YALI IINIVI ITU ' ' IBRAR1 3 9002 06424 7027 "/give thefe Books \ for the fdnindrng of e College ai, tMs;_Cold/iy! Deposited by the Linonian and Brothers Library /?/9 ¦,HIBSBN.mL I * * 9 THE GREAT THIRST LAND A Ride through Natal, Orange Free State, Transvaal, and Kalahari Desert. BY PARKER GILLMORE, Author of "-Afloat and Ashore]' " All Round the World," " Prairie and Forest,' " Gun, Sod, and Saddle," "Accessible Field Sports," "Adventures in the Far West," "Prairie Farms and Prairie Folks" " Lone Life," §c. §c'. WITH A FRONTISPIECE. Cassell Petter * Galpin LONDON, PARIS $ NEW YORK. [all rights reserved. To MY DEAR OLD MOTHER I DEDICATE THIS BOOK, AS A SLIGHT BETUEN POK THE MANY ANXIOUS HOUKS I HAVE CAUSED HEE WHEN WANDEEING IN DISTANT LANDS. PARKER GILLMORE. PREFACE. I shoot for the pot — id est, to fill the pot; when that is done I cease to take the lives of valuable, food-furnishing animals. Thus I have to record no wonderful bags of game, but simply the killing of what was absolutely necessary for the support of myself and attendants. Further, this narrative is written with the hope of amusing and instructing the general reader, as well as to impart information to the sportsman, that will enable him to find the lion and the elephant. Moreover, let no one be led away with the idea that every one has the privilege of shooting in. these distant parts. So far from this being the case, it is only by special favour one can obtain permission to hunt large game in " The Great Thirst Land." And, lastly, I would say that with moderate ex penditure and half a dozen attendants I will pass through Africa from south to north, and probably not take more than a year to do it. My method is sim plicity itself, and would probably not involve the death of a human being. The modus operandi, however, will only be imparted to those desirous to assist me in the undertaking. p. a. 15, Claverton Street, London, S. W. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL. PAGE Herefordshire— The Term " Hunting "—A Visit to the West— An Invitation — My Friend Morris — Sport in the Highlands — The Battery — Buying Guns — Our Armament — Beads and Gewgaws — Particulars of our Per sonal Outfit 1 CHAPTER II. PEOM LONDON DOCKS TO DABTMOUTH. Berths booked — Scenes at Parting — Bustle at the Docks — Brusque John Bull and Polite Frenchman — Our Vessel — British and French Sailors — Good-byes at Gravesend — Down Channel — Dutch Galliots — French Luggers — Johnny Crapaud — A Fruiterer — Opposition Sailing on the Mississippi — Beauty of Dartmouth 9 CHAPTER m. MT PELLOW-PASSENGEES. Our Cwisine — Reminiscences of Olden Days — Plum Duff — A Tarn — An Old Acquaintance — " The Plunger " — Mr. Holly — The Clergyman — A Pilau a la Chinoise — Mr. and Mrs. Crommy 17 CHAPTER IV. FEOM MADEIBA TO THE CAPE. A Charmed Island — Madeira from the Sea — Its Foreign Aspect — Old Build ings and their Inmates — New Blood Wanted — Land Sharks — Its Horses — Teneriffe — A Splendid Picture — African Memories — " Whales ! " — Experience Teaches Whales — Porpoises, Bonito, and Skip- Jacks — Amuse ments on Board Ship — A Death at Sea — Holly redivivus — The Plunger's Little Game — The Poundmaster's Ignorant Insolence — Table Bay . . 24 -viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. FIRST IMPEESSIONS OP SOUTH APEICA. ^^ Holly joins us-On the Look-out for a Coaster— Our Plans Altered— We Purchase a Wagon— A Visit to Kondebosch and Constantia— A Private Garden— South African Pick-me-up not to be recommended— Adieu to Cape Town— We reach Port Elizabeth— A Funny Lot of Visitors— The Poundmaster exposed— Port Elizabeth— The Florence— East London- Its Dangerous Roadstead— First Sight of Game— Arrival at Port Durban —Its Bar— A Day Lost in Sight of Land— Preparing for our Journey —Port Durban— The Upper and Middle Classes— The "Smart" Men of Durban— A Splendid Ride— The Best Drivers in the World . - 34 CHAPTER VI. ME. PBEPEB, OP PEEPEE'S HOTEL. A Week of Laughter— Mine Host— An Oddity— His Peculiar Way of trans acting Business— Prefer' s Nationality— " AU mine, all mine"— Pound your Cattle— Various Purchases of Live Stock— I ride on to Howiek— A Fearful Storm— Summit House— Howick— Its Loveliness— No Wagon— A Chapter [of Accidents— Holly dismissed— Zeiderberg's Team — Reach Howick at last — Catch a Cropper almost 46 CHAPTER VII. SAULTED HOUSES — TOKE-OXEN — MT ATTENDANTS. Horse-sickness — Where found — Season of the Epidemic — Its Eacial Effects Symptoms — Value of Saulted Horses — Death of a Horse from this Disease — Suggested Bemedies — Lung-sickness — Proposed Cures — Lead ing Oxen — Hints for the Proper Care of Oxen — Dental Surgeon, pro tem. I extract the Wrong Tooth — Difficulties about my Attendants — Sus picious Cattle-dealers — Their Little Game — Caution to Travellers — How Missionaries get on — Umganey — Jim — Imp — The Interpreter's Speech — A Secret Benefactor 56 CHAPTER VIII. BEEAKS-DOWN ON THE BOAD. Treck-tow Smashed — Treachery — For Hire — Reinforcements — On the Move at Last — Another Delay — On the Road again — A Long Three-miles Bide — Difficulties of Getting to the Game — Hints — Sunday Peace — Mine Host — A Canny Scot — Mr. Currie comes to Terms — Our New Boy — Everything going right now — The Driver's Villainy — I give him a Thrashing — Skimmel-pin Broken — The Wagon seemingly a Wreck — Vexation of Spirit — Morris starts to Buy a New Skimmel-pin — Un loading the Wagon — Boers to the Rescue — A Diplomatic Palaver — Coffee and Bum — The Boers' Family Love — More Soupje — Help Purchased — Out of Trouble 65 CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER IX. OUE BOEB ASSISTANTS — AN UNEXPECTED MEETING. PAGE Pow-wow with the Boers — A Bargain struck — The Intimidation Game — The Cattle-dealer Checkmated — At a Standstill — In Karkloof Valley — A Meeting of Boers — Propitiatory Beverage — The Sort of Men they were — The Boer — More Outlay — My After-oxen, Ackerman and Brightman — Morris ill — In my hands — An Unexpected Pleasure — Jack Bennett — More Friends — Merry-making — Holly to the fore again — A Magnificent Midnight Scene — Bontebuck — Camp struck and Friends part . . 78 CHAPTER X. MT FEIEND INVALIDED. One of the Boers' Wagons comes to Grief — We arrange for a New Wheel — A Useful Hill— Wilful William— Another Smash— Our Dogs— Mother and Child — Working like Slaves — No Progress — Off for Help — Hill Cattle in Africa — Friendly English — They put us to rights — Bushman's River — Accidents to our Horse and Pony — The Superintendent of the Natal Mounted Police — Morris so IU that he must Recruit — A Sad Meal — I Part from my Friend — Holly's Sorrow — Alone — Off for a Hunt — The Natal Partridge — Quail — The Dogs in Full Cry — Filling a Pipe : the Various Processes, hurriedly, meditatively, angrily — A Shot at Bush- buck — The Game at Bay — Bring it Down — A Warning about Bush-buck 90 CHAPTER XL CBOSSING THE DBACKENBERG. Colenso — Curious Custom of Naming Towns — An Excellent Cuisine — A Smart v. a Handsome Man — The Men who get on — " The Rising Sun " — Fish for Dinner — Are not Sardines Fish ? — Night-marches — Umganey is "Bass's Boy" — The Lad's Willingness — Morris Rejoins me — White Savages — The Great Phairshon — William's Masterly Activity — Choco late-making — Ready for the Ascent of the Drackenberg — The Shooting of Olephwnts — " Do you Eng.lishmans want the Transvaal P " — Native Animus against British Rule — Van Renan's Pass — Dore's Illustrations of the Inferno — The Passage Begun — Klipping-r-Crawling on — Narrow Escapes — Very Cold — The Summit is Passed — Hurrah ! 102 CHAPTER XII. EN EOUTE POE THE TEANSVAAL. Rest after the Passage — " We twa hae paidl't in the Burn " — Independent of the Boers, if need be — Bed-water — No Cure — How the Mystery might be Solved — An Extraordinary Finch — What a Tail ! — An Expensive Toll — Bob and the Pig — Harrismith — The Barrack-masters of Old — CONTENTS. PAGE The "Roughs" of South Africa— A Law-abiding Population— Are the Boers Temperate ?— A Dutch Beauty— Baboons on our Way— The Sentinel Mount— Memories of the Past— Three Splendid Mountains- Capped by Castle, Crown, and Mitre— Our Cook— His one Great FaiUng —Advice to Bachelors— How to enjoy a Meal on the Sly— The Kaffir Crane— Fevers— Our Driver's Task— The Boer's Love of Wife and Children— Habits of the Boer 118 CHAPTER XIII. AMONG THE BOEBS. New Tear's Day— First Signs of Game— The Spring-buck— Crossing a Spruit —Rather too much Hospitality— An Invitation to a Wedding — William Elevated — His Repertoire — The Scene of Rejoicing — William Sober but Sad — A Vain Attempt to Sleep — Morris in like Predicament — Suffering from Gnats — Reflections under the Attack — My Cattle in Pound — Released 133 CHAPTER XIV. GAME, GAME, NOTHING BUT GAME. The Dutchman of South Africa, — His 'Cuteness — How he Works the Oracle — My Soreness at being " Done " — We start after Game — My Gillie — A Persistent Dog — Elaborate Preparations to Discover Buck — Mag nificent Sight — The Dog Spoils everything — Is Slaughtered, but by Accident — Morris again Indisposed — Pony Attacked by a Snake — The Puff-adder — About Snakes — A Splendid Chase — Bob comes to Grief and Bonte doesn't Bag his Quarry — " Murderous " Sport — The. Butchers at Work — Coran — Mending and Tailoring — The Sewing Machine a Doubtful Blessing — The Birds of South Africa — Morris to be looked after 142 CHAPTER XV. PAT MOLLOT — MOEBIS BEOKEN DOWN. Hendrick's Splendid Shot — An Amusing Chase — Unearthing a Ratel — Search for " Vater " — A Comical but Inhospitable Old Woman — " Is it Water ye mane ? " — A Drop of the Crathur — My Talk with Pat — " A Great Day for Ireland intirely" — Mrs. Molly — Our Dissel-boom comes to Grief — Boers " Flitting " — The Head of the Procession — Ostriches not such Fools as they Look — Ostriches on the Offensive — How to Capture them — The Vaal River — Making a Dissel-boom — In the Transvaal at Last — Charon — A Dear Bottle of Brandy — Getting the Cattle over the River — Poonah and his Little Trioks — Morris's Dislike to him Pots- chefstrom — Imp absquatulates — A Queer Set of Physicians — Morris has to Return Home for his Health — FareweU — Alone .... 154 CONTENTS. encampment there are building remains, and a quantity of loose stones, also a few fig-trees — aU indicative that a human habitation once stood in the neighbourhood, but I suppose proximity to the marsh and probably mosquitoes drove the inhabitants off to more favoured regions. Fevers in this part of Africa are only engendered by the vicinity of stagnant water, so that, although water is necessary for cattle, and the Boers are essentiaUy stock-farmers, they will not build except where is to be found an abundance of water. Each farmer oAvns such immense tracts of land that it is rarely a difficult matter to do this. The next two days passed over. Neither of us went in search of game, still, we both picked up something by the roadside ; in fact, we had scarcely time to hunt, as our drivers hurried on as fast as the cattle could travel ; for, remember, their frows and kinderkins were anxiously awaiting their return, and anticipating with pleasure the numerous good things that their soil- stained parents had in store for them. A point very much to be admired in the Boer character is their love for wife and children : they constantly talk of them, and sound their praises to those they converse with. Hendrick, who was the chief among our party, was a good-looking man of four- and-twenty, about five feet ten inches high, rather sparely built, and capable of great endurance and speed. He was very retiring, and rarely spoke unless addressed first. Pater, on the other hand, was short and stout, always had something to say, unless when playing on the violin, an instrument that produced the most doleful sounds — even more so than the cats on the J 2 132 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. tiles in Pimlico. Their food was of the simplest kind — rusk-bread as hard as bricks, bad coffee, and indifferent sugar; no stimulants, and no animal meat. Parsi- moniousness was doubtless the cause of their not having the two last articles, for these transport -drivers make a great deal of money — more than any one at home would imagine — and are really at little or no expense. But if they preferred going without to spending their own money, not a qualm of conscience had they about sponging on us. CHAPTEB XIII. AMONG THE BOEBS. New Tear's Day— First Signs of Game — The Spring Buck — Crossing a Spruit — Rather too much Hospitality — An Invitation to a Wedding — William Elevated — His Repertoire — The Scene of Rejoicing — William Sober but Sad — A Vain Attempt to Sleep — Morris in Uke Predicament— Suffering from Gnats — Reflections under the Attack — My Cattle in Pound — Released. New Year's Dat. Fine clear weather, and not too warm. We commenced trecking soon after daybreak ; the cattle were in exceUent spirits, and we got along right merrily. About seven I shot a hare and a par tridge from the road. The former, although severely wounded, gave the dogs quite a run before it was captured ; and if it had not been hit none of our pack could have overtaken it. About eleven, the first spring bucks we had seen came over the brow of a swell in the velt ; they were apparently very tame, although they must have seen our wagons, oxen, and selves, and evinced more curiosity than fear. We intended as soon as we outspanned to have a shot at them, but before that took place we stuck in a deep boggy spruit, out of which it required our full strength and the loss of an hour to extricate the wagon ; so the cracking of whips, shouting of men, and strug gling of the cattle frightened them off to parts unknown. Thus we had seen the avant-courier of the immense 134 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. herds of game that are before us ; and I do not think we regretted' not having caused some of their numbers to bite the dust. If we had been short of food it would have been different, but we had still an abundance of that necessary. I have seen the spring-buck before ; and although I had only time to take a casual glance at them on this occasion, they seemed to look more beautiful than ever they did previously. There is no doubt that they are among the handsomest animals in the world, and are to the African continent what the prong-horned antelope is to the American. There is also a consider able resemblance between them in configuration of body, only that of the New World is the larger. During our midday outspan the halt was taken advantage of to get our rifles unpacked and put in order, for at any moment now we might find ourselves in the middle of game. At three o'clock we unspanned, and came down a rather steep and difficult hiU-side. When we reached the bottom we found that the spruit where the road crossed it was impassable, so we had to make a long detour to our right to find a ford. After proceeding nearly a mile we discovered a place which had been used for this purpose previously, so the cattle were wheeled abruptly at it, Umganey, divested of every particle of clothing, foreloping. No person who has not witnessed what a Cape wagon can go through would believe that anything constructed of wood and iron would stand such usage as they have to be subjected to, without breaking. All the cattle were now in the water up to their stomachs, pulling their utmost, William on the box cracking his long whip and shouting as if hfe and death LESSONS IN DRIVING. 135 depended on the issue, when in goes the wagon down the precipitous spongy bank with such a rush as nearly to bury the forepart of the box under water ; the hind wheels soon after foUow, the whole fabric swaying to and fro, threatening an upset ; then slowly righting itself, it moves forward at a snaU's pace. The far side is almost reached when snap ! goes the treck-tow, and the released oxen rush up the bank, leaving the wagon so deeply buried that but for its heavy load it would have almost floated. To rectify the breaking of the treck-tow is always a tedious job, for when out of the reach of a blacksmith a green reim has to be procured and woven in and out through three or four of the links on either side of the fracture. Seeing that half an hour at least must elapse before we could extricate ourselves, Morris took his gun and went doAvn the spruit in search of wildfowl, while I remained to assist WiUiam and to learn all the devices necessary for getting wagons out of difficulties under any circumstances that may arise. I did not expect ever to become a good driver ; still without being' so, when alone on the velt and no European to assist, I might be able to detect at a glance what would be the proper means to adopt under emer gencies, and, if necessary, show how to do it. On a cargo of knowledge you do not require to pay any freight. Our predicament was worse than we anticipated ; the delay had allowed the wagon to settle in the soft spongy bottom, so that all the efforts of our cattle could not move it. But Hendrick had now come up; disrobing himself tUl he was in the costume of ancient Gaul, he brought his sturdy team over, hitched 136 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. his treck-tow to the end of ours, and with a long puU and a puU together, placed us on the opposite bank. This spruit was a very bad place, for, independent of its abruptness, it was so marshy that the wheels sunk many inches underneath the surface of the soil. Hendrick's wagon followed and got through without casualty, but not without a hard struggle ; Pater was less fortunate ; not only did he stick, but even Avith the assistance of Hendrick's team he could not get out, so the third team (ours) had to be put on, and even then the cattle seemed to have a very difficult part to perform. At last all were across ; we pushed up the opposing bank, and after half an hour's treck halted in front of a white farmhouse, with large cattle kraal attached. We had scarcely done so when Morris came up ; he had several ducks, the common species of this part of the country (Querquedula Hottentota of Smith), which are a handsome dark-brown colour, not distinguished by any gaudy feathers, and about the size of our widgeon. After a survey of the game I went over to the house, which I found crowded Avith Boers, all pretty well " on." As soon as I entered, the senior of the party asked me to drink with him, which I did, driver William acting as interpreter. No sooner, however, had I finished the first glass, than another requested me to repeat the operation. I hate to refuse hospitality, for certainly this was meant as such, and I drank again ; but when a third insisted that I should have a glass at his expense, I was compelled to refuse. Flesh and blood can stand a great deal, but not much bad Hollands. These men were keeping New Year, the great holiday, with them, of the twelve months. WILLIAM "OVERCOME." 137 But here theh* kindness did not terminate : there was a grand party going on at a house four or five miles farther along the road, in consequence of a marriage that had taken place, and to this we were cordially invited ; and as an inducement to accept the invitation, we were informed that a young English lady was one of the guests. I gave a conditional promise, for I did not know how Morris would feel on the subject, and without him I was resolved not to go. However, all the Boers immediately afterwards assembled outside on horseback, ranged themselves in a line across the road, like a troop of cavalry, and giving a war-whoop, started for the scene of rejoicings as fast as spur and whip would make their steeds go. Poor WiUiam had drunk with every one. On our numerous good qualities he largely expatiated : we were so fond of him — we loved him like a brother — without him we never could have crossed the Drackenberg — and we most assuredly should come to see the English young lady. This was all well enough; but when I had to assist William — no light weight — and with the help of Hendrick and Pater hoist him on the wagon- box, I thought the jocular part was played out. The road was straight, the track well defined; so Avith Umganey foreloping, and myself on the box with a powerful jambock to control the after-cattle, we got on so-so. William was a long time attacked with a musical furore : foreign songs appeared his forte, but in his list I could neither recognise "Die Wacht am Bhein," "Partant pour la Syrie," nor the " Marseillaise ;" however, he appeared to have a very extensive repertoire. After completing his musical performance he became loquacious — gave me a slight sketch of his antecedents 138 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and his relatives, both male and female ; then spoke as to his own ability, ending each sentence with, " I a good man," which no one denied; but the oftener he repeated it the more emphatic he became. At length there was a long silence. I hoped that he had com menced to see the error of his ways, and was inter nally vowing to sin no more ; that his conscience told him he was a transgressor; and that silently he contemplated the heinousness of his past conduct. Presently we passed the scene of rejoicings ; the -windows were aU ablaze, such as you see at Buckingham Palace when a Court ball is taking place. Let me remark, en passant, that so well do they manage these things here, that they had neither soldiers nor police to resist the mob or make the conveyances keep order. We did not halt, but passed on to the next out spanning-place ; before we reached which, our wagon stuck in a spruit, and all the efforts of two teams of cattle could not extricate us. So there we had to make up our minds to. remain all night. Half-an-hour after the abrupt halt we had been brought to, William presented himself; his expression was sad, his clothing disordered. I expected nothing more than that he had come to ask me to examine the medicine chest and give him a bolus or skUfully mixed draft of the most potent ingredients. With a due pause, sufficient to give dignity to his words, in very measured and very concise terms, he said, "Bass, I am so hungry ! " With gravity becoming the occasion I referred him to Imp. That day had been one of great excitement- I am not in the pristine heyday of youth ; I have got over the vanities attached to dress, or the questionable UNABLE TO SLEEP. 139 longing for decorations ; nor do I now crave to dance with the beUe of the ball, or take the intimate friend of the hostess — an heiress, possessed of the wealth of the Indies — down to dinner. No ; in the language of the poet, beautiful and expressive, " I am simmering down," therefore I wished to go to bed, and so did my friend. There was no reason why we should not do so that I am aware of ; in truth, we had both got into our pan- jamas, and I was having the last few " draws " of my pipe before turning on my left side, when William raised the curtain of the wagon and begged to know if we were not going to attend the convivialities. Being most em phatically answered in the negative, we were informed that he was going. Very nearly was I saying, " Go, and be hanged," but politeness, an intuitive feeling by which we never lose anything, and strongly inculcated into me in my youth, caused me to pause ; therefore I only said, "By all means, WiUiam; but pray see that the cattle are tied up." WiUiam retired, assuring me that that would be his first duty. I had finished my pipe, and was composing myself to sleep on the left side ; thoughts of the disappoint ment the English Beauty would suffer by the two knight-errants of her own race not waiting on her being uppermost in my mind. Still, I did not sleep. I there fore tried the right side, but two or three reports of guns took place immediately afterwards, so still I did not sleep. I again reverted to the original position — it was unquestionably the right way to rest — and lay stUl, how long I don't know, hut an age it appeared. Yet I did not sleep, so I tried my back, and endeavoured to count the hoops that supported the roof of the wagon. 140 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " You're not asleep ? " said a gentle voice. " No, no — that is," endeavouring to pretend that if not actually asleep I was next door to it. "I can't sleep," said the speaker; "it's no use, I have turned every way, and, tired as I am, I cannot sleep." .Inhuman monster that I am, I was delighted that some one else was situated in the same disagreeable position as myself. " Can't you, though ? " said I, pitying his misfor tunes, not acknowledging my own ; " what can be the cause r " Mosquitoes, I think." " No, I have not heard any." " Neither have I," said my friend. So I got up and lit the lamp, quite out of com miseration for him, of course, and oh ! oh ! oh ! the whole interior of the wagon was swarming Avith millions of the most diminutive gnats. They were on the bed clothes, on the wagon roof, and when I looked at my legs and arms I commenced to think that instead of a white man I was a pepper-and-salt-coloured one. We both sat up and entered into conversation, and were jolly on the subject, it was such a good joke. Scratch myself ? No ; a man of my calibre is above such weakness ; but human patience could stand it no longer. I resolved to have one scratch ; I did — one, two, three scratches, and the remainder of an hour was one unin terrupted scratch. At this time a happy thought struck me — I will get the rum and bathe my whole body Avith it. I did so, but the wretches were not only fond of the human species, but also fond of what the human species is partial to. I did not Avait to see if I had been con- SUFFERING FROM AN ATTACK OF GNATS. 141 verted into a black man, but rushed into my clothes, seized my pipe, and hurried to the highest ground I could find, and on a higher than it — the summit of an ant-hill — I sat dovm and thought — and thought how weak we were when a few midges could tickle us so. So great was my affection for my friend that I never thought of seeing what he did or how he Avas getting on ; I had too much regard for his feelings to disturb him when suffering from human weakness. Aurora's car was about to enter the east when WiUiam, the faithful and tried henchman, approached his lord and master, and after making a respectful obeisance, informs him that the enemy during the night had made a descent and carried off aU his lordship's cattle, which, at the present moment, were being conveyed to the pound at Harrismith. " Zounds, varlet, you lie ! " " No, Bass, I speak the truth." " Order my horse to be saddled and marshal my foUowers ; begone ! do my bidding." I rushed to the wagon, pulled on my boots, buckled on my long sword, saddle, bridle — or, rather, took my rifle, shoved a revolver into the holsters, and was about to jump into the saddle, when an emissary of the foe arrived to say the cattle would be released on payment of two pounds sterling, although they had eaten over an acre of mealies. The money was paid, the cattle were returned, and I rejoiced that I was prevented from shedding blood. CHAPTEB XIV. GAME, GAME, NOTHING BUT GAME. The Dutchman of South Africa — His 'Cuteness — How He Works the Oracle — My Soreness at being " Done " — We start after Game — My Gillie — A Persistent Dog — Elaborate Preparations to Discover Buck — Magnificent Sight — The Dog Spoils Everything — Is Slaughtered, but by Accident — Morris again Indisposed — Pony Attacked by a Snake — The Puff-Adder — About Snakes — A Splendid Chase — Bob comes to Grief and Bonte doesn't Bag his Quarry — "Murderous" Sport — The Butchers at Work — Coran — Mending and Tailoring — The Sewing Machine a Doubtful Blessing — The Birds of South Africa — Morris to be looked after. Trult the Dutchman of South Africa is a strange being ; he is neither flesh, fish, nor good red herring, aU of which I am more or less acquainted with; but one thing I can say as far as regards myself, whether he acts the manly part or the stupid part, the insignificant part or the cowardly part, when you settle difficulties with him you are morally certain to owe him money. I do not know how it is, but they are always dinning into your ears that they are so weak, so innocent, that you believe them the most abused class in the world ; your suspicions are consequently lulled and your sym pathies aroused, and thus you forget, or rather dislike, to show them that you disbelieve their assertions by exercising necessary prudence. Many of my countrymen live among them and make fortunes. Heaven help me if I had a fortune to spend and lived amongst them ! I would soon get rid of it. They don't " do " you like a Yorkshireman, a Glasgow- TAKEN IN BY A BOER. 143 man, a Yankee, or a Blue-nose ; their little dodges you can learn with experience, but the Boer does it and you never learn how he works the oracle. Bah ! I'll think no more about them, if it was not that in my opinion a man born north of the Tweed should never be done by any one. We trecked on the foUowing day, and at noon, during the halt, had every blanket out in the sun, and every stitch of raiment removed from our feverish bodies. I rode on in front, and although several shots presented themselves, I was too occupied in thought to avail myself of the opportunities. No, I had been taken advantage of ; the enemy had come like a thief in the night, and as a reward had the two gold sovereigns in his pocket. I wished sincerely that he might spend them at the low grog-shop where we halted yesterday, and be suitably punished by the liquor which his iU-gotten gains could purchase. It is no use grieving over spilt milk, not a bit, so I shaU make up my mind to think no more of it ; but it is hard to know that there are people who would take advantage of a young man from the (old) country like me, and in the middle of a desolate uninhabited velt, walk your cattle off to Harrismith. Harrismith ! I hate the very name now. When we outspanned that evening there was game, spring-buck and bless-buck round us in every direction ; but as it was late and we had made a very long treck, we determined not to trouble them that evening, but be "up in the morning early, before the break of day." A cup of cocoa and a biscuit sufficed, when off we started, Morris going one way and I the reverse. Each took an attendant. My gillie was a Kaffir that we 144 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. had picked up at Eland river ; he had all the vices of the white man and none of the virtues of his own race. I and my Day-and-Martin-skinned Ganymede had not gone over a quarter of a mile, when we discovered that the black bitch that I have spoken of before was following us. Oberon tried to coax her to him, but no, she knew too much (she was an Africander dog). Then I tried ; I spoke in the pleasantest tones and used the most endearing terms, but she refused to listen to the voice of the charmer; so she was peremptorily ordered home, and several rocks — not stones — hurled at her. All was useless, she would go Avith us, yet she would not be one of us. I crossed a ridge and quietly ascended the slope of another. On hands and knees I carefully crawled to the sky-line; as I approached it I resembled the tortoise in pace and the serpent in stealthiness. At last I reached the summit, and was about to look over. I thought it would be better to take off my cap first, to get more range of vision Avith less elevation. I did so, and then remembered that my head was bald and very polished, and as the sun was behind me the light might reflect off it ; deeming that would not do, I accordingly plucked a handful of grass, and placing it on the top of my pate, inch by inch I raised myself; very little more would do it, very little ; so half -inch by half- inch I pushed myself upwards. The grass on my head was now above the ridge ; very little more would elevate my eyes suffi ciently to command the view ; on a rough calculation three-quarters of an inch and one barleycorn. Would you believe it ? So cautious was I that it took four minutes and a half to accomplish this. My eyes had attained sufficient altitude, and Well, then, no AN IRREPRESSIBLE DOG. 145 buck was there. The next hill we treated' in exactly the same manner, but when we looked over a lagoon of water was discovered beneath us, with hundreds of wild beasts, bless-buck, and spring -buck, standing knee-deep, enjoying its refreshing influences ; many of them were within two hundred and forty yards, but as I felt con vinced that Morris or some of the Boers would bring home game, I desisted firing, and enjoyed looking at their playful antics and innocent gambols. But con found that black dog ! she saw the game and dashed at it. In a moment all was confusion, for in an instant after they deployed into one unbroken line and made for a point to my right front, where the track bent. Making the best spurt I could, I rushed forward under shelter to cut them off, or at least see them cross the road. I was in time, and a prettier sight I never saw, for with one accord in succession they cleared »it at a bound ; and strange to say, although within one hundred and fifty yards of them, I never looked along my barrel, or thought of doing so. I shaU remember that sight as long as I live, and shaU not the less enjoy it when I think that I witnessed it without murderous intentions. If I and my people had required food I should not have hesitated, but three better hunters than myself were out to kiU game, and I knew they would not come home empty-handed. On my way back to the wagons, about seven o'clock, I saw a solitary spring- buck in a hoUow. I made a stalk up-wind to observe its habits, when the brute of a dog, watching my movements, got on an ant-heap, and dis covered the game I wished to approach. With a bound she rushed down the face of the slope, and both spring buck and hound disappeared over the neighbouring rise. K 146 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. In a few minutes the abominable dog came back. She would neither allow herself to be caught nor driven home, so I took the smooth-bore from my Kaffir's hands — it was loaded Avith No. 5 shot — and as she skulked round at about eighty yards' distance, I deter mined to give her a reminder that when her company was not required, she had better not tender it against my wiU. I certainly did not mean to kiU her, but I wished to hurt her, so I fired ; she gave one bound in the air, a spasmodic struggle, and all was over. For what had happened I was sorry, but the brute brought it on herself. With Morris I discussed the matter afterwards, and the universal verdict was — served her right. How many buck were killed that morning I do not remember, but my friend had been most successful. However, it took our own Kaffirs, and many friends and relations picked up by the, roadside — for when there was meat forthcoming there were always relations to be found — two days to consume it. The skins of spring buck are too delicate to be tanned, consequently are thrown away. Morris indisposed again, showing feverish symptoms, and a very rapid pulse. As there is game all round about the wagons he wanted to go after it. I persuaded him not to, but keep under the wagon-tent out of the sun. I fear aU I can say is of no use, for he avUI not believe that he is half as bad as I represent. As soon as we outspanned I had the saddle put on the Basuto pony, and, taking Bonte and Bob Avith me, rode round a neighbouring hUl to see what quantity of game there was at the back of it. Being attracted by the beauty of a new orchid, I dismounted to examine it, A SNAKE ADVENTURE. 147 and having done so, not being in a hurry, I slipped my arm through the bridle and walked leisurely forward. Bob was about ten yards in front of me, pursuing the same course, when suddenly he jumped on one side. I knew it was a snake that had alarmed him, so, dropping my reins, I proceeded to discover of what breed it was, and if possible destroy it. It was the smaU species of the puff-adder — the horned puff-adder — the cerastes, I believe, of the ancients, and which is represented to have been the reptile used by Cleopatra to compass her own destruction. It was lying on some bare sand, in the usual figure of 8 shape, a favourite attitude with all this family. I imagine their great thickness in proportion to their length is the reason they do not coU themselves up as other species do. The creature in question I soon dispatched with a stone, and examined the glands, which were surcharged with poison. The Boers and Kaffirs consider this one of the most poisonous of the numerous reptiles of this country. While speaking of snakes, another' species, well known in the colony as the sheep- sticker, and pronounced to be very poisonous, from ex amination of specimens that I have killed, I am inchned to believe innocuous. On one occasion I saw a cat catch one in a lady's drawing-room, and so far did puss seize it from the head, that if the creature had been venomous its destroyer's life would have been sacrificed. On ¦ returning to the pony, and taking hold of the reins, as soon as I advanced my hand to his head-staU to reverse them over his neck, he shied back as if in „ great alarm, and it required some minutes before he would permit me to closely approach. The reason of this conduct in so staid and proper-minded an animal K 2 148 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. is obvious ; in handling the adder, some of the smeU attached to its body must have adhered to my hands. How great and wise are the provisions of nature ! Besides the virulence of the puff-adder, there is another reason why it is more to be dreaded than the majority of other snakes. It is almost exactly the colour of the dark-brown sand, and is invariably to he found on it, with the lower part of the body slightly submerged in it. Again nature's wondrous handiwork shows itself ; for if the colour of the ground and reptUe did not closely approximate, how could so sluggish an animal obtain its prey ? True, it can make one short quick spring, but it cannot crawl over the ground with the swiftness of other species. Leaving the snakes alone (and a man who hunts in Africa will never be successful if he fears a. snake in every bush or under every tuft of grass he passes, for his eyes must be elsewhere than watching his feet), I mounted the pony, and continued round the point of the hill. As I climbed one slope I saw several spring-buck and bless-buck go over the opposite ridge ; so, bearing off more to the right, so as to improve the wind, I cautiously advanced in the direction I thought they had taken. A large rock lay in my route, and under its shelter I left the pony, and keeping both dogs close to me, I carefully approached the crest Avith cocked rifle. A spring-buck, unconscious of my presence, stood three hundred yards off ; at least, I judged that to be about the distance. I took a cool coUected aim, and pressed the trigger ; the baU passed over its back ; with the re port a bless-buck, which must have been within fifty " ' yards of me, jumped up ; the dogs saw it in an instant, and were in pursuit, whUe I greeted the quarry with A SPLENDID RUN. 149 a couple of old-country hunting cheers. At first the hounds gained rapidly on their game, and I expected every moment to see Bob pin it by the ear, when he put Iris foot in a meercat hole, and completed two or three somersaults before he could pick himself up. Poor fellow ! he had no heart or power to go farther ; for, on three legs, with a woeful countenance he came to my side. In the meantime Bonte was making a famous race of it — several times I expected to see him lay hold ; once he did spring at the quarry's ear, but it artfully avoided the attack. TAvice more the buck was com peUed to turn to avoid being pinned; but the pace commenced to teU ; the antelope was in condition and the dog was not ; so, wUling in spirit but weak of body, he had to give up the chase ; and a splendid run it was, although there was no death at the finish. But now I have time to examine poor Bob, who has enjoyed looking at the run quite as much as myself. " Wo, old man, wo !" — for know, gentle reader, that he is a queer -tempered beast — " there, that will do ; your shoulder is not out of joint as I expected, but you are badly shaken; yes, old man" — why, surly Bob has actually licked my hand after putting him to so much pain. By the time I was mounted and ready to go on, Bonte came up, looking rather shame-facey, as the Chinamen say, still showing from his outstretched tongue and quivering limbs how hard he had tried to do his best. Why did I miss my shot ? I hear asked. I incor rectly judged the distance, believing the spring-buck to be farther off than it was. In Africa it is cur rently belieAred that you more frequently undershoot 150 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. on account of the rarefication of the atmosphere. This is quite a mistake in my experience, and Morris complained to me of making the same error. Hearing some shots off to the right, I rode half a mile in that direction, and Avitnessed a most de structive, I should say murderous, way of shooting. On a spring-cart — a conveyance not unlike an ex aggerated tax-cart — were four Boers, each armed with a rifle : between the horses' heads was a Kaffir, leading them when required, and halting as directed. In front of the butchers was a large drove of several hundred spring-buck densely packed together, their distance from the shooters being about four hundred yards. Into this living phalanx these unfeeling monsters were keep ing up a steady fusilade. Their success was all that such characters could desire, I regret to say. After leaving the Boers I found the game so wild that I shot no more, although I must have seen many thousand head of buck in the three hours that I was absent from the wagons. Just after we commenced to treck, Morris took the old pointer and one of the smooth-bore guns, and in a quarter of an hour shot six or seven coran. These are a splendid bird about the size of the hen caper cailzie, and are excellent eating : they lay fairly to a dog, and require a lot of hitting. At night and morning they call incessantly, invariably when doing so being perched on the top of an ant-hill. At that time they are difficult to approach nearer than vsithin eighty or ninety yards. Of this genus I have found four distinct species, the largest and best being possessed of a beautiful chestnut- brown plumage, but without bars on its wings : weight SUGGESTED ORIGIN OF THE SEWING-MACHINE. 151 about 7 lbs. The next in size is black ; very much like our black game, -with the exception of the tail : weight about 5^ lbs. The third is broAvn ; only about one pound lighter in weight than the black. The fourth is about the size of a cock red grouse ; more thickly built, and disposed to sit much more closely than the others. The first and last frequent bushes and corn-fields ; the other two, the open velt. Their call is exactly like their name, co-ran. They belong to the bustard famUy. Although plenty of game was in sight the following day, and several spring-buck were shot by the drivers, I did not leave the wagons, work being cut out for me in the shape of clothes-washing, mending, &c. &c. ; and it is perfectly surprising, if you neglect to attend to it, how the labour accumulates. "A stitch* in time saves nine" is as true an adage as ever was spoken. The seam of one of the legs of my trousers had a rip an inch long. I postponed attending to it for a couple of days ; and when I did, it required quite a foot of sewing. Sewing-machines are the invention of the evil one, I believe ; for if the end of a thread that has been stitched by them once gets loose, there is no knowing where it wiU stop. My African experience has taught me quite a Avrinkle -. after you wash your moleskin coat and trousers, rinse them out in a solu tion of Condy's disinfecting powder and water. It has the effect of making them a grand stalking colour, and thoroughly cleanses them of all animal matter. We broke up camp early next morning, and in two trecks reached Bhinoster river. During the greater portion of the day we kept disturbing a pretty little 152 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. bird about the size of a starling. It possesses a dark back, with lighter colouring underneath, and is a true lark. When the leading oxen would approach where it rested, it would abruptly flush, fly about thirty yards, then rise perpendicularly ten or fifteen feet, soar for a few seconds, and drop suddenly with closed wings into the velt. It had no carol like our home musician, stiU uttered a pretty, musical, and lonely note, ptweet, ptweet, ptweet. It has been described by the ornithologist Smith, and is weU known to the Boers. Some of the birds of South Africa certainly are most briUiant in plumage, particularly the bee-eater famUy, but, as a rule, they are less so than the birds of Mexico and South America. Another thing I would note, that although few of the birds in Southern America sing, many of those here do, and very sweetly; but it takes some time before the ear gets tuned to their voice. Just before sunset we arrived at our halting -place : game seemed to be very abundant about it. In fact, some coran flew over the oxen while being unyoked, so Morris and I went after them. The hour was too late, and they were so wild we could not get within gun-shot. About a hundred and fifty yards from the wagons was a pond about an acre in extent ; a dozen ducks dropped into it, so I crawled behind some bushes, and caused WiUiam to go on the reverse side and flush them, thus driving them down on me. Into them I fired both barrels and knocked down five. Those that were shot dead soon drifted ashore ; but the wounded gave WiUiam a most amusing chase, for sometimes he was up to his MORRIS BECOMES WORSE. 153 waist in water. They were the Hottentot duck pre viously described, and are an excellent addition to the larder. Morris, who will, in spite of remonstrance, keep moving about, is worse to-night. We cannot be more than seventy mUes distant from Potschefstrom, where I am informed good medical advice can be obtained — news for which I am most thankful. CHAPTEB XV. PAT M0LL0T MORRIS BROKEN DOWN. Hendrick's Splendid Shot — An Amusing Chase — Unearthing a Ratel — Search for " Fater" — A Comical but Inhospitable Old AVoman — "Is it Water ye mane ? "—A Drop of the Crathur— My Talk with Pat — ¦' A Great Day for Ireland intirely " — Mrs. Molloy — Our Dissel-boom comes to Grief — Boers "Flitting " — The Head of the Procession — Ostriches not such Fools as they Look — Ostriches on the Offensive — How to Capture Them — The Vaal River — Making a Dissel-boom — In the Transvaal at Last — Charon — A Dear Bottle of Brandy— Getting the Cattle over the River — Poonah and his Little Tricks — Morris's DisUke to him. — Potschefstrom — Imp absquatulates — A Queer Set of Physicians — Morris has to Return Home for his Health — FareweU — Alone. Hendrick possesses a very old double rifle, about sixteen-bore, although it shows the ravages of time and neglect, yet any one experienced in firearms can see at a glance that it has been once a splendid weapon. It bears the name of Purdey — no bad guarantee for a gun forty years ago. With this antiquated specimen of firearms he made a splendid shot this morning. The road, which here is' straight and running due north, has on the left three bluffs projecting into the velt at a distance of 500 yards from the track. There were some spring-buck feeding, not all together, but scat tered ; he selected the nearest, and at a range of 400 yards bowled it over dead. Coran are here also very abundant, and with little trouble a heavy bag of them could be made. The monotony of our journey was broken by a most amusing chase. The old pointer, who had struck the UNEARTHING A RATEL. 155 trail of something, commenced to give tongue ; every dog in consequence rushed to her assistance, and com menced beating the heavy grass with such care and assiduity, that it was perfectly certain to aU that some wild animal was in the vicinity. In consequence the wagons were halted, and drivers and Kaffirs alike went to discover what could be the unknown beast. After a time a hole was found, larger than an ordinary badger- earth, and the zeal of the dogs over it, and their desire to get into it, were truly absurd. However, big brutes like Bonte and Bob had no chance, but the little pointer had, so she bit the earth, scraped with her feet, and snapped at every dog that came near enough to impede her movements. WiUiam went for the pick, and having discovered the direction in which the hole led, dug down upon it. He had excavated about two feet when out he jumped, the pointer took his place, scratched for a moment, then made a grab, and holding on like grim death, partially dragged from the shelter a large black body. Next Bonte and then Bob got a grip of the unknown beast, and between them aU it was dragged up on the velt. It was a regular repetition of "pull devil, puU baker; " the plucky little pointer if anything displaying the most venom. The smell that arose around the scene of combat was most fearful, almost as bad as an American skunk's. Between blows from the whip-handles, and worrying from the dogs, the unfortunate was ultimately killed. It turned out to be a very large ratel, certainly quite, if not over, the size of a full-grown otter. The dogs of course got saturated with this dreadful liquid used as a weapon of defence, and they smelt so abominably as for days to perfume the wagons. 156 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. After our midday meal, I started forward on horseback to find out whether the ford of the Vaal river was passable, or whether it would be necessary to go lower down the stream to where there was a punt. The nature of the country was much changed; instead of the flat velt covered Avith grass, the whole surface of the country is a succession of hills, clothed with dwarf timber. In consequence of this alteration in the landscape I lost my way, and wandered some time, yet hoping to find a track leading to the river, which I was aware must be due north. At length I struck the trail of a wagon, which folloAving up brought me first to a cattle kraal, then through an orchard, and afterwards to two houses, one inhabited, the other going through the course of con struction. I went to the door of the former, and there met an old man ; I asked for vater, and he shouted to some one within, " Vater ! " with stentorian lungs. At length an aged woman came out, looked at -me, gave a grunt, and turned on her heel. My appearance, it was quite certain, did not please her. From her expression I was satisfied that I should have to go without a drink. I was about to give up the task as hopeless, when she came again to the door, took a long stare and snorted, then retired into the interior of her dweUing. She was the most comical-looking old woman I had ever seen ; her height Avas equal to her breadth, and round her face hung a fringe of diminutive white curls. For a quarter of an hour I waited, still neither she nor the water came. In the adjoining tenement I heard hammering, and an occasional snatch of " The Wearing A FRIENDLY IRISHMAN. 157 of the Green," then a pause. Soon, in a deep sonorous voice, broke out — " And I met -with Napper Tandy, And he tookfme by the hand," &c. " That's the place for my money," I inwardly thought. " There is no making a mistake what country owns the possessor of that voice." So I took the pony by the bridle and looked in through the door; there I saw a man nailing up laths quite after the orthodox plasterer fashion. " Good morning to you, Pat," said I. " Good morning to you kindly," said he. " Can I get a drink of water ? " I inquired. "Is it water you mane ? lashings and leavings about here." So he jumped off his perch in search of the liquid I required. Soon he returned vrith an ample supply. Producing my flask, I took a mild drink — his eyes were on me aU the time. " Would you like a drop ? " I asked. " Would a duck sAvim ? " was the response. So I poured out a stiff quantity and handed it to him. With a gulp he swallowed it ; then with a grin, " That's the iUigant stuff; I'm thinking you fetched it from the ould counthry." Of him I made inquiries as to my route, the most expeditious way of getting to it ; to all of which he gave me satisfactory answers. When about to take my departure, he threw doAvn his hammer and naUs, put on his coat, and exclaimed, "Begorra! that's the last nail I'll drive this blessed day ! If the negurs (meaning the Boers) are in a hurry, they had better do it thimselves." 158 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " I'm sorry I interrupted you." " Niver a bit ! I'm glad to see you ; and a mile or two more or less to show you your way wiU only be friendly." So in company we started. This was the best stage Irishman I ever saw, au naturel : he was as perfect as Dion Boucicault in Miles na Cappaleen ; even his stick and his clothes had a Donny brook Fair cut about them truly refreshing. "And how do you like this country?" I asked. " Like it, is it ? Tell me the man that knows ould Ireland would like any foreign part," thinkingly he said. " Yes, Ireland is a pretty place," said I. "And you know it, thin?"- — expressed by him very thoughtfully. " Nearly all." " And when were you there last ?" "Not for three or four years." " Do you know Dublin ?" " I do." "AndKUdare?" " Yes ; and Baletore, and Naas, and Maynooth." And at every new name I uttered his face expanded further and further, tiU he could contain himself no longer, but gave an " Hurrouch ! " and brandished his stick as if he had " got the fever on " (an expression in use in America when Irishmen want to fight). After subsiding a little, he gravely remarked, " This is a great day for Ireland intirely ! " I did not deny the fact, although I could scarcely see how the " gem of the sea " was to be affected by the present casual meeting. MRS. PATRICK MOLLOY. 159 To change the conversation, I inquired, "Are you married ?" " Married is it ? " "Yes." . " WeU, thin, I am. Mrs. Molloy is what they calls a fine female ; if size makes fineness, thin she is. Be- gorra ! I wish I had her in Dublin to show at a pinny a head !" " Is she as big as the mistress down below?" " As big as that 6uld omadawn ! May I never tell a lie, she'd make two of her !" " You should be very happy." " Maybe I am, maybe I'm not ; but if I had to begin agin I'd sooner have the little finger of Nancy Murphy than aU the Dutch frows in Africa. It's not joking I am — sorra a word of joke I'm saying." On Pat led me the matter of two miles, walking at such a pace as to keep the pony in a trot. In front of a large farmhouse he stopped, telling me to remain where I was and he would go in and make inquiries. He did so, and soon returned with the information that the ford was impassable, and that the wagons must go to the ferry. Just then the wagons came up, and, right or wrong, Pat must stand me a drink, and " the other jintlemen," meaning the drivers. So he stood it, and they stood it, tiU time was up, and the wagons must go forward, for several miles were yet to be passed before the outspanning-place was reached. The last I saw of Pat was going towards his home — his step was light and springy; and the last I heard of him was something or other always terminating with — "And my name is Pat Molloy !" 160 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " It was a great day for Ireland intirely ! " he re peated to Hendrick and Bater and WiUiam three or four times at least ; and those worthies thought that if a country was to be affected by my conduct, I was cer tainly a big man and deserving of great respect. There was a marked change in their manner towards me from that day. A short treck over a very bad road brought us at length close to the Vaal river, when WiUiam, making a short turn and attempting to take the wagon over a grip caused by sun-cracks, broke the dissel-boom about a foot -from where it enters the eye. I was present when the accident happened, and it was the result of utter carelessness. So, as might be expected, I did not bless him; no, on the reverse, I pitched into him most sharply. I was able to do this now, for if the worst had come to the worst, I could have myself driven to Potschefstrom, for I had not hved the last month for nothing. Again, it was too near pay-day for him to take serious notice of what I said. A splice, therefore, had to be constructed to get us to the margin of the river, stiU some mUes off ; and as this is ever a tedious operation, we were engaged on it upwards of two hours. While thus employed, several famUies of trecking Boers passed us, their vrives, famUies, stock, and lares and penates being all with them. They were a rough and dirty -looking lot, still weU-gro-wn, not bad-looking, people. The women wear a greased white cloth tied close over their faces, covering aU from the eyes to the end of the chin. This is supposed to be a pro tection to their complexions, and gives a very strong reminder to the observer of Turkish women in their ABOUT OSTRICHES. 161 zarmack at Constantinople. Mixed among their flocks and herds were a great number of tame ostriches, both young and old. This addition had a very quaint and unusual effect — something, truly, that European eyes are quite unacquainted vrith, whether in reality or picture. These strange birds generally stalked at the head of the procession, and appeared to be on most exceUent terms Avith all the domestic animals. Occasionally one would deviate to the right or left of the track to peck a mouthful of grass, but as soon as the driver would leave the road and shout at it, it would immediately fall into its proper place and march forward with the utmost demure gravity, as if to be guilty of an infringement of rules was the last thing it would think of. Ostriches always have an intensely stupid look, but they are not nearly such fools as the uninitiated would take them for ; and although the most timid creatures on the earth when in a state of nature, in captivity or when domesticated they are hold and dangerous, more espe cially the males. Horse or rider indiscriminately they will attack, walking up to the object of their indigna tion with a quiet, measured stride, never evincing for a moment the slightest evidence of hostility — in fact, looking such fools that no one would imagine them capable of inimical ideas — when Avith a quick movement, done with great strength and velocity, they raise their foot and strike forward, the edges of the toes being so sharp that they will cut your clothes the whole length of the stroke. As they are too valuable to be knocked on the head, perhaps you turn to run from them, but their speed is such that an attempt thus to elude them is useless. The only plan then to be pursued is to throAv yourself down, and lie stiU on your face or back. They L 162 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. cannot kick you in these positions, but they will jump on you and trample all over you. While this operation is going on you may give vent to your feelings and satisfy your self-esteem by besto-wing upon them a few reminders that two can play the same game. By the time the Boers had passed we were again ready for the road — that is, Avith care and judicious driving we might reach the river without further casualties. We made the effort, and succeeded. On the Vaal river we found ten or twelve wagons out- spanned, the owners of which showed anything but friendly feehng towards us. The Vaal river here is about the vridth of the Thames at Hampton Court, very sluggish, vrith rock and clay margin. The reach where the ferry was extended mUes doAvnwards and about two hundred yards upwards ; here it was entered by a grand rapid. The banks were clothed with trees, principally mimosas, while on the opposite shore were two houses, one belonging to the former ferryman, the other to his successor. Before we could do anything a new dissel-boom had to be made, so I sent William into the woods to procure a suitable stick. After a long delay he returned vrith one, and here his labours ceased, for he had no more idea of hewing it down or fitting it than the man in the moon. I appealed to Hendrick and Pater, but to no purpose ; , they knew no more than WiUiam, so there was nothing for it but to do it myself. I certainly did not like the job, for a dissel-boom is a weighty thing to handle, and all Cape woods suitable for such a purpose are very heavy, and, worse than all, the sun was burning hot, and no shelter was to be obtained to work under. At this juncture I could not expect assistance from "HARD WORKS NOT EASY." 163 even Morris, for he was now dangerously iU — regularly laid up. In the morning I had cauterised his throat ; for some time after it appeared as if the operation had given him relief, but in an hour or two he relapsed to his distressed state. Without a dissel-boom we could not proceed, Avith one we might be in Potschefstrom by this time next day, so there was nothing for it but to go to work ; so, stripping — that is, retaining only my trousers, shirt, and slippers — the tool chest was hauled from its place, and I commenced my labours. First the tree had to be hevm down to the proper size, then the end fitted to the eye, the iron mounting removed from the old dissel-boom and let in and bolted on the new. By six o'clock the job was finished, and never before had my American experience with the axe stood me such good service. But it was fearfuUy warm work and no Hght exercise, so that I was bathed in a bath of perspiration ; what I dreaded most was the effects of the sun — coup de soleil, or some other of - those Uls attributed to its power ; fortunately I suffered from none of them. Soon after six the embarkation commenced, our wagon, as usual, first ; in ten minutes after it was placed on board the punt the ferryman's cattle drew it ashore on the soU of the Transvaal ; when we halted on reaching the summit of the bank I could have given a cheer, vrith three times three, for we had now crossed Natal, the Orange Free State, and had entered the ultima Thule of Christendom, had there not been my friend lying in the wagon ill, very ill. Throughout life bitter and sweet go together ; sometimes the one predominates, sometimes the other, but separate them you cannot; there is neither perfect happiness nor perfect misery — l2 164 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. at least, I have never knoAvn the last — for always there is a ray of light left, possibly only a feeble shred, such as we see in the west long after the sun has set. The ferryman would have a bottle of brandy ; I was equally resolved he should not, for our supply was limited, and it was determined to keep it solely for medicinal purposes. As we owed this man two pounds, when we came to settle the bill a bottle of brandy in part payment was asked — he Avould aUow ten shUlings for it. " No, I Avould not part vrith any." But when he would deduct a pound if I would comply Avith his wishes, and he pathetically added that his wife was very sick, I gave in. The last part of his entreaty did the business, and Henessey's three star French was transferred to this Boer Charon, Avho, by the way, was a very mil fellow, and spoke a good deal of English. But although the wagon was over, the worst part of the job had still to be done — to get the cattle across ; and to save expense they were to swim. Consequently, round the whole bunch of bullocks a cordon of Kaffirs and Boers crowded, and by degrees they were forced nearer and nearer the water; but in our team was one perverse ox, Poonah by name, who the moment you had him, as you thought, safe, would charge through the line and go scampering over the country, with all the naked Kaffirs in pursuit, and a pretty dance he would lead them, till both he and they were perfectly exhausted, when he Avould return in the most submissive way, join the other cattle, and ask sympathy from them, as if he were the most abused beast in the world, and his comrades were certain to give it. I think four times that evening Master Poonah successfully practised this game, and as he figures much POONAHS PRANKS. 165 in the after narrative I will describe his personal appearance. His head would have done justice to any prize bull, the horns hung down ; in colour he was black, -with a compact, powerful body, standing on short legs ; so now yon have the darling's photo ; I always liked him ; his very roguishness and trickery made me laugh often, and it is a pleasant thing sometimes to laugh — dulce est desipere in loco. He was a wise beast too, very wUling when once in the yoke. Even when pulling his best, if I happened to be on the box of the wagon, and shouted his name, " Ay, Poonah, treck Poonah ! " he would begin to trot like a horse. He was always hungry and always fat, and ever ready to be ringleader in mischief. The other oxen were very fond of him ; he would rush into their ranks when yoked or bunched, and no hostUe horn would be turned against him. But Poonah had an enemy ; it was Morris. " There goes that brute Poonah again ! " when shouts would indicate that a chevy was taking place, and right he was almost certain to be. Again, he would say, " I hope to goodness a lion will jump that beast when we get up country." To this I could not agree, WeU, my friend had been tempted from the interior of the tent to have a cup of cocoa after our first halt. Umganey had brought his stool and placed it for him against the dissel-boom, and cup in hand he was waiting for the liquid to cool — I wish the reader could tell me what keeps its heat so long as cocoa — when Poonah, who had broken away from his comrades, sought to make the wagon a dodging-place to avoid the per severing Kaffirs — it was a common trick of his, to play hide-and-seek round the wagon. However, the 166 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. pursuers discovered his whereabouts, made a dash after him, but not to be beaten, he turned round the front of the wagon, cleared the dissel-boom in splendid style, but, alas ! sent aU my friend's cocoa, which he had been taking so much trouble to cool, flying to the winds. " Blast Boonah ! " was all he said. The language was strong, but under the circumstances justifiable. I did not laugh, poor Morris was too ill ; but if it had occurred to any one else, even to myself, I think I should have, as Artemus Ward expresses it, "snickered over it." Before break of day the cattle were again in the yoke. Before us lay a range of stony hills, possibly eight or nine hundred feet above the plain, which were sparsely covered with bushes. Through them was a pass ; once over it we should see the long- looked-for Potschefstrom. Although the road was good, and the ascent gradual, the cattle seemed to lag on the way. At length the sun rose — a glorious birth he had that morning, for there was not a cloud to detract from his splendid brilliancy. The pass is reached, on slowly we progress through it, and suddenly, at a turn of the road, bursts on us a mag nificent extensive plain, margined with hills, in its centre a small white town, almost smothered with greenest poplar trees, blue gums, and wUlows. It is Potschefstrom ! But although Potschefstrom is only about seven miles off as the crow flies, yet the road of necessity becoming tortuous from ravines, and one very bad water-course, the Mooi river, we have to traverse quite ten miles before reaching the outspanning-ground, a mile to the westward of the to-wn. From the name of the river on which it stands, and which forms two WHAT BOERS CONSIDER A GOOD JOKE. 167 sides of a square, Potschefstrom is frequently called, especiaUy by the Dutch, Mooi-river-dorp ; in fact, when you get up country you will hear it spoken of among the inhabitants by no other appeUation. Our arrival here has done Morris a little good. I believe the interminable plains we have been passing over for the last twenty days depressed his spirits, and vrith a sick body it is very hard to resist it. Persons on coming into this part of the country invariably suffer severely from some ailment or other. The water is accredited as the cause ; in my opinion it may assist, but elevation, and consequently unaccustomed rarefica- tion of atmosphere, has more to do vrith the indisposition than is generaUy believed. Pasture aU round the camping-ground there is an abundance of, stiU it is not safe to let your buUock graze alone, without the forelopers being in attendance, for there are such things as mealy fields, and nothing delights a Boer more than sending cattle to the pound, particularly if they belong to a traveUing Englishman. They are asserted to have a penchant for sending their neighbour's cattle also ; who could then expect that a stranger's would be safe ? In Umganey I have long been aware that I possess a most valuable servant ; his work he conscientiously performs, seeking neither to thrust his doings under your eyes nor to make market out of them. For performing his duty I do not applaud him — he is but doing his duty, and for that he is paid; but as a good and faithful servant, often taking work out of my hands, I give or send him a piece of tobacco, for which he is very thankful. I have forgotten to state that Imp, the little scamp Imp, who was in charge of the culinary department, 168 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. bolted when within a few days of here. I rode hack many miles in search of him, but was unsuccessful. The vicinity of the Diamond-fields was too great a temptation for his principles, and he gave us the slip, for there wages were at sensation prices. He was not much loss, for he was an eye-serving scamp, and a httle pilferer to boot. Thus we have arrived in Potschefstrom vrith a driver, the man engaged at Eland river, Jim and Umganey. Among our cattle and other animals, I am thankful to say, we have suffered no loss. On the morrow, at an early hour, Morris and self went into the town to find out the leading physician ; they all, three in number, occupied this position, so we inter viewed them in succession. After this, my friend preferred placing himself in my hands as to treatment and advice; I wished to persuade him otherwise, but he would not listen to the arguments I could use to the contrary. Certainly I must say that the doctors of Potschefstrom were a rough-looking lot, and by choice I should much sooner have trusted a cow in their hands than myself; in saying this it must be remembered that a change for the better may have taken place since I was there. After our visit to the town we had a consultation, and I emphatically insisted that the sooner he went home the better. To this there was much opposition, but ultimately I carried the day. That evening Morris left me by the maU cart for the Diamond-fields, a journey of over 400 miles ; there there was communication with Port Elizabeth twice a week by Cobb and Co.'s coaches. So, with luck, he might reach the coast in twelve days, or possibly be back in England in little over six weeks. MORRIS RETURNS HOME. 169 Poor Morris ! I had a great job to get him off ; he fought against going — against returning before he had shot elephants, lions, and such-like ; but his life was at stake if he persevered further, so I was resolved, as far as in me lay, to prevent his making so rash a venture. I succeeded, but it was not without a severe struggle. Well, I saw him off, and rode with the coach a mile or two ; at length I approached the window at which he sat, took his right hand in my left, gave it a long squeeze, murmured a " God bless you ! " and I was alone. Yes ; and I grat, as they say in Scotland, for I had learned to love him for himself, and to know him as a true, kind, noble-hearted man. I was alone now; no friend to help me, none to advise me, none to counsel me; in future I was to fight the battle single-handed. CHAPTEB XVI. FRIENDS IN NEED. A Lazy Driver — Reminiscences of HoUy — Suspicions of Underhand Conduct — Crossing a River — At Klerksdorp — My Novel-reading Servant Bolts— Kind Friends — Half a Day's Shooting — Two Hyaenas done for — A Driver is Lent to me — The Boers at Klerksdorp— The Brothers Rous — Immense Foolishness of the English — Mr. Rous on Nile Explorations — Superstitions of the Boer — A Witch caUed in — The Prettiest ViUage in South Africa- Abundance of Fruit — WeU-conditioned Porkers — A Look Round — Fruit not to had for Love or Money — A Good-looking Woman — Irritating in- hospitaUty — A Present of Fruit — A Return Gift of Sweets — " Jim a good Boy" — Jim Decamps — The other Boys assert their Innocence — Deserted by all my Attendants save one — My Lecture to Umganey — A Lady Visitor — I decline to pursue Jim. What I thought, or what I did not think, in my lone liness is not to the purpose. I went to work : unloaded the wagon, and sent it round to the blacksmith's shop for repairs ; also turned out every case to learn the better what could be dispensed with, and so lighten the load, for it was necessary that I should have as few impedi menta as possible. For two days I toUed without ceasing, and on the third was ready for commencing the journey. A firm of merchants advised me to engage some one speaking English who was conversant vrith the country north, as without a companion I should certainly go melancholy mad. Not wishing to go melancholy mad, I engaged a man they recommended. This fellow, who was to drive, to look after the cattle, to provide game when necessary, did absolutely nothing but lie on his back in the wagon, smoke, and read novels. UN GENTLEMANLY GENTLEMEN. 171 But before we go further, let me revert to a dinner given me by the members of the most clannish race on the earth. In happening to speak of Holly, one of the guests said, " I remember him weU." Entering into a description of his person, my acquaintance continued — " He and a number of his companions who were engaged in the Basuto war came up here ; as they had been fighting in our cause, it was decided among the worthy burghers that they should be entertained at a dinner, and the finest public dinner that had ever been furnished in Potschefstrom was provided in their honour. But what do you think they did? After all had become seated at the table, each of the guests seized a roast duck and belaboured his neighbour Avith it. Disgraceful, sir, most disgraceful ! In fact, I think that at my office I can find a report of the matter, in which they are characterised as the most ungentlemanly gentlemen that ever visited Potschefstrom — a severe stricture cer tainly, but deserved, as you wUl yourself admit." From what I knew of the hero of the " Bed, White, and Blue," I quite believed that he was one of the "most ungentlemanly gentlemen that ever visited Potschef strom." The canny Scot is a vrily bird, not to be caught with chaff, but the kindest-hearted being in the world if you know how to take him. Klerksdorp was not on my route, but I wished to go there, as two gentlemen of that nationality had made it their home, so we turned off to the left, and, although only distant from Potschef strom thirty miles, it took me four days to reach it. This delay was caused by the man I had hired to go up country with me. I am still under the impression that he was employed by the person who recommended him 172 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. (scoundrel, I should say) to do all he could to thwart my getting on, and compel me to sell out and return. From information I afterwards received this impression is confirmed, and I will say that the plot was so weU organised that the difficulties, annoyances, and con stantly recurring standstiUs were enough to make any man grow sick at heart. Before reaching Klerksdorp I had to pay sum after sum for getting pulled out of spruits, holes, &c. &c, and the worthy I had hired was never with me to assist. It soon appeared that it was but to get into a hole for him to absent himself. That he knew nothing about wagon-driving, and that he was a foul-mouthed bully, I discovered before he and I were together an hour. The name of the recommender and his protege can be learned from me by any one who desires to travel in Africa, and wishes to avoid scoundrels. However, although alone, I was not to be daunted. About ten o'clock one morning we approached Klerks dorp. Between us and it was a deep rapid river, with very rough bottom. Before entering this stream I halted the team to give the cattle breathing-time, and also have an inspection of the ford. But where was the person who should have taken all this labour off my shoulders ? Where ? lying on my bed reading a novel ! Without his assistance, however, I hoped to get through. The cattle approached the water, and, just before entering it, I called a second halt, for I had only Jim for a driver, and Umganey to forelope ; for this new man, who was to make all my ways easy, and aU my paths peace, had frightened off the wagoner who had come with me all the way from the Eland river. At length the word was given, in went the cattle, Umganey MY NOVEL-READING DRIVER ABSCONDS. 173 hauled at the heads of the leaders, and Jim. cracked his whip nigh the flank of the after-beasts ; for a moment there was a slacking of the pace, sufficient to cause me to think that the team were coming to a standstiU, so I rushed, waist deep, into the stream, armed with a spare whip, and plied it on the refractory. All the oxen now puUed, and pulled together, so at length the wagon reached the opposite brow, and we were safe from what might have been a grave misfortune. Down the middle of the village I passed, and outspanned near the store of Messrs. Taylor and Leask, my countrymen, " Nursing my -wrath to keep it -warm." I kept my pent-up fury to myself ; so, when my new employe came to me, and congratulated me on my driving, I did not refer to his delinquency, and pre tended to take all that he said as a well-earned compli ment. In a day or two after I wished to unpack, and alter the load into a more convenient form. Of my intention I informed him the previous night ; but my wishes were not of the slightest importance, so I had to do aU the packing and unpacking alone, for my servant — forsooth ! preferred to go fishing. I knew a row was at hand, and when the storm did come I was aware it would be severe, for flesh and blood can only bear a certain strain without resisting. However, I ,was saved from such an indulgence of my temper, for the object of my indignation came to me and stated that he desired to go to Potschefstrom to see his wife : borrowed clothes, waterproofs, and blankets ; and although he had received an advance of fifteen pounds, never returned. Better, possibly, that it was so ; for if he had remained, and continued 174 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. to manifest indifference to my success, I should most certainly have taken the law in my hands. Messrs. Taylor and Leask were most kind. I had an invitation to take all my meals at the latter's table, and took advantage of it, and for a short period enjoyed the comforts of a home : very pleasant after aU the hardships I had suffered. But I am certain the reader has been treated to a sufficiency of disagreeables, so I wiU change the subject. I was stUl without a driver, and it was absolutely necessary to procure one before going farther. My new friends sent far and wide to procure one, but until they succeeded, I went in for shooting, to pass the time. Mr. Taylor was an exceUent sportsman, and a good shot; so I vrill give the outline of half a day's performance. In his company I started after dinner to ride to a neighbouring wooded ridge. We each took a boy to look after the horses. A pointer of my friend's, and Bonte and Bob, accompanied us. The distance we had to go before commencing our sport was about three mUes. Scarcely had we commenced work when sundry partridges and coran were killed ; then a diker doe and faAvn were bagged, Bonte having a splendid course after the former before he pinned it. The strip of wood that we were shooting was not over one hundred yards wide, and a mUe and a half in length ; and during the whole distance we foUowed it, game of some description was flushing in our front. When near the end of the beat, my companion signalled me. I joined him, and without asking questions foUowed him up a slope on the velt. Approaching its top we both went on our hands and knees tUl the summit was reached, when, looking over, before us, HALF A DAYS SPORT. 175 -within about eighty or ninety yards, were several hundred spring -buck. My friend had changed his shot gun for a rifle ; I stUl retained my former weapon, useless on such large game at so long a range, as it was loaded Avith shot. WeU, he covered first one, then another, and ulti mately a third, but his Winchester refused to explode ; by this time the spring-bucks had become alarmed, and scampered off, and the two greyhounds had a grand run after them, although from beginning to end of the chase it was evident to any one that they were outpaced at every stride. This did not matter, because we had kUled more meat than we could consume ; and whether or no, both beef and mutton were to be purchased at Klerksdorp. From where our late shooting had been performed, we galloped over a ridge of high land, and found our selves on the margin of another wood. This we shot over, and very much added to our bag, so much so that both the Kaffirs were loaded with birds, while the diker bucks were hung across the horses' backs, tied in their place by D's attached to- the cantles of our saddles. A third cover was next to be shot, but to get there we had to cross an open velt about two mUes broad ; in doing so, up jumped a wolf (striped hyaena), and both the greyhounds dashed off in pursuit. On closing vrith the quarry Bob feU as usual, but he was on his legs a moment afterwards : this accident gave old Bonte the advantage, who seized his prey by the flank, and both pursuer and pursued rolled over in the dust together, Bob in the meantime coming to his companion's assist ance, when conjointly they soon worried every particle of 176 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. life out of the luckless brute. In the meantime Taylor galloped another hyaena to a standstill and shot it. By sunset we were home, each ornamented with a brush, a bag of game that required two Kaffirs to carry, and a buck behind our saddles. Such was the result of half a day's shooting in the immediate vicinity of Klerksdorp. As no driver could be procured for love or money, Mr. Leask most considerately lent me his own private man Jacob. He was to take me as far as Zeerust in Marico, and there assist me to find a suitable person to take his place. But before leaving Klerksdorp I would say a few words upon the Boers I met there. To Scotchmen they are partial; on Englishmen they look with eyes of suspicion. Want of education and ignorance of the world are the cause of this, fostered by stories circulated by deserters from the British army. At Klerksdorp there were two brothers residing, who had amassed considerable fortunes by taking oranges, peaches, apples, poultry, &c. &c, to the Diamond-fields. Their status in life had always been such as to justify any person imagining that they would not be quite as ignorant as their fellows. An anecdote about them, true I can vouch for, and most absurd, I do not hesitate to narrate. One of these brothers was enlarging upon the immense foolishness of these Englanders. They are spending no end of money to find out the source of the Nile, and actually send people into Africa south of the equator to discover its source. " Well, is not the world round?" Taking an orange to illustrate the matter, and drawing a line round the centre of SUPERSTITION AMONG THE BOERS. 177 it, " Here is the equator. You see AAdiere the equator is, don't you? WeU, the fools expect to find that the NUe rises on this side of it ; but how on earth can men with common sense believe that water will run uphill ? WeU, these Englanders are the greatest fools ; what say you ? " And all agreed with him. The Boers are also very superstitious, and believe sincerely in witch-doctors, sorcerers, et hoc genus omne. What I am going to teU wiU scarcely be credited, but stUl it is true. Carl Bous's brother got sick — very ill indeed, the fact being that he was so miserly that he denied himself the necessaries of life. He sent for me to come and see him, which I did in the company of Mr. Leask. I saAv at once that the man was absolutely starving himseK, and my companion agreed in my views. In consequence I ordered him chicken broth, AAdne, &c. &c. But no, he would not be so extravagant, he was a poor man ; and aU other excuses such as men like he would make were urged by this rich Boer. Getting weaker, he caUed in an old hag of a Kaffir woman, who was supposed to possess supernatural power. After feeling his arms and legs, looking in his eyes, casting the bones, and going through a variety of absurdities, she gave him a prescription, which of course did the wretched man no earthly good. About ten on a Monday morning I left Klerksdorp. Jacob, Mr. Leask's driver, wielded the whip, Umganey foreloped, and Jim foUowed in rear leading the horse. To simplify matters, and as much as possible to remove chances of obstacles, I had purchased six new seasoned oxen, in good working condition. Thus M 178 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. reinforced, and under the experienced whip of the present driver, we got over the road rapidly. Spring-buck, bless-buck, and wUdebeest were abun dant, and so tame that often they stood and gazed at us within one hundred and fifty yards of the wagon. As I had plenty of meat — Mr. Leask having at the last moment kindly presented me with a fat sheep — I left these graceful and beautiful specimens of the wild game of South Africa for the rifle of those who required their flesh more than I did. Outspanning in the heat of the day for two hours, again the cattle were put to, and so well did my team now work that by six o'clock we were entering the suburbs of Hartebeestfontein, by long odds the pret tiest vUlage, or rather hamlet — for it does not possess over half a dozen dweUings — that I had seen in South Africa. Let me try and describe it. On one side of the track, and about equaUy distant from it, is a row of large, white, one-storeyed houses, with vegetable -gardens in front. On the other side of the road is a never-failing stream of water, across which are orchards covering a hundred or more acres. The trees were groaning under their loads of ripe fruit, oranges, apples, plums, peaches, pears, and walnuts all being mixed together and attempt ing to rival each other in the quantity of their produce. At the end of the vUlage was a green, and in its "ti green, centre a very large pond, beautifully sheltered with weeping willows, covered with ducks and geese. Every body and everything looked prosperous : fat cattle and horses rested under the shadows of the trees ; pigs that had never known sorrow — if rotundity of figure is a proof of this — snorted, frisked, and grubbed about in FRUIT IN PLENTY, BUT NOT FOR ME. 179 every direction, while domestic fowls appeared to be innumerable. Taking Jacob with me, I strolled through the village. He spoke Dutch well, English fairly. Our first effort was to find a shop ; we discovered two, but both were shut up — at least, no amount of hammering brought either owner or employe. This was unfortunate, as several things were wanted. However, they might be open in the morning. In the meantime we would go and buy some fruit. Crossing the green, we found two ox-wagons loaded with it. I told Jacob to get a bushel or so, and make the best bargain he could. It was no use ; all his efforts were unavailing : they would not part Avith any. I told Jacob to make a higher offer. No ; they did not wish to seU, and to give away they were' not inclined. And during all this time dozens of oranges and apples were rolling off on to the ground, and being greedily de voured by the pigs. It was very trying, but what was to be done ? We left these inhospitable people, and walked towards the wagon. Near the corner of the road was a splendid orchard. I looked over the fence, and there was a really good-looking white woman sitting on a plank over the stream, bathing her feet in the water. She might have been about thirty, and certainly belonged to the better class. Jacob spoke to her — requested her to sell us fruit — -stated how urgently we required it, &c. &c. She dangled her feet in the stream, never altered her position, but refused to seU what we wanted. This perverseness made me feel quite cross, so I went my way anything but rejoicing. By the roadside m 2 " 180 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. grew a quantity of prickly pears ; as I could have no other fruit, and it is almost a necessary of life to me, for want of better, Jacob and I commenced to gather them. I was enjoying my supper about sunset, Umganey was waiting on me, and Jacob was polishing out the pot — the driver's perquisite — -when two very pretty chUdren, respectively about twelve and ten years of age, came up to the encampment, bearing between them a heavy and large basket. It was filled to overflow with fruit, the top layer consisting of enormous bunches of dehcious grapes. The oldest child spoke in Dutch. Jacob stood by to interpret. " These are for the Englander — not for money." "But ask the child who sent them," said I to Jacob — which question resulted in my discovering that the good-looking woman whom I had seen bathing her feet was the donor. I happened to have some bottles of candies, acidu lated drops, &c, in the wagon-box, laid in for exactly such occasions, so I gave my charming young visitors a liberal supply, and the happy httle creatures went off home perfectly delighted with their present; for the Boers are wonderfully fond of sweets, and they are so expensive, on account of the distance they have to be carried, that they are beyond the means of very few. The lads and myself enjoyed very much the welcome gift ; and as they had had a hard day of it — for from Klerksdorp to Hartebeestfontein is a long day's journey — I made up my mind to be liberal, and give each a glass of grog when Jacob got his ration issued. As usual on such occasions, Master Jim kept us all in good JIM CONSPICUOUSLY ABSENT. 181 nature by the amusing antics that he performed. Besides, he was a really good-looking fellow, and nothing seemed to damp his animal spirits, which caused him to become most popular among his companions. My appreciation of him was marked by my having advanced him to the post of assistant-driver, with the prospect of becoming chief. His wages also had been doubled. After I had seen that good fires were lighted, and everything snug for the night, I turned into the wagon, and went to bed. Till I feU asleep, I heard Jacob, Umganey, and Jim carrying on a most animated dis cussion, which several times terminated with, " Jim a good boy ! Jim a good boy ! " If I had thought at the moment that my affection had been misplaced, that this scoundrel was harbouring guile, I would have been out of bed in an instant, and reproached him with his duplicity ; but such a thought never entered my brain. I went to sleep, confident of the affection of my fol lowers. Next morning, in mustering my people, Jim was absent. At first I thought he had wandered off into the village, so took no notice of the matter ; but when it became ' time for the cattle to be put in the yoke, and he did not make his appearance, I became sus picious. At length Jacob informed me that he thought Jim had run away, for all his clothes were gone. Even then I could not believe it to be true, for I had always treated him with kindness and consideration-; and were not his last words ringing in my ears — " Jim a good boy ! Jim a good boy?" But as the day waxed older there ceased to be any 182 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. doubt that I had been given the slip, and thus lost the last of my Pieter-Maritzburg secants. I could not help thinking that Jacob and Umganey had connived at the scoundrel's departure, so I consti tuted myself into a court of inquiry, and cross-questioned them on the subject; for I considered that if they had knoAvn the runaway's intentions, they owed me a duty, as faithful employes, to inform me of the matter. Jacob earnestly denied any knowledge of the affair, and said that he and Umganey had left Jim by the fire when they had gone under the wagon to sleep, and that he had not seen him afterwards. Jacob, acting as in terpreter to Umganey, reiterated this statement, so I was bound to believe that they spoke the truth. At least half a dozen servants now had thus left me, and in the most unexpected manner, so who could I rely on? Umganey was the only one left who had come from Natal, and why should I trust him more than the others ? To all I had behaved equaUy kindly, yet without a word of warning — when, too, their ser vices were so necessary to me — they had stolen away. Jacob being only lent me, I now possessed but one attendant, and at any moment I might be without him. Thinking thus, I made a speech to Umganey through Jacob : I told him that if he did not like me, if he was tired of his work, if he had a desire to leave, he had better teU me,- and do so openly. To this Umganey protested, vowing he would go vrith me anywhere and everywhere. I could not help feeling doubtful of the truth and sincerity of what he said, reminding him that Master Jim had spoken in the same strain. With a quiet earnestness that was so forcible as to astonish me, Umganey simply said, " Jim Kaffir, not CONSEQUENCES OF BEING. A GOOD BOY. 183 Zulu." And, as the lad spoke, his good-natured coun tenance became quite sad. Soon after I had a visit from the lady who sent the fruit, accompanied by her two handsome children. Jacob informed her of the desertion of Jim ; she im mediately counselled my seeing the Field-cornet, whom she would send one of the children for. This official soon put in an appearance ; knew that Jim had passed through the village in the morning, and had taken the Diamond-fields road, and was no doubt travelling with some wagons that had passed en route to Griqua Land West. He would have him back by this time to-morrow, have him weU flogged, &c, all for seven doUars, the money to be paid in advance. At first I felt inclined to listen to this proposal. I thought with what pleasure I should take the scoundrel by the ear, and remind him that Jim is a good boy ; but after consideration, a knowledge that I could not retain him against his wiU, and that forced service was not the kind I wanted where I was going, induced me to decline the worthy Field- cornet's proposal. Whether it was love for the doUars or zeal in his profession, this Boer functionary seemed disgusted at my non-acceptance of his assistance.From that day Umganey was promoted to the rank of my own personal attendant and cook, also placed in charge of the stores — even of the tobacco. While both Jacob and he were to be on the look-out at all the kraals we passed for a lad to forelope. Although I did not order Jim to be pursued and brought back, for a week, if not longer, I had ringing in my ears the complaisant words — "Jim a good boy! Jim a good boy ! " CHAPTEB XVII. ABOUT THE TRANSVAAL SOME NATIVE TRIBES. Hints to Those about to Emigrate to the Transvaal — The True Source of its Wealth — The Crops that can best Grow there — Difficulty of Obtaining Labour — Natives and Boers — The Macalacas — Shots on the . Road — Beltong — Tame Spring-bucks — Mrs. Leask's Pet — Tame Cranes — Their Odd Ways —Biased Judges — My Present Driver — How he Does his Work — My Personal Interest in the Cattle — Wisdom of Oxen — WUdebeest — The Prey, of the Martini-Henry — Ant-hiUs — The Dogs on the qui vive — A Cobra di CapeUo — It Escapes. Our next halting-place, about twenty miles beyond Hartebeestfontein, was a large farm in the centre of an open plain, well covered with grass, and about eighty acres of mealies in the immediate vicinity of the dwell ings, which were more numerous, larger, and in better repair than usually seen on a Boer estate. There was also here an abundance of water, without which no number of acres can be of the slightest value. At the present time many people talk, and, I be lieve, think seriously, of emigrating to the Transvaal, and an agency has been appointed in London for the sale of lands. Be warned in time — do not part -with a single shilling till you have inspected your intended pur chase, and then on no account be induced to have it unless you are guaranteed that the springs or water courses upon it are unfailing. You cannot have every thing perfect, and the want of water is what militates against these upland plains. As I have said before, the Transvaal is essentially a THE TRANSVAAL REPUBLIC. 185 stock-raising country — the true source of wealth to the inhabitants are cattle ; thus a more than usually dry season may reduce the farmer of comparative opulence to the verge of beggary. By the Vaal, Marico, Notawaney, and Limpopo rivers, where water could be raised by machinery for the purpose of irrigation, splendid crops of millet, Indian corn, sugar, cotton, with nearly every variety of fruit, could be raised; tobacco also, if properly cultivated, might be made one of the staples of the country. Near the Vaal river I took the opportunity of examining a field which was in an advanced stage — the growth was very strong, and the colour denoted that the plants were in robust health ; but,, instead of being topped, so as to make the leaf large and reduce the quantity of fibre, it was permitted to grow to any height, and carry any quantity of leaves. Now, if this had been in America, in Kentucky or Virginia, not a single plant would have been permitted to bear over five or six leaves. Although- the Kaffir population is abundant, labour is very difficult to obtain in this distant part of the earth. Herding cattle, and such-like occupations, they do not object to, but tillage — in fact, manual labour of any kind — is very much opposed to their ideas of independence and manhood. Thus it is that the women about Kaffir kraals do all the cultivation of the soil. On this account, to a very great extent, may be attributed the opposition the native population offer to all attempts made by the missionaries to put a stop to polygamy, the number of a man's wives being exactly the estimate that may be formed whether he is poor or has an abundance. On our road, for we are now on the highway from 186 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the Diamond-fields to the interior, we overtook a great many aborigines of different nationahties returning to their homes. While traversing the country of the Boers these poor creatures do not feel particularly safe ; for there is a law in existence in the Transvaal, by which a native who cannot give a satisfactory account of himself may be seized, brought before the Llandroost, and fined or compelled to work, as the worthy magistrate may deem best. Thus several attached themselves to me, giving their services in return for food and protection. From this cause I obtained a fine stalwart handsome Macalaca for foreloper. . However, I soon found that he was not suited to the work; for he had purchased a gun at "the Fields," which was so dear to him that he could not lay it aside, and, believing in the old saying, " Loaded or not she's dangerous," I put him to another task, namely, that of " herd " and assistant-hunter, while a more disreputable- looking member of his tribe was installed as foreloper. This Macalaca race are a strange people. They are generally tall, well-formed, and yet they are reported to be consummate thieves, fearful cowards, and skilful Avorkers in iron. If you ask a native who happens to possess either an assegai or hoe, " Who made that ? " the answer invariably is, " Macalaca." They are now vassals of the Matabele, who ride over them with a rough-shod foot, getting from them one year the very weapons Avith which they murder them the next. Their pilfering qualities I scarcely expected to be put in operation, for they were too much in my power to run such risks; and Master Umganey, whose duties kept him always with the wagon, aware of the weakness of these heroes, never ceased to watch their movements most sedulously. TAME SPRING-BUCKS. 187 From the road, during the latter part of the treck, I shot two spring-bucks and one bless-buck, welcome additions to our larder, especially as there were so many tramps on the road, all of whom, by common consent, expect the Englishman to supply their wants. Wil lingly they come and cluster round me, and ask me for food, but a Boer they would not think of going near. The reason of this may be that at the Diamond-fields they have become famUiarised with our race, and found them generous, while their experiences of the Dutch have taught them the reverse. Then among the Boers that curse1 — slavery — exists, and naturaUy those who practise it must be viewed with anything but loving eyes by those who are the sufferers. At this farm, where we outspanned, the people ap peared a tolerably good sort ; they sent me a present of milk and green corn, both most acceptable, and I was able to purchase from them about fifty pounds of beltong (generaUy antelope flesh rubbed with salt and dried in the sun), to which I had become very partial. The beltong was brought to the wagon by an aged frow, very stout, and almost swarthy enough to be taken for a native ; but she had a kindly eye, and a happy, good- tempered expression of countenance. As attendants following her were three tame spring bucks, evidence that these graceful creatures knew her through her kindness; and however I dislike a person, hate their character, despise their meanness, if I am aware or see an evidence in them of affection to animals, I know that they are not aU bad, that there is some redeeming quality about them. Very much to my annoyance, Bonte and Bob, foUowed by the whole pack, jumped off in pursuit. I called, whistled, and 188 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. even yelled at them, but all was of no avail; the spring-bucks bounded away gloriously, and the dogs did their best to overtake them. I told Umganey to bring the horse to prevent mischief being done, but Jacob, who had been con versing Avith the old lady, assured me that there was no necessity for that : they were hunted by the dogs of every wagon that passed ; that if they took a run out on the velt now, they would find their way back at milking-time. I do not know an animal that makes a more grace ful, attractive pet than a spring-buck : they appear capable of great attachment, and are weU able to dis criminate who are their friends. Mrs. Leask of Klerks dorp had one ; it played vrith the children, bullied the dogs, and walked about the village as if conscious that it was as worthy a member of the community as any one in it, as I daresay it was. In the morning it was in the habit of crossing the river and going out on the velt to feed, where it would associate -with the wild ones, still never failed to return at night. It ate almost anything of a vegetable character, from bread to fruit, and was particularly fond of sugar. Strange dogs would occasionally chase it, but its speed was so great that it soon distanced them. Like many pets, the poor thing came to grief. It returned one day from its wanderings with a broken leg : efforts were made to set it, but all that could be done by a kind master was of no avail, and after a lingering illness it had to be destroyed. The same estimable lady had a pair of crowned cranes (called by the Boers mahems), which are equally- deserving of notice as pets. They were so tame that PET CRANES. 189 they permitted themselves to be caught, although they were in the habit of flying miles from home to feed on the velt. Although constantly in the society of wild ones, they never manifested the slightest intention of a ' desire permanently to join them. At night they used to roost on the chimneys, and if a change of weather were about to take place, inform the inhabitants of the vil lage of the circumstance by loud and discordant screams. In all disputes among the poultry, whether turkeys, geese, or fowls, they constituted themselves arbiters, and woe betide the bird that did not listen to their decision. I am of the impression that they were not always just, for if an unfortunate goose happened to be the offender, it would be pursued for a hundred yards, and weU pecked during its flight. If ordinary domestic fowls had high words which led to a battle, a mahem would simply walk between them, give first one and then another a stroke with its wing, and erecting itself look down on both belligerents with so extremely comical an expression of countenance, that the observer might weU imagine it saying, or at least thinking, " What a pair of fools you are ! " These birds were immensely popular with aU the children ; they were never rough or attempted to peck them. StUl I believe that they were not without weaknesses, one of which "was cupboard love, for the youngster that had a piece of bread and butter in variably received more attention than those who had none. For hours I have watched these birds, and they never faUed to afford me amusement, if not instruction. However, it is half-past three, and time to renew my journey, or else Marico will take me longer to reach than anticipated. My team may not be aU that I 190 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. desire, for with experience I am becoming fastidious ; still they are very much better than formerly : this may partiaUy be attributed to Jacob's driving, for he is, without doubt, the best wagoner I have yet had in my employment, and spares the whip although he does not spoU the chUdren. As he walks along by the cattle's side, or sits upon the box, he keeps up a con stant conversation with them after this way : " Swart- land, leave that grass alone ; I wUl take your bell away and put you in a centre yoke. Ah ha ! Buffle, what are you after ! " and crack goes the whip. " Poonah; naughty boy ! come, step out ; yes, that's the way, Gilbert ; Master Ackerman, you want to get the wagon in that hole! where's my jambock?" and so we pro gress, sloAvly truly, but pleasantly enough. WhUe Morris was vrith me I had paid comparatively little attention to the oxen; in truth I had no liking for them ; but now that I am alone and without companionship, I have busied myself among them, always seeing them unyoked and put into harness, if such an expression can be used, and intimate association has really taught me to love them. At first, if I went about their heels, I was certain to be kicked ; now they do not trouble themselves to molest me. Buffle and Swartland, my leaders, are two most intelligent beasts of pure Zulu lineage, possessed of beautiful limbs, small prick ears, smooth coats, and large, clear, ex pressive eyes. A piece of rusk, or a handful of mealies, does not cost much, so I often have one or other in my pocket for the well-behaved. The consequence is that if I walk in front of the team when trecking — and we are now nearly able to dispense with the foreloper — they will quicken their pace to keep up OXEN WISE BEYOND REPUTE. 191 with me. Even Poonah, ever in mischief as heretofore, and none the less frisky than formerly, will permit me to scratch his forehead and flank. Morris's almost last wish was that a lion would jump him ; that event shall not take place if I can help it. Oxen are wondrous wise beasts — very much more so than a casual observer would give them credit for ; that they can speak to one another, or, at least, have means of communicating their thoughts to each other, I have no doubt. Watch them when unyoked, and listen to the lowing that takes place, or the guttural, suppressed noises they utter, the one waiting for his companions till aU are untied, when the appointed leader takes the front and all follow after. The rogue and most unmanageable in my team is Ackerman ; in appearance he is the most docile of the docile — grave and staid as becomes his age ; but only let him get a chance to run the 'wagon into a hole and he is certain to do it, or if the herd-boy should be out of sight, and a mealy garden vrithin view, with a couple of wheezy bellows, meaning " Come along, boys," he makes off for a foray upon the tempting grain. The nature of the velt is become quite altered, for every here and there are patches of timber, mixed with bush, to the extent frequently of several acres ; also slightly elevated ridges crop up, covered vrith loose and very much decayed sandstone, whUe between the de tached blocks creepers of unknown length twine, covered with the most punishing thorns. In these little covers the stein-buck and diker-buck find a shelter, and if the wanderer had Avith him well-bred greyhounds he might enjoy splendid coursing. As numerous wildebeest grazed within easy distance, I took my Martini-Henry and endeavoured to get within 192 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. shot, but for a long time these strange animals — resem bling more a cross between the horse and the buffalo than anything else — refused to gratify me. At length I spied a bull not far from some bushes. Without attracting attention I gained the friendly shelter and carefully passed through . it. The moment I came in sight of the quarry away it bounded, kicking and prancing like a colt just turned loose, while every few steps it turned its head to the right or left to observe whether I was in pursuit. I brought my rifle to my shoulder and watched for what appeared a shadow caused by this evolution ; in a moment it showed itself, and at the same instant I pressed the trigger, when the poor beast turned over as complete a somersault as ever did rabbit or hare. The Martini- Henry is certainly a wonderful killer if held straight. Like the vulture that sees the carrion afar, so I believe the Kaffirs do ; before the game was blooded and paunched I had at least a dozen volunteers to trans port it to the wagon. Of course for such service each expects to be permitted to assist at the feast. The ant-hiUs, I notice, are commencing to change their character ; in the Free State they were little larger than exaggerated mole-hills, now they are quite a struc ture of eight or nine feet high, frequently with a con siderable-sized tree growing out of them. How long and how many of these minute insects it takes to make so large a hillock would be an interesting calculation. Coran have been very abundant all the afternoon, and so tame that Jacob nearly knocked one over with his whip. About an hour before outspanning I almost came to grief, and after a manner that would be of all others the most distasteful. It was in this way. ATTACKED BY A COBRA. 193 The dogs were running about in some tall grass and dwarf bushes. I suspected that a coran was squatted in the vicinity, and they were endeavouring to flush it. I had a few minutes before had the pony saddled, with the intention of riding forward to examine a ford that Jacob reported as very bad, and, if so, to seek out an easier place for crossing. To encourage the pack's enthu siasm in hunting, I rode into their midst. In an instant a snake reared its head up between three and four feet from the ground and struck at my foot ; but the pony, as much alarmed as myself, was so quick that he was round on his heels and out of danger in a moment. How the dogs did not get bitten I could not understand, for they stood pottering round the reptile, while every moment or two it made a dive at one or other. TiU I was nearly black in the face I shouted Feusach ! (the Kaffir for " Get out "), stiU the beasts would not come away. I next endeavoured to take sight on it off the pony's back, but my nag would not stand still, so I dismounted. But what between the rapidity of the snake's motion, and the dogs always getting in the way, I could not get a sufficiently accurate aim to use my rifle \rith certainty. I now shouted for Jacob, who rushed up with his long whip ; but the moment he dis covered what he been summoned for he bolted as if the EvU One were after him. At length, after all this bungling, the reptile escaped into a hole, from which I could get no one to assist me to dislodge it. It was, as far as I could judge, about eight feet long, as thick in the middle as the calf of a man's leg and when its ruff was expanded the neck below the head was as broad as my two hands ; in fact, it was very much the largest cobra di capeUo I had ever seen. N CHAPTEB XVIII. AN OBJECTIONABLE HOST TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. A Rough and Ready Entertainment — The Pests of the Stock-Farmer — A Sheriff in Pursuit — A Character Fond of Brandy and Snuff — Uninviting Premises — A Sunday Dinner — Dirty Habits — My Host imperturbable — Request for more Drink — A Fair Exchange — A Mongrel — Another Useless Cur — Macguire — Bitten by a Snake — Cured — Worried by the other Dogs — Two Travelling Boers — Description — A Cross-examination — Repository of Secrets — A Chance of Marriage — My Captain's Biscuits become Inhabited — Beware of Microscopical Examinations — Bee-eater — Supposed New Species — Cow and her Calf against Three Hyaanas — The Cowardly AssaUants Knocked over — Aard-wolf — A Solomon — An Offer to Barter — A Strange Fence — My Companions depart — I arrive at Jacobsdal — Commotion among the Population — A Canny Scot — My Host and his Family — I reach Zeerust — Mr. Niccoti Winkle. Next day we entered Leichtberg, a straggling village of adobe, or semi-dried brick houses. Each dweUing had an extensive garden in front of it, running doAvn to the road, and apparently bearing prolific crops of vegetables, chief among which appeared the water-melon and tomato. Passing through, we outspanned on the north side of the village, and ere the coffee was made I was joined by several of the inhabitants, among whom were an Englishman and his son. Spreading my rugs upon the ground, and producing my chairs, I made all as comfortable as I could ; and that they were satisfied Avith the entertainment, which consisted of as much" coffee and biscuit as they could drink and eat, with a petit verre de cognac after, was apparent in their bonhomie manner, so different from what I had THE SHERIFF OF MARICO. 195 experienced among the Boers before. But these people had one grievance, and that a serious one : the wolves (hysenas) were destroying their cattle wholesale ; even the night before they had killed three donkeys, and several goats and sheep. Had I any poison with me, and if so would I sell it ? they inquired. Unfortunately I had not, or I should have willingly supplied the drug for the destruction of these pests of the stock -farmer. All the people here appeared weU-to-do ; our country man acknowledged that there was no difficulty in earning a living, but he feared it would be a long time before he got rich. A smart little man on horseback came up ; his dress and bearing denoted him a person of position in the community ; he possessed a fair smattering of English, and appeared disposed to be very friendly. On inquiry he turned out to he the sheriff of the district of Marico, in pursuit of a defaulter. He expressed a great wish for me to have the saddle put on my horse and accompany him to Zeerust ; and much as I should like to have done so, if for no other reason than to gain his friendship, I was obliged to decline, as from past experience I had learned too well how fatal deserting my attendants had always proved. We trecked that evening and next morning over a most vUlanous road, and arrived about 9 a.m. (Sunday) at a capital camping-ground, in the middle of which was a large pond, and at the further end of the watei two dwellings and several out-houses. As it is the custom in the Transvaal, I sent Jacob for permission to outspan ; soon he returned vrith the request granted, accompanied by the proprietor. This man was a character if ever there was one. n 2 196 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. He was about five feet nine inches, very powerfuUy buUt, with flowing grey hair, whiskers, and beard. He thought he could speak English, but his hngo was a most absurd mixture of Dutch, Kaffir, and English. I treated him to a soupje of brandy ; this he swaUowed at a gulp, winked knowingly with one eye, and rubbed his stomach. He was going to hear the Predicant preach, but would be back at twelve o'clock, when he hoped I would dine with him, but before taking his departure would I give him another soupje ? In a weak moment I handed him the bottle and glass ; the latter he three-quarters filled with the precious fluid — precious I say, for far up country as I am now it was worth five dollars a bottle — winked with both eyes, and uttered a protracted whistle. StUl he did not go. Had I any snuff? for he had not enjoyed that luxury for six months, and his mother and his frow were fond of snuff. I gave him a couple of ounces ; wistfuUy he gazed at the box that held the remainder, but I was firm, and he retired vrith his gift, to hear the preacher. These people make great professions of rehgion, but I fear hypocrisy is not unknown among them. While my future host was absent, I took a stroll around the premises ; they were anything but clean and inviting, while the quantity of the remains of dead game that strewed the ground in the vicinity of the dwellings clearly showed on what the inhabitants sub sisted. Here was the thigh of a zebra, there the head of a wildebeest, with the remains of spring-buck, roy- buck, and bless-buck only half deprived of their flesh, scattered over all the neighbouring soil, whUe close to the pond there was a perfect cairn of bones and skulls. It is not difficult to predict the rapid extermination of A DIRTY, DISAGREEABLE DINNER. 197 the game, when in the country there exist such blood thirsty assassins. Instead of going to hear the Predicant, better far he had communed with himself in his closet, and resolved never again uselessly to destroy the beautiful chUdren of nature, a race bestowed upon us by the Creator' to be used, but not abused. In due course of time the man returned ; he came to me for another glass of brandy, and as I was going to dine with him, how could I refuse it ? At length we reached the house ; a dirty, a fearfully dirty table cloth covered a shaky nondescript thing, that did duty for a table. On it were placed several knives, altered in form, and not unlike what they might be supposed to become if hungry persons bit pieces out of them. In due course of time a dish was placed in front of where the head of the establishment was supposed to sit. We took our places, the cover was removed, and a frightful smell assailed my nostrils. Could I eat such food ? Well, I am in Africa, far beyond what is acknowledged as a civilised country, and I wiU try. I succeeded so far as to empty the plate, but this was no use ; the host, as often as I did so, fished out a new dainty with his dirty fingers, and insisted that I should accept it. This was bad enough, but the mother, a most antiquated witch, was in attend ance, acting as waitress. In her hands was a clout ; with it she wiped the plates before we sat down to our meal ; afterwards, because it was warm, she relieved herself of the perspiration on her head and neck with this rag, and ultimately coUared a dirty child, five or six years of age, and wiped its face with this table- napkin. I could endure it no more, but rushed forth into the open air, and thence to my wagon. 198 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. I can stand clean dirt as well as another : this re quires an explanation. I do not kick up a disturbance because my chop or steak has fallen in the fire, and has sundry ashes attached to it. I can stand that; but dirty dirt, such as I had just -witnessed — upon my word, I think I would sooner go without food altogether ! That all Boers are as dirty as this I do not mean to assert, but that many are is an indisputable fact. My sudden retreat from the dinner-table, any person would have thought the termination of our acquaint ance ; not so my late host. He soon appeared, and producing a bottle that could hold at least a quart and a half, asked for some brandy, of which the old lady was very fond, and for the want of which she was suffering. The impudence, the brass of the man, was beyond being amusing; but as I did not want to part bad friends vrith him, I filled his measure with Natal rum. With this prize he walked off, and I gave orders for the cattle to be put in the yoke forthwith. The boys obeyed my behest Avith alacrity, and were doing their best to hasten our departure, when the worthy Boer appeared again, gun in hand. With a happy smile on his countenance — one that the casual observer would believe to denote that he was the most hospitable man in the world, and had not an enemy living — he came up to me. Well, what do 'you think he wanted but that I should give him one of my beau tiful rifles for his antediluvian flint-lock affair ! He loved me so much that he insisted on an exchange ; it was no use arguing, I must do it. Of course I refused ; but the more I did so, the more energetic he became. At last I could stand it no longer, but made my shoe- CURIOUS SPECIMENS OF THE CANINE SPECIES. 199 maker acquainted with his tailor in such a manner as must have left the impression that my sole leather was weU tanned. At Hartebeestfontein I had a dog given me by the lady who sent me the fruit. It was a mongrel of the first water, a beast that those most skilled in the parentage and lineage of the canine race would look at with awe, and inquire with real concern of the introducer, "You do not, surely, ask me to give an opinion on the pedigree of such a brute?" I have ever held that "like dog like master." Of course, if a man buys a dog, and does not retain him long in his posses sion, or has only lately become the owner of him, this does jiot apply. But, for instance, you see that jaunty subal tern walking out of barracks -. how proudly he swings his cane ; how thoroughly he is satisfied that he is an object on which all eyes are directed ! He is a future general — a great man in the caterpillar form, that wUl devolve into a grand butterfly — in his own estimation, at least ! In each soldier's pocket the baton of a marshal is not carried in England — for Englishmen fight without such high inducements. But if that ensign had a dog, he would no more associate with the animals belonging to the rank and file, even when the meat rations were served out in the morning, than he would fly. No ; "like master, like dog:" and this lady's animal was so effeminate that the others bullied it, so it took the first chance to run away. Another inhabitant of Hartebeestfontein — for dogs seemed numerous in this locality — came to me to know if I would buy a dog. His eyes were like those of a ferret; his face appeared as if it were made of putty; whUe his nose projected in a sharp hatchet shape^-in 200 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. fact, his head looked as if he had been sat upon. With half- bleached hair, that had once been brown, and a complexion more like the colour of those saucers that actresses wash their stockings in, was this man and his dog. I weighed the matter. A useless cur I knew it must be ; still, it might bark, and it might be cunning enough to bite in the dark, and take advantage of op portunities to do injury that the more upright and just would never avaU themselves of. So I bought the brute, and called it " Macguire," after one I once knew, and whom it much resembled. Sometimes, for short ness, I called it "Baddy." That was when I was good-tempered ; if out of sorts, I always gaye the miserable red-haired brute his name in full. Never was there a greater skulker in this world, and yet the wretch makes professions to be as brave as its comrades, and would deceive any but keen observers. I have not mentioned him before, for he was scarcely worth the trouble. Yet to-day he was bitten by a snake. The limb where he was struck sweUed enormously, and I concluded that my pack of nondescripts was about to suffer a diminution; however, I applied extract of ammonia to the wound, poured two or three table- spoonfuls down his throat ; and I now know that my efforts have saved the cur's hfe. WeU, poor wretch ! his unfortunate appearance is not his fault, but all the other dogs dislike him most terribly, and never lose an opportunity of worrying him; and though one may feel sorry that such is the case, yet one cannot so thoroughly show sympathy when one observes that he attacks aU who are weaker than him self, and without the slightest scruple appropriates their food. " Give a dog a bad name," &c. &c. : so in "PAR NOBILE FRATRUM." 201 this instance, for Jacob and Umganey never fail to give him a sly kick when opportunity offers. I wish sincerely I had not become his owner, for I do not like beasts I possess to be abused ; so I must try and put a stop to the stray knocks the unfortunate receives on the slightest provocation. A few mUes along the road I was overtaken by two Boers. A greater contrast to each other in appearance than these men it would be difficult to imagine. The principal was a well-made, powerful man of about eight- and- twenty; although stout, he was not fat, and was mounted on one of the finest and best-conditioned horses I had seen in the country ; indeed, his horse-gear and his OAvn clothing were of a superior description to what the visitor usually observes in this part of the world. The companion, on the other hand, was a most filthy little wretch, with an enormous shock head of hair ; both his legs and feet were much deformed, so much so, that when dismounted he could scarcely walk. His steed was a white donkey, as miserable in appearance as himself. His filthiness he could assuredly remedy, his deformity not ; and much as I objected to the former, I could not help pitying him for the other. They drew up, and courteously saluted me, the horseman speaking English weU, the cuddyman but indifferently. As always happens with Boers, they subjected me to a severe cross-examination about my intentions, views, country, relatives, &c. In return I foUowed their example, and found them wonderfully communicative. The young man acknowledged without hesitation that he had been on a courting expedition, that he was not likely to be long single now, and that his friend accom panied him to talk to the parents while he paid his 202 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. addresses to the lady of his choice. From what I could make out, the deformed man was a person of no small importance in the community; the possessor of aU family secrets that existed in the neighbourhood ; was acquainted with all the eligible young ladies far and wide ; and could teU to a stiver how much money and how many head of cattle each would receive as dowry on the day she committed matrimony. Further, he undertook the duty of envoy in such dehcate affairs with unparalleled success ; and his services were in much request by the beaux of the country. Voluntarily he informed me that, although as a rule Boer men did not like Englishmen, Boer women did; and that he could find a wife for me, and that without much delay, if I resolved to remain in the country. In fact, he knew at that moment a young lady, very pretty, very fascinating, very rich, and (making a motion with his arms so as to infer that to clasp her round the waist would be an impossibility) so big. Expressing a doubt of the propriety of getting mar ried, he had an answer ready. There was no hurry — oh, not the least ! but when I had been in Zeerust a few days I would change my mind, particularly if I attended preaching next Sunday, where I would see the charmer. My new acquaintances seemed pleased with my company, so made no effort to leave me behind ; thus, when it got time to outspan, I asked them to accept my hospitality. This they at once consented to, and so, as I had an abundance of game, coffee, and other good things, the supper passed off most pleasantly — if I except a playful mannerism the deformed man had of placing his fingers in the soup in search of tit-bits, and then wiping them by shoving them in his mouth, from POP GOES THE WEEVIL. 203 whence they were withdrawn with a loud sonorous smack. Tobacco I had in abundance, so after each had eaten to his heart's content, my pouch was produced, and conversation became general. There is no delicacy in Boer men or women. No subject seems too gross to be tabooed their conversation, even when the different sexes are together, or strangers present; yet they are unquestionably a most virtuous people — a proof that the greatest scold in BiUingsgate may be a very dragon of propriety. When our convivial meeting broke up, they turned in under the wagon, with apparently as much satisfac tion as if they were about to occupy the most luxurious chamber. Before sunrise Umganey had prepared a capital breakfast; — roast venison, the stew of last night, with some curry-powder introduced into it, and as much coffee, rusk, and biscuit as we could consume. Touching those biscuits, they were excellent for a long time, but suddenly there has appeared a most extraordinary creature in them that I never previously beheld. It is not a weevU, but its duties in life seem to be somewhat sinular to those of that insect. The biscuits I allude to are square, their surface dotted over with httle holes, and are called captain's biscuits. In every one of these holes appears to be lodged a dark brown monster ; under a strong microscope the vermin looks like an aUigator, has four legs and a tail. These biscuits I don't eat with the same pleasure as formerly, and I'd advise you never to use a microscope to inspect your food. However scientific you are, such a course is a mistake, I assure you. 204 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. When I eat them now I soak them in my coffee as hot as it can be produced, then rapidly afterwards skim the surface — the less time lost in performing the latter operation the better, as they are apt to get boiled down, and thus act as thickening to the beverage. Leaving my new acquaintances, who propose journey ing on with the wagon, accompanied by three of the doses, I struck out on the velt and reached several coppies and ridges of rocks, aU of which were more or less covered with trees. The scenery and characteristics of the features of the country are more thoroughly, every mile we progress,' undergoing a marked change, while a distant range of hUls, eighteen hundred to two thousand feet high, shuts out the horizon to the north. In a valley formed by this ridge is Zeerust, and to the right, about ten miles distant, is Jacobsdal, both being in the province of Marico. The population of neither of these places is above fifty or sixty souls, and they are the last pretence at civUisation to be found. WhUe passing along the margin of a clear purling brook, that would have done honour to even honnie Herefordshire, I came across a new species of bee-eater (apiaster), possessed of the most gorgeous plumage. Substituting small shot for baU, I succeeded, after a great deal of trouble and stalking, in getting a shot. In Smith's "Birds of South Africa" it is not mentioned, nor have I seen it before ; even at the large Ornitho logical Museum at Cape Town it is not represented. Therefore I naturaUy conclude it to be a new species, and feel not a httle proud at .the possibility of intro ducing to science a specimen of animal life that has hitherto been unknown. The predominant colour is a SOME COWARDLY BRUTES DONE FOR. 205 deep plum-red, with very long forked taU, the bird itself being slightly larger in size than the turtle-dove. If I should hve to return, I hope it will grace some day a case of rare specimens from various other distant climes that I wot pf . Crossing a ridge of loose stone I came upon an unex pected scene, a cow battling with three hyaenas for the hfe of her calf. The little one was between her legs, and yet with the greatest adroitness she faced wherever the point of danger appeared most imminent ; but the odds were aU in favour of the assailants, and in spite of her strong maternal affection it was only a matter of time for her to be deprived of the defenceless progeny she loved so weU, unless assistance came to her aid. Springing off the back of my horse, for I was within forty yards of the combatants, I knocked over one of the marauders with each barrel, and after a short but sharp bout, Bob and Bonte had pinned the other, to whom a buUet was given as a quietus. These were all of the common striped species, formidable only to very young, or sick and worn-out-by-age animals. There is a very pretty little hyaena to be found up in these localities, called by the natives " aard-wolf," and by the colonists " strand wolf ; " it is about the size of a jackal, possesses a bright fawn-coloured coat, hand somely marked with black lines. Although so small, they do great damage to sheep and goats, and at times, assembling together to the number of a dozen, wiU not then scruple to attack an ox. This animal must not be confused Avith the aard-vark, which is an ant-eater. Be turning to the wagon at noon I found dinner pre pared, and my acquaintances of last night anxiously looking forward to my arrival as necessary before they 206 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. commenced to whet their appetites. These people are both most amusing. The elder showed his knowledge of the human character by the following observation, " If you want to court a lass, aye make the mother believe that if she were single you would prefer her to the daughter." Wise man this ! The younger of the two is brim -full of hunting anecdotes, as he has annuaUy made a trip into the elephant country since he was a lad. He has confided in me — and the other thinks it a good joke — how he has promised to give up that pursuit after he has married. A great sacrifice ; but what must he not do if his f row desire it? The owner of the white donkey here adds, " Next year, or the year after, you wUl be at it again ; your love-making will be over then, and the wife wUl be glad to get rid of you for a whUe. Yes, it's the same with the whole of you; you'U all promise anything before you're married, and do as you like after." There's some truth in this, I believe. The young elephant-hunter had taken a great fancy to one of my double eight-bore guns, and was anxious to make a trade with me ; the gun and twenty pounds for his horse, saulted and warranted a first-class hunter. I was not then sufficiently conversant vrith the merits of saulted horses, or I should have accepted the offer. The value of this nag could not have been less than one hundred pounds, and many a time afterwards I regretted letting the opportunity slip of becoming, its possessor. Next morning we trecked past a fine farm, abun dantly supplied. Avith water, and possessed of a large, quantity of land under cultivation. The homestead stood in the centre of an extensive orchard, the greater number of the fruit-trees being orange; the MY ARRIVAL AT JACOBSDAL. 207 fence around this inclosure was a tall thick hedge of quince, now covered with fine fruit. Previously I had never seen this member of the vegetable kingdom devoted to such a purpose. On the high ground in front of the house, on the unenclosed velt, pastured a large drove of splendid cattle, all as fat and sleek as the most fastidious stockholder could desire. The owner came, out to see who the traveller was ; for it is not an every-day occurrence here to have a wagon pass, so I laid hold of the chance to try and trade away some of my tired and travel-stained beasts for fresh ones ; but the boot he asked was so preposterous that I could only laugh at the man's impudence or his appreciation of my sanity. My new friends here left me. The Knight of La Mancha and his attendant they looked like, as they rode off to the eastward over the undulating velt. Mounting the Basuto pony, I rode on, ordering the driver, Jacob, to make the best of his way to Zeerust. The road was very pretty, passing between the spurs of two hiUs, weU wooded, and the valley abundantly supplied with water. Soon I passed two more farms, adjoining each other, and much superior in every respect to the last I have described. The treck now turned to the east ; in the distance, under some high hills, Zeerust could be seen, about ten miles off, while Jacobsdal was close at hand — a straggling village of twenty or more houses on each side of tire road, along the edge of which a stream flowed, while large orchards were conspicuous for half a mile deep on the left side of its bank. The appearance of the solitary horseman in their midst made quite a commotion — women rushed to doors and windows, children out into the street to see the 208 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. unlooked-for apparition. I sought what appeared the most respectable store for my dismounting-place ; but, before I had removed my off foot from the stirrup, I was made captive by a true specimen of the race north of the Tweed, who would listen to no argument or excuse, but insisted that I should become his guest. At dinner aU the delicacies the "gudeman" had in his shop were produced, among which were Avine from Con- stantia, Boer brandy, ten years of age, from the Old Colony, and whisky that claimed Scotland for its birth place. How my host's eyes dilated when I told him that I had fished and shot in his native land last autumn, and when I said I knew Bothwell-on-the-Clyde the climax was reached. His wife, a kind motherly woman, and three ruddy well-gro-wn children I was introduced to, the latter staring at me with awe when they learned that I had crossed the big ocean, and came from papa's land. One little four-year-old, in rather timid accents, asked whether " him would not always stay with them," and when answered in the negative it pouted its pretty httle lips, and seemed quite sad. A bed was offered me, but de clined, as I make it a rule not to sleep from the wagon. So at half-past four I was again in the saddle, and, after a pleasant ride of an hour, over a fair road — the distance being about nine miles — I cantered into Zeerust, similar in size and many other respects to Jacobsdal. Here, as before, I looked out for the best store ; at length I decided on what appeared the cleanest and most promising, which bore the inscription — "Niccoti Winkle." It certainly looked a strange name ; but then I was in a strange land. I rode towards it ; there was a group of four or five MR. NICCOTI WINKLE. 209 Europeans and several Boers on its porch. Taking off my cap, I asked for Mr. Niccoti Winkle. A roar of laughter greeted my inquiry. After the mirth had somewhat subsided, a good-looking, well-dressed gentle man approached me. " Niccoti Winkle is the Boer for store, and I am the proprietor of the establishment. Please dismount and make yourself at home ; your wagon is outspanned in my yard." I afterwards learned that the name of Niccoti Winkle has stuck to my kind host ever since this incident. CHAPTEB XIX. A BRIEF SOJOURN AMONG BOERS. Jacob's Engagement at' an End — My Late Driver " Sprung" — Sale of my Oxen — I procure some, Pets — Assumed Indignation at Kama — Boers' Cruelty in the Hunt — Abuse of Kama's Permission — A Visit to MoUoes — Its Chief or King — Prosperity — Mr. Jansen, the Missionary — His Untiring Zeal — The British Subjects at Zeerust — Their Boer Wives — The Gothic Episcopalian Church — Associations of the ViUage Church — A Hunter's Wagon — Trying to Dissuade me — Jealousy of the Boers — Its Cause — An Attempt at Extor tion — It FaUs — Adieu to Zeerust. With my arrival at Zeerust Jacob's engagement ter minates, very much to my sorrow ; for he has proved himself an excellent servant and capital driver — in fact, I had never seen any one get so much out of cattle, and use the whip so little. Before paying him, he wished me to let him go on to the elephant country; but, as he was only lent by Mr. Leask, and had a vrife and bairns at Klerksdorp, I dechned, although nothing would have been more satisfactory to myself. Besides, to have acceded to his wishes would have been the height of ingratitude to my kind friend. I thought Jacob had taken his departure when I met him in the viUage, decidedly the worse for what he had been imbibing. An hour after he came to me very intoxicated, and asked for a glass of spirits, which, of course, he did not receive. I asked him why he did not go home. Oh, he had spent aU his money, or gambled it away, so I gave him half-a-sovereign, and saw him PURCHASE OF PETS. 211 on the road to Jacobsdal. This is a fair specimen of the improvidence of many of these people who possess Hottentot blood. I found it a difficult matter to obtain a suitable driver, although many applied for the situation; so I sent to Jacobsdal and the neighbouring farms to make public my requirement. In the meantime, I held a board on my oxen ; four of them I determined to part with, for they had indicated a tendency to footsoreness, and had become very thin. As they were young and well-bred, I found no difficulty in effecting an exchange for a similar number of power ful animals, but the strangers were such clumsy coarse brutes that they entirely destroyed the symmetry of my team. As I was alone, and not likely now to meet traveUers, to break the monotony of my halts, I also procured as pets a goat, monkey, and cat. The first had to be driven for two or three days, the others took to their new life at once. Pussy became a great favourite — slept in my bed, kept Jacko in order, and, in fact, had a voice in aU matters that were going on. She became a firm ally of the dogs, and always with them attended my meals. Some poultry were also obtained, but they, poor things, were intended for the pot. I soon knew aU the people in Zeerust. Mr. Beed, owner of the Niccoti Winkle, invited me to take my meals with him, consequently I met all visitors, and was introduced to the wealth, beauty, and fashion of the community. The great subject of conversation, also of indignation, that excited the minds of this distant village, was the conduct of Kama, king of the Bechuanas, who had refused to permit any Boers to hunt in his o 2 <-12 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. country, or traverse it to reach the game haunts beyond. Such insolence was never heard of in a Kaffir before ; they would fight their way in and burn down Soshong if necessary. But this was all braggadocio ; they knew better than attempt to coerce Kama, for past expe riences had taught them that he was not a man to be trifled with. The decision of the Bechuana king was not to be wondered at, when it is a well-knoAvn fact that the Boers had enslaved, and even at the present time held in bondage, numbers of his subjects. Again, another reason is that the Boers spare no game they meet with, cow elephants or tuskless elephants are aU the same to them, and are destroyed in countless numbers even when no use can be made of their flesh. A countryman here narrated a circumstance that aU right-minded persons would think a disgrace to the perpetrators. Kama granted permission to three Boers to hunt for ivory in one of his very best velts ; after having obtained a rich harvest, the elephants betook themselves to the fly (tsetse) country, where then- persecutors dared not foUow, on account of theh horses. However, not satisfied with the reward they had received, they turned to and kiUed seven hundred buffaloes for the sake of their skins. The whole plain actually reeked with carnage. When Kama heard of this he went to them, and asked how they dared kill his cattle. Were they not the food of his children when the heavens refused to give rain ? and forthwith he drove them out. Unjustifiable acts such as these can have no excuse, nor can the Boers expect to be otherwise treated when they commit them than to be forbidden to visit the INSTANCE OF MISSIONARY ZEAL. 213 scenes of their misdemeanors. But as Zeerust derives its chief support from the ivory and ostrich-feather trade, it is a serious matter for the mercantUe com munity. With the hope of obtaining a driver, I rode over to Mr. Jansen's, the missionary at Moiloes, a large Kaffir town, situated on the spring that is the source of the Notawaney. The population must be between twenty and thirty thousand. The huts, which are most regularly laid out, were remarkably clean, and the population comfortable and well-to-do. The chief or king I met, a very good-looking man of five or six-and- thirty, dressed in European clothes, and speaking a little English. It is quite evident he does not love the Dutch, and would gladly transfer his suzerainship to England. He regretted that he had no hunting lands now, or how glad he would have been to accompany me, but he would send and tell Kama and Sechelle to be good to me. There is a great deal of cultivation in this neighbour hood, Indian corn and Kaffir corn (holcus sorgus) growing for miles along the approach to the town. I also visited the church and school — a clean, tidy buUd ing in the most populous part of the community. And I would now ask to whom all this apparent and substantial prosperity is due ? To Mr. Jansen, the good missionary. He is the first of what I may designate the real missionaries — those who have bond fide established themselves among the heathen — and he is a good example of those noble self-denying men that I shall have afterwards to speak of. Mr. Jansen is a Dane by birth, and by profession a saUor. Nearly thirty years ago he came here, and has made Moiloes 214 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. what it is. For many years he had fearful uphill work, for the Boers threw every obstacle in his way ; but his resolution and faith never faded him, and now he is reaping his reward. StUl, thirty years have not obliter ated the characteristics of the saUor. On the quarter deck — with speaking-trumpet under his arm — you could well believe that he was thoroughly in his place ; a bad- weather saUor, not one that has never known otherwise than to cruise in sunny seas. His house is very pretty, and fronted by a wide veranda, flanked on either side by substantial offices. Facing it is a grove of blue gum-trees, now sixty or more feet high ; while in rear of his residence is a beautiful garden and fine orchard. Irrigation he has taught the inhabitants, and to irrigation is due his success as an agriculturist. The hospitality of Mr. Jansen is well known to the very few white men who penetrate so far ; to me he extended it, and so exceUent was everything that I reaUy commenced to think I was in an English farm-house instead of a heathen land. When I bid him good-bye, the church-bell was ringing to summon the faithful to. worship ; and so large was the congregation that many a clergyman at home is without its equal numericaUy. The four or five British subjects who reside at Zeerust have all married Boer wives ; in the selections they have made they have shown such good taste, that I am really surprised to learn that such comely matrons are to be found of this race. We know that women, much more easily than men, adapt themselves to elevation in their social position of life, and an instance of it is here met vrith, for these ladies are as tidy, clean, and natty as their sisters in the old country. An THE JEALOUS BOER AND THE BOARD OF GUARDIANS. 215 amusing circumstance arising out of these marriages is said lately to have occurred here. The truth of it was vouched for, and believing it myself, I retaU it. An aspiring young politician, who possessed the " gift of the gab " in much greater proportion than common sense, had at one time been a suitor for the hand of one of the ladies in question ; for a long time his suit progressed favourably, when in- an unlucky moment one of these Englishmen arrived. He, in course of time, was introduced to the fair one, wooed and won her. The disappointed lover was irate ; but how could he show his indignation ? By rising at the first meeting of the guardians of the ' community, and proposing the introduction of a law to forbid Boer women marrying Englishmen ! One older than he added an addendum to it — that before it became law it should be submitted to the female portion of the inhabitants. It is unnecessary to add that it did not gain their approval. Behind where I am outspanned is a humble, unpre tending httle Episcopalian church, of Gothic architecture, no doubt the nearest to the heart of Africa that exists. Is there any man living who has not experienced a feehng of betterness on entering a place of worship or a grave yard ? The vrild, most froward, and reckless have aU their better moments, and few places . are so likely to produce them. Childhood, that period of our existence without care or sorrow, when parents, relatives, and friends surround us, is always associated with the viUage church. Years may pass by, we may go through foreign lands, sickness, and trial ; but the viUage church, its quiet green, the sheltering trees, are never forgotten ; memory wiU glide back to it and its associations some- 216 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. times by day, but more frequently in our dreams at night; and when man is about to be summoned to his last parade, and before the spirit leaves its earthly home, I have no doubt that even then he wiU think of the viUage church, associated with the dear ones of his youth. I would not have been deprived of paying a visit to this unpretending edifice for anything, but it must be done alone ; for there are actions in our life that we would prefer human eye not to vritness. At the porch, humble in spirit, I took off my cap and entered. There was the same solemnity, the same rest, the same peace so familiar at home. No living creature was to be seen except two beautiful birds, about the size of doves, that had built their nest among the rafters, fitting tenants for so pure and sacred an abode. I knelt by the altar and asked for myself a blessing ; when I rose to go forth I inwardly knew that the watchful guardianship of the Almighty was over this church, although it was truly in the uttermost parts of the earth. I afterwards made the acquaintance of Mr. Carter, the clergyman, who showed me much attention and kindness. That his heart is in his work is abundantly proved by the comparative life of exne this good man is leading. An explorer's or hunter's wagon is always a favourite lounging-place for those who have spare time on then- hands : thus I have constantly a levee of Boers around me. One wants to buy a gun, another ammunition or drugs. They wiU not listen to my explanation that I am not a trader — all men are traders in their eyes. Thus you are pestered tiU you get cross, and then they get cross, when they invariably tell me the same story, BOERS AFRAID OF FREE TRADE. 217. " Better turn back, Kama won't let you into the elephant country more than us, and you don't know what a hard time you will have before getting to Bamanwatto." Then another will add, " It wUl take you eighteen days to do it, and there is no water between Crocodile Biver and Soshong." Never mind, we shaU see what we shall see; but turn back I wiU not, till I interview Kama; and if I am not much mistaken in what I have heard of his character, he wiU not only grant me permission to go on, but give me some of his people as guides. The fact is, the Boers are jealous, and, had they the power, would stop every one from passing here. The ivory and feathers of the whole interior they consider theirs by right, and oppose all persons who may possibly obtain a share in this trade. Again, they particularly object to Englishmen entering far Kaffir-land, for they are certain to hear of their slave-hunting propensities, the numerous brutal outrages they have committed on the inoffensive native population, as well as the way they have swindled every one, from king to peasant, of grain, carosses, and other productions of this distant sun-dried land. Moreover, Englishmen have a way of speaking out their minds and calling a spade a spade, and traveUing away down into the Old Colony, and communicating with newspapers and persons of standing there. And as public feeling at present exists, the Boers are not altogether popular with the colonial government, and they know it. And who can be certain but that these hated Englishmen might not take it in their heads to annex them and release aU their folks (slaves) ? Who knows, indeed, if they let so many people go up North, that when they come back again they will not talk about 218 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. what they have heard and seen ? No, the Boers would close all distant Kaffir-land to the world ; but a hundred weU-armed Englishmen could open the gate in spite of the whole population, if it were assembled to oppose them. At length aU was ready for starting, the oxen were in the yoke and myself mounted, when up came a party of Boers, and demanded five pounds' duty on my wagon, a tax levied on aU traders. They showed no authority for their conduct, and refused me aU information but this, that if I did not pay there and then they would seize my wagon. That I was resolved they should not do, and affairs were commencing to get exciting and lively, when a friend came to the rescue. To my assailants he pointed out that the tax was only levyable upon merchandise going through the Transvaal for the purpose of trade, that I had nothing in my load but necessaries for the subsistence of myself and attendants, and therefore was not liable. To this they would not listen, and I as ob stinately refused to satisfy their extortionate demand. At length they attempted to remove a valuable gun- case from the wagon as security for their unjust demand. My patience was too severely taxed to submit any longer, so I jumped off my horse, armed myself with my revolver, and rushed in among them. The gun-case was dropped like a hot coal, and the scoundrels bolted as fast as their legs could carry them. The order to treck was given, and thus I bid adieu to Zeerust. CHAPTEB XX. PIG-STICKING IN SOUTH AFRICA. More Natives under my Wing — -My New Driver — His Likes and his Dislikes — Another One Wanted — " Count " or " Uncle " — A Pair of Black Oxen Pur chased — The Men in Possession — HumUiating Return — Scrimmage with a Dirty Boer— Sheriff to the Rescue— Verdict in My Favour — South African Scenery — Umganey in Gorgeous Array — Immense Effect upon his Friends — Is the Man Mad, or does he mean Suicide ? — Umganey's Explanation makes Darkness Visible — Game, that's it — Pigs ! — Fetch my Spear — Attendant and Self off for the Chase — I cannot get near the Quarry — The Quarry gets near the Macalaca — In fact, throws him — "Revenge!" I cry — Pig receives One Prod and I receive One Coup — Ingenuity of the Macalaca — Pork not so Scarce as it was an Hour Ago — Chase after Jackal — Silver Jackal — The Voice of the Jackal — Queer Ant-heaps — Umganey explains their Chimney- shaped Funnels — In a Strange Land — Another Addition to my Museum. Well, you aU know how I marched out of Zeerust — not exactly with colours flying and the band playing the old, old but never stale air, " The Girl I left behind me," stiU feeling quite jaunty and not a little proud of the way I had defeated the enemy. Trecking five miles, I halted by the last water to be found for fifty miles — two days and a half's work. Here a good deal of organising was required; the new bullocks were evidently not in their places, and a nigh-ox does not work well as an off-one, and vice versa. Moreover, the fatches . had to be filled, and a man told off to look after Buckey, the goat. While here I was joined by several Macalacas and Mashoonas, all on their way home from the Diamond- fields, where they had been at work. For protection 220 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and food they were anxious to join me, in return giving me their services. The representatives of the former tribe were fine, tall, slim, well-made men, such as would make the material of a splendid light company ; while the latter were thick-set, rather short, but exceedmgly powerful in build. Their experience of the Anglo-Saxon race at the Diggings seemed to have impressed them favourably, for the driver gratuitously informed me that they had told him that they knew the difference between Boer man and Englishman. It is pleasant to know that my countrymen in this far-away land keep up their repu tation for manliness and honest dealing. I had now a dozen mouths to feed, so that I should have to hunt more — a circumstance that gave me no httle satisfaction, for it occupied my mind, and prevented me from brooding ; for it is unnecessary to disguise the fact that I suffered much from loneliness, and would do so still more when I got beyond the limits — to which I was rapidly approaching — of where white men hved. Between myself and the Boers there was little sympathy, I acknowledge ; but stiU, there was a tie which did not exist with the black population — namely, they were of the same colour as myself. How fragUe is the straw that the drowning man catches at ! Almost as fragUe was the bond that bound me to the Boer, still it existed. As the reader should know all the dramatis persona of my travel, I wUl introduce him to my new driver. He is of Hottentot extraction, and from the Old Colony ; about forty years of age, and stands five feet six. Instead of being black, he is of a sickly yeUow colour, his head covered with innumerable little pimples MY NEW DRIVER MAKES HIMSELF FELT. 221 of hair; a nose that looks as if the bridge had been broken in during his childhood; legs that are so bowed that any of my pack might pass between them without destroying his equUibrium; while feet and hands that looked as if they had been made for a giant orna mented his extremities. In spite of all these pecu liarities, he was inordinately vain, wore a bunch of dazzling-coloured ribbons in his hat, a neck-tie of gigantic size, pattern, and briUiancy, and walked as if he were "the glass of fashion, the mould of form, the observed of aU observers," spoke as if his word were law, and treated all the community with an air of hauteur that was truly grand. I came in for some of this — a good deal of it, in fact, and more than I liked. It was evident he argued with himself thus : " This man knows nothing : it is extremely doubtful whether he could tell with certainty an ox from a horse ; and as to driving cattle and managing a wagon, he is as ignorant as the child un born." Now, I just knew sufficient of these matters to think I knew a great deal, and by no means liked the estimate placed on my knowledge. I am not guiltless of the fraUties of the human family — very, very far from it; and among my numerous weaknesses is, possibly, the overrating of my abihties, certainly not the under valuing of them. My new driver found fault with everything : nothing was right ; the leading cattle should be the after ones, the after ones the leaders ; Poonah was no use, and good old Swartland was a bad ox; Umganey was a duffer, and the monkey — which had bitten him because he had teased it — was to be knocked on the head. Well, we wiU see, thought I, when you get a few 222 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. trecks from Zeerust ; you are too near home, my fine fellow, to have any trouble with you now. Such was Philip — such was my latest acquisition in the driving line. Master Philip came to me with the information that another ox must be purchased, that a spare one was absolutely necessary, and that vrithout such an adjunct we never could expect to reach Bamanwatto. His argu ments were worth listening to — namely, that a hon might jump an ox, that lung-sickness might break out, and some of the cattle get footsore. There was truth in aU this, so, resolved not to baulk any movement that might assist to make my journey successful, I ordered the horse to be saddled, and rode off to a farmhouse a few miles distant to see if I could obtain what was required. Here I found a young Africander and his friend at dinner, to which I received a cordial invitation. During the meal I stated the cause of my visit, and the friend most obligingly offered to accommodate me. This gentleman was a Swede, and dressed in the most extraordinary outre fashion, aU the colours of the rainbow predominating in his attire, while massive jewellery decorated his fingers and vest. By familiar friends he was caUed " Count," by the general pubhc "Uncle." Soon a pair of black oxen were submitted for my inspection, and I took them on his warranty that they had been through the lung-sickness, paid the price- rather a heavy one — and drove them to the wagon. But when I arrived there, what was my dismay to find it in possession of several Boers ! The enemy had come in force during my absence, and taken hold of my goods THE BOERS BROUGHT TO BOOK. 223 and chattels. There was no use remonstrating, back it must go to Zeerust. Fighting was out of the question, for I was outnumbered to such an extent that I had not a chance. To have recourse to the last was objectionable in the extreme, for who knows what a man may do in the height of passion when engaged in a melee ? and I, unfortunately, am not the most submissive creature if I think my toes are intentionally trod upon. There was nothing for it that I could see but to put in the cattle and return ; it was very galling, very humiliating, it is true, and to be looked at, possibly jeered at, by the whole Dutch population of the vUlage as I passed through it, made me well Avish I had paid the nasty five pounds at first, and saved myself the degradation now before me. The cattle had been in yoke some time, and would have been in motion before, but that I felt it incumbent on me to expel a filthy Boer, who, boots and all, was lounging on my clean bed — for I had beautiful scarlet blankets, and took a pleasure in trying to keep it in some semblance of what I should have at home. He was a stiff-backed man, and as tall as myself, so I had no easy task ; however, in our struggle we both dumped out of the back of the wagon, my adversary fortunately underneath. In this rencontre I had not much to boast of, and I knew it. Things had reached this pitch when a horseman arrived ; to my great joy I recognised him as the sheriff I had met and entertained at Leichtberg. Here he was the chief government officer, and, I believed, a good fellow. The case was explained to him by my foes, and its monstrosity enlarged on by myself; I was caUed every opprobrious epithet that Boer language could furnish. 224 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Thus the scene lasted for half an hour, when the verdict was delivered to the effect that I was not a trader, simply a gentleman travelling for pleasure, so they had no right to exact the fee they demanded. My cattle were again out of the yoke and up to their knees in pasture ; the pets were scattered around enjoying themselves ; the sheriff sat upon a stool quench ing his thirst with brandy pawnee, while I was engaged sewing two buttons on my waistcoat that had deserted from their posts during the late engagement. Next morning we commenced the ascent of the hills at the back of Zeerust ; it was a long and fatiguing puU, stiff it was accomplished before noon. The view from their summit is truly beautiful, the landscape being charmingly diversified vrith hill, wood, and water, while the white houses of Jacobsdal and Zeerust peeped out of their dark-green luxuriant orchards — such a scene as one sees among the Surrey hiUs, only the habitations of man were far less numerous here, and the verdure more intensely brilhant. Charming views can be seen in Africa as weU as in other parts of the world. My driver uses his whip too much, and those who know this goad are weU aware what a weapon of torture it can be made. I gently remonstrated, but mutiny and desertion glared in the eyes of the delinquent, therefore I said no more ; my time had not yet come, thus the wretch plied his lash with additional vehemence. That evening we made a long treck, and did not out- span till after dark ; fires were lighted, although no wud beasts were apprehended, stiU, in a day or two they Avill be necessary, and there is nothing like commencing early. Next day we toUed over a road rough in portions HAS THE MACALACA GONE WRONG? 225 from sun-cracks, but otherwise good. Timber became much more abundant, in places that looked like dry river-beds it was luxuriant, camile-dorn and the or dinary mimosa predominating. After breakfast I gave Umganey a gorgeous old cricketing suit, of which blue and yellow were the chief colours. As he had been elevated to the post of major-domo it was necessary that he should be looked up to by his companions, and nothing is more conducive to this result among blacks — may I not add among whites ? — as being well dressed. It did one good to see how his face beamed with delight when he received the treasures. Umganey when hired and Umganey now are two totaUy distinct persons ; then he was thin and wasted, with a blotchy skin ; now he is fat and sleek, while his hide shines as if it had been well greased. Here one of the Macalacas rushed up to me ; he brandished his assegai, looked volumes, but said nothing inteUigible ; then rent his clothes, or at least took them off, for he wore an old soldier's coat of the 15th, and sat down.The driver stopped the bullocks, and I looked on in amazement. Was the wretched man about to commit hari-cari? Had he turned mad, or was this some vile attempt to create sympathy and prey upon my good nature ? I looked on and knew not how to act. Should I kick him or should I pity him ? It was hard to decide, for I was ignorant of the man's language, and he might either be the sufferer of some unknown or harassing Avrong or a malingerer. Undecided what to think or do, the object of my solicitude seized several handfuls of earth, and not scattering it over his head — as the Jews did of old — rubbed his chest and armpits with it. Some 226 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. dreadful sorrow — fearful grief — must have overtaken this swarthy member of the human family, and not knowing how to condole, I left him, entered my wagon, and lay down. I had smoked myself into the proper state of dreami ness to go to sleep when Umganey raised the curtain and looked into my apartment. On his face was a grin, very unsuited to the occasion, for I felt serious. At length he essayed to speak, and although he doubtless was voluminous and explicit — and further made up by pantomime what would have satisfied even a Surrey audience — I was as much in the dark as ever. My feelings and patience could stand it no longer ; I sat up and rubbed my eyes. But Umganey had evidently not fulfilled his. mission, on he chattered and chattered tiU I was perfectly nonplussed. That the affair was serious there could be no doubt — but what the affair was I did not know — or why should he waste so much breath upon it ? I was nearly arriving at the conclusion that my retainers had aU gone mad, that they had seen the Evil One or some of his emissaries, when Umganey dropped upon his feet and hands, commenced wallowing about and grunting, at the same time pointing out on the velt. Like the glimmer of dawn stealing up in the east to indicate that day approaches, so a glimmer arose in my mind that something was intended to be inferred that would interest me. Again Umganey snorted and floundered about, and pointed in the direction he pre viously indicated. Oh ! that's it, is it ? Game of some kind was near at hand, and to let me know that such was the case aU this trouble had been taken. I had the saddle put on the Basuto pony, and, IN PURSUIT OF THE PIGS. 227 taking my rifle, followed the first disturber of my peace of mind. The feUow was aU himself again, and stepped out manfuUy. In three-quarters of a mile he approached a brow of land. Cautiously he crawled to its summit, then returned, and indicated that he wished me to do the same. I dismounted and followed him. Our stalk was careful and well planned, so I looked over ; and what did I see, but two weU-grown, reddish pigs, with tall, straight ears, terminating in tassels ! The ground was favourable for riding.. Indian an tipathies to shooting such game arose in my mind, so I resolved to kiU them with the spear. I had several in my wagon, weapons made by the best man in England for such productions, so I returned and fetched one. I felt the point and edge of the long laurel-leaf-shaped weapon — in all parts it was as keen as a lancet ; thus nothing could be more satisfactory for my first essay in hog-sticking in South Africa. Over the brow my attendant and self went. In an instant he squatted in an earth ; but, as the game was ' alarmed, I left him to his oavu devices, and rushed off at the best speed of my mount in pursuit. The two pigs kept together, and showed a wonderful amount of capacity for getting over the ground ; for, although I applied my spurs unsparingly, I could not get within distance to use my weapon. At first the quarry went out over the velt, then turned and made for where we had first seen them, then they turned abruptly in their course, and rushed to where the Macalaca had taken up his post. " Pigs go to earth in Africa " flashed across me, " and the feUow has become earth-stopper." So I put on a final spurt to blood my lance ; but, just as I supposed I should succeed in doing so, the foremost charged the p2 228 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. hole my man was standing in front of; in a moment the animal went between his legs, tossed him several feet into the air, and he landed on his back, having completed a somersault. The foremost pig disappeared into the bowels of the earth, but the other, doubtlessly scared by my attendant falhng right before him, made a detour, and again scampered off over the velt. I could not overlook the insult my gillie had received, so did my utmost to make my horse overtake the com panion of the perpetrator of the outrage. The pursued and pursuer were both getting tired, though, if anything, I had the best of it ; but the brute kept doubling so, backward and forward, that it was as often on my left flank as on my right. Again and again I tried to bring my weapon into play, but was baulked. At length a chance arrived — a slight inequality of the ground gave me the advantage, and I delivered a severe jobbing thrust ; but no sooner had the creature felt the steel, than, out of sheer perverseness — I am certain for no other reason — it turned sharp to the left, knocked my horse's fore-legs from under him, and gave me as clean a coup as ever man got, or wishes to receive. When I got up I had stars in my eyes ; I was dumbfounded, and utterly incapable of further equestrian exploits ; so I looked after the game stiU in flight, and heaped blessings on its head. When my disaster occurred, the quarry was heading for the sanctuary its friend was now snugly ensconced in, and into it it would also go if my attendant did not bar its way. But, after the rough treatment he had received lately, I did not expect much of him. But when little is expected much sometimes is obtained. The hog approached the hole ; the Macalaca fled so OUR PIG-STICKING ENDS SUCCESSFULLY. 229 fast that he appeared all arms and legs ; but, wily man ! he had shut the entrance to the earth with several boughs of the prickliest of mimosa. The stricken creature rushed at this as if it were nothing — expected to go through as a bird would a spider's cobweb ; but it had reckoned without its host, and got stuck in consequence. The 'cute coloured man saw this, retraced his steps as rapidly as he retreated, and over the top of the orifice plied his assegai so dexterously, and with such good effect, that soon piggy became pork. I thought my thrust should have disabled the animal, and so it would with any creature possessed of less than seven lives ; for it had gone fifteen inches into the centre of the back close to the spine. After a shake, and a good rub at my eyes, I did not find myself much worse, except in feelings, for few of us hke to be taken down a peg by our own species, let alone by a pig. But my attendant was sadly bruised and scratched; however, he doubtlessly harboured no after-feelings of malice, but made it up by feasting to repletion on the flesh of the perpetrator's nearest relative. This animal was one of that species — and common aU over the northern portion of the country — which the Boers caU fieck-v ark. I had scarcely got back to the wagon, when a jackal, the ordinary grey species, called by the Kaffirs norwall, of the skin of which the warmest and finest carosses are made, crossed the road in presence of the dogs. They all saw him, and a grand chase ensued — right out in the open — in which he was run into after going about a mile. The other species found here is called the silver jackal. It has a black saddle-mark on the centre of its 2"0 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. back, plentifully interspersed with white hairs. It is a very pretty animal, and can be domesticated without difficulty, although occasionally given to be treacherous. The voice of the jackal is not in the least dis agreeable, as many people imagine — quite the reverse, I may say. In fact, it often recalled to me the giggle of a thoughtless, merry, school-girl. In a quiet still night — especially if the boys had left their fires and turned in — these pretty animals would come close round the wagon and keep up an uninterrupted conversation. The .natives also have a liking for them, and generaUy. smile, or even laugh, when they hear their voices ; but there is another feature, a species of cupboard love, in their love for them — -for no flesh do they appear to have greater avidity. Another change has come over the appearance of the ant-heaps ; instead now of being in hillocks, they have two or three chimney-shaped funnels for entrances rising to the height of three feet. These chimneys have a beU- mouth, such as are seen on the metal ventilators on board ship. As there is a reason for everything constructed by the animal creation, when of peculiar form or shape — for example, see the nests of some species of birds suspended at the termination of the finest limb of a tree, to make their young or eggs secure from the depredations of snakes — I puzzled my brains over the subject, but could not find an elucidation. However, Umganey, with the assistance of the driver, solved the mystery. Birds that prey upon ants are numerous in the locality, so that if the insects carried on their labour exposed, they would suffer sad diminution of their numbers ; but by this contrivance they get air, and possibly light, without exposing themselves to the attacks of their VENTILATORS OF THE ANT'S HOUSES. 231 persecutors. These ventUators have an extremely queer effect on the landscape, for they are very numerous, and impress the mind of the beholder strongly Avith the know ledge that he is not at home, but in a far-distant land. To day I shot in broad daylight an owl, a beautiful bird about the size of our English partridge. Its back is a delicate mottled slate-coloured grey, bearing a strong resemblance to those feathers I used to value so much, and which I obtained from the mallard duck, to make the green-drake fly of the angler. The stomach and under portion of the Avings are snoAvy white ; the talons strong but slender; the biU longer and finer than in the ordinary species of the family. This bird is diurnal as weU as nocturnal ; its flight is peculiarly swift and graceful, and it possesses undaunted courage. In fact, but for its persistent attack upon a bird much larger than itself, and a total disregard of my presence, it would not have lost its life. Having carefully skinned my trophy, I added it to my infant collection, which I hoped soon to see much increased. My team of cattle treck admirably; the beasts I have lately procured are strong and willing ; but the tout ensemble of the lot is not what it was when they left Natal. Never mind, " Handsome is that handsome does." • I forgot to mention that in my fray with the Dutch man I sustained a most serious injury to my hand. Like a goose, I inadvertently put my finger in his mouth, and he, like a wise man, nearly bit it off ; since then I suffer much from the sore, the wound doubtless resulting from the rascal not cleaning his teeth. CHAPTEB XXI. NEARING THE LION COUNTRY. The Driver and I come to an Understanding — An Addition to the Larder — A Hospitable Englishman — A Fight between Two of my Native Attendants — Their Mode of Battle — Some more Pugnacious Boers — I shaU have no Nonsense this time — The Affair satisfactorily ended — The Habit of Shaking Hands — Another Hospitable Englishman — Exchange of Presents — I meet some Traders — A Hunt proposed — Hartebeest brought down — A Herd of Quagga — I Shoot one —The Last Farm — In a Ditch — Rescued — Mr. Froud — Mr. Fayune— The Leader of the Anti-English Party — In the Transvaal — • Stewed Quagga —Curious Habit at Dinner— A Shooting Contest — My Victory — Marking off a Farm — Koodoo — Nightly Preparations against Lions — The Kaminyani — Their Projected HostUities against King SecheUe — I lose my Way — Come across a Trader — My Wagon turns up aU right — A Pauw. At length I have brought the driver to his level. He was not satisfied by over-flogging the cattle, but turned his whip upon the dogs and attendants. This, of course, could not be allowed, so I pointed out the errors of his ways, and he thought proper, after a little demur, to see them. The only casualty to be reported is that one of the new cattle, bought from "the Count," is sick and unable to treck. The driver says it has lung-sickness, and I am not a sufficient judge to decide ; whether or not, it is very annoying to lose its service. About sunset we crossed three times the erratic bed of what must be in the rainy season a considerable river. Its bottom was one mass of giant boulders, while its banks were fringed Avith a thick belting of AN HOSPITABLE ENGLISHMAN. 233 dense timber. At the last ford we stuck for nearly half an hour, and as it was by this time dark, we out- spanned soon after getting free. I was cautioned about this locality, as it frequently harboured lions, and a more liony place it would be difficult to find, so I had large fires made, and visited them twice during the night to see that they were kept up. During the next day I shot two stein-buck, beautiful little animals about the size of Scotch roe-deer, but much Ughter in colour. They were a welcome addition to our larder, for the stock of beef laid in at Zeerust has rapidly diminished with so many mouths to feed, and as to the consumption of mealy meal, it is reaUy alarming. This is supposed to be the staple of your people's food, and should always be looked carefully after ; if not it is sure to be wasted. Without a supply of it you cannot get on, and as it is dear, it adds much to the expenses of travelling by wagon. This evening we reached a farmhouse. The pro prietor was an Englishman, and entertained me most hospitably, besides sending to the wagon a quantity of milk, rusk, and beltong. His nearest neighbour is another countryman, about twenty miles north, and for months together he sees no stranger but an occasional passing Kaffir. Game abounds around him at some seasons ; but, unless to supply his table and to keep them from invading his corn, he does not trouble them. What an example this is for the Boers ! I can assure the reader — and even then it is difficult to believe that any Christian, could be guilty of such conduct — that I have seen them practise Arith their rifles upon bless-buck and spring-buck, leaving the carcases to rot upon the plain. 234 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. In the evening, before turning in for the night, whUe sitting at my fire, an altercation ensued between two of my attaches — a Mashoona and Macalaca — over a piece of meat that was broiling. One word led to another, tUl both became intensely angry, and although I did not understand, they were doubtless using the choicest Billingsgate that they could command. At length both rushed to the wagon. Umganey whispered in my ear, " Assegai, Bass," so I sprang up to prevent them from obtaining these weapons, of which they had tied an abundant supply along its outside. Frustrated in theh- attempt to arm themselves, they rushed upon each other. I would have interfered, but for my country man preventing me, who quietly said, "Let them fight it out, or you wUl have no peace." So I let them do so. Immediately they clasped each other and com menced butting their heads together like a pair of sheep ; the blows were terrific, for they sounded almost as loud as a weU-executed clap of the hands ; there was no attempt at boxing, only butting, and so effectuaUy was it performed that blood commenced to flow from each of the antagonists' noses. After the lapse of five minutes, employed in this kind of exciting work, both sat doAvn to recover breath to renew the encounter : then I interfered, and in half an hour after I saw the combatants sitting at the same fire and chatting to each other most cordiaUy, as if the past fight had no place even in their memories. My host has an immense kraal for his cattle, the waUs of which are quite six feet high ; stUl he is in the act of adding another tier of stones along its top. The reason for this is, that during the wet season he is much ANOTHER. BOER INTERFERENCE. 235 troubled with Uons. Last spring he lost no less than eight head of buUocks and cows by their inroads. Trecked at break of day, and in the afternoon arrived at LieAvfontein (Lion Fountain). The outspanning-place was admirably situated, Avith water coming to the road. In the neighbourhood were several Boer houses, orchards, and large mealy gardens, while poplar and blue gum-trees margined a pond, a large one, formed by a dam made by the track. The oxen were very thirsty when taken out of the yoke, so I ordered them to be driven to water at once, and went into my wagon for a snooze. I had not reposed over a few minutes, when Umganey rushed to me much excited. " That Boer man shoot ox ! " he said, and disappeared in an instant. In a moment I pulled on my boots and sprang from the wagon. Four Boers formed a cordon along the road, refused to let my cattle drink, and even, thirsty and parched as the poor creatures were, had forced them out on the velt. These men were aU armed with rifles, and by their manner denoted their hostility. I in consequence took down my Martini-Henry, shoved a dozen cartridges into my trouser pocket, summoned the driver to attend me, and ordered the cattle to follow me to the water. The wielder of the whip was in a terrible funk, and would have bolted if he could, but I gave him definitely to understand that he would do so at his risk, for his services I required as interpreter. Umganey in the meantime had got the bullocks together and close up to my heels, and thus I advanced upon the enemy, who closed together to bar my passage. When vrithin fifty yards of the foe I made the driver explain that 236 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the water being on the road was public property, that my beasts were parched with thirst and must drink, and if they wanted to do any shooting, they had but to let me know when they intended commencing. After this speech they gave place, and the oxen drank to their hearts' content. However, the affair was not yet settled ; in half an hour the Boers returned, considerably reinforced, and clamorously demanded to see me. Bifle in hand, I presented myself. At first I dreaded an attack, and all my boys and attaches, except the driver, seized their assegais and came to my support. .This demonstration might have been the cause, for immediately afterwards negotiations were opened which terminated in peace, and my late foes imbibed as much of my coffee as they could comfortably carry, while the veterans of the party joined me in a soupje of brandy. Then aU shook hands, and we were sworn friends for life. This habit of shaking hands is quite a nuisance among the Dutch descendants in South Africa. Whether their paws are clean or dirty, whether they know you or not, they do it, and would feel mortally offended if you refused. Supposing you are in a store ; a Boer enters ; he first shakes hands with the proprietors, and then with aU the customers ; whether he has seen them before or not is quite immaterial. The result of hostilities being avoided was that the entire community, frows and kinderkins, visited me, and a fearful diminution of my stock of candy and fancy biscuits ensued. It is extraordinary how public opinion wUl change. From being a mortal enemy, I had become most popular. My flesh-pots might have had much to do in this revolution of feeling. ANOTHER HOSPITABLE ENGLISHMAN. 237 Next day we trecked to another Englishman's. He was a tall, handsome, grey-haired man of fifty. He received me most hospitably, and introduced me to his Dutch wife and numerous progeny. Examining my wagon, he found that one of the wheels was working on the axle, so brought his screw-jack, removed it, and cut out a washer from the hide of a giraffe, to be placed inside the hub to prevent further friction. After per forming this service, which occupied over an hour, and in which he got himself considerably smeared with ante-friction grease, he sent me a present of six large fowls, two large baskets of peaches, and the same of apples, with quite an extensive assortment of onions, tomatoes, &c. &c. To offer to pay for them I knew I could not, Avith out offending ; so I thought, what could I spare that would be useful ? His boots were shabby, and I had a large stock, so I gave him a pair of new ones, reaching to the knee, Avith a strong pair of Latchford spurs attached. He would have declined, but I insisted; when he did not hesitate to teU me that, of all things he wanted, a pair of English boots were his greatest ambition ; for since he had been in the country, nothing but felt shoon had decorated his feet. Before parting, I gave him a silver-mounted briar- root pipe, such as would cost at home eight or ten shillings; but, not to be outdone in generosity, just as we commenced trecking, one of his youngsters drove up a nice heifer, in fuU milk, as a parting gift from his sire. I was the gainer in the transactions that had taken place, but I had used no artifice to be so ; and I am certain many a year vrill roll by before the memory of this pleasant meeting is effaced. 238 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Next afternoon I met some traders, who were out- spanned, so I unyoked, to spend the night in their com pany. They had their boys busily engaged gathering wood for the night-fires, as many lions had lately been seen in the neighbourhood. My people, in consequence, were instructed to do like-wise. As the sun was stUl two hours high, we determined on having a hunt, as there was an abundance of game around us. They were both well mounted, and, like the majority of Africanders, were fearless horsemen. After riding about half a mile, we were within a few hundred yards of a troop of haftebeests (kama). At a pre-arranged signal, off we started in pursuit as fast as our nags could carry us. From the first, I found that I was outpaced, and to such an extent that I pulled up to watch the actions of my companions. It was a glorious sight, and almost recompensed for the labour and trouble I had gone through. Begardless of holes and irregularities of the ground, both traders seemed to fly, while the game, no longer in doubt of their inten tions, emulated each other in their desire to be first. But the horsemen by degrees, and afterwards faster, commenced to overhaul them. Seventy yards barely sever the pursuers from the pursued, when one of the hunters drops from his horse, fires, and in a moment is in the saddle, and careering in chase of the game at the same headlong, break-neck pace. The shot has apparently been ineffective, for no animal has fallen. Soon the other trader jumps off and shoots, but with the same result. However, the quarry are getting fagged — sure sign that they are fat— and the hunters ride closer up to them before using their weapons. Twenty yards do not part the sportsmen . SHOOTING QUAGGA. 239 from the game, when both spring off their horses and shoot almost at the same moment. The result is that one brown beast is seen struggling on the ground, and another, sorely stricken and completely crippled, leaves the herd. I had taken up my position of observation under a solitary tree, for the sake of the shelter it afforded, and there remained seated after the game fell. I might have been thus employed about ten minutes, when the earth resounded Arith the noise of numerous lioofs. I sprung up to learn the cause, when I perceived a herd of quagga gaUofping up-wind, prancing, bucking, and kicking like a drove of colts just turned loose. From the direction they were going, by riding a few hundred yards I would be within easy shooting distance, so I jumped into the saddle, and plied my spurs. The quaggas did not alter their course, but increased their speed. A strong pull on the curb checked my mount- In a moment I was on my feet, and singling out the largest, pressed the trigger. For a moment the dust prevented me knowing the result, but when it cleared away, one of the striped beauties was ineffectuaUy trying to follow its comrades. I hurried up to put it out of pain, but it charged me, mouth open. When it was about ten paces distant, I again shot : my aim was the centre of the head; and vrith the report the bonnie beast fell to rise no more. It was a splendid mature staUion, measuring nearly fourteen hands at the shoulder, and would have been an ornament to any zoological garden. Although pleased at my success, I could not help feeling regret at slaying even for food such a magnificent animal. However, there is no flesh that the blacks of this part of the 240 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. world like so much ; and a good feed of it will put my people in good temper, and prepare them to face coming difficulties. About sunset, I put some shot-cartridges in my pocket, and went down to the water. In a quarter of an hour I returned with four coran, three ducks, and two brace of Namaqua partridges — the latter kiUed at one shot out of a large flight that passed. The boys had a glorious feed that night, and so had the jackals, whose pleasant tittering laugh was to be heard till daylight terminated darkness. Bidding my friends good-bye at sunrise, I reached Brackfontein (Salt Water Fountain) at eleven o'clock. This is the last farm, and has a most deserted woebegone appearance. The velt here is perfectly level, with a distant range of hUls to the northward, running from east to west. The grass is so burnt up that the surface of the ground looks as if it had been parched, while the brack pond, covering several acres, is thick with thousands of different species of water-fowl. On approaching the farmhouse my wagon mired quite up to the hubs in a ditch, and aU the efforts of my cattle could not draw it out. I did not wish to unload, always a tedious process, and was debating what course to pursue, when the proprietor of the homestead, without being asked, and solely out of the goodness of his heart, sent do-wn his team of oxen, which were made fast to the end of my treck-tow, and with a strong puU, and a pull together, took us out of our difficulties. I found here assembled several Boers, and an Englishman of the name of Froud. The young gentle man informed me that he had been an officer in the Boyal Engineers, or Artillery, and that now he was the state JOHN FAYUNE. 241 surveyor for the infant republic of Transvaal. He was a very successful sportsman, and as proof of his prowess presented me with half of a noble roy-buck (red) which he had shot in the morning. Here I received much courtesy and kindness, John Fayune, one of the Boers present, speaking English fluently. I had several times heard of this gentleman be fore, and from the character he had received, had no desire to make his acquaintance, for he was an acknowledged leader of the anti -English party, and reputed to be so bitter against my nationality, that he could scarcely be civU to them. He had distinguished himself in the numerous Kaffir wars, was an experienced and very successful elephant-hunter, had a large connection of relatives arid ' friends, and was so popular Avith the exclusive party that it was whispered that he probably would be the next President. Mr. Fayune is of French extraction, and stiU retains a great deal of the vivacity of his ancestors' race, stands about five feet eight, is slight and well-buUt, getting grey, and looks about fifty-five. Much to my surprise, we soon became excellent friends, and he volunteered me valuable information on routes, watering-places, and hunting-grounds . Here I received an invitation to dinner, which I accepted; the piece de resistance seemed to be stewed quagga, a dish that, however much admired by Boers and Kaffirs, I have not yet learned to like. There is a sweet flavour about the flesh that at once causes me to feel squeamish ; but there were, besides, antelope of different kinds, a fine joint of beef, and vegetables, so there was no necessity of leaving the board hungry. The people residing here seemed well- Q 242 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. to-do ; still there was that utter want of cleanliness and thrift that I have noticed in other of the farmers' dwellings. A curious habit prevails here : the males all sit down to table together, the females waiting upon them, and not commencing their meal tiU the former have retired. In this there appears to me a great want of sociabUity, and a deficiency of etiquette to the fair sex. If such custom were introduced at home, it would produce a revolution in the land. As there was a blacksmith and wheelAvright here, I had my wagon overhauled, as it would be my last chance to replace any portion of it that might be out of order. This was done, and no charge made for the service, as no breakage was discovered. After dinner all the men went out to shoot, possibly to show the stranger how expert they Avere with the rifle. The funnel-shaped ant-hUls previously described were the targets, but the practice was anything but brilliant. I invariably refuse to enter into such contests : firstly, I am not a Wimbledon champion ; secondly, they often lead to jealousies and bickerings ; so I declined firing tUl actually obliged to do so. The first shot I made was a fair one, grazing the side of the target, the second cut it in two, thus beating my rivals. That they did not like it was apparent in aU but Mr. Fayune, who laughed most heartily at my success, and unremittingly chaffed the vanquished at their defeat. Of course this was a piece of luck — no more — for doubtless any of them could have beaten me in a regular trial. My Martini-Henry at once became an object of great admiration, and the short barrel elicited much FIRST KOODOO COMES IN VIEW. 243 surprise at its performance, for the Boers invariably use weapons of immense length. After my victory, all mounted and rode off to the north-east to mark out a new farm. These people have a curious and certainly primitive way of measuring land — namely, as much as a horse wUl walk round in a given time ; accordingly fast- walking horses are in great demand, and are some times sent for a hundred mUes or more to be, used for this purpose, the owner of such an animal making considerable sums of money by letting it out to hire. I inspanned about half-past three, and in an hour afterwards had entered dense woodland ; noting that the road went nearly due north, I struck off to the west to see what game was in the vicinity. Here I saw the first koodoo (todo Kaffir name), but did not succeed in getting a shot. About an hour afterwards I came upon a large herd of roy-buck ; but the ground they were on was so dense and thick that I could not follow them on horse back, and they obstinately refused to be stalked. I forgot to mention that Mr. Fayune informed me that he was certain my horse was not saulted, and that I would be sure to lose him on the Crocodile Biver. I can only hope for the best, for I should indeed be sad if deprived of my enduring, affectionate, and intelligent Basuto pony after he has carried me so many mUes. Where we outspanned that evening a lion had been seen a few days previously, so I personally superin tended the collection of" wood, placed a loaded rifle and double -barrel in my bed, so as to be at hand at a moment's warning; but nothing disturbed us during the night. The hyaenas appeared to be numerous in the locality, for their low, plaintive half-whistle, half-wail, could constantly be heard. Q2 214 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. At evening next day we arrived at the chief viUage of a tribe of Kaffirs called Kaminyani. They have been resident here only about a quarter of a century, and are established on ground belonging to old King SecheUe, the man after Dr. Livingstone's own heart. For the privUege of settling here they have annually paid a royalty; but they have waxed fat, obtained immense herds of cattle, and become bumptious, and refused longer to acknowledge their suzerain. The consequence is that an immediate war is apprehended, and the neigh bourhood is much disturbed, and reputed as very unsafe for traveUers.The stronghold of the Kaminyani is on a coppy, or hill, about eight hundred feet high, and probably a mUe and a half in circumference at the base. Although it is an immense jumble of rocks, the inhabitants have managed to construct their huts in regular tiers up to the summit, on which stands their chief's residence. A river runs round two sides of the base, but a spring is reported to exist higher up among the rocks. Unless such were the case they could be beleaguered by a force such as SecheUe could easUy send, and in a few days be compeUed to surrender at discretion. Another thing, in case of war, what are these people going to do with their cattle ? They could not take them up on the coppy, for it is almost destitute of vegetation. My opinion is that they had better reconsider their decision before they risk hostilities with so powerful a chief. Next day we traversed velt covered with thorn- bushes and scattered trees ; saw a few antelope and a large troop of quagga. I lost my way in the evening, but two hours after dark, to my great surprise, and, I may add, joy, came across a trader's wagon outspanned. PAUW SHOT. 245 This was a most unexpected piece of good luck, for I not only got a comfortable meal but a bed. The owner was a young man, and going in the same direction as myself, so that I should now have company, the greatest boon I could desire. His encampment was abundantly supplied with large fires, for he possessed two valuable saulted horses, and hons were knoAvn to be in the neighbourhood. About ten we both turned in, but sleep I could not, for the wagon actually swarmed with bugs, so I came forth and passed the remainder of the night on the wagon- box. I was, further, very uneasy about my belongings, for I feared that, during my absence, proper precautions would not be taken to insure their safety. However, an hour after sunrise I heard the squeaking of a wheel that required grease ; I looked up and beheld my ship of the desert slowly lumbering along towards us. All was safe, although the cattle had spent a restless night. Halting the wagon I had the complaining wheel attended to, and gave the driver a piece of my mind for neglecting so important a portion of his duties. Next afternoon we approached the Notawaney, and must have seen during the afternoon treck thousands of guinea- fowls and francolins. I shot a pauw, a bird weighing over fifty pounds' weight ; it is a member of the bustard family, and possesses beautiful plumage. I consequently selected the choicest of its feathers for the benefit of some of my salmon- fishing friends. CHAPTEB XXII. " LIONS ! " TraveUing Habits of the Lion — His Haunting the Vicinity of Water — Conduct by Night and by Day — A Wearisome Treck — The Lion in the Matabele Country — The Skulking Hysenas — Wounds of the Natives — Livingstone on the South African Lion — The Bakatlas and the Lion — A Lion's Revenge — Livingstone Attacked — The Lion's shaking of his Prey — The Macalaca and his Musket — Our Bay Horse — Lions Expected — Precautions against Assault or Plunder — How Children are often Lost — The Notawaney — A Frightful Incline — "Lion!" — An Uncomfortable Night — The Scene of the Lions' Depredation — Horse Dead — Our People descend from their Trees — Col. lecting our Cattle — Bullock shot Dead in mistake for a Lion — Bravado — Tracing the Spoor — Come upon a Lioness — Killed on the Spot. " You wiU not hear a lion until you have crossed the Notawaney Biver," echoed in my ears Curtin, Gordon, Beed ; and, in fact, all the authorities in Zeerust said the same thing, although it was an undisputed fact that three had been seen close to Potschefstrom road a week or two before, and another had been killed a month or two previously in the vicinity of Klerksdorp. On this occasion the prophets were correct ; but it was one of those chance circumstances that sometimes occur, and lead to the belief that persons occasionally have the gift of divination. The fact is that lions travel so much in the wet season that if there is one within a hundred miles of you, you can never feel certain that it will not pay you a visit ; they appear and disappear in the most mysterious manner, and generally in the most unexpected way. Thus you may DRINKING HABITS OF THE LION. 247 pass through the most suitable-looking haunts for the' lord of beasts, and yet not discover a sign that would indicate his presence ; while, on the other hand, on the open bare velt, where there is scarcely enough shelter to hide a Namaqua partridge, up his highness will rise before you as if he had sprung out of the soil. Of one thing, however, you may feel certain : you wiU not discover him very far from water, unless at the season when the sexes come together, and then their conduct seems governed by no rule. At other times the lion always drinks once in twenty -four hours, frequently twice, immediately after dark or just before day breaks ; but if he should chance to kiU game during the day, and have made a hearty meal of it, before retiring to sleep he wiU go to water. As the lion is almost entirely nocturnal in his habits, this does not occur frequently, except in such distant, out-of-the-way places as are seldom intruded on by human beings. That the lion loves not man is certain, and by daylight will always avoid him if possible, unless he be come upon unawares, or be wounded, in either of which cases he avUI make a stand, and in the latter assuredly show fight. The afternoon that we approached the Notawaney the clouds appeared surcharged with rain ; towards sunset the whole face of the western horizon looked so dark and gloomy that one might well imagine that they intended to shut out the coming day. I had had a long, wearisome, trying treck ; game had been abundant on both sides of the route, but, Avith the exception of shooting a few francolins and guinea-fowl, I had not had my gun in my hands. But for the thorns this might have been otherwise ; for they were so numerous, so dense, that I could not bring myself to - 248 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. such an act of cruelty as to ride a horse through them. The wait-a-bit, the binder, and the Mimosa horribilis, or ivory needle, seemed here to revel and live in such close vicinity, that they were evidently on the most friendly terms. It was expected that the river would be reached by sunset ; but the road had been so heavy, and the heat so oppressive, that it now became obvious that we should be at least a couple of hours late. As the Notawaney is not fordable immediately after heavy rains, and there was every indication that such were about to faU, it was imperative that we should push on, and get across before a flood descended. It is a standing rule among African traveUers always to cross a river that you come to in your route ; let what AriU happen after that is performed, you are then on the right side. To what I have said about the lion here I should add one notable exception — namely, that in the Mata- bele country, where wars have been carried on incessantly for nearly half a century, the King of the Felidse has become so bold, that he not only hunts by day, but vrill attack man vrithout the slightest provocation. This is to be accounted for by the number of wounded and maimed men — unable to protect themselves — that have crawled off from the fight into the bush. This has even had an effect upon the hysenas ; for in the country of Lubengulo they are so bold that they have been knoAvn to attack people, and it is no uncommon occurrence to hear that children nine or ten years of age have been carried off by them in broad daylight. Among the Mashoonas, Macalacas, and Matabeles, it is frequently to be observed by strangers that many ABOUT THE SOUTH AFRICAN LION. 249 of these people have fearful gashes on their face — a wound that looks as if the cheek had been torn off — and such, in fact, is the case. The unfortunate has been lying asleep on the velt by his fire, when the cowardly skulker has stolen upon him, and, with the rapidity of lightning, and a force that is irresistible, torn off the victim's cheek. These depredations are to be attributed to the large spotted hyaena, a beast that sometimes attains the height of a small donkey. Before continuing my narrative, let me see what that apostolic man, David Livingstone, has to teU us in his " Travels in Africa " about the character of the South African hon. "The Bakatla of the vUlage Mabatsa were much troubled with lions, which leaped into their cattle-pens by night, and destroyed their cows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This was so unusual an occurrence, that the people believed that they were bewitched — ' given,' as they said, ' into the power of the lions by a neighbouring tribe.' They went once to attack the animals, but, being rather a cowardly people compared to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, they returned without kiUing any." Now these Bakatla were a peaceable, almost effeminate people, who supported themselves by their cattle and agriculture, and had lately suffered much from raids made upon them by their more warlike neighbours. The result was that many were driven off into the desert, wounded and starving, to become a prey to wild beasts. Thus the audacity of these hons is easUy accounted for. Again, " It is weU known that if one in a troop of lions is kiUed, the others take the hint, and leave that part of the country." 250 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. This frequently occurs, but cannot be accepted as a rule ; for I have known, when a lion has been killed, its mate has wandered about day and night, reeking its vengeance on whatever came in its way ; in fact, taking revenge many fold for the injury it had suffered. A brute, when actuated by these feelings, as may well be imagined, is most dangerous, and bold to a degree it necessity require it, at the same time cunning and stealthy ; and large as they may be, like all the cats, they have a faculty of hiding from observation truly surprising. " When in the act of ramming down the bullets, I heard a shout. Starting, and looking half round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon me. I was upon a little height ; he caught my shoulder as he sprang, and we both came to the ground below together. Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook me as a terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor, similar to that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of the cat. It caused a sort of dreami ness, in which there was no sense of pain or feeling of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. It was like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform describe, who see all the operation but feel not the knife. " This singular condition was not the result of any mental process. The shake annihUated fear, and allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the beast. This peculiar state is probably produced in all animals killed by carnivora, and if so, is a merciful provision of our benevolent Creator for lessening the pain of death." Wonderful indeed are the works of the Almighty ; even the inferior animals, although constituting the THE MACALACA'S TREASURE. 251 food of carnivorous brutes, do not die a death of pro tracted pain, but breathe out their life in a fortunate state of unconsciousness of pain. It is also a well-known fact, and I have seen many instances of it, that the wound produced by a lion's tooth breaks out and discharges periodically for several years to come after the injury has been done. This probably is caused either by the saliva, or corrupt animal matter adhering to the tusk inoculating the sore. But to my narrative. About half an hour before sunset it commenced to rain, and the wind feU almost to a dead calm. At the time I was accompanied by the young trader previously mentioned, whose wagon foUowed mine about one hundred yards in rear ; behind it was aU our loose stock — horses, spare oxen, and two or three cows ; these were followed by several blacks, speciaUy among whom was a man of mine, a Macalaca, who was returning to his far-distant home from the Diamond-fields, where he had been to work in order to obtain the much-coveted musket, great coat, and blanket. The care he took of the first-mentioned showed with what affection he regarded his treasure — and never for a moment did he permit his loved weapon to be out of his sight, I may almost say out of his hands. It mattered not how warm it was, or how much he suffered from want of water, or what scampering he had to do over the velt to keep the oxen and horses together, his musket was in his hands, although he might have placed it in my wagon, where it would haAre been perfectly safe. Among the loose cattle was a magnificent after-ox belonging to my comrade, a splendid beast, very fat, and as docile as an old milk-cow. It was beautifully 252 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. marked with black and white — in fact, was just such an animal as the eye of any one, connoisseur or not, would have rested on vrith admiration. Having men tioned one of the dramatis persona who flourished in what I am about to relate, I avUI give an outline of another. This was a large, powerful bay horse, Avith black points. Although not possessed of much speed, it was very lasting and steady under fire, and had the reputation of being the best elephant-horse in the country. Being saulted — although past mark of mouth — it cost one hundred and twenty pounds in Marico, nearly two hundred mUes to the south, so was of considerably more value here. In accordance vrith my habit, I was ahead, walk ing about fifty yards in front of my leading-cattle, with three or four of the dogs about me, when the young trader came up and joined me. His conversa tion commenced with the remark, that he did not like the appearance of the night, and that if hons were about the ford, they would be certain to be up to mischief. " What makes you think so ? " I inquired. " Just the night for them : on a clear night, or a calm night, you have little to fear from them. They vrill roar and make a row ; but when they do that you need not trouble your head about them ; but on such a night as this, they are as silent as a mute, and the first thing you know about them is that they are on the back of an ox or a horse. Captain, why don't you carry your gun ? You might want it here, I teU you, and I would not just keep so far ahead of the fore loper." So vrith him I returned to get my double-barrel, HOW BOER CHILDREN ARE OFTEN LOST. 253 whUe he went to his own conveyance to give instruc tions to the people in rear of it to be particular to keep the loose stock together, and close up to the wagon. In trecking, the point of danger — the place, in fact, from which you have most to apprehend from the attacks of wild beasts — is the rear, or behind the last wagon, when there are two or more together. It is from this reason that so many Boer and Kaffir children have been carried off by lions, as the favourite seat of these youngsters, and possibly the safest from other kinds of accidents, is the back part of the wagon, on which there is frequently a board slung to serve them as a seat. The Notawaney has abrupt and precipitous banks on both sides : here, at dry seasons, the stream does not flow, but is in a succession of deep, stagnant pools, some of which extend a couple of hundred yards in length. The sun had been down quite half an hour when I reached the southern bank ; the other wagon was close up, and all the loose cattle in their place. Putting on the brake, down my belongings slid to the bottom ; it was hazardous work, as the darkness had become very intense, so much so that I do not believe the driver could see more than an ox-length in front. When at the bottom we halted for a few minutes. The driver yells, " Amaga!" but the wagon is stuck. Another effort, still it does not move, but Umganey and myself go to the driver's assistance, and through shouting and whipping force the cattle to lay against their yokes, and we slowly climb up the incline. This incline resembled an artificial cutting, and was margined on both sides by a dense growth of trees, ever 254 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the case in the vicinity of water in South Africa. At the top of the bank I told the driver to stop for a few minutes, in order that I might assist my companion if he got into difficulties. Like myself he reached the bottom safely, but unfortunately there he became a fixture. For nearly half an hour we could not release him; however, patience and perseverance, as in every instance, had their reward, and the exhausted oxen, grunting over the severity of their toil, at length hung to their work and hauled together : the wagon again moved, slowly at first, soon more rapidly, tiU the summit was passed. But during these vexatious delays, the cattle that were loose took advantage of tha absence of their guard, and strayed up and down the margin of the river. Orders were issued to have them re-coUected without delay, and we trecked slowly on to the next out spanning-place, to be followed up by them as soon as possible. For quite two hundred yards of our course the trees almost interlocked over our heads, while their stems beneath were hid in the densest description of matted underbrush. With a feeling of relief we both got successfuUy through the woods, and entered again open velt, and we were congratulating ourselves that our work was over, when the yell of several people, the report of a gun, and an attempted panic among the working cattle, informed us that something unusual had taken place. Of what it was we were not long kept in ignorance, for one of our people, breathless from fright and exertion, came up shouting " Taou ! " (Bechuana, lion.) My friend and self rushed towards the scene of LIONS PROWLING ABOUT US. 255 action, with our guns ready for service ; but I had not gone many yards Avhen Umganey stopped me, en deavouring, in the few broken words of English he could command, to prevent me going any farther. " What does the fellow say ? " I asked my com panion. " That the lion can see in the dark, and if you go near him now, he wiU .see to~kill you, while you can't see to shoot him." WhUe Umganey 's interruption occurred, several voices from the vicinity of where the accident had happened caUed out, in Bechuana, that it was a quay (young cow) that had been killed. This was reassuring, for both had dreaded that the marauders had selected a horse, for, strange to say, they invariably choose that animal before aU others for their prey. My friend turned to me, and said, " We had better listen to Umganey's advice, as it is only a cow ; there is no use running any risks for it." So we returned to the wagons, had large fires made, and planned our course of action for the morrow. We could not help, however, being uneasy, for more than half our people were missing, and all the loose cattle and horses absent, they haring doubtless in their alarm stampeded back. A more uncomfortable night I have not often passed. A disagreeable, drizzling rain continued faUing, and we dare not take shelter ; moreover, the dogs were kept in a constant state of alarrh, giving utterance to their feelings of fear by incessant whines and suppressed growls ; while from the wood on the margin of the river, the lions were evidently having a battle over their prey; jackals and hyaenas around them giving vent to their 256 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. feelings by wailing because they were not participators in the feast. About three in the morning I had been round the fires to urge the boys to keep them up, when suddenly the draft oxen, who were tied to their yokes — the far end of the treck-tow being fastened to a tree — made a desperate effort to break loose ; but fortunately they were aU secured with new buffalo reims, which I had procured in Marico to be used on such occasions as the present. At length day broke, and we started for the scene of action, both armed vrith double eight-bore guns. We were not long kept in doubt what had been the victim, for there lay a large portion of the hind quarters of the old bay elephant-horse ; but where were the hons ? We did our best to discover them, but the underbrush was so dense that we could not hope for success. From several of the neighbouring trees our absent people now descended. In them they had been perched all night; and what between bruises, thorns, and wet, looked indeed the personification of misery. The tall Macalaca also presented himself : he also had found a hiding-place ; and from him we learn that he had fired at one of the lions, and was certain he had wounded it. Whether this was so or not, aU agreed in the statement that the lions, of which they said there were seven, had only left the remains of the carcase when they heard us approach. The missing cattle had now to be recovered; and we were far from feeling satisfied that we knew the extent of our losses. Taking the back traU, we spoored them for two miles along the road; here they had AFTER THE BRAGGART LIONS. 257 branched off (horses and cattle) to the right, traversed about three mUes of velt, and halted in the open plain. The quantity of blood on the trail we could not under stand at the time, but when we overtook the runaways the mystery was at once explained. The Macalaca, in his anxiety to kill a lion, had either missed that animal and lodged his bullet in an ox, or else in the dark mistaken the ox for a lion. Whichever way it was, there lay the handsome black and white bullock, with every evidence that the hours of its hfe were numbered, so the edict went forth for it to be slaughtered. Beturning to the wagons an hour or two afterwards, we found that in our absence the lions had come back, and taken away the remaining portion of the horse. This looked so much hke an act of bravado that we resolved to make another effort for the destruction of some of their number ; but among our people, none could be got venturesome enough to undertake the spooring. The promise of a cup of gunpowder ultimately induced the Macalaca to volunteer ; and from the mas terly manner in which he commenced his work, it was easy to see that he was an old hunter. Soon he led us across the thick jungle on to more open ground ; this he traversed at a rapid pace till some loose rocks forming the margin of a coppy were reached. For a few minutes he appeared at fault, when, looking to his left, with a grunt he pointed his finger, brought his gun doAvn, and cocked it. Looking in the direction indicated, a lioness, vrith the hip-bone of the horse between her fore legs, lay facing us. Her expression denoted that she was anything but pleased by the in terruption. At the time she was seventy-five yards off — too far to make certain work ; so we resolved to lessen R 258 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the distance by one-half. While doing so, two lions that must have been behind the rocks got up, walked leisurely away, gradually increasing their speed, till they disappeared. Such conduct was evidently not going to be pursued by her ladyship. With her eyes firmly fixed on us, and her head flat upon the ground, she watched our move ments vrith an earnestness of expression that cannot be ^ound in any other animal, her taU aU the time moving gently to and fro. My companion quietly said, sotto voce, " Don't fire tiU you see her ears twitch ; " and scarcely had he said so than they were drawn back with a quick spasmodic motion. " Now's our time," he said ; and a brace of bullets, one in the shoulder and another in the head, turned her over on her side, dead. Not a struggle occurred after the shots were fired, and so simultaneously were the triggers pressed that the two reports sounded as one. On returning to the wagons we soon discovered what had made the oxen attempt to stampede, and the dogs so uneasy during the night. Several lions — the boys said five — had walked repeatedly round our encampment at less than a hundred yards' distance. In spite of the drizzling rain, there remained the spoor, a proof that the lads' assertions could not be controverted. CHAPTEB XXIII. ON GORDON CUMMING's GROUND. English Park-like Scenery — My Companion does the Shooting — We meet a, Boer Family — A Picnic on the Limpopo — The Gentle Art — Our Captures — The Belle of the Party — A Walk by the River-side— A Shriek— The Lion wounded to the Death — How the Lion was disturbed — Boer Women have no Fear of WUd Beasts — The Drinking-place of the Animals — The Mapaney Bush — The Boomslang Tree — Gordon Cumming's Driver — A Memorable Tree — The Limpopo River — The Animals that are found here — How I lost a Dog — A Fine Night — My Pony Restless — I replenish the Fires — A YeU and . a Shot — The Dog brained — The Panther's Prey — A Good Shot — Bringing down Hartebeest — The Basuto Pony Sick — The Symptoms of his Disease — On the Spoor of the Giraffe — Honey-bird — Curious Superstition — Bagging my Second Pauw — The Black BuUock Dead — Swindled — Poor Pony Worse — His Intense Sufferings — Death puts an End to his Agony — The Secretary Bird — A Fight between One and a Snake — Origin of their Name — A PecuUar Insect — A Gathering of Boers — Welcomed — ReUgious Service — Impressive Scene. After leaving the Notawaney, we made three trecks through velt densely covered with thorns, and margined by heavy timber. Guinea-fowl and francolin were very abundant, while turtle-doves cooed from every tree. The country, although flat, is very pretty, and not unlike some English park scenery, owing to the quantity and diversity of the timber. Although close to the edge of the tropic of Capricorn, the foliage is far more characteristic of a temperate climate than of a tropical one. I carry my gun or rifle constantly with me now, but it is more for protection to myself and animals than anything else, for all day large antelopes have been » r 2 260 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Avithin sight of us in one direction or another, and I have not pulled a trigger upon them. As if by common consent, my traveUing - companion does the shooting, and I eat of the results of his prowess. As a rule there are no class of people more jealous of each other than sportsmen. It may be perhaps because I have kUled such quantities of game, in nearly every part of the world, that my ardour has cooled ; but whether on a Scotch grouse moor or deer forest, an American prairie or African velt, I would sooner far see another do the shooting than do it myself. Yet I love to look on and see good work done in a proper sportsman-like manner. Where we are now is the centre of Gordon Cumming's hunting-ground. Elephants and buffaloes have become scarce since then in this locality; but there is stUl enough of other varieties of game to satisfy any but the most bloodthirsty. I wonder if his ghost now wanders about here in company with the spirits of the game he slew ! About eleven o'clock we crossed a small stream vrith very steep banks ; then, following the course of the road, turned off to the eastward, trecked on for about a mUe, and halted in the middle of a fine open outspanning- place on the margin of the Limpopo. Two strongly- built, high, and massive kraals stood close by, ominous indications that the lord of the forest was fond of the neighbourhood. Small blame to him, I say, for selecting so pretty a locality. While outspanning, up came another wagon ; the young trader knew its inmates, and accordingly in troduced me. They were a Boer famUy travelling to a distant settlement, and consisted of a young husband, ANGLING ON THE LIMPOPO. 261 younger wife, sister-in-law, and baby. As they spoke only a few words of English, and I an equally limited amount of Dutch, our conversation was not particularly instructive, in fact, I may say it was a little mixed. But for what I lacked the young trader made up ; thus soon it was arranged that we should remain where we were, as it was Saturday, and not treck till the following afternoon. As the Limpopo abounds with fish, we decided after lunch to try our skill in the gentle art, I promising that if the ladies would join us at the river, Umganey should make coffee for the party — in fact, try my best to make them have " a good time." My motion was carried without opposition, so I had my chairs removed to the water's edge, a fire lit, and everything put in order to render the picnic as pleasant as possible. About three o'clock we commenced fishing, each having his whip-stick for a rod. Our tackle was primitive, and our bait a piece of fat. However, the fish here were not skilled in the deceptions practised by man, they bit ravenously, and consequently in a very short space of time we had captured more than we knew what to do with, for Kaffirs wiU not eat them at any price. Our basket consisted of two genera, one of which was what is called here the big scale, resembling very much the white fish (Cor eg onus albus) of the United States and Canada. Some of our prizes weighed upwards of ten pounds, and were evidently in first-class condition. The other fish were siluridce of different species — some very large, black, and rather repulsive, others bright, beautifully spotted, and sUvery. When the sport was at its height, a crocodUe popped up his ugly snout close by, but before a rifle could be brought 262 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. to bear upon him, he had disappeared; however, the fish refused further to be taken, or else, fearing the interloper, had departed for other haunts. About four the ladies joined us ; Umganey was in great form, and soon produced an admirable cup of coffee for each, while a tin of fancy biscuits was handed round. Having aUowed sufficient time for these good things to be consumed, as a piece de resistance a bottle of sugar-plums was brought forth. The way the dear creatures took to them was charming, and how they disappeared was marvellous. However, the young mother was caUed away to attend to the wants of her progeny, but the sister-in- law remained. I have so often spoken of fat Boer girls that I am almost ashamed again to allude to the subject, and will therefore go no further than to say that the belle of our party was no exception to the rule that seems to govern her race in this part of the world. At last the young lady became tired of inactivity, and wandered along by the river's margin. She might have thought such charming rustic occupation would entitle her to the attention of a swain ; but I could not speak her language, the young trader did not evidently believe in love-making, so she was allowed to proceed alone. She might have left us ten minutes probably, not more, when we heard a shriek so loud and piercing that each picked up his rifle and rushed towards the girl. What on earth could be the matter ? Perfectly stUl, she stood gazing at something. The race was to the swiftest, the brother-in-law was first by her side ; next instant his heavy elephant-rifle was at his shoulder, the report echoed away in the A BOLD BOER WOMAN. 263 distance, and with it another sound, the yell of a lion wounded to the death. We were soon on the scene : the marauder struggled in hopeless agony, for his back was broken. A shot through the head at a few paces ended his career. The young lady had disturbed his lordship taking his siesta on the edge of the reeds ; at first she was under the impression that he was going to spring on her, but the shrill yeU she gave, and her pluck in remaining facing him, seemed to have changed his resolution. Boer women, having from childhood up wards been associated Avith vrild beasts and reptUes, have not the dread of them that our home-bred beauties possess. The river is very lovely here, and is almost equally divided into pools and rapids about the size of the Thames at Maidenhead, and nearly uninterruptedly clothed with wood. As a rule the timber does not come to the margin of the water, but a belt of sand twenty or thirty yards Avide severs them ; this is particularly noticeable on the inner side of a bend in the river, these banks becoming the favourite resting-place of crocodiles. At sunset I found much pleasure in sitting on the brow of the stream watching the opposite sand; being free from bush.it appeared to be selected by the greater portion of the weaker beasts for a drinking-place. First, the guinea-fowls and francolins would make their appear ance at the edge of the sand, having stealthily crept out from the bush, after taking a good survey up and down to see that no danger lurked near, and being satisfied, they would run across the sand and enter, the water to take a hurried wash and drink, the whole manoeuvre not occupying a couple of minutes, after which they would 264 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. retreat in the same cautious manner. Then the larger animals would follow, the timid and weak first, the stronger varieties later on. For the greater safety of our cattle we took advan tage of the kraals ; but vrith the exception of a lion howling across the river, and a few hyaenas and jackals around our bivouac, we were untroubled vrith night marauders. Such was the Avind-up of the day on Avhich we picnicked on the Limpopo. Here there is a great alteration in the appearance of the velt, for the reason that the terrible thorn scrub is giving place to the mapaney bush, a strange yet far from unattractive member of the vegetable kingdom. I wUl attempt to describe it, for the farther Ave proceed north it becomes more abundant, tiU ultimately it altogether assumes the place of the ivory-needle thorn. Its leaf is thick and fleshy, with the stem, arteries, and veins deeply marked; the shape resembles the wings of a butterfly, or, rather, two hearts joined, which, Avhen the sun becomes extremely hot, close together upwards, thus affording very little shelter from its rays. The height it grows to is usuaUy about three feet, although under favourable circumstances — where the soU is moist and shelter from larger trees found — I have noted it attain an altitude of six feet. As the stems are thin, pliant, and very brittle, there is no difficulty in gaUoping through it, and as it is without thorns no injury occurs to your horse from doing so. The smaller antelopes are very partial to this cover, so much so that if you approach cautiously up wind to a clump of it you are certain to get a chance to bowl over a stein- buck or diker. Cattle and horses will not eat it ; this is to be regretted, for if in its foliage they found satis- 'AN HISTORICAL TREE. 265 factory food, it Avould prevent them wandering many a sorry mile in search of pasturage. After two more trecks we arrived at the boomslanor tree. This tree is almost historical, for when Gordon Cumming was encamped under its shelter, his faithful and well-tried driArer Hendrick was seized and carried off from under his wagon by a lion. The intrepid hunter afterwards revenged his death, but even in that there is little consolation for the loss of a valuable servant. This tree resembles a gigantic ash, has a very spongy, smooth bark, with a small, fish-shaped leaf. On its bark were cut the names of the most celebrated travellers that have visited this region, prominent among which are those of Gordon Cumming, now nearly obliterated from the ravages of time ; Baynes, the well-known ex plorer ; Hartley, the great elephant-hunter ; and Mauch. In a weak moment I added my own. Its latitude is just to the south of the tropic of Capricorn, and within thirty yards of the beautiful Limpopo. This stream, if in England, would cause poets to rave about its attrac tions, and they certainly would have a subject deserving of their raptures, for its clear waters, wooded banks, and constantly repeated pools and rapids — here and there interrupted by beds of rocks or massive boulders — give it a bewitching air of enchantment. The first time I viewed this portion of the charming river, on the opposite bank basked several crocodiles, while francolins and guinea-fowls dusted themselves in the loose sand. In the adjoining trees was a quantity of the pretty little grey monkey, familiar to the neigh bourhood, while a little farther down its course drank about a dozen of the awkward-looking, but powerfully- 266 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. built bastard hartebeest. Elephants had been here lately ; their spoor was to be seen all over the neigh bourhood, and broken and felled trees attested the strength of this mighty rover of the forest. The hippopotamus is also found, but not in such abundance as in years gone by. Nevertheless, every morning before the dew has left the grass, his immense tracks are easily recognised. In the forays that this ungainly animal makes nightly in search of food, it raises its feet so slightly that all that obstructs his passage gets broken down, thus leaving behind a well-marked path. Although I did not lose a driver here, I lost a dog, fortunately the very one of my pack that I could best spare ; it was a cross between the bulldog and mastiff ; it possessed not a particle of courage ; and, worse than that, it had a hankering affection for the Avagon and the good things that it contained, that made it no easy matter to induce it to follow me. When I purchased the brute I truly thought I had obtained a treasure, and the way he fought with his companions to establish his position made me believe that he would prove a useful and formidable companion in the pursuit of the fierce naturae ; but he had not been with me more than a few days when he appeared to lose all heart, and live but to gratify his appetite. In these distant countries, and following such a life as I am now doing, the horse becomes one of the most watchful animals you possess. During darkness they wUl very seldom lie down, because I suppose in that state they could be taken at disadvantage by prowhng marauders. The foUowing incident happened in this way. A SNAP-SHOT THAT KILLS A DOG. 267 After my habit I had tied the little bay Basuto pony to the. after-wheel of the wagon. I had been asleep several hours, when I was aroused by a sudden jerk upon it. Picking up my gun, and shoving my feet into slippers, I went out to discover what made the horse so restive. The hight was fine, with a clear unclouded moon, such a moon that, with the exception of the hunter's moon in America, could nowhere else be seen. As far as I could note, there was nothing in the vicinity to alarm the animals ; so I turned my attention to the fires, which were now reduced to a mass of gloAving ashes. On similar occasions, and under such circumstances (fine clear nights), fires are of little use ; still, as an abundant supply of fuel had been col lected, I placed a quantity on my own fire, the after one just behind the wagon, then went forward, and did the same to the one in front of the leading bullocks. I noticed that the majority of the oxen were standing, and facing in the same direction ; still I did not consider that a circumstance deserving of particular consideration. I scratched Swartland's withers and fondled his head, then spoke to Buffle, and afterwards had a talk with Poonah ; and whUe doing so I heard a yell from the wagon ; in a moment I jumped on one side, so as to avail myself of the light of the fire ; almost instan taneously something passed between me and it ; I fired a snap-shot, and, to my disgust, I found I had shot — dead as a stone — the worthless dog. At the moment I fired he was in the jaws of a panther, and the injuries he had sustained from its fangs showed that if my luckless bullet had not ended his career, he could not have long survived the frightful gashes along 268 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. his loins. It's no use regretting, but had my baU gone a foot farther back, I doubtless would have had a splendid hide to repay me for my loss, if such it deserves to be considered. Here I made Avhat I thought a wondrously good shot, yet it was one of those lucky incidents that are the exception, not the rule. I found some hartebeest in the woodlands ; they Avere very wary, and as the Basuto had not speed enough, I could not overtake them. I, however, followed the game for nearly an hour ; but whenever I dismounted to fire, they managed to get trees and bushes between myself and the object of my aim. At length my perseverance droAre them into the open country, on reaching which they aU went off as hard as they could scamper. I was going to give the chase up as a hopeless job, although we wanted meat, so was about to retrace my steps when the antelopes halted. They were over five hundred yards distant, stiU I raised my sight, knelt on the ground, and took aim — not that I expected to kill, I can assure you — when, Arith the report, the leader of the herd sprung into the air, pitched upon her head, made half a dozen ineffectual efforts to regain her legs, each more futUe than the preceding, then turned upon her flank, and yielded up the last, remains of vitality. I am in great trouble. My poor little Basuto pony, the last of my Natal stud, has died of horse- sickness. Thus I have to grieve over the double loss of 'a most valuable animal and also a hardy affectionate companion. We have travelled so far together that I am certain the reader avUI agree vrith me that the manner of his death deserves to be explained. CHALLENGED BY A HONEY-BIRD. 269 When turned out to feed in the morning, contrary to his habit — instead of commencing grazing — he went and lay down. Umganey called my attention to the circumstance ; but, not being conversant with horse- sickness and its symptoms, I thought nothing of the matter, but went out to shoot some guinea-foAvl or francolins. On my return, about eleven o'clock, I pro ceeded to look at my poor little beast ; he was evidently very ill, and so restless that he could not lie still in the sequestered corner he had chosen ; during a quarter of an hour I was with him he must have got up and lain down four or five times. The symptoms of the disease that showed themseh-es now were great puffiness over the eyes, which themselves seemed to have lost all lustre, great swelling beneath and between the jaw-bones, a hot crusted nose, a staring coat, vrith much sweating along the flanks. I was perfectly helpless to relieve him — I had never heard of a cure, and the sufferer appeared too far gone to be benefited, even if I did. As the horse could not travel in this state, I gave orders for trecking to be postponed till the morrow, and, accompanied by a Macalaca — the fellow who shot the ox — went out to shoot. About a mile from home we struck the spoor of some giraffes, but it was too stale to follow. This is the first of their long slipper -like footprints I have seen. At this time a honey -bird came and chaUenged us to follow it, we did so for half an hour, when it led us to a very large mimosa-tree, with one of its limbs torn off. My attendant ascended it, and procured about a pound of beautiful honey, in a comb as white as snow. The natives, but I am not of their opinion, firmly believe that this bird is not to be trusted — that it wUl frequently lead those who follow it up to 270 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. lions and snakes. Such a supposition is easUy accounted for — in following the bird, a lion may have been en countered, or a snake nearly trodden upon ; but that it is the honey the knowing little scoundrel is after there is no doubt in my mind. Its perfect confidence in man is extraordinary — it wUl hover in your face, sometimes you may almost imagine that it is going to light upon your shoulder,' after which it will fly forward a few paces, and, by its actions and voice, do aU in its power to keep at tracting your attention. It is customary, after robbing the bees' nest, to leave some of the spoils as a reward to the discoverer. Although I saw several different species of antelope, I did not shoot at any, as the range within which they permitted me to come was always very long. However, I bagged my second pauw, a fine bird, but not so large as its predecessor. On getting back to the wagon I found the black bullock that I had purchased from the Count dead ; it had never worked since the first day after leaving Zeerust, and then only for a few hours. This was an unmistakable case of lung-sickness, and I cannot help believing that the vendor was aware that the beast was ill when he sold it to me. It is disagreeable to suspect people of dishonest practices — at least, so we should call such a transaction in England ; but in the centre of Africa they deem victimising one another deserving approbation, and a fit subject for future chaff. The poor little horse is also worse, its head more swollen, whUe the perspiration drops from its flanks. . It wiU not leave the wagon, and when I make my appearance follows me persistently about, even attempt ing to rest its head on my shoulder. It has a dreadful DEATH OF THE BASUTO PONY. 271 cough, coming from its very vitals, and so severe that you would almost expect it to wrench the victim in two. That cough once heard wUl never be forgotten, and when it breaks the stillness of the night must fill the hunter's heart with anguish. Poor pony, I could do nothing for him ; he lay down and got up, stood over the cooking-fire, haunted Umganey and myself. At last darkness came ; I retired to the privacy of my sanctuary, but that fearful, incessant cough kept me awake, sleep was impossible ; about midnight a more severe attack of it took place, accompanied by griping. The struggles caused me to come out of the wagon. Umganey was before me ; silently, I joined his side, while he stood and looked on. I spoke a few kind words to the sufferer, and even in its intense agony it raised its head as if expressing thanks for the sympathy. But a more severe spasm than the previous one came ; the victim tried to regain its legs, spun round in the effort, and fell — a few kicks, a perceptible shiver, a quantity of spume rushed from the nostrUs, and all was over. Umganey said nothing, but seemed to think much ; I heaved a sigh, the depth and earnestness of which are seldom rivaUed by those who deplore the loss' of their friends. Next day we made a very long treck ; when we left our encampment almost every tree had a vulture in it, and every bush contained a jackal or hyaena. I should like to have stolen back and witnessed the on slaught, had not poor pony's carcase played so prominent a part in it. At night we reached the last bend of the Lim popo, for whereas it has been flowing north previously, from this part it turns abruptly, and flows almost directly east. The scenery here is remarkably pretty, rolling 272 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. land covered with timber ; but farther down the stream's course it must be more beautiful stiU, for its progress seems to be interrupted by high hiUs. But there the wayfarer, accompanied by horses and bullocks, cannot enter, for the tsetse-fly has its home among them. While walking in front of my wagon, for I am now by compulsion a pedestrian, I observed great numbers of secretary birds in search of their prey — snakes. As nobody ever shoots or. molests them, they are very tame, and eAonce no fear of man even when within twenty or eA^en fewer yards. They are of a slate colour, and about the size of the Kaffir crane, with a formidable eagle-shaped beak, and a very large, harsh- expressioned black eye. They do not walk or hop, but march along with strides so long and regular that it suggests to the beholder that they are assuming a means of progression — playing a part — to attract attention. That snakes are abundant in the locality is obvious, or they would not be here. I had the fortune to witness a combat between one of them and its prey ; as I was within a short distance I was able to see the fight from beginning to end. The bird rushed forward to seize its victim, but the latter being on the alert, this was not accomplished. The attacking party then strutted round, holding out the termination of its wing to be struck at by the snake. This occurred many times tUl the assaUed made a false blow, and in a moment the bird had it in its powerful beak, and flew up with it aloft, quite two hundred yards, then dropped the reptile, descending after it vrith the velocity of a hawk. Again and again this was repeated, till, I suppose, the snake being dead, it was carried off to a quiet retreat to be made a meal of. A PREY-PROBLEM. 273 In the Colony and the Bepublican States there is a law against their destruction, for doubtless they do a great deal of good. Why they are caUed secretary- birds I learned from an old French work. On the top of the head each bird has a few stiff, upright detached feathers ; these were supposed to resemble the quill or quills stuck behind the ears of a clerk, hence the name secretary. They are easUy domesticated, and have been introduced into Guadaloupe and other French West Indian Islands to make war upon the formidable reptile — the fir-de-lance. A most peculiar insect here first came under my notice ; it was nearly an inch and a half long, clothed Avith almost black hair, and about the thickness of a pipe-stem. The method it adopts to secure its prey is very peculiar, and, in fact, rather astounding, for it places its head and shoulders in the entrance to an ant- hole, then commences a quick vibratory motion. The ants peep out or come near to learn the cause of the disturbance, when they are seized by the powerful forceps Avith which the intruder's tail is armed; but the puzzle is, with its head and shoulders sunk in the ground, how does it see its prey ? Our treck completed, and the camping-ground reached, to my surprise I found at least a dozen Boer wagons there before me. Both males and females came forth and gave me a hearty welcome, the latter each bearing a plate of rusk bread as an offering. This habit I have not observed among the Boers before, and I should imagine it had a Biblical origin; whether or not, it is a very pleasant way of making the stranger feel that he is welcome. Just as night was closing in a religious service was performed. An old grey-headed 274 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. 4 man prayed and spoke a few words of advice to the listeners; his delivery was very forcible and earnest. I could but imperfectly understand him, still I felt that what was being said was truth fit for aU to listen to, and practice. Twenty stalwart men, with numerous women and chUdren, kneeling upon the ground, addressing their supplications to Heaven, in the middle of the forest, the whole scene iUuminated by the fitful blaze of several fires, was as impressive a picture as any one could gaze on. As I viewed it I thought of the Covenanters in days of old, when the peat-moss and the mulr-side were the only places Avhere they could offer their adoration to their God vrithout fear of interruption and violence. CHAPTEB XXIV. AMONG THE DOPPERS. Their Dress and Habits — Slavery — Opposed to the Missionaries — Their probable Errand — Hated by the Blacks — Conservative — Bad Farmers in a splendid Land — The Patriarch — A Morning Visit — Our Conversation — Suspicions of my Object in TraveUing — Why not be a Dopper P — Offer to provide a Frou for me — The Bible — Primitive Notions about the Sun — Cornered— A High priced Horse — Crocodile-Shooting — An Elephant Hunt — My Noble Steed — The poor Brute's Wounds and Sores — Wakes up at the Sound of War — The Chase begun — We come upon the Enemy — Charge — I bring down one Cow — And help a Hunter to bring down another Cow — Cruelty of kUUng Cow- Elephants — Baked Elephant's Foot — I leave the Doppers — Can Man quit the Civilised World ? — A Fit of the Blues — On the March again. The Boers I am surrounded by aU belong to a religious sect caUed "Doppers." Their dress is a short single- breasted coat, trousers very loose, and peculiar-shaped, broad-brimmed hats. They consider themselves to be the chosen people of God, and are stUl in search of the promised land, which they profess to believe exists farther north in the interior of Africa. The heathen, they say, have been given them as a heritage, so they are slave -owners. They are brave and fearless, con stantly carrying on war against one or other of the native tribes ; and when actually engaged in hostUities, spare neither sex, but carry off the young children to be reared as bondsmen. They are hard masters, not sparing the lash, and exacting for the food their folks aret constant and severe manual labour. No kind look or even word here cheers the slave's s2 276 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. task, for no bond of sympathy exists between the Dopper and the black man. His horse he takes plea sure in, his cattle he is proud of, but a heathen merits not a thought. The missionaries they are particularly opposed to, because of their calling, and have on more than one occasion sacked their habitations, and appro priated or destroyed their property. As their sole support is the produce of their flocks and game, they have become expert hunters and fearless horsemen. What their errand is here it would be difficult to say, although they profess to be trecking to Ovampo Land, north of Damara Land ; but this I believe a subterfuge to obtain possession, through the right of occupation, of the rich bottom-lands on the north and west side of the Limpopo. The country where they are outspanned belongs to Kama, King of the Bechuana ; in fact, his dominions commenced from the moment we crossed the Notawaney. The black population of these parts loAre not the Boers, but hate and dread the Doppers ; so it is not at all unlikely there will be blood shed before they are dispossessed, or have established themselves firmly in their new locality. There is no doubt that beautiful farms might be made aU along this river's margin, if irrigation Avere introduced — farms that would rival any in the habitable earth. But the Doppers are not the people to cul tivate them as they would require to be, for they are opposed to aU new inventions, mechanical contri vances, &c, that were not known or used by their ancestors ; and to raise water artificially, build dams, form canals — all necessary to irrigation — are what they simply would not do. VISIT TO THE PATRIARCHAL DOPPER. 277 The old man who delivered the address and offered up prayer last night is a fine specimen of the genus homo. Over six feet in height, well-formed, and straight as a lath, Avith a great profusion of white beard and hair, he speaks sufficient Enghsh to be intelligible, and is remarkable among his comrades for cleanliness. I went over in the morning to pay him a visit. He . was seated on a chair, shaving down strips of giraffe hide for wagon-Avhips ; underneath his foot was a yoke- key, on which he constantly stropped his knife. At his task he Avas eridently an expert, for the keen knife in his hands shaved off the edges with the precision of a plane. His granddaughter, a bonnie blooming lass of fifteen, brought me a chair and set it down close to the old man's, Avho expressed himself particularly pleased at my Aisit. Again the young lady returned, and pre sented both of us Avith a pipe, already carefully filled with tobacco ; on the top of the bowl of each was a glowing coal. Several large trees grew near, affording a grateful shade, for the sun was commencing to get warm. Surmising that I Avas in for a long pow-wow, I resolved to make a virtue of necessity, and submit. The surroundings were" very pretty — -numerous bril liantly-painted wagons — -for such the Boer loves — vrith snow-white tents, several horses picketed close by, cattle, goats, and sheep a little way off ; while quite a number of large yellow dogs walked restlessly about to avoid the persecuting flies. A tame wildebeest and young quagga were so much at home that they became a bore, and although driven by the children repeatedly off, returned in a few minutes to nibble the edge of your cap, or besmear your shoulder with the saliva that hung from their lips. 278 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. The old man informed me that he knew of my coming, and, like his predecessors, wished to know what a soldier wanted in this country. I told him my object was to hunt, become conversant with the people, and see the land. " Yes, to see the country, and bring back the red- coated soldiers to take possession of it. You English men did this in the old Colony, in Natal, and now they are coming here," he said. " No, you are quite mistaken ; I have no such object. The people of, my country have not the slightest idea that I am here. I am " and here I hesitated, for what I was going to say struck me with a peculiar force — " I am a wanderer." " A wanderer," he rejoined. " That means one without a home, without frow or kinderkins, without friends?" " Just so." " And how is this ? You are not old, you are strong and brave, and you have a wagon and cattle, and plenty of guns and ammunition. Get a frow, before it is too late to raise heirs to your name; and if you do as I tell you, as you are a man skilled in war, come with us to Ovampo Land, where we vrill make a new home, and wax rich in our old age." In joke, I asked him where the wife was to be found. His reply was given vrithout hesitation. "My granddaughter is old enough to marry. She is like what my frow was at her age, both in appearance and ways — and the Great Father knows she was a good wife ;" and the old man heaved a sigh. " Is your wife dead?" " Gone to the promised land to await my coming." INVITED TO BECOME A DOPPER. 279 Poor old fellow ! This was spoken so earnestly, so full of feeling, that I felt the loss of his partner had been a great and lasting sorrow. And the pretty little girl, quite unconscious that she had been offered in marriage, came in chUdlike simplicity and placed a stool at her grandfather's feet, busied herself replenishing his pipe, after accomplishing which she performed the same office for myself. "WUl you go with us to the new home we are about to make? You say you have no home, and we will give you one. You have no people, you shall be of us. You are also learned, you can read and write, and know foreign lands : when I am called away you would be the father of the folk." " How can I answer now? I must think the matter over," I responded. And the pretty ghl looked up in my face with a pleading coaxing glance, so that I felt it necessary to brace myself, pull myself together, for past experience told me that I never could successfully face a battery composed of woman's eyes. Again the old man started the conversation. " You read ' the book ' (Bible), and believe it the same as we do." " Yes ; it is a wonderful book. And so, too, is the world we live in ; only to think that it is not only revolving on its axis " — here the old man seemed puzzled, so, to simplify matters, I added — " but going round the sun." " Going round the sun ! " exclaimed the old gentle man. " No ; this world stands stiU, and the sun goes round the earth. I would have thought your learning and ' the book ' would have taught you different." I had evidently faUen very much in his estimation. 280 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " The book ! " I cried out ; " where does it teach what you say ? I read it often, have read it from my chUdhood upwards, but I do not know where it teUs us what you say." " Did not Joshua command the sun to stand stUl ? If it had not being moving would this have been necessary ? " said my venerable friend, whUe a weU- satisfied smile on his countenance showed that he considered that I had nothing further to say. How ever, I must make an answer; it would not thus do to be beaten, and a happy thought struck me at the moment. " True, it is quite correct what you say ; you are well acquainted vrith the book. Joshua did command the sun to stand still, but we are not told, which we doubtlessly would have been, that he set it going again." The old gentleman pondered and wondered, but said nothing. I interrupted his reverie by shaking his hand and bidding him adieu. Among the good qualities these primitive people possess is honesty, for which they are noted far and Aride — doubtless one of their principal virtues. You may even Avith safety take their word about the merits of a horse or ox they have for sale. I fear, as a rule, so much cannot be done in similar transactions vrith our OAvn countrymen. I made an effort to buy a horse here : aU were for sale if a purchaser would give the price asked, but that was enormous. One bay I picked out with plenty of substance, and that of fair quality, nearly fifteen hands high, and aged, I rode and liked very much, but a hundred and thirty pounds were asked for him, with CROCODILE SHOOTING. 281 evidently no intention of abatement in the price. Of course, this animal would be guaranteed as saulted, and with fair luck you might make his value ten times over in ivory secured through his assistance ; but I hesitated to run the risk. I had further a hope that something cheaper might be procured at Bamanwatto. In the afternoon I went down to the river ; there I met two young Boers, who were shooting crocodUes, the reptiles having incurred their enmity by having lately carried off several goats and sheep. I remained with them for some time, and saw some very good shooting done ; one immense brute, quite sixteen feet long, although SArimming rapidly at the distance of fifty yards, was hit fair in the eye. It turned on its back a moment after as dead as dead could be. I attended prayers in the evening, and after worship was over, brought the old gentleman to sup vrith me ; he enjoyed his food, his pipe, and last, though not least, his soupje of MarteU's cognac. " Bass, Bass, a Boer man wants you," energetically called Umganey. Day was but commencing to break, and I was still asleep when thus disturbed. I hurriedly puUed on my pantaloons and boots, and came forth. With the assistance of the driArer I was able to make out the cause of the early risit. A drove of elephants had passed during the night, and the Boers wished me to accompany them in the hunt. I thanked my visitor for his courtesy, but explained that I had no horse. This had been anticipated, however, and a mount was at my service. Hurriedly swallowing my coffee, fiUing my pockets with rusk and beltong, buckling on a sharp pair of spurs, and 282 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. shouldering one of my eight-bore double -barrels, I went over to where the cavalcade were already mustering. My horse was pointed out ; it was already saddled, and in charge of a Kaffir, and truly was as wretched an antedilurian animal — all scored and cut, in fact, there did not appear to be a sound piece of hide on any portion of its body — as ever has been seen or ever vriU be. The thorns might have done much towards this dis figurement, the jambock more ; but there were several parallel scars across the rump that strongly whispered that master lion at some period or other had made a strong effort to jump this horse. My hosts evidently saw disappointment in my countenance, for they at once commenced to enumerate its wonderful qualities ; and while they enlarged on them I thought if it had new fore legs, new hind ones, and a new barrel, it might not be quite so bad. It was one of the " has beens," and an admirable specimen of that race ; still it was a horse, and without a horse I must defer at present having a shot at the elephants. I got upon its. back ; it fairly cringed under my weight. I dismounted and removed the saddle, and, oh, what a sore it had along the vertebrae ! I thought I would decline going, but then there were elephants to be shot, so I sent for one of my own saddles and a numnah, tightened up the girths, and remounted. Poor -wretch ! it did not give beneath me as much as before, but I wUl acknowledge it did yield a little. One thing I did not like, in fact very much disliked, was, that I should not be able to lead the hunt, and show off before the young Boers, in fact, teach them that an Englishman was quite their equal in handling horse and gun. But, dear me, what evil star shone on me, that I should be compelled to figure on CHASING THE ELEPHANTS. 283 such a Bosinante ? I was almost making up my mind to buy the bay horse for which a hundred and thirty pounds had been asked, when further anguish on the subject was stopped by our reaching the traU. A couple of Kaffirs led the Avay so as to prevent the spoor being lost ; but this was almost unnecessary, so distinct was the path the mighty beasts had made through the forest. It was erident from this, and their not having deviated to the right or left to feed, that they were in a hurry, and probably travelling from one haunt to another. Such a chase is generally a long one, not unfrequently an unsuccessful one ; but Fortune chose to smile favourably on us ; for, after about three hours' ride, the Kaffirs declared the game in sight. Not a word had been spoken for some time ; now ensued a hurried consultation ; when the programme decided upon was for all to approach as cautiously as possible till the elephants took the alarm, Avhen we were to charge, each hunter selecting his prey. For three hundred yards or more we silently stole through the forest in single file ; at length the leading horseman halted, and we wheeled into line. Over the underbrush towered the backs of a number of dark animals. Closer and closer to them we approached, when one of the elephants uttered a shrill note, and in an instant the herd was crashing through the timber, raising a tremendous dust, and sending rotten limbs of the brushwood flying far and -wide. The poor old horse, who had up to this moment been a regular slug, took the bit in his teeth, and tore along in pursuit as weU as the best of them. He needed no guiding — I only sat still and let him go. If the others 284 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. were after the elephants so was he ; and if his fore legs only kept him up, there was very little doubt that soon I would be afforded an occasion to use my gun. A big tusker, of course, I wanted, but such I could not see ; so, to rectify the deficiency, singled out the largest ' animal in the herd, and made a dash to get alongside of it. In this I was successful, for the old nag knew Ms work like a book, and required no forcing. Holding the gun at arm's length I fired. The heavy charge nearly sprung it out of my hands ; but the elephant staggered, recovered itself, staggered again, and then came to a dead stop. With the report of the gun the veteran charger had sheered off to the left, expecting pursuit, and not getting it he easily puUed up, so I turned him round again so as to renew the contest. The poor stricken beast Avas evidently very sick — blood flowed from its mouth and trunk. It seemed desirous of charging, but was without the power to do it ; so I jumped off my horse, went within fifteen yards, and fired at the space between the ear and eye. With a crush the poor thing fell, struggled violently to regain its feet, rolled over upon its side, and yielded up life. It was a cow in the prime of life, but its tusks did not exceed eight or nine pounds in weight. I now became cognisant that a heavy fusilade was going on to my left ; I, in consequence, rode in that direction, when I overtook a Boer having quite a Hvely time vrith a wounded one — she charged so persistently and fiercely that he was as often the pursued as pursuer ; so I left my horse, watched my chance, and, whUe she was turning round to keep her front to her first antagonist, put two bullets in her side, a foot or OUR UNFORTUNATE VICTIMS. 285 so behind the shoulder-blade. Attempting to charge, she fell upon her head, burying both tusks in the ground, and died, game to the last with her front to the enemy. The action was short, sharp, and decisive, I may say brilliant, the only drawback being that both were cows. I admit that shooting cow-elephants requires some apology— in my ardour I did not think of sex, and Avas not aware that the animal I had killed was a female till after its death ; in delivering the coup-de-chasse to the last, it Avas so severely wounded before I came up that it could not have survived. It certainly was an unlucky entry into elephant-hunting in Africa to commence by killing cows. Noav the chase was over the old horse was as great a slug as before, and it required no ordinary amount of care and attention to keep him on his limbs. How ever, he took me home in safety, and I parted with him with only one regret, and that was that he was not at least tAventy years younger. Next morning we had baked elephant's foot : it was one mass of gelatine, excellently flavoured, and, I am certain, very sustaining. I had done so weU in the hunt, in fact distinguished myself, that I was regarded by aU vrith eyes of great approval ; the old warrior did not hesitate to teU me so, and was so patronising that I commenced to fear that he would again broach the matrimonial scheme. The Httle maid brought me tAvice a day an ample supply of clotted milk — an admirable dish when you get ac customed to it — and from her simplicity of manner it was evident she knew nothing of the matter. During the stay of these Boers in this locality they 286 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. have kUled eleven elephants, fourteen lions, beside giraffes, and innumerable antelopes. Soon after noon on the third day I trecked from here, amid a crowd assembled to see me off, and numerous were the good wishes showered upon my head by these primitive people, nor was it without regret I left them ; for I commenced to think that a wanderer like myself might do worse than pitch his tent among such simple-hearted, kindly folks. But can one situated as I am give up civilisation for ever ? It is doubtful ; more than that — improbable. I have tried it. How often have I left England firmly resolved never to return ? Yet again, and again, and again I find myself back, threading the old familiar streets, and gazing in wonder at the changes the towns and cities have gone through. I often think that the cause of this is I have travelled too much, and that I seek fOr a country that never wiU be found — namely, where all that is attractive of every climate is combined in one. Again, I am not so young as I was ; and where are the youthful hearts and merry faces that stood by me in the Crimea, that sailed Avith me over the Indian Ocean, that marched by my side over the flat steppes of China ? where are they ? Gone to the spirit land, and I am left, a wanderer on the earth. Would that fate had decreed otherwise ! But it is too late, too late ; and on, on I must drift with the tide till it lands me— where ? If we could foretell the future, I would go and see the spot. " Fortune has frowned on iis ! fate is adverse to us! luck against us!" Ave cry out; but believe me, reader, this is an error — we make our own destiny. Partings, as a rule, are unpleasant, and my late one seems tc have given me a heavy attack of the blues ; as ¦ AN UNPLEASANT PROSPECT. 287 I have not time to spare for such a fashionable com plaint, I will return to the velt near the tropic of Capricorn, Africa. For two miles from the river the track was hard, and therefore conducive to quick travelling, after that we got into heavy sand, sufficient to break a bullock's heart ; but my cattle were strong and well-rested, and toiled manfuUy through, so that we reached our out spanning-place before the sun went down. Lions were again about the wagon all night, so that I got no sleep, and in the morning I did not feel very fit for travelling ; ' but go we must, for, till we reach Soshong, the capital of Bamanwatto, there are fifty mUes before us, without a drop of water. CHAPTEB XXV. KAMA, KING OF THE BECHUANAS. Sand, Sand, Sand ! — A Howling Waste — My poor Cattle suffer — A Wretched Family of Bushmen — Novel Mode of obtaining Water — Fearful Condition of the Bush-People — Their SkiU and Courage in Hunting — Wild Dogs — Magnificent Animals — How they Hunt — Attack the Lion sometimes — One of my Cattle Missing — Insolence of my Driver — A Bandy-legged Runner — Fruitless Chase — My Driver returns — A Salt-Pan — Curious Effect by Moon- Ught — The Kerne, or WUd Water-Melon — Scavenger Beetle — The Macalaca kUls Something at last — The Capital of Bamanwatto in the Distance — We reach Soshong — The Inhabitants — Welcomed — My poor Cattle — Stuck in a dry River-bed — Soshong — The Kloof Community — Huts — Compassed — A Favourite Post of Observation — The " Ladies " — Riding — Oxen — Their Load — The Missionaries' Houses — The European Community — Defence of the Spring — The High-roads of Commerce — The Merchants — Suburb of Soshong — Population — King Kama — Sketch of his Career — Bechuana Law of Succession — A Romance. Sand, sand, sand, so deep that the felloes of the wheels are entirely covered, the brush short and scant, the few trees very dwarfed, and the surface of the soil rolling — such are the characteristics of the country. No game, no birds, naught cheers the scene — it is a land of desolation, of waste, that nothing can ever be done to improve, that wiU never render food for the wild animals, let alone for man. It is a barrier to progression north wards that no art can remove, no skiU overcome, no ingenuity bridge. Such is the south-eastern end of the Kalahari, the Great Thirst Land. I grieve for my poor cattle ; fain would I let them rest, but cannot, so the whip has to be kept employed, or we should never traverse this inhospitable region. A WRETCHED FAMILY PARTY. 289 To lighten the load as much as possible, I walk ; to learn the mysteries of bullock-driving, I assist the driver; to kill ennui, to drown thought, to prevent regrets at loss of companionship, I seek occupation. This howling waste may possibly act as a barrier to prevent the amalgamation of races, or a cordon to stop the belli gerent tribes of the south harassing with constant wars the more effeminate natives of the tropics. Just before outspanning at noon, we overtook a most wretched famUy party of bushmen. When they first perceived us, they appeared disposed to run away ; but whether our manner was reassuring, or the number of black attendants that accompanied me gave them confidence, they stood by the road waiting our approach. Father, mother, and two little bits of bairns, not pos sessing enough clothing among them to make one respectable garment, and so thin and withered about the limbs, were the components of this family party. The man was armed with a small bow and a dozen tiny arrows, the points of which were poisoned with the milky juice of the Euphorbia arbor escens. This plant grows abundantly about these parts, and is an exceedingly deadly poison. The wife carried on her .back three or four ostrich eggs, doubtless filled with water, for their orifices were closed with a bunch of grass, their stock of liquid most probably having been obtained from sucking-holes in the vicinity. To those unacquainted with this method of obtaining water, an explanation might be interesting. A hole is made in sand showing evidence of moistness, into which is pushed a tube with a quantity of grass attached to its end. This forms a vacuum for the water to collect in, when it is raised to the surface, and ultimately into T 290 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the mouth of the sucker, after which it is most adroitly squirted into an ostrich sheU. Of course no European, except in extremis, would drink fluid thus treated. StiU, I knew a noble colonel, who can frequently be seen in " the Bow " during the season, who was only too glad to obtain a supply of water thus procured. The callosities upon these poor creatures' bodies were fearful to look at : they doubtlessly are formed from lying upon the hard ground, without any intermediate substance to shield them from its irregularities. You should have seen the comical expression of delight in the two youngsters' faces when I handed each a large stick of beltong ! A good-sized piece of wildebeest, and a gallon and a half of cold mealy-meal porridge, gladdened the old people, who at once commenced to light a fire and make- themselves comfortable. It is really surprising how these people manage to exist;- that they are not devoured by wild animals seems also extraordinary, for their home is in their haunts, yet they take no precautions for their safety. If the truth were known, doubtless a very great number die from their attacks. These Kalahari bush-people are the most persevering and courageous hunters : once on the traU of game, they never leave it tUl they kUl ; and their skiU in stalking cannot be surpassed. Even the ostrich, the wariest of all game, faUs before their tiny poisoned arrows. In fact, but for the Bushmen, the supply of wild ostrich feathers would be very scant indeed. I had just succeeded in making these wanderers comfortable for the time being, when the big Macalaca lad came to me. His musket was in his hand, and his WILD DOGS. 291 face wore a grave expression. Pointing with his hand, he uttered the magic word, " Taoiol " the Bechuana for lion. Taking my double gun, I foUowed him ; but although he endeavoured to point out something, for the life of me I could not see it. Indicating by gestures that he wished me to sit down, I did so, and he took a place by my side. There was some scrub between us where the lion was supposed to be, and if there were an animal there it could not. leave its retreat without offering a shot. For a quarter of an hour we kept guard, and our inactivity began to become irksome, when first one, then a second specimen of wUd dog came forth, and cooUy stared at us. Unless they had been lying at length on the ground, it appeared im possible that they could have remained so long un seen. Did I shoot at them ? I hear asked. No, not for the world. They were such grand animals, such thorough-looking sportsmen, that I gazed at them in sUent admiration, wishing I were the possessor of both. They must have stood nearly thirty inches at the shoulder, looked like a cross between a greyhound and mastiff, and were a beautiful rich fawn-colour. After surveying me for a couple of minutes, they walked coolly off, as if the presence of man were to them a. matter of the most perfect indifference. A pack of these wUd dogs, consisting of forty or fifty members, is known to exist within a few miles of this locality. They have frequently been seen hunting, and the Boers whom I so. lately left have suffered severely from their depredations. It is reported that even the lion occasionally is assailed by them and kiUed. When these encounters take place, they generally originate t 2 292 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. through the dogs trying to drive the king of beasts off some prey he has captured. From what I could learn, they give tongue when hunting, and the pack run very close together when in chase. I yoked the cattle at half -past two, and at three' I discovered that one of the oxen was missing. The animal in question had for some time been UI, and the Boers pronounced its ailment lung-sickness. In con sequence, I had ordered the driver to pay particular attention that it was kept in front of the wagon, as I knew, if it were allowed to straggle behind, it would probably be left to its fate and reported to me as dead. On questioning the driver Avhere the ox was, he coolly told me, " Dead." Why had the circumstance not been reported to me before, so that I might have seen, the carcase ? I asked quietly. " Didn't know, and didn't care " — Arith a few choice Hottentot expressions, was the answer I got. For a time this fellow had been so insolent that I had resolved on the first good occasion to give him a severe pommeling, and see the effect it would have on his future conduct ; so, without an instant's delay, I rushed at him. He dropped his whip, and artfully doubled under my arm. Having thus cleverly escaped me, I started in pursuit ; but although the wretch was bandy-legged, he could run like an antelope, so, breath less, and in anything but an amiable frame of mind, I gave up the chase ; and there was nothing for it but for me to take the whip and drive myself. This was the more annoying as there was scarcely any perceptible track, and the sand Avas fearfully heavy. The rascal disappeared, going in the direction of our yesterday's encampment ; this I supposed to be a ruse to frighten CHANGE IN THE SCENERY. 293 me. But in it he was much mistaken, for all his valu ables were on the wagon, and I knew that he prized them too highly to forfeit them thus. That evening's was a most fatiguing journey, and it was some time after dark before the cattle were un yoked. About half-past ten at night I had them put in again, and lo ! and behold, the driver was there to assist. I said not a word about our past difference, but allowed hhri to go about his work as if nothing had happened. At half-past one we were abreast of a large salt-pan. The moon at the time was shining beautifully bright, and this immense plane, for it extended over several hundred acres, looked like an enormous field covered with snow. At first I could not believe my eyes, and actually walked down into it to assure myself that I was not mistaken. It is composed probably of the "nitrate of lime,' and the crust is nearly half an inch thick. Timber again becomes more abundant, and here I first saw that wonderful and valuable plant, the kerne (Cucumis kqfflr), or wild water-melon. Farther westward it is found in great quantities, even sufficiently so to water the traveUers' cattle with their juice. Grass is also becoming more plentiful, but it is not the grass upon the velt to the south. In fact, this much resembles the bunch grass of the buffalo plains of North America, for it grows in large tufts, with a wide space of sand between each plant. We now outspanned till day break, but at the first indication of light in the east got again under way. With the advance of day I could note that the country was become really weU-wooded and very park-like. Although I had seen the scavenger beetle the whole 294 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. way across the plains, they do not equal in size and number those found here. They are a curious insect, and most industriously prosecute their work, which is that of collecting the dung of cattle, &c, and forming it into a round mass about the size of a laAvn tennis ball. When this is accomplished they roll it off to a suitable place, where they bury it, after having deposited their larvae in its interior. The beetle when shoving its load over the ground does so with its head down. Soon after sunrise we passed through between two ridges of hiUs, covered with vegetation on their southern slopes, although they appeared an immense jumble of loose stone, and destitute of soil, trees were to be seen almost to their summit. Both these ridges, I should imagine, rose to an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet, and the formation is a reddish decayed sandstone. Here the Macalaca shot a hartebeest, or kama, the first thing I believe he has kiUed since the bullock fell before his gun. But although we have been progressing slowly we are still moving on, and at length the gap is passed, an immense plain opens before us, margined on one side by the Bamanwatto hills, on the other by the Kalahari Desert, or Great Thirst-Land, which does not terminate tiU the doons are reached that are bathed by the South Atlantic Ocean. A large white house, the go-down or hong of the principal traders in Soshong, marks the site of the town, which still must be ten or twelve miles off. However, there can be no halt now till we reach it, for the cattle are suffering terribly from want of water, and none can be obtained till we get there. In time we wind round the base of a very picturesque BY EFFORTS STRONG WE REACH SOSHONG. 295 rocky hill. Along its foot on the north side grow considerable quantities of mealies and Kaffir corn. Soon after we enter a track laid out between fences of Arithered mimosa and other thorny plants. Gardens of grain increase in number and width. At last one of the inhabitants is seen, then another, tUl quite a number are around us. They are all women, some nearly naked, aU very scantily clothed. They are well-formed, and although not pretty, look good-natured ; and, above all, they are polite, for not one fails to greet the soil- stained traveUers with their pretty expression of welcome, "Dumela." The sand was very heavy, and the treck was the most severe I had ever experienced. The poor cattle groaned, but could not beUow. Their eyes looked sad and plaintive, whUe the slow manner in which they lifted their feet told but too truly of the unwonted fatigue they had endured. I was not the freshest man in the world myself, and I felt convinced that I was one of the dirtiest, if the colour of my hands indicated what my face was hke. At length two or three cottages become visible, then a few Kaffir huts, afterwards more and more, tiU it becomes apparent that we are approaching a town of large population. The end of this portion of the journey is not yet ac: complished, a dry river-bed has to be crossed, and, alas ! in it we stick. For over half an hour we remain in this annoying position; a final effort is made, a number of Bechuanas put their shoulders to the wheels, and in a few minutes we are once more progressing. The next mile and a half is rapidly got over, for the cattle already smeU water, and I order the halt close adjoining Mr. Cruikshank's store. The driver threw down his whip, 296 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and gave a shout, Umganey did the same, so did the" followers, and I, no way loth, joined in. A most trying part of my journey is completed. Soshong, the capital of Bamanwatto, and the residence of the King of the Bechuana people, is situated on a flat covered with sand and stone, through the centre of which passes a dry river-bed. In the memory of some of the oldest inhabitants it was a constant stream ; but as in many other parts of South Africa, more especiaUy in the country bordering the Kalahari, it has gradually dried up. The hiUs which form the background of the town are very rugged, barren, covered with loose stone, and almost destitute of vegetation. Into this penetrates a kloof, forming almost an equilateral triangle, the base of which, drawing a line across the plain at its entrance, must be over a mile wide. Over this space in regular order are buUt the inhabitants' huts. As at Moiloes, in Marico, the community is divided into what we may call divisions, brigades, and regiments, each ruled over by inferior chiefs, who are answerable to the king for the conduct of their subordinates. The huts are all built alike, and have an upright circular waU of clay of the diameter of about twelve feet, and are roofed with reeds in the shape of an umbreUa-top. To each residence there is a little compound, enclosed by a thick hedge of cut thorn bushes. Not unfrequently also in the enclosure will be found a storehouse, a miniature copy of the larger residence. In these compounds the women do their domestic work, such as grinding corn, &c. At the top of the kloof is the spring that once supplied the dried-up river, and from which all water consumed in the town is derived. A sight that I frequently enjoyed was to take my THE INHABITANTS OF SOSHONG. 297 stand on the road at the upper end of the town, and watch the women or cattle going or returning from water. The ladies are very black and very scantily supplied with clothing, yet there is among them as much vanity as among their sex in civilised society. Beads are their favourite ornaments ; and some of them carry this passion to such an extent as to wear a kilt of them, constructed very much after the pattern of a " dress improver," and not unfrequently weighing upwards of twenty pounds. Besides this ornament, nearly all wear anklets and bracelets, and among the richer a caross of narwhal -jackal, or some of the numerous wild cat family, suspended from their shoulders. The well is the great gossiping-place ; and as water has to be fetched twice a day, no doubt much time is lost in tearing reputations to pieces, concocting marriages, and talking scandal. But as there is a road through the hills that passes close to the water, which leads out into vthe country beyond, numbers of men can also be seen. Generally, these are hunters returning from or going to distant parts of the northern country, some are on foot, others on the backs of buUocks. These riding - oxen become very docile, and are ridden Avithout a saddle, a piece of stick thrust through the cartilage of the nose, and to each end of which a string is tied, performs the duty of bridle. Nothing struck me as appearing so foreign and strange as men mounted on such chargers. It looks like applying the ox to a wrong use ; but this is a mistake, for they can perform long journeys so mounted, as well as carry a considerable additional load, and what they lack in speed they make up in sure-footedness. 298 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. If you had an opportunity of examining the freight of many of these saddled cattle, you would find it probably far more valuable than you , expected — fine ivory, worth even here eight and sixpence a pound; and blood ostrich-feathers, which the traders down on the flat wUl be glad to obtain for half' a sovereign apiece. Before reaching the spring, on high ground over looking the road, stand on the left Mr. Mackenzie's house, and on the right Mr. Hepburn's, both mission aries, and employed by the London Missionary Society. These buUdings are plain and unostentatious, but comfortable. Near the former stands a large white building, which does duty for church and school-house. But no vegetation ornaments the locality, water is too scarce and precious to be spared for irrigation, and Avithout it vegetable life Avill not flourish. At the back of both these gentlemen's houses the hills rise to the height of eight or nine hundred feet, and their slope, which is very steep, is covered with immense and apparently loose boulders, that the least shake of earthquake would send crashing into the vaUey beneath in one gigantic avalanche. In fact, a few years ago, a rock of great size fell ¦ from the summit, and now remains lodged where the path once ran. On the side of the viUage next the plain, the three or four traders, who compose the European community, have their cottages and stores, the principal of which is rather a large building surrounded with a strong up right picket fence. In this yard water has been obtained by sinking a well thirty feet; but in case Soshong should be attacked by an enemy, this, doubtless, would be filled up, for the strength of the MERCHANTS OF SOSHONG. 299 place consists in being able to keep an enemy from obtaining water. The Bechuanas are well aware of this, and as they are now fairly armed, and far from destitute of courage, it would take a very strong and very determined force to obtain possession of the spring, for it is flanked on both sides vrith ridges of high ground, so formed by nature that a hundred skirmishers would be able to keep a division at bay. From the town branch off the two great highroads of commerce — the one passing round the east end of the Bamanwatto Hills, goes to the Matabele country, and the districts adjoining the Zambesi; the other, foUowing the west face of the hills, leads to Lake N'gami, the Zouga and Linyanti districts. But the whole trade of these immense countries is in the hands of five or six 'people, who frequently are absent two and even three years, and from the date of their departure till their return no one knows whether they still live or not. Their life is a hazardous one ; unfriendly natives, savage beasts, venomous reptiles, and malignant fevers have all to be faced, so that if they do sometimes accomplish the task of making a little money, they have well earned it. About half a mile from Soshong proper is a similar . . kloof, which contains about half the number of huts, and may be considered a suburb, the total population of the two being close upon 15,000 souls. Kama, meaning hartebeest, is king here ; he is the eldest son pf Sekomi, who ruled this land when Dr. Livingstone visited it. By Bechuana law the eldest son does not succeed his father, thus Kama would not now be monarch but for the effeteness of his brother and the vacillating, weak policy of old Sekomi previous to his 300 , THE GREAT THIRST LAND. death. Bomances may occur in Europe — men there may play for crowns and win or lose them, but they cannot exceed the romance attached to the life of the present Bechuana king. It would occupy too much space to enter into all the particulars, but a short sketch of his career may interest. When quite a lad his father became jealous of his popularity, and attempted to take his life, but being providentially warned, he eluded those employed to assassinate him. He then called his regiment together (for all children born in a town in the same year as a prince become members of the regiment which the royal child at maturity commands. All these, privates and chiefs, go through the ceremonies attached to circum cision at one time, and this is supposed to bind them firmly together for good or bad) and asked them to follow him, and they did so to a man. With his numerous attendants he travelled away north-west, to the Lake and Mababe districts, where they lived by the chase, and by degrees amassed considerable wealth in ostrich- feathers and ivory. But old Sekomi, through his senility, had got his country into war with the formidable Matabeles, who, even now in their fights, fire their guns, and, throwing them away, rush in upon their enemies with the assegai. Everything seemed to go against the Bechuana cause ; wherever they met the enemy they were Aranquished, so that at length Soshong was threatened, and the old king was at his wit's end. At length, although very distasteful to him, he thought of sending for Kama, and he did so. Insulted, injured, and even his life sought for, the brave young man at once responded, marched day and night across the Kalahari Desert, the Great HOW KAMA BECAME KING. 301 Thirst Land, and arrived at his father's home just in time to save the capital. An engagement was fought ; the Bechuanas, led by their pet prince (I do not mean that he sat on a horse on a hill and witnessed his men struggling through the battle, but that he was actually at their head), attacked the Matabeles, and utterly drove them over the face of the country. For a time he was reinstated, but it was only for a time ; Kamani, the younger brother, had the ear of the old king, and again Kama's destruction was plotted. His followers learned this and told him of it, and a second time he retired, leaving the reins of government in the hands of his father and his junior brother, Kamani. Again the Bechuana country was threatened ; again Kama came to its relief, and successfully did what he had done before. At length the old king died, and Kamani reigned in his stead. Still Soshong did not prosper ; Kama was again called upon to save it, when he deposed his brother and now is sovereign. After he had been established as monarch, Kamani, who had taken refuge with SecheUe, tried to revolu tionise the country, but failed, and took shelter in one of the traders' houses. Here he was surrounded, and doubtless would have been killed; but he escaped through a window, when the first man he met was Kama, who, dismounting from his horse, assisted his brother on its back, and advised him to fly, for, although king, he could not control the feelings of animosity of his people against one who was at once unpopular, and had constantly brought the country into disgrace. CHAPTEB XXVI. WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT SOSHONG. A Standing Invitation — A Delightful Evening — A Life of True Religion— Mr. Mackenzie — Mr. Hepburn — Invited to Outspan at Mr. Mackenzie's — My Host's Little Girl — Introduced to King Kama — His Personal Appearance and Manners — Permits me to Hunt — Sunday in Soshong — Worship — An Impressive Day — The Life of a Missionary — How the Bechuanas meet with Accident — An Amusing Experience on Mr. Hepburn's part — Inquiring for Water, he finds a Lion and Lioness (asleep) — Hunters boxed up in a Kraal — On .the- Look-out for the Imprisoning Lion — Putting an End to his Existence — Sneers of Stay-at-home Sportsmen — A Vindication of Gordon Cumming — Among the Traders at Soshong — CharUe , a Character — An Unknown arrives — Personal Appearance of the Mysterious Individual:— Charlie tells a Story in his best Style — But is interrupted by a regular "Bom-bom " — The " Bom-bom "-Ejaculator's Nose is pulled — The Outrage stopped — Explana tion of the Strange Conduct — Charlie abstracts Roast Ducks — Found in the " Bom-bom " — Charlie abruptly disappears. Mr. Dawson, the representative of Mr. Cruikshanks, to whom I had a letter of introduction, came out and welcomed me. He had heard of my arrival in Marico, but did not believe I could reach Soshong alone. However, as I had succeeded, a standing invitation was given me to take my meals with him whenever so disposed. I soon managed to buy some water from a number of girls hovering about with large lotas on their heads, containing five or six gallons ; for each I paid a pannikin full of unground mealies. Having had a good wash, and put on clean gar ments, I went up to dehver a letter of introduction to FAITH AND WORKS. 303 the senior missionary, Mr. Mackenzie, and also, as he was postmaster, to obtain my letters. My reception was so kind and sincere that I commenced to think that hospitality here exceeded that of all other parts of the earth. However, after enjoying my noon-day meal with my new friend, I returned to the wagon to look after sundry matters that required attention. In the evening Mr. Mackenzie, accompanied by Mr. Hepburn, paid me a visit, and we had a long and most delightful chat about our native lands. This pleasure was very great to me, and doubtless it must have been the same to them, for what a life of seclusion is theirs, buried almost in a living tomb ! And all this is endured by these honest, toUing, good men, to carry the gospel. to the heathen, and teach its admirable precepts. In both of them I recognised persons carried away by no schisms or creeds, but who exactly corresponded with the couplet — " For forms and creeds let fools and zealots fight, He scarcely can be wrong whose heart is in the right." And in my belief this fact, so vigorously expressed, forms the essence of true religion. I parted with them early, as they had to attend school that night ; but I looked forward to often meeting them again before I left the scene of their labour. Mr. Mackenzie is a tall, square-buUt man, about five feet eleven in height, fair in complexion, genial in- countenance, with great strength of character stamped on his brow, and an unmistakable Highlander, speaking the Enghsh language with wonderful purity and in tonation. Mr. Hepburn is taUer but slighter, a Northumberland man I should think, with great energy 304 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and resolution, and gifted with more than ordinary eloquence. The twain are a host in themselves ; and while our country is represented by men of their type it is bound to be honoured, in whatever part of the earth their labours are carried on. I discharged my driver, put Umganey in charge, and dined with Mr. Dawson. Several of the community, I may say aU of them, dropped in after dinner, so I was introduced, and found them a most inteUigent, gentle manly lot of people. It was late, or rather early, when I walked across the open to my wagon; aU had so readily become familiar that I might have been in England had not the simpering giggle of the jackal, and the mournful protracted note of the hyaena awoke the stiUness of the night. Next day, according to promise, I paid both Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hepburn a visit. My reception was most cordial, and Soshong, AAdth aU its ugliness of barren rocks and unattractive dweUings, became established in my mind as quite a pleasant spot. The former gentleman invited me to come up to his house and there outspan, while my cattle would be taken care of by his herd, and pasture along vrith his oavu drove. This was too good an offer to be refused, as I knew Ackerman would be leading all his too-wUling comrades into every mealy garden in the district. But I had no driver I explained. " Oh, that is nothing ; I will send mine ; " and his was sent forthwith. In a couple of hours afterwards the old familiar wagon was outspanned within twenty yards of his haU door. It was arranged between us that Mr. Mackenzie should introduce me to the young King on the morrow, the very thing I most desired. KING KAMA. 305 When I went to bed that night, having supped with my new friend, and accepted his kind invitation to be his guest during my stay, I slept the sleep that the invalid craves for, and makes a person in health fit for aught he may be caUed upon to perform on the coming day. In the morning my host's charming little daughter, a young lady of eleven years, brought me a cup of tea. When I saw her bonnie bright face, fair hair, and blue eyes, I could scarce believe myself in the heart of Africa. At eight we breakfasted, and at nine went down to the kotla to visit the young King. We found him seated on a chair, with a dozen of his head men around him, dispensing justice. As soon as the case was settled that he was then hearing, he came forward in the most affable manner, and shook hands with both of us. He deserves a description, and, as nothing can be said but in his favour, it gives me pleasure to write it. In height he stands about five feet eleven, is very slim, of an excellent figure, and as upright as if he had been drilled ; his head he carries very erect, and his features are small but regular, vrith a very pleasant expression of countenance, and a very inteUigent eye. His hands and feet are remarkably small and well- formed, the former like a lady's, on account of the perfect nails and softness of the skin. In manner he is thoroughly self-possessed, very quiet, and neither obtrusive nor bashful. He dresses in European clothes made out of moleskin, and is scrupulously neat and tidy. He had heard of my intended visit, and gave me a most cordial welcome. My having been in the army was, he said, a bond of sympathy between us, for a brave man deserves the respect even of his enemy. u 306 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Kama, although black, I found in every respect a gentleman — in appearance excessively weU-bred, and in , his language, as interpreted by Mr. Mackenzie, courteous and considerate. From the date of our interview we became better and better friends, for daily he paid me a visit ; and if he obtained any information from me, I know I derived much from him, especially on the natural history of his extensive domains, of which he was a perfect proficient, often causing me to smile at the abUity with which he could delineate peculiar characteristics of various animals. When the subject was broached about my obtaining permission to hunt in his country, he quietly informed me that he had made up his mind to give that privilege to no traders or Boers, but that for a friend of Mr. Mackenzie's, a soldier, and one who did not desire to exterminate the game, he would stretch a point, and therefore I should have Massara velt, his OAvn hunting- ground, and that he would send a chief of that people with me to collect the bushmen on my route. Sunday came round in course of time, and I could have knoAvn the day from all others, by the air of rest that lay over Soshong. AU was as peaceful as the viUage homes we knew in our youth on such occasions. Missionary labour may be slow in telling in South Africa, especially among the tribes so far to the north, but when our religion is represented by such pains taking, enduring men as Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hep burn, it is bound to succeed in the end. I shall never forget my Sunday afternoon at Soshong. Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hepburn had held service among the natives in the morning, but intended having prayers and a short discourse at three o'clock in A SOLEMN SUNDAY. 307 their own house, for those Europeans who chose to come. Not one of them did not come ; and in the little parlour where worship was held, the presence of the Almighty might almost have been felt. In my early life I had regarded religion lightly, but when I looked upon half a dozen stalwart men, accustomed to every hardship and danger of life, our worthy pastor's chUdren, and a few servants, giving their whole soul to wnat they were engaged in, I more forcibly felt than ever I did before, that there was a great God above us — One who merited our adoration and our love. The prayer was earnest, and such as could have been desired — the address was strictly applicable to the occasion — there was no flowery language, there were no marveUous sinriles ; it was exactly, what was wanted, and brought peace to the listener's heart. That was the most solemn Sunday I ever passed. No cant or hypocrisy was here — -what I heard was an exhortation from an earnest, true, reflecting man, endea vouring to make his feUow-creatures feel the depth and height of religion, and the consolation that they could derive from it, although so far in a heathen land. As I harve felt after visiting a graveyard or after visiting a church, so I felt when I left that room — that we ought not to live for our present hfe, but for that which is to come. When the hymn at the termination of the dis course was sung — " God is my Shepherd ; I shaU not want " — I again must repeat I was overcome with the conviction that I for one had been living for the present, and utterly regardless of the future — that great future in which all wUl be summoned to give account of their ste wardship. r;2 308 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. My poor mother used to say, " The prayer of the righteous availethmuch." Dear, good soul ! she believed it, and offered many a prayer for her recusant son. In youth I doubted it, in mature years I have pondered over it, but I now believe that she was right, and I was wrong. The life of a missionary here is a very hard one; their employment is incessant, and long after I retired to my wagon to sleep, Mr. Mackenzie was stiU con suming the midnight oil. In the morning they require to be up to look after their milk cows, presently school commences, then breakfast, after which a number of sick and wounded will be found assembled on the verandah, some with the most hideous sores possible to imagine. After each is duly treated, school again, and so on till dark. The Bechuanas are not an unhealthy people, but they meet with accidents in the chase, and in taking care of their cattle. At first I think they are prone to neglect their wounds, thus accounting for some of the ghastly sores they exhibit. My skill in medicine is not great, still it afforded me much pleasure to assist the worthy minister. That' he is regarded, that both are, with great love by the people, there is no doubt. The number of sincere converts they have made I cannot of course state, but they are unquestionably numerous ; and Kama, the king, I have no hesitation in saying, is as good a Christian, as upright and honourable a gentleman, as can be found in any community. A friend of mine remarked, after the king had left us, " What a pity it is that he is not white ! " Better, in my opinion, that he is as he is ; he can do far more good as a black man than he ever would be able to accomplish as a white. LET SLEEPING DOGS {AND LIONS) LIE. 309 Mr. Mackenzie told me an amusing story in reference to an incident that lately occurred to Mr. Hepburn. He and Mr. Mackenzie were both trecking from Kuruman together, where they had been to attend the meeting of members of various religious associations. Their cattle had been without water for a couple of days when they reached the Notawaney, the bed of which, to their grief, they found perfectly dry. Water must, if possible, be obtained, so they separated, the one going up the water-course, the other down, in the hope of finding a pool. Mr. Hepburn unsuccessfully had progressed about two miles when he spied some bushmen's huts ; to them he directed his steps, in hope of learning where the desired metsea (Bechuana for water) could be obtained. On reaching these human habita tions, he could see no one, so stooping low down to enable him to pass the diminutive doorway, he attempted to enter the nearest building. When he had almost accom plished the performance, in fact, got half way in, what was his surprise to observe, instead of human beings, a mature male and female lion sound asleep ! Slowly and silently he withdrew, and, as he was unarmed, made a rapid retreat to' the wagons. It was an awkward position to be placed in, and one that required an unlimited amount of presence of mind. Another excellent story was told me here. The persons principally interested were some English gentlemen, among whom was a Mr. Glynn, the son of some city magnate, and, as will be seen, possessed of more money than pluck. While on the velt shooting antelope they met another white hunter. As such meetings are very rare, and, I may add, very enjoyable, an arrangement was 310 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. made that the party of our countrymen should pay the hunters' camp a visit in the course of a day or two. However, days elapsed, and they did not come, thus then- intended host got uneasy, and resolved to seek them out, and learn what was the cause of their not keeping their promise. On arrival at their camping-place he found them outspanned in the centre of a most formidable kraal they had erected, but no oxen or horses within sight. On hailing his friends, and entering into conver sation vrith them, he learned that a day or two previously the lions had driven aU their cattle off, and that even now an old mannikin was watching them, thus preventing their going out, even in search of their beasts. Says the hunter, " You would not let a confounded lion keep you prisoned up, surely ? " " But he's an enormous brute." " He is, is he ; and where can he be found ? " inquired the visitor. " Oh, behind that bush ; there, that one about a hundred yards off. You cannot see him now, but he's there, and has been there since the cattle were driven off," was the answer. The hunter simply exclaimed, " I'll soon make him quit," and walked out of the kraal straight up to the bush in'question. Behind it was a fine old lion asleep, but who got roused up by the intruder's approach, and before the poor beast could do his yaAvning, stretching, and taking the kinks out of his back, he was bowled over with a two-ounce bullet through the head. The best hunter in South Africa, in his time, was the narrator of this deed. It has become popular to doubt the performances of Gordon Cumming. Lots of stick-in-the-mud, stay-at- GORDON CUMMING VINDICATED. 311 home sportsmen turn up their noses, and pronounce with the usual emphaticness characteristic of the breed, snob, " It's all an infernal he." In this, as in many other things, they show their ignorance, and because they have not the courage to rival his performances, profess to disbelieve that they ever were done. So frequently has this come under my attention at home, that I resolved to make particular inquiries at Soshong (the northern limit of his hunting-ground), into the truth of the most marvellous portions of his narra tive. In this there was no difficulty, for still many men lived who hunted Avith him, and were eye-witnesses to nearly all the great deeds of the mighty hunter, and every incident that I could call to mind was emphatically confirmed by them. One grey-haired old warrior said that " no white man ever come here like Gordon Cumming. When he heard the lion at night, the same as in the day, he went into the bush and shot him." This, doubtless, was exag geration; but that he was a great hunter, and one of the bravest of the brave, there can be no question. Life on the flat, or among the traders, I have not yet spoken of. To leave Soshong without doing so would be base ingratitude, for from one and all, from the highest to the lowest, I received the greatest kindness and hospitality. Moreover, to my surprise, I found them all educated men and gentlemen. True, there was one deserter, but many a gentleman has enlisted, and wiU, doubtless, to the end of time, and, as well as those more humbly born, sometimes desert. Charlie , for I will not give his fuU name, was a character. He was short, weU-made, and a consum mate fop in reference to dress : nobody had shirts with 312 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. such wonderful patterns on the bosom and collar as he had ; his wristbands came farther over his hands, and more of his throat was exposed than any one else's in the community. Without saying that he was a boaster, he talked loud and emphatically — in fact, was exceedingly pompous and self-satisfied. But a most amusing change came over him, and the Charlie that was, ceased to be the Charlie of the future. Up to the date of this alteration, not a soul knew that he was a deserter, but imagined that he was a person of position trading for amusement, to collect curiosities, or by both means helping to defray a portion of his expenses. One evening a stranger arrived at Soshong ; no one knew whence he came or whither he was going. He was on foot, and without baggage. But this mat tered not : the South African trader does not ask his guests their means ; it is sufficient that they are white men, and as white men they are treated. Thus, the traveller was welcomed at the first house he caUed at, and became for the time being a member of the establishment. Soon he was introduced, and as it was evident that he was a man of education, he received invitations to visit the various members of the smaU community. Now at Soshong exists a custom, doubtless not at all peculiar, of the residents assembling nightly at some house or other to play at cards, loo being generally the . game. As the unknovm was fond of cards, and apparently possessed plenty of money, he was a welcome guest at these little reunions. Thus stood the state of affairs when Charlie made his second appearance in the Capital of Bamanwatto. The unknown it would be well to describe. He "BOM-BOM." 313 stood about five feet four, but if he had been straightened out would have been much taller; in his neck was a knot or twist of some kind that forced him to carry his head very much on one side, while to raise his eyes so as to look you straight in the face was evidently a great effort. His skin was the colour of parchment, and shrivelled as much as if that material had been soaked in water and exposed to a tropical sun to dry. But with all these deformities, he was well-read, intelligent, and evidently possessed of considerable knowledge of the world. If his head had been set on uprightly — and it was a fine head, as heads go — he would not by any means have been a bad specimen of the human famUy. The first night he and Charlie met, the stranger appeared distrait, deep in thought, and looked as if he were pondering over the past, and endeavouring to recall some incident of it. The second evening that they came together, Charlie was in unusually good spirits, told his raciest stories with great gusto, and boasted of his past exploits with much force. But whenever he narrated anything wonderful, anything about the world he knew and the grand folk in it, the stranger would twist his head upwards, fix his expressionless eyes upon him, and exclaim emphatically, "Bom-bom !" For a length of time this extraordinary conduct on the part of the unknown was borne most patiently by him who had become the life and soul of the party; but when " bom-bom " became to be inevitably uttered every time he spoke, Charlie thought it was time to terminate such uncourteous, nay, rude, conduct. " What do you mean, sir, by interrupting me ?" "Bom-bom!" 314 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " I ask you, sir, what do you mean by such unbear able insolence?" " Bom-bom !" " If you don't cease that confounded ' bom-bom ' of yours, I'U pull your nose ! " " Bom-bom ! " But scarcely had the last word been uttered, than Charlie had the objectionable person by the nose, and doubtless would have proceeded to further violence had we not interfered. To say the least, it was plain that the unknoAvn was the offender, so an explanation of his unaccountable con duct was demanded, and, nothing loth, was furnished. "A year or two since I lived at King WiUiam's Town, in the Colony. The regiment then stationed there gave a supper and ball, and I was employed to furnish the comestibles. Among other dishes were some roast ducks : no person partook of them ; of this I am certain, for I watched carefully how things progressed, paying particular attention to the consumption of the food. " At length the ladies and officers rose and left the table ; the ducks, untouched, were there at that moment. The bandsmen, who had been uninterruptedly employed during the early part of the evening, were now sent into the room to get some ale. The moment they retired I missed several of my ducks ; and as nobody was there to purloin them but the bandsmen, I at once went and complained to the commanding officer, and he ordered his people to be searched. But who would stick a roast duck in his pocket ? Besides their some what greasy condition, they are not a convenient shape or size to secrete about a regimental coat. The band ' "BOM-BOM" AND ROAST DUCKS. 315 were aU searched, and of course to no purpose ; but the leader, who knew more about these matters than I did, laid hold of the ' bom-bom ' " (here Charlie wished to break loose and annihilate the speaker) " and turned it upside down. Out of it came my ducks. And that gentleman was the young man that played the ' bom- bom.'" Here Charlie made another effort to escape those who held him; however, in this he was foiled. So, as he could not vent his wrath in that manner, he bade the company good-night, earnestly vociferating as he departed that it was aU " a confounded lie." Next morning Charlie was discovered to have trecked to the Kaminyani, where he was an especial favourite. CHAPTEB XXVII. I LEAVE SOSHONG. The Cattle at Soshong — Lake BuHock — Galloway-like Ox — Kaffir Ox — Mashoona Ox — How many of the Cattle lose their Tails — Kama's Horses — Queer Sheep — How they Fight — Five Strange Children — My Mare Ruby — Powl — My Goat becomes Food for a Hysena — My Monkey returns to his Mates — My Mashoona and Macalaca People leave me — A Word for the Macalacas — My Departure from Soshong — Dilly-dallying of the Blacks — Kama's Cattle Kraals — Mapaney Tree — Bad Luck — Stuck in a River-bed — One of my Dogs Bolts — Birds charmed by a Snake — End of the Enchantment — Seruley Vley — I fall in with a German — We dine together — His Bullock's Stampede — The German loses a Saulted Horse — A Rest — A GUmpse at a Leopard — Greet and I part. A favourite habit of mine, as I have said before, is to take my place in front of the mission-house and watch the traffic up and down the road. There are other objects here deserving of observation besides the natives. First, then, I will mention the cattle. They are a queer mixed lot ; no herd in Europe would be found to contain such a variety ; they are of all colours, sizes, and shapes. On account of its size we will take the Lake bullock, an immense, ungainly, raw-boned creature; its bones are so prominent that it never appears fat. The head is coarse, and the dewlap very large ; but the most remarkable point about it is the horns, which are enormous, beyond. all conception in length, and stand out almost at right angles from the head. A pair I procured measured from tip to tip no less than nine feet two inches; and I have been assured that larger THE CATTLE IN SOSHONG. 317 are obtainable. For draft oxen, when the Great Thirst Land is hkely to be traversed, they far excel all other breeds. They principally come from Lake N'gami and the land of the Baeanana. Another ox, generally black, large, and massive, in its proportions, will also be observed. It looks much like the hornless cattle of Galloway, in Scotland, with the exception that it is not without horns, but these appear to hang down and swing and shake about perfectly loose with every movement of the animal. The ordinary Kaffir ox is abundantly represented, and is a type of animal very dissimilar from anything we have at home ; its body is short and compact, while its legs are long, its neck very short, and possesses an embryo hump on its withers. These must not be confused with the Zulus, which are remarkable for their symmetry and well-bred appearance— at least, acco/ding to our ideas. But the most beautiful of all is the Mashoona ox. In formation it is simply perfect ; the body is massive and square, the head and horns symmetry itself, while its feet and limbs are perfection. They are almost invariably black, are excellent workers, with good tempers. That no person has undertaken the task of importing a few specimens of this race for the sake of improving our home-breed surprises me very much. To do so might be tedious, but not necessarily costly. But last, though not least among this heterogeneous crowd, comes the Fatherland representative; doubtless in its veins is a large amount of European blood, but it is frequently perverse in its nature, and stands the want of water badly. It resembles an exaggerated Durham, and my Ackerman is not a bad sample of the breed. 318 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. The observer cannot help noticing how many of these cattle want their tails, some having been deprived of them so high up that only a rudimentary stump is left. There are two ways of accounting for this — hyaenas and vaccination, the tail being the part chosen for inoculating against lung-sickness. But, by Jove, do you hear that clatter ? It must be a troop of cavalry coming up the kloof; no, it is only their chargers. These are the horses of King Kama, nearly a hundred in number, and aU saulted. To one only skUled in English horseflesh they look rather a mixed lot, and so they are doubtlessly, still there is not one among them that has cost less than sixty pounds, many one hundred and twenty. Of one thing you may be certain, aU — Avith the exception of one or two antediluvians — can perform the most extraordinary journeys, although they know no other food than the grass of the velt. They are not fat nor yet lean, but in that kind of hard, serviceable condition a hunter gets towards the end of the season. But having done with the horses, let us take a glance at the goats and sheep. The former resemble what may be seen every day at home, but the sheep — well, unless you were informed of it, you might imagine that they belonged to a genus only lately discovered. They are generally white with black heads, very taU, thin stilt -like legs, very large pendulous ears, no horns, hair instead of wool, and their taU — about the size of a small pillow, and not unlike it in shape — hangs down nearly to the hocks, having a queer diminutive termina tion of periwinkle form. They are both obstinate and. pugnacious. I have watched two fight, which would probably have ultimately kiUed each other if they had MRS. MACKENZIE'S PROTEGES. 319 not been separated. The mutton they make when fat is excellent, equal, indeed, to any we have at home. But here comes an interesting party, although of a different race ; they are five in number, and the oldest is not over seven years of age ; they are black as black can be, vrith woolly, flat-sided heads, the gauntest of legs and arms, with very protruding stomachs. They are children from the vicinity of Lake N'gami, purloined from their homes by the Boers, and rescued by Mr. Mackenzie. They are weU fed noAV and taken care of, although it must cost good kind Mrs. Mackenzie no end of time and labour to keep them in clothes. They are as merry a lot of young urchins as can well be found. See, there are four of them harnessed to a log of wood in imitation of oxen, while the fifth acts as driver, copying to a nicety their every action, even the absurdly conceited airs these worthies assume. But for their protector having saved them they would never have known the joys of childhood. Yet some people say missionaries do no good ; before I came to the interior of South Africa I thought so too, but my belief now is exactly the reverse. Aided by Mr. Mackenzie, I have tried everywhere to get a horse, and the only animal obtainable is one of his own, a five-years-old mare, but unfortunately unbroken. This nag is saulted, bred here, her sire and dam being both saulted. But as a horse I must have, for without one there would be no use going farther up the country, I decided to buy her. As I only hunt to keep the pot going one mount wUl suffice, although I should much have liked to possess two. As Buby, for so I named her on account of her many exceUent qualities, figures in all my future exploits, a 320 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. description of her must be given. She is fourteen hands two inches high, weU made, has sound flat legs, powerful loins, and good barrel ; in fact, but for being more massive, she is a good imitation of an English racehorse. Her colour is a dark iron-grey. I expected to have some trouble in breaking her, but I found her as docile from the beginning as if she had been worked all her life. Her paces, which at first were somewhat rough, soon got made, and her mouth after two or three rides became perfect. At first I resolved to take her colt vrith me, but afterwards I changed my mind, as every panther and hyaena in the country through which I was about to pass would have deemed it a point of honour to kill it. Of course I anticipate some trouble in separating the mother and chUd, and it is rather bad to do so, but there is no alternative. The new driver I have obtained is caUed Powl — I suppose Boer for Paul — he has been at the Lake and other distant parts, bears an indifferent character, but, as he is the only one available, I am obliged, "when necessity drives, needs must." I vrished to replace my pets ; for my late poor goat got run over the night we trecked from the Limpopo. It happened in this way : — A hyaena made a dash at her, and she tried to rush under the wagon, and in doing so a hind wheel went over her loins, and broke her back. The monkey deserted when at the Boer encampment, and was seen by Umganey hail-fellow-well-met with a number of his species in a grove of trees on the river- bank. He was recognised by the belt round his waist. But at Soshong I was unable to make up these losses. Although there were plenty of monkeys and baboons frequently to be seen among the rocks behind Mr. MY NATIVE ATTENDANTS GO HOME. 321 Mackenzie's house, goats could be purchased, and I had not now spare people to drive an uneducated one along with the wagon till it got accustomed to follow. My Mashoona and Macalaca people remained three or four days after my arrival here; but, having thoroughly rested, and become strong through the enjoyment of an abundance of food, they had started for the north with aU their worldly goods upon their backs. I was very sorry to lose them, and, poor feUows ! they were in great grief when they bade me good-bye ; for a rumour had reached them that Lubengulo, king of the Matabele, was putting all their countrymen to death who had dared to visit the Diamond-fields without his express permission. When such was the case, one would imagine that they would have remained where they were, or retraced their steps ; and, although Mr. Mac kenzie and myself both pointed this out to them, so great was their love of home and relatives, that they preferred running the risk to remaining longer away. The Macalaca lad, the one who shot the ox, I should particularly have liked to keep with me ; but such was not to be ; the last I saw of them was their going up the kloof in single file. During the stay of these people with me — and they were constantly about the wagon — I never missed anything, although the Macalacas have the reputation of being addicted to pilfering. At length the day of departure arrived. The whole community had done their utmost to induce me not to proceed farther vrithout a companion, particularly as I did not speak the language of the people, but I would not be persuaded. What others had done I could do ; if not, it would not be for want of trying. So the wheels were greased, new straps and yoke-keys put in v 322 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. the place of old ones, and each ox furnished with a fresh reim. The cattle looked well when they were brought down ; once more they were mobbed, and soon after in the yoke. " Powl, why don't you start ? " I called out. " The guide not come yet, Bass," he answered. And in a moment after we were joined by a sturdy, taU Bechuana. The whip cracked, the well-knoAvn shout was given, and the wheels once more commenced to rumble on. Many shakes of the hand, many kindly parting words, and once more alone, I am riding behind my wagon, and not with the lightest heart, for I have bidden adieu to kind friends, been the means of sepa rating Buby from her child, and enter a terra incognita. For five miles we have to take the track pursued when coming into Bamanwatto, then it turns more to the east, and the road foUows the edge of the line of hiUs. The scenery is very pretty ; for the range is penetrated by numerous kloofs and glens, the sides of which are covered with trees, the camile-dorn being the most numerously represented. The path, however, is very rough and stony, so much so that no other vehicle except a Cape Avagon could possibly stand it. At seven miles from Soshong the road commences to turn more northerly, and soon after due north. As there is no water for thirty miles, we have to make as much way as we can before outspanning, to enable the cattle to drink at noon on the morrow. Being resolved to maintain from the commencement the discipline and routine intended to be pursued during the coming journey, I was kept up all night trying to lick matters into shape. Black people wiU always defer doing a thing to the last moment, and they evinced that such was now their KAMA'S CATTLE KRAALS. 323 intention ; but I would hsten to no argument or reason to the contrary, and kept at them till all was put right. It is no use locking the stable when the horse is gone ; and, although the driver and guide assured me no lions had been seen there for .five years, that was no reason why one might not turn up that very night. At Bamanwatto, not over a year or two back, Mr. Hepburn lent Kama's brother a milk cow. It was sent with the other town cattle to pasture round the gardens in the vicinity, a place constantly traversed by persons going to and fro, as well as by women at work, and where no one dreamt a. lion would be secreted ; but there the marauder was, and the reverend gentleman lost his cow. Like tigers in India, you never knoAv where they may be, past experience has taught me this, so I trust I shaU not be caught napping. About noon next day we reached the watering-place ; it was a large pool in the dry bed of a river. Not many years back water also constantly flowed here, but, as at Soshong, it is rapidly disappearing. If this dying away of streams goes on long, what will become of the country ultimately ? Here are Kama's chief cattle kraals, and the immense droves of oxen, sheep, and goats give one reason to believe that his Majesty the king is far from a poor man. The shepherds, who appeared to be very numerous, were all young men, and with one or two exceptions, perfectly naked. Their huts were only a thatching of straw, Arith the sides open. Each was armed Arith an assegai, which they not only use as a weapon, but apply to all the purposes for which other people would use knives. How they manage to run about through the thorns and briars I cannot under- v 2 324 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. stand, unless the hide of the black man is much thicker than that of his white brother. The mapaney-bush (Bauhinia) begins to become more prevalent. I noticed the natives plucking the leaves and licking them; this they do to remove a sweet gummy substance that is deposited there by an insect. The population have a queer superstition about the mapaney-tree — namely, that if you take shelter under it in a thunder-storm you are certain to get struck ; whereas the meruley-tree is so much loved by the lightning, that it vrill not hurt it or the person it shades. The temperature of the water out of curiosity I tested. It was 98° ; yet during the night the ther mometer stood at 67°, 'sufficiently cool to make the blankets quite enjoyable. We had a long and tedious treck next day ; in fact, it commenced with bad luck, and when that happens, you are likely to have a succession of it. First, we stuck in a dry river with Arery steep sides, and lost upwards of an hour before we got extricated; and in doing so not less than six or seven yoke-keys were smashed. Then a dog that I had bought at Soshong, and looked as if he would become useful, was aUowed to escape, when it turned on its heels and started for its old home. I attempted to catch it on horseback ; but although I overtook the brute, it dodged and turned so that I could not lay hold of it. It seemed exactly to understand what to do to baffle me ; down it would lie tiU I dismounted, but as soon as I reached the ground it was off again ; thus, very much disgusted, I gave up the pursuit, and wished the money I had paid for it were again in my pocket. Still we made progress, and the black basalt hills oi FOR THE BIRDS' SAKE I KILL THE SNAKE. 325 Bamanwatto were becoming gradually more and more indistinct. Soon after four, I was attracted by a great number of birds hovering about a tree and uttering most plaintive notes. Although I approached quite close to them, they seemed to have no fear of my presence. At length I discovered the cause of their alarm : a large green tree-snake was stretched at length on a limb, its head raised off the branch eight or nine inches, while its eyes fairly glowed with excitement. Again and again a bird would go up close to the reptile's head, and hover in front of it ; or another would dash wildly past it, almost brushing the enemy's nose with its wings. This certainly was a case of charming, for the birds seemed unable to go away ; and it was only a matter of time for one or other to get within the striking distance of the enemy. So I gave the snake a charge of shot, as the best means of preventing it from carrying out its purpose. The fangs I inspected ; but they did not appear to be poisonous. I should say it was of the species Bucephalus viridis. Half an hour before sunset we reached Seruley Vley — a pretty camping-ground as ever was looked at. The water covers about two acres, and on its bosom, on the far side, float innumerable water-lilies, on which run about several surgeon-birds, or jacana, their long toes giving them such a width of support that they do so with the greatest facility. At the north end of the vley, all the extremities of the drooping limbs have attached to them one of the strange but beautifuUy-constructed nests of the weaver-bird, placed there to avoid their enemies, the snakes. It was a party of this family that were flutter ing round the reptile lately kiUed. 326 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. On the eastern side of the vley is the camping or outspanning ground ; beside it stands a very large tree of the same species as the boomslang on the Limpopo. Here, underneath its shade, I took my seat, awaiting anxiously the arrival of what Umganey was preparing for dinner, when several wild ducks swept past, as if desirous of alighting. I consequently got my gun, and waited for a shot. Soon the opportunity offered, and I winged a bird, which, fluttering, feU among the taU reeds. Certainly the light was fading, but I searched so carefully that I thought I ought to find it. I called some of the dogs to assist me, but they refused to come. At length in disgust I gave the matter up. "Bass, dinner," had just sounded in my ears, when the distant crack of a whip was heard. "Another wagon, Bass, soon here," continued Umganey ; and, true enough, another wagon came up. Its owner, a German, came and greeted me. His name was Greet, and he was on his way to Bulwio, in Matabele Land. There is little standing on ceremony in this country, so he consented to become my guest. Dinner, therefore, was deferred till his cattle and horses were made snug for the night. Soon the buUocks drank, and afterwards were being mobbed previously to tying up, their owner and myself assisting, when the whole lot stampeded, knocked me down, and very nearly did the same to my companion. As soon as I could pick myself up I ran for my gun, for I knew that tired cattle would not act so unless there was some wild animal in their vicinity; but I saw nothing. After a great deal of trouble the scared beasts were secured and tied to their yokes, and we passed a quiet and agreeable night. AN ALTOGETHER UGLY SPOT. 327 Next morning at daybreak we were both up and ready to start, when my guide pointed out on the road the spoor of an immense lion. The presence, of this beast was the cause doubtless why the dogs would not help me to find the wild duck, and the reason of the cattle stampeding. We trecked together that day, and outspanned at Palapsey, spent a most restless and uncomfortable night in as ugly a situation as could be chosen, and the boys behaved very badly. One of my new friend's guaranteed saulted horses died a mile before we reached the halting- place of undoubted horse-sickness. I gave him a cer tificate to that effect, so that he might recover from the vendor the price he had paid for it. Two years ago the tsetse fly was so bad here that the place Avas generally passed in the night. A Boer trader who neglected to take this precaution lost all his cattle in consequence. The in other parts dry river has here two pools ; game, consequently, is abundant in the neighbourhood, and it has the worst character possible, for the audacity of the feres naturae that have selected it for their home. Next day I hunted in the afternoon, and although I saw plenty of different species of antelopes I did not kiU any. We trecked all the succeeding night, with the ex ception of two or three hours, and reached Mahalapsi, a large shaUow vley, by noon on the succeeding day. The pasture in this neighbourhood was excellent, so we determined to give the oxen a rest ; and as there were abundant indications of game in the vicinity, a hunt was resolved on, to take place next morning. This resulted in my kUling a koodoo (todo, Bechuana) and a 328 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. diker-buck. I missed a giraffe, although within two hundred yards, but had to be satisfied with its loss, as the ground Avas too broken and irregular to ride over. Greet killed a stein-buck. Next morning the guide came to me at earliest dawn and commenced imitating some animal. I was about to take my rifle, but he pointed to the smooth bore and shot cartridges, so arming myself with it, as soon as day commenced to break we went down into a grove of mimosa trees. Guinea-fowls and francolins fairly swarmed in them. I shot as many of these birds as we could consume, and in following them up got some distance from the wagon. In retracing our steps along the side of a rocky ridge, a splendid leopard showed himself for several seconds, but before I replaced the shot with ball cartridge it was gone. As a long treck without water was before us, Greet not expecting to find any till he reached Gouque, and I not till I came to some pits more than three days ahead, we started soon after midnight, and with short halts kept it up all the next day and night, and on the following morning crossed the dry bed of the Shasshi, from where my course went off to the right and his to the left. Over our deoch an' durass we drank that we should meet once more, our beverage being London stout — a valuable drink here — produced from his wagon. Both, I believe, felt grieved at separating. The scene of our parting was wild in the extreme, a pass between a jumble of rocks composed of the brightest red sandstone. He had the best of it, however, for before him was a track, while I had to steer my way through a wilderness where wagon had probably never gone before. CHAPTEB XXVIII. SURROUNDED BT DISAFFECTED SERVANTS. Treachery of my Attendants — I am a Fat Cow — Never lose your Temper to a Kaffir— A Charming Spot — How an Irishman made a Fortune in the Kala hari — Difficulty of Hunting in the Lands of Kama and SecheUe — Beware of Fraudulent Devices to take you to good Hunting-ground — Visited by Bush- People — Improvidence in the Matter of Drinking-Water —When to Value Water — Our aqua pura ! — An Improvised Filter — Plenty of Snakes — Local BeUef about Female Snakes. As I saAv the tent-cover of Greet's wagon disappear in its route northwards my thoughts were not the most enviable. Of course, when I left England I anticipated the kind of life I was about to enter into, but did not expect to do it alone ; and, worse than all, I felt con vinced that, excepting Umganey, I had bad and unre liable people about me. Greet warned me of this, and used his utmost efforts to induce me to go on to Matabele Land with him and hunt there ; but I had sketched my campaign, and was determined to stick to it, come good or bad. The fol lowing was a conversation heard by Mr. Greet between my people : — Driver : " We should be happy." Guide : " We should." Driver .- " It, is a fat cow." Guide : " Yes, it is a fat cow." Driver .- "And has plenty of milk." Guide : " Yes, it has plenty of milk." 330 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Driver : " And our king has given it us." Guide : " Yes, he has given it us." Driver : " It must be milked." Guide : " It must be milked." The reader wUl scarcely require to have it explained to him that I was the fat cow. They might designate me what they chose — fat cow as well as anything else — but I was resolved they would find me the most difficult of any of the bovine family to reduce to submission that they had ever pre viously to deal with. I would abide my time ; be patient but watchful; and, above all things, keep my temper. Nothing so delights a Kaffir as to be able to put a white man in a rage ; and another and quite as potent a reason that you should not give way is, that an angry excited man lays himself open to injury, where if he had been cool he could have avoided it. That night, by the camp-fire, I placed new cartridges in my revolvers. The suspected characters were around me at the time, and I could note how they exchanged with each other looks of anything but approval. Our next treck took us round the base of two large coppies covered with beautiful vegetation. Here I saw the first palm, also the wild fig, both of which continued to increase in numbers the farther we progressed. Numerous dry river-beds marred our course, and gave us much trouble in crossing their treacherous bottoms. In the evening we entered a most lovely park-like country, having more of the artificial than natural look about it. Although we have not yet come to water ; vegeta tion seems to flourish vrithout it, for the grass is green and the foliage of the trees of a colour that denotes perfect health. Here I selected the most charming OSTRICHES A SOURCE OF RICHES. 331 natural site for a house ; if it had been at home, say on the coast of Devonshire, it would have been worth a lot of money. The only game seen were ostriches (Impsey, Bechuana), diker and stein buck. The first-mentioned would not allow me to come closer than about 500 yards, yet I fired some shots at them. The short Martini-Henry is not accurate enough for such long ranges. I do not think any horse to be found in this part of Africa, even with a feather-weight on its back, could overtake an ostrich. If the ground were smooth and flat as a racecourse at home, and you had for your mount a good plater, doubtlessly you would succeed in such a performance. An Irishman once came into the Kalahari and made a great deal of money by the following plan : — Having bought up seven or eight of the best saulted horses he could find, he procured an equal number of bush-boys of five or six stone in weight, whom he taught to ride. Thus equipped he started into the desert. An ostrich, in spite of all you can do, will go up-wind, so taking advantage of this he placed relays of horses about six miles apart along the course the birds were certain to take when pursued. To prevent the ostriches deviating to the right or left when they winded the human being hidden in its course, both rider and horse were abundantly smeared with the secretion of some of the wild animals the birds were famihar with. The first lad made running as fast as he could, the second took it up at the same break-neck pace, while the third seldom faded to run into the game. Two or three birds a day were thus frequently killed, and as the feathers of each cock are worth from £40 to £50, the business was a remune- 332 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. rative one. Mr. Biley tried to get velt from Kama on which to hunt in this manner, but the sage king politely but firmly declined. In fact, nowadays, unless persons have a proper introduction to the King of the Bechuanas, he wiU not permit any one to hunt in his country, or even to pass through it to hunt in the lands beyond. There is, therefore, only another route open to the great elephant grounds, which passes through SecheUe's lands. He is just as particular as Kama. Any person, however, can go up the coast, and from there break into splendid shooting, but, on account of the tsetse fly, their horses, oxen, and dogs Avould all be dead or useless in a month. Men Avho have a slight experience of this land — persons who probably have been in the employment of traders — come home and advertise to take parties to the great shooting lands. They have but to find persons wiUing to go with them, when the fraud Arill be discovered. Any one might shoot on the north banks of the Limpopo, and on it find game of nearly all varieties — on rare occasions possibly elephants ; but there theh journey northward would terminate, so that after the expenditure of a considerable sum of money, the en durance of much fatigue and discomfort, they would probably have to return without accomplishing their purpose — the slaughter of an elephant. Those whom Kama or SecheUe know and profess friendship for they will do anything to serve, but cer tainly they do not like Tom, Dick, or Harry disturbing the country, and making the game they do not kiU wild. No one can blame them for this. The Duke of , or • the Marquis of will not let any one who has a WATER BECOMING SCARCE. 333 thousand pounds to throw away make incursions into his grounds, and shoot or drive off the ornaments of his preserves. I feel it a duty to mention this, as it may prevent many from woful disappointment, and a fruitless expen diture of much time and money. As I have said, diker and stein -buck were plentiful in this neighbourhood; where the little beauties get water is a mystery. If not in the vicinity, they must travel nearly thirty mUes for it, and supposing they only drink once in two days, their time, consequently, is pretty well occupied going to and fro. Some wretched, half-starved bush-people visited the wagon that evening. At first they were very timid, but soon gained confidence. They brought several ostrich- eggs full of water to sell. My knoAving it to be obtained by the sucking process prevented my availing myself of their offer. But my people were nothing loth to use it, so I made the hearts of these poor wanderers of the desert happy by giving them some beads and Avire. Although Buby has had a considerable portion of the water in my fachey, there are stiU remaining in it a couple of gallons, whereas the guide's, driver's, and foreloper's has long been empty. These people are so improvident that they require looking after like children, but as I am not an approver of carelessness, nor intend being nurse-tender to them, they may suffer for their want of forethought. Unfortunate Umganey has to be inconvenienced by their conduct — so blaming them, not him, I took compassion, and gave him more than one good drink. To learn to value water, a person has but to come here. 334 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Oh, for a glass of that pure liquid that tumbles down with merry laugh over our own hill-sides ! Champagne, Imperial Tokay, Johannisberg, all the choice wines of the world, would not in this region be at all to be com pared Avith it. The stuff we have to drink would anywhere else be deemed filth. It is full of animal life, decayed vegetable matter and excrement, yet it is all that can be obtained. Alum will not clear it, boiling makes it like pea-soup, and gives it a strong flavour of the animalculae cooked in it, while the charcoal filters I brought from London are utterly useless, for the reason that they clog in no time, and refuse afterwards to permit the passage of a single drop of liquid. The plan I adopted was to pour the water into a woollen stocking, and let it drip into a dish placed beneath ; it may have been a very inefficient filter, still it was the best I could improvise. Next day we arrived at noon at a splendid out spanning-place, as far as scenery was concerned. The coppies were high, sometimes quite a thousand feet, and invariably covered with trees. The giant baobab here is to be found, the most wonderful of aU vegetable productions. We inspanned at an early hour, and passed over an immense plain, with trees in clumps scattered here and there. Quagga, many descriptions of antelopes, with ostriches, were numerous, but were left undisturbed, as all were occupied -with the hope of reaching water as soon as possible. And, indeed, it was time we did so, for the poor oxen were suffering fearfully, old Ackerman especially indicating that much more of such hardship would be beyond his powers of endurance. This CURIOUS BELIEF ABOUT SNAKES. 335 would be a sad disaster, as I do not think I have another buUock that would treck as an after-ox. During this part of the journey I saw more snakes than had been observed anywhere else. They were all of the same species — the ordinary puff-adder, bloated, horrible -looking, dirty -coloured reptiles, running in length from three to five feet. They are so much like the sand in colour that it is difficult to avoid treading on them, and their bite is said to be certain death. One the driver killed with his whip-stick was almost five feet long. It is certainly fortunate that nature has made them so sluggish. There is a curious belief among the people here in reference to this reptile — the reader must accept it for what it is worth — namely, that the female only produces one brood, and in giving birth to them dies, as the young, having attained a sufficient age to enter the world, eat their way out to it through their parent's body. The driver of one of the Diamond-fields' coaches, a most intelligent coloured man, told me the same yarn. I asked him if he believed it. "Yes," he replied, "for I have seen it." He further went on to state that he heard a snake crying from the great pain it was enduring ; he went to the spot, and found a female puff-adder being delivered in the novel manner mentioned. The story current in some parts of the country at home, that adders, when they think their young in danger, swallow them, is certainly as strange and as worthy of belief as the other. At last we reached the looked-for camping-ground. Our guide gave a wild shrill yell, and as with the fol lowers of Boderick Dhu, each rock, bush, or bunch of reeds produced a Massara bushman. CHAPTEB XXIX. ADVENTURE WITH A LEOPARD. Washing, Mending, &c. — An Expected Row — Outspanned in a Nasty Place — The Attendants crowd to my Fire — Ordered to Light their own Fires — Rebellious Spirits — The Scoundrels leave me en masse — A Tedious Night — A Visit to my Cattle — Splendid Sunrises — Massaras Tracking — In Presence of Game — Zebra wounded — A Charge — Cruel Work — Out for a Run — A Leopard Hit — Attacked by the Dogs — Macguire comes to Grief — The Beast bites the Dust — Buffaloes and Leopards — Varieties of the African Leopard — Arguments in Support of my Theory — Meruley Tree — A Black Mamba. Here we rested for several days. I went in for washing, mending, laying out fresh ammunition, cleaning guns, " &c. &c. — for in two days' journey we would be in the veritable game country, until when I determined to rest. To put all in good temper I bought several goats for a cup of gunpowder each, and one was slaughtered daily. This was not absolutely necessary, for there was plenty of game about, but I had an unaccountable longing for the meat of tame animals. During this holiday a most obvious improvement in the appearance of the oxen and mare took place — a good indication that they still had some work in them. When we renewed the journey, the first three trecks were accomplished comfortably, the fourth not so, for I have had a most disagreeable row w^'th my attendants ; the undoubted cause of the difficulty is to be attributed to the guide, driver, and foreloper. The Massaras were simply tools in their hands. MUTINY IN THE DESERT. 337 We had trecked all day without water, and although the cattle scarcely got two hours out of the yoke, our progress was not what it should have been. The reason of this was that we lost two hours by sticking in a dry river-bed. At length it commenced to get dark ; but as the guide did not propose it, I said nothing about halting ; thus we toiled on till the Bechuana, who was leading us, thought proper to give the order to outspan. I did not like the place, for it was in the middle of an immense bed of reeds, and of aU places we had passed just the one to harbour lions. However, I resolved to keep good fires, remain on Avatch all night, trust in Providence, and keep my powder dry. Soon Umganey had my fire going, and aU the people commenced to crowd round it, without indicating the slightest intention of lighting one for themselves, or the one in front of the leading cattle. I remonstrated at this neglect ; but although I set the example of going into the reeds and dragging in branch after branch, the others showed not the slightest disposition to do as they were ordered. The making and keeping up the front fire is the duty of the foreloper, and as this worthy was paid by me for his services, I got hold of him, and insisted on his attending to his work. After some loss of time, he lit a little trifling bit of a fire, and came back to mine to talk scandal, smoke, and make him self generally comfortable, and obnoxiously conspicuous to myself. Again I insisted on his keeping up his fire ; at first he refused to do so, but I suppose thinking that I was not to be played with, went and put a few more sticks upon it. As soon as the foreloper had gone, I resolved that the guide and driver should make their fires, and go and sit by them with the crew of Massaras, w 338 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. whom I did not choose to have at mine, as they smelt so abominably strong. But all I could say or do would not induce them to attend to my instructions. Powl spoke English sufficiently to thoroughly comprehend what I required to be done. Moreover, Mr. Mackenzie had explained to all the delinquents, before they left Bamanwatto, that the three fires were to be hghted nightly, no matter where we were, in fact, that it was a duty never, on any pretence whatever to be neglected. Naturally I became angry at my driver's dis obedience, and let him know that when he got back to Bamanwatto that I would bring him and the guide before the king. Still all was of no avail ; so there were only two fires going, thus leaving the right side of the wagon entirely unprotected. At length I thought I would force the mutinous scoundrels away from mine, and thus compel them to light one for themselves ; but, instead of doing this, they arose en masse, led by the driver, guide, and foreloper, and walked off into the velt. I knew I was in a most disagreeable position, but powerless to do anything ; so Umganey and I did the best we could all night to keep the fires up, and to obtain wood we had frequently to go a quarter of a mile into the open. It was one of the most tedious nights I ever spent, and seemed to be interminable. At length the day broke, and I was truly thankful that when it did so I had not to record a loss. My attention has not been so much directed to the bullocks as formerly ; for, as they are especially under the driver's care, and I am commencing thoroughly to dislike him, I keep away from his charges. But this morning I had to assist in uutying them. Dear old A GLORIOUS SUNRISE. 339 Swartland and Buffle knew me as of old, but I think Poonah did not, for he gave me a kick on the shin of the left leg, that caused me great pain, and made me quite lame. When hobbling about, wondering what I should do with no one but Umganey to assist, the recusant creAv came back, laughing and joking as if nothing had happened, and resumed their duties. The sunrises in these regions are truly beautiful — in no other part of the earth have I ever seen them so worthy of unlimited admiration ; the rarefied atmosphere of these table-lands is doubtless the cause. At break of day I alAva}'s rise, and thus never miss a chance of seeing the great luminary take his first peep over the eastern horizon, and this morning was one of the grandest, most magnificent davms that mortal ever vritnessed. A few flaky, fire-burnished clouds hovered over the east after daylight commenced, slowly these ascended towards the zenith, and were replaced 'by those of a dark purple, the edges of which were margined by a thread of gold, which reflected from their centre every shade — from deepest orange to blood-colour. Such were the advance- guard of great Sol ; but round his majesty came forth a different escort — gay as the dresses of a Watteau picture or court pageant when king and queen hold high revel. Indeed, they were gayer ; for man hath not yet conceived, nor in his experience yet learned to produce, such hghts and shades as waited like satellites upon the wondrous luminary, as he ascended farther and farther into the sk}- — a sky you could gaze into, as one could into eternity — without bounds, without limits, Avithout end. Game was heard round the encampment aU night, so that my attendants concluded that we were about to have a great day's sport. w 2 340 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. After having my coffee I started. Three Massaras were my companions ; they were all small active feUows, one being old, the others young. We crossed the open velt, and entered a wood. Here we discovered plenty of spoor, which was not fresh enough to encourage pursuit. Pushing on again, we traversed another plain, and again our path led into timber land. Soon Ave found the trail of giraffe, a Avondrous track, and more hke the tread of a - man in a loose-fitting slipper, which had a coarse, deep seam up the middle. After follow ing this for an hour, we crossed the spoor of zebra; for this animal has taken the place of the quagga and BurcheU's zebra, which occupies the plains farther to the south. For a quarter of an hour the Massaras displayed their skill and perseverance as trackers. Not at a walk did they follow the game, but at a run, so swift that' they kept Buby at a good round trot, and so unerring that not for a moment did they appear at fault. This led us from one cover to another, from open land to where the underbrush became so thick that fifty yards could not be seen ahead. Here they stopped, picked up a few twigs and broken leaves, cautioned me to remain silent where I was, while they stole away in the most mysterious manner. Wonderful fellows are these bushmen — they rival the snake in its subtlety, the eagle in its power of sight. Where are they now ? I might well ask ; for, as far as evidence of human creatures being in my vicinity goes, I might as well have been at the North Pole, or in the centre of the sand- bound Sahara. At length one, in a moment afterwards the others, returned to me ; their appearance was as unexpected as if they had been shot up from the bosom of the earth. SHOOTING ZEBRA. 341 The elder took the bridle of my mare, and, followed by the others, we made a short detour; at a signal I dis mounted, walked fifty yards, and before me, not seventy paces off, were forty or more of the beautiful game feeding. So conscious Avere they of their security, that not a head was raised from the inviting leaves on which they browsed. I felt it was a shame to destroy the harmony of the picture — to awake the still, placid scene by the report of the deadly rifle. Sooner than fire, I could have gazed on and on till aU the animal life had passed away like a dissolving scene. But my people must have food : to giAre way to my feelings, and refuse to commit slaughter, would cause them all to desert, and leave me without the power of supplying the necessities of life. I singled out a victim ; she was a beautiful mare, with hind- quarters so round and strong that she might have been mistaken for a pampered brewer's horse. I wished to save the unfortunate pain, so took most careful aim ; but at the moment I pressed the trigger she moved, and the ball lodged rather too far back. Still, down she fell, and struggled for a long time unsuccessfully to regain her legs. In the meantime, all the herd trotted round and round her, gazing vrith sympathy upon her prostrate condition, and expressing wonder in their eyes at what could be the cause of her disaster. I might have shot now, not one, but half a dozen, and my Massaras in a most unequivocal manner protested against my apathy. Still I was not to be moved, on the ground there was meat and enough ; so I would not have taken the life of another, under any circumstances that could be urged. 342 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Approaching the struggling victim, its comrades fled. I would here have delivered a final shot, but my attendants were before me, and buried their assegais in its marvellously beautiful flanks ; but this attack seemed to produce new vitality, for the zebra rose, rushed headlong with open mouth at me — which charge I avoided by springing behind a tree — and disappeared into the forest. For two hours my attendants followed her spoor; at length we overtook the victim, sick in body, and powerless to go farther. A second shot brought her down, a mass of inanimate matter. It was cruel work from beginning to end, and, gentle reader, believe me, I was unwillingly the assassin. The vultures swooped down from their home in the distant skies ; soon every tree was loaded with them, and I felt I had done an evil deed when I had fired the shot that was to provide these foul feeders with a meal. By breakfast-time I was home, spent an idle day about camp, and at three in the afternoon was ready to get into the saddle. I did not wish to kill game, but to see it. Crossing an adjoining watercourse, we entered a broad velt : all the dogs were -with me, and evidently anxious for a run. Little Porty, an abbre viation for Portobello in Scotland, where she had been born — a present from the sincere, earnest missionary of Bamanwatto — barked and otherwise expressed her plea sure, within dangerous proximity of Buby's fore-feet. The stein-buck and the diker-buck broke from their retreats, and scampered off on fleet limbs to sanctuaries where they would be safe from further disturbance, and the dogs heeded them not, for they were too swift of foot. The plain that we were traversing now was very flat and smooth, with but a sparse covering of the most A LEOPARD AT BAY. 343 diminutive bushes on it : it looked as if nothing larger than a meer-cat could have found shelter upon its surface from the human eye ; but the large felidce know how to secrete themselves, for nature has presented them with a coat admirably suited for such a purpose. With a slack rein I rode ; the dogs were clustered around me, for the heat of the afternoon and want of water had commenced to tell upon them, when up sprang the largest leopard that I had ever seen, and at an easy canter, grunting at every stride it took, made for a few scattered trees. The appearance of the game was so sudden, that it was some moments before I left the saddle, and when I got ready to shoot, the dogs were between me and the object of my aim. At length I got a clear shot, and fired ; the bullet ricocheted under the leopard's feet, but in doing so hit some part of its body. However, giving no more evidence of its mishap than a shorter and more savage growl, as well as an acceleration of speed, it pursued its course as heretofore. By this time the dogs were crowding it, but none dare lay hold, for such an act of temerity would have insured instant death. Soon the trees were reached; hut instead of the leopard taking shelter in them, it turned round on the dogs, and the pack scattered like chaff before the wind. I approached, and got off my horse, having taken my double gun in place of the lately-discharged single- barrelled rifle. To my surprise, none of the bushmen would go closer. The dogs, owing to my presence, became more and more bold and clamorous ; one cur that I had picked up at Hartebeestfontein, near Klerksdorp, particularly distinguished himself; but his 344 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. prowess cost him dear, for the now thoroughly enraged cat made a dash forward, and with a sweep of her paw gave Macguire such wounds that he could scarcely crawl from the scene of the accident. If this continued longer, I clearly saw that not one of my curs would be left, so I advanced to get a clear shot, and so terminate the matter. This was difficult, as the dogs always kept between me and the game, but I continued to approach closer and closer. However, the panther had singled me for its next victim ; with a couple of bounds it cleared the yelping hounds, and in a moment would have been on me, but that a snap shot stopped it in its charge ; as, maimed and incapacitated for further injury, it bit and clawed the dust, I gave it a second barrel at a short range, and thus ended the fracas. With the exception of the buffalo, this is the most dangerous animal that can be encountered : its activity is surprising, and its vitality unequaUed. Moreover, it exceeds all other animals by its audacity at night in approaching an encampment, when dogs are its favourite prey. Horses also are among its principal victims, especially colts, and many are the inhabitants of Soshong who have justly to complain of the serious damage they have suffered at its hands. Bocks and coppies are the favourite resort of the leopard : never before or since have I found it on the open velt. The animal just killed was as large as a two-year-old lion cub, exceedingly high on its legs, and veiy hght in the body — more resembling my old friend, the hunting-leopard, or cheetah, of India, than any of the species I have previously met in Africa. Its body was beautifully marked, each primrose having a clearly- defined yellow centre. MY THEORY ABOUT THE LEOPARD. 345 I am convinced that in Africa there are three distinct species of leopard, the first thick and massive about the body, like a weU-fed domestic cat, yet Ioav in the shoulders, and light in the limb. The next stands taller, has coarse hair, and is very imperfect in its markings ; the head is narrower and more pointed, while the hmbs are stronger built and evidently more calculated for speed than those in the first mentioned. The last, an example of which I have just slain, stands high on its legs, possesses a beautiful and regularly- marked skin, and limbs that are really extraordinary in their size and power, while the taU is shorter than in what I claim to be other species. Since my return home I have spoken to Mr. Bartlett, the well-knovvn naturalist and superintendent of the Zoo logical Gardens concerning this subject, but he ap parently differed from me. Of the dog family we have acknowledged different species. Thus the Avolf, the Eskimo dog, and what is familiarly knoAvn as the Pomeranian, are very much ahke, different in size, it is true, yet no one would assert they are the same species. Again, the pointer, the fox hound, and the beagle, how closely do they resemble each other, yet are as widely different as possible ! No one denies them the right of belonging to different species, yet naturalists are prone to place all leopards in one species, although marked in formation of body as differently one from the other as any of the dogs. On my return to camp I saw my first harris-buck, but as day was waning, and we did not require meat, I did not attempt a stalk. To-morrow we treck into a famous buffalo country, margining a river, tributary of the Chabagi, and if my 346 THE GREAT THIBST LAND. Massara speak true, with lions so fierce that they will drive the intruder out of the velt. I am prepared to risk this, and can only say that if they succeed they must be a different kind from any I have met before. A tree that I have noticed before, but paid little attention to, now becomes abundant — it is the meruley. Among the vegetable kingdom of this part of the earth it is one of the most beautiful ; here it is to the land scape what the birch is to American scenery — the queen of the forest. Its height is seldom above sixty feet, but the stem is straight, and covered with a smooth, clean bark, not unlike our ash. The leaves are a very dark green, and in shape remind one strongly of the walnut. As a rule, it does not stand crowded in with other trees, but in openings, where it has plenty of breathing-space ; it produces a fruit about the size of a husked walnut, covered with a thick fleshy skin, inside of which is a very large stone, not unlike that of the peach. When ripe the skin of the fruit becomes yeUow, and soon after falls. It is then delicious, but unfortunately it requires a very great number to satisfy the palate, for, like all these wild fruits, the stone is so large that there is but a small portion of edible part. Possibly, by cultivation, this might be altered. The flavour is that of an acidu lated drop — the desirable combination of sweet and sour. Nearly all the wild beasts eat them, the elephant particularly, who will get his forehead against the trunk of the meruley, and then, bringing his enormous weight and power into action, shake down a sufficient quantity of the fruit to afford him, if not a meal, at least a very pleasant dessert. A black mamba — a description of snake common in A BLACK MAMBA. 347 Natal, and reported to be very deadly — I killed to-day. It was coiled up among a clump of mapaney bushes, and had just made a meal of some young birds, in con sequence it was more sluggish than this active reptile generally is. The inhabitants of Natal affirm that the mamba will chase you : this I doubt ; at the same time I believe that if you happen to be between it and its retreat it will not turn to either side to avoid you. CHAPTEB XXX. HUNTING AFTER BIG GAME. Mashoona Rice— Elephants— A Holiday I'pset— Ruby willing— Hints about Treatment of Horses - Charge of Buffaloes- Fate of the Bush-people— Danger of Buffaloes — A Tusker brought to Grief — A Pugnacious Elephant " — Seemingly he won't Die — KUled at Last — The Guide's Success — He Shoots a, Rhinoceros — Charged by the Brute — A Heavy Kick and Shot — Bullock used as » Charger — Experiments to ride him — Another Shot at Buffaloes— A Match for the Lion — Running Down an Eland — How itis Done — Damoiselle Cranes — Massara Bushmen — Our Line of March — Man with Three Wives — The Youngest Wife — Her Speed — Her Favourite Delicacy — Her Visits — Bush-people's Appreciation of Snuff — An Excellent A'egetable — The Probable Fate of the Massaras — My Levee of Sick Natives — How I manage to prescribe for them. I was sitting at breakfast, and a very good one it was, for I had curried stein-buck and some admirable Ma shoona rice — the finest rice I have ever eaten — and as Ave had plenty of meat in the camp, I had resolved to take a holiday. Buby had eaten her mealies, and the dogs had had their grub, and everything looked as if there were no probability of the ordinary routine of life being disturbed, when that feUow Umganey, Avhom I like so much, came rushing up with the news that there were elephants close by. " Where and how did you find out this ? " I inquired. " From a Massara — he see them this morning," was the answer. So there Avas nothing for it but to have Buby driven up and saddled, and go in pursuit, thus giving up my intended day of rest for one of more than ordinary toil. BOUND OUT FOR AN ELEPHANT-HUNT. 349 I had determined to have a holiday, and thus give the mare a holiday too, but how ruthlessly was it destroyed ! I can safely assert that I wished that the elephants had been at Jericho instead of feeding in proximity to the camp. But ivory was money, and money was wanted, ob taining possession of which is a disease that many besides myself are frequently seized with ; so I laid aside my pipe, pulled myself together, and assumed a look so hke business that if an observer had gazed upon me he would have thought that to slay elephants was the sole ambition of my life, and that to know they were within access, the delight of my heart would be to jump into the saddle and rush off instanter. Ay, ay, we are all deceitful creatures. How many go to church because they think it looks respectable ? The little mare was willing ; she came up to the wagon at a high, jaunty trot, stuck her nose into my buckets and pans to find where the mealies had been deposited — for it Avas ever my habit to indulge her Avhen she was brought to me — and not finding what she wanted, looked in my face so pleadingly that I felt ashamed of my forgetfulness — in fact, as if I had told a premeditated he, and been detected in doing so. But to remedy my forgetfulness was easy, so I put a handful or two on the top of the fachey while I pro ceeded to tighten the girths. Never did the little pet appear so fit to go ; she was as buoyant as a cork in body and spirit, so when I threw my leg over her, I felt that she was able to accomplish aught that was in the power of horseflesh. Let me impart a secret — possibly I may be laughed at for caUing it so — never tease a horse by tickling or otherwise, for although at first it may 350 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. resent it with apparent friendliness, in the end it will with vice. If they come to you for grain at an hour they are in the habit of receiving it, do not disappoint them. Of course there are old stagers of garrons who have been spoiled by their previous owners, and whom aU the coaxing in the world will not recall to virtuous courses, but with a young one it is different ; treat it kindly and consistently, and, it will reciprocate in the same manner. The spoor was soon found, and we followed it up briskly. There was no doubt the elephants were not far ahead, and momentarily I expected to be in sight of them, when five buffaloes, who seemed to drop from the heavens, for they had not been seen before, charged right into our party. Buby sprung forward, jumped over an inter vening bush, and thus in a moment placed me in safety ; but when, I turned round to look at my bush-people, one was finishing a somersault in the air, another hanging by his hands from a limb, his feet not a foot aboAre a buffalo's head, who was madly but ineffectually charging backwards and forwards at them. The poor feUow had not strength to pull himself up, but simply to hold on, and, of course, in time must have succumbed and dropped in front of his foe, but I made a good shot off the mare's back, and placed a two-ounce bullet exactly in the proper place behind the shoulder. Slowly, and uttering a piteous complaint for being deprived of life, it sunk down and died directly under the hmbs of the climbing savage. Blow the buffaloes ! They are the most dangerous beasts on the whole velt, for they are as cunning as a pet fox, as stealthy as a cat, almost as swift as a horse, and possess power to lift a house, or, at any rate, a shanty. AMONG THE TUSKERS. 351 Again, they never know when they are beaten — fre quently you may riddle them Arith bullets, and they seem stiU to have a charge in them, and if a final shot takes away that power, they will sink down and groan out a remonstrance at the treatment they have received. However, I soon got my scattered forces assembled, for none had received very serious injury, and en avant was the cry. In three miles we overtook the herd. One of them was a splendid tusker, and through proper management and care I succeeded in giving him the stern shot. His travelling days I saw were then over. So I singled out another, and tried to treat him in the same cavalier manner, but he was the most pugnacious, wide awake brute I ever came across. First, when I was about to puU the trigger, he turned almost completely round* and charged so persistently, that if the little mare had not knoAvn what she was about, and been on her guard, we must have come to grief, for the long -reaching trot of elephants takes them far more rapidly over the ground than any one unacquainted vrith them would believe. Again and again I went vrithin thirty yards to fire, but the brute would not give me a chance to pick out a vital place, for the head was always towards me, and the instant I halted to shoot was the signal for a charge. The mare was as cool and self-possessed as ever she was in her life. The moment I dropped the reins on her withers she stood, and without guidance, as soon as the shot was fired, avoided the irate animal's attack. I thought this a good opportunity for trying the head-shot I had practised in the East, although the distance was long. Crack went my right barrel over Buby's ears. The baU hit just above the junction of the trunk with the forehead. Down came the game, but 3-.2 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. only to his knees, and in an instant after was on his pins, and as active and pugnacious as ever. Beloading my discharged barrel, I tried if the left would be more successful, but not a bit of it. The quarry got it almost in the centre of the forehead, the result of which was not at all satisfactory, for it provoked the most wicked charge that I had yet sustained. Coming to the conclusion that I was fooling away my time and ammunition, and putting the plucky beast to unnecessary pain, I selected the knee, for I could not prevent the animal facing me, and at the first fire brought it down, finishing the business by placing a second bullet between the root of the ear and the eye. William, my Bechuana guide, also kiUed a very large tusker ; in fact, the best that fell that day. By three I was back in camp, and the people sent off to bring in the ivory and meat. A little before sunset the guide, against my wishes, shot a rhinoceros. It was within sight of the wagon for upwards of an hour, and I was having a most careful survey of its manner through my field- glass, when he discovered it, and in spite of aU I could say, go he would. We had such a quantity of meat already that it was really committing a positive sin to take any more animal life, so I was very nearly having a row with the feUow to enforce my orders. However, I thought it was better to avoid a disturbance with so valuable a servant. His disobedience, nevertheless, very nearly cost him dear, for at the first shot he only wounded the beast, which charged at the smoke, vrinded him, and coursed him in grand style over the velt. At length he managed to dodge, and while the vicious beast was poking about the bushes looking for its late foe, the guide put in a second MR. POWL ON AND OFF. 353 shot, but with no better success. Again he was hunted, and in his excitement and fear made straight for the encampment. At one moment I thought the brute had him, but a quick turn saved his bacon. At this moment aU the dogs came up, and the rhinoceros's attention became fully occupied with the noisy pack. To my annoyance the infuriated beast a second time directed its steps towards us, so to avoid it running amuck through my property, Avhich it doubtlessly would have done, I took my four-bore, loaded vrith ten drams of powder, availed myself of the shelter of some thick mapaney brush and an ant-hill, and took aim. I pressed the trigger, and, my goodness ! I received a blow on the shoulder that completely floored me, the gun at the same time springing out of my hand, and tearing a couple of inches of skin off the inside of my finger. As for the game, it never knew how it had been converted into meat. After this exploit I kept that gun for the use of friends and refractory servants who were fond of sport, and it certainly afforded this in more ways than one. Next morning I bought a beautiful little bullock for an old musket. The Bechuana and Massara constantly use oxen for riding, so I thought I would convert him into a charger. But with the caution characteristic of my countrymen, I preferred seeing another on his back to making the first attempt myself. It was Bowl's work to handle the cattle, so I told him to mount ; he did so, but the moment the bullock was let loose off it went over the velt, bucking most furiously, and pitched Mr. Driver a most beautiful somersault. I now ordered the foreloper to get on. Nothing loth, he did so, and made a good effort to keep his seat, but ultimately failed, and 354 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. became acquainted with the dust. Those who had not mounted seemed to think that the unsuccessful candidates for equitation honours were duffers, so in rotation, even to that fat goose Umganey, they got on the ox, and were as rapidly unseated. When unmounted the bullock was as quiet and gentle as an old cow ; get on his back and he appeared to go crazy. It was one of the most amusing episodes I had witnessed for a long time; in fact, so much so that I brought on a violent headache by giving way to excessive laughter. There are to-night at least seventy or eighty bush- people around the fires ; where they all come from is a marvel to me, for the country seems to be entirely uninhabited, and nowhere AviU you find evidence of man's presence. The country about here is most beautiful, yet unlike anything I have ever seen, for every mUe or less out of the flat velt rise coppies, some to the elevation of a hundred feet, some to double that height, and all are clothed with vegetation to the summit, although there appears to be no soil to give it nourishment. On the plains the trees are not numerous, standing about a hundred yards apart, with immense baobabs at almost every quarter of a mile. The underbrush is very scant, what there is being mapaney. While traversing this plain I commenced to think what a dreadful place it would be to get lost in, for not only did all the coppies look alike, but each, tree appeared a fac-simile of the other. Spoor of game was very abundant, yet so far we had seen none, when one of the Massara touched me gently on the hand and pointed to the left. Beneath a RUNNING DOWN GAME. 355 meruley tree stood several buffaloes. I got off the mare, made a very cautious stalk to the back of a rock ; from there I was within easy shooting distance. I singled out a fine fat sleek cow, and broke her shoulder with the first barrel ; the second shot, which was fired at short range, terminated the matter. To my grief, when inspecting the carcase, I found her udder full of milk, so doubtless she had a calf hid somewhere in the vicinity. Poor little beggar ! without its dam it would be certain before long to be run doAvn by the hyaenas. It is a strange fact that all the game hide away their young when they have' not attained sufficient age to follow, while the parent feeds round about, ever keeping a watchful eye that no beast of prey comes near the resting-place of her child! Although many buffaloes are doubtlessly killed by lions, yet my belief is that where a mature bull or cow is the victim, it takes two or three to accomplish their purpose. A single lion would probably be killed if he attempted to take a calf in presence of its mother. On my way home we found a flock of elands, the largest of aU the antelopes. As Buby was fresh and anxious for a gallop, I resolved to try the experiment of driving one to the wagon. This is easily done by those experienced in this antelope's pursuit, and the same can be accomplished with the giraffe. The method is to force the running from the beginning, and then cause the game to go beyond its power, and thus become pumped, when you have only to ride quietly behind, turning it to the left or right as required. I picked out the fattest of the herd, and although it had three hundred yards' start, was alongside the quarry in little over half a mile. The poor eland tried x2 356 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. its utmost to get some more speed out of itself, but found it was no use, but in doing so broke from its trot — the only pace it uses when pursued, unless much exhausted — and commenced a floundering gallop ; very little of this sufficed to thoroughly wear it out. Poor thing ! it looked at me with such pleading eyes that I was very nearly leaving it ; but at the wagon meat was required, for the buffalo was so far off we could not take more of its flesh than would make a light load for my attendants. If this eland had been accustomed to be driven aU its life, had it been a demure old milk cow, it could not have behaved better. Thank goodness ! I was spared the task of butcher, for the guide was only too glad to relieve me of such a disagreeable job. This evening, soon after sunset, I Aritnessed an extraordinary scene. Hearing a great many birds calling at some distance, I looked up into the heavens, and as high as they could possibly be and remain vrithin sight, were thousands and thousands of large birds circling round. They were too far off for me to distinguish what they were at first, but after a few minutes, as if with one accord, they aU closed their wings and swooped down to the earth with the most remarkable velocity, and lit upon the velt within a quarter of a mile of the wagon, their numbers being so great that they covered several acres. They were damoiselle cranes. These Massara bushmen are not the least like the bush-people of the south, for many are taU, handsome, weU-made men, Arith features quite the reverse of the negro type, and do not speak with a click. In fact, many of them possess very animated, intelligent, and agreeable A BLACK BEAUTY. 357 features. They are capable of enduring much fatigue, and possess great courage in the chase, all game, from the largest to the smallest, falling before their spears or arrows. StiU they are not a warlike race, and very much dread the Matabeles. It is worth while to see the line of march, women, children, and men all spread out, and on the qui vive for anything that can be picked up, from a tortoise to a meer-cat. There is one man who has three wives— the youngest one is not more than fifteen, and only lately married, and as an elder wife has two bairns, this young thing has to carry one of them, and that the bigger. I am quite certain from her look that she does not like the occupation, and I should say small blame to her. She has a beautiful figure and very pretty face, and as she has only a piece of caross fastened to her loins, there is no deception possible. But for her complexion, a description of coffee-colour, I feel convinced that if she were dressed a la mode she would be a belle. You should see her run : a jackal jumps up, after it rush the dogs, down goes the baby dump off her back in an instant, no matter whether into thorns or not, and like a sky-rocket she is in pursuit, to save the hide from being torn by the dogs ; yes, and the carcase too for that matter, for jackal is deemed a great delicacy among them. She is a mischievous young lady too. The large caterpiUars, immense things longer than your middle finger, and beautifully marked with purple and green spots along the side, are deemed by the Massara great delicacies ; they eat them au naturel or parched, the latter being the favourite method. Having found a quantity of them, she brought me some alive, and when she dis covered that I had even repugnance to taking them in 358 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. my hand, she commenced eating them one by one in front of me. I shook my head, and showed by my gestures that I disliked exceedingly to see the belle of the party guilty of such unladylike conduct, so ever after when she chanced to find any caterpillars she would come close to me, hold the Avriggling thing aloft between her finger and thumb, and then place it in her mouth. As a proof of her speed and power of endurance, I will mention a fact that will rather astonish our home bred girls. I fired at, and mortally wounded, a giraffe, still it had vitality to go over two miles at a very smart pace. Of course I started in pursuit, Buby doing about a three-quarter gallop. At the moment this Massara woman happened to be by my side, so she seized hold of the mare's long tail, and assisted by that ran the entire distance. In the morning she frequently pays me a visit, and out of courtesy I tell Umganey to give her either some sugar, some snuff, or a piece of tobacco. The first she eats at once, making wonderful pantomimic expressions to indicate the pleasure she is enjoying, the two other articles she takes to her old husband, and dirides the spoils evenly with him. Snuff is a thing all these people are wonderfully fond of, men and women alike, and a quarter of an ounce of it would be deemed ample recompence for a day's labour. It is a pity they smell so, and yet they do not appear dirty. I expect it must arise from their living so much upon animal diet. There is an exceUent vegetable found on these velts ; its name I do not know, but it is about the size of a large Swede turnip ; the skin is leathery and soft, but when broken a quantity of substance about the con sistency of mashed turnip is found inside. This, when ABOUT THE MASSARAS. 359 cooked with oil, pepper, and salt, is very palatable. The portion above the soU is like a very thin sprig of privet bush, vrith less substance in the stem. The stone of the meruley fruit is also carefully cracked, and the kernel picked out. In flavour it much resembles an old walnut, and the people esteem them a great delicacy. The Bechuanas, I remarked, appeared exceedingly fond of their children. I do not think such is the case with the Massara ; possibly they find them very much in the way when leading such a roving life. Moreover, the services of the young women in procuring food for the family must be very valuable. From this fact I suppose arises the practice of babes being handed over to their grandmothers to he suckled. Such unfair treat ment of the child is rather to be deplored. The probability that this race will become extinct is great : fifty years ago they were tvrice as numerous as they are now. The Matabeles, however, have much to do with the diminution of their numbers, for although they are not so prone to it now, at one period they were in the habit of hunting them hke wild beasts, and showing them quite as little mercy. On the whole the Massara seem to lead a happy enough life, and an occasion like the present is evidently con sidered by them a grand holiday. I explained to Um ganey that I wished him to ask the guide what these host of people were to be paid ; the reply was laconic, " Give them plenty meat." Every morning I had a levee of sick natives — the men, that is, the invalids, who attended, generaUy had fearful sores or a disease of the skin, in which it ap peared to peel off in large white flakes, but I usually 360 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. managed to effect a cure by the application of ointment. Nor should I neglect to mention that ophthalmia was common to both sexes. The latter I treated Avith a solution of nitrate of silver, and always found it an effectual remedy. But they were most troublesome patients to advise. I would spend half an hour tying up a man's leg, and in an hour after find him careering over the velt, after a wounded quagga or eland, like a mad creature. As a matter of course, I have no right to prescribe, for I am not a doctor, but I treated my patients as I would myself under the circumstances, and always found that I relieved those who had come to me to seek my aid. I do not refuse to admit the skUl of many of our physicians, but if there is a profession in which there is an enormous amount of humbug, it is in the medical. A capital recipe Mr. Mackenzie gave me, to be used especially when the water was bad, was to mix a small quantity of Epsom salts with it. I followed the advice, and found great benefit from it. CHAPTEB XXXI. LAID UP IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND. A Strange Spot — A Picturesque Camp — Namaqua Partridge — A Visit from the Bush-people— Dog seized by Leopard — A Prickly Screen for Safety — Massaras' Feeding-powers — Giving Ruby a Run — A Miss-shot — Koodoo — Stealing upon Giraffes — One brought low — After a Cow and her Little One — Ready for the Shot — Thrown — Gradually recover Consciousness — Used up — The Bushmen Find me — Lost — Brought Back to Camp — The Guide Hunts for me — His Success. The place we are encamped at is a strange spot. The Bechuanas call it one thing, the Massaras another ; and an extraordinary being, a big, powerful man, covered with rags and pieces of skin, whose birthplace is a wonder to aU, and who has, uninvited, made our camp his own, de signates it by a third name, each of which seems more difficult than the other to pronounce. Schoolpat in Boer language means a tortoise — the name of our encamp ment resembles it in the Bechuana tongue ; but there seem to be at least half a dozen syllables introduced. Surrounded by woods without limit, the trees which compose them being in height and size about that of ten-year-old elms, ashes, and poplars at home, is a clear ing covering nigh twenty acres. From the margin of the bush rises an unbroken rock of very hard, dark sandstone, to an elevation of about thirty feet above the neighbouring country. Its sides are not particu larly steep, not more so than a horse or ox can ascend without difficulty; and in the centre of this mass of 362 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. stone is a pool, in parts very deep, and covering quite half an acre. It is about the last place that the traveUer would expect to find water, unless he were to watch the even ing flight of doves or Namaqua partridge (a sand-grouse), both of which seem to have selected it as a favourite watering-place, good proof that no other pools are to be found in the vicinity. Here I have erected a most picturesque camp, the sail of greased canvas intended to cover the wagon has been made into a giant tent, under which I pass my day and stable my horse at night. Lion spoor is so abundant about the neighbourhood, that such steps become imperative. So with a ship's lantern hanging over her head, and myself within sight, with a couple of double guns, loaded on purpose for emergencies, I feel that my pet is tolerably safe. In fact, as a concur rence in my belief, Buby lay doAvn at night, which I had never known her do previously after daylight had departed. The first evening here I went out at sunset, and soon shot enough Namaqua partridge to satisfy my whole establishment. They are a beautiful bird, almost as large as an English partridge, but of a much more varied and brilliant plumage, and feathered about the legs and feet, as all the grouse family are. On the wing they are amazingly rapid, their flight, from the size and pointed shape of the wings, resembling more that of a swift. However, as in wild-duck-shooting at flight-time, so with them — get them against the clear sky, aim well ahead, and after you have had a little practice, you can make very good shooting. Some bushmen, attracted by our fires, paid us a visit during the evening. All assert that game is most abun- ALAS! POOR MARIO. 363 dant, and that on the morrow they will show me ele phants, giraffes, buffalo, or aught else I desire. I have had too much experience, or am getting too old, to be kept awake at night by anticipating sport, so soon went to sleep, and till day broke in the morning I never opened my eyes. During the night, however, an adventure occurred at the bushmen's camp, about two hundred yards, off. When near Ladysmith, in Natal, I bought a dog, resembling more a harrier than any other breed, for a few shillings. It was a spiteful, bad-tempered, cowardly brute, and always preferred the society of the servants to my own. Consequently I did not love it — rather the reverse, although I had never shown it any unkindness. However, this was the kind of brute it was — if the fore loper was going to the south to herd his cattle, and I in the reverse direction to shoot, Mario, so named because of his grand voice, would give me the cold shoulder and follow the former. Well, he had preferred leaving the wagon and taking shelter under the lee of one of the heathen, doubtless having secured a con siderable quantity of the sleeping man's caross over his back, when a hungry leopard spied him, hooked him out vrith his paw, and carried him off, in spite of the rescue attempted by the bushmen, armed with fire- sticks. Being deprived of this dog, I did not mind, but the bushmen assured me that the leopard having been suc cessful in his first effort, would not cease to come nightly till he had carried off every one of my favourites. To prevent such a result, soon after I rose I made all my employes turn to and cut sufficient prickly mimosa to erect a formidable screen on the three sides of the wagon next the woods. 364 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. About nine o'clock, with three Massara bushmen, I started to hunt for meat. My encampment had become quite a place of rendezvous for all the people in the district, each of whom expected food, and such quantities of it, that they would have consumed an ox a day. To give an idea of how much they can eat, I wUl mention what has come under my observation, not once, but many times. After eating incessantly an hour or two — in which space of time they would have put out of sight six or seven pounds of flesh — they would leave the fire and go into the bush to become sick. That performance over, they would return and gorge as if nothing had happened. A zebra as big as a Galloway fourteen hands high would not last them over a day. So, with a crowd of this kind about me, I could not be expected to spare the game. The early part of the day was unsuccessful. Buby, who was very fresh, I had to take down a peg or two, an opportunity soon presenting itself. A brace of striped hyaenas jumped up in front, so I gave the larger a burst, and in a mile finished him with my revolver. About an hour afterwards, a splendid koodoo (todo, Kaffir name) rushed past, at a distance of fifty or sixty yards. In a moment I was off the mare, took sight, and fired; but the bullet fell short, and the game entering some dense underbrush immediately afterwards, I did not get time to put in the second barrel. This antelope is truly a splendid specimen of the family to which he belongs, is exceedingly graceful and active, frequently reaching the weight of five hundred pounds. Bocky, irregular ground and the sides of coppies are its favourite haunts, although it may occa sionally be seen in localities of quite a different nature. BRINGING DOWN A GIRAFFE. 365 Its massive horns, with a corkscrew twist ascending them from the butt to near the point, are formidable weapons ; so that, when brought to bay, the sportsman had better be careful. Their meat is exceedingly good, and their hide makes a valuable leather. Leaving the koodoo to take care of himself, which it was quite evident he was capable of, we directed our course to another range where mimosa grew in abundance. This alteration of direction had not long taken place, when one of the bushmen seized Buby's head- stall, and pulled her, and me — for I was on her back — behind a bush. Beceiving a signal to alight, I dismounted, and cautiously foUowed one of the guides, when he pointed out eight giraffes feeding. Their tremendous height, long necks, short bodies, high -withers and low rumps, it matters not how often I see them, make me feel disposed to wonder at their struc ture, and almost laugh at the absurdity of their appear ance.. But of one thing all may feel certain, that the Great Constructor of the universe has most admirably adapted them for the part they have to play in it. I had my Martini-Henry in my hand, so, although the distance was over two hundred yards, determined to take a shot. The reason of my coming to this con clusion was, that the ground was so bare between us, that I felt convinced any attempt at a stalk would prove a failure. Accordingly, I took sight at the nearest female (males are so musky, that it requires the stomach of a black man to enjoy it as food), fired, and she fell all of a heap. The companions did not seem to understand the matter, but with uncertain gait com menced to move off. As the line they were pursuing would take them within a hundred yards of me, I 366 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. jumped on Buby's back, and shoved a fresh cartridge into the breech of my rifle. This action warned the quarry where the danger was, so off they went at their extraordinary trot; but, however funny their gait ap pears, it has a marveUous capability of covering the ground. Dear little Buby ! I christened you so because I thought you perfection, and thus being so like one I loved. But why think of the past? Buby, in her keenness to be alongside the game, if I do not look out, will pull me over her head. It takes a good horse to catch a giraffe, but even with my weight up, if the ground, were at all suitable, it never appeared any trouble for this little mare to overhaul them. I singled out a cow of giant proportions, one of the largest I had ever seen; she was attended by a calf about seven feet high. Now this old lady was very crafty -. soon she found out. that speed could not save her, although she put on a wonderful turn of it, and made her tail describe a circle, of which the root was the centre and the tassel the circumference ; so she altered her tactics; and made into some very dense bush, the little one sticking to her heels like a leech. At length I compelled her to leave this cover, when she made a dash out over the open, evidently with the inten tion of gaining some thick wood at the end of a coppy. No need of spurs : my little grey laid down at once to her work ; every stride brought me closer and closer. Steady, my lassie ; take the left side, if you please, and my rifle was cocked to deliver my shot, when Buby put both her feet in an ant-bear hole or some other ex cavation, and I went flying over her head, how far I cannot say, into a clump of thorn-bushes. QUITE DONE UP. 367 For a length of time, giraffes, horses, and rifles were things I had no knowledge of. At length I became sufficiently conscious to sit up ; my dear little mare stood over me, and looked with her large expressive eyes as if she wondered what was the matter. I tried to puU myself together, but for a time I could not ; I felt no pain, yet I felt no power, though I was conscious that the sun was setting. Not for my own, but for Buby's sake, I made another effort ; the result was excruciating, though partiaUy successful. Then I thought of my rifle. I searched for it, and found it with the barrel choked Arith sand. I had sense enough to know that in such a state it was not serviceable, and therefore cleared it. Used up I undoubtedly was ; a haze was over my eyes, and an amount of lassitude over my body, that I felt indifferent to what might follow, yet my affection for the httle mare told me that I must light a fire, or run the risk of losing her during the night from the attack of some skulking marauder. Soon I found a fallen tree : it had long been blown down. I gathered the limbs, and pUed them beside the trunk ; the smoke gave way to fire, and the fire hungrily seized upon aU that was in its vicinity and suited to its taste. I have said I cared not for myself, whether devoured by vrild animals or not was perfectly indifferent to me ; I wanted to He down and rest, possibly not to die, but to be in absolute rest. I was about to give way to my inclination when Buby neighed ; I looked up, and there were my bushmen — they had followed the spoor to where they found me. I understood not their language, neither did they mine, stUl I became aware that they Arished me to go to the wagon by repeating the word kiloe (Bechuana for wagon), and I consented, perfectly 368 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. indifferent to what I did. To get into the saddle was a work of labour, but with assistance I succeeded. One of the Massaras led the way, the other two held me in my seat by the thighs. It was a long, long tramp, and much of the way was passed over in a semi-conscious state. The night air had freshened me up, the motion of riding had, I believe, assisted, for the stupor which had previously overpowered me commenced to give way. At least, I remember clearly the bushmen indicating by signs that my rifle should be ready for use. We then entered some dense reeds, among these we apparently wandered for hours ; at length I became cognisant that we were lost. If so, it did not matter much, so perfectly indifferent I felt to everything. However, the bushmen again moved forward and gained an open space. They had scarcely done so when two lions roared, ap parently from the place we had just left. Anxiety for the mare — conscientiously I do not think it was for myself — made me make a further effort to pull myself together ; and while the Massara lay at length upon the earth, the better to see anything approaching, I stood prepared to use my weapon. This state of watch continued fifteen or twenty minutes, when I thought I heard the report of a gun. In an instant my attendants were on their feet, and pronounced the mystic word Hoe, and leading my horse off to the left of the course we had formerly pursued, brought me to my encampment in less than an hour. On looking at my clock it was exactly half-past three. For nearly a week others had to hunt to keep the wagon supplied with meat. To Umganey's unremitting attention I believe I owe my life. It is impossible, and perhaps not desirable, to GUIDE'S SUCCESS MORE THAN LESS. 369 enumerate the quantity of the game killed. With the exception of killing elephants and ostriches for the sake of their ivory and feathers, I endeavoured not to slay anything that was not required ; however, in thus limiting the slaughter I was not always successful, for the guide, who was an excellent hunter and very fair shot, had had the loan of one of my eight-bores, and with it dealt out, I fear, terrible destruction. At night he frequently came and tumbled into the wagon a tusk or two, or shoved into the tent a bundle of feathers, my share of his success in his hunt. Thus hours drifted into days and days into weeks ; from one place to another we shifted our encampment, but still the pot, or rather the flesh was on the fire. Elephants now commenced to get scarce, for these wily animals having been so much hunted, betook themselves to the hills adjoining to the eastward, where the tsetse abounded, and pursuit on horseback was impossible. From my wagon, soon after break of day, I have seen numerous varieties of game within a quarter of a mile, any man who could handle a gun fairly might have gone forth and dealt destruction in the ranks of each. If I had had a companion, one to whom I could talk, whether he were black or white, I should have been satisfied; but I was alone, veritably alone, and with attendants about me who regarded me as a milk cow, the cow to be sacrificed as soon as nature prevented it from giving a supply of the lacteal fluid. In spite of this I determined on leaving my wagon for a time to have a hunt on foot into the fly country. CHAPTEB XXXII. ON THE RETURN JOURNEY. Hunted by a Wounded Tusker— He Misses his Mark— Never will chase Man more— Good-bye to the Massaras— Souvenirs— My Gift to the Beauty— Treck, Treck, Treck !— Water-pits— Where has the Water gone ?— Digging for the Precious Liquid— Quenching Thirst— A Baobab Tree -Meruley Fruit— Disaffection among my Servants— My Attendants have Fled!— Reviving the Fires— Stung by a Scorpion— My Attendants' Festivities- Disturbing the Merry-makers— Ordered to Return to my Camp— Foreloper Refuses— Coppies— Black Rhinoceros— Shot Dead— Klep Springers— My Saddle in Sad State — Little Grey Monkeys— Beautiful Koodoo. Into the fly country I went, game I found in the utmost abundance, particularly buffalo. If I had desired it I could have killed a dozen of them a day ; but tuskers Avere what I wanted, and they were not scarce, but difficult to circumvent. However, we persevered, and ivory came in plentifully. One incident which occurred in the weeks I spent away from my wagon is I think deserving of notice. For two days we followed on foot the spoor of several elephants ; of course we slept out at night on their track, and under, the circumstances tried to make ourselves as comfortable as we could. The third day we overtook our game in some hills not steep, but very rocky ; our approach to them was unobserved, so that I got vrithin thirty yards of a large tusker before I fired. The first barrel staggered him, the second missed fire, and before I could shove fresh cartridges into the breeches, my position was discovered, and I had to seek safety in GIFTS TO THE FOLK I LEAVE BEHIND ME. 371 flight, while trying as hard as 1 could to reload the gun. An elephant does not appear to be going fast when in pursuit of his foe, but trust not your eyes, or you vriU have reason to repent it. Thus I was hunted from pillar to post, and kept moving all the time ; ultimately the amusement became so exciting that I would AviUingly have dispensed with the attention of my pursuer, but I could not do so, for stiU I was a perfectly used-up man. Finally he nearly was on the top of me, so I turned and ran down the coppy side, the monster just behind me ; the ground was steep, so I suddenly, just as I thought the trunk was over my shoulder, turned to the left, and the big beast overshot me, and went on for fifty yards trying to stop his impetus ; turning suddenly round I gave him a two ounce bullet in the rump. He never chased a Christian afterwards. At length time came for me to bid my Massara — for I have turned my steps homewards many days since — good-bye, and I really was very sorry to have to do so, for they were keen, expert hunters, very obliging and civil, and, I believe, strictly honest. Meat they had had to their hearts' content, so the payment of them according to contract was settled ; but I felt still their debtor, for I had obtained, while among them, a valuable coUection of ivory and many choice blood ostrich feathers ; further, I desired to leave among them something that would recaU the stranger's visit when he was far away. So I summoned them to the wagon and handed to the chief man, for distribution, a bag of blue beads, a large coil of brass -wire, and three or four pounds of Boer tobacco ; and to each of the women, who came gracefully forward to receive it, a t2 372 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. necklace, with locket pendant and a bracelet. These were of Birmingham manufacture, and were so well made, and so thoroughly resisted tarnishing, that any but an adept would have thought them gold. The delight of these primitive people when they saw the locket opened and shut was enthusiastic. To the beauty I gave the handsomest ; it was shown to aU for inspection, and every time she caught my eye looking at her she clapped her hands and laughed and laughed again. An hour after she came to the wagon looking rather glum, and Avithout her ornaments ; she did not understand me, or I should have asked what had become of them; but this I soon discovered, for the great guide soon after came to my fire with them upon his ungainly person. He was not long in giving up his booty. When the wagon started all came along vrith it as in days gone by; but after a few miles their ranks com menced to thin, yet none left without bidding me farewell. The last I saw of my Massara was a group of nine or ten standing in the- road looking after the wagon; when they saw that I observed them they gave a wild shout and darted off across the velt. It has been treck, treck, treck, since I commenced to narrate my adventures ; if the word bores the reader, just let him think how much more it bored me. Want of water I have had many experiences of, but the following was the severest ordeal I had to endure. Thank God it was so, or I should not be here to tell it. From a dirty pool, alive with animal life, we had wound our tedious way to some springs we had heard of Avith the hope of getting my cattle an abundant supply of water before we commenced to cross a space of desolate sand velt, A PUZZLE FOR THE SCIENTIFIC. 373 an isthmus, as I may call it, of the Great Thirst Land, where we were convinced not a drop of liquid could be obtained for three days, and, possibly, if a certain vley were dry, for a longer time. As it was moonlight, and that is the coolest time for trecking, and your cattle with such light seem to steal more rapidly over the ground, we made excellent pro gress, so that we were outspanned by the last water by nine o'clock. The pits in which the water was contained we had learned were in the source of a dry river-bed — one of those extraordinary phenomena peculiarly representative of this part of Africa. That water flowed in them once constantly cannot he doubted ; but what has become of it ? WeU I had better leave the scientific to explain. However, aU over the country they are to be found, some large, very large — two hundred and more yards across ; others smaU, not greater than a little Scotch burn. Submerged in the hungry sand — here ever ready to swallow all it can engulf — you discover boulders and rocks, marked with the indelible and indisputable lines that tell so plainly that they have been submitted to the action of water from time immemorial. And the vegetation on their margins — the trees, and more espe cially the reeds, tell of the presence of water, but where is it to be found ? My boys discovered some old pits made by the bush men ; they were at least twenty feet deep, and all we could sav of them was that the soil at their bottom was damp. However, they commenced to dig and scratch tiU they had made excavations as large as badger earths ; then a little water trickled in to reward their labours, and they went to work more energetically. In an hour they had 374 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. got down several feet, and the stream commenced to flow ; farther they went till they reached gritty sandstone. Here they stopped, for if you break this, and the fact is worth knowing, though few are aware of it, the precious fluid will run away. To these holes an hour's rest was given, when in each apartment was discovered thirty or forty gaUons of water. I consequently had my drink and dear little Buby hers. Then I left to hunt, the boys having strict orders to attend most carefully to the watering of the bullocks, which were now standing round the excavations looking as if they envied every drop of water which I and my horse swallowed. In less than an hour I found giraffes ; they were so remarkably tame that I do not know how many I could have killed, but I was satisfied with a cow. On my way home I encountered a large herd of the grandest of all antelopes, the eland ; like the previous game they were so careless of their safety that I might have, vrith facility, made my 'choice of the herd. One reason for my getting near them with such ease was that the brush, all mapaney, was very thick- and tall, fairly interspersed with larger timber, thus affording me every opportunity of, unperceived, approaching the wild animals. When I returned to camp I found my cattle feeding, a sure indication that their thirst had been sated, for unless it is quenched these wilful beasts will not touch a blade of grass. As the pasture was good here I resolved to put off my departure till the next afternoon, and I informed my people of the intended delay. In the afternoon I again went out for a stroll, and came across a great number of baobab trees. They grew generally at a distance of several hundred yards apart, and at the present time were covered with fruit. The "THE CHIEF OF A REBELLIOUS CLAN" 375 largest of these immense vegetable productions that I had yet seen was here found. I carefully measured its circumference and found it — almost incredible, I acknow ledge—one hundred and forty feet in circumference. Truly it was a giant ; like others that I have observed, it was hoUow, scooped out till but a mere shell remained, and against that fires had been lighted in numerous places by the erratic Massaras. The abundance of game in the vicinity causes me to conclude that there is water near which my people know nothing of ; further, that it is so scarce in front of us that all the beasts have been driven in, and thus congregated here. The spoor of hons along the dry river-bed is very abundant ; still there is so much prey for them, in the shape of their natural food, that I do not apprehend any danger from their attack. About sunset I viewed large numbers of Namaqua partridge flying north-west, also flocks of doves, a certain indication that open water is to be found in that direction. If I^were not almost broken down by my fall from Buby, and by another and severer accident, also with fever, and had not good grounds for believing that my people were disaffected, I could remain here for an indefinite time. My camping-place is very pretty — a wide long grassy glade, terminating in the river-bank, and fringed with beautiful trees, the meruley being most numerous. Umganey gathers their fruit in pailfuls, to make a drink for my parched lips. It is very refreshing, and superior to anything of the kind I know. What a pity no one tries to cultivate it, so as to reduce the stone, and increase the edible portion ! Disaffection has been apparent among my people for some time. As to its origin, I am entirely ignorant ; and, worse than all, I believe Umganey to be infected 376 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. with the disease. Of course, not speaking the language of my people is a great drawback ; and they again are equally ignorant of mine. Thus I may frequently mis understand them. Again the fever, and the debility resulting from it, with other causes, have made me very fractious, and make me give way to temper when any thing occurs through their negligence. Among the natives of this land no greater mistake can be committed, for they construe it into evidence of weakness, and weak I truly was. They possess the most wonderful imper turbable tempers themselves, and look at a want of it in others as the essence of childishness. This evening I had cause to complain. I went to bed early, after seeing the fires made up, the cattle secure, and, in fact, everything in ship-shape order, giving Umganey parting instructions to see that more wood was collected. About midnight I was awoke by Buby jerking against her halter, which was secured around the upper felloe of one of the hind wheels. Turning out to see what was the matter, I discovered that the fires had burned down to only a few coals, and that there was not a branch near to revive them with. I caUed for Umganey, the driver, and foreloper, in suc cession, but received no answer. Again and again I shouted, but with the same result. That they had deserted en masse was my first thought; but whether this was true or not, the fires must be replenished. A decayed mimosa I had observed in the early part of the day about a hundred yards off. To it I directed my steps, and commenced wrenching off the limbs. When engaged only a feAv minutes in this occupation, I was stung in the right wrist by a scorpion. The pain was intense. Still, I could not desist, firewood must be had IN WANT OF A RIOT ACT. 377 at all hazards. Again I got hold of a branch to break off, and again I was stung on the fleshy side of the hand. This treatment did not improve my temper, as may be imagined. Having revived the fires to my satisfaction, I sat down, and considered what I was to do if my people had really run away. A movement among the bushes on the ridge, and a strong effort of Buby to break her halter, caused me to look round. Nothing was visible, yet I felt convinced some wild animal was near. So to make things doubly secure, I went into the wagon, and got both lanterns, and hung them over the mare's head, and then resumed my previous occupation. In the distance I heard the soughing, or deep breath ing of a lion, but consoled myself with the thought that the beast was retiring, or would not make that noise. I listened for the sound to be repeated, but instead of hearing it again, faint lullalooing, as if of Kaffirs enjoy ing themselves, fell on my ear. Again and again I heard it distinctly, and further imagined that I could see the reflection of a large fire in the distance. This accounted for the servants having left — doubtless they were attend ing some convivialities; but where came their hosts from? I had not seen evidence of the presence of a native the whole day. However, lions or no lions, I was determined summarily to put a stop to their establishing so reprehensible a precedent as this of walking off in the middle of the night, and leaving the encampment and my belongings to take care of themselves. So I took my double gun, and marched off to seek the revellers. The task was not nearly so easy as an ticipated — several smaU ravines and a dry crack had to be passed ; brush and fallen trees impeding my progress. 378 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. At length I overcame aU obstacles, and walked into the middle of the merry-makers. Among them were several strange Massara and their women; while on the fires was cooking a plentiful supply of elephant meat. As may be expected, I did not waste much time or use much ceremony in ordering my employes to the wagon. Umganey at once arose to do my bidding, the driver and another Kaffir sulkily followed his example ; but the foreloper sat stiU, looking me impudently in the face. I went towards him to hasten his movements, but I sup pose, thinking I was going to lay hold of him, he jumped up and fled into the bush, from which he emerged in a few minutes, with an assegai in his hand. I spoke to him, pointed to the wagon (kiloe), and waved my hand, indicating that I wished him to go there. In reply he brandished his weapon. None of the others interposed, but looked on sullenly. It was a trying moment. Should I shoot him down or not ? He was guilty of breach of duty, insubordination, and now threatened my life. But it is a fearful thing to take upon oneself the responsibility of launching a human being into eternity, even when one's own life is in danger, so I desisted from further proceedings, and, followed by the three others, returned to my encamp ment — not a moment too soon, for I found the horse down, and partially strangled by the halter, and all the dogs and cattle in such alarm, that it took me quite half an hour to get them back to a proper state of quiet. What disturbed the camp that night I never knew positively ; although the spoor of a black rhinoceros was found in the vicinity next morning. Yet I do not think it could have caused the uneasiness, for animals of this A SHOT AT A BLACK RHINOCEROS. 379 kind may dash into an encampment to gratify a mo mentary fit of passion, but would not spend their time idling about it. Next morning at sunrise, with a couple of the newly- arrived bushmen, I went off to view some high coppies that lay to the north-east. They appeared like the debris of several immense quarries, carelessly thrown upon the plain. Here [lay at hand the material to build a city without the trouble of quarrying. Frequently through out this country this phenomenon occurs, and I am at a loss to account for it, unless it is caused by an upheaval produced by earthquakes. On approaching the first coppy one of the bushmen became excited, and pointed out something, then his companion followed suit ; but for aU that my eyes refused to see what theirs did. These children of the desert have wonderfully sharp vision, being in that respect very much the superior of the white man. Advancing about fifty yards they again stopped. Taking the line that they pointed out, all I could distinguish was what appeared to me a large black stone. But the stone moved ; it was a rhinoceros. I was off the mare in a moment, and leaving her with the bridle hanging between her legs, stalked forward to get a clear shot. The game, which had been lying doAvn, rose on its fore legs as a fat pig might do, and carelessly looked about. Doubtless owing to its hearing or wonderful gift of scent, it had some idea that intruders were in the neighbourhood, yet it did not display the slightest indication of fear. It certainly had not seen us, but with these animals that is not always necessary to inducethemtotake the initiative and commence hostilities. I was now within sixty paces, and had a good tree at my back to take shelter in, if my two barrels did not 380 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. effectually do their work. I aimed at the thick part of the neck in front of the shoulder, and about two hands beneath the line of the withers. My gun was one of the eight-bores, which, with seven drams of Curtis and Harvey behind the bullet, was a most destructive weapon ; but it required some substance in the shooter to resist the recoil. Taking a very steady, careful aim, I fired. The bullet told loudly, and the large swinish- looking beast simply shoved his fore legs out in front of him, and apparently settled down for another nap. There was no hurry, no alarm in the action, and I was aston ished. Beloading, I thought I would try if the brute treated the contents of the left-hand barrel so cavalierly. No more notice of it was taken than if it had been a mosquito ; even the rhinoceros bird moved about its master's back as intent on his avocation as he had doubtlessly been for many a previous week. Being again prepared for anything that might occur, I approached ; the bushmen preceding me by some dis tance ; they took one or two suspicious glances, and then ran up, not, as I expected, to throw their assegais, but actually to get on the carcase. The beast was dead, killed dead in an instant, a little flowing blood on the nostrils and lips — save the heat of the body — being the only indication that it had so lately lived. Following the edge of one of the coppies, I shot a pair of klep springers, the most graceful of the numerous graceful animals to be found in this region. Their flesh I did not require, but the hair of their hides would be useful to stuff my saddle with. Constant sweat and use have made that indispensable article sit so close to the mare's back that I have been lately obliged to use a piece of folded blanket underneath it — an awkward A BEAUTIFUL KOODOO. 381 thing at the best of times, and especially in a warm climate. Abundant evidences of the late visits of elephants were to he found in every direction, and as I surmised that they were not distant, I thought I would take the trouble to look them up, but this fever is a fearful curse, it enervates the system so, that resist it as much as you choose, and resolve as frequently as you like not to give in, you stUl discover yourself making excuses for avoiding exertion in spite of all your resolutions. I rode up one of the coppies some distance, then left the mare in charge of one of the men, and taking the other vrith me, clambered round to a more inaccessible portion to watch the gambols of a troop of the graceful little grey monkeys so common in this part of the world. They are certainly a wonderful burlesque on the human race ; deprive them of their tails, and they would be perfect imitations. While sitting here silent, so as not to disturb their antics, a beautiful koodoo, as large as a well-fed two- year-old heifer, walked out of the surrounding trees, and approached within fifty yards. The white transverse lines on its back were very wide and unusually distinct ; its head was graced with a magnificent pair of horns. However much I should have liked to have these at home, the trouble of carrying them so many thousand miles was not commensurate with the reward. The cool, indolent manner in which this animal walked about was very amusing. If it had been a family pet in a home paddock it would probably have conducted itself in the same Way. I hope it still lives and enjoys life as it then appeared to do. As I intended trecking in the afternoon, I left this 382 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. fascinating place, where all is as nature formed it, un sullied and beautiful. On my way back to the wagon I saw giraffes in the distance, and although on capital gaUoping ground, I left them alone. A party were despatched for a portion of the rhino ceros, who returned about three o'clock, when I sent for the cattle to commence the dreaded journey. CHAPTEB XXXIII. OUR SUFFERINGS IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Learning to Labour and to Wait — Utter Loneliness — Foreloper's Insolence — Doubts about Umganey — Looking for my Oxen — Trecking by Night — Camp attacked by Rhinoceros— Covered by a Blanket — -A very cool Morning — A beautiful Spot — My Cattle unattended to — I fell the Driver and Foreloper — Foreloping in Sand — -No Water to be had — Cattle maddened at the Smell of my small private Supply — Ackerman ungovernable — He knocks me to the Ground — Umganey UI — Poor Bob wounded — Poor Porty's Hind-legs Broken — Dire Extremities — Water ! Water ! — Saved — A Young Boer, Tra veller — His Misfortunes — His Saulted Horse slain by a Lion — Porty not Dead — Drinking-Places — Wild Animals quenching their Thirst — Elephant and Rhinoceros at the Water — Lion's Voice — Joined by Macalacas and Mashoonas — Bonty's Head cut open by some wild Beast. It is one thing to send for your bullocks, and quite another to get them. With Umganey I had left orders for all to be prepared to move at three, but not the slightest arrangement had been made to do so. I fretted, and fumed, and smoked, but all was of no avail, the cattle did not arrive till half an hour before dark, and then they had not been watered, so in spite of myself I was compelled to delay my departure for another day. This I should not have so much objected to, as the locality was all that could be desired ; but it is ever disagreeable to find yourself subordinate to your servants, instead of being their master. To wait instead of being waited on is, to say the least, eminently distasteful. Again, my fever was due on the morrow, which would probably incapacitate me from taking an active 384 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. part in supervising my affairs, for as far as in my power lies I trust to no one. Again, another strong, I may say all-powerful, reason for travelling was — weU, the reader may feel surprise at my reason, but whether or not I will tell it — it was once more to be among people who understood what I said, and whose language I could comprehend. If Morris had not broken doAvn, and in consequence been compelled to return home, we might have remained here for an indefinite period. I could have wished for nothing better ; he might have killed the game, and I should have felt happy in his enjoyment of the sport ; but to be alone, with no one to talk to, no one to tell what you have done, what adventures you have gone through, to sit by your fire alone at night, to keep your watch, to eat your meals Avithout a person to speak to, is lonely work indeed, so lonely, so duU, so sad, that if a man went mad under the cir cumstances, my verdict would be, " What might have been expected." I am not rich, I have not much to give, but I would have parted with that little to have had Morris with me. Why the cattle were not up I have discovered to be due to the foreloper, who had made up his mind that he would have another night here. I am powerless to prevent it, so must make a virtue of necessity. The scoundrel has again been most insolent, and threatened me with his assegai. May the Supreme Being give me strength not to — I hate to write the words — take the provoker's life. The temptation is strong, I may be wrong in resisting it, and it may cost me my own in consequence ; but then after all it is but for one very weary to lay down his life, and for ever be at rest. Umganey's conduct has hurt me, but I must not TRECKING BY NIGHT. 385 judge him harshly; he knows but a few words of English, and might possibly have misunderstood some thing I have said or done ; even Arith that excuse I never thought to see him stand by inert and indisposed to interfere when my life was threatened. I would not have served him so though the odds had beenatribeto one. That night all the Massara bushmen came up and camped beside my people ; there was meat and to spare for all, so they made a night of it, and lullaloed to their hearts' content. As no wild animal would approach. whUe such a turmoil was taking place, I turned in early, took a heavy dose of quinine and chloral, and slept all night. In the morning I awoke refreshed, and felt almost myself again. Again at the time appointed no cattle were forth coming ; I jumped on the mare and went to seek them, and the sun was -only an hour high when I discovered them feeding in a ravine. Without more ado I drove them up. Yet they must be watered before going into the yoke, and that was a matter of time, when each animal had to be served separately, and from a pit thirty feet deep. The sun had gone down, it was what we caU in Scotland " daylight gone," when the beasts were brought to the wagon. There was nothing for it but to yoke. I saw each ox put in his place, gave the order to treck, handed the mare to Umganey, and taking a lantern in my hand, led the way through ivory needle thorn and mapaney brush directly towards the southern cross. Slowly, certainly, and, I may add, sadly, I struggled forward for five long hours till the brush gave place to open velt. From the stars I judged it to be midnight when we outspanned. z 386 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Plenty of meat hung to the wagon, and as on the previous evening the boys, foreloper and all, for that worthy had turned up when he found me resolved to go, built an enormous fire close by, and between eating and shouting kept me awake. Towards daylight this was stiU going on, when I heard several exclamations of terror. I looked out of the front of the wagon. The boys were flying helter-skelter everywhere, and a rhino ceros was trotting backwards and forwards across the fire, tossing carosses, skins, cooking-utensils, and blankets about as if they each contained some body. From England I had brought several red blankets, one of which in a weak moment I gave to Umganey. As it lay beside the fire it seemed to particularly take the fancy of the irate beast. At it he went, got his horn weU into it, but there it seemed to stick, the more he shook his head the more it seemed tightly to wrap itself around it, entirely hiding the eyes. A struggle or two more was made, but still without avail ; and the rhinoceros, ever grotesque, and more so under present circumstances than ever I saw it before, with a snort, bound, and kick started off as hard as he could go for the sombre shadows of the forest, with a two-ounce bullet behind his shoulder. How he escaped knocking that ornamental headpiece of his against a tree, an accident which did not occur as long as he was in sight, was truly wonderful. In the morning he was found dead. Before daylight I turned out to see the cattle yoked; it was very cool, my teeth almost chattered as I went round about directing ; exercise and employ ment soon corrected this, so again I headed the cavalcade to our next halting-place, as pretty a spot as can well be imagined. A ridge of hills appeared to bar our way : INSOLENCE, LIKE VIRTUE, MEETS ITS REWARD. 387 when we got close to it I discovered an entrance (caUed Foort by the Boers) or passage. Having threaded this for more than a mile, a most beautiful level plain of about a thousand acres was entered, shut in on every side by hiUs. This valley-like plain was covered with baobab and meruley trees, while spoor of nearly aU descriptions of game proclaimed it a favourite resort. Here let us rest, and we outspanned. The driver and a big Kaffir whom I caUed William came to me, Umganey to the best of his ability acted as interpreter. Their proposal was that they thought they could find water enough for the mare and cattle a little distance off if I would permit them to take them. I readUy gave my consent. After breakfast I took my rifle and wandered off to see as much as possible of the beauty of the place. About noon I returned. Two hours passed and there was no sign of the cattle returning, so I went in search of them. They were soon found, but it was evident from their hollow flanks that they had not had a drop of water. I drove them up so as to be ready to yoke when the absent ones returned. This they did soon after. To my surprise I found the mare Buby — the animal I so much loved — who never would have borne the name she did but for her numerous good qualities, reminding me of her whom to know was to love — was severely cut about the neck, ¦wid contused nearly all over the head. The driver was insolent, the foreloper jeered me. I could stand it no longer — my patience was worn out ; so, like a bird of prey, I rushed upon them. A yoke- key was in my hand; I struck, meaning to hurt, and in an instant both lay stunned at my feet. When they recovered, along with the Kaffir WiUiam, they walked z 2 388 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. off, and left me to get through the Great Thirst Waste the best way I could. Umganey was with me, it is true, but his countenance plainly indicated that his sympathy was Avith the enemy. Delay was now impossible, so he and I inspanned the bullocks, he foreloping and I driAing. Ackerman was on his worst behaviour ; he most determinedly ran into every tree that was near. The axe conse quently was seldom out of my hands ; but I did not shirk my labour, so that before dark we had accomplished a long treck. Next day Umganey and I trecked and foreloped in turns : the labour of the latter task no one can imagine. The sand was loose, and came over the uppers of my boots at every stride, whUe the parched huUocks moved as if every step would be their last. Toward evening I discovered that the runaways were foUowing me ; their desire to obtain food was doubtless the reason. So I told Umganey that on no account were they to have any of my provisions, and that neglect on his part to attend .to what I said would bring upon him my severest displeasure. Worn out and heart-sick, soon after dark I lay down in the Avagon : the cover by this time had almost en tirely been worn or torn off it. I slept longer than anticipated, and was awoke by the noise of voices speaking. Shoving nry hand under the piUow, I secured my revolver, and quietly raising myself, looked out, and there were the Avretches, Avho cared not whether I lived or died, eating my supphes. Again I had a mind to shoot, but did not ; instead, however, I sprang from the wagon. In an instant the driver and foreloper were into the bushes, and out of sight, the big Kaffir sur- SUFFERINGS OF MY CATTLE. 389 rendering at discretion. He had done nothing but leave, and this doubtless at the instigation of the others, so I determined to have no words with him then, but wait till I could bring him before his chief in the kotla. Next day, we aU took turns driving and foreloping. The latter was too hard work for one person to continue constantly at. By night we reached a large vley, where we hoped to find water. Alas ! it was dry ; and then thirty mUes more had to be traversed before there was the shghtest possibility of getting any. The trials we aU had that night were fearful. Slowly, almost by inches, the wagon toiled on, for the sand was deep enough to cover the feUoes of the wheels. The poor oxen ! my heart bled for them. Their throats were so parched they could not low, while their insides produced a grating noise, as if two hard substances were being rubbed together. The boys, with the usual im providence of their respective races, had used or wasted their supply of water, but I still had a little remaining in my fachey. I could not spare them any, for I had aheady denied myself drink, that I might sponge out Buby's mouth, so as to reduce her sufferings as much as possible. At midnight we outspanned for a couple of hours. We lit only one fire, and, dejected and doAvn- spirited, cowered over it. We had no fear of wild animals. Here, so far from water, they were not likely to be found. Whether or no, I do not think any of us cared very much if they did pay us a visit. Before trecking, I went to my fachey to draw a small tin of water to divide between the mare and myself. The oxen smelt it, and became in a moment like mad animals. Shouts and blows reduced them aU 390 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. to some semblance of discipline, except old Ackerman ; he reared, pulled backwards, and rushed forward. Pacify him we could not, so at length he broke his reim, and rushed madly about the wagon. At length he discovered the vessel that contained the water, and endeavoured to knock it down. I went to the rescue, for I feared the faU of the small keg would cause it to be stove in, and the precious fluid lost ; but the mad ox turned on me, knocked me down Avith a severe blow on the head, given by the side of the nigh horn, and afterwards tramped on my leg. I only saved myself by having presence of mind to crawl under the wagon. It took half an hour to secure that crazy brute, and even then, tied vrith a double reim, it struggled so fearfully, that several times it threw itself down. Again we trecked till daybreak, when we outspanned for two hours ; but the cattle would not eat the dry herbage around them. Umganey was too iU to forelope, so I made him get into the wagon, and took the leading reim myself. If any one could have seen me, toiling and hauling the half-dead cattle through the heavy sand, pouring with perspiration and hid in a cloud of dust, they must have pitied me, even supposing them to be the hardest-hearted people in the world. But if we suffered, and the cattle suffered, the poor dogs appeared to endure the ordeal worse. They ran about like creatures that were bhnd, recognised no one, and were momentarily in. danger of getting run over. About ten o'clock I heard a yell : I dropped the leading reim, and ran back. The hind wheel had passed over one of poor faithful tried Bob's legs, and broken it. I lifted him in my arms and placed him on AN END TO OUR MISERY. 391 my bed in the wagon. He would not stop there, so I had to leave him to hobble on the best way he could, and retake my place in front. I had long resolved what to do if the wagon came to a standstill — namely, ride on Avith the cattle, and leave the Kaffir to take charge of them, and bring back as much water as I could carry. Several times I thought the emergency had arrived to adopt this, but through my hauling, and the Kaffir using his whip, we continued to crawl slowly forward. Another yeU. This time it is poor little Porty, the gift of Mr. Mackenzie — both hind legs broken. As she lay on the road, incapable of further effort, I thought it best to have her destroyed, yet I had not the heart to take her hfe. So we moved forward about a couple of hundred yards, when I sent the Kaffir back with his assegai to do the deed I could not myself do. Soon he returned. I asked him no questions ; I wished to know nothing of the termination of my favourite's life. Again I hauled and puUed, the perspiration blinding me, the dust choking me, while my throat was so dry that I could not swallow. The cattle must go on to water alone, another mile they cannot accomplish ; sending them forward is our only salvation, when every ox commenced to step out, then to walk fast, then trot, then gallop. The dogs, even Bob on his three legs, rush on ahead, and in an hour afterwards we are outspanned, each bullock standing up to his middle gulping doAvn filthy water that lay in a hole in a dry river-bed. But foul as this liquid was, all seemed to enjoy it ; the oxen filled themselves to such an extent that as they moved up the bank it ran in streams out of their mouths. The dogs lay in it, and lapped and lapped again, while Umganey 392 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and the Kaffir drank and washed and paddled in it for upwards of an hour. To appreciate water thoroughly one has to go through an ordeal like the foregoing. Such an experience of the Great Thirst Land, although lasting only a few days, will take years from a man's life. Beside this pool of water I found a young Boer out- spanned. My woe-begone appearance, my exhausted cattle, and last, though not least, my coverless wagon, brought him to me full of feelings of sympathy. But he, poor fellow, had lately suffered some buffeting ; pos sibly it made him more able to appreciate trouble endured by others. To some men it might appear a trifle what he had to complain of; to those who know the people of the northern portion of the Transvaal who hve by elephant-hunting quite the reverse. He was en route to his favourite shooting-ground, doubtless expecting to return in six months or a year with ivory and ostrich -feathers enough to start him in life, when yesterday in broad daylight the lions had puUed down and kUled his saulted horse. Without it, it was useless to go forward, and if he returned he had not the means of purchasing another. His trip was ruined, and indefinitely he would have to wait till circumstances would enable him to replace this valuable accessory to his means of a subsistence. Possibly he had made up his mind that this was to be his last expedition, and perhaps some fair-haired Boer damsel was even now counting the days when her affianced husband would return Arith wealth sufficient to stock a farm and make her his bride. Yes, the poor fellow — stalwart and manly as he was — could scarcely hide the tears that unbidden rose to his ON THE WATCH AGAINST WILD BEASTS. 393 eyes. I felt for him — sincerely sympathised with him. He informed me that there was a perfect troop of lions about this water, that they were round his cattle aU night, and he and the boys had in consequence been kept the whole time in attendance on the fires to prevent their attacking his team. Not liking such news I determined to treck at once, and get a few mUes farther on my route before night closed in. My attendants evinced every reluctance to such a step, but I insisted, and had my way. We had scarcely travelled a mUe when poor little Porty on his broken stumps overtook us. The Kaffir had not obeyed my instructions, so the wretched sufferer, strong in affection for his master, enduring the most excruciating agony, had foUowed along the tedious, sandy road. The injuries were such that it appeared impossible that anything bring could accomplish such a task, so I resolved to try to save her life. I placed her in the wagon, and tied her there, she submitting to the operation with a very bad grace. An hour after sundown we were outspanned upon an open velt, Arith plenty of firewood stored for the night's consumption, and the guns ready for immediate service. William the Kaffir was a plucky fellow and a good shot, so I trusted him with one of the double barrels, and he and I took watch, turn about during the night. When water becomes scarce in these thirsty plains, the whole of the wild animals that inhabit them con gregate around any pool that may be left, for with very few exceptions aU have to drink once in twenty-four hours. The lions, which follow the game, thus are led 394 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. to these drinking-places not only to assuage their thirst, but to satisfy their hunger. To watch one of these pools at night, as I did in the northern Massara country, is a grand sight, and one never to be forgotten. The naturalist and the sportsman can here see sights that will astonish them, and cause them to wonder at the wonderful instincts possessed by the animal kingdom. That the Creator has ordered all things well we know, but the minute details to which they have been reduced is seldom noted except by those who live not the life of the busy trading world, such as wander into those portions of the earth undisturbed by the presence of man. At such watering-places the small antelopes invariably drink first, the larger later on, and vrith them the zebras and buffaloes. After these come the giraffes, closely followed by the rhinoceros, and next the elephant, who never attempts to hide his approach — conscious of his strength — but trumpets forth a warning to all whom it may concern that he is about to satisfy his thirst. The only animal that does not give place to the elephant is the rhinoceros ; obstinate, headstrong, and piglike, he may not court danger, but assuredly he does not avoid it. The elephant may drink by his side, but must not interfere vrith him, for he is quick to resent an insult, and I am assured that when one of these battles takes place the rhinoceros is invariably the victor. The elephant is large, of gigantic power, but the other is far more active, while the formidable horn that terminates his nose is a dreadful weapon when used with the force that he has the power to apply to it. I have been told on trustworthy authority that a rhinoceros in one of those blind fits of fury to which they are so subject, attacked THE VOICE OF THE LION. 395 a large wagon, inserted his horn betAveen the spokes of the wheel, and instantly overturned it, scattering the contents far and wide, and afterwards injuring the vehicle to such an extent as to render it useless. The lion is not tied to time in drinking. After it feeds it comes to water, but it never would dare to inter fere with the rhinoceros or the elephant. Where the buffalo exists in numbers it is the principal prey of the lion ; in other localities antelope and chiefly the zebra are its food. A strange circumstance connected with the lion is, that it is almost impossible to tell where he is when you hear his voice. When roaring loudly he places his head to the ground, gradually raising it as he diminishes the power of his voice. Although I cannot say that I recognise anything terrible in the lion's voice, many other people do, and I have been in the company of persons who became completely demorahsed while it lasted. That this animal's voice makes the earth vibrate is a fact. The peculiarity I have aUuded to of it being diffi cult to distinguish where the king of beasts is by his voice is said to be utilised in this way -. their prey hear it, and to avoid the destroyer rush into his grasp. A Bechuana hunter of great experience told me this in presence of many of his countrymen, and there are no closer observers living of the animal world amid which they reside than these people. We trecked next day, and made satisfactory progress. At noon I had occasion to turn back a few hundred yards on the trail, and I found, to my astonishment, the spoor of several lions, whose treck was over the bullocks', and, therefore, must have been placed there since we 396 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. passed. Surprised, yet desirous of finding out whether we were being foUowed by the brutes, I went several hundred yards farther, and became assured such was the case. Beturning, I informed Umganey and William the Kaffir of my discovery ; there was nothing to be appre hended from them by daylight all agreed, but at night — and we should have to treck the greater portion of it, or we would not reach water on the morrow — we should have to be additionally careful. A little piece of luck here occurred ; we were over taken by a party of Macalacas and Mashoonas going to the Diamond-fields. For food they were Avilling to accompany us and give us any assistance required. Thus I got a foreloper and a man to lead the mare, with several others that could be utilised in any manner desirable. Our first night-treck was commenced immediately after sunset. One of the new people walked in front of the foreloper with a lantern, Buby was led behind the wagon by another, then the rest of the people, Umganey just behind them with the other lantern, and myself last, armed with my double gun. That the lions were about us all night I am certain, for the bullocks and the mare were constantly shoAring signs of great alarm, and poor Bonty, who happened to leave the road, got a blow from something that cut his head open, causing him to sing out most emphatically, and seek the shelter of the wagon, which he carefully avoided leaving till break of day. As the journey was a short one to the next drinking- place — fourteen or fifteen miles — I went on, leaving instructions to be followed by the wagon. The day was OSTRICHES WARY. 397 very close and sultry, and the sand on the road exceed ingly heavy. To the left, on a large open space, which until lately had been a large vley of water, a number of ostriches were feeding, but at such a distance that I did not deem it expedient to disturb them, more especiaUy as there was no cover in the vicinity to assist me in a stalk. Ostriches are so wary, and their long necks give them such a control of distance, that vrithout shelter it is perfectly useless to try and get within a range in which there is a probability of doing execution. CHAPTEB XXXIV. THE LION OF THE GREAT THIRST LAND. No Water — Ruby's Faintness — Her Splendid Behaviour — Meeting with a Lion — His Lordship turns tail — We oome upon Water — Meet with English Traders outspanned — A Pleasant Time — Dine with one another — My Wagon and theirs — ExceUent Feed — A Lion within easy reach of me — Prefer not to be snapped up — Bayed at by Curtin's Dog — Oxen prepared against Attack — Strange Mashoona Custom —We Part — About the Baobab -The species of Lions — Black-maned — Yellow-nianed — Their Characters— Maneless — The Lion of the Great Thirst Land — North and South Africa. First one place and then another where I had hoped to discover at least a small quantity of water I found dried up, the bottoms baked as hard as stone. The last place I knew of, about eight miles farther on, might also be in the same state. The question Avas whether poor little Buby would stand the ordeal, for she suffered much. Yet she has not evinced any symptom of weakness, stiU it has struck me twice during the last hour that a certain giving beneath the saddle spoke plainly that there Avas a limit beyond which even the very best and pluckiest specimens of horseflesh could not go. However, of two evils choose the lesser, and it appeared to me that to break down looking for water was better than to give up and patiently Avait for a release from all our earthly troubles through thirst. Bhinoceros spoor Avas so abundant that I felt con vinced that Avater Avas near if I only knew where to look for it ; but I was too weary, and my little mare too used HEAVY TOIL IN SANDY SOIL. 399 up, to make experiments, so I resolved to push on tiU I reached the vley, where I anticipated finding it. The sand along the track was so fearfully loose, such as you sometimes find by the coast, that it seems to pass away backwards under the pressure of your foot, and cut short the length of your pace by one-half, so I took to walking untU we got at least on better ground. This was reached in about a mile and a half, and, without exception, it was as wearisome a tramp for the distance as ever I experienced. But, thank goodness! there is an end to aU things, and at length I had the satisfaction of feeling firm soU beneath my feet. As the day was not yet old, and desiring to rest Buby, I thought I would tramp on a little farther, so passing my arm through the reins I led the way, she foUoAring close on my heels. Among her many good qualities this was one she possessed, most valuable in a hunter's horse, and even when I would halt to shoot she would stop and never jerk back, as too many vrill, to the cer tain destruction of the aim of the marksman. Thus we had gone on possibly a mile from where we had left the sand, when I felt almost an imperceptible tightening of the rein across my shoulder ; I turned round to see, if possible, what could be the cause, when I observed Buby's eyes very much expanded, and gazing to our left front; foUowing the direction indicated, about sixty yards in advance, and close to the road, I discovered a large male lion, with a magnificent dark mane. He had already discovered our approach, and was standing up, switching his flanks, yet looking irresolute whether to retire or advance. While hesitating what was the best course of action to pursue, the king of 400 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. beasts thought to intimidate me, for with a quiet, mea sured step he advanced, showing his teeth, and giving utterance to a short, smothered growl. Cocking my gun, I waited, resolved not to fire tiU the brute was within thirty yards, when, if the first bullet did not do its work, the second would be delivered at a shorter range. His majesty, however, disapproved of the posi tion of affairs, halted, looked round to see if the way were open for retreat, turned, and trotted quietly off, every few strides casting a look over his shoulder, to assure himself that he was not followed. Had the range not been so great, I should have fired ; but possibly it was better I did not do so, for if I had only wounded the animal, it certainly would have been a case for the second barrel to decide whether he or I was to be killed. This little contretemps seemed to put fresh energy into myself and mare, for when I got into the saddle, of her own accord she managed to get up a canter, Avhich she retained for a couple of miles. The vley could not be very distant now, and I was commencing to wonder that it had not been already reached, when I heard the tinkling of ox-bells, and soon after saw a large mob of cattle, in charge of some Mata- bele herdsmen. Approaching them, I found one under stood a few words of English, so I told him not to go in the direction in which the cattle were feeding, as I had just seen a lion. On that the herdsmen headed the cattle in the direction I was pursuing. At length I recognised that the forest was becoming less dense, the renewed energy of my, mare told me that she smelt water, and was anxious to reach it, so giving her a slack rein, she broke into a gallop, and in a few JOLLY, GOOD FELLOWS. 401 minutes after was up to her knees, gulping down the craved-for liquid with apparently insatiable avidity. I had now time to look about, and with pleasure discovered that three wagons were outspanned close by, so I turned my steps towards them. The first I came to, the proprietor, a young Englishman of the name of Curtin, came forth and welcomed me, begging that I would become his guest till my own conveyance came up. With gratitude I accepted the kindness, so dis mounted, and knee-haltered my horse. I then went to the next wagon, in which I found the proprietor, Mr. Catenby, who would hear of no refusal, but that he should become my host ; but having explained how a previous arrangement would prevent this, he sent over word to the gentleman I had spoken to first, to say that he also would be one of his guests. The third wagon belonged to a Boer, who could not speak English — a fine, tall, handsome specimen of a man, with the reputa tion of being an exceUent hunter. I felt so thoroughly tired, that from sheer exhaustion I threw myself on the ground ; but Mr. Catenby and Mr. Curtin, kind, good-hearted feUows, produced a glass of brandy, purloined from their small stock reserved for medicinal purposes, the result of which was that in a quarter of an hour I was myself again. This unexpected meeting was so pleasant, that we agreed that as it Avas Saturday afternoon, all should postpone trecking till next evening ; and as I was to be their guest to-night, they would be mine at an early hour on the morrow. Before sunset my wagon arrived, so travel-stained and worn that it looked a sad, sorry affair when con trasted with their smart, painted, snow-white covered A A 402 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. ones. WiU their appearance be the same when, in a year hence, if no casualty has happened to their owners, they retrace their steps to civilisation ? It is doubtful indeed — more than doubtful. As the ground on the edge of the vley was all occu pied, my people had to take up an outside position, and, in consequence, I gave strict orders for an unusuaUy large supply of firewood to be laid in ; with the far end of the treck-tow made fast, and the oxen secured with short reims to their yokes. The sun had not long been set when Mr. Curtin's man came to borrow my chairs, and announce that dinner was ready. We followed him over to his wagon, and just as the gloaming was quickly fading away into darkness we sat down to our meal, with a smaU clear fire between us, as the evenings were getting cool. Our feed was excellent — it was a stew made out of kid, and thickened with rice and onions. It was our only dish, truly, but our appetites were not fastidious — we were hungry, and could eat so much of this homely fare, that we had no desire for entree or dessert. A few bushes extended from the woods to within ten or twelve yards of where I sat. To this my back was turned ; while Mr. Curtin was seated on my left, Mr. Catenby on the right. At length our meal was finished, and the plates had been removed. Then the soother of all our troubles, the consoler' in all our difficulties — the pipe — was produced, loaded, and brought into service. Our tin beakers were again replenished, for I had ran sacked my supplies, that I might add something at least better than water — one mass of animalculae and filth — to the feast. Our tongues became loosened ; times hke these, and NOT TO BE TAKEN ABACK. 403 associates thus unexpectedly met, are ever the cause of conversation becoming fluent, and a pleasant night being passed. Thus we were enjoying ourselves, when I heard — well, a low, heavy, suppressed breathing, and a rustling, as if some large body were forcing a passage through the bushes. My ears of late had been too well accustomed to such sounds not to know what they indi cated, so not to alarm the others, I quietly asked them to excuse my stepping over the fire between them, as I vrished to turn my face in the other direction. I did so, and put doAvn my stool. ¦ Both my new friends looked at me with surprise — then one of them remarked, " You had some object in that ; you did it in such a methodical manner." To this I agreed, and added, " There is a lion behind me, and if he meditates mischief, I would sooner be attacked in front than in rear." "You must be mistaken, you are most assuredly deceived, it would never think of coming so near our fires." And at this moment a large white dog, belonging to Mr. Curtin — a cross between the greyhound and mastiff — rushed from beneath the wagon, where he had been sleeping, dashed into the bush, and commenced to bay some animal, that evidently had no intention of giving way, and which he was unable to attack. We left our seats and retired to the wagon, and under its shelter smoked our pipes to the end ; however, we had not got quite so far in the enjoyment of the weed when the lion, finding himself discovered, got up, walked off a few paces, and then placing his mouth to the ground awoke the sleeping echoes that lurked around the neighbouring coppies. Curtin was tired and went to roost, Catenby came with me to my wagon, because it occupied the point of aa 2 404 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. danger. Willingly my lads piled more fuel on the fires, till the briUiant flames rose several feet from the ground. My new friend and self, with a gun each at hand, took our seats upon the wagon-box, and scarcely had we done so when the roaring recommenced, and was answered in several different directions. My dogs were no use, closer and closer they crouched in their sleeping-places, while the white dog of Mr. Curtin was out baying the marauders, giving indication by his voice and vehemence of the whereabouts of the enemy. But my oxen were a sight to look at ; one by one, when they had heard the dreaded sound, rose from their previously recumbent position and faced towards where they apprehended danger. They had learned by this time to place confidence in man, and that their safety depended upon being in his vicinity ; so they stood, without an effort to break loose, with their smaU ears erect, and their eyes looking as if they would burst from their sockets. At length day broke, and the disappointed carnivora retired to the east, indicating by an occasional growl or suppressed roar that the success of their night's work had not been satisfactory. The spoor in the morning was easily found, and the natives asserted that there were no less than seven in the coterie. A circumstance occurred during the loudest part of the serenade. I have seen the same take place before, but it is sufficiently strange to mention. A Mashoona took a brand from the fire and walked into the woods directly towards the hons. When he had got close to them he waved his fire-stick about his head, and then made a long speech in a very highly-pitched voice. Mr. Catenby, who is conversant with the language, translated CURIOUS CUSTOM OF REBUKING THE LION. 405 it at the time. The words, as nearly as I can remember, were — " 0 mighty lord, why do you come and disturb my cattle, or have you become too old and lazy to hunt, or are you turned woman-hearted ? Go your way, the quagga and hartebeest are yours, the koodoo and the buffalo : they await you while you lose your time here ; leave, I say, or we shall think you no better than the hyaena, whose associate you will become." This man must have gone quite close to the lions, and yet he had no other protection than the glowing coal at the end of a stick not over an inch and a half in diameter. After an early dinner, and a right good one it was, for I had coran and several brace of Namaqua partridge and stein-buck boiled into rags to make soup, we waited for the hour of trecking, I to find my way to Soshong beyond the Bamanwatto Hills, my new friends to treck, treck, treck, till they had passed the northern limits of the Great Thirst Land. But before the moment of parting comes we have still a little time on our hands, which we shaU endeavour to make the most of. Here in this vicinity occur the first specimens to be met with, going from the south, of that mammoth of the vegetable kingdom, the baobab tree, supposed by some to have had its existence prior to the Flood. It is far from a handsome production, resembling, the more I look at it, an inverted beetroot or carrot than anything else I know. Its height is seldom more than eighty or ninety feet, but from the enormous thickness of the stem, and the few branches that it possesses — trees in themselves — it does not look half so high. The fruit has the appearance of an unhusked cocoa- nut, but instead of the exterior being brown it is green, 406 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. and covered with a velvety surface. It is frequently called the cream of tartar tree, because between the seeds there is a pulpy, crystallised-looking substance, which when soaked in water makes an extremely pleasant acid drink. Persons suffering from fever use it, and I am informed derive great benefit from its gentle purgative qualities. The vitality this tree possesses is truly amazing ; you may burn around it, cut the bark through with an axe, and in fact do what you like to it, still it resents aU efforts at its destruction. Its trunk is very frequently hollow, with an opening on one side ; the interior then becomes a dweUing- place for snakes, scorpions, and centipedes. Its upper branches also are a favourite resting-place for birds, from the giant crane and the crested crane to the sociable grosbeak. Thus these trees are a zoological garden on a small scale. The specimen before me measures only eighty feet in circumference — a trifle the reader may say — but one of the boys informs me through Umganey that he has seen plenty twice as big. In the interior of this one fifty men might have found sleeping space. The big trees of California are rather thrown in the shade by the baobab tree. Of lions, as of leopards and zebras, I am certain that there are three distinct species. By asserting this I do not mean to say that the one may not cross or breed with the other. The greyhound or NeAvdbundland will with the pug or turnspit (Avretches which have become fashionable under the name of dachshund, and which a very gullible public have been induced to become purchasers of), yet the cross is a nondescript, and CLASSIFICATION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN LION. 407 represents neither one thing nor the other. By one skiUed in dogs the characteristic marks of both avUI be easUy detected in the bastard offspring, for they are as different from their parents as chalk is from cheese, yet I would not make these nondescripts represent a species. I daresay many wiU differ from me, but the follow ing is the classification I should make of the South African hon : the black-maned, the yeUow-maned, and the maneless. The first animal stands high on his legs, in fact, is the taUest of the race, lightest in the limb, most active and most courageous. I think that this brute hunts for pleasure as weU as profit. I would not say that every day this occurs, but that frequently it is instigated by a love of the chase, and undertakes it or a descent on a bullock train for the sake of the fun that it has in slaughtering; as far as man is concerned, this is the most venturesome and consequently the most to be dreaded. The next is the yeUow-maned hon, an uncouth, great powerful beast, massive in limbs and neck, and enormous in its girth of chest, but always possessed of a hoUow back, and looks extremely weak across the coupling. This animal will attack anything, but it wants hunger to wake him up from his lethargy. Not that he is a coward — far from it — but a lazy beast, who loves his ease, and avUI not take exercise untU compeUed to do so to support the caUs or demands of nature. The first or dark-maned hon A\iU get into a kraal, seize an ox or calf, and take it away Avith him; the second avUI eat it if hungry where slaughtered, and defy fifty men to prevent him. The latter at such a time can 408 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. as easily be shot as a famUiar bullock or horse ; the former is always on the qui vive, and until he is prostrate on the ground, and the white stripe along his belly is conspicuous, look out, for if he has a kick in him and can do mischief he will. The yellow lion will give up hfe in a respectable way, not as a coward, but as one resigned to circum stances. The black-maned will fight on to the bitter end,- even although every effort it makes causes its heart's blood to flow upon the velt, and hastens dissolution. The one, in fact, is the hero who does his best in the fight and succumbs to the odds ; the other is the Malay who runs amuck and buries his creese in what ever approaches him while he possesses a hand to move. But the maneless lion, more like, with the exception of the size of his head, a panther than the others I have spoken of, possesses all the stealth and cunning of the animal he resembles, his habits are possibly more nocturnal, and he is seldom heard to howl. Man he will attack if wounded or coerced, but not under other circumstances ; his activity is immense, and his power commensurate with it. Bushmen say that he will lodge in the lower branches of a tree ; of this I have not had evidence, but these people are keen observers of the animal kingdom, and seldom tell untruths upon the subject. If the Guzerat or maneless lion of India is a distinct species, then its representative in Africa is the same. Your stay-at-home naturalists oppose everything they do not know; but if to them we had to trust for information, we should be as ignorant at the present day as we were a thousand years ago. The Kaffirs and their kindred tribes, who are such KING OF LIONS AND OF BEASTS. 409 admirable practical naturalists that they can imitate the actions and voice of aU the wild animals that exist in their vicinity — and do so so perfectly that they will charm the most experienced practical observer — recog nise this distinction, namely, that there is a maneless lion, and that it is a distinct breed from the other species found in their land. Here, in the Great Thirst Land, in the Kalahari Desert, I believe that the lion attains greater magnitude, in fact, greater perfection than he does anywhere else in the world, except possibly in the Atlas range of mountains in North Africa. The reason of this is ohrious ; to support himself he must hunt, and with a due amount of exercise — just sufficient to keep his body in a proper state of health — he can obtain a sufficiency of animal food. The nature of the country makes this so, while the climate on these table-lands is not ener vating, but the reverse, making exercise desirable and pleasant. The temperature during the day may not unusually rise to 96°, but invariably at night, especially towards the morning, descends to 70° or thereabouts. Thus the lion does not lead a life of indolence here, necessity compelling him to seek his food, and not to lie in wait for it. On the Nile and other bottom lands, where the vegetation is extremely dense and game abundant, with cover in such luxuriance that places of ambush can everywhere be found, this animal suits himself to circumstances, procures his meal, and sleeps till he again feels the calls of hunger. Day after day is this repeated tiU it becomes the experience of a lifetime. But that is not the existence which develops muscle, or 410 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. produces activity, or engenders growth. No ; the lion of the Great Thirst Land is as much the king of lions as the lion is king of beasts. In the Atlas Mountains the black-maned hon is invariably found, on the Congo and Niger the yeUow- maned, and here both. This is not to be wondered at when we perceive that the country, although within the tropics, is possessed of a sub-tropical climate. The Southern Hemisphere is not like the Northern ; the immense fields of ice that gird it, Avith almost a total absence of land, cause the cold Arinds to penetrate a great many degrees farther to the equator than they would in the north. The mountains opposite Cape Town, not higher than the Grampian HUls in Scotland, and in about 34° S. latitude, I have seen covered with snow. Where in similar elevation and simUar latitude can you find the same thing north of the tropic of Cancer ? CHAPTEB XXXV. A THUNDERSTORM IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Ruby's first and only Disobedience — Having a Good Time — A Rare Chase — On the Road again — A Storm brewing — Lightning — A Halt — Is the Wagon safe ? — A Suggestion that clears the Wagon in the twinkling of an Eye — The Storm subsides — The Face of Nature next Morning — I ride on to Soshong — The SUver Tree — A Migration of Reptiles — Bonty overtakes me— Near Kama's Cattle-Kraals — Ugly Natives — Can't get Information as to my Way — Sus picious People — Must I sleep .out P — Mr. Mackenzie's " Herd." The first act of disobedience, in fact, the only one perpetrated by Buby, she was guUty of this afternoon, immediately before trecking. I think, under aU the circumstances, the reader vrill say it was pardonable when he hears what it actuaUy was. Since I became her owner, she had seen none of her own race, and doubtless possessing a love for society, when she was turned loose among the horses belonging to my acquaintances, she went in, in American parlance, for having a good time. All Sunday forenoon she scam pered about, taking the lead in all descriptions of mis chief, her example being closely foUowed by her confreres. However, we were obliged to keep several of the attendants on the watch around them, for fear any of the disturbers of the peace of last night might be lurking in the locality. Although the horses were thus surrounded by a cordon, the area of which could not exceed three or four acres, there was among them such racing and chasing as 412 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. had not been seen since the days of Cannoby Lea ; and when the hour for departure came, the happy creatures seemed very indisposed to give up their sport. How ever, one after another was secured, and ultimately aU but Buby, and catch her we could not, although a dozen persons were engaged in her pursuit ; yet she would not go alone a hundred yards from the wagons, but coursed round and round them, persistently refusing to be cornered or surrounded. For over half an hour she practised this game, and we almost despaired of success, when, doubt-- less thinking she had given enough trouble, and had a sufficient lease of liberty, she surrendered at discre tion. While we laughed at the fun, certainly the Bechuanas did not, for the thorns were abundant, and the afternoon fearfully hot ; in fact, such violent exercise under the circumstances was much to be deprecated, and their sour looks and angry expressions showed that they thought so. At length all the oxen were in the yoke ; each driver, whip in hand, stood waiting for his master's orders, while the foreloper, reim over his shoulder, after the manner of his craft, sat upon the ground, almost under the noses of the leading cattle. With a " God bless you!" a firm shake of the hand, and many ex pressions of regard, we three Britons parted in this distant and little-known part of the earth. ShaU we ever meet again? Possibly, but not probably; stiU, the secretary of the book of futurity may have made an entry in its pages that such is to be. The whip again cracks, the driver shouts " Treck ! " the treck-tow is made taut; then " Amaga!" is yelled, and the ships of the desert are moAnng off in their THUNDER, LIGHTNING, AND RAIN. 413 different directions. Before we had progressed a mile, I noticed very dark clouds rising in the south-west, and soon after became convinced that I heard distant thun der, the muttering of which was like the sound of wild waves washing a far-off strand. A flash of vivid lurid lightning, with forked, erratic course, now rushed down to the earth, and the distant hills of Bamanwatto, previously seen indistinctly in the distance, became obscured. I feared we were in for a storm, but did not wish to outspan alone where I was, so ordered the guide to hurry on the cattle, so as to be as far from the vley as possible before we should be forced to halt ; for your oxen must not treck in wet, else their shoulders wUl soon become gaUed. The buUocks had wonderfully freshened up with their rest and an abundant supply of water, so stepped out blithely. But that grand and awe-inspiring voice of nature became louder and louder, and the lightning blazed forth as if the heavens would split in twain, yet no rain had fallen upon us. An hour and a half thus passed, and the whole landscape commenced to darken, for the black, voluminous clouds almost kissed the earth, and shut out as effectuaUy as would a paU the faintest glimmer of light. At length there was a pause, and all nature seemed hushed in awe, fearing to breathe, lest the sound of respiration should hurry the end of the respite, when the electric fluid, with a brilliancy such as I never saw before, descended in a dozen forked lines into the neigh bouring velt ; and vrith it came the thunder, awful in its deep intonation, grand in its power, terrifying in its 414 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. majesty ; and with it rain — not as we know it, but as if the flood-gates of some great river had suddenly been removed. Of course, for the time being, further pro gress was impossible, so I ordered a halt, and the patient cattle stood still in their yokes, trembling with fear. The next flash and the thunder came simultaneously, and the oxen became so alarmed, and showed such evident intention of wheeling round and rushing off before the violent deluge, that in a moment I ran to the leaders' heads and made the treck-tow fast to a tree, then, hurrying back, put on the brake and drag. The wagon was safe noAV, at least from being overturned ; but was it safe from the possibility of other accidents ? I commenced to think it doubtful, for close by the light ning struck a large mimosa, and shivered it into frag ments. There was so much iron about the wagon, and the treck-tow was of the same material, that I could not help fearing for the results. Yet I dared not release the cattle, for the moment the strap was removed from their necks, I felt convinced they would rush away into the gloom, far beyond pursuit. As soon as the rain descended, my attendants had hurried under the wagon for shelter, so that all that required doing had to be done with my oavu hands ; even Umganey refused to obey the orders of his master — in fact, they almost appeared to be in a state of coma through fear. Drenched? of course I was drenched, and iU beside. Still, I had lots to do, and no one to do it ; so I had to suffer the pelting storm, which beat doAvn upon me vrith unrelenting fury. Again another blaze of lightning, and vrith it a dreadful crash of thunder, suggestive of many deep and serious things. At this moment the thought occurred AFTER THE STORM. 415 to me, that supposing the wagon was struck, what a tremendous explosion there would be if my store of gunpowder became ignited! Such a casualty happening, there could be no doubt that every human being, yes, and animal, near or at present taking shelter under it would be killed. My fears I communicated to Umganey ; to the others he said only three or four words, and in an instant; as if by magic, aU tumbled and scrambled out from under the wagon and rushed for shelter to the nearest tree. Taking vrith me the mare, I followed their example. For over an hour the storm appeared to stand stiU, in fact it looked as if for that space of time we formed its vortex. It was an awe-inspiring period — a period in which one feels that every breath may be his last, every moment his final one of life. But why fear death, particularly in such a form ? It is but the sensa tion of an instant, and we have but returned to the clay out of which we were moulded. It is not to die we dread, but it is to die unprepared, and how few can say they are ready to meet their God ! But the battle-field where waged the strife, where the hottest part of the action had so long lasted, began to sustain a lull, for the warring elements visibly com menced to move farther to the north. The rain by degrees became lighter and lighter, till it gradually ceased, and the face of the glorious sun was revealed in all his grandeur, rapidly hurrying to submerge himself behind the western horizon. How often, when alone in the Great Thirst Land, when I have felt sad and dull, when I have thought of one whom I loved, and who played me false, of one who held my destiny in her hands, and drove me to be a wanderer, how often have I 416 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. thought that I would like to follow the sun in his flight till I sank with him beneath the western wave ! As I wished to put as much space as possible between my cattle and the hons of Seruley Vley, we trecked on till dark, but the roads now were fearfully heavy, so we were compelled to outspan in an exceed ingly suspicious place, where trees were numerous and water plentiful, aU the requisites that attract the f elides. What between working hard myself and driving my servants to do likewise, I soon had fuel enough to keep three good fires going the entire night ; but several times that I came out of my wagon to ascertain whether they were being attended I found the fires almost out and the boys sound asleep. An utter disregard for any person's property but their own is, I fear, a charac teristic of the black population of South Africa. In the morning what a change had come over aU nature ! The thirsty velt looked green, the trees were resplendent in their verdant foliage, and animal life seemed to have sprung into existence in every direction. Golden and emerald- winged birds fluttered about, turtle doves cooed their notes of love from each tree, and the great Woodpecker, one of the most resplendent of Africa's birds, awoke the echoes with his industrious tap. Even the jackals seemed to Avhisk their tails with additional energy, and stein-buck and dlkers, in ecstacy of mirth, bounded through the surrounding brush. Here I had made up my mind to leave the wagon, and ride on to Soshong across the Bamanwatto Hills, but I did not communicate my intention to my people, as I wished to see them started and well under weigh before I left. The distance was great, I think over sixty miles, and I knew not the path ; but I had A MIGRATION OF REPTILES. 417 confidence in myself, and still more confidence in the endurance and will of my tried little mare. By this course I should save about forty miles, and reach Mr. Mackenzie's at least three days before the wagon. I made my preparations quietly, filled my bag with beltong and biscuit, my pocket with cartridges, and my holsters Avith tinder, tobacco, &c, for it was quite as probable as not that I should have to sleep out all night, so that when we had advanced about two miles I told Umganey that I was going, and that I held him answer able for everything until the wagon's arrival at Soshong for which they were to make easy trecks. Pleased he did not look, but he said nothing. So taking Buby in hand I allowed her to choose her own pace, and cantered on towards Bamanwatto, not drawing rein till eight or nine miles were accomplished. While alone I had ample time for thought. Months I had dwelt in this wondrous land, and the wonderful country I was leaving rose before me as it is, and as it will be, for to the end of time it can never be altered, unless by other than mortal agency, for man cannot make a home, cultivate, and progress without — what this land is almost destitute of — water. On the higher ridges I traverse the silver-tree (Leucodendron argenteum), famihar friend of Table Mountain, makes its appearance, a proof that I am getting either to higher altitudes or farther from the tro pics. A very curious sight caused me to halt for some minutes. It was no less than a migration of those extraordinary reptiles called by the French mille pieds. The rain had caused birds and beasts in the most miraculous manner to appear, and I suppose had a simUar effect on the reptUes. They were crossing the B B 418 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. road eight or ten deep ; the advance-guard of this regiment I could not see, and the rear-guard appeared equaUy distant. Many of them were nearly a foot long, and as thick as a child's wrist. Their skins I had constantly found on the velt previously, bleached as white as snow, and consequently looking at a distance more like a shin-bone of some large mammal than any thing else, yet never for a moment had I believed that they existed in such countless numbers. These are not to be confounded with centipedes, for between the two there is no resemblance, except that they both seem to have more legs than they know what to do Avith. But what is that patter, patter, coming rapidly over the firm sand behind me ? A glance back reveals an old familiar and dear face — it is Bonty, the only dog that has come scathless through the battle. Dear old fellow, he would not let me go alone ; possibly he thought he might yet be of assistance ; and, faithful to the last, had followed me up to give his aid, if called upon. Between Bonty and the mare existed great affection. When the latter has been feeding, probably half a mUe from the wagon, I have seen the former of his own accord go and visit her, remain long enough to say, " How do you do ? Feel all right to-day ? No suspicious characters about," and then return in the most matter-of-fact way. Bonty was not by any means a gushing dog; but what he said he really meant. Again Buby wants to be moving ; gaily and easily she covers the ground, so that at half-past eleven I am at the dry river-bed, close to Kama's cattle kraals. After some searching, I find a pool, the mare has a drink, a roll in the sand, and half-an-hour's leave to pick up some mouthfuls of grass. I had finished eating, when LOOKING FOR INFORMATION. 419 three of the very ugliest natives came and sat before me. They were Barotse, and hailed from beyond the Barotse, a tributary of the Zambesi. The Diamond-fields were their destination. When they return to their native vaUey, how many miles they avUI have walked, and what strange sights they wiU have to report to the primitive people of their distant home ! Just as I was thinking of saddling, some of the cattle-herds made their appearance. I had learnt that there was a path from here to Soshong, but did not know where to find it. Thus I tried to get the neces sary information from these people, but all was of no use. Money and tobacco I offered in vain, they would not teU me — no, not they ! So suspicious is the character of these people. However, I did not despair of finding it, so got in the saddle again, and steered a due west course, occa sionaUy making a little to the south. Path crossed path, and cattle-trail cattle-trail, but none seemed to lead in the direction I Avished. At length I got into a deserted yillage, surrounded by numerous kraals, but even from this there appeared to be no outlet. StiU, west Avas my direction, and I pursued it. No flocks, no " herds," not a human being had been seen since I left the cattle station. I was wondering over this total absence of population, when, as I topped a ridge, I came upon a number of women and girls, each carrying a load. As soon as they saw me, do-wn went their burdens, and off they scampered. No information to be got from them, that was certain. Another hour's riding brought me up under the shadow of the hills. I looked for a passage through them — first rode up one ravine, and then another, but found myself on each occasion in a cul-de-sac. BB 2 420 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Matters began to look serious, for it was getting late, so I took out my comforter — soother of every grief and best of counseUors — my pipe, and caUed it into confidence. The result was that I concluded that I was still too far to the north. So into the saddle once more. " Come, my little darling, and put your best foot forward," I said to Buby ; and as fresh and elastic in her gait as she had been in the morning, she struck into her long, easy canter, nor showed signs of pulhng up tiU several miles were traversed. Here the ground was exceedingly wild and rugged, with immense, coppies of broken rock rising from the hiU-sides ; but a fairer view soon opened on the sight — a large extended plain, and a Kaffir viUage in the distance. " Come on, httle one, another effort," and my enduring, plucky mare, game to the last, answered my caU, and soon took me up to the human habitations. I asked for " Soshong," I asked for " water," yet none of these people would answer. What could they fear ? — or was it only indifference to a white man's wants ? Disgusted, I turned my back on them, and rode slowly away. A good camping-place for the night it was now necessary to look for, and I was about deciding on the merits of one, when a " herd " made his appearance. He looked at me in amazement, and I stared at him, as I thought I had seen him before, and so I had — it was Mr. Mackenzie's man, the man who had taken care of my oxen. In half an hour more I was by the spring at the top of the kloof. There I and my beasts had a long and most refreshing drink. Thirst quenched, we push doAvn past the baboons' cave, and in a few minutes more the good, kind missionary has me by the hand. CHAPTEB XXXVI. I LEAVE SOSHONG AND KAMA. My Wagon reaches Soshong— The poor Oxen glad to see me — Religious Service at Mr. Mackenzie's — Thoughts suggested by it — The Pastor — The Wor shippers — My Team broken up and sold off — Among the Traders of Soshong — Geordie — An Elicit StUl — Consequence of trying to set up a sly Grog Shop — A great Authority in Literature and Science — King Kama bids me FareweU — A favourite Haunt of Lions — A mighty Hunter — Mr. Finnety — Some of his Exploits — Seven Lions slain in twenty-four Hours — Artfulness of Lions — Sense of SmeU versus Sense of Sight — How the Lions bag their Victims — Lion not to be feared by Day — Are they Dangerous ? — The Leopard's Charge. It was Saturday afternoon. I stood looking with aston ishment and wonder at the droves of cattle and gangs of people passing to and fro between Soshong and the well. Never before had I seen the traffic so great, or nad I looked upon it vrith deeper interest, for was it not civilisation again? Yes, it was so, compared at least Arith the scenes I had so lately left. But while in a brown study on the future of those who formed the dramatis persona of the scene, the sharp crack of a whip caught my ear. I had not the shghtest thought that it could be my wagon, for in the ordinary course of events they would not reach Soshong tiU next day, and I had left instructions that for the sake of the cattle they were not to hurry ; but as I gazed upon the coming cortege, the shattered cover to the wagon, the laths that supported it visible for their entire length, the strips of torn canvas flying like streamers in the wind, I knew it 422 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. could be no other person's property. I walked down towards the guide, who was acting as driver, and stood upon the roadway. When the cattle came abreast of me they halted, for I believe in me they recognised a kind master. Poor old Swartland looked into my face, Bluebert and Buffle did the same, and reckless, head strong Poonah gazed upon me more intreatingly than the others — for why, they knew me as their master and friend, and wished to exhibit how they had been over worked, and desired that they should have that sympathy which can and ought to exist between the brute creation and man. My poor oxen, they were truly in a sad state, their formerly glossy hides were dust-stained, their eyes lacked lustre, and every movement of their limbs appeared an exertion that they were unable to repeat. In my heart how I blamed these people ! I could have expressed my feelings in very strong language, but it would not have done, so I said nothing, but feU in with the truly mournful cavalcade, and marched up to Mr. Mackenzie's house. What pleasure it afforded me to release my poor toiling beasts was proved by my actively assisting in doing so. After I left my employes they had trecked night and day to reach as soon as possible the capital of Bamanwatto. Should I have left them ? is a question that may well be asked, but I was very far from weU, intermittently bleeding at the nose and with a feverish pulse, for the constant strain upon my mind, and my utter loneliness, had worn me out. It is Sunday, the hour about three p.m. I have been resting in a wagon of Mr. Mackenzie's, when I become conscious that it is time for me to turn out if I mean to DIVINE WORSHIP IN SOSHONG. 423 attend worship; and what gives such relief to the weary in heart, the worn-out in body, the depressed in spirits ? I leave the wagon, and in front of the house find four or five stalwart bronzed men assembled ; some are seated on the terrace, others lounge upon the steps that lead up to it. I join the group. Few words are spoken; possibly nothing more than a bluff salute. Soon after the worthy minister comes forth and summons us to worship. With heavy tread and serious thoughts we enter the room where it is intended we should listen to Divine truths. Close to the table on which is laid the Word of God sits Mrs. Mackenzie ; by her side are her children, bright, happy, and bonnie specimens of what we all were in the days of childhood. How much those innocents , do to recaU our purer and better days cannot be over estimated ! At length a psalm is sung, the gruff voice of the wanderer mingles with the gentler cadence of the bonnie bairns. The room receives the melody and hands it to the kloof, and the vrild inanimate rocks of Bechuana Land echo in chorus the song addressed to the Christians' God. Ay, far as we are from home, from the land -of our fathers, the country of our progenitors, still the religion they believed, they taught, they fought for, is echoing in a kloof in the South African desert. Our pastor rises ; no flowery language is in his mouth, but earnest truths that strike home to the heart, that destroy the thought of argument, for aU that hear believe that they are incontrovertible. Look, reader, into that little room, made neat and attractive by a lady's skill, and see the one broad- shouldered, stalwart adviser, his helpmate and pretty children, joined by several browned and bronzed mature 424 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. men, who fear not aught in earth, dread not the desert or its Avild beasts, fear not the Great Thirst Land or its hardships, all intently listening, all enjoying, aU feeding upon the precepts inculcated in the Holy Book. ' The service is over, every one directs his steps to the traders' quarters, but I venture to say that for the first two hundred yards not one speaks, for he has hstened to, and inwardly digested, the solemn words of love, kindness, and remembrance that have been expounded in the hearing of all. At many a sinner's parting scene I have been present, and have felt it so much that I almost wished I had been victim instead of spectator. StiU I never remember to have vritnessed anything so impressive, so remindful of the termination of our earthly career and of the Great Hereafter as those httle assembhes in Mr. Mackenzie's house. I have much to do, for here I must break up my accessories. Mr. Mackenzie takes back Buby at the price I paid for her ; two days after he was offered, I believe, double the sum by a trader. May she go into good and kind hands, is my earnest wish. If I could have retained her I would have done so, but such was impossible ; but Buby, darling, your memory is dear to me, and ever wiU be tUl the end of life. Bonty and poor broken-legged Bob were given to King Kama, PortobeUo, alias Porty, was returned to Mr. Mackenzie, who also purchased six of my bullocks. Thus disencumbered, I determined with almost empty wagon to cross that portion of the Kalahari that inter venes between Bamanwatto and Sechelle's. In conse quence I had my wagon taken down on the flat, where I was detained several days in trying to obtain a OH! GEORDIE BREWD A PECK 0' MAUT." 425 competent driver to guide me over this route, a distance I should think of over one hundred and twenty miles, every yard of which has loose sand inches over the felloes of the wheels, and at this season of the year probably only one drinking-place to be found over the whole course. WhUe halting here I was thrown a great deal among the traders, and whatever that class may be in other parts of Africa, I can say for one and all of them at Soshong that I considered they honoured me by their society. One story I heard in Soshong, at the time and even now I think so ludicrous, that I will relate it. Geordie — a well-known character in Soshong — a Highlander by birth, had a most unquestionable love for ardent spirits ; not that this is peculiar in itself, for I have known a few Scotchmen who loved whiskey, and when whiskey was not forthcoming, who condescended to drink brandy, even rum, and, at a pinch, would not hesitate to have a mutchkin of gin. Now Geordie had traveUed, and his ideas in consequence became enlarged; so that when gin could not be obtained — decent man ! — he made no complaint, but took to eau-de- cologne. But, as in Soshong the supply of this was not great, and he saw that his libations were limited in supply, he, like a wise man, and one gifted with forethought, began to consider how the want was to be supplied. Day after day he studied this, and at length he thought — happy thought! — " Make it myself." So he got a Kaffir pot, and built it in over an oven, had' a condenser made, and for a worm substituted an old gun-barrel. Kaffir corn was the grain he first employed his ingenuity upon. The quantity was small, and the results commensurate. 426 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Still, although it was only a taste, it was uncommonly good, bit like a mamba, and warmed up to a very pleasant degree the latent cockles of his heart. So delighted was he with his success, that he at once made a confidant of a leading trader, an intimate friend. The two together got a stock of Kaffir corn, fomented it, and intended going in for a regular whole sale business. The fire again was lighted : fuel was not scarce, and parsimony on such an occasion was deprecated. So both Geordie and his friend sat round the still, anxiously Avaiting for it to commence manufacturing spirits. The delay was considerable, more than was anticipated, and they began to feel anxious, when an explosion took place, and neither knew who punched him. In fact, the formation of our gallant little Celt's legs, which are certainly pecuhar, is attributed to this accident. They had quite forgotten that a safety-valve was necessary ! Another little anecdote. At Bamanwatto resided an American, who in his younger days had been a saUor. His birthplace was Salem, Mass., and he desired to be considered a proficient on all subjects connected with astronomy, navigation, &c. This great hght of the scientific world informed me one day that he had " shot the sun," a common expression among navigators, which means that they have taken an observation. I asked him, " How did you do it ? " "With a sextant, of course." " But don't you think a chronometer, under such circumstances, would be better ? " asked I. " Yes ; but what could we do ? We had none of the late inventions of science." FAREWELL TO SOSHONG. 427 Of course, this was a very hard case. " But why- did you not use your barometer?" " I thought of that, but feared the people would not understand it, so did not propose it." Mr. Clark, our Nantucket sailor,, thus figured as an authority on literature and science, and so I left him. At Soshong, I bade a fond farewell to traders, and particularly to my kind and dear friends, the mis sionaries, who had done more than I could ever have expected to make me happy and comfortable during my sojourn among them, and more than I shall ever be able to repay. It was a blistering hot day when I bade adieu to good King Kama's capital; and when I did so, the monarch himself presented me with a bunch of magni ficent blood ostrich-feathers ; and as I shook his soft, delicate hand, I could not help thinking what a perfect type of an aristocrat he was, even although he [was black. Mashue I reached in thirty-two hours. The road was fearfully heavy, up over the tires of the wheels at every yard, and my faithful, patient bullocks far from strong. Here, a year or two ago, an incident took place which is worth recording. This vley, Mashue, which never is vrithout water, is a favourite haunt of lions — in fact, I may say, never without a troop, or, more pro perly, a famUy, frequenting it. It is passed once in every two weeks by the Bechuanas that carry the mail between Sechelle's and Soshong, and occasionally a traveUer finds his way along it ; for it is the shortest route to the north-west corner of the Transvaal, but not 428 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. as a rule selected, owing to the depth of sand that has to be traversed, and the sparsity of water. It is a true type of the country that it margins, for it possesses vegetation, with little or no water. It is strange that evidences of numerous springs and vleys that existed in former days are constantly to be found ; and old Bechuanas have assured me that they can re member that they always contained water. But where is it now ? Drank up by the thirsty soil. Thus this route is seldom selected by the traveUer by wagon ; possibly more often by the equestrian. There is a famous hunter, whose exploits, if they were written, would rival those of Gordon Cumming. He fears not the lion by day, and it is said, not even by night. I have killed all sorts of game, and to the grizzly bear of North America I give the palm for destructive qualities and vitality, and not a few of them have fallen before my rifle ; but I must say, if men constituted as I am will follow them or lions into the bush, when darkness shrouds the landscape, they must be possessed of far more pluck, or much better powers of vision, than myself. To our story. The principal in it, Mr. Finnety, was coming from Sechelle's to Bamanwatto. After the manner of the country, he rode one horse and led the other. At this vley he watered his animals, and pursued his journey, doubtless hoping that night would see him at the end of it. He had not gone more than a mile beyond the water, when two lions sprang from the bush on either side of the road, each seizing a horse. The mount that he was on fell in a moment, and shot him over its head ; but the hunter was on his feet in a trivet. With the right barrel he killed the assaUant of MR. FINNETY, KILLER OF LIONS. 429 the horse he was riding, with the left the brute that attacked the led horse. So quick was the whole done, that neither of the nags was injured. The exploits of Mr. Finnety would require a chroni cler, but another of his performances was told me by Mr. Leask, of Klerksdorp, who was with him at the time, and should not be hid from the world. The night previous, just as it was getting dark, he shot a large white rhinoceros. As he believed his buUet had been weU placed, and that in consequence it was only a matter of time for the game to faU, he deferred follovring it till the morning. At break of day he started alone to find his quarry, and after going a mile or so found it dead, with three hons around it. Mr. Finnety stalked up within a short distance of them, and killed the trio, each requiring only a single bullet. • Soon afterwards, having discovered elephant spoor, he followed it up, and after noon overtook the herd, and bowled over a couple of tuskers. Betracing his steps to regain his wagon, he had to pass by the dead rhinoceros, and when doing so, found two more lions beside the carcase. These he also kiUed. In the morning, Mr. Finnety went out with his people to secure the ivory of the elephants slain the day before. On their route they passed a pool in a dry river-bed, and by it were two large lions. He left his people, and, unsupported, walked up to them and killed them right and left. Thus seven lions feU before his gun in little over twenty-four hours. I should like to know who can show such a bag ! Although I confidently believe that any man with ordinary courage may travel in Africa without the 430 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. slightest danger from lions, if he takes proper pre cautions, still, if you will shoot at them, and possibly in doing so, wound them, look out, for you have a devil incarnate to face, who will only be satisfied with your heart's blood ! The artfulness of lions in effecting the capture of their prey is very wonderful. The inferior races of animals we accredit with instinct, yet deny them reasoning powers. It requires a very acute dis crimination to tell where the one terminates and the other begins ; nor have I found any one who would instruct me on the subject. It is a well-known fact that the sense of smell pro duces more fear in the animal creation than that of sight. It may be accounted for in this Avay — -when they see a danger they can avoid it by the employment of such means as the Creator has given them ; but when they scent it, they cannot teU how close or far off it may be with any degree of certainty. However, this peculiarity the hon is well aware of, and thus utilises it. I haye said previously that these animals nearly always hunt in troops, or parties, of five, six, or seven. One of these is invariably a mature male — not unfrequently an old one. Night has set in, the weather is blustery, with possibly rain, and all is dark as ink. The happy famUy go forth. In their travels they discover a trader or Boer outspanned. The cattle are tied up short to their treck-tow, the end of which is made fast to a tree, and the brake is tightly fastened on the hind wheels. The marauders hold a consultation, and particularly note the wind. Their plan of action is then brought into play. The females and younger and more active males silently LIONS' STRATAGEM. 431 steal off, and secrete themselves down wind, possibly a hundred yards below the unsuspicious bullocks, who are probably all lying down chewing the cud, with their backs to the wind, and their keen eyes staring into the darkness to leeward. The reason of this is that they do not dread danger from behind, for their powers of scent and hearing will give them ample warning; while to their vision alone can they trust for safety from the attack of their stealthy foes in that direction. At length the party have got to their lurking-places. The old veteran goes to windward of the oxen, and approaches fearlessly towards them, shaking his mane out, that the breeze may carry as much as possible of his effluvia to the intended victims. When the first taint of this strikes their nostrils, every bullock springs to his feet and faces the danger. Closer and closer approaches the old lion, and the smell of him becomes stronger and stronger. The buUocks simultaneously make a rush; they are, howeArer, well secured, and none succeed in breaking loose. But the tavvny, blood-thirsty marauder has not yet played his trump-card. Up he approaches closer, again shakes his mane and roars. That is the climax. If your reims are not the best — and those made of buffalo hide are to be preferred — the violence with which the cattle wiU rush to avoid the threatening danger will enable them to break loose, when the whole team will tear off doAvn wind, running almost into the jaws of their foes. In such a stampede as this — in fact, nearly in all instances — it is the flank of the victim that is first seized, and several unite together to pull down the prey. The lion unwounded is not to be feared by day, unless when the sexes are together, or inadvertently you 432 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. should chance to come so close upon him when at rest, that he thinks that retreat is impossible, and therefore his only safety is in doing battle. The English sports man of average pluck need trouble his head therefore very little about them, or treat the probability of danger arising from them as extremely remote. They are, more over, a large object to aim at, and although doubtless possessed of great vitality, do not have it to the same extent as their beautifuUy-striped confreres of the East. Again, their activity is not equal to that of the tiger, or the grizzly bear of the Bocky Mountains. The charge par excellence of all the f elides is that of the leopard. Its velocity is amazing — beyond belief ; and while in the act does not present the easiest shot ; and its power to do injury, although comparatively a small animal, cannot be overrated. CHAPTEB XXXVII. A VISIT TO KING SECHELLE. A Wildebeest Hunt — Sultry Weather— My Spoorer — The Game in Sight— Blown — Bring down a. Cow — The Wounded Animal charges my Attendant — Assegaied — A Clean Miss — The WUdebeest gone for Good — Spoor of Giraffe and Quagga — " KUoe " and " Petsi " — A Shot at Zebra — Success — A Look at my Cattle — My new Ox jumped by a Leopard — Bolts with its AssaUant — I Pursue to no Purpose — Certain Fate of the Poor Brute — Lost — Spend the Night " out " — Light a Fire — Stung — Attacked by Red Ants — A Miser able Night — I Find my Wagon — Crowds of Partridges and Turtle-doves — Cruelty to Buffle — His Wretched End — The Lion-bird — Aw awe — King. SecheUe's Cattle— A Magnificent Roan — Mr. Williams, the Missionary — King SecheUe— His great Grief — Defeat of his Troops — His Queen — SecheUe's Town — An Hospitable EngUshman. Here at Mashue the bullock so lately purchased, and so badly treated by his companions, came to a most untimely and unexpected end. Wildebeest spoor was so fresh and abundant around us, that I resolved to take my rifle and go in pursuit of them. A bushman Avho lived in the neighbourhood was easily induced to accompany me as spoorer. Trees were small and far between, while the mapaney brush had given place to the ivory-needle thorn, causing the surface of the country, which was rolling, to be far from enlivening. The sun was unusually hot, the air was oppressive, and the distance seemed to quiver from the mirage effect of the atmosphere. Still, these disagreeables were in my favour as far as finding game was concerned, for the wild animals, quite as much as man, dislike traveUing long distances under such uncomfortable circumstances. c c 434 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. I found my attendant thoroughly conversant Arith his present employment, for he tracked with such rapidity and certainty that it was most difficult to keep up with him. However, like an old experienced greyhound, who refuses to pursue the tortuous winding of the hare, but runs cunning, so did I. But even with this artifice I could scarcely, keep the bushman in sight, and if a shot had presented itself, I was so much blown that I doubt very much if I could have held my barrel straight. At length, very much to my satisfaction, I saw the spoorer stop, look back, and wave his hand. Forward I pushed with increased rapidity, tiU I reached him, when, motioning me to stoop, he took me up the slope of a sand doon, over which, when I looked, I per ceived about thirty wildebeest feeding at a distance of about four hundred yards. Deeming this too long a shot to be certain of killing, I endeavoured by signs to make my gillie understand that I wished to get closer to the game. For some minutes my pantomimic actions were not understood, but at length his expression told me that I was comprehended, so we retraced our steps for a short distance, then went across wind for several hundred yards, and again approached the game, a smaU sand-hiU intervening between me and them, on reaching the summit of which I found myself within two hundred yards of several of the herd. I picked out a fat cow, and took sight, but my hand trembled so that I hesitated to fire. I removed the rifle from my shoulder, trusting that in a few seconds I should recover from my shaki- ness. After drawing a deep, full breath, I again took sight, and fired; the object of my aim dropped. Shoving a fresh cartridge into the breech of my rifle, the bushman and I ran down to despatch the victim. When within HUNTING MADE UNEASY. 435 ten yards of the game, it made a violent struggle, and regained its legs, and, certainly surprising me by the activity it displayed, charged straight at my sable attendant. With wonderful agility he skipped on one side, avoiding the onslaught, at the same moment bury ing his assegai deep in his assailant's flank. The wounded animal did not return to the attack, but at almost an incredible pace followed the route of its comrades. As ' it passed me, about twenty-five yards off, I fired at its flank, but I was so nervous, so excited, that I believe I made a clean miss. For more than an hour we spoored this animal, but the only reward granted us for our trouble was the recovery of the assegai, which, from the blood-marks on the blade, must have penetrated several inches. Giving up the pursuit of the wounded wildebeest as futile, we turned our steps to the south, and crossed about half a mile of country, where we came upon giraffe spoor. The trail, which was very stale, told that they were only three-quarter-grown animals. Travelling on farther to the south, we crossed where quagga had just been. The bushman at once took up this spoor, and went off at such a rate of speed that in ten minutes it was a clear case of bellows to mend with me. However, I struggled along through the heavy sand, although I was scarcely able to draw one leg after another, till, through my slow progression, I lost sight of my spoorer altogether. I was debating in my mind whether to go on or turn back, when the bushman returned and the following interesting conversation occurred between us. When he was close to me, I said, " Kiloe " (Bechuana for wagon), meaning I wished to go to it. c c 2 436 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. " Petsi," he answered, and pointed to the west, thus indicating that zebras were close at hand. Again I said " KUoe," and he answered " Petsi," and showed not the shghtest inclination to give way to me. KnoAving that these feUows consider an extra ten mUes nothing if there is a prospect of getting a good feed, I doubted much the propriety of foUowing him ; but when I commenced to look about, and became convinced that vrithout his aid I should never find my way home, I made a virtue of necessity, and foUowed him. How ever, I was agreeably surprised — in twenty minutes he brought me within shot of the game, and I bowled over a fine fat mare. Mv attendant at once set to work, and cut off the carcase as many of the choice morsels as he could carry; so with a load of quite one hundred and twenty pounds of reeking flesh on his back, we retraced our steps homewards. During our hunt we had at first travelled west, then east, so we had not such a distance to traverse as might have been imagined ; and my attendant went as direct for the wagon as a bird would fly to it. Thus about an hour before sunset we were in sight of my cattle. Signalling to the bushman to go home with the meat, I left him, and turned to the right, to have a look at them. As usual, the httle ox was almost a quarter of a mUe from the others. A " herd " might possibly have rectified this, but as there were no habitations near, and consequently no mealy fields, and the only water to be found for mUes was in the Aicinity, there was no fear of the oxen strajdng or doing mischief, so I had per mitted the foreloper to remain in camp. WeU, I had a look at and a talk with SAvartland, Ackerman, Buffle, and, in fact, with ah, when I turned my steps towards OX ATTACKED BY A LEOPARD. 437 the new purchase. I had decreased the distance be tween it and the other bullocks by one-half, when a leopard sprung out of the bush, and in a couple of bounds lit upon the poor creature's shoulders, seized it Arith its teeth just in front of the withers, while the claws of one fore-foot were deeply embedded in the neck, those of the other in the back. So sudden was the shock, that the ox fell upon his knees ; but in an instant after it had gathered itself together and started off over the velt at a pace that I had never seen bullock make before. Oh that I had Buby now vrith me ! — what would I not have given for her services at that moment ? for I little doubt that I should have been alongside the trea cherous, bloodthirsty assailant before it had been carried by its prey half a mile ; but it was useless to regret the want of help that it was impossible for me to obtain, so, tired and exhausted as I was, I dragged myself along after the fugitive. While the stricken beast fled, the leopard was still on its back, and no doubt was making such good use of its tusks as soon to cut into its victim's spine. It was the more provoking as the cat appeared anything but a large one — certainly it was not higher than an ordinary-sized water-spaniel, although of course much longer. WeU, I followed the spoor of the ox long after I lost sight of both, tiU I was reminded by darkness setting in that it was time for me to return. Dis appointed that I could not render aid to my poor beast, I retraced my steps. Night rapidly closed in the land scape, so I hurried on — as I supposed — in the direction of the wagon. However, there was no moon, so after quite a couple of hours' indefatigable tramping, I became convinced that I was wandering. Yet, in spite of this conviction, I believed confidently that I was near 438 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. home, so I ascended one sand-ridge and then another, in the expectation of seeing the illumination of the sky caused by the wagon-fires, but look in what direction I liked, such was not to be perceived. At length I gave the search up as a bad job, and sought for a dead or fallen mimosa. After about an hour's futile exertion, I discovered the latter, made a fire, and laid down with the hope of sleeping; but in this I was disappointed, for soon after trying to seek repose, I was stung by a scorpion on the ankle, which the flames had doubtlessly driven irate from its sanctuary in the fallen tree. This was bad enough, but here my torture did not end, for I was assailed by red ants in such numbers, that it was impossible longer to remain lying on the ground. In consequence I got up, piled more wood on the fire, and went so far as to consider myself the most unfortunate man on the face of the earth. However, no wild animals came near me. In the distance I heard several hyaenas wail, and numerous jackals laugh, but they were a long way off, possibly holding carnival over the body of my slaughtered ox. When day broke I picked myself up, and with anything hut feelings of regret left my uncomfortable bivouac. When the sun rose I walked towards it, and in a short time found my OAvn and the bushman's spoor of yesterday when in pursuit of the Avildebeest. Taking the back trail, soon after I observed a line of white smoke perpendicularly ascending to the clouds. As I was not aware that any of the natives resided near here, I concluded that it must be from the fires at my wagon. In this surmise I was correct, so reached my belongings by eight o'clock, when I found that Umganey and the driver had gone in pursuit of me. However, they returned about INHUMAN CRUELTY OF MY BOYS. 439 noon, having come across my spoor and tracked me home. I have never in my life seen such quantities of Namaqua partridges as frequent this vley — morning and evening they come and go in almost uninterrupted flocks of thousands; while turtle-doves in very nearly equal numbers are also visitors. With a shot-gun any person might have kiUed hundreds of these beautiful birds, for they were so tame that they would barely clear my head by more than a few feet, so anxious were they to satisfy their thirst. From here we made two trecks through a country more densely wooded than any I had lately passed. As it got dark, when still half a mile from water, one of my oxen, big Buffle, lay down, and would not rise. Be lieving that a short rest would again put him on his legs, I wrent forward to examine the trail. When I returned — possibly after an absence of half an hour— a queer smeU, as of burnt meat, pervaded the neighbour hood. This I discovered was caused by the cruel, un feeling boys having lit a fire under the poor ox to make him get up. Such torture was of no avail — the poor creature could not get up, and consequently had to submit to the inhuman derice of its persecutors. Thus it had to be left behind, with the hope that it might be able to be driven on in the morning. During the night the hyaenas and jackals made a great disturbance. As the quarter whence their voices came was that in which poor old Buffle' lay, I surmised, and truly, that I should never see him again alive. When I returned at sunrise to bring him up, alas ! nought remained but a very imperfect skeleton to point out where he had lain down. 440 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. The following evening, soon after sunset, a new moon was seen rising over the neighbouring hiUs. Its crescent was not larger than a thread, but that was quite sufficient to cause the boys to make a night of it, so they did not sleep, and kept me from doing so by their continued lullalooing and clapping of hands. Next day we trecked through very heavy sand, between two ranges of hills. The slopes were covered vrith trees, and the scenery pretty, but monotonous. At eleven a.m. we reached the vley, where we expected to find water, but it was dry. Nevertheless, we out- spanned and rested for three hours. WhUe eating breakfast one of the crested slate-coloured birds always associated by the natives with lions perched on a neighbouring tree, and incessantly kept uttering its discordant notes — aw awe. As I knew no lions were near, and that he was fibbing to try and frighten us, I took up my Martini-Henry and fired. The distance was too great to think I would hit the object of my aim, but the gun was true, and my sight more correct than anticipated, for the unfortunate fell to the ground, with its body shattered into pulp. Next morning about ten o'clock we reached a large Adey. All, or at least a large proportion of old King Sechelle's cattle were gathered here, for the Kaminyani had been successful in their war against him, and had even dared to change their tactics from those of defence to those of aggression. Here the herds were supposed to be safe, and a splendid troop they were, numbering I should suppose several thousand. While asleep under my wagon, a trader of the name of Solomon, accompanied by an after-rider, arrived. He was en route to Baman watto. The horse he rode was a magnificent roan — in KING SECHELLE. 441 fact, one of the best-looking nags I had seen in the country. The purchaser being very proud of it, and Avishing to show me its paces, attempted to put it through them, when it bucked him over its head. For tunately no injury was done to the rider. We trecked that afternoon and the next morning, when having arrived at the outskirts of the gardens that for mUes surround SecheUe's toAvn, I walked on, and arrived at Mr. Taylor's store in time to be invited to dine with him. He has lately married an English lady, whose sister resides with her. Their life must be truly duU and monotonous. Mr. WUliams, the missionary stationed here, showed me much kindness and attention. He had heard from Bamanwatto of my coming, and insisted on my making his house my home. What I say now for one, I say for aU, that a kinder, more hard-working, and self-denying people than the missionaries of the distant interior of South Africa I never became acquainted vrith. At Mr. Taylor's I slept, for I had met him first, and he had pressed upon me his hospitality, which I con tinued to enjoy during the remainder of my sojourn here. King SecheUe caUed upon me the day after my arrival. He is a remarkably handsome, stout man, about sixty-five years of age. But for his colour — a dark broAvn — he more resembles a good representative of the Anglo-Saxon than a Bechuana. He is at present in great grief, for his troops, led by his son, have been repulsed, and the successful enemy have made numerous incursions into his territories, where they have com mitted fearful barbarities. The last tidings of a defeat were brought him when holding counsel in his kotla. 442 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. As soon as he heard the unwelcome news, he is said to have thrown off his outer garments, and in the most violent language accused his people of haring become women, of haA'ing forgotten the deeds of their fathers, and of having descended to such a degree that only entitled them to be slaves. This peroration he con cluded by a regret that he was born so long ago, that he was now unable to take command of his troops in person. The day after SecheUe's visit I returned it, and was introduced to his queen. She is also exceedingly pleasing in appearance and manner, although quite as stout as her husband. Their residence is a large, weU- built cottage, with a wide verandah, surrounded by a compound of about an acre and a half. The interior of their dwelling was clean, but I could not say tidy, for there were musical boxes, books, telescopes, Avind instru ments, guns, swords, and articles of furniture and cloth ing huddled together in one indistinguishable mass. Before departing, the old king presented me with a beautiful caross, and other curiosities, and came down at the hour of my leaving, accompanied by hospitable and kind-hearted Mr. WUliams and Mr. Taylor, to see me start. The natural position of Sechelle's A'iUage would be very strong if it were not commanded by an t adjoining height, but in case of an attack it would doubtless be fortified. After a rest here of four days we started at three o'clock in the afternoon of the fifth, our numbers being further reduced by a man, an ox, and a dog. We trecked all night, and reached water at eight o'clock in the morning. The pasture around this halting-place was exceUent and abundant, so I did not inspan tiU late the next afternoon. Here I met A PRESENT OF VEGETABLES. 443 the Englishman who had treated me so hospitably at Lieufontein. His heart was as generous as ever, for he gave me an immense supply of vegetables, at the same time expressing numerous regrets that he was not journeying in the same direction as myself. When he started for Sechelle's, I trecked to the south. ShaU I ever meet this genial, kind soul again ? It is not impossible, but very improbable. Whether or not, I wish him happiness and prosperity. CHAPTEB XXXVIII. EXPERIENCES AT THE DIGGINGS. A Copper HUl — Refreshing Dip — Poetry not in my Line — Guinea Fowls innu merable — Shooting a Leopard — Applauded by Monkeys — Ruined Huts — Gifts that didn't Pay — At Moiloes again — Clear of the Great Thirst Land — At Zeerust again — Mr. Wisbeach's Kindness — At Klerksdorp again — Parting with Umganey — Faithful to the End — Attacked by a Deserter — Arrival at Kimberly — Jarvey No. 1 won't take his Fare — Jarvey No. 2 does — The Cabman an old Friend — High-class of Emigrants — Splendid Material for a Cavalry Regiment; — Mr. Balfour — Curious Coincidence — Mr. Balfour's Letter — Documentary Evidence touching the Death of the Basuto Pony and an Ox. Next day we failed to find water where water was expected, so we made but a short halt. Towards sun set we trecked down the side of a hill. This incline was a mass of pure copper. Even the loose rubble that lay upon it was the same ; and when the wheels grazed it, so soft was the metal that they sliced off pieces an inch or more in length, and quite a quarter of an inch thick. About ten in the afternoon on the second day we reached Aspho (vulture) fontein; here we found an abundant supply of beautiful clear water, and I enjoyed the luxury of a bath — not one of your cat's-wash kind of affairs that for so long I have had to put up with, but a regular SAvim in eight or nine feet of water. This stream passes through a deeply-wooded kloof. The scene recalled a poem written before I found out that APPLAUDED BY BABOONS. 445 versification was not my forte ; still, here it is — at least, a line or two : — " Where the bare slopes of rocks converging fell On either hand into a craggy cleft, And the free, fervid sun flowed down the dell," and so on. Well, I had scarcely got dressed when Umganey came to inform me that plenty guinea-fowls were to be had, so I went and sought them. In aU my previous experience I never found these birds so abundant — they were not in miUions, as an American friend said the hornets were that sallied out upon him, but Avithout exaggeration they were in thousands. Having only a rifle, and still being very shaky, I fired at least thirty shots for the five or six I killed ; and every time the report echoed up the kloof, a troop of baboons chattered, as if in applause at the row I was so unsatisfactorily making. Among some rocks I sat doAvn to have a look at my claqueurs. As people go they were not a bad specimen of their race. But what on earth is the matter ? there they are scampering up the deU to the most inaccess ible crags. I have not alarmed them — I doubt if I could ; but something has — what is it ? Looking behind a point of rock I see a creature taking stock of me — a pair of hazel eyes and two prick ears. They are real bonnie to look at, while the expression of face is so earnest. I raise my Martini-Henry, and take a steady shot. I have not much to fire at — less than the size of my hand, stiU the missile speeds straight, and the winsome beast, with all his wondrous .spots and markings, is a corpse. And would you believe it? — of course you do not — the baboons chat- 446 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. tered applause, for they knew just as weU as I did that their enemy had been slain. From here we trecked through the ruins of several deserted vUlages, but war had driven away the inhabi tants, and time had destroyed their dweUings. What once were their fields are now desolate wastes ; what once were their houses are a home for the hyaena, the bat, or, worse still, the hideous, bloated reptUe. After a long day's treck we arrived at night beside a large pond, formed by banking up the course of a rivulet. Several of the inhabitants came out to welcome me ; to my surprise many spoke Enghsh. Shortly after dark I was sent a present of meat and vegetables, but, incredible as it may appear, so many came to see me eat and assist me in the performance of so necessary and not uncommon a duty, that I discovered that these presents were far from a paying game. Next morning at break of day I got the cattle in, and when I took them out of the yoke I was in front of the blue gum-trees before Mr. Jansen's house at MoUoes. Thus ends my wandering in the Kalahari desert, for here I leave it and enter the Transvaal. The agony that my poor cattle, my boys, and I had endured in the Great Thirst Land was noAV practically at an end. Our sufferings had been intense, but we had come, thank God, safely — or at any rate tolerably so — through it all. Truly may that region be caUed the Thirst, nay the Great Thirst, Land, for there, more than in any other countiy I have ever visited or travelled in, are unfortunate animals and miserable natives subjected to periodical visits of excruciating scourges ; and the tremendous hardship is that no amount of experience can possibly avail to prevent the recurrence of the FRIENDS LN NEED ARE FRIENDS INDEED. 447 unmitigated evUs of hunger and thirst — which are, of aU the pangs to man, and chUd, and beast, the worst. The good missionary, who distinctly told me that he never expected to see me return, was the essence of hospitality ; but I was anxious to get to Zeerust, for there I knew were letters awaiting me, so I trecked with the wagon tiU about half the distance was traversed, when to my disgust I discovered that the tire of one of my bind wheels was all but off. Thus I had again to turn wagon-Avright, remove the wheel and have it there and then pegged, which operation is accomplished by driving wedges of wood between the tire and feUoe. When again ready for the road I risited an adjoining farm-house, hired a horse, and gaUoped into Zeerust, very much to the surprise of the inhabitants, who were under the impression that I had died some time back, a report to that effect having been spread through the community about two months before. Again , I visited the little church, again I dined Arith Mr. Beed, and as I trecked south I stopped at Jacobsdal. Here that dear, kind-hearted gentleman, Mr. George Wisbeach, met me. He had left Baman watto the day after I did ; but although he had the longer route to traverse — that, namely, by CrocodUe river — he had beaten me in the treck by two days. Well, it is no harm teUing it, but I was very hard up, and could not get money tiU I got to Klerksdorp. Accordingly I had been prevented from laying in a stock of beef for myself and boys. Wisbeach somehow or other found this out, so he took me on the velt where his oxen pastured, and shot the fattest for my use. Nearly the whole world knows me now; and 448 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. although I have met with great kindness wherever I have travelled, I cannot recall one instance of dis interested generosity that I felt more keenly than that of George Wisbeach. Three days took me to Leichtberg. There I took the post-cart to Klerksdorp, leaving the wagon to follow, for my new driver was a careful, steady man. About two o'clock of a bitterly cold morning I took my seat beside the driver, and as we rattled over the velt I heard for the last time the mournful notes of the hyaena, sounds that had for long been familiar to me as the merry laugh of children within the pale of civUisation. At three in the afternoon we halted at Hartebeestfon tein. Mr. Doherty, the proprietor of one of the stores, insisted on my dining with him, and a grand dinner he gave out of courtesy to me and aU my feUow-pas- sengers. At sunset I was again in the cart, and at half -past nine was once more the guest of Mr. Leask. Never appeared people more astonished than they seemed when I walked in among them, for they, as well as the people in Marico, believed that I had been killed. Even in this uninhabited land, how rapidly does Dame Bumour flit about ! Klerksdorp is situated on a river more Scottish than African in appearance ; while behind the village rises a rugged stretch of hills, very irregular in outline, and reaching to an elevation of about 1,000 feet. After traversing this ridge, the open velt lies before the traveller, but a totally different velt from that which he finds about Marico, for here aU is grass, not a stick or shrub being found on the surface of the plain — in fact, so destitute is it of larger vegetation, that, as in the big plains between the Drackenberg and Vaal river, PARTING FROM UMGANEY. 449 no other fuel can be found than the dried droppings of cattle. It is fortunate that lions do not abound where the means of firing is so scarce. If they did, they would certainly have it nearly all their own way. Bidding my kind friends at Klerksdorp adieu, in thirty-six hours I reached Bloomhoff, for I had sold my wagon and cattle to Mr. Leask. But before I jump over that distance, let me say a word about my parting with Umganey. When I paid him, Mr. Leask ex plained to him that I was going back to my own home, and offered him employment, at four pounds a month, to take charge of his cattle, and what do you think the fellow said ? " I have never had but one bass, and while I live I vrill serve no other." For the day or two before I started he hovered round me — even when in my bedroom he would steal in and fill my pipes, or curl himself up in one of the carosses, and although apparently asleep, I could note the big black eyes watching me. At length the hour for getting in the post-cart came. My baggage I had seen safely stowed away, and in another moment I would have taken my seat, when the poor fellow threw himself on the ground and placed my foot on his head, then rising, rushed off up the hill-side. Dear faithful Umganey, that was the last I saw of him.' One darling idea he seemed to entertain was that I would go back with him to the Umphelosi, and live among his people. He promised me if I did so, that I should be a great chief. How could the poor half-starved wanderer whom I had picked up at Umganey promise so much ? Yet Kama told me that he was a chief's son. Whether so or not, he had as noble a heart as ever beat in human breast. The second day from Klerksdorp we reached Bloom- D D 450 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. hoff, a miserable village of a dozen houses. Here I was attacked by a fellow who was a deserter from the 36th Eegiment. He was assisted by three or four other scoundrels. Well, they between them pommelled me into a cocked-hat (any decent boy at home could have done so then), drove the post-cart off without me, and stole my watch, chain, and money, thus leaving me 150 miles to trudge on foot, without food, and aU the surrounding coppies covered with snow; but I did it. Exhausted, footsore, and dirty, I entered Kimberly just as people were leaving afternoon service on Sunday. AU stared at me and looked surprised. At this I could not be astonished, for when had such a tatterdemalion been seen before ? However, a cab passed : I'haUed it. Jarvey asked me politely to show him the colour of my money. As I was unable to do this, he looked for another fare. A second cab I caUed. " You bees a rummy look ing cove to ride in a conve'ance," said he ; and I agreed with him there and then. " Take me to the ' Car narvon,' at Dutoitspan." A quarter of an hour landed me at that establishment, but, would you believe it, they would not admit me tiU I gave my name ! As soon as their request was complied with, clothes, food, wine, tobacco were all forthcoming. The cabby looked at me now with even more surprise. He had a glass of champagne at my expense, then got into- his seat, meditatively pulled on his gloves, slowly took the reins in his hand, and said sotto voce, " Who would have thought it!" That cabman was in the habit of coming to see me daily after this httle episode, and more than that, he blacked my boots unbidden, and brushed my clothes. GENTLEMEN DIGGERS. 451 He had once been a private in the 11th Hussars, and few better or kinder hearts ever beat under a shell- jacket or wore a sabre. But in alluding to soldiers, I would say a word or two about them. I believe there is no place in the world where such splendid specimens of the Briton are to be found as at the Diamond Fields. The majority are not only the sons of gentlemen, but gentlemen by education. The reason that such a high type of emigrant should be found there doubtlessly is, that it is a very expensive journey from England. If I had to raise a couple of cavalry regiments, there I would certainly go for recruits. Look across the way towards the Post Office and note that group, aU young, all good- looking ; and you can safely feel assured that the grass country of the Midland Counties knows them well, that its hedges, woods, and copses have echoed with their stirring, soul-inspiring " TaUy-ho ! " That broad- shouldered man with the heavy moustache and good- natured expression of countenance, what a splendid heavy dragoon he would make ! The other conversing so animatedly Arith him, light enough stiU to ride under eleven stone, would he not make the most perfect of Hussars or Lancers ? There is the material such as no other land can produce, there is the quality, yet we do not know how to make use of it. Although many of these splendid specimens of the genus homo have now to work hard, to toil Avith hands that never previously were acquainted with anything harder than a kid glove, stiU they look in no way dispirited, but laugh at the last bon mot, or narrate their latest escapade with as much gusto as a year or two before they may probably have done on the porch of their club in PaU MaU, or dd 2 452 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. stroUing up the gentle incline of St. James's Street. "But wiU they a' come back again?" and, doubtless, may be added, " And mithers grat as they marched awa . I met many friends and received the offer of much hospitality when at the Fields, but from the state of my health I was compeUed to consider myself an invalid. In consequence of the rumour of my iUness, an Episco palian clergyman called upon me. He was a most charming person, very young, very earnest, and a de lightful conversationalist. During' my intercourse with him quite a little episode took place — so improbable that I would fail to teU it if I could not present the testimony of the following letter. It occurred in this way. Mr. Balfour (for I do not hesitate to give his name, when what I narrate only proves how earnest, sincere, and self-denying he is in his labours) casuaUy inquired of me if, in all my trials and struggles, escapes from death, where life was all but sacrificed, I ever felt serious ? " Yes," I replied ; " I do sometimes." "When, and where ?" were his further queries. "I will tell you — I don't mind doing so to you, but it is a subject I usually taboo. In one of the Midland Counties of England there is a little church, in my opinion the most perfect place of worship I ever entered. Of a calm summer evening, when all nature lies in repose, when the husbandman plods home wards from his toil, and the happy-hearted children, released from school, laugh and sing, and scamper about in excess of enjoyment, I used to mount my horse (for it was some miles off) and ride to this holy place, and there seek and receive comfort for my past MR. BALFOUR'S LETTER. 453 offences. I never spoke to its pastor in my life, still knew him well by appearance, but it was the place and its surroundings that ever invited me to remember that there was a Hereafter to follow the present life." The day for my departure arrived. I was about to take my seat on the box of Messrs. Cobb and Co.'s coach, when Mr. Balfour came up to bid me good-bye, at the same time handing me a letter, which I was not to read tiU some miles of my journey had been accomplished. This I faithfully promised and strictly adhered to. The letter ran thus : — " DlJTOITSPAN, " Gkiqualand West, "June 21st, 1876. " Dear Capt. Gillmore. — I did not wish to disturb people last night, so came away without bidding you good-bye. I hope you will have a prosperous journey and find your belongings well at home. Mind you go to that little church again. I am very fond of the place, and it was Mr. Skinner who prepared me for Confirmation and for Holy Communion. When I was reading the 104th Psalm last night it made me think of you, and the lions, and the birds, &,c. Dwelling on the beauties of the natural »world seems to raise one's thoughts to Him who made these things. Surely it is worth while giving one's heart to Him, fighting against our evil passions and wicked thoughts with the strength we may get from Him; when we see how great and beautiful He is, and think what He may have in store for us. Forgive me for writing in this strain. I do long that " men would praise the Lord for His goodness " and serve Him faithfully. If we are truly sorry for our sins He will forgive us ; if we give ourselves up to His holy teachings He can make our characters more beautiful than the plumage of those lovely birds, for He knows where we have gone wrong, and being our Maker, can put us right, only we must work with Him and bravely put away all that displeases Him. If you are not angry with me by this time write 454 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. me a line from the Cape or Grahamstown. If you are, I am sorry, and ask you to forgive my rashness as a stranger writing to you on these matters. Good-bye. "Yours faithfully, " Francis Balfour. " Many thanks for your winnings ! " The birds alluded to were eight new species of bee- eater and honey-birds collected by myself, and none of which had ever been classified by any naturalist. The last passage, " Many thanks for your winnings," referred to my giving to the local charity some pounds I won at whist. For although an inveterate bad gamester, and without the slightest love for gambling, I almost invariably win when induced to become a member of a card-party. Two other documents I wiU also append. They give the reader, and more especiaUy the future traveller, some idea of the kind of certificate he 'must be armed Arith to recover the price of an ox or horse guaranteed by the vendor against lung or horse sickness. " Bamangwato, "8th May, 1876. " This is to certify that a bay horse, with black points, died on Crocodile River, on the 5th March, of horse-sickness, Spencer Drake and Fred. Drake having been present at the time. Said horse the property of Captain Gillmore. " (Signed) Geo. Gordon." " Bamangwato, "8th May, 1876. " This is to certify that a dark brown ox died of lung-sickness, on the 7th March, at Crocodile River. Said ox the property of Captain Gillmore, and purchased in Zeerust of Oswald Bagger. " (Signed) Geo. Gordon." DOCUMENTARY EVIDENCE. 455 The first-mentioned was my faithful Basuto pony, that had carried me so weU from Natal ; the latter one of the oxen purchased from the " Count," alias "Uncle," the signer being the good, kind-hearted little Scot who got blown up, or down, if you like it, when trying to distU whiskey. CHAPTEE XXXIX. THE DIAMOND-FIELDS HOMEWARD BOUND. A fierce Sun — The Diggers — Their Homes — The Pans — The Machinery — The Labourers — How they will work for the Musket, Great-Coat, and Blanket — Distance from their Home — Effects of the Diamond-Fields — Kimberly — The Buying and Selling of Diamonds — I leave Dutoitspan — The Coach — Drivers — German and English Jews — Their Resolution touching Liquor — How they keep it — Other Passengers — Unamiable Englishman — Affable Wife — One-legged Boer — Blessed Baby — Hints to Travellers about Babies — Handsomest Girl in the District — Orange River — In Old Colony again — Boers and Kaffirs — Splendid Qualities of the Latter — On board Ship — Holly again — The last of " the Red, White and Blue " — The Ship's Company — The Honourable Member for Matabele — Finis. Before leaving the Fields, a short description of the two celebrated diamond-diggings of Dutoitspan and Kim berly may be interesting to the reader. Imagine an im mense undulating sandy plain, very sparsely covered with grass, with the horizon here and there interrupted with sterile hills, while nearer at hand occasional coppies are to be found. A quivering glow makes distant objects appear to tremble, and exaggerates them to many times their proper size ; while the sun from a cloudless sky pours down its powerful rays upon the landscape, for not a tree to afford shelter is to be found. By Jove, and what a sun it is ! so cruel, so uncompromising, so powerful in its strength ! such a sun as the mariner in tropical seas would dread to encounter even more than death, if adrift in an open boat or upon a raft. No language can describe the luminary as seen here, no LIFE AT THE DIAMOND-FIELDS. 457 imagination can grasp the picture. And it is here that men come, men of education, men of good family, to sweat and toil, hour after hour, and day after day, fear and hope racking their bosoms in pieces, to gain suffi cient of the world's wealth, that when they turn their steps homewards, and reach the thrice blessed land of their birth, they may be able to support an aged mother, devoted sister, or possibly one dearer than even the closest of relatives. The population live in tents, or huts of wood or corrugated iron. Not unfrequently the same dwelling may be seen composed of both materials. Ingenuity and management have made some of these primitive dweUings not uncomfortable. This is more particularly to be noted when a wife is at the head of the establish ment, for ladies have found their way out here as weU as to less inaccessible parts of the earth. The want of water prevents almost any attempt at gardening, and how much would a few flowers do to relieve the eye- exhausting monotony ! But I learnt on my visit that, for ten months, not a shower had faUen upon this sun baked land, so that water had risen to the enormous price of three shillings a bucket. The pans pr diggings from which the diamonds are procured are nothing more or less than enormous holes. Kimberly mine, the larger of the two, I should imagine between three or four hundred feet deep, the sides being at about an angle of forty-five degrees, whUe the dis tance across the top cannot be less than three hundred yards. Along the outer edge are innumerable wind lasses, some worked by hand, some by horse-power, and others by steam, from each of which descend wire ropes to the respective claims. On these ropes the 458 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. buckets that bring to the surface the debris in which the gems are found, ascend, making the sides and top of the pit look like a deserted rabbit or badger earth, over the entrance to which an industrious spider has made a web. Nearly aU the labourers are black, a large portion coming from the tributaries of the Zambesi, or the adjoining countries beyond, supervised by a white or Hottentot overseer, whose duty it is to see that none of the stones are purloined. No easy task, you may be sure, among such a heterogeneous assembly. Side by side may be seen labouring Matabele, Macalaca, Mashoona, Barotse, and Bechuana, for aU tribal quar rels, feuds, and family discords are thrown aside here, that each workman may the sooner obtain the coveted musket, great-coat, and blanket, and thus be able to return at an early date to his native land. To accom plish this a thousand, possibly more, miles have to be traversed. StUl undaunted, they wiU persistently walk day after day, from night tUl morning, endure heat, thirst, and hunger, liable to be attacked by savage men and more savage beasts, and consider they have been amply rewarded if they succeed in taking their valuables home with them. The Diamond-Fields have done much to civilise South Africa, and day by day are doing more. But for them the heathen in their benighted regions would be as ignorant of civilisation and our race as they were in the days of David Livingstone. What is to be the ultimate result it is not easy to prophesy, yet it can scarcely fail to be otherwise than beneficial. The principal thoroughfares in Kimberly, where the shops, stores, banks, taverns, and hotels are situated, COBB & CO.'S COACH. 459 are well worthy of a visit, for there are few more crowded haunts of trade anywhere to be found. AU is bustle and excitement; while the roads are fairly blocked with wagons and carts of every shape and size, for supplies have to be brought from a distance, and there are nearly fifty thousand souls that have to be fed. No person is aUowed to buy or seU diamonds with out a Government permit. A breach of this law is punishable by imprisonment, fine, or even by flogging. It is absolutely necessary in such a community to have severe laws enacted, and power to enforce punishment in case of an infringement of them ; but the population have heretofore proved themselves law-abiding, loyal citizens, so no collisions have occurred between the authorities and the people. Another reason, and one I have mentioned before, is that no place was ever pre viously settled by so respectable a class of emigrants or colonists. The morning was bright and clear when I took my seat between the two drivers on the box of Cobb and Co.'s coach at Dutoitspan. For this part of the world not one Jehu is wanted, but a pah-, the one on the nigh side handling the ribbons, the other on the off wielding the great cumbersome whip.. The conveyance is an immense thing, seating nine inside and five passengers outside. In appearance it much resembles one of those swinging, jolting Noah's-ark affairs that in Boston and New York transfer passengers from the steamboats and trains to the hotels. However, they are as strong as wood and iron can be put together, and if not crowded are very comfortable. Messrs. Cobb and Co. wiU be re membered by many AustraUan friends as the enterprising 460 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. firm who first established a respectable line of con veyances between Melbourne and Ballarat. Here they have accomplished the same purpose, and in reward carry the mails and treasure. Six good horses are in front of us. With Mr. Balfour and numerous other friends I shake hands for the last time, and precisely at nine the horn sounds, the Kaffirs let go the heads of the steeds, and the giant whip delivers one of its musket-like reports, and we are off, more than five hundred miles lying between us and the diamond-crested blue waves of the Indian Ocean. Our drivers were both queer-looking feUows. The senior looked like a Macao (near Canton) Portuguese, the junior like a good specimen of the Kaffir. Both spoke Enghsh, had many amusing anecdotes to narrate, were very accommodating, and remarkably civil, to which eulogium I may further add that they were most skilful in all matters connected with their profession. But behind me are seated four characters, two are German Jews, and two English Jews. They have all made money, and are returning to their respective native lands, brimful of good spirits, and, I fear, bad whiskey. They sung well, and the repertoire of one or two was extensive, but after the most pathetic song, the choicest morceaux of aU the latest operas, especially if we were rushing up to one of the taverns where horses were changed, with one accord all would break out in deep bass voice with a chorus about never getting drunk any more. The air to which it was chanted being that of the march in Faust on Valentine's return, it wiU easily be understood that the emphasis and " go " of the Bacchanalian ditty were considerable. So sincere were they in this intention that as soon MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 461 as the horses were pulled up, each, without a moment's delay, ordered a glass of three-star French, a toss-off of Geneva, or a soupje of Old Colony rum, otherwise " Cape smoke." At the commencement of a stage they were in variably in low spirits, towards its termination, however silent they had been for an hour or two, music would recommence, finishing as the horses were pulled up with the chorus already alluded to. Another of our passengers was a short, stout young Englishman, with a cron't-tread-on-my-corns air, a great stickler for his rights, and a disliker of the fine arts in general, and music in particular. A day or two before leaving the Diamond-Fields he had committed matri mony. His wife, a fair Africander girl, was a perfect contrast to the husband, good-tempered, affable, with an extraordinary facility of looking at the bright side of everything, and treating the numerous inconveniences and mishaps as a very good joke. Then there was in side a very fat Boer with only one leg, which the rest of the inmates were always begging him to take a little paternal care of, as it invariably was getting in some body's Avay. Another, who would have egg beat up in sherry whenever we halted, scarcely calls for notice ; but I can't forget a blessed baby, whose lungs were so powerful, although its body was small, that its voice overtopped conversation — even singing — when it chose to pipe up, and that was at least twenty-three out of the twenty-four hours. I have heard it said that troublesome babies invariably turn out great men, this one, doubtless, has a brilliant future in store for it, and when it achieves greatness, or has greatness thrust upon it, I trust it will remember that I travelled with it on 462 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. this occasion, and never hinted even in the most remote manner that it was a nuisance. When you travel never abuse the babies, it is a mistake ; but when they get a most violent attack of tantrums on, mildly suggest that they probably have a stomach-ache, or a pin sticking in them. You wiU at once be put down as a person of feeling, and possessed of an unusual amount of common sense. In fact, you might not be surprised to hear it said sotto voce, " What an exceUent husband that young man would make ! " As we approached a halting-place one of the drivers informed me that the handsomest girl in that part of Africa resided there, that she was daughter of the proprietor of the tavern where we should stop, and that I was certain to see her, as she invariably came out to the coach for orders from the passengers. The young lady in question was very lovely ; to Andalusia admirers would imagine she owed her birth, but in this they would be mistaken, for she was an Africander of Irish parentage. The horses are at length in, and away we fly south over the velt, with six as wild unbroken steeds before us as ever carried harness. For four or five miles they never slacked their pace, but finally the heavy sand and heavier coach commenced to teU, and the beauties sobered down to a steadier pace. We have almost crossed the great Karoo Desert, high mountains bound the southern horizon, but before reaching them, when we shall be in the Old Colony, the great Orange Biver or Grand Gariep has to be crossed. This we did about nine in the morning, after enjoying an excellent breakfast at the hotel on its northern shore. ORANGE RIVER. 463 This magnificent river is worthy of a description, let me endeavour, therefore, to picture it. Its banks are remarkably steep, in many places precipitous, and covered with dwarf trees and brush as brilliant in their foliage at this season of the year as an American forest after the first autumnal frost. As far as I could see to the east or west high mountains marked its course, many of them having a mile or two of plain between their slopes and the water, whUe others, less considerate, pro jected into the river vrith dark frowning headland or rocky precipice. The Orange Biver, at the ferry, must be a quarter of a mile broad, while just above is a noble pool double that vridth, with some remarkably picturesque rocks at its entrance. The water is a brilhant cobalt blue, thus giving it an unnatural look in the eyes of Europeans. At this portion it assuredly is navigable for vessels of deep draft ; what distance it continues so I cannot say, but where it debouches into the sea the channels are so shallow that it is currently believed that the greater part of its water passes into the ocean under the sand. If it were not for this what a grand thoroughfare it would have been for transporting to market the immense quantities of produce that could be raised on the almost unlimited plains that margin its upper sources ! The incline from, the ferry tiU level country is reached is both long and steep, so the passengers, vrith the exception of the Boer with the unruly leg, walked to its summit. Hurrah, for the Old Colony ! for we are in it now, and the horses hear the shout and tear along at racing pace. One town after another is passed, all pretty, but Cradock most so. After this a long stretch of velt is crossed, when we commence to enter wood-clad 464 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. hiUs, the steep and rugged road often scarped out of their sides. Here many of the hardest battles were fought between our troops and the natives, and in many of the actions we had not much to boast of, yet the Kaffirs in those days were only armed with assegais, while our infantry soldiers had muskets, and in the majority of instances were supported by cavalry and artillery. Now that the natives are weU armed how would the battle go ? Very doubtful indeed I should think the issue of the struggle, if fought in bush or rocky ground. I told several leading politicians and gentlemen, when the late war between the Boers and Kaffirs took place, that the former would inevitably be beaten. Not one believed me, their answer invariably was, "The Boers have always thrashed them, and vriU assuredly do so again." "Yes, when the native had but an assegai ; but now he has a rifle or musket, and knows how to use it. Mark my words, the Boer wiU be worsted in the coming fight." Who was right and who was wrong is now a matter of history. I hope I shall never see English soldiers engaged with such an enemy, for the natives with their present arms are as fine light infantry as can be found — courageous, active, and enduring, and, better than all, requiring little or no commissariat. Can it be otherwise with men who follow the chase from childhood upwards, with courage enough to attack the most dangerous animal, and stealth sufficient to approach the most wary? Africanders would be better than Englishmen in such a war, but native troops led by Africander officers would be better still. It is useless to say more on this subject — a subject we will find a serious one at no distant day — for to give the offer of a word of advice to one of our POOR OLD HOLLY ALWAYS JOLLY. 465 home officials in office is but to lay yourself open to incivUity. Grahamstown, a charming place of residence, beautifuUy situated, was reached the evening of the sixth day. All of us were exhausted and in want of a " wash-up " and a rest, so a quiet room and comfort able bed were the luxuries most required, and I had the fortune to secure both. After two days' rest, a journey half by road, half by raU, took me to the Bay (Bort Elizabeth), where, thoroughly broken down and worn out, I obtained ac commodation at the Bhcenix Hotel, tiU Messrs. Donald Currie and Co.'s splendid ship was ready to sail. Many of its officers knew me, and when they heard of my arrival caUed upon me, yet none recognised for some time their acquaintance of scarcely a year back. But who also hunted me out ? Poor old Holly, very much the worse for wear. While I remained at the hotel he never left me, and added much to my biU by his still existing penchant for brandy and soda-water. He insisted upon seeing me on board, and I had not the heart to say no. When time for him to return, there was some difficulty in getting him shipped, for he had taken off his boots, and could not get them on again. At length he was in the stern-sheets of the little craft, aU right, the boat gave a roU, and off his hat went to leeward — for it was blowing hard at the time. However, I sent below for one to replace it. As he stood up to receive it another roll occurred, and both his boots disappeared into the sea. In no way disconcerted he selected as comfortable a position as he could find, stretched his legs along the seat, and commenced, as of old, to sing " The Bed, White, and Blue." E E 466 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. Fair winds soon took us round to Cape ToAvn, where we embarked a select and most charming number of pas sengers, among whom were the Premier and leader of the Opposition, Sir Theophilus Shepstone, and the de legates from Natal, also Mr. Kirkwood, Mr. Lamb, and many others. From all — many of whom were old friends — I received the greatest kindness, when well enough to come on deck, which did not occur tiU we were far into the trade winds. After that I seldom left it, but attended their little gatherings, -where politics were certain to be discussed. As I was the latest arrival from the interior, my opinion was often listened to, so I was dubbed the Honourable Member for Matabele. Fair weather followed us, the good ship steadUy and rapidly pursued her course towards her home, and on my arrival in Plymouth I had again to owe to Messrs. Donald Currie and Co., and their officers, grateful thanks for enjoying one of the pleasantest voyages I have made in my life. When I landed I first realised that at length I had broken the link that connected me vrith the stirring life and scenes so lately gone through in the Kalahari Desert, or Great Thirst Land. the END. CASSELL PETTER & GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAOE WORKS, LONDON, E.C.