland districts wooden fences are used, not as in England, ' a strong three-raUed fence which wUl stand a man's life, and keep a fat rushing buUock within bounds, but a close snake- fence, formed by driving into the ground two upright posts about ten or twelve feet high opposite each other and at about four feet distance, and then sticking spUt rough rails of about ten feet length in a slanting horizontal position above each other closely packed together to form a close fence about four feet high. Putting aside the expense and trouble of keeping up such a fence, no thing can be uglier (for the upright posts stand over the fence at aU heights to four feet) ; in fact, they quite spoil the appearance of the country, and I fancy that no fence in the world could be worse adapted to this cUmate, for being close, the snow banks up against them, and often breaks them down in lengths of fifteen or twenty yards. Moreover, FOEESTS. 45 they seem to be always out of repair, and give the country quite a shabby appearance, and as the upright posts are often rotten at the bottom, a six-months' old calf can shoot through them in many places just as he could through a sheet of brown paper. These fences are only calculated to last twenty years. And now let us see according to Bishop Agardth's calculation, what an expense they are to the landholder, and what a quan tity of valuable wood goes to their maintenance. Taking the value of a fathom of wood as it stands in the forests at 3 rqr., and reckoning each such fathom as three feet long, six feet broad, and six feet high, and using upon the average four trees, and calculating that this fathom of wood will furnish three loads of long wood, each being sufficient for five fathoms of fencing, then, each fathom of fencing will cost 20 6., and adding 10 6. per fathom for labour, we may reckon in round numbers the total cost of such fencing at 30 6., or about 4d. per fathom. Sweden is di-vided into hemmans or mantals, after which the size and the relative value of an estate is reckoned; a whole hemman being the limit of this reckoning, after which the hemman is divided into one-half or one-fourth mantals, meaning in the olden time as large a piece of land as would support a man and his famUy, whence the name is derived. In Sweden there are 65,000 whole hemmans, and they calculate that each hemman has to keep up 4700 fathoms of fences, which, reckoning that a fence stands for twenty years, gives us 235 fathoms every year, at an expense of 12 sk., or 3d. per fathom at the lowest, or 59 rqr. per hem man, or 2,000,000 rix-doUars yearly, for maintaining the fences of aU .the 65,000 hemmans. For the 65,000 hem mans 305,500,000 fathoms of fencing are required, and 60,000,000 trees great and small -will be annuaUy consumed in keeping them up. To remedy this dreadful waste, the only plan, as Agardth observes, would be to plant -wiUow or saUow fences which will grow on all cultivated lands. I see now that many gen tlemen are impro-ving the style of fences on their estates. 46 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. and substituting neat three-rail fences for these unsightly snake fences ; but as for the Swedish peasant of the present generation it can never be expected that he will deviate from the fashion of his forefathers. In burning the yearly amount of charcoal in 1854, which then amounted to 1,986,530 loads, of 12 barrels to the load, 5,221,126 tunnland of forest were used. This is 225 Swedish square mUes, at an average of 4^ tunna charcoal per tunn land. Strom reckons,, that 7 cubic feet of wood is required for every tunna of charcoal. In 1863 the export of timber from Sweden was as follows : — Beams (Bjelkar) square timber of all lengths above 8 in. square; and Balks (sharrar) small square timber of all lengths, 751,731 pieces. The price of beams in the London Market in 1863, was 50s. to 52s. per load; of balks, 35s. to 45s. per load. Boards of all dimensions of fir, and pine plank, or plank deals 3 X 11 and 3x9 in., 1,938,423 dozens; of these 1,882,000 pieceswent to England, and the price in the London Market was £7 to £8 per Petersburg standard. Deal ends, 508,560 dozens; masts, spars, and poles, etc., 21,258 dozens; tar, 117,873 barrels. In 1854, which was the largest export year perhaps ever kno-wn, the value of the export of timber from Gothenburg alone amounted to 18,150,000 rqr. rmt., or above one million pound sterling, and the prices free on board at that port were as follows (and they are about the same in 1864) : — Boards and Planks under 1-^ in. thickness, 7 rqr. per dozen; 1-|- to 3 in. thickness, 15 rqr. per dozen; larger dimensions, 30 rqr. per dozen. Deal Ends 3 feet long, li in. thick, 1 rqr. 6 sk. (Is. 3d.) per dozen ; 3 feet long, li to 3 in. thick, 2 rqr. ; 8 feet long, under 1^ in. thick, 2 rqr. 16 sk. ; 12 feet long, 1-i-to 3 in. thick, 4 rqr. Square Timber over 8 in. square, and smaU square timber, 5 in. square, 3 rqr. per piece ; 8 in. square, 4 rqr. 24 sk. ; 8 in. to 10 in. square, 6 rqr. FOEESTS. 47 The export from Sweden to the London market in 1863, was worth £317,416. The prices in the Wermland forest in 1864, for timber to be delivered, free on board, at the nearest station, were as follows : — Tirriber 22 feet long, 12 in. across at the small end, 46 rqr. to 56 rqr. per dozen (ToLfter) ; 11 in. across, 25 per cent, less ; 10 in. across, 50 per cent. less. Sleepers 4^ feet long, 8 in. across at the smaU end, about 4d. each; 9 in. across, about 5d. each; 10 in. about 7d. each. Lath wood of pine for sphtting laths, per cubic fathom of 216 feet EngUsh, 3 to 6 feet long, 55 rqr.; 8 feet long, 72 rqr. (including cost of cutting and carrying, at least 15 rqr. per fathom) ; and this is worth in the London market £7 to £8 10s. Oars. — Rough hewn, 30 feet long, 8 in. blade, 3 rqr. per pair; and out of this we must deduct about lOd., the cost of cutting and transport. Pit Props 12 feet long, 3 in. across at the smaU end, about lid. each ; 24 feet long, 6 in. at the small end, about 9d. each; of these latter they are now cutting and exporting mUlions to England yearly. Nothing ruins the forest like cutting lath wood and these pit props, for nothing but the very best and straightest pines, free from knots, -wiU do for lath wood, and the waste of the young timber in pit props. is dreadful. One great drawback to the forest owner in Sweden, is the great expense of transporting his timber out of the forest to the nearest harbour. That the prices of timber in the forest district are little enough, wUl be proved by the foregoing table, and from these -we have to deduct the cost of felhng and trimming the trees in the forest, and the dri-ving them do-wn to the nearest harbour, often at some little distance. The EngUsh reader has only to compare the prices of timber in England with this list, and he will then see how very Uttle of the cost goes into the pocket of the forest owner. 48 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. If the forests were managed properly as before suggested, it would not be of so much consequence, for the clearings of the forest would be used for pit props at least. Reckoning after 5 rqr. per fathom, a cubic foot of wood -will scarcely be worth more than 2 sk. rmt. ; but a cubic foot of timber wiU be worth about 16 sk., and when it is sawed into planks, about 24 sk. ; so this proves the foUy of Cutting small timber. Pire wood, ready split, delivered at the nearest harbour, per cubic fathom (144 cubic feet) — ^Birch, about 18 rqr; pine, 8 rqr; fir, 6 rqr. The freight from the north of the Lake Wener down to Gothenburg, is about 5d. per fathom. The principal tar comes down from the Norrland forests on the Bothnia, where very little charcoal is burned, bat in the winter we saw charcoal burning going on in every forest. I never saw any tar made in Wermland, except for home consumption. Yery little fir, but principally pine, is used in burning tar. In the root and in the older wood, which in these forests they call "tyre," much " hartz " is coUected, on which account this tyre wood burns like taUow, and is used every where in the forest instead of candles. I never used it for this purpose, but for Ughting up a bush fire or leistering at night, I well know its value. This tar-making is greatly mismanaged, because it scarcely ever seems to pay for the labour. Twelve cubic eUs (two feet) of spUt tyre wood is supposed to give one tunna of tar. In Norrland, according to Ekman, in 1848, the cost of working a tunna in the forest, would come to 14 rqr. 42 sk., although its price at the leading place was scarcely ever 6 rqr. But I suppose a man's day's work in these wUd forests where the tar is burnt, is worth very little, and as he gets his tyre wood for nothing, it is almost all profit. The trees in these forests are subject to certain epidemics or diseases, and the attacks of many species of insects. The storm often passes over the forests, and blows down FORESTS. 49 thousands of trees, and now and then a fire rages in the summer, and sweeps do-wn many acres. I never had the luck to see a real good " bush fire " in Sweden. In the Norrland forests, I believe, these fires rage more or less during the whole summer in some part or other of the forests. Bishop Agardth so graphically describes the timber working in these northern forests, that I make no apology for inserting an extract here : — " As soon as the ground becomes frozen in the autumn, all the men U-ving in a forest district betake themselves to the woods, armed -with their axes and skeder, and pro-yided with meal, herrings, cheese, horses, sledges, and fodder. They have already dug some holes in the ground, about two feet deep, over which they have buUt a cover with an opening for the smoke. This sort of hut is called a kuja, and here the woodmen live through the winter, and seek their homes only on a Sunday. Every moming they go out into the woods to fell the timber, and drive it into heaps caUed ' tunnar.' As soon as the snow has become set, and the ice on the lakes bears, they draw the timber from the forest to the nearest draught of water, or to some place with a high perpendicular bank, called a ' lop,' down which they shoot the logs upon the ice. Among these workmen are a better class called timber markers, who superintend the whole work, and set the owners' names upon each log. The horses stand, through the whole winter, by the side of the huts without any shelter, nor do they appear in the least to mind it. All brandy and quarrelling among the men is strictly forbidden." The felling of the trees appears to be ' conducted with great waste. The workmen set about their work very carelessly. They never use a saw, always an axe. They never bend their backs to their work, but stand nearly upright, and consequently cut down the tree about four feet from the root, on which account the most valuable part of the timber, that is to say, the lowest part of the stem, is left in the ground and altogether lost. 50 TEN -YEAES IN SWEDEN. As the ice melts in the spring the stream carries with it the logs, which Ue upon the ice, do-wn to the river, into " liinsor " which are ready to receive them, and here each owner looks for his mark, collects his timber, binds them together in long timber rafts, sixty or seventy ahis long, and floats them down either to the saw- works or a harbour. These " lansor " are a sort of floating harbours to keep the timber at the side of the river, that it may not be carried down by the stream. A lot of trees are chained together by the ends, and placed across the stream to hem in all the logs which float do-wn within their boundary. Many thousand logs are thus coUected in great masses. It sometimes happens that these "lansor" break, then the trees are carried down the stream by hundreds, crush down anything that opposes them, and do not Test till they reach the still water in the lake, into which the river falls. One night in Carlstad, some years since, the inhabitants were wakened by the report of a cannon and the beating of drums, and as this is the signal of fire in the northem towns, they aU sprang up in great consternation ; but it was no fire. One of these " lansor " had sprung about two miles up the river Klar; the logs came tumbling down the stream one over the other Uke a shoal of sea monsters, but as soon as they reached the bridges they were stopped by the piles. Fresh logs were brought down every minute, which thundered like battering rams against the wooden wall, which was graduaUy becoming higher and higher, and there was every probabUity of the two bridges (one of which was the largest in Sweden, -with twelve arches) being carried away. The river kept rising and threatened an in undation to the town. By the exertions, however, of the inhabitants, who stepped out on the logs -with boat-hooks, and forced the timber through the arches, the bridges were saved and the timber which was carried down the stream floated into the Wener, and many weeks elapsed before it was recovered by the o-wners. It must have been a strange and wild scene on this night. A&EICULTUEB. 51 AGEICULTUBE. As I shall have occasion to go more deeply into this subject in a future chapter, I shall only here trouble the reader with a few statistical observations, but I may remark that although the export of corn is yearly on the increase, and great improvements are yearly being made in the system of agriculture throughout the land, Sweden can never, in my opinion, become a great corn exporting country. The cUmate, except just on the south and south-eastern coast, and the hard nature of the soil, both forbid it. The timber crop is the true harvest of the north, and if this is neglected, the loss can never be replaced by any amount of com that may be grown in Sweden. Still, the weU-doing of the country is all dependent upon a prosperous state of agriculture, and as nearly seven-eighths of the population Uve in the country, and are more or less interested in the culture of the soil, it behoves every Swede to do his best to uphold the plough, for it is my opinion that two-thirds of the farms in Sweden could be brought to bear much heavier crops if the land now under cultiva tion were made the most of. That there are great defects in the managementand farming of estates here cannot be denied. These defects can, however, be aU remedied, and doubtless, in ten year^, we shall see a decided improvement in the agricultural statistics of this country. But be this as it may, the Swedish farmer -will stiU have the climate and the nature of the soU to contend against, and in no other country that I know of, are capital, "practical experience, attention, energy, and do-wn right hard labour, more required in the management of a farm than in this. Sweden is no country for gentlemen farmers ¦without capital. Respecting the present state of agriculture here, it ap pears, from the statistics quoted below, that the import of dairy produce into Sweden in the year 1862, exceeded the 52 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. export to an alarming extent, and in nearly every article this import shows a decided increase. The export of corn is certainly on the increase, but it shows no very decided improvement, for it appears that in 1860, 10,950,378 cubic feet of aU sorts of corn were ex ported, and in 1863, 12,326,914 cubic feet. In 1862 the export exceeded the import by 5,181,436 cubic feet, the value of which, according to the editor of the " Stockholm Farming Magazine," could not be reckoned at more than 5,000^000 rqr., or in round numbers, £300,000 EngUsh. It is hard to say what is the area of cultivated land in Sweden, but we shall not perhaps, be very far -wrong if we reckon it at about 5,000,000 English acres, and this, in 1862, after producing corn enough for the supply of a popula tion of 4,000,000 people, left a yearly export, above the im port, to the value of £300,000. In 1863 the export of com from Sweden to London was : — Wheat, 744 quarters, at from 45s. Barley, 6249 quarters, at 28s. 6d., sho-wing a very great faUing off, for in 1860, 31,615 quarters were exported. Oats, 630,978 quarters, at 20s. In this year the export of oats into London from other countries, was 920,817 quarters; of these 40,808 quarters came from Norway. Thus, the export of oats into London from Sweden is over 40 per cent., against 21 per cent, from Russia, 17 per cent, from Denmark, and 8 per cent, from Prussia. The value of the oat export from Sweden to London alone in 1863 might be reckoned at £625,000. Although this cannot be considered as any very large export, it is great when compared -with that of former years, for previous to 1840 (about twenty-five years ago) Sweden was obUged to import every year considerably more corn than the country produced, and since that time the export has been gradually on the increase. Now let us turn again to Agardth on this important subject of produce and consumption. Writing in 1859, he says : — AaEICULTFEE. 53 " The population of Sweden ia the end of 1858, may be reckoned at 3,733,000 souls, who, after an average of two and a half tunna corn, and one tunna potatoes, yearly for each per son, -wUl, in roundnumbers, consume yearly8,710,000 tunna of corn, and 3,733,000 tunna of potatoes. For the dairies and stables we shaU require yearly 1,000,000 tunna corn and 750,000 tunna potatoes; and for the distiUery of 16,000,000 kanna of bran-vin, 392,000 tunna of corn and 1,091,000 tunna of potatoes; and the balance or surplus over the land's own requirements, which the production leaves (taken after the average of five years, 1852-57), comes to about 700,000 tunna, so that the total production of the land wiU be 10,802,000 tunna of corn and 5,574,000 tunna of potatoes. This result is, however, higher than that given us by the government statistics for 1851-55, viz., 9,778,370 tunna of corn, and 5,429,545 tunna of potatoes. " If we reckon that one tunna of potatoes is equal to one- third of a tunna of corn, and after this proportion reduce the potato crop, we find a corn production for the whole country of about 1 2,660,000 tunna, which, after five tunna per tunnland, gives us an area of arable or corn producing land of 2,532,000 tunnland. But, as on an average one- third of the arable land yearly lies fallow, so we must add one-third to the above total, which brings it to 3,376,000 tunnland (or 145 Swedish square miles). Other statistics, however, reckon it at 4,000,000 tunnland in 1864. This is not much in proportion to the whole area of the land com pared with other countries. In Great Britain it is reckoned that 16,000,000 tunnland are open arable land, and Bel gium, whose whole surface is less than that of either of the two Swedish provinces, Smaland or Dalaroe, has about 3,300,000 tunnland of open arable land. With the excep tion of Norway, there is, perhaps, no other country in Europe whose arable land occupies so small a proportion to its surface as Sweden." Wheat is very little grown in Sweden, the principal produce being rye and oats. 54 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. According to the Customs' returns in 1862, the export. and import of com, from Sweden, was as foUows : — BXPOET. 92,044 cubic feet of wheat. 225,648 „ lye. 1,086,225 „ barley and malt. 50,121 „ pease. 2,748 „ vetches. 37 „ mixed corn. 6,296,468 „ oats. Or, altogether, 7,753,291 cubic feet of cora, and 6,169 cwt. of meal. IMPOET. 120,384 cubic feet of wheat. 1,981,733 „ rye. 237,316 „ barley and malt. 90,755 „ pease. 635 „ vetches. 11 „ buck wheat. 7,268 „ oats. Or, altogether, 2,438,102 cubic feet of corn, and 229,090 c-wt. of meal. Supposing that one cwt. of meal answers to three-fifths of a cubic foot of unground corn, so we may reckon the export of corn at 7,756,992 cubic feet, and the import at 2,575,556 cubic feet. The export consequently exceeded the import by 5,181,436 cubic feet; but as this surplus chiefly consisted of oats, and a good deal of the imported corn must be reckoned as of more proportionate value than the exported, we cannot calculate safely that the surplus export was of more value to the land than about 5,000,000 rix-doUars, or less than £250,000 EngUsh. This export comes chiefly from Skane, West and East Gotland, and the four provinces around the lake Malar. The Swedish farmers are just now calUng loudly for pro- AGEICULTUEE. 55 tection, and I insert a capital letter on this subject, e-vidently, however, from the pen of a protectionist, which I copied from the Stockholm newspaper of February 25th, 1864. This -will, doubtless, be interesting to the British, as well as the Swedish political economist. It was entitled " What does a tunna of corn cost to produce in Sweden at the present time ?" I am induced to give a literal translation of it, without at aU answering for its correctness myself, but I never observed that it was contradicted. The writer says : — "The cultivated land in Sweden is little above four milUon tunnland (or not quite 5,000,000 EngUsh acres) ; according to Agardth the total area of Sweden is 3868 Swedish square mUes, and these he di-vides as foUows : — S-(fedisl 1 Square Miles. Cultivated land 85 Meadow and pasture 200 285 The four great lakes . . 82 Other lakes, etc. 416 FeUs, etc. . Forests • 1000 2085 3868 '^In 1860, the produce of the cultivated land was 16,171,780 tunna of com, and 8,000,000 tunna of bulbs (potatoes, turnips, etc). Taking eight tunna of potatoes as equivalent to one tunna of rye, the average produce of the whole land may be estimated at 435 tunna per tunnland (or less than three EngUsh quarters to the acre), and the medium price of aU the corn produced was that year 10 rqr. 67 6. per tunna, or say about 12s. 6d. for the English four bushels. " The cost of cultivating the land may be reckoned at one- half more than the cost of the com sown as seed, thus taking five-eights of a tunna at 6 rqr. 65 6. for seed, we have 9 rqr. 97 o. per tunnland for cost of labour. The cost of upholding houses and implements may generally be calculated at 2 rqr. 56 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. for every tunnland of cultivated land. The proportion of cultivated land to pasture is as one to three. "In 1856, the mortgage debts on all the estates through out Sweden amounted to 400,000,000 rix-doUars (or about £22,000,000 sterling), and these have certainly rather de creased than increased ; and at the rate of five per cent, the yearly interest of this debt charged upon the land wiU amount to 20,000,000 rqr., or on each tunnland of culti vated land 3 rqr. 32 6., besides 94 6. on each tunnland as the yearly interest on another debt, caUed the " Amor- tering Hypotheks Loan," which in 1858, amounted to about 1 14,000,000 rqr. These debts are principally charged on the south and midland districts. " Forsyth lays all the taxes on the land at about 20,000,000 rqr. yearly (including soldiers, state, church, poor, etc.) ; but these have much increased since his time. "The yearly consumption for 3,425,509 people (these have now, in 1864, increased to 4,000,000), besides half of the root produce (the -other half he gives to brandy distil ling), he reckons at 8,000,000 tunna of com, and 2,000,000 for the dairies and stables, or, making together, a yearly sum of 105,000,000 rqr. He allows a charge upon each hem man throughout the country for buying dairy produce, which the land cannot itself produce, as follows : — per lispund Butter lisp. 1 sk. 16 at rqr.10 Cheese 0 88 3) 3 Pork 0 37 33 5 Meat 0 59 33 4 rqr.10 0. 80 2 64 1 85 2 36 Which gives for the whole 65,000 hemmans, into which the country is di-vided, a yearly charge of — Butter . . . 650,000 Cheese . . . 189,000' Pork .... 120,000 Meat .... 153,000 1,112,000 rqs. d. 9 97 6 65 1 32 3 32 0 94 2 60 12 89 AGEICULTUEE. 57 Besides this are groceries, etc., which, as it is computed that those who Uve on land pay ninety per cent, of all the taxes, cannot be estimated at less than 50 rqr. on each household, or for all the land people 625,994 rqr. (In 1860 they reckoned for each household fifty-five lb. coffee, twenty-one lb. sugar, and one and a half tunna salt yearly.) "This gives us a yearly charge on every tunnland of land : — Cost of tUlage ..... Corn for so-wing .... Repairs, etc. ..... Interest on the mortgage loan Interest on the " Amortering Hy potheks Loan " .... Taxes of all kinds .... Cost of U-ving after deducting cost of cultivation .... 37 69 " It consequently foUows that the medium price of 1,06 tunna of corn must not be under 8 rqr. 86 6. if agriculture shall fiourish. But, as from 1854 to 1863 the medium price was only 8 rqr. 50 6., it is clear there must have been a loss." The reader must, however, bear in mind that this reckon ing is based upon the present produce of the land, at current prices. That prices wUl rise much within the next twenty-five years I do not expect, but that this 4,000,000 tunnland could be made to give a much better produce, and this at a trifiing further expense of cultivation after the land is once improved, I think I shall satisfactorily prove in my chap ter on the agriculture of the country. Allowing these state ments to be correct, and we have every reason to believe that they are, it is plain that aU the Swedish farmer has to trust to, is a better system of managing and farming his land. It is very unUkely that any rise will take place in the present prices of corn (except indeed in case of war) ; 58 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. whereas the price of labour is yearly rising in Sweden ; the' expense of U-raig is also increasing, -without any reference to the price of corn, or meat, and unless the land can be brought to bear better crops, by an improved system of hus bandry, it certainly does seem that the farmer will require some protection, and, in my idea, this protection Ues in a great measure in his own hands. Cattle breeding, and dairy produce, apparently stand at a very low figure in Sweden at the present day ; and this is the more to be wondered at, when we consider that mUk and butter, pork and wool, are such great items in the Swedish household economy among aU classes, and that according to Agardth, throughout Europe it is reckoned for every 100 persons there are 8 horses, 33 homed cattle, 80 sheep, and 16 pigs. Now in Sweden it appears in 1855 there were for every 100 persons 11 horses, 53 horned cattle, 44 sheep, and 16 pigs. So, with the exception of sheep, Sweden appears to have a very fair proportion. The total number of cattle in Sweden in 1855 was as follows : — Horses . . 398,507 at 200 rqr . each 79,701,400 Oxen . 311,830 „ 130 33 40,537,900 Cows . 1,112,295 „ 60 33 66,737,700 Young Cattle . 494,695 „ 30 >J 14,840,850 Sheep . 1,592,254 „ 10 33 15,922,540 Pigs . 564,134 „ 60 33 33,848,040 Goats . 172,926 „ 5 33 864,630 Reindeer . 86,945 „ 20 33 1,738,300 Total value . 254,191,360 Andalthough, doubtless, the numbersmayhaveproportionately increased -within the last nine years, stUl the value of the different cattle indi-dduaUy remains much about the same. The number of reindeer is only officially given in Lulea Lapland, but the reindeer is used in at least two other Lands — Umea, where in 1855 there were 143 Laps, and in Ostersund 47 Laps, who o-wned reindeer. AGEICIJLTUEE. 59 Calculating after the number of reindeer which each Lap in Lulea Lapland owned (120), and aUowing the same num ber to every Lap who owns them, which I think we can safely do, we may reckon the number of reindeer in the whole country as 110,000. The dairy produce of a cow in England, according to Agardth, may be reckoned at least double that of a Swedish cow, and the two miUions of horned cattle which are yearly slaughtered in Britain leave an average weight of meat of 588 lb., whUe the Swedish homed cattle which are slaughtered certainly do not on an average give more than 190 lb. of meat each. And this may be the case as the cows are usuaUy managed ; but it has been proved by trials — and all the best practical men -with whom I have spoken on this subject, have given it as their opinion — that -with proper food and proper care, the Uttle Swedish cows -will give more mUk in this country at a less cost than a large English cow wiU, if both are fed properly. There is no doubt, however, that the EngUsh breed of pigs and sheep are far better, and pay much better here than the Swedish, for on Gardsjo Mr. Stenstrom has told me that he has cUpped ten to fifteen lb. of wool in a year off a large EngUsh ram, and when kiUed the same ram weighed 160 lb. dead weight. There is no doubt, however, that the Swedish cattle can never bring anything Uke the weight of beef which the EngUsh -wiU. Agardth further observes that with improvement the value of the Swedish cattle, instead of being 260,000,000 rqr., might easUy be raised to 714,000,000 rqr. In 1860, little Denmark exported dairy produce to the value of 25,808,000 rqr., or more than the export of wrought iron and steel from Sweden, which in that year amounted to about 22,000,000 rqr. Now, according to Agardth, Skane and some two or three other lands in South Sweden are quite as productive as Denmark, which does not exceed them in size, and contains two and three- quarter milUons inhabitants. The average weight of wool from each sheep in England he puts at 4 lb. yearly, and on an average each sheep that 60 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. is slaughtered wiU give 85 lb. of mutton. In Sweden he says the average clip of wool will be about 2 lb., and the weight of mutton 20 lb. ; and I beUeve, as far as regards the peasants' sheep, this is correct. In 1862, the import of the foUo-wing articles of dairy produce, etc., exceeded the export (according to the Swedish " Farmer's Magazine ") : — Butter (import exceeded export by) 20,585 cwt. TaUow CheesePorkMeat Hides, dry salted 37,571 11,31424,486' 5,920 7,376 19,784 „ wet salted „ 22,522 Wool of aU kinds „ 2,658,298 lb. StiU, however, showing a decided improvement in every thing except pork, which was just double that of the preceding year. From the year 1849 to 1858, 172,000 tunnland of waste land were brought into cultivation; in the year 1860, 37,414 more ; and every year much waste land, mosses, and small forests come under the plough. The cost of bringing such land into cultivation is not much, and new land let thus (if only properly chosen) -wUl rear many crops -without manure. According to Malmstrom, however, the improvement of agriculture in Sweden has been followed by an increased mortgaging of estates throughout the whole country. It is not easy to say what is the actual amount of the mortgage debts advanced by the different mortgage (Hypotheks Lan) societies ; but it appears by the above-quoted article from the Stockholm newspaper of Feb. 25th, 1864, that in 1856 this debt amounted to about 400,000,000 rqr. (and it has doubtless much increased), and at the rate of 5 per cent, the yearly interest of this debt is 20,000,000 rqr. AGEICITLTUEE. 61 or on each tunnland of cultivated land throughout the country 3 rqr. 32 6. Malmstrom adds : — "From the year 1835 this mortgage debt has been steadily increasing, and this e-vidences a greater speculation in estates and an increased price, because usually a greater or lesser part of the purchase-money is allowed to remain on mortgage ; and to what a degree land speculation has risen in Sweden is proved by the fact that estates in the country in 1831 were sold for the amount of 23,000,000 rqr., in 1845 for 32,000,000 rqr., in 1855 for 67,000,000 rqr., in 1857 for 94,000,000 rqr., in 1858 for 67,000,000 rqr., and in 1859 for 64,000,000 rqr. The great increase in 1857 was o-wing to the fact that the harvests of the two previous years had been good, prices had temporarily risen, and people were literaUy mad to buy estates. Now, however, there is not nearly so much speculation, and estates have consequently fallen in value. The great increase in land speculation, as well as in the amount of the mortgage debt, is owing to the facility of borro-wing money which was furnished to the buyers of estates by hypothek (or mortgage) companies, the first of which, that in Skane, was estabUshed in 1836. Now there are ten such companies. These, however, are all amalga mated into one Hypotheks' Bank, which furnishes money to the others, and regulates their operations. In 1861 the then existing hypotheks institutions lent out 75,782,457 rix- doUars. Well may Agardth remark that " want of capital is an old complaint in Sweden, and we have from time out of mind en deavoured to help ourselves by borrowing. But the loan must be repaid, and our produce has never yet been able to keep pace with our obligations, much less to encourage us in employing new capital. Our products quickened for a time by this false support, have, as soon as it has been withdrawn, relapsed again into an imbecUity even greater than that from which they have just sprung, and a need of fresh obligations has returned only the more pressing, and has been the more severely felt, because to poverty is now added debt. Is it 62 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. possible that even to this day, we must continue to have re course to a practice so costly and yet so often repeated." But I shall have occasion, in my chapter on the agricul ture of the country, to enter more fully into this subject. Commerce and manufactures are both yearly increasing. Since 1854, a much freer system of trade has been introduced into the country, and the free-traders say, and they are probably right, that this has had a very beneficial effect upon commerce. In fact, I believe that now no foreign articles are forbidden to be imported. The Customs duties have also been greatly lessened. In 1840, the value of articles manufactured in Sweden was estimated by the Customs at 21,000,000 rqr. ; in 1850, at 37,000,000 rqr. ; m 1860, at 59,000,000 rqr. The workpeople employed in the various manufactories in 1840, amounted to 15,410; in 1850, to 23,427; andin 1860, to 30,757. Before the American war broke out, the cotton spinneries held the first rank among Swedish manufactories ; the value of their manufactured cotton goods being in 1860, 12,182,000 rqr., in which 4021 hands were employed. The value of cloth manufactured in the country in that year was 9,190,000 rqr. which employed 2981 hands. The value of the sugar refined in the country was 11,925,000 rqr. It is only since 1861 that the distUlery of " Branvin," the common brandy of the country, from rye and potatoes, has been taken under the control of govemment. Formerly any private person could distil. Brandy was much cheaper and easier to procure, and the consumption, among the lower classes especially, was something frightful. Twenty years ago Branvin was used in the country like money as a circulating medium among the peasants. In fact, at that time they had Uttle or no money, for the whole produce of their farms, rye and potatoes, was consumed in the distiUeries, and but Uttle went to market. Branvin was indeed the staff of life. The English reader wUl be surprised to hear that at that time landed proprietors (most of whom o-wned private distiUeries) have been known to pay their servants' wages in brandy. The consumption of brandy has certainly, of late years, COMMEECE AND MANXJFACTUEES. 63 however, much decreased, and most of the better classes now endeavour, by aU means in their power, to reform the -vice of drunkenness among the lower orders, and except at fairs, auctions, and private joUifications, we do not often see a drunken peasant. In 1863, however, 16,202,557 kanna of brandy were returned from the different distUleries in the country, and putting this on an average at retail price, of about 2s. per kanna or four bottles, the consumption of corn brandy alone in Sweden (and I never heard that any was exported from the country), covered a sum of no less than 32,000,000 of rix- doUars, aUowing about four kanna or about two and a half gaUons for every man, woman, and chUd in the country. Besides this, we must consider the quantity of -wine and foreign spirits imported into the country. We must, however, take into consideration that this brandy has not more than half the strength of any other spirit. Its strength at the distUlery being 50 per cent. There are now, however, some very, good porter and bitter beer breweries in the country, and much more ale and porter is annuaUy drunk than formerly; but I always fancied the bottled beer very dear, as compared to the EngUsh, and not half so strong or good. In Great Britain, I beUeve the yearly consumption of spirits is reckoned at three-fourths of a gallon, or about one Swedish kanna for each person. In Prussia three gallons. In California, a few years since, the consumption was reckoned at 5000 gaUons of spirits daily, or one-sixth of a gaUon for each person. Could this be possible ? I do not, however, think that the actual taste for raw spirits among the lower classes (especiaUy of the old school) has much abated ; but there is now much more difficulty in procuring it, especiaUy in the country, than formerly. There are plenty of " sly grog-shops " scattered about the forests, which seem to answer, although the fine is heavy when they are con-victed. They teU me that Carlstad jail would have " lodgings to let," if it were not for these Ulicit vendors of branvin. 64 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. It is a curious thing that we very rarely see a Swedish gentleman much the worse for Uquor. They take their social glass, but they do not drink in the business-like manner of the EngUsh. They appear to be in possession of the famous secret which an old incorrigible friend of mine once told me he had been sixty years trying to discover. "He always knew," so he told me, "when he had drunk too Uttle, and also when he had drunk too much, but never when he had drunk just enough." The laws against drunkenness in Sweden are rather severe, but very little heeded except in towns. It is clear that a very great' change has been effected for the better -within the last twenty years in the habits and condition of the Swedish peasant ; and I believe much is o-wing to the increased difficulty of procuring spirits except in towns ; for we all know — " What Shakspeare observes, in his play of King John, Is undoubtedly right ; That oft times the sight Of means to do iU deeds, will make ill deeds be done." Much more attention is paid to the education of their children, which is proved by the number of priests ia Sweden, who have risen from the ranks of the peasants. In 1861, 56,861 persons were employed throughout the land in handicraft. The inland commerce, which was formerly hampered -with many restrictions, is now free : and in 1860, 1929 small vessels of 70,000 EngUsh tons burden were employed in transporting goods up and down the country, and in the coasting trade. But much of the inland commerce is carried on by smaU steamers, the total number of which in 1860 was 203, of about 9,332 horse-power. The foreign commerce shows a decided increase -within the last few years. The total value bf exported and imported goods into this country in 1835 was taxed at 51,000,000 of rix-doUars; in 1840, at 58,000,000- rqr.; in 1850, at 73,000,000 rqr. ; and in 1860, at 169,000,000 rqr. IMPOETS AND EXPOETS. 65 The principal exports from Sweden, as we have already shown, are timber, iron, and oats, and the principal imports into the country are sugar, coffee, cotton, wool, hides, salt, and tobacco. In 1860, 35,707,000 lb. of raw, and 3,671,000 lb. of refined sugar, and of coffee 15,000,000 lb. were imported, being just treble the imports of twenty years back. It is curious to see how the taste for coffee has increased in these northem climes during the last century. In 1740, when the popplation of Sweden amounted to 1,615,000 people, the consumption of coffee was only 13,701 lb., and of sugar 1,675,034 lb. In 1860, the yearly consumption was, of coffee, above 4 lb. and of sugar 10 lb. to every person in the country. But tea and -wine are not much drunk in Sweden, the consumption in 1860 being, of tea 0.02 lb. and of wine 0.16 kanna to each person. In Norway the con sumption of coffee is even greater, being about 8 lb. yearly to each person. The tea wliich you generally get here, is, as they very properly caU it, in comparison to what we brew in England, "¦ tea-water ;" but they can make you a good cup of coffee. The import of salt in 1860 was above 2,000,000 cubic feet; wool, 2,500,000 lb. ; tobacco blade, 4,000,000 lb. In that year the principal exports were as foUows : — 1,390,000 dozen boards and planks; 620,000 dozen beams; of bar iron, 2296 cwt.; of corn, 10,850,000 cubic feet; and of lucifer matches 433,745 rqr. in value. The Custom duties in aU amounted, in 1860, to 13,422,000 rix-doUars ; of which sugar paid 3,333,000 rqr. ; cloth, 2,400,000 rqr. ; coffee, 1,515,000 rqr. ; tobacco, 1,333,000 rqr. The value of the principal imports in 1860 was reckoned as follows : — rqr. Sugar .... 12,100,000 Cottonwool . . . 10,200,000 Coffee .... 9,100,000 Cloth .... 7,000,000 5 66 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. rqr. Tobacco .... 6,100,000 Hides .... 4,900,000 Fish .... 4,500,000 Coal .... 3,800,000 The greatest foreign trade is with England. The total value of export into that country in 1860 from Sweden was 42,000,000 rqr., which included more than half of their bar iron and two-thirds of their com. The value of the import from England, into Sweden in the same year was taxed at 16,500,000 rqr., which included 7,000,000 lb. cotton wool and 11,770,000 cubic feet of coal. The next greatest import was from Lubeck. The burden or tonnage of the Swedish merchant fleet in 1860 was reckoned at 154,342 last, besides an inland fleet of canal boats and coasters of 20,608 last. Another fruitful source of riches to this land seems hardly made the most of. I allude to the fisheries. A curious feature in the icthyology of these coasts is the appearance of the herrings at irregular seasons, and their sudden disappear ance without any apparent cause. In the beginning of 1300 they appeared on these coasts in immense shoals, but shortly disappeared, and few were again seen until 1556. The largest herring fishery ever kno-wn off these coasts was in 1587. After that, however, they were not again seen in any numbers till 1660; and in 1675, when the war -with Norway broke out, they altogether disappeared. In 1727 they came back, but there seems to have been then neither men nor nets on the coasts to take them. They disappeared, butretumed again in 1747, remained off the coasts tUl 18G8, when they went away, and have never since been seen in any great numbers. It is true there is every year a small catch of herrings off the southem coast of Skane; and in Norway the herring fishery is a yearly source of profit. The yearly export of herrings from Norway even now reaches about 585,000 tunna. FISH. 67 of which 550,000 tunna are winter, and 35,000 tunna summer herrings. But 1787 appears to have been the greatest season for herrings off the Swedish coast, when Gothenburg something resembled Melbourne in the early days of the gold diggings- On the Gothenburg coast alone in this year the fishermen, ac cording to Nilsson, smoked above 4000 tunna, salted 400,000 tunna, pressed 2,000 tunna, and boiled down for oU about 1,066,000 tunna, (which yielded 44,000 casks of oU), or, con sequently, 1,472,000 tunna herrings ; and adding those that were consumed or sold in a fresh state, it was calculated that in that year above 1,500,000 tunna of herrings were taken off the Bohus Land coast, just outside Gothenburg ; or reckoning the usual number of 1000 to the tunna, about 1,500,000,000 herrings ; being, however, a very smaU propor tion of the immense shoals which then frequented these coasts. Many speculations have been hazarded respecting the cause of the almost total disappearance of the herrings from these shores, the two most feasible of which seem to be the casting out into the sea, during the great herring fishery, of the refuse from the oil-melting and salting-houses, and the immense destruction of small herrings by the use of the large nets called here "vaderne." These herring- nets, until 1852, were ninety fathoms long, and six fathoms deep, and so fine that they had forty meshes to every two feet ; but now it is not allowed to use a net of more than forty fathoms long, four fathoms deep, and the meshes must be one inch from knot to knot. Every endeavour to bring back the herrings to these coasts since 1808 appears to have entirely failed, and about 60 to 100,000 tunna of smaU herrings is the yearly catch at the present day ; but, as we have said before, in Norway the herring fishery stUl affords a good source of revenue. The deep sea fishery grounds of the Bohus Land fisher men is a bank named " Jadems Ground," lying in the North Sea about sixty Swedish miles from Marstrand, and fifteen from Bgersund in Norway. The fishermen sail out to this bank, and are probably absent a raonth, but as they 68 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. formerly had no means on board to salt their fish, the fishery was of little value. In 1861, however, fourteen companies were established in Gothenburg to carry on the fishery properly. It seems that according to an old treaty in Charles Tenth's time, the Bohus Land fishermen have a right to fish on the Scottish banks with 1000 boats yearly. The prin cipal catch in the deep sea fisheries are cod, ling, halhbut and coal fish. But the best bank for the Swedish fishermen, because it is nearer home, lies off the Scaw in the north of Jutland. The boats go out for a week's cruise; each boat has six men, and if they are pretty lucky, they will bring back thirty " valar," or three hundred cod and Ung in each boat, worth probably, when dried, 12 rqr. per valar. These dried fish are called " kUpp " and " kabelja." But even the large fish have decreased in numbers on these coasts since the herring fishery, for at that time one hundred valar in one boat was not uncommon. Formerly the mackerel, lobster, and oyster fisheries on this Bohus Land coast, were something considerable, now, however, they yield very Uttle profit. In 1836, not less than 63,544 score of lobsters were ex ported from the Swedish coast, but the fishery gradually fell off till 1865, when the export was only 1977 score. Since then, it has rather risen, and in 1860, 6460 score were exported. But the principal part of the lobsters which are consumed in London, come from Norway, and it is reckoned that the English and French coast do not produce one half so many as those of Norway. It is said that for lobsters alone exported to England, the Norwegians receive £15,000 yearly. According to Agardth it is reckoned that the yearly consumption of fish in London, including sheU-fish, araounts to above 4,000,000 lb. Forraerly the oyster fisheries yielded something consider able, now, however, the import exceeds the export. The coasts of Aland and Gotland in the Baltic, are rich in fish, especially stromming (smaU herrings about eight inches long), cod, and flounders ; but these fisheries are gradually FISH. 69 decreasing. The salmon fisheries in all the rivers on the southern and eastern coast, have considerably decreased of late years, and this they say is owing to the rivers becora ing shallower and shaUower, so that there is scarcely now a good place left where a net can be shot. At the present tirae, not a single whaler sails out of any Swedish port, although previous to 1780, a corapany of whalers existed in Gothenburg. The fresh water fisheries in the south and raiddle of Sweden, are of but little value to the State. When we look upon this country, with such an immense extent of coast, and one-eighth of its surface occupied by inland lakes and abounding with such fine rivers, we should naturaUy suppose that it would be one of the richest lands in Europe, for both salt and fresh-water fish. But so far from this being the case, this immense extent of water instead of exporting largely, does not supply enough for the wants of 4,000,000 people. The export of fish, like that of the dairy produce, is not only totally insignificant, but it is only of late years that it has shown the least improvement. On the other side, however, the import gradually increases till it has at length become a serious article in the economy of the country; for in 1860, the iraport of cod and heiTings alone amounted to no less a sum than 3,600,000 rqr., or £200,000 sterUng. In 1815, only 162,565 Uspund of dry and smoked fish, and 550,000 Uspund of salt fish were imported ; but in 1860, the import of dried fish reached 271,825 hspund, and of salt fish 2,798,800 lispund, so that the increase in the import in forty-five years has been 67 per cent, of the former, and 409 per cent, of the latter. Now the principal part of this import might surely have been obtained off their own coasts, or if not, other fish pecu liar to the Swedish fresh or salt waters raight have been substituted, and this hea-vy iraport from other lands have been saved. Off theLofodenlslands on the Norwegian coast, the greatest cod fishery in Europe is stUl carried on. From 1850 to 1855 , the yearly number of fishermen employed in this fishery was 70 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. about 22,000, with 4500 boats ; and the yearly number of fish caught amounted to about 20,000,000, besides 20,000 tunna of oU, and as much of roe, amounting together in value to 1,000,000 specie dollars or 4,000,000 rix-doUars. The usual catch of herrings off the Norwegian coast is 7,800,000 tunna yearly. The yearly export of this fish from Norway has during the present century been pretty even, and, in 1858, it amounted to 515,677 tunna. The total yearly worth of the Norwegian fisheries amounts to about 12,000,000 rix-doUars. Although rich in many species of wild animals and game, it is never Ukely that the export of either skins or game from Sweden can hold any weight in the state's econoray. We find, in 1815 (since which time this branch of comraerce has not been strictly noted) not less than 20,708 skins of -vnld animals were imported into the country, among which were 452 bear skins, 9096 wolf and fox skins, and 280 sable, besides others to the amount of 24,0;40 rqr., whilst the export only araounted to 3896 skins, araong which were twelve bear, 1826 wolf and fox, 149 dozen squirrel, and 218 ermine, besides other skins to the value of 1600 rqr. In 1859, the import was 37,990 lb. of prepared skins, besides skins sewed together to the amount of 10,842 rqr., whUst the export was 7319 Ih. of prepared skins. In 1860, the iraport was 54,067 lb., besides furs to the araount of 3020 rqr., whUe the export amounted to 21,939 lb. I cannot think where all the reindeer skins go to. It appears that the yearly average of bears killed in Sweden from the year 1849 to 1859 araounted to 117 Wolves T T \JL V CS5 . Lynxes 1 U^ 110 Foxes .... 5396 Martens 394 Otters .... 246 Weasels 1140 Seals .... 2323 Eagles, falcons, hawks 1908 Owls .... 1013 WILD ANIMALS. 71 This table is taken from the returns of the head rangers in the different provinces, who pay a certain sum for every beast and bird of prey kiUed. Probably raany more were kUled of which no retum was given. This retum however, shows a faUing off from pre-vious years, and I fancy annually decreases, especiaUy in the larger and -wUder animals. It seems that Norway and Finland are both richer than Sweden in animals and birds of prey; for, in Norway, between the years 1851 and 1855, the yearly average of bears kiUed was 203; wolves, 228; lynxes, 115; eagles, about 3000. In Fmland, from the end of 1848 to 1850, 362 bears, 1995 wolves, 4352 foxes, 201 lynxes, and 191 gluttons were returned. According to the Swedish " Sporting Magazine" for 1863, the loss sustained from -wild animals throughout the whole country in five years, 1856 — 1860, was as follows : — rqr. 336 horses, at 100 rqr. . . 33,600 1556 horned cattle, at 50 rqr. 31,752 sheep and goats, at 3 rqr. 144 pigs, at 8 rqr. 29,160 chickens, geese, etc., at 50 6. 1906 reindeer at 6 rqr. 77,800 95,256 1,152 14,58011,436 233,824 And the " vermin money" paid out by the different pro- -vinces for -wUd aniraals kiUed amounted to about 110,000 rqr. in the five years. Strange as it may appear, the import of game and birds for the table into Sweden is very considerable. Until about the year 1852, there was not a raUway in Sweden, the principal part of the inland traffic and carriage being carried on by water ; and on account of its numerous lakes and rivers no country in Europe can be better adapted for water carriage than Sweden. In 1852, the first railway was commenced in the middle of Sweden frora Koping on the Lake Malar to Hidt. This, however, was never 72 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. finished, and is, I beUeve, in the hands of some Englishmen. In 1863, the main Une from Gothenburg to Stockholm, forty -two and a half Swedish miles, was finished at a cost of 34,654,285 rqr. (or about 2,000,000 EngUsh pounds for 280 English miles), and the traffic on this Une during its first year has been considerable. It is contemplated to form a branch line from MaUno in the very south of Sweden through the country to join this main Une about half way between Gothenburg and Stockholm. This branch is already com pleted from Malmo to Falkoping (about fourteen Swedish miles), and it is expected that in 1866 the whole line -wiUbe coraplete. Another branch is in progress from Arvika, a little town which lies north-west of the Wener, a few miles frora the Norwegian frontier, to join the main line also, and to pass through Wermland by Carlstad and Christinehamn. This wUl scarcely be completed under three years, but when these two branches are finished an exceUent Une of coraraunication -wUl be opened throughout Sweden, and no thing in ray opinion -wiU tend to develope the resources of this country so much as railroads. Already dUigences run . from Carlstad and other to-wns to meet the main hne, and travelling in Sweden will soon be very different to what it was in the glorious old days of conveyance by the peasants' carts, one Swedish mile per hour, and about one hour to wait for each fresh relay of horses. The tirae occupied, between Gothenburg and Stockholm by the quick train is about eleven hours, for 280 Enghsh mUes, including stoppages. The fares are — 1st class, 31 rqr. 95 6; 2nd class, 21 rqr. 30 6; 3rd class, 10 rqr. 65 6. These three railways are aU govemment works, but there is a private line frora Fahlun to Gefle, about eight Swedish miles, which pays better than any other. Telegraph wires are fixed aU through the country, even up to Haparanda. The post in Sweden is excellently conducted, and even in the days of old, when the bags were carried throughout the whole land by a single postUUon in a peasant cart, maU robberies were not so often heard of as might have been POST. 73 expected. I never, out of the many hundreds which have been sent to me, or which I have sent away, lost a single letter that I know of. One universal rate of postage, 12 6. (or a Uttle raore than one penny EngUsh) is adopted through out the whole country, and postage stamps are used, Uke the EngUsh. The post frora England is much cheaper and raore ex peditious than formerly. A single postage to and from England and any part of Sweden is Is., and the letters can be either prepaid or not. In the winter the mails are sent by Hamburg, and the letters are one week or ten days on the road, but from the beginning of March tUl Noveraber, the EngUsh maUs are brought by steamers " via HuU," and if a letter is posted in London on the Friday, I can receive it up at Carlstad on the Wednesday foUo-wing. Newspapers also corae very regularly, and when they are properly stamped in England, and sent -via Hull, they come up for about Id. postage on deUvery, but in the winter, when they are sent -via Belgium or Hamburg, there is no saying where they may travel or what they -will cost when they arrive. I reaUy have received them -with so raany post marks that the address has been scarcely legible. Money letters should be registered in England; in Sweden we caU it " recommended." If the letter is simply recommended, -without stating the value of the enclosure, and lost, you can only recover the amount of 100 rqr., but if you show the contents to the post-master, government is liable for the whole amount. It is wonderful what an im mense deal of money is sent yearly about Sweden through the post. Books can also be sent to and from England by the book-post. THE EIVEES AND LAKES. As may be supposed, these are both numerous and large, although in length the rivers wUl not bear coraparison with those in raany other parts of Europe. There is not a single river in Sweden or Norway above 300 EngUsh mUes long. 74 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. The largest rivers in the north of the country are — the , Tornea River, 42 Swedish mUes long ; Umea and Lulea River, 38; Pitea River, 31 ; SkeUeftea, 34; Angerman River, 35; Liusnan, 32. All these flow into the Baltic. There is not a river of any size in the south of the country. The great Tana River, which di-vides Sweden from Nor wegian Lapland, is a magnificent stream, and flows into the Polar Sea, a Uttle to the east of the North Cape. The scenery of some of the rivers, especiaUy in the far north, is magnificent. The two principal rivers running through the middle of the country, are the Klar and the Dal. The Dal rises on the Norwegian feUs, flows for about forty- two Swedish miles, in an easterly direction, through the grandest and most picturesque tracts of Sweden, and enters the Bothnia at Gefle. The Klar also rises in the same fells, but a Uttle more to the south, flows through Wermland in a southerly direction for about thirty Swedish railes, and enters the Lake Wener at Carlstad. The outlet of the Wener is at Wenersborg, twelve Swedish miles to the south by the River Gotha, which runs down to Gothenburg, seven Swedish mUes from Wenersborg. Thus the Klar River may be said to be forty- nine Swedish miles long, or the longest river in Sweden. The raeadows both on the sides of the Gotha and the Wener, are, in some places, rich and fertUe, but very Uable to flooding. The country on the sides, and to the south of the Wener is weU peopled. The celebrated falls and sluices of TroUhatta are on the Gotha River, about six Swedish mUes from Gothenburg. This faU is altogether 111 feet from top to bottom, but it is divided into several faUs, its length being in aU 600 fathoms. It is a grand faU, and owes quite as much to the romantic scenery which overhangs them, as to the magnitude of the falls themselves. The traveller on the steamboat has much to admire here, both in the natural grtodeur of the faUs and in the ingenuity of man as shown in the formation of the sluices, which run parrallel to them, in order to convey vessels from the bottom to Lake Wener above; with- EIVEES AND LAKES. 75 out these the navigation of the Wener would be entirely closed. There is also a raagnificent faU on the Dal River, called Elf Karleby. But here nature reigns pararaount, and raan has not yet interfered to surmount this obstruction. Except in the very north, however, the waterfalls on the Swedish rivers have little grandeur, and serve only as obstructions to the na-vigation. It has been observed that the Swedish rivers are far less winding in their courses than those of other countries. When we consider that the lakes and rivers occupy at least one-eighth part of the surface of the whole land, we are not surprised at the nuraber of inland lakes which are met -with here. In one parish of Norrland, there are said to be raore lakes than days in the year. Many, however, are of inconsiderable size, but some — the Wener, Wetter, Malar, Siljan — are raagnificent sheets of water. The Wener, which Uek about 145 feet above the surface of the sea, is about fourteen Swedish railes long and seven broad, and covers an area of forty-eight Swedish square railes. Its greatest depth is 302 feet. The next in size is the Wetter, which lies parallel to the Wener on the south-eastern coast. Its length is fifteen Swedish miles, its breadth four, and it covers an area of seventeen Swedish square miles. It is the deepest lake in Sweden, -viz., 420 feet. The bottom of this lake is of a different formation to that of the Wener, and its fish and Crustacea are very dissimilar. The Malar, on the east end of which Stockholm stands, is twelve Swedish miles long, eight and a half broad, and it is computed that 1300 little islands are scattered over its surface. You scarcely ever see a gentleman's estate, especially in the middle or north of Sweden, where the dwelling house is not situated either near a river or a lake, which not only adds much to the beauty of the scenery, but is of no little value in the household economy, from the plentiful supply of fish which it pro-vides. It is true, they are generally of 76 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. the coarser kinds, for trout and gwnynniad are confined to the larger lakes. The Swedish monarchy is the oldest in Europe, for they date its foundation about 600 a.d., under its first king, Ingiald. The governraent is a liraited raonarchy; liberal without being in the least despotic; in fact the Swedes seem to enjoy perfect freedom, both in speech and press. All the four estates are represented in parliament, the representatives being chosen equally from the nobility, the clergy, the burghers, and the peasants. A reform in the representation is, however, now in contemplation. The present king, Charles XV., is, as he deserves to be, popular with all classes, and just the stamp of king to rule over such a nation as the Swedes. Simple and unaffected, firm but not overbearing, easUy accessible, possessing talents of no mean order, of a manly, handsome personal appearance — he is a favourite with aU classes, and I consider Sweden, just at the present tirae, one of the happiest countries in Europe. Tom by no internal factions ; troubled with no foreign possessions ; governed by a king who appears to have his subjects' welfare at heart, and by laws which are just and equitable, -without being unduly severe; -without a foreign eneray ; with an increasing coraraerce, and a country gradu ally, although slowly irapro-ving, — the Swedes raay ahnost be said to live together like a happy family, and although they are poor in comparison with the inhabitants of other large European nations, I doubt if many a richer country might not well envy them. The reUgion, which is strictly Lutheran, was introduced by Gustaf Vasa in the sixteenth century, and there appear to be no dissenters. It is true there are a few CathoUcs and Jews in the country, and a class called " Lasare," or readers, which seems to be much on the increase. These latter can hardly, however, be called dissenters, because I never 'heard that they wish to interfere -with the standard religion of the country. These " Lasare," who are chiefly of the lower and middle classes, are simply rather stricter in the observance EELIGION. 77 of their Christian duties than their neighbours, in fact, rather more religious ; and consequently, instead of being respected, as undoubtedly they ought to be, for setting a better exaraple to their neighbours, they are universally sneered at, and " Oh, he's a Lasare " is used as a term of reproach. The priests, take them as a class, are an exemplary, well- educated body of men, often over-worked but certainly not overpaid; zealous and indefatigable in their duties, and with perhaps as fe-w pretensions as the clergy of any country in the world. Their income, especiaUy that of the curates, is small. A curate will probably not receive more than about £10 a year and his keep, and the first living to which he may be appointed will perhaps not exceed £40 a year. There are, however, sorae large livings ; the largest I ever heard of, in Werraland, was about £800 a year, and I do not think there are any larger. The income of a Swedish priest is generally derived frora a small farm, and often besides from a yearly payment of butter, com, etc., by his parishioners. One thing I much Uke as regards the appointing of the Swedish clergy. The priests are chosen by the voice of the parishioners (at least in certain cases) and the bishops by the vote of the clergy of the diocese. The whole kingdom is divided into 12 stifts or dioceses, each under the rule of a bishop and consistoriura. The archbishop of Upsala is over all, and his income is about £1200 yearly, or less than that of the Bishop of Lund. The income of the Bishop of Lund is at present above £2000 a year, but a considerable reduction is about to take place, and in future he -will receive scarcely £1000 a year, and the Bishop of Carlstad about £600. These 12 dioceses are di-vided into 174 provostships, or contracts, of which the bishop of the diocese names the con tract priest, who is the head of all the others in his provost- ship. The nuraber of territorial "pastorats" is 1261, most of them including more than one parish. The nuraber of all the clergy in Sweden, of every grade, appears to be 3406, 78 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. or one to about every 1000 of the inhabitants. In Norway the number is 500, or about one to 2500 inhabitants. The church service is simple and well performed. There is rauch singing, but no ranting, and the men and women occupy different seats in the church. All parochial and other notices, such as notices of auctions, rewards for the recovery of lost and stolen goods, etc., are read from the pulpit after the service is over. The ' Sunday is far better observed in general by the peasants than the higher classes, and certain Sundays in the year are held much more sacred than others. There are besides many hoUdays in the course of the year, on which , no work is done. Christmas, Easter, and Midsumraer, are very strictly observed. Holy Communion is a frequent observance with the Swedish peasants. It is rather curious to the stranger here that the Lord's Day is supposed to begin at 6 p.m. on the Saturday night, and to end at 6 p.m. on the Sunday. The church bell tolls at six on the Saturday evening, when in general the peasants knock off work, and wash and clothe themselves for the Sunday, and as the religious duties of the Sunday are sup posed to end at 6 p.m., it is no unusual thing to see a priest who has been preaching in church during the moming en joying his social rubber of whist in the evening. Now if the Sunday really did begin at 6 p.m. on the Saturday and end at 6 p.m. on the Sunday, this would not appear strange, but still, if the early part of any one day is dedicated wholly to the ser-vice of the Lord, I think it but consistent that we should end the day in the sarae fashion, especially if it is the Sabbath; and I for one cannot think that a healthy, moral exaraple is set to the lower classes of any land, where the richer ones invariably fix the evening of the Sunday for baUs, concerts, entertainraents in the theatres, and in their own houses, and the raore especially as I could never see that the Saturday evening was in the least recognized as the com mencement of the Sabbath. I am not here going to play the hypocrite, for, as Burns observes, " God knows I'm not the thing I should be," but THE SABBATH. 79 I do think that we are all of us bound at least to spare one whole day out of the seven, if not altogether for reUgion, at least for rest and reflection, and as a slight mark of gratitude towards Him to whom we are indebted for all the good we enjoy in this life.. I well recollect that even in " the bush," and on " the diggings," the Sunday was always at least a day of rest, if not of devotion; and although not probably one' of us in a hundred had the opportunity of attending a place of worship, stiU the early lessons of an English horae were never entirely forgotten, and even the bush tent wore a quieter and a different aspect on the Lord's Day. Pro bably a clean shirt and a cleaner face might be the principal outward observances of the bushman's Sabbath, and the Sunday was haUed by most of us as a day of rest from our weekly toil, in the true sense of the word. But stUl the Sunday was as much Sunday in the bush tent, as in the quiet vUlage cottage at home, and the cahn stillness of the day was not altogether -without its fruits, for it carried the wanderer's mind back to the scenes of childhood and horae, and opened once again the only page of life's history which could be said to be without a blot. It would be hard to say what thoughts were passing through the mind of the rough bushman as he lounged upon his rude bed in the full enjoyment of his Sunday's rest and a short black pipe ; but I -wiU venture to say that in nine cases out of ten, if his mind's tablets could have been laid bare at that moment, a sraall viUage church and perhaps a grey-haired parent, or a little sister with her hand fondly clasped in his own as he led her up to the old grey porch, would have been found engraven there in characters too indelible, for the rude waves of the stormy sea of life ever to obliterate. " The sound of the church-going bell " had, however, never broken the deep soUtude of the forest in which his tent is now pitched. His mates might be engaged in some of the necessary occupations of every-day life. One might be washing a shirt, another cooking dinner, while others might perhaps be seated in careless conversation round the carap fire. But there was even still a something 80 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. in this -wild spot which told that this day was different to any other. The loud laugh and the coarse jest which too often garnishes the ordinary discourse of the bushman, were seldom heard on the Sunday ; or if one more hardened than his comrades attempted it, his mates would be more ready to turn away than to laugh. But aU over the continent the Sabbath is regarded as a day of pleasure, and not of sacred rest ; and although individually there may be quite as good foreigners as EngUshmen, the raoral tone of the inhabitants, generally speaking, of every foreign land which I have visited, is very, very different from that of old England. You never hear in Sweden, as you do in England, or in many continental countries, a merry peal of bells. Some of the bells in the town churches are deep and finely-toned, but their measured, soleran toll, always struck a chUl into my heart, for I never could make out whether they were tolling for church service or for a burial. The deep solemn sound of the church bell in the north, is in perfect unison with the stern, rugged features of the country, just as the sweet chime from a Uttle English country church, is in keeping with the quiet rural scenery which usuaUy surrounds it. It is now raany years (although I have never forgotten the time) since I sat on the garden terrace of the old house at home, in the calm twilight of the summer evening, and listened to the soft, sweet peal of bells from the taU spire of a neighbouring church, as the sound carae floating down the river, mellowed by the water, and the stillness which then reigned over all. Strange to say in all my wanderings since, I have only once heard a peal of bells which to my fancy could equal them, and this was of all places in the world, at Melbourne, Victoria. The gold fever was just then at its height, and the to-wn was one continual scene of riot, and dissipation. I was then a " new chum," and Uke many others being out of luck, I had but little heart to join in the boisterous revelry with which I was surrounded. It was a lovely evening, and I had stroUed about two miles from the town on the banks of the Yarra, to moralize, like the sentimental Jaques, upon my UNIVEESITIES. 81 future prospects. My heart was sad enough just at that moment, when suddenly the beUs from sorae church in the town struck up a merry peal, so Uke ray old favourites, that in a raoraent all my cares vanished, I quite forgot that I was a penniless adventurer in a gold-digging country at the antipodes, and every other reflection was absorbed in the remembrance of " Youth and home, and that sweet time When last I heard the eTening chime." The two universities are at Lund and Upsala. The former has about 600 students, the latter double that nuraber. At both they have first-rate professors, and the system of education is very good. Frora the appearance of the students, I infer they are admitted at an earlier age than in our universities. Their university costume is much neater than ours, consisting of a plain dress, -without a gown, and a jaunty little white velvet cap, with a yellow and blue rosette. The expenses of a university education are much cheaper here than in England. A young student told me that at Lund, about £3, and at Upsala, about £4 per month, woiUd cover aU expenses. There are excellent schools in every to-wn, but to this subject I shall recur hereafter. Every Swede raust read with the priest before he or she can be adraitted to the Lord's Table ; and every year the priest has to hold a meeting in various parts of his parish, and hear his parishioners read, and examine them in their reUgion. The peasants here appear to be rauch raore under the eye of their clergyraen than in England. It appears from the prison returns in 1858, that out of 100 prisoners eight could neither read nor write ; eighty-one could read ; nine could both read and write well ; and one was of superior education. It is quite certain that the lower classes in Sweden generally stand far before those of England, as far as education is concerned. In 1869, out of all the chUdren of an age to be put to school in Sweden, only one in seventy was uneducated. 6 82 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. One thing I Uke rauch. You rarely enter a peasant's house without seeing a large Bible lying on the table. I recoUect, once ha-ving an argument -with an old peasant who was very poor, on something which happened in the Mosaic age. The poor old feUow said if he had only a Bible he should feel so much interested in the accounts of the earlier days. He had a New Testament, but had never been able to save money enough to buy a Bible. I asked him which he would rather have, an old pair of boots I had proraised him, or a large type Bible. He hesitated, for his feet were "very near the ground," but he chose the Bible. I gave him both, and when I paid him a visit afterwards, I found him deep in the wars of the Philistines, speUing his way with the aid of a pair of monstrous spectacles raade out of window glass. I met the old fellow about a year afterwards and he slily drew me into a discussion on the comparative merits of David and Saul, just to prove to me that he had read my Bible. On the whole we may take the peasants throughout the country as a very good, sterling, simple-minded, contented, race of raen. Honest, ci-vU, weU-behaved, and particularly willing to help a stranger. We rarely bolt a door at night in the country, and I never had a row with a peasant the whole time I was in Sweden. Murders or highway robberies are not often heard of, although both in Stockholm and Gothenburg I have seen sorae raost villanous-looking scoundrels hanging about, whom I should be very sorry to meet on a dark night without my revolver. Crime, they say, is on the decrease, owing, as some will have it, to the greater difficulty of procuring spirits ; others (rayself among the nuraber) to the increased severity of prison discipline. The punishment for crimes in Sweden is very severe. For a theft, the prisoner is doomed to pay a certain sum, pro bably double the value of the goods stolen, and in default of paying, to be kept on bread and water for so many days, and after that to be kept at hard labour for a certain time. I noticed that a thief who had broken into the Bishop's house at Lund, in the end of 1863, was doomed to be kept CEIME. 83 to hard labour for the term of his natural life, and the receiver who bought some of the stolen silver, was sentenced to pay 3679 rqr., or in default, to undergo twenty-eight days bread-and-water, and after that to be kept to hard labour for one year and six months. This bread-and-water system, I ara told, is no joke ; they say twenty- eight days is alraost equal to a death's doom. I believe the bread is unfermented, and -without salt. The soUtary, silent system is strictly observed in the jaUs. Flogging is, happily, now abolished, and when an execution takes place, the axe is the instrument of death. A Swedish flogging must have been terrible. The executioner did not use a " cat," but three long hazel twigs, which he cast away after every two strokes, and took three fresh ones. About twenty-four pair of strokes was con sidered as much as a man could bear. How is it then, that when the disgusting and brutal practice of flog ging in the British army was at its height, a soldier could take 500 lashes from a nine-tailed cat ? Executions are rare. I read of one in Norway, in March, 1864, when two fellows were beheaded for a murder. The head executioner there, or " sharp rattan " as he is called, would be a very good raate for our old Calcraft, as he is sixty-nine years old, and has been in office above thirty years ; during this tirae, however, he has only be headed fourteen men and one woman; he only works in Norway, not in Sweden. The axe he uses is described as being quite an interesting relict ; it did duty in Copenhagen in 1772, and has, I believe, been an heirloora in the old man's family ever since. It weighs seventeen pounds. Howl should like to steal it, to place in my coUection of curiosities ! In most parishes there is, I beUeve, a place set apart for executions, generally a lone spot at a little distance from the town. Formerly the heads of criminals were stuck on poles and set up where they were beheaded. Now, I believe, this is not the custora. In Stockholm, two men were lately beheaded for a 84 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. murder, and if the public papers speak the feeUngs of the people, in aU probabUity this will be about the last capital punishment in Sweden. At the last meeting of the " diet," a very great attempt was made to do away -with capital punishment, and, singular to say, the priests stood alone as champions of the system. Formerly a master could take the law into his own hands, and chastise his own servants, this, however, is not the case now, and an assault, especiaUy on a poUceman, is a very serious offence in Sweden. I should certainly recommend the adoption of the Swedish prison discipline for our garotters. I have been told that they do not cUp the prisoner close here, but as soon as he enters the prison they shave clean the one half of his head, leaving the hair on the other. This sort of head-dress must have an, imposing and striking effect. No one can be executed without first confessing the crime, even after ha-ving been condemned ; but the prisoner is kept in prison till the confesson is made ; and soUtary con finement and the exhortations of the priest generally force the prisoner to confess sooner or later. .Whether there is either justice or mercy in such a law I leave wiser heads than mine to determine. The constables in the country are about on a par with our old parish constables at home, only, of course, fewer and further between. The new police in Gothenburg are a poor iraitation of the London police ; but it is a very heavy offence to interfere with them when on duty. In the country towns, the night-watchmen cry the hours with loud sonorous voices, and one watchman, in Carlstad, was perched all night upon the top of the church tower to cry the hours through a loud horn, and give notice if a fire broke out in the night. I used to think a Swedish postillion must have roughish work of it during the winter, but his life would be a bed of roses compared to that of one of these steeple watchmen, on a cold January night, in the middle of Sweden. CIVIL LAW. 85 Crimes, I beUeve, seldom go undetected, for justice, though slow in this country, is sure. The total number of prisoners confined in aU the prisons in the country, for offences of every kind, in 1862, was 10,055. This was rather more than in 1861, when the ¦number was 9936; but less than 1835, by 1582 (or 13 per cent.) ; than 1845, by 5428; than 1855, by 2049; than 1860, by 1252. Suicides are not so very uncommon, and in no other country have I heard of more real determined cases of felo de se than in this. Sometiraes when a peasant drowns himself he sticks his hat or coat upon the bank of the river, so that his friends may know what has become of him. There is not a regular coroner's inquest here in cases of murder or -violent death, as in England; but the "lans- man " has to -view the body, and investigate the cause of death. There is, I may add, no " trial by jury " in the north, but in all cases, I beUeve, a final appeal to the king. In cases of felo de se a Christian burial is denied to the unfortunate deceased. The ci-vil laws are lenient. Bankruptcies and insolvencies are very common, and appear to be thought Uttle of. It is very rarely that a raan is imprisoned for debt, because his creditor must keep him during his imprisonment. Un less a man put his hand to paper, it appears to me that a debt will take almost any length of time to recover. I would warn the stranger, in any foreign country, to be very careful about signing his name to anything, especiaUy biUs. I only once put my name to a bUl in Sweden, and this was to be joint security for a tailor, and I was done in so clever a manner that Sam Slick himself could not have beaten it. Two sureties were required for £25 for this raan, to be paid in a twelveraonth, and I agreed to be one, on the distinct imderstanding that if the tailor did not pay, I could only be caUed upon to pay £12 10s., and my feUow-bondsraan the other £12 10s. The bill was properly drawn ; I signed my name under 86 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. the tailor's, and my co-bondsman under mine ; but there was a little space left between my name and his, and in this place they cleverly inserted a line to the effect that if I could not pay the whole £25 (in default of the taUor's doing so) the other bondsman would pay his share. Of course, the taUor never paid a shiUing, and I had to pay the whole, or within a fortnight after the date of the biU aU my things would have been seized. I had fortunately enough to pay. I was much vexed when I refiected that a man Uke my self, who had seen no Uttle of horse-deaUng and turf-life, should be so neatly done by a Swedish taUor. Law expenses are very moderate in this country as com pared with England. Nevertheless, as elsewhere, the law yers appear to live and thrive. There is no system of police espionage in this country, as in Russia. This sort of thing would not suit the free Swedes. There is no need of government spies, where a loyal feeling exists among aU classes, nor does it require a very severe police, to keep a nation in order, who are all well disposed towards each other. Even if the country is a poor one, I would ten thousand times rather be the King of Sweden, and feel that I had not a real enemy among all my subjects, than be the Autocrat of a land Uke Russia, and know that those of my subjects who did not hate me, only feared rae. The strength of the standing army of Sweden in 1863, exclusive of officers, was as follows : — Infantry. — Guards .... 1,800 Of the line . . . 24,000 Conscription . . . 70,950 96,750 Besides Gotland National Conscription, which, however, cannot be called on active ser-vice out of that island . . . 8,500 Cavalry. — Guards .... 460 Of the line . . . 4,450 Conscripts . . . 3,700 8,600 AEMf. 87 Artillery (with 176 cannon) .... 5,050 Engirieers . . . . . . .1,180 Train 4,676 Total . . . 124,766 Independent, however, of these troops, they have an other corps the numerical strength of which I am unable to state, which in the event of an invasion would probably be of raaterial assistance, but who belong neither to the contingent nor the reserve. Every young raan in Sweden from twenty-one to twenty-five is liable to be caUed upon to serve as a soldier in case of invasion. He is drilled for two years, and for a short time on the parade-ground with the other soldiers. The regular land-soldiers do not Uve in barracks (except the artUlery in Gothenburg and the guards in Stock holm), but they are stationed aU over the country. Every estate or hemman in Sweden, of which there are about 65,000, must support a soldier, i. e., find him a house and little piece of land, do his ploughing for him, and pay him a certain amount of rye yearly. Some few estates are called " Satterier," and these, having been granted in forraer times to the possessors free of aU taxes, have no soldiers to sup port. And in some few other cases a "hemman," instead of keeping a house and land for a soldier, pays a yearly tax of 90 rqr. to the crown. These soldiers are exercised or drilled once in every year, and this is the only time they can be said to be on soldier's duty, when they raeet and camp out on some large plain. Most of thera are married, Uve at home, and do labouring work for the rest of the year, except some few who are stationed in castles throughout the land. By this plan the Swedish army is kept up at a small expense to the cro-wn. All their arms and uniforms, when they are not on drUl, are deposited here and there in large magazines. The officers are also scattered over the country, many of them living on farms granted to them by government. 88 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. That the Swedish soldiers are strong, brave, and hardy men there can be little doubt, and probably in an intellectual and moral point of view stand higher than the common British soldier. In the case of an invasion, they would doubtless be very forraidable opponents, for the country is well adapted to a guerilla war. But we must not shut our eyes to what is the real strength of an army constituted like theirs, comprising as it does men with famUies, men taken from their business or work, and who do not possess, like the soldiers of permanent and regular armies, the instruction or habits acquired in railitary life. Moreover, their cannons and muskets are quite of the old school, and would stand little chance against well-appointed batteries, manned with modern artillery, or regiments armed with the Whitworth rifie. We had a pretty good proof of the efficacy of well rifled cannons over old artillery in the late war between the Prussians and the Danes. Perhaps the only nation the Swedes have to fear are their neighbours the Russians ; and I trust the day is very far distant when the old blue and yellow flag of Sweden wUl have to strike to Russia. Of all European countries, Sweden has apparently at the present day less need of a large standing array, and more need of an effective rifle force, than any other. She has no foreign possessions to protect, and she wishes to raake no aggressions upon her neighbours ; and as long as they will let her alone, I do not think she wUl ever meddle with thera. Late events have, however, shown us that aggrandizeraent is now the aim of the larger continental states, and if, as it seems probable, Prussia and Russia are in league, Sweden may be said to stand between two fires, especially if the Prussians make further encroachments upon Denmark. National bravery wiU avaU little against brute force and overwhelming numbers, but an effective rifle corps would do much in a land like Sweden. To be fore-warned is to be fore-armed, and I should strongly recoramend the Swedish government to re-model their artil lery and the smaU arms of their infantry, and to do aU that lies in their power to encourage the movement of the volun- NAVY. 89 teer rifle clubs. It is upon these latter that the safety of a country will much depend in case of an invasion. With a very little management and at a trifling expense, Sweden might have at her command 50,000 volunteer rifle men — men of good blood, in the prime of life, who if properly armed, and fighting in their own country, would be very Uttle if at all inferior to the ordinary land soldiers. It does not appear now to be England's policy to inter. fere with foreign quarrels ; and whether it was foolish or wise in her not to assist Denmark in the late struggle, I am not politician enough to say. Whether or no she has lost her prestige among European powers by not doing so, I think matters very little. I do not consider that for many years England has had one reaUy true friend in Europe. And there is not a European power who would not be sin cerely glad to see her embroiled in a quarrel from which she could not extricate herself. No one but EngUshmen who are Uving abroad can see -with what jealousy, I raay almost say hatred, England is regarded by nearly every foreign power, and it behoves her just now to be very careful how she casts the first stone. All I trust is, that she never will be taunted into fighting. But if it is once shown that it is her duty to fight, I for one feel pretty confident, notwith standing all the sneers not only of foreigners but even of many of her own countryraen, that the good old British war-cry of " Heaven prosper the right," wUl be found to have lost none of its ancient raeaning. The Swedish fleet consists of 8 line-of-battle ships (2 steamers and 6 saiUng vessels) ; 6 frigates (1 screw and 5 sailing ships); 6 brigs; 18 schooners; 88 gun sloops (consisting of 12 steamers and 76 saiUng ves sels) ; 6 small steamers; 112 gun boats (a very effective force on this rocky island-studded coast) ; 12 smaU tran sports. In aU 24 stearaers, 237 sailing vessels, with 1215 cannons. The Norwegian array consists of — troops of the line, 19,511 men; land troops, 15,604 raen. In all, 36,115 men. 90 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. The Norwegian navy consists of 146 ships, -with 854 cannon. The volunteer rifle movement is going on slowly in Sweden, and there is scarcely so much enthusiasm displayed in the cause as I should have fancied there would have been in a country so well adapted for sharp-shooters, and where the rifle is decidedly a favourite weapon. The two naval depots are Stockholm and Carlskrona, and perhaps the best fortified sea-coast town is Marstrand. There is a mUitary college, Uke Sandhurst, at Carlsberg, near Stockholm. The Swedes make excellent sailors, and I have often heard EngUsh captains say that they like to have a Swede or two very much among their crew. Neither the wages or the Uving are so good on board the Swedish as on the British or American ships, and on this account so many Swedish saUors sail under these two flags. I fancy they prefer the American. The annual expenses of the Swedish Govemment in 1860 amounted to 26,911,710 rix-doUars. 1. Head, or crown departments rqr. rmt. 1,278,400 2. Justiciary 2,198,570 3. Foreign . 479,200 4. Land force 8,727,720 5. Naval 3,306,100 6. Civil department 2,206,950 7. Financial department 4,270,450 8. Ecclesiastical 3,276,400 9. Pensions . 1,168,920 Total 26,911,710 Or about one and a half million EngUsh pounds. This expenditure must, however, have increased during the last four years. In 1841 it amounted to Uttle over 16,000,000 rix-doUars. The taxes are light, indeed, in comparison to England. JUSTICE. 91 Most of thera seem to be charged upon the land, except a sraall income-tax. AU these things are managed very weU. Each pro-vince has its governor, who resides in the coun try to-wn, and each town its burgomaster. In every district is a " lansraan," or head-raagistrate, who is regarded by the peasants as Uttle inferior to royalty itself. Judges are appointed for each district, who hold a kind ofdistrict court or assize every spring and autumn at dif ferent places throughout the country for the trial of criminal and civil cases. CHAPTER II. General Description of Life in the Country — The Inhabitants — Expenses of Living, and Adviee to the Traveller and Sportsman Visiting Sweden. No passport is now required to any part of the north, and the traveUer can -visit Denmark, Sweden, or Norway -with far less difficulty than he could ten years ago. There is little trouble at any of the custom-houses, and he is sure to meet with civility and assistance from every official. If the English traveller -wishes to reach Sweden direct, his best plan will be to come to Gothenburg by a steamer from London or Hull, which leaves both places every week during the summer for Gothenburg. Messrs. PhilUps and Graves, Rood Lane, City, are the agents in London ; Messrs. Wilson in Hull. The London boats are the cheapest, but in either the first class wiU not exceed £3 besides provisions on board. This is not much out of the way, but for dogs the case is different. A pointer was sent over to me by the Hull boat in 1863, and its fare was £1 Is. 7d. to Gothen burg. The same dog's fare from England to Australia, 14,000 mUes, would have been £5. Small parcels are also exorbitantly dear by these steamers. The length of passage is about the same from both places, say at longest, three days. The stearaers -wiU run nearly through the whole year, certainly from February to the mid dle of November. Frora Gothenburg the traveUer can reach Stockholra at any tirae of the year in one day by rail, but in the summer I should certainly recomraend him to go up by one of the little steamers over the Wener. The passage wUl probably occupy three days, but this -will be amply repaid by the sight of the beautiful scenery through which HINTS TO SPOETSMEN. 93 it passes. In fact, I know not a nicer nor cheaper summer for the English tourist than to corae to Gothenburg and travel up to Stockholm in this manner. He will not require a guide an inch of the way as all the captains on these boats speak English. There are no real EngUsh hotels in Gothenburg or Stock holm, but in raost there is a courier who speaks English. Living in a hotel at either place -will be about as dear as in a second-rate London hotel. Blom's hotel and the Gotha KaUan are perhaps the best in Gothenburg ; Hotel Ryd- berg in Stockholm. I should decidedly recomraend any Englishraan (espe cially a sportsraan) landing in Gothenburg, if he want any ad-vice or assistance, at once to caU upon ray old friend, Mr. Duff, British Vice- Consul, a first-rate sportsraan hiraself, and who is always willing to help an EngUsh traveller. The EngUsh traveller who lands in a foreign country -with a good letter of credit in his pocket -will find little difficulty in getting on, and if he is only -visiting Sweden for the pur pose of seeing the country, and of obtaining a Uttle chance fishing and shooting at any place where he may stop, he had better hire a travelling servant in Gothenburg who speaks EngUsh (at 3s. 6d. per day and his keep), and when once in leading strings, leave all to his guide. He -will see the country in this manner, and I dare say obtain a Uttle sport ing whenever he chooses to pull up. But as this book is in tended for a guide to the English sportsman whose means are too liraited to obtain him good sport in England, and^ therefore, seeks a new field where he may be able to enjoy a Uttle sport and yet live cheaply and comfortably for a length of time, I shall endeavour to point out to such a one the cheapest and best way to go to work in settUng up the coun try where fair sport is to be had, and where he raay live at a moderate expense ; and in a future chapter, I shall enter more fully into the fishing and shooting of this country, telUng him exactly what sport he may expect to find, what localities are best to seek it in; and if he only follows ray ad vice, I do not fancy he will be altogether disappointed. 94 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. But before -visiting Sweden, he must make up his mind to moderate sport and to work hard for that. _ Considering the ¦wild nature of the country except right up in Lapland (and my " Spring and Summer in Lapland" will teU him all about the fauna and sporting capabilities of that land), Sweden is very badly stocked with game, and this is solely owing to the game laws being treated quite as nonentities, and there being no regular gamekeepers to look after the game, except just in the duck and snipe season. I never raade what I call a heavy bag in the country, others, however, I know have done much more than myself. I will then suppose a man to have landed in Gothen burg without a friend, and without kno-wing a word of the language. If he is a raarried man, and thinks of eventua;lly settling, let him by aU means leave his -wife and famUy at home till he has taken one trip over by himself to recon noitre the land. He wUl get on well enough in Gothenburg, where about every third man speaks English, nor wiU he require any assistance tUl he comes right up into the country. It -will be very little use for him to remain in Gothenburg, where U-ving is as dear as in England, and very little sport to be obtained at the present day, except by the residents who have now aU the shooting in their own hands, and are exceedingly jealous of strangers. There is very Uttle trout fishing in the south of Sweden, and there are only two or three salmon streams along the whole range of the southern and south-eastern coast, and it is quite as difficult to get leave to fish them as in England, so don't let the English traveller fancy that he wUl be able to procure sahnon fishing in every part of Sweden. I refer him to my chapter on Swedish sporting for further information on this point. There certainly used to be, and perhaps, at times, still is, fair duck and snipe shooting in the Gothenburg reed beds, but now the shooting there is very strictly pre served by a kind of club ; besides, when an Englishman leaves home he does not travel to meet EngUshmen ; and I think no town so undesirable a residence for an English raan as a second-rate foreign one, where EngUsh customs HINTS TO SPOETSMEN. 95 and manners are universally aped, and English prices charged for foreign produce. Nothing but English goes down in Gothenburg, and they tell a good story of a Gothenburg swell who went into a coffee roora there and ordered a real English dinner. He must have real English beef-steaks, real English porter, in fact he so bothered the girl with his English orders, that at length she asked him whether she was also to bring him English salt ; the narae by which our epsom salts are known in Sweden. The man who only -visits Gothenburg has seen very Uttle of Sweden. The Swedes he meets with are spoiled by the number of English whom they see in this little seaport, and the few EngUsh who are resident there -will be of little or no use in introducing him, either to the sporting or natural history of this fine land, and the scenery around the town, although pretty, is scarcely Swedish ; so if he wants to see real Swedish scenery, real old fashioned Swedish customs, and enjoy a Uttle fair sporting at a moderate price, he must shake the dust off his shoes at the good town of Gothenburg, and steara up to the Wener at once ; and if he raeans to stay any length of time in Sweden, let him take up his quarters in Carlstad for a few months, till he has become acquainted with the language and custoras of the people. He can live cheaper here than in Gothenburg, and he will be able to obtain some very fair sporting round the town. It is not the least use a man thinking of settling in the country where any sport is to be had till he has learned something of the language, and let him settle where he will at first, until he knows the language and customs of the people, his li-ving will cost him 100 per cent, more than when he has becorae used to the country. An Englishraan therefore who visits Sweden for a short time cannot give any opinion as to whether it is a cheap country or not. But I may as well here say that Sweden is not so cheap a country after all as we in England suppose, and I beUeve a man -with a family who is used to and cannot do without English comforts, will be able to Uve very nearly, if not as cheaply, in England. But for a single man, who 96 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. does not mind roughing it, and can make himself tolerably corafortable in peasants' quarters, after he has once mastered a little of the language, and got a footing in the country, and who wishes to enjoy a Uttle fair fishing and shooting Sweden is certainly a cheap country in some respects, and after aU a good deal freer than any part of England. Such a man ought to live well on £50 per year, and get some very tolerable sporting, but he must then hire his own room and buy his own provisions. There are raany places where a single raan can board with a gentleman's faraily at about two shUlings a day, with a peasant for a little less, and till he gets used to the country, this will be, perhaps, his cheapest plan. But a raan with a family will find it very difficult to get settled. I am certain he will have great difficulty in finding accoraraodation, and that such a man must reside for some time in a to-wn at EngUsh prices, and probably at an inn, before he can settle up country. Very few residents have furnished rooms to let, and although a single man may obtain quarters any where, it will be very difficult for a raan with a famUy. A gentleman with his wife and two small chUdren and nurse maid could not get board and lodging any where in Werm land under ten shillings a day; and this very gentleman who had corae over frora Belgium, said that with his family be could live there far cheaper than in Sweden, and much more comfortably, inasmuch that one franc, of which he got about twenty-five for the English pound, would go as far as the rix-doUar in Sweden, of which he got about seven teen for the pound. But if he hires his own Uttle place and takes Swedish servants, and buys his own pro-visions, he may certainly do it for less ; but this he can't think about until he has been at least six months in the country. I have tried different plans. I have lived -with gentle men and -with peasants, and I have hired my own room, and bought my o-wn pro-visions. The latter was by far the most independent but the dearest plan, for I was never a very good economist. If a man really means to settle, he had far better hire a small place, with a few acres of ground) CHOICE OF LOCALITY. 97 and farm a little. He must at all events have a housekeeper, and a raan to row him and help him in his shooting excur sions, and he may just as well employ their spare time use fully as not. But if he can fall in -with a gentleman or respectable peasant in a good district, who ¦will board and lodge him for about Is. 6d. a day at first (and such a place a single man will be able to get), I am sure he wUl find this his cheapest plan. There wUl be one great advantage in this plan, it ¦will give him a sort of standing and introduc tion into the country, while he is acquiring the language, and if he only gets himself Uked, which he can easily do if he behaves ci-viUy and courteously to the gentle men, and liberally to the peasants, he -wiU find no difficulty in getting on. It is not easy to recomraend the choice of a locality for a raan whose sole object is sporting. The best partridge shooting is in the south of Sweden, and we had none in Wermland, where I spent the most of my time. Perhaps, also, the best open black game and woodcock shooting is in the south ; but I fancy a stranger wiU now find some diffi culty in obtaining sport there, as most of the proprietors fish and shoot themselves. Duck and snipe shooting can be met -with throughout the whole country in good localities. But in Wermland, if a man is only settled in a good locaUty, he wiU meet with every kind of game peculiar to Sweden (before the severe -winter of 1860 cut thera all off, we had exceUent partridge shooting in the south of the province), and in many places, especially tbwards the north, very good trout and grayling fishing, and even lake trout, besides nearly every other kind of fish which is met -with in the southern waters. I speak of this province from expe rience. I made many good friends there, and I ara cer tain any other Englishman can do the same. He -wiU here find the gentlemen kind and courteous, the peasants civU, and willing to oblige, and besides this (which is now far from being the case in the south of Sweden), he will have no difficulty in obtaining sport. if he only bears in mind 98 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. these two golden rules — never to set foot on any man's land, even the meanest peasant's, -without first asking leave ; and, above all, to avoid getting the name of a pot-hunter. If he has a day's shooting or fishing on a gentleman's ground, let him leave a good share of his game behind him, and a few ris- doUars and a glass or two of brandy -will obtain him the free run of any peasant's land. As for fishing, he wiU have little difficulty in obtaining leave to fish as much as he pleases on any water in Wermland with a rod and line ; but there is no real salmon fishing anywhere inland; and as for the matter of shooting, there -wUl be many wUd tracts where he can wander for miles -without any one asking him where he is going. Of course he must hire a man to row hira, and accom pany him in his forest rambles — in fact, as a general rough servant. Such a raan he wUl get for about Is. 3d. per day in the suramer, and he must buy a boat for his fishing. A boat wUl cost him nearly £1, a punt 12s. If he -wishes to travel about (and as soon as he becomes known to the neigh bouring lando-wners he -wUl have lots of in-vitations, for Wermland is one of the most hospitable provinces ia aU Sweden), he can always obtain a peasant's horse and cart for Is. 2d. the Swedish mile, to take him where he wants. His dogs he must feed entirely on oatmeal and milk, and about £1 10s. a year will keep each dog well, and if he reads further on, he -wUl see at what price, and in what man ner he can feed himself. It would be fay the best for any man who reaUy wishes to spend two summers and one -winter in Sweden, and to give the country a fair trial, to come up to Carlstad in May, as soon as there is open water, and live there tiU the season sets in, when he must look out for better quarters, and this he wUl have to leave much to chance. Here he must, of course, take lessons in Swedish, and spend his whole time in master ing the language. I always found Carlstad a very nice and pretty summer residence, and the people very kind, and it is certainly cheaper than Gothenburg. I may add, that a good many people here speak English, and I know no town WILD SPOET. 99 in Sweden where they are more anxious to learn, and I am certain a weU educated young Englishman could get an ex ceUent U-ving by teaching English. He would make far more money and be far more independent than many a poor curate at home, and thus gain an introduction into the best famUies. If he wants real -wild Swedish sporting, he had better, when he moves, go right up into DalecarUa, and the nearer he camps to the di-viding fell range between Sweden and Norway the better. But in every part of Wermland he will get wUd forest shooting. I have heard Trysell, on the Nor wegian frontier, well spoken of, but I fancy anywhere about twenty-five or thirty Swedish railes north of Carlstad, would bring a man into the -wildest forest districts ; and I should recoraraend him to be somewhere near the fells. I know the river Klar for quite twenty miles up, and I was much dis appointed in both the fishing and shooting there, for I was not near enough to the real feUs, and none of the great lake trout seem to come far up that river. Probably they are aU stopped by the faU at Degerforss, about a couple of Swedish mUes north of Carlstad, where great nurabers are taken every year in the salmon-trap. Strange to say, I found very few -wUlow grouse up there, although they corae much further south ; in fact, very little of any kind of game on the banks of that river. Bear shooting, as well as elk, is to be obtained -within about seventy English miles north of Carlstad. His EngUsh money he had better leave with Mr. Duff, in Gothenburg, to whom aU his remittances could be raade. That gentleman could send him Swedish money when he required it. Whatever part he settled in, there would always be a town or iron manufactory in the, neighbourhood to which his letters could be sent from Carlstad, and this he must arrange with the postmaster there. He wiU of course bring all his English clothes and tackle with him, and let his outfit be good. Just what he has used at horae wUl do here. A rifle will be of very little use to him, for in bear and elk shooting, I think a smooth-bore 100 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. will answer every purpose ; unless, indeed, he means to try reindeer stalking on the fells, and then, of course, his rifle will be indispensable. A pea-rifle would, however, be very handy for shooting blackcock and capercailUe in the winter if a man knows how to use it. He had better bring over plenty of English powder and caps, for these he cannot get up country. He can buy plenty of powder (but it wiU not be so clean and strong as the EngUsh) for about 2s. a pound. I never saw any caps in use up the country, except the common German rubbish. Very good shot he can buy anywhere, and his best plan will be to procure 1 cwt. at a time from the manufactory of Skroder and Arpi, at Guldsraedhyttan. He can order this in Carlstad, and it will be sent to him packed in 5 lb. packages in a strongbox. The Swedish nurabers, unlike the English, run up from 00, 01, 2, etc. to 14, which latter number is the size of a small pistol bullet. The best sizes I can recommend are — 1 for snipe and woodcocks, 3 for ducks, black game, etc., 5 for hares and capercailUe, and one packet (6 lb.) of 10 or 11, in case of a shot at a lynx or wolf. He can also buy bullets of all sizes, and the best powder that I have met -with in Sweden, from the sarae manufactory. By purchasing it in this way his shot will cost him under 3d. per pound. I recommend a good strong tweed shooting coat and trousers for all seasons and purposes, and if he should want any warmer winter clothing, which he wUl if he comes to winter in North Wermland, he -wiU get it in the countiy better than at home, and a few English books of light read ing will prove a great solace in many a long -winter evening. The best dog for all purposes wiU be a hardy, general purpose setter, which will take the water and retrieve. This will do for aU game in the open ; a pointer will hardly stand the climate up here. I iraagine a heavy close-hunting Sussex spaniel would be very useful in the forests, but for general work in these deep woodlands, where the dog springs the game, and when it perches stands barking under the hill till the shooter creeps up and shoots it sitting, I know no dog except such as they use here. These are only to be pro- EENTINO SHOOTING. 101 cured in the country, and such a dog well broken to drive hares and tree capercaiUie or black game, will cost from £4 to £5. Before he starts for Sweden let him make up his mind to be content -with fair, moderate sport ; this he wUl be sure to get. I dweU much on this point because many sportsmen who -write to me from England for information, seera to have formed very erroneous ideas of sporting in Sweden. Let him when once settled in the country lay aside his EngUsh hauteur and exclusiveness, treat the gentlemen -with courtesy, never trespass (he will scarcely ever be denied if he asks leave), and let him act with kindness and hearty freedom and liberality towards the peasants ; he wiU soon then becorae a favourite with dll classes, and after he has once got a good name and a good footing, it will be his own fault if he cannot keep it. Recollect that all -wUl depend upon the first footing he gains in the country, and above all never to be stingy in trifles with the peasants. Never grumble uselessly nor give unnecessary trouble. The peasants are very slow, and must not be put out of their way. I never in Wermland heard of any one renting shooting. I have always been lucky enough rayself to obtain as much of both fishing and shooting as I wanted, through the kindness of the neighbouring gentry and peasants, but I daresay a tract of forest land could easily be hired for a trifle, and, no doubt, if this was reaUy well looked after, a good head of game might soon be got up. I know fishing is often let for a certain share of the fish. But I always had an objection to renting either the exclusive right of fishing or shooting in a foreign country. Such a plan is very apt to bring a man into colUsion and unpleasantness with his neigbhours ; it is far better to obtain leave to fish or shoot when you please, and either pay a small sum or give up part of the fish or game, and have no trouble with preserving., Of course, if a man pur chased an estate, it would be a different matter. As I have before stated, sporting was a secondary consideration with me, and I did not require to be settled in a particularly good sporting district, especiaUy as I was away from home six 102 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. months out of the twelve, coUecting. So all I wanted was a home to come to, where I could leave my books and things in safety when I was absent ; in fact, where I could have head- quarters to arrange my collections, put together my notes, etc. ; and I was lucky enough to find just the place I wanted, at Gardsjo, South Wermland, with my old friend, Q. E. Stenstrom. My mode of Uving and expenses, were as follows, and in any part of Wermland I have no doubt an Englishman, when he was used to the country, could Uve in the same manner, and probably get much better sport than I had. I paid about £3 yearly for my room, and if I had Uked to have gone into farming, I could have hired some land as weU, and the whole house pretty cheap, and by laying out a little I could have made it a very nice summer residence. But I was always longing to get back to the AustraUan bush, and could never raake up my mind to settle. I was surrounded by birch woods with a lake of about 100 acres fuU of pike and perch in front of me. I paid Mr. Stenstrom's gardener's -wife, who lived in the same house, about £3 a year to "do for me," and gave her coffee, which came to quite as much as her wages (and, I may add, that it is wonderful how fond these peasant women are of coffee). I raight have easily hired a proper housekeeper, but this would have probably been rauch more expensive. My collecting lads I paid by the piece, and if I wanted a man to row me for fishing or shooting, I had no trouble in getting one. My firing I got very cheap, for little more than the cost of cutting. I bought the whole of my household furniture, beds, tables, chairs, Unen, crockery, cooking utensUs, at an auction for a little more than £8. A few good English sporting pictures, racing, steeple- chasing, boxing, and rowing, just to show them here how we do it in Eng land, made the waUs of my room quite smart, and a Ubrary on natural history, etc., such as few British naturaUsts could beat, fflled my book-shelves. My little cabin was quite a show place fOr the neighbouring peasants, and it was a MY EOOM. 103 treat to hear their remarks on my pictures. Old " Peter Crawley" in private dress was taken by all for a respectable Swedish " bruckspatzon," and a peasant once asked rae if young John Day on the " Hero" was not our king, for he never saw so grand a horse and rider in his Ufe before. As for my books, it was quite a mystery to the peasants what I wanted them for, and as for my collecting tastes, I believe I was looked upon by one and all as a harmless monomaniac. I got my post twice a week from Carlstad, and the " Field " and " Bell's Life" kept me inforraed of what was going on in England. My guns, rifle, fishing-rods, hung round the walls, and if any brother sportsman coidd have travelled up blind- fold, and opened his eyes in my Uttle cabin, he would hardly have believed that he was in the wilds of the Swedish forests. I insured aU my goods and chattels for about £300, at the yearly rate of 6s. I paid a small tax of 3s. each for my dogs, but this is not done in all districts, and as I paid no other tax, although I beUeve, strictly speaking, I ought to have paid a small income-tax, I used to give away every Christmas a few quarters of rye to the poor people in the neighbourhood, and I always reckoned that this little invest ment brought me far better interest than I could have possibly obtained anywhere else for my raoney, because I had in re tum the blessings of the poor and needy. I never could see that in ray neighbourhood any profuse liberaUty was expected from me because I was an EngUshman, nor that any attempt was made to impose upon me on this account, at least, if so, it was too triffing to be worthy of notice. I certainly never yet saw a country where smaU favours are so thank fully received, especially among the poorer classes, and it is reaUy wonderful what an immense deal of real charity a man has it in his power to do (and at a trifiing expense) in a country district, and depend upon it it will not be -without its return. Wood is universally used for firing here in iron stoves, and when the ashes are burnt down, the chiraney of the stove is closed to drive the hot air into the room. By this means 104 TEN YEAES IN SWEDEN. and with double windows, the rooms are kept warm in winter. These stoves are rather dangerous to manage, if you are not accustomed to them, for the fumes of charcoal may soon cost a man his life. Considering that all these cottages are built of wood, and how very careless the peasants are with their fires, it is really wonderful that they are not oftener burnt do-wn. As to my Uving, I could live exactly the same as in Eng land, if I chose to go to the expense, save that the meat (except the mutton) was not so good. The bread in the country is made of hard rye, in thin cakes as large as a plate. This is hung up, and wUl keep any length of time. In some large houses they bake only twice in the year ; but they can also make just as good light wheat bread as in England. The usual fashion of U-ving in the Swedish gentlemen's houses is — coffee in bed about six (this custom, which I think one of the very best in Sweden, is now being laid aside) ; breakfast about nine ; dinner about one (after a dram and a little bread and butter) ; a cup of coffee, and half an hour's nap ; a little snack about five, and supper at eight. In the summer every one in Sweden is very early, and the short Swedish summer may almost be said to be spent out of doors. The prices of pro-visions in my district were, in 1864, as follows : — Mutton . M. per lb. Beef dd. per lb. Pork 4