3 900.' 06424 5856

L<-.---i'

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Gift of

William R. Coe

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE
BY LAND.
BEING THE NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION FROM THE
ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC,

UNDEETAKEN WITH THE VIEW OP EXPLOEING A EOUTE ACEOSS
THE CONTINENT TO BEITISH COLUMBIA THEOUGH BEITISH
TEEEITOET, BY ONE OP THE NOETHEEN PASSES
IN THE EOCBY MOUNTAINS.

BY
VISCOUNT MILTON, M.P., F.B.GhS., F.G.S., &c,
AND
W. B. CHEADLE, MA., M.D. Cantab., F.B.G.S.

Ros. Well, this is the Forest of Arden.
Touch. Ay, now I am in Arden ; the more fool I ; when I was at home, I was in s
better place : but travellers must be content. As You Like It.

SIXTH EDITION.
LONDON :
OASSELL, PETTER, AND GAL PIN,
LTJDGATE HILL, B.C.
[the right op translation is reserved.]

LONDON :
CASSELL, FETTKR, AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE WORKS.
LUDGATE HILL, K.C.

TO
THE COUNTESS FITZWILLIAM
AND
MRS. CHEADLE,
WHO TOOK SO GREAT AN INTEREST IN THE SUCCESS OP THE TRAVELLERS, THIS
ACCOUNT OF THEIR JOURNEY IS DEDICATED BY
THE AUTHOKS.
4, Gsosvenob Square,
1st Jime, 1865.

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER I. paob
Sail for Quebec — A Rough Voyage — Our Fellow-Passengers — The Wreck
— Off the Banks of Newfoundland— Quebec — Up the St. Lawrence —
Niagara — The Captain and the Major — Westward Again — Sleeping
Cars — The Red Indian — Steaming up the Missisippi — Lake Pippin —
Indian Legend — St. Paul, Minnesota — The Great Pacific Railroad —
Travelling by American Stage-Wagon — The Country — Our Dog Rover
— The Massacre of the Settlers by the Sioux — Culpability of the
United States Government — The Prairie — Shooting by the Way —
Reach Georgetown  1
CHAPTER II.
Georgetown — Minnesota Volunteers — The Successful Hunters — An Indian
Hag — Resolve to go to Fort Garry in Canoes — Rumours of a Sioux
Outbreak — The Half-breeds refuse to Accompany us — Prepare to Start
Alone — Our Canoes and Equipment — A Sioux War Party — The Half-
breed's Story — Down Red River— Strange Sights and Sounds — Our
First Night Out; — Effects of the Sun and Mosquitoes — Milton Disabled
— Monotony of the Scenery — Leaky Canoes — Travelling by Night — The
" Oven " Camp — Hunting Geese in Canoes— Meet the Steamer —
Milton's Narrow Escape — Treemiss and Cheadle follow Suit — Carried
Down the Rapids — Vain Attempts to Ascend — A Hard Struggle — On
Board at last— Start once more— Delays— Try a Night Voyage again—
The " Riband Storm" — " In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain " — Fearful
Phenomena— Our Miserable Plight — No Escape — Steering in Utter
Darkness— Snags and Rocks— A Long Night's Watching— No Fire—
A Drying Day — Another Terrible Storm — And Another — Camp of
Disasters — Leave it at last — Marks of the Fury of the Storms — Pro
visions at an End — Fishing for Gold-eyes— A Day's Fast — Slaughter of
Wild-Fowl  Our Voracity — A Pleasant Awakening — Caught up by the
Steamer  Pembina — Fort Garry — La Ronde — We go under Canvass . 18

Vlll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III. PAGR
Fort Garry— Origin of the Red River Settlement— The First Settlers— Theii
Sufferings— The North- Westers— The Grasshoppers— The Blackbirds—
The Flood— The Colony in 1862— King Company— Farming at Red
River— Fertility of the Soil— Isolated Position of the Colony— Obstruc
tive Policy of the Company — Their Just Dealing and Kindness to the
Indians — Necessity for a Proper Colonial Government — Value of the
Country— French Canadians and Half-breeds— Their Idleness and
Frivolity — Hunters and Voyageurs — Extraordinary Endurance — The
English and Scotch Settlers— The Spring and Fall Hunt— Our Life at
Fort Garry — Too Late to cross the Mountains before Winter — Our
Plans — Men — Horses — Bucephalus — Our Equipment — Leave Fort Garry
— The "Noce" — La Ronde's Last Carouse — Delightful Travelling— A
Night Alarm— Vital Deserts — Fort Ellice — Delays — Making Pemmican —
Its Value to the Traveller — Swarms of Wild-Fowl — Good Shooting —
The Indian Summer — A Salt Lake Country — Search for Water — A
Horse's Instinct — South Saskatchewan — A1™6 a* Carlton . . .36
CHAPTER IV.
Carlton — Buffalo close to the Fort — Fall of Snow — Decide to Winter near
White Fish Lake — The Grisly Bears — Start for the Plains — The Dead
Buffalo— The White Wolf— Running Buffalo Bulls— The Gathering of
the Wolves — Treemiss Lost — How he Spent the Night — Indian Hospi
tality — Visit of the Crees — The Chief's Speech — Admire our Horses —
Suspicions — Stratagem to Elude the Crees — Watching Horses at
Night — Suspicious Guests — The Cows not to be Found — More Running
— Tidings of our Pursuers — Return to the Fort . . . .59
CHAPTER V.
The Ball — Half-breed Finery — Voudrie and Zear return to Fort Garry —
Treemiss starts for the Montagne du Bois — Leave Carlton for Winter
Quarters — Shell River — La Belle Prairie — Riviere Crochet — The Indians
of White Fish Lake — Kekek-ooarsis, or " Child of the Hawk," and
Keenamontiayoo, or " The Long Neck " — Their Jollification — Passionate
Fondness for Rum — Excitement in the Camp — Indians flock in to Taste
the Fire-water — Sitting out our Visitors — A Weary Day — Cache the
Rum Keg by Night — Retreat to La Belle Prairie — Site of our House 
La Ronde as Architect — How to Build a Log Hut — The Chimney  A
Grand Crash — Our Dismay — Milton supersedes La Ronde — The Chimney
Rises again — Our Indian Friends — The Frost sets in . . .70
CHAPTER VI.
Furnishing — Cheadle's Visit to Carlton — Treemiss there — His Musical Even
ing with Atahk-akoohp— A very Cold Bath — State Visit of the Assini-
boines — Their Message to Her Majesty — How they found out we had
Rum — Fort Milton Completed — The Crees of the Woods — Contrast to

CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
the Crees of the Plains — Indian Children — Absence of Deformity — A
" Moss-bag " — Kekek-ooarsis and his Domestic Troubles — The Winter
begins in Earnest — Wariness of all Animals — Poisoning Wolves— Caution
of the Foxes — La Ronde and Cheadle start for the Plains — Little Mis-
quapamayoo — Milton's Charwoman — On the Prairies— Stalking Buffalo
— Belated — A Treacherous Blanket — A Cold Night Watch — More
Hunting — Cheadle's Wits go Wool-gathering — La Ronde's Indignation
— Lost all Night — Out in the Cold again — Our Camp Pillaged — Turn
Homewards — Rough and Ready Travelling — Arrive at Fort Milton —
Feasting  79
CHAPTER VII.
Trapping — The Fur-bearing Animals — Value of different Furs — The Trapper's
Start into the Forest — How to make a Marten Trap — Steel Traps for
Wolves and Foxes — The Wolverine — The Way he Gets a Living — His
Destructiveness and Persecution of the Trapper — His Cunning — His
Behaviour when Caught in a Trap — La Ronde's Stories of the Carcajou
—The Trapper's Life— The Vast Forest in Winter— Sleeping Out— The
Walk of Indians and Half-breeds — Their Instinct in the Woods — The
Wolverine Demolishes our Traps — Attempts to Poison him — Treemiss's
Arrival — He relates his Adventures — A Scrimmage in the Dark — The
Giant Tamboot — His Fight with Atahk-akoohp — Prowess of Tamboot — •
Decide to send our Men to Red River for Supplies — Delays . . .99
CHAPTER VIII.
Milton visits Carlton — Fast Travelling — La Ronde and Bruneau set out for
Fort Garry — Trapping with Misquapamayoo — Machinations against the
Wolverine — The Animals' Fishery — The Wolverine Outwits us — Return
Home — The Cree Language — How an Indian tells a Story — New Year's
Day among the Crees — To the Prairies again — The Cold — Travelling
with Dog-sleighs — Out in the Snow — Our New Attendants — Prospect
of Starvation — A Day of Expectation — A Rapid Retreat — The Journey
Home — Indian Voracity — Res Angusta Domi — Cheadle's Journey to
the Fort — Perversity of his Companions — " The Hunter " yields to
Temptation — Milton's Visit to Kekek-ooarsis — A Medicine Feast — The
New Song — Cheadle's Journey Home — Isbister and his Dogs — Mahay-
gun, "The Wolf" — Pride and Starvation — Our Meeting at White Fish
Lake ... .  113
CHAPTER IX.
Our New Acquaintances — Taking it Quietly — Mahaygun Fraternises with
Keenamontiayoo — The Carouse — Importunities for Rum — The Hunter
asks for more — A Tiresome Evening — Keenamontiayoo Renounces us —
His Night Adventure — Misquapamayoo's Devotion — The Hunter returns
Penitent — The Plains again — The Wolverine on our Track — The Last
Band of Buffalo — Gaytchi Mohkamarn, " The Big Knife " — The Cache
A

X CONTENTS. PAGE
Intact — Starving Indians — Story of Keenamontiayoo — Indian Gambling
— The Hideous Philosopher — Dog Driving — Shushu's Wonderful
Sagacity — A Long March — Return to La Belle Prairie — Household
Cares— Our Untidy Dwelling — Our Spring Cleaning — The Great Plum
Pudding — Unprofitable Visitors — Rover's Accomplishments Astonish
the Indians — Famine Everywhere ....... 138
CHAPTER X.
La Ronde's Return — Letters from Home — A Feast — The Journey to Red
River and Back — Hardships — The Frozen Train — Three Extra Days — •
The Sioux at Fort Garry — Their Spoils of War — Late Visitors — Musk-
Rats and their Houses — Rat-catching — Our Weather Glass — Moose
Hunting in the Spring — -Extreme Wariness of the Moose — His Stratagem
to Guard against Surprise — Marching during the Thaw — Prepare to
leave Winter Quarters — Search for the Horses — Their Fine Condition —
Nutritious Pasturage — Leave La Belle Prairie — Carlton again — Good-bye
to Treemiss and La Ronde — Baptiste Supernat — Start for Fort Pitt —
Passage of Wild-Fowl — Baptiste's Stories — Crossing Swollen Rivers —
Addition to our Party — Shooting for a Living — The Prairie Bird's Ball
— Fort Pitt — Peace between the Crees and Blackfeet — Cree Full Dress
— The Blackfeet — The Dress of their Women — Indian Solution of a
Difficulty — Rumours of War — Hasty Retreat of the Blackfeet— Louis
Battenotte, " The Assiniboine " — His Seductive Manners — Departure for
Edmonton — A Night Watch — A Fertile Land — The Works of Beaver —
Their Effect on the Country — Their decline in Power — How we Crossed
the Saskatchewan — Up the Hill — Eggs and Chickens — Arrive at
Edmonton  161
CHAPTER XI.
Edmonton — Grisly Bears — The Roman Catholic Mission at St. Alban's — The
Priest preaches a Crusade against the Grislies — Mr. Pembrun's Story —
The Gold Seekers — Perry, the Miner — Mr. Hardisty's Story — The Cree
in Training — Running for Life — Hunt for the Bears — Life at a Hudson's
Bay Fort — Indian Fortitude — Mr. O'B. introduces Himself — His Exten
sive Acquaintance — The Story of his Life — Wishes to Accompany us 
His Dread of Wolves and Bears — He comes into the Doctor's hands 
He congratulates us upon his Accession to our Party — The Hudson's Bay
People attempt to dissuade us from trying the Leather Pass — Unknown
Country on the West of the Mountains — The Emigrants — The other
Passes — Explorations of Mr. Ross and Dr. Hector — Our Plans  Mr.
O'B. objects to " The Assiniboine " — " The Assiniboine " protests against
Mr. O'B. — Our Party and Preparations  183
CHAPTER XII.
Set out from Edmonton— Prophecies of Evil — Mr. O'B.'s Forebodings 
Lake St. Ann's — We enter the Forest — A Rough Trail — Mr. O'B., im-

CONTENTS. XI
PAGE
pressed with the difficulties which beset him, commences the study of
Paley — Pembina River — The Coal-bed — Game — Curious Habit of the
Willow Grouse — Mr. O'B. en route — Changes wrought by Beaver— The
Assiniboine's Adventure with the Grisly Bears — Mr. O'B. prepares to sell
his Life dearly — Hunt for the Bears— Mr. O'B. Protects the Camp — The
Bull-dogs— The Path through the Pine Forest— The Elbow of the McLeod
— Baptiste becomes Discontented — Trout Fishing — Moose Hunting —
Baptiste Deserts — Council — Resolve to Proceed — We lose the Trail —
The Forest on Fire—Hot Quarters — Working for Life — Escape — Strike
the Athabasca River— First View of the Rocky Mountains — Mr. O'B.
spends a Restless Night — Over the Mountain — Magnificent Scenery —
Jasper House — Wild Flowers — Hunting the " Mouton Gris " and the
" Mouton Blanc "  203
CHAPTER XIII.
Making a Raft — Mr. O'B. at Hard Labour — He admires our "Youthful
Ardour" — News of Mr. Macaulay — A Visitor — Mr. O'B. Fords a
River — Wait for Mr. Macaulay — The Shushwaps of the Rocky Moun
tains — Winter Famine at Jasper House— The Wolverine — The Miners
before us — Start again — Cross the Athabasca — The Priest's Rock —
Site of the Old Fort, " Henry's House "—The Valley of the Myette—
Fording Rapids — Mr. O'B. on Horseback again — Swimming the
Myette — Cross it for the Last Time — The Height of Land — The
Streams run Westward — Buffalo-dung Lake — Strike the Fraser River —
A Day's Wading — Mr. O'B.'s Hair-breadth Escapes — Moose Lake —
Rockingham Falls — More Travelling through Water — Mr. O'B. be
comes disgusted with his Horse — Change in Vegetation — Mahomet's
Bridge — Change in the Rocks — Fork of the Fraser, or original Tete
Jaune Cache — Magnificent Scenery — Robson's Peak — Flood and Forest
— Horses carried down the Fraser — The Pursuit — Intrepidity of the
Assiniboine — He rescues Bucephalus — Loss of Gisquakarn — Mr. O'B.'s
Reflections and Regrets — Sans Tea and Tobacco— The Extent of our
Losses — Mr. O'B. and Mrs. Assiniboine — Arrive at the Cache . . 236
CHAPTER XIV.
Tete Jaune Cache — Nature of the Country — Wonderful View — West of the
Rocky Mountains, Rocky Mountains still — The "Poire,'' or Service
Berry — The Shushwaps of The Cache — The Three Miners — Gain but
little Information about the Road — The Iroquois return to Jasper
House — Loss of Mr. O'B.'s Horse — Leave The Cache — The Watersheds
— Canoe River — Perilous Adventure with a Raft — Milton and the
Woman — Extraordinary Behaviour of Mr. O'B. — The Rescue — The
Watershed of the Thompson — Changes by Beaver — Mount Milton —
Enormous Timber — Cross the River — Fork of the North Thompson —
A Dilemma — No Road to be Found— Cross the North-west Branch —
Mr. O'B.'s Presentiment of Evil — Lose the Trail again — Which Way
shall we Turn? — Resolve to try and reach Kamloops — A Natural
A 2

Xll CONTENTS. PAGE
Bridge — We become Beasts of Burden — Mr. O'B. objects, but is over
ruled by The Assiniboine — "A Hard Road to Travel" — Miseries of
driving Pack-horses — An Unwelcome Discovery — The Trail Ends —
Lost in the Forest — Our Disheartening Condition — Council of War —
Explorations of The Assiniboine, and his Report — A Feast on Bear's
Meat — How we had a Smoke, and were encouraged by The Assiniboine 264
CHAPTER XV.
We commence to Cut our Way — The Pathless Primeval Forest: — The Order
of March — Trouble with our Horses : Their Perversity — Continual
Disasters — Our Daily Fare — Mount Cheadle — Country Improves only
in Appearance — Futile Attempt to Escape out of the Valley — A
Glimpse of. Daylight— Wild Fruits — Mr. O'B. triumphantly Crosses
the River — The Assiniboine Disabled— New Arrangements — Hopes of
Finding Prairie-Land — Disappointment — Forest and Mountain Every
where — False Hopes again — Provisions at an End — Council of War —
The Assiniboine Hunts without Success — The Headless Indian — "Le
Petit Noir" Condemned and Executed — Feast on Horse-flesh — Leave
Black Horse Camp — Forest again — The Assiniboine becomes Dis
heartened — The Grand Rapid — A Dead Lock — Famishing Horses — The
Barrier — Shall we get Past ? — Mr. O'B. and Bucephalus — Extraordinary
Escape of the Latter — More Accidents — La Porte d'Enfer — Step by
Step — The Assiniboine Downcast and Disabled — Mrs. Assiniboine takes
his Place — The Provisions come to an End again — A Dreary Beaver
Swamp — The Assiniboine gives up in Despair — M. O.'B. begins to Doubt,
discards Paley, and prepares to become Insane — We kill another Horse —
A Bird of Good Omen — The Crow speaks Truth — Fresher Sign — A
Trail — The Road rapidly Improves — Out of the Forest at Last ! . .286
CHAPTER XVI.
On a Trail Again — The Effect on Ourselves and Horses — The Changed
Aspect of the Country — Wild Fruits— Signs of Man Increase— En
thusiastic Greeting— Starving again — Mr. O'B. finds Caliban  His
Affectionate Behaviour to him — The Indians' Camp— Information
about Kamloops — Bartering for Food— Clearwater River — Cross the
Thompson— The Lily-berries— Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine Fall Out 
Mr. O'B. flees to the Woods— Accuses The Assiniboine of an Attempt to
Murder him— Trading for Potatoes— More Shushwaps— Coffee and
Pipes— Curious Custom of the Tribe— Kamloops in Sight— Ho ! for
the Fort— Mr. O'B. takes to his Heels— Captain St. Paul— A Good
Supper— Doubts as to our Reception — Our Forbidding Appearance 
Our Troubles at an End — Rest  ¦ gjj
CHAPTER XVII.
Kamloops— We discover True Happiness— The Fort and Surrounding
Country— The Adventures of the Emigrants who preceded us—
Catastrophe at the Grand Rapid— Horrible Fate of Three Canadians—

CONTENTS. Xlll PAGB
Cannibalism — Practicability of a Road by the Yellow Head Pass —
Various Routes from Tete Jaune Cache — Advantages of the Yellow
Head Pass, contrasted with those of the South — The Future Highway to
the Pacific — Return of Mr. McKay — Mr. O'B. sets out alone— The
Murderers — The Shushwaps of Kamloops — Contrast between them and
the Indians East of the Rocky Mountains — Mortality — The Dead Un-
buried — Leave Kamloops— Strike the Wagon Road from the Mines —
Astonishment of the Assiniboine Family — The remarkable Terraces of
the Thompson and Fraser — Their Great Extent : contain Gold — Con
nection with the Bunch-grass — The Road along the Thompson — Cook's
Ferry — The Drowned Murderer — Rarity of Crime in the Colony — The
most Wonderful Road in the World — The Old Trail — Pack-Indians —
Indian Mode of Catching Salmon — Gay Graves — The Grand Scenery of
the Canons — Probable Explanation of the Formation of the Terraces — •
Yale — Hope and Langley — New Westminster — Mr. O'B. turns up again
— Mount Baker— The Islands of the Gulf of Georgia — Victoria, Van
couver Island  322
CHAPTER XVIII.
Victoria — The Rush there from California — Contrast to San Francisco under
similar Circumstances — The Assiniboines see the Wonders of Victoria
— Start for Cariboo — Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine are reconciled —
The former re-establishes his Faith — Farewell to the Assiniboine
Family — Salmon in Harrison River — The Lakes — Mr. 0. B.'s Triumph
— Lilloet — Miners' Slang — The "Stage" to Soda Creek— Johnny the
Driver — Pavilion Mountain — The Rattlesnake Grade — The Chasm —
Way-side Houses on the Road to the Mines — We meet a Fortunate
Miner — The Farming Land of the Colony — The Steamer — Frequent
Cocktails— The Mouth of Quesnelle— The Trail to William's Creek— A
Hard Journey — Dead Horses — Cameron Town, William's Creek . . 351
CHAPTER XIX.
William's Creek, Cariboo — The Discoverers — The Position and Nature
of the Gold Country — Geological Features — The Cariboo District; —
Hunting the Gold up the Fraser to Cariboo — Conjectured Position of
the Auriferous Quartz Veins — Various kinds of Gold — Drawbacks to
Mining in Cariboo — The Cause of its Uncertainty — Extraordinary
Richness of the Diggings — " The Way the Money Goes " — Miners'
Eccentricities — Our Quarters at Cusheon's — Price of Provisions — The
Circulating Medium — Down in the Mines — Profits and Expenses —
The "Judge" — Our Farewell Dinner — The Company — Dr. B  1
waxes Eloquent — Dr. B — ¦ — k's Noble Sentiments — The Evening's
Entertainment — Dr. B- — -1 retires, but is heard of again — General
Confusion — The Party breaks up — Leave Cariboo — Boating down the
Fraser — Camping Out — William's Lake — Catastrophe on the River —
The Express Wagon — Difficulties on the Way — The Express-man Pro
phesies his own Fate — The Road beyond Lytton — A Break-down —
Furious Drive into Yale —Victoria once more  364

XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX. PAGE
Nanaimo and San Juan — Resources of British Columbia and Vancouver
Island — Minerals — Timber— Abundance of Fish — Different kinds of
Salmon — The Hoolicans, and the Indian Method of Taking them —
Pasturage — The Bunch-grass : its Peculiarities and Drawbacks — Scarcity
of Farming Land — Different Localities — Land in Vancouver Island —
Contrast between California and Britis*h Columbia — Gross Misrepresen
tations of the Latter — Necessity for Saskatchewan as an Agricultural
Supplement — Advantages of a Route across the Continent — The
Americans before us — The Difficulties less by the British Route —
Communication with China and Japan by this Line — The Shorter
Distance — The Time now come for the Fall of the Last Great Monopoly
— The North-West Passage by Sea, and that by Land — The Last News
of Mr. O'B. — Conclusion  385
Appendix. .  39s

LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
Our Party Across the Mountains  Frontispiece.
Our Night Camp on Eagle River. — Expecting the Crees ... 68
Our Winter Hut. — La Belle Prairie  76
A Marten Trap  102
Swamp pormed by Beaver, with Ancient Beaver House and Dam . 179
Fort Edmonton, on the North Saskatchewan  183
The Forest on Fire  225
Over the Mountain, near Jasper House  231
View prom the Hill opposite Jasper House. — The Upper Lake op
the Athabasca River and Priest's Rock  232
Crossing the Athabasca River, in the Rocky Mountains . . . 245
The Assiniboine rescues Bucephalus  259
Our Misadventure with the Rapt in crossing Canoe River . . 271
A View on the North Thompson, looking Eastward . . . 275
The Trail at an End  281
Mr. O'B. triumphantly Crosses the River  291
The Headless Indian  296
The Terraces on the Fraser River  338
Yale, on the Fraser River  347
The "Rattlesnake Grade." — Pavillon Mountain, British Columbia;
altitude, 4,000 peit  356
A Way-side House. — Arrival op Miners  359
A Way-seoe House at Midnight  359
Miners washing for Gold  372
The Cameron " Claim," William's Creek, Cariboo .... 373
General Map op British North America, showing the Authors'
Route across the Continent .... (Bound with Volume.)
Map op the Western Portion op British North America, showing
the Route across the Rocky Mountains by the Yellow Head,
or Leather Pass, into British Columbia, on a larger scale.
(In the Pocket.)

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

The following pages contain the narrative of an
Expedition across the Continent of North America,
through the Hudson's Bay Territories, into British
Columbia, by one of the northern passes in the
Rocky Mountains. The expedition was undertaken
with the design of discovering the most direct route
through British territory to the gold regions of
Cariboo, and exploring the unknown country on the
western flank of the Rocky Mountains, in the neigh
bourhood of the sources of the north branch of the
Thompson River.
The Authors have been anxious to give a faithful
account of their travels and adventures amongst the
prairies, forests, and mountains of the Far West, and
have studiously endeavoured to preserve the greatest
accuracy in describing countries previously little
known. But one of the principal objects they have

XV111 PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
had in view has been to draw attention to the
vast importance of establishing a highway from the
Atlantic to the Pacific through the British posses
sions ; not only as establishing a connection between
the different English colonies in North America,
but also as affording a means of more rapid and
direct communication with China and Japan.
Another advantage which would follow — no less
important than the preceding — would be the
opening out and colonisation of the magnificent
regions of the Red River and Saskatchewan, where
65,000 square miles of a country of unsurpassed
fertility, and abounding in mineral wealth, lies
isolated from the world, neglected, almost unknown,
although destined, at no distant period perhaps, to
become one of the most valuable possessions of
the British Crown.
The idea of a route across the northern part
of the Continent is not a new one. The project
was entertained by the early French settlers in
Canada, and led to the discovery of the Rocky
Mountains. It has since been revived and ably
advocated by Professor Hind and others, hitherto
without success.
The favourite scheme of geographers in this
country for the last three centuries has been the

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. xix
discovery of a North- West Passage by sea, as the
shortest route to the rich countries of the East.
The discovery has been made, but in a commercial
point of view it has proved valueless. We have
attempted to show that the original idea of the
French Canadians was the right one, and that the
true North- West Passage is by land, along the
fertile belt of the Saskatchewan, leading through
British Columbia to the splendid harbour of Esqui-
malt, and the great coal-fields of Vancouver Island,
which offer every advantage for the protection and
supply of a merchant fleet trading thence to India,
China, and Japan.
The Blustrations of this Work are taken almost
entirely from photographs and sketches taken on the
spot, and will, it is hoped, possess a certain value
and interest, as depicting scenes never before drawn
by any pencil, and many of which had never pre
viously been visited by any white man, some of them
not even by an Indian. Our most cordial thanks are
due to Mr. R. P. Leitch, and Messrs. Cooper and
Linton, for the admirable manner in which they
have been executed ; and to Mr. Arrowsmith, for the
great care and labour he has bestowed on working
out the geography of a district heretofore so imper
fectly known. We also beg to acknowledge the

XX PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
very great obligations under which we lie to Sir
James Douglas, late Governor of British Columbia
and Vancouver Island; Mr. Donald Fraser, of
Victoria; and Mr. McKay, of Kamloops, for much
valuable information concerning the two colonies,
and who, with many others, showed us the greatest
kindness during our stay in those countries.
4, Geosveitoe Square,
June 1st, I860 , --,...-

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The favourable reception and rapid sale of the First
Edition of this Work, so gratifying to the Authors,
must be their apology for sending forth a Second
with but little alteration. With the exception of
the correction of a few trifling inaccuracies, and
the insertion of some additional information relating
to the Red River Settlement, the present Edition is
little more than a reprint of the former one. For
the further details, contained in the Appendix, the
Authors are indebted to the kindness of Mr. Dallas,
the Governor of Rupert's Land, to whom they beg
to tender their best thanks for the assistance he has
rendered them.
Sept. 1th, 1865.

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

In the various reviews of this Work which have from
time to time appeared, the critics have differed greatly
in the measure of their faith in Mr. O'B., one of the
most prominent characters in the narrative. Some
have merely expressed themselves as troubled with
vague doubts whether he ever had any existence,
except in the imagination of the Authors; while others
have at once unhesitatingly assumed that he was a
fictitious character; and others again, on the contrary,
have not only heartily accepted him as a reality, but,
being doubtless possessed of special sources of infor
mation — perhaps, indeed, being numbered amongst
the legion of Mr. O'B.'s acquaintances — have also
disclosed to the public the further particulars that he
is a clergyman, and that his name is O'Brien ! As
these doubts and erroneous statements might affect, in
some degree, the general credit of a narrative, the

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. XX111
value of which, as an account of the exploration of
a country little known, must depend on its careful
fidelity, the Authors feel themselves called upon to
state — First, that Mr. O'B. is not a fictitious cha
racter, but a real actor in the story, portrayed as faith
fully and truly as it lay in the power of the Authors
to depict him; mid. that the adventures which he is
recorded to have met with are in no wise exaggerated
or imaginary, but strictly true. Secondly, that
although Mr. O'B. was passionately devoted to the
study of, theology, and a staunch and enthusiastic
Churehman, he was not a clergyman. Lastly, that
his name was not O'Brien.
Should Mr. O'B. be the means of drawing atten
tion to and promoting the settlement of the Fertile
Belt, and the formation of an Overland Route to the
Pacific across British America, he will have rendered
his country very valuable service.

October 15th, 1865.

PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION.

Since the publication of the Fourth Edition of this
work the Authors have received a letter from Mr.
M'Kay, of Kamloops, British Columbia, who was
employed by the Colonial Government during the
summer of 1865 to explore the country between
William's Creek, Cariboo, and Tete Jaune Cache.
An extract from this letter is given in the Appendix.
It confirms the conclusions of the Authors that the
most practicable route from the fertile belt of the
Saskatchewan to the Gold Regions of British
Columbia is by the Leather or Yellow Head Pass,
and along the north branch of the Thompson River.
6, Hyde Park Place,
Cumberland Qate, W.,
January 25th, 1866.

THE
NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.

CHAPTER I.
Sail for Quebec — A Bough Voyage — Our Fellow-Passengers — The
Wreck — Off the Banks of Newfoundland — Quebec — Up the St.
Lawrence — Niagara/ — The Captain and the Major — Westward
Again — Sleeping Cars — The Red Indian — Steaming up the Mis-
sisippi — Lake Pippin — Indian Legend — St. Paul, Minnesota —
The Great Pacific Railroad — Travelling by American Stage-
Wagon — The Country — Our Dog Rover — The Massacre of the
Settlers by the Sioux— Culpability of the United States Govern
ment — The Prairie — Shooting by the Way — Reach Georgetown.
On the 19th of June, 1862, we embarked in the
screw-steamer Anglo-Saxon, bound from Liverpool to
Quebec. The day was dull and murky ; and as the
tender left the landing-stage, a drizzling rain began to
fall. This served as an additional damper to our
spirits, already sufficiently low at the prospect of
leaving home for a long and indefinite period. Un
pleasant anticipations of ennui, and still more bodily
suffering, had risen up within the hearts of both of
us — for we agree in detesting a sea- voyage, although
not willing to go the length of endorsing the con
fession wrung from that light of the American

2 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Church — the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher — by the
agonies of sea-sickness, that " those whom God hateth
he sendeth to sea."
We had a very rough passage, fighting against
head winds nearly all the way ; but rapidly getting
our sea-legs, we suffered little from ennui, being
diverted by our observations on a somewhat curious
collection of fellow-passengers. Conspicuous amongst
them were two Romish bishops of Canadian sees, on
their return from Rome, where they had assisted at
the canonisation of the Japanese martyrs, and each
gloried in the possession of a handsome silver medal,
presented to them by his Holiness the Pope for their
eminent services on that occasion. These two digni
taries presented a striking contrast. One, very tall
and emaciated, was the very picture of an ascetic,
and passed the greater part of his time in the cabin
reading his missal and holy books. His inner man
he satisfied by a spare diet of soup and fish, gratify
ing to the full no carnal appetite except that for snuff,
which he took in prodigious quantity, and avoiding
all society except that of his brother bishop. The
latter, "a round, fat, oily man of God," of genial
temper, and sociable disposition, despised not the good
things of this world, and greatly affected a huge
meerschaum pipe, from which he blew a cloud with
great complacency. As an antidote to them, we
had an old lady afflicted with Papophobia, who
caused us much amusement by inveighing bitterly
against the culpable weakness of which Her Majesty
the Queen had been guilty, in accepting the present

THE DEMORALISED COLONEL. 6
of a side-board from Pius IX. A Canadian colonel,
dignified, majestic, and speaking as with authority,
discoursed political wisdom to an admiring and
obsequious audience. He lorded it over our little
society for a brief season, and then suddenly dis
appeared. Awful groans and noises, significant of
sickness and suffering, were heard proceeding from
his cabin. But, at last, one day when the weather
had moderated a little, we discovered the colonel once
more on deck, but, alas ! how changed. His white
hat, formerly so trim, was now frightfully battered ;
his cravat negligently tied ; his whole dress slovenly.
He sat with his head between his hands, dejected,
silent, and forlorn.
The purser, a jolly Irishman, came up at the
moment, and cried, " Holloa, colonel ! on deck ? Glad
to see you all right again."
" All right, sir ! " cried the colonel, fiercely ; " all
right, sir ? I'm not all right. I'm frightfully ill, sir !
I've suffered the tortures of the — condemned ; horrible
beyond expression ; but it's not the pain I complain
of; that, sir, a soldier like myself knows how to
endure. But I'm thofoughly ashamed of myself, and
shall never hold up my head again ! "
" My dear sir," said the purser, soothingly, with a
sly wink at us, " what on earth have you been doing ?
There is nothing, surely, in sea-sickness to be ashamed
of." " I tell you, sir," said the colonel, passionately,
" that it's most demoralising ! Think of a man of my
years, and of my standing and position, lying for
b 2

4 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
hours prone on the floor, with his head over a basin,
making a disgusting beast of himself in the face of
the company ! I've lost my self-respect, sir ; and I
shall never be able to hold up my head amongst my
fellow-men again ! "
As he finished speaking, he again dropped his
head between his hands, and thus did not observe the
malicious smile on the purser's face, or notice the sup
pressed laughter of the circle of listeners attracted
round him by the violence of his language.
The young lady of our society — for we had but
one — was remarkable for her solitary habits and pen
sive taciturnity. When we arrived at Quebec, how
ever, a most extraordinary change came over her;
and we watched her in amazement, as she darted
restlessly up and down the landing-stage in a state of
the greatest agitation, evidently looking for some one
who could not be found. In vain she searched, and
at last rushed off to the telegraph office in a state of
frantic excitement. Later the same day we met her
at the hotel, seated by the side of a young gentleman,
and as placid as ever. It turned out that she had
come over to be married, but her lover had arrived too
late to meet her ; he, however, had at last made his
appearance, and honourably fulfilled his engagement.
A wild Irishman, continually roaring with laughter,
a Northern American, rabid against " rebels," and
twenty others, made up our list of cabin passengers.
Out of these we beg to introduce Mr. Treemiss, a
gentleman going out, like ourselves, to hunt buffalo on
the plains, and equally enthusiastic in his anticipations

OFF THE "BANKS. 5
of a glorious life in the far West. We soon struck
up an intimate acquaintance, and agreed to travel in
company as far as might be agreeable to the plans of
each. Before we reached the banks of Newfoundland
we fell in with numerous evidences of a recent storm ;
a quantity of broken spars floated past, and a dis
masted schooner, battered and deserted by her crew.
On her stern was the name Ruby, and the stumps of
her masts bore the marks of having been recently
cut away.
Off the " banks " we encountered a fog so dense
that we could not see twenty yards ahead. The steam
whistle was blown every five minutes, and the lead
kept constantly going. The ship crashed through
broken ice, and we all strained our eyes for the first
sight of some iceberg looming through the mist. A
steamer passed close to us, her proximity being be
trayed only by the scream of her whistle. Horrible
stories of ships lost with all hands on board, from
running against an iceberg, or on the rock-bound
coast, became the favourite topic of conversation
amongst the passengers ; the captain looked anxious,
and every one uncomfortable.
After two days, however, we emerged in safety
from the raw, chilling fogs into clear sunlight at the
mouth of the St. Lawrence, and on the 2nd of July
steamed up the river to Quebec. The city of Quebec,
with its bright white houses, picked out with green,
clinging to the sides of a commanding bluff, which
appears to rise up in the middle of the great river sa

6 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
as to bar all passage, has a striking beauty beyond
comparison. We stayed but to see the glorious
plains of Abraham, and then hastened up the St.
Lawrence by Montreal, through the lovely scenery of
the " Thousand Islands," and across Lake Ontario to
Toronto. We determined to spend a day at Niagara, and,
taking another steamer here, passed over to Lewiston,
on the American side of the lake, at the mouth
of the Niagara River. From Lewiston a railway
runs to within a mile of the Falls, following the
edge of the precipitous cliffs on the east side of the
narrow ravine, through which the river rushes to
pour itself into Lake Ontario. Glad to escape the
eternal clanging of the engine bell warning people to
get out of the way as the train steamed along the
streets, we walked across the suspension bridge to the
Canadian side of the river, and forward to the Clifton
House. We heard the roar of the cataract soon
after leaving the station, and caught glimpses of it
from time to time along the road; but at last we
came out into the open, near the hotel, and saw, in
full view before us, the American wonder of the
world. Our first impression was certainly one of
disappointment. Hearing so much from earliest
childhood of the great Falls of Niagara, one forms a
most exaggerated conception of their magnitude and
grandeur. But the scene rapidly began to exercise a
charm over us, and as we stood on the edge of the
Horseshoe Fall, on the very brink of the precipice
over which the vast flood hurls itself, we confessed

THE CAPTAIN AND THE MAJOR. 7
the sublimity of the spectacle. We returned con
tinually to gaze on it, more and more fascinated, and
in the bright clear moonlight of a beautiful summer's
night, viewed the grand cataract at its loveliest time.
But newer subjects before us happily forbid any
foolish attempt on our part to describe what so many
have tried, but never succeeded, in painting either
with pen or pencil. On the Lewiston steamer we
had made the acquaintance of Captain  , or,
more properly speaking, he had made ours. The
gallant captain was rather extensively " got up," his
face smooth shaven, with the exception of the upper
lip, which was graced with a light, silky mous
tache. He wore a white hat, cocked knowingly on
one side, and sported an elegant walking cane ; the
blandest of smiles perpetually beamed on his counte
nance, and he accosted us in the most affable and
insinuating manner, with some remark about the heat of
the weather. Dexterously improving the opening thus
made, he placed himself in a few minutes on the most
intimate terms. Regretting exceedingly that he had
not a card, he drew our attention to the silver mount
ing on his cane, whereon was engraved, "Captain
 , of  ." Without further inquiry as to who
we were, he begged us to promise to come over and
stay with him at his nice little place, and we should have
some capital "cock shooting" next winter. The polite
captain then insisted on treating us to mint-juleps at
the bar, and there introduced us with great ceremony
to a tall, angular man, as Major So-and-so, of the
Canadian Rifles.

8 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
The major was attired in a very seedy military
undress suit, too small and too short for him, and he
carried, like Bardolph, a "lantern in the poop,"
which shone distinct from the more lurid and darker
redness of the rest of his universally inflamed features.
His manner was rather misty, yet solemn and grand
withal, and he comported himself with so much
dignity, that far was it from us to smile at his pe
culiar personal appearance. We all three bowed and
shook hands with him with an urbanity almost equal
to that of our friend the captain.
Both our new acquaintances discovered that they
were going to the same place as ourselves, and
favoured us with their society assiduously until we
reached the Clifton House.
After viewing the Falls, we had dinner ; and then
the captain and major entertained us with extra
ordinary stories.
The former related how he had lived at the Cape
under Sir Harry Smith, ridden one hundred and fifty
miles on the same horse in twenty -four hours, and
various other feats, while the "major" obscurely
hinted that he owed his present important command on
the frontier to the necessity felt by the British Govern
ment that a man of known courage and talent should
be responsible during the crisis of the Trent affair.
We returned to Toronto the next day, and lost no
time in proceeding on our way to Red River, travel
ling as fast as possible bf railway through Detroit
and Chicago to La Crosse, in Wisconsin, on the banks
of the Missisippi.

SLEEPING-CARS. 9
We found the sleeping-cars a wonderful advan
tage in our long journeys, and generally travelled
by night. A " sleeping-car " is like an ordinary
railway carriage, with a passage down the centre, after
the American fashion, and on each side two tiers of
berths, like those of a ship. Tou go " on board,"
turn in minus coat and boots, go quietly to sleep, and
are awakened in the morning by the attendant nigger,
in time to get out at your destination. Tou have had
a good night's rest, find your boots ready blacked, and
washing apparatus at one end of the car, and have the
satisfaction of getting over two hundred or three hun
dred miles of a wearisome journey almost without
knowing it. The part of the car appropriated to
ladies is screened off from the gentlemen's compart
ment by a curtain ; but on one occasion, there being
but two vacant berths in the latter, Treemiss was, by
special favour, admitted to the ladies' quarter, where
ordinarily only married gentlemen are allowed — two
ladies and a gentleman kindly squeezing into one
large berth to accommodate him !
At one of the small stations in Wisconsin we met
the first Red Indian we had seen in native dress. He
wore leather shirt, leggings, and moccasins, a blanket
thrown over his shoulders, and his bold-featured,
handsome face was adorned with paint. He was
leaning against a tree, smoking his pipe with great
dignity, not deigning to move or betray the slightest
interest as the train went past him. We could not
help reflecting — as, perhaps, he was doing — with
something of sadness upon the changes which had

10 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
taken place since his ancestors were lords of the
soil, hearing of the white men's devices as a strange
thing, from the stories of their greatest travellers,
or some half-breed trapper who might occasionally
visit them. And we could well imagine the disgust
of these sons of silence and stealth at the noisy trains
which rush through the forests, and the steamers
which dart along lakes and rivers, once the favourite
haunt of game, now driven far away. How bitterly
in their hearts they must curse that steady, unfalter
ing, inevitable advance of the great army of whites,
recruited from every corner of the earth, spreading
over the land like locusts — too strong to resist, too
cruel and unscrupulous to mingle with them in peace
and friendship !
At La Crosse we took steamer up the Missisippi
— in the Indian language, the "Great River," but
here a stream not more than 120 yards in width — for
St. Paul, in Minnesota. The river was very low, and
the steamer — a flat-bottomed, stern-wheel boat, draw
ing only a few inches of water — frequently stuck fast
on the sand bars, giving us an opportunity of seeing
how an American river-boat gets over shallows. Two
or three men were immediately sent overboard, to fix
a large pole. At the top was a pulley, and through
this a stout rope was run, one end of which was
attached to a cable passed under the boat, the other
to her capstan. The latter was then manned, the
vessel fairly lifted up, and the stern wheel being put
in motion at the same time, she swung over the shoal
into deep water.

INDIAN LEGEND. 11
The scenery was very pretty, the river flow
ing in several channels round wooded islets ; along
the banks were fine rounded hills, some heavily
timbered, others bare and green. When we reached
Lake Pippin, an expansion of the Missisippi, some
seven or eight miles long, and perhaps a mile in
width, we found a most delightful change from the
sultry heat we had experienced when shut up in the
narrow channel. Here the breeze blew freshly over
the water, fish splashed about on every side, and
could be seen from the boat, and we were in the
midst of a beautiful landscape. Hills and woods sur
round the lake ; and, about half way, a lofty cliff,
called the " Maiden's Rock," stands out with bold
face into the water. It has received its name from an
old legend that an Indian maiden, preferring death to
a hated suitor forced upon her by her relatives, leaped
from the top, and was drowned in the lake below.
Beyond Lake Pippin the river became more shallow
and difficult, and we were so continually delayed by
running aground that we did not reach St. Paul until
several hours after dark.
St. Paul, the chief city of the state of Minnesota,
is the great border town of the North Western States.
Beyond, collections of houses called cities dwindle
down to even a single hut — an outpost in the wil
derness. One of these which we passed on the road,
a solitary house, uninhabited, rejoiced in the name of
" Breekenridge City ; " and another, " Salem City,"
was little better.
From St. Paul a railway runs westward to St.

12 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Anthony, six miles distant — the commencement of
the Great Pacific Railroad, projected to run across to
California, and already laid out far on to the plains.
From St. Anthony a " stage " wagon runs through
the out-settlements of Minnesota as far as Georgetown,
on the Red River. There we expected to find a
steamer which runs fortnightly to Fort Garry, in the
Red River Settlement. The " stage," a mere covered
spring- wagon, was crowded and heavily laden. Inside
were eight full-grown passengers and four children ;
outside six, in addition to the driver ; on the roof an
enormous quantity of luggage ; and on the top of all
were chained two huge dogs — a bloodhound and New
foundland — belonging to Treemiss. Milton and Tree
miss were fortunate enough to secure outside seats,
where, although cramped and uncomfortable, they could
still breathe the free air of heaven ; but Cheadle was
one of the unfortunate " insides," and suffered tortures
during the first day's journey. The day was fright
fully hot, and the passengers were packed so tightly,
that it was only by the consent and assistance of his
next neighbour that he could free an arm to wipe the
perspiration from his agonised countenance. Mosqui
toes swarmed and feasted with impunity on the help
less crowd, irritating the four wretched babies into an
incessant squalling, which the persevering singing of
their German mothers about Fatherland was quite in
effectual to assuage. Two female German Yankees
kept up an incessant clack, "guessing" that the
" Young Napoleon" would soon wipe out Jeff. Davis;
in which opinion two male friends of the same race

OUR DOG ROVER. 13
perfectly agreed. The dogs kept tumbling off their
slippery perch, and hung dangling by their chains at
either side, half strangled, until hauled back again
with the help of a " leg up " from the people inside.
This seventy mile drive to St. Cloud, where we stayed
the first night, was the most disagreeable experience
we had. There six of the passengers left us, but the
two German women, with the four babies they owned
between them, still remained. The babies were much
more irritable than ever the next day, and their limbs
and faces, red and swollen from the effects of mosquito
bites, showed what good cause they had for their con
stant wailings.
The country rapidly became more open and level
— a succession of prairies, dotted with copses of wild
poplar and scrub oak. The land appeared exceedingly
fertile, and the horses and draught oxen most
astonishingly fat. Sixty-five miles of similar country
brought us, on the second night after leaving St.
Paul, to the little settlement of Sauk Centre. As it
still wanted half an hour to sundown when we
arrived, we took our guns and strolled down to some
marshes close at hand in search of ducks, but were
obliged to return empty-handed, for although we shot
several we could not get them out of the water with
out a dog, the mosquitoes being so rampant, that
none of us felt inclined to strip and go in for them.
We were very much disappointed, for we had set our
hearts on having some for supper, as a relief to the
eternal salt pork of wayside houses in the far West.
On our return to the house where we were staying,

14 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
we bewailed our ill-luck to our host, who remarked
that had he known we were going out shooting, he
would have lent us his own dog, a capital retriever.
He introduced us forthwith to "Rover," a dapper-
looking, smooth-haired dog, in colour and make like a
black and tan terrier, but the size of a beagle. When
it is known from the sequel of this history how im
portant a person Rover became, how faithfully he
served us, how many meals he provided for us, and
the endless amusements his various accomplishments
afforded both to ourselves and the Indians we met
with, we shall perhaps be forgiven for describing
him with such particularity. Amongst our Indian
friends he became as much beloved as he was hated
by their dogs. These wolf-like animals he soon
taught to fear and respect him by his courageous and
dignified conduct ; for although small of stature, he
possessed indomitable pluck, and had a method of
fighting quite opposed to their ideas and experience.
Their manner was to show their teeth, rush in and
snap, and then retreat ; while he went in and grappled
with his adversary in so determined a manner, that
the biggest of them invariably turned tail before his
vigorous onset. Yet Rover was by no means a quarrel
some dog. He walked about amongst the snarling
curs with tail erect, as if not noticing their presence ;
and probably to this fearless demeanour he owed much
of his immunity from attack. He appeared so exactly
suited for the work we required, and so gained our
hearts by his cleverness and docility, that next morn
ing we made an offer of twenty-five dollars for him.

MASSACRES BY THE SIOUX. 15
The man hesitated, said he was very unwilling to
part with him, and, indeed, he thought his wife and
sister would not hear of it. If, however, they could
be brought to consent, he thought he could not afford
to refuse so good an offer, for he was very short of
money. He went out to sound the two women on the
subject, and they presently rushed into the room ; one
of them caught up Rover in her arms, and, both burst
ing into floods of tears, vehemently declared nothing
would induce them to part with their favourite. We
were fairly vanquished by such a scene, and slunk
away, feeling quite guilty at having proposed to
deprive these poor lonely women of one of the few
creatures they had to lavish their wealth of feminine
affection upon.
As we were on the point of starting, however, the
man came up, leading poor Rover by a string, and
begged us to take him, as he had at last persuaded
the women to let him go. We demurred, but he
urged it so strongly that we at length swallowed our
scruples, and paid the money. As we drove off, the
man said good-bye to him, as if parting with his
dearest friend, and gave us many injunctions to " be
kind to the little fellow." This we most solemnly
promised to do, and it is almost needless to state,
we faithfully kept our word.
A fortnight afterwards these kindly people — in
common with nearly all the whites in that part of
Minnesota- — suffered a horrible death at the hands of
the invading Sioux. This fearful massacre, accom-

16 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
panied as it was by all the brutalities of savage
warfare, was certainly accounted for, if not excused,.
or even justified, by the great provocation they had
received. The carelessness and injustice of the
American Government, and the atrocities committed
by the troops sent out for the protection of the
frontier, exasperated the native tribes beyond control.
Several thousand Indians — men, women, and children
— assembled at Forts Snelling and Abercrombie, at
a time appointed by the Government themselves, to
receive the yearly subsidy guaranteed to them in pay
ment for lands ceded to the United States. Year
after year, either through the neglect of the officials
at Washington, or the carelessness or dishonesty of
their agents, the Indians were detained there for
weeks, waiting to receive what was due to them.
Able to bring but scanty provision with them —
enough only for a few days — and far removed from
the buffalo, their only means of subsistence, they
were kept there in 1862 for nearly six weeks in
fruitless expectation. Can it be a matter of sur
prise that, having been treated year by year in
the same contemptuous manner, starving and desti
tute, the Sioux should have risen to avenge them
selves on a race hated by all the Indians of the
West? Unconscious of the dangers gathering round, and
little suspecting the dreadful scenes so shortly to be
enacted in this region, we drove merrily along in
the stage. As we went farther west, the prairies
became more extensive, timber more scarce, and

GEORGETOWN. 17
human habitations more rare. Prairie chickens and
ducks were plentiful along the road, and the driver
obligingly pulled up to allow us to have a shot
whenever a chance occurred. On the third day we
struck Red River, and stayed the night at Fort Aber
crombie; and the following day, the 18th of July,
arrived at Georgetown. The stage did not run
beyond this point, and the steamer, by which we
intended to proceed to Fort Garry, was not expected
to come in for several days, so that we had every
prospect of seeing more of Georgetown than we
cared for.

CHAPTER II.
Georgetown — Minnesota Volunteers — The Successful Hunters — An
Indian Hag — Resolve to go to Fort Garry in Canoes — Rumours
of a Sioux Outbreak— The Half-breeds refuse to Accompany us —
Prepare to Start Alone — Our Canoes and Equipment — A Sioux
War Party— The Half-breed's Story— Down Red River — Strange
Sights and Sounds — Our First Night Out — Effects of the Sun and
Mosquitoes — Milton Disabled — Monotony of the Scenery — Leaky
Canoes — Travelling by Night — The " Oven" Camp — Hunting
Geese in Canoes — Meet the Steamer — Milton's Narrow Escape —
Treemiss and Cheadle follow Suit — Carried Down the Rapids —
Vain Attempts to Ascend — A Hard Struggle — On Board at last
— Start once more — Delays — Try a Night Voyage Again — The
" Riband Storm" — " In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain" —
Fearful Phenomena — Our Miserable Plight — No Escape — Steer
ing in Utter Darkness — Snags and Rocks — A Long Night's
Watching — No Fire — A Drying Day — Another Terrible Storm —
And Another — Camp of Disasters — Leave it at last — Marks of the
Fury of the Storms — Provisions at an End — Fishing for Gold-
Eyes — A Day's Fast — Slaughter of Wild-Fowl — Our Voracity —
A Pleasant Awakening — Caught up by the Steamer — Pembina
— Fort Garry — La Ronde — We go under Canvas.
The little settlement of Georgetown is placed under
cover of the belt of timber which clothes the banks of
the river, while to the south and east endless prairie
stretches away to the horizon. The place is merely
a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, round
which a few straggling settlers have established them
selves. A company of Minnesota Volunteers was
stationed here for the protection of the settlement
against the Sioux. They were principally Irish or

AN INDIAN HAG. 19
German Yankees ; i.e., emigrants, out-Heroding Herod
in Yankeeism, yet betraying their origin plainly
enough. These heroes, slovenly and unsoldier-like,
yet full of swagger and braggadocio now, when the
Sioux advanced to the attack on Fort Abercrombie, a
few weeks afterwards, took refuge under beds, and
hid in holes and corners, from whence they had
to be dragged by their officers, who drew them out
to face the enemy by putting revolvers to their
heads. On the day of our arrival two half-breeds came
in from a hunting expedition in which they had been
very successful. They had found a band of twenty
wapiti, out of which they killed four, desisting, accord
ing to their own account, from shooting more from
a reluctance to waste life and provision ! — a piece of
consideration perfectly incomprehensible in a half-
breed or Indian. We went down to their camp by
the river, where they were living in an Indian
"lodge," or tent of skins stretched over a cone of
poles. Squatted in front of it, engaged in cutting
the meat for drying, was the most hideous old hag
ever seen. Lean, dried-up, and withered, her parch
ment skin was seamed and wrinkled into folds and
deep furrows, her eyes were bleared and blinking,
and her long, iron-grey hair, matted and unkempt,
hung over her shoulders. She kept constantly
muttering, and showing her toothless gums, as she
clawed the flesh before her with long, bony, unwashed
fingers, breaking out occasionally into wild, angry
exclamations, as she struck at the skeleton dogs which
c 2

20 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
attempted to steal some of the delicate morsels strewn
around. Finding upon inquiry that, in consequence of the
lowness of the water, it was very uncertain when the
steamer would arrive, if she ever reached Georgetown
at all, we decided to make the journey to Fort Garry
in canoes. The distance is above five hundred miles
by the river, which runs through a wild and unsettled
country, inhabited only by wandering tribes of Sioux,
Chippeways, and Assiniboines. After much bargain
ing, we managed to obtain two birch-bark canoes from
some half-breeds. One of them was full of bullet
holes, having been formerly the property of some
Assiniboines, who were waylaid by a war party of
Sioux whilst, descending the river the previous
summer, and mercilessly shot down from the bank,
where their enemies lay in ambush. The other was
battered and leaky, and both required a great deal of
patching and caulking before they were rendered
anything like water-tight. We endeavoured to engage
a guide, half-breed or Indian, but none would go with
us. The truth was that rumours were afloat of the
intended outbreak of the Sioux, and these cowards
were afraid. One man, indeed — a tall, savage-looking
Iroquois, just recovering from the effects of a week's
debauch on corn whisky — expressed his readiness to go
with us, but his demands were so exorbitant, that we
refused them at once. We offered him one-half what
he had asked, and he went off to consult his squaw,
promising to give us an answer next day.
We did not take very large supplies of provisions

RUMOURS OF WAR. 21
with us, as we expected not to be more than eight or
ten days on our voyage, and knew that we should
meet with plenty of ducks along the river. We
therefore contented ourselves with twenty pounds of
flour, and the same of pemmican, with about half as
much salt pork, some grease, tinder, and matches, a
small quantity of tea, salt, and tobacco, and plenty of
ammunition. A tin kettle and frying-pan, some
blankets and a waterproof sheet, a small axe, and a
gun and hunting-knife apiece, made up the rest of
our equipment.
Whilst we were completing our preparations,
another half-breed came in, in a great state of excite
ment, with the news that a war party of Sioux were
lurking in the neighbourhood. He had been out
looking for elk, when he suddenly observed several
Indians skulking in the brushwood ; from their paint
and equipment he knew them to be Sioux on the war
path. They did not appear to have perceived him,
and he turned and fled, escaping to the settlement
unpursued. We did not place much reliance on his
story, or the various reports we had heard, and set out
the next day alone. How fearfully true these rumours
of the hostility of the Sioux, which we treated so
lightly at the time, turned out to be, is already known
to the reader. As we got ready to start, the Iroquois
sat on the bank, smoking sullenly, and showing
neither by word nor sign any intention of accepting
our offer of the previous day. Milton and Rover
occupied the smaller canoe, while Treemiss and Cheadle
navigated the larger one. At first we experienced

22 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
some little difficulty in steering, and were rather
awkward in the management of a paddle. A birch-
bark canoe sits so lightly on the water, that a puff
of wind drives it about like a walnut-shell; and
with the wind dead ahead, paddling is very slow
and laborious. But we got on famously after a
short time, Milton being an old hand at the work,
and the others accustomed to light and crank craft on
the Isis and the Cam. We glided along pleasantly
enough, lazily paddling or floating quietly down the
sluggish stream. The day was hot and bright, and
we courted the grateful shade of the trees which
overhung the bank on either side. The stillness of
the woods was broken by the dip of our paddles, the
occasional splash of a fish, or the cry of various
birds. The squirrel played and chirruped among
the branches of the trees, the spotted woodpecker
tapped on the hollow trunk, while, perched high on
the topmost bough of some withered giant of the
forest, the eagle and the hawk uttered their harsh and
discordant screams. Here and there along the banks
swarms of black and golden orioles clustered on the
bushes, the gaily-plumed kingfisher flitted past, ducks
and geese floated on the water, and the long-tailed
American pigeon darted like an arrow high over the
tree-tops. As night approached, a hundred owls
hooted round us ; the whip-poor-will startled us with
its rapid, reiterated call; and the loon — the most
melancholy of birds — sent forth her wild lamenta
tions from some adjoining lake. Thoroughly did
we enjoy these wild scenes and sounds, and the

OUR FIRST CAMP. 23
strange sensation of freedom and independence which
possessed us.
Having shot as many ducks as we required, we
put ashore at sundown, and drawing our canoes out
of the water into the bushes which fringed the river-
bank, safe from the eye of any wandering or hostile
Indian, we encamped for the night on the edge of the
prairie. It became quite dark before we had half
completed our preparations, and we were dreadfully
bothered, in our raw inexperience, to find dry wood for
the fire, and do the cooking. However, we managed
at last to pluck and split open the ducks into " spread-
eagles," roasting them on sticks, Indian fashion, and
these, with some tea and "dampers," or cakes of
unleavened bread, furnished a capital meal. We then
turned into our blankets, sub Jove — for we had no
tent ; — but the tales we had heard of prowling Sioux
produced some effect, and a half- wakeful watchfulness
replaced our usual sound slumbers.
We often recalled afterwards how one or other of
us suddenly sat up in bed and peered into the dark
ness at any unusual sound, or got up to investigate
the cause of the creakings and rustlings frequently
heard in the forest at night, but which might have
betrayed the stealthy approach of an Indian enemy.
Mosquitoes swarmed and added to our restlessness.
In the morning we all three presented an abnormal
appearance, Milton's arms being tremendously blis
tered, red, and swollen, from paddling with them
bare in the scorching sun ; and Treemiss and Cheadle
exhibiting faces it was impossible to recognise, so

24 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
wofully were they changed by the swelling of mos
quito bites.
Milton was quite unable to use a paddle for several
days, and his canoe was towed along by Treemiss and
Cheadle. This, of course, delayed us considerably,
and the delight we had experienced during the first
few days' journey gradually gave place to a desire for
change. Red River, flowing almost entirely through prairie
land, has hollowed out for itself a deep channel in the
level plains, the sloping sides of which are covered
with timber almost to the water's edge. The un
varying sameness of the river, and the limited pros
pect shut in by rising banks on either side, gave a
monotony to our daily journey ; and the routine of
cooking, chopping, loading and unloading canoes,
paddling, and shooting, amusing enough at first, began
to grow rather tiresome.
The continual leaking of our rickety canoes
obliged us to pull up so frequently to empty them, and
often spend hours in attempting to stop the seams,
that we made very slow progress towards completing
the five hundred miles before us. We therefore
thoroughly overhauled them, and having succeeded in
making them tolerably water-tight, resolved to make
an extra stage, and travel all night. The weather was
beautifully fine, and, although there was no moon, we
were able to steer well enough by the clear starlight.
The night seemed to pass very slowly, and we
nodded wearily over our paddles before the first appear
ance of daylight gave us an excuse for landing, which

"the oven." 25
we did at the first practicable place. The banks were
knee-deep in mud, but we were too tired and sleepy to
search further, and carried our things to drier ground
higher up, where a land-slip from a steep cliff had
formed a small level space a few yards square. The
face of the cliff was semicircular, and its aspect due
south; not a breath of air was stirring, and as we slept
with nothing to shade us from the fiery rays of the
mid-day sun, we awoke half baked. Some ducks
which we had killed the evening before were already
stinking and half putrid, and had to be thrown away
as unfit for food. We found the position unbearable,
and, reluctantly re-loading our canoes, took to the river
again, and paddled languidly along until evening.
This camp, which we called " The Oven," was by far
the warmest place we ever found, with the exception
of the town of Acapulco, in Mexico, which stands in
a very similar situation.
A week after we left Georgetown our provisions
fell short, for the pemmican proved worthless, and fell
to the lot of Rover, and we supplied ourselves en
tirely by shootmg the wild-fowl, which were tolerably
plentiful. The young geese, although almost full-
grown and feathered, were not yet able to fly, but
afforded capital sport. When hotly pursued they
dived as we came near in the canoes, and, if too hardly
pushed, took to the shore. This was generally a fatal
mistake ; Milton immediately landed with Rover, who
quickly discovered them lying with merely their heads
hidden in the grass or bushes, and they were then
captured.

26 THE north-west passage by land.
When engaged in this exciting amusement one
day, Milton went ahead down stream in chase of a
wounded bird, while Treemiss and Cheadle remained
behind to look after some others which had taken to
the land. The former was paddling away merrily after
his prey, when, at a sudden turn of the river, he came
upon the steamer warping up a shallow rapid. Eager
to get on board and taste the good things we had lately
lacked, he swept down the current alongside the over
hanging deck of the steamer. The stream was rough
and very strong, and its force was increased by the
effect of the stern- wheel of the steamer in rapid motion
in the narrow channel. The canoe was drawn under
the projecting deck, but Milton clung tightly to it, and
the friendly hands of some of the crew seized and
hauled him and his canoe safely on board. The others
following shortly afterwards, and observing the steamer
in like manner, were equally delighted, and dashed
away down stream in order to get on board as quickly
as possible. The stern-wheel was now stopped, but as they
neared the side it was suddenly put in motion again,
and the canoe carried at a fearful pace past the side of
the boat, sucked in by the whirlpool of the wheel. By
the most frantic exertions the two saved themselves
from being drawn under, but were borne down the
rapid about a quarter of a mile. Rover attempting a
similar feat, was carried down after them, struggling
vainly against the powerful current. Great was the
wrath of Cheadle and Treemiss against the captain for
the trick he had served them, and they squabbled

IN THE RAPIDS. 27
no little with each other also, as they vainly strove to
re-ascend the rapid. Three times they made the
attempt, but were as often swept back, and had to com
mence afresh. By paddKng with all their might they
succeeded in getting within a hundred yards of the
steamer ; but at this point, where the stream narrowed
and shot with double force round a sharp turn in
the channel, the head of the canoe was swept round in
spite of all their efforts, and down they went again.
When they were on the eve of giving up in despair,
the other canoe appeared darting down towards them,
manned by two men whose masterly use of the paddle
proclaimed them to be old voyagers. Coming along
side, one of them exchanged places with Cheadle, and
thus, each having a skilful assistant, by dint of hug
ging the bank, and warily avoiding the strength of the
current, they easily reached the critical point for the
fourth time. Here again was a fierce struggle. Swept
back repeatedly for a few yards, but returning instantly
to the attack, they at last gained the side of the steamer.
The captain kindly stopped half an hour to allow us to
have a good dinner. Finding the steamer would pro
bably be a week before she returned, we obtained a
fresh stock of flour and salt pork, and went on our
way again. Presently we found Rover, who had got
to land a long way down the stream, and took him on
board again.
After a few days' slow and monotonous voyaging,
being again frequently obliged to stop in order to re
pair our leaky craft, we decided to try anight journey
once more. The night was clear and starlight, but in

28 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the course of an hour or two ominous clouds began to
roll up from the west, and the darkness increased.
We went on, however, hoping that there would be
no storm. But before long, suddenly, as it seemed to
us, the darkness became complete ; then, without pre
vious warning, a dazzling flash of lightning lit up for
a moment the wild scene around us, and almost instan
taneously a tremendous clap of thunder, an explosion
like the bursting of a magazine, caused us to stop
paddling, and sit silent and appalled. A fierce blast of
wind swept over the river, snapping great trees like
twigs on every side ; the rain poured down in floods,
and soaked us through and through ; flash followed
flash in quick succession, with its accompanying roar
of thunder ; whilst in the intervals between, a dim,
flickering light, faint and blue, like the flame of a
spirit lamp, or the " Will-o'-the-wisp," hovered over
the surface of the water, but failed to light up the
dense blackness of the night. With this came an
ominous hissing, like the blast of a steam pipe vary
ing with the wind, now sounding near as the flame
approached, now more distant as it wandered away.
We were in the very focus of the storm ; the whole
air was charged with electricity, and the changing
currents of the electric fluid, or the shifting winds,
lifted and played with our hair in passing. The smell
of ozone was so pungent that it fairly made us snort
again, and forced itself on our notice amongst the
other more fearful phenomena of the storm. We
made an attempt to land at once, but the darkness
was so intense that we could not see to avoid the

THE "RIBAND STORM." 29
snags and fallen timber which beset the steep, slippery
bank ; and the force of the stream bumped us against
them in a manner which warned us to desist, if we
would avoid being swamped or knocking holes in the
paper sides of our frail craft. We had little chance
of escape in that case, for the river was deep, and it
would be almost impossible to clamber up the slippery
face of the bank, even if we succeeded in finding it,
through the utter darkness in which we were enveloped.
There was nothing else for it but to face it out till
daylight, and we therefore fastened the two canoes
together, and again gave ourselves up to the fury of
the storm. We had some difficulty in bringing the
two canoes alongside, but by calling out to one
another, and by the momentary glimpses obtained
during the flashes of lightning, we at last effected it.
Treemiss, crouching in the bows, kept a sharp look
out, while we, seated in the stern, steered by his
direction. As each flash illuminated the river before
us for an instant, he was able to discern the rocks
and snags ahead, and a vigorous stroke of our paddles
carried us clear during the interval of darkness.
After a short period of blind suspense, the next
flash showed us that we had avoided one danger to
discover another a few yards in front. Hour after
hour passed by, but the storm raged as furiously, and
the rain came down as fast as ever. We looked
anxiously for the first gleam of daylight, but the
night seemed as if it would never come to an end.
The canoes were gradually filling with water, which
had crept up nearly to our waists, and the gunwales

30 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
were barely above the surface. It became very doubt
ful whether they would float till daybreak.
The night air was raw and cold, and as we sat in
our involuntary hip-bath, with the rain beating upon
us, we shivered from head to foot ; our teeth chattered,
and our hands became so benumbed that we could
scarcely grasp the paddles. But we dared not take a
moment's rest from our exciting work, in watching
and steering clear of the snags and rocks, although we
were almost tempted to give up, and resign ourselves
to chance. Never will any of us forget the misery of that
night, or the intense feeling of relief we experienced
when we first observed rather a lessening of the
darkness than any positive appearance of light.
Shortly before this, the storm began sensibly to abate ;
but the rain poured down as fast as ever when we
hastily landed in the grey morning on a muddy bank,
the first practicable place we came to. Drawing our
canoes high on shore, that they might not be swept
off by the rising flood, we wrapped ourselves in our
dripping blankets, and, utterly weary and worn out,
slept long and soundly. (*)
(') Mr. Ross, the author of the " Fur Hunters of the Far West," in
his " History of the Red River Settlement," makes mention of a storm
very similar to the one described above. In that instance the party
were camping out on the plains ; three tents were struck by the
lightning, and two men, a woman, and two children killed. Several
horses and dogs were also killed. The rain fell in such torrents,
that in the course of a few minutes the flood of water was so
great that two little children narrowly escaped being drowned. A
summer rarely passes in Red River without the loss of several lives
by lightning.

CAMP OF DISASTERS. 31
When we awoke, the sun was already high,
shining brightly, and undimmed by a single cloud,
and our blankets were already half dry. We there
fore turned out, spread our things on the bushes, and
made an attempt to light a flre. All our matches
and tinder were wet, and we wasted a long time
in fruitless endeavours to get a light by firing pieces
of dried rag out of a gun. Whilst we were thus
engaged, another adventurer appeared, coming down
the river in a " dug-out," or small canoe hollowed out
of a log. We called out to him as he passed, and
he came ashore, and supplied us with some dry
matches. He had camped in a sheltered place before
sundown, on the preceding evening, and made every
thing secure from the rain before the storm came on.
We soon had a roaring fire, and spent the rest of the
day in drying our property and patching our canoes,
which we did caulk most effectually this time, by
plastering strips of our pocket-handkerchiefs over the
seams with pine-gum. But our misfortunes were yet
far from an end. We broke the axe and the handle
of the frying-pan, and were driven to cut our fire
wood with our hunting-knives, and manipulate the
cooking utensil by means of a cleft stick.
Our expectations of having a good night's rest
were disappointed. About two hours before daylight
we were awakened by the rumbling of distant thunder,
and immediately jumped up and made everything as
secure as possible. Before very long, a storm almost
as terrible as the one of the night before burst over
us. Our waterproof sheets were too small to keep out

32 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the deluge of water which flooded the ground, and
rushed into our blankets. But we managed to keep
our matches dry, and lighted a fire when the rain
ceased about noon. Nearly everything we had was
soaked again, and we had to spend the rest of the
day in drying clothes and blankets as before.
On the third day after our arrival in this camp of
disasters, just as we were nearly ready to start, we
were again visited by a terrible thunder-storm, and
once more reduced to our former wretched plight.
Again we set to work to wring our trousers, shirts,
and blankets, and clean our guns, sulkily enough,
almost despairing of ever getting away from the place
where we had encountered so many troubles.
But the fourth day brought no thunder-storm, nor
did we experience any bad weather for the rest of the
voyage. We paddled joyfully away from our dismal camp,
and along the river-side saw numerous marks of the
fury of the storm ; great trees blown down, or trunks
snapped short off, others torn and splintered by light
ning. The storm had evidently been what is called a
" riband storm," which had followed the course of the
river pretty closely. The riband storm passes over
only a narrow line, but within these limits is ex
ceedingly violent and destructive.
We had by this time finished all the provisions we
brought with us, and lived for some days on ducks
and fish. A large pike, of some ten or twelve pounds,
served us for a couple of days, and we occasionally
caught a quantity of gold-eyes, a fish resembling the

NOTHING TO EAT. 33
dace. Having unfortunately broken our last hook, we
caught them by the contrivance of two needles fastened
together by passing the line through the eyes, and
threading them head first through the bait. One
night found us with nothing but a couple of gold-eyes
for supper, and we were roused very early next morn
ing by the gnawing of our stomachs. We paddled
nearly the whole day in the hot sun, languid and
weary, and most fearfully hungry. Neither ducks
nor geese were to be seen, and the gold-eyes resisted
all our allurements. We knew that we must be
at least 150 miles from our journey's end, and
our only hope of escaping semi-starvation seemed to
be the speedy arrival of the steamer. For be it re
membered, that for the whole distance of 450 miles
between Georgetown and Pembina, sixty miles above
Fort Garry, there are no inhabitants except chance
parties of Indians. We were sorely tempted to stop
and rest during the heat of the day, but were urged
on by the hope of finding something edible before
nightfall. Our perseverance was duly rewarded, for shortly
before sundown we came upon a flock of geese, and a
most exciting chase ensued. Faintness and languor
were forgotten, and we paddled furiously after them,
encouraged by. the prospect of a substantial supper.
We killed three geese, and soon after met with a
number of ducks, out of which we shot seven. Before
we could find a place at which to camp, we killed two
more geese, and were well supplied for a couple of days.
We speedily lit a fire, plucked and spitted our game,

34 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and before they were half cooked, devoured them, far
more greedily than if they had been canvass-backs at
Delmonico's, or the Maison Doree. The total con
sumption at this memorable meal consisted of two
geese and four ducks ; but then, as a Yankee would
express it, they were geese and ducks " straight " —
i.e., without anything else whatever. We slept very
soundly and happily that night, and at daybreak were
awakened by the puffing of the steamer ; and running
to the edge of the* river, there, sure enough, was the
International. The captain had already caught sight
of us, and stopped alongside ; and in a few minutes
we were on board, and engaged in discussing what
seemed to us a most delicious meal of salt pork, bread,
and molasses. We had been sixteen days since leaving
Georgetown, and were not sorry that our canoeing was
over. On the following day we reached Pembina, a
half-breed settlement on the boundary-line between
British and American territory ; and the next, being
the 7th of August, arrived at Fort Garry. Directly
we came to anchor opposite the Fort, a number of
people came on board, principally half-breeds, and
amongst them La Ronde, who had been out with
Milton on his previous visit to the plains. He in
dulged in the most extravagant demonstrations of
delight at seeing him again, and expressed his readi
ness to go with him to the end of the world, if
required. He informed us that our arrival was expected.
Two men, who had left Georgetown after our departure
from that place, had arrived at Fort Garry some days

GO UNDER CANVASS. 35
before by land, and from the unusually long time we
had been out, serious apprehensions were entertained
for our safety. Indeed, La Ronde had made prepara
tions to start immediately in search of us, in case we
did not arrive by the steamer. We pitched our tent
near his house, in preference to the unsatisfactory ac
commodation of the so-called hotel, and had no
cause to regret having at once commenced life under
canvass.

d 2

CHAPTER III.
Fort Garry — Origin of the Red River Settlement — The First Settlers
— Their Sufferings — The North- Westers — The Grasshoppers —
The Blackbirds— The Flood— The Colony in 1862— King Company
— Farming at Red River — Fertility of the Soil— Isolated Position
of the Colony — Obstructive Policy of the Company — Their Just
Dealing and Kindness to the Indians — Necessity for a proper
Colonial Government — Value of the Country — French Canadians
and Half-breeds — Their Idleness and Frivolity — Hunters and
Voyageurs — Extraordinary Endurance — The English and Scotch
Settlers — The Spring and Fall Hunt — Our Life at Fort Garry —
Too late to Cross the Mountains before Winter — Our Plans — Men
— Horses — Bucephalus — Our Equipment — Leave Fort Garry —
The " Noce" — La Ronde's Last Carouse — Delightful Travelling —
A Night Alarm — Vital Deserts — Fort Ellice — Delays — Making
Pemmican — Its Value to the Traveller — Swarms of Wild-Fowl —
Good Shooting — The Indian Summer — A Salt Lake Country —
Search for Water — A Horse's Instinct — South Saskatchewan —
Arrive at Carlton.

Fort Garry — by which we mean the building itself,
for the name of the Fort is frequently used for the
settlement generally — is situated on the north bank of
the Assiniboine river, a few hundred yards above its
junction with Red River. It consists of a square
enclosure of high stone walls, flanked at each angle by
round towers. Within this are several substantial
wooden buildings — the Governor's residence, the gaol,
and the storehouses for the Company's furs and goods.
The shop, where articles of every description are sold,
is thronged from morning till night by a crowd of

RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. 37
settlers and half-breeds, who meet there to gossip and
treat each other to rum and brandy, as well as to
make their purchases.
The Red River settlement extends beyond Fort
Garry for about twenty miles to the northward along
the banks of Red River, and about fifty to the
westward along its tributary, the Assiniboine. The
wealthier inhabitants live in large, well-built wooden
houses, and the poorer half-breeds in rough log huts,
or even Indian "lodges." There are several Pro
testant churches, a Romish cathedral and nunnery, and
schools of various denominations. The neighbouring
country is principally open, level prairie, the timber
being confined, with a few exceptions, to the banks
of the streams. The settlement dates from the year
1811, when the Earl of Selkirk purchased from the
Hudson's Bay Company and the Cree and Sauteux
Indians a large tract of land stretching along both
banks of the Red River and the Assiniboine. The
country was at that time inhabited only by wandering
tribes of Indians, and visited occasionally by the
employes of the North- West and Hudson's Bay Com
panies, who had trading posts in the neighbourhood.
Vast herds of buffalo, now driven far to the west of
Red River, then ranged over its prairies, and fre
quented the rich feeding grounds of the present
State of Minnesota, as far as the Missisippi.
The first band of emigrants — Scotch families, sent
out under the auspices of Lord Selkirk — reached the
colony in 1812, and were reinforced by subsequent
detachments until the year 1815. Never did the

38 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
pioneers of any new country suffer greater hardships
and discouragements than were experienced by these
unfortunate people during the first seven or eight
years after their arrival. They were attacked by the
Canadians and half-breeds in the employ of the
North- West Fur Company, who looked on them with
jealousy, as, proteges of their rivals of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and were compelled to flee to Pembina.
Here they spent the winter living on the charity of
the Indians and half-breeds, and suffering the greatest
hardships from the scarcity of provisions, and want of
proper protection against the severity of the climate.
When they returned to the colony they were again
attacked by their persevering enemies, the North-
Westers, many of their number shot down, the
rest driven a second time into exile, and their homes
pillaged or burnt. They went back a third time, but
their attempts to live by the cultivation of the soil
were defeated by various misfortunes. Crops pro
mising to repay them a hundred-fold were devoured
by swarms of grasshoppers, which appeared two years
in succession, and all they were able to save was a
small quantity of seed collected by the women in their
aprons. These insects came in such armies that they lay
in heaps on the ground ; fires lighted out of doors were
speedily extinguished by them, the earth stank, and
the waters were polluted with the mass of decom
posing bodies. The grasshoppers disappeared, and
have not since re-visited the colony ; but they were
succeeded by myriads of blackbirds, which made
terrible havoc with the grain. It was not until the

KING COMPANY. 39
year 1821, nine years after the first establishment of
the colony, that these unfortunate settlers succeeded
in reaping to any extent the fruits of their labours.
The North- West Company was at that time amal
gamated with the Hudson's Bay Company, when
the colonists were left in peace, and have steadily,
though slowly, progressed up to the present time.
The only misfortune which has since occurred
to them was a disastrous flood, which swept away
horses, cattle, and corn-stacks, as well as several of the
inhabitants. (*)
In 1862 we found them a very heterogeneous com
munity of about eight thousand souls — Englishmen,
Irishmen, Scotchmen, English Canadians, French
Canadians, Americans, English half-breeds, Canadian
half-breeds, and Indians. Nearly the whole population,
with the exception of a few storekeepers and free
traders, live by the Company, and the Company is
king. The Company makes the laws, buys the pro
duce of the chase and of the farm, supplying in return
the other necessaries and the luxuries of life.
The farmers of Red River are wealthy in flocks,
and herds, and grain, more than sufficient for their own
wants, and live in comparative comfort. The soil is so
fertile, that wheat is raised year after year on the same
land, and yields fifty and sixty bushels to the acre,
without any manure being required. The pasturage
(:) About the year 1835 the colony passed into the possession of
the Hudson's Bay Company, by purchase from Lord Selkirk's execu
tors. This, however, made but little change in its condition, the
government having been exercised by the Company, for Lord Selkirk
and his executors, from the first foundation of the colony.

40 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
is of the finest quality, and unlimited in extent. The
countless herds of buffalo which the land has supported
are sufficient evidence of this. But, shut out in this
distant corner of the earth from any communication
with the rest of the world — except an uncertain one
with the young State of Minnesota by steamer during
the summer, and with England by the Company's ship
which brings stores to York Factory, in Hudson's
Bay, once a year — the farmers find no market for
their produce.
It is the interest and policy of the Company to
discourage emigration, and keep the country as one
vast preserve for fur-bearing animals. The colony has
therefore been recruited almost entirely from their own
servants, who settle at Fort Garry on their retirement
from the service. It is also their interest to prevent
any trading except through themselves. In 1849
they attempted to enforce their monopoly of the fur
trade, and four half-breeds were arrested for infringe
ment of the laws by buying furs from the Indians.
The half-breeds rose in arms, and a revolution was
imminent. The trial was not proceeded with, and
since that time they have been content to put every
obstacle in the way of free trade, by tabooing the
offender, and refusing to furnish him with anything
out of their stores. This obstructive policy keeps
up a continual ill-feeling amongst the independent
population of the settlement, who naturally enough
have little belief in the justice of laws framed, as they
imagine, for the protection of the Company rather than
for the general good.

THE LAST GREAT MONOPOLY. 41
The Hudson's Bay Company have, we believe,
exercised their almost absolute power well and justly,
in so far that they have administered with impartiality
the laws which they have made. They have gained
the affection and respect of the Indians by kindly
intercourse and just dealing. But the day of mono
polies has gone by, and it seems strange that the
governing power of this colony should still be left in
the hands of a trading company, whose interests are
opposed to its development. It is time the anomaly
should cease, and a proper colonial government be
established wh»se efforts would be directed to the
opening out of' a country so admirably adapted for
settlement. From Red River to the Rocky Mountains, along
the banks of the Assiniboine and the fertile belt of the
Saskatchewan, at least sixty millions of acres of the
richest soil lie ready for the farmer when he shall be
allowed to enter in and possess it. This glorious
country, capable of sustaining an enormous population,
lies utterly useless, except for the support of a few
Indians, and the enrichment of the shareholders of the
Last Great Monopoly.
Since the time of our visit the Company has
passed into other hands. The fact that the new
directors sent out Dr. Rae to survey a route for a
telegraph line through their territories into British
Columbia, redounds greatly to their credit, and induces
a hope that their policy will be more liberal than that
of their predecessors.
The stationary condition of the Red River

42 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
colony is not, however, to be entirely attributed
to the despotic rule of the Hudson's Bay Company,
but in some measure also to the incorrigible idleness
and want of thrift exhibited by the French Canadians,
and their relatives, the French half-breeds, who form
the largest section of the inhabitants. The latter, the
most numerous of the two, are also the most unreliable
and unprofitable members of society. Desultory, fickle,
mercurial, and passionately fond of gaiety and finery,
they have an utter distaste for all useful labour, and
rarely succeed in raising themselves into any permanent
position of comfort and independence.
They are so admirably delineated by Mr. Ross, in
his " History of the Red River Settlement," that we
shall be excused for quoting his description. He says,
"The Canadians and half-breeds are promiscuously
settled together, and live in much the same way.
They are not, properly speaking, farmers, hunters, or
fishermen, but rather compound the three occupa
tions together, and follow them in turn, as whim and
circumstances may dictate. They farm to-day, hunt
to-morrow, and fish the next day, without anything
like system, always at a nonplus, but never disconcerted.
They are great in adventuring, but small in performing,
and exceedingly plausible in their dealings. Still, they
are oftener useful to themselves than others, and get
through the world as best they can, without much
forethought or reflection. Taking them all in all, they
are a happy people." They spend much of their time
in singing, dancing, and gossiping from house to
house, getting drunk when the opportunity offers.

HALF-BREEDS. 43
They are a merry, light-hearted, obliging race, reck
lessly generous, hospitable, and extravagant. Dancing
goes on nearly every night throughout the winter,
and a wedding, or " noce" as it is called, is celebrated
by keeping open house, and relays of fiddlers are busily
employed playing for the dancers all through the night,
and often far on into the next day. By that time most
of the guests are incapacitated for saltatory exercise ;
for rum flows freely on these occasions, and when a
half-breed drinks he does it, as he says, comme ilfaut —
that is, until he obtains the desired happiness of com
plete intoxication. Vanity is another of their besetting
sins, and they will leave themselves and their families
without the common necessaries of life to become the
envied possessors of a handsome suit, a gun, a horse,
or a train of dogs, which may happen to attract their
fancy. Being intensely superstitious, and firm believers
in dreams, omens, and warnings, they are apt disciples
of the Romish faith. Completely under the influence
of the priests in most respects, and observing the out
ward forms of their religion with great regularity, they
are yet grossly immoral, often dishonest, and generally
not trustworthy.
But as hunters, guides, and voyageurs they are un
equalled. Of more powerful build, as a rule, than the
pure Indian, they combine his endurance and readiness
of resource with the greater muscular strength and
perseverance of the white man. Day after day, with
plenty of food, or none at all, whether pack on back,
trapping in the woods, treading out a path with snow-
shoes in the deep snow for the sleigh-dogs, or running

44 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
after them at a racing pace from morning to night,
when there is a well-beaten track, they will travel
fifty or sixty miles a day for a week together without
showing any sign of fatigue.
The other division of the inhabitants of the Red
River settlement, the English and Scotch, with the
better portion of their half-breed relations, form a
pleasing contrast to their French neighbours, being
thrifty, industrious, and many of them wealthy, in
their way. Some of the more Indian of the English
half-breeds are, indeed, little better than the Canadians,
but these seem to be the exception, for we met but
few who equalled the French half-breeds in idleness
and frivolity.
These different classes have each their own quarter
in the settlement. The English and Scotch inhabit
the west bank of Red River, north of the Assiniboine,
while the French Canadians dwell on the east bank
of Red River, and along the south bank of the Assini
boine. The Indian tribes who frequent Fort Garry
are the Sauteux and other branches of the great
Chippeway nation, and occasionally a few Crees, or
Assiniboines; the Sioux, the natural enemies of all the
former tribes, sometimes visit the colony in time of
peace. The two great events of the year at Red River are
the Spring and Fall Hunt. The buffalo still forms one
of the principal sources from which provisions are
obtained. Pemmican and dried meat, like bacon with
us, are staple articles of food in every establishment.
At these seasons the whole able-bodied half-breed

THE SPRING AND FALL HUNT. 45
population set out for the plains in a body, with their
horses and carts. Many of the farmers who do not
go themselves engage half-breeds to hunt for them.
These expeditions now assume very large proportions.
The number of hunters frequently exceeds 500, and
they are accompanied by the women and children,
to prepare the meat. The number of carts often
reaches 1,500 or 1,600. When the buffalo are found,
the horsemen are formed into line, and ride up as
close as possible before the herd takes flight at full
speed. Then the captain gives the word, and all
charge, as hard as horses can gallop, into the middle
of the herd. The fattest beasts are singled out and
shot down, and often more than 1,000 carcases strew
the ground.
We spent three weeks at Fort Garry very pleasantly.
The weather was beautifully bright and fine, without
a cloud in the sky, and although intensely hot, we
enjoyed our lazy life thoroughly for a time.
The Bishop, Dr. Anderson, showed us great kind
ness and hospitality, and Mr. M'Tavish, Governor of
" Assiniboia," as the district of Red River is called,
afforded us every assistance in fitting out our expe
dition. The only drawback to our comfort was the
presence of armies of mosquitoes and sand-flies, which
attacked us every night. In order to get any sleep, we
were compelled to smoke out our tent before turning
in. This we effected by cutting a hole in the ground
at one end, and lighting a small fire in the bottom,
which we covered up with sods and earth when it was
well alight. The fire generally continued to smoulder

46 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and smoke until morning, but it frequently acted so
effectually that we were awakened in the night by a
sense of suffocation, and were compelled to rush out
of the tent, to escape being stifled.
During our stay, Lord Dunmore, and a party of
officers of the Guards stationed at Montreal, arrived
on their way to hunt buffalo on the plains. Their
preparations were soon completed, and they started
before us for Fort Ellice, on the Assiniboine River.
We found, upon careful inquiry, that it was already
too late in the season to attempt crossing the moun
tains before winter. We therefore decided to travel
westward, to some convenient point on the river
Saskatchewan, and winter there, in readiness to go
forward across the mountains the following summer.
We also learnt that several parties of emigrants,
about 200 in all, chiefly Canadians, had passed
through in the early part of the summer, on their
way to British Columbia.
By the evening of the 22nd of August we had
completed our arrangements, ready to start on the
morrow. We had engaged four men — Louis La Ronde,
our head man and guide, Jean Baptiste Vital, Tous-
saint Voudrie, and Athanhaus Bruneau, all French
half-breeds. La Ronde had a great reputation as a
hunter and trapper, and was very proud of having been
out with Dr. Rae on some of his extraordinary journeys.
He was a fine, tall, well-built fellow, with a handsome
face and figure, and was reported to be quite irresistible
amongst the fair sex. Vital was a sinister-looking dog,
thick-set and bull-necked, surly and ill-conditioned

BUCEPHALUS. 47
He professed to have been out with Captain Palliser's
expedition, and was eternally boasting of his skill and
bravery in encounters with Indians, and the extraordi
nary number of grisly bears which he had slain.
Voudrie was a little, dark-complexioned fellow, very
loquacious and plausible, but making no pretensions
to any great knowledge of hunting or travelling.
Bruneau was the son of a Red River magistrate — a
tall, good-looking fellow, but very simple, and the butt
of all the others. Our conversation with the men was
carried on in Canadian French, for their knowledge
of English was very imperfect. Amongst themselves
they used a mixed patois of French and Indian, for a
long time perfectly incomprehensible to us.
We succeeded in obtaining very good saddle horses.
Treemiss bought the champion runner of the settle
ment, and Milton had an old favourite of his and
La Ronde's, the hero of a thousand runs. Cheadle's
horse was, however, the most extraordinary-looking
animal in the whole cavalcade. Bucephalus stood
about fifteen hands, was straight in the shoulder, one
of his legs was malformed and crooked, his head was
very large, and his tail very long. On the road he
was continually stumbling; and when Cheadle rode
him about the settlement, he was at first nearly
pitched over every gate and fence he came to. When
the horse caught sight of one, he made for it, and
suddenly stopping, stood stock-still, as a hint for his
rider to dismount and tie him up — an illustration of
the gossiping habits of his late owner. But he turned
out the most useful horse of the whole number, gal-

48 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
loping over the roughest ground after buffalo without
ever making a mistake, or giving his rider a fall, and
eventually carried packs over the mountains into
British Columbia.
Our supplies consisted of pemmican, dried meat,
flour, tea, salt, tobacco, rum, a large quantity of am
munition, blankets, and buffalo robes, and knives and
trinkets for presents or barter. These and a canvass
tent were carried in six of the small rough carts of
the country, which are made entirely of wood ; and
although they break more readily than if iron were
used, yet they are easily repaired when travelling
where iron and blacksmiths are not found.
We discarded boots and coats, adopting the cos
tume of the country, viz., moccasins, and hunting-
shirts of the skin of the Cariboo deer. Our weapons
were a double-barrelled gun, hunting-knife, and a
revolver a-piece, which last we only carried when in
dangerous localities.
And here we would offer a word of advice to
any future traveller in the Hudson's Bay territories.
If he intends merely to hunt buffalo on the plains
in the summer, when he can take carts along with
him, and ample supplies, let him take a rifle if he
will ; but if he wishes to see wild life in every phase,
and rough it through the winter, as we did, let him
be content with a double-barrelled smooth-bore, which
will carry ball well. Carts cannot travel in the deep
snow, and everything has to be carried on dog-sleighs.
Every pound of weight is a consideration, and a gun
packed on a sleigh is almost certain to be bent or

THE "NOCE." 49
broken. In the woods the hunter must carry all his
baggage and provisions on his back.
Two guns are, therefore, out of the question in
both cases. The hunter and trapper lives by the
feathered game which he kills, rather than by the
larger animals, which are only occasionally met with ;
and although he may be a crack shot, he cannot kill
birds on the wing with a rifle, or two or three at
a time, as he must do if he would avoid starvation,
and economise his ammunition. A good smooth-bore
shoots well enough, up to sixty or eighty yards,
for all practical purposes, and during our experience
we never met with an instance where we could not
approach within that distance of large game.
We left Fort Garry on the 23rd of August, in the
highest spirits, feeling free as air, riding alongside our
train of carts, which carried all we possessed on the
continent. We had several spare horses, and these
trotted along after us as naturally as Rover. The
road followed the left bank of the Assiniboine pretty
closely, passing through level prairie land, with here
and there patches of woodland, and a few houses. As
we passed one of these hamlets, Voudrie informed us
that a cousin of his — the cousins of a half-breed are
legion — had been married that morning, and invited
us to the wedding festivities, which were then going
on at the house of the bride's father close by. As we
had some curiosity to see a " noce," we agreed, and
immediately camped, and walked to the house, where
we were duly introduced by Voudrie, and warmly
welcomed by the assembled company.

50 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
After we had discussed some meat, cakes, pasties,
tea, and whisky spread out on the ground outside, we
adjourned to the ball-room, the sitting-room of the
little two-roomed house. It was crowded with guests,
dressed in full half-breed finery. At one end were
two fiddlers, who worked in relays, the music being in
most rapid time, and doubtless very fatiguing to the in
strumentalists. The dance, in which about half a dozen
couples were engaged when we entered, appeared to be
a kind of cross between a Scotch reel and the "Lancers,"
a number of lively steps, including a double-shuffle
and stamp, being executed with great vigour. The
dancing was dancing, and no mistake, and both the
men and their fair partners were exceedingly hot and
exhausted when the " set" was finished. The figures
appeared so intricate, and the skill of the performers
so admirable, that we were deterred by our natural
diffidence from yielding to the repeated solicitations
of the M.C. to select partners and foot it with the rest.
At length, however, Milton, with a courage equal to
the occasion, and, it is suspected, strongly attracted by
the beauty of the bride — a delicate-featured, pensive-
looking girl of sixteen or seventeen, with a light
and graceful figure — boldly advanced, and led her out
amid the applause of the company. He succeeded in
interpreting the spirit of the music, if not with the
energy, certainly with a greater dignity and infinitely
less exertion than his compeers. His performance
was highly appreciated by all — including Treemiss
and Cheadle — who gazed with admiration, mingled
with envy, at a success they were unequal to achieve.

LA RONDE'S LAST CAROUSE. 51
Weary at length of the hot room, and the in
cessant scraping of fiddles and stamping of feet, we
returned to camp and proposed to start again. La
Ronde, who had been in various stages of intoxication
ever since leaving Fort Garry, taking parting drinks
with his friends at every opportunity, had disappeared,
and the others endeavoured to persuade us that it was
too late to go further that night. We overruled their
objections, however, and set out. La Ronde made his
appearance before we had gone very far, considerably
sobered, and very penitent. He assured us he had
had his last drunk for many a long day, saying, " Je
boive pas souvent, messieurs, mais quand je boive, je
boive comme il faut ; c'est ma facon, voyez vous." And
so it turned out, for we never had to complain of
him again, and although we frequently offered him
rum, he always refused it, declaring he did not
care for it unless he could have a regular carouse.
And thus it is with both half-breeds and Indians ;
they do not drink from a liking for the taste of the
liquor, but simply to produce the happy state of
intoxication. After leaving Portage La Prairie, fifty miles beyond
Fort Garry, and the western boundary of the settle
ment, we entered a fine, undulating country, full of
lakes and marsjies thronged with wild-fowl, and studded
with pretty copses of aspen. As we rode along we
continually came across the skulls of buffalo, whitened
by age and exposure. A few years ago buffalo were
plentiful along' the road between Red River and
Carlton. The prairies were gay with the flowers
e 2

52 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
of the dark blue gentianella, which grew in great
profusion. Each day was like the one before, yet without a
wearisome monotony. Sometimes we jogged dreamily
along beside the carts, or lay basking in the bright
sunshine. When tired of idleness, we cantered ahead,
with Rover in attendance, and shot geese and ducks
at the lakes, or prairie grouse in the copses. Feathered
game was so plentiful that we easily killed enough to
feed the whole party, and rarely had occasion to trench
on our stock of pemmican. A little before sundown
we camped by wood and water, hobbled the horses,
and then ate our suppers with appetites such as we
had never known before. At night, while smoking
our pipes round the camp fire, La Ronde amused us
with stories of his hunting adventures, of encounters
with the Sioux, or of his journey with Dr. Rae, after
which we turned into our blankets and slept soundly
till daybreak.
About midnight, however, on one occasion, when
all were sound asleep, the men under the carts, and our
selves in the tent, Treemiss suddenly jumped up with a
great shout, and rushed, sans culottes, out of the tent,
crying, "Indians! Indians! Indians!" Awakened
thus rudely, we ran out after him, frightened and half
asleep, and Milton, observing a figure stealthily moving
near one of the carts, dashed at it, seized it by the
throat, and half strangled — Voudrie, who, hearing
the noise, had jumped up also to see what was the
matter. When we found there was no real cause for
alarm, we searched for Treemiss, and found him on

FORT ELLICE. 53
the top of a cart, busily engaged in unpacking one of
his boxes. He was still in a state of somnambulism,
and tremendously puzzled, when we awoke him, to find
himself where he was, shivering in his shirt in the
cold night air. We had a hearty laugh over the affair
next morning, and concluded that a mushroom supper,
and La Ronde's wild stories together, were the cause
of the horrible nightmare. While we were talking it
over, the men told us Vital was missing. We had
remonstrated with him about his laziness the day
before, and he had taken it in high dudgaon, and
decamped in the night.
During the day we met a train of carts returning
to Red River, and engaged one of the drivers, a
loutish-looking youth, who rejoiced in the name of
Zear, in place of Vital. The man in charge was the
bearer of a note from Lord Dunmore, stating that he
was lying ill at Fort Ellice, and requesting Cheadle
to come to his relief as quickly as possible. The next
morning, therefore, we tied our blankets behind our
saddles, hung a tin cup to our belts, and taking
a couple of " gallettes," or unleavened cakes, a-piece,
set out on a forced march to the Fort, leaving the
men to follow more slowly with the carts.
We rode hard, and reached our destination on the
evening of the third day, when we found that our
exertions had been useless, as Lord Dunmore had left
the day before. When the carts arrived two days
afterwards, several of them required repairs, which
delayed us two days longer. We were very kindly
entertained by Mr. Mackay, the officer in charge of

54 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the Fort, and amused ourselves by visiting the half-
breeds and Indians, whose lodges were erected in con
siderable numbers round the Fort. From one of
them we purchased a " lodge " in place of our canvass
tent, the former being far more comfortable during
the cold autumn nights, as it admits of a fire being
made in the centre.
The half-breed hunters had just been driven in by
the Sioux, who had killed four of their party, having
surprised them while cutting wood away from the
camp. The remainder of the half-breeds came up,
however, and drove them off, killing one, whose bow
and arrow they showed us. The Indians who frequent
the Fort are Sauteux, Assiniboines, and Crees ; and
the half-breeds, nearly all of whom are related to one
or other of these tribes, share their hostility to the
Sioux and Blackfeet, and occasionally join the war-
parties of their kinsfolk. The women were busily
engaged in making pemmican, which is prepared in
the following manner : — The meat, having been dried
in the sun, or over a fire in thin flakes, is placed
in a dressed buffalo skin, and pounded with a flail
until it is reduced to small fragments and powder.
The fat of the animal is at the same time melted
down. The pounded meat is then put into bags of
buffalo hide, and the boiling grease poured on to it.
The mass is well stirred and mixed together, and on
cooling becomes as solid as linseed cake. Although
we found pemmican decidedly unpalatable at first,
tasting remarkably like a mixture of chips and
tallow, we became very partial to it after a time.

PEMMICAN. 55
A finer kind of pemmican is made by using only
marrow and soft fat, leaving out the tallow, and some
times adding berries of different kinds and some
sugar. The berry pemmican is much prized, and
very difficult to get hold of, and is really capital
eating. (*)
In a country where food is scarce, and the means
of transport very limited, pemmican is invaluable to
the traveller, as it contains a large amount of nourish
ment in very small weight and compass. It is
uncommonly satisfying, and the most hungry mortal
is able to devour but a very small portion. Many a
time have we sat down half-famished, despising as
insignificant the dish of pemmican set before us, and
yet been obliged to leave the mess unfinished. The
voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose
power of enduring fatigue is probably unequalled,
subsist almost entirely upon this kind of food. It has,
however, one drawback : it is very difficult of digestion,
and a full meal of it is certain to cause considerable
suffering to an unaccustomed stomach. There are few
half-breeds who do not suffer habitually from dyspepsia.
Having crossed the Assiniboine river above the
Fort, we now left it to the right, travelling for several
days through rich, park-like country, similar to that
we had previously traversed. Innumerable lakes and
pools, swarming with wild-fowl, supplied us with con-

¦ (') The pemmican used in the Arctic expeditions was manufac
tured in England of the best beef, with currants, raisins, and sugar ;
very different to the coarse stuff which is the staff of life in the
Hudson's Bay territories.

56 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
stant shooting, and Rover with abundance of work.
Canada geese, white geese, mallards, canvass-backs,
spoon-billed ducks, various kinds of pochards, blue-
winged teal, and common teal, were the most common
of the different species which thronged the waters.
Occasionally the appearance of a new species of duck,
or a flock of white swans, gave fresh zest to the sport.
The ducks at this season are most delicious, possessing
much of the ordinary flavour of the wild bird, with all
the fatness and delicacy of the tame one. The broods
of prairie grouse were already full grown, and very
plentiful. When driven into the little round copses
of aspen which are such a prominent feature of the
" park country," they afforded capital sport.
We were now enjoying all the glory of the Indian
summer. The days were of that clear, unclouded
brightness almost peculiar to the country ; the tem
perature of a delightful warmth, except at night, when
it was slightly frosty, the water sometimes showing a
thin incrustation of ice by morning. The mosquitoes
and sand-flies had disappeared with the first cool
evening, and we slept in peace.
After passing the deserted old Fort at Touchwood
Hills, we came, in the course of a day or two, to a long
stretch of bare rolling prairie, destitute of tree or
shrub, and its hollows occupied by nothing but salt
lakes, where we were obliged to carry with us a
supply of fire-wood and fresh water. When we were
coming to the old park country again, one evening at
dark, Cheadle and La Ronde, who were out shooting
ahead of the train, came to a little skirt of wood on

A HORSE'S INSTINCT. 57
the shores of a small lake, where they awaited the
arrival of the carts, in order to camp. These soon came
up, the horses were taken out and hobbled, and whilst
the camp was being prepared, La Ronde walked down
to the lake to try and get a shot at what he supposed
were ducks on the water. He crept cautiously up,
but when he peeped through the bushes which fringed
the shore, he found to his astonishment that what he
took for ducks were prairie hens. The lake was dry,
and the saline incrustation in its bed had in the
twilight, at a little distance, the most complete
appearance of water. Although it was nearly dark,
we had no choice but to harness up again, and go
forward until we did find water somewhere. La
Ronde and Cheadle were considerably " chaffed "
for the mistake they had made, and Milton galloped
off in search of a suitable camping ground. After
riding two or three miles, principally through thick
wood, without meeting with a sign of water, his
horse suddenly neighed and turned abruptly out of
the track into the bushes. The quacking of ducks
at a little distance induced his rider to dismount and
search, and there, sure enough, hidden amongst the
trees, was a fine sheet of water. The instinct of the
horse saved us many miles' journey in the dark, for
we travelled far next morning before we found another
lake or stream. .
On the 25th of September we reached the south
branch of the Saskatchewan, here a stream of about
eighty yards wide, flowing in a valley cut deep in the
plain level, the sides of which are steep and wooded.

58 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
The two branches of the river are only eighteen miles
apart at this point, and after crossing the south branch
on the morning of the 26th, we reached Carlton the
same day, having now accomplished about 500 out of
the 1,200 or 1,300 miles from Red River to the foot
of the Rocky Mountains.

CHAPTER IV.
Carlton— Buffalo close to the Fort— Fall of Snow— Decide to Winter
near White Fish Lake — The Grisly Bears— Start for the Plains —
The Dead Buffalo— The White Wolf— Running Buffalo Bulls— The
Gathering of the Wolves — Treemiss Lost — How he Spent the
Night — Indian Hospitality — Visit of the Crees — The Chiefs
Speech — Admire our Horses — Suspicions — Stratagem to Elude
the Crees — Watching Horses at Night — Suspicious Guests — The
Cows not to be Found — More Running — Tidings of our Pursuers
— Return to the Fort.
Carlton House, of which Mr. Lillie was in charge
at this time, like the other forts of the Hudson's Bay
Company, consists of a few wooden buildings, sur
rounded by a high square palisade, flanked at each
corner with small square towers. It stands on the
south side of the Saskatchewan, in the low ground close
to the river, and below the high banks which formed
the ancient boundary of the stream. The north
Saskatchewan is very similar in appearance to the south
branch, but of rather greater size. Situated between
the vast forest on the north and the prairie which
stretches away to the south, it was formerly a post of
very considerable importance. But as the fur-bearing
animals have decreased in the woods, and the buffalo
are often far distant on the plains, it has ceased to be
one of the most profitable establishments. When we
arrived there, however, we were gladdened by the

60 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
news that this year the buffalo had come up closer
than usual, the bulls being but one and the cows not
more than two days' journey distant.
The night after our arrival snow began to fall
heavily, and continued most of the next day, covering
the ground to the depth of five inches. But Mr. Lillie
assured us that this could not be the commencement
of the winter, and would all rapidly disappear, to be
followed by several weeks of fine weather. And, in
accordance with this prediction, a thaw set in on the
following day.
We had now decided, by La Ronde's advice, to go
into winter quarters amongst the peaceful Wood Crees
near White Fish Lake, about eighty miles N.N. W. of
Carlton, and situated on the borders of the endless
forest which stretches away to the northward. Here
we should find very good trapping grounds within
80 or 100 miles of the plains, and the buffalo, who
had already crossed the north Saskatchewan in great
numbers, might possibly advance within one or two
days' journey of our position. We therefore trans
ferred our winter supplies to the Fort, and prepared
for an excursion on to the plains to run buffalo, before
finally establishing ourselves for the winter.
Milton started with the carts next day ; but two
grisly bears having been seen the day before within
five or six miles of the place, Treemiss and Cheadle set
out at daybreak in search of them, intending to catch
up the carts, if possible, the same day. Directed by
some half-breeds, they rode on several miles, and then
came upon the tracks, which they followed for a con-

HUNTING a wolf. 61
siderable distance. But the snow had rapidly melted
away, and their skill was unequal to following the trail
on the bare ground. They were therefore compelled,
very reluctantly, to relinquish the pursuit, and returned
to the Fort grievously disappointed. The footprints
of one of the animals were of enormous size, and
showed in the snow with great distinctness. The
length was that of a man's fore-arm, and the mark of
the claws like the impress of human fingers.
After dining with Mr. Lillie, they started after the
carts, which they regained at dark, after a hard ride of
some thirty miles. We all arose the next morning in
great excitement, knowing that we might expect
to see buffalo at any moment, for even Milton, who
was an old hand at " running," and had been out with
the Great Fall Hunt, from Fort Garry, two years before,
could not conceal a certain inability to sit still, and a
restless, nervous impatience to be at the wild sport
again. La Ronde rode ahead to reconnoitre, and
Treemiss, too impatient to wait, followed him shortly
after. We remained with the carts, expecting La
Ronde's report. He did not return, however, and we
presently came upon a buffalo bull lying dead close to
the track — a victim, doubtless, to La Ronde. Several
wolves were prowling about, and whilst the men were
engaged in cutting up the animal, we rode in chase of
a large white fellow. Milton led, and turned him
repeatedly, but missed him with both barrels, and
Cheadle took up the chase, but with no better success.
We rode over him time after time, but failed to hit
him, as he dodged about under our horses, snarling and

62 THE north-west passage by land.
showing his teeth. The horses were at length
thoroughly blown, and the wolf gaining at every stride,
we gave up the chase. After riding seven or eight
miles, we arrived at the camp, long after dark, exceed
ingly cold and hungry, and much vexed with La Ronde
for keeping all the sport to himself. Treemiss had
been more fortunate than we, and produced, with
great triumph, the tongues and marrow-bones of two
animals which he had killed.
We were under way very early on the following
morning, and Cheadle excited great merriment by the
ludicrous appearance which he made, bestriding a
little roan mare of fourteen hands, which looked
very unfit to carry his big frame of thirteen stone.
But Bucephalus was too sorely galled to bear a
saddle, and Cheadle, determined not to miss the sport,
despised ridicule, and went forth on the little cart
mare. After two or three miles' travelling, the carts
which were in front of us suddenly stopped, and
Voudrie came running hastily back, crying in an
excited manner, but with subdued voice, " Les bceufs,
les bceufs, les bceufs sont proches !" We rode up
quietly, and saw a herd of nine bulls feeding about
a mile off, and other bands in the distance, about
sixty in all. Girths were now tightened, and guns
examined, and then we went forward at a foot's pace,
feeling in much the same nervous condition as a
freshman at the university in his first boat-race,
waiting for the sound of the gun which gives the
signal to start.
We rode in line, with La Ronde as captain in the

BUFFALO RUNNING. 63
centre. When we arrived within a quarter of a mile
of the largest band, they began to move slowly off;
and La Ronde, imitating the lowing of a buffalo, the
other groups looked up from their grazing, and then
trotted off to join the main body who were still
walkmg quietly along. We now went forward at a
canter, and the herd having collected together, broke
into a lumbering gallop ; but we gained on them
rapidly, until within about 200 yards, when they
went off at speed. La Ronde gave the signal with a
wild " Hurrah ! hurrah ! alez ! alez !" and away we
all went, helter-skelter, arms brandishing, and heels
hammering our horses' ribs in true half-breed fashion
— a mad, wild charge ; Milton leading on his old red
horse, and Cheadle bringing up the rear on the little
roan mare. As we closed with them, the herd broke
up into bands of three or four, and each person
selected the one lying most favourably for himself.
A succession of shots soon told that the slaughter had
begun ; but we were all quickly separated, and each
knew nothing of the success of the rest, until the run
was over.
Buffalo running is certainly a most fascinating
sport. The wild charge together into the thick of
the herd, the pursuit of the animal selected from the
band, which a well-trained horse follows and turns as
a greyhound courses a hare ; the spice of danger in it
from the charge of a wounded animal, or a fall from
the holes so numerous on the prairies, contrive to
render it extremely exciting. There is something
also very ludicrous in the appearance of the bulls as

64 the north-west passage by land.
they lumber along in their heavy gallop. Their
small hind-quarters, covered only with short hair,
seem absurdly disproportioned to the heavy front,
with its hump and shaggy mane ; and as they gallop,
their long beards and fringed dewlaps sway from side
to side, whilst their little eyes roll viciously, as they
peep out of the forest of hair at the enemy behind them.
It was curious to see how the wolves seemed to
spring up, as it were, out of the ground, at the sound
of the first shot. Two or three appeared on every
little eminence, where they sat watching the progress
of the hunt. When we left one of the dead animals,
after cutting off the best meat from the carcase, they
began to steal towards it, and before we had got
many hundred yards, a dozen of them were tearing
at the body, and generally managed to pick the bones
clean before morning.
In this run all were successful. La Ronde killed
two, and the rest of us one a-piece, even Cheadle
making his appearance in due course on his diminu
tive steed, with a tongue hanging to his saddle.
Whilst the men were engaged in cutting up the
animals nearest at hand, Treemiss, still unsatiated,
started again in search of game, and Cheadle set out
with Zear to the animal he had killed, which lay
above a mile away. It presently began to rain
heavily, and Milton went on with the train, to camp in.
a grove of trees by the river-side. The rain changed
to sleet, and it became bitterly cold.
Evening began to close in, and still Treemiss and
Cheadle did not make their appearance. La Ronde

LOST ON THE PRAIRIE. 65
rode out in search of them, and guns were fired at
intervals, to signal the position of the camp. A little
after dark, however, Cheadle arrived with Zear,
drenched to the skin and miserably cold. They had
caught a glimpse of Treemiss several hours before, as
he passed them in full career after a band of buffalo.
A portion of the herd crossed about a hundred yards
in front, and Cheadle brought down the leader, to
the great admiration of Zear. This delayed them
cutting up the meat until darkness came on, and they
had some difficulty in finding the camp. We con
tinued to fire occasional shots until after midnight,
and raised a firebrand on one of the lodge poles as a
beacon, but were fain to retire to rest minus our com
panion. At daybreak next morning all the men were
dispatched in search, but without success. Presently,
however, a group of horsemen were descried riding
towards us, and proved to be Treemiss and a party of
Crees. After wandering about, the night before, until
after dark, completely lost, he turned aside into a
clump of trees, and attempted to light a fire. But
matches, tinder, and wood were all wet, and he could
not succeed. Mounting his tired horse once more,
he rode along for several hours, drenched to the skin,
and almost numb with cold. At length, by a for
tunate accident, he came upon an Indian camp, and
was most hospitably received. He was taken into
the chief's lodge, his clothes dried, meat and Indian
tea set before him, and as a cordial after, a mug of
warm water mixed with grease. Weary as he was,
F

66 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
however, he found it almost impossible to sleep that
night. Both men and squaws turned out continually
to cook meat, smoke, or beat presuming dogs, which
were seized as they rushed out of the lodge by others
lying in wait by the door, and a general fight ensued.
When morning came he made his hosts understand
that he had lost his way, whereupon they saddled
their horses, and as if by instinct, led him straight
to our camp.
We shook hands with our visitors, and inviting
them into the lodge, passed round the calumet, accord
ing to the rules of Indian politeness. For a long time
they sat round with legs crossed, smoking in perfect
silence. At last, after some preliminary conversation,
the chief, a fine-looking fellow, dressed in a spangled
shirt, a cap covered with many-coloured ribbons, and
an elaborately-worked medicine-bag, rose and made an
oration in the Cree language. He delivered himself
with much dignity, his gestures were graceful and easy,
and his speech fluent. He said, " I and my brothers
have been much troubled by the reports we have heard
from the Company's men, who tell us that numbers of
white men will shortly visit this country; and that
we must beware of them. Tell me why you come here.
In your own land you are, I know, great chiefs. You
have abundance of blankets, tea and salt, tobacco and
rum. You have splendid guns, and powder and shot
as much as you can desire. But there is one thing
that you lack — you have no buffalo, and you come
here to seek them. I am a great chief also. But the
Great Spirit has not dealt with us alike. You he has

OUR STRATAGEM. 67
endowed with various riches, while to me he has
given the buffalo alone. Why should you visit this
country to destroy the only good thing I possess,
simply for your own pleasure ? Since, however, I feel
sure that you are great, generous, and good, I give
you my permission to go where you will, and hunt as
much as you desire, and when you enter my lodge
you shall be welcome."
With this conclusion he sat down and resumed
the pipe, awaiting our answer. He had put the
case so truly and forcibly, that we really felt almost
ashamed of ourselves, and should have found some
difficulty in replying, had he not ended his speech
so graciously. As it was, we merely thanked him for
his courtesy, and made him and his companions what
we considered a very handsome present of knives,
ammunition, tea, salt, and tobacco. They did not
seem satisfied, and wanted a gun, blankets, and above
all, rum. These we refused, and at length they took
their departure, apparently in good humour, although
they intimated that they doubted whether we were
such very great people, after all, since we had no rum.
As they went out they viewed our horses with evident
admiration, and La Ronde became very uneasy, assuring
us that they were displeased with their reception, and
would certainly follow our trail and attempt to carry
them off. We accordingly took measures to evade
their pursuit, and save our property. Moving forward
three or four miles, we encamped close to the river, as
if about to cross, and kept watch during the night.
No alarm occurred, and the following morning we
f 2

68 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
turned off at right angles, travelling at great speed
some twenty miles, until we reached a small stream
called Eagle River, when we camped again. The
weather favoured our escape, a dense fog shrouding
us from the view of any who might be watching our
movements. This was followed in the afternoon by a
high wind, which, although it dispersed the mist,
raised the grass bent down by our passage, and thus
completely effaced our trail. At night we again kept
diligent guard, picketing all the most valuable horses
close to the lodge.
We spent the next day in looking for the cows, but
no sign of them could be seen. We therefore resolved
to spend a few days longer in running bulls, and then
return to the Fort. We were still obliged to keep
careful watch during the night, for the attempt on the
horses was more likely to be made after the lapse of
some days, according to Indian custom. Each took
his turn on guard, and it must be confessed we felt
somewhat uncomfortable as we crouched in the shade
of the bushes alone, while all the rest were asleep. It
was fortunately bright moonlight, but the loose horses
continually strayed out of view, and as we stole
round from time to time to drive them in, we half
expected to feel the hand of some ambushed Indian
laid upon our shoulder, when we passed through the
thick underwood.
One afternoon two Indians, youths of about seven
teen, came to our camp, and expressed their intention of
honouring us with their company till the morrow. We
had strong suspicions that they were spies, but invited

OUR WIGHT CAMP ON EAGLE 1UVEK. - EXPECTING THE CREES.

(See page 68.)

THE CREES AT FAULT. 69
them to sleep in the lodge, and redoubled our vigilance
in keeping watch. But the night again passed without
alarm, and we concluded that we had succeeded in
throwing our pursuers off the trail. After hunting
several days more, with varied success, we made a rapid
journey back to the Fort, which we reached on the 8th
of October. On our way we overtook the Company's
train of carts returning, laden with meat. Mr. Sinclair,
who was in charge, informed us that when first the
hunters went out on the fall hunt, they found buffalo
in extraordinary numbers. Vast herds covered the
ground in every direction, so that the earth fairly
shook again beneath their trampling, and at night
sleep was almost impossible from the constant lowing,
and the tumult of their passage. By the time he got
there the large bands had been broken up, and the
cows, who are much wilder than the bulls, driven far
to the south. He also told us that he had met the
party of Crees who had guided Treemiss to the camp
on the occasion when he lost his way. They related
the whole story to him, with the further information
that they had been much disappointed with us, and
vastly smitten with our horses, which they had made
up their minds to carry off. Accordingly, a large party
cautiously followed our trail the next day, but when
they arrived at our old camp by the river — the point
where we had turned off at right angles — they were
unable to trace us any further, and concluded that we
had crossed the river. We were greatly pleased to find
our suspicions were not groundless, and that the strata
gem we adopted had been so completely successful.

CHAPTER V.
The Ball— Half-Breed Finery— Voudrie and Zear return to Fort
Garry— Treemiss starts for the Montagne du Bois— Leave Carlton
for Winter Quarters— Shell River— La Belle Prairie— Riviere
Crochet— The Indians of White Fish Lake— Kekek-ooarsis, or
" Child of the Hawk," and Keenamontiayoo, or " The Long Neck"
— Their Jollification— Passionate Fondness for Rum— Excitement
in the Camp— Indians Flock in to Taste the Fire-water — Sitting
out our Visitors — A Weary Day— Cache the Rum Keg by Night
— Retreat to La Belle Prairie— Site of our House — La Ronde as
Architect— How to Build a Log Hut— The Chimney — A Grand
Crash — Our Dismay — Milton supersedes La Ronde— The Chim
ney Rises again — Our Indian Friends — The Frost sets in.
The night after our return to Carlton, a ball was got
up by the half-breeds in honour of our visit. Mr.
Lillie gave up his best room for the purpose, and we
provided the refreshment, in the shape of rum ; the
expectation that we should do so being no doubt one
of the greatest attractions the entertainment offered.
The men appeared in gaudy array, with beaded firebag,
gay sash, blue or scarlet leggings, girt below the knee
with beaded garters, and moccasins elaborately em
broidered ; the women in short, bright-coloured skirts,
showing the richly-embroidered leggings, and white
moccasins of cariboo-skin, beautifully worked with
flowery patterns in beads, silk, and moose hair. Some
of the young girls were good-looking, but many of
them were disfigured by goitre, which is very prevalent

LEAVE CARLTON FOR WINTER QUARTERS. 71
among the half-breeds at all the posts on the Sas
katchewan, although unknown amongst the Indians.
Sinclair, who acted as musician, was kept hard at
work, with but short respites for refreshment, and the
revelry continued far into the small hours.
As winter was now close at hand, we hastened our
departure for White Fish Lake. Treemiss had decided
to fix his residence at the Montagne du Bois, or
Thickwood Hills, about fifty miles N.W. of Carlton,
where large game was more abundant, and which was
nearer to the plains. The Montagne du Bois had
moreover the additional attraction of being the home
of Atahk-akoohp, or " Star of the Blanket," the most
noted hunter of the district. La Ronde and Bruneau
accompanied us, to remain during the winter ; Voudrie
and Zear returning to Fort Garry, in charge of the
most valuable horses and our letters for England.
On the 10th of October we transferred horses,
carts, and baggage to the north side of the Saskatche
wan, and in the evening bade good-bye to the people
of the Fort, and followed our train, camping for that
night on the bank of the river. Next morning we
said adieu to Treemiss, as from this point our roads
diverged. We were now once more travelling through mixed
country. The weather was still beautifully fine, and
during the day pleasantly warm. The nights began
to be very keen, and the lakes were already partly
covered with a thin coating of ice.
The wild-fowl had taken their departure for the
south, only a few stragglers remaining from the later

72 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
broods. Many of the latter fall victims to their pro
crastination, being frequently found frozen fast in the
ice. But this, the Indians assert, takes place in
consequence of their excessive fatness, which renders
them unable to rise on the wing, and they are thus
detained behind, to suffer a miserable death.
In four days we arrived at the Shell River, a
small tributary of the Saskatchewan ; and here we
had all to jump into the stream and assist in helping
the heavily-laden carts down the steep bank, and up
the opposite slope. The water was cold as ice, and
we hardly enjoyed our compulsory bath, but the
noon-day sun shone warmly, and a rapid walk soon
restored the circulation in our benumbed limbs.
The next day brought us to a lovely little spot,
a small prairie of perhaps 200 acres, surrounded by
low wooded hills, and on one side a lake winding
with many an inlet amongst the hills and into the
plain, while here and there a tiny promontory, richly
clothed with pines and aspens, stretched out into the
water. The beauty of the place had struck the rude
voyageurs, its only visitors, except the Indians, and
they had named it La Belle Prairie.
As we crossed it, we remarked to one another
what a magnificent site for a house one of the pro
montories would be, and how happy many a poor
farmer who tilled unkindly soil at home would feel in
possession of the rich land which lay before us. The
same day we struck the river Crochet, a stream of
about the same size as Shell River, and assisted to
help the carts across, as we had done at the latter.

KEKEK-OOARSIS. 73
About half a mile beyond, we saw two small wooden
houses. We encamped in an open space at a little
distance, and then walked up to make the acquaint
ance of the occupants. One of the huts had been
built by an enterprising free-trader, Mr. Pruden ; the
other, at its side, by the Company, in opposition. Mr.
Pruden was at length induced to enter the Company's
service as Chief Trader at Carlton, and presented his
dwelling to two families of Indians. The Company's
establishment was dismantled, and remained un
tenanted. A fishery was still worked occasionally at
White Fish Lake, close by. In the house we found
an old Indian engaged in mending a net, and his
squaw squatted by the hearth indulging in a pipe.
They shook hands with us very cordially, La Ronde
introducing us as a great chief and great medicine
man, who had travelled far for the pleasure of
making their acquaintance. The old fellow rejoiced
in the name of Kekek-ooarsis, or " The Child of the
Hawk," in allusion to the beak-like form of his nose.
We smoked several pipes with him while answer
ing the numerous questions he addressed to us
through La Ronde, and were so delighted with his
urbanity, that in a weak moment we promised to
make him a present of a small quantity of rum.
Alas ! mistaken generosity, fruitful of anxiety and
trouble ! The old gentleman became all excitement,
said we were the best fellows he had met for many a
day, adding that if he might venture to offer a sug
gestion, it would be that we should fetch the fire-water
immediately. We accordingly went back to the

74 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
lodge, sent off to him a very small quantity well
watered, taking the precaution to fill a small keg with
a weak mixture, and hiding the cask in the cart.
It does not answer, however, to dilute the spirits
too much. It must be strong enough to be inflam
mable, for an Indian always tests it by pouring a few
drops into the fire. If it possesses the one property
from which he has given it the name of fire-water, he
is satisfied, whatever its flavour or other qualities
may be.
We had hardly covered up the cask, when Kekek-
ooarsis appeared, accompanied by his squaw, a
withered old hag, and Keenamontiayoo, " The Long
Neck," his son-in-law. The men were already half
drunk, singing away the Indian song without words,
and clamorous for more rum. They produced a
number of marten and other skins, and all our expla
nations failed to make them understand that we had
not come as traders.
After two hours' continued discussion, we doled
out another small quantity, as the only way to get rid
of them. , How they chuckled and hugged the pot !
exclaiming, "Tarpwoy! tarpwoy!" (It is true ! it is
true !) hardly able to believe the delightful fact. At
the first dawn of day, they entered the lodge again,
bringing more furs for sale.
Boys rode off as couriers in all directions to carry
the welcome tidings to their friends in the neighbour
hood. Before long men came galloping up from
different quarters, and these were presently followed
by squaws and children, all eager to taste the pleasure-

FIRE-WATER. 75
giving fire-water, and our lodge was soon crowded with
importunate guests. To end the matter, we sent them
off with what remained in the little keg, all they
actually knew that we possessed, for we had kept the
cask in the cart hidden securely out of their sight. In
about two hours all returned, more or less intoxicated,
and the infernal clamour re-commenced with ten
fold importunity. First one fellow thrust a marten
skin into our hands, another two or three fish, while
a third, attempting to strip off his shirt for sale, fell
senseless into the arms of his squaw. The demand
was the same with all, and incessant : " Isquitayoo
arpway! isquitayoo arpway!" (Fire-water! fire-water!)
Hour after hour we sat smoking our pipes with an air
of unconcern we did not feel, and refusing all requests.
Afternoon came, and 4he scene still continued. We
dared not leave the lodge, lest they should search the
carts and discover our store.
Wearily passed the time till darkness came on, and
still the crowd sat round, and still the same request
was dinned into our ears. But we were thoroughly
determined not to give way, and at last they began to
conclude we were inexorable, and dropped off one by
one, immensely disgusted with our meanness. In the
dead of night we stealthily arose, and La Ronde went
out to reconnoitre the position of the Indians. None
were near, and all was perfectly still. We now pro
ceeded, with the greatest caution, to remove the cask
from its hiding-place, and La Ronde and Bruneau
went off to cache it safely at some distance. They
returned before daylight, very cold and wet, having

76 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
crossed the river, and deposited the cause of our troubles
in the bush some miles away.
In the morning Keenamontiayoo came to our
lodge, but did not renew his importunities. Our firm
ness the day before had produced a most salutary
effect. We were, however, so much disgusted with our
experience of the last two days, that we resolved to
give up the idea of fixing our winter residence here,
and retreat to La Belle Prairie, putting a distance of
nine or ten miles between our troublesome neighbours
and ourselves.
We retraced our steps accordingly the next day,
and set up our lodge on the banks of the lake of the
Beautiful Prairie. The site selected for our dwelling
was the middle of the wooded promontory which had
before attracted our admiration. As it was now the
end of October, it was necessary to use all speed in
putting up a house, lest the winter should set in before
our work was completed. And, moreover, we were
obliged, for the same reason, to be content with a
building of very small size, and the simplest construc
tion. La Ronde acted as architect, and proceeded to
work in the following manner.
A rude enclosure, fifteen feet by thirteen, was first
made of rough poplar logs, morticed together at the
corners of the building. The logs, however, did not
by any means lie in apposition, and the spaces between
them would admit of a hand being passed through.
As ye't there was neither door, window, nor roof, and
the walls were but six feet high in front, and little
over five feet behind. These deficiencies were, however,

OUR WINTER HT1T. — LA BELLK PKAIKIE.

(iSec j^age 76.)

BUILDING OUR HOUSE. 77
soon supplied by the ingenious La Ronde, in a much
simpler fashion than we had suspected. A doorway
and window was hewn through the solid walls ; a door
constructed of boards from the carts ; whilst a piece of
parchment supplied the place of window-glass. The
roof was covered in by straight poles of young, dry
pines, and over this was a thatch of marsh grass,
weighted down by loose earth thrown over. The low-
ness of the building, externally, was remedied inside
by digging out the ground two feet, rendering the
building very much warmer. The interstices between
the logs were filled up with mud, mixed with chopped
grass, to give it tenacity. But we had still the most
important and difficult work of all — to build the
chimney. For a long time we were unable to discover
any clay wherewith to cement the boulders of which a
chimney is constructed in backwood fashion, and
began to be seriously afraid that the strong frost would
commence before our fire-place was ready. This would,
of course, have been exceedingly awkward, for it was
difficult enough to work with untempered mortar, and
if it were frozen, building would obviously be out of
the question.
At last, after digging through several feet of rich
loam, we discovered some clayey soil, with which we
made shift, and the fire-place rose rapidly. As it
approached completion, a fire was lighted, and we were
congratulating ourselves upon complete success — when,
crash ! and down it tumbled. Great was our con
sternation, and for some time we were completely
nonplused. An animated discussion took place as to

78 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the manner of raising a more durable structure. La
Ronde and Bruneau were much chagrined at their
failure, declared the clay was worthless, and were too
sulky to set to work again at once. There was, however,
no time to be lost in repairing the damage, or we should
be left without a fire-place when the thermometer was
down below zero. Milton took upon himself to be
engineer, and built up a framework of green wood to
support the clay, and Cheadle, meanwhile, with horse
and cart, collected a stock of the most rectangular
stones to be found. By this means we built a sub
stantial fire-place, which stood bravely all the winter.
Whilst we were engaged in these labours we had
several visits from our Indian friends, but they had
ceased to be very troublesome. The hunter, Keena
montiayoo, called on his way to the Fort for winter
supplies, and returned with the news that the buffalo
had already advanced within two days' journey of La
Belle Prairie. This, however, proved to be without
foundation. We found old Kekek-ooarsis and the
squaws exceedingly useful to us. The former we
employed to make snow shoes and some dog-sleighs,
whilst the latter mended our moccasins, and made up
winter clothing.
On the 23rd of October the lake was completely
frozen over, and near two inches of snow covered the
ground. A partial thaw took place, however, on the
26th, after which the winter fairly commenced.
Our work was finished only just in time.

CHAPTER VI.
Furnishing — Cheadle's Visit to Carlton — Treemiss there — His Musical
Evening with Atahk-akoohp — A very Cold Bath — State Visit of
the Assiniboines — Their Message to Her Majesty — How they
found out we had Rum — Fort Milton Completed — The Crees of
the Woods — Contrast to the Crees of the Plains — Indian Children
— Absence of Deformity — A " Moss-bag " — Kekek-ooarsis and his
Domestic Troubles — The Winter begins in Earnest — Wariness of
all Animals — Poisoning Wolves — Caution of the Foxes — La Ronde
and Cheadle start for the Plains — Little Misquapamayoo — Milton's
Charwoman — On the Prairies — Stalking Buffalo — Belated — A
Treacherous Blanket — A Cold Night Watch — More Hunting —
Cheadle's Wits go Wool-gathering — La Ronde's Indignation —
Lost all Night — Out in the Cold Again — Our Camp Pillaged —
Turn Homewards — Rough and Ready Travelling — Arrive at Fort
Milton — Feasting.
Our house now required flooring and furnishing, and
it was decided that Milton and La Ronde should
undertake this, while Cheadle, with Bruneau, made a
journey to Carlton, to obtain a stock of pemmican,
before the snow rendered the road impassable for carts.
Accordingly, on the 29th the horses were sought,
Bucephalus captured and harnessed, and the party set
out. A bitter north wind blew strongly, and at night
the snow began to fall fast. They travelled with great
speed, reaching the banks of the Saskatchewan by dusk
on the following day. At the crossing they found a
lodge erected, and two carts laden with provisions,
which they judged to belong to Treemiss, who had

80 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
probably come over on a similar errand. After firing
several shots in vain, they turned into the lodge and
made free with the provisions, their own stock being
exhausted. On the following morning, after much
shouting, and burning a great deal of powder, a party
appeared on the opposite bank, and proceeded to bring
over the barge. This was a work of much difficulty,
as the river was already half frozen over, a passage
being still open in the middle, down which great
masses of ice crashed and grated along. As the barge
approached, a loud whoop announced the presence of
Treemiss, who was hardly recognisable dressed in long
capote and cap, with band and lappets of fur, after the
half-breed fashion. The barge brought carts across
going to Fort Pitt, and whilst it was unloading,
Treemiss related his adventures since we parted from
him. He had nearly finished his house, which, like
ours, consisted of only one room, but in a far higher
style of architecture, being loftier, and having a high-
pitched roof. He too had met with great annoyance
from the possession of a little rum, and Atahk-
akoohp and his friends had let him have no peace
until they had obtained the whole of it. Their drunken
orgies lasted through the night, and a dirty Indian
crept in to share Treemiss's bed. He was forthwith
turned out by the indignant owner, but quickly
returned, and after several repetitions of the same per
formance, Treemiss took him by the shoulders and put
him out of doors. Atahk-akoohp at length alone
remained, sitting over the fire, singing the Indian song.
Treemiss now flattered himself that at last he should

STATE VISIT OF ASSINIBOINES. 81
be left to sleep in peace. Atahk-akoohp, however,
discovering that all his audience had departed, with
the exception of Treemiss, who appeared to be sound
asleep, proceeded to arouse the latter by digging him
in the ribs, repeating the operation through the night,
as often as his victim showed any want of attention to
his tuneful efforts.
In landing on the ice on the south side, two
unfortunate fellows broke through, and plunged over
head in the water. They were soon rescued, but their
clothes instantly froze as stiff as boards, and they had
a most ludicrous appearance as they walked shivering
and covered with ice, swinging their legs stiffly as if
partially paralysed, the rigid case in which they were
enclosed preventing flexure of the knee joints. A
party had come into the Fort from Red River, but had
brought no letters for any of our party. We had as
yet received none since leaving England. Some old
newspapers furnished a little intelligence of the outer
world, containing, amongst other things, the news of
the massacre of the whites in Minnesota by the Sioux
— the first knowledge we had of the horrors we had
somewhat narrowly escaped.
A short time before Cheadle's visit, Mr. Lillie
had been surprised by a band of 300 Assiniboines,
arrayed in gayest dress and full paint, who marched
up to the Fort in solemn procession. After the
calumet had been duly passed round, and proper
presents made, the chief arose, and, in a complimentary
speech, expressed the delight with which they had
received the news that the Company had come to a

82 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
better mind, and again provided the much-loved fire
water for their Indian friends. Mr. Lillie assured
them they were mistaken, but without obtaining
belief, and they proceeded straightway to make a strict
search. Every corner of the building was visited and
turned out, and they even went down into the
ice-cellar, where the meat is kept. Failing to discover
anything, they expressed great regret that the good
news was not true, and requested Mr. Lillie to for
ward a strong remonstrance from them to Her
Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, for prohibiting that
which her Red Children loved so well, intimating that
they themselves were the best judges of what was
good for them.
The origin of their visit (the first they had made
for ten years) was as follows : — Whilst our party
were at the Fort on the previous occasion, a small
quantity of rum had been spilled upon the floor of
the store, in drawing some from the cask. Two
Assiniboines came in to trade, and smelt the delicious
odour their noses had not experienced for many a
year. Without giving the smallest sign that they
perceived anything unusual, or making any inquiry,
they hastened back to the tribe with all speed, and
communicated the joyful tidings. Instantly the
camp was all excitement, and preparations made for
the state visit to the Fort which has been related.
But they arrived too late. A few days before, we had
carried the treasure far beyond their reach. .
After one day's rest, Cheadle and Bruneau set
out on their return. The Saskatchewan was already

FORT MILTON COMPLETED. 83
frozen over above and below the Fort, but an open
passage still existed at the usual crossing-place, and
the barge was the means of conveyance from one ice-
bank to the other.
The cart was loaded on the ice, and before it
reached the shore, broke through and upset, im
mersing Bucephalus in the water. Fortunately it
was not very deep, and after some delay he was
lugged out. In a few minutes he appeared in a new
character, white as if made of frosted silver, and
bristling like a hedgehog with the long icicles which
formed on his shaggy coat as the water dripped off.
It took a long time to unload the cart, haul it out,
carry the things to the bank, and re-load; and the horse,
ice-clothed and shivering in the bitter north wind, was
a most pitiable object. However, a brisk march of
ten miles set him all right again, and the party
arrived at Fort Milton, as La Ronde had named our
hut, without further adventure, early on the third day.
During their absence Milton and La Ronde had
not been idle. A couple of bunks had been put up,
which, furnished with dry grass and buffalo robe, were
to us most luxurious sleeping-places. The door and
parchment windows were completed, and two rough
tables, one for the kitchen department, and another
for the dining end of our small, one-roomed hut.
On the 7th of November La Ronde started across
the lake, on which the ice was already four or five
inches thick, to explore the forest on the northern side,
and discover the most promising ground for trapping.
During his absence we were engaged in putting up
g 2

S4 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
shelves, making candlesticks and chairs, &c, and
arranging our goods and chattels in their places; whilst
Bruneau erected a platform outside, raised on high posts,
on which to store our meat secure from wolves and dogs.
Our Indian friends paid us visits occasionally, but
were exceedingly well-behaved, and we felt quite at
ease, having safely cached the spirit cask some distance
from the hut, and it was now completely hidden by
the accumulating snow.
The Wood Crees are of different habits and dis
position to their relatives, the Crees of the Plains — a
race of solitary trappers and hunters on foot, con
trasted with a race of gregarious horsemen. They
are very peaceable, and pride themselves upon an
honesty unknown amongst their lawless brethren of
the prairies. During the six months we spent amongst
the Crees of the Woods, we had not occasion to com
plain of a single theft. Three months of this time
we lived amongst them entirely alone, and, although
they often importuned us to give them different
things to which they took a fancy, they never offered
to dispute our right of ownership.
They are most expert trappers and hunters of
moose, and occasionally seek buffalo when they enter
the skirts of the woods in severe winters. They are
far better clothed and equipped than the Plain Indians,
being able to obtain what they may require at the
trading posts in exchange for furs. But they often
suffer severely from starvation, as moose are now be
coming scarce ; while the Plain Crees, following the
buffalo, seldom lack food, although they possess little

DOMESTIC TROUBLES OF KEKEK-OOARSIS. 85
marketable property wherewith to buy clothes and
luxuries at the Forts. These Indians, as indeed all
others we met with, managed their families admirably.
An Indian child is seldom heard to cry, and matri
monial squabbles seem unknown. Our friend Keena
montiayoo was a most affectionate husband and father,
and his wife and children obeyed him at a word,
evidently looking up to him as a superior being, to be
loved with respect.
Among the things which struck us when we be
came more extensively acquainted with the Indians,
was the absence of deformity and baldness, or grey
hair, amongst them. The former may no doubt be
accounted for by the influence of " natural selection,"
and perhaps the careful setting of the infants' limbs in
the " moss-bag," or Indian cradle. This is a board
with two side flaps of cloth, which lace together up
the centre. The child is laid on its back on the board,
packed with soft moss, and laced firmly down, with its
arms to its side, and only its head at liberty. The
cradle is slung on the back of the mother when travel
ling, or reared against a tree when resting in camp, the
child being only occasionally released from its bondage
for a few moments. The little prisoners are remarkably
good; no squalling disturbs an Indian camp, and
strict obedience is obtained without recourse to cor
poreal punishment.
On one occasion Kekek-ooarsis arrived in a state of
great excitement from domestic troubles. He had sold
one of his daughters in marriage — after the Indian
fashion — for a horse, but his ungrateful son-in-law,

86 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
after carrying off his bride, returned in the night and
stole back the horse given in payment. Kekek-ooarsis,
indignant at such behaviour, retaliated by secretly
fetching his daughter home, and was now in consider
able fear of the disappointed bridegroom, whom he
anticipated might do him bodily injury, and begged
us to give him shelter for the night, lest he should be
waylaid on his return home in the dark. This we of
course granted, but his apprehensions appeared to have
been groundless, for the husband bore his loss with
perfect indifference, and made no attempt to regain
his wife.On the 9th La Ronde returned, having found but
little sign of game until a day's journey distant, when
marten tracks became tolerably plentiful, and he had
set a few traps. On the following day the frost set in
with great severity, and six inches of snow had fallen
during the night. The men now set to work to con
struct a couple of horse-sleighs, in readiness for a
journey to the plains in search of fresh meat. Whilst
they were thus engaged, we employed ourselves in
supplying the larder, with Rover's assistance, and
rarely failed to bring in a supply of prairie grouse,
wood partridges, and rabbits. The latter were very
wary, and we saw so few that, until the snow fell, we
had no idea that they were numerous. When the
snow became deep, it was furrowed by their paths in
all directions, and we caught them by placing snares
across these runs.
With the exception of wolves and buffalo, wild
animals of any kind are rarely seen in the Hudson's

POISONING WOLVES. 87
Bay territories, unless they are carefully tracked up.
They are so constantly hunted by the Indians, and
whenever they encounter man are so invariably pursued,
that they are ever on their guard, and escape unseen
on the slightest alarm. It is only when the snow
betrays their numerous footprints, that a novice can
bring himself to believe there really is any four-footed
game in the country.
The tracks of wolves and foxes were numerous on
the lake, and the former regularly announced daybreak
and sunset by a chorus of howls. Being somewhat
afraid that our horses might be attacked by them, we
set baits, poisoned with strychnine, at different points
round the lake. The animals are so wary and sus
picious, that they will not touch a bait lying exposed,
or one which has been recently visited. It is necessary,
therefore, to cover the enticing morsel carefully with
snow, smoothing the surface evenly over it, and not
approaching the place afterwards, unless a distant view
shows that it has been dug out by a too hungry
victim. The foxes especially are exceedingly cautious,
frequently visiting the place for days and even weeks,
marching round, but not daring to enter in and
partake. For a long time we had no success ; many
of the baits were taken, and we tracked the animals
for long distances, but the poison appeared to have
had no effect. At last we were rewarded by finding
an immense white wolf, the unusual size of whose
footprints had rendered him a particular object of
pursuit. He had a most magnificent skin, which was
carefully preserved, and his carcass used as a means of

88 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
destruction for his brethren. In a week all the large
wolves were destroyed, and our horses considered safe
for the winter.
When the sleighs were completed, La Ronde paid
a rapid visit to his traps, returning in two days with
a fisher and a few martens, and the following day
he set out with Cheadle for the plains, taking two
horses and sleighs to bring back the produce of their
hunt. They were accompanied by an Indian boy — the
son of the hunter, Keenamontiayoo — who brought a
very diminutive horse, a two-year-old colt, the size of
a Shetland pony, to carry his share of the spoils.
Misquapamayoo, or " The thing one catches a glimpse
of," was an exceedingly active, clever youth of
fourteen, with very large black eyes, and an open,
merry face, very willing and obliging, and performing
all his duties with the dignity and importance of a
man. He became afterwards a devoted follower of
ours, and did good service on many occasions, often
amusing us by his insatiable curiosity and intense
enjoyment of anything which seemed to him strange
or ridiculous, falling into fits of laughter on the
slightest provocation. During the absence of this
party, Milton remained at home with Bruneau, to
attend to the traps and take care of house and pro
perty. Being somewhat dissatisfied with Bruneau's
performance of his duties as housemaid and laundress,
Milton took the opportunity afforded by the visit of
an Indian and his squaw, to engage the latter for a
general washing and house-cleaning. Although it
was night when they arrived, the woman set to work

milton's charwoman. 89
immediately, diligently melting snow at a roaring fire
for hours, and when about midnight she had obtained
a sufficient supply of water, proceeded to scrub blankets
and clothes. Milton expostulated, and suggested she
should retire to rest, but in vain. The splashing and
scrubbing went on without cessation, and sleep was
impossible. At length Milton, driven to desperation,
jumped out of bed, threw away all the water, and put
out the fire. The squaw thereupon retired to rest in
much astonishment, and for a time all was still.
Presently, however, when she imagined Milton had
fallen asleep, she quietly got up, and re-commenced her
labours. The unhappy retainer of her services was
fairly beaten, and compelled to resign himself to his
fate, venting many maledictions on the untimely
industry of his servant.
The hunting party meanwhile pursued their way
to the plains, following an old Indian track to the
south-west for about eighty miles. Passing through
a hilly country, well wooded and watered, on the
morning of the fourth day they reached the brow of
a hill, whence they saw the prairie stretching away
before them. La Ronde quickly detected five buffalo,
grazing about a mile distant, and a camp was imme
diately made. After a hasty meal of dry pemmican —
a fire being dispensed with for fear of frightening the
game — they prepared for the hunt. The day was
unusually warm, and in a weak moment La Ronde
and Cheadle both divested themselves of leather shirt
and capote before starting. After a great deal of
dodging and crawling on hands and knees through the

90 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
snow, they gained a point where, peering through a
little patch of scrub, they saw the five bulls within
twenty yards of them. La Ronde, in his excitement,
hurriedly whispered instructions to Cheadle in a most
unintelhgible jargon of mingled French, English,
and Cree. The latter, equally excited, and bewildered
by directions he could not understand, hesitated to
fire. La Ronde, in despair, stealthily raised his gun,
when Cheadle, unwilling to be forestalled, raised his
also, and in so doing incautiously protruded his head
out of cover.
In an instant the whole band started off full speed,
saluted, as they went, by an ineffectual volley at their
sterns. Many were the mutual recriminations, and
fiercely did La Ronde " sacre." The buffalo were gone,
no more to be seen, and small was the pemmican
remaining in the camp. Far away in the distance the
frightened bulls began to slacken their pace, and at
last commenced slowly walkmg and feeding along.
The only chance remaining was to try and come up
with them again, and the disappointed hunters set off
in pursuit at a run, carefully screening themselves
from observation. After about two hours' hard work,
they succeeded in getting before them, and lying con
cealed in their path, killed two as they passed slowly by.
It was now nearly dark, and the party were three
or four miles from camp. It was impossible to fetch
the horses and sleighs, and carry the meat back that
night, and if the carcasses were left, the wolves would
pick the bones clean by morning. There was there
fore, no choice but to camp on the spot for the night.

BELATED  A COLD NIGHT'S WATCH. 91
But little shelter could be found, and the only wood
was a few dry poplar saplings.
The two dead buffalo lay some 200 yards apart,
and placing a gun and powder-horn against one to
scare away the wolves, they lighted a small fire near
the other, and proceeded to take off his hide, and
cook steaks for supper. By this time night had quite
closed in, and a strong north wind blew icily cold,
piercing the single flannel shirts of the unfortunate
hunters like gauze. Bitterly did they now repent
having left shirts and capotes behind; for the prospect
of spending the long winter night with the ther
mometer below zero, and without shelter or proper
fire, was unpleasant enough.
All the. wood that could be found — a very scanty
supply — was collected to replenish the tiny fire, the
snow scraped away, and willows cut and strewn for
a couch. The raw buffalo hide was divided into
two, and Cheadle made himself very small to creep
under one half, while La Ronde and Misquapamayoo
huddled together under the other. The reeking hide
was deligbtfully warm, and the weary travellers were
soon sound asleep. But their comfort was, alas ! of
short duration. Before long, the sleepers awoke half
frozen and benumbed in every limb. The scanty
coverlet, so soft and warm at first, had quickly frozen
hard as stone, and formed an arch over the recumbent
bodies, through which the keen winter wind rushed
bike the draught under the arch of a bridge.
Sleep was out of the question, and kicking aside
their deceitful protection, the shivering trio stamped

92 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
restlessly to and fro, cherishing with sparing hand the
miserable fire, or cooking strips of meat to while away
the dreary hours, watching anxiously the voyageur's
clock, " Great Orion," which " sloped," as it seemed,
very, very " slowly to the west." He did get through
his journey at last, however ; and when the wolves
proclaimed the dawn with the usual chorus of howls,
La Ronde and the boy started back to fetch the
sleighs, whilst Cheadle went in pursuit of a buffalo
which had been severely wounded the night before.
After hunting several days with tolerable success,
the sleighs were loaded with meat, and the party
turned their faces homewards. But their adventures
were not yet over. Several bands of buffalo were
descried close at hand, and it was resolved to have
one more day's hunting before returning to La Belle
Prairie. The character of the country, which was
undulating, with scattered patches of small timber,
was very favourable for stalking, and a small band
was successfully approached within some forty yards.
They were lying asleep in a little hollow, and Cheadle
agreed to wait ensconced behind a hillock, whilst
the other two crept round to approach them on the
opposite side.
Long he waited, peering over the brow of the hill
through the long grass, and anxiously watching in
vain for some sign that the others had reached their
post. Presently one of the bulls got up and stretched
himself, but did not appear disturbed. Cheadle,
unwilling to spoil the chance of the others, still
forbore to shoot, and as he lay and waited, began to

CHEADLE S WITS WOOL-GATHERING. 93
dream ; thoughts of home, and old familiar scenes and
faces took possession of his brain ;
" Old wishes, ghosts of broken plans,
And phantom hopes assemble;"
and La Ronde, buffalo and all, were completely for
gotten. Suddenly he was aroused from his reverie by
a great shouting of " Tir done ! tir, Docteur ! tir-r,
sacre ! tonnerre ! tir-r-r ! " and there were the buffalo
rushing by as hard as they could tear, with La Ronde
and Misquapamayoo running after them, blazing
away as rapidly as they could load. They fired
at random, and without effect, but Cheadle, more
deliberate, wounded one badly in the body, which
pulled up for a moment, and then followed behind
the rest.
La Ronde, utterly disgusted, refused to follow
them, and vowed that never again would he lead the
absent-minded Cheadle up to buffalo. He declared
that he had waited a full half hour, expecting him to
shoot, and then being impatient, he whistled softly ;
one of the bulls arose, presenting his broadside ; and
he thought that surely that fine chance would be
taken. Again he waited a long time, and then waved
his cap as a signal to fire, but in vain. At last, in a
fit of despair and rage, he jumped up and shouted as
before related.
After a short rest, and having somewhat recovered
their equanimity, they again set out, and soon
observed a herd of twelve feeding, still undisturbed.
As they had already nearly enough meat, it was
agreed to give the boy a chance, and he accordingly

94 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
crept up to them alone, whilst the rest lay in wait for
a chance as they passed. But the young one missed
his mark, and the herd went off in the wrong direc
tion, out of the reach of the two in ambush.
Ill luck ruled the day, but La Ronde said, " Try
it again ;" and as the last herd had not fairly seen
their enemies, they pulled up about a mile distant,
and began to feed slowly along. After alternately
racing at full speed, when out of view, and crawhng
stealthily over exposed places for miles, continually
finding the animals had moved off by the time the
place where they were last seen was reached, the
hunters succeeded in ensconcing themselves behind a
hillock on the other side of which the buffalo were
feeding, and moving on round the base toward them.
It was now La Ronde's turn to have the first shot,
and as soon as the fore-quarters of the leader of the
band moved slowly into view, some twenty yards
off, he fired. As the animal did not drop instantly,
Cheadle, who was determined not to return empty-
handed after all, and had covered him carefully,
dropped him with a second shot behind the shoulder.
La Ronde was highly indignant at his conduct, and
declared it was unsportsmanlike, but was much cha
grined to find, on cutting up the animal, that his own
shot had merely passed through the shoulder-blade
without breaking it, and the animal would doubtless
have escaped but for the second bullet, which passed
through the heart. This beast proved a splendid
young bull of three years old, with a magnificent
skin, and a mane with hair half a yard in length.

LOST ON THE PRAIRIE AT NIGHT. 95
Before the animal was cut up, and the meat packed
on the horses, which they had this time brought with
them, night had already come on.
The chase had led them six or seven miles from
camp, and the young moon had nearly gone down. La
Ronde, however, pressed confidently forward, although
it seemed impossible to find the way in the dark
through a country of such uniform character. After
travelling several hours, he stopped all at once, and
be'gan striking sparks with flint and steel, to enable
him to see the old track near the camp. It could not
be found, however, although La Ronde very positively
asserted that it must be close at hand, and the camp
itself within a few hundred yards of the place where
they stood. La Ronde had steered his course entirely
by the stars, and judged by the direction, and time,
and rate of travelling, that they must be close to their
destination. All were impressed with the idea that
the camp lay to the right, and a divergence was made
for a few hundred yards in that direction; but no
landmarks could be made out, and it was resolved to
camp for the night in a copse of small poplars. A
pack of wolves kept up a continual howling, snapping,
and growling at a little distance to the left, and
Cheadle was very anxious to move there, thinking it
probable that they were quarrelling over the meat
that had been left packed on the sledges in the camp.
But La Ronde dissuaded him, saying he was sure the
camp lay to the right, and the wolves would not dare
to enter so soon a place strewed with blankets and
other property of men.

96 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
The night was bright and very cold, and the fire
miserably small, the only dry wood to be found being
a few dead saplings of aspen, the size of pea-rods.
Blankets and buffalo robes had been left in the old
camp, and the hunters were little better off than they
had been a few nights before. The covering this time
was a large waterproof sheet, which had been brought
to roll up meat in, and was, if possible, less efficient
than the raw hide had been. The moisture of the
breath condensed and froze in cakes inside the sheet,
and all advantage from sleeping with head under the
covering was thus lost. As in the previous adventure,
sleep was not to be obtained, and the similar weary-
watch for daylight, stamping about, mending the tiny
fire, and observing the progress of Orion, and listening
to the snapping and growling of the wolves, seemed
interminable. Since, however, it was nearly midnight when the
search for the camp was given up, the season of misery-
lasted, in reality, little more than half as long as
before, although, for its duration, the hardship was
quite as severe.
At daybreak La Ronde reconnoitred, and dis
covered that the camp was within 300 or 400 yards
to the left ; and, when approached, showed ominous
marks of disorder. The wolves had been dividing the
spoils, as Cheadle shrewdly suspected. The whole of
Misquapamayoo's little store, consisting of choice
morsels, which he had prepared and packed with
nicest care, was gone, and nearly the whole of one
sleigh load beside. The new supply, however, almost

TRAVELLING HOME. 97
made up for the loss ; and the horses were therefore
at once harnessed to the sleighs, and all speed made
for Fort Milton once more.
The journey home was slow and tedious. Al
though there had been no regular thaw, the warm sun
had melted the snow on the hill sides and southern
slopes, and the labour of dragging the loaded sleighs
over the bare ground was so harassing to the horses,
that but short stages could be made, and those at a slow
pace. At one point the way lay across a large lake.
The snow on this had almost entirely disappeared, and
the horses fell so continually over the bare ice, that
the attempt to take them across was obliged to be
abandoned. Misquapamayoo's Lilliputian steed in
particular, whose feet were small as those of a deer,
was utterly unable to stand on the slippery surface,
and for a long time it seemed as if the only chance of
getting him off again would be to drag him to terra
firma by the tail. The horses had now to be taken out
of the sleighs, which were drawn by hand across the
lake, and a road cut through the woods which skirted
the banks, whereby the horses were led round to the
further side. This operation occupied a whole
morning, and it was not until the evening of the fifth
day of travelling that the party reached La Belle
Prairie, after an absence of twelve days.
One little incident of the journey home serves to
illustrate the rough and ready manner of proceeding
characteristic of the voyageurs. One of the sleighs in
passing along the side of a steep hill, upset, over
turning with it the horse, who lay helplessly on his

98 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
back, with his legs kicking in the air. Cheadle was
proceeding to unharness him; but La Ronde cried,
" Ah ! non, Monsieur, pas besoin ;" and both lifting
together, they sent horse and sleigh rolling over and
over down the hill, until at last they came right side
up, and the train proceeded.
Great was the delight of Milton and Bruneau at
the happy return, and Keenamontiayoo and some
Indians who were at the house were not slow to assist
in the feast of fresh meat, which lasted far into the
night, the party from the plains enjoying, on their
part, the luxury of bread.
Truly the pleasures of eating are utterly unknown
in civilised life.

CHAPTER VII.
Trapping — The Fur-Bearing Animals — Value of different Furs — The
Trapper's Start into the Forest — How to make a Marten Trap —
Steel Traps for Wolves and Foxes — The Wolverine — The Way he
gets a Living — His Destructiveness and Persecution of the
Trapper — His Cunning — His Behaviour when caught in a Trap —
La Ronde's Stories of the Carcajou — The Trapper's Life — The
Vast Forest in Winter — Sleeping Out — The Walk of Indians and
Half-breeds — Their Instinct in the Woods — The Wolverine De
molishes our Traps — Attempts to Poison Him — Treemiss's Arrival
— He relates his Adventures — A Scrimmage in the Dark — The
Giant Tamboot — His Fight with Atahk-akoohp — Prowess of Tam
boot — Decide to send our Men to Red River for Supplies — Delays.
The supply of meat which we had obtained being
sufficient for some time, we stored it up on the plat
form out of doors, to be preserved by the frost, and
turned our attention to trappmg in the woods. Our
attempts had hitherto been confined to setting a few
small steel traps round the lake, and placing poisoned
baits for the wolves. But we were now desirous to
fly at higher game, and, far in the depths of the vast
pine forest, seek trophies sure to be gratefully received
when presented to dear friends of the fair sex at home.
The animals which furnish the valuable furs from this
region are the silver and cross foxes, the fisher, marten,
otter, mink, and lynx — whilst amongst those of less
worth are the wolverine, beaver, ermine, and musk-
n 2

100 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
rat. The beaver was formerly found in great numbers,
and its peltry highly prized ; but from the assiduity
with which it was hunted, it has now become com
paratively scarce ; and from the substitution of silk for
beaver skin in the manufacture of hats, the latter has
become almost worthless. Of all furs, with the single
exception of the sea-otter, which is found only on
the Pacific coast, the silver fox commands the highest
price. The fur of the silver fox is of a beautiful
grey ; the white hairs, which predominate, being tipped
with black, and mixed with others of pure black. A
well-matched pair of silver fox skins are worth from
£80 to £100. The cross foxes, so called from the dark
stripe down the back, with a cross over the shoulders
like that on a donkey, vary in every degree between
the silver and the common red fox ; and the value of
their skins varies in the same ratio. After the best
cross foxes come the fisher, the marten, and the mink.
These three are all animals of the pole-cat tribe, and
both in size and value may be classed in the order in
which they have been mentioned. The skin of a fisher
fetches from sixteen shillings to thirty shillings ; a
marten, fifteen shillings to twenty- three shillings ; and
a mink, from ten shillings to fifteen shillings. The
otter, which is less common than the two last named,
commands a price of one shilling an inch, measured
from the head to the tip of the tail. The ermine is
exceedingly common in the forests of the North- West,
and is a nuisance to the trapper, destroying the baits
set for the marten and fisher. It is generally con
sidered of too little value to be the object of the

THE TRAPPERS START INTO THE FOREST. 101
trapper's pursuit. The black bear is also occasionally
discovered in his winter's hole, and his skin is worth
about forty shillings. The lynx is by no means un
common, and generally taken by snares of hide. When
caught, he remains passive and helpless, and is easily
knocked on the head by the hunter. The other deni
zens of the forest are the moose, and smaller game,
such as the common wood partridge, or willow grouse,
the pine partridge, the rabbit, and the squirrel. By
far the most numerous of the more valuable fur
animals in this region are the marten and the mink,
and to the capture of the former of these two — the
sable of English furriers — the exertions of the trapper
are principally directed. At the beginning of Novem
ber, when the animals have got their winter coats, and
fur is "in season," the trapper prepares his pack,
which he makes in the following manner : — -Folding
his blanket double, he places in it a lump of pemmi
can, sufficient for five or six days' consumption, a tin
kettle and cup, and, if he is rich, some steel traps, and
a little tea and salt. The blanket is then tied at the
four corners, and slung on the back by a band across
the chest. A gun and ammunition, axe, knife, and
fire-bag, complete his equipment. Tying on a pair of
snow-shoes, he starts alone into the gloomy woods —
trudging silently forward — for the hunter or trapper
can never lighten the solitude of his journey by
whistling or a song. His keen eye scans every mark
upon the snow for the tracks he seeks. When he
observes the footprints of marten or fisher, he un-
slings his pack, and sets to work to construct a

102 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
"dead fall," or wooden trap, after the following
manner. Having cut down a number of saplings,
these are divided into stakes of about a yard in
length, which are driven into the ground so as to
form a palisade, in the shape of half an oval, cut
transversely. Across the entrance to this little en
closure, which is of a length to admit about two-
thirds of the animal's body, and too narrow to admit
of its fairly entering in and turning round, a short
log is laid. A tree of considerable size is next felled,
denuded of its branches, and so laid that it rests upon
the log at the entrance in a parallel direction. The
bait, which is generally a bit of tough dried meat,
or a piece of a partridge or squirrel, is placed on the
point of a short stick. This is projected horizontally
into the enclosure, and on the external end of it rests
another short stick, placed perpendicularly, which
supports the large tree laid across the entrance. The
top of the trap is then covered in with bark and
branches, so that the only means of access to the bait
is by the opening between the propped-up tree and
the log beneath. When the bait is seized, the tree
falls down upon the animal and crushes him to death.
An expert trapper will make forty or fifty traps
in a single day.
The steel traps resemble our ordinary rat-traps,
but have no teeth, and the springs are double. In
the large traps used for beavers, foxes, and wolves,
these have to be made so powerful that it requires
all the force of a strong man to set them. They
are placed in the snow, and carefully covered over;

*..i— "* .r! H W

A MAKTEN TRAP.

(Peerage 102.)

THE WOLVERINE  "THE EVIL ONE." 103
fragments of meat are scattered about, and the place
smoothed down, so as to leave no trace. To the
trap is attached a chain, with a ring at the free ex
tremity, through which a stout stake is passed, and
left otherwise unattached. When an animal is caught
— generally by the leg, as he digs in the snow for the
hidden morsels — he carries off the trap for a short
distance, but is soon brought up by the stake getting
entangled across the trees and fallen timber, and is
rarely able to travel any great distance before being
discovered by the trapper.
The fur-hunter's greatest enemy is the North
American glutton, or, as he is commonly called, the
wolverine or carcajou. This curious animal is rather
larger than an English fox, with a long body, stoutly
and compactly made, mounted on exceedingly short
legs of great strength. His broad feet are armed
with powerful claws, and his track in the snow is as
large as the print of a man's fist. The shape of his
head, and his hairy coat, give him very much the
appearance of a shaggy brown dog.
During the winter months he obtains a livelihood
by availing himself of the labours of the trapper, and
such serious injury does he inflict, that he has
received from the Indians the name of Kekwaharkess,
or the " Evil One." With untiring perseverance he
hunts day and night for the trail of man, and when it
i6 found follows it unerringly. When he comes to a
lake, where the track is generally drifted over, he
continues his untiring gallop round its borders, to
discover the point at which it again enters the woods,

104 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and again follows it until he arrives at one of the wooden
traps. Avoiding the door, he speedily tears open an
entrance at the back, and seizes the bait with im
punity ; or if the trap contains an animal, he drags it
out, and, with wanton malevolence, mauls it and hides
it at some distance in the underwood, or at the top of
some lofty pine. Occasionally, when hard pressed by
hungrer, he devours it. In this manner he demolishes
the whole series of traps, and when once a wolverine
has established himself on a trapping-walk, the
hunter's only chance for success is to change ground
and build a fresh lot of traps, trusting to secure a few
furs before the new path is found out by his indus
trious enemy.
Strange stories are related by the trappers of the
extraordinary cunning of this animal, which they
believe to possess a wisdom almost human. He is
never caught by the ordinary " dead fall." Occasion
ally one is poisoned, or caught in a steel trap ; but
his strength is so great, that many traps strong
enough to hold securely a large wolf will not retain
the wolverine. When caught in this way, he does
not, like the fox and the mink, proceed to amputate
the limb, but, assisting to carry the trap with his
mouth, makes all haste to reach a lake or river, where
he can hasten forward at speed, unobstructed by trees
and fallen wood. After travelling far enough to be
tolerably safe from pursuit for a time, he devotes
himself to the extrication of the imprisoned limb, in
which he not unfrequently succeeds. The wolverine
is also sometimes killed by a gun, placed bearing on a

STORIES OF THE WOLVERINE. 105
bait, to which is attached a string communicating
with the trigger. La Ronde assured us most solemnly
that on several occasions the carcajou had been far too
cunning for him, first approaching the gun and gnaw
ing in two the cord communicating with the trigger,
and then securely devouring the bait.
In one instance, when every device to deceive his
persecutor had been at once seen through, and utterly
futile, he adopted the plan of placing the gun in a
tree, with the muzzle pointing vertically downwards
upon the bait. This was suspended from a branch,
at such a height that the animal could not reach it
without jumping. The gun was fastened high up in
the tree, completely screened from view by the
branches. Now, the wolverine is an animal troubled
with exceeding curiosity. He investigates every
thing ; an old moccasin thrown aside in the bushes,
or a knife lost in the snow, are ferreted out and
examined, and anything suspended almost out of
reach generally offers an irresistible temptation. But
in the case related by La Ronde the carcajou restrained
his curiosity and hunger for the time, climbed the
tree, cut the cords which bound the gun, which
thus tumbled harmless to the ground, and then,
descending, secured the bait without danger. Poison
and all kinds of traps having already failed, La Ronde
was fairly beaten and driven off the ground.
For the truth of this particular story we, of course,
do not pretend to vouch, but would merely observe
that our own subsequent experience fully proved the
wolverine to be an animal of wonderful sagacity

106 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and resource ; and that, supposing the gun to have
been set, and afterwards found cut down as related,
there is little doubt that La Ronde interpreted the
mode of procedure with perfect correctness. An
Indian or half-breed reads the signs left behind as
easily and truly as if he had been present and wit
nessed the whole transaction. In other instances,
where we have had ample opportunities of judging,
we never detected a mistake in their reading of the
language of tracks — marks left printed on that
book the hunter reads so well, the face of Nature.
Until nearly the end of December we employed
ourselves by accompanying La Ronde on his trapping
expeditions. We were taught to distinguish the
track of every animal found in the forest, and learnt
much of their habits and peculiarities. Cheadle was
especially fascinated by this branch of the hunter's
craft, and pursued it with such diligence and success,
that he was very soon able to make a trap and set it
almost as quickly and skilfully as his accomplished
preceptor, La Ronde. There is something strangely
attractive in the life, in spite of the hardships and
fatigues which attend it. The long, laborious march,
loaded with a heavy pack, and cumbered with a
quantity of thick clothing, through snow and woods
beset with fallen timber and underwood, is fatiguing
enough. The only change is the work of making the
traps, or the rest at night in camp. Provisions
usually fall short, and the trapper subsists, in great
measure, upon the flesh of the animals captured to
obtain the fur. But, on the other hand, the grand

OUT IN THE WOODS IN WINTER. 107
beauty of the forest, whose pines, some of which tower
up above 200 feet in height, are decked and wreathed
with snow, and where no sound is heard, except the
occasional chirrup of a squirrel, or the explosions of
trees cracking with intense frost, excites admiration
and stimulates curiosity. The intense stillness and
solitude, the travelling day after day through endless
woods without meeting a sign of man, and rarely
seeing a living creature, strikes very strangely on the
mind at first. The half-breed trapper delights in wan
dering alone in the forest ; but Cheadle, who tried the
experiment for two days, found the silence and loneli
ness so oppressive as to be quite unbearable.
The interest in the pursuit was constantly kept up
by the observation of tracks, the interpretation of their
varied stories, and the account of the different habits
of the animals as related by our companion. There
is also no small amount of excitement in visiting the
traps previously made, to see whether they contain the
looked-for prize, or whether all the fruits of hard labour
have been destroyed by the vicious wolverine.
At night, lying on a soft, elastic couch of pine
boughs, at his feet a roaring fire of great trees heaped
high, from which rises an enormous column of smoke
and steam from the melted snow, the trapper, rolled
up in his blanket, sleeps in peace. Sometimes, how
ever, when the cold is very intense, or the wind blows
strongly, a single blanket is but poor protection. The
huge fire is inadequate to prevent the freezing of one
extremity, while it scorches the other, and sleep is
impossible, or, if obtained, quickly broken by an aching

108 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
cold in every limb as the fire burns low. On these
winter nights the Northern Lights were often very
beautiful. Once or twice we observed them in the
form of a complete arch, like a rainbow of roseate
hues, from which the changing, fitful gleams streamed
up to meet at the zenith.
After we had been out a day or two, our provisions
generally came to an end, and we lived on partridges
and the animals we trapped. As soon as the skins of
the martens and fishers were removed, their bodies
were stuck on the end of a stick, and put to roast
before the fire, looking like so many skewered cats.
These animals not only smell uncommonly like a ferret,
but their flesh is of an intensely strong and disgusting
flavour, exactly corresponding to the odour, so that a
very strong stomach and good appetite is required to
face such a meal. The trapper's camp in the woods is
always attended by the little blue and white magpie,
who, perched on a bough close by, waits for his portion
of scraps from the meal. These birds invariably " turn
up" immediately after camp is made, and are so tame
and bold that they will even steal the meat out of the
cooking-pot standing by the fire.
The snow was at this time not more than eight
inches deep, and we did not as yet use snow-shoes in
the woods, where the brushwood and fallen timber
rendered them somewhat awkward encumbrances. But
the walkmg was consequently very fatiguing, and we
reached home, after five or six days' absence, invariably
very much wearied and jaded. On these excursions
we were much struck, amongst other things, with the

an Indian's walk. 109
great difference between the walk of an Indian or half-
breed and our own. We had before observed that,
when apparently sauntermg quietly along, they went
past us with the greatest ease, even when we flattered
ourselves we were going at a very respectable pace.
This was now, in a great measure, explained. In
walking in the snow, in Indian file, we observed La
Ronde's great length of stride ; and Cheadle, in parti
cular, who prided himself upon his walking powers, was
much chagrined to find that he could not tread in La
Ronde's footsteps without springing from one to the
next. Afterwards he discovered that his longest
stride was only just equal to that of the little Misqua-
pamayoo !
The superiority of the Indian in this respect,
doubtless, results from the habitual use of moccasins,
which allow full play to the elastic bend of the foot.
This is impeded by the stiff sole of an ordinary boot.
The muscles of an Indian's foot are so developed, that
it appears plump and chubby as that of a child.
Misquapamayoo continually derided the scraggy ap
pearance of our pedal extremities, and declared there
must be something very faulty in their original con
struction. The unerring fidelity with which our guide followed
a straight course in one direction in the dense forest,
where no landmarks could be seen, in days when the
sun was not visible, nor a breath of air stirring, seemed
to us almost incomprehensible. La Ronde was unable
to explain the power which he possessed, and considered
it as quite a natural faculty. Cheadle, on the other

110 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
hand, found it quite impossible to preserve a straight
course, and invariably began to describe a circle, by
bearing continually towards the left ; and this weak
ness was quite incomprehensible to La Ronde, who
looked upon it as the most arrant stupidity.
Hitherto no wolverine had annoyed us, and we
succeeded in accumulating a nice collection of furs.
But at last, when starting to visit our walk, we
observed the tracks of one of very large size, which
had followed our trail, and La Ronde at once declared,
" C'est fini, monsieur ; il a casse toutes notres etrappes,
vous allez voir : " and sure enough, as we came to each
in succession, we found it broken open at the back,
the bait taken, and, where an animal had been caught,
it was carried off. Throughout the whole line every
one had been demolished, and we discovered the tails
of no less than ten martens, the bodies of which had
apparently been devoured by the hungry and success
ful carcajou. We had on a former occasion suspended small
poisoned baits, wrapped in old moccasins or other
covering, on the bushes at different points. One of
these the wolverine had pulled down, unwrapped it,
and bitten the bait in two. Terrified at the discovery
that it was poisoned, he had rushed away at full speed
from the dangerous temptation. It was useless to set
the traps again, and we thereupon returned home dis
consolate, La Ronde cursing, with all his might, " le
sacre* carcajou."
One day the crows, which always announced the
presence of any one on the lake by a tremendous

THE GIANT TAMBOOT. Ill
cawing, gave their usual signal of an arrival. Going
out on to the lake, we saw several sleighs advancing
across it, the bells on the harness jingling merrily in
the frosty air, as the dogs galloped along. Our
visitors proved to be Treemiss and a party from the
Fort, on a trading expedition amongst the Wood
Crees. Treemiss had met with various adventures since
we had last seen him, and in one instance was in some
danger of losing his life. Atahk-akoohp, the hunter,
came one evening, with several others, into his hut,
all half drunk, and importuned him to trade for furs.
Vexed by Treemiss's refusal to do so, he threw a
marten-skin violently into his face. Irritated by the
insult, Treemiss struck him with his fist. In an
instant all was uproar and confusion ; knives flashed
out, the candle was kicked over and extinguished, and
all were groping and stabbing at Treemiss in the
dark. Summarily upsetting an Indian who opposed
his passage, he made for his gun, which lay near the
door, seized it, and made good his escape outside, not,
however, before receiving several slight cuts and stabs
through his clothes.
He waited, gun in hand, ready for his assailants,
listening with anxiety to a terrible commotion which
was going on inside. Atahk-akoohp, the aggressor,
a man of lofty stature and powerful build, he knew
to be savage in the extreme when aroused. But he
had a friend within. He had shown much kindness
to a half-breed named Tamboot, a man of still more
gigantic build and strength than Atahk-akoohp, and

112 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
this fellow now stepped forth in his might as the
champion of his friend. Seizing the huge form of
Atahk-akoohp, he raised him in his arms like a child,
and dashed him on the floor with such violence, that
he lay almost senseless, and was so much injured that
for above a week afterwards he was unable to leave his
bed ; then, declaring he would serve each in turn in
the same manner, if they offered to lay a hand on his
benefactor, he made the rest sullenly retire. Tamboot
had previously killed two of his enemies by sheer
exertion of force, without using a weapon ; and his
reputation for courage and strength stood so high,
that none dared to interfere, and thus peace was once
more restored.
Our stock of flour and tea having by this time
become exceedingly low, and as but a small quantity
of the latter only could be obtained at Carlton, we
decided to send the men back to Red River for a
supply of these necessaries required for our journey
forwards in the spring. We accordingly engaged the
Indian hunter, Keenamontiayoo, and his boy, Misqua-
pamayoo, to assist us in hunting, and perform any
services we might require during their absence.
Some delay, however, occurred before this plan could
be put into execution, owing to the illness of La
Ronde. During this time we were all detained at
home, and the days passed by in somewhat dreary
monotony.

CHAPTER VIII.
Milton visits Carlton — Fast Travelling — La Ronde and Bruneau set
out for Fort Garry — Trapping with Misquapamayoo — Machina
tions against the Wolverine — The Animals' Fishery — The Wol
verine Outwits us — Return Home — The Cree Language — How an
Indian tells a Story — New Tear's Day among the Crees — To the
Prairies again — The Cold — Travelling with Dog-sleighs — Out in
the Snow — Our New Attendants — Prospect of Starvation — A
Day of Expectation — A Rapid Retreat — The Journey Home —
Indian Voracity — Res Augusta Domi — Cheadle's Journey to the
Fort — Perversity of his Companions — " The Hunter" yields to
Temptation — Milton's Visit to Kekek-ooarsis — A Medicine Feast
— The New Song — Cheadle's Journey Home — Isbister and his
Dogs — Mahaygun, " The Wolf "—Pride and Starvation — Our
Meeting at White Fish Lake.
On the morning of the 24th of December, Milton
harnessed our three Indian dogs to the little sleigh,
and set out with Bruneau for the Fort. La Ronde
remained with Cheadle at the hut, engaging to join
the others at Carlton as soon as sufficiently recovered.
Misquapamayoo had also arrived, to commence his
service as attendant on Cheadle. We both spent
our Christmas Eve somewhat drearily — Milton camp
ing in the snow, half-way to Carlton, supping on
pemmican and gallette, and Cheadle, in the hut,
faring likewise ; but the latter, feeling very dismal
and un-Christmaslike, he and La Ronde unearthed

114 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the hidden rum cask, and established a weak convi
viality by the aid of hot punch.
Milton and Bruneau went merrily along on their
way to the Fort. The road had just been well beaten
by the passage of trains to La Crosse ; a slight thaw
had followed, and the track was now frozen hard, so
that the dogs galloped away with the lightly-laden
sleigh at a tremendous pace over the ice. The two
followed at speed, occasionally jumping on to the
sleigh for a time, to gain breath again. But the cold
was too great to allow a very long ride, and running
was soon resumed. They travelled with such expe
dition, that although it was afternoon when they left
the hut, they travelled at least thirty miles before
nightfall, camping beyond the crossing of the Shell
River. Milton, eager beyond measure to arrive at the
Fort in time to share the Christmas festivities, arose
in the middle of the night, and succeeded in con
vincing Bruneau that it was nearly daybreak. They
therefore harnessed the dogs and started again. To
their surprise, the moon rose instead of the sun, but
they kept on their way, and daybreak appeared after
several hours. They arrived at Carlton just in time
to sit down to Mr. Lillie's Christmas dinner, having
accomplished the journey of eighty miles in the
wonderfully short time of twenty-six hours. Plum
pudding and a bottle of sherry graced the board, and
were both done full justice to by the company.
La Ronde came in on the 27th, and on the follow
ing day set out with Bruneau on their distant journey.
They took with them two dog-sleighs, and the beat

LITTLE MISQUAPAMAYOO. 115
train of dogs to be obtained at Carlton. The pro
vision they expected to bring was four sacks of flour
and thirty or forty pounds of tea ; and the journey of
600 miles and back would occupy at least two
months. The snow was now so deep that a track
would require to be trodden out with snow-shoes to
enable the dogs to travel, and the undertaking was
certain to be very laborious. The route they intended
to take was by Touchwood Hills and Fort Pelly on
to the Manitobah Lake, and thence to Fort Garry.
Cheadle, now left with only the Indian boy,
went off into the woods to make another attempt to
circumvent his ancient enemy, the wolverine. With
pack slung on his back, gun on shoulder, and axe in
belt, little Misquapamayoo stalked along to lead the
way, with all the dignity and confidence of a practised
hunter. No track or sign escaped his observant eye,
and he made and set traps, ananged the camp, cut
wood, and cooked meals, with the readiness and skill
of an old trapper. The heavier work of wood-
chopping and the weightier pack fell, of course, to
Cheadle's share ; but Misquapamayoo was indefatigable
in performing everything in his power, and this was
by no means contemptible, for he could carry weights
and use an axe in a manner which would have sur
prised an English boy of the same age. He assumed
an air of grave superiority over his companion in all
things relating to the hunter's or voyageur's craft
which was very amusing, although certainly justified
by the facts of the case.
The two spent their time in the woods merrily
I 2

116 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
enough, for it was impossible to be dull with such a
lively, light-hearted companion as Misquapamayoo.
This may perhaps be thought strange when it is stated
that Cheadle, when he set out, did not know more
than two or three words of the Cree language. Yet
this very circumstance was a prolific source of amuse
ment, and nothing delighted the boy more than to
instruct his companion, falling into fits of laughter at
his mispronunciations and mistakes. The easy manner
in which communication was carried on between
the two, each ignorant of the other's language, was
very astonishing. But Misquapamayoo appeared to
divine by instinct what was required, and it seemed
difficult to believe at first that he really did not under
stand a word of English. The perceptions of an
Indian are so nice, his attention so constantly on the
alert, and his conclusions so rapidly formed, that he
draws inferences from general signs with great readi
ness and accuracy.
The wolverine had renewed his visits along the
line of traps, and broken all which had been re
constructed, devouring the animals which had been
caught. Cheadle now adopted a device which he
flattered himself would catch the enemy in his own
toils. All the broken traps were repaired and set
again, and poisoned baits substituted for the ordinary
ones in the traps — not in every instance, but here and
there along the line.
The forest in which we hunted commenced on the
further side of our lake, stretching away to the north
apparently indefinitely. This was broken only by

THE ANIMALS' FISHERY. 117
numerous lakes and swamps, and patches of timber
which had been burnt. The lakes are always sought
by the trapper, not only because they enable him to
travel more rapidly, and penetrate further into the less
hunted regions, but also because the edges of the lakes,
and the portages between them, are favourite haunts
of the fox, the fisher, and the mink. On one of these
lakes a curious circumstance was observed. The lake
was about half a mile in length, and of nearly equal
breadth, but of no great depth. The water had seem
ingly frozen to the bottom, except at one end, where
a spring bubbled up, and a hole of about a yard in
diameter existed in the covering of ice, which was there
only a few inches thick. The water in this hole was
crowded with myriads of small fish, most of them not
much larger than a man's finger, and so closely packed
that they could not move freely. On thrusting in an
arm, it seemed like plunging it into a mass of thick stir
about. The snow was beaten down all round hard and
level as a road, by the numbers of animals which flocked
to the Lenten feast. Tracks converged from every
side. Here were the footprints of the cross or silver fox,
delicately impressed in the snow as he trotted daintily
along with light and airy tread ; the rough marks of
the clumsier fisher ; the clear, sharply-defined track of
the active mink ; and the great coarse trail of the ever-
galloping, ubiquitous wolverine. Scores of crows
perched on the trees around, sleepily digesting their
frequent meals. Judging by the state of the snow and
collection of dung, the consumption must have gone on
for weeks, yet the supply seemed as plentiful as ever.

118 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
This circumstance afforded an explanation of .the
fact that many of the rivers and fresh-water lakes in
this country are destitute of fish, as all but the
deeper ones freeze to the bottom, and therefore any
fish they contained would be destroyed.
When the trappers turned homewards they found
that the wolverine had followed them closely. On the
ground which they had passed over on the previous
day, every trap was already demolished and the
baits abstracted. Cheadle fondly imagined that at
last his enemy was outwitted and destroyed, but
Misquapamayoo's sharper eyes discovered each of
the baits which had been poisoned, lying close at
hand, bitten in two and rejected, whilst all the
others had disappeared. The baits had been made
with great care, the strychnine being inserted into
the centre of the meat by a small hole, and when
frozen it was impossible to distinguish any difference
in appearance between them and the harmless ones.
It seemed as if the animal suspected poison, and bit
in two and tasted every morsel before swallowing it.
The baits had purposely been made very small, so
that in the ordinary course they would have been
bolted whole. That the same wolverine had fre
quented our path from the first, we knew perfectly
well, for he was one of unusually large size, as
shown by his tracks, which were readily distinguish
able from the others we observed from time to time.
On the 28th of December, Milton left Carlton,
and resting one night at Treemiss's hut, arrived the
following day at La Belle Prairie. Cheadle and Mis-

THE CREE LANGUAGE. 119
quapamayoo had come in just before, and a very plea
sant evening was spent in talking over all that had
happened during the separation.
Associating entirely with Indians until the return
of our men, we rapidly picked up the Cree language,
and in the course of a few weeks could speak it
fluently if not grammatically. Nothing is easier than
to get a decent smattering of Cree, although the
construction of the language is extremely intricate.
The name of many articles is the explanation of their
use or properties, the word being a combination of a
participle and noun, the latter generally the word
gun, " a thing ;" as parslcisi-gun, a " shooting thing ;"
miniquachi-gun, a " drinking thing" or cup. This
also appears in their proper names, which are gene
rally descriptions of some personal peculiarity ; as in
the names Kekek-ooarsis and Keenamontiayoo, which
have been mentioned before. The consonants d,f, and I
are not found in the Cree alphabet, and the Indians
find great difficulty in pronouncing the two first when
trying to use English words. The appropriate ges
tures and expressive pantomime with which an Indian
illustrates his speech, render it easy to understand.
We soon learnt to mterpret without much difficulty
the long hunting stories with which Keenamontiayoo
whiled away the evenings in our hut. The scene
described was partly acted ; the motions of the game,
the stealthy approach of the hunter, the taking aim,
the shot, the cry of the animal, or the noise of its
dashing away, and the pursuit, were all given as the
tale went on.

120 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
We had arranged with Keenamontiayoo to
start with him in a few days for the plains, intending
to pay a visit to a small camp of Wood Crees, who
we had heard were hunting buffalo about eighty miles
off. We were, however, astonished on the evening of
the last day of the year, by the arrival not only of
the Hunter, but Kekek-ooarsis also, with their wives,
children, and relatives. They seemed very much
delighted with themselves, and were very complimen
tary to us. All quietly settled down and began to
smoke. It was plain they intended to stay some
time with us. As our room was so extremely small,
we found it inconvenient to accommodate so many
visitors, but all our efforts to understand their ex
planations were in vain, and we had to make the best
of it. On the following morning we were somewhat
enlightened. At daybreak the men got up, and fired
off a great many shots in honour of the new year.
Then ensued a general shaking of hands all round,
and a kissing of the women and children. The
latter part of the ceremony we, however, very un-
gallantly omitted. We subsequently learnt that it is
the custom for those who have nothing wherewith
to feast, to visit their friends who may be in greater
plenty ; and our neighbours thought that they could
not do better than with us. As they had come, we
hastened our departure, and set out with Keena
montiayoo and his son, leaving old Kekek-ooarsis and
the women in charge of the house until our return.
We took with us two dog-sleighs, and travelled in

TO THE PLAINS. 121
snow-shoes, for the snow had now become far too
deep to move without them. We had used them for
short distances for some time, and had become
tolerably expert, but found marching all day long in
them very fatiguing at first. The Hunter led the
way, his son followed driving one train of dogs,
and we came next with the other.
After travelling a day and a half, we diverged
from the track that La Ronde had taken, and steered
a point or two more west. The country was, as
before, a mixture of woods, lakes, and patches of
open prairie, somewhat hilly, and difficult for sleighs.
The weather turned intensely cold — far more severe
than any we had before experienced. Light showers
of snow fell in minute particles, as it were frozen
dew, when the sun was shining brightly and the sky
without a cloud. Clothed in three or four flannel
shirts, one of duffel, and a leather shirt; our hands
encased in "mittaines," or large gloves of moose-
skin lined with duffel, made without fingers, large
enough to admit of being easily doffed on occasion,
and carried slung by a band round the neck ; our
feet swathed in bands of duffel, covered by enormous
moccasins; and our ears and necks protected by a
curtain of fur, we were yet hardly able to keep warm
with the most active exercise ; and when we stayed
to camp, shivered and shook as we essayed to Hght
a fire. Masses of ice, the size of a man's fist, formed on
Cheadle's beard and moustache — the only ones in the
company — from the moisture of the breath freezing

122 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
as it passed through the hair. The oil froze in the
pipes we carried about our persons, so that it was
necessary to. thaw them at the fire before they could
be made to draw. The hands could hardly be ex
posed for a moment, except when close to the fire.
A bare finger laid upon iron stuck to it as if glued,
from the instantaneous freezing of its moisture. The
snow melted only close to the fire, which formed a
trench for itself, in which it slowly sank to the level
of the ground. The steam rose in clouds, and in
the coldest, clearest weather, it almost shrouded the
fire from view. The snow was light and powdery,
and did not melt beneath the warmth of the foot, so
that our moccasins were as dry on a journey as if we
had walked through sawdust instead of snow. The
parchment windows of our little hut were so small
and opaque, that we could hardly see even to eat by
their light alone, and were generally obliged to have
the door open; and then, although the room was
very small, and the fire-place very large, a crust of
ice formed over the tea in our tin cups, as we sat
within a yard of the roaring fire. One effect of
the cold was to give a most ravenous appetite for
tat. Many a time have we eaten great lumps of
hard grease — rancid tallow, used for making candles
— without bread or anything to modify it. Q)
(*) Fat seems to be the summv/m bonum in everything, according
to Indian and half-breed tastes. They say, " What a fine horse ! he's
as fat as possible !" " What a fine woman ! how fat she is !" and the
same of men, dogs, and everything. And fat is very important in
that country. It is the most valuable part of food in winter, and
horses and dogs will not stand work in the cold, unless fat.

CAMPING IN THE SNOW. 123
When well sheltered by woods, and with an
enormous fire blazing at our feet, sleeping in the
open air was pleasant enough. Tents are not used
for winter travelling, as the huge fire could not be
made available. On arriving at the ground we
selected for a camp, every one set to work as quickly
as possible. One unharnessed the dogs and unpacked
the sleighs ; another collected dry logs ; a third cut
fine chips, and started the fire ; while the fourth
shovelled away the snow in front of the fire with a
snow-shoe, and strewed the bare ground with pine
branches. Then all squatted down, smoking and
superintending the cooking of supper, the hungry
dogs seated round, waiting anxiously for their share.
A pipe and talk followed, and then each rolled
himself in his blankets or buffalo robe, covering
head and all, placed his feet as near to the fire
as he dare, and slept. All huddled together as closely
as possible, and when silence had reigned some time,
the dogs crept softly in towards the fire, and lay
between us, or at our feet. Before sleeping, however,
it was necessary to secure out of reach of the dogs not
only provisions, but snow-shoes, harness, and every
thing with any skin or leather about it. An Indian
dog will devour almost anything of animal origin,
and invariably eats his own harness, or his master's
snow-shoes, if left within his reach.
Our new attendants showed us the greatest atten
tion, and indeed were extremely proud of serving
the Soniow Okey Mow, and the Muskeeky Okey
Mow, as they had named us, which, being inter-

124 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
preted, signifies the "Great Golden Chief," and
"My Master, the Great Medicine." And we
found constant amusement over our camp-fire at
night in teaching them English words, and learning
Cree. The circumstance that there were some words
which were almost identical in the two languages —
words which had been adopted from one language
into the other — struck them as very ludicrous, and
they never tired of laughing over pemmicarn, " pem
mican ;" muskisin, " moccasin ;" shugow, " sugar ;" and
the like. And when we used wrong words for others
very similar, as we frequently did purposely — calling
the old man Kekek-ooarsis, Kekwaharkosis, or the
" Little Wolverine ;" or an Indian named Gaytchi
Mohkamarn, or "The Big Knife," Matchi Mohka-
marn, "The Evil Knife" — the joke was always
irresistible, and they rolled about and held their sides
in fits of laughter.
On the fourth day after leaving La Belle Prairie,
we reached the camping ground, where we expected
to meet Indians, but found the camp broken up,
and saw by the tracks that the party had dispersed
in various directions. We therefore kept on in a '
straight line for the prairie. The weather had
become colder and colder, and as we passed over
a large lake just before dark, the wind blew so
keenly that our faces ached again, and our teeth
chattered, although we hurried over it into a little
wood as rapidly as the dogs could go. Milton's nose
and cheeks were frost-bitten, and required careful
rubbing to restore them. On the morrow, by the

SHORT COMMONS. 125
Hunter's ' advice, we stayed in camp, while he went
out alone to reconnoitre, and try and kill a buffalo.
Our provisions were by this time reduced to a few
handfuls of flour and a little pemmican — hardly
more than sufficient for that day's consumption.
We had started with a fair supply of white-fish and
pemmican; but six dogs rapidly reduced it. Two
fish a day, or three pounds of pemmican, is the
regular allowance for a sleigh-dog when travelling ;
and the quantity required to satisfy a man in
the cold winter is greater still. We therefore
spent an anxious day, waiting for Keenamontiayoo's
return, wondering whether he would be successful
in obtaining meat. We put ourselves upon short
commons, and the dogs upon still shorter, and even
went to the length of fixing upon one useless, tooth
less old fellow as a victim to our appetites, in case of
extremity. The day wore on slowly and monotonously, the
cold was severe as ever, and we diligently cut and
stacked a large supply of wood for the night fire.
Night closed in around us, and we still watched in
vain for the Hunter, and speculated whether the
delay was a sign of his good luck or the reverse.
Hours of darkness passed away, and yet we Hstened
anxiously, expecting to hear the footfaU of the
returning Indian. Misquapamayoo became very un
easy, and sat silent and absorbed, listening intently
for his father's step, and at last took to firing his gun
at short intervals, to signal our whereabouts. No
answering shot repHed, but about midnight Keena-

126 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
montiayoo appeared, bending beneath a load which,
on nearer view, showed to our gloating eyes the heart,
tongue, and other tit-bits of buffalo. These were
soon cooked and eaten, and over our supper he told
us that he had hunted all day without resting, but
had not found a trace of buffalo. On his return, how
ever, just before dark, he discovered a soHtary bull,
which he kiUed. The cold had so benumbed him
that he was quite unable to cut any meat until he had
made a large fire, and afterwards was detained a long
time covering up the carcase with timber and snow,
to protect it from the wolves.
The next morning we moved camp close to the
dead buffalo, and spent that day in cutting him up,
and collecting a good supply of dry wood, which was
scarce at this place.
The following day we found two more buffalo, and
succeeded in badly wounding one of them. Darkness
came on before we could overtake him, but we found
him next morning, having been puHed down and
partly eaten by the wolves during the night.
At this time Milton's face, which had been frost
bitten two days before, sweUed up with erysipelas
in a most alarming manner. We were 80 or 100
miles from home, without any protection from the
extreme severity of the weather. We decided to
cache a great part of the meat, and travel back to
La Belle Prairie as fast as the dogs could go.
The afternoon was spent in securing the meat
which we were compeUed to leave behind, by en
closing it in a pyramid of logs, against which we

HOME IN A HURRY. 127
heaped a high bank of snow. This, when well
beaten down and frozen, held the timber firmly in
position, and the Hunter declared it perfectly im
pregnable to a whole army of wolves, although a wol
verine would certainly break it open if he found it.
The next morning a light load was placed, on one
sleigh, and on the other Milton, smothered in buffalo
robe and blankets, was securely bound. Keena
montiayoo led the way, the boy followed driving
one sleigh, and Cheadle brought up the rear, in
charge of his patient on the other. The journey
was very harassing and tedious. Our old track had
been completely snowed up, and the wretched dogs
were not equal to the emergency. Shushu, the
leader, was wilHng, but young, thiri, and weak ; the
middle one, Comyun, was aged and asthmatic ; and
the shafter, Kuskitaostaquarn, lame and lethargic.
From morning to night the air resounded with
howHng, and the cries of the drivers anathe
matising Comyun and Kuskitaostaquarn. The
sleighs constantly upset, from running against a
stump or sHpping over a hiU-side; and when we
hauled and strained to right them, the dogs lay
down quietly, looking round at us, and not offering
to pull an ounce to help. When the driver, aggra
vated beyond endurance, rushed up, stick in hand,
and bent on punishment, they made frantic exer
tions, which only made matters worse, resuming
their quiescent attitude the moment he returned to
haul again at the sleigh ; and aU the time the un
fortunate Milton lay bound and helpless, half buried

128 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
in the snow. In spite of all these hardships and
difficulties, he rapidly recovered, and by the time we
reached home, after three and a half days' hard
travelling, was nearly weH.
On our arrival we found, to our surprise, that the
women had made the hut very clean and tidy, but
had consumed all the provision we left behind, and
were, moreover, quite equal to a great feast on the
meat we had brought. We had providentiaUy
locked up a Httle flour, and this was aU that
remained except the buffalo meat.
The Indians now returned to their homes,
taking with them the greater part of the fresh
meat, the Hunter engaging to return in a week
to accompany us on a fresh expedition to the plains.
To our astonishment, however, he appeared on the
third day, in company with Misquapamayoo and
Kekek-ooarsis, and informed us that provisions were
exhausted. The meat they had carried away with
them three days before appeared to us to be enough
for a fortnight, but they assured us it was aU eaten,
that the ice had become so thick that it was impos
sible to catch any more fish, and that the only thing
to be done was to be off to the plains again imme
diately. We were quite taken aback and disap
pointed, for we had counted on a large quantity of
fish, with which old Kekek-ooarsis had promised to
supply us from his fishery at White Fish Lake.
Our whole store consisted of a few pounds of
meat, and a handful of flour. The Indians brought
twenty-two fish, and had left thirteen with their

RES ANGUSTA D0MI. 129
families. This was, of course, absurdly insufficient
for a five days' journey to the plains, and then have
the risk of not finding buffalo after aU. We resolved
upon a surer means of avoiding starvation, by going
over to the Fort for pemmican.
Milton was still quite unfit to travel, and he was
therefore obliged to remain behind, while Cheadle
went to Carlton. We divided the food equally
between us, and the latter set off with the Indians
at once. They journeyed rapidly on for the first day, and
Cheadle confidently expected to reach Carlton on the
evening of the second. The cold, however, was so
severe, that the Indians refused to stir in spite of
aU his entreaties, and sat cooking and eating the
few fish there were until afternoon, replying to aU
his expostulations and suggestions that it would be
better to leave some food for the morrow, with the
eternal "Keyarm" (It's aH the same).
After they had consumed aU but two, he pre
vailed upon them to start, but after a few miles,
they declared it was " osharm aimun " (too hard),
aHuding to the bitter cold, and camped again for the
night. They had not yet got half way. Now the
provisions were quite finished, and seeing the " Okey
Mow" was reaUy angry, they rose before daylight,
not a whit uncomfortable or discontented with the
knowledge that they had forty miles to march with
empty stomachs, or pity for the unfortunate dogs
who had now not tasted a morsel of food for two
days. It was otherwise, however, with Cheadle. j

130 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Toiling away on snow-shoes until noon, he ex
perienced a wonderfully disagreeable sensation of
emptiness, and a tendency to bend double ; and his
walking in this stooping attitude eHcited frequent
ridicule from the boy, who was vastly deHghted, and
kept crying, "Keeipah, keeipah" (Quickly, quickly).
There was no help for it but to keep "pegging
away," and at dusk they gained the weU-beaten
trail about five miles from the Fort. Snow-shoes
were doffed and tied on the sleighs ; the dogs,
knowing the end of the journey was near, set off at
a gaUop ; and the "Muskeeky Okey Mow," now quite
recovered, astonished his companions by running
ahead, and arriving first at the Fort.
The next day, when the provisions were ready
for the Indians to set out with at once to the reHef
of Milton, Keenamontiayoo was discovered to be in
a state of intoxication. By noon he was sufficiently
sobered to start on the journey, and promised to
make aU possible haste. He was very much
ashamed of himself, and penitent withal, more par
ticularly because he had parted with a valuable
hunting-knife, which he prized very highly, for a
teacupful of rum. It was one which the " Soniow
Okey Mow " had given him on our return from the
plains, as a reward for his good behaviour to us,
and he had vowed never to part with it. A Httle rum
offered to him by one of the half-breeds, who
coveted the knife, overcame his resolution at once.
The temptation is irresistible to an Indian.
After the departure of the party for the Fort,

" DOING MEDICINE." 131
Milton spent a few days in monotonous solitude,
eking out a scanty subsistence by the help of his
gun. Concluding, however, that the society of
Kekek-ooarsis even would be better than none, he
put on his snow-shoes and marched over to White
Fish Lake. But there food was even scarcer than
at home. The fish were soon eaten, and the only
supply then was an occasional marten, mink, or
otter, trapped by Kekek-ooarsis, and a few partridges
and rabbits, which Milton provided. But game
was beginning to be scarce in the immediate neigh
bourhood, and the strait had become more than
unpleasant when the Hunter and his son returned
with the pemmican sent off by Cheadle.
After his return, Keenamontiayoo went out into
the woods to hunt moose. For several days he
had no success, and came back to perform a solemn
invocation to the " Manitou " (a) to bless his next
attempt. Drums were brought out, and rattles
made of bladders with pebbles in them, " medicine "
belts of wolf skin donned, and other "medicine,"
or magic articles, such as ermine skins, and musk-
rat skins covered with beads. The Hunter and his
father-in-law drummed and rattled, and sang songs,
finishing, after some hours, by a long speech which
they repeated together, in which they promised to
give some of the best meat to the Manitou if he

(') These Indians believe in one " Great Spirit," or more literally
" Perfect Spirit," the Manitou proper, and a great number of inferior
spirits, or lesser Manitous. They appear to address their invocations
principally to the latter. T 0,

132 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
granted success, and to compose a new song in his
praise. Before daylight, Keenamontiayoo started, and at
night returned in high glee, for his prayer had
proved very efficacious, and he had killed two moose.
The moose is a sacred animal, and certain portions
of the meat — such as the breast, liver, kidneys, and
tongue — must be eaten at once, and the whole con
sumed at a single meal. Women are not aHowed to
taste the tongue, and aU scraps are burnt, never
given to the dogs. The Hunter had brought the
best part home with him, and Milton had the
pleasure of joining in a great feast. Tit-bits were
cut off and cast into the fire, as the promised offer
ing to the Manitou, the men chanting and beating
drums and rattles the while. Then aH feasted to
repletion, and Milton was kept from sleep by the
persistency with which Keenamontiayoo sang the
new song he pretended to have composed for the
occasion, which he continued to sing over and over
again without cessation tiH nearly daylight. As he
had been out hunting aU day, and busUy engaged
ever since his return, it is shrewdly suspected he
attempted to impose upon his Manitou, by making
shift with an old hymn, for he certainly could not
have had much opportunity for composing the new
one he had promised.
Cheadle had remained at the Fort to await the
arrival of the winter express from Fort Garry,
which comes once a year, bringing letters for
Carlton, and the more distant forts. Dog-sleighs

CHEADLE'S RETURN FROM CARLTON. 133
arrived from all quarters — Edmonton, La Crosse,
Norway House, &c. — bringing letters for England, in
return for those brought for them by the Red
River train. It was a time of great excitement at
the Fort, and when the tinkling of sleigh beUs gave
warning of an arrival, all rushed out to greet the
new-comers and hear the latest news. We naturaUy
expected a large batch of letters, the anears of aU
sent from home since we left, for we had as yet
received none. Dreadful was the disappointment,
therefore, when the Fort Garry express came in,
and the box of letters was seized and ransacked,
to find not one for any of us. The only hope left was
that La Ronde might bring some when he returned.
Cheadle was now anxious to return as soon
as possible, although without the pleasant intelli
gence he had expected to carry with him. But
there was some difficulty in finding the means of
transport, and the cold was now so great that it
would have been dangerous to cross open country
without a sleigh on which to carry an ample supply
of robes and blankets. At last an EngHsh half-
breed, named Isbister, volunteered to accompany
him with his train of dogs, if he could travel rapidly,
so as to aUow him to return to the Fort within
three days, in order to join a party of hunters going
to the plains.
The offer was gladly accepted, and at noon the
two set out. The north wind blew very bitterly, the
thermometer being down to thirty degrees below
zero. The track, was tolerably good, although not

134 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
firm enough to aUow snow-shoes to be dispensed
with, and now rapidly drifting up. Away went the
dogs with the Hghtly-laden sleigh, and Isbister and
Cheadle strained their utmost to keep up, tearing
along on their snow-shoes, with a motion and swinging
of arms from side to side, like fen-skaters.
In spite of all this exertion, a very great many
flannel shirts, a leathern shirt, duffel shirt, and thick
Inverness cape over aU, Cheadle was frost-bitten
in many places — arms, legs, and face ; and when
they pulled up to camp for the night in a clump
of pines, he was quite unable to strike a Hght,
and even Isbister with difficulty accomplished it.
With a roaring fire, sleeping fully clothed, with the
addition of two buffalo robes and two blankets, it
was impossible to keep warm, or rest long without
being admonished, by half-frozen toes, to rise and
replenish the fire. The dogs crept shivering up and
on to the bed, passing, like their masters, a restless
night. The thermometer on this night went down
to thirty-eight degrees below zero, the greatest cold
which was experienced during this winter — the
lowest ever registered being forty-five degrees below
zero. The foUowing morning they set forward again
at a racing pace, and reached the hut before dark —
very fast traveUing indeed on snow-shoes, on a trail
that was not in first-rate order. A man can,
indeed, walk much faster on snow-shoes, with a fair
track, than on the best road without them; but
when the trail is frozen perfectly hard, the voyageur

TRAVELLING WITH DOG-SLEIGHS. 135
casts them off, and runs behind the dogs, who are
able to gaUop at great speed along the slippery path ;
and in this manner the most extraordinary journeys
have been made.
On entering the hut it proved to be empty,
Milton being still at White Fish Lake. They had
observed strange footmarks leading to the hut as
they crossed the lake, and were puzzled whose they
could be. Some one had evidently visited the house
that day, for the chimney was not yet cold, nor
the water in the kettle frozen.
After feeding the dogs, and making a hasty
supper on raw pemmican and tea, Isbister set to
work to convert the sleigh into a rude cariole, or
passenger sleigh. Then wrapping himself in robe
and blanket, he seated himself therein, and in two
hours after his arrival was on his way back again
to Carlton. The dogs ran in with him by eleven
o'clock on the foUowing morning, having accompHshed
upwards of 140 miles in less than forty-eight hours,
and the last seventy without stopping for rest or
food. Cheadle meanwhile remained a prisoner at Fort
Milton, being so stiff and sore from his unusual
kind of exercise, and so lame from using snow-shoes,
that he crept about slowly and painfully, to perform
the necessary duties of cutting wood and cooking.
As he sat over the fire in the evening alone, in
somewhat dismal mood, the door opened, and in
walked a French, half-breed, of very Indian appear
ance. He sat down and smoked, and talked for an

136 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
hour or two, stating that he was out trapping, and
his lodge and family were about five miles distant.
In due time Cheadle produced some pemmican
for supper, when the visitor fully justified the
sobriquet which he bore of Mahaygun, or "The
Wolf," by eating most voraciously. He then men
tioned that he had not tasted food for two days.
He had visited our hut the day before, Ht a fire,
melted some snow in the kettle, and waited for a
long time, in the hope that some one might come
in. At last he went away, without touching
the pemmican which lay upon the table ready to
bis hand. The story was, doubtless, perfectly true,
agreeing with all the signs previously observed, and
the fact that the pemmican was uncut.
With the pangs of hunger gnawing at his stomach,
and viewing, no doubt, with longing eyes the food
around, he had yet, according to Indian etiquette,
refrained from clamouring at once for food, but sat
and smoked for a long time, without making the
sHghtest allusion to his starving condition. When,
in due course, his host offered him something to eat,
he mentioned the wants of himself and famdy. The
next day he left, canying with him suppHes for his
squaw. He was exceedingly grateful for the assist
ance, and promised to return in a day with his
wife, who should wash and mend aU our clothes,
as some acknowledgment of the kindness.
Cheadle, being now somewhat recovered from
his late severe journey, strapped on his snow-shoes,
and set out to seek Milton amongst the Indians at

OUR MEETING AT WHITE FISH LAKE. 137
White Fish Lake. He suffered so severely from
snow-shoe lameness, however, that he with difficulty
accomphshed the nine or ten miles' journey by night-
faH. Opening the door of the hut, he discovered the
old squaw — frying-pan in hand — engaged in cooking
the evening pemmican, and was warmly received by
aU, Milton being quite tired of Hving entirely amongst
savage society, and the Indians always ready to wel
come the white man hospitably. The Hunter and
Misquapamayoo were absent, having gone to bring in
the meat of a moose, which the former had killed. *
We returned home on the foUowing day, leaving
word for the two Indians to join us as soon as pos
sible.

CHAPTER IX.
Our New Acquaintances — Taking it Quietly — Mahaygun Fraternises
with Keenamontiayoo — The Carouse — Importunities for Rum —
The Hunter asks for more — A Tiresome Evening — Keenamon
tiayoo Renounces us — His Night Adventure — Misquapamayoo's
Devotion — The Hunter returns Penitent — The Plains again — The
Wolverine on our Track — The Last Band of Buffalo — Gaytchi
Mohkamarn, "The Big Knife" — The Cache Intact — Starving
Indians — Story of Keenamontiayoo — Indian Gambling — The
Hideous Philosopher — Dog Driving — Shushu's Wonderful Saga
city — A Long March — Return to La Belle Prairie — Household
Cares — Our Untidy Dwelling — Our Spring Cleaning — The Great
Plum Pudding — Unprofitable Visitors — Rover's Accomplishments
Astonish the Indians — Famine Everywhere.
When we reached the hut, we found "The Wolf " and
his wife afready established there. The latter was a
pleasant, clean-looking woman, and she set to work
diligently to wash and mend our clothes, while we
lords of the creation, including her husband, looked
on, smoking and discussing the news brought from
the Fort, speculating on the cause of our not re
ceiving letters, and fixing our plans for the future.
The luxury of a day's complete idleness after severe
exertion is immense, and we now fuHy appreciated it.
In the course of two days, Keenamontiayoo and
Misquapamayoo made their appearance with a sleigh-
load of moose meat, which we found very delicious,
especially after being so long restricted to pemmican,

MAHAYGUN FRATERNISES WITH THE HUNTER. 139
and having no flour, and, greatest hardship of aH, a
very small allowance of tea.
The Hunter and "The Wolf" recognised each
other as old friends who had not met for many years,
and they immediately fraternised tremendously. The
former at once put in his claim for half a pint of rum
which Cheadle had promised him as a reward if he
made the rapid journey when carrying back the provi
sions for Milton at the time of emergency. This was
duly aHowed, and the two friends proceeded to make
very merry indeed, breaking forth into singing ; and
every now and then coming round to shake hands
with us, and proclaim what first-rate " Okey Mows "
we were. Keenamontiayoo shared his Hquor fairly
with his comrade, and when this was finished, Mahay
gun got up and made a speech to us, setting forth,
in the most flattering terms, the great obligations
under which he felt towards us for the hospitable
manner in which we had treated him, and stating
that he reaUy felt ashamed to ask any further
favour. Still, on the other hand, here was his dear
friend Keenamontiayoo — his bosom friend and sworn
comrade — whom he had not met for so many years.
He had with great generosity treated him to rum,
and how could the kindness be properly acknow
ledged ? There was but one way — by treating him
to rum in return, and to do that he must beg some
from us. He felt sure we should excuse him, and
comply with his request, seeing there was no other
solution to the difficulty in which he felt himself to
be placed.

140 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
FeeHng much pleased with the man for his won
derful honesty in not touching our provisions when
he visited our hut during our absence, we consented
to present him with the same quantity we had given
to the Hunter, extracting a solemn promise from
both that they would not ask us for more. And
now the revelry waxed furious. They sang and
talked, shook hands aU round, and lauded us to the
skies. And when the pot was drained, they impor
tuned us for more. We reminded them of the solemn
promise they had given to rest content with what
they had already received, and "The Wolf" acknow
ledged the justice of our remonstrances. Keena
montiayoo, however, was by this time beyond the
reach of argument or reason. He did not seem to
understand, indeed, that he had made any such en
gagement, and, tin cup in hand, went from one to
the other, marking with his finger on the mug the
quantity with which he would be content. We
firmly refused to give a drop, and as he found we
were obstinate, and perceived his chance of succeed
ing become less and less, his finger descended until
at last he vowed that he would be satisfied with the
veriest film of Hquor which would cover the bottom
of the cup. Hours passed by, and he stiH impor
tuned us unwearyingly, and we as steadily denied
him. Cheadle at last rather warmly upbraided him
with his want of rectitude, when in a moment he
drew his knife from his belt, and seizing Cheadle
by the coUar, pressed the point of the knife against
his breast, exclaiming, " Ah ! if I were an Indian of

misquapamayoo's devotion. 141
the Plains now, I should stab you to the heart if you
dared to say no." " Yes," said Cheadle, quietly,
and without moving, " that's just the point of it ;
you are not a Plain Indian, and therefore won't do
anything of the kind. The Indians of the Woods
know better." This touched the right string, and
he removed his hands immediately, saying, however,
that he was so much disappointed with us, of whom
he had previously formed so high an opinion, and so
disgusted with our meanness, that he would have no
more to do with us, and should return home forth
with. And accordingly, in spite of the urgent
entreaties of Misquapamayoo, he staggered out of
the hut, and commenced harnessing the dogs to the
sleigh. It was by this time about midnight, the snow
was falling heavily, and the cold intensely bitter.
Although the Hunter's speech was tolerably articu
late, he walked with difficulty, and it was only by
the reluctant assistance of his son that he was able
to get the sleigh ready. He then sullenly took his
departure, accompanied by Misquapamayoo, who
was in the greatest distress at his father's mis
behaviour. Their road lay across an arm of the lake,
and ere long Keenamontiayoo, overcome by the Hquor
he had drunk, and benumbed by the intense cold,
became incapable of walking, and crawled along on
hands and knees. Before the lake was crossed he
completely coUapsed, lay down in the snow, and feU
heavily asleep. Misquapamayoo, in utter terror and
dismay, yet with unfailing readiness of resource,

142 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
roused him violently, and half dragged, half led him
into a clump of trees at the side of the lake. Here
he immediately relapsed into a deep sleep, whilst his
son quickly coUected wood and made a fire. Then,
wrapping his father in the blankets carried on the
sleigh, he laid him alongside the fire, and with
affectionate care sat out the wearisome hours of
night, sedulously feeding the kindly flame, and
though shivering and half frozen himself, disdaining
to deprive his helpless parent of a blanket. Duti
fully the boy watched whilst his father slept hour
after hour, until the sun was high in the heavens,
when the man at last awoke, sober and unharmed,
and the homeward journey was renewed.
After the departure of the Hunter and his boy,
we quietly retired to rest without further disturb
ance. In the morning we dispatched " The Wolf"
to White Fish Lake, with a message for the erring
Keenamontiayoo, urging him to return to his duty.
The day passed without either of them making their
appearance, and at night we held council together as
to what course we should pursue if we were left
entirely to our own resources. The man had carried
back with him aU the meat he had brought for us,
and our stock of pemmican was getting low. On
the foUowing morning, however, we were much
relieved by the arrival of the deHnquent Hunter, ac
companied by his son and " The Wolf," and bringing
a sleigh-load of moose meat as before. It appeared
that the two had not reached home until long after
" The Wolf's" arrival at the hut the day before — until

TO THE PLAINS AGAIN. 143
dark indeed — and were too exhausted to return at
once. Keenamontiayoo was exceedingly penitent,
shook hands with us fervently, exclaiming that he
had been "namooya quiusk, namooya quiusk" (not
straight, not straight) ; i.e., had not acted rightly,
but assured us that it was the only time he had ever
done so in aU his Hfe, and he would never do the like
again. We readily made peace, and aU was serene
once more.
It was now the beginning of February, and we
might look for the return of La Ronde and
Bruneau in the course of another month. Our
scanty stock of provisions, however, necessitated
another excursion to the plains in search of buffalo,
and we accordingly ananged to set out in a day's
time to fetch the meat we had been obliged to leave
behind in cache. Cheadle positively refused to
agree to Milton's again facing the exposure and
hardship which had so severely affected him before,
and he was reluctantly persuaded to remain at home,
or rather take up his quarters for the time with our
Indian neighbours.
On the 10th of February Cheadle started with
the Indian and his boy, taking with them two
dog-sleighs. The old path had drifted up, and was
undistinguishable in the open, so that the road again
required to be trodden out with snow-shoes; and
the snow was now so deep — nearly three feet —
that it was necessary for both men to walk in ad
vance before the track was beaten firm enough to
bear the weight of the dogs. In spite of this

144 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
heavy work, the party traveUed so industriously,
that on the morning of the fourth day they
reached the old camp by the lake, where we
had spent such an anxious time waiting for Keena-
. montiayoo. On the present occasion also, as it happened, aH
were frost-bitten in the face, though not very exten
sively, and again were reduced to one day's pro
visions. At every part of the road where the old
track was visible, there were the footmarks of the
wolverine following it towards the plains. They
trembled for the cache, and as they found, day after
day, the wolverine had still foUowed the track, the
Hunter, pointing to the footprints, would exclaim,
" Kekwaharkess maryartis ! namatagun weeash"
(That cursed wolverine again ! we shaH not find a
bit of meat).
They quite expected, therefore, to have a hard
time of it, for there was but a poor prospect of
finding many buffalo, and the only chance would
be to make a run for the Fort, which they might
reach in three days. However, as the Hunter
entered the little wood by the lake, his eyes were
rejoiced by the sight of the track of a buffalo. The
animal had been going at speed, probably pursued by
some hunter, and had passed the day before. The
party immediately halted by Keenamontiayoo's order,
whilst he went forward to reconnoitre the open prairie.
He soon came back with the good news that there
were five bulls feeding close by.
As they were in an open place, difficult of

GAYTCHI MOHKAMARN. 145
approach, and it was so very important to kill one,
it was decided that the Hunter should go after them
alone, whilst Cheadle and Misquapamayoo lay con
cealed in the wood. They crawled to the edge of
the cover, and watched anxiously the movements of
the Hunter and the buffalo. The latter continued
to graze undisturbed, and presently a puff of smoke,
and the crack of the Indian's gun, announced the
death of one, for but four went away.
As these gaHoped off, the spectators were asto
nished to see another puff of smoke, and hear the
sound of a shot, evidently fired by some one lying
in wait as they passed, and presently a figure ap
peared in fuH pursuit. Cheadle and the boy now
came out of their hiding-place, and drove the sleighs
to another copse near to the carcass, where a camp
was quickly made.
By dark the meat was all secured, and shortly
after our party was increased by the arrival of a
very wild-looking Indian clad in skins, and wearing
an enormous pair of snow-shoes. He proved to be
a Sauteur, by name Gaytchi Mohkamarn, or " The
Big Knife," and informed us that he Hkewise had
only reached the plains that day from the Montagne
du Bois, and was stalking up to the five buffalo, the
only ones to be seen, when, before he could get
within shot, he observed Keenamontiayoo creeping
close to them. He had wounded two as they passed
him, but darkness came on before he could come up
with them, and he returned.
He had tasted no food for two days, and had left
K

146 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
his squaw and children a few miles off in a similar
condition. He feasted largely on our fresh meat,
and took his ease, without attempting to carry any
thing back to his suffering family. He stated that
he had left the people at the Montagne du Bois in
distress for want of food. Atahk-akoohp had gone
out to the plains for meat a month before, and had
not since been heard of. He told us that Treemiss
had also suffered considerably, and could obtain
no provisions at the Fort, where he had now gone
in person; and he gave but small hope of finding
more buffalo, for reports from all quarters an
nounced their disappearance.
Next morning Gaytchi Mohkamarn went in pur
suit of the wounded buUs ; Keenamontiayoo to look
at our old cache, and search for more game ; whilst
the other two remained in camp, preparing meat
and cutting wood.
At night the Hunter returned, reporting that, to
his surprise, he had found the cache intact, the
wolverine having followed the track within half a mile
of the place, and then turned back, afraid to venture
into the open country ; for these animals never stray
any great distance away from cover. The wolves had
attacked our storehouse with vigour, but although
they had gnawed the logs almost through in many
places, had not been able to effect an entrance.
Later on, Gaytchi Mohkamarn appeared, carrying a
tongue and covered with blood. He had killed aU
the four buffalo, and did not believe there was
another within a hundred miles ! Cheadle, with

STARVING INDIANS. 147
commendable prudence, immediately bought two
animals, for which he paid a few pounds of ammu
nition and some tobacco.
On the morrow Gaytchi Mohkamarn concluded
it was time to look after his wife, who had now
starved for nearly four days, and after breakfast
went off with some meat for her ; the rest spent the
day in cutting up the animals bought the day before.
Next morning Gaytchi Mohkamarn turned up again,
with wife and dog-sleigh, with effects, moving to
camp by the animals he had killed, and reported that
a good many Indians would shortly arrive on their
way to join him. All were in a starving condition,
not having tasted food for several days, and their
prospects for the remainder of the winter were very
unpromising, for no buffalo could be found. It
seemed that our party, by the greatest good luck in
the world, struck exactly the place where the only
buffalo left in the district were at the time.
During the day family after family came in —
a spectral cavalcade : the men, gaunt and wan,
marching before skeleton dogs, almost Hterally skin
and bone, with hide drawn tightly and unpadded
over " crate and basket, ribs and spine ;" dragging
painfully along sleighs as attenuated and empty of
provisions as themselves. The women and children
brought up the rear, who, to the credit of the men,
be it recorded, were in far better case, indeed
tolerably plump, and contrasting strangely with the
fleshless forms of the other sex. Although the
Indian squaws and children are kept in subjection,

148 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and the work falls principally upon them, it is
erroneous to suppose that they are ill-treated, or
that the women labour harder or endure greater
hardships than the men.
The Indian is constantly engaged in hunting, to
supply his family with food ; and when that is scarce,
he will set out without any provision himself, and
often travel from morning to night for days before
he finds the game he seeks ; then, loaded with meat,
he toils home again, and whilst the plenty lasts, con
siders himself entitled to complete rest after his
exertions. This self-denial of the men, and their
wonderful endurance of hunger, was illustrated by
the case of our Hunter, Keenamontiayoo, who, several
years ago, nanowly escaped death by starvation.
That winter buffalo did not come up to the woods,
and moose and fish were very scarce. After killing
his horses one after another when driven to the last
extremity, the family found themselves at last with
out resource. The Hunter, leaving with his wife and
Misquapamayoo a scanty remnant of dried horse
flesh, hunted for two days without success, and at
last, faint and stdl fasting, with difficulty dragged
himself home. AU now made up their minds to
die, for the Hunter became unable to move, and his
wife and boy too helpless to procure food. After
being eight days longer without tasting food, and
exposed to the fierce cold of winter, they were fortu
nately discovered by some of the Company's voyageurs,
and the man tied on a sleigh and carried to Carlton.
The woman and boy had not starved completely

THE HUNTER GAMBLES. 149
quite so long, nor gone through so much fatigue.
They were not, therefore, in quite such a desperate
case, and were left behind with a supply of food, and
in two or three days they were strong enough to
travel on foot to the Fort. Keenamontiayoo, how
ever, was with difficulty brought round. He refused
both food and drink, having lost the desire for it,
and his weakened stomach rejected aU but the most
simple nourishment in minute quantity. His hair
feU off, and for weeks he lay helpless. He eventuaUy
recovered, owing to the careful attention of Mr.
Pruden, who was in charge of Carlton at the time,
and who endeared himseK to aU the Indians by his
kindness and humanity.
As this miserable company came, they were in
vited to sit down by the fire. Their cheerfulness
beHed their looks, and they smoked and chatted
gady, without appearing to covet the meat which lay
around, or making any request for food at once. No
time was lost in cooking some meat, and offering a
good meal to aU, which they ate with quietness and
dignity ; too weU-bred to show any signs of greedi
ness, although they proved equal to the consumption
of any quantity that was put before them.
The Hunter was in his glory talking to his
guests, most of them old acquaintances, and after
giving them food he induced three young feUows, the
dandies of the company, highly painted, gay with
scarlet leggings and sash, embroidered pouch-straps,
and other Indian finery, to commence gambHng with
him. This is conducted in very simple fashion.

150 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Everything that each player intends to stake is
coUected. The relative values are agreed on, and
compared and divided into so many stakes. An
Indian wiU often risk knife, gun, ammunition, and
indeed everything he possesses, except the clothes
he stands in. The lookers-on assist at the perform
ance by beating frying-pans and tin kettles, and
singing the eternal " He he, hi hi, hay hay," the
ordinary Indian song.
The players squatted opposite each other, with
legs crossed, and capote or blanket spread over their
knees. The game consisted in one of the players
hiding in his hands two smaU articles, as a ramrod
screw, or brass hair-wire, whUst the others endea
voured to guess what, was contained in either hand.
The holder did his best to deceive the others, by
continually keeping his hands in motion, now under
the blanket on his lap, now behind his back, or
clasped together. Between each change the hands
were held out for the choice of his opponent, who
watched eagerly, in great excitement, and generaUy
took a long time to make his guess.
AU this time the drumming and singing never
ceased, and in time with it the players swayed their
bodies, and moved up and down in their seats. As
each gained or lost, the result was notched on a
stick, each notch representing a stake.
This went on for half the day, with unceasing
energy and unfading interest to the players and
spectators, except Cheadle, who was weary of the
din and monotony of the amusement. At last the

THE HIDEOUS PHILOSOPHER. 151
Hunter cleaned out all the rest of everything but
guns and knives, and the visitors departed, not in
the least depressed by their bad fortune.
One Indian and his squaw still remained. He was
a gigantic feUow, of more than six feet high, and the
bones of his huge frame stood out conspicuous at
the joints and angles, and the muscles showed dis
tinct in his gaunt meagreness. His aspect was
positively hideous. His large nose had been driven
perfectly flat upon his face, over one eyeless orbit was
a black greasy patch, whUe in his gums two long
canine teeth alone remained. He had suffered this
in a fight with a grisly bear, a stroke of whose paw
had torn out one eye, smashed in his nose, and
knocked out his teeth. The man was in what
seemed a hopeless state of destitution. He had
gambled away HteraUy every single thing he pos
sessed, with the exception of his wife, child, and a
miserable dog. A few ragged pieces of blanket were
aU the protection they had from the cold, when the
thermometer stood at 25° below zero, and the north
wind blew fiercely. They possessed not a mouthful of
food, nor had the man any gun, ammunition, knife,
snow-shoes, or other appliance required by a hunter
For two days this feUow remained in Cheadle's
camp, eating from morning tiU night. His toothless
gums were never at rest. He consumed not only
aU they gave him, but quietly " annexed " aU the
offal which was thawing at the fire for the dogs.
When the party started homewards two days
afterwards, they left him seated by the fire with his

152 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
squaw, perfectly contented, engaged in cooking the
buffalo's head, his only provision. There seemed
every probabUity that he would be starved to death,
either by cold or hunger; but, to our surprise, he
made his appearance at our hut at the end of the
winter, hideous and gaunt as ever, but apparently
in his usual health and spirits.
There was now more meat than we required at
present, and the cache was therefore left undisturbed,
some given in charge of Gaytchi Mohkamarn, and a
small sleigh and two dogs hired in addition to the two
brought to carry the rest. These were loaded with
aU they could carry, and the homeward journey com
menced. The track was tolerably good, but the tra-
veUing very tedious, on account of the heavy loads.
One of the dogs in the borrowed sleigh was the skele
ton belonging to the hideous Indian ; but it soon ap
peared he was too weak to carry even himself with
ease, and was therefore dismissed by the Hunter, and
a puppy harnessed in his place, who puUed weU, but
ceased not to howl until released from his bonds at
the end of the day. The work was hard for aU,
each having a sleigh to look after, and the upsets
being more frequent than ever. The firm path
formed by the beating down of the snow was now a
considerable height above the ground, Hke a rail the
width of a sleigh, running along in the soft, floury
powder at the sides. At the turns, or on hiU-sides,
the sleighs were apt to slip off and upset, and re
quired great strength and greater patience to replace
them on the " line."

TRIALS OF DOG-DRIVING. 153
In going down hiUs it was necessary for the
driver to He face downwards on the sleigh, with legs
projecting behind, and act as a drag by digging his
toes into the snow as hard as he could, thus also
guiding it in the descent. At one very steep place,
a descent of several hundred yards into a lake below,
Cheadle's train got over the brow before he could
get up to act as drag. Away went the sleigh, over
riding the dogs, the whole roUing over and over in a
long succession of somersaults, until they reached
the bottom, where the dogs lay helpless, entangled in
the harness and held down by the heavy sleigh,
which seemed as if it must have broken every bone
in their bodies, as it thumped upon them in their
headlong faU. They were none the worse, however,
although it took a very long time to disentangle them,
and put them aU right on the track again. The
day's journey was attended by a constant succession
of difficulties and disasters ; the snow was deep, the
loads heavy, the dogs weak and obstinate, cunningly
taking advantage of every opportunity to shirk,
refusing to puU when it was most required, and
showing wonderful speed and alacrity, rushing off
with the heavy sleigh when the distracted driver
came near to punish. Of aU things in the world
calculated to ruffle the most even temper, driving a
worthless train of Indian dogs stands unequalled.
It may be doubted whether the most rigidly pious
evangeHcal would be able to preserve his equanimity,
or keep his Hps free from language unbecoming his
profession, under circumstances trying almost beyond

154 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
human endurance ; and indeed it is said that one of
the missionaries on the Saskatchewan, a most worthy
and pious man, when traveUing with some of his
flock in the winter, astonished and horrified his com
panions by suddenly giving vent, in his distraction,
to most dreadful anathemas against his dogs. They
were lying cooUy down in the most aggravating
manner, with their heads turned round narrowly
watching him, but without making the smaUest
effort to help themselves and him out of the difficulty
into which they had faUen.
After three days of this more than usually
harassing work, the party found themselves at dusk
about fifteen miles from La Belle Prairie. Finding
no suitable camping ground at the moment, they
went forward until night had quite closed in. A
young moon, already nearly down, Hghted the
travellers for a time. Cheadle's sleigh led the way,
and he continued on until the moon disappeared and
it became very dark. Yet still Shushu, the leading
dog, showed no hesitation, and kept the track
unerringly, although it was drifted up level and
almost imperceptible to the eye, even in broad day-
Hght. The only means of judging the line of the path
was by the feel of the firm footing beneath the snow-
shoes, contrasted with the Hght, powdery mass on
either side. Cheadle perceiving -the sagacity of the
dog was equal to the occasion, determined to reach
the hut that night, and hour after hour kept
steadily on, foUowed by the two Indians with their
trains, wondering why the " Okey Mow" would not

SHUSHu's SAGACITY. 155
camp. It became at last so dark that the drivers
could not see the dogs before them, but merely
foUowed gHmpses of the retreating sleighs. Shushu,
however, went faster and faster as he neared home,
and made but one mistake, overturning the sleigh
in a deep snow drift on the banks of the river
Crochet, within half a mUe of the hut. But this
delayed them some time, for they had to sound the
snow with poles for the lost line of road, which was
so deeply overlaid with drift snow that it was little
disgrace to Shushu to lose it there. At last the
sleighs were put on the " Hue of raU " again, and in a
few minutes a light streaming from the Httle parch
ment window of Fort Milton greeted the eyes of the
jaded voyageurs. They were received by Milton
with vast deHght, for he had spent the last few days
there alone, waiting anxiously for the return of the
expedition, which had been absent twelve days.
Being now tolerably suppHed with meat,, we both
remained at home, hoping daUy fof the return of our
men from Red River. Two months had elapsed
since their departure, the time they had estimated
would be required for the journey ; but we of course
anticipated that they would somewhat exceed this.
We employed ourselves in shooting and trapping
in the immediate neighbourhood, and were occasionaUy
visited by the Hunter and Misquapamayoo, who
faUed not to bring us a good supply of moose-meat
whenever they were fortunate enough to kiU one.
This was a most delightful reHef to our staple of
tough buffalo bull, and the only food we possessed,

156 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
except some of ChoUet's desiccated vegetables,
brought out only on the great feast days. House
hold cares occupied much of our time. MUton
presided over the cuHnary department, in which he
displayed great skiU and ingenuity, severely taxed
to make a variety of dishes out of such Hmited re
sources, whUe Cheadle was hewer of wood and drawer
of water, or rather melter of snow and ice.
We got on tolerably weU for a length of time ;
but at last our smaU dweUing became so choked up
by the accumulation of chips, wood, and debris of
various kinds, and so disorderly by reason of our
untidy habit of leaving every article where last
used, instead of restoring it to its proper place,
that our domestic duties were seriously impeded.
We resolved to institute a new order of things,
commencing by a regular " spring cleaning" and
tidying. The sweeping out involved a difficulty,
since we had no brush, and the level of the floor
was some two fee*t lower than the ground outside.
However, we improvised besoms of pine boughs,
and for dust-pans used the tin dinner plates. Our
labours were frequently interrupted by fits of laughter
at the ludicrous appearance we presented, down on
our hands and knees, grubbing up the waste and dust
with our primitive contrivances. The result was
most satisfactory, and we viewed with the greatest
complacency the improved condition of our estabhsh-
ment, which now presented a most comfortable and
orderly appearance.
Our triumphs were not confined, however, to

THE GREAT PLUM PUDDING. 157
the housemaid's department. Some months before,
Treemiss had kindly presented us with a few currants
and raisins wherewith to make a Christmas pudding.
From a modest distrust of his own skiU, MUton had
hitherto hesitated to attempt so high a flight; but
encouraged by a series of successes in the savoury
branch of the culinary art, and urged by the eager
soHcitations of Cheadle, he at length consented to
attempt a plum pudding.
Having discovered, some time before, that the
fruit was rapidly diminishing in quantity in an inex
plicable manner, Cheadle had taken the precaution
of securing it, together with a modicum of flour
and sugar, in his strong box. This likewise con
tained stores of powder, shot, caps, tobacco, soap,
and various etceteras. When the materials for the
pudding were sought, it was found that they had
escaped from the paper in which they had been
enclosed, and were scattered about at the bottom
of the box, mixed with loose shot, caps, fragments
of tobacco, and other heterogeneous substances.
After eliminating aU foreign bodies as carefully
as possible, the pudding was duly mixed, tied up in
the cloth after the estabhshed manner, and placed in
the pot. Many a time was it taken out and its state
examined by point of fork before it was at last —
after boiling nearly aU day — pronounced thoroughly
cooked. We had a brace of prairie chickens also,
but aU interest was centred in the pudding. No one
who has not been restricted entirely to one species of
food for a long time can form any idea of the greedy

158 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
eyes with which we viewed that plum pudding. It
proved dehcious beyond aU anticipation, in spite of
certain drawbacks in the shape of caps, buck-shot,
and fragments of tobacco, which we discovered in it.
We had fondly hoped to finish it at a sitting, but it
was a very Brobdingnagian pudding, and we were re
luctantly compeUed to leave a portion unconsumed.
We passed the night somewhat restlessly, partly
caused perhaps by the indigestible character of our
evening meal, but principally from impatience for
the morning to arrive, that we might repeat the
deHghts of the previous evening. When day began
to break, each watched the movements of the other
with anxious distrust, and before it was fairly Hght
both jumped out of bed at the same moment, each
fearful he might lose his share of the dehcious
breakfast. Never did schoolboy view with such
sincere regret the disappearance of his last morsel of
cake, as we did when sighing over the last mouthful
of that unequaUed pudding.
The time wore on monotonously. The beginning
of March had arrived, and stiU La Ronde and
Bruneau had not returned. Our solitude was occa-
sionaUy enlivened by visits of Indians — invariably
starving — who seriously impoverished our scanty
larder. Rover also assisted us to while away some
of the dreary long winter evenings, which we partly
devoted to teaching him various additional accom-
pHshments. His performances were an unfailing
source of wonder and deHght to our Indian visitors,
who never tired of watching him stand on his head,

STARVATION EVERYWHERE. 159
walk about on his hind legs, or sit up in begging
attitude. But one of his feats elicited loud " wah !
wahs !" and " aiwarkakens !" their expressions of as
tonishment. This was watching a piece of meat
placed on the floor, or sitting with it balanced on his
nose. They could not understand how a dog could
be taught to refrain from seizing it at once, instead of
waiting for the word of command. Their own dogs,
being never fed except when at work, are always so
lean and ravenously hungry, that they steal every
thing they can get at. When meat is being cut up,
the squaw keeps a huge stick ready to her hand, with
which she thwacks unmercifully the starving curs,
which seize every opportunity of abstracting a morsel
unperceived. During this period the only civiHsed person who
visited us was Mr. Tait, a half-breed in the Com
pany's service at Carlton, who came over in a dog
cariole, to coUect furs from the Indians in our neigh
bourhood. He brought us a few cakes and potatoes,
luxuries we had not tasted for many weeks. From
him we learnt that almost everywhere there had been
great scarcity of food. At the Fort at Egg Lake the
people had been obHged to boU down buffalo hides
for subsistence. Two men, sent over to the nearest
port, Touchwood Hills, for succour, arrived almost
dead with famine ; but there they found the inmates
at the last extremity, and unable to afford them any
assistance. At Fort La Corne the men had been
half-starved for a long time : and even at Carlton the
hunters were sent out so scantily provided, that

160 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
they were driven to eating their dogs on the way.
We considered ourselves very fortunate in having
escaped so weU from the general dearth.
The buffalo have receded so far from the forts,
and the quantity of white-fish from the lakes, one of
the principal sources of supply, has decreased so
greatly, that now a winter rarely passes without
serious suffering from want of food. This deficiency
has become so urgent, that the Hudson's Bay Com
pany contemplate the immediate establishment of
extensive farms in the Saskatchewan district, which
is so admirably adapted for agricultural and grazing
purposes. The days when it was possible to Hve in plenty
by the gun and net alone, have afready gone by on
the North Saskatchewan.

CHAPTER X.
La Ronde's Return — Letters from Home — A Feast — The Journey to
Red River and back — Hardships — The Frozen Train — Three
Extra Days — The Sioux at Fort Garry — Their Spoils of War —
Late Visitors — Musk-rats and their Houses — Rat-catching — Our
Weather-glass — Moose Hunting in the Spring — Extreme Wariness
of the Moose — His Stratagem to guard against Surprise — March
ing during the Thaw — Prepare to leave Winter Quarters — Search
for the Horses — Their Fine Condition — Nutritious Pasturage —
Leave La Belle Prairie — Carlton again — Good-bye to Treemiss and
La Ronde — Baptiste Supernat — Start for Fort Pitt — Passage of
Wild-fowl — Baptiste's Stories — Crossing Swollen Rivers — Addi
tion to our Party — Shooting for a Living — The Prairie Bird's
Ball- — Fort Pitt — Peace between the Crees and Blackfeet — Cree
Full Dress — The Blackfeet — The Dress of their Women — Indian
Solution of a Difficulty — Rumours of War — Hasty Retreat of the
Blackfeet — Louis Battenotte, " The Assiniboine" — His Seductive
Manners — Departure for Edmonton — A Night Watch — A Fertile
Land — The Works of Beaver — Their Effect on the Country —
Their Decline in Power — How we crossed the Saskatchewan — Up
the Hill — Eggs and Chickens — Arrive at Edmonton.
On the 11th of March, as we were sitting in the hut
talking to two young Indians who had just arrived
from the plains with a message from Gaytchi Moh
kamarn, to the effect that he should be compelled, by
hunger, to eat the meat we had left in cache, if we
did not fetch it immediately, the door, opened, and
in walked La Ronde. He was very emaciated, and
appeared feeble and worn-out. Bruneau arrived

162 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
soon after with a dog-sleigh, on which were a pem
mican, a sack of flour, a smaU chest of tea, and,
above aU, letters from home. How eagerly we seized
them, and how often we read and re-read them need
hardly be told. We made a feast in honour of the
arrival; pancakes were fried in profusion, and
kettleful after kettleful of tea prepared. The latter
we had not tasted for many days, the former not for
weeks. We sat up until long after midnight Hsten-
ing to La Ronde's account of his journey, and the
news from Red River. They had accompHshed the
journey of 600 miles to Fort Garry in twenty-three
days, and, after a week's rest, set out on their return
on the last day of January. This and the 1st of
February were the two days on which Cheadle and
Isbister traveUed from Carlton, the period of greatest
cold, when there was seventy degrees of frost.
The two sleighs were laden with four sacks of
flour, the tea, and pemmican for themselves and the
dogs. The snow was so deep, that they were fre
quently obHged to tread out a track twice over with
snow-shoes, before it was firm enough to bear the
dogs, who were even then only able to drag the heavy
sleighs by the help of the men pushing behind with
poles. They traveUed thus slowly and laboriously
for some 200 mUes, when the pemmican came to an
end, and they were obHged to feed the dogs upon the
precious flour.
When within two days' journey of Fort PeUey,
the dogs were so exhausted, that one of the sleighs
had to be abandoned, and one miserable animal lay

THE SIOUX AT FORT GARRY. 163
down to die by the road-side. Soon afterwards they
passed a sleigh with a team of dogs standing frozen,
stark and stiff in their harness, like the people
suddenly turned to stone in the story of the Arabian
Nights. Some passer-by had found the deserted
sleigh, with its dead team, and placed them upright,
as if still drawing the load. Upon arriving at Fort
PeUeythey found the inhabitants starving, with but
half a bag of pemmican left. Here they left a sack
of flour. After this La Ronde was attacked by
bronchitis, and had great difficulty in finishing the
journey, arriving in the weak and emaciated condi
tion described.
We found, to our surprise, that we had, some
how or other, contrived to manufacture three days
since our last visit to the Fort six weeks before.
By our reckoning we made the day of their return
Saturday, the 14th of March, whereas it proved to be
Wednesday, the 11th.
We now heard the particulars of the Sioux
outbreak, and how the stage to Georgetown had
been attacked by them, the driver and passengers
scalped, and the wagon thrown into Red River.
This occurred only a few days after our journey by
it. Two thousand Sioux had come to Fort Garry for
ammunition, and the greatest terror and excitement
reigned in the settlement.
These Indians were rich in the spoils of war ;
strings of twenty-doUar gold pieces adorned their
necks, and they had bags of coin, officers' epaulettes,
and women's finery, swords, rifles, revolvers, and
l 2

164 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
bowie-knives ; horses, and even buggies were amongst
their trophies.
La Ronde also brought the provoking intelligence
that all the valuable horses we sent back to Fort
Garry, in charge of Voudrie and Zear, had perished
on the road through the carelessness of these worth
less feUows.
Shortly after we were aU comfortably asleep, we
were aroused by the yelping of dogs, and presently
heard some one stealthily entering the hut. It was
pitch dark, and Milton hastily jumped out of bed
and struck a light, which disclosed the Hunter, his
father-in-law, and the whole family. They had heard
of La Ronde's return from the two young Indians
who had visited us that day, and lost no time in
coming to welcome him, and share in the good things
which he had brought. We were very sulky at the
disturbance, and they slunk quietly to sleep on the
floor, dreadfully ashamed of themselves.
La Ronde continued seriously Ul for several days,
but when he became convalescent, we resumed the
trapper's Hfe, varying it at times by spearing musk-
rats, now in fuU season, and although somewhat
strong flavoured, by no means despicable food. These
animals are very numerous on aU the lakes, and their
houses of reeds dot the surface of the ice in winter like
so many haycocks. They build these as soon as the
water is frozen over, lining them with soft moss and
grasses, and storing them with the aquatic plants on
which they feed. A hole through the ice communi
cates with the water beneath, and at various distances

MOOSE HUNTING. 165
breathing holes are kept open, covered with smaUer
mounds of cut reeds, about the size of mole-hiUs.
As long as the frost remains severe the musk-rat's
house is impregnable ; but when the sun shines on it
with greater power, enemies force an entrance
through the softening waUs. The fox, the wolverine,
and the mink prey upon the musk-rats towards the
end of winter ; and the Indian, armed with a long,
slender spear, barbed at the point, approaches
stealthUy the family dweUing, and plunging the
weapon through the middle of it, often impales two
or three at a single thrust.
When the skunk-skin which served us as a
weather-glass informed us through our noses that
the thaw was at hand, (x) we looked eagerly forward
to the prospect of hunting moose. We had found
many tracks within a few mUes of our house, and
expected to have some good sport with the assistance
of Rover. The surface of the snow thawed by the
sun during the day is frozen into a firm crust by the
night frosts of the early spring. This is strong
enough to bear a man on snow-shoes, or a dog of no
great size, but breaks through beneath the smaU feet
and gigantic weight of the moose. When pursued
by a dog, the animal tries to escape ; but sinking
(:) The skin of a skunk, which had been thrown aside near our
hut, gave out no scent when the frost was very severe, but on the
least abatement of the cold, its odour was perceptible. From the
variations in the intensity of the smell, we could judge very closely
of the warmth of the weather. The scent is by no means so dis
agreeable as it is generally repiesented, and only when very powerful
is it at all disgusting. The Indians use the gland which furnishes
the secretion as a cure for headache, and other maladies.

166 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
through up to the hocks at every stride, and
wounded about the legs by the sharp ice, he soon
turns to bay, and is easily shot by the hunter when
he comes up. This is almost the only way, except
by watching their bathing-places in the rivers and
lakes in summer, that this wary animal can be kdled
by any but the most skilful hunters. Few half-breeds,
and not every Indian, is expert enough to track and
kill a moose under ordinary circumstances, and it is
a saying amongst them that a man may foUow
moose aU his Hfe, and never even catch sight of one.
Frequenting the thickest forests, where he can only
be seen when close at hand, his sense of hearing is
so acute that the snapping of the smaUest twig or
the crackling of a dry leaf is sufficient to give him
warning. The advent of a chronic cough has brought
many a noted moose-hunter to the brink of starvation,
and compeUed him to seek some other method of
obtaining subsistence. A windy day offers the best
chance of approaching him, when the noises of the
woods drown the sound of the hunter's stealthy foot
steps. The moose adopts a cunning stratagem to
guard against surprise. When about to rest, he
walks in a circle and Hes down within it, close to the
commencement of the curve. Thus the hunter fol
lowing the track unconsciously passes close beside
him as he Hes concealed, and whUst his pursuer
foUows the trail ahead, he dashes away on one
side unseen. This year, however, on the 30th of
March, the thaw set in suddenly and completely,
so that no firm crust formed on the snow, and

WALKING DURING THE THAW. 167
our anticipations of sport were altogether disap
pointed. Cheadle was at this time far away in the woods
with Bruneau, and immediately started homewards.
They were only able to travel at night, when it was
frosty, for snow-shoes are useless in a thaw. On the
second evening these broke down, from being con
tinually wet, and they were obliged to flounder along
as they could without them. Nothing can be more
fatiguing than walking through deep snow at the
commencement of the thaw. The thin crust on the
surface wiU bear the weight of a man in some places,
and you walk on triumphantly for a few yards, and
then are suddenly shaken to pieces by crashing
through up to your middle. StruggHng on, wading
through the mass until you come to another stronger
portion, you step on to it, and are again let down with
a run. Travelling like this aU night brought them to
the edge of the lake, only two miles from the hut.
But they were too exhausted to proceed further, and
lighting a good fire, lay down and slept for several
hours, after which they were sufficiently restored to
be equal to the walk home across the lake.
We now prepared to leave our winter quarters,
as soon as the snow had disappeared sufficiently to
admit of traveUing with carts. The first thing to do
was to find the horses, which had been turned loose
at the commencement of the winter. We had seen
them or their tracks from time to time, and knew in
what direction they had wandered. La Ronde fol
lowed their trail without difficulty, and discovered

168 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
them about eight or ten mules away. We were very
much astonished at their fine condition when he
drove them back to La Belle Prairie. Although very
thin when the snow began to faU, and two of them
had been used for sleigh work in the early part of
the winter, they were now perfect baUs of fat, and
as wdd and fuH of spirit as if fed on corn — a most
unusual condition for Indian horses. The pasture is
so nutritious that animals fatten rapidly even in
winter — when they have to scratch away the snow to
feed — if they find woods to shelter them from the
piercing winds. No horses are more hardy or en
during than those of this country, yet their only food
is the grass of the prairies and the vetches of the
copses. The mUch cows and draught oxen at Red
River, and in Minnesota, feeding on grass alone,
were generaUy in nearly as fine condition as the
staU-fed cattle of the Baker Street Show.
On the 3rd of April we loaded our carts and
turned our backs on La BeUe Prairie, not without
feeHngs of regret. Our Indian friends were aU away,
and we reluctantly set out without saying good-bye to
either the Hunter or Misquapamayoo. On the 6th of
April we reached the Saskatchewan, which 'we found
still firmly frozen over, and crossed on the ice. At
Carlton we found Treemiss, on his way back to Eng
land, and he started with La Ronde the next day for
Red River. We sent Rover with them, as we were
afraid of losing him after reaching British Columbia —
a mistake we have never ceased to regret. As our
guide forward we engaged Baptiste Supernat, a taU,

baptiste's stories. 169
powerful, French half-breed, who professed to know
the route we intended to foUow as far as T&te
Jaune's Cache, on the western side of the main
ridge of the Rocky Mountains. After resting
three days at the Fort, we re-crossed the river on
the ice, afready beginning to break up, and journeyed
quietly along the northern bank, towards Fort
Pitt. We took two carts and two horses with us,
and as Baptiste was our only attendant, one of us
drove, while the other walked a-head to look for
game. The weather was beautifully bright and fine,
and the snow had almost gone. Flocks of ducks
and geese passed continuaUy, and the whistling
of their wings, as they flew overhead on their way
northwards, went on incessantly aU night, almost
preventing sleep. The country we passed through
was of the usual rich character — mingled woods,
roUing prairies, and lakes and streams — except for
one day's journey, when we crossed a bleak and
barren tract. This was a level plain, backed by an
amphitheatre of bare, rugged hills. But beyond this,
at a place caUed the Source, from a river which
springs out of the ground there, the country resumed
its former character.
Baptiste proved, like aU his race, very talkative,
and told us many curious stories, in the truth of
which, perhaps, not very great faith could be placed.
One of these tales was the following : — Many years
ago, but within the memory of people stiU living, an
Indian found a piece of native iron in the neighbour
hood of Edmonton, which he carried out to the

170 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
plains, and placed on the top of a hiU. Since that
time it had regularly increased in size, and was now
so large that no man could lift it ! The only thing
which makes this tale worth mentioning, is that it
obtains universal credence amongst the half-breeds.
Many of them profess to have seen it, and one man
told us he had visited it twice. On the first
occasion he lifted it with ease ; on the second,
several years afterwards, he was utterly unable to
move it ! The man most solemnly assured us this
was perfectly true.
Baptiste also told us that many years ago a
nugget of gold was brought to Mr. Rowand, of
Edmonton, by an Indian, who stated he had found
it near the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The gold
was forwarded to the Company in England, and the
Indian strictly enjoined to teU no man, lest some
thing evU should happen unto him.
At Jack Fish Lake we met Gaytchi Mohkamarn
and some Wood Crees of our acquaintance. The
former apologised for eating our meat in the winter,
urging the dire necessity which compeUed him.
After accompanying us for a day, they left us,
seeming really sorry that they would see us no more.
The principal difficulty we met with in this part of
our journey was the crossing of rivers, which were
now bank fuU from the melted snows. We generaUy
adopted the plan of making a smaU raft, on which
one of us crossed; then, with a rope from either
bank, we hauled the raft backwards and forwards,
until the baggage was all ferried over. The horses

CROSSING SWOLLEN RIVERS. 171
were made to swim the stream, and the carts
dragged across. This we found rather miserable
work, standing up to our knees in the icy water,
sometimes in the chiUy evening, or the raw cold of
early morning.
One river we crossed on a narrow bridge of ice
which had not yet broken up. A large fissure
extended down the middle, through which we could
see the waters boiling along beneath. Taking the
wheels off one of the carts, we pushed the body
before us on the ice, and placed it as a bridge across
the dangerous portion. As we removed the cart,
when everything had been brought over, the ice
broke up in great masses, which were whirled away
down stream, and in a few minutes the river
was open.
Some days before we reached Fort Pitt, we were
overtaken by a party of the Company's men from
Carlton, who accompanied us for the rest of the
journey. They travelled on foot, and their baggage
was carried on "travaiUes," drawn by dogs. A
" travaiUe" is an Indian contrivance, consisting of
two poles fastened together at an acute angle, with
cross-bars between. The point of the angle rests
upon the back of the dog or horse, the diverging
ends of the poles drag along the ground, and the
baggage is tied on to the cross-bars. The Indians
use these contrivances instead of carts. The new
comers were out of provisions and ammunition, and
depended upon our HberaHty for subsistence. We
had Httle left, and had to work hard to kiU a sufficient

172 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
number of ducks and prairie chickens, for ten hungry
men wiU eat a great many brace of birds.
A peculiarity of the prairie grouse enabled us to
procure a good supply of them. In the spring of the
year these birds assemble together at sunrise and
sunset, in parties of from twenty to thirty, at some
favourite spot, generally a little hiUock, or rising
ground, and dance — yes, dance like mad ! The
prairie grouse is a running bird, and does not ordi
narily progress by hopping ; but on these festive
occasions, they open their wings, put both feet
together, and hop Hke men in sacks, or the birds in
a pantomime, or " The Perfect Cure," up to one
another, waltz round, and " set " to the next ! A
prairie chicken dance is a most ludicrous sight, and
whilst they are engaged in it, they become so
absorbed in the performance that it is easy to
approach them. Their places of rendezvous are
recognisable at once from the state of the ground,
the grass being beaten perfectly flat in a circular
patch, or worn away by the constant beating of feet.
At the present juncture we took advantage of
their weakness for a social hop, and broke up the
baU in a most sanguinary manner, justified, we hope,
by the dire necessity. We never, however, took this
mean advantage of them except when driven by
actual hunger to obtain food in the best manner
we could.
The prairie was at this time very beautiful, being
covered with the large blue flowers of a species of
anemone. The grouse feed greedily upon them

FORT PITT. 173
when in bloom, and we always found their crops
fuU of them.
On the 20th we made a forced march, in order
to get in that night, travelling very fast and hard all
day, and we were very weary before we saw the
welcome stockade, and gained the hospitable quar
ters of Mr. Chantelaine, who reigned at this time at
Fort Pitt.
Fort Pitt stands, Hke Carlton, on the flat below
the high old bank of the river Saskatchewan, and is a
simUar building, but of smaUer size. This establish
ment furnishes the largest quantity of pemmican and
dry meat for the posts more distant from the plains.
The buffalo are seldom far from Fort Pitt, and often
whUst there is famine at Carlton and Edmonton, the
people of the " Little Fort," as it is caUed, are
feasting on fresh meat every day.
The farming, although carried on in somewhat
primitive fashion, is very productive. Potatoes are
abundant, and attain an immense size; carrots and
turnips grow equally well, and wheat would no
doubt flourish as luxuriantly here as at Edmonton,
or Red River, were there sufficient inducement to
sow it.
We stayed several days visiting the Indians who
were encamped around, and trading a few horses
from them. Cheadle was fuUy employed, for the
advent of a white medicine man is so rare an event,
that every one seized the opportunity to employ his
services, or ask his advice; and he was expected
not only to cure present ailments and prophesy

174 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
concerning prospective ones, but also, with retro
spective view, declare what course ought to have
been pursued in various cases long gone by. The
Httle community in and around the hut was in a
state of intense excitement. Peace had just been
concluded between the Crees and the Blackfeet;
large camps of both nations were within a day or
two's journey of the Fort. From these there was a
continual going and coming of visitors, aU anxious
to avaU themselves of the rare occasion of a peace,
generaUy only of very short duration. On these state
visits by the members of one tribe to those of the
other, the men adorned themselves in gaudiest finery
and brightest paint. Scarlet leggings and blankets,
abundance of ribbons in the cap, if any were worn,
or the hair plaited into a long queue behind, and two
shorter ones hanging down on each side the face in
front, each bound round by coils of bright brass
wire ; round the eyes a halo of bright vermiHon, a
streak down the nose, a patch on each cheek, and a
circle round the mouth of the same colour, consti
tuted the most effective toUet of a Cree dandy.
During our stay here a party of Blackfeet ar
rived to trade. They were fine-looking feUows,
generaUy better dressed and cleaner than other
Indians. They appeared of a less stature than the
Crees, but stiU taU and weU made. Their faces were
very intelhgent, their features being strongly marked,
the nose large, weU formed, straight or sHghtly
Roman, the cheek-bones less prominent, and the
Hps thinner than in the Cree. The mouth was large,

CREES AND BLACKFEET. 175
and the teeth beautifully white, as in aU Indians.
The dress of the men differed but Httle from that of
their ancient enemies, the Crees, except being gene
raUy cleaner and in better preservation. The faces
of both men and women were highly painted with
vermiHon. The dress of the latter was very singular
and striking. It consisted of long gowns of buffalo
skin, dressed beautifully soft, and dyed with yeUow
ochre. This was confined at the waist by a broad belt
of the same material, thickly studded over with round
brass plates, the size of a crown piece, brightly
pohshed. These Indians were very dignified in
manner, submitting with great composure to the
gaze of an inquisitive crowd of half-breeds and
Crees, who looked with eager interest at a race
seldom seen by them, except when meeting on the
battle-field. Although peace had been proclaimed, it was not
by any means improbable that some of the young
Cree braves might attempt to steal the Blackfeet
horses. Mr. Chantelaine, therefore, had them secured
for the night together with ours, within the Fort. On
the morrow a Cree came in from the camp on the
plain with the news that hostilities were imminent,
on account of a Cree woman having been killed in
the Blackfoot camp. She had gone there to be
married to a Blackfoot chief, but on her arrival
another took a fancy to her. A quarrel arose, and,
to put an end to the matter, one of them stabbed the
woman to the heart. Mr. Chantelaine immediately
communicated the news to the Blackfoot chief, and

176 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
advised him to be off at once. He agreed to this,
and in a few minutes they crossed the river. As
they landed on the other side, a Blackfoot runner,
stripped to his breech cloth, breathless and excited,
met them, having been sent to warn them of im
pending danger. EventuaUy the alarm turned out
to be a false one, and the peace continued unbroken
for the few weeks we remained on the Saskatchewan.
At Fort Pitt we engaged another man, who, like
Baptiste, expressed his willingness to go with us as
far as we might require. Our new attendant, Louis
Battenotte, more generaUy known by the sobriquet
of " The Assiniboine," from his having been brought
up in efculdhood by that tribe, was a middle-sized
though athletic man, of very Indian appearance.
His hair was long and black, and secured by a fiUet
of silk, his nose prominently aquiline, his mouth
smaU, and with unusuaUy thin and deHcate Hps.
His manner was very mUd and pleasing, and the
effect of this was increased by the singular softness
and melody of his voice.
At the time we were at Fort Pitt, his youngest
chUd feU Ul and died, and he and his wife became so
unhappy and unsettled on account of the loss, that
they became anxious to leave the scene of their
misfortune, and volunteered to accompany us. We
were willing enough, and indeed anxious, to secure
the services of the man, who had the reputation of
being the most accompHshed hunter and voyageur of
the district, but demurred for a long time to his
proposal to take with him his wife and son — the

"the assiniboine." 177
latter a boy of thirteen. We were, however, so
charmed with the feUow, that we at last agreed, not
without many misgivings as to the wisdom of aUow-
ing what we thought would be supernumeraries on
a journey so difficult as ours would be across the
mountains, and through a country where food would
be exceedingly scarce and hard to obtain. But this
arrangement, which appeared of such doubtful wisdom
at the time, eventuaUy proved our salvation.
"The Assiniboine," although he possessed but
one hand — the left one having been shattered by the
bursting of a gun, which left but two fingers — was
as useful and expert as if he were unmaimed. His
gentle and insinuating manners, which had so fasci
nated us, beHed his character, for he was passionate
and violent, and although his countenance beamed
forth benevolent, and he cooed softly as any dove
when at peace, yet, when angry and excited, his
aspect became perfectly fiendish, and his voice
thundered like the roar of a Hon. But he proved a
valuable servant in our many difficulties afterwards,
and we never regretted being misled by his seduc
tive manners. We learnt subsequently that he had
kUled another half-breed in a drunken squabble, and
had been dismissed the Company's service and ex
communicated by the priest in consequence. The
murdered man was, however, a notorious bully, the
dread and terror of all the haH-breeds. Every one
agreed, moreover, that the provocation had been exces
sive, and the deed done in a moment of passion.
We left Fort Pitt on the 28th of April, choosing
M

178 the north-west passage by land.
the road on the north side of the river, as it was
not advisable to encounter the vast numbers of
plain Indians now coUected together on the south.
The first night after our .departure we kept careful
watch over our horses, fearful lest the Indians from
whom we had purchased them might attempt to
steal them back. For it is common enough for them
to repent having parted with their horses, and ease
their minds by again taking possession of their
former property. The night passed quietly, and we
turned in with dayHght for a few hours' rest before
starting again.
We now entered a most glorious country — not
indeed grandly picturesque, but rich and beautiful:
a country of rolling hiUs and fertUe vaUeys, of lakes
and streams, groves of birch and aspen, and minia
ture prairies; a land of a kindly soU, and full of
promise to the settler to come in future years,
when an enlightened poHcy shaU open out the wealth
now uncared-for or unknown.
Our Hve stock was increased before reaching
Edmonton by the birth of a foal, but this did not
delay us in the least.1 The foal was tied on to a
" travaiUe " for the first day, and thus drawn along by
its mother ; and after that marched bravely aU day,
swimming the rivers we had to cross in gaUant style.
On the way we frequently met with marks of the
labours of the beaver in days long gone by, when they
were a numerous and powerful race ; and at one place
we found a long chain of marshes, formed by the
damming up of a stream which had now ceased to

THE BEAVER AND THEIR ANCESlv 179
exist. Their dweUing had been abandoned ages ago,
for the house had become a grassy mound on the dry
land, and the dam in front a green and soHd bank.
On Dog River, a smaU tributary of the Sas
katchewan, a colony of these animals stiU survived.
We found fresh tracks along the bank, and a few
smaU trees cut down ; and following these indica
tions up the stream, we came upon the dam. This
was a weir of trunks and branches, over which the
water poured gently, to resume a more rapid course
below. In the quiet pool above, and close to the
opposite bank, stood the beaver house, a conical
structure of six or seven feet in height, formed ot
polqs and branches plastered over with mud. We
watched long and sUently, hid amongst the bushes
which fringed the stream, hoping for a sight of
some of the tenants, but in vain. This settlement
must have been in existence a very long time, for
we saw stumps of trees which had been cut down
by them, now moss-grown and rotten. Some of
these were of large size, one measuring more than
two feet in diameter. The beaver had faUen off
wofuUy from the glory of their ancestors, not only
in the number and size of the communities, but in
the magnitude of their undertakings.
The trees cut down more lately were all com
paratively small, and it would seem as if a number
of beaver worked at the same tree, and a weak
colony felt unequal to attempt one of the giants
which their forefathers would not have hesitated to
attack. Nor did we ever discover any considerable M 2

180 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
stream dammed up by beaver of this present time — a
work requiring large timber, and numerous work
men; yet we frequently met with the grass-grown
banks described, works of the golden age gone by,
stretched across what had been streams of thirty or
forty yards in width.
At a place caUed Snake Hills, we again struck
the banks of the Saskatchewan ; and as the road on
the north side beyond this point was merely a pack
trail through the woods, we prepared to cross the
river, in order to foUow the regular cart track along
the southern bank. We were at first rather puzzled
how to get over, for the river was deep and wide,
and we were unable to find any timber wherewith to
make a raft. But the ingenuity of " The Assiniboine "
was not long at fault. He buUt a slender framework
of green willows, tied together with strips of hide,
and covered this with a buffalo skin tightly
stretched and weU greased at aU the seams. This
frail canoe was but six feet long, two in breadth,
and about the same in depth. Baptiste acted as
ferryman, and transferred the baggage safely across.
Then came Cheadle's turn, and his thirteen stone,
added to the weight of the ponderous Baptiste,
sunk the Hght craft to the water's edge. A log of
wood was attached on one side to prevent the canoe
from capsizing, and the two pushed off on their
uncertain voyage. The slightest rocking caused
the boat to ship water, which also oozed rapidly
through the pervious skin, and Cheadle viewed
with some anxiety the gradual sinking of one of the

UP THE HILL. 181
most fragile vessels mortal ever embarked in. The
leakage went on rapidly, and the water crept up
outside until it really appeared to overhang the ¦
brim. It was already nearly dark, and the prospect
of immersion appeared so imminent that the passen
ger became seriously uncomfortable. The bank was
reached only just in time, for the water was afready
beginning to trickle over the side.
Milton was next brought over, and the rest
remained behind to superintend the passage of
the horses and carts in the morning. The latter
were brought over in a very easy and simple
manner. Each cart was attached by a rope from
one of the shafts to the tail of a horse, the ani
mals driven into the water, and the carts pushed
after them. Being built entirely of wood, these
floated in their proper position, and the horses
swam across with them without difficulty.
When the carts were again loaded, we found
the banks so steep that the horses were unable to
drag them up the ascent. We possessed no extra
harness by which to attach another horse, but made
shift after the fashion of the country, by a rope
from the shaft to a horse's taU. It was necessary
to start gently, in order not to dislocate the caudal
vertebras, but with Milton and the boy as postilHons
on the leaders, and the rest of the party pushing
behind, we went bravely up the hill.
When we gained the level plain above, dense
clouds of smoke on every hand told that the prairie
was on fire, and we soon reached the blackened

182 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
ground which the fire had passed over. The only
pasture we found for our horses was a large marsh
where we encamped for the night.
Before we reached Edmonton, our stock of pro
visions, as usual, began to fall short; but wild-fowl
were so plentiful, and we coUected their eggs in
such quantity, that we were never short of food.
Baptiste and the Assiniboine family were indifferent
as to the condition of the eggs, or indeed rather pre
ferred those which contained good-sized chickens.
They would hold up the downy dainty by a leg
or wing, and drop it into their mouths, as we
should eat asparagus.
On the 14th of May we came in sight of the
Fort, prettily situated on a high cliff overhanging
the river on the northern side. We were quickly
fetched over in the Company's barge, and took up
our quarters in the building, where we received
every kindness and hospitahty from the chief trader,
Mr. Hardisty.

I. '

I if III'

III L

CHAPTER XI.
Edmonton — Grisly Bears — The Roman Catholic Mission at St.
Alban's — The Priest preaches a Crusade against the Grislies —
Mr. Pembrun's Story — The Gold Seekers — Perry, the Miner —
Mr. Hardisty's Story — The Cree in Training — Running for Life
— Hunt for the Bears — Life at a Hudson's Bay Fort — Indian
Fortitude — Mr. O'B. introduces Himself — His Extensive Acquaint
ance — The Story of his Life — Wishes to Accompany us — His Dread
of Wolves and Bears — He comes into the Doctor's hands — He
congratulates us upon his Accession to our Party — The Hudson's
Bay People attempt to dissuade us from trying the Leather Pass —
Unknown Country on the West of the Mountains — The Emigrants
— The other Passes — Explorations of Mr. Ross and Dr. Hector —
Our Plans — Mr. O'B. objects to " The Assiniboine" — " The Assini
boine" protests against Mr. O'B. — Our Party and Preparations.
The establishment at Edmonton is the most im
portant one in the Saskatchewan district, and is the
residence of a chief factor, who has charge of aU
the minor posts. It boasts of a windmill, a black
smith's forge, and carpenter's shop. The boats
required for the annual voyage to York Factory in
Hudson's Bay are budt and mended here ; carts,
sleighs, and harness made, and aU apphances re
quired for the Company's traffic between the different
posts. Wheat grows luxuriantly, and potatoes and
other roots flourish as wonderftdly here as every
where else on the Saskatchewan. There are about
thirty families living in the, Fort, engaged in the

184 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
service of the Company, and a large body of hunters
are constantly employed in supplying the estabhsh-
ment with meat.
At Lake St. Alban's, about nine mUes north of
the Fort, a colony of freemen — i.e., half-breeds, who
have left the service of the Company — have formed
a smaU settlement, which is presided over by a
Romish priest. Some forty mUes beyond is the more
ancient colony of Lake St. Ann's, of simUar charac
ter, but with more numerous inhabitants.
Soon after our arrival Mr. Hardisty informed us
that five grisly bears had attacked a band of horses
belonging to the priest at St. Alban's, and after
wards pursued two men who were on horseback, one
of whom being very badly mounted, narrowly es
caped by the stratagem of throwing down his coat
and cap, which the bear stopped to tear in pieces.
The priest had arranged to have a grand hunt on the
morrow, and we resolved to join in the sport. We
carefully prepared guns and revolvers, and at day-
Hght next morning rode over with Baptiste to St.
Alban's. We found a Httle colony of some twenty
houses, built on the rising ground near a smaU lake
and river. A substantial wooden bridge spanned
the latter, the only structure of the kind we had
seen in the Hudson's Bay territory. The priest's
house was a pretty white buUding, with garden
round it, and adjoining it the chapel, school, and
nunnery. The worthy father, M. Lacome, was
standing in front of his dwelling as we came up, and
we at once introduced ourselves, and inquired about

PERE LACOME 185
the projected bear-hunt. He welcomed us very
cordiaUy, and informed us that no day had yet
been fixed, but that he intended to preach a crusade
against the marauders on the foUowing Sunday, when
a time should be appointed for the half-breeds to
assemble for the hunt.
Pere Lacome was an exceedingly intelligent
man, and we found his society very agreeable.
Although a French Canadian, he spoke EngHsh very
fluently, and his knowledge of the Cree language
was acknowledged by the half-breeds to be superior
to their own. Gladly accepting his invitation to
stay and dine, we foUowed him into his house,
which contained only a single room with a sleeping
loft above. The furniture consisted of a smaU table
and a couple of rough chairs, and the waUs were
adorned with several coloured prints, amongst which
were a portrait of his Holiness the Pope, another of
the Bishop of Red River, and a picture representing
some very substantial and stoHd-looking angels,
lifting very joUy saints out of the flames of purgatory.
After a capital dinner on soup, fish, and dried meat,
with dehcious vegetables, we strolled round the
settlement in company with our host. He showed
us several very respectable farms, with rich corn-fields,
large bands of horses, and herds of fat cattle. He
had devoted himself to the work of improving the
condition of his flock, had brought out at great
expense ploughs, and other farming implements for
their use, and was at present completing a corn-miU,
to be worked by horse power. He had built a

186 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
chapel, and estabhshed schools for the half-breed
chUdren. The substantial bridge we had crossed
was the result of his exertions. Altogether this
Httle settlement was the most flourishing community
we had seen since leaving Red River, and it must be
confessed that the Romish priests far excel their
Protestant brethren in missionary enterprise and in
fluence. They have estabhshed stations at Isle a
La Crosse, St. Alban's, St. Ann's, and other places, far
out in the wilds, undeterred by danger or hardship,
and gathering half-breeds and Indians around them,
have taught with considerable success the elements
of civilisation as weU as religion; whUe the latter
remain inert, enjoying the ease and comfort of the
Red River Settlement, or at most make an occasional
summer's visit to some of the nearest posts.
In the evening we rode back to Edmonton, and
there found Mr. Pembrun, of Lac La Biche, who
had arrived to take command of the Company's
brigade of boats going with the season's furs to
Norway House, and Mr. Macaulay, of Jasper House,
who had come to fetch winter supplies. Mr. Pembrun
had crossed the Rocky Mountains several times in
years gone by, by Jasper House and the Athabasca
Pass, and on one occasion in the winter.
He related several stories of these journeys, and
amongst them one which bears a strong resemblance
to a weU-known adventure of the celebrated Baron
Munchausen, but which wiU be readily beheved by
those acquainted with the locahty in which it
occurred.

mr. pembrun's story. 187
The snow accumulates to a tremendous depth in
the vaUeys, and at his first camp in the mountains
he set to work to shovel away the snow with a snow-
shoe, after the usual manner of making camp in the
winter ; but having got down to his own depth with
out coming to the bottom, he sounded with a long
pole, when, not finding the ground, he desisted, and
bunt a platform of green logs, upon which the fire
and beds were laid. Passing the same place after
ward in the summer, he recognised his old resting-
place by the taU stumps of the trees cut off twenty
or thirty feet above the ground, showing the level of
the snow at his former visit.
A party of miners came in from White Mud
Creek, about fifty miles further up the Saskatchewan,
where a number of them were washing gold. The
captain of the band, a Kentuckian, named Love,
brought with him a smaU bag of fine gold-dust as a
specimen, and informed us that they had afready
made £90 a-piece since the beginning of the
summer. From what we heard from other sources
afterwards, however, there seems Httle doubt that
this statement was greatly exaggerated. Love had
been in CaHfornia and British Columbia, and had
reached the Saskatchewan by ascending the Fraser
in a boat, and thence crossing the mountains on foot,
by the Leather Pass to Jasper House. He was very
sanguine of finding rich diggings on the eastern side
of the mountains, and three of his company had
started on an exploring expedition to the sources
of the North Saskatchewan. Nothing had been

188 the north-west passage by land.
heard of them since their departure, two months
before. Mr. Pembrun told us that he had found gold in
a smaU stream near Jasper House, having been con
firmed in his discovery by Perry, the miner, a
celebrated character in the western gold regions, the
story of whose adventurous life he related to us.
Perry was a " down-east " Yankee, and at the time
of the gold fever in CaHfornia, crossed the plains
and Rocky Mountains alone. His means being too
Hmited to enable him to purchase horses, he put all
his effects in a wheelbarrow, which he trundled
before him over the 2,000 mUes to Sacramento.
Tiring of CaHfornia, he returned to the Eastern
States, but on the discovery of gold on the Fraser
River, resolved to try a miner's life once more. His
sole property on reaching Breckenridge, on the Red
River, consisted of a gun, a Httle ammunition, and
the clothes he wore. He borrowed an axe, hewed a
rough canoe out of a log, and paddled down the
river to Fort Garry, 600 miles. From thence he
proceeded on foot to Carlton, 500 mUes further, sup
porting himself by his gun. At Edmonton he joined
the party of miners about to cross the mountains,
and succeeded in reaching British Columbia, having
traveUed about the same distance he had formerly
done with his wheelbarrow.
This story brought out another from Mr. Har-
disty, of an episode in frontier life at Fort Benton,
a trading post of the American Fur Company, on
the Missouri, in the country of the Blackfeet. One

MR. HARDISTY'S STORY  THE CREE IN TRAINING. 189
day a solitary and adventurous Cree made his ap
pearance at the Fort on foot. Shortly after his
arrival, a body of mounted Blackfeet arrived, and
discovering the presence of one of the hostile tribe,
clamorously demanded that he should be given up
to them to be tortured and scalped. The trader in
command of the Fort was anxious to save the life of
the Cree, yet afraid to refuse to surrender him, for
the Blackfeet were numerous and weU armed, and
had been admitted within the stockade. After much
discussion, a compromise was agreed to, the white
man engaging to keep the Cree in safe custody for a
month, at the end of which time the Blackfeet were
to return to the Fort, and the prisoner was to be
turned loose, with a hundred yards' start of his
pursuers, who were bound to chase him only on foot,
and with no other arms but their knives.
The Blackfeet took their departure, and the Cree
was immediately put into hard training. He was
fed on fresh buffalo-meat, as much as he could eat,
and made to run round the Fort enclosure, at full
speed, for an hour twice every day.
At the expiration of the stipulated month, the
Blackfeet came to the Fort, according to their agree
ment. Their horses were secured within the waUs,
aU their arms except their knives taken from them,
and then the expected victim was escorted to the
starting-place by the whole staff of the establish
ment, who turned out on horseback to see fair play.
The Cree was placed at his post, 100 yards ahead of
his bloodthirsty enemies, who were eager as wolves

190 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
for their prey. The word was given, and away
darted the hunted Indian, the pursuers foUowing
with frantic yeUs. At first the pack of Blackfeet
gained rapidly, for terror seemed to paralyse the
Hmbs of the unfortunate Cree, and his escape seemed
hopeless. But as his enemies came within a few
yards of him, he recovered his presence of mind,
shook himself together, his training and fine con
dition began to tell, and, to their astonishment and
chagrin, he left them with ease at every stride.
In another mUe he was far in advance, and pulling
up for an instant, shook his fist triumphantly at his
baffled pursuers, and then quickly ran out of sight.
He eventually succeeded in rejoining the rest of his
tribe in safety.
In the course of a few days we again went over
to St. Alban's to look for the bears. M. Lacome
provided four half-breeds to accompany us, and
we spent the whole day in a fruitless hunt. We
found, indeed, places where the ground had been
turned up by the animals in digging for roots, but
none of the signs were very fresh.
The next day we made another search, assisted
by a number of dogs, but the bears had evidently
left the neighbourhood, and we returned to Ed
monton vastly disappointed.
We were obliged to stay some time longer at the
Fort, for the road before us lay through dense forest,
affording but Httle pasturage, and it was necessary
that the horses should be quite fresh and in the
highest condition before setting out on such a journey.

THE LITTLE CREE GIRL. 191
The time passed monotonously, the life in a Hudson's
Bay fort being most uneventful and "ennuyant."
We wandered from one window to another, or
walked round the building, watching for the arrival
of Indians, or the sight of some object of speculation
or interest. At dusk the scores of sleigh dogs set
up their dismal howling, and disturbed us in the same
manner at daybreak, from slumbers we desired to
prolong as much as possible, in order to shorten the
wearisome day. In this habit of howhng in chorus
at sunset and sunrise, the Indian dogs present another
point of likeness to wolves, which they so closely
resemble in outward form. One of the pack com
mences with short barks, and the others graduaUy
join in, and aU howl with might and main for about
five minutes. Then they cease as graduaUy as they
began, and aU is quiet again.
We found some amusement in visiting the tents
of the Indians and half-breeds who were encamped
near the Fort, and were much interested in a little
Cree girl, who was a patient of Cheadle's. She had
been out to the plains with her family, and on the con
clusion of peace between the Crees and Blackfeet, a
party of the latter came on a visit to the Cree camp.
On taking leave, a Blackfoot playfully snapped his
gun at the child; the piece proved to be loaded
with two bullets, which, entering the thigh of the
unfortunate girl, shattered it completely. When we
saw her she was wan and deathlike, but bore with
wonderful fortitude the pain of the probe and knife.
The parents were greatly disappointed with the

192 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Doctor's skiU, for common report had told them that
he would be able not only to remove the broken bone,
but also to replace it by an efficient substitute, and
thus restore the Hmb to its original condition.
At this time we made the acquaintance of Mr.
O'B., a gentleman of considerable classical attain
ments, on his way to British Columbia, whither,
however, he progressed but slowly, having left Red
River twelve months before. Mr. O'B. was an
Irishman of between forty and fifty years of age, of
middle height and wiry make. His face was long
and its features large, and a retreating mouth,
almost destitute of teeth, gave a greater prominence
to his rather elongated nose. He was dressed in a
long coat of alpaca, of ecclesiastical cut, and wore a
black wide-awake, which iU accorded with the week's
stubble on his chin, fustian trousers, and highlows
tied with string. He carried an enormous stick,
and altogether his appearance showed a curious
mixture of the clerical with the rustic. His speech
was rich with the brogue of his native isle, and his
discourse ornamented with numerous quotations from
the ancient classics. He introduced himself to us
with a Httle oration, flattering both to himself and
us, remarking that he was a grandson of the
celebrated' Bishop O'B., and a graduate of the
University of Cambridge ; we should readily under
stand, therefore, how dehghtful it must be for him, a
man of such descent and education, to meet with two
members of his own beloved university so intel
lectual as ourselves. He informed us that he was a

MR. O'B. RELATES HIS EVENTFUL HISTORY. 193
man of peaceful and studious habits, and utterly
abhorred the wild and dangerous life to which he
was at present unfortunately condemned. He next
astonished us by teUing us almost as much about our
relations, friends, and acquaintances as we knew
ourselves; their personal appearance, where they
Hved, what property they had, their families, expec
tations, tastes, pecuHarities, and his opinion of them
generaUy. All his statements were correct, and a
"rigid cross-examination failed to confound him. He
then proceeded to relate the history of his wandermg
and eventful hfe.
After leaving the university, he studied for the
bar, and became connected with the press ; then
went out to India, and edited a paper at Lahore.
After a year or two he returned to England. Finding
it somewhat difficult to succeed in the old country,
by the advice of an old coUege friend, who had
settled in Louisiana, he went out to seek his fortune
there. Before long he obtained a situation as secre
tary to a wealthy planter, and for a time Hved in
happiness and ease. But the vicissitudes of his
career had as yet only commenced. The civil war
between the Northern and Southern States broke
out, and the peaceful Mr. O'B. was startled out of
his dream of rest and safety by the bustle and
din of warHke preparations. Although sufficiently
alarmed at the prospect of hostihties, he yet flattered
himself that he would be considered a non-com
batant. One day, however, his friend the planter
came up to him in a great state of dehght and ex-

194 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
citement, and warmly shaking him by the hand,
said, " My dear O'B., aUow me to congratulate you
most heartily on the compHment which has been
paid you; you have been unanimously elected
Captain of the Home Guard."
The newly-elected captain was horror-struck —
visions of sharp-pointed bayonets directed against
his abdomen, and keen swords flashing in descent
upon his cranium, rose before his mental eye; the
roar of cannon and musketry, and the whistle of
bullets, seemed already to sound in his affrighted ears ;
wounds, agony, and death to stare him in the face.
Stammering out thanks, less warm than seemed
appropriate to the warhke Southerner, he stole away
from his disappointed friend, and secretly made pre
parations for escape. That night he took what httle
money he had in hand, and, leaving aU the rest of
his property behind, fled from the honour proposed
for him. He succeeded in getting across the lines
into the Northern States, and there obtained an ap
pointment as Classical Professor at one of the
colleges. This institution was, however, supported
by voluntary subscriptions, which faUed under the
pressure of the war, the staff was reduced, and Mr.
O'B. again cast adrift. He next anchored for a
short time near St. Paul, in Minnesota, and thence
proceeded to Fort Garry, with the intention of
estabhshing a school in the Red River Settlement.
Classics were, however, at a discount amongst the
half-breeds, and consequently Mr. O'B.'s merits as a
pedagogue were not properly appreciated by the

MR. O'B. PROPOSES TO ACCOMPANY US. 195
colonists. The projected academy utterly failed, and
after spending some time in Red River, at a dead
lock, he was fitted out by the kindness of Arch
deacon Cockran, the veteran missionary of this
country, with necessaries for a journey across the
mountains, in search of a more congenial community
on the Pacific coast.
He set out with the band of Canadian emigrants
before aUuded to, but they appear to have discovered
that he was helpless and requiring, and left him at
Carlton. From thence he was forwarded by the
Company's boats going back to Edmonton. A pre
judice against him arose amongst the men, and they
refused to proceed with him further than Fort Pitt.
He was therefore left behind at that place, and after
wards reached Edmonton by a train of carts. At
Edmonton he had remained nearly a year when we met
him, unable either to advance or to return, and in a
state of complete destitution. He had, however, re
ceived every kindness from the officers of the Fort,
who supphed him with food and tobacco.
Having narrated his history, he propounded the
real object of bis visit, which was to beg of us to allow
him to accompany our party to British Columbia.
Had it been an ordinary journey, or had we possessed
the means of obtaining a proper number of men and
horses, and plenty of provisions, we should not have
hesitated to take him with us, in spite of his helpless
ness. But such an addition to our company was any
thing but desirable, and we accordingly begged to
reserve our decision. Mr. O'B. had wintered with
n 2

196 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
some miners, who had built a cabin about a quarter
of a mile from the Fort. Left alone by their depar
ture in the spring, he Hved a soHtary and anxious
life, oppressed by fears of wolves, which howled close
by every night, and of grisly bears, reported to be in
the neighbourhood. He assured us that it was not
safe for him to remain longer at the cabin, since it
was built near some wiUows which were known to
be much frequented by these dangerous animals,
and he accordingly took up his quarters under one
of our carts.
He was now attacked by a number of ailments
which required the doctor's advice daUy, and seized
these opportunities to urge his request. After sub
mitting unflinchingly to active treatment for several
days, he at last confessed that his malady was imagi
nary, and merely assumed as an excuse for obtaining
private interviews. But Cheadle maliciously refused
to beHeve it, assured him he was reaUy seriously
unweU, and compeUed him to swaUow a tremendous
dose of rhubarb and magnesia.
After holding out several days, we were over
come by his importunity, and agreed that he should
form one of our party, in spite of the rebelhous
grumbling of Baptiste and The Assiniboine. Mr.
O'B. thanked us, but assured us that we had in
reality acted for our own interest, and congratulated
us upon having decided so wisely, for he should be
very useful, and ask no wages.
Mr. Hardisty, and the other offioers of the Fort,
tried earnestly to dissuade us from attempting to

THE LEATHER OR YELLOW HEAD PASS. 197
cross by the Leather Pass, alleging that the season
was not yet far enough advanced, and the rivers
would be at their height, swoUen by the melting of
the mountain snows. They assured us that many of
the streams were fierce and rocky torrents, ex
ceedingly dangerous to cross, except when low in
the autumn, and that the country on the west of the
mountains, as far as it was known, was a region
rugged and inhospitable, everywhere covered with
impenetrable forest; and even if we descended the
Fraser, instead of attempting to reach Cariboo, we
should find that river fuU of rapids and whirlpools,
which had often proved fatal to the most expert
canoemen. This pass, known by the several names
of the Leather, Jasper House, Cowdung Lake, and
Yellow Head Pass, had been formerly used by the
voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company as a portage
from the Athabasca to the Fraser, but had long been
abandoned on account of the numerous casualties
which attended the navigation of the latter river.
We were able to learn but little of the country
on the west of the mountains, nor could we obtain
any certain information of the course which the
Canadian emigrants intended to follow.
From Andre Cardinal, the French half-breed
who had guided the party across, we learned that
on reaching Tete Jaune's Cache, on the Fraser, at
the western part of the main ridge, the band divided,
part of them descending the Fraser in large rafts,
and the remainder turning south for the Thompson
River. Cardinal accompanied them until they reached

198 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
the main branch of the North Thompson, having been
guided thither by a Shushwap Indian from the Cache ;
and he further stated that, from a lofty eminence, they
had, Hke the Israelites of old, viewed the promised
land, the bills of Cariboo being visible in the far dis
tance. But, in cross-examination, his answers proved
very contradictory and obscure. He acknowledged
that the Indian knew the gold country only by
vague report, and had never visited the region he
pointed out as the land they sought. And he was
uncertain whether the emigrants intended to try
and reach Cariboo direct, or steer for Fort Kamloops
on the Thompson. He furnished us, however, with a
rough outline of the road as far as he had gone,
which, except as to relative distances, proved tolerably
correct. In addition to the large band which Andre Car
dinal had guided across the mountains, another party
of five had left Edmonton late in the autumn of
the same year, 1862, with the intention of procuring
canoes at Tete Jaune's Cache, and descending the
Fraser to Fort George.
Of the ultimate fate of any of these men, nothing
whatever was then known ; the only regular means of
communication between the eastern and western side
of the mountains being by the Company's brigade,
which goes every summer from Fort Dunvegan on
Great Slave Lake, by the Peace River Pass, to Fort
McLeod; and news brought by this party on their
return would not arrive until next year.
With the exception of the Peace River Pass, which

THE OTHER PASSES ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. 199
lies far away to the north, aU the other routes across
the Rocky Mountains, as yet known, He south of the
Leather Pass, and lead to the valley of the Columbia.
The Kicking Horse Pass, Howse's Pass, the Vermilion
Pass, the Kananaski Pass, and the Kootanie Pass
were aU explored by Captain Palliser's expedition, and
found to be practicable routes. But all these are
far to the south of the gold regions. The Athabasca
Pass, used occasionaUy by the Hudson's Bay Com
pany, strikes the Columbia River where it is joined
by the Canoe River, supposed to take its rise in
Cariboo. But the latter river, and the head waters of
the north branch of the Thompson, were entirely
unexplored. Mr. Ross indeed reached Canoe River in one
of his daring expeditions, but finding the country
covered with the densest forest, he turned back at
once. And Dr. Hector, who appears to have been
the most enterprising of aU the members of Captain
PalHser's expedition, although he made a determined
attempt to reach the head waters of the North Thomp
son from the sources of the North Saskatchewan, was
unable to get through. He encountered a forest-
growth so dense, and so encumbered with faUen
timber, that he had " neither time, men, nor provisions
to cope with it, and was nearly overtaken by the snows
of winter." He expected to be obHged to abandon his
horses, and was thankful to escape by turning south
to the more open region of the Columbia vaUey.
We therefore determined to adhere to our original
design of taking the Leather Pass, following the emi-

200 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
grants' traU as far as might seem desirable, and then
trusting to our imperfect maps and the sagacity of our
men, to reach either Cariboo or Fort Kamloops at the
grand fork of the Thompson, as circumstances might
render advisable.
Mr. O'B. utterly ignored the difficulties of the long
journey before him in his dehght at the prospect of
escaping from the wilds of the Saskatchewan, so un
congenial to his classical tastes and peaceful habits, to
the more civihsed society of British Columbia. But
although insensible to the more obvious danger's of
penetrating through an unknown country, without road
or guide, his peace of mind was seriously disturbed by
the reflection that a man so savage as The Assiniboine
would form one of the party. He came to us one day,
with most serious aspect and lengthened visage, re
questing a private interview on business of great
importance. We immediately went aside with him,
and he began : " My lord, and Dr. Cheadle, I am
sure you wiU thank me for a communication which
wiU enable you to escape the greatest danger. I have
been credibly informed that this ' Assiniboine ' — the
man you have engaged — is a cold-blooded murderer, a
villain of the deepest dye, who has been excommuni
cated by the priest, and is avoided by the bravest half-
breeds." We assured him that we afready knew aU
about it, and as the deed had been done in a fit of
anger, and under the greatest provocation, we had
decided that we were not justified in depriving our
selves of the services of a man so eminently qualified
for the undertaking we had in hand.

OUR HETEROGENEOUS PARTY. 201
"What!" said Mr. O'B., "you don't mean to tell
me that you really intend to trust your lives with such
a man?" We said we reaUy did intend it. "Then,"
said he, " in the name of your families, I beg to enter
my most solemn protest against the foUy of such a
proceeding;" and declared that, although he stiU in
tended to go with us, it was with the firm conviction
that we should aU faU victims to the bloodthirsty
Assiniboine. The Assiniboine, on his side, had an equaUy strong
prejudice against Mr. O'B., for he had learnt from
the men who had traveUed with him from Fort Pitt
how very helpless and troublesome he was, and pro
tested long and loudly against his being aUowed to
go with us. We overruled aU objections, however,
and by the beginning of June were prepared to set
out. Our party, a motley company, consisted of
seven persons — viz., ourselves, Mr. O'B., Baptiste
Supernat, The Assiniboine, his wife (commonly caUed
Mrs. Assiniboine), and the boy. We had twelve
horses, six of which carried packs. Our supphes
comprised two sacks of flour, of a hundred pounds
each ; four bags of pemmican, of ninety pounds each ;
tea, salt, and tobacco. These last were the only
luxuries we allowed ourselves, for as we could obtain
no provisions or assistance until we reached some
post in British Columbia, 700 or 800 mUes distant,
we sacrificed everything to pemmican and flour. But
Httle food of any kind could be obtained from the
country, through which we had to pass, and we were
ignorant how long the journey might take. We had

202 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
calculated on fifty days as the extreme limit, with
what accuracy will be seen hereafter.
We had some difficulty in procuring what we re
quired for the journey, having but little money left,
but by judicious barter we at length overcame the
difficulty, although, when we came to pay our biU
at the Fort, we were compeUed to beg off 3s. 4d.,
by which it exceeded the contents of our purse ! By
the kindness of the residents of the Fort, Mr. O'B.
was fitted out for the journey with horse and saddle,
forty pounds of pemmican, and some tea and tobacco.
The horses were by this time in fine condition, and
we resolved to set out at once, in order that we might
have plenty of time before us in case of unforeseen
delays, although we should thus encounter the rivers
at their highest flood, and the morasses in their
spongiest condition.

CHAPTER XII.
Set out from Edmonton — Prophecies of Evil — Mr. O'B.'s Forebodings
— Lake St. Ann's— We enter the Forest — A Rough Trail — Mr.
O'B., impressed with the Difficulties which beset him, commences
the Study of Paley — Pembina River — The Coal-bed — Game —
Curious Habit of the Willow Grouse — Mr. O'B. en route — Changes
wrought by Beaver — The Assiniboine' s Adventure with the Grisly
Bears — Mr. O'B. prepares to sell his Life dearly — Hunt for the
Bears— Mr. O'B. Protects the Camp— The Bull-dogs— The Path
through the Pine Forest — The Elbow of the McLeod — Baptiste
becomes Discontented — Trout Fishing — Moose Hunting — Bap
tiste Deserts — Council — Resolve to Proceed — We lose the Trail —
The Forest on Fire — Hot Quarters — Working for Life — Escape —
Strike the Athabasca River — First View of the Rocky Mountains
— Mr. O'B. spends a Restless Night — Over the Mountain — Magni
ficent Scenery — Jasper House — Wild Flowers — Hunting the
" Mouton Gris " and the "Mouton Blanc."
On the 3rd of June, 1863, we left Edmonton, amid the
good wishes of the kind friends we had made there.
But although they cheerfully wished us God speed,
* we found from the men that pubhc opinion at the Fort
had decided that our expedition would certainly end
most disastrously, (J) for they considered that the party
was too smaU, and comprised too many ineffectives, to
succeed in overcoming the difficulties we must neces
sarily encounter. We were not much disheartened
by these croakings, however, and started for St. Alban's
in the afternoon. Here we were joined by our friend
(') From Dr. Rae, who crossed by the same pass the following
summer, we learnt that a report had reached Edmonton to the effect
that we had all been murdered by The Assiniboine, who was return
ing rich in the possession of our horses and property.

204 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Mr. O'B., who had walked on the night before to
see the priest, and suffered dreadful anxiety at our
non-appearance until dusk. The next day we stayed
at St. Alban's, exchanging some lean horses for fatter
ones. Just before dark Mr. O'B. came to us, and
begged us to move on that evening, as the next day
would be the 5th of June, the anniversary of his de
parture from Red River, on the first stage of his
protracted journey to British Columbia, which had
proved so unfortunate, and he felt a superstitious
dread of the coincidence. However, it was already
too late, and Mr. O'B. had the opportunity of verify
ing the truth of his presentiments.
The road to Lake St. Ann's passed through a fertile
and park-Hke country for about fifty mUes, but at St.
Ann's the thick forest commences, which extends far
to the north, and westward to the mountains. St.
Ann's was, doubtless, chosen as the site for a settle
ment on account of the immense number of the core-
gonus, or white-fish, furnished by the lake, forming the
staple food of the inhabitants ; but it is iU adapted for
farming, on account of the timber, which has been very
partiaUy cleared away for Httle fields of potatoes and
grain. This disadvantage has already been felt by the
settlers, many of whom have migrated to the more
promising site of St. Alban's. The lake is a pretty sheet
of water, several miles in length, its shores dotted on
the western side by forty or fifty houses, and a church.
Mr. Cohn Fraser, the Company's officer, treated us
very kindly, gave us milk, potatoes, and delicious fresh
white-fish, and amused us over our evening pipes by
stories of the good old times, when the wood buffalo

MR. O'B. STUDIES PALEY. 205
were found in plenty as far as Peace River, and game
so abundant that starvation was unknown. He had
been thirty-eight years in the country, seventeen of
which he had spent at the soHtary post of Jasper
House, and told us that Cariboo deer and bighorns
were so numerous when he first went there, that a
" green hand" and a boy supphed the establishment
with ample provision during one winter, when the
regular hunter had died. Mr. Fraser had not seen
Fort Garry for thirty years, and for fifteen had not
been further than Edmonton, yet he was happy and
contented as possible.
When we left Lake St. Ann's the track led us
immediately into the densest forest, where the ground
was boggy and rotten, thickly covered with faUen
timber. The horses sank in up to their girths, and
every few yards were obHged to jump over the
obstruction in the path. Mr. O'B. was now deeply
impressed with the difficulties he encountered, and
declared that, although he had visited many countries,
he had never known what travelling meant before.
His assistance was Hmited to good advice, for he
was afraid to approach a horse, and when his help
was required to load the animals, he was invariably
missing. We generaUy ferreted him out, and found
him, hidden in the bushes, quietly smoking his pipe,
and dihgently studying the last remnant of his
Hbrary, the only book he took with him — Paley's
" Evidences of Christianity."
On the second day after we left Lake St. Ann's,
the road became rather better, there being a few
patches of open country, and the timber smaller,

206 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
clustering on the swells of the low undulations. At
noon we reached a large lake, and traveUed along
its banks for the remainder of that day. It appeared
to be weU stocked with wild fowl and fish, the latter
lying basking in the shaUows, hardly moving away
as our horses approached along the shore. The
mosquitoes were exceedingly troublesome, obliging
us to put up the Indian lodge we carried with us,
and we were frequently compeUed to get up in the
night to Hght a fire, in order to smoke them out
before we were able to sleep.
On the 11th of June we struck the Pembina
River, a clear, shallow stream flowing to the N.E.,
over a pebbly bed, between perpendicular banks of
some eighty feet high. These showed the section of
a magnificent coal-bed, from fifteen to twenty feet in
thickness. We easUy crossed the river by fording,
and on the further bank met a couple of half-breeds,
who were returning to St. Ann's from trapping
beaver. We stayed an hour or two examining the
coal, and prospecting the sand of the river for gold.
The coal was not of first-rate quaHty, having an
earthy fracture, and burning with duU flame and
much smoke, yielding a quantity of yeUowish-grey
ash. The piece we examined was not, however, a
fair specimen, being one we picked up from the
bed of the river, which was strewn with blocks and
fragments. Coal has also been discovered on the
McLeod, Athabasca, Smoky, Peace, and Mackenzie
Rivers to the north ; and on the Saskatchewan, Battle,
and Red Deer Rivers to the south. A section of

THE GREAT COAL-FIELDS. 207
it appears in the chff of the river-bank at Edmonton,
where it is used for the forge. The lignite strata
have been thus observed at numerous points, scat
tered over more than ten degrees of latitude, but
invariably in nearly the same longitude.
A Hne drawn from Mackenzie River to the point
where Red Deer River joins the South Saskatchewan
would give the Hne of coal formation observed with
tolerable accuracy. These coal fields are of enormous
extent, and wUl doubtless one day form a large
element of wealth in this richly-endowed country
of the Saskatchewan.
After investigating the coal we set to work to
wash for gold in the sand-bars, and were rewarded
by finding what miners caU " the colour," i.e., a few
specks of the finest gold-dust which remain with the
black sand left behind when the rest of the " dirt" is
washed away.
For the next two or three days the country pre
sented the same shghtly undulating character, thickly
wooded, with hardly a single break, and without
any eminence from which a view could be obtained.
The only sound ground was on the low narrow
ridges which separated the wider shaUow vaUeys.
These latter are occupied by " muskegs," or level
swamps, the surface of which is covered with a mossy
crust five or six inches in thickness, while a thick
growth of pines and the faUen timber add to the diffi
culties of the road. No one but a Hudson's Bay voya
geur would dream of taking horses into such a region.
We met with occasional tracks of the moose and

208 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
black bear, and at first a few ducks on the ' streams
and lakes ; but as we pierced further into the forest,
the waters were untenanted by wild fowl. Pigeons,
wood partridges, and pine partridges became very
plentiful, and we shot them at first in great numbers.
The wood partridge, or wiUow grouse, frequents the
thick woods and the low grounds, and is found on both
sides of the Rocky Mountains; when disturbed, it
generaUy flies up into a tree, and if there are several
together, they tamely sit to be shot, one after the
other. In the spring, the male bird exhibits himself
for the delight of the female in the foUowing manner.
He sits upon a branch, and ruffling his feathers, and
spreading his tail like a turkey-cock, shuts his eyes,
and drums against his sides with his wings, pro
ducing a sound remarkably Hke distant thunder.
When thus engaged, he becomes so absorbed in the
performance, that he wiU aUow any one to approach
him near enough to snare him with a noose attached
to a short stick. By the middle of June, the par
tridges were surrounded by broods of young, and we
ceased to shoot them. When we encountered them,
the hen bird, and often the cock also, would come
rushing up to within a couple of yards of us, with
wings spread, and feathers erect, just Hke a barn
door hen protecting her chickens. The pine partridge
is rather larger than the willow grouse, darker-
feathered, like an EngHsh grouse, with a scarlet
patch over the eyes, and is found only in the " mus
kegs" or pine swamps. The pigeon is the beautiful
long-taUed passenger pigeon, so common in the

MR. 0*B. " EN ROUTE." 209
American woods ; we found this bird as far west as
the sources of the North Thompson.
A curious bird, which we met with only between
the Pembina and Athabasca, and which we called the
"booming swaUow," attracted our attention, but we
were never able to obtain a specimen of it. It was
about the size of a pigeon, with long, narrow wings,
like those of the swift. It careered about in the air
after the same fashion, apparently catching flies, and,
when at a great height, would dart down like an arrow,
making a strange booming sound, which can only be
compared to the swelling hum of a thrashing machine
at the time when a sheaf of corn is put into it. We
never saw this bird in any other part of America.
Mr. O'B. employed his time in increasing the
enmity which the men had conceived for him by his
disHke for work, and his imperative manner when
demanding their services. He did not attempt to
assist in packing his own horse, but required the help
of the men to roU up his blanket, or stow away his
pemmican. Obstinately persisting, in spite of aU re
monstrances, in marching last of the single file in
which we traveUed, he frequently lagged behind;
when he found that the party ahead were out of sight,
which was the case every few yards, from the close
ness of the trees, terror took possession of him, and
he sat down, without attempting to seek the path,
making the woods ring again with his cries for help.
The first time this occurred, we stopped the train in
some alarm, and Baptiste hurried back to see what
could have happened, when, to his disgust, he simply

210 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
found Mr. O'B., seated on a faUen tree, bawHng with
aU his might. After this, neither of the men would
go back for him, and the duty devolved upon us.
Mr. O'B. was a man of most marveUous timidity.
His fears rendered his life a burden to him. But of
aU the things he dreaded — and their name was legion
— his particular honor was a grisly bear. On this
point he was a complete monomaniac. He had never
yet seen a grisly bear, but he was in the daUy ex
pectation of meeting one of these terrible animals, and
a sanguinary and untimely end at the same time.
As he walked through the forest, the rustle of every
leaf and the creaking of the trunks seemed, to his
anxious mind, to herald the approach of his dreaded
enemy. The Assiniboine, taking advantage of his
weakness, cured him for a time of his carelessness in
losing sight of the party, by lying in wait, hid
amongst the trees close to the track, and as Mr. O'B.
passed by, set up a most horrible growHng, which
caused him to take to his heels incontinently, and for
several days he kept near protection. As we sat round
the camp-fire one evening, a rustiing in the bushes
attracted our attention, and we were startled for a
moment by the sight of a dark, shaggy object moving
along, which, in the dim, fitful fire-Hgbt, looked very
like a bear. Mr. O'B. rushed up to us in abject
terror, when the animal, passing into clearer view,
disclosed a foot clothed in a moccasin, and we recog
nised the boy, enveloped in a buffalo robe, and creeping
on aU fours, to practise on the fears of " Le Vieux."
On the third day after leaving Pembina River,

CHANGES IN THE COUNTRY EFFECTED BY BEAVER. 211
we rested to dine at a marshy meadow formed by
the damming up of the stream by beaver, exactly
sinular to those we noticed near Dog River and at
Edmonton. But now these places were of the greatest
value to us, for they afforded almost the only open
grassy spaces we found with pasturage for our horses
until reaching the mountains. They were very com
mon along our track, the grassy mound and bank
across showing the old beaver house and dam in most
cases. Nearly every stream between the Pembina and
the Athabasca — except the large river McLeod — ap
peared to have been destroyed by the agency of these
animals. The whole of this region is little more than
a succession of pine swamps, separated by nanow
ridges of higher ground, and it is a curious question
whether that enormous tract of country, marked
" Swampy" in the maps, has not been brought to this
condition by the work of beaver, who have thus
destroyed, by their own labour, the streams necessary
to their existence. (x)
On the evening of this same day we encamped
early in a Httle open space on the bank of a smaU
stream, one of the very few we met with in this part.
Cheadle and The Assiniboine started up the river in
search of beaver, but the former, seeing some trout
rising, turned back in order to fish for them, and The
Assiniboine went on alone. The camp was made,
(*) Hugh Miller explains the formation of peat-mosses in Scotland
in a similar manner. The timber felled by the Romans to make
roads through the forest dammed up the watercourses ; pools were
thus formed, which were gradually converted into mosses, by the
growth and decay of aquatic plants.
o 2

212 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Cheadle came in at dark with some fish, and we had
supper. Mr. O'B. went to bed, and the rest sat
smoking and wondering what made The Assiniboine so
late, when the door of the lodge was Hfted, and he
entered, HteraUy trembHng with excitement, and for
some time hardly able to explain the cause, merely
saying, in his French patois, " J'etais en pas mal de
danger. J'ai vu les ours gris, proche — proche !" and
devoted himself to smoking a pipe, which his son im
mediately fiUed and handed to him. When suffi
ciently calmed down by the composing weed, he
related his adventures. He had found beaver up the
stream and shot one, which sank, and he was unable
to secure it. Wandering on for some time without
meeting with anything more, he turned back, just
before dusk, and retraced his steps. When he arrived
within a few hundred yards of the camp, he heard a
rustling in some underwood near by, and thinking
the horses had strayed there, turned aside into the
cover to drive them back. Instead of seeing the
horses he expected, he found himself face to face with
an enormous grisly bear, which was engaged in tear
ing open a rotten trunk in search of insects. On the
appearance of The Assiniboine, the animal desisted
from its employment, and advanced towards him with
a terrible growling and Hps upcurled, displaying her
great teeth and enormous mouth. The first bear was
now joined by two others of rather smaller size, who
came running up, attracted by the growling. The
Assiniboine, an old and practised hunter, stood his
ground firmly, and as the old bear came within two
or three yards, suddenly threw up his arms. This

THE ASSINIBOINE AND THE GRISLY BEARS. 213
a usual device in hunting the grisly bear, caused
the animal to stop for a moment and sit up on her
hind legs, giving an opportunity for a steady shot.
The Assiniboine took a deliberate aim, and pulled the
trigger, but, to his dismay, the snapping of the cap
only foUowed. He puUed the second trigger, and
that missed fire also. Strange to say, the bear did
not attack him, and as he continued to show a firm
and immovable front, retired with the others, and
all three stood watching him. At every attempt
he made to move, one or other rushed towards him,
growling fiercely. This continued for some time, but
at length they resumed their occupation of breaking
up the rotten logs, and he stole off unperceived. He
was not, however, content to leave them undisturbed
after his narrow escape. When weU out of sight he
stopped, poured fresh powder into the nipples of his
gun, and re-capped it. He then crept cautiously round,
so as to approach them from an opposite quarter. He
found them stiU in the same place, occupied as before.
Crouching behind a natural banicade of fallen trees,
he took a fair dehberate shot at the old bear. Again
both barrels missed fire, and the three, aroused by the
snapping of the caps, looked round, and quickly per
ceiving him, rushed up, growhng and showing their
teeth, but stopped as they came to the banier of trees,
which they fortunately made no attempt to pass. The
same scene previously described was now re-enacted,
the animals resenting any sign which the man showed
of retiring, but refraining from actual attack. At last
they aU suddenly set off at speed, and after a time The
Assiniboine reached the camp without further molesta-

214 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
tion. The man probably owed his Hfe to his courageous
bearing, and the circumstance that his gun missed fire,
for had he wounded one of them, aU three would cer
tainly have attacked and, undoubtedly, kiUed him.
Whilst The Assiniboine was relating his exciting
adventure, Mr. O'B. lay roUed in his blanket, quite
unconscious that anything unusual had occurred, not
understanding a word of the mixed patois of Cree and
French in which The Assiniboine spoke. Milton
therefore said in EngHsh, " Mr. O'B., The Assiniboine
has been attacked by three grisly bears, close to camp."
At the word bears he sat bolt upright, his countenance
betraying the greatest anxiety, and eagerly asked if it
was reaUy true, and how it happened. We told him
the story, and as he Hstened his jaw feU ruefully, and
his face assumed an agonised expression. "Doctor," said
he, when we had finished, " it's no use shutting our
eyes to the fact ; we are in a most serious position —
in very great danger. Jamdiu expectans expectavi!
This is a most terrible journey ; wiU you do me a great
favour, and lend me your revolver? for I am resolved
to seU my life dearly, and how can I defend myself
if the bears attack us in the night ? I'm an unarmed •
man." " Oh, certainly," repHed Cheadle, producing the
pistol, and playfully working the hammer up and
down with his thumb ; " with the greatest pleasure ;
here it is : oh, yes, if you like : perhaps, under the
circumstances, you had better take it ; but I ought to
teU you that you must be extremely careful with
it, for it is in the habit of going off of its own accord."

TRACKING THE GRISLY BEARS. 215
Mr. O'B. hastily drew back his hand stretched out
to take the pistol, considered — hesitated — and at last
decided that perhaps he had better not meddle with so
dangerous a weapon. He contented himself with taking
the large axe to bed with him, although it may be
doubted whether he would have used it very effec-
tuaUy if occasion had required. We were aU much
excited at The Assiniboine's story, and at once resolved
to go in pursuit of the bears at daybreak next morning.
As soon as it became Hght we prepared for the
hunt. The woman and boy were to accompany us in
order to search for the beaver which The Assiniboine
had kiUed the night before, Mr. O'B., to his infinite
dismay, being left alone in charge of the camp. He
remonstrated strongly, and ddated upon the probability
of the bears taking advantage of our absence to attack
the undefended position. Finding we were inflexible,
" Delirant reges, plectuntur Achivi," said Mr. O'B. dis
consolately, and immediately retired within the lodge,
let down the door, made up a tremendous fire to scare
away the enemy, and remained seated, with the axe by
his side, in anxious expectation until our return. We
proceeded under the guidance of The Assiniboine to the
scene of his adventure the previous evening. There
we found every detaU of his nanative confirmed — the
rotten trunks torn asunder, the huge footprints of the
bears in the soft sod or long grass, worn into a beaten
track where they had so repeatedly charged up to
him, his own track as he took the circuitous route to
his second position behind the logs ; and leading away
from the place, the marks of the three bears going

216 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
off at speed. It appeared, however, that they had
not left the neighbourhood until that morning, for
we found very fresh tracks crossing the stream, and
on the opposite bank, a wet line marked by the drip
pings from the shaggy coats of the animals after
emerging from the water.
We foUowed on, The Assiniboine leading, at a great
pace, yet with wonderful stillness, through the thick
underwood, finding from time to time fresher and still
fresher signs — a rotten log newly torn open, a bees' nest
just dug up, and footmarks in which the grass seemed
still rising after the removal of the pressure. We were
in a high state of excitement, stealthUy advancing, with
guns cocked and bated breath, expecting every moment
to see their terrible forms close to us, when we came upon
a hard, grassless stretch of ground, where the men were
unable to foUowthe tracks, and, after a long search, were,
much to our chagrin, compeUed to give up the pursuit.
MUton and Baptiste returned to camp to pack up
and proceed on the journey, Cheadle and Assiniboine
being bent on foUowing a fresh moose-track which we
had crossed. They rejoined the party before nightfaU,
without having succeeded in finding the animal they
had foUowed.
When MUton arrived near the camp, he observed
Mr. O'B.'s head cautiously protruded from the lodge
door, taking an observation, and when he perceived
that human beings, and not bears, were approaching,
he ventured forth, welcoming them with great glee,
and discoursing on the dreadful suspense he had
endured during their absence.

MR. o'B. S WARNING, AND FOREBODINGS. 217
On the following day, when Cheadle was about
to start ahead of the party, for the sake of meet
ing with game, Mr. O'B. warned him to be very
careful, advising him to load both barrels with baU,
and carry his gun on full cock, ready for emergency.
Cheadle, however, told him it was necessary to have
one banel loaded with smaU shot for the feathered
game, and marched off laughing, Mr. O'B. looking
after him with an expression of pity, and shaking his
head ominously. MUton and the rest traveUed on
nearly the whole day, wondering that they did not
find Cheadle at mid-day, as usual, waiting for them in
some convenient camping ground. Cursing his foUy
for leading them so far, they at last pulled up in
despair, and waited, in the behef that he must have
lost his way. Mr. O'B., however, took a different
view. " My lord," said he to MUton, " you may
depend upon it the Doctor has met those bears. I've
warned him repeatedly against the rashness of walking
alone in this way. It was only this very morning, as
you heard, I advised him to be careful, and load both
banels with baU. But he only laughed at me, and
walked off with his gun on half-cock, carelessly thrown
over his shoulder. And now you see the terrible con
sequences. Medicus ipse mortaHs. There is not the
sHghtest doubt that he has been surprised by those
three bears, and torn to pieces, poor feUow !" Mr.
O'B.'s prophecies of evU were, however, upset by the
appearance of the missing man. He had lost his way
in a series of swamps, and with some difficulty retraced
his steps to the right track. Then he had a long,

218 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
stern chase to catch the rest, who had, in the meantime,
passed on before him.
A short stage in the afternoon, passing through
firmer ground, still thickly covered with pines, and
ankle-deep in a profusion of oak and beech fern,
brought us to the banks of the McLeod, where we
camped for the night.
The McLeod is a fine stream, about 150 yards
broad, flowing over a rocky, pebbly bed, and clear and
shaUow like the Pembina. The channel of the latter
where we crossed it was clean cut through soft strata,
with perpendicular cliffs on either side; whUst the
banks of the McLeod are wider apart, rising steeply,
but not verticaUy, to a greater height, and richly
clothed with pine and aspen. The McLeod is subject
to great floods at certain seasons, as evidenced by the
great boulders strewn high along the shore, and the
fioUections of driftwood accumulated at different points
and turns of the river. On the foUowing day we
forded it without difficulty, and sending the men for
ward with the pack animals, hitched our horses to a
tree, and stopped to prospect for gold.
After washing two or three pans of " dirt," we
found but sHght and doubtful traces of the precious
metal, and re-ascended the bank to foUow our party.
Our horses had, however, broken loose and disap
peared, but after a short distance, we discovered
Milton's, puUed up by the bridle, which had caught
on a stump. The other horse was not to be found.
We came up with the train, resting at a beaver
swamp, and found that Cheadle's horse had joined the

THE "bull dogs." 219
rest, but without bridle. The large axe, too, had
tumbled out of one of the packs, and we were com
peUed to delay a couple of hours whUst the men went
back in search of the missing articles. The bridle
was found, but the axe — far more important, since it
was the only large one we possessed — we did not
recover. The heat was very great, and the mosquitoes and
gad-flies — caUed "buU-dogs" by the half-breeds — tor
mented the horses to such an extent that, in spite of the
large green-wood fire which we made for their benefit; —
the smoke keeping off the insects — they were unable
to feed, and rushed madly about in their distress. The
" bull-dog," or tabanus, is a large fly, about twice the
size of a " bluebottle," with a long body, banded with
yeUow, Hke that of the wasp, and its mouth is armed
with a formidable cutting apparatus of four lancets.
They are very numerous in wooded or swampy
country, and are very fierce and persistent in their
attacks on both men and animals. The " buU-dog "
settles Hghtly and unnoticed on any exposed portion
of the skin, and the first warning of his presence
is a sharp stab, Hke that of a needle, which makes
the sufferer wince again. There is, however, no
after-irritation or sweUing, as is the case with the
sting of a mosquito. The horses suffer dreadfuUy
from these creatures in the summer, and their necks — a
part which they cannot reach with either head or tail
to brush off their tormentors — are covered with
great clusters of these vampires, and dripping with
blood.

230 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
After crossing the McLeod, we continued to follow
the western bank pretty closely, the road being worse
than any we had yet encountered, the ground very
boggy, and the pines closely set. The traU is merely
cut of sufficient width to aUow of one horse with his
pack to pass, and this is encumbered with roots and
faUen trees, for the traveUers in this region never delay
to remove any obstructions a horse can possibly be
forced to jump or scramble over. The mossy crust
having been broken through by repeated tramplings,
the horses sink up to their hocks in the boggy sub
stratum, while the thick waU of timber on either
side prevents any escape to firmer ground. A day's
journey on the road to Jasper House generaUy con
sists of floundering through bogs, varied by jumps and
plunges over the timber which Hes strewn, pUed, and
interlaced across the path and on every side. The
horses stick fast in the mire, tumble crashing amongst
the logs, or, driven to desperation, plunge amongst
the thickly-growing trees at the side, where they are
generaUy quickly brought up by the wedging of their
packs in some narrow passage between contiguous
trunks. On the 16th we reached a point where the river
makes a great bend to the south, and the trail turns off
at right angles to avoid it. Here a smaU river enters
the McLeod, and the hiUs are seen swelling higher
towards the west. In the smaUer stream we observed
some fish rising at the fly, and on the banks fresh
beaver " sign," with here and there tracks of moose
and bear. As the horses had had Httle food for two

HUNTING AND, FISHING. 221
or three days, and some burnt ground offered better
pasturage than usual, we decided to rest for a day,
and try our luck in hunting and fishing. Cheadle
and The Assiniboine set out at daybreak in search of
moose, whUe Milton and the rest devoted themselves
to the trout. Mr. O'B. also, attracted by the prospect
of a meal on something more savoury than pemmican,
essayed to fish ; but he splashed about so restlessly,
and met with so Httle encouragement, that he soon
wearied of his employment. Baptiste showed a most
discontented and rebeUious spirit at this time, re
fusing to put up the lodge where MUton directed him,
and, after some altercation, sulkily packed up his smaU
property, declaring he should leave at once. However,
he changed his mind, and took to fishing with the rest.
A nice dish of fish was caught before evening, amongst
which were two or three large white trout, from the
McLeod, several of the smaU banded trout, and some fish
resembling dace. Before dark Cheadle and The Assini
boine came back again, without having met with any
large game. They had foUowed a fresh moose track a
long distance, found the place where the animal had
been recently lying down, and as he lay puHed the
twigs within his reach, the sap being stiU moist where
the bark had been abraded by his teeth. The sagacity
with which the hunter foUowed the tracks was very
wonderful. Without hesitation he passed rapidly
and noiselessly amidst the thick wood, and over the
thickly-pUed fallen trunks, at a pace which his com
panion found it difficult to keep up with, never over
running or neglecting the foot-prints, which to Cheadle's

222 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
less instructed eye were quite invisible, except on the
closest scrutiny. The hunter has not only to keep
his eye on the traU, but also to look out constantly for
the animal he is foUowing, which he may come upon
at any moment, and carefuUy avoid breaking a dry
twig, or making a rustHng in the underwood through
which he passes. Amongst the few quaHties of the
Red Indian, good or evU, which have not been
exaggerated are his power of sight, sagacity in foUow
ing a track, and interpreting the signs he meets with.
He wUl often foUow a moose for days, and in winter,
when the sound of the breaking through of the crust
on the snow beneath his feet would betray his
approach, wiU carefully cut out each footstep with his
knife. The moose in this case had changed his
quarters, and the pursuit was given up.
Our dish of fish in the evening was an immense
treat, and but for the ominous taciturnity of Baptiste,
we should have been jolly enough. In the morning
affairs looked brighter, Baptiste cheerfully helped to
pack the horses, talked away as usual, and seemed
quite contented. Cheadle started in advance of the
party, and after an hour or two puUed up to await
the anival of the train. When it came up, Baptiste
was missing, and MUton was the first to perceive
his absence. The Assiniboine declared he knew
nothing more than that he stayed behind after the
train started to light his pipe, as he said, and he
expected him to make his appearance very shortly.
We travelled on tiU noon, and then, as Baptiste did
not jcome, we felt convinced that he really had de-

BAPTISTE DESERTS. 223
serted, and stopped to hold a solemn councU on the
course to be taken under this change of circumstances.
Baptiste had probably never intended to go with us
further than this point, and had taken the opportunity
to raise a dispute in order to have some excuse for his
conduct. He had canied off one of the most valuable
horses, and a smaU amount of provision. It was
useless to attempt to foUow him, unless we de
termined to turn back to Edmonton. But we were
firmly resolved to proceed with our expedition, come
what might, although we could not conceal from our
selves that the work would be very heavy. We had
thirteen horses to pack and drive through the thick
woods ; the one-handed Assiniboine, with his wife and
boy, were our only assistants; and Mr. O'B. represented
a minus quantity. At least six or perhaps seven
hundred mUes of the most difficult country in the
world lay before us, and not one of the party had
ever previously set foot in this region. But we
resolved to trust to The Assiniboine, if he would
give his solemn promise to stand by us in every
emergency, having confidence that his wonderful
sagacity would be sufficient to find the road. We
therefore at once proposed to him that he should
be raised to Baptiste's position, and greater emolu
ments, as guide — requiring only his solemn engage
ment to go through with us to the end. We sent him
to consult his wife, and after a short conversation with
her, he came back to say that they were both determined
to stick to us faithfuUy, and he felt no doubt about being
able to find the emigrants' track without difficulty.

224 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
On the next morning we again struck the
McLeod, and continued to foUow it for a couple of
days. In a smaU tributary we caught a few trout in
a somewhat novel manner. WhUst dinner was being
prepared, we went down to the stream with the boy,
to fish with some of the gad-flies which we caught
on the horses. A number of trout were lying in
the shade of a large overhanging alder, and we
disposed ourselves along the trunk, in order to drop
the tempting fly before the noses of the fish.
Cheadle, in his eagerness to accompHsh this, feU
head first into the water with a tremendous splash,
and the boy, in his amusement at his companion's
misfortune, shpped also, and splashed in after him.
Finding that the fish immediately returned to the
protecting shade, in spite of their fright, and were
even then too sleepy to take the bait, we set the
boy to manage the fly, whilst we stirred up the fish
judiciously with a long pole. They were then suffi
ciently roused from their lethargic state to notice the
bait, and a good dish of them secured. Not one had
been taken before this device was adopted.
The traU now led along the bed of the river,
and, becoming fainter and fainter, The Assiniboine
began to suspect that we had strayed from the main
track to Jasper House, and were foUowing some
casual hunter's or miner's path. We therefore en
camped at noon in the middle of a thick forest
of young pines. The trees grew very closely together,
and we were obHged to cut a clear space for the horses
and our own camp. The Assiniboine started off to

WARM WORK. 225
search for the proper path, the woman and boy to the
river to wash some clothes, and we remained behind
with Mr. O'B. The " bull-dogs " were very numerous,
and we built a large fire, for the benefit of the horses
in the Httle open space we had cleared. We then
proceeded to make a smaUer one for ourselves, and
were quietly seated round it cooking our pemmican,
Mr. O'B. having divested his feet of his boots, lying
at his ease, and smoking his pipe with great satis
faction. Suddenly a louder crackling and roaring of
the other fire attracted our attention, and, on looking
round, we saw, to our honor, that some of the trees
sunounding the Httle clearing we had made, had
caught fire. The horses, in their pushing and strug
gling to supplant one another in the thickest of the
smoke, had kicked some of the blazing logs among
the closely-set pines, which, although green, burn
more fiercely than the driest timber. The moment
was critical enough. Cheadle, seizing an axe, rushed
to the place, and feUed tree after tree, to isolate
those afready fired from the rest, whUst MUton ran to
and fro, fetching water in a bucket from a Httle
pool, which was fortunately close at hand, and pourod
it on the thick, dry moss through which the fire
was rapidly spreading along the surface of the ground.
We were, by this time, nearly surrounded by blazing
trees, and the flames flared and leapt up from branch
to branch, and from tree to tree, in the most appaUing
manner, as they greeddy Hcked up, with a crackle and
splutter, the congenial resin of the trunks, or devoured
with a flash and a fizz the inflammable leaves of the

226 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
flat, wide-spreading branches. The horses became
frightened and unmanageable, some of them burst
through the thick timber around, in spite of the flames,
and one, severely burnt about the legs, threw himself
down, and roUed in his agony in the very hottest of the
fire. We dropped axe and bucket, hauled at him by
the head and tail in vain, and at last, in desperation,
beat him savagely about the head, when he sprang up,
and bolted away. But the delay caused by this inci
dent had nearly been fatal. The fire had rapidly
gained head, the air became hot, and the smoke almost
stifling, the flames raged fiercely with terrific roar, and
for a moment we hesitated whether we should not
abandon aU, and make for the river. But we took
courage, snatched up hatchet and pail once more,
and as each tree feU, and patches of moss were ex
tinguished, we began to hope. WhUe we were thus
busUy engaged in our frantic exertions, it occurred to
us that Our friend Mr. O'B. had hitherto given us no
assistance, and, looking round, descried him stiU seated
where we had left him, feebly tugging at a boot which
he appeared to have great difficulty in pulling on.
We shouted to him, for God's sake, to come and help
us, or we should aU be burnt to death. He rephed, in
a doubtful, uncertain manner, that he was coming
directly, when he had got his boots on. Roused at
length by our fierce objurgations, and struck by the
suggestion that he would burn as easUy with his boots
off as when properly shod, he ran up, trembling and
bewildered, bringing a tardy and ineffectual assistance
in the shape of half-pints of water in his Httle tin

THE ATHABASCA. 227
mug ! GraduaUy, however, we succeeded in cutting
off the fire, which still raged fiercely away from us,
recovered our horses, and found that even the one
which had caused us such anxiety was not seriously
injured, although singed aU over, and much burnt
about the legs.
The Assiniboine came back soon after, having
found the road, and we therefore re-packed the horses,
rapidly retraced our steps to the point where the traUs
diverged, and camped there for the night. Clouds of
smoke visible during this and the foUowing day
behind us, showed that the fire was stiU burning
furiously. The next day we turned off at right
angles from the McLeod, passing through the usual
routine of muskeg and pine forest, and before night
came were drenched through and through by the rain
of the most tremendous thunder-storm we ever en
countered, with the exception of the memorable one on
Red River. At our evening's camping place we found
an inscription on a tree, to the effect that the three
miners who had left the party in the Saskatchewan to
find out the sources of that river, discovering that they
were close to the Athabasca, had turned back to prospect
the sources of the McLeod. Heavy rain continued to
faU without intermission the foUowing day, and we
were obHged to remain under shelter of our lodge.
But the foUowing morning broke clear and bright,
and a good trad of about half a mUe brought us to
the banks of the Athabasca, flowing Hke the Saskat
chewan, in a channel cut in the flat bottom of the
wide river-vaUey, the steep sides of which, 200 feet
p 2

228 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
in height, were thickly clothed with pine, spruce, and
poplar, resembling those of the McLeod. The river-
valley of the Athabasca is, however, deeper and wider,
and its waters turbid, deep, and rapid. At this time
it was tremendously swollen — at the height of the
summer flood — and formed a striking contrast to the
clear, shallow stream we had crossed before. FuU to
the overflowing of the present banks, the stream, some
200 yards in breadth, rushed along, swelling in great
waves over the huge boulders in its bed, and bearing
along large pine-trees of five or six feet in diameter,
which played about like straws in the powerful
current. This river is caUed by the Indians Mistahay
Shakow Seepee, or the "Great River of the Woods,"
in distinction to the Saskatchewan, the Mistahay
Paskwow Seepee, or " Great River of the Plains."
We viewed it in some dismay, for there seemed Httle
hope of rafting across it in safety in its present con
dition. We were reHeved, however, by finding that
the track still foUowed the bank of the river, and
from a little bare and rounded knoU we had our first
view of the Rocky Mountains. The prospect was a
glorious one, and most exhUarating to us, who had
Hved so long in level country, and for the last three
weeks had been buried in dense forest, which shut out
every prospect, and almost the light of day.
Ranges of pine-clad hiUs, running nearly north and
south, rose in higher and higher succession towards the
west, and in the further distance we could see parallel
to them a range of rugged, rocky peaks, backed by
the snow-clad summits of some giants which towered

FIRST VIEW OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 229
up beyond. The snow which crowned the loftier
peaks, and stiU lingered in the hoUows of the lower
hills, glittered in the brilliant sunhght through the
soft blue haze which meUowed the scene, and brought
the far-distant mountains seemingly close before us.
A cleft in the ridge, cut clean as if with a knife,
showed us what we supposed to be the opening of the
gorge through which we were to pass. The singular
rock on the left or eastern side of this gateway, some
what like the half of a sponge-cake cut verticaUy, we
knew must be one of which we had heard as La Roche
a, Myette, close to Jasper House. FoUowing the river-
vaUey, we traveUed through thick timber, marshes,
and boggy ground, pleasantly varied occasionaUy by
beautiful park-like oases of an acre or two in extent,
and crossed several smaU streams, swoUen into muddy
torrents. In the evening we encamped on a tiny prairie,
rich with vetches in fuU bloom. The frost set in
keenly, so that water left standing in the cups over
night showed an incrustation of ice one-eighth of an
inch thick in the morning; and Mr. O'B., who
persisted in wearing boots in preference to moccasins,
found them frozen so hard that we were compeUed to
delay our start until they were thoroughly thawed.
The next day, at noon, we reached a very picturesque
little lake, circular in shape, and shut in on every side
by lofty mountains, with rugged, precipitous sides.
A soHtary loon, resting alone on the surface of the
lake, sent forth its melancholy wail, and added to the
wUdness of the place.

230 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
The flowers in the open glade were very gay;
tiger HHes, roses, the GaUardia picta, the blue borage,
the white and purple vetch, red orchis, and the marsh
violet were the most conspicuous. After leaving the
lake, tracks diverged in different directions, and the
one we foUowed ended at the river's edge. We, how
ever, discovered an old, grown-up track, which also
came to an end very quickly, where was a rough log
structure, which appeared to have been used as a cache
for meat, for it was too smaU to have served as a dweU-
ing. The river here widened into a lake about a nnle in
length, and some half a mUein breadth. We encamped
for the night, hoping to recover the right trail on the
monow. The mosquitoes and gad-flies were more
tormenting than ever, and the horses wandered rest
lessly about aU night long. Mr. O'B., who chose to
make his bed in the open air, passed a wakeful time,
in expectation of being trampled to death by the
horses, who persisted in walking over him in, spite of
the thumpings they received from a long pole which
he invariably kept beside his bed for the purpose, and
before dayHght he crept into the lodge for safety.
Milton, dreaming at the time, woke up with a shout,
and Mr. O'B. cried out in tenor, " Oh, dear ! oh, dear!
this is perfectly horrible — what has happened ? It's
only me — O'B. — don't shoot, my lord!" Every one then
woke up, and there was a general commotion; but
finding .the alarm groundless, aU returned to their
blankets, except the unhappy cause of the disturbance,
who remained sitting out the hours of darkness, too
discomposed for sleep.

!f ' O&Da ,#V }M^-

A DIFFICULT PATH. 231
On the morrow we remained in camp, mending
moccasins, and fruitlessly fishing, whilst The Assini
boine searched for the right trail. He returned in the
evening, having found the path, stiU foUowing the
river. The trail began to ascend the river bank, and
we presently encountered a thick smoke. A Httle
further we found the path completely obstructed by
faUen trees, and obhterated by the effects of a fire
which was stiU smouldering. Although this was en
couraging, as evidence of the recent presence of man,
we made very slow progress ; now chopping through
the trees which baned the road, now descending to
seek the very brink of the river, now again ascending
the steep hUl side, so as to avoid as much as possible
the difficulties which beset us. The Assiniboine
brought us out about noon where the path showed
clearly on a Httle open plateau, covered with wild
flowers, at the base of the " Roche a. Myette," which
rose perpendicularly above. Here we unpacked the
horses and stayed to rest.
In the afternoon we saw numerous fresh tracks of
the bighorn, or " mouton gris," the wUd sheep of the
Roeky Mountains, 0 and The Assiniboine and Cheadle
scaled the steep sides of the mountains, which now
closely shut in the vaUey, in pursuit. The rest passed
on along a weU-markedtraU, which ascended abruptly,
0) The bighorn is something like an ordinary sheep, but with
very large head, and curhng horns of enormous size. The "mouton
Wane" resembles the common goat, but has soft, white hair, more
like wool. The Indians of British Columbia weave beautiful blankets
of this material. Both the "mouton blanc" and "gris" frequent
the highest crags, and are active as the chamois.

232 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
to avoid a precipitous cHff overhanging the river at
this point. Higher and higher still it led them, along
rocky ledges or up steep, green, sHppery slopes, until
it reached the point where vegetation ceased, separated
by a rocky precipice from the height of perpetual
snow. The horses frequently stopped, and tried to
turn back from their arduous task, and Mr. O'B.'s
steed, a powerful roan staUion, in high condition,
cooUy lay down and refused to proceed. Mr. O'B.
shpped off with great celerity, remarking, "Poor feUow !
my weight is too much for him." The horse took ad
vantage of the opportunity and began to descend, his
owner remarking, indifferently, that it was no use at
tempting to fetch him, as he was far too exhausted to
proceed further. Milton and the boy, however, speedily
brought him back to the rest, and before long the
utmost height was reached. We were now fairly in the
Rocky Mountains, and even the woman and boy cried
out, " Aiwarkaken !" with dehght and admiration at
the magnificent scenery around. On every side a
succession of peaks towered up, of strange fantastic
shape. To the west, the Priest's Rock, a pyramid of
ice, shone brightly above a dark pine-clad hiU; to
the east, the remarkable Roche a, Myette; in front
and behind, conical, pinnacled, and rugged mountains.
Hundreds of feet immediately beneath rushed the
tonent of the Athabasca. Emerging from the heart
of the mountains through a narrow gorge into the
wider vaUey, the river expands into a lake three or
four miles in length ; then again narrowing, flows in
several channels round the wooded islands, to open out

VIEW FRIIM THE HILL OPPOSITE .TVSPER HOUSE. — THE UPPER LAKE OF THE ATHABASCA RIVER A>"D PRIEST'S ROCK.

(See page 232.)

A GARDEN OF WILD FLOWERS. 233
once more into a second lake, smaller than the first.
On the further bank of the river, between the two
lakes, they had the satisfaction of seeing, like a mere
speck in the vaUey below, the Httle wooden building
we had beeu so anxiously expecting to reach, for until
it lay actuaUy in view, it was very uncertain that we
were reaUy foUowing the road to Jasper House, and
not some mere hunter's track into the mountains.
Descending into the vaUey again by a similar path,
MUton and his party camped in a Httle sandy plain
opposite the Fort, to await the arrival of Cheadle and
The Assiniboine. Jasper House is a neat white build
ing, surrounded by a low pahsade, standing in a
perfect garden of wild flowers, which form a rich sheet
of varied and brilHant colours, backed by dark green
pines which clustered thickly round the bases of the
hills. Above, a zone of Hght green shrubs and herbage
stUl retained their vernal freshness, and contrasted
with the more sombre trees below, and the terraced
rocks above with their snow-clad summits. In the
neighbourhood of Jasper House the flowers were
very beautiful and various. Here grew Cinerarias, in
the greatest profusion, of every shade of blue, an
immense variety of Composite, and a flower Hke the
lychnis, with sepals of brilHant scarlet, roses, tiger
HHes, orchids, and vetches.
WhUe Milton, with Mr. O'B., the woman, and boy,
were taking the train of horses over the mountain,
Cheadle and his companion clambered up the crags
close to the Roche a Myette, foUowing the tracks of
the mouton gris. Along narrow ledges of a precipice

234 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
of Hmestone rock, up to a giddy height, the hunters
struggled on, breathless and their legs aching with
the exertion of climbing such as they had long been
strangers to, without catching sight of a bighorn.
When they had ascended 700 or 800 feet, they espied
a mountain goat — mouton blanc — feeding quietly,
along with a kid by its side, a few hundred yards in
advance. Making a long detour, and going higher
yet, to get above the animal, they crawled cautiously
along to the point where they had last seen the goat,
and, peering over the edge of a rock, saw its face
looking upwards, about twenty yards below. The
rest of the body was bidden by a projecting stone,
and Cheadle fired at the forehead. The animal
tumbled over, but got up again, bewUdered, making no
attempt to escape. The Assiniboine now got a sight
of the shoulder and fired, when the animal scrambled
away, with difficulty, a short distance. They quickly
foUowed and found it almost dead. Having no
more baU, The Assiniboine kiUed the kid with a
charge of shot. On going up to the game, it appeared
that the first shot had merely struck the frontal bone,
close to the root of the horn, which it tore off without
further damage ; but the shock had so stunned the
beast, that it was unable to move away. The hunters
pushed the goat and Md over the precipice, and
scrambled down after it. Looking up at the precipice
from below, it seemed as if not even a goat could find
footing, and Cheadle wondered he had ever dared
to venture there. They found also, now the excite
ment of the chase was over, that their moccasins were

RETURN OF THE HUNTERS. 235
cut to shreds, and they had been walking nearly
barefoot over the sharp rocks without noticing it
at the time. The best portions of the meat were cut
off the goat, and slung, together with the Md, on a
pole, and each shouldering an end, the two started
after the rest of the party. They had now to ascend,
the mountain- side, to which Mr. O'B.'s horse had so
objected — a very arduous task, with their heavy
load. Many a halt was made before they gained
the summit. It was nearly dusk, and far below,
two or three mUes away, they saw the Hght of
the camp fire. Being thoroughly done, and feeHng
almost unable to carry their prize much further, they
sat down and fired a number of signal shots for the
others to bring a horse for the meat. These were
presently answered, and the pair took up their load
again to descend, hoping to meet assistance before
long. This was almost more harassing than the
chmbing up, the grass and " Uva Ursi," on the lower
slopes, being very sHppery ; but at last they reached
the bottom, and coming to a stream, The Assiniboine,
thoroughly beaten, dropped the load, and plunged his
head in the water to refresh himself. Soon after,
MUton and the boy came up with a horse, to carry
the meat, and that night we aU enjoyed the most
dehcious supper we had eaten since leaving Edmonton.
Since that time — three weeks before — we had not
tasted any fresh meat, with the exception of a few
wood partridges, and the roast kid was an immense
treat, causing even Mr. O'B. to forget his troubles, for
a time.

CHAPTER XIII.
Making a Raft — Mr. O'B. at Hard Labour — He admires our "Youth
ful Ardour"— News of Mr. Macaulay— A Visitor— Mr. O'B. Fords
a River — Wait for Mr. Macaulay — The Shushwaps of the Rocky
Mountains — Winter Famine at Jasper House — The Wolverine —
The Miners before us — Start again — Cross the Athabasca — The
Priest's Rock— Site of the Old Fort, "Henry's House"— The
Valley of the Myette — Fording Rapids — Mr. O'B. on Horseback
again — Swimming the Myette — Cross it for the Last Time — The
Height of Land — The Streams run Westward — Buffalo-dung Lake
— Strike the Fraser River — A Day's Wading — Mr. O'B.'s Hair
breadth Escapes — Moose Lake — Rockingham Falls — More Tra
velling through Water — -Mr. O'B. becomes disgusted with his
Horse — Change in Vegetation — Mahomet's Bridge — Change in
the Rocks — Fork of the Fraser, or original Tete Jaune Cache —
Magnificent Scenery — Robson's Peak — Flood and Forest — Horses
carried down the Fraser — The Pursuit — Intrepidity of the Assini
boine — He rescues Bucephalus — Loss of Gisquakarn — Mr. O'B.'s
Reflections and Regrets — Sans Tea and Tobacco — The Extent
of our Losses — Mr. O'B. and Mrs. Assiniboine — Arrive at the
Cache.
We arrived opposite Jasper House on the 29th of
June. The Fort was evidently without inhabitants,
but as the trail appeared to lead there only, we pur
posed to cross the river at this point, and set to work
to cut timber for a raft. On the 30th we laboured
hard with our two smaU axes, felling the dry pine-
trees, while Mr. O'B. devoted himself to the study of
Paley, over a pipe. It was late in the afternoon
before sufficient timber was cut down, and it had then
to be carried several hundred yards to the river's edge.

MR. O'B. AT HARD LABOUR. 237
Mr. O'B. was required to assist in this, but he had
disappeared. We made dUigent search for him, and
at last found him, squatted behind a bush, stiU
enjoying his book and pipe. We apologised for inter
rupting his studies, and informed him that aU hands
were now required in order to get the wood down to the
river's edge as quickly as possible, so as to be able to
cross before dark. Mr. O'B. assured us that he had
been looking forward with eager impatience for an
opportunity of giving his assistance, but got up and
followed us with evident reluctance, and impressed
upon us that his weak and delicate frame was quite
unfit for heavy work. A few of the largest trunks
were canied with difficulty by the united strength of
our whole party, and we were then detaUed into
parties of two, for the transport of the rest. MUton
paired off with O'B., Cheadle with The Assini
boine, and the woman with the boy, for the lesser
trees. Mr. O'B. shouldered, with a sigh, the smaUer
end of the log, his feUow-labourer the other, and
they proceeded slowly towards the shore. After
the first few steps O'B. began to utter the most
awful groans, and cried out, continually, " Oh, dear !
Oh, dear! this is most painful — it's cutting my
shoulder in two — not so fast, my lord. Gently,
gently. Steady, my lord, steady ; I must stop. I'm
carrying aU the weight myself. I shaU drop with
exhaustion directly — triste lignum te caducum." And
then, with a loud "Oh!" and no further warning,
he let his end of the tree down with a run, jarring his
unhappy partner most dreadfuUy. A repetition of

238 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
this scene occurred on each journey, to the great
amusement of every one but the unfortunate sufferer
by the schoolmaster's vagaries. At last, hurt repeatedly
by the sudden dropping of the other end of the load,
MUton dispensed with Mr. O'B.'s assistance, and
dragged the trunk alone. The Assiniboine coming
up at the moment, indignantly vituperated Mr. O'B.,
and, shouldering the log, carried it off with ease.
The sun was setting when this portion of our task was
over, and we decided to defer crossing until the morn
ing. As we were engaged discussing Mr. O'B.'s
delinquencies, and commenting rather severely upon
his pusUlanimity, he overheard us, and came up, with
the imperturbable confidence which he always dis
played in aU social relations, remarking it was aU very
weU for Cheadle, who had " shoulders Hke the Durham
ox, to treat gigantic exertion of this kind so lightly,
but I assure you it would very soon kUl a man of my
dehcate constitution." Cheadle remarked that MUton
was of sHghter buUd than himself, and he did his
share without complaint. "Ah! yes," repHed Mr.
O'B., "he is fired with emulation. I have been lost
in admiration of his youthful ardour aU the day !
Optat' ephippia bos — but you see I am older, and
obHged to be cautious ; look how I have suffered by
my exertions to-day!" — showing us a smaU scratch
on his hand. We exhibited our palms, raw with
Misters, which caused him to turn the conversation by
dUating on his favourite topic — the hardships of the
fearful journey we were making.
Milton and the boy had volunteered to swim

FORDING. 239
across with horses, in order to carry ropes to the
other side with which to guide the raft — a somewhat
hazardous adventure, as the river was broad, and
the stream tremendously rapid ; but before our pre
parations were completed on the foUowing morning,
a half-breed made his appearance in our camp — a wel
come sight after our soHtary journey of three weeks.
He informed us that he was one of Mr. Macaulay's
party who were out hunting. The party had divided
at McLeod River, and were to meet at the Fort that
day. He advised us to cross the river some miles
higher up, beyond the lake, where the stream was
more tranquU, and thereby avoid the River MaHgne on
the other side, which it was very hazardous to attempt
to ford at this season.
We accordingly raised camp, and proceeded, under
his guidance, along the bank of the river for four
or five mUes. On the way we forded several streams,
or more probably mouths of one river, flowing
into the Athabasca from the south, very swoUen
and rapid. We crossed them on horseback without
much difficulty, by carefully foUowing our guide;
but Mr. O'B., having taken a rooted dishke to
equitation, since his horse lay down with him when
ascending the mountain, perversely resolved to wade
across. We pulled up on the further side and watched
him, as he foUowed, cautiously and fearfully, steady
ing himself by the stout stick which he invariably
carried. He went on with great success until he
gained the middle of the stream, when he suddenly
plunged into a hole, where the water was nearly up to

240 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
his arm-pits. He cried out wildly, " I'm drowning !
Save me ! save me !" then, losing his presence of mind,
applied, in his confusion, the saying of his favourite
poet, "In medio tutissimus ibis," and struggled into
deeper water still, instead of turning back to the
shaUow part. He was in imminent danger of being
carried off, and MUton dashed in to the rescue, and
brought him out, chnging to his stirrup. He was
dreadfuUy frightened, but graduaUy recovered com
posure when assured we had no more rivers to ford
for the present.
In a short time we reached a sandy plain, richly
clothed with flowers, and camped close to a clear
shaUow lake, communicating by a narrow outlet with
the upper Athabasca Lake. Here we decided to remain
until Mr. Macaulay arrived. On scanning the heights
beyond the lake with a glass, we saw a large flock of
bighorns on the loftiest crags, and The Assiniboine and
his son went out to hunt, but returned unsuccessful,
having been so enveloped in the mountain mists that
they found it impossible to proceed.
During the day several more half-breeds arrived
with their wives and famUies, and in the evening two
Shushwap Indians made their appearance, and set to
work to spear white-fish by torchlight. The few they
obtained they gladly sold us for a Httle ammunition and
tobacco. These were the first specimens of their tribe
which we had seen. They were lean and wiry men, of
middle stature, and altogether of smaUer make than the
Indians we had met before ; their features were also
smaller, and more finely cut, whUe the expression of

THE SHUSHWAPS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 241
their faces was softer and equaUy intelhgent. They
were clothed merely in a shirt and marmot robe,
their legs and feet being naked, and their long black
hair the only covering to their heads. These Shush
waps of the Rocky Mountains inhabit the country in
the neighbourhood of Jasper House, and as far as
Tete Jaune Cache on the western slope. They are
a branch of the great Shushwap nation, who dweU
near the Shushwap Lake and grand fork of the
Thompson River in British Columbia. Separated from
the main body of their tribe by 300 or 400 miles of
almost impenetrable forest, they hold but little com
munication with them. OccasionaUy a Rocky Moun
tain Shushwap makes the long and difficult journey
to Kamloops on the Thompson, to seek a wife. Of
those we met, only one had ever seen this place. This
was an old woman of Tete Jaune Cache, a native of
Kamloops, who had manied a Shushwap of the moun
tains, and she had never re-visited the home of her
youth. When first discovered by the pioneers of the
Hudson's Bay Company, the only clothing used
by this singular people was a smaU robe of the skin
of the mountain marmot. They wandered barefoot
amongst the sharp rocks, and amidst the snow and
bitter cold of the fierce northern winter. When
camping for the night they are in the habit of
choosing the most open spot, instead of seeking the
protection of the woods. In the middle of this they
make only a smaU fire, and He in the snow, with their
feet towards it, Hke the spokes of a wheel, each in-

242 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
dividual alone, wrapped in a marmot robe, the wife
apart from her husband, the child from its mother.
They Hve by hunting the bighorns, mountain goats,
and marmots; and numbers who go out every year never
return. Like the chamois hunters of the Alps, some
are found dashed to pieces at the foot of the almost
inaccessible heights to which they follow their game ;
of others no trace is found. The Shushwaps of
Jasper House formerly numbered about thirty fami-
Hes, but are now reduced to as many individuals.
Removed by immense distances from all other In
dians, they are peaceable and honest, ignorant of
wickedness and war. Whether they have any religion
or not, we could not ascertain ; but they enclose the
graves of their dead with scrupulous care, by hght
pahngs of wood, cut, with considerable neatness,
with their only tools — a smaU axe and knife.
They possess neither horses nor dogs, carrying aU
their property on their backs when moving from place
to place ; and when remaining in one spot for any
length of time, they erect rude slants of bark or mat
ting for shelter, for they have neither tents nor houses.
As game decreases the race wiU, doubtless, graduaUy
die out still more rapidly, and they are aHeady fast dis
appearing from this cause, and the accidents of the chase.
The half-breeds who had arrived at our camp were
aU short of provisions, and eagerly offered moose-skins
and various articles in exchange for smaU quantities
of pemmican and flour. We were very anxious to
husband our supphes, but could not see them want,
or refrain from asking them to share our meals.

TUV. WOLVERINE AT JASPER HOUSE. 243
On the 3rd of July Mr. Macaulay arrived, and set
up his tent close to our lodge. His hunt had not been
a very successful one, and as he had only a few days'
supply of bighorn mutton, would be compeUed to set
out again almost immediately. He was therefore
quite unable to replenish our stock, but invited us to
sup on some dehcious trout which he had caught in
one of the mountain lakes the day before. He
informed us that a winter rarely passed now without
a great scarcity of provisions at Jasper House, and their
being driven to horse-flesh as a last resource. From him
we also heard another anecdote of our old enemy, the
wolverine. When returning to the Fort from a hunting
expedition at the beginning of the previous winter,
Mr. Macaulay was surprised to find that aU the
windows of the budding, which are of parchment, were
gone. He fancied that some one had broken in to rob
the place. On entering he searched about, yet found
nothing ; but hearing a noise in the room overhead,
he went up and there discovered a wolverine, which was
chased and killed. He had Hved on the parchment
windows in default of more usual food, and had been
so satisfied with his diet, that his natural curiosity
had slept, and strangely enough, he had not investi
gated the packages of goods which lay about.
We learnt from Mr. Macaulay that the three miners,
of whom we had heard at Edmonton as having gone to
prospect the sources of the North Saskatchewan, and
whose notice we had seen on the tree when we first
struck the Athabasca, had aheady passed on their way
across the mountains to Cariboo. At Mr. Macaulay's <J2

244 THE. NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
suggestion, we engaged an old Iroquois half-breed to
accompany us as far as Tete Jaune Cache. As we had
no money, he was to receive one of our pack-horses in
payment. We tried to persuade him to go forward to
the end ; but he did not know anything of the country
beyond the Cache and would not venture further. (1)
At this point Mr. O'B.'s provisions came to an end.
His 401bs. of pemmican, which he was very positive
would last him until the end of the journey, had rapidly
disappeared before his vigorous appetite. Mr. Macaulay
kindly furnished him with a Httle tea and tobacco, and
we supplied the necessary pemmican, with many
exhortations to him to use it carefully, for a prospect
of starvation was discernible even now.
On the 4th of July, we started again, under the
guidance of the Iroquois, and were accompanied by
Mr. Macaulay and two of his men to the point where
we were to cross the Athabasca. The path lay through
water, often up to the horses' girths, or along the
steep sides of the narrowing vaUey, and it was already
dusk when we reached our destination. We camped
for the night by the river's edge, at a place where was
plenty of dry timber, some of which had been already
cut down for a raft by the Canadian emigrants. On
one of the trees the names of those of whom we had
(l) The Iroquois are Canadian Indians, so celebrated in our war
with the French in Canada. They are perhaps the most expert canoe-
men in the world, and were employed by Sir George Simpson and
other governors of the Hudson's Bay Company, in their journeys
from Canada through the Hudson's Bay territories, most of which
were performed by water. Many stayed behind at the different forts, ,
and at this day Iroquois half-breeds are met with at the Company's
forts even in British Columbia.

CROSSING THE ATHABASCA RIVER, IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

(See page 245 J

RAFTING ACROSS THE ATHABASCA. 245
heard from Mr. Macaulay as being just before us, were
inscribed, and a statement that they crossed on the
16th June, or nearly three weeks before.
In the morning aU set to work, cutting and cany-
ing timber, Mr. Macaulay working with the rest ; but
Mr. O'B., as before, could not be found. As the last log
was carried down to the water, he suddenly came up
with — " Oh ! dear, can I be of any use, my lord ? — can
I help you, Doctor ? " We expressed our sonow that
he was too late, but The Assiniboine was very angry,
and vowed he should not come on board the raft. It
required the exercise of aU our authority to overrule
his determination, and we saw in this occurrence signs
pregnant of future trouble. By noon the raft was
ready, and we drove our horses into the stream. When
we had seen them safely across, we rewarded our half-
breed friends by dividing the last remains of our rum
amongst them — a treat they appreciated above every
thing — and bidding a hearty good-bye to Mr. Macaulay
and the rest, pushed off on our adventure. The stream
at this place was deep, wide, and tranquil, and we
crossed without difficulty or mishap. Before we were
fairly over we found that we had left one of our two
remaining axes behind ; but we did not turn back to
regain it, since it was no light matter to navigate so
large a raft. Had we known how sorely we should
need this axe afterwards, we should not have spared
any trouble to obtain it.
We landed on a sparsely timbered flat, where the
trees had aU been destroyed by fire, packed the horses,
and traveUed a few miles before sundown. By noon

246 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
on the following day, and stUl foUowing the Athabasca,
we reached a beautiful little prairie, surrounded by
fine hiUs green almost to their summits, and over
topped by lofty snow-clad peaks. One of these,
which has received the name of the Priest's Rock,
was of curious shape, its apex resembling the top of a
pyramid, and covered with snow. The prairie was
richly carpeted with flowers, and a rugged excrescence
upon it marked the site of the old Rocky Mountain
Fort, Henry's House.
The track, leaving the vaUey of the Athabasca
at this point, turned towards the north-west, and
entered a narrow rocky ravine, the vaUey of the
river Myette. The stream was not more than thirty
yards in width, but deep and rapid, and its bed beset
with great rocks and boulders. The path was ob
structed by large stones and faUen timber, lying so
thickly that our two men were kept hard at work
aU the afternoon, and the horses progressed only by
a succession of jumps. We made but a short distance
with great labour, and camped for the night on the
banks of the stream.
For the whole of the next morning the road pre
sented the same difficulties, and our advance was as
slow as on the preceding day. At mid-day we reached
the place where we were to cross the river, and puUed
up to make a raft. After crossing by this means, we
toUed on through a ravine so narrow, and where the
mountains came down so close to the water's edge, that,
in order to pass them we were compeUed to traverse
the stream no less than six times more before evening.

CROSSING THE MYETTE. 247
In each of these cases we crossed on horseback, the
river now being a succession of rapids, not more than
four or five feet deep. These passages of the river were
difficult, and many of them dangerous, for the water
was very high, and the current extremely powerful.
At the last fording-place, the waters rushed down
a swift descent in a foaming cataract, raging and bod
ing so fiercely round great rocks which studded the
channel, that we hesitated before we ventured to urge
our horses forward. But the Iroquois led the way, and
crossed safely, although his horse staggered about and
hardly held his own. We then drove the pack-horses
before us, and plunged in. The water streamed over
our horses' shoulders, as they struggled against the
current, and shpped amongst the smooth boulders,
tumbling about and regaining their footing in the most
wonderful manner. Mr. O'B. was compeUed to mount
his steed again for this occasion, and, judging from the
despairing expression of his countenance, he did so with
httle hope of reaching the other side in safety. He
was exhorted carefully to foUow the Hne taken by the
guide, and MUton and the woman rode on either side
of him. Clutching the mane with both hands, he did
not attempt to guide his horse, but employed all his
powers in sticking to the saddle, and exhorting his
companions, " Steady, my lord, please, or I shaU be
swept off. Do speak to Mrs. Assiniboine, my lord ;
she's leading us to destruction ; what a reckless woman !
' varium etmutabile semper femina ! ' Mrs. Assiniboine !
— Mrs. Assiniboine ! oh, dear ! oh, dear ! what an
awful journey ! I'm going ! I'm going ! Narrow escape

248 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
that, my lord! very nanow escape, indeed, Doctor.
We can't expect to be so lucky every time, you know."
And the moment he gained the shore, he scrambled off
and left his horse to its own devices.
Many of the pack-horses were carried off far down
the stream, and we fuUy expected some of them would
be lost, but they eventuaUy aU struggled ashore. The
only damage we suffered was the wetting of the flour
and pemmican, but by immediate care the injury was
in great measure repaired.
The next day we foUowed the south bank of the
Myette, the narrow strip of flat between the moun
tain sides of the vaUey and the river being very boggy,
and much of it under water. A few hours of this
disagreeable travelling brought us to the last crossing
of this aggravating river, where we expected to have
to construct a raft. On reaching the place, however,
we observed a smaU " cajot," or raft, moored by wU-
lows to the opposite bank, left there doubtless by the
three Americans who had passed a few weeks before.
The boy volunteered to swim his horse over and
fetch it across, and, stripping to his shirt, mounted
and rode into the water. The horse soon swam to the
other side, but the bank was steep, and he reared and
feU back in attempting to scramble up. The boy
sHpped off, but regained his seat, and, becoming
frightened, turned the horse's head and swam back
again to us, without accomphshing anything. The
Assiniboine now resolved himself to try and bring the
raft over, and by his direction we drove aU the horses
across, with the exception of one. They aU succeeded

LEAVE THE VALLEY OF THE MYETTE. 249
in chmbing up the bank at various points, and then
The Assiniboine, having tied the end of a long rope to
the tail of the remaining horse, stripped and drove
him in, holding on to the mane with his only hand.
They crossed and landed with little difficulty, but the
rope had become unfastened, and we were yet in a
quandary how to bring the raft across at once, for the
river was too deep for any pole, and too wide for the
rope to be thrown across. In this dUemma we fastened
one end of the rope round the body of the dog Papillon,
which The Assiniboine had brought with him, and
when caUed by his master he swam across with it.
We then ferried aU the baggage over in a few voyages,
and bade final adieu to the unkindly Myette with
immense satisfaction. We pursued our way along the
base of the pine-clad hills, now beginning to diverge
more widely, and through scenery which bore a
strong Hkeness to the beautiful vale of Todmorden, in
Yorkshire. One of the snowy peaks closely resembled
the pyramidal Priest's Rock, and white-topped moun
tains rose up more thickly around us.
Extensive fires had swept over this portion of
country years before, and great trees lay fallen across
the path, tangled and interlaced on every side. We
had great difficulty in driving the horses along, for
they continuaUy forked out of the track, to escape the
baniers across it, and hid themselves in the thick wood.
We met with many severe faUs, in jumping our horses
over the fallen trees, which were often so close together
that there was barely standing room between for the
horse, from which to take a second spring over the

250 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
succeeding trunk. We camped that night on the
banks of a smaU stream, a source of the Myette, which
our Iroquois told us was named Pipestone River. The
place was very pretty, a tiny plain, covered with
flowers, and sunounded by the Rocky Mountains in
aU their grandeur.
The path proved easier the next day, the 9th of
July, the fifth day after leaving Jasper House, and in
the course of our morning's journey we were surprised
by coming upon a stream flowing to the westward.
We had unconsciously passed the height of land and
gained the watershed of the Pacific. The ascent had
been so gradual and imperceptible, that, until we had
the evidence of the water-flow, we had no suspicion
that we were even near the dividing ridge.
The next afternoon found us encamped at Buffalo-
dung Lake, which the Iroquois assured us was weU
stocked with trout; and several Shushwap slants
of bark, and frames for drying fish, bore out his
assertion. The lake consists of two portions, connected
by a short, nanow channel. The mountains appeared
to rise immediately out of the water on the further
or southern shore of the lake, whUst close behind us,
on the northern side, commenced verdant and swelling
hills, the bases of loftier heights, which rose up
further back in many a naked, ragged rock or ice-
crowned peak. Two of these on opposite sides of the
lake were particularly fine, one to the north-west, the
other to the south-west ; and the Iroquois assured us
that they should be known from that time forth as
" Le Montagne de MUord" and " Montagne de Docteur."

A DAY'S WADING. 251
We, however, took the Hberty of naming them Mount
FitzwUham and Mount Bingley. The lake was
drained by a smaU stream issuing from the western
extremity, and ultimately falling into the Fraser.
On the 10th we struck the Fraser River, sweeping
round from the south-west through a narrow gorge,
to expand some miles lower down into Moose Lake.
Our route now lay along the north bank of the
Fraser, and the travelling was exceedingly difficult
and harassing. The river had overflowed its banks
up to the almost perpendicular sides of the straitened
vaUey in which it is confined. The track was
completely under water up to the horses' girths,
and we spent the greater part of the day in wading
and the rest in toiling through swamps beset
with faUen timber. It was impossible to stop, for
there was neither dry place in which to camp nor
pasture for the horses, and we therefore traveUed on
untU dark, very thankful to find a place of rest at
last. All agreed that it was the hardest day we had
yet gone through, and Mr. O'B. had two of his hair
breadth escapes, which formed a text for him to
discourse about the perUs and sufferings which he
encountered " on this most extraordinary journey."
Since his successful crossing of the Myette, he had
been somewhat more reconcUed to horseback, and on
this day mounted his steed rather than wade on foot.
Soon after we set out, he dropped behind the
rest of the cavalcade, and before long, Cheadle,
who was driving some of the hindmost horses,
was anested by a most tremendous bawhng for

252 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
help from the rear. He ran back in haste, and
found Mr. O'B., in rather muddy condition, and with
very disconsolate air, leading his horse by the bridle.
It appeared the horse had shied and pitched him off
amongst the logs and debris around, and he imagined
himself severely hurt. But no important injury
could be found, and, by dint of great persuasion, and
active assistance, Cheadle induced him to re-mount,
and exhorted him to keep close up to the rest. But
he was too muc'i afraid of his horse to urge him on by
any but the most gentle, verbal persuasion, and tender
pattings on the neck. He was soon left behind again,
and the ears of the party saluted by another
succession of piteous cries from the rear. Cheadle
again went back to his assistance, in very unamiable
mood, but was unable to resist a burst of laughter
when he came upon the unfortunate Mr. O'B. He
was driving his horse before him, with the saddle
under its beUy, and the bridle trailing on the ground.
He was covered with mud, his long- visage scratched
and bleeding, and his clerical coat, spHt asunder to the
neck, streamed from his shoulders in separate halves.
" Very nearly kUled, Doctor, this time. I thought
it was aU over. ' Semel est calcanda via lethi,' you
know. My horse feU and roUed on to me, tearing my
coat, as you see. I've had a most providential escape."
He could not be persuaded to mount again, and had a
wearisome time with his horse, which, if he offered to
lead it, hung back and refused to budge, and when he
drove it before him, persisted in going the wrong way.
But if this 10th of July was a hard and harassing

MOOSE LAKE. 253
day, the 11th was still worse. In the first place, we
were delayed a long time in starting, for Bucephalus
was not to be found. He was, at length, discovered
by The Assiniboine on the other side the Fraser, and
the man was obHged to strip and swim the ice-cold
river to fetch him back. Soon after we started, we
came to Moose River, which was somewhat difficult to
ford, for the water was high and rapid, pouring over
the horses' shoulders in the deepest part. Mr. O'B.
lost nerve and steered badly, his horse lost its footing,
and nearly took a voyage into the Fraser ; the rider,
however, gripped mane and saddle firmly, and both
got ashore together, adding another " hair's-breadth
escape" to Mr. O'B.'s Hst.
We reached Moose Lake before noon, and traveUed
along it until dark without finding any resting-place.
The lake was high, and the sides of its basin
mountains, up to the base of which the waters spread.
It was again a day of marching through water,
and the horses perversely wandered off into the deeps,
and floated about, soaking flour and pemmican.
Accumulations of driftwood barred the passage along
the shore in many places, and we were compeUed to
scale the mountain-sides. Horse after horse roUed
back in the attempt, and we had to cut off their packs
in the water, and carry up the loads on our backs,
to enable the animals to scramble up the steep ascent.
We worked hard in the hope of reaching the end of
the lake before dark, but the sun went down when we
were stiU several miles distant, and we were compeUed
to spend the night in a bare sand-pit, where there was

254 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
not a blade of grass for our hungry and tired animals,
who ranged restlessly to and fro until the morning.
Moose Lake is a fine sheet of water, about fifteen
mUes in length, and not more than three mUes in
breadth at the widest point. The scenery was very
wUd and grand, and forcibly reminded us of Wast
Water. On the south side, the hills rose perpen
dicularly out of the water for perhaps 2,000 feet,
beyond which was the usual background of rocky
and hoary peaks. Over the edge of this mighty
precipice a row of sUver streams poured with unbroken
faU, the smaUer one dissipated in mist and spray ere
they reached the lake below. This beautiful series of
cascades we named the Rockingham FaUs.
Continuing to foUow the Fraser on the monow,
we reached an open space a few mUes beyond the end
of the lake, and stayed there the remainder of the
day. The place was rich in grass and vetches, and
our horses ate greedily after their long fast, whUst we
overhauled our provisions. The flour and pemmican
had been greatly injured by the repeated wettings of
the last few days, but the greater part of it we
rendered avaUable by careful drying in the sun. Our
dessicated vegetables were, however, past redemption,
but we made the best of the misfortune by living
almost entirely upon them for the next few days.
Mr. O'B. was missing for some time after we arrived,
and we learnt from The Assiniboine that he had heard
frequent calls for help coming from " Le Vieux," as he
caUed him, who had, as usual, faUen behind, but he
had utterly disregarded them. In course of time,

THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 255
Mr. O'B. appeared in his shirt sleeves, canying his
coat, blanket, and saddle, and most thoroughly dis
gusted with his horse, which had driven him to the
verge of distraction by its vagaries, and the misfor
tunes into which it led him. He told us he had come
to the conclusion that he should be much happier on
foot, and wished to lend him to us to use as a pack
animal for the rest of the journey.
The descent on the western slope was very rapid and
continual, although nowhere steep, and a change in
the vegetation marked the Pacific side. The cedar,
the sUver pine, and several other varieties now first
appeared, and became more and more frequent. A
species of aralea, a taU prickly trader, many kinds of
rosacese, and new deciduous shrubs, showed strangely
to our eyes. The timber was altogether of a larger
growth, and the huge trunks which baned the path
rendered our progress very laborious. The pack
horses wearied us by breaking away into the forest,
rather than leap over the obstructions in the way,
and from morning to night we were incessantly run
ning after them to drive them back. Then they
rushed about in every direction but the right one,
crashing and tumbhng amongst the timber, and often
involving themselves in most serious embarrassment,
jamming their packs between adjacent trees, trying
to pass under an inclining trunk too low to admit
the saddle, or jumping into coUections of timber
where their legs became hopelessly entangled. On
the afternoon of the 13th we came to a place
where the trad passed along the face of a lofty cliff

256 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
of crumbHng slate. The path was only a few inches
in width, barely affording footing for the horses, and
midway a great rock had shpped down from above,
resting on the nanow ledge by which we had to pass.
This completely barred the way, and the perpendicular
cliffs rendered it impossible for us to evade it by
taking any other route. We therefore cut down a
number of young pine trees, and using them as levers,
set to work to dislodge the obstacle. After an hour's
toU, we succeeded in loosening it from its position,
and with a single bound it roUed down with sullen
plunge into the deep river, far below. We then led
the horses past, one by one, with the greatest caution.
The path was so narrow and dangerous, that we gave
it the name of Mahomet's Bridge.
The scenery, at this point, was very fine; the moun
tains shutting in the vaUey very closely on either
side, and the river below tearing and roaring along
over its rocky bed with great velocity. The cliff just
mentioned was the first slate-rock we met with,
joined with the carboniferous limestone, which indi
cated the approach to the auriferous region. Slate is
the " bed-rock " with which gold is invariably found
associated in the Cariboo mines, and therefore this
first appearance of it, in passing from east to west,
is of considerable interest. Bearing upon this is the
curious fact, that east of the Rocky Mountains gold in
any quantity has only been found, we beheve, in those
streams which rise on the western side of the main
ridge, as in the Peace River, which rises far to the
west, or those which come from the very heart of the
range, as the North Saskatchewan.

robson's PEAK. 257
A few hours' traveUing in the morning of the 14th
brought us to the Grand Fork of the Fraser, where an
important branch from the north or north-east flows
by five separate mouths into the main body of the
Fraser, which we had been foUowing thus far. Here
we puUed up, in order to search carefully for safe fords
by which to cross these numerous swoUen streams.
This Grand Fork of the Fraser is the original Tete
Jaune Cache, so caUed from being the spot chosen by
an Iroquois trapper, known by the sobriquet of the
T&te Jaune, or " Yellow Head," to hide the furs he
obtained on the western side. The situation is grand
and striking beyond description. At the bottom of a
narrow rocky gorge, whose sides were clothed with
dark pines, or, higher still, with Hght green
shrubs, the boiling, impetuous Fraser dashed along.
On every side the snowy heads of mighty hUls
crowded round, whilst, immediately behind us, a giant
among giants, and immeasurably supreme, rose
Robson's Peak. This magnificent mountain is of
conical form, glacier-clothed, and rugged. When we
first caught sight of it, a shroud of, mist partially
enveloped the summit, but this presently rolled away,
and we saw its upper portion dimmed by a necklace
of hght feathery clouds, beyond which its pointed
apex of ice, ghttering in the morning sun, shot up far
into the blue heaven above, to a height of probably
10,000 or 15,000 feet. It was a glorious sight, and
one which the Shushwaps of The Cache assured us had
rarely been seen by human eyes, the summit being
generaUy hidden by clouds. After leaving the old

258 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Cache, we entered upon fresh difficulties — deep streams
to cross, timber to jump every ten yards, and the
whole valley flooded. The horse which carried our
flour took to swimming about in deep water, and one
packed with pemmican wandered into the Fraser, and
was borne down the stream for some distance. How
ever, he managed to find foothold at last under the
bank, and we were able to haul him out with ropes.
The next day, the 15th of July, stiU found us
strugghng through floods, logs, and debris, and was
signahsed by the occurrence of an irremediable mis
fortune. In order to prevent the possible loss or
damage of provisions by the horses disporting them
selves in deep water, we led those which carried flour
and pemmican. Two of the others, however, who
were running loose — a horse most aptly named Gis-
quakarn, or " The Fool," andBucephalus — strayed over
the true river-bank into the stream, and were swept off
in a moment. They soon disappeared from our view,
and the Iroquois and boy went in pursuit, whUst we
foUowed with the rest of the horses. About a mfle
down stream we caught sight of the animals, standing
in a shaUow in the middle of the stream, and as we
came just at this time to one of the rare natural
gardens of the mountains, brilHant with flowers and
rich in strawberries, we camped in the open ground.
We were in full view of the two animals in the river,
and hoped they would be tempted to join their com
panions on shore. Bucephalus began to neigh, and
eventuaUy commenced swimming towards us; but
Gisquakarn, " The Fool," instead of foUowing in the

THE ASSINIBOINE RESCUES BUCEPHALUS.

(Seepage 259.)

THE ASSINIBOINE RESCUES BUCEPHALUS. 259
right direction, steered down mid-stream, and Bucepha
lus, after a moment's hesitation, turned away and fol
lowed him into the fiercest strength of the inesistible
flood. Away both went, far outstripping our utmost
speed in pursuit, their packs only being visible in the
distance, bobbing about like corks in the roUing
waters. The Assiniboine led the chase, and soon left all
the rest of us far behind, for he had a wonderful
faciHty in getting over obstructions, and the way in
which he vanished amidst the closely-set trunks, and
past the barriers of faUen timber, was marveUous.
He did not rush and tear along, but gHded out of
sight, apparently unhindered by the obstacles which
opposed our progress. We struggled on far in the
rear, and occasionaUy caught a ghmpse of the horses
like specks in the distance, stiU borne down the
middle of the torrent. About two mUes below,
another shaUow gave them resting ground for a
moment, and enabled The Assiniboine to come up.
The cunent was so strong, however, that they were
soon swept off again ; but Bucephalus, observing The
Assiniboine, attempted to reach the shore. The place
was a fearful rapid, where the water poured madly in
roUing- billows over immense boulders. As the horse
neared the land for an instant in passing, The Assini
boine leaped in, threw his arms round the animal's
neck, who neighed gratefully when he saw his de
liverer come to the rescue, and the two, mutually
supporting each other, eventuaUy gained the shore.
The escape of The Assiniboine seemed marveUous, and
r 2

260 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND,
we did not faU amply to reward him for the intrepidity
he had displayed. Few men would have dared to
plunge into such a boiUng torrent, and as we looked
at the huge roUing waves after it was over, we could
hardly beHeve it possible that the thing had in reality
occurred. Having unpacked Bucephalus, and spread aU the
soaked baggage out to dry in the sun, we started for
ward again to learn the fate of the other horse Gis-
quakarn, who had obstinately pursued the middle
course — in this case certainly not the safest. After
another mile's run, we descried him under the opposite
bank, where it was too abrupt to chmb, his head
buried in the bushes which fringed the shore, and
hardly able to stand against the rush of water. It
seemed madness to attempt to cross the stream on a
raft in its present swoUen state, and we were reluc
tantly compelled to abandon him to his fate for the
present. The Iroquois started immediately for T6te
Jaune Cache, which he calculated could not be more
than seven or eight miles distant, in order to obtain
the assistance of the Shushwaps there, who possessed
canoes in which the river might be crossed. The rest
of us returned to camp with our injured property, and
employed ourselves in investigating the extent of our
losses. Early the next morning the Iroquois returned
with two young Shushwaps, who crossed the river,
and proceeded to the place where the horse had
been last seen. From the marks on the bank it was
evident that the animal had made frantic but futile
endeavours to cHmb the bank, but had at last rolled

A HEAVY LOSS  SANS TEA AND TOBACCO. 261
back and been carried off, nor did we ever find any
further traces of him.
This misfortune was no light one. We had now
neither tea, salt, nor tobacco, for our whole store of
these luxuries had been carried by the horse which
was lost. AU our clothes, matches, and ammunition
were gone, except what we carried on our persons
at the time. AU our papers, letters of credit, and
valuables, Milton's buffalo robe and blanket, Cheadle's
coUection of plants, the instruments and watches, had
set out on their voyage towards the sea. But there
was much reason for congratulation as weU as lamen
tation. No actual necessaries of Hfe had gone ; we
had stiU the pemmican and flour. The journals,
too, without which the present valuable history
could never have been published, were saved with
Bucephalus. Mr. O'B. lost his letters of introduction, his tin
kettle, and a pair of spectacles; but his Paley, carefully
carried in his breast-pocket, stiU remained to him.
The loss of the spectacles, however, obHged him to
pursue his studies under great disadvantages, for he
was now reduced to reading with one eye only, for the
only pair he had left boasted of but a single glass.
As we sat over the camp fire at night, talking about
our losses, drinking the last of our tea, and smoking
some of the last pipes we were destined to enjoy for
many weeks, Mr. O'B. improved the occasion with a
certain characteristic philosophy. He directed our
attention to the consideration of how much worse the
misfortune would have been if he, or one of us, had

262 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
been riding the animal which was lost. Then the loss
of his kettle was, after aU, of Httle consequence, for the
tea to use in it was gone too. " No," said he, " what
grieves me is the loss of your tobacco ; it's a very
serious thing to me, as weU as you ; for, do you know,
my own was just finished, and I was on the very point
of asking you to lend me some tiU we get through."
MUton being the only man who had any tobacco left,
some four smaU plugs, smUingly took the hint, and
shared it with the rest of the party.
On the foUowing day we moved on towards The
Cache with the Iroquois and Shushwaps, whUst The
Assiniboine and his son searched the river closely for
traces of the lost horse or baggage. As we were fol
lowing along the track with the train of horses, in
single file, Cheadle, who was driving some of the rear
most pack-horses, heard loud cries behind — "Doctor,
Doctor ! Stop, stop !" and was presently overtaken by
Mr. O'B., who came up out of breath, gasping out,
"Doctor, Doctor ! you had better go back directly, some
thing's happened ; don't you hear some one shouting
for assistance ? I expect it is Mrs. Assiniboine with
one of the horses fast in a bog." Anathematising
Mr. O'B. for not having himself gone back to help her,
and receiving in reply a tribute to the greater value of
his own aid, Cheadle ran hastily back a few hundred
yards, and there came upon the woman, endeavouring
perseveringly, but vainly, to extricate a horse, which
was almost buried in a morass, by first beating him
vigorously, and then hauling at his taU. By cutting
off the packs, and one hauHng at the head and the

MR. o'B. AND MRS. ASSINIBOINE. 263
other the tail, the horse was at last got out, and then
Mrs. Assiniboine relieved her feehngs by a torrent of
violent language in the Cree tongue, eminently abusive
of Mr. O'B., Avho she declared was close behind her
when the accident happened, but instead of coming
to her, took to his heels and bolted, afraid lest he
should be left behind with only a female protector !*
She was very indignant, and declared she would never
lift a finger to help him in anything for the future ;
and from that time neither the man, his wife, or son
could ever be induced to obHge " Le Vieux " in the
smallest matter, and were quite unable to understand
the considerations of humanity which prevented us
at once from abandoning Mr. O'B. to his fate — far the
wisest course, they assured us, to take with so timid
and useless a member of the party.
In the evening we arrived at The Cache, and saw
the bark slants of the Shushwaps on the opposite side
of the river; but waited tiU next morning before
attempting to cross.

CHAPTER XIV.
Tete Jaune Cache— Nature of the Country— Wonderful View— West
of the Rocky Mountains, Rocky Mountains still — The " Poire,"
or Service Berry— The Shushwaps of The Cache— The Three
Miners — Gain but httle Information about the Road — The Iro
quois returns to Jasper House — Loss of Mr. O'B.'s Horse — Leave
The Cache— The Watersheds — Canoe River — Perilous Adventure
with a Raft — Milton and the Woman — Extraordinary Behaviour
of Mr. O'B.— The Rescue— The Watershed of the Thompson—
Changesby Beaver — Mount Milton — Enormous Timber — Cross the
River — Fork of the North Thompson — A Dilemma, — No Road to
be Found — Cross the North-west Branch — Mr. O'B.'s presenti
ment of Evil — Lose the Trail again — Which Way shall we Turn ?
Resolve to try and reach Kamloops — A Natural Bridge — We
become Beasts of Burden — Mr. O'B. objects, but is overruled by
The Assiniboine — " A hard Road to Travel" — Miseries of driving
Pack-horses — An Unwelcome Discovery — The Trail Ends —
Lost in the Forest — Our Disheartening Condition — Council of
War — Explorations of The Assiniboine, and his Report — A Feast
on Bear's Meat — How we had a Smoke, and were encouraged by
The Assiniboine.
We reached Tete Jaune Cache on the 17th of July,
and on the morning of the 18th were ferried across
the Fraser by the Indians. The water roUed over the
bed of boulders at a great pace, swelling into large
waves, on which the light dug-out of the Shushwaps
tossed like a nutsheU. Mr. O'B., at our suggestion,
lay on his back at fuU length at the bottom of the
canoe, for we were reaUy afraid he might upset such a
very frail craft. When we reached the middle of the
stream, we saw his head suddenly rise up, and his
hands making frantic endeavours to loosen his cravat

TETE JAUNE CACHE. 265
and shirt coUar. When we cross-examined him after
he had safely landed, it appeared that he suffered great
anxiety when rocking about on the waves, expecting
to be swamped, and had a misty idea that he could
swim ashore with greater ease without a necktie.
A few mUes below Tete Jaune Cache the Fraser,
after running almost due west from Moose Lake, re
ceives a tributary from the south-east, then suddenly
turns almost due north; and, according to Indian
report, is joined a Httle lower down by an important
branch from the north-east. The Cache is situated in
a valley of triangular form, with the apex to the south,
and enclosed by lofty mountains. The vaUey is some
fifteen mUes in length, and not more than five in
width at the broadest part. Across the base runs
the Fraser, from east to west, turning north, when it
meets the range of hills which forms the western side.
The commencement of a bold range of mountains,
running nearly north and south, and dividing the
watershed of the Columbia from that of the Thomp
son, closes up the point of the vaUey. The main
chain of the Rocky Mountains forms the eastern
boundary. Part of the vaUey of The Cache appears
to be rich ; but immediately to the south is a stretch
of sandy, undulating country, partially covered by
smaU spruce, and terminated by the range of hiUs
mentioned as dividing the watersheds. Then com
mence the dense forests of the North Thompson.
The view from The Cache looking westward is,
we imagine, one of the most wonderful in the world.
Away as far as the eye can reach, north, south, and

266 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
west, are mountains packed behind mountains, sepa
rated only by the narrowest vaUeys, most of them snow-
clad, and apparently stretching away to the Pacific.
Although we had crossed the main chain of the
Rocky Mountains, and were now in British Columbia,
we were surprised to find we were stiU reaUy in the
midst of Rocky Mountains. For, in truth, the moun
tains which rise like a waU from the prairies of the
eastern side extend to the western ocean. The exact
reverse of this view may be seen from the Bald
Mountain in Cariboo, and we were assured by Mr.
Fraser, of Victoria, who had visited both the Andes
and Himalayas, that nothing there could compare
with these hundreds of mUes of mountains in British
Columbia. As there was very good pasturage for the horses,
we resolved to rest a day here, in order to thoroughly
overhaul our provisions, after their recent wettings,
and obtain what information we could from the Shush
waps concerning our future course. The Indians
brought in a plentiful supply of the poire, wUd pear,
or service beny, which we purchased for some needles
and thread. This fruit grows on a shrub, two or three
feet in height, with .leaves resembHng that of a pear-
tree, but smaUer, and it is said by the Hudson's
Bay people that wherever it flourishes wheat
wUl also grow to perfection. The berry is about
the size of a black currant, pear-shaped, and of deh
cious sweetness and flavour. They are much used
by the Indians on both sides the mountains, who dry
them for winter use. From these Indians also MUton,

THE SHUSHWAPS OF THE CACHE. 267
who had lost his buffalo robe by the recent misfortune,
obtained a couple of marmot robes wherewith to cover
himself at night, some large cubes of Hon pyrites
used instead of flints, and two curious stone pipes,
which they wUHngly parted with, being as destitute of
tobacco as ourselves. From them we learnt that there
were but two families of them at this place, and the two
old men of the society had three days before started in
their canoes down the Fraser, to convey the miners,
mentioned as having crossed the mountains just before
us, to Fort George. These men had anived in very
destitute condition nine days before, without any
clothing but their shirts, and having lived for a long
time on partridges and squirrels. The Shushwaps could
give us no information about the party of emigrants
who had sought the Thompson valley the summer
before. Whether they intended to strike direct for
Cariboo or foUow the river down to Kamloops, we
could not ascertain. They told us that it was but six
days' journey on foot to the gold country — probably
meaning Cariboo — or not more than eighty or a hundred
miles, but that the country was very difficult. An
old squaw, a native of Kamloops, who had left there
as a girl to become the wife of a Rocky Mountain
Shushwap, assured us that we could reach that fort in
eight days, and traced a rude map of the route for us.
The correctness and value of her information wiU be
appreciated from the sequel.
On the 19th we prepared to start, but heavy rain
coming on, we remained until the foUowing day.
With the exception of two thunder-storms, the weather

268 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
had been uniformly bright and warm since we left
Edmonton, seven weeks before. The next morning
proving fine, the Iroquois set out on his return to
Jasper House, and we shortly after went in search of
our horses, to prepare for the commencement of our
journey forward to Cariboo. But we were delayed for
several hours searching for Mr. O'B.'s horse, which
was nowhere to be found. The Assiniboine evidently
chuckled over the loss, although he declared he could
not for the life of him imagine what had become of
the horse. Mr. O'B. was indignant, and vituperated
the Iroquois and Assiniboine, but did not attempt to
assist in the search ; and we abandoned it at length
with the conviction that the Iroquois was the thief,
and it was useless to pursue him.
One of the young Shushwaps agreed to accompany
us for a day's journey, in order to show us the emi
grants' trail, and we determined to foUow it as far as
practicable, hoping to reach Cariboo in the end. The
track led us through an easy country, sandy and un
dulating, and lightly timbered with smaU spruce. We
crossed a small tributary of the Fraser, skirted the
shores of a smaU lake, and by evening had impercep
tibly passed the height of land between the watershed
of the Fraser and that of the Columbia. The Shush
wap stayed the night with us, put us on the traU of
the emigrants the next morning, and then returned.
We said good-bye, little knowing the long and weary
time we should pass before we again saw the face of man.
The track here bore to the right, to enter the most
westerly of the two narrow valleys, into which that of

MR. O B. AT CANOE RIVER. 269
The Cache is divided by the line of hiUs to the
south, marked Malton Range in the map. A mile
or so brought us to Canoe River, a tributary of
the Columbia, running towards the south-east. The
stream has worn a deep channel in the sandy ground,
and we descended a steep cliff to gain the valley of the
river, which we cut nearly at right angles. The waters
were at high flood, and the current very strong ; the
banks were beset with driftwood and overhanging
trees, and we moved some way up the stream in search
of a place where it would be possible to raft across.
We found a smaU open space at last, near which stood
some dead pines, and where the opposite bank was for a
short distance more free than usual from fallen trunks,
rocks, and brushwood. We then drove the horses
across, and commenced cutting down wood for the
raft. By the loss of the two axes previously we were
now reduced to one smaU one, and had to work hard
in relays until afternoon before we had feUed enough
timber for our purpose. Then came the task of carry
ing it down to the edge of the river, and Mr. O'B.'s
services were called into requisition amongst the rest.
We arranged that on the present occasion he should
be put in for some reaUy hard work, as Cheadle's
partner. The sight was a most ludicrous one : Mr.
O'B. staggering along under one end of a heavy log,
with loud cries and fearful groans, trying to stop,
but driven forward by the merciless Cheadle, who
could hardly carry his load for laughter at the excla
mations and contortions of his companion. Mr. O'B.
sat down after delivering his load, and vowed he was

270 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
utterly inqapable of any further exertion, but Cheadle
induced him to make another attempt, and managed
to find a tree as heavy as the first. Mr. O'B. entreated,
groaned, begged for mercy, and implored Cheadle to
stop for a moment, only one moment ; but he was
obHged to push on to the end, where he sat down,
declaring he was regularly broken down. Yet he was
not too exhausted to talk and complain very loudly.
Finding, however, that too much time was lost by
keeping him at hard labour, we detaUed him to
carry the Hght poles for the cross pieces of the raft.
When aU the wood was brought down, the logs were
securely lashed together, and we prepared to cross.
The stream was so strong that it was with great
difficulty aU got on board, and the raft had drifted
some distance before we fairly got to work with
the poles we aU carried. Away we went down
stream at a fearful pace. At first it appeared certain
that we must run foul of some rocks, and a tree over
hanging the bank on the side we started from. Very
vigorous pohng, urged on by the frantic shouts and
anathemas of The Assiniboine, barely saved us from
this danger. In avoiding ScyUa, however, we feU
into Charybdis, for the current, setting in strongly at
this place toward the opposite side, almost before we
were aware, or could make any effort to prevent it,
carried us across into a bUlowy rapid. Over this we
passed Hke an arrow, and were helplessly borne
straight to what seemed certain destruction, a large
pine-tree, through the lower branches of which the
water rushed Hke the stream from a mUl-wheel.

PERILOUS ADVENTURE WITH A RAFT. 271
" A tene — a, terre avec la Hne !" shouted The Assini
boine, as we neared the bank for an instant, and making
a desperate leap into the water caught the bushes,
scrambled up the side, and whipped his rope round a
tree. Cheadle jumped at the same moment with the
other rope, and did Hkewise; but the cords, rotten from
¦repeated wettings, snapped like threads, the raft was
sucked under the tree, and disappeared beneath the
water. MUton and the woman were brushed off Hke
flies by the branches, but Mr. O'B., in some incompre
hensible manner, managed to stick to the raft, and re
appeared above water further down, sitting sUent and
motionless, saUing along to swift destruction with
seeming resignation. The Assiniboine and the boy
— who had leaped ashore with his father — rushed
along the bank in pursuit. Cheadle, however, who
was foUowing, with a confused notion that every
body was drowned but himself, heard a cry pro
ceeding from the tree, and looking in that direction,
observed Milton chnging to the branches, his body
sucked under the trunk, and his head disappearing
. under water and rising again with the varying rush of
the current. The woman was in similar position, but
further out and on the lower side. Both were in im
minent danger of being swept off every moment, and
Cheadle, shouting to them for God's sake to hold on,
clambered along the tree and laid hold of MUton, who
was nearest. He cried out to help the woman first,
but Cheadle, seeing the woman was more difficult to
reach, and MUton in the greater danger, helped him
out at once.

272 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
We then crawled carefully forwards to the rescue
of the woman. She was, however, so far below, that
it was impossible to Hft her out, and we therefore
held her as weU as we could, and shouted to The
Assiniboine to be quick with a rope.
He, in the meantime, had caught up the raft in
its swift career, and cried loudly to Mr. O'B., who sat
motionless in the stern, to throw the end of the
broken rope. Mr. O'B. responded only by a gentle
shaking of the head, and a " No, no ; no, thank you,"
looking solemnly straight before him. The raft,
however, bringing up for a moment against another
overhanging tree, was arrested by The Assiniboine.
Mr. O'B. instantly seized the opportunity of escape,
darted on shore, and buried himself in the woods,
regardless of the entreaties of his deHverer, to help in
securing the raft.
After we had shouted some time, The Assiniboine
seemed to understand us, and hastened to unfasten a
rope. But this took time, and we began to fear we
should not be able to keep the woman up until he
came. Presently Mr. O'B. appeared on the bank,
gazing at us in a bewildered manner. We cried to
him to run down to The Assiniboine and teU him
to bring a rope quickly ; but he did not seem to
comprehend, and untying his neckerchief, held
that out to us. The boy, coming up at the
moment, brought it to the tree, and with that and
MUton's belt, passed round the woman's waist, he
kept her above the water until her husband arrived
with a rope, — and Mrs. Assiniboine was saved. She

MR. O B. SUFFERS FROM NERVOUSNESS. 273
was, however, benumbed and nearly insensible, but
graduaUy recovered with warmth and a draught of
rum, which Cheadle had fortunately reserved for
emergencies, in his flask. We had great difficulty
in getting a fire, for the tinder was wet, and we had
lost our matches previously in the Fraser ; but we
succeeded at last, dried our things, and investigated our
losses. Strange to say, the guns and powder-horns
had not been swept off, and the provisions were safe;
but the packs which contained the whole property of
the man and his famUy were gone.
In talking over the adventure afterwards, Mr.
O'B. assured us that he had not the shghtest recoUec-
tion of anything which occurred after the raft sank
under the tree, until he found himself safe on shore.
Before we had rested very long, Mr. O'B. caUed
Cheadle aside, and requested him, as a special favour,
to induce MUton to agree to move on for a few mUes.
" For," said he, " you see, Doctor, I'm rather nervous.
I've had a terrible shock to-day — a terrible shock !
' Mihi frigidus horror membra quatit.' I'm trembling
with the recoUection of it now. Ah ! Doctor, Doctor,
you don't know what I suffered. The sound of this
dreadful water in my ears is more than I can bear.
I want to know whether you think there wiU be any
more rivers to cross. But please move on a few
mUes, please do, there's a good feUow, just to obhge
me, out of hearing of this tenible noise. ' Heu me
miserum! iterum iterumque, strepitum fluminum audio!"
We agreed, and went forward a nule or two to better
feeding for the horses, and there camped for the night.

274 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
On the following day we made a long detour to the
right, to get round the range of hiUs to the south, and
entered the nanow vaUey on the west of it. The trail
was not very distinct, and passed amongst rocks and
burnt timber. At dinner-time we discovered that the
frying-pan and some of the tin plates were lost, and
thenceforward were driven to cook our pemmican and
bake our bread in the kettle. A smaU stream flowed
along the bottom of the ravine towards the north,
faUing probably into either the Fraser or Canoe River ;
but the next day we passed the height of land, and
gained the watershed of the Thompson. This was
occupied by a smaU marshy lake, marked Albreda
Lake in the map, fiUing the bottom of the ravine. It
appeared to have been drained formerly by a stream
flowing from either extremity, like the Summit lake
between Lake Lilloet and Anderson Lake, in British
Columbia; but the northern end was now blocked
up by an old grass-grown beaver-dam, and its waters
escaped only towards the south. We continued to
follow the stream thus formed, which was reinforced
by several branches from the westward, and saw before
us a magnificent mountain, covered with glaciers, and
apparently blocking up the vaUey before us. To this
Cheadle gave the name of Mount MUton. The traU
now entered thick pine forest, where the timber was
of enormous size. Two trunks of the giant cypress
[Tlmja gigantea) or cedar, as it is commonly caUed,
which grew side by side, measured, one, over, six and a
half embraces, or thirty-nine feet ; the other, five
embraces, or thirty feet in circumference, giving

VIEW ON THE NORTH THOMPSON, LOOKTNG EASTWARD.

NORTH-WEST BRANCH OF THE THOMPSON. 275
diameters of thirteen feet and ten feet. Pines, of
almost equal girth, towered up to a height of over
300 feet. There was no open ground, and the horses
fed on twigs and mare's-taU ; the road was hilly,
swamps occupying the hollows.
On the fifth day after leaving The Cache we crossed
to the western bank of the river we were following,
and which we concluded to be a branch of the
Thompson. This had now become about thirty yards
in width, and so deep that we were compeUed to carry
the horses' packs on our shoulders as we rode across,
to prevent their being soaked. After crossing two
smaller streams from the west, we came to a deep arm
of the river, with banks of soft mud, which we crossed,
after long delay, by leading the horses over an old
beaver-dam. We were stiU in the midst of snowy
mountains, and steep pine-clad hiUs closely shut in the
vaUey on either side.
On the 25th July, the sixth day after leaving The
Cache, having passed Mount MUton to the right, we
were anested by a large river flowing from the
north-west, which here joined the one which we
had foUowed from the north. This river was some
sixty yards in width, and bank-full with glacier-
water. At the angle formed by the junction of the
two rivers we camped, in order to search for the
emigrants' traU forward. We found one of their
camps here, and more wood cut down than needed for
fires, leading us to suppose that they had made a raft,
and crossed to one bank or other of the main river
below the fork. We had expected that they would
s 2

276 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
have turned up the north-west branch without cross
ing it, striking direct for Cariboo. But we could not
find any trail in that direction, and The Assiniboine
having failed to discover any traces of one on the
eastern bank of the main river, to which he crossed
on a tiny raft, we concluded that they must have gone
to its western shore, and began to prepare to cross
thither ourselves.
On a tree we found an inscription to the effect that
Andre Cardinal, the guide, left the emigrants here to
return to Edmonton. This, then, was the place from
which, as he informed us, he had shown the emigrants
the hUls of Cariboo in the distance. This circumstance,
and the statement of the old woman at The Cache, that
the journey either to Cariboo or Kamloops would take
us about eight days, put us quite at our ease, although
we had now but a very smaU quantity of provisions
left. We felt the want of tea very much, far more
than the loss of salt or vegetables, or indeed any
other luxury. Abstinence from aU alcohohc stimu
lant we had endured for above a year without the
sHghtest discomfort, but the craving for tea and
tobacco never left us. We had eked out our Httle
stock of the latter hitherto by mixing it with what the
Indians caU " kinnikinnick," the inner bark of the
dog wood. We had only enough for three or four
pipes left amongst us now, and we reserved them
for special need.
We fully expected to reach our destination in the
course of a few days, and set to work to prepare our
•aft with great confidence. This occupied the whole

MR. O'B.'s PRESENTIMENT. . 277
of the 26th, for we determined to use very large
timber, for greater safety. We worked away in relays,
and between the speUs of labour washed for gold, but
did not succeed in finding any traces of it. The sand
at the side and in the bed of the river was full of in
numerable particles of shining talc, which ghstened
very brightly in the sun, and The Assiniboine, beheving
it to be gold, drew our attention to it as an encouraging
sign that we were approaching our destination. The
waters rose during the day, and were a foot higher by
evening, sinking to their former level during the night :
the alternate effect of the sun and night frosts on the
mountain snows. The weather was bright and op
pressively hot, and the mosquitoes and tiny sand-flies
so numerous that we could obtain Httle sleep. By
evening we had aU the timber cut and carried down to
the water's edge ready to tie together.
On the morning of the 27th, Mr. O'B., one of
whose good quaUties was early rising, surpassed himself
— whether in consequence of being disturbed by mos
quitoes, or from anxiety for the public good, remains
uncertain — and turned out with the earliest peep of
dawn. Rousing Cheadle, with the request that he
would get up immediately, as he had something of
importance to communicate, he took him aside and
said, " In the first place, Doctor, I hope that you and
Assiniboine wUl be very careful indeed in crossing the
river, for you know I think you managed very badly
indeed last time, I may say disgracefully so. It was
a mercy we were not aU drowned; look what an
escape / had ! Now, if you wUl take my advice,

278 • THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
you wiU keep perfectly cool and coUected — animosus
et fortis appare — but aequo animo, you know; not
shout at one another as you did before; Assini
boine quite frightened me with his strong language.
But I have a very particular favour to ask, and
that'is, that you and Lord Milton wUl agree to post
pone crossing the river until to-monow, for I am op
pressed with a most fearful presentiment that if we
make the attempt to-day we shaU aU be lost — every
one of us drowned, Doctor. Think of the responsi
bility, before it is too late ; you and his lordship are
answerable for our lives."
Cheadle explained that provisions were getting so
short, we could not afford to waste a day, and the
presentiment of evil was merely uneasiness arising
from the recoUection of the late accident, which was
not Hkely to be repeated. Mr. O'B., however, shook
his head solemnly, unconvinced, gave us a quotation
about Cassandra, and embarked with most woful
misgivings. We crossed without mishap, and the
moment we neared the side, Mr. O'B., eager to get
safe on shore, jumped overboard into shaUow water,
but was immediately coUared and pulled back by The
Assiniboine, and obHged to wait tUl the raft was secured.
Mr. O'B.'s presentiment was, happUy,- unfulfilled.
When we proceeded to search for the trail, we dis
covered, to our dismay, that we were upon a smaU
island, instead of the west bank of the river, as we
supposed. The north-west branch entered the main
river by two mouths, and we were upon the spit of
land between the fork of these channels. There were

A NATURAL BRIDGE. 279
numerous traces of the emigrants' visit, but what line
they had taken we could not make out, although we
searched diligently tUl night came on. Next morn
ing The Assiniboine was up betimes, and crossing
the west channel by a natural bridge, formed by the
accumulation of driftwood against a sand-bar, soon
discovered the trail leading up the north-west branch
in the direction of Cariboo. He foUowed this for about
a mile, when it came suddenly to an end. The ravine
was narrow, the sides steep and heavily timbered,
and lofty, limestone mountains loomed up ahead.
The emigrants had evidently found the work of
cutting a road to Cariboo so arduous that they had
abandoned the task, and turned their faces southward
to seek Kamloops ; and agreeably to this surmise The
Assiniboine discovered another traU leading down the
river in that direction. The time had now come when
we must make our final decision whether to try and
reach Cariboo or foUow the trail towards Kamloops.
We held a councU, and after much discussion at last
agreed that it would be impossible, with our weakened
forces, worn-out horses, short supphes, and Httle axe,
to cut our way through the almost impenetrable
country to the west. It was with a feeling of bitter
disappointment that we gave up our cherished idea of
finding a road direct to the gold-fields, but the attempt
would have been madness, and we very sulkUy com
menced transferring the packs to the mainland on the
west. The. drift-wood bridge saved us from the labour
of making another raft, but carrying the baggage on
our backs proved no Hght work. The footing on the

280 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
trunks, pUed together so irregularly, was slippery and
uncertain, and the flood poured fiercely through the
weir, making our heads giddy with the rush of waters
and their deafening roar. When we had crossed this,
which was at least forty yards in width, we were obHged
to scramble with our loads as we could up a perpen
dicular hill-side, through pUes of faUen timber, in order
to reach the track. Mr. O'B. stole across quietly, with
out troubling himself with even his own baggage, and
then sat down and took out his Paley — his pipe, alas !
was useless now — declaring he was sony he had
omitted to bring his property, but that he would not
cross such a dangerous place again for the world : his
head would not stand it. He was afraid he should
become giddy and faU over, and therefore begged that
we would let him rest in peace. We left him there,
ourselves re-crossing for other loads; but as we re
turned with them we were astonished to meet Mr.
O'B. scrambling over the logs with the most astound
ing agUity. The Assiniboine having discovered him
sitting idle, advanced towards him with so menacing
an air that he fled across the bridge with great celerity,
and took his share of work without complaint. Mr.
O'B. firmly beHeved that The Assiniboine intended to
murder him on the first convenient opportunity, and
viewed any offensive demonstration on his part with
unqualified terror. When we had taken the baggage
across, we proceeded to drive the horses into the
stream below the dam. They swam to a shaUow in
the middle, and there remained. The day was ex
ceedingly sultry, and they enjoyed the coolness of the

THE TRAIL COMES TO AN END. 281
water, and the comparative freedom from gadflies and
mosquitoes. For above an hour they refused to move,
in spite of aU we could do. We shied showers of
sticks and stones at them, shouted and stormed at
Bucephalus, the " Grand Rouge," the " Petit Rouge "
—then tried the " Gris," the " Sauvage," the " Petit
Noir;" — aU were of one mind. They had found a
cool and pleasant place, where were neither packs nor
hurtful rocks and trees. Blows they were tolerably
safe from, and angry words they regarded not. At
last the boy, by some weU-directed missiles from
the drift-wood bridge, rendered the place loo hot for
them, and they abandoned the position, swimming
across as we desired.
The rest of the day was fruitful in difficulties and
mishaps. The traU had been made by the Canadians
when the river was low, and was now frequently lost
in deep water. At these points we were obliged to cut
a new Hne for ourselves, along steep, timber-strewn
hill-sides. The forest was as dense as ever, and the
trees of the largest. " Muskegs" occupied the hoUows
between the pine-clad hUls, which ran up at short
intervals with steep front towards the river. The
horses mired and were dragged out — walked into the
river, and were hauled back — entangled themselves in
faUen timber, and were chopped out: — or hid them
selves in the thick wood, and had to be sought. At
night The Assiniboine was fairly done, and aU of us
thoroughly tired out.
We met with simUar country and the same diffi
culties until the afternoon of the second day after

282 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
leaving the island, when we came upon two camps,
where were strewn pack-saddles and harness, and great
cedars cut down on every side, with heaps of chips
and spHnters, showing that they had been used to
make rafts and canoes. An inscription in pencU on
a tree told us this was the emigrants' "Slaughter
Camp." We searched in every direction, but no trad
forward could be discovered.
The truth, serious enough, now plainly forced
itself upon our minds, that the whole band of emi
grants had given up in despair the idea of cutting
their way through forests so dense and encumbered,
abandoned their horses, kiUed their oxen for provi
sions, and made large rafts in order to drop down the
river to Kamloops.
We were in a very disheartening position. Before
crossing the Fraser a fortnight before we had lost
nearly everything we possessed. Our provisions were
now reduced to about ten pounds of pemmican, and
the same of flour, or not three days' rations for the six
persons. Game of aU kinds— as is always the case in
vast forests — was exceedingly scarce, and if it had
been plentiful, we could have kiUed but Httle with
the few charges of powder we had left. Our clothes
were afready in rags, and we were obliged to patch
our moccasins with pieces of the saddle-bags. The
horses were weak and in wretched condition, having
had little proper pasture since leaving Edmonton
two months before, and for the last fortnight had
subsisted upon leaves and twigs, with an occasional
mouthful of marsh grass, or equisetum.

COUNCIL OF WAR. 283
We had only one smaU Indian axe with which
to cut our way through the encumbered forest
which surrounded us, and we knew not how long
or difficult the journey before us might be. The
Canadians — a party of fifty or sixty strong, aU able-
bodied men provided with good axes, and expert in
the use of them — had, after a few days' trial, failed
to make any satisfactory progress through the
obstructions which beset them, and had evaded the
difficulty by braving the dangers of an unknown river
fuU of rocks and rapids. We were a weak party,
our mainstay, The Assiniboine, having but one hand.
Even along the partiaUy cleared traU we had foUowed
thus far, the work of making it passable had been
very heavy, and our progress slow and laborious.
We had been delayed and harassed every day by
the horses miring in muskegs, entangling them
selves amongst faUen timber, rolling down hills, or
being lost in the thick woods. The attempt to force
our way through the forest, therefore, seemed almost
a desperate one. On the other hand, to make a
proper raft with our smaU means and strength would
occupy many days, and necessitate the abandonment
of the horses, our last resource for food. In an
ordinarUy tranquil stream our weak and motley
company was utterly incompetent to manage that
most unmanageable of aU transports, a large raft.
In a stream swoUen, rocky, and rapid as the
Thompson, the experiment was certain to prove
disastrous. We had been solemnly and earnestly
warned by the Shushwaps of The Cache against such

284 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
an attempt, as they said the river was impracticable
for a raft, and very hazardous even for canoes.
Cheadle went out and explored the country for some
distance ahead, but returned with the unwelcome
report that it seemed perfectly impossible for horses
to get through such a coUection of faUen timber, and
along such precipitous hiU-sides as he had encoun
tered. Every one looked very serious at this an
nouncement, and Mr. O'B. expressed his opinion that
we must make up our minds to meet a miserable end.
In the evening we held grave councU over our camp-
fire, trying to increase phUosophy by smoking kinni-
kinnick, and, after careful dehberation, decided that
The Assiniboine should investigate the country on the
morrow, and if he thought it practicable, we would
endeavour to cut our way through the forest. We
calculated that Kamloops could not be more than
120 or 130 mUes distant, and we should probably
enter upon more open country before long. It rained
heavily during the night, and until nearly noon the
next day, when The Assiniboine started on his voyage
of discovery. Soon after his departure we heard
a shot, and the barking of the dog PapUlon, from
which we inferred that he had found game of some
kind, and as we had seen tracks of Cariboo deer, we
hoped that he might have met with one of these
animals. In the evening we were deHghted by
his appearance, carrying a smaU black bear on his
shoulders, and reporting that he thought it possible
to get through, although our advance would neces
sarily be very slow and laborious. From the summit

HOW WE HAD A FEAST AND SMOKE. 285
of the hill at the foot of which we were encamped,
he had seen, far to the south, mountains crowded
behind mountains, the everlasting pine-forest extend
ing in every direction, without a sign of open country;
the only favourable circumstance which he observed
being that the hUls appeared to become lower,
and fewer of them were capped with snow. We
aU set eagerly to work to skin and cut up the bear,
and had a great feast that night. This was the first
fresh meat we had tasted since the mountain sheep at
Jasper House, and we found it a great treat, although
we had neither bread nor salt to eat with it, tea to
drink with it, nor tobacco to smoke after it. We
invented a substitute for the latter on this occasion
by mixing the oU out of our pipes with the kinni-
kinnick we smoked, but this was soon finished, and
we were reduced to the smaU comfort to be derived
from the simple wiUow-bark. We aU felt happier
after the meal, and The Assiniboine exhorted us to be
of good courage, for we had now a week's provisions
by using economy : " Nous aniverons bientot."

CHAPTER XV.
We commence to Cut our Way — The Pathless Primeval Forest — The
Order of March — Trouble with our Horses ; their Perversity —
Continual Disasters — Our Daily Fare — Mount Cheadle — Country.
Improves only in Appearance^ — Futile Attempt to Escape out of
the Valley— A Glimpse of Daylight— Wild Fruits— Mr. O'B.
triumphantly Crosses the River — The Assiniboine Disabled —
New Arrangements — Hopes of Finding Prairie-Land — Disappoint
ment — Forest and Mountain Everywhere — False Hopes again —
Provisions at an End — Council of War — Assiniboine Hunts with
out Success — The Headless Indian — " Le Petit Noir" Condemned
and Executed — Feast on Horseflesh — Leave Black Horse Camp —
Forest again — The Assiniboine becomes Disheartened — The
Grand Rapid — A Dead Lock — Famishing Horses — The Barrier —
Shall we get Past? — Mr. O'B. and Bucephalus — Extraordinary
Escape of the Latter — More Accidents — La Porte d'Enfer — Step
by Step — The Assiniboine Downcast and Disabled — Mrs. Assini
boine takes his Place — The Provisions come to an End again — A
Dreary Beaver Swamp — The Assiniboine gives up in Despair —
Mr. O'B. begins to Doubt, discards Paley, and prepares to become
Insane — We kill another Horse— A Bird of Good Omen — The
Crow speaks Truth — Fresher Sign — A Trail — The Road rapidly
Improves — Out of the Forest at last !
On the 31st of July we left Slaughter Camp in a
pouring rain, and plunged into the pathless forest
before us. We were at once brought up by the steep face
of a hill which came down close to the water's edge.
But the steepness of the path was not the greatest
difficulty. No one who has not seen a primeval forest,
where trees of gigantic size have grown and fallen
undisturbed for ages, can form any idea of the coUec-

THE PATHLESS PRIMEVAL FOREST. 287
tion of timber, or the impenetrable character of such
a region. There were pines and thujas of every size,
the patriarch of 300 feet in height standing alone, or
thickly clustermg groups of young ones struggHng
for the vacant place of some prostrate giant. The
faUen trees lay pUed around, forming barriers often
six or eight feet high on every side : trunks of huge
cedars, moss-grown and decayed, lay half-buried in the
ground on which others as mighty had recently fallen ;
trees stUl green and Hving, recently blown down,
blocking the view with the waUs of earth held in their
matted roots; living trunks, dead trunks, rotten
trunks ; dry, barkless trunks, and trunks moist and
green with moss ; bare trunks and trunks with
branches — prostrate, recHning, horizontal, propped up
at different angles ; timber of every size, in every stage
of growth and decay, in every possible position,
entangled in every possible combination. The swampy
ground was densely covered with American dogwood,
and elsewhere with thickets of the aralea, a tough-
stemmed trader, with leaves as large as those of the
rhubarb plant, and growing in many places as high
as our shoulders. Both stem and leaves are covered
with sharp spines, which pierced our clothes as we
forced our way through the tangled growth, and made
the legs and hands of the pioneers scarlet from the
inflammation of myriads of punctures.
The Assiniboine went first with the axe, his wife
went after him leading a horse, and the rest of the
party foUowed, driving two or three horses apiece in
single file. Mr. O'B. had by this time been trained

288 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
to take charge of one pack-animal, which he managed
very weU under favourable conditions. But although
it had been hard enough to keep our caravan in order
when there was a track to foUow, it was ten times
more difficult and troublesome now. As long as each
horse could see the one in front of him, he foUowed
with tolerable fideHty ; but whenever any Httle delay
occurred, and the leading horses disappeared amongst
the trees and underwood, the rest turned aside in
different directions. Then foUowed a rush and
scramble after them, our efforts to bring them back
often only causing them to plunge into a bog or
entangle themselves amongst pUes of logs. When
involved in any predicament of this kind, the mise
rable animals remained stupidly passive, for they had
become so spiritless and worn out, and so injured
about the legs by falling amongst the timber and
rocks, that they would make no effort to help them
selves, except under the stimulus of repeated blows.
These accidents occurring a dozen times a day, caused
the labour to faU very heavUy ; for we were so short-
handed, that each man could obtain Httle assistance
from the rest, and was obHged to get out of his diffi
culties as weU as he could, unaided. When this was
accompHshed, often only to be effected by cutting
off the packs, most of the party had gone Tie knew not
whither, and the other horses in his charge had dis
appeared. These had to be sought up, and a careful
cast made to regain the faint trail left by the party in
advance. Another similar misfortune would often occur
before he joined his companions, and the same exer-

OUR DAILY FARE. 289
tions again be necessary. The work was vexatious
and wearisome in the extreme, and we found our
stock of philosophy quite unequal to the occasion.
With a view of economising our provisions and
making more rapid progress, we reduced our meals to
breakfast and supper, resting only a short time at
mid-day to aUow the horses to feed, but not un
packing them. Our fare was what the half-breeds call
" rubaboo," which we made by boiUng a piece of pem
mican the size of one's fist in a large quantity of water
thickened with a single handful of flour. The latter
commodity had now become very valuable, and was
used in this way only, three or four pounds being aU we
had left. OccasionaUy we were lucky enough to kiU a
partridge or skunk, and this formed a welcome addi
tion to the " rubaboo." The mess was equaUy divided,
and two ordinary platesful formed the portion of
each individual. Under these trying circumstances
we had the advantage of Mr. O'B.'s advice, which he
did not faU to offer at every opportunity. When we
stopped for the night, and the work of unloading the
horses and preparing camp was over, he would emerge
from some quiet retreat, fresh from the solace of
Paley, and deliver his opinions on the prospects of the
journey and his views on the course to be pursued.
" Now, my lord ; now, Doctor," he would say, " I don't
think that we have gone on nearly so weU to-day as we
might have done. I don't think our route was weU
chosen. We may have done fifteen or twenty mUes
(we had probably accompHshed three or four), but
that's not at all satisfactory. ' Festina lente' was

290 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
wisely said by the great lyric ; but he was never lost
in a forest, you see. Now, what I think ought to be
done is this : the Doctor and The Assiniboine are
strong vigorous feUows ; let them go five or six mUes
ahead and investigate the country, and then we shall
travel much more easUy to-morrow." The two
"vigorous feUows" were, however, generaUy too
much jaded by hard work during the day to adopt
his advice, and decHned the proposal.
The vaUey continued to run nearly due south,
and ranges of mountains separated only by the
nanowest ravines came down from the N.E. and
N.W. up to it on each side at an angle of 45°.
These proved serious obstacles to our progress, rising
almost perpendicularly from the water's edge.
On the 1st of August we came in sight of a fine
snowy mountain which appeared to block up the valley
ahead, and we hoped this might be the second of
two described to us as landmarks by the old woman
at The Cache, which she stated was not far from Fort
Kamloops. To this Milton gave the name of Mount
Cheadle, in return for the compliment previously paid
him by his companion. The river also became wider
and less rapid, and at one point divided into several
channels, flowing round low wooded islands. Only
one snowy mountain could be seen to the right, to
which we gave the name of Mount St. Anne; but
the road was as encumbered as ever.
After cutting a path for two days, The Assiniboine
was almost disabled by thorns in his hands and legs,
and as we had not accomplished more than two or three

DAYLIGHT AGAIN. 291
mUes each day, we attempted to escape out of the narrow
vaUey in which we were confined, in the hope of finding
clearer ground above. But the mountain sides were
too steep ; the horses roUed down one after another,
crashing amongst the faUen timber ; and we were com
peUed to imitate the example of the King of France,
and come down again. On the 3rd we reached a marsh
about 300 yards in length, scantUy covered with timber,
the first open space we had met with for ten days; and
the change from the deep gloom of the forest to the
bright sunlight made our eyes bHnk indeed, but
produced a most cheering effect on our spirits. The
horses here found plenty of pasture, although of poor
quality — a great boon to them after their long course
of twigs and mare's-taU. This was altogether a
brighter day than common, for we met with several
patches of raspberries, as large as English garden-
fruit, and two species of bUberry, the size of sloes,
growing on bushes two feet high. The woods were
garnished with large fern, Hke the EngHsh male fern,
a taU and slender bracken, and quantities of the oak
and beech fern. We had the luck, too, to kUl four
partridges for supper; and although the day was
showery, and we were completely soaked in pushing
through the underwood, we felt rather joUier that
night than we had done since the traU ended.
i Before evening we came to a rocky rapid stream
from the N.W. We aU mounted our horses to
traverse it except Mr. O'B., who had never become
reconcUed to riding since his dire experience along the
Fraser. What was to be done? Mr. O'B. obsti-
t 2

292 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
nately persisted that he dare not venture on horseback,
and the river was too deep and rapid to be safely
forded on foot. After some useless discussion with
him, we plunged our horses in, The Assiniboine and
his famUy having crossed afready ; but before
Cheadle's horse had left the bank a yard, Mr. O'B.
rushed madly after, dashed in, and .grasping the
flowing taU of Bucephalus with both hands, was
towed over triumphantly. After this great success,
his anxiety about prospective rivers was greatly
aUeviated. After leaving the Httle marsh above-mentioned, we
were again buried in the densest forest, without any
opening whatever, for several days, and worked away
in the old routine of cutting through timber, driving
perverse horses and extricating them from difficulties,
and subsisting on our scanty mess of "rubaboo."
Tracks of bears were numerous, and we saw signs of
beaver on aU the streams, but our advance was neces
sarily so noisy that we had smaU chance of seeing
game, and we could not afford to rest a day or two
for the purpose of hunting.
On the 5th The Assiniboine's single hand became
so swoUen and painful from the injuries caused by
the thorns of the aralea, that he was unable to handle
an axe, and the task of clearing a path devolved upon
Cheadle. This misfortune retarded us greatly, for
he was, of course, not so expert a pioneer as The
Assiniboine, and his assistance could Ul be spared by
the horse-drivers, who were now reduced to MUton and
the boy — with Mr. O'B., who began to afford more

OUR HOPES DISAPPOINTED. 293
active assistance than he had done hitherto. During
this day the vaUey appeared to open out widely a
few mUes ahead, and we reached a rounded hiU, from
which we could see some distance to the south. But
we were bitterly disappointed ; vast woods were stiU
before us without a sign of open country, and in the
distance the 'hills closed in most ominously. At
the foot of this eminence we crossed a rapid stream,
flowing into the main river by two channels some
twenty yards in width, which Mr. O'B. crossed with
great success by his improved method.
The foUowing day we struggled on from morning
to night without stopping, through difficulties greater
than ever; but on the 7th of August, the eighth
day of our being lost in the forest, we crossed
another stream, about thirty yards wide, clear and
shaUow, and evidently not fed by mountain snows.
We named it Elsecar River. Soon after we were
greatly encouraged by entering upon a tolerably
level space, about a square mUe in extent, the con
fluence of five nanow vaUeys. Part of this was
timbered, some of it burnt, and the rest marshy
meadow, with a few stunted trees here and there. In
the burnt portion we found large quantities of smaU
bUberries, not yet ripe, on which we stayed and dined,
and then forced our way to the marshy open, where
we encamped. The hopes of speedy escape which had sprung
up when we first observed the retreat of the hiUs to
the west, were quickly dispeUed. The flat proved
to be a mere oasis in the mountains, surrounded

294 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
by steep, pine-clad hiUs, from which the nanow gorges
between the different ranges afforded the only means of
egress. On this evening we ate our last morsel of
pemmican, and the only food we had left was about
a quart of flour. The distance from Tete Jaune
Cache to Kamloops was, according to our map, about
200 mUes ; but this estimate might be very enoneous,
the exact latitude of either being probably unknown
when our map was made. Calculating that we had
traveUed ten mUes a day, or seventy miles, when the
road ended, and had done three mUes a day, or thirty
altogether, since we began to cut our way, we had
stiU 100 mUes to travel before reaching the Fort.
Nearly the whole of this distance might be country
simUar to what we had already encountered. At any
rate, the prospect around gave us no hope of speedy
change for the better. We progressed so slowly, at
the best only five or six miles a day — often not one —
that it must take us many days yet to get in. There
seemed no chance of any assistance, for since leaving
Slaughter Camp we had seen no sign that man had
ever before visited this dismal region. No axe mark
on a tree, no "blaze" or broken twig, no remains of an
old camp fire had greeted our eyes. Animal Hfe was
scarce, and the solemn stUlness, unbroken by note of
bird or sound of Hving creature, and the deep gloom
of the woods — " Nulli penetrabilis astro
Lucus iners,"
as Mr. O'B. quoted — increased the sense of soHtude.
We had become so worn-out and emaciated by the

STARVING. 295
hard work and insufficient food of the last ten days,
that it was clear enough we could not hold out much
longer. We held a council of war after our last meal
was ended, and Mr. O.'B. laid down his one-eyed
spectacles and his Paley, to suggest that we should
immediately kiU " Blackie," as he affectionately de
nominated the Httle black horse he usuaUy took
charge of on the way. The Assiniboine and Cheadle
proposed to starve a few days longer, in the hope
of something turning up. Against this Mr. O'B.
entered a solemn protest, and eventuaUy MUton's
proposal was agreed to. This was that The Assini
boine should spend the next day in hunting : if he
were successful, we were reHeved ; and if not, the
" Petit Noir " must die. There seemed some chance
for his life, for The Assiniboine had caught sight of a
bear during the day, and the dog had chased another.
Their tracks were tolerably numerous, and The Assini
boine we knew to be the most expert hunter of the
Saskatchewan. Early next day The Assiniboine set out on his
hunt; Cheadle and the boy went to a smaU lake
ahead to try to get a shot at some geese which had
flown over the day before ; Milton gathered bUbenies ;
and Mr. O'B. studied ; whilst the woman essayed to
patch together shreds of moccasins. The party was
not a lively one, for there had been no breakfast
that morning. Mr. O'B., wearied of his Paley, de
clared that he was beginning to have painful doubts
concerning his faith, and would read no more. He
did not keep his resolution, however, but resumed his

296 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
reading the same evening, and brought out his book
afterwards at every resting-place with the same regu
larity as ever. In the afternoon Cheadle and the boy
returned empty-handed. The Assiniboine arrived
about the same time, and, producing a marten, threw
it down, saying drily, " J'ai trouve rien que cela et un
homme — un mort." He directed us where to find the
dead body, which was only a few hundred yards from
camp, ahd we set off with the boy to have a look
at the ominous spectacle. After a long search, we.
discovered it at the foot of a large pine. The corpse
was in a sitting posture, with the legs crossed, and
the arms clasped over the knees, bending forward over
the ashes of a miserable fire of smaU sticks. The
ghastly figure was headless, and the cervical vertebra?
projected dry and bare ; the skin, brown and shriveUed,
stretched Hke parchment tightly over the bony frame
work, so that the ribs showed through distinctly
prominent ; the cavity of the chest and abdomen was
filled with the exuviae of chrysales, and the arms and
legs resembled those of a mummy. The clothes, con
sisting of wooUen shirt and leggings, with a tattered
blanket, stiU hung round the shrunken form. Near
the body were a smaU axe, fire-bag, large tin kettle,.
and two baskets made of birch-bark. In the bag
were flint, steel, and tinder, an old knife, and a single
charge of shot carefuUy tied up in a piece of rag. One
of the baskets contained a fishing-line of cedar bark,
not yet finished, and two curious hooks, made of a piece
of stick and a pointed wire ; the other, a few wUd
onions, stiU green and growing. A heap of broken.

Sk^

HP

THE HEADLESS INDIAN.

(.See page 296.',

THE HEADLESS INDIAN. 297
bones at the skeleton's side — the fragments of a horse's
head — told the sad story of his fate. They were
chipped into the smaUest pieces, showing that the un
fortunate man had died of starvation, and prolonged
existence as far as possible by sucking every particle
of nutriment out of the broken fragments. He was
probably a Rocky Mountain Shushwap, who had been,
like ourselves, endeavouring to reach Kamloops, per
haps in quest of a wife. He had evidently intended
to subsist by fishing, but before his tackle was com
pleted, weakness — perchance illness — overtook him, he
made a smaU fire, squatted down before it, and died
there. But where was his head ? We searched
dihgently everywhere, but could find no traces of it.
If it had faUen off we should have found it lying near,
for an animal which had dared to abstract that would
have returned to attack the body. It could not have
been removed by violence, as the undisturbed position
of the trunk bore witness. We could not solve the
problem, and left him as we found him, taking only
his Httle axe for our necessities, and the steel, fishing-
line, and hooks as mementoes of the strange event. We
walked back to the camp sUent and full of thought.
Our spirits, already sufficiently low from physical
weakness and the uncertainty of our position, were
greatly depressed by this somewhat ominous dis
covery. The simUarity between the attempt of the
Indian to penetrate through the pathless forest — his
starvation, his killing of his horse for food — and our
own condition was striking. His story had been
exhibited before our eyes with unmistakable clearness

298 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
by the spectacle we had just left : increasing weak
ness; hopeless starvation; the effort to sustain the
waning Hfe by sucking the fragments of bones ;
the death from want at last. We also had arrived
at such extremity that we should be compeUed to
kUl a horse. The Indian had started with one
advantage over us ; he was in his own country — we
were wanderers in a strange land. We were in the last
act of the play. Would the final scene be the same ?
Every one took a rather gloomy view when we
discussed our prospects that evening, and "Blackie"
was unanimously condemned to die at daybreak.
The marten, made into a "rubaboo," with some bU-
berries, formed our only supper that evening, the
stinking and nauseous mess being distasteful even to
our ravenous appetites, and poor Mr. O'B. had not
the satisfaction of retaining what it had cost him so
great an effort to swaUow.
Early on the 9th of August "Blackie" was led
out to execution, but although aU were agreed as to
the necessity of the deed, every one felt compunction
at putting to death an animal which had been our
companion through so many difficulties. The Assini
boine, however, at last seized his gun and dispatched
him with a baU behind the ear. In a few minutes
steaks were roasting at the fire, and aU hands were at
work cutting up the meat into thin flakes for jerking.
AU day long we feasted to repletion on the portions
we could not carry with us, whUst the rest was drying
over a large fire; for although doubts had been
expressed beforehand as to whether it would prove

SUBSTITUTES FOR TEA AND TOBACCO. 299
palatable, and MUton declared it tasted of the
stable, none showed any deficiency of appetite.
The short intervals between eating we filled up by
mending our ragged clothes and moccasins, by this
time barely hanging together. Before turning into
our blankets we crowned the enjoyment of the feast
by one last smoke. We had not had tobacco for
weeks, but now obtained the flavour of it by pounding
up one or two black and weU-seasoned clays, and
mixing the dust with " kinnUtinnick." But this was
killing the goose with the golden egg, and as pure
" kinnikinnick" did not satisfy the craving, we laid
our pipes by for a happier day. We had tea, too —
not indeed the dark decoction of black Chinese
indulged in by unthrifty bachelors, or the chlorotic
beverage affected by careful, mature spinsters — but
the "tea muskeg" used by the Indians. This is
made from the leaves and flowers of a small white
azalea which we found in considerable quantities
growing in the boggy ground near our camp. The
decoction is reaUy a good substitute for tea, and we
became very fond of it. The taste is Hke ordinary
black tea with a dash of senna in it.
By noon on the foUowing day the meat was
dry. There was but Httle of it, not more than
thirty or forty pounds, for the horse was smaU and
miserably lean, and we resolved to restrict our
selves stiU to a smaU "rubaboo" twice a day. As
we had now two axes, and The Assiniboine's hand
was nearly weU, he and Cheadle both went ahead
to clear the way, and we again entered the forest, still

300 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
following the Thompson VaUey. The same diffi
culties met us as before, the same mishaps occurred,
and the horses proved as perverse and obstinate as
ever. The weather was fine and exceedingly hot,
and the second evening after leaving " Black Horse
Camp" — as we named the scene of " Blackie's" fate — ¦
The Assiniboine, worn out by the continual toU,
became thoroughly disheartened, protesting it was
perfectly impossible to get through such a country,
and useless to attempt it. We anxiously discussed
the question, as on every evening, of how many mUes
we had come that day, and whether it was possible
that the river we had struck might not be the
Thompson at aU, but some unknown stream which
might lead us into inextricable difficulties. We got
out our imperfect map, and showed The Assiniboine
that according to that the river ran due south through
a narrow vaUey shut in by mountains up to the very
Fort, in exact correspondence, so far, with the stream
along the banks of which we were making our way.
This encouraged him a Httle, and he worked away
next day with his usual untiring perseverance. We
found our diet of dried horse-meat, and that in
exceedingly smaU quantity — for we stiU kept our
selves on half-rations — very insufficient, and we were
frightfully hungry and faint aU day long. We rarely
killed more than two partridges in the day, and some
times, though not often, a skunk or a marten, and
these were but Httle amongst six people. Cheadle at
this time discovered three fish-hooks amongst the
wreck of our property, and made some night lines,

murchison's rapids. 301
which he set, baited with horse-flesh. These produced
three white trout the first night, one of which weighed
at least a couple of pounds, but, although they were
dihgently set every night afterwards, we never had
such luck again, occasionally killing a fish, but not a
dozen in aU during the rest of the journey. These
fish were marked like a salmon-trout, but had larger
heads. They were sluggish fish, lying at the bottom
of the deepest holes, and would not take a fly or
spinning bait, prefening, like the other barbarous fish
of the country, a piece of meat to more deHcate food.
They had very much the flavour of ordinary trout,
but their flesh was whiter and less firm.
The aspect of the country now changed, and on the
12th of August we entered a region rocky and barren,
where the timber was of smaUer size, but grew much
more thickly, and the surface of the ground was
covered only by moss and a few smaU HHes. The
ravine suddenly narrowed, its sides became precipitous,
and the river rushed over a bed of huge boulders,
a roaring, mighty rapid. The fallen timber lay as
thickly and entangled as the spiculae in the children's
game of speHcans ; we had HteraUy to force our way by
inches. We met with a godsend, however, in the
way of provisions, shooting a porcupine which had
been "treed" by the dog PapUlon. We found it
dehcious, although rather strong-flavoured, a thick
layer of fat under the skin being almost equal to that
of a turtle. The road at this point became so imprac
ticable from the steep, encumbered hiU-sides which
came down to the water's edge, that we were fre-

302 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
quently obHged to pull up and wait for hours whUst
The Assiniboine found a way by which it was possible
to pass. We expected every day to come to some
barrier which would completely prevent our further
advance. What course could we take then? Take
to a raft or abandon our horses and cHmb past on
foot? We feared the alternative, yet were unwUHng
to confess the probable extremity. We had come too
far to turn back, even if we had been wUling to
retreat. After three days' traveUing along the bank of
this rapid, to which we gave the name of Murchison's
Rapids, never out of hearing of its continual roar,
offensive to the ears of Mr. O'B., the vaUey
became narrower stiU, and we were brought to a
standstiH by a precipice before us. We were shut
in on one side by the river, and on the other
by hiUs so steep and embarrassed that it seemed
hopeless to attempt to scale them, for we had tried
that before, and miserably faded. There was nothing
for it but to camp at once, and seek a way by which
to pass this barrier. The horses had not tasted
grass since leaving the marsh, four days ago, and for
the last three had fed upon the moss and lilies grow
ing amongst the rocks. They wandered to and fro
all the night, walkmg in and out between us, and
stepping over us as we lay on the ground. Mr. O'B.,
too, passed a restless night in consequence, and
aroused us continuaUy by jumping up and whack
ing them with his great stick. The poor animals
grubbed up the moss from the rocks, and every-

MR. 0 B. AND BUCEPHALUS. 303
thing green within their reach had disappeared by
morning. The indefatigable Assiniboine started at
day-break to search for a path, whilst the rest of us
packed the horses and awaited his return. He came
back in an hour or two with the news that the
country ahead grew more and more difficult, but that
we could, with care, lead the horses past the present
opposing bluff. This relieved us from the fear that
we might be compeUed to abandon our horses
here, and have to make our way on foot. We
had to mount the hill-side by a zigzag, over
loose moss-grown rocks, leading the horses past
one by one. The accidents which occurred, though
perhaps not so numerous as on some occasions, were
more .extraordinary, and wUl serve to Ulustrate
what occurred daily. AU the horses had safely
passed the dangerous precipice except one which
Cheadle was leading, and Bucephalus, in charge
of Mr. O'B., who brought up the rear. The length
of the zigzag was about a quarter of a mile, and
when the former had got nearly over, he turned to
look for those behind him. They were not to be seen.
Cheadle, therefore, left his horse, and going back
to see what had happened, met Mr. O'B. climbing
hastdy up the mountain-side, but minus Bucephalus.
" Where's the horse ?" said Cheadle. " Oh," said Mr.
O'B., " he's gone, killed, tumbled over a precipice.
Facilis descensus, you see. He slipped and feU over
— eWa nrebovbe nvtivbero "HIII02 avaib-qs, you know,
Doctor, and I have not seen him since. It's not
the slightest use going back, I assure you, to look

304 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
for him, for he's comminuted, smashed to atoms,
dashed to a thousand pieces ! It's a dreadful thing,
isn't it P" Cheadle, however, sternly insisted that
Mr. O'B. should accompany him back to the
scene of the accident, and the latter reluctantly
foUowed. The place where the horse had sHpped and
struggled was easUy found, for the bark torn off the
recumbent trunks marked the course of his headlong
descent. The place from which he feU was about 120
or 130 feet above the river, and the last thirty or
forty feet of this a perpendicular face of rock. Cheadle
crept down and looked over the edge, and on a Httle
flat space below saw Bucephalus, astride of a large tree,
lengthwise. The tree was propped up by others hori
zontally at such a height that the animal's legs hung
down on each side without touching the ground. The
two then descended, expecting to find him mortaUy
injured, but, to their astonishment, he appeared quite
comfortable in his novel position. The packs were
taken off, and Cheadle, by a vigorous Hft — Mr. O'B.
decHning the suggestion that he should haul at the
taU, on the ground of the dangerous nature of the
service — roUed the horse from his perch. He was un
injured, and Mr. O'B. led him past the most dangerous
part, whUst his companion toUed after, canying the
packs up the brow to safer ground. After the horse
had been re-loaded, the two pursued their way, but
before many yards were passed, the other horse sHpped,
and roUed down the hUl. He luckUy brought up
against some trees, before reaching the bottom ; but

THE PORTE D'ENFER. 305
again the pack had to be cut off, again canied up, and
the horse hauled on to his legs and led up the steep.
Soon after they joined the rest, another horse, refusing
to jump some timber in the path, bolted aside and fell
into a regular pit, formed by fallen trees and rocks ;
every effort to extricate him was useless. We were
alone, for the rest of the party had gone on, and after
trying in vain for nearly an hour, Milton ran ahead,
caught them up, and brought back the axe. It was
another hour's work to cut him out and re-pack, but
we found our companions not far before us, and indeed
there was little danger of their leaving us any great
distance behind.
The river stiU continued a grand rapid, and a short
distance more brought us to a place where the ravine
suddenly narrowed to about fifty feet, with high
straight-cut rocks on either side, through which, for
about 100 yards, almost at a right angle, and down a
swift descent, the waters raged so frightfully about
huge rocks standing out in the stream, that it was
instantly named by The Assiniboine the " Porte
d'Enfer." No raft or canoe could have Hved there
for a moment, and we thankfully congratulated
ourselves that we had decided to make our way by
land. We camped for the night close to where we had
started in the morning, and The Assiniboine, having
cut his foot to the bone on the sharp rocks, amongst
which we walked nearly barefoot, was completely dis
abled. That night he was thoroughly disheartened,
.declared the river we were foUowing was not the
u

306 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Thompson at aU, and we must make up our minds to
perish miserably. Mr. O'B. of course heartily con
curred, and it required aU our powers of persuasion,
and an explanation by the map, to restore hope.
Another day simUar to the last brought us to the
end of the rapid. The woman had bravely taken her
husband's place ahead with an axe, and worked away
Hke a man. The last of the dried horse-flesh, boiled
with the scrapings of the flour-bag, formed our supper.
We had only three charges of powder left, and this we
kept for special emergency. The Assiniboine, however,
and his son had succeeded in " nobbhng " a brace of
partridges, knocking the young birds out of the trees
with short sticks, missUes they used with great
dexterity. We had been cheered during the day by
observing the first traces of man — except the dead body
of the Indian — we had seen for sixteen days. These
were old stumps of trees, which bore marks of an axe,
though now decayed and mossed over. The next day,
however, was cold and wet, and we felt wretched
enough as we forced our way for hours through a
beaver swamp, where the bracken grew higher than
our heads, and tangled wUlows of great size required
cutting away at ' every step. Slimy, stagnant pools,
treacherous and deep, continuaUy forced us to turn
aside. At last a stream, whose banks were densely
clothed with underwood, baned the path, and we
could not find a practicable ford. Drenched to the
skin, shivering, miserable, having had no food since
the previous evening, we felt almost inclined to give
way to despair, for we seemed to have gained nothing

MR. 0 B. RESOLVES ON MADNESS. 307
by our labours. There was.no sign of the end. Our
journey had now lasted nearly three months ; for
five weeks we had not seen a human being, nor for
the last three had we seen the smaUest evidence of
man's presence at any time in the wUd forest in
which we were buried.
After several futile attempts to cross the stream,
The Assiniboine sat down with his wife and son,
and refused to go any further. We did not attempt
to argue the matter, but, merely remarking that we
did not intend to give in without another struggle,
took the axes, and renewed the search for a crossing
place. Having at length discovered a shaUow place,
and cut a path to it, we led the horses into the water,
but the mud was so soft and deep, and the banks
so beset with shppery logs, that they could not climb
up, and roUed back into the water. At this juncture
The Assiniboine, fairly put to shame, came to our as
sistance, and we unpacked the animals and hauled them
out. We were quite benumbed by standing so long
up to our waists in the ice-cold water, and after we had
got the horses across, as the rain stiU poured down,
we camped on a Httle mound in the midst of the
dismal swamp. There was no chance of finding any
other provision, and we therefore led out another horse
and shot him at once. Another day was occupied in
drying the meat, and in mending our tattered garments
as before. Mr. O'B., who, it is only justice to say,
had improved vastly under his severe trials, was now
plunged in the depths of despair. He confided to us
that he loathed Paley, whom he looked upon as a
u 2

308 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
special pleader ; that his faith was sapped to its founda
tions, and — "curis ingentibus ceger" — he was rapidly be
coming insane, adding that he should have lost his
wits long ago but for his book ; and now, since he must
be deprived of that consolation, there could be but
one honible result — madness. And in truth we had
noticed a remarkable change during the last week.
From being the most garrulous of men, he had lately
become the most taciturn ; and although solemn and
sUent in company, he muttered to himseH incessantly
as he walked along. Revived, however, by a plentiful
meal of fresh meat, he became more cheerful, took a
more orthodox view of the " Evidences," the one-eyed
spectacles again stole on to his nose, Paley again
came forth from the pocket of the clerical coat, and he
was presently absorbed in theology once more.
The rest of us discussed our prospects, and various
plans were proposed. It was certain that the horses,
aHeady mere skeletons, could not hold out many days
longer, unless they found proper pasturage. For
a long time past indeed we had expected some of
them to He down and die in their tracks. Their
bodies mere frames of bone covered with skin,, their
flanks hoUow, their backs raw, their legs battered,
swoUen, and bleeding — a band for the knackers' yard
— they were painful to look upon.
The project of rafting was renewed, for the river
now flowed with a tempting tranquillity; but the
recoUection of the Grand Rapid and Porte d'Enfer
decided us against it, and doubtless we thus escaped
great disaster, for we afterwards met with several

WE FIND A TRAIL. 309
dangerous rapids in the river below. We agreed to
stick to our horses as long as they could travel, then
kill some for provisions, and make for the Fort on
foot. The Assiniboine was utterly dispirited, and con
tinued gloomy and morose, dropping from time to time
hints of desertion, and reproaching us bitterly with
having led him into such desperate straits. He
camped apart from us, with his wife and boy, holding
frequent and significant consultations with them ; and
it required aU the forbearance we could command, to
prevent an open rupture with the man and his family.
On the morning of the 1 8th, before we started, our
ears were greeted by the cry of that bird of iU omen, a
crow — to us proclaiming glad tidings, for it was a sure
indication of more open country being at hand. Our
spirits were raised stiU more by observing during the
day's journey signs of man's presence as recent as
the preceding spring — a few branches cut with a
knife, as if by some one making his way through the
bushes. A heavy thunder-storm which came on obHged us
to camp very early; but the next day we struck a
faint traU, which sHghtly improved as we advanced,
and towards evening we found the tracks of horses.
The path disappeared, and re-appeared again, during
the next two days, and was stiU very dubious and
faint, so that we were afraid it might be a deceptive
one, after aU ; but on the night of the 21st we came
to a marsh where, horse tracks were very numerous
and found on the further side, where we camped, a
large cedar feUed, from which a canoe had been made.

310 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
On a tree was an inscription which was not legible,
although the words seemed to be EngHsh. To our
intense dehght, the next morning we hit upon a trail
where the trees had been "blazed," or marked with
an axe a long time ago, and old marten-traps at
intervals informed us that we had at last touched
the extreme end of an old trapping path from the
Fort. The vaUey began rapidly to expand, the hUls
became lower, the traU continued to become more and
more beaten, and at noon on the 22nd we fairly
shouted for joy as we emerged from the gloom in
which we had so long been imprisoned, on to a
beautiful Httle prairie, and saw before us a free, open
country, diversified with rounded hiUs and stretches
of woodland. We stopped with one accord, and lay
down on the green turf, basking in the sun, whUst we
aUowed our horses to feed on the rich prairie grass,
such as they had not tasted since leaving Edmonton.
The day was gloriously bright and fine, and the
deHght with which we gazed upon the beautiful
landscape before us wiU be appreciated, if the reader
• wUl reflect that we had traveUed for more than eleven
weeks without cessation, and for the last month had
been lost in the forest, starving, over-worked, almost
hopeless of escape. Even Mr. O'B., who had resumed
the study of Paley with renewed zest, looked up
from his book from time to time, and ventured to
express a hope that we might escape, after aU, and
offered his advice upon the course to be pursued in
the happier time at hand.

CHAPTER XVI.
On a Trail again — The Effect on Ourselves and the Horses — The
Changed Aspect of the Country — Wild Fruits — Signs of Man
Increase — Our Enthusiastic Greeting — Starving Again — Mr. O'B.
finds Caliban— His Affectionate Behaviour to Him — The Indians'
Camp — Information about Kamloops — Bartering for Food —
Clearwater River— Cross the Thompson — The Lily-Berries —
Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine FaU Out— Mr. O'B. flees to the
Woods — Accuses The Assiniboine of an Attempt to Murder Him
—Trading for Potatoes — More Shushwaps — Coffee and Pipes —
Curious Custom of the Tribe — Kamloops in Sight — Ho ! for the
Fort— Mr. O'B. takes to his Heels— Captain St. Paul— A Good
Supper — Doubts as to our Reception— Our Forbidding Appear-
ance-'-Our Troubles at an End — Rest.

The trail was well worn and cleared, and after we
reached the Httle prairie we were able to proceed at
a great pace; the horses as inspirited as ourselves
by the pleasing change, occasionaUy broke into a
trot, although, from their skeleton-Hke appearance,
we almost expected the shaking would cause them
to tumble to pieces. The river again became a rapid,
and a dark biU, running east and west, loomed up
ahead, as if closing in the vaUey. But the country
around had assumed a Californian aspect — the colour
of a lithograph — rolling swells, brown with bunch-
grass, and studded with scattered yeUow pines. The

312 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
more sandy hiUs were covered with smaU spruce,
and there, too, grew quantities of bilberries as large as
EngHsh grapes, and of dehcious flavour. Here and
there wUd cherry-trees, or thorns loaded with large
black haws, suppHed us with a grateful though
unsatisfying food. We were up before daylight on
the 23rd, eager to reach the Fort, and journeyed
through as pleasant a country and along as easy
a road as the day before, revelhng in the broad sun-
Hght. At noon signs of man became more numerous.
We found the print of a moccasin in the sand of the
river-bank, and saw an old canoe on the opposite
shore. Presently we were startled by the rustling of
the bushes which closed in the track before us, and,
directly after, an Indian appeared, foUowed by a squaw
having a child upon her back. These were the first
human beings we had seen since leaving the Tete
Jaune Cache, and the man was immensely astonished
by the greeting we gave him, shaking hands with
him violently, laughing, and asking questions he
could not understand. He evidently knew the word
Kamloops, and we concluded from his signs that we
should meet more Indians shortly, and might reach
Kamloops that night. We hurried forward again for
another ten or twelve miles, but there was not a sign
of the Fort, nor did we meet more Indians. On this
evening we ate the last morsel of dried horse, but
resolved to trust now to obtaining food from the
Indians whom we expected to meet before long.
By midday on the 24th we reached another beau
tiful little prairie, across which paths came into the

MR. OB. INTRODUCES CALIBAN. 313
one we foUowed from aU directions. We had just
crossed a clear shaUow stream, which we named
Wentworth River, when we heard Mr. O'B. shouting
behind us, and calling loudly for Cheadle. We
stopped, and he came up, leading affectionately by
the hand a most hideously repulsive-looking Indian.
He wore nothing but a pair of ragged trousers, his
skin was dirty, and his face perfectly diabohcal — a
vast expanse of visage, in the midst of which a
rugged, swollen nose stood out, a mouth which
yawned Hke the gates of Gehenna, and eyes with
a most mahgnant squint. Behind this monster,
whom we at once named " Caliban," foUowed a
younger feUow of more prepossessing appearance ; but
Mr. O'B. regarded him not, pulling Caliban along,
and crying out, " Look here, my lord ! look here,
Doctor ! I've been the means of saving us, after
aU." He chattered to his new-found friend inces
santly, patting him lovingly on the shoulder, and
looking in his face with most insinuating smiles.
The two men made signs to us to foUow them, and
we went with them to a Httle open space. Two
squaws and some chUdren were seated over a fire,
engaged in cooking berries in an iron pot. Directly
we mentioned Kamloops, they exclaimed, "Aiyou
muck-a-muck, aiyou tea, aiyou tobacco, aiyou salmon,
aiyou whisky, Kamloops!" from which we infened
there were abundance of good things to be iound
there. The Assiniboine inquired by signs how long
it would take us to reach Fort Kamloops, and the
younger man, in reply, imitated fast walking, and
then going to sleep four times in succession ; meaning

314 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
thereby it would take us four days' hard traveUing to
get there. They offered us a portion of the berries,
which we ate very greedily, and then produced two
rabbits, for one of which Mr. O'B. gave a tattered
shirt, and the other we bought for some needles and
smaU shot. Presently the old Shushwap we had
encountered the previous day turned up, hot and
exhausted by his efforts to overtake us. He hurried
away again immediately, but returned in a few
minutes with some potatoes, to seU which he had
come back in such haste. Mrs. Assiniboine, to our
surprise, produced a nice clean Hnen shirt of Mr.
Assiniboine's, which she had managed by some means
to save from the general wreck, offered it to the old
Indian, and the potatoes were ours. We ate some
raw at once, so famished were we; and when the
remainder and the rabbits were cooked, had a great
feast. The Indians agreed to raise camp and go with
us, the younger feUow accompanying us on foot, while
CaHban took charge of the women and chUdren in
two canoes. We came to a large stream flowing into
the Thompson from the west (Clearwater River),
where we found Caliban awaiting us with the canoes,
by which we crossed to the southern bank, and there
camped for the night.
During our journey the foUowing morning we
came upon the dead bodies of two Indians— a man
and woman — lying festering in the sun. They
were lying side by side, covered with a blanket,
and aU their goods and chattels undisturbed
around. We saw several more of these ghastly
spectacles afterwards, and made out from our

ASSINIBOINE BLUFF. 315
Shushwap friends that there had been a fearful
mortality amongst the Indians, owing, as we subse
quently learnt, to the ravages of small-pox. At
mid-day we found Caliban and his ladies waiting
to transfer us to the eastern bank of the Thompson,
whither the trail now led. We dined with them
before crossing, our fare being the fruit of a kind of
Iffy, which tasted much Hke the berry of the yew
tree, and was exceedingly luscious. We ate freely of
it, both cooked and raw, and suffered horribly in
consequence. When we had crossed the river, MUton and
Mrs. Assiniboine accepted the Indians' invitation
to go with them in the canoes, whUst the rest
brought the horses along the bank. Cheadle was
shortly after seized with severe pains in the stomach,
accompanied by violent nausea and vomiting. He
was compeUed to puU up and remain behind; and
after remaining some two hours, seated on a log
in most woful plight, crawled after the rest with
some difficulty. He came up with them at the
foot of a steep, rocky bluff — to which we afterwards
gave the name of Assiniboine Bluff, from an in
cident which occurred there — up whicb the trad
passed by a tortuous zigzag.
Up this the others led the horses one by one,
the track, a mere ledge of rock, ascending the per
pendicular face of the bluff nearly to the summit,
and descending as rapidly by the other side. Last
of aU Cheadle led his horse up the perilous path,
and when he gained the top, heard a great shouting
and commotion going on amongst the party who

316 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
had descended before him. AU was soon quiet, and
by the time he got down every one had disappeared.
Darkness came on rapidly, the road lay through
thick wood, and Cheadle, hastening on, found The
Assiniboine and his boy at a standstill, unable to
distinguish the trail any longer. Although they
had no provisions, there was nothing for it but
to give up the idea of meeting the canoe-party,
as had been agreed, and camp on the spot. Before
very long it dawned upon Cheadle that Mr. O'B.
was wanting, and he inquired of The Assiniboine
what had become of him. The latter was evidently
rather disconcerted by the question, and answered
in some confusion, " H est bete ! U m'avait quereUe,
et puis s'est sauve." On cross-examination The
Assiniboine confessed that he had lost his temper
with "Le Vieux" about his management of the
horses, and in his anger had struck him with his
fist, whereupon Mr. O'B. fled in terror, and disap
peared in the woods.
The night was pitch dark, the woods thick, and
the trad very indistinct. Mr. O'B. had the habit
of always losing a good track in broad daylight,
and Cheadle felt serious apprehensions for his fate
now. But it was useless to look for him untU
morning, and the party turned in supperless — the
horses being in the same predicament. In the
meantime Milton had arrived in the canoe at a
Httle prairie, where were several Indian potato-
gardens, from which Cahban and his party pro
vided a plentiful supper, and after waiting in vain
for the arrival of Cheadle and The Assiniboine,

MR. OB. AND THE ASSINIBOINE FALL OUT. 317
gave them up and sought their blankets. Shortly
before daylight Milton was awakened out of a
sound sleep by some one shaking him, and saying,
"My lord! my lord! you must get up directly; some
thing very serious has happened," and Milton re
cognised the quavering accents of Mr. O'B. Quite
at a loss to understand how he had got there alone
at that time, Milton sat up and listened to his
explanation. " My lord," said Mr. O'B., " I accuse The Assini
boine of attempting to murder me. We had some
trouble with the horses, and as I stood by, not
knowing how to help, he came up to me with most
fiendish expression, and deliberately hit me a
tremendous blow on the head with the back of
his axe. I was stunned, but managed to run off
into the woods — hardly recollect anything more —
wandering about bewildered — ' Hie mihi nescio quod
trepido male numen amicum confusam eripuit mentem' —
until I caught sight of the fire, and found you here.
You know, my lord, I warned you and the Doctor
at Edmonton of the dangerous character you were
trusting yourselves with. He is a most wicked
man. I shaU go on to Kamloops as soon as it is
light, and get out a warrant for the apprehension
of The Assiniboine immediately on his arrival."
Milton could not help laughing at his earnest
ness and fright, told him that he must be mistaken
as to the murderous intentions of The Assiniboine,
for had he struck him as described, Mr. O'B.
would not have wandered far. Cheadle's party

318 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
arrived in the course of an hour or two, and we
examined both The Assiniboine and his victim. A
slight sweUing on Mr. O'B.'s occiput was the only
injury to be discovered, and we came to, the con
clusion that The Assiniboine's account of the quarrel
was substantially correct. We rebuked the man
very severely, warning him of the danger of such
behaviour in the country we were now entering;
whUe to Mr. O'B. we represented the absurdity
of supposing any murderous intent. But the latter
was unconvinced. He dared not leave the side
of one of us for a moment, and it was most laugh
able to observe how he watched every movement
of The Assiniboine, apprehensive of a renewal of
hostUities. From Caliban we purchased a bucket
ful of potatoes, for MUton's embroidered Indian
saddle and Mr. O'B.'s M.B. waistcoat, the last
article of trade he could rake up. CaHban and his
family bade us good-bye here, but the younger
man and his squaw agreed to guide us within sight
of Kamloops. The following day we met some Indians, whom we
took at first for Mexicans, so Httle did they resemble
the Red Men of the eastern side. Their faces were
of Asiatic cast, rather than the European character
shown by the fine bold features of the true North
American Indian, the countenance broader and
rounder, the nose smaller and less prominent, and
the complexion darker and less transparent. Their
horses were equipped with Mexican saddles, and the
bridles garnished by numberless little beUs. They

HO ! FOR THE FORT. 819
treated us to coffee and a smoke, and who will doubt
the luxury of it to us, after six weeks' abstinence ?
On the afternoon of the 28th our guide turned back,
after showing us a distant range of hills which
marked the position of Kamloops, and gave us to
understand that we should sleep there that night.
The man had treated us very kindly, and we pre
sented him with The Assiniboine's gun. We heard
afterwards that he dared not visit the rest of the tribe
near the Fort, afraid of retribution for a grievous
offence against the Shushwap laws. It seems to be
the rule with them, as with the Jews, that should a
man die chddless, his brother shaU marry the widow.
Our friend had carried off a widow, and married her,
whereupon the injured brother-in-law vowed ven
geance, and the offender feared to encounter him.
We walked on in the hot sun, weary, weak, and
footsore, but at dusk could not see our destination.
We had not yet recovered from the effect of the
berries, and became so faint and exhausted that we
yielded at length to the request of The Assiniboine
to ride on ahead, and leave him to follow more
slowly. Fortunately the horses had revived so much
with the good pasture of the last few days, that two
were found able to carry riders ; and away we went,
getting a canter out of our skeleton steeds with
much difficulty. Mr. O'B. had walked on before the
rest, in his eagerness to gain the protection of the
law, and when we passed him, began to run after us,
crying, "Don't leave me, my lord !" " Do stop for
me, Doctor ! Please let me come with you !" But

320 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
we had no compassion on him, and gaUoped on.
Whenever we looked behind us, we saw Mr. O'B.
still running at the top of his speed, afraid the blood
thirsty Assiniboine might overtake him. We entered
on a sandy plain, on the further side of which were
hills running east and west. The Fort could not
be beyond them. On we went, hammering and
shouting at our flagging beasts, and ever and anon
looking behind, when Mr. O'B. could still be seen in
the dim twdight, tearing after us with undiminished
speed. At last, after it was quite dark, we caught
sight of a house, galloped up to it, jumped off, left
our horses to their own devices, and entered a sort
of yard, where were several half-breeds and Indians
just rising from their seats round a cloth spread on
the ground, with the remains of supper. An old
Indian came, introduced himself, in a mixed jar
gon of French, EngHsh, and Chinook, as Captain St.
Paul, and inquired who we were. We told him we
had come across the mountains, and were starving,
begging him to give us some food as quickly as pos
sible. He said we should have abundance immediately,
but that we must pay "un piastre chaque." We
recklessly assured him that if it cost 100 doUars each
we must have it ; and before long we were devouring
a greasy mess of bacon and cabbage and some de
licious cakes, and drinking copiously the long-desired
tea. Before we had eaten many mouthfuls, Mr. O'B.
arrived breathless, but not the least exhausted, and
attacked the good things as savagely as ourselves.
He was the only one of the company who had the

OUR TROUBLES ARE OVER AT LAST. 321
strength to perform the feat of running three or
four mUes, which he had just accomplished. In
about an hour The Assiniboine arrived with the
horses, and soon shared the deHghts of an unlimited
feed. The number of cakes we ate astonished even
the Indians, whose views on this subject are broad
enough. Presently Mr. Martin and several others
arrived from the Fort, to be present at a half-
breeds' baU which was to take place at St. Paul's
that evening. Mr. Martin received us with great
kindness, and invited us to take up our quarters with
him the next day. We were surprised to meet with
such unquestioning hospitahty, for in truth we were
as miserable and unprepossessing a company as ever
presented itself for approval : our clothes in tatters,
the legs of MUton's trousers torn off above the
knees, and Cheadle's in ribbons ; our feet covered
only by the shreds of moccasins ; our faces gaunt,
haggard, and unshaven ; our hair long, unkempt, and
matted ; and we had no means of proving our identity,
where our appearance was so little calculated to
inspire confidence or liking. But our story was
beheved at once, and our troubles were over at last—'
at last !

CHAPTER XVII.
Kamloops — We discover true Happiness — The Fort and surrounding
Country — The Adventures of the Emigrants who preceded us —
Catastrophe at the Grand Rapid — Horrible Fate of Three Canadians
— Cannibalism — Practicability of a Road by the Yellow Head Pass
— Various Routes from Tete Jaune Cache — Advantages of the
Yellow Head Pass, contrasted with those to the South — The
Future Highway to the Pacific — Return of Mr. McKay — Mr. O'B.
sets out alone — The Murderers — The Shushwaps of Kamloops — :
Contrast between them and the Indians East of the Rocky Moun
tains — Mortality — -The Dead Unburied — Leave Kamloops — Strike
theWagon Road from the Mines— Astonishment of The Assiniboine
Family — The remarkable Terraces of the Thompson and Fraser —
Their great Extent : contain Gold — Connection with the Bunch-
grass — The Road along the Thompson — Cook's Ferry — The
Drowned Murderer — Rarity of Crime in the Colony — The most
Wonderful Road in the World— The Old Trail— Pack-Indians—
Indian mode of catching Salmon — Gay Graves — The Grand
Scenery of the Canons — Probable Explanation of the Formation
of the Terraces— Yale — Hope and Langley — New Westminster — •
Mr. O'B. turns up again — Mount Baker — The Islands of the Gulf
of Georgia — Victoria, Vancouver Island.
The sun was high when we turned out on the 29th
of August. After a substantial breakfast we crossed
over to the Fort, which is situated on the opposite
side of the river. Here we were most hospitably
received by Mr. Martin and Mr. Burgess, who were
in charge during the absence of the chief trader,
Mr. McKay. The first thing we did after our arrival
was to obtain a suit of clothes apiece from the store,
and proceed to the river, where we had a dehghtful

WE DISCOVER TRUE HAPPINESS. 323
bathe. We threw our rags into the Thompson, donned
our new attire, and then enjoyed the otium cum digni-
tate to our hearts' content, and over grateful pipes
inquired the news — not of the day — but of the past
year. Great events had occurred during our seclusion
from the world. We heard for the first time of the mar
riage of the Prince of Wales, the Polish insurrection,
the prospect of war between Denmark and Prussia,
the progress of the American contest. But although
this was delightful enough, it was not the greatest
pleasure we enjoyed. The height of happiness — we
say it advisedly, yet knowing the contempt which
must overwhelm us : it is true, oh, philosopher ; it is
true, dear lady, with strong mind and spectacles,
wearer of cerulean hose — the height of happiness
was eating and drinking ! Deal with us gently, sour
ascetics and stern divines abhorring the carnal, and
corpulent, virtuous magistrates who sit in judgment
on miserable creatures driven into sin by starvation
¦ — expertis credite. Have we not thousands on our
side in this great city who daily hunger ? — not to
mention a few aldermen and a well-fed bishop or two
to back us on principle? Talk not to us of intellec
tual raptures ; the mouth and stomach are the doors
by which enter true delight. Mutton chops, potatoes,
bread, butter, milk, rice pudding, tea, and sugar :
contrast dried horse-flesh and water, or martens, or
nothing at all, with these luxuries ! The ordinary
bountiful meals of the Fort were quite inadequate for
our satisfaction, and we managed to interpolate three
more by rising early in the morning, before the good
v 2

324 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
people of the Fort were up, and breakfasting with
Mr. and Mrs. Assiniboine, who dwelt in the tent hard
by, secretly visiting them again between breakfast
and dinner, dinner and supper. We rested from
eating only from a sense of repletion, not from any
decrease of appetite. Under this active treatment
our meagre bodies rapidly waxed gross, and three
weeks afterwards Cheadle made the astounding dis
covery that he had gained forty-one pounds since his
arrival at Kamloops !
The Hudson's Bay Company's Fort at Kamloops
is situated on the south bank of the Thompson, a
few hundred yards below the junction of the northern
with the southern branch. Opposite the Fort the two
streams flow distinct in a common channel, the
turbid, glacier-fed river from the north contrasting
with the limpid waters of the other, like the Missouri
after its junction with the Missisippi. The Shush
wap branch of the Thompson coming from the south
turns to the west, to enter the Shushwap lake, and
flows in the same direction to Kamloops, below
which its waters are rendered muddy by the accession
of the northern branch. Seven miles below, the river
expands into Lake Kamloops, and issues from thence
again clear and pellucid, to be lost at Lytton in the
muddy and turbulent Fraser.
The country round Kamloops is of the Californian
character before described. Rolling hills, covered
with bunch-grass and scattered pines, rise in every
direction. The pasturage is very rich and extensive,
and large bands of horses, herds of cattle, and flocks

THE STORY OF THE EMIGRANTS. 325
of sheep,- are kept here by the Hudson's Bay
Company. During our stay here, and in our subsequent
travels through British Columbia, we met some of the
emigrants who had crossed the mountains the year
before, and heard the history of their adventures.
It will be remembered that when the first and prin
cipal body left Tete Jaune Cache, they divided, one
party making large rafts there to descend the Fraser,
whilst the others sought the head waters of the
North Thompson. Those who went down the Fraser,
after much suffering and many mishaps, eventually
arrived at the Mouth of Quesnelle, having lost
one of their number, who sank from disease induced
by hardship and exposure. The party who followed
the Thompson, about sixty in number, after vainly
endeavouring to cut their way to Cariboo, turned
south, in order to try and reach Kamloops.
In a few days their provisions gave out, and their
progress had been so slow and difficult that they
gave up in despair the design of making their way
by land. At " Slaughter Camp " they kiUed their
oxen and dried the meat ; then built large rafts, on
which they embarked, abandoning aU their horses,
amounting to between forty and fifty.
The Assiniboine had rightly interpreted the signs
of their trad. AU went well with the voyageurs
until they reached the Grand. Rapid. The men on
the leading rafts did not perceive the dariger untU
too late to avoid it. The rafts were sucked into the
rapids in spite of aU. their efforts, and many of the

326 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
unfortunate people drowned. Those who. followed
were warned in time by the fate of their companions,
and succeeded in reaching the shore in safety. They
had now to cut their way along the precipitous banks
which proved so difficult to us, but as they landed
on the opposite side of the river, we did not come
across their traU. After reaching the end of the
Grand Rapid (Murchison's Rapids) they again made
rafts, and, shooting the lower rapids safely, arrived
in wretched plight at Kamloops.
The third party, consisting of five Canadians — -
three brothers named Rennie, and two others, Hel-
stone and Wright— crossed later in the autumn, and
obtained canoes at the Cache to descend the Fraser.
The Shushwaps there had informed us that they
had discovered the canoes lying bottom upwards,
and their property strewn along the shore, below
some rapids, and believed that the whole party had
been drowned. But three of their number met with
a far more horrible fate than this. We now learnt
that, in order to shoot the dangerous rapids with
greater safety, they had lashed the two canoe3
together ; but in spite of this precaution the boats
were swamped. Two of the Pennies succeeded in
reaching the shore, and the other three men a rock
in the middle of the stream. For two days and
nights the latter remained exposed to the bitter cold
of the commencing winter, without a morsel of food,
before their companions were able to effect their re
lease. A rope was at last passed to the rock, and
the men hauled ashore, half dead with hunger, and

HORRIBLE FATE OF THE THREE CANADIANS. 327
fearfully frost-bitten. They were so helpless as to be
quite unable to proceed further, and the two Rennies,
having cut a quantity of fire-wood, and given them
almost the whole of their scanty stock of provisions,
set out on foot to seek assistance at Fort George,
which they calculated on reaching in six days. But
they had under-rated the distance ; their path lay
through dense encumbered forests, and the snow had
fallen to considerable depth before they reached the
Fort, frost-bitten, and almost dead from hunger and
exhaustion, after twenty-eight days' travelling.
Indians were immediately sent out to the assistance
of the unfortunate men left behind, but returned in
a few days, declaring the snow was too deep for them
to proceed. Other Indians, however, discovered the
party some time afterwards. Helstone and Wright
were still alive, but, maddened by hunger, had killed
Rennie. When they were found they had eaten aU
but his legs, which they held in their hands at the
time. They were covered with blood, being engaged
in tearing the raw flesh from the bones with their
teeth. The Indians attempted to light a fire for
them, when the two cannibals drew their revolvers,
and looked so wild and savage, that the Indians fled
and left them to their fate, not daring to return.
The following spring a party of miners, on their way
to Peace River, were guided by Indians to the place
where these men were seen by them. The bones
of two were found pUed in a heap, one skull had
been split open by an axe, and many of the other
bones showed the marks of teeth. The third was

328 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
missing, but was afterwards discovered a few
hundred yards from the camp. The skull had
been cloven by an axe, and the clothes stripped
from the body, which was Httle decomposed. The
interpretation of these signs could hardly be
mistaken. The last survivor had kdled his feUow-
murderer and eaten him, as shown by the gnawed
bones so carefully piled in a heap. He had in turn
probably been murdered by Indians, for the principal
part of the dead men's property was found in their
possession. The fourth band of emigrants — the party of three
who preceded us by a few days in the journey across
the mountains, and descended the Fraser in canoes
under the guidance of the two old Shushwaps from
The Cache — reached Fort George without any serious
misadventure. •
Whilst taking our ease at Kamloops it may be weU
to consider the question of the practicability of a road
across the mountains by the Yellow Head, or Leather
Pass. The necessity for opening a communication
between the eastern and western sides of the Rocky
Mountains, and the advantages of a route across the
continent which passes through British territory,
will, we apprehend, appear clearly enough upon a
more intimate acquaintance with the resources and
requirements of British Columbia. At present we
wish merely to show that a road might be constructed
by the Yellow Head Pass without any great diffi
culty, and that this route is in many respects superior
to others hitherto more generally known. In the first

A ROAD BY THE LEATHER PASS. 329
place, then, we may safely state that, with the excep
tion of one or two rocky and precipitous bluffs — few
and trifling obstructions, compared with those which
have been so successfully overcome in making the
road along the Fraser — there are no engineering
difficulties of any importance. From the Red River
Settlement to Edmonton, about 950 miles, the road
lies through a fertile and park-like country, and an
exceUent cart traU afready exists. From Edmonton
to Jasper House, a distance of about 400 mUes, the
surface is slightly undulating, the lower ground
universally swampy, and everywhere covered with
thick forest. There is Httle doubt that a better
trad than the one at present used might be found
for this portion of the way, by keeping to the higher
ground, for the pioneers of the Hudson's Bay
Company sought the swamps in the first instance,
as offering fewer impediments to their progress,
on account of their being less heavily timbered.
From Jasper House to Tete Jaune Cache — the
pass through the main ridge of the Rocky Moun
tains, about 100 or 120 miles in length — a wide
break in the chain, running nearly east and west,
offers a natural roadway, unobstructed except by
timber. The rivers, with the exception of the Atha
basca and the Fraser, are small and fordable; even at
their highest. The ascent to the height of land is
very gradual, and, indeed, hardly perceptible ; the
level only 3,760 feet above the sea; (]) and the
(l) According to the observations of Dr. Rae, with small aneroid
barometer.

330 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
descent on the western slope, although more
rapid, is neither steep nor difficult. From The Cache
the road might be carried in almost a straight line
to Richfield, in Cariboo, lying nearly due west ; the
western extremity of the pass, Tete Jaune Cache,
being in latitude 52 deg. 58 min., Q) and Richfield
in latitude 53 deg. 3 min. 9 sec. (2) The re
gion to be traversed is mountainous and densely
wooded, but the distance is not more than ninety
miles, according to the recent calculation of Dr.
Rae, which agrees with the six days' journey, the
estimate given us by the Shushwaps of The
Cache ; and a road has already been made from
the Mouth of QuesneUe, on the Fraser, to Rich
field, through simdar country. This would, there
fore, complete the line of communication through
Cariboo to Victoria. An easier route might, perhaps,
be found by following the Canoe River, which is
situate about twenty mUes south of The Cache,.
to its source in the Cariboo district, but nothing
is known of the country between Tete Jaune Cache
and Cariboo, beyond the general view of mountain
and forest seen from Richfield and The Cache. A
third Hne offers itself by following the North Thomp
son to the point where the Wentworth River enters it,
about eighty mUes north of Kamloops. This stream,
the Shushwaps informed us, came from the Cariboo
Lake, and passed through a tolerably open region.
(') Dr. Rae.
(s) Lieut. Palmer, R.E.

ADVANTAGES OF THE LEATHER PASS. 331
And lastly, a road could be made down the valley of
the Thompson to Kamloops, from whence the Shush
wap, Okanagan, and Kootanie districts — where dig
gings of the richest kind have lately been discovered —
and the road on the Fraser, are easily accessible.
From The Cache to within eighty miles of Kamloops
the only way lies through a succession of narrow
gorges, shut in on each side by lofty and inaccessible
mountains. The whole of this is obstructed by
growing and faUen timber, generaUy of the largest
size; but the fact of our success in bringing our
horses through without any previous track being cut
open, proves sufficiently that there are no serious ob
stacles in the way of an engineer. There are no
great ascents or descents, and no bluffs of solid rock
occur untU the last forty mUes, where the country is
otherwise open and unobstructed. The flooding of
the river by the melted snows from the mountains
does not interfere with the passage along the valley,
for we traversed it at the season when the waters are
at the highest. The most serious difficulty to the
adoption of a route by Jasper House would be the
want of pasturage for cattle. The patches of open
are few on the eastern side, and although larger
and more numerous within the mountains, on the
western side the forest is unbroken for above a
hundred mUes.
Of the passes to the south, all, with the exception
of the VermUion Pass, Q) descend abruptly on the west
(:) See reports of Captain Palliser's expedition, published in the
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1860.

332 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
through rugged and difficult country. The VermiHon
Pass, which is the lowest, is 4,944 feet above the
level of the sea, or above 1,000 feet higher than the
Leather Pass ; and although Dr. Hector states (:)
that a road might be constructed across it without
material difficulty, it is open to the same objection
as the rest, that it communicates with the valley of
the Columbia, far to the south of the gold regions
of Cariboo, passes through the battle-ground of the
Crees and Blackfeet, and is in unsafe proximity
to the American frontier.
The principal advantages to be urged in favour of
the southern passes, appear to be that they com
municate with more open country on either side,
that pasturage is plentiful along the road, and
that from their lower latitude they are liable to be
blocked up by snow for a somewhat shorter period.
Against these the claims of the route by Jasper
House may be briefly summed up as follows : — First,
it offers the most direct Hne from Canada to Cariboo,
communicating with the road on the Fraser by the
shortest route, since Tete Jaune Cache is in lati
tude 52 deg, 58 min., Richfield Cariboo in latitude
53 deg. 3 min. 9 sec. (3) Secondly, it is the only
one which wUl afford easy communication with all
the gold districts of British Columbia. Thirdly,
it passes entirely through a country inhabited only
by peaceable and friendly Indians. Fourthly, it is
(>) Journal of Royal Geographical Society for 1860 ; Dr. Hector's
Report. (2) From the observations of Dr. Rae.

TESTIMONY OF DR. RAE. 333
the easiest, lying only 3,760 feet above the sea, (x)
with a gradual slope on either side; and lastly,
it lies four degrees north of the American frontier.
These considerations will, we imagine, cause it to
be eventually selected as the British highway to the
Pacific ; and it is satisfactory to be able to state
that Dr. Rae, who went out in the spring of 1864 to
discover the most suitable route for the telegraph
hne which the Hudson's Bay Company propose to
carry across the continent, decided upon taking it by
the Yellow Head Pass, which he surveyed as far as
Tete Jaune Cache. We are permitted to remark
that his observations fully bear out the conclusion
that there are no serious-obstacles to the formation
of a road by this route from the fertile belt of the
Saskatchewan to British Columbia, as far as he in
vestigated it, viz., from Red River to The Cache.
After a day or two, Mr. McKay returned, and
very kindly engaged to find us horses and accom
pany us as far as Yale, the head of navigation on
the Fraser, if we would remain at Kamloops a few
days longer. Mr. O'B., however, started at once
for Victoria, eager to enjoy the pleasures of a higher
civilisation there. We must confess to a certain
feehng of regret at this, the first breaking up of
the strange company who had shared so many
adventures together ; and Mr. O'B. told us he bore
no ill-will, and would forgive and forget all his
sufferings on the journey. There were houses every
six or seven mUes along the road from this point,
Q) From the observations of Dr. Rae.

334 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and he set out, pack on back, without much fear
of danger before him. Yet, had he known that
two men who had murdered another coming down
from the mines, were lurking in the neighbourhood,
he would have been very unhappy. One of these
men was taken, a few days afterwards, in the Bona
parte VaUey; the other was supposed to have crossed
the Thompson, and to be lying concealed near
Kamloops. Our horses were so weak that we left them at
Old St. Paul's to recruit for a few days, and then
brought them across the river. This was nearly
fatal to poor Bucephalus, who was too exhausted to
swim, and narrowly escaped drowning in the
passage. They soon improved on the rich bunch-
grass, and we made a present of them to The
Assiniboine, for his use in re-crossing by the
Kootanie Pass next spring.
Numbers of Shushwaps frequented Kamloops,
and their love of finery made them very conspicuous
amongst the roughly-dressed miners. The men
delighted in scarlet leggings, red sashes, and bright-
coloured ribbons in their caps ; the women affected
the gaudiest skirts, and the most vivid-coloured
handkerchiefs on their heads. They are beginning
to appreciate the advantages of agriculture, and
grow potatoes with great success ; are keen traders,
thoroughly acquainted with the value of money, and
by their labour alone as packmen, the miners were
suppHed with necessaries for a long time, .until a
mule trail was cut open. But although of superior

THE SHUSHWAPS OF KAMLOOPS. 335
industry to the Indians of the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains, they compare very disadvan-
tageously with them in physique and intelligence,
and presented many points of difference from their
relations we met at The Cache. They are of smaller
stature and less powerful build than the former;
their faces are broader and rounder; the cheek
bones higher ; the nose smaller, less prominent, and
the nostrds more ddated. Their complexion is
darker, and of a more muddy, coppery hue than that
of the true Red Indian, and their general appearance
so strange to our eyes when we first encountered
a party of them on our way down the North Thomp
son, that we never suspected they were Indians,
but took them for Mexicans, or some immigrants
from the east. (*) They are also talkative and mer
curial, and exhibit none of the dignity and conscious
power which marks the Red Indian of the plains.
The tradition of the origin of their tribes, existing
amongst some of the Indians of British Columbia,
appears to be a curious confusion of the Bible histories
taught them by the Romish priests, who have been
estabhshed amongst them for upwards of a century.
For the foUowing version we are indebted to Mr.
GreviUe Mathew, registrar of the colony : — A race
(') There is a most striking difference, however, between the
general physique and features of the two sexes amongst the true
Red Indians. The men are tall, and their features bold and pro
minent, the nose being generally Roman. The women are generally
rather short, their faces rounder, and the nose squat. This
difference was well shown in the case of The Assiniboine and his
wife, of whom excellent portraits are given in the Frontispiece.

336 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
of men existed upon the earth at the time when a
great flood came. It rained day and night week
after week. The waters rose rapidly, so that all
were drowned except one man. He made haste
to reach higher ground, and ascended a lofty
hill. Still it rained ceaselessly, the waters covered
the face of the land, and followed this last Indian
relentlessly as he retreated higher and higher up the
mountain side. At length he gained the very
summit, and as he sat and watched, the pursuing
floods continued to approach. In hopeless despair
he prayed to the Great Spirit, who responded to
his prayer by changing the lower half of his body
into stone, so that, when the advancing waters
surged up to him, he remained unmoved. They
rose to his waist, and then the rains ceased and the
floods began to subside. Although deHghted with
his unexpected escape, the solitary Indian was
oppressed with dismay by the reflection that he
was the only survivor, and in his distress again
prayed to the Great Spirit to grant him a " Kloot-
cheman," or squaw. He then feU asleep, and after
a time awaking, found his lower limbs restored to
flesh and bone, and a beautiful " Klootcheman" by
his side. From this pair sprang the Indian tribes
in British Columbia. This is a striking instance of
a fusion of the story of the creation with that of
the deluge ; originally derived, no doubt, from the
early Romish missionaries, but by lapse of time
having passed into a tradition of the tribes, and
suggests a source of error affecting philology.

WE LEAVE KAMLOOPS. 337
A fearful mortality has prevailed amongst them
since the advent of the whites, 300 having died in
the neighbourhood of Kamloops alone from small
pox the previous year. Their curious custom of
leaving their dead unburied, laid out in the open
air, with aU their property around them, we
observed on our journey to Kamloops, when, as
the reader may remember, we discovered many
victims to the ravages of the pestdence. Other
diseases have been almost equally fatal, and before
many years, the once numerous natives of this
country, although apparently easily susceptible of a
certain civUisation, wiU have diminished to a very
small company.
On the 8th of September we left Kamloops with
Mr. McKay, and accompanied by Mr. and Mrs.
Assiniboine, the boy, and another Indian. We had
determined to take our friends down to Victoria,
for, although The Assiniboine had once visited the
Red River Settlement, the woman and boy had never
seen anything more Hke a town than a Hudson's
Bay Post. We crossed the Thompson at the foot
of Kamloops Lake, which is about twelve mUes
long and not more than half a mUe in breadth, and
surrounded by fine rocky hiUs; then, leaving the
river, we kept on to the valley of the Bonaparte,
where we struck the road from Cariboo to Yale,
as yet only partiaUy completed. The Assiniboine
and his wife were both greatly astonished at the
Queen's highway, but the boy became quite excited,
exclaiming, whenever any person appeared in sight,
w

338 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
"Aiwarkaken! mina quatuck !" (By Jove ! there's
another feUow !) But when we encountered a real
swell of the neighbourhood, driving a "buggy"
and pair, he was delighted beyond expression. We
now followed the valley of the Bonaparte untU it
joins that of the Thompson, viewing with wonder
the curious terraces which strike the eye of a
stranger so oddly, and give such a peculiar charac
ter to the scenery of the Thompson and the Fraser.
We first observed them on the North Thompson,
some thirty or forty mUes above Kamloops, and they
are invariably present aU along the main river until its
junction with the Fraser at Lytton. On the Fraser
they stretch from a little north of Alexandria to
the Canons above Yale, a distance of above 300 mUes.
These terraces — or benches, as they are caUed in this
.district — are perfectly level, and of exactly the same
height on each side of the river. They differ from
the so-caUed "parallel roads" of Glenroy in their
enormous extent, being vast plains as compared
with the mere ledges of the Scottish terraces, and
are also free from the enatic boulders which mark
the latter. In most places there are three tiers,
each tier corresponding with a similar one on
the opposite side of the vaUey. The lowest of
the three, where the vaUey expands, presents a
perfectly flat surface of often many mUes ' in
extent, raised some forty or fifty feet above
the level of the river bank, with a sloping front,
resembling the face of a railway embankment.
Higher still, the second tier is generally cut out of

TERRACES OF THE THOMPSON AND FRASER. 339
the mountain side, seldom more than a few acres
in extent, and raised sixty or seventy feet above
the lower one; whUe, marked at an inaccessible
height along the face of the bluffs which run down
to the river, and probably 400 or 500 feet above it,
is the third tier. These "benches" are quite
uniform, and of even surface, entirely free from the
great boulders so numerous in the present bed of
the river, being composed of shale, sand, and gravel,
the detritus of the neighbouring mountains. They
are clothed with bunch-grass and wild sage, while
here and there a few scattered pines relieve the
yellow bareness so characteristic of the district.
SimUar terraces were noticed by Dr. Hector on the
Athabasca, Kootanie, and Columbia Rivers, and they
have been also observed on some rivers in California
and Mexico ; but in none of these instances do they
appear comparable in extent and regularity with
those of the Thompson and Fraser. It is worthy of
remark that in nearly every instance where these
terraces have been found, in various countries, they
occur in three successive tiers, as in these of
British Columbia; which would seem to mark as
many separate epochs when important geological
disturbances took place.
Gold is found in all these benches on the Fraser
in the state of the finest "flour gold," but not in
sufficient quantities to satisfy the miner when the
richer diggings of Cariboo outrun all competition.
There seems to be some unexplained connection
between these terraces and the celebrated " bunch-
w 2

340 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
grass," for where the terraces commence on the
north, the bunch-grass is also first found, and both
end together above Yale. The rolling country
between the two rivers is indeed clothed with this
grass, but it does not extend beyond the northern
limit of the terraces. In the valley of the Columbia,
to the south-west, it grows with great luxuriance, and
here again the curious terraces are found. The
probable explanation of this circumstance is that the
pecuHar kind of soil formed by the disintegration of
the Hmestone, or soft volcanic rocks, found in this
district, is necessary to the growth of this peculiar
grass. Soon after we again reached the Thompson, we
came to a place where a portion of the road was
not yet made, and led our horses over high rocky
bluffs, which at first sight appeared completely to
bar all passage. The traU was a mere ledge
of rock of a few inches in width, and conquered
the precipitous ascent by a succession of windings
and zig-zags. The path was so narrow that it was
quite impossible for horses to pass one another, and
as the river rushes hundreds of feet immediately
below, and even a shp would be certainly fatal, it
is necessary to ascertain that the road is clear
before venturing over the dangerous precipices.
Along this part of the road we met a number
of Chinamen at work levelling the road, and their
strange faces, large-brimmed hats, and pig-tads
caused intense amusement to our unsophisticated
Assiniboines. Further down a party of engineers

THE DROWNED MURDERER. 341
were engaged in blasting the rock where the road
was to pass round the face of a bluff, and eight
or ten miles more brought us to the point where
the road crosses to the eastern bank of the Thomp
son, At this place, called Cook's Ferry, we stayed
a night, and before we started in the morning some
Indians came in with the news that they had found
a dead body stranded on the shallows close by.
We went to look at it with Mr. McKay, and from
certain marks tattooed upon the arm, and a com
plete correspondence with the published description,
we were satisfied that it was the body of the
murderer who had so long escaped pursuit. The
man had probably attempted to swim across the
river in the night-time, and been drowned in the
rapids. Thus the only two men who had ever
attempted highway robbery in this colony — as
far as we could ascertain — failed to escape. The
extraordinary rarity of crimes of violence in British
Columbia is owing, we believe, in great measure,
to the vigorous administration of the late Governor,
Sir James Douglas, and the stern justice meted
out by Mr. Justice Begbie ; but also in part, no
doubt, to the nature of the country. Shut in on
every side by impassable mountain barriers, the
few outlets which exist are easUy watched, and the
criminal has small chance of ultimate escape.
From Cook's Ferry the road continues to foUow
the eastern bank of the Thompson to its junction
with the Fraser at Lytton — twenty-three miles ; it
is then continued along the same side of the Fraser

342 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE Br" LAND.
for thirty-eight mdes, or within thirteen miles of
Yale, where it crosses the river by a beautiful sus
pension bridge. The road from Cook's Ferry to
Yale, especially the part below Lytton, is probably
the most wonderful in the world. Cut out of the
mountain-side of the gorge, it foUows the hiUs as
they recede in " gulches," or advance in bold, upright
bluffs, in constant windings, Hke an eternal letter S.
The curves of ascent and descent are as sinuous as
the lateral ; the road at one time running down, by a
series of rapid turns, to the very bottom of the
valley, and then rising as quickly to pass the face
of some protruding bluff, apparently a complete
barrier to aU advance, but past which it creeps,
looking from below like a mere Hne scratched on
the round front, 500 or 600 feet above the river.
At these points the road is partly blasted out of
the solid granite rock, and the width increased by
beams of rough pine, which project over the pre
cipice ; but it is yet too narrow for vehicles to pass
each other, except at certain points. There is, of
course, no protecting wall ; the road overhangs the
precipice, and nothing is to be seen supporting
the platform on which you stand — a terrible place
to drive along, as we afterwards found. The road
has been made, in this skilful and laborious manner,
from where it first strikes the Thompson to Yale,
a distance of nearly 100 mdes.
The trail formerly ran up many hundred feet
higher, the barrier bluffs being passed by platforms
slung by the Indians from the top of the chff by

THE OLD TRAIL ALONG THE FRASER. 343
cords of bark and deer-skin. These consisted of
a single long pole, supported by a cross-pole at
each end, the points of which rested against the
face of the precipice. There was nothing to lay
hold of, and a slip or hasty step, as the pas
senger walked along the rail embracing the face of
the rock, would cause the pole to swing away,
and hurl the incautious climber into the abyss
below. -
The Bishop of Columbia, in his Journal, gives
a very graphic description of his journey along the
old trad, in which he compares his position to a
fly upon the face of a perpendicular wall, in this
case between 2,000 and 3,000 feet high. Many a
miner lost his life at Jackass Mountain and Nica
ragua SHde — places of this kind. There was at
this time no other way to the mines except a
mule trail, Httle less difficult, passing high over
the mountain tops, and only available for a short
time in summer, on account of the snow. Supplies
were carried to the mines on the backs of the
miners themselves, or packed on Indians, who
carried from 100 to 150 pounds over this perdous
path. On our way we met many Indians still com
peting with the mule-trains. Some of the men
were loaded with 150 pounds, supporting them by a
strap across the forehead ; the women carried 50 or
100 pounds ; and one squaw we met had on her back
a fifty-pound sack of flour, on that a box of candles,
and on the top of the box a child. They seemed

344 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
very jolly and happy under their heavy labour,
and never faded to salute us with a friendly smile
and "Klahowya?" or "How do you do?" The
melody of their voices and soft intonation was
most pleasing, overcoming all the roughness and
uncouthness of the vile Chinook jargon, t1)
Between Lytton and Yale He most of the bars,
or sandbanks, which yielded such an extraordinary
amount of gold when first discovered. They are
now deserted, except by a few Chinamen, who
make from one to ten dollars a day. As we
descended the Fraser, the vegetation began to
change. The terraces disappeared, and the flat
stretches, covered only with bunch-grass and scat
tered yeUow pine, gave place to an irregular for
mation and a thicker growth of white pine, with
here and there a smaU birch, and a plentiful under
growth of deciduous shrubs.
On our way we passed many Indians engaged in
salmon fishing, which they practise in a very peculiar
manner. They select some point in the fierce rapids
where a quiet eddy forms under the lee of a project
ing rock. Over the rock they sling a Httle platform
of poles, within a convenient distance of the surface
of the water, and from this position grope untiringly
O Chinook is a jargon which was invented by the Hudson's Bay
Company for the purpose of facilitating communication with the
different Indian tribes. These were so numerous, and their lan
guages so various, that the traders found it impossible to learn them1
all, and adopted the device of a judicious mixture of EngHsh, French,
Russian, and several Indian tongues, which has a very limited voca
bulary ; but which, by the help of signs, is readily understood by all
the natives, and serves as a common language.

THE CANONS ABOVE YALE. 345
in the eddy with a kind of oval landing net. The
salmon, wearied by their exertions in overcoming
the torrent, rest for a time in the little eddy before
making the next attempt to mount the rapid, and are
taken in hundreds by these clever fishermen. Here
and there were Indian graves adorned with numerous
flags ; and in many instances carved images, nearly
the size of Hfe, and elaborately painted, were placed
around. The dead man's gun and blankets, with
most of his other property, were generally suspended
to poles about the grave. Occasionally we passed
an Indian winter store for fish — a rough box, slung
in a tree high out of reach. Some tribes bury their
dead in the same manner.
About fifteen miles above Yale, the gorge
through which the Fraser runs, as it bursts through
the Cascade Range, becomes very narrow, and the
river flows in a succession of terrific rapids, called
the Canons — or canyons, as the word is pronounced —
for the remaining distance. The mountains on
each side, 3,000 or 4,000 feet high, seem almost
to meet overhead, peak after peak rising in close
proximity. The Fraser, rarely anything but a
rocky rapid in any part of its course, here goes
utterly mad, and foams and rages down the
narrow and falling channel at the rate of twenty
mdes an hour. The volume of water which passes
through this outlet, here not more than forty yards
in width, wUl be more readily conceived when it
is stated that the Fraser has already collected the
waters of over 800 miles, and amongst other rivers

346 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
receives the Thompson, of almost equal size with
itself. Several hundred miles above, each of these
rivers expands into a broad and deep stream, more
than a quarter of a mile in width; yet at the
Canons the vast accumulation is confined in a
channel of less than fifty yards wide. Huge rocks
stand up in the middle of the stream in several
places, the waters escaping by a constricted passage
on either side.
The mass of the Cascade Range is grey granite,
and the sides of the chasm show beautiful sections
of the rock, plaided with protruding seams of white
quartz, the harder rock having been worn away by
the action of the water, which the soft quartz seems
to have resisted. In many cases the opposite waUs
of the chasm correspond in a most remarkable
manner, so that they appear as if they would fit
accurately if placed in apposition, suggesting forcibly
that they had been portions of the same solid mass
violently rent asunder. As we looked on this and
wondered, an explanation of the formation of the
terraces occurred to our minds. At one time the
valleys of the Thompson and Fraser were occupied
by a succession of lakes, the Cascade Range being
the barrier which dammed in the enormous volume
of water, and the highest tier of terraces marking
the level to which it rose. The tops only of the
lower mountains appeared at this time as rounded
islands above the surface. By some means — perhaps
some grand convulsion of Nature — the embankment
of this huge reservoir broke down, the waters par-

««& 

YALE. 347
tially escaped, and the lakes were drained down to
the level of the middle tier of benches. Twice more
must a simdar catastrophe have occurred before the
waters were lowered into their present narrow and
rocky channel. Each of these accidents must have
been separated from the preceding one by an im
mense lapse of time, during which the enormous
quantity of detritus accumulated to form the exten
sive plateaux which have been described.
We arrived at Yale about four o'clock in the
afternoon, and immediately ordered the best dinner
they could give us at the Colonial Hotel. The house
was kept by a Frenchman, who excelled himself on
this occasion, and provided a meal which to us, who
had not eaten anything deserving the name of a
dinner for at least eighteen months, appeared perfec
tion. The champagne, however, and sundry drinks
with fraternising miners, caused us to wake with
most tremendous headaches next morning. Some of
the visitors to the bar amused us greatly. One tall
Yankee, considerably intoxicated, was possessed with
the idea that he was Lord Nelson, and associating
the great admiral in some way with cucumbers, ate
several in succession, to prove his identity.
The Httle town of Yale is merely a single row of
houses facing the river, which, having just escaped
through the Canons, here sweeps to the west, a broad
and noble river. The town is built on a small flat,
backed on the north by lofty hUls, and looking
down the widening valley to the south, where the
receding mountains still tower up grand and high.

348 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
The situation is exceedingly picturesque, and the
clean, white, wooden buildings were as gay with flags
as any Yankee could desire. Gold may be obtained
in the street of Yale, and a couple of Indians were
working with a "rocker" opposite the Hotel when
we were there.
The next morning we bade good-bye to our kind
friend, Mr. McKay, and embarked on the steamer
Reliance for New Westminster. The river expands
rapidly below Yale, flowing between low, richly-
wooded banks. On the way we passed Hope and
Langley, old stations of the Hudson's Bay Company.
The site of the former is the most beautiful in
British Columbia — a wooded level shut in by an
amphitheatre of lofty mountains — Yale upon a
grander scale. Before the discovery of the Cariboo
mines, it was a place of considerable importance, but
has now " caved in," and become desolate. Soon
after dark, we saw the lights of New Westminster
before us, and in the course of half an hour were
comfortably established at the Colonial Hotel.
The city of New Westminster, the capital of
British Columbia, stands in a commanding position,
on ground graduaUy rising from the river, which is
here three-quarters of a mUe broad. The town has
been beautifully laid out by Col. Moody, R.E., the
late Commissioner of Lands and Works, and several
streets of good wooden houses already exist.
The great drawback to its situation is the dense
forest of timber of the largest size by which it is
shut in. The little clearing which has been already

MR. o'b. turns up again. 349
done has been effected with great labour by the help
of the engineers quartered there for several years ;
but, although the land is fertde enough, the expense
of clearing it is so heavy that but little farming has
been carried out. The place is still unsightly, from
the stumps of trees sticking up on every side. The
river is navigable to this point for vessels drawing
eighteen or twenty feet of water, and, should direct
communication be estabhshed with England, it may
eventually rival Victoria. As yet, however, it is
completely eclipsed by that more favoured city.
Staying only one night in New Westminster,
we took our passages on board the Enterprise for
Victoria, Vancouver Island, on the 19th of Septem
ber. We were presently surprised by encountering
Mr. O'B., who had come by way of Lilloet and
Douglas. He was wonderfully altered since we
parted from him a week before. He, Hke ourselves,
had become somewhat corpulent, and had quite
regained his spirits, and the loquacity which had
flagged so notably during our journey through the
forest. On entering the Gulf of Georgia, Mount Baker,
a magnificent snow-clad peak, about 10,700 feet
in height, comes into view in the east, and the
thousand islands of the gulf, rocky or richly wooded,
offer a succession of beauties which render this
voyage to Victoria one of the most charming in the
world. We reached our destination about dark,
and immediately betook ourselves to the Hotel de
France. The proprietor, however, mistrusting our

350 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
leather shirts, and total want of luggage, declared
he had no room, and we moved off disconsolate.
Before we got far, a waiter came running after us to
say it was aU a mistake, and requested us to go back,
having, no doubt, discovered that we were respect
able, although at first sight our appearance was
unpromising. But we turned a deaf ear, and con
tinued on our way to the St. George, where we
found capital accommodation, and having properly
refreshed ourselves, took the rough hint we had
received, and betook ourselves to the nearest tador,
to obtain more civilised attire.

CHAPTER XVIII.
Victoria— The Rush there from California— Contrast to San Francisco
under Similar Circumstances— The Assiniboines see the Wonders
of Victoria— Start for Cariboo— Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine are
Reconciled— The Former re-establishes his Faith— Farewell to the
Assiniboine Family— Salmon in Harrison River— The Lakes-
Mr. O'B.'s Triumph— Lilloet— Miners' Slang— The "Stage" to
Soda Creek— Johnny the Driver — Pavilion Mountain— The Rattle
snake Grade — The Chasm— Wayside Houses on the Road to the
Mines — We meet a Fortunate Miner— The Farming Land of the
Colony — The Steamer — Frequent Cocktails — The Mouth of
Quesnelle— The Trail to William's Creek— A Hard Journey-
Dead Horses — Cameron Town, William's Creek.
Victoria is very beautifuUy situated on the shores of
a small rocky bay — an indentation in the promontory
which is formed by the sweeping round of the sea
into the land-locked harbour of Esquimalt. The site
was originally chosen by Sir James (then Mr.)
Douglas, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company's
territories west of the Rocky Mountains, for the
establishment of head-quarters, in place of Fort
Vancouver, when Oregon passed into the possession
of the United States in the year 1844. Fourteen
years afterwards, when the news of the discovery of
gold on the Fraser caused such excitement in Cali
fornia, the only buildings were the Company's Fort,
and one or two houses inhabited by their employes.
In the course of a few weeks 30,000 people were
collected there, waiting for the flooded Fraser to
subside, and allow them to proceed to the diggings.

352 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Amongst this immense assemblage of people — the
majority of them the most desperate and lawless of
the Californian rowdies — Governor Douglas, without
the aid of a single soldier or regular police-force,
preserved an order and security which contrasted
most forcibly with the state of things in San Francisco
and Sacramento under simdar circumstances. The
city wore a very thriving aspect when we visited it,
and could already boast of several streets. The
whole traffic to and from British Columbia passing
through it, has rapidly enriched its merchants,
and handsome brick stores are fast replacing the
original wooden buddings.
We had by no means rehnquished our intention
of visiting Cariboo, although we had faded to reach
it by the direct route we had originally projected.
At Victoria we were more than 500 mdes distant ;
winter was fast approaching, and there was therefore
no time to be lost in setting out. We stole a day or
two, however, to introduce the friends we deHghted
to honour — Mr. and Mrs. Assiniboine, and their
son — to the wonders of civihsation to be found
in Victoria. To this end, we clothed them in
gorgeous apparel, seated them in a " buggy " drawn
by a pair of fast-trotting horses, and mounting the
box ourselves, drove them in state to Esquimalt.
They sat inside with great gravity, occasionaUy
remarking on the difference between bowhng
along a capital road at the rate we were going,
and advancing only two or three mdes a day, by
hard labour, through the forest. Having shown

START FOR CARIBOO. 353
them a live Admiral, and a 100-po under Arm
strong on board H.M.S.S. Sutlej, and completed
the round of sights by showing them the principal
stores and the theatres, we left The Assiniboine
to take notes of what he had seen in a diary of
hieroglyphics, which he had instituted for the
record of the wonders of Victoria.
On the 29th of September we put a pair of socks,
a flannel shirt, and toothbrush apiece into our blan
kets, rolling them into a pack, miners' fashion, in
serted our legs into huge jack boots, " recommended
for the mines," and went on board the steamer Otter,
for New Westminster. The Assiniboine family ac
companied us on their way back to Kamloops, where
they were to winter, intending to re-cross the moun
tains in the spring by the Kootanie Pass. They
were rather reluctant to leave their new-found
pleasures behind them, having been especially fasci
nated by the baUet, and the delicacies provided for
them by the pastry-cook. Mr. O'B. remained in Vic
toria, re-establishing, under the worthy clergymen
of that city, the faith which had been staggered
by his over-dose of Paley. He had signalised his
return to Christianity by shaking hands with his
ancient enemy, The Assiniboine, and the two buried
their former animosities for ever ; for they are little
likely to meet again. At New Westminster we
bade good-bye to the Assiniboine famdy, who went
forward to Yale, whilst we took steamer by the
Harrison River to Douglas, in order to see the
rival route by the Lakes and LiUoet. In spite

354 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
of The Assiniboine's cool confession that it had been
his design at first to desert us at Jasper House,
when he had solemnly promised to go through to
the end, he had served us so weU, and led us so ably
in a time of doubt and hardship, that we were sin
cerely sorry to part with him and his famdy. They.
sailed up the Fraser, and we stood watching them
out of sight, wondering whether any of the odd
chances of life would ever bring us across them
again. We heard before leaving Victoria that, on
his arrival at Kamloops, the man was employed as a
shepherd by Mr. McKay, and expected to return to
Fort Pitt in the following year, with a goodly string
of horses. In the shallows of the Harrison River we saw
many thousands of spent salmon wrigghng and flop
ping about, half-stranded, and pursued by a number
of Indians, who were engaged in spearing them.
Passing through Douglas and Pemberton by the lakes
and portages between them, we struck the Fraser
again at LiUoet, about 265 miles from New West
minster, and 300 from Victoria. The scenery on
this route, especially on Lakes Anderson and Seton,
is exceedingly wdd and grand. Mountains rise
abruptly from the shores of the lakes on each side,
steep, rugged, and barren ; and when we saw them
their beauty was increased by the brilliant tints of
the American autumn. At various places on our
way to Lilloet we heard of our friend Mr. O'B.,
who had foUowed this route on his journey down
from Kamloops, instead of the one by Yale. He had

mr. o'b.'s triumph. 355
found favour with every one, for he knew the history,
famdy, friends, property, and expectations of each,
and the latest news of the neighbourhood from
which they came. At a certain town on the road, a
number of new-found friends and admirers, with
whom he was spending a social evening, observing
the astonishing facility with which he imbibed his
native whisky, determined to see him under the
table, and plied him vigorously. But if their heads
were hard, Mr. O'B.'s was harder, and although he
had not tasted any intoxicating liquor for two years,
and drank glass for glass with his entertainers with
out shirking, he proved invincible. One after another
the conspirators subsided helpless on the floor, while
Mr. O'B. remained sitting, smiling and triumphant,
and calmly continued to smoke his pipe, superior
and alone !
The town of Ldloet is situated on a grand plateau,
one of the terraces of the Fraser, which are here
more than ordinarUy extensive and weU-marked.
The place was full of miners, on their way down to
Victoria for the winter. Drinking and card-playing
went on until long after midnight, amid a constant
string of oaths and miners' slang. Our ears became
familiarised with such phrases as "bully for you,"
"caved in," "played out," "you bet," "you bet
your Hfe," "your bottom dollar" or "your gum-
boots " on it, " on the make," " on the sell," " a big
strike," " can't get a show," " hit a streak," and so
on. We slept in a double-bedded room, and towards
morning there was a tremendous crash, and Milton
x 2

356 the north-west passage by land.
heard an angry growling proceeding from Cheadle,
whose bed had come down with a run. At day
break we were aroused by a number of fellows out
side our door laughing, and shouting, " Who is this
 fellow putting on frills ?" In a weak and absent
moment Cheadle had mechanically put his boots
outside the door, as if expecting them to be cleaned,
and this had properly excited their derision.
We now abandoned the idea of traveUing forward
on horseback, for we were assured by several persons
who had just arrived from Cariboo that it would be
impossible to take horses into Wdliam's Creek on
account of the snow, which had begun to fall before
they left the mines. We therefore took our places in
the " stage " running from Lilloet to Soda Creek on
the Fraser, 175 miles distant. A steamer pHes be
tween the Creek and the Mouth of QuesneUe, a
distance of sixty mdes, and from thence a pack trad
runs to Richfield, in Wdliam's Creek, the centre of
the Cariboo mines. The " stage " was a light open
wagon, and besides ourselves and one other pas
senger, carried nearly a ton of freight. But we
started with a team of five horses, two wheelers and
three leaders, and for the first day went along
famously. "Johnny," the driver, was a capital whip,
and quite a character. He was a regular Yankee,
and his Californian hat of hard felt, with a low
steeple crown, and immensely broad brim, gave him
a ludicrous appearance in our eyes. He was like all
his race, a most unquiet spirit, always engaged in
talking to us or the horses, chewing, spitting,

THE "UATTLJSSNAKK GRADE." (See page 356.)
Piivilluii Mountain, British Columbia; Altitude, 4,000 feet.

PAVILLON MOUNTAIN. 357
smoking, and drinking, and at the last he was espe
cially great ; not a house did he pass without two or
three drinks with all comers. But in justice to
Johnny, who was a very good fellow in his way, it
must be stated that he assured us that he was gene
rally a " total abstainer," but occasionally drank for
a change, and then " went in for liquor bald-headed."
He was in the latter phase during our brief acquaint
ance. The road, weU made and smooth, and in many
places eighteen feet wide, crosses the Fraser by a
ferry a short distance beyond Lilloet, and then winds
along steep hill-sides up the valley of the Fraser to
the north for twenty miles. At Pavilion Valley it
turns to the north-east, to the foot of Pavilion
Mountain, where it ascends 1,500 feet by a rapid
zigzag. Here our team, now reduced to four, were
quite unequal to the task before them, and we clam
bered up the steep on foot. From the top we had a
good view to the south-east, and the curious forma
tion of the hUl-side opposite attracted our attention.
Near the top of the hill was a hollow, and the surface
below a succession of waving swells, growing larger
and larger towards the bottom. It seemed as if
the hollow was an extinct crater, from which the
molten lava had long ago flowed down in a billowy
stream, and as if this, arrested at the instant of its
passage, had now become the grass-grown slope
before us. We had no time to go across and
examine it carefully, but continued our way over
the grassy table-land on the top of Pavilion Moun-

QK

58 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
tain, for six or eight miles. The road then went
up rapidly, and brought us to the top of the famous
" Rattlesnake Grade." We found ourselves on the
brink of a precipitous descent of 2,000 feet, and in
full view below saw the road foUowing the con
figuration of the hdl, with the numberless windings
and zigzags which had given rise to its name. Cut
out of the mountain side, and resting for several feet
of its width on overhanging beams, it was not broad
enough to allow two vehicles to pass in safety,
except at the points of the turns, nor was there any
railing to guard the edge of the precipice.
Every one immediately volunteered to ease the
poor horses by walking down, but Johnny negatived
the proposition at once, and drove us down at a
furious rate, the heavily-laden wagon swinging
round the sharp turns in a most unpleasant manner.
The giving way of the break, or of a wheel, or the
pole, must have been fatal ; but all held together, as
of course it was likely to do, and we reached the
bottom safely.
After leaving Clinton, where the road from Yale
comes in, the road began to ascend, and on the right
we passed an extraordinary chasm. Commencing by
a gradual depression at the northern end, it became
a deep fissure in the rocks about a quarter of a mde
in length, ending abruptly in the valley to the south.
The depth of the gulf is some 400 or 500 feet,
and its width about the same. The sides of the
chasm were perpendicular and smooth, as if the
rocks had been split asunder. The road still went

»:

-¦ill 'lii' mi IB ";
fe m

HtBlii = ..... •,!'

HI

A WAY-SIDE HOUSE. — AERIVAL OF MlKEliS.

(.See imnr. S.W I

A WAT-SIDE HOUSE AT MIDNIGHT.

(See page 359.)

A WAY-SIDE HOUSE ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES. 359
up, and after a few miles we reached table-land,
with a barren sandy soil, thickly covered with small
spruce, and intersected by numerous lakes. The
accommodation along the road was everywhere
miserable enough, but after leaving Clinton it became
abominable. The only bed was the floor of the " way
side houses," which occur every ten miles or so, and
are named the " Fiftieth " or " Hundredth Mile
House," according to the number of the nearest
mile-post. Our solitary blankets formed poor padding
against the inequalities of the rough-hewn boards, and
equally ineffectual to keep out the cold draughts which
whistled under the ill-fitting door of the hut. A way
side house on the road to the mines is merely a rough
log hut of a single room ; at one end a large open
chimney, and at the side a bar counter, behind which
are shelves with rows of bottles containing the vilest
of alcoholic drinks. The miners on their journey up
or down, according to the season — men of every
nationality — Englishmen, Irishmen, and Scotchmen,
Frenchmen, ItaHans, and Germans, Yankees and
niggers, Mexicans and South Sea Islanders — come
dropping in towards evening in twos and threes, divest
themselves of the roll of blankets slung upon their
backs, and depositing them upon the floor, use them
as a seat, for the hut possesses few or none. The next
thing is to have a "drink," which is proposed by
some one of the party less " hard up " than his
friends, and the rest of the company present are
generaUy invited to join in.
After supper and pipes, and more " drinks," each

360 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
unroUs his blankets, and chooses his bed for the
night. Some elect to sleep on the counter, and
some on the flour sacks piled at one end of the
room, whdst the rest stretch themselves on the
floor, with their feet to the fire. Occasionally
a few commence gambling, which, with an accom
paniment of drinking and blasphemy, goes on for
the greater part of the night.
Descending from the high land, we came to the
" Hundred Mile House," at Bridge Creek. This is
the commencement of a tract of country more fertde
than any we met with, except that of the Delta of
the Fraser ; and yet the amount of good land is of
but small extent. Here and there a rich bottom,
a consolidated marsh, or the lowland on the banks
of some stream, had been converted into a pro
ductive farm, and the low hills afford plenty of
pasturage ; but the whole of the rising ground is
merely sand and shingle, and nothing but bunch-.
grass flourishes there. On the road we met a small
buUock-wagon, escorted by about twenty armed
miners on foot. This proved to contain 630 pounds
weight of gold, the profits of a Mr. Cameron, the
principal shareholder in the noted Cameron claim.
This gold, worth about £30,000, had been amassed
in the short space of three months, and represented
probably less than one-half the actual produce of
the mine during that time.
At Soda Creek we took the steamer for Ques-
neUe. Captain Done, the commander, was a joUy,
red-faced, portly fellow, of exceeding hospitahty.

FROM QUESNELLE TO WILLIAM'S CREEK. 361
He invited us to his cabin — the only furnished room
on board — and bringing out a box of cigars, and
ordering a whole decanter fuU of "brandy cocktail"
to be made at once, desired us to make ourselves
happy. Every quarter of an hour we were called
out by the nigger " bar-keep " to have a drink with
the Captain and the "crowd," as the general company
is termed. A refusal would have been considered
grossly rude, and we had to exercise great ingenuity
in evading the continual invitations. The only
excuse allowed is that of having just had a meal,
for a Yankee always drinks on an empty stomach,
and never after eating ; and American manners and
customs rule in the mines. The steamer cost no
less than 75,000 dollars, or £15,000; the whole
of the machinery and boder-plates having been
brought 200 mUes on the backs of mtdes.
At Quesnelle Mouth we slung our roll of blankets
on our backs, and started on foot for WdHam's
Creek. The road was very rough, a narrow pack-
trad cut through the woods ; the stumps of the felled
trees were left in the ground, and the thick stratum
of mud in the spaces between was ploughed into
deep holes by the continual trampling of mules.
The ground had been frozen, and covered with
several inches of snow, but this had partially melted,
and rendered the surface greasy and slippery. We
stumbled about amongst the hardened mud-holes,
and our huge jack-boots soon blistered our feet so
dreadfuUy, that by the second day we were almost
disabled. Fortunately we picked up a pair of

362 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
" gumboots" — long boots of India-rubber, used by
the miners for working in the water — which had
been cast away by the road-side, and substituting
these for our cumbrous riding-boots, struggled
on less painfully afterwards. The traU, gradually
ascending, passed along the sides of pine-clad hiUs
closely packed together, and separated only by the
narrowest ravines ; we had indeed entered the same
region of mountain and forest which we had formerly
encountered on the upper part of the North Thomp
son. By the road-side lay the dead bodies of horses
and mules, some standing as they had died, stiU
stuck fast in the deep, tenacious mud. We passed a
score of them in one day in fuU view ; and hundreds,
which had turned aside to die, lay hidden in the
forest which shut in the trad so closely. Martens
and wood-partridges were numerous, and a taU
Yankee, from the State of Maine, who had joined
our company, greatly distinguished himself, knock
ing them over with his revolver from the tops of
the high pines in a manner which astonished us.
As we approached William's Creek, the ascent
became more rapid and the snow deeper, for the
frost at this height had been unbroken.
On the evening of the third day's march
we reached Richfield, sixty-five mdes from the
Mouth of Quesnelle ; but, acting on the advice of
our friend from Maine, walked on through Barker-
ville to Cameron Town, lower down the same creek,
where the richest mines were being at this time
worked. It was already dark, and we had a rough

REACH CARIBOO AT LAST. 3G3
walk of it — along the bottom of the narrow ravine
through which runs William's Creek, scrambling
over "flumes," logs, and heaps of rubbish for about
two miles, before we doffed our packs at Cusheon's
Hotel. We had reached Cariboo at last, although
by a much more roundabout way than we originaUy
intended.

CHAPTER XIX.
William's Creek, Cariboo — The Discoverers— The Position and Nature
of the Gold Country — -Geological Features — The Cariboo District
— Hunting the Gold up the Fraser to Cariboo— Conjectured Posi
tion of the Auriferous Quartz Veins — Various kinds of Gold —
Drawbacks to Mining in Cariboo — The Cause of its Uncertainty
— Extraordinary Richness of the Diggings — " The Way the Money
Goes" — Miners' Eccentricities — Our Quarters at Cusheon's — Price
of Provisions — The Circulating Medium — Down in the Mines —
Profits and Expenses — The "Judge" — Our Farewell Dinner — The
Company — Dr. B— — 1 waxes Eloquent — Dr. B  k's Noble Sen
timents — The Evening's Entertainment — Dr. B  1 Retires, but
is heard of again — -General Confusion — -The Party Breaks Up —
Leave Cariboo — Boating down the Fraser — Camping Out — Wil
liam's Lake — Catastrophe on the River — The Express Wagon —
Difficulties on the Way — The Express-man prophesies his own
Fate — The Road beyond Lytton — A Break Down — Furious
Drive into Yale — Victoria once more.
William's Creek takes its name from one of its
discoverers, William Dietz, a Prussian, who, with his
companion, a Scotchman, named Rose, were amongst
the most adventurous of the pioneers of the Cariboo
country. Neither of them ever reaped any reward
from the discovery of perhaps the richest creek in
the world. When a crowd of miners rushed to the
place, they left in search of fresh diggings. The
Scotchman disappeared for months, and his body
was found at length by a party of miners in a journey
of discovery, far out in the wilds. On the branch of

THE AURIFEROUS TRACT. 365
a tree hard by hung his tin cup, and scratched
upon it with the point of a knife was his name,
and the words, " Dying of starvation." William
Dietz returned unsuccessful to Victoria, and, struck
down by rheumatic fever, was dependent on charity
at the time of our visit.
The broken-up and irregular western flank of the
Rocky Mountains appears to be the true gold-bearing
region of British Columbia. Gold has indeed been
found in nearly every part of the colony where it
has been looked for, but never in large quantities,
except on the streams issuing from this district,
as the Fraser and Columbia with their tributaries.
It has been found also on the eastern slope, on the
North Saskatchewan and Peace Rivers. But the
amount obtained on the Saskatchewan has been
inconsiderable ; and it is worthy of remark that,
whde this river takes its rise just to the west of
the middle line of the main ridge, Peace River, on
which rich prospects have been discovered, has its
origin fairly on the western side, flows through the
auriferous tract for a considerable distance, and
then turning east, passes through a wide rent in
the Rocky Mountains. In crossing by the Yellow
Head Pass, we met with carboniferous limestone,
then Devonian, and near Robson's Peak, on the
western slope, saw for the first time the dark slates
and schistose rocks, with veins of quartz — probably
of the upper Sdurian strata — which mark the
auriferous tract. West of this, an extensive region
of what appears to be eruptive trap commences, and

366 TnE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
probably continues up to the Cascade, or coast range,
to the westward ; whUe to the south-east it stretches
across the valleys of the Fraser and Thompson to
that of the Columbia. The Cascade Range consists
of granitic and plutonic rocks, and in places clay-
slate and semi-crystalline Hmestones occur.
The district of Cariboo is the richest portion of
the British Columbian gold field, and here the
geologic disturbance has been the greatest. Cari
boo is a sea of mountains and pine-clad hiUs, the
former rising to a height of 7,000 or 8,000 feet,
surrounded by a confused congeries of the latter.
Everywhere the surface has been disturbed, so that
hardly a foot of level ground can be found, except
at the bottom of the narrow guUies running between
these hills. Strata are tilted on end, and beds of
streams heaved up to the tops of hiUs. Round
this centre of wealth poured up from the depths
below, the main branch of the Fraser wraps itself
in its semi-circular course, and has received from
thence, by numerous tributaries, the gold found in
its sands. Gold was first discovered on the sand-bars of the
Lower Fraser, in the state of the finest dust. The
old miners of CaHfornia traced it up the river, and
foUowed it as it became of coarser and coarser grain
400 mUes along the Fraser, and then up the small
affluents from Cariboo. Here were found nuggets,
and lumps of auriferous quartz. The hunted metal
was almost run to earth. But the exciting pursuit
is not yet quite over. The veins of auriferous

QUARTZ-LEADS AND GOLD. 367
quartz have not, so far, been discovered, although con
jecture points to their probable position. Lightning,
Antler, Keighley's, William's Creek, and many
others, all take their rise in a range known as the
Bald Mountains, and most of them radiate from
one of them, the Snow-Shoe Mountain. Here the
matrix is presumed to lie, and although it may have
been denuded of its richest portion, carried down
as the drift gold of the creeks, fortunes stdl lie hid
in the solid rock ; and when the quartz-leads are
discovered, British Columbia may emulate California
in wealth and stability. The hundreds of mills in
that country, crushing thousands of tons of gold
and sdver quartz per day, have proved that this
branch of mining is far more paying and rehable
than the uncertain and evanescent surface diggings,
which formerly there, as now in Cariboo, furnished
all the gold obtained. Several different qualities
of gold are found in Cariboo. In Wdliam's Creek
alone, two distinct "leads" are found; one where
the gold is aUoyed with a considerable proportion
of sdver, the other higher coloured and much purer.
AU the gold of this creek is battered and water- worn,
as if it had been carried some distance from the
original bed. At Lowhee, only three mdes distant,
it is found in larger nuggets, less altered by the
action of water, and almost pure. On Lightning
Creek the gold is smaUer, much more water-worn,
but of the first quality.
The great drawbacks to the mining in this dis
trict are, the nature of the country, the mountains and

368 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
dense forest forming great obstacles to proper inves
tigation, and rendering the transport of provisions
and other necessaries exceedingly costly. The long
and severe winter, which prevents the working of
the mines from October until June ; and the great
geological disturbances which have taken place,
although they doubtless are one cause of its
exceeding richness, render the foUowing of the
"leads" very difficult and uncertain. The two
former disadvantages will be removed ere long by
the clearing of the country, the formation of roads,
and the employment of steam power to drain
the shafts. The difficulties encountered in tracing
the course of the gold are more serious ; but more
accurate knowledge of the geological formation wiU
give greater certainty to the search. At present the
changes which have taken place in the face of the
country continually upset the most acute calcula
tions. The drift gold carried down the streams
settled on the sohd " bed rock," or in the blue clay
immediately above it, and has been covered by the
gravel accumulated in after times. Now, if the streams
ran in exactly the same channels as they did when
the gold came down, the matter would be simple
enough. But great changes have taken place since
then. At one point an enormous shde has occurred,
covering in the channel, and forcing the stream to find
a new course. At another, some convulsion appears
to have upheaved a portion of the old bed high and
dry. In the first case the " lead " is found to run
into the mountain side ; in the other it scales the hill.

RICHNESS OF THE CARIBOO MINES. 369
But these eccentricities are only discovered by expe
riment, and many a miner works for weeks to sink
his shaft of thirty or forty feet, to find nothing at the
end of his labour. His neighbour above or below
may perhaps be making £1,000 a day, but the creek
ran not through his claim in these past ages when
it washed down the auriferous debris. More for
tunate men, however, who, in mining phrase, " hit
a streak," often make large fortunes in Cariboo in
an incredibly short space of time.
The extraordinary yield of the Cariboo mines
may be inferred from the fact that in 1861 the
whole of the colonies of British Columbia and
Vancouver Island were almost entirely supported
by the gold obtained from Antler Creek alone ; and
from that time to the present year, or for four years
in succession, William's Creek has also alone sus
tained more than 16,000 people, some of whom
have left the country with large fortunes. And yet
William's Creek is a mere narrow ravine, worked for
little more than two mdes of its length, and that
in the roughest manner. The miners are destitute
of steam power, and many requisites for efficient
mining ; and all that has been done hitherto has
been mere scratching in the dark.
Out of many instances of the wonderful richness
of these diggings it may be mentioned that Cunning
ham's Claim yielded, on an average, nearly 2,000
dollars, or £400 a day, during the whole season ;
and another, DiUon's Claim, gave the enormous
amount of 102 lbs. of gold, or nearly £4,000 in one
Y

370 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
day. One hundred feet of the Cameron Claim, held
in the name of another man, produced 120,000
doUars. The wealth thus rapidly obtained is generaUy
dissipated almost as quickly. The lucky miner
hastens down to Victoria or San Francisco, and sows
his gold broadcast. No luxury is too costly for him,
no extravagance too great for the magnitude of his
ideas. His love of display leads him into a thousand
follies, and he proclaims his disregard for money by
numberless eccentricities. One man who, at the end
of the season found himself possessed of 30,000 or
40,000 doUars, having fiUed his pockets with twenty-
dollar gold pieces, on his arrival in Victoria pro
ceeded to a " bar-room," and treated " the crowd " to
champagne. The company present being unable to
consume aU the bar-keeper's stock, assistance was
obtained from without, and the passers-by compeUed
to come in. Stdl the supply held out, and not
another "drink" could any one swaUow. In this
emergency the ingenious giver of the treat ordered
every glass belonging to the establishment to be
brought out and filled. Then raising his stick, with
one feU swoop he knocked the army of glasses off
the counter. One hamper of champagne, however,
yet remained, and, determined not to be beaten, he
ordered it to be opened and placed upon the floor,
and jumping in, stamped the bottles to pieces beneath
his heavy boots, severely cutting his shins, it is said,
in the operation. But although the champagne was
at last finished, he had a handful of gold pieces to

miners' freaks. 371
dispose of, and walking up to a large mirror, worth
several hundred doUars, which adorned one end of
the room, dashed a shower of heavy coins against
it, and shivered it to pieces. The hero of this story
returned to the mines in the foUowing spring without
a cent, and was working as a common labourer at
the time of our visit. A freak of one of the most
successful Californians may be appended as a com
panion to the story just related. When in the height
of his glory he was in the habit of substituting
champagne bottles — fuU ones, too — for the wooden
pins in the bowling aUey, smashing batch after batch
with infinite satisfaction to himself, amid the ap
plause of his companions and the " bar-keep."
Our quarters at Cusheon's Hotel were vde. A
blanket spread on the floor of a loft was our
bedroom, but the swarms of lice which infested the
place rendered sleep almost impossible, and made us
think with regret on the soft turf of the prairie, or
a mossy couch in the woods. The fare, Hmited to
beefsteaks, bread, and dried apples, was wretchedly
cooked and frightfully expensive. Beef was worth
fifty cents or two shiUings a pound, flour the same,
a "drink" of anything except water was half a
dollar, nor could the smallest article, even a box of
matches, be bought for less than a " quarter" — one
shilling. Before we reached Wdliam's Creek we
paid a dollar and a quarter, or five shdhngs, for a
single pint bottle of stout.
Coin of any kind is rarely seen, gold-dust being
the circulating medium, and each person carries a
y 2

372 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
small bag of it, from which the requisite quantity is
weighed out for each payment.
In the mines we visited at Cameron Town the
" pay-dirt," as the stratum of clay and gravel above
the "bed-rock" in which the gold Hes is caUed, was
from thirty to fifty feet below the surface. A shaft
is sunk to the required depth, and the " dirt"
carried up by a bucket raised by a windlass. This
is emptied into a long box, caUed the dump-box or
"long torn," having a false bottom of parallel bars, .
with narrow spaces between them, raised a few
inches above the true bottom, across which several
cross pieces are placed. A stream of water, brought
in a series of troughs called "flumes," sometimes for
a considerable distance, pours into the dump-box
at- one end, and runs out by another series of
troughs at the other. As the dirt is emptied
in, a man armed with a large many-pronged fork
stirs it up continuaUy, and removes the larger stones.
The smaUer particles and the clay are carried down
the stream, whde the gold, from its greater weight,
falls through the spaces between the parallel bars
of the false bottom, and is arrested by the transverse
ones or "riffle" of the true one. The "pay-dirt"
is generally not more than from three to five feet
thick, and the galleries of the mine are consequently
very low, the roof being propped up by upright
timbers, and cross beams wedged in above. The
water is pumped out of the mines by a water wheel
and chain pump, but these are quite useless in
winter, and become covered with enormous icicles.

ism

¦Si --ail

BS0PI

MINERS WASHING FOR GOLD.

(See page 372.)

THE CAMERON AND RABY CLAIMS. 373
One or two were still kept working, even at this
late season, by help of fires and roofing over. The
Cameron, Raby, and Caledonian Claims, three of
the richest in WilHam's Creek, were, by good luck,
still in full swing, and we frequently went down
with some of the happy proprietors, and crept about
the low dripping galleries, washed for gold, or picked
out the rich "pockets" formed under some arresting
boulder. In many places we could see the. glistening
yellow, but generally it was imperceptible, even in
the richest dirt. Mr. Steele, of the Cameron Claim,
kindly showed us the Company's books, from which
it appeared that the yield varied from 40 to 112 oz.
a shaft in the day, and there were three shafts,
making £2,000 to £5,000 per week altogether.
But the expenses were very heavy, averaging 7,000
dollars a week, or about £1,500. Eighty men
were employed, at wages ranging from ten to six
teen dollars a day, or £2 to £3, and this alone
would reach £1,208.
At noon, each day, the dump-boxes are emptied,
and. the gold separated from the black sand which
is always mixed with it. At the "washing-up"
of one shaft of the Raby Claim, which we saw,
the gold fiUed one of the tin cases used for preserved
meats, holding nearly a quart, the value of about
£1,000 for fifteen hours' work ! Amongst the gold
were several shdlings and quarter doUars, which
had dropped out of the men's pockets, and turned
up again in the dump-box.
After going through the mines on William's

374 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Creek, we walked over the hdl to Lowhee, a smaUer
creek, lying about three mUes off in a yet narrower
ravine. The workings were very similar, but the
gold was richer and brighter, the pieces more
jagged and angular, as if they had not been carried
very far from the original quartz reef. The Lowhee
gold is very pure, being -920 against #830 of WilHam's
Creek. Before taking leave of Cariboo, we must not
forget to mention glorious "Judge " Cox, magistrate
and gold commissioner there, prime favourite of all
the miners, and everybody's friend. The "judge,"
as he is invariably called, after Yankee fashion,
decides the cases brought before him by common
sense ; and, strange to say, both winners and losers,
fascinated by the man, appear to be equaUy delighted
with his judgments. We received much kindness
from him, and spent many pleasant hours in his
genial society.
Nor would it be just to leave unnoticed the
sumptuous dinner at which we were entertained
on the eve of our departure. The giver of the
feast, Dr. B  k, selected the ward of the
hospital as an appropriate dining-room, the single
unfortunate patient in at the time being veded
from , sight by a sheet of green baize suspended
from the waU. We had soup, roast beef, boded
mutton, and plum pudding, with abundance of
champagne. The company was somewhat mixed,
yet aU fraternised with easy cordiahty. We had
Mr. C  , manager of the Cariboo branch of the

a.

OUR FAREWELL DINNER. 375
 Bank, a gentleman of solemn aspect, and with
a large bald head, who wore spectacles, dressed
in frock-coat, represented respectabihty, and spoke
on aU points with authority; Mr. B.  , an old
Hudson's Bay man, highly convivial, delighting in
harmony ; Dr. B  1, a medical gentleman, afflicted
with the " cacoethes bibendi," as well as " loquendi" —
a lean little fellow, with a large mouth, who appeared
in the fuU glory of a swaUow-tailed coat, and was
perpetually smiling, yet, in reality, taking a gloomy
view of things in general ; Mr. C  , a young
lawyer, Irish and impressionable; BiUy Ferren, a suc
cessful miner, from his loquacity nicknamed " Billy
the Bladge," rough, noisy, breaking forth into
shouts and laughter ; Dr. B  k's assistant, quiet
and generally useful; and lastly, the lady of the
party, Mrs. Morris, more generally known by her
Christian name of Janet, fair, fat, and forty, and
proprietor of a neighbouring house of refreshment.
She had kindly come in to cook the dinner, and
when that was duly |et forth, she yielded to popular
clamour, and joined us at the table.
Before the cloth was drawn — metaphorically —
i.e., whilst we were stdl occupied with plum pudding,
Dr. B  1, who had shown symptoms of restless
ness for some time, could repress the flood of
eloquence rising within him no longer, and having
succeeded in catching the president's eye, and
received a permissive nod in return, rose cautiously
on his legs. A vigorous rapping on the table pro
cured silence, and Dr. B  1, steadying himself

376 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
by the table with one tremulous hand, and waving
the other gracefully towards ourselves, whde the
ever-beaming smde irradiated his countenance, pro
posed Mdton's health in most glowing terms,
winding up his panegyric with a request for three-
times-three, and " He's a jolly good fellow." These
were given uproariously — the Hudson's Bay man
leading, and Janet bringing in an effective soprano.
The eloquent Dr. B  1 again rose, and proposed
the health of the other visitor in similar eulogistic
terms, and that was drunk with aU the honours.
When thanks had been returned by the honoured
guests in an appropriate manner, the irrepressible
Dr. B  1 rose for the third time, and with grave
countenance reproached the host for his repre
hensible neglect in omitting to propose the health of
Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen. Dr. B  k
felt humiliated ; and although urging in extenuation
the precipitation with which his friend had pro
posed the other toasts, ftdly acknowledged the
gross disloyalty of which he had been uninten
tionally guUty. He trusted the circumstance
might never come to Her Majesty's knowledge;
and he could assure the company that the spark
of loyalty never burnt brighter in any breast than
his. From his childhood he had been ready — nay,
he might say wishful — to die for his Queen and
country. Animated by that desire, he had gone
out with the British army to the Crimea, and now,
marching in the van of civdisation in Cariboo, he
was ready to die in the cause,

THE REVELRY WAXES FURIOUS. 377
When Her Majesty's health had been drunk
amidst hearty applause, we adjourned to the
kitchen. More healths were drunk. Janet made
a very pretty speech, and presented Milton with
a handsome nugget ; BiUy Ferren foUowed suit with
a second. Then each gave one to Cheadle with
simdar ceremony. The irrepressible Dr. B  1
rose every few minutes to propose anew the health
of one or other of the " illustrious travellers," and
was remorselessly sung down by the equaUy in
defatigable Hudson's Bay man, who always had
"Annie Laurie" ready for the emergency, and all
joining in the chorus, the obtrusive speaker was
ultimately overpowered. At last his eyes became
glassy, his smde disappeared, and he sat in his
chair gloonxdy silent. AU at once, however, he
got up, and rushing across the room, made in
effectual attempts to force an exit through the
mantelpiece, bobbing against it very much after the
fashion of a bird trying to escape through a pane of
glass; whereupon he was seized by the assistant,
and led off into a bedroom. Cards were now intro
duced, and we were initiated into " High, Low, Jack
and the Game," and "Pitch seven up," but were
presently disturbed by a tremendous crash in the
bedroom adjoining ; the assistant ran out, and found
Dr. B  1 on the floor, having rolled off the bed
into a misceUaneous coUection of pots, pans, brushes,
and etceteras which had been put there out of the
way. After this interruption conviviality reigned

378 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
again. We played " Pitch seven up " tiU we were
too sleepy to see the cards ; the Hudson's Bay
man tuned up indiscriminately, Janet sang "Auld
Robin Gray " five or six times, " BiUy the Bladge "
carried on a fierce argument with the manager of
the bank on colonial politics, everybody talked
at the same time, smoked and drank whisky
until far on towards daylight, when we turned
out into the cold night with the thermometer
standing at five degrees, and made our way back
to Cusheon's. On the 30th of October, having spent ten days
in WilHam's Creek, we resumed our packs, and bade
adieu to Cusheon's, Cameron Town, and Judge Cox,
and started for the Mouth of Quesnelle. The snow had
fallen to the depth of six or seven inches, but this
had been well beaten by previous passengers. We
reached the banks of the Fraser in three days, with
far greater ease than we had walked the same dis
tance on our way in. To our dismay, we found that
the steamer to Soda Creek had stopped running for
the winter ; but were relieved to learn that an open
boat would start for that place on the following day,
in which we took our passages. The owner of the
boat, Mr. McBride, was one of a party which had
ascended the Fraser, and crossed to Peace River by
Stuart's and McLeod's Lakes, during the summer.
They had foUowed the Peace River right through
the Rocky Mountains, and as far as Fort Dunvegan,
on the eastern side. He described the country on
the west of the mountains as resembhng the ordi-

BOATING DOWN THE FRASER. 379
nary Fraser River country ; but that to the east of
them a mixture of fine woods and fertile prairies,
abounding in game. On the banks of Smoky River,
one of the tributaries of Peace River, numerous
craters were observed, emitting dense volumes of
smoke and sulphurous gases from upwards of
thirty funnel-shaped apertures, the size of ordinary
stove-pipes. The banks were in many parts
covered with a deposit of pure sulphur. On Tribe
or Nation River, another tributary, they found
slate-rock and quartz veins, and very good dig
gings on some of the bars.
The boat in which we embarked was a large,
strongly-budt one, constructed on purpose for the
journey to Peace River. Forty passengers were
crowded into it, packed close as negroes in a slaver.
The day was very cold, and the snow feU heavily,
wetting us through before long ; and the pools of
" slush," which formed at the bottom of the boat,
made our feet ache again with cold. A Httle below
QuesneUe Mouth is a rather dangerous "riffle," or
rapid, of lumpy water, where the whirlpool is said
to have sucked down canoes head foremost. We
shot this safely, although we shipped some water,
and continued to run down the stream at a great
pace, until just afterpassing Alexandria, when we stuck
fast on a shallow rapid. The boat could not be got
off by any amount of pushing, and McBride called
for volunteers to jump overboard, and lighten the
boat. Five or six feUows at once responded, and as
the boat was stdl immovable, each took another on

380 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
his back, and proceeded towards the shore. One
little feUow, carrying a huge six-feet Yankee, stum
bled and fell, with his rider ; both were soused over
head, and essayed several times in vain to gain their
legs, for the current was so powerful that it swept
them down at each attempt. The lookers-on roared
with laughter, but it was no joke to the sufferers to
be immersed in the icy waters of the Fraser on such
a day. The boat was now lifted off the shaUow,
the waders re-embarked, and we continued our
course until nearly dark, when McBride proposed to
land and camp for the night, as we were stdl many
mdes from Soda Creek, and there were several
awkward rapids before us. A few daredevils voted
for going forward, but the majority decided against it,
and we puUed in to the bank, at a place where there
were some large stacks of wood, cut for the use of
the steamer. Every one now tried to strike a light,
but Milton was the first to succeed, and we were
soon surrounded by a circle of roaring fires, at the
expense of the owners of the QuesneUe steamboat.
McBride produced some loaves and a flitch of bacon,
which very soon disappeared before the fierce attacks
of the hungry party, and we then turned in on
couches of pine boughs. It snowed fast aU night,
and we woke up in the morning under a thick white
counterpane. There was nothing for breakfast, and
as soon as the morning mists cleared away from the
river we took to the boat again, and reached Soda
Creek safely in about a couple of hours. We had
taken our places in the " express wagon," running

CATASTROPHE ON THE FRASER. 381
between this place and Yale with letters and gold ;
but, as the express-man had not yet returned from
Cariboo, we walked on fourteen miles to Davidson's,
near William's Lake. The farm here is, perhaps,
the finest in British Columbia, comprising several
hundred acres of low land on the borders of the
lake, the delta of a small stream which enters at
this point. Potatoes and other vegetables, barley
and oats, flourish wonderftdly. Wheat had been
sown for the first time that year, and was already
above ground, but looked rather starved and yeUow.
The scenery of WilHam's Lake is very beautiful;
bold, rugged hiUs rising up grandly on the west.
The day after our arrival at Davidson's a large
party of miners came in with the inteUigence that a
boat which left the Mouth of Quesnelle the day after
we did had been swamped in the rapids below. Seven
or eight persons were drowned, and one of the lucky
survivors was a man who carried several pounds'
weight of gold in a belt round his waist. The
force of the current literally threw him ashore, and
he managed to scramble out.
In two or three days the express arrived, and we
started for Yale once more. When we reached the
bottom of the ascent to the high table-land, we found
the road covered with a thick sheet of ice, and all
hands had to get out and push behind the wagon.
The horses feU frequently, and had to be unharnessed
and put on their legs again ; but, after many delays,
we got to the top, where the snow was deeper, and
the horses travelled better.

382 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
We carried 170 pounds' weight of gold with us
in the express wagon, and the fact that this, worth
about £8,000, could be thus forwarded without any
escort, is the strongest possible testimony to the
orderly state of the country. In addition to the
driver, there was one other passenger and ourselves,
yet the former was the only one armed. He told us
that he frequently traveUed in charge of the treasure
quite alone, and had made up his mind that he should
be attacked some time. The temptation would be too
great, and the opportunities plentiful enough along
the lonely 400 mdes, where the houses were ten or
twenty miles apart, and passengers rare except at
certain seasons. He looked upon " The Chasm " as
the most suitable and probable place of attack ; its
yawning gulf, hidden from the road by bushes, and
its bottom covered by debris and underwood, offering
every convenience for the disposal of his body. He
was by no means nervous, or in any way unhappy,
but laughed and talked about his anticipated fate
with careless indifference.
Five days' driving brought us to the terrific road
between Lytton and Yale, and as we sat in the
wagon, within a few inches of the unguarded edge
of the precipice of 700 or 800 feet, running up and
down the steeps, and along the narrow portions,
winding round the face of the bluffs, we could not
help an uneasy consciousness that a very trifling acci
dent might eject us from our lofty position into the
depths below. And what made matters look worse
was, that our carriage was graduaUy coming to pieces.

OUR DRIVE INTO YALE. 383
First one spring broke, and then another, and we
bumped about on the axles. Next the splinter-bar gave
way, and had to be tied up with a piece of rope. All
these would have been trifling accidents had the road
been of a different character, but when, to crown all,
the pole snapped in its socket, and the wagon ran into
the horses, we had good cause to be thankful that this
had happened in the middle of a flat, just after
crossing the suspension bridge. Had it occurred a
few minutes sooner, we should doubtless have been
precipitated headlong into the Roaring Canons. The
pole was past mending, so the driver took the horses
out and led them back to a house about half a mile
distant, the rest of us remaining behind to guard the
treasure by the light of a large bonfire, for it was
already quite dark. In about an hour the driver re
appeared, accompanied by a friend, bringing a large
covered wagon, drawn by two fine Californian horses.
The fresh horses were put in as leaders, and we soon
started with our four-in-hand, rattling along at a
headlong gallop, for we had now two drivers, one
who managed the reins, while the other vigorously
plied the whip. The express-man had brought a
bottle of whisky back with him, and he and his
friend devoted themselves assiduously to it in the
calmer intervals of their joint occupation. After a
time it was discovered that the reins of the leaders
were not crossed, and consequently useless for
guiding purposes ; but the two Californians led the
way admirably, sweeping round every curve with
great precision. Much of the road was as dangerous

384 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
as any we had passed before, but the men shouted
and whipped up, the horses gaUoped furiously, the
wagon whisked round the precipitous bluffs, and tore
down the steep descents in mad career. We reached
Yale before midnight, having been little more than
an hour doing the last fifteen mdes of this fearful
road. Leaving this picturesque Httle town for the
second and last time the foUowing morning, we took
steamer down the Fraser once more, and landed in
Victoria again on the 25th of November.

CHAPTER XX.
Nanaimo and San Juan — Resources of British Columbia and Van
couver Island — Minerals — Timber — Abundance of Fish — Different
Kinds of Salmon — The Hoolicans, and the Indian Method of
Taking them — Pasturage — The Bunch-grass — Its Peculiarities
and Drawbacks — Scarcity of Farming Land — Different Localities
— Land in Vancouver Island — Contrast between California and
British Columbia — Gross Misrepresentations of the Latter —
Necessity for the Saskatchewan as an Agricultural Supplement
— Advantages of a Route across the Continent — The Americans
before us — The Difficulties less by the British Route — Communi
cation with China and Japan by this Line — The Shorter Distance
— The Time now come for the Fall of the Last Great Monopoly —
The North- West Passage by Sea, and that by Land — The Last
News of Mr. O'B. — Conclusion.
After our return to Victoria we received a kind
invitation from Captain LasceUes to accompany him in
H.M. gunboat Forward on a cruise to San Juan and
Nanaimo. The cruise was most enjoyable ; we inspected
the coal-mines of the future Newcastle of the Pacific,
and enjoyed most thoroughly the hospitahty of
Captain Bazalgette and his officers on the noted
island of San Juan.
We had now seen a great portion of British
Columbia and Vancouver. We had traveUed through
the former from Tete Jaune Cache by the Thompson
to the mouth of the Fraser, and again through the
heart of the country to Cariboo. We found the
country abounding in mineral wealth. The extent

386 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
and richness of the gold fields, added to every month
by fresh discoveries, would alone be sufficient
to render the colony one of our most valuable posses
sions. But the indications that many other of the
most valuable minerals wiU be found in British
Columbia, as in the neighbouring state of CaHfornia,
are strong. At present, however, every other pursuit
is put aside for that of gold, and the real mineral
wealth of the country is little known. Coal, however,
crops out at Alexandria, SimUkameen, and Burrard's
Inlet. In the sister colony of Vancouver are the
magnificent beds of coal, which have been afready
extensively and most successfrdly worked at Nanaimo
for the last four or five years.
The timber of British Columbia is, of its kind,
unequalled. The Douglas pine, with its straight
uniform trunk, exceedingly tough and flexible,
furnishes the finest masts and spars for the largest
vessels. These trees often attain a height of upwards
of 300 feet, with a diameter of ten feet. The white
pine and the gigantic cypress, the latter exceeding
even the Douglas pine in size, grow together with it
in vast forests, yielding an almost inexhaustible supply.
But perhaps the most striking feature in the resources
of British Columbia and Vancouver Island is the extra
ordinary number and variety of the fish, which frequent
the shores and swarm in aU the rivers. In the spring
two kinds of salmon ascend the Fraser, millions of
"hooHcans" crowd into its mouth, and shoals of
herrings enter every inlet. The hoolican is like a
sprat, but a Httle larger, and is a very dehcious fish,

THE FISH OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. 387
rich in oU. Flocks of guUs hovering over the shoals
announce the arrival of these fish ; and their extra
ordinary numbers may be imagined from the way
in which the Indians take them. The river is
HteraUy aHve with fish, and the native fisherman
carries a long piece of wood, armed with sharp-pointed
wires on each side, Hke the teeth of a rake. This
he sweeps through the water as he sits in his canoe,
after the fashion of a paddle, and at each stroke brings
up a row of hooHcans impaled upon the spikes. Three
fresh species of salmon continue to ascend the river in
succession during the summer and autumn, and in
the winter a fifth variety makes its appearance in the
harbours and inlets along the coast. We saw some of
fifteen to twenty pounds each caught in the harbour of
St. Juan in the month of December. Salmon of some
kind is thus in season aU the year round. Trout
abound in the mountain streams and lakes, and the
sturgeon frequents the deeps of the Fraser. In
Burrard's Inlet oysters are found in great abundance ;
and, in fact, everything good in the way of fish seems
to be coUected in this, so far, highly favoured country.
From the richness and extent of its pasturage,
and the dryness of its soU and climate, British
Columbia offers great advantages to the breeder of
stock. But there are certain drawbacks, the principal
of which is that an immense extent of country would
be required by each stock farmer. The only grass
is the " bunch-grass." It covers the terraces of the
Fraser, and the rolHng sweUs and mountain-sides of
the central region. Growing in the separate " tufts "
z 2

388 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
from which it has taken its name, it fixes but a
slight hold upon the Hght, powdery sod with its
slender roots. Horses and cattle puU much of it up
in grazing, and sheep, which thrive equally upon it,
crop the delicate plant so closely that it frequently
does not recover. In this way the Lilloet flats, which
were once celebrated as rich feeding grounds, have
now become bare, dusty plains, on which a few scat
tered plants of wdd sage and absinthe stdl remain,
where the bunch-grass has been destroyed. The
facts, too, that the bunch-grass requires three years
to come to perfection and fuUy recover after being
eaten down, and that, from its mode of growth in
distinct tufts, the ground is reaUy but scantdy
covered with herbage, confirm the behef that, for a
stock farm to be successful, its range of pasturage
must be very extensive. But there is room enough
now, and any who may devote themselves to the
raising of sheep and cattle wdl certainly reap a rich
harvest of profit. Strange to say, from some cause
— either want of capital, or the prospect of more
rapid profit from other pursuits — it has been little
foUowed hitherto, and the land lies open to the first-
comer. The extent of agricultural land in British Columbia
is very limited indeed. With the exception of a
smaU district between the south end of the Okanagan
Lake and the Grand Prairie, on the road from thence
to the Thompson River ; a few other patches of good
land in the interior; and the delta of the Fraser,
which is covered almost entirely with dense forest,

FARMING LAND. 389
and exposed to the summer floods, it is a country of
rocks, gravel, and shingle. The surface of the country
east of the coast range of mountains consists, princi
pally, of a high table-land, from which rise up moun
tains and hiUs, and indented by the vaUeys of the
Thompson and Fraser, and their countless tributaries.
These vaUeys are deep and narrow, and their sides
generally steep. On the table-land the night frosts,
prevalent throughout the summer, preclude the cul
tivation of almost every description of produce. In
the valleys the land is generally very dry and sandy,
or stony, and unless some very perfect system of
irrigation and manuring is adopted, would yield a
wretched return.
In aU the instances we saw where attempts had
been made to raise crops of cereals on the terraces of
the Thompson and Fraser, or, indeed, anywhere in the
region of shingle and gravel, they had faded. Cab
bages, and vegetables of simUar kind, if weU watered,
seemed to flourish very weU ; but the oats and barley
were short in the ear, and the straw weak, stunted, and
miserable. Water is sufficiently abundant, but the
soil of the irrigated tracts is so extremely Hght, and in
most parts underlaid by such a depth of gravel and
shingle, that the water percolates through as through
a sieve, and the streams disappear without spreading
over the surface. The decay of the sparsely-growing
bunch-grass cannot have rendered the land rich in
vegetable mould. Occasional fertile spots, of a few
acres in extent, occur on the margin of the rivers, as
along the north and south branches of the Thompson

390 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
above Kamloops. There are also patches of good land
in the vicinity of WilHam's Lake, Beaver Lake, and
Alexandria, which have proved very productive. But
these rich bottoms and aUuvial lowlands are striking
exceptions to the general character of the country.
British Columbia, rich beyond conception in many
ways, is not an agricultural country. Vancouver
Island^ too, is merely a huge rock, in the hoUows
of which vegetable mould has coUected. But this
is often too shaUow to be worked with the plough,
and these fertde oases are generaUy of smaU extent —
fit for gardens rather than farms.
In consequence, therefore, of the deficiency of
the two colonies in this respect, their popula
tion is stiU suppHed with provisions from California,
and their gold goes into the pockets of Ameri
cans. California is probably the richest country
in the world. Possessing every valuable mineral
in inexhaustible abundance — except coal, which has
not been yet found in any quantity — she has also
a soU of extraordinary fertiUty. Her mountains are of
gold and sdver, and her vaUeys as the land of Goshen.
Wheat grows so luxuriantly that " volunteer crops "
— the produce of the second and even third year
from the seed shaken out in the gathering of the pre
vious harvest — spring up without the labour of man.
Fruits of every kind, from the apples, pears, and
grapes of temperate climes, to the pine-apples and
bananas of the tropics, come to perfection within
her Hmits. Oats grow wUd on the slopes of the
Sierra Nevada; and in the alluvial plains, besides

MISREPRESENTATIONS OF THE COLONY. 391
the ordinary cereals, flourish maize, tobacco, and
cotton. It is far otherwise with British Columbia. She
probably equals California in mineral wealth, but,
being as it were a mere continuation of the Rocky
Mountains to the Pacific, a sea of hills, a land of
mountains and forests, or shingly swells and terraces
covered with bunch-grass, the farmer looks in vain for
rich alluvial vaUeys. No colony has been more mis
represented than this.
In former times, when a preserve for fur-bearing
animals under the sway of the Hudson's Bay Com
pany, it was reputed to be "little better than a
waste and howling wUderness, wherein half-famished
beasts of prey waged eternal war with a sparse
population of half-starved savages ; where the cold
was more than Arctic, and the drought more than
Saharan;" and that — to quote the words of the
ChanceUor of the Exchequer in the House of Com
mons a few years ago — " these territories were bound
by frost and banked by fog, and woe betide any
unfortunate individual who might be so far diverted
from the path of prudence as to endeavour to settle
in those parts. "(T)
But the accounts sent to this country soon after
the first rush of emigrants to the land of gold, dif
fered widely from the old story. It was now as
much the interest of speculators and property-holders
to attract emigration by exaggerated praise of the
P) Vide " Prize Essay on British Columbia," by the Rev. R. C. L.
Brown, M.A., Minister of St. Mary's, Lilloet.

392 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
colony, as it had formerly been that of the Hudson's
Bay Company to repel it, and keep their possession
intact by representing it as a barren wilderness.
The most glowing reports were sent home, and were
pubhshed in the leading newspapers. The new
colony was represented as a very paradise for the
farmer, and many men went out believing this, to
find bitter disappointment in the reaHty. Neither of
the two accounts is correct ; the truth Hes, as is usuaUy
the case in like matters, between the two extremes,
and we have been induced to set forth the truth some
what fuUy, from a desire to do away with the injurious
misconception which has prevailed on this subject.
Although there is Httle land fit for agricultural
purposes within the boundaries of British Columbia,
the fertUe belt of the Saskatchewan is separated from
it only by the barrier of the Rocky Mountains. Of
the beauties and resources of this pleasant land, we
have already made mention in these pages. The
rich prairies, with from three to five feet of aUuvial
soU, are ready for the plough, or offer the luxuriant
grasses, which, in the old time, fattened countless
herds of buffalo, to domesticated herds. Woods,
lakes, and streams diversify the scene, and offer
timber, fish, and myriads of wUd fowl. Yet this
glorious country, estimated at 65,000 square mUes,
and forty millions of acres of the richest soil, capable
of supporting twenty miUions of people, is, from
its isolated position, and the difficulties put in the
way of settlement by the governing power, hitherto
left utterly neglected and useless, except for the

THE ROUTE ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 393
support of a few Indians and the employe's of the
Hudson's Bay Company. And this rich agricultural
country lies but a step as it were from the gold
fields. It is the very supplement required to
British Columbia. That communication could be
easily established has been already demonstrated.
Why, then, should not the miners be supplied with
provisions from British territory, instead of from
California, and the gold of British Columbia enrich
British subjects rather than Americans ?
We Would not, however, stop here. The advan
tages of a route across the continent of America,
which passes entirely through British territory, seem
palpable enough. The Americans, ever in advance
of us in like enterprises — not from individual supe
riority perhaps, but having a more liberal and less
lethargic government — have constructed a road, and
laid a telegraph Hne across the continent to CaH
fornia, and have commenced a Pacific RaUway,
Greater difficulties had to be encountered in carrying
a road over more barren prairies, where wood and
water are scarce, and which are infested by hostile
Indians. The pass through the mountains in American
territory is abrupt and high, unlike the easier gradients
of the VermiHon and Jasper House passes. But aU
these obstacles were overcome, and San Francisco /is
now in dady communication with the Atlantic States
by both post and telegraph; the latter having paid
the cost of its construction in a single year. The
principal obstacle to be overcome in carrying a road
across the continent which shall pass entirely through

394 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
British territory, appears to be in the district between
Lake Superior and Fort Garry. This region consists
in great measure of swamp and forest, and consider
able outlay and labour would be required to render it
passable. But Professor Hind (*) has satisfactorily
proved that the difficulties are far from insuperable,
and not worthy of consideration in view of the mag
nificent results which would follow its successful
accomplishment. In California and British Columbia,
where far greater obstacles have been successfrdly
overcome, such objections would be considered Hght
indeed. Nearly 200 years have elapsed since Cavaher
de la Sale conceived the project of opening a com
munication between the Atlantic and Pacific by a
route across the continent, and in pursuit of this
scheme, in 1731, the French Canadians were the
first to reach the Rocky Mountains. Since then the
subject has been repeatedly brought before the notice
of the Government and the public.
The dream of the old enthusiasts, of thus reach
ing China and Japan, is on the point of being
reahsed — not by Frenchmen or Englishmen, but
by Americans. They have already made the road
across the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
and as we write, the intelligence has arrived that
a bUl has passed the United States Congress, grant-
(') Vide " Overland Route to British Columbia," by Henry Voule
Hind, M.A., F.R.G.S., and " Narrative of Canadian Exploring Ex
pedition," by the same Author; also Captain Palliser's Report in the
" Journal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1860."

THE REAL HIGHWAY TO THE PACIFIC. 395
ing a subsidy for the establishment of a Hne of
steamers between San Francisco and Hongkong.
Victoria, with the magnificent harbour of Esqui
malt, offers far superior advantages, for the coal-mines
of Vancouver Island are the only ones on the
Pacific coast of North America. Victoria is but
6,053 miles from Hongkong, or about twenty-one
days' steaming ; and if a railway were constructed
from Halifax to some point in British Columbia,
the whole distance to Southampton would be accom
pHshed in thirty-six days — from fifteen to twenty
days less than by the Overland Route via Suez. Q)
At the present time this subject acquires addi
tional interest from the projected Federation of the
British North American Colonies, and the uncertain
condition of our relations with the Northern States
of America. The time seems to have come when the Hudson's
Bay Company, having done good service by a
beneficent rule over the territories granted it, which
contrasts strongly with that of the American Fur
Companies, should share the fate of aU the great
monopohes which have faUen before it. Lord
Wharncliffe has lately brought this question before
the House of Lords, proposing the formation of the
north-west territory into a separate colony, and in
quiring whether any steps had been taken in the
matter. But of course the Government had done
nothing, and apparently has no intention of moving.
(*) Vide Dr. Rathray, "Vancouver Island, and British Columbia."

396 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.
Millions of money and hundreds of lives have
been lost in the search for a North- West Passage by
Sea. Discovered at last, it has proved useless. The
North- West Passage by Land is the real highway to
the Pacific ; and let us hope that as our countrymen
gained the glory of the former brilHant achievement,
valueless to commerce, so they may be the first to
establish a railway across the continent of America,
and reap the solid advantages which the reaHsation
of the old dream has failed to afford.
The cacoethes scribendi is upon us, and we would
fain run on through many pages, to describe our
sojourn in the fair land of California, fruitful in
strange scenes and curious adventures. But the
reader, wearied perchance by the duU detads and
prosings of this last chapter, will agree with us that
the book is already long enough, and we dare not
gratify our wish to write more. He might ask,
however, what became of our friend, Mr. O'B. That
migratory gentleman, Hke the Wandering Jew, or
the soul of the celebrated John Brown, is doubtless
still "marching on." When we returned to Victoria,
after our journey to Cariboo, Mr. O'B. had departed,
and his portrait is therefore wanting in the Frontis
piece. He had " moved on " to San Francisco.
When we arrived in that city, he had " moved on" to
Melbourne, AustraHa. From there he has probably
"moved on" to New Zealand, or again reached
India, to circle round to England in due course,
happy in any country free from wolves, grisly bears,
and Assiniboines.
The many kindnesses we received from Sir James

HOME AGAIN ! 397
Douglas, and numerous other friends in Victoria,
must remain undetaded, though not forgotten. We
saded in the S.S. Pacific, on the 20th of December,
for San Francisco ; were caught in a white squall off
Neah Bay ; the boder burst ; and Christmas Day
came off before we reached our destination.
The glories of the Golden City ; the pleasures en
joyed in the society of Mr. Booker, and the other
kind members of the Union Club there ; the wonders
of the Big-tree Grove in the Mariposa Valley, where
grow Wellingtonias (called Washingtonias in the
States), upwards of 400 feet high — higher than St.
Paul's — on the stumps of which' are built ball-rooms,
and on the prostrate trunks bowling alleys; the
beautiful ladies of "Frisco," as the Californians
playfully denominate San Francisco, and the frater
nising rowdies of " Copperopolis " and Columbia
City, must remain undescribed. These things, and
how we dreamed through the voyage down the
smooth Pacific, with the languid carelessness of
lotos-eaters; how we escaped the wdes of the
grass-widow, (x) and quarrelled with argumentative
Northerners on board the steamer Golden City, are
they not recorded in our journals ?
We reached Liverpool by way of Panama and
New York, on the 5th of March, 1864, and entered
at once into the pleasures of a return home in the
company of old friends, who welcomed us as we
disembarked from the China.
(») A grass-widow in America is a woman who has separated or
been divorced from her husband.

APPENDIX.

THE GOVERNMENT OF THE RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.
The Legislative CouncU is appointed by the Hudson's
Bay Company ; but for many years past aU vacancies
have been fiUed up on the recommendation of the
Council itself. Amongst its members are many of
the. most active business competitors of the Company.
This body imposes aU taxes, and has the control of
aU the expenditure.
The appointment of Sheriffs Hes entirely with the
Council, who also appoint the Petty Magistrates.
The Justices of the Peace receive their commissions
from the Company, on the recommendation of the
Council. The Chairman of the Hudson's Bay Company
(Sir Edmund Head) is officially styled Governor of
the Hudson's Bay Company, according to the terms
of the Charter of grant.
The Governor-in-Chief of Rupert's Land (Mr.
DaUas) presides at the CouncU in Red River, has
jurisdiction over, and charge of, aU the Company's
chartered territory, as well as of the Indian territory,

APPENDIX. 399
and also of aU the Company's posts in North
America, from Labrador to the Pacific, including
Vancouver's Island and the Sandwich Islands.
The Governor of Assiniboia (Mr. M'Tavish) has
charge of the district so named, comprising the
country within a radius of fifty miles from Fort Garry.
This district has the municipal government of the
Council, &c.
In defence of the Company against the charge
of refusing to supply goods to rival traders, Mr.
Dallas says, " The Company seU goods to the public
at Fort Garry, and supply their rivals without
stint. They do not profess to do so in the interior,
where they can hardly supply their own wants.
This they proclaim in order that there may be no
mistake ; but to this rule they are, perforce, obliged
to make many exceptions — viz., in the case of
missionaries, travellers, and traders, who would be
otherwise helplessly destitute, and to some of the
last-named who agree to give their furs to the
Company." With respect to the position of the Company at
Red River, he remarks, " The Company's influence
Hes chiefly in its commercial and financial rela
tions, and in the numbers of people who are de
pendent on it for bread. The onus of governing the
country they would only be too happy to transfer to
the Crown or to Canada. . . . The cessation of
the Company's business, although a few might profit
by it, would only bring anarchy and ruin on the
Indians and population generally; and I honestly

400 APPENDIX.
believe that they deserve credit for the way they have
conducted the government of the country."
That the cessation of the Company's business
would be a serious blow to the Settlement we readily
aUow; but the substitution of a proper Colonial
Government for that of the Company, does not
destroy their trade, as has been sufficiently proved
in the case of British Columbia and Vancouver
Island. Let them continue to be great merchants,
as in those colonies ; but let their monopoly cease,
and the governing power be transferred to inde
pendent hands.

Extract from a Letter received from Me. M'Kat, of Kamloops : —
" I have been most of this season exploring for a telegraph
line between Tete Jaune Cache and William's Creek — a most
difficult country to travel through. You may congratulate your
selves on having decided on descending the North River instead
of forcing your way to Cariboo direct. You would not have been
able to get your horses through. There are three very high
ranges of mountains to cross between the Cache and William's
Creek — intensely rugged — in fact, indescribably rugged ; and the
rocks are in many places so highly impregnated with iron that the
compass becomes unreliable. The weather is horrible — constant
rain, snow, and mists, and very little sunshine ; so that, even when
approaching the diggings we felt at a loss where to look for them.
I am indeed glad to have finished my work safely. I lost one
man, who died from mountain fever, poor fellow ! twenty-four
hours before reaching Fort George. The Thompson River route is
the best for a road or telegraph line, and there do not appear to be
any extraordinary difficulties in the way of constructing a road or
telegraph by that route. New discoveries of gold have lately
been made N.E. from William's Creek, and also on the Upper
Columbia."

CASSELL, PRTTi:E, AND GALPIN, I1ELLE 8AUVAGE WORKS, LONDON, E.C.

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