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THE DOME OF THE CAPITOL— With Greenough's Statue of Washington facing entrance.

RAND McNALLY & GO.'S

I'l

PICTORIAL GUIDE

TO

AVASHINGTON Including Complete Descriptions of the Capitol, Library op
Congress, White House, the Departments, Mount Vernon,
Arlington, and All Other Points op Interest.

BRONZE STATUE OF LIBERTY ON DOME OF CAPITOL.

Illustrations peom Recent Photographs, together with Maps,
Plans, etc., Prepared Especially por the "Work.

Chicago and New York:
^AND, McNALLY & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS,
1904.

COPYBIGHT, 1900, BY EiHD, MoNallY & OOMPAUY,
Copyright, 1901, by Rani), McNally & Compawy.
COPYEIGHT, 1903, BY EauD, McNahy & COMPAHY.
COPYEIGHT, 1903, BY RanD, MoNally & COMPANY,
COPYBIGBT, 1904, BY Rakd, MoNally &, COMPANY.

THE CAPITOL.

FRONT

CONTENTS.

chapter page
I. An Introduction to Washington ............ 11
Railways, Cabs, Streets, Etc  11
District Government  ....,.,..' 14
II. A Tour of the Capitol  15
TIT. The Library of Congress . . ,  45
IV. On Capitol Hill  79
V. From the Capitol to the White House  85
VI- At the Executive Mansion . . .  91
VII. The Executive Departments .  . 99
VIII. From the Monument to the Museums ...  . 115
The Washington Monument  115
Some Scientific Departments . . .  119
IX. The Corcoran and other Art Galleries ........ 129
X. Churches, Clubs, Theaters, Etc. .  135
XI. Official Etiquette at the Capital  139
XII. Streets, Squares, and Residences  143
XIII. Excursions about Washington . . . ... ... 159
1. To Mount Vernon  159
2. To Arlington National Cemetery and Fort Meyer . . . 173
3. To the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Church, Fort Stevens, Battle
and National Cemeteries, Catbolic University, and Brookland . 180
./ 4. To the "Zoo," Rock Creek National Park, and Chevy Chase . 185
5. Georgetown and its Vicinity . . . ... 186
6. Georgetown to Tennallytown and Glen Echo . . . . . 188
7. Georgetown to Glen Echo, Cabin John, and Great Falls . . . 189
8. To Bladensburg and Kendall Green  jgi
9. To Benning and Chesapeake Beach  jgi

10

I.

AN INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON.
Washington has two railway stations
and one steamboat landing. The railway
stations are :
(1) Baltimore & Ohio Station, at
New Jersey Avenue and C Street, one
block north of the Capitol
grounds. Into this old. Railway
ante bellum station of the Stations.
oldest working railroad in
the country come the Royal Blue and all
other trains of the Baltimore & Ohio sys
tem and its connections from tbe North
and West, and from the South by way of
the Shenandoah Valley. Street cars may
be taken here for any part of the city, and
baggage wagons and electric cabs will be
found in waiting. It has no restaurant,
but several exist near by.
(2) Pennsylvania Railroad Station, at
Sixth and B streets. This is half a block
from Pennsylvania Avenue, midway be
tween the Capitol and the Treasury, and
convenient to street cars. Carriages and
express wagons are always in waiting
This is the station for all trains of the
Pennsylvania (Baltimore & Potomac) and Northern Central railroads, and their con
nections north and east, including the through trains to and from Boston ; and for
trains to and from the South over the Southern Railway, Atlantic Coast Line, Chesa
peake & Ohio Railroad, and Seaboard Air Line. There is an excellent restaurant in the
building, which, though rather small, is convenient.
The Steamboat Landing for all Potomac boats and ferries — Norfolk, Mount Vernon,
Alexandria, etc., is at the foot of Seventh Street. Steamboat leaves
for Fort Monroe and Norfolk every evening at 6.30. Steamboats.
The street-car system of the city is extensive and convenient. All
the principal lines are operated on the underground electric trolley system, and all are
confrolled by either the Capital Traction Company or the Metropolitan Railroad Com
pany. Each transfers from line to line of its own system.
The cars on Pennsylvania Avenue are green or yellow. The green cars run between
Georgetown and the Navy Yard ; the yellow cars between Mount Pleasant, at tbe
northern extremity of Fourteenth Street, and the Baltimore &.Ohio Rail
road Station. These lines separate at the Peace Monument, and at New Street Cars.
York Avenue, and both transfer with each other, and with the Seventh
Street line. The Seventh Street line runs from the Arsenal and steamboat wharves
11

EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF WASHINGTON
IN WASHINGTON CIRCLE.
By Clarl< Mills.

12 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
north to the boundary, where it connects with the Brigbtwood line for the Soldiers'
Home, Brigbtwood, and other suburbs to Fort Green, eight miles from the Treasury. A
line along U Street connects the Seventh and Fourteenth street lines, and extends to the
boundary at Rock Creek, where it connects with the cars for Zoological Park and
Chevy Chase. The Chevy Chase cars also come directly to the Treasury during the
busy hours of the day. The above lines are operated by the Capital Traction Company
and exchange free transfers.
The Metropolitan lines extend from Georgetown along M Street, Connecticut Avenue,
H, Fourteenth, and F streets to Capitol Hill, where they skirt the western and northern
side of the Capitol grounds, pass the Library of Congress, and run eastward to tbe edge
of the city. This is popularly known as the F Street line. At George-
Suburban town it connects with a line up the Potomac Valley to Cabin John Bridge
Lines. and Great Palls, and also one to Tennallytown and Rockville. This com
pany also controls the Connecticut Avenue line to Mount Pleasant ; the
Eleventh Street, Ninth Street, and Brightwood lines ; the Belt line ; two lines pene
trating the Northeastern quarter, one of which extends to Benning, and connects with
a steam railroad for Chesapeake Beach ; and the two suburban lines northeastward, one
reaching Brookland, and the other Hyattsville, Bladensburg, Riverdale, and other vil
lages to Berwyn, Md. All of these exchange transfers, and all center at the Treasury,
but the various divisions are not separated by the colors of the cars.
Fare everywhere within the city, 5 cents ; and six tickets are sold for 25 cents, good
upon all lines. A line of herdics also runs upon Sixteenth Street, which exchanges
transfers with the F Street line at the corner of H and Sixteenth Street.
Hacks and cabs are numerous, and not expensive, and the authorized rates are as
follows :
One-Horse Vehicles. By the trip — Day rates, between 5 a. m. and 12.30 A. m.,
each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 25 cents ; each additional five squares or parts
of squares, 10 cents. Midnight rates, between 12.30 a. m. and 5 A. m.,
Public each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 40 cents ; each additional five
Carriages. squares or parts of squares, 15 cents. By the hour — Day rates, one
or two passengers, first hour, 75 cents ; each additional quarter hour
or part thereof, 20 cents; three or four passengers, first hour, $1; each additional
quarter hour or part thereof, 25 cents. Midnight rates about double these.
Two-Horse Vehicles. About double the rates for one-horse cabs. The law says that
when vehicles are not engaged by the hour, trip rates shall be charged ; but when
charges for consecutive trips exceed rates per hour, charges shall be by the hour.
Both the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore & Ohio railway companies maintain a system
of cabs intended especially for persons going to and from their stations, but available
for general services. Those of the Baltimore & Ohio Company are electric automobiles.
Bicycles are extremely numerous in Washington, and many places exist
Bicycles. where they can be rented. The law requires them to keep off the side
walks, avoid excessive speed, and carry lamps at night. The favorite
out-of-town run is up the Potomac.
An alphabetical list of hotels will be found at the end of this book.
Restaurants have multiplied and improved in Washington during the last ten years.
The most famous restaurants in Washington, since the disappearance of Wormley's
and Welcker's, are the Chamberlin and Harvey's. The former occupies
Hotels and a double house at I and Fifteenth streets, and serves game and costly
Restaurants, delicacies beloved of clubmen, prepared in the Southern style which has
made its terrapin, canvasbacks, etc., celebrated. The other, Harvey's,
at Pennsylvania Avenue and Eleventh Street, is noted for its oysters. These and the

IJNrKODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. 13
^horftham, Gordon, and Raleigh are favorite resorts for after -the -theater suppers.
)n F, G, Ninth, Seventh, and other streets in the region near the public buildings, are
a large number of dairies, bakeries, ice-cream saloons, and eating-places of eveiy grade,
resorted to by government clerks, men and women, high and low. Dining-rooms are
numerous on the avenue and in Georgetown. The restaurants in the Capitol are good,
especially that in the Senate basement, and there are good ones at the Library of Con
gress and National Museum.
Professional boarding-houses, often with the names and pretensions of "hotels," are
plentiful, particularly in the region north of the avenue, between Tenth and Fourteenth
streets, and in the neighborhood of the Pension Building; and this
quarter also abounds in private houses renting rooms and perhaps fur- Boarding-
nishing board. All these are indicated by small signs displayed at the houses.
door or in a window. The best plan for a person desiring such quarters
is to walk about, observe these signs, and examine what suits him. A man and his
wife can get very comfortable lodging and board for .|60 to $75 a month.
The shops of Washington are extensive and fine. The principal shopping streets are
Pennsylvania Avenue, Seventh, Ninth, F, and G streets, between Ninth
and Fourteenth streets, but there are local groups of stores, especially for Shops.
provisions, on Capitol Hill, in Georgetown, and along H Street, N. E.
The District of Columbia had a peculiar origin, and its constitution and history
account for many of the peculiarities of the present capital city. The first Congress
of the United States had the task of establishing a Federal capital, under
a plan for taking in some small tract of land and exercising exclusive Origin Of
jurisdiction over it. In 1790 a bill was passed, after many postpone- District
ments and much hot discussion, accepting from the States of Maryland of Columbia.
and Virginia a tract ten miles square on the Potomac, to be called the
District of Columbia; but in 1846 Virginia's portion — some thirty-six square miles
south of the river — was ceded back to her. Three Commissioners were appointed
by the President (Washington) to purchase the land from its owners, and to provide
suitable buildings for the Government, Major Pierre Charles L'Enfant, a French
engineer who had fought in the Revolution, was appointed to lay out the city, but
proved so irreconcilable to discipline that it became necessary to dismiss him, though
his plan was essentially followed by EUicott, his assistant, who succeeded him.
a The avenues were named after the States, and in a certain order. By reason of its
midway and influential position, that had already given it the excellent soubriquet
"Keystone State," Pennsylvania was entitled to the name of the great
central avenue. The avenues south of this received the names of the Arrangement
Southern States ; the avenues which crossed Pennsylvania were named of Streets.
after the Middle States, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, and New York,
while the New England States were left to designate the avenues then regarded as
remote possibilities among the swamps and hills of the northwest. The curious way
in which the capital has developed along the lines of the last-named group is typical
of the growth and change in the balance of the whole country since L'Enfant's day.
The rectilinear streets run exactly north and south and east and west. The streets
running east and west are known by the letters of the alphabet, so we have North A
and South A, North B and South B, and so on ; at right angles to the alphabetical
streets are the streets bearing numbers, and beginning their house enumeration at
a line running due north and south through the Capitol. This divides the city into
four quarters. Northwest, Northeast, Southeast, and Southwest, each with its own set
of numbers for the houses, arranged upon the decimal system — that is, 100 numbers
for each block. ,This is repeated in a direction away from each of the Capitol streets;

14 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
all addresses, therefore, should bear the added designation of the quarter by its
initials — N.W., N. E., S. E., or S. W. In this book, as nearly everything mentioned
is in the Northwest Quarter, these initials are uniformly omitted for that quarter,
but are always supplied elsewhere.
In 1800 the seat of Government was established in Washington City, which was
first so called, it is said, by the Commissioners in 1791. The General himself, who
was its most active promoter, always spoke of it as the Federal City.
Early The town was all in the woods, and had only 3,000 inhabitants, mostly
History. living in the northwestern quarter, or on Capitol Hill. Nevertheless
it grew until 1814, when, after a weak resistance at Bladensburg, it was
captured by the British, who set fire to the public buildings and some private resi
dences, intending to destroy the town altogether. A hurricane of wind and rain
came that night to complete the destruction in some respects, but this extinguished
the conflagration. Next day the British left in a panic of causeless fear, excepting
a large contingent of deserters, who took this opportunity to stay behind and "grow
up with the country." The city was immediately rebuilt, and in 1860 it contained
61,000 inhabitants. When the Civil War was over the city found itself with an
enlarged population and a vastly greater importance.
The population of the District of Columbia, including the city, is now about 300,000,
and it is steadily growing. The Federal Government, in lieu of assessed taxes, contributes
one-half of all the District's expenses, and practically has done much
Population. more than that in the form of public grounds, boulevards, and reserva
tions free to the public, and maintained at the public expense.
The relations of the District and Federal City to the Union are very peculiar. After
several experiments in municipal government, Congress created a form of administra
tion of District and city affairs, which consists simply of two civilian
District Commissioners appointed by the President, and confirmed by the Senate,
Government, and one army engineer officer detailed by the Secretary of War, the three
constituting a Board of Commissioners for three years. They are
empowered by Congress to make, and change at will, building, health, and police regu
lations. They also' appoint all subordinate officials and clerks.
They are required to ijiake and submit to the Secretary of the Treasury annual esti
mates for all the expenditures within the District for the ensuing year. One-half of the
amount to be raised is assessed upon the District, the other half is appropriated by.
Congress. The headquarters of District affairs is in the District Building on Louisiana
Avenue, near City Hall. The District courts, except the Police Court, are in the City
Hall, an old building in Judiciary Square, facing Four-and-a-half Street, where the
Marshal and certain other functionaries also have offices. It was in this edifice, built for
the courthouse, that Garfield's assassin, Guiteau, was tried, and other noted cases have
been heard there. In front of it, upon a marble column, stands a monument of Lincoln
carved by Lot Flannery, who has been described as a "self-taught sculptor."

II.

A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL.

WEST VIEW OF CAPITOL.
The great advantage that Washington enjoys in having been intelligently platted
before any building of consequence had begun, is signally shown in the choice of this
central and sightly hilltop as the position of the Capitol. The grounds
in front of the building were made perfectly level, but in the rear they Capitol
sloped downward some eighty feet to the Potomac flats, which are over- Grounds.
flowed occasionally even yet. The present arrangement of the park dates
from 1874, when it was enlarged to its present enclosure of forty-six acres, and beautified
by the late Frederick Law Olmstead. The splendid marble terraces on the western side
of the building, and their ornamental approaches, together costing |200,000, are a part
of the general scheme of outdoor decoration, which each year becomes more admirable
as the trees and shrubberies mature. A pretty feature of the northwestern part of the
park is the ivy-covered rest-house,- one window of which looks into a grotto. The low
stone towers, becoming vine-covered, in the western parts of the park, are the orifices
through which is drawn the supply of fresh air for the ventilation of the Senate cham
ber and hall of Representatives. Immediately in front (east) of the Capitol is the
15

16 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Plaza, where vast crowds assemble to witness presidential inaugurations, and here,
facing the main entrance, stands Greenough's statue of Washington, sitting in a curule
chair as the first great tribune of the American people.
A statue of Washington was ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize the centennial
anniversary of his birth. The commission was given to Horatio Greenough, who was
then residing in Florence, Italy, the only restriction upon the execution
Greenough's of his plan being that it should not be equestrian, and that the counte-
Statue of nance should conform to that of the Houdon statue. His price of $20,-
Washington. 000 was accepted, and he devoted the principal part of his time for eight
years to its completion. The intention was to place this statue in the
center of the rotunda, over the mausoleum provided for Washington in the undercroft ;
but by the time it was completed and had been brought here in a special ship (1841), the
idea of placing the bones of Washington in the Capitol had been abandoned, and it was
decided to leave it out-of-doors. This statue, which is covered from the weather in
winter and invisible, is of Carrara marble, and represents, in heroic size, the Father
of his Country in a Roman toga, which has slipped from his shoulders, lifting a hand of
warning and advice to the nation. As a work of art, it has caused great controversy
among people of taste. It is probable that we know too much of Washington as a man
— he is too near to us — to make an attempt at classic idealization of him seem natural or
pleasing. The act of Congress of July 9, 1790, which established the District of Columbia as
the National Capital, provided that prior to the first Monday of December, 1800, the
Commissioners should have finished a suitable building for the sessions of Congress.
When the Commissioners had accepted L'Enfant's plan for the city, they found this hill
selected by him as the site of the national legislative halls, and as soon as
Beginnings the Commissioners could accumulate money enough from their land sales
of the to make a respectable showing, they began the erection of the two build-
Capitol. ings first needed — the Executive Mansion and the Congressional halls
and offices, which at Jefferson's suggestion, it is said, came to be called
the Capitol. One of the interesting features of early life at the seat of Government is
the degree to which formal classics ruled in taste. The corner-stones were laid with
Masonic rites and all possible parade, George Washington officiating. October 13, 1792,
was the date at the President's House ; but the corner-stone of the Capitol (marked in
1895 by a bronze plate) was not laid until September 18, 1793. Materials were slow and
uncertain, and had not Virginia and Maryland advanced the money Congress refused,
the work would have stopped altogether. The town was yet only a muddy village in
the woods ; and the Commissioners had to fight opposition and obstacles at every step.
Nevertheless an edifice, such as it was, was ready for the Government, which came from
Philadelphia, bag and baggage, in u, single sloop, and took possession during Octo
ber, 1800.
Whose was the plan has excited much controversy, for several minds contributed.
The original sketch came from Doctor Thornton, a native of the West Indies, and then
in charge of the Patent Office, and so pleased Washington that it was
Plan and adopted. The plans were redrawn by Stephen H. Hallett, who was a
Architects. student of Nash, the most famous house-builder of his time. Hoban,
the architect of the White House, and others made suggestions, so that
Thornton's plan was much modified ; still less did it foreshadow the Capitol of to-day.
Only the north wing, or that part of the main building containing the present
Supreme C'ourt rooms, was finished in 1800, the opposite wing not being ready until
1811. S> A wooden passageway connected them across the space now occupied by the
basement of the rotunda. The expenditure up to that time had been $787,000. When,

A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL.

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18 PIOTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
in 1814, the British captured the city, they entered the legislative halls, held a mock
session of Congress, and soon the building was in flames. In 1815 Congress authorized
the Secretary of the Treasury to borrow $500,000 to begin repairs (for the walls stood),
and in 1818 undertook the erection of the central part. B. H. Latrobe took the archi
tectural superintendence of the restoration, while the new central structure was planned
and supervised by Charles Bulfinoh. The original building was completed in 1827, at a
cost, including the grading of the grounds, repairs, etc., of not quite $2,500,000. A fire
in the library compelled the rebuilding of the western front in 1851, when additions were
made, and the same year the corner-stones of the extensions, now known
Cost. as the House and Senate wings, were laid ; but these were not completed
until 1859 (at a cost of nearly $9,000,000). Meanwhile the low wooden
dome which had temporarily covered the rotunda was removed in 1856, and the erection
of the present iron dome was begun.
Add to the sums above noted a million dollars for additional space for the grounds
and the obtaining of water, two millions for improvements of the grounds and terraces,
another million for repairs and improvements on the building itself, and various other
items, and the cost of the Capitol approaches $15,000,000.
The original and proper front of the Capitol is the eastern, and the city has grown
behind rather than before the statehouse of the nation, as it was expected to do.
This contingency has been met by improvements at the rear of the building to
increase the stateliness of its approaches, so that the Capitol now has two faces, different
but substantially equal in merit. The western front, although on the side from which
most visitors approach, requires a long, toilsome climbing of terraces and steps; whereas
the street cars carry passengers to the level of the basement on the south side, and on
the north side almost to the very entrance. It is therefore easier, as well as more proper,
to begin one's survey of the great structure at the architect's original front door.
This eastern front is imposing from every standpoint. One of the most satis
factory views of it is that obtained from the little car-passengers' shelter on the north
side of the grounds. The massive and classic proportions of the Senate
East Front, wing are near at hand, and its ornamental front cuts deeply into the
dome, whose supports sink away in grand perspective to the Representa
tive wing, while the majestic dome itself rises tier upon tier of columns and circling
architraves to its convergent roof and statue-crowned tholus. There is a wonderful
feeling of breadth and grandeur, yet of buoyancy, in this oblique aspect of the noble
pile — all sunny white, save the color in the folds of the flag.
The Capitol is 751 feet long, 350 feet in greatest width, and covers nearly four acres
of ground, with 153,112 square feet of floor space. It is 155 feet high to the cornices of
the main roof, or 288 feet to the crest of the Liberty statue. The dome
Style and is of iron, weighs nearly nine million pounds, and was completed in 1865,
Dimensions, replacing the earlier wooden dome. The architecture is modified Corin
thian upon a rustic base, plus a dome, and the material of the older
central part is Virginia (Aquia Creek) sandstone, painted white, but the newer wings
are built of Massachusetts marble.
In front of the building stretches a broad paved plaza, and three flights of broad
steps lead up the central entrance and to each wing, lending a very effective appearance
of breadth and solidity to the whole mass, whose walls are largely hidden
Crawford's by the rows of monolithic, fluted columns of Maryland marble that
Group. sustain the three broad porticos. The porticos of the wings have each
twenty-two columns, and ten more columns on each of their northern
and western fronts. The pediment of the southern wing, which contains the House of
Representatives, has no statuary, but the fa9ade of the northern wing, where the Senate

A TOUE OF THE CAPITOL.

19

sits, is doubly adorned. The tympanum is filled with an immense group by Thomas
Crawford, emblematic of American progress, which has displaced the Indians with the
arts of agriculture, commerce, and industrial production, supported by the sword. This
is considered the chef-d'oeuvre of this

talented American sculptor and will repay
careful study. Crawford was paid $17, 000
for the models, and the cutting of the
marble (from Lee, Mass.) by several
skilled Italian carvers cost $26,000 more.
The grand central portico, which dates
from 1825, is 160 feet wide, and has
twenty- four columns carrying a pediment
of 80 feet span filled with an allegorical
group cut in sandstone,
after a design by John Central
Quincy Adams when Sec- Portico.
retary of State. It was
executed by Luigi Persico, a prominent
Roman sculptor, who had many commis
sions here. This group represents the
" Genius of America." America, armed,
is resting her shield upon an altar, while
an eagle perches at her feet. She seems
listening to Hope, and points in response
to Justice, who holds the Constitution,
inscribed September 17, 1787 (the date of
its adoption), and her scales. From the
level of the portico extend two great
buttresses, each adorned with pieces of
colossal statuary in marble. That upon
the south side represents Columbus, and
is entitled "The Discovery of America."
The sculptor was Persico (1846), who
exactly copied the armor from a suit worn by Columbus, yet preserved in Genoa. The
opposite group (north) is by Greenough, and represents an incident of frontier life as
typical of " Civilization, or the First Settlement of America.'' Each of these groups
cost $24,000.
The inauguration of Presidents of the United States has taken place upon this portico
since the time of Jackson. A draped staging is extended outward to accommodate the
high officials who form a part of the ceremonial, and here the oath of office is adminis
tered by the Chief Justice in full view of a multitude of citizens.
In the center of this portico is the great Rogers bronze door which opens directly into
the rotunda under the dome, and is among the most interesting objects at the Capitol.
It was designed in Rome in 1858 by Randolph Rogers, who received $8,000 for his
plaster models, and was cast in Munich, in 1861, by F. Von MtlUer, who was paid
$17,000 in gold, then at a high premium. It is nineteen feet high and weighs ten tons.
The leaves or valves of the door, which is double, stand in superbly
enriched casing, and when opened fold back into fitting jambs. Each Rogers
leaf is divided into eight panels, in addition to the transom panel under Bronze Door.
the arch. Each panel contains a complete scene in alto-relievo. The
scenes portrayed constitute the principal events in the life of Columbus and the

GREENOUGH'S "THE RESCUE.'
Central Portico.

20

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

discovery of America, with an ornate enrichment of emblematic designs. On the key of
the arch of the casing is the head of Columbus, and on the sides of the casing are four
typical statuettes in niches arranged chronologically — Asia, Africa, Europe, and America.
The remainder of the casing is embellished with a running border of ancient armor,
banners, and heraldic designs, and at the bottom, on either side, an anchor, all in basso-
relievo, and emblematic of navigation and conquest. On the frame of each leaf of the
door, set in niches, are sixteen statuettes of the patrons and contemporaries of Colum
bus, given in the order of their association with the announcement and execution of his
theory of geographical exploration. The first eight figures are associated in pairs when
the doors are closed, and divided when opened. All are labeled. The sixteenth is
Pizarro, conqueror of Peru. The panels illustrate the career of Columbus, the third
scene being his audience at the court of
Ferdinand and Isabella. Between the
panels are a series of heads, representing
the historians of the voyages of Colum
bus, prominent among whom are Irving
and Prescott.
Niches on each side of this imposing
entrance hold statues of Mars or War (on
the right — a noble figure of a Roman
warrior) and of Ceres or Peace (on the
left — a female figure with flowers and
fruits) modeled by Persico and costing
together $12,000; while above the- door is
a bust of Washington, crowned by Fame
and Peace, which was sculptured by
A. Capellano in 1827. Capellano is not
known beyond his carvings here.
Passing through the bronze doors,
we enter the Rotunda. It occupies
nearly the whole width of the center of
the building, and is unbroken to the
summit of the dome.
It is 96 feet in diameter and 180
feet high to the canopy. Its center is
the center of the Capitol. The pavement
THE ROGERS BRONZE DOOR. .„ „ -, , J ^, ,,
IS ot sandstone, and the walls are plas
tered and broken into panels by engaged pillars, above which there is a broad entabla
ture. This is surmounted by a gallery (which has as good a "whispering"
echo as that of St. Paul's), formed of Corinthian columns connected by a
balustrade; and this gallery and the Rotunda are lighted by a belt of large
windows, outside of which is the circular row of columns that form the external visible
supports of the dome. From the entablature carried upon these pillars springs the con
cavity of the dome, arching inward to an opening 50 feet in diameter, at the base of the
lantern, called the eye. This opening is encircled by a gallery and canopied by a painted
ceiling, consisting of a circular piece of iron, covered with stucco, 65 feet wide.
In the vast and somewhat obscure space of this immense apartment only a colossus, like
the Statue of Liberty in New York harbor, would seem a fitting ornament. It was pro
posed to cut away the floor in the center and erect Greenough's figure of Washington
now on the plaza, upon an elevated pedestal approached from the crypt ; but this was

M*»a. .... ...

•* < *

t a ESr''"' ~ • — •"

T,.fi!

f

Rotunda.

A TOUE OF THE CAPITOL.

21

not done, and all attempts at decoration have been confined to the walls, except the
placing of a few statues.
Four doors open out of the Rotunda, and over each is a marble panel carved in high
relief. That over the eastern, or main, entrance and e'Kit is by Enrico Causici of Verona, a
pupil of Canova, and represents the "Landing of the Pilgrims"; that over
the northern door is by N. Gevelot, a Frenchman, and pictures William RotUnda
Penn making a treaty with the Delaware Indians ; over the southern door Doors.
is another group by Causici — "Daniel Boone in Conflict with the Indians" —
in which Boone's face was copied from a portrait by Hardinge, and over the western door

Rotunda
Wall
Paintings.

THE LANDING OF COLUMBUS AT SAN SALVADOR.— Painting by John Vanderlyn, Rotunda.
is Capellano's "Pocahontas Saving the Life of John Smith." These sculptors were all
men who worked here about 1827, and each was paid $8,500.
Each of the lower wall spaces carries one of the big'historical paintings (18 by 1 3 feet),
familiar to everybody through innumerable reproductions — even upon the paper cur
rency and Columbian postage stamps of the Government. All are by
American artists. Each has attached to it a label and key-picture,
giving the names and positions of all the persons represented by carefufly
drawn portraits in its groups. They fall into two classes —" Early
historical" and "Revolutionary." The former are to a great degree
Imaginative, particularly the De Soto ; but the latter are accurately true to the times and
scenes they purport to represent. In the first class is the "Landing of Columbus at San
Salvador," in 1493, painted in 1839 by Vanderlyn, who was paid $10,000 for it in 1842.
The "Discovery of the Mississippi" by De Soto, in 1541, was painted by Wm. H.
Powell in 1850, and the price was $12,000. The "Baptism of Pocahontas" at James
town, in 1613, is nearer the truth, since the artist, J. G. Chapman, did his best to
represent the portraits and costumes of Rolfe, Sir Thomas Dale, and other Virginian
colonists and Indian chieftains, who may be supposed present at the ceremony. Its cost
was $10,000, and its date is 1836. The last of this colonial series, by Professor Weir,

22 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
date 1840, price $10,000, is a picture of the farewell service on board the unseaworthy
Speedwell, before it sailed from Delft Haven (the port of Leyden, Holland) for America,
bearing the first colony of Pilgrims, who were finally landed on Plymouth Rock by the
Mayflower. The four Revolutionary paintings are by Col. John Trumbull (1756-1843), who was
son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut. For several months the young officer
was aid and military secretary to Washington. After the war he studied in Europe,
and conceived an ambition to produce this series of national paintings, in which each
face is drawn from life, so far as sittings could be obtained, while others are copied from
approved portraits. This faithfulness of detail interferes with the best artistic results,
giving a certain hardness to all parts, but increases the historical value of the composi
tions. They were painted between 1817 and 1824, and cost the nation $33,000 — a large
sum in those days. Beside each picture is a "key," by consulting which the names of
most of the persons may be learned.
The first is "Signing the Declaration of Independence" in the Old Hall in Phila
delphia in 1776, the arrangement of the group of figures having been made as Jefferson,
Franklin, and others of the fathers described it to him. The presiding officer is John
Hancock. The "Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga" to General Gates is from
sketches made by Trumbull on the spot, October 17, 1777. The artist was also present
at the " Surrender of Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown," portrayed in the third painting,
where the British are marching between the lines of the American and French allies.
The fourth of the series is ' ' The Resignation of Washington " as commander-in-chief
of the American armies, which took place, closely as depicted, at Annapolis on Decem
ber 23, 1783, where Congress was then in session in the old Maryland State House.
The commission he then surrendered is preserved in the Department of State, and the
coat worn by Washington upon this occasion may be seen at the National Museum.
Above each of the eight paintings are panels with arabesque designs by Causici and
Capellano, containing medallion heads of the four great pioneers of American discov
ery — Columbus, Raleigh, Cabot, and La Salle. They were done in 1827, and cost
$9,500. The frieze, ten feet wide, just beneath the gallery, was left blank for many years;
but in 1878 the talented Brumidi began a series of paintings intended to encircle the
room (300 feet) and to carry out the historical theme to which all the
Rotunda rotunda decorations conform. They are chiaroscuro drawings in distem-
Frieze. per— that is, expressed merely in light and shade and painted with a
glutinous medium upon the plaster. A procession of somewhat conven
tional figures in strong relief, imitating the alto-relievos which, the architect had
intended to place here, beginning over the western door and progressing to the right
(north) and so on around, marches through the cardinal scenes in American progress.
Brumidi had completed less than half of the circle when he died, in 1880. The work
was then continued by his Italian assistant, Costagini, but is not yet completed. The
estimated expense of so decorating this frieze was $10,000 — the favorite congressional
figure for art pioces — and it has often been spent to worse advantage than here.
On the canopy of the dome is Brumidi's* masterpiece, "The Apotheosis of Wash-

* Constantino Brumidi was born in Rome in 1805, studied art, and became a member of the Acad
emy at thirteen. He painted frescoes in several Eoman palaces, and worlced in the Vatican for three
years under Gregory XVI. The ti-adition is that he became involved in the European revolution of
1848, and was thrown into prison, whence he was freed, on account of his reputation by the influence
of Pius IX, but was banished from Italy. At any rate, after tbe French toolj possession of Rome he
came to America, where he remained until 18.54, and then went to Mexico to do frescoes Returning
to Washington, he was employed to take charge of the mural decorations of the Capitol He beean
with the room of the House Committee on Agriculture, and these pictures are said to have been the
first fre.5C0es in the United States. He also did frescoes for St. Stephen's Church in New York and for

A TOUE OF THE CAPITOL.

23

;.:|

p w

^

¦vt'

^

.'V* ^^5^

¦4^^ #}

'.¦" .Is,,,, ; .1

DISCOVERY OF THE lUllSSISSIPPI,— Painting by Wm. H. Poweli. Rotunda.

SiGNING THE DECLARATiON ,0F INDEPENDENCE.— Painting by Jolin Trumbuil. Rotunda.

the Philadelphia Cathedral. His death, in 18S0, followed an injury received upon the scaffold while
painting the frieze of the rotunda. His work is strong in draiving, excellent m idea, and brilhant in
color, and is in the style of the best Italian methods. Whenever he represented a stated event or included
a portrait he took great pains that it should be truthful.

24

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON'.

ington. " Glasses will help one to study it from the floor, but it should be examined
from the gallery to be appreciated. The artist worked upon it several years, and the
cost was nearly $50,000, of which Brumidi received $39,500, and an exceedingly skillful
and beautifying result was obtained.
The central figure is Washington, with Freedom and Victory at his right and left,
and around them are female figures to represent the original States of the Union. The
border of the canopy contains six groups of emblematic figures, repre-
Brumidi's senting the Fall of Tyranny, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the
Canopy. Marine, and the Arts and Sciences. The painting is glowing with color,
and every portion of it is finished in a very careful manner.
The ascent of the dome may be made by a stairway ( 876 steps ) opening from the
passage to the Senate wing, and it is possible to climb even to the foot of the statue.
Visitors are ordinarily contented, however, to stop at the great galleries, exterior and
interior, which encircle the base of the dome. The view thence is an exceedingly
wide and interesting one, but differs little from that obtained from the summit of the

Washington Monument which
few persons, therefore, climb
' ' The huge dome," sa^ s
beauty far above the
c r 0 wm
The Dome, is of
nearly
sheets of iron, securely
on iron ribs, and by
struction the changes
contraction and expan-
f olding and unfolding of <«!
from designs of Thomas
and cost $1,250,000. Eight
struction, so carefully was the
ly protected from the
ofwhite paint, renewed
last for centuries. Its

THE APOTHEOSIS OF WASHINGTON
Painting by Constantino Brumidi.

f m he reached by an elevator ;
these tedious stairways.
Evans, ' 'rising in its classic
main building, is a fitting
to the noble edifice. It
cast iron and weighs
4,000 tons. Large
bolted together, rest
the plan used in its con-
of temperature make its
sion merely 'like the
the hly.' it was built
U Walter of Philadelphia,
\ c lis were required in its con-
woi k done, and as it is thorough-
weather by thick coats
yearly, it is likely to
base consists of a peri

style of thirty-six fluted columns surmounted by an entablature and a balustrade. Then
comes an attic story, and above this the dome proper. At the top is a gallery, sur
rounded by a balustrade, from which may be obtained a magnificent view of the city
and its environs. Rising from the gallery is the 'lantern,' fifteen feet in diameter and
fifty feet high, surrounded by a peristyle. Over the lantern is a globe, and standing on
the globe is the bronze statue of Liberty, designed by Thomas Crawford, and cast at
Bladensburg, Md. It is nineteen feet six inches high, weighs seven and one-half tons,
and cost more than $24,000. It was placed in position December 2, 1863, amid the
salutes from guns in Washington and the surrounding forts, and the cheers of the thou
sands of soldiers."
This statue was lifted to its position in sections, afterward bolted too-ether. The
original plaster model is in the National Museum.
Statues now adorn the rotunda, as follows : Vinnie Ream Hoxie's much-
Rotunda discussed statue of Lincoln, for which Congress paid $15,000 in 1870,
Statues. after a long debate, in which Senator Sumner made an illuminating speech
on the application of art to the Capitol. The statue of Alexander Ham
ilton ( 1756-1804) is by Stone, is dated 1868, and cost $10,000. Another statue by Stone
is that of the Oregon Senator and Union soldier, Col. Edward D. Baker, who was

A TOUE OF THE CAPITOL. 25
killed at Ball's Bluff in 1861. The statue of Jefferson here has the following history,
according to Ben: Perley Poore : ' 'A spirited bronze statue of Jefferson by his admirer!
the French sculptor, David d'Angers, was presented to Congress by Lieut. Uriah P.
Levy, but Congress declined to accept it, and denied it a position in the Capitol. It was
then reverentially taken in charge by two naturalized citizens, stanch Democrats,
and placed on a small pedestal in front of the White House. One of these worshipers of
Jefferson was the public gardener, Jimmy Maher ; the other was John Foy, keeper of
the restaurant in the basement of the Capitol, and famous for his witty sayings." The
fifth is a statue of Gen. U. S. Grant by Franklin Simmons, the gift of the Grand Army
to the United States.
The eastern door of the rotunda opens upon the grand portico of the eastern front.
The carvings above it have been described.
The western door leads to a rear stairway descending a narrow hall to the rear
entrance of the Capitol and Pennsylvania Avenue ; also to a balcony which gives an
exceedingly interesting view toward the river, the Treasury, and northwestward.
The northern door leads to the Supreme Court and onward to the Senate Chamber.
The southern door admits to Statuary Hall and the House of Representatives, in the
southern extension, to which attention may now be directed, as the first step in a general
survey of the Capitol.
Passing through the southern door and a circular vestibule, we emerge into a semi
circular hall ninety-five feet in greatest width, whose ceiling is a half-dome sixty feet
high, beneath which is a spacious gallery filled with the Library of the
House of Representatives. This was the Hall of Representatives of the Original
original Capitol, and as first built it was an oblong rectangular room. In Hall Of
rebuilding it, after the fire of 1814, Latrobe converted it into a semicir- Representa-
cular room, taking as his model, tradition says, an ancient theater in tives.
Greece ; and doubtless it was an extremely beautiful apartment when
fresh in color, lighted at night, and filled with a brilliant assemblage. At the southern
end is a grand airch, supported by columns of Potomac variegated marble (breccia),
with white Italian capitals copied from relics in the ruins of Athens. Many other simi
lar pillars form a colonnade about the room and sustain the profusely paneled ceiling.
The cupola, which admits such poor light as the room now gets, was the work of a
young Italian artist named Bonani, who died soon after, and who took his design from
the Roman Pantheon. The arch is adorned with an 'eagle sculptured from life by Val-
perti, another Italian of high reputation, while a dignified model for a statue of Liberty,
wrought in plaster by Causici in 1829, stands beneath the arch over the former position
of the Speaker's desk. Opposite it, above the entrance door, remains the
famous old marble clock. It is a notable object, and was executed in this Franzoni's
city by C. Franzoni, an Italian sculptor, who died May 12, 1819, but the Clock.
design is said to have been drawn by Latrobe. The theme is the Flight
of Time. The Genius of History is represented as standing gracefully upon the winged
chariot of Progress, which is rolling over a globe belted with the signs of the Zodiac.
History records the incidents of national life as Time overtakes them, and the wheel of
her swift chariot forms the dial of the clock, which is marked with gilded figures.
The House of Representatives used this hall from 1808 until 1814, and then from
1817 to the end of 1857. "Here Clay, Webster, the younger Adams, Calhoun, Randolph,
Cass, Burges, Wise, Forsyth, Corwin, Wright, and many others won reputation for
statesmanship, and made the walls ring with their fiery eloquence. Here were many
fierce and bitter wrangles over vexed questions — turbulent scenes, displays of sectional
feeling; and here also was much legislative action which has gone into history as wise
and beneficial. . , Tbe old hail appeared as (ollovvs in tlje latter years of its use by

26

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

the House: The Speaker's chair and table stood on a rostrum four feet from the floor,
and back of the rostrum were crimson curtains, hanging in folds from the capitals of
the ponderous marble columns which supported the great arch of the hall. The clerk's
desk stood below tbe rostrum, and between the columns were sofas and tables for the
reporters. The Representatives were provided with mahogany desks and wide arm
chairs, which were arranged in concentric circles. The hall could accommodate 250
members. A bronzed iron railing with curtains enclosed the outer row of desks, and
this constituted the bar of the House. Beyond the railing was the members' lobby, and
above the lobby were galleries seating about 500 persons. One of the galleries was
reserved for ladies, and in two of its panels were paintings of Washington and Lafayette,
which now hang in the present hall of the House Under the paintings were large
copies of the Declaration
of Independence in frames
ornamented with national
emblems. The hall was
lighted by a chandelier,
which bung from the cen
ter of the domed ceiling."
It was in this hall that
ex-President John Quincy
Adams, then a Representa
tive for Jlassachusetts, was
prostrated at his desk, on
February 21, 1848, by
paralysis, resulting in his
death two
Death of days later.
Adams. A star set
in the fioor STATUARY HALI  old hall of REPRESENTATIVES.
marks the position of his desk. The gallery is now filled with the overflow of the House
library from the neighboring upper corridor, and the corners beneath, extending back
to the rotunda wall, are occupied by the keeper of the House documents, and by the
Committee on Enrolled Bills and its clerks. An inner office behind the latter is
that of the clerk of the House, and is the room, then assigned to the Speaker, in which
Adams died.
The present use of this room as a hall of memorial statuary is due to a suggestion
from the late Senator Justin S. Morrill, when he was a Representative from Vermont,
which resulted in an invitation by Congress, in 1864, to each State to send marble or
bronze statues of two of her most illustrious sons for permanent preservation.
As a beginning certain statues and busts owned by the Federal Government were
collected here. They include Hubbard's plaster copy of Houdon's statue of Washing
ton, the face of which was modeled from a plaster cast taken by Houdon*
Statuary himself at Mount Vernon in 1785, and Mrs. Fisher Ames' bust of Lincoln,
Hall. upon a pedestal of Aberdeen granite (a gift), for which $2,000 was paid.
Here also will be found a marble bust of Senator J. J. Crittenden
of Kentucky, author of the "Crittenden Compromise" measure and Harrison's

*Jean Antome Houdon, who was a cultivated French sculptor (1741-1888), educated in Paris and
Rome, was employed by the State of Virgmia to make a statue of Washington. He came and <!tn died
his subject, resided for several weeks with the family at Mount Vernon, cist Washinirton's fnce and
then made in Italy the original statue, now In the oapitol at Richmond. It is the most faithful nort rait
in existence of the Father of His Country in his later years. This plaster copy cost $2 000

A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 27
Attorney-General, by Joel T. Hart; and a portrait of Joshua R. Giddings, by Miss
C. L. Ransom.
A few States have sent the effigies called for, and they stand in the dim light as if
petrified with surprise at the miscellaneous company of greatness in which they find
themselves, and the tedium of waiting to be let out. Some are of high merit, but many
are not, and none can be fairly estimated or enjoyed when set up in this gloomy and
echoing hall, like a lot of gravestones exposed for sale in a dealer's warerooms. Follow
ing is a catalogue of these State statues :
California: Gen. James Shields, by Leonard W. Volk.
Conneelicvt: Gov. Jonathan Trumbull (the original "Brother Jonathan," 1710-1785)
and Roger Sherman, one of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence (1721-1793),
both the work of C. B. Ives, and placed here in 1872.
Indiana: Oliver P. Morton, Governor of that State during the Civil War.
Maine: Gov. William King (1768-1852), by Franklin W. Simmons, 1877.
Massachusetts: Gov. John Winthrop (1588-1649) by Richard S. Greenough (a brother
of Horatio Grenough), dated 1876 ; and Samuel Adams (1722-1803), by
Anne Whitney, 1876. State
Michigan: Lewis Cass (1783-1866), Senator and Secretary of State, Statues.
by Daniel Chester French, dated 1887.
Missouri: Sen. Frank P. Blair (1821-1876) ; and Sen. Thomas H. Benton (1782-1858).
New Hampshire: Gen. John Stark (1728-1822); Daniel Webster (1783-1852). Both by
Carl Conrad, after the statues in Concord, IST. H.
New Jersey: Richard Stockton (1730-1781). one of the Signers, in marble; and Gen.
Philip Kearney (1815-1862) in bronze. Both are from models by H. K. Brown.
Neio York: Vice-President George Clinton (1739-1812), by H. K. Brown, and cast by
Wood in Philadelphia in 1873; Chancellor Robert Livingston (1747-1813), by E. D. Pal
mer, cast in Paris in 1874.
Ohio: President James A. Garfield (1831-1881) and Senator and Governor William
Allen. Both are by Charles H. Mehaus.
Pennsylvania: Robert Fulton (1765-1815), who was born in this State, but made his
career elsewhere, by Howard Roberts; and Gen John P. G. Muhlenberg (1746-1807), by
Helen Blanche Nevin.
Rhode Island: Gen. Nathanael Greene (1743-1786), by H. K. Brown, dated 1869; and
Roger Williams (1606-1683), by Franklin Simmons, 18T0.
Vermont: Col. Ethan Allen (1737-1789), a colossal marble figure, dated 1875, by Larkin
G. Mead of that State ; and Senator Jacob Collamer (1791-1865), Taylor's Postmaster-
General, by Hiram Powers.
West Virginia: Senator John M. Kenna, by Alexander Doyle.
Wisconsin: Father James Marquette, missionary-explorer (1637-1675), by
Trentanove. Statuary Hall has surprising acoustic properties, which the Capitol guides have learned,
and apply to the amusement of sightseers and their own profit. Curious echoes, whisp
ers distinct at a distance, and ability to hear what is inaudible to a person
at your elbow, are among the curiosities of sound observable at certain Acoustic
points. One experiment easily tried is for two persons to place their faces Curiosities.
close in the corners of the room beside the pillars of the arch ; they may
speak in a low tone and be heard distinctly, each by the other. The Capitol guides, it
may be remarked, include some very well informed men, who can make themselves of
great use to a stranger in this immense and storied building; and it is the only place in
the city where a professional guide is of any use whatever. The Capitol guides are peu-
mitted to charge 50 cents an hour, but are often cheerfully paid much more.

28 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Leaving Statuary Hall by the door under the arch, you quit the limits of the old
Capitol, and traverse the corridor to the southern or House wing. The principal doors
of the House confront you as you reach the lobby, each guarded, if Con-
House of gress is in session, by doorkeepers, whose business it is to see that none
Representa- enter who have not "the rights of the floor."
tives. The Hall of Representatives (occupied since December 16, 1857) is an
oblong room 139 feet long by 93 wide and 36 high, the "floor" being 115
by 67 feet. The ceiling is a framework of iron, bronzed and gilded, inlaid with glass,
upon which the coats-of-arms of the States are painted, mellowing rather than obscuring
the abundant light. The Speaker's raised desk is against the southern wall, and below
him are the marble desks of the clerks and ofiicial reporters, the latter keeping a steno
graphic record of everything done or said, to be published in The Congressional Secord
next morning. The assistant doorkeeper sits at the Speaker's left, and the sergeant-at-
arms within easy call. This latter officer is the Speaker's policeman — the representative
of the physical force which backs up the civil rule; and his symbol of authority is the
mace, which reposes on a marble pedestal at the right of the Speaker.
"The mace was adopted by the House in the First Congress, and has been in use ever
since. When it is placed on its pedestal, it signifies that the House is in session and
under the Speaker's authority; when it is placed on the floor, that the
IMace. House is in committee of the whole. The mace is a bundle of black rods
fastened with transverse bands of silver, like the Roman /aj.>ces. On its
top is a silver globe surmounted by a silver eagle. When the sergeant-at-arms is execut
ing the commands of the Speaker, he is required to bear aloft the mace in his hands."
Grouped in concentric semicircles are the desks of the Representatives, all small, uni
form, and handsome, those of the Republican party on the Speaker's left and those of the
Democratic party on the right. When a division of the House takes place, all come down
the side aisles into the space in front of the clerk's desk and pass out up the central aisle
between counting-tellers. Over the Speaker's head is the press gallery, and doors lead
to the lobby and retiring-rooms in the rear. Beneath the galleries, in rear of the Repre
sentatives' desks, are "cloakrooms" — small apartments where the Members not only
hang up their hats and overcoats, but smo'ie and talk beyond the hubbub of the House.
The galleries (reached from the next floor) are divided into sections, some of which
are devoted to ladies and others reserved for diplomats, friends of Congressmen, etc.
The doorkeepers will give anyone who asks for it a plan of the House
House showing where the Representatives are seated. Twelve hundred persons
Galleries. may be crowded into these galleries.
The Hall of Representatives is a" business-like room — elegant but not
over-ornamented. It is carpeted and draped in warm colors, but the prevailing tone of
the decoration is white and gold. At the right of the chair hangs a full-length portrait
of Washington as President, by Vanderlyn, ordered by Congress in 1833, to signalize
the hundredth anniversary of Washington's birth, and delivered in 1834, at the price of
$2,500. On the left is Ary Scheffer's portrait of Lafayette, painted in
Paintings. 1832, and presented to Congress by that artist in 1834. The panel at the
right of the "Washington" is taken by Bierstadt's painting of the "Settle
ment of California," while occupying the corresponding panel on the west, adjoining
the "Lafayette," is the "Discovery of the Hudson " by the same artist, who was paid
$10,000 for each. Adjoining the last named is a fresco by Brumidi, representing Wash
ington treating with Cornwallis for the surrender of his army at Yorktown — a gift to
Congress from this painter. * «•'»
Corridors surround the House, paved with Minton tiles, wainscoted with marble,
and having decorated ceilings and other adornments. Turning to the right (west) at

A TOUR OP THE CAPITOL.

29

the entrance, you find, just beyond the corner, the Western Grand Staircase, leading to
the attic story or gallery floor.
This staircase is double, with massive balustrades of polished Tennessee marble,
and is lighted from the roof through stained glass. At the foot is a bronze bust
of a Chippewa Chief, Bee-she-kee or The Buffalo, modeled from life in
1855 by Vincenti. The opposite wall is largely covered by the fresco by Western
Leutze, representing western emigration under the title "Westward, Ho !" Grand
The action in the 'figures is the best part of the composition, for which Staircase.
$20,000 was paid. Strips of wall beside the picture are highly decorated.
That on the right contains a portrait of Daniel Boone, as a typical explorer, and the

THE HALL OF THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES.
motto: "The spirit grows with its allotted spaces ; the mind is narrowed in a nar
row sphere." That on the left has a portrait of Col. William Clark, to whose energetic
action the United States mainly owes its early possession of the Ohio Valley, with a
familiar misquotation from Jonathan M. Sewall, which should read :
No pent-up Utica contracts your powers,
But the whole boundless continent is yours.
Beneath Leutze's fresco is a similarly treated sketch by Bierstadt, of the Golden Gate,
or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, California.
The rooms beyond the staircase are offices of the clerks of the House, and the fourth
(in the corner) is the Speaker's room. An elevator is near here.
Turning down the corridor, across, the southern end of the wing and in rear of
the hall, the handsome retiring-rooms of the Representatives are passed ;
and at the end, opposite the basement stairs, is the House Lobby. Bronze
This basement stairway is one of the four beautiful, bronze-railed Stairways.
private stairs leading down to committee-rooms, etc. , on the floor below,
which are found at opposite corners of the halls of both the Senate and the House.

30 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Their balustrades are exquisite works of art in metal, were cast in Philadelphia after
designs by Baudin, and cost something over $500 each. It is worth an effort to
see them.
The House Lobby is richly furnished, and contains many portraits — most of which
are crayon-drawings — of the Speakers of the past, who find themselves in a sort of
legal obscurity delightfully suitable to the mysterious bargains and vague "understand
ings " associated with this apartment, where Congressmen confer with those whom they
choose to admit. This and the adjoining apartments are not open to public inspection
after noon when Congress is in session.
Passing another bronze-railed stairway and turning to the left, three committee-rooms
of great interest are passed on the eastern front of this wing. In the corner is that of
the Committee on Appropriations ; next comes that of Ways and Means, which is richly
frescoed ; and in the farther (northeastern) corner is that of Military Affairs, hung with
a notable collection of paintings of the principal forts of the United States, gathered
by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A. From this corridor the
Eastern Eastern Grand Staircase, similar to the western, ascends to the gallery
Grand floor. At its foot is Powers' statue of Thomas Jefferson, which cost $10,-
Stairway. 000, but is difficult to see. Over the landing hangs Frank B.^Carpen-
ter's painting of the "Signing of the Proclamation of Emancipation,"
by President Lincoln, in the presence of his Cabinet, September 22, 1862, presented to
Congress in 1878 by Mrs, Elizabeth Thompson, who, it is said, paid $25,000 for the pic
ture. Beginning at the left the portraits are : Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War ;
Salmon P. Chase, Secretary of the Treasury; Abraham Lincoln, President; Gideon
Welles, Secretary of the Navy; William H. Seward (seated). Secretary of State; Caleb B.
Smith, Secretary of the Interior; Montgomery Blair, Postmaster-General; Edward Bates,
Attorney- General. Mr. Carpenter was for a considerable time an inmate of Lincoln's
family at the White House, and has written many interesting reminiscences of that time.
Ascending to the attic fioor we may again make the circuit of this wing through cor
ridors whose inner doors open into the galleries of the House. At the top of the staircase
hangs a full-length portrait of Henry Clay, painted by Neagle in 1843 for
Portraits. the family, and regarded by Mr. Clay as the best portrait made of him.
It is flanked on one side by a portrait of Charles Carroll of CarroUton, the
last survivor of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, painted by Chester Har
ding, a contemporary and rival of Gilbert Stuart, and on, the other side by a portrait
of Gunning Bedford, a member of the Continental Congress from Delaware, painted by
Gilbert Stuart and presented by his family.
Turning the corner toward the left we walk along the corridor in the rear of the
House galleries, the distribution of which is indicated by labels over the doors. The
most conspicuous compartment is that devoted to the press, which has a broad space over
the Speaker's head and facing the House; it is fitted with desks, and gov-
House erned by stringent rules made by a committee of correspondents. More
Galleries. than half of the gallery, with seats for some 500 persons, is open to the
public, which may come and go at will; portions 'of this are nominally
reserved for ladies; but gentlemen with them may also enter. A private room for ladies,
with a woman attendant, will be found in the south front. Certain rooms on this floor
are devoted to House committees and , other ofiicial purposes, and the second story of
the corridor connecting this gallery with that of Statuary Hall is filled with the House's
file of public documents, bound uniformly in sheepskin, and now numbering nearly
150,000 volumes. The early records of Congress are very valuable. The only picture
here is that of Chief Justice Marshall, which hangs opposite the head of the western
staircase, and is an excellent full-length painted by R. N. Brooke in 1880.

A TOUR OP THE OAPITOL.

31

The basement of the House, to which an elevator makes a convenient descent, con
tains the House post office (southeast corner); committee and clerks'
rooms, of which several are elaborately frescoed ; a public restaurant (at HoUse
the foot of the eastern staircase); elaborate bathrooms for Representa- Basement.
tives, and public lavatories for men (at the foot of the western stairway).
The room of the Committee on Agriculture was decorated by Brumidi, as his intro
ductory work, with what some critics have pronounced the best frescoes in the building.
They represent Cincinnatus called from his fields to be dictator, and Putnam going
from his plow to be a general in the Continental army. There are also sketches con
trasting harvests in ancient and modern times, and medallions of Washington and
Jefferson. Figures of Flora (spring), Ceres (summer), Bacchus (autumn), and Boreas
(winter) accent the decoration of the ceiling. The Committee on Indian Affairs has the
benefit of wall paintings of Indian scenes executed by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman,
U. S. A., whose collection of pictures of forts, largely painted by himself, is preserved
in the room of the House Committee on Military Affairs.
The sub-basement beneath this part of the building contains the elaborate machinery
for heating and ventilating the Hall of Representatives and this wing generally. Fresh
air is drawn in from a remote part of the grounds, and its temperature,
degree of dryness, etc. , are regulated by ingenious machinery, which is Sub-
open to inspection by visitors who wish to descend to the engine-room. basement.
A similar apparatus is in the Senate sub-basement for the service of the
north wing. The central part of the sub-basement is a labyrinth of dark archways used
for storage, when used at all.
A basement corridor extends from end to end of the Capitol on this ground floor, and
furnishes a convenient means of reaching the Senate wing without retracing one's steps.
The white marble pillars will at once attract the eye. The connoisseur will remark that
though of Corinthian mold, their fioriated capitals represent leaves of American plants,
especially tobacco. This was a pretty notion of Benj. H. Latrobe, and a still finer exam
ple exists in the Senate vestibule. Half way down this corridor through the basement
(which really is the ground fioor, numerous doors opening directly upon
the plaza and terrace), we come to the crypt, an apartment formed of Crypt.
the spaces between the forty Doric columns that support the massive
brick arches upon which is laid the floor of the rotunda; a star in the pavement marks

WESTWARD, HO!— WESTWARD THE COURSE OF EMPIRE TAKES ITS WAY.— Painting by Ennanuel Leutze.

32 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
the center of the building immediately beneath the dome. A large part of the crypt
has been walled off for storage of documents. A passage to the left leads out to the
western entrance and upstairs into the rotunda; and another leads to the basement doors
under the grand portico of the eastern front.
The Undercroft is the name applied to the vault beneath the crypt, intended by the
founders of the Republic as the mausoleum of Washington and. his
Undercroft. family ; but these good people preferred to be buried at Mount Vernon,
and the undercroft remains empty.
Passing onward, a few steps take one past the light-shaft to the door (on the right) of
the old Supreme Court Chamber, immediately under the present chamber. It was in
this room, now filled with the exceedingly valuable law library of the court, that all the
great cases were heard previous to 1857. It was injured by fire in 1898. A few steps
farther carry one out of the old main building and into the basement of
Senate the Senate wing. Here there is a public restaurant, public lavatories for
Basement. both men and women, and many offices and committee-rooms. All the
corridors and vestibules at this end are well lighted, and the walls and
ceilings are very profusely and elaborately decorated with mural designs in the Italian
manner, daintily drawn and brightly colored. Among them are many portraits of early
American men of note, in medallions, and a long series of charming drawings in colors
of North American birds, small mammals, and flowers. The vestibule of the Senate
post office, in the northwest corner, is particularly picturesque, having over the "post-
office door a large painting of Fulton, pointing, as if from a balcony, to his first steam
boat, the Claremont, passing the Palisades of the Hudson. The door of the Committee
on Post Office Affairs is suitably indicated by a sprightly picture of Franklin, who
organized the American Post Office ; while over the opposite door is a likeness of Fitch,
Fulton's competitor in developing the idea of steam navigation.
Other especially flue frescoes are to be seen in the rooms of the Senate committees on
Indian Affairs, Naval Affairs, Military Affairs (where Revolutionary battles are pictured
in glorious colors), and Foreign Affairs ; the doors of the latter and of the
Frescoes in Committee on Patents are further distinguished by frescoes by Brumidi
Committee above the lintels — in the former case "The Signing of the Treaty of
Rooms. Ghent," and in the latter a full-length picture of Robert Fulton. The
rendering over and over in painting and carving of the same subjects and
faces is one of the peculiarities of the unsystematic and ununiform embellishment of the
Capitol. The room of the Senate Committee on Public Lands contains the painting
"The Recall of Columbus," by Aug. G. Heaton, which used to hang in the corridor of
the Senate galleries.
A stairway or an elevator at either the eastern or western end of the main corridor will
take one up to the main story of the Senate wing. Here, as in the southern wing, corridors
extend completely around the Senate Chamber, which occupies the center of this wing.
The Senate Chamber is 113 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 36 feet high, including the
galleries, which extend all around and will accommodate about 1,000 persons. The
space under the galleries on the east, west, and south sides is partitioned into cloak
rooms for the Senators, while on the north side is the Senate lobby. The area of the
floor is diminished by these rooms to 84 feet long by 51 wide.
The flat ceiling of iron girders inclosing broad panels of glass, painted with
Senate emblems of the Union, Progress, the Army, the Navy, the Mechanic Arts,
Chamber. etc., admits a soft light day and night. The marble walls are paneled
by pilasters in couples, and the doors are of choice mahogany. The
carpet is usually green, setting off well the mahogany desks of quaint pattern, which,
with the chairs, are now uniform, and the profuse gilding about the walls and ceiling.

A TOUR OP THE OAPITOL.

33

Each desk bears a silver plate with the occupant's name. A Senator keeps a desk
only during a single Congress, drawing lots at the beginning of the next for a choice of
seats — the Republicans sitting at the left and the Democrats at the right of the presid-

THE SENATE CHAMBER.
ing officer. Some desks are old and historic, being the same at which Senators distin
guished in the eai'ly history of the Republic sat or delivered their forensic thunders.
The President of the Senate is the Vice-President of the United States. He sits
upon a platform within an arched niche and behind a broad desk. His chair is high
backed and a magnificent piece of carved mahogany, a gift to Vice-President Hobart.
At his right is the Sergeant-at-Arms, and at his left the Assistant Doorkeeper. In front
of him, a step lower down, is the desk of the Senate clerks, and in front of that, on the
floor of the arena, the tables of the official reporters. The press gallery
is behind the President, and facing him are the galleries reserved for the Senate
Diplomatic Corps and for Senators' families. The end galleries are open Galleries.
to the public, the eastern one being set apart for women, who will find a
convenient parlor and retiring-room, with a woman attendant, at its northern extremity.
A plan of the Senators' seats may be obtained from the doorkeepers.
Busts of all the Vice-Presidents are being placed in niches in the walls, of which
the following is a roster, with the names of the sculptors :
John Adams (Daniel C. French), Thomas Jefferson (M. Ezekiel), Aaron Burr (Jacques
Joavenal), George Clinton (Victor A. Crane), Elbridge Gerry (Herbert
Adams), Daniel Tompkins (C. H. Niehaus), Mp.rtin Van Buren (U. S. J. BustS of
Dunbar), George M. Dallas (H. J. EUicott), Hannibal Hamlin (Franklin Vice-
Simmons), Heniy Wilson (Daniel 0. French), W. A. Wheeler (Edwin Presidents.
Potter), Chester A. Arthur (Aug. St. Gaudens), Thomas A. Hendricks
(U. S. J. Dunbar), Levi P. Morton (F. Edwin Elwell), Adlai E. Stevenson (Franklin
Simmons), John C. Calhoun, and R. M. Johnson.
8

34 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Outside the Senate Chamber many interesting things are to be seen on the mam
floor. Turning to the right from the main or rotunda entrance to the wing (and to the
fioor of the chamber), you find on the end wall a famous portrait (head) of Washington
by Gilbert Stuart, which was bought by Congress in 1876, from ex-Senator Chestnut
of South Carolina, for $1,200. Opposite it is a bright portrait of John Adams, copied
by Andrews from Gilbert Stuart. Passing through the door between
Eastern these portraits, and turning to the left, 'you come to the magnificent east-
Staircase. ern staircase of Tennessee marble, illuminated by a rich skylight of
stained glass. At its foot stands Powers' marble statue of Benjamin
Franklin, which cost $10,000. The wall of the sta'r landing bears Powell's striking
painting (an enlarged copy, for which $25,000 was paid by contract in 1873, of an earlier
picture, 1863, made by Powell for the State, of Ohio) of Com. Oliver P. Perry at the
battle of Lake Erie, in 1810, transferring himself and his flag from his sinking flagship
" Lawrence " to the "Niagara," in which he won a signal victory.
This transfer was made under fire. Perry's younger brother, Matthew (who after
ward opened Japan to the world), was then a midshipman, and is depicted here as
entreating his brother and commander not to expose himself so recklessly. The faces
of the sailors were drawn from once well-known employes about the Capitol.
Just beyond the staircase is a noble vestibule, with coupled columns, having Corin
thian capitals, designed by Latrobe, though usually credited to Jefferson, composed
of a most graceful arrangement of Indian corn and tobacco leaves in place of the con
ventional acanthus. They are of white marble, but the walls are of scagliola. A bust
of President John Tyler is the only ornament. This vestibule (where there is an elevator)
opens upon the eastern portico through the Senate Bronze Doors designed by Thomas
Crawford, cast by J. T. Ames at Chicopee, Mass., and set up here in 1868.
These doors are equally interesting, and the workmanship is as fine as is that of
the Rogers doors. The upper panel of each valve (one of which represents War and the
other Peace, as typified in the figures in the foot-panel of each half) con-
Crawford tains a star surrounded by oak leaves, and acts as a ventilator. There are
Bronze Doors, six panels, constituting the body of the door, in which are represented,
in alto-relievo, events connected with the Revolution, the foundation of
our Government, and the erection of the Capitol, chronologically as follows: The battles
of Bunker Hill, Monmouth, and Yorktown; the welcome of Washington in Trenton on
his way to New York in 1789 (the same panel contains portraits of the sculptor, his wife,
three children, and of Rogers, the sculptor of the main door); the inauguration of Wash
ington in 1789, and the laying of the corner-stone of the Capitol, September 18, 1793. The
prominent figures are all likenesses. In the inauguration scene John Adams stands on
Washington's right; Chancellor Livingston administers the oath, and Mr. Otis holds the
Bible. The remaining figures are Alexander Hamilton, Generals Knox and St, Clair,
Roger Sherman, and Baron Steuben. The frame over the door is supported by enriched
brackets. The ornamentation is scroll-work and acanthus, with the cotton boll, stalks
and ears of corn, grapes, and entwining vines. Above the door are two sculptured
figures in American marble representing Justice and History by Crawford, whose price
was $8,000. It will be remembered, also, that Crawford designed the figures that fill the
pediment of this portico. This bronze door was his latest work; he was paid $6,000
for the designs, and William H. Rinehart was given $8,940 for the plaster model, while
the casting (14, 000 pounds) cost $50, 500.
Returning into the vestibule, it is well to turn aside through the first door, at the
right, and see Brumidi's excellent frescoes in the room of the'Senate Committee on the
District of Columbia. This was originally assigned to be the Senate post office, whence
the artist's choice of History, Geography, Physics, and the Telegraph as subjects for his

A TOUR OP THE OAPITOL.

35

brush. The figures in each design are large and strikingly drawn, and the decorative
accessories are most pleasing.
This vestibule opens at its inner end on the right into the Senate Reception-room, an
apartment sixty feet long, but divided by an arch, where Senators receive callers —
especially ladies — upon business. It is gaudily ornate. The floor is of
Minton tiles, and the walls are covered with rococo designs in stucco, in Reception-
high relief, and heavily gilded. The vaulted ceiling has also many ' room.
gilded stucco ornaments, and certain panels are embellished with allegor
ical frescoes by Brumidi entitled "Liberty," "Plenty," "Peace," "War," "Pru
dence," "Justice," " Temperance," and "Strength"; while an excellently drawn and
brilliantly colored mural painting, under the arch on the south wall, depicts Washington
in conference with Jefferson and Hamilton — one of the best things in the Capitol.
This room opens eastwardly into the office of the sergeant-at-arms, where a very large
ceiling painting is visible, and westwardly it opens into the lobby.
In the Senate Lobby, entering from the public reception-room, as above noted, the
first door at the right opens into the Vice-President's Room, where Henry Wilson died,
November 22, 1875, and whose bust by Daniel C. French remains here as a memento.
The next door admits to the Marble Room — a large senatorial reception
or withdrawing room, popularly so called because every part of its Vice-
interior is formed of variegated and sculptured marbles, all from East President's
Tennessee except the white Italian capitals and ceilings. Here the "grave and IMarble
and reverend" Senators hold consultations at ease, or receive their Rooms.
more privileged guests. Luxurious chairs, soft sofas, warm rugs, and
lace curtains abound, and the room is dazzling at night when all the lights are aglow.
The self-registering thermometers, barometers, wind-indicators, etc., to be seen here,
furnish a branch station of the U. S. Weather Service ; and the officer in charge records
the phases of the weather all over the country upon the glass face of a
map in a most interesting way. The House enjoys a similar substation. Weather
Next west of this splendid saloon is the President's room, another ornate Service.
apartment where it has been the custom since Andrew Johnson's time
(except in Cleveland's case) for Presidents to sit during the last day of a congressional
session, in order to be ready
to sign bills requiring an
immediate signature. This
room is brilliantly deco
rated, including medallion
portraits of
President President's
Washington Room.
and promi
nent members of his first
Cabinet — Thomas Jeffer
son, Secretary of State ;
Henry Knox, Secretary of
War; Alexander Hamilton,
Secretary of the Treasury ;
Edmund Randolph, Attor
ney-General, and Samuel
Osgood, Postmaster-
.General. The four corner-
frescoes overhead represent

PERRY AT THE BATTLE OF LAKE ERIE.
Painting by Powell. Eastern Staircase.

36

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

Columbus (Discovery), Ves-
pucius (Exploration),
Franklin (History), and
William Brewster (Reli
gion). Between these are
symbolic figures of Liberty,
Legislation, Religion, and
Executive Power. All this
work is by the versatile
Brumidi, and in his best
vein. The tiling of this
and of the adjoining rooms
is covered in winter by
rich carpeting.
This lobby and the
three rooms last named are
not visible the grand CAfJON of the Yellowstone.
Western during Ses- Painting by Thomas Moran.
Staircase. slons of Congress, except by the courtesy of some Senator. The rooms
opening from the corridor west of the Senate Chamber belong to the
clerks and certain committees and call for no special remark. The visitor may there
fore pass on at once to the Western Grand Staircase of white American marble and
ascend to the gallery floor.
Dr. Horatio Stone's
statue of John Hancock
stands at the foot of this
staircase. It was sculptured
in 1861, and bought for
$5,500. On the wall of the
landing is the large paint
ing, by Walker, of the
' ' Storming of Chepultepec"
(captured by Scott's army
on September 13, 1847, dur
ing the Mexican War), for
which $6,000 was paid.
Roose says that it was "orig
inally painted for a panel
in the Committee-room of
Military Affairs of the House, and doubtless will eventually be placed there." At the
head of the stairway hangs a full-length portrait of Washington, by Charles Wilson Peale,
painted in 1779, the first sittings for which were given at Valley Forge.
This west corridor admits one to the gentlemen's and to one of the reserved
Senate galleries of the Senate, and to numerous committee-rooms. The rooms
Galleries. in the northern front of the wing, behind the press gallery, are not public.
Turning to the right from the elevator, or from the head of the stairs, let
us walk around through the south corridor, whose doors admit to the Senate galleries,
to the head of the eastern
grand stairway. Beyond the
stairway are two of the most
interesting rooms in the
building, a hall looking
out upon the plaza, and
another, adjoining, having a
delightful prospect north
ward. These rooms not only
contain fine tiling and mural
decorations, but some nota
ble paintings. In the former
are a portrait of John C.
Calhoun, and Moran's cele
brated pictures of the canons
of the Colorado and of the
Yellowstone, which were THE chasm of the Colorado,— Painting by Thomas Moran,

THE FIRST fight OF THE IRONCLADS.
Painting by W. F. Halsall. Lobby of Senate Gallery,

A TOUR OP THE OAPITOL.

87

painted from actual studies, and sold to the Government for $10,000 each. Those famil
iar with these marvelous regions of the country know that the coloring is by no means
too vivid, and that the drawing is highly expressive. This room opens into the gallery
for Senators' families, the first and second seats of which are reserved for the President
and Vice-Presideiit, and their friends.
The adjoining hall (from which opens a ladies' retiring-room, with a woman attend
ant) has the painting representing the encounter between the Monitor and Merrimac,
painted by
Halsall, and Paintings
purchased and
in 1877 for Portraits.
$15,000, the
only exception to the rule
that no reminder of the
Civil War shall be placed
in the Capitol, an exception
due to the fact that this
was in reality a drawn
battle, where the courage
of the contestants was con
spicuously equal, and
where the naval methods
of the world were revolu
tionized. Its historical
interest is therefore world
wide. Here also are por
traits of Lincoln and Gar
field, in Italian mosaic, the
gift of Signer Salviati of
Venice, Italy; a portrait
THE ELECTORAL COMMISSION. of Charles Sumner; by W.
Painting by Mrs. Cornelia A. Fassett. In Lobby of Senate Gallery. Tntrnlls dated 1870- and
one of Gen. John A. Dix, by Imogene Robinson Morrell, dated 1883. It was John A. Dix,
afterward a Major-General, Senator, and Governor of New York, who, when Secretary of
the Treasury in 1861, sent to one of his special agents in Louisiana the famous order con
taining the words : "If anyone attempts to haul down the American flag shoot him on
the spot," which so thrilled patriotic hearts. Here also are several busts
of high artistic excellence, as well as historic interest. These are of Kos- BUStS.
ciusko, the Hungarian patriot, by H. D. Saunders; of Count Pulaski,
Polish soldier of the Revolution, by H. D. Mochowski ; of Thomas Crawford, the
sculptor, by Gogliardi, and a marble head of Bee-Shee-Kee, a Chippewa Indian,
A small special elevator makes this room directly accessible from the basement ; and
descending by it, or by the eastern grand stairway, to the main floor, one walks to the
main corridor, where, upon the wall at the western end, hang beautiful portraits of
Thomas Jefferson, a copy from an original by Thomas Sully, and of Patrick Henry, a
copy by Matthews, from an original by Sully, an eminent painter of portraits and his
torical pictures, who died in Boston in 1872. The portraits on the eastern wall have
already been described. The survey of the Senate wing has now been finished, and the
Supreme Court Chamber is next to be inspected. This is reached by the main passage
way leading from the Senate to the rotunda. , Here, as soon as the older part of the
building is entered, one comes to the door of the Supreme Court, guarded by an
attendant who will admit visitors upon all proper occasions.
Beginning with the resort of the populace in the rotunda, the visitor has
now inspected in succession the halls of the lower and vpper house of Congress,
and now concludes with the tribunal which passes upon the validity of the laws they
pass. -To sit at the rear of this old hall when the court is in session, as happens five
days in the week, during the greater part of the year, is an impressive experience.
The Supreme Court of the United States now occupies the chamber
in the old Oapitol designed for the Senate, and OQcu^ied by that body Supreme
from 1800 until the completion of the new wing inY859. Previously it Court.
sat in the hall, prepared for it, beneath this one.
This chamber was designed by Latrobe, and its general resemblance to the old Hall
of Representatives (Statuary Hall) will be noted , but it is smaller, measuring 75 by 45
feet wide, and 45 feet high to the zenith of the low half -dome. Beneath the wide arch of

38

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

SUPREME COURT CHAMBER.
the rear wall is a row of columns of variegated gray Potomac marble, with white Ionic capi
tals, in the center of which was placed the chair of the President of the Senate, draped, as
now, by crimson curtains and surmounted by a hovering eagle. On the dais below him
were the desks of the clerks, where now stands the long "bench" of the most august
court in the land. At the right of the "bench" is the clerk of the court, at the left the
Marshal ; and the tables of the Attorney-General, official reporters, stenographers, and
counsel legally admitted to practice here, occupy the semicircular carpeted "bar"
formerly covered by the desks of Senators. In the rear are public seats ; but the light
iron galleries formerly built overhead have been removed, and the walls, with their mar
ble pilasters and busts of past Chief Justices, are now wholly visible. The list of busts
is as follows : At the left of the clock (as you face the Court), (1) John
Busts of Jay (1789 to 1795). (2) Oliver Ellsworth (1796 to 1799). (8) Roger B.
Justices. Taney (1835 to 1S64). (4) Morrisson R. Waite (1874 to 1888). On the
right of the clock : (1) John Rutledge (an Associate Justice nominated in
1795, but never confirmed). (3) John Marshall (1801 to 1835). (3) Salmon P. Chase
(1865 to 1873). The Justices, who, upon court days, enter in procession precisely at
noon, wearing the voluminous black silk gowns which alone remain in the United
States of the traditional costume of the English judiciary, sit in a prescribed order of
seniority. In the center is the Chief Justice ; upon his right hand is the Associate Jus
tice longest in service, and beyond him' the second, third, and fourth ; and then, upon
the left of the Chief justice, the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth, or youngest in rank
of appointment. The court is at present composed as follows, in order of seniority:
The Chief Justice, Melville W. Fuller, appointed in 1888 ; Associate Justices, John M.
Harian, 1877 ; Horace Gray, 1881 ; David J. Brewer, 1889 ; Henry B. Brown, 1891 ;
George Shiras, Jr., 1893; Edward D. White, 1894; Rufus Peckham, 1895; and Joseph
McKenna, 1898.
The robing-room, where the Justices meet informally and don their robes, is a hand
some parlor, with much antique furniture, west of the corridor, and is adorned with
some notable portraits of the Chief Justices of the past.
Robing- The portrait of John Jay, by Gilbert Stuart, represents him arrayed in a
room. black satin robe with broad scarlet facings. It was a gift to the court by
his grandson, John Jay, late Minister to Austria. That of Taney, by Healy,
was presented by the Washington Bar Association. The portrait of Chief Justice

A TOUR OF THE OAPITOL.

39

Marehall is by Rembrandt Peale, and was presented to Chief Justice Chase by the Bar
of New York, and at his death was bequeathed by him to the Supreme Court.
Neighboring rooms arc devoted to court officers and clerks. The entrance to the
Senate Library, on the floor above, is nearly opposite to the Supreme Court.
A short corridor (from which opens the winding stairway that leads to the top of the
dome) conducts you from the door of the Supreme Court into the rotunda, and com
pletes the tour of the Capitol.
The western front of the Capitol is directly reached by leaving the rotunda through
the western door and passing downstairs beneath the apartment formerly occupied by
the Library of Congress, when you will emerge upon the terrace.
Looking back, you perceive the pillared and harmonious addition made to the original
design of the building for the accommodation of the Library of Congress. It was first
erected and occupied in 1824, after designs by Latrobe. In 1851 it was
burned out, over 30,000 books and some valuable paintings being lost. Western
Its restoration was immediately begun by Thomas U. Walter, who added Front.
the two side halls, expending $300, 000 in the reconstruction. The library
was moved in 1897 to the magnificent building east of the Capitol grounds described
in the next chapter.
The terrace is a broad esplanade, separated from the basement of the building by a
kind of moat, which permits light and air to enter the lowest story, and adds
largely to the solidity and architectuj'al grandeur of the Capitol when viewed from below.
Underneath this terrace are a series of casemate-like apartments, which were put to a
novel use during the early days orthe Civil War, when this part of the building had
just been put into form.
The Capitol in war time was a citadel. Its halls and committee-rooms were used as
barracks for the soldiers, who barricaded the outer doors with barrels of cement between
the pillars ; its basement galleries were converted into storerooms for army provisions ;
and the vaults under this terrace were converted into bakeries, where 16,000 loaves
of bread were baked every day for many
months. In Harper's excellent " CyolopEe-
dia of United States History," p. 947, may
be seen a picture of this service, with the
smoke pouring out of improvised chim
neys along the outer edge. The ' 'bakeries"
are now clerks' offices and congressional
committee-rooms. Broad flights of stairs, parting right
and left about a fountain, lead down to a
lower terrace, in the center of which is the
bronze sitting figure of Chief Justice John
Marshall. The artist is tbe
renowned American sculp- Marshall
tor, Wm. W. Story, who StatUe.
died in Rome in 1895. This
statue, which was executed in Italy, was
presented to the United States by members
of the bar, while Congress supplied the
pedestal. It was erected in 1884, and cost
^40,000. The Chief Justice, whose por
trait is said to be an excellent one, is rep
resented as seated in his accustomed court
room chair and wearing his official robe,
while his open hand appears to be a gesture
enforcing some evident truth or benign
decision. Each side of the marble pedestal
bears a group in low relief — one, " Minerva
Dictating the Constitution to Young Amer
ica," and the other, "Victory Leading
Young America to Swear Fidelity on the
Altar of the Union."
From this statue broad walks descend to
Pennsylvania Avenue and the Naval Moun-
STATUE OF CHIEF JUSTICE JOHN MARSHALL. ment on the right and to Maryland Avenue
By w. w. Story. and the Garfield Monument on the left.

THE UIBRARY QF CO!

5. — From the Capitol.

42

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

MAIN ENTRANCE

FIRST STORY PLAN.
THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
Floor Plans Prepared under the Direction of Mr. Bernard R. Green, Superintendent
of the Library Building and Grounds.
First Story.

MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
raintinps liv John W. Alexander.
(The Evolution of the Book.)
1. The Cairn.
2, Oral Tradition.
3. Egyptian Hieroglyphics.
4. Picture Writing.
5. The Manuscript Boot.
6. The Printing Press.
Paintings by Charles Sprague
Pearce.
1. The Family.
2. Recreation.
3. Study.
4. Labor.
5. Tieligion.
6. " Give Instruction Unto
Those Who Cannot Pro
cure It for Themselves."
7. Rest.
Paintings by Elihu Vedder.
1. Anarchy,
2. Corrupt Legislation.
3. Government.
4. Good Administration.
5. Peace and Prosperity.

MAIN ENTRANCE HALL
Continued.
Paintings by H. O. Walker.
1. Lyric Poetry.
2. Comus.
3. Adonis.
4. Ganymede.
5. Enclymion.
" The Boy of Winander.
Uriel.
8. "The Poets Who on Earth
Have Made Us Heirs of
Truth and Pure Delight
by Heavenly Lays."
COKRIDOK LEADING SOUTH FKOM
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
Paintings by W. McEwen.

7.

Paris. Jason.Bellerophon. Orpheus.
Perseus.Prometheus.
Theseus. Achilles.
Herculeg.

EEPEESENTATIVES' READING-
ROOM.
Mosaics bv Frederick DIelman.
A Law.
B History.
Ceiling Paintings by Carl Gutherz.
1. Creation of Light.
9. Light of Excellence.
3. Light of Poetry.
4. Light of State.
5. Research. The Light of.
fi. Truth. " "
7. Science. " '*
CORRIDOR LEADING NORTH FROM
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
Paintings by Edward Simmons.
1. Melpomene.
2. Clio.
3. Thalia.
4. i^uterpe.
5. Terpsichore.
6. Erato.
7. Polyhymnia.
8. Urania.
9. Calliope.
NORTHWEST PAVILION.
Paintings by R. L. Dodge.

ijlUKAJii UJ<- OONGEESS.

43

MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
Paintings by Walter Shirlaw.
1. Archeology.
2. Botany.
3. Astronomy.
4. Chemistry.
5. Geology.
6. Mathematics.
7. Physics.
8. Zoology.
Paintings by George K. Barse, Jr.
1. Lyrlca.
2. Tragedy.
3. Comedy.
4. History.
5. Erotica.
6. Tradition.
7. Eancy.
8. Romance.
Paintings by William A. Mackay.
9. Atropos.
10. Lachesls.
11. Clotho.
Paintings by Robert Reld.
1. Taste.
2. Sight.
3. Smell.
4. Hearing.
5. Touch.
6. Wisdom.
7. Understanding.
8. Knowledge.
9. Philosophy.
Paintings by F. W. Benson.
1. Spring.
2. Summer.
3. Autumn.
4. Winter.
5. Aglaia.
6. Thalia.
7. Euphrosyne.

SECOND STORY PLAN.
Second Story.
Pompeilan Panels by G. W. May
nard.
A Fortitude.
B Justice.
C Concordia.
D Industry.
E Patriotism.
F Courage.
G Temperance.
H Prudence.
Paintings by W. B. Van Ingen.
1. L'Allegro.
2. II Penseroso.
Mosaic by Elihu Vedder.
3. Minerva.
CORRIDOR LEADING SOUTH FROM
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
Paintings by Kenyon Cox.
1. The Sciences.
2. The Arts.
SOUTHWEST PAVILION.
Paintings by G. W. Maynard.
1. Adventure.
2. Discovery.
3. Conquest.
4. Civilization,
5. Courage — Valor —Forti
tude—Achievement.
Medallions by Bela L. Pratt.
A Seed.
B Bloom.
C Fruit.
D Decay.
SOUTHEAST PAVILION.
Paintings by R. L- Dodge.
1. Earth.
2. Water
3. _Flre.
4. "Air.

Painting by Elmer E. Garnsey.
5. ceiling Disc.
Medallions by Bela L. Pratt.
A Ver.
B Aestas.
C Auctumnus.
D Hiems.
CORRIDOR LEADING NORTH FKOM
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL.
Paintings by Gari Melchers.
1. War.
2. Peace.
NORTHWEST PAVILION.
Paintings by William de L. Dodge.
1. Science.
2. Art.
3, Music.
4. Literature.
5. Ambition. '
Medallions by Bela L. Pratt.
A Spring.
B Summer.
C Autumn.
D Winter.
NORTHEAST PAVILION.
Paintings by W, B. Van Ingen.
1. Agriculture and Interior
Departments.
2. War and Navy Departments
3. Justice and Post Office De
partments.
4. Treasury and State Depart
ments.
Painting by Elmer E. Garnsey.
5. Ceiling Disc.
Medallions by Bela L. Pratt.
A Spring.
B Summer.
C Autumn.
D Winter.

---^Ijfe.;

-*•-«' y

' MINERVA."— Marble Mosaic by Elihu Veddor.
I

III.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

The Library of Congress,
which originated with the
purchase in

London in
1803 of some
3,000 books
of reference.

-Main Entrance.

Origin of
Library.
was used as
kindling material by the
vandals who gleefully
burned the Capitol and its
records in 1814. A new
foundation was laid by the
purchase of Thomas Jeffer
son's private library, and in
1851 the collection had in
creased to 60,000 volumes,
when half of it, or more,
was again swept away by
Are. After this damage
was repaired by the recon
struction of the western
front of the Capitol, the
growth was rapid, and the
shelf-room speedily over
flowed. The arrangement by
which the library received
and continues to receive all
the publications acquired
by the Smithsonian system
of international exchanges,
the Peter Force* and Doc
tor Toner historical collec
tions of rare books, pam-

BRONZE DOOR "TRADITION."-
By Olin L. Warner.
phlets, engravings, etc., and the steady accumulations under the action of the copy
right law have been the principal nuclei. Congress was very liberal to the library in
its earlier days, and now makes large annual appropriations for its support. It now
contains over 1,000,000 books and pamphlets alone, and nearly half a million pieces
of music, maps, prints, photographs, manuscripts, etc.
* Peter Force was born in 1790, became a prominent printer in New York, and settled in Wash
ington In 1812, where he died in 1868, after a useful life as printer, editor, and publicist. He collected
an immense amount of material for a documentary history of the American colonies and Revolution,
of which nine volumes were published. His collection of documents, manuscripts, pamphlets, pictures,
etc., was bought by the Government for $100,000. 45

46 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOlSr.
This collection is very rich in history, political science, jurisprudence, and books,
pamphlets, and periodicals of American publication, or relating in any way to America
At the same time the library is a universal one in its range, no depart-
Treasiires. ment of literature or science being unrepresented. The public are privi
leged to use the books within the library rooms, while members of Con
gress and about thirty officials of the Government only may take them away. The
library is open every day (Sundays excepted), from 9 o'clock in the morning until 10
o'clock at night, and the evening is an exceedingly favorable time to see it.
As long ago as 1873 efforts were made to provide the library with a separate build
ing ; but it was not until 1897 that this laudable purpose was accomplished. The fact'
t.hat the Librarian has charge (since 1870) of the copyright business of the Government,
ind that this library is given and compelled to receive two copies of every book, picture,
or. other article copyrighted, makes its growth as rapid and steady as the progress of the
American press, and enforces the need for ample space. Innumerable difficulties and
chimerical schemes were overcome before Congress at last purchased — by condemna
tion, for it was covered with dwelling-houses — the present site (ten acres, east of the
Capitol grounds) for a new Library of Congress, paying $58.5,000 for the property.
Work was begun in 1886, but not much was accomplished until 1888-9, when the work
was placed in the hands of Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., under whose '
charge, and the superintendence of Bernard R. Qreen, C. E. , the magnificent edifice was
perfected in 1897. The architectural plans, originally by J. J. Smithmeyer and Paul J.
Pelz, were modified later by E. P. Casey, who completed the building and its decora
tion. As to the interior, Mr. Casey was assisted by Elmer E. Garnsey, in charge of the
color decorations, and by Albert Weinert as to the stucco work ; both gentlemen should
receive credit for much beautiful unsigned work.
The style is Italian renaissance modified ; and the result is one of the noblest edifices
externally, and the most artistic one inside, of all the grand buildings at the Capitol. Its
ground plan is an oblong square, inclosing four courts and a rotunda.
Architec- Its outside dimensions are 470 by 340 feet, and it covers three and three-
ture and quarters acres of ground. The material is Concord (N. H.) granite,
Style. exteriorly, and enameled brick within the courts, while the framework is
of steel, and the walls interiorly are encased and decorated wholly by
stucco and marble. The octagonal rotunda, lighted by the four courts, is built of gray
Maryland granite, and crowned by a roof-dome of copper, the dome heavily gilded, and
terminating, 195 feet above the ground, in a gilded torch of Learning. The general
effect of such a building is of massiveness disproportionate to height, but this is relieved
by " pavilions" at the corners, by elaborate entrances, numerous windows, and the high
ornamentation of the exterior cornices, window-casings, etc.
The decorations are wholly the work of American architects, painters, j
Decorations, and sculptors, more than fifty of whom participated in the work; so that.
the library is an exhibit and memorial of the native art and ability of
the citizens of the United States.
Approaches, Entrance, and Vestibule.
The Approaches and Entrance to the library are on the western front, facing
the Capitol, where a grand staircase leads up to doorways of the central pavilion,
admitting one upon the main floor.
The basement may be entered by a door beneath this staircase, and an
Entrance. elevator will be found by which the visitor may ascend to the top of
the building ; but the most interesting and proper approach Is by
ascending the grand staircase to the main entrance.

ROTUNDA OF PUBLIC READING-ROOM.

50

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

GRAND STAIRCASE.— Main Entrance Hall

A survey of the f a9ade should be made before doing so, not only to gain a general idea
of the architecture, but especially to note the ethnological heads carved upon
the keystones of the thirty-three arched windows, since these are a novel
Racial innovation upon the gorgons, etc., usually employed in such places.
Heads. These heads are studied and accurate types of the principal races of man
kind, modeled by H. J. EUicott and Wm. Boyd, under the criticism of
Prof. O. T. Mason of the National Museum ; they are as important as they are novel, and
are grouped according to kinship.
The first thing to attract attention, however, is the fountain, on the street front of
the staircase, which was designed by R. H. Perry and is the most elaborate, thing of Its
kind in the country. Its broad semicircular basin contains a dozen bronze
Perry figures grouped upon natural rocks half hidden in niches of the terrace.
Fountain. representing a group of Tritons and creatures of the sea attendant upon
Neptune, the presiding genius of the sea-world. From their mouths
or from the "wreathed horns "they are blowing spout jets of water. The central
figure is a colossal image of the kingly old sea-god, and on each side sea-nymphs bestrid
ing spirited sea-horses are heralding his glory. Sea serpents, turtles, abd other denizens
of the deep play about his feet and throw cross-lines of water that catch the sunlight at
every angle. ¦ ;
Passing up the flights of broad granite steps, we see that the frorit'of the central
pavilion consists of three entrance arches, surmounted by a portico, and against its cir
cular upper windows are placed nine portico busts of great literati, as
Portico. follows, beginning on the left : Demosthenes, Scott, Dante (by Herbert
Adams), Goethe, Frankliu, Macaulay (by F. W. Ruckstuhl), Emerson,
Irving, Hawthorne (by J. Scott Hartley). The balustrades bear splendid bronze candel-

THE LIBRARY OP CONGRESS. 51
abra, modeled by Bela L. Pratt, which illuminate the stairway at night ; and the same
sculptor modeled the fine carvings over the throe entrance arches, in which Literature,
Science, and Art (reading, as always in this book, from left to right) typified by pairs of
life-size figures leaning against the curve of the arches, and accompanied by appro
priate symbols — a writing tablet and a book, the torch of knowledge and a globe, and
the mallet of sculpture and palette and brush of painting, respectively.
The bronze doors within the entrance arches admit us to the main Bronze
entrance hall of the Library. These doors are worthy of study, and Doors.
together embody the development of recorded knowledge from prehistoric
oral tradition and bardic tales to the modern preservation of histoiy and science by
printing. The first door, at the left, means Tradition, and its tympanum was modeled by the
late Olin T. Warner, in a manner suggesting a wise woman of prehistoric times relating
the traditions of her ancestors to an eager child. Among her auditors are an American
Indian (whose face is that of Joseph, chief of the Nez Percys), a Norseman, a man of
the stone age, and a shepherd, representative of the pastoral races. Imagination and
Memory are depicted in the panels on the left and right valves of the door itself.
With a similar idea Mr. Warner also figured a woman, over his door at the right,
teaching children the Art of Writing, while the foiir peoples of the world — Egyptian,
Jew, Christian, and Greek — whose literatures have been most influential, are typified in
attentive figures. On the double door are Research at the left, and Truth, with sym
bolic mirror and serpent at the right. This door was unfinished at the time of Mr.
Warner's death and was completed by Adams.
In the tympanum of the central door, by Frederick Macmonnies, is typified tbe Art
of Printing. Minerva, goddess of learning, is sending books to the world by her winged
messengers; while Peg'asus, the embodiment of poetry, and the filial stork and emblems of
the printer's art [ars typographica) are seen at the left and right. The female figures
upon the double door stand for The Humanities and Intellect.
These doors admit the visitor to a corridor stretching along the west front of the
pavilion, forming a vestibule. This extends between piers of Italian marble support-'
ing arches, against which, on heavy brackets, are repeated pairs of figures,
almost detached from the wall — Minerva in War, and Minerva in Peace, Vestibule.
the former bearing a sword and torch, the latter a scroll and globe. The
electric lamp standard between them is a Greek altar. These figures were modeled by
Herbert Adams, and are justly among the most admired ornaments in the whole edifice.
Like the elaborate ceiling, and all other ornaments here, they are modeled in stucco,
which is lavishly touched with gold.
Main Entrance Hall.
Passing on through the screen of arches one enters the Main Entrance Hall. This is a
vast square well, occupying the center of the rectangular pavilion, and containing the mag
nificent stairways that lead to the second floor and to the rotunda gallery.
Its floor is a lovely mosaic of colored marbles, surroundiag a brass- iMain
rayed disk showing the points of the compass ; and this floor, as else- Entrance
where, is made to harmonize in design and tint with the remainder of the Hall.
decoration. The farther (eastern) wall is broken by a noble Ionic door
way, forming a sort of triumphal arch, whose entablature is inscribed with the
names of the builders ; it admits, by a passage described elsewhere, to the Public
Reading-room, and the carved figures (by Warner) on its arch personify Study — on
the left a youth eager to learn, on the right an aged man contemplating the fruits of
knowledge.

62 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Overhead, the hall is open to the roof, seventy-two feet above, where richly tinted
skylights pour a flood of sunshine down upon the shimmering surfaces, giving
an ethereal lightness and beauty to the really massive architecture that is
Martiny peculiarly effective and charming. Everything is white Italian marble.
Sculptures. and lavishly adorned with sculpture, all the work of Philip Martiny. On
either side rise the grand staircases, circling about elaborate newel-posts
that support bronze light-bearers (also modeled by Martiny), and sloping upward beside
piers whose arches are exquisitely adorned with rose wreaths and leafy branches. Each
of the solid balustrades bears a procession of nude figures of infants, or elves, connected
by garlands, and each representing by its symbols some art, industry, or idea. On the
right (south) from the bottom up, go a Mechanician, a Hunter, Bacchus, a Farmer, a
Fisherman, Mars, a Chemist, and a Cook ; on the left, a Gardener, a Naturalist, a
Student, a Printer, a Musician, a Physician, an Electrician, and an Astronomer. Out
side of these, perched upon pilasters of the buttresses (one on each side), are charming
groups ¦ illustrating the continents and their inhabitants by globes showing the Old
World and the New, and their peoples. On the right, or south side of the hall, beside
the map of Africa and America, sit two chubby boys — one in the feather headdress
and other accouterments of an American Indian, and the other showing the dress and
arms of an African. Opposite, beside their globe, are similar boys, personifying Asia,
in Mongolian robes, and Europe, in classic gown surrounded by types of civilization
indicating the pre-eminence of the Caucasian race in Architecture, Literature, and Music.
Figures of children are also set in relief upon the balustrade of the top landing on each
side, those above the south staircase signifying Comedy, Poetry, and Tragedy ; and
those opposite. Painting, Architecture, and Sculpture. All of these little figures are
accompanied by symbolic accessories, so that here, as usually elsewhere in this highly
thoughtful scheme of decoration, close study is required to gain the full extent of the
artist's meaning — study that will be rewarded by a perception of artistic harmony.
The ceiling of the Main Entrance Hall is coved and elaborately ornamented
Ceiling'. with carving and stucco work, among which are placed tablets bearing
the names of illustrious authors, and a great number of symbols of the
arts and sciences. First Floor Halls and Corridors.
Surrounding the Main Entrance Hall runs a rectangle of corridors or halls foiming
vaulted and richly adorned passageways around the interior of the first floor of the
pavilion, and admitting to various rooms. They are paneled in while
First Floor marble to the height of eleven feet ; their floors are laid in harmonious
HallSo patterns of Italian white, Vermont blue, and Tennessee red-brown
marbles, and their vaulted ceilings are covered with marble mosaics
from cartoons by H. T Schladermundt, after designs by E. P. Casey. Hence these
halls are sometimes called the mosaic vaults. Tablets bearing the names of literati,
and various trophies, are also pleasingly introduced ; and at intervals upon the walls
semicircular spaces or tympanums are utilized for some of the most brilliant and inter
esting paintings in the building. It would be well to make the circuit of these halls
before going elsewhere.
The West Hall is the Entrance Vestibule already described.
The South Hall lies at the right of the south staircase, and is beautified by paintings
(in oil on canvas, glued to the wall by a composition of white lead — as is the case with
most of the other mural paintings here) by H. O. Walker, illustrating Lyric Poetry.
The principal one is upon the large tympanum at the east end, and represents Lyric
Poetry standing in a wood striking a lyre, and surrounded by Pathos, Truth (nude of

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

53

"AMERICA AND AFRICA."— Detail of Grand Staircase. Philip Martiny, Sculptor.

'EUROPE AND ASIA."— Detail of Grand Staircase. Philip Martiny, Sculptor.

54

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

Walker Paintings.suggested by

course). Devotion, Beauty, and playful Mirth. In the smaller spaces Mr. Walker
has painted "flushed Ganymede . . . half buried in the eagle's
down," the Endymion of Keats' poem, lying on Mt. Patmos, under
the glance of his lover Diana (the moon); The Boy, of Wordsworth's well-
known poem; Emerson, as typified in his poem "Uriel"; Milton as
"Comus," particularly the lines —
Can any mortal mixture of earth's mold,
Breathe such divine, enchanting ravishment?
The next illustrates the "Adonis" of Shakspere; and a broad border of figures
portraying Wordsworth's lines:
The poets, who on earth have made us heirs
Of truth and pure delight by heavenly lays !
The names tableted on
great lyric poets
"W'hittier, Biy
and Foe (Am
BrDwuin, Byron

this border

are of the
V Lowell,
Whitman,
ican), and

Musset,

LYRIC POETR'

Hugo, Heine, Theocritus, Pindar, Anacreon, Sappho, Catullus, Horace, Petrarch, and
Ronsard. At its east end this hall opens at right angles to the south, where a corridor extends
along the interior of the building, looking out upon the southwest court to the
reading-rooms reserved for Senators and Representatives, and also to
McEwen the public reading-room or periodical room. This corridor was given to
Paintings. Walter McBwen to decorate, and he chose subjects from Greek
mythology.
Each painting gives an incident characterizing a myth, as follows, from north to
south: 1. Pai-is, who won Helen by giving the prize of beauty to Venus, sitting at
her home and Conversing with her father, Menelaus, King of Sparta, preparatory to
taking Helen back with him to Troy.
2. Jason recruiting his Argonauts for the voyage to recover the Golden Fleece,
beneath which is inscribed:
One equal temper of heroic hearts made weak by time and fate.
But strong in will to strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.
3. Bellerophon accepting from Minerva the bridle for his winged horse Pegasus, by
whose aid he is to slay the Chimsera.
4. Orpheus slain by the Moenads, or priestesses of Bacchus, in one of their orgies,
because he would not play upon his marvelous lyre hymns of praise to Bacchus.
A glorious company, the flower of men to serve as model
For the mighty world, and be the fair beginning of a time.
5, Perseus turning to stone Polydetes and his court, by means of the head of the
Gorgon Medusa.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

55

6. Prometheus warning his brother Epimetheus against acceptiug the mischievous
Pandora from the gods; but the admonition was not heeded, Pandora's box was opened,
and all the ills of the world let loose. The inscription is:
To the souls ot Are, I, Pallas Athena, give more fire;
And to those who are manful, a might more than man's.
7. Tlieseus, who had killed the Minotaur and rescued Ariadne from Crete, is here
about to desert her on the island of Naxon at the command of Minerva.
8. Achilles discovered by Ulysses at the court of the King of Scyros, where he had
been sent by his mother to grow up among the women in order to keep him from the
dangers of war. Beneath it are the lines from Byron's ' ' Childe Harold " ¦
Ancient of days, august Athena, where are thy men ot might, thy grand
In soul? Gone — glimmering through the dream of things that were.
9. Hercules in the guise of a woman spinning for Omphale, Queen of Lydia.
The House Reading-room, opening from this corridor, is exclusively for the use
of members of the House of Representatives.
 "No apartment in the library," remarks Mr. Herbert Small, "is more lavishly and
sumptuously orna
mented. The floor
is dark
quar- Represent-
tered atives'
oak; Reading:-
t h e room.
wall s
have a dado of
heavy oak paneling
about eleven feet
high ; and the deep
window arches are
finished entirely in
the same material.
Above the dado the
walls are hung with
olive green silk.
The ceiling is
beamed and pan
eled, and is finished
in gold and colors,
with painted dec
orations in the pan
els, and encrusted
conventional orna
ment in cream white
long the beams.
Over the three doors
are carved oak tym
panums, by Mr.
Charles H. Niehaus,
comprising two de
signs — the first of
a central cartouche

MANTEL
Mosaic Panel

IN HOUSE READING-ROOM.
"History," by Frederick Dielman.

56

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

bearing an owl, and supported on either side by the figure of a seated youth ; the
other, the American Eagle flanked by two cherubs. At either end of the room is a
magnificent mantel of Siena marble. Over the fireplace is a large mosaic panel by
Mr. Frederick Dielman, representing at one end of the room. Law, and at the other.
History. Above is a heavy cornice supported on beautiful columns of Pavanazzo
marble, the general color of which is gray instead of yellow, but with a system of veining
which agrees very well with that of the Siena. In the center of the cornice is a small
cartouche of green
onyx in the mantel
to the south, and of
labradorite or lab-
rador spar in the
other, the latter
stone being re
markable for its ex
quisite gradations
of deep peacock
blue, continually
changing with the
light and the point
from which it is
seen," The mosaics
above the fire
places, from car
toons by Dielman,
were made in Ven
ice, and are super
ior examples of this
exquisite and
peculiar art whose
home is in northern
Italy. They should
be contemplated
thoughtfully. The
ceiling paintings,
by Carl Gutherz,
filling seven panels,
should also be close
ly studied, begin
ning with tbe cen
tral one. The series idealizes the Spectrum of Sunlight. In the center is the first, yellow
— the Creation of Light; second, next north, orange — the Light of Intelligence; third."
red — the Light of Poetry; fourth, violet — Light of State, the United States being
regarded as embodying the highest expression of government, and suitably represented
by the violet color, which is formed by a combination of red, white, and blue ; next in
order (south of the center) follow green — Research ; blue — Truth ; and indigo —
Science. The cherubs in the corner of each panel typify attributes of each subject.
The Senators' Reading-room, at the end of the corridor, fills the corner room of the
building, or Southwest Pavilion, and is another lavishly decorated and furnished apart
ment, as sumptuous as, but somewhat less gaudy than, the reading-room of the House.

MANTEL IN SENATE READING-ROOM.— Panel Dy Herbert Adams.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

57

THE EVOLUTION OF THE BOOK.— By J. W. Alexander. East Corridor.
It is reserved for Senators. The walls are of oak, inlaid with arabesques. Senators'
above which are hangings of red figured silk, while the ornamented Reading'
ceiling is gold, relieved by deep red. A carved panel over the door (by roont.
Adams), and 'a series of figures (by W. A. Mackay), bearing garlands,
gracefully enliven the golden ceiling. This room is visible only as a special privilege.
The Periodical or Public Reading-room occupies the great hall along the south side '
of the building and is entered from this curtain corridor. It is finished in restful sim
plicity, and contains a large series of newspapers from all parts of the
Union and from many foreign countries, and an unrivaled series of Periodical
weekly and monthly periodicals. This room and all its periodiQals are Reading'-
open to the public, without any formality, and one may choose what he room.
will and sit and read as long as he likes.
Returning to the Main Entrance Hall, the next part to be examined is the East Hall,*
in the rear of the staircases, in which are John W. Alexander's paintings, entitled The
Evolution of the Book, a theme treated with great intelligence and force.
The series begins at the south end of the hall with the erection of the Alexander
Cairn — the rudest means prehistoric men took to commemorate an event Paintings.
or transmit the knowledge of something. The next picture illustrates
Oral Tradition— an Arab story-teller of the desert. The third represents an Egyptian
carver of hieroglyphics, at work upon a tomb, while a young girl watches him. These
three are the forerunners of the Book, the later developments of which are depicted oppo-

THE EVOLUTION OF THE BOOK.— By J. W. Alexander. East Corridor.

¦* A ladies' toilet-room wiU be found at its southern end.

58

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

site. Picture-writing, the first step above carved hieroglyphics, is illustrated by an
American Indian painting some tribal record upon a skin ; the next advance is shown by
the figure of a monk, sitting by the window of his cell, laboriously illuminating some
sacred book in the days of the Middle Ages ; and lastly the rise of modern methods
appears in a scene in the shop of Gutenberg, the first printer, who stands examining a
proof sheet, while an assistant looks on and an apprentice works the lever of a primitive
hand press. These are among the most popularly interesting pictures in the library, and
are accompanied by the names of Americans (all born in the United States) distinguished
in arts and sciences, the specialty of each two denoted by trophies. On the pendentives
of the ceiling are inscribed Latrobe and Walter (architecture) ; Cooke and Silliman (natural
philosophy) ; Mason and Gottschalk (music) ; Stuart and Allston (painting) ; Powers and
Crawford (sculpture) ; Bond and Rittenhouse (astronomy) ; Francis and Stevens (engi

neering) ; Emerson and
Dana (natural science)
(mathematics). In
vault are wri
of other
eminent three

Holmes (poetry) ; Say and
Pierce and Bowditch
the mosaic of the
ten the names
Americans in the
\ learned

Theology —
Webster, Hamilton,

GOOD ADMINISTRATION — By Elihu Vedder
professions: Medicine — Cross, Wood, McDowell, Rush, and Warren ;
Brooks, Edwards, Mather, Channing, Beecher ; Law — Curtis,
Kent, Pinkney, Shaw, Taney, Marshall, Story, and Gibson. *
The entrance to the reading-room in the Rotunda leads from this East
Rotunda Hall, through a vestibule (where also is the elevator), adorned in its
Entrance. five tympanums with an impressive series of allegorical paintings by
Elihu Vedder, embodying the idea of government in a manner that has
aroused the highest admiration of all artists, and conveys food for deep thought.
The central jiainting over the reading-room door is a conception of republican Gov
ernment in its noblest estate. That upon its right exhibits how good administration
(the first) leads to peace and prosperity (the second); contrasted with and
Vedder opposite these are two vivid paintings portraying Corrupt Legislation,
Paintings. resulting in Anarchy. Careful study of these pictures will bring out an
instructive comprehension of how wide and subtle was the artist's
thought in regard to each. Thus the ideal of government is typified in the figure
of a grave-faced woman who sits upon a stable throne beneath the shade of the steadfast
oak ; the bridle held by one of the attendant youths signifies the restraint of law, the
books of the other the requirement of intelligence in the citizen. Corrupt legislation
*It should be remarked that almost no names of Uving men are inscribed upon the walls of the
library.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

59

exhibits a woman of careless and corrupt mien, sitting upon a throne whose arms are
cornucopias of money. She rejects the appeal of her poverty-stricken subjects for help,
and in place of the even balance of justice holds a sliding scale that will easily lend
itself to bribery — indicated by the bag of gold a rich man is placing in its pan. The
voting urn is overturned, spilling its neglected ballots, and wealth is piled at the foot of
the throne. In the background the factories of the rich are active and prosperous,
while opposite the industries of the poor are idle. Anarchy is the result of such govern
ment, and is represented raving with torch and wine cup upon the ruins of the State
On the other hand. Good Administration is a benign, yet powerful personage, sitting
upon a seat whose solidity is typified by the arch at its back, dispensing even justice.
At her right, a figure winnows grain above a voting urn, selecting carefully the wheat
(good men) from the chaff in the filling of public offices ; while at her left, an educated
citizenship confirms such ^paMMmrwiMiii-,^ choice by the ballot. The
beneficent sequi-l to -^tfHBi^^SF^IH[^^^S^^^>^ this,
perity. is dis.
of tbe series.
agriculture
der gov
foster-

Pi'iicf mid Pros-
plajed in I lie last
whole aits and
Uouiisli un-
ernmcnt's
1 ng

GOVERNMENT — By Elihu Vedder.
Passing on, now, to the North Hall, the marble stairway descending to the basement
and the door of the Librarian's room are first encountered. The
Librarian's office is a cozy, luxuriously furnished apartment, forming the Librarian's
private office of the Librarian of Congress ; it is finished in oak and Office.
exquisitely decorated by Mr. Holslag and Mr. Weinert, the prevailing
tone of color being a delicate gi'een. This room is not open to those who have no
particular business with the Librarian.
The North Hall is opposite the south one, or at the left of the Pearce
staircases as one enters the front door, and contains a series of seven Paintings.
wall paintings, by Charles S'. Pearce, representing the occupations of the
civilized mind. The most important fills the great panel at the east end, and depicts
an idealization of The Family, under such circumstances as the poets imagine exist in
Arcadia. The father has returned from hunting, and the mother holds out the baby for his
greeting, while other children and the aged parents cease their occupations to join
in the welcome. On the south wall is one picture only — Rest; while opposite, read
ing from left to right, are four, entitled : Religion, Labor, Study, Recreation. An
exquisite border at the end presents artistically an apothegm of Confucius: "Give
instruction unto those who can not procure it for themselves." The whole idea is
of a quiet, rational, uplifted manner of life, and the names accompanying these
scenes are those of the great educators of the world — Froebel, Pestalozzi, Rousseau,
Comenius, Ascham, Howe, Gallaudet, Mann, Arnold, and Spencer.

60 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
The corridor extending from the east end of this hall to the Northwest Pavilion
is richly decorated by a series of idealizations of the Muses, seated figures painted with
singular brightness of color and interest of composition, by Edward
Simmons' Simmons. Beginning at the south end, over the entrance door is:
"Muses." 1. Melpomene, muse of tragedy, enveloped in a swirl of red drapery.
2. Clio, muse of history, with a helmet signifying heroic deeds. 3.
Thalia, muse of comedy and gay pleasure, beside whom dances a little satyr with Pan's
pipes, and who has Pope's lines :
Descend, ye Nine, descend and sing ;
Wake into voice each silent string.
4. Euterpe, muse of lyric poetry, the patroness of the song, as suggested by the
flute. 5. Terpsichore, muse of the choral dance, who strikes the rhythmic cymbals.
Beneath her is the couplet: Oh, Heaven-born sisters, source of art.
Who charm the sense or mend the heart.
6. Erato, muse of love poetry, is nude and has a white rose, 7. Polyhymnia, muse
of sacred song, holds an open book ; and beneath is written the third of Pope's coup
lets : Say, will you bless the bleak Ailantic shore.
And in the West bid Athens rise once more 1
8. Urania shows herself muse of astronomy by her instruments. 9. Calliope, muse
of epic poetry and eloquence, is symbolized by a scroll and peacock feathers.
The Northwest Pavilion, to which this corridor leads, is finished
Dodge's Pom- in a prevailing tone of Pompeilan red, decorated in panels by floating
peiian Dan- figures of Roman dancing girls drawn by R. L. Dodge. Pompeilan bor-
tlng Girls. ders, and a series of signs of the zodiac, placed in the six window bays
by Mr. Thompson, complete the mural decorations.
From this pavilion one enters the large hall on the north side of the building, corre
sponding to the Newspaper and Periodical Room, which is devoted to the storage, con
sultation, and exhibition of maps, charts, and geographical things generally.
Map-room. The library possesses an enormous collection of these, and is bringing
them together as rapidly as possible, and preparing proper furniture and
cases for this extensive and beautiful room, so that the maps and charts may readily be
made use of by students, and so that the most interesting among them may be put
upon public exhibition. Second Story Rooms and Corridors.
Some of the flnest parts of the library are in the second story Ascending the stair
cases you find yourself in a broad arcade surrounding the hall. This is all in white
marble of the same Corinthian style. Lofty coupled columns, with elabo.
Xorinttlian rate acanthus capitals, support joint entablatures, whence spring the
Arcades. groined arches of the ceiling. North and south doorways admit to
magnificent exhibition halls ; the west windows open upon a balcony
overlooking the Capitol grounds and a large part of the city, and on the east a beauti
ful stairway leads to the uppermost galleries of the Rotunda.
A long time may be spent in admiring study of this superb hall, whose details are
elaborate in every particular, varying constantly in small points of ornamentation, yet
ever consonant with the classic model, and keeping an artistic uniformity without
monotony. The ornamentation of the ceilings, composed of stucco in high relief set off
with gold on the eminences and bright color in the recesses, is also admirable, and
becomes very striking when applied to the vaulted canopies of the great side halls. The

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

61

fM-M''^^^<^i

THE FAMILY  By Charles Sprague Pearce.
decoration in relief here is all the work of Mr. Martiny, and consists mainly of little
figures (geniuses), exemplifying various conceptions and pursuits indicated by conven
tional symbols, such as the shepherd's crook and pipes for Pastoral Life or Arcady, a block
of paper and a compass for Architecture, and so on ; also many cartouches and tablets
bearing the names of illustrious authors.
Here the spaces surrounding the well of the staircases are spoken of as corridors, of
which there are four — North, South, East, and West — each decorated with brush or
chisel by some special artist under a harmonious plan. Certain features are continued
from one to the other, unifying them. The floors of all are mosaics, but the patterns
vary. The ceilings are alike, barrel vaults with pendentives, the ornamentation of
which is similar yet varied, while to each is assigned a special orna
mentation in paintings. The color scheme was suggested by that of the Corridors.
greatly admired library at Siena, Italy. The colors employed are alike
in similar parts throughout, and a uniform arrangement of the minor decorations,
trophies, »name- tablets, spaces for mottoes, etc., makes the whole design coherent, while
admitting of constant local diversity. The motive is renaissance.
Each corner of the rectangle of corridors is brilliant with two Pompeilan panels,
bearing the floating figures painted by George W. Maynard to express the
virtues. There are eight in all, and it will suffice to name and localize Pompeiian
them. Beginning at the left in each case they are: At the northwest Panels.
corner Industry and Concord; at the southwest corner Temperance and
Prudence; at the southeast corner Patriotism and Courage; at the northeast comer
Fortitude and Justice.
Another of the constant similarities is the series of Printers' Marks, which run
around the whole circle of the scheme, in the penetrations between the pendentives of
the ceiling. They are the "engraved devices which the old printers
used in the title-page or colophon of their books, partly as a kind of Printers'
informal trade-mark guarding against counterfeited editions, and partly l*larks.
as a personal emblem." Similar marks have been adopted by many
modern publishers, and these are represented as well as the old ones. It would require
a long time to describe each one of the fifty-six here shown, but they are worth careful
examination, and some are artistic and beautiful, while others are highly fanciful or
whimsical, containing a pun on the printer's name, or an indication of some legend.
These marks are drawn in black, and are enclosed in varying ornamental devices.
The North Corridor contains the brilliant paintings of Robert Reid on the north wall
and in the vault. For the former purpose he was given four circular panels, which he has

02

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

filled with compositions entitled Wisdom, Understanding, Knowledge, and Philosophy, are
also by Mr. Reid, and the subjects are typified by women of rather more
Reid serious mien, who are distinguished by easily understood symbols, the
Paintings, -Greek temple in the background of the last picture reminding the ob
server that philosophy began among the Greeks.
The same artist has taken the Five Senses as his theme for the ceiling pictures,
occupying octagonal spaces in the arabesque design of the vault. Taste, Sight, Smell,
Hearing, and Touch are represented in order from west to east, by delightfully composed
figures of young women that seem to be supported upon cloud banks in the sky. Taste
is surrounded by the foliage and fruit of the grape and is drinking from a shell. Sight
smiles at her image in a hand mirror (as well she may) and beside her is a gorgeous pea
cock. Smell is ensconced in flowers and inhales the perfume of a rose. Hearing prettily
listens to the roaring of a seashell held to her ear by graceful hands. T*uch, beside
whom sleeps a setter dog, is holding herself iquiet and feeling the titillation made by the
butterfly that walks along her bare arm.
But these are only the centerpieces of this highly embellished ceiling. Small rec
tangles are filled with sketchy drawings illustrating in a classic style the games and rec
reations of ancient times — Throwing the Discus, Wrestling, Running,
Ancient The Finish, The Wreath of Victory, and The Triumphal Return — in
Games. order. In addition to these are the Printers' Marks, here of American
and British publishers, and a long series of trophies of science and
industry contained in medallions. Geometry is marked by a scroll, compass, etc. ; Meteor
ology, by the barometer, thermometer, etc. ; Forestry, by axe and pruning knife ;
Navigation, by sailors' implements ; Transportation, by propeller, piston.
Trophies. headlight, etc. Above the west window are the two faces of the Great
Seal of the United States, and two of R. H. Perry's Sybils, sculptured m
low relief, these two being Greek and Oriental. The former (the Delphic Oracle) dic
tates her prophecies to an aged scribe ; the latter (a veiled or occult per-
Perry's son) utters them to prostrate adorers.
Sybils. Mr. Maynard's Pompeiian panels contain, at the east end. Fortitude and
Justice ; at the west end. Industry and Concord.

COURAGE.

FORTITUDE. JUSTICE.
Ponnpeiian Panels, by G. W. Maynard.

PATRIOTISM.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 63
Many inscriptions are written. Those in panels over doors and winr.jws are :
The chief glory of every people arises from its authors. — Dr. Joh-iison.
There is one only good, namely, knowledge, and one only evil, namely, ignorance.— ^'ocraies.
Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers.— Tennyson.
Wisdom ie the principal thing; therefore get wisdom; and with all thy getting get understanding. Proverbs iv: 7.
Ignorance is the curse of God,
Knowledge the wing wherewith we fly to Heaven. — STiafcspere — 3 Henry VI.
How charming is Divine Philosophy. — Milton.
Books must follow sciences and not sciences books.— 5acom.
In books lies the soul of the whole past time.— Carlyle.
Words are also actions and actions are a kind of words. — Emerson.
Reading maketh a full man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact man. — Bacon.
The ceiling inscriptions are from Adelaide Proctor's "Unexpressed" :
Dwells within the soul of every Artist No real Poet ever wove in numbers
More than all his effort can express. All his dreams.
No great thinker ever lived and taught you Love and Life united
All the wonder that his soul received. Are twin mysteries, different, yet the same.
No true painter ever set on canvas Love may strive, but vain is the endeavor
All the glorious vision he conceived. All its boundless riches to unfold.
No musician. Art and Love speak; but their words must be
But be sure he heard, and strove to render. Like sighings of illimitable forests.
Feeble echoes of celestial strains.
In the border of the arch over the west window :
Order is Heaven's first law.
Memory is the treasurer and guardian of all things.
Beauty is the creator of the universe.
Opening from this north corridor is the great exhibition hall, occupying the whole
breadth of this part of the building and looking out toward the Capitol on one side
and into one of the courts (with a good view of the north book-stack) on the other.
The ceiling is an elliptical barrel vault, twenty-nine feet above the fioor, divided by
double ribs springing from pilasters, and set, as elsewhere, with square coffers of
stucco colored red and gold. Red,- indeed, is the prevailing color here, emphasizing
the arabesques on the walls and adapting itself to the theme of decoration, as does the
blue of the corresponding exhibition hall on the south.
The special decorations consist of two great wall paintings filling the arched ends of
the hall above the doors, where spaces 34 feet long by 93^ feet high form the fields for
single compositions by Gari Melchers — War and Peace. War, at the
north end of the gallery, confronts the spectator as he enters. A triumph- Melchers'
ant, laurel-crowned chief of fighting men of some primitive time and "War and
place is leading home his victorious band, the " dogs of war" straining Peace."
at the leash in advance. A herald blows a psean of victory, but the
horsemen ride over bodies of the slain, weak men fall by the wayside, and in the very
foreground of the scene their own losses are suggested in the dead captain borne home-
'ward. Thus the dread as well as the glory of war is depicted.
Peace: is the subjec!, of the painting at the opposite (south) end, and it is equally bold in
conception, drawing, and color. The time and scene, as before, are carried back to that
prehistoric state of society which is regarded by the poets as Arcadian in its simplicity
and virtue. With no fear of hostile interruption or anxiety of mind, the inhabitants of
a village have come in religious procession to a grove wherein resides their tutelary deity,
whose Image they are reverently bearing; and while the priest chants a litany they bring
forward the supplicatory gifts or the thank-offerings each means to lay at the feet of the
goddess. The fattened ox may be meant for a sacrifice, but it is also a suggestion of
rural prosperity and feasting.

64

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The names inscribed here are those of the world's most famous soldiers :
Wellington, Washington, Charles Martel, Cyrus, Alexander, Hanni
bal, Caesar, Charlemagne, Napoleon, Jackson, Sheridan, Giant,
Sherman, William the Conqueror, Frederick the Great, Eugene,
Marlborough, Nelson, Scott, Farragut.
This hall is devoted to an exhibition, in glass table-cases,
of a great number of rare and curious books representing
the beginnings of printing and bookmaking, especially
as relates to North American discovery and history.
The display of early printed Bibles and missals, and
specimens of famous special editions of Bibles, is
also large. A great number of these
Early Books, prints go back to the fifteenth cen
tury, and some of them are of
great value on account of their extreme rarity.
All are laid open, usually at the title-page, and
can be examined as closely as is possible with
out taking them in one's hand. This collection
is added to and changed from time to time as
new books of curious interest are acquired.
The northern door of this hall
Northwest opens into the Northwest ;
Pavilion. Pavilion, occupying the '
northwestern corner of the
library. This room is among the most beau
tiful in the building. The ceiling is richly
coffered, colored, and gilded around a central
dome occupied by a painting. The walls
are broken by pillars, and are ornamented
with stucco work, including a series of four
carvings, one in each of the
Pratt's pendentives, which delicately
" Seasons." represent the Seasons, and are
from models by B. L. Pratt. \
These are repeated in the three other corner
pavilions, as are the general features of decora
tion, while the frescoes are individualized.
The special artist whose work is seen in this
pavilion is William de L. Dodge, who has made
Ambition the subject of his painting in the dome,
and has filled the four tympanums of the walls with
allegorical scenes, remarkable for the number of
figures they include. The dome picture represents
the summit of a mountain which may be called Success,
to which have climbed a series of persons along the
various paths, noble and ignoble, of human
W. de L. Dodge endeavor. The Unattainable Ideal
Paintings. away into the air beyond their reach, never
theless, though trumpeting Fame clutches at the
bridle. The struggling crowd displays types of many forms of Ambi
tion, and a Jester stands one side and laughs at the useless strife.

THK JjIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 65
Dodge's wall paintings depict Music (north). Science (east), Art (south), and Literature
(west). Each includes a group of figures about the presiding genius of their art, and
illustrating clearly by their attitudes, occupations, or implements its characteristics
and development. Thus in Music musicians, ancient and modern, are playing before
Apollo, the god of song and harmoijy. Science, an ideal winged figure before a
temple, has summoned the representatives of Invention, and the scene is filled with
suggestions of scientific discovery — Franklin's kite that began modern progress in
electricity, a teakettle as a reminder of the origin of the idea of the steam engine, etc.
Art displays the painter, the sculptor, and the architect at work. In Literature a
graceful group illustrates education, the book, the drama, poetry, the fame that crowns
the successful author, and so forth.
Several large table-cases are placed in this room, containing manuscripts, autographs,
and curious prints relating to the political history of the United States in great variety.
Many of these are proclamations, officers' commissions, and similar papers
signed by Colonial Governors and early Presidents and statesmen. There Historic
are also many letters, diaries, account books, etc., of statesmen and Autographs
leaders in the time of the Revolution, and of the more recent wars, and l*ISS.
including that with Spain, which resulted in the freeing of the West
Indies. Perhaps the most curious relic is a manuscript volume of the drawings of the
United States lottery of 1779.
The haU along the north side of the building, opening out of this pavilion, occupied
by special collections, must be passed through in order to see the Northeast Pavilion.
This pavilion, sometimes called the "Pavilion of the Seals," occupies the octagonal
northeast corner of the building. Gilding prevails upon its walls and ceiling, and sets
off the illustrative paintings of W. B. Van Ingen personifying the
Executive Departments. The Treasury and State departments are typi- Northeast
fied in the west tympanum ; the War and Navy in the south; Agriculture Pavilion.
and Interior in the east; and Justice and the Post Office in the north.
All of the details are symbolic and easily understood, except the cypress trees, which
are merely decorative, and stand in jars copied from those made by the Zufii Indians.
The seals of the departments are cleverly introduced, and in the dome
the great seal of the United States forms the center of an elaborate and Van Ingen's
beautiful circular painting by Garnsey, framed in an inscription from " Seals."
Lincoln's Gettysburg address: "That this nation, under God, shall
have a new birth of freedom ; and that government of the people, by the people, for
the people, shall not perish from the earth." Other sentiments inscribed here are :
'Tis our true policy to steer clear of permanent aUiance with any portion of the foreign world.
— Washington.
Let our object be our country, our whole country, and nothing but our country.— Webster.
Thank God, I also am an American.— TFc6s(er.
Equal and exact justice to all men, of whatever state or persuasion, reUgious or political — peace,
commerce, and honest friendship with all nations — entangling alliance with none.— Jefferson.
The agricultural interest of the country is connected with every other, and supe
rior in importance to them a.\\.— Jackson. lOSCriptionS.
Let us have peace.— Gramt.
The aggregate happiness of society is, or ought to be, the end of all government.— PTasMngfon..
To be prepared for war is one of the most effective means of preserving iiea,ce.—Washi7igton.
The visitor may now return to the Main Entrance Hall and devote attention next to
the West Corridor. This is immediately over the Entrance Vestibule, and has been dec
orated in a very interesting manner by Walter Shirlaw, who has found his motive in
The Sciences. Says Mr. SmaU :

66 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
" Each science is represented by a female figure about 7i feet in height. The figures
are especially interesting, aside from their artistic merit, for the variety of symbolism
by which every science is distinguished from the others, and for the
Shirlaw subtlety with which much of this symbolism is expressed. Not only is
Paintings. each accompanied by various appropriate objects, but the lines of the
drapery, the expression of the face and body, and the color itself, are,
wherever practicable, made to subserve the idea of the science represented. Thus the
predominant colors used in the figure of Chemistry — purple, blue, and red — are the
ones which occur most often in chemical experimenting. ... In the matter of
line, again, the visitor will notice a very marked difference between the abrupt, broken
line used in the drapery of Archeeology, and the moving, flowing line in that of
Physics." The list of these paintings, beginning on the west at the left, is as follows : Zoology,
clad in a pelt, and with the lion of the desert beside her ; Physics, typifying and
expressing in color and flowing form the reign of fire and electricity ; Mathematics is
almost nude — the exact truth; Geology has gathered specimens and fossils from the
rocks. On the east : Archaology, in Roman costume, consults history, and has beside
her a vase made by Zuni Indians; Botany seems analyzing a water lily; Astronomy
suggests her study by globe and planet and the lens of a telescope, and Chemistry is
accompanied by symbols of her investigations.
Agreeably to this motive, the names of distinguished men of science are emblazoned
upon the wall : Cuvier the zoologist, Rumford the physicist. La Grange the mathema
tician, Lyell the geologist, Schliemann the Greek archseologist, Linnseus the father of
botany, Copernicus the astronomer, and Lavoisier the chemist.
Three medallions in the ceiling are filled by W. B. Van Ingen with sketchy draw
ings idealizing the Arts : Sculpture chisels at a bust of Washington ; Painting Is
employed at her easel ; and Architecture is busied at the plans of a building.
The Printers' Marks here are German.
The inscriptions on the ceiling and over the windovfs are these :
The first creature of God was the light ot sense ; the last was the light of reason.
The light shineth in darkness, and the darkness comprehendeth it not.
All are but parts of one stupendous whole.
Whose body nature is and God the soul.
In nature all is useful, all is beautiful.
Art is long, and Time is fleeting.— iomg/eitott'.
The history of the world is the biography of great men.— Carlyle.
Books will speak plain when counsellors blanch. — Bacon.
Glory is acquired by virtue but preserved by letters.— Petrarch.
The foundation of every state is the education of its youth.— Dionysius.
The South Corridor, at the right of the staircase, is especially characterized by Ben
son's bright and dainty paintings. The Four Seasons occupy circular panels upon the
wall, and excite universal admiration. "Each is represented," says a
Benson critic, "by a beautiful half-length figure of a young woman, with no
Paintings. attempt, however, at any elaborate symbolism to distinguish the season
which she typifies. Such distinction as the painter has chosen to indi
cate is to be sought rather in the character of the faces, or in the warmer or colder col
oring of the whole panel — in a word, in the general artistic treatment."
Mr. Benson has also found space among the rich arabesques of the ceiling ornament

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

67

for three hexagonal paintings, given to the Graces, in which the use of white is most
skillfully and pleasingly made prominent. Aglaia is here regarded as
the goddess or patroness of husbandry and pastoral life, and characterized The
by the shepherd's crook ; Thalia stands, of course, for art, and by her Graces.
side is seen a lyre, suggesting music, and a Greek temple as a symbol of
architecture ; while Euphrosyne is the grace of graces — Beauty — and holds a mirror
up to her own features.

Near each end of the vault
panels representing a "scrim
ball, and a baseball game
games as compared with
depicted in the North
bas-reliefs are contin-
here, in two subjects
prophecy. One is the
sibyl — a fearsome old
a sibylline scroll an an-
of her applicants — a
general and a nude woman
in similar pose, represents a
or vala of the Norsemen.
peiian panels in this corridor
and Courage at the east end.

are rectangular Modefft
mage" at foot- Games.
modern the ancient recreations
Corridor. Mr. Perry's
ued at the west end
also expressing ancient
Cumsean or Roman
woman who reads from
swer to the questions
Ro man
The other. Perry's
wise woman" Sibyls.
.,^' Maynard's Pom-
¦¦¦¦'''^^ show the Virtues,

AGLAIA.
By F. W. Benson.

Patriotism
and at the west end Temperance

and Prudence.
The Printers' Marks are French ; and a series of trophy medallions corresponds to
that of the North Corridor, showing the crafts of the Potter, Glassmaker, Carpenter,
Blacksmith, and Mason. The inscriptions here read :
Beholding the bright countenance of Truth in the quiet and still air of delightful studies. — JI/iMon.
The true University of these days is a Collection oZ Books. — Carlyle.
Nature is the art of God. — Sir Thomas Browne.
There is no work of genius which has not been the delight of mankind. — Lowell.
It is the mind that makes the man, and our vigor is in our immortal soul. — Ovid.
They are never alone that are accompanied with noble thoughts. — Sir Philip Sidney.
Man is one world, and bath another to attend him. — Herbert.
Tongues in trees, books in the running brooks.
Sermons in stones, and good in everything. — Shakspere — As You Like It.
The true Shekinah is •man. — Chrysostom.
Only the actions of the just
Smell sweet and blossom in the dust. — James Shirley.
Man raises but time weighs.
Beneath the rule of men entirely great
The pen is mightier than the sword.
The noblest motive is the pubUc good.
A little learning is a dangeroas thing ;
Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring. — Pope.
Learning is but an adjunct to ouiseM.— Love'' s Labor Lost.
Studies perfect nature, and are perfected by experience. — Bacon.
Dreams, books, are each a world ; books, we know,
Are a substantial world, both pure and good. —Wordsworth.

68

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The fault is not in our stars,
Sut in ourselves, that we are underlings. — Shakspere
The universal cause
Acts to one end, but acts by various laws. -

-Julius Caesar.

Creation's heir, the world, the world is mine I

Pope.
Goldsmith.

Vain, very vain, the weary search to find
That bliss which only centers in the mind. ¦

¦ Goldsmith.

Wide doors admit from this South Corridor into
the exhibition hall corresponding to that on the
north in its shape and plan of decoration, ex( i jit
that the prevailing tone here is blue. The 1\mi
great mural paintings are the work of Kenyon
Cox, who has taken as his subject for the south
end the Sciences and for the north end the Arts
The composition and grouping of the two are
somewhat alike — the central figure in both
being seated upon a, kind of throne, supported
by a classic balustrade extending each way to
the limits of the canvas, along which the sub
ordinate figures are displayed.
Cox's In The Sciences, which faces
" Arts and the entrance, the central figure
Sciences." is Astronomy, with Physics
andMathematics, distinguished
by conventional symbols, at her right ; be
yond them geometrical figures seem merely
symbolic accessories until close attention
shows that they spell the artist's name —
Kenton Cox. At the right of the panel
Botany and Zoology approach, and behind
them are seen shells, minerals, etc. In The
Arts, at the north end of the room. Poetry sits
enthroned in the center, in an attitude of exalta
tion, which is communicated to two little gen
iuses at her feet. At her right are a musician
and an architect, while at her left sit Sculpture
and Painting — all typified by women, graceful
and dignified in mien, lovely in face. The colorins^
of these paintings is particularly rich and harmon
ious with the prevalent blue and gold of the room.
This room is devoted to an extensive seiicB of
prints illustrating the processes and developmeut of the
graphic arts — etching, photography, and printing of
photogravures and half-tones ; and the names written upon
the wall tablets are those of men distinguished in sciciK < mil
art — Leibnitz, Galileo, Aristotle, Ptolemy, Daltou, llipinK liu
Herschel, Kepler, Lamarck, and Helmholz for the foimci , and
Wagner, Mozart, Homer, Milton, Raphael, Rubens, Vitruvius, Man
sard, Phidias, and Michaelangelo for art.
South of this hall a great door opens into the Southwest Pavilion,

which

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 69
has been styled "Pavilion of the Discoverers, "from the theme of its decorations. Like
the other corner rooms it is octagonal and its ceiling has a dome, the disk
of which is decorated by George W. Maynard with an allegorical design SoUthYrest
embracing four stalwart female figures typifying National Virtues Pavilion.
— Courage, roughly mail-clad and armed with shield and war-club ;
Valor, a warrior of more refined type, with a sword ; Fortitude, an unarmed figure
bearing an architectural column as a symbol of stability ; and Achievement, wearing
the laurel crown.
Each of these figures is related In thought to one of the four great tympanum paint
ings, also by Maynard, in which are idealized the succession of Adventure, Discovery,
Conquest, and at last Civilization. The series begins at the east side with
Adveiiture. and each consists of three splendid female figures whose Maynard
action and accompaniments express the artist's conceptions. It will be Paintings.
noticed, too, that it is not adventure and conquest in general which is
portrayed, but that which led to the discovery and civilization of America, and conse
quently all the accessories are English and Spanish, and the many names recorded are
those of the adventurers, navigators, soldiers, priests, missionaries, and statesmen who
successively figured in the development of North America from Spanish and British
colonies to the independence and prosperity of the United States.
In addition to this very fine series of paintings, the pendentives here (as in the other
pavilions) bear a notable series of circular plaques in low relief, expressing by seated,
nearly nude, female figures, the Four Seasons, modeled by Bela L. Pratt.
Spring sows seed, her garment blown by the vernal winds ; Summer, PlaQUes.
older, sits quiet among the poppies ; Autumn, now mature, nurses a
child ; and Winter gathers fagots to warm her aged body. The garlands over each cor
respond to the season. The orderly manner in which the decorations of this and the
other pavilions, both painted and sculptured, have been made to correspond with one
another and with the architectural requirements of the room, and to carry out and
enforce by every detail the central idea belonging to each, makes them among the
most remarkable examples of decoration in the world, and merits care
ful study. This pavilion is devoted to exhibition cases for the display Book
of the growth and development of book illustration from the first rude Illustration.
efforts in illumination and in wood-cutting to the finest modern examples.
The eastern door of this pavilion opens into the Exhibition Hall along the south
side of the building, which is quietly decorated in plain tints, and devoted to an
extensive exhibit of the art of making pictures mechanically. It is known, therefore,
as the Print Room. Here one may see a great series of prints, illustrating the devel
opment of lithography and the processes a lithograph goes through, whether printed
in monotint or in varied colors. Also early and fine modern examples of every sort of
engraving upon wood, copper, and steel. In addition to this the library aims to show
an example of the work of every prominent American etcher and engraver. This hall
is illuminated by skylights.
The Southeast Pavilion, called "Pavilion of the Elements," is at the Southeast
eastern extremity of this room and is decorated by R. L. Dodge. In Pavilion.
each of the four tympanums he has painted a representation of one of
the four Elements — to the east. Earth; to the north. Air; to the west. Fire; to the
south, TFai6r.®Each consists of three figures, and the allegory and n i n j ,
symbolism in' each case are readily interpreted by the beholder. In the "J' • ^^ f^
dome Mr. Dodge, in conjunction with Mr. Garnsey, has expressed the tlements.
same idea in another way, figured by Apollo and the Sun for a centerpiece, surrounded
by medallions and cartouches for the elements.

70

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The series of handsome but not especially notable apartments along the eastern
front of the building are at present occupied on the south by Music and on the north
by the Smithsonian collections.
Main Returning to the Hall, the East Corridor and Entrance to the Rotunda
Entrance. Galleries remain to be considered.
The East Corridor, crossing the head of the staircases, has penden-
tive figures by Geo. R. Barse, Jr., illustrating the topic Literature, and com
prising Lyrlca (Lyric poetry). Tragedy, Comedy, and History, on
Barse the east wall ; and Love, Erotica (poetry), Tradition, Fancy, and
Paintings. Romance, on the west wall. They are simply expressed in the forms
of attractive women, each having the well-known conventional
The center of the vault exhibits three more striking medallion paintings
A. Mackay, giving _,_r5^^B=^S~~->.~_^ ^1"^ three stages of the Life
as re VjJ 4 ^K^^^^^feStea^- hj thi Fates — Clotho,
and J -- .^ 11 jf « JF >w ^ SHHH^ P^*" "^^^ allegory
plaint ^S" J*'*/ /'* ¦% iBP^^W^^t. when one reads
ymg inscrip-
beneath the

symbols.
by Wm.
of Man
Lachesls
becomes the accompan
tions. Thus

Clotho,

with her

COMUS. — By H. O. Walker.
distaff and the baby upon her knee, spinning the thread of life, are the words :
„ , , For a web begun God sends thread.
Mackay's "Fates." Lachesis, the weaver, is seen in the second picture, with shuttle and loom.
The child has become a man, the stream a river, the twig a tree of
which the man is gathering the fruit ; and we read
The web of life is a mingled yarn,
Good and ill together.
Then comes Atropos, severing with her fateful shears the old man's life thread as he
pauses beneath the withered tree to gaze at the setting sun ; and here are written the
words of Milton in "Lycidas" •
Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shearc.
And slits the thin-spun life.
The Printers' Marks are those of Italian and Spanish houses ; while the names of
American printers, type founders, and press builders are to be read upon the mural
tablets : Green, Day, FrankUn, Thomas, Bradford ; and Clymer, Adams, Gordon, Hoe,
and Bruce.
The Entrance to the Rotunda Galleries is from the middle of this East Corridor by a
branching stairway of marble. In the bays beside it are two charming paintings by
W. B. Van Ingen, illustrating Joy and Sadness as suggested by Milton's poems
"L'Allegro" and " II Penserose." The former is a light-haired, cheerful woman,
among flowers and happy in the sunshine, near which is quoted :

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

71

Come, thou goddess fair and free,
In Heaven ycleped Euphrosyne,
And by men, heart-easing Mirth.
Haste thee, nymph, and bring with thee
Jest and youthful jollity,
Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles,
Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles.
Such as hang on Hebe's cheek,
And love to live in dimple sleek.

Van Ingen
Paintings.

The other, a dark-visaged woman, expresses in her pensive face, mien, and surround
ings sadness and introspection :

Hail 1 thou Goddess, sage and holy I
Hail, divinest Melancholy 1
*****
Come ; but keep thy wonted state,
With even step and musing gait,
And looks commercing with the skies,
Thy rapt soul sitting in thine eyes :
There, held in holy passion still.
Forget thyself to marble. . . .

At the head of the stairs, on the wall landing, is Elihu Vedder's colossal mosaic (in
glass) of Minerva — Goddess of Wisdom — perhaps the grandest single object among the
library decorations. This mosaic forms an arched panel, 153^ feet high
and 9 feet wide, bordered by a design of laurel branches. The figure of The Vedder
Minerva is that of a magnificent — almost masculine — woman, a Mosaic.
chieftainess whose armor has been partly laid aside, and who now

addresses her mind to the arts
is bursting through the
Victory beside her
hand the olive
with the other
the rewards
q u e r o r s.
ing her
spear.

of peace. The sun of prosperity
war-clouds, and winged
Is forth with one
branch, while
she dispenses
to the con-
Still hold-
protecting she now

E,,DYMION.— By H.O.Walker.
contemplates with attention and benignant gaze an unfolded scroll upon which she
reads the names of branches of knowledge — Law, Statistics, Sociology, Philosophy,
and the Sciences. The whole is grand and stately in conception, bold in drawing, and
glowing in color, especially when seen by electric light.
Passing up this staircase, and turning either to the left or right (where there are
entrances to elevators), the visitor passes through doors admitting him to the public
gallery of the Rotunda.

72 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Tlie Kotuuda.
The Rotunda is a grand, octagonal hall, 100 feet in diameter, occupying the whole
center of the building, and rising unobstructed from the main floor to the canopy within
the dome — a height of 135 feet. The walls are outwardly of Maryland
The Rotunda, granite, immensely thickened by courses of brick, and lined with African
and Italian marbles.
The dome is carried upon eight massive piers, connected by noble arches, each arch
filled above the capitals of its supporting pillars with semicircular windows of clear
glass, thirty-two feet wide. The broad intrados of each arch is filled with sunken
panels of color and gilded rosettes, in conformity with the general design of ceiling
treatment. A heavy entablature of classic ornament (designed by Mr. Casey), in high
relief, with all the prominences gilded, runs all around the rotunda, into every alcove,
and out around all the eight piers. Each of the eight bays beneath this
Dome and entablature is filled with a two-storied loggia of yellow variegated Siena
Galleries. marble, the lower story consisting of three arches divided by square
engaged pillars with Corinthian capitals, the second story of seven lesser
arches supported by small pillars of Ionic style, extremely graceful ; and above all is
carried an open gallery protected by a balustrade. These loggias and the upper galler
ies, nearly forty feet from the fioor, run all around the rotunda ; and it is from these,
reached from the grand staircase, and overlooking the whole room, that the sight-seeing
public gaze upon the apartment and its busy workers, who are not permitted to be dis
turbed by the intrusion of casual visitors. These loggias form the eight sides of the
hall, the two entrances to which are further distinguished by facades of Siena marble,
which are perfect examples of the Corinthian style. Between each two adjacent loggias,
filling the corners of the octagon, and forming the inner face of the eight great pro
jecting piers, that support the arches and sustain the dome, are splendid columns and
faces of two shades of dark Numidian marble, crowned by golden Corinthian capitals,
and standing upon pedestals of the chocolate-tinted marble of East Tennessee.
On the summit of each of these columns stands a colossal emblematic statue, the
eight representing the principal departments of human thought and development ; they
are of plaster, toned an ivory-white, ten and one-half feet in height, and sixty feet from
the floor, and beginning at the right of the entrance, are as follows : Religion, by Th.
Bauer ; Commerce, by J. Flanagan ; History, by D. 0. French ; Art, by Dozzi, of
France, after sketches by Aug. St. Gaudens ; Philosophy, by B. L. Pratt ; Poetry, by
Ward ; Law, by P. W. Bartlett, and Science, by J. Donoghue. Each is distinguished
by some symbol, and above each, on a tablet supported by child-figures modeled by
Martiny, are inscriptions, chosen by President Eliot of Harvard University, each appro
priate to its theme, thus :
Above the figure of Beligion,
What doth the Lord require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly
^ with thy. God. — Micah vi: 8.
Above the figure of Commerce,
We taste the spices of Arabia, yet never feel the scorching sun which brings them
forth. — Anonymous.
Above the figure of History, One God, one law, one element,
And one far-off divine event,
To which the whole creation moves.— Tennyson.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

73

Above the figure of Art, As one lamp lights another, nor grows less.
So nobleness enkindleth nobleness.— ioweW.
Above the figure of Philosophy,
The enquiry, knowledge, and belief of truth is the sovereign good of human nature.— Bacon.
Above the figure of Poetry,

Hither, as to their fountain, other stars
Repairing, in their golden urns draw light.-

-Milton.

Above the figure of Law,

Rotunda Statues.

Of law there can be no less acknowledged than that her voice is the harmony of the world. —Hooker.
Above the figure of Science,
The heavens declare the glory of God ; and the firmament showeth His handiwork. —Psalms xix: 1.
Sixteen portrait statues, personally illustrating the great lines of creative thought
above enumerated, stand along the balustrade of the gallery ; they are of bronze, and in
pairs, one on each side of and overlooking that one of the eight colossal ideal statues
above described of which its original was a type. The list is as follows :
Typical of Religion: Moses, an ideal figure, by
Niehaus; and St. Paul, an ideal figure, by Donoghue.
Commei ee: Columbus, by Paul W. Bartlett ; and Robert
Fulton, by Ed C. Potter. History: Her
odotus, modeled after Greek sculptures,
by D. C. French ; and Gibbon, by Nie
haus. Art: Michaelangelo, by P. W.
Bartlett ; and Beethoven, by Baur. Philosophy: Plato,
from Greek busts, by J. J. Boyle ; and Bacon, also by
Boyle, Poetry : Homer, after an ideal bust of ancient
times, by Louis St. Gaudens ; and Shakspere, by Mac
monnies, modeled after the Stratford bust and the por
trait in the first edition of the Plays. Law : Solon,
from Greek data, by Ruckstuhl ; and Chancellor Kent,
by George Bissell. Science : Newton, by C. E. Dallin ;
and Joseph Henry, by H. Adams. Except the idealiza
tions mentioned above, all are from authentic portraits,
including details of costume, etc.
The great clock of the rotunda, over the door, was
modeled by J. Flanagan. "The clock itself is con
structed of various brilliantly colored precious marbles,
and is sst against a background of mosaic, on which
are displayed, encircling the clock, the signs of the
-By Bela . ratt. 2odiac In bronzc . . . The hands, which are also
gilded, are jeweled with semi-precious stones."
The spandrels or triangular wall spaces between the arches are adorned by emblem
atic figures in relief and brought out by color, and the whole is capped by an encircling
entablature of classic beauty, whence springs the superb canopy of the arch, filled with
rich ornamentation to its crown, beneath which, in the collar of the dome, is an exceed
ingly interesting and beautiful series of figures in fresco, by E. H. Blashfield, symbol
izing the relations of the nations to human, progress— i/ie Evolution of Civilimtion,

PHILOSOPHY.-

74 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
This glorious fresco consists of twelve seated figures, men and women, personifying
the great nations of history. All are winged, but this fact is hardly noticeable, yet of
much importance in uniting into a whole the detached figures. Four of
Blashfield's them are more conspicuous by their lighter colors than the rest, and they
Dome are not only those of most importance historically — Egypt, Rome, Italy,
Frescos. and England — but they mark the cardinal points of the compass.
Egypt, standing at the dawn of civilization, is appropriately placed at the
east, and is a male figure of an ancient Egyptian, holding a tablet. Judea is a woman in
an attitude of prayer, whose parted robe displays the vestment of a Jewish high priest;
a pillar beside her is inscribed, Leviticus, xix: 18, "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as
thyself." Greece is personified by a beautiful, diadem-crowned woman. Borne by a
warrior in the armor of a centurion, resting his hands upon the Roman fasces. For
Islam is chosen an Arab, representing the learned Moorish race and Moslem power. Next
to him is a female figure personifying the Middle Ages, typifying by her sword, casque,
and cuirass the great institution of chivalry, while the rule of the medieval Roman
Catholic Church is suggested by the papal tiara and keys. By her sits white-robed Italy
— the mother of the fine arts, whose symbols she has; and turned toward her is a printer
of the early days, standing for Germany, where this art originated. Spain is a cavalier
or navigator, eager for war, adventure, and discovery. Next him sits a gracious woman,
representative of England, recalling in her costume the literary glories of the Eliza
bethan age and displaying an open folio of Shakspere's plays. France is next — Repub
lican Prance — sitting upon a cannon but holding out the Declaration of the Rights of
Man. The twelfth figure completes the circle — America, typified in an Engineer, con
sulting a scientific book, while in front of him stands an electric dynamo.
This series thus has a double significance — each personage standing not only for a
nation geographically and historically considered, but for the genius or characteristic
idea of each, ' ¦ Thus, " remarks Mr. R. Cortissoz, ' ' Egypt is the representative of written
records, Judea typifies religion, Greece is the standard-bearer of philoso-
Significance. phy, Rome bears the same relation toward administration, Islam stands for
physics, the Middle Ages are figured as the fountain-head of modern
languages, Italy is represented as the source of the fine arts, Germany as sponsor for the
art of printing, Spain as the first great power in discovery, England as a mighty bulwark
of literature, the France of the eighteenth century as emblematic of emancipation, and
America as the nation of scientific genius. Each figure holds the insignia of its place."
In the canopy of the dome, above and within the collar, Mr. Blashfield has also
painted, as if floating in the sky, an exquisitely graceful female figure, called Human
Understanding, who lifts her veil and gazes up, as if seeking more and
" Human more guidance from on high. Two cherubs attend her, carrying the
Under- Book of Knowledge.
standing." The p'ractical work of the library concentrates in the rotunda, where (in
the center) stands the circular desk of the superintendent and his assist
ants, who can speedily communicate with all parts of the building by a system of tele
phones, and by pneumatic tubes, which carry messages and orders for books to any
required room or book-stack. The floor is filled with small desks,
Adminis- arranged in concentric circles and separated by light screens or curtains,
tration. and the intrusion of mere sight-seers is forbidden. Unlimited light and
air are assured, and quiet is enforced; while celerity in obtaining and
distributing books is secured by various devices that librarians elsewhere will admire
and copy. As there is a constant call for books of reference from the Capitol, where the
legislators often want a volume for instant use, an underground tunnel, four feet wide
and six feet high, has been made between the two buildings, containing an endless cable

. , THE LIBRARY OE CONGRESS.  _ 75
carrier, upon which books may be sent back and forth at great speed. An assistant,
cyclopedias, etc., are stationed at the Capitol terminus.
The stack-rooms, or apartments where the books themselves are kept, open out on
each side of the rotunda into the lofty wings that divide the interior courts, whose
enameled walls reflect a flood of light into their numerous windows.
These repositories contain the most improved arrangement. Cases of Care Of
iron, rising sixty-five feet to the roof, are filled with adjustable shelves Books.
of coated steel as smooth as glass. The floors of these rooms are mar
ble, and the decks, at intervals of every seven feet from top to bottom, by which the
attendants reach the shelves, are simply slabs of white marble on steel bars. Cleanliness
and ventilation are thus fully assured. Each of these stacks will hold 800,000 books ;
and the present capacity of all those erected is about 2,000,000 volumes, while addi
tional space can be made for 3,500,000 more, or nearly 4, .500, 000 volumes in all — more
than the probable accumulation of the next century and a half. The greatest existing
library in the world, that of France, now contains about 3,500,000 volumes. The
available space for all purposes here is largely in excess of that of the British Museum,
and amounts to more than two-thirds that of the Capitol itself. To Capt. Bernard
Green belongs the high credit for the invention and perfection of these mechanical
.arrangements for the cg,re of the books, and for many other improvements in library
administration. Theferack-rooms are not open to the public, but glimpses of them may
be caught through glass doors in the rotunda gallery.
Consultation of the books is open to anyone in the reading-room, though no books
can be taken out. The applicant writes the title of the book he wants and his own
address on a blank ticket, which he hands in at the central desk, where
he presently gets the book. Seats are arranged at circular desks which Reading-
will accommodate about 350 readers. No one may take books out of room.
the library except members of Congress, and about thirty other high
ofilcials. A restaurant is maintained in the attic (reached by elevator) which is open to the
public during the day and evening.
The basement is devoted to the offices of the library (including that of
the Superintendent of the Building and Grounds), and to the Copyright Restaurant.
Office. This is quartered in a large hall on the south side, but contains
nothing to interest the sight-seer.
This office grants copyrights upon all kinds of literary material, upon the payment
of certain small fees and compliance with regulations as to the deposit of two
copies of the publication in this library, and the proper publication of
notice of copyright. The law makes this right apply to author, inventor. Copyright
designer, or proprietor of any book, map, chart, dramatic or musical Office.
composition, engraving, cut, print, or photograph or negative thereof, or
of a painting, drawing, chromo, statue, statuary, and of models or designs intended to
be perfected as works of the fine arts, and the executors, administrators, or assigns of
any such person shall, upon complying with the provisions of this chapter, have the
sole liberty of printing, reprinting, pubhshing, completing, copying, executing, finish
ing, and vending the same ; and, in the case of a dramatic composition, of publicly per
forming or representing it, or causing it to be performed or represented by others. This
privilege remains protected for twenty-eight years, and may then be renewed for four
teen years.
The pictures of paintings in the Library, appearing in this chapter, are from copyrighted photo
graphs by Howard Gray Douglas, supplied by Houghton & Delano.

A VESTIBULE VISTA.

THE NORTH CORRIDOR — Second Story, Mam Entrance Hall.

IV.
ON CAPITOL HILL.
The plateau east of the Capitol was considered by the founders of the city the most
desirable region for residence, and truly it was in those days, as compared with the
hills and swamps of the northwestern quarter or the lowlands along the
river. The principal owner was Daniel Carroll, and when the alternate Early
city lots were sold for the benefit of the public funds, higher prices were Expectations.
paid for them here than elsewhere. Carroll considered himself sure to be
a millionaire, but died poor at last ; Robert Morris of Philadelphia, the financier of the
Revolution, invested heavily here and lost accordingly ; and the two lots which
"Washington himself bought cost him about $1,000.
Daniel Carroll built for himself what was then considered a very fine mansion,
styled Duddington Manor ; and that it really was a spacious, comfortable, and elegant

V/EST FROi'T CAP~l.L AT II

house can be seen by anyone who will walk down New Jersey Avenue, three blocks
southeast of the Capitol, and then a block east on E Street, which will bring him in
sight of the old house upon its tree-shaded knoll, surrounded by a high wall, and
desolate amid ' ' modern improvements. " Upon the personal history of the men who
have dined beneath its roof, and the stories its walls might repeat, Mrs. Lockwood has
79

80 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
expatiated pleasantly in her valuable book, " Historic Homes in "Washington," to which
everyone must be indebted who discourses upon the social chronicles of the capital.
A more famous building was the old Capitol Prison, as it came to be
Old Capitol called during the Civil "War, whose walls still stand upon the block
Prison. facing the Capitol grounds at the intersection of Maiyland Avenue with
First and A streets, N. E., enclosing the residences called Lanier Place.
This was a spacious brick building hastily erected by the citizens of "Washington
after the destruction of the Capitol by the British in 1814, to accommodate Congress and
hold the national capital here against the renewed assaults of those who wished to move
the seat of government elsewhere. "While it was building. Congress held one session in
Blodgett's " great hotel," which stood on the site of the former GeneralPost Office, and
then sat in this building until the restored Capitol was ready for them, in 1837. It was
a big, plain, warehouse-like structure, which was turned into a boarding-house after
Congress abandoned it, and there Senator John C. Calhoun died in 1850. "When the
Civil "War broke out this building became a military prison for persons suspected or
convicted of aiding and abetting the secession treason to which his influence had so pow
erfully contributed. "Washington was full of Southern sympathizers and spies, and
many are the traditions in the old families of days and weeks spent by overzealous
members in "durance vile " within its walls, guarded by the " law-and-order brigade"
of the Provost Marshal's office, which formed the police of the capital in those days.
Here Wirz, the brutal keeper of Andersonville prison, was executed, as well as several
other victims of the war. Several years ago it was remodeled into handsome residences,
one of which was the home of Mr. Justice Field until his death in 1899.
The tall brick Maltby Building, directly north of the Capitol, originally a hotel, is
now occupied by congressional committees, and is called the Senate Annex.
The Coast and Geodetic Survey, a scientific branch of the Treasury Department
to map the coast, chart the waters, and investigate and publish movements of tides,
currents, etc., for the benefit of navigation, is domiciled in a brick build-
Coast ing on New Jersey Avenue, south of the Capitol, immediately in the rear
Survey. of the great stone house built long ago by Benjamin F. Butler as a resi
dence, and which is now principally occupied by the Marine Hospital
Service. New Jersey Avenue leads in that direction to Garfield Park, which is too new
to be of interest, and beyond that to the shore of the Anacostia, near the Navy Yard.
Just west of it Delaware Avenue forms a perfectly straight street to AVashington
Barracks. Capitol Hill, as the plateau of the Capitol is popularly called, can yet show many
fine, old-fashioned homes, though some formerly notable have disappeared. It has its
own shady avenues, quiet cross streets, and pretty parks. In Stanton
Greene Square (three and one-half acres), half a mile northeast out Maryland
Statue. Avenue, is H. K. Brown's bronze statue of Major-General Nathanael
Greene, who distinguished himself at Eutaw Spring and elsewhere in the
South during the Revolution, and to whom a statue was voted by the Continental Con
gress. This statue, which was cast in Philadelphia, and cost, with its pedestal of New
England granite, $50,000, is one of the most life-like figures in "Washington, the model
ing of the horse being particularly admirable. The Peabody School confronts this neat
square. A farther walk of half a mile down Massachusetts Avenue takes one to Lincoln
Square— a beautifully shaded tract of six and one-quarter acres, just a mile east of the
Capitol. Here Tennessee and Kentucky avenues branch off northward and southward,
the former leading to Graceland and Mount Olivet cemeteries, and the latter to the Con
gressional Cemetery, and to the bridge (over the Anacostia to Twining) at the foot of
Pennsylvania Avenue.

ON OAPITOL HILL. 81
Christ Church (Protestant Episcopal) on G Street, S. E., between Sixth and Seventh,
is the oldest church in the city. It was erected in 1795, and was attended by
Presidents Jeffereon and Madison. Services are still held there. Christ
Church Cemetery, more popularly known as the Congressional Burial Christ
Ground, adjoins the grounds of the workhouse on the south, and ChUrch.
occupies a spacious tract on the bank of the Anacostia. It contains
the graves and cenotaphs, formerly erected by Congress, of many persons once promi
nent in official life.
This cemetery was the principal, if not the only place of interment at the beginning
of civilization here; and many officials who died at the capital were buried there,
and the practice continues, Congress contributing toward the support
of the cemetery in consideration of this fact. Among the notable men Congres-
buried here are : "Vice-President George Clinton of New York ; Signer sional
and Vice-President Elbridge Gerry of Massachusetts, whose name gave Cemetery.
us the verb "to gerrymander"; William West, born in Bladensburg
in 1773, a distinguished essayist and jurist, and finally Attorney-General under Monroe ;
Alexander Macomb, hero of Plattsburg and General of the army preceding Scott, who
has a fine mihtary monument ; his predecessor. Gen. Jacob Brown, resting under
a broken column ; Tobias Lear, Washington's private secretary ; A. D. Bache, the
organizer of the coast survey, and several distinguished officers of the old army and
navy. A public vault, erected by Congress, stands near the center of the grounds.
The nearest street cars are on F Street, S. B.
All this old-settled and no longer fashionable region, near the Anacostia, is spoken
of rather contemptuously as "the navy yard," and it supplies a fair share of work
for the police courts ; but it is greatly beloved of soldiers and sailors on leave.
In Lincoln Square, the most beautiful thing is the lofty, symmetrical sycamore tree
in the center ; but the most noted object is the Statue Monument to the Emancipation
of the Slaves. This is a bronze group, erected by contributions from the
colored freedmen of the United States, many of whom were set free by Emancipation
the proclamation which is represented in the hand of the great benefactor l^onument.
of American slaves, one of whom is kneeling, unshackeled, at his feet.
One of the inscribed tablets upon the pedestal informs us that the first contribution was
the first free earnings of Charlotte Scott, a freed woman of "Virginia, at whose suggestion,
on the day of Lincoln's death, this monument fund was begun. This statue, twelve
feet high, was cast in Munich at an expense of $17,000, and was unveiled on April 14,
1876, the eleventh anniversary of Lincoln's assassination, Frederick Douglass making
the oration.
East Capitol Street is a wide avenue running straight, one mile, from this park to the
Capitol, between rows of elms and poplars, and continuing onward to the Eastern Branch
through scanty and low-lying suburbs. On the same river bank, at the east
ern terminus of Massachusetts Avenue, occupying a reservation called District
Hospital Square, are the District Almshouse, Workhouse (or Asylum for Institutions.
the Indigent), and the stone jail, costing $40,000, in which several
murderers, including Garfield's assailant, Guiteau, have been confined and executed.
Some distance away, on the Bladensburg Road, can be seen the buildings of the Boys'
Reform School. All these institutions are well worth inspection by those especially
interested ; but the view of them obtained from passing trains of the Pennsylvania
Railroad will satisfy most persons.
The Navy Yard is one of the places which visitors to "Washington Navy Yard.
are usually most anxious to see, but it usually offers little to reward
their curiosity outside of the gunshop, museum, and trophies. It stands on the banks

82 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
of the broad tidal estuary of the Anacostia River, at the foot of Eighth Street, S. E.,
and is the terminus of the cars from Georgetown along Pennsylvania Avenue. The
Anacostia line of street cars along M Street, S. E. , also passes the gate.
This navy yard was established (1804) as soon as the Government came here, and was
an object of destruction by the British, who claim, however, that it was set on fire by
the Americans. It was restored, and "for more than half a century many of the largest
and finest ships of war possessed by the United States were constructed in this yard."
Two spacious ship houses remain, but the yard is now almost entirely given up to the
manufacture of naval guns and ammunition and the storage of equipments. It often
happens that not a ship of ^ny sort is at the wharves (though a receiving ship is usually
moored there), and the sentry at the gate is almost the only sign of military occupation
about the place.
The first great building on the right, the Gun Shop, at the foot of the stone stairs,
is the most interesting place in the yard. It is filled with the most powerful and ap
proved machinery for turning, boring, rifling, jacketing, and otherwise
Ordnance finishing ready for work the immense rifles required for modern battle-
Eactories. ships, as well as the smaller rapid-fire guns forming the supplementaiy
batteries of the cruisers and other vessels of war. The great guns are
mainly cast at Bethlehem, Pa., and brought here rough. Observing carefully the posted
regulations, the visitor may walk where he pleases through these magnificent factories
and watch the extremely interesting process, and should it happen that any vessels of
war are in the harbor, permission to go onboard of them may usually be obtained.
The office of the commandant of the yard is at the foot of the main walk near the
wharf, and there application should be made for permission to go anywhere not open
to the public. A large number of guns, showing types used in the past,
Trophies. are lying near the office, and a series of very interesting cannon captured
from the Tripolitan, British, Mexican, or Confederate enemies whom the
navy has had to fight, are mounted before the office. Among them is the famous 42-
pounder. Long Tom, cast in 1786 in France, captured from the frigate Noche by the
British in 1798, and then sold to us. Later it was struck by a shot, condemned, and
sold to Haiti, then at war with France. This over, the cannon had various owners until
1814, when it formed the main reliance in the battery of the privateer General Arm
strong, which, by pluckily fighting three British war-ships off Fayal, in the Azores, so
crippled them that the squadron was unable to reach New Orleans, whither it was
bound, in time to help the land forces there against the victorious Jackson. The brig
was afterward sunk to prevent her capture by the British, but the Portuguese authori
ties had so greatly admired the little ship's action that they saved this gun as a trophy,
and sent it as a present to the United States.
A museum near the gate is worth visiting, as it contains many pieces of old-fashioned
ordnance and ammunition, and many relics of historical or legendary interest, of which
the most popular, perhaps, is the stern-post of the original Kearsarge,
Navy still containing a shell received during her fight with the Alabama. The
Museum. door of the museum is shaded by a willow grown from a twig cut above
the grave of Napoleon at St. Helena. The residences of officers on duty
at the yard are near the gate, which was built from designs by Latrobe.
The marine barracks, three squares above the Navy Yard, on Eighth Street, S. B.,
occupy a square surrounded by brick buildings painted yellow, according to naval cus
tom, and are the home station and headquarters of the Marine Corps ;
Marine Corps, but, except that here is the residence of the famous Marine Band, they
contain nothing of interest to the visitor, unless he likes to watch guard-
mounting every morning at 9, or the formal inspection on Mondays at 10 a. m. The

ON CAPITOL HILL.

83

Marine Band is the only military band always stationed in Washington, and available
for all military ceremonials. These advantages have given it great excellence ; and its
music at parades. President's receptions, inaugural balls, etc., is highly appreciated.
This band gives outdoor concerts in summer.
The Naval Hospital, for sick and wounded officers and men of the Navy and Marine
Corps, is at Pennsylvania Avenue and Ninth Street, S. E. ; and at Second and D streets,
S. E., is Providence Hospital, founded in 1863.
Anacostia is a name applied in an indefinite way to the region opposite the Navy
Yard, and is reached by a bridge at the foot of Eleventh Street, crossed by the street
cars of the Anacostia & Potomac line. The village at the farther end of
the bridge, now called Anacostia, was formerly Uniontown, and from it Anacostia
branch roads lead up on the Maryland heights in various directions, where Suburbs.
electric railroads and park villages are rapidly extending. Twining, at
the eastern end of the Pennsylvania Ave one bridge ; Lincoln Heights, in the extreme
eastern corner of the district ; Garfield and Good Hope, on the fine Marlboro Turnpike,
which is a favorite run for cyclers ; and Congress Heights, farther south, are the prin
cipal of these suburban centers. All of these high ridges were crowned and connected
by fortifications, some of which remain in fairly good condition, especially Fort Stanton,
just south of Garfield. A wide and interesting view of the city and the Potomac Valley
is obtained from its ramparts, and also of the great Federal Insane Asylum.

MUSEUM, NAVY YARD.

V.
FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE.

A Walk Up Pennsylvania Avenue.
Pennsylvania Avenue is the backbone of Washington — the head of it resting upon
the storjed heights of Georgetown, and the tail lost in the wilderness of shanties east of
the Navy Yard. It is four miles and a half long, but is broken by the
Capitol grounds and by the Treasury and White House grounds. Pennsylvania
Betwpen these two breaks it extends as a straight boulevard, one and a Avenue.
half miles in length and 160 feet wide, paved with asphalt and expanding
at short intervals into spaces or parks caused by the angular intersection of other
streets. ' It will, by-and-by, be among the grandest streets in the United States.
, A walk up "The Avenue" begins at the western gates of the- Capitol, where First
Street, N. W., curves across its rounded front. Pennsylvania Avenue strikes north
west ; a few paces to the left, Maryland Avenue diverges southwest, straight down past
the National Museum to Long Bridge. ' The circles at the beginning of thfese streets are
filjed with two conspicuous monuments — the N^val or Peace Memorial at Pennsylvania
Avenuft nnd the Garfield at Maryland Avenue.

PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE

-Looking East from the Treasury Department.
85

86

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The Naval Monument was erected in 1878 from contributions by officers and men of
that service, "in memory of the officers, seamen, and marines of the United States Navy
who fell in defense of the Union and liberty of their country, 1861-1865."
Naval It was designed from a sketch by Admiral David D. Porter, elaborated
Monument. by Franklin Simmons, at Rome, and is of pure Carrara marble, resting
upon an elaborate granite foundation designed by Edward Clark, the
present architect of the Capitol. America is sorrowfully narrating the loss of her
defenders, while History records on her tablet : " They died that their country might
live." Below these figures on the western plinth of the monument is a figure of Victory,
with an infant Neptune and Mars, holding aloft a laurel wreath, and on the reverse is a
figure of Peace offering the olive branch. The cost was $41,000, half of which was
given by Congress for the pedestal and its two statues.

^4^^-

THE NAVAL MONUMENT. — Pennsylvania Avenue near Western Entrance to Capitol Grounds.
The Garfield Statue is a more recent acquisition, having been erected by his comrades
of the Army of the Cumberland, and unveiled in 1887, to commemorate the virtues and
popularity of President James A. Garfield, whose assassination, six
Garfield years before, had horrified the whole country. The statesman stands
Monument. upon a massive pedestal, in the attitude of an orator ; nearer the base of
the statue three figures represent three phases of his career — student,
soldier, and publicist. This statue was designed by J. Q. A. Ward, and erected at an
expense of $65,000, half of which was appropriated by Congress to pay for the pedestal
and its three bronze figures.
In the triangle between these two avenues lies the ten-acre tract of the
Botanical Botanical Garden, where Congressmen get their button-hole bouquets.
Garden. and their wives cuttings and seeds for pretty house-plants. It long ago
outlived its scientific usefulness, and has never attained excellence as a
public pleasure-garden or park, while its cost has been extravagant. In its central

FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE.

87

greenhouse may be seen certain tropical plants brought home by the Wilkes and Perry
exploring expeditions ; and the conspicuous illuminated fountain in the center of the
grounds is the one by Bartholdi, so greatly admired at the Centennial Exposition, 1876.
It cost $6,000.
The buildings improve as we proceed, and in the next block, on the right, is the
National Hotel, whose history goes back to the early decades of the century, for in the
time of Clay and Webster it was filled with the leading spirits in the
Government, who caused many memorable things to happen beneath its Early Hotels.
roof. At Sixth Street, just south of the avenue, is the handsome station
of the Pennsylvania Railroad, and opposite it is the Metropolitan Hotel, covering the
site of the first important hotel in Washington, the "Indian Queen," which was the
scene of the greatest festivities at the capital during the first third of the century.
This brings us to Seventh Street, the chief north-and-south aitery of traffic. Here
Louisiana Avenue extends northeastward to Judiciary Square ; and its diagonal crossing
of Pennsylvania Avenue leaves a triangle, upon which stands the equestrian statue of
Maj.-Gen. Winfield S. Hancock, by Henry J. EUicott, erected in 1896.
On the south side of the avenue here, stretching from Seventh to Ninth Street, is
Center Market, one of the most spacious, convenient, well-furnished, and withal pictur
esque establishments of its kind in the country. No one should consider
a tour of Washington made until they have spent an early morning hour Center
in this market, and in the open-air country market behind it, along the Market.
railings of the Smithsonian grounds, where the gaunt farmers of the Vir
ginia and Maryland hills stand beside their ramshackle wagons, or hover over little
fires to keep warm, and quaint old darkies offer for sale old-fashioned flowers and
"yarbs," live chickens, and fresh-laid
eggs, bunches of salad or fruit from
their tiny suburban fields, smoking cob
pipes and crooning wordless melodies
just as they used to do in " befo' de wa' "
days. There are four or five great mar
kets in Washington. Between the market
and Pennsylvania Avenue is a park space,
through which runs the depression mark
ing the old Tiber Canal, now a grassy
trench crossed by a picturesque bridge.
Here stands the Statue of Maj.-Gen. John
A. Rawlins, Grant's Chief
of Staff, and later his Sec- i^awlins
retary of War, who also Statue.
has a small park named
after him in the rear of the War Office,
where this monument was first erected.
This statue, which is of bronze, after de
signs by J. Bailey, cast in Philadelphia,
from rebel cannon captured by Grant's
armies, was erected in 1874, and paid for
($13,000) by friends of Rawhns, who died
here in 1869.
BRONZE STATUE OF JAMES A. GARFIELD. Good modern buildings and fine stores
Southwestern Entrance to Capitol Grounds. 11^ the avenue from here On tO Fifteenth
By J. Q. A. Ward. Street, especially On the northern side. At

88

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

Ninth Street another north-and-south artery of street-car traffic is crossed, and the
Academy of Music appears at the right.
Tenth Street, the next, is historic. At the left, past the market, is the principal en
trance to the Smithsonian grounds ; and on the corner is the office of a lively morning
newspaper. The Times. The open space here is decorated with Plassman's
Eranklin Statue of Benjamin Franklin, looking shrewdly down upon the trafficking
Statue. throng, as that eminent man of affairs was wont to do. It is marble, of
heroic size, represents Franklin in his court dress as Minister to the Court
of France, and was presented to the city in 1889, by Stilson Hutchins, an editor and
writer of wide reputation. The assassination of President Lincoln occurred in the old
Ford's Theater on this Tenth Street, in the second block north of Pennsylvania Avenue,
and the buildings made sacred by the event are still standing.
Ford's Theater, which during the Civil War was the leading theater in the city, has
long been occupied by the Government as offices. Here, on the night of April 14, 1865,
President Lincoln, with members of his family and staff, went, by special
Ford's invitation, to witness a play in which the actor J. Wilkes Booth had a
Theater. principal part. During an intermission, Booth entered the box in which
the President sat, shot him in the back of the head with a revolver, and
then leaped to the stage. At the same time, other assassins made attempts upon the
life of the cabinet officers — that upon Secretary Wm. H. Seward nearly proving suc
cessful. Booth leaped to the stage, and, with the other assassins, made his escape, but
all were soon recaptured, brought to Washington (except Booth, who was killed in
Maryland), and incarcerated in the military penitentiary at the Arsenal, where four
of the leaders of the conspiracy were tried and hung. Ford's Theater was at once
closed by order of the Government, which purchased the building in 1866. It was

•^'^^K^i;:

FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE.

OLDROYD LINCOLN MUSEUIVI.

remodeled and appropriated to the uses of the Record and Pension Division of the War
Department, and on June 9, 1893, suffered a collapse of the floors, which caused the
death and maiming of many clerks. During all this time the proscenium pillar, next
which Mr. Lincoln sat when he was killed, had been preserved in place, properly
marked ; it survived the disaster of 1893, and can still be seen.
The house in which Lincoln died (No. Oldroyd
516 10th Street, between E and F) contains Lincoln
the Oldroyd Lincoln memorial collection, Muscum.
begun by O. H. Oldroyd in 1860, and now
comprising three thousand objects connected with or relating
to the martyred President. Among them are the lollowing :
Family Bible in which Lincoln wrote his name in boyhood ;
log from the old Lincoln home ; stand made from logs of
house in which Lincoln lived, 1833-36 ; rail split by Lincoln
and John Hanks in 1830 (with affidavit by Hanks); discharge
given to one of his men by Captain A. Lincoln, Black Hawk
War, 1833 ; picture of Springfield House ; flag carried in
Lincoln and Hamlin campaign ; office chair in which Lincoln
sat when he drafted his first Cabinet ; farewell address to neighbors ; articles of furni
ture from the Springfield home ; autograph letters ; life-mask and cast of hands by
L. W. Volk ; bill of the play "Our American Cousin"; 350 funeral sermons ; 63 marches
and dirges; 263 portraits, including the earliest known; 309 medals; the spur and fiag
which played a prominent part in Booth's leap from the box in the theater.
At the corner of Eleventh Street is The Evening Star, opposite which, filling the
whole square from Eleventh to Twelfth Street, is the Post Office, elsewhere described.
On, the corner of Twelfth Street stands the lofty Raleigh Hotel. The two pretty
little parks at Thirteenth Street are confronted by hotels, restaurants, etc., and the
National Theater, which is among the foremost places of amusement in
the city. The handsome home of The Post, the leading morning news- Ttvelfth to
paper, is just beyond. On the south side of the avenue is seen the head- Fifteenth
quarters building of the Southern Railway system ; and at Thirteen- Streets.
and-one-half Street, just beyond the ruins of a railway power-house,
is the terminus of the Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon Electric Railway.
Fourteenth Street is the most important thoroughfare, north and south, in this part
of the city, extending from the Long Bridge, at the foot of Maryland Avenue, north
ward to Mount Pleasant. The Belt Line cars run southward upon it from Pennsylvania
Avenue to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, and so on around to the Capitol. At
the right (northward) the street slopes steeply up the hill to F Street, and this block, as
far as the Ebbitt House, is known as Newspaper Row, because filled with the offices of
correspondents of newspapers all over the country. Opposite them, occupying the
northwest corner, is Willard's Hotel
The block opposite Willard's is devoted to business houses, and has the Regent
Hotel. Around the corner to the left, on Fifteenth Street, are the Grand Opera House,
the armory of the Washington Light Infantry, the house of the Capital Bicycle Club, etc.
This brings us to the end of the avenue, against the southern portico of the Treas
ury, and in sight of the impressive Sherman memorial. Turning to the right, up the
slope of Fifteenth Street, we pass the busy terminus of F Street, and go on to G, where
the Riggs House forms a dignified corner-piece. A few steps farther, the broad avenue
in front of the Treasury opens the way northward, and brings us to that goal of patri
otic amhition — the White House.

^ ^ > '^ •* 'jnjw"

'SSS*''^

THE WHITE HOUSE— FROM LAFAYETTE SQUARE.

VI.
AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION.
The Executive Mansion, more commonly called the White House, has gained for
itself a world-wide 'reputation in a century's existence. George Washington was present
at the laying of the corner-stone in 1793, in what then was simply David
Burns' old fields stretching down to the Potomac (for this was the first History.
public building to be erected), but John Adams was the first President to
live in the building (1800), which was still so new and damp that his wife was obliged
to have a literal house-warming to dry the interior sufficiently for safety to health. Its
cost, up to that time, had been about $250,000.
The architect, James Hoban, who had won reputation by building some of the fine
houses on the Battery in Charleston, took his idea of the mansion from the house of the

THE EXECUTIVE OFFICES.
Irish Duke of Leinster, in Dublin, who had, in turn, copied the Italian style. The
material is Virginia sandstone, the length is 170 feet, and the width 86 feet. The house
stands squarely north and south, is of two stories and a basement, has a heavy balustrade
along the eaves, a semicircular colonnade on the south side (facing the river and flnest
grounds), and a grand portico and porte-cochfere on the northern front, added in Jack
son's time. Its cost, to the present, exceeds $1,500,000. In 1814 the British set fire to
the building, but heavy rains extinguished the confiagration before it had greatly injured
the walls. Three years later the house had been restored, and the whole was then painted
white, to cover the ravages of fire on its freestone walls, a color which has been kept
ever since, and is likely to remain as long as the old house does, not only because of the
tradition, but because it is really effective among the green foliage in which the mansion
is ensconced. It was reopened for the New Year's Day reception of President Monroe
in 1818. 91

AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION.

93

President's Grounds.
times fashion
assumes the

The President's Grounds consist of some eighty acres sloping down to the Potomac
Flats. The immediate gardens were early attended to, as is shown by the age and size
of the noble trees; but only lately has the mor^ distant part of the grounds
been set in order. This part, as also the park nearer the house (locally
known as the White Lot) is open freely to the public, under the eye of
policemen; and here, in warm weather, the Marine Band gives outdoor
CQhcerts in the afternoon, and the people come to enjoy them. At such
gathers in its carriages upon the winding roads south of the mansion, and
formal parade of Rotten Row or the Bois de Boulogne. It is here, too,
on the sloping terrace just behind the White House, that the children of Egg-tOlWng,
the city gather on Easter Monday to roll their colored eggs — a pretty
custom the origin of which has been quite forgotten. Lafayette Square ought also to
be included as practically a part of the President's Grounds.
Admission to certain parts of the White House is almost as free to everybody as it is
to any other of the people's buildings in their capital. Coming from Pennsylvania
Avenue by the principal approach, along the semicircular carriage drive that leads up
from the open gates, the visitor enters the stately vestibule through the front portico,
from whose middle upper window Lincoln made so many impromptu
but memorable addresses during the war. Here will be found door- Door
keepers, who direct callers upon the President up the staircase to the keepers.
offices, and form visitors, who wish to see the public rooms of the man- ,
sion, into little parties, who are conducted under their guidance. The first public
apartment visited is that on the left as you enter, occupying the eastern wing of the
building and called the East Room.
This, which was originally designed for a banquet hall, and so used until 1837, is now
the state recep
tion room. It is
80 feet in length,
40 feet wide, and
32 feet high, and
has eight beauti
ful marble man
tels, surmounted
by tall mjrrors.
Its embellish
ments are renewed
every eight or ten
years, reflecting
the changing
fashion in decora
tion; but the crys
tal chandeliers,
which depend
from each of the
three great panels
of the ceiling
(dating, with their
supporting pillars
from Grant's time)
are never chang ed ,
and whatever the ll^ li^E on a reception day.— Anne Wmte House.

94

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

PORTRAIT OF WASHINGTON. — In East Room.

Style, the profusion of gilding and mirrors
gives a brilliant back-
East Room, ground for the gorgeously
arrayed assemblages that
gather here on state occasions, when the
hall is a blaze of light, and a garden of foli
age and flowers from the great conserva
tories. Full-length portraits of George and
Martha Washington are conspicuous
among the pictures on the walls. The
former used to be thought one painted
by Gilbert Stuart, but it is now known
to be the work of an obscure English
artist who copied Stuart's style — a " very
feeble imitation " Healy pronounced it.
" Every visitor is told," remarks Mr.
E. V. Smalley, who explained these facts
in The Century Magazine, "that Mrs.
Madison cut this painting from out of
its frame with a pair of shears, to save it
from the enemy, when she fled from the
town [in 1814] ; but in her own letters
describing the hasty flight, she says that
Mr. Custis, the nephew of Washington, hastened over from Arlington to save the
precious portrait, and that a servant cut the outer frame with an ax, so that the canvas
could be removed, stretched on the inner frame."
The portrait of Mrs. Martha Washington is a modern composition by E. B. Andrews
of Washington. A full-length portrait of Thomas Jefferson, also by Mr. Andrews, and
,one of Lincoln, by Coggeshall, also occupy panels here.
The East Room is open to anyone daily from 10 to 3, but the other official apart
ments are only visible by special request, or when, at intervals, a custodian leads a
party through them.
Adjoining the East Room, at its southern end, is the Green Room, so named from
the general color of its decorations and furniture, which are traditional. The tone is
pale gray green. The ceiling is ornamented with an exquisite design of
Green Room, musical instruments entwined in a garland with cherubs and flowers, and
there is a grand piano. There are touches of gilt everywhere upon the
ivory-like woodwork, and the rococo open-work in the tops of the windows, from which
the curtains hang, is noticeable. Here hang several notable portraits. One of these is a
full-length, by Huntingt6n, President of the National Academy, of Mrs. Benjamin
Harrison, which was presented by the Daughters of the American Revolution, of whose
society she was president. Another notable portrait by the same artist is the full-length
of Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, presented by the Women's Christian Temperance Union,
commemorating Mrs. Hayes' courage in maintaining the cold-water regime at the
Executive Mansion. Three other portraits are hung here by friends. One is of Mrs.
James K. Polk; another, of the second wife of President Tyler, and the third, of the wife
of Major Van Buren, son of President Martin Van Buren, known in his time as
"Prince Harry."
Blue Room. Next to this is the' somewhat larger (40 by SO feet) and oval Blue Room,
which bows outward in the center of the colonnade of the south front
of the building, and whose decorations are in pale blue and gold. The ornaments

AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION.

95

THE EAST ROOM.

THE BLUE ROOM.

96

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

are presents from the French. The mantel clock was a present from Napoleon to
Lafayette, and was given by the latter to the United States; and the fine vases were
presented by the President of the French Republic on the occasion of the opening of
the Franco-American cable. It is here that the President stands when holding recep
tions, the ceremonial of which is described elsewhere, and here President and Mrs.
Cleveland were married in 1886.
The Red Room, west of the Blue Room, a square room of the same size as the
Green Parlor, has a more home-like look than the others, by reason of its piano,
mantel ornaments, abundant furniture, and pictures, and the fact that
Red Room. it is used ao a reception-room and private parlor by the ladies of the
mansion. The prevailing tone is Pompeiian red, and the walls are
covered with portraits, as follows .
A full-length of President Arthur, by Daniel Huntington, N. A.
A full-length of Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson.
A full-length of Benjamin Harrison, by Eastman Johnson, 1895.
A half -length of James A. Buchanan.
A half -length of Martin Van Buren, by Healy.
A half-length of Zachary Taylor, by Healy.
A half-length of John Adams, by Healy.
All these rooms open upon the corridor running lengthwise the building and sepa
rated from the vestibule by a partition of glass, which President Arthur prevailed
upon Congress to order, to replace an old wooden one. "The light coming through
the partition of wrinkled stained-glass mosaic makes a marvelously rich and gorgeous
effect, falling upon the gilded niches where stand dwarf palmetto trees, the silvery
network of the ceiling, and the sumptuous furniture.'' In this corridor hang several
portraits of Presidents, including a full-length of Washington, by an Ecuadorian artist.

THE RED ROOM.

AT i'llJ!; EXECUTIVE MANSION. 97
Cadena of Quito, and presented by him ; and of Polk, Garfield (by Andrews), Hayes,
Fillmore, Tyler, Grant (by Le Clair), and Jackson — one of Andrews' early efl'orts.
Many of the older ones are by Healy, who painted portraits of Presidents J. Q. Adams,
Tyler, Jackson, Van Buren, Taylor, Fillmore, Polk, Pierce, Buchanan, Lincoln, and
Grant. Each President is supposed to leave his portrait here.
The State Dining-room is at the south end of this corridor, on the
left, in the corner of the house. It measures 40 by 30 feet, and is in -'^^^^ Dining-
tho Colonial style, the prevailing colors being a dull yellow, meant room.
to light up warmly under gaslight.
"The ceiling is surrounded with a frieze of garlands, about SJ^ feet wide, with
medallions at intervals. From these wreaths and vines run to the chandeliers. Beneath
the cornice is a heavy frieze about four feet in width, which blends into the wall,
with garlands of native vines, leaves, and fruits. . . . The general character
of the work is known as 'applique relief,' which is produced by blending transparent
colors on a light ground, . . . the effect being greatly increased by the fact
that the various colors and figures are 'edged up' in relief to imitate the corded
or raised work in applique. . . . State dinners are usually given once or twice
a week during the winter, and are brilliant affairs. Lavish use is made of plants and
flowers from the conservatories, and the table, laden with a rare display of plate,
porcelain, and cut-glass, presents a beautiful appearance, forming an effective setting
for the gay toilets of the ladies and their glittering jewels. The table service is exceed
ingly beautiful, and is adorned with various representations of the flora and fauna
of America. The new set of cut-glass was made at White Mills, Pa. , and is regarded
as the flnest ever produced in this country. It consists of 530 separate pieces, and
was especially ordered by the Government for the White House. On each piece
of the set, from the mammoth centerpiece and punch bowl to the tiny saltcellars,
is engraved the coat of arms of the United States. The execution of the order occu
pied several months, and cost $6,000. The table can be made to accommodate as many
as fifty -four persons, but the usual number of guests is from thirty to forty."
The western door of the corridor leads into the conservatory, which is always in
flourishing beauty ; and opposite the state dining-room is the private or family dining-
room, a cozy apartment looking out upon the avenue. The private stairway is near its
door. A butler's pantry, a small waiting-room at the right of the vestibule, and an
elevator complete the list of rooms on this main floor
The basement is given up entirely to the kitchen, storerooms, and servants'
quarters. The business offices of the President and his secretaries are on the second floor, at
the eastern end, and are reached by a stairway at the left of the vestibule. At the head
of the stairway sits a messenger who directs persons into the large ante
room, which is in reality a hallway of the house, and to the door of the President's
office of the Secretary to the President, who occupies the corner room Office.
southeast. The President's office is next to that of his private secretary — a large, plain, com
fortably furnished room, lined with cases of books of law and reference. His great desk
is at the southern end of the room, and the President sits with his back to the window,
which commands a wide view down the Potomac. The massive oak table here is made
from timbers of the Resolute, a British ship abandoned in the Arctic ice while searching
for Sir John Franklin, in 1854, but recovered by American whalers ; it is a gift from
Queen Victoria.
The Cabinet Room is next beyond, immediately over the Green Room — another
plain, handsome, rather dark apartment, with a long table down the center surrounded
7

98

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

by armchairs. The President sits at the southern end of the table, with the Secretary
of State on his right, the Secretary of the Treasury on his left, and the
Cabinet others farther down the table. The more or less valuable portraits of
Room. several past Presidents look down upon them from the walls.
The Executive Mansion is well guarded. A large force of watchmen,
including police officers, is on duty inside the mansion at all hours, and- a continuous
patrol is maintained by the local police of the grounds immediately surrounding the
mansion. As an additional safeguard, automatic alarm signals are flxed in different
parts of the house, and there are telephones and telegraphs to the military posts, so
that a strong force of police and soldiers could be obtained almost at a moment's notice.
The inadequacy of the White House as a residence for the President of the United
States has long been recognized. It is crowded, inconvenient, and wholly unadapted
to such dignity and occasions of public ceremony as the nation demands
A New of its chief. There is not even accommodation for visitors, so that guests
White House, of the nation must be sent to a hotel. Many suggestions and more or
less elaborate plans have been made for a new and proper President's
residence, which should be entirely separate from the Executive offices, for which the
present White House might properly be reserved. Most of these proposals contemplate
a magniflcent edifice on Meridian Hill, 300 feet in elevation, at the head of Sixteenth
Street. One such proposition, designed by Mary Henderson Foote and Paul J. Pelz, is
illustrated herewith. It proposes a building in an ornate American adaptation of the
Roman classic style of architecture, and constructed of white marble, with grand
approaches. The west wing would be devoted to the home of the President's family,
and- the east wing to suitable accommodation for the nation's guests; while the central
part, and the ground floor of the east wing, extended by elaborate conservatories, would
be devoted to a series of state apartments, in which grand ceremonies and entertainments
might be adequately arranged and carried out.

**[^Wi^^ ^i!^'^^.

wsm *>™^ *" ui III'" "2j''"'"

PROPOSED EXECUTIVE MANSION. — Paul J. Pelz, Arciiiteot.

VII.
THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS.
The Executive Departments are those over which the Cabinet officers preside, and in
which the daily administration of the Government is carried on. There have not
always been so many, nor have they always been known by their present names ; and it
is only recently, under the law of 1886, prescribing the order of succession to the
Presidency, that any authoritative sequence could be observed in the list, which is now
as follows: The Department of State, presided over by the Honorable the Secretary of State.
The Treasury Department, the Secretary of the Treasury.
The War Department, the Secretary of War. List of
The Department of Justice, the Attorney-General. Departments.
The Post Office Department, the Postmaster-General.
The Navy Department, the Secretary of the Navy.
The Department of the Interior, the Secretary of the Interior.
The Department of Agriculture, the Secretary of Agriculture.
All these are situated in the immediate neighborhood of the Executive Mansion,
except those of the Post Office, Interior, and Agriculture.
The Departments are the business offices of the Government, and "politics" has much
less to do with their practical conduct than the popular clamor would lead one to sup
pose. The occasional shirk or blatherskite makes himself noticed, but the average
employe, from head to foot of the list, faithfully attends to his business and does
his work. This must be so, or the business of the nation could not be carried on ; and
otherwise, men and women would not grow gray in its service, as they are doing,
because their fidelity and skill can not be spared so long as their strength holds out.
Year by year, with the growth of intelligence and the extension of the civil service idea
and practice, "politics" has less and less to do with the practical administration of the
business of the nation at its capital ; and year by year, better and more economical
methods and results are achieved. No civil pensions have yet been established as the
further reward of long and faithful service.
The Department of State stands first on the list, and occupies the south and noblest
front of the State, War, and Navy Building — that towering pile of granite west of the
White House, which has been so honestly admired by the populace and
so often condemned by critics. The architect was A. B. Mullet, who had Department
a great fondness for the "Italian renaissance," as is shown by the post of State.
offices of New York and Boston, and by other public edifices executed
while he was supervising architect of the Treasury. This building is 471 feet long by
253 feet wide, and surrounds a paved courtyard containing engine-houses, etc. It is
built, outwardly, of granite from Virginia and Maine, and the four fagades are substan
tially alike, though the south front, where space and slope of the ground favors, has a
grander entrance than the other sides. The building was begun in 1871 and not wholly
finished until 1893, covers four and a half acres, contains two miles of corridors, and
cost $10,700,000. It is in charge of a superintendent, responsible to a commission com
posed of the three Secretaries occupying it. 99

100 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
All of the apartments of the "foreign office" are elegant, and one fancies he sees a
greater formality and dignity, as certainly there is more of studious quiet, here than in
any other department. The Secretary and assistant secretaries occupy a
Foreig'n line of handsome offices in the second story, looking southward across
Office. the park, among which is the long and stately room assigned to confer
ences with representatives of foreign governments, or similar meetings,
and hence called the Diplomatic Boom. An opportunity to inspect this should be
accepted, if only to obtain a sight of the likenesses of the past Secretaries of State, with
which its walls are almost covered. All of these portraits are by men of talent, and
some are of superior merit : That of Clay, by E. D. Marchant, and those of Fish and
Frelinghuysen, by Huntington, are especially praised. Lord Ashburton is here also,
beside Webster — his great coadjutor in the adjudication of the boundary between the
United States and Canada. This room, the furniture, rugs, and hangings of which are
dark and elegant, is said to have been arranged by Secretary Hamilton Fish. Near by
is another elegant apartment — the Diplomatic Ante-room, where foreign dignitaries
await audience with the premier.
The show room of the department, however, is the library, in spite of the fact that
several curious objects formerly exhibited there are no longer on view.
The precious original drafts of the Declaration of Independence and of the Constitu
tion were disintegrating and fading under exposure to the light, and have been shut up
in a steel safe, after having been hermetically sealed between plates of
"State" glass, which arrangement, it is hoped, will stop their decay. A precise
Library facsimile of the Declaration, made about 1820, hangs upon the library
and Relics. wall. The Great Seal and certain curious early treaties of oriental and
barbarous states are no longer exhibited. Here may be seen, however,
the war sword of Washington — the identical weapon he was accustomed to wear in
camp and campaign ; and the sword of Jackson, at New Orleans — broken, to be sure,
but mended by a skillful armorer, and not by himself at a blacksmith's forge, as the old
story relates. Jefferson's writing-desk (at which, tradition says, the Declaration of
Independence was drafted), Franklin's staff and buttons from his court dress, a lor
gnette given by Washington to Lafayette, a copy of the Pekin Gazette, which has been
printed continuously, as a daily newspaper, since the eighth century, and several other
personal relics and historical curiosities will reward the visitor.
The library itself is a very notable one, equal to those of the governments of Great
Britain and France in importance as a collection of books of international law and
diplomacy. Cognate works, such as biographies, histories, and travels of a certain sort,
supplernent this central collection, and the whole now includes some 60,000 volumes.
Its purpose is to serve as a reference library for the department. It also includes a
great quantity of the papers of public men of tbe past, which have been acquired by
purchase or otherwise, and are distinct from the correspondence archives of the depart
ment. For the papers of Washington (bound into 336 volumes) $45,000 was paid in
1834 and 1849 ; for the Madison papers (75 vols., 1848) $35,000 ; for the Jefferson MSS.
(137 vols., 1848) $20,000; and for the Monroe papers (33 vols., 1849) $20,000. More
recently have been acquired the papers of Hamilton (65 vols.), of Benjamin Franklin
(33 vols., $35,000), and extensive records of the Revolutionary army.
The War Department has quarters in the same great building, occupying the west
ern and part of the northern front, as is indicated by the cannons lying upon the but
tresses of the porches. The Secretary and Assistant Secretary of War,
War Office, the General of the army, and several military bureaus have their offices
there, but none of them are open, of course, to the casual visitor. At
the head of the staircase, near the northwestern corner, are models of certain arms and

102 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
ordnance, and of wagons, ambulances, etc., and also two showcases of life-size lay fig
ures exhibiting the uniforms of various ranks in the Revolutionary army. The wall of
the staircase is embellished with portraits of past. Secretaries, and in the corridor and
ante-rooms of the Secretary's office are other paintings, including grand portraits of
Grant, Sherman, and Sheridan, by Daniel C. Huntington. The Washington portrait
here is one of Stuart's copies from his original study.
The old Winder building, on the opposite side of Seventeenth Street, erected many
years ago by Gen. Wm. H. Winder, an army officer who distinguished himself in the
early part of the War of 1813, and commanded the troops here In 1814, was intended
for a hotel. It was taken for offices of the War Department, however, and has been so
occupied ever since. In it General Halleck had his office and the staff headquarters of
the army during the Civil War, Secretary Stanton's office being in the building demol
ished to make room for the present structure.
General Grant's Headquarters, when, after the war, he lived in
Grant's Washington in command of the army, were in the large house with the
Head- high stoop on the opposite or southeast corner of Seventeenth and F
quarters. streets, it is now a private residence. McClellan's headquarters during
the early half of the war were at the northeast corner of Lafayette
Square, now the Cosmos clubhouse.
The Navy Department has possession of the remaining third of the building, with an
entrance facing the White House, signified by anchors upon the portico. The Secretary
and Assistant Secretary preside over ten bureaus, whose chiefs are detailed officers of
the navy. These are :
1. Bureau of Navigation, having the practical control of the ships and men in actual
service, and including the Hydrographic Office and Naval Academy at Annapolis, but
not the War College at Newport. 2. Bureau of Yards and Docks. 3.
Bureaus of Bureau of Equipment, which has charge, among other things, of the
the Navy. Naval Observatory, the Nautical Almanac, and the Compass Office.
4. Bureau of Ordnance. 5. Bureau of Construction and Repair. 6.
Bureau of Steam Engineering. 7. Bureau of Medicine and Surgery, under whose
supervision is maintained a Museum of Hygiene, in the Old Naval Observatory, which
is interesting to specialists. 8. Bureau of Supplies and Accounts (but the Navy Pay
Office is 'at No. 1739 New York Avenue). 9. Office of the Judge Advocate General —
the department's law officer. 10. Office of the Commandant of the Marine Corps, who
is responsible directly to the Secretary of the Navy. By the time a ship is built,
equipped, armed, and manned, she has gone through every one of these bureaus, and
must have had a good pilot if she escaped being dashed to pieces against some of their
regulations, or crushed by collision of authority between their chiefs.
The models of ships, on view in the corridor near the entrance and on the next floor
above, form an exhibit of great interest, graphically displaying the difference between
the early wooden frigates and line-of -battle ships and the modern steel
l^odels. cruisers and turreted men-of-war. These models ought not to be over
looked ; the library, also, is well worth attention, on account of the por
traits of departed Secretaries, as well as for the sake of its professional books.
The flnancial department and the actual treasuiy of the Government are housed in the
imposing but somewhat gloomy building which closes the vista up Pennsylvania Avenue
from the Capitol, and which nearly adjoins the White House park on the
Treasury east. This structure, which, suitably to the alleged American worship
Building:. of money, has been given the form of a pagan temple, is of the Ionic-
Greek order of architecture modified to suit local requirements. The
main building, with its long pillared front on Fifteenth Street, was erected of Virginia

104 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
sandstone, after plans by Robert Mills, and completed in 1841. Some years later exten
sions were undertaken under the architectural direction of Thomas U. Walter, which
enlarged the building greatly, produced the magnificent granite porticos at each end,
and resulted in the beautifully designed western f afade. The whole building, completed
in 1869, is 466 feet long and 264 wide exclusive of the porticos, incloses two courts, and
has cost about $10,000,000.
The Treasury is a place every stranger visits. The building is open from 9 till
3 ; and between 11 and 13 and 1 and 2 o'clock, persons who assemble at the office of
the Treasurer are formed into parties, and conducted to the doors of certain rooms, where
the guides volubly explain the work in progress there.
Thus you may see the girls counting and recounting the sheets of specially made paper
upon which all the United States bonds, notes, and revenue stamps are printed ; this is
the beginning of the long routine of " money making," and not one must
Paper for go unaccounted for. This paper is made of components and by a com-
SecUrities. position which is a secret between the Government and the manufac
turers at Dalton, near Pittsfield, JIass. It is especially distinguished by
the silk fibers interwoven with its texture, and, as a part of the monopoly of the manu
facture of United States money retained by the Federal Government, the possession
of any such paper by private persons is prohibited under severe penalties, as prima facie
evidence of intent to defraud. The packages of 1,000 sheets, each of the proper size for
printing four notes, are deftly counted and carefully examined by young women, whom
long practice has made wonderfully expert. When every imperfect sheet has been picked
out and replaced by a good one, the packages are sent to the printer (see Bureau of
Engraving and Printing).
Next you may be shown the large room to which piles of similar sheets, printed with
the faces and backs of notes of various denominations from $1 to $1,000, have been
returned, to receive here, upon small steam presses, the red seal, which
Treasury completes the value of the paper as a promise to pay.
Notes. These notes, to the amount of about $1,000,000 in value, on the average,
are brought over from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing each morn
ing, being conveyed in a steel-encased wagon, guarded by armed messengers. They are
first counted by three persons in succession, to reduce to the vanishing point the proba
bility of error, and then are sent to the sealing-room mentioned above, where the sheets
of four unseparated notes are passed through the small steam presses that place upon
them the red seal of the Treasury of North America, or, as it is written in abbreviated
Latin upon the seal itself : J'hesaur. Amer. Septent. Sigil.
United States Treasury notes bear the engraved facsimiles of the signatures of the
United States Treasurer and the Register of the Treasury; but national bank notes are
actually signed in ink by the president and cashier of the bank issuing them. The latter
are sent to the banks and receive these signatures before receiving the red seal, for
which purpose they must be returned here, the banks defraying the express charges.
It is in the room adjoining this that the visitor sees that marvelous development of
the human hand and eye which enables the ladies intrusted with the final counting of
Uncle Sam's paper money to do so with a rapidity that is absolutely
Cutting the bewildering to the beholder. As soon as the seals have been printed upon
Sheets. a package of 1,000 sheets of notes, these are taken to another little
maclune, which slices them apart, replacing the hand shears, to whose
use, in General Spinner's day, according to tradition, is due the introduction of female
assistance in the departmental service. This produces 4,000 notes which are tied up
into a standard " package," and laid upon the table of the first clerk to whom they go
for final inspection and counting. Untying a package and holding it by her left hand,

THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 105
with the face of the notes upward, she lifts the right-hand end of every one of the 4,000
notes, scans it for imperfections in texture, printing, sealing, or cutting, sees that it is
numbered in due order, and that none is missing.
That all this can be done, and done day after day and month after month, with
unwearied vigilance, discernment, and accuracy, is sufficiently extraordinary —since
habitual application to routine work is likely to breed not only careless
ness, but a sort of mental blindness ; but when to this is added a speed so Expert
extraordinary that a counter passes on the average 32, 000 notes each work- Counting.
ing-day, the performance becomes one of the most wonderful in the range
of human industry. It would seem that the eye could scarcely form an image in the
brain of any single note as it flies through the fingers, yet so trained and sensitive have
these women become, that the slightest irregularity of form or color is noted, and each
imperfect note is rejected, destroyed, and replaced by a perfect one from a reserve
supply. The rapid counting is facilitated — only made possible, in truth — by the fact that
the notes, as they fall from the cutting machine, lie in exact rotation of numbers (in the
upper right-hand corner), so that the counter need only take cognizance of the final unit,
sure that as long as these run continuously there is no mistake. Having observed, for
example, that her package began 87,654,320, that the units were repeated continuously
in order, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1, 3, 3, 4, etc., and the package ended 87,658,330, the
counter could be sure it was full and regular. To guard against any possible mistake,
however, these packages go through the hands of five successive counters before the
last of the fifty-two countings to which the sheets and notes are subjected is concluded,
and the notes are ready for issue. Each person to whom the packages are temporarily
intrusted is obliged to receipt for them, so that their history may be traced from the
paper mills to the cashier's desk.
Each package, as it comes from the last counter, contains 4, 000 notes ; but as these may
vary from $1 to $1,000 in denomination, the value of the package may be $4,000, $8,000,
$30,000, $40,000, $80,000, $400,000, or $4,000,000. Each package is now wrapped in
brown paper, sealed with wax impressed with the Treasury seal, and placed in the
currency reserve vault of the cashier of the department of issue ; and the amount
receipted for by the keeper of the vault (averaging $1,000,000 a day) must correspond
each evening exactly with the amount received the same morning from the Bureau of
Engraving and Printing.
These pretty notes, the representatives of the hard cash stored in the vaults, reach the
public only through the Cash Room, a large apartment on the main floor, walled with a
great variety of exquisite native and foreign marbles, and provided with
a public gallery, whence all its operations may be overlooked ; but vis- Cash Room.
itors ought to keep very quiet. Here tightly bound packages of notes of
a single denomination, each containing 4,000 bills, are prepared for shipment to the sub-
treasuries and other flnancial agents of the Government, or, with the loose cash needed,
are paid out over the counter. The business is that of an ordinary bank, or, rather, of
an extraordinary one, for checks of enormous value are frequently cashed here — one
reaching as high as $10,000,000.
When the various legal-tender notes (greenbacks, silver certificates, treasury notes, or
gold certificates) are sent in for redemption, they go into the redemption division, where
they are counted and sorted into packages — again by the quick fingers
of women. These packages are then irretrievably mutilated by punches. Redemption
sliced lengthwise, and each half is counted separately by other clerks. Office.
If all proves to be right (an error is quickly traceable), a receipt is given,
enabling the cashier to give back new notes in exchange for the old ones, or reissue to

106

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

the public in coin, an amount equal to what has been presented that day for redemption.
Sometimes the mere fragments, or soaked or charred remains, of bank notes are sent in,
but if the evidence of good faith satisfies the chief, and the amount can be verified,
crisp, new notes are sent to the owner in return.
This opens a door for fraud, which rascals have tried to enter, but they have rarely
succeeded. In the office of the present United States Treasurer, alongside his little
receipt to his predecessor for $750,000,000, or thereabouts, the amount taken into custody
by him, may be seen, framed, what purports to be a $500 bill, made up of sixteen pieces
cut from various parts of sixteen other genuine $500 bills which had been sent in and
redeemed as "mutilated." These reserved fragments, combined, made a seventeenth
bill, which perhaps might have been accepted also, had it been less clumsily fabricated.
Finally, the old bills, punched and cut in two (see above), are sent to carefully
guarded maceraters — one in the Treasury Building for the destruction of the old
national bank notes, and another for the destruction of United States notes, at the
Bureau of Engraving and Printing ; there they are ground into wet pulp by means of
machines called maceraters.

CURRENCY DESTRUCTION COMMITTEE.
The maceraters are globe-shaped receptacles of steel, having the capacity of a ton of
pulp, the top of which opens by a lid secured by three different Yale locks. The Secre
tary of the Treasury has the key of one lock, the Treasurer that of
Maceration, another, and the Comptroller of the Treasury the third. Bach day at
1 p. M., these officials or their representatives, with a fourth agent to rep
resent the people and banks, open the macerater, and place within it the miUion dollars
or so of condemned currency or other securities which is to be destroyed, together with ?
suitable quantity of water. The lid is then locked in the three places, and machinery
begins to whirl around inside of the macerater a series of 150 knives which grind and
cut the soaking material until the notes are reduced to shreds and useless pulp. Once

THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 107
in four or five days the committee unlocks a valve and lets the accumulated pulp run
out into screening receptacles. It is thence taken to the Bureau of Engraving and
Printing, where it is rolled and dried into thick sheets and sold. Samples of it, now
and then, are disposed of to be made into the queer little figures sold as curiosities and
"supposed to contain" a hundred thousand dollars or so.
On one of the upper floors the Life-saving Service has a series of models and
specimens of the apparatus used in saving the lives of shipwrecked marines, which can
usually be seen ; in the office of the Supervising Architect are many
" highly executed drawings of elevations and plans of the public build- Branches of
ings erected by the United States, interesting to architects and civil the Treasury.
engineers;" the Department library has 30,000 volumes, and is open
to visitors ; and, lastly, a proper introduction will enable the visitor who is curious in
criminal matters to inspect the rogues' gallery and police museum of the Secret Service,
which deals with counterfeiters, smugglers, "moonshiners" or illicit distillers.
The Department of Justice and the Court of Claims, which attend to suits against
the Government, and give legal advice to its officers, occupy rented quarters, having
no building of their own. The former is on K Street, between Vermont
Avenue and Fifteenth Street, where the Attorney-General has his office. Justice.
The Court of Claims occupies the old Corcoran Gallery at Pennsylvania
Avenue and Seventeenth Street.
The General Post Office began in a postal system organized in the American colonies
as early as 1693 by patent to Thomas Neale. This expired in 1710, when the English
postal system was extended to the colonies, and it slowly grew until, in 1758. Benjamin
Franklin was appointed Deputy Postmaster- General for the Colonies. The Revolution
overthrew the royal mail, but when peace came the Continental Congress established
a new system, and put Franklin again in charge of the first United States mails. Postage
stamps were not adopted by the Government until 1847, and until lately were printed by
private contractors, but are now made at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. The
first building for this department was burned in 1836. The next one, occupied for
many years until the end of the century, was the Corinthian structure on Seventh Street,
next the Patent Office, now a part of the Department of the Interior.
The present Post Office is a modern structure on the south side of Pennsylvania
Avenue, between Eleventh and Twelfth streets, which contains both the General
Department and the City Post Office.
This building was authorized by Congress in 1890, and the site was Post Office.
purchased in 1891 at a cost of $650,000. The designs were made in the
office of the Supervising Architect of the Treasury, and executed under its direction to
the completion of the building in 1899. In style it is modified Romanesque, surmounted
by a lofty, square clock tower. The principal material is granite from Fox Island,
Maine, with steel columns and beams for the interior framework. The finish is in
marble from Tennessee and Vermont, varied by Red African and mottled Italian
marbles, with quartered oak and mahogany for the woodwork. The building measures
805 feet long by 300 feet wide, and encloses a court, roofed over by a skylight 180 feet
long by 99 feet wide. An interior skylight covers the court at the height of the first
story, forming an immense room for the accommodation of the City Post Office. The
total cost of the whole building was $3,335,000.
' The nine upper floors are devoted to the business of the Postmaster-General and
his department. These are open to the pubUc from 9 a. m. until 3 p. m., p^^^ Letter
but contain nothing of interest except the museum of the Dead Letter Office.
Office, which occupies Room 333 on the first floor above the street —
Twelfth Street side— and is open daily from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m. This is the bureau of the

108 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
department which receives and handles all mail that can not be delivered to its intended
recipients, by reason of lack of superscription, or improper or undecipherable addressing,
or because not called for within a reasonable time. Six or seven million pieces of lost
mail are thus returned to this office annually, and examined. If any clew to the writer,
or owner, or addressee can be found, the letter or package is at once sent to one or the
other of these persons. Newspapers are destroyed. Unidentified packages containing
any article of value are recorded and laid aside for six months, at the expiration of
which time they are sold at auction, and the money received is turned into the Treasury.
The Museum of the Dead Letter Office is a collection of the extraordinary objects
sent through the mails, and also of objects and papers identified with the postal his
tory of the country. The most striking exhibit, perhaps, is a great
l^Useum of collection of uncanceled postage stamps of foreign countries, includ-
Dead Letter ing stamped envelopes and post-cards, which have been sent to the
Office. American Post Office Department by foreign postal authorities. They
are elegantly arranged in swinging frames, the various sets embellished
by artistic borders and other ornaments. There are also complete sets of American
stamps, and philatelists will view these collections with extreme interest, and estimate
them at a very high money value. Other swinging frames contain pictures of the
flnest post offices in this country and abroad. More curious is a large series of small,
life-like models showing the dress and accouterments of postmen in India, China,
Persia, Japan, and other far Eastern countries. A series of the various locks and
keys used for mail bags is shown ; also the evolution of canceling stamps. Early
records of the Post Office fill one case, among them a set of accounts kept by Benja
min Franklin while Colonial Postmaster-General in 1753 ; also, in his handwriting,
the earliest record of the Dead Letter Office, date 1778. The stuffed skin of " Owney,"
the nondescript, shaggy dog who for several years spent his time traveling all over
this and other countries in postal cars, or loitering about post offices, is preserved in one
case ; it was the fashion to give him a "medal," in the form of a baggage check or some
similar ornament, wherever he went, and all these are hung about his body.
The most extraordinary part of the little museum, however, consists of the miscel
laneous objects that have been lost in the mails, the variety of which is endless,
and many of which are so odd as to provoke laughter. All sorts
Queer of small animals, stuffed, dried, in alcohol, and otherwise preserved.
Things Lost are here ; a human skull and many bones ; surgical instruments and
in the l^ails. medicines in abundance, besides a great array of pistols, knives, and
other death-dealing implements. Books have been gathered by thou
sands, and some of those saved for show here include valuable volumes in many
foreign languages, including Arabic, Chinese, and the raised text for the blind. Dolls
and toys enough to furnish half a dozen kindergartens might be taken from here,
and, in short, it would be hard to find a path of industry or a region of pleasure
or profit of which some reminder might not be found among this queer conglomer
ation of lost property. The City Post Office is open to the public at all hours of the day or
City night ; and its furnishings embody the latest improvements in postal
Post Office, methods. An Information Office is open during the day in the north
west corner of the ground floor.
The Department of the Interior, whose principal building is popularly known as the
Patent Office, manages internal or domestic affairs — the relations of our own people
with the Government. Hence the Secretary of the Interior is charged
Interior with the supervision of public business relating to patents for inventions,
Department, pensions, and bounty lands, the public lands and surveys, the Indians,

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NEW GENERAL POST OFFICE.— Pennsylvania Avenue, Eleventh and Twelfth Streets.

110 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
education, railroads, the geological survey, the census, the national parks, reservations,
and various of the public institutions, and Territories.
The Secretary and his assistants have their offices in the great Doric-
Patent Greek building, covering the two squares reaching from Seventh to Ninth
Office. streets, between F and G, which everybody calls the Patent Office,
because designed for and mainly occupied by that bureau.
The Hall of Models is still a spacious room on the main floor, but the removal of the
historical relics to the National Museum, and the fire of 1877, which destroyed 87,000
models and some 600,000 drawings, etc., have left little worth looking at. The office
has issued thus far about 600,000 patents, and its earnings have been far in excess of
the cost of buildings and all expenses since its origin.
Another prominent branch of the Interior Department is the Pension Bureau. This
occupies an immense red-brick building, 400 by 200 feet in dimensions and four stories
high, standing in Judiciary Square, on G Street, between Fourth and
Pension Fifth, and looking like a cotton factory without and a prison within. It
Office. has two gable roofs set crosswise and largely composed of glass, lighting
the vast interior court. The structure is said to be fireproof — a state
ment which caused General Sheridan to exclaim, "What a pity !" A band of terra
cotta, forming an ornamental frieze around the exterior of the building, just above the
first story windows, portrays a procession of spirited marching figures of soldiers of
the late war — horse, foot, and dragoons. This is the only artistic thing about the
building, and is worthy of a better setting. The offices, however, are more commodi
ous and comfortable than many in more ornate edifices, and open upon tiers of galleries
that surround all sides of a great tiled court. This court is broken by two cross-rows
of colossal columns and lofty arches sustaining the central part of the roof and painted
in imitation of Siena marble, while the lower gallery rests upon a colonnade of iron
pillars, speckled counterfeits of Tennessee marble. The floor of the court is well filled
with cases of drawers containing the papers of applicants for pensions, or an increase,
so tidily arranged that the file of each man can be referred to without delay. It is very
helpful, however, to know the registry number of the case, which is borne by every
paper pertaining to it. The cases on file exceed a million ; about 1,000,000 beneficiaries
are carried on the rolls, and the outlay of the bureau is now about $145,000,000 a year.
Over 1,800 persons, one-sixth of whom are women, are employed here, but room is left
for offices for the Railroad Commissioners on the third fioor. The United States Pen
sion Agency, where local pensioners are paid, is at No. 308 F Street.
The spacious covered court of this building has been used on the last three occasions
for the giving of the inaugural ball, which custom decrees shall take place on the even
ing of the day each new President is ushered into office. In the early
Inaugural days, when the minuet, stiff brocades, and powdered hair were still fash-
Balls. ionable, these were affairs as elegant and enjoyable as they were select
and stately; but latterly the number of officials and their families
properly entitled to attend such a semi-official function has become so great, and the
crowd who are able to buy tickets is so much greater, that no system of restriction thus
far devised has been successful in keeping this ball down to a manageable size. It is
said that 17,000 persons were crushed into the court of the Pension Office Building at
the inaugural ball of March 4, 1885, and the crowds since have prevented any dancing
or other real enjoyment of the festivities, which resulted only in injury to health, costly
toilets, and the building.
Census Off ice. The Census Bureau, charged with making the decennial census, was
placed in 1899 in a rented building, erected for its purposes, which
occupies half a square on B Street, between First and Second. It is a low,

THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS.

Ill

THE PATENT OFFICE.— F Street, N. W. Seventh to Ninth Streets.

THE PENSION OFFICE — J'jdiciary Square, Fourth, Fifth, and G Streets, N. W.

112

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

brick structure
without any arch
itectural preten
sions, and no vis
itors are admitted
to its busy offices.
The General
Land Office,
Land and
IndianOffices.
which is charged
with the survey,
management, and THE census bureau.
sale of the public domain, has quarters in the old Post Office building on Seventh Street,
which in 1899 became an annex of the Interior Department. Here, also, are the offices
of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs. The office of the Commissioner of Education
is near by, at the northeast corner of Eighth and G streets, where an extensive library
of pedagogy is open to the inspection of teachers. The Geological Survey has fine offices
in the Hooe Building, 1330 F Street.
Certain other branches of the Government, not under departmental control but
responsible directly to Congress, may be briefly spoken of here.
The Smithsonian Institution is the most important of these, and is elsewhere described.
The Government Printing Office, whose chief is styled " the Public Printer," is the
place where the Congressional Recwd, or report of the daily proceedings of Congress, is
printed; also all the public and private bills and documents for Congress,
Government the yearly departmental reports, and the enormous mass of miscellaneous
Prinlil^ publications of the Government. It is located on North Capitol and H
Office. streets ; 2, 900 persons are employed during the congressional session and
about 2,700 at other periods, and it is said to be the largest printing
office in the world. Everything connected with the making of books can be done there,
and the highest degree of excellence in printing and binding may be reached. It is run
under very systematic methods.
The Department of Labor, controlled by a commissioner, collects and publishes use
ful information on subjects connected with labor, promoting the material, social, intel
lectual, and moral prosperity of men and women who live by their daily earnings. It
publishes an annual report, largely statistical. The office is in the National Safe Deposit
Building at New York Avenue and Fifteenth Street.
The Civil Service Commission makes and supervises all regulations and
Civil Service, examinations respecting applicants for employment in the Government
service in those classes under the civil service law. It has offices in the
Concordia Building, Eighth and E streets.
The Bureau of American Republics, whose purpose it is to promote trade, intelli
gence, and comity among all the American republics, have offices at No. 3 Jackson Place,
at the southwest corner of Lafayette Square.
The Free Public Library has made a beginning at No. 1326 New York Avenue,
pending the erection of the building in Mount Vernon Square, to be given to the city
for its accommodation by Andrew Carnegie.

x. ".

« .

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW, LOOKING EAST FROM WASHINGTON MONUMENT.

VIII.
FEOM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS.
The Wasliingtoii Monument.
The dignity, symmetry, and towering height of Washington's character, as it now
presents itself to the minds of his countrymen, are well exempUfled in the majestic
simplicity of his monument in Washington. This pure and glittering shaft, asking no
aid from inscription or ornament, strikes up into heaven and leads the thought to a
patriotism as spotless and a manhood as lofty as any American has attained to. It is the
glory and grandeur of this superb monument that it typifies and recalls
not Washington the man, but Washington the character. It is really a Grandeur.
monument to the American people in the name of their foremost repre
sentative. It is in itself a constantly beautiful object, intensified, unconsciously to the
beholder, perhaps, by the symbolism and sentiment it involves. With every varying
mood of the changing air and sky, or time of day, it assumes some new phase of
interest to the.eye. Now it is clear and firm against the blue — hard, sharp-edged, cold,
near at hand ; anon it withdraws and softens and seems to tremble in a lambent envelope
of azure ether, or to swim in a golden mist as its shadow, like that of a mighty dial,
marks the approach of sunset upon the greensward that rolls eastward from its base.
The most picturesque view of it, doubtless, is that from the east, where you may
"compose" it in the distance of a picture, for which the trees and shrubbery, winding
roads and Norman towers, of the Smithsonian park form the most artistic of foregrounds.
This monument is the realization of a popular movement for a national memorial to
Washington which began before his death, so that he was enabled to indicate his own
preference for this site, and was expressed in a congressional resolution in
1799, which contemplated an equestrian statue. The death of Washington History.
revived the matter, and a bill appropriating $150,000 for a mausoleum
passed both houses, but was mislaid and not signed at the close of the session. The next
Congress was made up of Washington's political opponents, and his monument was no
more heard of until an association was formed, headed by the President of the United States
ex officio, which undertook to retrieve what it considered a national disgrace, and raised
a large sum of money for the purpose. This site was obtained, the corner-stone was laid
with impressive ceremonies on the 4th of July, 1848, and the work progressed until the
shaft had reached a height of 150 feet, when the funds gave out. The coming of the
Civil War turned men's attention elsewhere, but interest was revived by the wave of
patriotism developed by the Centennial year, under the influence of which Congress
agreed to finish the shaft. To Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., was
intrusted the task of enlarging and strengthening the foundations — a most difficult piece
of engineering which he accomplished with consummate skill. The foundations are
described as constructed of a mass of solid , blue rock, 146 feet square. " The base of
shaft is 55 feet square, and the lower walls are 15 feet thick. At the five-hundred-feet
elevation, where the pyramidal top begins, the walls are only 18 inches
thick and about 35 feet square. The inside of the walls, as far as they Dimensions.
were constructed before the work was undertaken by the Government in
1878—150 feet from the base— is of blue granite, not laid in courses. From this point
115

116 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
to within a short distance of the beginning of the top or roof, the inside of the walls is
of regular courses of granite, corresponding with the courses of marble on the outside.
Por the top marble is entirely used. The marble blocks were cut or ' dressed ' in the
most careful manner, and laid in courses of two feet by experienced and skillful work
men. There is no 'filling' or 'backing' between the granite and marble blocks, but
they are all closely joined, the work being declared ' the best piece of masonry in the
world.' By a plumb line suspended from the top of the monument inside, not three-
eighths of an inch deflection has been noticed. . . . The keystone that binds the interior
ribs of stone that support the marble facing of the pyramidal cap of the monument,
weighs nearly five tons. It is 4 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet 6 inches square at the top.
. On the 6th day of December, 1884, the capstone, which completed the shaft, was
set. The capstone is 5 feet 31 inches in height, and its base is somewhat more than three
feet square. At its cap, or peak, it is five inches in diameter. On the cap was placed a
tip or point of aluminum, a composition metal which resembles polished silver, and
which was selected because of its lightness and freedom from oxidation, and because it
will always remain bright."
The original design, prepared by Robert Mills, contemplated a shaft 600 feet in
height, rising from a colonnaded circular memorial hall, which was to contain statues of
the nation's worthies and paintings of great scenes in its history, "while the crypt
beneath would serve as a burial place for those whom the people should especially
honor." This plan has been definitely abandoned.
A staircase of 900 steps winds its way to the top, around an interior shaft of iron
pillars, in which the elevator runs ; few people walk up, but many descend that way, in
order to examine more carefully the inscribed memorial blocks which are
Interior. set into the interior wall at various places. Within the shaft formed by
the interior iron framework runs an elevator, making a trip every half
hour, and carrying, if need be, thirty persons. As this elevator and its ropes are of
unusual strength, and were severely tested by use in elevating the stone required for
the upper courses as the structure progressed, its safety need not be suspected. The
elevator is lighted by electricity and carries a telephone. Seven minutes are required
for the ascent of 500 feet ; and one can see, as it passes, all the inscriptions and carvings
sufficiently well to satisfy the curiosity of most persons, as none of those memorials
have any artistic excellence. Several not embedded in the walls are shown in the
National Museum. An officer in charge of the floor marshals visitors into the elevator,
and another cares for the observatory floor at the top ; but no fees are expected. The
surrounding grounds form Washington Park.
The view from the eight spytrf windows, which open through the pyramidon, or
sloping summit of the obelisk, 517 feet above the ground, includes a circle of level
country having a radius of from fifteen to twenty miles, and southwest
View from extends still farther, for in clear weather the Blue Ridge is well defined
the Top. in that direction. The Potomac is in sight from up near Chain Bridge
down to far below Mount Vernon ; and the whole district lies unrolled
beneath you like a map. To climb the Washington Monument is, therefore, an excel
lent method of beginning an intelligent survey of the capital, and of "getting one's
bearings." j
Looking first toward the north, the most compact part of the city is surveyed.
At the very foot of the monument are the artificial Carp Ponds, so called because,
years ago, the Fisheries Commission propagated European carp for distribution there.
Beyond, in the center-foreground, are the grounds of the Executive Mansion, rising
in a gentle slope to the White House. On its left stands the State, War, and Navy
Building; and to the left of that (and nearer) is the marble front of the Corcoran

¦»-«¦«

^;y:^

THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT.— Height, 555}^ Feet,

118 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Art Gallery, on Seventeenth Street, and beyond that is seen the old Octagon House,
on a straight line with the Naval Observatory, conspicuous in white paint and yellow
domes, three miles away amid the green hills beyond Georgetown. Nearer the water
than any of these is a large yellow house among the trees — the Van Ness mansion, one
of the first costly residences built in Washington.
Connecticut Avenue is the street leading from the White House straight northwest
to the boundary, where it breaks into the fashionable suburban parks on Meridian Hill,
at the left of which are the wooded vales of Rock Creek, near which
Northwestern the noble Anglican Cathedral is to arise. At the right of the White
Outlook. House is the Treasury, here seen to inclose two great courts. The
lines of Seventeenth, Sixteenth, Fifteenth streets, and of Vermont
Avenue, lead the eye across the most solid and fashionable northwest quarter of the
city to the more thinly settled hill-districts, where are conspicuous the square tower
of the Soldiers' Home (43^ miles), the lofty buildings of Howard University, and,
farther to the right and more distant, the halls of the Catholic University.
The eastern outlook carries the picture around to the right, and embraces the valley
of the Anacostia River, or eastern branch of the Potomac. Here the conspicuous object
is the Capitol (IJ^ miles distant), whose true proportions and supreme
Scene size can now be well understood. Over its right wing appears the
Toward the Congressional Library, its gilt dome flashing back the rays of the
Capitol. sun, and setting it out sharply against the Maryland hills. Between
the Monument and the Capitol stretches the green Mall, with the grounds
and buildings of the Agricultural Department nearest the observer ; then the castellated
towers of the Smithsonian, the low breadth of the National Museum, the red, shape
less pile of the Army Medical Museum, and the small Fisheries Building, leading the
eye as far as Sixth Street, beyond which are open parks. Somewhat to the right,
the course of the Pennsylvania Railroad, out Virginia Avenue, is seen as far as
Garfleld Park, where it disappears within a tunnel. This leads the eye to the
broad current of the Anacostia, which can be overlooked as far up as the Navy
Yard, and downward past the bridge to Anacostia, to where it joins the Potomac
at Greenleaf's Point. The military barracks there can be seen ; and this side of it,
along the harbor branch of the Potomac, are the steamboat wharves.
The view southward is straight down the Potomac, far beyond the spires of Alex
andria, six miles in an air line, to where it bends out of view around Cedar Point. Long
Bridge, which has been built sixty years or more, is in the immediate
Down the foreground, and the railways leading to it can be traced. To the right,
Potomac. the eye sweeps over a wide area of the red Virginia hills, thickly crowned
during the Civil War with fortiflcations, the sites of some of which may
be discovered by the knowing, and covers the disastrous fields of Manassas off to the
right on the level blue horizon.
The western view continues this landscape of Virginia, and includes about three
miles of the Potomac above Long Bridge. Close beneath the eye are the old and scat
tered houses of the southwest quarter, with the Van Ness homestead
Up the and the hill crowned by the old Naval Observatory on ground whert
Potomac. Washington meant to place his national university. Above that the cur
rent of the river is broken by Analostan, or Mason's Island, opposite the
mouth of Rock Creek, beyond which are the crowded, hilly streets of Georgetown, and
the Aqueduct bridge, leading to Roslyn, on the southern bank.*^ Then come the high
banks which confine and hide the river, and bear upon their crest the flashing basin of
the distributing reservoir. Beyond it, over the city of Georgetown, are the beautiful
wooded heights about Woodley, where President Cleveland had his summer home, and

FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS.

119

thousands of charming suburban houses are building. On the Virginia side of the river,
the Arlington mansion appears, somewhat at the left, and three miles distant ; more in
front, and neafer, the National Cemetery embowered in trees ; and behind it, the clus
tered quarters of Fort Meyer. The distance is a rolling, semi-wooded country, thickly
sown with farms, hamlets, and villages, among which Pall's Church is alone conspicuous,
and fading away to a high level horizoij; but when the air is clear, the eye can see and
rejoice in the faint but distinct outlines of the turquoise-tinted Blue Ridge, far away in
the southwest. Some Scientific Departments.
The public institutions along the south side of The Mall, dealing in a large part of
the scientific work of the nation, contain more to interest the stranger in Washington
than any other, except the Capitol itself. They include the Washington Monument, and
there are good reasons for advising that the ascent of this should be the very first thing
done by the visitor ; the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the Department of Agri
culture, the National and Army Medical museums in the Smithsonian grounds, and the
Fisheries Commission. It is a long day's task to make a satisfactory tour of these build
ings; and the National Museum alone has material for almost unlimited study in
many paths of knowledge. Let us begin with the Bureau of Engraving and Printing,
the name given to the Government's factory for designing, engraving,
and printing its bonds, certiflcates, checks, notes, revenue and postage BureaU Of
stamps, and many other official papers. It is under control of the Treas- Engraving
ury Department, and occupies a handsome brick building on Fourteenth and Printing.
Street, S. W., within flve minutes' walk of the Washington Monument.
It is three stories high, 330 feet long by 135 feet wide, and was built in 1878 at a cost
of $300,000. S Visitors are received from 10 to 3 o'clock, and wait in the reception-
room until an attendant (several women are assigned to this duty) is ready to conduct a

THE BUREAU OF ENGRAVING AND PRINTING. — Northeast Corner B «nd Fourteenth Street», S. W.

120

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

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party over the building, which is simply a crowded factory of high- class technical work,
the products of which have received the highest encomiums at several world's fairs in
Europe as well as in America.
Just east of this bureau, occupying large grounds between Fourteenth and Twelfth
streets, S. W., and reached from Pennsylvania Avenue by streetcars on both those
streets, and from the Capitol by the Belt Line along Maryland Avenue and B Street,
S. W., is the headquarters of the Department of Agriculture. This popular Depart
ment grew out of the special interest which early patent commissioners took in agri
cultural machinery, improvements, and the collection and distribution of seeds — a
function that formed a large part of its work until 1895. It was gradually separated
from the Patent Office work, erected into a commissionership, and finally
Department (1889) was given the rank of an executive department, the Secretary of
of Agriculture being the last-added Cabinet officer. His office is in the brick
Agriculture, building west of the Smithsonian grounds, and he has the help of an
assistant secretary, to whom has been assigned the direction of the great
amount of scientiflc work done, including the experiment stations, and the studies
of fibers, irrigation, and the department museum.
The scope of the work is now very extended, including the study of diseases of
live stock, and the control of the inspection of import and export animals, cattle trans
portation, and meat ; a bureau of statistics of crops, live stock, etc., at home and abroad ;
scientiflc investigations in forestry, botany, fruit culture, cultivation of textile plants,
and diseases of trees, grains, vegetables, and plants ; studies of the injurious or beneflcial
relations to agriculture of insects, birds, and wild quadrupeds ; investigations as to roads
and methods of irrigation ; chemical and microscopical laboratories, and a great number
of experiment stations, correspondents, and observers in various parts of this and other
FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 121
countries. The results of all these investigations and experiments are liberally pub
lished, and in spite of a sneer now and then the people are satisfied that the $3,300,000
or so expended annually by this department is a wise and profitable outlay.
There is a museum in a separate building in the rear of the main one, exhibiting
excellent wax models of fruits, nuts, and natural foods of various kinds; and an
especially full and interesting display of models showing the damage
wrought by many kinds of insects injurious to trees and plants; also an Agricultural
attractive and instructive exhibit, comprising a number of groups of Museum.
mounted birds, ground-squirrels, gophers, and other mammals, in natural
surroundings, each representing a chapter in the life history of the animal and showing
its relation to agriculture. These were exhibited at the World's Columbian Exposition,
at Chicago, in 1898, and excited admiration. The library and herbarium will interest
botanists. The ordinary visitor, however, will prefer to remain out of doors, where
years ago care made these grounds the best cultivated part of The Mall, and a practical
example of ornamental gardening. The extensive greenhouses must also be visited ; all
are open at all reasonable hours, and the palmhouse is a particularly delightful place in
a stormy winter's day. A tower in the garden, composed of slabs with their foot-thick
bark from one of the giant trees (sequoia) of California, should not be neglected, for it
represents the exact size of the huge tree, "General Noble," from which the pieces
were cut.
One important branch of the department — namely, the Weather Bureau — is domi
ciled at the corner of M and Twenty-fourth streets. There may be seen the delicate
instruments by which the changes of meteorological conditions are
recorded, and the method of forecasting the weather for the ensuing Weather
forty-eight hours, which is based upon reports of local conditions tele- Service.
graphed each night and morning from the observers in all parts of North
America, whereupon orders to display appropriate signals are telegraphed to each office.
The system grew up from the experiments of Gen. A. G. Myer, Chief Signal
Officer, U. S. A., who invented the present system and conducted it under the authority
of Congress (1870) as a part of the signal service of the army. Generals
Hazen and A. W. Greely, of Arctic fame, succeeded him and perfected Forecasting.
the service, but in 1891 it was transferred to the Department of Agricul
ture and placed in charge of a civilian ' ' chief " appointed by the President. In addition
to the forecasting of storms, etc., the bureau has in hand the gauging and reporting of
rivers; the maintenance and operation of seacoast telegraph lines, and the collection and
transmission of marine intelligence for the benefit of commerce and navigation; the
reporting of temperature and rainfall conditions for the cotton interests, and a large
amount of scientific study in respect to meteorology.
The Smithsonian Institution and National Museum are reached by crossing Twelfth
Street, S. W., and entering the spacious park. Near the gate stands a lifelike statue of
Joseph Henry, the flrst secretary of the Institution. It is of bronze, after a model by
W. W. Story, and was erected by the regents in 1884.
The Smithsonian Institution was constituted by an act of Congress to administer the
bequest of his fortune made to the United States by James Smithson, a younger son of
the Enghsh Duke of Northumberland, and a man of science, who died
in 1839. In 1838 the legacy became available and was brought over in Smithsonian
gold sovereigns, which were recoined into American money, yielding Institution.
$508,318.46. The language of this bequest was :
I bequeath the -whole of my property to the United States of America to found at Washington,
under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of
knowledge among men.

122

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The acceptance of this trust is the only action of the kind ever taken by the nation,
and the Institution stands in a peculiar relation to the Government. It is composed of
the President of the United States and the members of his Cabinet, ex officio, a chancellor,
who is elected, and a secretary, who is the active administrator of its affairs. The busi
ness of the institution is managed by a board of regents, composed of the Vice-President
and the Chief Justice of the United States, three Senators, three members of the House
of Representatives, and six other eminent persons nominated by a joint resolution of the
Senate and the House of Representatives. The immediate and primary object of the
board, as above constituted, is to administer the fund, which has now increased to about
$1,000,000, and in doing so it promotes the object of its founder thus :
(1) In the increase of knowledge by original investigation and study, either in science
or literature. (3) In the diffusion of this knowledge by publication everywhere, and
especially by promoting an interchange of thought among those promi-
Plan and nent in learning among all nations, through its correspondents. These
Scope. embrace institutions or societies conspicuous in art, science, or literature
throughout the world. Its publications are in three principal issues,
namely : The "Contributions to Knowledge," the " Miscellaneous Collections," and the
"Annual Report." Numerous works are published annually by it, under one of these
forms, and distributed to its principal correspondents.
There was early begun a system of international exchanges of correspondence and
publications, which forms a sort of clearing-house for the scientiflc world in its dealings
with Americans; and there is no civilized country or people on the globe where the
Institution is not represented by its correspondents, who now number about 34,000.
The immediate benefit to the Institution itself has been in enabling it to build up a great
scientific library of over 300,000 titles and mainly deposited in the Libraiy of Congress.
The Smithsonian Building, of Seneca brownstone, was planned by James Renwick,
the architect whose best known work, perhaps, is St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York.

THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.— The Mall, near B and Tenth Streets, S. W,

FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS.

123

It was completed in 1855. " Features selected from the Gothic and Romanesque styles
are combined in its architecture, but its e.xterior, owing chiefly to the irregular sky line,
is very picturesque and pleasing." Por the purposes of exhibition of specimens and
laboratory work, however, the building is badly lighted, wasteful of space, and other
wise unsuitable. The eastern wing was for many years the home of Prof. Joseph Henry,
the flrst secretary, but is now devoted to the offices of administration.
The Smithsonian Institution has under its charge, but not at the expense of its own
funds, certain bureaus which are sustained by annual appropriations. These are: The
United States National Museum, the Bureau of International Exchanges,
the Bureau of Ethnology, the National Zoological Park, and the Astro- Smithsonian
physical Observatory. Of the National Museum and the Zoological Park Bureaus.
more extended notice will be found elsewhere. The Bureau of Ethnology
is a branch of the work which studies the ethnology, history, languages, and customs of
the American Indians, and publishes the results in annual reports and occasional bulle
tins. It has been the means of collecting a vast amount of important and interesting
material illustrative of the primitive natives of this continent; and all this is. deposited in
the National Museum. The offices of this bureau are at 1330 F Street.

NATIONAL MUSEUM.— B Street, between Ninth and Tenth Streets.

In no single respect, perhaps, has the progress of the American capital been more
striking than in the history of the National Museum. Originating in a quantity of
"curiosities" which had been given to the United States by foreign
powers, or sent home by consuls and naval officers, old visitors to Wash- National
ington remember it as a heterogeneous cabinet in the Patent Office. In I^Useum.
1816 a step was taken toward something coherent and creditable, by an
act of Congress establishing a National Museum, following the precedent of a dozen or
more other nations ; but this intention took effect very slowly, though various explor
ing expeditions and embassies largely increased the bulk of the collections, which, by
and by, were trundled over to the Smithsonian building.

124 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
The main entrance is in the north front, and is surmounted by "an allegorical
group of statuary, by C. Buberl of New York, representing Columbia as the Patron of
Science and Industry. " Entering, you find yourself at once in the North Hall, with
the statuary, plants, and .fountain of the rotunda making a pleasing picture in the dis
tance. This hall is crowded with cases containing personal relics of great men, and
other historical objects.
The "relics" include a large quantity of furniture, apparel, instruments, table
ware, documents, etc., which belonged to Washington; many of them were taken
from Arlington, while many others were purchased, in 1878, from the
Personal heirs of his favorite (adopted) daughter, Nellie Custis, who became Mrs.
Relics. Lewis and lived until 1833. Articles that once belonged to Jefferson,
Jackson, Franklin (especially his own hand printing press), and several
other statesmen or commanders of note ; presents, medals, etc., given to naval officers,
envoys, and other representatives of the Government, by foreign rulers, are shown in
great numbers ; but all are well labeled and need here neither cataloging nor descrip
tion. A most brilliant and valuable cabinet is the collectioli of swords, presents, and
testimonials of various kinds given to General Grant during the war and in the course
of his trip around the world. A large display of pottery and porcelain, illustrating its
manufacture and characteristics, in China, Japan, Prance (SSvres), England, North
America, and elsewhere occupies many cases ; also a valuable series of lacquers.
At the right of this hall is the Lecture-room, beyond which, in the northwest
corner of the building, are the offices of the Director, of the Museum, and the Library.
The lecture-room is surrounded by models representing the home life of
Lectures. the American Indians, and upon its walls are hung the Catlin Gallery of
Indian paintings, made by George Catlin on the Upper Missouri plains
between 1833 and 1840. It is devoted to scientific conferences.
On the left of the entrance hall is a room devoted to the various implements used in
the fisheries, and beyond that an apartment where a great number and variety of
models of boats and vessels, especially those used in the fisheries of all parts of the
world, may be examined. These were largely collected during the tenth census.
Passing on into the Rotunda, the plaster model of Crawford's " Liberty," surmount
ing the dome of the Capitol, towers above the fountain-basin, and is surrounded by
several other models of statues, the bronze or marble copies of which
Rotunda. ornament the parks and buildings of New York, Boston, etc. All these
are fully labeled. The two great Haviland memorial vases here, whose
value is estimated at $16,000, were presented by the great pottery firm of Haviland, in
Limoges, France, and are the work of the artists Bracquemond and Delaplanche. One
is entitled " 1776," and the other " 1876," and they are designed to be illustrative of the
struggles through which this Republic has passed into prosperity.
Beyond the rotunda are halls devoted to mammals, mounted by scientific taxider
mists in a remarkably lifelike manner; to skeletons of existing and extinct animals;
and to geological specimens, minerals, ores, the building stones of the Union, and repre
sentative fossils — a department in which the museum is extremely rich, as it is the
depository of the United States Geological Survey.
In the middle halls of the building are an extraordinary number of articles — with
thousands more hidden away in storerooms for lack of space to exhibit them — of the
industrial arts of the world, and the life of its inhabitants in every
Costumes. climate, state of civilization, and condition of advancement. One hall is
devoted wholly, for example, to costumes and textile fabrics of every
sort. The lay figures wearing Hindoo, Persian, Japanese, American Indian, and other
costumes, were largely made for exhibition at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago.

FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 125
Where actual costumes are not available, figurines wearing a miniature of the native
dress, casts of statuettes, and pictures are used to increase the range of illustration. The
examples of the home life and arts of the Eskimo, among American savages, and of the
Japanese, among foreign peoples, are particularly numerous and complete. Particular
attention is called here to the series of fabrics, especially baskets, made from rushes,
grass, split roots, and the like, which is exceedingly instructive and beautiful. In
another hall the arts, architecture, machinery, weapons, navigation, agricultural imple
ments, tools, musical instruments, etc. , of the world are illustrated. Pottery forms a
large and richly furnished department, ranging from rude wares taken
from prehistoric graves to the finest product of Japan, China, India, Pottery.
England, and France. No other museum in the world has so large and
complete a series illustrating the native American pottery, and those interested in the
ceramic arts will pause a long time over the work of the Pueblo Indians of the South
west. It would be quite impossible to mention in detail one in a hundred of the objects
of artistic, historic, and scientific value in this overflowing museum ; and equally useless
to attempt to guide the visitor to their place, since the cases are continually being
moved about to make room for important accessions.
A considerable portion of the collections, indeed, remain in the old Smithsonian
building, and should not be neglected; they are open to the public from 9 to 4.30
o'clock. The halls on the ground floor there contain a splendid series of
birds, the ornithological collections here being among the most extended Old
and useful in the world. At the west end is an extensive and attractive Building.
display (highly instructive to artists as well as naturalists) of the inverte
brate marine life of both the fresh waters and of the seas adjacent to the-United States —
sponges, corals, starfishes, and other echinoderms, mollusks in wide and beautiful
variety, crabs and their kin, and many other preservable representatives of the humbler
inhabitants of the rivers and ocean.
The upper floor is a single lofty hall filled to overflowing with collections in anthro
pology, the handiwork of primitive and savage races of mankind. Illustrating the develop
ment, art, and social economy of uncivilized mankind, especially during the prehistoric
stone age. The models and paintings of Arizona cliff-dwellings ought especially to be
noticed. In the vestibule below are full-sized plaster models of the great circular calen
dar-stone of the Mexicans, etc.
The Army Medical Museum occupies the handsome brick building in the southeast
corner of the Smithsonian grounds, next to Seventh Street. This institution grew up
after the war, out of the work of the Surgeon-General's office, and con
tains a great museum illustrating not only all the means and methods of Army
militaiy surgery, but all the diseases and casualties of war, making a l^edical
grewsome array of preserved flesh and bones, affected by wounds or IMuseum.
disease ; or wax or plaster models of the effects of wounds or disease,
which the average visitor could contemplate only with horror and dismay.
This museum, nevertheless, is of the greatest interest and value to the medical
and surgical profession, and comprises some 35,000 specimens. In the anatomical
section there is a very large collection of human crania, and about 1,500 skeletons
of American mammals. In the miscellaneous sections are the latest appliances
for the treatment of diseases, all sorts of surgical instruments, and models of ambu
lances, hospitals, etc. The library is the most complete collection of medical and
surgical literature in the world, surpassing that of the British Museum.
The statue of Dr. Samuel D. Gross, in front of this museum, appro- StatUes.
priately commemorates one of the greatest of American surgeons (born
1805, died 1884), and an author and teacher of renown. It was erected from professional

126 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
subscriptions, and presented to the Government in 1897. It is of bronze, modeled
by Calder.
A beautiful monument to Daguerre, the originator of photography, stands near by
this. It was designed by Hartley of New York.
The United States Fish Commission is the last place to be visited on this side of The
Mall. It occupies the old ante-bellum arsenal on Sixth Street, from which that part of
the park between Sixth and Seventh streets derives its name. Armory
Fish Square. Here, on the basement floor, can be seen various aquaria
Commission, filled with growing plants and inhabited by fishes, rare and common, and
by quaint and pretty swimming and creeping things that dwell in the
rivers and sea. The apparatus involved in various forms of fish-hatching can be exam
ined, and perhaps the process may be watched in a series of tanks which is often so em
ployed. If it should happen that one of the railway cars, in which young fish are carried
about the country for planting in inland waters, is standing in the yard, it would be
worth the trouble to look at its arrangements. The upper floor of this building is de
voted to the offices of the Pish Commissioner and his assistants.

* ^>^^^^w^ -^>^>t

THE MALL. — View Lookmg North from Department of Agriculture.

IX.

THE COECORAN AND OTHER ART GALLERIES.

The Art Galleries of the city, properly speaking, are two in number ; but those
interested in statuary, pictures, and ceramics will find a great quantity of all these dis
played at the Capitol, in various department buildings, on the walls of the new Library
of Congress, and at the National Museum. Of first importance is the Corcoran col
lection: The Corcoran Art Gallery has no connection with the Government, although its
trustees are given a place in the Congressional Directory. It is wholly the result of the
philanthropy of a wealthy citizen, William Wilson Corcoran, who died
in 1893. "He early decided," it has been well said, "that at least one- W. W.
half of his money accumulations should be held for the welfare of men, Corcoran.
and he kept his self-imposed obligation so liberally that his charities,
private and public, exceed the amount of $5,000,000, and that ' he left no aspect of human
life untouched by his ben
eficence.' " The Corcoran
Gallery was opened in 1869,
in the noble building oppo
site the War Department.
This has now been super
seded by the splendid gal
lery on Seventeenth Street,
at New York Avenue, fac
ing the Executive grounds.
The Corcoran donations,
including the old lot and
building, have been $1, 600. -
000; and about $350,000
has been paid by the
trustees for paintings, be
sides what has been given.
A large number of casts of
classic statues, famous bas-
reliefs, and smaller carvings
in this gallery, are not only beautiful in themselves, but of great value to students.
This building has a length of 365 feet in Seventeenth Street, 140 feet in New York
Avenue, and 130 feet in E Street. In architecture it is Neo-Greek, after the plans of
Ernest Flagg of New York, and the external walls, above the granite
basement, are of Georgia marble, white, pure, and brilliant. There are Description
no windows on the second or gallery floor of the fa9ade, all the light for of Building.
the exhibition of the pictures coming from the skylight in the roof. The
only ornaments of this front are about the doorway, which is elaborately carved, and
under the eaves of the roof, where the names of the world's famous artists are inscribed
in severely simple letters. Entering the front door, the visitor is confronted by a grand
staircase, on the farther side of the great Statuary Hall, 170 feet long, which occupies the
129

THE CORCORAN GALLERY OF ARTS.

130

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

CHARLOTTE CORDAY IN PRISON.
Painting by Charles Louis Mullen

ground floor. This is so lighted by open
ings through the gallery floor that, for the
exhibition of casts in delicate Ughts, it can
not be surpassed in any other gallery of the
world. The second or gallery floor, where
the principal pictures are hung, under the
great glass roof, is supported by Doric
columns of Indiana limestone, above which
are Ionic columns supporting the roof.
On this floor are also four gallery rooms,
sixty-one feet by twenty-eight, and numer
ous small rooms for the exhibition of
water-colors and objects of art. On the
New York Avenue side is a semi-circu
lar lecture hall, with a platform and rising
floor to the side walls, which, with a good
skylight, make this room an excellent one
for private exhibitions. Attached to the
gallery is an art school, using two well-
lighted rooms fronting to the north,
with accommodations for a large number
of pupils. It is the intention to give
here annual art exhibitions of the work
of local and other American artists and students.
Among the older and more prominent paintings in the Corcoran collection are
the following: " The Tornado " by Thomas Cole, "The Watering-Place" by Adolphe
Schreyer, " Nedjma-Odalisque " by Gaston Casimir Saint Pierre, "Edge
Paintings. of the Forest" by Asher Brown Durand, "The Vestal Tuccia" by
Hector Le Roux, "Mercy's Dream" by Daniel Huntington, "Niagara
Falls" by Frederick Edwin Church. "Caesar Dead" by Jean Leon Ger6me, "On
the Coast of New England" by William T. Richards, "The Helping Hand" by
Emile Renouf, "The Death of Moses" by Alexander Cabanel, "Charlotte Corday
in Prison" by Charles Louis MilUer, "The Passing Regiment" by Edward Detaille,
"Wood Gatherers" by Jean Baptiste Camille Corot, "The Forester at Home" by
Ludwig Knaus, "Virgin and Child" by Murillo, "Christ Bound" by Van Dyck,
"Landscape" by George Inness, "The Schism" by Jean George Vibert, "The
Pond of the Great Oak " by Jules Dupr6, ' ' A Hamlet of the Seine near Vernon " by
Charles Fran9ois Daubigny, "Landscape, with Cattle," by Emile Van Marcke,
"Joan of Arc in Infancy" by Jean Jacques Henner, "The Banks of the Adige"
by Martin Rico, "Twilight" by Thomas Alexander Harrison, "The Wedding
Festival" by Eugene Louis Gabriel Isabey, "The Approaching Storm" by Narcisse
Virgile Diaz de la Pena, " Moonlight in Holland " by Jean Charles Cazin, "Approach
ing Night" by Max Wey, "Sunset in the Woods" by George Inness, "El Bravo
ibro" by Aim^ Nicholas Morot. Some noteworthy late additions. are: "The Land
scape of Historical Bladensburg" (in 1887), the "First Railway in New York" by
E. L. Henry, and Charles Gutherz' (Paris, 1894) great canvas of the "Bering Sea
Arbitration Court," which is accompanied by an explanation and key to the portraits.
Recently added are : J. G. Brown's large and greatly admired canvas "The Longshore
man's Noon Hour," which has the "Honorable Mention" of the Paris Salon; "The
Road to Concarneau " by W. L. Picknell, " Eventide " by Robert C. Minor, a landscape
by H. W. Ranger, and "The Adoration of the Shepherds" by Mengo.

THE CORCORAN AND OTHER ART GALLERIES.

131

LAST DAYS OF NAPOLEON I.— Marble Figure by Vincenzo Velos.

One room is devoted to
portraits, in which is prom
inently hung a portrait of
Mr. Corcoran, by Elliott.
Around him are grouped
a great num
ber of the Portraits.
Presidentsof the United States and
many famous Americans,
making the collection not
only interesting histori
cally, but particularly val
uable as illustrating the
styles of most of the
earlier American portrait
painters. Of the marbles, Hiram
Powers' "Greek Slave" is
perhaps the
most cele- Marbles.
brated. To
Vincenzo Velas' seated fig
ure of the "Last Days of
Napoleon " is given special
prominence by its central
position in the upper hall.
The exquisite little statue
of the weeping child, en
titled "The Forced

Prayer," by Guarnario, always brings a smile to the face of visitors.
The Barye Bronzes are especially notable as the largest collection extant of the fine
animal figures and other works of this talented French modeler ; they
number about 100. The 'small model of the statue to Frederick the Bronzes and
Great, and the numerous electrotypic reproductions of unique metallic Replicas.
objects of art preserved in European museums, are other things that
the intelligent visitor wiU dwell upon among the wealth of beautiful things presented
to his view in this art museum.
The Tayloe Collection is a bequest from the family of Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, whose
richly furnished home is still standing on Lafayette Square. It consists of some two
hundred or more objects of art, ornament, and curious interest, includ
ing marbles by Powers, Thorwaldsen, Greenough, and Canova ; portraits Tayloe
by Gilbert Stuart, Huntington, and foreign artists, and many other paint- Collection.
ings ; a large number of bronze objects and pieces of furniture, including
Washington's card table and other pieces that belonged to eminent men, and a large
series of porcelain, glass, ivory, and other objects, which are both historically and artis
tically interesting. A special catalogue for this collection is sold at 5 cents.
The Waggaman Gallery ought surely to be examined by all culti- Waggaman
vated travelers. It is at No. 3300 O Street, Georgetown, and is easily Gallery.
reached by either the F Street or Pennsylvania Avenue stree -ars.
This gallery is the private acquisition of Mr. E. Waggaman, and contains a large

132

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

number of fine paintings, the specialty being Dutch water-colors, where the Holland-
ish style and choice of subjects are well exhibited. The most striking and valu
able part of the collection, however, is undoubtedly that representing Japanese work
in pottery, stone, and metal. The series of tea jars, antique porcelains, and modern
wares, showing rare glazes and the most highly prized colors, is extensive and well
chosen ; and a wonderful array of bronzes and artistic work in other metals in the
form of swords, sword-guards, bells, utensils of various forms and capacities, and
decorative compositions, excites the enthusiasm of connoisseurs in this department.
The gems of this su- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ P^''^ cabinet, how-
H^^^^^^H|^|^^^^^^^m| of jade, in which this
has few ^^^^^^^V^^^^^^^^^^^^l superiors; among
the ^^^^^^^H . ^^^^^^^^^^H cent
carved jade, ^^^^^^^^^B 'JRI^^^^^^^^I ^^^Q^^ ^^^ United
States, are certainly ^^^^^K^^r -:^^^^^^^^^^^^ unsurpassed. A
large number ^^^^^^^1 ^^^^^^^^M ivory carvings, teak-
wood stands of ex- ^^^^^^^ft ^^^^^^^H quisite design, and
other ^^^^^^^^H0 %''^ ^^^^^^^^^M and
workmanship, make ^^^^^^^^M ^^^^^^^^H this gallery notable.
Visitors are ad- ^^^^^^^^B T^^^^^^^^M fitted on Thursdays
of each week during ^^^^^^^V ,^, ^^^^l^^^^^l January, February,
March, and April, ^^^^^^^ft -^ ^^^^^^^H between and 4
o'clock, by paying ^^^^^^^^ft ^^^^^^^^|' 50 cents for each
admission toward a ^^^^^^^Hk ,^^^^^^^H charitable fund.
The Halls the ^^^^^^f ' ^^^^^H Ancients the
given to a perma- ^^^^^|^^H ^^^^^^^| exhibition of
ancient architecture ^^^^^^^^B 4^^^^^^^^l ^^^ ^^ at.Nos. 1313
to 1818 New York ^^^^^^Hjk ' m^^^^^l Avenue. . Open
A. M. to 6 F. ]vi. ; ^^^^^^^^^B ^ ^^^^^^^^1 admission 35 cents.
The projector is Mr. ^^^^^^^T^ , j- ^^^^^^H Franklin
Smith of Boston, ^^^^^^H ^^^^^^1 ^^° ^^
"the promotion of i^^^^^^R ^'^^^^H National
J! TT- t J A .. ,. VENUS OF MELOS. — Cast r
of History and Art. ' . Leasing,
financial co6peration of Mr. S. Walter Woodward of Washington, a large plot of
ground, he has reared upon it a building for the concrete exhibition of the life and
art of ancient peoples.
"The trouble with most museums," Mr, Smith asserts, "is that they deal with dead
things exclusively when they deal with antiquities at all. A room full of mummies is,
doubtless, interesting in its way, but I do not believe the student of ancient history gets
so good a background for bis studies from such an exhibition as from one in which he
is actually introduced into the midst of the domestic, social, and religious life of the
people of whom he has read — their surroundings, in other words, before they became
mummies. We gather in museums an endless variety of fragmentary relics, and we call
that a contribution to popular education. But how much more can we do toward edu
cating the people if we can show them, through their eyes, just what use was made of
each of these relics while it was still in touch with the life of its period, the part it
played in the daily activities of its owner, and the infiuence it presumptively had on
his career."
The ancient nationalities illustrated are Egyptian, Assyrian, Grseco-Roman, and
Saracenic peoples.
The Egyptian Portal designed is a reproduction of the section of the Hypostyle Hall
of Karnak in exact size of the original ; columns 70 ft. high and 13 ft. in diameter. It is

Webster
in view
Galleries
by the

IN THE HALLS OF THE ANCIENTS— The Egyptian Hails of Gods and Kings.

134

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

the entrance to the Hall of Gods and Kings, more grand in dimensions and beautiful
in color than that (the Saulenhof) built by Lepsius in the museum at Berlin, and
contains twelve decorated columns in three styles — the Lotus Bud, the Palm, and
Hathor capitals — with wall decorations and the throne pavilion reproduced by Lepsius.
The Upper Egyptian Hall contains the beautiful interior of an Egyptian house and
court designed by Racinet. The larger section, 33 feet by 42 feet, is for illustration of the
arts and crafts of the Egyptians. A dado 73 feet in length displays a facsimile in color of
the Papyrus of Ani, or Book of the Dead, from the British Museum. On the staircase
wall is a copy, 10 feet by 7 feet, of Richter's "Building of the Pyramids," and adjacent,
one of like size of Long's "Egyptian Feast"; also a cast of the Rosetta Stone.
The Assyrian Throne Room is gorgeous in blue and gold. A section is walled with
casts from the Nineveh and Nimroud slabs in the British Museum, and paintings of
others. The portal is between the four colossal human-headed bulls found in the Palace
of Sennacherib. The Throne of Xerxes from Persepolis is set up, modeled from the
original in the Louvre.
The Roman House upon the ground floor, with entrance from the Hall of Columns,
covers 10,000 square feet. Its decorations, which cover more than 15,000 square feet of
surface, are copied in part from the beautiful House of Vettius. This exceeds in size
and completeness Mr. Smith's well-known House of Panza in Saratoga.
The Taberna (shop) occupies the lower floor of the Roman House, and contains
superb illustrations of Greek vases, full size. Replica copies thereof will be made for
supplying schools and individuals with models of form and beauty in decoration.
The Lecture Hall, in Persian style of ornamentation, contains the painting of the
Grandeur of Rome in the time of Oonstantine, covering more than 500 square feet, after
the original by Buhlmann and Wagner of Munich.
The Saracenic Halls are a counterpart of the beautiful House of Benzaquin in
Tangiers, with casts of traceries from the Alhambra.
The Art Gallery is devoted to Roman history. The walls are surrounded by 103
plates from Pinelli's ' ' Istoria Romana " — in historical order from the foundation of Rome.
On special occasions, illustrations are given with stereopticon after an explanatory
course through the halls. (See plates Egyptian Hall, pages 133 and opposite 304.) A
descriptive hand-book, with fifty illustrations, is. loaned to visitors. It is pubUshed
in Senate Document No. 309.
The ultimate object of the construction of the Halls is to illustrate Mr. Smith's design
for National Galleries of History and Art according to view annexed. The plan is
elaborately set forth in Senate Document No. 309; 444 pages, octavo, with 373 illustra
tions, published by unanimous consent of the Senate — LVIth Congress, first session, Feb
ruary 13, 1900. ' "^ " DESIGN FOR
NATIONAL GALLERIES
IN WASHINGTON —
ByFi..nl<lin Webster Smitn.

See page 133,
and
Advertisement page VII.

CHURCHES, CLUBS, THEATERS, ETC.

Washington has a great number of churches of every denomination and in all
parts of the city. Only a few of the most conspicuous of these need be mentioned.
The oldest are Rock Creek Church, near the Soldiers' Home ; Christ
Church, near the Navy Yard, and St. John's, on Lafayette Square. All Episcopal.
these are Episcopal, and have been elsewhere described. Other prom
inent Episcopal churches are : Epiphany (G Street, near Fourteenth), which, like
several other church societies in the city, has a suburban chapel ; the Church of the
Ascension, at Massachusetts Avenue and Twelfth Street ; old St. John's, prominent
in Georgetown; and St. James-, at Massachusetts Avenue and Eighth Street, N. E.,
on Capitol Hill, very highly ritualistic. The Roman Catholics have many fine
churches and a large influence in Washington, fostered by their universities. Their
oldest church is St. Aloysius, at North Capitol and S streets ; and St. Matthew's,
Rhode Island Avenue near Connecticut Avenue, is probably the most fashionable.
Congregationalism is represented most prominently by the First Church, at G and
Tenth streets, which has always been a leader in religious philanthropy, especially
toward the Freedmen. The Presbyterian churches are among the oldest
and largest. The leading one, perhaps, is the First, which remains in Presbyterian.
Four-and-a-half Street, and became famous under the care of Dr. Byron
Sunderland, when it was attended by President Cleveland. An ofl'shoot from it
was the New York Avenue Church, w;hose big house is so conspicuous in the angle
between that avenue and H Street at Twelfth. Out of this has sprung the Gurley
Memorial, near Seventh Street and the Boundary ; and the Church of the Covenant,
wliose great square tower is a conspicuous ornament on Connecticut Avenue. Well-
known Methodist churches
are the Metropolitan Mem
orial, down in Four-and-
a-half Street ; the Foundry
Church, at G and Four
teenth streets, which Pres
ident Hayes attended ; and
the Hamline, at Ninth and
P streets. A leading Bap
tist church is Calvary, at
Eighth and H streets.
The S w edenborgians
have a white stone build
ing at Cor
coran and Other De-
Sixteenth nominations.
streets; and
the Unitarians, the well-
known Church of All Souls,

ST. JOHN'S CHURCH.

135

136

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

at Fourteenth and L streets. The Universalist meeting-house is at L and Thir
teenth streets. The " Christian " Society, of which President Garfleld was a mem
ber, worships in its Memorial Church on Vermont Avenue, between N and
O streets. The Lutheran Memorial Church, on Thomas Circle, is foremost in that
denomination, and the service is in English. Colored churches are numerous,
chiefly Methodist and Baptist ; in the former ,the strongest is Asbury, at Eleventh
and K streets, and in the latter the Abyssinian, at Vermont Avenue and R Street.
The theaters in Washington attract the flnest traveling companies, including occa
sional grand opera. The newest and most ornate house is the Lafayette Square Opera
House, occupying a historic site on Madison Place, Lafayette Square.
Theaters Another large theater is the Grand Opera House, on Fifteenth Street,
and the at the corner of E Street, one block south of Pennsylvania Avenue, now
Opera. devoted to vaudeville. The new National Theater, on Pennsylvania
Avenue, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, is of great capacity
and comfort, and holds the popularity it gained long ago. The Academy of Music is
another well-known
house, at Ninth and
D streets. The Col
umbia is the newest
addition to the com
mendable theaters.
It is at 1112 FStreet,
occupying what for
merly was Metzerott
Hall. Kernan's Ly
ceum, at 1014 Penn
sylvania Avenue,
and Butler's Bijou,
give variety shows.
Certain churches
are the principal
places for lectures
and the like, but
scientific lectures are
usually heard in the
hall at the National
Museum, or in the
lecture-room of the
Cosmos Club.
Convention Hall
is an immense arched
apartment over a
market where New
York Avenue crosses
L and Fifth streets,
and is intended for
the use of conven
tions. The clubs of the
capital are not among
its "sights," but southeast Corner tighteenth and N streets, N. W,

THE CHURCH OF THE COVENANT.
Southeast Corner Eighteenth and N Streets,

'^^^VlH)li.&\ CLUBS, THEATERS, ETC. 137
should receive a few words. Most prominent among them is the Metropolitan,
characterized elsewhere. Next in social importance, probably, is the Army and
Navy, which has a handsome six-story building .opposite the south
eastern corner of Farragut Square. Its triangular lot has enabled Army and
the architect to make a serres of very charming principal rooms, in IVavy ClUb.
the northwestern front, where the sunshine streams in nearly all
day. These and the many connecting apartments are luxuriously furnished and
adorned with pictures, including original portraits of a dozen or more of the
principal commanders of the army and navy, fl-om Paul Jones to W. T. Sherman.
Only those identified with some military organization are eligible to membership,
but the club is very liberal in extending a welcome to visiting militiamen, foreign
military men, and others suitably introduced. One feature of this club is the
informal professional lecture given to the members once a month by some expert.
The Cosmos Club has been referred to elsewhere ; the Columbia Athletic Club is a
large association of young men, partly social and partly athletic, which has a field in
the gardens of the old Van Ness mansion. The Country Club, near
Tenallytown, and the Chevy Chase Club, have already been mentioned. Minor ClUbs.
Allied to them, within the city, are several clubs of amateur photog
raphers, golf players, bicycle riders, tennis and ball players, and boatmen, Washing
ton being a place famous for oarsmen. The two women's clubs must not be for
gotten : One is the fashionable Washington Club, on H Street, opposite the French
Embassy, and the other the Working Women's Club, a purely social organization,
at 606 Eleventh Street, composed of women who earn their living — physicians,
journalists, stenographers, etc. Both these clubs give teas, musicales, and other
feminine entertainments. The Alibi is a coterie of well-fed gentlemen who give
chaa-ming feasts, laigely of their own cooking, and cultivate a refined Boheniianism ;
while the Gridiron is a dining-club of newspaper men, who have a jolly dinner
among themselves once a month, and an annual spread to which all the great men
available are invited, and where most of them are good-naturedly guyed.
The Young Men's Christian Association flourishes here — and in 1898 took posses
sion of the fine h^use and gymnasium built by the Columbia Athletic Club on G
Street near Nineteenth.

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW, LOOKING NORTH F?ROM WASHINGTON MONUMENT.

XI.
OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL.
Washington society is distinguished from that of other cities mainly by its semi-
oflBclal character, and in a manner that is not reproduced in any other capital the world
over. The official etiquette which surrounds its social observances is
simple, and, although new conditions have tended to make some part Local
of the code complex to those who would wish to see its rules as clearly Society
defined as constitutional amendments, the most important of its cus- Features.
toms have become laws which are generally accepted. The ever-
changing personality of the heads of the executive branches of the Government, and
of the law-makers themselves, together with that innate hatred for anything partak
ing too much of court ceremonial, precedence, etc., which is strong in the average
American, were good enough reasons for the last generation in leaving these questions
unsettled, and will in all probability even better answer the bustling spirit of the
present actors upon the social stage. To the stranger who wishes to meet persons of
national prominence at ofiicial gatherings, and to catch, besides, a glimpse of that
plant of slower and more substantial growth — residential society— the path can be
made very easy and the way clear.
The President, as the head of the nation, is entitled to flrst place whenever he
mingles in social life. Whether the second place belongs to the Vice-President or to
the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court has not been defined any
clearer than whether the Speaker of the House is entitled to precedence Formalities
over members of the Cabinet. In the popular mind, the second place is at the White
accorded the Vice-President by virtue of his right of succession to the Hoiise.
highest oflBce in the gift of the people, by the death, resignation, or dis
ability of the President. Since the passage of the Presidential Succession bill (Janu
ary 19, 1886), the Cabinet is given precedence over the Speaker by the same process
of reasoning. The official social season extends from New Year to Ash Wednesday, the first day
of Lent. All the formal hospitalities at the Executive Mansion occur
within this period. On New Year's the President holds a reception. Official
which begins at II o'clock andcloses at 2 p.m. The Vice-President and Season.
the Cabinet are first received and then the Diplomatic Corps ; after that
body, the Supreme Court, Senators and Members of Congress, officers of the army
and navy, department chiefs, etc. The last hour is given to the public.
During the season three or more card receptions (known in the early days of
White House entertaining as "levees") are held evenings — 9 to 11.
The first is in honor of the Diplomatic Corps and the others for the Card
Judiciary, the Congress, and the Army, Navy and Marine Corps. Invi- Reception.
tations are sent to those named, to other officials of the executive and
legislative departments, and to acquaintances of the President and family among
residents of the capital and other cities. Diplomats wear either court or military
uniforms and officers of the three branches of the service also appear in uniforms.
Guests unknown to the doorkeepers should be prepared to show invitations. The
139

140 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
last reception of the series is for the public. Advance notice is given in the daily
papers of the date.
The President is assisted on these occasions by his wife, the wife of the Vice-
President, and the Cabinet ladies. The state dining-room, at the west end of the
house, is used as a cloakroom. Having laid aside their wraps, several
Reception hundred persons are usually assembled in the main corridor when
Ceremony. the President and wife and the receiving party descend to the Blue
Room, where these receptions are held. Guests approach the Blue
Room through the Red Room. Each person announces his or her name to the usher,
who stands at the threshold of the Blue Boom. He repeats it to the army officer
who stands next to the President and who presents each person to him. The
President always shakes hands. Another army officer standing in front of the Presi
dent's wife repeats each name to her. The ladies assisting shake hands with each
person who ofiers a hand to them. A knowledge of this fact on the part of stran
gers will avoid mutual embarrassment. Some ladies in the ultra-fashionable set make
deep courtesies to each person instead of shaking hands, when going down the line at
these receptions, but the custom has not grown in favor. If not invited to join those
back of the line, guesis pass through the Green to the East Room. In this stately
apartment the gatheiing assumes its most brilliant aspect. '-
In the case of a public reception, persons approach the White House by the
west gate and a line is formed, which frequently extends as far west as Seventeenth
Street, those coming last taking their places at the end. After the
Public threshold of the White House is crossed, the line is a single file through
Receptions, the vestibule, the corridor, and the Red Room to the Blue Room. As
in the case of a guest at a card reception, each person announces his or
her name to the usher, by whom it is repeated to the army officer who makes the pre
sentations to the President. These rules are also observed when the wife of the
President holds a public reception.
The state dinners alternate with the levees. The first dinner is given in honor of
the Cabinet, the second in honor of the Diplomatic Corps, and the third in honor of the
Judiciary. The President and his wife receive their guests in the East
Dinner Room, an army officer making the presentations. When the butler
Formalities, announces dinner, the President gives his arm to the lady whose hus
band's official position entitles her to precedence and leads the way to
the state dining-room. If a dinner of more than forty covers is given, the table is
laid in the corridor.
An invitation to dine with the President may not be declined, excepting where
serious reasons can be stated in the note of regret. A prior engagement is not con
sidered a sufficient reason, and, in fact, nothing less than personal ill-health, or seri
ous illness, or a death in one's family would excuse one from obedience to a summons
to the table of the President.
In conversation, the Chief Executive is addressed as " Mr. President." In writing
as "The President of the United States."
The wife of the President enj --ys the same privileges as her husband. She receives
first calls from all and returns no visits. Persona desiring an interview with her
express their wish by letter.
As the President and wife may or may not make calls, so it is entirely at
their option whether or not they accept insitations. For the last ten years the
Cabinet circle has been the hmit, but previous to that the Presidents accepted
hospitalities generally. Under no circumstances, however, will either the President

UJ^HICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL. 141
or his wife cross the threshold of any foreign embassy or legation, although mem
bers of their family may do so.
The hours for the reception of visitors at the Executive Mansion President's
change with each administration. The house rules are always posted Hours.
conspicuously at the entrance. Those having business with the Presi
dent arrange for interviews with his private secretary, whose proper title is Secretary
to the President.
The Vice-President and wife make only first calls on the President and wife.
They enjoy the same immunity from returning calls. The same courtesy which
recognizes the members of the Cabinet as in the official family of the
President, includes the Senatorial circle in the ofiicial family of the Yice-
Vice-President. The Vice-President and wife, therefore, return Sena- President.
torial calls. They receive on New Y"ear's at their own residence, first
official callei-s and then the public. Throughout the season, the wife of the Vice-
President receives callers on Wednesday afternoons from 3 to 5. In conversation, the
Vice-President is addressed as "Mr. Vice-President."
The wife of the Speaker of the House of Representatives receives on Wednesday,
at the same hours as the Cabinet ladies. The Speaker is addressed as " Mr. Speaker."
The relative precedence of Cabinet officers has been established by the wording
of the Presidential Succession bill. It is as follows : The Secretary of State, the
Secretary of the Treasury, the Secretary of War, the Attorney-General,
the Postmaster-General, the Secretary of the Navy, the Secretary of the Cabinet
Interior, and the Secretary of Agriculture. The official designation, Precedence,
preceded by the phrase, " The Honorable  " is the correct form in
writing to any one of them. In conversation, a Cabinet officer is addressed as
"Mr. Secretary."
The Cabinet ladies receive the public on stated Wednesday afternoons, during the
season, from 3 to 5. The name of each guest is announced by the butler as the hostess
is approached. Each hostess is usually assisted, in these formal hospitalities, by a
number of ladies — young girls predominating. They are expected to address visitors
and to make their stay pleasant. Callers, except under exceptional cir
cumstances, do not extend their stay over ten or fifteen minutes, and it Cabinet
is not necessary that any good-bys should be exchanged with the host- Receptions.
ess when leaving. As these receptions are frequently attended by from
four to eight hundred people, who for the most part are strangers, the reason for the
slight disregard of the usual polite form isobvious. No refreshments are nowofiered,
which is also a change from the custom which prevailed several years ago. Visitors
leave cards.
Callers wear ordinary visiting dress. The hostess and assistants wear high-necked
gowns, however elaborate their material and make. This fact is mentioned because
a few years ago the reverse was the case, and low-necked evening dresses were gen
erally worn by the receiving party at afternoon receptions. At that period also, men
frequently appeared on such occasions in full-dress evening suits, swallow-tail coats,
etc. In fact, full-dress on both men and women was not unusual at the President's
New Year reception, a dozen years ago, under the impression then
current that street clothes were not in keeping with a function second to Rules for
none in point of ceremony from our standpoint, and which was attended Dress.
by the Diplomatic Corps in court dress or in dazzling military or naval
uniforms. Customs in these matters have changed so entirely that a violation of the
accepted fashion makes of the oflender a subject for ridicule. The proper costume
for a woman to wear to the President's New Year reception is her best visiting dress

142 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
with bonnet or hat, the same that she would wear at an afternoon reception. A man
will dress for the President's New Year reception as he will for any other ceremoni
ous daylight event. Neither low-necked gowns nor dress suits are permissible until
after 6 o'clock.
The same proprieties of modern custom in dress should be observed when attend
ing evening receptions at the White House or elsewhere. Evening dress is impera
tive, which, in the case of women, may mean as elaborate or as simple a toilet as the
wearer may select, but it implies an uncovered head. Bonnets or hats must not be
worn. By a rule adopted during the first Cleveland administration, the Cabinet ladies do
not return calls generally, but do send their cards once or twice each season as an
acknowledgment. The Cabinet ladies make the first call upon the ladies of the Su
preme Court circle, the families of Senators, and the families of foreign ambassadors.
Certain days of the week are set apart by custom for making calls upon particular
groups, and no mistake should be made in this respect. The ladies of the Supreme
Court families receive callers on Monday afternoons, Congressional
Calling: families on Tuesdays, the Cabinet families on Wednesdays, and the
Days. Senatorial families on Thursdays, with the exception of those residing
on Capitol Hill, who observe the day of that section, which is Monday.
By virtue of another old custom, Tuesday is K Street day; Thursday calling- day for
upper H and I streets ; Friday for residents of upper F and G streets, and Saturday for
Connecticut Avenue and vicinity. Calling hours are from 3 to 6.
The discussion which has been going on for years, and is now as far from settle
ment as ever, as to whether Supreme Court Justices and families pay the flrst call to
Senators and families, or vice versa, is only of interest to the stranger as a phase of
Washington life showing the grave importance given to these points by some official
households and of the absolute indiflference with which they are viewed by others.
The Diplomatic Corps consists of six ambassadors, representing Great Britain,
France, Italy, Germany, Russia, and Mexico, and twenty-five ministers plenipotentiary,
of which a circumstantial list will be found at the end of this book. They are ranked
in the order of their seniority. Each embassy and legation has a corps
Social of secretaries and attaches. The *H*ieh Ambassador, iasduEaaBeeifoite,
Rules in -is-tbe dean of the corps, having been the first ambassador appointed.
Diplomatic Official etiquette as regards the corps has changed since the coming of
Corps. ambassadors. Ambassadors are given precedence by ministers. By
virtue of long-established custom, to quote Thomas Jefierson, "foreign
ministers, from the necessity of making themselves known, pay the first visit to the
ministers of the nation, which is returned." Ambassadors claim that they only call
on the President because that is the habit of European countries. It is generally
understood that all persons, official or otherwise, pay the first call to the embassies.
The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps have no special day on which to receive callers,
each household making its own rules in this respect.

XII.
STEEETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.
The only residence of the President of the United States, in Washington, is the
Executive Mansion ; but that is rather more uncomfortable than the average Wash
ington house in midsummer, and all the later Presidents have been
accustomed to seek a country home during hot weather. President President.
Lincoln used to live in a cottage at the Soldiers' Home ; President
Grant spent one summer in the same house, and President Hayes occupied it every
summer during his term.
The Secretary of State lives in his own house. Sixteenth and H streets ; the Secre
tary of the Treasury at No. 1715 Massachusetts Avenue; and the Secretary of War at
No. 1626 Rhode Island Avenue. The Attorney-General and the Post
master-General are on the same block, at Nos. 1707 and 1774 respec- Cabinet.
tively ; the Secretary of the Navy lives at The Portland ; the Secretary
of the Interior at The Arlington ; and the Secretary of Agriculture at 1022 Vermont
Avenue. Mr. Chief Justice Fuller resides in his own house. No. 1801 F Street ; Mr. Justice
Harlan on Meridian Hill ; Mr. Justice ^Eaty-^t- N«y;-'re«'I'-Stlreet ; Mr.
Justice Brewer at No. 1412 Massachusetts Avenue ; Mr. Justice Brown Justices.
at No. 1720 Sixteenth Street ; Mr. Justice Shiras at No. 1515 Massachu
setts Avenue; Mr. Justice White at No. 1717 Rhode Island Avenue ; and Mr. Justice
Peckham at No. 1217 Connecticut Avenue.
Lafayette Square was the name selected by Washington himself for the square in
front of the Executive Mansion, for which he foresaw great possibilities ; but it
remained a bare parade ground, with an oval race course at its west
end, until after the disastrous days of 1814. Then, when the White Lafayette
House had been rehabilitated, a beginning was made by President Square.
Jefferson, who cut off the ends down to the present limits (Madison
Place and Jackson Place), and caused the trees to be planted. No doubt he had a
voice in placing there, in 1816, St. John's — the quaint Episcopal church on the
northern side — the first building on the square. Madison, certainly, was greatly
interested in it, and it became a sort of court church, for all the Presidents attended
worship there, as a matter of course, down to Lincoln's time, and President Arthur
since. Its interior is very interesting.
Lafayette Square is now, perhaps, the pleasantest place to sit on a summer morn
ing or evening among all the outdoor loitering places in this pleasant city. The
trees have grown large, the shrubbery is handsome — particularly that pyramid ot
evergreens on the south side — and great care is taken with the flowerbeds; and
finally, you may see all the world pass by, for this park is surrounded more or less
remotely by the homes of the most distinguished persons in Washington.
Two noteworthy statues belong to this park. One is the familiar equestrian statue
of GeneralandPresident Andrew Jackson, which is the work of Clark Mills, and prob
ably pleases the populace more than any other statue in Washington, but is ridiculed
by the critics, who likon it to a tin soldier balancing hunself on a rocking-horse,
143

144

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

It was cast at Bla
densburg by Mills
himself

JacksonStatue.

who was
given

cannon
captured in Jackson's
campaigns for nia!e-
rial, set up a furnace,
and made the first suc
cessful large bronze
lasting in America.
Another interesting
fact about this statue
is that the center of
gravity is so disposed,
by throwing the
weight into the hind
¦quarters, that the
horse stands poised
upon ils hind legs
without any support
or the aid of any
rivets fastening it to
the pedestal. This
statue was erected in
1853, and unveiled on
the thirty-eighth an
niversary of the bat
tle of New Orleans.
Its cost was $50,000,
part of which was
paid by the Jackson
Monument Associa
tion. THE LAFAYETTE N\SMOR\AL IN LAFAYETTE SQUARE
The Memorial to Lafayette, in the southeast corner of the park, is a very different
affair, and more in the nature of a monument erected by Congress to the services of
the noble Fjenchmeii who lent us their assistance in the Revolutionary
Lafayette War. Upon a lofty and handsome pedestal stands a heroic bronze
Memorial. figure of the Marquis de Lafayette, in the uniform of a Continental
general ; while nearer the base, at the sides, are statues of Rochambeau
and Duportail, of the French army, and D'Estaing and De Grasse of the navy. In
front is " America " holding up a sword to Lafayette. This work is exceedingly
vigorous and is after models by two eminent French sculptors, Falguiere and Mercie.
Total cost, 150,000.
Site of Starting at Pennsylvania Avenue and walking north on Madison Place
Lafayette (Fifteen-and-one-half Street), the new Lafayette Square Opera House
Square is immediately encountered, standing upon a famous site. The tall.
Opera House, brick house which it displaced was originally built by Commodore
Rogers, but soon became the 61ite boarding-house of Washington, and
numbered among its guests John Adams ; John C. Calhoun, the fiery South Carolin-

oa.rtiiji±e, isyuAHliis, AND RESIDENCES.

145

ian, while Monroe's Secretary of War and Jackson's Vice-President; and Henry Clay,
when he was Adams' Secretary of State. Then it became the property of the
Washington Club, and there assembled the rich and influential young men of the
capital ; Sickles and Key were both members, and the tragedy which associates their
names took place in front of its door ; later it became the residence of Secretary
Seward, and there the deadly assault was made upon him by the assassin, Payne,
at the time of the assassination of Lincoln in 1865. Its next distinguished occu
pant was James G. Blaine, Secretary of State in the Harrison administration, and
there he died.
The fine yellow Colonial house next beyond, now occupied by Senator Hanna of
Ohio, was formerly owned and occupied by Ogle Tayloe, son of John Tayloe, of the
Octagon House and Mount Airy, Virginia, who was in the early diplo
matic service, and one of the most accomplished Americans of his day. Tayloe
All of his rare and costly pictures, ornaments, and curios, including HoUse.
much that had belonged to Commodore Decatur, passed into possession
of the Corcoran Art Gallery. A later occupant was Admiral Paulding, a son of John
Paulding, one of the captors of Andre, who suppressed Walker's filibusters in Nica
ragua. Lily Hammersley, now dowager Duchess of Marlborough, was born there,
and some of the most brilliant entertainments ever given in Washington have been
under its roof. One of its latest occupants was Vice-President Hobart. In the next
two houses have lived Secretary Windom, Senator Fenton, and Robert G. Ingersoll.
The gray, mastic-stuccoed house on the corner of H Street, now the
Cosmos Clubhouse, has also known many celebrated characters. It Madison
was built about 1825, by Richard Cutts, the brother-in-law of the HoUSe.
brilliant and versatile " Dolly " Madison, the wife of President Madi
son. It came into Mr. Madison's possession just before his death, some twenty years
later, and thither his wife, no longer
young, but still beautiful and witty, held
court during her declining years. After
Mrs. Madison's death, this house was
occupied by such tenants as Attorney-
General Crittenden ; Senator William
C. Preston, afterward a Confederate
Brigadier ; and Commodore Wilkes,
commander of the celebrated exploring
expedition, who, in 1861, was required
to take his quondam near neighbor,
Slidell, from the British steamer Trent.
He gave it up when the Civil War broke
out, and was followed by Gen. George
B. McClellan, who established here the
headquarters of the Army of the Poto
mac. " A sight of frequent occurrence
in those days," remarks Mrs. Lockwood,
"was the General with his chief of staff.
General Marcy, his aids, Count de Char-
tres and Comte de Paris, with Prince de
Joinville at their side, in full military
costume, mounted, ready to gallop off
over the Potomac hills." Now its halls, .-..^ ..,r,orT>A, lA^i/criM
- , , , ^ , , X jj STATUE OF PRESIDENT ANDREW JACKSON.
remodeled and extended, are trodden By ciaric Mills. *

lO

146 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
by the feet of men the most famous in the country as the investigators and devel
opers of scientific truth.
Diagonally opposite the Cosmos "Club, on H Street, is the square brick Sumner
House, now a part of the Arlington. Where the main body of the Arlington Hotel
now stands, there were three stately residences. One was occupied
Sumner by William L. Marcy, Secretary of War under President Polk, and Sec-
House. retary of State under President Pierce ; and when he retired, he was
succeeded in this and the adjoining house by the Secretary of State,
under Buchanan, Lewis Cass, who, like Marcy, had previously held the war portfolio.
In the third mansion dwelt Reverdy Johnson, minister to England ; and there
Presidents Buchanan and Harrison were entertained prior to their inauguration;
and there Patti, Henry Irving, President Diaz of Mexico, King Kalakaua, Dom
Pedro, and Boulanger found seclusion.
The great double mansion adjoining the Sumner and Pomeroy residence (united as
the H-street front of the hotel) was built by Matthew St. Clair Clarke, long clerk of the
House of Representatives, and afterward became the British Legation. Here lived Sir
Bulwer Lytton, and his not less famous son and secretary, "Owen Meredith," now Lord
Lytton,who is supposed to have written here his most celebrated poem,"Luoile.'' In later
years the house was occupied by Lord Ashburton, who, with Daniel Webster, drafted
the "Ashburton treaty," which defined our Canadian boundary. A still later occu
pant was John Nelson, Attorney-General in Tyler's Cabinet; and it is now the home
of Mrs. Margaret Freeman. On the corner of Sixteenth Street is St. John's Episcopal
Church ; and, passing for the present other newer residences, another old landmark
calls for special attention. This is the Decatur House, facing the square
Decatur on Seventeenth Street, at the corner of H, and easily recognized by its
House. pyramidal slate roof. This, which was the flrst private residence on the
square, was constructed at the close of the War of 1812, by Commander
Stephen Decatur, the hero of Tripoli, and one of the most popular men of the time.
He was the author of the maxim — more patriotic than righteous — uttered asatoast:
"My country — may she always be right; but my country, right or wrong!" His
house was adorned with a multitude of trophies, gifts from foreign rulers, and rare
knickknacks picked up in all parts of the world ; and here he was brought to die after
his duel with Commodore Barron in Bladensburg, in 1820. Afterward it was occupied
by the Russian minister, and then by Henry Clay, when he was Secretary of State
under John Quincy Adams. When Martin Van Buren succeeded him, he took this
house and cut the window in the south wall, in order that he might see the signals
displayed from the White House by " Old Hickory," whom he worshiped. He in
turn gave up the house to his successor, Edward Livingston, a brother of Chancellor
Robert Livingston of New York, whose wife was that Madame Moreau whose wed
ding in New Orleans was so romantic, and whose daughter Cora was the reigning belle
of Jackson's administration, as this house was its social center. Two or three foreign
ministers and several eminent citizens filled it in succession, and gave brilliant parties
at which Presidents were guests, the most recent of whom was Gen. E. F. Beale,
under whose grandfather Decatur had served as midshipman. General Beale died in
1894, and his widow now dwells in this storied old mansion.
A few rods south, next the alley, is another house famous in the past. It is one of
the navy traditions that it was built by Doctor Ewell of that service,
Ewell and occupied by three Secretaries of the Navy, one of whom was the
House. talented Levi Woodbury; then it was the home of Senator Rives of Vir
ginia, grandfather of the novehst, Amelie Rives (Chandler), and after
ward of Gen. Daniel Sickles, -R-those tragedy is indelibly associated with this beautiful

STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.

147

locality. Vice-President Colfax was a
still later tenant, and then the house
passed into possession of the late Wash
ington McLean, editor of the Cincinnati
Enquirer, whose daughter, wife of Ad
miral Ludlow, now resides there.
In this same row, No. 22, the former
residence of William M. Marcy, Secre
tary of War, and afterward Secretary of
State (1853-57), is now the home of Mrs.
R. H. Townsend, daughter of the late
William L. Scott of Erie, Pa. Gen. J.
G. Parke, who commanded the Fifth
Army Corps, and was Chief-of-staff to
Burnside, resides in No. 16 ; and No. 6 is
the residence of Mrs. Martha Reed, sister
of the late Admiral Dahlgren. Lovers
of trees will take notice of
the row of Chinese gingko Ging:kO
trees, which shade the Trees.
sidewalk opposite this
row of houses, on the western margin
of the square.
Fourteenth Street will make a good
starting-point for a ramble in search of
the historic, picturesque, and personal
features of Washington's streets and squares. It is the great north-and-south line of
travel, extending far out into the high northern suburb of Mount
Pleasant. Franklin Square, between Fourteenth and Thirteenth, and Franklin
I and K streets, comprises about four acres, densely shaded, and is a Square.
favorite place of resort in summer evenings. In its center is the spring
of excellent water from which the White House is supplied, and where there is
a public drinking fountain. The Franklin schoolhouse overlooks the square on
the east, and the Hamilton and Cochran hotels are just above it on Fourteenth
Street. The church on the next corner (L Street) is All Souls (Unitarian), diagonally
opposite which is the Portland. This brings you to Thomas Circle, in the center
of which is J. Q. A. Ward's bronze statue of Gen. George H. Thomas, the "Rock
of Chickamauga " and hero of Nashville, which was erected, with great ceremony,
in 1879, by the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, which paid $40,000 for
the design and the casting. The pedestal, which bears the bronze in
signia of the Army of the Cumberland, and its ornamental lamps were Thomas.
furnished by Congress, at an expense of $25,000. The statue is itself
nineteen feet in height, and is finely modeled ; but many admirers of this sturdy,
unassuming commander regret that in his representation there is not more man and
less horse. '
Northwest of Thomas Circle, in front of Lutheran Memorial Church, stands one of
the most artistic statues in the city, erected by the Lutheran Church
of America to Martin Luther. It was cast in Germany from the same LUther.
molds as Rietschel's centerpiece of the celebrated memorial at Wurms,
and expresses the indomitable attitude of the great reformer on all questions of con-
Bcience. This statue is eleven feet in height and cost $10,000.

EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF
MAJ.-GEN. GEORGE H. THOMAS.
Thomas Circle. J. Q. A. Ward,

148 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Fourteenth Street above this point has nothing of special interest, but is a hand
some and busy highway ; and its extension on the elevated ground of Meridian Hill,
north of the city boundary, is rapidly being settled upon by important people. The
gray stone castle, surrounded by large grounds, at the foot of the hill on the right, is
called "Belmont," and belongs to A. L. Barber, owner of the Trinidad asphalt mines.
Mrs. General Logan lives at Calumet Place, two blocks east, on the street north of
" Belmont," where she has a cabinet of relics of her famous husband which is fre
quently visited by veterans of the war. Mr. Justice Harlan of the Supreme Court
resides on the opposite side of the street, two blocks north, at Euclid Place.
Following H Street from Fourteenth westward. No. 1404, now known as the Els-
mere Hotel, was for many years the residence of the late Zachariah Chandler. The
Shoreham Hotel, the Colonial Hotel, and the Columbian University occupy the other
corners, the new Law School of the latter conspicuous on H Street.
The Columbian University is one of the oldest and best-equipped schools of higher
learning at the capital. It has a preparatory school and departments of undergrad
uate and postgraduate academic studies; special courses in science
Columbian (Corcoran Scientific School), of medicine and dentistry, and of law. Its
University. endowments now amount to about $1,000,000, and its faculty and list of
lecturers include a large number of men in public life, from certain
justices of the Supreme Court down. This is particularly true of the Corcoran Scien
tific School, where the lecturers are all men identified with special investigations at
the Smithsonian, Geological Survey, or in some of the technical branches of the Army
or Navy. This university, which was aided at the beginning by the Government,
has always had access to and made great use of the libraries and museums which
_ abound here and are of so great educational value.
Continuing our notes westward along H Street : Gen. Chauncey McKeever, U. S. A.,
lives at No. 1508, and on the left-hand corner, at Madison Place, is the Cosmos Club.
The Cosmos Club is a social club of men interested in science, of whom Washing
ton now contains a greater number, and, on the average, a higher grade, than any
other city. This is due to the employment and encouragement given
Cosmos Club, by the Smithsonian Institution, Agricultural Department, Geological
and Coast Surveys, Fish Commission, Naval Observatory, technical
departments of the Treasury, War, and Navy Departments, and two or three univer
sities. This club may therefore be considered the intellectual center of the non-
political life of the capital, and at any one of its delightful Monday evenings, half
a hundred men of high attainments and wide reputation may be seen, and the
conversation heard is, in its way, as interesting and inspiring as anything to be
listened to in the land. The historic old house has been somewhat modified, chiefly
by the addition of a large hall, which may be shut off from the remaining rooms
and used as a meeting-room ; and there the Philosophical, Biological, Geographic, and
kindred societies hold their meetings on stated evenings.
The Arlington Hotel, including the former residences of Senators Sumner and
Pomeroy, is diagonally opposite the Cosmos; and next beyond is the "Bulwer
House," and then St. John's Episcopal Church. All these face Lafayette Square and
have been elsewhere described. On the farther corner of Sixteenth Street, opposite
St. John's, is the beautiful home of Col. John Hay, President McKinley's Secretary
of State, the author of "Little Breeches," and, with Mr. Nicolay, of the principal
biography of Lincoln. The yellow house, No. 1607, next beyond, was built and for
many years occupied by Com. Richard Stockton, who added to a glorious naval record
in the Mediterranean and West Indies the establishment of American rule in Cali
fornia in 1845. Later it was tenanted by Slidell, who, with Mason, was sent by the

STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.

149

Confederate government to England as a commissioner, but was captured on the Trent
by his quondam neighbor. Commodore Wilkes, who then lived in the
present hpme of the Cosmos Club ; it was the residence of Mr. Lamont Stockton
when Secretary of War. The adjoining house on the corner of Seven- House.
teenth Street — which was for many years the residence of the late
W. W. Corcoran, the philanthropic banker, to whom the city owes the Corcoran
'Gallery, the Louise Home, and other enterprises and benefactions — is another of
the famous homes of old AVash ington, and has been the residence of several men of
note, including Daniel Webster. It was occupied by Senator Calvin S. Brice during
the later years of his life, and is now the home of Senator Depew of New York.
Crossing Connecticut Avenue, the corner house is that of the late Admiral Shu-
brick, opposite which (on Seventeenth), facing the square, is the ancient Decatur
House. Next beyond, No. 1621 H Street, is the residence of Judge J. C. Bancroft
Davis, the diplomat, aoiw«iapw9te»-of ¦tb»^Supreme.AsBMrf;. In the old-fashioned square
house adjoining it, to the west, George Bancroft spent the last twenty
years of his life,and completed his History of the United States. Bancroft
The Rich- HoUSe.
mond, on
the corner of Seventeenth
Street, is a popular family
hotel. The Albany, on the
other side, is an apartment
house for gentlemen ; and
oiMli^outhwest corner is
the Metropolitan Club, the
largest, , wealthiest, and
most fashionable club in
Washington, one rule of
which is that members of
the foreign diplomatic ser
vice, resident in Washing
ton, are ex officio members
of the club, and need only pay stipulated dues in order to take advantage of its privi
leges. This block on H Street between Seventeenth and Eighteenth streets is familiarly
known as the Midway Plaisanoe. Adjoining the Metropolitan Club are
club chambers for gentlemen, and the large yellow house, next west- ClUbs.
ward, was the home of Admiral Porter, of the United States Navy. It
is now the French Embassy. The Milton and Everett are family apartment houses;
and No. 1739 was the residence of the late William A. Richardson, formerly Secretary
of the Treasury, and afterward Chief Justice of the Court of Claims.
In this neighborhood dwell many old Washington families and some modern
notabilities. The Everett House, on the southeast corner of Eighteenth and G, is
historic. It was built and occupied by Edward Everett of Massachu
setts, when Secretary of State under Fillmore. Afterward it was the Everett
home of Jefferson Davis, when Secretary of War, after his marriage House.
with his second wife. He continued there during his term as Secretary
of State, but not after he returned to the Senate. His successor in the house was
another traitor in high place, Jacob Thompson, Buchanan's Secretary of the Interior,
who became a member of the Confederate Cabinet in 1861. Then followed Capt.
Henry A. Wise, a well-known officer of the navy, after whom the medical department
of the navy used the house for many years.

RESIDENCE OF SENATOR CHAUNCEY M. DEPEW.
Corner Sixteentti and I Streets, N. W.

150

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The Wirt House is a few rods to the
east of the Edward Everett house, on
G, between Seventeenth and Eighteenth,
on the south side. It is so called because
that eminent jurist lived
Wirt House, here twelve years, during
the administrations o f
Monroe and J. Q. Adams. Mrs. Lock-
wood tells us that it is not known who
built the house, but that it was occupied
at the beginning of the century by Wash
ington's private secretary. Col. Tobias
Lear, a Revolutionary officer, who was
the commisioner that concluded the
peace with Tripoli. Wirt was United
States Attorney-General from 1817 to
1829. His gardens were large and beauti
ful, for his wife was exceedingly fond of
flowers and was the author of "Flora's
Dictionary." The most brilliant enter
tainments of that day were given here,
until Jackson's time, when it was sold
and occupied later by a succession of the Mexican embassy.- ui? i street, n.w.
Cabinet officers and liigh functionaries, one of whom gave a dinner to the Prince
of Wales under its roof. During or after the war it became the office of the Army
Signal Corps ; anc^ there the present weather service was developed. The present
chief signal officer and arctic explorer. Gen. A. W. Greely, resides near, at No.
1914 G Street.
Going westward on I Street from Fourteenth Street, the flrst house on the right is
owned and occupied by John W. Foster, the diplomat, who was Secretary of State
under Harrison and, later, advisory counsel to China in her settlement
I Street. with Japan. The large brick house adjoining is the Mexican Legation.
Chief Justice Waite lived in the house beyond the alley, now occupied
by the widow of ex-Governor Swann. The brownstone mansion at No. 1419 is the
residence of John W. Thompson, president of the National Metropolitan Bank.
Senator Chandler of New Hampshire lives in No. 1421, once the residence of Caleb
Gushing. The southeast corner of Fifteenth and I streets is the Chamberlin Hotel,
which occupies three houses that formerly belonged to Fernando AVood, ex-Governor
Swann of Maryland (who placed in one of them two Thorwaldsen mantels from the
Van Ness mansion), and James G. Blaine, who lived there when Speaker of the
House of Representatives. Opposite Chamberlin's, on the southwest corner (No. 1500
I Street), Hamilton Fish lived when he was Secretary of State, and it is now the resi
dence of John McLean, of the Cincinnati Enquirer. These houses face upon
McPherson Square, one of the most finished of the city's smaller parks.
The noble equestrian statue that graces this square was erected by the Army of
the Tennessee to its commander, James B. McPherson, who was killed at Atlanta;
and it was his successor. Gen. John A. Logan, who made the
McPherson dedicatory oration, when, amid a great military display, this statue
Statue. was unveiled in 1876. The sculptor was Louis T. Robisso, and
the statue was composed of cannon captured in Georgia. The
cost was about $50,000.

STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.

151

Many fine residences and hotels face this square, and Vermont Avenue passes
through it toward the northeast.
Continuing westward. No. 1535 I Street is the residence of James G. Berret, who
was mayor of Washington during the Civil War. Mi,'.-.Jueti«© Gsay^-li-ves- in No. 1601 ;
No. 1600 is the home of Mrs. Tuckerman, the widow of a New York
banker; No. 1617 was the residence of the late George W. Riggs, and Storied
is now occupied by his daughters ; 1710 is the Women's Club; 1707 is Houses.
the residence of Mrs. Stanley Matthews ; Paymaster-General Watmough
of the navy lives in No. 1711, and John A. Kasson in No. 1726. No. 1731 is a famous
house, having been occupied by Mr. Frelinghuysen when he was Secretary of State,
William C. Whitney, Cleveland's first Secretary of the Navy, and John Wanamaker,
when he was Postmaster-General ; it is now owned and occupied by S. S. Howland, a
son-in-law of the late August Belmont. In No. 1739, at the corner of Eighteenth
Street, resides Harriet Lane Johnson, who presided at the White House during the
Buchanan administration. Gen. T. H. Rucker, U.S.A., a prominent officer in the
Civil War, and father of the widow of General Sheridan, hves at No. 2005 ; Admiral
Selfridge dwells at No. 2013; Gen. Robert Macfeely, U.S.A., at No. 2015; and Prof.
Cleveland Abb(5, the meteorologist, at No. 2018.
Following K Street westward from Twelfth Street, the first house on the southwest
corner is the parsonage of the New York Avenue Presbyterian Church, occupied by
the Rev. Mr. Radcliffe. In No. 1205 resides A. S. Soloman, the almoner of Baron
Hirsch, the Jewish philanthropist. Number 1301 was once the residence of Roscoe
Oonkhng; No. 1311 was built by Ben Holiday, who operated the pony express across

the CHINESE LEGATION  Corner Eighteenth and Q Streets, N. W.

152

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

RESIDENCE OF SENATOR J B FORAKER
1500 Sixteenth Street, N W

the continent for many years before the
construction of the Union Pacific Rail
way ; No. 1313 was formerly the home
of Robert G. Ingersoll; ex-Secretary
J. hn Sherman lives at No. 1321; and
1325 was, during the war, the residence
of Secretary Edwin M. Stanton ; John
G. Carlisle lived at No. 1426; Admiral
Worden, the commander of the Monitor
during her fight with the Merrimac,
lived at No. 1428, and Senator Gorman
at No. 1432. The large house at the
corner of Vermont Avenue and K Street
is leased by Jefferson Levy, the Plebrew
member of Congress from New York,
and the brownst'me front adjoining is
the temporary headquarters of the At
torney-General. Representative Hitt of
Illinois lives at No. 1507 ; Mrs. B. H.
Warder at No. 1515 ; and the new yellow
house near the corner of Sixteenth Street is the home of the widow of George
W. Childs of Philadelphia. The house at the southeast corner of
On K Street. K and Sixteenth streets, another of Richardson's productions, is
occupied by the widow of Nicholas Anderson of Cincinnati. Mr.
Hitchcock, Secretary of tbe Interior, lived in No. 1601 ; Senator Wetmore of Rhode
Island in No. 1609; the Rev. Dr. McKim, rector of Epiphany Church, at No. 1621 ;
Senator Matthew Quay in No. 1620; Jerome B jnaparte, the great-grandnephew of
Napoleon, in No. 1627 ; ex-Senator Murphy of New York in No. 1701, and Titian J.
Cofl'ey, an ex-Secretary of the Navy, lived in No. 1713. " Little Lord Fauntleroy "
was written in the house at No. 1730, which was then the residence of Dr. Swan
M. and Mrs. Frances Hodgson-Burnett — the former a distinguished oculist,
and the latter the well-known novelist.
Sixteenth Street, which
starts from Lafayette
Square, opposite the White
House, is
Executive sometimes
Avenue. known as
Executive
Avenue. St. John's Church
is on the right, at the cor
ner of H Street, and the
residence of Secretary John
Hay on the left. At the
northwest corner of I
Street Mr. Justice Gray
of the Supreme Court re
sides, and back of him is
The Gordon, a family
hotel ; No. 9.10 is the home residence of senator Eugene hale,
ofMaj. George M.Wheeler, looi sixteenth Street, n. w.

STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.

153

U. S. A., who conducted the "surveys west of the 100th meridian" with which
hia name is identified. Senator Hale of Maine lives at No. 1001 ; Surgeon-General
Sternberg of the army, at No. 1019; Senator Proctor of Vermont at the northeast
corner of L Street, and E. F. Andrews, the artist, at No. 1232. Passing Scott Circle,
ex -Representative Huff of Pennsylvania resides at No. 1323 ; the Rev. Alexander
Mackay-Smith, rector of St. John's Church, at No. 1325 ; Senator Foraker of Ohio,
at 1500; W. G. Gurley, a Washington banker, at No. 1401 ; Mr. Justice Brown of
the Supreme Court, at No. 1720 ; Gen. Rufus Saxton, U. S. A., at No. 1821, and other
equally famous people on both sides. The conspicuous brownstone "castle" on
high ground at the end of Sixteenth Street, on the left, is the home of ex-Senator
Henderson, of Missouri.
Massachusetts Avenue is one of the flnest streets in the city, and a great promenade.
It stretches parallel with Pennsylvania Avenue from Hospital Square, on the Anacostia
River, northwestward through Lincoln Square, Stanton Square, Mount
Vernon Square — a pretty little park where New York Avenue crosses MassachU-
Eighth and K streets, three blocks north of the Patent Office — Thomas setts AvenUC.
Circle, Scott Circle, Dupoiit Circle, and Decatur Circle, where it bends
shghtly and is extended through the elegant suburb on the banks of Rook Creek, and
so out to the hilly region north of Georgetown. An excellent view of this stately
boulevard can be obtained at its junction with Twelfth Street, which is one of the
highest points in Washington. Ascension Episcopal Church flUs the northwest
corner at this crossing. Robert Hinkley, the artist, lives in No. 1310 ; Mr. Justice
Morris of the District Supreme Court, in No. 1314 ; J. Stanley-Brown, private secre
tary of the late President Garfield, and " Molly " Garfield, his wife, in No. 1318. Mr.
E. Francis Riggs resides at No, 1311, and the widow of Admiral Dahlgren in No. 1325 ;
No. 1330 is the Legation of Chile, and the large square house at the junction of M
Street and Vermont Avenue, facing
Thomas Circle, is the home of ex-Justice
Wiley, ofthe District Supreme Court. Mr.
Justice Brewer lives at No. 1412, Senator
CuUom at No. 1413, S. H. Kauffman, pro
prietor of the Evening Star, at No. 1421.
The large red-brick house, No. 1435, is
the German Embassy. The brownstone
building surrounded by large grounds,
on the south side of Massachusetts Avenue
between Fifteenth and Sixteenth streets,
is the Louise Home. It wde /
founded by the late W. W. LOUise Home.
Corcoran, and nearly all its
inmates are widows of ex-Confederate
officers belonging to the aristocracy of the
South, who lost their fortunes during the
war. Nearly opposite it was the home of
the late Prof. Spencer F. Baird, long
United States Fish Commissioner and Sec
retary of the Smithsonian Institution.
The familiar name for Scott Circle, the
locality around the statue of General Scott,
at the junction of Massachusetts and
statue of gen. winfield s. SCOTT. Rhode Island avenues. Sixteenth and N

154

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

Hutchins. FineResidences.

streets, is "Calamity Circle," because every person who built a house there died
shortly afterward, or met with misfortune.
This equestrian statue of Gen. Winfield Scott, the victor in the Mexican War, was
erected in 1874. "It was modeled by H. K. Brown, and cast in Philadelphia from
cannon captured in Mexico. Its total height is fifteen feet, and its cost
Scott Statue, was $20,000. The pedestal is of granite from Cape Ann quarries, and
is composed of five huge blocks, said to be the largest ever quarried in
the United States. The cost of the pedestal was about $25,000. General Scott is rep
resented in the uniform of his rank as Lieutenant-General."
The large house at the junction of N Street and Massachusetts Avenue is the resi
dence of Stbpreme J,u§lJ££.Shij:aiS; The mansion to the northward, between N Street
and Rhode Island Avenue, was erected by Prof. Alex. Graham Bell, inventor of the
telephone, and after several years was sold to Levi P. Morton, who occupied it while
he was Vice-President. The square brick house at the northeast corner of Sixteenth
Street was built by Senator Cameron of Pennsylvania, and sold to Mr. D. P. Morgan,
a New York banker, whose widow and family still reside there. On the opposite
side of Sixteenth Street the late William Windom lived while he was a Senator
from Minnesota and Secretary of the Treasury ; it is now owned and occupied by
Charles A. Munn, formerly of Chicago. The house adjoining belongs to Stilson
E. Kurtz Johnson, a banker, built and died in the house at the western
corner of N Street. Continuing westward on Massachusetts Avenue,
Mr. Spofford, of the Library of Congress, lives at No. 1621 ; No. 1627 is
the residence of the widow of the late Senator Vance of North Caro
lina. The Attorney-General at No. 1707 ; the Secretary of the Treasury
at No. 1715 ; Beriah Wilkins, of the Washington Post, in No. 1709 ; Senator Lodge of
Massachusetts, in No. 1765. The castellated house opposite belongs to the widow of
the late Belden Noble, and is occupied by the Spanish Legation. Gen. Nelson A.
Miles lives near by at No. 1736 N Street; the Postmaster-General lives at No. 1774;
Senator Fairbanks of Indiana lives at No. 1800; Mrs. Wadsworth of Geneseo, New
York, owns the large house on the tri
angle opposite. The large mansion of fire
brick on P Street, back of it, is occupied
by William J. Boardman of Cleveland,
Ohio. Passing beyond Dupont Circle, No.
1915, adjoining the "Stewart Castle," is
the residence of Paymaster Michler, of
the navy, and on the corner opposite lived
for many years the late Mrs. Craig Wads-
worth, who was a leader of Washington
society; No. 2013 is the residence of
Charles M. Ffoulke, and the hall which
adjoins it on the east was built to exhibit
his collection of tapestries, which is one
of the finest in the world. On the oppo
site side ofthe street, in the
Blaine rear of the Blaine house.
House. Miss Grace Denio Litch
field, the novelist, resides.
Number 2100 is the residence of B. H.
Warner, a Washington banker, and the ,,3,,,,,, „, ^,3 ^ ^
large mansion at No. 2122 was erected by 21,1 Massachusetts Avenue, n. w.

AND RESIDENCES.

155

the late Mrs. Patton, who inherited a
fortune gained by her husband in the
mines of Nevada ; it is now occupied by
her four daughters. No. 2111, on the
opposite side of the street, was erected
by ex-Senator Edmunds of Vermont,
and was sold by him in 1895 to the
widow of General Grant, who now
resides there with her daughter, Mrs.
Nellie Sartoris. The large stone chateau,
in French style, is the residence of Mrs.
Richard Townsend.
Connecticut Avenue, from H Street
to the boundary, is the Sunday afternoon
promenade. Starting northward upon
our survey at Lafayette Square, where
the gardens ofthe old Webster house fill
the corner at the right. No. 814 was the
residence, after the Civil War, of Admiral
Wilkes, and is still occupied by his
family. Just beyond is Farragut Square,
a small, prettily planted park, in the
center of which is a statue to the hero
of Mobile Bay and the Mississippi forts.
m,.-' . / „ -r, , , BRONZE statue ADMIRAL DAVID G. farragut.
This statue of larrasut represents ^ * c , * . ,~ *¦ * a j
° ^ Farragut Square, Intersection Connecticut Avenue and
him as standing upon the deck of his > street, N, W, By Mrs, Vinnie Reann Hoxie,
flagship Hartford, from whose propeller the metal of which the statue is com
posed was taken, and was cast in 1880, after models by Mrs. Lieu
tenant Hoxie, then Miss Vinnie Ream. It cost $25,000, and was Farragut
dedicated in April, 1881, many of Farragut's old shipmates taking Statue.
part in the ceremonies.
The large gray house on the next corner (numbered 1705 K Street) was originally
the residence of Alexander R. Shepherd, the rebuilder of Washington. It was for
many years the Russian Legation, and is now owned and occupied by Mrs. McLean.
The houses back of it are usually occupied by attaches of the different legations. The
large brick building at the corner of L Street, on the right, is a Catholic school for
girls ; and the yellow house on the opposite corner of De Sales Street is the Grafton
Hotel. Col. John M. Wilson, Superintendent of Public Buildings and Grounds,
resides at No. 1141 ; Senator Wolcott of Colorado, at No. 1221, and Prof. Thomas
Wilson, anthropologist of the Smithsonian Institution, at No. 1218. The handsome
stone church, with the large square tower, is the Presbyterian Church
of the Covenant On the opposite corner, to the north, is the British British
Embassy. This is one of the few legations in Washington that are Embassy.
owned, and not rented, by their governments, the others being those of
Austria, Brazil, Germany, Japan, and Korea. It occupies the site, curiously enough,
of the first and only cricket club at the capital, which ceased to play many years
ago. On the point between Connecticut Avenue- and Eighteenth Street stands the
residence of Commander Wilham H. Emory, U. S. N., now occupied by ex-
Representative Reyburn of Philadelphia. The Austrian Government occupies No.
1307 as the residence for its Legation. Inspector-General Breckenridge, U. S. A.,
dwells at No. 1314; Admiral Carter at No. 1316; the family of the late Gar-

156

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO Vl'ASHINGTON.

y^WA ^ '^^

THE BRITISH LEGATION,— Northwiest Corner Connecticut Avenue and N Street, N, W.
diner G. Hubbard at No. 1328, and Prof. A. Graham Bell at No. 1321. These
houses are upon Dupont Circle.
This pretty circular park occupies the interior of the space made by the intersec
tion here of Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire avenues, and P and
Nineteenth streets. In its center stands the bronze statue of Admiral
Dupont Samuel F. Dupont, a popular officer of the navy during the Civil War,
Circle. which was designed by Launt Thompson, cost $10,000, and was unveiled
in 1884. Passing beyond Dupont Circle, the large red-brick house to
the westward, on the point between P Street and Massachusetts Avenue, was erected
by the late James G. Blaine when he was Secretary of State in Garfield's Cabinet ; it
still belongs to his estate, but is occupied by Mrs. Westinghouse of Pittsburg. The
gray house. No. 8, is known as Castle Stewart. It was for many years the Chinese
Legation, and there was given the famous ball, in 1886, when Washington was scan
dalized by scenes of social riot. It is now the residence of its owner. Senator Stewart
of Nevada. The big cream-colored house, with the lofty pillared portico, at No. 1400
New Hampshire Avenue, opposite, is the home of the wealthy merchant, L. Z. Leiter,
formerly of Chicago, whose daughter married Lord Curzon, the viceroy of India. No.
1611 Connecticut Avenue is the home of Mrs. Colton, whose husband was formerly
treasurer of the Central Pacific Railroad. Francis B. Colton lives in
Meridian the English basement house, a little farther north. The large brownstone
Hill. residence at the point between Connecticut Avenue and Twentieth
Street is the winter home of Mr. Perkins, of Boston ; the brick house,
No. 1705, is the home of Lyman Tiffany; the Belgian Legation is at 1716, and William

STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES.

157

E. Curtis, the newspaper writer and author of many books of travel, lives at No. 1801,
at the corner of S Street. The little chapel on the hill above is St. Margaret's (Epis
copal). The Chinese Legation is at the corner of Eighteenth and Q streets.
" Connecticut Avenue Extended " is the name applied to this street where, beyond
Bock Creek, it resumes its straight course. It leads directly to Chevy Chase, and bids
fair to become the highway of one of the best of the future suburban districts.
On Rhode Island Avenue. The widow of Chief Justice Waite lived at No. 1616,
just west of Scott Circle; and the widow of General Sheridan at No. 1617, across the
way; No. 1626 is the home of Elihu Root, Secretary of War, and at No. 1610, Mr.
Olney, formerly the Secretary of State resided. No. 1741 is the historic house pre
sented to Admiral Dewey and transferred by him to his wife. The small " circle,"
at Vermont Avenue and P Street, is named Iowa, and is ornamented by a statue of
Gen. John A. Logan, surmounting a bronze pedestal.
New Hampshire Avenue is a long street nearly parallel with Vermont Avenue,
reaching from the Potomac northeast to the boundary at the head of Fifteenth Street,
and then extended through the distant suburb of Brightwood. There
is a pretty triangle where it crosses Virginia Avenue; and where it New
crosses Pennsylvania, K, and Twenty-third streets is a park named Hampshire
Washington Circle. An equestrian bronze statue of Washington, Avenuc.
modeled and cast by Clark Mills, was erected here long ago, at a cost of
$50,000. The artist is said to have intended to represent him as he appeared at the
battle of Princeton.
Some distance above this, the triangle, at the junction of the Avenue N and
Twentieth Street, is covered by the residence of Dr. Guy Fairfax Whiting. Christian
Heurich, who owns the brewery a block below, lives at No. 1307. Paymaster-General
Stewart, United States Navy, resides at No. 1315 ; Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, widow of the
late Senator from California, and famous for her charities, at No. 1400; and the
widow of the late " Sunset " Cox at No. 1408. North of Dupont Circle the Leiter
mansion is conspicuous, and that of W. C. Whittemore, another retired Chicago
merchant, is on the next corner, at No. 1526. The large, white house opposite this is
the home of Lieut. Richardson Clover, United States Navy. The Rev. P. Van Wyck,
a retired chaplain of the navy, lives at No. 1601 ; Representative Dalzell of Pennsyl
vania, at No. 1605 ; and Thomas Nelson Page, the novelist, on the corner of R Street.
Some notable residences, away from the district surveyed above, should be men
tioned. The officers attached to the
Navy Yard, to the Washington Bar
racks and to the cavalry post at Fort
Meyer, dwell at these stations in the
more or less cozy quarters provided by
the Government for them. Senator
Morgan of Alabama lives in a brown
stone house opposite the First Pres
byterian Church, at No. 315 Four-and-
a-half Street.
Mgr. Martinelli, the Apostle Legate
of the Pope of Rome to the United
States, resides at No. 201
I Street. This house was Grant Gift
presented to General HoUSe.
RESIDENCE OF L. Z, LEITER, ESQ, ^^'^^^ ^y the citizens of
Ne«f Hampshir. Avenue and P Street, N.W. Washington at the close of the war.

158

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

and occupied by him until he was inaugurated as President. It was afterward the
residence of Justice Bradley of the Supreme Court. The adjoining house, No.
203, was presented to Gen. W. T. Sherman, who lived there for several years,
and afterward on Fifteenth Street. Mrs. Jean Lander, once a famous actress,
resides at No. 45 B Street, S. E., facing Capitol Park ; and John G. Nicolay, private
secretary to President Lincoln, and his co-biographer with Mr. Hay, is at No. 212, on
the opposite side of the same street.

ADMIRAL DEWEY'S RESIDENCE.
1741 Rhode Island Avenue.

XIII.
EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON".
1. To Mount Vernon.
The pilgrimage to the home and tomb of George Washington at Mount Vernon is
regarded by most Americans as a duty as well as a pleasure, and foreigners look upon
it as a compliment due to the nation. It forms, moreover, a delightful excursion.
Either of two routes may be taken to Mount Vernon — by steamboat on the
Potomac — see page 311 for time table — or by electric cars.
The electric trains of the Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon
Railway leave their station, Pennsylvania Avenue and Thirteen-and- Electric
one-half Street, every hour, week-days, from 10 a, m. to 3 p..m. from May Railway
1st to Nov. 1st, and from 10 A. m. to 2 p. m. from Nov. 1st to May 1st. Route.
These electric trains, which are the fastest and best equipped in the
world, make the round trip in three hours, of which one hour and twenty minutes may
be spent on the grounds. The fare is 50 cents for the round trip, or 60 cents including
side trip to Arlington. All tickets allow stop-over privilege in Alexandria. The many
points of interest as passed en route and described below are pointed out and
cleverly explained by competent guides, who accompany all Mount Vernon trains.
The route lies down Fourteenth Street, passing the Agricultural Department,
Washington Monument, and Bureau of Engraving and Printing,
crossing the Potomac by way of Long Bridge into Virginia. This Long Bridge.
bridge, which will be superseded in a few years by a modern steel struc
ture, became famous during the Civil War as a military route into the seceding States.
It comma,nds a fine view of the Potomac, with the stately Arlington Mansion on the
hills to the right. At its further end there still stands, plainly seen at the left of the
track as soon as the first high ground is reached. Fort Runyon, a strong earthwork
erected in 1861 to guard the head of the bridge from raiders. But a short distance far
ther is Arlington Junction, where connection is made for Arlington. A little beyond it
the train passes St. Asaph and then skirts the base of Braddock Heights — the low hills
upon which Braddock's army was encamped, in 1755, before undertaking that disastrous
march against the French and Indians at Fort Duquesne (now Pittsburg), where
Braddock was killed and his army saved from annihilation only by the genius of his
young Colonial Aid, George Washington. The city of Alexandria is then entered
Alexandria began, under the name of Bellhaven, in 1748, and had
a promising early career. " It rapidly became an important port, and Alexandria.
developed an extensive foreign trade. It was well known in the great
English commercial cities. General Washington, Governor Lee, and other prominent
Virginians interested themselves in its development, and at one time it was thought
it would become a greater city than Baltimore. Warehouses crowded with tobacco
and flour and corn lined its docks, and fleets of merchant vessels filled its harbor."
The founding and advancement of Washington and the building of railroads, which
diverted traffic to inland channels, destroyed its importance, and the coming of the
Civil War ruined it socially. Here the Union troops began their " invasion " of Vir
ginia soil, and here fell Ellsworth — the first notable victim of the conflict. The old
red-brick hotel where he pulled down the Confederate flag is now pointed out to
strangers at the corner of the first street beyond the railway station on Washington
Street. It was called the Marshall House. 159

160

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

INTERIOR CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA,
The old town contains many quaint and interesting relics of the past, of which
the most interesting is Christ Church (near the Washington Street
Christ station), in which Washington's family and all the respectable persons
Church. of his neighborhood used to worship. It has been kept as near as may
be as it was in those days; and the old square pew in which "His
Excellency, the General," used to sit, gazing up at the high pulpit during the long
and strong sermons, is still pointed out. Other things of interest for their ass ciations
are the Masonic lodgeroom, where Washington and other prominent men of that day
were wont to meet ; the house in which Braddock had his home and military head
quarters ; the local monument to Confederate soldiers (seen from the train at
Washington Street), and other houses and objects.
Soon after leaving Alexandria by way of King Street (with a station at King and
Royal) the Potomac comes into view, and the train crosses upon a bridge the broad
estuary of Big Hunting Creek, at the head of which was built, during
Below the Civil War, Fort Lyon, one of the principal defenses of Washington.
Alexandria. The red-brick building seen some distance up the stream is the old
Episcopal Theological Seminary, founded in colonial times. More
plainly visible at the left is Jones Point, marked by a lighthouse. This was the
southern corner of the original District of Columbia. Near the lighthouse is buried
a marked corner-stone placed there with much ceremony by Washington and other
founders of the Government ; and it was proposed to erect there a magnificent monu
ment. A mile farther on the position of Fort Foote on the other side of the river is
seen ; and presently the track rises to higher ground where, looking back, the Capitol
is visible a dozen miles away. Here, among peach orchards, begins the Mount
Vernon estate, which in George Washington's time contained about 8,000 acres; and

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

161

just beyond Belmont Station is seen, some distance at the left, the white house in which
dwelt Col. Tobias Lear, Washington's secretairy. The half-ruined barn, somewhat
removed from the house, goes back to the early history of the property. The remainder
of the run is through beautiful fields, with pleasant outlooks all around, frequent views
of the river, and a sight of the fiags flying over Fort Washington and Fort Hunt.
The terminus is at the garden gate of the Mount Vernon grounds, within three
minutes' walk of the mansion.
The river route to Mount Vernon, on historic Potomac, is by the
magnificent iron steamer Charles Macalester, built expressly for this River Route.
service (capacity 1,500 passengers) with all modern conveniences. The
steamer leaves Seventh Street wharf daily (Sunday excepted), 10 a. m. and 2.30 p. m,,
summer schedule (May 30 to November 1); 10 a. m. and 1.45 p. m,, winter schedule
(November 1 to May 30). Fare, round trip, 50 cents. Tickets, sold to cover transporta
tion and admission to the grounds, 75 cents. During the summer season pleasant day
and evening trips via this steamer to historic Marshall Hall, opposite Mount Vernon, etc.
The Potomac River trip is one of great enjoyment on a fine day. As the steiimer
moves out into the stream, it rides in a broad tidal channel dredged for harbor pur
poses by the Government and kept full by a tidal reservoir above. The long artificial
island which separates this harbor from the river itself will hereafter become a park.
On the city shore, immediately below the wharves, appears the pleasant parade of
Washington Barracks, or The Arsenal, as it is still more commonly called — a

11

CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA.

162 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
military post on the peninsula between the Potomac and its eastern branch. Its land
entrance is at the foot of Four-and-one-half Street, and is reached by electric cars
from Pennsylvania Avenue via Seventh Street. A trifling settlement styled Carrolls-
burg, with an earthen breast-high battery, existed on the extremity
Washington of this point, which was called Turkey Buzzard or Greenleaf's Point
Barracks. when the city was laid out ; and in 1803 the peninsula was reserved
for military purposes as far as T Street, S. W. What few buildings were
there in 1814 were destroyed by the British, who lost a large number of men by drop
ping a "port-flre" into a dry well where a great quantity of navy powder had been
hidden, thus producing an impromptu volcano. In 1826 the northern end of the
reservation, as far back as U Street, denoted by the jog in the river wall on the Poto
mac side, was walled off as a site for a district penitentiary. A building was erected
having a yard with a high inclosing wall, ?.nd here, in 1865, were confined the con
spirators in the assassination of Lincoln. Four of them were hung and buried there.
Exactly where this execution and the interments were made is not accurately
known, but it is believed that the gallows was planted near the circular flower bed
now in front of the commandant's door, and that the bodies were buried near its
foot. All were soon afterward removed, the penitentiary was swept away, the limits
of the reservation were advanced to P Street, and, in 1881, the arsenal was abolished.
The verdant parade, with its flag and guns, and avenue of big trees, its former
storehouses, which during the war contained enormous quantities of arms and
ammunition, and are now used as barracks, and its quadrangle of officers' quarters
at the extreme point, make a pretty picture as we float past. As it is the head
quarters of a regiment of artillery it has the band, and during the pleasant half of the
year, guard-mounting at 9 a. m. and dress parade at 5 p. m. are conducted with much
ceremony, while battery drills can be seen almost any morning at 10 or 11 o'clock.
The Anacostia River next opens broadly at the left, and the navy yard and
southern front of the city are exposed to view. On the further bank looms up the
great Government Hospital for the Insane, which cost $1,000,000, and
Hospital is one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world. It is
for Insane, primarily intended for demented men of the army and navy ; and
there Lieutenant Gushing, of torpedo-boat fame, and Captain McGiffin,
the hero of the naval fight of the Yalu, in China-Japan war, ended their blighted
days. The low, level grounds of Giesboro Point, bordering the river below the asylum,
were occupied during the war as cavalry camps and drilling stations. Opposite it is
the broad estuary of Four-Mile Run. Alexandria now comes into view.
(A ferry also runs at hourly intervals between the Seventh Street wharf and
Alexandria. The Macalester also stops at Alexandria both going and coming.)
Just below Alexandria the lighthouse and opening of Hunting Creek, already
described, are passed. This creek gave its name to the Washington plantation before
Lawrence Washington named it "Mount Vernon," in compliment to an admiral with
whom he had served. Near here is a little stopping-place called Gunston Landing,
where some of the river boats stop to take on milk and vegetables for the city
market. It is the ancient landing for the estate of the eminent Mason family, whose
colonial seat, Gunston Hall, is still standing a short distance inland, though no longer
in possession of the Masons. It was a familiar calling-place for Washington, his
nearest neighbor in fact.
On the hilly Maryland side of the Potomac, toward which the boat now heads,
was another commanding earthwork. Fort Foote, once of military importance.
This fort was kept in repair for years after the Civil War, and the United States

JiACURSlUJNS AliUUT WASHINGTON. 163
still owns its site. The next stop is made, about twelve miles below the city, at
Fort Washington, a historic fort on a point of the Maryland shore, within sight of
Mount Vernon and commanding the channel. Tradition says that the early
explorers ofthe Potomac found an Indian "castle" here, and that
Washington advised the building of a fort on this headland, as soon as Fort
the District of Columbia was created. L'Enfant drew its plans as his Washington.
last public work, and a strong fortress was begun, but was blown up by
the Americans in 1812, when they heard that the British were coming. It was
rebuilt in 1898, under the threat of war with Europe, and made the,principal defense
of the capital against sea attack. The principal battery consists of five 8-inch rifles,
mounted on disappearing carriages, behind enormous embankments of earth and con
crete, 200 feet above the river level. These guns command the river for a distance of
twenty miles, and have an extremely accurate range of over six miles. Fort Sheridan
is being constructed, nearly opposite, where will be mounted two huge 12-inch rifles,
having an even longer range and more destructive flre, besides several 8-inch guns.
Arrangements are making for the placing of sub-aquatic mines in the river whenever
needed, controlled from these forts. It is believed that it would be impossible for an
enemy to reach the capital by sailing up the river. The only hope of reduction of the
forts would be from the land side, and here elaborate defenses, to be defended by
mortar batteries, fixed and field artillery, and large bodies of infantry, are now in
process of construction. Extensive barracks are building at Fort Washington,
which is destined soon to become, probably, the most important garrison station
near the capital.
The United States Fish Commission maintains a fish-hatching station near Fort
Washington. Mount Vernon is on the right bank of the Potomac, sixteen miles below Wash
ington. The lands about it were a part of an extensive grant to John Washington,
the flrst of the family who came to America in 1656, and they descended
rather fortuitously, in 1752, to George, then hardly more than a lad. IMount
He married in 1759, and continued to develop and beautify the estate Yernon.
until the breaking out of the Revolution, when the ability he had
shown in the Virginia militia called him to the service of the United Colonies. He
returned to Mount Vernon at the close of the war, but, to his grief, was obliged soon
to quit its beloved acres for the cares of the first Presidency of the Republic. Dur
ing this interval of five years an almost continuous stream of visitors had been enter
tained there, and among them were many foreigners of note as well as representative
Americans ofthe time. Finally, in 1797, the great commander was released from the
cares of government, and enabled to retire, to pass, as he hoped, many quiet and
enjoyable years upon his plantation. Only two years were vouchsafed him, however,
for on December 14, 1799, he died of membranous croup (or barbarous medical treat
ment) following exposure in a storm. He was buried upon his own estate, and the
family declined to accept the subsequent invitation of Congress to transfer the body
to the undercroft of the Capitol.
¦> For sixteen years Washington cultivated his great farm and lived the usual life of
a Virginia planter. He raised large quantities of tobacco, which he shipped to Lon
don direct from his own wharf at Mount Vernon. He had no ambition
for public life after his term of service in the Virginia Legislature had The Estate.
expired, and was content with the pursuit of agriculture and the social
pleasures of a country gentleman. He had some of the best society in Virginia —
"the polite, wealthy and fashionable "— was a profuse and liberal host, was fond
of fox hunting, fishing, fowling, and athletic sports, and was happy in his home and

164

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

domestic relations. His wife was thoroughly domestic in her tastes and habits, and
a careful housekeeper.
Washington's property, estimated as worth $530,000, descended, at the death of
Mrs. Washington, here, in 1802, to Bushrod Washington, then a Justice of the
Supreme Court, who died in 1829, leaving the estate to his nephew, John Augustine
Washington, from whom it passed by legacy, in 1832, to his widow, and from her, in
1855, to her son. He proposed to sell it, when a Southern lady. Miss Ann Pamela
Cunningham, secured the refusal of it, and, after failing to interest Congress in her
proposal that the Government should buy and preserve it as a memorial, succeeded in
arousing the women of the country. An association of these women, named Mount
Vernon Ladies' Association of the Union, with representatives from every State, was
incorporated by Virginia in 1856, and in 1858 it paid $200,000 for the central part of
the property (some 200 acres), covenanting to hold it in perpetuity. The admission
fee of 25 cents goes to the payment of current expenses.
The approach to Mount Vernon, by the river, impresses one with the sightliness
of the situation and the dignity of the mansion, which shines among the trees from
an elevation 150 feet above the landing wharf.
" In the summer, Mount Vernon is a mass of foliage to the river's edge. It has a
• great growth of ancient trees and luxuriant undergrowth. Like all the region in which
it is located, it is thickly wooded, and from the river has an exceedingly picturesque
appearance. The mansion is very nearly concealed by the trees surrounding it.
There is only one place as
you approach it from the
north where it can be seen
at all. Approaching it from
the south nothing of it can
be seen save a small part of
the roof. From the south
the river curves directly to
the estate. Until you get
within a short distance of it
a high, jutting bank hides
it from view. When the
bank is passed the estate
comes boldly in sight and
presents a most beautiful
appearance. It is located
on an elevation — the high
est point on the Virginia side of the Potomac — and from the grounds delightful views
of river and shore can be obtained through openings in the groves of trees."

THE OLD TOMB.

Grounds and Buildings.
The Tomb of Washington is the first object of attention, and stands immediately
at the head of the path from the landing. Its position, small dimensions, and plain
form of brick were dictated by Washington in his will. The back part
Tomb of of it, extending into the bank, and closed by iron doors, entombs the
Washington, bodies of about forty members and relatives of the family. The front
part, closed by plain iron gates, through which anyone may look, con
tains two plain sarcophagi, each excavated from a single block of marble, which were
made and presented by John Struthers of Philadelphia, in 1837. That one in the

166

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

center of the little inclosure holds the mortal remains of the Father of his Country,
within the mahogany coffin in which they were originally placed. At his left is the
body of his " consort," Martha Washington. Both the sarcophagi are sealed and are
intended never to be opened ; nor are the vaults at the rear. Four times a year,
however, the iron gates are opened by the authorities, and it is on these occasions
that the wreaths and other offerings of flowers are deposited.
This was not the first burial-place of Washington. At the time of his death his
body was placed in the older and smaller family tomb a few steps farther north and
nearer the river, which is now overgrown with ivy and shaded by
Old Tomb. immense oaks. Here Mrs. Washington was laid beside him, and there
they remained until 1837, when they were removed to their present
resting-place. Judge Bushrod Washington and several other relatives of the family

THE TOIVIB OF GEORGE WASHINGTON.
are buried near by, beneath monuments that bear their names, and between the
Tomb and the river-bluff used to be buried all the Slaves who died upon the estate —
how many is unknowm ; but the only one marked is that of the old nurse of Mrs.
Jane Washington, one of the latest occupants of the estate, and the last person to be
entombed within the vault.
The Mansion itself stands upon an eminence overlooking broad reaches of the
Potomac, and 125 feet above it. It is built of wood, the framework being of oak, is
96 feet long by 30 feet wide, and has two stories and an attic. The
The eastern or river-facing front is shaded by a portico, as high as the eaves,
Mansion. supported by eight square posts of wood, and paved at the level of the
ground with tiles imported from England in 1786 ; this pavement is 14J
feet wide. The roof of the portico is crowned by an ornamental balustrade half con
cealing the four dormer windows by which that side of the attic is lighted ; and the
ceiling and posts of the portico are neatly paneled.
This river-facing side, though no more conspicuous, is less interesting architec
turally, than the western or landward front of the house, which was the one most

JBiAOO'SSlOSTB ABOUT WASHINGTON. 167
often approached by visitors in the old coach-traveling days. This has no
¦porch, but presents an extended plain front, with an ornamental
central and two side doors, symmetrically disposed, while the Western
roof is pleasingly broken by a low gable and two dormers, and by Front.
the little central cupola and two large chimneys.
From each end of the mansion, on this side, curving colonnades connected with
it the kitchen on the left and the office of the estate on the right ; and a generous
lawn stretched before the house, shaded along the sides and at a distance by numer.
ous great trees which still survive, and containing a sun-dial. This was called the
Bowling Green, and terminated at the gate on the highway by which carriages
entered the home grounds.
The Kitchen was a spacious house nearly all of one end of which was devoted to a
huge fireplace, whose andirons and turnspit are still in place, and a fire still burns
upon the hearth. Here a light lunch is served and souvenirs are sold
by the Ladies' Association. Next the house stands the original ujell, Outbuildings.
from which one may still pump a drink of water ; and just beyond it is
the great Smolcehouse, always so important an adjunct to every self-supporting Southern
establishment. Beyond the smokehouse, on the road which leads southward toward
the Tomb and steamboat landing, is the old Laundry, and then the Coachhouse in
which may be seen an old-time chaise, said to have been one of the Washington car
riages : in the General's time this house was the shelter for his great white chariot-of-
state. Then comes the Bam, the oldest building on the estate, which was constructed
by Washington's father, in 1733, from bricks said to have been imported from Eng
land. Its roof, of course, is new, and the building is still serviceable.
The outer buildings at the right (or north) of the house, include the building in
which the manager of the estate resided, and where was the Business Office; it is now
the office of the Superintendent. Just beyond was the Carpenter Shop ; and in the
rear of this a larger building called the Spinning-House where, in old times, the slave
women gathered to spin and weave the cotton, wool, and flax for the clothes of the
servants and to make garments and rag carpets ; the room is now filled with looms
and spinning wheels. Still farther away in this direction is seen the row of restored
buildings originally the quarters of the colored servants required about the house,
stables, and gardens. The field hands lived in cabins scattered about the estate. Near
them are the greenhouses.
Tlie Gardens are perhaps the most interesting places in the whole grounds. They
were laid out in a f irmal style of walks and beds, as was then the fashion, defined by
hedges of box, which still grow luxuriantly and are kept well trimmed
as of yore. In the early summer they are a marvel of flowers and beau- Gardens.
tiful foliage. That enclosure on the north side, between the lawn and
the negro quarters, was the rose garden. It contains specimens of that rose named
by Washington for his mother, and others bearing his own name and that of Nellie
Custis. It is no wonder, as we are told, that it was one of the regular afternoon
pleasures of Madame Washington to gather rose leaves here to make rose water and
a certain. perfumed unguent for which she was famous among her friends. It was a
habit of the family to ask distinguished guests to plant something as a keepsake, and
several of these mementos still flourish. The little structure at the end of the long
walk in the garden is reputed to have been the schoolroom of the Custis children.
The "Vineyard Enclosure," as Washington designated it, in the rear of the kitchen,
was devoted more to fruit and vegetables, yet was a charming garden, too.
The Summer House, on the brow of the river bluff, stands upon the site of an
Qriginal one, and hsis beneath it a deep cellar suitable for storing ice. The slope of

168

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

the bluff was devoted by Washington to the purposes of a deer park, and deer have
been replaced there since 1887.

Tlie Mansion and Its Relics.
The mansion is divided interiorly by a broad hall running from side to side, and
having the main stairway, and here one may well begin the survey of the interior.
When Mount Vernon was acquired by the Ladies' Association it was not only out
of repair but the furniture had been distributed to various heirs or sold and scattered.
An effort was at once made to recover as much as possible, in order to
Interior. restore as closely as might be the original home-like appearance of
the house. As it has been impossible to do this thoroughly a great
many other articles of furniture, adornment, and historical interest have been added.
In order to do this the various State branches of the Association were invited to
undertake to refurnish one room each, and many have done so, and the names of
these States are identifled with the apartments they have taken charge of. A con
siderable quantity of furniture as well as personal relics of George and Martha
Washington are here, however, especially in the bedrooms where they died. These
are mostly distinctly labeled, so that the visitor can distinguish between what
belonged to the Father of his Country and what is simply illustrative of the domestic
life of his day.
The Central Hall contains three of Washington's dress swords, the most interesting
of which is the one bequeathed to his nephew Lewis, since it is the one he wore
when he resigned his commission at Annapolis, when he was inaugu-
Central Hall, rated President at New York, and elsewhere on ceremonious occasions.
Another was worn by him in the Braddock campaign. Here, also,
hangs the main key of the Bastile — that prison in Paris which was so justly hated

THE CENTRAL HALL.

by the people, and which was demoUshed by the mob in 1789. Lafayette sent it to
Washington with a characteristic letter; and also the model of the Bastile in the
Banquet Hall. Lafayette's Agreement to serve as Major-General in the American
army hangs near by. The hall appears as it was redecorated by Washington in

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 169
1775, and the engravings are reprints of pictures he owned. The tall clock on the
stairs was presented by New Jersey ; the table belonged to W. A. Washington.
The Music-room or East Parlor opens from this hall by the first door at the right,
and is under the care ofthe Vice-Regent ofthe Association from Ohio. It is crowded
with objects, of which the most conspicuous is the harpsichord that
was given to Nellie Custis by Washington, together with his grand l*lusic-room.
mihtary plume, when she married Lauraiice Lewis in 1798. "When
the hour came the tall, majestic figure emerged from his bedroom clad in the old,
worn continental buff and blue . . . and at the appointed moment gave the
pretty, blushing creature, with her wild-rose cheeks and dark and liquid eyes, into
the keeping of his trusted nephew, Laurance." It is such gracious, homely pictures
as these that rise to the imagination as one loiters about the storied homestead of
the Father of his Country. Here also are the stool belonging to the piano, and
Miss Custis' embroidery frame ; Washington's flute — of rosewood, silver-mounted —
his card-table, the guitar and music-book of a relative, and in the cabinet many small
articles of tableware, his spectacles, a steel camp-fork, etc, which belonged to the
General or his family. The upholstering of the reproduced furniture and the form
of the Venetian mirror are like that originally here.
The West Parlor, entered by the second hall door on the right, looks, in its walls,
ceiling, and handsome corner fireplace, as it did when Washington left it. Above the
mantel are carved the coat-of-arms of the family, and his crest and
initials appear cast in relief on the iron flreback ; the mantel painting West Parlor.
of ships is said to portray a part of the fleet at Carthagena of that
Admiral Vernon after whom the estate was named. The carpet is a large rug
presented by Louis XVI to Washington. It was woven to order, is dark green with
orange stars ; its centei-piece is the seal of the United States, and the border is a
floriated design with swans. The globe and several chairs here also belonged to
the furniture of the house. A spinet and two fine old candlesticks will be noticed,
the latter standing upon a beautiful pier table. This room was refurnished by
Illinois. The flrst door on the left opens into Mrs. Washington's Sitting-room, refurnished
by Georgia in the manner of the period. The mahogany secretary once stood in
Washington's military headquarters at Cambridge, Mass.; and the
tables and mirror are historic. Some elaborate candlesticks and a Sitting-room.
sconce for candles are noteworthy, and the latter belonged in the
family ; while there is here preserved a candle molded for the illumination at York-
town in celebration of Cornwallis' surrender. The engravings representing the siege
of Gibraltar hung in this same house when its master was alive.
2786 Dining-room is next beyond, and still has the appearance and much of the
furniture of the time of its illustrious owner. The Italian mantel and stucco orna
ments of the walls, cornice, and ceiling are admirable ; and the orna
mented flreback came from "Belvoir," the country seat of Lord Fairfax, Dining-room.
Washington's early friend and patron, while the andirons and fender
belong to the Rutledge house. The sideboard was Washington's, and the cut-glass
decanter and table cutlery and cases ; while the china in the corner cupboard is a
copy of the set given to Mrs. Washington by the officers of the French fleet in 1792.
The rug, tables, and chairs belong to that period ; and among the portraits of
Revolutionary generals on the walls is one of Miss Cunningham, who originated
the Mount Vernon Association.
The southern end of the house is occupied by a second stairway and by a large
apartment known as the Library in which are gathered an original mahogany

170

PICTORIAL GUIBiii xu vv AsiiiiNUiOii.

'^t.jS

THE BANQUET HALL.
bookcase, and a few of the volumes which belonged to Washington, most ofthe remain
der of which are now in the Athenseum Library of Boston. The shelves
Library. of the bookcases are now filled mainly with duplicates of those Wash
ington possessed and wilh literature about Washington ; and upon the
walls hang reprints of documents connected with his public life, one of which is a
printed proof of the Farewell Address, corrected by Washington's own hand. A silver
inkstand, some chairs, a painting of the Great Falls of the Potomac, made at his
request, and a few small articles are personal relics.
The Banquet Hall is an addition made to the northern end of the house after
George received it from his father. Its length is the whole breadth of the mansion,
and its richly ornamented ceiling is two stories in height, while it is
Banquet lighted by a broad, arched and mullioned window. Opposite the win-
Hall, dow is a highly ornate fireplace and mantel of Italian marble and
workmanship, which once occupied a place in the home at Wanstead,
England, of Samuel Vaughn, who brought it to America as a gift to Washington in
1785. The center of the hall is occupied by a great table, similar to the original one,
upon which lies Washington's " plateau " of silver and mirror-glass, intended as an
ornament for the center of the table on ceremonious occasions. His punch bowl is
also to be seen among many other small articles of use or ornament that were in the
house, and which are now safely locked in a cabinet. The model of the Bastile, a
French clock that still keeps good time, two porcelain vases, silver bracket lamps, a
mirror, rosewood stands for flower vases, a surveyor's tripod, and lesser objects are
identified with the house and its owners; while a lock of the General's hair and
Martha's ivory fan are peculiarly personal and precious. The old silk standard is
reputed to have been captured by Washington ; and visitors should examine closely
the portrait woven upon silk, in French Jacquard looms, which cost $15,000, so elab
orate a process was required. A great painting by Rembrandt Peale fills the west
ern end of the room, which has been fitted up by New York.
Of the bedrooms on the second floor the most interesting to all is that of the
General himself — the Room in which Washington died. It is at the south end of the
house, over the library, and the ladies of Virginia have been able to restore it more
pearly to its original appearance than any other part of the house. The be4 is m

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

171

ROOM IN WHICH GENERAL WASHINGTON DIED,
the same place and the same one upon which Washington died, and the chairs, small
tables, and mirror were a part of the scene. The hangings of the win
dows and bedstead copy those of the time ; two cushions were worked Death
by Martha Washington and a dimity chair cover shows the needlework Chamber.
of her granddaughter; while parts of Washington's traveling chest and
camp equipage remind the beholder of his stormy life. There is little else in the
room than what properly belongs there, and the simplicity is impressive.
Martha Washington died, three years after her husband, in the room in the attic
immediately above this — a bedroom she had chosen because his room
had been closed (as was the custom), and from this south attic window Martha's
she could see his grave. Wisconsin has refitted her room as nearly as Room.
possible as it was when Martha slept there, but only the corner wash-
stand really belonged to her. Other rooms on the second floor are known by special names.

ROOM IN WHICH MARTHA WASHINGTON DIED.

172

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

The Lafayette Room is so called because the Marquis occupied, it when at Mount Vernon;
it was refltted by New Jersey. The River Room, by Pennsylvania, con-
Bedrooms. tains furniture identifled with Franklin and other of Washington's
friends and relatives. The Guest Chamber is due to Delaware; the Green
Room to West Virginia ; and that in -which Nellie Custis slept to Maryland, where the
bedstead and other furniture all belonged to old Southern families who lived in a
style very similar to that at Mount Vernon. The Upper Hall, communicating with
these bedrooms, has a cabinet in which are to be seen several of the Mount Vernon
flre-buckets, a brown suit of clothes, with velvet waistcoat and silk stockings worn
by Washington, and a compass and reading glass that were used by him, as well as
several relics of members of his family and descendants. The musket was brought
to America by Lafayette.
Attic. In the Attic a series of small bedrooms have been furnished by the
vice-regents of various States, with articles of colonial manu
facture and interest.
2. To Arlington N^ational Cemetery and Fort Meyer.

Arlington, an estate identifled in a peculiarly intimate manner with the history of
the founding and preservation of the IFnion, and singularly beautiful withal, would
be one of the most attractive places at the National Capital apart from
Beauty of the sacred interest imparted to it by its soldier dead. For several gen-
the Estate. orations before the Civil War the home of the Custis and Lee families,
it has been devoted since that time to the purposes of the foremost of
the natirnal military cemeteries. Here, behind the inscribed arches of the great
gates, made from the marble pillars of the old War Department building, and under

ARLINGTON HOUSE,— Formerly the Home of General Robert E, Lee.

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

173

the oaks that belonged to the greatest of "their enemy,'' sleep almost a score of
thousands of Union soldiers, and every year sees the eternal enlistment in their ranks
of many more — among them officers of rank and distinction famous for deeds that
shall make their names immortal.
Two routes may be taken to Arlington, and the best way is to patronize both,
going by one way and returning by the other. This prevents retracing one's steps,
and makes the course of walking down hill. In pursuance of this
method take the Pennsylvania Avenue cars (if the F Street cars are Rotttes.
taken, descend the stone steps from Prospect Street to Pennsylvania
Avenue at the Union station) to the extremity of the line (Union station, Thirty-sixth
Street) in Georgetown, and walk across Aqueduct Bridge to Roslyn, Virginia, where,
at the western extremity of the bridge, electric cars may be taken to Fort Meyer and
the northern gate of Arlington Cemetery. This is a ride of hardly ten minutes, and
the whole trip from the Treasury c msumes only thirty-five minutes
when close connection is made ; fare from Roslyn, 10 cents ; round Public
trip, 15 cents. Public carriages start from the terminal station at the Carriages.
Fort Meyer gate, in which passengers are given a tour of the cemetery
for 25 cents ; a stop of five minutes is made at the mansion, whce a lay-over ticket
is also given if asked.
The distance from the Fort Meyer gate to the Mansion, following the main road
and flagstone walk, is about a third of a mile, and shows nearly all of the older and
more cultivated part of the Cemetery. Southward of the path the
graves of thousands and thousands of soldiers of the Civil War spread Soldiers'
away through the woods, as far as can be seen, each marked by a small Graves.
marble headstone, with here and there a more prominent mark. At
intervals are placed, in front of this fatal and impressive array, iron tablets bearing
lines or stanzas selected from Col. Theodore O'Hara's eloquent poem.

THE BIVOUAC OF THE DBAn.

The muffled drum's sad roll lias teat
The soldier's last tattoo ;
No more on life's parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.

Sons of the dark and bloody ground.
Ye must not slumber there.
Where stranger steps and tongues resound
Along the heedless air ;

On Fame's eternal camping-ground
Their silent tents are spread,
And Glory guards, with solemn round.
The bivouac of the dead.

Your own proud land's heroic soil
Shall be your fitter grave ;
She claims from war its richest spoil -
The ashes of her brave.

No rumor of the foe's advance
Now swells upon the wind ;
No troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind.

Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead I
Dear an the blood ye gave ;
No impious footsteps here shall tread
The herbage of your grave;

No vision of the morrow's strife
The warrior's dream alarms.
No braying horn nor screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.

Nor shall your glory be forgot
"While Fame her record keeps.
Or Honor points the hallowed spot
Where Valor proudly sleeps.

The neighing troop, the flashing blade.
The bugle's stirring blast
The charge, the dreadful cannonade.
The i}n and shout are past.

Nor wreck, nor change, nor winter's blight.
Nor time's remorseless doom,
Shall dim one ray of holy light
That gilds your glorious tomb.

174 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
On the left, or north, of the path the hillock is more irregularly dotted with mon
uments to commissioned officers of the army, many of whom were distinguished in
the Mexican or Indian wars previous to that of 1861-65. Beside many
Graves of of them rest their wives, in accordance with the privilege given by the
Officers. Government. Here, among many of less note, rest such famous com
manders as Belknap, Burns, Gleason, Gregg, Harvey, Hazen, Ingalls,
King, Kirk, Lyford, Meyer (whose idea it was that these grounds should be set apart
for this purpose), McKibbin, Paul, Plummer, Steadman, Turtellotte, and many
others; and the monuments are often exceedingly appropriate. The interest
increases as the Mansion is approached. This noble house, whose pillared portico
is so well seen from the city, stands upon the brow of a magnificent
Site and hill overlooking the valley ofthe Potomac and the Federal city — a
View. broad and beautiful view. On the brow of this bluff are buried officers
of special distinction and popularity, and here may be seen the graves
and monuments of some of the Union's latest and most distinguished defenders.
Here lie Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, beneath a grand memorial stone ; Admiral David
D. Porter, Maj.-Gen. George H. Crook, whose monument bears a bronze bas-relief of
the surrender ofthe Apache Geronimo; Maj.-Gen. Abner Doubleday, the historian of
Gettysburg ; Generals Meigs, Ricketts, Ben^t and Watkins ; Colonel Berdan,
of "sharpshooter " fame, and others. In the rear of the mansion is a
Temple of miniature temple upon whose columns are engraved the names of
Fatne. |^ great American soldiers ; and a lovely amphitheater of columns, vine-
embowered, where Decoration Day ceremonies and open-air burial
services may be conducted. Near it is a great granite mausoleum in which repose the
bones of 2,111 unknown soldiers gathered after the war from the battle field of Bull
Bun, and thence to the Rappahannock. It is surrounded by cannon and bears a
memorial inscription. Near by, in a lovely glade, is buried Gen. Henry W. Lawton,
killed fighting in the Philippines in the autumn of 1899.
The victims of the destruction of the battleship Maine, in Havana, and several
hundred soldiers who lost their lives in Cuba and Porto Rico, during the war with
Spain, in 1898, are buried together in the southern part ofthe cemetery.
Soldiers and reached by a pleasant road, winding through the peopled woods ; and
Sailors of their monument is a battery of great naval guns.
the Cuban The Arlington mansion is a fine example of the architecture of its
War. era, and resembles Jefferson's mansion at Monticello. Its upper floor
is occupied by the official in charge, but the lower rooms are mainly
empty, and visitors are content with a glance at them, preferring the open air and
light of the lawns and gardens about the house, and the groves that now cover the
adjacent fields. This old home of the Colonial aristocracy is not only
The Mansion, closely identified with the annals of early Virginia, but with the polit
ical development of the country. It was bought as a tract of 1,160 acres,
for £11,000, by John Custis, who, early in the eighteenth century, came from the
Eastern shore to live on his new property. His was one of the "first families of
Virginia" in every sense of the word, and possessed great wealth; but he had various
domestic troubles, one of which was, that his high-spirited son, Daniel Parke Custis,
insisted upon neglecting a high-born heiress, prepared by his parents for his" future
consort, and marrying, instead, pretty Martha Dandridge, the belle of
Custis Williamsburg, the Colonial capital. The old gentleman was very angry,
Family. until one day, we are told, Martha Dandridge met him at a social gath
ering, and fairly captivated him. The marriage was made and prospered,
and, when old Custis died, his son and his wife came into possession and residence

176

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

THE TEMPLE OF FAME.

here at Arlington, where Daniel soon died, leaving Martha a young widow with two
children, John Parke and Eleanor Custis. His will entailed this estate to his son, and
divided his other property, the wife receiving, as her share, lands and securities worth,
perhaps, |100,000. In due time this rich and blooming widow re-entered society,
where she presently became acquainted with a Colonial colonel, who had recently
achieved military fame in Braddock's expedition against Fort Duquesne. He lived
with his mother at Mount Vernon, only fifteen miles below, and his name was George
Washington. It was not long before he had wooed and won the charming and opulent
widow, who laid aside her weeds and went with her two children to live at her hus
band's home. Together they managed and cared for the Arlington estate, until its
young owner should come of age, and both were often there. The daughter died, but
the son grew to manhood, received his noble property, married a Calvert, and served
upon his stepfather's staff during the latter part of the Revolution. Then he, too,
died (1781), and his two infant children were adopted by Washington and deeply
loved. They kept their own names, however, and Nelly, who seemed to have
inherited the beauty of her grandmother, married Major Lewis, a Virginian. Her
brother, George Washington Parke Custis, upon reaching his majority, inherited and
took possession of Arlington, at the beginning of the present century ; and immedi
ately began the erection of the present mansion, which, therefore, Washington himself
never saw, since he died December 13, 1799, while this house was not completed until
1803. A few months afterward, Mr. Custis married Mary Lee Fitzhugh, one of the
Randolphs, and four children were born to them, but only one survived, a daughter.

^^^Vda,.Vl<S ABOUT WASHINGTON.

177

TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN DEAD,

TOMB OF GENERAL PHILIP H, SHERIDAN.

12

178

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

THE SHERIDAN GATE. — Arlington.

Mary. The Custis family
lived at Arlington, improv
ing and beautifying the
estate, winning the good
opinion of all who knew
them, and entertaining
handsomely until the
death of Mrs. Custis, in
1853, and of her husband,
the last male of his family,
in 1857. The estate then
fell to the daughter, who,
meanwhile, had married
a young army officer, Rob
ert E. Lee,
The Lees, son of
"Lighthorse
Harry" Lee, the dashing
cavalryman of the Revo
lution, entwining into the story of the estate another strand of the best fabric of Vir
ginian society. Arlington immediately became the home of this officer, and when
the Civil War came, and Colonel Lee went out ofthe Union with his State, his great
est personal sacrifice, no doubt, was the thought of leaving Arlington. Indeed, so
little did he foresee that he was going to be the leader of a four-years' struggle, that he
took away none of the furniture, and very few even of the great number of relics of
Washington, many of intrinsic as well as historic value, which the house contained.
Federal troops at once took possession of the estate, and everything of historical value
was seized by the Government, so that most of the collection, with other relics, is now
to be seen at the National Museum. Arlington could not be confiscated, because
entailed.; but the non-payment of taxes made a pretext for its sale, when it was
bought in for |23,000, by the United States Government, which established the
military cemetery here in 1864. When, several years after the war, G. W. Custis Lee
inherited the estate, he successfully disputed, in the Supreme Court, the legality of
the tax-sale, but at once transferred his restored rights to the Government for
$150,000, which was paid him in 1884.
The return from Arlington is easily and pleasantly made by walking down to
one ofthe gates and taking the cars of the Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon
Railway for Washington, by way of the Long Bridge. Three hours will suffice to
make this trip satisfactorily. The grounds remain open until sunset.
A visit to Fort Meyer may well be combined with this excursion.

3. To Fort Myer.
The principal military post near Washington is located on the Custis estate -

-of

nearly two square miles, with a mile frontage on the Potomac, opposite the city. It was
occupied by the military forces when Col. Robert E. Lee resigned from the army in
1861. Officers and privates who died of wounds in hospitals near Washington were
interred in one section and the remainder was used during the war for fortifications,
store houses, and drill grounds for mihtary service, and as a refuge for the slaves of the

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 179
South. After peace was established many of the earthworks were razed and now officer's
quarters, barracks, drill hall, and hospital, on well paved streets, make
Signal Corps a model army post. Recently a section has been allotted to the signal
Post. corps — a large balloon house, electric buildings, signal apparatus, and
officers' and privates' quarters add greatly to the iuterest visitors show
in military works, and to the importance of this United States reservation. The only
rail route to Fort Myer is by trolley car from Aqueduct Bridge, a distance of two miles,
and an elevation of two hundred fret being traversed in about five minutes. The
track and roadbed of this line aro on private right-of-way, and of standard construction
throughout. Climbing this terrace of the Potomac Valley are views of the river and its
bridges, the Capitol, Washington's- Monument, White House, and other Government
buildings. Arriving at the Summit Station, on one side is seen the Arlington National
Cemetery with its marble columns embowered amid magnificent oak trees. On the
other side the Fort Myer buildings are in contrast, a city of military life. Beyond,
toward Columbia and Nauck Springs, is the parade ground, a rolling table-land. The
railway extends two miles farther, giving visitors to Washington an opportunity of
seeing the most prominent and interesting points in the center of Alexandria County.
Tickets and all information as to points of interest, and every convenience for travelers
are found at the railway stations. At the Rosslyn Station, which is also a post office,
there Is a good lunch and dining room. Over the bridge runs a transfer coach to the
Pennsylvania Avenue cars. Nearly everyone, however, prefers to walk across the bridge
and enjoy the views of beautiful Analostan Island — for many years the home of the
famous Mason family of Virginia. Large factories are also seen in Rosslyn, and the
Alexandria County Court House, on the Falls Church line, near Fort Myer, although a
modern building, contains numerous historical records.
4. To Falls Church, Virginia.
Nestling among the green hills of old Virginia, at an altitude of nearly 400 feet, and
distant but six miles from the city of Washington, lies the historic and beautiful town
of Falls Church; historic as containing one of the oldest churches of the State, where
Washington formerly worshiped, and as the scene of many skirmishes during the
prolonged civil strife, and the camping ground of both armies; beautiful both from the
hands of nature and of man. Situated in an elevated valley, protected by the sur
rounding hills from the violent storms which sweep over the prairies and low lands,
this romantic spot was selected, directly after the Civil War, as the homes of enterprising
Western and New England citizens who were attracted to it by its beauties and many
natural advantages. Most of these citizens, being employed in the Government service,
have sufficient means to beautify their homes, which they have done by planting shade
trees, making beautiful lawns, fiower gardens, etc. According to the last census, the
nominal inhabitants of the town are 1,007, but the number is nearly doubled during the
summer months by the influx of Washington City people, who delight to spend the
heated term in a cool and healthy locality, free from malaria and mosquitoes. Its
inhabitants are cosmopolitan, being originally from nearly all parts of the country. The
little town is incorporated and has a mayor, council, town sergeant, and clerk. It lies
partially within the limits of the original District of Columbia (now known as Alexandria
County) and partially within Fairfax County. It is easily accessible by two railroads —
the W. & O. Branch of the Southern Railway passing through the eastern boundary, and
the Washington, Arlington & Falls Church Electric Railway passing from the east to the
west end of the village. Cars leave the Aqueduct Bridge on the electric road every hour
during the day until three o'clock, and every half hour thereafter, and every half hour on

180 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
Sundays and holidays, making the trip to Falls Church in about twenty minutes, the
rate for the round trip being twenty -five cents and to West End thirty cents. This road
also makes a commutation rate of seven cents per trip. Many of the business men ot
Washington, realizing the healthfulness and advantages of the Falls Church locahty,
have settled there, notable among whom is A. M. Lothrop, of the firm of Woodward &
Lothrop, who has purchased a large farm which he has improved with every modern

RESIDENCE OF

convenience; Messrs, Rufus and Rezin Darby have also erected large and substantial
dwellings near there. The late Gen. H. W. Lawton formerly resided there, owning one
of the most beautiful places in the center of the town. Admiral Porter at one time owned
a cottage there, and Dr. P. M. Rixey has recently purchased a large stock farm which
he is rapidly improving. Several retired army and naval officers have also located there.
Falls Church is strictly a temperance town; no license for the sale of liquor having been
granted there for many years. Its public schools are of a high order, and it also
maintains a high school. Among the iiublic institutions of the town is the Virginia
Training School for Feeble-minded Children, and a public library. It has churches of
nearly every denomination, the oldest of which is the Episcopal Church, erected in 1747
and still occupied. Telegraph and telephone lines give rapid communication to all
parts of the country. A telephone exchange is maintained there centralizing the tele
phone business of all that section of the country, and from there messages are transmitted
over trunk lines to all long-distant points. Falls Church is a desirable place in which
to reside, and a delightful place to visit. It is well supplied with physicians, dentists,
lawyers, and other professional men; has a good hotel, livery stables, and several large
boarding houses, the "Falls Church Inn," and the "Evergreens" being the principal
summer resorts. Many historical points of the country are easily accessible from Falls
Church, Fairfax Court House, the county seat of Fairfax County, is only eight miles
distant. Washington's original will, in his own handwriting, is deposited with the
county clerk, who is the official custodian. He also has in his possession many other
old and valuable documents. Capt. Jos. E. Willard and many other prominent men

iJAdJDKBIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

181

reside there. The liiittle-lields of Bull Run and Manassas are a short distance west and
easily accessible by driving over a beautiful undulating country. Munson's Hill, the
place where McClellan reviewed his magnificent army, is a little over a mile south of
Falls Church. Camp Alger is located near Falls Church, the site being selected by
Secretary Alger on account of its known healthfulness and abundance of pure water.
In going to Falls Church over the electric road the county of Alexandria is traversed
from east to west, passing tbe new county court house, recently erected, and passing
near the old Caleb Gushing mansion, as well as many other beautiful, well-kept country
residences. Alexandria County is rapidly increasing in population. Many wealthy people
have recently lociiteil there, having homes on the heights overlooking the Potomac.
The tourist can not spend a more profitable or pleasant day than to take a trip over the
electric line to FaUs Church, and from thence to some of the historical points men
tioned. "The Falls " (Episcopal) Church was erected in the year 1747 by the reigning monarch
of 'England, the brick used in the structure being brought from that country. This
church was one of the several erected along the Potomac and James rivers about that
time, and this being located nearest to the Great Falls of the Potomac, was called "The
Falls Church, " and from that the town derived its name. Regular services are still
maintained and the church is kept as near as possible in.its original condition Many
visitors are attracted to it on account of its ancient appearance, and historical connection

FALLS CHURCH (EPISCOPAL), FALLS CHURCH, VA,

182

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

VIRGINIA HOME AND TRAINING SCHOOL FOR THE FEEBLE MINDED, FALLS CHURCH, VA,

Washington having used it as a place of worship prior to the erection of the Pohick
Chapel. Another account of Falls Church is as follows:
Falls Church (Episcopal) was erected in 1773, for £600. Christ Church, Alexandria,
was built the same j^ear, and of both churches General Washington was a vestryman.
The contract for Falls Church was taken by James Wrenn, who was to be paid either in
currency or its equivalent — 83,000 pounds of tobacco. It was furnished after the old
style, with box pews, a high, wine-glass pulpit, and tablets on either side the chancel
with the decalogue and the Lord's prayer in large letters. The floor was laid with tiles,
undoubtedly imported. The church fell into disuse before the close of the last century,
and was in an abandoned state for a number of years, the roof having fallen in and cattle
finding shelter within its walls. Afterward it was repaired by Mr. Henry Fairfax, a
grandson of the Rev. Bryan Fairfax, at his own expense and thoroughly restored. It
was long in charge of the Rev. R, Templeman Brown as rector, and was in a flourishing
condition at the breaking out of the war, when it was taken possession of by the United
States troops, first as a hospital and subsequently as a stable, the pews, pulpit, tablets,
floor, and even a part of the walls being destroyed. After the war it was repaired, cheaply,
and has been used since as a place of worship, though in a languishing state.
Its communion service, the gift of friends, is of soUd silver, mostly from plate and
from the sale of watches, jewelry, etc., given for the purpose.
Its churchyard has numerous graves, and some ancient tombstones are still to be
seen. The present sexton, Mr. John Lynch, has, in the thirty- four years he has held
that position, buried there 263 persons, mostly people of the neighborhood.
The Virginia Home and Training School for the Feeble-minded was established in
1893, and is the only private institution of the kind in the South. It receives, at reason
able rates, all classes of the feeble-minded, and its equipment and accommodations are of
the best. The house is large and comfortable with all modern conveniences. The

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

183

grounds are beautiful and extensive, affording ample room for exercise and games. For
full particulars address. Miss M. Gundry, Falls Church, Va.

6. To the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Church, Fort Stevens,
Battle and National Cemeteries, the Catholic
University, and Brookland.
The Soldiers' Home stands in the midst of a noble park, with a wide outlook from
high grounds directly north of the Oapitol, from which it is distant four miles in a
straight line. It is a favorite terminus for driving and bicycling, beautiful roads lead
ing thither from the head of Connecticut Avenue or Fourteenth Street, and less
desirable ones returning through the northeastern quarter of the city. Two lines of
street cars approach the Soldiers' Home, giving the tourist an alternate
Route. route going and coming ; and he should devote the better part of a
day to this excursion. The direct route out is by the cars north on
Seventh Street, connecting with the Brightwood line from the boundary to the Eagle
or western gate of the Soldiers' Home grounds. A short distance beyond the
boundary, at the right of the road, are seen the tall brick buildings
Howard of Howard University — a collegiate institution founded soon after
University. the war, as an outgrowth ofthe Freedmen's Bureau, for the education
of colored youths of both sexes. Its first president was Maj.-Gen. 0.
0. Howard (who had resigned from the army temporarily to undertake this work),
and it has maintained itself as a flourishing institution, having some three hundred
students annually.

THf SQLPIERS' HQMg.

184 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
The new Distributing Reservoir, to which the famous and incomplete " Lydecker
Tunnel " was intended to carry water from the Potomac conduit, occupies the high
ground north of the university.
The ride out to the end of this road, at the District limits, is a very pleasant one
all the way ; and if one is fond of walking, he can do well by going on through the
suburban villages of Potworth and Brightwood to Silver Springs and
Takoma — the latter a station on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad almost Country
at the extreme northern corner of the District. It is then a very RoadS.
pleasant walk back to the Soldiers' Home, along the Blair and Rock
Creek Church roads, near the railroad, which are bordered by luxuriant hedges of
osage orange. This is a fair country road for bicycles. Extensions of electric lines
are progressing, one line now reaching to Forest Glen, Maryland.
Near Brightwood, in plain view off at the left as you go out upon the cars, are the
crumbling parapets of Fort Stevens, which was one of the agencies in protecting the
city against Confederate attack in 1864, when fighting occurred all through these
woods and fields.
Early's Raid, in July, 1864, was the only serious war scare Washington had, but
it was enough. Panic-stricken people from the Maryland villages came flocking in
along this road, bringing such of their household goods as they could
carry. For two or three days the city was cut off' from communication Early's Raid.
with the outside world, except by way of the Potomac River. The dis
trict militia was reinforced by every able-bodied man who could be swept up.
Department clerks were mustered into companies and sent to the trenches, with any
odds and ends of fighting material that could be gathered. There was an immense
commotion, but the capital w'as never so demoralized as was alleged of it at the
time. Within forty-eight hours, from one source and another, 60,000 men had
been gathered. Meanwhile the stubborn resistance made some miles up the river, by
Gen. Lew Wallace, whose wide reputation as the author of " Ben Hur," ''The Fair
God," etc., was still to come, who delayed the invading host against frightful odds
until the fortifications were well manned, had saved the city from being sacked and
the President from capture. It is not too much to say that Wallace's prompt and
courageous action did this thing. Wallace was forced back, of course, but when
Early got him out of the way and reached the defenses north of the city, he found
the old Sixth Corps there, and, contenting himself with a brisk skirmish in the fields
in front of Fort Stevens, he fled, carrying away the plunder of hundreds of desolated
Maryland farmhouses. The President was not only intensely anxious but eagerly
interested. Noah Brooks, in ais "Washington in Lincoln's Time,'' says of him;
"He went out to Fort Stevens during the skirmish . . on July 12, and repeat
edly exposed himself in the coolest manner to the fire of the rebel sharpshooters.
He had once said to me that he lacked physical courage, although he had a fair
share of the moral quality of that virtue ; but his calm unconsciousness of danger,
while the bullets were flying thick and fast about him, was ample proof that he
would not have dropped his musket and run, as he believed he cer
tainly would, at the flrst sign of physical danger." Battle
Those killed in this affair were buried in the little cemetery by Cemetery.
the Methodist Church, now called Battle Cemetery.
The Soldiers' Home is the forerunner and type of those which were erected in
various parts ofthe country after the Civil War, but it is not in the same class. It is
an institution established in 1851 by the efl'orts of Gen. Winfield Scott, and out of cer
tain funds received from Mexico, as a retreat for veterans of the Mexican War, and
for men of the regular army who have been disabled or who, by twenty years of

JJUji-V U J\i

MU110 AJiOUT WASHINGTON.

185

honorable service and a payment of 12 cents a month, have acquired the right of
residence there the remainder of their lives. This gives the veterans a pleasing sense
of self-support, in addition to which many are able to earn money by working about
the buildings and grounds and in various ways. There are ordinarily
History of about five hundred men there, who live under a mild form of military
Soldiers' discipline and routine, wear the uniform of the army, and are governed
Home. by veteran officers. The affairs of the Home, which has now a fund of
over $1,000,000 and a considerable independent income, are adminis
tered by a board composed of the general of the army and his principal assistants at
the War Department.
" The main building is of white marble, three stories in height, and is fashioned
after the Norman order of architecture. On the grounds are several elegant marble
cottages occupied by the officials, a pretty church of Seneca stone, a capacious hospi
tal building with wide piazzas, from which charming views of Washington and the
Potomac can be had, a fine library building, well stocked with books and periodicals,
and numerous other structures. On the brow of one of the hills stands a bronze
statue of General Scott, by Launt Thompson, erected by the Home in 1874, at a cost
of $18,000. The entire estate is inclosed
by a stone wall, surmounted by a small
iron fence of handsome design. Fifty
acres are under cultivation, and fine
crops of fruits and vegetables are
raised. "Near the main building is a large
cottage often used by the Presidents of
the United States as a summer residence.
It is surrounded by noble trees, and has
a very attractive appearance. Pierce was
the first President to pass the summer
here, and Buchanan, Lincoln, Johnson,
Hayes, and Arthur have preferred its
quiet comfort to the statelier life in the
White House."
In the rear of the Home, on the
wooded slope beyond Hare wood Road,
lies one of the national military ceme
teries, entered by an arch upon whose
pillars are inscribed the
Cemetery. names of great Union
commanders in the Civil
War. Here rest the remains of about
5,500 Federal and 271 Confederate sol
diers, less than 300 of whom are un
known. The grounds contain a pretty
stone chapel, in which lies the body of
Gen. John A. Logan.
Rock Creek Church and its beautiful
cemetery, northeast of the Soldiers'
Home, and separated from it by the fine
Rock Creek Church Road, are worth statue of general winfield scott.
examination. Soldiers' Home, By Launt Thompson.

186

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

"MEMORY." — By Partridge. Rock Creek Cemetery,

This is the oldest house of worship
in the District of Columbia, or near it,
and was erected in 1719, by the planters
of the neighborhood, of bricks imported
from England as ballast in empty tobacco
ships. It was remodeled, however, in
1868, and now appears as a small steeple-
less structure nearly hidden among great
trees and surrounded by ancient graves
and vaults, whose tablets bear the names
of the foremost of the old Maryland
families and early Washingtonians. The
oldest graves are nearest the church; and
one headstone is pitted with marks of
minie balls, showing that some soldiers
have used it as a convenient target.
The cemetery is still used, and contains
two splendid bronze mortuary statues,
one of which, by St. Gaudens, at the
grave of Mrs. Adams, is
that mysterious veiled Memorial
sitting figure entitled, StatUes.
"Peace of God," which
is famous throughout the art world.
The monument above the grave of Peter Force is also of much interest. In Mrs.
Lockwood's " Historic Homes" will be found a long incidental account ofthe history
of this sacred spot and the relics still used in the service ofthe old church.
A delightful homeward way is to walk
across, a mile or so, through the paths
of the Soldiers' Home park to the termi
nus of the Eckington electric railroad;
but many will be interested, instead,
to go around the Military Cemetery, and
up the hill to the right, where, in the
woods, may still be seen the star-shaped
embankments of Fort Totten, with
numerous rifle-pits and outworks. This
is one of the best preserved and most
accessible ofthe old forts, and its parapets
command a wide and beautiful landscape.
From Fort Totten the Harewood Road
may easily be reached and followed
southward along the eastern side of the
park until it emerges upon the campus
of the Catholic University.
C.This is the national institution of
higher learning established by all the
Catholic bishops of the United States in
the Third Plenary Council of Baltimore,
and is regarded by Pope Leo XIII as one " grief." _ By Augustus St. Gaudens.
of the chief honors of his pontificate. Rook Creek Cemetery,

k-v^ u j.v».:)xv.^xi u

vliCUT WASHINGTON.

187

The grounds comprise seventy acres, and the visitor is at once struck by the stately
appearance of the structures already erected. Divinity Hall was
Catholic erected in 1889. It is a solid stone structure of 266 feet front
University. and five stories in height ; the lower floor is given up to classrooms,
museums, and the library; the upper floors are occupied with the lodg
ings ofthe professors and students of the department of divinity ; the top story is a
well-equipped gymnasium. The Divinity Chaptl is admired by all visitors. The build
ing to the right is known as the McMahon Hall of Philosophy, and was dedicated in
1895. It is built of granite throughout, is 250 feet front, and flve stories high. It
consists entirely of lecture-rooms, classrooms, laboratories, and museums. It accom
modates two great schools or faculties, each comprising several departments of study.
The School of Philosophy comprises departments of philosophy proper, letters,
mathematics, physics, chemistry, biology, and has attached to it a department of
technology giving full instruction in civil, mechanical, and electrical engineering. The
School of the Social Sciences comprises
departments of ethics and sociology,
economics, political science, and law.
The former faculty leads up to the
degree of Ph.D., the latter to all degrees
in law. Immediately adjoining the
university are three affiliated colleges,
called St. Thomas' College, the Marist
College, and the Holy Cross College.
Each of these contains from fifteen to
twenty students of philosophy and the
ology, and their professors. They attend
courses in the university. The divinity
courses are attended only by ecclesias
tics of the Catholic Church. To the
legal, philosophical, and scientific
courses lay students are admitted, with
out regard to their religious creed.
The old country village and present
suburb of Brookland lies just beyond,
and farther on are Hyattsville and other
suburban residence centers, reached by
the Eckington line of electric railway,
which extends northeast as far as Ber
wyn, Maryland. The time of return
ing from the University and Soldiers' Home Station by this
Suburban line is about twenty-five minutes. Just south of the Station, west
Towns. of the suburban district of Edgewood, through which the line passes,
are the Glenwood, Prospect Hill, and St. Mary's (Roman Catholic)
cemeteries, which contain the graves of many famous persons and some tall monu
ments. Nearer the city line is the fine suburb, Eckington, in the midst of which,
upon a beautifully wooded hill, is the Colonial building of the Eckington Hotel, open
in summer. This line enters the city along New York Avenue, and terminates at
the Treasury.

JOHN HOWARD PAYNE MONUMENT.
Oak Hill Cemetery,

188 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO AVASHINGTON.
6. To the "Zoo," Rock Creek National Park, and Chevy Chase.
This is an excursion into the northern and mo.st beautiful corner of the District,
reached by taking the cars out Fourteenth Street to the boundary, and then (by
transfer) the Chevy Chase line. The latter extends from Sixth Street
(connecting with the Seventh Street line) along U Street West, through Routes.
Hancock Circle (where New Hampshire Avenue crosses Sixteenth
Street), and thence turns up the hill at Eighteenth Street, and goes across Rock Creek,
and out into the country, along Connecticut Avenue Extended, passing on its way
half way around the Zoological Park.
A zoological garden is among the most recent additions to the sights ofthe capital.
It is open all day, including Sunday, and no admittance fee is charged.
Previous to its organization and the purchase of this site of about 167 acres, in
1890, the National Museum had accumulated by gift many live animals, but had no
means of caring for them ; these at once became the nucleus of the
new collection, which was placed under the general charge of the Zoological
Smithsonian Institution, with Frank Baker, M.D., as superintendent. Park,
Two definite objects have been in view here. The original idea was
not a park for public exhibition purposes — a popular ' ' Zoo " — but a reservation in
which there might be bred and maintained representatives of many American ani
mals threatened with extinction. Congress, however, enlarged and modified this
notion by adding the exhibition features, making the place a pleasure-ground as well
as an experiment station, and consequently imposing upon the District of Columbia
one-half the cost of its purchase and maintenance. Nevertheless, the managers do
all they can to carry out the original, more scientific intention.
A walk of five minutes from the cars at the gate brings the visitor to the principal
Animal House, which is a commodious stone building, well lighted and well venti
lated, and having on its southern side an annex of very fine outdoor cages, where
the great carnivora and other beasts dwell in warm weather. The collection is not
very large, as the funds do not at present allow of the purchase of animals, which
must be obtained by gift or exchange. Captures in the Yellowstone National Park
are permitted for the benefit of this garden, and have supplied many specimens.
The hardier animals (except a few antelopes and kangaroos, which have a stable)
are quartered out of doors all the year round in wire enclosures scattered about the
grounds. These are all healthy and happy to a gratifying degree, and
as a result they produce young freely. The herds of bison, elk, and Animals.
deer were recruited mainly from the Yellowstone Park. The former
occupy adjacent paddocks upon the rising ground north of the animal house, and the
latter enjoy extensive pastures and a picturesque thatched stable somewhat to the
east, on a hillside sloping down to Rock Creek. In another quarter are to be seen
the cages of the wolves, foxes, and dogs. The beavers, however, probably constitute
the most singular and interesting of all the features of the garden at present. They
consist of a colony in the wooded ravine of a little branch of Rock Creek, where they
cut down trees, burrow in the banks of the stream, and construct dams and houses,
precisely as in a state of nature. The Bear Dens are the best of their kind in the
country, being rude caves blasted out of the cliff left by an abandoned quarry, which
form natural retreats for their big tenants.
An alternative way out of the garden is to climb the rustic stairway near the Bear
Dens, and walk a few rods to the street-car station at the Rock Creek bridge.
Chevy Chase is a charming suburb, just beyond the District line, at the extremity
of Connecticut Avenue Extended, which is cut straight across the broken and

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 189
picturesque region west of Rock Creek. The forested gorge of this romantic stream,
east of the avenue, and embracing most of the region between it and
Chevy Chase, the proposed extension of Sixteenth Street, or "Executive Avenue,"
has been acquired and reserved by the Government as a public park ;
but as yet no improvements have been attempted, and it remains a wild rambling-
ground full of grand possibilities for the landscape artist.
Chevy Chase consists of a group of handsome country villas, among which an old
mansion has been converted into a " country-club," with tennis courts, golf links, etc.
attached, and here the young people of the fashionable set meet for outdoor amuse
ments, in which fox-hunting with hounds, after the British fashion, is prominent. A
large hotel was started here, but the building is now occupied as a school. An addi
tional fare is charged for travel beyond the circle at the District line, and there is little
to attract the traveler farther northward. Instead of turning back, however, it is a
good plan to walk southwestward eight or ten minutes, passing old Fort Reno, and
striking the Tenallytown electric road at the Glen Echo Junction, where he can return
direct to Georgetown, or can go on to Glen Echo, and then up to Cabin John Bridge
or Great Falls, or out to Rockville, or back to Georgetown by the electric line along
the bank of the Potomac. 7. Greorgetown and Its Vicinity.
Georgetown, now West Washington, was a flourishing village and seaport (the river
channel having been deeper previous to the construction of bridges) before there waj a
thought of placing the capital here ; and in its hospitable houses the
History. early officials found pleasanter homes than the embryo Federal city
then afforded. Its narrow, well-shaded, hilly streets are yet quaint
with reminders of those days, and it has residents who still consider their circle of
families the only persons "true blue." Georgetown is still a port of entry, but its
business does little more than pay the expenses of the office.
Before the era of railroads Georgetown had distinct importance, due to the fact
that it was the tidewater terminus of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, which was
flnished up the river as far as the Great Falls in 1784, and in 1828 was carried
through to Cumberland, Maryland, at a cost of 113,000,000. It never realized the
vast expectations of its promoters, but was of great service to Georgetown, and is still
used for the transport of coal, grain, and other slow freights.
Pennsylvania Avenue forms the highway toward Georgetown, but stops at Rock
Creek. The cars turn off to K Street, cross the deep ravine over a bridge borne upon
the arched water-mains, and then run east to the end of the street at
Union the Aqueduct Bridge. Here a three-story union railway station has
Station. been built ; into its lowest level come the cars of the Pennsylvania
Avenue line, and the top story forms the terminus of the electric rail
way to the Great Falls. Stairways and elevators connect the three floors, and reach
to Prospect Avenue above.
Georgetown does not contain much to attract the hasty sight-seer, though
much for the meditative historian. A large sign, painted upon a brick house near
the Aqueduct Bridge, informs him that that is the Key Mansion —
Key House, the home for several years of Francis Scott Key, the author ofJ' The
Star-Spangled Banner," who resided here after the War ot 1812,
became district-attorney, and died in 1843. Similar personal memoranda belong
to several other old houses here. On Analostan, for example — the low, forested
island below the farther end of Aqueduct Bridge — lived the aristocratic Masons
during the early years of the Republic, cultivating a model farm and enter-

190

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

GEORGETOWN UNIVERSITY, WASHINGTON, D. C,
taining royally. One of the latest of them was John M. Mason, author of the
Fugitive Slave Law, and an associate of Mr. Slidell in the Confederate mission to
England, which was interrupted by Wilkes in the Trent affair. The most prominent
institution in this locality, however, is Georgetown College. This is
the School of Arts and Sciences of Georgetown University, wliJch is Geor^^etown
under the direction of the Fathers of the Society of Jesus. This school, College.
consisting of three departments — postgraduate, collegiate, and prepara
tory — is the oldest Catholic institution of higher learning in the United States, hav
ing been founded in 1789. The college was chartered as a university by act of
Congress in 1815, and in 1833 was empowered by the Holy See to grant degrees in
philosophy and theology. The present main building, begun in 1878, is an excellent
specimen of Rhenish-Romanesque architecture, and its grounds cover seventy-eight
acres, including the beautiful woodland " walks " and a magniflcent campus. The
Riggs Library, of over 70,000 volumes, contains rare and curious works. The Cole
man Museum has many fine exhibits, among them interesting Colonial relics and
valuable collections of coins and medals. Not far from the college, on a prominent
hill, is the Astronomical Observatory, where many original investigations are made
as well as class instruction given. Thirty-nine members of the faculty and 300
students comprise the present census of this school.
The School of Law, situated in the vicinity of the District courts, is one of the best
in America, numbering on its staff several leading jurists; the faculty now numbers
fifteen, the students over 300. The School of Medicine is fully equipped for thorough
medical training under distinguished specialists ; the faculty numbers forty-nine, the
students, 125. The total number of students in the university is about 750.
Oak Hill Cemetery, on the southern bmk of Rock Creek near P Street, is a beautiful
burying ground rising in terraces and containing the graves of many dis
tinguished men and women. It is reached by the line ofthe Metropolitan Oak Hill.
street cars, more commonly called the F Street line ; leaving the cars
at Thirtieth Street, a walk of two squares north will bring the visitor to the entrance.
' ' Near the gateway is the chapel built in the style of architecture of Henry VIII.

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 191
This is matted by ivy brought from ' Melrose Abbey.' In front of the chapel is the
monument of John Howard Payne, the author of ' Home, Sweet Home, ' who had
been buried in 1852 in the cemetery near Tunis, Africa, and there remained until, at
the expense of Mr. Corcoran, his bones were brought to this spot, and in '83 were re-
interred with appropriate ceremonies. The statue of William Pinkney is near here
also (he was the Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Maryland, and nephew of William
Pinkney, the great Maryland lawyer). It represents that prelate in full canonical
robes, and was dedicated to his memory by Mr. Corcoran, who was the friend of his
youth, the comfort of his declining years. The mausoleum of Mr. Corcoran for his
family is a beautiful specimen of mortuary architecture ; this is in the northwestern
section of the cemetery, while in the southeastern is the mausoleum of the Van Ness
family, whose leader married the heiress, Marcia, daughter of David Burns, one of tlie
original proprietors of the site of Washington City. This tomb is a model of the
Temple of the Vesta at Rome. The cemetery comprises twenty-five acres, incorpo
rated in 1849, one-half of which, and an endowment of $90,000, were the donation of
Mr. William W. Corcoran. Here were buried Chief Justice Chase, Secretary of War
Stanton, the great Professor Joseph Henry, and many others illustrious in American
annals." Extremely pleasant rambles may be taken to the north and east of this ceme
tery, and it is not far across the hills to the Naval Observatory. This is the astronom
ical station of the Government under control of the navy and presided over by an
officer of high rank, whose first, object is the gathering and collection of information
of use to mariners, such as precision of knowledge of latitude and longitude, varia
tion of the compass, accuracy of chronometers and other instruments
U. S. used in the navigation of ships of war, and similar information more
Observatory, or less allied to astronomy. Purely scientific astronomical work is
also'carried on, and the equipment of telescopes and other instruments
is complete, enabling the staff of learned men — naval and civilian — attached to the
institution to accomplish notable results in the advancement of that department of
knowledge. The special inquirer will be welcomed by the officers at all suitable
hours, and on Thursday nights cards of invitation admit visitors generally to look
through the great telescope.
This observatory dates from 1892, when it was moved from the wooded elevation,
called Braddock's Hill, at the Potomac end of New York Avenue, which it had occu
pied for nearly a century. That ground was a reservation originally set apart at the
instance of Washington, who wished to see planted there the foundations of the
National University — the dream of his last years. It is called University Square to
this day. 8. Georgetown to Tennallytown and Glen Echo.
From Georgetown an electric road runs north out High Street and the Tennallytown
Road to the District line, where it branches into two lines. Leaving the city quickly
it makes its way through a pretty suburban district, out into a region of irregular
hills and dales, where, about one mile from the starting point, the new United States
Naval Observatory is seen about a quarter of a mile to the right. Just beyond its
entrance is an industrial school. The general district at the left is Wesley Heights,
ninety acres of which, and the name, are the property of a Methodist association,
which proposes to establish there a highly equipped university, to be called the
American, modeled upon the plan of German universities, and open
Woodley to both sexes. The site ofthe buildings will be west of Massachusetts
Heights. Avenue, where it intersects Forty-fourth Street, forming University
Circle. Work is beginning on the buildings, and the endowment is
growing. The district west of the road is Woodley Heights, Woodley adjoining it

192 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
further east along the valley of Rock Creek. Tunlaw Heights is another local
"subdivision" here; and somewhat farther on is Oak View, where there is a lofty
observatory, open to anyone who cares to climb it and obtain the wider outlcok,
embracing a large part of the city. A few years ago there was a great "boom" in
suburban villa sites near here, and many noted persons built the fine houses which
are scattered over the ridges in all directions. Among them was Presi
dent Cleveland, whose house, " Red Top " (from the color of the roof), " Red Top."
is passed by the cars just beyond Oak View. It was afterward sold by
the President to great advantage, and during his second term he occupied another
summer home not far to the eastward of this site. The cross-road here runs straight
to the Zoological Park, a trifle over a mile eastward. Woodley Inn is a summer hotel
on the left ofthe road, which keeps northward along a ridge with wide _, ..
views, for a mile and a quarter farther to Tennallytown, lately become a
suburb of considerable population, largely increased by families from
the city in summer. A road to the left (west) from here gives a very picturesque walk
of a mile and a half over to the Receiving Reservoir, and a mile farther will take you
to Little Falls, or the Chain Bridge. Up at the right, at the highest point of land in
the district (400 feet), the new reservoir is seen, occupying the site of Fort Reno,
one of the most important of the circle of forts about the capital during the Civil War.
A wooded knoll, some distance to the left, shows the crumbling earthworks of a lesser
redoubt near the river road, which branches off northwest from the village. Three-
quarters of a mile beyond Tenallytown the limit of the District of Columbia is
reached, and the Junction of the line to Glen Echo. The main line runs north to
Rockville, Maryland.
The Glen Echo line runs a car every half-hour (fare 5 cents) along a winding
road through the woods to the Conduit Road and bank of the Potomac, at the Glen
Echo grounds.
9. Georgetown to Glen Echo, Cahin John, and Great Falls.
The Georgetown and Great Falls Railroad Company operates an electric line to
the Great Falls of the Potomac, which affords one of the most delightful excursions
out of Washington. Its large cars leave the Union Station, in Georgetown, and take
a high course overlooking the river valley, which becomes much narrower and
more gorge-like above the city, with the Virginia banks very steep, rocky, and broken
by quarries. The rail^ are laid through the woods, and gradually descend to the
bank of the canal which skirts the foot of the bluff. About three
miles above Georgetown is the Chain Bridge, so called because the Chain
earliest bridge here, where the river for some two miles is confined Bridge.
within a narrow, swift, and deep channel on the Virginia side, was
made of suspended chains. The lofty bank is broken here by the ravine of Pimmit
Run, making a convenient place for several roads to meet and cross the river. The
bluffs above it were crowned with strong forts, for this was one of the principal
approaches to Washington. A mile and a half above the Chain Bridge, having run
through the picturesque woods behind High, or Sycamore, Island, owned by a
sportsmen's club, you emerge to find the river a third of a mile wide again, and
dashing over black rocks and ledges in the series of rapids called the
Little Fafls of the Potomac. The wild beauty of the locality makes it Little Falls.
a favorite one fur picnicking parties, and bass fishing is always excel
lent. The Maryland bank becomes higher and more rugged above Little Falls, and
takes the name of Glen Echo Heights. (Also reached by cars from Georgetown via
Glen Echo Junction.)

EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON.

193

THE CABIN JOHN BRIDGE. —Length of Span, 220 Feet; Height, 57 Feet.
Glen Echo is a place where it was proposed to combine educational privileges
with recreation, and form a suburban residence colony and day resort of high
character. Extensive buildings of stone and wood, including a very
Glen Echo. spacious amphitheater, were erected in the grove upon the steep bank
and commanded a most attractive river view ; in them courses of valu
able lectures, Sunday services, and concerts of a high order were given, and many
means of rational enjoyment were provided, but the project failed.
The river has pretty banks to Cabin John Run, where the fine arch of the cele
brated bridge gleams through the trees. The remainder of the run
Cabin John (five miles) is through a wild, wooded region at the edge of the canal
Bridge. and river, which is again narrow, deep, and broken by islands flooded
at high water, with high, ravine-cut banks. This is a favorite place
with Washingtonians for fishing with rod and fly, from the banks ; Daniel Webster
often came here for this purpose.
The Great Falls of the Potomac are a series of bold cascades forming a drop of
eighty feet within a few hundred yards of distance, very pretty but hardly deserving
the panegyrics bestowed by some early writers. The place will always
Great falls, be exceedingly attractive, however, especially to artists and anglers. The
appearance of the falls has been considerably modified, and probably
enhanced, by the structures of the City Water- works, for this is the source of Wash
ington's public water supply. The water is conveyed to the city through a brick con
duit, which runs along the top ofthe Maryland bank, and is overlaid by the macadam
ized di-iveway called the Conduit Road. This work of engineering meets its first
serious difficulty at Cabin John Run, where a stone arch leaps across the ravine in a
single span— unequaled elsewhere — of 220 feet.

194 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.
10. To Bladenshurg and Kendall Green.
Bladensburg is a quiet Maryland village, some seven miles northeast, on the Balti
more & Ohio Railroad. It is a port on the Anacostia, to which large boats formerly
ascended with goods and went back laden with farm produce. Through
it ran the stage road from the north; and here, August 24, 1814, the Bladens-
feeble American army met the British, under Ross and Cockburn, who burg.
had marched over from their landing-place on the Patuxent River,
intent upon the capture of the Yankee capital. The Americans, partly by blundering
and partly by panic (except some sailors under Commodore Barney), ran away after
the first attack, and left the way open for the redcoats to take and burn the town as
they pleased; but they inflicted a remarkably heavy loss upon the invaders.
"It is a favorite drive with Washingtonians to-day," remarks Mr. Todd, in his
Story of Washington, " over the smooth Bladensburg pike to the quaint old village.
Dipping into the ravine where Barney made his stand, you have on the
right the famous dueling ground, enriched with some of the noblest Battle Field.
blood of the Union. A mile farther on, you come out upon the banks
of the Eastern Branch, here an inconsiderable mill stream, easily forded, though
spanned by a bridge some thirty yards in length. On the opposite shore gleam
through the trees the houses of Bladensburg, very little changed since the battle-day.
Some seventy yards before reaching the bridge, the Washington pike is joined by the
old Georgetown post-road, which comes down from the north to meet it at an angle
of forty-five degrees. The gradually rising triangular field between these two roads,
its heights now crowned by a clubhouse of modern design, was the battle ground."
A string of pleasant suburban villages nearly join one another along the railway
and turnpike — Highland, Wiley Heights, Rives, Woodbridge, Langdon, Avalon
Heights, and Winthrop Heights or Montello. The last is well inside
the district and brings us back to Mount Olivet Cemetery burial ground, Mount
lying between the turnpike and the railway near the city boundary, Olivcti
which has the sad distinction of containing the bodies of Mrs. Surratt,
one of the conspirators in the assassination of Lincoln, and of Wirz, the cruel keeper
of Andersonville prison. Electric roads now reach all these suburbs.
The National Fair Grounds, opposite Mount Olivet and west of the railroad, con
tain the Ivy City race track. The suburban " addition," Montello, is north of the fair
grounds, and south of them is Ivy City, with Trinidad east of the railroad. The
southern part of Ivy City is occupied by the extensive grounds of the Columbia
Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, popularly known as Kendall Green.
This institution, which is reached by cars on H Street to Seventh Street,
N. E., was incorporated in 1857, and is for the free education of deaf-mute children
of sailors and soldiers of the United States, as also of the children of the District
so affiicted. It was indebted in its early years to the benefactions of
the Hon. Amos Kendall, who gave land, money, and buildings toward Kendall
its establishment. All students have opportunity to learn to speak, the Green.
system of instruction including both manual and oral methods. Poor
students are received on very liberal terms. Visitors are admitted on Thursdays
between the hours of 9 and 3.
11. To Benning and Chesapeake Beach.
Benning and Deanewood are suburban villages east of the Anacostia River, and
reached by the Columbia line of electric cars, out G Street and
Benning Road, N. E. At Benning is the principal race track of the Benning
District, where spring and fall races are run that attract everybody Races.
interested in such things. Benning is also a connecting point of
the Chesapeake Beach Railway, a line of steam railroad some thirty miles in length,
which connects the capital with a shore resort upon Chesapeake p^ ^„^~Up
Bay called Chesapeake Beach. These trains run into the city station ^ncsapeaKC
of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad by way of Hyattsville. At the iseacn.
beach are hotels, amusement places, bathing facilities, and much that is naturally as
well as artificially attractive.

DICTIONARY FOR
VISITORS TO THE NATIONAL CAPITAL.
NAME LOCATION HOURS INTERESTING FEATURES
Agriculture— Mall, bet. lath & 14th 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Museum; palm house; expert
Department of streets. mental greenhouses and orna
mental gardens.
Reached by Belt Line cars; or by walking from Pennsylvania Avenue and 13th Street.
Marshall House; Christ Church;
Alexandria Six miles south of Alexandria Lodge Room; Brad-
the Treasury. dock Headquarters and Camp-
ing Grounds, and other historic
scenes and monuments.
Reached by hourly trains on the Washington, Alexandria and Mt. Vernon (Electric)
Railway; by the steamer " Charles Macalester," or a ferry-boat, from the Seventh street
wharf; or by steam trains of the Southern Railway.
American Re
publics— 2 Jackson place. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices.
Bureau of
Aqued uot Crosses the Potomac
Bridge at Georgetown. Sunrise to sunset, Lee Mansion ; graves of over
Arlington— Heights, west of IncludiDg Sun- 16,000 soldiers and sailors ; elab-
Xational Cem- Potomac. days and holl- orate monuments ; trophies of
etery days. Cuban war.
Reached by way of Georgetown, Aqueduct Bridge and electric cars to Fort Meyer and
the Northern Gate ; or by electric cars from Pennsylvania avenue and 13}^ street, via
Long Bridge. Public carriages make frequent trips through the cemetery, fare 25 cents.
Army Medical S. E. corner Smith- Pathological and surgical mu.
Museum Bonian Grounds, 7th 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. seum and library.
and B streets, S.W.
Reached by Seventh street cars.
Arsenal— Foot of i}^ street,
Washington S. W. All day. Artillery drills ; river view.
Barracks
Botanical Gar- Pennsylvania aye,, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Greenhouses; Bartholdi fountain.
den 1st to 3d streets. Reached by all Pennsylvania avenue cars.
Cabin Jolin 5^4 miles up the Picturesque out-door resort.
Bridge Potomac,
Reached by Metropolitan electric cars from Prospect avenue and 36th street, Georgetown.
9a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Rotunda; Senate; House of Rep-
Capitol Capitol Hill. or until Con- resentatives ; Supreme Court ;
gress adjourns. paintings, statuary and bronzes.
Reached on the south and west sides by the Pennsylvania avenue cars, and on the north
and east sides by the Metropolitan F street lines. A flag flies over each house while it is
in session, and sessions at night are indicated by lights upon the dome.
Catholic TTnlver- Eckington All day. Buildings and library.
8lty Reached by Eckington line of electric cars.
195

196

PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOlSr.

NAME LOCATION HOURS
Census Building B street, 1st to 2d. No admission,

INTERESTING FEATURES
Offices.

Centre Market
Christ Church
City Hall

Pennsylvania avenue
and 7th street

All day.

Flower stalls; country wagons,
etc.

G street, between 6th
and 7th, S. E.

Sundays.
Reached by Pennsylvania avenue cars to Navy Yard.
Judiciary square. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. District offices.

Oldest church in the city ; Con
gressional cemetery.

Civil Service Eighth and E streets.
Commission

9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices

Coast and Geo- New Jersey avenue
detic Survey and B street, S. W.

9 a.m, to 2 p.m. Offices.

Columbian Uni
versity

H and 15 streets.

Congressional G street between 6th All day.
Burying Ground and 7th, S. E.
Adjacent to Christ Church ; reached by Navy Yard cars,

Monuments and cenotaphs.

Congressional library {See Library of Congress.)

Corcoran Gal- New York a venue See below. Painting ; statuary ; bronzes and
lery of Art and 17th street. a great variety of objects of art.
The Gallery is open every day (the Fourth of July and Christmas day excepted) from
9.30 a,m. to 4 p.m. from October 1st to May 1st and from 9 a.m, to 4 p,ra. May ist to
October ist. On other public holidays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Sundays except in
midsummer, from 1.30 to 5 p. m,, when the admission is free. Mondays (open 12 to 4 p.m.),
Wednesdays and Fridays, admittance 25 cents; other days free. Catalogues for sale.
Reached by Pennsylvania avenue cars to 17th street.

Court of Claims Pennsylvania a v e -
nue and 17th street.

9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices.

Dead I.etter Second Floor, Gen-
Oface eral Post Office.

Museum of postal curiosities and
philately.

Education —
Commissioner

8th and G. streets. 9 am. to 2 p.m. Pedagogical library.

Engraving and Mall, 14th and B
Printing— streets, S. W.
Bureau of
Reached by Belt Line cars. Visitors
Ethnology— 1333 F street.
Bureau of

9 to 11.45 a.m. and Machinery and processes used in
la.ao to 2.30 p.m. printing banknotes, bonds and
postage stamps.
allowed only in parties conducted by an attendant.
9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices and library.

Executive Mansion (See White Hoiise)

Fish Commis- Armory Building, 6th
sion and B streets, S. W.

9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Aquaria and flsh-cultural appa
ratus.

Ford's Theatre 10th street between
E and F.

Not open. Building in which Lincoln was
assassinated.

Fort Meyer

Arlington hills, west
of the Potomac.

All day. Cavalry drills.
Reached by electric cars and stages from west end of Aqueduct bridge.
9 a.m. to a p.m. Offices and library.

Geological Sup- 1330 F. street.
vey

Georgetown Col
lege

Georgetown.

All [day. Library and laboratories.

DICTIONARY FOK VISITOKS TO THE NATIONAL CAPITAL.

197

NAME

LOCATION

HOURS

INTERESTING FEATURES

Halls of the An- 1812 to 1318 New York 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Reproductions of Ancient civili.
clents avenue. zations.

An admission fee of 50 cents is charged ; 25 cents to parties of ten or more.
All day. Educational methods.

Howard Unlver- University hill be-
sity tween 4)^ and 6th
streets.
Reached by Seventh street cars transferring to Brightwood line.

Indian Affairs— 7th, E and F street.
Bureau of
Interior— "Patent Office," 7th
Department of and F street.
Justice— K street, opposite
Department of McPherson square.
Labor- New York avenue
Department of and 15th street.

9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices,
9 a.m. lo2p.m.
9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices.
9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices.

Patent office, museum and lib
rary.

library of Con.
gress East of the Capitol,

Architecture and ornamentation;
mural paintings ; sculptures ;
9 a,m. to 10 p.m. mosaics ; curiosities ot early
printing and Illustration ; read
ing-rooms.
Reached by Pennsylvania avenue and F street lines of cars. The building is brilliantly illu
minated in the evening, which is a favorable time in which to see the interior decorations.

Iiibrary, Free 1326 New York ave-
Public nue.

9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Books for general circulation.

Lincoln Museum

Marine B ar
racks

Mount Vernon

516 10th street.
8th street, between G
and I, S. E.

All day.
All day.

Sixteen miles down 11a.m. to 4 p.m.
the Potomac.

Relics related to Lincoln.
Drilling of Marine Corps.
Home and Tomb of Washington.

Reached by hourly trains of the Washington, Alexandria and Mt. Vernon Electric Rail
way from 13}^ street and Pennsylvania avenue and morning and afternoon by steamer
" Charles Macalester from Seventh street wharf ; by either line round trip, 50 cents ;
admission to grounds, 25 cents. >^
National Mu- Mall, opposite 10th 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Zoological, ethnological and In-
seum street. dustrial collections.
Navy- State, War and Navy 9ti.m. to 2p,m. Models of war ships ; trophies.
Department of Building.

Navy Yard

Foot of 8th street,
S. E.

All day. Manufacture of naval cannon ;
trophies ; museum of relics.
All day. Monuments of notable men.

Oak Hill Ceme- Rock Creek, near P.
tery street
Reached by Metropolitan (F street) cars to Georgetown.
7 to 9 Thursday Astronomical apparatus and ob-
Observatory, North of Georgetown evenings only. servations through the tele-
Naval Cards of admis- scope.
sion required.
Reached by F street and Rockville electric lines from Georgetown.
Patent OfSce 7th and P streets, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Museum of models.
Pension OfHce Judiciary square. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Central hall and columns.
Reached by F street and G street lines of cars.
Post Office, Gen- Pennsylvania ave- Offices ojen 9 a.m.
eral and City nue, 11th and 12th to 2 p.m. See "Dead Letter Office."
streets,
Money-order division open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Registry division open from 8,30 a.m.
to 6 p.m. for delivery of registered matter. For the receipt of matter for registration the
division is always open. General-delivery window never closed. Stamps can be pur
chased at any time day or night. Money-order and registered-letter business transacted
at all of the branch post-offices in the city. Reached by Pennsylvania avenue, Ninth
street and Eleventh street lines of cars.

198 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON.

NAME LOCATION HOURS INTERESTING FEATURES
Printing Office, North Capitol and H Visitors in partiesconduoted Machinery and meth-
Government streets. through the building at ods of printing and
10 a.m. and 2 p.m. book making.
Reached by H street cars from Fifteenth and G street.
Bock Creek Rook Creek Road,
Church northeast of Sol- All day. Flue monuments in cemetery.
dier's Home.
' Reached by Seventh street and Brightwood lines of cars.
Smithsonian In- Mall, opposite 10th 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Museum of birds, marine ani-
stltution street. mats, and American arohaslogy.
Reached by Seventh street line of cars.
St. John's Epls- H and 16th street. Sundays.
copal Church
Soldier's Home Near 7th street ex- All day including Fine grounds, with wide view;
tended. holidays. monuments and relics.
Reached by Seventh street and Brightwood cars.
State- State, War and Navy 9 am. to 2 p.m. Library and historical relics.
Department of Building.
Treasury, The Pennsylvania ave- 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Making, distribution, and care of
V. S, nue and 15th street. government treasure.
Visitors are shown through the building from lo to t2 a.m., in parties of twelve by attend
ants who explain everything shown ; all visitors a'ssemble at the door of the Treasurer's
office, in the northeast corner of the main floor and register their names.
^Var— State, War and Navy 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Captured cannon and other
Department of Building. trophies.
Washington Mall, west of 14th 9,30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. View from summit.
Monument street.
Reached by Belt Line cars from the Capitol, or by transfer (2 cents extra), from Penn-
sylvaaia avenue cars. The elevator runs (free) to the top of the monument every half
hour from 9,30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.; but no one will be talien up in the last trip (4.30), if 30
persons (the capacity of the elevator), are already there.
"WeatherBureau 34th and M streets, 9a.m, to2p,m. Offices.
. East Room open
IFliite House Executive Grounds. daily, 10 a.m. to Home of the Presidents.
2 p.m.
No general public receptions are held by the President, except on New Year's day, but
visitors havmg business with the President will be admitted from 12 to i o'clock daily,
excepting on Cabinet days, so far as public business will permit.
Young Men's
Christian As- 1732 G street.
sociation
Zoological Park, Adam's Mill Road, All day. Living animals.
National N.W.
Reached by Seventh or Fourteenth street cars and transfer to U street line, thence to
Chevy Chase cars, or by Chevy Chase cars direct from the Treasury,
HANDY GUIDE TO THE
Hudson R-iver and
Catskill Mountains
249 pages, 18 illustrations, with large scale
sectional maps. Price, 2S cents.
RAND, McNALLY & CO.,
New York and Chicago,

a^H'-STj

The Standard American Brand
{Established 1860)
THEY cost a trifle more than the common makes,
but you get a Pen that will last longer and write
better. A complete sample card — 42 Pens for 25 CentS
or a card with selected numbers— 12 Pens for 10 CentS
will be sent postpaid on receipt of price.
SPENCERIAN PEN CO.
349 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY.
Butcher's Boston
is the best finish made for FLOORS,

Polish

Dre ss
for
Comfort

Interior Woodwork, and Furniture
Not brittle ; will neither scratch nor deface like shellac or varnish.
Is not soft and sticky like beeswax. Perfectly transparent, pre
serving the natviral color and beauty of the wood. Without doubt
' most economical and satisfactory Polish known for Hard-
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For sale by dealers in Paints, Hardware, and House Furtiishings,
Send for our FREE BOOKLET tellin? of the many
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The Butcher Polish Co., 356 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.
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 Kitchen and Piazza Floors. 
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or by mail postpaid
The C. A. Edgarton M£g. Co.
Box 408 Shirley, Mass.

THe Best
TONIC
When you are all tired out, sleep
does not refresh, or the digestion and
appetite are poor, there is no remedy
so effective as
Horsford's Acid Phosphate
If your druggist cannot supply you we will send
small bottle prepaid on receipt of 25 cents.
RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R. I.

PARK AVENUE HOTEL
Park(4th) Ave., 32d & 33cl Sts.
New York

ABSOLUTELY FIRE
PROOF
EUROPEAN PLAN
51 .00 to S4.00 per day and upwards

Accessible to all Railroads, Ferries
Theatres and Department Stores

Two minutes from Grand Central Station and ten minutes from Pennsylvania
Ferry, Twenty-third Street. Thirty-third Street and Fourth Avenue
Subway Terminal directly in front ofthe door.

RE:ED & BARNETT,

Proprietors

INDEX.

Heavy figures indicate illustrations.

A dams. Death of  
-ti- Agriculture, Departmen t of 
Agricultural Museum   __ 
Alexandria   __ 
American Republics, Bureau of 
Anacostia _._  _ 
River  
Suburbs  
Arlington  __ 
Arlington. Arlington House  _ 
Beauty of the Estate  
Bivouac ofthe Dead   
Custis Family   
Graves of Officers  
Lees, The.-  
Mansion, Tbe   
Public Carriages   
Routes  _.
Sheridan Gate, The 
Sheridan, Tomb of Gen. Philip H. . .
Site and View  _  
Soldiers and Sailors of the Cuban
War 
Soldiers' Graves  
Temple of Fame __ 
Tomb of the Unknown Dead 
Army and Navy Club  
Medical Museum  
Statues _   
Art Galleries  

120
121159 112 83
162 83
172

172 173
174 174
178174173
173174 174174
173174 174
137 125125
129

Baltimore & Ohio Station  II
Bancroft House   149
Bartholdi Fountain, The  _ 
Battle Cemetery   181
Baudin   30
Benning Races   191
Bicycles   12
Bierstadt, Albert   28
Bladensburg    191
Battlefield  191
Blaine House    154
Boarding-houses   13
Botanical Garden    86
British Legation, Tbe  _  155
Brumidi. Constantino  22
Bnlwer House, The  148
Bureaus, etc.:
American Republics  112
Coast and Geodetic Survey  80
Engraving and Printing  
Ethnology    193
Geological Survey    112
Indian    112
Land Office   - 112
Patent Oflice    110
Pension   110
Printing Office    119
Weather..    131

Cabin John Bridge 
Catholic University of America  184
Capitol, The.
Apotheosis of Washington, The —
Beginning of the  16
Brumidi's Canopy  21
Central Portico  19
QOBt  -.  18

17a

178177

176177

84
156

119

11 1
111

190

S4

Capitol, The Continued)
Crawford's Group  is
Crypt  ___.; 31
Discovery of the Mississippi 21
Dome, The  _ 24
Early Expectations  "79
East Front  
Floor Plan of the Principal Story of
the    
Franzoni's Clock  35
From the Capitol Grounds 
Grounds    15
House of Representatives  2a
Bronze Stairways  29
Eastern Grand Stairway. . . 30
Hallofthe.   28
House Basement  ., 31
House Galleries  .28, 30
Mace  _.  28
Paintings   28
Portraits  mt
Sub-basement  31
Western Grand Staircase  29
Landing of Columbus at San Salva
dor, The 
Plans and Architects..   16
Representatives, Original Hall of... 25
"Rescue. The," Greenough's 
Rogers Bronze Door  19
Rotunda  20
Rotunda Doors   21
Rotunda Frieze   23
Rotunda Statues    24
Rotunda Wall Paintings   21
Senate, Basement    32
Busts   87
Chamber     .32
Chasm of the Colorado, The 
Crawford Bronze Doors  34
Eastern Staircase  34
Electoral Commission, The 
First Fight of the Ironclads , The 37
Frescoes in Committee Rooms. . 32
Galleries   38, 36
Grand Canyon of the Yellow
stone, The  
Marble Room..   35
Paintings and Portraits  37
Perry at the Battle of Lake Erie 34
President's Room  35
Reception Room   35
Vice-Presidents, Busts of  38
. Vice-President's Room  85
Weather Service   35
Western Staircase  36
Signing the Declaration of Independ
ence    22
State Statues    27
Statuary Hall    26
Statuary Hall, Acoustic Curiosities . 27
Statuary Hall, Old Hall of Repre
sentatives  
Style and Dimensions   18
Supreme Court, Busts of Judges  38
Chamber  37
Robing.room  38
Undercroft     32
View Looking West from the 
Washington, Greenough's Statue of. 16
Western Front  ,  ,,  39

83
8, 9
17
15
89

81

19
80

33
36

3736

36

84 6

301

202

Capitol, The (continued).
West Front at Night, Illuminated
with Search-lights 
Westward the Course of Empire
Takes Its Way   29
Cemeteries :
Arlington National...   172
Battle  181
Congressional    81
Mt. Olivet    191
Oak Hill   187
Rock Creek.   182
Roman Catholic   184
Soldiers' Home  182
Census Bureau  110
Center Market   87
Chain Bridge   189
Chapman, John Gadsby    21
Chesapeake Beach  191
Chevy Chase    186
Chinese Legation, New  
Christ Church   ...81,160
Church of the Covenant  135
Churches     135
City Hall  14
Post Office   108
Waterworks  190
Civil Service Commission  112
Clubs    137,149
Coast and Geodetic Survey  80
Columbia Athletic Club  137
Columbian University   148
Commissioners of Education   112
Commissions :
Civil Service.     112
Fish    126
Conduit Road    100
Congi'essional Cemetery   81
Connecticut Avenue...    118
Convention Hall   186
Corcoran Art Gallery   129
Corcoran Gallery ot Arts, The 
Bronzes and Replicas  131
Charlotte Corday in Prison 
Description of Building.  129
Last Days of Napoleon I 
Marbles..    181
Paintings  1-30
Portraits   131
Statuary Hall  
Tayloe Collection   181
W. W. Corcoran   129
Cosmos Club   148
Country Roads.   181
Court of Claims  107
Crawford, Thomas  18
Dead Letter Office   107
Museum of...  108
Decatur House, The    146
Departments: Agriculture   1 20
Interior   308
Justice   107
Labor   112
List of    99
Navy   103
Post Office   10", 108
State   99
Treasury   102
War   100
Dictionary for Visitors  - . -   195
Diplomatic Corps, The    142
Room, Department of State-
Distributing Reservoir   181
District and Municipal Affairs   14
Of Columbia, Origin of  18
Institutions   81
Duddington Manor  79
Dupont Circle   156
Statue of Admiral Samuel F.-. 156

INDEX.

79

113

151161136

189
130

138

101
109 101 103 101

113

FASS
Early's Raid    181
Eckington   184
Edgewood  184
Education, Office of the Commiesionerof 112
Emancipation Monument  81
Engraving and Printing, Bureau of  119
Etiquette, Official    139
Everett House, The   149
Ewell House  146
Excursions About Washington  159
Executive Avenue   182
Departments    99
Mansion.-   91
Proposed   98
Falls Church    179
Farragut, Statue of Admiral David G. 1S5
Farragut Square  155
Fish commission, The United States.-- 126
Force, Peter     --- 45
Ford's Theater  --  -  88
Foreign Office    100
Fort Foote  160
Lyon     -- 160
Monroe, Steamboat to  11
Meyer    --- II'S
Totten..--    183
Sheridan     163
Stevens    181
Washington     163
Fourteenth Street    147
Franklin Square   147
Statue of Benjamin  88
Franzoni's Clock, Capitol    25
Free Public Library    112
French Embassy   149
Garfleld, Shooting of President  14
Statue of Pres. James A  86 87
Geological Survey    112
Georgetown -    186
Christ Church -   160 161
Interior  160
College   -- 187
History of  186
Key House   186
Union Station  186
Gingko Trees    147
Glen Echo --    -.- 190
Glen Echo Heights  189
Giesboro Point-  ---  ---  162
Government, District   14
Hospital for Insane  162
Printing Office   112
Grant Gift House   - 157
Grant's (General) Headquarters---  - 102
Great Falls of the Potomac  190
Greene, Statue of Major-General Natha
nael    80
Greenough, Horatio    16
Gridiron Club   137
Gross Monument   125
Hacks and Cabs    13
Halls ot the Ancients  132 134
Halsall, Wm.P   37
Hancock, Statue of General   87
Healy, George P. A   96
Historic Houses:
Bancroft House    149
Bulwer House-   148
Decatur House --   146
Duddington Manor  79
Everett House  149
Ewell House-   146
Madison House  145
Octagon House    118
Seward House    145
Stockton House--   149
Sumner House  146
Tayloe House   145
Van Ness Mansion  118
Wirt House   15Q

INDEX.

203

PAOE
History, Early  14
Hospital Square  " gi
Hotels   '" 12
Early   _"" §7
Listof Principal.   3
Houdon, Jean Antoine  26
Howard I'nlversity  IgO
H Street  148
Hunting Creek  162
Inaugural Balls   110
Indian Office   113
Interior, Department of the   108
Iowa Circle  157
I Street    150
Ivy City Race Track  191
Jackson, Statue of President Andrew.. 144 145
Justice, Department of  IO7
Kendall Green  191
K Street  '.'.'. 153
T abor. Department of  112
-'-' Lafayette Memorial Statue  144
Lafayette Square   143
Opera House, Site of . . 144
Land Office, General  112
Latrobe, Benj. H  18
Leutze, Emanuel  39
Library, Free Public  ' 113
Library of ConaresB  45 40,41
Administration   74
Aglaia  67
Alexander Paintings  57
" America and Africa "   53 53
Ancient Games  63
Architecture and Style  46
" Arts and Sciences,'' Cox's  68
Autographs and MSS., Historic  65
Barse Paintings  70
Benson Paintmgs  66
Book Illustration  69
Bronze Door " Tradition "  51 46
Care of Books  75
Ceiling  63
Comus  54 70
Copyright Office   75
Corinthian Arcades   60
Corridors  61
Decorations  46
Dodge W. de L. Paintings  64
Dome and Galleries  72
Dome Frescoes. Blashfield's  74
"Human Understand
ing" ....  74
Significance   74
Early Books  64
"Elements"  69
"Endymion"   54 71
Entrance   46
" Europe and Asia "  52 53
Evolution of the Book, The  57
Family, The  69 61
" Pates," Mackay's  70
Pu-st Floor Halls..   53
Floor Plans, First Story   42
Second Story  43
Prom the Capitol  40, 41
Good Administration   59 58
Government  68 59
Graces, The  67
Grand Staircase  50
House Reading-room  7«
Inscriptions-—  65
Librarian's Oflice  59
Lyric Poetry  53 54
McEwen Paintings  54
Main Entrance Hall  51, 70
Main Entrance Hall (Second Floor). 49
Mantel in House Reading-room  56 65
Senate  57 66
Map-room  60
Martiny Sculptures  52

FAGI
Library of Congress (continued),
Maynard Paintings  69
"Minerva"  71 44
Modern Games  67
"Muses," Simmons'  60
North Corridor, Second Story, Main
Entrance Hall    78
Northeast Pavilion.  65
Northwest Pavilion  64
Origin of    45
Pearce Paintings  ' 59
Periodical Reading-room  57
Perry Fountain   50
Perry's Sibyls   63, 67
Philosophy  73 73
Plaques  _.  69
Pompeiian Dancing Girls, Dodge's, 60
Pompeiian Panels   61 68
"Courage".  61 63
"Fortitude"  61 63
"Justice"  -  61 63
"Patriotism"   61 63
Portico   -.. 50
Printers' Marks    61
Racial Heads  -  50
Reading-room   75
Keid Paintings   -  '.'. 62
Representatives' Reading-room  55
Restaurant---  -.-  75
Rotunda Entrance    58
Of Public Reading-room . . 47
Statues  -  73
The. —  72
Sciences, The   -  68
"Seals," Van Ingen's   65
"Seasons," Pratt's   64
Second Story Rooms and Corridors. 60
Senators' Reading-rooni- - -   57
Shirlaw Paintings  -  66
Southeast Pavilion   69
Southwest Pavilion  -  69
Treasures     64
Trophies--    -  62
Van Ingen's Paintings  - - - 71
VedderMosaic, The   -_. 71
Paintings   58
Vestibule  51
Vista, A.---  77
Walker Paintings  -  54 70, 71
War   -   63 64
" War and Peace, " Melcher's  - 63
Lincoln Relics   89
Lincoln Square  -  81
Little Falls of the Potomac   189
Logan, Statue of Gen. John A,  157
Long Bridge    159
Louise Home    153
Luther, Martin   147
McClellan Gate, The   179
McPherson Square   150
McPherson Statue    150
Madison House -    145
Mall, The   - 137
Maltby Building   -  80
Marine Corps     82
MarshallHall   159
Marshall, Statue of Chief Justice John. 39
Massachusetts Avenue  153
Meridian Hill  -  -  156
Memory   183
Metropolitan Club   149
Metropolitan Hotel  87
Mexican Embassy   150
Moran, Thomas     36
Mount Olivet Cemetery  194
Mount Vernon   168
Electric Railway Route to  159
Estate, The   163
Gardens   107
Mansion, The   -- 166 165
Attic 172
BanqueVHaii,"The-'-'."-"-"-".V.".'."."-' 170
Bedrooms  172

204

INDEX.

FAQE
Mount Vernon —The Mansion (continued).
Central Hall   168
Death Chamber  171
Dming-room   169
Interior  --- 168
Library  170
Martha's Room  _  171
Music-room   169
Ontbuildings    167
Room in which General Wash
ington died   170 171
Room in which Martha Wash-
ingtondied  .- 171
Sitting-room  169
Western Front.  167
WestParior   169
River Route to  161
Washington, Old Tomb of  168 164
Washington, Tomb of   164 166
National Fair Grounds  191
National Hotel.  87
National Military Cemetery  182
National Museum, The  133
Costumes     124
Lectures    124
Old Building    125
Personal Relics   124
Pottery   125
Rotunda    124
Naval Hospital.   83
Monument   86
Observatory  188
Navy Department and Museum  82, 102 101
Yard   81
Museum...  82 83
Ordnance Factories....  - 83
Trophies    82
New Hampshire Avenue-   157
Norfolk, Steamboat to---   11
Numbering Currency Notes-  130
Oak Hill Cemetery  -.-  187
Oak Hill    187
Octagon House, The    118
Official Etiquette at the Capital  189
Cabinet Precedence   141
Cabinet Receptions   141
Calling Days  --  142
Card Reception -   139
Dinner Formalities  -  140
Diplomatic Corps, Social Rules in.. 142
Formalities at tbe White House  139
Local Society Features  139
Official Season   139
President's Hours...   141
Public Receptions    140
Reception Ceremony.   140
Rules for Dress  ... 141
Vice-President  141
Old Capitol Prison  -   80
Ordnance Factories  -  82
Palmer, Erastus Dow  -- 27
Patent Office--  --- 110 111
Payne, John Howard  187 184
Peale, Charles Wilson   86
Pennsylvania Avenue  --  - 85
Railroad Station  -- 11
PenBion Office   110 111
Population --    14
Post Office, General-   107, 108
New  107 109
Potomac Elver Excursions  -  - 161
Powell, Wm. H  , 21
Powers, Hiram-   80
Pratt, Bela L   72,73
President's Grounds-   98
Public Carriages   12
Public Printer  113
Railroads and Stations  11
Rawlins, Statue of General  87
Redemptior. Ofiice-.  ,,,  „,..,., 105

FAOE
"Red Top,"   189
Residences, Prominent   149
Blaine House    154
Depew, Chauncey M  -  149
Dewey, Admiral   158
Foraker, Senator J.B.--  153
Grant, Mrs. U. S   154
Hale, Senator Eugene  -  152
Leiter, L. Z., Esq    157
Restaurants   --- — 13
Rhode Island Avenue  --  157
Rock Creek Church   182
Cemetery  182
" Grief "— by St. Gaudens 183
Memorial Statues  183
" Memory "— by Partridge 183
"Payne,"' John Howard,
Monument   187 184
Rogers, Randolph  19
SchefEer.Aiy  28
ScottCircle  153 ,,-,
Scott, Statne of General   164 i iZi
Seventh Street ..-   87 '¦"*''
Seward House, The  -  145
Shops   13
Sixteenth Street  -  -- 152
Smithsonian Institution   121 133
Bureaus  123
Plan and Scope  122
Social Formalities at Official Houses  143
Soldiers' Home--   180
History of   183
St. John's Episcopal Church  - 135
Stanton Square  80
State, Department ot  99 101
State Library and Relics  100
Statues :
Daguerre  -  126
Dupont, Adm. Samuel F.  156
Emancipalion Monument  81
Farragut, Adm. David G  155
Franklin, Benjamin  -- 88
Garfleld, President James A  - 87
Greene, Maj.-Gen. Nathaniel-  - 80
Gross, Dr. S. D    125
Hancock, Gen. Winfield S  87
Henry, Prof. Joseph  --, 121
In the Capitol  27
Jackson, President Andrew  144 145
Lafayette Memorial  -  144
Lincoln, A  -  14,26,81
Logan, John A   157
Luther----  -  147
Marshall, Chief Justice John  39
McPherson, Major-Gen. Jas, B  160 , ,j,~
Scott, Gen. Winfield-   154 \i%^
Rawlins, Major-Gen. John A,  87 '
Thomas, Gen. George H  -  147
Washington, George  16, 26 11
Steamboat Landing   11
Steamboats --     11
Stockton House   149
Stone, Horatio   - 24
Storied Houses  -  -  151
Street Cars  11
Streets, Arrangement of  13
Stuart, Gilbert Charles  30
Suburban Lines -  -  -  --- 12
Suburban Towns   184
Sumner House, The--  146
rpayloe House    145
-*- Tennallytown   -.  189
Theaters--.,   -  - 136
ThomasCircle   147
Thomas, Statue of Gen. Geo. H  147
Toner, J. M..-  45
Treasury, The    102 103
Branches of-    107
Cash Room   105
Currency Destruction Committee.-- 106
Cutting the Sheets  -._ 104
Department  „  ,.,  102 103

INDEX.

205

Treasury, The (continued).
Expert Counting  105
Maceration  106
Paper for Securities  104
Redemption Office   105
Treasury Notes  104
Tunlaw Heights  189
Universities. American    188
Catholic   184
Columbian  148
Howard  180
TTanderlyn, John  21
V Van Ness Mansion, The   118
Venus of Melos  133
Waggaman Gallery, The  131
Walker, James  36
War Department   100 101
Washington Barracks.-   162
Washington Bird's-eye View, looking
east from Washington
Monument  114
Bird's-eye View, looking
north from Washington
Monument   138
Circle    157
Defenses of   179
OldTombof  166 164
Statues of George  ..16,26 11
Tomb of   164 166
Washington's Mansion at Mount
Vernon      166 165
Washington Monument    115 117
Dimensions    115
Grandeur     115
History  _  116

Washington Monument (continued).
Interior    116
Northwestern Outlook   118
Scene Toward the Capitol  118
View Down the Potomac   118
From Arlington 
Prom the Top.  116
Un the'.Potomac   118
Waterworks, of the City  190
Weather Bureau    121
Forecasting  121
Weir, Robert W    21
Wesley Heights  188
White House, or Executive Mansion ...
New  
White House   
Blue Room   94
Cabinet Room     98
Doorkeepers  98
East Room...    94
Egg-rolling   93
Green Room   94
History  91
In Line on a Reception I>ay 
Lafayette Square, from 
North Front.. 
President's Grounds..  _ 93
Office  .   97
Red Room 
South Front   
State Dining-room  97
Washington, Portrait of  
Whitney, Anne  27
Winder Building    102
Willard's Hotel --  -  89
Wirt House, The    --- 150
Woodley Heights-  188

Y.Z

M, C. A.

137

175

91989195

9S

93 9193

96 90

bSlo^cal Park  --  185
Animals  185

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mitting, landings will be made at Bettertou (both ways) dally, and on
Jlondays. Thursdays, and Saturdays (both ways) at Keyliold's Wharf and
Town Point Wharf. Exciii-slnu Tlukct^lo BjiHliui,i-n oi-riiilndolphin, flnltiii $2. .10;
I'liIIjidclphiii to liBtlcrtori, .$2.00. Good for fifteen days. 828 Chestnut St.,
Philadelphia; 204 Light St., and Albert's ticket oflice, 15 N. Ciiarles St.,
Baltimore; In companies' oflices and on steamers. Uates of fare one way
—cabin tickets, si.OO; deck tickets, sl.50; state rooms extra. Heals 50
cents each. Excursion tickets to and from all way landings for sale on
steamers. All way freight must be prepaid. For special excursion raies
. , , „, for parties, clubs, etc., apply at offlce. Addit^lonal charges for berths on
all excursion tickets. Through tickets to Washington, D. C— one way nnd excursion good to return by cltber
boat or rail ; also through tickets to Norfolk, Va., Richmond, Va., and points south Tickets from Washington
at B. & O. ticket ofBces and J. i-plledt's, 607 Pennsylvania Ave.. N. W. Send for iilusti-ated pamphlet to Pier
No. 3, bouth Delaware Ave.. Phlladelpbia, or No. 204 Light St., Baltimore, Md.
Day Boats leave Philadelphia and Baltimore every day, including Sundays, at 7.30 a. m.
Fine new I'ast steamers "Penn" and "Lord Baltimore" arrive ateacbport early same evening. Dleals 50 cents eacli.
Excursion tickets to and from all way landings for saie on steamers. For special excursion rates for pai-tles, clubs,
etc., apply at Pier 3, South Delaware Ave., PMladelphia, or S04 Light Street, Baltimore.

ESTABLISHED IN 1802
Gait & Bro.,
JEWELERS SILVERSMITHSSTATIO]\ERS
1107 PENNSYLVANIA AVE.,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

We are the originators not
only of Washington Souvenir
Spoons, but of Souvenir
Spoons in the United States.
The Article in Appleton's
Encyclopedia, i89i,Vol. XVI,
on "Souvenir Spoons,"
clearly states this fact.
GALT & BRO.

VISI T

SCHMID'S PET EMPORIUM
712 12th Street, N. W., WASHINGTON, D. C.
A FULL LINE OF
BIRDS, RABBITS, GOLDFISH,
PARROTS. SQUIRRELS, SWANS,
CATS. PIGEONS, PEAFOWLS,

DOGS,

INCUBATORS,

Etc.

MONKEYS, FANCY POULTRY,

SEND FOR LARGE FREE 104-PAGE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE.

THE FREDONIA

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.

z K
J(LZK
0 £Ui

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c
0 Dm2 rz

1321-1323 H Street, Northwest, WASHINGTON, D. C.
"the FREDONIA HOTEL, A MODERN HOTEL HOME."
' ' The man without a home of his own will find this Hotel of loo
rooms the next best thing to it. It is centrally located, thoroughly
equipped with every modern appliance, both for comfort and safety,
newly furnished throughout from top to bottom, convenient to all lines
of cars, and is in the midst of many of the city's most prominent points
of interest. It is conducted upon both the American and European
Plans and has a cuisine not excelled by any hostelry in the city."
RATES.
American : One person, $2.00 per day, $ I2 per week, $40 per month
and upward. Two persons, $3.50 per day, $20 per week,
$75 per month and upward.
European : Rooms, one person, $ I per day and upward. Two persons,
' $ 1 .50 per day and upward.
Special Excursion Rates will be quoted to parties of twenty or more
upon application to WM. W. DANENHOWER, Proprietor.

Hotel Buckingham
WE,ST SIDE, McPherson square
Washington, D. C.
Two blocks from Executive Mansion, State, War, Navy, and
Treasury buildings.
HIGH=CLASS TRANSIENT AND FAMILY HOTEL
American plan. Rates, $2.50 to I4.00 per day.

MT VFRMON the Home and Tomb of Washington,
111* f 1^I\1^V/1'!, ARLINGTON, the beautiful National Cemetery,
ALEXANDRIA, Virginia's first Capital,
Are all quickly and conveniently reached on
THE ELECTRIC TRAINS
. . . Of the . . .
Washington, Alexandria & Mt. Yernon Railway Company
station, Pennsylvania Ave. and 13 1-2 St.
The fastest and best equipped electric trains in the world, embracing all improve
ments known to modern science looking to speed, safety, and comfort 
From Nov. 1st to May 1st trains for Mt. Vernon leave ^ Round trip to Mt. Vernon . . . . 75c
hourly from 10 a. m. to a p. m , week-days only, * Round trip tO l*lt. Vernon, including
From May 1st to Nov. 1st trains for Mt. Vernon leave £f Arling'ton  85c
hourly from 10 a, m. to .3 p.m., week days only. Round trip to Arlington .... 20c
For Arlington and Alexandria, see time-tables, "^ Round trip tO /VIexandria . . . 25c

DRINK DELICIOUS! REFRESHING!

ALL SODA FOUNTAINS 5 CENTS PER GLASS

Swett's Fountain Pens ^hese pens are made of the
w T T -w > . .|^gg^ material obtainable, and
are finely finished. We guarantee them in every respect.
No. 2. Fitted with No. 2 14k gold pen— a $2.50 pen . $1.00
No. 3. " " " 3 14'' " " 3.50 " • . 1.50
Sent by mail on receipt of price. Satisfaction or money refunded.
FOUNTAIN PENS REPAIRED
at small cost. Send your old pens for estimate of cost of repairs.
OAVIT'r'T' A f^f^ '"^ '*** Street, N. W.
OWH^l 1 CJ \^\J., WASHINGTON, D. C.

r^^i^a^

CAFE

CORNER E.LEVENTH AND G STREETS, N. W.,
WASHINGTON, D. C.

o H

0

Rooms with Board, $l..-|()t() j-'i ,",0 pt-r day; <.;s In Jl,", pel' lyeck; },'15 to $,50 )iiT nioiitli. Rooms only.
%\ lilKl $1,,50 por day tnr cacli i"a-s(Hi.
1.-4. FK TR.A'.-^ IS a I;kai, Home H.itel, and ds \ crv laaitral locatlnn !,¦< liuicli In \U faynr.
As a (jinrr ami rrsi inl slopiiins [dare it has ii;\y )l\als in any city. Ladies iraytdiiii^ alitne,
and ppvsnns iv.'ary wdh iMi-in.-ss taiies or litrrary lyork, fiinl tl,i« ro/.y hotel all that could
he desired at I lie vpiy mndi'ra'r ratc^ chari-'cd. Tla- lalile Is excellent,
E. S. LA FETRA, Proprietor.

HANDY GUIDE
'TO NEW YORK CITY.
\ PRICE, 25o. 

HERALD SQUARE New Y k City

BROCK'S
CONGRESSIONAL HOTEL
New Jersey Ave. and B St. S. E.
Washing-ton, D. C.
Situated near the Capitol and Library.
Guests accommodated with delightful,
airy, and well ventilated rooms. Cars
from all railroad depots pass in front
of this hotel. HENRY BROCK, Proprietor.

The ARDMORE
13th Street,
Between Pennsylvania Ave. and F St., N. W.
WASHINGTON, D. C.
Family Hotel, central location. A pleasant home
for tourists and sightseers.
PURE SPRING WATER USED.
European plan, $i and up ; American plan, $1.50
to $2.50. No liquors.
T. M. HALL, Proprietor.

Handy Guides
New York City
Boston Philadelphia Hudson River and
Catskill Mountains
Southeastern States

Price of each Guide 25 cents

Rand. McNally & Co.

Chicago

New YopK

American. $2.50 to $4.00 per Day
European, $1.00 and Upward

The
Bancroft

COR. 18TH AND
H STREETS, N. W.,
WASHINGTON, D. C.
a»
Strictly Fire-proof and Entirely New.
Rooms Single and en Suite
with Private Baths
J-
W. L. SHEPARD, Prop.

GOING TO BOSTON
TRY THE
AMERICAN HOUSE
Hanover St., near Scollay Square Station of Subway.
FROM SOUTH STATION take any Federal Street car, stopping Washington
Street, corner Elm.
FROM' NORTH STATION take any Subway car leaving at Scollay Square.
Leave surface cars Washington Street, corner Hanover.

Situated in the business portion of the city, the house is convenient to the his
torical places of interest, shopping district, amusements, steamboat lines, etc.
European Plan, $1.00 per day and upwards. Table d'Hote Dinner, 50 cents.
Special Vrealifast, 40 cents.

A. C. JONES, Manager.

C. A. JONES, Proprietor.

Colonial Hotel

I5TH AND H STREETS, N. W.,
WASHINGTON, D. C.
High=Class Transient
and Family Hotel
AMERICAN AND
EUROPEAN PLAN

Only one block from White House,
Treasury, State, War, and Navy
departments. E. C. BENSON,
Proprietor.

The Hotel Barton
(FORMERLY WELCKER'S)
WASHINGTON, D. C.
The Barton Company^ Props.
(incorporated) *
W. H. NELSON, Mgp.
Telephone Main 1801

FIFTEENTH STREET
Near U. S. Treasury
This hotel has been remodeled,
refurnished, and redecorated.
Modern open plumbing'.
Practically a new house.
Specialties :
Table d'Hote Dinners with wine;
Ladies' and Gents' Luncheons
and After Theater Suppers;
Elegant Turkish, Moorish, and
Palm Dining- Rooms.

A Strictly Modern House

Murphy's Hotel
EUROPEAN PLAN
JOHN IMURPHY
Owner & ProprietOi-
Richmond, Va.

THE MAJESTIC
ATLANTA. GA.
APARTMENT HOTEL
Ralph Van Landingham,
MANAGER.

Entire construction
absolutely fireproof
On fashionable
Peachtree Street
Opposite
Capitol City Club
and Governor's
Mansion Caters only to
the "Best

GREEN'S HOTEL
Corner Eighth and Chestnut Sts.,
Philadelphia, Pa,

FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.

EUROPEAN PLAN.

315 Rooms at $1.00 and $1.50 per Day and Upwards.
60 New Rooms with Bath Attached.

FINEST RESTAURANT IN
PHILADELPHIA.

ALL MODERN CONVENIENCES.
TELEPHONE IN EVERY ROOM.

Table d'Hote Dinner 50 cents, from 12 m. to 8 p. m.
MUSIC BY PROFESSOR MEYER'S ORCHESTRA.

Eighth and Chestnut Street Trolley Cars pass the Hotel at the
Rate of Three per Mmute to all Paris of the City.

This hotel is centrally located, and in the very heart of the city, being but
one square from the Postoffice, Strawbridge & Clothier's, Lit Brothers, and op
posite Gimbel Brothers, and Partridge & Richardson, and
easy of access to all Theaters, Railway Stations, Public
Buildings, and Points of Interest.

MAHLON W. NEWTON,
Tix,
Celebrated Angora Cat Proprietor.
of Green's Hotel

The Walter Sanitarium
Walters Park, near Reading, Pa.
IN the mountains of Southeastern
Pennsylvania, less than two hours
from Reading Terminal, Philadelphia,
four hours from New York, without
change.
^% Wattti and ^cetter^ Seldom ^qualeti.
BUILDINGS OF GRANITE ROCK, 320 FEET FRONT, FIVE STORIES IN HEIGHT.

HTHE Original Massage Institution, erected, owned, and
managed by its founder, who has given forty-five years
to the study and practice of sanatory methods, fifteen years
as a supposed incurable invalid, and thirty years as a
practitioner who first healed himself.

^at!)g, iilagsap

, gjtoeUtBf) ;P:oi)tmtntEf, «Elettrttttj>, |)pg;icnii
Dictacp, 3Dairp, Ittoerp.

TERMS VERY iVlODERATE. Send for Illustrated Catalogue.
jiddress ROBT. WALTER, M. D.,
WALTERS PARK, PA.

The Ten E.yck
ALBANY, N. Y.
Positively Fireproof
EUROPEAN PLAN
Most attractive hotel
in New York State
A delightful home for those wishing to spend some time
in this "interesting and historic city"
: : : ORCHESTRAL MUSIC DURING EVENING DINNER : : :
Convenient to STATE CAPITOL, other Public Buildings and
Places of Interest.
H. J. ROCKWE^LL & SON.

P^^S^^^^^PVOS^SS^?^'"'?^

M'y,. ...-^f^yy:':::'.^.

M'/^, . .: .^•^-¦, ¦ '.W^/,. . .

'"^ .^T/,
-¦^M
...«
r4
^^
'"m
Hotel 'Belleclaire
BROADWAY AND 77TH STREET
NEW YORK CITY
Luxuriously Furnished Rooms for permanent and transient
guests at moderate prices.
Orchestra of Solo Players 6 p m. till i a. m.
Restaurant, Palm Room, and Cafe, gems of artistic perfection.
Cuisine and service really delightful. You will say so.
^f^ROOF
In ifrPj^
Iq ^^g^
f ^r f. ^- •
if-"
rrr
rrrrirjiill rf n-'«
y4 special feature is our "jifter theater Suppers."
yl "Billiard Parlor for Ladies is another pleasant feature.
Original with the Belleclaire is the
Refined Vaudeville eVery Thursday Evening
Our gallery of beautiful paintings, valued at $50,000, is open evenings
to visitors.
Jlffability and courtesy guaranteed from eVery "Belleclaire
employe. flIJLTON ROB LEE, Proprietor.
m.
^yy.
15
Coming to Washington ?
WRITE FOR BOOKLET.
POTOMAC HOTEL CO., Proprietors
17th and H streets, N. W., WASHINGTON, D. C.

Conveniently accessible
by short walks, and
car lines passing the
doors, to all public
buildings and theaters,
business streets, railway
stations, steamboat
docks, suburbs, and
points of interest.

"' The Albany
Appointments and Cuisine
First=class
Correspondence Solicited.

Booklets.

The
Everett

000000000

0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0

WASHINGTON, D. C.
TO
NEW YORK

WITH OPPORTUNITY TO VISIT

OLD POINT COMFORT
(FORT MONROE)
VIA THE SUPERB STEAMERS OF THE
Norfolk & Washington (D. C.) Steamboat Co.
AND THE
Old Dominion Line
STEAMERS LEAVE FOOT OF SEVENTH ST.,
WASHINGTON, D. C, DAILY
Passengers from Washington will make connec
tions with Old Dominion ships at Norfolk, daily ex
cept Sunday, sailing at 7 p. m., and leaving Old
Point Comfort (by annex steamer) on sailing days.
Tickets, staterooms, and full information can be obtained at the General
Ticket Office of NorfolX & Washington Steamboat Co.. Bond Build
ing, 14th Street and New York Avenue, and at Company's Offices, 7th
Street Wharf ; also at the C. & O. Ry. Co.'s Office, 513 Pennsylvania Avenue,
Washington, D. C.

a 0 ts

j^ 0 iS

j3 a a

0 n ^

H. B. fVALKER.
Vice-President and Traffic Mgr.
Old Dominion S. S. Co.,
New York.

JOHN CALLAHAN,
Gen'l Mgr. Norfolk & Washington S. B. Co.,
Washington, D. C.

JAMES L.NORRIS

ESTABLISHED 1869.

Ions' Distance and Local Telephone
Member of the Patent Law Association. Counselor in
Patent Causes
Solicitor of American
d Foreign Patents

an

In active practice over thirty years.

Norris Office Bldg., erected in 1880

PATENTS

Cor. F and Fifth sts., N.W.
Washington, D. C.

Information as to requirements and costs for securing Letters Patent on Inven
tions, Caveats, Trade-Marks, etc., sent free in pamphlet on request, it naming some
of my clients in every State.
Letters Patent procured in the United States and Foreign Countries ; Trade-
Mark, Label, Caveat, and Copyright protection secured.
Searches made and opinions given as to the validity and infringement of Letters
Patent.

SPECIAL REFERENCES

National Bank of Washington, Wasliington,D.C.
L. Boyer's Sons, New York City.
Metallic Cap Manufacturing Co., New York City.
The jEolian Company, New York City.
The Babcock & Willcox Co., New York City.
W. C. Prather Coffee Co., New York City.
Hardsocg Manufacturing Co., Ottumwa, Iowa.
What Cheer Drill & Miners' Tool Co., What
Cheer, Iowa.
Athol Machine Co., Athol, Mass.
Anchor Hosiery Mills, Cohoes, N. Y.
Gary Safe Co., Buffalo, N. Y.
Columbia Carriage Co., Hamilton, Ohio.
Buckeye Iron & Brass Works, Dayton, Ohio.
Keating Implement & Mach. Co., Dallas, Tex.
The Murray Co., Dallas, Tex.
Paris Medicine Co., Asheville, N. C.
The Cudahy Packing Co., South Omaha, Neb.
The Knickerbocker Co., Jackson, Mich., and
St. Louis, Mo.
Seneca Glass Co., Morgantown, W. Va.
The Mitchell-Parks Mfg. Co., St. Louis, Mo.
Albany Perforated Wrapping Co., Albany,N. Y.
Anchor Supply Co., Evansville, Ind.
Baltimore Badge & Novelty Co., Baltimore, Md.
James S. Barron & Co., New York City.
Christman & Son, New York City.

Geo. W. Dunbar's Sons, New Orleans, La.
Dolphin Paint Co., Portsmouth, Va.
Gem City Stove Co., Quincy, 111.
Miles & Gorman, Att'ys-at-Law, Baltimore, Md.
International Text Book Co., Scranton, Pa.
E. D. Jones' Sons & Co., Pittsfield, Mass.
The Robinson Manufacturing Co., Muncy, Pa.
Louisville Tin & Stove Co., Louisville, Ky.
LibbeEngineering&ConstructionCo.,Toledo,0. Lake Torpedo Boat Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
Miller-Hubbard Mfg. Co., Sturgis, Mich.
Mobile Spring Bed Co., Mobile, Ala.
Morgantown Foundry & Machine Co., Morgan-
town, W. Va.
Muncie Gas Engine & Supply Co., Muncie, Ind.
Peyton Chemical Works, San Francisco, Cal.
Parke, Davis & Co. , Detroit, Mich.
Robert Portner Brewing Co., Alexandria, Va.
The Piso Company, Warren, Pa.
Rochester Optical & Camera Co. ,Rochester,N. Y.
Schwarz, Schiffer & Co., New York City.
Standard Oiled Clothing Co., New York City.
Technical Supply Co., Scranton, Pa.
The Castotype Co., Chicago, 111.
Vacuum Dyeing Mach. Co., Chattanooga, Tenn.
Wallace Supply Co., Chicago, 111.
West Virginia Steel Co., Wheeling. W. Va.

Thousand Island House

LXANDRIA BAY, N. Y.
PLES,

ce, ne 20

Owners and Proprietors
J. B. Stetson, care of
Herald *»quare H'>tel

The Best of AH— The Infant's Friend.
AN OLD AND WELL-TRIED REMEDY.

O
6
00

oeno 00

1840-1904. Over Sixty Years.
Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup.

•«:-t:^-:-v^' ¦¦ -'y^- -'y^-.-v^' ^?^??^ ?????? ¦#"'

.^

I SOUTHERN RAILWAY |

'^

Washington & Florida Limited

New York & Atlanta Express

Washington & Southwestern Limited

ing through sleepers to Asheville, Knoxville, Chattanooga, Nash-

5|^ ' For information as to rates, tickets, schedules, and sleeping car reservations, apply

it

4^ Leaving Washington 10.51 a.m., daily. Through sleepers and .
% coaches to Columbia, Savannah, and Jacksonville. Connection for ^p
^' Aiken, S. C. Connection at Jessup, Ga., for Brunswick and Jekyl m^^
%^ Island, and at Jacksonville for St. Petersburg and Punta Gorda, ^^
^'' Fla. Dining car service. |^ ^
^ United States Fast Mail C
^ Leaving Washington 11. 15 a. m., daily. Through sleepers and ||
^^ coachesto Atlanta, Montgomery, Mobile, and New Orleans. Dining ^ "^
J$ car service. ^~
It ; H

¦m

0i I\If»\x7 Ynrlr Xr A 1-1 an fa pYnrf^ss '^

%.

i:^ Leaving Washington 7.10 p.m., daily. Through sleepers and ^^
|#j::d coaches to Atlanta. Also tri-weekly tourist sleeper to San Francisco, ^^^
life Cal., leaving Washington each Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. ^ jl.

W%

% New York & Florida Express -J^'
r^ Leaving Washington 9.50 p. m., daily. Through sleepers to '0
\-^'. Columbia, Augusta, Savannah, and Jacksonville; through coaches |^
.^ ^ to Columbia, Savannah, and Jacksonville. Connection for Aiken, ^ "^
J% S. C. Dining car service. ^"^
i|i Washington & Chattanooga Limited r^^^
•i|^ Leaving Washington 10.00 p. m., daily. Through sleepers and j,^
^ '' coaches (via Lynchburg and Bristol) to Knoxville, Chattanooga, ^^^
^^ Memphis, Birmingham, and New Orleans. Dining car service. ^ ^

^%

Leaving Washington 10.45 p. M., daily. Solid Pullman train, carry- "^

rf

r

^^ ville, Atlanta, Macon, Birmingham, Memphis, Montgomery, Mobile, ^%
^ !^ and New Orleans. Club and observation cars. Dining car service ^^
^ DINING CAR SERVICE UNEXCELLED !5i
% ¦  ^

B

%..

^^%^ to any representative of Passenger Department, Southern Railway, or "¦ "^
1^-.' L. S. BROWN, General Agent, |('
[M 705 Fifteenth Street, N. W. WASHINGTON, D. C. ,, M
^ C. H. ACKERT, Gen'l Manager. S. H. HARDWICK, Gen'l Pass'r Agent. #'
%J ^%
'¦'Jf^~'"-W "y^' .'^-i^"'"-'-^ 'ia^^ ^SK*-" '¦'m'' '¦'¦fji^ '¦w %'' w 'y^^- 'y^^ '«> '^. -'^.- '^^

Chesapeake & Ohio Route
An Up-to-Date Railway following an Historic Trail
1*x-oxxx tlxe JF'otoaaa.a.o ^md t3a.e
Cli.eisa.i3e^,li.e to t33.e Olilo ¦ . ¦ ¦
Through the Grandest Scenery in the Eastern States.

HIGH -CLASS SERVICE BETWEEN New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washing
ton, Norfolk, Old Point, Newport News, Richmond, Virginia Hot Springs, and other
Mountain Resorts, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, Chicago, West and Southwest.
SCENIC ROUTE TO LOUISIANA PURCHASE EXPOSITION.

VIRGINIA

8,500 feet elevation in the Virginia mountains, where
the Climate, Waters, Baths, Hotels, and Scenery have
no equal in America. Rheumatism, gout, obesity, and
nervous troubles cured. New Golf Club House with
Squash Court, Lounging Rooms, Cafe, Ping-Pong, etc.
Fine Golf Course, Tennis Courts, Pleasure Pool, Excellent Livery, and All Outdoor Pastimes.

HOT SPRINGS

"i

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M
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THE NEW, HOMESTEAD..
Unquestionably the finest all-year-round resort hotel in America. Modern in the strictest sense, con
ducted on the broadest lines, and patronized by the highest class. Brokers' offlce with direct New York wire.
THE CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RAILWAY has direct connection for Virginia Hot Springs from the principal
cities of the Union. Compartment Car from New York without change.
Excursion tickets and Pullman reservations at C. & O. ofBces, 362 and 1354 Broadway, New York,
Cincinnati, Louisville, and Washington, Big Four Offlces, St. Louis and Chicago, and at principal offlces
of connecting lines throughout the country.
Hotel rates, bookings, and specific information on application to FRED STERRY, Manager, Hot
Springs, Va.
For pamphlets and general information as to route, rates, and service, address H. W. FULLER,
G. P. A., Washington, D. C.
Dark
Room Free for
Amateurs

FILMS and
PLATES

Developing and
Printing Papers
of all makes

KODAKSFOR HIRE.
50 cents per day

Special to Visitors ~ Amateur photog
raphers visiting Washington are invitee
to make this their headquarters. Profes
sional photographers in attendance, who will
be pleased to show a full series of \-iews of the
city, and suggest the time and best position ti
get the finest results. Instruction .c,-iven gratis.
Postal cards of actresses, comic and art studies,
American cities, and all places of interest.

For Location see J\Iop on J^ext Page

PHOTOGRAPHER
AND PUBLISHER OP

J. F. JARVIS
IMPORTER AND DEALER IN
Souoenirs of lUasDinston ^ ^ E W S
135 Pennsylvania Avenue, one biock from capitoi.

ESTABLISHED
1875...

visitors 10 WaSnillslOll established and extensive whole
sale and retail SOUVENIR EMPORIUM. Here they will find the most
complete assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, VIEWS, and SOUVENIRS
of all descriptions.  ' — ,

lt>o^
a
ST*TC MOWSt-v ^'«-P*W'"p,.*gV,'-«fflrfiSJ I— — I "-J 1_*JUUM  1 |  n  ^oarTi i__j ir^-.^v.-V: I I— J I ._>OL— J (^\.y — ^^ 1 -Stf:/ [t _ ^
SQD nmr^ qa^„o osa q wsi
n ULJ Drra czaciri^-Cib
..-.•.'¦TVt
wA&HINGfOU .'-' '
N'MATl'iiHAtii |.;7, .--
¦-'iMUSEUM ,yv.^i;
r:iSv^^[7Z]
?
^,
^Sfis)„p]ri''RSDDa^'l^r^^'^rTm^r
JAMES L. NORRIS

ESTABLISHED 1869.

Member of the Patent Law Association.
Patent Causes

Norris Office Bldg. , erected in 1880

Long Distance and Local Telephone _^  ^
Solicitor of AmencSii
and Foreign Patents
In active practice over thirty years.
D A T r M TO *^"''- ^ *"•' ^'^^^^ s*S' "• *•
tn I L 11 I O Washington, D. C.

Itiformation as to requirements and costs for securing Letters Patent on Inven
tions, Caveats, Trade-Marks, etc., sent free in pamphlet on request, it naming some
,cf my -clients in every "State.
"^"^ Letters Patent procured in the United States and Foreign Countries ; Trader
-Mark, Label, Caveat, and, Copyright protection seciired.
- Searches made and opinions given as to the validity and infringement of Letters
Pa;tenf.

SPECIAL REFERENCES

National Bank of Washington, Washington, D.C.
The Monoline Composing Co., Washington, D. C. ,
and New York City, N.- Y.
The Babcock & Willcox Co., New York City.
The Colliery Engineer Co., Scranton, Pa.
The Star Incubator & Brooder Co., Bound
Brook, N. J.
The Cudahy Packing Co., South Omaha, Neb.
The Knickerbocker Co., Jackson, Mich., and
St. Louis, Mo.
The Tasteless Quinine Co., Asheville, N. C.
The Howells Mining Drill Co.i Plymouth, Pa.
The White Mt. Freezer Co., Nashua, N. H.
The Kinnear Manufacturing Co., Warren, Pa.
The Carter Manufacturing Co,, Louisville, L^.
The Continental Gin Co., Birmingham, 'Ala.
The Turner Machine Co., Danbury, Conn.
Hardsocg Manufacturing Co., Ottumwa, Iowa,
What Cheer Drill & Miners' Topi Co., What
Cheer, Iowa.
Athol Machine Co., Athol, Mass.
L. Boyer's Sons, New York City. ; .
Metallic Cap Manufacturing Co., New York City.
Cary Safe Co., Buffalo, N. Y.
Columbia Carriag&Co., Hamilton, Ohio.
Buckeye Iron & Brass Works, Dayton, Ohio.
Jackson & Sharp Co., Wilmington, Del.
Keating Implement & Mach. Co., Dallas; Tex.
The Foster Engineering Co., Newark, N, J,
'— SEE INSIDE PAGE.

The Canadian Composing Co. .Montreal, Canada
Seneca Glass Co., Morgantown, W. Va.
American Broom & Brush Co., Amsterdam,
N. Y.
Boss Knitting Machine Works, Reading, Pa.
Essmueller-Heyde Mill Furnish'g Co., St. Louis,

l-\

Mo.
Epworth Gas Light & Heating Co., Waterloo,
Icwa.
Globe Ticket Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
Gray & Dudley'Hardware Co., Nashville, Tenn.
The Mitchell-Parks Mfg. Co., St. Louis, Mo.
Detroit Emery Wheel Co., Detroit, Mich.
Howell, Davies Coal Co., Louisville, Ky.
Advance Thresher Co., Battle Creek, Mich.
Burrough Bros. Mfg. Co., Baltimore, Md.
Cheatham Electric Switching Device Co., Louis
ville, Ky. "
The Murray Co., Dallas, Tex.
Geo. W. Dunbar's Sons, New Orleans, La.
J. A. Kelly & Bros., Clinton, Iowa.
The Poster Engineering Co., Trenton, N. J.
The Bodley Wagon Co., Memphis, Tenn.
The jEolian Company, New York City.
Albany Perforated Wrapping Co., Albany,N.Y.
Anchor Supply Co., Evansville, Ind.
Baltimore Badge & Novelty Co., Baltimore, Md.
James S. Barron & Co., New York City.
Christman & Son, New York City.

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