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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Bought* with the income
of the
D. NEWTON BARNEY FUND

INAL
OF A VOYAGE FROM
OKKAK,
ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR,
TO
UNGAVA BAY,
WESTWARD OF CAPE CIIUJDLEIGH;
UNDERTAKEN
To explore the Coast, and visit the Esquimaux in that
unknown Region.
BY
BENJAMIN KOHLMEISTER, AND GEORGE KMOCH,
MISSIONARIES OP THE CHURCH OP THE
UNITES FRATRUM or UNITED BRETHREN.

ILonDon:
Printed by W. MTJowall, Pembertom Kow, Gough Squire, Pl«et stre«,
FOR THE BRETHREN'S SOCIETY* FOR THE FURTHERANCE OF THE
GOSPEL AMONG THE HEATHEN.
AND SOLD BY J. LE FEBVHE, 2, CHAPEL-PLACE, NEVILS-CO VRT, FETTER-1.ANE ;
L. B. SEELEY, 1C9, FLEET-STREET; HAZARD AND BINNS, B-ATHJ
AND T. I1ULGIN, AND T. LAMBt, BHIITOL.
1814.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE,
$c. $c.

INTRODUCTION.

FOR these many years past, a considerable number of
Esquimaux have been in the annual practice of visiting the
three missionary establishments of the United Brethren on
the coast of Labrador, Okkak, Nain, and Hopedale, chiefly
with a view to barter, or to see those of their friends and ac
quaintance, who had become obedient to the gospel, and lived
together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the instruction of
the Missionaries.
These people came mostly from the north, and some of
them from a great distance. They reported, that the body
of the Esquimaux nation lived near and beyond Cape Chud-
leigh, which they call Killinek, and having conceived much
friendship for the Missionaries, never failed to request, that1
some of them would come to their country, and even urged
the formation of a new settlement, considerably to the north
of Okkak.
To these repeated and earnest applications the Mission
aries were the more disposed to listen, as it had been disco
vered, not many years after the establishment of the Mission
in 1771, that that part of the coast on which, by the encou
ragement of the British goverriment, the fi^st settlement was
made, was very thinly inhabited, and that the aim of the
Mission, to convert the Esquimaux to Christianity, would be

better obtained, if access could be had to the main body of
the Indians, from which the roving inhabitants appeared to
be mere stragglers. Circumstances, however, prevented
more extensive plans from being put in execution ; and the
Missionaries, having gained the confidence and esteem of
the Esquimaux in their neighbourhood, remained stationary
on that coast, and, by degrees, formed three settlements,
Okkak, to the north, and Hopedale, to the south of Nain,
their first place of residence.
In consequence of the abovementioned invitation, it be
came a subject of serious consideration, by what means a
more correct idea of the extent and dwelling-places of the
Esquimaux nation might be obtained, and a general wish was
expressed, that one or more of the Missionaries would un
dertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were
reported, by the Esquimaux themselves to contain more in
habitants than the southern coast, but remained unknown to
European navigators.
The Synodal Committee, appointed for the management
of the Missions of the United Brethren, having given their
consent to the measure, and agreed with Brother Kohlmeis-
ter, by occasion of a visit paid by him to his relations and
friends in Germany, as to the mode of putting it into execu
tion, he .returned to Labrador in 1810, and prepared to un
dertake the voyage early in the spring of 181 1 .
For several years a correspondence had taken place be
tween the Missionaries in Labrador and the Brethren's So
ciety for the Furtherance of the Gospel, established in Lon
don, relating to the manner in which the voyage should be
performed. Opinions were various on the subject; but it
was at length determined, that a steady intelligent Christian
Esquimaux, possessing a shallop, with two masts, and of
sufficient dimensions, should be appointed to accompany one
or two Missionaries, for a liberal recompence; and that the
travellers should spend the winter at Okkak, to be ready to

proceed on the voyage) without loss of time, as soon as the
state of the ice would permit of it. Brother Kohlmeister
proposed, in this view, the Esquimaux Jonathan, of Hope-
dale, and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of
necessaries to the three settlements, was ordered to proceed
first to Hopedale, partly with a view to this negociation. She
arrived safe with Brother Kohlmeister at this place, on the
22d July, 1810. On the same day, he proposed to Jonathan
the intended expedition, laid before him the whole plan,
with all its difficulties and advantages, and found him im
mediately willing to undertake the voyage, and to forward
its object by every means in his power.
This was no small sacrifice on the part of Jonathan. An
Esquimaux is naturally attached to the place of his birth ;
and, though he spends the summer, and indeed great part of
the year, necessarily, and from inclination, in roving from
one place to another in quest of food; yet in winter he set
tles, if possible, upon his native spot, where he is esteemed
and beloved. This was eminently the case with Jonathan.
He was a man of superior understanding and skill, possessed
of uncommon presence of mind in difficulties and dangers,
and at Hopedale considered as the principal person, or chief
of his nation. But he was now ready to forsake all, and to
go and reside at Okkak, among strangers, having no autho
rity or pre-eminence, and to undertake a voyage of unknown
length and peril, from whence he could not be sure of a safe
or speedy return, before the ice might set in, and confine
him upon an unknown shore, during the whole of a second
winter. There was, however, one consideration which out
weighed every other in his mind, and made him, according
to his own declaration, forget all difficulties and dangers.
He hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen
in the north would, in time, be a means of their becoming
acquainted with the gospel of Christ, and partakers of the ;
same blessings which he now enjoyed. This made him wil-

ling to accept of the call without any hesitation. Nor did he
ever, during the Whole voyage, forsake that generous princi
ple, by which he was at first influenced, but his cheerful,
firm, and faithful conduct proved, under all circumstan
ces, most honourable to the character of a true convert to
Christianity. Brother Kohlmeister being; after seventeen years resi
dence in Labrador, complete master of the Esquimaux
language, and deservedly beloved and respected both by*
Christians and heathens, and possessing an invincible zeiat
to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare, was a
man eminently qualified to undertake the commission, and
to conciliate the affections of unknown heathen. He had
also previously made himself acquainted with the use of the
quadrant, and with other branches of science, useful on such
an occasion.
Brother Kmoch, his companion, joined to other essential
qualifications, great cheerfulness and intrepidity.
All the parties having met at Okkak, in the autumn of
1810, the winter was partly spent in preparations for the
intended expedition, and Jonathan's boat put into the best
possible state of repair.

CHAPTER I.
Outfit. Opinions qfthe Esqvtimanx respecting the Voyage.
Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak.
Arrival at Nttngorome.
JUNE 16, 1811. The ice began to loosen in the bay of
Okkak, and to drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was
quite cleared of it; but on the 18th, it returned, and seemed
to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we in
tended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely.

20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge
of the water, and being floated by the tide, she came to
anchor at six, P.M. She had been purchased by Jona
than, at Chateau^bay, and was about 45 feet long, twelve
broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished
her with a complete deck, and divided her into three parts.
The centre was our own cabin, into which all our baggage
was stowed : the two other divisions were occupied by the
Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was taken
in tow.
21st. We began to ship our provision and baggage: viz.
six cwt. of ship's biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease> one cwt.
of salt pork and best beef, (of which but a small portion was
consumed, as we were generally well supplied with fresh
provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of butter, half
cwt. of captain's biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small bar
rels of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half
cwt. of tobacco, two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale, a few
bottles of brandy, eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all
consumed, coffee and biscuits being our usual repast; a
case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for barter, if neces
sary ; kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man
had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in reserve.
After bringing all on board, we had just room enough to
sleep in our cabin.
22d, was spent in conferring with our brethren, on various
subjects relating to the voyage.
23d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the
most affectionate manner, and with many tears, bid us and
our company farewell. They were the more affected with
grief on this occasion, as the greatest part of our own Es
quimaux thought the vogage impracticable, and expected
that we should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh,
(Killinek) on account of the violence of the currents, setting
round between the cape, and the many rocks and islands

whicli stretch from it towards the north. Reports had "like
wise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esqui
maux in the Ungava bay ; and it was boldly asserted, that
ifwe even got there alive, we should never return. An old
conjuror, (Angekok), Atsugarsuk, had been particularly
active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny but that
they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but
being fully determined to venture in the name of God, and
trusting in His protection, we were thankful that they failed"
to produce the intended effect on Jonathan, our guide, and
on the other Esquimaux, who were to go with us, and who
all remained firm.
When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux
would kill him, he generally answered : " Well, we will try,
" and shall know better when we get there:" and once,
conversing with us on the subject, expressed himself thus :
-*** When I hear people talking about the danger of being
" killed, I think : Jesus went to death out of love to us,
*' what great matter would it be, if we were to be put to
" death in His service, should that be His good pleasure
" concerning us."
24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace
and protecting care of God our Saviour, and to the kind
remembrance of our dear fellow missionaries, we set sail at
two P. M.
Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families:
1. Jonathan, and his wife Sybilla, both between fifty and
sixty years old. He was esteemed one of the most skilful
commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and for many
years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the
missionaries in a variety of ways. The boat was his own
property, and we considered him as the captain of the
expedition. 2. Jonas, Jonathan's son, and his wife Agnes,
about thirty years of age, both intelligent, clever Esquimaux;
they had their five children with them; Sophia, twelve years

old, Susanna, Jonathan, Thamar, and Sybilla, the youngest
but half a year old. 3. Paul, and his wife Mary, very
agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul
is Jonathan's cousin, and a man of a very warm temper.
In activity and skill, he was next to Jonathan, 4. David,
and his mother Rachel, the first a hopeful young man of
about twenty, and the latter a good-natured old woman,
who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them
clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we
took with us a boy, Okkiksuk, an orphan, about sixteen,
whom Jonathan had adopted, and who promised to reward
the kindness of his guardian by his good behaviour. He
was always ready to render us every service in his power.
We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or wo
man's boat) in which were Thukkekina and his wife, and
their adopted child Mammak, a boy twelve years old. Their
age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended as a refuge,
in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was
useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close
in shore. The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thuk
kekina and his wife to Okkak. They considered it as a great
favour conferred on them to be permitted to accompany us.
Jonas and his family occupied the after-part, and the rest
the fore-part of the boat. The wind was moderate, and due
west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half an
hour, behind the N. E. point of the island Okkak, called
Sungolik. At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent,
.forming a moderately high headland, and the nearest place
to Okkak, where Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three
winter-houses were standing.
The wind failing, we cast off the skin-boat, which rowed
merrily a-head. Before us, between the islands to the east
and the continent, we saw much drift-ice, and it required at
tention to avoid the large shoals, the wind comjng round
c

ID
to the N. W. We cast anchor at Nunoorome, a cove about
ten English miles from Okkak, where we found several of
our Esquimaux,1 who had here their summer-station. Several
had come from Naujasiorvik and other places, on purpose to
meet us, and once more to express their affection and best
Wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the evening,
we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered
a short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep
on board the boat.

CHAPTER II.
Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon.
Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. WaterfallsfromtheKaumayok
Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak,
or Straits.
NUNGOROME is a cove on the south side of the Island
Pacharvik. Between this island the main land is a narrow
strait, so shallow that no whales can pass. The Esquimaux
stretch their nets across, to catch seals, seeking shelter in it
when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can only
be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which fre
quent this coast are of the Kairolik kind, a middle-sized ani
mal, and of the Ugsuk, the largest species of the seal tribe,
weighing sometimes from five to six cwt.
The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were
at present stationed here, in tents, were Moses, Samuel,
Thomas, Isaac, Bammiuk, and their families. Solomon,
who has left our communion, was also here. He had for
merly been a communicant member of Okkak congregation,
but could not resist the temptation of going to the north to
feast with the heathen Esquimaux, whenever they had caught

11
a live, or found a dead whale. On such occasions* he was se
duced to commit many irregularities and sins, but always re
turned to us with a show of great contrition and repentance.
After many relapses, he was informed, that this would do no
longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish feasts,
he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man,
and perceived the justice of the sentence ; but his love of
that species of amusement overcame all his good resolutions.
He not only went again, but took also another wife ; a step
which, of course, excluded him from our fellowship. Yet
he is very desirous that his children may receive a Christian
education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.
25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morn
ing, and suffering the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready ;
he then fired his piece, by which Brother Kohlmeister and all
the Esquimaux, young and old, were suddenly roused from
their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the unex
pected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding
the sea quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair
wind; but after yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves
as usual, the Esquimaux with great good humour got ready,
and we set sail at half past three. Passed Pacharvik Island
at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as
the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) be
tween Cape Mugford Island, in 58° N. latitude, and the
mountains of Kaumayok. Their being in company retarded
our progress, but in the sequel proved no disadvantage.
About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a dis
tance much drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoeh
and Jonas landed on Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux,
called Niakungetok, accompanied them to the top of ,an
eminence, from whence the outer opening of the Ikkerasak
was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the
sea in such quantities as to threaten to close it up.
Cape Mugford is an high island, extending far into the

12
ocean, and the northern land-mark in steering for Okkak,
Kiglapeit promontory bearing south, and the Saddle-island
appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their
return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, and we
steered for a dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty
miles from Okkak, called Ukkuararsuk. To our great joy
the ice began now to drive out again to sea, and we resolved
to go with it. A gentle S. W. wind brought us to the place,
Where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with
large fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had
nearly cleared the straits, when the great quantity of sur
rounding ice, pressing upon us, prevented our making further
attempts, and we were compelled to work our way back
with oars and boat-»ho6ks.
On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esqui
maux, who by signs directed our course towards a conve
nient harbour, near their dwellings, which we reached in
safety. The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept
on board.
The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The
strait is about an English mile broad, and four or five in
length. Both shores are lined with precipitous rocks, which
in many places rise to a tremendous height, particularly on
the Kaumayok side, from whence several waterfalls rush
into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air. The
singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased
when illuminated by the rising sun, the spray exhibiting the
most beautiful prismatic colours. Below them huge masses
of ice are formed, which seem to lean against the sides of
the rocks, and to be continually increasing during the win
ter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun,
and disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides,
and help to form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies
S, W, by N. E.

13
26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the
weather fine and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed
across the straits to the nearest great cataract, and were
able, notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, to get
pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet perpendicular,
and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it,
like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers
completely. They amused themselves some time by rolling
large stones into the fall, which by its force were carried'
along towards the sea, down the sloping torrent below.
Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a hearty
meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion,
overcoming our dislike' to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-
grass was made for supper.
27th. We left this harbour about four A. M. with a favour
able wind at West, but as it soon died away, we took to our
oars, and reached the north point of Kaumayok, at the
northern extremity of the strait. By an observation taken
by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57° 59' N.
latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the
sea, and the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain
not a little, to the diversion of the other Esquimaux. About
two P.M. the wind shifted to the N.W. By tacking we
got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but having
the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were
at length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the
strait. 28th. Tbe wind being North we could not proceed. We
therefore ascended the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a
barren rock, though here and there a solitary plant or a tuft
of moss clings to its steep sides, and is difficult of access.
The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which still rose
above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several
small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a
great height perpendicularly into the sea.

14
We couM here discern the island of Okkak, to the S. W.
to the East, the boundless ocean, and to the N. E. three high,
barren, and steep islands, called Nennoktuts by the Esqui
maux, (WMte mountains.)

CHAPTER III.
Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountain?,
end of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Suntk&p.
Saeglelc and its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries
visit the Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak.
JUNE 29th. WE rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out
of the Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly
calm and smooth. Brother Kmoch rowed in. the small boat
along the fpot of the mountains of Kaumayok, sometimes
going on shore, while the large boat was making but little
way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The
outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful
figures. At various points, the rocks descend abruptly, into
the sea, presenting horrid precipices. The strand is covered
with a black sand. At the height of about fifty feet from the
sea, the rocks have veins of red, yellow, and green stone,
running horizontally and parallel, and sometimes in an un
dulated form. Above these, they present the appearance
of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting
a gothic building, varying in height and thickness, and here
and there intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens,
running far inland between the mountains. Loose stones
above, have in some places the appearance of statues, and the
superior region exhibits all kind of grotesque shapes. It is
by far the most singular and picturesque chain of mountains
on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name.

15
Of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed
at a distance, with its dome and two towers.
Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohlmeister landed,
and found the beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour
white and grey, like statuary marble, but very hard. We
now steered for Kangertluksoak, a winter-station of the
Esquimaux, where several of our people had pitched their
tents. At noon, we were off an island, called Eingosiarsuk, {the
Little Cup), opposite the Ittiplek, (a flat piece of ground
joining two headlands) over which the northern Esquimaux
pass in sledges to Okkak, round Kaumayok. Farther
towards the N. W. lies Tuppertalik, a high ridge of moun
tains, which, from its appearance, we called the Table
mountain, having nearly the shape of the mountain so called
at the Cape of Good Hope.
To the north lies Nellekartok, the outermost island on
leaving the Ikkerasak, and the first of the Kangertluksoak
islands. Behind Tuppertalik, a bay opens called Nappartok
(a wood), a winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up
the country, about eight or ten hours drive from Okkak.
A good harbour for large vessels is said to be here, called
Umiakovitannak, (Broad boat-harbour). Before the en
trance to Nayrpartok, lies an island, Naujartsit, (the Little
Sea-gull island). Seven or eight miles, north of Nappertok,
a long flat point runs out, terminated by a small island. On
approaching towards Kangertluksoak, a long island runs
parallel with the coast called Muektalik, (a burial-place)',
between which and the main land is a strait, affording good
shelter for boats. Into this Jonathan intended to run, but
the wind being favourable, we kept on our course, and passed
two islands, Kingmiktok, (Dog island), and farther north,
Ktkkertarsoak, a great island which defends the entrance
into the harbour of Kangertluksoak, from the sea. At ten
P. M. we came to an anchor in the harbour, and were re-

16
feeived by our Esquimaux, of whom several families were
stationed here, as well as by the other inhabitants, with
demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept
on the right side of the great bay, and our own Christian
Esquimaux, on the left, fired numberless shots to welcome
us. Several boats were here from Killinek and Nachvak,
bound to Okkak.
Kangertluksoak lies about sixty miles north of Okkak,
is an agreeable place, and has a good strand, and safe an
chorage. 30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and
visited all the Christian families, by whom they were received
with the most lively expressions of affection and gratitude.
Many strangers from the opposite coast had joined them,
and they all seated themselves in a large circle on the
grass. Nikupsuk's wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the
believers, was here, and said, with much apparent contrition,
that she was unworthy to be numbered with them. She
then seated herself at a little distance from the rest.
The number of the congregation, including our boat's
company, amounted to about fifty. Brother Kohlmeister
first addressed them, by greeting them from their brethren
at Okkak, and expressing our joy at finding them well
in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking worthy
of their Christian profession, as a good example to their
heathen neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit
of true devotion pervaded the whole assembly.
Our veiy hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but
lately been a den of murderers, dedicated, as it were, by
the angekoks, or sorcerers, to the service of the devil, to
hear the cheerful voices of converted heathen, most melo
diously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving glory
to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheer
ful countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing Es
quimaux.

17
Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us
much to be their guests, which we should have accepted of
with pleasure, but we thought it prudent to avail ourselves
©f the favourable wind and weather, to proceed. Instead,
therefore, of dining with them, we presented to each tent a
quart of pease, which is considered by the Esquimaux as a
great luxury, and was received- with unbounded thank
fulness. About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S.E. for
Saeglek. The coast presents here, moderately high, barren
mountains, without bays or islands. The wind becoming
more violent, the rope, by which we kept the skin-boat in
tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was frequently
hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were
in no apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are
much safer, in a high sea, than a European one.
At seven P. M. we arrived at Saeglek, and were saluted
by the firing of muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Es
quimaux have their dwellings on a small flat island, between
two of larger size, but the strand is bad, and full of sharp
shingles. There are about five or six winter-houses at
Saeglek, containing each about two or three families.
July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, Joas and Uiverunna,
came in their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their
families, inhabited some tents we had seen yesterday. Bro
ther' Kohlmeister spoke seriously, to them on the necessity
of conversion, especially to Joas, who had Christian parents,
and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He reminded him
of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth j that he
therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him
who had created and redeemed him; and that the greatest
of, all the sins he now committed, was. his persisting in his
determination not to return. He seemed to listen with
some humility to the loving and earnest reproof and exhor
tations of the Missionary, but at last excused himself hy

laying the blame upon his mother, who kept him back,
adding, that he still intended to be converted.
Our people had meanwhile made a five, and put the po*
on to boil pease; but the wind changing, Jonathan deter*
mined immediately to proceed. The pease had just begun*
to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had presented us with
some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our
meal; but finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell
to, and having greedily devoured a quantity of the half-
boiled pease, and filled their gloves wijth the rest, they took
leave, and set sail about 1 1, A. M.
Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in
their kayaks, that the Saeglek people were all on the north-
side of the island of Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither^
and having doubled the point, saw seven tents full of people .
Two of them contained families from Killinek. But the
violence of the wind was such, that w© could not stay in
this unsheltered' place with safety. We therefore worked;
our way, with the help of the Esquimaux, round another-
ppk)t, into a roadstead, rather more sheltered, than the
former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco is the re
ward expected and given for such assistance.
The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polish
ed by the sea, and each about the size of an hen's egg.
Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the
Esquimaux in their tents. Many heathen were at this-
place, to whom he preached the gospel, and invited them to
believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who would deliver-
them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed
His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souk.
He was. heard with great attention. A venerable old man,
with hair as white as wool, particularly attracted our no-.
tice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by name, took hold or"
both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him . Brother
RohlmeisteiF- inquired, whether he knew him. The old man

19
replied: " Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name
" at Okkak. I therefore rejoice to see thee." He seemed
qiiite at a loss, what way to exj3res§ his affection; and at
length delivered a strap of seals' -leather to Mr. Kohlmeister,
with these words i " I ani pdor, ahd have nothing else tb
" §ive th&e, yet I wish lo give thee seine tokeh df my love."
Brother Kohlmeister aefcepted df his present, and inwardly
cried to the Lord, to show mercy to this poor ignorant
heathen* " You are old," said he, u &nd have not much
" more time to live in this wofld^ Will you not ttlrn to that
" Jesus* who has died for your sifts also ? It is hbt His desire
" that you should perikh3 and be lost in everlasting dafk-
" hessj but that you should live with Him in the place of
" light and immortal bliss." The old than1 replied : "What
" shall I do ? thy words are v6ry JDleasarit, and I would fain
" hear much more of Jesus ; I do nbt wish to be lost iri
" the1 plaee of darkness?' Brother Kohlmeister answered,
that if he sincerely wished to bd saved, and was troubled on
account of his siriful life, he shoiild believe^ in, and call on
the name of Jesus, who would certainly hear ahd reveal
Himself unto hirii. Many people were present ih the tent,
Who behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohl
meister earnestly addressed on the necessity of conversion.
He wished to prolong the conversation, especially with the
old Irian, Who promised, that he would never forget the words
spoken to hirii, but it was growing late, arid we returned to
our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some me-
dicine Was left for him.
The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about
twenty English miles. Saeglek is a considerable promon-
tory> open to the south.

SQ

CHAPTER IV.
'Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach Nacff
vak. Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. De
tention on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak.
JULY 2d. At one A. M. we set sail, steering for Nachvak, a
distance of about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains
runs north and south, nearly parallel with the coast. The
coast itself is of moderate height, but veiy steep, and not
being defended by any island, the approach to it as a lee-
shore, is veiy dangerous. It runs generally in a pretty strait
line about forty miles, when a wide bay opens, in which liesj
towards the north, an island called Kamgalersiorvik, where
there is said to be a good harbour for boats. The rocks, of
which the mountains are composed, are of a white, grey
colour, streaked almost perpendicularly with veins of black
stone, about two feet broad. The intermediate strata may
be about eight times as broad. We had hoped to reach
Nachvak in the morning, by continuing our course through
the following night, though the wind was weak and' variable,
but in the evening we got into drift-ice : yet as the shoals
were not close together, we worked our way through them,
and stood on with the little -wind we had at S. E.
3d. At dawn of day, and being still four miles distant from
Nachvak, we perceived both in the open sea, and all along th§
shore, that our passage was completely occupied with floating
ice, which drove towards us, and forced us back. We then
endeavoured to find shelter in a bay bounded by high moun
tains, but found none, the wind driving the ice after us into
it, and soon filling it. Jonathan frequently cried out with a
plaintive voice: "Alas, alas, we shall soon be without a
" boat ! " We now hastened to the opposite shore to find some

21
«o\ve or inlet, but getting more and more entangled ainong
the ice, were at last obliged, some to land, and haul the
boat with ropes round the points, and others with boat-
hooks and spars, to keep her off the rocks. Two or three
times she stuck fast on sunken rocks, but by God's mercy
always got off again without damage. At lengtii we disco
vered three narrow inlets, the middlemost forming a bay,
being the estuaiy of a river, which runs W. S. W. about
eight or ten miles up the country, and is called Nullatartok.
Into this we pushed, when shortly after our entrance, the ice
entirely filled up the passage, and vve were compelled to
retreat to the uppermost part, choosing the shallowest pos
sible spot to anchor in. The bay itself is about two miles
in breadth, and only in the middle deep enough to admit
the larger fields of drift ice to float into it. The strand is
broad, and slopes off gently. It is covered with large tables
of slate. The mountains on each side are high, and seem to
consist of ferruginous slate, the lamina or plates of which
ape of such immense size, that they might serve for entire
walls. Towards the sea, there exudes from these rocks, a
yellowish white substance, which has a strong sulphureous
smell. It was so powerful, that if a drop fell on a piece of
tinned iron, it removed the tin in a few minutes.
The vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of
flowers. Not far from the spot where we had pitched our tents,
(which rested upon a carpet of potentilla aurea, in full bloom,
bringing to our minds the European meadows, full of butter
cups), the river, which is of considerable breadth, falls into
the bay. lt abounds with fine salmon-trout. Farther to the
westward, two other rivers flow into it, one of which is much
broader than the other, and has a large cataract at some dis
tance from its mouth. The upper parts of the moiuitains are
.covered partly with moss, and partly with low brush-wood,
birch, and alder, and many berry-bearing shrubs and plant**,

22
but no high trees. We found here both arnica and dolts«foot
in great plenty. Brother Kohlriieister gathered and dried a
quantity of each, as they are used in medical cases, and the
former cannot be procured from England.
The slate is extremely shivery, and is found in slabB* ei*
ther lying or standing upright, from four to eight feet square,
most easily splitting into thin plates, Ascending the moun*
tain, they are soon dislodged, by the tread of a man's foot*
and glide down towards the beach With a rattling, tinkling
noise. At low water, we noticed a bed of stone resembling
cast iron, of a reddish hue* and polished by the friction of
the water. After supping on salmon-trout, caught in the
first-rmentioned river, we retired to rest; but had some fears
even here for the Safety of our boat, the ice pushing in to*
wards us, and our people being employed day and night in
warding off the large shoals With their boat-hooks.
4th. The weather being fair, Brother Kmoch ascended to
the top of the highest part of the mountain near us, from
Whence he could see nothing but drift-ice, powerfully in hkm
tion towards the bay. Four of our Esquimaux went up the
country to hunt reindeer; saw eight head and two fawns,
but got none.
Perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some
duration, we for the first time pitched our tents on shore.
Our morning and evening devotion was attended by the whole
party ; and on Sundays We read the Litany, and conducted
the service in the usual way, which proved to us and our
Esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in ail diffi-»
qulties. We were detained here, by the ice, from the 3d td
the 15th, and our faith and patience were frequently put
to the trial. Meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking
up the declivities of the hills, and into the fine green and
flowery vallies around us.
5th. We went up the western extremity of the bay, but
found nothing worth notice. Here the rocks appeared to bfi
of a species of freestone.

25
6th. In the evening we met in Jonathan's tent. Brother
Kohlmeister addressed the company, and reminded them^
that to-day the holy communion would be celebrated in ouf
congregations, which we could not do in this place, under
present circumstances. Then kneeling down, he offered up
a fervent prayer, entreating the Lord not to forget us in this
wilderness, but to give us to feel His all-reviving presence,
and to feed our hungry and thirsty souls, out of the fulness
of His grace. A comfortable sense of His love and peace fil
led all our hearts, on this occasion.
In the evenmg, Paul began to read out of the Harmony
of the four Evangelists, which we shall continue as often as
circumstances will admit of it. Jonathan and Jonas gene
rally conduct the daily morning and evening worship.
7th. We were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards
us, that we were obliged in part to unload the boat, to be
able to bring it into a safer situation in shallow water; and
took our turns, three relieving three, to watch and guard off
the larger shoals with boat-hooks, by day and night. We
were glad to have reached a place, sheltered on all sides from
the wind.
8th. Our people went out to look for reindeer, and no
prospect of our proceeding to sea appearing, they resolved
to stay out all night.
9th. Jonas returned and reported, that they had seen
reindeer, but were not able to shoot any. Paul and Thuk-
kekina went to day to the western mountains, and staid over
night. 10th. Brother Kmoch went to the westward to look for
birds. He saw a large flight of sea-fowl, but they were ex
tremely shy*, and would not permit him to get near them.
From the hills around us, we perceived that the entrance into
the bay was completely blocked up with ice ; and towards the
sea, nothing but one continued field of ice appeared. We
sighed and prayed to the Lord to help us in this time of need.

24
Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot an Ugsuk, not, far from
our tent. Towards evening, we saw a fire made by our
reindeer-hunter.s, at the western extremity of the bay, and
they fired their pieces to give us notice, that they had got some
game, and that we should fetch it with the small boat.
Okkiksuk therefore -went, and found them completely over
come with fatigue, having dragged their game across the
mountains for a considerable distance. The Esquimaux are
indeed able to cany burdens up and down hill, under which
most Europeans would sink, but when they kill a deer far
inland, it is hard-earned food, by the trouble of carrying it
home. Paul had shot two reindeer, of which we received a
portion. Brother Kohlmeister had been on the other side
of the bay, and returned with a large parcel of plants and
flowers, the examination of which afforded him much a-
musement. The Esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seal's.
flesh, of which we were invited to partake. This we did,
and thought it a very palatable mess, particularly as we had
tasted no fresh meat since we had left the North Ikkerasak.
The prejudice of the Europeans against seal's flesh, consists
mostly in imagination. The dirty kettle in which the Es
quimaux boil it, is indeed not calculated to excite an appe
tite, but the meat, when eaten fresh, tastes much like beef;
when cold, it acquires an oily taste ; nor durst a person, not
accustomed to it from his childhood, make a practice of eat
ing it, as it is of a veiy heating nature, and would soon bring
on serious disorders. It generally prevents sleep, if eaten at
supper. 12th. The wind became West, and cleared the bay of the
ice. Brother Kmoch and Jonathan went to the opposite shore
and found winter-houses, one of which had been inhabited
last winter ; two others were in ruins. They climbed the
highest eminence towards Nachvak, but saw nothing but
drift-ice, covering the sea, with but few spots of open water
to the north.

25
13th. It blew hard from the West. David and Okkiksuk
crossed the bay to explore the state of the ice from the hills.
In the evening they returned with intelligence, that the sea
was cleared of ice to the northward. David had caught a
netsek, (a small species of seal), and we had taken a good
draught of trout in the net before our tent.
14th. Jonathan roused us at four in the morning, the
wind being in our favour, and we immediately made prepa
rations to depart. After breakfast, as we were praying the
Litany, a sudden storm arose. We were assembled in Jo
nathan's tent, and the stones and pegs, with which it had
been fastened down to the ground, being already removed,
the tent-skins were soon blown about our heads by the vio
lence of the wind, and we were now obliged patiently to
wait till the storm abated. In the midst of our delibera
tions, accompanied with expressions of our disappointment,
Thukkekina gravely observed, that we might very likely get
away this summer, and need not be dismayed. Towards
evening, it fell calm, and the musquitoes teazed us un
mercifully. We supped on fresh salmon, filled our tents
with smoke, to keep off our winged tormentors, shut our
selves in, and forgot our grievances and Thukkekina's
consolations in sound sleep.
15th. In the morning at three o'clock,, we took a final
leave of Nullatartok bay, and got under way with a favour
able, though rather. boisterous wind at S.W. having been
detained here for twelve days by the ice. After about an
hour's sail, we were near the entrance of the inlet, when a
sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after- top
mast, with sail and tackle. It fell with great noise on -the
deek, and into the sea. By God's mercy no one was hurt,
and we were more particularly thankful, that of the five
children on board, none were just then on deck.
It once happened, that the main-yard fell down, and but
narrowly missed striking two children, who with a third.
s

26
were sitting and playing together. They must inevitably
have lost their lives, had it fallen upon them. We praised
God for their preservation during the whole voyage. By the
above-mentioned disaster, we were obliged to run into a
small cove, where we repaired the mast with all speed, and
proceeded with a gentle wind towards Nachvak, A calm
ensued, and as there is no anchorage between Nullatartok
and Nachvak, we rowed all night, and felt the advantage of
the great length of days, at this season of the year.
16th. The view we had of the magnificent mountains of
Nachvak, especially about sun-rise, afforded us and our Es
quimaux great gratification. Their south-east extremity
much resembles Saddle island near Okkak, being high,
steep, and of singular shape. These mountains in gene
rai are not unlike those of Kaumayok for picturesque out
line. In one place, tremendous precipices form a vast am
phitheatre, surmounted by a ledge of green sod, which
seemed to be the resort of an immense number of sea-gulls
and other fowls, never interrupted by the intrusion of man.
They flew with loud screams backwards and foiwards over
our heads, as if to warn off such unwelcome visitors. In
another place, a narrow chasm opens into the mountain,
widening into a lagoon, the surrounding rocks resembling
the ruins of a large Gothic building, with the green ocean
for its pavement, and the sky for its dome. The weather
being fine, and the sun cheering us with his bright rays, af
ter a cold and sleepless night, we seemed to acquire new vi
gour, by the contemplation of the giand features of nature
around us. We now perceived some Esquimaux with a wo
man's boat, in a small bay, preparing to steer for Nachvak.
They fired their pieces, and called to us to join them, as they
had discovered a stranded whale. Going on shore to survey
the remains of this huge animal, we found it by no means 3,
pleasant sight. It lay upon the rocks, occupying a space
about thirty feet in diameter, but was much shattered; and

27
in a decaying state. Our people, however, cut off a quantity
of blubber from its lips. The greater part of the blubber of
this fish was lost, as the Esquimaux had no means of con
veying it to Okkak.
The Esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness
to assist us ; and as our party was much fatigued with row
ing all night, they towed us into Nachvak, where we arrived
about 2 P. M. Old Kayaluk and a young man, Parnguna,
and his wife, were here. The latter called on Brother Kohl
meister, and thanked him for having saved her life. He had
forgotten that he had once given her medicine at Okkak in a
dangerous illness, but her gratitude was still unbounded,

CHAPTER V.
Heception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esqui
maux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian de
portment of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas' s
address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these
Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling
the North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay.
JULY 16th  After two or three hours sleep incur cabin,
we went on shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a tem
porary station, about fifty in number, received us with
every mark of attention. Loud shouts of joy resounded from
all quarters, and muskets were fired in eveiy direction. They
could scarcely wait with patience for our landing, and when
we pitched our tent, were all eager to assist; thus we were
soon at home among them. Seven tents were standing on
the strand, and we found the people here differing much in
their manners from the people at Saeglek. Their behaviour-
was modest and rather bashful, nor were we assailed by beg*

28
gars and importunate intruders, as at the latter place, where
beggary seemed quite the fashion, and proved very trouble
some to us. But we had no instance of stealing. Thieves
are considered by the Esquimaux in general with abhorrence,
and with a thief no one is willing to trade. We have disco
vered, however, that that propensity is not altogether want
ing in the northern Esquimaux, who, now and then, if they
think that they can do it without detection, will make a little
free with their neighbour's property.
The Esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome,
but attended our morning and evening prayers with great
silence and apparent devotion. Indeed, to our great surprise,
they behaved altogether with uncommon decorum and regu -
larity during our stay.
17th. Being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the
bay, we pitched our tent on shore. We examined the bay
more minutely. It extends to the West to a considerable
depth, and is not protected by any islands, except a few
rocks, at some, distance in the sea. The surrounding moun
tains are very high, steep, and barren, and verdure is found
only in the vallies. Here the arnica montana, which the
Missionaries have found of great use among the Esquimaux,
grows in great abundance. Salmon-trout are caught in eve*
ry creek and inlet.
Like the salmon, they remain in the rivers and fresh-water
lakes during the winter, and return to the sea in spring.
The Esquimaux about Okkak and Saeglek, catch them in
winter under the ice by spearing. For this purpose, they
make two holes in the ice, about eight inches in diameter,
and six feet asunder, in a direction from north to south. The
northern hole they screen from the sun, by a bank of snow
about four feet in height, raised in a semicircle round its
southern edge, and form another similar bank on the north-
side of the southern holi, sloped in such a manner as to re
flect the rays of the sun into it. The Esquimaux then lies

29
doWn, with his face close to the northern aperture, beneath
which the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams en
tering at the southern. In his left hand he holds a red string,
with which he plays in the water, to allure the fish, and in
his right a spear, ready to strike them as they approach. In
this manner they soon take as many as they want.
The salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eigh
teen inches long, and in August and September so fat, that
the Esquimaux collect from them a sufficient quantity of oil
for their lamps. The immense abundance of these fish on
all parts of the coast, would almost at any time save the Es
quimaux from starving with hunger; but as seals furnish
them both with food and clothing, it is of most consequence
to them to attend to this branch of supply. At Hopedale and
Nain, however, salmon-trout are caught only in the summer.
We were much pleased with the behaviour of our own Es
quimaux, during their stay at Nachvak. In eveiy respect
they conducted themselves, in word and deed, as true Chris
tian people. Their conversation with their heathen coun
trymen, was free and unreserved, and " to the use -of edi-
" fying." Jonathan and Jonas in particular, gave us great
satisfaction. The people having assembled in Jonathan's tent, those
who had no room in it, standing without and listening with
great order and stillness, Brother Kohlmeister addressed
them, explaining the aim of our voyage; that we were go
ing, out of love to their nation, to the northern Esquimaux,
and to those of Ungava bay, to make known to them the
love of God our Saviour; and, by the gospel, to point out to
them the way to obtain life everlasting. We knew that they
were heathen, who, being ignorant of the way to God, were
in bondage to the devil, and would be lost for ever, unless
God had mercy upon them and sent them his word, to lead
them to Jesus Christ their only Saviour, who shed His blood,
and died on the cross to redeem their souls.

so
They received the discourses and exhortations of the Mis
sionary with reverential attention, but those of their own
countrymen, with still greater eagerness, and we hope not
without benefit. Jonas once addressed them thus : " We
" were but lately as ignorant as you are now : we were long
" unable to understand the comfortable words of the gospel:
" we had neither cars to hear, nor hearts to receive them, till
" Jesus, by his power, opened our hearts and ears. Now
" we know what Jesus has done for us, and how great the
" happiness of those souls is, who come unto Him, love
" Him as their Saviour, and know, that they shall not be
" lost, when this life is past. Without this we live in con-
" stant fear of death. You will enjoy the same happiness,
" if you turn to and believe in Jesus. We are not surprised
" that you do not yet understand us. We were once like
*•' you, but now thank Jesus our Redeemer, with tears of
" joy* that He has revealed Himself unto us." Thus, with
cheerful countenances and great energy, did these Christian
Esquimaux praise and glorify the name of Christ our Savi
our, and declare, what he had done for their souls, exhort
ing the heathen likewise to believe.
The above address seemed to make a deep impression on
the minds of all present. One of their leaders, or captains,
exclaimed with great eagerness, in presence of thein all :
" I am determined to be converted to Jesus." His name
is Onalik. He afterwards called upon Brother Kohlmeister,
and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the three
settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to
become a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered:
"¦ That it was indifferent where he lived, if he were only
ft converted and became a child of God, and an heir of life
" eternal," Another, named Tullugaksoak, made the same
declaration, and* added : " That he would no longer live
" among the heathen."
Though the very. fickle disposition of the heathen Esqui*

31
maux, might cause some doubts to arise in our minds, as to
their putting these good resolutions into practice, yet we
hope, that the seed of the word of God, sown in this place,
may not have altogether fallen upon barren ground.
In the evening, our people met in Jonathan's tent, and
sang hymns. Almost all tlie inhabitants were present. They
afterwards spent a long time in pleasant and edifying con
versation. It may here be observed, that the Esquimaux
delight in singing and music. As to national songs, they
have nothing deserving of that name; and the various col
lectors of these precious morsels in our day, would find their
labour lost in endeavouring to harmonize the incantations
of their sorcerers and witches, which more resemble the
bowlings of wolves and growlings of bears, than any thing
human. But though the hymn and psalm- tunes of the Bre
thren's Church are mostly of antient construction, and,
though rich in harmony, have no airy melodies to make
them easily understood by unmusical ears, yet the Esqui
maux soon learn to sing them correctly ; and the voiees of
the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother
Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute,
Paul took it, and immediately picked out the proper stops
in playing several psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the im
perfect state of the instrument would admit. Brother Kmoeh
having taken a violin with him, the same Esquimaux like
wise took it up, and it was not long before he found out the
manner of producing the different notes.
18th. At 8 A. M. Brother Kohlmeister haying delivered a
farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which they
were much affected), we took leave of these goodnatured peo
ple, and set sail with a fair and strong West- wind, but met
with much drift-ice at the entrance of the bay. It made less
way than our boat, and the wind becoming more violent, we
found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tack
ing all day, and a great part of the night, the ice preventing

32
our proceeding, and the wind, our returning to our former
station, we were obliged to make for the Eastern point of
the bay, where we at length succeeded in gaining a small
cove, and cast anchor.
Our situation was singular; the rocks rose in a semicircle
around us, towering perpendicularly to an amazing height,
like an immense wall.
After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined
us, and prevailed on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we
had scarcely reached the centre of the bay, before the vio
lence of the wind drove us out to sea, and we were compel
led to push for the northern promontory, from which all the
ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found
shelter from the wind, which had by this time risen to a
storm. It was late, and as it appeared dangerous to remain
here, we rowed towards the point, but there beheld, with
terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the waves against
the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and re
turned into smooth water, where, however, we were long in
finding a place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly
under shelter of the high rocks. They form the base of
mountains higher than the Kiglapeyd, rise perpendicularly,
in some places impending, with fragments, apparently loose,
hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of grotesque
figures. 19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which
threatened us with destruction, if we ventured to double the
cape. At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round
the point, and glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad,
shallow bay, called Sangmiyok, full both of hidden and visi
ble rocks, in which we cast anchor about five P. M. While
Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen,
Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to
the highest mountain on the promontory. From the top of

33
this mountain they could plainly discern the four principal
headlands between Cape Mugford and Cape Chudleigh. The
former situated in latitude 58° N. the latter in 61°. Be
tween these are four promontories, in a line from S. E. to
N. W. The first is Uivak, at the entrance into Saeglek Bay,
outside of which a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or
sugar-loaf. Next follow the two forming Nachvak Bay>
another Uivak to the south of Nennoktok, upon which we
stood. The fourth is Kakkeviak, not far from Killinek, or
Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts
Blackhead* Nennoktok is called Fake Blackhead.

CHAPTER VI.
Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at
Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esqui
maux travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Net-
sek seal described. Greenland houses. Danger of being
shipwrecked near Kakkeviak.
JULY20th  We proceeded with little or no wind, and taking
to our oars, doubled the great Cape of Nennoktok. Here a
strong swell from the sea met us, and tossed our boat vio
lently about, and, having no wind, it drove us nearer to the
shore than was perfectly safe. We remained about an hour
in this unpleasant situation, when a breeze sprung up, which
carried us out to the open sea among islands. It now began
to rain very hard, and the wind rose. While Brother Kmoch
was assisting the people on deck, Brother Kohlmeister had
enough to do below, to keep peace among the furniture of
our cabin, and sometimes found himself defeated in his at
tempts, pots and pans, and boxes, and every thing that was
not a fixture, tumbling upon him. Several of our people
F

34
were in the skin-boat, and the fury of the wind and sear
would not permit them to come to our assistance. The
weather also became so thick and foggy between the islands>
that we were unable to see to any distance. Jonathan was
therefore glad to have been yesterday on shore, when from
the mountain he discovered the situation of the promontory^
the coast, and the islands before us, and now contrived to
steer in the proper direction. We soon found ourselves in
smoother water, and among islands, where a vast number of
seals and birds made their appearance. At six in the evening
we reached Kummaktorvik, and came to an anchor.
Having landed, Brother Kmoch shot a hare, close to the
beach. These creatures are white in winter, and grey in
summer, and in winter so numerous, that though, when
roasted, they are excellent food, we were almost tired of
them last year at Okkak.
The rain continuing during the whole of the riigtit and
forenoon of the 21st, we found it necessary by sufficient rest
to strengthen ourselves for future watchfulness.
An Esquimaux travelling bed consists of a large bag of
reindeer-skin, with the hair turned inward, covered with
seal-skin, the hair turned outward. It is furnished with a
broad flap to cover the mouth, and a strap to fasten down
the flap. This bag comprehends the whole apparatus and
furniture of an Esquiriiaux bed-room. Having undressed,
the traveller creeps into it, and a kind neighbour having shut
him up close by fastening the strap, he leaves him to sleep
on till morning, When he helps him out again. In summer
the flap is dispensed with. The invention, however, is of
European origin, and a luxury introduced by the Mission
aries; for an Esquimaux lies down in his clothes, without
further preparation.
In the morning we landed, and had the usual Sunday's
service with our people on shore; after Whieh Brother Kohl-
meister visited the Esquimaux in their tents, and had some*

35
religious conversation with them, to which they seemed to
pay attention. Afterwards Kuttaktok, John, Nukkapiak,
and Kajulik, with their wives, came to see us on board.
They are the winter inhabitants of this bay. John was bap
tized in infancy at Okkak, but afterwards left the settlement,
and not only associates with the heathen Esquimaux, but
has even been guilty of murder. All of them, however, come
occasionally to Okkak. They had two tents about four miles
from our landing-place.
22d. The contrary wind forbidding our departure, Brother
Kohlmeister, accompanied by Jonathan, Jonas, and Thuk-
kekina, walked across the countiy to the N. W. bay, to re
turn their visit. When they saw them coming at a distance,
they fired their pieces, to direct them to the tents, and came
joyfully to meet the Missionary and his party. Nothing
could exceed the cordiality with which they received them.
A kettle was immediately put on the fire to cook salmon-
trout, and all were invited to partake, which was the more
readily accepted, as the lengtii of the walk had created an
appetite, the keenness of which overcame all squeamishness.
To do these good people justice, their kettle was rather
cleaner than usual, the dogs having licked it well, and the
fish were fresh and well dressed. To honour the Mission
ary, a box was placed for him to sit upon, and the fish were
served up to each upon a flat stone instead of a plate. After
dinner, Brother Kohlmeister, in acknowledgment for their
civility, gave to each of the women two needles, and a small
portion of tobacco to each man, with which they were highly
delighted. All of them being seated, a very lively and unreserved
conversation took place concerning, the only way of salva
tion, through Jesus Christ, and the necessity of conversion.
With John and his mother Mary, Brother Kohlmeister spoke
very seriously, and represented to them the danger of their
state, as apostates from the faith; but they seem hhindeii

36
by Satan, and determined to persist in their heathenish
life. The Esquimaux now offered to convey the party across
the bay in their skin-boat, which was accepted. Almost all
of them accompanied the boat, and met with a very friendly
reception from our boat's company. In the evening, after
some hymns had been sung by our people, Jonas addressed
them and the heathen Esquimaux in a short, nervous dis
course, on the blessedness of being reconciled unto God.
Kummaktorvik bay runs N. E. and S. W. and is defended
by some islands from the sea. It is about four or five miles
long, and surrounded by high mountains, with some pleasant
plains at their foot, covered with verdure. It's distance from
Nachvak is about twelve miles. This chain of mountains,
as will be hereafter mentioned, may be seen from Kangert-
lualuksoak, in Ungava Bay, which is a collateral proof, that
the neck of land, terminated to the N. by Cape Chudleigh,
is of no great width. Both the Nain and Okkak Esquimaux
frequently penetrate far enough inland to find the rivers
taking a westerly direction, consequently towards the Ungava
country. They even now and then have reached the woods
skirting the estuaries of George and South rivers.
23d. We set sail at sun-rise, but the wind being too high
to suffer us to proceed with safety, we again anchored in a
commodious harbour in Amitok island. Our people were
here busily employed in repairing the damaged rigging and
sails. Towards evening Jonas caught a seal, to the great
gratification of our party. It was dressed immediately, and
we joined them in their repast with a good appetite.
The Netsek is the only species of seal which remains
during the winter under the ice. They form in it large
caverns, in which they bring forth their young, two at a time,
in March. More than one cavern belongs to one seal,
that he may, if disturbed in the first, take shelter in the
'second. No other kind of seal is caught in winter by the
Esquimaux.

37
24th. Brother Kmoch rose at two, and went on shore to
examine the island more minutely. The morning was
beautiful, and the sun rose with great splendour. Amitok
lies N. W. from Kummaktorvik, is of an "oblong shape, and
stretches out pretty far towards the sea. The hills are of
moderate height, the land is in many places flat, but in ge
neral destitute of grass. On the other side are some ruins
of Greenland houses.
The Esquimaux have a tradition, that the Greenlanders
came originally from Canada, and settled on the outermost
islands of this coast, but never penetrated into the country,
before they were driven eastward to Greenland. This report
gains some credit, fiom the state in which the abovemen-
tioned ruins are found. They consist in remains of walls
and graves, with a low stone enclosure round the tomb,
covered with a slab of the same material. They have been
discovered on islands near Nain, and though sparingly, all
along the whole eastern coast, but we saw none in Ungava
bay. The rocks on Amitok contain large masses of a crum
bly, semi-transparent garnet, of a reddish hue. (From
some specimens sent out, it rather appears to be a rose-red
quartz, or beryllite).
As it appeared as if we should be detained here, Brother
Kmoch had made a fire, and was leisurely cooking a savoury
mess of birds for breakfast, when Jonathan returned from
the hills, with intelligence that the wind was abating in
violence, and he therefore would proceed. The tent was
struck, and all hurried on board : yet we had long to combat
both an unfavourable wind and a strong current, which
compelled us to double the East point of the island, and
seek shelter among some small islands, steering for Niakungu
point. From hence we got the first sight of Tikkerarsuk,
(the Esquimaux name for a low point stretching from the
continent into the sea), of the island Aulatzevik, and tho
high promontory of Kakkeviak. The whole country to

38
the west of Niakungu is called Seriiarutsit. It fell calm
as we doubled the point, and we took to our oars, and came
to an anchor in an open bay, south of Tikkerarsuk.
25th. At 6 P. M. we got under weigh with a fine S. E.
wind, and made for the island of Aulatzevik, which is about
fiie same size as an island of the same name, near Kig-
lapeyd. The passage between the island and the main is
too shallow for an European boat like ours. The wind
rising we sailed towards Kakkeviak at a great rate. To the
right lay a chain of small islands called by the Esquimaux
Pikkiulits, (the habitation of young eider-ducks). Having
nearly doubled Kakkeviak cape, we perceived two tents on
shore, which occasioned loud rejoicings on board. They
belonged to Kumiganna of Saeglek, with his party, who
being bound to Killinek, had promised to accompany us
thither. The wind was very high, and the Cape encircled
with numerous visible and invisible rocks, but there was a
clear passage to the shore, keeping outside of the breakers.
But whether from the violence of the wind, or from the
eagerness with which our trusty captain wished soon to join
his countrymen, he steered right through the midst of them,
when suddenly the boat struck with great violence upon a
sunken rock. The shock was so great, that all on board
were thrown down, and eveiy thing tumbled about. Poor
Agnes, Jonas's wife, got a severe wound in her head. We
immediately took in all our sails, and after hard labour, suc
ceeded in pushing the boat off the rock. On examination
we found that all was safe, and thanked God, with hearts
filled with humble acknowledgments of His mercy, for
preserving us from danger and death. The boat had struck"
in such a manner, that the keel, which was new and strong,
being constructed of one solid piece of timber, sustained the
. whole shock. Had she taken the rock with her bottom, she
would most likely have bilged, or upset, and it is a great
question, whether our lives, but particularly the lives of the

39
Httle children, could have been saved, the sea running very
high. The skin-boat was thrown right over the rocks on
shore, by the violence of the surf.
Kumiganna soon came off in his kayak, and advised us to
steer for the land right before us, where he thought vve
should find Uttakiyok ; nor was there any safe anchorage in
this place. We therefore took a young Esquimaux on board
as pilot, and steered between the main land and the islands,
for Oppernavik, twenty English miles off. Having left the
skin-boat to follow Us, we cut swiftly through the water,
and soon reached the place of our destination.

CHAPTER VII.
Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His pene->
verance in waiting for the arrival of the Missionaries.
Islands and bays between Kakkeviak and Killinek. Dan
ger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel supplied by
robbing old graves.
WHEN we arrived at Oppernavik, we found Uttakiyok,
with his two wives and youngest" brother, waiting to receive
us. He and his family are from the Ungava bay, and had
been upon the watch in this plaee during the whole spring.
They welcomed us with shouts of joy, and firing of their
pieces, and we had indeed the greatest reason to thank
God, that he had sent us this man, to conduct us oh our
way to an unknown country, and through unfrequented
seas. For this service Uttakiyok was eminently qualified, and
without such a steady, faithful guide, we should have beeri'
wandering in the most painful and dangerous uncer
tainty in the desert regions to the West of Cape Ohud-'

40
leigh, where, on a coast of 100 miles in length, we did no*
meet with a single inhabitant. He was so anxiously intent
upon meeting us, that he had erected signals on all the
heights surrounding his tent, to prevent our missing, him.
Among his countiymen he is much respected, on account of
his superior sense, and skill in all Esquimaux arts, and pos
sesses great influence among them.
Uttakiyok was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in
the year 1800, we received the first distinct information
^respecting the Ungava country and its inhabitants, by which
the desire, excited both at home and here in Labrador, to
visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly strengthened, and
led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps to accom
plish this object, (See page 3).
Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak,
from Killinek, where he then dwelt, and intended to return,
in the summer following, to Ungava, his native country, but
an illness, which befel his son, detained him. This intelli-
gence was received at Okkak during last winter, when we
sent him word, that as we purposed paying his countrymen
a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct
us through the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing
further concerning him, we remained in uncertainty respect
ing his intentions. We were the more thankful to God,
who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully to accept
qf the commission, and wait to be our guide, an office which
he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested
kindness, which claims our admiration and gratitude.
While we were here waiting for a favourable oppor
tunity to pass the straits, which were yet filled with ice,
he behaved in the kindest manner to us and our Esqui
maux. Though a heathen, he , regularly attended our
morning and evening worship, and declared to Jonathan,
that he also intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we
would form a settlement in his country, would come and

41
live with us, and was sure, that many of his countrymen
Would do the same.
Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered
with seal's flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten
bags of blubber were standing ready for sale; and with a
view to shew him our good-will, Brother Kohlmeister bar
tered with him for three of them, which were hid under
the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, on our
return. 26th. We put up our three tents ; Uttakiyok's people had
three more. Wind N. W. We were now near the entrance
into the Ikkerasak, (or straits), which separate the island of
Killinek and two or three other large islands from the conti
nent. They stretch to the N . to the distance of about 1 2 or 1 5
English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. To
the N. W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by
the Esquimaux Tutsaets, and N. N. E. of these, the great
island Resolution, called Igloarsuk, on which, as we were
informed, many Esquimaux reside. The Tutsaets were
discernible from this place, but not the latter, wliich however,
as the Esquimaux say, may be seen from the Tutsaets.
We guessed at its situation, from the clouds hanging over
it in the North quarter. The weather was, as might he ex
pected on the northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and
cold, and our small stove, which we brought into the tent„
was of great use to us during our stay in this place.
27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceed
ing. We caught some Pitsiolaks, (awks), and a brace of
young puffins, which, with the addition of some salt meat,
made excellent broth.
28th, The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing
hard at N. W. Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok's tent,
and sitting down with him at the point of Oppernavik, and
looking down the coast as far as Kakkeviak, got him to

42
name all the bays, points, and islands, from Kakkeviak
to Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The dis
tance between the two points or headlands may be
guessed at, by the time of sailing with a strong leading
wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up from
Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, Kikkertorsoak, Imi-
lialuk, rather less in view, and Nessetservik. Having passed
these, there follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very
high, stretching towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakke
viak lies Uglek; then a bay, Nulluk, and farther to the left
another bay, Tellek, (right arm). The countiy along these
bays is called Attanarsuk. Now follow the bay Ikkorliar-
suk, the lower point of Tikkerarsuk, the bay Amiivagtok,
and Kakkeviak^ a high promontory, (not to be confounded
with the other Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock.
This promontory is only about four miles from Oppernavik
to the S. E.) Then follow two small bays, Anniovariktok
and Sangmiyok, then the promontory Ukkuliakartok,
(meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay Tun-
nusuksoak. Next, the last point on the continent, forming
the south entrance to the Ikkerasak. The abovementioned
chain of barren islands is called by the Esquimaux Navia-
rutsit, and besides them some low rocks, Nuvurutsit. The
island of Killinek is about nine miles long, and five broad,
high, and forming the north side of the straits. Another
Ikkerasak, (or strait), divides it from an island called Kikker
torsoak, (a common name for an island), of considerable
height, but not so long as Killinek : one, or perhaps more
islands follow, narrowing E. and W. and forming Cape
Chudleigh. To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea.
We went to the nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeis*
ter took an observation, and found our situation to be
60° 16'.
30th. It blew a hard gale from the N. E., rained hard, and

43
as the ice now began to enter our harbour, we were busily
engaged in keeping it off the boat.
3 1st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from
ice, we resolved to attempt to pass them, and set sail. But
it soon became evident, that there was still plenty of ice in
the neighbourhood, and the wind setting to the N. E. with
fogs, we were obliged to return. Suspecting also that the
easterly wind would again drive the ice into our former
harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pass, between
that and a small island called Ammitok, where we anchored
under shelter of the island. The sequel proved, that we
had for once acted with sound judgment and foresight, for
our former anchoring-ground was soon filled with ice; and
during the night large flakes entered even into our present
place of refuge.
August 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely
surrounded by floating ice, a strong N. W. wind driving the
large shoals from the W. side of the little pass in which we
lay, with much force towards us, insomuch that our boat
was in the greatest danger of being crushed to pieces by
them. We were all day long hard at work with poles, boat-
hooks, and hatchets, to ward off the larger shoals, but when
the tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of
which we had three out, closing in also on all sides of the
boat, so that we were every moment in fearful expectation
of her being carried away, and our anchors lost, which
would have reduced us to the most distressing situation.
Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous
situation, and not to suffer us to perish here, but by His
almighty aid, to save us and our boat. With great and un
remitting exertions we had laboured all day, from the
morning early, till seven in the evening, when the Lord
heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in
working the boat out of the ice, the rising of the tide having
opened a passage through it, just as we were almost ex-

44
hausted with fatigue. It also became quite calm, and we
felt as ifwe had passed from death to life.
Having anchored again on the opposite side of the little
pass or strait, we* gave thanks to God, for the deliverance
we had experienced through His mercy, in which our Es
quimaux, young and old, most fervently joined.
During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire
wood was expended, and we were obliged to purchase of
our companions, what they had to spare. We likewise
robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden utensils,
which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to
lay beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles,
&c. and thus obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery.
Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in La
brador, but wastes away gradually; and after forty or more
years, the wood found at the graves is still fit for use.

CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killi
nek. Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction.
Meeting ivith Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who
had never seen an European. Anchor at Omanelc. High
tides. Drift-wood. Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant
view of Akpatok.
AUGUST 2d., — Having made all needful preparations for
the voyage, a gentle but favourable wind, and occasional
rowing, brought us, about nine in the morning, to the
entrance of the much dreaded Ikkerasak. The weather was
pleasant and warm, not a flake of ice was to be seen, and all
our fear and anxiety had subsided. Our minds were attuned
to praise and thanksgiving for the providential preservation

45
we had experienced yesterday. We performed our morning
devotions on deck, and all joined in a joyful hallelujah to
God our Saviour, which was sweetly repeated by echoes
among the mountains and precipices on either side. The
scripture-text appointed in theChurch of the United Brethren
for this day being read, it seemed as if addressed particularly
to us, separated as we felt ourselves, in these lonely regions,
from the rest of the inhabitants of the earth : " See now that
" I, even I, am He, and there is no. God ivith me: I kill, and
" 1 ma/ce alive; 1 wound, and 1 heal." Deut. 32, 39. We
rejoiced, that we were in the hands of a gracious and merciful
God and Father, who would not forsake us,.but deal with us
according to his wonted mercy and favour.
The Ikkerasak, (or strait), is about ten miles in length; the
land on each side high and rocky, and in some places preci
pitous, but there appeared no rocks in the strait itself. The
water is deep and clear. Its mouth is wide, and soon after
entering, a bay opens to the left, which by an inlet only just
wide enough to admit a boat, communicates with a lagoon of
considerable magnitude, in which lies an island on its western
bank. Beyond this bay, the passage narrows and conse
quently the stream, always setting from N. to S. grows more
Tapid. Here the mountains on both sides rise to a great
height. Having proceeded for two miles in a narrow channel,
the strait opens again, but afterwards contracts to about 1000
yards across; immediately beyond which, the left coast turns
to the south. As the tide ebbs regularly with the current
from N. to S. along the whole coast of Labrador, the current
through the strait is most violent during its fall, and less,
when resisted by its influx on rising.
We were taught to expect much danger in passing certain
eddies or whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits, and
were therefore continually upon the look-out for them.
When we passed the first narrow channel, at 12 P. M. it
being low water, no whirlpool was perceptible. Having

46
sailed on for little more than half an hour, with wind and
tide in our favour, we reached the second. Here, indeed,
we discovered a whirlpool, but of no great magnitude at this
state of the tide. Near the north-shore the water was, in
deed, whirled round in the manner of a boiling cauldron of
4en or twelve feet diameter, with considerable noise and
•much foam; but we passed without the smallest inconveni
ence, within thirty or forty feet of the outer circle. Our
skin-boat, however, which we had in tow, with a man in it,
was seize/i by the vortex, and received a rapid twist; but as
the towing-rope did not break, she was immediately rescued
from danger by the swiftness of our course, and the affair
afforded us more diversion than anxiety. The motion of
the water in these eddies is so great, that they never freeze
in the severest winter. The ice being drawn towards them
with great force, the largest shoals are earned under water,
and thrown up again, broken into numerous fragments. The
Ikkerasak is at that season utterly impassable for boats.
The Killinek people inhabit an island to the right, after leav
ing the strait.
"When we quitted the Ikkerasak, and entered the ocean on
the western side of Cape Chudleigh, it seemed as if we were
transported to a new world. Hitherto the coast to our left
had always taken a northerly direction. It now turned to
the S. S. W. and is low, with gently sloping hills, the sea
being full of small islands, abounding in sea-fowl.
To the N. and N. W. we saw the open sea in Hudson's
Straits, which, compared to the turbulent Atlantic, seemed
calm and peaceful. We sailed briskly amidst the islands,
and overtook the inhabitants of Saeglek, whom we had seen
at Kakkeviak, where they had got the start of us. The wind
being favourable, we did not hail them, but kept on our
course. We now saw with pleasure the Ungava countiy to
the South before us, but had first to pass the low point of
Uivarsuk, the bay of Arvavih, in which the people from

47
Saeglek had their summer stations, and the mountain Oma
nek, of moderate height, and surrounded by many sinall
islets, called by the Esquimaux Erngayinget, (bowels). We
now discovered three skin-boats full of people standing
towards us from the shore. They were inhabitants of Un
gava, and welcomed our approach with loud shouts of joy'
and firing their pieces, which was answered by our party.
They followed us to Omanek, a round island rising like a
loaf among the rest, where they pitched their tents on
shore. Some of them had formerly dwelt in different places north
of Okkak, and were known to the Missionaries* in former
times, the rest were perfect strangers. They declared their
intention of coming over to the North of Okkak, to remain
some time in that country, for the sake of trade. It has
been mentioned, that some of the Ungava people have come
to Okkak, and carry on a trade between their countrymen
and that place. They are a kind of middle men, bring fox
and bear-skins, and exchange them for European goods.
These they carry back, and sell at a very advanced price in
the Ungava country. They spend two years on such a trad
ing voyage.
Brother Kohlmeister visited the people in their tents.
They were about fifty in number, men, women, and chil
dren. He informed them, that nothing could induce the,
Missionaries to come into this country, but love to the poor
heathen, and an ardent desire to make them acquainted with
their Creator and Redeemer, that through Him they might
attain* to happiness in time and eternity. Some seemed to
listen with great attention, but the greater part understood
nothing of what was said. This, of course, did not surprise us,
as most of them were quite ignorant heathen, who had never
before seen anEuropean. They,however,raised a shout of joy,
when we informed them, that we would come and visit them
in their own country. Many were not satisfied with view-

48
ing us on every side with marks of great astonishment, but
came close up to us, and pawed us all over. At taking leave
we presented them with a few trifles, which excited among
them the greatest pleasure and thankfulness.
We recommend these heathen to the mercy of God, and
pray, that the day may soon dawn, when the light of the sav
ing gospel of Jesus may shine into their hearts.
3d. Several of them came on board, once more to see us,
and, in their way, to express their regard and gratitude.
"They also got some useful articles from our people, in ex
change for their goods. We now set sail, passed a point
called Oglarvik, and the bay Takpangayok, and arrived at
Tuktusiovik, (a place where reindeer are seen), where we
cast anchor for the night. Already at Omanek we had dis
covered a great difference between the rise and fall of the
tides there and about Killinek. In the latter place it rose to
four fathoms, but here still higher. The country looked
pleasant, with many berry-bearing plants and bushes. There
was, likewise, plenty of drift-wood all along the coast; not
the large Greenland timber, but small trees and roots, evi
dently carried out of the great rivers of the Ungava by the
ice. We had, of course, fire-wood enough, without robbing
the graves of their superstitious furniture. Our Esquimaux
pitched their tent on shore, and we supped with them on a
mess of seal's flesh and cider-ducks. The musquitoes were
extremely troublesome during our repast, after which we re
tired to sleep on board the boat.
4th. Wind fair. We passed numerous low rocks ; a point,
by name unknown to Uttakiyok; the bay Ikpigitok, two
miles broad, and the cape called Uibvaksoak, the northern
boundary of the great bay or gulf of Abloriak. This cape
is surrounded by many bare and sunken rocks, which caused
us to stand out pretty far to the westward. While we were
off the point, we descried, at a very great distance to the
N. W. a large island, called by the Esquimaux Akpatok.

49
They say, that it encloses the whole bay or gulf towards the
sea, and consists of high land : also, that it is connected with
the western continent at low water by an isthmus. The
north coast of this island appears to be the line laid down in
maps and charts as the coast of America, to the south of
Hudson's Straits. But the district of Ungava is separated
from the island by a large inland bay, extending southward
to the 58° N. L. North of Akpatok, the Esquimaux speak
of islands well peopled by their countrymen, who have never
seen Europeans.
Having safely doubled the point or cape of Uibvaksoak,
we came to an anchor near a small island to the south,
where we spent the night.
5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A. M,
the wind turned against us, and we ran into a small bay,
about five miles from our former anchoring-place. Here we
found the Andromeda tetragona growing in tolerable quan
tity, on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water. The face of
the country was unpleasant, with many steep rocks. On a
precipice behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey.
The naked rocks had singular shapes, and presented to the
imagination the ruins of a destroyed town. In the vallies we
saw many small lagoons, but little grass, and the excrements
of geese. It was about full moon, and the tide rising here
five or six fathom, occasipned the most strange alterations
in the prospect towards the sea, which, being smooth and
clear of rocks at high water,_exhibited, after its fall, an archi
pelago of rugged islands and black flats.

50

CHAPTER IX.
Chain of black mountains. The Dragon's dwelling. Changes
occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attend
ing them. Uttakiyok's superstitious customs. Singular
effect of the tide in the bay of litimnekoktok. Arrive at
Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation. Trans
actions there.
AUGUST 6th  We crossed the bay Abloriak, which is
large and wide, with many small islands and rocks to
wards the sea, and high black mountains inland, called
Torngaets. Uttakiyok, who was always very eager to make
us attentive to every object and its name, shewed us here
a wide and deep cavern, in shape like the gable end of an
house, situated at the top of a precipice, in a black moun
tain, of a very horrid and dark appearance. This, he in
formed us, was the dwelling-place of Torngak, the evil spi
rit. The scenery was, indeed, extremely wild and terrible,
and the beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at
low water gave io the whole country a most singularly
gloomy character. Nor is this change, occasioned by the
tide in the state of the sea, merely in appearance terrific, it
is so in reality : for we never durst cast anchor in less thari
eight or nine fathoms water, lest at ebb-tide we should find
ourselves aground, or even high and dry.
The cavern just spoken of, connected with the chain of
black mountains in which it is situated, we called the Dra
gon's dwelling, but had no time to examine the place,
though it did not appear inaccessible. Whether Uttakiyok
would have ventured to accompany us into it, is another
question, for he was, with all his good sense, strongly at
tached to the superstitious notions and ceremonies of his

51
countiymen. Thus, on passing dangerous places he always
hung the claw of a raven to his breast, and carried the blown
paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole fixed to one side of his
boat. The latter is a common practice among the northern
Esquimaux, and probably considered by them all as a very
efficient charm.
We passed Sioralik, and many small and flat rocky is
lands: the bay Issorkitok, (a grassy place), a nameless
headland; and the larger bay Nappartolik, (a woody coun
try). The wood is said to commence at the interior point
of this bay, and to continue throughout the whole of the
Ungava country, which, as we afterwards discovered, ex
tends to a considerable distance to the southward. Then
follows Tunnuyalik, a point, or perhaps an island, on which
lies a huge white stone, twenty or thirty feet high, by which
it is distinguished from other similar headlands. A chain of
low, flat islands, runs out into the sea to a considerable dis
tance, and appearing at a distance as continued land, they are
mistaken for a cape. Farther on is the bay Ittimnekoktok,
where it grew dark before we found a suitable anchorage.
The wind was high, and some of our company went on
shore in the skin-boat, in order to pitch their tent, and
spend the night.
7th. On rising, to our great surprise, we found ourselves
left by the tide in a shallow pool of water, surrounded by
rocky hills ; nor could we at all discover the situation of our
skin-boat, till after the water had begun to rise, and raised
us above the banks of Our wateiy dungeon, when, with
great astonishment, not having been able to find it on the
surface of the sea, and accidentally directing our eyes up
wards, we saw it perched upon the top of a considerable
eminence, and apparently on shore. We then landed, and
ascending a rising ground, beheld with some terror, the
wonderful changes occasioned by the tides. Our course-
was visible to the extent of two or three English mpes, but

52
the sea had left it, and We were Obliged to remain in this
dlshial place, till about noon, before the Water had risen
sufficiently to carry us out. We now "began to entertain
fears, lest We might not always be able to find proper har
bours, so as to avoid being left high and dry at low Water;
for having anchored in nine fathoms last night, we Were
left in one and a half this morning. Uttakiyok and Thuk-
kekina were With us on shore. The eminence on Which
we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants,
and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares.
Near the summit was a spot, covered with red sand, which
stained one's fingers, and among it were fragments of a
substance resembling cast iron. We seemed here to stand
on a peninsula connected by an isthmus with another island,
or with the continent; but probably at high water it may
be a separate island.
As soon as the tide would permit, we set out, and pro
ceeded towards a cape called Kattaktok, surrounded by
small islands. Between the cape and our anchoring place,
we passed, on the left, the following objects ; Keglo, abroad
deep bay ; Katarusialik, a headland, probably of the conti
nent; Ukkdsiksalik, (meaning a place where soap stone is
found), a peninsula; and to the right of the latter place, an
island, Kikkertarsodk, which lies at the entrance Of the
Great Bay, Or estuary of the great river KangertlualukSoak.
We sailed with a strong, but favourable wind, with some
rain, between the peninsula and the island ; and not trusting
to the depth of the water at ebb-tide, sent two kayaks for
ward to sound. They soon brought us into a good harbour,
where we cast anchor about half past five P. M.
Kangertlualuksoak river was the spot to which we had
principally directed our views. It lies about 140 miles
S. S. W. of Cape Chudleigh. By an observation at its
mouth its latitude appeared to be 58° 57'. But we had no
means of finding the longitude. At its entrance the bay

53
runs rather S> S. E. for about ten or twelve English miles,
then turns due S. E. for six or eight more, and after that
S. W. At the second turn towards the S. E, there is the
greatest quantity of wood, chiefly Larch, but of moderate
size. We particularly noticed a fine slope facing the south,
which appeared the most pleasant part of the bay, to which
a vessel might approach and anchor with convenience, there
being from 24 to 30 fathoms water. We also imagined that
the entrance from the sea would be free from obstructions,
as no islands are seen in that direction. Uttakiyok likewise
declared, that there was no bar or sunken rocks near the
mouth of the bay.
We found no inhabitants on our arrival, but on the 13 th,
a Whole company of people from Killinek joined us.
Out* transactions in the bay of Kangertlualuksouk, from
the 7th, are here noticed more in detail.
August 8th. We landed, and went in search of our people,
who had spent the night in tents on shore. Okkiksuk ac
companied us to the top of a hill, overlooking the bay Ittim-
nekoktok, where we had anchored the day before. We saw
it quite dry, and full of large fragments of rock. Turning
towards the land, we discovered some wood at a distance*
The weather being calm and warm, the musquitoes were
excessively troublesome. The vallies here are overgrown
with verdure, and the hills pretty well clothed with moss,
and berry -bearing plants ; but we could not continue our
Walk, on account of the musquitoes, which persecuted us
unmercifully, and drove us back to our tents. All our
men were out, two on that side on which we had landed,
and the others having crossed the bay in their kayaks, were
employed in hunting reindeer. Jonathan only remained at
home. In the afternoon he accompanied us in the small
boat, to a hill, situated to the South of our station, at about
two miles distant, where we landed, and went up the coun
try, but found nothing much worth notice. We observed.

54
that round the headland near us, the water was very rough,
with eddies and whirlpools, occasioned by the rising of the
high tides. On returning to our little boat, we found it
agroundk We therefore gathered some drift-wood, of which
there was plenty, and made a good fire, at which we sat
down and regaled ourselves with some biscuit and beer..
Having pushed the boat into the water, we set out, but
owing to the violence of the current had hard work to get
to the great boat, and did not arrive till dark. Jonas saluted
us from on board, by firing off his piece in token of success,
and we found that he had got two, and his companion three
reindeer, and a small black bear. The carcases were left at
the tents, where part was cooked, and a mess brought to us
on board, which proved an agreeable repast after our fatigue.
Jonas and his family spent the night on board, the rest of
the Esquimaux in their tents on shore.
9th. Jonas having found a good harbour on the other side
of the bay, and the current being here veiy strong, we sailed
across and anchored there. The strand was even, and
full of smooth rocks, above high water mark. The bottom
of the bay is mud, and a slimy substance, covering all the
stones and pebbles, left by the tide, makes walking very
troublesome. The land is not high, but pleasant, covered with moss,
with many small ponds, and marks of being frequented by
reindeer. 10th. We went farther up the bay in the skin-boat, with
Jonathan, Uttakiyok, Thukkekina, Paul, David, and Ok-
kiksuk. At a short distance from the place where we had
landed yesterday, we came to a fine green terrace, over
grown with low shrubs and bushes, which delighted us
much. From hence, a woody valley, extending to the left,
seemed to invite us to take that course into the country,
but we would not waste our time by examining it. On
sailing farther up the bay, and turning round the above

55
mentioned terrace, we came to a small inlet, dry at low
water, on the left shore. Its banks were pleasantly covered
with low bushes, interspersed with higher trees, and the
place seemed to us very suitable for a settlement. From
hence we perceived, at a short distance, on the opposite
coast, a cape or headland, over which the tops of trees made
their appearance. We sailed towards it, and found behind
it a tract covered with low wood, chiefly larch and pine : on
landing we saw the tracks of rein-deer, which had just left
the spot. Jonathan, in an instant, ran like a young man for
his gun, and with it into the wood. We followed him
for two or three miles, but saw nothing but the track of the
deer. The country inland seems in general level, with
some low hills, and many ponds ; without wood, but over
grown with rein-deer moss. No suceess attended our
huntsman, and in the evening we met again in the boat.
Brother Kmoch had kept up with Jonathan, and saw,
among the bushes, the same kind of large partridge, or
American wild pheasant, which is found about Okkak, but
seems only to live in woods. It was a hen, with a covey of
young birds, one of which which he caught, examined, and
let go again, nor would he take or shoot the hen, out of
compassion to the young brood.
Brother Kohlmeister had meanwhile gone farther up the
bay, and thought he had discovered the entrance of the river,
but no fresh water appearing, we must still have been a
great way off its influx into the bay.
We now lighted a fire, boiled coffee, and cooked a dish of
reindeer venison. The weather was warm, and the night
fine and clear, but frosty. Having brought our travelling-
beds with us on shore, (see page 34), we crept into them,
and spent the night at the fire-side, the Esquimaux lying
down anywhere about us. In the morning, the whole
country was covered with hoar-frost, and the straw we had
Jain upon was frozen fast to the ground.

56

CHAPTER X.
Further transactions in Kangertlttaluksoak Bay. The E~s-
quimaux women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremonif
of taking possession of this new-explort\d country, as be
longing to the King qf England, and of naming the river
George river. Leave the bay and proceed to Arvarvik.
Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the shallotos. Storm
at Kernertut.
AUGUST 11th  We rose by break of day, and after
breakfast, sailed across the bay, and landed at the second
.small inlet, with an intention of penetrating into the coun
try, but the returning warmth of the weather by day, and
the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend with, rendered
us unable to execute our purpose.
The Missionaries and Jonathan ascended a hill, from
which a great tract of country might be overlooked. It
¦was full of wood, as far as the eye could reach. Near the
inlet some places seemed boggy, or covered with grass.
From hence a valley stretched into the country, with a
small lake in it, about two or three miles distant. Berries
were every where in abun4ance. The summits of the hills
had no wood upon them, but much reindeer-moss.
On our return, being about a mile from our landing-
place, we saw pur skin-boat in the middle of the bay, and
fired a gun as a signal for it to come to us. The Esquimaux
had five rein-deer in the boat, which Uttakiyok had per
ceived on the opposite bank. He had followed them in his
kayak, driven them into the water, and killed them there.
When hard pressed, reindeer soon take to the water, an<l
swim so well, that a four-oared boat can scarcely come up

57
With them, but an Esquimaux, in his kayak will overtake
them. They therefore, if possible, drive them into the
water, being then sure of their game.
After dining on part of the venison, we returned to the
great boat. On the passage, we thought we perceived at a
considerable distance a black bear, and Uttakiyok, elated with
his recent success, hoped to gain new laurels. He entered
His kayak and proceeded as cautiously as possible along the
shore, towards the spot, landed, climbed the hill, so as not to
be observed, but when he had got just within gun-shot,
perceived, that his bear Was a black stone. This adventure
furnished the company with merriment for the remainder of
the voyage to the boat, which We reached about six P. M.
When we got ofi board the boat, we found that all the
women had taken refuge in it, thinking that they had seen
Indians on shore. The men therefore immediately landed,
to take care of the forsaken tents. This was no doubt a
felse alarm, for we never discovered any traces of them
during our stay. To the south of Hopedale the Indians and
Esquimaux sometimes meet, but as the Hopedale Esqui
maux seek to cultivate their friendship, quarrels and blood
shed seldom occur. In Ungava, however^ though they
often exchange tokens of friendship, they are apt to give
way to their national jealousies; and provocations being
aggravated,! their meetings now and then terminate in
murder. The Esquimaux are much afraid of the Indians,
who are a more nimble and active race.
12th. Having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood,
and gathered all the information concerning it, which our
means would permit, and likewise fixed upon the green
Slope or terrace above described, as the most suitable plao©
for a settlement, on account of the abundance of wood in its
neighbourhood, we made preparations to proceed. Uttaki->
yok, who had spent more than one white* in the Ungava
countiy, assured us, that there was here an ample supply of
r

58
provisions, both in summer and winter, which Jonathan also
credited, from his own observation. The former likewise
expressed himself convinced, that if we would form a settle
ment here, many Esquimaux would come to us from all
parts. We ourselves were satisfied that Europeans might
find the means of existence in this place, as it was accessible
for ships, and had wood and water in plenty. As for Es
quimaux, there appeared no want of those things upon
which they live, the sea abounding with whitefish, seals,
sea fowl, &c. and the land with reindeer, hares, bears, and
other animals. The people from Killinek declared their
intention of removing hither, if we would come and dwell
among them, and are even now in the habit of visiting this
place every summer. Our own company even expressed a
wish to spend the winter here.
This being the day before our departure, we erepted, on
two opposite hills, at the entrance of the bay, high marks of
stones, and ou the declivity of a hill to the right, a board,
into which we had Cut an inscription, thus 

In front,

GeorgiusIII. Rex.
Societas
Unitatis Fratrum.

At the back.

B. K.

G. K.

Aug. 7,

1811.

T

Benjaniih Kohlmeister, ¦
George Kmoch,
Aug. 7, 181.1.
'the day of onr arrival.

We raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity, in
presence of Uttakiyok and his family, as representatives pf
the people of Ungava, and of our own company, and hoisted
the British flag alongside of it, while another was displayed
at the same time in the boat. We explained the cause of
this ceremony to all present, to the following effect 

59
ft That we, on this day, raised this sign, in the name of
" our king, George III. the great monarch of all these ter-
" ritories, in testimony of our having explored it, and made
" choice of it, in case we or our Brethren should think
" proper to settle here. To which we called upon all pre-
" sent to bear witness." We then proclaimed the name of
the Kangertlualuksoak to be henceforth George River, upon
Which every man fired his piece three times, the vollies being
answered from the boat.
The texts of scripture app'ointed for this day were then
read, and we remarked how encouraging they were, as
relating to the purpose, for which we visited these unknown
regions :
From the rising qf the sun, even to the going down qf the
same, my name shall be great among the Gentiles, saith the
Lord of Hosts! Mai. 11, 1.
At the name of Jesus every knee shall bow, of things in
heaven, and things in earth, and things under the earth; and
every tongue shall confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the
glory of God the Father! Philippians, 2, 10, 11.
After the ceremony was over, we distributed some pease,
bread, and beer ainong the Esquimax, which enabled them
to make a splendid feast, and the day was spent in the most
agreeable manner.
13th. We set sail, about six A. M. with a gentle breeze,
which however soon fell away entirely, and obliged us to
take to our oars. Near the mouth of the bay, we met several
kayaks, coming towards us. They were Esquimaux from
Killinek, who expressed regret at not having sooner heard
of our being here : some came on board, and traded with
our people. We presented them with a little tobacco, for
which they were very thankful.
In order to get well out of the bay, we first steered North,
and then passed to the S. W. between a peninsula Nauyat,
lying to the left of the entrance, and seven small islands and

60
rpckson the right, towards the island of Arvarvik, about
six or seven miles distant, where we were obliged, to past
anchor in an exposed situation, the wind having become
contrary. There was a strong swell during the night, which
violently agitated our boat. • -
Arvarvik is about five miles in circumference. It is
covered with the bones of whales, which the Esquimaux
catch here in their kayaks. The coast is surrounded by a
great number of small low islands, with deep pools between
them. Into these the whales stray at high water, and at the
ebbing of the tide, are prevented finding their way bapk
again. The Esquimaux then pursue and kill them with
harpoons. In the island are ponds of fresh water, and some
low hills, overgrown with moss. A great number of sea-
fowl, and also reindeer, are found upon it.
On the shore we found great quantities of a red jaspp*-*, or
iron-stone, the same which occurs throughout the coast,
from Killinek to South river, not as a stratum, but in
lumps, and generally below high water mark.
The Esquimaux who landed on the continent reported,
that about two miles inland, there was much low wood.
14th. We left our unpleasant anchorage, and returned tp
a place where the skin-boat had lain during the night, as
it was sheltered from the South wind, which had risen
considerably. 15th. Our people went out to hunt reindeer, and re
turned in the evening with two. The wind shifted to the
west, and blew with violence. We spent again an uneasy
night. 16 th. 'Brother Kmoch went on shore and returned with a
parcel of stones for examination. We now began to feel
some anxiety on account of the great loss of time we were
suffering here by contrary winds.
17th, About -eight o'clock we set sail, the wind having
come round to the S, E. with a cloudy sky. We passed

61
several nameless islands, at the distance of about a mile from
the shore. In the afternoon, it began to rain hard, and after
having sailed about twelve miles, we cast anchor near a long
point of land, called Kernertut, by which we were sheltered
from the wind, which had again turned to the South-west.
The sky liowever was clear, and the beginning of the night
pleasant, with beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis>
Most of our people, and with them Uttakiyok, had gone in
the skin-boat higher up the bay, but it was too shallow to
admit of our following them. Only Jonas and his children,
and the two boys Okkiksuk and Mammak, were left with
us on board.
During the night the wind veered round to the N. Ei
and blew a gale, which increased in violence till day-break.
18th. The sea now rose to a tremendous height, such as
we had never before experienced, and by the change of
wind, we were exposed to the whole of its fury. The rain
fell in torrents. We lay at three anchors, and the boat was
tossed about terribly, the sea frequently breaking quite over
her, insomuch that we expected every moment to be swal
lowed up in the abyss. With much difficulty we succeeded
in lowering our after-mast. Jonathan and the rest of our
company on shore, were obliged to be passive spectators of
the dreadful scene, waiting the event in silent anguish.
They quitted their tents, and came forward to some emi
nences near the beach, where, by lifting up their hands, and
other gestures, they expressed terror, bordering on despair.
Frequently the boat was hid from their view by the waves,
which ran mountains high. They expected every moment
that we should break loose from our anchors, and the boat
be driven on the rocks. The length of our cables was here of
the greatest advantage to us. About noon, the rope by which
the small boat was fastened, broke. She was immediately
carried up the bay, and thrown, by the violence of the surf,
on the top of a rock, where she stuck fast, keel upwards. It

62
was impossible to render us any assistance, till the tide
turned, when the raging of the sea, and the wind; began to
abate. As soon as it was practicable, Jonathan and the
other men came to us in the skin-boat. He seemed quite
overcome with joy, and, not able to utter a word, held out
his hand, and shed tears of gratitude that he met us again
alive, for he had given us up for lost.
We now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the
shore, landed, pitched our tent, and gave thanks to God for
the merciful deliverance we had just experienced. Indeed
all our people most fervently joined in praise to Him for the
preservation of our lives. A warm dinner was soon prepared,
by which we were much refreshed.
As soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it, our peo
ple went to the rock, on which the small boat lay, and got
her into the water. To our great surprize we found, that
she had received no material injury.

CHAPTER XL
Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on
the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations.
Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account
of Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Ar
rival in the river Koksoak.
JONATHAN and Jonas now became more and more an
xious about our situation. They represented to us, that, if
we attempted to proceed farther, we might probably be
compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the stormy
season was fast approaching. They added, that to them, it
would be of little consequence, but that they were concerned
on our account.

63
Though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend
to shake the confidence of our party, yet we felt no .small
degree of perplexity concerning present appearances. Du
ring the six days since we left George's River, we had made
little more than fourteen or fifteen miles, and were at least,
as far as we could judge, seventy or eighty from .-the river
Koksoak, which we had fixed upon as the final object of the
voyage, being the outermost western boundary of the Ungava
country. Insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present
themselves, owing partly to contrary winds and cold weather,
and partly to loss of time, for we had been already two
months on the voyage, and had not yet obtained our aim:
so that our return might be unseasonably late, if we pro
ceeded. We could not possibly make up our minds to
spend the winter here, as we had not a sufficient supply of
provisions, and knew what distress it would occasion to our
Brethren at Okkak. ,
We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our
path seemed enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that
" to the upright there ariseth a light in the darkness," (Ps.
112, 4) : that is, to them who fear and trust in the Lord, and
sincerely desire to know and do His will, He will reveal it.
InHis name we had entered upon this voyage, the only ulti
mate object of which was, the conversion of a benighted,
neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth.
We were, therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor
leave us in uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that
He, " whose eyes run to and fro throughout the ivhole
" earth, to shew Himself strong in the behalf of them ivhose
" heart is perfect towards Him," (2 Chron. 16, 9.) was,
even in this desolate region, present with us, and would
hear and answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of
scripture occurred to our minds on this occasion, filling us
with an extraordinary degree of faith and confidence in Him,

64
particularly such as, " He will be very gracious unto thee
" at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it, He will an-
" swer thee," Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21 }
Isa. 43} 2, *&c. The mercies, also, which we had already
experienced, excited within us a sense of the deepest grati
tude and most firm trust; and we therefore told our people,
that we indeed participated in their concern, would take
the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them
with our determination on the morrow.
19th. In the morning we met in our tent, where we were
safe from the intrusion of the Esquimaux', to confer together
upon this most important subject. We weighed all the cir
cumstances connected with it, maturely and impartially, as
in the presence ofGod, and, not being able to come to any
decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed
to hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our
case to Him, who has promised, that " if two of His people
" shall agree on earth, as touching any thing that they shall
'f ask, it shall be done for them," (Matth. 18, 19.) and,
kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers and sup
plications in this our distressed and embarrassing situation,
and to make known to us His will concerning our future
proceedings, whether we should persevere in fulfilling the
whole aim Of our voyage, or, prevented by circumstances,
give up a part, and return home from this place.
The peace ofGod which filled our hearts on this memora
ble occasion, and the strong conviction wrought in us both,
that we should persevere, in His name, to fulfil the whole
of our commission, relying without fear on His help and
preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe
in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to
His poor followers and disciples, will understand us, when
we declare, that we were assured, that it was the will ofGod
our Saviour, that we should not now return and leave our

05
work unfinished, but proceed to the end of our proposed
voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the con
viction of his heart, all fears and doubts vanished, and we
were filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obe
dience to it, in the strength of the Lord. O that all men
knew the comfort and happiness of a mind devoted unto, and
firmly trusting in God in all things !
When we made known our determination to Jonathan
and his son Jonas, and told them, that we had maturely con
sidered the subject committed by them to us, and that, in
answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us, that, not
having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed,
Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent
captain, Jonathan, without hesitation replied : " Yes, that
" is also my conviction ! We will go whither Jesus directs
" us. He will bring us safe to our journey's end, and
™ safe home again." We were, indeed, glad and thankful
that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but
yesterday seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolu
tion, for much depended upon him, and the rest followed
him without difficulty. Indeed they all submitted to our de
termination with a willing mind, and their expressions of
resignation affected us much.
During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when
Uttakiyok killed three reindeer, which occasioned great re
joicing, and helped to make our people forget the frightful
scenes of yesterday. The country is full of black-looking
rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in
plenty. The shore exhibited still many marks of the violence
of the storm.
20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N. E.
Our course lay S. W. across a broad bay, then, after doub
ling a point, across another bay of about the same breadth,
to an island Allukpaluk, which we passed on the right, and
K

66
On the left, another island, Nipkotok. At a considerable dis
tance a-head lay the islands Pitsiolak, opposite a headland
of the continent called Tuktutok.
The sky had been from the morning cloudy, the wind be
came unfavourable and violent, and about noon heavy rain
came on. Not being well able to proceed, on account of the
violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the west side of
Pitsiolak, about 2 P. M. but perceiving a thunder-storm
rising from the western horizon, with veiy black clOuds,
threatening to drive us on shore if we remained at this an
chorage, we weighed as quickly as possible, and endeavoured
to get to the other side of the island.
Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning,
and rain overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the
flashes without interval, and the lightning seemed to strike
into the water close to our boat, while the wind carried the
spray into the air like smoke. Providentially we had
doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and
got to an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm passed
by swiftly, it grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather
became uncommonly fine with us, though at a distance we
saw the black clouds, and heard the hollow murmuring of
the thunder for a long time.
We now expected to have a comfortable night's rest, but
it grew intensely cold, and again began to blow violently
from the west. The strong current and heavy swell brought
us into some danger, and the poor people, who were obliged
to remain on deck all night, suffered much from cold and
wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island
we had seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part be
ing covered with water.
2 1st. In the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying
upon a pretty high rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The
weather was calm, but the wind contrary. Our Esquimaux

67
made good use of this respite to refresh themselves after
the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a sound
nap. In the afternoon we landed. The island Pitsiolak, which
forms two at high water, is low and flat, overgrown with
Empetrum and Rubus Chamoemorus, (Akpik-berries) .
Quantities of driftwood float about the shores. The jasper
occurred here again. This island may be about four or five
miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands
to the north. By the help of our glasses we could perceive
woods on the continent, and the Esquimaux thought they
discovered the smoke of Indian fires. They are much afraid
of meeting these people. Bloody encounters occasionally
occur between them. The Indians come fiom the interior,
and from Hudson's Bay, and are frequently seen near tlie
two principal rivers, George river and South river, towards
which we were going; but we met with none. Brother
Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of them are said to
understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring
to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the
Esquimaux, by friendly conversation.
22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us.
Without being obliged to take that in tow, we might have
kept at a greater distance from the shore, which would have
enabled us to get on more rapidly, and with greater safety.
On shore we found a great quantity of cubical pyrites in a
grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral,
and have before now brought it to Okkak.
23d. We proceeded at* 6 A, M. and steered for the island
of Saeglorsoak. The islands called Nochar%utsit lay on our
left. They are a group of numerous small islands, many of
which are overflowed at high water, extending W. and E.
towards the entrance of South river. Between these islands
and Akpatok, the sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the
water of sufficient depth for any ship entering from Hudson's

Straits, and bound to the KoksOak, or South rivers but ft©
ship duifet, in our opmion, venture to approach the coast
of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles.
In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the Wind
unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among
the islands. We had left the skin-boat behind, with Thuk-
kekina, Uttakiyok's brother Annoray, and one of his wives,
to whom he had given his baggage in charge. The Esqui
maux wives ate very punctilious, the first always maintains
the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, -distributes
the provisions, and directs everything, as mistress of the
family. Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw
riiany, and fired at them, but got none. Whitefish were
likewise seen at a distance. Uttakiyok and David were out
in their kayaks, and joined us in the evening loaded with
geese. On the turn of the-tide we proceeded, and at ten P. M.
cast anchor among the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high
island, about three or four miles in circumference. All our
people remained on board during the night, which was calm
and pleasant.
24th. David roused us about five o'clock, by firing at a
seal, which he killed. The Women went on shore to cook
it with some geese. When they returned, we all breakfasted
on the contents of their pot.
The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage
their kitchen affairs. The meat is boiled with the blood in
it, and the addition of some water. When it is sufficiently
done, that is, according the UngaVftteustom, when half warm,
the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on-a piece
of stone, if on shore, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then
the person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with
great vociferation, that the men may come and sit down to
eat. Such exertion of voice, however, seems hardly neces-

69
sary, as the Esquimaux are very acute at hearing, when tiiey
are invited to dinner. When the men have done, the women
sit down, having talcen good care, beforehand, that their
share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit
men and women to sit down together at a meal.
It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux,
that several having had good success, one huntsman's-feast
is hardly over, before another proclaims the invitation to
his banquet. This is never suffered to pass unnoticed, while
the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus
they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to
breathe, and then lie down to sleep off the effects of their
gluttony. Indeed tlieir excessive voraciousness on such
occasions produces, especially after long fasting, all the
symptoms of drunkenness. They forget, under its sensual
influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to tlie
most disgusting abominations.
In the afternoon we steered W. by N. (wind N. E.), for
the cape of Kernerauyak, at the east side of tlie entrance of
the river Koksoak, (Sand river). Before we arrived at the
cape, we left some islands to the South, the largest of which
is again called Kikkertarsoak. Saeglorsoak, is a large flat
island, about eight or ten miles long, and its neighbourhood
very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The
continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians aie said
to be frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the
Koksoak is seven or eight English miles broad : its shores
steep, but the rocks in general low, and covered with moss.
The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there is water
enough for any large ship, though tlie tides prevent any near
approach to tlie land. At sun-set we came to an anchor at
the mouth of the river.

70

CHAPTER XII.
Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.
Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them.
Their joy and eagerness to have Missionaries resident
among them. Find a suitable situation for a settlement.
Description of the country.
AUGUST 25th. _Thi8 was the joyful day on -which at last
we saw our hopes realized, and the principal aim of our
journey obtained. The sun rose beautifully, and announced
a delightful day. We were obliged to wait till seven A. M.
for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the
river. The estuary of the Koksoak lies, according to
an observation taken, in 58° 36' N. latitude, nearly the
same as Okkak. To the west the countiy is called by
the Esquimaux Assokak, the coast turning again W. N. W,
This river, therefore, seems to be at the most southern point
of the coast, George's river entering the sea at 58° 52', con
sequently more North.
The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the
Thames at Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and
the whole river, with its various windings, much resembles
the Thames for twenty-four miles upwards. Its depth is
sufficient for a ship thus far. Its general direction is from
the South. We reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles
from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way.
Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came
to a small island, which we left on our right.
We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other1

71
aiticles lying on tlie beach, and Jonatlmn and Brother
Kmoch went in tlie small boat to discover tlie proprietors,
but found nobody there, to guard the goods.
A little farther on is a point of land running out into
nearly tlie middle of the stream. The current sets very
rapidly round it, so as to form a dangerous eddy. Om* boat
was seized, and twice turned quite round ; the small boat
was whirled about several times, as she pushed through iu
The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud
scream ; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we
afterwards saw kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety.
Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks
approaching. The people in them shouted aloud for joy,
exclaiming, Imiuit, Jmiuit ! Men, Men ! Some guns were
also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by some
fowling-pieces from the shore.
We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted
our colours, when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabi
tants. There was a general cry of KuiZ, Kuve, Kabhoiaet,
KaMunact! Europeans, Europeans! fiom tlie men in the
kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed their
pleasure, brandishing their pautiks, (oars), and shouting
continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women
on shore answered with loud acclamations.
About one P. M. we cast anchor close to tlieir habitations.
Fourteen families were here, among whom were some from
a distant district, called Eivcktok. These had pitched tlieir
tents farther up tlie river. Arnauyak was with them, a
man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had become acquaint
ed some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but
a tew days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George's
river. The children expressed their joy by running to and
fro on the strand, like wild creatures.
At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but
after accepting of some trifling- presents, they because quite

n
communicative, and gave us some of their toys in exchange j
then walking round us, surveyed us narrowly, as if we were
a new species of animals. Most of them had never before
seen an European. Uttakiyok's brother had joined them,
and already informed them of our arrival, without which
they would probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing
strangers, and hearing the report of fire-arms.
They now invited all our people to dine with them, and
having heard that Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste
the flesh of a whitefish, a kettle was immediately placed on
the fire, and a large piece put in to boil. Brother Kmoch
meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds, and reindeer-
flesh, more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was
preparing, Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of
the river, and across some hills. As the families belonging
to Eivektok had their summer dwelling in that neighbour
hood, the Esquimaux, on perceiving that he had walked in
that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people, seeing
him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at
him, dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed
him, and he returned before them. He found our people
very pleasantly conversing with the heathen concerning the
aim of our journey, and the way of salvation. Even Utta
kiyok was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the
cause of our living in Labrador : he exclaimed, " let us,
my friends, all be converted to Jesus." He was heard with
peculiar attention, being considered as a captain among
them. In the evening we sang hymns in Jonathan's tent.
The people all came and listened with much seriousness.
26th. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat
down the river, to see us. They were full of astonishment,
but soon took courage, and handled us, to discover whether
we were made of the same materials with themselves. An
old man, Netsiak, addressed Brother Kohlmeister : " Are you
" Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at

73
" Eivektok have heard your name often mentioned." Hq
seemed to be a sensible man, and a captain among his
tribe. We could not help remarking the difference between these
Esquimaux and their countrymen living on the same coasts
with our settlements. The former are very poor, and mise
rably equipped, whereas the latter, by their intercourse with
us and other Europeans, have acquired many conveniences,
and are, by barter, well provided with what they want.
27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by
most of the men, and some women, in their skin-boat, and
arrived at a bay, which, by the winding of the stream, ap
pears like a lake, surrounded on all sides with gently rising
grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly
larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named
this place Unity's Bay. There is here a very good place for
a Missionary settlement. A fine slope extends for about half
an English mile, bounded on each extremity by a hill, on
each of which we erected high signals. The land is even and
dry. Juniper, currants, and other berries, grow here in
abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of
a few hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the
S. S. E. and we named it Pilgerruh, (Pilgrim's rest). Bro
ther Kohlmeister made drawings of the situation.
From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity
of making the Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our
visit to this country, and addressed them both singly and in
companies. Nor were Jonathan and Jonas remiss in convers
ing with them about the concerns of their immortal souls, de
claring to them the love of God our Saviour towards them.
We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan's wife, seated with a
company of women, under the shadow of a skin-boat, set on
edge, exhorting them, with great simplicity and fervour, to
hear and believe the gospel.
28th, Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent
L

74
some hours in examining the banks of the river. On as
cending the first eminence, the view of the interior is in
general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds in some places,
foil of wildgeese. The timber in the woods hereabouts- is
not large: we found none fit for masts. Tlie largest trees
were not more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or
twenty feet high. They are chiefly larch and pines. In
some places we found them burnt or withered, and were
informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of the
Indian's fires. Indeed we saw several places where the In
dians had put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of then-
abode. Berries grow everywhere, and between the river
and the wood, the plain is chiefly covered with willows,
hi^k grass growing between them, but these and the various
shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them.
In all directions we saw flie tracks pf reindeer, and there
is every appearance of its bong a place much frequented
by these animals. Deeper in the wood, we found great
quantities of sorrel and other European plants. The woods
appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could
reach, often coining down to the edge of the river. The
Esquimaux say. that higher up, large timber is found. On
our return to the skin-boat we found ourselves pretty much
fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper, cooked by the
Esquimaux, consisting of ship '^ biscuit, dried fish, and raw
whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother
Kmoch to taste the latter, and he reported, that having once
overcome his aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the
kernel of a nut, but heated his stomach like a hot posset.
29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from
going out much.
30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux,
met for public worship. Brother Kohlmeister once more
explained to them our intention in coining thus far to visit
than. He addressed than to the following effect: *'*¦ That

75
K already, many years ago, many excellent people in the
" country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them
" with much love, and felt desirous that the inhabitants of
" the Ungava country also might hear the comfortable
(e word of God, and be instructed in it: for they had heard
" that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through
" ignorance, served the Torngak, or evil spirit, and were
" led by him into the commission of all manner of sin, that
t( they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of eternal
" darkness and misery. Out of love, therefore," continued
the missionary, " they have sent us to you, and out of love
fS we have come to you, to tell you how you may be saved,
te and become happy, peaceful children of Godj being' deli-
" vered from the fear of death, which is now upon you all,
" and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace here-
" after, even by receiving the gospel, and turning to JeSus,
" who is the only Creator and Saviour of all men. He
" died for your sins, for qur sins, and for the sins of all
" mankind, as our surety, suffering the punishment we
" deserved, that you, by receiving Him, and believing on
" Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal
" darkness and pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal
" rest. You cannot yet understand these comfortable
" words of the gospel, but if it is your sincere wish to know
" the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and hearts,
" to hear and understand them. These my companions
« were as ignorant as you, but they now thank God, that;
" they know Jesus as their Saviour, and are assured
" that through His death they shall inherit everlasting
" life."
During this address all were silent and very attentive.
Some exclaimed: " O we desire to hear more about it!"
Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said : " I am indeed old, but if
" you come to live here, I will certainly remove hither also,
" and live with you and be converted."

76
When we put the question to them, whether they were
willing, that we should come and dwell with them, and in
struct them, they all answered with a loud and cheerful
voice. *¦** Kaititse tok, Kaititse tok /¦ " O do come soon, and
" live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and hve
"- with you." Jonathan and Jonas also bore-ample testi
mony to the truth of what we had spoken, and their words
seemed to make a deep impression on all their countrymen.
Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish that
we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country.
Five of the fourteen families who mean to reside here next
winter, are from Eivektok.
Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably,
but consequently grows more shallow. The country is
pleasant, with wood, grassy plains, and gentle hills.
31st. Having finished all our observations here, we
dropped down the stream to the place, where we had disco
vered the first tents.
In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a
great number of whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are
numerous on both shores, both in summer and winter. All
tlie Esquimaux declared, that this was the best provision-
place in the whole country, and they consequently flock to
it from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their
stay during the winter. The greater number of those we
found here, purposed spending next winter in this neigh
bourhood. The Esquimaux are prevented fiom making
this place their constant residence by their fear of the land-
Indians, which cause them to quit it sooner than they
otherwise would wish to do.
We spared no pains to collect all the information we
possibly could obtain, on every subject relating to. this
situation, both as to itself, and in reference to the possibility
of approaching it with a ship, as likewise respecting the
inhabitants of tbe Ungava ^country in general. It appeared

77
evident, that the place above described is the most eligible
for forming a missionary-settlement.
We found it unnecessary to proceed to the Westward, by
the account given us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok,
whose information hitherto we had always found correct^
and confidently to be relied on.
He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be
found on the coast.
2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and
Koksoak, they knew of no place where a ship might with
safety approach the land.
3. That at this time we should probably find no inha
bitants, as they had all gone into the interior to hunt
reindeer. We therefore now considered the business committed to
us to be accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak,
thankful to God our Saviour for the many proofs of His
favour and protection, experienced in the execution of our
commission.

CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Okkak.
SEPTEMBER 1st — At ten A. M. we fell down the river
with the ebb-tide, and about noon anchored near its mouth.
The Esquimaux showed great attachment to us, and could
hardly resolve to take a final leave. They called after us,
" Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you."
Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok,
followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river.
We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board
with an inscription similar to that put up at George river,
but with the day of our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st,

78
instead of the day of our arrival, Aug. 7th. The same
solemnities took place as on the former occasion. Our
faithful pilot Uttakiyok, who had rendered us such impor
tant and essential services, now took leave of us, as he
Intends to spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He
repeated his assurance, that if we settled here, he would be
the first to join us, and to turn with his whole heart to God.
Not willing to be any longer incumbered with the skin-boat,
we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a
reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly
gratified, and thankful for this species of remuneration.
2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us, South river, and
steered to the N. of Kernerauyak and Kikkertorsoak. In
the evening we cast anchor in an open road, among the
Nachorutsit islands, with fine weather.
3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and
proceeded rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on,
which obliged us to come to an anchor at Pitsiolak. When
it cleared up, we proceeded, steering between Allukpalak
and Nipkotok, and cast anchor in the open sea, near Ker-
nertut, where, on our first arrival, we encountered such
a tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and
fair. 4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the
island Nauyet, at the mouth of the Kangertlualuksoak,
where we cast anchor, having performed the same voyage
in three days, which took us twelve on our former passage.
The distance may be about 100 English miles.
5th. Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the
highest point of Nauyet, as a ship entering the river must
keep near this island, the shore on the other side being very
foul. Contrary winds now obhged us to enter the bay, and
cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on the 9th
of August.
6th. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. The Es-

79
quimaux went on shore, and pitched their tent. Of late
they generally spent the night on board the boat.
7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented
our sailing. Our men went out to hunt, and Paul returned
in the evening with a deer.
8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole
country had the appearance of the middle of winter. We
dropped down with the ebb-tide, but were obliged to anchor
again near the entrance of the bay. When the tide turned
we proceeded, and, leaving Kikkertorsoak to the right, made
for cape Kattaktok, where we spent the night at anchor
among some low islands. The night was clear, and a comet
appeared N. by W.
9th. Wind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun
rise, and steered for Uibvaksoak, and so rapidly did our
boat make way through the waves, that we arrived there al
ready at four in the afternoon, passing swiftly by the Dra
gon's dwelling, (Torngets). A thunder-storm was ap
proaching. The wind, which felt quite warm, was in our
rear, and violent gusts assailed us now and then, which made
us shorten sail; yet the boat seemed to fly from island to
island. We were unable to find a safe anchorage till 8 P. M.
when it was already dark. We had sailed, in fourteen hours,
about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet with
the spray of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux
were obliged, in this condition, to lie down either on deck
or on shore.
10th. Reached Omanek, about 40 or 50 miles sail.
1 1th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were con
fined to our narrow cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp
burning. 12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon
we were saluted by some shots from Killinek Esquimaux,
who were halting not far from the Ikkerasak, or straits, at
the entrance of which we cast anchor about 7 P. M.

80
I3th. Though we wished to have some conversation with'
the Killinek people, as they cannot often come to Okkak,
yet we thought it adviseable to lose no time, and, with the
ebb-tide, passed through the Ikkerasak in perfect safety.
When, about 1 P. M. the tide turned, we ran into a cove on
the south side, and at 5 P. M. anchored in the lagoon above
described, (See page 43), the entrance to which will only
admit a boat.
14th. Reached Oppernavik, where we first met Uttakiyok.
15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to
have our Sunday's service on deck. The wind, however,
soon turning against us, we were compelled to return to our
former anchorage.
1 6th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind
and rain, and on the latter day much snow fell.
ISth. Reached Kikkertarsoak about 1 P.M. Our men
went out in their kayaks, and returned in the evening with
three seals. The night was fair, with beautiful appearances
of the Aurora Borealis.
19th. The morning was calm: some indications of ap
proaching storm made us anxious to proceed. We set out
early; but a fog coming on, we came again to an anchor off
a barren island. After staying here two hours, hoping for a
favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and
steered S. W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this
occasion, we could not helg admiring the composure of the
Esquimaux. But having last night made a hearty meal of
the provisions they had acquired, they seemed to take things
easy, and thought it would all be right in the end. So it
turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept
along shore, till we got to the promontory Kakkeviak,
where, on our passage, we had nearly suffered shipwreck.
(See page 38). Here we cast anchor in a wide shallow bay,
and spent a quiet night.
20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was favour-

81
able, though shifting from W. to N. W, N. and N. E. At 7
P. M. we reached Kumaktorvik, and found good anchorage
close to the Esquimaux winter-houses ; but we were disap
pointed by finding them empty, the people being probably
out on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses stand
ing, apparently not old, and the traces of eight others, situ
ated on a low point of land, well covered with grass, and
surrounded by high mountains.
21st. Wind N. W. set sail by break of day; reached Nen
noktok about noon, and steered across Sangmiyok bay, for
the northern promontory in Nachvak bay. Sangmiyok bay
is full of breakers, and the sea running pretty high, they
appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the af
ternoon, we got no farther than the steep rocks under which
we had spent the night of July the 18th, where we came to
an anchor. A heavy swell from the sea, and violent gusts
of wind assailing us in all directions from the mountains,
gave us much uneasiness ; but, by the protecting care of
God, we suffered no harm.
22d. It blew hard from the N. W. and prevented our run
ning into Nachvak bay. Our situation being highly dangerous,
and the wind favouring our proceeding, we determined to
pass by Nachvak. But having sailed across the bay, our
captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper
to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some
articles here in a cove, which he wished to secure. We
therefore went on shore, and found, many fragments of the
bones of whales, whence we inferred that whales are some
times cast on shore in this place.
23d. A heavy storm came on from the N. W. To-day
we caught the first cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable
change of diet for us and our people.
24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove
and steered for Nachvak, and came, accidentally, to the very
place where Jonathan's goods were deposited. Not perceiv-
M

82
ing any Esquimaux on shore, Jonathan and Thukkekina
went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them. Mean
while we landed, and on the declivity of a, hill found a great
quantity of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and
Thukkekina returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced
to see us again.
25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the
Esquimaux. Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and
brought some fine specimens of steatite.*
26th. Wind strong at N. W. we set sail ; but the wind
failing, we could not reach Saeglek, as proposed, but spent
the night in the open sea. It passed, however, without any
unpleasant occunences.
27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as
far as the Saeglek islands. Having passed through a very
narrow Ikkerasak, with hardly sufficient depth of water for
so large a boat, we cast anchor near our former station at
Kikkertarsoak. 28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening
stormy. 29th. Set sail about 6 A. M. with a strong wind at W. and
in the evening had reached the Kangertluksoak islands.
30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to
spend the day shut up in our small cabin by lamp-light.
The land was covered with snow. We were detained here
very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of the wind
and weather.
October 3d. We steered for the promontory of Kaumayok,
but the wind dying away, and at length turning to the
South, we could not gain any safe harbour, and were obliged
to tack about all night in the open sea. The weather, how
ever, was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light.
4th. At 7 A. M. we succeeded in passing the Northern
Ikkerasak near cape Mugford with the tide, and the wind
becoming fair, soon brought us among the Okkak islands.

83
About noon we doubled cape Uivak, and perceived Esqui
maux on shore, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and
gave us by signs to understand, that the ship (the brig
Jemima, sent annually with provisions to the settlements)
was still at Okkak.
We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and grati
tude to God our Saviour which we felt, when we again
beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak, after an absence of
fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our boat
approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns
to give notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to
gain the entrance to the harbour, he came to meet us in the
ship's boat, and about one o'clock we landed. The Mis
sionaries and the Esquimaux met us with tears of joy and
thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to God, who had
so wonderfully kept His protectiug hand over us during this
perilous voyage, and granted us to return home in safety.
Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of
October, and we calculated it to be a distance, of from 1200
to 1300 miles. Benjamin Gottlieb Kohlmeister.
George Kmoch.

W, M'Dowall, Printer, Pcmberton Row,
London.

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