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A HISTORY

OF THE

DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION

OF

AUSTRALIA

OR,
AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHICAL DISCOVERY
IN THAT CONTINENT, FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO
THE PRESENT DAY.

BY THE
Eev. JULIAN E. TENISON WOODS,
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY; OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY;
OF THE LDW^AN SOCIETY; OF THE KOYAL SOCIETY OF VICTORIA;
HON. MEM. GAW. AND V. P. PENOLA INSTITUTES, ETC.
AUTHOR OF "GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA,"
"NORTH AUSTRALIA," "NOT QUITE SO OLD AS THE HILLS,"
ETC., ETC.

IN TWO VOLUMES.— VOL. I.

LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON,
14, LUDGATE HILL.
MELBOURNE: H. T. DWIGHT.
1865.

{The right of TramslatUm is reserved.']

DEDICATION. TO
HIS EXCELLENCY SIR HENRY BARKLY, K.C.B., F.R.S.,
Governor of the Mauritius.
Late Govemor-in-Chief of the Colony of Victoria,
President of the Boyal Society, Victoria,
&c, &c, &c.
My Dear Sir Henry, —
V In reading these volumes you will see that,
during the term of your government in Victoria, more
has been done for exploration in Australia than during
the previous twenty years. You will remark, also, that
the last and most gigantic efforts have been made under
the auspices of the Eoyal Society, of which you were
so long the President. Were it for this alone, your name
should justly stand at the head of a better History
than mine. But on me you have a particular claim.
Throughout the whole of my researches you have con
stantly rendered me valuable and ready assistance. In
paying a just tribute, therefore, to your zeal in the
cause of Australian exploration, let me add my own
grateful acknowledgments by dedicating these volumes
to you. Yery faithfully yours,
Julian E. Tenison Woods.

PREFACE.

I need trouble my readers with but a very few words in
explanation of the object for which this history has been
written. My greatest difficulty has been to give a good
view ofthe geographical features ofthe colony, and while
recording the manner in which they have been explored,
to try to avoid tiresome repetition. In treating of
so uniform a country as Australia, this has been no easy
task. My first intention was to do no more than com
pile all the most important discoveries, and to let each
explorer speak for himself. This would have made a
very accurate, but a most unreadable book. The later
explorations, especially, are recorded with a minuteness
tedious beyond all conception. Those who have not tried
to wade through them can form no idea how such im
portant and interesting journeys have been made dry
and repulsive by minuteness of detail. This, of course, is
valuable enough to a settler, but must close everything
but the results to the general public. My endeavour
has been to give a clear and condensed narrative, with

viii PREFACE.
such descriptions and illustrations as I could gather from
other sources. If I have succeeded, I believe that my
labours will be found valuable as well as interesting
beyond the limits of Australia. Certain observations
and conclusions which occur from time to time I
should wish to make no one responsible for but myself.
Readers will easily perceive which they are, and they
are left upon their own merits.
If alone for the sake of apologizing for the execution
of its pages, I might wish to explain the difficult circum
stances under which the work has been written ; but I
have no desire to obtrude purely personal matters upon
the public. I would not, however, wish my readers to
think that the collection of the necessary materials for
these volumes has been without trouble, or that much
labour and difficulty has not been experienced in obtain
ing useful details. Were I to do so, I should under
rate labours not my own. I have been living in the
Australian bush while writing the work, and have been
obliged entirely to rely on the exertions of .others to get
every paper which I wanted. To the untiring, disin
terested labours of a few friends, therefore, I owe every
thing. Need I say how glad I am to have an oppor
tunity of acknowledging my obligations ; and I only
wish the public could know how great they are ! I have
spoken of one in the dedication of the preceding page.
For the rest, let me express my earnest thanks, first, to
Sir D. Daly, Governor of South Australia ; secondly, to
Mr. Alexander Burkitt, late of the Williamstown Obser-

PREFACE. ix
vatory, not only for the maps and sketches which illustrate
the following pages, but also for a really terrible amount
of copying, and a zeal for the success of the whole work,
to which I can scarcely do justice here. To the Hon.
G. M. Waterhouse ; my brother, Mr. J. D. Woods ; and
Mr. J. Howard Clark, of Adelaide, I owe the next debt of
thanks, since, without the assistance they have rendered
the volumes would not perhaps have been written.
Finally, to Mr. Tulk, Curator of the Melbourne Public
Library; Rev. W. H. Clarke, F.G.S., &c, of Sydney;
Major Warburton ; B. H. Babbage, Esq., of Adelaide ;
Lieut. J. S. Roe, Surveyor-General, Western Australia ;
and S. P. Winter, Esq., Murndale, Wannon River,
Yictoria, for valuable assistance during the course of
my literary labours.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE I.
EARLY VOYAGES. PAGE
Various claims to first discovery — Early voyages of the Portu
guese — Discovery of Australia before 1540 — Manoel
Godina de Heredia in 1601 — The Dutch explorers — The
Duyphen in 1606 — Torres later in the same year — Early
Dutch voyages — Dirk Hartog in 1616 — Houtman's Ab-
rolhos — Prevost's errors — Edells in 1619 — The Leuwin in
1622— The Pera and Arnhem in 1623— Nuyts in 1627—
De Witt and Pelsart in 1628— Pool, 1636— Tasman, 1642
— The Vergulde Draeck in 1656 — Dampier in 1688 —
¦Vlamingh in 1696 — Dampier again — Other Dutch navi
gators . ........ 1

CHAPTEE II.
COOK'S VOYAGES.
Cook's discoveries in 1770 — Point Hicks — Cook's observations
on the east coast — Botany Bay — Encounter with the
natives — Port Jackson — Broken Bay — Moreton Bay —
Bustard Bay — Bay of Islets — Eockingham Bay — Cape
Tribulation — Shipwreck of Cook — Endeavour Eiver — The
first kangaroo — Eepair of the ship — Passage of the Barrier
Eeef — Weymouth Bay — Torres Straits . . . .34

CHAPTEE III.
SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY.
French expedition under Captain Marion in 1772— Eurneaux
in 1773— Cook in 1777— Settlement of Sydney by Governor
Phillip in 1788 — Examination of Botany Bay — La Perouse
— Sydney Cove — Broken Bay — Discovery of Pittwater —
Lansdown, Carmarthen, and Bichmond Hills — Head of

CONTENTS. PAGE
Sydney Harbour— Belle Vue— The Hawkesbury— Lieu
tenant Dawes tries to reach the Blue Mountains — Other
attempts — Vancouver discovers King George's Sound in
1791  54

CHAPTEE IV.
Explorations in Tasmania — Bligh — D'Entrecasteaux — The West
Coast — Hayes in Tasmania— Sydney — Hacking's attempt
to cross the Blue Mountains — Bass and Flinders — The
exploration of the Tom Thumb — Bass's attempt to cross the
Blue Mountains — Eiver Grose — Mount Hunter — Bass's
Strait discovered — Flinders and Bass sail round Tasmania 68

CHAPTEE V.
Flinders' explorations in Moreton Bay — Harvey's Bay —
Grant's discoveries in the Lady Nelson — Mounts Gambler
and Schanck — Cape Northumberland — Cape Bridgewater
— Portland Bay — Cape Otway — Islands in Bass's Straits —
Hunter's Eiver . . . . . . . .91

CHAPTEE VI.
FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST.
Flinders' explorations in the Investigator — The Australian
Bight — Fowler's, Streaky, and Coffin's Bays — Port Lincoln
— Spencer's Gulf — Mounts Brown and Arden — Yorke's
Peninsula — Kangaroo Island — Gulf St. Vincent — Mount
Lofty — Cape Jervis — Encounter Bay — Flinders and Bau-
din's expedition — Lacepede, Guichen, and Eivoli Bays —
Port Phillip  105

CHAPTER VII.
flinders' exploration's (concluded).
Flinders on the North-west Coast — Broad Sound — The Barrier
Eeef — Torres Straits — Carpentaria — Wellesley Islands —
Sir Edward Pellew's Group — Cape Maria — Bickerton Island
— Groote Eylandt — North-west Bay — Bustard Islands —
Blue Mud Bay — Caledon Bay — Arnhem's Land — Melville
Bay — Cape Wilberforce — Flinders meets with Malay
fishermen — Malay Eoad — Return to Sydney — Flinders
sails for England — Shipwreck — Imprisonment — Death —
First settlement of Port Phillip, Hobart Town, and Laun-
ceston — Buckley the wild man — The explorations of Ad
miral Baudin's expedition . . . . . .137

CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE VIII.
the blue mountains crossed.

TAGE

BarreiUer and Caley fail in their attempts to cross the Blue
Mountains — Description of them — Mitchell — Darwin —
Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth at length cross — Evans
discovers Bathurst — Campbell Eiver — The Macquarrie
Eiver — Governor Macquarrie's journey — Evans discovers
the Lachlan ........ 179
CHAPTEE IX.
OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS.
The course of the Lachlan — Mount Amyot — Level Plains —
Mount Cunningham- — The country flooded — Explorations
of the south-west — Peel's Range — Gloomy predictions of
Oxley- — Regains the Lachlan, and.again proceeds down it —
Is again stopped by marshes — Tries to reach the Macquarrie
— Campbell's Lake — Emmeline's Valley — Harvey's Range
— Mary's Valley — Bell's River — The Macquarrie — Wel
lington Valley . . . . . . .191
CHAPTER X.
OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY.
Down the Macquarrie — Mount Harris — Mount Foster — Arbuth-
not Range— River overflows — Immense reedy lake — Boat
journey — Proceeds eastward — The Castlereagh — Floods —
Mount Exmouth — Hardwicke's Range — Wilsden Valley —
Quicksands — Lushington's Valley — Liverpool Plains —
Peel's River — Passage of the Di vi ding Range— Apsley River
— The Hastings — Port Macquarrie — The Manning . .219
CHAPTER XI.
CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS.
North-west Cape — Exmouth Gulf — Curlew River — Dampier's
Archipelago — Goulburn Islands — Mountnorris and Raffles
Bay — Port Essington — Popham Bay — Visit from the
Malays — Van Diemen's Gulf — Alligator River — Melville
Island — Apsley Strait — Port Hurd — Clarence Strait . 246
CHAPTER XII.
KING'S SECOND VOYAGE.
Macquarrie Harbour and Port Macquarrie — Endeavour River
— Cross Carpentaria — Wessel's Island — Castlereagh Bay —
Liverpool Eiver — Paterson Bay — Point Pearce — Cam
bridge Gulf — Cape Londonderry — Vansittart Bay — Cape
Voltaire — Admiralty Gulf . .... 270

CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE XIII.
KING'S THIRD VOYAGE.

PAGE

Resumption of the survey — Montagu Sound — York Sound —
Prince Frederick's Harbour — Roe's River — Coronation
Islands— Port Nelson — Careening Bay — Brunswick Bay —
Prince Regent's River — Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo —
The Mermaid springs a leak and returns . . • 283
CHAPTER XIV.
KING'S LAST VOYAGE.
New Ship— Bathurst Bay— Encounter with the Natives — Han
over Bay — Port George the Fourth — Cockerill Islands —
Cape Leveque — Point Emerieau — Cape Baskerville — King
George's Sound — Swan River — The West Coast — Esta
blishment at Port Cockburn ..... 294
CHAPTER XV.
THE FIRST OVERL ANDERS.
Hume at Lake Bathurst — Stirling and Ovens discover the
Maneiro Downs — Hovell and Hume — Difficult Ranges —
The Murray or Hume — The Ovens — The Australian Alps
— The Goulburn or Hovell — Great Dividing Range —
Port Phillip  305
CHAPTER XVI.
Cunningham's discoveries.
Cunningham's discoveries — Oxl ey discovers the Brisbane River
— Cunningham discovers the Darling Downs — The colony
of Western Australia established — Consequent explorations
• — Stirling — Roe — Preston — Dale — Wilson — Hilton — Ban
nister — Moore, &c. — Visitors to the south coast . . 322
CHAPTER XVII.
STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING.
The Inland Lake theory — Sturt sent to explore the Macquarrie
— Mount Harris — Is unable to trace the river — The
Darling— Return to Mount Harris — Explores the Castle
reagh — Return . . . . . . . .340
CHAPTER XVIII.
STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER.
The Murrumbidgec — Junction of the Murray — The junction
of the Lachlan and Darling — Hostility of the natives —
Lake Alexandrina — The Murray mouth — Great sufferings

CONTENTS.

PAGE

on the return — Captain Barker — Mount Lofty — Melancholy
fate of Barker — Further explorations . . . .352
CHAPTER XIX.
MITCHELL ON THE DARLING.
Barber's story — Mitchell's first expedition — The Peel Eiver —
The Nammoy — Bullabalakit — The Nundawar Range —
The Darling — The Gwyder — Murder by the natives — An
other expedition — The Bogan — The Darling — Attempt to
explore it in a boat — Fort Bourke — Course of the Darling
— Encounter with the natives — Return .... 366
CHAPTER XX.
MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX.
Expedition to the Murray — Junction with the Darling — Hos
tility of the natives — Return to the Murray — The Avoca
— The Grampians — Mount Arapiles — The Wimmera —
The Glenelg — Portland Bay — Sierra and Victoria Ranges
— Mount Sturgeon — The Pyrenees — Return to Sydney . 378
CHAPTER XXI.
EARLY EXPLORATIONS ROUND ADELAIDE AND MELBOURNE.
Settlement of Melbourne — Establishment of South Australia —
Early explorations there — Lake Alexandrina and the
Murray Mouth — Hawdon overland from Sydney to Ade
laide — Eyre traces down the Wimmera — Bonney from
Portland to Adelaide — Henty to Mount Gambier . . 395
CHAPTER XXII.
GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST.
Expedition to Hanover Bay — -Landing upon the coast — Ter
rible adventures — Fresh survey of the interior — Arrival
ofthe ponies — Dreadful weather — Animals begin to die —
Commencement of the journey — Encounter with the na
tives — Grey wounded — River Glenelg — Basaltic tableland
— Painted caves — Failure of the expedition— Return . 402
CHAPTER XXIII.
GREY UPON THE WEST COAST.
Grey starts again — Sharks Bay — Dreadful storm — The Gas-
coyne River — The West Coast — Detention by bad weather
— Return to the dep6t — Robbery by the natives — Return
to the Swan — Shipwreck of the crew— The Murchison
River — The Arrowsmith — Other western streams — Dread
ful sufferings— Arrival at Perth  414

xvi CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE XXIV.
STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. PAGE
The Fitzroy Eiver— The Adelaide Eiver— The Victoria— The
Fitzmaurice — The Albert— The Flinders — Discoveries by
the Cedar Sawyers — The M'Leay — The Clarence — Other
rivers ......... 426

CHAPTEE XXV.
THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND.
Eyre's exploration near Adelaide — The Flinders Eange — The
Broughton — The Rocky Eiver — Mount Remarkable —
Mount Eyre — Port Lincoln — Overland route to Mount
Arden — Gawler Range — Baxter Eange — Governor Gawler's
explorations — Fate of Mr. Bryan — McMillan in Gipps-
land — Strzelecki in the Alps — Mount Kosciusko — Ter
rible journey overland to Western Port . . . 436

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NEW HOLLAND
discovered iro 1644.

(tofaceQiap J^Mstory of
Exploratum, in, JustraZia,)

REDUCED CHART OF AUSTRALIA BY VANGONDY
(FROM COLLANDERS TERRA AUSTRA.U5 COGNITA , LONDON. 1764)

VuuxntSrodks, UtkLondon,

DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION
OF AUSTRALIA.

CHAPTER I.
EARLY VOYAGES.
Various claims to first discovery — Early voyages of the Portuguese — Dis
covery of Australia before the year 1540 — Manoel Godina de Heredia in
1601 — The Dutch explorers — The Duyphen in 1606 — Torres later in the
same year — Early Dutch voyages — Dirk Hartog in 1616- — Houtman's
Abrolhos — Prevost's errors — Edels in 1619 — The Leuwin in 1622 — The
Pera and Arnhem in 1623 — Nuyts in 1627 — De Witt and Pelsart in
1628— Pool, 1636— Tasman, 1642— The Vergulde JDraeck in 1656—
Dampier in 1688 — Vlamingh in 1696 — Dampier again — Other Dutch navi
gators.
What we designate the continent of Australia has not
always been known by so euphonious and appropriate a
name. To our forefathers of the last century it was
spoken of as New Holland. Before that, the Dutch
called it Terra Australis. The Spaniards had had a
share in its nomenclature previously, and had called it
Terra Australis del Espiritu Sancto ; and in the earliest
known maps it has the name . of Jave la Grande. It
was Captain Flinders who settled its present appella
tion ; and certainly this is not the least debt the
country owes him. The name is well known enough
in the present day ; for the land which bears it' has
already had a large influence in the destinies of the
world, and its future greatness is already dimly fore
seen. It has even been called the empire of the
antipodes. This, however, is an exaggeration. Having
in all its wide extent a population of little more than a
VOL. T. B

2 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
third that of London, it is premature to call it an
empire, or to look upon it, with all its rapid progress, as
more than a promising colony, which administers its
own laws now, and may by-and-by be able to protect
itself. No one, however, can doubt that the continent
is large and of immense importance in the geography
of the world ; and yet, great as it is, its discoverer is
unknown, and the date of the discovery only guessed
at. There are two reasons to be assigned for this.
The early voyages to the continent were made by the
Portuguese and Dutch. What the Spanish did was
very little, and they carefully concealed it. What the
Portuguese did has unaccountably become lost. It
seems that the latter were most jealous of their dis
coveries, probably lest other nations should monopolize
them ; and it is asserted that the punishment of death
was threatened against any one who should export cer
tain charts from the kingdom. No wonder, then, that
we can get no record from them. But with the Dutch
the case is different. It used to be asserted that they
most selfishly kept their geographical knowledge ^to
themselves ; but it appears that this is untrue. Many
geographical works were published, under the direction
of the Dutch East India Company, in the commence
ment of the 17th century, and any new voyage of
interest was freely made public.
Discoveries of smaller importance were not made
known, probably for the same reasons that some stupid
books are not published now. They would not sell.
The most enthusiastic admirer of Australia must admit
that all of the coast which the Dutch were likely to
have seen — namely, from Sharks' Bay round to Cape
Leveque — would not form a theme for any lively
description. The shore is almost an uninterrupted
succession of low, barren sand-hills, destitute of grass
and water,_ without any higher land appearing over
them. Neither were the natives particularly interest
ing. They were naked and extremely shy ; so that if
a Dutchman did succeed in labouring over the sand
hills to get a nearer view of the savages, he only got
some of their rude implements of warfare, and these

EARLY VOYAGES. 3
were thrown at him. No wonder, then, that such
voyages were not published. Many of them still
remain buried in the archives of the East India Com
pany, or contained in that huge mausoleum of papers
which that once famous institution has left at the
Hague as a monument to its memory. It will likewise
want great explorers and energetic men to draw thence
the record of voyages so long lost, of which it may be
said, as of the Herculanean papyri : —
Sed quam non motus teme valuere nee ignes,
Perdere, scriptoris pagina dira valet :
En iteruni tetris misere tot mersa ruinis,
Boyardi in libro tota sepulta jacet.
But sometimes Dutch captains made the discovery
of Australia in a most unpleasant manner, by finding
it under the ship's keel when they least expected it.
In this case, the shipwreck which ensued was always of
sufficient interest to secure publication, and thus we
have the record of some voyages which would other
wise have been lost. They will appear as this work
proceeds. Having, therefore, given some of the causes
of the uncertainty on the subject, the earliest known
records are submitted to the reader.
Some suspicion of a southern land would seem to have
existed among the ancients, from remarkable passages
in the writings of Seneca, Theopompus, and Manilius.
The first merely speaks of later days when Oceanus
shall relax the bonds of the universe, and a new earth
and new orbs shall be discovered. Theopompus relates
a conversation between a demi-god and a mortal, the
former of whom speaks of lands existing outside the
ocean which circumscribes Europe, Asia, and Libya,
where men are twice our stature, and there are big
animals and mighty beasts. Manilius distinctly speaks
of a habitable part of the southern hemisphere, which
part, he says, lies under our feet. What makes this
quotation more remarkable is, that in it he is speaking
of the spherical form of the earth.*
* For the most of the facts and quotations in this chapter I am indebted
to Mr. Major's admirable and learned work, " Early Voyages to Terra Aus
tralis," published by the Hakluyt Society.
* B 2

4 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
But I apprehend that no one will regard these
passages as more than happy guesses, or the mere
legends of poetry. It might be interesting to speculate
how it would be possible for the truth of Australia's
existence to percolate from the savages of one nation to
another, but more than speculation it could never be.
It is useless, therefore, to pursue it further. Neither
need we mention other Greek and Latin authors from
whom such legends have arisen.
A claim is made on behalf of the Chinese for the
discovery of the Australian continent at a very remote
period. Marco Polo gives a description of some large
island lying to the south-east of Java, the particulars
of which, it is presumed, he learned in the Celestial
Empire. Mr. Marsden, the translator of Marco Polo,
and after him Mr. Major, have shown that the coun
tries referred to were islands in the Indian archipelago.
The next claim is as easily disposed of. It is made
on behalf of Binot Paulmier de Gonneville, who sailed
from Honfleur in 1503, on a voyage to the South Seas.
It appears that he rounded the Cape of Good Hope in
safety, and was then overtaken by a storm, which
caused him to lose all knowledge of where he was.
When a calm returned, he steered southward. This
course brought him to a land where he remained six
months, and then returned to France, bringing with
him one of the inhabitants. The ship was plundered
by an English corsair on its return, so that the journals
were lost ; but a declaration was made by De Gonne
ville and his officers as to the facts of their voyage, and
sent to the Admiralty of France. Many. years after,
the great-grandson of the native brought to Europe on
this voyage, petitioned the Pope to be allowed to form
an expedition for the conversion of the natives of the
country of his ancestors.
The account of the voyage, printed with the peti
tion, is the only narrative on the subject now extant.
Many have supposed that the country thus visited was
Australia ; but this view is quite untenable, for a simple
reason : De Gonneville describes the inhabitants of his
new country as being already far advanced in civiliza-

EARLY VOYAGES. 5
tion ; and this could in no degree apply to any portion
of Australia. There is one more claim to be disposed of before
coming to the real discoveries of the continent. It is
made on behalf of Magalhaens as one of the results of
his celebrated voyage round the world, made in 1520,
in the ship Vittoria. The assertion was made in 1855
by Aldama Ayula, of Madrid, and he pointed for a
confirmation of his views to a magnificently illuminated
map, made in 1570 by Vaz Domado, and formerly pre
served in the Carthusian monastery of Evora. At the
request of Mr. Major, Dr. John Martin has recently
examined that map. He states that it contains no land
laid down to the south of New Guinea ; but that,
separated from the rest of the chart by the bordering
scale of parallels of latitude, there is a line of coast
running from west to east, with a little southing.
Supposing that the whole sheet were meant to consti
tute one map, this could not be Australia, for it lies
north-east of New Guinea ; neither is there any land
known which would at all correspond to it in that
position, especially with such large rivers as the chart
represents it to have. It is supposed, therefore, to be a
marginal map of the coast of the Magellan Straits, and
some of the names correspond with that locality. Sub
sequent chartographers mistook it for a chart of the
north coast of New Guinea, and hence, in all subse
quent maps, the latter island has upon its north side all
the names of Magalhaens' chart.*
For a long time the world was accustomed to
believe that the continent was first seen by Abel
Tasman in 1642, and this is asserted in nearly every
work upon the subject, published up to the time of
Flinders. A better acquaintance with geographical
writers made the public aware that the date of the
disco very, was some years earlier.. At last it seemed to
be agreed that the Gulf of Carpentaria was the first
part of Australia seen by the Dutch, sometime about
* Magalhaens was a Portuguese. The Spaniards call him Magalhanes, and
the French Magellan, which latter name is always used with reference to the
Straits discovered by him. See " Hawksworth's Coll. Voy." Lond., 1773.

6 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the month of March, 1606, beating the Spaniard Torres
(of Quiros' expedition) by five months only. Then the
inquiry was thought to be set at rest. Probably it
would have ended there but for Mr. Major, whose
investigations have placed the discovery still further
back, and given the honour to the Portuguese. The
facts are briefly as follow : — Six very ancient maps are
in existence, on which, immediately below Java, and
separated from it by a narrow strait (evidently an
imaginary and not a surveyed line), a large continent
is laid down, whose general outline in some degree
corresponds with the coast of Australia. The earliest
of these maps is in the British Museum, presented
thereto by Sir Joseph Banks. It formerly belonged to
Harley, Earl of Oxford. Two of the others are also in
the British Museum, and all the six seem to be copies
of a French one ; but the names of the geographical
features where they are. marked are, with few excep
tions, Portuguese.
Some of the charts bear the clearest internal evi
dence of having been made prior to the year 1540, and
therefore the discovery of the land referred to must
have preceded that time. The names of the geo
graphical features being in Portuguese, leaves very
little doubt as to the country of the discoverers, but it
has not been clearly ascertained why all the maps
extant on the subject should have come from French
sources. _ No one, however, can look at the maps without
being struck with the discrepancy between the Aus
tralia there depicted and what we know it to be in
fact. The explanation of this is best given by Mr.
Major, who says : " With respect to longitude, it may
be advanced, that with all the discrepancies observed in
the maps here presented, there is no other country but
Australia, lying between the same parallel and of the
same extent, between the east coast of Africa and the
west coast of America, and that Australia does in
reality lie between the same meridians, as the great
mass of the country here laid down." *
* " Early Voyages to Terra Australis."

EARLY VOYAGES. 7
It may therefore be considered established that
Australia was discovered by the Portuguese prior to
1540, and was known among them as Great Java or
Terra Australis. Lest any doubt should remain upon
this head, Mr. Major cites also the following passage
from C. Wytfliet's " Descriptionis Ptolemaic^ Augmen-
tum Louain," 1598 :— " The Australis Terra is the
most southern of all lands, and is separated from New
Guinea by a narrow strait. Its shores are hitherto but
little known, since after one voyage and another that
route has been deserted, and seldom is the country
visited, unless when sailors are driven there by storms.
The Australis Terra begins at two or three degrees from the
equator, and is ascertained by some to be of so great an
extent, that if it were thoroughly explored, it would be
regarded as a fifth part of the world."
But who was the discoverer ? This has not been
ascertained, but many ingenious theories have been
suggested. It should be remarked that Mr. Major was
not the first to draw attention to these maps as furnish
ing information of an earlier discovery of Australia.
They were alluded to by Flinders, and in 1807 they
formed the subject of a paper read before the French
Institute by M. Barbie du Bocage. On this occasion
he pointed out that the charts were known to exist in
England, and probably furnished some hints to Captain
Cook as to the direction in which he was to steer. He
then enters into an elaborate essay ; first, to show why
the discovery of the continent remained a secret, and
secondly, to prove that Gomez de Sequiera, a Spaniard,
was the person who made it.
The second point of the argument is very ably dis
posed of by Mr. Major, who shows that Gomez never
was near the locality in question. But the first part is
more probable. M. du Bocage undertakes to show
why the Portuguese kept their discovery a secret.
He says that an arbitrary line had been agreed upon
between the Spanish and Portuguese governments to
prevent the discoveries of either nation entrenching
upon the limits of what they considered their respective
properties. The Portuguese had recently obtained the

8 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Moluccas from the Spanish Crown, thereby tacitly
acknowledging the right of the Spaniards to the area
in which Australia lies. When the latter was dis
covered, they were anxious, of course, to make use of it
for themselves ; but as this was impossible just then,
they kept its existence a secret. Probably also they
feared that in such a large extent of country a settle
ment might be made for trading purposes by another
nation, and thereby considerably injure their recent
acquisition in the Moluccas. This is the only explana
tion that has been offered. Certainly it is not quite
satisfactory, but the circumstance is hardly of consider
able importance.
It is singular that one of these maps should contain
French equivalents for three names given by Cook to
the same places on the east coast. But it seems to be
no more than a coincidence. Even supposing, how
ever, that Cook had seen the maps and the names, one
cannot see how the circumstance would in the least
detract from his merit. He only professed to have
explored the eastern parts of the Australian coast ; and
in what he did these imperfect and rude charts could
have been of no assistance to him whatever.
Another visit to Australia in early times has been
recently made known to us by the indefatigable Mr.
Major. In an old chart of the world in the British
Museum, Australia is depicted, and accompanied by a
statement to the effect that it was discovered by Manoel
Godina de Heredia, in 1601. It is known that Godina
was a Spaniard and a pilot, but nothing more, as yet,
has been ascertained about him or his voyage. Doubt
less, Mr. Major will soon supply that deficiency.
We come now to a different period : no longer the
period of _ doubts, conjectures, or surmises^ but one
of authentic facts, solid and substantial, like the people
and their ships which supplied them. These are the
discoveries of the Dutch. They were quite new at
geographical discoveries at this time. For a long time
these seas saw no flags but those of Spain and Portugal,
and heard no voices except those speaking the grand
and sonorous languages of the Peninsula. For more

EARLY VOYAGES. 9
than one hundred years these people — splendid in their
liberality for prosecuting discovery, splendid in their
courage and energy — had explored the wild intricacies
of these remote parts without any rival. Abroad, they
made new conquests daily, and at home their blood and
treasure were freely spent in trying to conquer a people
who were destined to supplant them. The Spanish
dominion in the Netherlands was teaching the people
that if they were mastered in the struggle, there were
other lands besides their own on which they might fight
Spain. So, in 1598, an expedition to the South Seas
was fitted out by the Dutch Republic. For a long time
before this, the Dutch were learning all about the Indies
from the Spanish merchants for whom they worked ;
and many a Dutchman was employed by them in these
Eastern possessions, who returned and spread the news
of the immense wealth to be acquired in those distant
shores.* In 1602, the Dutch East India Company was estab
lished. The glory of the Spanish marine was now
upon the wane. It still shone with the names of Torres
and Quiros, in the East, while a host of energetic men
were pushing forward discovery in the West. But its
full glory had departed. It was the sunset of a splendid
and bright day, whose noon- day splendour will not be
forgotten as long as the name of Columbus can be pro
nounced. In 1606, we have a record of a visit to Australia
made by the Dutch yacht Duyphen. These Nether-
landers were early astir, it appears, in looking around
them in their new possessions. The account of the
voyage, as it has reached us, is of the most meagre
kind. It only informs us that, on the 18th November,
1605, the Dutch yacht Duyphen was despatched from
Bantam, to explore the island of New Guinea, and that
she sailed along what was thought to be the west side of
that country, as far as 19° 45' S. lat. The coast was
found to be a desert, and inhabited in some places by
wild, cruel, black savages, by whom some of the crew
* " Histoire Philosophique et Politique des Etablissements et du Commerce
des Europeens dans les deux Indes." Par. M. l'Abbe Raynal. Geneva, 1775.

10 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
were murdered. For this reason they could not learn
anything of the land or waters as they were _ desired,
and, for want of provisions and other necessities, they
were obliged to leave the discovery unfinished. The
furthest point was marked on their maps Cape Keer
Weer, or Turnagain. This was in the Gulf of Carpen
taria, and, according to Flinders, a little to the south
west of Cape York. It was at that time all supposed
to be a part of New Guinea.*
From this it would appear that even correct maps of
Australia can be dated back to a very early period in
Dutch colonial history. Of course, two hundred and
sixty years does not seem a very long time, but with
reference to the state of navigation, or rather, the
primitive state of the ships, and the knowledge of the
navigators, it is removed from our times by almost
ages. In 1606 (for in that year was the discovery
made, since in June the Duyphen returned to Banda),
the destruction of the Armada was but a thing of
yesterday, and Drake, Hawkins, and Frobisher, had
scarcely been ten years dead. At the same time,
Galileo was lecturing on astronomy, Newton was not
yet born, and Lord Bacon was commencing his literary
career, by writing stray essays. Truly, the Continent
came into notice in good company.
Scarcely had the Duyphen been absent five months,
when the keel of the white man's ships again made a
track upon the desolate waters of Carpentaria. It was
to the last expiring effort of the Spanish marine in the
fields of discovery that the visit was due. There had
been rumours of a great southern continent long rife
among the Spaniards, probably from some vague legends
like those in the case of America, and probably also,
like some glimmerings of light, the truth had leaked
out from the Portuguese navigators. In 1567, Alvaro
de Mendana, in a voyage from Callao, discovered the
Solomon Isles and several others.f In 1595, he made
another voyage, discovering the Marquesas and the
islands called subsequently by Carteret, Queen Char-
* " Flinders' Voyage to Terra Australis." London, 1814.
t " Collection of Voyages," by Samuel Purchas. 5 vols.

EARLY VOYAGES. 11
lotte's Islands. In his second voyage he had for his
pilot Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, a Portuguese, who
believed that at the Island of Santa Cruz, the great
southern land had been discovered. Shortly after his
return he memorialized the Spanish Government to be
allowed to prosecute his voyage in search for the far-
famed Australis Terra. His request was granted by
Philip III., and he returned to Peru with full powers
to continue the discoveries of Mendana. He sailed
from Callao on 21st December, 1605, with two vessels
and a corvette. The second vessel was commanded by
Luis Yaez de Torres. Great things were anticipated
from this expedition, which was splendidly equipped ;
but its discoveries were not very important until they
reached the New Hebrides. These were immediately
concluded to be the great southern land. The islands
were named Tierra Austral del Espiritu Sancto. But here
the expedition may be said to have terminated. While
lying in the bays of one of these islands, Quiros most
unaccountably sailed away from his companion, on the
night of the 11th June, 1606. Torres had no thought
of returning, but continued his explorations to the
westward. He soon found that their Australia was an
island, and in August reached the south coast of New
Guinea, as he thought, but now known as the Louisiade
chain of islands. " From these," he says, " we went along
300 leagues of coast, and diminished the latitude 2i°,
which brought us into 9°. From hence we fell in with
a bank of from three to nine fathoms, which extends
along the coast to 7i° S. lat., and the end of it is
in 5°. We could not go further on, for the many shoals
and great currents, so we were obliged to sail south
west in that depth to 11° S. lat. There is all over it an
archipelago of islands without number, by which we
passed, and the end of the eleventh day the bank
became shoaler. There were very large islands, and
there appeared more to the southward. They were
inhabited by black people, very corpulent, and naked.
Their arms were lances, and arrows, and clubs of stone,
ill-fashioned. We could not get any of their arms.
We caught in all this land twenty persons, of different

12 DISCOVERY AND ^EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
nations, that with them we might be able to give a
better account to your Majesty. They give much
notice of other people, though, as yet, they do not make
themselves well understood."
From the latter parts of the coast described, Torres
stood to the northward. There can be no doubt that
he sailed through the straits which bearhis name, and
which separate Australia from New Guinea, but I can
hardly agree with Mr. Major in his opinion that the
large islands seen to the south were the hills of Cape
York. In the first place, Torres calls them islands,
and though that may be explained, the description he
gives of the natives is in no way applicable to the
aborigines of Australia. They are not corpulent, and
such a thing as a bow and arrow is unknown among
them in the whole extent of the continent, and nearly
so in the adjacent islands * The description is more
applicable to some of the islands of Torres straits. If,
therefore, Torres did not see the mainland of the
continent, his only connexion with the Australian
exploration is in discovering that New Guinea and the
great southern land were separated by a strait. Even
this fact was ignored by subsequent geographers ; for
all the results of Torres' expedition lay buried in the
archives of Manilla until 1762.
What became of Torres we never learn. He was
badly received at Manilla, and immediately despatched
to Spain the three monks who were with him, with a
statement of his grievances, and also the reasons why
he was unable to proceed with his ship. This despatch
is the only record we have of the voyage. Whether it
ever reached its destination we know not ; for the one
found was discovered by the British in Manilla, among
the archives of the Spanish Government. Quiros
returned home after parting with him, and reached
Callao nine months after he had left it. He continued
to petition for another expedition to further his disco
veries, but without success. The Spanish Government
* Bows and arrows are sometimes, however, seen at the extreme end of
Cape York, but only among a tribe which has recently settled there from the
Darnly Islands. See Jukes's " Voyage of H.M.S. Fly." London, 1847.

EARLY VOYAGES. 13
must have regarded these explorers as the most exacting
race of mortals, and explorations the most expensive of
amusements. The more they got, the more they
wanted ; each exploration only served as a prelude to
another. There is no doubt that the Spanish authori
ties were tired of it, and ceased to take interest in its
results. Quiros begged to be furnished with means,
but in vain. He died in 1614, unsatisfied, and probably
unrewarded. The next voyage to Australia was by the Dutch.
It was undertaken in 1617, by a small vessel, and we
know nothing more of the result than that it had little
success. But about this time discoveries began to come
in thick and fast. Yessels bound for Bantam were
obliged to pass very near the longitude of Australia.
If they were driven at all to the eastward by storms
or currents, they were sure to meet some part of its
sandy shores. They were not exactly the vessels for
exploration. When a ship was being equipped for the
Dutch possessions, it was a regular event in Amsterdam ;
for it was not like one of our modern clippers sailing
once a month with general cargo and such passengers
as they could pick up. It was an affair of long delibera
tion. There was merchandize for a long course of
trading ; there were specie and supplies of various kinds
for the settlements. Properly speaking, there were no
passengers ; everyone on board was a part of the
expedition. But this often included great personages.
There were frequent changes of officers in the settle
ments ; and thus presidents, governors-general, ambassa
dors, and officials, enshrined in all the importance of
high-sounding names, to say nothing of the gold lace
and coloured clothes, with which such names were
accompanied, often formed part of the motley crew.
And then the ships themselves : their images must be
familiar to any acquainted with the Dutch paintings
of that period. The high poop and the solid broad
prow ; the heavy masts and the loose entanglement of
swinging cordage ; the quarterdeck with hanging rows
of buckets surmounted by the great, big lamps, all
lumbering and heavy, and in thorough keeping with

14 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the clumsy costume of the phlegmatic Netherlander.
It seems difficult to connect all this with Australia,
where cities like Ballarat run up in a few years, and
clipper ships run to and fro like Italian proas.
In 1\IQ, one of these big floating castles, named
the Endraght, or Concord, drifted its huge proportions
on to the west coast, and anchored in a bay then called
after its commander, Dirk Hartog's Bay. This was the
Sharks' Bay of Dampier, not a very delectable locality,
as we shall learn by-and-by. Before reaching this
inlet, the Endraght passed an archipelago of coral
islands, ugly and treacherous, but surrounded by a
warning ring of roaring breakers. These reefs were
named Houtman's Abrolhos, the first title after a Dutch
' captain, the second after a Portuguese expression,
meaning, significantly enough, " open your eyes." Other
vessels made a nearer and more unfortunate acquaint
ance with reefs, as we shall soon see. Dirk Hartog
left a record of his visit, on a tin plate, which was
found by Ylamingh eighty years after, during which
time geographical knowledge had not progressed very
much. Ylamingh' s plate was found with Hartog's,
nailed to a post, in 1803, by the officers of Baudin's
expedition. In 1838, both had entirely disappeared.*
Mr. Major shows that the Abbe Prevost, President
De Brosses, and after both, our countryman, Callander,
have fallen into a strange error, in supposing that a
discovery of Arnhern's land was made in 1618. No
voyage of discovery was made at that time. De Brosses,
after mentioning this imaginary voyage, states rather
gratuitously, that Yan Diemen, Governor-General of
the Dutch possessions in India, about this time greatly
prosecuted discovery in the southern hemisphere ; that
is, we must suppose that he may have suggested this
voyage, which never took place.f The other facts con
nected with discoveries made in Australia by outward-
bound Dutch ships are of the most imperfect kind.
* " Expedition to North-West Australia," by G. Grey. London, 1841.
f " Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Australis." Paris, 1756. The copy
in my possession has no author's name, but is evidently the work of De
Brosses.

EARLY VOYAGES. 15
They can only be enumerated, for their mere occurrence
is all that can be ascertained about them ; even this
much would have been lost, but that they are preserved
in the letter of instruction given to Tasman, when, to
guide him on his voyage, a relation of all that had been
previously done is supplied. Apart from this, we only
know that a vessel named the Mauritius is supposed to
have made some discoveries near the north-west cape,
especially of a river named the Willem's River. This
must have been the Hardey, or the Ashburton, recently
discovered by F. Gregory, in an expedition from
Western Australia.
After this, the list which follows is from Tasman's
letter. John Edels discovered a portion of the south
western coast, which bore the name of Edels' Land in
consequence. A Dutch vessel named the Leuwin
(Lioness) passed round the great south-westerly cape,
which received in consequence the name of the vessel.
An expedition was undertaken in January, 1623, in the
yacht Pera and Arnhem, which sailed from Amboyna
under the command of Jan Carstens. Two supposed
islands were sighted and named the Arnhem and
Spilt. The vessels were then separated. The yacht
Pera pursued the exploration. She sailed along the
south coast of New Guinea, to a cove situated in 10°
south lat., and thence to Cape Keerweer, and further
southward as far as 17° ; when a river was found and
named Statem River. The land was seen stretching to
the westward far beyond this, but the Pera now returned
to Amboyna. The first discovery of the southern coast of Australia
was made in 1627, and named Nuyts Land. There is
reason for believing that this was not the name of the
commander of the expedition, and the ship's name was
Guide Zeepaard. These discoveries are supposed to have
extended from Cape Leuwin to very near the end of the
Australian Bight, and very poor discoveries they were.
With the exception of a little elevated and grassy land
near King George's Sound, which very likely the Dutch
did not see, there is nothing but barren sand hills, arid
cliffs, and dismal salt lagoons. Unfortunately, too, had

16 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the explorers gone along the other or western side,
they could not have seen much better.
In 1628, De Witt's Land was named probably by
De Witt himself, in sailing along this coast on his return
from India. In the same year eleven vessels were
equipped by the Dutch East India Company. They
sailed from Texel on the 28th October. After they had
passed the Cape of Good Hope, one of them, the Batavia,
commanded by Francis Pelsart, became separated from
the others in a storm. While beating about for some
time, the crew discovered Australia, but in a most
dismal manner. The vessel, like all the Dutch East
Indiamen, carried an enormous crew besides passengers,
making a living freight of human beings utterly unpro
vided for in case of accident. The Batavia drifted about
for many days, the pilots fondly fancying that they were
steering for Bantam, but without the slightest idea
where they were. One bright moonlight night, fair
and calm, while the ship was going easily along, the
master of the vessel called attention to the white appear
ance of the water beyond them. The steersman merely
said it was the moonlight reflection from the waters.
But he was wrong. It was foam from breakers, and
when the ship got fairly into it, she struck heavily.
Pelsart, who was ill in bed, immediately ran on deck, and
upbraided the master, asking where they were. He
replied simply enough, that God only knew that.
Meanwhile, they tried the lead, and found 48 feet of
water ahead and less astern. An old tub of the old
school she must certainly have been if she could not
float in that. However, float she would not, so they
commenced throwing the cannon overboard to lighten
her. This might have succeeded, but a storm of wind
and rain arose, says Pelsart, in his quaint journal, and
the vessel began to bump most ominously upon the rocks
around them. Then they cut away the mainmast, but
this only increased their danger, because it became
entangled in the rigging and lay alongside. The
journal is worth quoting at this stage of the proceedings.
" They could see no land, except an island which was
about the distance of three leagues, and two small

EARLY VOYAGES. 17
islands, or rather rocks, which lay nearer. They imme
diately sent the master to examine them, who returned
about nine in the morning, and reported that the sea at
high water did not cover them, but that the coast was so
rocky and full of shoals that it would be very difficult
to land upon them. They resolved, however, to run the
risk, and to send most of their company on shore to
pacify the women, children, sick people, and several
as were out of their wits with fear." * The last statement,
though not very clear, shows that the good ship
Batavia had a very miscellaneous collection of people
on board, and gives us a glimpse of what an unpleasant
thing a passage in such vessels was, even where one
was not shipwrecked. The journalist goes on to say,
" About ten o'clock they embarked these (women,
children, and sick) in their shallop and skiff, and per
ceiving that the vessel began to break up, they
redoubled their diligence. They likewise endeavoured
to get their bread up, but did not take the same care
of the water, not reflecting in their fright that they
might be much distressed on shore for want of it. But
what hindered them most of all was, the brutal beha
viour of some of the crew, who made themselves drunk
with the wine, of which no care was taken. In short,
such was the confusion, that they made but three trips
that day, carrying over to the island 180 persons, twenty
barrels of bread, and some small casks of water. The
master returned on board towards evening, and told the
captain that it was to no purpose to send more provi
sions on shore, since the people only wasted those they
had already. Upon this the captain went in the shallop
to put things in order, and was there informed that
there was no water to be found upon the island."
The rest of the story must be stated briefly. Water
was found at last on one of the islands, but it was a
long time before it was discovered, because the holes
in which it was, used to fill and empty themselves at
the rise and fall of the tide, and were naturally con-
* This account is taken from Callander's " Terra Australis Cognita ; or, a
Collection of Voyages to the Australis Terra." London, 1763. It is, I regret
to say, for the honesty of our countryman, only an unacknowledged translation
of De Brosses' work.
VOL. I. C

18 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
eluded to be salt water. When things were a little in
order, Pelsart put a deck to one of the ship's boats and
coasted along towards Batavia. This he reached in
safety. Those who were left behind had a sad time of
it. Half of them mutinied, and tried to murder the
other half for the sake of getting control of the cargo.
They nearly succeeded, but the few survivors,_ fighting
resolutely for their lives, succeeded in escaping to a
neighbouring island. Here they were exposed to daily
attacks from the mutineers, until Pelsart returned.
The narrative tells us, with admirable brevity, that
the majority voted for the immediate execution of the
mutineers, which was then and there carried into
effect. In proceeding to Batavia, Pelsart was enabled to see
a good deal of the western coast. The mainland was
about sixteen miles north by west from the place where
they suffered shipwreck. He reported the shore as low,
naked, and exceedingly rocky, being nearly the same
height as that near Dover. Further on, it presented
one continuous rock of red colour, and of an equal
height. Pelsart landed above Shark's Bay, and found
that there was in front of the coast a " table of sand,"
one mile in breadth, and none but brackish water to be
found on it. Beyond this, the country was flat, without
vegetation or trees, with nothing in view but ant-hills,
and. these so large that from a distance they were taken
to be the habitations of the natives. Some of the savages
were seen carrying clubs, and apparently anxious to
surprise and massacre the boat's crew.
In April, 1636, two vessels, named the Amsterdam
and Wezel, sailed to explore Australia, under the
command of Captain Pool. The latter was murdered at
New Guinea, and the expedition returned without
effecting anything. Up to this time no expedition had
been undertaken for the sole purpose of exploring the
south land. Pool's sad beginning and ending was not
very encouraging to the Dutch, but still they persevered.
In 1642, another expedition was equipped. This was
placed under the command of the celebrated Tasman.
On the 14th August, 1642, he sailed from Batavia with

EARLY VOYAGES. 19
two vessels, the Heemskirh and Zeehaan, on a voyage of
discovery. The Zeehaan was merely a fly-boat or
tender. The expedition sailed to the Mauritius,
which they reached, on the 5th September. That island,
which had been first discovered by the Spaniards, who
had named it Cerne, was subsequently claimed by the
Dutch and re-named Maurice, after the Prince of
Orange. At the time of Tasman's visit it was governed
by Yan Steelan, and was far from being considered an
important place.* On the 4th of the following month, the
vessels set sail again, and on the 27th it was determined
to keep a man constantly at the masthead, promising
three reals and a pot of arrack to the one who should
first discover land. Their plan was to steer along the
44th parallel of latitude, until the 150th meridian of
longitude, and if they had not then seen land to keep
more to the northward.
On the 17th November, they concluded that they had
passed the extreme southern limits of the great south
land, but five days afterwards they saw land bearing
east by north. This was Tasmania, and the portion
first seen has since been known as Point Hibbs.
Towards evening the land became more distinct, and
something more than the mere outline could be made
out. It was not the usual sandy shore and level table
land. High mountains of conical form could be seen
far inland, and between the. rocky precipices and dark
gorges of the hills a dense, dark forest. It was not until
the 1st December that they anchored in a bay, called
Fredrick Hendrick Bay, and the continent then received
the name of Yan Diemen, then Governor of Batavia,
a name which most properly has been discontinued for
Tasmania. On the following morning, the boats rowed eagerly
in. Every one was anxious to see what the new land
was like. It was a marvellous place. The scenery
was wild and picturesque beyond description, and,
further inland, mountains seemed to rise one above
* Grant's " History of the Mauritius."
c2

20 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
another in endless confusion. All were clothed with
trees, at which the phlegmatic Dutch gazed up in stu
pefied astonishment. They remarked some, 60 feet from
the ground to the branches. This prepared them for
other wonders; and as they found none sufficiently
exciting, they were not long in drawing inferences of
their existence. They go on therefore to state, that the
bark of the trees was taken off by flint, with steps cut
to climb for birds' nests, full five feet apart, and indica
tive of a very tall people. They saw marks such as
are left by the claws of a tiger, and brought back
excrements of some quadruped. No wonder that after
this they should return to the ships ; quicker than they
came, we may reasonably suppose. It must have been
some scared look in their honest round faces which
induced the pilot to tell them, as they boarded, that he
had heard the sound of voices and a little gong — the
latter fact, of course, being simple embellishment.
On the 3rd, they went into another bay, but the
surf, they say, prevented their landing ; the five feet
footsteps not being forgotten, we may be sure. The
carpenter, however, was a brave man, and swam ashore,
and near four remarkable trees erected a post, and left
the Prince's flag flying upon it. This was the last the
crew saw of Tasmania. The rock on which the flag
was raised still stands, with a fringe of grey ironstone
shingle and sheltered under the castellated cliffs of trap
rock. It is embosomed by a noble forest, whose green
shades encroach upon the verge of the ocean.* It is
a pity that more observations were not made at the
time, but the reason is obvious. The five feet foot
steps did it all, for the journal significantly adds, that
" the inhabitants did not show themselves, and we sus
pected some to be not far from thence watching our
doing."f Tasman was again sent out in 1644, to examine the
* Gell in " Tasmania Journal," vol. ii.
t Burney's " Chronological History of Discovery." Lond. : 1813. It should
be mentioned that readers of Burney should verify his authorities, for he
sometimes quotes very incorrectly. " Tasman's Journal " is entitled " Journal
of Discovery by me, Abel Jans Tasman, of a Voyage from Batavia for making
Discoveries of the Great South Land." 1642.

EARLY VOYAGES. 21
north and north-western coasts of Australia, and to
ascertain whether New Guinea were separated from it.
In the latter part of his duty he failed, and it was left to
Captain Cook to establish the existence of the straits
which Torres had first passed through. But Tasman did
a great deal, if he did not do all. He succeeded in ex
ploring the nosth-western portion of this continent as far
south as about the 22nd degree. Unfortunately, all
traces of his journal are lost. It is somewhat myste
rious how so celebrated an expedition could have been
so little known, but with the exception of a few
passages quoted by Flinders from Witsen, nothing has
come down to us. The passages are as follow : —
"In lat. 13° 8' south, long. 146° 18' (probably
Cape Ford, near Yictoria River), the coast is barren.
The people are bad and wicked, shooting at the Dutch
with arrows (spears), without provocation, when they
were coming on shore. It is here very populous.
" In 14° 58', long. 138°, the people are savage and go
naked; none can understand them. In 16° 10' (all this
must have been between Cape Londonderry and Yictoria
River) the people swam on board of a Dutch ship, and
when they received a present of a piece of linen, they laid
it on their heads in token of gratitude. Everywhere there
about the people are all malicious. They use arrows
and bows of such length that one end rests upon the
ground when shooting. They have also hazegayes and
kalawayes (weapons), and attacked the Dutch, but did
not know the execution of the guns." We presume
that this is a delicate way of saying that some of the
natives were shot. On their behalf we must say, that
they certainly did not attack the Dutch with those for
midable bows and arrows described. Such a thing as a
bow is unknown among all the Australian savages,
except in the islands of Torres Straits.
"In Hollandia Nova (about Roebuck Bay), Tasman
found naked black people with curly air, malicious and
cruel, using for arms bows and arrows (hazegayes,
&c, as before). They once came to the number of
fifty, double armed, dividing themselves into two parties.
intending to have surprised the Dutch, who had landed

22 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
twenty-five men, but the firing of the guns frightened
them so much that they took to flight. Their canoes
are made of the bark of trees, their coast is dangerous,
there is but little vegetation, the people have no
houses." * This was a bad character certainly, and
though nearly quite true, Tasman evidently relates it
with an animus against the whole tribe Australian.
" In 19° 35' (about Dampier's archipelago) the inha
bitants are very numerous, and threw stones at the
boats sent by the Dutch to the shore. They made
fires and smoke all along the coast, which it was
conjectured they did to give notice to their neighbours
of strangers being upon the coast. They appear to
live very poorly ; go naked ; eat yams and other
roots." This is all that we know from Tasman, and that is
little enough, beyond his description of the savages, and
his contempt for them. Something more, however, has
recently transpired. A curious map has been dis
covered lately by Mr. Major in the British Museum,
evidently copied from a chart laid down, perhaps, by
Tasman himself. On it, the coast is very accurately
delineated, the only errors being, where islands, such
as Mornington Island in Carpentaria, are drawn as if
they formed part of the mainland.
From this last voyage of Tasman, the name of
New Holland began to be applied to the great south
land, for it was now clearly understood that it formed
one immense continent, which did not extend to the
south pole. Its east side still, however, remained a
mystery. The north part of it was thought to be New
Guinea. The Gulf of Carpentaria is supposed to have
been named by Tasman after the governor of the East
India Company, who was then in Europe.t There is a
romantic story of his having also named Maria Island
after the daughter of Yan Diemen, to whom he was
Pacific ^"al'R(l0lAeiCti0^0!' tLe fV6rTal Yo^es of D^covery in the South
Pacinc Ocean. By Alex. Dalrymple. London: 1769.
t Prevost, in his « Histoire des Voyages," Paris, 1753, says that Carpentaria
was discovered by Pieter Carpenter, in 1662. De Brosses shows the error of
this by proving that Carpenter was Governor-General of the Dutch Indies
and went home m 1628. Sec also Major, ut supra. Introduct. p c '

EARLY VOYAGES. 23
engaged to be married, The tale is simple and pretty
and can do no harm ; but it is not true.
From Tasman, until the close of the 17th century,
many other voyages are supposed to have taken place.
Little by little the coast was more and more explored
— but by whom and when is a mystery. A vessel
named De Vergulde Draeck was lost on the Australian
coast, in her voyage to Batavia in 1656. Several ex
peditions were sent by the Company to rescue the
survivors from the wreck, and also, if possible, to ex
plore the country, but no important results were ob
tained. The locality of the wreck was, as usual, the
Houtman's Abrolhos.
The first explorer who breaks this long silence is
Captain William Dampier. As his name has now
become almost a part of Australian history, a few words
may be said as to his previous career.
He was born in 1652, of a respectable Somersetshire
family. He made two or three voyages in the merchant
service, and was also in the navy for a short time. In
1674 he went to Jamaica as a planter, and spent five
years between that island, Campeachy, and London. He
embarked in a privateer in 1679, and thenceforth his
adventures among the Buccaneers exceed the wildest of
tales of romance. In 1683 he went on a voyage round
the world under Captain Harvey, but it was not until
1688 that he visited Australia.
It was a buccaneering voyage under Captain Swan,
and he tells us, that being short of provisions, they stood
away to the northward of where he was intending to
go, in order to see New Holland.
On the 4th January he reached its shores some
where about Roebuck Bay, " the land lowe and a sandy
bay, but no shelter for us, therefore we run downe along
the shore, which lyes N. E. by E. 12 leagues. Wee
then came to a point with an iland by it  '. .
From this pointe the land runs more easterly and makes
a deepe bay with many Hands in it, the sixth day wee
came into this bay and anchored."
Dampier drew a sketch of this bay, or, as he says,
" drewe a drafte," but the sketch was lost by his boat

24 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
upsetting. His first care after anchoring, was to seek a
conference with the natives, who were anxiously watch
ing his proceedings ; but they fled when the boat neared
the land. Three days were spent searching for their
houses, " being in hopes," says Dampier, " to allure them
with toyes to a comerce." But no houses were found.
This was a great disappointment for Dampier's captain,
who anticipated refitting his ship on these shores. He
accordingly gave the land a bad character, and makes
out a very strong case of poverty against the natives. He
says they have no flesh, nor fowl, nor pulse, nor grain,
nor in fact anything, not even dogs nor cats ; " indeed,
they have noe occasion for such creetures, unless to eat
them." He describes how they caught fish by means of
" weares," in the bay, which he thought was a very
precarious means of subsistence. It seems, too, that
the crew must have made some sort of acquaintance with
them, for Dampier says that the produce of the day's
fishing is taken home to the families, who lie behind
a few boughs stuck up to keep the wind from them. He
also describes their weapons very correctly, adding, that
they must have been made with stone hatchets, like
those he had seen in the West Indies. He winds up his
description by speaking of their thin bodies and leanness,
which he said he judged came from their want of food.
Dampier's observations are singularly correct, and
seem to have been made with great regard for truth.
It is curious to compare them with those of Tasman.
The Dutchman is continually upbraiding the natives for
being cruel and murderous characters, complaining of
their killing or trying to kill his crew. The English
man finds fault with them principally because they had
nothing to eat.
The navigators did not leave the coast until the 12th
February following. It appears that while they remained,
the ship was hauled on shore, and thoroughly cleaned
and repaired. The men meanwhile got plenty of turtle.
When leaving, Dampier was near making Australia his
last resting-place, for he tells us that he suggested to
his captain the propriety of going to Fort St. George
or any settlement where the English had no fortifica-

EARLY VOYAGES. 25
tion ; and his thanks were to be " threatened to be turned
a-shore in New Holland for it."*
Long after this visit, that is in 1695, the Dutch
became anxious about a ship named Ridderschap, which
was missing, and which they naturally enough concluded
to be ashore on the Houtman's Abrolhos. Those ships
were put under the command of William Ylamingh, with
directions to search the coast as far as they could for
the wreck ; and, not finding it, to explore the shore.
The expedition sailed from Holland. It was ordered to
make some observations about Tristan d'Acunha, and
other islands on their route. All these things they ac
complished successfully, and on the morning of 25th
December, 1696, sighted the south land, very near the
entrance of Swan River. They described the coast as low
and sandy, stretching from north to south. Four days
subsequently they discovered an island, which they called,
from the abundance of rats' nests which were found upon
it, Rottenest Island. There was a smaller island to the
south of this, Garden Island, and the ships were anchored
almost between the two. They found the south-east side
rocky and stony. About three-quarters of a mile
inland were seven or eight great rocks, and here and
there were banks of good land stretching from the shore
up to them. The east side was sandy ; and, indeed, that
was the character of the greater part of the island,
which seemed to the Dutch quite unfit for cultivation.
In the middle, the island contained a few lagoons of
bad water. Having supplied themselves with wood and
water, a council was held as to the prudence of landing
on the main. It was agreed to do so with a strongly
armed party, amounting in all to eighty-six men.
On the 5th January, 1697, the party was disembarked
upon the shore. At first they marched to the eastward,
finding only gum-trees, shells, and parrots, until they
reached a deserted native hut, and shortly afterwards
some salt lakes. These salt lakes subsequently, proved
* It is worthy of remark that Dampier's vessel was supplied with water
here. There must be, therefore, some river in this locality. See his " New
Voyage round the World." London : 1697. Also Sloane MS. 3236, entitled
" The Adventures of William Dampier, with others who left Capt. Shcrpc,
in the South Seas."

26 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
to be the mouth of a river, upon which they embarked
in their boats. Soon a wonderful bird was seen gently
floating upon the waters as they rowed up, none other
than the vara avis, the black swan. Four were caught,
and two brought alive to Batavia. The person who
describes the voyage did not go up Swan River with
the crew ; he only says, that they went along this salt
water river for ten or twelve leagues inland, and found
neither good country, nor indeed anything worthy of
note. The reason of the chronicler's absence is worth
recording in his own pathetic language. " They brought
me the nut of a certain tree, having the taste of our
large Dutch beans, and those which were younger were
like a walnut. I ate five or six of them, and drank of
the water from the small pools, but after an interval of
four hours, I and five others who had eaten of these,
began to vomit so violently, that we were as dead men " !
Perhaps they were Dutch beans, though it may be doubted
whether even these have such an effect on dead men.
Another expedition was made up the river when our
friend was better. This time many traces of natives
were found, but none seen ; and they complimented our
Australian magpie's voice by imagining that it was
that of a nightingale. The country was again described
as sandy, and the vegetable productions poor. Plenty
of game was noticed, but it was very shy. One remark
of the explorer can be endorsed by any one who has
lived in Australia during one summer. The country,
he says, is free from vermin, but in the day-time one is
terribly tormented with flies.
From Swan River the expedition sailed northwards,
hauling as close along the coast as the nature of the
shore would allow them. It seemed sandy and desolate,
with such a terrible surf beating upon it, that they could
seldom think of landing. Every one of the crew thought
it particularly lonely and deserted, without the slightest
appearance of fertility. As they went northward it
became higher, and evidently composed of red table
land of sandstone, with the eternal ridge of white sand
fronting it like a rampart. In several places they landed,
and used to make excursions inshore about four or five

EARLY VOYAGES. 27
miles. It was all a red sand, dense thicket, full of
" briers and thorns." One of the men said he saw a red
serpent, another a yellow kind of dog ; some remarked
the traces of a bird like a cassiowary. Yery few natives
were seen, and these were in the scrub, near Hutt
River, where the Dutch found a native well, at a time
when they were regularly entangled in the thicket, suf
fering extremely from thirst. They spent some time
also in examining Sharks' Bay and the country around,
but they did not go to the farthest end of it. They
landed here, too, many times on the high rocky sandstone
shore — but they found no water.
It was during their visit here that they found the
memorial of Dirk Hartog's visit, and left the memorial
of their own, which was subsequently found by Baudin.
After leaving Sharks' Bay they did not land again upon
the coast. In fact, they only approached it once or
twice, and finding that the holding was bad, and likely
to cause a loss of anchors, they agreed to proceed to
Batavia. " On the morning of the 21st, says the jour
nalist, " in lat. 21°, we held once more a council ; half-an-
hour after sunrise our captain came from on board De
Ylamingh's vessel, from which five cannon-shot were
fired, and three from our vessel, as signal of farewell
to the miserable south land." *
The observations of the Dutch in this voyage are
singularly accurate. The scrub, the sands, the snakes,
native dogs even, are all according to fact, and unfor
tunately just like what they would meet in the same
locality at the present day. We learn from their report
that they considered that they had discovered nothing
but a bare and desolate region ; at least along the coast,
and as far as they had penetrated into the interior. A
box containing shells, fruits, plants, &c, was sent to
Holland by the company, as having been collected on
this expedition, but they were considered of no com
mercial value ; even including the sandal-wood found
upon the west coast. Probably, the coast was not quite
so bad as they considered it. We must remember that
* From MS. documents at the Hague, containing particulars relating to the
voyage of Willem de Vlamingh. 1696. Major, ut sup.

28 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
they were comparing it with those gardens of tropical
luxuriance which they had in the Indian archipelago.
The river spoken of in this expedition has now _ upon
its banks the city of Perth, which forms the capital of
the penal settlement of Western Australia.
The next voyage of importance was that of our
countryman, William Dampier, in his last visit in
company with a crew of buccaneers, as they were by
courtesy called, but answering in all respects to our
modern notion of pirates. After being threatened as
he was on the coast of New Holland, Dampier became
very anxious to leave the ship. This he succeeded in
doing at one of the Nicobar islands, from which he
reached Sumatra in a canoe. His adventures thence
forth would fill volumes, but he wound up by buying a
painted prince as a slave, and bringing him home to
London to show a la Barnum. He first disposed of
half the proceeds of his " exhibition," and then the
whole of it ; and we can easily understand that his
habits on shore were like those of most sailors, not of
the most prudent description. He then commenced
applications to the Earl of Pembroke, then Lord High
Admiral, for permission and means to prosecute his
discoveries in New Holland. His request was soon
attended to. He was provided with a vessel for the
purpose, carrying twelve guns, fifty men, and twenty
months' provision; and on the 14th January, 1699, he
set sail .*
On the 1st August he first saw land on the west coast
of Australia, but it was not until the 6th that he came
to an anchor. This was in Dirk Hartog Bay, recently
visited by Ylamingh, but Dampier called it Sharks' Bay,
because of the immense number of sharks he saw there.
The crew landed in search of water, but could not
obtain any, nor indeed anything they required, except
wood. Dampier, in his journal, enters into a lengthened
description of the trees, birds, and reptiles which he col
lected, and he seems to have been very fond of natural
history, and, withal, a truthful observer. Some of
* " Dampier's Voyage to New Holland in the year 1699," vol. iii., 3rd edit,
1729, pp. 75-107, nt n-f. Major, p. 135.

EARLY VOYAGES. 29
the species are engraved in one account of his voyage,*
amongst which appears the beautiful Clianthus,
known to the colonists as Sturt's Desert Pea. Dampier
mentions, with rather amusing simplicity, that he found
the head of a hippopotamus in the stomach of a shark.
"The hairy lips," he says, "were still sound, and
the jaw was also firm. Out of this we plucked a
good many teeth, two of which were eight inches long,
and the rest as big as a man's thumb, small at one end
and a little crooked." This must have been an animal
of the seal tribe. The land, he says, seen from the ship,
was of indifferent height, appearing very even at a
distance, but as you came nearer, with many gentle
risings, neither steep nor high. Near the shore the
soil was white sand, but further inland it became red,
producing grass in great tufts, with heath and shrubs,
the latter about ten feet high, and covered with leaves
at the top only. This is the true character of scrub, and
what Dampier describes here would suit any scrubs
throughout the west and south part of the continent.
Having surveyed a portion of Sharks' Bay, and
ascertained that Dorre and Barrier Islands were
separated from the land, he sailed in a north-easterly
direction. He mentions having seen three great water
snakes, of a yellow colour, spotted with dark brown
spots, swimming about in the sea.
They were about four feet long, and as thick as a
man's wrist, and were the first that Dampier had seen,
though he remarks that the coast seemed afterwards to
abound with them. This observation has been confirmed
by all succeeding explorers. Some of the water snakes
grow to an immense size, as, for instance, the Hydrus
Stokesii, (Gray), which is as thick as a man's thigh, and
the giant of the tribe.
Dampier kept coasting along until the 30th, without
finding any landing-place. He described and visited
the archipelago of islands in lat. 22°, long. 116°, and
hence it now bears his name. These islands stretched
* Woodward, in "Dampier's Voyages," vol. iii. p. ill, cap. 4, f. 2. The
plant is there called Colutea Novas Hollandiae. Its name now is Clianthus
Dampieri. R. Brown proposed the name of Eremocharis, from the Greek
eprjfios, (

30 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
out so far, that he doubted whether there was any con
tinent of Australia at all. At any rate, he said, he was
sure that the land was not joined to New Guinea. The
islands were pretty high, but all appeared dry and
mostly rocky, barren, and of a rusty yellow colour.
He landed on one, and had an encounter^ with the
natives, which is so feelingly described by him, that I
think it best to give his own version of the story.
" The 31st August, betimes in the morning, I went
ashore with ten or eleven men to search for water. We
went armed with muskets and cutlasses for our defence,
expecting to see people there ; and carried also shovels
and pickaxes to dig wells. When we came near the
shore we saw three tall, black, naked men on the sandy
bay ahead of us ; but as we rowed in they went away.
When we were landed, I sent the boat with two men
in her to lie a little from the shore, at an anchor, to
prevent being seized, while the rest of us went after
the three black men, who were now got on the top of a
small hill, about a quarter of a mile from us, with eight
or nine men more in their company. They, seeing us
coming, ran away. When we came on the top of the
hill where they first stood, we saw a plain savannah,
about half a mile from us, further in from the sea.
There were several things like haycocks standing in
the savannah, which, at a distance, we thought were
houses, looking just like the Hottentots' houses at the
Cape of Good Hope : but we found them to be so many
rocks. We searched about these for water, but could find
none, nor any houses, nor people, where we landed ;
and there we dug for water. While we were at work,
there came nine or ten natives to a small hill a little
way from us, and stood there menacing and threatening
of us, and making a great noise. At last one of them
came towards us, and the rest followed at a distance.
I went to meet him, and came within fifty yards of
him, making to him all the signs of peace and friendship
I could ; but then he ran away, neither would they any
of them stay for us to come nigh them, for we tried two
or three times. At last I took two men with me, and
went in the afternoon along the sea-side purposely to

EARLY VOYAGES. 31
catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn
where they got their fresh water. There were ten or
twelve of the natives a little way off, who seeing us
three going away from the rest of our men, followed us
at a distance. I thought they would follow us ; but
there being for a while a sandbank between us and
them, that they could not then see us, we made a halt,
and hid ourselves in a bending of the sandbank. They
knew we must be thereabouts, and being three or four
times our number, thought to seize us, so they dispersed
themselves, some going to the sea-shore, and others beat
ing about the sand-hills. We knew, by what recounter
we had with them in the morning, that we could easily
outrun them ; so a nimble young man that was with
me, seeing some of them near, ran towards them, and
they for some time ran away before him. But he soon
overtaking them, they faced about and fought him. He
had a cutlass and they had wooden lances, with which,
being many of them, they were too hard for him.
When he first ran towards them, I chased two more that
were by the shore ; but fearing how it might be with
my young man, I turned back quickly and went up to
the top of a sand-hill, whence I saw him near me closely
engaged with them. Upon their seeing me, one of
them threw a lance at me, that narrowly miss'd
me. I discharged my gun to scare them, but avoiding
shooting any of them ; till finding the young man in
great danger from them, and myself in some, and that,
though the gun had a little frighted them at first,
yet they had soon learnt to despise it, tossing up their
heads and crying, ' Pooh, pooh, pooh !' and coming on
afresh with a great noise, I thought it high time to
charge again, and shoot one of them, which I did. The
rest, seeing him fall, made a stand again, and my young
man took the opportunity to disengage himself, and
came off to me ; my other man also was with me, who
had done nothing all this while, having come out un
armed ; and I returned back with my men, designing
to attempt the natives no farther, being very sorry for
what had happened already. They took up their
wounded companion ; and my young man, who had been

32 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
struck through the cheek by one of their lances, was
afraid it had been poisoned, but I did not think that
likely. His wound was very painful to him, being
made with a blunt weapon, but he soon recovered of it.
" The land hereabouts was much like the part of New
Holland that I formerly described (vol. i.' p. 463) ; 'tis
low, but seemingly barricaded with a long chain of sand
hills to the sea, that lets nothing be seen of what is
further within land. At high water, the tides rising so
high as they do, the coast shows very low ; but when
'tis low water it seems to be of an indifferent height.
At low-water mark the shore is all rocky, so that then
there is no landing with a boat ; but at high water a boat
may come in over those rocks to the sandy bay, which
runs along all on this coast. The land by the sea for
about five or six hundred yards is a dry, sandy soil,
bearing only shrubs and bushes of divers sorts. Some
of these had then at this time of the year, yellow
flowers or blossoms, some blue and some white, most of
them of a very fragrant smell. Some of them had
fruit-like peascods, in each of which there were just ten
small peas : I opened many of them, and found no more
nor less. There are also here some of that sort of bean
which I saw at Rosemary Island, and another sort of
small, red, hard pulse, growing in cods also, with little
black eyes like beans. I know not their names, but
have seen them used often in the East Indies for
weighing gold ; and they make the same use of them at
Guinea, as I have heard, where the women also make
bracelets with them to wear about their arms. These
grow on bushes ; but here are also fruit-like beans,
growing on a creeping sort of shrub-like vine. There
was great plenty of all these sorts of cod fruit growing
on the sand-hills by the seaside, some of them green,
some ripe, and some fallen on the ground ; but I could
not perceive that any of them had been gathered by the
natives, and might not probably be wholesome food.
" The land further in, that is lower than what borders
on the sea, was, so much as we saw of it, very plain and
even, partly savannahs and partly woodlands. The sa
vannahs bear a sort of thin coarse grass. The mould is

EARLY VOYAGES. 33
also a coarser sand than that by the seaside, and in some
places 'tis clay. Here are a great many rocks in the
large savannah we were in, which are five or six foot
high, and round at the top like a haycock, very re
markable, some red and white. The woodland lies
farther in still, where there were divers sorts of small
trees, scarce any three foot in circumference ; their
bodies twelve or fourteen feet high, with a bead of
small knibs or boughs. These were the only dis
coveries of our countryman, and he left the coast early
in September." Thus far Dampier. The next expedition of which
we have any particulars is that of three Dutch vessels
which sailed from Batavia, in 1705, to examine the
shores of New Holland. In April of that year, they
explored the north-west coast, which at that time
was called Yan Diemen's Land. They were occupied
until the 12th of July, exploring and naming the
various points on the coast. They found two deep in
dentations in the land, which they considered straits,
and then came to the remarkable conclusion, that the
great south land was only a chain of islands. They had
several communications with the natives. With the ex
ception of a vessel named the Zeewyk, which was
wrecked upon the Houtman's Abrolhos in June, 1727,
no other ship visited this coast, or rather no record of
any such visit exists, until we come to the time of Cap
tain Cook. The Zeewyk was wrecked on an island,
named Gun Island by Captain Stokes, in lat. 28° 53'
10"; long. 113° 50', or 1° 53' 35" west of Swan River.
The crew were enabled to build a sloop from the frag
ments of the wreck, and thus reached Batavia in safety.
Captain Stokes, in 1839, found a gun upon this island,
besides many relics dated about the period of the ship's
loss. At the same time, a part of Captain Pelsart's vessel,
the Batavia, was found, with a coin dated 1620, and
several fragments of iron so corroded as to be quite un
recognisable. The particulars will be stated further on*
* It should be borne in mind, with reference to the latitudes and longitudes
given in this work, that all the latitudes are south of the equator, and all the
longitudes east of the meridian of Greenwich.
VOL. I. D

34 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.

CHAPTER II.
COOK'S VOYAGES.
Cook's discoveries in 1770 — Point Hicks— Cook's observations on the east
coast — Botany Bay — Encounter with the natives— -Port Jackson— Broken
Bay — Moreton Bay — Bustard Bay — Bay of Islets — Rockingham Bay —
Cape Tribulation — Shipwreck of Cook — Endeavour River — The first kan
garoo — Repair of the ship — Passage of the Barrier Reef — Weymouth Bay
— Torres Straits.
For seventy years, the coasts of Australia now remained
undisturbed. The desolation of the north and west
coast had destroyed all interest in the great south land,
as far as the Dutch were concerned ; and the east side
remained a mysterious secret. In those seventy years,
very important changes had taken place in the world's
civilization, and those changes very much affected navi
gation. The Dutch were no longer sole masters of the
east. The Spaniards and Portuguese had sluggishly let
their possessions fall into decay, and then, little by little,
abandoned them. Their place was not, however, vacant :
even then, two Powers, the French and English, were
striving for the mastery in those seas. In the meantime,
ships were being altered and improved ; their size was
growing larger and their crews were growing smaller,
rendering long voyages cheaper, more easy, and less de
structive of health. An amazing activity had taken
place in all departments of scientific discovery : voyages
for the sole purposes of science were now not uncom
mon, and the names of Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and
Bourgainville, testify to the zeal displayed at this
time. This was the century in which Australia was
to wake up: after slumbering so long, it was now to
arise like a giant prepared to run his course : the sleep
ing beauty was to have the spell broken and receive her
crown.

COOK'S VOYAGES. 35
It should be remarked, first, that with all that had
been done, the great northern continent still remained
a mystery. The Portuguese discoveries had fallen into
oblivion. The efforts of the Dutch had been desultory
and irregular, and resulted, as we have seen, in leaving
the real nature of the continent more doubtful than ever.
It is singular that no previous efforts should have been
made to explore the eastern side of Australia. The
Portuguese must have seen and known its value was dif
ferent from the west side, whose arid shores and deso
late interior served to destroy all interest in its further
exploration : yet the eastern side remained unknown.
Dampier wished to visit it, and was only deterred from
making that the first object of his voyage by the un-
favourableness of the season for passing the Straits of
Magellan. That the Dutch should have explored the
west side only is easily understood : that was the only
part with which they were brought into contact in their
voyages to Batavia, and their interest did not lead them
elsewhere ; but England and France had need of such
discoveries, and it is certainly wonderful that they were
allowed to escape so long.
In 1767, the Royal Society resolved to send to the
South Sea an expedition, to observe the transit of Yenus.
They contemplated nothing more at the time ; but owing
to the connection between great events and little causes,
this transit of Yenus was the means of placing Aus
tralia in the possession of Great Britain. The Royal
Society, it should be observed, were not in a position to
undertake the enterprise, and they therefore petitioned
the king for funds to carry it out. The petition was im
mediately complied with. At first, it was suggested that
Alexander Dalrymple should have the command of the
ship ; but the selection was afterwards made of James
Cook, who was then distinguished in the navy for his
scientific acquirements.
Cook showed his judgment first in the choice of a
vessel for the expedition. At a time when most naval
men were of opinion that exploration could only be
properly conducted in an East Indiaman or a three-
decker. Cook chose a bark of 370 tons burden; she
n 2

36 DISCOVERT AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was called the Endeavour, and fitted with eighteen
months' provisions and twenty-two guns. She was
manned by a crew of eighty-five persons, amongst
whom were Mr. Joseph Banks and Dr. Solander.
Cook sailed in July, 1768. With the first part of
his voyage, this work has nothing to do ; it will be
sufficient to say, that the astronomical observations
were made, and then the time was taken up in exploring
until April, 1770. At that date, they set sail from New
Zealand on a north-west course, and thus came upon the
south-east coast of Australia.
The first land that was seen was in lat. 38° ; long.
148° 53'. It was discovered by Lieut. Hicks, who was
the first Englishman to see this part of Australia. The
point he descried was named after him, but it is seldom
to be found on any maps ; and yet, poor fellow ! he de
serves some little recognition for his services in Australia,
as they cost him his life. He died of consumption before
he reached home.
To the southward of Point Hicks, no land was to be
seen, though Yan Diemen's Land ought to have borne
due south ; but Cook suspected its existence there, for he
says that the sea fell suddenly after the wind, as though
there were land near. His course from the Point was
east-north-east, and thus continued along the land. This
was the coast of that part of Yictoria known as Gipp's
Land. It is an area of vast extent and surprising
fertility ; but its coastline is low and sandy, much in
dented with large salt water inlets, shallow rivers and
lagoons. From the shore the land rises rapidly towards
the Australian Alps, which are dimly visible from the
sea, and long before they are reached the soil becomes
richly grassed and extremely fertile. There are many
townships now upon these delightful slopes, and several
rich gold-fields occur near them ; but at the time Cook
passed, it was inhabited by one of the most intractable
and treacherous tribes of savages with which the white
man has ever had to deal in Australia.
But Cook, of course, saw only low and level land,
part of which rose moderately high, the sea-shore flat
and covered with white sand, but the country within

COOK'S VOYAGES. 37
green and woody. As they advanced, the view became
more pleasing. The country was undulating and
lightly wooded, showing, in the spots which became
visible from time to time, that the grass was green and
luxuriant. It was remarked that the hills only rose
very gently, but still high, and the timber upon them
seemed excellent. No harbour was, however, seen
along the whole course ; and this fact, unfortunately,
has not been contradicted by more recent explorations,
except in the case of one or two insignificant bays.
The first indentation of the land noticed by Cook was
Bateman's Bay. Behind this, and for several leagues
on each side, the country was very mountainous.
Sometimes the ship approached so close to the land,
that the natives were seen watching them intently ;
but the coast was too open to attempt a landing. As
they went northward, a strong current was found set
ting to the southward, and this, combined with the
heavy rolling sea towards the west, made Cook imagine
that Yan Diemen's Land would be found separated
from Australia.
They sailed along the coast for several days,
anxiously looking out for a place upon which they
could land. As each succeeding mountain rose upon
their view, the ingenuity of the crew was taxed to
compare it to something. Thus, as the ship glided
onward, unfolding the new shore to their absorbed
gaze, Mount Dromedary, Mount Pigeonhouse, Long
Nose, and Red Point received their names. The
mountains became thicker and higher, more gloomy
and grand. The coast became more rocky, bold, and
precipitous. Let us picture to ourselves the scene.
There is Cook upon the quarter-deck, resting his glass
upon the cabin lights, and communicating his observa
tions to the officers who stand round. Dr. Solander
is straining his eyes to see a native, and Mr. Banks is
wondering what a world of botanic discovery lies in
that dense thick foliage. The man at the wheel
glances aside from the binnacle now and then, as the
exclamations of the officers indicate something new.
The crew lean listlessly over the side, and wonder what

38 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
sort of a place that dark-looking shore can be. Mean
while, the panorama before them differs from the aspect
of most of the countries they have seen. There is first
the surf, which comes from long, booming waves strik
ing upon the black cliffs, and casting a shower of white
foam into the air. Then there is the foreground of the
coast, precipitous and rocky, but a green patch here
and there between the valleys, showing that it is fertile
too. Then commences the forest, rising like a sloping,
rolling sea of dark, very dark, almost black, foliage.
Above them are the mountains, of a rich ultramarine
blue colour — blue, that is to say, with a tint of beauty
which only those who have travelled in Australia can
believe possible. Last of all, in the far distance, there
are mountains more remote ; but these are of an ash-
grey hue. These things must have charmed and
amazed Cook, for he could not have seen them else
where. Owing, probably, to the dryness of the atmo
sphere, no country possesses such a variety of colour in
its landscapes. No mountains are so blue as the
Australian mountains ; but then one must not expect
green trees. At a distance these appear of a positively
black or dull brown colour.
In lat. 34° 39', long. 151° 15', Red Point was
named, and near it were some remarkable white cliffs,
which rose perpendicularly from the sea to a consider
able height. Four natives were seen here carrying a
canoe upon their shoulders, and following the ship
along the beach. Cook concluded that they were
coming off to the vessel ; but this they seemed afraid
to do. Placing, therefore, in the yawl as many men as
it would carry, he pulled off towards them at a place
where there were four canoes lying near the water's
edge. The natives sat down upon the rocks, and
seemed to wait their landing; but when within a
quarter of a mile they ran away into the wood. There
was too^ much surf to think of landing anywhere, and
after a little delay the yawl returned to the ship.
Next day an eligible harbour was found, to the
great delight of all the crew. While the master was
sounding the entrance, the ship lay off and observed

COOK'S VOYAGES. 39
some natives, who were upon the shore, watching
them. As the vessel neared, they retired to the top of
a little eminence. Soon after, the pinnace, which was
employed in sounding, came close to them, and the
natives did all they could to induce the master to land.
But they were all armed this time with " long pikes
and wooden scimitars" (boomerangs), as the master
said, and therefore he returned to the ship. The
natives, who had not followed the boat, seeing the ship
approach, used many threatening gestures, and bran
dished their weapons. They were all painted for
battle, as the custom is amongst them. The paint
generally consists of white pipeclay smeared all over
the face, and along the arms, across the ribs, and, in
fact, in every sort of pattern, according to taste,
making them look exactly like skeletons. The weapon
like a scimitar, which was evidently a boomerang, they
brandished the most of all, and they seemed, says
Cook, to talk to each other with great earnestness.
Well they might. I think if Cook and his boat's crew
were to land in Sydney now, dressed as they then
were, the people would come out to see them, and talk
a great deal about them.
Notwithstanding all this, the Endeavour continued
to sail up the bay, and, early in the afternoon, anchored
under the south shore, about two miles within the
entrance. As they came in they saw on either side of
the bay a few huts of the usual wretched character of
the Australian dwelling, and several natives sitting near
them. Under the south head they saw four small
canoes, with one man in each. They were striking
fish with a long spear. They ventured very near the
surf in their fragile barks, and were so engaged in
their employment that they did not see the ship go by
them, though it passed within a quarter of a mile.
Opposite to where they anchored the ship, there were
seven or eight huts. While they were hauling out the
boat, an old woman and three children were seen to
come out of the forest with firewood. Several children
in the huts came out to meet her at the same time.
She looked very attentively at the ship, but did not

40 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
seem very anxious about it. She then kindled a fire ;
whereupon the four fishermen rowed on to the land,
hauled up their boats, and commenced to dress the fish
for their meal. They none of them seemed the least
anxious about the ship. It did not excite their
astonishment in the least. This apathy, it may be
remarked, is one of the most distinctive features in the
character of the Australian savage.
Preparations having been completed on board the
Endeavour, the crew prepared to land. They proposed
doing so where the huts were, and hoped that as
they cared so little about the ship, the natives would
remain and communicate with them. In this they
were disappointed. As soon as the boat approached
the rocks, two of the men came down to dispute the
landing, and the rest ran away. Each of the two
champions were armed with a lance about ten feet
long, and a woomra, or throwing-stick. They bran
dished their weapons in a very daring way, though
they were only two to forty, and called continually in
a strange, harsh language what was evidently a warn
ing to the explorers not to land. Cook, admiring their
courage, ordered his men to lie upon the oars while he
tried to pacify them. He threw them beads and orna
ments, which they seized eagerly, and seemed well
pleased with them. But all inducement to allow the
boat's crew to land were thrown away. They tried to
intimate to them that nothing but water was wanted ;
but it was no use ; they seemed resolved to defend
their country from invasion. One was a mere lad, and
the other about middle age ; and yet there they stood
before their huts, confronting forty men, rather than
yield their ground. A musket was fired between them.
At the report, one dropped his bundle of spears, but
recollected himself in a moment, and stood again on
the defensive. A charge of small shot was now fired
at the legs of the elder. Upon this he retreated to the
huts, and Cook and his men immediately landed. But
the battle was not over. Scarcely had they set their
feet upon the sand when the savage returned. He was
armed with a shield this time, hoping thus to protect

COOK'S VOYAGES. 41
his now bleeding legs. Both savages threw spears
where the men stood thickest, but they easily avoided
them. Another charge of small shot was given. This
completed the victory. Native legs could stand it no
longer, so they were immediately put to another use.
They would have been pursued, and the retreat turned
to a rout, but Mr. Banks suggested that their spears
might be poisoned. Thus ended the Battle of Botany
Bay. Perhaps Caesar's victories over the British
savages were not much more glorious
After the retreat of the blacks, Cook went to the
huts, and found three or four children huddled together,
and evidently in the greatest state of fear. This was
the cause of the heroic resistance of the two natives.
It was the natural instinct for the defence of- the off
spring that animated them, as it would animate a robin
under similar circumstances. Having left some pre
sents at the hut, Cook proceeded to examine their
spears and canoes. The former were found to be for
midable enough, and smeared with a green substance,
which the explorers thought was poison. This was
merely the seaweed adhering to the point after
having been used in fishing. The canoes were of the
most wretched description possible. They were twelve
or fourteen feet long, and made of the bark of a tree in
one piece. The ends were drawn together and tied,
and the middle part was kept asunder by sticks placed
across. From this place Cook returned on board, and then
went over to the north side of the bay, where he found
water. The natives had entirely disappeared. The
huts were examined next day. The children had been
taken away, but the blacks had carefully avoided
touching the beads and ribbons left for them. While
the men were filling the casks with water, Cook went
sounding in the pinnace. At various parts of the bay
he saw the natives again, but they all fled when he
approached them. While the crew were at dinner,
too, they examined the casks very minutely, but did
not attempt to remove them. Once only did they
renew any measures of attack. About eighteen of

42 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
them came forward, armed to the teeth, and stood
about a hundred yards from Lieutenant Hicks, who
commanded the water-party. He made every effort he
could think of to assure them of his pacific intentions,
and to get them to approach nearer, but they retired
immediately. Captain Cook, with Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks,
made an excursion on shore while the crew were
watering the ship. They went first to the huts, and
found the presents still unremoved, though the natives
continued to visit the spot every day. Others were
left of greater value, and the party then proceeded
further inland. The first thing they remarked was the
beautiful plumage of the parrots and cockatoos, which
flew in clouds over their heads. Next they noticed
some wood evidently cut by the stone hatchets of the
natives, and some trees which had been stripped of
their bark to make canoes and shields. They saw a
great sameness in the nature of the trees. They saw
also the divisions cut like steps for climbing them ; but
their distances did not agree with those of Tasman, the
space between them being only three feet instead of
five. The usual red gum was observed oozing out
from the bark, and this attracted their notice, as it did
that of every explorer who had landed upon the conti
nent. This gum is a species of kino, and possesses
powerful astringent, and probably staining, qualities.
No natives were seen upon this journey ; but on the
return of the party to the watering they found that it
was not always so safe to go far from the party. The
second-lieutenant, Mr. Gore, and a midshipman, had
gone some distance in shore, and they were soon
followed by a body of twenty-two natives, who tried to
surround them. The savages were armed and coming
very close, and though Mr. Gore was quite defenceless.
he managed, by facing them boldly from time to time,
to return in safety to his party. The natives then
stood watching their movements at a distance of about
a quarter of a mile. One or two of the sailors, em
boldened by their quiet demeanour, walked towards
them ; but their hearts failing them as they came near,

COOK'S VOYAGES. 43
they turned and fled. This immediately gave rise to a
pursuit from the natives, who discharged their spears,
fortunately without effect. Just at this time Captain
Cook and his party came up, and went towards them
to show that they were not afraid. The savages re
treated at once, and no entreaty or persuasion could
induce them to communicate.
The next time that Cook made an excursion inland
he met some few natives, but they all fled now with
the greatest precipitation, and from this Cook con
cluded that they had become acquainted with the
destructive nature of firearms from the report of the
savage who had been peppered with small shot, and
from seeing the birds drop down as they were fired, at.
While these observations were being made, the
naturalists of the expedition were collecting an im
mense number of new specimens in natural history.
Mr. Banks saw great quantities of quail very like the
English quail. Mr. Gore was able to spear many rays
in shallow water, some of which weighed over two
hundred pounds. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were
most successful, however, in collecting plants. Every
thing they saw was new, and, what was more fortunate,
a great many of the species were still in flower. The
trees were Acacias and Eucalypti, the latter with the
surface of the leaves not at right angles to the branch,
but placed edgeways towards it. There were beautiful
plants like heaths and fuschias, immortelles and blue
bells ; there were new grasses, new rushes, new mosses,
and new fruits, all rivalling the charm of their novelty
by their rich and gorgeous hues. This was why the
bay was called Botany Bay, and this is also why the
place was considered such a paradise by Captain Cook
and the naturalists. They left it with regret, we may
be sure, little knowing how soon those solitudes were to
be awakened once more, never to rest again. It was
not, however, until the 6th May that the ship's name
and the date were inscribed upon a tree, and the
Endeavour sailed away.
A few hours after sailing they were abreast of
high, steep walls of sandstone rock, which, lifted them-

44 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
selves proudly against the waves that dashed against
them, and shut out the view of all the interior except
the Blue Mountains. High over all they were still
visible, with the dense foliage as usual, but here and
there a red or grey rock starting out like a beacon.
The high cliffs continued unbroken for some time, but
suddenly terminated in an abrupt precipice, and left a
gorge between them and the next succeeding rocky
heights. This was an opening to which the look-out
man, named Jackson, called attention. The port, in
consequence, received his name. This was the first
discovery of the famous Sydney Harbour. That even
ing the vessel was off Broken Bay, so called from the
irregularity of its opening. The country became much
higher and mountainous in the interior, while the fore
ground was a little lower, and covered occasionally
with white sand. Thus they passed Port Stevens and
all the headlands which intervene. A little above the
latter place some natives, to the number of twelve,
were seen walking along the shore. They did not
take any notice of the ship, nor manifest the slightest
curiosity by even a casual glance at her as she sailed
along. Now succeeded the low country which forms the
deltas of the rivers flowing down from the Blue Moun
tains or Dividing Range. The land in front was in
places a rocky shore of pink granite, overlaid by patches
of rock of the trap formation. This rock often rises
to ranges of great height, between which the M'Leay,
Bellengen, Nambucca, and other streams flow. But
Captain Cook saw very little of all this. A part of it
was passed in the night, and the rest was too far off
the ship to be examined particularly. The next fea
ture, therefore, which we find him describing is More-
ton Bay and the adjacent Cape Moreton, some hills
near which he called by the distinctive title of Glass
houses, because of their fancied resemblance to horti
cultural frames. Immediately to the northward of
these the country assumes a volcanic character, and the
coast becomes more barren. The only soil visible from
the deck of the Endeavour seemed arid and sandy.

COOK'S VOYAGES. 45
The sands, too, seemed shifting like the dunes upon
the south coast, and in their course sweeping over trees
whose tops were seen peeping above the hillocks, either
covered with green leaves or raising aloft dry and
withered branches. In other places the woods appeared
to be low and shrubby, with no traces of inhabitants
among them. Two water snakes here swam by the
ship, differing in no respect from land snakes, except
that their tails were flattened for swimming purposes.
The, ship passed a point of land with many natives
upon it, which was called, in consequence, Indian
Head ; and some sandy patches on the next promontory
earned it the name of Sandy Point. Both these were
upon an island, Great Sandy Island, but of this Cook
was not aware at the time, so that when he passed the
north end of it he considered the strait an inlet, and
called it Harvey's Bay. The country was altering
much as they proceeded northward, and becoming
more tropical in its vegetation. The trees were not so
thickly spread over the ground, and among the prin
cipal of them were palm-trees. A little below Port
Curtis, in a bay named Bustard Bay, the ship was
anchored, and the crew landed. On the south side of
the bay they found a channel leading into a large
lagoon, in which ships, it was thought, might ride in
security. Nothing further was seen in any way worthy
of notice, and indeed the aspect of the country around
was beginning to give them a very poor opinion of the
great south land. They found several bays and
marshes of salt water, with a fine growth of mangroves
upon them, somewhat similar to the same tree in the
salt marshes of the West Indies. Two insect curiosities
were seen upon these trees, which the explorers found
more interesting than agreeable. There were immense
numbers of green ants nesting in the branches, which
gave a most durable and painful sting when they were
disturbed, and caterpillars of the same colour, covered
with hairs, which produced a sting like that of the
nettle. The soil was very dry and sandy outside the
marshes, and supporting no underwood.
Next day the Endeavour entered the tropics, and

46 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
passed in succession the capes and promontories be
tween Bustard Bay and Thirsty Sound, which lies in
lat 22° 10'. There was no water to be found _ in the
latter, and hence the name. Cook landed^ twice, the
second occasion being to observe the bearing of the
hills round ; but the compass was so much affected by
the rocks near, that he could obtain no accurate
observations. There was no inducement to remain in the sound,
and Cook accordingly set sail again. Islands now
began to make their appearance, and the mainland
improved in character. The land, both upon the main
and. upon the islands, was high, and diversified by hill
and valley, wood and lawn, with a green and pleasant
aspect. On one of the islands they saw two men and a
woman, with a canoe which seemed much larger and of
better construction than they had observed in Botany
Bay. A passage between Cumberland Islands and the
main was discovered and passed through on Whit
sunday, and hence was called Whitsunday Passage.
It would be endless, however, to describe all the points,
bays, and capes which Cook named, because, in the
first instance, he does no more than name them, and
because a glance at the map will show them as well - as
they could be shown here. A little beyond Magnetical
Isle smoke was seen. It was believed that the natives
here were more advanced in civilization, and therefore
refreshments could be procured from them. Accord
ingly, Lieutenant Hicks with Dr. Solander and Mr.
Banks were sent ashore, with directions, if they failed
in reaching the natives, to procure some cocoa-nuts
from the palm-trees on the beach. In the evening
they returned, and reported that what they had taken
for cocoa-nut trees were only cabbage-palms, and that,
with the exception of fourteen or fifteen plants, there
was nothing worth bringing away.
Cook did not land again until he had passed Trinity
Bay, and then it was under circumstances that were
most unfortunate for him. Thus far he had passed
along the shore without any untoward accident ; and
this was all the more singular, as the coast is particu-

COOK'S VOYAGES. 47
larly dangerous, and the Endeavour had lain pretty
close to it. Just beyond the bay just mentioned, in
about lat. 16°, a good many islands became visible, to
avoid which the vessel stood out to sea in the evening,
intending to lie on that course all night. Cook hoped
by this means to stand a chance of seeing some of those
islands which Quiros had discovered. It was a beauti
ful calm evening, with just enough wind to take the
ship leisurely along. There was plenty of moonlight,
and its light enabled the crew to see a coral reef, close
to the edge of which they proceeded cautiously. Sud
denly the water shoaled to twelve, ten, and eight
fathoms within the space of a few minutes. Cook
immediately ordered every man to his station, and was
ready to come to an anchor ; but having at the next
cast of the lead twenty-one fathoms, he concluded that
he had passed the last of the shoals. The depth con
tinuing, they left the deck, one by one, in great tran
quillity, and nought disturbed the watch for some time
longer. The night was clear and very calm, so that
there seemed little danger in allowing the ship to keep
her course. It would have been better, however, to
have anchored. At ten at night the water shoaled
again, and before the next cast of the lead could be
taken, the ship struck. It may seem strange to some
that no breakers were seen nor heard ; but the fact is,
they were inside the Barrier Reef, fringing the north
west coast of Australia, and of the existence of this
Captain Cook was not aware.
The consternation and distress of the crew at this
unfortunate termination to their voyage may be easily
imagined. There could be no doubt that the ship had
struck upon a very rough rock, and must be much
injured, for every heaving of the waves let her down
more heavily and firmly. The scene on board would
have been one of utter confusion but for the firmness of
Cook. Though as much dismayed as any one, and
knowing well that if the ship were wrecked upon that
coast their lives would be forfeited to a certainty, he still
kept a calm demeanour. He ordered the sails to be
taken in, and the boats to be lowered, to sound in the

48 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
neighbourhood. The danger was really very great. It
was found that the vessel had been lifted over a ledge
of rock, and lay in a hollow within it, having in some
places but a few feet of water near her, and in others
three or four fathoms. The bumping caused by the
swell was doing immense mischief. At first, little pieces
of wood came floating up to the surface ; then planks
from the sheathing, and finally the false keel lay along
side, plainly telling the crew that there was only now
a plank or two between them and eternity. There was
no time to be lost. Everything which could be spared
— guns, fresh water, refuse stores — all went overboard,
in their efforts to lighten the ship. The first tide did
not, however, float her, even with the assistance of pur
chase anchors. In the meantime the leak gained ground.
The water was rushing in fearfully, and there was every
probability that if the vessel were afloat she would soon
fill and sink. Just as they were almost despairing they
tried the expedient of a sail fastened under the ship's
bottom, covered with wool and oakum. It succeeded
perfectly, and by the night tide the vessel was afloat
again. They now stood for the land. It became absolutely
necessary to examine the leak, and this could only be
done by hauling the ship down in some convenient
cove or harbour. This they found close within some
islands near, which Cook, for obvious reasons, had
named Hope Islands. The harbour was a most con
venient one, and they soon ran out their anchors, and
had the ship high and dry upon the beach. Then the
cause of their preservation became known. On examin
ing the bottom they found a large hole through the
planks into the hold, and this was filled up nearly by a
fragment of coral nearly half a yard square. If this
fragment, after making the hole, had not almost plugged
it up, the leak would have been sufficient to sink the
ship, if she had had eight pumps instead of four.
The scurvy began at this time to make sad work
among Cook's men, so that his first care was to build a
tent, to serve as a hospital for the sick. After this,
while the vessel was being repaired, some examination

COOK'S VOYAGES. 49
was made of the country around. This was the only
recorded visit to the north-east side of tropical Australia,
and therefore everything the explorers saw possessed
an extraordinary interest for them. First, the size of
the bats, or flying foxes, as the settlers now call them,
attracted the attention of all. Their size was so large,
and their appearance so hideous, that a sailor who
had found one ran back in great consternation, and
reported that he had seen the devil ! Next, the enor
mous size of the shell-fish upon the coral reefs filled
them with wonder, as well it might, for the dimensions of
the chama gigas in that locality are so great that two men
could scarcely manage to lift one. The kangaroo was
seen here too for the first time. The explorers were
very much puzzled to say what sort of an animal it
was, for it fairly beat their greyhound by jumping over
the long grass, exactly as a jerboa, would have done
under similar circumstances. At length one was
caught, examined, cooked, and found to be good
eating. Several excursions were made inland by Mr.
Banks and his party. For about nine miles the
country was nothing but mangrove swamps and
marshes, and then it became very much like what they
had seen before. The soil was very rich, and supported
a most dense and luxuriant growth of tussack grass,
which almost hid the men one from another as they
journeyed through it. They could see no natives at
first, though they came upon many of their camps,
which had been only recently deserted : the savages
seemed very anxious to avoid communication. But this
was not always the case : they soon came down to watch
the crew, and, finding no violence offered to them, came
nearer and nearer. At last, a few of them ventured to
approach the camp. They were fed and well treated.
This brought numbers of savages flocking round them,
until every day there was an exchange of civilities with
them, and presents were freely taken. This was all
very well for a time; but these savages got rather
troublesome. At first, they wanted presents which
could not conveniently be spared ; then they took to
VOL. i. K

50 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
stealing. One day, however, this unsatisfactory state
of things was brought to a close by an open rupture.
About twelve of them came on board, and asked for a
turtle which was lying on the deck. This was refused.
They repeated their demand in the most imperious
manner, and were again quietly refused. They attempted
to take it by force, but finding themselves overpowered,
they jumped over the ship's side, and paddled away to
shore in the greatest indignation. As soon as they
arrived at where the men were working, they set fire to
the grass, and before the explorers could interfere, the
long dry herbage burned so rapidly that a great many
things of value were destroyed. Such a gratuitous
piece of mischief deserved some punishment, and accord
ingly, while the natives were dancing and yelling over
the destruction in the greatest exultation, their thoughts
were suddenly diverted into another channel, and their
dancing much aided by some small shot fired at their
legs. Cook says, that had the fire happened a few
days sooner, it would have found their powder ashore,
and the consequences would have been most disastrous.
Certainly any one knowing anything of Australia, where
the grass will generally burn like tinder, would not have
put powder there.
In the meantime the ship was completed, and it
became an important question how to get her outside
the shoals upon which she had struck. The master was
sent to examine, and he reported that they were inside a
barrier reef, which did not seem to have any opening
for many miles either way. The only course now was
to proceed northward, and examine for a passage that
way in the ship, but keeping the boat ahead, sounding.
The mainland to the northward of their harbour was
observed to be low, and chequered with white sand and
green bushes, beyond which it seemed to rise consider
ably inland, rugged in outline and densely clothed with
trees. Near an island, named Eagle Island, it was
thought that an opening would be perceived. The
master went forward to examine it, and returned to the
ship with the news that she could get outside. The
passage was merely diseernable by a blank in the long

COOK'S VOYAGES. 51
line of surf which fringed the exterior of the reef; but
even in this blank there were some small breakers and
much foam. Still the ship steered boldly through the
passage, and as soon as she got outside the breakers into
the open ocean, no bottom could be found within 150
fathoms of line. There was a heavy sea rolling in a
long swell from the south-east, a certain sign that few
rocks or shoals were now to be found beyond.
This was a happy change for the crew. For three
months they had been entangled by these shoals, and
often obliged to anchor within hearing of the surf
which broke over them, knowing that if a tropical
squall came they must all inevitably perish. But
now, for the first time, they were enabled to proceed
without having a man in the chains heaving the lead.
Cook was delighted to be once more in the open sea,
and congratulated his officers on the subject ; but his
triumph was only very short : he had scarcely proceeded
two miles to the south-east when it fell calm, and the
long round swell began to take them back to the reef.
Evening came on, but they could not anchor. All night
long they were doomed to hear the awful roaring of the
surf sounding nearer and nearer, and when the day broke
they saw it foaming to a vast height, not more than a
mile distant. The distress of the crew may be imagined,
as they were utterly helpless. There was not a breath of
wind, and anchoring was out of the question. For a
long time they tried to tow the ship off with the boats,
and despair gave the men an energy which almost made
them able to contend with the current. At last, hope
dawned upon them : an opening was seen, and every
effort made to try to reach it ; but the ship obstinately
drifted by. Another was seen further On, and as they
had a chance of passing through this, the boat was sent
forward to examine it. Scarcely had it been signalled
as safe, when the ship was drawn towards it slowly by
the current. Nearer and nearer came the huge white
walls of surf, faster and faster flew the ship. The noise
grew awful, and with the speed of lightning the vessel
dashed through the narrow channel, with destruction
almost touching her at either side. The danger was
E 2

52 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
soon passed, and her speed was slackened in a quiet,
calm expanse of green water. Fancy the relief of the
crew as they heard the chain run out, and knew they
were at anchor in a few fathoms of water. The open
ing through which they came was called Providence
Channel — as well it might be ; a bay on the mainland
in front of them was called Weymouth Bay. It was in
sight of this bay and channel that, nearly eighty years
afterwards, the majority of poor Kennedy's party were
starved to death.
Cook now resolved not to leave the mainland until
he definitely ascertained whether or not Australia was
joined to New Guinea. He therefore continued close
along the coast. Forbes Island, and Cape Grenville,
Temple Bay, and the large clusters of islands round
Cape York were successively passed and named, and at
last he reached the extremity ofthe continent. That it
was not joined to New Guinea, Cook saw with delfghted
eyes, and thus he discovered the straits of Torres a
second time, after the first discovery had been allowed
to sleep in oblivion for nearly 170 years.
After standing N.N.E., between many shoals and
islands, they passed through a channel one of whose
sides seemed the most northerly promontory of the
mainland. This was named Cape York ; a few islands
near were called York Islands. The channel began to
widen, and the islands on each side were distant about a
mile. The mainland stretched away to the south-west,
and they could see no land to the west. This made
them begin to hope that they had at last found a pas
sage to the Indian seas. That he might be able to
determine this with more certainty, Cook resolved to
land upon the island which lay upon the south-east part
of the passage, which seemed to have a great many
inhabitants upon it. Dr.. Solander and Mr. Banks, as
usual, went ashore with the captain. There were ten
natives upon the beach — nine of them were armed with
the usual spears, and the tenth had a bundle of arrows
and a bow, which Cook Remarks he had never seen with
the savages upon the mainland. This confirms the
view that Torres saw only the island in his passage

COOK'S VOYAGES. 53
through. Two of the natives had large ornaments of
mother-of-pearl hanging round their necks, and all
seemed to wait the arrival of the boat, as if determined
to oppose the landing. They did not, however ; but as
it came near the shore they walked leisurely away.
Cook immediately climbed the highest hill upon the
island, which was not more than about 300 feet high.
From it he saw all he wanted to see — small as the
view was — and that was that the passage through to
the westward was quite clear.
The island was very barren, and the land to the
north-west consisted of a great number of islands, of
various extent and different heights, ranging one behind
the other as far as the eye could see, a distance of about
forty miles. As Cook was now about to quit the coast
of New Holland, which he had coasted along from
lat. 38° to this place, he took formal possession of
it in 'the name of his Majesty King George III;, by the
name of New South Wales. This ceremony was con
cluded by firing three volleys of small arms, which
were answered by the same number from the ship ; and
though due weight must be given to such a proceeding,
it should be remembered that very likely the same thing
had been done before by Portuguese, Spaniards, and
Dutchmen. The island was named Possession Island ;
the other islands near were not named. As the boat
returned to the ship, a good deal of smoke was seen
rising from various parts of the coast. These were pro
bably signal fires" It will be seen as this work pro
ceeds that this is a very common method with the
natives for either gathering the scattered members of
the tribe or giving warning that strangers are upon
their land.
After visiting this island, Cook made no more
explorations in connection with Australia. He pro
ceeded on his voyage towards New Guinea, and there
we lose sight of him for the present.

54 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA

CHAPTER III.
SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY.
French expedition, under Captain Marion, in 1772 — Furneaux in 1773— Cook
in 1777 — Settlement of Sydney by Governor Phillip in 1788 — Examina
tion of Botany Bay — La Perouse — Sydney Cove — Broken Bay — Discovery
of Pittwater — Lansdown, Carmarthen, and Richmond Hills — Head of
Sydney Harbour — Belle Vue — The Hawkesbuiy — Lieutenant Dawes
tries to reach the Blue Mountains — Other attempts — Vancouver discovers
King George's Sound in 1791.
It can easily be imagined what effect the narrative of
Cook's voyages had in Europe. The French soon caught
at the idea of investigating these strange regions, and
acquiring new empires in the South Seas ; and to show
their activity, Captain Marion was, in 1772, despatched
to examine further the southern continent. He arrived
in Tasmania the same year, with the ships Mascarin and
Castres, and anchored in Fredrik Hendrik Bay, upon
the south coast. The visit is chiefly memorable from a
fatal collision with the natives, who, according to the
French, manifested uncommon ferocity. The account
of it is as follows : — Captain Marion, as he rowed ashore,
noticed a great number of savages upon the beach ; but
as they were not armed, he did not apprehend any dan
ger. As he landed they gave him a fire-stick, which he
supposed was a token of friendship. He did not exactly
know what to do on his part with the peace-offering,
but, supposing that he must do something, he lighted a
fire of wood with it. Upon this they very quietly
retired to a hill, and commenced showering spears and
stones upon the French. These in return fired their
muskets, and the natives fled. Upon pursuing them
into the wood the natives found a dying savage, one of
the first victims of European intrusion into this coun-

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 55
try. We must believe, however, that Marion and his
companions had great provocation, for they were nearly
all slightly injured by the missiles, and a black servant
was severely wounded by a spear.
The remarks made by Marion upon Tasmania are of
no great value. He entered into the country, and saw
the marks and ravages of bush fires everywhere. This,
he supposed, was intended to drive wild animals from
the coast. Though in a forest, he could not discover
materials suitable for a mast which he wanted ; and he
was unsuccessful in his search for water. A small map,
which sketched the form of this coast with considerable
exactness, accompanied the account of this voyage.
They tended to awaken the French to the importance
pf these seas, and led to several subsequent voyages.
The next visit to Australia was that of Captain
Furneaux, in 1773. He accompanied Captain Cook in
his second voyage, and commanded the Adventure, while
Cook commanded the Resolute. On their voyage towards
the South Pole the vessels were separated ; and while
Cook steered to New Zealand, Furneaux directed his
course to Tasmania, the coast of which he reached on
the 9th March.
The morning of the 10th was fine and calm, and
showed them a high, bold coast, with occasional steep
cliffs of rugged rock, but generally covered with the
dense forest, whose blackish foliage gives such a sombre
character to Australian scenes. The cutter was sent on
shore to see if there was any good bay, but the surf
upon the coast, as seen from the ship, seemed to show
that there was not. The crew landed with much diffi
culty, and saw several places where the natives had
been, for there were extinguished fires with a great
number of shells around them. The soil seemed very
rich ; the country was thickly clothed with fine timber,
particularly on the inland side of the hills ; and there
was plenty of water, which fell from the rocks in beauti
ful cascades, 200 or 300 feet perpendicularly into the
sea. But they could find no anchorage. They then
made sail for Fredrik Hendrik Bay, of the Dutch. In
coasting along they saw shore of the most bold and

56 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
rugged description without an opening, but exposed to
the heavy beating of the full swell of the Southern
Ocean. The rocks were of a very dark colour, but the
grassy patches on their summits were of a bright green,
and afforded a most agreeable contrast. Three of them
which stood out from the shore more boldly than the
rest were named the Friars. A little beyond this was
an opening, and Furneaux mistook it for Tasman's Bay,
and steered into it. A short search showed him all that
he wanted : there was a most excellent harbour within,
with clear ground from side to side of it. Here he
anchored, in seven fathoms, completely land-locked
between Tasman's Head and Maria Island, and Penguin
Island. While they lay here they saw several clouds of
smoke and large fires to the northwards, apparently about
eight or ten miles in shore ; but no natives came upon
the coast while they remained. It was evident, how
ever, that they did frequently come to the seaside, for
there were plenty of their huts found in various places,
like scattered camps, where they had made fires. They
seemed to be ignorant of every kind of metal, for their
huts were made of boughs either broken or split. The
larger ends of these were stuck in the ground in a cir
cular form, and the thin ends were tied together at the
top ;_the whole was then covered with ferns and leaves,
but in so imperfect a manner that it would scarcely
afford any shelter from the wind. It may be remarked
here, too, that though the natives were so different from
the Australians, they made their huts in very nearly
the same manner. In the middle of the hut was the fire
place, surrounded with heaps of mussel, pearl oyster, and
scallop shells, for shell-fish were the chief food of the Tas-
manians — I say were, because the race is now extinct.
They slept on dried grass round the fire, and their
houses seemed only constructed for a few days. There
were never more than two or three huts in the same
place, each capable of containing three or four persons.
It was rather remarkable that Furneaux's party saw no
signs of boats or canoes ; neither was there the least
indication of any metal, although he thought the coun
try, in other respects, as good as any in the world.

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 57
Intending to coast along until he came to the lati
tude of Cook's discovery, Furneaux sailed past Maria
Island, and he hoped by this means to ascertain whether
or no Tasmania were joined to Australia. The country
inland appeared to be very well inhabited, for there was
a continual line of fires as they sailed along. The
aspect of the coast was pleasant, being low and even,
but no place where he could conveniently send a boat
ashore to make another attempt to find the inhabi
tants. By-and-by, the coast became very rocky, and
the numerous islands around it obliged him to haul fur
ther off the shore. Its aspect seemed to change, as well
as he could judge from a distance. High, bold moun
tains rose inland, many peaks and blue ranges seemed to
show that the surface was very undulating ; but the
islands were of the most barren description, generally
granite rocks, with hosts of mutton birds upon them.
When Furneaux reached the latitude of 39° 50', he
expressed his opinion that Tasmania and Australia were
joined, but that there was a deep bay between them.
He then left the coast, for the wind having shifted he
thought it best to proceed to New Zealand to meet
Captain Cook, according to previous arrangement. It
is a pity that he did not try to go to the bottom of this
deep bay between Australia and Tasmania. It would
have taken him home again, for apparently he was not
a very enterprising man, nor one that was exactly fit
for voyages of discovery.
For the next four years the Australian seas were
without a visitor. There were only two Powers from
whom voyages of discovery would be then likely to
emanate — the English and the French, and they were
both otherwise engaged during the intervening years.
The French were undergoing the last stages of that
political and social convulsion which was to burst forth
in the Revolution. The English were engaged in the
struggle with the American dependencies. It is strange
that these things should make themselves felt in
Australia ; but it is quite certain that the latter retarded
the. colonizing of New South Wales for nearly twenty
years. But there was always interest enough felt in

58 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Cook's voyages to equip fresh ones under his command,
even in the most troublous times. We find him ac
cordingly afloat again, and in January, 1777, visiting
Tasmania. He sighted land between South Cape and
Tasmania Head, and anchored the same day in Adven
ture Bay — the one recently discovered by Furneaux.
Next morning a party was sent ashore, and for the first
time since any navigation had touched these shores,
friendly intercourse was established with the natives.
They were different from the Australian savages, being
shorter in stature, a little lighter in the colour, and with
short, crisp woolly hair, instead of the long, flowing raven
locks of the latter. They wore, loose round their necks,
three or four folds of small cord made of fur, and others
had a narrow strip of kangaroo skin tied round their
ankles. Some wore whole kangaroo skins roimd their
waists, and over their shoulders ; in the latter case to
support children who were thus carried about. The
skins were untanned, and they were the only articles of
clothing worn. The bodies of both men and women
were much scarred, and the heads of the latter were en
tirely or partly shaved, sometimes leaving a ring of hair
round the brows, very much resembling the tonsure of
monks. They had no weapons but short sticks, when
they first came to see the navigators, and on being shown
the effects of a gun-shot, they ran into the woods with the
greatest precipitation.
Cook found the land of Adventure Bay to be high,
and besides being very diversified with beautiful hills and
valleys, was delightfully verdant. It was well wooded,
so that the officers and men spent the time pleasantly
enough amid the gigantic forest. Abundance of water
was also procurable, and Cook having spent a week in
supplying his immediate wants, sailed away to New
Zealand ; destined, however, never to see England
again. After Cook's time, a long and dreary interval ensued,
which was to be the introduction to days of activity and
stormy enterprise. On this hitherto deserted land civili
zation was about to come at last, and the prelude of
eleven years, during which no one visited these shores,

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 59
seems like the quiet of the dawn which precedes a sum
mer's morning. When at last these years were gone,
and the savages had either forgotten the visit of the
whites^ or it had become strangely distorted as a legend
for their moonlight dances, a strange sight broke upon
their view one hot summer's morning in January. Yes,
in January, mind, for we are dealing with the antipodes ;
and those whose only idea of January warmth is in con
nection with thickly covered beds and blazing fires,
must remember that in January, Australia glows with a
fiery heat, presenting a copper coloured sky, and an
arid soil as a back-ground to every landscape. Well, in
this January, 1788, a great sight broke upon the view
of the Botany Bay tribe. Ships they had perhaps seen
before ; but so many sailing in at once, and such large
ones, was more than they had ever seen. Australians
are not in the habit of troubling themselves much about
anything ; but in this instance it appears they laid aside
their apathy, and took up their spears. For not only
were ships anchoring in their bay, in number beyond
all precedent, but boats were descending, and seemed de
termined to possess the land, while the ships possessed
the water. The first boat came nearer and nearer, and
all the crew made such demonstrations of peace and good
intentions, that they forgot their right to the land ; for
got the legend about the small shot in their countryman's
legs, and fraternized with the intruders. The leader of
the company, who stood before them in the full splendour
of naval cocked-hat and gold braid, was no less a person
than Captain Phillip, or Governor Phillip, who was
charged by the Home Government to take away the
land from the blacks, and give it to the men he had with
him; who were principally sent out from England,
because they would not let other people's property alone.
It was thought that they would thus reform.
The expedition was a very large one ; it consisted of
1000 souls, with suitable stores for the bodies, all packed
up in three men-of-war, six convict ships, and three store
ships. The colonists were selected in the most miscella
neous manlier. Some, probably the majority , were politi
cal offenders, or sent out for offences of so slight a nature

60 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
that society would have risked nothing by keeping them
at home. Others were desperate characters, rendered
still more desperate by the prospect of flogging or the
gallows before them for the slightest fault. Our
business does not lie with them, however, so we leave
them peering with longing eyes through loopholes and
cracks at the virgin forest which is to be their home,
while the governor has the trying task of looking for a
suitable place to settle upon.
The first examination of Botany Bay elicited very^
unsatisfactory results. It was recommended by Cook'
and others, but they had not looked upon it with the
eyes of men choosing a home. It was extensive enough
as a bay — too extensive, in fact, for it did not afford a
shelter from easterly winds, and what made this worse
was, that ships would always be obliged to anchor a
long way out, because the water was so shallow. Fresh
water was abundant, for in the northern part of the
opening there was a small stream, George's River . But
they would never think of building a town upon it. It
was so narrow that it would scarcely allow a small boat
to pass, and the banks upon either side were a perfect
morass. The western side of the bay was better, but
there was no fresh water at all in that direction.
It was evident, then, that they dare not disembark in
Botany Bay. Governor Phillip was an energetic man,
one well fitted for the task he had to perform. He was
not, therefore, at a loss. He ordered the ships to remain
as they were, while he went round the coast in an open
boat to see if a better port could not be found. The
coast, as he drew near Port Jackson, wore a most un
promising appearance : the natives stood upon the tops
of the cliffs, and warned the boats off with shouts of
defiance ; but the governor kept on. Soon he saw the
opening, and passed under a stratified cliff of sandstone,
some 300 feet high, descending into deep water.
There was another head to match it on the other side,
and when he had passed between these, and left the
noise of the booming breakers far behind, a beautiful and
tranquil scene broke upon his delighted gaze. It
seemed like a gigantic lake, but so run in with estuaries

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 61
and little islets as to appear great only from the count
less variations of scenery. This was Port Jackson. Still
it was a question where he should land his crew among
the many little bays about. The place was soon decided
upon, and it received the name Sydney Cove, after
Thomas Townshend Yiscount Sydney, one of the
members of the younger Pitt's administration.
It took three days for the governor to complete all
his explorations, and he returned to the ships. Direc
tions were at once given for an immediate removal to
Sydney Cove. This removal would have taken place the
day following, but for a singular circumstance. About
daylight, just as -they were preparing for a start, there
were cries that two strange sail were in the offing. The
sight of the phantom ship could not have created greater
astonishment than these ships bearing into the bay.
There they were, sure enough, and what was still more
singular, they showed French colours. While conjecture
was busy among the colonists, it was busy enough on
board the French ships too. Travelling alone through
the wide extent of these pathless seas, where every week
showed them new variations of vast unreclaimed soli
tude, it was certainly a matter of astonishment to find
many ships at anchor in the midst of the loneliness.
Scarcely were the anchors down, when boats put off,
and mutual explanations followed upon both sides.
Governor Phillip learned with surprise that the vessels
before him were the French exploring vessels, Bossole
and Astrolabe, then upon a voyage of discovery, under
the command of the unfortunate La Perouse.
After a mutual exchange of civilities, both parties
proceeded to the work they had in hand ; the English to
settle down upon their home at Sydney Cove, the French
to provide themselves with wood and water from Botany
Bay. By the beginning of March the governor had got
things a little settled. The ground had been cleared,
and the work of storehouses and other buildings begun.
All this was not easy. The work of felling gigantic
gum trees was in itself a fearful task, and to remove
them afterwards and grub the stumps required the
labour of all their men for weeks together. It might

C2 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
have been done quicker and better by regular labourers,
but' with convicts not much could be accomplished.
When things began to look a little orderly, and the
sickness which raged among them had begun to abate,
the governor went with the long boat and cutter on an
excursion to Broken Bay. This was found to be very
extensive. After rowing about it until evening, the
party landed upon a rocky point on the north-west
side, and there passed the night. This point was chosen
as a place of security, for the natives, though friendly,
were rather too numerous to be trusted. On the day
following the boat continued her course. The water got
very. shallow until they passed a bar which their small
boats could scarcely float over. They then entered a very
extensive branch with deep water, out of which the tide
came so strongly, that the boats could scarcely make head
way against it. This opening appeared to end in several
deep inlets, which there was not sufficient time to examine,
as the boat had much difficulty in finding a channel
amid the banks of sand and mud. Leaving this north
west branch, they went across the bay into another
which ran south-west. This was also found to be very
extensive, and from it ran a second opening to the west
ward, affording good and extensive shelter. Continued
rains prevented the party from making a survey of
their discoveries upon this expedition ; more especially
as the land was much higher here than at Port Jackson ;
was more rocky, and equally covered with timber.
Above them soared the Blue Mountains in huge, preci
pitous walls of red sandstone, crowned on the summit
with trees, and apparently quite inaccessible. Upon the
south side of the bay there was a headland, which
seemed to obstruct the view, but on rounding it, the
finest harbour of all was discovered, and it received the
name of Pittwater. But all these harbours were ren
dered comparatively useless by the bar which stretched
across the entrance. The land was pretty good all
round, and well watered ; one spring forming a beautiful
cascade over the rocks into the sea. In this excursion
a good many interviews with the natives took place, and
it was for the first time observed that some of the women

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 63
had lost the first two joints in the little finger of the
left hand.
On the 10th March, M. De La Perouse sailed away
from the shores of Australia. He had shown the
greatest courtesy to the settlers, though in the latter part
ofhis stay he was almost every day harassed with run
away convicts, who entreated to be taken on board the
ships. They were always sent back to the settlement,
and there punished with a pain, more acute, but less
lasting than .the disappointment of the hopes of home
and liberty. Before La Perouse left, M. Le Receveur,
a Franciscan priest, who was naturalist to the expedition,
died, and was buried in Botany Bay. He was the only
one of the ill-starred expedition who left his bones among
Christian people. The fate of the others is now well
known, though it remained a mystery for many years ;
but after leaving Botany Bay not one of them was ever
after seen alive by Europeans.
On the 15th March, Governor Phillip went again
exploring. This time he went round the head of the
harbour. He found. that at first it was very low and
marshy, until a large lagoon was met with. The land
then began to rise, but became very rocky and barren.
The hills were covered with a low shrubby underwood,
which was very pretty, inasmuch as it was in flower ;
but it presented great difficulties in ascending and
descending the undulations of the ground. At a distance
of about fifteen miles from the sea coast, a very pretty hill
was ascended, and from it there was a fine view of the
mountains and the inland country. The most northerly
mountains he called Carmarthen Hills, and the most
distant southerly, Lansdown Hills ; and to some that
were intermediate, he gave the name of Richmond
Hills. From the manner in which these mountains
appeared to rise, it was thought almost certain that a
large river must descend from among them, but they
could not then pursue their examination further.
On the 22nd, another expedition of the same kind
was undertaken. The governor with his party landed
near the head of the harbour, where some good land
appeared, but it did not continue long. In a very short

64 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
time they arrived at a dense scrub of low underwood.
A long time was spent in trying to force a way through
it, but all in vain, and finding it impenetrable they were
obliged to return. Next day they found a way round
the scrub, and continued their course westward. The
country improved rapidly upon this course ; it was
beautifully grassed and timbered, and besides having a
rich soil, was gently undulating. The further they
went, the more the country improved, but they could
not reach the Blue Mountains as they intended. While
they were still thirty miles from them, the provisions
failed, and they were obliged to retrace their steps. The
furthest point reached was named Belle Vue, because of
the beautiful prospect it afforded. Water was found in
abundance everywhere upon the road. The extraordi
nary difficulty of penetrating into this sort of country
had now been fully experienced. The deep ravines of
the Blue Mountains had begun to show how impassable
they were, especially when assisted by the dense thicket
which grew about them. The utmost extent of this ex
cursion, in a direct line, had not been more than thirty
miles, and it had taken up five days.
It was still the general opinion, that the appearance
of the country promised the discovery of a large river
in that district whenever the line now taken could be
freely pursued. Another expedition was therefore
planned, in which it was determined to reach either the
Lansdown or Carmarthen Hills. Some circumstances
deferred this expedition for a time, and meanwhile
the governor went overland to Botany Bay. This
journey resulted only in discovering some few hills which
lay between the two places. Again the governor was
astir, soon after his return on the side of Broken Bay.
This time he discovered a large fresh-water river from
the westward, which emptied itself into Broken Bay ;
this he named the Hawkesbury. On the 14th July, he
traced up the river for a considerable distance to the
westward ; in fact, he reached the Richmond Hills before
the stream became too shallow for further investigation in
the boat. The windings of the channel were beautifully
picturesque, there being dense thickets which made a wall

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 65
of graceful foliage over the water, broken only by well-
grassed hills. It was evident, too, that the Hawkesbury
was liable at times to terrible floods. There were marks
of such full forty feet above the water, and these were
accompanied with signs of violence, which showed
the impetuosity of the stream to have been very great.
Not a nice place for a settlement, thought Governor
Phillip, as he rowed home again, though his expedi
tion had afforded him new and vast ideas of the fertility
of the land of their adoption. His journeys were almost
continuous ; in fact, as long as there was a question un
solved, or a hill in sight which he had not visited, he
was always exploring. The same restless craving for
the unknown was shared by all his officers and men.
There was never any difficulty in raising volunteers for
an exploring party, no matter how great the fatigues to
which they were sure to be exposed.
Early in the month of August, Lieutenant Dawes,
with a small party, and a still smaller supply of pro
visions, set off, determined to reach the Blue Mountains.
They reached first a branch of the Hawkesbury, which
had been previously discovered by Captain Tench ; but
a little beyond this their progress was nearly stopped by
very precipitous ravines. But still they struggled over
them for a considerable distance. They desisted at last
when only about eleven miles from the mountains. The
difficulties were enormous ; and even had they been less,
the provisions he had with him would not have carried
him further. Unpleasantly for him, his line of march
was chosen right across a line of ravines and gullies.
This unfortunate termination to the expedition
stopped for a time all further investigations. The
officers had ascertained the nature of most ofthe country
around them, and as for what was beyond^it was evident
that no expedition could be undertaken with any chance
of success unless it were upon a very large scale, and
this they were not then in a position of affording. A
momentary effort was, however, made in 1790, when
some officers made an excursion in a direction south
west of Paramatta. They were absent six days, and
reported having passed through a very bad country
vol. i. F

66 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
intersected everywhere with deep ravines. This was
the last effort for a time. In the meanwhile the settle
ment had gone on and prospered. It is true that pro
visions were scarce at times, and floggings and hangings
became very frequent. Perhaps severity was the very
condition of their existence, but Governor Phillip does
not appear to have been over-endowed with mercy.
While he was governor, a settlement had been made
upon Norfolk Island ; the founder of it was Captain
Philip Gidley King. He had a son born to him at the
island, who was afterwards the celebrated explorer and
navigator, Rear- Admiral Philip P. King, whose doings
will be spoken of in a subsequent part of this work.
In 1791, Captain Yancouver made some important
discoveries upon the shores of Australia. In his voyage
in that year he reached the south coast of Australia,
not very far from King George's Sound. The first
land he saw was a high mountain, which he named
Mount Gardiner, and some islands off the mainland
were called Eclipse Isles. The appearance of the shore
was far from tempting. The country was wooded, but
apparently very sandy, with here and there a huge granite
rock protruding. But there seemed an opening leadin g
up to a fine bay, and as the soundings were regular,
Vancouver steered straight into it. Here the vessel was
anchored in a well sheltered position, and the crew
landed. Yancouver was easily pleased, it appears, for
he described this country, which supported only a low,
coarse vegetation, with thick brushwood, wiry grass, and
stunted trees,* as good land, though certainly not of the
best. He went along the shores of the Sound towards
a high rocky point, named Point Possession, and on reach
ing its summit had an excellent view of the inlet in
all directions. The surrounding country and its neigh
bourhood presented a far more fertile and pleasing
aspect than had been before observed. Nearly in the
centre of the sound was an island covered with a good
deal of green herbage, differing in that respect from the
islands around, which were mere barren rocks. The soil
* Darwin's Nat. Voyage.

SETTLEMENT OF SYDNEY. 67
of the island was red cliffs, near the sea ; but still the whole
aspect of the place was not pleasing. There was an
approach to the picturesque in the way the sand-hills
seemed heaving and rippling in the distance ; there was
even something wild and sombre in the thin wiry grass,
or dense thicket of rushes with which they were covered ;
but it was a landscape which owed its principal beauty
to the air of savage desolation about it. The trees and
shrubs all bore the marks which showed them to have
once borne the ravages of fire ; indeed, it would be diffi
cult to find a part of Australia where the timber does
not bear such marks ; but with this exception, neither
Yancouver nor his companions were able to find any
traces of the natives, nor any signs to show that they
ever visited that locality. In sailing out of the sound,
the boats grounded on a bank in a small cove which had
been previously seen ; it was covered with oysters, and
this circumstance earned for it the name of Oyster
Harbour. This completed Vancouver's discoveries upon
this coast.

F 2

68 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.

CHAPTER IV.
Explorations in Tasmania — Bligh — D'Entrecasteaux — The West Coast-
Hayes in Tasmania — Sydney — Hacking's attempt to cross the Blue
Mountains — Bass and Flinders — The explorations of the Tom T/mmb —
Bass's attempt to cross the Blue Mountains — River Grose — Mount Hunter
— Bass's Straits discovered — Flinders and Bass sail round Tasmania.
While Governor Phillip was exploring about Sydney,
several visits were made to Tasmania, of which mention
will now be made. Tasmania does not, properly speak
ing, belong to the limits proposed in this work ; but at
this time it was thought to be a part of Australia, and
until Bass's Straits were discoverd, was intimately con
nected with the continent in every exploration that was
made. It, therefore, becomes an important object to
chronicle everything connected with its exploration, at
least in this early period of Australian history.
In July, 1789, a visit was made to the Tasmanian
coast by Captain J. H. Cox, of the brig Mercury. He
entered one or two deep bays, not very far from Adven
ture Bay, and in an attempt to reach the latter, he dis
covered a new inlet, which he named Oyster Bay.
Captain Bligh, subsequently governor of New South
Wales, and then commanding the ill-fated ship Bounty,
touched at Tasmania, on his celebrated voyage to
Tahiti. He visited the coast a second time, when in
command of the ship Providence, in 1792. He anchored
in both instances in Adventure Bay, and during his stay
planted many fruits and vegetables.
In the meantime the French Government had become
very anxious about La Perouse's expedition. Nothing
had been heard of him since his visit to Botany Bay in
1788, and then he had been three years away from

EXPLORATIONS IN TASMANIA. 69
home. Seven years had now elapsed, and still there
were no tidings. The melancholy conclusion that he
had been lost was pretty evident to the mind of every
one ; but in answer to the general wish to have the
matter cleared up, an expedition was fitted out, under the
command of Admiral D'Entrecasteaux. There were two
ships, the Recherche and Esperance ; the former com
manded by the Admiral, and the latter by Captain
Huon Kermadec. The two vessels arrived off the coast
of Tasmania in 1792, and on the 21st of April anchored
off Storm Bay.
M. Labelladiere, the celebrated botanist, was the
naturalist to the expedition, and he has left us the only
account of the voyage which is now extant. This nar
rative is brief, and, unfortunately, instead of telling us
what we all want to know under such circumstances,
that is, about the appearance of the coast and the land,
he falls to most needless discussions about magnetism,
tides, and southernly winds. He tells us that the Admiral
was afraid to anchor in Storm Bay at first, as he con
sidered the place too exposed, but the vessels having
found a little cove higher up, he took the ships into it.
Their first care was to go fishing, and the immense
quantity caught surprised as well delighted them.
In this respect, as tastes differ, the quality must not be
too closely scrutinized, for amongst the spoils were long
blue sharks, which are, to say the least, somewhat coarse
eating. Round about the inlet huge mountains rose to an
immense height, or stretched their vast, gloomy, thickly
timbered gullies down into the sea beyond them. It was
a lonely spot, broken by no sounds except those of the
ships ; for even the winds were enclosed so as not to blow
with violence upon that sheltered basin. When they
landed they were like all explorers in the same place,
suprised and delighted with the immense size of the
trees around them. The French botanist went into
raptures of delight; he says, " that the eye was astonished
with the prodigious height of the trees, some being
upwards of 150 feet high ; their summits crowned with
perpetual verdure ; several of them, falling from age,

70 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
found a support upon their neighbours, and fell to the
ground only in proportion as they rotted. Most of the
vegetation formed an admirable contrast with the state
of decay." Above was life and vigour, strength and
light ; below was gloom and damp, death and decay,
but it was Phoenix rising from the ashes — the decaying
vegetation forming a vegetable mould of immense rich
ness, which supported a thick undergrowth of young
and healthy saplings.
This forest was not, however, so thick as to prevent
them entering it. At first, the soil was marshy, but it
became drier as they reached the sources of the waters
which flowed down in rivulets from the mountain sides.
Sometimes, however, the ground was found to be under
mined with sunken ponds, and these were so completely
covered over with moss, and overhung with long grass,
that frequently the explorers only knew of their exist
ence by actual immersion in them. These things, com
bined with the dense nature of the scrub and under
growth of shrubs, rather confined the wanderings of the
visitors, but they made several excursions into the in
terior while they remained.
On one occasion they passed through the forest until
they arrived at a large plain which extended to the sea
shore. Here they spent the night, filling up the record
of their adventures, not with descriptions of scenery,
but with their fears of the natives. But they saw only
one native during the whole time of their absence, and
after two days' hard walking, they returned to their ships
in safety. In the meanwhile an examination had been
made of the inlet where the vessels were lying. A very
little further on the east side of them there was a portion
where the land did not close entirely round the water.
An attempt to reach the bottom of this showed them that
they were in a strait instead of a bay, and that while
Adventure Bay was on an island, the bay in which
they anchored ran between that island and the sea. A
description of both the island and the strait will be
worth the reader's attention.
The island is almost like two, united by a narrow
isthmus which forms the shore of Adventure Bay. Both

EXPLORATIONS IN TASMANIA. 71
north and south portions are extremely fertile, and now
support a goodly number of inhabitants, with one or two
little townships besides. Adventure Bay, it will be re
membered, was discovered by Furneaux, and ever since
had been the first point for explorers to visit. It is a
very beautiful place, a fine sandy beach runs round it,
and the forests are sublime from their magnitude. The
strait which divides it from the main is perfectly marvel
lous for the singular beauty and wildness of its scenery.
It has been often necessary to speak of the greatness of
the trees, and the fine appearance of the forests, but in
this strait they assume proportions and beauties which
baffle description. It is not alone in the stately
grandeur of the tall straight trunks, nor yet the rocky
headlands which here and there jut into trans
parent water, and shade it with their verdure ; but it is
the grey or bluish-grey tint of the darkened atmosphere ;
it is the calm of the ocean, which, shut in between
the abrupt mountains, lies still and pellucid as glass ; it
is, finally, the loneliness — the gloom of those vast
mountain recesses on either side, into which man has
not as yet penetrated — which make it so sublime with
calm, mysterious splendour.
After many explorations and surveys in boats, the
ships commenced to work down the strait, which was
named D'Entrecasteaux's Channel. As they passed
along, the crew saw two islands, one of which lay at the
mouth of a fine broad river, as useful, apparently, for the
purposes of navigation as it was beautiful. The river was
named the Huon, and has since become celebrated for
the production of a tree which yields the pretty cabinet
wood, known as Huon pine. To the southward of the
river was a deep and gloomy bay, named after one of
the ships, Esperance Bay. A deep and long lagoon
extends a long way beyond this island, and beside
it another anchorage, which was called after the
Recherche. After leaving Tasmania, the vessels visited the west
coast of Australia, and coasted along the south part in
December of the same year.
The interior of the country, wherever they could see

72 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
it, was intersected by downs covered with sand, which
exhibited an aspect of great aridity. Those to the south
ward, where the land was lower, were scattered about
like so many islets, and the space between them was
occupied by shrubs, but dark and gloomy looking in
their foliage. There were rocks here and there starting
up among the sandhills, so that very likely the latter
were only covering others which served as a nucleus
upon which the drift might collect. Behind this the
mountains seemed to form a regular chain, but not, ap
parently, rising higher than about twelve hundred feet.
They were not always as heavily timbered as other moun
tains ; barren rocky spots were easily perceptible, and
these were not only precipices, hut places where evidently
the soil was so poor and stony that nothing could grow
upon it. The French also remarked that the mountains
also appeared in several rows, rising like stairs one
above another. Several other peculiarities were ob
served and set down by M. Labelladiere, who seems to
have had an especial talent for noticing unimportant
things, at least in Australia, and giving no place to
features which we should like to see described. By
the time the ships had reached longitude 119°, the coast
headed regularly towards the east-south-east. Its sinu
osities were now slight, and the capes small, none of
them extending two miles into the sea. The swell
of the ocean began also to make itself felt, and the huge
rollers of the Southern Ocean could be perceived at a
distance breaking over the outlying rocks, and sending
their foamy wrath in white jets more than forty feet
into the air.
The vessel continued coasting along for some days,
until a storm drove them to anchor in Le Grand Bay,
so called after a seaman who discovered it. This was in
lat. 33° 55', Ion. 119° 32'. There they landed, because they
were badly in want of water ; but none was to be found
on that sandy and desolate part of the coast. Whichever
way they turned, nothing but glaring yellow hills of
sand met them ; and if there was any variation upon
this, it was only because salt lakes occupied their place,
or the sand was covered with a dark and dry kind of

EXPLORATIONS IN TASMANIA. 73
coarse shrub. The shore was very much exposed to the
winds, and whether there was wind or not, the swell
which came in raised a surf which was prodigious. It
was only on very favourable occasions that the boat's
crew could land, and when they did, it was a matter of
much greater difficulty to get off again in safety.
In the hope of finding some favourable place for
watering the ships, they coasted along to long. 127° ;
but the appearance of the land went from bad to worse,
and for the last few days the coast had been an unbroken
line of cliffs 300 feet high, beyond which they could not
see the slightest sign of available country.
On the 20th January, 1793, they sighted a new bay
in Tasmania, which they named Rocky Bay — quasi lucus
a non lucendo — because one of the vessels got aground,
and did not touch upon a rock. The ships remained a
month in Tasmania, and made many observations on the
country. At this time Mount Wellington, as it was after
wards named, was covered with snow, and altogether
the appearance of the country was by far finer than
when they had visited it before. From a hill which they
ascended, the explorers had an extensive view of the
country around, on which many open plains and large
lakes were to be seen. They had several interviews with
the natives. One excursion was made to the summit of
one of the spurs of Mount Wellington ; it took them a
long time to reach the top, but when they did a fine
view of the coast line rewarded them. The day was far
advanced when they sat on the top of the first hill, and
when they started they expected to reach much further.
There they perceived the whole extent ofthe valley which
lay between them and the mountain which they at first
intended to visit, the interval which separated them
from it was about three-quarters of a mile, and this was
occupied by a thick and dense forest, through which the
long feathery branches of the bright green fern-tree
could be seen. From this the great chain of mountains
appeared to extend to a vast distance, in a direction from
north-east to south-west. This expedition was fraught
with so much difficulty in passing through the forests,
that for the future they resolved to confine their exami-

74 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
nations to the coasts. It was then they discovered the
Derwent River. They left Tasmania on the 28th of
February. The Derwent did not receive that name from D'En
trecasteaux ; he called it the Riviere de Nord._ It was
Captain John Hayes, of the Bombay Marine, who
changed the name. He visited the coast in 1794, and
passed up D'Entrecasteaux's Channel, and examined
Storm Bay ; probably he did not know of the visit of
the French ; tut whether he did or not, he re-named all
the places which he saw, as if they had never been
visited before. It was rather ill-advised for others to
adhere to his names ; the survey of the French was
found to be far more correct than his most meagre and
imperfect charts : and the new names contained such
euphonious gems, as Flower Pots, Tinder-Box Bay,
and the Oil Butts, which are still retained.
Let us now take another glance at the progress of
the colony of New South Wales, which during all this
time had been progressing rapidly, but, at the same
time, not doing much to explore the country around.
Settlements were increasing in number ; that is to say,
Sydney was the central depot whence offshoots of
towns and farms went out in every direction where the
land was available. Paramatta had nearly as many
inhabitants as Sydney, and all along the banks of the
Hawkesbury, farms and homesteads were springing up.
The formerly deserted landscape was varied with many
a curling wreath of smoke ; the hitherto unbroken
silence of the forest echoed with the noise of the axe
or the cracking of the teamster's whip. The natives
seeing the eagerness with which river-banks were
taken up as settlements, made use of the knowledge to
their own advantage. They offered, on certain con
ditions, to show where water could be found in abund
ance. They stated that at no very great distance from
Botany Bay there was a large fresh-water river, which
ran into the sea. This story was eagerly listened to,
and the Government very soon equipped two soldiers
with provisions for a week, and directed them to
follow the natives to ascertain the truth of the story.

SYDNEY. 75
They set off from the south shore of Port Jackson,
accompanied by a native as a guide, who professed a
knowledge of the country, and named the place where
the river could be found. He repeated his story so
often, and was so minute in his details, that very great
expectations were formed of this expedition. It was
all very well, however, as long as he was within the
limits of the country of his own tribe ; but as soon as
he got beyond that, it was evident that he was quite
astray, and had to trust to the soldiers to bring him
back. This little incident is mentioned to show what
little reliance can be placed upon the stories of the
natives, and even in this early stage of this history it
is as well to bear it in mind. Instances will frequently
be given, in the course of these volumes, of much
larger expeditions being undertaken on the strength of
such information, and yet failing completely. The fact
is, the more circumstantial the natives are in their
accounts ; the more they try to gain credence by a
minute attention to detail in their narratives, the
greater probability is there that they are entirely
untrue. They generally know what one wants to
believe, and frequently this information is even given
by the questions they are asked, and they lie accord
ingly. The distance penetrated by the soldiers on this
occasion was about twenty miles south of Botany Bay,
and they came to a large inlet of the sea, which seemed
to form a harbour. The head of this they went round
without discovering any fresh-water river near it.
The country they described as high and rocky in the
neighbourhood of the inlet, and this was supposed to
be somewhere about Red Point. The native returned
with the soldiers as cheerful and as well pleased as if
he had shown them the finest river in the world.
All this time, however, the western mountains
formed a barrier to much further exploration of the
interior. We may be sure that many a longing eye
was turned towards them ; many a wistful look was
given to that lofty barrier which seemed so easy,
and yet which no one was able to reach. A seaman

76 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
from one of the transports made an attempt about this
time, but returned unsuccessful. The man's name was
Hacking, and he had been formerly quarter-master of
the Sirius ; but one cannot say whether his version of
his travels was exactly true or not. He was absent
seven days, and reported having penetrated further
than any other European. He said that he had
reached the mountain ; that then his way lay over
eighteen or nineteen ridges of high rocks ; and that
when he gave up any attempt to penetrate further, it
was only because, he said, the same kind of obstacles
lay in his way for a much greater distance. The sum
mits of these rocks were, he said, of ironstone, large
fragments of the same rocks lying in the valleys be
tween, in which there were also pools of water. There
were marks, too, he said, of hurricanes and storms
which visited this locality, for the ground was strewn
on every side with the branches of trees, which lay
about in the greatest confusion on the side facing the
south-east. The hills seemed interminable north and
south, and to the west they rose like a wall. He saw
but one native on the journey, who fled. There was
nothing singular in that, because the wild natives do
run from the whites when they are alone ; but the
singular part of the story is that a native should be
there at all. But altogether it must be admitted
that Hacking's tale looks very much like truth.
The next attempt to cross the Blue Mountains was
made by one whose name has since become celebrated
in connection with Australian exploration. This was
Mr. Bass. He had, in 1795, arrived in the colony, on
board the Reliance, to which ship he was a surgeon,
and associated with him in the same vessel was a mid
shipman named Flinders. Both were enthusiastic on
thesubject of exploration, and it formed the constant
topic of their conversation during all the spare time
they had on board. Remembering how bitterly they
subsequently suffered for their zeal, it is quite affecting
to read of their early zest for discovery, and the great
charm it seemed to possess for them. Their story, told
m their own simple words, is a record of daring and

BASS AND FLINDERS. ' 77
enterprise, which Australians treasure, and of which
every Briton may be proud. I have preferred, in the
narrative which follows, to use almost their own words
for I feel I could not improve upon it. Indeed, this is
the classical ground of Australian exploration, and
everything connected with it wears an aspect of such
romantic interest that it seems almost a desecration to
interfere with the little which remains to us on the
subject. On arriving at Port Jackson, in September, 1795,
Flinders found that the investigation of the coast had
not extended much beyond three harbours. Jervis
Bay had been entered by Lieutenant Bowen, and Port
Stephens had been recently examined by Mr. Grimes,
surveyor to the colony, but the intermediate portions
of the coast to the north and south were little further
known than from the account given of them by Captain
Cook. Flinders burned to lift the veil of obscurity which
still hung over the coast. He says he often talked
over the matter with Mr. Bass, a man who was not to
be deterred by any obstacles, and who would shrink
from no danger. But they were quite powerless with
no means at their disposal. They might urge upon
the colonial government the importance of such under
takings, and we can readily believe they did so ; but
there was too much to be done at that time to the
colony, and far too little money to do it ; so to think of
equipping exploring parties was out of the question.
But Bass, it was said, would not let any obstacle deter
him. He and Flinders bought a small boat for a large
sum. It was only eight feet long, and the crew was
a very little boy besides the proprietors. One would
think that, with no other resources, this would not have
raised their hopes ; but it was precisely on these
resources that they founded their first project.
One month after the arrival of the ship, they made
their first expedition. A small sail was hoisted, which
Flinders managed, while Bass steered, and the boy was
kept to bale. They tacked to and fro about the har
bour to test their sailing capabilities, and then stood

78 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
boldly out of the heads into the huge rolling swell of
the ocean. The little Tom Thumb, for so they had
named their craft, danced about like a feather on the
ripple, and seemed no more than a mere bit of sea
weed upon the long rollers. Her sails hung idly flap
ping in the valleys between the swell, and when
descending the crest of the wave the wind was enough
to take her mast out ; but she kept her way boldly,
and in due course reached Botany Bay. Their first
exploration was in ascending the George's River, which
falls into that bay. They went up this about twenty
miles beyond a point which Captain Hunter had
named in his survey. They explored its windings,
and found several patches of really good land among
them. Having ascertained many particulars about the
country around, they returned again to the sea, and
got back safe and sound to Sydney.
The information supplied even by this little excur
sion was of great value, and it resulted in the flourish
ing settlement of Banks Town being formed upon the
sides of the George a few months after. But we must
admit that the adventurers owed a great deal to good
fortune. Their success was quite a chance. Had a
storm arisen even when they were on shore, so as to
prevent them putting out to sea, they must have
starved to death, or perished miserably from the
natives. We shall see these risks more forcibly in the
next expedition which was made by the Tom Thumb.
In the meantime the little vessel was laid up in
ordinary for a short period. The Reliance was ordered
on a voyage to Norfolk Island, and, as the surgeon
and midshipman could not be spared from the ship,
exploring had to be given over ; but not for long. In
March, 1796, the Reliance returned, and the Tom
Thumb was again launched. The rumour about the
large river to the south of the bay was still in their
minds, and they thought it might yet be found to be
true. Early in the morning of March 25, they sailed
from Port Jackson, standing out to sea to wait "for the
sea-breeze. This took them far out, and when they
tacked towards shore in the evening, instead of being

EXPLORATIONS OF THE TOM THUMB. 79
off Cape Solander, as they expected, they found that a
southernly current had drifted them further down, to a
place where it was impossible to land ; so they had to
remain all night at sea. There were some islands
below them, which they tried to reach ; but in doing
so, saw a place where they could obtain water by swim
ming ashore with the cask. This was not a good place
to land upon, so they preferred swimming in and out to
their boat. Mr. Bass went on shore, and filled the
cask. While getting it off, a surf arose further out
than usual. This carried the boat before it on to the
beach, so that there they were left high, but not dry,
for their arms, ammunition, and clothes were tho
roughly drenched and partly spoiled. It would not do
to stay to dry them, because the natives might come,
and they would be defenceless ; so they emptied and
launched the boat as quickly as possible, and then
slowly rafted the things on board. It was late in the
afternoon before everything was got off, and they then
tried to reach the islands. It was not possible to land
on either of them ; but there were two larger ones
lying near, and they went to them. These were also
inaccessible, and, being now dark, the wet and hungry
crew had to pass another cold night in the boat,
with their stone anchor dropped under the lee of Red
Point. They would have returned on the 27th, but the sea-
breeze was too strong for them to beat against. Two
natives were seen on shore, who were hailed, and, to
the gratification of the explorers, they replied in
English. They told them that there was no water to
be found on Red Point, but that there was a river a
few miles further southward, where not only fresh
water was abundant, but there were plenty of fish and
wild ducks. They were natives of Botany Bay, and
consequently, having been long in contact with the
whites, they could be trusted with safety. The river,
however, turned out to be a miserable affair. It was
nothing more than a small stream, which descended
from a lagoon under Hat Hill. It was so narrow and
tortuous that even the Tom Thumb had a very great

80 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
difficulty in getting any distance up it. Their native
guides, who had had free passages given them in the
boat, now left them, and walked alongside in company
with eight or ten strangers who had joined them.
After rowing up the stream for about a mile, the
adventurers began to be uneasy about the narrowness
of the stream. The natives here had the reputation of
being ferocious and cruel ; and if they chose to be
hostile now, it was quite evident they could easily
destroy the boat's crew with their spears. -But fresh
water was wanted badly before they could think of
returning. Besides this, their muskets and powder
were wet, and it was better to make both serviceable
before they provoked any hostility by trying to go
back. After consulting together, they, with very
great presence of mind, agreed not to show the
slightest fear, but land among the savages, and whilst
one engaged their attention, the other should dry the
powder, and clean the muskets. This was undoubtedly
the best course to pursue, and one worthy the attention
of future explorers. Readers will see, in the course of
this narrative, that the only way to disarm the cruel
treachery of the Australian savages is, while taking
every precaution against surprise, to show not the
slightest fear of them.
Mr. Bass accordingly landed, and went among the
savages, and endeavoured to occupy them by getting
their assistance in mending a broken oar, while Flin
ders spread out the wet powder in the sun. This met
with no opposition, for the natives scarcely knew what
powder was ; but when they proceeded to clean the
muskets, they became so alarmed that the explorers
were compelled to desist. On inquiring for water,
they were told that there was none nearer than the
lagoon; but as this was too far to go, after many
evasions, they were shown a native well not very far
from where they stood. Here the cask was filled, and
the Tom Thumb turned again towards the sea without
any opposition from its savage friends. By rowing
hard they got a good many miles nearer home that
night, and they dropped their stone kedge under a

BASS'S ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 81
range of cliffs more regular, but less high, than those
near Hat Hill. At ten o'clock, the wind, which had
been unsettled and driving electric clouds in all direc
tions, burst out in a gale from the south. The intrepid
navigators got up their anchor, and ran before it. In
a very short time the waves began to break. The
little bark was now in extreme danger. The night was
dark, and the shade was increased by the cliffs which
overhung their boat. Their course was taking them,
perhaps, to new dangers, and the heavy, roaring surf
which beat against the cliffs told them of their terrible
fate if they attempted to look for shelter on shore.
Mr. Bass kept the sheet of the sail in his hand, drawing
in a few inches occasionally when he saw a particularly
heavy sea following. Flinders was steering with an
oar, and we can well believe what he tells us, that it
required the utmost exertion and care to prevent the
boat broaching to. This, he adds, w-ould have sent
them to the bottom in an instant. The task of the boy
in baling was no easy one now, for every wave sent a
fine portion of its foam over their gunwale. It was
in the midst of such dangers as these that the Tom
Thumb reached Sydney in safety. It had not done
much on this expedition, except to teach the colonists
what a treasure they possessed in the indefatigable
courage and zeal for exploration of Messrs. Bass and
Flinders. Flinders was very busy with his duties after return
ing, and as Bass could not bear inaction, he started soon
after his return with his two companions to explore the
Blue Mountains. It has not exactly been ascertained how
far he penetrated on this expedition ; but he said he had
ascended a very high hill, and from its summit had seen
another range about forty miles distant, which appeared
to extend north and south. This seemed quite impas
sable, and he therefore returned. In doing so he dis
covered the River Grose . About this time, also, Governor
Hunter made an expedition along the course of the
Nepean River ; he discovered Mount Hunter, and the
country immediately adjoining. Flinders, meanwhile,
was occupied in a voyage to Furneaux's Islands.
vol. I. Q-

82 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
In September, 1797, a small colonial vessel was
carried off by convicts, and the search that was made
for them led to some further discoveries upon the coast.
Lieutenant Shortland was one of those sent after the run
aways in an open boat. In returning, unsuccessful, he
discovered a new port, named Port Hunter. It contained
abundance of coal of excellent quality, quite accessible
to the shipping.
Bass's name had meanwhile become so celebrated,
that he could memorialize the Government for assistance
with some chance of success ; besides he had shown how
very little assistance he required, and, therefore, it
would be very unlikely that such modest requests as his
would be refused. He asked for a whale-boat, and to
be allowed to take as many volunteers as he could get
for his crew from the King's ships. This was granted.
He had no difficulty in finding eight men as a crew, and
provisions for six weeks were very readily supplied.
On the 3rd December he started.
As he sailed to the southward he clearly perceived
that there was no chance of finding a large river until
the line ofthe Blue Mountains had terminated. There
seemed too a considerable probability that they would
end before the coast trended to the south-west, because
the more they ran to the southward the nearer they
approached the coast line. At a point, named afterwards
Point Bass, they seemed to terminate the base of the
southern extremity of the chain he saw extended in a
south-westerly direction, and afterwards appeared to turn
north-westward again. Close under Point Bass there
was a beautiful and spacious bay, surrounded by
picturesque hills, and supplied by a fine river which ran
into it. This bay was unfortunately found too shallow
to be of much value, and was called, in consequence,
Shoal Haven. After passing this bay, and giving it
such examination as his means afforded, he discovered in
succession three others : Barmouth, Jervis, and Two
fold Bays. The latter he did not examine, for the coast
now seemed to trend to the south-west, and he was
burning to decide the great question whether or not
Tasmania was united to Australia.

BASS'S STRAITS DISCOVERED. 83
The coast trended to the south-west, as just observed,
and it no longer bore the high and lofty character of the
eastern side. When Cook had passed along the same
part, his distance from the land, and the height of his
vessel above the water, enabled him to discern something
beyond the arid line of sandhills which backed the beach.
But to the crew of the whale-boat nothing was on view
but the sand, and the heavy surf which beat upon it. Still
they kept on. The weather was extremely rough, and
there was not a chance of shelter upon that shore, but
there was an open sea before them, and every heavy roller
which came from the west sent a thrill of pleasure
through Mr. Bass, for he knew that the straits which
bear his name were discovered. At last, higher land
became visible ; there was a fine promontory jutting
from the coast, which received the name of Furneaux' s
Land. A search was immediately made for a convenient
place to land, and while they beat backwards and for
wards, scrutinizing each inlet, they observed men hailing
them from the shore. They were not natives, for they
were clothed ; and as the boat neared them they were
seen to be in the most emaciated condition. These were
the convicts which had escaped with the boat from Port
Jackson ; they had intended to proceed to a wreck upon
Furneaux's Islands, where they hoped to find sufficient
plunder to support them for a while, and enable them to
decide upon their further course. But they were un
successful in finding the wreck, and while they searched
their provisions failed. A few of them made some ex
cuse to land, and while the majority of their companions
were ashore, made off with the boat and provisions.
Ever since that time the men Bass found had eked out
their miserable existence upon shellfish and sea-weeds,
and some of their number had died, or were on the
point of death. Bass, unfortunately, could do nothing
to relieve them ; he had overstaid his own ^ time
already, and there was little enough4eft of his provisions
to carry the crew back to Sydney. vHe, however, took
two sick ones into his boat, gave the others what he could,
and told them to follow the coast line until he could
send them assistance. I have not been able to learn
g 2

84 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
whether they were ever heard of subsequently, and as
no further mention is made of them in any history of
New South Wales, I presume they all perished.
Bass did not give a very favourable account of the
country he had seen to the southward from Furneaux's
Land, or as it has since been named Wilson's Promontory ;
he proceeded a little further westward, and discovered
the fine harbour of Western Port ; but the time and pro
visions at his disposal did not enable him to examine it
closely. He then returned to Sydney, without, it is
true, settling the question whether or no Tasmania was
separated from Australia, but making sufficient observa
tions to render it nearly certain that it was.
In consequence of Mr. Bass's report, a small decked
vessel, named the Norfolk, was put under his command,
in conjunction with Flinders, and they were directed to
proceed to the south coast, and finish the exploration
which had been begun in the whale-boat. The Norfolk
sailed on the 7th October, and on the 11th anchored at
Twofold Bay, which had been very imperfectly ex
amined by Bass. They found the bay situate at the
southern end of a chain of rounded hills which lie imme
diately behind it, and rose into high and rocky peaks ;
the shore was broken in a picturesque manner ; there
were little strips of beach broken up by steep cliff heads,
and from them generally gullies arose which ran up
into the hills as deep, dark green glens. These valleys
seemed to be very fertile to our explorers, who now no
longer straitened for room in a Tom Thumb, nor
relying for their safety on one whale-boat, could luxu
riate in extending their examinations of the surrounding
country as much as they pleased. But beyond the
valleys there was very little available land visible : the
ground was much too stony to be good, especially on the
higher parts ; but it made up for its want of fertility by
being picturesque. Both hills and vales were covered
with fine trees and dense brushwood. In the south-west
corner of the bay was a little inlet, which widened out
and lay at the back of the beach like a lagoon. There
the chain of hills too swept back some little distance,
leaving an amphitheatre of fine grassy land, some eight

FLINDERS AND BASS SAIL ROUND TASMANIA. 85
miles long, through which the inlet took a serpentine
course. It terminated at last in marshes and lagoons,
but the scenery even here was singularly beautiful
around it, as seen from the neigbouring heights. The
lagoons were salt, and directly the ascent of the moun
tain was commenced, the land became at first sandy, and
then extremely stony and barren.
Leaving Twofold Bay, the sloop proceeded to the
southward. On the 17th she reached a group of islands
which must have been passed by Furneaux ; they are
now known as Kent's Islands, and consist of seven or
eight low islets of granite covered with a dwarfish
brushwood and diminutive trees. Their appearance
from the sea is far from prepossessing. Not even sand
covers the barren slopes of pink granite, which from a
distance look like the stony slopes of irregular pyra
mids ; the trees are few in number, and their dwarfed
stature or deformed growth is quite in keeping with the
dusty hue of their foliage.
Having passed Kent's Group, standing to the south
ward, the next morning Furneaux's Islands were in
sight, and they rested that day at Preservation Island,
which is one of them. Mr. Bass's next landing was
on the southern end of Cape Barren Island — which
was indeed barren ; but it was, he remarks, very singular
that in a place where food seemed to be scarce, the
island should be thickly inhabited by a small brush kan
garoo, and a new quadruped named the wombat, both
of which are grass-eaters.
On the 4th November Tasmania was sighted, the
north side, it should be remembered, which had never
been seen before. It was a cape which was before them,
the last and lowest part of a range which ran up from
the coast, to join a lofty chain of high mountains and
seemed to extend far inland. The scenery was bold
and picturesque, and had the usual characteristics of fine
gloomy forests, spread out like a sable garment on the
slopes of the hills. It was not until the afternoon that
anything like an opening could be seen ; they moved
forward to examine it. It penetrated deeply into the
shore, so they sailed on. Hills soon enclosed them on

86 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
every side, and brought them into close contact with
slopes of those that were green and fertile. Soon the
sloop was hurried on by the influence of a rising tide,
and just as she was advancing into the harbour which
lay before her, the water shoaled suddenly — and she
struck. Fortunately the flood-tide soon dragged her
across the bar, and she floated over into a splendid har
bour ; it was almost a complete basin. The shores were
broken into points and projections, that looked like sub
divisions of the main stream, and all were clothed with
a beautiful and fresh verdure. The sun was down when
they entered the bay, but the dusky twilight enabled
them to anchor in perfect safety, and enjoy the beauty
of the scene.
The fine harbour, and the river in which it was
found to bend, were named Port Dalrymple, and the
River Tamar. When the morning broke, the explorers
were able to form a good idea how the basin was situ
ate. It was the lowest part of a valley, lying between
two fine chains of hills, which descended to the coast
from piles of mountains lying further inland, whose ir
regular outline could only be dimly discerned. The
valley varied very much in width ; at times it joined a
spacious and broad amphitheatre ; or again, the moun
tains threw out promontories from their sides, wliich
diminished the width to a mere gorge : thus the Tamar
was found to be more like a chain of lakes than a river,
but all the more picturesque and placid in its long
reaches in consequence. Of the two chains of hills,
verdant and well wooded as they were, one terminated
in a point in the bay, the other came down to the sea
five or six miles behind it on the west side. Thus the
ends of the chains would be seen from the entrance,
rising like swelling buttresses against the distant blue
heads of the back mountains which rose over them in
clusters. Twelve miles to the west of the port, the back
land was high and jagged, showing spaces amid its forests
here and there, and displaying hard, barren surfaces of
granite rock. The country around was good, especially in
the valley at the head of the stream ; but at some distance
further it became stony, and somewhat thickly wooded.

FLINDERS AND BASS SAIL ROUND TASMANIA. 87
The aspect ofthe same locality is now somewhat
different, as the site of the town of Launceston. The
Tamar divides into two branches — the north and south
east. ^ The city stands at the confluence of the two, at
the side of a rough bold outline of rock, along which
there is a* gorge for the river to flow down. From this
height one of the branch streamlets of the river appears
like a lake, and the rock, dense forest, and foaming
waters around, make a scene unequalled in all Aus
tralia. On the 20th November, the Norfolk left Port Dal
rymple, and proceeded to the westward, but the wind
changing, they were driven back to Furneaux's Islands
until the 3rd December. Their progress was slow, and,
unavoidably, at too great a distance from the shore to
form any just idea of the country ; but what was seen
of it was high and mountainous ; the mountains formed
into hummocks and low peaks, to which a few shapeless
knolls added a singular appearance. The weather be
came, however, much clearer as they advanced, showing
the shore to be rocky and wooded, down even to the
water's edge. All that was visible inland was a high
peaked mountain like a volcano, and a very singular
table-land which lay beyond it to the westward. The
promontory of the shore off this was named Table
Cape. The important question of the straits was not quite
decided, as long as land was still to be found to the west
ward, and, therefore, appearances were now watched
with no ordinary degree of interest. At noon, on the
4th, the furthest land to be seen to the west was a small
flat-topped island, which was found to be connected
with the mainland, and called Circular Head, and a near
projection, of jagged appearance, Rocky Cape. Beyond
this point there was nothing like mainland to be seen,
but a long heavy swell came from the south-west, such
as they had not been accustomed to before. It broke
heavily upon a small reef lying off the point, and
although it was likely to prove troublesome and dan
gerous, it was hailed with joy and congratulations.
There could be no doubt about the truth now : they

88 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
had discovered a passage to the Southern Ocean, be
tween Australia and Tasmania.
A cluster of islands at this point was named Hunter's
Isles. Mr. Bass had landed on them, and returned with
a boat-load of seals and albatrosses. He had been
obliged to fight his way up the cliffs of the island amid
seals who made no very great resistance, but were reluc
tant to move out of the way ; but when he reached the
top, the fighting was no joke : the albatrosses were sitting
upon their nests, and, therefore, did their best to protect
their young. They were so numerous, that it was almost
impossible to walk upon the ground without treading
upon them ; but unless they attempted forcibly to re
move them, they only snapped their bills at the passers-
by. The species of albatross was white on the neck and
breast, but partly brown on the back and wings. It
was smaller than the great albatross of the South Sea.
The seals were about the usual size, and bore a reddish
fur, much poorer in quality than that taken from the
seals of Furneaux's Islands.
The extreme north-west cape of Tasmania was
found to be a steep head ; and from its bold and for
bidding character, the huge surfs which broke upon it,
and the mists by which it was always surrounded, it
was called Cape Grim. The principal mountain visi
ble in the interior, behind the cape, was called after the
vessel, .as a,< memorial of the part she had taken in
discovering this extreme region of Tasmania. The
shore from Cape Grim to the southward consisted of
black cliffs, at first high and unapproachable, but they
gradually became lower and lower until they ended
in a sandy beach which fronted the wooded inland
like a rampart. This low description of land continued
as the Norfolk sailed along, showing no break or inlet
in the coast line, nor any prominent object in shore.
Two mountains only were seen on the 11th December,
and as these were the first signs of land seen by Tas
man, they were named Mounts Zeehaan and Heems-
kirk, after his two ships. The crew of the Norfolk had
no object now but to get round to the other side of the
island to make further observations. There was no

FLINDERS AND BASS SAIL ROUND TASMANIA. 89
inlet of any kind upon the west side, and even if there
had been, it had been many times visited before, so that
mere curiosity was not thought a sufficient cause to
keep the small sloop close upon a lee shore.
On the morning of the 12th they saw the tops of
the mountains which Tasman had erroneously named
De Witt's Isles, as he was too far off to distinguish the
connecting land. Flinders named the highest of them
Mount De Witt. After passing several places of
smaller note, the Norfolk entered Headsman's Cove, a
little inlet at the mouth of the Derwent. Beyond this
the crew proceeded in the boat, imagining that one
tide would enable them to reach its source. Scenes of
surpassing beauty struck their gaze at every fresh bend
of the river. On either side were gentle grassy slopes,
slightly timbered with graceful acacias, and occasion
ally embellished with splendid flowery shrubs. Behind
these park-like lawns rose gloomy forests, swelling into
mountains here and there, and sending up a grey peak
of craggy stone into the clear blue air. The river was
fresh and placid, containing abundance of fish ; and
what surprised the explorers most was, that amid all
this abundance and charming beauty, combined with
utility, they saw no signs that it was made use of. It
was, in fact, a paradise in solitude.
On the 3rd January the Norfolk left the Derwent,
and after sailing along a coast already well described,
they reached Sydney on the 12th of the same month.
After mentioning the discovery of the strait between
Australia and Tasmania, the latter place will not come
again within the scope of this work, except presently
in connection with its first settlement. In parting with
it, the perusal of Colonel Collins's observations on the
south coast are worthy of consideration, to contrast
with what has been just narrated about the north side.
It should be remembered, too, that it is the barrier which
saves the south-eastern extremity of Australia from the
wasting of the Southern Ocean. Its form, therefore, has
materially influenced our southern geography, and its
geology probably supplies many lost clues to the larger
continent. Like Terra del Fuego, says Colonel Collins,

90 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the extremity of Yan Diemen's Land presents a rugged
and determined front to the icy regions of the south
pole ; and, like it, seems once to have extended further
south than it does at present. To a very remarkable
elevation is added an irregularity of form which justly
entitles it to rank among the foremost of the grand
and wildly magnificent scenes of nature. It abounds
with peaks and ridges, gaps and fissures, that not only
disdain the smallest uniformity of figure, but are ever
changing shape as the point of view shifts. Beneath
this strange confusion, the western part of this waving
coast-line observes a regularity quite as remarkable as
the wild disorder which prevails below. Lofty ridges
of mainland are bounded by tremendous cliffs, which
project two to four miles into the sea ; and these occur
in great regularity about every two and a half miles.
We now take leave of Tasmania. One of the great
problems of Australia was settled ; and when it was
known to be an island, the voyage to Sydney from
England was very much shortened. It should be
mentioned, however, that Bass and Flinders put to
proof only what others had guessed. Both Cook and
D'Entrecasteaux thought there was a strait between,
but in the latter case the surmise was not published
until long after the discovery was made.

91

CHAPTER V.
Flinders' explorations in Moreton Bay— Harvey's Bay— Grant's discoveries in
the Lady Nelson— Mount Gambier and Mount Schanck— Cape Northum
berland—Cape Bridgewater — Portland Bay — Cape Otway — Islands in
Bass's Straits — Hunter's River.
Since the time of Cook, nothing had been done to
survey the north part of the east .coast. Sydney ships
had gone near parts of it in many places, and some
thing of the dangerous navigation of the coral reefs
was already known, but of the actual coast line next to
nothing. It should be remembered that Cook did not
see more than half of it, if he saw so much. During
the night he continued on his course, and in conse
quence saw nothing, and during the day was obliged
very frequently to stand off the shore. It became very
necessary, therefore, to follow up his discoveries.
The great question at that time was to find the
opening of some large river on the east coast, which
would give a navigable highway to the interior. Two
ways had been noticed by Cook, which seemed to those
who now pondered over his voyages and map to promise
some hope of success : these were Harvey's Bay and
Glass House Bay ; the former of which was thought to
be the most promising opening, but which, in reality ,was
no more than the strait which separated an island from
the mainland.
When Flinders returned from Tasmania, he was not
immediately wanted for service on board the Reliance,
and he memorialized the Government to be allowed to
explore northward. This request was eagerly complied
with ; there was no man in all Australia who had
proved himself so fit for the business of an explorer,

92 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
and there was none in whom the Government had more
confidence. The sloop Norfolk was again put into com
mission, and the command given to Flinders, with the
same crew, and in addition the nephew of Flinders.
Mr. Bass, however, did not form one of the party, he
had quitted the station soon after the return from
Tasmania to return to England. He went as the mate
of a trading vessel, and was thereafter lost sight of.
His history was rather a sad one. The only child of a
widowed mother, he had gone to sea, in a vessel of his
own — a mode of life for which he had always shown an
unconquerable passion, although he had taken his
diploma as a surgeon with honour. His vessel was lost,
and he joined the navy. He never returned home.
The last news his mother and wife received of him was
that he was leaving China, and would be back in three
months. All tidings of him were then lost ; his wife
and mother died soon after, and it does not appear that
either he or they ever received any reward for his
immense services to Australia.*
On the 8th July, 1799, Flinders was despatched
again. Nothing very remarkable was observed in the first
part of his journey. The land which had not been seen
by Cook was low, and covered with brush down to the
cliffs on the coast, which were of very moderate elevation.
Above them the land rose very gradually, ridge over
ridge, to a moderate height. The aspect was agree
able, but neither very fertile nor beautiful, for the trees
were small, and the brushwood evidently dense.
Flinders had only received leave of absence for six
weeks, which would hardly have been sufficient for all
he wanted to do, but even this moderate space was
likely to be further curtailed, from the crazy structure
of the little bark. On the morning of the 10th, it
was found that the cutter had sprung a leak, which
admitted so much water that one pump was kept con
stantly going. But he was determined to keep the
vessel on her course. He passed Cook's Solitary Islands,
but made no observations upon them, except that they
* Sydney's Three Colonies of Australia.

EXPLORATIONS IN MORETON BAY. 93
should have been called The Miserables. A little beyond
them he saw an opening, which he gladly entered,
hoping to find a river without going so far as Moreton
Bay. It was a shallow inlet, of little or no value for
any purpose, and was named Shoal Bay.
On the 15th, they were thirteen miles distant from
Cape Byron, with Mount Warning just appearing over
it. When they had cleared the reef at Point Danger,
they steered west for a large open space where no land
was visible ; this was Moreton Bay. Passing between
these breakers and Point Lookout, they got ground in
twenty fathoms water. As they drew nearer there
seemed to be a very large extent of water within the
opening, but the country towards the sea was as sterile,
wretched, and sandy as could well be imagined. At
dusk, Cape Moreton was rounded, and they got into
Glass House Bay. There they anchored, intending, if
possible, to repair the leak.
They landed next morning. They had brought a
native with them from Sydney, who commenced at once
to parley with some savages, who came down upon the
beach to meet them, carrying their fishing nets. They
seemed very peaceable at first, and accepted some pre
sents. But, before the first interview was ended, they
became troublesome, and the whites, to avoid a conflict,
shoved off their boat from the shore ; they were not,
however, suffered to depart so easily. While the rest of
the natives looked applaudingly on, one ran into the
water and discharged a spear, which narrowly missed
the retreating boat. Flinders immediately wounded the
savage, and a seaman in the boat fired among the crowd
and wounded another. It was certainly an extreme
course to take for so slight an offence, but Flinders said
that he wanted to repair his ship there ; as the lives of
the party would be at the mercy of the savages, it was
necessary to make them fear him.
From the low sandy point where this affair hap
pened, and which was named Point Skirmish, they pro
ceeded up the opening, which proved to be the river
leading up to Glass House Peaks. These peaks seemed
to stand on low, flat ground, considerably within the

94 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
mountains, and were thought to be volcanic, because
Flinders remarks that the ground all about was covered
with pumice. Five or six native huts were found
standing near each other; these were different from
those in Sydney, and far better and more elaborate in
their structure. They resembled a covered archway,
rounded at the far end.
At daylight, in the morning of Wednesday, the 17th,
the sloop was got under weigh, and anchored about a
mile and a half from a point with red cliffs. The rocks
were of stone, strongly impregnated with iron, with
some small pieces of quartz and granite scattered about
the shore. Beyond this, as they advanced up the bay,
they passed four islands, and then they were fairly in
the stream ; which was named Pumice Stone River.
On the following morning Flinders took his boat
up the river ; his intention was to visit the Glass
Houses, for he saw very well that the stream would
terminate among them. As he went up, he noticed a
round mount with sloping sides, at no great distance
from him, or at least nearer than the higher hills, and
he left his boat and walked towards it. After a fa
tiguing walk of nine miles, he reached the summit. The
ascent was very difficult. The mount was a pile of
stones of all sizes, with good soil in patches and crevices,
upon which a dense growth of tussack grass grew.
But the trees were good ; they were tall and straight and
of thin growth, so as to give' the hill a pleasant, shady
appearance. From this hill the view of the bay and
the neighbouring country was very extensive ; the
uppermost part of the former seemed to terminate in a
winding river, along the banks of which there were
columns of smoke in many places. The lower part of
country near the sea was sandy and arid, but in the far
distance to the eastward rose a pile of irregular moun
tains, too distant to show aught but their outlines in the
thin, blue haze. A nearer view of the Glass Houses
showed Flinders that he was mistaken in supposing
them to be volcanic ; on the contrary, the stone of most
of the rocks he saw was a sandstone often very much
stained with the ferruginous oxide. Altogether the

HERVEY'S BAY. 95
Norfolk remained fifteen days in Glass House Bay,
which was found to be so full of shoals that Flinders
could not, on his return, recommend it as an harbour.
The next place of destination was Hervey's Bay,
which the Norfolk reached in two days, and which cer
tainly seemed a very promising opening for a river.
Flinders sailed all round it, however, and could discover
none. On the contrary, the place seemed most unlikely
for anything of that kind. The coast was low and
shallow ; and as for the quality of the land, it was about
the most sterile and sandy that he had ever explored.
From thence Flinders returned to Sydney.
It should be remembered that though this expedition
resulted in nothing important, it commenced discoveries
which afterwards became of great service. For instance,
Shoal Bay was found afterwards to be the mouth of the
Clarence River, one of the most important on the eastern
coast, and causing, by its very size and the quantity
of earth it annually brings down, the shallowness of the
bay which Flinders examined in so very cursory a man
ner. On the bar, the water of the stream is so shallow,
and the windings of the channel so carefully concealed
by mangroves, that it is no wonder at all that Flinders
could not perceive it. It is strange, however, that he
came to miss in his hurry the very features he had come
to seek, and which in this instance, and in the case of
the Brisbane River Bay, lay almost within his grasp, or
very close to the places to which his explorations ex
tended. Singularly enough, in his report he congratu
lated the governor at ascertaining as a fact, that no
river of importance intersected the coast between the
29th and 34th parallels of south latitude. Nothing
more was done just then either with the Norfolk or its
discoveries, and Flinders returned to the Reliance, to
perform his usual duties as midshipman.
In September of this same year, the governor made
some few discoveries to the north of Sydney. There
were some cattle which had escaped from the Govern
ment herds, running wild in the bush. They formed
a drove which occupied a particular part of the most
grassy country, then known as Cowpasture Plains. In

96 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
making an excursion to the latter, the governor crossed
the Nepean much further to the northward than he had
ever done before. In this direction he and his party
traversed a new tract of country, which was beautiful for
its scenery, and especially adapted for pasturage _ and
cultivation. Beyond this they again crossed the river,
passing through mountainous country, but of excellent
quality, and then leading to Sydney over level, well-
grassed, and well-watered soil.
In January, 1800, a brig, named the Lady Nelson,
under the command of Lieutenant Grant, was sent out
from England to Australia, to act as a surveying ship,
under the direction of the governor of the colony. She
was only 60 tons burthen, but she was what was then
termed a model ship. She was built expressly for the
purpose of trying the excellence of sliding keels, from
which great advantages were expected by the inventor,
Captain Schanck. It seemed a most hazardous under
taking in those days for so small a vessel to undertake
so long a voyage, and many were the direful prophe
cies and sad forebodings among naval officers as to the
result. Times have changed considerably since then.
It is not so very long since the colonists saw the arrival
from England of a small cutter of only five tons
burthen, and she had accomplished the trip in the
astonishing time of sixty-five days.
The Lady Nelson was directed to try the passage
through Bass's Straits, hitherto unattempted by any
vessel from home. It will scarcely be believed, how
ever, that she was more than eleven months before she
arrived off the coast of Australia. Of course, there
were stoppages, for as much as three months, at the
Cape ; but even from the latter place the ship was
two months getting to the 139th meridian, in latitude
about 38°.
On the 3rd December, land was seen. It at first
appeared like two islands, but as the vessel neared, two
capes were discovered, with a low line of mainland
lying behind them ; the first was called Cape Northum
berland. It has since 1800 had a sad reputation in Aus
tralia. It is a prominent part of the coast, jutting

MOUNT GAMBIER AND MOUNT SCHANCK. 97
far into the sea, and vessels making for Bass's Straits
were very apt to come upon it. Worst of all, there is
a long reef of rocks lying beyond it, making the danger
a very great one, for the land within is low and not
easily seen. Many vessels have been wrecked upon it,
and the lonely beach is strewn for miles with the sad
memorials of life and property whose destruction it has
caused. A lighthouse now exists upon the cape.
Captain Grant could see but little of an inviting
character on the shore before him. The land was
barren and sandy, not seeming to support much vege
tation ; and though nearly seventy years have elapsed
since then, and colonization has caused numerous habita
tions near the place, it is still a lonely and desolate spot.
At one time a ship was dashed to pieces upon the reef,
and so deserted was the beach that when the wreck was
discovered, a few bones were all that remained of the
crew. Even now that there is a little seaport (Port
McDonnell), close inside the cape, a lighthouse on it, and
very thriving towns within twenty miles, the coast
forms a scene of utter loneliness and sterility. But a
little way inland a wonderful change takes place. The
country grows green and is luxuriantly grassed. Fine tall
trees succeed, and the soil becomes as rich as that of any
country in the world. Captain Grant guessed this, for
he says he saw, further inland, two high mountains.
The nearer appeared to him like a table mountain, and
the further one like a fine isolated peak ; both he said
were well wooded, and seemed to show a very fertile
country inland. He called the first Mount Schanck,
after Admiral Schanck, the inventor of the sliding keels,
and the founder of the Society for Promoting Naval
Architecture. The further one was called after Admiral
Lord Gambier, who commanded the fleet at the battle
of Copenhagen. Both these mountains are volcanic.
They belong to a chain of extinct volcanoes, which ex
tends eastward as far as Port Phillip, giving rise to the
richest soil imaginable, and some of the finest scenery
upon this coast.
The shore to the eastward of Cape Northumberland
was of sandy character, but not so low as such coasts
VOL. I. H

98 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
usually are. On the contrary, the sand rose up in hills
and hummocks very high above the sea level, and far
back from the surf, which was really terrible upon that
shore. Beyond the sand hummocks densely wooded
hills rose still higher, and seemed, if neither pic
turesque nor fertile, at least not barren. But the whole
scene was one of savage gloom. There was in front the
white ridge of beach sand studded here and there with
patches of rushes, which ought to have been green, but
which looked black at a distance. Above these was the
drifting sand, standing out in huge, unspotted yellow
masses, and seeming more gloomy from its light unvary
ing colour ; last of all, the wooded hills, thick, black,
and dark, and the whole so lonely, so. mysterious, and
with even the stillness of death, but for the pealing roar
of the surf which ever beat and boomed along the
shore. But if the view from the sea is desolate, the view
inland is far worse. The only road which now runs
along the coast lies between the yellow sand hummocks
and the black woods. These are sand-dunes. Every
year they advance more and more towards the hills.
The road is over-drifted ; large trees are buried ;
valleys are filled up, and the sand is yearly rising
higher and higher. I have never beheld a more
desolate scene than from the top of one of these sand
hummocks — one looks down over a slope of about two
miles of heaving billows of yellow sand. Here and
there a break or a hollow, with rushes growing in
small tufts, or a peak of sand rising like a ruin amid
ruins. The sea beyond is very dark in colour, pro
bably from contrast and from the whiteness of the
surf, which extends fully half a mile.
Captain Grant could see a part of all this, and he
could guess a great deal more as he sailed along. It
was fortunate that there was not much of this kind of
beach. It was broken in front of him by a fine cape,
which stretched out into the sea, and seemed to defy
the swell of the Southern Ocean. This was named
Cape Bridgewater. It was not high, nor very rocky.
It seemed formed of low cliffs of sandstone, near the

PORTLAND BAY. 99
water, and above was clothed by a thick forest. About
fifteen miles beyond this there was another cape, and
between them both a very deep bay.
At this time the weather was gloomy, dark, and
sultry. There were low, moist-looking clouds lying
heavily about the horizon, and a long, rolling swell
came along the sea. There was no wind. The Lady
Nelson could not be brought into the bay except by
towing, and as the .captain was anxious to land, for the
appearance of the shore was improved, he thought
that good anchorage might be found. He rowed in for
about five miles, but found the water still so deep that
he returned to the ship. But he had seen the shore.
It was, apparently, well grassed ; and though the rocks
were of a light colour above, below they were black and
rugged. This circumstance has been since explained.
The formation is a shelly limestone, lying on sub
marine trap-rock or lava. Beyond the second cape
there was another, and some rocks (the Laurence
Rocks), and then the land extended north as far as the
eye could reach. Near the last cape (Cape Grant),
the shore was high and moderately wooded. The
cliffs, at first, were red and earthy ; but as they went
northward they became lower, until they again sprang
up into tall bluffs of rocks, exactly like chalk at a dis
tance. These latter did not continue long. The rest
of the coast was low, and well wooded, stretching up
in slopes to higher land further in shore. When
Grant saw it, there was much smoke upon the hill,
showing that the land was inhabited. It was called
Portland Bay.
Grant did not lose much time in examining how far
it went inland, but pressed on to the eastward. Had
he kept close in he would have found it very low,
sandy, and rocky ; with grassy patches here and there ;
but he would have found no shelter there, nor any
thing which could be called an important discovery.
He, however, passed one island about twelve miles off
the shore. ,v It was high and rocky, and about a mile
long. He called it Lady Julia Percy's Island, a com
pliment to the Northumberland family, of which all
v h 2

100 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
subsequent inhabitants and geographers must feel the
inconvenience. To the east of this bay was a high and bold cape.
Its shores appeared inaccessible, but _ the land was
picturesque and beautiful, abounding in wood, thick
groves, and large trees. Indeed, the scene which it
presents from the sea gives no idea of the terrible
nature of the forests upon it. The cape is a peninsula,
lying to the south of the great basaltic tract of
Western Yictoria. It consists of high ranges, dense
scrubs, and enormous timber, and a vegetation quite
tropical. There is, probably, no part of Australia
which has always attracted so much interest as this
cape. The difficulty of penetrating its forests, and the
rumours which have always existed as to its mineral
richness, have given it an air of importance and
mystery which few other places possess.
Beyond Cape Otway, Captain Grant saw another
point of land under which he fancied he could find
shelter. It was rather a high cape, with a clump of
trees upon its top, looking just if they had been planted
there ; but the coast was too dangerous for him to
land upon. It was a sandy beach, with rocks inter
spersed here and there upon it ; but there was too
much surf for a boat. This was the more tantalizing
as the coast was very beautiful ; consisting nearly of
valleys and downs, with streams of water meandering
through them. - The crew of the Lady Nelson all
agreed that the seenery was exactly like that of the
Isle of Wight, " and therefore," says Captain Grant, " I
called it after Captain Wight, son-in-law of Captain
Schanck, the inventor of the sliding keels." The reason
is rather a curious one. Are we to believe that Captain
Wight was like the island ? The history of the geogra
phical nomenclature of Australia would make a curious
appendix to the history of discovery.
The land now trended very much to the northward,
and was high, bold, and well wooded. It was evident
that it formed a deep bay, which it would have been
well worth Grant's while to have examined. This,
however he did not feel inclined to do, so he steered

ISLANDS IN BASS'S STRAITS. 101
eastward to reach the south-east side of it. That night
he sailed sixty miles, and next morning no land was
visible except that he had just left, which was dimly
visible in the far distance. But about eight o'clock the
land began to appear again to the eastward. This was
Wilson's Promontory, or the Furneaux's Land, which
had been first discovered by Mr. George Bass. It will
be seen, by consulting the map, that Captain Grant
had, by stretching across the bay, missed the chance of
discovering Port Phillip, which lies at the head of it.
The large indentation he had sailed across was 120
miles wide, and there were very few explorers who,
under similar circumstances, would not have been
anxious to examine every foot of the coast, or have suf
fered any inconvenience rather than have left it undone.
An hour after sighting Wilson's Promontory, they
saw several islands. The mainland seemed to have an
opening in it to the northward, and the brig was
steered for it. It turned out to be another bay, with
low land round it. The northernmost cape was named
Cape Liptrap. The mainland now seemed extending
a considerable way to the southward, with several
islands off it. Abreast of the ship it appeared as if no
great distance away, so the boats were got out and they
made towards the bay. They pulled in shore, steering
for the largest of some islands lying on the west side of
Cape Liptrap. Grant meant to have landed and
planted some seeds he had with him. The distance
was, however, much greater than he imagined, and by
the time he had lost sight of his ship, he seemed as far
from the shore as ever. At last, he came near the
beach, and then there was another disappointment — the
surf was too heavy to think of landing, and he there
fore, with much regret, had to abandon this his best
effort to explore a little portion of the coast. He
certainly made one more attempt to land, on a rock
near Wilson's Promontory, but this, like all the other
attempts, was a failure.
The Lady Nelson made some other discoveries in
Bass's Straits, with reference to the number and shape
of the islands which she passed.; but her explorations

102 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
virtually terminated- at Wilson's Promontory, where
she came upon the discoveries of Mr. G. Bass. When
she arrived in Sydney, the tidings of what had been
done by so small a ship, in such dangerous seas,
induced the Government to put her again on com
mission at once, and her first duty, as a surveying ship,
was to go back to Western Port, to survey that
harbour. She entered the port on the 21st March, discovering
two islands just within the entrance. From the like
ness of one of them to a snapper's head, it was named
Snapper's Island. The small islands off them were
covered with seals, and were named in consequence
Seal Islands. Before they had come there they had
anchored in Jervis Bay. Seven canoes got round them,
in one of which was an old man, whose hair and beard
were perfectly white with age, and who appeared to be
treated with great respect by the tribe. The canoes
were paddled about by oval pieces of bark, and they
had two or three pegs at their prows upon which to
steady their spears. But here at first they saw no
natives at all. The first care was to search at the
head of the harbour for a stream of fresh water which
Mr. Bass had described. In going to this a very
pleasant island was discovered ; it was of gradual
ascent, well covered with trees of considerable height,
and much underwood. The soil was extremely rich,
and the prospect around delightful, so that Captain
Grant commenced a garden upon it, and called it
Churchill Island. Many seeds were planted on this
island, amongst which were some pippins. Having
buried them, Captain Grant began devoutly speculating
on the manner in which the fruit would increase, and
the tree become a very common one in South Australia ;
and he enters in his work a modest request to future
colonists, that they will always call the apple Lady
Elizabeth Percy's apple ; because, he adds, " her lady
ship's care and attention enabled me to introduce it
there." It may be satisfactory to Lady Elizabeth's
descendants, to inform them that the seeds did not
grow, or that, if they did, the apple-tree has disappeared ;

HUNTER'S RIVER. 103
and as for Lady Elizabeth Percy's apple, it is as
little known as the amiable lady herself.
The Lady Nelson remained altogether a considerable
time near Western Port, making a survey of the
land around. It was found to be very fertile, with
good grass. The trees were not very numerous, but
the underwood was extremely thick, so much so indeed
as to render a passage through it a work of immense
difficulty. The open land was very green and
luxuriant, but at the same time soft and boggy. A
good many excursions were made from time to time,
either up the course of the fresh-water stream, or along
others which were subsequently discovered. Near the
coast there was much dense forest, but beyond it they
came to a level country entirely clear of timber and
brushwood. The grass was so thick that it was found
difficult to pass through it. The plain extended as far
as they could see on one side, but on the other it was
enclosed by hills. The character of Western Port is,
however, that of a dense forest country. There are
patches here and there like those described by Captain
Grant, but the thickness of its forests and its under
wood is proverbial along the south coast of Australia.
It is here that the fern-tree reaches suc'h luxuriance and
perfection ; it is here that the tall gum-tree vies with
forest kinds of Tasmania, sometimes reaching a height
of ninety feet without a branch ; and, finally, it was
near here that Count Strzelecki was five weeks in
cutting his way for himself and his poor famished com
panions over a few miles of country.
Altogether, during this trip of the Lady Nelson, an
almost complete survey of the port was made. Two
creeks were found and explored to some extent, as just
mentioned. Another island was found on the opposite
shore, called Margaret Island, and near it were several
small creeks. After ascertaining these facts, the brig
surveyed the three bays round Wilson's Promontory,
and then returned to Sydney.
The Lady Nelson was now ordered to convey
Colonel Paterson round to Hunter's River, the stream
which has already been mentioned as containing a rich

104 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AU STRALIA.
deposit of coal upon its banks. The object of this
voyage was to make a survey of the river. Nothing
very remarkable resulted from this trip, except the
establishment of a dep6t, about forty miles from the
mouth of the stream, where the banks were thought to
be particularly fertile. On their way the party landed
at a small creek, which they traced for a considerable
distance. They thus came upon a gradual ascent,
covered with the most luxuriant grass. From this
height there was an extensive view inland. The
country was very fine, and, apparently, secure from the
inundations of the river. The hill was named Mount
Egerton. Further up the river they found two more mountains,
which enabled them to extend their view. After
passing these, they imagined that they had got behind
the Blue Mountains, though they could still see the
coast; and between them and the hills was a perfectly
level space, many miles in extent, covered with trees
and underwood, but to all appearances swampy. The
land on the south side of the river was interspersed
with lagoons covered with game ; but not for want of
natives to kill them, for there were evidently plenty
about. The boat would have gone higher up the river,
but the channel wound so much that it would have taken
days to advance a few miles. They therefore returned,
and these discoveries terminated the expedition.
As to their having got behind the Blue Mountains,
this was a fallacy. There is no break in their con
tinuity for many miles north of this river. There
occurs, however, just about this point an area or recess,
in which the chain sweeps back to meet the spur which
cuts off the Liverpool Plains from the coast country.
This is the reason why the Hunter River extends so
much further westward than any of those on the
eastern side of the range.

105

CHAPTER VI.
FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST.
Flinders' explorations in the Investigator — The Australian Bight — Fowler's,
Streaky, and Coffin's Bays — Port Lincoln — Spencer's Gulf — Mounts
Brown and Arden — Yorke's Peninsula — Kangaroo Island — Gulf St.
Vincent — Mount Lofty — Cape Jervis — Encounter Bay — Flinders and
Baudin's expedition — Lacepede, Guichen, and Rivoli Bays, Port Phillip.
We left Flinders serving as a midshipman on board
the Reliance, after his return from Moreton Bay. In
the latter end of the year 1800 that vessel returned
from the station, and Flinders found himself once more
in England. He lost no time in making known what
he had done, and very soon the charts of his discoveries
in Tasmania were published. This brought him at once
into notice, and paved the way for pushing his plans
further. Of course, such a man as Flinders could not
think of resting : he had tasted the delights of explora
tion, and with feverish anxiety he longed, to give his
life to that one pursuit alone. Fortunately, there was at
that time in England a man who could appreciate all
this, and had sufficient interest with the Admiralty to
cause them to do all that Flinders desired. This was
Sir Joseph Banks. On hearing the bold plans of the
young midshipman, and seeing how much he had done
upon small resources, and how little he required for
what he wanted to do then, Sir Joseph willingly laid
his plan before Earl Spencer, then First Lord of the
Admiralty. The plan was approved of, and laid before
the king. Poor old George III., who knew but little
about Australia, for it had sprung up into notice during
a blank in his existence, gave his assent willingly.

106 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Orders were given to purchase a ship for an expedition
to Australia, and the command was to be given to the
enterprising young navigator, who had shown himself
so zealous in the matter hitherto.
The vessel selected was of the kind recommended
by Cook for exploration purposes. She was a north
country built ship, of 340 tons burthen — not very new,
it is true, but still, it was thought, with considerable
work in her yet. Her name had been the Xenophon,
and might with propriety have been changed to
Anabasis without offending the shade of the Greek
historian ; but it was thought better, perhaps, to con
nect her more with ideas of advance than retreat, and
she was called the Investigator. She was coppered, and
repaired, and fitted for a long voyage ; and besides pro
visions, &c, had a scientific staff, comprising, among
others, Robert Brown, the celebrated — justly celebrated
— botanist ; and Westall, the equally famous land
scape painter. It may be stated at once that a more for
tunate selection for the purpose could not have been
made. Australia owes very much to both these men.
The labours of Brown upon the coast left nothing to be
desired. Of course, he could not see everything ; but
he saw so much that one is astonished to observe how
little was left for others to do. Since his time natu
ralists have had hard work to glean novelties from the
regions near which R. Brown set his foot. To Westall
the same meed of praise can be given. The classic story
of Flinders is rendered truly charming by the power
ful pencil of the artist. It is not only the number of
drawings which he made, almost giving a panorama of
the part of the land they visited, but it is the graphic
touch which seems to take at once those features which
are peculiarly its own, the want of which makes the
finest of drawing unreal, because it is not Australian,
and has not its atmosphere.
With such companions, Flinders sailed from Spit-
head on the 18th July, 1801. He called at Madeira
and the Cape ; and on the 6th December Cape Leeuwin
was seen. This was five months nearly, including
stoppages, to perform less than Australian traders do

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 107
now in ten weeks. This did not look well for the Inves
tigator at the very commencement. When Flinders got
well in with the land, he coasted slowly along it. This
part of the shore was described before, and need not be
particularized now. It was high, bold, and rocky, and
became lower as it was traced to the westward. The
vessel was taken into King George's Sound, and the
crew landed there. They could not find the record
stated to have been left by Captain Vancouver, but
there was evidence of a late visit of some Europeans,
for the trees had been recently cut down with some
sharp instrument. A survey was taken of the harbour
as well as could be, but it was so shallow in places
that the boat could not come very near to the shore.
In returning, they found an explanation of the recently
cut trees. There was a neglected garden at one side of
the channel, and close to it was a sheet of copper, bear
ing this inscription : — " August 27, 1800 : Chr. Dixson,
ship Ellegood." This was doubtless some whaling or
sealing ship which had remained there.
Finding no eligible place to refit his ship, Flinders
took her into a neighbouring inlet, named Princess
Royal Harbour. While some necessary repairs were
being made, and the astronomical observations recorded
from tents upon shore, Flinders formed a party of thir
teen officers, with two days' provisions, intending to
visit some capes he could see behind West Cape Howe.
He walked along the shore to the north-western end of
the harbour. Here were several small streams of fresh
water, but they gave no indication of any supply fur
ther inland, and their source was close at hand, in some
peaty swamps. The course for the lakes led through
swamps and thick brushwood. A native was seen
running away ; but an old man, quite unarmed, came to
them quite willingly, and accompanied them through
the woods. He wanted them to go to the eastward, but
as this was inconveniently opposite to the way they
wanted to go, they changed their course, and the old
man left them. The explorers now took the skirts of
the coast hills to avoid the brushwood ; but they had
plenty of it, even on this course, and marshes to cross

108 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
besides. At last they reached the first lake. It was a
fine piece of water, about a mile and a half long, and
received the drainage of numerous swamps near. In
coasting round it, a fine winding rivulet was reached.
They proceeded up it to the inland country, towards
some hills, and here they camped for the night. Next
morning they reached the south-western lake, and found
it to be larger than the first. Its water was brackish.
They then struck southward, and ascended the hills.
This brought them to the top of some cliffs, under which
the sea was booming and foaming from the southernly
swell. The aspect of the country was cheerless. The
soil was sandy, and if it supported any growth, it was
only the dense brush they had come through ; and there
was little or no fresh water. In returning to the ship,
Mr. Westall " knocked up," from fatigue and want of
water. Mr. Brown and three others remained with
him, while the rest ofthe party moved on for assistance ;
but this was unnecessary, as the whole party reached
the tents at midnight. This trifling incident is the
dawn of records of suffering, of which we shall see a
good deal in the course of this history.
In leaving King George's Sound and Princess Royal
Harbour, Flinders summed up a few observations, which
can be usefully given here. He remarked that the
basis of the stone was granite, which frequently showed
itself upon the surface as a smooth, bare rock ; but on
the sea-coast hills and shores of the south the granite
was generally covered with a crust of limestone. Cap
tain Vancouver mentions having found on the top of
Bald Head branches of coral protruding from the sand ;
but these, as explained by Darwin and myself,*
are due to calcareous concretions. Flinders found the
same, and fancied that they were fossil trees. The soil
of the hills was found to be very barren, though, except
near the sea-coast, generally covered with wood. The
plains were a little better, especially near the rivulet.
From King George's Sound, Flinders coasted close
to the land, in the hope of finding some new opening
* " Darwin's " Nat. Voy." Woods' " Geol. Obs. in S. Australia."

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 109
or inlet. In this he was quite disappointed. For days
he sailed along the Australian Bight (first discovered by
Nuyts, rtin 1827), each day only revealing more and
more of that fearful coast. Flinders thus described it :—
" The shore curved round here, and took a more
easterly direction ; and the bank of level land which
continued to run further along behind it, approached
yery near to the water side. Three leagues further on,
it formed cliffs, and a projecting part of them, named
Point Culver, was the furthest land in sight. Our
course along the shore was so favoured by the wind
that at seven in the evening we had passed another pro
jecting part of the cliffs, named Point Dover, distant
from the last point fifty miles.
" The elevation of these cliffs appeared to be about
500 feet, and nothing of the back country was seen
above them. In the upper part they are brown, in the-
lower part nearly white ; and the two strata, as also
the smaller, of which each is composed, are nearly
horizontal. They were thought to be calcareous, as
was the white, grey, and brown sand which the lead
brought up when the bottom was not of coral. A sur
veyor finds almost no object here to set his position by.
Each small projection presents the appearance of a steep
cape, as it opens out in sailing ; but before the ship
arrives abreast of it, it is lost in the general uniformity
of the coast. Point Culver and Point Dover are excep
tions to this general uniformity ; but it requires a ship
to be near the land before even these are distinguish
able." There was a break for a short distance in the line
of the cliffs, and smoke was seen rising from the
land behind. This break did not continue long : the
cliffs again recommenced.
" The length of these cliffs, from their second com
mencement, is 33 leagues ; and that of the level bank,
from near Cape Pasley, is no less than 145 leagues.
The height of this extraordinary bank is nearly the
same throughout, being nowhere less than 400 nor any
where more than 600 feet. In the first 20 leagues the
ragged tops of some inland mountains were seen over

110 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
it, but during the remainder of its long course the bank
was the limit of our view.
" This equality of elevation for so great an extent,
and the calcareous nature of the banks, at least in the
upper 200 feet, would bespeak it to have been the
exterior line of a vast coral reef, which is always more
elevated than the interior parts, and commonly level
with high-water mark. From the gradual subsiding of
the sea, or perhaps by a sudden convulsion of nature,
this bank may have attained its present height above
the surface ; and, however extraordinary such a change
may appear, yet, when it is recollected that branches of
coral still exist upon Bald Head, at the elevation of
400 or more feet, this supposition assumes a great pro
bability. It would further seem that the subsiding of
the waters has not been at a period very remote, since
these frail branches have yet neither been beaten down
nor mouldered away by wind or weather. If this sup
position be well founded, it may, with the fact of no
hill or other object being seen above the bank in the
great part of its course, assist in forming some conjec
ture of what may be within it, which cannot, as I judge
in such case, be other than flat sandy plains or water.
The bank may even be a narrow barrier between an
exterior and interior sea ; and much do I regret not
having formed an idea of this probability at the time,
for, notwithstanding the great difficulty and risk, I
should certainly have attempted a landing upon some
part of the coast, to ascertain a fact of. so much import
ance." This long quotation from Flinders's journal has been
given to show the extraordinary nature of this part of
the coast, and not with a view of indorsing his opinions.
I have, in another work, shown the probable nature of
these cliffs, and need not say much about them now.
They are part of an immense tertiary formation, which
is very extensively distributed in the south portions of
the Australian continent. I need not, perhaps, tell the
reader that they do not form the exterior wall of a coral
reef, as Mr. Flinders imagined. Further on, an account
will be read of a terrible overland journey along them,

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. Ill
and of the desolation of the country which they flank
as a rampart. As a remarkable coast feature, these
cliffs are unexampled in the rest of the world.
At the termination of the second range of cliffs, Flin
ders found that the coast became sandy, and trended
north-eastward for about three leagues, and thus formed
the head of the Australian Bight. A little beyond this
was Cape Nuyts,, and this was the furthest point
explored hitherto. The coast was still a sandy beach
in front, with the land rising from thence for three or
four miles to a moderate elevation.. It was wooded, but
apparently very sandy.
Just beyond Cape Nuyts, a bay was found, named
Fowler's Bay, after the first lieutenant of the Investi
gator. Some of the crew landed there, and the cliffs and
rocks were found to be calcareous. There was no tim
ber, and no fresh water ; and yet the country bore many
traces of being much frequented by natives. About
this bay and Cape Nuyts many islands were found,
which took some considerable time to survey. They
need delay us but little, however. Flinders landed
upon some, and found the basis to consist of granite.
Many curious animals and plants were found upon them,
but their other points of interest were but few.
After Fowler's Bay, Smoky Bay, Streaky Bay,
Anxious Bay, and Coffin's Bay were discovered — the
latter after Sir Isaac Coffin, the commissioner who had
fitted out the Investigator ; and Streaky Bay from the
singular streaks in the water where the vessel anchored.
There was absolutely nothing of interest in connection
with any one of these bays : the whole coast there
abouts was described as moderately high, with little
timber, rocky, and barren. The rocks were generally
granite, covered with white limestone, of the same for
mation as that found in the Australian Bight. The
coast trended generally in a south-east direction as far as
Coffin's Bay, where it turned back, and ended in a long
promontory, named Point Sir Isaac. The most promi
nent capes on this uninteresting and monotonous coast
were named Point Drummond, Cape Radstock, and
Point Bell, after various persons connected with fitting

112 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
out this expedition. A conspicuous mountain, visible
inland, was named Mount Greenly.
On the evening of the 16th of February, Point Sir
Isaac was passed, and some islands visible in the south
west obtained the name of Greenly Isles. Point Whid-
bey, Whidbey's Isles, and Point Avoid were suc
cessively named, and then the vessel stood off from a
bight, which was named Avoid Bay. The next day an
island was seen to the south-west, lying off a prominent
cape, with a wide bay beyond. The island was named
Liguanea Island ; the cape, Cape Wiles ; and the bay,
Sleaford Bay. Still the land was low and uninteresting ;
still was there the curse of barrenness and aridity set
upon all the inland elevations which rose to view.
And now the coast seemed to trend again to the
northward. In fact, its northerly direction was
astonishing. Some islands lay to the eastward, and a
large block of land, which might prove to be the
eastern termination of the inlet they were now entering.
This was not the case, however. They steered to the
north of the land, and still there was no shore visible to
the east. The evening was far advanced when this was
ascertained, and as the shelter in the strait was good,
the vessel was anchored. A strong tide came that
night from the north-east, but no land could be seen
from whence it came. This circumstance, with the
trending of the coast, gave rise to many conjectures.
Large rivers, deep inlets, inland seas and passages into
the Gulf of Carpentaria, were terms frequently used in
the conversation of that evening. The prospect of
making a new discovery seemed to have infused new
life and vigour into the crew.
Early in the morning Flinders landed. He was
anxious to ascertain the connection of the eastern land
with the main, if any such existed. As he neared the
beach, he found it to be of great interest. There
were seals upon it, and, further on, innumerable traces
of kangaroo. There were no signs of the natives, and
yet the woods had been burnt by bush-fires. The place
was, in other respects, a perfect solitude. It was not
long before the insularity of this land was ascertained.

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 113
Flinders called it Thistle Island, after the mate of his
vessel, who was destined here to make the place doubly
remarkable by his own sad fate.
To the north of Thistle Island a group of islands were
seen, and as the shore appeared of a favourable descrip
tion, the cutter was sent on shore, in charge of Mr.
Thistle and a midshipman named Taylor, to search for
an anchorage where water might be procured. This
led to a sad accident. The little boat was carefully
watched sailing boldly in shore. There were no signs
of natives, nor any apparent danger, as she skimmed
briskly along. Her movements could be seen for a long
while, pausing here and there, as some promising little
opening seemed to hold out a hope of what they sought.
Towards evening she was seen again under sail, working
her way lightly across a dancing sea, towards the vessel.
Darkness came on, and she was lost sight of rather
suddenly, it was remarked afterwards, and before the
light had become too dim to discern her outline.
Half-an-hour after dusk, and the officer on the watch
had become uneasy. He had been pacing up and down,
expecting every moment to hear the plashing of the
waves, and to hear the cheerful hail of the officer in
charge. Flinders, at last, was informed of the delay.
Lieutenant Fowler was immediately sent away in a
boat, with a lantern, to see what, could keep the missing
crew. Two hours elapsed, and the boat did not return.
A gun was then fired. This brought back Mr. Fowler,
but alone. He could see no traces of the cutter. Near
the place where she had been last seen, he had met with
so strong a rippling in the water that his boat would
have been upset had he been sailing. There was every
reason now to fear what had been poor Thistle's fate.
It was too dark to see anything ; hallooing only brought
back the echo of their own voices, and no reply could
be obtained to the firing of the muskets. Had there
been daylight, probably some might have been saved ;
but as it was, the strong rippling tide would not only
carry the boat out to sea, but also bear away those
who would still struggle by swimming.
At daybreak, the vessel was steered across to the
VOL. I. X

114 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
mainland, in the direction where the cutter had been
seen, keeping an officer at the masthead, with a glass,
to look out for her. There was a cove in front of them,
into which it was just possible the cutter might have
gone ; so the Investigator was steered into it, and
anchored. The mainland extended from north-west to
south-east, and the islands around formed a very good
shelter for the bay.
A boat was despatched in search of the cutter. It
was not long before it cleared up the mystery. In a
very short time it returned, towing the wrecked boat,
bottom upwards. It was a perfect ruin, having been
dashed violently against the rocks. There was not the
least sign to indicate what had become of the crew.
The boat was again sent away in search, and a midship
man was stationed upon a headland, to observe every
thing which might drift by with the tide. Mr. Brown
landed to search the beach, and Flinders proceeded to
the southern extremity of the mainland, to institute
a search there. This point was now named Cape
Catastrophe ; and the island near, Taylor's Island ; the
latter in memory of the midshipman.
The furthest hope of Flinders was now to recover
some of the bodies of the lost men ; but even this poor
consolation was denied him. Not a trace of them was
ever discovered ; and the sight of a number of sharks
around the vessel gave a horrible explanation of the
cause. When every effort that could be devised to save
any of the survivors had been gone through, the Inves
tigator sailed on, to pursue her discoveries in this wide
inlet. Before doing so, Flinders called the site of the
disaster Memory Cove ; and he left an engraved copper
plate informing future comers of his sad disaster.
Besides this, he named six of the islands after men lost
in the boat ; and then went on to pursue his explora
tions in the remarkable gulf before him.
In the boat expeditions made in search of the cutter,
the coast had been found to turn sharply round from its
northern course, and bend in sufficiently to give rise to
a beautiful bay, which, in addition to its shelter from
the surrounding land, was also protected by an island

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 115
about four miles long. As Flinders was a native of Lin
colnshire, he called the bay Port Lincoln, and the island
Boston Island. The latter appeared as woody as the
mainland, and while the boat was sent to examine its
capabilities for supplying water to the ship's crew,
Flinders landed. He ascended a hill, which he called
Stamford Hill. The land he saw around him was beau
tiful and rich. The port terminated about seven or
eight miles westward, and there was a piece of water
beyond — a lake, in fact, which seemed to promise abun
dant supplies. This was called Sleaford Mere.
Flinders spent his time until the 6th of March in
surveying and naming the various places in connection
with this port. He thought he had made a great dis
covery, and that upon the south coast there was not a
more available harbour, with country around it more
pleasing and fertile. His opinions were subsequently
confirmed by Messrs. Peron and Freycinet, in Baudin's
expedition. Indeed, the French were in raptures with
the place, as the following quotation will testify : — " As
if nature were inclined, in favour of this port, to change
the character of monotony and barrenness stamped upon
the neighbouring lands, she has formed its shores of
gently rising slopes, and covered them with umbrageous
forests. We did not find any fresh water on this spot ;
but the vigour and liveliness of the vegetation, and the
height of the country, were certain indications to us of
some rivulets and copious springs." .... (After some
nautical particulars.) " Shall we repeat here what we
have already said as to the fertility of the soil ? shall
we speak of the valleys, which would seem to denote
corresponding springs or brooks of fresh water ? Is it
necessary for us to insist upon those numerous fires
which our companions, on approaching the port, observed
on all the neighbouring declivities, and which would
seem to denote a population much more numerous than
other points upon the south-west coast? Worthy to
rival Port Jackson, Port Lincoln is, under every point
of view, one of the finest harbours of the world, and
best adapted to receive a European colony."
Yet, after all this rhetoric, it remains to be told that,
i2

116 DISCOVERY AND EXLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
however excellent as a harbour, Port Lincoln forms a
wretched settlement. There is, no doubt, a consider
able tract of fine country, containing much land that is
available for sheep and cattle, and a -smaller portion fit
for tillage. But the great mass of the peninsula formed
between this gulf and Streaky Bay is barren, arid, and
of no use whatever ; and " although," says Mr. Eyre,
who had had better opportunities of judging than most
eolonists, " Port Lincoln possesses a beautiful, secure, and
spacious harbour, with a convenient and pretty site for
a town; and immediately contiguous .to which there
exists some extent of fine and fertile soil, with several
good grassy patches of country beyond ; yet it can
never become a large or important place, in conse
quence of its complete isolation and the limited nature
of its own resources." *
I have dwelt somewhat at length on the real nature
of this port, because the moderate praise of Flinders
was thought to be unjust by many whaling captains
who visited the harbour before it was finally settled
upon. Indeed, at one time it was considered a great
oversight not to have declared the capital of South
Australia there. Yet it seems strange that such
opinions should ever have prevailed among any who
could reflect for one moment. It was known that to
the north of the port the country was an absolute desert,
and Flinders had just discovered that the same character
prevailed to the westward. Now, as the sea bounded
the peninsula south and east, where was it expected to
find available country around? This notice of Port
Lincoln may be concluded by saying that, after a settle
ment of over twenty- five years, the place is still a poor,
struggling little township.
The Investigator was occupied until the 8th of March
in surveying the islands in Sir Joseph Banks's group.
She then proceeded north. The coast now became low
and sandy. A ridge of granite had taken its rise a
little above Port Lincoln, and this approached the coast
running parallel with it, shutting out any further view
* " Eyre's Journey," vol. i. p. 157.

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 117
inland. It was utterly destitute of vegetation, but the
country round was scrubby. The land seemed still to
trend northward, but the water was getting very shallow,
and here and there beyond the ship, out at sea, yellow
patches of sand and shoal could be seen occasionally.
They had already advanced more than eighty miles
from Cape Catastrophe, and although nothing had been
seen as yet to destroy the hopes formed from the strong
tides rushing past them, and the general direction of
the coast, yet they were considerably damped. There
was a want of boldness in the shores which augured
badly for the depth of the inlet ; and the depth of the
water, which was decreasing every mile, did not pro
mise to take them far to the northward.
Any doubt they might have had upon the question
was soon set at rest. The inlet took a more northernly
direction. It was still very low and barren ; the depth
did not increase, and land now became visible on
the eastern side of the gulf. They anchored . that
evening. To the west, the land rose gradually from the
beach to the same back hills ; but behind these again
some mountains further inland were now, for the first
time, visible. The furthest land visible to the north was
merely some detached hummocks, amongst which one
was named Mount James.
Next day, the land on the east side ofthe gulf seemed
very near to them as they sailed up. It differed very
much from the west side. The latter was, as described,
very low and sandy, here and there relieving the mono
tony by a patch of dark vegetation. The former was
high and bold. Near the shore it was very low, not
grassy, yet not very fertile, but it rose in the distance
to a fine range of mountains, whose distant blue sum
mits could be seen slowly hiding their sharp broken
summits in the thin haze of the distance.
The prospect of a channel or strait, cutting off
some considerable portion of Terra Australia was now
completely lost. The ship had entered into a deep gulf j
but there was still a chance of a large river, and
this view appearances favoured very much. They
turned, therefore, to steer up the gulf, full of hope. It

118 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
narrowed very rapidly as they proceeded, and at fifteen
miles was scarcely five miles wide. The range on the
east side was now very near them ; the nearest and
most conspicuous mount was named Mount Brown, after
the botanist to the expedition. There was a change,
too, on the west side. A series of moderately high flat-
topped hills began to show themselves, whose eastern
bluff, about nine miles off, had the appearance of ter
minating the gulf, but as the tide ran past the ship at
the rate of one mile an hour, they still hoped for a
longer course, and that it would end in a fresh-water
river. Early next morning, Messrs. Brown, Westall, and
some others set off on an excursion to the eastern moun
tains (since called Flinders's Range), intending, if
possible, to ascend to the top of Mount Brown. While
they were absent, Flinders went to examine the head of
the gulf. After crossing a shoal, upon which there was
only fifteen feet of water, it suddenly deepened to sixty
feet ; and then as suddenly diminished to twelve.
Mangroves now lined the shore, and though the mid-
channel was deep enough to float the ship on either
side, it shoaled so rapidly that there was no hope of
landing. The inlet was seen continuing in a serpentine
form between banks covered with mangroves, and into
which there was no chance of taking the ship. Flinders,
therefore, anchored, and went on in the boat. Even
this kind of exploration was soon stopped by mud flats.
A landing was with difficulty effected among the man
groves, and after a long search they came- to the
mortifying conclusion that the water at the head of the
gulf was just as salt as the sea at the mouth.
The land between the inlet and the range was low
and marshy, and about twelve to fifteen miles wide.
To the northward not a hill was visible ; to the west
only a small flat-topped elevation. All around else
where, except in the direction of the range, were man
groves, marshes, and mud flats. There could not be a
more desolate scene. It was one degree lower than
mere aridity. The land was quite as worthless as if it
were dry, and the hopeless prospect of mud and slush

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 119
and ooze gives an aspect of inutility and dank unwhole-
someness which makes one shudder, especially when,
amid all the wet and moisture, there is not one drop fit
to quench the thirst. It reminds one of those primitive
times revealed to us by geology, when there was light
and air, and even life, but not a fife of high order, nor
beings which could enjoy beauty in variety. The earth
was preparing for something better, heaving its mud
flats to seeth and simmer, while crustaceans crawled
across the slimy soil which water scarcely revealed. So
it is at the head of Spencer's Gulf. The mud flats are
scarce covered with the water, and where they are, rays
and all other sorts of flat fish swim about and pick up
a living among the slimy shellfish and shrimps which
crawl about. Two men may fill a boat with such in an
hour or so ; food in abundance, but not a drop of water
to drink. Altogether, this gulf is the analogue of the
Gulf of Carpentaria, in the north. The latter is just as
shallow, as oozy, and useless. Latterly, we have heard
in Australia a good deal about utilizing Carpentaria.
Why not the head of Spencer's Gulf, if such localities
are destined for such experiments ? You have, to all
intents and purposes, the same coast, but less warm,
and a little healthier.
Flinders returned to his ship about ten next night,
and Mr. Brown and his party had just arrived. The
ascent to Mount Brown had proved very difficult.
They had first to walk sixteen miles upon a winding
course before reaching the foot of the mount ; and then
gained the top about five in the evening. They had,
as they might have expected, to pass the night without
water, nor, indeed, did they get any at all until late
next day. But the view from the mount repaid them
for all, for the height of the hill was fully three thou
sand feet above the level of the sea. It was sublime
solitude and desolation. To the west was the gull,
meandering through low cliffs topped with sand or
shrubs, which, at that distance, looked like yellow mea
dows. Further on, distance merged both scrub and sand
into one subdued dusky brown tint, out of which square
blue blocks of table-land rose here and there in the

120 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
distance. To the east the land was wood and plain,
and swelling hill, with mountains beyond, rugged and
barren. But on every side, north, south, or east, the
dusky brown or misty blue was not .broken by a single
silvery spot of water.
As for the botanical harvest of Mr. Brown, it con
tained riches untold, flowers bright and rare — " God's
jewels," as they are called — abound even in that locality.
From the bright scarlet Clianthus to the graceful lilac
Hibiscus notabilis, there was every gradation of colour
and hue. The plumage of the birds, too, as through
out all Australia, was very lovely. There is a law of
compensation in the beauties of nature. The orange
and blue tints of the feathers were rivalled by the
gorgeous sunset seen from Mount Brown, such as only
can be seen in such a dry atmosphere ; and, on the
whole, the explorers returned and said that their jour
ney was well repaid by the beauty and variety which
they had beheld.
On the 13 th March, the Investigator commenced
coasting down the low sand dunes of the east side of
the gulf. This was also the west side of Yorke's
Peninsula, though it was not so known to the explorers
at the time. For nearly two degrees of latitude it
trended first in a south-west, and then in a southernly
direction. Three capes were passed in the interim, and
named. The coast then opened into a large bay, named
after the Earl of Hardwicke. This bay is one of the
safest and best in the gulf. There appeared to be
plenty of wood and water on the shore, as, in truth,
there is. Though the east coast of Yorke's Peninsula
is low and sandy, the west coast is only so as seen from
the sea. Further inland it is grassy and rich, and con
tains a very fine extent of pastoral country. What
has made it still more notorious and important to South
Australia has been the discovery upon it of an immense
number of rich mineral lodes of copper and other valu
able ores.
Beyond the bay the main coast was not to be dis
tinguished to the southward, except in some land about
twenty miles away, which seemed like a very large

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 121
island. However, this terminated the examination of
the gulf, which received its name after the First Lord
of the Admiralty. The extreme southernly point was
also named Cape Spencer. The distance between the
latter and Cape Catastrophe is about forty-eight miles,
and the gulf runs about three hundred miles inland, or
perhaps a little more. In the middle of the entrance a
group of islands occur, named the Gambier Isles.
When off Cape Spencer, on the 20th March, the
Investigator was overtaken by a storm, which obliged
her to lay under the land on the south. After round
ing a point (named . Point Marsden, in compliment to
the Secretary to the Admiralty), a bay was found
beyond. This afforded good shelter, and they anchored
in it. It was called Nepean Bay, after Sir E. Nepean,
also of the Admiralty.
They did not anchor until the 21st. Next morning
they landed. The beach was very grassy, and above
it the land rose in woodland or thick forest. As they
approached, a large number of dark-brown kangaroos
were seen feeding upon a grassy flat by the side of a
wood. They did not seem to mind the explorers, but
gazed on their movements with indifference. Doubt
less they mistook them for sealsj which were very
numerous about. This impression cost them very dear.
Flinders had a double-barrelled gun fitted with a
bayonet, and all the crew had muskets. Poor kan
garoo ! what a misfortune to meet, as the first specimens
of the human race, men who had been living on salt
meat for many months ! That evening thirty-one dead
animals were taken on board, the least weighing sixty-
nine pounds ; the largest, one hundred and twenty-five
pounds. The only difference between these and the
species found in the forests of New South Wales, was
that their colour was darker. They were not destitute
of fat. They did not attempt to run away from their
destroyers ; for, in spite of the butchery going on
among them, they suffered themselves to be knocked
over with sticks. Flinders seems, from his journal,
astonished at their suffering themselves to be shot in
the eyes with small shot. We may reasonably say that

122 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the astonishment ought to have been theirs, and we can
spare our surprise for Flinders himself for suffering it
to be done. The island was called Kangaroo Island.
A slight attempt was made to reach some, little dis
tance inland. Flinders scrambled with difficulty
through the brushwood and over fallen trees to reach
the higher land, with the surveying instruments ; but
nothing could be seen. Everywhere the wood was so
thick and the trees so high that they stopped the pros
pect on all sides. There could be no doubt that the land
was separated from the continent, and that it was very
extensive. It was easy also to infer that there were no
natives upon it. If there had been, the kangaroos
would certainly have been more wary. It might, how
ever, afford these poor beasts some satisfaction to know
that they were highly appreciated after death. " The
whole of the ship's company was. employed this after
noon," says Flinders, " in skinning and cleaning the
kangaroos, and a delightful regale they afforded, after
four months' privation from almost any fresh provisions.
Half a hundredweight of heads, fore-quarters, and tails
were stewed down into soup for dinner on this and the
succeeding days, and as much steaks given, moreover,
to both officers and men as they could consume by day
and night." They must have kept at it all night, it
would seem.
From Nepean Bay nothing could be seen of the
land to the north, and the sole bearing of importance
was a high mountain to the eastward. This was named
Mount Lofty. The land immediately at the back was
high and cliffy, terminating in a bold and prominent
cape, named Cape Jervis. It will facilitate- the compre
hension of this part of Flinders's explorations to bear in
mind that the Flinders's Range which was seen at the
head of Spencer's Gulf sweeps round to the south-east
in an almost uninterrupted chain. Mount Lofty is one
of the most prominent elevations of the south part, and
it terminates at Cape Jervis.
On the 24th March, the ship got under way from
Kangaroo. Island, to continue the examination of the
land from Cape Spencer. In the evening they saw a

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 123
low part of it lying north-east, with a hummock on the
land, and a shoal in front of it. This was the since
celebrated Troubridge Shoal, so well known as an im
portant danger to be avoided by ships coming from
England to Adelaide. It took some days to examine
this part of the coast, as the wind was unfavourable.
The shore was miserably low and sandy, but could
generally be approached within two miles. Many
tacks were made in these few days between the north
ern land and Kangaroo Island, and thus the strait
between was very carefully examined. It was called,
after the ship, Investigator's Strait.
On the 28th, Mount Lofty was recognised upon the
highest part of the ridge of mountains which extended
northward from Cape Jervis, a good way from the
shore. The nearest part of the coast was about nine
miles off. It was low, and composed of sand and rock.
A few miles inland, however, the country was very
much changed. The back mountains rose, and the
slopes were well covered with forest timber, besides
being apparently grassy and fertile. The swelling
valleys and steep declivities were clothed with bright
green turf, and it was evident that among the cliffs
and crevices further inland there was fine moun
tain scenery and drainage for water. Amid it all, the
sure sign of the natives rose at intervals. Columns of
smoke curling high into the air spoke of camps and
warriors who, perhaps, lit their signals at gazing for
the first time on one of the works of civilized man.
No land was visible far to the north, but trees
appeared just looming above the horizon, showing the
shore to be very low. Soundings were fast decreasing
meanwhile. They ran from noon until evening along
a sandy beach, and when twilight showed them nothing
but the misty outlines of low mangrove swamps, the
anchor was dropped. Early in the morning Flinders
took the ship a little further, and then went on in a
boat to examine the head of the gulf. It was just like
the head of Spencer's Gulf; probably a little more
cheerful-looking ; but in other respects the resemblance
Was complete. There were the same wide mud flats

124 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
covered with water and fish, and hidden by birds and
mangroves ; the same saltness of the water where the
sides of both shores unite. In point of richness of soil,
it exceeds the other gulf; and the little piece of country
below Mount Lofty, on which the city of Adelaide stands,
is a plain of wondrous fertility, grassy, and studded
with just trees enough to make it look like a park.
Flinders could not get nearer than within half a mile of
the shore, and even this was in a channel amid the
mangroves. The banks were made up almost entirely
of small shells above high-water mark. Above these
the shore soon rose in undulating hills to grassy
ground, and the several clumps of trees gave the land
a pleasing appearance from the water-side.
Having with difficulty effected a landing, the boat's
crew set off in the afternoon for a hill, named Hum
mock Mount, standing north from them about eight
miles. They could not, however, manage to reach it,
because they had made no preparation for staying one
night on shore. There was a smaller and nearer hill,
which Flinders ascended to obtain a view of the whole
inlet. Nothing new was ascertained by this means.
The opening was almost wholly occupied by flats, which
seemed to be sandy in the eastern part, and muddy in
the westward. The hill upon which he stood was poor
soil, with little grass. He found that the Mount Lofty
range passed within a few miles of Hummock Mount,
and appeared to be more sandy ; but the wood upon it
was abundant, and of a larger growth. Between the
two ranges he saw a broad valley, swampy at the bot
tom. Into this the water from both ranges appeared
to run down in rainy weather, and discharge itself
thence into the gulf. This was the only sign of fresh
water or a river which occupied the head of this deep
indentation of the land. Flinders thought also that he
saw one or two hills which had been points in his sur
vey on the other side of Yorke's Peninsula. At any
rate, he was now convinced that the eastern ridge
which rises at Cape Jervis was the same as that which
he had seen at the other gulf, and whose near summit
had been ascended and named Mount Brown, and

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 125
whose furthest point north was named Mount Arden.
The distance he estimated at more than three hundred
miles, but the range extends much further than even
that. From the station on the western hills of the new
inlet across to Spencer's Gulf the distance was not
more than thirty miles ; but as Flinders did not ascend
the highest part of the range, the water to the west
ward could not be seen. Had the Hummock Mount
been within their reach, its elevation (1500 feet) would
have given a fine view both of the peninsula and the
country to the northward.
In honour of one of the Lords of the Admiralty
the inlet was named Gulf St. Vincent. To the penin
sula the family name of Lord Hardwicke (Yorke) was
given. This piece of land is singular in its form, bear
ing some resemblance to a very ill-shaped leg and foot.
The length of the southern part from Cape Spencer to
Troubridge Shoal is about forty-five miles, and from
thence northward to where the peninsula joins the
mainland, about sixty miles. Its least breadth is from
the head of Hardwicke Bay to Investigator Strait,
where it appears to be not more than nine miles.
The Investigator touched again at Kangaroo Island
on her return, but examined no more of the coast than
that portion which lies opposite Cape Jervis. The
passage on this side, between the island and mainland,
is not more than seven miles wide at the narrowest
part, and as it formed a sort of private entrance to
Gulf St. Vincent, it was named Backstairs Passage.
The small bay where the vessel anchored was named
Antechamber Bay, and its principal cape, Cape Wil-
loughby. This cape is now better known by the fine
lighthouse which stands upon it. The whole of this
gulf and the surrounding features have assumed much
subsequent importance. Thus Yorke's Peninsula, as
already stated, contains some of the richest copper
mines in the world, at which the wealth of other
deposits, or the veins of the Oural mountains, fade into
insignificance. Mount Lofty towers over the pretty
city of Adelaide, and Kangaroo Island has been the
calling-place for the Peninsular and Oriental mail

126 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
steamers, in their passage between Suez and Mel
bourne. Outside Backstairs Passage there are three very
small barren granite islands, which are named The Pages.
They lie near a bay which was a remarkable one in the
voyage: it was there that Flinders met the French
discovery ship, under Admiral Baudin. It is important
to give the very words of Flinders, in relating what
passed between them, because a most unworthy effort
was made by the French Government to wrest from the
commander of the Investigator the credit of the disco
veries he had made. The quotation is for other reasons
of the highest interest, and serves as a good picture of
the terms upon which navigators stood, whose respec
tive nations were exhausting themselves in a deadly
struggle. " Before two in the afternoon," says the narrative,
after describing The Pages, " we stretched eastward
again, and at four a white rock was reported from aloft
to be seen ahead. On approaching it nearer, it proved
to be a ship, standing towards us, and we cleared for
action in case of being attacked. The stranger was a
heavy-looking craft, without any topgallant masts up,
and our colours being hoisted, she showed a French en
sign, and afterwards our English Jack forward, as
we did a white flag. At half-past five, the land being
then five miles distant to the north-eastward, I hove to,
and learned, as the stranger passed to leeward with a
free wind, that it was the French exploring vessel Le
Geographe, under the command of Captain Nicholas
Baudin. We veered round as Le Geographe was passing,
so as to keep our broadside to her, lest the flag of truce
should be a deception ; and having come to the wind on
the other tack, a boat was hoisted out, and I went on
board the French ship, which had also hove to. As I
did not understand French, Mr. Brown the naturalist
went with me in the boat. We were received by an
officer who pointed out the commander, and were by
him conducted into the cabin. I requested Captain
Baudin to show me his passport from the Admiralty,
and when it was found, and I had perused it, I offered

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 127
mine from the French Marine Minister, but he put
it back without inspection." (Englishman surly, and
Frenchman courteous, even at the Antipodes.) "He then
informed me that he had spent some time in examining
the south and east parts of Van Diemen's land, where his
geographical engineer, with the largest boat and a boat's
crew were left, and probably lost. In Bass's Strait, Cap
tain Baudin had encountered a heavy gale, the same
we had experienced in a less degree on March 21, in
Investigation Strait. He was then separated from his
consort ship, Le Naturaliste, but having since had fair
winds and fine weather, he had explored the south coast
from Western Port to the place of our meeting, without
finding any river, or the large island said to be at the
western entrance of Bass's Strait.
" Captain Baudin was communicative about his dis
coveries about Van Diemen's Land, as also of his criti-.
cisms upon an English chart of Bass, published in 1800.
He found great fault with the north side of the strait,
but commended the form given of the south side, and the
islands near it. On my pointing out a note upon the
chart, explaining that the north side of the strait was seen
only in an open boat by Mr. Bass, who had no good
means of fixing either latitude or longitude, he appeared
surprised, not having before paid attention to it. I
told him that some other and more particular chart of
the strait and its neighbourhood had been since published,
and that if he would keep company with my ship until
next morning, I would bring him a copy, with a small
memoir belonging to them. This was agreed to, and I
returned with Mr. Brown to the Investigator.
" It somewhat surprised me that Captain Baudin rnade^
no inquiries concerning my business upon this unknown
coast ; but as he seemed more desirous of communicating
information, I was happy to receive it. Next morning,
however, he had become inquisitive, as some of his
officers had learned from our boat's crew that we were
also on a voyage of discovery. I then told him, gene
rally, what our operations had been, particularly in the
two gulfs, and the latitude to which I had ascended in
the largest. I explained the situation of Port Lincoln,

128 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
where fresh water might be procured; showed him
Cape Jervis, which was still in sight ; and as a proof of
the refreshments to be obtained at the large island,
pointed out the kangaroo skin caps worn by my boat's
crew, and told him the name I had affixed to the island
in consequence. " In parting, the captain requested me to take care of
his boat and people, in case of meeting with them, and to
say to the Naturaliste that he should go to Port Jackson
as soon as the bad weather set in. On my asking the
name of the captain of Le Naturaliste, he bethought him
self to ask mine, and finding it to be the same as that
of the author of the chart he had been criticising, ex
pressed not a little surprise, and politely congratulated
himself on meeting me.
" The situation of the Investigator, when I hove to for
the purpose of speaking Captain Baudin, was 35° 40' S.,
and 138° 58' E. No person was present at our con
versations, and they were mostly carried on in English,
which the captain spoke so as to be understood. He
gave me besides what is related above, some information
as to his losses in men, separating from his consort, and
of the proper seasons at which he was directed to ex
plore this coast ; as also, a memorandum of some rocks
which he had met with in lat. 37° 1' (off Cape Jaffa),
and he spoke of them as very dangerous.
" I have been more particular," continues Flinders,
" in detailing all that passed at this interview, from a cir
cumstance which it seems proper to explain and discuss
in this place. At the above given latitude and longitude,
the discoveries made by Captain Baudin upon the south
coast have their termination to the west, as mine, in the
Investigator, have to the eastward. Yet Mons. Peron,
naturalist in the French expedition, has laid a claim, for
his nation, to the discovery of all the parts between
Western Port in Bass's Strait, and Nuyts' Archipelago ;
and this part of Australia is called Terre Napoleon.
My Kangaroo Island, a name which they openly adopted
in the expedition, has been converted at Paris into
L' Isle Decres. Spencer's Gulf is called Golfe Bona
parte ; the Gulf St. Vincent, Golfe Josephine ; and so

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 129
along the whole coast to Cape Nuyts; not even the
smallest island. being left without some similar stamp of
French discovery.
" It is said by Mons. Peron, and on my authority, too,
that the Investigator had not been able to penetrate be
hind the Isles of St. Peter and St. Francis ; and though
he does not directly say that no part of the previously
unknown coast was discovered by me, yet the whole
tenour of his chap. xv. induces the reader to believe
that I had done nothing which could interfere with
the prior claim of the Freneh. Yet Mons. Peron was
present afterwards at Port Jackson, when I showed one
of my charts of this coast to Captain Baudin, and
pointed out the limits of his discovery ; and so far from
any prior title being set up at that time to Kangaroo
Island and the parts westward, the officers of the
Geographe always spoke of them as belonging to the
Investigator. The first lieutenant, Mons. Freycinet,
even made use ofthe following odd expression, addressing
himself to me in the house of Governor King, and in the
presence of one of his companions, I think Mons. Bonne-
fby : ' Captain, if we had not been kept so long picking
up shells and catching butterflies in Van Diemen's
Land, you would not have discovered the south coast
before us.'
" The English officers and respectable inhabitants then
at Port Jackson, can say if the prior discovery of these
parts were not generally acknowledged ; nay, I appeal
to the French officers themselves, generally and indivi
dually, if such was not the case. How then came
Mons. Peron to advance what was so contrary to
truth ? Was he a man destitute of all principle ? My
answer is, that I believe his candour to have been equal
to his acknowledged abilities, and that what he wrote
was from overruling authority, and smote him to the
heart, for he did not live to print his second volume."
After this statement it will be unnecessary to dwell
longer on Mr. Flinders's claim to be the first discoverer
of the country just described. There can be no doubt
that the French Government most ungenerously at
tempted to appropriate the result of his labours. This
vol. i. k:

130 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was a part of the Napoleon policy, which one recognises
so very often in the history of the Emperor's career.
Prodigal to the French people, he could never afford to
be generous to an enemy; and while he boastfully
vaunted the least achievement of his nation, he was
capable of the most unprincipled meanness to tarnish the
renown of others. It is a pleasure, however, to state now,
that no one, French or English, defends Mons. Peron's
claims to priority of discovery for his commander.
At the place where the vessels met, Cape Jervis had
disappeared, and the coast' had become low and sandy,
curving round so as to form a large but open bay. As
the head of this bay was seen by both ships at the same
time, it received the name of Encounter Bay. The
succeeding part of the coast having been discovered
by the French, Flinders made use of their names in
describing it. It must be remarked, however, that the
French account of the voyage is not accompanied by
charts, and contains but few latitudes and longitudes, so
that the bays and capes could not be always identified.
The low sandy shore still continued without any
apparent break or inlet, and without any conspicuous
object being visible inland. This beach is of all others '
the most uniformly low and wretched looking in all
Australia. A few hummocks show here and there on
the top, partially covered with small vegetation, but
nothing else breaks the horizon or the solitude unless the
awful roaring surf. This beach differs from the coast
between Western Point and Cape Howe, in Bass's Straits,
for there beautiful inland scenery is visible ; it differs
also from that between Capes Northumberland and
Bridgewater, because there the sands are higher, and
mountains appear behind. In fact, it is the worthy
outwork of a terrible desert which lies inland, and is as
impenetrable as the beach is unapproachable It should,
however, be mentioned, that a great part of this beach
is not the true coast. It is a sort of outlying rampart,
passing like a wall along a salt-water channel. It
is open at the Encounter Bay end, and in the south
terminates abruptly. This is the Coorong.
The first break in the land was Cape Benoulli.

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 131
It was a well-wooded promontory, and the coast there
seemed to rise behind the beach into little hillocks,
crowned with black-looking trees. The next bight was
Lacepede Bay. It was bounded on the south by Cape
Jaffa, which was moderately high land, stretching a
long way out to sea. The bay was shallow, and
appeared very tranquil. This is its most extraordinary
feature. Though it is exposed to almost any wind, but
most of all to the only dangerous one, which blows
from the north-west, it is generally as smooth as a
mill-pond. One reason for this may be its shallowness,
and another the dense crop of seaweed with which the
bottom is covered. But it is still a remarkable fact
to be explained, and one of which coasters along this
shore are glad to avail themselves.
Captain Baudin had warned Flinders against cer
tain rocks near Cape Jaffa, which he justly described as
most dangerous, because they are completely hidden,
and extend about nine miles out from the cape.
Flinders, however, did not see them, and mistook for
them some rocky islets within the next opening, called
Guichen Bay. Flinders says : " About three leagues
from the south of the cape is a cluster of low rocks,
apparently the same of which Captain Baudin had
given me information. They do not, however, lie
exactly in the situation expressed in his memorandum,
and are not more than two miles from the land. We
called them Baudin's Rocks, and since no name is
applied to them in Mons. Peron's voyage, the name is
continued." These rocks are remarkable features. Instead of
rising from the waters like a reef, they stand out like
table-land, in the form of an island. The stone of which
they are composed is the loose, drifted sandstone
common to the whole coast ; and as it is very soft, the
island is washed into the most fantastic shapes. In
places it forms like arches set upon^ rugged stone
columns ; or again it turns out jagged pinnacles, which
are thinned to a fine point by the dashing of the spray.
The bay inside is picturesque and rocky. There
was very little surf upon the south side of the beach,

132 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
and here the coast swelled up into rich-looking grassy
knolls. On the north side the land was much higher,
rising into a mound, densely wooded, and apparently
grassy. Flinders gave it no name, but it has since
been called Mount Benson.
Four miles beyond the rocks, a sandy point
stretched out to sea. It was called Cape Lannes.
Beyond this the shore became as sandy as ever. It
was true, it was a little higher ; but nothing of the
country inland was seen. And yet this part of Australia
is far more fertile than that within the beach of
Encounter Bay. There the land is all scrub a little
distance from the sea, and a scrub so thick, so dense,
and so utterly worthless, as to deter all attempts at its
exploration. In this part, on the contrary, there is
much available land. As soon as the sand dunes of
the beach have been crossed, fresh-water lakes make
their appearance ; and the land, though marshy,
supports good grass, and is of rich soil. Here and
there, too, limestone ridges start up, clothed with hand
some timber, and a green turf, like velvet. All this is
to be attributed to the influence of the volcanic hills,
which break out on the southern coast.
It will be seen from the map that we have now
brought Flinders' exploration to where it touches
upon the discoveries of Captain Grant, in the Lady
Nelson. We therefore hasten on to the only other
novelty which remains in this first part of Flinders'
expedition. It will be remembered that Grant did not
see the coast between Cape Otway and Cape Schanck,
in Bass's Strait. He spoke of a great opening there,
which he called King George's Sound. Within this
lay Port Phillip. It had been discovered by Lieutenant
Murray, in the Lady Nelson, about ten weeks before
Flinders arrived there.
On the 26th April, the Investigator arrived off Cape
Schanck, and from thence bore away westward, in order
to trace the land round the head of the deep bight.
On the west side of the point a small opening was seen,
with water breaking across it. At first it seemed
scarcely worth notice, but in advancing it appeared

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 133
more interesting ; and Flinders sailed in to obtain a
nearer view. A large extent of water presently
became visible within ; and although the entrance
seemed very narrow, and there were strong ripplings,
like breakers, he was determined to steer on. Every man
was at his post as they approached the broken water.
The lead was kept going, but the soundings were quite
regular, between forty and seventy feet. They steered
through. The water became smooth and shallow, and
they found themselves in an extensive harbour. While
they gazed around in wonder at the inlet thus opened
to them, their vessel stuck fast upon a mud bank,
reminding them that first appearances were not the
best criteria as to the safety of a port. But the ship
was easily got off again, and brought to an anchor in
smooth, deep water.
The extensive harbour they had thus found was
supposed to be Western Port, although the narrowness
of the entrance by no means corresponded with the
width given by Bass. This mistake was due to the
information derived from Captain Baudin, who said he
had coasted along this land, and yet had found no
opening of any kind after leaving Western Port. But
next morning a very trifling examination convinced
Flinders that this could not be, and he congratulated
himself upon so useful a discovery, exulting much, we
may be sure, at the French allowing such a windfall to
come to him. But he did not know, of course, until he
reached Sydney, of Lieutenant Murray's visit. What
ever names Flinders gave had to be changed for those
of Murray, who had called the whole bay Port Phillip ;
the rocky point on the eastern side, Point Nepean ; and
a hill far inland on the same side, Arthur's Seat.
Flinders' observations were, however, new and
useful. He found that the western shore extended
from the entrance ten or eleven miles in a northerly
direction to the extremity of what he then called
Indented Head. Beyond this was a wide inlet, which
Flinders thought must communicate with the sea : for
he could not imagine that. so large a bay should have
only one outlet, and that such a narrow one.

134 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
The inlet here spoken of was Corio Bay, subsequently
seen by Messrs. Hume and Hovell, in their celebrated
overland journey from Sydney, in 1824, and now the site
of a flourishing and beautiful city. The whole aspect
of Port Phillip was remarkably good as far as the land
that surrounded it. But this could not easily be seen.
It was low and very flat. There were some high hills
looming in the distance in the west, and others to the
north and east, but far more distant still. With these
exceptions, the horizon of the shore was not broken,
except by an occasional peak jutting, in hazy distance,
into the sky.
Flinders found that the soil of this port was superior
to any on the borders of salt water which he had
had hitherto an opportunity of examining ; and to con
firm this view, there were many traces which showed
it to have been a favourite residence for natives. The
first lieutenant was directed to take the vessel back to
the entrance, whilst the commander went in the boat,
with three days' provisions, to explore as much of the
port as he could in that time. Having passed Indented
Head, he landed, and sent off three of the boat's crew
to the highest part of the back hills, called Station
Peak. Their way was over a low plain, where there
was but little drainage for the water. It was covered
with small, light grass, but almost destitute of wood ;
and the soil was clayey and shallow. One or two
miles before reaching the first of the hills, they entered
a wood. They soon saw that there was evidently no
communication between the western arm and the sea.
They built a small cairn on the top of the peak, and
deposited a roll of paper in it, stating the name of the
ship and the object and time of their visit. They then
returned to the tent, which the rest of the boat's crew
had pitched near the beach. Flinders soon found that
the bay was too extensive to survey accurately at that
time with the means at his disposal. He therefore
returned to his ship. This was the first visit to Port
Phillip of which there are any published particulars, for
Murray's visit does not appear to have ever emerged
from the silent tomb of colonial despatches. A great

FLINDERS AT THE SOUTH COAST. 135
change has come over the port since then. It now
leads up to the capital of the southern hemisphere,
Melbourne. No longer does the mournful silence of
solitude reign upon the shores ; no longer does a
single ship fill the savage Australian with vague
terrors. The bay is studded over with a fleet of ships,
among which are the finest specimens of our com
mercial navy. The mouth is crossed and recrossed by
vessels bearing the golden freights of Victoria's mineral
resources. The curling smoke of the native signal-fire
is replaced by the puffing clouds of the locomotive
engine, as it runs its swift pace between Melbourne
and Geelong, and the waves which chafe the shore are
increased in their splashing by the beating of screws
and paddle-wheels, which ply to and fro ; and yet
thirty years ago, and for thirty years after Flinders'
visit, the place was still a solitude !
After leaving Port Phillip, the Investigator s ex
plorations on the southern coast were terminated. He
was on his old ground. The man who had begun his
discoveries by sailing out from Port Jackson in a boat
eight feet long, now sailed in with a large ship,
equipped for exploration, and with the first-fruits of
his labours upon his charts. The south coast was now
unveiled. It should be here mentioned that a Mr. Reed, in a
sealing expedition, made, as he considered, the discovery
of the Southern part of a large island in Bass's Straits.
It afterwards appeared that the northern part had
been seen in January, 1801, by Captain Black, of the
ship Harbinger. The name of King's Island was then
given to it. This was the island spoken of by Captain
Baudin to Flinders. The French explorer did not
believe in its existence, and probably thought it not
worth his while to examine whether it did or no.
The island lies a little to the west of the entrance to
Bass's Straits, and is about one-third the size of
Kangaroo Island. It is inhabited.
On Flinders' return to Port Jackson, May 9, 1802,
he found at Sydney Cove the second French ship, Le
Naturaliste, of Baudin's expedition. He communicated

136 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
with the commander, Captain Hamelin, and showed
him his chart, so that there was no doubt then that
Flinders had been the first to explore between Cape
Nuyts and Encounter Bay. Why his charts were not
published first will be seen when his cruel imprison
ment and detention by the French at the Mauritius
is related.

137

CHAPTER VII.
FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED.
Flinders on the north-west coast — Broad Sound — The Barrier Reef — Torres
Straits — Carpentaria — Wellesley Islands — Sir Edward Pellew's Group-
Cape Maria — Bickerton Island — Groote Eylandt — North-west Bay — Bustard
Islands — Blue Mud Bay — Caledon Bay — Arnhem's Land — Melviile Bay —
Cape Wilberforce — Flinders meets with Malay fishermen — Malay Road —
Return to Sydney — Flinders sails for England — Shipwreck — Imprisonment
— Death — First settlement of Port Phillip, Hobart Town, and Launceston—
Buckley the wild man — The explorations of Admiral Baudin's expedition.
It took some time for Flinders to refit for the second
part of his expedition. Considering how long he had
been at sea, it would be no wonder if he had remained
some months to recruit at Sydney, for there were many
things to detain him. His losses in men have been
already stated ; and now, also, he made the unpleasant
discovery that the Investigator was very unfit to con
tinue his explorations in. She had been represented as
almost a new ship, but it proved, on examination, that
she was almost as old as Xenophon himself, her former
namesake. But it would have taken a good deal to deter
such a commander as Flinders, so he sailed away again
on the 22nd July.
His vessel was accompanied by a tender, the Lady
Nelson, which was now commanded by Lieut. Murray.
The object of the voyage was to examine Hervey,
Keppel, and Shoalwater Bays, which had been imper
fectly seen both by Cook and himself. They were
then to proceed with both ships to Torres Straits, and
examine the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Of the examination of Hervey Bay little need be
said. Flinders had been there before, and what he now
saw did not alter his opinion of the sandy and
worthless character of the country around. A passage

138 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was found between Breaksea Spit and the coast, and this
showed the bay to be in reality a strait. The island was
called Great Sandy Island — a very proper appellation.
It will be remembered that Cook had landed at a
low part of the coast, which he had termed Bustard
Bay. Flinders took the Investigator to the same place.
A little above the bay a chain of hills was observed,
bearing off to the eastward, and near them a small
opening. It was not a mile in width, but any chance
of the kind was always a signal to steer the Investigator
towards the shore. Inside there was a large bay, one
arm of which was found to sweep round into Keppel
Bay, so that Cape Capricorn, the boundary of the
tropics, was therefore insulated.
The bays and inlets around this islet were in
numerable : they were low and indifferent as places
for anchorage. Flinders surveyed them all, and
summed up the whole opening by calling it Port Curtis.
The country around is settled upon now to some extent,
and it has attracted much notice in connection with a
disastrous "rush" to a gold-field near it in 1859. No
rush probably ever caused so much loss of life and pro
perty, and for this alone Port Curtis will be remembered
when even Flinders is forgotten, though his name may
likewise long survive because of his misfortunes.
The country around the port is overspread with
grass and the trees common to this latitude in Australia ;
but here commences a very fertile part of the coast,
whose vegetation is much more luxuriant and rich.
The belt of country between Moreton and Keppel Bays
appeared to both Flinders and Cook to be very un
inviting, and yet in reality it is not so at a short
distance from the sea. About twenty miles in the
interior the eastern side of the coast range is reached,
and a very superior country then commences. The en
livening alluvial flats are, however, occasionally of rich
soil. On reaching Keppel Bay the character of the
coast country appears suddenly to change. Smooth,
swelling downs rise up in gentle undulations to the
coast range, which here attains a height of about
1500 feet. The land is of the richest kind, and there is

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 139
abundance of it; and what gives it a value — which
Flinders, however, did not discover— is, that it contains
the River Fitzroy, which is one of the finest of Aus
tralian streams, and drains the largest and richest extent
of country on the continent. Many new tropical plants
are met with which give a new character to the other
wise monotonous uniformity of Australian scenery.
Some native fruits are met with : a Ficus, yielding
gutta-percha, grows on the banks of the river. Several
varieties of croton, allied to that which yields cascarilla
bark, and also many plants of the cinchona family,
among which is a stately deciduous tree ; and one pre
senting a beautiful wood and a yellow dye, the Oxkyea
Leichhardtii. Keppel Bay is a large basin, affording
safe anchorage for vessels of any size. It is well shel
tered, and on the north, side of Curtis Island there is
abundance of fresh water. The southern banks of the
Fitzroy consist of extensive mangrove flats, extending
towards a hill, which Flinders named Mount Larcom,
and the picturesque ranges which bound the southern
horizon.* The rocks in this district are clay slate, mica
slate, and grey limestone. The whole of the formation
is broken through by granite and trap rocks. In the
alluvial debris ofthese gold has been found in every direc
tion, but it does not appear as yet to exist in veins.
Of course, one naturally concludes that so beautiful
and fertile a place would render Flinders very enthu
siastic, and make him give a glowing account of it ;
but it did not. The fact is, coast explorations are
necessarily unsatisfactory ; the mariners cannot go
far from their ship, and so they see only the worst of
shore. Thus Flinders could get but little beyond the
mud flats and mangrove swamps of the bay, and this
not in the best part, but where there was the best
anchorage. Then, when he had waded through slush
and slime to firmer land, he had to delay while
offsets and sights and bearings wTere taken. It was
only during a pause in the work, or while he
snatched a hasty meal, that he could find time to
* Sir C. Nicholson's Report, 1860.

140 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
look around ; and if there were no rocks and shoals in
the sea — which, of course, required the largest share of
attention — he looked about him on land. Then, neces
sarily, the impression was coloured by the appearance
of the ground on which he stood, and the finest scenery
was set down as sterile, because it was seen from among
mangroves, in which the observer was up to his knees
in mud. Many traces of the inhabitants were seen while the
party vvas on shore ; and, lest there should be any
doubt as to the character of the savages, they gave the
explorers a specimen of it as soon as they landed. A
small party, who had watched the movement of the
boat, retired when the crew disembarked to a high
mound which overlooked them. They then, with great
deliberation, began throwing stones at the intruders.
Fortunately, their audacity excelled their dexterity ;
but the former was not proof against a few musket shots
fired over their heads. Others were seen after that,
but they took good care to be out of reach of muskets.
It is remarkable how the experience of Captain
Flinders showed him what a little was required to
defeat these poor savages. In this instance, not a
drop of blood was shed upon either side.
On the 18th of August, the examination of Keppel
Bay was concluded, and Flinders proceeded upon his
journey. As he sailed northward he found numerous
islands and rocks. Two of them are of larger size
than the rest. Captain Cook had tried to pass
between them and the mainland, but found the water
too shallow. As the Investigator passed outside them,
it was observed that they were large and rocky, covered
with wood and grass, and many fresh-water gullies
leading down into the sea. At the back of the islands
the main coast is low and sandy, with occasional rocky
heads ; but at the distance of two or three miles inland
a moderately elevated wooded chain of hills was visible.
This was the scenery up to Cape Manifold.
From that cape the coast suddenly falls back to a
sandy beach, and near it are some scattered rocks. The
land was low, as usual, but at the north end there was

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 141
a hilly projection. As they neared this, Flinders was
surprised to see upon it some pines, of the genus
Araucaria, which was thought to be confined to Norfolk
Island.* Pines were also distinguished upon a rocky
islet, and behind this there was a deep bight, or port.
This was named Port Bowen, and the Investigator came
to an anchor within it.
Flinders made an excursion round this harbour ; for
he found when he was within it that it was well worthy
of a narrow examination. The scenery was very beau
tiful. Amid the luxuriance of a tropical vegetation, it
was splendid to see the bold cliffs of rock rise up from
the shore, crowned with a drooping plumage of graceful
dark-green pines. But after describing its beauty,
Flinders seemed to think that nothing more could be
said in praise of the inlet. It was sandy and barren
near the shore, as far as grass was concerned, yet there
were many natives about, so that the neighbourhood
must have been better than what could have been seen
on a boat's cruise.
From Port Bowen the Investigator sailed into Cook's
Shoalwater Bay, the examination of which possessed
scarcely any points of interest. As a bay of refuge it
was found to be worthless, and there was no fresh
water to be had except at a considerable distance from
the shore. The inlet was a mass of mud, surrounded by
mangroves on the lower part, and by pines on the higher.
From Shoalwater Bay, Flinders went into Thirsty
Sound, and then into Broad Sound, where the monotony
of their survey was varied by striking upon a mud
bank. No damage was done, however. When the
vessel was anchored, a party was equipped as usual to
examine the shore. It is very wearisome to have to
tell the same old story about mud flats and mangroves,
but positively there is nothing else here to describe.
There is one little incident, however, which might have
happened anywhere else, but since it happened here it
is worth telling. The Lady Nelson, as already described,
was a model ship, and her principal advantages con-
* These pines are of a different species from those, iu Norfolk Island.

142 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
sisted of three long keels, which went down straight
into the water like three masts stuck in the bottom.
They were made to lift up and down from the deck ;
but a rock, near Keppel Bay, which the brig had passed
over, had saved the crew all further trouble about lifting
one of them by neatly shaving it off. This was the cen
tral keel. A new one was fitted at Port Bowen, and
when the brig anchored at Broad Sound it was intended
that she should take the ground as the tide went out.
This happened rather rapidly, and when it was wanted
to raise the new keel it was so swelled by the wet that it
would not come up. It was no good pulling, for while
they were tugging away it took the ground. Thus
was the vessel left. She turned about violently upon
her pivot, dragging both anchors, until the keel broke
off, and she came down bump in the mud. There is
something original in the idea of a ship pirouetting
round thus upon one leg ; and spite of the book written
in praise of sliding keels, they proved, in the case of
the Lady Nelson, to be a thorough nuisance.
This Broad Sound was not the nicest place in the
world to anchor in ; but, fortunately, the bottom was
soft, so that a ship would not do much harm by striking.
The tide went out rapidly, leaving the usual extensive
flats and a noisome smell of salt marshes. When it
came in it was with a roaring noise, like a bore along
a river, filling the marshes, and making the mangroves
appear like an undulated cabbage garden. In coasting
along, Flinders had found a little opening, which he
proceeded to examine in the boats. At the end of six
miles, the small channel led across to the western side.
This gave an opportunity of landing, which was, un
fortunately, rather rare ; so here the tent was pitched,
and they prepared to pass the night.
The whole breadth of the sound was now reduced
to half a mile. The country around was a stiff clayey
flat, covered with grass, and liable to be overflowed at
spring tides. Three or four miles to the southward
there were some hills, and as these seemed to offer a
better camping place, they set off again towards them.
The grass, as they walked, was interspersed with a kind

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 143
of sensitive-plant, which curled up when it was touched ;
and this was so marked that the way they had come
was traceable for a long time afterwards.
Towards Shoalwater Bay the country consisted of
gently rising hills and extensive plains, well covered
with wood, and apparently fertile. The stream at the
head of the sound could not be traced more than three
or four miles above the tent. Behind this there was
the usual dividing range of mountains, which here was
still granitic, but very low. With the exception of
these few facts, absolutely nothing was ascertained
about the sound beyond an accurate survey. There
was the usual tropical experience of sultry weather,
sudden squalls, great heat, and deluges of rain. There
was the usual Australian experience of mosquitoes,
which defied any attempts at rest on shore. How men
should have attempted it, seems marvellous ; for sleeping
amid salt marshes in such a climate would be certain
death in most places. But here it did not cause the
slightest inconvenience, and no complaint was made of
anything except the dreary prospect of those melancholy
swamps, and the mosquitoes by night or. the flies by
day. I have refrained from mentioning the latter
inconvenience as often as it is complained of by the
explorers, for it would stop me at every page ; but if
any one wants to know what the Egyptians must have
suffered, let them go to Australia — -it does not much
matter where — but in the tropics the benefit of a winter
cessation of the plague is not to be looked for.
While Flinders was away, he directed his officers to
take a complete set of lunar observations, in order to
correct the longitude, before proceeding to Carpentaria.
On his return to the ship he found that the chro
nometers had been allowed to run down. As this was
a misfortune which it would require a whole week to
repair, Flinders started for Thirsty Sound, to correct
some points in Cook's charts. On his return he found
that the timekeepers had been again suffered to run
down. This was very embarrassing ; and the patient
and calm way in which he speaks of it in his journal is
quite edifying. To go away to Torres Straits or the

144 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Gulf of Carpentaria without good rates was to impair the
acccuracy of the whole survey ; and, on the other hand,
the approach of the foul monsoons admitted no further
delay in Broad Sound. On comparing the last day's
rates with those previously obtained, the letting down
did not appear to have produced any material alteration.
He, therefore, determined to combine the whole together,
and proceed to Torres Straits without further delay.
His first course was to try to get through the
Barrier Reef. This extends, with a few interruptions,
for nearly a thousand miles. The average distance
from the shore is about thirty-four miles, but, in some
parts, from sixty to seventy. The great arm of the sea
thus included is from ten to twenty-five fathoms deep,
with a sandy bottom ; but towards the southern end,
where the reef is further from the shore, the depth
gradually increases to forty. The outer edge of the
reef is the highest part. It is traversed by narrow
gullies, and, at intervals, by ship channels. The sea,
close outside, is profoundly deep.* After examining
one or two of the Percy Islands, Flinders attempted to
get the Investigator outside the reef. It must not be
imagined that the latter is like a straight wall, and that
inside it the opening is clear. From what we have
seen in Cook, we might gather that the channel was
full of reefs and shoals, and the barrier itself, instead of
running smoothly along, winds and curls into the most
fantastic forms, or is broken into islands and shoals of
great extent.
On stretching away from the land, reefs were dis
covered on the 5th October, and no land in sight.
Flinders bore away along the inner side of the most
northern one. In an hour, its west end was passed ;
but no sooner was this done when another came in
sight. These were not dry in any part, with the
exception of some small black lumps, which, at a dis
tance, resembled the heads of negroes. It was soon
found that any attempt to navigate among them would
only lead the ship into a hopeless labyrinth ; and what
Darwin. " Coral Reefs," p. 47.

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 145
delayed her more was the slow sailing qualities of the
Lady Nelson, which now appeared utterly unfit for a
purpose of this kind. He continued, however, to
struggle from reef to reef and from channel to channel,
often having to pass within a few yards of terrible
dangers, and depending for escape upon nothing but the
tidal currents. At last, in despair of accomplishing his
purpose, he sent the Lady Nelson back upon the 18th,
and continued his journey with only one ship. This
was the commencement of better things, for two days
afterwards his ship got through in lat. 19° 9', long. 148°.
This part of the reef was out of sight of land. It
had been seen by Captain Campbell, in 1797, and by
Captain Bligh two years after. Before leaving the
great barrier reef, Flinders landed upon a part of it,
which he described. His account of the beauties he
saw is very picturesque, and far too graphic to be
omitted here.
The water being very clear round the edges, he
says : " A new creation, but imitative of the old, was
presented to our view. We had wheat-sheaves, mush
rooms, stag-horns, cabbage-leaves, and a variety of
other forms glowing under the water with vivid tints
of every shade, betwixt green, purple, brown, and
white, equalling in beauty and excelling in grandeur
the most favourite pasture of the curious florist. There
were different species of coral and fungus, growing, as
it were, out of the solid rock, and each had its peculiar
shade of colouring. _ But whilst contemplating the
richness of the scene, we could not long forget with
what destruction it was pregnant.
" Different corals in a dead state, concreted into a
solid mass of dull white colour, composed the stone of
the reef. The negro heads were lumps, which stood
higher than the rest, and being generally dry were
blackened by the weather ; but even in these the forms
of the different corals and some shells were distinguish
able. The edges of the reef, but particularly on the
outside, where the sea broke, were the highest parts.
Within these were pools and holes, containing live
corals and sponges, and sea-eggs and cucumbers
VOL. I. L

146 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
(Aplysiw?), and many enormous cockles (Chama gigas)
were scattered upon different parts of the reef. At low
water, the cockle seems most commonly to lie half open,
but frequently closes with much noise, and the water
within the shell then spouts up in a stream three or four
feet high. It was from this noise, and the spouting of
the water, that we were enabled to discover them, for
in other respects they were scarcely to be distinguished
from the coral rock. A number of these cockles were
taken on board the ship and stewed in coppers, but
they were too rank to be agreeable, and were eaten only
by few. One of them was forty-seven and a half pounds
in weight, as taken up, and the animal inside was
three pounds two ounces. This size was much inferior
to what was found by Captains Cook and Bligh upon
the reefs of the coast further northward, or to several
in the British Museum, and I have since seen single
shells more than four times the weight of the above
shells and fish taken together."
It is needless to enter into a detail of how Flinders
was baffled in trying to pass the barrier. His efforts
were equally creditable to his patience and skill. Place
after place was tried in vain ; and, considering that a
good deal of the sailing was made by night, it is per
fectly marvellous how the many dangers were avoided.
No wonder that he congratulated himself in being out
of soundings, and steering out into the open ocean for
Torres Straits.
On the 29th, they sighted Murray Islands, where
they anchored. Scarcely had they done so when forty
or fifty savages came off in canoes. They would not
come alongside of the ship, but lay off at a little distance,
holding up cocoa-nuts, joints of bamboo filled with water,
plantains, and bows and arrows. A barter was soon
commenced, which was carried on in this manner : a
hatchet, or a piece of iron being held up, they offered
a bunch of green plantains, a bow and a quiver full
of arrows, or what they judged should be received in
exchange. The savage then leaped overboard and
swam to the side of the ship, and made the exchange.
They came to the vessel without the slightest fear ;

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 147
but as these islanders had made a very savage attack
upon some vessels about two years previously, Flinders
was very cautious in his intercourse with them. They
seemed to be quite a different race from the Austra
lians : _ their canoes were well constructed, and they
had sails, of which the natives of the continent seemed
not to know the use.
From the Murray Islands, Flinders steered west.
He landed upon one of the CornwalHs Islands, half
way through the straits ; it was little better than a
bank of sand upon a basis of coral rock ; yet it was
covered with shrubs and trees so thickly that in many
places they were quite impenetrable. The north
western part was entirely of sand, but there grew upon
it numbers of pandanus trees, similar to those upon the
east coast. The island was occasionally visited by the
natives : this was evident from the relics they had left
of their ingenious contrivance of obtaining water upon
this arid spot. The process showed more talent for
invention than the natives generally display. Flinders
had observed round the finest pandanus palm-trees a
ring of shells — of Chama gigas. He was a long time
before he could guess the reason for their being placed
there. At last he noticed long slips of bark tied round
the stem of a palm-tree, the loose ends of which were
led into the shells underneath. By these slips the rain
which runs down the branches and stems of the tree is
conducted into the shells. Every considerable shower
filled them ; and as each shell held about two or three
pints, forty or fifty of them round a tree would retain a
large supply of water.*
* The fruit of the pandanus, as used by the Australians, affords very little
nourishment. They suck the bottom part of the drupes or separated nuts,
as we do the leaves of the artichoke, but the quantity of food thus obtained is
very small and astringent. In the Nicobar Islands, one species appears to
afford an important article of food, and the fibre of another species is exten
sively used for mats, bags, &c, in the Mauritius. — See Flinders, vol. ii. p. 114.
Leichhardt says of the same tree : " I frequently tasted the fine looking fruit, but
was each time severely punished with sore lips and a blistered tongue, and the
first time I ate it I was attacked by a violent diarrhoea. I could not make out
how the natives neutralized the noxious properties of the fruit, which, from the
large heaps in the camps, seemed to form no small portion of their food. The
fruit appeared to have been soaked or roasted, and broken, to obtain the
kernels, for which purpose we invariably found large flat stones and pebbles

148 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
The little island Flinders named Halfway Island.
It was scarcely more than a mile in extent, but appeared
to be increasing in elevation. At no very distant
period it seemed produced by the washing up of sand
and broken coral, of which all reefs afford instances,
and those of Torres Straits a great many. These banks,
Flinders remarks, are in various stages of progress;
some had become islands ; some above water-mark, but
destitute of vegetation ; and others, again, were over
flowed by every returning tide, or existed as dangerous
reefs just under low water-mark.
On the 31st of October the ship was anchored close
to one of the Prince of Wales Islands, which, however,
they were hardly able to recognise, from errors of
longitude in Captain Cook's charts. They only landed
on one of the isles, and this, having previously received
its name, was called after a certain Mr. Good. Before
disembarking, they thought that they could perceive
the tents of natives upon the shores : these were found
to be ant-hills, eight feet or more in height. It has
been already mentioned how other explorers have been
deceived in the same manner. Pelsart found several
similar hills upon the west coast, and they were
remarked by Dampier, who thought, as usual, that they
were huts.*-

to pound them with. I supposed that they washed out the sweet mealy
matter between the stringy fibres, and that they drank the liquid as they do
the honey, and that their large koolimans, which we had occasionally seen,
were used for the purpose. I consequently gathered some very ripe fruit,
scraped the soft part with a knife, and washed it until all the sweet substance
was out, and then boiled it; by which process it lost almost all its sharpness,
had a very pleasant taste, and, taken in moderate quantities, did not affect the
bowels. The fruit should be so ripe as to be ready to drop from the tree."
— Leichhardt's Overland Journey to Port Essington, p. 100. The species of
pandanus are very numerous ; they are easily recognised by the thin leaves
growing spirally from the trunk, and being in shape like those of the pine
apple ; long roots are emitted from the sides of the trunk, for the purpose
of holding it down in loose sand, amid which they grow.
* The insects which inhabit these structures are small, sluggish, feeble
creatures, in which particular they resemble the white ants on the south
coast, which turn up similar nests, but not so large. It is a singular fact that
the internal galleries of these nests is a very hard, light substance, of dark
brown colour, not at all like the earth from which it is derived. It forms a
splendid gravel in gardens, of which one nest will give a cartload. The
natives feed very readily upon these insects.

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 149
The stone on Prince of Wales Islands appeared to
be granite, but there was porphyry and traces of copper.
South of these islands the soundings were extremely
shallow, even when a low sandy point of the mainland
lay eight miles away. Between Cape Cornwall (of Cook)
and the same low land is the opening called in the
Dutch charts Speult's River. This was Endeavour
Strait, which Cook had sailed through. The Wallis
Islands described by him are small, low, and rocky,
and the most northerly destitute of vegetation. They
are surrounded by sandy shoals, which appeared to
connect them with the mainland.
The Investigator passed Wallis Islands, steering to
the south, towards the mainland ; but the shoals forced
her to the westward. This gave them regular sound
ings, and they steered southward into the Gulf of
Carpentaria. At noon, on the 4th November, they
came in sight of the coast. It was sandy and low, like
that on the south of Endeavour Strait ; so low indeed
that it could not be seen at a very short distance out to
sea. Behind the shore there appeared to be a little
vegetation, but it was totally destitute of anything like
a hill. A large opening soon presented itself, but the
vessel could not be got near it. Twice Flinders made
the attempt ; and twice, at three miles from the land,
the water became so shallow that the ship would have
struck had she been taken nearer.
Yes ; this was Carpentaria. Before they went any
further, let us see what they had before them. This
gulf had long wanted some explorer to clear up its
mysteries. There was Tasman's chart ; but this left
matters wofully in the dark. It was true there was
the great opening ; but what was the coast around it ?
There was the boundary line between land and sea ;
but was it a fine, bold, dashing ocean which cast up its
endless noisy surgings against a rock-bound coast,
whose frowning cliffs were overhung with the dark
luxuriance of a tropical vegetation ? or was it the
dreary salt marshes of the other gulfs, studded with
mangroves, amid which the shallow tide sluggishly
glided, or left a muddy ooze half dry to poison the air ?

150 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Alas ! for poor Australia, what a pity its finest inlets
are its discreditable features.
Readers, who form their idea of the Gulf of Carpen
taria in connection with the Gulf of Genoa or the Gulf
of Lyons, must dismiss such from their minds at once.
Indeed, it will be difficult enough to form an idea of the
first named without any preconceived notion stepping
in to mar the imaginative picture. Take the peculiar
characteristics of Australian scenery — that is to say, the
dark black foliage of the trees — cull from the tropical
flora those plants which best remind you of the heat in
which they grow, but not of the richness of the soil, nor
of the beautiful flowers which surround them. Put all
this in patches of yellow glaring sand ; front it with
mud flats, with straggling dwarf mangroves above all,
and you have the Gulf of Carpentaria as seen from the
sea. What ! all around that immense inlet ? Yes, all
round — well, no, not exactly. There are islands break
ing in upon the monotony, and there are openings
which are proud to call themselves fertile rivers ; but
the coast does not alter much from Cape York to
G-roote Eylandt.
But the features of this noisome locality are not
exhausted. With an idea of only the sand, the mud
flats, and the mangroves, one would form but a very
faint conception of the true nature of the gulf. There
is the sea and the sky. The former is, of course,
muddy in colour, and very shallow. There is only one
tide in the twenty-four hours. It takes twelve hours
for the tide to flow in, and twelve hours for it to flow
out again. As it goes out it leaves a variegated
breccia of shells upon the beach ; pretty enough were
it not that the alligator basks in the slime, and the
unwieldy turtle tumbles along in the sand. The sky is
either clear and serene, allowing the scorching rays of
the sun to come down as probably it does come down in
few other places in the world ; or it is covered with
dense clouds twice a year, sending out deluges of rain.
There are occasions, and they are many, when the
weather is very squally. Then, thunderstorms, with
very strong winds, are sudden and violent, This is

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED 151
the meteorology of Carpentaria. Between land and
sea and sky it is to be hoped that readers can under
stand the place in which we have very rapidly to follow
the first English explorer.
On the 6th, the Investigator had a breeze off the land,
which carried her until evening along the same low
line of coast. Natives were seen for the first time near
a small opening. The boats were ordered out, and the
captain landed with the naturalist ; but the savages ran
away with the greatest precipitation. This small open
ing was marked by the Dutch as the Coen River ; but
the entrance was too small and narrow to admit any
thing but boats. In its upper part the country seemed
well covered with Eucalyptus trees. Near the entrance,
however, it was as usual ; nothing but bare sand with
some scattered trees of Casuarina and Pandanus. The
only rock which did appear was coral concrete.
On the 8th, a variety appeared upon the shore, A
sandy point with two hillocks was passed. This was
omitted in the Dutch charts, but as it must have been
seen by the Duyphen, Flinders called it Point Duyphen.
Within this there was a bay of the same low land, and
beyond it another point, now named Pera, after one of
the Dutch vessels, which visited it in 1623. On the
10th they were opposite Cape Kurweer, where the
Duyphen turned back in 1606. Nothing like a cape
was seen, but the coast fell back somewhat behind it.
This was in lat. 13° 42'. An opening had been marked
near this, which Flinders could not see ; but subsequent
explorers have found many small creeks opening upon
that coast, and therefore it is very possible that the
Dutch were right.
The coast now became much lower than before. Not
a single hill had been yet seen, and the tops of the trees
on the highest land scarcely exceeded the height of the
topmast ; the depth, too, was so shallow, that when good
soundings could be obtained, the tops of the trees were
alone visible from the deck. On the 12th, they passed
an opening, which corresponded with the Water Plaets
of the Dutch charts, but they could not find anything
corresponding to the Nassau River, marked in the same

152 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
maps in lat. 15° 53'. And yet both these must have
existed ; but openings could not easily be seen where
only the tops of the trees, were visible. It is in about
this latitude the Mitchell River disembogues, a stream
which receives so many tributaries in its course from
the table-land.
A few miles south of lat. 1 6°, the water became so
shallow that the Investigator was obliged to sail far
from the land, so that only the tree-tops could be seen
from the masthead. Staten River of the Dutch was
thus missed, and Flinders remarks, with surprise, that
all the rivers marked by that nation's navigators on
this coast must have filled up, or disappeared in some
unaccountable manner. Probably this arose from the
way in which Flinders expected them to be visible.
He must have thought that the mouth of a stream
would be as apparent as the entrance to Port Jackson.
This also will account for the number of rivers which
he missed in his explorations along the east coast. A
glance at the map will show how many rivers flow
down on the east side of the coast range ; and though
Flinders was actually engaged in surveying the line of
land on either side of them, by some unaccountable
obliquity of vision, he never saw them. The fact is,
his talent lay in marine surveying, and not in a narrow
examination of the features of a newly discovered
shore. ( As he_ sailed along, it is a wonder that Flinders saw
any opening at such a distance from such low coast.
At noon, on the 14th, they were in lat. 17° 3', with
only twenty feet of water under them, though the
coast was fully three miles off. This latitude corre
sponded with a small opening marked as Yan Diemen's
Inlet, by the Dutch ; but they did not go in closer to
examine it. It appeared as if closed by a mud bank,
which would probably prevent an examination even
with boats.
Up to this time Flinders was under the belief that
he should find the Dutch charts wrong in every, par
ticular, and that instead of a wide shallow gulf, he
would discover a strait which might lead very far into

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 153
the interior. But the afternoon of this day served, in a
great measure, to damp these hopes. The course of the
shore was to the westward, and exactly corresponding
to the old maps ; besides which, the water became more
shallow almost every mile they sailed. It was useless to
try to examine the coast in the ship. Every day they
were obliged to keep further away, until they could
scarcely see the land even from the masthead.
On the 17th, however, a change came. A hill was
reached. It was a mass of limestone, quite unnotice-
able under ordinary circumstances, but here very
remarkable, as it was the first high land seen in the
course of a journey along the coast of five hundred and
thirty miles. The hill proved to be an island. It was
opposite what was marked by Tasman as Maatsuyker's
River ; yet this opening was not a river at all, but the
strait which divided the island from the main. The
river being abolished, it became necessary to name the
island ; but Maatsuyker* could not be honoured in this
instance, as his ugly name had been conferred upon
some island in Tasmania. Sweers was the next name
on the list of Tasman's instructions, so the island was
so called. The name is not pretty, but it is easily pro
nounced ; and if it would only mean something more
characteristic than a Dutchman in knickerbockers, to
which the island does not bear the smallest resemblance,
the name would do very well.
The strait between Sweers' Islands and the main
seemed to afford a good place for an anchorage, if water
could be found ; and here Flinders determined to fill the
hold, and caulk the ship, if he could get a snug berth
for the purpose. There were other islands near, Ben-
tinck's Isle and Allen's Isle. Sweers' Island did not
possess surface water, so Flinder anchored under Allen's
Isle. Here he landed.
It was about four or five miles in length ; and though
generally barren, there was tolerable grass upon it in
places, with bushes and small trees. The land was low,
but the south-east end terminated in a cliff, with deeper
* Maatsuyker was one of the counsellors who signed Tasman's instructions
in 1644. Sweers was another of the same council of Batavia.

154 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
water around it than used generally to be found in this
part of the gulf. After taking a set of bearings, Flinders
left the naturalists to follow their pursuits, while he
rowed to the north, intending to go quite round the
island. But this project was soon stopped. A very
long impassable reef was found stretching out to sea, so
that there was no chance of going round it. There was
a smaller island to the eastward, which seemed worth
examining, and Flinders went towards it. As he came
closer, natives were perceived. The water was too shal
low for even the boat to get near them, but he landed
at a little distance, and walked after three men who
were dragging six small rafts towards the extreme
southern rocks, where other natives were sitting. The
rafts seemed very important to them, because, rather
than abandon them, they submitted to an almost equal
evil, which was — an interview with the white men.
One of the boat's crew advanced towards them unarmed,
and made signs to them to abandon their spears. They
understood it, however, as an invitation to sit down,
which they did. By degrees, a friendly intercourse was
established between them. They accepted some red
worsted caps and fillets, as also a hatchet and an adze.
The use of the latter they learned very readily. In
return, they gave some of their spears. The rafts were
miserably constructed ; they consisted of several straight,
dried branches of mangrove, lashed together with the
broadest ends all one way, so as to give it the shape of
a fan. Near the broad end was a bunch of grass, where
the rower sat to paddle, but it swam so deep that his
body was partly under water. Upon one of the rafts
was a large open net, apparently intended for catching
turtle ; upon another was a small shark, and these with
their weapons comprised all their worldly riches.
During Flinders' absence, water was found under a
hill (named Inspection Hill), on Bentinck's Island. The
vessel was anchored there immediately, and the place
called Investigator Roads. It has been a very im
portant part of Carpentaria in its subsequent history.
It was there that the Beagle anchored during the survey
of Captain Stokes; and it was there that the Victoria

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 155
steam-sloop was anchored during the whole of the time
that a search was being made for Burke and Wills.
It has been mentioned that it was thought neces
sary to caulk the Investigator while at anchor in this
bay. Such a precaution had become very necessary.
Every day the leaky state of the ship had been getting
from bad to worse, and now it required constant work
at the pumps to keep her afloat at all. On the 23rd
November, therefore, the ship was removed to within
two cables' length of the west point of the island, near
to a spring, and an examination of the cause of the leak
commenced. As they inspected, report after report was
brought to Flinders of rotten places found in various
parts of the timbers, until it became quite alarming.
At length, he directed such repairs to be made as were
indispensable, and to report about the whole state of the
ship. The report came in two days. It consisted, not
in an examination of the parts of the ship which were
rotten, but a very short list of the few timbers which
wrere still sound ; in fact, it was a wonder that she kept
afloat so long ; much longer she certainly would not.
This intelligence surprised and distressed the anxious
explorers. It surprised them that a ship in such a state
should have been equipped for a long voyage by the
Admiralty, pronounced sea- worthy, and every way fit
for the service ; it distressed them to think how they
should ever manage to get home in her. Poor Flinders
could not, however, bring himself to turn back at this
early stage of his discoveries ; but it was evident that
he could not stay long. There was a prospect of a
continuance of fine weather during the north-west mon
soons, and he determined to see that out, at any rate ; and
then, if the vessel would stand it, to go to Port Jackson,
and, if not, to make an attempt to reach the East
Indies. There was a good deal of risk in all this, but
what had he not risked in the same cause heretofore ?
He was sanguine as to his success, so he continued his
voyage. " The observations made upon the islands were of
little interest. The basis rock was an ironstone, and
above this was a concreted mass of sand, shells, and

156 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
corals ; over all was either sand, vegetable mould, or
a mixture of both. These appeared to be the constitu
ents of all the islands ; but there were, of course, local
variations. Water was obtained by digging to a mode
rate depth on Bentinck's Island. There was a small
growth of trees and bushes — Eucalyptus, Casuarina, and
Pandanus — but very little vegetation in the form of
grass ; and yet the botanists made fine harvests of new
species of plants upon these islands. No land animal
nor reptile was seen.
Natives there were in abundance, but they always
avoided the explorers, and sometimes disappeared in a
manner which seemed quite extraordinary. This
mystery was explained before the crew left the island.
They found caves for concealment dug into the ground ;
sometimes with two compartments in them, each large
enough for a man to lie down in.
It is worthy of remark, also, that some of the natives
seen at these islands had lost two of their front uppeV
teeth. This deformity is always adopted by the men,
on arriving at the age of puberty, at Port Jackson.
But it is singular that no such custom prevails among
the coast tribes, north or south, until it reappears upon
the north coast. It is practised, too, among the north
western tribes ; and besides appearing at intervals on
the south coast, it is found here and there among the
inland tribes. The object of this custom is unknown.*
On Sweers' Island several skulls and some human
bones were found lying together near three ex
tinguished fires. There were also some other relics,
which excited much attention at the time. Thus, a
piece of teak-wood, which had evidently formed part
of a ship's deck, and the stumps of about twenty trees,
which had been cut down with an axe or some sharp
iron instrument. What these signs could mean, they
* I once knew a black fellow of Mount Gambier, who was one of the very
few of his tribe who were thus disfigured. He told me that it signified that he
had killed his enemy and eaten him. The rite of circumcision is also practised
by most of the natives of the north coast ; but this they may have derived from
the Mahomuiedan Malays which visit the coast. Not that this is very
probable, for the Australian savage is very conservative, and rarely introduces
new ceremonials.

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 157
were quite at a loss to guess. They were too recent
to have been done by the Dutch ; neither were there
sufficient signs to warrant them in supposing that there
had been a wreck here. And yet it was almost certain
that no European visitors had come on an exploring
expedition. A little later this mystery was explained.
The whole of the marks had been left by the Malays,
who occasionally visit this part of the coast. How
Flinders discovered this fact will be related presently.
On the 1st December, the ship was got under weigh,
in order to get in with the mainland, to the west of
Bentinck's Island. But the water was still too shallow.
They then steered north-west ; and at noon Cape Van
Diemen was in sight, supposed to be part of the main
land. It proved, however, to be an island, which was
distinguished by the name of Mornington Island ; and
the whole of the group around it was called Wellesley's
Islands. One of these proved a most valuable resource
to the ship's crew, from the immense number of turtles
and turtles' eggs which were there' procured. It was,
in gratitude, named Bountiful Island. The manner in
which these creatures abounded was perfectly marvel
lous. They were first noticed on the beach ; and very
much disappointed were the sailors, who leapt out of
their boats to seize them, and found them lying upon
their backs, dead and rotten, having fallen into that
position, and perished miserably in trying to climb the
steep cliffs of the island.* But there were plenty
without these. Several were swimming about the boat,
three of which Were easily secured, and might have
been secured still more easily ; for Flinders tells us
dolefully that the men broke his harpoon without the
smallest necessity. Upon landing, the upper part of
the beach was seen to be full of holes ; the men
were not long applying hands to their further investi
gation. From one alone they filled a hat with turtles'
eggs. The others afforded quite as large a supply.
* A fact for the notice of geologists. These animals' remains would be, in
course of time, buried in the mud and silt, to be hereafter dug out as fossils.
Should a question arise how so many of one kind of fossil were found together,
or why the ventral part of the fossil carapace was always upwards, here the
answer is seen. I believe there are such facts in geology.

158 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
What a blow to the unpublished generations of Carpen-
tarian turtles ! It appeared, however, that the sailors
were not the only enemies which these unhappy che-
lonia had to complain of. The island was covered
with small birds about the size of a hen (a kind of
bustard), and their business was to find an opening for
a young turtle (in his shell), through which he was
remorselessly devoured. As soon, therefore, as the
turtle emerged from the egg, and awoke to the realities
of life, he had to run down to the beach as fast as a
turtle could be supposed to go, and plunge into the
water ; otherwise he fell a victim. But he was not
safe even here. Tiger sharks were numerous, and so
voracious that they could be caught with a bare hook ;
these were quite ready to propose another opening to
young turtles — ay, and old ones, too ; for Flinders tells
us that one full-grown turtle was caught which had
lost a circular piece out of his shell, equal to one-tenth
of his bulk, which had been bitten out of its side.
Truly, it is a wonder that, between bustard, sharks,
and ships, there is such a repository for these reptilia
as Bountiful Island. One word, however, on behalf of
the sharks : unless the evidence was very clear that
the piece of shell was bitten out, and not knocked out,
I should certainly incline to acquit any mouth, except
the mouth of a river in flood ; and unless the bites
were known to be a shark, it would, at any rate, afford
a much stronger case against an alligator.
The island was nearly three miles long, and gene
rally low and sandy. The highest parts were ridges
of sand, overspread with long, creeping, coarse grass,
which binds the sand together, and prevents its being
blown away. Other grasses grew in lower parts of the
island ; but in only one place were there any shrubs
and trees. There were no signs that the land had
ever been visited by the natives ; but as the distance
from Mornington Island was about twelve miles, this is
easily accounted for, taking into consideration the
wretched rafts they possess.
The examination of these isles occupied until the
7th December, on which day they sailed away with

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED.' 159
forty-six turtles, sprawling on their backs in the hold,
the smallest weighing 260 lbs., and the heaviest 300 lbs.
Mornington Island was the largest of the isles ; it had
white cliffs on a sandy beach upon its north side ; but
the south was as sandy and barren as the other islands.
The mainland, from the islands to the anchorage, on the
8th, was of the same description as that along which
they had previously sailed, for now nearly six hundred
miles. Need it be said, again, that the shores were
low and woody, fronted by a lower sandy or muddy
beach. There were some slight wavings in the coast
line, but so slight that no part of it could be used twice
as a bearing-point in the survey. But a change was
beginning to appear inland, at least : a range of low
hills were perceived, and now at last the shore showed
some sinuosities.
At sunset, a small hillock was seen in the latitude
corresponding with the Van Alphen River of the
Dutch ; but, as Flinders thought, a sandbank stretching
across made it inaccessible from the sea. Next day,
the coast tended slightly northward, and the vessel
passed along it until about eight in the evening. At
that time the depth diminished suddenly from three-
and-a-half to two-and-a-half fathoms; and before the
helm could be put down, the ship struck upon a rock,
and hung abaft : an awful shock this was to a captain
who knew his ship's timbers to be only kept afloat by
the mere forbearance of the water. The sails were
kept full, and the ship appeared for a time irresolute,
and then swung into deep water. Fancy how all the
crew drew a deep breath ! — but not for long. Bump
again went the ship, and every timber cracked and
rattled like windows in a thunder-storm. But she
swung off this again ; and, with one more slight touch
or graze for her keel, she was kept in deep water, and
sailed on. Fortunately the water was very smooth at
the time, and no great damage was done. The vessel
leaked as much as ever, but not more.
Their distance from the shore next morning was
about three miles. It was very low, and broken with
dry rocks and banks, and in the space of five or six

160 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
miles they counted five small openings, behind which
lagoons were seen. Abel Tasman's River was marked
about this place, but no large stream could be observed.
Possibly Tasman's River and the Roper are identical ;
the latter was not discovered until many years after
wards by Leichhardt, and its mouth is, as yet, quite
unknown. On the 12th, they closed in with higher land than
any they had yet seen. This proved to be an island,
and was called Vanderlin's Island; it was one of a
group which was named after Sir Edward Pellew.
The space occupied by this group was considerable, and
took some time for its complete examination. One of
the islands afforded good shelter, besides wood and
water, and the vessel was anchored within a small
harbour for some days. While astronomical observa
tions were made on board the ship, Flinders went upon
a boat excursion round the islands.
They afforded considerable interest as far as the
naturalists were concerned, and in other respects were
important. Even some degree of beauty must be
attached to them, as they afforded a subject for
Westall's pencil, which is one of the prettiest pieces of
scenery in Flinders' book. There is a fine, bold, rocky
foreground, supporting a luxuriant growth of large-
leaved shrubs over trailing creepers. Beyond these
again, six tall cabbage palm-trees raise their tapering
graceful stems, telling the tropical nature of the
country beyond all mistake. Finally, in the dis
tance, rise the bright sands or serrated hills of the
islands, which, from their remoteness, look picturesque
and as undisturbed as the placid sea which gently
heaves between.
None of the islands were fertile, though the soil
was an improvement on its neighbours of the gulf;
and there was an abundance of trees and shrubs.
The latter were, as usual, principally Eucalypti, but
small, and those on the east coast of different species.
The cabbage-palm was also a new species, called by
Mr. Brown, the Livistonia inermis. It was abundant ;
but the cabbage (the heart of the young budding

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 101
leaves) too small to be useful as an article of food, at
least, to a ship's company. But the leaves were found
useful. These dried and drawn into strips were
plaited into hats for the men, and to this day the
cabbage-tree hat is very highly esteemed by the
Australians, as a protection from the sun, and allowing
free ventilation.* A nutmeg was found upon Vander
lin's Island, growing upon a large spreading bush.
Its quality could not be estimated, for it was not ripe
when found. Amongst a hundred other novelties
which these islands afforded, one more need only be
mentioned : this was a species of sandalwood ; another
of which is also known to occur in Western Australia.
Its value has never been investigated, because no
further visit has ever been made to these islands,
except, perhaps, by a vessel of war for a day or so.
And yet, in many respects, they form the most im
portant part of the Gulf of Carpentaria. All the larger
islands seemed to possess the kangaroo, but the species
was small. In the woods were hawks and pigeons,
bustards and ducks ; but there were no turtles. Their
tracks were seen, however, and one or two places met
with where the natives had evidently regaled them
selves like aldermen. Both large and small islands
were visited by the natives. Two canoes were found
on the shore. They differed from the rafts or the canoes
of Port Jackson, being much better made. They were
composed of strips of bark laid over one another, like
clinker-built ships, and were sewed neatly enough to
make them water-tight.
Amongst other things found upon these islands was
a very singular native monument, which could not be
explained, and was like nothing else that had been
hitherto seen upon the coast. Under a shed of bark
were set up two cylindrical pieces of stone, about
eighteen inches long, which had been taken from the
beach, evidently made smooth by rolling on the shore,
and were shaped like a ninepin. Round them were
drawn on each end two black circles, and between
* A good cabbage-tree hat, though it very much resembles a common
straw hat, will fetch as much as £3.
VOL. I. M

162 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
these, four oval black patches, carefully made with
charcoal. The spaces between the oval marks were
covered with white down and feathers, apparently stuck
on with the yolk of a turtle's egg, many shells of which
lay about. The only explanation of this singular me
morial was, perhaps, that it was a mortuary monument.
To settle this question, the ground was dug all round,
but nothing was found. It was not, however, certain
that it was the work of natives, for here again were seen
the indications of the visit of some foreign people.
Besides pieces of earthen jars, and trees cut with axes,
the explorers found remnants of bamboo lattice-work,
palm-leaves sewed with cotton-thread into Chinese
i hats, and the remains of some blue cotton trowsers.
A wooden anchor, with one fluke, and three boat
rudders of violet wood, were also found.
The ship was occupied in obtaining wood and water
until the 27th December, when she again sailed along
the coast. It had not as yet altered much from its
character hitherto, except that in places it was rocky.
On the last day of the year, 1802, they sighted Cape
Maria. This was found to be an island. Td the west
of it was marked a large bay or bight, called by the
Dutch, Limmen's Bight, where the coast turns north
east to a projecting cape, which had a shoal forty miles
in length running out from it. Between this shoal and
Cape Maria, a small island was laid down. In these par
ticulars, Tasman's chart was found to be quite correct.
The length of the island was about seven miles, by
a variable width of from one to four miles. A slaty rock
formed its basis, and the surface was hilly, covered
with wood and grass growing up from among the loose
stones. Notwithstanding its barren soil, the appear
ance from the ship was green and pleasant. It was
inhabited, and many a curling column of smoke showed
that the explorers were also an object of attention from
the natives. It was cheering to see a sign of life, even
though that life were so extremely savage. For no
conception can be gathered of what the solitude of
this place must have seemed to the first explorers.
The low, slimy, desolate nature of the main was gloomy

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 163
enough ; but then, to come on island after island, all
deserted and lonely, to see the only beauties of nature,
with such richness of animal creation, and to recognise,
too, that man was excluded from it all, made the place
wearisome from its combination of solitudes.
In steering on to Groote Eylandt, many small
isles were found, upon one of which, Bickerton's
Island, Flinders again landed with the naturalist.
He found several fresh plants, and a lake of beautiful
water — unfortunately the first feature of the kind
which they had met with since rounding Cape York.
Another island was called Chasm Island, in consequence
of the large chasms noticed in the rocks upon it. In
the steep sides of these were deep holes or caverns
undermining the cliffs, upon the walls of which were
found rude drawings made with charcoal and some
thing like red paint, upon the white ground of the
rock. These drawings represented porpoises, turtles,
kangaroos, and a human hand. Mr. Westall, who
went afterwards to see them, found the representation
of a kangaroo, with a file of thirty-two persons follow
ing after it. The third person of the band was twice
the height of the others, and held in his hand something
resembling the wooden sword of the natives of Port
Jackson. It will be seen, as this history goes on, that such
drawings and paintings have been found in great
numbers upon the north and west coast. They always
have a red hand amid other figures, and some of them
are well executed and highly coloured. They are,
evidently, of great antiquity, and refer to a time when
these savages wore clothes, because some of the figures
are draped in a long tunic from head to foot. It is
singular, too, that the aborigines of the present day
never attempt drawing of any kind upon the caves
around them.
No natives were seen upon any of the islands,
though much smoke was observed, and the skeletons
of some standing upright were found in the hollow
stumps of trees, with the skulls and bones smeared red
and white. M 2

164 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
The situation of the bay in which Groote Eylandt
occurs, led Flinders to give it the name of North- West
Bay. There were many other islands besides the large
one, all consisting of a close-grained red sandstone,
with large quartz grains embedded. Wherever the
explorers landed, the surface was so very stony that
the soil was completely hidden ; yet at a little distance
inland, there were gentle elevations which were well
clothed with timber. The central hill of Groote
Eylandt appeared to be about eight hundred feet high,
and about nine miles from the shore. To the west of
the islands an extensive bay occurred in the coast, and
some islands outside the Bustard Island made the
shelter very complete.
So deep was the bay that no land could be seen at
the bottom. Flinders, as may be imagined, steered in
with no small interest. Here was, probably, a great
river; but, if not, at any rate, there would be an
¦opportunity to land, which would be the first given by
the main shore since the ship had left the east side of
the gulf. A very short distance showed them that they
could not expect a river, but it was a fine bay which
stretched round in the far distance, to a mountain
named Mount Grindall.
A party of men were sent off to cut wood the next
morning, and others to haul the seine, while the
botanist went about the shrubs, and Flinders took his
bearings. Every one was armed, because the shore
seemed inhabited, though they were on one of the
islands. As Flinders returned to the rest of the men,
he saw them following some natives, and, on inquiry,
he heard they had given chase to Mr. Westall. On at
tempting to parley with them, they made a sudden attack
upon Mr. Whitelock, a petty officer, and as his gun
missed_ fire they plunged four spears into his body.
This time the natives escaped untouched; but upon
their attempting to renew the contest in the evening,
two were shot dead as they were paddling away in
their canoes. The canoe was of bark, but not of one
piece as at Sydney, but of two sewed together length
wise. The two ends were also sewed up, and made tight

' FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 16
with gum. Before leaving this island, a man named
Morgan died in a few hours from the effects of a sun
stroke, and hence the island received his name.
The bay was seen from the island, and its general
character well made out. It was evident from the
extreme shallowness of the water that it did not receive
any stream of consequence. The land seemed to rise
very gradually from the water, very different, however,
from the rest of Carpentaria, for it seemed well wooded
and actually fertile. It was named Blue Mud Bay, from
the nature of the bottom.
The survey of the bay lasted until the 26th, when
they sailed past Mount Grindall. The bight extended
beyond this, and a small running stream was found
near, terminating in a swamp. Flinders went to the
top of the mount. The view was extensive. He had
but to cut down some few trees which hindered the
prospect, and then he looked down upon a finely diver
sified scene, in which the island he had left formed
the principal part. It was not exactly what one could
call a fine view, unless the island had been more fertile
and the land better grassed, but it was better than the
rest of Carpentaria ; better than that eternal low land
and mud, which possessed only one redeeming point,
and that was that there was no eminence amid it all,
whence all its deformity could be perceived in one view.
The top of the mount consisted of the same sand
stone, with particles of quartz, as that seen at Groote
Eylandt ; but the shore was different. There was gra
nite, with large scales of mica, which sparkled very
much. There was very little soil upon the sur
rounding land, the surface being either sandy or stony.
It was, however, pretty well covered with grass and
wood, and amongst the trees was a new species of
Eugenia, which supplied the boat's crew with abun
dance of what the sailors called apples. Not that the
fruit bore the slightest resemblance to apples, but some
latitude must be allowed to the men, since Flinders
called all the natives Indians, both names being given
much upon the principle which made our forefathers
call all foreigners Frenchmen.

166 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
On the 2nd February they saw two islands, marked
by the Dutch on their chart, lying off a projection
named Point Grey. The land from Mount Grindall to
this cape was a mere succession of sand-hills, with
shallow bights between them. The hills further back
seemed better covered with wood, but still barren. Off
the coast, further west, were islands and rocks out of
number. To describe them all would be like writing a
dictionary. It is likewise useless to tell the points and
capes, and bluffs and promontories off which they lay.
To say all that was done by the crew meanwhile would
be to realize again the tedium of Flinders's labours.
But they were not light or trifling, as the number of
bearings or the information contained in the charts can
amply testify. What made it, if anything, somewhat
more exciting to the actual explorers, was the leaky and
rotten state of the ship, which kept them from day to
day in a wholesome state of excitement and active pre
paration for any disaster which might happen. To say
that all this required courage, zeal, and immense patient
coolness, will be to repeat what is well known ; but, at
least, the interest yet lingering about their researches
will be the best answer to the question why they risked
it still. The next bay they came to was named Caledon Bay.
The country around it was low, with one or two higher
hills projecting. One of them — Mount Caledon — was
granite, but the rest was the usual red-grained sandstone.
The land seemed poor, but was well timbered, and
what made it seem better in the eyes of the explorers,
was the large number of natives seen about. These
were shy, but at length disposed to communicate, in
return for which condescension they stole an axe and a
musket. Flinders detained one of them for two days,
in the hope of getting back the missing articles, but
the blacks valued their novelties a great deal more than
they did their companion, so Flinders released him. All
those who came to the tent had lost the upper front
tooth on the left side, while at Port Jackson it is the
right tooth which is knocked out. Only one woman
was seen, and this at a distance. She wore a piece

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 167
of bark, while the men wore no covering at all ; but
they usually had a bandage of network round the arm,
in which was stuck a short piece of strong grass, which
they used as a toothpick. All the natives here seemed
to have undergone the rite of circumcision.
In this bay they obtained renewed evidence of the
occasional visits of some strangers ; and from the ges
tures of the natives it was apparent that they had seen
firearms used before. They imitated the act of shooting,
and when Flinders first landed they made signs to fire
his musket, without the least appearance of alarm.
Under these circumstances it was rather unfortunate
that they should have stolen a weapon whose use they
so well understood, especially when there was a chance
of their getting powder from the strangers, who
ever they might be. A quantity of posts were found
lying near the water, which had evidently been cut
down with sharp iron instruments ; and when the
explorers inquired about them, the blacks imitated the
motion of an axe with their hands, and then stopping,
frequently exclaimed " Pooh ! " If they did not mean
the same as we should by such an exclamation, it was
evident, at all events, that they held the strangers in
contempt. Flinders sailed on the 10th February, and at day
light next morning the shore was found to be four or
five miles distant. The furthest part then visible was
near the eastern extremity of Arnhem's Land, and this,
having no name in the Dutch chart, was called Caj^e
Arnhem. From Caledon Bay to this cape there is
nearly thirty miles of waving sandy coast. Only one
opening was noticed in it. This was on the south side
of a cliffy point, with two small islets lying off it. At
noon, the furthest land visible was a flat-topped hill,
which was called Mount Saunders ; and near it was one
still flat-topped, but higher, steep on its north side, and
covered with trees. This was Mount Dundas. These
table-hills showed that they had left the low sands of
Carpentaria, and were now renewing the bold declivi
ties of the eastern cordillera. Central Australia was
commencing to reveal its character, and these flat-

168 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
topped hills, which seemed so new and so agreeable to
the explorers, after coming round such a level and
monotonous shore, would, in turn, have become mono
tonous and weary had they pursued their researches
much further. Beyond these mounts the coast took a
northerly direction. This made a bay on the shore, at
which Flinders and his botanist landed.
There was nothing very unusual in this opening
— called Melville Bay. It is worth while remarking the
names of Saunders, Melville, and Dundas, with which
Flinders was so anxious to honour one of the Lords of
the Admiralty ; and yet this very lord was, about this
time, misappropriating the Admiralty funds, and it was
probably owing to such misappropriation that Flinders,
with all his self-sacrifice for his nation, had only a few
rotten planks between him and eternity. This harbour
had been unnoticed by the Dutch, though it was the
finest they had met with in Carpentaria. It must, how
ever, be admitted that, though true, yet the bay is a
most undesirable one. Beyond a low isthmus in it, a
piece of water was seen communicating with the south
eastern part of the bay, and making a peninsula of
some high rocky land, named Drummie Head. At high
water this was an island.
The shore on the north side of Melville Bay was
granite, with coarse garnets, which were large, and gave
the stone a plum-pudding appearance. Over the gra
nite was some fine calcareous rock. The rocks were
clayey or slaty on the south side, and on this and the
eastern side was the only rich soil about the bay, though
in general it was well grassed ; better, in fact, than any
place hitherto seen by the explorers. The trees were
finer and of different species from that of the south of
the gulf. A sandalwood was also found, nearer allied
to the wood of commerce than what had been already
procured. Altogether this bay seems to be one of the
most desirable which Flinders had met for Europeans to
settle upon. On the 16th they quitted it, passing its
most northerly promontory, which was named Cape
Wilber force.
After passing the above cape, the examination of

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 169
the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed. It had taken a
long time to survey it all — its bay and islands — in all
one hundred and five days ; and yet, when the extent
of this great inlet is considered, it is certainly a wonder
that it was finished so soon. The length of this bay is
nearly five hundred miles, its width averaging nearly
three hundred ; while its circuit, including its little
channels and openings, is nearly twelve hundred miles.
These dimensions are probably not well understood
unless they are made clear by some illustration from the
home country. Well, suppose a gulf as long as from
the Isle of Wight to Aberdeen, and as wide as from the
Land's End to the mouth of the Thames — this would
be something near the size of Carpentaria. If America
boasts of having large rivers, at least Australia may
boast of having something like what may be called a
gulf, and we may speculate how long it will be before
such an extent of country is made use of. We might
locate nations, and these without risk of inconvenient
crowding ; and an individual at Cape York, paying a
visit to a friend at Sweers' Island, would undertake a
greater voyage than from London to York ; but, unfor
tunately, the scene would not change very much, and at
either place he must have a powerful eye for the pic
turesque if he could enjoy the prospect.
It may be remarked, says Flinders, that the form of
the gulf given in the old charts was not very erroneous,
proving them to have been the result of a real examina
tion. This certainly was not the general opinion. As
no particulars were known of the discovery of the south
and west parts, nor the name of the author (though,
with great probability, ascribed to Tasman), the chart
was considered as little better than a representation of
Fairy Land.
After leaving the narrow passage between Cape Wil-
berforce and Bromby's Islands, the Investigator steered
along the coast to the south-west. Some high islands
prevented a view very far ahead ; and while endeavour
ing to peer among them to discover a passage, a sight
met Flinders's telescope which rather astonished him.
Crusoe's surprise at seeing the footstep in the sand was

170 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
nothing to his. There, in the most lonely part of Car
pentaria, where even natives had disappeared, and where
the sight of an animal moving seemed almost superna
tural — there, under a rock close by one ofthe islands, a
Chinese boat full of men was perceived. Flinders knew
from the signs he had met with, that some Asiatics must
have been upon the coast at no very remote period ; but
he no more dreamt of meeting them than of meeting a
parish beadle. And, to say the truth, he would much
rather not have met them. There were ugly stories
afloat as to the honesty of Chinese boats in much more
civilized seas than the one he was upon. His ship was
armed, it was true ; but fighting was disagreeable under
any circumstances, especially in a rotten ship. And
even if these strangers were pirates, and did not attack
them, it would require such an amount of attention to
watch them that the survey would be ended.
These were Flinders' feelings as the Investigator
glided towards the place where the boat was lying ; and
a nearer view did not tranquillize him. As he rounded
the point his anxiety was considerably increased. It
was not one boat, but he now beheld six lying snugly
covered like hulks, and anchored at some distance from
the shore. But for the report ofthe natives, about their
having firearms, he might have been off his guard ; but
he now set them down as a set of piratical cruisers, who
secreted themselves here from pursuit, and issued out as
the season permitted or prey invited them.
Impressed with this idea, the Investigator tacked, to
work up for the road, and on the pennant and ensign
being hoisted, each of the ships hung out a small white
flag. Lieutenant Flinders was now sent in an armed
whale-boat to learn who they were, while the ship came
to an anchor, with a spring on the cable, and all hands
at quarters. Every motion in the whale-boat, and in
the vessel alongside which she was lying, was closely
watched, but all seemed to pass quietly until the boat
returned. Lieutenant Flinders informed his captain
that they were prows from Macassar, and the six Malay
commanders came on board shortly afterwards in a
canoe. Fortunately the cook on board the Investigator

'FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 171
was a Malay, and thus in a short time communications
were established.
The chief of the prows was a short elderly man,
named Pobasso. He said that there were sixty canoes
upon the coast, in different divisions, and that Salloo
was the commander-in-chief. These people (I now
quote from Flinders) were Mahometans, and they
expressed great horror, on looking into the launch, to
see pigs there. Yet they had no objection to Port
wine, and even requested a bottle to take with them at
sunset. The object of their expedition was a certain marine
animal, named trepang, beche-de-la-mer, sea cucum
ber, or Holuthurius cucumis, which had been seen first
by the explorer upon the coral reefs, and afterwards had
been dragged up in great quantities by the seine net in
Caledon Bay. The Malays get the trepang by diving
for it in three to eight fathoms ; and where it is abun
dant, a man will bring up eight or ten at a time. They
then preserve them by splitting them and drying them
in the sun, stretched on pieces of bamboo, after being
boiled and pressed between stones. A thousand trepang
make a picol, and one hundred picols is a cargo for a
prow. It is carried to Timor, and sold to the Chinese,
who meet them there ; and when all the fleet is assembled
they return to Macassar.*
Pobasso was very communicative. He said he had
made six or seven voyages from Macassar to this coast
within the preceding twenty years, and he was one of
the first who came : neither had he seen any ship there
before. This latter statement is very important, because
it takes away the only chance of ascribing to Malay
* The Holuthuria belong to the family of Echinoderniata, of which the
sea-egg upon our coast is a familiar example. The body is free, naked, soft,
and thick, with anything but an eatable appearance. What makes them still
more repulsive and disgusting is, that the skin wrinkles about like that of a
leech, and is generally covered with papillary excrescences or warts of different
colours. The head is surrounded with tentacles. They are indolent animals,
but when handled the body contracts, and the tentacles are immediately con
cealed. They usually lie exposed in the shallow waters, or buried in coral
sand, their feathery tentacles being alone exposed. What they live upon is a
mystery, as their intestines generally contain only pellets of coral rock, which
is not very nourishing to an animal which does not secrete a shell.

172 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
origin the curious paintings found in the caves on the
north coast. Of course, Pobasso could not speak for
the whole Malay nation ; but it was very possible, from
the relics found being all of recent origin, and from the
fact of the numerous quantities of trepang still to be
found upon the shores, that the fishery could not have
been going on very long. And yet Australia must
have been well known to the Malays, or else why should
they come there to look for the trepang. Flinders is
right in observing that it will yet become a problem,
how much the peculiar habits of the Northern Austra
lians have been modified by these Mahometans. Cer
tainly the rite of circumcision looks like an intercourse
with them ; but my own impression is, that this custom
dates back to the mysterious darkness of the very origin
of the Australian nation.
The place where the explorers met these singular
fishermen was called the Malay Road. It lies amid a
group of islands, called the English Company's Islands.
Arnhem' s Bay was found a little further on, and then a
third chain of islands, named Wesel's Islands, ran north
and north-eastward from the coast. All these islands
were moderately high, woody land, sloping down to the
water on their west side, but on the east presenting
steep cliffs of close-grained sandstone.
On the 5th of March, when off a point on Wesel's
Islands, Flinders determined to leave the coast, and
return to have his vessel repaired. The south-east mon
soon had commenced, and it was evident that the rotten
ship could not be kept afloat much longer. But this was
not the only consideration : the health of the crew was
in an alarming state. A great many were so incapaci
tated by scurvy that he could not even propose to return
to Sydney without fresh provision. Under these cir
cumstances, and with the greatest regret, he turned his
ship's head away from the coast. Desolate sand, as its
shores were, they were peculiarly dear to him ; and it
was not without a very bitter pang that he saw the
little cliffy islands dropping one by one under the dis
tant horizon as he reluctantly sailed for Timor.
At the island, provisions in abundance were obtained,

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 173
and there seemed every chance that they could very
easily make the long voyage to Port Jackson round by
the west coast. But the fresh provisions did not last
long, and when they ceased, dysentery made its appear
ance among the crew. All haste was made round the
west coast. Only one stoppage was allowed, at Goose
Island, where some birds were expected to be caught ;
but none were found, and this delay, small as it was,
cost the lives of many of the crew. All were sickly, or
utterly stricken down, before they reached the harbour,
which was on the 9th June, 1803, after an absence of
nearly twelve months. Flinders had at least the satis
faction of knowing that he had returned with as much
of the mystery of the coast revealed as it had ever fallen
to the lot of one man to accomplish.
But he himself was far from being satisfied with
the result. He wished to have accomplished much
more. As soon as he returned, he requested the
governor of the colony to give him another ship to
complete his explorations. He would not have asked
so much had the Investigator been fit for any sort of
repair ; but no sooner had she arrived than she was
condemned as utterly unseaworthy. The governor
had, however, no ship to give. There was nothing for
it, therefore, but to go to England, and try to obtain
another vessel from the Admiralty. Leaving the scien
tific portion of his crew behind, he left Port Jackson on
the 12th July, on board the Porpoise, and five days
after, when in lat. 22° 11', long, about 155°, was ship
wrecked upon a reef. There were two other vessels in
company at the time, the Cato and the Bridgewater.
The former became a wreck also on the same bank,
while the latter escaped by a mere chance. The Por
poise kept together well, and the crew were enabled,
besides saving themselves, to save their boats, stores,
and water. The Cato went to pieces immediately, and
two of the boys were drowned. The Bridgewater was
as yet quite safe, and in the morning was seen close at
hand by the shipwrecked crew. After tacking to and
fro, and keeping the sailors in an agony of suspense,
the captain, to his eternal shame, proceeded on his

174 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
voyage, without even sending a boat to learn the fate of
his companions. It, however, profited him but little.
He arrived in India, whence he sailed for Europe, and
neither he nor his ship was ever heard of afterwards.
Meanwhile, the shipwrecked crew were all rescued.
Flinders, as usual, was a man fit for the occasion . He soon
equipped the Porpoise's long boat, and steered for Port
Jackson in her. He reached Sydney in safety, after much
suffering. His information at once procured him assist
ance from the governor ; and, with two small ships, he
proceeded to the reef and brought off all his companions.
One of the two ships was a colonial schooner of only
twenty-nine tons ; in fact, but very little larger than a
small river boat. In this he resolved to proceed to
England. The enterprise was rather too much for so
small a ship, and she had not got beyond the Mauritius
when she sadly wanted repairs. Relying upon his
passport as an explorer, he landed on the island. It
was a sad day for him when he did so. He was imme
diately taken prisoner, and treated as an impostor. At
first, his story was not credited at all, but when his
papers showed the truth of his statement, he was
accused of being a spy. This accusation was easily
refuted, but he was still detained. For six years he
remained a prisoner upon the island. We can guess
why. At that very time the Emperor Napoleon was
obliging Admiral Baudin to usurp the glory of his
discoveries. At last, the day of delivery came. Poor
Flinders set about editing his journals and preparing
the result of his researches for the press. His name
had been forgotten during his long imprisonment, but
he relied upon these papers to restore all his obscured
renown. He was destined never to see it. The very
day on which his work was published he died.
There is no single explorer to which Australia owes
so much as to Flinders, and none who was allowed to
work so completely unrewarded. A monument has
been erected to his memory in Port Lincoln, but his
name is his only reward. To show how little his deeds
benefited his surviving relatives, it is only a very
short time ago that a niece of his applied for an assisted

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 175
passage, as an emigrant, to the colony of New South
Wales. Nothing can be done to reward him now except
in perpetuating his name. Let us, at least, give him
that reward. Australia never had an explorer like him,
either in the accuracy of his surveys, or the boldness
and untiring energy of his undertakings. It is one of
the most indelible stains upon the reign of Napoleon
that such a man was arrested, employed as he was, at
the risk of life and health, in researches which were to
benefit all mankind. But to detain him, and try to
filch from him his hard-earned renown, was beyond all
description' mean and despicable. How contemptible do
the paltry excuses in the Moniteur, for his detention,
now appear. But it is too late for regrets and indig
nation. The most generous, most learned, and yet
most modest Australian explorer, fell a victim to his
misfortunes, and died, there is every reason to believe,
broken-hearted. *
In the meantime, while Flinders was pursuing his
explorations, a settlement was made at Port Phillip, in
1803, and the preceding August another settlement was
established at Risdon, on the east bank of the Derwent,
in Tasmania. The Port Phillip settlement did not
succeed. The site was thought to be unhealthy, and
water was difficult to obtain. Nothing of any import
ance connected with exploration occurred during its
short existence. A boat excursion was made by Lieut.
Tuckey, but no new information was gained by it. By
the end of June, 1804, the whole settlement was
removed to the present site of Hobart Town. At the
same time, a northern settlement was formed by Colonel
Patterson, on the north coast, near the west arm of the
Tamar River. This was called York Town, Port Dal-
rymple. It was not, however, until three years after
that a communication was established overland between
the two places.
It should be remarked, that the settlement at Port
Phillip had been sent out direct from England, and was
* What a fatality seems to pursue these explorers. The monument to the
memory of Flinders, at Port Lincoln, was erected by Sir John Franklin, when
he was Governor of Tasmania.

176 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
entirely composed of convicts. It was, in fact, just like
the settlement of Port Jackson, in _ 1788. Britain
seemed to have recognised it as a principle, that as soon
as pickpockets and political offenders had reached a
certain number in the gaols, they were to be sent off to
any convenient part of the unknown coast, there to
flourish or die, as they might feel inclined. While the
establishment remained at Port Phillip, several convicts
escaped. Yery little trouble was taken about them,
because the authorities saw very clearly, that if they
found it difficult to live in a place where was plenty of
provisions, they would find it much harder to make the
experiment where there was none. And so the majority
of them did ; all, in fact, but one. This was a man of
gigantic stature, named Buckley, who escaped with two
companions. They wandered about pretty contented
at first, but their sufferings soon commenced. Food
and water were neither of them procurable. After
great privations, Buckley separated from his companions,
to return to the settlement. He saw them no more, and
when he got back the station was deserted. Completely
broken in spirit, and wishing only for death to relieve
his torture, he wandered about for months. Having
found the grave of a native, with the swords and spears
of the deceased placed above, according to their custom,
he took some of them for his own defence, and shortly
after he met with a tribe of natives.
The weapons saved his life. The savages recognised
them at once, and imagined that poor Buckley was the
deceased come to life again. They therefore adopted
him into^the tribe. For thirty-three years he remained
amongst them. Little by little he lost every trace of
civilization, and finally forgot his own language. Once
only had he seen white faces during all this long period.
While he was upon the beach one day, a ship anchored
close alongside. Buckley came down to the shore, with
every desire to communicate. A boat put off, and a
party came ashore to bury the body of a seaman. Poor
Buckley made every effort to make himself known, but
all in vain. The boat's crew took him simply for a
friendly native, and disregarding his imploring looks,

FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS CONCLUDED. 177
left him among the savages. He was recovered from
the natives in 1836, when Port Phillip was colonized.
He died from an accident, in 1857. An account ofhis
life with the natives has been published, but it affords
very little information concerning their habits.
It yet remains to describe the further progress of
Baudin's expedition, one vessel of which was met by
Flinders in Encounter Bay. There is not much dis
covery to be attributed to them. They proceeded along
a great deal of coast previously unknown, on the north
and west sides of Australia, but their zeal for explora
tion was not by any means proportionate to the means
at their disposal. They kept so far from the coast on
the north side of the continent that only a very small
portion of it could be laid down upon their chart, and
even this small portion was not correct, because nume
rous islands were described as part of the mainland.
They came much nearer to the north-west coast, but
this was unfortunately one of the most barren parts,
and one wliich had been previously seen by Tasman and
Dampier. They had only therefore the poor satisfac
tion of describing a low coast of merely a succession of
sand-hills. They named all the leading features from
Cape Leveque to the North- West Cape, which large
tract is so monotonously uniform, that it need not be
further particularized.
They also found a new opening into Sharks' Bay,
which was called the Geographe Channel, and it was
in this bay that they found the records of the visits of
Dirk Hartog in 1618, and Ylamingh in 1696. The
passage into the bay, between Dirk Hartog's and Dorre
Island, was named the Naturaliste Channel. Gantheaume
Bay was found further to the south, but the opening of
the Murchison River was not noticed.
After proceeding along a coast already described by
the Dutch, they reached that portion which lies to the
south of Swan River. They there discovered a large
inlet, lying parallel to the coast ; this was named Port
Leschenault. From this the shore trended round to the
westward, so as to form a large bay, and make an im
portant addition to the features of the west coast. It
VOL. I. N

178 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was called Geographe Bay, and the extreme westerly
part, Cape Naturaliste. From this point the coast trended,
in a very unbroken line, to the southward, affording no
shelter whatever to ships, and exposing a high, un
broken, rocky face, to the lashings of the western sea.
The interior was elevated, apparently densely wooded,
but with not much grass. The only remarkable pro
jections upon it were Capes Clairault and Frecynet,
until the last point of the survey was reached — Cape
Hamelin, which lies north-west of Cape Leeuwin.
This part of the coast had also been surveyed by the
Dutch, though but little of their discoveries were known
to the world. The French surveys were, however, not
much more useful, because as they kept too far from
the coast to make detailed observations, the charts
could hardly be relied upon. M. Peron, who wrote the
account of the voyage, frequently deplores the want of
zeal in their commander ; and though the weather on
the north coast was rather foggy, and somewhat
dangerous, there can be no doubt that he let a glorious
opportunity for discovery slip through his hands. But
it must be said that the fault entirely lay with the com
mander, for the crew were zealous and anxious to do
more. French marine surveys in Australia had been
hitherto very accurate, and therefore the neglect of
this occasion is all the more to be deplored. In the
surveys of Admiral D'Entrecasteaux we have a speci
men of what might have been done with a better man
than Admiral Baudin.

179

CHAPTER VIII.
THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED. •
BarreiUer and Caley fail in their attempts to cross the Blue Mountains — Descrip
tion of them — Mitchell — Darwin — Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth, at
length cross — Evans discovers Bathurst — Campbell River — The Mac
quarrie River — Governor Macquarrie's journey — Evans discovers the
Lachlan.
For some years after the time of Flinders, the colonists
of New South Wales felt very little interest in the
subject of exploration. The coast near them was pretty
well known, and this was all they cared about, because
the interior was deemed inaccessible. The Blue Moun
tains reared their sandstone escarpments close to Syd
ney, and, with dark chasms and gloomy ravines, defied
all passage further. It was only after many failures,
that all attempts to explore them were abandoned.
That of Bass has been already mentioned. Another
was made shortly afterwards (in 1802), by Lieutenant
BarreiUer, but he soon returned as others had done,
completely baffled. A year or two afterwards, a Mr.
Caley tried again, and though he proceeded much
further than any before him, yet he failed at last, and,
like his predecessors, was obliged to return.
It may seem singular that any such difficulty should
exist, or why, in the whole extent of a mountain range,
some means of climbing it could not be found ; but the
fact of their inaccessibility is so certain, that the wonder
is how any person could have penetrated into them
at all. Readers will see this very clearly, as further
explorations are described ; in the meantime descrip
tion of these ranges will be given. It is by one
who knew them well, for he had surveyed their fast
nesses on many different occasions ; he was surveyor-
general of the colony, and, as an explorer, takes one of
N 2

180 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the leading places in this history. This was Sir Thomas
Mitchell, and he thus describes a journey he made into
some of the gorges of the Blue Mountains.
" We now entered the county of Cook, so named
because the lofty summits of its ranges must have been
the first land which met the eye of the celebrated navi
gator, on his first approach to the eastern coast. Here
again we meet with that precipitous inaccessible kind of
country which distinguished the sandstone formation
which is so extensive in Australia. This for a long time
confined the colonists of New South Wales within the
line of the Hawkesbury, until the want of fresh pastures
compelled them to explore these rocky ranges. One
party succeeded in the attempt to penetrate to the
country westward of the ranges, by following the con
tinuous line of high land which separates the valley of
the river from the valley of the River Grose. This
was the direction of the road. The ravines on each
side did not admit of much deviation from the line,
although it had been much improved, expecially in the
ascent to the mountains above, and in the descent on
the other side. The upper region once gained presents
considerable uniformity of feature, at least along the
connecting ridge, the rise being gradual from a height of
about 1000 feet above Emu Plains, to 3400 feet at its
maximum, near King's Table Land, twenty-five miles
further westward. This mass of sandstone is seamed by
ravines, deep in proportion to the height, which increased
to the above extent as we proceeded westward, until the
profound depth of the valleys adjacent to the Weather
board Inn, and Blackheath, enclosed by rocky precipices,
imparts a wild grandeur to the scenery of a very un
common character. The whole mass consists of a ferru
ginous sandstone, composed of angular or slightly worn
grains of quartz, cemented by oxide of iron. There is
scarcely a particle of land along the whole line of road,
which is fit for cultivation. One solitary spot rather
better than the rest, has been wisely appropriated for
an inn — an establishment very conveniently placed for
travellers, as it is about half-way across these mountains.
The height above the sea at this inn is about 2800 feet,

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED. 181
and the clouds and temperature give it the climate of
England. " It is a remarkable fact, that the mouths of these
stupendous ravines are extremely narrow ; some idea
also may be formed of their intricate character from the
difficulty experienced by the surveyors in endeavouring
to obtain access to Mount Hay. Mr. Dixon, in an
unsuccessful attempt, penetrated to the valley of the
Grose, until then unexplored, and when he at length
emerged from the ravines in which he had been be
wildered four days, without even reaching Mount Hay,
he thanked God (to use his own expression, in an official
letter) that he had found his way out of them.
" Mr. Govett was afterwards employed to make a
detailed survey of the various ramifications, by mapping
each in succession from the general line of road. Then
at length, by a patient survey of the whole, he ascer
tained the ridge connected with Mount Hay, and was
the first to ascend it. The view from that summit is
very extensive, and the scenery immediately around it
very wild, consisting of stupendous perpendicular cliffs,
at the foot of which the silvery hue of the Grose, at a
depth of 3000 feet, meanders through a green valley,
into which neither the colonists nor their cattle have
yet (1839), penetrated.
" Having looked into this valley from the summit of
Tomah, in 1827, I was tempted soon after to endeavour
to explore it by ascending the river, from its junction
with the Hawkesbury, near Richmond ; but I had not
proceeded far in this attempt, accompanied by Major
Lockyer and Mr. Dixon, when we were compelled to
leave our horses, and soon after to scramble on hands
and feet until at length even our quadrumanous pro
gress was arrested by pebbles in the bed of the river,
which were as large as houses, and round, over, or
between which we found it impossible to proceed." *
These valleys are also spoken of by Mr. Darwin, in.
his " Naturalist's Voyage." This description is so much
more graphic, and gives one so much better an idea of
* Mitchell's Narrative.

182 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the nature of these glens, that I am tempted to add a
few paragraphs.
" About a mile and a half," he says, " from the little
inn, called the Weatherboard, the country is elevated 2800
feet above the sea. Following down a little valley and
its tiny rill of water, an immense gulf unexpectedly
opens through the trees, which border the pathway at
the depth of perhaps 1500 feet. Walking on a few
yards, one stands at the brink of a vast precipice, and
oelow one sees a grand bay or gulf, for I know not
what other name to give to it, thickly covered with
forest. The point of view is situate as if at the head of
a bay, the line of cliff diverging on each side, and show
ing headland behind headland, as on a low sea-coast.
" These cliffs are composed of horizontal strata, of
whitish sandstone, and are so absolutely vertical that in
many places a person, standing on the edge and throw
ing down a stone, can see it strike the trees in the abyss
below. So unbroken is the line of cliff, that in order to
reach the foot of the waterfall formed by this little
stream, it is said to be necessary to go sixteen miles
round. About five miles distant in front, another line
of cliff extends, which then appears completely to en
circle the valley, hence the name of bay is justified as
applied to this grand amphitheatrical depression. If
we imagine a winding harbour, with its deep water,
surrounded by bold cliff-like shores, to be laid dry, and
a forest to spring up upon its sandy bottom, we should
then have the appearance and structure here exhibited.
This kind of view was to me quite novel and extremely
magnificent. " In the evening we reached Blackheath. The sand
stone plateau has here reached the height of 3400 feet,
and is covered as before with the same scrubby woods.
From the road there were occasional glimpses into a
profound valley of the same character as the one de
scribed, but from the steepness and depth of its sides,
the bottom was scarcely ever to be seen.
" Very early next morning I walked about three miles
to see Govett's Leap — a view of a similar character with
that near the Weatherboard, but, perhaps, even more

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED. 183
stupendous. So early in the day the gulf was filled
with a thin blue haze, which, although destroying the
general effect of the view, added to the apparent depths
at which the forest was stretched out beneath our feet.
These valleys, which so long presented an insuperable
barrier to the attempts of the most enterprizing of the
colonists to reach the interior, are most remarkable.
Great armlike bays expand at the upper ends of their
branches from the main valleys, and penetrate the sand
stone platform. On the other hand, the sandstone often
sends promontories into the valleys, and even leaves in
them great, almost, insulated masses. To descend into
some of these valleys it is necessary to go round twenty
miles, and into others the surveyors have only lately
penetrated, and the colonists have not yet been able to
drive in their cattle. But the most remarkable feature
in their structure is, that although several miles wide at
their head, they generally contract to such a degree
towards their mouths as to become impassable. The
surveyor-general, Sir T. Mitchell, endeavoured in vain,
first walking, and then by crawling between the great
fragments of sandstone, to ascend through the gorge by
which the River Grose joins the Nepean, yet the valley
of the Grose, in its upper part, as I saw, forms a mag
nificent level basin some miles in width, and is on all
sides surrounded by cliffs, the summits of which are be
lieved to be nowhere less than 3000 feet above the level
of the sea.
" When cattle are driven into the valley ofthe Wolgan
(by a path which I descended, partly natural, and partly
made by the owner of the land), they cannot escape, for
this valley is in every part surrounded by perpendicular
cliffs, and eight miles lower down it contracts from an
average width of half-a-mile to a mere chasm, impassable
to man or beast. Sir Thomas Mitchell states that the
great valley of the Cox River, with all its branches,
contracts, when it unites with the Nepean into a gorge
2200 yards in width, and about 1000 feet in depth.
Other similar cases might be added." *
These were then the difficulties which stopped the
* Darwin, op. cit.

184 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
colonists of New South Wales. It was not as if they
could see the uplifted precipices before them, without a
break in their escarpments, or an opening between. On
the contrary, the hills seemed gentle wooded slopes ;
and if occasionally a yellow cliff peeped out in the dis
tance, it did not seem high or inaccessible. But when
the explorers got out a little distance into the bush, then
it was that they understood the fearful nature of the
task they had undertaken. Sometimes they staggered
along a narrow spur with precipices on either side, and
were finally stopped by a wall of rock ; or they crept
into the gorges just described, and when the valley
opened up, and they thought that their victory was won,
a circlet of perpendicular cliffs made them retrace their
steps in despair.
But it was not destined to be always so. Amid these
gullies and glens, cliffs and ravines, there was a key to
the whole position — a path to the summit which was yet
to be found. So many failures had been made, that the
colonists were tired of the subject until the year 1813
roused them from their apathy. That year proved ex
tremely dry in New South Wales. The grass was
nearly all destroyed, and the water failed. The little
space hemmed in between the sea and the mountains
had lately become too small for the whole colony in any
season, and now the flocks and herds died in great
numbers. Little grass at any time, none at all now,
made them anxious to make any effort rather than see
their property destroyed. Three gentlemen, Lieutenant
Lawson, and Messrs. Wentworth and Blaxland, deter
mined to attempt a passage across the mountains, in the
hope of finding some further extent of pasturage in such
a trying season.
The first part of their journey did not promise well.
They crossed the Nepean River at Emu Plains, and
after ascending the first range of mountains, were en
tangled among its deep ravines. This lasted a consi
derable time, and they began to despair, thinking that
they should have to return with the sad intelligence
which so many engaged on the same errand had
brought back to the colony. At length, they found a

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED. 185
spur from the dividing range along the ridge of which
they travelled. It led them westward. There was a
small stream on each side, almost hidden by the thick
forest which lined the ravine, and which became more
indistinct as they ascended higher and higher. After
suffering many hardships in toiling through the scrub,
over the irregular rocks of the ridge, they reached the
summit. To succeed, where so many had failed, was sufficient
reward for all their toils ; but was theirs a success ?
They were upon the top of the ridge, it was true, and
gazed down into a valley of beautiful richness before
them. It was well grassed, and, what was better, well
watered ; but the sight of this water brought a dismal
apprehension to their minds of more difficulties yet
before them. The stream was to the eastward, so they
were not as yet across 'the watershed. That had still to
be passed, and, for all they knew, might be even more
difficult than what they had already seen.
They descended into the valley down the slopes of
Mount York, and then proceeded in a westerly direction.
The country improved as they went on, and their ap
prehensions about the dividing range seemed groundless.
Eight or ten miles further told them plainly that the
worst difficulties were now passed, and as their pro
visions were expended, they returned to Sydney, after
an absence of little more than a month.
The report of their discoveries was a perfect God
send to the colonists. Things could not have been in
a worse state. All the population which could be sup
ported round Sydney was hitherto very small, and as
even those found it difficult to live, it was a serious
question what would become of the country if new
pastures were not discovered. Of course, immediate
steps were taken to make use of these discoveries.
Mr. Evans, the deputy surveyor-general, was di
rected by Governor Macquarrie to proceed with a party
and follow up the discoveries already made. He crossed
the Nepean River on the 20th November, 1813, and on
the 26th arrived at the termination of Messrs. Lawson
and Wentworth's journey. Proceeding westward, he

186 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
crossed a mountainous broken country — the grass of
which was good, and the valleys well watered — until the
30th, when they had crossed the dividing range between
the eastern and western waters. This was known,
because they reached a stream which flowed to the west
ward, down a gentle slope of a well-grassed valley. It
was called the Fish River. Evans traced it until the
7th, though a very fine country, so different from the
eastern side of the range, that it seemed like a new
world. The soil was rich and deep, not broken by rocks,
or covered with sand, but black and grassy, and scarcely
stony at all.
The Fish River soon fell into another from the south
ward, which was large, and evidently carrying down a
great body of water at times. It was called the Mac
quarrie, instead ofthe native name of Wambool. It car
ried running water in a gravelly slender stream, but high
above it were lofty banks, wide apart, and beautifully
verdant. Mr. Evans continued to follow the river until
the 18th December, passing over rich tracts, whose only
drawback seemed to be the absence of timber, and of
building stone. The wide level plains abounded with
even kangaroo and other game ; the river was also plen
tifully stocked with fish, but with all this plenty they
saw only six natives during the whole time of their ab
sence, though signal fires were pretty numerous. On
the 8th January, 1814, Mr. Evans returned with his
party to Emu Plains, having been 100 miles in a direct
line due west from the Nepean River.
This ultra-mountain region was, as before observed,
like a new creation. The grass and timber of the plains
were the same, but better than those found on the
east sides ; the birds were also similar, but here the re-
resemblance ceased. The scenery was quite of a dif
ferent character : the soil was dark and rich, and the
fish in the rivers were altogether of a different species
from any hitherto met with. But where did these rivers
flow to ? That was a question which at once perplexed
the colonists. They flowed westward ; and to suppose
that they traversed the immense distance between that
and the west coast was out of the question. This was

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED 187
a problem which was not decided for very many years
afterwards, and for its solution the most of the expedi
tions which succeeded were undertaken.
From the report of Mr. Evans, everyone was anxious
to make use of the new tract of country as soon as pos
sible. In fact, every day added to the distress of the
cattle, and the sooner they commenced taking them
over the range the better. It was the opinion of the
surveyor that a road could easily be made along the
ridge, and this was ordered to be commenced immedi
ately, for it need hardly be said, that without a road the
interior would remain as effectually closed as if a pas
sage had never been discovered. In January, 1815, the
road was finished, as far as what is now the town of
Bathurst, and in April of the same year Governor
Macquarrie went to inspect the places discovered upon
the new line. This journey was in some sort an explo
ration of the country already passed through ; and, then
for the first time, were names given to various remark
able places on the route. Thus as he proceeded up the
ridge, there was a remarkable pile of stones in a ravine
at the foot of an inaccessible cliff. This was the cairn
built by Mr. Caley, who had reached thus far after in
credible labours. Here he had paused, disheartened,
looking up to the long vista of crag over crag which
was still before him. He built a cairn to mark the
spot. It was named Caley's Repulse.
The summit of the mountain terminates in abrupt
precipices on the south-western sides, while, further on,
it blends with the ragged summit of distant hills, covered
with dark forest, or verdant with grass. It was named
King's Table Land. Below this was the valley, reach
ing by an abrupt slope to the watershed ; this was
named Prince Regent's Glen. Proceeding hence, to
the thirty-third mile, on the top of a hill, an opening
presents itself on the south side of the west of the glen,
from whence a view is obtained that is particularly
beautiful and grand. This was one of the usual rock
basins, which have already been described, with circular
walls of cliff all round, and was named Pitt's Amphi
theatre. The road continues from hence for the space of

188 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
seventeen miles on the ridge of the mountain which
forms one side of the Regent's Glen, and there it sud
denly terminates in nearly a perpendicular of 676 feet
high. As this road was constructed by Mr. Cox, it was
called in consequence Cox's Pass. Although that pass
was the only particular point then discovered, for de
scending by, it was, unfortunately, the most incon
venient. It was higher than the mountains at either
side, and thus the road to the crest of the hill could be
seen ascending over the highest ground.
The valley at the base of Mount York was named
the Yale of Clwyd (now the site of Hartley), in con
sequence of the strong resemblance it bore to the vale
of that name in North Wales — at least, so the governor
thought when he bestowed the name ; but if anything
Australian could have resembled a true British land
scape, no matter how rocky and wild, the foliage and
verdure must have altered very much from what it now
is. The valley was found to be watered by two pure
rivulets, which united into a river at the western ex
tremity. This stream was called Cox's River. It
belongs to the eastern side of the range, and empties
itself into the River Nepean. Three beautiful hills to
the westward were named after the three first explorers
who discovered this pass. A range of very lofty hills
and narrow valleys alternately form the track from
Cox's River for a distance of sixteen miles, until the
Fish River is arrived at on the eastern declivity of the
range. To this range the governor gave the name of
Clarence's Hilly Range. Proceeding from the Fish
River, and a short distance from it, a very singular and
beautiful mountain attracts the attention ; its summit
being crowned with a large extraordinary looking rock,
nearly circular in form, which gives the whole very
much the appearance of a hill fort in India. To this
lofty hill Mr. Evans, who was the first European dis
coverer, gave the name of Mount Evans. Passing on
from hence the country continues hilly, but affords good
pasturage, gradually improving to Sidmouth Valley,
which is eight miles distant from the pass of the Fish
River. They were now at the commencement of the

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS CROSSED. 189
plains. The forest disappeared as if by magic, and in
place of the rugged climbing, the country became level.
Sidmouth Valley was a beautiful little hollow, running
north-west and south-east, between hills of easy ascent,
thinly covered with timber. Thirteen miles distant
from this vale is Campbell River, which now embra
cing nothing but the grassy plains, swelling and
undulating all round, disappeared into the far distance.
The river has high banks and a broad bed, and in its
reaches and pools immense numbers of the platypus are
found. The soil on both banks is rich, and the grass
luxuriant. Two miles below where the road crosses this stream,
there is a rich tract of low land, which has been named
Mitchell's Plains. Here, with O'Connell Plains and
Macquarrie Plains, were patches of good open ground,
which lay around the junction of the Fish and Campbell
Rivers. Beyond this lay the Bathurst Plains, first com
mencing where the Macquarrie was joined by the
Campbell River.
The governor reached Bathurst on the 4th May,
and was at first occupied in giving directions for the
founding of the new town on the left bank ofthe stream.
During the week he was also occupied in making ex
cursions on various sides of the plains. One of these
extended nearly twenty-three miles in a south-west
direction. None of his journeys, however, went beyond
the limits of the plains, and his discoveries resulted in
nothing further than ground a little more elevated than
usual, or patches of forest trees. But he was very de
sirous that more should be known of the country south
west, because in that direction it seemed most likely
that the Macquarrie would be found to turn.
Accordingly, he despatched Mr. Evans with a small
party, and. one month's provisions, to explore towards
the bearing just mentioned. The first part of this journey
was along a valley, down which a small stream poured
into the Macquarrie. This was called Queen Charlotte's
Valley. Upon reaching the top of the valley, stony
ridges succeeded amid a scrubby country, until two
mountains were found, with a considerable stream

190 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
flowing to the north-west. This was evidently a tributary
of the Macquarrie, as well as another, named Limestone
Creek, which was found further on. The latter was
situate in good country.
Two days' journey to the west of this last stream
brought them upon a fine river, named the Lachlan,
not a pretty name certainly, but that, unfortunately,
was the Christian name of the governor. This river
differed very much from the Macquarrie. It was neither
so wide nor so important a stream, but its banks showed
that it sometimes carried down a considerable body of
water. Its course, too, was not so northerly, and the
whole appearance of the stream was against the supposi
tion that it was a tributary of the Macquarrie. But where
did it run to ? Where, in fact, did either of them go,
was a puzzling question which Mr. Evans was anxious
to solve. And he thought to do so, for he journeyed
with that view down to the Lachlan, without, however,
ascertaining more than that it had a very winding course.
When he resolved to turn back, he had found that the
flats on both sides of the river were extensive and good,
and the stream about forty yards broad. There was no
hill or eminence near, from which a view could be
obtained. And then this first exploring party returned
with the river problem more perplexed and embarrass
ing than ever. There was not one, but two rivers
flowing into the interior, within a short distance of each
other. They were both flowing, and every mile diverged
more and more from each other. Where did they stop ?
This was the simple question — where ? — which took
so long to answer.

191

CHAPTER IX.
OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS.
The course of the Lachlan — Mount Amyot — Level Plains — Mount Cunning
ham — The country flooded — Exploration of the south-west — Peel's Range —
Gloomy predictions of Oxloy — Regains the Lachlan, and again proceeds
down it — Is again stopped by marshes — Tries to reach the Macquarrie —
Campbell's Lake — Emmoline's Valley — Harvey's Range — Mary's Valley
— Bell's River — The Macquarrie — Wellington Valley.
The discoveries of Mr. Evans had only served to in
crease the curiosity of the colonists. Every one was
anxious to know the sequel of the two rivers. The
spirit of exploration was now fairly evoked, and though
as much had been done in this way lately as the young
settlement could conveniently afford, no one was
desirous that a pause should be made. Unfortunately,
this kind of enthusiasm has played the principal part in
the exploration of Australia. Readers will see, as the
history progresses, that the subject has always been
taken up in fits and starts. A period of wild excitement
and ill-matured schemes is generally succeeded by years
of complete indifference, and this is why it has taken so
very long to lift the veil of mystery from the geographi
cal problems of the continent. Thus it will be seen that
Oxley's experience o£ the rivers of the interior led to a
strong reaction, and nothing was done further until
1830. At this period, Sturt's success led to a burst of
enthusiasm, which only died out with Mitchell's journey
in 1835. Then another, though shorter, period of list-
lessness ensued, until Sturt was sent to explore the
centre of the continent. The subject then seemed to
vivify wonderfully. Sturt, Mitchell, Leichhardt, and
Kennedy, followed in rapid succession. But the zeal
was a fire of straw. Kennedy's melancholy death, and

192 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Leichhardt's loss, took the remaining energy out of the
expiring ardour of public spirit, and the matter became
quite extinguished for nearly ten years. Then, all of a
sudden, it lit up again. The results are in the memory of
all, and will be set down later in these volumes. Burke
and Wills, and Stuart, Gregory, Landsborough, and
M'Kinlay were out at nearly the same time, but one
would look in vain through the colonial papers to see
the subject even mentioned at the present day.
Now, these desultory efforts are to be regretted,
because they, in reality, do less in the long run than a
quiet well-sustained energy, which should avoid the
extremes of listlessness and enthusiasm. If it be too
much to expect this, knowing the constitution of
human nature, at least some provision might be made
against the reaction, and whatever funds the colonists
might subscribe for the purpose in their zeal, a constant
grant might be made every year by the Colonial
Legislature, so that the subject might not be entirely
forgotten. When Mr. Evans returned, the governor wanted
no persuasion to send a party to follow up his disco
veries. The surveyor-general of the colony at that
time was Lieutenant Oxley, R.N., an enterprising officer,
who was as anxious as anyone for the further explora
tion of the interior. To him the offer was made of the
command of a party to explore the Lachlan. Why that
river was chosen in preference to the Macquarrie, it is
difficult now to discover. The latter was by far the
most important river, and might be the means of
opening up extensive tracts of valuable country, whereas
the Lachlan was surrounded by barren soil and useless
land. But it was determined to explore the worst river
first. So let us suppose that the colonists were anxious
to know the worst at once. Oxley readily took charge
of the party which was sent on with the stores, &c, to
encamp upon Byrne's Creek, which was Evans's
furthest point. The stores were sufficient to last five
months, and besides other arrangements, two boats were
provided sufficient to carry the whole of their equip
ment, excepting the horses.

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 193
On the 1st May the party started from Byrne's
Creek, surveying and mapping the country as they ad
vanced, while the boats were leisurely worked down the
stream. The first five days were extremely uninterest
ing. The river was followed through a poor, level, and
mountainous country, unprovided with any eminence
from which a view could be obtained. There was no
water anywhere, except in the river, which was an un
failing source of food in the shape of fish to the party.
Though level and poor, the country was not barren.
At times they had great difficulty in struggling through
the grass which was breast high, and where there was
no grass there was scrub. The timber was not good —
small gum trees, shea oaks, and acacias, with their usual
scanty and gloomy foliage, which gives such a dreary
character to the landscape.
On the 5th, a creek was reached. Though small,
the banks were steep, and dangerous enough to cause a
great delay to the party, for all the horses had to be
unloaded in crossing. On riding up the creek, it was
found to terminate in extensive plains of very wet
loamy clay, upon which grew abundantly a new
species of acacia, called by Mr. Allan Cunningham,
the botanist, who accompanied the expedition, Acacia
pendula.* The boats had hitherto managed the navigation of
the river pretty well, but on this day their difficulties
commenced in earnest. They had to cut their passage
through the sunken timber three or four times, and
even then the navigation was very dangerous, for the
river was rapid, and the channel very narrow. The
party were obliged to stop at last on a very barren spot,
where there was little or no grass for the horses, and
the country beyond it getting worse in that respect, as
far as it could be seen.
The distant view did not belie the reality. The
* This acacia, which has much the habit of the weeping willow, is found
very extensively on the wet, alluvial flats of the west rivers. It sometimes
forms scrubs and thickets, which give a characteristic appearance to the
interior of this part of Australia, so that, once seen, it can never be again
mistaken for scenery of any other country in the world. The Myall scrubs
are nearly all of Acacia pendula.
VOL. I. 0

194 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
country passed through next morning was very barren,
and intercepted by swamps and lagoons. At eight
miles, they reached at last (with wonder be it said) a
hill, the only elevation they had seen for many days.
It was a picturesque little hill, thickly clothedwith tall
tapering trees, with emerald green spots of rich grass
between. It was named Mount Amyot. From its sum
mit a most extensive view was obtained. On the
opposite side of the river was another hill (Mount
Stuart), and vast plains, clear of timber, lay on the south
side of the stream. These plains were named Hamilton's
Plains, but as they were bounded in the far distance by
hills of considerable elevation, the country thus included
was named Princess Charlotte's Crescent. To the west of
Amyot the river was bounded by the horizon, which
was only broken here and there by distant elevations,
which became remarkable only in contrast to the gene
ral dead level. It seemed like an ocean of trees for
thirty or forty miles, which distance Oxley believed he
could see around. Smoke broke the loneliness here and
there, showing that natives could subsist in what to this
party of explorers seemed a most desolate region. But
really it must be mentioned once for all, that Oxley
took a very gloomy view of everything connected with
the interior, and that when he speaks of desolate
country, it should be balanced by observing that a great
deal of the land he thus describes, affords a comfortable
home to a large number of European settlers at the
present day. Three mountains, visible from Mount
Amyot, were named respectively Mounts Melville, Cun
ningham, and Maude.
Mount Cunningham was on the line of the river, and
they reached it upon the 11th. The intervening land
was, of course, as level as they had seen it to be from
Mount Amyot, and did not grow more fertile. Strangely
enough, the river was rising at the rate of about a foot
every night. There had been no rain at all for the
previous ten days, and not very much for the last five
weeks. There were not either any extensive creeks
joining the main stream, for the party had now followed
it for one hundred and fifty miles ; and it was only sup-

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 195
plied by a few insignificant brooks. The only conclu
sion was, that the Lachlan was derived direct from the
mountains, among which there must have been heavy
rains. The river continued to rise as they advanced, until it
was level with its banks, and about eighteen feet deep,
although still no rain was falling. The explorers did
not see how much they were interested in this singular
phenomena until they reached a space, named Field's
Plains. Here it was evident that their progress west
ward was stopped. The stream had overflowed both
banks, and its course was lost amid the marshes. It
was a dismal prospect from the only eminence they were
able to reach. The day was dull, and the sky and atmo
sphere of a leaden colour ; the trees, which collected
together in clumps on the interminable plains, were con
tinued over the water which surrounded them, and the
whole country, from west to north, was a complete
marsh, for a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles.
The picture was not a pleasing one at any time ; but to
men who knew that there was a desert of plain, and a
lofty mountain range between them and their fellow-
creatures, and who stood now with their horses and
baggage on a little eminence, round which the water
was rapidly rising, the prospect was dismal indeed.
There was, however, some hope for them : they had
left, a short distance back, a south-west branch of the
river, which might take them to higher ground. They
retraced their steps to it, and again followed down the
stream, but only for four miles : at this distance it turned
into the marshes, where the other was hidden from
them. What was to be done now ? To follow the Lachlan
was out of the question ; but there might be other rivers
which they could not fail to see, if they made for the
sea coast in a south-west direction. This was a bold
idea, and, had it been carried out, would have immor
talized Oxley, and led him through the best part of
Australia Felix. He certainly intended to try to reach
Cape Northumberland, and thus intersect any river
which ran between Cape Otway and Spencer's Gulf.
o 2

196 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
With this view, it would be necessary to abandon the
boats, as well as every superfluous article of baggage.
This was easily done— too easily, perhaps, considering
how much they had cost — and the party moved away
from the Lachlan on the 18th.
In the meantime, Mr. Cunningham had made an
excursion towards Mount Melville. The country was
as much flooded in that direction as any other. Some
slightly elevated tracts were found, but these were yery
barren, and covered with acacia scrubs. The natives
had been recently under Mount Melville, and left around
their deserted fire-places abundance of fresh-water
mussel shells, as an evidence of the kind of food they
lived upon.
Now commenced the journey south-west. The
former part had been desolate, because ofthe manner in
which the country was deluged with water. They were
now to experience another kind of desolation, but with
out the water. The country was still level, but studded
with grass, only in patches, and by far the greater part
producing no grass at all : the trees were principally
scrubs of Acacia pendula and cypress trees, growing in
a soil of light red sand ; the land seemed parched, as if
rain had not fallen for many months. The first day
they did not meet any water, and were obliged to stop
in the middle of an acacia scrub, as the horses were too
much fatigued to proceed further ; but they were still
near the influence of the Lachlan, and, therefore, some
small lagoons were found after a little search. Several
natives' huts were upon the edge of these, but they had
not been lately inhabited.
But this good fortune was not of daily occurrence.
As they proceeded from day to day they could barely
procure sufficient water for their wants. On the 25th,
however, the country changed. On that day they
reached the base of a hill of considerable magnitude,
terminating westward in a precipice nearly three hun
dred feet high. It was named Mount Ay ton. From
its summit, an extensive view was obtained. The
country was still level plains, while the horizon was
bounded by distant ranges, which just broke the outline

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 197
of the level enough to show that there were elevations
of some kind. Most of the hills near Mount Ayton
resembled it, in the fact that they terminated their
western faces in precipices. A few names given to the
ranges in the neighbourhood must be here inserted,
because they bear an important part in the surveys of
subsequent explorers.
The considerable range near them, to the west, was
named Peel's Range ; a small one on the north-west,
Goulburn's Range ; one close at hand, on the south,
Jones's Range ; and a lofty hill, seventy miles to the
N.N.W., Mount Granard. "
They could not leave Mount Ayton as soon as they
desired, for it possessed no features of interest, and was
singularly barren ; but this very circumstance caused
the horses to stray. Grass and water to them were of
more importance than all the explorations in the world.
When their journey was resumed, on the 31st, it was
amid terrible difficulties. The first nine miles was
excellent travelling, over very indifferent soil ; but
at the ninth mile they entered a very thick scrub, over
run with creepers and prickly acacia. They continued
cutting their way through it until night, and then were
obliged to encamp in the middle, without water. Next
morning, water was the first consideration. Two miles
brought them into more open country, and they pro
ceeded onward towards the end of Peel's Range, hoping
that they would find water there ; but the horses could
not go much further. There was nothing left but to
unload them, and separate, in search of a drink, which
neither men nor animals had tasted for thirty-six hours.
It would have gone hard with these neophytes in
exploration if they had not found some pools at the end
of the range, for two of their horses died from the effect
of this little privation and their previous fatigue.
Young explorers do not easily understand how much
their own safety depends upon that of their horses ; and
very likely Oxley' s animals were not economized much
at first in the labours put upon them. All that were
left were now very much exhausted, but still Oxley held
on his course for Cape Northumberland.

198 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
The route was barren, rugged, and rocky, though to
the south-west it was still a perfect plain, interspersed
with those dreadful sands, which made the explorers
shudder to look at ; but the country soon became
impracticable. There was no grass, and the water was
so scarce, and of so inferior a quality, that the horses
suffered to an extent which made Oxley fear he should
lose them all in a few days. But even had these
drawbacks been of less importance, they were brought
up by another scrub on the 5th June, which they
had not the heart to face. Oxley again reluctantly
changed the course of the party, but he would not go
back : he steered northerly. This was most unfortunate.
Some evil genius seemed always to preside over his
decisions. He was now only about twenty-three miles
from the River Murrumbidgee, and, had he reached
that, Mitchell's discoveries would have been anticipated
by nearly twenty years; but his object now was to
regain the Lachlan. This was a great pity : the Lach
lan was the most distant water he could attempt to
reach from where he then was.
But his fault seemed to be despondency. He took
a gloomy view of everything, and could not imagine
that ever human being was in a more sterile desert.
This shows how a man's mind is tinctured more by
circumstances than facts. It was not the country
which was bad, nor was it its appearance alone which
made him think it so wretched : it was his dead horses,
and the emaciated condition of those which survived —
it was the novelty of his position, and the utter solitude
of the bush ; and, finally, it was the disappointment in
finding a fine river terminating in such a dismal man
ner as the Lachlan had done. Only under such depres
sing influence can one imagine an explorer writing as
follows : —
" Yesterday, being the King's birthday, Mr. Cunning
ham planted under Mount Brogden (of the Peel's Range)
acorn, peach, and apricot stones, and quince seeds, with
the hope rather than the expectation that they would
grow, and serve to commemorate the day and situation,
should these desolate plains be ever again visited by

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 199
civilized man, of which, however, I think there is very
little probability."*
This is a remarkable prophecy, and should serve as
a useful lesson to those who despair of Australia's
future, or listen too credulously to the opinions of
explorers about the country they pass through.
After an attempt to travel to the north-west, in
which both men and horses suffered extremely from
want of water, and from the desolate nature of the
country, Mr. Oxley was obliged to keep in under Peel's
Range, in order to have the benefit of the small swamps
which were found at its base. This took them in a
northerly direction. Their sufferings during all this
time were very great. The horses were becoming
every day more and more exhausted, and the men,
besides over-exertion and scanty supplies, in the best
days, had now to go upon reduced rations. When
these inconveniences were at their height, rain came.
The prospect of constant supplies of water made them
blind at first to the consequences of this new feature.
But the unpleasant truth was not long reaching them.
The country became very boggy, so much so, indeed,
that it wanted but very little more to make it into
one vast quagmire. If that happened, the lives of the
whole party would be sacrificed.
Monotonous as the view was, it was rendered more
so by the slow manner in which they were obliged to
traverse it. Each step they took sank down into soft
clay, from which it required an exertion to extricate
the feet; this sent them staggering forward, step by
step, and a mile would scarcely be accomplished before
they would sink down exhausted. Floundering along
in this wretched manner, it is no wonder that two
of the horses soon died. Their animals were now
reduced to a number which would not suffice to carry
their stock of provisions along. On the 1 8th of June, '
Mr. Evans was sent on to search for grass and water,
it being intended, if he were successful, to take one-half
the provisions to a depot, and then when the horses
* Oxley's Journal. .

200 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA,
were recruited, to send them back for the other half.
Fortunately, a good camping ground was found near
them. On the 21st, Oxley again says, that for all purposes
of civilized man, the interior of this country, westward of
a certain meridian, was utterly uninhabitable, deprived,
as it was, of wood, and water, and grass. No doubt,
Oxley had good cause for being low-spirited, if ever
man had ; but it is well to bear his opinion in mind, as
a commentary on the opinion of others in similar
situations. From the camping ground they proceeded through
a broken, irregular country, for nearly six miles, when
the weakness of the horses made it impossible to proceed
further. They halted under a rocky hill. From its
summit the country appeared to be perfectly level to the
north. To the west there was a range named Macquarrie
Range, and to the north-west a lofty detached hill,
named Mount Flinders. The rain still continued, and
to add to their misfortunes, it was now first discovered
that three of the casks which had been all along taken
for flour casks were filled with pork. Do not laugh,
reader. You must live in the bush for some time
before you know what a cruel blow it was to these poor
men to be thus deprived of flour, to say nothing of the
actual loss of food thereby.
On the 23rd, after watering the horses in a most
tedious way — that is, out of the camp kettles, because the
holes were to small for the horses to drink from — they
proceeded northwards. Suddenly, when they least
expected it, they saw a stream before them. They
hurried forward. It was the River Lachlan, again
emancipated from the marshes, and flowing southward,
in a narrow channel. Of course, they resolved to follow
it. It was evident, from its appearance, that it had
received no tributary during its long course of over 200
miles, and therefore, speculation became busy what had
become of the Macquarrie, and whether it could have
run parallel with the Lachlan for such a distance.
The stream was lined on each side by lightly tim
bered plains, pleasant to view, and apparently of rich

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 201
soil. It is needless to give the various names bestowed
on the plains which lined different reaches of the river.
They were rich banks, well covered with grass, and
looking so fertile, that they made the explorers soon
forget the axid nature of the country they had just come
through. But their joy was of very short duration.
The river was ominously high when they reached it,
and lower down the channel, narrowed so much that it
was evident another overflow must soon take place. It
was not long before their sad forebodings were realized.
On the 28th of June, they were no longer able to follow
the banks ; they were merged in an immense marsh.
This was skirted round, and the main stream again
reached, flowing rapidly through arid plains ; but only
for a short distance. On the 3rd of July, they found
that it was again merged in another marsh, the
ground on every side being difficult to travel over. It
was not only boggy, but numerous pitfalls or holes were
made by the crayfish all over the plains, so thickly that
men and horses sank into them at every step.
Oxley was determined to follow the stream for some
distance further, at any rate, even through these plains,
which were so difficult to travel over. For two days,
therefore, they continued, during which time it was not
very easy to recognise the river. At the end- of the
second day it was seen again, but very much altered in
appearance ; the banks were not six feet above the
water, which was very muddy, and the current, which
was scarcely perceptible, was not four feet deep. Both
sides were alike. A very large sheet of water or lake
lay on the north-west, while to the west the horizon
was unbroken, except by the trees which lined the edge
of the stream. The view decided Oxley ; he could see
that the channel continued, by the solemn winding
avenue of flooded gum trees,* which stretched out their
stately arms over the water, until lost in the far distance.
* This tree is found throughout the whole continent, wherever water lies
upon the surface. It is one of the finest of Australian trees, growing in the
beds of rivers, so that only its branches can be seen at a distance ; and thus
streams may be descried afar off by their resemblance to a close procession or
a winding funeral train.

202 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
But they were growing in a marsh which made him
shudder to think of crossing. He would go no further.
This was the turning point in Oxley 's survey. Let
us hear himself as to his opinions on resigning the main
object of his expedition. Before doing so, however, it
must first be remarked that many rivers have since been
discovered, which empty themselves on to the south
coast, between Cape Otway and Cape Northumberland.
This turning point also is now surrounded with thriving
sheep stations, and not far from it is a rich gold field,
the Lachlan diggings. This will show the errors into
which explorers are led, who hastily form conclusions on
a very imperfect knowledge of the country. And
though it is anticipating, it may be mentioned that
when next the lower Lachlan was visited, its bed was
quite dry, and no water could be found near it.
" From the marks on the trees," says Oxley, " the
waters appear to rise about three feet above the level of
the bank — a height more than sufficient to inundate the
whole country. This stream is certainly dry in the
summer season, or in the absence of rain, nothing more
than a chain of ponds serving as a channel to convey
the waters from the eastward over this low tract. It is
certain that no waters join this river from its source to
this point, and passing as it does, for the most part,
through a line of country so low as to be frequently
overflowed to an extent, north and south, perfectly
unknown — but certainly at this place exceeding forty
miles — it must cause the country to remain for ever un
inhabitable and useless for all the purposes of civilized
man. " These considerations, added to the state of our
provisions — of which, at the reduced rations of three
pounds of flour per man per week, we had but ten weeks'
remaining — determined me to proceed no further west
ward with the main part of the expedition ; but as the
state of the greater part of our horses was such as abso
lutely to require some days' rest and refreshment before
we attempted to return westward, I considered that it
would be acting best up to the spirit of my instructions
to proceed forward myself with three men and horses,

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 203
and as we should carry nothing with us but our pro
visions, we should be enabled to proceed with so much
expedition, as to go as far and see as much in three
days as it would take the whole party at least seven to
perform. " My object in thus proceeding further, was to get so
far to the westward as to place beyond all question the
impossibility of a river falling into the sea between
Cape Otway and Cape Bernoulli. In my opinion, the
very nature of the country altogether precludes such a
possibility, but I think my proceeding so far will be
conclusive with those who have most strongly imbibed
the conviction that a river enters the sea between the
capes in question. I also had entertained this idea,
which nothing but a survey of the country without hills
or permanent streams could have destroyed. I must
observe, as a remarkable feature in this country, that for
the last fifty miles we had not seen a stone nor a pebble
of any kind, save two, and they were taken out of the
gizzards of two emus. I am more firmly pursuaded that
there are no eminent grounds in this part of the country
until those low sandy hills are reached which bound the
south-western coast line. These, in my judgment, are the
only barriers which prevent the ocean from extending
over a country which was probably once under its
dominion." This statement is plain enough, but fortunately very
incorrect. We have seen from surveys, which Oxley
ought to have known, that there was something more
on the south-western coast besides sand-hills ; and in
spite of the evidence of the lowness of the plains,
against which only such weak evidences as emus'
gizzards could be adduced, Oxley ought also to have
known that the bed of the river was still considerably
elevated above the level of the sea. However, the
desire to make a final effort to the westward was very
creditable to his energy and perseverance, because his
prospects were getting more gloomy, one of his horses
having died while he was deliberating. He started
with three men, and proceeded to follow the course of
the stream as well as he could. At three and a half

204 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
miles from his tents, a large arm extended from the
north bank to a considerable distance on that side.
The banks of the river, which now appeared like
islands of irregular shape, jutting out from amid the
lagoons, were getting lower and lower ; at last, they
disappeared altogether. There was nothing but marsh
visible, with a line of gum trees, through which a
slight current was sluggishly flowing. But even the
trees were not what they used to be. The large stately
forest gums, with massive arms and dense foliage, were
replaced by straggling, withered-looking gum shrubs,
almost denuded of leaves. They advanced towards
these ; but exploration in such a place was hopeless.
The morass now enclosed them ; the water was stagnant,
though even then not at its height; for gum trees
showed marks from which it was seen that the marsh
stood sometimes one foot higher. It appeared also
that the water continued stationary at that height for a
considerable time, because long moss and other marks of
stagnant water lay in great masses among the branches
of the numerous acacia trees, and the wiry Polyonums,
which- abounded.*
This was the end of River Lachlan, as far as Oxley
could ascertain. He says that if there had been a hill
or an eminence within forty miles of him, he must have
seen it ; but there was not the least appearance of any
such. " It was," he says, " with infinite pain and
regret that I was forced to come to the conclusion that
the interior of this vast country is a marsh, and unin
habitable. How near these marshes may approach to
the south-western coast I know not; but I do not
think that the range of high and dry land in that
quarter extends back north-easterly for any great
distance, it being known that the coast from Cape
Bernoulli is sandy and destitute of water."
So much for the interior. The theory which follows
is quite as amusing. He says : " I think that the river
is the channel by which the waters rising in those
ranges of hills to the westward of Port Jackson, known
* This bush is like a tangled thicket of green wire, no leaves ; and the
branches are an almost uniform thickness.

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 205
by the name of the Blue Mountains, and which do not
fall into the sea on the east coast, are conveyed to those
immense inland marshes, its sinuous course causing it
to overflow its banks on a much higher level than the
present, and in consequence forming those low wet
levels which are in the very neighbourhood of the
Government depot (Byrne's Creek?). Its length of
course is, in my opinion, the principal cause of our not
finding anything like a stream for the last hundred
miles, as the immense body of water which must at
times be collected in such a river must find a vent
somewhere ; but being spent during so long a course
without any accession, the only wonder is that even
these waters should cause a current at so great a distance
from -their source. Everything, however, indicates
that in dry seasons the channel of the river is empty,
or forms only a chain of ponds. It appears to have
been a considerable time since the banks were over
flowed — certainly not for the last year ; and I think it
probable that they are not often so, for the quantity of
water must indeed be immense, and of long accumula
tion, in the upper marshes, before the whole of this vast
country can be under water."
Amusing as this theory is, it possesses undoubtedly a
great deal of truth. In fact, if the idea of the immense
permanent marsh be subtracted from it, the whole is a
fair statement of the facts of the case.
The furthest point reached was lat. 33° 57' 30";
long. 144° 31' 15". From hence Oxley returned upon
his tracks, resolving now to cross the river on the first
favourable opportunity, and to proceed in a north
easterly direction in search of the Macquarrie.
For days their journey was through very low
swampy land, with few or no trees, and an unbroken
horizon. There was only one hill seen, and it received
the name of Mount Torrens. The river meanwhile was
subject to the most extraordinary fluctuations. Some
times it seemed scarcely to flow at all ; and again it
would rise as much as two feet in a single night.
Having discovered a lake (Lake Campbell), they
endeavoured to cross the stream near it, but they were

206 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
not successful. While a bridge was being constructed,
Messrs. Oxley and Byrne took a ride into the country
to the southward. After going about two miles, they
were most agreeably surprised at the sight of a very
fine lake, with a hard sandy beach on the north, but a
bold shore, with red cliffs, on the south side. It was
supplied by a small creek, and a low ridge of bare hills
lay between this sheet of water and the one they had
formerly discovered. There was a low hill about five
miles to the westward, which Oxley ascended ; this
gave him an extensive prospect. The. expanse of water
in the lake was too large and winding to be seen in
one point of view, but it broke into large sheets from
east to west for upwards of six miles ; it was bounded
six or seven miles from its eastern extremity by a low
range of hills connected with Mount Byng ; and from
the dark, wooded appearance of the country, Oxley
thought that its source came from a more northerly
quarter. To the westward was the Goulburn Range, distant
five or six miles, its bold rocky peaks of lofty elevation
forming a striking contrast to the dead level country
to the south, in which Mount Ayton appeared like a
speck on the horizon. To the north was Mount
Granard, which had been visible from Mount Ayton.
To the north-east were extensive flats, in which, in one
place, Oxley fancied he could distinguish water. Be
tween the hill and the river, Campbell Lake wound
along the plain ; but its width did not allow it to be so
conspicuously seen as Lake Regent, as the other was
called. Altogether it was a fine prospect, whether
on the north, with its jutting, abrupt blue mountains,
or on the south, where a dark sea of foliage made the
silvery lake close by appear like a mirror set in bronze.
To the west, eucalyptus and cypress lent a mournful
appearance to the marshy flats, whose foreground was
the rocky or red loamy shrubby soil of the margin of
the lake. In fact, the hills, the lake, and the river
made it the only delightful piece of scenery met with
since they had left Mount Amyot.
Oxley continued along the banks of the river,

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 207
looking in vain for a place where he might cross his
party to the other side. Their course meanwhile was
through open plains, only interrupted by the very
zig-zag course of the stream. Another hill was reached
upon the 29th. Such elevations were the only means
they had of ascertaining the nature of the country they
were passing through, for on the level flats only a very
short distance at either side would be seen. Round
the foot of Piper's Hill the river wound, trending to
the south-east, through low marshy grounds covered
with Acacia pendula. This was, in fact, the further side
of the swamp which had stopped them on the first part
of their journey. He had then thought that the
Lachlan did not run further, but was lost in swamps
caused by the stream dividing into a multitude of
branches. He had found it again, however, as we have
seen, and then a second time traced it into an immense
swamp. There he had left it, believing that it did not
run further ; but having been mistaken once, it is a
great pity that he did not leave room for believing that
he might be mistaken again. Had he done so, he
certainly would have reached the junction of the
Murrumbidgee in trying to round the great marsh.
On the 3rd August, they at last succeeded in
crossing the river, and now proceeded to the north-east,
intending to keep that course for two or three days to
clear them of the low grounds north of the Lachlan,
before they travelled more easterly for Bathurst. The
above course would also carry them to the north
ward, far enough to ensure their falling in with the
Macquarrie, at a considerable distance from the settle
ment. Besides these considerations, Oxley imagined
that there might be other streams flowing to the west
ward from the Blue Mountains, which he would thus
intersect. The route lay through a low wet country for the
first eight or ten miles, covered with the usual Aus
tralian weeping-willow, the Acacia pendula. The last
three miles were rather more elevated ; the soil was in
general a loose sandy loam, with small cypress, box,
and acacia trees ; a few acres, in patches, had been

208 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
burned, relieving the eye from the otherwise scrubby
appearance of the country. They passed through two
or three small eucalyptus scrubs ; and in getting out of
one about thirteen miles wide, they fortunately hit upon
a native well, containing a few gallons of water.
The first four miles of next day's journey led
through a scrub different from what they had hitherto
seen ; it was the mallee scrub of the natives, or Euca
lyptus dumosa, which, though not so difficult as the
euryalean scrub, a passage was not easily forced
through it, because it was boggy, and extremely dis
tressing to the horses. After passing through it, the
country for five or six miles further was more open,
though the soil was still loose and red, and apparently
elevated. Water was very scarce ; from day to day
they could hardly get enough for their own wants, to
say nothing of the distress of the horses. The conse
quence was that they now began to experience the
sufferings and difficulties of the boggy land near the
Peel Ranges. They found water in these scrubs quite
providentially ; they were only small holes, but enough
to refresh both men and horses, and this was all they
cared for. The scrub did not continue open ; as they
went through it; on the contrary, it got thicker.
On the 6th, matters mended a little. They pro
ceeded on their course through what might be called
an open forest country, but for the acacia bushes.
These were coming into flower, and their yellow blos
soms made the dark foliage of the gum trees look a
little more cheerful. The country was more elevated
than the banks of the Lachlan, but the rises and falls
were so gentle that it was difficult to pursue them.
The only hill met with gave no idea of the country.
No remarkable object was to be seen except low hills
and valleys, thickly clothed with small trees and bushes.
At the eighth mile, on this day, they came upon a small
water-hole, which the horses soon emptied, as well as
one, two miles further, just at the commencement of a
very broken stony range. This latter hole was too
muddy for the men's use, yet they would not have been
particular, only they hoped to find some better on the

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 209
further side of the range. The latter continued in
short broken hills for upwards of three miles, and led
through a country very distressing to the men and
horses. The surface was covered with small fragments
of quartz, without herbage of any kind, except iron-
bark trees, and acacia thickets between. But for the
trees, this was, to all intents, like the stony desert sub
sequently met with by Sturt, and, no doubt, due to the
decomposition of the same kind of sandstone.
At three miles and a half the ground began to de
scend, and also slightly to improve ; but before they
reached either grass or water, the party were obliged
to encamp, their fatigue being much greater than the
pangs of hunger or thirst. Next day, they again set
forward, and for more than four miles continued to pass
through the same barren country as before. The ground
was absolutely covered with different species of acacia,
some of which were extremely beautiful ; and this was
the only redeeming feature of the soil. Oxley had now
occasion to be seriously uneasy. Unless some change
came, none of the party could hold out much longer.
To advance was to depend upon the providential supplies
of water which they had met hitherto, and to retreat
was hopeless, as they had consumed all the water found
upon this route.
The fact is, they were passing through the acacia
and mallee scrubs, which lie between all these western
waters. It is only the banks of these streams which
are good or well clothed with grass. Were there fewer
of them, the country between the Blue Mountains and
the sea-coast would be an unredeemable desert, until the
south bank of the Murray were crossed. It is wonderful
to reflect on the luck that attended Oxley so far. His
finding water in these scrubs was a mere chance. Nine
out of ten exploring parties would have been baffled,
and obliged to return upon the second day of entering
them. But as they proceeded the land improved greatly.
The marks upon the trees, made by the mogo, or stone
axe of the natives, were seen ; and some parrots flying
over them, revived their hopes of soon reaching water.
ArOL. I. P

210 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
They were further fortunate enough to kill a kan
garoo, whose flesh formed a seasonable addition to their
resources. The country seemed to grow better and better
as they advanced, and at the ninth mile of this day's
journey, as they slowly ascended a range, low gentle
hills and grassy valleys began to appear in the dis
tance. East and west, mountains showed their heads ;
though in the former direction they were more rugged,
with iron-bark trees growing in the interstices of the
granite rocks. But there was no water as yet, though
there were good hopes of soon finding it in some of the
valleys before them. Nor were they disappointed.
After going rather more than four miles further, through
a very open country, thickly covered with broom grass
(killed by frost), they ascended a range of moderate
elevation, connected with others lying east and west.
Opposite was another rocky range, and, in the valley
between, abundance of water. The horses would have
died but for this seasonable supply. This was called
Emmeline's Valley ; it was very richly grassed.
On the 9th, they again started on their journey.
For the first three or four miles the country was toler
ably open, and clothed with luxuriant grass. But the
good land soon ceased. For the remainder of the day's
journey they passed over tracts of low barren ridges,
covered with iron-bark trees and open valleys. After
having travelled fourteen miles, during the latter part
of which it rained hard, they encamped on the edge of
some open country, which would afford the horses
something to eat. The rain prevented their wanting
water, otherwise there was none to be had from the
ground. On the 1 Oth, they again journeyed through open forest
land with more stony hillocks, though the last three
miles were scrubby, and at the end of the brush they
reached a chain of ponds. The fall of water in these
was to the north. This made them believe that the
Macquarrie was not far distant. The country to the
east was grassy and good, but to the west very scrubby.
As they continued down the ponds (called Coysgaine's
Ponds), the country continued open for about five

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 211
miles, when they suddenly came upon a large swampy
plain, surrounded by the Acacia pendula. It was six or
seven miles round, and had water upon several parts of
it. They fancied that they would come upon the
Macquarrie immediately after crossing it, but they were
deceived in this. Oxley had not yet recognised the
character of Australian rivers. With dry beds in sum
mer, and chains of floods in spring, they flow generally
from plain to plain in wet seasons ; never, except in
rare instances, running in deep channels. Even in the
wettest season there is scarcely a stream which does not
become lost in large marshy plains in several places
upon its course. This was the case with the Lach
lan, and the wet plain now met was a trace of the
diffused bed of the Coysgaine's Ponds channel.
On the south side of the plain, the party caught
sight of a fine mountain range looming, blue, high, and
rugged, in the north-east. This was Harvey's Range —
the only series of mountains worthy of that name which
they had met westward of the Dividing Range, and
which they quite equalled in height. From the marshy
plain, surrounded by its fringe of antipodean weeping
willows, these mountains had a fine bold appearance,
refreshing to these men, who were struggling, weary
and emaciated, to reach home as fast as they could.
They anxiously sighed to see the Macquarrie as they
journeyed north. As each successive height and range
was crowned, they expected to behold it before them ;
but each time they were disappointed.
On the 13th, they again set forward, intending, if
they did not meet the river that day, to make a more
easterly course, as they would be then fully seventy miles
north of Bathurst, and parallel with Port Stephens.
But it was not seen. On they went, through forests of
gum trees, with a tangled growth of acacia bushes
between, over barren sandy country with water, but
without grass. At every change, they made sure that
the river was at hand. But evening came, and they had
not yet seen it. They were now one hundred miles
north of the Lachlan, and only about seventy west of
Bathurst. Where could the Macquarrie have gone?
p 2

212 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Unless on the supposition that it had run nearly north
from the settlement, it should have been met long ago. It
was no use going further north — they were far enough
from home as it was, for their provisions were sadly
reduced. By great economy, it was hoped that what yet
remained might be made sufficient to last for a fortnight
longer, and that would be barely sufficient to carry them
to Bathurst, supposing no extraordinary obstacle to
occur. One may be astonished at the time required to
travel seventy miles, but it must be remembered that
this was a survey, and in rough country six miles a
day was a very large amount of work to get over.
The course was now altered to due east. The
land was good open grazing country for about eight
miles, but then the surface became broken, hilly, and,
though still well grassed, very stony. A little rise gave
them the means of viewing the route they had passed
over, and the unknown space still before them. The
day was calm and clear, with a bright blue sky and a
brilliant sun, such as only an Australian spring can
show. Behind them the light shone over an unbroken
level of brown forest wood, resting so peacefully in the
tranquil day, that not a sign of life or a sound could be
seen or heard amid it all. For seventy miles the view
extended — a perfectly smooth horizon. What made it
look so peculiarly dead and even, was the view to the
eastward. There, at the distance of five or six miles,
craggy precipices and rugged pinnacles of rock lifted
their bronzed forms into the view, or shot up in rough
spires into the sky. There were the bare brown rocks,
with the black interspaces of brush in the foreground,
and there were the angular summits in the azure dis-~
tance, between which almost every gradation of colour
occurred. To the north and north-east the view was
stopped at about eleven miles by hills of moderate
elevation. The day's journey terminated at a pretty valley, which
seemed the commencement of a much better style of
country. This was indeed the case. A mile of gently
rising ground brought them next day to the edge of a
fine valley, in which was a chain of ponds connected by

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 213
a small stream. Alternate hills and valleys of the best
description of pasture succeeded, wanting but the distant
white dots of browsing sheep, or the neat farm-house,
to make it look like the home of civilization. To their
great surprise, however, even these were not completely
wanting, for cattle tracks were seen on some of the hills
they passed over. Every now and then the rising
ground would bring them in sight of most extensive
views, over thirty or forty miles of country. The aspect
was clear and open, and the green grass and clumps of
trees made the scenery like the park of an English
landscape. On the 16th, quitting the valley, which was called
Mary's Valley, they expected to find that it would lead
into the Macquarrie, but it did not. The same fine
grazing land continued for about four miles. Ascending
a high hill, another prospect was obtained. Each new
view showed them that the country was growing better
and better. Beautiful hills lay all around them, and an
extensive valley at their feet. Into the latter they
looked eagerly for the Macquarrie, but they could only
in its absence tax their imaginations for a water haze,
which each one saw in a different direction. Very
likely they might have been able to see something more,
for the valley was six or seven miles long, but a rocky
range in the south, clothed with pines, cut off the view
in that direction. They descended into the valley, and
travelled north, expecting that it must, of course, termi
nate in the long-sought river. The vale charmed
them with its richness, its beauty, and its fertility. The
soil was a light brown loam, covered with grass five or
six feet high. It was a lovely spot, and made the men
forget their fatigue ; and as for the horses, they were
walking breast deep in their food.
At four miles they came upon a stream ; its banks
were high and grassy, and its bottom rocky ; though
very different from the Macquarrie, at Bathurst, the ex
plorers made sure that it must be the same. And yet it
could hardly be. There was scarcely any water ; and
though it was running, it was certainly doing no more.
It should have been known to Oxley by this time that

214 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
it could not have been the Macquarrie, for one simple
reason. Whatever character an Australian river pos
sesses at one part of its course, that character remains
upon the whole. There are but few exceptions to this
rule, and these only in the small streams. Take any
one to the Murray, or Darling, or Murrumbidgee, and
let them become acquainted with the character of the
banks, and then, if led blindfold to any part of any of
the three, there is not much fear of a mistake occurring
as to which river they are upon.
But Oxley accounted for the low state of the Mac
quarrie. He said that the whole country, from the
Lachlan to this stream, bore evident marks of a long-
continued drought, and in no part was it more appa
rent than in this stream. But after going up it
for three or four miles, he began to entertain great
doubts about its being the river he sought. At any rate,
it was not a tributary of the Macquarrie, for he felt
confident that he had passed over its watershed. At the
place where they camped on this day they saw numerous
cattle marks again.
At the end of the valley there was a low range, and
then another valley, which was spacious and fertile. It
was bounded to the east by low grassy hills, and there
was every appearance of a watercourse being in it. As
it was five or six miles distant, and access could only be
obtained by passing over lofty hills, and through rocky
glens, Oxley hesitated a good deal before descending.
The glens were so narrow that he feared that they
would not be able to follow their windings. The rocks
rose in vast perpendicular cliffs, almost barring up the
passage. After some little delay, they found a place
where the horses could descend in safety. When this
was done, they traversed the bottom of the glen, along
all its windings, for more than three miles and a half.
There was a fine stream running through it, and as they
might go further and fare worse in that respect, they
camped beside it. The place of the encampment was
very beautiful. There was just space enough on each
side of _ the stream for the horses to travel along, the
rocks rising almost perpendicular from it, to a towering

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 215
height. The scene was dark and romantic. The crags,
the silvery stream, and the tall stately trees, made it
solemn ; but oh ! for a painter that should give -the scene
when the tents were pitched, and the men were seated
round a glimmering fire, whose smoke curled noiselessly
among the heights, and whose glare cast shadows of the
mossy trunks upon the brushwood! As the morning
dawned, the glen grew less rough in its aspect. The
faces of the cliffs were clothed with flowers, for it was
spring time.
Oxley called this, Glen Finlass. He does not tell us
why. The name itself is not much, but we have con
stant reason to deplore, both here and in America, the
geographical confusion which results from having home
names transplanted by patriotic explorers.
A mile and a half next day brought them into the
valley which they had seen on their first descending into
the glen. The breadth from the cliffs to the base of the
opposite gently rising hills, was between three and four
miles. The soil was very good, and studded with fine
trees. Its extent, north and south, they could not see.
To the west it was bounded by the lofty rocky ranges
of their encampment ; and in the centre ran a strong and
beautiful stream. It was, says the explorer, a charming
valley. The limpid water dashed over gravelly peb
bles, or large stones, and eddied into deep smooth pools,
in which the rays of the sun showed dark recesses and
mossy hollows where fishes lurked.
At first, as usual, this was thought to be the Mac
quarrie. Under this impression, Oxley determined to
stop upon its banks for the remainder of the day, and
then proceeding southerly to go up towards Bathurst.
Whilst waiting for the horses, he determined to see as
much of the northern part as he could, and therefore
wandered a little from the place he had chosen as an
encampment. It was very fortunate that he_ did so.
Had he gone up the stream as he intended, it would
have led him away from the river he sought. He had
scarcely ridden a mile when he was no less astonished
than delighted to find that his brook (Bell's River)
joined a very fine river, coming from the east-south-

216 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
east among the chain of grassy hills, bounding the east
side of the valley on which they were. This then was
certainly -the long-looked-for river, and the sight of it
amply repaid the party for all their former disappoint
ments. It was evident that it received many tributaries ;
for though it was easily identified as the stream which
flowed past Bathurst, it was much larger.
The valley they now left was named Wellington
Valley. It has since become distinguished for the sin
gular caves which are found within it, and it was
also the starting point of many an exploring expe
dition in subsequent years. Before journeying towards
Bathurst, Oxley was anxious to see as much of the river
as possible, and accordingly he went down its banks
next day in company with Messrs. Evans and Cunning
ham. Crossing Bell's River, in the valley, they came
in one mile to where the steep rocky hills forming
the west side of the vale advance their perpendicular
cliffs directly over the channel. These were soon
passed, and they entered the vale to the north of them.
Alternate fine grazing hills, fertile flats, and valleys
formed its general outline. But there were variations
in the width which made it extremely picturesque.
Sometimes the cliffs from either side advanced and
narrowed the channel to a width of sixty or eighty
feet, with vast perpendicular rocky heights at either side.
Again, they retired into amphitheatres, and the river
formed noble reaches two hundred feet wide. The land
was as rich as could be imagined. The banks of the
reaches were low and shelving, while even at the highest
floods there were bergs or second banks, which would
restrain any inundation, because they were six hundred
to eight hundred feet wide, and the marks of the
highest floods upon them did not exceed twenty feet
perpendicular. But for all these advantages the river was not
navigable. There were rapids in its bed, formed by
strong islands or shallows some hundred yards wide.
They were not fordable when Oxley examined them.
There were two kinds of rock visible, limestone and
granite. The latter was known in many places else-

OXLEY'S EXPLORATIONS. 217
where, but the former was considered very important.
Owing to the predominance of the sandstone on the
west side of the range, limestone had become very much
needed, for, as yet, there was no prospect of getting
mortar unless by an expensive journey over the Blue
Mountains. So serious was this inconvenience felt to
be, that it had been seriously urged as a reason for
making the interior undesirable as a settlement. No
wonder, then, that Oxley should hail the discovery of
limestone as a great fact — one of the greatest which
resulted from his expedition.
For twelve miles he continued through this charm
ing country. The course of the river during the whole
distance was due north. At the twelfth mile they came
upon a perpendicular- limestone rock overhanging the
stream ; it was covered with a beautiful species of
flora ; and, a little lower down, the opposite bank of the
river was composed of perpendicular red earth cliffs,
about sixty feet high, extending three-quarters of a mile
along the reach. This was named Red Bank, and was the
turning-point of this journey down the Macquarrie River.
On the 22nd, the whole party began to move up the
stream towards Bathurst. They had scarcely laden
their horses when it began to rain, and as it continued
without intermission, they only made about six miles,
camping near a very fine reach. The country on both
sides was of the greatest possible fertility, beautifully
diversified by hills and open valleys. Immense quan
tities of fine limestone were again found, the rocks
being entirely composed of it. But there were more
rapids in the river. This fact was unimportant, Oxley
says; but the beautiful scenery he was now among
made him see everything couleur de rose.
On the 23rd August, the last allowance of provisions
was served out, and they proceeded up the river with
rather sanguine anticipations as to the end of that day's
journey. But the country proved rocky and moun
tainous, which prevented a rapid advance. Points of
hills frequently terminated in the river, and in every
valley watercourses joined the main stream, all of
which took time and labour to cross. The scenery was

218 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
beautifully picturesque. Oxley thought that nothing
fairer could be seen upon any river ; but the beauty of
the prospect must have been much marred by the
gloomy prospect of next day's rations.
The travelling was excessively bad along the sides
and points of the hills ; and as Oxley fancied that the
level was better in making a direct course for Bathurst,
he determined to leave the Macquarrie, and survey
upon a straight line. Accordingly, next day, he pre
pared to quit the river ; but now another unexpected
difficulty arose. Every moment's delay was of great
importance ; but difficulties seemed to increase at every
step. This morning there was so thick a fog that
they could not see fifty yards in any direction. When
it cleared away enough for them to leave the river,
they passed through a mountainous tract, extremely
irregular and stony, but full of springs, water, and
good grass. They could not go far or make long stages
in such places ; and they were deeply disappointed in
finding the back country not a tableland, but a succes
sion of ranges.
And thus they continued, ascending and descending,
climbing and stumbling, for the next four days. Each
day they expected to see Bathurst, as they had before
expected to see the Macquarrie ; and each day the
disappointment was renewed. No actual survey was
made now ; each man went as quickly as he could, and
left the hills and mountain glens unmeasured. Many
streams, tributaries of the Macquarrie, were crossed ;
many glens of perpendicular rocks were passed over,
but they remained undescribed. The horses, fortunately,
were daily improving ; otherwise, the men never could
have extricated themselves from the mountain defiles.
At last, on the 29th of August, their labours ter
minated ; Bathurst was reached, and Oxley told to the
astonished settlers his dismal tale of the interior.
Thus terminated Oxley 's expedition of 1817, whence
so many erroneous notions about the nature of the
continent were derived. It was many years before
they were completely dispelled, and the true character
of the interior rightly guessed.

219

CHAPTER X.
OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY.
Down the Macquarrie — Mount Harris— Mount Foster — Arbuthnot Range —
River overflows — Immense reedy lake — Boat journey — Proceeds eastward
— The Castlereagh — Floods — Mount Exmouth — Hardwicke's Range —
Wilsden Valley — Quicksands — Lushington's Valley — Liverpool Plains —
Peel's River — Passage of the Dividing Range — Apsley River • — The
Hastings — Port Macquarrie — The Manning.
It was easy to foretell what effect Oxley 's revelations
would have upon the colonists of New South Wales.
It could not be doubted that an expedition would be
once more fitted out to explore the Macquarrie ; for
an extraordinary geographical problem had now to
be settled. There were two rivers flowing into the
interior of an immense continent. One received no
tributaries, but the other did ; and, so far as could be
ascertained, must flow onward as an immense body of
water. Nor did they empty themselves upon the coast —
at least as far as it was known. The careful surveys of
Flinders and others seemed to render the probability of
any large river on the shore very small indeed. Now,
if there were no outlet for the drainage from the west
side of the Blue Mountains, the water must congregate
in the interior in the form of an immense inland lake.
To reach this as soon as possible, and explore its broad
waters, was the earnest desire of every colonist. No
difficulty was anticipated in doing so. The Lachlan, it
is true, had terminated in a series of shallow marshes ;
but then that river received no tributaries in its long
course. With the Macquarrie it was far different.
The lower its banks were explored, the more tributaries
were found; and if there were rapids in the upper

220 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
part, the increasing volume of water would make them
disappear, until a fine, deep, broad channel was attained,
which would bring explorers easily to the vast inland
ocean. This expanse of water, therefore, presented itself
to the delighted imagination of the colonists as a
splendid area for investigation. It would, of course,
have fertile shores and large tracts of available land in
its vicinity. Possibly, the furthest mountains of the
western coast might be reached by its aid ; and, at
any rate, the mystery of the interior would be solved
with the aid of very simple means. But it would be
necessary to wait a little while before starting a second
exploring party. As this was to be embarked in boats
only, the winter season would be available, because
then the Macquarrie would be in flood.
It was not until May of the following year, 1818,
that arrangements were definitely made. The command
was given a second time to Lieutenant Oxley. With a
view to lessen the inconvenience of the preliminary por
tion of the journey, a party was sent on in advance, to
the furthest point on the Macquarrie reached the previous
year, there to form a depot with the bulk of the stores,
and two large boats. Oxley arrived at Bathurst, in
company with Dr. Harris, on the 25th May, 1818.
Some little arrangements having been completed on
the 28th, they again set out with the baggage horses
and the men which Were to compose the expedition.
At first, they kept nearly upon the return track of the
preceding August ; but, on approaching Wellington
Valley, by keeping a little more to the westward, they
avoided much of the former steep and rugged road, and
travelled over open valleys and flats ; the hills being
all composed of limestone. Thus, with little or no
interruption, they reached the depot on the 2nd June.
The boats, stores, &c, had arrived in safety, and all
Avas in readiness for a start.
Having crossed the river, they commenced, on the
6th June, again to penetrate the wilds of the unknown
interior. The boats were laden with the stores, and
slowly glided down the stream, while the rest of the

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 221
party, with the horses, explored along the bank. The
journey lay generally amid an open forest country,
with rich flats on either side of the stream. But these
were occasionally interrupted. High, rocky, limestone
hills jutted out at times, as cliffs, close to the channel,
and then the horses were obliged to climb the eminences
or made considerable detours. The ranges were rather
stony, and so light was the soil upon them that the
least rain made the ground very soft. But, for all these
inconveniences, the Macquarrie itself gave compensation
by its promising appearance. There were many fine
reaches extending in straight lines, from one to three
miles, and broad in proportion. There were rapids, it
is true, and of rather too frequent occurrence ; but there
was a good depth of water upon them, so that they
offered no obstruction to the boats, and the current, at
the same time, was scarcely perceptible.
On the 8 th, the river expanded into beautiful reaches,
having great depth of water, some five hundred feet
broad. They were literally covered with waterfowl
of various kinds. The wild ducks flew up in whirling
dark clouds, as they passed; and the black swan,
uttering its mournful cry, from their very numbers,
were able to sail by the boat uninjured, arching their
necks disdainfully at the intrusion. Two more tribu
taries were passed, the same as those channels which had
been crossed by the party on the former journey. They
both joined on the south bank, on which side there
was the greatest extent of rich land. The horses were
upon the north side. The land was of various descrip
tions, with rather many barren and stony hills ; but
still there was a goodly amount of rich soil in flats,
which were not apparently liable to inundation. On
the hills were many specimens of agate, ironstone, and
jasper ; and even where the stones were most abundant,
good grass of rich growth everywhere abounded. An
excursion to the north-east, made on the 10th, did not
show any new features. The country was still low and
regular on every side, except to the south, where the
distant blue summits of ranges could be seen.
On the 11th, they had proceeded about eighty miles

222 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
without meeting any obstruction. The water in the
river had risen about a foot during the night, and was
now flowing with considerable velocity. Towards
evening they came upon a small stream from the
eastward, running rapidly. There was a fresh in it,
so that it was much too deep and rapid to ford. The
horses were therefore unloaded, and the boats used to
transport the baggage over ; this occupied until night.
The camp was pitched at the further side of the new
creek, which was named the Erskine, after the lieu
tenant-governor of the colony. It was the first stream
met with flowing from the eastward, and proved the
important fact that the Macquarrie was the channel of
drainage of a large tract of country to the north-east.
The country passed through on this day was of the
finest description, and apparently equally good on both
sides of the river. Rich flats, bounded by gentle hills,
lined the banks of the Erskine. The party had as yet
seen no natives, and only very few signs of their visits
to these fertile parts.
For many days after crossing the Erskine, their
course was through an unvarying country. At first
the soil was good, but its quality diminished as they
advanced. Little by little, it became poor, and very
much intersected with acacia, through which the party
had great difficulty in forcing their way. The land on
either side of the river was an uninterrupted level plain.
A gradual change had taken place in the banks. In
the upper part they were high, and the stream broad
and deep ; but by degrees they became much lower,
and the back country evidently subject to inundations.
The rapids still continued, but not, as formerly, in the
deep parts. Granite rocks now peeped above the surface,
making the ultimate navigation of the Macquarrie very
questionable indeed. There were no more tributaries
either from north or south ; but still the river was rising,
and looking now not unlike the Lachlan. Oxley had
painful misgivings as to the result of this journey.
The silent monotony of the rapid stream was ominously
like a river he remembered but too well.
On the 23rd June, having come upwards of one

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 223
hundred and twenty-five miles from Wellington Valley,
he sent back two men to report progress to the gover
nor. He had not much cheering news to give ; but still
his prospect of reaching the inland sea was not entirely
destroyed, and he said so. If the country had not been
so terribly level, his hopes would have been greater ; but
in this respect it was worse than that near the Lachlan.
But, on the 27th, a change came. They were all on
that day agreeably surprised by the sight of a small
hill, about a mile to the eastward. They hastened to it,
full of hope that the country to the north would be
elevated ; but they were disappointed. Nothing was
visible, except one hill to the north-east, amid the vast
wooded plain which lay at their feet. The other eleva
tion was higher than the one they were upon, which
was scarcely seventy feet ; it was a barren granite
rock, in fact, about a quarter of a mile long, and half as
wide. The hill to the north-east was climbed more
anxiously than the first. The view was again a disap
pointment. The prospect was extensive, for it could
not well be otherwise in such a plain ; but the very
extent was the disheartening part of it. There was no
indication of a change of country, or a termination of
the river. The only interruption to the wooded level
was a clear open space here and there, where a marsh
interrupted the boundless ocean of dark-brown foliage.
No one who has not seen it can form any idea of the
effect of such an expanse upon the mind. The Pacific,
with its heaving waves and ever-varying hues of blue,
purple, green, and white, is a changeful scene — a
perfect kaleidoscope, in comparison with one of these
seas of foliage. Sky and trees, blue and brown, are all
that lie before you ; but had it more variety, it wants
the voice of the ocean or its movement — all is silent ;
all is in still repose. But Oxley saw in all this some
thing more dispiriting than an amateur could detect.
The silence and the stillness were the grave of his hopes,
until he turned to the eastward.
On that side there was something to cheer him ;
but, unfortunately, it was not in the direction he wished.

224 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
There was a stupendous chain of mountains lifting its
rugged huge summits, about seventy miles off. This
was too far away to think of exploration there ; and
Oxley knew nothing about his chances of seeing them
on his return. They were named Arbuthnot Ranges,
and the hill he was upon was called Mount Harris.
The latter was an important hill in this survey, and
the one made afterwards in this direction by Sturt.
Oxley was destined to go but very little beyond it ; but
he hardly foresaw then how near he was to the only
inland sea he was ever likely to find. There was one
small hill a little further on, and this was named after
Lieutenant Foster, R.N., whoever he may have been.
Both the hills were of granite, and about two miles
long, by half a mile wide. Small heaps of granite
fragments were heaped about in different directions, and *
yet there did not appear to be any signs of native habi
tations about.
They spent one day at Mount Harris, and, on the
29th, proceeded down the stream. This day's journey
was an eventful one. They had not gone very far when
the river banks were so low, and the water so high,
that it was evident they were about to renew their ex
perience at the Lachlan. At five miles from the camp
the water was even with the banks, and a little further
on it overflowed them. But this might only be a
marsh, said Oxley, who hoped against hope. The horses
were ordered to be taken round the swampy ground,
while the boat kept the main channel. There was great
congratulation when it was found that this was only a
marsh after all ; the whole party encamped together on
rather wet ground, and the river was still very high.
Next day, they again advanced full of hope, thinking,
perhaps, this might be the only instance of overflow
they should find. But their progress was interrupted
much sooner than they anticipated. They had hardly
gone six miles, when they perceived that the waters
which had overflowed the banks were spreading over
the plains on which they were travelling, and that with
a rapidity which precluded any hope of making the
river again to the north-west. This was the direction in

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 225
which it was supposed to run. Their situation was
critical. A trifling delay might prevent their return.
The safety of the whole party appeared to depend upon
their reaching the station left that morning as soon as
possible. The horses were therefore ordered back. But
it was necessary to communicate with the boats. Two
men, wading for about three miles up to their waist in
water, reached the banks of the stream and hailed the
boats as they passed. All were now able to return to
the encampment, and while they rested after their
severe fatigue, the increase of the flood, and the rapid
spreading of the waters, told them that they must soon
return to Mount Harris.
Oxley, however, determined to investigate the river as
far as possible.^ He proposed to take the large boat, with
•four volunteers, and a month's provisions, to explore
the channel as far as he could. In the meanwhile, he
ordered the rest of the party, with the horses and stores,
to return to Mount Harris, which was now about fifteen
miles away. They were there to form a depot, and then
Mr. Evans was to proceed fifty or sixty miles to the
north-east, in order to find what chances they had of
water in that direction, in case they should wish to
make for the coast. One would have thought that there
need have been no anxiety about want of water, situated
as they were ; and how much their fears should have
taken the other direction the sequel will show.
The 2nd of July commenced as one of the most
stormy days they had yet experienced. The wind blew
a hurricane, and the rain came down in such torrents,
that Oxley was thankful that his party would soon be
back at Mount Harris. Having made all his arrange
ments, he embarked in his boat. When he had gone a
little distance the banks disappeared, and a marsh con
fused the river with the water of the plains. There
was, he says, properly speaking, no country. The river
overflowed its banks, and divided itself into streams
which had no permanent separation from the main
branch, but united themselves to it at a hundred points.
The boat, however, went in all about twenty-eight miles,
when they stopped for the night on a small dry island,
VOL. I. Q

226 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
which was scarcely large enough to light a fire upon.
The principal stream ran with great rapidity, and its
banks, and the neighbourhood, as far as they could see,
were covered with wood. Vast spaces which were clear
of timber were under water, and covered with reeds
which grew six or seven feet above the surface. Mean
while, the storm raged fearfully, as the explorers slept
by the side of their flickering fire, and the dimensions of
their little island grew smaller and smaller.
On the 3rd, towards morning, the storm moderated,
and at daylight they proceeded on their voyage. The
main bed of the river was much contracted, but very
deep,, the waters spreading to the depth of a foot or
eighteen inches over the banks, but these were still
keeping on the same bearing. The boat met with con
siderable interruption from fallen timber, which in places-
nearly choked up the channel. After going about
twenty miles, they lost the land and trees. All around
them now was an expanse of water, densely clothed with
waving reeds. The depth of the water was not great ;
on the contrary, it was so shallow, that the boat had not
much more than sufficient water to float her. But it
was still possible to trace the channel of the river by the
open space in the reeds, and by its rapid northerly
flow. Thus they continued for three or four miles further ;
the green walls of reeds only showing here and there
glimpses of their vast extent. Although there had been
no change in the breadth, depth, or strength of the
current, Oxley was still sanguine in his expectations of
soon entering the long-desired inland sea. As long as
the channel continued defined, there was no difficulty in
advancing, and he did not doubt that the reeds were on
the edge of the great fresh-water ocean, into which he
was sweeping rapidly. But a sudden change came
which destroyed his hopes. All at once the channel
failed. It unexpectedly spread out on eyery point from
north-west to north-east, and quite eluded further inves
tigation amid the ocean of reeds which surrounded
them. There was no channel whatever among the
reeds, and the depth varied from three to five feet in

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 227
the marsh over which they were floating. Oxley looked
around him in vain. He sounded, and explored, and
searched in every direction. But it was of no use.
The channel had disappeared. He stood up in the boat
and gazed around him. Water and reeds met his gaze
upon every side without a sign of the Macquarrie on
any side. With a heavy heart, he resolved on the only
alternatives now left him — and they were, first to retrace
his path, and next to find a place where he might rest
that night.
We may easily imagine how puzzled and worn-out
poor Oxley was that evening. What his reflections
were, we can fortunately learn from his journal, an
extract from which here follows. Readers may perhaps
smile at many of the views here advanced, but however
amusing it may be to view these oracular theories, aided
by- recent discoveries, we must admit that appearances
almost justified the opinion he formed.
" To assert," he says, "positively, that we were on
the margin of the lake or sea into which this great body
of water is discharged, might reasonably be deemed a
conclusion which has nothing but conjecture for its
basis ; but if an opinion may be hazarded from actual ap
pearances, mine is decidedly in favour of our being in
the immediate vicinity of an inland sea or lake — most
probably a shoal one, and gradually filling up by im
mense depositions from the higher lands left by the
waters which flow into it. It is most singular that the
high lands on this continent seemed to be confined to
the sea coast, or not to extend to any great distance
from it."
Nearly sixty miles had Oxley come from Mount
Harris, and this distance he proceeded to retrace as
rapidly as his men could row. On the 7th, he reached
his depot camp. Mr. Evans had just started on his
journey to Arbuthnot Range. Of course, Oxley had to
wait his return, and this did not take place until the
18th. This was a long delay for the party, but it could
not be helped. The marsh prevented any exploration,
except in the way they had come, or the way the
advance party had gone. While they waited, the
Q 2

228 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
swamps of the Macquarrie rose higher and higher,
until Mount Harris was almost completely surrounded,
and the water had nearly reached Mr. Oxley's tent.
Mr. Evans reported that he had been unable to^
follow the north-east course as directed, because in that
direction he came across many channels flowing'through
high reeds. About fifty miles from Mount Harris a large
river was crossed ; it was wider than the Macquarrie,
but not so deep, and ran to the north. It was named the
Castlereagh. Its bed was nearly a hundred yards wide,
and its banks eight or nine feet high A little further
on, another stream was crossed, and then the country
became so bad, that Mr. Evans gave up the idea of
reaching Arbuthnot Range, which was the only eleva
tion now visible all round the horizon. The country
passed through was low, flat, marshy, and covered
with Acacia pendula. In returning, the party took a
more northerly course, where the ground, though wet,
was much better than where they had passed before.
This bad news did not deter Oxley. There was
nothing left him except to retrace his steps, or go to
Arbuthnot Range, and the latter course he courageously
resolved upon. On the 20th July he broke up his camp,
and made straight for the ranges to the east. The
course was alternately over wet flats and dry scrub,
with, occasionally, very boggy ground. In the latter,
the country was so level that the smallest inequality
could not be discovered, and yet there was a fall to the
northward, for the waters ran very rapidly in that direc
tion. Two chains of ponds were passed, namely, Mor-
rissett's and Wallis's Ponds. On the 25th, they reached
the Castlereagh, which was now so high that there was
not the slighest chance of crossing it until the waters
subsided. The water was only level with the first or
lower bank, but the weather continued fearfully wet,
and it rose so rapidly, that the bank upon which they
were was the only spot not merged in a universal inun
dation. For seven days they were confined to this
small spot, with dreary sheets of water all around
them, and. not until the 2nd August were they able to
ford the river.

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 229
It was about the 7th that they reached one of the
outlying hills of the range to which they were journey
ing. Their trials during the interim cannot be exagge
rated : they were nearly all the time either wading
through water up to their waists, or staggering through
bogs and quagmires, so that ten miles' journey for men
and horses was a day's work of fearful fatigue. But
they reached more elevated ground at last. It was only
a limestone hill, it is true, and Arbuthnot Range lay still
five miles away ; but they were at least off the boggy
ground, and their sufferings in that way had terminated
for a time. The range now loomed before them with
great magnificence : its sides were clothed with timber,
and the gullies were here and there grassy, but the
summits were naked, sharp rocks, which threw out a
bold and jagged outline into the sky. The northern
extremity of the range was named Mount Exmouth, the
centre Mount Harrison, and the southern end Vernon's
Peak. Mount Exmouth was the highest, and on the
8th August they started to ascend it. At its base they
crossed a pretty stream of water, which had its source
in the mount, and meandered over the plains in a more
picturesque manner than water had appeared to do since
the early part of their journey. It took nearly two
hours' hard labour to ascend the rugged summit, but they
were rewarded by a most extensive view of the sur
rounding country.
To the west, Mounts Harris and Foster, whose ele
vation did not exceed 300 feet, were plainly visible at a
distance of eighty-nine miles. These two spots excepted,
from north to south it was as level as the sea. To the
east the aspect was varied enough : the hills were innu
merable, and, amid the smaller ones, mountains of consi
derable elevation raised their heads from time to time,
crowned with perpendicular rocks of every shape and
variety, all showing the barren red fronts, and the hori
zontal strata of the Blue Mountain sandstone. To this
grand and picturesque scenery, Mount Exmouth pre
sented a perpendicular cliff of at least 1000 feet high,
when its descent became more gradual to its base in the
fair valley beneath. The height of the mountain is

230 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
altogether about 3000 feet, forming a splendid fore
ground to the scene which lies below its precipices.
On the north-east the view was rendered more beau
tiful by the grey outlines of a lofty and magnificent
range of hills, which could not have been much less
than one hundred and twenty miles distant. They were
called the Hardwicke Range, and its highest elevations
were named respectively Mount Aspley and Mount
Shirley. The country between Mount Exmouth and
this boundary range was broken into rugged hills, and
apparently deep vallej^s, with several minor ranges of
hills. The high lands from the east to the south-east
gradually lessened to the north-west, where they were
lost in the immense level, which extended to the west
ward like a dark abyss, in which both water and moun
tain were alike hidden. Mount Exmouth seemed to be
principally composed of the ironstone which was found
upon it. Its perpendicular cliffs were basaltic, according
to Oxley's description. Mount Harris, on the contrary,
was of granite, like that found upon the Lachlan.
On the 10th, Oxley proceeded on his journey, in a
north-east course, over low forest hills of good land.
The next day, however, the road became boggy, because
they were entangled amid the streams which flow from
the east side of Arbuthnot Range. They could not
keep their course, for they were glad to follow good
sound land wherever they could find it, and this was
certainly not everywhere. On the 13th, they only made
six miles, and even in the course of that short distance
the horses had to be unladen ; in fact, they were almost
submerged in a sort of quicksand, and the men had to
carry the baggage, piece by piece, across about half a
mile of ground before the animals could be loaded again.
The soil consisted of about two or three inches of light
mould, and eighteen inches of sand, upon a rocky bot
tom. When trodden upon, the water would squirt up,
and the ground give way like mere mud, but would
close firmly round immediately after, so that it held the
horses' legs like a vice.*
* These quicksands are common throughout the Australian continent, and
are known by a name which is more characteristic than elegant.

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 231
Quicksands of a similar nature prevented their reach
ing a small creek running under a high, craggy ridge
of hills ; and they, therefore, stopped at the edges of
them, every one completely worn out with his exer
tions. The appearance of the country passed over was
most desolate and forbidding, but quite open, and inter
spersed with miserable rocky crags, on which gum and
cypress trees grew. Impeded by rain and quicksand,
they only advanced very slowly, even taking into
account the immense number of deviations from their
course which they were obliged to make. They suc
ceeded, however, on the 15th, in gaining some stony
hills, which, with two or three intervening marshy
valleys, continued for the rest of the day's journey,
the latter part being up rocky, barren hills, with nar
row defiles. From these heights they descended into a
pretty valley, of considerable extent, and, to their great
joy, of sound firm soil — a luxury they were long unused
to. This valley was named Wilsden Valley, and was
enclosed on all sides, except the north, by lofty rocky
hills of coarse sandstone.
Delayed by rain, they went but slowly down this
valley. Its end led them over barren stony ranges,
with marshy hollows of pure sand between them. It was
not until the evening of the 18th that any change came.
They then entered a very thick forest : the trees were
not large, and had been lately burnt ; their black stems
and branches, with the dull bluish colour of their foliage,
gave the place a singularly dismal and gloomy appear
ance. So thick was the forest that they could hardly
turn the horses, nor could the sun's rays penetrate to
the sandy soil upon which these trees grew ; yet, in
spite of the dense growth of wood, the ground was
treacherous in the extreme. Without the least appear
ance of a bog, the horses would suddenly sink, flounder
ing into a quagmire. What with trees and quicksands,
their situation was very distressing. They could not
see which way to turn, and, finally, they were obliged
to traverse the margin of an extensive quicksand for
nearly three miles, in a direction contrary to their
course, before they could find firm ground, or water for

232 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the horses. The quicksands rose up in such numbers
around them that they were almost in despair. On the
19th, they did nothing but travel in circles, round and
round ; first avoiding one bog and then another ; until
the exhaustion of the horses obliged them to stop. On
the 20th, after travelling about nine miles, and having,
at the risk of their lives, pushed the horses through
some of the minor branches of the bog, what was their
mortification to find they were only about one hundred
yards from the place from which they had „ set out.
They had at first attempted to cross the minor bog in a
northerly direction, and afterwards had kept along its
edge, southerly, and the result was that they found it to
extend in a complete circle around them. From a slight
rise in the centre of it, they could see the country north
ward. It was low and uneven. Hardwicke's Range
was distant now about forty miles.
The result of this day's exertion quite subdued their
fortitude : they knew not which way to turn themselves,
and were almost inclined to despair. To return to
Arbuthnot Range, and again undergo what they had
already so bitterly experienced, could not be thought of.
It was decided to travel back far enough to reach 'the
high lands, and then keep more to the south-east. This
they expected to do by Saturday evening. Twenty
miles back, they had left land of considerable elevation,
and they could only hope that in its vicinity they would
find a dry ridge to take them where they proposed
going. On the 23rd August, they returned to Parry's
Rivulet, within twelve miles of Wilsden Valley, which
was the whole distance they had gone towards the
coast, although they had travelled over seventy. Their
course was now up the banks of the rivulet, on a
southerly course. They experienced fewer difficulties
than hitherto in this direction, and at evening entered
a good forest in a valley, with tolerable grass. Better
days now began to dawn upon them. On the 25th,
when three or four miles from their last camp, a
splendid view began to unfold before them. About
fifteen miles in advance, from the south-east to east,

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 233
there were forests, hills, and extensive flats : the latter
had not an encouraging appearance. The plains were
quite destitute of timber, and white, as if covered with
salt. Neverthless, they moved as rapidly as they could
towards them. Their journey was over very boggy,
rugged country, and they camped in a valley, bounded
east and west by rocky hills, with good soil and better
grass. On the 26th, while Mr. Evans proceeded with the
horses to the plains, Lieutenant Oxley went towards
a spacious valley before him. This he soon reached,
and travelled down its centre, along the banks of a
beautiful stream of water, which fertilized and drained
it. The extent of this valley to the south-west could
not be discovered, as it windings were lost amid the
forest hills, which swelled in slowly fading outlines
into the far distance. Oxley then went down be
tween seven and eight miles to the east, and regained
the horses at the base of an elevated, conical hill,
standing detached at the east end of the valley, which
was here four or five miles wide. On ascending this
hill, the view was on all sides the most varied and
encouraging. Hills, dales, and plains, of the richest de
scription, lay before them. They were bounded to the
east first by low mounds, and then by elevated moun
tains, which seemed lofty and grand enough to be the
great coast range of the Blue Mountains. Hardwicke's
Range was now only thirty-five miles distant : an exten
sive valley, eight or ten miles wide, led up to it.
In this great valley were numerous hills and plains
thinly studded with timber, and watered by a stream,
down the banks of which they had travelled. From
its eastern side the slopes rose to a loftier elevation,
but were still thinly timbered and covered with grass.
To the south-east very lofty forest hills bounded plains
which were at least twenty-five miles wide in some
parts, and forty in others. These were the plains seen the
day before, whose white appearance made Oxley
imagine that they were covered with salt. In this
respect he was agreeably disappointed. He found them
to consist of rich, dry, vegetable soil ; and though from

234 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
their vast extent they were called plains, yet the
surface was slightly broken into gentle eminences, with
occasional clumps of timber, or dotted lines of trees.
The white appearance was, fortunately, not owing
to salt ; but the grass had been burnt early in the year,
and the young growth had subsequently been killed by
the frost. In any case, the plains of grass in Australia are
not green, except in the early spring. The fields at
a distance are a pale yellow, and corn fit for reaping,
fully realizes the scriptural saying, of being white for
the harvest; for that is the colour which the fields
then assume.
The little rivulet which watered the north-west side
of this tract of country had overflowed recently ; but
the ground left by the retreating waters was as firm
and solid as the rest : the sides of the hills were of the
same black mould as the plains ; above this, they were
generally capped with basaltic columns, piled with all
the fantastic irregularity assumed by that rock — the
spectacle altogether was a beautiful one, forming no
exception to the almost universal rule in Australia,
that where volcanic rock is found, there also is splendid
scenery and rich soil. The plains were called after
Lord Liverpool, and the valleys around after various
members of his cabinet, or political celebrities of the day.
The country seemed uninhabited by the natives. It lay
under the sun with its rich land, its hills, and its park
like clumps of trees, only wanting the hand of man to
utilize it. It seems almost a pity to have broken in
upon its loneliness, and bring upon it towered cities and
the busy haunts of men ; but the charm of its solitude
was to bid farewell, when Oxley's party gazed upon it.
They now pursued their way across the plains to the
distant hills which fringed the further side of them.
They had hardly gone six miles when they came upon
a fine stream of water crossing from south to north :
this seemed the only drainage that there was, for the
rest of the water seemed to collect upon the surface in
large pools. From the banks of the stream, Oxley
could see that the plains divided into three large
branches. Of the extent of the two external sides,

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 235
he could only judge from the lofty chain of hills which
seemed to bound them in the distance. Hardwicke's
Range was one of these boundaries ; but beautifully
picturesque low hills and valleys intervened between.
The first day's journey on Liverpool Plains was to a
hill, named View Hill, about fourteen miles from their
last camp. Chains of low forest hills were scattered
here and there, on which the black looking trees which
swept up the slopes gave a life-like and a sort of mourn
ful appearance ; and yet the scene was picturesque in
the extreme ; for the acacias and Australian apple were
in flower, adding their brilliant colours to the landscape
and their fragrant odour to the breeze.* But travelling
was not so pleasant as the scenery. Heavy rains had
made the rich loose loam into a stiff clay, as awkward
for men and horses as a ploughed field : this was more
annoying, as they saw at the time an immense number
of kangaroos and emus, of which they would have killed
more than they did, had the horses been able to run
upon the clay as easily as the dogs.
It took, in all, three days to cross the Liverpool
Plains, and then they rested one day on the edge of an
extensive flat, bounded on the far side by the range of
mountains seen from Lushington's Valley, and which
was named Melville's Range : this name has been met
many times before in connection with other explorations.
The fact is, our coast is burdened with every possible
change upon the name of Saunders Dundas, Viscount
Melville; because that famous individual happened
to have been once a Lord of the Admiralty, and subse
quently lost the office, as is well known. Mount Dundas
was, of course, the name given to the mount by the side
of the encampment ; and, be pleased to remark, that this
name occurs in other parts of the coast — one hardly
knows how many ; so fond were naval men either of ig
noring the discoveries of others, currying favour with
patrons, or creating endless geographical confusion.
From Mount Dundas, they crossed the flat before
* Where the acacia grows abundantly, the odour in spring from the
blossoms scents the air for miles around, and becomes sometimes quite over
powering. The smell is like that of English Hawthorn (May).

236 DISCOVERY^AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
them. The centre of it was occupied by a river flowing
to the north-west over a broken but very picturesque
country. This stream was only a tributary of a fine
river — the Peel, which they met further on ; which,
like the Macquarrie, seemed a sort of channel for the
western waters into the unknown interior. If the
occurrence of rich and fertile tracts had formerly de
lighted them, they were nothing to the country before
them. Their journey now lay through lands of surpass
ing richness and peaceful beauty. To particularize
their daily discoveries would be tedious, from the same
ness, in point of fertile splendour, which all parts
possessed. It was the Wellington Valley country over
again, of the same character and from the same causes.
The Peel is one of the branches of the Darling; or
rather one of the feeders of that great stream, which
winds over thousands of miles of land before it reaches
the sea upon the south coast : it flows down the Goul-
burn Valley, and, like all the western valleys of the
watershed, is carpeted with mossy verdure and decked
with all the glories of the Australian flora. Oxley
struck away from the Peel at the junction of the Cock-
burn River — another charming variety of craggy
features and flowery rivulets. It was evident that they
were approaching the Dividing Range, or the continua
tion of the Blue Mountains.
On the 7th of September, they commenced ascending
the last and most precipitous portion of the country,
which had been gradually ascending for the last thirty
miles. The same day, they reached what appeared to
be the summit of the range — not the Dividing Range ;
they were not to get over tltat so easily ; but the outside
range they were upon, and they had. a view from it
over the fertile country behind, besides a glimpse of
the road before them to the eastward — the latter
broken and very hilly. To men weak and worn-out, it
gave a discouraging prospect of their labours for some
days ; but, unfortunately for their comfort, the idea was
only a very faint representation of the reality. The
ridge they were upon soon expanded northward, into
a broad surface of open forest land ; while a stream in

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 237
the same direction showed its silvery windings in the
eastern valley below them.
As soon, as they had commenced ascending the
Dividing Range, a remarkable change took place in the
appearance of the country. The boxwood gum was re
placed by the lofty blue gum, which grew in great
luxuriance, and threw up its massive boughs in tiers like
terraces along the mountain sides. Until now, this
species had not been seen by the explorers, except near
running streams. Stringy bark trees were also seen —
so called, because the rough bark has a brown tenacious
fibre, like that of the cocoa-nut, which can be split off
in sheets to make the roofs of houses, or unravelled
into a fibre that will tie like string. The soil, too, had
changed from the Liverpool Plains : it was no longer
the rich black mould, but a stiff, yellow, tenacious clay,
which supported a little grass of inferior kinds. The
stone was the same as that in the Blue Mountains near
Sydney — the reddish sandstone, of which the reader
will hear enough before these volumes close.
Down the valley the party went, and camped by the
side of the mountain stream. Next day, they began to
ascend again ; and, on the 10th, the summit of a new
range was reached. Then they partly understood
the terrible nature of the task upon which they were
engaged. They saw the true nature of the country
before them. From north to south it was broken into
perpendicular rocky ridges, and divided by deep and
impassable gorges — the latter differed in character from
those in the Blue Mountains near Sydney; for the
precipices abutted upon fine open forest land, which ap
peared of the richest soil. The rocks again were more
like basalt than sandstone. This was, so far, encouraging ;
but the country to the .eastward seemed even more un
equal and broken, and with great misgivings they
moved onward in that direction. Their misgivings were
not ill-founded. On the 11th, their progress was
stopped by a tremendous ravine, running north and
south. Its breadth at the bottom was only one hundred
to two hundred feet, whilst the separation of the outer
edges was from two to three miles : it was three

238 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
thousand feet deep. To descend was out of the question :
the slopes were so steep and so covered with loose
stones that an attempt to descend, even on foot, was
impracticable. From either side of this abyss small ravines of
similar character diverged, and the distance between
these seldom exceeded half a mile. They all had small
rills of water trickling down their sides, but it was im
possible to say which way the water at the bottom of
the valley ran, for the current was concealed by a thicket
of vines and creeping plants. In the far distance, to the
eastward, the coast was plainly visible, but the inter
vening country was of terrible aspect. It was of equal
height, and not at all broken by mountain peaks or lofty
elevations ; but, to make up for this, it was fissured by
enormous glens and refts, like the one upon the edges
of*which they were now standing.
It was no use trying to cross this ravine, the only
thing, therefore, was to keep to the south, along the
edge, and look for some favourable place for descending.
They hoped that the valley waters would run in a
northerly direction, in which case they might chance to
light upon the watershed, between it and the Hunter
River. If, on the contrary, the waters ran southerly,
their junction with the same river might suit their pur
pose just as well.
During the whole of the 12th, they were obliged to
keep along the edge of the glen. Oxley says in his
journal, that " it would be impossible to form any idea
of the wild magnificence of the scenery without the aid
of Salvator's pencil." Such a painter would find here
an ample field for genius, and the mountain a genius
worthy only of them. The glen led them to the west
ward, but there were others which fell into it from
the southward, and they perceived that the waters ran
north-easterly, which gave them hopes of soon reaching
the head. Several times in the course of the day they
attempted to descend on foot, but after getting a few
hundred yards, with much difficulty, they were always
stopped by perpendicular precipices. The ridge was
very stony, and thickly timbered with gum trees and

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 239
shea oaks of a lofty kind, with pretty good grass be
tween them.
• As they. advanced, the stream in. the valley became
larger and larger, until it was a regular river. This
embarrassed their journey considerably, because the
number of tributaries increased, and each tributary had
a glen belonging to it, which caused the party to
deviate very much from the way they wished to go.
On the second day after the discovery of the glen, their
course was stopped at the edge of a magnificent water
fall. It was a small river which came down a glen to
join the valley stream, and meeting at the edge of the
ravine with a precipice, went tumbling over it in splendid
cataracts and broken falls, until it reached the river
about a mile below. While on the edge of the fall,
it commenced raining heavily, so that they were obliged
to remain here a day or two, much against their will.
During the interval, men were sent to examine in front
of them for some passage over the glen. Two of the
men traced it up so far as to ascertain that the river
which so embarrassed them was identical with one they
had crossed just before climbing the last range. It
entered into the glen in a fall of vast height, but above
it there was no difficulty in crossing, as the country
became clear and of moderate elevation.
On the 15th September, they first attempted the pass
nearest to them, which was xeported to be practicable.
The horses, with tolerable ease, descended the first
ridge, which was about one-third down, but it was im
possible to proceed one step further with them, and it
was only with the utmost difficulty that they were got
back again. Three of them rolled over, and were saved
from being precipitated to the bottom by the thick
growth of trees. Thus the first pass was given up.
Quitting it, they proceeded to the next glen. Here
many streams fell over perpendicular heights, which
were awful to gaze upon, apart from the beauty of the
numerous cascades. It was no use attempting a descent
there, so they went five or six njiles further. This
brought them to that part of the river which enters the
glen, after passing through a picturesque and level

240 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
country. This was the finest cataract of all those found
in these mountains. It surpassed all the others _ in
splendour and magnificence. The river, after flowing
through the broken country just named, here divided
into two streams, the whole width of which is about
seventy yards. At this spot the mountains seem cleft
in twain, and divided to their very foundations. A
ledge of rocks, two or three feet above the level of the
other side, divide the waters into two, which, falling
over a perpendicular rock 240 feet high, forms a grand
cascade. At a distance of 300 yards from the fall
the party were wetted by the spray, which arose like a
small rain from the bottom. The noise was deafening,
and if the river had been full, so as to cover its entire
bed, would have been much more grand and sublime.
But this was not the whole of its beauty or sublimity.
Oxley and his men looked down upon a series of falls,
rapids, and cascades, which made the windings of the
stream seem now frosted — and again like burnished
silver. After the first fall, the water wound through the
cleft rocks for about 400 yards, and then fell again
about a hundred feet in a single sheet. It then con
tinued in a succession of smaller falls, about a quarter of
a mile lower, where the cliffs are of perpendicular
height, on either side exceeding 1000 feet, and only
about 200 yards wide. From thence the stream de
scends as a fall, and is then lost to view because of the
narrowness and depth of the gullies through which it
runs. What gave the scene a more romantic aspect
was, that the rocks were all slates, whose grey or blue
colour made the dark chasms much more sombre in
character. They were divided by jagged refts, which
would seem, almost to fit into each other if they were
joined again. The whole country has undergone
changes which give it a peculiar character, and no one
can dismiss from his mind the impression when gazing
on the wild confusion with which the rocks are piled, that
these changes have been of a very violent character.
The fall, and the river itself, were named respec
tively, Bathurst Fall and Apsley River. It had taken
them a week to cross the latter, but as they now knew

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 241
that its direction was to the coast, they hoped to be able
to trace it to its mouth. It was soon found impossible
to do this. The course of the river was to the north,
and they wanted to go east. Thus the discovery of the
Lower Apsley, from its mouth in Tryal Bay, was made
by a surveyor from Sydney, who named it the M'Leay
River. As they proceeded eastward, they found better
travelling amid the hills, but the soil was a poor
clay, and the timber not so large as usual. There was
much good land in the gullies, through every one of
which a stream of water took its course to the Apsley.
Twelve miles from the latter, they arrived on the banks
of a considerable stream in a wide valley. This was
named the Croker River. Their journey from thence,
until the 22nd of September, was through forests and
along deep valleys, often crossing small streams, and
skirting large hills. The latter became more and more
difficult, until on the date just named, their track was a
continual ascending and descending over frightful pre
cipices, so covered with shrubs and creeping vines, that
a path had continually to be cut through them. To add
to their hardships, it rained incessantly, and was so thick
and dark, that it was with difficulty they could see
enough to avoid being dashed to pieces. About two
hours before sunset, after a descent of upwards of five
thousand feet, they were all at the bottom of a glen,
through which ran a small rivulet, falling to a still
greater depth over rocky precipices.
The opposite side was a mountain equally steep, and
in all respects like the one they had just descended.
The horses were so weak that it was impossible they
could take their loads up it, and yet they could not stop
where they were, for there was no grass, and scarcely
even room to lie down. The only resource was to aban
don their stores and provisions for the present. All the
heavy luggage was therefore left behind, and by unre
mitted exertions they were able to gain a small spot of
ground or terrace, intermediate between the top and the
gulf below. It was late in the evening before even this
much was accomplished. All the horses could not be
VOL. I. R

242 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
brought up. Two were unable to move either with or
without a load. Their position this night was the worst
one of all the journey. The rain ceased about nine o'clock,
and was succeeded by a storm of wind which terrified
even the naval experience of Lieutenant Oxley. It was
not exactly the wind which they feared, but he could
hear amid the storms the trees around him falling ; and
as his camp was in the midst of the forest, he expected
to be crushed to death every moment. It was the most
awful storm any of the men had ever seen, but towards
midnight it passed away.
Next day, the rest of the baggage was brought up to
the terrace, while Oxley explored the range. He pro
ceeded to the top of the mountain, which was two miles
distant, and very abrupt in places ; but on gaining the
summit he had a most magnificent view. To the north
and south the country was mountainous, and more
broken than they had yet seen, but, fortunately, not in
the direction of their path. The sea was at least fifty
miles away, but every point of its outline was plainly
visible. This was called Seaview Mountain. The
ascent of the rest of the party with the baggage was
worse than anything they had yet undergone. One of
the very strongest of the horses actually burst with the
exertion of toiling up the mountainside, so that the entrails
trailed upon the ground when it reached the summit.
Of course, it was immediately shot.
The descent of Seaview Mountain was as memorable
to the party as the ascent. It occupied the whole of
the 24th, though the distance was only two miles and
three-quarters. The extraordinary steepness made the
principal difficulty, and the utmost care was necessary
to prevent the horses being dashed to pieces. Only one
consideration made them descend at this spot, and that
was, that they were upon the top of a hill, and must
come down somehow.
Seaview Mountain terminated in a narrow, steep
valley, through which a small stream ran. It soon
joined a large river, running from the northward. This
was named the Hastings. Their journey, for many
days, was simply down the river valley, on an almost

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 243
due-east course. The Hastings was found to be joined
by many tributaries, the principal of which were
named the Forbes, the Ellenborough, and the King.
The soil gradually improved as they advanced, getting
not only richer and more thickly grassed, but supporting
a very thick growth of bushes and trees. Near the
coast, the land was of surpassing richness ; and their
progress was much impeded by the tangled vegetation
of the forest, through which they had many times to
cut a road. But such difficulties were not felt so severely
in the country they were in, which was beautiful
enough to make all labours seem light. The river was
now a broad, placid sheet of water, which wound in and
out amid the thick bush, and seemed at every fresh
bend to offer new features of tranquil beauty. The
brush, where thick, was dense with a most luxuriant
vegetation, amongst which were lofty, graceful trees of
Australian mahogany and Sydney cedar. When the
party were close to the coast, and the roar of the surf
had made the proximity of the sea evident, the brush
became more open. But still their progress was but
slow. They had now to cross the junctions of many
rivers, which were near the termination of their courses,
and, therefore, broad and formidable.
On the 8th October, they terminated the second
stage of their journey. On that day they passed over
three miles of good country, three or four miles south of
the river, and afterwards came to a large fresh-water
lake, seven miles in circumference. This was a beau
tiful sheet of water, which would have secured a length
ened examination at any other time ; but now all was
haste to the coast. Passing by its broad, sunny ex
panse, over which a fresh breeze was blowing, they
came to a small but deep stream. This was too deep to
ford, so they had to construct a temporary bridge across
it ; and then, after twelve weeks' travelling from the
Macquarrie River, they arrived on the sea shore, in a
harbour at the mouth of the Hastings, named Mac
quarrie Harbour.
Lest any reader should have perused this narrative
of Oxley's journey without paying particular attention
R 2

244 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
to the bearings, or consulting the map, let him not for
a moment imagine that Oxley had reached an unknown
part of the coast. The route had been first nearly north-
north-west, and then due east, so that his track would
form a very obtuse angle. Port Macquarrie, as a port,
was not known, neither had the River Hastings been
previously discovered, but the coast near both had
been laid down by many surveyors; for it was not
very far north of Sydney. The harbour was found,
even in Oxley's cursory examination, to be useless
for any but very small vessels ; but the country
around was really good, and seemed a favourite re
sort for natives, who were extremely peaceable in their
demeanour.
*>' On the 12th, Oxley and his companions set out to
proceed down the coast towards Port Jackson. All
they could now hope to discover would be rivers which
might have escaped the notice of those who surveyed
the coast line from the sea. At first, there did not seem
to be much chance of even this much discovery, for
though they passed many small streams and large
lagoons, still a river, properly speaking, they did not
see. But, on the 19th, they met with one much larger
than they desired, for it was so deep and wide that they
could not hope to ford it, and to go round the head of
such a large stream was a journey which the extent of
their provisions would not allow. A piece of extraordi
nary good luck now came to their assistance. As they
had passed along the sands, they had fallen in with a
stranded boat. It was about fourteen miles behind
them ; but the exertion of bringing it up that distance
seemed the least of the difficulties between which they
were placed. Their condition was very desperate, for
their provisions were low, and the horses so exhausted
that they were dying day by day. With great energy
and perseverance the boat was brought up on the
shoulders of the men. The inlet was crossed. The
rest of their journey, after crossing this river (the
Manning), was occupied with skirmishes with the
natives, who made several treacherous and murderous
attacks upon them. One man was speared and danger-

OXLEY'S SECOND JOURNEY. 245
ously wounded, while Messrs. Evans, Oxley, and Harris
had one or two very narrow escapes.
The provisions at last became so low that Oxley
went on with an advance party to get assistance for his
comrades. After many more difficulties and dangers,
the former reached Newcastle, on the Hunter, on the
5th November; and thus terminated Oxley's second
expedition. The results of this journey, if they did not succeed
in discovering the inland sea, as anticipated, still gave
an important increase to the knowledge of the interior.
The only real advantage seen by the colonists was the
discovery of the Liverpool Plains. And even this much
had a great drawback. They were inaccessible from
the coast, in consequence of the mountainous country
met by Oxley, in what is now termed New England ;
and the distance by the western plains seemed too great
to make them immediately available. A new and short
track to Liverpool Plains became the next problem for
solution in Australian geography. But, for the present,
the colonists were tired of the subject. They had been
rather too eager for the last year or so, and now con
tinued disappointments had brought a consequent reac
tion. Strictly speaking, the discovery of an inland sea
should have been the greatest possible disappointment
to a colonist who wished well to Australia ; but they
did not view it in that light. It was a disappointment ;
and when Oxley (who was sent to survey Macquarrie
Harbour further) reported that the mouth of the
Hastings was a bar harbour, the ardour for exploration
became completely extinguished, and the subject was
dropped.

246

CHAPTER XI.
CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS.
North-west Cape — Exmouth Gulf — Curlew River — Dampier's Archipelago —
Goulburn Islands — Mount Norris and Raffles Bay — Port Essington —
Popham Bay — Visit from the Malays — -Van Diemen's Gulf — Alligator
River — Melville Island — Apsley Strait — Port Hurd — Clarence Strait.
While the people of Sydney were, for the present,
weary of the subject of exploration, the Government of
Great Britain became interested in having the rest of
the Australian coast properly explored and surveyed.
Since the time of Flinders nothing had been done, and
the publication of his voyages, in 1814, probably
aroused the authorities to the importance of completing
the work which he had left unfinished. Though the
French expedition, under Commodore Baudin, had visited
some few parts of the north and north-west coast,
still they had scarcely ever landed, and, as far as the
north part of the coast was concerned, had not often even
seen the mainland. The whole of the north and north
west remained, therefore, to be explored. In the year
1817, there was little besides surveying for the navy
to do, and among the numerous voyages upon which it
was so honourably and usefully employed, the coasts of
Australia were not forgotten.
An expedition for the purpose of completing the
survey of the north and north-west coast was planned,
under the joint direction of the Admiralty and the
Secretary of State for the Colonies, and the command
given to Captain Philip Parker King. He was to pro
ceed to Sydney, and, when, there, the governor of New
South Wales was instructed to give up to his use any
vessel in the colonial marine establishment which should

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 247
be deemed capable of the service, or, in the event of
there being none such, to purchase one.
Captain King was then directed to take up the
survey of the coast from the point where it was aban
doned by Flinders, and explore westward. That is to
say, he was to examine from Arnhem Bay, near the
western entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, west and
south as far as the north-west cape, including the deep
opening called Van Diemen's Bay, and the islands in
the neighbourhood of Dampier's first visit.
The first difficulty experienced by King was in
getting a vessel to suit his purpose. After some delay,
he purchased a small, teak-built cutter, named the
Mermaid, of only eighty-four tons burden. Her advan
tages were, that she was very new, and only drew nine
feet of water. She was soon fitted with every require
ment for an exploring voyage ; and with a crew of
twelve men and two boys, besides Messrs. Bedwell and
Roe,* as mates, and Mr. Allan Cunningham, the
celebrated botanist.
On the 22nd December, 1817, the Mermaid set sail.
Captain King did not intend to proceed at once to
Arnhem Bay. Various considerations induced him to
sail for the north-west coast first, and survey to the east,
instead of from the east coast to the west. On the way
round, he called at Oyster Harbour, King George's
Sound, where he remained ten days, getting wood and
water. There was little change in the place since
Flinders had visited it, but all traces of his garden and
the seeds he sowed had disappeared. The trees cut
down had been burnt or had grown up again, so that
no one could have told that a European had ever visited
the bay before.
From King George's Sound, King was very anxious
to have examined the west coast, but he was prevented
from doing so because of the sickness which spread
suddenly amongst his crew. And thus it was that he
* Mr. Roe may be termed the father of modern explorers. He is still alive,
after having conducted some of the most famous land expeditions into the
western interior. No explorer has ever been out with so many different
parties. He is now surveyor-general in Perth, West Australia, and the author
is under many obligations to him for help during the course of this work.

248 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
could not approach the shore until in lat. 21° 45'.
This was on the 10th of February, 1818. On that day
he saw the south part of North-west Cape — a projection
of the land seen and named by Dampier. The view-
had nothing very encouraging about it._ The coast is
rather elevated, and forms a scene quite in keeping
with the tropical climate of that latitude. Its cliffs
are red, sandy-looking rock,"scantily scattered over with
shrubs. This is the only vegetation about, and it looks
anything but verdant or fertile. The shore is fronted
with rocks, that extend three or four miles .into the sea,
causing the huge rollers which break upon them to
become white with foam/and casting continued columns
of spray into the air. There was a steep slope to the
north, but beyond this the land continued, as far as a
few miles, in what was evidently a low sandy plain.
King steered in between the cape and the low
breakers. No sooner was he under the lee of the land
than he felt the influence of the country which was
before him. The air, which was before pleasant and
refreshing, became so heated as to produce a scorching
sensation, and the thermometer rose to ninety in the
shade. The atmosphere became choked with flies and
dragon-flies, and the sea swarmed with turtles, snakes,
sharks, and dolphins. The scene as described by King,
with its scorching air, its copper-coloured sky, its red
cliffs, and its writhing mass of life beneath the waters,
reminds one of the calm in the poem of the " Ancient
Mariner." Surely this cannot be a very delectable place
to live upon, and seeing how unanimous is the opinion
of all explorers on the subject, we might venture to
hope that there are not many such in the world.
The Mermaid steered slowly round the cape, the
men looking anxiously as she moved round to see what
change took place in the land. But it fell calm when
they were four miles to the eastward, and they could
only trace the low land disappearing in the south-west.
They were obliged to anchor. That night the wind
freshened, and made the cutter ride so uneasily that,
when they went to raise the anchor, the chain was worn
through, and they lost it. And yet it fell calm again

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 249
at noon, and they were scarcely advanced a mile further.
The coast was very low and sandy as far as they could
see it, and the only sign of vegetation was a clump of
mangrove trees, which lay close to the beach. This is
not a pretty tree at any time, but with the temperature
at 90° in the shade, the crew of the Mermaid soon got
tired of contemplating it.
It was evident that the coast formed a deep gulf after
getting out into the projection of North-west Cape,
but the extent of it could not be even guessed at, as the
land was so low. Towards evening, a south-west wind
sprang up, and for fear of losing another anchor, they
kept under easy sail. But as the coast was quite
unknown, the night was passed in great anxiety, and
when day broke they found themselves within a mile of
a reef off the south-west, part of an island, which lay to
the north ofthe cape. Standing to the eastward, three
sandy islets were discovered besides, and these seemed
only the beginning of a crowd of small islands in
advance of them, whose limits could not be seen from
the mast-head. They were rather pretty in appearance,
although they made the horizon appear like a very
dreary coast, seen at its worst when just uncovered by
a very low tide. They were round in shape, and not
more than a quarter of a mile in diameter, and being
low, and crowned with a bright green verdure, there
was an agreeable contrast between their summits, the
dark blue sea, the white glittering belt of sand, and the
red cliffs of the dull monotonous mainland.
Whatever beauties the islands may have possessed,
the whole locality was a most unfortunate one for
King. On the 13th, he broke another anchor, and now
was reduced to a small stream one, which would never
hold the vessel in a gale. He returned to the gulf, how
ever, to prosecute its examination, but the calms delayed
him very much. What with calms and hot weather,
this was a fearful coast. The heat was overpowering
(97° in the shade), and as the vessel was not provided with
an awning, the crew felt it extremely. On the 14th,
they had proceeded twenty-five miles into the opening,
without seeing anything of its termination. By the

250 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
next day, they descried some hills of peaked shape, to
the southward, which looked like the end of the inlet.
There were numerous low islands to the eastward, and
the land behind seemed continuous ; but the coast was
too shallow to ascertain this, and the loss of their anchor
was now very much felt.' Before dark, they discovered
an anchorage upon the west shore, which was so grati
fying to King that he called it the Bay of Rest.
As soon as the vessel was secured, Mr. Bedwell
landed on the eastern shore of the bay. He found it to
be of bold approach, but lined with, coral rocks and
dead shells, among which was a Buccinum of immense
size. The soil was extremely poor ; in fact, it was a
perfect desert of red sand, its best places appearing like
trick dust. It was, of course, almost destitute of vege
tation, with the exception of a few desert-like bushes,
and the usual accompaniment of mangroves. And yet,
barren and desolate as it was, the place was not without
its interest. It was covered with immense ant-hills—
those nests which have been already spoken of as
looking at a distance like huts. Mr. Cunningham, the
botanist, measured one here which was eight feet high,
and nearly twenty-six feet in circumference. It was
deserted by its constructors, and formed, instead, a safe
asylum for insects and reptiles. These nests formed a pic
turesque foreground to a scene which, in wild desolation,
could not be equalled on any other part of the coast,
and, what made it still more characteristic, was the
smoke and lurid glare rising in the distance, for the
back country had been fired by the natives, and was
now in flames.
Mr. Bedwell found a narrow opening at the bottom
of the bay. It communicated with an inner basin of
small extent. There is, however, probably, some other
opening at the end of this gulf. It will be related,
hereafter, how Mr. F. Gregory saw a fine river flowing
in the direction of Exmouth Gulf; and unless the true
opening were forgotten by Mr. Bedwell, there must be
some other besides the one he saw.
From Exmouth Gulf, King directed his course to
the eastward on the 18th. An immense number of islands

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 251
succeeded, amid which the mainland projected as a small
cape, named Cape Locker. Twelve miles east of this
the shore is lined with mangroves, among which a small
opening, like a rivulet, tempted King to an examination
in a small open boat. He had some difficulty in find
ing a channel, but when the boat was within the heads
he found a regular depth of from ten to twelve feet.
For the first two miles the banks were lined with an
impenetrable hedge of mangroves, which bore marks
of being frequently inundated. Beyond this the land
was low and sandy. At high water they- landed to
examine the country. The only elevation they could find
was a low sand hillock ; which, low as it was, showed
the character of the country. It was poor and arid, and
evidently overflowed by the sea at very high tides.
Two or three stunted trees were the only approach to
vegetation, while the soil was composed of red sand,
mud, and clay, of which the first formed by far the
largest portion.
What made this dreary scene doubly oppressive to the
explorers was the heat of the weather. The sun's hot
rays seemed to make this mixture of salt marsh and
desert almost red-hot, so that while King took bearings
he was obliged to break off the mangrove branches and
stand upon them. The inlet was called Curlew River,
from the number of birds of that kind seen upon the
mud flats, but the most abundant inhabitants of this
coast were flies, which had not apparently diminished
in the least since the time of Dampier.
During the absence of the boat, Mr. Bedwell
walked a mile or so inland in the direction of one of the
salt marshes. On his way he passed several ant-hills of
the same description as those seen on the Bay of Rest.
The coast is here protected from the inroads of the sea
by a barrier of sand dunes, from ten to twenty feet
high, on which were growing a great variety of plants.
A species of, convolvulus was very conspicuous among
them, as it stretched along the sand for sometimes
ninety feet, with a stem an inch in diameter. Behind
the dunes the country was flat, in most parts even below
the level of the sea, and probably inundated at times,

252 J DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATIONOF AUSTRALIA.
leaving the thick incrustation . of salt by the evapo
ration of sea water in the hollows. The view was
bounded, about five miles from the beach, by some rocky
hills, which were not high, and appeared destitute of ve
getation. The shores were lined by a barrier of steep
rocks, whose principal shell-fish were a species of oyster,
and a small black, winkle-like univalve, called the
Nerita. No one could call a view over such country
gratifying in any sense. Taking the sand-hills, the
rocks, the steaming salt-plains, and the barren ranges
together, it is perhaps the very worst of the worst part
of this coast.
In the evening, after their return from the river, the
weather was cloudy, but afterwards cleared up, with a
southerly wind. It was a stifling, hot wind. From the
listless sensations it caused, it strongly reminded King
of the hot wind at Port Jackson. This seemed to afford
additional ground for the hypothesis that the interior
of the continent was a sandy desert like that which lay
before them.
Passing now to the eastward, the same low line of
coast and the same thick cluster of islands were dis
covered. The water was, as usual, very shallow ; and
the beach lined with a fringe of mangroves — a plant
which seems to revel in low, unhealthy, marshy salt
lands. Sometimes, the vessel could be brought near
enough to enable King to see over the mangroves from
the mast-head. Large sheets of water were then
observed beyond the bushes, and beyond these salt
water lakes, rocky hills bounded the view. The islands
outside were innumerable, crowding in little dotted
clusters far beyond the horizon ; they were all, however,
little more than mere sandy islets, either barren or
covered with coarse vegetation. The coast was some
times lost to view, as the cutter threaded in and out
of this tangled archipelago. The only projection it
possessed was named Cape Preston. There was no
anchorage near it— at least, none but a very rocky
one, and this could not well be trusted in their desti
tute condition ; so they had to keep under sail all night.
This was easily done, as there was alwavs a land breeze

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 253
blowing off the shore ; but it was an extremely
dangerous course, because of the numerous islands and
reefs. Nights passed thus were full of anxiety to
Captain King.
Next morning, they anchored near a small sandy
isle, in the centre of a bay, upon the shore. This day
was calm and sultry ; but the sky soon became black
and clouded over the land to the south-east, assuming a
very threatening appearance. Heavy, dense clouds
rolled up, amid which vivid forked lightning flashed.
King expected a severe squall, at the least ; but just as
it seemed on the point of breaking, the clouds cleared
away and the sea breeze set in. This seems to'be charac
teristic of the change from land to sea* breezes upon
tropical coasts. Lieutenant Jansen gives an account of
a similar occurrence every day, at Java, which is not
very different in its meteorology from north-west
Australia, at the changes of the monsoons.
The next morning, Captain King landed upon the
island, near which they were anchored, and climbed the
summit of a rocky head before the sun rose. In the
ascent he crossed several deep ravines, which, together
with the hills, were covered with porcupine or spinifex
grass (Triodia viscida), growing among heaps of rocks
which lay scattered in all directions. The greater part
of the surface of the island was covered with these
stones ; so that to reach the top of the hill was a matter
of no small labour and difficulty. But the view repaid
him, for it was very extensive. The coast to the east
ward trended into a bay with low shores, while the
most distant land visible was an island of another archi
pelago, lying before a coast which seemed to be high:
King fancied at first that he was upon the very island
upon which Dampier had landed ; but he soon found
out his mistake. This was certainly the part of the
coast which that navigator had visited. Like King, he
had gazed upon its dismal expanse of low, oozy shores,
red sandstone rocks, and the puzzling labyrinth of
islands ; but his Rosemary Island lay further from the
coast, and was soon after recognised by King.
On the north side of Rocky Head, some small water-

254 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA,
holes were found, and wliile the crew were making use of
them, three natives were observed paddling across to one
of the islands. An effort was made to intercept one of
them, and with much difficulty he was brought on
board. His canoe was found to be no more than a log
of wood upon which he was seated ; and it was his only
riches. When he was placed upon the deck of the cut
ter, a great number of his companions showed themselves
upon the beach, manifesting the most lively demon
strations of grief at the loss of their companion. He
appeared as much grieved as they. Every effort
to amuse and please him only increased his expression
of terrified anxiety. He ate some sugar with relish,
but called loudly to his companions from time to time.
King fastened some presents round his neck and put
him ashore. At first, his tribe pointed their spears at
him, and refused to allow him to approach until he had
answered their numerous interrogatories ; they then sat
round and listened to his story. The manner in which
these savages appeared when their companion was
taken, showed how they watched every movement of
the explorers ; and that, though none were visible upon
the coast hitherto, there may have been, for all that,
plenty about. They seemed a quiet, inoffensive people,
less disposed to fight than their forefathers, one hundred
and twenty years previously. Many other opportunities
of communicating with them occurred, and this in
duced King to call this archipelago Intercourse Islands.
Only one of the isles seemed to possess water in any
quantity, and this was thickly inhabited. The natives
would not allow them to land there, and though they
did nothing but threaten with spears and stones, King
was not desirous of destroying their friendly feeling
so he did not press the point.
Until March the 4th, was occupied in the tedious
work of mapping these islands and indicating the shoals
and reefs around them. It is not necessary to reprint
the vocabulary of names with which King adorned the
most of them, which would comprise a list of his friends
and acquaintances, and everybody that he delighted to
honour. What concerns us to know is, that all the

CAPTATN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 255
islands were painfully alike in every respect ; but most
of all in the aridity of their desolate rocky surfaces. On
the day just named, they anchored in Nickol Bay,
called so at Mr. Roe's request. This was a good safe
roadstead, and the land at the back seemed better. Far
inland, some hills could be seen to the eastward; but
the coast itself was so low, that at four miles it could
not be seen from the deck. It was covered, as usual,
with the everlasting mangroves ; and yet it was not
altogether without beauty. Although the sea water
was shallow so as only to show the palest hue of green
over the white silvery sand or the red mud, yet, as
it plashed to and fro, it revealed beauties of marine
life which made up for the want of symmetry elsewhere.
There were the many-coloured corals, with all their
grotesque varieties of delicate form : there were the sea
weeds waving to and fro in the tide, and reflecting
matchless hues of scarlet and green ; and there were the
fishes and the sea-slugs unrivalled in colours and
shapes, abounding ; while, deeper down, the bottom
could be seen covered with the pearl oyster.
Nickol Bay has become since famous as the base line
of the discoveries of F. Gregory, in 1861. This lone,
desolate looking coast fronted an interior country of
great richness and fertility. It is as well to bear this in
mind. Probably, many parts of the shore which have
as unfavourable an exterior as this, may conceal an in
terior as fertile. Captain King little suspected that he
was sailing past as rich a tract as Chichester Downs.
While anchored at Nickol Bay, the Mermaid experienced
another squall : this time, the sand was blown over them
from the shore, although it was more than two miles away.
From Nickol Bay, King proceeded to survey certain
reefs out in the open sea, which had been seen by
vessels sailing between Java and the north-west coast.
When this was finished, he sailed for Cape Arnhem ;
where, it will be remembered, Flinders' survey had
formerly terminated. The season was favourable now
for surveying westward from Carpentaria ; and, to say
the truth, King was heartily tired of the monotonous
and arid character of the north-west coast.

256 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
But he did not commence quite so far to the east as
Cape Arnhem. The first land he made was South
west Bay, a rocky indentation of the coast, between
Points Guion and Turner, in the 134th meridian of east
longitude : there he landed. It was now about the ter
mination of the rainy season, and the vegetation was
most luxuriant : the grass was six feet high, completely
concealing the men from each other as they walked to
the summit of a very thickly wooded hill. Above the
grass, the Pandanus palm, the Hibiscus, and the Austra
lian fig lifted their graceful heads ; while the smaller
trees were a dwarf Eucalyptus, intermingled with tropi
cal plants and the long-stemmed convolvulus in full
flower. The drooping Casuarina and the scarlet Grevilla
were also found here ; but the only fruit was a small
black grape of inferior quality. And yet, for all this
fertility, the soil was not exactly good. The centre of
the bay forms a sandy beach terminated by curious cliffs
about forty feet high ; the upper part pf red ferruginous
clay, and the lower, of the whitest pipeclay, with
a clear line of demarkation between them, which formed
a very remarkable contrast. Ten miles inland was a
rocky range, named the Wellington Range, about
twenty-five miles in extent, with an irregular and
rugged outline.
While making his survey, several signs of the visits of
Malay fishermen were brought to King. They were
principally old broken joints of bamboo and pieces of
rope ; but were evidently quite recent, so that the Malays
themselves could not be far distant. King was rather
uneasy about this : he had no means of defending him
self, and the Malays might choose to be troublesome if
he met them. He therefore ordered a careful watch to be
kept. He had however more to fear from the natives
than the Malays. In spite of precautions, the savages
of this coast managed to steal all the tools of the wood
ing party, and when one of their canoes was taken by
way of reprisal, they nearly succeeded in carrying off
the whale-boat as indemnity. They seldom came close
enough to be hostile ; but they could be seen from the
ship, either sneaking amid the tall grass, or crawling

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 257
on the ground behind the explorers, watching every
turn, and never losing an opportunity of making off
with property within their reach. Once, indeed, they
made an attack upon a boat party by showering down
stones from the cliff upon the men, and though a shot
or two scared them, they were not very much frightened,
owing to their intercourse with the Malays. Their
dwellings were of sticks, supporting a roof of bark, and
covered over with sand.
In leaving South- West Bay, Sim's Island, situate in
front, was twice visited. It was a fertile sandstone
island, well covered with tall grass. The latter was an
obstacle to the explorers, because it was so high and
thick ; and as an alligator fifteen feet long had been
seen swimming round the ship, the men were not at all
anxious to penetrate the jungle. After leaving the
bay, they anchored in an opening on the west side of
North Island, of the Goulburn group, and commenced
on the 6th cutting wood from a group of Casuarinas
which grew close to the beach. The natives were
very troublesome all the time, and the utmost precau
tion was necessary to avoid bloodshed. The bay was
called Mullet Bay, in consequence of the abundance of
a species of that fish. The trepang was also found in
numbers about the rocks, and this explained why it
was so much resorted to by the Malays.
On the 8th, they left Mullet Bay. The Goulburn
group was formed, principally, by a northern and
southern island, divided by an open channel ; but the
Mermaid could not sail between, owing to the strength
of the current. In returning to South- West Bay, the
crew were surprised by the sight of a Malay fleet
steering through the strait. King was alarmed, and
determined to proceed at once to the westward. Before
he had time to do so, the fleet anchored off Sim's Island,
and their crews were busily engaged in pushing to
and from the shore, apparently getting water. As
King passed, he hoisted the British ensign, which was
replied to by a Dutch one ; the chief's vessel displayed
a blue flag in addition. Some chiefs upon the rocks,
who appeared to take no part in the labours of the
VOL. I. s

258 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
others, made signals to King to anchor, but the latter
was too defenceless to risk a conference, so he
sailed on.
The evening was too far advanced to make any
particular examination of the coast ; but after passing
Sim's Island, the coast was sufficiently near to per
ceive the general outline as far as Point Brogden, off
which they were at sunset. The land now abutted on
the shore in high cliffs crowned with thick wood.
There was no longer the same monotony, nor the
appearance of sterility ; each bend of the coast showed
not only a new aspect, but features of interest, and,
what was better, luxuriant vegetation. The cliff con
tinued up to Cape Cockburn, and then the land trended
deeply in to the south-west. There was a bay on the
western side of Cape Cockburn, which King was
determined to examine ; but just as he was hauling into
it, the Malay fleet was seen standing towards them.
Not liking to enter until they had passed, King made a
tack off shore, but, to his great mortification, no sooner
had they reached the Cape than they sailed into the bay
and anchored.
As the land to the westward formed a deep bay,
the Mermaid was steered on to examine it, whilst the
anchorage was called Malay Bay. Passing through a
strait, separating Annesley from Valentia Island, the
vessel entered Mountnorris Bay. The coast was a
succession of sandy beaches, interrupted by rocky
headlands, while Valentia Island, though thickly
wooded, was as monotonous as the mainland.
Next day, the Malays were observed making a
move, and as each vessel got under weigh, it steered
towards them. The anchor was raised, and the Mer
maid made as ready for a fight as she could be. The
number of the proas was now increased to twenty, and
they had hoisted out six large canoes. King's alarm
may be imagined; but there was nothing to fear.
There was no appearance of any hostile intention as
they approached ; some of them steered across the bay,
and only a few approached the cutter. One of the
canoes came near, with the intention of visiting, but

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 259
King pointed to his carronade and motioned them off.
They returned disappointed, but not displeased, and the
cutter was left at liberty to examine the bay. Nothing
worthy of note was found in it. Its shores were low,
and its beaches rocky and so uninteresting that they
returned at once to Mountnorris Bay.
Next day, he landed on Copeland Island, lying off
the entrance of the bay. It was surrounded by a coral
bank, and its north side formed by a perpendicular
argillaceous cliff of a bright yellow colour. Behind
the cliff the land gradually declined, running off to a
low point. The island was covered with trees, amid
which a beautiful acacia in full bloom was a very
pleasing object. Another island, like it in nearly all
respects, was found to the westward. This was Darch's
Island. Both had very poor soil, but well grassed, and
supporting a good many Areca and Pandanus palm trees,
some of the former being forty feet high. The rocks
were of the usual red sandstone, which gave the cliffs a
very lurid appearance, and there were many traces of
natives upon them.
Beyond these islands, another inlet trended in deeply,
for the outline of the land was extremely uneven. In
fact, they were now upon the commencement of the
Coburg Peninsula, which is only united to the main by
a strip of land, which divides Mountnorris Bay from
Van Diemen's Gulf. The present inlet was named
Raffles Bay. The shores were low, and so overrun
with mangroves that landing in most parts was
impracticable. A small break near a cliff enabled
them to examine the country. Here two streams of
fresh water were found ; one of which ran over the
beach with some force, but it appeared only temporary.
The soil was very good ; but the trees and underwood
so thick that they could not get very far from the
boat. King left Raffles Bay on the 19th of April, and
ran along the western shore to the north-west. He
was now approaching a portion of the coast which has
since been much better known, and is not connected
in the minds of very old colonists with very
s 2

260 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
pleasant associations. This was Port Essington.
Amid its sinuosities there was much good land, and
much picturesque scenery, in comparison with what
King had previously seen ; but he, probably, overrated
its real value, and when settlers came to live there it
was not found to be a paradise.
The next point to the westward from Raffles Bay
was Point Smith, and at the distance of a mile from it
is a ledge of rocks on which the sea constantly breaks.
At the bottom of an inlet near was some land higher
than usual, and upon it two flat-topped hills. The
eastern shore of the port was formed by a succession of
rocky points, between which were ranges of red cliffs,
much higher and more thickly wooded than any yet
seen. They anchored the vessel under the cliffs near
enough to get into the shade of the gloomy-wooded
heights, and all night long the howlings of the native
dogs could be distinctly heard. The next morning
they landed at the mouth of a small salt-water inlet
which wound in among the mangroves. There was a
hill near, which King climbed. He could see the
bottom of the bay which closed in to a narrow opening
and then widened out to a spacious inner harbour.
The scenery was not grand, but certainly interesting
from its darkness and mystery — the still placid cha
racter of the water, the red cliffs jutting in and out,
either upon deep water or green flats of mangroves,
and the country behind thickly, nay, almost impene
trably clothed with timber. The ravines and gullies were
nearly beyond number, either enclosing still salt-water
fiords, or undulating with forest land, in which the
Acacia, Pandanus, fern, and Areca palm were the prin
cipal vegetable ornament. The soil was chiefly of a
grey sandy earth, rich in some parts, but these few and
far between.The Mermaid was steered into the narrow opening.
A spacious sheet of water was found within, divided
into two bays by a projecting cliffy point named Middle
Head. The shores were thickly wooded, and separated
from the water by mud flats, which at low water were
very extensive. King remained at anchor three days

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 261
in this port, and the shores received a close exami
nation from him. On the western entrance a wrecked
canoe was found, and near it a spear, altogether
different from any yet seen. It was headed with a
sharp-pointed splinter of quartz, about four inches long,
and an inch and a half broad. The shaft was of the
mangrove tree, nearly eight feet long. The stone was
fastened on with plaited grass, covered by a mass of
gum. At the bottom of the western basin was the
skeleton of a human body, but it Avas not ascertained
Avhether it was the body of a native or not. The only
thing which makes the discovery curious is the fact,
that the natives are very careful to bury or burn their
dead, and this must have been left exposed^ for some
other reason. The traces of natives were found every
where, but they did not show themselves. Some trees
appeared to have been cut with iron instruments, but
these might have been obtained from the Malays.
Upon leaving the inner harbour, they anchored in
Knocker's Bay, on the west side of the port, and in the
afternoon set off to examine an opening in the man
groves at the bottom of it. After pulling all through
its various windings for about a mile, where it was
scarcely broad enough for the boat to pass, its further
investigation was given up, and the boat's crew com
menced to return. But the mangroves were so thick,
and formed so impervious a network, that they had
great difficulty in effecting it. When about half-way
towards the mouth, they found the boat impeded by the
roots of a mangrove bush, and whilst the men were
clearing the rudder, they were suddenly startled by a
loud yell from a bush not ten yards from them. No
sooner had the yell been uttered, than a large number
of natives leaped into the water. They were armed
with spears and clubs, and advanced, shaking their
weapons, making hideous grimaces, and yelling like
demons. The position of the boat was rather alarming,
for it was completely entangled, and the river was too
narrow to permit the oars being used. Two muskets,
loaded Avith ball and a charge of small shot, were fired
over the blacks' heads. The savages required nothing

262 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
more. They turned precipitately, and fled into the
bushes so quickly that the place at once was as silent
and still as it had been before. But they were not
completely done with the natives. As they proceeded
down the rivulet, their black forms were observed
through the bushes hastening towards a low part of
the stream which the boat was obliged to pass before
it could reach the bay. The sailors were prepared this
time. In due time a volley of stones and spears from
the bushes assailed the boat, which was answered by a
volley of musketry. After that no more of the natives
was seen.
Early on the 25th April, the Mermaid sailed out of
Port Essington ; and passing round its western head,
named after Admiral Vashon, hauled into a bay. Here
there was a large Malay encampment, and several proas
at anchor. The bay, in any case, did not offer any
inducement for an examination, and King was still very
much frightened of the Malays, so he passed on to the
next bay. This was about four miles deep and two
broad. The coast appeared to take a decided turn to
the southward, and as some land was observed on the
western horizon, it was concluded that the ship was in
the entrance of the great bay of Van Diemen, which
King was especially instructed to examine. Two flat-
topped hills, already spoken of, formed conspicuous
objects inland, and King named them Mounts Bedwell
and Roe, after his two officers. They have since become
familiar objects in connection with the settlement as
Port Essington.
Another division of the Malay encampment was here
noticed ; but as there were only four proas, King com
municated with them. They seemed peaceable people,
who were very much surprised at everything they saw ;
but no information* was obtained from them. Some
days more were occupied in surveying the shores of the
deep Gulf of Van Diemen. It was soon discovered, as
before observed, that Mountnorris Bay was only sepa
rated from the gulf by a narrow strip of land, and that
Port Essington was upon a peninsula. The whole of
the land about here was highly spoken of by King. It

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 263
was very thickly clothed with timber, which, though
small, showed by its luxuriance a very rich soil. There
appeared, also, to be abundant supplies of water,
though King was not able to see much, for the thick
vegetation rendered it impossible to go very far in
land. The gulf had been partly explored by the
Dutch, who had entered it, but did not go to its
end. It was very shallow, and occupied by numerous
small islands, to which various names were given by
King. In steering towards the bottom of the gulf, a con
siderable opening was found, which promised to lead
some distance into the interior. It was the evening of
the 5th May that it was reached, and, as the greater
part of the tide was expended, they anchored the cutter
at the entrance. This was like all Australian rivers,
fronted by a bar, upon which there was only twelve
feet of water. The depth increased as they entered to
thirty feet, and, as they proceeded, reached as much as
fifty feet. The banks on either side of the river were
very low, and composed of soft mud. In fact, this was
a mere delta, so thickly clothed with mangroves that
any attempt to land for the first eight or ten miles was
quite useless.
All these facts were ascertained by the boats, which
were despatched on the 6th to examine the stream.
Where they landed the banks were about two hundred
yards apart, but very low. There was not a hillock to
ascend nor a tree to climb, so that the character of the
interior could only be guessed ; but a guess made where
the eye stretched over a boundless plain clothed with
rushy grass could not be far wrong. A small conical
hill peeped up here and there like a misty cloud in the
distance, but all the rest was dreary, low, and flat.
The mangrove bushes were quite a relief. These were
crowded with egrets' nests, besides hawks, pelicans,
ducks, and pigeons. Clouds of cockatoos disturbed the
echoes of the salt-water river with their hideous screech-
ings, but, for all these signs of life, there was a lurid
air of scorching aridity about the whole scene, which
the columns of smoke from distant native fires tended

264 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
much to increase. The boats returned without having
seen the end of the opening.
The next morning the cutter was under weigh, and
coasting westward towards a low but extensive island.
As they approached, they found that it fronted a very
considerable opening in the land, extending into the
interior, under the eastern base of a mountain, named
Mount Hooper. They passed easily between the island
and the mainland, and entered an opening similar in
appearance to that examined the day before, but so
much more considerable that they had great hopes of
its proving a very important stream. It should be
mentioned that there were other islands off this entrance,
the principal of which were called Barrow and Field
Islands. As the cutter approached the opening, the depth
shoaled so gradually that she was able to run up six
miles. She was anchored about noon, and some of the
crew attempted to land upon the eastern bank. This
was not an easy task, because the shores were very
muddy. Nothing was done, except merely to land ;
they were too fatigued to examine the country. They
returned to the vessel, and brought her, at high water,
to the end of the first reach. Preparations were then
made for a boat excursion to explore this fine river.
At daybreak next morning Captain King set out.
The stream had been examined now for thirty-six miles,
and hitherto it had differed from the other only in being
of larger size. From the anchorage the channel deep
ened from eight to five fathoms, and this depth con
tinued pretty evenly for about nine miles ; it then
began to decrease, and, at the furthest part reached, was
only fifteen feet at high water. The banks were thickly
clothed with mangroves, as usual ; they were of soft
mud, and scarcely three feet high. The country on all
sides was low and level ; but still the view was some-
Avhat varied. Little wooded hills were visible at inter
vals, and here and there a cluster of palm trees made
the open plain less monotonous ; but the land lay under
the disadvantage of having been recently burnt, and its
bare surface, with blackened ashes, did not look very

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 265
agreeable in such a climate and under such a sun.
The whole country seemed liable at times to inundation
from the river, and what was not burned was covered
with a thick and matted broom grass. The explorers
saw very few birds, and these principally cockatoos.
But the abundance of alligators in both rivers was a
matter of anything but agreeable surprise : hence the
name of the Alligator Rivers, East and South, was be
stowed upon them. The water in the South Alligator
River was fresh in its upper part.
Field Island, at the entrance, was low and thickly
wooded. To the westward was another opening, which
was not examined. The land upon the shore was very
low and scarcely distinct, but it appeared to be sandy.
On the 12th May, they passed a considerable opening,
or, as it was thought to be, a bight, for many patches of
land were observed upon the horizon. The wind was
too fresh from the eastward to enable King to run into
it, so he steered for some land to the northward. This
was an island. As a matter of course, it was called
Melville Island — making about the sixth or seventh
island of that name, by which our maps are confused.
At midnight, the cutter, drifted by the tide, passed
close to the easternmost part of the island. It appeared,
as they passed along its coast, to be a picturesque and
fertile piece of land. The lower country was green
and luxuriant, and the hills were thickly wooded.
Many natives were seen about, which was another sign
of the richness and fertility of the soil. Far out of
the bays, the cliffs were half red and half white, like
those at Goulburn Islands, and, in many respects, the
formations appeared the same. On the 17th, they
passed round Cape Van Diemen, and in the evening
anchored off a table-shaped hill, that formed the
south end of a sandy bay. It- was dark when they
anchored, and the next morning they found they were
in the mouth of a very considerable river-like opening,
which made them think that they had made a very
important discovery at last. As yet, be it remembered,
they did not know that Melville Island was separated
from the mainland. This inlet was the strait ; but no

266 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
suspicion of the fact crossed King's mind. The inlet
was, therefore, considered the mouth of a river, and the
indentation was called St. Asaph's Bay. The table-
shaped hill near the anchorage was named Luxmore
Head. King landed, and ascended its summit, but this
was so thickly wooded that he could see nothing of the
country around. There were small openings in the
trees, through which a few distant objects could be dis
tinguished. It was thought that the bearings of these
could be taken ; and just as the theodolite-stand was
fixed, and the party were amusing themselves rambling
about, the natives showed in force unpleasantly near.
So sudden was their appearance, and so formidable did
they seem in their array of spears, white paint, and
shaking boomerangs, that the boat's crew were rather
panic-stricken ; and before they had time to deliberate,
found themselves hurrying down to the boat as fast as
their legs could carry them. It was a regular sauve qui
pent, and in the hurry the theodolite-stand and some
other articles were left behind. These were seized by
the savages as lawful prize. . The stand may have
puzzled them, and its ultimate utility to any but the
owner may have been questioned ; but it was carried
off in triumph. Captain King tried the effect of a
parley, but it had no effect. The natives seemed to
know their advantage, and the proverb, melior est con
ditio possidentis. They were willing to treat on any
other basis, and magnanimously exchanged a dead bird
for a silk handkerchief ; but they made a stand when
the stolen property was required. They repeatedly
asked for axes, by imitating the action of chopping, but
in other respects their demonstrations were rather
hostile. Whenever the party tried to land again, they
shouted and howled, and mustered in great force to
oppose them. A great deal of time was lost in trying
to get the stand back ; axes and chisels were freely
given, but at first they did not understand, and only
gave baskets and the fruit of the sago palm in exchange.
When they were made to comprehend what was wanted,
they took up the article in request and examined it
carefully. A consultation was held ; and after dis-

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 267
cussing the merits of its brass screws and mountings,
they deliberately refused to return it, and retreated to
the woods.
The opening through which they now sailed de
lighted the explorers with its beauty. The sides were
steep and inaccessible, even to the water's edge, and
wheneATer a clear space among the mangroves was seen,
the sago palm and the pandanus mingled their leafy
ornaments with the tropical flora. On the 19th, the
opening had become so contracted that the boat was
hoisted out. After proceeding two miles further, the
channel took a more easterly course. Speculations ran
high as to its continuance. The probability of its being
a large river appeared to their sanguine minds so cer
tain that they never doubted it to be otherwise, when
suddenly the open sea appeared. The strait was im
passable at its lower part in consequence of the shoals,
so that after seeing the ocean, and enjoying the luxury
of such a disappointment, they had to retrace their
course back to St. Asaph's Bay. The strait was named
Apsley, and the land cut off by it Bathurst Island.
The day following, they coasted along the north
west side of Bathurst Island, and the day but one after
that, anchored off another opening at the bottom of an
extensive bay. It happened to be high water when they
anchored ; and so shallow was this coast, that though
they were three miles from the shore, the ebb tide
reduced the depth as much as to make them apprehend
that the cutter would be left dry. The depth, finally,
was only eighteen inches over the cutter's draught.
The opening was found between two low sandy
points. It trended in to the south-east, and towards a
flat-topped hill in the distance. In sounding the space
between the anchorage and the shore, it was found that
they were on the outer edge of a bar, within which the
water was deep enough. The cutter was, therefore,
worked up towards the opening. She passed the bar
easily, and an anchorage was taken up in the evening
within the entrance. They could only take the ship a
mile further, and then the examination was conducted
in a boat.

268 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
It was found to run on, gradually narrowing and
decreasing in depth, for eight miles, and to terminate
in two salt-water creeks. The banks had the usual
impenetrable mangrove lining, amid which several
creeks ran, connecting the low interior with the stream.
The boat's crew returned to the cutter at night, and
next day shifted the berth to an anchorage close to the
shore, on the north side, for the purpose of wooding.
So close to the water's edge did the timber grow, that
a supply was easily obtained. While they were loading
the boat, they were jealously watched by the natives,
who appeared planning some surprise amid the bushes,
where they lay, as they thought, concealed. A little
before dark they were observed to creep out ; but a
musket fired over their heads made them desist from
their intentions, whatever they were.
Next day, as the cutter sailed by a point, the
savages rushed suddenly out into the shallow sea,
within thirty yards of it, and made the explorers signs
as if pressing them to return and land. They seemed
anxious to get axes and chisels, and were dreadfully
disappointed on seeing that no attention was paid to
their signs. Port Hurd and Gordon Bay were the
names given to those harbours. From Gordon Bay
the coast trends to the southward, forming cliffs of
dark-red sandstone. Small islands lay off them, but
in other respects these shores presented little of in
terest. The time had now arrived for leaving the coast, and
giving up any further explorations on this voyage.
Not only was the favourable season drawing to a close,
but the provisions had nearly run out, and the water
had almost completely failed. This latter was a mis
fortune not calculated upon. Several of the casks had
leaked, and it Avas absolutely necessary to replenish
them at Timor, before even the return voyage could be
ventured upon. King accordingly left the coast; he
obtained water at. Timor, and then returned to that
portion of the coast laid down by Baudin, to the south
ward of the Montebello Islands. It proved to be an
island, as the great part of that navigator's mainland

CAPTAIN KING'S EXPLORATIONS. 269
turned out to be. This was the last discovery made by
King on the first voyage. He now sailed direct for
Port Jackson, where, with some trifling delays from
calms, he arrived on the 28th July, 1818.
The proceedings of the survey were encouraging,
but as yet bore but a small proportion to what was still
to be discovered. Two important questions had been
set at rest ; and these were the openings behind Rose
mary Island, and the nature of Van Diemen's Gulf.
The loss of the anchors prevented a complete examina
tion of Exmouth Gulf, and landing upon Depuch
Island, of which M. Peron had given such favourable
accounts. On the north coast they had found several
rivers, one of which was ascended for forty miles.
Besides this, many deep bays and excellent ports had
been discovered, in addition to the knowledge obtained
of North Australia, with regard to its agricultural or
pastoral character. "Its thickly wooded shores," says
King, " bore a striking contrast to the sandy desert-
looking tract we had previously seen, and inspired us
with the hope of finding at some future time a still
greater improvement of country between the two
extremes."

270

CHAPTER XII.
KING'S SECOND VOYAGE.
Macquarrie Harbour and Port Macquarrie — Endeavour River — Across Carpen
taria — Wessel's Islands — Castlereagh Bay — Liverpool River — Paterson
Bay — Point Pearce — Cambridge Gulf — Cape Londonderry — Vansittart
Bay — Cape Voltaire — Admiralty Gulf.
When King returned, he was employed in surveying
the recently discovered Macquarrie Harbour in Tas
mania, and then subsequently he mapped Port Mac
quarrie and the river Hastings, which had been
discovered, as it will be remembered, by Lieutenant
Oxley, on his second journey. It was not until May,
1819, that the Mermaid was able to sail again for the
north coast ; and this time it was intended to accom
plish much more, by taking provisions for a longer
voyage. The course was not round the west coast, as
in the commencement of the last expedition. King
determined, on the contrary, to proceed at once to the
part last surveyed by Flinders. He would thus sail by
the east coast, through Torres Straits, and across Car
pentaria to the English Company's Islands.
On the way to Torres Straits, he entered a pre
viously unknown inlet, near Port Curtis ; this was
Rodd's Bay ; and on the 14th June he landed near
Cape Cleveland to procure wood and water. The coast
land here is low, and occupied by a large body of
water, beyond which stretched a range of flat-topped
hills, rocky and precipitous — so much so, indeed, as to
be apparently inaccessible.
The land seen after this was simply the same as that
described by Cook. Nothing new was discovered,
except one or tvro small islands. On the 27th, they
anchored their vessel on the very spot where Captain
Cook had repaired his, forty-nine years previously.

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 271
While some arrangements were being made, King went
with a party to explore the stream. He found it to be
generally very shallow, yet containing fresh water at
about nine or ten miles from the mouth. But it was
not fit, in any sense, for navigation ; for at the place
where the party turned back it was only six yards wide.
On their return they examined another, on the north
side, which proved inconsiderable. The country
around was granitic ; and from the abrupt and primi
tive appearance of Cape Tribulation, and the hills to
the north, they were evidently of the same formation —
at least, such was King's opinion ; but as the only
surface stone seen about was a quartzose sandstone, the
rocks of the range did not differ from the rest of it
further south.
Towards the end of July, King passed through
Torres Straits. By a singular fatality, he lost two of
his anchors in trying to stop at various places ; and he
was now preparing for the second portion of his ex
ploration in the same destitute condition in which he
began the first. He had been eleven weeks absent
from Port Jackson, and the weather had been very wet
and disagreeable since leaving Cape Grafton, which had
not only increased the danger of navigation, but also
considerably retarded his progress. The same cause had
also entailed a considerable amount of sickness ; and
this prevented any observations of importance until
Wessel's Islands were reached on the 27th. This was
Flinders's furthest point, and therefore the exploration
of King commenced here. The temperature had now
become warm and genial, which soon restored all the
invalids, and they entered upon their investigations
with renewed vigour and enthusiasm.
The eastern side of Wessel's Island presents a level
aspect ; only a few shrubby trees appear at intervals
to break the uniformity of its gently undulating surface.
The point which is named Cape Wessel is the extremity
of the northernmost island. Six natives were observed
sitting upon the cliffs overhanging the cape, and two
more walking on the beach ; but they took no notice of
the ship. The islands are not wide ; for as the Mer
maid sailed down the western side, the opposite cliffs

272 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
could be seen sometimes not more than half a mile
distant. A few days were passed in examining these
islands and others near them, besides Castlereagh Bay
and the Crocodile Islands, marked in the old Dutch
charts. This occupied until the 4th August. It was a
time of very deep anxiety to King. With only one
anchor, he was obliged to be most careful in seeking a
harbour ; and even then, if the shelter was not good, he
had to weigh in the middle of the night, and trust to
chance breezes or currents to carry him past the shoals
and reefs which surrounded him.
On the date just named, the course was held towards
a point of land which proved to be the eastern head of
a deep opening. The remainder of the day was spent
in making preparations for the examination of the river.
On the following morning, he commenced its explora
tion in a boat. The banks on either side were even
more thickly lined with mangroves than any yet seen,
and this for a much greater distance, for they had
rowed twelve miles before they were able to land. The
sides at this distance were occasionally pretty clear of
timber, and the back country could be seen. It wore
anything but]an encouraging aspect. As they advanced,
some natives were perceived ; and where the boat
party stopped to dinner, the discharge of a gun brought
about thirty natives round them, who commenced
yelling, and shouting, and threatening hostilities with
their spears. King ordered his party to embark ; but
the natives followed some distance along the banks,
with angry cries and violent gesticulations ; then they
disappeared amid the long grass.
At sunset, King found he was rid of his troublesome
neighbours ; and having reached a favourable spot,
where no alligators were visible, he pitched his tent.
His party had no sooner composed themselves to rest
than they were disturbed by loud shouts, which sent
every man to his weapons. The shouts continued, and
their terrors increased ; and when about half the night
had been spent in terrible anxiety, they made the
discovery that the sounds were not made by natives,
but birds, whose harsh cries were somewhat magnified
by the fears of the listeners. One would think that

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 273
they could sleep tranquilly after this ; but not a bit.
When the birds left off, the mosquitoes began, and it
was found quite impossible to escape these tormentors
without lying so close to the fire that sleep was out of
the question. Exhausted and out of spirits, it is no
wonder that they only went five miles up the river
next day. At this place the channel was scarcely twenty
yards wide, and nearly dry at low water.
This river was named the Liverpool. It runs up
about forty miles in a very serpentine way from a well-
formed port. Its entrance is four miles wide, and at ten
miles inland half a mile, but the water is not fresh ex
cept at about fourteen miles from the mouth. Fish were
plentiful, as well as the birds which were noticed at
Alligator River. In one respect they agreed wonder
fully with that stream. It swarmed with alligators ;
and King says, if he had known the dangers of his en
campment, the torment of the mosquitoes would have
seemed as nothing in comparison with the presence of
such animals.
On the 7th, they left the river and proceeded to the
westward, round Point Hawkesbury. The land falls
back, first in a south-east, and then in a north-west
direction, until it becomes lost to view behind a point
which looked like an island, but which was discovered
to be the place where the second part of the last voyage
commenced. The bay thus formed was called Junc
tion Bay. It was not examined, and did not seem
likely to be of much interest : so King proceeded on to
South- West Bay to get a fresh supply of water from
the well dug the year before. While the casks were
being filled under the cliffs, the natives suddenly ap
peared, and showered down stones upon the men. One
discharge of musketry terminated an engagement in
which neither side was hurt, and the savages were not
seen afterwards.
From South- West Bay, King sailed to Vernon's
Islands, to take up the survey where it was left the year
previously. On the 28th August, the islands were in
sight. The delay in coming so short a distance was
owing to light and baffling winds, but they had been
vol. I. T

274 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
useful in one respect, as they had enabled King to
correct many portions of his former charts.
The land near Vernon's Islands is low, but still ter
minating on the coast in slightly elevated cliffs. These
are of a dark red colour. On their summits the deep
green foliage stretches back into the interior, like a
baize cloth, too thick and impenetrable to afford any view
of the nature of the soil. The timber was not large,
but it was abundant. Altogether, the aspect of the land
was verdant and picturesque, solitary as usual, and
looking anything but easy to explore. An opening
was observed in the cliffs, but King did not examine it.
At the bottom of it there was a flat-topped hill, as
indeed all the hills about this part of the sandstone
tableland may be considered, though some of them may
have weathered more quickly into peaks. The western
side of the inlet looked like an island, but it formed
the head of another inlet, called Paterson Bay. The
western part of this bay became low and rocky, and then
the beach seemed arid and sandy again. It was so low
as to be almost invisible from the deck of the cutter ;
and was so arid that, were it riot for a few bushes or
mangrove trees scattered about the beach, it might have
been called a desert. And yet a desert it was not, for
natives were seen. Like all their brethren, they gazed
in listless apathy upon the ship, while the smoke of
signal fires conveyed the intelligence of the visit of
strangers to the tribes around.
The shore soon became cliffy and thickly wooded
again. Like all the north coast, there were very many
islands lying off it, which had been almost all mistaken
for the mainland by Captain Baudin. Between Capes
Ford and Dombey, the coast was found to be higher
than usual ; and Avas thickly wooded to the verge of
the cliffs, which were still of the same dark red colour.
Before them there was always a line of sandy beach.
This panorama of cliffs, and trees, and beach, did not
vary much, and, therefore, no knoAvledge of the interior
could be obtained. Of course, a great deal was done in
surveying islands, correcting charts, and altering the
position of shoals and reefs upon the maps, but with

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 275
these details the reader need not be troubled. They
only landed once. This was at Port Keats, into which
Mr. Roe took the boat on the 7th September. The
shores were found to be overrun with mangroves, and
the back lands were evidently at times inundated with
water. The bottom of the port divided into two salt
water arms, extending towards the foot of a range of
thickly wooded hills, which were seen from the anchor
age over the low mangrove shore.
The boat party had found only one landing place,
and they walked a mile inland from it. The country was
low and sterile. The only soil was a tenacious clay,
with small ironstone gravel thickly mixed, with here
and there a stunted Eucalyptus about six feet high ; only
adding to the desolation by its dwarfed and withered
appearance. On the 10th, Point Pearce was passed, and beyond it
the shore trended in so as to form a very deep indenture.
No land at all was visible at the bottom to the southward.
King was rather anxious to examine this opening. He
concluded very justly that it would be found to contain
an important river, but it was not permitted to him
to explore it. After putting backwards and forwards
until the 12th, amid baffling winds and fogs, he could
not risk entering with only one anchor, so he sailed
away to continue his survey to the westward. Thus
was the discovery of the Victoria River left to Stokes
and Wickham.
On the 13th, the Mermaid was anchored under
Lacrosse Island. This was named by Baudin. It was
one of the usual sandstone islets, with cliffs of the dark
red rock, and immense numbers of boulders of the same,
scattered all about the surface. King landed upon it
to search for water. He examined several gullies worn
down by surface drainage, but could find not a trace of
the former streams. He then ascended the hill, but the
same arid appearance seemed to pervade the view upon
every side. The heat all this time was overpowering.
It was painful even to walk rapidly along the rocks
which Avere exposed to the glare of the sunlight, so that
all the water must have been dried up long ago. And
T 2

276 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
yet natives lived upon the island, and what was more
singular, they walked about naked, and placed their
bare feet upon rocks which seemed scorching to the
white man's touch.
The gulf of Victoria River is divided into two halves,
and King determined to examine the western arm which
lay before him. He entered it on the 18th, and the
tide swept him along with great rapidity. Towards
evening he began to look for an anchorage, but this
was not easy to find, for the tide was rapid and the
water very deep. At last the anchor was dropped close
to the south-west shore of Adolphus Island, which sub
divided the gulf in which they were into two arms. The
noise made by the cable in running out put to flight an
immense number of bats which were resting in the man
grove bushes. They flew round and round the mast of
the cutter in such numbers that they darkened the air.
With the exception of these strange visitors, the coast
appeared very lonely, and the only noises which broke
the stillness of the cliffs were the echoes which stole
across the smooth heaving Avater from the ship.
The explorers landed next morning. They climbed
a high, steep, and rugged hill, close to the anchorge,
which cost them much pains and labour to ascend. The
view amply repaid their toil. They saw the south end
of the island, as a low flat swamp surrounded by man
groves. Along the main there was a hill (Shakespeare
Hill), and behind it a range which extended in a broken
line to a mountain named Mount Connexion. The
principal stream of the gulf was the west one, and three
and a half miles further on it opened into a large basin
of water. This contracted near some high hills, and
further it was lost tcview by winding among elevations
of the ground.
Of course, King thought he had made a great dis
covery. It would have been very difficult to persuade
him then that this gulf did not terminate in a river of
any kind. But this was the case. Cambridge Gulf,
for such it was named, is, in all Australia, one of the
most barren and useless inlets, and what makes this
character so peculiarly disappointing is, that from its

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 277
aspect, even seen on the map, one would certainly imagine
that it is the embouchure of a large river. The soil is
sandy and salt, the rocks are glaring red sandstone.
The water is undrinkable, and the vegetation of the
poorest kind. What with the salt on the plains, and
the briny water, the red colour of the rocks, the heat of
the climate, and the dreary character of the mud flats,
it is one of most fiery, scorching specimens of an Aus
tralian wilderness which has yet been found.
But Mount Adolphus was not so bad. Grass was
found springing up with great luxuriance in parts, and
the gullies were at times channels for a large body of
fresh water. Altogether, Captain King reported favour
ably of the island, often having rowed round it : but
then his opinion may have been tinged with his
pleasant anticipations of what he was going to find in
Cambridge Gulf.
On the 22nd, the wind and tide were unfavourable
for entering the opening, so King went to View Hill
again, to feast his eyes with the prospect of the gulf.
The country at the bottom appeared to be of rugged
and mountainous appearance, and the hills rose abruptly
in detached ranges from a low level plain extending to
the shore, fringed by the everlasting mangrove shrub
bery. These plains King said were not only covered
with salt incrustations, but also with stems and
branches of trees, and he thought in the simplicity of
his heart that this must be the drift-wood brought down
by the river. He even remarked on the large size of
their trunks, as indicating the superior size of the trees
of the interior from whence the river flowed.
The day following, the cutter was steered through
the narrows, with a depth of forty-five fathoms in the
channel. On entering the basin they found the country
very arid and heavy. On the 24th, they reached the
further end of the basin. The gulf had now assumed
the character of a river, and, at the end of three or four
miles, disappeared to the south-west under some hills.
In the evening the people were allowed to bathe. Just
as they came on board again, an alligator swam past the
ship. This certainly was a check on any future ablu-

278 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
tions, but it encouraged King's idea, that he was
approaching fresh water.
At daylight next morning they were again under
weigh. As they proceeded, the channel became more
and more contracted, and wound through a narrow
strait, between high precipitous hills, too narrow at last
for the cutter to proceed. They anchored, therefore,
about two miles from the low west bank, and Captain
King continued his examination in the whaleboat. The
passage proved about two and a half miles long, very
deep, and lined by steep hills. At the south end of it
appeared another basin, opening out from the channel
like the former. It was surrounded by low land, and,
of course, mangroves, and studded with several islets,
which were covered by every tide. The course of the
inlet was still south-west.
They rowed across this second basin, still full of
expectation, but with not much hope left. At the fur
ther side the channel contracted to a width of one hun
dred and fifty yards, and trended by a winding course
to the south-east. They were now sixty miles from the
sea, and the water was as salt as ever. It was very
clear, therefore, that this was not a river. King was
by this time thoroughly disheartened, and he determined
to go no further. He stopped at high water, and landed
on the bank to examine the country.
They were resting in a remarkable place. The scenery
was not picturesque, but it had a grandeur of its own,
amid its aridity. About three miles from the party
was the base of a very remarkable quadrangular mass
of hills. They rose abruptly from the salt-incrusted
plain in steep slopes, which terminated in cliffs and pre
cipices, or rocky escarpments, over the grassy incline.
The cliff protruded at times so as to resemble the ram
parts of a fortress, with bastions and counterscarps ; and
King thought that it only wanted a flag at the summit
to make the appearance complete. Of course, this was
a piece of the usual sandstone tableland, and its shape is
one of the many varieties of form which these monuments
of former denudation assume as they slowly weather in
the atmosphere. It was named Mount Cockburn.

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 279
All around the country appeared most desolate : the
grass, which was quite dry, wanted but a spark to set
the whole country in flames, and the country required
but such an addition to make its lurid appearance com
plete. The soil was a stiff clay, covered with salt ; and
the only traces of life in this lonely land were the foot
steps of some native dogs, and the watch-fires of the
savages in the distance. There was no inducement to
remain in such a place, and King turned his back upon
it as upon a locality on which the curse of God tad
fallen. From Cambridge Gulf, King passed along the coast
to Cape Londonderry, pausing and mapping as he
went the uninteresting c*oast which intervenes. The
French expedition had seen but little of the coast which
King was about to explore, and he therefore antici
pated that it would prove the most interesting part of
his voyage. Beyond Cape Londonderry the land is
very low, and defended by an extensive reef. There
were a great number of small islands off the shore, which
received various names, but they need not delay us as
long as they did Captain King.
On the 1st of October, they anchored off the en
trance -of a considerable bight or bay, which was almost
blocked up by a reef of rocks. It was doubtful whether
they would be able to penetrate into it, without going
round the Eclipse Islands, which had been so named in
consequence of an eclipse of the moon, which had hap
pened while the Mermaid was anchored near them. The
next morning was therefore passed in examining the
reefs to the southward. Captain King ascended a steep
hill, which rose abruptly from the shore ; the view,
however, did not answer his expectation. A low coun
try, of arid and barren appearance, extended to the
southward, while the north part of the land was a penin
sula, which Baudin had called Bourgainville Island.
This view was taken from the south-west end of Long
Island, an islet like so many which have been described
before. It is of a rugged character, formed principally
of large water-worn masses of quartzose sandstone,
lying on a basis of the same rock. Traces of natives

280 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
were numerous on this island and the main. Upon the
latter were also many beds of fresh-water streams, none
of which they examined. On the beach of one of the
sandy bays there were marks of a very large encamp
ment, and this caused King to be very cautious in look
ing out against any surprise, and preparing for it.
The shores and hills were thickly scattered over
with large masses of dark red rock, generally covered
with a quartz incrustration, not crystallized, apparently.
Everything bore the most parched and arid appearance,
and, though the country was seen at an unfavourable
season, the stunted character of the trees showed how
poor was the soil. Yet the hills were thickly wooded,
and numerous kangaroo tracks were observed in all
directions. There was also a kind of vine found very
plentifully among the trees, and its climbing habit
made it a very considerable obstacle in penetrating the
woods. The examination of the bay to the south of Eclipse
Islands took up the time until the 8th October. The
scenery, in consequence of its rocky and rugged charac
ter, with the luxuriance of the vegetation, was interest
ing, and even beautiful. The bay was more a cliffy
inlet, and the dark colour of the rocks, the smoothness
of the water, the thick black shadow ofthe forest, whose
stillness was only broken by the noise of the oars, gave
a very different impression from any yet received from
the Australian coast. As the boat went down the west
side of the bay, a family of natives was discovered. The
women ran away with their provisions, while the men
took their spears. King, not wishing to alarm them,
pulled across to the opposite shore, and landed. He and
Mr. Cunningham ascended a steep hill, which showed
an arid land around, and nothing more. Yery foolishly,
they had mounted this hill without bringing their arms ;
and as they descended the natives made an attempt to
cut off their retreat. By making a bold front, the ex
plorers managed to reach their boat in safety ; but they
were not quite done with the savages. In rowing past
a point less wooded than usual, Mr. Cunningham wished
to land to collect some plants. Before he could do so

KING'S SECOND VOYAGE. 281
the natives rushed out from a bush near, and commenced
throwing stones at the boat, besides brandishing their
spears. A musket fired over their heads had the effect
of effectually dispersing them this time, and they were
not seen afterwards.
This bay was called Vansittart Bay. On leaving it,
King sailed westward, passing three inlets, about two
miles deep and one broad. Another extensive gulf was
found on the 10th, which was examined in the whale-
boat. It was found to terminate in two inlets, winding
under either side of a range of steep rocky hills, which
were thickly clothed with stunted trees. Both arms
were explored. They were shallow inlets of little im
portance. The whole bay was named Port Warrender,
and formed one of the most promising harbours found
upon this part of the coast. Its extent was very consi
derable ; and though the land around was rugged and
rocky, and the soil shallow, the hills on the western
side were thickly covered with grass and trees. In the
gullies the latter grew very luxuriantly, with all the
splendour of a tropical flora. The verdure of these
places made it rather disappointing to find that they
were utterly destitute of water. On the eastern side of
the port the land was much broken, and fronted by a
number of small islands.
On the 13th, they left Port Warrender, and at sun
set anchored off Point Pickering, so named after a
friend of King. A bay trended to the westward ofthe
point, and it was called Walmesley Bay ; beyond this
was an archipelago of islands. The space between
Cape Bourgainville and the islands was called Admi
ralty Gulf, and the islands off Cape Voltaire had already
been very partially examined by Baudin.
At this point, King resolved to leave the coast
again for a while. His stock of fresh water was running
short, but it was not alone on that account, as the water
might be replenished at some part ofthe sandstone coast
further on; but the men were sickening rapidly for
want of fresh provisions, and unless something were
done to relieve them, he would have to return to
Sydney. Accordingly, he left the survey on the 21st,

282 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
and sailed for Timor, breaking off his survey in long.
125° 41' 22".
From Timor, King sailed to Port Jackson, with the
intention, of course, of proceeding with his explorations
as soon as possible. His course was much impeded by
baffling winds, so that, though he sailed from Coepang
on the 9th November, he did not reach Sydney until
the 12th January, 1820.
The result of the proceedings during this voyage
had been the exploration of five hundred and forty
miles of northern coast, in addition to the five hundred
which were previously examined ; besides which a sur
vey had been made of a passage inside the reefs to
Torres Straits. It was not intended that King should
make a detailed survey of this extensive tract of coast,
and he did not, consequently, examine in a detailed way
the bottom of every opening or bay that presented itself.
What was known of the inlets, therefore, was not to be
considered decisive of their importance. This should be
specially borne in mind, because parts of the coast
examined by King have not been since explored.
At Coepang, King learned from the Secretary of the
Government that Captain De Freycenet, with the French
corvette St. Marie, had just visited Timor. She had
been fitted out at Toulon for a voyage round the world,
and was expected to touch on the western shores of
Australia ; but she only called at Sharks Bay, and re
mained no longer than was necessary for astronomical
and pendulum observations.

CHAPTER XIII.
KING'S THIRD VOYAGE.
Resumption of the survey — Montagu Sound — York Sound — Prince Frederick's
Harbour — Roe's River — Coronation Islands — Port Nelson — Careening Bay
— Brunswick Bay^Prince Regent's River — Mounts Trafalgar and Water
loo — The Mermaid springs a leak and returns.
King refitted his vessel with the utmost despatch, which
he was enabled to do all the more quickly as a vessel had
just arrived from England with stores. Better prepared
for sea than ever, and this time with the additional
luxury of a surgeon on- board, the Mermaid sailed again
on the 14th June, 1820. On this voyage she went
round the east side of the coast.
On the 20th, they anchored on the south side of
Cape Bowen, in the entrance of the inlet which extends
southward within the projection of Cape Clinton. In
doing this, the tide swept them on to a sandbank, and
the cutter received very serious damage. While she
was on the bank she was continually striking, and at
one time they heard a loud crash, which told of some
serious damage, as it was -then thought to the rudder
or stern-post, but as no leak followed, King considered
the injury trifling. In this he was much deceived ; the
damage was very serious, and had its extent been known
at the time, it would have been advisable to return at
once to Sydney.
From Cape Clinton, King proceeded through Torres
Straits across the Gulf of Carpentaria, and on the 3rd
September he anchored a few miles south of Cape Vol
taire — the part of the coast he had left on his last voyage.
The first observation was that, within sight of the vessel,
no less than twenty-three islands could be counted ; and

284 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
of that number every one was rocky, barren, and un
interesting. A boat was sent to the one furthest out,
named Water Island, and it was found to be as rocky
in reality as it was in appearance. It is formed of a
hard, granular quartzose sandstone of a bluish grey
colour, horizontally stratified, and the surface covered
with blocks, over and between which a shallow soil with
porcupine grass occurred. The exposed surfaces of the
rock, King says, are coloured by the oxide of iron,
which is so generally the case on the north and north
western coasts, that the name of the Red Coast has
been justly given to a great portion of the continent.
It is worth while describing the spinifex, or porcupine
grass, in order to complete the picture of the island. It
grows in tufts like large beehives, or piles of thrift
grass, and the leaves project out rigidly in all direc
tions, just like chevaux-de-frise. Merely brushing by
will cause the points to strike into the limbs, and a very
short walk in such country soon covers the legs with
blood. The reader will often see it spoken of in future,
for, unfortunately, two or three species of it extend
throughout the whole continent, and form a part of
the descriptions in the journal of every explorer.
The bay behind the islands was called Montagu
Sound. It is bounded on the west by an island of con
siderable size, named Bigge Island, and separated from
the main by Scott's Strait. On the 9th they steered
through the latter, and, doubling Cape Pond, the land
was observed to trend in very deeply to the south. On
the next day they entered this opening, and the day
following anchored at the end of it. It was a very
extensive harbour, bounded by bold and irregular
ranges of rocky hills. Among these were two peaks,
Mounts Manning and Anderdon ; and under them a
large opening. To the eastward of the anchorage there
was another, but not so interesting in appearance.
The next morning, King went in one boat to examine
the inlet under Manning Peak, while Mr. Roe went in
another to examine the river falling into the bottom of
the bay. King's voyage proved most interesting. He
proceeded up a considerable reach bounded by cliffs

KING'S THIRD VOYAGE. 285
two or three hundred feet high. The latter was four
miles wide, and the red cliffs gave it a most solemn
and picturesque appearance. At the end of this the
channel turned to a river, which wound with a serpen
tine course along the foot of the hills. The latter were
rugged and steep, but the banks, which had been formed
by boulders of sandstone, detached from the summit of
the overhanging hills, were now clothed with man
groves. It seemed as if the boulders had been formed
by cascades flowing through the crevices of the sand
stone, and some had been pushed thus from the surface
of the cliffs upwards of two hundred feet from the water
level. Everything around spoke in plain terms of the
violence of the rainy season at times, and King thought
it would be dangerous to expose a small vessel to the
strength of the freshes in the stream. But like all Aus
tralian rivers whose channels are wide, and which are
supplied by strong freshes, its course was very short. At
the distance of only six miles from the end of the first
reach the channel was only twenty-five yards wide, and
its bed blocked up in a romantic glen by large red
water- worn masses of sandstone.
About a mile below this they had unexpectedly found
a spring of fresh water bubbling up among the man
groves, and yielding a very considerable quantity,
although it was covered by the sea at every tide.
While waiting for the flood, they ascended the hills to
examine the country, but it was too mountainous to give
them an extensive view. The prospect was stopped on
every side by mountains higher still. The bed of the
river could be traced as a deep gully or fissure.
To understand the nature of this country it should
be borne in mind that it is a part of the coast where a
very high portion of the tableland abuts directly upon
the sea. In other places, such as Carpentaria, there is
a wide extent of alluvial plains between the sandstone
cliffs and the ocean, and it may be that the difference
between the two localities is, that one is in the course of
upheaval, and the other of subsidence. The detached
islands, high, cliffy, and rocky, and all so very close to
the shore, would seem to indicate a subsidence near the

286 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
red coast, while the shallows of Carpentaria indicate
upheaval. In any case, however, the tableland abuts
upon the sea in the most of Tasman's Land. This is the
reason why it is reft into rocky inlets. This is the
explanation of the detached islands, and the high pre
cipitous cliffs of the shore. It must not be imagined
that there are true mountains hereabouts. These are
only harder portions of rock, where the softer red sand
stone has been cut away by the ocean or by floods all
around them. The view, therefore, from one of them
is unequalled for peculiarity in any other part of the
world. Flat hills, with sides like escarpments, rise one
above another in geometrical forms, and yet very ir
regularly. The horizon seems divided into squares and
parallel steps, amid which fresh water has burrowed
and tunnelled until it has made the even strata look like
children's toys or building bricks thrown into a heap.
One might imagine anything from the various forms of
rocks presented to view, except that rain had done it
nearly all ; and if the ground is viewed from a great
height, the hills and valleys, plains and rocks, must be
like the cracked surface of a dried mud plain.
On King's return he landed at the spring which had
been seen only on the way up. The tide had covered
it ; but upon searching, another was found further back
among the mangroves. This discovery was so valuable
that the river was thought worthy of a name, and it
was called after Mr. Hunter, the surgeon of the ship.
The spring bubbled up at the rate of three gallons a
minute. Mr. Roe did not return until sunset of the following
day from the examination of the river, which falls into
the bottom of the port. When he left the cutter he
pulled first towards a hill which seemed easy to ascend.
From this elevation the country around seemed very
stony and barren, while the banks of the river were
low and lined with mangroves, amid which many salt
water inlets extended to the hills behind. Whilst
Mr. Roe was making his observations, twelve natives,
with .two dogs, made their appearance on the opposite
shore, which was separated from the hill by a soft mud

KING'S THIRD VOYAGE. 287
flat. They attempted to cross to him, shouting louflly
as they advanced, but when half-way over they desisted,
and slowly returned.
From this station, which was seven miles from the
mouth, the explorers followed the course of the river :
first in an easterly direction for ten miles, and then
sometimes east and sometimes west of south for fifteen
miles more. At this distance it was more than seventy
yards wide, and most romantic in its scenery. The
banks were lined with mangroves, but immediately
behind them cliffs three ' hundred feet high raised their
red fronts. Here the party landed to pass the night,
and before dark Mr. Roe and his companion, Mr. Cun
ningham, went through the arduous task of climbing
the hills. They were ill repaid for their labours. From
the summit they could see nothing of the country.
Ridges beyond ridges of rocky, wooded hills were all
that met their gaze on every side. No signs of human
being were seen, and the only traces of soil on the sur
face of these rocks were ant-hills composed of dry and
dusty sand ; and yet, in spite of this poverty, trees from
twenty to forty feet high were abundant. Need it be said
again that the rocks were of sandstone, in nearly hori
zontal strata, coated with a crust of quartz, and coloured
by ferruginous oxide ?
On their return to the tent they made preparations
to pass the night. It was considered prudent to keep
the boat afloat, and one of the men was placed in her
for the purpose. Overpowered by fatigue, he fell
asleep, and the boat was left dry upon the mud. He
would have slept peaceably until the morning, but that
the party on shore were disturbed continually by what
was thought to be the rushing of alligators into the
water beneath them. The noise may have been caused
by stones and lumps of mud falling into the stream as
the tide ebbed. A splash, however, was heard on the
opposite side which was not so easily accounted for, and
as an alligator had been seen swimming by in the
evening, Mr. Roe became alarmed for the safety of the
boat-keeper. He hastened to warn him of his danger,
but we must suppose that the sleeper's anxieties were

288 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
allayed by seeing other people so watchful on his
account. Like a sensible man, therefore, he refused to
wake up, and his only reply to warnings was to consign
all alligators to a warmer and even worse watered place
than North Australia. Fortunately for him, there were
no alligators near enough to hear him.
As soon as the tide ebbed, Mr. Roe commenced to
return, and during his passage down saw no less than
twelve alligators. The sleeper was, however, wide
awake hoav, and his only return to the reptiles for their
forbearance was to fire two balls at them. The bullets
glanced off as harmlessly as his profane wishes. The
river was named after Mr. Roe's father.
After completing their supply of water they left
the river, but, owing to light winds, did not succeed in
getting out of the harbour until the following morning.
Its western side was very indistinctly seen, and it was
thought probable that there might be other mountain
streams there. The harbour was named after Prince
Frederick, and the sound in front of it York Sound.
Passing Point Hardy, they entered another fine
harbour bounded on the west by a group of islands, and
on the east by a projection of land, which forms the
eastern side of Prince Frederick's Harbour. The flood
tide was sufficient to carry them to the bottom, so that
they anchored off the east end of the most southerly of
the group, which were named Coronation Islands. The
harbour was called Port Nelson, and a high rocky hill
which was distinguished over the land to the southward
received the name of Mount Trafalgar.
Ever since the accident off Cape Cleveland the cutter
had leaked a great deal. At first the amount of water
was slight, but it had now increased so much that it
became absolutely necessary to repair it or return to
Port Jackson. Fortunately, they were upon a portion
of the coast where the tides had a sufficient rise and fall
to enable them to lay the ship upon the beach without
difficulty, but York Sound and Prince Frederick's Har
bour were too steep for the purpose, ¦ and they hailed
with joy a small bay which lay before them, and seemed
precisely suitable for the purpose.

KING'S THIRD VOYAGE. 289
Every heavy article was sent on shore ; the sails
were suspended to trees, so as to make tents, and the
officers and crew were thus very comfortably housed.
The anchorage was four hundred yards from the beach,
which was near enough to protect their property,
though no natives had as yet been seen. Near the tents
some excellent water-holes were found, and thus they
commenced the repair of the vessel under very favour
able circumstances. The damage done to the ship was
very considerable. Presuming my readers to be as
little versed as myself in marine technology, I hesitate
to plunge into the mysteries of stern sash and gar-
board streaks ; suffice it to say, that though the injury
was much greater than they believed, still they hoped
to patch matters up so as to continue the survey.
The repairs were completed by the 5th of October,
and the crew proceeded to restore the tents, &c, on
board again. The little bay in which they were em
ployed was thoroughly explored. It was named
Careening Bay, and possessed but few peculiarities ;
the gouty stem tree was here, for the first time, noticed
and described.*
From the summit of the ridge at the back of the
bay, the country was seen to be continuous on a series
of barren stony hills, clothed with small trees of stunted
growth, except on their tops, which were bare. In
the season which succeeds the rains, the hills are
covered with a lofty reedy grass, which soon dries with
the heat, and forms the food for bush fires made by the
natives. No animals were seen about, and only a few
pigeons ; but two native huts were found ; one with
stone walls, which is very unusual in their habitations.
On the 9th, they left Careening Bay, and passing
out between Cape Brewster and Coronation Islands,
* This tree is distinguished by the extraordinary swollen appearance of
the stem, which looks as though the tree were diseased or the result of a freak
of nature. The youngest as well as the oldest. trees have the same deformed
appearance, and inside the bark is a soft juicy pulp instead of wood, which is
said to be serviceable as an article of food. The stem of the largest tree at
Careening Bay was twenty-nine feet in girth ; it is named the Adansonia
digitata. A species is found in Africa. In Australia it occurs only on the
north coast.
VOL. I. U

290 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
entered a spacious sound, called Brunswick Bay. From
Cape Brewster the land extended for six miles to Cape
Wellington. In front of the latter a cluster of islands
extended to the westward, beyond which the mainland
was only seen in detached points. Beyond the cape
there was another considerable opening, trending to
the south, and looking very much like a river. The
wind and tide favoured, and the Mermaid stood in
until high water, for there was very little danger in
these inlets, which were deep and almost free from
shoals. But at high tide there was no anchorage
obtainable, and therefore the course was continued. At
seven miles from the entrance they passed Rothsay
Water — a considerable opening on the east side ; and
opposite to it was another called Munster Water, with
several rocky islands in front, prettily covered with
grass and trees. The course was continued, as the
direction of the main stream turned south-east ; and five
miles from this the channel opened out into an extensive
sheet of water, with two large islands in the middle.
Between one of these and the shore they found an
anchorage in a very pleasing little strait. Before
them the country opened into an extensive plain, from
the midst of which two mountains . rose precipitously.
They were steep and well wooded, and capped by a
wall, either like battlements, or the hills at the end of
Cambridge Gulf.
The further examination of the opening was con
ducted in boats ; King going to explore the continuation
of the river on the south-east end, while Mr. Roe went
along the north and east shores of the basin. Upon
leaving the cutter, King crossed to the south-east end,
which appeared to receive several streams. About two
miles further, the banks of the channel contracted, and
trended to the south-east on so short a course that it
seemed, as one looked down it, to be like a strait, and no
land could be seen in the distance beyond. Fourteen
miles further up, the river decreased to half a mile wide.
The scenery was magnificent. The usual cliffs rose up
as precipices directly over the water, and what made
this more beautiful was, that the surface was continually

KING'S THIRD VOYAGE 291
broken by salt water inlets, which made the sides look
like turreted castles.
Down the face of these castellated escarpments, water
was seen trickling from between the strata, showing
what becomes of the surface drainage in this country.
But they soon had a better demonstration of this. At
the distance of seventeen miles, the noise of a cascade
could be heard falling, and an opening in the man
groves exposed to view a cascade flowing out from the
rocks, in width about sixty feet, and of very considerable
height. On a coast where water was not often seen,
this was a sight as gratifying as it was beautiful. It is
not exceptionable, moreover. Captain Grey, as it will
be seen in a further part of this volume, was upon this
coast during the raining season, and he says that the
whole of the cliffs pour down water after bad weather,
and that the ultimate exit of the surface drainage from
the middle of these sandstone precipices forms a most
beautiful phenomenon.
Three miles beyond the cascade the party put ashore
to rest and refresh the boat's crew. Mr. Hunter, the
surgeon, ascended a hill to examine the country. But
after all his fatigue he did not see much. The view
was such as might be seen from any rock elevation
hereabouts ; that is, rocky square-shaped mountains and
sterile desert. The character of the river was the same
as Hunter's and Roe's Rivers, in Prince Frederick's
Harbour, excepting that the hills were less precipitous,
and rather more wooded. Two miles further the chan
nel became more narrow and tortuous, and the man
groves more abundant on lower banks. Beyond this
the party did not go. Prince Regent's River, for so it
was named, has been since further explored, but it is an
unimportant inlet.
On reaching the cutter, it was found that Mr. Roe
had returned the preceding evening. He had examined
the north-east shore of the basin, and traced two small
openings for a short distance. They were neither in
teresting nor important. On his return he had pulled
round the south side of an island, and landed. In
making a fire the flame caught the neighbouring grass,
v 2

292 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
and in a very short time the whole surface of the island
was in a blaze. The grass burnt rapidly, but the
timber made a more substantial fire, which burnt for
days afterwards, filling the inlet with a blue smoke, or
brown haze, which hung upon the dark waters like a
pall. During the absence of the boats, the shores of the
bay of anchorage had been found to afford extensive
pools of fresh water, which supplied all the wants of the
ship. Mr. Cunningham had also ascended the hills,
which rose nearly perpendicularly for four hundred feet.
They were thickly clothed with trees and plants, grow
ing amid spinifex grass. Kangaroos were plentiful,
even where there was nothing for them to eat, and this
seemed to indicate better land a little further inland.
These rocks, which caused such a beautiful addition
to the scenery, and which so fruitfully supplied stores
of fresh water, were anything but agreeable to persons
engaged in the exploration. King's crew were now
all laid up with sores upon their feet and legs, received
in scrambling over the heights, and the red glare had
invalided a good many by causing ophthalmia. These
were serious obstacles, and, combined with the fact that
the rainy season was now approaching, had the effect of
putting an end to the survey for a time. While King
was deliberating in beating out of the river, the cutter
leaked badly. This made him decide upon returning
instantly to Port Jackson. It was with great regret
that he did so, for the land to the westward appeared
very deeply indented and interesting. He therefore
sailed to Sydney. Nothing remarkable occurred on the
return voyage, except that in a thunderstorm the cutter
struck upon a rock in entering Sydney Heads, and only
by the merest chance escaped total shipwreck. He
anchored on the coast September 6, 1820.
The amount of work done in this survey was very
small indeed ; owing to the unfortunate accident in the
early part of the voyage, the subsequent proceedings
had been much crippled. The repairs at Careening
Bay had occupied time which would otherwise have
been spent in exploration, and the state of the weather

KING'S THIRD VOYAGE. 293
had been generally unfavourable throughout. But if
this was the smallest survey, it was certainly the most
interesting, and on all the north coast there is no portion
about which so much curiosity is still felt as the lofty
cliffs and deeply cut fiords of the well-named Red Coast.
Readers will see more about it further on in this volume,
and how the charms it had for the- enthusiastic Grey
led to one of the most interesting and unfortunate expe
ditions recorded in Australian history.

294

CHAPTER XIY.

KING'S LAST VOYAGE.

New ship — Bathurst Bay — Encounter with the natives — Hanover Bay —
Port George the Fourth — Cockerill Islands — Cape Leveque — Point
Emerieau — Cape Baskerville — King George's Sound — Swan River — The
West Coast — -Establishment at Port Cockburn.
Soon after King's return it was found that the Mer
maid was utterly unfit for further service, without
undergoing an amount of repair which would take up
a great deal too much time. The Government, therefore,
purchased a brig, of 170 tons burden, and equipped it for
King's party. The crew was now numerically increased
in consequence of the larger accommodation, and on the
26th of May, 1821, they sailed from Sydney. The brig
was named the Bathurst, and the course was through
Torres Straits. In passing along the east coast, many
opportunities were taken of landing, and examining the
shore. It would be a thrice-told tale to repeat obser
vations which have been made so often on this part of
Australia, besides which the description would em
brace little more than a list of rocks, plants, and natives
in canoes. But in Bathurst Bay they met with some
thing more than these. A vessel, named the Frederick,
had been wrecked in this bay, and King landed with a
boat's crew, to examine what remained of it. The party
soon obtained all they wanted, and had scattered over
the beach collecting shells, when all at once King and
three companions were cut off from the beach by the
natives. Fortunately they had one gun among them,
and this served to keep the savages in check, and after
a slow and fatiguing retreat over a reef of rocks, during

KING'S LAST VOYAGE. 295
which the explorers were obliged to walk backward,
with their faces to their opponents, the relief party was
reached. The blacks then drew off, but the matter did
not end there. As soon as King went on board, spears
were thrown, and the blacks were fired upon and
wounded. While this was going on, Mr. Cunningham had
visited Clark's Island, which lies off the main shore.
One portion of it possessed features of peculiar interest,
which correspond singularly with what Grey afterwards
found on the Red Coast. Mr. Cunningham says :
" that the remarkable structure of the geological
features of this islet, led him to examine the southern
part, which was most exposed to the weather." The
lower stratum of the island was a quartz and jasper
conglomerate, about twenty feet thick, and above this
there was ten feet of schistose rock, so soft that the
weather had excavated several tiers of galleries or
caves. The sides of these were covered with drawings.
They were executed upon a ground of red ochre
(rubbed on the black schist), with dots of an argil
laceous paste. They represented figures of sharks,
porpoises, turtles, lizards, trepang, star-fishes, canoes,
water-gourds, and some quadrupeds, probably intended
for kangaroos and dogs. The figures, besides being
outlined by the dots, were decorated all over with the
same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Besides
these, a gallery led round to a cave large enough for
twenty natives, whose recent fireplaces appeared on the
floor. Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelves
or niches of the rock, and the roof and sides were
covered with the same sort of uncouth figures as those
just described. Altogether, there were nearly one
hundred and fifty of them, and very different from
those charcoal drawings described by Flinders, as
existing in a cave in Carpentaria.
It was not until August that the Bathurst reached
Hanover Bay, where King had desisted from his survey
ing operations the year before. This bay is not very
important, but it becomes interesting because it was the
basis of Captain Grey's operations in 1839. King left

296 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
it on the 11th, and after passing round its western
head, entered a deep opening. This had been seen on
the last voyage, and an island on it named Camp
Island, from its appearance at a distance. After pass
ing along a rocky shore for some distance, King
came into an extensive basin. This was thought to be
the opening of some important river — a hope which
each succeeding inlet always raised ; but it was not
even a bay. The bottom was found to be a strait, and
the western side of the opening an island. The island
was named Augustus, and the port after George the
Fourth. Beyond the inlet the land was broken and
rugged, with a decided trend to the south ; but King
had had the misfortune to lose two of his anchors, and
he could only very cautiously approach the shore.
Unluckily, the weather here was hazy, and the
basin lined with innumerable islands, so that a
respectful distance had to be kept, in spite of the desire
felt to get a near view.
Not that they had much loss, for this part of the
coast was not only very dangerous, but is of very little
interest. It was examined, subsequently, by Stokes, at
least that part near the deep opening which was now
named Collier Bay. It was of little interest, and
fringed by numerous islands and a coral reef. Some of
the cliffs present a remarkable appearance, however.
They are grey and aged looking, and where the
weather has eaten deeply into the surface of the rock,
the remains form sandstone pillars on the level summit,
like the battlements of a fortress.
In consequence of the islands and shoals, the next
continuous part of the mainland seen was Cape Leveque.
It had in the meantime undergone a complete change.
The shore was low, and fronted by a sandy beach, and
a reef, over which the sea broke for more than a mile.
There were here and there shrubs, but the luxuriance
of the tropical vegetation had undergone a complete
change. Altogether, the coast was dreary and desolate,
and reminded King that he was again beginning to
explore the part of which North- West Cape is the
type and example.

KING'S LAST VOYAGE. 297
King, on laying down the chart of his course, found
Cape Leveque to be the point under which Dampier
had anchored in 1688. That was his first voyage, it
will be remembered, and it was from the view then
obtained of the coast that he became so confident of the
results if he were allowed to make a second. Really,
he must have been easily pleased, or very sanguine, if
the view which this part of Australia presented
inspired him with much hopes of the rest.
On the 22nd, the Bathurst was abreast of a point
which was laid down on the French charts as Emerieau
Island ; but it was certainly not an island, and there
fore only the first part of the name was retained.
Near it the country falls back, and forms a bay, the
bottom of which was visible from the mast-head, and
appeared to be nothing but sand dunes. King dared
not take his vessel any nearer, because of the loss of his
anchors. And this was not the only inconvenience.
The crew were necessarily very much harassed by
keeping watch at night, and by the time they had
reached Cape Leveque, this had told upon them so
much that nearly the whole were invalided.
Rocks and islands, sand dunes and reefs, shoals and
low mangrove shores, are all that follow in the record of
King's surveys for many days subsequently. It would
be useless to attempt to follow him along a shore which
neither to him, Baudin, Dampier, nor Tasman, who
had gone before, presented one single point of interest.
Point Coulomb, in lat. 17° 13', affords some little differ
ence from sheer aridity and monotony. The red cliffs
are seen here, and this is one of their furthest points
westward. The interior is higher than to the north
ward, and rises at the distance of eight miles from the
shore to wooded hills. Though this is a verdant and
pleasing prospect in comparison to what occurs all
around, the coast itself undergoes no difference, but
still preserves its desert appearance.
One remarkable peculiarity here was the haze which
always hung upon the shore. This made it look a little
less monotonous. Atmospheric moisture caused great
refraction, and thus sandy hillocks seemed in the dis-

298 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
tance, like chalky cliffs ; stunted bushes like tall tower
ing trees, and distant headlands peered above the
horizon like fine rocky bluffs. What a pity it was not
all real ! Instead of that, the reality was only the
more wretched when stripped of the enchantment of
distance. The mist which gave such pleasing visions
from afar, was a stifling vapour reflecting the sand and
rocks. King soon got tired of it all. He sailed along it for
a few degrees further ; but as the wind blew constantly
from the south-west, and his progress was very slow
and tedious, he left the coast, and refitted at the
Mauritius. From Port Louis he proceeded to the south-west
coast, and anchored in King George's Sound. Here he
remained some days, and communicated with the
natives, who were peaceable and harmless. The sound
had been visited before in 1820, by a merchant vessel,
and this accounted for the savages here being familiar
with the native names for water and kangaroo at Port
Jackson. The reader need hardly be told that a
different language is spoken by every tribe, and though
the languages of the north-east coast seem most
diffused, none of them occupy a very large space in any
territory. While at the sound, Mr. Cunningham made an
excursion to the top of Bald Head. The observations
he made are worth recording, because the details of one
locality serve better to give an idea of the nature of the
country than any generalities about coast line and
rocks. Mr. Cunningham says : " Upon reaching the
summit of the ridge, and clearing a rocky gully which
intersected our track, we entered an elevated valley of
pure white sand, bounded on either side by ridges forty
feet high, that were in themselves totally bare, except
ing a thin clothing of shrubs upon the top. The
surface reflected a heat which was scarcely supportable.
The air in the valley was stagnant and suffocating,
though there was a light breeze upon the summit.
and the elevation was considerable. After traversing
the whole extent of this sandy vale, which is one-third

KING'S LAST VOYAGE. 299
of a mile long, with scarcely a plant to attract atten
tion, we perceived at its extremity some remarkably
fine specimens of Candollea cruciformis, which, in spite
of the poverty and looseness of the drifting sand, had
risen to large spreading trees, which were covered with
flowers and fruit. But so painful was it to the eyes
and senses to remain for a moment stationary in this
heated valley, that whilst I gathered seeds, my servant
was obliged to hurry to the ridge. But for this fine
plant, and the blue flowered Sccevola nitida, the whole
scene would have had all the horrors of an extreme
aridity." The ridge was of granite, and delightfully cool.
The extremity was the highest summit of the range,
while another sandy valley separated them from Bald
Head. This is of remarkable appearance from the sea,
having on either side of its bare sandy summit a con
trasting brushy vegetation. A calcareous rock, in a
decomposing state, capped the sand in many places ;
but the head itself is of granite. Altogether, its white
sand, black brushwood, and rugged granite foundation,
forming a fine headland, is none the more fertile for
having a characteristic Australian appearance.
From the sound, King sailed along the west coast,
checking many points of the survey of the west coast,
and finally anchoring in Swan River. This inlet has
already been described in connection with the Dutch
voyages. Since these, it had been surveyed during
Baudin's expedition. From the Swan, King slowly
sailed northwards, because the French had only
examined the coast very superficially, from Rottenest
Island to Sharks Bay. He kept about six miles from
the shore, which was near enough to see all there was
to be seen, which was very little indeed of any import
ance. The coast was formed by sandy hillocks or
dunes, from a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet high,
here and there sprinkled with shrubs, but quite bare in
many parts. Behind this frontier a second range of
hills was occasionally seen, with trees upon it. This
last was the sandstone tableland.
King's observations here were very just and accu-

300 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
rate. In the succeeding volume, as well as in this, the
reader will have ample opportunity of testing the truth
and repeating the monotony of this coast line. It is
the same as the Red Coast, only that a rampart of sand
hills intervenes between it and the sea. This rampart
is a few miles wide, and through it small streams and
sometimes wide mountain torrents flow down from the
ranges to the sea. These streams are few and far
between, and can only be seen from the land. Their
banks are well grassed and even fertile, but the
intervening country is a hopeless scrub, through which
it is very difficult to force a path. Many explorers
have done so, and their story will hereafter be told.
For the present, let the reader bear in mind the cha
racter of this country. It is easily recollected, and once
remembered it will explain in a moment all that sub
sequent explorers had to tell.
On the 18th, the inland range had reached a height
of a thousand feet. It was, of course, flat-topped, and
at its northern end were four to five hills, only one of
which was peaked, and this range was noticed by the
French, and named by them. Captain King rather dis
courteously named them again — probably his visit to
the mountain had refreshed his memory on the subject
of Flinders' wrongs. The range was called after
Captain Moresby, and the hills Wizard Hills, and
Mounts Fairfax, &c. The shore in front of them was a
sand bank of a reddish hue. King noticed one or two
openings, which he rightly considered to be mountain
streams. He said that the country appeared to be
better wooded than in other parts, and as smoke arose
in many places, he considered that it was evidently a
favourite resort for the natives.
Hence the coast trends north-west to a bare patch of
sand, which was all the more remarkable because the
coast had now become a little less sandy than the
northern portions. In latitude 28° 25' it changed alto
gether. It was now steep and cliffy, with very few
patches of sand. I have to beg my readers' pardon for
these details. King had not a pleasant task on this
dismal shore, neither have those who try to abridge his

KING'S LAST VOYAGE. 301
labours ; but I have very nearly done with them now.
It is important to remark these sandy patches, for
among them lay the River Murchison, which is such
an interesting feature upon this west coast.
King next entered into Sharks Bay, on the 20th.
He had not been anchored five minutes before the
correctness of Dampier's appellation was proved by the
number of sharks which surrounded the brig. One
was caught, measuring eleven feet ; but in general
they were more numerous than large. But if their
bodies were small, that was not the case with their
appetites, for they were extremely voracious.
And here we shall leave King. His observations
from this point were merely confirmatory of other
explorations. Besides this, a few days more brought
him to Cape Leveque, which completed his chart. As
he passed along, Point Disaster and Goodenough Bays
were discovered and named ; but they possessed no
point of interest, and did not differ from any other
part of the north-west coast, either in barrenness or
monotony. The only elevation seen inland was a
remarkable flat-topped hill, near Point Cunningham,
named Carlisle Head.
The Bathurst arrived in Sydney on the 25th March,
1822. This was King's last voyage. He had during
its progress sufficiently explored a good deal of the
north-west coast ; but five hundred and ten miles of it,
between Port George the Fourth and Depuch Island,
he was obliged to leave unexamined. The land laid
down on the maps of that period is nothing but an
archipelago of islands fronting a mainland whose
situation was quite uncertain. King's examination of
these islands Avas carried on as far as Cape Villaret ;
but between that and Depuch Island the coast had
only been seen occasionally by Baudin, and then only
in detatched portions. All was left in conjecture ; but
as the space was of considerable extent, King fondly
hoped that in it might be found an opening leading to
the interior. The fact of there being so many islands
ought to have told him differently, because where they
were so numerous and small, it was against reason to

302 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
suppose the coast was not near at hand. Subsequent
examinations by Wickam and Stokes proved this, and
showed that that unknown coast was utterly devoid of
interest, possessing but one small river, as far as the im
perfect examination of a marine survey could ascertain.
In taking leave of King, he deserves, in all justice,
a meed of praise for his labours. He was a courageous
and enterprising explorer, who did more to advance the
knowledge of Australian geography than any who
preceded him, except, perhaps, Flinders. His reputa
tion as an explorer is especially dear to the colonists,
because he was almost a native of the colony. He was
the son of Captain King, who came out with Governor
Phillip's fleet in 1788, and was born in Norfolk Island
in 1791. He was for a long time subsequently a
member of the New South Wales Legislative Council ;
and having attained the rank of rear-admiral, he died
some few years ago.
One of the principal results of King's explorations
was the establishment of a settlement at Port Cockburn,
in the strait between Bathurst and Melville Islands, on
the north coast. Captain J. Gordon Bremer was
despatched by the Government, in 1824, to take posses
sion of Arnhem's Land, and form an establishment on
the most eligible spot which could be found for a mer
cantile depot. The expedition was confined to the
Tamar ship, but it was to be joined by the Countess of
Harcourt and Lady Nelson, transports at Sydney. The
second officer of the Tamar was Lieutenant Roe, King's
former companion, present surveyor - general of
Western Australia, and, as before stated, the veteran of
Australian exploration.
Having cleared Torres Straits, the Tamar anchored
in Port Essington. All the boats were hoisted out,
and the marines landed. A union-jack was fixed upon
a tree, and formal possession taken, amid three volleys
from the marines, and a royal salute from the Tamar.
No doubt this was a very useful and indispensable
ceremony, and the only proper way to take possession ;
but the port was not to be taken so easily. The land
obstinately refused to give up fresh water. Parties

KING'S LAST VOYAGE. 303
were despatched in every direction, but only one
watering-place was discovered, and that in the sand,
affording a most precarious supply. The adjoining
country was found to be very good forest land, well
timbered, but parched with drought, which, of course,
was decisive of its utility to the settlers. It was no use
stopping, so they determined' to try Apsley Strait.
That, it will be remembered, is the passage between
two islands which King mistook for a large river.
Light winds retarded the passage to Cape Van
Diemen, and it was not until the 26th September that
they anchored in St. Asaph Bay. Possession was taken
first, and a search for water ensued. At the expiration
of five or six days, a small river, and plenty of water,
was discovered on Melville Island, with a good place for
a settlement near it. The ships were moved there on
the 2nd, and parties immediately landed to commence
operations with the axe and saw. The projection
of" land fixed upon for a town was named after the
commandant, Captain Barlow, and the harbour after
Admiral Sir G. Cockburn. After the settlement had
gone through the preliminary inconvenience of a new
territory in such a climate, all went smoothly enough.
The natives were peaceable ; and though dishonest,
the information obtained from them was of considerable
service. In a month or two, however, a change came.
Open acts of hostility were committed, and natives,
upwards of a hundred in number, kept the colonists in
a continual state of alarm. It was not until some lives
were sacrificed that comparative peace was obtained ;
but only large parties could with safety leave the fort,
or explore the neighbourhood.
This was the beginning of the misfortunes of the
Melville Island settlement. Its subsequent history was
from bad to worse. The excessive heat, the aridity of
the climate, and, more than all, the unhealthiness of
the locality, all told sensibly on the colonists, and made
it more like a cemetery than a flourishing settlement.
In 1826 things reached such a state that it was evident
the colony must be moved, or the whole north coast
would have to be abandoned.

304 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Accordingly a new settlement was made in Raffles'
Bay. The command was given to Captain Barker, a
gentleman in whom the Government had the utmost
confidence, and whose unfortunate fate threw a
gloom over the early history of South Australia. But
Raffles' Bay was no better than Melville Island. For
three years the colonists held their ground, amid diffi
culties which are terrible even to read. Whether these
might have been obviated by better management, or a
different system of colonization, is a question for other
pages than these. It is sufficient to say that Raffles'
Bay was found quite unsuitable as a settlement ; and
the whole north coast was abandoned in 1829. The
subsequent attempts at colonizing some part of this
immense coast line will be narrated further on.

305

CHAPTER XV.
THE FIRST OVERLANDERS.
Hume at Lake Bathurst — Stirling and Ovens discover Maneiro Downs —
Hovell and Hume — Difficult Ranges — The Murray or Hume — The Ovens
— The Australian Alps — The Goulburn or Hovell — Great Dividing Range
—Port Phillip.
During all the time of Captain King's surveys, no
further measures had been taken by the Government to
ascertain the nature of the interior. Yet the country
was very slowly explored. It was not then, as now,
necessary to travel many hundred miles to get beyond
the settled districts ; neither was there a desert or some
other natural barrier to stop all further travelling
without formidable preparations. The bush was then
little known, and a squatter's run often meant a tract of
pastoral country as far as his cattle liked to stray, and be
yond which all was unknown to him. When one settler
more adventurous than another, liked to go further than
this, he was sure to make discoveries, and thus the
country to the west of the Blue Mountains was examined
almost by inches.
It will be easily understood that only very imperfect
records remain to us of what was done in this manner.
Some of the discoveries remained unknown to any but the
explorers, who found it to be their interest to conceal what
they knew. Others, again, made known what they had
seen to their immediate neighbours, and thus the news
slowly filtered to the public ear. It was quite the excep
tion, however, to bring such things immediately under the
notice of the Government, and the records of such gene
rosity are very few. Foremost among the exceptions
stands the name of Mr. Hamilton Hume. He was a
VOL. I. x

306 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
native of the colony, and was born in 1797, and from
a very early age distinguished himself as an explorer.
When only seventeen, he discovered the country around
Berrima. This was to the southward of Sydney, and on
the east side of the range, where the semi-tropical flora
of this peculiar tract, and the richness of its soil, have
made it one of the most important parts of New
South Wales.
In 1817, he discovered Lake Bathurst, amid fertile
plains, to the south-west of Sydney. The lake is situate
on the tableland, and is over 2000 feet above the sea level.
For this service Mr. Hume received a grant of 300
acres of land, and from thenceforth was very much con
nected with exploring expeditions, as we shall have to
relate. It was not long after the discovery of the lake, that
the country was taken up by enterprising settlers. The
ground adjoining was of the best description for pas
toral purposes, and, what was of great importance in this
climate, was well supplied with water. But, in truth,
scarcity of water was one of the last things which the
settlers had to fear. This elevated tableland is bleak
and exposed, and during the winter visited by heavy
snow storms and floods. Within a short distance of
Lake Bathurst, Lake George was found. The two were
scarcely ten miles apart, in a direct line. Lake George
is a fine sheet of water, in latitude 30° 48', twenty miles
in length, and eight in breadth, and 2129 feet above the
sea. It is situate in a part of the Dividing Range where
a westerly spur, composed of serpentine and porphyry,
divides the tributaries of the Lachlan from those of the
Murrumbidgee Rivers. It is a locality famed in New
South Wales for picturesque beauty or the savage
sublimity of its scenery. Gentle downs and rugged
peaks, arid plains and snow-capped mountains, form the
staple of the prospect as one journeys around the lake.
In 1823, an expedition was undertaken by Captain
Currie and Brigade-General Ovens, to examine the
southward of Lake George. The mountainous aspect
of the land in that direction had not tempted the settlers
to its exploration, and very little was known about

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 307
it. The two explorers did not go far, and, as usual, all
they saw was of the greatest importance. When they
had crossed the first range, fifteen miles to the south of
the lake, they found an extensive plain to the south
ward, and to the south-west the darkening gullies of the
Murrumbidgee Mountains partially covered with snow.
Other ranges succeeded, with plains again, and then
they came to the first river they met with, called the
South Fish River. All this country had been dis
covered before. The guide who was with them had
been over this tract,, and he told them that there was
another fine river further south, which the natives
called the Murrumbidgee. They reached this on the
1st June, at about thirty miles from Lake George. It
ran through fine forest country and small plains. The
explorers were obliged to follow the river to the south
ward, for it was then running too high for them to
cross. In tracing it up towards its sources, they passed
through much good country of forests and plains. The
ranges were covered with pine trees, and bold in their
aspect, while the plains, though well grassed, were very
stony. On the 3rd, they reached an extensive plain,
which proved to be the commencement of a very long
chain of downs. These Avere explored for nearly
seventy miles without reaching their termination.
They were plains of well-grassed and well-watered land ;
bounded on the west by the snowy mountains of the
Murrumbidgee, and on the east by coast range. Want
of provisions prevented the explorers from going further ;
but the tract they discovered has since become one of
the valuable pastoral tracts in the colony of New South
Wales, and has at present several townships upon it.
The Murrumbidgee River, thus discovered, soon be
came an object of interest to geographical inquirers,
not only because it added one more to the number of
Australian rivers, which emptied itself into the unknown
interior, but also because it seemed to offer a very good
chance for exploring the south-west line of country be
tween Sydney and Port Phillip. The utter ignorance
of the colonists on the subject of the intervening land
had completely prevented further investigation ; but as
x-2

308 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
one river had been found to the south, and high moun
tains seen in advance, there could be no great risk in
making the attempt. It was first undertaken in 1824,
by the enterprising Mr. Hume. Governor Brisbane
entertained the idea that a knowledge of all the rivers
on the east coast would be obtained by landing a party
of convicts at Wilson's Promontory, with the promise of
a reward if they reached Sydney from thence. Hume
was asked to take charge of the party, but he refused.
After considerable negotiation, it was arranged that he
and Hovell, a retired shipmaster, should lead a party
overland from Lake George to Western Port, the
Government finding only a very small portion of the
equipment, and six prisoners to form the party.
Starting from the settled districts, early in October,
they did not arrive at the Murrumbidgee until the 22 nd
of the same month. The river was then much too high
for them to ford, and their supply of provisions so scanty,
that they could not think of waiting until the waters
subsided. They set about at once to make a raft, hut
out of the multitude of trees around them, they could
not find one whose timber was light enough to float.
This was a vexatious obstacle at the very commence
ment ; but Hume was quite equal to the emergency.
In one of his former expeditions he had learned to use a
cart as a punt, and they had one with them now. Off
went its wheels, axles and shafts in a moment, and by
the aid of a tarpaulin it was soon converted into a
very serviceable raft. Hume and one of the men then
swam across the river with a thin line between their
teeth, and by its aid pulled a rope over. The raft
was then timidly launched, and after three or four trips
had carried all their stores across. The cattle were then
brought over. This was not quite so successful. The
stream was so strong, that they were repeatedly turned
over in the water, but by good management none were
drowned. Thus ended their first adventure.
It was, however, by no means their last. They were
upon the western declivity of the tableland, and had to
learn that the streams were not half so deep, dangerous,
and difficult, as the chasms they had cut for themselves,

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 309
in flowing to the westward. Had they understood the
nature of the coast range, they would not have attempted
to cross near the sources of the inland waters, where the
rapidity of the fall has made the torrents cut very
deep into the mountain side. Further to the west, their
course would have been over plains, boggy perhaps, and
with wider rivers ; but still not difficult to travel over.
As it was, their journey was across rivers and up wall
like precipices ; over table lands and down perpendicu
lar chasms, until it was a marvel to them, as it is to us,
how they were able to penetrate so far and carry out
their objects as they did.
Immediately after leaving the banks of the Murrum
bidgee, travelling was good enough. They moved in a
south-west direction, and this brought them through
hilly, forest country, with high but not very steep
ranges. The woodlands terminated in beautiful grassy
plains, skirted by a forest; but walled in with such
awfully rocky mountains that the hope of ascending
them quite died out of their hearts. This was really a
barrier. To ascend it was out of the question, and
the next difficult thing was to find a pass. Up to the
24th was spent in the search ; but all in vain. Then,
unfortunately, disappointment soured their tempers,
and the two leaders quarrelled. Naturally, the reader
will ask, what was the necessity of two leaders ? This
was one consequence of leaving such a journey to
private enterprise. Hovell shared the expense, and of
course wished, to share the command. He certainly
took more than his share of inconvenience, for he
now left Mr. Hume to trace up the south-west course ;
while he, with one man, persisted in an insane inten
tion of following up a chain of ponds, leading, goodness
knows where. He was an old sea-captain and no
bushman ; so that when he found himself standing on
the edge of a rocky chasm .he lost no time in returning
to his companions. Hume in the mean time, had met
with a stream at a few miles. This he succeeded in
tracing, though with much difficulty, until, bending
about due west, it. descended rapidly through a narrow
chasm, and poured its waters at right angles into

310 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
another stream. This was about twenty yards wide,
in a beautiful valley, bounded on the west by a per
pendicular range.
It was not until the 26th, that they got through the
pass thus discovered, and by this time they had found
the carts such an impediment, that they resolved to
leave them until their return. They concealed every
thing as well as they could, and then tried to get
through the next range before them. The natives had
told them that they would have no difficulty whatever
in this, as there was a pass close at hand. It certainly
was a pass ; but that was all— a mere footpath, scarcely
wide enough for one person. Worse than this, the
further side was at the foot of a mountain-wall nearly
perpendicular. Of course, there was no resource but to
retrace their steps.
It seemed as if they should never get out of this
valley. They now tried a south direction. At thirteen
miles, they came to the other end, enclosed as usual
by perpendicular walls, washed at the base by the river.
A small opening led them in another direction ; but it
was found to be a mere mountain chasm. There was
only one course left, and that was to try and ascend the
ranges. To their astonishment, they succeeded. There
were little ledges on the mountain sides ; by following
these on a zigzag course, they reached the top on the
29th of October.
The summit of the tableland was broken into little
hills and valleys, with numerous creeks, both deep and
rapid, causing much inconvenience. On the third day,
after skirting a large swamp, they climbed an eminence
rather higher than the rest, and found, to their great
disgust, that they were near a precipitous descent which
formed one of the terminations of the tableland. The
valley below did not give them much insight into the
nature of the country in advance. There was a tract
of level country some ten miles off; but in other
respects the view was interrupted by the lofty moun
tains which surrounded them on every side. The
descent from the range was terrific, and only accom
plished with much difficulty : but they got down at

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 311
last, and found themselves on the bank of a small stream
with rapids in its bed and good pasturage upon its
banks. Hume rested by its waters one day, for both
cattle and horses were much fatigued by their recent
exertions. They imagined now that they had done with moun
tains for a time, because when they crossed the river,
very nice plains and open forest country succeeded. In
the midst of these, they found a strong river, about one
hundred feet wide, with banks of very rich soil, and
evidently liable to frequent inundations. They had not
got their cart now, and as it was too deep to cross ; they
had to trace it down. In a very short distance they
came upon a native ford, and then they crossed with
out difficulty. It was but too eAddent, in a short time,
that they had by no means done with the moun
tains, for they could now see them plain enough and
closing in upon them. On the 4th of November, they
left the banks of the river and shaped their course for
an opening in the mountains, bearing east of south.
This opening was found impracticable, and they were
obliged to return to the river, with the renewed dread
of being again shut in by the mountains. It was
thought better, however, to lose no more time in search
ing for passes, and so they at once attempted the
slope in front of them. In doing so, they made a great
mistake. When they got to the top, with the greatest
difficulty, they found that it was quite separated from
the main range, except by a very narrow neck with
precipitous sides ; and their work had to be done over
again. It was done amid exertions and dangers far sur
passing anything they had met with hitherto ; and the
summit proved to be another piece of tableland, thickly
covered with very large timber. It was the perfect
counterpart ofthe table-mountain they had previously
crossed, and like it, soon terminated in a steep descent.
Before they left it, they saw immediately in front
of them a valley extending in a south-west direction,
about two miles broad, and with a stream in the centre :
beyond the stream was a broken, mountainous country.
There was a remarkable chasm in the midst, backed by

312 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
peaked and jagged hills, whose dark outlines showed
their stern, rocky character.
The descent into the valley was not very easily
accomplished. The animals could with difficulty keep
their feet upon the steep mountain sides. On one
occasion, a stone slipped from the feet of one of the
bullocks, and he rolled over immediately, dragging one
of the men down with him. Fortunately, they were
stopped at some distance by a tree, and this saved both
their lives, though the man was very much hurt. The
party rested for one day on the sides of the stream in
the valley, and then went down its banks to the south
ward. As they proceeded, it became wider and deeper,
and broken by falls : it was nice, easy travelling ; but
far too easy to last in such a country. Their progress
was soon stopped by the mountains which formed the
southern boundary of the valley, and rising in precipi
tous walls on either side of the stream. Messrs. Hovell
and Hume ascended first to see the nature of the ground,
little prepared for the prospect in store for them. When
they were about half-way up and had got above the top
of the valley, they were astounded with the sight which
burst upon their view. Mountains of peaked shape and
covered with snow were seen extending in a circle to the
south and eastward, in a stupendous chain, about twenty-
one miles aAvay. The view was magnificent : below,
the green valley, its rich undulations, and the clear
stream rolling along its pebbly channel ; beyond this,
the valley slopes crowned with dark forest ; and then,
far beyond, the angular outline of dazzling whiteness,
which reflected back the brilliancy of the sun, and
showed an awful contrast with the gloomy, savage gul
lies underneath. A sight like this was worth all the
inconveniences of exploration. To unlock such scenes
to the gaze of men was worth a lifetime of labour —
almost like the scenes of enchantment, delighting the
view of the fairy prince of romance.
This was the first discovery of the Australian Alps
— a name which was immediately applied to them by
Mr. Hume. The party now saw that it would be use
less to try to follow their old course with such obstacles

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 313
as these before them ; and they determined to go fifty
or sixty miles to the westward. At last, they had hit
upon the right course. In a short distance they found
to their satisfaction that the hills to the right had
dwindled down to a very moderate elevation ; but even
there they were not completely done with ravines. On
the 10th of November, they arrived unexpectedly on the
brink of one with precipitous sides, not less than one
thousand feet deep, and running in a north and south
direction. This seemed at first an insurmountable
obstacle ; but, at a mile and a half, they found a path by
which they were enabled to descend, where the walls of
the ravine were broken into hills of moderate elevation.
It was about half a mile broad, and to the southward it
dwindled to a mere chasm. In the ravine they camped
amid a dense scrub. They were under the impression
that the western side of this valley was a range, along
which they could proceed to the southward ; but on
arriving at the summit, found that it was a mere ridge,
almost too narrow for the cattle to cross. From this
point the summits of the Alps were again seen with their
beautiful and dazzling pinnacles, and all around from
west to north was a broken outline of rugged moun
tains, looming one above another, until they faded into
misty outlines in the distance.*
After crossing some minor ranges connected with
this ravine, the explorers at last descended into a
beautiful undulating country, watered by streams which
flowed to the north-west. The only drawback to it was,
that it was slightly boggy ; but in other respects, the
travelling was easy, and a great change for the better
from the terrible ranges. It was still hilly around
them, for the west was the only direction where the
view was not intercepted by lofty mountains. On the
* The party were much tormented about this place by the attacks of a
small fly, which had the same sanguinary tastes as the mosquito, but was far
more annoying and painful in its attacks. Rather smaller than the housefly,
it acts with such celerity that it has no sooner settled on the face or hands
than it inflicts instantaneously a painful wound, which often bleeds subse
quently. It is called by the colonists the kangaroo fly ; and though not very
common, the author can testily that it is one of the most annoying pests of
Australia.

314 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
15th, when they were about six miles from a hill they
had named Battery Mount, they met with a large creek
of water and a chain of ponds, both apparently from the
range and running southward. This led them to a fine
river, not less than eighty yards in breadth, deep and
rapid : its aspect to the explorers appeared beautiful ;
not only because of the splendid verdure on its banks
and the lagoons scattered near, but because it seemed
to them the finest running stream hitherto discovered
in Australia. It was named the Hume, after its dis
coverer. The upper part till retains its first appella
tion ; but the lower part was named the Murray by
Sturt, and by that title alone it is familiarly known.
At first, such a large riArer of course pleased the ex
plorers very much ; but it soon became a subject of
serious embarrassment. The means at their disposal
were utterly inadequate for crossing, so they followed it
down to look for a ford ; but no such thing was to be
found. The further the river flowed, the wider it
became ; it was useless, therefore, to look for a ford in
that direction, and they turned up the stream to cross
near the sources. A journey of about fifteen miles
brought them to where it narrowed to forty yards ; and
there, by means of a hastily constructed wicker boat,
covered with tarpaulin, they crossed in safely with their
baggage and made the cattle swim. On the evening of
the 20th, they left the stream and camped in an open
forest. Four miles from the Murray they came upon
another river, and a boat had again to be constructed.
After extricating themselves from the usual series
of creeks, lagoons, and swamps, which ensued, they
passed in their south-west course over the extremities of
a range of hills. These were a collateral branch of the
great north and south Alpine Chain, and were
terminated on their further side by another fine stream,
Avhich was easily crossed, as the others had been, for
the party were now quite accustomed to such obstacles.
From this river, they advanced between two ranges
of hills over excellent forest : this was gradually rising
towards a high range which lay before them. It was no
use trying to avoid it, so they crossed on the 24th.

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 315
This was the Dividing Range between the waters of the
Murray and the southern streams ; it was a high but
by no means formidable range of hills ; and from its
summit, the Alps and its numerous spurs were visible
to the eastward. To the south-west their course
appeared clear and open, and could not possibly have
presented a greater contrast than it did to the north
side. The grass was everywhere dry and withered ;
there was no water in the creeks, and it seemed as
if it had not rained in this country for months. Want
of water threatened to become a serious inconvenience ;
but in a few miles they met another river, which was
named after Major Ovens.
There was little difficulty in crossing the Ovens, for
the water was so low that it was fordable in many
places : the bottom was pebbly, and the banks rather
higher than those of the two preceding streams they
had passed. From its channel, the route was very
much diversified by hills and plains. Four miles beyond
the Ovens, they ascended a range coming from the
Alpine Chain. One of the snow-capped mountains now
in sight was named the Buffalo. There was a fine level
country to the westward, and to the south-west a high
range. The grass had been recently burnt upon the
plains, and the whole country was very dry ; but they
never wanted water as they were crossing the western
spurs of the Alpine Chain, for there were numerous
creeks and watercourses running down from them.
Until the 1st of December, the diary of the explorers is
but a succession of ascents and descents over ranges, and
across creeks in the valleys.
The views they obtained from the hills showed them
patches of open forest country scattered here and there,
but the general aspect was mountainous. The stone of
the hills was principally granite, forming into piles of
boulders occasionally, which peeped above the scrub
with fantastic singularity at almost every hill. There
were signs of natives in abundance, but none were seen
at first. On the 2nd December they came to a meadow,
watered by a creek, which afforded a much better kind
of travelling than any they had been accustomed to

316 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA,
hitherto ; but they could not go far through it, because
the natives fired the grass in front, and they were
obliged to camp. When the fire had swept out of their
track, they noticed a range of high mountains before
them, with a gap visible to the south-east, which, appa
rently, offered a favourable passage. Towards this
they directed their course^ Having ascended the
ranges, the country improved considerably as they
advanced, though it had that blackened, smoky, wintry
appearance which no one can realize who has not seen
the effect of a bush fire in Australia.
On the 3rd, they came upon another river, with
beautiful grassy woodland country upon its sides. This
was named the Hovell ; but it had been previously
named the Goulburn by Mr. Hume, and that name it
now retains. It was crossed by the explorers on a
natural bridge, in the shape of a large tree, which lay
from bank to bank. The banks were very steep, and
about twelve feet high. As usual, this stream was
surrounded by many creeks and marshes ; and then
another range succeeded, amid agreeable and pictu
resque country, with good soil and grass, very much
baked and parched by the dry weather. A somewhat
lofty range was visible on the further side of the plains,
about twenty miles away ; and in going to it they
crossed another stream, smaller than the Goulburn, and
very muddy. It was called the Muddy Creek. One
would think that such simple names were a great
improvement on the old system of geographical nomen
clature, but, unfortunately, the greater the simplicity
the greater the confusion. There are no less than a
dozen Muddy Creeks in Australia, and as for Emu
Creeks, Reedy Lagoons, and Mounts Misery, they can
be counted by dozens.
The explorers encamped one day by the Muddy
Creek, because the weather was so very oppressive and
hot. There was a range on the further side, and when
they crossed this they had some difficulty in finding
water. There were plenty of stream beds, but all,
without exception, dry. The country was intricate and
broken, with very little good land, except to the west-

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 317
ward, which was slightly better. Fortunately, some
Avater was found, and a larger supply in King Parrot
Creek, a little distance beyond.*
Beyond King Parrot Creek, they ascended a very
high stony range ; and when they had arrived at its
summit they found, to their great disappointment, that
they had to descend again on the south-west side, as
there was no connecting ridge between it and another
range still higher, which lay directly in advance. They
had a good deal of trouble in getting down, and still
more in getting up again, but at last they reached the
top., Here a new difficulty met them, more formidable
indeed than any they had yet encountered. They were
stopped by a scrub so dense that they could scarcely see
ten yards before them. Retreat was out of the question,
after all they had accomplished hitherto, so they set
resolutely to cut a road for themselves through the
trees. While doing so, night overtook them, and they
had to camp where they were, without grass or water.
Their bed might have been pleasant enough but for the
land leeches, which insinuated themselves into every
article of wearing apparel, and caused very serious
inconvenience to the explorers. Next day they gave
up the idea of taking cattle further on this road. They
returned to King Parrot Creek, and Messrs. Hovell
and Hume resolved to proceed on alone to look for a
passage through the ranges. They could not hope,
however, to continue their journey much further,
because they had only five weeks' rations left ; but if
they soon got a passage through the range they hoped
to travel to the south-west for seven days more at least,
and, on their return, to trace the further course of the
Goulburn. Accordingly, on the 9th, Messrs. Hovell and Hume
started, with four days' rations of flour, tea, and sugar.
They commenced ascending the mountain, which was
named Mount Disappointment, and when the summit
* This creek was named after a beautiful parrot which was then seen for
the first time. It is a bird of magnificent plumage, with crimson feathers on
the body, and blue wings, both of gorgeous hue ; and no other colour except a
little black. The name, King Parrot, is variously applied to several birds in
different parts of Australia ; the one described is common.

318 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was reached, tried to descend on the west side. For
two hours they were employed in scrambling on their
hands and knees over bushes and rocks, halting at last
near a spring, very much exhausted by their exer
tions. When they renewed their journey, they met
with a new and painful obstacle. This was the cutting
grass, a plant with leaves four or five feet high and an
inch and a half broad, with edges so finely sharpened as
to inflict a severe wound by even rubbing against them.
This settled the attempt of the explorers in that direc
tion. Uncertain of the road, fatigued, lacerated, and
their clothes torn, they became at length quite unable
to proceed, and therefore returned to their camp on the
creek. The whole party now moved in a more northerly
direction along King Parrot Creek, to try by this
means to escape the range. On the 11th they were
turned back for a time, because the country all round
was on fire : the flaming scrub was more than they
dare think of facing. On the 12th, however, they
came again to the range, and ascended at a point a good
deal to the north of Mount Disappointment. This was
the proper route at last. After a march of eighteen
miles, they came to a country of more promising appear
ance, and they camped that night on a watercourse,
named Sunday Creek. They were not, however, quite
done with the ranges ; they had to cross several more.
The last appeared to be the dividing chain, and was
named the Jullian Range, after a friend of Mr. Hovell.
When they had crossed this range, it seemed as if
all their climbing difficulties were" over for a time, and
they were able to proceed next day twenty miles in a
sourtherly direction. They were now approaching the
level lands round Port Phillip. The first part of their
journey was through meadow land, while to the south
ward the country appeared level, but interspersed here
and there with hills of a conical form. The soil was
excellent. From a hill, named Bland's Mount, they
had a long search for water, which was obtained at last
by digging. A mountain, near where the well was
sunk, was called Mount Hodometer, from the circum-

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 319
stance of an instrument of that description having been
broken there. From this hill, alternate plains and
forest were seen, extending as far as the eye could
reach, forming a most beautiful view of swelling downs,
with clothed trees, and gentle hills, looking, amid the
gorgeous hues of sunset, like a lovely and deserted
paradise. The whole country seemed suffering severely from
the aridity of the season, and the explorers had much to
endure in consequence. They found a small quantity of
water in a creek, running to the southward, which they
named Relief Creek. Four miles beyond this they
came to another southerly stream, named Broughton's
Creek. The waters were not running, but the banks
were from fifty to sixty feet high, showing it to be
liable to great floods. From this they travelled across
extensive plains, on which there was scarcely a tree.
At twenty miles, they came upon a river with splendid
country upon its banks. Leaving it next day, on their
usual south-west course, they saw before them a strange
appearance on the level horizon, which, at first they
took to be burning grass. It was the sea. With great
joy they altered their course to the southward, and then
travelled some distance along the sea-shore. The
country near the beach was a splendid plain, between
what is known as the harbours of Geelong and the
Werribee, a river which Mr. Hume had named the
Arndell. A great change has come upon the place
since then, though only forty years ago. The plains
are still there, and the river, and the sea, but across
the track of the explorers, amid that solitary plain, a
railway now runs, and the lonely hills often re-echo
with the shrill steam-whistle. There are townships, too,
scattered here, and pretty villas for retiring settlers,
under the shade of the Youyang and Anake hills. The
sea could no longer be mistaken ; its surface is covered
with many large ships of different nations, which sail
to and fro over the waves which seemed so lovely to
Mr. Hume as he gazed across them. From the top of
Youyang, Hume gazed upon as fair a scene as ever met
the sight of an explorer, but lonely as the grave.

320 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Barely forty years after, I have enjoyed the same view ;
but it was a thing of life. At the opposite extremities
of the plain were two large and populous cities, look
ing, in the clear atmosphere of Australia, by far too
important and extensive to be the work of two hundred
years, Could any one have told Hume what a future
he was thus preparing for the place he would indeed
have been proud of the position in which his discoveries
that day had placed him.
On the 17th, they proceeded in a direction about
north-north-west, and at four miles, arrived at a stream,
named Kennedy's Creek. This was afterwards found
to be a short chain of ponds. The party rested here,
and this was their furthest point, for they intended to
commence their return next day. Some natives were
seen, but not very peaceably inclined. They tried, on
two occasions, to surprise and spear some of the men ;
but eventually they were induced to lay down their
arms and come to the camp. The explorers were soon
tired of them, for they could give but little informa
tion, and they were inquisitive, troublesome, and great
thieves. Messrs. Hovell and Hume had been desirous
of taking their horses, to examine the country, but the
conduct of these people, and the great number of them,
made them think it very unsafe to separate the party.
Messrs. Hovell and Hume then each marked a tree
with their initials, at a place about two miles from the
beach, and then they returned. The observations made
by them, about a place which has since become so
famous, were very few. They remarked that the
plains were splendid in quality, and varied with ridges
of volcanic rock. Hume had no doubt that they had
seen Port Phillip, and Hovell maintained that it was
Western Port, and for a long time it was considered
uncertain what part of the coast they had seen .
On the 18th December, they commenced their
return, keeping to their outward tracks within a mile
or so. They crossed the Goulburn, twenty miles below
their outward route, where the river was deep, and
seventy yards Avide, but without any perceptible current.
They easily found a ford to cross it. The whole country

THE FIRST OVERLANDERS. 321
to the west of their route, from Hume's Pass as far as
the Hovell, consisted of a broken surface, and beyond,
there were ranges of considerable elevation. On the
1st January, they had to commence making forced
marches, as their provisions were nearly exhausted. On
the 8 th, the last were served out, and this consisted of
no more than six pounds, of flour to each man, with
one hundred and fifty miles of uninhabited country still
before them. They managed, however, to eke out this
small supply with the aid of fish caught in the rivers,
and by shooting a kangaroo from time to time ; so that
altogether they were not badly off, if their position is
compared with that of other explorers. When they
returned to where they had left the cart, everything
was found in good order, and the supplies of salt meat
untouched. This was all the more singular, as there
was evidence that the natives had been there, and had
cut a piece out of the tarpaulin. The cattle were very
much exhausted, but they managed to bring the cart
along, and after an absence of sixteen weeks the party
arrived at Mr. Hume's station, Lake George, on the
18th January. Their expedition was, without doubt,
one of the most important made in Australia, as far as
the value of the country discovered is concerned. The
New South Wales Government fully appreciated this,
and Messrs. Hume and Hovell were both rewarded by a
grant of land of twelve hundred acres each.
Owing to the promising description of Geelong
given by the explorers, a settlement was made by the
Government at Western Port. It was never either
successful or even populous, and was soon afterwards
withdrawn by orders of' the home Government. Shortly
afterwards, Mr. Hovell made an extensive examination
of the country in the immediate vicinity. He passed
between Bass's and Wright's River, where he found
excellent land. He then tried to cross the immense
swamp to the north of the port, but found it quite
impassable. He kept on his journey, however, until
he arrived at that part of Port Phillip where they had
arrived on the previous journey, but then were obliged
to turn back.
VOL. I. Y

322

CHAPTER XYI.
CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES.
Cunningham's discoveries — Oxley discovers the Brisbane River — Cunningham
discovers the Darling Downs — The colony of Western Australia esta
blished — Consequent explorations — Stirling — Roe — Preston — Dale —
Wilson — Hilton — Bannister — Moore, &c. — Visitors to the South Coast.
The journey recorded in the last chapter was, as it
were, a sequel to the discoveries made by Oxley to the
south-west of the Blue Mountains. His journey to the
north-west had not been followed up ; and though the
Liverpool Plains had been described as one of the most
fertile tracts in New South Wales, no path to them had
been discovered except over the precipitous chasms of
the coast range. Yet it was easily seen that a level
road ought to exist between Bathurst and the western
slopes of the mountains ; but six years had elapsed and
nothing was done. A distinguished botanist, named
Allan Cunningham, who was employed in scientific
researches on behalf of the home Government, had
made some discoveries to the north of Bathurst. He
had reached a moderate-sized river, flowing down from
the east side of the range, about sixty miles from the
settlement. He had met with no difficulty in proceed
ing thus far, as the intermediate country consisted of
low forest hills, swampy valleys, and small watercourses.
hemmed in to the east by the rugged Blue Mountains.
This success encouraged him to try a longer journey.
He took with him, from Bathurst, five pack-horses and
five men, with provisions for ten weeks, and on the
15th April, 1823, he started, intending to explore from
the Cudgeegong River as far as the Liverpool Plains,

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 323
On reaching the stream above named, Mr. Cunning
ham explored it for some distance to the eastward, as
far as the rocky hills which lined its bank would
permit him. The Cudgeegong is a mere mountain
stream, and seldom running. In its upper part it is a
chain of picturesque water-holes, whose connecting
channel is wholly choked up with reeds. Beyond this,
Cunningham found that it flowed through extensive
and open bare plains, with a uniform width of twelve
yards, Avell marked by the dense growth of reeds. The
plains were several miles in length, well covered with
grass, growing on a rich, black soil. It was only a
year since the Cudgeegong had been discovered, and yet
the explorers found that the plains were already occu
pied by the herds of an enterprising squatter. Cunning
ham now struck to the northward. He descended into
a grassy valley, and for a long time subsequently his
journey was over a succession of wet valleys and
dividing ridges. The general disposition of these ridges
rendered the journey very fatiguing, especially as the
ascents were exceedingly steep, rocky, and difficult.
On the 30th, their progress was nearly stopped by these
obstacles. One of the ranges, whose slope was a dense
scrub of honeysuckle, was broken into very stony,
abrupt precipices. Perpendicular ridges, faced with
rock, hung over ravines of considerable depth, and
occupied the country from north to south-east. By
dint of much labour he attained the summit of a grassy
range to the west. From this he could see a country
of frightful irregularity to the eastward, and quite
close to them. To the north, however, the view was
much more consoling. It. extended forty or fifty miles
over a very promising land, though slightly hilly. It
terminated at the base of a range of mountains lying
east and west. This, Cunningham believed was the
southern boundary of the Liverpool Plains. He had
heard of this range before. Lieutenant Lawson, one of
the discoverers of the pass across the Blue Mountains.
had reached its base on the preceding year, and had
considered them to be quite impassable, and lying con
siderably to the north of the plains. Cunningham y 2

324 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
thought differently, and it was his intention now to
satisfy himself on the matter.
He continued onward over the fertile tract in front.
The ranges obliged him at first to keep along their
base to the west, over low, grassy hills and vales, thinly
timbered with eucalyptus. Suddenly the country be
came open and very rich, with the surface nearly
level, slightly wooded, and declining to the north-west.
The explorers went in this direction for five miles.
They would willingly have followed it further, but that
their course had been already too much to the west, so
they struck north into a rocky, sterile range of bare
hills, with small creeks draining to the westward, lined
with a thick honeysuckle scrub. This difficult kind of
travelling lasted until the 6th May, when they descended
to a tract of good country, watered by a stream, whose
winding channel could be traced by the particularly
dark verdure of the swamp-oak ( Casuarina paludosa) on
its banks several miles in a north-east direction. This
small river had been discovered by Lieutenant Lawson,
and named the Goulburn. Its channel was sixty yards
wide, with watermarks twelve feet above the level of
the small stream which was then running, amid a forest
of reeds, towards the south-east. It evidently took its
rise in the south face of the mountain ranges, and
watered some beautiful open grazing country upon its
banks. It consisted of clear green levels, or small plains,
with grassy hills of the most easy acclivity, bounded by
ridges of forest land, thinly clothed with timber.
Leaving the Goulburn River (now called Morul
Creek), their course to the north-east led them over a
spur from the range, with another river like the
Goulburn. This stream had also been discovered by
Lieutenant Lawson, and named the Wemyss. The ex
plorers continued along the river until they reached the
broken narrow valleys of its sources. They halted then,
and Mr. Cunningham went on to the range to look for
some available road, and to ascertain whether the Liver
pool Plains were visible upon the north side of the hills.
It was with no small difficulty that he penetrated into
the centre of this formidable barrier. He crossed nu-

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 325
merous streamlets proceeding from steep walled ravines
around him forming foaming mountain rivulets. The
summit of Mount M'Arthur was at last reached, and there
a beautiful view rewarded all his labours. The country
to the south-west was open plains, and so also was that
to the south-east. Between them there were grassy
spots, like green gems set in a sea of dark brown
woodland, dotted over with blacker looking clumps of
trees. To the north the scene was far more encouraging.
There was a most extensive view of plains, which, from
the dry colour of the grass, and absence of timber, one
might have supposed to be a desert. The greater body
of this open space lay to the north-north-west, from
which narrow strips of white ran into the timber here
and there upon their edges, almost like a tidal sea. A
few detached mounds of a conical or rounded figure
were scattered on the greater main patches of plain,
beyond which the level continued until it was lost in
the haze. The rock of the range was a compact basalt,
disposed in cubical masses.
Although there appeared no difficulty in passing
along the winding declivities of the northern face of the
mountains, the ascent from the encampment had been
so steep and precipitous, as to preclude all hopes of
taking the pack-horses over. To the east the ranges
looked loAver, and Cunningham resolved to trace the
south side in that direction in search of a pass. After
pursuing an easterly course for five days, during which
they managed to travel over thirty-five miles of very
severe hilly ground, all progress was stopped by the
mountain ranges. The lateral spurs had become bluff
perpendicular rocks, which formed a chain of deep pre
cipitous ravines. The journey was, of course, one of
a very arduous kind, because it lay at right angles to
the lateral chain of mountains. Yet it led to some im
portant discoveries. From Morul Creek they met with
no less than nineteen creeks, all of which had a south
east course into the open country, and extensive flood
marks on their banks.
Having failed in their attempts eastward, Cunning
ham was determined to try to the westward. He

326 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
descended south to the open forest, until he attained
such a distance from the lateral spurs as enabled him to
travel with ease and despatch. They reached the
Wemyss three weeks after they had first forded it,
and three days subsequently came back to their camp
upon Morul Creek. The provisions were now con
siderably reduced, and so were the men and horses, but,
nevertheless, Cunningham was determined to employ
seven days more in exploring in a north-westerly direc
tion, where the blackened ranges seemed to extend in
an almost unbroken line.
On the 2nd June, they started on their new route
over a rising open forest, but observing upon an advance
of a mile a most evident break of the main ranges to the
north, they were ordered to alter their course in
that direction. This led them up a narrow, but rich
valley, to an irregular series of lofty mountain ranges,
peeping over one another as far as the eye could see.
They were then obliged to commence climbing again.
After a laborious journey, not exceeding seven miles,
their progress was stopped by a narrow deep ravine.
From this point they could see the country from east to
north-west, and it was nothing but a collection of bold
lofty ranges, in a vast series, one behind another, ter
minating in steep precipitous heads, which overhung
deep yawning glens and sharp rocky ravines. Cunning
ham almost gave up all hope at this prospect. The
country seemed quite closed to the westward, and he
determined to quit its blackened crags altogether.
There was only one direction untried, and that was the
south-west. There was an open valley in that direction,
and it was thought that something better might be seen
to the northward from thence. They descended to it
through an open grazing forest. It was in sight of
another bold, heavy lateral range bounding the valley,
which was more promising than any recess they had
yet explored. But the valley did not continue open
for long. It soon became intricate and winding, with
high precipices on each side. In despair, Cunningham
ascended the range to see its further course. The view
overwhelmed him with joy and surprise. It was a pass,

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 327
and they were on a fair and quite practicable road to
the Liverpool Plains.
Upon proceeding to examine it, he found that from
the level of the valley the ascent was gentle and
gradual to the highest part of the gap. The declivity
on the northern side, although less moderate, was not
bad travelling, and only a mile from the wooded country
at its base. This was watered by rivulets which ran
northwards. The plains were seen from the mountain
to be terminated to the north by another range running
east and west. Cunningham did not go further than
this gap, which, for obvious reasons, he named Pandora's
Pass. From that point he returned.
In going back to the Cudgeegong, the explorers kept
a much more westerly course along the base of the range,
which now took an extensive sweep to the southwards.
The country in that direction was like all the higher
slopes of the western side of the tableland, fertile in
patches of copse, well watered plains, and exceedingly
boggy in wet weather. The rains were very heavy in
the latter part of their journey, and they suffered incon
venience accordingly ; sometimes being delayed for
hours in crossing half a mile of ground. On the 27th
June, they arrived at Bathurst, where they learned that
rain had fallen during the previous six weeks upon the
plains, and that the Macquarrie River had been flooded
so considerably as to inundate the wheat lands on the
upper bank — a circumstance never before witnessed
since the establishment of the settlement. As a matter
of course, as soon as it was known that an available
route had been found to the Liverpool Plains, no time
was lost by the colonists in making use of them for
pastoral purposes.
In the same year, 1823, an expedition was sent out
under the command of Lieutenant Oxley, to survey Port
Curtis, Moreton Bay, and Port Bowen, with a view to
report upon the best site for a convict establishment. He
sailed in the Mermaid cutter — a vessel in which King
had conducted his first three surveys — and after a tedious
passage, anchored off Port Curtis on the 5th November..
The examination of this harbour proved it to be a very.

328 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
unfavourable place for a settlement — at least near the
sea. South of Gatcombe Head, Oxley discovered a
rapid mountain stream, which received the name of the
Boyne. The entrance was nearly blocked up by sand
banks, but at high water there was about twelve feet in
the channel. It was navigable for large boats about four
miles further, and then the river became fresh and unnavi-
gable. The country, on either shore, was low forest land
of good quality, but very stony. The intermediate flats
were composed of a good light sandy soil, apparently
much flooded, since, between this point and the entrance,
flood marks were observed twenty-five feet above
the usual level. The stream was examined for twelve
miles further, by dragging the whale-boat over the
rapids which separated very picturesque reaches of
Avater. Much rich soil was seen, and the hills, though
very stony, were covered with grass. The floods
appeared to rise here between forty or fifty feet, and
all the flats bore marks of inundation. No fresh water
was found except in the river, which, when confined
within its natural banks, is in some places a furlong wide ;
the other banks were much wider, but both iusufficient
to afford a channel to the great accumulation of waters
which drained at times from the neighbouring moun
tains. The hills were granite and blue slate, and the
timber upon them was small and perfectly useless, with
the exception of a few large gum trees on the flooded
lands. Altogether, the report was unfavourable to
Port Curtis as a settlement.
The next place examined was Moreton Bay. One
river had been discovered in it by Captain Flinders,
but the west shore had only been cursorily examined,
and Oxley determined to trace that portion very care
fully. The first day's survey terminated above Red
Cliff Point. The shores thus far were low, and
covered with mangroves, off which dreary unwhole
some mud flats extended. Red Cliff Point was an
exception. The water there was found to be deep
within a short distance of the shore, and the country
around an open forest. A few miles behind to the west
the country became Ioav and wet, but soon rising into

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 329
open forest hills. There was no want of permanent
fresh water, though not in streams ; and there was an
inlet lined with good timber, in which the drooping
branches of the graceful Moreton Bay pine {Araucaria)
held a conspicuous place. When Oxley resumed his
examination on the second day, he found the tide
sweeping the vessel up a considerable opening. The
muddiness of the water, and the abundance of fresh
water shells, showed that they were entering a large
river, and in a few hours the water had become fresh,
while no diminution had taken place in the size of the
stream. At sunset they had proceeded twenty miles up
the river, which was named after Sir Thomas Brisbane.
The scenery was very beautiful. The banks were alter
nately hilly and level, but not flooded. The soil was
of the finest description, supporting an abundance of
timber of large size, among which a magnificent species
of pine was in great abundance. Up to this point the
river was navigable for vessels drawing sixteen feet of
water, and the tide rose five feet during the night.
The next day the vessel proceeded thirty miles further,
the river still of uniform width, and clothed with even
finer timber. The boat's crew were, however, so much
exhausted by the work under a tropical sun, that Oxley
could not proceed further than a point named Termina
tion Hill ; and even here the tide influence raised the
water four feet six. This was .seventy miles from the
entrance. Near this Oxley ascended a hill to take a
view of the country around before returning. The
prospect was very extensive. From the south to the
north-west the country declined considerably in eleva
tion, and had the appearance of extended plains, formed
of undulating, park-like hills and vales. The river could
be traced for thirty or forty miles further, and it was
conjectured to be navigable for boats for the whole of
that distance. Oxley was of opinion that it would be
found to drain the large central lake, which he con
sidered he had discovered in 1818 ; but at any rate he
asserted that it was the largest fresh- water river in New
South Wales.
This discovery led to the occupation of Moreton Bay

330 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
as a penal settlement, and the town of Brisbane, which
was then founded, now forms the capital of the new
colony of Queensland. It should be mentioned that
Oxley partly owed this discovery to information received
from a shipwrecked mariner. While the Mermaid was
at Port Curtis, a number of natives were seen, and
among them a white man. The boat was immediately
sent ashore, and while it approached the beach, the
savages showed the greatest signs of joy, dancing and
embracing the white man, who was nearly as wild as
they. He was perfectly naked, and covered all over
with white and red paint. He soon told his story. His
name was Thomas Pamphlet. He had left Sydney on
the 21st of the preceding March, with three others, in
an open boat, intending to procure cedar from the Five
Islands, about fifty miles south of Port Jackson. The
boat Avas driven out to sea by a gale of wind, and the
crew suffered fearfully. They were twenty-one days
without water (!), and one of them died of thirst in the
interval. At length the boat was wrecked upon More-
ton Island. The three men had travelled to the place
where Pamphlet was found, and about six weeks pre
viously had left to prosecute their journey towards
Sydney. Pamphlet had become so foot-sore, that he
returned to the natives, who treated him with great
kindness. Of the other two, one had not since been
heard of, but the second was still with the tribe, and
was afterwards recovered by Oxley. Both the survi
vors concurred in a story of a large river falling into the
south end of Moreton Bay ; and this led Oxley to make
his discovery of the Brisbane. In addition to this infor
mation, Pamphlet was able to afford some interesting
particulars about the customs of the natives, to whose
kindness and hospitality he owed his life.
It was not now in the power of the New South
Wales Government to continue exploration at the
public expense, especially as the country already dis
covered was more than the colonists were able to use ;
and private individuals were continually adding to the
area by small excursions beyond the limits of their runs.
Still, the further exploration of the Brisbane River was

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 331
a subject on which everyone was anxious to know some
thing more. In the absence of any expedition by sea,
a journey from Liverpool Plains seemed the only way
of tracing it on the land side ; but this plan, though the
least expensive and the most desirable, was beyond the
means of any private individual. Mr. A, Cunningham
was still employed in Australia as botanical collector for
the King's garden at Kew, but owing to other engage
ments,, he was not able to attend to the matter until
nearly three years had elapsed. In 1827, he equipped
an expedition to explore for five months the unknown
country on the west side of the Dividing Range be
tween Pandora's Pass and Moreton Bay. By this means
he hoped to add extensively to the knowledge of the
Australian flora, and to settle the question of the sources
of the Brisbane.
He started from the Upper Hunter on the 30th
April, with a party of six men and eleven horses.
After crossing the Dividing Range, at a mean elevation
of 3080 feet, he pursued his journey northerly, through
an uninteresting forest country, on the east side of the
Liverpool Plains. This part of Australia had been
recently exposed to a considerable drought, conse
quently the water was very scarce, and great difficulties
were experienced in advancing. On the 11th May,
they crossed, in latitude 31° 2', Mr. Oxley's track made in
1818, in his journey easterly to Port Macquarrie._ It
being too rocky at this point to reach the Peel River,
Mr. Cunningham continued to the north through a
barren but densely timbered country, indifferently
watered, and traversed by low arid ridges of argillaceous
ironstone and clay slate. The land slowly rose as they
advanced, and at forty miles a branch of the Peel was
reached, whose height above the sea was 1900 feet.
On the 19th May, they passed the 30th parallel of lati
tude, and then descended, from stony hills to the head of
a beautiful well-watered valley, affording abundance of
the richest pasturage, and bounded on both sides by a
bold and elevated rocky range. They followed this
fertile vale about eleven miles northerly, to its terminal
tion at the left bank of a large river. This was

332 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
supposed to be the Peel. It seemed to dram a vast
tract of rugged mountains to the eastward, evidently a
part of the coast range, which still maintained its stern,
repulsive character.
On quitting the river, the change from fertility to
barrenness was very marked. Their course was north
erly, between the 150th and 151st meridian of longi
tude, and a sandy desolate country, the very opposite of
the smiling valley they had left. After fourteen miles,
the land began to improve : there was less timber, and
more grass, and occasionally open plains. The view
was encumbered by thinly wooded ridges ; but in lati
tude 29° 10' all the hills to the west terminated, and a
level open expanse burst upon the view. It dipped to
the north-west, and in that direction the land was densely
wooded ; but to the north the country was more open,
and all the high land was on the eastern side of their
route. Hitherto they had suffered much for want of
water, but here they rested at a rocky creek. When
they continued their journey, the wooded land in ad
vance was not found so pleasant or fertile a tract as at
a distance it seemed. It was a sandy, barren waste of
low ironbark and other scrub, which cost both men and
horses great exertions to work their way through. In
the midst of this scrub, Cunningham was agreeably
surprised to find a large river, with fine still reaches in
its bed. The great weakness of the party prevented Cunning
ham from trying to force his Avay through the scrub any
longer, so he turned to the eastward along the stream.
But even with the aid of the river water, the journey
was most distressing. They had to struggle through a
desert waste for many miles, with thinly wooded sand
stone hills at intervals. After a journey of eighty
miles without grass, the country improved, and from
a ridge which they reached on the 5th June, they saw
open downs of vast extent before them, reaching to the
base of a lofty range of mountains. These were named
the Darling Downs. The great plain presented. a won
drous extent of waving grass, whitened by the summer
weather. The horizon was the only boundary, except

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 333
when in the misty distance the delicate outlines of the
mountains could be traced. The numerous swelling un
dulations caused deep ponds of water to collect on the
surface, which would have been otherwise arid. These
were supported by streams from the high lands, which,
when united, form tributaries to the Condamine River
which flows through the centre of these downs,
banked on every side by rich black soil. Cunningham
observed, as he advanced, a succession of heavily tim
bered ridges in the north and north-west, extending to
the eastern high range.
Some large patches of land to the north of the downs
were named Peel's Plains, and beyond these the country
was wooded. To the south and south-east the open tract
received the name of Canning's Plains. Cunningham's
most northern point was in lat. 28° 10', long. 152° 7',
about seventy-five miles west of the penal settlement,
which was by that time established at the new town of
Brisbane. His camp was in a valley 1877 feet above
the sea level, and from it he noticed a remarkable excava
tion in the eastern range, which seemed likely to afford
a practicable passage to the eastward.
On the 10th June, they left their camp to return to
the southward, and travelled over Canning's Plains.
These were succeeded by an uninteresting forest of red
gum, until, on the 18th, they reached the borders of a
mountainous country of granite and quartz. The
journey was now very fatiguing, from one treeless rocky
ridge to another. At length they reached an open
scrubby heath, with interspersed swamps and no trees.
This was a tableland, gradually ascending as they
travelled, until in lat. 28° 45', Ion. 151° 59', they were
on a plain nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea.
Notwithstanding this elevation, the view was very much
circumscribed. Still higher ranges towered above them
to the north-east.
On the 26th June, their progress to the south was
arrested by a wild and frightful region, so rocky and
precipitous, that it was useless to think of travelling
across it. Reluctantly, they were obliged to steer to the
westward, and with difficulty reached a lower level.

334 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
They then proceeded to the south-west, by such stages as
the reduced state of the horses permitted, and reached
the Dumaresque, fifty miles nearer to its sources, at
an altitude of 1040 feet. On the 9th July, having
traversed in a south-western direction a very rough and
rocky country, they came back to their former track.
They soon discovered that the first river they had met
was not the Peel. It was formed by the junction of
other streams from the eastward, and now Avas named
the Gwydir. This made the third important stream
discovered on this journey, the others being the Duma
resque, and the Barwon or Upper Darling, which was
crossed on the Darling Downs.
To the south of the Dumaresque they met with a
series of elevated rocky ridges, considerably more than
1000 feet high. They were grassy, and timbered with
gum trees of the usual description. At the close of the
second day, after leaving the Dumaresque, they had
traversed ranges which showed them a level wooded
country extending to the Liverpool Plains. These
were now visible at a distance of forty miles. After a
severe march through a barren forest for thirty miles,
they arrived at Barrow's Valley, discovered by Oxley.
This, Cunningham thought, was occasionally laid under
water by the Field's River, which they had met in the
adjacent forest meandering to the north-west. Barrow's
Valley contained gum trees of enormous size; and
though this was on the west side of the range, the allu
vial grounds seemed to produce the herbage of the
Hawkesbury River. Beyond this the country was bar
ren and sandy for twenty-seven miles, and not more than
900 feet above the sea level. It terminated on the north
margin of the Liverpool Plains, which the explorers
crossed for twenty-five miles without finding water, as
the season had been extremely dry. On the 28th July,
they recrossed the ranges at Pandora's Pass, and after
an absence of thirteen weeks, during which they had
travelled 800 miles, they reached a station on the
Hunter. The discovery of the Darling DoAvns was hailed by
the colonists as of the utmost importance ; but of course

CUNNINGHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 335
it would be useless, comparatively, for a long time,
unless some practicable route were found from Brisbane
through the range. With such a road this fine tract of
pastoral country would be only seventy miles from the
nearest settlement, while at present it was over 400.
The gap in the ranges, seen in the distance by Cun
ningham, seemed to be so promising, that he went the
following year from Brisbane to explore it. He was
entirely successful ; in fact, the discovery of passes seems
to have been his lucky point. The gap is a very re
markable one, having precipices of sandstone almost
4000 feet high on either side. It has required very little
work to make it an available road, and is now the
main line of communication between the Downs and
Brisbane. In the following year, 1829, he again made a voyage
to Moreton Bay, to continue his botanical researches.
In an excursion to the north-west he explored the Bris
bane to its sources ; and it need hardly be said he did
not find that it came from a central lake. During six
weeks he traced its principal branch through a diver
sified country as far as lat. 26° 52', until it ended in a
chain of very shallow stagnant ponds. The river
Originated on the east side of the Dividing Range ; its
chief sources being in the elevated lands, lying almost
on the coast line, between the parallels of 26° and 27°.
The main range continues to the north in an unbroken
chain, so as to prevent a road being made from there
into the interior, as the mean elevation is 4000 feet.
Cunningham's Pass is the only opening between the
parallels of 26° and 27°, or for nearly 250 miles.
We come now to that most important part of Aus
tralian exploration which commences with the names
of Sturt and Mitchell. In order, however, not to inter
rupt their narratives, I mention now some explorations
in Western Australia, and on the south coast, which
took place about this time. In 1828, Captain Stirling,
who had discoA7ered Brisbane Downs or Maneiro Plains,
was employed in H.M.S. Success, surveying the coast of
Western Australia, from King George's Sound up to
Swan River. While doing so he had many opportuni-

336 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
ties of seeing the interior, which he thought more
highly of than any one has done since. His report led
to the establishment of a colony at Swan River.
Captain Stirling was appointed Lieut.-Governor, with
a grant of 100,000 acres of land ; Thomas Peel, Esq.,
one ofthe Commissioners, was to receive 250,000 acres,
on condition of his taking out 400 emigrants. Under
these circumstances a settlement was formed on the
Swan, and Captain Stirling founded the town of Perth.
The first surveys in the neighbourhood of the new
capital soon led to the discovery of other rivers be
sides the Swan ; but the explorations did not tend
very much to raise the estimation of the colonists for the
land of their adoption. After what has been said about
the physical geography of this portion of the coast, very
little need be stated as to the nature of the soil. It is
a level flat with a little limestone between the tableland
and the sea ; and the plateau is of the usual ferruginous
sandstone. Many streams Aoav down from the higher
ground, the most of which unite with the Swan. This
river spreads out its tributaries in almost a semicircle
from the mouth ; but none of them are navigable, and
very few contain permanent water. The river valleys
are the only fertile soil of this colony, for the plateau
from which they flow, though splendidly timbered,
render it quite unfit for pastoral purposes, except in small
patches. Before these facts were fully ascertained, a
great deal of time and money had to be expended in
exploration; for it will be easily seen that such a
country was not a favourable field for geographical re
search. It would be impossible to. particularize all the
discoveries which were immediately consequent upon
the settlement, especially as the material for the pur
pose is of the most scanty and meagre kind. A few
names and dates are, in fact, all that can be procured
on the subject, and even these are of very questionable
authenticity. Captain Bannister was the first explorer to find an
overland route from Swan River to King George's
Sound, where a settlement was formed almost as soon
as that of Perth. The line of road lay across the

DISCOVERIES IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 337
sourees of many streams from the tableland, but not
one was of importance, neither was the country good.
In speaking thus of such an extensive line of country,
no doubt many colonists of Western Australia will think
the judgment more unfavourable than the facts warrant ;
but I take my statements from those Avho know the
land well, and who have had an opportunity of com
paring what they saw with more favoured regions on
the east and south side of the continent. More than
once I have heard old colonists from the west say that
even the grassy country would be regarded as sandy
heath in other colonies, but I make no such interpretation
in speaking of the plains called grassy by the colonists
themselves. It is, at least, a significant fact, that only
a very small portion of the colony is available for stock,
as much probably from want of grass as of water. Let it,
however, be added that no colony has shown such
energy in making efforts to overcome its geographical
defects : no colony has been so constantly zealous on
the subject of exploration, and among all explorers those
of Western Australia undoubtedly take the first rank.
In 1829, a Mr, Wilson explored a great deal of the
back country on the south coast, between the 117th and
118th meridian of longitude, and about the 35th of
latitude. He started from the Hay, near its junction
Avith Lake Mairet, and by travelling north-west he dis
covered the River Denmark. This he traced past
Forth Falls to its junction with the Macquoid, or Kent
River, and following up this to a rich valley, returned
through well-grassed country to Parry's Inlet, a little to
the west of where he set out.
In October, 1830, a Mr. Dale, whose name was very
much connected with the early exploration of the colony,
started on a journey to the east from the township of
Kelmscott, on the Canning or Upper Swan. Passing
Mount Dale, he journeyed over elevated country with
few creeks, until he reached the River Avon, which was
followed up past the site of the present town of York.
Here again he went to the east, and discovered all the
intervening country between the Avon and Mount
Caroline, in about longitude 117° 29'. From this point
VOL. I. z

338 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
he went to the south, over elevated downs, clear of
timber, and then again turned westward,_ passing the
Avon, near Beverley, and returning upon his old tracks.
During this journey he found a cave in the sandstone,
with some remarkable drawings made in colours by the
natives. Similar caverns have been since found. The
drawings are symbolical, and amongst other things
contain the red hand which is so often seen upon the
Buddhist monuments in India. Others will be described
is this work. In 1831, Sir James Stirling and Lieu
tenant Roe, (the former companion of King, and then
and now the surveyor-general of the colony,) were
occupied in H. M. S. Sulphur, in surveying the south
coast. When near Irwin Inlet, Lieutenant Preston left
the Sulphur in a boat, and proceeded towards Perth. A
little beyond Point D'Entrecasteaux, the boat was
wrecked, and he had to make his way on foot. He was
thus able to ascertain how many, and what streams
emptied on to the coast as far as Bass River. None of
any importance were found.
The longest and most important surveys were made
by Lieutenant Roe. He went a good deal to the east,
on the summit of the tableland, discovering many salt
lakes, which since have been found to form a marked
feature of the upper portion of the plateau, which in
other places is almost an unbroken scrub. It will seem
from the manner in which these expeditions have been
sketched, that they have not received that, prominence
which has been assigned to explorations in other parts
of the continent. A glance at the map will show, how
ever, that they are only slight contributions to the
knowledge of Australian geography, and the whole were
merely local particulars about a territory, the general
features of which have been already sketched, and will
often reappear in subsequent parts of these volumes.
The names of Moore, Bunbury, Wilson, Collier, and
Hilman are among those who principally explored all
that was to be explored in the immediate neighbourhood
of the Swan. Mr. Moore gave his name to an im
portant stream which joined the Swan from the north ;
and with such trifling facts as this, 'all that remains of

DISCOVERIES ON THE SOUTH COAST. 339
the various expeditions amounts to a mere record of
names. The south coast was not without its occasional
visitants since the first survey of Captain Flinders.
Captain Dillon, the well known discoverer of the re
mains of La Perouse, visited Port Lincoln and Encoun
ter Bay. His object was commercial, and he remained
in the neighbourhood three months. Captain Sutherland
also visited Port Lincoln on a sealing voyage, in 1819.
He remained at Kangaroo Island seven months, and gave
a full report of his residence there. Richard Wooton,
and Frederick Hamborg, one a steward and the other a
mate of a sealing vessel, remained on this coast a short
time. The evidence of the first was not important, but
Hamborg states that he entered Spalding Cove, and
found two streams of water. Captain Gould also visited
the same portion ofthe coast in 1827 and 1828. It was
not however until 1836 that a settlement was made at
St. Vincent's Gulf, and in the meantime Kangaroo Island
had become inhabited to some extent by runaway con
victs and seamen. With these exceptions, the south
coast remained as lonely and deserted as when found by
the first explorations of Flinders and Baudin. The day
was however drawing near when it was made the home
of Europeans, for this the way was prepared by the dis
coveries of Sturt and Mitchell, which will now be nar
rated in the ensuing chapters.

z 2

340

CHAPTER XVII.
STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING.
The Inland Lake theory — Sturt sent to explore the Macquarrie — Mount Harris
—Is unable to trace the river — The Darling — Return to Mount Harris —
Explores the Castlereagh — Return.
Readers must now take a retrospective glance at what
the settlers of 1829 thought of Australia. Though
discovery along the coast had nearly terminated, the
interior was still an enigma. • What little was known
only served to increase the perplexity. Large rivers
had been crossed. Whence they came was known ;
where they went was unknown. The coast explora
tions did not solve the difficulty. The mouth of a large
river was a thing as yet unnoticed by any explorer.
What then were the settlers to suppose ? They imagined
the neighbourhood of Sydney gave them a clue. The
range of hills which bears the name of the Blue
Mountains left but a narrow strip of land between them
selves and the sea. Its greatest width is not over forty
miles, but there are places where the mountains and the
sea join. The range has no break in it, and, as already
mentioned, operated as a great bar to the earlier explora
tions of the interior. These mountains, near as they are
to the sea, act as a dividing range to the waters. What
ever falls on the eastern is carried, after a short course,
to the sea. The rains of the western side go to the
interior. All the explorers who had sailed round the coast
had spoken of it as high and bold in character. There
were, it is true, low lands and sand-hills on the south
eastern coast, but there were, probably, ranges behind.
Hume and Hovell had seen snowy mountains to the

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 341
south of them, on their overland journey to Port Phillip.
The sea could be of no great distance from them
further south, and an extensive drainage from them was
observed. Again, between Portland and Cape Jervis the coast
was low enough, but the dark wooded summits, and a
range immediately behind, and the isolated peaks of
Mount Gambier, Mount Burr, Mount Leake, and Mount
Schanck, showed that there was high land further in. The
only real exception was the ninety miles' beach of the
Coorong up to Encounter Bay. Had the exception been
examined, it might have dissipated the dreams of ex
plorers in those days. It contained the mouth of the
River Murray. Flinders had examined the whole coast
westward, including the great Australian Bight, and
its unbroken line of high chalk cliffs. Now, the settlers
argued this way : — The greater part of the drainage of
this country falls inland. The coast, as far as it is
known, is elevated. May it not be, then, that the in
terior of the continent is much depressed below the level
of the coast, and this, forming a receptacle for the in
land drainage, gives rise to a large central lake ? It is
needless to point out here how much the explorations of
Oxley and Evans served to confirm this view. That
most of the rivers terminated in reedy swamps seemed
an ascertained fact. What Flinders had stated as his
impressions of the Great Australian Bight was looked
upon as another proof. He said he felt convinced that
there was an inland sea inside that monotonous line of
white cliffs. Even at this distance, when exploration
has gone so far, and geography has progressed so much,
the theory does not seem so very unreasonable, when
founded upon what then appeared to be such strong
evidence. No wonder then that every trifling circum
stance was interpreted in its favour. Every flight of
birds in a westerly direction was carefully noted. The
wildest fables of the natives were immediately believed,
and when the same savages spoke of waters where they
had crossed, and where large fish were found, meaning
probably, Lake Alexandrina, the existence of the inland
lake was thought to be clearly established. By no one

342 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was this more firmly believed than by Captain Charles
Sturt, of H.M. 39th Foot, probably one ofthe greatest
of Australian explorers. From the time of his arrival
in the colony he had taken a most earnest interest in
everything connected with its geography. Once the
inland lake theory had been broached, it became almost
one of the problems of his life to solve. Years after,
when many well-equipped expeditions had failed, and
many valuable lives lost in the search, and though he
himself had led a party further than any previous
explorer, broken in health and spirits, he was obliged to
leave the colony with the question still involved in doubt
and mystery. He was a man of undoubted energy, and
united in his character most of the qualities which an
explorer should possess. Accurate in observation, of
considerable scientific acquirements, and of unwearied
application, he was possessed besides of talents of a high
order, while his shrewdness in drawing conclusions
gaA^e his theories almost the certainty of facts. To these
qualities he added personal courage, and untiring zeal,
a consideration for others, and forgetfulness of self,
which endeared him to his followers ; while his modesty
and unobtrusiveness threw a charm over his writings
and exploits. We shall have occasion, in describing his
journal, in 1845, to illustrate most of these qualities.
His description may be concluded for the present by
stating that he is justly regarded as one of the heroes of
Australian history,
Sturt, then, warmly espoused the inland lake theory.
From the year 1826 to the year 1828, the colony had
been visited by seasons of unprecedented dryness.
Then, if ever, seemed the time for deciding the ques
tions which Oxley's incomplete discoveries had raised.
It will be remembered that in following down the Mac
quarrie, which is now known to be a branch of the Dar
ling, and the Lachlan a branch of the Murrumbidgee,
Oxley had been stopped by these rivers terminating in
immense reedy swamps. These were thought to be the
commencement of the great inland lake ; but the years
in which Oxley made his explorations were ones in
Avhich the rains had been unusually heavy. It seemed

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 343
to Sturt that the question could not be held to be satis
factorily decided until the exploration had been repeated
in a dry year. He, consequently, joined with the others
in making strong representations to take advantage of
what was then a most favourable season. As every
fresh visit to the interior confirmed the news that the
country was never more dry, the Government deter
mined to fit out an expedition at once. Lieutenant-
General Sir Ralph Darling was then governor of the
colony. His choice of Captain Sturt to command an
expedition reflects great credit on his judgment. In
September, 1828, Sturt received orders from his Excel
lency to prepare for his journey ; and it is from this
period that the details of his discoveries commence.
On the 9th November, of the same year, the expedi
tion was ready to start, and Captain Sturt waited on his
Excellency to receive his final instructions. They were
as follows : — He was to depart from Wellington Valley,
and proceed to Mount Harris (discovered by Oxley),
where he was to form a temporary depot. From thence
he was to explore the Macquarrie Avestward as far as he
could, and, if possible, to its mouth. If stopped by any
permanent sheet of water, he was to skirt it, and ex
plore the land round it to the westward and southward,
as far as possible. He was, at the same time, recom
mended not to risk the health of the men by remaining
long in swampy country, nor to peril. the success of the
expedition by pushing forward further than the provi
sions for the return would warrant them. Failing of
being able to reach the westward or southward, he was
to try explorations in a northerly direction. Not, how
ever, returning to any place on the coast if Welling
ton Valley should be nearer. There were the usual
instructions about keeping a journal, intercourse with
the natives, collecting of curiosities, &c. _
On the 10th November, the expedition started. It
consisted of Mr. Hamilton Hume, formerly spoken of as
an explorer ; two soldiers ; and six convicts, of whom
one was a shoe-smith, one a carpenter, one a harness-
maker, and three stockmen. The expedition had been
provided with a small boat, and a waggon for its con-

344 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
veyance, together with tents, blankets, pack-saddles, and
all necessary stores, besides six months' provisions.
The stores were drawn by bullocks. The rendez
vous was fixed at Wellington Valley, which was reached
by the whole party at the end of the month. Here
some delay occurred in training and breaking-in the
bullocks, which time was employed by Captain Sturt in
obtaining information from the settlers of the nature of
the country beyond. All he could glean was but little.
One stockman informed him that there was a lake about
three days' journey to the left of the river. On the 7th
December, the parties started. Leaving Wellington
Valley, they kept along the Macquarrie. It will be seen
by the map, that their starting-point was about one
hundred and eighty miles north-west of Sydney. It
was only inhabited by a few squatters, though now one
of the most fertile agricultural districts in New South
Wales.* Mr. Oxley has described with enthusiasm its
land and scenery. His praises were more than deserved,
for the land was rich, and the scenery beautiful.
Captain Sturt was unable to procure any native
guides, except one or two, who agreed to show him as far
as the cataracts, about half-way between the valley they
had left and Mount Harris. At first, the journey was un
interesting enough : they merely wound backwards and
forwards on what Sturt describes as the beautiful banks
of the Macquarrie. After a few days' journey, they came
upon a party of natives, who were much frightened at
first, but soon established friendly intercourse with the
explorers ; and the poor savages were prevailed on to
accompany them to the lake of which they had heard.
The intervening country was now flat, and covered with
dry marshes.
They found the lake to be a serpentine sheet of fresh
water, about a mile in length, and about four hundred
yards wide. There seemed to be no streams leading
in or out of it ; but it was full of fish, and pretty deep,
though it was evidently much below its ordinary level.
Accompanied by about twenty-three natives, Sturt pro-
* It was there that Hargreaves made his first discovery of gold in Aus
tralia, in 1851.

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 345
ceeded to recruit his provisions and rest his party by a
little shooting and fishing. The next day, they went
across again to the river, and reached the cataracts of
the Macquarrie in the evening. Here the small quan
tity of water passing through the falls excited the atten
tion of the leader. Whatever might have happened to
Oxley, there seemed no fear of this expedition, at least,
being stopped by excessive floods. The barometer gave
the cataract a height of six hundred and eighty feet
above the level of the sea, and the latitude was found
to be 31° 50', long. 148° 3'.
The lake they had left was called by the natives
Lake Buddah. From this point the party journeyed on
to Mount Harris, sometimes accompanied by numbers
of natives. They noticed on their way that the banks
of the river became narrower and the quantity of water
smaller. Yet the country seemed to be very much sub
ject to inundations. On the 22nd they reached Mount
Forster, the highest summit of Mount Harris. The
river from the elevation presented an unbroken hori
zon of dark forest, except to the eastward, where the
Arbuthnot ranges loomed in the distance. One thing,
however, was certain — they were not likely to be
stopped by an inundation this time. When Mr. Oxley
had visited this spot, ten years before (he had been
buried a week before Sturt left Sydney), the country
around was one sheet of water. Now, however, an
interminable forest of reeds occupied its place. They
attempted to push through this, but a couple of days'
hard labour obliged them to desist. Here Captain Sturt
determined on exploring the river in a boat. He
divided the party. Mr. Hume was directed to explore
the edge of the marsh to the northward, while he,
accompanied by two men, attempted to follow down the
channel of the Macquarrie. He was doomed to be dis
appointed. After some few miles, the boat suddenly
grounded in a forest of reeds, and two insignificant
creeks was all that marked the further progress of the
river. On returning to the rendezvous, Mr. Hume
reported the discovery of a serpentine sheet of water
about twelve miles to the northward. This was evi-

246 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
dently the bed of the lost river. They proceeded to it,
and again found its progress stopped by a dry reedy
marsh. This was the third marsh they had met with
since leaving Mount Harris.
Captain Sturt now tried to penetrate to the north
west with two men, but he returned in six days, after
passing over a barren, inhospitable country, having failed
to find any permanent stream of water. They there
fore moved up to a chain of ponds four miles to the
eastward ; Mr. Hume, in the meantime, had made a cir
cuit to find the Castlereagh River, but had not succeeded.
They were completely at a loss to know what to do. Be
fore proceeding further, it became necessary to know
Avhether a request which they had sent by two of the
party, for a depot of provisions to be sent to Mount
Harris, had been complied with. Sturt rode back to
the latter place, and finding no one, nailed a paper to a
tree, stating that water was very scarce and their pro
visions running short. He now, by a second journey,
ascertained beyond a doubt that the course of the Mac
quarrie Avas an extensive swamp, about twenty-five miles
west of Mount Harris.
Having fully fulfilled the first portion of his instruc
tions, he determined to push in a north-westerly direc
tion for the interior. On the 13th January, 1829, they
again started, keeping along the banks of some small
creeks where the water was plentiful. On the 17th
they encamped under New Year's Range, which is the
first elevation west of Mount Harris. From the sum
mit of this Sturt thought he observed some water, and
having found it ten miles further west, they moved up
to it on the 18th. New Year's Range is a row of five
hills, elevated scarcely three hundred feet above the
plains, in long. 146° 32', lat. 30° 21'. They called the
water in which they were now encamped New Year's
Creek. As it took too easterly a course, they struck to
the west, to a hill they had named Oxley's Tableland.
From this, Sturt started again, with one companion, for
some elevations on the south-west, named by him Dur
ban's Group. He found them to consist of a fine range
of hills, of sandstone formation, eight or nine miles

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 347
long, covered with excellent grass, but no water. He
returned to the camp. There remained nothing now
for them but to return in a north-easterly direction to
New Year's Creek, and try to penetrate further north
by the assistance of its water.
After a difficult and perilous journey, they reached
its bed, so much widened in extent as to be scarcely
navigable even when subject to great floods ; but it was
quite dry. Their position was very critical. Tired as
the men were, they found, after a long search, a pond
which satisfied the wants of the party. Buoyed up by
hope, they continued to explore the creek, and at last
were gratified by finding that it had emptied itself into
a noble river ; and a broad sheet of water, covered with
numerous wild-fowl, expanded before the delighted
gaze of the explorers. They steered towards it, and
the result is best described in Sturt's own words :¦ —
" Its banks were too precipitous to allow of our watering
the cattle, but the men eagerly descended to quench
their thirst, which a powerful sun had contributed to
increase ; nor shall I ever forget the cry of amazement
that followed their doing so, or the look of terror and
disappointment with which they called out to inform me
that the water was so salt as to be unfit to drink.
This was, indeed, too true. On tasting it I found it
extremely nauseous, and strongly impregnated with salt,
being apparently a mixture of sea and fresh water.
Whence this arose, whether from local causes or from a
communication with some inland sea, I know not, but
the discovery was certainly one for which I was not
prepared. Our hopes were annihilated at the moment
of their apparent realization. The cup of joy was
dashed out of our hands before we had time to raise it
to our lips. Notwithstanding this disappointment, we
proceeded down the river, and halted at about five
miles, being influenced by the goodness of the feed to
provide for the cattle as well as circumstances would
permit. They would not drink of the river water, but
stood covered in it for many hours, having their noses
alone exposed above the stream. Their condition gave
me great uneasiness. It was evident they could not

348 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
long hold out under their excessive thirst, and unless
we could procure some fresh water it would be impos
sible for us to continue our journey. On a close exami
nation, the river appeared to be much below its ordinary
level, and its current was scarcely perceptible. We
placed sticks to ascertain if there was a rise or fall of
tide, but could arrive at no satisfactory conclusion,
although there was undoubtedly a current in it. Yet
as I stood upon its banks at sunset, when not a breath
of air existed to break the stillness of the waters below
me, and saw their surface kept in constant agitation by
the leaping of fish, I doubted whether the river could
supply itself plentifully, and rather imagined that it
owed much of its abundance, which the pelicans seemed
to indicate was constant, to some mediterranean sea or
other." The place where Sturt struck the river was long.
145° 33' east, latitude 29° 37' south. After the terrible
disappointment about the nature of the river, he was
at a loss what to do. To remain where they were was
impossible ; to follow down a river whose stream was
running, and carrying down only salt water, seemed
quite hopeless. The immediate necessities of the men
and cattle just then pressed more upon the attention
than further exploration. Mr. Hume was, fortunately,
that night able to terminate their apprehensions, by dis
covering a pool of fresh water not very far from their
camp. This supplied their wants, and enabled them to
push their exploration further down the stream, in the
hope that the character of its waters might change.
They wandered eighteen miles along its banks, encoun
tering in their way numerous tribes of natives, who
subsisted by fishing. They were kindly received by
them, and allowed to pass unmolested. At the close of
a wearisome day of travelling, Mr. Hume called Captain
Sturt's attention to a bubbling rise of waters in the
middle of the river which looked like a spring. They
examined it, and found it salt as brine. It was very
evident whence the waters of the river were derived,
and all hope of finding them fresh was at an end. Sturt
at one time thought when he came upon the salt water,

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 349
that he could not be far from the inland sea, in which
every one at that time believed. He now thought dif
ferently, and his only care was to remove the party to
a place of safety before the provisions should run short,
or the water fail in their search. He, therefore, directed
his men to move back to the water they had last left,
while he and Mr. Hume made a final attempt to explore
the river further. Two days' further journey convinced
them that the character of the river did not alter as far
as sixty miles below the place where they first reached
it. Want of water compelled them to turn back, and
having regained the party, directed them towards the
camp and dep6t at Mount Harris.
It was with the greatest regret that Sturt turned his
steps from the river ; but even had water been found,
want of provisions would have prevented his further
progress. On leaving, he named it the Darling, in
honour of General Ralph Darling, at that time his
Majesty's representative in New South Wales ; uncle
to Sir Charles Darling, present Governor of Yictoria
(1864). They had but little time to lose in pushing back to
Mount Harris. On their way they found the foremost
streams of the Macquarrie very nearly dry. In one of
the serpentine water-holes, the water was so low that
the fishes' backs appeared above the level, and the crows
were picking at them. There was, though very little,
enough to satisfy the requirements of the party. When
near Mount Harris the whole bush was seen to be on
fire, and Sturt became alarmed that the blacks had over
powered the relief party, taken their provisions, and
then fired the bush. They were relieved by finding,
on the 23rd, a soldier and stockman in charge of every
thing necessary for their immediate wants.
After refitting, Captain Sturt thought to cut the
Darling at a point further south, but a slight investiga
tion of the country in that direction induced him to
abandon the project. There was nothing left but to
strike in a northerly direction for the previously dis
covered river Castlereagh, and to try, with the help of
its waters, to cut the Darling further north. On the

350 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
9th of March they started ; on the 10th they reached
the Castlereagh, but its bed was dry. A small pond
was all they had to depend upon now. Further search,
however, brought them to the end of a lagoon, on which
they camped. They therefore followed up the bed of the
Castlereagh, until finding it dry they struck off to a
creek to the west, called Morrisset's Chain of Ponds.
This provided them with abundance of water until the
29th, when, to their surprise and chagrin, they again
struck upon the salt waters ofthe Darling.
It required but one glance to tell Sturt that he
was again upon the Darling. Though ninety miles
nearer to its sources, it preserved the same character.
The banks were still high and grassy, as if they flanked
a much more important drainage. The reaches were
full and deep, and well stocked with fish. Worse than
all, the waters were still salt and undrinkable. In fact,
this stream was in every Avay an obstacle. It was too
wide to be easily crossed, and the character of its waters
did not admit of its being followed down. The only
other alternative left was to turn back. This Sturt was
obliged to do, but it was very disheartening. To have
found the interior of the continent a marsh was bad
enough, but to have found it a desert, watered only by
rivers as salt as brine, would proclaim to the world a
wilderness in Australia, such as never had been heard
of before. Prior to leaving the river, Sturt went down to the
junction of the Castlereagh, which was about half a mile
away. There was a native village on the point of the
two streams, and a few savages collected round the
tents. They declined any communication with the ex
plorers, but seemed not so terrified at them as others had
shown themselves.
As a final attempt, Sturt tried to cross the Darling,
and push to the northwards ; but vast plains of fright
ful aridity soon stopped him. He might have succeeded
better at another time ; but this was a season of terrible
drought, and he was obliged to turn back, with only
enlarged notions of what dry seasons could cause near
the tropics in Australia. The plains were almost as

STURT DISCOVERS THE RIVER DARLING. 351
bare as a board, and whatever grass had grown upon
them was withered and broken into a sort of dust, which
swept in clouds before the wind. The only vigorous
vegetation was in the moist beds of the dry water
courses ; but even here it was only the trees that were
green, for the rushes and other lighter plants were quite
withered away. " The cranes," says Sturt, " with out
stretched necks, gasping for breath, searched the chan
nels of the rivers for Avater in vain." He adds, that
the native dogs were thin, but they ought not to have
been, if the cranes were so exhausted.
There was nothing left for Sturt but to return to
the depot. This he did by following up a different
creek, until he came to Mount Harris. He had only
succeeded in finding that the Macquarrie and Castle
reagh joined another large river ; but this was a great
deal, considering the state of the country. The problem
therefore was, not where the Macquarrie, but where the
Darling finally discharged its waters ; so that the inland
lake theory was not settled, but only deferred by these
discoveries. The party reached Wellington Valley on
the 21st April, after an absence of four months and two
weeks. The whole of the country was found, as they
returned, to be in a dreadful state for want of water.
The natives were thin and emaciated, not from thirst,
but from the absence of game, caused by the state of the
herbage.

352

CHAPTER XVIII.
STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER.
The Murrumbidgee — Junction of the Murray— Junction of the Lachlan and
Darling — Hostility of the natives— Lake Alexandrina — The Murray
Mouth — Great sufferings on the return-^Captain Barker — Mount Lofty-
Melancholy fate of Barker — Further explorations.
It now became a problem of the highest interest to dis
cover where the waters of the Darling were emptied.
Exploration, as we have seen, generally went by fits
and starts in Australia ; and now that a new aspect came
over the inland lake theory, no one could rest until the
rest of the story were told. The ultimate fate of the
Darling was the great geographical puzzle, and it did
not seem very easy to find it out. It had been proved
that its waters could not be followed, but, as they had a
southerly course, perhaps they could be reached below
Sturt's most southerly point. But this was not an easy
matter. A party could only reach so far by following
some other river. But which one ? The Lachlan ter
minated in a swamp, and the Murrumbidgee ran too far
to the south to offer much chance of success. After
some deliberation, it was determined to take the latter.
It might not reach the Darling ; but, at any rate, it was
one of the great channels of drainage from the western
watershed, about which nothing was known. It had
not been ascertained where any of the western waters
emptied ; no matter which was explored first, the
fate of one would surely give a clue to that of all the
others. v
In September, 18&9, Sturt received the necessary
instructions for a second descent into the interior, for

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 353
the purpose of tracing the Murrumbidgee, and all the
rivers connected with it as far as possible. In the event
of a failure in this object, it was hoped that the Darling
might be reached by a north-west course from the point
at which their progress was stopped. The expedition
was provided with a boat and every requisite for explo
ration by water.
On the 25th, the party reached the Murrumbidgee.
This was a very different stream from the Macquarrie.
It was not like that river — a shallow meandering creek,
between long, deep, smooth reaches, or lakes of placid
water ; neither did it resemble the Lachlan, which was
more like a marsh than a river. It was a fine smooth,
and deep-flowing mass of water, showing by its even and
regular current that it would not cease to run until it
had reached the ocean. Sturt followed it down on the
banks at first. This was a journey of some difficulty.
His party was continually obliged to cross and re-cross
for the sake of obtaining level ground on which the drays
could travel. The course of the stream was west-north
west, and it gradually increased in breadth and depth.
The country also improved in appearance, and they met
many parties of natives who gave them information
about their route. They all agreed that the Murrum
bidgee was a tributary to some larger river, which,
further on, they would find coming from the south
east. On the 15th, they were approaching the meridian
of longitude at which all the other rivers of the interior
have been found to exhaust themselves. To Sturt's
alarm, the channel now changed to some extent, and
the banks became low and covered with reeds. Yet the
stream rolled on. Unfortunately, the country through
which it passed became a desert. There was absolutely
no food for the cattle, while the soil was so sandy, that
the animals sank knee-deep in it at eA7ery step. In the
midst of this worthless country, the Lachlan River
joined, or at least that which Sturt considered the
Lachlan. The natives called it the Colare, and said
that it came from the north-east. This was the direc
tion of the Lachlan, but it was so different from the
marshy stream described by Oxley, that, but for the
VOL. I. 2 A

354 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
reeds, no one would have believed that it was the
same. On the 26th, they left the river to keep on better
travelling ground for the cattle. In the afternoon, they
tried to get back again, but the channel could not be
found. Sturt and his men were, for a moment, under
the belief that they had lost it altogether ; but it had
taken a bend in the meantime, and was not discovered
until the evening. This little incident made an important
change in Sturt's plans. It was useless to exhaust the
cattle by following the windings ofthe stream, especially
as the banks were now, in all respects, like the marshes
of the Macquarrie. At first, he proposed to build a
little skiff and explore some portion of the waters before
proceeding further. But he soon saw that much time
would be lost thus, so he suddenly decided on a course
as energetic and vigorous as it was bold and daring.
He resolved to build a small skiff, in which to carry his
stores, and sending back the drays, to take six men
with him in the whale-boat for the further exploration
of the river. Seven days saw the whale-boat and skiff
built, painted, and afloat upon the water. The stores
were soon shipped, a mast and spar cut for the whale-
boat ; the return party were told off and directed to re
main one week at the encampment before leaving for a
higher part of the stream. All the preparations being
completed, the hardy little band departed on their
perilous journey. One cannot but admire Sturt's
energy and promptitude. No sooner did appearances
lead him to believe that they had come near to the
junction of some large stream, than he took action
immediately, and though the course he adopted was
very hazardous, he courageously faced the danger. It
relieved him very much, of course, to be independent
of the drays ; and who could help sharing their enthu
siasm at finding that two oars Avere sufficient to send
them leisurely down the stream : while Sturt sat in the
stern making notes, and a man at the bows stood, gun
in hand, ready for any game which appeared ?
The boat party started on the 6th. It was all very
easy at first, and no danger Avas apprehended. On the

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 355
banks there were no natives ; in the waters there were
no alligators ; and who dreamt even of sunken dangers
in the shape of logs, rocks, or shoals ? On the second
day, however, the skiff which they were towing went
bump upon a snag and sank in twelve feet of water.
This was unpleasant, for with the skiff, down had gone
all, or nearly all, their stores. It was a long time before
they got them up again ; the water was so thick and
muddy that they had to feel on the bottom with oars
before they could get each separate article. Thus a
day was lost, as well as a few valuable things which
the natives stole. The savages managed to conceal
themselves so carefully that they were not seen, and but
for the fact of the articles being gone and certain
sounds during the night, the things were so cleverly
taken that their disappearance might have been attri
buted to magic.
With this exception, the expedition went on well
enough. A good look-out was kept for snags, for there
was little else to see. The country, or rather the sides
of the river, became so flat and densely covered with
reeds, that Sturt began to fear a termination as the
stream of the Macquarrie had ended ; but the waters
were as plentiful as ever, so that there was no imme
diate ground for apprehension. Oxley could scarcely
float his boat in the Macquarrie, and in these marshes
one could float a seventy-four. But on the 13th of
January, there really did seem cause for alarm ; the
stream became very narrow, rapid, and so blocked up
with timber that its navigation became almost impos
sible. With difficulty, Sturt kept his course, every
moment expecting that some obstacle would stop their
progress entirely. Amid these logs and snags, a great
many tributaries joined, and this perhaps explained
how the wood came there. On the 14th, they were
hurried down by the current, in danger of being
swamped at every sunken log Which lay across their
track. There was no necessity to row now, for it was
as much as the steersman could do to keep the boat's
head steady, and prevent her broaching-to. At three
o'clock, the man on the look-out said that they were ap-
2 a 2

356 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
proaching a junction, and almost immediately after
wards the boat shot forth into the placid, glassy waters of
a broad and noble river. This was a great change for
the better in their circumstances — snags and natives, all
were forgotten, as they let the boat glide along the
current and gazed with astonishment upon the scene
before them. On either side rose banks some eighteen
feet high, which prevented their seeing much of the
country beyond ; but the waters were transparent, and
in peering through their limpid waves at the sandy
bottom, or in looking forward to each succeeding reach
as it unfolded new prospects before them, they found
employment enough.
The rate of the current was nearly three miles an
hour : there was little change in it for many days,
except that it seemed to grow broader. Once only were
any rapids met, and these were passed with some little
difficulty. The few natives met with were troublesome
at first, but eventually became more friendly, and even
helped the explorers to get their boat over the rapids.
No information could be got from them. Sturt tried to
gather, whether they were near any large river coming
from the north-east; but he could not make them
understand : he had made up his mind that if the Dar
ling continued its course from the point to which he
had traced it, the junction with this fine stream would •
be met with before long. He called the main channel
the Murray, after Sir George Murray,* at that time
Secretary of State for the Colonies.
The junction of the Murray and Darling was now
anxiously looked for, and at each succeeding turn of the
stream Sturt renewed his anticipations of making this
important discovery. Some natives who had followed
them for some distance and had been rather more
friendly than usual, left them secretly and suddenly on
the night ofthe 22nd. This was scarcely remarked at
the time, but was well remembered next day, when they
saw the immense multitudes of savages assembled on
the banks to stop their progress. However, they
* Subsequently Master of the Ordnance in Peel's Ministry, in 1834 ; but
better known as the editor of the " Marlborough Despatches."— Died in 1847.

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 357
started in the morning, little suspecting any mischance ;
and as the day was fine and the wind fair, they were
able for the first time to make use of their sail. At a
bend of the river they suddenly came in sight of a par
ticularly unpleasant prospect. There was a vast con
course of natives solemnly marshalled on the banks in
battle array, They were armed with all the deadly in
struments of their rude warfare ; they were painted and
bedaubed with the hideous pigments which they use to
make their ugly features more ferocious and unearthly,
and finally, they yelled in monotonous chorus of savage
delight, as they saw the boat approach them. But it
held on its course, nevertheless. Sturt fancied that his
four friends might be amongst the crowd, and that he
might yet make his peace. But the natives seemed de
termined to resist any attempt to land, and certainly,
the explorers almost quailed as they came near
their enemies. Some were marked with white paint
on their ribs, legs, and arms, so as to look like skeletons ;
others were smeared with grease and yellow ochre, and
all held their spears aloft quivering in the air, ready to
hurl them when the boat came near. The scene was
certainly very impressive. A dead silence, says Sturt,
prevailed in the front ranks ; but in the rear, the men
and women were very clamorous. The latter seemed
to have had a bucket of whitewash emptied on their
heads. Sturt was unwilling to shed their blood unless com
pelled, especially as the combat might be doubtful
where the natives were almost forty to one; so he
turned the boat's head down the stream. The savages
were now worked to a fury of anger and disappoint
ment. They yelled and jumped about in a frenzy, fol
lowing the boat down and throwing their spears. Of
course, the explorers did not mind all this as long as
they could keep out of reach. At first that was easy
enough ; but the water soon shoaled, and they saw to
their sorrow that they were approaching a sand bank
Which stretched half-way across the stream. To this the
natives flocked in crowds, and several chiefs ran up to
their middle in the water to get as near the boat as

358 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
possible. Sturt now saw that he must fire upon them.
Directing three of the men to defend the boat while the
others kept up the firing, he was just on the point of
shooting the leader, when he was informed that another
party of blacks had made their appearance on the other
side of the river. They were only four ; but these four
made a most important diversion in favour of the boat's
crew. They were running along at the top of their
speed, and as soon as they reached the river they
jumped in and swam across. They were the four
savages who had left their camp secretly the night
before. It appeared now that they had retained a
grateful remembrance of their treatment, for one of
them soon made his way to the other natives, and by
blows and menaces put a stop to their hostile demon
strations. This was a great relief, as may well be imagined ;
but what made it more pleasant, was the discovery that
the sand-bank was caused by the junction of another
large river. This was the Darling. Sturt guessed it at
once, and he guessed right, though it was not believed
at the time. He took his boat a short way up it, and
then hoisting his flag gave three cheers, to the great
astonishment of the sable spectators, who doubtless
admired the flag ; but thought their own yelling
vastly superior to that of the crew. Ere they had
recovered from their astonishment, the boat had swung
round to the fair wind, and had soon left the natives
behind, wondering what it all meant.
At their next camp the skiff was emptied and
broken up : unfortunately for the explorers, it contained
but little. The accident on the Murrumbidgee had
spoilt all their salt provisions, so that they were not
without misgivings as to their rations, should the expe
dition last much longer. But where were they going
to ? that was the question. As long as they had been
upon the Murrumbidgee, their course had been to the
south-west, so that they might have hoped to reach the
sea : but since their entry on the waters of the Murray,
their course had been nearly north-west — they were
going towards the centre of the continent. How long

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 359
the river might last was uncertain. It was not how
ever diminishing, for they had passed many tributary
creeks since they had left the Darling, and two rivers
from the north and south, named the Rufus and the
Lindsay. For all they knew then, the Murray might
take them to the inland sea, whose existence seemed
now more probable than ever ; or it might carry
them right across the continent to the western coast.
In any case, their provisions would not last much
longer. They were already many hundred miles from
Sydney, and still going north-west. It was a hazardous
undertaking, but Sturt's courage held out. Day after
day, the stream swept them further from home, until the
latitude was to the south of the head of St. Vincent's
Gulf : then the doubts of the party were relieved, and
they could soon expect the end. Beyond all question,
this large river must terminate on the south coast, and all
were in feverish anxiety to see on what favoured part it
would be. One thing damped their spirits a little :
the country passed through was a perfect desert of
sandy scrub. It was not alone for the sake of future
colonists that they grieved at this, but in such a country
it was useless to expect game, even in the widest sense
in which famishing men apply the term. Altogether,
their prospects were not agreeable : the men were much
reduced ; the natives were almost hostile ; and to row
back against the stream under such conditions, for so
great a distance, was a great risk. Still Sturt kept on.
Surely the decision and courage of such a man deserved
more than the renown it obtained.
Thus the month of January passed. Towards the
end of it, the country on either side of the river changed
its character. It Avas bounded, sometimes on one side
and sometimes on another, by high cliffs, forming
precipices from one hundred and fifty to five hundred
feet high. The rock was white, like chalk, and quite
as soft. It was one mass of tertiary shells. Parts of
these cliffs were very beautiful. A great many of the
fossils — sometimes a whole precipice — was changed to
selenite, which, while retaining all the varied forms and
fanciful tracery of marine ornaments, was as clear as

360 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
crystal, and looked like fancy work in ice. When the
setting sun shone full on the face of these cliffs, the red
rays Avere reflected back off the crystalline facets into
the dazzled gaze of the explorers, and made them
imagine that they were in fairy land, and that palaces
of diamonds were not quite things of fable.
On the 3rd February, the river took a direct course
to the southward, and altered very much in appearance ;
it became broader and much longer in its reaches. The
country on either side was very fertile. Sixty miles
from the great southerly bend the stream was the third
of a mile in width — a broad and noble sheet of water,
the only one of its kind, alas ! in all Australia. The
waves which rolled up its centre were now a serious
obstacle to the little boat, yet they were joyous signs to
the crew, for they spoke of a clear path to the ocean.
But the waters were still quite fresh. This was rather
puzzling. Where was the sea ? The river terminated
in a beautiful lake, and on the western side its waters
were shaded by the distant outlines of the Flinders
Range. One high peak of this range was thought to
be Mount Lofty, but this was a mistake. Mount Lofty
was still far away. It was Mount Barker, called so
from a melancholy incident, which will be just now
mentioned. Here then was a triumph for Sturt ; he had traced
the Murray to its mouth, and thus solved the question
of all the western waters, from the Darling Downs to
the Australian Alps. He knew by his latitude and
longitude that he was close to Encounter Bay, where
Flinders had met the French ships, and he could not
doubt that this large lake had a fine outlet to the ocean.
The waters soon became salt, as they steered across
Lake Alexandrina ; but a great disappointment awaited
them. They ascertained, after a very slight examina
tion, what might have been suspected from the occur
rence of the lake, whose shallow waters rarely gave a
much greater depth than six feet. There was no
navigable outlet to the Murray. There was a channel
on the further side, running to the south-west, which
Avas obstructed by a large body of natives, and numerous

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 301
shoals. The natives were dispersed, but the shoals were
too much for the boat, and Sturt was obliged to return,
with a very unfavourable impression of the value of his
great discovery. Bad as this was, his expedition had
succeeded far better than he could have anticipated, and
with a knowledge that he had done his duty and
accomplished his task, he set out on his return. It was
with no regret that he did so, for the country around
the lake was not very attractive. At the mouth of the
stream it was a mere coast- of barren sand-hills, up to
which the sea came in for a long distance, in immense
lines of high, white-crested, sweeping breakers. No
matter how calm and unruffled was the shallow lake ;
no matter if under the blue sky there was not a breeze
sufficient to disturb the reflected image of the green
banks, or the distant mountains ; the hoarse roar of the
surf was ever echoing along it, and the view of the
foamy waves spoilt all the beauty of the rest of the
scene. The sand, too, spoke ominously of the soil, and
while it explained why the river was closed, it showed
why -no navigator had suspected its existence from the
sea side.
On the 13th February, Sturt re-entered the river on
his way homeAvards. The men were much exhausted,
and their provisions very scanty indeed. Fortunately,
. the wind was fair, and they were enabled to use their
sails. One singular feature at a return camp is worth
recording. They stopped for the night at a native
burial-ground, quite different from anything yet de
scribed in connection with the Australian savage, if
it is to be regarded as a burial-ground. It was a por
tion of the bank, which was so full of human bones,
that it must have been used as a place of sepulture for
many years, and yet there was no mound on the surface
above, or on the neighbouring trees, which would indi
cate a memorial of any kind. Could this have been a
sepulchre, or Avas it not rather an alluvial deposit of bones
brought down by the floods of the river ? In any case,"
it is a pity that the matter has never been investigated
further ; for even if it only proved a native cemetery,
it would be the only instance on record, of graves without

362 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
mound or heap of some kind, and therefore to be referred
to some former part of native history. ^
The rest of the journey back is easily described. It
was for the explorers a protracted course of suffering.
They had nothing but flour left, and they could get no
game, so that their diet ill fitted them for' the exertion
of pulling continually against the stream. It took a
month for them to get back to the Murrumbidgee, and
during the whole distance they were constantly
harassed by the natives, who made many attempts to
surprise and massacre them. Fortunately, bloodshed
was avoided. Seventy-seven days after starting they
reached the place where they had built their boat,
having in the interim rowed at least two thousand miles.
Here a terrible disappointment awaited them. They
had expected all along that provisions would have been
sent from Sydney to this point. The hope of this had
buoyed them up amid all their fatigues. But the depot
was just as they had left it, and no one was there. The
next rendezvous was two hundred miles away, and
Sturt remembered with bitterness that he had told his
companions that they need not come further down
unless some extraordinary delay took place. It was
useless therefore to expect them, so the boat proceeded
onward. For seventeen days longer they pulled against
the stream. The daily journeys became gradually
shorter and shorter. No murmur, however, escaped
the crew, as they sat in the boat, pale and emaciated,
and pulled against the current. At night, in tlieir
tents, before sleeping, when Sturt's presence no longer
controlled them, their sufferings would find an utterance.
" I frequently," says Sturt, " heard them complain of
great pain, and severe exhaustion. ' I must tell the
captain,' some of them would say, ' that I can pull
no more.' ' To-morrow came, and they pulled on. At
last, one of them became deranged, and the others fairly
gave up. This was still ninety miles from the dep6t,
but they absolutely could not take the boat any further.
Reluctantly they drew it on shore, and two of the
strongest men were sent in advance, and the rest waited.
For six days there was no sign of their return. The

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 363
last day's provisions had been served out, and then they
thought of nothing but saving their lives. The speci
mens were buried in cases made of the whale-boat, and
they resolved next day to folloAv in the track of their
comrades. That next day, however, brought them the
long-expected relief. This was the last of their trials,
and exactly six months after leaving they were all safe
back again in Sydney. A triumph, of course, awaited
them there, and the story is still told as one of the
glories of Australia, how six men ventured some thou
sands of miles, through a country infested by hostile
savages, with no other conveyance than an open whale-
boat. When the results of the survey were known, it
seemed very hard to believe that so large a river as the
Murray had no other outlet than the one seen by Sturt.
This was not ascertained with certainty, and the
matter was considered an important point yet to be
determined. Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th, had
been employed at Port Raffles, on the northern coast,
and then subsequently at King George's Sound. On
that colony being united to Western Australia, he
handed his command to Sir James Stirling, and repaired
in a schooner to the mouth of the Murray. He arrived
at the entrance of Gulf St. Vincent in April, 1831, and
searched the east coast for some communication between
Lake Alexandrina and the gulf. Of course, he found
none. He then landed, in company with Mr. Kent,
and ascended Mount Lofty. The beauty of the scenery
surprised and delighted them. At first, they went over
lightly timbered plains of red clay, all waving under a
green crop of autumn grass. Before them the hills
rose up in masses of black and green, the swelling
mounds of the foreground being as verdant as emeralds,
and rising behind to black ravines of dark forest. The
explorers climbed Mount Lofty. It took them a long
while to do so, for the summit was far back amid the
ranges, but the view amply ^repaid them. There were
the plains stretching out as a rich tract of pasturage,
bordered by the gulf, which, from there, looked like a
lake. To the north, hills faded into more distant eleva-

364 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
tions, until the horizon was lost in the red glow of the
rising morning. Those plains were beautiful then
in their solitude ; they are beautiful now, though the
thin lines of roads can be traced here and there, and
the towns of Adelaide, Norwood, and Kensington lie
like patches of fancy work upon them. After gazing
with silent admiration at the scene, and noticing to
the east the hill which Sturt had mistaken for Mount
Lofty, they returned to their ship. They explored the
gulf a little further, and then landed on a southern
point, and crossed eastwards, towards Lake Alexandrina.
At every step they were delighted with the richness of
the country. It was hilly, but by no means barren.
It was well timbered, but not a forest ; and the valleys
here and there between the ridges could not be sur
passed for richness and verdure. When they reached
the lake they made their way to the channel through
which the Murray drained to the sea. Captain Barker
thought that it was about a quarter of a mile wide, and
he wished to swim across it, to take some bearings from
a sand-hill on the other side. He was the only one of
the party who could swim well enough for the purpose,
so, notwithstanding the remonstrances of his followers,
he stripped, and swam across, with his compass fastened
to him. He was seen to ascend the sand-hill and go
down towards the beach, and then his further course
was unknown. Hour after hour his companions waited,
but he did not return. Evening came, and still no
signs of the captain. When night set in they got a
terrible explanation of the cause of his absence. Native
fires were seen all round the sand-hill which he had
ascended. At once his party went back to the vessel
for assistance, but his fate was beyond all aid.
With the aid of a native female, whose assistance
they procured from Kangaroo Island, they were able
to learn the sad particulars of his fate, but that was all.
He had been seen by two natives, and wounded by a
spear, and as he took to the water to avoid them, he
was speared through the body in a dozen places. His
death was happily a speedy one. And afterwards, the
murderers said, they threw the body into the sea ; but no

STURT TRACES DOWN THE MURRAY RIVER. 365
one who knows the horrible habits of these natives will
believe that part of the story.
After this melancholy incident, Mr. Kent took the
command of the expedition. He made some further
exploration by returning up the valley of the Inman
River, amid the Mount Lofty ranges, and then pro
ceeded in the ship to Sydney. After this survey, no
further hopes were entertained of the sea-mouth of the
Murray.

366

CHAPTER XIX.
MITCHELL ON THE DARLING.
Barber's story— Mitchell's first expedition — The Peel River — The Nammoy—
Bullabalakit — The Nundawar Range — The Darling — The Gwyder—
Murder by the natives — Another expedition — The Bogan — The Darling —
Attempt to explore it in a boat — Fort Bourke — Course of the Darling —
Encounter with the natives — Return.
Shortly after Sturt's return, great desire for further
exploration was manifested in Sydney, in consequence
of the report of an escaped convict, who said he had
followed a "river from the back of Liverpool Plains,
until it brought him to the north coast. The river, he
said, was broad and navigable ; it flowed through a
level country with a dead current, and spread into
frequent lakes. He found that it ultimately discharged
itself into the sea ; and though he was uncertain at what
distance from its source, he was positive that he had never
travelled to the south or west. He said further, that the
natives called it the Kindur. There were one or two
circumstances in this story which gave it an air of great
probability ; and as Sir Ralph Darling was then in
Europe, Major Mitchell, the surveyor-general, applied to
Sir Patrick Lindesay, the acting governor, for leave to
conduct a party to test the truth of the convict Barber's
statement. The major was under the impression that
if a north-westerly flow existed on the east side of the
continent, there must be a watershed between it and the
southerly streams. Such a feature, he imagined, would
render a passage to the interior very easy. This was a
favourite idea of Mitchell's, from first to last, and indeed
it was a geographical problem until very lately. No
doubt the theory was a true one, but the mistake lay in

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 367
looking for the watershed too far to the south, when
only small rivers were known upon the north coast.
Walker's discoveries settled the point, and showed that
the watershed existed many hundred miles to the north
of the Liverpool Plains.
Major Mitchell started in November, 1831. He had
a strong party, and seventeen horses, besides carts, and
two canvas boats. On the 2nd December he arrived
at Wingen, a burning mountain, but not a volcano.
Its fire is probably derived from a combustion of the
bituminous shales of which the mount is composed, and
it occupies a space of small extent, but it has been
burning as long as it has been known, and is a curious
feature. The furthest settlement at that time was on the
Peel River, at the extremity of the Liverpool Plains.
Here Mitchell was informed that the river flowed west
ward, and was soon joined by the Muluerindee, from the
north coast. Before leaving in this direction, he re
packed his stores, and finding that the tea and sugar
were deficient, sent Mr. Finch, his assistant, back with
six bullocks to the Hunter River, to obtain fresh sup
plies. He was to follow the party along a line of trees,
which should be marked for the purpose. This arrange
ment proved a very fatal one, and marred the whole
expedition. They now travelled for two days in a westerly
direction, and even sometimes to the south of west,
meeting nothing except a few plants and fossiliferous
rocks. On the second day they reached the Peel below
its junction with the Muluerindee, and where they
encamped the stream supplied them with abundance of
fish, and the country plenty of game. From this point
Mitchell saw that the Peel continued its course west
ward, over extensive and rich plains, and then through
a gap in a range before them. The plain was desti
tute of trees, and very uneven. The soil was so deep
that Mitchell dreaded the effects of rain upon it. The
sequel showed that his fears were well founded.
When the range was passed, the view was clear to
the Avest. Only two hills could be seen, and between

368 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
them a long train of lofty gum trees showed the course
of the Nammoy. This was the stream Mitchell wanted,
for it led to the north-west. He followed it for many
days through mountainous but well-grassed plains,
until he came in sight of a majestic chain of mountains
to the westward. To reach these, Mitchell left the
river. The mountains, which have since been found to
be a continuation of Hardwicke's Range, were a truly
grand chain of rocks and precipices. The beauty and
loneliness of the mountain gorges and well-wooded
valleys have been cleverly depicted by the major, who
stood upon a lofty peak, and gazed in despair at the
impenetrable nature of the obstacle before him. Sub
limity and grandeur were, however, the only merits of
the range. The lofty precipices of red trap rock were
quite inaccessible.. It took a long time to convince
Mitchell of this, as he stood irresolutely peering into
the vast recesses along which the sullen thunder was
almost continually heard. At last, he turned back.
Well-wooded and enticing as the valley seemed, the
stormy rugged precipices of the summit repelled him.
He returned to the Nammoy, and made arrangements
for a permanent encampment, while he explored the
river in the canvas boat. Sending off one of the men
with despatches, he commenced his boat voyage on the
29th. But a half-day's journey convinced him that
the frail canvas boats were utterly unfit for a service of
the kind, and unfortunately the experience was purchased
by many losses, and a good deal of damage done to the
provisions. The major now tried to follow the stream
banks down along the course of the Nundawar Ranges.
For two days they kept crossing spurs of the range with
rivers between, all tributaries of the Nammoy. and then
they entered on to a very extensive plain, which seemed
boundless to the northward. They now left the river.
Though there was but very little chance of Barber's
great north-west river in such plains, yet their only
chance was to keep to the northward along them, for
as yet it was clear they were not out of reach of the
southerly watershed. The plains were pleasant travel
ling enough, if the weather had not been so hot, and the

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 369
water so scarce. In other respects, there were no
inconveniences, except a few small belts of scrub, by no
means difficult to work through. The scenery was just
what one might expect — sky and grass, with mountain
summits like clouds on the edge of the horizon, and
scattered belts of timber, like funeral processions, amidst
the white herbage.
On the 9th, the features of the country suddenly
altered, and it was evident that they were approaching
a large river. On descending a very gentle slope,
covered with long grass and fine gum trees, they came
at last upon a stream much broader than the Nammoy.
A moment's inspection confirmed Mitchell that it was
not the Kindur, as described by Barber, but evidently
the Gwyder of Cunningham. Instead, then, of finding
the great north-west river, as they had been told they
would, after crossing the range, they had found a
comparatively small one flowing south of west. It was
not much use trying to verify Barber's statements any
further, so Mitchell determined to trace this stream
down, and see where it led to. It was much like most
of the streams in this part of the world. Rich banks
clothed with gum trees, or a sandy channel, with
Acacia pendula, were the only varieties in the stream.
For twelve days it was followed down without anything
very remarkable being discovered in connection with
it, except that there was very barren land at no
great distance on either side. Mitchell then struck to
the northward, to get some idea of the nature of the
country in that direction. It was only the same scenery
over again, but without the river or any water at all,
for two days. At the end of that time he reached
another river, larger than any hitherto met — turbid,
deep, and stocked with fish.
Well, was this the Kindur ? Alas ! no. There
seemed very little question that it was the Karaula or
Darling, discovered by Sturt. At all events, Mitchell
resolved to explore it. While a boat was being built,
he went to see Avhat chance there was of sufficient
water for navigation further down. A small party was
at first . sent to remove any immediate obstructions they
vol. I. 2 B

370 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
might find near; but the report they brought back
was very unfavourable. The stream was nearly
blocked up by overhanging trees and rocky shallows.
Upon this intelligence, the major started, with six men,
to explore the river by land for nine days. The
country he passed through was very similar to what
he had already seen. Low alluvial flats, much subject
to inundation, thickly grassed, and very scrubby, with
out any elevations whatever, were the constant scenes
on every side. On the 4th February they reached the
Gwyder, and near its junction the Darling swelled into
a noble reach as wide as the Thames at Putney, deep,
and perfectly clear of fallen timber. But there could
be no doubt of two things, and they were, that the river
was the Darling, discovered by Sturt, and that it was
quite impossible to navigate it even in a small boat.
It now only remained to Mitchell to proceed to the
northward by crossing the Darling ; but this he could
not do until Mr. Finch arrived, because the rations of
the party were too low to permit any further advance
into the interior. They were obliged therefore to wait.
In the meantime they had much intercourse with the
natives, who were timid and shy, but very harmless in
their disposition. They spoke a strange dialect, wore
no clothes, and used the mogo or stone hatchet; but
they had evidently seen white men before.
At last, Mr. Finch came. He brought nothing,
however, but dismal news, which put an end to the
progress of the expedition. In journeying up along
Mitchell's track, he had been obliged to leave his two
men in camp, while he searched for water ; and when
he returned he found that the camp had been surprised,
the men murdered, and the cattle and stores taken
away. This terminated Mitchell's hopes of exploring
the country beyond the Darling. The party had now
one more to support out of the slender stock of pro
visions. The season for rain was approaching, while
they had behind two hundred miles of country liable to
inundation, without a hill or a refuge in the whole
distance, and the soil was likely to become impassable
after a few days' rain. There was nothing, therefore,

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 371
for it but to retreat. On the 8th, they journeyed back
to the Gwyder. Next day, about one hundred natives,
whose tracks they noticed following those of Mr. Finch,
came down to the camp, and became very troublesome ;
they followed for some days, making very impudent
menaces, but nothing more. On the 12th, the party
was in sight of the Nundawar Range again. By making
a straight track across the plains, they cut off ten days'
journey ; but during this part of their travels the rain
came down heavily, and the ground became such a sea
of mud that all progress was stopped. When the
weather cleared up a little, Mitchell went to the scene
of the massacre, and performed the last sad offices on the
remains of the unfortunate men. They had apparently
been murdered in their sleep and their bodies not subse
quently mutilated. The savages had taken nothing
away but the bullocks, some rations, and a little
canvas ; the most valuable of the stores were un
touched. In returning, Mitchell ascended the Nundawar
Range, and saw its connection with the west of the
dividing ridge. Oxley's Liverpool Ranges were visible
in the distance, as well as the beautiful country which
lines the banks of the Peel.* On Mitchell's arrival in
Sydney, the convict still adhered to his story, so that
when Captain Forbes, of the 39th, went to the Nam
moy with some troopers in search of a gang of bush
rangers, he was not without some hopes of finding the
Kindur. He reached the Gwyder in lat. 29° 27', and
traced a branch up to the Nundawar Range, thus
proving that any river flowing to the north coast must
do so beyond the lat. of 29°. There is just the faintest
possibility that Barber may have meant the Barcoo,.
which he traced, by way of the Thompson, to the head
of the Flinders ; but the probability is that the story
was a pure invention, very cleverly contrived, but
without any foundation whatever.
The ultimate destination of the Darling now began
to be an interesting problem to the colonists. Sturt
* The range now goes by the name of Drummond's Range, and the land
around it is one of the most flourishing pastoral districts in Australia.
2 B 2

372 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
had seen what he thought was this river coming into
the Murray ; but this was doubted by many. Major
Mitchell believed that the Macquarrie and Lachlan
belonged to different basins, and that the division
between them was a range which Oxley had seen
extending westward between these rivers. It was
obvious that this range, if continuous, must separate
the Darling from the Murray. Mitchell showed a
contempt for Sturt's observations, and very much
underrated his geographical accuracy ; but he himself
was greatly mistaken, as the sequel Avill show.
As a preliminary step to the exploration of the
river, Mr. Dixon Avas sent in October, 1833, with
instructions to trace the ranges between the Lachlan
and the Macquarrie, by proceeding westward from
Wellington Valley. This he did, however, by crossing
to the Bogan (Sturt's New Year's Creek), and having
followed the stream down for sixty-seven miles, returned
without seeing anything of the high land.
On the 9th March, 1835, Mitchell started. His
party was a very large one, and was provided with two
boats. The season was very dry, so that when they got
fairly down on to the plains, through which the western
streams run, a great difficulty was experienced in pro
curing water. Travelling through fine forest land,
they reached, on the 16th April, a creek whose course
was northward to the Bogan ; but they had to encamp
without water. On the 17th none was found, and
towards evening, the cattle being much distressed,
Major Mitchell made a hurried and unsuccessful search.
On his return to the camp, he was informed that Mr.
Cunningham, the botanist to the expedition, was
missing. This attracted very little notice at the
time, because he was often away, and the want of
water was so pressing that they had time to think
of nothing else. The major hurried on with all
the cattle to a small pool, where he was able to
satisfy their immediate wants. On his return to the
camp, Mr. Cunningham was still missing. His absence
was now alarming, so the camp was moved to some
permanent water, and a regular search commenced. It

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 373
is needless to go through all the details of the melan
choly affair. Mr. Cunningham Avas never found ; his
tracks were followed for seventy miles, and then his
horse was found dead. His whip and gloves, and
various other traces were discovered further down the
creek, but his body was not obtained. It was not until
the return of the party that the mystery was cleared
up. It appears that, after five days' wandering, he fell
in with some natives. They fed him at first, and
treated him with great kindness ; but the horrible
nature of his position overpowered his strength of
mind, and he became delirious. This sealed the poor
fellow's fate. The savages grew terrified of their
strange guest, and killed him. It is due to Major
Mitchell to state that his efforts and searches were
untiring ; and it was not until there could be no
hope of finding him alive that he moved his party on
ward. From that point, Mitchell followed down the Bogan,
which was like all the creeks described in the interior —
a chain of ponds with fertile banks, and very little good
country elsewhere. Many natives were seen, and one
having, in his terror at the sight of a white man,
thrown a boomerang at one of the explorers, received
some shots in return ; but this was the only act of hos
tility, and even its poor trembling author consented to
have his wounds dressed and cared for by Mitchell.
On the 25th May they reached the Darling. It was
easily recognised as the same river which had been
seen near the Nundawar Range. There were the same
earthy, broken banks, the same high trees, and the
same long placid reaches. Sturt had seen it not far
from this place, and its stream was salt. It was fresh
enough now, however ; in fact, no water could be
purer, or more drinkable. The bed was only two
hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. The
place where they reached it was a beautiful piece of
high land, well grassed, and lightly timbered ; it was
likewise so naturally protected, that Mitchell resolved to
make it a depot camp, while he explored down the
river with the boats. They had completed a stockade

374 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
by the 1st June, and on that day the major embarked
with fourteen men.
The exploration Avas not, however, destined to con
tinue long in that manner. A day's sailing convinced
them that the river was, like the upper part, not
navigable, even for boats. Mitchell then made an
examination on horseback, and he found that the stream
did not improve lower down. It was still continually
intersected by rocky dykes, so he broke up the depot
camp, and explored the course of the channel from the
land. The character of this long and winding stream did
not vary much, and its exploration was as monotonous
as could be well imagined. The scene generally pre
sented only two varieties — either the arid banks of the
stream, or the dense scrub which surrounded it. It was
the essence of tediousness to drag the drays along its
dreary banks, which were not only tame and dis
tressingly alike, but also so lonely and wild that the
sounds of their own voices were the only pleasure the
men had through the day. Nought seemed to disturb the
gloom, as they went further and further away from
the homes of civilization. The stream kept to the south,
but sometimes a little to the westward. The place
where Sturt had reached it was passed, and there the
river for a time was salt ; but after that its waters
diminished to such an alarming extent that Mitchell
was afraid that they Avere going to fail altogether. If
they did, further exploration would be impossible. The
land was an arid desert, not only dry, but of a nature
that never would retain any water. Amid this dismal
scene, mountains would occasionally start into view at
either side. They were flat-topped, lonely monuments,
rocky, barren, and cheerless. Sometimes there would be
a change in the banks of the stream, but only showing
the mysterious habits of the savages who inhabit these
gloomy regions. There was one place where the land
was as bare as a fallow field, for the grass had been
pulled up, and lay in heaps, like haycocks. There
were other spots where some ingenious contrivances
had been raised for catching fish, when the river was

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 375
much above the level at which the explorers saw it ;
but the season was one of extraordinary aridity, and
all seemed dry, withered, and burnt up. Mitchell made
one expedition over to the west side of the stream,
where some ranges showed that a change of country
might be expected. But there was no alteration for the
better. At first, his course lay over some very barren
land, and then he ascended a sandstone hill named
Mount Murchison. From its summit he saw other
peaked hills, and named them after geological celebrities,
but the view was over an inhospitable desert of scrub,
without any signs of grass or water.
The character of the natives inhabiting this desolate
region could not at first be judged, for they took very
good care to keep out of sight. The grave-like stillness
of the scene was broken, however, on the twenty-seventh
day after leaving Fort Bourke. A fine-looking savage
was suddenly disturbed in the scrub. His terror was
extreme at first, but he regained courage as he saw he
was unharmed, and strode away, singing a plaintive
song of defiance, all the while using threatening ges
tures, and casting dust into the air. He soon brought
his companions, who came waving green boughs, and
twisting themselves into the strangest gestures, as
though to exorcise the unnatural beings before them,
and drive them back to the place from whence they
came. They would hold no communication with the
explorers, except to spit at them and throw dust into
the air. When they had become a little tranquillized,
Mitchell imprudently fired a pistol. " As if they had
previously suspected that we were evil demons," says
Mitchell, " and had at length clear proof of it, they
repeated with tenfold fury their demoniac looks, crouch
ing, and jumping, accompanied with hideous shouts and
a war-song." They slowly retired in a circle, using
gestures of defiance, spitting, springing with their
spears, and throwing dust to the tune of their song ;
while their black faces, white teeth, and the fiendish
glare of their countenances reminded the explorers very
much of those evil spirits of which they evidently
furnished an instance to the savages.

376 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
All the natives after this were troublesome and
hostile, and so numerous that Mitchell was obliged to
desist from his explorations before he had ascertained
that the Darling did actually join the Murray. On the
11th July, when he was at a point rather more than
one hundred miles from the junction of the two rivers,
an encounter took place between his men and the
natives, which hastened his return. One of the men,
who was sent for water, was struck senseless by a blow
from the club of a native. The offender was shot, and
in the melee which ensued two other natives were killed.
This terminated the expedition. Mitchell turned back,
and very little else of interest happened to his party
until he returned to Sydney.
The observations about the Darling resulting from
this journey are worth insertion here. Mitchell says :
" From the sparkling transparency of its waters ; its
undiminished current, sustained without receiving any
tributary through a course of six hundred and sixty
miles, and especially from its being salt in some places
and fresh in others, it seems probable that the current,
when in that reduced state, Avas chiefly supported by
springs. The bed of the river is at an average below
the surface of the country. To this depth the soil
generally consists of clay, in which calcareous concre
tions and selenite occur abundantly. The country on
each side is very arid, and composed of soft clay, which
dries into numerous fissures in summer and retains no
water in winter. The marks of high flood are apparent
on the surface as far as two miles from the channel.
The western side appears. a desert, which supplies no
tributary. The average breadth of the river is fifty
yards. The fall of the country being very slight, the
velocity of the river did not exceed a mile an hour.
Some of the country on the immediate banks contained
lagoons, where reeds grew, but the plains near the river
were as clear of vegetation as a fallow field, with great
irregularity of surface and full of holes. When dry, the
soil is so loose that one sinks ankle-deep at every step,
great care being necessary to avoid cracks which would
easily contain a man's body. Back from the river, the

MITCHELL ON THE DARLING. 377
first elevation usually consisted of hillocks of red sand,
so soft and loose that the cattle could scarcely pull the
carts through. Further back still, ground consisting of
fragments, not much waterworn, of various hard rocks
appeared, forming low undulations towards the base of
more remote hills. These all were composed of very
hard sandstone."
In the above quotation all that this expedition had
discovered is stated. The other results may be briefly
alluded to. It had elucidated many points of Sturt's
former survey of the Macquarrie, and had made known
the junction of the Bogan with the Darling. As, how
ever, the junction of the latter with the Murray was not
considered established, another expedition was fitted out
soon afterwards. This will form the subject of the next
chapter.

378

CHAPTER XX.
MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX.
Expedition to the Murray — Junction with the Darling — Hostility of the
natives — Return to the Murray — The Avoca — The Grampians— Mount
Arapiles — The Wimmera — The Glenelg — Portland Bay — Sierra and
Victoria Ranges — Mount Sturgeon — The Pyrenees — Return to Sydney.
One of the most remarkable epochs in Australian ex
ploration, namely, the opening up of Australia Felix,
now ensued. This discovery placed Mitchell in the
foremost rank of explorers, and the country thus thrown
open has had more to do with the prosperity of the
colonies than any other part of Australia. But it must
not be imagined that the whole of Australia Felix was
discovered by Mitchell, or that without his co-operation
it would not soon have been colonized. About that
time the southern coast of Australia occupied very
general attention as a site for a colony, and various
attempts had been made to settle there. Thus, in 1833,
Messrs. Henty made a visit to Portland Bay, on the
extreme west of what is now the colony of Yictoria.
The year following they established a whaling station
there, which was very successful. It was from this
point that the country was explored at some little dis
tance from the coast -as far as Mount Gambier.* Its
exploration was the work of many years subsequently.
Another settlement was made in 1835. Mr. Batman,
of Tasmania, had long been applying to Governor
Arthur for permission to settle on the south coast of
Australia. This the governor was unable to give, as
he feared that his jurisdiction did not extend so far.
* One of the two volcanic mountains seen first by Grant in the Lady
Nelson. It is the most fertile tract of coast country in all Australia, but
of limited extent.

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 379
As a similar reply was anticipated from the Governor
of New South Wales, an association was formed, acting
on its own responsibility. It was arranged, in 1835,
that Mr. Batman should go across Bass's Straits, and,
having found suitable land, make a treaty with the
natives for its purchase. On the 29th May, he landed
about a dozen miles inside Port Phillip Heads. The
country was splendid — just in fact what Murray, Flin
ders, Hovell, and Hume had all said it was. Next day
he explored nearer Geelong, and found it still better.
After some conference with the natives, he landed, on
the 2nd June, in Hobson's Bay. The result of this visit,
and of a few little explorations round the Saltwater
River, the Yarra, and the Merri Creek, was that Batman
purchased, or said he purchased, six hundred thousand
acres of land from the natives for some knives, scissors,
beads, and tomahawks. Upon this, he left his followers
to commence the settlement, and returned to Tasmania
for other supplies.
The next settlement of Port Phillip was by Mr.
Fawkner, and led to some discoveries. A vessel was
fitted out by that person, which sailed from Lancaster to
Western Port in July, 1835. Fawkner was not in her.
Finding the port ineligible, the crew sailed into Port
Phillip Bay on the 15th. For some days they explored
the eastern side of the bay, and then entered the Salt
water River. This was found to be undrinkable ; but
on their return they noticed a stream opening to the
eastward of the other, and by following it they dis
covered the Yarra, and made a settlement upon the
land where Melbourne now stands.
This was the state of the colony in 1835. Towards
the close ofthe same year, Major Mitchell was sent to
complete the survey of the Darling. He had a very
large party this time, with a great number of drays and
horses, besides the same two boats sifpplied in the former
journey. On the 17th March, the party started from
the rendezvous. They first explored down the Lachlan,
for it was intended to reach the Murray, and then trace
up the Darling to where the party had formerly turned
back. The reader probably remembers the Lachlan, as

380 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
described by Oxley — a large and marshy stream, over-
floAving its banks, so as to reduce the country to a vast
morass. But it was very different now. Mitchell found
it a mere chain of ponds, and the land round it was so
dry and full of cracks that the travelling was dangerous.
He tried at once to strike direct across for the
Darling, but the country he met was an inhospitable
desert, or scrub, quite destitute of water.
In due time the party reached the Murrumbidgee,
where Mitchell formed a depot, while he went on with
a light party to explore the Darling. At the Murray
he was met by a portion of the tribe which had caused
him so much annoyance on his former journey. The
natives did not show themselves to be more forgiving
than their white brethren, and soon manifested a decided
desire to revenge some of their former losses. Mitchell
bore with their insolence and annoyance for several
days. They followed the party, and persistently
harassed their movements, so that not a thing could be
done. At last an encounter took place. The battle
was short and decisive ; seven of the natives were killed
and the rest completely routed. The tribe never
troubled them any more ; but this was not the case with
those they met further on. Besides these inconveni
ences, their course was impeded by swamps, and branches
and backwaters of the Murray. The country on either
side of the main stream was well grassed, and lightly
timbered with large box and gum trees ; but imme
diately behind this thin belt the land was of the most
arid description, being fine red sand, and densely
scrubby. These are the Murray scrubs, and, unfortu
nately, they extend much further into the interior than
Mitchell at that time suspected. When he reached the
Darling, he did not explore it back to the turning-point
of the previous journey. The country was much too
difficult for this, and the disposition of the natives too
hostile. He, however, satisfied himself that the junc
tion was that which Sturt had first pointed out, and that
its character was maintained in every particular, even
to the worthlessness of the country upon its banks until
it joined the Murray.

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 381
On the 10th June, he returned to the depot, and
then made preparations for exploring the upward course
of the Murray. This was the commencement of a really
pleasant portion of their journey. At each step the
water became more abundant, the land better, and the
scenery more beautiful, until at last the explorers
became almost bewildered at seeing such vast riches
unclaimed and unused, far surpassing anything yet
known within the limits of Australia.
On the 16th of June, the explorers left their encamp
ment and continued their travels up the left bank of
the Murray, over ground much better than any they
had seen upon the right bank. The country abounded
with kangaroo ; and well grassed plains extended as far
as the eye could reach, which was far enough, under
the bright sun and clear atmosphere of the lovely
season of their journey. It was beautiful to look down
amid the closely growing trees upon some of the arid
branches of the river. The shade of the dense under
growth would almost conceal the windings of the
water, and thus afford a shelter to every kind of game
upon its surface. Such spots, echoing only to the
sounds of the wild-fowl, or the cry of a native as
he hunted through the woods, seemed romantic and
charming to the explorers. One of these arid branches
obliged them to turn to the westward on the 17th in
order to avoid it, and they were prevented from
approaching the Murray for the rest of the day.
When they reached it again, it was flowing rapidly in
a narrow channel, and within two or three feet of the
top of the banks, with a breadth of not more than
seventy yards. Mitchell now suspected that he had
passed a junction — and so he had. Some few years
afterwards it was discovered that he had passed with
out seeing the junction of the Edward. This large
stream drains the waters of the Yanko and the Billi-
bong, and several other important creeks which
anastomose with the Murray and Murrumbidgee on
their downward course.
The country now improved, but changed its cha
racter in a very remarkable manner. On crossing

382 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the extremity of a sand-hill a few miles above the
junction, a strange view met their eyes. There was
nothing but a vast region of reeds, looking like a
prairie of bulrushes. As these extended as far as the
eye could see, there was nothing for it but to push
straight through them. It was not very difficult to do
so, for the ground was good and seemed to be much
frequented by the natives. There were lofty mounds of
ashes, showing how highly washed rush-roots were
prized by the natives ; and there were paths running
out in all directions through the forest of reeds.
Mitchell says that one remarkable difference between
the Murray and Murrumbidgee consisted in the way in
which the reeds grew upon the banks. Upon the latter
they never came down to the water's edge, but made
a fine imposing wall of green, above it was very
pleasant and characteristic to see. On the Murray they
extended back about eight miles, and were run through
with marshes and creeks, amid which the explorers
could trace the dusky faces of the savages peeping at
them over the green waving mass.
On the 20th, they reached another junction, which
they followed up. It was called the Loddon ; and,
with all the richness and all the abundance of game
upon its waters which the Murray displayed, was a
much more pleasant stream to follow, for it led due
southward. But, though rich, it was a strange country.
The river flowed through an immense plain, without a
scrap of timber of any kind upon its surface. In fact, it
did not supply them with sufficient for a camp-fire the
first night. It was about fifty yards wide, and running
with a current of more than three miles an hour.
There were numerous lakes on the east side of it, and
on all these Mitchell remarked that there were crescent-
shaped hills on the eastern side, while the west was low
and level.*
At the end of the third day of tracing the Loddon,
the explorers lost the stream, and after searching for
* I have explained in another work that these elevations are probably
owing to the effect of prevalent west winds, which drift up decayed vegetable
matter on to the east side of the lagoons.

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 383
three days over well-watered plains, found the country
so intersected with branches that it was impossible to
distinguish the main channel ; so the party rested, while
Mitchell laid down the results of his survey hitherto.
He found that the lakes were nearly all circular ; and
having no obvious connection with the river, he con
sidered that they were the remains of what the surface
was before the process of upheaval began to carry off its
waters.* They could not find the Loddon. again ; but in its
place discovered a much wider stream, which Mitchell
considered was the Murray. He did not follow it ;
the country was much too beautiful and fertile to the
southward, and as it was well watered, they con
tinued in that direction. There was a hill in the dis
tance, named Pyramid Hill, which gave a new and
splendid view when it was ascended, and threw the
hopes and desires of the explorers on to an entirely new
class of objects. Far in the distance could be seen a
fine, bold outline of rugged mountains, but, though too
remote to be more than barely visible, they announced
plainly a region different from the dividing ridge ; like
it giving rise to rivers, and like it surrounded by fertile
tracts, which they longed to explore.
For many days they travelled over lightly timbered,
undulating country, watered by beautiful streams, and
all, more or less, of soil at least fit for pasturage. As
they neared the ranges, their true proportions burst out
in all the rocky magnificence of crags and dark blue
gorges. It seemed too hazardous to venture into such a
region with wheeled carriages, so Mitchell explored the
country around to see if a passage could be found along
their edges. Thus they passed the Avoca and Avon
Rivers. The land on their banks was very good, but
they were now so accustomed to see such at every step
that it was not thought necessary to note any in parti-
* This was a very important observation, and as correct as it was credit
able to Mitchell's sagacity and penetration. An excellent illustration of the
process is seen in other parts of Australia ; between the Murray and the
Glenelg the land is not drained by any stream, and there the surface is one
continued chain of swamps or circular lakes, like those described by Mitchell
here.

384 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
cular. From a high forest hill near the last stream they
obtained a complete view of the Grampians, for that was
the name which the hills received. They were, to use
the words of the explorer, a noble range of mountains,
rising in the south to a stupendous height, and present
ing as bold and picturesque an outline as ever a painter
imagined. The highest and most eastern summit (Mount
William) was hidden in the clouds, although the even
ing was serene ; and from whatever point it was viewed
it showed the same bold, lofty front, the same circlet of
dark craggy hills around its base. It was about thirty
miles distant, and Mitchell resolved to rest the cattle,
while he made an excursion towards it. He proceeded
with six men on horseback. Three miles from the camp,
they met a deep creek, into which one of the party,
named Richardson, fell. From this accidental circum
stance it was named after him. Beyond this they en
tered one of the finest tracts of forest land they had
hitherto met, and which was intersected by numerous
tributaries of the Avon. The scenery was beautiful.
A fine forest, graceful streams, and in the background a
majestic pile of grand summits would make a beautiful
scene anywhere ; and here its charms were enhanced by
being an unbroken solitude.
Before they commenced the ascent of the mountain
they had to cross another river, named by the natives,
the Wimmera. It seemed to flow to the north-west,
and did not at ail look like a tributary of the Murray.
After a difficult and most distressing journey, they
reached the summit of Mount William ; but the day
was too far spent to return, so they passed the night
upon the mountain-top. A wretched night it was.
The height of the mountain is over four thousand feet,
so that the cold was intense, and large icicles hung
from the bushes around. The explorers had no food,
and could make no fire, so that they sat shivering and
almost perished with hunger and exhaustion. But the
morning repaid them. The view was splendour in
itself. The rugged summits of the hills underneath
were as grand as grand could be, while below them the
country lay like a panorama of wood and water, and

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 385
gentle streams ; large white lakes and swelling downs,
all varied by a thousand colours under the rising sun.
To the south the country was clear for travelling, and
thither Mitchell was very anxious to proceed; but
there were some isolated hills in the far distance west
ward which he wished to examine first.
In this direction he had to cross no less than five
branches of the Wimmera, and some were so deep that
the assistance of the boats was required. Other creeks
succeeded, and then the Wimmera again, as wide as the
Murrumbidgee, but resembling it in no other respect.
There were no waterworn banks, and no back waters,
only verdant grassy slopes, with the perpetual accom
paniment of lines of stately gum trees. Mitchell now
hoped to be able to follow this stream to the sea, but to
his surprise he found that it passed to the north of
Mount Arapiles, and seemed flowing in a northerly
direction. He imagined that it must have some
westerly exit on a hitherto unknown part of the coast ;
but its ultimate course is now known to be into Lake
Hindmarsh, and subsequently into Lake Albacutya.
Mount Arapiles was found to be a singular upheaval
of coarse sandstone, containing large waterworn quartz
pebbles interstratified in its mass. The strata seemed
to be turned on end, and stand out in bold escarp
ment on the north-western side. Its yellow and mossy
precipices, upwards of four hundred feet high, have a
bold, wild, and most picturesque appearance. Mitchell
saw the bed of the Wimmera trending away northward,
and as he could not observe signs of any other stream
to the westward, he concluded that this hill divided the
fluvial from the undrained country. This was a
shrewd and most accurate surmise. There is, in fact,
no stream of any kind to be met with from thence west
ward to the coast — a distance of over 120 miles, in the
straightest possible line. The country, however, is
covered with swamps and lagoons, and forms an area
of about 250 miles long, and 70 miles wide.
From Mount Arapiles, Mitchell saw that the Gram
pians were continued by another range, which he named
after' the Queen. He saw that he could not well pass
vol. i. 2 c

386 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA
to the east from where he was as yet, so he continued
south-west. On the 25th he renewed his journey over
a uniform country of good soil, with Casuarina and
gum trees abounding. It was not such rich land as the
flowery pastures of the Avoca and Avon ; but still it
was good enough for pastoral purposes, and better far
than any one would have thought of finding in Australia,
so far away from any mountain system. On the last
day of July they came suddenly upon another river —
broad rapid and deep. It was evidently quite discon
nected with the other waters, for its course was to
the south-west, and its bed cut very deep down into the
soft tableland. It was named the Glenelg. Where its
waters were first seen the width was 125 yards, and
the boats were required to ferry the party over. When
they were launched, Mitchell thought it would be a
good opportunity to use them for the further explora
tion of the stream. Nine miles' journey, however, con
vinced him that it would save time to explore by land.
He accordingly returned to his companions, and all
continued to move down the stream together.
And now commenced the journey through the valley
of the Glenelg, one of the most beautiful portions of
Australia. One is stopped at every sentence in
Mitchell's narrative with exclamations about the rich
ness of the soil, and the loveliness of the scene. There
was, however, one sad drawback to the novelty of their
position. The weather was wet, and the country was
boggy, so that the labours of the cattle were fearful, and
the daily journeys proportionately short. The difficulty
at last became so great that the major rode on in
advance to look for some better path ; in doing so he
discovered one of the most beautiful valleys in all
Australia — the vale of the Wannon. " I had not," he
says, "proceeded more than about five miles to the
southward when I perceived before me a ridge in the
bluey distance, which was rather an unusual object in
that close country. We soon emerged from the ridge,
and found that we were on a kind of tableland, and
approaching a deep ravine coming from our right, and
terminating in a fine open country below, watered by a

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 387
winding river. We descended by a bold feature to the
bottom of the ravine, and found there a foaming little
river hurrying downwards over the rocks. After this
we ascended a very steep but grassy mountain-side
beyond it, and on reaching a brow of high land, what a
noble prospect appeared ! A river winding among
meadows, fully a mile broad, and green as an emerald.
Above them rose swelling hills of fantastic shapes; but
all were smooth and richly covered with grass. Behind
these were higher hills, having grass on their sides, and
trees on their summits, extending throughout the land
scape as far as the eye could reach, forming a country
surpassing in beauty and richness any yet discovered."
Thus far the major. From my own experience, I can
testify that there is no place like it for richness and
beauty in all Australia. Three rivers — the Wando,
Wannon, and Steep Bank Creek, join the Glenelg.
They all of them cut a deep and sloping channel into
the tableland. The slopes at each side are rendered
gently undulating by the drainage of little creeks and
mountain-rills, and as all are covered with a turf as
close as a garden lawn, of the most lovely bright green,
with black-looking trees, the scene looks like a gentle
man's park in England. But from the summit of the
tableland, as Mitchell says, the beauty is most surpris
ing. The mammillated hills in the valleys, the flat
summits of the dividing ridges, thickly clothed with
forest, the dells and gullies in every variety, fading
into a confused mass, through which a silver stream
seems to twist itself, make a peaceful, lovely prospect,
becoming daily more beautiful as it becomes more
studded with villages and signs of agriculture.
Of course, such gullies and hills, however pleasant
to look at, were very difficult to travel over. It was
not alone having to haul the carts and baggage up the
steep banks, and to lower them down on the other side ;
but there were many streams and rivulets to cross,
and the ground was so soft that the drays and bullocks
were getting bogged at every inch. The country, in
fact, was like a morass, and the tops of the hills in this
respect were just as bad as the valleys. At last,
2 c 2

388 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Mitchell became tired of this floundering and dragging.
From the top of a range, named the Rifle Range, he
could see Mount Gambier in the dim distance to the
south-west, so he knew that he could not be very far
from the coast. The river was now broad and navi
gable for his boats, and as this offered the easiest and
most expeditious mode of exploring it, a dep6t was
formed at the junction of a small river, and Mitchell
embarked upon its waters. He took with him sixteen
men and both the boats, so that no time might be lost
or unnecessary fatigue incurred. At first, their pro
gress was stopped a good deal by dead timber, but the
stream soon widened out with fine reaches. The banks
were very heavily timbered until near the mouth, where
they formed high cliffs of fossiliferous limestone, very
much like the river Murray. The scenery near these
precipitous sides was very romantic. The tops of the
rocks were timbered with dense and tangled brushwood,
and the river became narrow between them, dark and
deep, throwing a mysterious air of gloom over the
silent, lonely waters. This part of the river was all that
was interesting about it. It opened out near its mouth
into shallow sandy flats, or salt marsh, flanked with
irregular bushy sand-hills, and when the mouth was dis
covered it was closed by a sandy bar, over which a
very heavy surf was beating.
Mitchell was very much disappointed at this termi
nation. He had anticipated a fine navigable outlet on
a sheltered part of the coast, but there was not even a
boat harbour. Pie passed along the lonely sands, and
found one or two marks of European visits,or probably,
the remains of wrecked vessels, but no other signs of
human inhabitants. The sand-hills seemed as if they
had done nothing but echo the roaring of the surf or
the moaning of the wind since they were first created.
When they got back to the depot, Mitchell made an
other descent towards the west to explore Portland Bay.
His journey was still over boggy, soft ground, but at
the same time through a magnificent forest. The huge
tall gum trees were growing straight as an arrow, and
Avithout a branch until sixty or seventy feet from the

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 389
ground. Underneath was a rich carpet of moss and
decayed vegetation, for the growth of the trees was
thick enough to make the shade even gloomy. Rushes,
scrub, delicate acacias and ferns, were as thick as they
could be, and in the crevices and gullies fern trees spread
out their graceful foliage like palms in a tropical forest.
When the sea was reached, the men found many signs
of European visits, much more indeed than in Dis
covery Bay, at the mouth of the Glenelg. At the
extreme east of the bay some curious rocks were noticed
on the land, which attracted notice at the time. But
when a small ship was discovered at anchor, and fresh
foot-marks found upon the sand, the rocks were seen to
be houses. This was the settlement of Messrs. Henty.
It may be easily imagined with what joy and surprise
these two companies of pioneers met in the wilder
ness. It was not without its risks, however. Mitchell
was obliged to approach the settlement very carefully,
for his armed party might easily have been mistaken
for bushrangers, and fired upon as they approached.
Having rested a few days at Henty 's, and recruited
his stores, Mitchell set out again on his way home.
His course was first to reach the foot of the Grampians,
and then to strike in an east and northerly direction for
Sydney. His way led through another fine forest and
over two streams, now known as the First and Second
Ri\Ters. There were two mountains which he had seen
upon his left on his way down, and these he was anxious
to examine. They were named Mount Eeles and Mount
Napier. The first lay in his route, but was not of much
importance ; the second was almost impossible to reach,
because of an immense swamp which seemed to come
from it. The country, as usual, was boggy in the
extreme. Finding that their greatest difficulty was in
dragging the boat, they determined to abandon it, and
keep the small one alone for whatever rivers they
might have to cross. While the carriage was being
altered for the purpose, at a place near the present town
of Branksholme, Mitchell made a visit to Mount Napier.
He found it to be an extinct volcano, with an old stream
of stony lava extending miles into the interior from its

390 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
summit. He now saw that to the south of the Gram
pians there was another range of mountains extending.
These were called the Sierra Ranges, terminating in two
fine elevations, named respectively Mount Sturgeon
and Mount Abrupt. Between these and Mount Napier
were lovely plains, highly timbered, and supporting in
the centre a splendid fresh-water lake. Nothing could
be more picturesque than the scene, which is now the
most flourishing agricultural district in Victoria. To
the west was a shady piece of woodland with Mounts
Pierrepoint and Bainbrigge jutting above. It now
encloses the largest inland towns in Western Victoria.
All that Mitchell in his raptures of admiration described
as green pastures seemed very much the richer for
being surrounded with the grand outlines of the Sierra
Ranges. The Mount Sturgeon plains were found, as usual,
boggy ; indeed, this seems to be a certain consequence .
of rich soil in the winter throughout Australia. There
were places where the travelling was easier, that is
where the basaltic rocks protruded out of the subsoil ;
but these were changes very slightly for the better.
Mitchell, of course, ascended Mount Abrupt. After the
description of so many mountain views the reader will
get tired of them probably, if they are often repeated.
Suffice it to say that the scene was almost as sublime
from this mountain as from Mount William. It was a very
bright and clear day, and the summits of the hills were
revealed clearly all around in the finest array of rugged
magnificence. What gives these ranges an aspect more
peculiarly their own is that they are like a series of
square ledges sloping down on their west sides in
gentle declivities, and exposing fine stony escarpments
to the eastward. From the east side the peaks look like
the teeth of a saw, and from the south like a series of
terraced slopes.
Mitchell could see the ocean from Mount Abrupt,
but what interested him most was the appearance of the
country in the direction in which their journey lay.
There he saw a vast extent of open downs, and could
trace their undulations to where they joined a range of

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 391
mountains of apparently easy access. The straightest
line passed just under a bluff about fifty miles off, and
there was a good road to it, by avoiding many reedy lakes.
It was found, however, that the country was much softer
than usual, and as the cattle were quite exhausted by
their recent exertions, he resolved to divide the party.
Leaving half here with the cattle, to recruit, he intended
to push on, and then send out assistance to the others as
they advanced.
On the 19th September all the arrangements were
completed, and Mitchell started with a small party.
The rest of the journey is very easily described. At
first, the country was lightly wooded, and they crossed
a small river, named the Hopkins. After this it opened
out into enormous plains like prairies, with nothing but
grass and salt lakes upon them. The scenery was still
fine. Of course, there could not be much beauty where
there was nothing but treeless plains, but the distant
mountains still lent their charm to the prospect. When
the plains were ended, they had to cross a range which
extended to the southward, and broke into bold ravines
on the eastern side, being also connected with noble
mountains in the distance, all grassed to their summits.
These were the Australian Pyrenees ; not probably so
high as their namesakes of Spain, but certainly richer.
On their flanks have been discovered the most abundant
gold mines that the world can show. Had Mitchell
known the riches beneath his feet, his raptures of admi
ration would have found another object. But there was
only the view to see then. He could trace the Dividing
Range which Hume and Hovell had crossed eleven years
before, and to one of the highest hills which had cost
them so much difficulty to pass he gave the name of
Mount Macedon. From its summit he saw Port Phillip,
and was near enough to distinguish something like tents
upon its northern point. Was this Batman's Settle
ment ?
Returning to the beautiful slopes of the ranges
which he called Eden, but which now have a world
wide reputation as the Cluness, Daisy Hill, and Castle-
maine Diggings, Mitchell found, some beautiful falls in

392 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
a river called the Barnard. They were fine rocky pre
cipices, over which the stream came tumbling in a pretty
cascade. This river was a branch of the Campaspe,
which was afterwards crossed. Beyond this they tra
versed open plains again. Some natives had been seen
at intervals, and all more or less troublesome, but the
party had found no difficulty in getting rid of them.
Amongst some they met were articles of European
manufacture, especially an old razor, probably a part of
the purchase-money which Batman had given for the
land. In one instance, their troublesome visitants were
dispersed in a singular and novel manner, from which
other explorers might usefully take a lesson. Some of
the men found the savages sneaking upon the camp at
night-time, and to scare them, Mitchell made use of
two masks he had with him. These were put on two of
the men, and they advanced towards the natives with
burning bluelights in their hands, while rockets were
let off by their companions, and a dismal noise inade
under the cart with a speaking-trumpet. The plan suc
ceeded marvellously, and the blacks were so terrified
that they never came near the explorers afterwards.
From this point the journey was over the alluvial
flats through which the rivers discovered by Hume and
Hovell drain towards the Murray. The scenery was a
monotonous series of plains, very rich, but boggy, and
watered by such streams as the Goulburn, the Ovens,
and the King. Some few ranges intervened, but they were
mere granite ridges, not very remarkable. On the 17th
October, after crossing a range, they reached the Mur
ray again, somewhere about the present site of Albury.
Here the river was so swollen that it took them two
days to cross, and even then not without some risk and
the loss of one bullock. They then sank the boat and
boat>carriage, in order to leave it for the party behind,
but one of the men, with the carpenter, very nobly
volunteered to go back and meet them, to show them
the route and to construct rafts. This offer was imme
diately accepted, . and full rations issued to the men,
though they could ill be spared at the time.
On the 21st, the remainder of the party journeyed

MITCHELL DISCOVERS AUSTRALIA FELIX. 393
towards a hill, Avhich they named Mount Trafalgar.
From its summit a range was seen bounding, as Mitchell
hoped, the Murrumbidgee. But it did not ; and instead
of it an extremely mountainous country extended be
yond. The river was not reached until the 23rd, and
meanwhile their difficulties had been so great and their
rations so small that they had to kill a bullock. The
Murrumbidgee was flowing to the westward, over a
gravelly bottom, its scenery being highly embellished
by lofty Casuarina trees, whose drooping masses of the
darkest green shade the waters so gracefully. Though
this was lower down upon the river than any settler had
hitherto penetrated, the explorers could see plenty of
cattle tracks about. At length, to their joy, they dis
covered a small house and station. On riding up to it,
an old man came to the door, beating the ashes off a
loaf. He received them all most cordially when his
surprise subsided. Just then several drays appeared on
the opposite side, coming along the road from Sydney,
and from these the party were accommodated with
enough supplies for their wants and those of their
companions left behind.
Here concludes Mitchell's journey. He had carried
his party over a distance of two thousand four hundred
miles, amid the finest region that ever fell to the lot of
any explorer to discover. While every credit must be
given to him for good management, something must
also be attributed to good luck. If he had been two
months later the glory Avould have been taken from his
hands. As it is, his name has become connected, and
most justly, with the richest inheritance of the con
tinent. It is called Australia Felix to this day.
This journey also discovered a new river and moun
tain system, which lies inside the great circle of streams'
sweeping westward from the tableland. The whole
chain is a most important feature, and to its influence
the rich country discovered by Mitchell is entirely owing.
The mountains consist of three ranges extending over
nearly a degree of latitude and twenty miles of longi
tude. The extreme eastern and highest summit is
Mount William, four thousand five hundred feet above

394 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the sea. The most northern and elevated range ex
tends from Mount William to Mount Zero, and is
steepest on the northern side. From this two other
ranges branch off to the south, the western being called
the Victoria Range, and the eastern the Sierra, from its
serrated appearance. It is a singular fact, that while a
great many of the waters from these hills drain to the
south-west, some are lost in the Murray scrubs, and
others drain into the Murray.

395

CHAPTER XXI.
EARLY EXPLORATIONS ROUND ADELAIDE AND MELBOURNE.
Settlement of Melbourne — Establishment of South Australia — Early explora
tions there — Lake Alexandrina and the Murray mouth — Hawdon overland,
from Sydney to Adelaide — Eyre traces down the Wimmera — Bonney from
Portland to Adelaide — Henty to Mount Gambier.
The news of Mitchell's discoveries acted like magic
throughout Australia. Every person who could muster
a few hundred sheep was off to find a run for them
amid the recently explored country. The home Go
vernment discouraged the exodus, as it was much averse
to the establishment of new and distant settlements,
which increased the expense of administration and de
stroyed the centralization they were anxious to keep up.
One must see, nevertheless, that a large development
of the resources of the country should be the first con
sideration, and of far more importance than any of
these objects. In 1837, however, the colony might be
considered to have secured a footing. I need not dwell
upon the manner in which the rival claims of Batman
and Fawkner were disposed of. The sales alleged to
have been made by the natives were not recognised,
and the land was surveyed and sold. It will be useless,
likewise, to attempt to describe how the country around
Port Phillip was surveyed and explored. Many of the
records of private exploration are irretrievably lost, and
those which are retained are so numerous and various
that it would require volumes to enter into the details
of each one in particular.
About this time, also, the colony of South Australia
was established. Colonel Light was despatched by the
South Australian Commissioners, in March, 1836, to

396 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
choose and survey the site for a capital on the shores of
St. Vincent's Gulf. A large number of emigrants were
already settled at Kangaroo Island, which, in spite of
Flinders' encouraging description, was found quite
unfit for colonization. Colonel Light proceeded to a
shallow creek on the east side of Gulf St. Vincent.
Eight miles further inland he fixed the site of what is
now the city of Adelaide. Governor Hindmarsh arrived
with emigrants in December, 1836, and having united
his party with those who were on Kangaroo Island, the
landing and declaration of the colony took place on the
28th of the same month. As in the case of Melbourne,
I shall not enter into the particulars of the small explo
rations made by different settlers, but merely allude to
those which include the discovery of new features.
Besides, it is easy to see at a glance all there was to
discover in South Australia. Adelaide was founded on
the plains which lie between the Flinders range and
the sea. North and south the plains continue, but on
the south side spurs of the mountains soon close in
upon the sea. Explorations in the plains could only
lead to the discovery of new rivers and creeks, and in
the mountains new valleys and fertile glens. Of course
these abounded. Every journey revealed some new
feature of nature ; every explorer came back exulting
over the new and varied scenes which the land afforded.
A fine spur from the ranges was found to strike out
northward, about thirty miles from Adelaide. This was
the Barossa Range ; the best testimony to whose rich
ness is the great number of farms and settlements which
are found upon it now.
The first persons who explored over the range to
Lake Alexandrina were Messrs. Cock and Finlayson.
They discovered many islands in the basin which had
been mistaken by Sturt, for the main shore. The
largest and principal of them was called Hindmarsh
Island, after the governor. They discovered also the
Hindmarsh River, and, in returning, came across an
other stream. Its banks were well grassed, open forest
land, which continued rich and fertile right up to the
slopes of the mountains. To use the words of one of

EARLY EXPLORATIONS. 397
the party, they often stopped to gaze with wonder and
delight at the richness ofthe country around them.
It was early an important object with the colonists
to ascertain whether there was any outlet for the
Murray, besides the one seen by Sturt and Barker.
Messrs. Strangways and Hutchinson were chosen for
the purpose, in December, 1837. They succeeded in
taking a cart the whole way, drawn only by two oxen ;
but the hills were so rugged and precipitous, and the
ravines so deep, at the southern extremity of the
Mount Lofty range, that they were sometimes obliged
to unload the carts, and having assisted the bullocks by
ropes, carried over the provisions themselves. When
they reached Encounter Bay, they proceeded into the
Murray mouth, in a whale-boat. The result of the sur
vey was, to prove beyond a doubt that there was no
opening to the river except the narrow channel first
seen by Sturt. This narrow inlet is not always open,
but even when it is, the constant surf, breaking at least
a quarter of a mile from the beach, renders it utterly
unnavigable to any but small steamers of very shallow
draught. During the examination of Lake Alexandrina,
a large salt-water arm was found to extend to the south
ward. This was called Coorong by the natives, and is
a singular feature, whose character will best be seen
from the map.
Messrs. Strangways and Hutchinson met at En
counter Bay two men, who told them that they had
recently arrived at the mouth of the Murray, by walk
ing along the coast from the western side of Cape
Otway ; their only provision for this long journey was
flour, and this was carried by a horse they had with
them. The journey occupied about six weeks. They
met very few natives, and no stream too deep for them
to ford, until they came to the Murray. This, of course,
was a very important fact ; and while it confirmed
Mitchell's exploration, was decisive as to the non-exist
ence of any large outlet on the south coast. The
Murray could not be passed so easily, so the men traced
round the shores of the lake for some distance, and then
constructed a raft, and abandoned their horse. The

398 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
raft was pushed across by means of a long pole, about
fifteen feet in length. They were all day crossing, and
during the whole time up to their waists in water.
The names of these intrepid pioneers are lost ; but the
raft was still swimming in the lake when Mr. Strang
ways passed, and confirmed the truth of their story.
On returning to the place where they had left the cart,
they were joined by Sir John Jeffcott, Captain Blenkin-
sopp, and some others. The exploring party left the
channel in safety, but this was not the case with the
others. The second boat had nearly passed all the
breakers when it filled in the surf, and Sir J. Jeffcott,
Captain Blenkinsopp, and two of the boat's crew were
drowned. Sir J, Jeffcott was a judge in the colony,
and he was well known in England in connection with
a fatal duel in 1830.
These were not the only explorations about this
time in the neighbourhood of the three colonies.
Messrs. Hawdon and Gardiner were the first who
brought cattle overland from New South Wales to Port
Phillip, and very shortly after, the former gentleman
successfully drove stock from Sydney to Adelaide. The
Murray River made these journeys a matter of very
little difficulty, with regard to water ; but the natives
were extremely troublesome, and it was a great feat to
bring cattle safely through the midst of these hostile
tribes. The first journey overland, from Portland Bay to
Adelaide, was made by Mr. Bonney with cattle, in
March, 1839. After leaving the Glenelg, on a westerly
course, the country was found to decline into a flat
sandy level, extending as far as the eye could reach.
Beyond this, a singular tract succeeded. The country
was a chain of swamps, occasionally as much as ten
miles wide, and divided by hills of Casuarina and
Eucalyptus, with fine grass all round. The swamps
were covered with reeds, and were quite dry there
upon the surface ; but by digging a few feet, abundance
of fresh water could always be obtained. Expecting
the good country to continue northward, Mr. Bonney
changed his course to north-west, and after five days'

EARLY EXPLORATIONS. 399
travelling, the scenery changed its character. Grass
and water became more difficult to obtain. The cattle
were then driven towards the coast, and a fine fresh
water marsh, named Lake Hawdon, was discovered.
This was the first of a series of features of the kind,
extending beyond Lacepede Bay. From that point,
however, water was not easily obtained, and in pene
trating through the dense scrub which surrounds Lake
Alexandrina, the party were so distressed for want of
water, that they had to kill some of the cattle, and
drink their blood. This journey showed that there
was available land between Portland and the Murray,
even though no river emptied itself upon the coast in
the interim, except the Glenelg. A little to the east of
Bonney' s route, very fertile pastoral country has been
found, which is known as the south-eastern district of
South Australia. In the southern point of it occurs the
volcanic mountains Gambier and Schanck, which were
first seen by Grant, in the Lady Nelson. These were
settled upon from Portland, and, as already stated,
form one of the richest agricultural tracts in Australia.
It is terminated northwards by the Mosquito Plains,
and these by the tract known as the Tatiara country.
The latter is bounded by an impenetrable scrub, which
continues, as far as known, right up to the Murray
River. Mr. Eyre, whose name was subsequently connected
with, the most important explorations in South Aus
tralia, was one of the first who took cattle overland
from Port Phillip to Adelaide. His journey led to one
remarkable discovery, and that was with regard to the
Wimmera, the source of which had so much puzzled
the colonists since the time of Mitchell. The major, it
will be remembered, had first crossed the river near
Mount William, and instead of flowing towards the
south coast, as anticipated, he had seen it take a north
west course from Mount Arapiles. Now, as there was
no stream joining the Murray in that direction at all
corresponding with the size of the Wimmera, the ques
tion was, what became of it ? It was to Eyre that the
colony owed the solution of the problem.

400 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
He left Port Phillip in February, 1838, intending
to strike across the interior of the country, and thus
avoid the many disadvantages of tracing down the
Murray. After crossing Mount Alexander, he passed
for the first hundred and fifty miles through a fine
country, watered by many channels running to the
north-west. So far the cattle did well, and no difficulty
was experienced. But the creeks soon began to fail.
To Eyre's great disappointment, he found that they
ran out on very extensive plains divided by narrow
hills of pine, and forming a perfectly level country
without any signs of water. A river was looked for in
vain, that would take him across this tract, and after
the cattle had been exposed to considerable privations,
in making a search for water, Eyre decided on tracing
down the Wimmera, feeling convinced that it must be
the Lindsay which Sturt had noticed joining the'
Murray on the south side. With this view he followed
Mitchell's course to the south-west, passing close under
the Grampians, until he reached the stream. From the
point at which Mitchell left it, he traced it in a north
westerly direction to lat. 36° 8', where it emptied itself
into a large fresh-water lake, about forty miles in circum
ference. It was named Lake Hindmarsh. The country
through which the river ran was very sandy, and the
land around it barren. From Lake Hindmarsh he
could discover no watercourse to the north or west,
though a laborious and anxious search was continued
for three weeks. During this time he attempted, with
two companions, to penetrate to the Murray or Lindsay,
through a country thickly covered with scrub, and with
absolutely no grass. After travelling four days, and
penetrating upwards of a hundred miles, the horses
could proceed no further for want of food and water.
Indeed, the animals were too far gone to return, and
the explorers had to regain their camp by a terribly
arduous journey on foot.
This journey decided the impracticability of the
route Eyre had chosen. It was ascertained that no
body of water from the Grampians was sufficient to
reach the Murray. It had since been found that

EARLY EXPLORATIONS. 401
another lake extends beyond Lake Hindmarsh, and
that even beyond this there is a chain of shallow lagoons
for many miles ; but it can only be in very extra
ordinary seasons that they act as a channel to the
Murray; and no such season has yet been seen by the
Europeans settled there.
Finding it impossible to proceed on the line he had
chosen, Eyre was obliged to return to the route fol
lowed by Hawdon, and so reached Adelaide in safety.

vol. I. 2d

402

CHAPTER XXII.
GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST -COAST.
Expedition to Hanover Bay — Landing upon the coast — Terrible adventures —
Fresh survey of the interior — Arrival of the ponies — Dreadful weather —
Animals begin to die— Commencement of the journey — Encounter with
the natives — Grey wounded — River Glenelg — Basaltic tableland — Painted
caves — Failure of the expedition — Return.
In 1836, while Batman was settling at Port Phillip, and
Mitchell's discoveries were progressing, Captain Grey,
of the 83rd, and Lieutenant Lushington, addressed a
letter to Lord Glenelg, then Secretary for the Colonies,
offering to conduct an expedition from Swan River to
the northward, in order to ascertain definitely whether
any large river emptied itself upon the west or north
west side. Guided by a recommendation from the
Royal Geographical Society, the Government accepted
the offer, and the following instructions were given : —
They were to embark in the Beagle, then fitting out for
a survey of the coasts of Australia, and, proceeding to
the Cape, were there to hire a vessel. They were then
to land somewhere near Prince Regent's River, on the
northern coast, and having examined the country, were
to take a course in the direction of the great open
ing behind Dampier Land, and thus journey to the
Swan. Acting on these instructions, they left the Cape in
the Lynher schooner, in October, 1837. The expedition
consisted of twelve men, with thirty-one sheep, nine
teen goats, and six dogs. Their plan was to proceed
to Hanover Bay, and, having landed the stores, to
despatch the schooner to Timor for ponies, and when

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 403
these arrived, to proceed to the interior. On the 2nd
December they reached Port George the Fourth, and
anchored at sunset off Entrance Island. Grey admits
that the aspect of the shore discouraged him. Its barren,
stony red cliffs have been described as desolate in con
nection with the surveys of King. Those were made
nearly twenty years previously, but the stones were no
better now. The only reason for which this part of the
coast had been selected was the abundance of fresh
water, which had been described as falling in cascades
from the crevices in the sandstone.
The next day, as they were becalmed, Grey was
anxious to examine the shore a little more closely. He
burned to commence his explorations, and, regardless
of his being quite unused to a tropical climate, and
thinking nothing of salt-water inlets and hostile savages,
he conceived the mad idea of Avalking round the beach,
and meeting the schooner at the bottom of the bay.
His proposal was accepted by the captain, and he landed
with a few men and some dogs. Scarcely had the boat
returned, when he found out his mistake. The day
was clear and hot, and the sun threw down a scorching
heat upon the fiery red rocks around them. Cooped up
in a vessel for many months, as they had been, they
could not walk far in a temperate region ; but here,
where the stones and sands were so hot that one could
scarcely walk upon them,* where not a breath of
wind freshened the air, nor a single tree gave them
shelter, one can easily imagine what their sufferings
soon were. But this was not all. The surface was the
red sandstone, so cracked and broken, so fissured and
piled that it was like climbing a ruin ; and amid the
stone grew tangled brushwood and spinifex grass,
hiding the crevices so that men and dogs fell into them
at every step. It was easy to see that this could not
continue long. Grey discovered his mistake too late,
and now the schooner was out of sight and hearing.
All he could do was to make towards some shady spot,
and there rest until evening. But such a spot he
* This is perfectly true. Even in Adelaide, on a hot summer's day, you
could no more take up a stone and hold it than you could a piece of red-hot iron.
2 D 2

404 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
could not find. Meanwhile the heat began to tell upon
them terribly as soon as their scanty stock of water was
exhausted. First the dogs gave in ; some disappeared
mysteriously in the cracks, and others dropped down
dead. Then the men also began to drop behind. With
the greatest difficulty they were brought along to a little
pool of water in a picturesque valley, and there the
party rested for a while. But their difficulties were
only commencing. When they attempted to move on
again, the men were so enfeebled that they could only
advance at a rate Avhich Avould take them nearly three
days to reach the vessel. This would never do, for
their lives depended upon their reaching the anchorage
that night. Every resource was tried. They plunged
into the sea, and essayed every other means in vain to
refresh themselves. It was of no use. At last Grey
started in advance with one companion, intending to
send out assistance from the schooner. Here a new
obstacle arose. At a mile and a half his progress was
stopped by an arm of the sea about five hundred yards
wide, out of which the tide was sweeping like a torrent.
What to do now Grey was at a complete loss to know.
He had never thought of such dangers beforehand, and
the madness of his project came very reproachfully
before him. His companion could not swim, and for
Grey to go alone seemed very hazardous. To say
nothing of the danger from sharks and alligators, there,
was a native perched upon the rocks on the opposite
side, and where he was, more might be. But Grey's
resolution was soon taken. He must render assistance
to his companions, so he resolved to cross. He stripped
to his shirt, and with his military cap upon his head,
and a pistol in his hand for defence, he plunged in.
All the protection the pistol was likely to afford was
soon destroyed, for the current was so impetuous that it
became a struggle for life with Grey, and the weapon
was abandoned. Then the cap caught so much water
that the chin-strap would have choked him, had he not
abandoned that too. After a fearful struggle, the waves
threw him upon the opposite shore. Wounded and
exhausted, he clambered up the rocks with nothing in

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 405
the world about him but his shirt, and just in time to
hear the war-cry of the savages close to where he lay.
Fortunately, it was nearly dark. He managed to
secrete himself in a crevice, not daring to show his head,
or to look around and see where his companions or the
schooner might be. His position was a trying one, but
nature could bear no more, and in spite of his danger
he fell asleep upon the rocks— a very different spectacle
from what he had presented when he started in the
morning. From this position he was rescued by a boat
from the schooner about ten at night ; and thus ter
minated his first adventure in Australia.
After this little piece of experience, Grey became
more cautious. His first care was to search for a
landing-place, but this was not found so easily. The
only openings on this part of the coast are narrow
gorges, which open into large basins at some distance
inland. The sides are lofty and precipitous ; red sand
stone, of course, and covered as thickly as possible with
a dense tropical vegetation. Landing-places in such
localities were not readily seen. The huge and irre
gular piles of rocks were obstacles in some places, in
others, the trees were as impenetrable as a stone wall.
All was very romantic and beautiful, but that was not
what was wanted. Where the water occurred, the high
cliffs softened the sun's glare, so that it shone with a
sort of mysterious gloom over the dark green tropical
foliage. It was amid such cliffs that King had found
the cascades ; but they were all dry now, and only the
crevices in the sandstone strata marked where they had
formerly flowed. Amid such shady ravines and cool
sandstone grottos, Grey searched for a landing-place
until the 5th. He found one at last. It was a narrow
gorge, bound by high cliffs, and sheltering a limpid
stream. The chasm looked like a street, for it was
little more than two chains wide, and seemed even
narrower from the height of the cliffs. It was about
four miles long. Many branch ravines ran out on each
side, differing only from the main valley in being
narrower. They were all well grassed.
By the 16th December, all the stores Avere landed, and

406 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
the schooner started to Timor for the ponies. Grey
then made a preliminary exploration into the interior.
To facilitate the comprehension of these explorations,
it must be again repeated, that this part of the coast
is one where the tableland abuts upon the ocean.
It is a soft ferruginous sandstone, upon which the sea
and fresh water act readily. Thus chasms, and ravines,
and gorges are cut out, some of them no wider than
the necessities of the stream require ; others, due, no
doubt, to the force with which they were upheaved.
Grey found, as he ascended the ravine, that the walls
became higher and higher, until, at lastj they formed
grand precipices on each side between 300 and 400 feet
high. It was not easy to find a path to the top of such
cliffs ; but with some difficulty Grey got to the summit
of the tableland. It was a sandy forest, where lofty
trees spread their foliage above, and the cruel spinifex
grass expanded its prickles below. The tableland had
been higher at one time. Grey found upon its sum
mit isolated pillars of sandstone, all of the same height.
The mode in which the surrounding rock had been cut
away was very easily explained. Underneath the surface
there were innumerable water-channels for the drainage
of the tropical rains, and these had cut passages like
galleries, divided into caves or separated by pillars of
sandstone. The tableland was also much cut into by
ravines, which caused the party a good deal of descend
ing and climbing. Thus travelling up and down, they
reached to where the pillars of sandstone, on the summit,
united to form another cliff, and then they found that
their journey would be over a series of terraces before
they got to the interior. In returning, they were
attacked by the natives, and though no blood was shed
on either side, they got an idea of the character of these
savages, whose hostility has been testified by every
explorer. Another expedition was made on the .6th January,
to examine the land lying betweenPortGeorge theFourth
and Hanover Bay. It consisted of a low neck of rock
which connects the peninsula with the main. It is
bounded on the two sides by the sea, and on the land

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 407
side by cliffs ; with a narrow terrace which runs along
them in the direction of Camden Sound.
The Lynher returned with the ponies on the 17th
January, and they were soon landed. The next few
days were occupied in breaking them in to the pack-
saddles. But here commenced the troubles and fatali
ties of the expedition. The animals were found very
difficult to manage, and, what was worse, the climate
seemed to affect them. They commenced to sicken and
die very fast, and a similar result occurred among the
sheep. In the midst of these troubles, the rainy season
set in. The weather became wet and stormy. Deluges
of rain fell every day with thunder-storms, such as are
only seen in a tropical climate. The torrent by which
the party were encamped swelled rapidly. At. first, a
fallen tree served as a bridge, but this was soon swept
away, and both men and animals were confined to one
side of the valley. Then was seen, in all its magnifi
cence, the effect of rain upon the crevices, caves and
galleries of the sandstone. Cascades poured forth from
the whole faces of the cliffs, tearing down the brush
wood, and falling with a constant roar ; often bringing
over huge blocks of stone, which tumbled, crashing like
thunder, into the valley. Amid such scenes, Grey was
obliged to sit down inactive in the camp, while every
day brought dismal intelligence of some new deaths
among the sheep and horses.
At last, he was able to make a start. From the very
reduced number of his ponies, a great deal of the stores
had to be left behind ; and even with the lessened loads
the poor weakened animals could scarcely be made to
get along. Some died under their burdens ; others lay
down, and no exertions could get them pn their feet
again. As a last resource, another reduction was made
in the baggage, and half was sent on at a time. Thus
they proceeded until the 11th January, trying to cross
the tableland. It was the custom of Grey to go in ad
vance, with two companions, to mark out the line they
were to follow. While he was thus engaged, and far
beyond the main party, the natives made an attack upon
him. It was easy for them to conceal themselves be-

408 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
hind the sandstone pillars until their prey were fairly
within their toils, so that they came upon the explorers
like a thunder-clap, and in a moment surrounded them.
There was no mistaking their intentions, and no time
for parley. Grey fired one shot over their heads, but
that did not intimidate them. Spears came flying round
thick and fast, and the men could scarcely shelter them
selves behind the rocks. Grey fired again, this time
with greater effect, for the ball shattered the arm of one
of the foremost. Still the savages pressed on. One of
Grey's companions was in such an abject state of terror,
that the gun fell powerless from his hands. The rifle of
the other had become entangled in its case, and he
could not use it. Both barrels of the leader were now
discharged, and no help was at hand. The shower of
spears continued. One struck the stock of Grey's gun
and broke it ; another glanced along his back. It was
a position that would have made any one bold. Tearing
the cover from the rifle with the strength of despair, he
stood upon a rock, to take a deadly aim. In a moment
he was stricken down. Three spears struck him at
once. The savages gave a yell of triumph, and came on
brandishing their clubs. Maddened by pain and despair
Grey was on his feet again in a moment, and rushed
towards them. It was now their turn to be afraid, and
they broke and fled. Singling out the leader, Grey
took deadly aim. The savage yelled, and flourished his
arms, dodging all the while from rock to rock. But it
was of no avail. The ball struck him between his
shoulders as he ran, and he fell upon his face with a
groan. This terminated the battle. The savages quickly
carried off their companion, and disappeared as myste
riously as they had come.
Poor Grey was badly wounded. Fortunately for
him, only one of the three spears had taken any serious
effect, and this had given him a pretty deep wound upon
the hip. This circumstance decided the fate of the ex
pedition. It was hopeless now to think of carrying the
exploration overland to Swan River. With the reduced
number of the ponies, their weakened state, and the
small supplies taken, it would have been nearly impos-

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 409
sible; but now that the leader wasl wounded, it was
quite out of the question. All he could hope to do was,
to explore a little way inland as soon as he was partly
recovered ; and for this purpose he sent to detain the
schooner. On the 27th February, he was able to move
on again. During his illness a path had been discovered
over the tableland by a course to the westward, and
thus they advanced more easily. This was a very
lucky circumstance, because the number of ponies was
now reduced to fourteen, and they were so enfeebled
that even with a small load they could not overcome the
most trifling obstacle. At last they crossed the first
portion of the tableland, and stood on the edge of a
precipitous descent. From the summit the view was
beautiful. A fertile plain was succeeded to the south
ward by a low, luxuriant country, which, for thirty or
forty miles, was broken only by conical peaks and
rounded hills, all richly grassed to their summits. The
plains and hills were lightly timbered, and apparently
watered by many winding streams.
Over these fertile plains and richly grassed valleys
the party travelled for many days. Nothing could be
more rich than the nature of the soil, and nothing could
be more umbrageous than the tropical vegetation.
There was no scarcity of water, for streams seemed
to abound on every side ; and, as for grass, it was so
luxuriant that the men were hidden from one another in
its long waving tufts at the bottom of the valleys.
Thus they were able to make a very easy journey. If
the tropical heat were too great at mid-day, they easily
found shady cool spots to rest under, and the volcanic
soil supported a herbage which it was impossible for the
animals to do otherwise than well upon.
Amid these meandering streams and cool bowers of
foliage a very large river was met with, flowing to the
westward. It was a noble channel where the party came
upon it, about four miles wide, and with many pretty
shady islands in its channels. The immense width of
this stream made Grey most enthusiastic, and he thought
he had made the discovery of a very large river,
perhaps the largest in Australia, which would conduct,

410 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
probably, to the interior of the continent. He was, how
ever, quite mistaken in this. As a rule in Australia,
riA^ers with very broad channels have a very short
course, and proceed from high mountains near, down
which the sudden and heavy rains of the climate descend
in streams too impetuous for a narrow channel, and too
violent to be very lasting. Grey found it so on this
occasion. He had not gone far up its banks before he saw
that its navigation was impeded by rapids, and a little
beyond the main stream divided into many channels, the
widest of which was not more than sixty yards across.
But it took a long time to ascertain these facts. The
stream was overgrown with jungle, so that it was a mat
ter of hard labour to advance, and then the jungle was
intercepted by boggy tributaries of the river, or else by
marshes which could not be crossed. A small amount
of rain seemed to have a surprising effect upon this
country. The river rose marvellously after a night's
wet, and the drift-wood, reeds, and dead grass lodged in
the bamboos, fifteen feet above the water level, showed
what it might have been at other times. Such a place
could not be called healthy, and what was wanting in.
the marsh miasma, would be made up by the natives, to
render the locality uninhabitable. Mr. Lushington shot
a kind of boa-constrictor in the long grass, just as it had
succeeded in crushing a young kangaroo within its
sinuous folds.
All these things were peculiarities of the first valley
they had met upon the tableland. At the end of it was
another sandstone ridge, lofty and precipitous ; too lofty,
indeed, and too craggy not to cost them a great deal of
time to get the ponies on the top of it. And it was only
a narrow ridge after all. Before they could get any
further, there were other precipices to get down. At the
foot of these there was a beautiful valley about three
miles wide, and on the further side a cascade could be
seen falling amid a dark forest. Beyond this rose more
of the tableland, and now they recognised that for some
time at least their course could only be across a succession
of gorges. However, they got down into the valley.
It was no easy matter, but still they made a path by

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 411
cutting down trees, and pushing aside some huge blocks of
stone. The country Avas then beautiful for a while, with
much rich grass, and many pleasant little bubbling streams
rolling over the turf. All round the ravines, splashing
cascades tumbled down in streaks of white spray over
the dark green trees. Along such a valley, and over
such ranges, the explorers continued. It is needless to
chronicle their daily difficulties. Sometimes these were
sandstone ranges ; sometimes their course was over
basaltic undulations of rock, jutting out into peaks and
ridges of volcanic stone, as it does on the edge of the table
land all round Australia.
At last their progress was stopped. The sandstone
ridge rose into cliffs which were found to be quite im
passable. Grey travelled along it for about three miles ;
but throughout this distance it presented no single pass
through which they could penetrate. They did not,
however, like to turn back without a careful search.
The sandstone range was found terminated on every
side by fearfully precipitous rocks, at the foot of which
lay fertile valleys, like the ones they had already seen.
Finding the sandstone range impracticable, Grey
thought he should be able to get round it by a passage
to the westward. For this purpose, the party went
back upon their route until they had come within reach
of the tributaries of the large river, named the Glenelg.
Grey's progress was then very slow, for his course was
badly chosen ; that is to say, along the entrances of the
gorges down which the tributary streams find a channel.
Thus his path for many days was along ledges of
rocks and across small streams ; at one time, having to
trace a channel for some distance to find a ford ; at
another, floundering through a morass, in which the
ponies were almost submerged ; yet, in spite of all the
difficulties, he was constantly enraptured with the
scenery. The lofty red cliffs, the bright green of the
valleys, the climbing bamboo, the tall pandanus, and
the shining tropical foliage, all came in for a share
of his admiration. The scenery indeed must have been
beautiful to excite such praise from a man circumstanced
as Grey was : but still a pass through the ranges could

412 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
not be found, and as the provisions were getting low, it
was determined to return to the schooner. Before
doing so, he sent Lieutenant Lushington to explore to
the southward. After a rapid march, the latter returned
on the 3rd of April. He had only proceeded about
eighteen miles. The whole of the route lay over a
country utterly impassable for the horses. They crossed
a number of very steep ravines, with streams in them
flowing to the westward. Their last point was a lofty
mountain, from which they could see nothing to the
southward but a continuation of the hills and ravines.
The country seemed to rise to the eastward.
Near the furthest point which Grey reached, some
remarkable painted figures were found on the walls of
two sandstone caves. They were much better executed
than anything that the natives are able to do now, and
their antiquity seems to be unquestionable. Some of the,
figures were dressed in robes reaching down to the feet,
and both hands and feet were painted a deeper red than
the rest of the body ; the face was draped in white, with
holes left for the eyes, and all had a double ring round
the head like the aureole of a modern saint. Three
colours were used — red, blue, and yellow; and in
addition to many other figures, there was a kind of
writing A^ery much like the characters in use among the
natives of the Indian Archipelago. Whatever may be
said of these strange drawings, it is quite certain that
they refer to a time when the savages made use of
clothing, and were more civilized'than at present they are.
Near one of the caves, a very good profile of a man's
head was cut out deeply in the rock : the type of the
head Avas not Australian, and was well executed. The
natives seemed to be very fond of these places as an en
campment, and in that respect they resembled all the
painted caves found upon the west, north, and north-east
coast.* * These painted caves are well worthy of further investigation. In
South America between 2° and 4° N. lat. the granitic and syenitic rocks are
covered with colossal symbolical figures of crocodiles, tigers, and human
figures about twelve feet in height. The head-gear is extremely remarkable.
It surrounds the head, and spreads far out not unlike (according to Sir R.
Schomburgk) the glory round the heads of saints. Many other interesting

GREY UPON THE NORTH-WEST COAST. 413
Grey returned to Hanover Bay on the 16th of
April. Here he met with Captain Wickham, in the
Beagle ; and though the coast had been carefully sur
veyed to the westward, nothing had been seen of the
Glenelg River ; its direction was towards Collier's Bay,
of which only one small portion was left unexplored ;
and this instance is one of many which could be fur
nished of the insufficiency of marine surveys for the
purpose of discovering rivers. Grey's expedition was
now at an end. On the I7th of May, the Lynher
returned. The ponies were turned loose upon the
coast, and then all further hopes of exploring with them
was abandoned. In reflecting on the results of this ex
pedition, it may be considered a failure. The slight
insight into the interior was, however, interesting, and
reminded one forcibly of the early attempts upon the
Blue Mountains. It would be very desirable to know
what was the character of the country on the southern
side of the watershed. The country must be good, and
no doubt is watered by some fine streams flowing for
a considerable distance to the southward. It is so on
every other part of the tableland ; and here, where the
land is so elevated, there can be no exception. To
ascertain the fact, however, an approach would be
better made from the southward ; for experience has
taught explorers that it is far more easy to traverse
immense tracts of the level interior than a narrow belt
of the sandstone ravines. As a settlement, the Gle
nelg is worthy of attention, though the country is very
limited, and would perhaps be unhealthy.
When Grey reached the Swan, he was employed for
a few weeks in exploring amid the Darling Range ;
that is, the tableland at the back of Port Leschenault.
Nothing now resulted from this journey ; but his testi
mony was added to that of other explorers, as to the
worthless character of the interior of the land away from
the rivers.

analogies with the Australian caves will be found in " Reisen in Guiana und
am Orinoko ubersetzt von Otto Schomburgk." Berlin 1841. Also, "Archajo-
logia Britannica," Vol. V. 1779, pp. 318-324, and Vol. VI. 1782, p. 107.

414

CHAPTER XXIII.
GREY UPON THE WEST COAST.
Grey starts again — Sharks Bay — Dreadful storm — The Gascoyne River — The
West Coast — Detention by bad weather — Return to the depot — Robbery
by the natives — Return to the Swan — Shipwreck of the crew — The
Murchison River — The Arrowsmith— Other western streams — Dreadful
sufferings — Arrival at Perth.
Captain Grey could not remain at home idle ; explora
tion had such charms for him that he was restless to get
away again. Before long, he had succeeded in organ
izing another party, on a scheme far more wild than the
plan with which he set out from England. He pro
vided himself with three whale-boats, and stores for six
months, for a party of thirteen ; and what he proposed
to do was as follows : — He was to be taken as far as
Sharks Bay in a whaling vessel, and then he intended
to make one of the islands his central depot. Here he
would bury his stores, while he made either occasional
journeys inland, or coasted along the shore in his boats.
In this manner he intended to work his way slowly
back to Perth. The scheme was as mad and wild as it
could well be. To depend upon whale-boats upon an un
known coast was bad enough ; but to have no assistance
from any vessel, and to be left upon a desolate island to
work their way back how they could, seemed sheer in
sanity. The issue was quite in keeping with the plan.
It was a train of disasters from beginning to end.
On the 25th February, 1839, the party were
landed with their stores upon Bernier Island, the most
northern part of the peninsula which encloses Sharks
Bay. Their troubles commenced at the very landing.
No search had been made previously as to what was

GREY UPON THE WEST COAST. 415
the nature of the country, and scarcely had the vessel
gone out of sight when they discovered that the
island was totally unprovided with water. They
searched and dug in all directions, but in vain ; the
island was a mere barren plateau of red sandstone, very
scrubby, and presenting high cliffs to the ocean for the
greater part of its coast line. Dorre Island was then
searched, and some of the provisions carried over to it.
In doing so, one of the whale-boats was caught in the
surf and dashed to pieces, and all its cargo lost. This
was rather a disheartening commencement ; but worse
was before them. Dorre Island was as desolate and
barren as its neighbour. Not a drop of water was to be
found on any part of its surface. They would have
crossed immediately to the main on making this dis
covery, but the weather was unfavourable. Here was
a position ! Their only supply of water was the cask
they took with them from the whaling vessel, and un
less they soon got across to a more favourable locality,
they must perish with thirst at the very commencement
of their expedition. And matters did not improve.
While they were waiting, a frightful storm arose — a per
fect hurricane, which sent both boats ashore, and scat
tered the contents as if they had been mere playthings.
Thus all their provisions were damaged by salt water,
and the two boats were complete wrecks. Nor was this
the whole. During the night of the terrible hurricane,
the men were obliged to swim backwards and forwards
to the boats, in the hopes of saving their cargo, and
thus, in addition to the loss, their strength was
weakened, and poor Grey as much shaken in constitu
tion as if the expedition had lasted a year.
Instead of being able now to cross to the other side
of the bay, they had first to mend their boats. Some
days were spent in patching them up, for a complete re
pair was out of the question ; and then they launched
again upon the water. Before leaving Bernier Island,
they had buried the greater part of their provisions, in
tending to return for them as soon as they found some
better dep6t. The day was fine, and as they made for
the distant coast, scarcely a ripple disturbed the water.

416 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
With all its disadvantages, the place was not without
a natural beauty of its own when the sea was calm.
The hills of the main, though low, were covered with a
dark vegetation to their summits, and the cliffy parts of
the shore, by their reflection in the water, seemed
lengthened into fine, bold rocky headlands. Amid such
scenes the day wore on, and Grey almost forgot his
recent privations. The evening closed upon them
before they could see where to bring the boat, so they
anchored in a very shallow place. What was their
surprise next morning, to find themselves aground in a
forest. They had anchored at high tide among the man
groves which form so thick a fringe round the shore.
They managed, however, to flounder through the mud
flats for about two miles, until they got to the scrubby
sand-hills of the shores. There they discovered what ter
minated their anxieties for a time. Three miles from the
beach there was a lagoon of fresh water.
All these transactions occupied until the 5th of
March, and, as yet, they had done nothing in the way
of exploration. Now, however, they would commence
in earnest, for their minds were easy on the subject of
water. Standing out from the shore on the 6th with a
fresh breeze, they soon were on deep ocean again. The
coast had a cheerless aspect. There was no high land
visible all round — nothing in fact, but mangroves. These
were run in at intervals by inlets and salt-water creeks,
every one of which was hailed as a river by the boat's
crew until they had explored it. Grey made sure he
should find some important stream in this bay, for Dorre
Island was covered with drift timber, and the man
groves looked as if they were disturbed at times by
freshes from the land side.
Their anticipations were soon realized. While run
ning northwards upon the coast, they discovered a
large opening, about three-quarters of a mile broad and
widening into deep reaches. This was a river beyond
a doubt. When they had ascended about three miles,
they found abundance of drift timber in the bed, and
from the size of the trees it was evident that they had
come from a country differing very much from the low

GREY UPON THE WEST COAST. 417
scrubby sand-hills of the eoast. The channel, however,
soon became choked with shallows and sandbanks, until,
at six miles from the mouth, there was not more than
a few inches of water. This was very annoying, for it
was certain that the stream must continue a long
distance inland ; but with no means of transport, except
the boats, Grey felt quite unable to attempt its explora
tion. At any rate, he would trace its course a little
further ; so, leaving his party at a suitable encampment,
he commenced to follow the windings of the river on
foot. Its banks, Avhen he started, were about five feet
high, and the channel half a mile Avide, containing only
salt water. By-and-by, this character changed — the
banks became higher, and the stream more narrow, with
many side channels. Grey followed it for four miles
Avithout finding the slightest subsequent alteration. It
was in vain that he walked over the intervening strips
of land into the side channels ; they resembled the
main one in all respects ; and after ranging for some
time backwards and forwards, the only conclusion he
could come at was, that the river seemed to come from
a long distance ; that the north banks were scrubby and
covered by a samphire swamp ; and that the south bank
contained some very rich and promising land. Its in
habitants were few. Some natives were seen — shy and
timid, like all the savages about this part of the coast.
How many there were could not be told, for they took
the precaution of walking in each other's footsteps, so
that their number could not be guessed from their tracks.
Two, however, were seen. Grey also thought he saw an
alligator ; it was lying, as he imagined, asleep amid a
small clump of trees. It was approached with caution,
and when near enough. Grey fired two balls into its
body. It only gave a kind of shake, and continued its
slumbers. Another shot was fired, and then the stench
told the explorers plainly that no ammunition would ever
wake it again. It was a huge blue shark, in a high state
of decomposition, and it had done its last mischief in
this world when it frightened and perfumed the ex
plorers. Grey made other explorations about this river, which
vol. I. 2 E

418 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
he named the Gascoyne, but without discovering any
thing new. It came from the north-east, and was evi
dently an important stream, but he only saw an
immense delta of alluvial soil, surrounded by sand-hills.
Occasionally, he found water-holes, eighteen or twenty
feet deep, surrounded by tea trees, and nearly all dried
up. He had satisfied himself of these facts, and left the
river, intending to return to it when he had obtained a
fresh supply of provisions from his depot on Bernier
Island. This, it will be seen, he was not able to do.
The river was not explored again until 1858, when it
was found that it proceeded from the tableland more
than a hundred miles inland, and receives in its course
many important tributaries.
The whale-boats again put out to sea, and steered
along the coast northward. In a little time, the sand
dunes ceased, and the land appeared very little elevated
above the horizon. Towards evening the boats had run
twenty-five miles, and Grey looked about for a harbour
in which to anchor for the night. But nothing of the
kind could he perceive. The sand-hills had again
arisen, and exposed a bleak and desolate rampart to a
broad line of foaming breakers. Meanwhile the wind
freshened, and the danger of the boats increased. They
could not venture to remain out much longer, so bad
the surf looked ; and they turned towards the shore.
They were soon caught in the swell. One by one they
careened over the curling green walls of lashing surf,
and at last grounded on a sandbank, about two hundred
yards from the shore. They were A^ery soon pulled over
this, and anchored for the night in a comparatively
smooth basin. Then they were safe. But how they
were to get out to sea again was a question which per
plexed them all. They passed a miserable night. Their
provisions were bad and unwholesome. The flour
had been continually saturated with salt water ever
since the storm on Dorre Island, and was almost uneat
able ; but they had nothing else. Fortunately they did
not want water, for a well was found close to the beach,
and the men were employed in filling the kegs.
In the meantime, Grey walked over the sand-hills

GREY UPON THE WEST COAST. 419
to ascertain the nature of the inland country. The
view surprised and delighted him. There he saw a most
beautiful lake, calm and unruffled, with many charming-
islands, diversifying the scene with their gentle wooded
slopes. The water seemed to extend as far as the eye
could reach. Grey made sure that it was a fresh- water
lake. Its limpid appearance told him so, and thinking
that he had made a great discovery, he returned with
the joyful tidings to his companions. They were over
joyed at the news, and wanted at once to drag a boat
over the hills, to launch upon the peaceful waters.
Grey, however, thought it more prudent to explore a
path first. He took with him a great number of the
men, and went down towards the edge of the inland
lake. It was not so easily reached. When the men
had walked a mile or so, they found themselves upon a
marshy flat, covered with sea shells and lumps of coral.
The lake seemed still as distant as ever. No one doubted
that its margin must be very near, so they toiled on.
The islands were visible, and looked beautiful, but they
were no nearer, and the water seemed to recede before
them. Then they looked back. The truth broke upon
them at once. As much water appeared behind them as
in front, and the dreary sand-hills looked in their turn like
pretty wooded islands. The whole was due to refrac
tion, and they were standing far advanced upon a
dismal salt marsh, which had only recently been inun
dated by the sea.
Disheartened and weary, they returned to the
coast. The wind in the meantime had risen, and a huge
foaming surf upon the shore told them that they were
prisoners. Day after day they waited, but no change
came except for the worse. It was madness to think of
launching the boats against such large and such angry
waves, so they could only sit and watch, with a terrible
foreboding of their fate. Their position was a very
trying one. The provisions were becoming daily more
scanty, and were so unwholesome that some of the men
became seriously ill. To add to their miseries, the
natives made a daring attack upon the boats, carrying
off a great many things, and wounding one man. Poor
L E 2i

420 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Grey was in a sad state of mind. At first, he was able
to employ himself drawing his maps and writing the
journal ; but after these employments he could only pace
up and down the beach all night, and gloomily brood
upon his sad position.
At last, the wind moderated, and the boats were
launched again on the 18th March. But that day
closed stormily, and they were obliged to rush again
through surf, and beach the boats, for how long they
could not tell, but if as long as the last detention, they
Avould certainly be starved. The next day turned out
fine. The boats were again afloat. The wind still
blew from the southward, and there was a heavy sea
running, but the men exerted all their energies, and
just before sunset they reached the northern mouth of
the Gascoyne. After this, very little impeded their pas
sage back to Bernier Island. They could now hope for
fresh food, and with their dearly bought experience they
might expect to conduct the expedition more success
fully. But a new and terrible disappointment awaited
them, and all that they had hitherto endured was nothing
to the crushing misfortune which ensued. While Grey
was arranging the boats, two of the men went up to the
cask, to see whether it had been disturbed. Grey fol
lowed, and found them perfectly stupefied with terror,
while they pointed to signs upon the ground which he
understood but too plainly. The natives had been
there, and nearly all their provisions either carried off
or destroyed.
It was a fearful position. One hundredweight of meat,
and sixty pounds of flour was all they had to depend
upon. The cruel savages had not only carried away
what they wanted, but they had destroyed as much as
they could, so that the ground was strewed with flour
and wasted food. These signs the thirteen haggard men
gazed upon with mingled feelings of anger and despair.
At first they showed some signs of insubordination, but
the firmness of Grey brought them back to their duty.
He told them that their safety depended upon obeying
his orders, and that if they would be patient and docile,
he would guarantee to bring them all in safety to Perth.

GREY UPON THE WEST COAST. 421
Bold promises, certainly, under the circumstances, but
the sequel showed that he was right. The men believed
him, and silently commenced to take their crazy boats
out into the ocean again.
Grey had first thought of making for Timor or
Port Essington, but a little consideration showed him
that it would be far better to make for Swan River.^ He
only returned for water to the Gascoyne, and on the
24th March sailed to the southward. The shore, as
usual, was low and uninteresting. A small range of
hills extended back a mile or so, and fronting this was
a dreary area of mangroves. The journey was a series
of adventures. On the first night they anchored in a
snug little bay, and, as on the first occasion, found them
selves in the morning encamped amid a leafy green
wood, for they had cast their anchor, at high tide,
amid the mangroves. The next night they were
overtaken by a storm, under the lee of Perron Penin
sula, and it was as much as the men could do to save
themselves from being capsized. When they started
again, .they were soon obliged to return from the violence
of the weather, and this happened every day until the
30th. Their camp meanwhile was under the sandstone
cliffs of the peninsula. On the narrow slip of sand
they were obliged to listen, day after day, to the booming
of the waves, and see chances of escape gradually slip
ping out of their way.
On the day just named, they got away. For the
next hundred and twenty miles they could not hope to
beach the boats. It would, in the weak state of the
party, take many days to make this passage, and should
the weather be foul, accompanied by strong gales, their
fate would be decided. The men talked in an under
tone to each other, and grew more and more gloomy.
They wanted to go ashore, and finally they became
insubordinate. Again Grey's firmness and courage
brought them to their duty, and they worked on. On the
31st, they continued along the shore. A small portion
of raw damper was served out to each man, but it was
rest they wanted, not food. Grey looked upon their
emaciated faces, and began to fear for the safety of all if

422 DISCOATEUY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
they continued much longer at sea. In an evil hour he
resolved to try land again. The shore was most unin
viting. A high line of perfectly level cliffs formed the
background. They were stony, lonely looking features,
uneven in front, and scarred by dark rugged gorges.
Before them was a small limestone range, even and
lightly timbered. In contrast with this was the large
rolling walls of troubled water, which rose so high at
times as to hide everything. It seemed certain destruc
tion to make towards the white line of spray on the
beach, but Grey turned his boat's head in. The waves
hurried past them at first, until the boat caught the
impetus. At last, it glided up a slope of green
water, and seemed to rest for a while amid the slightly
breaking froth. For an instant it was hurried along
with the speed of lightning. The wave hid every
thing, but Grey could only hope for the best, and keep
on. In another moment the water circled, stopped for
a moment, and broke, and they were dashed upon the
ground like mere playthings.
The rest of the dismal story is soon told. The
second boat in beaching also became a complete wreck,
and the carpenters declared their utter inability to repair
either of them, so as to float again, even supposing
that they could get a chance of launching them through
the frightful surf. There was only one chance now
left, and that was to try reach Perth on foot. It was a
pity that they had attempted to land. With a fair wind
they might have reached the Swan in three or four
days, now they could scarcely hope to do so in as many
weeks. The place where they were cast ashore was
found to be a beautiful piece of country, near the mouth
of a small river, which Grey named the Murchison.
From this they made rapid journeys. But an unex
pected difficulty soon arose. Some of the men insisted
on carrying with them a large amount of useless
lumber, such as sail-cloth, rope, old clothes, &c, and
no persuasion would induce them to abandon their
loads. . The consequences may be guessed. Weak and
exhausted; as they were, and on such a scanty allow
ance of food, they could not carry their burdens long,

GREY UPON THE WEST COAST. 423
and soon the majority began to clamour for shorter
stages. Grey argued and implored, but they turned a
deaf ear to his entreaties. He pointed out that their
only chance of safety lay in getting on while strength re
mained ; but all to no purpose. Finding that some of the
men had exhausted themselves, and could not travel fast
even with or without baggage, he offered to go rapidly on
with one or two followers, and to send back assistance
if he could succeed in reaching the settled districts.
The others joyfully assented to this, for though starva
tion stared them in the face, they had no energy to
avoid it. Grey therefore pushed on.
His journey was a terrible one. The flour was soon
exhausted, and he gives heart-rending accounts of the
sufferings he endured for want of food. The provisions
of some of his companions lasted a longer time, and
Grey relates hoAv one man shared a piece of damaged
damper with him about the size of a walnut, and how
he showed his gratitude next evening by dividing with
his benefactor the entrails of a hawk he had shot. But
this was only a part of their sufferings. They could
find no water, and it is horrible to think of the substi
tute they were driven to in their agony of thirst. The
country passed through was almost a solitude. Only
once did natives appear to try. to oppose their passage,
and those were easily dispersed. But when the natives
disappeared, it was a fatal indication of the sterile
character of the country they were passing through. Not
even birds or animals of any kind could they meet with.
Two or three days were passed without nourishment of
any sort, then a crow, a haAvk, or some weeds, would
stave off starvation for a time. At length they reached
Perth, but so worn, emaciated and reduced, that it was
impossible to recognise them ; and yet twenty-one days
had done this, for Grey arrived in Perth on the 21st
April, and the boats were wrecked on the 31st March.
Immediate succours were sent out to those who were
coming on behind, but they were too late for one of
them. A lad, named Smyth, had been left in a dying
state, and was found stretched lifeless among some
bushes. He was dreadfully emaciated, but had died,

424 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
apparently, Avithout much suffering. Mr. Walker, the
surgeon, had pushed on, and had arrived in Perth by
himself, and the three remaining were found at the foot
of a cliff on the sea-coast, having given up all hopes df
crossing it, from their utter inability to climb. They
had subsisted principally on shell-fish, and by cheAving
rushes, and had they not providentially found a cask
of water washed up on the beach, they must have
perished of thirst. When found by Surveyor-General
Roe, they had been three days without Avater, and they
had preserved in their canteen a loathsome substitute to
assuage their burning thirst.
The results of this latter journey were, in some
degree, important. Eight rivers were found to the
south of the Murchison, but none of any size. They
Avere named, in the order of finding them, the Chap
man, the Greenough, the Irwin, the Arrowsmith, and
the Smith. Probably none, except the Arrowsmith
seemed to deserve the appellation of more than creeks.
Two mountain ranges were discovered, one at the
northern extremity of the Darling Range, which at
this point is north and south, and called Moresby's
Flat-topped Range (of King). Another range was
found to be throAvn off in a westerly direction from
the Darling Range. It is about forty miles long,
from north to south, and is barren and sterile, ter
minating in Mounts Perron and Leseuer. This was
called Gardiner's Range. Grey described an exten
sive district of fine fertile country between the Vic
toria Range (the one to the east of Moresby's Range)
and the sea. This he named the Province of Victoria,
and the country round the Gascoyne the Province
of Babbage. Another district near Perth was found
to contain three rivers besides the Moore, which were
not previously known, namely, the Hill, the Smith,
and the Norcott. They seemed to drain Gardiner's
Range. After Mr. Grey's return, Mr. G. F. Moore (the same
Avho discovered the Moore River) was sent to examine
the country from the sea in the vicinity of Moresby's
Range. He reported favourably of a bay he found

GBEY UPON THE WEST COAST. 425
and a point to the south was named Point Grey ; the
port received the same name.
It may be as well to mention here, however, that
Captain Stokes visited the same locality shortly after,
and gave the port the name of Champion Bay. He
quite disproved the existence of any fertile land, with
the exception of a small patch in the valley of the
Greenough. The country around, on the contrary, was
of a most sterile and useless description. This report
arrived in time to prevent a disastrous attempt at esta
blishing a settlement there, and great credit is due to the
authorities for causing Stokes's examination before any
investment had been made in the land. Grey's mistake
is easily accounted for. In the famishing state in which
he Avas, his judgment could hardly be relied upon ; and
Avhen it is remembered that he had just come through a
tract of frightful country without one drop of Avater,
the sight of a river and a little green grass may easily
have made him imagine that the country was of better
quality than it deserved to be considered.

426

CHAPTER XXIV.
STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES.
The Fitzroy River — The Adelaide River— The Victoria — The Fitzmaurice —
The Albert — The Flinders — Discoveries by the Cedar Sawyers — The
M'Leay — The Clarence — Other rivers.
The readers will doubtless remember that when Grey
returned from his survey of the Glenelg, near Hanover
Bay, he was met by Captain Wickham, of the Beagle.
This was the vessel in which he had come out from the
Cape, and it was arranged that it should visit Hanover
Bay, to render assistance to the explorers. That por
tion of its operation has been already related, but pre
viously some valuable discoveries had been made upon
the north coast, and these remain to be described.
When Captain King had been upon the north-west
coast, he had noticed an opening to the eastward of
Point Cunningham which he had not been able to
examine, owing to the loss of his anchors. Into this
opening Stokes was sent to explore, with two boats, in
February, 1838. For the first two nights he anchored
off the coast, but as he proceeded several circumstances
made him believe that he was approaching the mouth
of a considerable river. The water deepened near the
coast, and large trees were passed occasionally, drifting
out to sea. As to the nature of the coast they could
say nothing of that, for it was as yet level as the ocearf.
They landed upon the only vacant spot visible there
abouts, and that was a mere sand-bar of the stream, left
dry at high water. This was in lat. 17° 5'; and from
the highest tree near, Stokes could see nothing but
mangroves and mud banks. But if the land was vacant,

STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 427
the air was not. Stokes and his companions tried in
vain to sleep by a camp fire which they made, but sleep,
or even rest, was out of the question. The mosquitoes
were the largest and fiercest they had ever seen, and
they earned for the locality the name of Point Torment.
Twenty miles further, they saw the mouth of the river,
but it was quite unapproachable. It seemed to be
almost closed by a bar, over which the tide was boiling
furiously, while the waters swept by them with fearful
rapidity. This was in the evening. In the night the
return tide came up with a wave which nearly upset
the boats, and the place was named, in consequence,
Escape Point.
With the tide, Stokes proceeded up the stream in the
whale-boat, but from Point Escape there seemed no
regular channel : the bed ofthe river became an exten
sive flat of mangroves, intersected by small streams
in every direction. The country around was a dead
level. Finding it impossible to take the boat further,
Stokes landed with two men to return on foot to Point
Escape, while the boat went down one of the channels.
The flat was a soft mud, and their journey soon became
very fatiguing because of the numerous creeks they had
to cross. The tide was rising, and the creeks were be
coming wider and wider. At first, they managed to
jump across, but each jump required a greater exertion.
At last, they reached one they could not jump, and as
one of the party could not swim they were obliged to
wait and make signals to the boat. It was a long time
before they could make their companions hear, and
meanwhile the Avater had risen up to their knees. It
was coming up very fast — faster, unfortunately, than
the boat, which had some difficulty in making headway
against the tide. They made tremendous efforts, and so
did the tide ; and they were compelled to anchor above
the three unfortunate explorers, who were now up to
their arm-pits in water. Stokes waved his arms, and
encouraged them. Another desperate effort was made,
and again they were compelled to anchor to keep their
ground. The cries of the struggling man as the water
reached his neck nerved the boatmen for a fresh effort,

428 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Avhich saved Stokes and his companions. When they
again visited the spot, on looking down through the
water Stokes saw an alligator crawling through the mud
where he had been standing. This was undoubtedly
Escape Point.
The party now returned to the ship for fresh sup
plies and more assistance, and on the 7th March Captain
Wickham returned with Stokes to Mangrove Islands.
Before proceeding up the stream they made a short
excursion into the interior. It was like all the river
flats, and especially reminds one of the river country
first surveyed by Captain King. Wide, unbroken
plains, covered with wiry grass, met their gaze on
every side. Everything was dry and burned up, and
the few solitary trees which started up here and there
only tended to make the loneliness more mournful. It
wanted only sunset to make the scene all of a piece.
The river, three miles wide, the low banks, the salt
marshes, and the open plains, seemed under a fading
light, like a farewell of fertility to creation. A few
natives were seen upon the low grassy banks. They
lay perfectly still, with their heads just raised above the
ground, listening with alarm to the plash of the oars
amid the grave-like silence of the waters. So intent
were they in watching the first boat that they allowed
the second to come A'ery close to them, and then they
gave a yell, and ran terrified into the plains.
The Fitzroy preserved a very uniform character, as
far as it was traced. The banks became well wooded at
a short distance from the sea, and the width of the
stream grew rapidly narroAver. At twenty-two miles
in a direct south-east line from the opening, it was still
of moderate width, but was so choked up with dead
timber and islets that Wickham could follow it no
further. Like all Australian streams, it was a collec
tion of shallows and deep reaches, and seemed very
liable to extensive floods. It has never been since
explored, but there can be no doubt that it will yet be
found to be a most important feature on the north-west
coast. From the date of this discovery until July, 1839, the

STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 429
Beagle discovered nothing new. At that time she
arrived at Port Essington, which had been colonized
under Sir Gordon Bremer the year previously. But
little had been done in the way of exploration. Lieu
tenant Stewart had explored on the east side of Coburg
Peninsula, and he had found an immense number of
buffaloes in wild herds.* Abundance of fresh Avater
was found, but the party was only absent eight days.
While the Beagle was surveying near Cape Hotham, an
opening was found in the neighbourhood leading to a_
river named after the good Queen Adelaide. This was
traced through a fertile and level country for eighty
miles, when it divided into two branches, one too nar
row for boats and the other blocked up by fallen trees.
It has since been perhaps explored by Mr. Stuart, and
was probably met by that traveller after crossing the
Roper. By means of its channel he stated that he was
enabled to succeed in his third attempt to cross the con
tinent from north to south. The waters are fresh, and
for the first fifteen miles fringed with mangroves.
Higher up the banks were thickly wooded but very level.
It swarmed with alligators during its whole course.
But the most important discovery made by the
Beagle's crew was the Victoria River, in the opening
between Point Pearce and Cambridge Gulf, which King
Avas unable to examine. Captain Wickham was more
fortunate than his predecessor. Not being short of
anchors, and under no anxiety about his ship, he steered
boldly in to the bottom of the bay. It was a fine open
ing : the lofty tableland broke into high, rugged cliffs
on either side, and in the distance could be seen those
turretted flat summits whose escarpments had reminded
King so much of fortifications. Two openings were
found at the bottom of the bay — one small, named the
Fitzmaurice, on the south-east side, and one very
large, on the south. This was the Yictoria River. It
* These animals had been imported from Timor, when the settlement
was at Port Raffles. They have increased wonderfully since, and form very
large herds upon the north coast ; they are larger than the domestic cattle,
and a little coarser in the flesh, but may be easily tamed, and would form a
valuable addition to a tropical farm.

430 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
was evidently a very important stream, much larger
indeed than any hitherto found upon the north coast.
It ran through a very wide valley bounded by a high
line of cliffs. The summit of these cliffs was an immense
sandstone plateau. Thus it appeared that the course
was through a break in the great sandstone tableland.
The low lands were not very fertile at first : they were
fringed with mangroves, and covered with a salt incrus
tation, and here and there were scattered clumps of drift
timber, showing that sometimes considerable inunda
tions flowed across the plains. In the cliffs the strata
were well marked, and dipping to the south-east at an
angle of about 30°. Their base and sides were thickly
strewn with small fragments of sandstone, exactly as if
they were macadamised, like a newly made road. The
range was in consequence called the M'Adam Range.
The Beagle was easily taken more than fifty miles
up the channel, but though wide and deep it was rapidly
assuming the character of . an Australian river. Its
course was tortuous and winding, and many fine reaches
of almost still water showed that the level of the bottom
was very uneven. While the vessel was anchored to
take in her supplies of water (not from the stream, how
ever, for that was still brackish), Captain Wickham and
Stokes went on to explore the further course in the
whale-boat. The Victoria kept almost north-east,
averaging three-quarters of a mile in width and twelve
feet in depth. : Its banks increased in richness as they
moved up. Hills and tableland formed a regularly
shaped background, only broken here and there by a
jutting peak, while the stream kept its course well
marked by a winding line of dense brushwood amid a
boundless plain. At intervals were many small whirl
winds coursing each other like gaunt spectres, and
throwing around them dust, leaves, and even small
branches of trees.
After following the stream further than any river
yet found upon the north coast, the course was stopped
by a shoal. The boats were easily dragged over
this, and for two miles more glided along a fine deep
reach. Then another dry stony shoal occurred, and they

STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 431
could see that the stream was interrupted by similar
obstacles every mile or so. It was much too hot to
think of dragging the boat continually over such im
pediments, for the thermometer stood at 100° in the
shade, so the attempt at further navigation was given
up. Stokes went on foot for a day's journey beyond
the boat, but no new feature became visible, and the
final exploration of the river was abandoned in lat.
15° 36', at about 140 miles distant from the sea. The
scenery during the latter part of the journey had been
very rich and beautiful. Large palm trees and a dense
brushwood of acacia had thickly lined the still glassy
reaches, while their surfaces were studded with beauti
ful white lilies, which floated in graceful rafts all along
the shady banks. The weather during the exploration
was oppressively hot, though the summer season had
not commenced, and the sun shone down upon the sand
stone cliffs with a glare that was perfectly unendurable.
Once the party met with a heavy thunder shower and
gale of wind. Torrents of rain fell, which reduced the
temperature in a very short time so much that the men
were glad to plunge into the river to warm themselves.
This was not a very safe place for them. Alligators
were as common here as on any part of the north coast.
Stokes succeeded in capturing one. He shot it as it lay
upon the water, and, thinking that it was dead, directed
his men to pass a rope round it and haul it ashore. At
first it required all their strength to pull it up the banks,
but suddenly they were at a loss to explain why their
exertions were so much diminished. The alligator gave
the explanation in person, for he was soon seen walking
up the shore, evidently wanting to know who tied the
rope round his leg. He was despatched at length with
some difficulty, and the crew regaled themselves on alli
gator steaks. It is perfectly astonishing to think what
some men will eat.
Very few natives were seen by the party : those
that were met were thought to be peaceable, but they
shunned communication. This threw the explorers off
their guard, and before Stokes had left the precincts of
the Victoria River he received a very severe wound

432 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
from one of their spears thrown from an ambush while
he was exploring upon the beach.
The Beagle was employed for some time subsequently
on the Australian coast, and Stokes made a few dis
coveries in the Gulf of Carpentaria. Van Diemen's
Inlet was explored, because it was marked by the Dutch
as a large opening. It was a small river, quite unnavi-
gable. The boat could only advance nine miles, and
then the mangroves were so thick that it was impossible
to work through them. Disaster Inlet was a very simi
lar opening. In fact, mangrove swamps line the coast
of Carpentaria so thickly that of all the expeditions
from the land not one has as yet been able to reach the
sea-side. In lat. 17° 36', however, they entered a large
and promising opening. The water was deep, though
the banks were lined with mangroves ; behind which, on
the eastern side, were plains with large trees. The
river wound very much as they proceeded, so that they
could not advance fast, and they were also much delayed
by the tide, which only flows once in the twenty-four
hours in Carpentaria. The banks became gradually
more open, and the country clear and level, though
shoals interrupted the course at times. The river Avas
generally deep and wide, and kept to the southward.
At about twenty miles, however, the boat grounded so
often that Stokes proceeded with the gig alone. The
stream became very tortuous, but the various reaches
Avere extremely pretty. Huge trees lined the sides, and
sometimes the banks broke into cliffs or swelled into
lawn-like green slopes of surprising verdure for Aus
tralia. Lovely little islets were scattered over the
surface ofthe reaches, Avhichwere broad and placid, but
not very deep ; and at a place where the banks were
steep and. overhanging with creepers, and the channel
divided into two branches, Stokes returned. This
was in lat. 17° 15'. The river was named the Flinders.
A melancholy interest is attached to this stream, because
it was the one reached by Burke and Wills Avhen they
crossed the continent in 1861, and from which they
only returned to be starved to death. It has also been
discovered to be the most important stream yet knoAvn

STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 433
upon the north coast, more important even than the
Yictoria. It runs from a very long distance inland, and
will be the highway yet used in traffic between Mel
bourne and the north coast.
Another river was found to the west of the Flin
ders. This was the Albert River, first seen by Lieute
nant Fitzmaurice. Stokes entered the opening on the
30th July, 1840. The banks were fringed with man
groves. For three miles it was very straight, and
about three hundred yards wide. The width increased
as they proceeded, until it was a reach almost a mile
across, studded with islands ; but the depth was very
slight — barely ten feet, and at no great distance from
the mouth it divided into two channels. The narrowest
(the Barkly) was quite unnavigable, except for boats,
and that only for about twenty miles. It was quite
salt. The Albert was a fine fresh stream, about two
hundred yards wide, but getting much broader. Its
banks were very picturesque, and the country around
of the richest description. Its course was generally
south-west, and the higher it was traced the more
charming the scenery became. The stream kept on
so well that Stokes thought he would be able by
its means to reach the centre of the continent ; but
at seven miles further, it divided again, and all pro
gress was stopped, for both branches were completely
dammed up with dead timber. The boats were at this
time about fifty miles from the entrance, and as pro
visions were now short, Stokes proposed to return, after
spending the remainder of the day on a land excursion.
Following a short woody valley, they came upon a vast
boundless plain, dotted over with stumps of timber, like
islands in a sea of grass. The river could be traced to
the southward, but there was no sign of the west
branch. The soil was rich ; apparently of great depth,
and very beautifully grassed. At the end of four
miles they turned off to the west for a small hill, and
then made the river, which was now a mere rivulet
scarcely fifteen yards wide and five feet deep. It was
running rather rapidly from the south. Two miles
further it was quite undiminished, and its course was
VOL. I. 2 F

434 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
traced as far as the eye could reach along the plain.
Here they turned back in lat. 17° 58' 39" S., long. 139°
25' E. ; and the plains before them, still as boundless as
ever, were named the Plains of Promise. Stokes, on
leaving the spot, says — ¦" What an admirable point of
departure for exploring the interior. A few camels
would effect it in a short space of time." This Avas the
plan which ultimately succeeded in 1860, but proceed
ing from the other side of the continent.
This was the last discovery of the Beagle's crew, and
to Stokes the geography of Australia owes a great deal.
He would have accomplished more had he had the
means. Probably, no explorer except Grey wrote
such interesting accounts of his journeys.
There remain yet some important discoveries to be
mentioned. It will be remembered that Oxley, in
crossing the Dividing Range between the Peel River and
the sea, came upon a large stream flowing northward,
which he named the Apsley. This was found to be the
head of a fine river named the M'Leay, which emptied
itself upon the coast at Trial Bay, lat. 30° 40'. The
entrance is obstructed by a bed of sand, and then suc
ceed extensive mangrove flats, Avith thickets of myrtle,
palm, and swamp oak, which a few miles further are
superseded by a forest, rising like a green wall on
each side of the river. This forest was found to contain
large quantities of red cedar (Cedrela toona), and white
cedar (Melia azederacli), Avhich, though ATery different
from What is known as cedar at home, is a valuable
wood, and in much request by the colonists. Accord
ingly, it was not long before the forest was colonized
by cedar sawyers, and these, in their searches for new
timber, made many valuable and important discoveries.
The first was in 1838, when the Clarence River was
discovered, in looking for timber for the purposes just
alluded to. This is one of the largest rivers on the
east coast, and flows into Shoal Bay, in lat. 29° 30'. It
comes from the main range, and receives several very
large tributaries, one of which, the Ora-Ora River, rises
in the Lofty Mountain. The Clarence is remarkable for
its great breadth and large volume of water, considering

STOKES AND WICKHAM'S DISCOVERIES. 435
the short distance of its mouth from its sources. Pro
bably it is the widest river in Australia. Its natural
features and the soil upon its banks are very similar
to those of the M'Leay. Like all the east coast rivers,
it is obstructed by a bar, immediately within which
there is a very fertile island, and, when first discovered,
it abounded in emus. Many other smaller islands occur
further up the stream.
To the south of the Ora-Ora there is another river,
called by the native name, Bellengen. This Avas also
found by the cedar sawyers, in 1841, who went on
an expedition to discover new rivers, where they
could cut cedar. Mr. Clement Hodgkinson, who was
at that time surveying along the M'Leay, started over
land for the new river. He found that it was divided
from the former, stream by seven very lofty and pre
cipitous ranges of mountains, running east and west,
between which run important streams, named, succes
sively, the Algomerra Creek (tAvo branches), the Nam-
bucca River (also two branches), the Coohalli Creek
(whereon the Araucaria appears), and the Odalberree
River. The Richmond River might have been said to have
been discovered by Cook, and subsequently by Cun
ningham, as the former discovered the mouth, and the
latter the source at Mount Lindesey. The entrance is
in lat. 28° 55' S., and has a bar. It much resembles the
M'Leay, and has abundance of cedar ; but altogether
the stream is next to the Clarence.
The Tweed is a large salt-water inlet, next to the
Richmond. It is close to Mount Warningreef, seen by
Cook. A certain cedar-dealer, named Scott, about the
time that the Bellengen was discovered, crossed the bar
of the Tweed in a schooner of sixty tons. I have not
been able to ascertain if he was the first discoverer of
the inlet, the opening to which was seen by Cook. All
these rivers are the principal drainage from the east
side of the Dividing Range down to the sea. They have
a short course, and run through one of the richest soils
that Australia possesses. 2 f 2

436

CHAPTER XXV.
THE FLINDERS RANGE AND G1PPSLAND.
Eyre's exploration near Adelaide— The Flinders Range— The Broughton— The
Rocky River— Mount Remarkable —Mount Eyre — Port Lincoln — Over
land route to Mount Arden— Gawler Range— Baxter Range— Governor
Gawler's explorations— Fate of Mr. Bryan — McMillan in Gippsland—
Strzelecki in the Alps— Mount Kosciusko — Terrible journey overland to
Western Port.
We must now turn from the tropical regions of Aus
tralia to that small settlement on the south coast, which
had begun round the slowly rising town of Adelaide.
This colony has not been alluded to since the description
of the few explorations following the first occupation of
the colony. From that period very little had been done
in the way of discovery, because the territory was
known to a far greater distance than the wants of the
colonists then extended. In 1839 the knowledge ofthe
country was pretty extensive, but no large share of the
discoveries fell to the lot of any single individual.
Little excursions were continually undertaken by per
sons in search of good country, and these would always
result in something new. Besides this, the Govern
ment surveyors were always adding to the map, until,
little by little, and piece by piece, the country round
Adelaide was known aud described.
And yet there were reasons why no A7ery important
discoveries could take place without the equipment of a
large exploring party. The general features of the
colony were known, except in the north ; and even in
this direction, Flinders' discoveries at the head of
Spencer's Gulf had shown what they might expect
as far as Mount Arden — a distance of two hundred
miles. To the south there was the sea ; to the east, the

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 437
Darling and Murray, which had been explored ; and to
the west, the sea and Yorke's Peninsula, Avhich had been
a little explored by many parties, and some consider
able patches of available country found amid its dense
scrubs. To the north, about a hundred miles had been
minutely examined, and several small streams, such as
the Light, the Wakefield, and the Gilbert, discovered
amid the mountains.* But it would take many years
before the population would be sufficient to occupy all
the land known, so that any exploring expedition must
start from Adelaide, and, unless equipped for a long
journey, could not carry an examination much beyond
what was already explored.
Mr. Eyre was the first that roused public attention
in Adelaide to the subject of geographical discovery.
This is the same gentleman who discovered the Wim
mera River, in 1839. He then occupied a small sheep
station, about fifty-five miles north of Adelaide. In
May of that year he started to explore the Flinders
Range beyond Mount Arden, for he had very great
hopes, that it would be found to cross the continent. His
journey was among the grassy undulating hills of the
range, and for the first hundred miles he found them to
be a chain of fertile valleys, well grassed and of exceed
ingly rich soil. Nothing could exceed the picturesque
character of the hills. They were easy to travel over,
and very lightly timbered for the most part. What
ever height their summits might be above the sea, the
ascent was gradual, and extensive watercourses, such as
the Hill and the Hutt Rivers, watered their principal
slopes. Thirty miles beyond the Hutt, Eyre came upon
a very wide stream named the Broughton. It was a
* In thus summarising the smaller discoveries about Adelaide I may
possibly dissatisfy South Australians, who would naturally wish to see the
finding of many little places mentioned, and the names of their daring pioneers
preserved. I feel it necessary to offer one word of apology to the colony of my
adoption. Many names and particulars are before me which I am reluctantly
compelled to omit, for the sake of bringing these volumes within reasonable
limits. There is one more reason. This work is intended for the general
public, who cannot be supposed to care for an enumeration of places and
persons which have not the slightest importance in connection with the gradual
development of the geography of Australia.

438 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
chain of long, wide, and very deep water-holes, con
nected with one another by what appeared to be a run
ning stream. The soil upon its banks was much poorer
than what was found in the hills further south. But
there was a grassy and picturesque range to the north,
named Campbell's Range, which has several springs on
it, and gives rise to a small stream which joined the
Broughton lower down. As the watercourse approached
the Broughton, the country became more abrupt and
broken ; and after its junction with that river, the
stream wound through a succession of precipitous hills
for about fifteen miles to the southward. Up to the
point where it left the hills it had water in its bed, but
after that the channel became dry and gravelly, amid
open plains, with probably an underground drainage.
This is the character of nearly every stream which runs
from the Flinders Range, and indeed from nearly every
other range in Australia, as will be seen from the dis
coveries of the next A^olume.
Eyre left the Broughton on a course slightly west of
north, across a barren country. From the summit of a
hill, named Spring Hill, extensive plains were visible
to the north-west, Avith open rises on each side, while to
the Avest he could see the waters of Spencer's Gulf. He
crossed the plains, amid which a deep creek ran, which
came through Campbell's Range, and thus opened a
passage to the eastward. Beyond the creek the country
Avas high and level ; and, while travelling through it,
Eyre suddenly found himself on the edge of a small
gorge, through which a charming mountain stream,
named the Rocky River, took its course. It was run
ning, but, like the Broughton, when traced down, it was
found to lose itself in a sandy channel. From this
stream a conspicuous peaked hill was visible to the
northward, which, from its abruptness, and the way it
stood isolated from the neighbouring hills, Avas named
Mount Remarkable.
The country round the Rocky River was open, but of
inferior description, until Eyre left the ranges and
travelled on the flat between them and Spencer's Gulf.

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 439
The inlet was not wide here, for the hills on the oppo
site side were distinctly visible. In moving up the
gulf, along the range, its character seemed to vary but
little for seventy or eighty miles. It rises abruptly
from the plains like high, rocky, barren walls, and so
generally even is the country at its base that a carriage
might easily pass within a mile or two of it, were it not
for the small watercourses which run occasionally down
from the gorges at the sides. The rocks were abrupt
escarpments of quartzite, or steep declivities of clay-
slate. There was little or no vegetation on the hills.
Ten miles from Mount Arden, there was a hill
standing out from the main range of considerable eleva
tion, bold and rocky. Eyre immediately wTent towards
it, and soon reached its summit. The views were not
agreeable. The region to the north appeared to consist
of low, rocky, sandy country, without trees or shrubs
of any sort of growth, except a few stunted bushes. On
the east the view was backed by high rugged ranges,
very barren in appearance, and extending northward as
far as the eye could reach. To the west and north-west
appeared a broad glittering stripe, like a sheet of water.
This was named Lake Torrens. It appeared about
twenty-five miles off, and of considerable width, but at
so great a distance it was impossible to say whether
there was water in it. At any rate, it did not look an
encouraging spot, and so Eyre turned from it. This
was his furthest point, and when he returned to Ade
laide, the Governor directed that the hill from which the
lake was seen should be called Mount Eyre.
In the same year, Mr. Eyre undertook the command
of another expedition, to examine the coast to the west
of Port Lincoln, and, if circumstances alloAved, to ex
plore a portion of the inland country. There had been
a small settlement established at the port, but it was
then very recently founded, and though nothing was
known of the back country, very small hopes were
entertained of its fertility. Small or large, it was Eyre's
lot to destroy them completely by his discoveries. At
a very feAv miles from the town, he had to work his

440 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
way through a dense scrub until he reached the sea
shore. Immediately contiguous to this the country was
a little better. It consisted of low, grassy, lightly
timbered ridges of limestone, too stony to be fertile,
and yet very picturesque in contrast with the scrubby
land. Such ridges form a characteristic feature of a
great deal of the south coast. The limestone is a recent
shelly deposit, and generally contains springs and lakes
of fresh water. Eyre found it the case here. He saw
many lakes, of which some were fresh and some were
salt, the latter with fresh-water springs bubbling up in
their midst. The ridges seemed to extend about twelve
miles inland, and there commenced a low, level waste
of barren, scrubby land ; but as they proceeded the
range receded from the sea and left scrub on both
sides, interrupted near the beach by large salt lakes.
One of these had been seen by Flinders from the mast
head of the Investigator, when near Streaky Bay, and it
had been mistaken for an inlet. The scrub inland had
salt lakes too, with here and there granite ridges, rising
like solitary signals amid the brown expanse of foliage.
When Eyre reached Streaky Bay, he determined to
cross thence to Mount Arden, which would take him on
a nearly east course along the top of the north part of
the Port Lincoln Peninsula, and thus give him a good
idea of the general character of the inland country.
The first day's journey was through eighteen miles of
alternating scrub and open plains, with grass, but no
water, and certainly nothing approaching a fertile soil.
Next day, fifteen miles more took him to a high granite
ridge, with both grass and water upon its flanks. To
the north-east, many peaks of a range were visible,
with a high and broken outline ; and this was named
the Gawler Range, after the governor of the colony.
It was for a long time hoped that it was the commence
ment of a fertile region further to the north, but Eyre
was not able to examine it then. It was fortunate for
his hopes that he did not, for recent explorations have
shown it to be a worthless region, not differing from
similar ranges on the tableland of Western Australia,

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 441
of which the reader will learn more than enough here
after. From the granite ridge, Eyre's route was through
a fearful desert, very scrubby and stony, with much
spinifex ( Triodia irritans) growing upon the sand ridges,
which were interrupted by level limestone flats. In
spite ofthe heaviness ofthe sand, they were enabled to
travel, over twenty-five miles of such country, to a
high ridge, not unlike their camp of the previous even
ing. The Gawler Range was now distinctly visible,
extending from N. 15° W. to N. 65° E., and presenting
the broken and picturesque outline of a vast mountain
mass rising abruptly out of the low scrubby country.
The principal elevation could not be less than two
thousand feet, but the height seemed to decrease to the
north-west. The next day, twenty miles more of heavy sandy
scrub brought them under the Gawler Range. They
found the mountain to be of granite, with only coarse
vegetation, and no water, except a few surface pools.
From one of the summits, Eyre obtained a view over
interminable scrub, with salt lakes, but nothing more
encouraging, as far as he could see. The journey, for
the two following days, was along the foot of the range.
There was good grass in patches, but no water, until
the evening of the second day. The rock, meanwhile,
had changed to a reddish quartzite, and while the hills
seemed to increase in elevation to the north, to the east
they were becoming lower and quite detached.
From this point they travelled due east, finding a
little surface-water, but no grass. But one other eleva
tion Avas crossed, and that was named Banter's Range ;
but with this exception, and the occurrence of a few salt
lakes, nothing interrupted the scrub until they reached
the head of Spencer's Gulf. They had thus succeeded in
forcing a passage ; but at most seasons such a journey
must be impracticable. The only water to be found is
a small quantity in the holes in the rocks, left by the
rain, so that, unless after wet weather, this barren,
rocky, and worthless country cannot be penetrated.
In the same year, 1839, an attempt was made by

442 DISCOATERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Governor Gawler to explore from the north-west head of
the River Murray towards the east side of the Flinders
Range. What little was known of the country lying
between (about a hundred miles in a straight line),
were not favourable. Wherever it had been penetrated
it had been found to be a dense scrub ; still it was
imagined that it might alter were it explored sufficiently
far, and this was what the governor was anxious to
ascertain. His exploration led to no remarkable result,
but it is chiefly memorable in connection with the un
happy fate of one of the gentlemen who assisted him.
He left the Murray in November, 1839, accompanied
by Captain Sturt, Messrs. Inman and Bryan, and two
attendants. Their journey at first was over plains of
sand, covered with patches of stunted trees, with tall
grass, some saltbush, and no water. What little they
carried with them was exhausted on the day following,
and it seemed certain that their exploration must termi
nate unless some supplies were reached. As none
was found, the gOAernor, with Mr. Bryan, went back
to the camp in all haste to get some assistance for the
others on their return, because the animals were much
exhausted and could not travel fast. At twelve miles
Mr. Bryan was too fatigued to go further, and Governor
Gawler was reluctantly obliged to leave him and go on
alone for- assistance. He reached the camp, and went
back with water, but Bryan was not to be found in the
place where he had been left. By the time the rest of
the party came up a regular search was made. He was
never found. His coat was discovered, with a paper,
on which was written that he was much exhausted and
had gone to the south-east, but no further traces could
be seen, though the search was continued until the
provisions were exhausted. ,
Thus the South Australian colony was gradually
becoming better known, and there remained but little
within the limits of the other colonies which was not
explored. There was, however, one important excep
tion, and that not a very great distance from Melbourne.
This was the territory of Gippsland, Avhich has since

THE FLINDERS EANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 443
proved one of the most fertile and extensive districts in
that colony. Though not very far from Melbourne, it
was separated from it by ranges, and dense thickets and
scrubs, which acted as a very effectual bar to explorers,
who had so much fine open territory to the north and
westward still to investigate.
The country referred to lies between Wilson's Pro
montory and Cape Howe. It is a sort of crescent,
hemmed in between the sea and the Australian Alps.
The latter chain, which makes many bends to the west
ward in its southerly part, makes a more direct course
to the sea about the 147th meridian. Here the hills
become lower and more rounded and fertile. The spurs
are less abrupt, shaping the intermediate valleys into
most picturesque slopes, until they finally terminate in
an open plain as rich and luxuriant as any in Australia.
" Viewed from Mount Gisborne, Gippsland re
sembles," says Count Strzelecki, " a subterranean am
phitheatre, walled from north-east to south-west by
lofty and picturesque mountain scenery, and open
towards the south-east, where it faces, with its sloping
area, the uninterrupted horizon of the sea."
It may perhaps be astonishing, that so extensive
and promising a tract had remained unexplored.
Unknown it certainly was not, for Cook saw it, and so
did every voyager who came near enough to the coast.
In the passage through Bass's Straits, Bass saw it ;
and there was scarcely a squatter on the north side of
the Dividing Range who was not aware that some good
and available country existed upon the south side,
could a passage be found to it.* But it is easy to
understand why it was not explored. The coast was
an almost inaccessible sandy beach, and on the inland
side the . country was surrounded by mountains of an
impenetrable roughness.
However, in 1840, the land was destined to have
* In an article in the " Edinburgh Review," published in 1862, on the
subject of Australian exploration, it is stated that Count Strzelecki dis
covered the available tract of Gippsland, the previous existence of which was not
oven suspected. There are two inaccuracies in this assertion, which will be
seen from what follows in this chapter.

444 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
its solitude disturbed. The discovery was made by a
Mr. McMillan, who was overseer on a station near the
Snowy Mountains. On the 11th January, 1840, he
started from the station where he was living, accom
panied by Messrs. Cameron and Mathew, one stockman,
and a black fellow. They spent the first day and the
second amid the Snowy Mountains ; and having passed
the range, travelled along a river, with large and
extensive flats on both sides, and backed by beautiful
open forests. On the 14th, they were only thirty miles
from their starting-point, and yet came next day to a
large fresh-water lake, into which the river emptied
itself. The country was improving at every step, and
was now a large plain of very fertile, well-grassed land.
Thus far their course had been south, but now the
creeks from the lake were so numerous that they
changed to the westward. This brought them to
another huge river, not then less than thirty yards
broad and twelve feet deep. It was impossible to cross
it, as the banks were very boggy, so, very much to their
regret, they were obliged to leave the fine plains, and
make again towards the rugged ranges, in order to head
the stream. They soon, however, resumed their course
to the south, and another river was crossed, with
splendid land upon its banks, quite fit for cultivation.
They forded the stream near the ranges, and even then
only with considerable difficulty. Every stream they
crossed they tried to make to the southward, but were
always obliged to return to the mountains to head the
watercourses which succeeded. The last river they met
with was the finest of all, and a beautiful broad and
rapid stream. They followed it for a few miles to the
south-west, until the channel led into a morass at the
back of the coast range. This seemed to extend from
the lake, and was at least a mile broad. They made
several ineffectual attempts to cross it, but were obliged
at last to give up their hopes of reaching the sea in
that direction. Mr. McMillan now proposed that they
should go up the river to the northward, and cross it
thus, but this was impossible. Their provisions, which

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 445
were only intended for fourteen days, were now ex
hausted, with the exception of ten pounds of flour and
a small damper. They were therefore obliged reluct
antly to turn back, without seeing the coast.
McMillan imagined that he was only twenty-five
miles from Wilson's Promontory when he returned ; but
this was a mistake, for he must have been at least sixty
miles from it, and therefore it was fortunate for him,
perhaps, that he did not attempt to push further. The
party saw many natives on their journey, but they
always burnt their camps and fled on" seeing the
explorers. In giving this account of the discoveries
of McMillan, I have purposely refrained from mentioning
the names given by him to the rivers, as they were
afterwards superseded by those bestowed on them by
Count Strzelecki, whose party met McMillan on the
mountains, as he returned from his expedition. The
Count had already seen the territory from the range,
and was about to explore it when he encountered
McMillan, The latter told his discoveries, and sent
back his stockman to point out the track. When
McMillan returned, he said as little as possible about his
discoveries in order to gain time to stock the portion of
the country which he required for squatting purposes.
When Count Strzelecki returned, he had no such motive
for secresy, and therefore immediately made known the
character of the beautiful country he had seen. It has
never been explained why he thus assumed the whole
merit of discoveries which he developed in an important
degree, but certainly did not initiate.
The Count's party made some very important ex
plorations in its journey. The general objects of the
expedition were to determine the course of the range
dividing the eastern and western waters, as well as to
complete a geognostic survey of the country in which
the Count had been for a long time engaged. The
party consisted of the leader, with Messrs. McArthur
and Riley, with servants, &c. They began by follow
ing up the valley of the Murray for seventy miles, until
they arrived at the foot of the highest peaks of the

446 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
Australian Alps. An ascent was immediately com
menced ; at noon, on the 15th February, they were on
the summit, amid those snoAvs whose dazzling pinnacles
had so enraptured Messrs. Hovell and Hume fifteen
years previously. The view was most beautiful ; above
was the dark-blue sky, and all around were the rugged
peaks, looking smooth, and gently swelling with their
snow drapery ; and underneath, seven thousand square
miles ,of diversified plains, amid which the silvery
windings of the Tumut, the Murrumbidgee, and the
Murray could be traced. The elevation from which the
view was obtained was named Mount Kosciusko, in con
sequence of the resemblance which it bore to a tumulus
erected over the remains of the patriot at Cracow,
From the summit of the mount, the party retraced
their steps to the source of the Conway Creek, pur
suing a route which finally led them to Lake Omeo.
This is a mountain basin, like Lakes George and
Bathurst, but much smaller, and the water scanty.
The country around was rich and fertile, and communi
cation was traced between it and the valley of the
Murray, which was a splendid slope of the finest
pasture. On entering Gippsland from this, the
Count and his party crossed a beautiful stream, whose
source was already occupied by the cattle station of
Messrs. Butler and McAlister. The channel, though
narrow at first, soon swelled out into a large river. As
cending a ridge to the southward, the Count obtained a
splendid view of the sea upon the south-east horizon,
with a fine undulating country in the foreground. The
river was found, after a course of seventy miles, to
empty itself into a lagoon which joined the extensive
lake already discovered by McMillan. A south-eastern
course led them to the second and third lagoon, the
lake, three hundred yards in width, spreading its waters
in a river-like form, until it finally terminated in a river,
about twenty yards in width. This river ran from
the high north-easterly spurs of the Dividing Range,
and its banks were steep and hilly. It was called the
Thompson, and the lake, Lake King.

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 447
After crossing the Thompson, they found a rich
undulating country, sloping away to the south, with
other rivers, named the Riley and McArthur. After
this, no difficulties whatever were found in travelling to
the sea, towards which they advanced for some days.
Thirty-five miles from the McAlister, was a fourth
river (the Perry) ; twelve miles beyond, a fifth (the
Dunlop) ; and four miles further a sixth, (the Barney) ;
but none of these were more than mountain streams,
and they all joined before reaching the coast. Two
fine wide plains lay upon the further side of the Barney,
and the scenery in the neighbourhood was, according to
the Count, the finest in Gippsland. To the north
were the Alps, with their snoAvy summits, looking like
sharp white clouds resting on the rugged hills ; to the
west was an undulating country of hill and valley, and
plain, while far away in the south-east the first eleva
tion of the coast range was dimly visible.
Beyond the plains the explorers travelled through
twenty miles of open forest land. It was like a plain
at first, but gradually narrowed into an open valley,
as the coast range and the Dividing Range approached
each other. The spurs* of the ridge soon intercepted
the direct course, being succeeded by a thick scrub
fringing another river close by. At this point it
became necessary to change the course to about north
west, and after two days a crossing-place was found
considerably higher up the river. The stream was
called the Maconochie. Fourteen miles further, in the
direction towards Corner Inlet, brought them to an
eighth river, larger than any they had hitherto met ;
it was called La Trobe. Like all the preceding
ones, it discharged itself into a lake which was subse
quently discovered. The aspect of the country, Count
Strzelecki observed, varied in this portion of Gipps
land. The river Machonochie Avas almost a boundary
between the valleys and the hilly ground to the south
west and the undulating forest extending to the north
east. On the river La Trobe rich plains were no more
to be seen, but in their place Avere wide and deep valleys

448 DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF AUSTRALIA.
to the north-west, and hilly ranges to the south, inter
spersed with innumerable creeks clothed with exuberant
vegetation. From a neighbouring hill a view of the
whole country was obtained, including the Dividing
Range as far as Wilson's Promontory ; and all was of
that pleasing aspect which had greeted the explorers on
their first entrance into Gippsland.
After leaving the river La Trobe, the course to
Corner Inlet was resumed ; but the utter exhaustion of
the horses began seriously to impede the progress of
the party, and in a few days it was found necessary to
abandon them. All those engaged in the expedition
had been for five weeks on an allowance of one biscuit
and a slice of bacon per day ; and even at this rate, the
remainder of the provisions would only last four days.
With great regret, the Count was forced to abandon his
project of tracing the main range down to Wilson's
Promontory, but the state of the party made it impera
tive that he should reach Western Port as soon as
possible. The route now commenced led for twenty-
four days through a scrubby country, covered with the
finest blue gum and stringy bark ; but the scrub in
places was almost impenetrable, especially to the
explorers, who were so much weakened by starvation.
On some days the advance would only be a mile or so,
and. even in this distance every foot of the way had to
be cut through. The Count was indefatigable. Very
often he made a path by throwing himself bodily upon
the bushes, and thus breaking an opening by the weight
of his muscular frame. They were soon entirely out of
provisions, but found a sort of substitute by living
on the native bear (Phascolarctus cinereus), which was
plentiful even in the forests. Happily, both the ascent
and descent of the Dividing Range in the direction of
Western Port was gradual. A few lateral spurs were
the only other difficulties of the kind encountered, and
they at last reached Western Port in a most exhausted
condition, the lives of all being, no doubt, preserved by
the energy and perseverance of their leader.
With these discoveries we terminate the first epoch

THE FLINDERS RANGE AND GIPPSLAND. 449
of Australian discovery. The state of knowledge with
regard to the colonies themselves could not be carried
much further. All that could be known about Sydney,
Melbourne, Adelaide, and Perth was finally ascer
tained, and exploring operations were now free to solve
the mystery of the interior. How rapid has been the
advance of knowledge since then, the succeeding volume
will show ; and if it bids farewell to the fertility and
richness of pastoral scenery near the coast, it can give
in exchange more romantic adventures, and a history of
more devoted energy in prosecuting the cause that we
have had to record in the foregoing pages.

END OF VOL. f.

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