"I give thtfe Boota _ ;£ 'fur^ tie fo^a&^if ':a- GeUege in this Colonf ' • ILEIBIBiMSrar • BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE Ann S. Farnam Fund wrwjpww.rwf. %-Q VOYAGE T O CHINA AND THE EAST INDIES, By P E T E Ii. O, S B E C K, Rector of Hasloef and Woxtorp, Member of the Academy of Stockholm, and of the Society of Ufsal, Together with A VOYAGE TO SURATTK, By OLOF TOREEN, Chaplain of the Gothic Lion East Indi amah. and An Account of the CHINESE HUSBANDRY, By Captain CHARLES GUSTAVUS ECKEBERG. Tran-flated from the GermaNi By JOHNREINHOLDFORSTER, F.A.S. To which are added, A Faunula and Flora Sinensis. IN TWO VOLUMES. V G L. I. LONDON, .Printed for BENJAMIN WHITE, at Horace's Head, in Fleet-ftreet. M DCC LXXI. T'tt&MkS PENNANT, Efq-, O F fiOVtNING, in Ftl&TSH-lRE. Dear Ser,* TH E pecuKai* obligations- your good- nefe has laid me under, have left me no1 room f-o hefitate one moment iiv she ehoke of a patron- for this publica tion.' ' Tftis Wotfk wa« uhderta-kerr with- your Approbation; enriched by you with many important additions,* arid' has- often- been the iubje$: of our conveifationv But my obligations' t& you- a-fe rioC confined to theaffiftance you have afford ed me in this prefent work : by your fa-' v©ur,, I> who was an utter ilrangcr to: &> 2r this' [ " ] this country, have been introduced to a number of munificent and worthy friends, whofe acquaintance is both my honour and my happinefs. The fimilitude of our ftudies was what firil recommended me to your no tice ; but your humanity was engaged to receive me to a nearer intimacy from a circumilance, which too frequently would have been the caufe of negledt : the diilrefles I labour under affe&ed your heart, and excited you to remove them in a molt tender and benevolent manner. Having no other way to exprefs the itrong impreffions it has made on me, I beg leave to prefix your name to thefe Voyages ; and thus publicly to acknow ledge your great and moll ieafonable fa vours. But I will fay ,no more on this fubjecl: ; well knowing, that thanks are Often leail pleafing where they are moil due. Permit me, however, to offer up the moil (incere and earneil wiihes of a 4 grateful [v] grateful heart for your happinefs. May you and your family long enjoy, in full meafure, all the bleilings of life ; anal may thefe be heightened by the continu ance of every intellectual and moral pleafure. And while you are diilin- guiihed even amongit foreigners, as a patron and promoter of learning, eipe- cially of natural hillory ; may you con tinue to have in your own country the honour and pleafure of being a father to the afflicted and rieceffitous. I am, with the trueil regard, Dear Sir, Your moil obedient humble fervant, Warrington, Dec. i, 1770. John Reinholp Forster. THE ¦^¥»i iwm i»m» THE EDITOR'S PREFACE. TO a nation fo enlightened, as the Englifh, the following tranflation can hardly be unacceptable, and therefore I might well have been excufed the common appen dage of a preface j but as there are many particulars relative to the author, which may .contribute to itamp a value on this work, I fhall briefly ftate them without any farther apo- The author, Mr. Osbeck, chaplain to an Eajl India ihip of Sweden (his natjye country), was viii EDITOR'S PREFACE. .was a pupil of the great Linn^us, whofe name alone is a fufEcient encomium. He fol lowed punctually and literally the rules pre ferred by his excellent tutor in his Inftruftio Eeregrinatoris. Nothing efcaped the atten tion of Mr. Osbeck. The hiftory, the anti quities, the religion, the manners, the drefs, the ch.araft.er, the policy, the government, the military and civil eflablifhments of the coun try, were equally obje&s of his attention ; and what is very remarkable, and will of courfe prejudice this nation in favour of our author, is., that we find the judgment of Lord Anson about the Chinefe confirmed and juftified in his obferyations on the chara&er of that na tion. The merchant will find a minute and ac curate account of many commodities brought from the Eaft, with an exaft delineation of the whole commerce of China. The cecono- mift and hufbandraan will find many ufefui and agreeable remarks in Mr. Osbeck's and Mr. Eckeberg's accounts, which might be confjderedas good hints even in this country, where EDTTOR'S PREFACE. IK where agriculture' and hufbandry have been' improved b'oth in theory and in practice, to the great emolument of the inhabitants; while many fa&s here related are applicable to' the Englifh colonies and plantations; In fhort, the reader will find many remarks in the co'urfe of this work, that will affift him in the ftudy 6f medicine, hiftory, geography, and" almof! every other branch of learning < But the natural hiflorian will find the fichefl treafures in this u'feful performance ; and as a tafte for this branch of knowledge begins very juftly to attract the attention of this nation, and to fpread fo univerfally that it even finds the protection of perfons of the higheft quality, and the patronage of the fairer fex : I thought iriy'leifure hours could- not be better bellowed, than on a trariflation of a Work of fo general utility. Hasselquist's journey to Egypt and Ed' lejline has very defervedly had the approba tion of the nation, in its Englifh drefs ; and confirmed the high opinion which the public Vol. I. b had x EDITOR'S PREFACE. had before conceived of Profeffor Linnaeus and his pupils; and it may be hoped, this per formance will recommend itfelf equally to the reader, from the uncommon variety of obje&s defcribed, and the ufefulnefs of the author's remarks. A worix or two I mnft fay in regard to the tranflation, which is made from the German, and not from the original Swedifl}; but as Mr. Osbeck not only revifed the German tranfla tion, but al fo made fome additions to it which are not found in the original Swedifh edition, it is rather an advantage to the work than a prejudice. It was tranQated into German by Mr. J. Godlieb Georgi, under the direc tion of Dr. Daniel Schreber % who both underftqod the Swediflo language perfectly well, having ftadied at Upfal for many years. The latter was a pupil and friend of Lin- n^us, and well known for many ufeful pub lications in ceconomy, hufbandry, and natural a Dr. Schreber has enriched this work with feveral re marks, which are marked at the end with L>. S. and thoft ot the editor with" an F. hiftory. EDITOR'S PREFACE. xi •hiftory, and particularly a botanical and ceco- nomical defcription of graffes b. As I have met with great encouragement and generous affiftance in the tranflation of this work, from many gentlemen of great worth, whofe names would be an ornament, was I permitted to mention them ; I take this opportunity to acknowledge in a public man ner the great obligations I feel myfelf under ; and that the remembrance of them will not be obliterated, but will ever fill my heart with the waYmeft fentiments of gratitude. b The firft part of this work, already publifhed, contains twenty coloured plate9, and twenty-feven different graffes, with a large introduction to the fludy of this branch of botany : and very accurate defcriptions of each kind, to gether with remarks on the cultivation, ufes, and foil pro per for each fpecies. b 2 PREFACE [ xiii 3 PREFACE O F Mr. O S B E C K. IN the year 1750 I was chofen by the Swedijh Eaji India company, to perform &e functions of a chaplain to a ihip going to the Eajl Indies ; that is, to read prayers irs the morning and evening, to eonfefs the peo ple, to adminifter the Lord's fupper, to cate- chife, to vifit the fick, to bury the dead, and to preach on Sundays and Holidays* So tedious a voyage required fome amufe* ment : during all intermiffions from our ordi- Vol. I, c Eary xiv AUTHORS PREFACE. nary bufinefs. Every one chofe fomething adapted to his tafte ; for my part I found no thing that could entertain more innocently both myfelf during the voyage, and my friends after my return, than natural hiftory. The inftru&ion I drew from the lectures which I had attended in this fcience at Upfal, obliged me to be grateful. I returned with out any money ; more of which I could have employed during my voyage in the gratifica tion of my thirfl after knowledge : for I knew that to fo learned a man, as Linnaeus, I could no how exprefs my obligations fo well as by fpecimens of natural hiftory. I kept for my own amufement a journal of every thing worthy of obfervation during my voyage; from this I gave him fome descriptions of new plants found in Spain, China, and other places, which were immediately incor porated into that capital botanical book .then printing under the title of Species Elantarum, and with which my names of plants agree c. c The author's animals are alfo admitted into the Syflema Natura, edit. 1 1; and where Linn, thought proper to alter the genus, his names are quoted a3 fynonyms. In AUTHOR'S PREFACE, xv In his letters from time to time he put me in mind of publifhing the account of my voyage; but I always oppofed it, as believing that fuch defcriptions could only pleafe naturalifts, or lovers of natural hiftory ; but all my objec tions were furmounted by the advice of other learned men, and efpecially by the order of a great perfonage, for whom I fhall always re tain the greateft deference. The following fheets however ought to be confidered as writ ten at firft merely for my own amufement. During the courfe of our voyage, I obferv- ed the latitude at all opportunities^ and have fo defcribed feveral fifh and birds, that if they Ihould occur to others they may be known by them though they had never feen them be fore. Some which I have only feen at a dift- ance, J have (till further examination) only mentioned under the name which the failors generally give them in the latitude, where they either ftay for a feafon or throughout the whole year. I have remarked fwallows and other birds when they approached our fhip, that by a variety of obfervations of that kind, c 2 we xvi AUTHOR'S PREFACE. we may become better acquainted with the hiftory of their migrations. During my ftay in China and other foreign places, I have been exceedingly attentive- to the exterior afpeft of the inhabitants, their drefs, cuftoms, religion, manner of fubfiftance, trade, &c. but efpecially to the condition of the country, the foil, the quadrupeds, amphi bia, fifh, birds, infects ; likewife the trees, herbs, plants, feeds, &c. of which I have brought a good many with me. Moft new plants and other natural bodies I have de- fcribed in Latin d, that foreigners might like- wife avail themfelves of thefe defcriptions: but fome few run in my mother tongue, on account of thofc who underftand no other. I have mi nuted the particular fpot in which I found every plant, fuch as plain, mountain, valley, whether in ihade, &c. becaufe an ignorance of fuch circumftances frequently fruftrates the la bour and expence ufed in the cultivation of fo reign plants. d In the German tranflation thefe defcriptions are not, in Latin, for which reafon I have tranflated them into Englifh. I HAVE AUTHOR'S PREFACE, xvii 1 have fliewn, that mofli foreign nations, and efpecially the Chinefe, live for the greateft part on fruits, roots, and plants, and that they cultivate fuch plants in their marihes, as will not fucceed in other places : we might alfo find fufficient provifion among our own fpon- taneous plant's. The Chinefe inftrucl: their children in a religion both irrational and pa gan, yet the principal objefts of their educa tion are morality and oeconomy. In fome places I have' taken notice of things not uncommon in Sweden; which are how ever worthy of remark, becaufe they are found in fuch diftant climates, where every thing elfe is different : from hence we might at leaft draw fome ufeful conclufions. We are ufed to afk what a thing is good for ? And often rafhly think, that alone ufe ful, which ferves for medicine, cloaths, and food : as if the eye had no claim to its gratifi cations, and as if what is agreeable was not fonnecTed with what is ufeful. The drefles and xviii AUTHOR'S PREFACE. and utenfils of diftant countries are admired and carefully collected; why ihould not then the works of the Creator deferve at leaft an equal degree of attention I i The obfervations which I have made in fe- veral places, efpecially fuch as were much fre quented, are fhort and inartificial : and it will appear from my ftile, in how languid a man ner the pen performs its office amidft the fcorching heat of the Chinefe ihores, where, to avoid the fufpicion of the people, I frequently wrote with my hand in my pocket, on a pocket book. Let every reader confider my fituation, and apply the cafe to himfelf. The hurry of the prefs has excluded fome additions ? which I intended to have made. I only wifh that my ' obfervations may pro cure half as much approbation from the world, as they have coft me trouble and attention. I ventured on fhore at the ifland of Java, where the woods are filled with tigers and cro codiles ; and hazarded my life in China ; (where e Thefe additions were inferred by Mr. Ofbeck himfelf in the German tranflation, which is here followed. 7 the AUTHOR'S PREFACE, xix the heat of the fun on barren hills, robbers on the roads, and petulant children in back ftreets, are continually annoying a foreigner); and landed on the ifland of Afcenjion, where the fun hatches the eggs of the tortoifes, and in a ihort time ruins the conftitution of' the moft healthy. On the whole, however, I have no reafon to be forry for my voyage, from the kind reception with which the directors of the Eaft India company have honoured me on my return : the fame year they gave me leave to go on a fecond voyage, which fome interven ing bbftacles obliged me to lay afide. I have added the letters of the late chap lain of the Gothic Lion, Mr. Tortt'W, to my jour nal. This perfon died foon after his return from Suratte; but deferves always to be re membered by his friends, on account of his learning and integrity. Other Swedes (defir- ous of extending knowledge) are ready alfo to publifh accounts of their travels, would but the affluent give encouragement to thofe who endeavour to be ufeful to the public on thejr voyages, by promoting difcoveries in natural hiftory xx AUTHOR'S PREFACE. hiftory or ceconorny. But for this purpose cxpenfive books are required, and money is very neceflary for the voyage ; on proper oc- cafions, I have expended not only my falary, but the voluntary contributions of my protec tors, whofe munificence will always make the deepeft impreffion on my mind. Stochholmey 25th of April, 1757. t 1 1 PETER OSBECK'S VOYAGE to CHINA. — - — - — i — . ..m f. ¦¦¦¦»— i ¦¦¦¦¦ ##*W»twlnw# GOTHENB' URGH. North latitude, 570 42'; and 6° weft longi tude from Upfal. The year 1750. November the 18th. FROM Gothenburgh (where the Swedifh Eaft India Company's ihips are fitted out, and to which place they have always return ed, ever fince the year 1731, when they ob tained the firft charter for carrying on this Vol. I, B trade) 2 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. trade) I went to Vargoe Uoala, in very bad weather, the place where the Eaft India fhips ufually anchor, when Riff and Feol, and the other creeks in the Gothenburgh rocks, are filled with ice ; by which means they avoid the inconvenience of fawing the ice in order to clear their paffage. The above place, which derives its name from the Ifle of Vargoe, or the Ifle of Wolves, is a Swedifh milea and a half from Gothenburgh. I made this journey by land as far as Hinfholm, and there went on board the Prince Charles, which was the firft three-deck ihip employed by Sweden in the Eaft-India-trade. It was lately built at Stock holm, and its bulk was 390 tons; it was man ned with 132 men, almoft ready to fet fail, and bound for Canton in China. Wood is much wanted in this country; and for this reafon the pilots, and all the' other ' iflanders, are obliged to buy this commodity in town, where of late its price is greatly rifen ; or to burn turf, which is dug in p#al- lelopipeds, as it was formerly in Holland. In a Eleven Swedifh miles make one degree ; confequently two miles are 1 zJ^} or ftill nearer 1 zj._. Englifh miles. F. this GOTHENBURGH ROCKS. 1750. 3 this province turf was not common fo early as 1670, fo that the citizens of Falkcnbergh and Laholm petitioned for the free importation of it, but were refufed. In 1672, the town of Laholm obtained, that the turf dug in that diftricT: ihould pay no duty. At prefent the turf is managed in Holland in a different manner from what it was before : which method the peafants of Fiare learnt only 30 years fince from the inhabitants of Salkenbergh and Ward- bergh ; it is thus done. As foon as the farmer has fown the fummer corn, he goes to the turf- moor : the firft comer takes the ' beft place : feveral parifhes divide a moor amongft them- felves. They at firft take off the green fods, as far as the roots of heath and grafs reach ; they then pour water upon the turf mould, and dig it out by little and little, till they reach a fandy foil. In the middle of the moor they may dig a fathom deep, but not fo deep on the fides. The hole is made Hoping on two fides, fo that they may drive into it with a horfe and cart. The mud is then carried out of the hole upon the field, there fpread with the fpade to the thicknefs cf three or four inches, and cut crofs-ways, fo that it may be broken into quadrangular pieces. But thofe B 2 who 4 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. who defire to have their turf ftill harder, fqueeze the mud, whilft foft, into round pieces refembling loaves, and let them dry in the fields, laying them clofe by one another. The turf which is grown a little harder is laid in heaps, yet fo that the wind may pafs through;- -and is fheltered from rain. In Ham mer, the turf is carried home, put under a roof, and ufed in brewing, baking, boiling, and for warming rooms. The turf foil is either reddifh, brown, or black, all which is equally good according to the account of the peafants ; but they add, firft, that the turf muft never be mixed with fand, which in- creafes its bad fmell ; fecondly, it muft not be mixed with clay, which hinders it from burn ing ; and thirdly, it muft be clear of all wood and great roots, becaufe the ground about them is always very loofe. They commonly find the beft moors in large fields, becaufe the roots moulder better there than in Woods, and the water is more eafily carried off. Often the beft turf foil is found upon moors where heath grows. This plant is always to be met with in good turf-moors, where the wind blows freely, and where other plants are mouldered GOTHENBURGH ROCKS. 1750. 5 mouldered away b ; as we find in Holland, and other countries, \\ hich are in want of woods, and where turf has been in ufe for a long time. Yet I know "that the foil in fuch moffes or moors, where heath is not yet rooted, is ufed alfo for turf, efpecially where there is no choice. It has been obferved, that turf-earth is a fort of foil produced from mouldered plants ; and feems to confift chiefly of a moul dered, red mofs, Sphagnum paluflre, Linn. which in Weftrogothia is called hweetare Mofs (and from this probably the -moffes, Moffar, take their name; which elfe are called Myror, perhaps from Myror,, ants, or pifmires, for they frequently are met with in this mofs) ; I myfelf found this mofs in a woody moor, every where at a fathom's depth, and always frefh. b Erica, heath, never grows in turf moors before they are quite dry ; for it cannot bear wet, and often perifhes when the place where it grows is under water, as Dr. Linnteus has obferved in his Iter Scanicum. But the Erica tnyricts folio hirfuta, Bauh. pin. 485. grows in marfhy moffes and moors ; and I have found this variety of heath (which is uncommon in Germany) in Mecklenburgh, amongft the ledum paiujire, or marfh ciftus, and the 'vacci- nium uligimfum, great bilberry bufh. But in what manner the common fmooth heath changes into this rough fort is unknown to me, and is worthy of farther enquiry. D. S. ' B 3 Decern- OSBECK'S VOYAGE. December 6th, 6i° 14' N. L. The Faroe ifles, which we faw this morn ing, looked as gloomy as the weather of this feafon. You fcarce fee any thing elfe than high mountains covered with fnow, a cloudy fky, and a roaring fea. Thefe iflands belong to Denmark, which proyides them with corn ; and the iflanders, who are faid to be very in- duftrious, re-pay it with ftockings, waiftcoats, gloves, quilts, and train-oil, &c. ; for breed ing of fheep and fiihing are ¦ their principal trades. It is faid, that they catch a great many whales ; that they eat dry cod-fifh in- ftead of bread ; and that they put their fheep- tallow under ground, in order to ufe it after- Wards as butter or oil. December 9th, 60" 10' N. L. We thought to have paffed in the night time, Rocbelle, a fmall ifland about the fize of a fhip. Decern- ISLES OF FCEROE. 1750. 7 December 19th, 5 6° 42' N. L. Our feamen gave the name of Northcaper to a fort of whale which is difcovered by its throwing up the water ; it is Delphums orca, or the Grampus. The Danifli miffionary Hans Egede fpeaks thus of it, in his treatife called Gamle Greenlands nye perhftration (or a New Review of old Greenland) : " The fpecies of " whales called the Northcaper derives it's " name from the North Cape, in Norway, " where they are numerous ; yet they are " likewife found about Iceland, Greenland, " and other countries ; for they look for the " places where herrings and other fmall fifh " are in plenty, and often a ton of herrings " have been found in the ftomach of fuch a " whale. The Northcaper is very like the " Balana phyfalus, or fin-fifli, which being a " very nimble fifh goes into the open fea, as <{ if it were afraid of becoming a prey to its " enemies if it approached the coafts. This " kind has a more folid fat, and its whalebone ". is not fo long and good as that of the for- " mer, and therefore is feldom purfued." For a further account, fee Klein. Hift. Fifcium, Miff. II. p- 1 2. Balana Borealis, Northcaper. B 4 Tho OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The year 1751. January ift, 3 6° 35' N. L. In the forenoon we faw Cape Vincent, a pro montory in Spain. The fhores appeared high and white, and the ever-green trees made the country look very fine. January 4th. The Granate mountain fhewed itfelf to the right at a great diftance, on account of its prodigious height. The Rock St. Eedro, which was to the right, was quite frefh in our memories, on account of the fhip called Sweden, which the crown of Sweden had designed for a prefent to the Turkiih Emperor, but was loft here in November 1738, when Captain Wagenfeld, was conducting her to Conftantinople. Of the artillery which was recovered out of the Water, fix brafs cannon and a mortar are ft ill to be feen at Cadiz, all inferibed with the name and arms of that moft glorious Kin? Charles S PANISH SEA. i7j|i. 9 Charles the Twelfth and are kept there for the Swedifh fervice. White gulls and herring gulls (Earns canus et fufcus) were here in fuch flights, as if they would difpute with the filhermen about their right of fifhing. The greater and lefler Por cos are two rocks on the ftarboard, at the entrance of the port of Cadiz : we happily paffed by them. When the water is low, they are very confpicuous; but when it is high, they are known by the breakers only. St. Sebafiian's is acaftle upon a little ifland near Cadiz, which, with two other caftles, ferve to defend this town. The Gulf of Cadiz, or the Road, is well known under the name of the Spanifh-bay, where the fhips of many nations yearly come, and where we likewife caft anchor after a fix weeks voyage, and having fuffered a great ftorm. After faluting, we were welcomed by feveral of our countrymen.' We faw Cadiz and Fuerta real, on the bay ; Puerto de Sancla , Maria lo OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Maria directly oppofite Cadiz, and Rota fur ther on towards the fea. The Quarantine-boat (or pra&ic-boat, as the Swedes call it) was a floop covered with green, which was rowed by twelve men, and in it were two or three gentlemen of the col lege of health in Cadiz. After the floop had joined our veffel, they afked whence the fhip came ? what was her name, and that of her captain I how many men fhe had ? &c. The anfwers they received were written down upon paper. We likewife fhewed them our fhip's journal, and told them that they would find in it the name and manner of the death of a man that was killed by a fall. They took the journal with them on fhore, in order to fhew it to the col lege ; but firft ordered u? to let none go out of the fhip before they had obtained leave : for this reafon we put a goofe upon our fore- top-maft, which is a fign of a fhip's keeping the quarantine. January the 13 th, and the following days. I saw on-board a Swedifh fhip fome orfelle, or oricelle (Lichen roccclla), a fpecies of mofs 5 which SPAIN. 1751. ix which grows upon the Canary Iflands, efpeci ally on Ten eriff; and I was told that it fold in Leghorn at two dollars copper coin c per pound, and that it was ufed to dye red with. The climate here is not very agreeable, for the heat obliges the inhabitants to keep within doors on the fineft fummer days, to ileep dur ing the day, and to go out at night. Without doors the heat is very difagreeable ; and from May to the middle of October they muft fuffer a great deal from gnats. Sea plants are very fcarce along the ihores here, whereas the Swedifh ihore has all forts of fuci, conferva?, &c. in plenty. Cadiz miol'ya is a fuburb without the city walls, where all travellers land that come to town by water. In this part are two columns of white marble, erefted by the governor of the city during the reign of Philip the Fifth, as expreffed in the infcription. Befides this, there is a watch-houfe for the foldiers, and a little cuftom-houfe. * About 1 1 d. Englifh. TtURE 12 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. There, are two gates in this approach, one for thofe that enter, and the other for thofe that go out. Both of them have draw-bridges, guarded with fome foldiers ; and about thofe are a number of lynx-eyed vijitors (or cuftom- houfe officers) dreffed in a fort of wide jackets, called Cafa guillas in Spanifh, which are ufed in this country as riding-coats. Under thefe coats they are faid to have always a brace of loaded piftols, for their defence. The ufual drefs of their countrymen are thefe brown coats and flapping hats. They can make figns to one another through the gates if any thing happens ; and they are obliged to look very ' ftri&ly with regard to all unlawful importation or exportation, particularly that of money, which muft pay fomewhaf per cent. Thofe that go out are vifited with a ftriclnefs beyond defcription ; as I once wanted to, get out of the gate in great hafte, with my pockets full .of ftones, it occafioned a fufpicion in one of the vifitors, who, iii an earaeft manner, put his hands into my pockets, and looking at me with a threatning countenance, fearched every thing very carefully ; but finding nothing but ftones, he only fouled at my folly. To im port SPAIN. 1751. 13 port tobacco and fnuff is capital, or at leaft the perfon who imports it is condemned to the gallies for life : but they except that which the Spaniards bring from their American co lonies. A fnuff-box therefore, if full of fnuff, may occafion great trouble to the bearer. Cadiz, or Cadix, or, as the Englifh fome- times call it, Cales, is the principal fea-port in Spain ; it contains a great number of inhabi tants, is fituated on the fea-fhore of the pro vince of Andalufia, at the extremity of an ifland, in 36 deg. 33 min. north latitude and 23 deg. 45 min. weft longitude from Upfal. The city is furrounded with fine gardens and fortifications, and is faid to have three hun dred brafs cannon d- d The origin and antiquities of this town are defcribed by Juan Baptijia Suarez de Salazar, in his Atitiguedades de la d-vdad de Cadiz, 1610, quarto, 3 1.7 pages ; and afterwards in the Emporio de el orbe, Cadiz illujirada, iniiejligacion de fits antigucis grandezas, difcwfida en concurfo de el general imperio de Efpana por el R. P. F. Geronimo de la conception, religiofo defcalzo de el order de nueftra Senora de el Carmine, y gaditano de origen, que la dedica a la muy nohle y muy leal ci'vdaa de Cadiz, Amfterd. fol. 1680, 663 pages: the price of it here at Cadiz is four pefos duros, that is, about feventeen {hillings and fix pence fterling. The *4 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The walls, and moft of the houfes in this town, are made of a fort of ftone which they call Seller ia, and which is Tophus particulis tejlaceis, argil la & arena coadunatus, or a mixture of fhells, clay, and fand. It is faid that the before mentioned rocks Porcos confift of this ftone. It is broken on the fea-lhore and carried from the mioPya (when the tide is low) in high carts to the town ; and thofe pieces which are too heavy to be put into the cart are faftened with ropes below it. The ftone is foft in cutting, and therefore very proper to build with, as it hardens by time. The inner terras of the wall, to which a ftaircafe leads on the right hand fide of the gates, is covered with Dutch clinkers e, and as broad and even as the fineft road. From thence you furvey with pleafure (over the outward part of the wall, which is about four feet higher and very narrow) the fhips riding at anchor, going out and coming in : among the firft, is the filver-fleet. To wards the city you behold a ftreet where falads, * Clinkers are a fpecies of Dutch bricks. roots, SPAIN. 1751. 15 roots, and all forts of fruits, are expofed for fale, winter and fummer. The Spaniards make ropes and cables, for fhips and other ufes, of a certain grafs which they call Sparto. This is the Stipa tenacijfima, Linn, or Spar turn herba Plinii, Cluf. Hift. 2. p. 220. which is faid to grow in wet places f. The ropes they make of it are fo durable, that they need not be tarred ; but the Spa niards dry and fpin it without preparation, contrary to what we are ufed to do with our hemp. This might, perhaps, furnifh hints to us to look out for fome of our own wild graffes in order to employ them in the fame manner, and we might make a beginning with the Elymus arenarius. The Spanifh mats which are brought to Sweden are made of the fame Sparto. Olive trees (Olea Europaa) and white poplars (Populus alba) are planted on both fides the ramparts, and are watered by fub- terraneous pipes. Thus the city has the ad- 1 Linnaeus in his Species Plartfarum, and Loefling in his Journey through Spain fay it grows on the fandy hills of Spain. .vantage 16 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. vantage .of a garden's being within her walls; and therefore every one, if he choofes, can at once enjoy the pleafure of living in town and country. The road which goes further on will foon be adorned in the fame manner. The ramparts were, in all other places, of an equal breadth, and covered with fand, which makes it very eafy walking round the town. On the ramparts, and even in other places, wooden croffes were erected. The beggars were every where crying, Una limoneta por el amor de Dios y por las benditas almas a ejle pobre, or fome fuch other petition for God's or for the Saints' fakes. The foldiers upon the ramparts diverted themfelves with fiihing, when the tide was in. My defire of contemplating their art a little nearer was fruftrated ; as I experienced now, and at other times, that foreigners are not per mitted to ftand ftill upon the ramparts, to look about them. The country fide has ftill higher walls ; and its ditches, ramparts, and batteries, are more curious SPAIN. 1751. tT curious than I can defcribe, and are daily im proving. - The market near the above mentioned fea gate, as well as a ftreet on the right hand of it along the high walk, are always well pro vided with victuals in bags, &c. and every perfon cries what he has to fell ; thus, one cries Cafianas calientas y cocidas, boiled warm chefnuts ; another has a mug of water upon his back and a glafs in his hand, and cries Agua del Puerto, water from Port St. Mary. Fish, in particular falted fea-fifh, were fold in vaft quantities in this market ; and I heard them cry more than thirty different forts. The houfes, as well private as public, are built of the above mentioned ftone (Tophus'), and fometimes of limeftone. They are gene rally two or three ftories high, and have bal conies which have no windows, except in the houfes of people of quality, and are provided, inftead of them, with two fhutters, which are opened when you want to let in the day-light, or to look at the great crowd of people pafling by. On thefe balconies they put their ftone Vol. I. C water- 18 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. water-jugs, in which the water ufed in the houfe keeps beft. FLowER-pots, with rue, rofemarys, See. are likewife ranged in the fame place. The houfes of the people of condition are built round a fquare : at the fecond ftory on the infide, a gallery goes quite round, except on one fide, where they ufually have a little gar* den, out of which the P 'ajfifiora ccerulea creeps over the fecond-ftory windows ; where, upon particular ftands, are feen cypreffes ' (Giipreffhs fempervirens'), Capftcum frutefcens, lemon and. orange trees, &c. which are likewife to be found below in the little gardens. The rooms are very high, white wafhedj, and without tapeftry or painting, but gene rally ornamented with, portraits and gilt fur niture. They keep the fpecies of parrot called,; PJittacus garrulus, canary birds (Fringilld; Canaria), red-legged partridges (Tetra&fufus), s We bought fuch pots with flowe^ to put upon the1 deck, for three pieces of eight each. Lorn SPAIN. 1751. i9 Loxia tnolacea, and cardinal birds (Loxia car- dinalis), which latter were faid to eat the above mentioned Capftcum frutefcens . Stoves and chimnies are as much unknown in this country as froft and fnow. Floors and roofs are made of bricks and tiles. The former are covered with mats made of Spartoh. The rafters, laths, and tiles or flates of the roof are by no means concealed, and are rather difadvantageous to the beauty of the houfe, was this mode not in fome mea fure juftified by the ufe refulting from it, and did it not increafe the height of the rooms. The roofs are flat, and it is very agree able walking upon them. They are moft commonly adorned with flower-pots on the fides, which make them look like gardens ; in the pots are queen's ftock-july-flowers (Cheiranthus incanus) ; but where thefe are wanting, their places are fupplied by maple- leaved blue (Chenopodium hybridum), chick- weed (Alfine media), common fow-thiftle (Son- chus oleraeeus) ; and befides this Farietaria Lu- h Seepage 15, C 2 fitanka, 2o OSBECK'S VOYAGE. fttanica. Where the water gathers on the roofs,. Bryum murale and navel-wort (Cotyledon um bilicus) are found ; and on dry walls Lichen fa- rietinus. Towers without fpires-are put upon feve- ral roofs : they have four fides, a height of fome yards, and command a fine view of the town and the fhips. In the houfes of confuls, the colours are hoifted upon fuch towers af the arrival , of fhips. The doors are high, commonly fbldfng ones, and in the inner apartments often with out locks. The gates are ihut in the houfes of people of rank, with a latch on the infide without any handle ; but on the outfide is a little bell :: when this is pulled, the porter opens the gate from the balcony by a firing, which pulls up the latch, and thus opens one half of the gates, which flints of itfelf, by means of weights, as foon as the porter lets go the firing. But if any one comes in the night time, SPAIN. 1751. 21 time, the porter muft go down to open the gates, left fome difagreeable guefts ihould flip in. In the lowermoft floor are the ftables. They ufe little caution againft fire, for the coachmen go into the ftables with torches ; jet this accident feldom happens in Cadiz, as all the houfes are built with ftone. Oil is ufed in lamps, inftead of candles ; and likewife in drefling meat oil is employed .inftead of 'hutter. Their yards are paved, fome with- flags of Tophus, and fome with flags of Talcum. Some' have wells in their yards ; but the Water is not fit to drink, and muft therefore be ufed for other purpofes in houfe-keeping. The ftreets are paved with round pebbles, and -have a channel in the middle filled with Ihells -of fifh, peels of fruit, or the like ; which, putrifying 'by the heat, occafion a difagreeable fmell in many places. C .2 Thji 22 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The inhabitants are tawny, from the heat of the fun ; moft of them have long but nar row heads, great ears and eyes, black eye brows and hair. They are lively, and have an eafy carriage. A great mixture of other European na tions is to be met with here ; and befides _ thefe, they have negroes who ferve in the kitchens. Their language is very expreflive, for they accompany their words with motions of the head, ihoulders, and arms1. The officers, as well as common foldiers, are reckoned very civil to foreigners : but the feamen are con tinually curfing and fwearing ; and when they meet each other in their boats, it is their com mon falutation. The drefs of the men is very commodious, for if they do not drefs fumpt-uou-fiy, they cover their heads with a linen cap, and above that they put a flapped hat, round which 'they farten a ribband with a little buckle, and tie 1 Thefe gefturcs rather imply the contrary. it l SPAIN. 1751. 23 it to the head with another below the chin, fo that the wind may not blow it off. They ufe no cravats. The reft of their drefs is a waiftcoat, the fleeves of which are open be fore, and the cuffs fmall, like thofe worn by the Pruffian foldiers. Over thefe they put on a long wide jacket, . which is commonly of a black or brown co lour: they wear linen ftockings, and under them linen focks, and fhoes with low quarters and heels, though the dirty ftreets feem to require higher. They carry two handker chiefs about them, a coloured one to wipe off the fweat, and a white one. I fometimes faw young people walking with muffs, though it was then as warm here as it is in Sweden in fummer-time. Gold-laced cloaths are as fcarce with the quality as with the poor. People of rank carry flicks (which are faid to be parti cular badges of honour) when they are not dreffed. Some who have furvived heavy dif- eafes, or have efcaped great misfortunes, wear, agreeable to their, vows, no other than grey cloaths. The ladies wear their own hair, either in long and broad trefies, or fliort with a toupee C 4 and 24 OSBECK'S-VOTAG-E.. and ah aigrette, or tied up at top as the Swedifh country girls do. Hoops are not ufual here. They wear a fort of hood, which fits very clofe ; this they put over their heads when they are in the ftreets, but throw' it back when they are in .their houfes ; two ftraps, of a hand's breadth, hang down from it to the feet. If they go to church, a rofary, or paternofter; and a fan, are neceffary to their drefs. . .. The Swedifh Conful, Mr. Jacob Bellman, is honoured and beloved by every one, on ac count of his obliging behaviour. At the gate of his houfe, oppofite to the entrance, .the. Swedifh arms are put up : in his rooms were the portraits of the late King of Sweden, Frederic, of the prefent 'King, -and .Queen, and of the Hereditary Prince Guftavus. , Churches, chapels, convents, and hofpi- tals, are all very fine. The church of white , marble, which is not yet finiflied, and to the building of which the town pays a certain fum yearly, is the fineft and largeft of them all. The fubterraneous vaults below this church are almoft as- large as the entire ftruflure of the other churches, ^and fome corpfes have al ready SPAIN. 175 r. 25 ready been depofited in them ; they are faid to be quite finifhed ; but the walls of the church are not raifed to the height intended ; and yet candles are continually burning in it for its patron St. Francis' Xavier, who fuffered martyrdom from the heathens for preaching the gofpel in Japan, and is faid to have wrought as many miracles as there are Wax tapers burning round his image ; to which the inhabitants pull off their Rats whenever they pafs by. Wax tapers are burning in the churches day and night. At the entrance is Agua ben- dita, or holy water, in a difli or veffel, into which they dip their fingers, and crofs them- felves when they go in and out. The church pavement is every where covered with matts; upon which men and women, of all ranks, kneel down for want of feats. The bells are always ringing, but not fo as with us ; for they make a noife almoft all day, firft in one fteeple, then in another, then in all together, for prayers, or mafs, on account of lightning, or the dead : the latter is always in the evening, for their mafTes for the dead are kept about that time. Rosario, zi OS BECK'S VOYAGE. '.. "Rosa rio, or ajrofary, is HjeceiTary to botli fees, to regulate the number of their pralyeFS; it confifts of a fine fil ver or brafs ehairi, with ¦glafs or coral heads, or pearls, Sec/' and a -crofs, from which hang two or three medals, with the images of faints, which are much valued. Crossing is performed with the thumb, -before and after church fervice, Or prayers', three times : viz. upon the forehead, mouth, and breaft, fo that nothing may befall their eye'sy- mouth,' or heart ; which is the more ne- ceffary,' as tlie crofs, according to their cate-, chifm, is the principal mark-of a Chriftian.^ They marry*' very young.; and a boy ©£ fourteen years may marry a;girl of twelve. T Their burials differ from ours -in many things : before the corpfe a crofs with lan- thorns is carried ; -as Toon as it is depofited in the grave, fome quick-lime is thrown in along with it. In the evening a mafs is read for the dead, and the organ Is played, though hone but the, living are the better' for it. Their bu- rying-grounds are out of the town ; but they ; ' ' fuffer. SPAIN. 1751. 27 fuffer no proteftant to lie in their church yards. The proceflions might almoft be confidered as funerals by ftrangers : they confift of a number of people of high and low rank, who follow a crofs through the town, accompanied by many lanthorns, and finging the Fe Deum and Litany. Thefe proceflions are fixed to certain days ; as the 2d of February, the 25th of March, the 15th of Auguft, the 8th of "September, and the 8 th of December ; and befides thefe, they have others on certain faints days, and when meat is to be gathered for the prifoners ; and then they take kettles, difhes, pots, &c. with them. If they meet with fuch a proceflion, the people ftand ftill, take off their hats, and fall on their knees, though the ftreets be ever fo dirty. They have the liberty of making themfelves merry three days before Lent ; and then they throw carraway comfits at the people who pafs by, with other things much more difagreeable. The fchools have mafters and ufhers, who teach children the firft principles of reli gion, and the form of the mafs, which they inftrucl: them to mumble all together. They ZS OS BECK'S VOYAGE. They feldom teach any other than then- own language ; and it is faid, that, befides the Jefuits, there are but few who underftand La tin, and thofe make ufe of a particular pro nunciation ; thus, for mihi they fay mickL The Hebrew langiuige and the Jews are equally in jdifgrace with the Spaniards, and therefore are both excluded from the colleges. The Spanifh poetry is greatly efteemed, par ticularly the works of Quevedo are praifed be yond meafure ; comedies in verfe are frequent ly printed and acted, and the reading of them is the principal amufement of many people. The ftate of the fciences in Spain is beft re- prefented by the learned Spanifh Benedi£tine friar Geronimo Fejoo, in his Cartas JLruditas, ¦or Learned Letters, 1750, Tom. III. carta xxxi. p. 384. k Here are feveral bookfellers fhops, in which may be procured Spanifh books on re ligion, printed on a wretched paper, bound in foft pafteboard, with leathern ftraps inftead of k In the original is a long quotation from Fejoo's book, which the tranflator does not think interefting to an Englilh reader. clafps J SPAIN". 175-1. zy cl'afps ; as alfo fome few French well-bound books, tra natural hiftory, phyfic, hiftory, &c. Old books are expofed for fale, in the market and in other places, upon tables. None but ecclefiafticks are permited to read: the Bible, and the Inquifition is very ftrict in this article. For this reafon it is only fold in Latin ; and as the Spaniards feldom. trouble themfelves about any but their own language,, this order is very feldom difobeyed. Their catechifm, or, as it is called, Doc- trina Chrifiiana, is very fhort. The firft quef- tion is, What is the fign of a Chriftian ? an- fwer,, Croffing ; of which we have given an account above. In this catechifm, feven facra- ments.are mentioned, baptifm, confirmation, penance, communion, extreme unftion, orders, and matrimony ; and it is obferved, that the five firft are abfolutely neceffary. Works of mercy are fourteen, among which one is the giving alms to ftrangers. It like- wife mentions feven Peccados Capi tales, or -capi tal fins, and as many virtues : I. Pride. 2. Luxury. 3. Avarice. to OS BECK'S VOYAGE. 3. Avarice. 4. Anger. 5. Intemperance. 6. Envy. 7. Lazinefs. Virtues are, 1. Humility. 2. Chaftity. 3. Charity. Patience. 5. Temperance. 6. Benevolence. 7. Induftry. 4 In orddr to learn the Spanifh language* ("here is no better Dictionary than that of So- brina, which was publifhed in the year 1744, in two volumes iri quarto. The Grammar and Dialogues of Sobrino are alfo of great ufe '. 1 In this place, Mr. Ofbeck mferts, for the ufe of hi* countrymen, the Spanifh alphabet, with the pronunciation of thd lefte"r§ ; But as the great commercial connections of this country make all European languages more commeri among the Englifh, and many grammars and teachers of the Spanifh language are to be procured, it is entirely un- neceffary to infert an alphabet which the author, had made with a view to be beneficial to his countrymen only. F. N© SPAIN. I75r. 3-1 No protectant book is permitted to be brought into the city before the inquifitors. have perufed it. I ¦ n- To^avoid this. inconvenience, I did riot ven ture to take any books on-fhore, though I often wanted them* in particular fuch as treated of h-atural hiftory. rtxr Their difhes are fometimes very peculiar,. ©n. account of the many fpecies of fifh, fruity and roots, which are unknown to us* fi I. have feen no rye bread, and much lefs any of inferior quality ; it is chiefly made in rile Spatiifh or French manner. The latter^ which is here made of Englifh wheat, is well known to us. Great drought often occafions a bad crop, which was the cafe the year be fore I arrived. Their fugar-bread, which is equal in tafte to the French bifcuit, is called Vifocho in Spa nifh, and is dipt into wine at table. They have likewife a fort of fugar-bread in Spain, which is like ginger-bread ; It is gilt at top, and made of water melons, called Calabaffa. Nobody 32 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Nobody is permitted to eat flefli in Lent, ex cept the fick, Who may obtain a difpenfation for a certain fee. Cow beef is reckoned beft in this country, becaufe the cows are feldom milked; but in their ftead goats, iheep, and affes. We bought two oxen for our fhip j their flefh was exceedingly dry, occafioned both by the larvas of the gad-fly which neftle in their ikins about this time, and by the want of good paftures ; for our fine Swedifh grafs is much wanted here, and in its ftead the paftures are covered with thiftles, and other prickly plants, which I fhall mention in another place. Sovaja is a, fort of corn which is fown in the inclofures of the town, not for the ufe of men, but only, for the cattle. They fold it to us in bundles, whilft it was green, and had no ears, which do not appear till March. Bees are here in great eftimation, or elfc the Spanifh proverb could not take place : Abeja y ovefa, Tpiedra que traveja, Tpendola trans oreja, T parte en la Igreja, Defea afu hi jo, la vieja, The SPAIN. i75r. 33 The beft wiflies of a mother to her fonare, bees, iheep, mill-ftones, a pen behind the ear, and a place in the church. Pot-herbs (Planta oleracea) are fown both within and out of the town ; as purflane, fpinage, and onions. The gardens are inclo- fed with walls, on which the Agave Americana. is planted inftead of a hedge; but where this is not to be had, the prickly glaffwort (Salfola Kali Linn.) or a hedge of twigs twifted toge ther becomes the fence. Origanum Creticum, Spanifh Oregano, known by the name of Spanifh hops, is ufed to make anchovies and other meats more palatable m ; and for that reafon, it was bought up very much in the apothecaries ihops, where .there is plenty of it to be had. Rosemary, which we reckon among the ornaments of our green-houfes, is carried for fale by whole cart-loads. Sweet or China oranges, and other fruit, are daily eaten after meals, and likewife at " I was told that this fort of fpice fold well in China. Vol. I. D other 34- O S B»E C K' S VOYAGE, other times; and that they may not occafipn ficknefs, they ufe. bread with them. It is no; fmall advantage (at leaft to a Swede it appears fo) to be able to take qne's amufement all the- winter-long in the gardens, and to pluck there the moft - delicious fruits; but, to balance thefe bleffings of a genial climate) there is not One good draught of water- in all the; town, as it muft all be brought from Port Mary in boats, or carried by affes, and is af-. terwards preferved in great ftone jugs. Thisi water-trade pays its merchants very well, for>- if I remember- right, each boat that fetched' water at the abovementioned place gained- about forty Swedifh dollars filver coin (that is nearly 50 fhilhngs) : the paffage is eafily made in 24 hours, in cafe they go with the tide,, and return with it. Wine of Xeres n is the beft and moft com mon fort, which , is made in a little town near Port St. Mary, called Xerez de la Fronteras^ -and derives its name from it. As our Eaft-Iivi dia fhips fail from their own port with but a. fmall ftore of wine, they generally take in at Cadiz a proper-quantity of -Sherry for the. f . Our Sherris or Sherry, whol|. SPAIN. 1751. 35 whole voyage and return ; becaufe this wine is ftrong, and preferves'its goodnefs in all cli mates. A quarter of a calk, containing from ten to eleven gallons, cofts forty Swedifh dol lars filver, or nearly fifty fhillings fterling. Tinto or Rota wine is reckoned lefs wholefome than the white, and is therefore cheaper. Pvaifins are alfo bought here, and fold in China with great profit. Spanish brandy is very ftrong, and may be ufed as fpirit of wine. We gave it every morning to the men, mixed with two-thirds of water, and it was ufed in the punch which we had twice a week at dinner. , Befides this, the captain ufuajly cheared the failors in a ftorm with punch or brandy. The people drink chocolate here in the morning, and fometimes in the afternoon in ftead of tea. The following is the manner of making chocolate : the chocolate nuts (Theo* broma cacao Linn.) are dried and rubbed into a foft pafte on a flat ftone, and fome cinnamon is added during the rubbing. This pafte is made into proper forms, fo that the chocolate? gakes refemble the fhape of bricks. Such a D 2 piece get OSBECK'S VOYAGE. piece of chocolate weighs one pound. If cho-> colate is to be made for drinking, you take fuch a piece to ten difhes of water ; it is bro ken, and whillb it is boiling it is ftirred with a ladle, the thickeft end of which comes to the bottom of the chocolate-pot which it fills. At each filling of a difh, they ftir it over again. It is probable that the manner of preparing it is the reafon why it has a better tafte here than in Sweden, though they do not mix the vanilla (Epidendrum vanilla Linn.), a very precious American fruit, with it. I never faw tea or coffee drank here. The tradefmen are Frenchmen, Englifh- men, or Italians, who work pretty well, but demand exhorbitant prices. Cloth and fluff are generally imported by the French, Eng lifh, and Italian merchants. The Exchange was kept in a broad ftreet called Calla nueva, or New-ftreet, clofe to the market. During the time that the mer chants are affeiiibled in it, the -opening of the ftreet towards the market is fhut up by a bar, as is ufual at our cuftom- houfes, Thr SPAIN. 1751. g7 The Spanifh pine-tree, (Pinus pinea) the olive-tree, and, as it is faid, the cork-tree C^uercus Suber Linn.), are all fold for fuel by weight. The Spanifh weights are accurately de- fcribed in the Memoirs of the Swedifh Aca demy of Sciences, 1746, p. 279. and after wards both the meafures and weights in the fame Memoirs, 1755, p. 180. The quantity of fpecie which circulates here is rather aftonifhing to a Swede. It is faid that fome people carry a good deal of this out of the kingdom ; and even the Spaniards themfelves fend great fums to the Eaft Indies, and other places. If any one carries a fum of money out of town, and is difcovered, he not only lofes his money, but is fent to prifon, and alfo fuffers other pu- nifhments. The people of this country do not make ufe of horfes for carriages or any other purpofe ; when an inhabitant of Cadiz goes out of town, D 3 he >j8 OSBE CK'S VOYAGE. he puts on a wide jacket, or Caffaqidlla, and wears neither coat nor boots, though both Wduld be very neceffary* He makes ufe of wooden ftirrups, which have fome likenefs to a fmooth- ing-iron without a cover ; he puts his feet into them, and they not only ferve as a fupport to him, but likewife as a cafe for his fhoes, to keep off the dirt. Mules (Equus afinus mulus Linn.), called Mulo and Mula by the Spaniards, draw their carriages, but they move very flowly. Their coaches have no feat for the coachman, fo he is forced to ride on one of the mules. She- mules do not propagate their fpecies, at leaft fuch inftances are very fcarce. They are the offspring of a mare and an he-afs, or of a mare and a mule. The common people be lieve that the fterility of the fhe-mule is in confequence of a curfe laid upon it by the Virgin Mary at the birth of our Saviour, be caufe it had eaten the hay which the ox had colle&ed together. Their common food is cut-ftraw with corn. The afs {Equus afinus) is lefs than the leaft horfe, and is very common in Spain, both in towns and in the country. The he-afs is called SPAIN. 1751. 39 rfealled Vufro, and the fh'e-afs Vurra, which is ¦ read as Burro and Burra. Burrico is the dimi^ nutive of this word, and denotes a little afs, whence the- Swedifh name Borica is derived* •They are lean, and afti-coloured* but grow blackifh after being fliorn. They are fed like horfes with cut-ftraw, but they likewife con tent themfelves with what they find in the , ftreets or road. When they come to market, their difagreeable braying even drowns the noife of the- crowd. They are ufed to all forts of work, except drawing a cart, which, is ne ver- donp but on the fea-fhore, from whence they carry ftones to, town : fand, ftraw, ftreer- -dirt, inrfhort every thing .that is to be removed from one place to another, is loaded upon the backs, of affes in panniers, made of mats, and open at top. But. if they carry water- or iriilk, they have faddles ihade of Oaken planks,, on which the cafks are laid on both fides. When you have affes, you want no bridles to them ; Tor as foon as the afs:driver .cries but Are or Araci, all thofe which h^ve ftrayed "out of the road turn in again.' Many hun dreds, of thefe animals were at the country-gate of Cadiz, whither they brought, fand to make: the ground even on the outfide of the ditches, riot to mention all thofe which are to be met ' D 4' wkn, 4o O SB ECK'S VOYAGE.. with in every part of the town. Their hoofs are never flioed, though affes are ufed like faddle-horfes at the poft-ftations ; but this kind of pofting is very difagreeable to thofe who are not ufed to it, from the flownefs of their motion. People of all ages fmoak tobacco, though it is (as well as fnuff) very dear. It is feldom fmoaked in pipes, but either in leaves rolled together, called Cigarro by the Spaniards, or the tobacco which comes in packs is wrapt up in paper, and this ferves inftead of pipes. The beft Spanifh fnuff comes from Seville, and they generally put it into fnufF-boxes of olive-wood, which are very pretty. It is very agreeable walking before the* gate towards the country, becaufe you are not peftered there with cuftom-houfe officers, and only meet with a few civil centinels, who fhew the way to ftrangers if they happen to mifsit. The high-road is very magnificent, and has ftone benches on both fides. The throwing of bombs into the air, and fome other diverfions of the fame kind, attraft a good many people hither, who repofe them felves on thefe benches. In other places the high-road SPAIN. 1751. 41 liigh-road is not fo grand. Travelling is much more inconvenient and expenfive here than in Sweden, on account of the delays and bad ac commodation. Travellers always carry fire arms and piftols with them, and feem as if they were marching to a campaign ; for they have reafon to be afraid of robbers, which, though lefs frequent farther in the kingdom, are often met with in Andalufia ; whence the Spanifh proverb, De el Andaluz guar da tu capuz ; Al Andaluz haze la cruz : Al Sevillano con una y otra mano : Al Corduves con manos y pies. Take care of thy head before an Andalufian, and fign thyfelf with a crofs ; before a Sevilian crofs thyfelf with both hands ; and before a Cordubian with hands and feet. I found neither animals of prey nor fnakes ; but I met a perfon having a long lizard, exceeding a foot ' in length, of green, yellow, and other colours, on a firing. It was very fpiteful, and when it was let down upon the ground, it opened its mouth at all who paffed by it, efpecially if a ftick was held near it. 42 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. it. The man who carried it faid he could fell it to the apothecaries. Euphorbia Par alias, a kind offpurge, was to be met with in the fandy grounds near the fea-fhore, where the waves of the fea often reached. It was. at that time without fruftifica- tion. V Spartium monofpermum, which the Spa niards call Retamas, grows like willow bufhes along the fea-ihore as far as the flying fahds reach. This plant was particularly plentiful in the peninfula on which Cadiz ftarids, which is covered with a fine white fand, and "where, befides this, fcarce any other plant groWs, except the Ononis repens, or creeping •teftharfow. The Retamas fometimes grows to the thicknefs of a man's arm ; its bark is afll- coloured, the numerous branches are all green ; its leaves fhine like fi-lk ¦; the frefh leaves are lanceolated, but the old ones are more obtufdi a little fplit at top, and reflected : the flowers are, innumerable, fmall, white, and have red Calices. The ufe of this plant is very great in flopping the progrefs of the flying fandi The leaves and young branches of it are very delicious SPAIN. 175*. 43 delicious food for goats, but I have not ob ferved that they, touch the bark. It turns the moft barren place into a fine odoriferous gar den by its flowers, which laft a long while. The twigs are ufed for tying bundles, inftead of rufhes ; and all kinds of herbs which are brought to market are fattened together with them. The whole fhrub ferves to fhelter hogs and goats againft the fcorching heat of the fun. Swine are kept in whole' herds by a man who feeds them with acorns, Which are Com monly fold at Cadiz and at other places. The fwine are very large, thin haired, and black as jet. It is probable they came originally from Africa, as I am told that this fort of hogs is very fcarce higher up in the country. It would be worth while for an oeconomift to get a breed of thefe fwine ; but they muft alfo be fed as they are here, and have fome exercife every day, which keeps them from growing too fat °, and makes them tafte well. The exportation of a boar of this kind is for bidden, but' a fow almoft ready to farrow ° In England no man tries to prevent his hogs from growing too fat. would 44 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. would be ftill better for the propagation of this kind of hogs. We bought a good many of thefe fwine for our fhip ; and every Satur day we killed one of them, and had broth called Puspas boiled from part of it. In the fame ifland were fome' little gardens, and in the midft of them here and there a palm-tree (Phanix dacTylifera) which gave them a fine appearance. January the 23d, and the following days. Puerto de Sancla Maria, which our failors called Port St. Mary, is a little unfortified fea- port, about three quarters of a Swedifh mile from Cadiz. I went this day to that place ; It is fituated in a plain, not far from the mouth. of a river. If you go up this river, the town is on your left hand, and on the right a fmall ifland, whofe fituation is low, and which is co vered with fhjrubs, among which the Nerium oleander, called Terva mala, or the noxious plant, by the Spaniards, grew in the fand near the water. On SPAIN. 1751. 45 On our arrival we were met by the cuftom- houfe officers, who came to us, with loaded fire-arms, in a boat. We afterwards went in fmaller boats into more ihallovs water, where we found a good many fellows who offered to carry the people on ihore for fome fmall mat ter, and they did it very cleverly. For the fame purpofe affes and horfes were kept in readinefs. Though the city is lefs than Ca diz, yet its ftreets are finer ; all the private and public houfes are of ftone, the fame as in Cadiz, but lefs. Some "of them were not yet rebuilt fince the plundering of this place by the Englifh. In a monaftery of this town I faw feveral repofitories full of relicks, but I fuppofe my readers will pardon my omit ting to enumerate them. The houfes were ornamented with pots, in which were rofe- mary, carnations, and other odoriferous plants, in full bloffom; but the Sempervivum arbor eum had no flowers as yet. Where thefe orna ments were wanting, Flora herfelf had fup- plied the bare walls with Bryum murale and Lichen parietinus ; and befides thefe, in fome places with Cotyledon umbilicus, or navelwort, whofe leaves grew between every little cleft, the Mercurialis annua, or French mercury, and Farietaria Lufitanka. The old ruined 3 walls $6 OSBECK'.S VOYAGE. walls were quite yellow with the Sifymbrium Irio, and with the Senecio communis or common groundfel. This town has gOod frefh wa ter, in fuch plenty, that, befides its own inha bitants, it fupplies Cadiz and the fhips in that port.' This water is reckoned the beft in this country, wherefore in Cadiz they cry. Agua 'del Puerto. I am told that it is brought a quarte r- of a §wedifh mile by fubterraneous canals to this place. There are feve-ral houfes in this town from whence the water may be fetched ; one in particular was built for that purpofe on the river fide, during the reign of King Philip V. The fhip-boats come thither £.nd fetch frefh, water, without }ofs of time, becaufe they open the water-canal for a very fmall matter. The other houfe is an Englifh, inn, where 3II the ftrangers generally lodge,) . The leaves of the famphire (Crithmum ma-> ritimum), pickled in vinegar p, are eaten here and in Cadiz with roafted meat. This jiiicy plant grows on the coafts of England, and perhaps on thofe of Spain, but not in this t The manner of pickling this, and all the like fait and juicy plants, as is ufual in England, is dtfcribed by Mr,' frofeffor Kalm, in his Voyage to North America, Vol, JI. p. 97. .ot the Swedifh edition. Dr. Schrsbir. place ; SPAIN. 1751. 47 place : it is not found in Sweden ; but we have other juicy plants, fuch as (Salic ornia Europaa) marfh famphire, or jointed glaff- wort. The country hereabouts was already beau* tified with many flowers. Dwarf-mallow (Mal- va rotundifolia), with large red flowers, grew both about the houfes and out of town, and was greedily eaten by hogs and oxen ; but they always paffed by the funfpurge (Euphor bia heliofcopia), and would rather eat the Car- duus Syriacus, the white fpotted leaves of which, though they ornament the fields, I think, afford but a poor food. The cow-herds go with long flicks, like the Polifh bear-keepers. All the Spanifh Ihores are mountainous, except in this place. The foil alfo varies much. On the fea-fhore you find during low water a blue clay, and near it ^ fine white fand, which covers the country here and there at a little diftance from the fea. It often looks like large hills of fnow, where pine woods or other plants hinder it from Ayr jng. Higher up from the fea, you find a mould mixed with fand and pebbles, fometimes pf a reel, and fometimes of another colour. In 48 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. In the vallies is fometimes a iky blue or other clay, the fame as in their wheat-fields. The plants on the fea-ihore were very few ; Spartium monofpermum and Juncus acutus were but juft fprung up from the ground. A litde farther from the water grew Schcenus mucrona- tus involucri foliis fcapo longioribus. Still fur ther off began the woods of the Pinus p'mea, which hindered the fand from fpreading any further. In thefe woods I found the refthar-f row (Ononis); there grew likewife queen's ftock-july-flowers (Cheiranthus incanus), broad- leaved moufe-ear, chickweed (Cerajlium vif- cofum), Lotus cytifoides, and Crepis bar- bata. The latter was in bloffom ; the ftock-july-flower juft began to flower at my departure ; but the reftharrow had no appear* ance of flowering at that feafon. Some infefts are found in this fand; in par ticular, Scarabzus facer, lavis, thorace inermi. Gardens or plantations take up a great part of the fields ; and they contain lemon, orange, almond, and olive trees, which turn to a confiderable profit to the owners. The SPAIN. 1751. 49 The lemon tree, the Seville and fweet otange trees, are much akin to one another, and are generally planted promifcuoufly 1. The fweet fmell of their flowers would almoft revive a perfon when half dead. The fruit ripens fo flowly, that the whole year is fpent before it comes to perfection. It is faid by fome nurfery-men, that they can produce fruits of which one quarter is Seville, the fecond fweet orange, the third quarter fweet, and the fourth four lemons. Sovaja was fown in fome places amongfl the trees ; fometimes parts of the plantations were fown with falads, radiflies, onions, &c. The Phcenix daclylifera r is feldom to be met with here : there were fome near the mo- naftery, almoft as high as the houfe itfelf, the dates of which were fallen down, and were of the colour and fize of white plumbs. The 1 In the Linnaean Syftem they are all included in one Genus, viz. Citrus. 1 This is the Date-palm. There are two fuch in the Governor's garden at Gibraltar forty-five feet high, and fuppofed to be fome hundred years old. Voe. I, E leaves 5o OSBECK'S VOYAGE. leaves are twifted together by the friers, who make prefents of them to ornament the houfes on Palm-funday; and on that day they are likewife ftrewed about the ftreets. The vineyards looked very poorly, and are like our s burnt land {Swedieland), for there are neither leaves nor flowers to be feen. The vines were planted in rows, and little drains were made between each row. Medic or fnail trefoil (Medicago polymorpha) and Rumex fpi- nofus were flow in flower. The almond-tree (Amygdalus communis), in Spanifh Almendro, is an ornament to the vine yards with its white and reddifh-coloured blof- foms. The olive-tree (Olea Europaa) was planted in large fields, having a red-coloured foil mix- 8 In Sweden, Finland, Livonia, and the greatefl part of RuiTia, where woods are plentiful, the countrymen cut down large tracts, burn them, and then they fow the land for three years and more together, becaufe the afhes of the wood manure the land for all that time; after which they chufc another place, and proceed in the fame manner; fo that in twenty or more years they may return to the firft place, which is then again entirely covered with wood; and this is tailed in the north Swedieland. F. ed SPAIN. I75t- 51 ed with little ftones. The Spaniards call the tree Olivo, but its fruit, or the olives, Aceytuna. On them grew the Lichen crifiatus, and be low the trees bloomed a fpecies of ftock-july- flowers (Cheiranthus trilobus), and Valeriana tornucopia. In one of thefe olive-tree planta- tations I found Arum arifarum, the roots of which go very deep. The olive-trees fhewed no bloffoms as yet, and had but a poor inclo- .fure. I saw here fome fmall flocks of Spanifh iheep : they were all white, with fome black fpots near the eyes, "^ ears, and mouth. See Dr. LinnaSus's Voyage to • Weftrogothia, page 58. Artichokes (Cynara folymus), in Spanifh Acanziles, or Alcachofa, or Cardillos, were planted on little hills, as we do hops ; the reft of the garden fluff, "as beans, turneps, &c. is managed as in Sweden. YThe tender plants are covered with fkreens, which are erected almoft horizontally at two yards from the ground : to water the plants, water is drawn up out of the well by means of a great wheel, turned either by men or by F 2 an 52 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. an afs. The circumference of this wheat touches the water, and there are fev.eral earth en pots faftened to it by double firings, which. fetch up the water. Garden beans (Vicia fab a) we.re already in full bloffom in the open air, which we never can have before Midfummer-day in SwedeiK . This is a clear proof of the difference of the climate. The earthen walls, with which thf, gardens . and plantations are furrounded, are often three yards high, and are befides covered with prickly plants : among whjch. The Agave Americana t; is the moft com mon, moft beautiful,., and moft ufeful. This is called Pita in Spain* but it is by no means the Aloe vera, or femperwiva, except you wiU call every thing fempervivum which is ever green ; which would be as ridiculous, as to give: the fame denomination to the fir and the juni per, becaufe they both continue green all the winter. The leaves of this plant, which I was told was about fix years old, were three feet long. The laft year's fcapi, which- were already mouldering, were about two men's, 1 Vulg. American Aloe. . .: i lengths;, SPAIN. 1751, 53 lengths; and the frefh ones, which were al ready a yard in length, began to fliew their long anthera. The corolla were for the moft part eaten away, but the Jiamina and piftillum remained unhurt. The American aloe is ufeful in many re- fpe&s ; for, befides the ufe that is made of it in quick hedges, the leaves are foaked and ma naged like hemp, and may be fpun for purfes and other things. With the points of the leaves, which are as fliarp and as ftiff as an awl, they bore peoples ears, and clear tobacco pipes ; but they muft not be ufed for tooth picks, for the wounds their prickles caufe are not eafily healed. It is faid, that if its leaves, when roafted by the fire, be laid upon wounds, the pain will ceafe. The Americans ufe the juice of the root to cure the venereal difeafe. Some further account is to be met with, in the book called " The Memoirs of Sophia Eliza- " beth Brenner," printed at Stockholm, in folio. In it fhe fpeaks of the qualities of this plant:. Upon the firft American aloe's flowering in Sweden, it began to bloffom in September 1708, and continued till the next winter in Noors Sates gard. " The Agave, fays fhe, is 41 a plant which fupplies all the wants of the E 3 " Indian, 54 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. " Indian, according to the beft authorities w': " if he wants to make a hedge round his fields, " he plants the Agave round them, becaufe its " leaves are ftiff, and armed with innumerable " prickles. If he builds any thing, he makes " his planks of Agave, which he can ufe in- " ftead "of timber ; and he thatches his cot« " tage with its leaves. The latter are of ftill " greater ufe to him ; as frOm the fame mate- " rial he makes his paper, linen, cloaths, '* m'oes, thread,' difhes, -plates, 'arid' other "utenfils.' The points of the leaves are as " good as nails^ fpe'ars, orpins.- If he choofes, " he can make wine, honey, fugar, :and'viner "gar, from its juice. If he puts the "thick " leaves of it under-ground for fome tiraej " they tafte better than melons, or lemons " with fugar." Cactus opuntia, whofe ftem is thicker thafl a man's arm, is likewife ufed to cover the walls ; and befides this, feveral other plants, fuch as holly (Ilex aquifolium), called Hon in French. u Nardus Anto>jius Recchus de re medica Nov. Hifp. Lib. VIII. Cap. xii. Romae, 1651. Amongst SPAIN. 1751. 55 Amongst, the thorny plants are feveral others ornamented with fine flowers ; viz. Lycium Euro'paum, Atriplex portulacoides, fea purflane. Chenopodium ambrofidides. Afparagus officinalis, afparagus. — falcatus . T~— ucutifolius , — — aphy Uus. Galium apdrine, cleavers, or goofe-grafs. -...Arijblochia rotunda. Fumaria officinalis, fumitory, called Conojita in Spanifh., Arundo donax, a fpecies of reed called Cana in Spain, held up its head above ^11 the reft ; its .flowers were already withered. It is ufed for walkingrfticks and for fiihing- rods. On the fteep fides of thefe walls, towards the road, grew Bryum acaulon erica tenuifolia folio. Dillen. Mufcor. 388. t. 49. f. 55. y. Anethum fceniculum, or fenel, Phlomis purpu rea, Teucrium iva, Targionia hypophylla, ^nd the Palmetto, or Chamarops humilis, which laft throve beft here, and hung downwards ; but thefe were not in bloffom ; nor was the Daphne . gnidium, a fhrub which is very like to our \ - E 4 Ledum S6 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. Leduin palufire, or "marfh ciftus, and grew hear the road ; where I found in bloffom likewife Geranium cicutarium, hemlock leaved Crane*- bill. Clypeola jonthlafpi. Vinca major, great periwinkle, in one fingle place. Hyacinthus ferotinus. • — monfirofus. Veronica agrefiis, germander fpeedwell. My of otis Jcorpioides arvenfis, moufe-ear fcor? |>ion grafs, Thlafpi burfa pafloris, ihepherd purfe. Centaurea pullata. fphcerocephala* Silene cono'idea. Refeda glauca* Anagallis latifolia. Arum maculatum, wake Robin, or cuckow pint, , t Matricaria chamomilla, corn feverfew. Bifcutella didyma. In the. gardens were the following plant? growing fpontaneoufly, in full bloffom; fdpaver rhoeas, red ppppy, Bfachys hirta. V\cH SPAIN. 1751. 57 Vicia lutea,- yellow vetch. One Phyfalis. Solanum nigrum vulgare^ garden or common jnightfhade. Alfine media, common chickweed. Borrago officinalis, borage, in Spanifh Boraja. Malva rotundifolia, fiore majore rubefcente. Sonchus oleraceus, fowthiftle, in Spanifh Se- rajas. Urtica urens, annual nettle, 1 in Spanifh or- }' dioica, common netde, j tega. Riclnus communis, in Spanifh, Higuera del inferno, or infernal fig-tree ; this was fcarce. Sifymbrium irio, fmooth broad-leaved hedge- muftard. Senecio vulgaris, common groundfel, which likewife grew on the roofs and gutters. Punica granatum, the pomegranate-tree ; it was then without bloffoms. In poor and wafte fields, the Palmetto (Cha- marops humilis), which is called Palmito by the Spaniards, is as common as the juniper- ihrub with us: the Palmetto has -a narrow, and as it were compreffed ftem, with thorns on the edges. The ftem is about a quarter of a yard long, and ends with a leaf of the fame length, 58 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. length, which at firft is folded together like a fan, but higher up it opens and expands. When the ftem grovjs longer, it lies down on the ground. At that time this little palm? tree had neither bloffoms nor fruit. Its leaves are every where ufed for brooms. The roots, which fpread very much, are fold in the towns, and eaten raw, after they have been peeled. Upon the fame fields grew the afore-meq-r tioned thiftle ; and alfo Illecebrum paronychia^ Crocus Bulbocodium. Salvia verbenaca, wild clary. Tragopogon Dalecampii. Cynogloffum cheirifolium. "• Iris Xiphium. Calendula officinalis, garden marygold. Stachys arvenfts. Marrubium vulgare (without flowers), white- hoarhound. Between and below the Palmetto trees, the following plants were in bloffom : Lamium amplexicauk, great henbit. Geranium molle, dove's-foot crane's-bill. Andro- SPAIN. 1751, S9 Andropogon bicorne ? Linum ufitatiffimum, flax. Sherardia drvenfis, little field-madder. On the road, between the gardens, I faw in flower, Anemone palmata. Afphodelus fiflulofus. Afphodelus ramofus, called in Spanifh Gar mon ; this fine plant, which grows up to the height of five feet, was to be met with both within and without the gardens. Doronicum bellidiaftrum. Beta vulgaris, beet. Echinops Riiro. Anchufa officinalis. Silene pendula. Stellaria arenaria. Lycopfis veficaria. Hypocharis radicata, long-rooted hawk- weed. Ranunculus bulbofus, bulbous-rooted crow foot. Lichen phyfodes. Panicum crus galli. Euphorbia 60 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Euphorbia peplus. fatcata. — — exig'ua. I different fpecies of heliofcopia. r fpurges. efula. — . myrfi'nites. Lagurus ovatus. Rumex acetofa, forrel. Silene jloribus laterulibus folkariis, calycibus lanatis, foliis ciliatis. The ftalk is thin, one foot long, almoft quite rough, and withont branches : the leaves are lanceolated, and be low on the margin covered with a whiite wool ; their other' parts are quite fmooth, out of the lower leaves fhoot up fome imperfect petioli : but the flowers come fingly from the corners of the upper leaves alternately, and not two by two, on very Ihort peduncles. The club like calyx has ten points, covered with a long white wool. January 28th, and the following days. I went again to the fields which lye before the city of Puerto de Santa Maria; and found, befides the above-mentioned plants, the water- crowfoot (Ranunculus aquatilis), whofe white • flowers S PAIN.. 1751. 61 ftpwers entirely covered the ditches and ponds. In them I found alfo, the Conferva bulkfa. I came into a little wood of Spanifh firs, where the Myffus candelaris cloathed the trees. The wood was furrounded, like the gardens,, with hedges of Agave, or American aloe. It is no wonder that thefe woods are inclofed, for the thin and hard boards they afford for chefts to pack lemons in are often dearer than the fruit itfelf. In the fir-wood I found a good many fcarce plants, and among the> reft the Sifym- brium fylveflre, on which I difcovered a hairy caterpillar, which afterwards became a fmooth, pale-green coloured, oblong-pointed, angula- ted, warty, black aurelia, having on the back a convex elevation. In its third, change it be came the Papilio hyale Linn, or Papilio Caroli- nianus luteus apicibus nigris. Petiv. Muf. p. 12, T.VII. fig. 10. Orchis fufcejfens Linn, bulbis fafciculatis, neclarii labia- ov at 0 indivifo fubcrenato, was very worthy of obfervation, as appears from the following defcription : the root confifts of two or more tuberous fimple bulbs, excepting four or fix fibres towards the beginning of the ftalk ; the ftalk was about the length of a fpan, round and red ; four leaves are near the root, 62 OS BECK'S VOYAGE* foot, the lower ones are larger, and oblong- oval (ovata lanceolata) ; the upper ones arc lefs fpeckled alternate, and cover the remain der of the ftalk with the fheath in which they/ end at bottom: the Jllpula which is below every flower is lanceolated, and like the leffer leaves of the ftalk of a red colour : the flowers at moft are feven, flefh-coloured, and confift each of five petals, that is three outward and two inward, which are almoft equal to one an other, lanceolated, and rolled up (convoluta); the lower lip of the neclarium is oval, entire, and fomewhat crenated ; the two Jlamina had round green dnthera. The Antirrhinum, arvenfe, or fnap-dragort, was very fmall, btit difcoverable by its yellow flowers. Allium fubhirfutum ; the toot confifts of two, three, or more white bulbs, from which run out little fibres ; their fcales are hard, brown, imbricated, and very irregular ; the ftalk is round, and uncovered at top ; the leaves grow commonly enfiform or fword-fhap- ed towards the root, and carinated below; they end in a point, are hairy on the margin, 2 and SPAIN. 175 u 63 and longer than the ftalk ; the fpat ha is torn, and generally withered : the flowers which form the umbella are white, and confift of fix oval, oblong, concave, erected petals : the fix 'filaments are pointed at the top, as long as the corolla, and come from the thalamus ; the an- therce are oblong, fhort, and upright : the ger- men is round, blunt, and triangular ; the fiylus is as long as the filaments ; the fiigma is erected : the capfula is globular and trilocular; the feeds are generally oval and angular. It thrives moft under bufhes of the Passerina hirfuta-, the ftem of which has many branches fimilar to thofe of the juniper ihrub, has no leaves, is round and diffufe ; the branches are full of leaves, and bent every way : the leaves grow alternately, are feffile, carnofe, fmall, ovato-lanceolated, depreffed in the middle, with a concave margin, woolly and white at the top, and dark-green below : the flowers have no pedunculi ; they are fmall, of a yellow colour, and come in great num bers from the fame buds with the leaves: in ftead of the calyx, which is wanting, are four or more leaves under the flowers : the corolla confifts of an infundibuli-foTm petal, whofe infide 64 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. infide is woolly ; the tube is cylindrical ; the limbus is quadrified and Ihorter than the tubej the lacinia are oval and reflected; the filaments are faftened to the tube, and four of themare a little lower than the other two ; the anthercs are almoft oval, they lie acrofs the filaments, and are compofed of two valves. This fhrub 'grows in the fir- woods like our juniper fhrub, and in other places out of town : it is called Torvicho here, but in other places Tomillo. Qn this fhrub lives the Melae majalis Linn. fegmentorum abdominis marginibus dorfalibus rubris. Saltamatos are a fpecies of Iocufts, fo called by the people here, which are to be met with in the above-mentioned fir-wood. They were of fo remarkable a fize, that, when fly ing, they looked like little birds, which they imitated farther in not fettling on the ground, but always on high trees, and often at fuch a height that they were fcarce vifible. Besides the Coccinella feptem punclata, I gathered many fcarce infefts, moft of which were deftroyed during my abfence from the inn, all the apartments being open to every body. SPAIN. 1751. 6$ body. Thofe that remained, and which I took cm-board with me, were, Scarabaus (facer Linn.) Itevis, thorace in- ermi, capite antico fexdentato. Habitat in are- nofis maritimis. Scarabtzus (typhosus Linn.) thorace tricorni, intermedia minore. In campis. Scarabaus (bilobus Linn.) thorace mutica, capite cornuto, elytris flriatis . Carabus totus niger, flrigis feptem in Jingulo elyiro muricatis. Tenebrio (muricatus Linn.) elytris muricatis. Papilio (rumina Linn.) tetrapus, alls ex coc- cineo, luteo, argenteo et nigro variegatis, primo- ribus rotundis. Papilio medius gaditanus ex nigro et fulphureo varius. Catesby. Onifcus (cifilus Linn.) abdomine foliis duobus obteclo, cauda femiovali. Habitat in pifcibus marinis. February the 8th, and the following days. As my greateft amufement was in the coun try about Port Mary, I went there again to day, and had fcarce gone in at my old land- Vol. I. F ford's, 66 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. lord's, when I found fomething new ; before the window was a plant which they called St. Jofeph's flower, and which is faid to grow hereabouts in low ground ; the fcapus was triangular, and the flowers quite white ; it was Allium triquetrum. I went without any com pany on the road towards Puerto Real, but was forced to return again on account of the rainy weather. The following plants I found in bloffom : In low places, v Geranium gruinum. Bellis annua, common daify. On the road. Anemone palmata. Antirrhinum bipunclatum, below the pal metto. Cijius Fumana. ' Tuberaria. falicif alius. On dry hills every-where. Satureja capitata (fine fore). Lavendula flcechas. Qml- SPAIN. 1751. 67 Ornithogalum umbellatum, ftar of Beth lehem. Ornithopus compreffus. Antirrhinum orontium, leaft fnap-dragon. Teucrium fruticans . Leucojum autumnale. Coronilla juncea . Hippocrepis eomofa, tufted horfe-fhoe-vetch. Anthyllis tetraphylla. Ruta graveolens, rue. Cifius hirtus, Ttwo fpecies of Ciflus, of falvifolius, /which the latter is called Ro in Spanifh, and is. a fmall fhrub which made but a poor appearance at that time : for the branches were of the fame colour as the ground they lay on, and fo were the leaves; but in March it furpaffed all its neighbours, by its large odoriferous white flowers. It began to rain harder and harder, which made me haften back ; but I turned into an other road, which led to the town of St. Lu cas. I here found about the gardens the Spar tium fpinofum, with its fine golden yellow flowers. At laft I was obliged to turn off to the left of the road, and came on a common, which, ex cepting fome little hillocks, was all under wa ter : upon it I found a plant till then quite un- F 2 known, 6B OS BECK'S VOYAGE. known, namely the Verbafcum OJbeckii Linn, of which I made the following defcription: the plant fpreads on all fides ; the ftalk lies on the ground, is undivided, triangular, and nervofe ; the leaves are oval, and cut into ir regular fegments; the upper leaves are lefs, almoft feflile, the lower ones have petiolit the peduncles are woolly, moft of them bifid, and come from the bottom of the leaves ; the calyx is deeply quinquefid, woolly, with lan ceolated fegments ; the corolla is rotated, the tube fhort ; the limbus quinquefid ; the five filaments are very fhort, and reft on a fquama, covering the germen ; the anihera are oblong, erefted, and longer than the filaments ; the germen is almoft round ; the .fiylus is longer than the filaments ; the fligma is entire and pointed : the fruit was not yet vifible : the whole plant had a fmell of mulk, and might probably find a place in the apothecary's fhop. At three o'clock in the. afternoon, I arrived at my inn quite wet ; but an hour after I accompanied fome of my countrymen who went out of town to buy lemons. I foon obferved a particular tree in a garden, which had nothing but a few crooked pods, with neither leaves nor flowers, and confequently nothing SPAIN. 1751. 69 nothing by Which it could be known. The Spanifh name of it is Aromas; and our induftri- ous Mr. Loefling, who travelled into America, at the expence of his Spanifh Majefty, in or der to make obfervations on natural hiftory, for fome years together, wrote to me, in his letter from Madrid, that it was the Mimofa Farneftana, a fpecies of fenfitive plant. One of the company faid, he had feen this fruit eaten in the Eaft in times of fcarcity. We walked from hence into a lemon plan tation, where the Tanacetum balfamita, vulgo Cojlmary, which is here caMcd-Terva de Santa Maria, and the wall-flower, or Cheiranthus cheiri, Were planted, and the latter in pots. Among the wild plants, the Anchufa officinalis, or officinal buglofs, and the Spergula pentan- dra, or fpurrey, were in plenty. Not far from the town, we paffed a well furrounded by a very high wall, round which there was a trough, for the cattle to drink. The well was covered with a fort of rufh (Juncus acutus) called Paron in Spanifh. At night we returned to our inn, where we paid F 3 a piaftre 70 O S B E C K'S V O Y A G E. a piaftre w a day for an open room and an ordinary. To this if you add fome other un avoidable expences, the income of three thou- fand copper dollars * for the whole voyage to China will not admit of many more amufe- ments on ihore. February the ioth. This morning I left the town with an inten tion to go on board our fhip ; but a fudden eaft-wind made us pafs her, and brought us to Cadiz, where, to our great furprize, we landed at nine o'clock the next morning. The way by land is much longer ; but you pafs through- two little infignificant towns, Puerto Real and Chiclana. I was glad to come from the boifterous fea into an agreeable garden ; the fummer- houfes of which were covered with our com mon ivy (Hedera helix), called Tedra in Spa nifh. w Rather more than four {hillings fterling. * A Copper dollar is about five pence, or five pence half penny fterling. Apis SPAIN. 1751* 71 A"pis violacea fought its nourifhment on the bean-flowers in the forenoon, but in the after noon it reftedon the vine-tendrils, or on the dry buihes, which were laid over the covered walks to keep off the heat of the fun. Thefe fum- mer-houfes were covered with the blue paflion- ¦flower (Pqffiflora cCsrulea) which had neither flowers nor fruit at- that time. Befides thefe hearts, there were Indian creffes (Tropteolum,) vulgo Naffiurtium, wild rofes, Ricinus. com munis, and borrage (Borrago officinalis) ; which are likewife common in our gardens. Spanish locufts, Called Grillo in Spain, are by the people of fafhion kept in cages called Grilleria ; whereas our locufts are not in the leaft efteemed, and fing their fong without being taken notice of* February the 15 th arid 1 6th* I again went to the Puerto de Sancla Ma ria, where I re-vifited the above-mentioned in clofed fir-wood, in which I found the fine Or chis, already withered ; but as I could find' no other plants' befides thofe I have already men- F 4 tioned, 72 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. tioned, I went into the open wood, which be gins at the fhifting fands,' and goes a good way into the country. It was not furrounded by a hedge, and I faw nobody in it except an honeft wood-man. In a . low place , I found a moft beautiful flower, which would be an ornament even to a green-houfe : this was Ophrys infeclifera adrachnites (labia trifido) : the root is a bunch of oblong bulbs, whereof thofe in the middle are longer than thofe on the outride : the ftalk is of the length of a fpan, green, and uncovered above the middle ; the leaves are green, thofe near the root are ovato-lanceolated, and four or more in num ber ; the braclecz are green, and are as long as the flowers ; the flowers are about three in number ; the three outward petals are oblong* and the two inner ones fmall, like teeth ; the under-lip is foftly lanated at top, dark-red, with very fine fpots, and cut into three parts ; the middlemoft lacinia is the kail, which makes the whole lip look quadrangular-heart- fliaped; the anther a are yellow, egg-fhaped, and oblong. ja* At laft I returned to the fhip ; and the next Sunday, feventeen of the crew received the Lord's-fupper before the fermon. March SPAIN. 1751. 73 March the ill and 2d. Rain and other circumftances had prevented me from going afhore : I therefore went with the Spanifh water-boats to Port St. Mary, and from thence immediately proceeded on the road to Port Real, to which town I had got towards the evening; but I returned, as I longed to be at my former inn again. I found the following plants in bloffom : On a dry hill. Anagallis monelli. Mercurialis tomentofa ; of this I found no more than two plants, one male, the other fe male ; as they were but a few yards from one another, the fructification might eafily be ef fected by means of the wind. The Conyza faxatilis did not as yet fhew its flowers. The meadows which had no inclofure were ornamented with Adonis annua, pheafant's-eye, which is one of our fineft garden-flowers. Lupinus 7^ OSBECK'S VOYAGE, ' Lupinus albus, — • varius, o v- r i ,. r > Species ot lupins. ' hirjutus, • — luteus, . Cerinlhe major. On the roads. Echium Creticum. Ciflus tuber aria, calycibus hifpidis, unguibuspe^ $alorum et calycibus punclatis. Cynogloffum cheirifolium, corolla inflexd cccrti* led. Anchufa anguflifolia. In low places* Chenopodium fruticofum (now Salfola frutU cofa), fhrub-ftone crop, or glafs-wort. Cynara humilis. Anthemis valentina. Arenaria rubra, purple fpurrey* 'Chryfanthemum coronarium. " fegetum, corn marygold* Near a ditch. Veronica anagallis aquatica, water-fpeedwell, or brook-lime. Near SPAIN. 1751. 73 Near the river. SaUcornia fruticofa, fait- wort. On hills. Scorpiurus fulcata, caterpillars, (the plant f» called.) Hyoferis radiata. . — hedypnoi's. • rhagadioloides. Rubus fruticofus, common blackberry. In a clay ground, on high grafs fields* Scrophularia fambucifolia ; and near it, Ammi Hifpanicum. -In the olive plantations, and other dry places* Cheiranthus trilobus. In holes, and the like places. • Carex ccefpitofa. Between the high-grafs on a barren .moun tain gre\v nothing but the Ophrys infeclifera my odes, labio quadrifido, fly- •orchis, the root confifts of two almoft round bulbs ; 76 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. bulbs; the ftalk is double-edged (anceps), flat and twifted; four leaves are at the root ; they are ovato-lanceolated ; the fifth is lanceolated, and ends below in a iheathj the braclea of every flower is as long as the pericarpium; the three outward petals are oblong, With reflected margins, and the two inner ones equally broad; the upper lip is bigger than ufual in the other fpecies, the lower or under-lip is quadrilaciniated, very much reflected on the margin, foftly lanated towards the point, and of a chefnut-brown colour, acrofs which runs a ihining ftripe ; the two middlemoft lacinia are the longeft ; the filaments are thread-fhaped ; the anthercs are oval, and yellow. In the evening I had the honour of fpeak- ing to two Spanifh priefts, one of whom offer ed to accompany me to the town of St. Lucar, but I was hindered from going by the night and other circumftances. The next day I went on-board, and this was the laft time that I faw this agreeable place. March SPAIN. 17 si. 77 March the 6th, On my arrival at Cadiz, I faw the Hedyfarum coronarium, or French honey-fuckle, in plenty. The Spaniards call it Soya, and the French Saint fain y ; it was brought to town in great bundles, as food for the cattle : the Tillaa procumbens, or the fmall annual houfe-leek, on every wall. March the i6th. I went up the Gulph of Cadiz, in the boat belonging to Captain Eckeberg, to a placewhere frefh water coujd be got as eafily as at Puerto de Sancla Maria, although the way to the fhip called The Peace was fomewhat longer, which ftiip the above-mentioned Captain brought hi ther to fell on the Swedifh Eaft-India Com pany's account, as fhe was now reckoned too fmall for that trade. We paffed the Spanifh filver-fleet and the little caftle Pontal, where y What we call St. Foin in England is the Hedyfarum Onobrychis ; the Hedyfarum Coronarium is planted for orna ment in our gardens. 2 the 78 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. the Swedes may bury their dead for a certain fum : when we went out of our boat near the, watering-place, I was delighted to find fome natural productions which' I had never feen before. Here were great dry heaths on all fides, which I fhould have been very glad to have gone through ; but the remainder of the day only allowed of a partial examination. We went towards the town of I/la, and found the following fcarce plants : Spartium fpinofum. Genifta Anglica, needle-furze, or petty whin, called Efpino in Spain. Piftacia lentifcus. Smilax afperd. Ulex Europceus, furze. Orobanche major, broom-rape. — : ramofa, branched D°, which had the following characters : the ftalk is about a fpan long, entire, fmooth, and fucculent ; the braclea are lanceolated, there is one of them under every flower ; the calyx is quddrifid ; its four lacinia are linear and hairy at the margin ; the corolla is monopetalous and gaping (tin- gens) ; the tube is almoft cylindrical, and as long as the calyx ; the faux is open (dehifcens); the upper-lip is bifid, and emarginated before; , 5 the SPAIN. 1751. 79 the lower-lip is trifid, with equal lacinia ; two neclaria are in the under-lip, and fometimes on the fides ; the filaments are four, which are commonly pretty long, and almoft all equal in fize ; the anther a; are white, didy- mous, erected, joined into a femi-cylinder, and end below the fligma in a ihort briftle (feta) ; the germen is oblong ; the fiylus is pointed ; the fligma is elevated, great, bifid, and pointed downwards ; the capfulah oblong, unilocular, and bivalve ; the feeds are fmall and numerous. Ophrys bracleis cymbiformibus , the root . . . . . . . ; the ftalk is of the length of a fpan (fcapus fpithamaus); the leaves are three or more in number, their fhape is ovato-lanceo- lated, they ftand alternately ; the braclea are .carinated, and like the leaves on the ftalk not variegated; the innermoft petals are fmall, oval, connivent, and not quite green : the up per-lip is the leaft, and coloured at the bottom ; the lower-lip is fucculent, oval, blunt, or emarginated with inflected fides, and coloured, except one part which is green, in the two op- pofite points ; the filaments are thread- fhaped, one of them is fixed to the lower-lip, and the Others to the outward petal ; the anthera are globular, »• OSBECK'S VOYAGE. globular, and yellow ; the germen is furrowed. J only found a fingle plant, which was perhaps unnatural. Serapias lingua, baftard hellebore: the root confifts of two hanging oval, black, bulbs; the ftalk, and the flowers, are twifted to the left ; the former is covered with about feven linear lanceolated leaves, which are red fpotted, like the ftalk itfelf ; the braclea are of equal fize with the petals, and like them lanceolated, pointed (acuminata?), pale-red on the upper- fide, but not dark-red at the bottom as the pe tals ; the two innermoft petals are broader at the bottom, waved (undulata), narrow towards the point, fharp-pointed, and with entire mar gins : the lips are long and red ; the upper has narrow reflected points ; the lower is dark-red, large, and lanceolated, has incifions on both fides towards the bottom, and its furface co vered with fome dark hair ; the filaments are very fhort and yellow ; the anthera are green: it grows on the plains among the above-men tioned Afphodelus, page 59. Serapidis lingua varietas minor, is to be met With along with the former. Here SPAIN. 1751. gi Here- I fourid likewife the Ciflus falvif alius, - and in the garden was the My of ot is apula. I ob ferved the following things- in this plant : the calyx has a thick wool upon its fegments ; the corolla is quinquefid-; the tube is long and linear ; the limbus is quinquefid, with oval la- cinia ; the filaments are faftened at the bottom of the corolla, and are hardly vifible on ac count of their fhortnefs ; the anthera are very fmiall and oblong ; the ftalk is of a fpan's length ; the leaves grow alternately on the ftalk, are eqtially broad, have a prominent line below, and are rough. At laft we reached the town of Ifl-a, which is a little unfortified place, lefs than any I have hitherto mentioned* It. is about a quarter pf a Swedifh mile off the fea-fhore, in a plain country ; it has on one fide a barren field,- and .on the other a river : the houfes are not very large, but ftrong ; the ftreets are broad and fine. The {Spartium junceuni) Spanifh broom fhewed its admirable flpwers over a garden-wall which was higher than a man's head ; this plant is dif coverable at a great diftance by its fine fmell. We lodged with anEnglifhmanwho lived jn this town ; he accompanied us over a bridge, be- Vol. L G rween $2 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. tween the town and peninfula of Cadiz, to fliew us a fail-cloth manufactory which is car ried on by gypfies and other prifoners, beth men, women, and children. Thefe people are locked up in their prifons on holidays, from whence they infeft paffengers through the rails, in the fame manner as in Cadiz. In the yard of this building were the foldiers, who had mounted guard there. We were ob liged to return without effecting any thing, and I only faw the Arenaria rubra, and fome common plants around the Englifhman's houfe, ¦ which was the laft on this fide. After dinner I was obliged to return to my congregation, on account of the next Sunday. I returned through a meadow, where I faw the following plants in bloffom : Cratagus oxyacantha, hawthorn. Ricinus communis. Convolvulus althaoides. Aftragalus baticus. Heraclium fphondylium, cow-parfnep. Maha mauritiana. Hypocharis maculata, fpotted hawkweed. Plant ago coronopus, buckfhorn plantain. la SPAIN. 1751. g; In holes I found : Ranunculus muricatus. Crepis fcetida, ftinkirig hawkweed* In the fields : Eritillaria meleagris, fritilary* Poterium fanguiforba, burnet. Anthoxanthum odoratum, vernal-grafs* • Teucrium fruticans. Refeda glauca. — — lutea ? (tetragyna procumbens). Briza media, quaking-grafs. Gehtaurea fpharocephala. Afparagus officinalis, afparagus, which is cut here in the fields, and fold when young for the fame purpofe as in, our country^ Near the fhore the following plants were iii bloffom : , Hyofcyamus albus. Corrigiola Uttoralis. Statice armeria, thrift. At night the water ihone in feveral places, which was owing tp fome pieces of rotten ray or other fiih. G % March S4 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. March the 18th. To-day I got the Meloe. variegata from a gen tleman who had been near I/la. He faid, that when he faw this infect, the Spaniards about "him advifed him not to take it into his hand, ©n account of its bite being poifonous. They feigned to take great precaution in catching this pretended noxious animal j probably in hopes of receiving a reward from ftrangers. Euphorbia ferrata? I likewife received from the fame place: its umbella univerfalis was trifid, triphyllous, with a cordato, lanceo lated, reflected leaf. And alfo the Scilla Peruviana. March the 20 th.- On Weighing the anchor, fome crabs were pulled up; they were Cancer brachyurus, hir* futijfimus, fubovatus ^ and likewife Chiton lave, which Petiver calls Ofcct* brion : the fhell is carinated, and confifts of eight tranfverfal pieces, which are furrowed tranfverfly j SPAIN. 1751. 85 tranfverfly ; the margin of the fhell is foft, the reft is hard. The animal is flat, foft, and covers the inner part of the fhell ; which, when touched, it contracts, fo that one point . touches the other* Cancsr brachyurus, ovatus, fpinofus,poflice Javis. In the room of our furgeon, whom we left fick in Spain, we took an Englishman called Thomas Druit with us. A Spanifh paffenger alfo, Jofeph Garcias Domingo Rivero, a mer chant's fon from St. Ander, about twenty years of age, came on-board in order to go to Manilla. Animals of all forts, viz. oxen, hogs, chicken, pigeons, &c. were in fo great plenty in our fhip, ^ that we ftill had fome of them left on our return from China. After a ftay of ten weeks in Spain, We fail ed at fix o'clock at night from Cadiz, with a good wind, though the eaftern trade-wind is feldom found below the thirtieth degree of latitude. G 3 Th? 86 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The weather was very changeable, during our ftay in Spain : fometimes it was dry almoft a whole week, fometimes foggy, often for three or four days together rainy, then we had thunder,, and it was almoft always ftormy. March the 23d, 330 15' N. L. We little expected to meet with our Hoopoe (Upupa epops Linn.) fo far from Sweden. This bird approached our fhip to-day, and went along with us a good way. I have before feen it in, Spain ; and in order to fhew, what -altera tion the feafon or the climate might caufe,, I drew up the following defcription : the beak is angulated, compreffed, arcuated, long, fharp: bpth the jaws (mandibula) are equally long, •and triangular : the noflrils are oblong ; the head is adorned with a creft of yellowifh brown feathers with black tops, of the length of the beak; though the middlemoft feathers (of which there are twenty-four) are fome what- the lpngeft : the neck, the breaft, the belly, and the foremoft part of the back, are of a yellowifh brown : the vent feathers are white, and the back black, with white ftripes ; but the coverts CANARY ISLANDS. 1751. 87 coverts of the tail are quite white. The fix- teen quill feathers are black, with broad white crofs ftripes ; the nine foremoft of which have one, the tenth two, and the reft three or four white lines a-crofs, excepting the three leffer coverts of the wing. The eight feathers of the tail are black, and have at top and below a white ftripe : the thighs, and the beak as far as the noftrils, are covered with little yel- low-brownifh feathers : the feet and toes are dark grey ; of the three fore-toes themiddle- moft is the longeft, the reft .are of the fame length with the back- toe. This bird was of the fize of a pigeon- I was told that the Spaniards called it Coeds on account of the note which is peculiar to this bird. March the 26th. At half an hour after fix in the morning, we faw "the Ifle of Teneriffe, (in N. N. W.) which belongs to the Spaniards, with the other Canary ifles, Canaria, Palma, Gomora, Lance- rota, Ferro, Port Sanclo, Forta Ventura, and Madeira. Teneriffe feems very barren towards the fea fide, on account of the high mountains without trees ; but it is faid to be very agree- G 4 able ff8 OS BECK'S VOYAGE.* able further up the country, and to prddtiee: a quantity of wheat, lemons, oranges^ but particularly grapes. The city of Sancla Cruz lies on the fea^fhore ; we paffed pretty near to it, and counted in its harbour about fourteen fhips at anchor, one of which hoifted the Swedifh,! one the Englifh, and one the French flag, after we had hoifted ours. This town js well known'; we fetch many fweet wines from thence, fuch as Canary, fack, and mal- vafy, or malmfey ; and carry them the Haves' with which they make their pipes. In the laft war, Spain had the treafure of the filver fleet; in this harbour : from whence alfo our Eaft India merchants fetched the money neceffary for the Chinefe trade. The city is furrounded by walls, ramparts, and other fortifications. The bifhop of the Great Canary is faid to have chofen this place for his fummer refi- dence. The Pico Teneriffe, which is fituated at twenty-eight degrees, and twelve minutesr northern latitude, and thirty-four degrees, and fifteen minutes weftern longitude from Up- fal, was, at twelve o'clock, two or three leagues off to the N. W. this mountain is reckoned among the higheft in the world. It lay on the other fide of the ifle, but was ne- vertheicfs very conspicuous above the other mountains, CANARY ISLANDS. 1751. 8Mcfor. 3. ct c/un&teyia^r^ o/^Tonad . CANARY ISLANDS. 1751. 105 not only not touched, but alfo preferved by it againft all their enemies. Pfalm cvi. ver. ii. -" Who can utter the mighty acls of the Lord? " Who can jhew forth all his praife ?" This fcarce and remarkable fifh I had an opportunity of defcribing : it is Scomber cceruleo-albus ciri- gulis tranfverfis nigrisfex, dorfo monopterygio. See the Memoirs of the Swedifh Academy of Scjen.ces, for the year 1755, vol. xvi, p. 71. of the Swedifh edition. Or Gaflerojleus Duclor, Linn. Syft. Nat. a fpe cies pf ftickle-back. Pilote pifcis, by Ray Pifc. 15-6. Vid. tab. 12. The membrana branchiofiega has fix jays : the operculum branchiarum confifts of two en tire griftles : the elevations on the fides of the tail are fharp and foft : the dorfal fin begins on the middle of the back and ends near the tail : if has thirty rays, whereof the three firft are hard, fhort, and fcarcely perceptible ; the next following are longer ; but the reft keep decreafing, and are divided : the pecloral fins are fmall, and have nineteen rays: the anal fin has fixteen rays : the tail is furcated, and has twenty-fix rays, with black tops : the head is narrow : the forehead is blunt : the jaws are about equal in length, yet the lowerfeems io6 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. feems longer when the fifh opens its -mouth : the mouth is oblong and fmall : the teeth are very fmall, and very numerous in the jaws ; in the palate are none : the eyes are fmall and round : the pupilla is black ; the iris is fhining like gold and filver : the back is blue, the belly is a filver colour: the head, the belly, and even the tail, are ornamented with feven blue- ifh black lines : the fcales are extremely fmall, and flick very fail. The ioth of April, i° 50' N. L. The Southern-crofs, called the Croziers by the Englifh failors, is a conftellation confifting of four ftars, of which two are of the fecond, and two of the third magnitude. It is fituated at the hindmoft part of the conftellation call ed Centaur, which appears on the fouth fide of the line, as foon as the polar ftar difap- pears. This crofs we now began to difcover. The nth of April, 8' N. L. In the afternoon we pafled the Line. On this occafion the old cuftom was obferved; namely, ABOUT THE LINE. 175 1. 107 •namely, "all the men were called upon the deck, and fome pails full of water were thrown -upon thofe who had not croffed the Line, be fore, and thofe who. have very often partake of the bathing. It appears from Holms's Defcription of New Sweden, that this cere mony was ufuaT in 1642, on his voyage tp America. The firft caufe that gave rife to it is unknown. It is true, in the neighbourhood of the Line, it is ufual to wafh the fhips every morning and evening with fea-water, that. the intolerable heat may be lefs noxious ; which* particularly if the failors drink brandy, is fufficient to make them mad. But we cannot from hence derive the ceremony of drenching diem in water, as it is a practice more likely to oceafipn difeafes than to prevent them. Afterwards all thofe who had been here for the firft time collected a fum of money among themfelves, to ferve as a treat at a Go thenburgh tavern, in cafe they ihould return ; and it amounted to three hundred and fixty- four copper dollars, and fifteen ocres. An other collection was made for the orphan-houfe at Gothenburgh ; every one contributed to it, and it amounted to eight hundred and thirteen copper dollars, and twenty-four ocres. I The i»8 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. The 14th of April, 5° 16' Southern Latitude, The wind called the fouth-eqfl trade-wind was of great ufe to us at this time. This wind has this name becaufe it blows from the fouth-eaft, or nearly, all the year long. It forwards the fhips on the fide of America very much, till they get a weft wind at about twen ty-two degrees of fouthern latitude, which carries them on ftill farther. April the 26th.. About half an hour after nine we paffed the tropic of Capricorn. We faw flying-fiflies (Exoccetus volitans). May the 2d, 310 19' S.L. J Malmucks was the name given to a fort of brown gulls, with fhort wings and white bellies, which flew about the fhip ; and we faw them afterwards in other places, but were never able to catch one of them. The ABOUT THE LINE. 175 1. 10^ The fouth-eaft wind, which generally turns weft about the tropic, did not turn before laft night. May the 5th, 330 16' S. L. Several forts of birds flew about our fhip, and in particular the Albatros, or Diomedea exulans : their fize is that of a goofe ; they are white every where, excepting the quills and tail, which are black at the end, but white at bottom. We found them alfo in other places, viz. in thirty-fix degrees, and likewife in thirty-five degrees and eighteen minutes of fouthern latitude. Cape Pigeons are a fpecies of birds fo called by mariners ; they only refemble pigeons in fize : their country is the Cape of Good Hope. A great many of thefe birds flew to and fro, and kept us company as far as the fouthern tropic. This bird is the Procellaria Capenfis Linn, or the mid dling fpotted Petrel of Edwards's Birds, 90. t. 90. part 2. The following is its defcription : The iw OS DECK'S VOYA G E. The fize h that of a common dove : it has tery fine black and white down on its body : the bill is black, narrow, conical, and fhort : fhe upper jaw is pointed, bent, and gibbous kl the middle near the noftrils. About the noflrils are elevated lines running lengthways, but not parallel : the lower jaw is ftreight, flat, fomewhat elevated on the point, not- very fharp-pointed, compreffed, and has par allel incifions towards the point ; below cover ed with a Jkin of a dirty black eOloQrv the' Jkin within the bill is whitifh : the teeth are foliated* arid ftand crofs-ways : the tongue is whitifli* fmooth, lacerated near the bafis, broad* truncated at its extremity, and fits the bill exactly : the epiglottis is fu-reated ; the' body below is quite white. The head and all about the eyes is covered: the upper part of the neck is black, as is likewife the fore part? of fhe back ; becaufe thfe feathers are grey5> with black tips : the hindmoft part of the back is black, fpotted with white, and the feathers are white with black extremities ; the under part of the neck is commonly white,. but fometimes a little blaekifh* when the fea- thersdiave black tips. This is perhaps a differ ence of fex. The wings are long; belotf white, ABOUT THE LINE. 1751. in white, with white fides ; on the upper fide black with two large white fpots : the quills are white with black points; the three firft are the longeft ; twelve or more leffer ones are joined by them, and next to thefe again ten longer fecondary ones : the outride of the quills is black ; as the next decreafe in fize, fo their black margin decreafes, and the reft of the ihort ones have only black tips : the greater coverts of the wings are white with black tips, and the leffer ones are quite black : the lower coverts are quite white, except thofe at the extremity, which are black. The four teen outward feathers of the tail are ihort, and white with black tips ; the others are of the fame number, and are covered at the top and below : the thighs are covered to the knees, partly with the vent feathers, and part-? ly with their own down : the toes are palmat- ed, and, like the legs, of a dirty black co lour: the web of the toes is very flightly notched : the outward toe is the longeft, and has five articulations ; the middlemoft has four articulations, of which thofe two which are neareft the bafe of the toe are white on one fide: the cut ward toe of the three fore toes has but two joints, and is whitifhon the inner fide: the fourth or back toe As the- ihorteft, for • it ii2 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. it has but one joint or nail ; the laft articula* tions of the toes are hooked (hamofi.) This bird makes a noife like a parrot, and throws up train oil when touched. It is caught without any trouble, with fome tarred firing, or a piece of lard on the fifhing-rod; They are feldom eaten, and only in great ^ne- ceflity. We once boiled and tafted fome of them, but they weEe extremely oily. The two congeries of ftars, of which the one which is near the Polus ecliptica is Called Nubecula major, and the other Nubecula minor v are well known to our Eaft India navigators f. They obferve how the one, which appears at night lower on the horizon, gradually mounts up higher than the other ; and from this they can tell the hour of the night on the fouth fide of the Line, as our common people can by the turning of the Great Bear. May the 6th, 340 S. L. We Were obliged to drefs in our winter cloaths, for the cold was no lefs intenfe than f Our failors call them the Magellanic clouds. in CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 1751. 1 1 3 in Sweden in winter time. This change occa fioned many difeafes, and no lefs than' twenty- two men were laid up at once, moft of them having an ague ; fome had the head-ach, and others different complaints. The ftorm-finch, (Procellaria aquinoclialis) has got this name from feamen for fhewing the bad omen which its appearance forebodes. A couple of thefe little birds accompanied us* and always flew quite clofe to the furface of the water, if the fea was ever fo rough. We faw them likewife the followipg days. May the 16th, 36° 22' S. L. The trumpeter, Zeterniark, a comely and decent young man, died about noon of an ague, and was buried in the fea, about four o'clock in the afternoon. May the 18th, 3 6° 8' S. L. Although the abovementioned ftorm* finches were but- very fmall* yet they were bold enough to feaft' along with the larga fea« birds, when we threw the guts of pigs over- Vol. I, I board. ii4 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. board. They were generally firft and laft on fuch an occafion. ¦May the 21ft, 35° 15' S, L. We caught a fort of dog-fifh to-day, which L have often heard of : it was by far larger than any of this kind we had feen till then : its colour was grey, like fteel, and white below. This Squalus catulus, Linn, or lefs, dog-fifh, had the following characters : The body without the tail is eight feet long : the colour of the back is grey, like lead, and that of the belly white, without fpots : the mouth is thin, oblong, and near it are two fmall noftrils : below, the head it has feveral fmall apertures: the teeth ftand alternately, and their edges are flightly indented : the up per jaw is the longeft : the teeth in the firft row are ftreight, like thofe of the above de- fcribed dog-fifh (Squalus canicula), but they are more fharp pointed, and larger below: the teeth of the fecond and third rows are bent: the eyes are black, fhining, and quite covered with a white fkin, as foon as the fifh is dead : - CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 1751; ii$ dead: both dorfal fins are fhort, and of the* colour of pewter : the length of the pecloral fins exceeds a foot : they have parallel riiargins, but a joint on the infer tion ; they are white below, and above of the fame colour with the back : the ventral fins are joined near the anus ; they are White, fhort, and cylindrical at their infertiOn : the anal fin is of the fame co lour with the dorfal fin, and is very fliort : the fail is two feet long* and lead coloured.; This whole animal fllines, and is covered with a fine fkin. The heart and the eyes were in motion a lohg while after it feemed to be dead. One of its bowels was like a long firing of pearls, the joints of which were of the fize' of acorns, and contained thick blood. On one of the pectoral fins many chryfdlides mu- eronata, thorace imbricate, were fixed. Bu£ the pilot-fifhes which accompanied the Squalus canicula did not attend on this fpecies. May the 2 2(1, 3V 14* S» ti It is in this latitude, that a feaman iriuft be ttiore cautious than any where elfe, for' the leaft doud often changes the1 firieft weather iritd I 2 fuch n6 OSBECK'S VOYAG E. fuch a ftorm, that the bare mafts are fufficient without any fails. The continent of Africa began now to ap pear to us, between N. N. E. and E.N. E. About five o'clock in the afternoon we buried one of our men, who died of an ague. We now thought that Cape Falfo, as being the neareft land, was eight or nine miles off, N. by E. We found that (by heaving the lead) We had ground at ninety fathoms depth ; and' here we fifhed for cod, but in vain. May the 23d, 350 46' S. L. About one o'clock in the afternoon, we again found ground at ninety fathoms depth. The effects of the deeeafed were fold by auction. May the 25th, 36" 56' S. L. , One of our men, who had been fick for fome weeks together, died of an ague, and was buried the next day before the fermon. - ttr May AFRICA. 1751. ii7 May the 27th, 370ip'S.L. , Six dolphins h followed our fhip, and gene rally were on the furface of the water. I never faw a finer fifh than this for the variety •of its colours. The dolphin is the fame in a large fize, as the gold-fifh is in a fmall. May the 29th, 370 33' S. L. This morning, about two o'clock, I faw an eclipfe of the moon, which began on the fouth-eaft fide, and continued till three quar ters paft three o'clock, when only the north- weft border was eclipfed. The moon after- h The reader muft here take care not to confound this •dolphin {which is the Coryphtena hippuris, Linn, and the Dorado of the Portuguefe) with the dolphin of the ancients, (Delphinus delpbis, Linn.) which is a cetaceous fifh. If by gold-fijb, Mr. Ofbeck means, as we do, to exprefs the Cypri- nus auratus, Linn, one cannot but wonder that £o good a naturalift fhould ufe fo little precifion in his account as to fay, " The dolphin is the fame in a large fize, as &c," merely from the refemblance of colour : for the Dorado and gold-fifh are fo little alike as to be not only of different genera, but alfo of different or fines : for the former is a thoracic fifh, the latter an abdominal. I 3 Wards nS. OSBECK'S VOYAGE, wards continued to increafe on both eaft and weft fide, fo that fhe was full about five p'clock. 'Yet before the end of the eclipfer a fog, as the certain fore-runner of an immi nent ftorm, began to increafe more and more; and the ftorm accordingly happened when the fky was quite covered. At a great diftance from the fhip we faw fome animals which were faid to be fea- lions ; but I could not diftinguifh whether they were fifh or bellua marina. According to the figure pf the fea-lion in Anfon's Voyage, it feems x.Qh be a fpecies pf feal. Thofe which that admir ral caught and ufed as provifion near the ifle pf Juan Fernandez were twelve or twenty feet Jpng, and eight or ten thick. June the 7th, 37? 30' S. L. About eight o'clock at night we heard, at feveral times, a deep and harfh npife. We fupppfed this was the voice of fome large fifh, and perhaps of that which we faw the next day. Some faid that they faw its way, and jthat it fhone a little in. the dark. This light might probably arife from the yiolent motion which Between Africa and America. 1751. 119 which its fwift paffage gives to the water ; for in the night fomething ihone about our ihip : yet this might alfo be occafioned by many forts of little worms, dead fifhes, and other putrified bodies. June the 12th, 36° 54' S. L. The fea raged exceflively, and was driven by the wind, as the fnow is on the land. The colour of the waves, and their height indeed, refembled hills of fnoW. At three o'clock in the afternoon a great body of water burft into the cabbins through the windows, and fpoiled all the fugar, cloths, books, &c. which it met with. This accident put us into great confufion. Such was the reception we met with at the rocks of St. Paul and Amfterdam, from whence, the next night, a ftorm attended with hail fo effectually helped us away, that the reefed mizzen and foreTails only, were fufficient, whereas at other times we were obliged to add twenty more fails, June the 14th, 35* 16' S. L. We faw fome fea-grafs fwiriiming by the fhip ; it was perhaps afucus, for our navigator? I 4 call 1:0 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. call .this whole genus fea-grafs ; which is one of the fureft figns that rocks, iflands, or lands, are near. June the 15th, 340 1' S. L. Anas nigra Linn, or a Scoter, almoft of the fize of a goofe, was feen to-day, and after wards in thirty degrees of fouthern latitude. They look brown at a diftance ; the head and feet black ; and the bill white : the wings are greyifh at top, but blacker below. June the 21ft, 300 49' S. L. We affembled as ufual to attend our morn ing fervice ; but a hidden ftorm made us leave. off, when we had fcarce begun. June the 22d, 290 34' S. L, A Grampus, or great fifh of fome fathoms length, which fwam about the fhip backwards and forwards, cnce fwiftly paffed before her, though the ihip failed very faft ; but at laft Was forced to give the precedence to us 5 where. From St. Paul to Java. 175 r. 121 whereupon it (and perhaps fome others in its company) fpouted the water up to fuch a height, that it was both heard and feen at a great diftance. July the 3d, 2 30 S. L. The fea being fmooth, our failors Were employed in cleanfing the Ihip. Some -of the Lepas anatifera Linn, had faftened themfelves during our voyage to the ihip, and particularly to the rudder, but were now all deftroyed. As foon as the water paff- es over them, they ftretch out their tentacula like hooks to get their food by, which is ei ther the conferva rivularis which grows about them, or fome other things which the water carries to them. The reafon which made the ancients call this lepas Concha anatifera, ap pears from Grew's Mufeum, p. 148. where he fays, that fome affert it as a certainty, that in the Orcades were fome worms, which grew In hollow trees, and got* in time, a head, feet, wings and feathers, as perfectly as a fea- bird; ,and that they became as large as geefe1, 1 Dr. Grew did not believe this abfurd tale of the Bernd-i cie ; but old Gerrarde afferts, that he has .feen with his own eves the feveral flages of this metamorphofis. The. T22 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The animalcules inhabiting it had the follow ing fhape : v They are of the Tritati kind, and have ten pair of comb-like arms, which are bent towards each other like Jkrews, are black or grey, connected together at bottom, and are an inch long; each pair is inferted below, and entire. Befides thefe ten pair of arms, there is a fingle arm in the middle, like a worm, which is hairy at the top, and is per haps theinftrument they make ufe of to bring that kind of food to their mouth which they catch by their tentacula. Befides, there are a pair of arms on each fide, which are like the abovementioned ten, but ftand a little more off, are fhorter, and as clear as water. The mouth confifts of feven valves, which are ferrated on the infide : on the fides of the mouth are fome fcales, that are like the former; they all flick to an oblong bladder : the fhell flicks to the ihip by means of a wrinkled leather-like tube, made of a fpongy fubftance, which is tough and blueifh, and has ten or more wrinkles : its fhell is of the lepas kind, bi valve k, oval, compreffed, water coloured, k Linnaeus in the laft (twelfth) edition of his Syftema Nature, afcribes to the Lepas anatifera five, fmooth, com preffed valves. F, and From St. Paul to Java. 1751. 123 and with yellow futures ; each valve is divided in two by a crofs future, of which that is the leaft which forms the fummit : the fide which opens has yellow linear edges : but the back defcribes almoft a circle : the ridge of the back is brown, and has on both fides black and yellow futures : the bottom is faffron co loured. Adelphozion I call a fpecies of worms which were joined together in the water by hundreds, and we at firft took them to be fnakes ; but when we caught them by a hook they parted : each of them was an inch long ; fcarce as broad as a finger ; had compreffed fides, and at firft fight looked like a little fifh without fins : the whole body was foft, pellu cid, but a little more folid at the ends : there were no bones in them, and only a fine finew pr fide line ; and a red brown edge quite in the middle fomewhat diftant from the fnout. As I wanted time and opportunity to confider them more attentively, I preferved fome in fpirits, and others in fea water ; but they loft their former figure in both. I afterwards faw, a drawing of many worms connected together, at Mr. Affiftant Braad's, who met with them jn_ his voyage to Swatte, in the fhip called^ The 124 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. The Gothic Lion, which perhaps only differed fr©m thefe in age ; but they had, for the moft part, a rhomboidal figure. July the 6th, 190 5' S. L. We were come fo far, that we expected to fee New Holland foon ; but were difappointed, and fell into a very good trade-wind.- July theoth, 140 15' S. L. Two tropic birds (Phaeton athereus), fo called by feamen becaufe they live within the tropics, were obferved foaring in the air at a confiderable height, as larks do. They feem ed to be large and white, with a long narrow tail, confifting of a few feathers, with fmooth, black edges, and a red bill. The defcription pf this bird may be met with further on. July the nth, 90 37' S. L, One of the greateft inconveniencies that attend a voyage to the Eaft Indies is, that worms fpoil both meat and drink. In our ihipi ASIA. 1751. 125 fliip-bread fome worms had lived ever fince the beginning of May, and they now were of the following figure : the larva was white, fome what hairy, and had a briftly tail : the fore part was flat ; the hind part cylindrical : the three- pair of feet were yellowifh, and fixed near the head : the body has twelve articulations, the head included. The whole head, with the next articulation, and the tail, are dark brown: the jaws are prominent: the antenna ihort and fetaceous. I have alfo found fmooth ones, lefs than the former, of a light brown colour, and middling ones likewife. fmooth. The head and tail of the latter was brown : but the former was not punctated ; and the articulation neareft to the head was not brown as in the former. Perhaps thefe are only varieties arifing from different ages. July the 1 2th, 1° 53' S. L. We now got fight of Afia, and firft of all of the ifle of Canibas, the eaftern point of which was about twelve o'clock N. E.byN. the weftern N. and the middle N. N. E. and it was reckoned two or three leagues from us. The eaftern part of Java' was to us E. N.E. u6 OSBFCK'S VOYAGE, N. E. and the weftern-N.-N. W. We after- wards failed along the coaft of Java. Some thoufands of porpeffes (Delphinus phocana) were playing about our fhip, and made a great noife in leaping. They feemed a yard and half long, and of a ferrugineous colour : the tail is horizontal, and the dorfal fin lacerated behind. The air was very cold here at firft, though the climate is one of the hotteft. This per haps may be occafioned by a draught of air between the mountains. The country is covered, both vallies and* hills, With green trees, the reflection of which gives' a green eaft to the fea, even at'a diftance from land. The fun ihone very hot, fo that a vapour rofe from the land like the fmoak which is feen in our country when woods are burnt down; yet the air along the coaft was very cold. July the 13th. Bfbbi, from; the Englifh word -booby, is a fort-- of bird fo. called by thofe of our- nations who ABOUT JAVA. 1751. ut who fail to the Eaft Indies, becaufe, though they frequently fettle on fhips, yet they never fly away if any one attempts to catch them ; but only cry out, bite, and fpout out the train-oil, or fifhes, which they have fwal- lowed. Such a bird we caught to-day with. our hands, which enabled me to know it better than merely by name. It was-the male of the Pelecanus Pifcator Linn. Its bill is pointed, elevated, narrow, blueifh on the out- fide, has a ferrated margin, and is two. palms long: the throat and all about its eyes are without feathers, and covered, asL the bill* with a blueifh fkin-: the upper jaw is elevated, and has on both fides a furrow running towards the point, which is bent, and has a promi* nence: near- the head the bill has an elevated part: the lower., jaw* is narrow and ftreight *• the tongue, which is faftened to it, is arrow- iliaped : the cere is light blue: the noftrils are wanting, unlefs the notch at the bafo of the bill can- be taken for them: theipupik of the eyes are black ; their hides . are white, and furrounded' with black : the heady the neck, back, the upper fide of the wing,, and the inner margin thereof, together with the ;ail, are quite black; the foea/l^ the belly* and 128 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. and the uropygium are white, waved with blackifh grey : the down and the lower coverts of the wings, in particular the ten longeft and innermoft, are white : all the fixty-four quill feathers are very black, with whitifh grey be low : the firft quill feather is the longeft ; the next to it decreafe gradually : there are ten quill feathers on the firft joint; on the fecond thirty ; and on the third or innermoft four teen ; and more fecondary feathers. The upper coverts are tipped with grey : the lower are dirty white, with little black edges: the tail has fourteen feathers : the thighs are co vered with grey feathers : the legs naked and whitifh, like the four toes : the Jirfl toe has five, the fecond four, the third three, and the fourth two joints : no back-toe is to be met with : the heart is oval ; the liver is long. The bird is the fize of a raven. The female is fomewhat lefs : the bill is more ferrated, and reddifh towards the head: the neck and the upper coverts of the wing are White : the three firft quill feathers are quite black, as in the male : the next following ones are grey, fpotted ; and the laft white, mixed with black : the back, the coverts of the wings, and the thirteen feathers of the tail are white, . fpotted NEAR JAVA. 1751. n9 fpotted with a reddifh yellow: the middlemoft feather in the tail is the longeft : the toes and legs are red : the reft the fame with the male : Whether this is the female of the firft de- fcribed bird, I leave to others to examine. It may be compared with the Anfer Baffanus of Albin, vol. i. p. 86. I found a black k Hip- pobofca Upon it. Both thefe birds were exceedingly lean, and not eatable on account of their oily tafte. In flying they fpread their tails like a fan, and bend their long necks towards the fide they fly to. They fettle upon fhips, and fometimes ftay on them (if not feared away) whilft they fail many miles. They are much plagued with lice, and for that reafon are not agreeable to keep. Thefe lice run very fwiftly, and foon creep upon the men. They are fmall and white, and black on the middle : fome are brown ; and fome have four long feet. At five o'clock in the afternoon, Wincopers point was N. by W. and the middle of the ifle N. N. E. to us. Flying-fijhes were to be met with here. k Hippobofi ^-abound on the Hirundo apus, or fwift. Vol. I. K Ojj 13d OS BECK'S VOYAGE. On a little ifle, which we paffed by in the dark, we obferved fti'ong breakers. July the 14th. To-day we had clear weather and but little. wind. In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we found ground at ninety fathoms depth. The Cape of Java, which we paffed at" nine o'clock before noon, was at firft N. N. W. to us, and at ten it was N. by W. This high fteep promontory is called Java head by the Englifh failors and oUrs, or the Pico of the Prince Ifland. It is on the right if you are failing into New Bay, which is the firft port in that road. This mountain is of a brown red colour. Near Java head is a neck of land every where covered with trees, and therefore is entirely like that fide of Java which we paff ed by. Higher up the country the ground wasrifing, and the palm-trees were taller than I- ever faw any where elfe. In a: few places we obferved, between thefe thickets, fome fpots of ground the furface of which appeared quite yellow from the blooming flowers : this gave a. charm- NEAR JAVA. 1751; ip. a charming appearance to the country, but increafed my chagrin as I was not to go on ihore; and I was forced to languifh like a hungry perfon who views his food only at a diftance. Thefe Woods are faid to be fo full of tigers and other beafts of prey, that no body ventures to live on the eaftern ihore of the ifland. At night it was extremely agree able upon the decks, for we were refreflied by the fweet fmell which exhaled from the trees and other vegetables. We were vifited by many little white birds, like our gulls, Which fluttered about us and whiffled ; and afterwards anPther larger fort of birds eame.to us, but foon after left us; Nieu Eyland, or the New ifland, whence the new bay, ot the new road, derives its name, is the place where the Swedifh Eaft India company's fhip The Gothic Lion (which had loft the trade-wind) was obliged to ftay, and whence all Our fhips on their return fetch frefh water; and even on their voyage from Europe, if in want of it, or if detained by calms or by contrary winds. At eleven o'clock We had a coral bottom, twenty fathoms depth. K 2 The 132 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. The focond port in Java is Welcome bay, the third Pepper -bay and the fourth Angeri, which are all on the right coming from Europe*,. On the left or fouth fide is Prince Ifland\ which is faid to be very populous, and belongs to the king of Bantam. From this ifland the fhips of other nations take water for their re turn, as the Swedifh fhips formerly did : but they have fince found New-bay more convex nient for that purpofe. Summatra, which we faw at a great dif tance behind Prince Ifland^ is much larger than Java, and is computed to be two hundred Swedifh miles long1. The country was on this fide like Princes I/land, and for the moft part covered with thick woods, betweea which were fome open places* On the ihore pf Java we faw fome fmall reddifh rocks, and' fea-turtles on the water. In the evening the fky was covered with fome clouds fhining like gold, upon which rain and thunder enfued. The inhabitants along the Ihore lighted feveral fires to frighten wild 1 That is, about one thoufand two hundred and fifty Eng* lijh miles. F. beafts NEAR JAVA. 1751.- 133 beafts from their huts. About eleven o'clock all was filent, and we anchored in the fourth harbour, viz. Angeri. July the 15th. The thunder clouds lay low on the moun tains, fo that the high rocks were prominent above them. Thunder and lightning, toge ther with rain, enfued. " We weighed anchor at eight o'clock in the morning, having had Angeri point N. N. E. and the ifland called S$uer im Wege (that is Acrofs the way) between N. and N. by E, The ifle of Kraka toa was to the left of us. About nine o'clock we eaft anchor ; we had fifteen fathoms depth, and a clayey ground, on which lay little fhells. We had the fourth bay from Java, between S. and S. by E. The before mentioned ifland N. E. and Angeri Point N. E. by E. Some moths came aboard our fhip and were caught, viz. Sphinx atropos Linn, or the Jaf- ndne SphiHx : its upper wings are black, with" K 3 whitifh 134 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. whitifh fpots; but at the extremity of an orange colour : the under fide of the upper, and both fides of the lower wings, have black lines: the antenna are blackifh, prifmatic, and have a brown fpot on the point: the eyes are large and black : fhe back of the thorax is marked with a blackifh brown figure like a fkull : the body is black below, with orange rings: it is marked at top with rings of black changing into blue: the feet are ihaded black and brown ; and their fpines, which fling like nettles, have the fame colour : this Sphinx has a ftrong fpiral tongue. When caught, it made a noife fomething like a bird. At half an hour after four in the afternoon we failed, and about fix o'clock we dropped the anchor at ten fathoms depth, in a blue fandy, clayey ground. The ifland called Acrofs the way wa? now N. N. W. and Angeri S. by E. We faw two fires on the coaft of Java. July the 1 6th. pQR the greateft part, calm and fine weather, About NEAR JAVA. 1751. 135 About eleven o'clock we weighed anchor, but foon after dropt it again, at a moderate diftance from Angeri. Here at laft I got leave to go on fhore with the boat, which fetched fome refrefhments for our men, fuch as cocoa- nuts, &c. but only on condition of returning immediately as foon as the commanding officer ihould defire me. We had provided ourfelves with fire arms in cafepf a bad .reception . As foon as we reached the land (which we did with great difficulty, on account of the coral bottom, and - becaufe the tide ran very much to the fhore), fome natives of the coun try- met us : thefe at firft feemed undetermined whether to look upon us as enemies or as friends ; for they were then at war with the Dutch. Each of them had a dagger on his fide, which looked like a kitchen knife hung in a belt, and its point was made poifonous by the Toxicaria of Rumphius. One of them carried a couple of javelins on his back, and a cane in his hand. They were almoft naked, being covered with nothing but a brown cotton cloth, fpotted with blue, tied round the body with a handkerchief; between which their dagger is put. With thefe poifoned daggers- K 4 they 136 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. they cut the cocoa-nuts, and other things ; but they likewjfe defend themfelves againft their enemies with them. Round their black hair they wear a check handkerchief tied, yet fo that the crown of their head remains uncover ed. When they came on-board they fome times dreffed themfelves in a lopfe fhirt, which was commonly blue or check. Some of them wore on their fingers brafs rings with feals of ftones like .blue faphires. Thefe Indians Were of a middle fize, but generally fhort ; their hair and eye-brows black, their teeth of a blackifh red, their eyes and nofes little, their mouth large, and moft of them had no beards. They were civil, grave, fimple, and willing to oblige ; but cried like children if any thing was taken from them. They want no chairs, becaufe they fit upon their heels like monkeys. Their falute is Taba tuani, or Good day to you, Sir. At laft they offered us their cocoa-nuts, plantains, chicken, beer, buffaloes, tortoifes, and bed-mats ; which latter were either double, - that is, fuch as have larger mefh%s on one fide ; or fingle, which are always brought here and ufed as fheets, on account pf their copl- nefs. In payment they received Spanifh filver money, or wares, fuch as old fhirts, hand kerchiefs^ AT JAVA. 1751, 137 kerchiefs, mirrors, glafs, knives, pins and needles, flints, &c. The fea-ihore here confifts of a grey fand, in which are feveral corals, fuch as madre pores, millepores, &c. as alfo fhells, viz. Cypraa alba and Cypraa punclafa, two fpecies of Cowries, were found here. The country was fcarce a yard higher than the furface of the water. A number of fmall crabs ran very nimbly on the land. A little hut, confuting of four poles, open on the fides, but covered with cocoa leaves at the top, and ufed for fires at night, was found on the fhore. The people live fo contented here amongft apes and parrots, that the ftatelieft palaces in Europe . do not contain fo happy inhabitants. All the trees are different from thofe which are found with us, and ftand fo clofe together on the fea-fhore, that it is almoft impoflible for a ftranger to penetrate imp the country. The inhabitants of Java had a little path through the wood, but they forbad me going through it. They accompanied us to-day along j.53 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. along the fhore towards the fide of Angeri, on a brook which was about the diftance of a gun-fhot from our boat, where we filled a tun full of water, which was not very good. On the fide of the brook ftood a tree of about ten or twelve feet high, which had both flowers and fruits, and which the Indians called Vien- taro : it is Cerbera Manghas ; the germen is oval like the ftigma, which is bifid: the out ward fhell o{ the fruit contained a milky juice, which raifed a fufpicion of its qualities; and befides, the people of the country more than once told us that it was poifonous. It may be compared with the Arbor laclaria, Malaice Bintaro Rump. iii. p. 234. and Jafminum In- dicum, Merian Surin. p. & t. 8. ^uauthlepatli f. Arbor ignea. Hern. HifL Mex. cap. xxxiii. The other plants which I gathered here, were Acanthus ilicifolius : the perianthium is double : the outermofl is lefs ; and both of them have two oppofite leaves fomewhat larger than the reft : the four Jlamina are ihorter than the corolla, and two of them longer than the other two : the filaments are broad, point ed, and ftriated in the middle : the anthem are AT JAVA. 1751. 139 are oblong, erect, hairy, and fhorter than the filaments : the germen is almoft oval, and fitu ated below the corolla : the fiylus is filiform, and is of the fame length with the filaments : the ftigma is undivided : the pericarpium is a bilocular oval capfula, turned upfide down; in each partition were two flat, oval feeds : , the fmell is like that of an Agaric. Gatefbaa? Javanka : the periantbiwn is ihort and infundibulous-form : the tube of the corolla is very long, and nearly cylindrical : the limbus is fhort and quinquefid : the four fila ments are filiform, remarkably long, and in- ferted in the tube of the corolla : the anthera are fmall : the germen is round and fmall : the ftylus is filiform, and longer than the ftamina : the flowers are blue and axillar; each pedun cle bears three flowers at the utmoft: the peduncles of each flower in particular are fhort : the plant is a frutex : - the branches hang downwards, and are quadrangular : the leaves are ovato-lanceolated, oppofite, fmooth, pointed, petiolated, inclining to one fide and deciduous. It grows on the fea-fhore. Convolvulus pes capraLinn. lay on the ihore, $vith its long tendrils and fine flowers. lfchamum 140 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Ifchamum muticum procumbens Linn, was the moft common grafs along the fea-ihore. Vitex trifolia : the perianthium is monopeta- ' lous, quinquedentated, cylindrical, and Very ihort : the corolla is monopetalous and ringent : the middlemoft lacinia of the upper line is longer and broader than the four others, which are equal : the four filaments, two of which were longer than the others, are infert- ed in the bafe of the limbus : the fiylus is longer than i\cftamina : the anthera are bifid ; and fo is the ftigma, which is reflated : the berry is obovated : the branches are quadran gular, lanated, like the leaves and petioli: two, three, or four leaves fit together; but on the branches they are fingle : the foliola are lanceolated and ferrated. The tree, or fhrub '* has branches hanging down, and a fmell of wormwood. It grows on the fea-fhore. Afclepias gigantea : the neclarium looks like a lion's mouth. Mcmecylon capitellatum : its fly li are filiform, as long as the neclarium : the ftigmata are la- mellated and joined together : the leaves are elliptical, and lanated below. Verbefina AT JAVA, 1751. i4i Verbeftna lavenia .- the leaves have two little glands at their bafe, and one or two about the middle. Sida cordifolia. Urena finuata : the leaves are ovated, cor- dated, ferrated ; and the lower ones have ge nerally an angulated edge : the flowers are red and at the extremities. The plant is a little tree. Michelia champaca : it has no calyx : its co rolla is double: it has fourteen lanceolated petals, of which the outward fix are greater : the filaments are numerous, ihort, inferted at the bafe, and furrounding the piftillum : the anthera are longer than the filaments : the ftylus, &c. like that of the Nymphaa ; the flowers are yellow, and have a very fine finelL The Javanefe offered them to us as an agree able prefent. The Tetradapa of the Javanefe ; Erythrina coralladendron? the periantbium is monophyl- lous, fpathaceous, ihort, and oval : the vexil- lum of the corolla is great, including four oval, ihort petals : the filaments are ten in number, nine of which are grown together half-way in one ; 142 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. one ; they are all fubulated : the anthera are' erected and oblong : the germen is long, and lanated : the ftylus is fubulated : the ftigma is deflected and barbated : the flowers are vertJ- cillated, red and deciduous. The fruit which lay under this tree (if it may be called fo) was a narrow rhomboidal pod (legumen) : it contained two kidney-ihapedy^J. The tree was as high as a man's head, anct very ra- mofe : it had no leaves at that time, but fine fcarlet flowers. It may be compared with the Gedala litorea ; Malaice Gelala laut et Gelala itam j Badenfibus Dadab. Rumph. Tom. iii. p< 231. t. 77. This author fays, the tree is in bloffom at the latter end of July, and the leaves fall off about that time. In the middle of Auguft the flowers drop. In September comes the fruit and the frefh leaves. The blood-coloured parrots called Luris like thefe flowers exceedingly ; about the time that the trees are in bloffom, they flock about them, and fuckthejuiceoutof the Ncclaria ; and at that time they are caught in fpringes fixed to the boughs of the trees. The above-mentioned author ihews the ufe of the leaves and bark in phyfic; on the latter of which grew Byffus candelaris, and on the root Onoclea fenftbilis Linn. AT JAVA. 1751. 145 Linn, vel Filix indica polypodii facie. Mentz„ pugill. tab. penultima. Crinum Afiaticum Linn. Tulipa Javana, Rumph. t. v. page 240. t. 105. The fpatha has two leaves: the flowers form a knob at the top of the ftalk, and have an agreeable fmell : the corolla is monopeta- lous : the tube is cylindrical, and very long : the limbus is fexfid, with long, linear, reflect ed- lacinia : the ftamina and tho. ftylus are very long, and alfo reflected : the filaments are in- ferted in the mouth of the tube : the ftylus is longer than the filaments, but does not reach fo high, becaufe it ftands much lower : the leaves are fword-like and broad. It grows in the fandy fea-fhore. It was brought to Sweden perfectly alive. Coccus nucifera {Palma Indica major, Rumph. t. i. p. 1 .) called Calapa in the Javan language, is a very high, but not very thick palm-tree, with a rough bark, and a ftem which is un divided up to the crown. On the bark grows a white flour-like mofs. The cocoa-nuts, which hung at the top, looked like cabbages, and were fomewhat triangular : the exterior fhell of the nut is yellow when it begins to ripen, 144 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. ripen* and grows brown: it confifts of an; outer cafe, like hemp, and is ufed as fuch, and therefore is commonly peeled off before the nut is fold; excepting a narrow ftripe, which is left to ihew how ripe the nut is ; and accordingly is eitker green, or yellow, or brown. Yet thefe nuts may be had quite perfect if they are ordered, and in that ftate they contain the greateft plenty of frefh water. The fibrous fhell is ufed for matches and ropes, but the latter foon rot in frefh water. The next 'iheli below this is white before it is ripe, but it afterwards becomes brown and very hard : near the ftalk it is fomewhat angu- lated. The Java people make ufe of it to put their brown fugar and other things in. People going to the Eaft Indies make drinking veffels and punch ladles of it : and befides" this fome very pretty little bafkets. Oppofite to the bafe, or to the part where the ftalk is faftened, are three little holes, but only one of them is eafily opened. The innermoft fhell; which fits clofe to the hard fhell, is white, and not much harder than a turnep before it is boiled : it may be eaten raw, and it has a tafte of fweet almonds ; and for that reafort feamen mix it with cinnamon, and make a fort of almond milk with it. It may alfo be ufed as At java. 1751* i4j as a fallad, when prepared with vinegar, fait* arid oil. The nut is filled with a pale, fweet water, which turns four if it is not drunk foori after the nut is opened. Every nut contains about a pint, or fomewhat more, of this wa ter. We ufed it for fome weeks, whilft it was frefh, inftead of tea. It is faid that this juice, if it is ufed as water to Wafh one's felf, gives a fine complexion. When thd nUt grows old* the water congeals into a fpungy white kernel* from which, after the fhell is opened, fome leaves fpring up, which keep very lorig with out putting the nut into tlie ground or water ing it. A hundred nuts coft a pefo duro, or Spanifh dollar. The trees flood along the ihore in low places, and were very plentiful. Authors fay very circumftantially, that this tree affords cloaths, meat and drink, houfes* or huts, utenfils or houfehold implements, and other inftruments, to the natives. To the laft riientioned purppfe the ftem is of ufe ; out of the branches they make the arched entrances to their huts, to which they fafteri flowers on their wedding-days : the leaves are made ufe of for thatching, fails, balkets, brooms, and. may be wrought upon with bamboo nails : the kernel and water of the nut afford thein their meat and beverage : the outward fhell Vol. I. L affords i46 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. affords cloathing, painting-brufhes, &c. If an incifion is made into any bough, a clear juice runs frpm the wound in the night time, which makes fyrup and vinegar if properly prepared. Without this juiee of cocoa no arraek can be made : and the Chinefe, for this reafon, are obliged to buy this liquor here. The Indiana breakfaft on the kernel of the cocoa-nut, fa- goe-bread' and dried fifh : but thofe of higher rank add fome boiled rice. The fhell is ufed like Areca, for chewing, but firft they mix ir with Betel and chalk : it is likewife put into water, and afterwards they make a milk of it, which they call Santar, in which they boil herbs, cabbage, rice and fifties i this milk turns four in one night. If it is mixed with a certain quantity of water and boiled in a pot, it lofes its white colour ; and when all the "Water is gone off, a pure oil remains, which it i§ faid is as clear and fweet as oil of olives ; it is ufed as butter, and is a very nutritive- food. Both men and women, anoint them felves with cocoa oil, both againft certain dif- eafes, and becaufe k is fafltioaable to have black hair. The ladies of Java and Balaya mix part of the root of turmeriek (Curcuma Linn.) with it, which gives a luftre to their complexions.- The Portuguefe doctors pre scribe AT JAVA. t7su r47 fcribe cocoa oil with fyrup of violets againft toughs arid afthmas* and order gouty people to rub the parts affected with it, &e. The roots are ufed againft dyfenteries and fevers* The ftrangury and the gonorrhoea virulenta are healed by means of the flowers taken out of the fpatha and eaten With Ldntaris or a red difh fugar. If frefh cocoa-nuts are roafted "and grow cold again, or when they are ex pofed to dew, they are faid to put a flop to agues and the like difeafes : it might be of ufe to try this receipt in the Eaft India voyages. In Malabar the kernels of the ripe nuts are dried by the fun, and expprted into other countries by the naine of Copra; and oil is prefled otit of it, with Which all forts of wea pons are rubbed to prevent their rufting. The inhabitants of this part of Java had no Wild birds to fell at prefent ; however, for two knives, I got an Ifpida viridis fupraferru- gjnea : (Merops viridis Linn.) One might fee by its afpect it was not formed for a fongfter, b'ut only to clear the earth of grubs and other infe&s. It made fome noife now and then as long as it lived ; but it furvived but a few days. After its deceafe I took down the fol* lowing particulars : the bill is black, fharp, L 2 arched, 148 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. arched, and has a narrow ridge at the top; the eyes are black : the irides are red : the jaws are triangular : the tongue is every where equally broad, narrow, and lacerated towards the tip : the noftrils are round and naked: the head and neck are brownifh: the breafl, belly, and tail are \vhite, and fomewhat green- ifh : the wings are green on the upper fide ; the upper margin, the extremities, and the under fide are ferrugineous : the back, the throat, and the tail are blue : it has twenty^ one quill feathers : of the twelve feathers in the tail the two middlemoft are the largeft : the legs and feet are afh-coloured and naked : it has three fore-toes and one back-toe. This fpecimen is preferved in the Mufeum Upfalienfi. Several infects, particularly butterflies, flew about us on all fides ; but it was their good fortune that we ftayed no longer on fhore. I only caught an Apis rufa, thorace antice linea alba, abdomine fufco; and fome black ants. The latter were frequent in the trees. The flying-boats or proas of the Java people were pulled on fhore and carried into the woods, left the great heat of the fun fliould fpoil them : -they are fharp and very narrow, with an A T.JAVA. 1751. i49 an out-rigger of bamboo, going in the water on one-fide, which makes it more fecure m. Java tortoifes (Teftudo Javanica) were fold here two for a piaftre. They were both females. They are dreft for eating in the fame man ner as the tortoifes in the Afcenfion Ifland, as will be found in the fequel ; but the latter. are much larger, and of a quite different kind, as will appear from this defcription : the upper jaw is ftriated inwardly ; the lower is dentated: the upper fhield is of a reddifh brown, and ftriated : the five middlemoft fcutella are pen tagonal: next to them are, on each fide, four oblong pentagons, crOfs-ways ; and on the margin, are twenty-five leffer oblong quadrila teral ones : the fhield on the belly is yellowifh- white, and reticulated : on each fide are eight ribs : the paws and feet are entire, but fome what notched on the inner fide. After we had paid a vifit to the inhabi tants of Java for about a quarter of an hour, and bought a hundred cocoa-nuts for one pefo duro, the above tortoifes, and other things, we returned on-board, where we arrived about *"$ee Lord Anfon's Voyage, book iii. chap. 5. L 3 twelve ISO OSBEC K* S* VOYAGE, twelve o'clock, and found other Java men there, expofing cocoa-nuts, and the following things to fale : Tobacco, which they chewed with Areca. The tobacco was cut from broad, thin, green leaves, into narrow ftripes. It is faid that it is very good for fmoaking, and might be the N'icotiana peniculata. Brown powder fugar in half cocoa-nut«-ihells, put tpgether and tied with leaves. Bottles of Gourds, (or pf the Cucurbita la- genaria Linn.) filled with water, as it is made up for their own ufe, and for fale. Shells, particularly Cowries, Cucurbita fepo, Citrus decumana Linn, the fhaddock, is a great, roundifh fruit, like fweet or China oranges, and eaten inftead of fuch ; yet it is much larger than a China orange, and rathef fourer, and is therefore better to quencl^ idiirft, The peel is fpungy, of the thicknefs of 3 finger, bitter as a Seville orange, to which this fine fruit is yery near akin, there AT JAVA. 1751. 151 There was another round fruit like fmall China oranges, with a green warty peel, which was called Pompelmufs by the Java people : I have feen but few of them. They were rec koned more valuable than the Citrus decumana, and had a fweeter and more agreeable tafte. Limon tuberofus Martinicus $ Malaice Lemon- Martin, Rumph. ii. p. 10 1, t. 26? Musa paradifiaca Linn. Plaintain tree, or Pifang, has yellow, foft fruit, which looks like fingers, being feated on the ftalks in fuch a manner as to refemble two hands. If you will keep the fruit for fome weeks together, you muft buy it green, and then it gradually ripens, and is pretty good to eat as foon as the rind is turned yellow, which eafily peels off. It is faid that this is the forbidden fruit, which threw our firft parents into mifery. Java monkies, Simla Aygula Linn, caudata fubbarbata eminentia pilofa verticis longitudina- lis. The feamen call them Tjacko, and this is perhaps the true name which the people of Java give to this animal. It is no bigger than a little cat, of a light grey, or greyiih colour, and this is likewife the colour of the L 4 tuft 152 OS BECK'S VOYAGE, tuft at the top of the head : below the belly it is whitifh : the fnout, from which an elevate ed finew runs down to the lip, is narrow ; the eyes are brown ; the pupil is black : the eyebrows are large : the beard is fo fmall, that it fcarce deferves that name : the nails are narrow and long, but the nail of the thumb is fliort. They flatter both men and thofe of their own fpecies, and embrace one another. If they perceive an ape of a different kind, they greet him with a thoufand grimaces. They play with dogs if they have no nearer friends about them ; at firft they are uneafy at being feparated from their own fpecies. When a number of them fleep, they put their heads together. They make a continual noife dur ing the night time ; and in day time, if they ?xe tied to one place, they continually move backwards and forwards. If any body looks crofs at them, they are angry, and begin a fmacking. They referable all others of that genus in dirtynefs, lafcivioufnefs, drollery, in fhewing a. liking to all glittering things, and an appetite for greens and fruits, They crack nuts and eat the kernel with great alacrity. It is faid that the monkies in China gather rhubarb, and pound rice. Females are but feldgm fold, Thefe animals in general are pet; AT JAVA. 1751. 153 pot eafily brought home from fuch diftant parts. Their conftant nocturnal mewing is intolerable. Sometimes they are attacked by the fcurvy, which makes them fo ftiff that at laft they can fcarce move out of one place, and this very often kills them. If you let them go about freely, they play a thoufand tricks, jump over every thing, ileal the peo ples meat away, hunt after chicken, break the necks of birds ; and even carry their mifchief further, which has been attefted by many men of veracity : fome years ago there was a great monkey in a fhip, and the boys being ordered to get upon the yard to take in the fail, the monkey mounted after them, and one of them not doing his bufinefs to its lik ing, it bit off his ear. Thefe and other in conveniences are the reafons why we bring no more of thefe diverting animals with us. July the 17th. Fine and calm weather. A Javanese man, who conducted a Dutch yacht from Batavia to the weftern coaft, with g JJutch flag, came on board us, after we had fired >- 154 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. fired a cannon, and prefented us with two large water-melons marked with Chinefe characters. About three in the afternoon we failed from hence, with very little wind, and anchored again at five o'clock on a ftony ground at twenty fathoms depth ; the next night we had fome lightning, July the 18th. The weather was fine, but wind and current Were againft us, The, Java men came to us, and had cocoa- nuts, large oranges, (Citrus decumand), great coffee-beans, chicken of different colours, pale- grey ducks, powder-fugar, tobacco, feveral mats to lie upon in the heat inftead of fheets ; fome birds in cages, particularly little parrots of excellent green, blue, and red colours, efpecially the following : Pfittacus galgulus, viridis, uropygio et guld rubra, vertice cceruleo Linn. Pfittacus viridis^ remigibus reclricibufque fupra viridibus, fubtus ccemleis, uropygio pefioreque coccineo, vertice ccsrulco. Edw.t. 6\ It! NEAR JAVA. 1751. 155 Its fize is that of a little fparrow ; the bill of the fame fhape with thofe of other fpecies the fame genus; the round noftrils are gh up on the bill, and are furrounded by elevated fkin ; the eyes are furrounded by a uifti fkin, with elevated points near the mar- 1 ; the head, the back, the belly, the upper- 'es of the wings, and the coverts of the tail low, are green ; but the under-fide of each ither is purple at the bottom ; the crown of e head is adorned with a blue fpot ; the opygium and the throat are red ; on the neck a brownifh fpot ; the lower part of the back s a yellow fpot, and towards the uropygium grows red ; the nineteen quill-feathers are lie on the outward edges, the reft is green ; : eleven tail-feathers are green pn the upper d blue on the under fide, and they are al* aft concealed under the coverts ; the people Java call thefe birds Parktcki, and our ople call them Paroquets : thefe little birds 2 beautiful on account of their high colours, d this is the only thing that recommends them all nations ; if it is put into a cage, it riftles very feldom, and commoply grows lite fulleri; it hangs itfelf with its feet fo, at the back is turned towards the earth, and dom changes this fituation; it is fed with boiler} 156 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. boiled rice, in which manner, in the year 1752, one was brought alive to Gothenburgh in the ihip the Gothic Lion, and I brought a fluffed one. Psittacus Javanicus (Pfittacus Alexandri Linn.) This Parrot is twice as big as the pre ceding one, and is here univerfally expofed to fale. The cere is black ; the wings have feven quill-feathers in the laft joint ; eleven fecon- dary feathers are in the next ; and in the loweft, which is very fhort, are a few fmall ones ; the midlemoft of the eleven tail-feathers is the longeft ; the upper-jaw is the longeft and pale red ; the lower is pale yellow ; the noftrils ftand very high up in the bill, and are round; - the membrane of the head goes round about fomewhat lower ; the bead is every where covered with very ihort feathers of a pale blue, and pale yellow; the temples are black on both fides ; all the other parts of the bird are grafs coloured, except the throat and breaft which are pale red ; the wings are light grey below, but five of the coverts are yellow ; the down clofe to the body is grey ; the tail is yellowifh, the thighs are long and covered ; the legs are fliort, and like the feet, of a greenifh grey ; the latter have two fore-toes and twq back-toes NEAR JAVA. 1751. 15? back-toes of which the innermoft are the ihorteft* ' Cor v us Javanenfis (Gracula religiofa Linn.) The Java people call them May-noa ; they may be compared with the Lef-koa of the Chinefe ; it looks like a great blackbird with white membranes near the ears ; the bill, the legs, and the feet are pale yellow ; each of the outermoft quill-feathers has a white fpot ; the whole bird is black befides ; each ear has two white membranes ; the eyes are black ; its little oblpng nofirils are in the middle of the bill ; the jaws of the bill are of an equal fize ; the irides are moftly covered and blue ; the legs and feet are whitifh and fcaly ; the latter have three fore-toes and one back-toe ; of the fixteen quill-feathers the feven outward ones have each a black fpot in the middle ; the ten tail-fea thers are fliort ; the head is naked : this bird eats greadily, cries loud, fmacks with its bill, and it is faid, it may be taught to fpeak ; we bought one here, but it died at Canton. Mot-act ll a familiaris (Emberiza famili- aris Linn. Syft. Nat. 311.) capite & rofira nigro, uropygio luteo : the head is black and has a Utile i5§ OS BECK'S VOYAGE, a little tuft ; the bill is fubulated, ftreight*- narrow, black; the neck, the breaft, and the" head arc afll-coloured \ the coverts of the tail are yellow. It was one of the prettieft birds I ever faw ; for, when a perfon whiffled to it, it fang very fweetly ; and if any one offered his hand when the cage was opened, it would jump upon it ; if it faW a difli of water, it Went and bathed itfelf, which it did almoft every day ; at night it Was reftlefs till We hung fomething over its cage ; We fed it with rice till it was devoured by rats at Canton. Java Turtle doves (Columba turtuf.) The head is reddiih-grey ; the bill is blackifh and narrow ; the upper-jaw is the longeft, and ends in a {harp point like a nail, but a little bent j the lower-jaw is ftreight ; the noftrils are long, equally broad, oblique* raifed up at the edges; the irides are red ; the throat, the breaft, and the belly are of a reddifh grey ; on the neck are white and ferrugineous fpots ; the quill-fea thers and the tail are undulated with a red and ferrugineous colour ; the legs and feet are red } it has three fore-toes and one back-toe. Java Sparrows. Fringil la capite & gula nigra, temporibus albis (Loxia oryzivora Linn.) The Cock-paddy NEAR JAVA. i7$r« t$p Cock-paddy or Rice-bird. Edw. t. 41. Thcbillis fometimes more, and fometimes lefs red ; ,the lower-jaw is a little longer than the upper one j the tongue is iharp and lacerated ; the head and cheeks are black, but grey in young birds ; the temples are white ; the neck, the back, and feven of the quill-feathers are blue, and blackifh grey on the upper fide ; the quill-fea thers are whitifh below ; the belly is reddifh ; the twelve feathers of the tail are black ; the vent-feathers are white ; the legs and feet are of a pale colour ; the back-toe is as long as the middlemoft fore-toe. We now got a fight of the Patiallinga : they are fmall Dutch merchant ihips, which cruize hereabouts, betwen the iflands, to pre vent fmuggling on the coafts. Every time we heaved the lead we got pieces of corals. Being obliged by the contrary current to anchor at Topenfhuth, overagainft which is Brabandfhuth, the Dutch Commodore's ihip, the Middelburgh, commanded by Commodore Suavenbourg, with four other men of war, cruizing about the coafts of Java, paffed by us. They i6o OSBECK'S VOYAGE. They brought advice, that the Queen of BaiU tarn was killed, that the King was taken pri- foner, and that five thoufand Dragoons and one thoufand five hundred Huffars were at that time ready to kill all the inhabitants of Bantani without diftinction, who would not acknow ledge the King whom they had appointed, and who ihould refufe to look upon the Dutch as their protectors. The prince of Madura fupported the Dutch in this affair with all his power. The ifland of Great Java is fituated under the fixth degree of fouth latitude, between Summatra, Banca, Borneo, Madura, Baly or Little Java, and the country of Eendr aught (Union). It appears from hence that it muft be very hot, and the heat would be intolerable if the thick woods did not retain the moifture after the rains are over, and if all kinds of animals were not refrefhed by the ihade. Batavia is the celebrated capital of the Dutch in this ifle, who built it in the year 1610, in the place where the old town of Jacatra formerly ftood ; but as it lay on the other fide of the ifle we did not get fight of it. I am told there are fine houfes in it, and that it N E A.R JAVA. 1751. i6t it is inhabited by merchants of all nations, and even by Chinefe, who contribute much to the riches of this place. The Dutch Council of India has its feat there ; and from thencd directs their Eaft-India trade. The Dutch intend to poffefs themfelves of Bantam, a town and kingdom which has formerly been governed by a Mahomedan King, and carries on a great trade in pepper. It is faid that the language is either that of the natives or the Malaic. Leidecker haS wrote the firft Malaic and Dutch dictionary in Batavia, which Cardinal Barberini got pub lifhed in Latin at Rome, 1631, in quarto, by David Hixio. Hadrianus Relandus, in his Differtationes mifcellanea, has likewife publifhed a fylloge of the dictionary of Leidecker. Not to mention fome other works which the Dutch have publifhed in the Malaic language, fuch as the New Teftament, &a n The Malaic language is faid to be more tmiverfal in India, than Latin in Europe. Bats ? of the fize of ravens, flew every evening from Summatra to Java, to fpend the n Mr. Bouurey publifhed a Malayo and Englifh Didio- riary, in Quarto, atLond, 1701. .Vol. I« M night i<$2 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. night there, and returned in the morning to Summatra. This is undoubtedly a fingular. circumftance, deferving a clofer examination. In flight and fize they were like our ravens ; a man of veracity affured me, that he had feen (hem in a garden at Batavia; do thefe animals find fome food at Java which' they cannot meet with in Summatra ? or are they molefted during the nights in Summatra with enemies which are not to be found in Java ? what elfe can be the reafon why they fo often change their habitations ? July the 19th. We paffed by the point of Bantam in the morning, in fair weather and with favourable wind ; and in the afternoon about two of the clock, two ifles which are fo like 'one another that they are called the Two Brothers. The ground was a blue clay mixed with white fand ; it was at ten or thirteen fathoms depth. July the 2 1 ft. The water looked yellow, and was now in bloffom u, as our people told me. 0 In the northern countries of Europe, it is faid, that the water is in bloffom, when it is tinged with a green or ¦ We ft EAR. JAVA* 1751.. id3 We faw Lucipara before its. It was a very ihady ifle, like all the ifles hereabouts which have thick forefts : it is thought that this ifle Had its own inhabitants.' Our fhip required at leaft eighteen, feet depth of water before, and nineteen and a half behind; for which reafpn we always fent our boat arid floop before us, *as fqon as we had but five fathoms depth: in fome places We had fcarce four fathoms depth : thus we failed here according to the depth, and by the direction of our lead, and riot according tP the corirfe, which was the, -caufe that we did not approach Summatra nearer than at five fathoriis depth ; nor did we venture to keep further off than at feven ..fathoms depth* The ifle of Summdi fa, which was continually on Pur left, and tP which we failed fo near, was low in this place, and covered with trees,* which ftood very clofe, whofe ftetns were without branches, and all of a height; and. for that reafon, the foreft looked, like a cut yellow hue, by a kind of Byffas or Hair-'weed, :w,hh which it is then filled : and from thence even the fea is faid 'to be in bloffom, when its furface is tinged with a preternatural colour. F. M 2 hedge, 164 OS BECK'S VOYAGE. hedge, or as a clump of reeds in the water ; but further on a row of higher and darker trees made their appearance. Perhaps the former trees were thofe called Spanifh reeds : the landing is faid to be very inconvenient, on account of the deep clay, which extends a good way into the wood : however, there are Swedes who have fometimes been on ihore for plea fure, and to cut wood. Juan de la Serna fays, in his Diccionario Geographico, that the above mentioned ifland is three hundred leagues long, and feventy broad; that it produced rice, feveral forts of fpice and fruit ; that it is fub- ject to a great deal of rain; and that the heat is much greater than in Java : that the petty Kings have a King fuperior to them all at Akhen; and that the inhabitants are black, ugly, proud, tyrannical, treacherous, and faith- lefs Mahomedans, who defpife all ftrangers. The ifle of Banca lay on our right. The mountain called Monopin, which is upon it, may be feen at a great diftance. We call anchor in the evening. July NEAR JAVA. 175*. 16$ July the 2 2d. We failed with a fair wind, however, not above half a mile from Banca. The ifle of Nanka, or Polo Nanka, where frefh water is to be got, was obferved on our right. We ap proached very near to the North fide of Sum matra, which looked as before mentioned ; we anchored towards the third promontory or cape. Insects came to us from the land. The 23d July. Having feen in the morning a Junke (for that is the name of a Chinefe yacht), we hap pily paffed a little rock hidden under water, which has frightned many Eaft-India failors, and which they call the Frederick Henry. This place is dangerous, becaufe the low water prevents the fhips from approaching the fhore ; but if they go too far off, the above rock may make an end of the whole voyage, as happened to a Dutch (hip, and is ftill quite frefh in our memories. M 3 I Have. 166 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. I have often been told that fquirrels fome times fail acrofs the fea ; but to-day I experi enced, that birds likewife are poffeffed of that art ; for a Booby (Pelecanus Pifcator) failed by ¦ us on a root. Monopin upon Banca we left out of fight in the afternoon, together with Summatra. The 24th July. We now faw thofe called the Seven Iflands pn the right ; but they were at a greater diftance than the ifles Polo-Taya on the left : the ifle of Lingen, which is one of the former and lie? exactly under the line, was overagainft us at 6 o'clock in the evening. The 25th July, iQ Northern Latitude, The wind was fair, and we faw land. The 26th July, 20 39'N. L. We thought that Polo-Tingey, where the Swedifh Eaft-Indiaman the Ritter Houfe, was 2 loft, NEAR JAVA. 1751. 167 loft, was on our left, among the ifles ; but we afterwards found, when we had paffed by fome of them, that it was amongft the ifles of Anambo. The firft was a little high white rock ; and the others were covered with foil and fome fmall plants. We therefore turned and took another courfe. We faw birds of feveral forts at a diftance ; we were accompa nied by fome dog-fifhes, and likewife a fpecies of eels, with yellow tranfverfal lines, if they were not fnakes ; they kept behind the fhip, in that part of the water which the keel of the fhip had cut through ; and I Ihould fup- pofe that they and feveral other little fifties followed us from the Streights of Sunda. We likewife faw them the next day. The 27 th of July, 4° 20' N. L. The weather was fair, and we failed exactly before the wind. Two fwallows came in the evening, and fol lowed the fhip. M 4 The ?68 OS BECK'S VOYAGE, The 29th July, 70 16' N. L. The Globulus is a little white fhell like 2 waiftcoat-button. It is an univalve, very ele vated at the top, flat below, and has depreffed rays on both fides. The worm which lived in, it lay in a circle towards the fpire, was very narrow, and was in length a finger's breadth ; had two fetaceous horns, and a filiform tail. The 30th July, 8° 59' N. L, Polo Candor, together with fome other ifles in the neighbourhood, appeared to the left. This ifle is inhabited, and belongs to the king of Cambogia : it is fifteen leagues off Cambogia, and its latitude 8° 40'. In the year 1746 the ihip Calmar was obliged to winter near Polo Candor. The chaplain, M. Tarnftrcem, who made the firft trial what a Swedijh naturalift might expect from fuch voyages, died here, on the 4th of December, and his funeral was honoured by the firing of two guns. The abovementioned fhip was forced to ftay near this ifland from the nth of October 1746, to jhe 15th of April 1747, on account of con- NEAR JAVA. 1751. i69 trary winds ; for in the Chinefe fea two con tinual winds blow every year ; fo that fix months are taken up by each of them : from April to September you may fail to China with a fouth weft wind ; but the other months from China with a north eaft wind. It is very unfortunate to be here when thefe winds change, for then are ufually exceeding great ftorms (called Tayfun p by the Chinefe) which continue to rage twenty-fix hours with fuch fury, that the people on-board the fhips can not get out of their places, but muft ftand as if they were lafhed to the mail : and this Our P Although Mr. De Guignes in his Memoire dans lequel en prowve que les Cbinois font une colonie Egyptienne, Paris, 175-9, 8vff> has endeavoured to prove the Chinefe to be the offspring of an Egyptian colony : I muft however confefs, that his arguments were by np means fatisfaft ory to me ; though I very willingly allow that there is a great probabi lity in his opinion. For a further inveftigation of this mat ter by the curious, and fuch as go to China, I will only re mark, that the Syphon of the Egyptians was a phyfical divi nity, the fymbol of a fiery malignant eafterly wind, for which reafon this divinity was called Theou phoou, the bad ivind, which bears a very great refemblance to this Chinefe name lay-fun. Befides this, the pronoun of the'firft per fon NF in the Egyptian language is in the Thebaic or pureft fHaleft, and which is pronounced nye, yet preferved in the Chinefe language, both being equivalent to J. F. Eaft i7o OS BECK'S VOYAGE. 4 Eqft India failors are able to affert from their pwn experience. The 3 1 ft of July, io° 30' N. L. Polo Zapata (Which is called a laft by the Swedes from its figure) appeared, being -3 little, naked, white, high rock, in the open fea. 1 ¦ Near this rock are a great number of birds ; and by catching one of them, upon our return from China, we found that it was Ster-r na ftolida grifea, capite alba. The boobies " "were plentiful herei I likewife caught a Pha- lana fetkornis fpirilinguis, alls planis, fuperkr ribus ceerulefcentibus, ma'culis . luteis : the .body, wings, and feet were white: the head green : the tongue ferrugineous. The Mill beetles (Blatta orientalis Linn.i) annually come in fhips from the Eaft In dies. I was told that when the ihip Got hen- burgh,: returning fronl China, foundered- on a rock mot far from tjhe fortrefs Elfsborg, and the wet tea was carried to be dried in the ovens^in the town, thefe infects came thither. . * The Cock Roach ? along CHINESE SEA. 1751. 171 along with it ; and have fince continued there, and in other places. Thefe infects, which conceal themfelves in the day time, come out in the night, when they eat fhoes and other cloaths, which are greafy : it is faid that bugs are their moft delicious morfels ; fo if any one chufes to exchange one peft for another, he might perhaps authenticate this notion. We found a female of this infect in a plantain tree (Mufa paradifiaca) which came from Java. The 3d of Auguft. The fun was perpendicular to us to-day, and the latitude could not be obferved for that reafon; but as to our calculation, it was 140 6' N. L. I caught a Libellula fufca, capite et late- ribus viridibus. The abdomen had eight ar ticulations : the wings were all equal, and brown near the body ; the outward edge had below a black right angled fpot, but on the under fide it was not quite black. The 172 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The 5th of Auguft, i6° 48' N. L. This day and the preceding night we had moftly calm and clear weather ; afterwards the wind was changeable; towards evening it light ened ; about twelve o'clock at night it rained very hard, with much lightning, during which the whole fky was covered with clouds. On the foretop fomething like a little ftar was perceived. The Counfel.lor of Chancery, Mr. Klingenftiernai(z.ys,'m the learned fpeech which he delivered in 1755, on the neweft electrical experiments, when he refigned the office of Prefident of the Royal Academy of Sciences, that fuch flames are electric, being emitted from an electrical cloud, which ferves as a conductor. Among the ancient naturalifts thefe flames were mentioned under the names of Helena, Caftor and Pollux, , The "8th of Auguft, 220 4' N. L, Piedra Blanca, or the White rock, came Within our fight, towards noon. The wind 5 abating, CHINESE SEA. 1751. . 173 abating, the heat became intolerable. To wards the evening we anchored. Balistes Monoceros is a fpecies of fifh which looks like a flounder at a diftance, and has almoft the fame tafte, but is not fo fat. The fifh was half a foot long, and its body covered with a dark-grey rough fkin. We caught feveral with a hook, and this afforded me an opportunity of defcribing them. On each fide is zfpiracle, and next to it, within the lkin, two tranfverfal bones : the firft dorfal fin near the eyes, confifts of a reverfed brittle bone, which is armed with little hooks ; it is the length of a finger's breadth, and a little longer than the other fins : the fecond dorfal fin has forty-feven rays : the pecloral fins are the leaft ; each has thirteen rays : the ventral fins are wanting; in their ftead is a! long bone under the fkin : the anal fin is oppo fite to the fecond dorfal fin, and has 5 1 rays : the tail has 1 2 ramofe rays : the mouth is ob long and narrow : the lower jaw is fomewhat longer than the upper ; on each fide of it ftand three pointed, broad teeth, connected together below, of which the middlemoft is fplit ; the lips are moveable. The 174 OS BECK'S VOYAGE, The 9 th of Auguft* The fhip hardly moved from the place" where it was the day before. We faw befides Fiedra Blanca the ifle of Lantoa, and fome' other ifles on the Chinefe coaft, on our right* The 10th of Auguft. In the forenoon the fky was clear, but the! wind againft us. BALisTEsymjMzw.Catefby, vol.ii.27. A fifh equal in fize and appearance to the Baliftes monoceros, but marked over the whole body as it were with blue letters of an Eaftern lan guage, was caught here, and put into Spanifh brandy ; but the fine colours vanifhed as foon as it was dead. In the afternoon we had a tolerable good wind, but at night again ftood out to fea ; becaufe a cloudy iky and lighten ing are faid to be the forerunners of a ftorm. We had cloudy weather, contrary winds, and fhowers of rain, the following days. The CHINESE SEA. 1751. j7$ The 13th of Auguft. To-day it was refolved to look out for land, where we could, but all our endeavours were in vain. The 14th of Auguft. Rain, ftorms, and contrary winds, always drove us off from land : a fwallow, which had been feen fome days before, ftill accompanied the ihip. The 15th of Auguft. Dark and inconftant weather : the flying fifh, which we faw on the nth, now accom panied us. The 1 6th of Auguft. Cloudy and rain. We fleered W. by S. along the ihore, though we did- not fee it: about noon we anchored and faW. Piedra Blanca to the North Eaft ; not from the deck, but I76 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. but from the foretop. Porpeffes tumbled ill great numbers about the fhip. The 17th of Auguft. In the morning we faw fome land pretty near, and anchored afterwards, but were foon driven from ihore with ftrong wind and rain. Contrary winds and calms hindered our gain ing the Chinefe coafts till the 2 2d of this month : in the mean time we got the follow* ing fpecimens of Natural Hiftory. , The 20th of Auguft. Balistes nigro-punclatus and a lump of narrow, fmooth* round, water-coloured worms* Which hung together without any order, and feemed to be a torn Medufa, at leaft no mark of life appeared in it. The 21ft of Auguft,; The heat to-day and yefterday, was in tolerable ; the large dragon flies (Libellula) which CHINESE SEA. 1751. 177 Which had followed our ihip for fome days, were well pleafed with this Weather. A great dead fnake floated on the water, and occafioned a poifonous flench, which com monly is afcribed to the flowering of the water* BAitstES Chinenfis is diftinguifhed from the aforementioned forts, by the following charac ter ; the bone which makes the firft dorfal fin, is fomewhat thicker, and behind it is a fkin : the fecond dorfal fin has thirty-four rays ; the pecloral fins thirteen rays ; the ventral fin confifts of a bone with eight bent rays ; on that bone is a merhbranaceous fin* which gives a greater breadth to the fifh ; the eyes are very prominent, and have a red iris ; on each fide before the eye is a fmall hole ; the anal fin has thirty rays ; the tail has twelve rays ; this fifh is lefs than the others of that kind. The 2 2d of Auguft* In the morning we weighed anchor and fleered to the Chinefe coaft, having been obliged to linger near it fourteen days, and Vol. I. N having i78 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. having made a collection for the poor of 334 dollars in copper1. The pilot whom we got on board, and who brought us in; was to receive twenty pefos duros (four pounds feven fhillings arid fixpence), or 200 dollars in cop per. We had Lantoa on our right and the Southern ifles of Limes on the left : the fea formed high billows rolling in from the ifles, which were quite green with plants, but had no woods. The moft ufual entry of European fhips into China is by the Ladrones, which derive their name from the pirates who former ly lived upon them. Macao is a Portugueze town on an ifle, which was now on our left, but fo far off that we could not fee it: our Spanifh paffenger left us here, and failed for Macao, frorii whence he defigned to go to the -Ifle of Manilla, Where he intended to fettle. The ifle of Linting was on our left. We were obliged to anchor here, having no wind, and the tide againft us : the filhermen failed by ' A dollar in copper is about five-pence or fi*e-pei«e halfpenny fterlingi thus 334 dollars are about feven p6i»ad» fterling. F. fattening ENTERING INTO CHINA. 1751. 17? fattening their net to the maft. I here caught .the Papilio (Lintingenfis):tetrapifs fttbtus pallide luteus nebulofus, fupra nigricans. luteo impregna- ius. The body is whitifh on the under, but 1 blackifh on the , upper , fide : the qnteHna are • fet.acep.Us* blackifh : the lyings are all dentated; , the primary ones of a pale yellow pn the under fide, with a fe^v black fppts 5 the fecmdary wings blackifh on the upper fide, and yellow below; towards the bafe they have a blue Gemma, or Ocellus, but towards the outward .edge, they are of ,a dirty yellpw* .The i 3d of Auguft; "Whilst we tacked , here, we met with, a ¦Comprador, or -Chinefe who provides the fhips .'with the necefiaries of life, fuch as flefh, greens, and bread. He came from Macao, and had cPlaintains or the larger fort of Pifang, Gujaves, Lanteyes, and. water-melons : his name was Attay, and his fervants were No-hay and At-yqn. The latter came every day with a large Sam- • pans, and kept near the fllip (or Bancfial). I was told that this and other Compradors flayed all night in the Wam-pu cuftom-houfe : in the factory at Canton there is likewife a Comprador, N 2 who 18b OSBECK'S VOYAGE. who in the fame manner gets ready every thing, required for our fubfiftence, and who is obliged to accompany every perfon going on board, to the next cuftom-houfe* in order to fearch what he takes with him. If any body dies, the Com prador is to order the furieral : he that was to be the Comprador of our factory, was called Luffy, The 24th of Auguft. Bocca Tyger, in the Chinefe language Ph- hao, the mouth of the Tyger or Rhomunn ; the Tyger, at its opening, is a narrow river, where we anchored about noon for want of wind. On the right hand fide of the entrance, was a low caftle, furrounded by trees; on both fides of it a path afcended the mountain to a fmall houfe ; before which ftood a white hut, which is flip- pofed to be a place dedicated to an idol : fome what further on the left were two eaftles on two different hills, furrounded likewife by trees ; the moft ontward of them was fur rounded by water, and had a little hut clcfe to it : the inner one is higher, fo that it may command the other * . * See lord Anion's Voyage round the World, book iii. chap. 9. Mandarin CHINA. 1751. 181 Mandarin, or Commander, is a denomi nation which our people borrow from the Portugueze, and which they give to all public officers in this country, even to lower officers of the cuftoms : if a Chinefe was to pronounce this word, he would fay Mandeli, for they can not pronounce the letter r ; whence it plainly appears that the word Mandarin does not be long to their language : fome of thefe gentle men now came on board, to fee what fort of people we were ; two Mandarins accompanied us up the river, to Wam-pu, where we met two others, each of which joined the fhip in his boat with his men, each having his appointed ilation. He who was on the right fide of the ihip, and was the neareft to it, belonged to the cuftoms, and flayed with us whilft we were in China ; but the other on the left was a mili tary man, and was exchanged every month ; their bufmefs is,to keep off the thieving Chinefe from the fhip, and to provide thofe, who muft, ' on account of bufmefs, go to Canton or other places, with fiapp, or paffports, which muft be fhewn at the cuftom-hpufe. Their people can almoft get a fufficient fubfiftence by want ing of linen : it is Temarkable, that no Chinefe can be a Mandarin in the place where he is born, N 3 T™ J82 OS BECK'S VOYAGE, The fifhermen brought feveral forts of fifh, as eels, at leaft a fort of them, called Paling in the Chinefe language, foals, rays, and Chinefi crabs, Cancer Chinenfis. Thefe are as big again as the Swedifh crabs ; the body is almoft tranfparent, as long as a hand is broad: the' roftrum has eight incifions above/ and four below ; the eyes are exceffively prominent, as if they ftood on flalks ; on the fides are two little leaves ; the fides are lacerated and notch ed ; the body, befides the tail and head, has fix articulations ; the tail has four oval leaves,' except the middle one, which is iharp pointed, concave, and cylindrical ; the five pair of hind feet are red, and covered with hair towards the inward margin ; the five pair of fore feet arc cheliferous ; inftead of the two foremoft are two pair of bifid feathered ones. At night we advanced with wind and tide, and anchored near the Lion's Tower, which is the firft of three remarkable tpwers in the way tp Canton, The CHINA. 1 75 1.1 183 The 25 th of Auguft. The weather was clear: a rich Chinefe threw a tortoife out of his boat, for the ufe of fuch poor people as would give themfelves the trouble to go and fetch it. After a voyage of five months and four days from Cadiz, we stf laft arrived at Huam- pu, or, as it is commonly called, Wa.m-pu. This is the place where all European fhips in the river of Canton or Ta-ho ride at anchor, and where they ftay as long as they trade in this country. We reckoned this anchoring place about four Swedifi miles from the mouth of the river, or Boccp-tyger. To Canton we had a mile and a half, and the town of Wam-pu, which is to the left when you arrive, was about half a mile off from hence. On both fides of the river we faw large low rice-fields. Here were already fixteen European fhips, and one came in after us ; fo that, befides the Chinefe boats, which anchor near the town, or in another place, this year there were 1 8 fhips. N 4 The 1*4 OSBECK'S VOYAGE, The European iliips were the following; Two Swedifh ones. Prince Charles. The Gothic Lion, which came a little before us, from Suratte. Ope Danifh. The S$ueen of Denmark. Two French : The Duke of Chartres. The Duke of Monteran. Four Dutch : The Commodore's ihip? The Conflancy9 Friburgh. Amfleveen.Geldermoufen. Nine E,nglifh 3 The Effex. Centurion^ St. George. Cdfar. True Briton^ Triton. Hardwick. Elizabeth. Succefs Gaily, a country Ihip, At f t CHINA. 1751. 185 At night we heard a fort of mufic, partly made by infects, and partly by the noife of the Gungung in the Sampanes and Bancfials. Arriving at Wam-pu, you have a large field with rice on your right, for no other corn is ufual in this country : part of this field near the river is feparated from the reft by a ditch, leading to a bancfhal, or warehoufe for Englifi, Swedifi, and Danifi fhips ; thefe fliips annually raife this place higher with their ballaft : but this time our people made a fine ftone quay where large boats could land. The French have their warehoufe on the French ifland, which lies on the left, fomewhat near er to Canton. The Dutch are forbid to come here with feveral fhips at once, or to land any baggage, having once attempted to bring cannon on ihore in water-tubs ; but, as they broke to pieces, their fcheme was difcovered. I am told that the Dutch have fince got a banc fhal, in 1761. Bangsal (in French bancafal, in Englifi bancfhal) is the place, or warehoufe, where we flow all our unneceflary wood and tackle, pitch and tar j and keep our chicken, hogs, &c, 18$ OSBECK'9 VOYAGE. &c. during our ftay in China. The fhip which comes, iirft- has the beft place. Each ihip is obliged to give a fum for the place it takes up, befides paying the comprador for erectingt (immediately after the arrival of a ihip) a Warehoufe in- form, of a barn, made of bamboo and. mats, in which there are two chambers, for the mate or bancfhal captain, who continually, watches with fome failors at both ends of the building. As long as they do not fufpect any thieves, they fliout out from one bancfhal to another, all well, and often beat the gungung, to fhew their vigilance. A liberty was former ly given to the eentinels of firing upon thq Chinefe, who ventured to get into thofe banc- flials at night ; but this is not now permitted. When an eminent ftranger pays vifits, or when the colours of a fhip are hoifted, the flags are difplayed in the bancfial. Towards the departure of a fhip, the neceffary oxen, hogs, &c. are killed in this warehoufe. Gungung is the Chinefe name, of an inftru- ment which has the greateft refemblance to a brafs bafon. In all bancfials and factories, a fignal on this inftrument is given every half hour, in the fame manner as is done on-board by CHPKA. 1 75 1. 1 8> by a bell: They give one knock at half an- hour paft twelve, two at one o'clock, and fo on till four o'clock, when they give eight thumps, to fignify that eight half hours- are paft : at half an hour after four, they begin- again in the fame manner ; fo that at four, eight, and twelve o'clock, eight thumps are always given on this inftrument. The Chinefe drum on this inftru- riient at their feftivals, and fet fire to little boats of gilt paper, and throw then? into the fea, as a part of their morning. and evening amufement on fuch occafions. On board the fhips is a quarter-mafter, or ca det, whP ftands near the cpmpafs, and cries out, when the half-hotir glafsis run down, to him who is near the bell, how many pulls he muft give. The Danifi Ifland (which bears that name becaufe that nation commonly bury their dead in that place) is oppofite to the Bancfial. The French ifland is the next above the Danifi : this is the burying-place of the Eng lifh '* Swedes, French, and Dutch. However, in both iflands there are likewife fome Chinefe graves. 1S8 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. graves. There are every where gardens, pro ducing fuch fruits as in our country would be cultivated in hot-houfes as rarities. But high. places are never cultivated, becaufe the fun entirely burns up whatfoever grows upon them. The 26th of Auguft. It began to rain, and rained for four days together. In the morning we faluted, and the Danifi ihip returned the falute. The Eaft India company had recommended it to us, that nothing ihould be taken from hence to Sweden by the crew, except a few pounds of fugar, tea, and fome gallons of arrack, as provifions for the voyage. This order I read the next day after the thankfgiv- ing for our happy arrival •, and it was after wards twice repeated before our departure. Cyprinus Cantonenfis was thought to be the common carp, but it was nearer allied to the Griftagine : Faun. Sue. 367. It is above a foot long: the dorfal fin has 10 rays, and ftonds in the middle of the back : the peiloral Jim CHINA. 1751. 189 fins have 2 1 rays : the ventral fins have nine rays, and are equally diftant from the pectoral fins and from the anus : the anal fin has 1 1 rays: the tail is bifurcated, and confifts of 26 rays. This fifh has no beard (cirrhus) : the iris is yellowifh : the nofirils are at the top, in the flat part of the head, and are but little : the membrana branchiofiega is foft and promi nent : the Jcales are rhomboidal, and are fla belliform. The 30th of Auguft. Fine dry weather. The French, who faluted our ihip, Were honoured with fome guns fired at their arrival and departure. The 1 ft of September. The lead which we unloaded to-day, and the day before, was weighed by a Chinefe, who proclaimed the weight of it aloud, and three 190 OS.BECK'5 VOYAGE. three other, Chinefe wrote it down, intheprg* fence of feveral Mandarins r. The 2d of September. : Sam .pan is a Ch'wtfe J?pat without a keel* looking almoft like a trough, 5 they are made" . of different , dimenfions, but ,are -flioftly go* Vered. There are, Passenger Sampanes, to carry people" backward and forward between the town and the fhips. Thefe you may hire every day; and you may either take larger ones Tow-eytint or lefa ones Suutin. They are quicker than you would expect, provided you take.advan.tagg of the ebb or flood* These boat9 are as long as Hoops, bu£ broader, almoft like a baking trough; and have at the end one or more decks of Bamboo' '. Here our author has jnfert^d an hjftory of China, ex tracted from books in the hands of moft Englifi readers j We .have therefore omitted it* as uninterefting. flicks t CHIN A. 1751. iqe flicks: the cover, or roof, is made of Bamboo (licks, arched over in theihape of a grater; and may be raifed or lowered at pleafure : the fides are made of boards, with little 'holes, with ihutters inftead of windows : the boards are faftened on both fides to pofts, which have notches like fteps on the infides, that the roof . may be let down, and reft on them : on both ends of the deck are commonly two little doors,' at leaft there is one at the hindmoft end. A fine- white fmooth carpet fpread up as far as the*boards makes the floor, which in • the middle confifts of loofe boards ; but this carpet is only made ufe of to fleep on. As thefe boats greatly differ from ours in fhape, they.are likewife rowed in a different manner : for two rowers, pofting themfelves at the back end of the fampane, work it forwards very readily, by the motion of two oars ; and can almoft turn the veffel juft as they pleafe : the oars, which are covered with a little hollow quadrangular iron, are laid on iron fwivels,. which are faftened in the fides of the fampane : at the iron the oars are pieced, which makes them look a little bent : in common, a rower fits before with a fhort oar ; but this he is forced to lay afide when he comes near the city, 'on account of the great throng of fam-. 5 panes; t9i OSBECK'S VOYAGE. panes; and this incorivenierice has confirmed the Chinefe in their old way of rowing. In ftead df pitch, they make ufe of a cemefit like our putty, which we call Chtndm, but the Chinefe call it Kiang. Some authors fay that this cement is made of lime and a rezin exfuct- ing from the tree Tong Tea, and Bambot cckam. The fampane in which I went this time had, befides a Couple of chairs, the following furni ture : two oblong tables, or boards, on which fome Chinefe characters Were drawn ; a lan- thom for the night time; and a pot to boil rice in. They have alfo a little coVer for their houf' hold god, decorated with gilt paper and other ornaments : before him ftood a pot, filled with allies, into which the tapers were put before the idol. The candles were nothing elfe than Bamboo chips, to the upper end of which faw-duft of fandal-woodwas ftuck on with gum. Thefe tapers are every where lighted before the idols in the pagodas, and before the doors in the ftreets ; and, in fo large a city, oc- cafion a fmoke very pernicious to the eyes*, Before this idol ftood fome Samfo, or Chinefe brandy* GHINA. -1751. 193 brandy, water, 8tc. We ought to try' whe ther the Chinefe would not like to ufe junipef- Wo'od inftead of fandal-wood ; which latter comes from Sur'dtte, and has~ almoft the fame fmell rwith juniper* Fisher mens fampanes are the leaft of all, narrow like fome Of our fiihing boats* and have a very little deck, of ftraw or bamboo ; or are even without that poor convenience B.ad as thefe boats are* yet parents -and theii naked children are feen to .get their livelihood - in them both fummer and winter, by fiihing, and by picking up what has been thrown over board by others. For tin? purpofe - they tie feveral hooks to a cord, and throw them out in' different places, almoft in the. fame manner as filhermen in our country lay their'eel hooks; They have better or worfe - fortune as it hap pens'.- .There is nothing io filthy but what thefe.p'eople will ufe as food : and the hogs which die arid are thrown over-board, 'and, by beginning to putrify, float in a few days, are often the ' occafion of fuch quarrels as end in battles. The reafon why >the Europeans fink the hogs which die on board their ffaips is, that the inhabitants of this place njay not feed' lapon them"; for > it is faid- that the Chinefe, Voi. I. O wh;n t94 OSBECrS VOYAGE. when they go on-board any fhips, will give pepper to the hogs, which they think is poifon to them, that they may get them again if they fhould die. It is certain that numbers of hog? die in the poffeffion of the Europeans, whilft they ftay in China. Duck fampanes axe boats in which they feed four or five hundred ducks. They have on both fides a bridge which may be let down. In the day time the ducks feed in the river, Upon herbs and fifh ; at night their mailer calls them into his boat ; they immediately obey hirii, and come on-board as foon as he lets down his bridge. Sampanes of burden are the largeft boats, by means of which all porcelain, filk, and other commodities, are conveyed from Canton to the European fhips. But I do not mean that thefe boats ferve for the above mentioned pur pofe only ; for they are ufed befides as houfes for whole families ; which are born, marry, and die in them. They commonly have, be fides hogs, fome chicken, and dogs ; and fome flower pots,„ containing Guinea pepper,, or, fome other plants, in thefe boats. All the above,- - CHINA. ^751. 19-5 above mentioned fampanes ate not embelliflied .by painting; ''Mawparin fampanes^ are greater or lefs red-paihted boats* brnairiented with dragons^ and fuch like figures* of with little flags. The Chinefe alfo ufe Galleys, Sao-Sjo-anj, With teighteeri or twenty oars, arid as many mert. They lie near the city of Canton, and foaie of them near the European fhips* proba bly for the fecurity of the country. juNKS, called Toan-fiun by the 'Chinefe; or* as Du Halde calls them* Thouen, in the Portu- gueze language Soma or Sommes, are the great-? er veffels* about 200 feet long, arid 20 broad; With thefe fhips the Chinefe fail along the coafts of Bdtavia^ Manilla, Ainam, Cochin- china, Cambogia, Chinchiu. From the laft mentioned place comes the white fugar calldy* which at prefent cofts fix tale, three mace pec- kuls. Such a veffel holds 1060 chefts of tea :' it is high and round On each fide : the rudder is very flender* and cart be taken out with very little difficulty, and hung at the ether end of the fhip : k has no upper fails ; but only one' giteat fail, the fore-faflj the fprit-fail, and the O 2 rriizzert- i9'6 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. mizzen-fail, all which are made of mats, tieci together quite acrofs with bamboo-flicks. They ftrike their fails with difficulty, as they can only effeft it by fending a failor up the yard to tread the fails down. In thefe veffels there is a continual noife, becaufe the perfon in com mand does not infill on filence ; they are paint ed either black or white, and have always an eye painted on each fide. Their compafs is divided into 24 points. The timber of which thefe fhips are built, is. called Saaomock: the anchors are made of hard wood, which is called Tat-Jiew, or Tie-mou; but they are com monly plated with iron at the extremities, and are more handy than our anchors -of iron, and of mere fervice to lhtle yeffels. I should hate overlooked the Dung-Sam- panes, if their fmell had not been fo difagree* able as we paffed by ; arifing from the human excrements contained in thefe veffels. In Canton, near the port, fome great tuns fillted with it are put under ground, which after ftaying there fome time, are emptied into thefe veffels and "carried to the plantations, where they have walled pits into which they put this dung, mix it with water, ftir it Well, and after wards ¦C A I N A. 1751, 197 jyards, ufe it every where in the country for manure, The rice fields, which are green on both fides of the river, as far as your eye can reach, the fine woods, which confift of rqany forts of trees, the hills, and the vallies, make the view beautiful, particularly on the left fide ; but the wet condition of the rice fields, and a miftruft of the inhabitants, did not allow me to examine things more nearly, There are three' cuftom houfes, where all thofe who go in the Chinefe boats between the town and the fhips are forced to ftay. Our people generally call them Tiapp-Houfes". These Tiapp-Houfes are built in part on a hard ftony ground, and partly over the river, fuppprted, by pofts. They have a bridge fo contrived, that the boats may come to them at all times, as well during the ebb as the flood. And, that no one may plead ignorance, they pafte their regulations on the walls; and befides that, clofe to the houfe, ftands a flags marked with large Chinefe characters. The p palled by the Englifh JJIoppo-Houfes. O J Hoop* 19* OSBECK'S VOYAGE. flobps of the Europeans pafs free with th&ifc flags, to the factory, where' the cuftonl-houfg officers receive them. If any pne gpes from a fhip to Canton, and fliews the Tiapp which the Mandarin gave him, in each of the two firft cuftom-houfes, an oblong red feal is put upon it ; but in the laft cuftam-houfe the Tiapp is left. Returning from Canton, you obtain a Tiapp from the In? terpreter, and a Comprador goes with you to] the next cuftam-houfe, where you are fearched, and the Tiapp is fealed : in the other cuftom- houfes they pbferye the fame methpd as in the. going, to Canton. To go with the fide to Canton, and likewife down with it, is by far the moft expeditious iad agreeable way. In coming from the fhips,, the firft cuftom-houfe is on the right hand, not far from them, and is called— The Wampu Tiapp-houfe by the Europeans; in ' file Chinefe language it is called Huamp-Siogun.} Near the entry flood a Pomegranate Tre?r Hibifcus mutabilis, Rofa Indica, &c. Huampu is a litfje tqwn behind the cuftom-houfe, havT CHINA. 1751. *9p tag a tower with riiae ftories, which fhe Chinefe call Pa-tiaw w . These towers ferve as ornaments to the cities, and, as the Chinefe .affirm, as a meaftife to the roads : but the inhabitants contradict what fome hiftories have advanced, that thefe towers are ufed in times of war, as watcK towers: on the different ftories of thefe towers grew trees and plants, but I could not deter mine their kinds, being at too great a diftance ; fomewhat further on, I faw the mouth of ano ther river, through which the larger Chinefe boats pafs. There was a Pagoda, with feveral houfes. On the fhore grew in feveral places, Saccharum pluviatile and Cyperus odoratus. The Chhefe here catch fifh, by putting up mats along the ihore, while the tide is in, which hinder the fry from returning with the ebb. As foon as the water was fallen, many people were Teen wading up to the knees in the blue clayey ground mixed with farid, after the little fry, which jumped about in the mud like lizards ; but when they faw no means of faving themfelves, they crept a foot deep intc* f Pagoda, O 4 the 2QP OSBECK'S VOYAGE. the oozy ground, not without the knowledge of . the Chinefe, who took care to obferve. them, and pulled them out with their hands ; thefe fifh, ,fryed in oil, are the principal food of the poor, .befides rice; and are of two* fpecies, as will .appear froni the following defcriptions. ' i. Fay -ye, or (Gobius pecliniroftris Linn.) The membrana branchiofiega has four very fmall rays ; the dorfal fins are afli- coloured, with blue tranfverfal lines, and black fpots at the bottom : the firft dorfal fin. is higher, reaches from oppofite the breaft, to the middle of the back, and lias, fix rays ; the fecond has twenty- fix very fhort rays, and reaches from the middle of the back, to over-againft the anus; the pectoral fins have eighteen rays ; the fingle ventral fin is- infundibuliform, fits clofe to the liead, and has ten rays; the anal fin has twenty. fix parallel rays : all, the fins but the dorfal ones are brownifh ; the head is narrow, fmooth, |Ktd of the fame breadth with the middle, of the body ; the mouth is large and oblong ; the fore- jbeadftat; the tongue lacerated and truncated; '.¦the teeth are little, pointed, ftrait, unequal in the upper jaw ; they ftand only in one row, in the middle are few, in the lower jaw they fill up the whole margin 5 -the lips are fhort, and dp ; not CHINA 1751. 201 not cover the teeth : I have not difcovered that they have any nofirils ; the eyes are elevated, very prominent, oblong, - and ftand near one another on the head 5 the pupilla is blue ; the irides of a golden colour ; the back grey, with red and blue dirty fpots ; the belly whitifh ; the whole body oblong, as long as a man's hand, and as it were compreffed. 2. Tan-noao (Gobius niger Linn.) The membrana branchiofiega has four rays ; the firft dorfal fin is almoft quadrangular in the middle of the back, and has eleven rays ; the fecond is longer, and lefs, oppofite the anus, has ten rays, is tranfparent on both fides, with tranf verfal black lines ; the fingle ventral fin forms a funnel, and has twelve rays; the anal fin has thirteen rays ; the fpace between the fecond dorfal fin and the tail, and that between the, anal fin and the tail, is equal to the breadth of one's little finger ; the tail ends is a point, and has eighteen rays, of which the outermoft are the ihorteft; the body is the fame as that of the preceding fifh, except its having more white and dirty black grey ; the head is large, and has very fmall white dots ; the mouth is much lefs, and almoft round : I faw 202 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. faw here a net drawn by two Chinefe up tq their chins in water. Duck Sampanes lay on the ihore : hundreds of ducks came into the boat, as foori as the owner let down the bridge and called them. , The Brandy Tower was fomewhat further off, on the left ; the Chinefe call it Tie-koang ; When the failors come dVer-againft h, and can fee light quite acrofs the windows of the tower* from their floop, they are entitled to a draught of brandy. This cuftom gives name to the tower, which is half way between Wampu and Canton. The Lazarus tree is further up on the right; it was faid, that people having the leprofy, and pther nafty difeafes, lived under this tree* which has very luxuriant branches. Some little inns, which ftand feveral of them clofe together, fomewhat higher up on pofts,' above the river, make the beginning of the fuburbs : before them lie innumerable fmall and great fampanes quite crowded, as Well as junks or large Chinefe veffels; which occafion ' the paffage tp be very narrow and difficult, by the boats C H/I M A, 1751, 203 boats meeting each other in fc. contracted a fpace. We now flopped at the fecond cuftom- houfe, called Toang-pack-toy in the Chinefe language 5. having juft before paffed a caftle in the middle of the river, which was on our left ; another caftle is fomewhaf higher up ; both were for-! rounded by trees : I was told, that the Dutch had built one of thefe forts. The third cuftom- houfe is the principal : it |s near the factories, and the Chinefe call ic Tay-quam-Song-gunn ; it is the laft you meet with before you get to Canton ; .the cuftam- houfe papers (Tiaps) are taken in and kept here. If you were to go from Canton to Bocca-tyger, you need not flop at any other cuftom-houfe, except thefe three, though there are many others between thefe places ; for next to Huam-po is the fpurth, called Oty ; the fifth is called O-tyoqng ; the fixth, Baxia-t funn ; the feventh Toann-tao ; and the eighth, Pbo-munn, or the cuftpm-hpufe of Bocca-tyger, pr the mouth of the Tyger, The tower of Canton was the third that We faw on this cqute, 204 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The Factory is the firft place in the fuburbs to which the Europeans come : this is a general denomination of the houfes built towards the river, or over it upon piles, and which are let by the Chinefe merchants to the European fhips during their ftay : this time is fometimes five months, and fometimes a year ; which long delay, though it may arife from accidental caufes, is often by defign, left feveral fhips coming home at once ihould glut the market with Chinefe goods : during this time the Eu* ropeans lend money to a great advantage in China ; but a perfon who has not borrowed eonfiderable fums himfelf runs great rifque, when he lends his money in a place where the debtor is often fought for in vain. Commonly each fhip takes a factory for itfelf; but fome times two fhips of a nation, may be together, and this time it happened fo to two Swedifi {hiris, and if I remember right, they paid 900 tel for it, which, at the rate of feven dollars per tel, make 6300 dollars in filver. The above-mentioned houfes are but two ftories high, but very long ; and one end of them ftretches towards the river, and the other to the fastory-ftreet : fome are built, of un burnt bricks, others of bricks and wood laid crofi" 'CHINA 1751. 265 c*rofs-ways ; but the partitions and upper floors', &c. are fometimes entirely of wood : therefore they are fo poorly provided againft fire, that on the feventh of December 1743, m three or four hours, more than 150 houfes were re duced to afhes : the fire, for want of proper regulation, would have fpread farther, if it had not been for Commodore Anfvn and his men : the inhabitants, who believe ari inevitable deftiny, were merely fpectators, not attempting to extinguifh it. The factories. look like two houfes built parallel and near to each other, between which there is a court yard ; the floor of the lower ftory is covered, like the court yard, with fquare or rather oblong ftones ; in thefe ftones are here and there little holes, through which the water may run into the river ; the flair-cafes are either of ftone or wood ; the rooms are high, and the roofs are Hoping and covered with tiles, like thofe in Spain. Windows are made in the roofs, but they are fquare, and lefs than thofe in the walls : there are no ceilings up flairs below the roof : a room has feldom windows on more than one fide ; thefe are long, and narrow, with wooden bows, and have fquare panes of mother of pearl, 9P6 OSBECK'S VOf^GE, pearl, but the poorer fort make -ufe of other fhells ; which are the breadth of a hand each way. Lead and glafs are fiever to be met with in a Chinefe window; thefe windows ftand open in day time, becaufe they do not give fufficient light; at night they are fhut, to keep put gnats, bats, &c. In the lower ftory are few windows, and thofe look imp the inner court. Near fome of the rooms is a little garden, of the fize of a middling room. The doors, when opened, give fufficient light to thefe apartments ; for the fide towards the garden is quite free. The garden encroaches no farther on the court yard than the projection of the building. From the exceflive heats, the door? are moftly kept open ; but a nanking curtain is commonly hung up before them, with three pieces of wood plated with brafs ; one of which is at the top, one in the middle, and one at the bottom. Our hangings confiftecj of white Chinefr paper, pafted to the wall.. Though this paper is very fmooth, yet lizards (lacerta Chinenfis) run with fuch agility up and down the walls* that they can fcarce be caught. In furamer time CHINA. 1751. 207 time they abound in the houfes, but in winter they difappear : they do no harm, but merely feek for their food, which is mill-beetles and other infects. The Chinefi padlocks are made in fuch a manner that many of them may be opened with one key ; and therefore it is a proper precaution to bring fome from Europe. The company finds in every room a table, chairs, and a bed, with curtains of gauze, or blue 7ianking-i\nW. You are obliged to draw your curtains quite clofe, to keep put Mufquitoes, a fpecies of gnats, which is very trpublefome at night; and whofe fling is fometimes the caufe of incurable com plaints. Hence the influence of different climates appears : for in our country the bite of a flea, and the fling of a gnat, are reckoned equal j but it is quite otherwife in China, though thefe gnats are the fame with. ours. In each room is likewife a lamp, faftened to the roof by a long rope. The Chinefe do the 5 fame toi OSBECK'S VOYAGE. fame in their houfes, though they have both white wax candles and others, which they call Lapp-tiock. Thefe latter looked as if they were' made of tallow ; but, as I fuppofe, were made of the fruit of the tallow-tree. The out ward layer of thefe candles, which is red and ftiff, is called Nan-cy in the Chinefe language* Some kept, on the outride before the win-' dows,' in a glafs bowl, gold and filver fifties, called Kamni-ko by the Chinefe. Their colours fhift like thofe of the fined birds. For their food, a fpecies of plants was put into the water, the leaves of which refem ble Ceratophyllum demerfum Gf Pifliaftratiotes, which is here called Siu-yan-gai. Others had, befides thefe fifties, feveral little trees in flower-pots, before the windows, fuch as are likewife cultivated in their nurfe- ries and gardens ; videlicet, a fort of low fweet orange trees, with a fmall fruit which is called Gatt here ; moreover the Lemt-yes tree, which bears little round four lemons called Na- mang in China, and which are ufed inftead of tamarinds, or common lemons, in punch, and generally C H I N A. 1751.- 2o£ generally before they are ripe; Befides1 thefe" are the following plants : Capftcum frutefcens; Thuya orientalise Lanfa, or Leenfa Chinenfium. Moquaifa Chinenf. Nyclanihes orientalis, wood of fofes. Celofia eryftata, in the Chinefe language Latfeo. Narciffus Tazetta,, or Chinefe lilies^ which' flower in January, and are called Soifinn-fatt by the Chinefe. Their culture requires Tittle art; they'ohly put fo much coarfe fand upon a tin plate as' juft covers it, and upon this they fet the brilbs quite naked.- Thefe were fooner in flower' when the bulbs were prevented fttikihg downy Wards. Gomphrena globofa. Impatiens balfamina. Vol.- L- P Jpomcetf 2io OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Jpomcea £>uamocUt, in China called Kam-fan- fang, which adorned the hedges without the city. The tea-chefts and porcelane-chefts, and other effects which are to be taken home, are piled up on both fides of the yard. This yard is divided quite acrofs by three arched walls: in fome places of the yard buildings like coach-houfes run quite acrofs it, which are fometimes fupported by arched roofs. A -factory is moftly built in the following manner: near the entrance of the ftreet of the factory, on both fides of the gate, is a little apartment, upon which are - commonly fome papers with figures like arms, and two round lanthorns of bamboo, covered with fkins ; for glafs or horn lanthorns are quite unufual here. The gate of the factory is on the infide built over : dirertly behind it ftands a high board almoft as broad as the entrance, to hinder the people in the ftreets from looking into the yard or court, without being any obftacle to thofe who pafs to and fro. In almoft all cor ners are buckets into which people make wa- ,ter, which is afterwards carried upon the fields. " The CHIN A.j 175 1. ai i The foremoft rooms on the fides look like kitchens* and have rails before them. Fur ther on, quite acrofs the court, in the fecond* ftory, is an open hall, with a fort of gallery, upon which is an altar covered with flowers' and incenfe, provided with a gilt picture and a table. Behind this the yard is quite open iri front, but on the fides are rooms both above and below. In the fide roofs are here and there fome lanthorns of painted gauze* in fome df which they burn lamps at; night. Be fore the fide roofs, and on their fides, are lit tle gardens, with bamboo trees, citrons* and plaintains* and other trees already mentioned. The wall about thefe trees towards the yard is made of brick, which, except the founda tion, are laid like lattice work. Next to thefe gardens is an inclofed court-yard* arid then an; open one, with rooms and gardens for plea fure on the fides : the laft of all is a hall in the fecond ftory acrofs the yard, having rooms" on its fides, and another hall goes towards the" water, which we fitted up for a dining-room. Below it is the kitchen, the watch-houfe of the failors* and the lodging of the captain pf the factory. The captain of the factory has a mate, who is to take care that the failors and Chinefe workmen dp their bulinefs: and he notes- P 2 dpWES -12 OSBECK'S voyage:. down thofe people who come from or go to the* ftiips with fampanes of burden. In the facto ries live the fupercargo* the afliftants,, the purfers* the cooks, and other fervants, during the whole time of their ftay ;. and befides- them, thofe who. come occafipnally thither from the fhips- There are continually fome failors, who watch with drawn fwords- in their hands, ta hinder thofe from entering who have no right.. They indicate the time upon the Gungung; and beat upon it as it were upon a drum with' flicks, when dinner or fupper is ready.. Every thing is carefully kept in the factories, both- effects coming from the fhips,- videlicet, money, lead, cloth, rarfins, almonds* &e. and thofe which are to be embarked; as porcelane, tea*- filk, and many other, things, which are. brought On board by the fampanes of burden, after- fome mandarins, appointed foB that purpofe, have weighed them, and ftamped a feal upon them. In each fampane, loaded with thefe and other things, goes a mandarin and fome armed failors from the fa&ory to . the ihip to guard them, left the mafter of the fampane fliould defraud them, as often happens not* withftafidhrg thefe regulations. .The fuper- eacgo- C H I N A. 1751. 213 'targo always fends a letter to the captain, or whoever has the command of the fhip, with an account of all the boxes and_packs, and the failors bring an anfwer back. The flag of the factory ftands on the water-fide., and is hoifted *>n all feftivals. Our fliips are obliged to have a Fiador; For that purpofe one of the richeft and moft refpertable merchants is generally chofen, who is anfwerable for all damages to the company.; and in cafe an European ihould wrong a Chinefe, muft make -up matters in the beft manner pof- fible, &c Our Fiador's name was Suqua. The name we give to the Chinefe fervants is Kulier. Thefe wait at table in the factories, bring in the meat, wafh the difhes, &c. clean the knives and forks, fill the lamps in the yard and rooms with oil at night, clean the veffels, and do the like hufinefs; which the Chinefe valets de chambre look upon as trifling, •in regard to fweeping the rooms, aflifling in carrying tlie tea-chefts, and other wares in and out, &c. These, and a Chinefe cook, are paid by the company. Befides thefe, every one, or feve- P 3 ™J 3i4 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. ral together* hire a Chinefe fervant, who % paid fome dollars per month. This perfotj buys every thing you want? and frequently by this means avails himfelf more than by his Wages. Happy is the man who has not the misfortune of hiring a thief into his ; houfe: but often however it is the cafe. The city pf Canton is the trading place of China, whence all the European fliips fetch their Chinefe wares, fince the trade upon A-moy has ceafed : the merchants came hither froiri -thence. Canton lies in a province of the fame name, under 23 deg. -8 min. north latitude, and 950 30' longitude, or 6 hours 22 min. eaft •£r0m Upfal; but 3 deg. 31 min. weft from the meridian of Peking. One fide of it lies on the banks of the river, from which one or more canals crofs the fuburbs. The houfes jare built on both fides clofe to the ftone bridges which go over the canal ; which, for this rea fon, is not immediately perceived. Both the bid and the new city have the name of Can ton : the latter is not fortified : the old town, which has been built many centuries,, has high walls and feveral gates : each gate has a centi- nel, in order that no European may get in, except under particular circumftances, with the leave CHINA. 1751. 215 leave of. people of note; in this cafe you are carried into the city in a covered chair, and thus you do not get a fight of any thing worth notice in the place. The centinels have whips inftead of muikets. Three fourths of this fortified town (which, as we are told, is inha bited on one fide by the Tartars, on tlie other by Chinefe) is furrounded by the fuburbs. On the outfide of that part of the city which is open to the country, is a fine walk between the wall and the ditch. The plantations begin clofe to the ditches ; they are moftly on low grounds, contain all forts of greens, roots and rice, and reach as far as you can fee. The dry hills ferve for burying places, and paftures for cattle. The city wall confifts of hewn fand-ftones, is covered with all forts of little trees and plants, videlicet, Ficus Indica, Urtica nivea, &c. and on the top of them are centry boxes j however, the watch is fo ill obferved, , that ftrangers pairing by are often welcomed with fuch a volley of ftones that their lives are endan<- gered ; as happened to an Englifiman during my ftay. It is faid that on the walls are fome eight or nine pounders ; at leaft it is certain, that at eight o'clock at night their report is P 4 heard, ii6 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. heard. I had no- opportunity of meafuriag the circuit of the city, but it feemed to me to pe above a Swedifi mile *. I know nothing of the infide of this city, except what repprt fays of it ; namely, that befides the merchants and ladies, it is inhabited by people of the higheft rank. Tsang-tp, pr Tfan-tack, is theprincipal per fon in this town, who has the whole command not only of the militia, but alfo of the pro vince and the cities round about ; and is com pared to a viceroy by the Europeans. The in ferior lords fall upon their knees before him : his retinue is magnificent, as we had an oppor? tunity of obferving when he honoured us with a vifit. Fu yenn is the next in rank toTfangto in this town. HAPrA is the principal officer of the cuf tom-houfe. The high court of judicature at Cantonhas 17 other towns under its jurifdictbn, one of ? That is, about fl* milei three quarters Englifi. F. which CHINA. 1751. 217 Which is of the fecond, and the reft of the ¦third rank. The fubufbs of Canton (in which the Eu ropeans live during the time they .trade here) are much greater than the fortified city. The ftreets are long, feldom ftrait, about a fathom wide more or lefs, paved like the court yards, with oblong fand-ftones, (Cos Chi- nenfts) without any gutters. The ftones are full of holes, that the water may run off; for the town, at leaft a part of it, is built on piles. Nothing is more common than to fee Chinefe hogs, dogs, and chicken, about the ftreets, and in the houfes : yet every thing is cleanly here, becaufe poor people continually go about with bafkets and gather up all the filth. I never faw any other animals, fuch as are ufual with us, not even horfes, though they are to be met with in the country : where alfo I faw buffaloes, which were kept off from the plantations (which have feldom any fence round them) by people appointed for that purpofe. No carriage is to be met with in the city ; and whatever is brought from one pUce to another, fuch as hogs, ducks, frogs, iriails, roots, greens, &c. is all carried on men's si8 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. men's ihoulders in two bafkets, hanging on the extremities of apple. Living fifh were carried about in buckets ; The Chinefe keep them in the following man ner in their houfes : The fifti are put into large water veffels in the ftreets, but each veffel ftands under a fpout which comes out of the wall ; out of which the water runs continually, but flowly, upon the fifh : and for this reafon they were always to be got quite as frefh as if they had. juft been caught, Fish cut to pieces were carried about for fale on litde tables, which hung on poles as above defcribed : the fame was done with ba con, and Fdaufu, a difh which is like our fweef cheefe, but which was prepared pf Clfir\efe beans (Dolichos Chinenfis). Persons that carry any thing muft continu ally be calling to the people that thrpng the. principal ftreet, to clear the way. Palankin, or Chinefe chairs, carried by two half naked Chinefe, pn the fhpulders with out CHINA. 1754. 219 out ftraps, were to be hired out of the city, at the rate of half a piaftre. Most of the houfes are built of bricks, and are in general as high as the aforemen tioned factories, but fometimes lower. -They contain merchants fliops, working-places, and the ladies houfes, which are far removed from j:he ftreets. The ladies are continually confined ; and in fliops or working -places are only men, and perhaps fometimes a blind beggar woman. Some merchants have feveral fhops in one houfe, and quite clofe to one another, in a line ; but befides them fcarce any other apart ments. They leave their houfes at night, and go home to their ladies. In the outward fhop they commonly have coarfe porcellane, fuch as the Chinefe themfelves buy, a. quantity of toys, and the like. This fhop is quite open towards the ftreet, fo that the people that pafs by may fee every thing in it. In the middle pf it is an opening to another vault, filled alfo with porcellane on both fides, but of a .finer kind, and for the Europeans, who are here not fo much peftered with impudent Chi nefe, 22© OSBECK'S VOYAGE. ~*ftefe. Behind this is another for filks, velvets, and fuch like commodities. In fome fhops the next vaults have tea or other commodities of this kind. On great feftivals thefe long, narrow houfes are opened, illuminated and or namented with artificial flowers and tree?, which look as if they were the work of nature itfelf. The laft vault is for the muficians. In the porcellane ftreet, which is the broad- eft in the whole tow«, are feveral of thefe houfes, with many arches or vaults one after another, in which is nothing but porcellane. The lefs merchants are fatisfied with about two ihops, one behind another ; in the firft of which, as juft mentioned, is coarfe porcellane, aud in the other all forts of other wares, as £Ik, fluffs, handkerchiefs, ribbands, cotton- ftuffs, Indian ink, painted paper, tea, fnuff- boxes of mother of pearl, tortoife fliells {cypraa), fans, tea-boxes made of tutanego, or of copper, with a porcellane enamel, Englifi knives, &c. In the inward vault is a flair cafe to a gal lery which goes above the outermoft vault, and gets its light from windows towards the ftreet. CHINA. 1751. 22i fireet. They ufe it as a dining-room, or fome times to work in, &c. In a place like tliis, the famous Face-maker was at work, who makes mens figures, moftly in miniature. Eu ropeans often go to this man to be reprefentcd in their ufual drefs ; and fometimes he hits them exceedingly well. The upper rooms above-mentioned,, the floor, the partition, the lattice-work, as alfo doors, flair-cafes, and rails towards the ftreets* are commonly all of wood. On the outride,, before the ihops and working-places, hang boards,, on which the name of the merchant or tradefman is written, in large Chinefe characters : on the fides are other boards, on which the wares are marked. . Instead of ovens and chinmies, floves are made ufe of here, which draw very well. The pots in which they boil rice and other meats. look clumfy,. as if they were made of eaft iron ; their fhape was pretty much like the cup of an acorn. People of the fame trade commonly liveia the fame ftreet together. The factory ftreet has merchants fliops, joiners* japanners, and; workers- in mother of pearl. The 222 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The porcellane ftreet is known for its fine vaults, containing porcellane. In the other ftreets are a number of druggifts, and apothe caries, flower-makers, dyers, umbrella-makers,: book-binders, mirrour-makers, fmiths, taylors, ihoe-makers, diftillers of famfu, ftone-mafons, and fome goldfmiths. In the apothecaries fliops (of which there are a great many) hung fome flags horns on the cieling and walls, as alfo a number of dried plants, unknown in our country. I never could obferve that theiy mixed fe-' veral things together, or that they fold any electuaries, effences, and the like ; but only fome roots, partly entire, partly cut in pieces. The people bought thefe medicines without prefcriptions, and cured themfelves as well as they could. Yan-sam, or Tan-fom, is the Chinefe name of a root, which is to be got in our apothecaries fliops by the name of Ninfi (Panax quinque folia, Linn.) ; every ounce of it cofts at prefent go. or 40 ounces of filver : the root is whitifh, fomewhat like parfhips, but fcarce fo large ; it often divides into two ftalks, in which the Chinefe CHINA. 1751. 223 Chinefe find the refemblance of a man, for which reafon they have given it the afore mentioned name. It is fomewhat knobby, or as it were in rings ; and fo it is in the infide. It is hard ; and the heavier the better. Yan-sam, or, as we commonly fay, Ginfeng, is not allowed to be imported into China, be caufe it grows wild in that country. Duhalde, in his Defcription of China, Vol. II. fays, that it grows in Tartary from 39 to 49 degrees la titude ; that it was to be met with in fields furrounded with woods, as alfo in Woods on the banks of rivers, on the roots of trees, and near mountains, but was never to be found in vallies, moraffes, and open fields ; and that the Tartars call it Orhota, that is, Captain of the Plants. When Father Jartona undertook to make a map of Tartary, he defcribed this plant ; which is likewife, though feldom, found in Setchuen. In American is called Ga- rentouges, or human thighs. Notwithftanding the order againft importing it, the Europeans buy that in Spain which comes from America, and import it privately ; but I fear that they get fcarce half what it cofts in China. The Chinefe are of opinion that the Weft Indian roots of Ginfeng axt not fo good as theirs ; for 4 " that 224 OSBECK'S VOYAGE, that reafon they haflg it over a boiling pot, & that it may fweat, and dry it afterwards. I never looked into their apothecaries ihops, btit. they were always felling Ginfeng. Both poor people and thofe of the higheft rank make ufe of it. According to their opinion, it is an exp edient remedy for a confumption, and other difeafes, if they boil half an ounce in their' tea or foup, every morning. In 1709 the Emperor gave orders to 10,000 Tartars to go- in queft of thefe roots, and to bring as much as they could find ; of which every one was to give two pounds of the beft to the Emperor, and to fell the reft for the fame weight of fine filver. In this manner the Emperor got 20,009 Katye, or Chinefe pounds of Tan-fam, in that ¦one year. I was greatly defirous of getting fome knowledge of the Chinefe officinal herbs, and- the difeafes againft which they are made ufe of. On this account I applied to thofe whoa were able to inftruct me in this branch of knowledge ; and offered moderate rewards i but it was abfolutely impoflible ; for firft I could form no idea of their inward difeafes^. as the people themfelves are not able to give a clear defeription of them; and the mere 1 names- CHINA. 175*. -25 names of difeafes are as incomprehenfible to us, as ours' to them. When they grow fick, they go into the ladies apartments, which no ftranger is allowed to enter. Secondly, their officinal plants themfelves were unknown ; and that the more, as none of them are to be met with in the apothecaries fliops with the parts of fructification : and I could not, even for money, get one to fliew me the place where they grew. It is probable they get them at a confiderable diftance ; fince, notwithftanding my walks about the town, I never found a fingle ' one in the places I was allowed to go to, fuch as gardens, environs of villages* hills, ditches, and rice fields. Thirdly, As foon as a.' Chinefe obferves you want to be ac quainted with thefe particulars, he is either filent, or gives you a falfe account ; as I have often obferved from the different relations of feveral perfons ; which at laft made me very loth to make any more enquiries. I finally confidered, that the Chinefe officinal plants Would not thrive in our climate ; that if any were of ufe in fome difeafes, we fhould be forced to get them from China, ' and fo increafe the revenues of its inhabitants unneceffarily, when we are already provided with a fufficient number of medicines. We have many plants Vol. I. Q in $i6 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. in our country, which have not yet been tried in medicine. The goldfmiths work pretty well, and com monly cheaper than in our country ; but they do not think it inconriftent with their characters to cheat. In filver fnuff-boxes, plates of lead have been found ; not to mention other frauds. Their touch-ftones nearly refemble an egg in fhape, and were like our pebbles. Snuff-boxes are made of feveral forts of ftones, commonly called fiuors, of mother of pearl, falfe agate from Sumatra, and of tortoife fhells ; fome have Japan copper on the infide, in-laid with figures of filver. The Europeans get buttons, heads of canes, he. made, in which manner part of the filver comes again to Europe after the Chinefe have wrought it. Gold, is not fo much efteemed as with us, and is not fo fine. Great quantities of gold are brought from China into France and other countries. The joiners here make ufe of a lefs number of tools than ours do, but they are not fo fkilful as ours. For want of a bench, they fit down on the ground, put the board againft the belly, arid hold it only with the feet. Their hatchets", or tu-pao, are fmall, and fomewhat excavated c it i N A* 1751. 227 excavated on the inner fides, btit like our hatchets on the outward fide, and in the reft of their fhape. They do not make rife of hammers, but content themfelves with thefe hatchets. Their pincers ate not at all like ours, for they confift of an iron a foot long* fcarce as thick as a finger, and an inch broad 3 how* ever one end of it is fomewhat broader and thinner, in which are two or three holes ; on the other end it has a quadrangular foot, which is an inch fquare, and fharp on the corners j on it a loofe quadrangular ring is hiing, juft fitting to the foot, fo that the extraction of a nail is eafily effected. [See tab. xri. f. q.] Their whet-ftones are of a fine fand-ftone, and were much admired by our carpenters. Their faws are like ours, but lefs ; the whole frame is wooden. The handlcof their piercers, and the piercers themfelves, are like thofe which we employ to pierce iron, arid other hard bodies. They work in many forts of wood, both hard and foft, which are no further known to us, than. that the bureaux, draught, and chefs* boards, &c. which we bring to Europe, are made of them. The black ebony, which is ghome, is not plentiful here,, becaufe- it is, brought hither from other, places in the Eaft Indies, particularly the French Ifle of Maurice. ~ C^2 • Rose 228 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Rose wood is heavy, red, has a fine fmell, has black and light veins, and is very dear. A certain fpecies of light-brown wood is much efteemed here, and the Europeans have chefts made of it. All tea-boxes are made of a foft fort of wood, which cracks in the fire like firr ; and, as it is ufed to contain tea, the Chi nefe call it Tia-mock, or the Tea-tree. The light-brown wood, of which Europeans get chefts made for their cloaths, is fold pretty dear. I bought a cheft of five feet long, two feet broad, varnifhed over, and plated with brafs, to lay my cloath?in, for ioo dollars of copper. Chefs-boards of rofe-wood, inlaid with ivory and black ebony, were to be fold here. Shaupann is the Chinefe name of that fort of wood of which they make coffins, which are almoft every where of an equal breadth, and therefore are more like our bee-hives * than our coffins : the fides and the lids of them are of planks of the thicknefs of fome y In Sweden, and in the northern countries, a bee-hive confifts of a piece of fir- wood of about five or fix feet length, excavated on one fide like a canoe ; and then a board is clapped before this long hollow, with a fmall hole in it, for the bees to go in and out. F. inches : C H IN A. 1751. 229 inches : the bottom and the fides are likewife of planks. On the ends, which ftand out a little, the boards are cut obliquely, and very fharp on the outward edge. The coffins are made fo clofe, that no fmell can come through. The Japanners have ready-made bureaux, tea-boards, boxes, &c. befides the work that is befpoken. Thefe men, as well as thofe who work in mother of pearl, and the painters of porcelane, have little boys who are very diligent and active. That kind of varnifhed work which comes from Japan is reckoned the moft valuable. Kilong, or the blackifh-brown thick var- nifh, which is fpread with a broad ftiff brufh upon boxes, and other fuch like things, is very hurtful to the eyes. Duhalde fays, that this varnifh is made of rofin which exfudes out of trees growing in Setchuen and Kiangfi ; the deareft varnifh is faid to come from the neigh bourhood of Kantcheou, which is one of the moft fouthern cities of Kiang-ft. The rofin is gathered as foon as the trees are feven years old. They gather it in the fummer nights ; and to that purpofe they make incifions in the tree, of which the loweft is feven inches frorii Q;3 the 230 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. the ground, and the reft at the diftance of feven inches from each other, along the whole ftem. Under the incifions they put oyfter ihells, out of which' they take the varnifh the next morning. See Du Flalde's Defcript. p. 303, Any thing covered with this 'varnifh muft by all means be dried under cover, and not in the open air. The dyers make ufe of brazil or fernambuco to dye purple, which is moft in fafliion here. Their other dying materials I never faw; though I have often been in their dying ma* nufactories. I am of opinion that we can learn very little from the Chinefe dyers, fince there is fcarce any comparifon between the colours pf their fluffs and thofe of ours. Those people who work in mother of pearl, have a quantity of counters, boxes, tea-fpoons, &c. to fell. Here are barbers in plenty. Their razors are fmall, and fomewhat bent ; they are well fkilled in their work. The hair is preferved, and employed to manure the ground. Bulbing C H IN A. 1751. 231 Rubbing is ufual among the Chinefe, to put the blood in motion, inftead of bleeding. The people who do this bufinefs rub and beat the body all over with their clenched fifts, and work the arms and other limbs fo that their crackling may be heard at a confiderable dif tance. Some young fellows follow this trade 1 they carry a chain with feveral inftrum'ents on their ihoulders ; among thefe inftruments are tongs, with which they make a noife like that of a Jew's trumpet, and give notice of their being at hand. They cut the nails with an iron which has the look of a narrow plane; as alfo the hair within the noftriis, and on the eye-brows, for fuch a trifle, that even the loweft rank of people are enabled to make ufe of them. Porcellane comes hither from other places- fome is painted, and fome not. That which is painted here according to particular direc tions, or with names, or coats of arms, is very dear. The porcellane from Nanking is reckon ed the beft, next to that from Japan : though a certain author fays,_ that the beft porcelane comes from the village of Sinktefimo. See L'Ambaffade des Prov. unies, p. u8. The 0^4 ftone 2g2 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. ftone porcellane is the heavieft, and its price the greateft. Duhalde fays, that this porcellane is only made in the province of Kiangfi, in the city of King-te-ching, which is faid to be a league in length, and to contain a million of inhabitants. Porcellane is a compofition of two kinds of clay, one of which is called Pc- tun-tfe, and the other Kaolin ; the latter con* tains fhining particles, and keeps the whole to* gether. They have lately found out a fort of ftone, or lime, which they call Ho-a-khe, and ufe inftead of Ka-o-lm. [Their phyficians give fix parts of this ftone with one part of powder of liquorice wood, to cool the blood3. The porcellane is glazed with Chekao, a fpecies of ftone like alium, or with Ho-a-khe. The Che kao is firft burnt in an oven ; to make the blue colour, they take Lapis lazuli; and to the pur* pie they add a kind of ftones which they call Tfin. Duhalde feems to mean by it Cobalt, with which our porcellane is painted. See Du halde' s Defcription oi China, Tom. ii. p. 310, 3I2> 3H» 3M- Umbrellos are made in great quantities, of black waxed paper and bamboo-wood, and fold at- two dollars in copper apiece. Books CHINA. 1751. Books are only ftitched in white, and fome times in gold paper. The leaves are thin and always double. The fize is large octavo. No books of any other language than the Chinefe are to be met with in the country : and in the fuburbs of Canton are fcarcely any others than almanacks : the paper is made of the inner bark of bamboo tree. See Le Comte's Defcript. of China, p. i8<5. May not the bark of the juniper fhrub, and of other trees, be of the fame ufe ? The mirrour-makers have fome lit tle pitiful looking-glaffes. I was told of a glafs-houfo in Canton, but never had an op portunity of going to fee it. It is faid, the im portation of glafs from Europe is forbidden. However, the Europeans often bring glafs with them, and get rofes or other flowers painted on them, as the Chinefe are pretty fkilful that way. The fhoe-makers have learned to make Eu ropean fhoes and flippers, and fell four pair for a piece of eight, or ten dollars in copper: but they are indeed not Tvorth more ; for they are fewed with cotton thread, and therefore, as foon as they are ufed in the wet, the feams part, and the foles and heels get loofe. They are 234 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. are made of hogs leather, and often rough on bpth fides ; the hair is burnt off with a red- hot iron. Taylors offer, their fervice as foon as any Europeans arrive, as almoft every one wants waiftcoats of fatin, paduafoy, or taffety ; for which the black colour is commonly chofen. All Europeans go here, as well as aboard, only In their waiftcoats, with a white cotton cap, and a hat over it, carrying a flick in their hands. Coats are only made ufe of when one European vifits another. The taylors common ly find the fluffs, and are paid for all together afterwards:, awaiftcoat and a pair of breeches of fatin came to five tel, or feven-ty dollars in copper. The Chinefe taylors fciffars are fmall, but exactly like ours in every other refpect, Their needles have round eyes, iooof them coft a mes. Pins are not made here. Inftead of the fmoothing iron, they have a little pan, without feet of brafs or copper, into which they put fome burning charcoal, and rub the feams, or all that muft be fmoothed with it. Their filk buttons and button-holes are ftrong and well made. Thefe -aylors are often contented wjth worfe filver than the Spanifh. The ell which the taylors aaake ufe of is fometimes longer, CHINA 1751. 235 longer, and that ufed in fhops ihorter, than it ought to be. The hatters twift all their hats, both for men and women, of bamboo. The Chinefe never make ufe of other hats. They at firft make their hats like a round mat, and beat them afterwards to the right fize. Hats for women are higher than mens hats. The diftillers oi famfu, or the people who make the Chinefe brandy called famfu, live likewife in the fuburbs. This drink fmells like the worft fort of common brandy, and does not tafte much better. It is made of rice, and is by no means, as fome imagine, the fame as arrack, which-the Chinefe and we buy of the Dutch ; becaufe the cocoa-nuts of which arrack is made do not grow here, but only near the Line, in Java and other places. Tus Chinefe make the famfu warm, and drink a tea-cup full at their meals. They do not ufe ftrong liquors to excefs, unlefs fome of them learn to drink from the Europeans. Dur-, ing my ftay in China, I never faw a drunken Chinefe among fuch a number of people. The^ heathens* who have no law naturally, do what the 236 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. the law requires ; but the chriftians are not afhamed to difhonour God by fome vice or other amidft the heathens. The houfes of the ftone-mafons take up a whole lane, and perhaps more. They hew tomb-ftones and mill-ftones, the former of red and the latter of grey fand-ftone. ¦ The millers live in great numbers in a feparate part of the town, and make the rice- groats. They firft grind off the hulks by a wooden mill ; they then ftamp the grains in a ftone mortar with a peftle, which is faftened with an iron pin to a wooden lever ; one arm of which is weighed down, and then the peftle by its own weight falls upon the rice in the ftone mortar : this motion is continued till the work is finifb- ed. Watch-makers are very much wanted here. The Chinefe buy large and little watches of the Englifi. In their ihops they have fometimes Englifi watches to fell, and fome times at moderate prices, but moftly of the worft kind. Perriwigs, gloves, bread, and coffee, are things which the Chinefe can do without ; and far CHINA. 1751. 237 for this reafon we find no places where they are made. They do not cut their tobacco, but fmoak the leaves fuch as they naturally are. Taking fnuff and chewing of tobacco are not yet in fafhion among them. The filk manufactures are as far off as the apartments of the ladies, whofe bufinefs it is to fpin and to weave. Their looms are level with the floor, and fo fituated that they may fit on them and put their feet into that part on which the loom ftands. I once came into fuch a place towards the ftreet, where a mat of bamboo was hung up inftead of a door. This occafioned an outcry from the perfon who ftood at the door; the dog received me as an enemy, and the female weavers left their work in a great hurry. The Europeans order their filks as foon as they arrive, and they get them ready a little before they fet off again. Old fluffs are feldom bought, becaufe they are good for nothing when they return from fuch a long fea voyage. The filks are rolled or calendered between two fmooth ftones, whofe thicknefs is the breadth of the filks : the lower of thefe ftones is faft in the floor, and is like the concave fide of half a cylinder ; the up per one fits into the lower, in the form of a half- 238 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. half-moon. The fluff is rolled ripon a cylin der of yellow brafs, and put between the two ftones ; then a fellow gets upon the upper' ftone, fo that he has one foot on each fide; and holding himfelf by a fixed piece of wood, thus with his treading he calenders better than four perfons in our country are able to do it upon our inconvenient and dear wooden rolls. [See tab. xii. f. 4.3 Cotton is plucked afunder and made clean with an inftrument which would be worth procuring : and though I ordered one, the Chinefe was not fo good as hie word ; and the fame happened to me in many other things. In the markets, where the people every day run about like ants, they fell fruit, garden herbs, fifh, bacon, &c. ' A pagoda, or idol-temple, is near one of thefe markets. In this they offer incenfe to their idols, which the Europeans call yos, from the Portuguefe dios, and which are reprefented by one or more gilt pictures of feveral fizes,^ according as their faint looked when he was alive. The honours they beftow upon him are in confequence of his writings, or of any £ other CHINA. 1751. 239 other fervices he has done to the public. Thefe pictures, together with fome foliage on the fides, are in the place of an altar table. Both upon the altar, and upon particular tables, are flower-pots, incenfe, and all forts of meat and drink, fuch as fruit and the like ; in par ticular large oranges x, a fpecies of fruit like fweet oranges, but much larger, and having a fpungy peel of the thicknefs of one's finger. This fruit has an agreeable tafte, is fomewhat fourer than a fweet orange, and fweeter than . lemons. They offer the fame facrifices in pri vate houfes ; for every body has his own idol. A bell without a clapper hangs on one fide, and a drum on the other fide, before the altar. In other places at the entrance there are many areas and terraffes, but on both fides ftand very tall figures of men. The pagodas have never any fteeple. The -roofs are ornamented with large dragons, lying length-ways along the walls. Rich people build pagodas fometimes, that their relations may be every day employ ed in burning incenfe, facrificing, and other ceremonies, in commemoration of their- faint. The priefts are called Vau-fiong by the Chinefe", z Thefe are ihaddocks, arid 24® OSBECK'S VOYAGE. and Bonzes by the Europeans 3. They go with their heads bare and fhaved, drefs in fteel-co- loured filk coats with wide fleeves, which look like furplices, and wear rofaries about their necks. When they officiated on the feftival of the lanthorns, they had red coats and high caps. Perhaps this was an order different from the former. Hundreds of bonzes fometimes perform their functions in one temple. The houfes of thefe priefts furround the pagodas, inftead of a church-yard wall. They live upon the revenues from the legacies of their patrons, which afford likewife fubfiftance to the ileward. Rice, which is their principal food, is boiled in a pot, which is fixed near the pagoda. They eat all together in a hall. Trade is carried on here by the inhabitants and by. the Armenians, and other Afiatic na tions, befides the Europeans. A quantity of foreign commodities, and of their own country, is annually exported from Canton, efpecially porcellane, commonly called China ware, which is ufed many ways. They bring it hither from the inner parts of * The priefts in Japan are likewife called bonzes. the CHINA. 1751* 241 tlie country, fome painted, and fome not. The painted china from Nanking is much efteemed. The Japan china is reckoned beft. The ftone porcellane is heavier, harder, and dearer than the common china. Du Halde fays* that the fineft comes from the little town of Kin-te-chihg. Raw filk, fuch as is clean and dry, does not rub off its colour ; if well packed up in chefts, . is the beft. Si~lk fluffs, are of all forts, of one colour* as well as of many, fuch as damafks, fatins, paduafoy, taffeties, pelings, velvets, &x. Cottons, white, a piece commonly con tains ninety-two koabi, or thirty-feven and a half Swedifi ells, and are not in width above half fuch an ell. A piece cofts two pefos duros, or about twenty dollars of copper, though fome coft more, when the bottomry is reckoned in : a piece of their common linen, which is much finer, clofer, ftronger, and not bleached, contains 1 1 3 koabi, or feventy-one three quarters Swedifi ells, and cofts four pia- ftres and an half. Quilts, cotton-tick at four or Vo l * I. E or 24^ OSBECK'S VOYAGE. or five mefs ; ftockings, handkerchiefs,' cVc.-- are plentiful here. But all thefe cottons are to be got at Mad ras, and other Indian trading towns, much ftronger, and with more lafting colours. Fine chintz, Madras linen, Madras hand kerchiefs, &c. ate likewife to be had at Can ton ; the Englifi fhips bring them to that place ; but they are very dear, fince they are fecond or third hand goods. Linen, made of other raw materials, fuch* as Hannoes, Kantyoa, Ohincao, is- to be got here at four kandarin, four kafs,. an ell. Umbrellas are here made in great quan tities, of horfe bones, ivory, mother of pearl, tortoife fhells, and bamboo. The painting of this country, reprefenting men and their employments, trees, plants* flowers, fruit, birds, and the like, by their lively colours compenfate for the want of art b. b Some years ago the Chinefe were very defective in their drawings : but pf late, fince they have had opportu- Flowers China. 1751. 243 Flowers of paper, and filk fluffs. Of the innumerable quantity of painted flowers which are to be had here, none are like nature ; and either the leaves or the petals are mifreprefent- ed. As for the animals, they feemed to me like horfes with birds feet, and men with claws. Japanned goods are bureaux, fhrines, band-boxes, powder-boxes, and ' other boxes, tea-boards, tables, fnuff-boxes, &c. GoLD-is exported in great quantity to Francet and other European places. Copper in bars. Japan copper is much em* ployed to in-lay boxes of mother of pearl, and of other kinds. Tortoife fhell boxes are plated on the infide with fuch copper, gilt. Tintenaque, or tutanego. See Walk* rius's Mineralogy, p. 464. fpec. 32. is to be got in long pieces, each of five or fix pekuls, at the rate of three or four tel. It comes in nities of feeing the performances of European artifts, they are much improved, and particularly in perfpe&ive, witk which they were before perfectly unacquainted. R 2 great 244 OSBECK'S VOYAGE, great quantities from gueda and Jahor, on tlie Malacca coaft,. with the Englifi country fhips \- It is univerfally believed,- that this metal when^ mixed with lead, is ufed to plate the tea- chefts. Tin comes in fmall pieces from Pegu and Jahor. Lead is ufed for tea-cannifters,- and to line tea-chefts. Alum. The katty of the fine and clear' fort- is fold at two kandarin. Lapis lazuli comes from the; north of China* and from Tibet. Borax, we ufed to buy annually of the Dutch, after it had been refined, as a thing: abfolutely neceffary for our goldfmiths. But .probably we have already begun to refine it at home, which will enable us to be fatisfied with' crude borax for the future ; which we can get from Suratte in our fhips, with confiderable gain d. c Country fhips are European fhips, going from India,' only to China, and" to other Jlfiatic places. d The Venetians were the firft that refined Borax, or- lineal as it is called before it is refined : fince whom the Quick- C H I N A. 17-51. 245 Quick-silver is tried by fqueezing it -through fhamoy, or any thin leather : and if the quick-filver is good it will leave no thing at all behind. Another way of trying it is, to evaporate fome in a fpoon over the fire : if it -leaves a fpot behind, it is looked upon as impure and adulterated. Cinnabar is looked upon as not pure when it is in cakes, or ground. The beft muft be clean, of a fhivery compact texture, of a firm ing crimfon colour, very heavy, and in large ¦lumps, Of two or three inches thicknefs. It generally bears the fame price as quick-filver. Indian ink. The beft comes from Nan- iing. Musk comes from Tonkin in bladders. The true mufk burns with a flame when fet on fire, which it does not when it is adulterated with goat's blood. Du Halde relates, that a Chinefe who has mufk about him may fleep in the fields without any fear of fnakes, Dutch, and of late the Englifi have obtained the method, •which is ftill ,a fecret in few hands. R 2 -Sugar H6 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Sugar is to be got at a reafonable pri here. Powder-fugar is prepared in the Frem ifland. Sugar-candy comes from Cochh China, and other places. The whiteft an cleareft fugar-candy comes from Chinkew i loaves : a pekul of it was fold at fix tel, an three mefs. Loaf-fugar is not made in Chim Tea e. The Europeans learned to drink th infufion in the fifteenth century, and fince th; time have vied with each other in giving th Chinefe the moft money for this and othe goods which are become faftiionable : grows both in China and in Japan, of whic fee Kampfer's Amoenitates Exot. p. 505.^ feqq. where both the gathering and dryin of the leaves are defcribed. It likewife grow in Tonkin ; but the beft tea, according to D Halde, comes from Fokien, We have as man' names for tea as there are places where i grows; and different ways of preparing it f though all the Chinefe tea is faid to be of on * Tea in the Chinefe language is called Tia, in Fokie it is called 7>, and as the Europeans landed firft in that pro vince, that dialed has been preferved. f It has been univerfally believed that all teas came froii the faine fhrub, and are only diftinguifhed by the differen "^./. -2W_y. if iy £&*£ Tea, \ )U Zzn&csteijvi' , , — ^. seven, ia/to/ htzus UTunes-Catty _ <; h>. eu?7u- Catty Hi h % \ Tris.ffn&Maee' \Iseens ^ ~~_7U one' '0f»> e.trtraXandaria h Ct/tre&fa&y / />— 'jot gjj. y d,./bur Oua, *"«<*>£ «>«<•«" ^- ;\ pre i.*z£fy \A kaan. € H I N A. 1 75 1. 247 ihrub. Tea is generally diftinguiflied into 'brown and green, according .as it tinges the water. Brown tea is Honam Te, or Kuli-Tev which grows in fome places about Canton, and is drunk by the Chinefe, but not by the Euro peans : its tafte being the leaft agreeable of any. [See tab. xiii. fig. 2.3 The dried leaves are either yellow or brownifh. The tea flirubs, which are fold in flower-pots here, fcarce grow to the height of an .ell. The flower confifts of fix white petals, of which tlie three ioweft are -the fmalleft. An-kay is a coarfe fort of tea, from a place of this name. [Tab. xiiL f. 3.] age, .gathering, and preparation. But Doctor 'Hill has late ly difcovered that the brown tea comes from the tea fhrub with fix petals., or flower leaves, which K&mpfer has de fcribed, and reprefented : but that the green tea is taken from. the tea fhrub with nine leaved flowers. The former in ijn- aixus's Spec. Plantarum, Ed. ii. p. 734. is Thea bohea, and me latter Thea viridis. Linnaus diftinguifhes if, befides the flowers, by the longer and narrower leaves. Dr. Schre- ier. It is notwithftanding, very doubtful whether the ¦plant of the green tea is really different from rthat of the ijoohea tea. JP. 248 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Te-bohe, which we ufually call Bohca-tea, is called Moji by theChinefe. This fort is brought to Sweden in greater quantities than any of the others. The beft fort fmells agreeably, and in a fliort time gives a brown colour to the water, and confifts of leaves of one colour ; if any black ones are among them, it is a bad fort. [Tab. xiii. f. 3.3 Tao-kyonn is the name of the beft fort of bohea tea, f_Tab. xiii. f. 4.J Kongo, or as the Chinefe call it Kong-fo, has an agreeable fcent: its leaves are finer than thofe of Te-bohe ; though it is fcarce dif- tinguifhable from the beft Bohea, except in price ; for Congo is fomewhat dearer. [Tab, xiii. f. 5. J Sutchong, or Sootchuen, which the Chinefe call Saatyang, or Su-tyann, is the deareft of all brown teas, and is moft ufual among our people of quality ; as green tea is among the Englifh. This tea gives a fine yellow green colour to the water, and has an agreeable tafte 5 unlefs you put too much into the pot, which CHINA. 1751. 249 which fpoils both tafte and colour. [Tab. xiii. f. c5.] P AD?.?, futchong is the beft tea that can be drunk : for even the beft Ruffia tea, which comes by land by carravans to Ruffia, is not better in tafte or fcent. The leaves of this tea are large, yellowifli, not rolled up,, but expanded ; and packed up in papers of half a pound each, like tobacco. If it is not taken great care of at fea, it is much altered for the worfe. Lin-kisam is a fort of tea which hath nar-, row rough leaves, and foot-ftalks. It is fel dom ufed by itfelf, but mixed with other forts. The Chinefe ean turn Congo into Pecko, if to the firft they add fome Lin-kifam. This may be compared with with what Kampfer men tions about the word Zafanqua £. [Tab. xiii. f. 7.] £ Aman. p. 853. " Zafanqua is a lefs fort of Tfubadi, " has a fimple flower, with five petals, many filaments, " and a pear-like fruit, with three grains, of the fize of a '' Piflacbio Kernel; the grains are white and globofe ; the , " leaves are prepared and mixed with tea, to give it a fine " fmell.'* Bach-ho 2io OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Back-ho, or Pack-ho, is that which we call Fecko, which has leaves with dots. It is a mild tea, has a good tafte, and is fakl to be the leaft heating of any. [Tab, xiii. f. 8.J Of Green Teas, there are Hyson, called Hy-tiann, or Hi-kiong by the Chinefe. [Tab. xiii. f. $>.] Singlo, or Sanglo, is fo called from the place whence it comes. The Chinefe .likewife call it Sing-tia. [Tab. xiii. f. 11. J Bing, or imperial tea. Tio fe is rolled up like peafe h* [Tab. xiii, f. 10.] Hyson-utchin, is diftinguifhable from the Hyfonfkin by its narrow and ihort leaves. Gp-be' hath long narrow leaves, The Chinefe likewife make tea .cakes, which they fell very dear. h This fort is rolled up between the hands in a rounder rfnapelhan the others. A (mailer .kind is called Gunpowder tea. CHINA. 1751. 251 It is almoft incredible what quantities of tea are annually exported into Europe and other parts ; and what innumerable hands are em ployed in fo unneceffary an article. The coun tryman muft with great care plant and nurfe the tea fhrubs ; pluck every leaf in due time ; feparate the new leaves from the old, and dry them with extreme accuracy. The green tea is faid to differ from the others only by con- fifting of young leaves, or by means of repeat ed dryings. But fince fome fort of brown tea likewife confifts of tender young leaves, the afore-mentioned reafon is not probable. I imagine the difference arifes from the plates on which (according to their own accounts) the tea is dried. It is not unlikely that green tea is dried on copper plates, and the brown on iron plates : which is the more likely, fince green tea occafions purging, which feems to be the effect of verdigreafe : but brown tea hath the contrary effect. At laft when the merchant has got the bafkets of tea, at a low rate, from the country people, he muft often take care of it for years together ; and is always uncertain when or at what price he fliall fell it. When the Europeans have fixed upon a place where they will make their bargains, they empty the ¦bafkets 252 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. bafkets (but let it be noted I am now fpeaking - of Bohea tea, for the finer forts are fold in chefts); and if any bad tea is found in thefe bafkets, it is feparated from the reft. The good tea is then packed up in new che-fts, the weight of which is deducted; and thefe chefts are marked, and lined with lead in the infide. A Chinefe gets into thefe chefts, and treads down the tea as it is emptied out of the bafkets : this is very hard labour ; and throws the tread- ¦er, who is almoft naked, into a profufe per- fpiration * - Though great care is taken to pre vent any thing from coming into the tea, yet it is hardly to be avoided : and fometimes their feet are wounded and bleed. But the tea has already paffed through fo many dirty hands, that thofe who ufe that drug have no reafon to be difgufted with this laft mark of indelicacy in the package k. As foon as fome 1 This difguiling circumftance remarkably attends the bagging or treading of hops into their bags. Nor are the circumftances regarding the treading the wine-prefs, or of fugar orraifins into hogfheads or barrels, very delicate: yet fuch kind of package is unavoidable. k The veins on the feet of fome Chinefe are very ftrong, and run in extraordinary directions. The bamboo flicks, upsn which they carry tea chefts and other heavy things, make deep impreifions on their flioulders. Of CHINA. 175 1. 253 of the chefts are packed by a number of Ku- leers, or Chinefe fervants, they are palled over with paper, and carried out of the warehoufe to the factories, where they are weighed by the Chinefe cuftom-houfe officers, in the pre- fence of the interpreter, and marked red with a ftiff brufh, or with a wooden ftamp. Some poor people are fatisfied with the leaves of RhamnusThea, which they put into their clayey water inftead of tea, to make it more palat able. In the account of the Dutch embaffy to China, it is related that the Chinefe make ufe of a fpecies of mofs inftead of tea. Soya, or fhe Tyong-yag of the Chinefe, (Do- •lichos Soja Linn.) the Japan Soya, is better and dearer than the Chinefe. For its prepara tion fee Kamph. Amoen. p. 830. and likewife Soja Dolichos, Flor. Zeylan. 354. It was fold -the katty at three kanderins. Camphire is fold here unrefined at a good price. If it is to go far, it muft be well packed up in a tintenaque. When camphire is pack ed near tea, it fpoils its fmell and tafte., A Chinefe told me, that the camphire tree was to be found near Canton, {Laurus Camphora Linn.) and that it was called Tyong-fio ; he alfo began Vol. I. R 7 to 254 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. to tell me in what manner the camphire or Tyong-ndab of the Chinefe was extracted from, the wood by boiling ; but as foon as he under- flood that this tree was unknown in my coun* try, I waited in vain for further informations I defired him to ihew me a branch of it ; but he artfwered that the leaves were already fallen off, and that it was not to be diftinguiflied : but what he endeavoured to hide from me may be read in Kampher's Amcfcri. p. 770. Rice (Oryza Sativa) is the daily bread of the Chinefe, and grows in fuch plenty here, that both Europeans and other nations provide themfelves and their countrymen with it at a very low rate* If there is a famine in the country, the people run by thoufands to Can- ton, where they can get their livelihood bet ter, and may live ripon rice groats for two ftivers (id.) a day. For on the fea ihore no other grain is in ufe. Rhubarb, in the Chinefe language Tay- hoang, is fold the katty at two mefs, and fome times lefs. If we are to believe the Chinefe, no rhubarb grows about Canton. But I faw in one part of the town quite frefh roots dry ing in the fun ; which therefore could not come CHINA. 1 75 1. 255 come a great way off. Du Halde tells us, that the beft rhubarb grows in Setchuen. The marks of its goodnefs are, that it is dry, old, and as it were marked with oriental characters, , The Chinefe doctors never ufe rhubarb by it felf 1, but prefcribe it always frefh, and mixed with other medicines. They cut the root into flices and put it into a cullender over a boiling kettle, that it may imbibe the fteam of the boiling water. Thefe flices are then expofed to the fun for fix hours together: this is nine times repeated. The Portuguefe at Macao boil it in water, and drink.it as a fto- machic m. China root, (Smilax China) by the Chinefe Long-fan-tao, ought to be heavy, and not pierced by Worms : it is very cheap here. In our fhip we only threw it in between the chefts of tea, and thus brought them to our. apothe caries fliops. It grew near the river, on dry hills, where the wind can blow freely, 1 The Jefuit Martini died of half an ounce of rhubarb. See Bayer's Muf. the Preface, p. 23. a Bayer's Muf. the Preface, p. 24, Gal gant, 256 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Galgant, Galangal, or Radix Galang* (Ma- ranta Galanga) is likewife an agreeable root. It ought to be red, and not eaten by worms. It is ufed, like China-root, to fill up the empty fpaces in the fhips, between the tea chefts. Indigo is fold here: but the beft comes from Blana near Agra in the Eaft Indies. t Mother of pearl is plentiful here. The Chinefe fell their goods even in Java, India, Japan, in the Philippines, and other Afiatic ifles. They export -not only their own goods, but alfo thofe which they have got from the Europeans, to fupply their wants and thofe of others. Goods from Europe' are filyer, lead, thin cloaths, fcarlet cloth, blue, black, dark', and violet woollen fluffs ; flints, piftols, guns, blades of fwords, watches, wines, raifins, bot tles, and other glafs, ginfeng n, &c. » Ginfeng is a Chinefe plant, but it grows likewife in North America, on plains in fhady places, and was fre-. The CHINA. 1751. 257 The Chinefe get many commodities from ieveral parts of Afia j and in particular, Parrots,Ivory, - Tortoife Jhelts, Afa-fcetida. Pinang, or Areca Catechu Linn, is a fruit Which looks like a nutmeg in the infide. Our Eaft Indiamen begin to bring areck from Su- y ratte to Canton. A quarter of one of thefe nuts is wrapt up in a betel-leaf, and covered with lime of oyfter-fhells. In India it Is looked upon as a mark of ill-breeding not to eat Pi nang before you fpeak to a man of quality; and you will think yourfelf neglected if he does not likewife treat you with the fame. The Chinefe keep the ihells of the areck" nuts, and make a decoction of them againft dyfenteries, &c. It is likewife reported that •quently gathered for the Chinefe trade in the neighbourhood of Quebec. See Koto's Journey through Ndrth America, J749, the 7th Aug. Mr. Qfbeck mentions it under the Chinefe merchandizes. F. Vol. I. $ they 458 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. they communicate to each other by means of Pinang iafcivious medicines, their antidotes, and the leaves of Oheat goena, together with other poifons. Old Pinang-nuts, made round and polifhed, put during one night into water in which fome fnake-tree wood has been foak- ed before, are fometimes given for Piedra del Fuer co °,. as Rumph. fays. Birds nefts p are a fcarce and dear difli : they look like little difhes, or like half the rind of a lemon ; the beft are white and clear, almoft like ifinglafs. They grow tough like a ° Piedra delputrco is a concretion found in the cyfih fellea, or gall-bladder of the Malacca Porcupine, which, when foak- ed in water for fome hours, impregnates it with a confider- able bitternefs ; although the Piedra del puerco lofes fcarce ly a grain of its weight. This infufion is ufed in India as a cordial in malignant putrid fevers, and in the jaundice. The high price of thefe Piedras del puerco, which fome times amounts to fifty pounds fterling apiece, has caufed that they are frequently counterfeited and adulterated. See Kampfer's Amcen. Exot. p. 395; F. p Nidus a torn. ii. p. 20:. ' This is the Malaic Name ; in Java it is called Bulunii 8nd is made, of the pith of the Cycas tircinn'alislxna. S 2 Spices 5 ¦ z6o OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Spices; videlicet, Pepper (Piper nigrum) ; Long Pepper, {Piper longum).; Cubebes (Cubeba - Linn. Mat. Med. 526) Cloves. {Caryophylus. aromaticus), Cardamum (Amomum cardamomum), come from Cochin-China, Cambogia, and Siam. Sticklack from Pegu: The gum which quite covers the flicks is clear and high colour ed. The lack fromFizapatnam is. not fo good. Gumm Benjamin, or Benzoin, comes from Sindi, and the Spice Iflands, in large chefts of 50 or 60 pounds weight, packed up in mats- The beft looks like white marble. There is. likewife a coarfe kind,,- which is black and foft : it is packed in chefts, Cambogia, Gamboge, or Gum-gittta, of a- high yellow gold colour, from Cochin-China* Cambogia, &cc. in bundles. Santal (Santalum album) is fweet-fcented* and comes from Suratte, where oar Swedifi fhip the Gothic Lion (the firft that ever came to that place from Sweden) bought, in 1750, fome of this wood for feven tell, and fold a great deal of it at Canton 1 the pekul at 1 3; telL CHINA. 1751, 261 tell. The Chinefe make ufe of this wood in ftead of incenfe. They take the faw-duft of it, and glew it to a flick, light it, and put it before their idols, or in any place where they would have an agreeable fcentu Kobt, or the Chinefe ell, is about fifteen Swedifh inches long. It is divided into ten pann, and each of them into ten kanderin. The taylors ells are commonly longer, and their length is fixteen inches two-thirds. Thefe ells are commonly made of bamboo. Every thing either received or given out is weighed. However, Spanifh money has a fixed price; and a piaftre is valued at feven mes, and four kanderins. At St. Helena it is taken for five fhillings. The Chinefe puts his ftamp upon the piaftre, the more eafily to avoid tak ing falfe ones, which are fometimes made of tin or copper, plated over with filver. For want of fmall coin, a Chinefe has, befides the weight, a pair of fciffars about him, with which he cuts the filver money in pieces, and either gives or receives fuch pieces on buying of goods. Thefe fciffars, which are very thick, they call Kiapp-chin. When a Chinefe wants to cut a piece of filver, he puts it between the S 3 Jaffa^ 2(52 OSBECK'S VOYAGE, fciffars, and knocks them againft a ftone tilj the pieces drop off. ' Kas, whicb the Chinefe call Lai, is the only current coin which is ftruck in China, and is equal both in fize and value to our one-fixth pere filver cpin, This coin is made of yellow brafs, arid round ; hath a quadrangular hole in the middle ; the edge is plain, but its fides are marked with Chinefe characters, Datchin is their larger weight, with which they weigh by pekul and katty. Lay-tang is a lefs weight, with which they weigh little things. A Pekul, or Idaam as the Chinefe call it, is iookatti, or 1391b. ixf^ half ounces, 44. * As, victual- weight; but is generally reckoned equal to 142 Swedifi grocers pounds, A katty, or Chinefe Kann, which is lib, 12 4.4. of half ounce, and 1.1. As, contains 16 tel. A tel S which the Chinefe call Lea, has ten mes, about 14 dollars of copper coin. s The fmallefl; Sivedifi weight. ' The Englifi write it tale, the Portuguese tael. Itconr fans icq French fous, or z| half ounces, and 12 As, Swe- A ME? CHIN A. 1751. 263 A mes u, by the Chinefe called Hane, con tains 10 kanderin. A kanderin, or as the Chinefe call it Fann, is io'kas. A kas, or kafi, is the fmalleft coin which. is ufed in every part of this country, and its value is about i ocre filver coin; though Du- Halde mentions feveral lefs, which perhaps may be ufed in particular places, and be neceffary only on particular occafions. The Chinefe count thus : Tatt™ Tdaam, a pekul. [Tab. xiii. fig. c] Tatt Kann, a katty or catti. [Tab. xiii. f. b.] Ngh.ee kan, 2 ditto. Samm kan, 3 ditto. [Tab. xiii. f. c .] dip visual weight. See Memoir of the Stved. Acad, of ^Sciences for 1750, p. no, the Stued. Edition. " The Englifi write mace, the Portugueze maz. *' Tatt, or Tett, is one. S 4 Tfoehut 2f54 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. Tfoekan, or fa %a-nx 4, (Tfin, Tfi, Tfoe, or Tfey, is 4.) [Tab. xiii. f. d.] On kan, 5. This is lifped through the teeth, and leaves one to guefs whether it muft be un, or n, or oen. [Tab. xiii. f. e.~\ Lock kan, 6. [Tab. xiii. f./".] Satt-kan, 7, [Tab, xiii. f. g."\ Patt-kan, 8, [Tab. xiii. f. h.~\ Kau-kan, 9. [Tab. xiii. f. /.] Siapp-kan, 10. [Tab. xiii. f. £,] Si^ Tatt -kan, 1 1 . Siapp-ngee, 12. Ngee-fiapp, 20. Ngee-ftapp-yett, 21. Sam-fiapp, 30. Tfi-fiapp, 40. Gn-fiapp, 50. Lackfiapp, 60. Ifat-fiapp, 70, Pa//- CHINA. 1751. 265 Ratt-fiapp, 80, Kaufiapp, 90. fett-pa, Te-pa, or Ghee-pao, 100, Te-pa-yett, 101, Te-pa-ngee, 102, Tatt-tfin, 1000. Sam-tfin, 100,000. Siapp-pack-tfin, 1,000,000. Tatt-leo, a tel. [Tab. xiii. f. /.] Tatt-fane, or Swn^, a mefs. [Tab. xiii. f. ;».] Tatt-fann, a kanderin. [Tab. xiii. f. «.] Ngee-fuen, or fann, 2 kanderins. [Tab. xiii. f.o.] Tatt-lai, a kas, [Tab. xiii. f. p.~] Syan-pann, or the Chinefe accompting- board, is oblong, divided into two equal parts, and has little beads, which are moved back wards or forwards on wires, of which there are fometimes more or lefs, fometimes 25 on each fide. One fide of each of thefe beads fignifies tte OSBECK'S VOYAGE. rignifies one, but on the other it ftands for five. If you count by thoufands, ioo, or 20, &c. the firft row on the right is one, the fecond 10, the third 100, the fourth 1000. If the Chinefe knew how to reckon with cyphers, they would do their bufinefs very quickly, fince all their weights, meafures, and money accompts, are decimals ; videlicet, when I have 464 kanderins, I immediately fee they' mark four tel, fix mefs, and four kandarins. The inhabitants of this country, whom we call Chinefe, are quite white, excepting thofe who are tanned by the fun. Moft of them look alike ; they have fliort nofes, fmall eyes, ihort black eye-brows, a broad face, great ears, and black hair, which the men always fhave off, having a tuft at the top of the head, which grows as long as it will, and is made up into a broad ftiff plait. In this man ner the Chinefe have worn their hair ever fince the Tartars began to reign over them. They formerly let the hair grow on the whole head, which we fee the Chinefe in Batavia do ftill. Old men, who have few hairs, make their plait more confpicuous with ribbands, left at firft light they ihould be looked upon as crimi nals, whofe hair is cut off, if we may believe thejp CHINA. 1751. 267 their own accounts. The men let their beards grow, and divide them into feveral locks. The Chinefe are fome of them greater and others- fmaller in fize than we are. In converfation they are civil : in their demeanor gentle ; in focial life diligent, having genius for trade in particular : but they are likewife talkative, in- quifitive, loving to take prefents ; are obfti- nate, proud, and fufpicious. They fit upon their feet, for want of chairs. When they meet one another, they lift up their hands ; but touch neither hat nor cap, and do not move their feet, but bow a little, faying, Hoaw, Hoaw,* which is a friendly falute, with which they wifh all , manner of good to each other. The lower fort of people kneel down before men of high rank, and fhew them their fubmiflion both by words and gefture, The drefs of the men generally is as follows; They wear two wide coats of filk or cotton, the lower of which is white, but the upper purple or black ; they are like our long night gowns, and have no lining, ftiffening, button- • holes, folds, and facings ; they are buttoned ' x Good, Good. A repetition of the pofitive makes their fuperlative, as in the Hebrew language. before 268 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. before with little round gilt buttons, which are at a* diftance from each other, and catch into little ftrings, faftened a little inward, and this makes the coats to be double upon their breafls. They do not quite cover their feet. The fleeves are fo wide and of fuch a length as to be fufficient to cover the hands. Their breeches are wide and white, and are laced about the body, and about the knees. The ftockings are thick, embroidered, and made like boots, of a dark-coloured filk-ftuff ; peo ple of quality have the edges and clocks of the ftockings embroidered with gold or filver ; fometimes they are faftened to the flioes, fome times not ; their fhoes are like flippers without heels, but without quarters, and a white fole as thick as ones finger ; they are as it were chopped off before : the upper leather is em broidered : every thing belonging to them is of hog's leather, andfewed with cotton yarn, The workmen who are frequently expofed to the fun, particularly peafants and filhermen, cover their heads with hats of bamboo, whofe brims are of different colours. They ufe caps ; fome of which look like an inverted funnel, with a button at the top. They are covered with a tuft of raw red filk, which is faftened $t the top, and hangs down loofely to the bottom CHINA. 1751. 269 bottom of the cap. None but men of high rank make ufe of thefe caps. Others wear caps of black filk, with brims of velvet : fometimes the whole cap is made of velvet, with or without tufts of red filk, in threads, which hang at the top ; and in the middle is a button of gold, precious ftone, amber, glafs- fluor, or even fomething lefs valuable, accord ing to the difference of rank and fortune of the wearer. No one is allowed to cloath him felf above his rank. Some men of high rank diftinguifh themfelves from the reft by the badges of fome orders, which they carry on their breads : others carry behind in their caps two fquirrels tails ; and others diftinguifh themfelves by the value of the button on their cap. But a Chinefe is never feen to wear a wig, cravat, fleeve buttons, gloves, garters, knee buckles, and buckles in the flioes ; and feldom walks with a flick. Inftead of thefe things, their tobacco-pipe, tobacco-bag, and purfe, hang down to the knees by long ftrings. In winter they frequently put on thirteen or fourteen garments one above another, or get them lined with furs. Inftead of muffs they carry a live quail (Tetrao coturnix) in their hands. The poorer fort of people are content with a little coat of cotton, with wide trowfers, and with 270 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. with caps of bamboo leaves ; they go bare* foot, and moft of them are half naked. It is a very common thing to fee fmall boats full of naked children, and of half-naked parents, who have no other habitations than thefe on the furface of the water, and live by thou- fands by fifhing, picking up old rags, dead hogs, or whatever elfe is thrown from the fhips. Labourers are obliged to pare their nails ', but people of quality let them grow as long as they will; keep them very clean and tranf parent, and at night put little cafes of bamboo on them. The drefs of the ladies is little knoWn.to me, fince ladies of fafhion always keep in their houfes. I faw, however, a head-drefs at the goldfmith's, which was twifted of a coarfe filver-wire, and looked like a little ba- iket ; in it Were faftened pieces of red cloth, to heighten the luftre. Their round filk fans are well known. They can fcarce walk, on account of their little feet. As this inability y Very long nails are a token of elegance, and fhew that the wearers are arrived at a thorough pitch of genteel JielplefTnefs. for CHINA. 1751. 271 for walking is a mark of gentility, people of rank prefs the feet of their daughters from their very infancy in iron fhoes. It is faid that this was a punifhment on the female fex, for attempting to betray their hufbands in an ir ruption of the Portuguefe; but they look up on this as an injurious report, which cannot be proved. Common women are every day feen, particularly in the boats, and they are dreffed like men, in a coat and trowfers ; but they do not fliave their heads ; they tie their long hair together in a knot at the top of their heads ; and fallen it with a great long filver bodkin. , The hair of the unmarried women is cut on the fides, and hangs round the head about an hand's breadth. To paint the face, is univerfally the fafhion. Tobacco is ufed , only for fmoaking ; but its ufe is very general with both fexes : and women are frequently feen in the boats at the helm, with their chil dren at their backs, and a tobacco pipe in their mouths. The mothers, who always educate their own children, tie them to their backs, that they may not be troublefome to them in working: and as the children often knock their nofes againft their mothers backs, it is probable that this is the caufe of their broad nofes, which are a general charatcriftic of this nation. 272 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. nation. The children are adorned with filvef rings about their hands and feet, and with medals hanging on their breafts. > Their pa rents tie a gourd, or a large fruit which the Chinefe call Po-o (cucurbita lagenaria) which is fhaped like a bottle, to their childrens backs, that they may not be drowned in cafe they ihould fall into the river. The bufinefs of the women in general is to take care of the children, the kitchen, weaving, and fpinning. The elder children muft help to carry the younger on their backs. The men help to wafh. The eye is every where ftruck with the po- puloufnefs of this healthy country, in which the people chufe rather to want, than to feek a plentiful fubfiftence elfewhere. They are •allowed but little more navigation than what they can carry on by their inland canals. Their foreign traide is chiefly to Batavia, and fome places adjacent. An Englifiman, whofe men Were run away during his ftay in China, could with difficulty get fo many Chinefe failors as were neceffary to navigate his fhip to the Eaft Indies ; though he affured them he would fend them back by the firft , opportunity. The ftreets are as full of people here, as if there - 4 was CHINA. 17.51. 273 was a fair every day, at leaft during the ftay of the Europeans in this country, which is from July to February. In China are faid to be 58 millions of inha bitants, all between 20 and 60 years of age, who pay an annual tax. It is reported that many were ftarved to death this year on ac count of the bad crop, and that great numbers were come from different provinces to get their livelihood here. Notwithftanding the induftry of the, people, their amazing populoufnefs frequently occafions a dearth. Parents who cannot fupport their female children, are al lowed to eaft them into the river ; however, they faften a gourd to the child, that it may float on the water ; and 'there are often com panionate people of fortune who are moved by the mournful cries of the children to fave them from death. Le Comte relates, that in the conqueft of Nankin by the Tartars, wo* men were fold in bags, and he who had bought an old woman, eaft both bag and woman into the river z . The boys which cannot be brought up by their parents are educated at the expence of the public. z Le Comte, p. 301. Vol. I. T The~ 274 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. The language of the country has nothing in common with any other ; it has no alphabet, but as many characters and different figures as they have words ; which have different fignifi- .cations according as they are differently pro nounced, and have different accents ; videlicet, Tcbu fignifies a mailer, a hog, a kitchen, and a pillar. Le Comte fhews that by the pronun ciation only they make 1 665 words quite differ ent from each other out of 333. He is reckoned very learned among the Chinefe who knows half their words ; for they have 80,000 characters a ; and for this reafon the Europeans think it impoflible to learn the Chinefe lan guage any other way than by abiding many years in China; and they likewife look upon it as unneccffary, fince they can avail them felves of the French, Portugueze, or Englifh languages, which the Chinefe fervants employ ed in trade have learned ; though they have a particular dialect, and think that he does not fpeak well who does not intermingle Englifh, Portugueze, and Dutch. Some of the Chinefe " It is faid that the emperor Koambi, 430a years ago, introduced the characters ; and afterwards wrote himfelf altronomical, arithmetical, and medical treatifes. Le Comte, Pj.189. fervants CHINA. 1751. 275 fervants fpeak Swedifi ; we likewife faw a man who had taken the Roman catholic religion in Siam, where he had been taught Latin, which he fpoke readily. This man's name was Thomas Tya, and he related that he was born 1 in Nanfiong, a place ten days journey from Canton. It is the more difficult for a foreigner to learn the Chinefe language, as there is a mixture of nations here, who all diftinguifh themfelves by their dialect, befide the eaftern Tartars, who fpeak their own Mantcheore language. In Tanking, Cochin China, and Japan, they make ufe of the fame characters as in China ; however, a Chinefe does not underftand their languages. Sometimes the names of animals cofre- fpond with the noife which thefe animals make; Miaa, a cat, &c. The compofed characters likewife deferve fome atten tion ; thus Tfai, which fignifies a misfortune, is compofed of Miane, a houfe, and Ho, Are, fince they can image to themfelves no greater misfortune than that of a houfe being reduced to allies. We can by no means pronounce fome words fo well as the Chinefe, becaufe to my knowledge the teeth of their upper jaw ftand out forwards a little : on the contrary* T 2 they 2r7 6 OS BECKYS VOYAGE. they are unable to pronounce all the Swedifi letters, but pronounce b, d, r, x, z, like />, t, I, ft f; they do not fpeak alike, and pro nounce a great many of their words- with a finging tone. When they are heard fpeaking to each other, one would frequently be inducr ed to believe they were quarrelling, in parti cular when they fhake their heads, and when they fpeak very loud, which is the cafe on fliip board, and in other great companies^ where they far exceed the clamour of our pooreft pot-houfes. Paper is made of the inner bark of bam boo (Arundo bambos) ; it is not at all like our paper, except in colour. Their flieets are as large as four of ours. On one fide it is as fmooth as glafs, but not on the other; and for this reafon they always lay their leaves double, and always write or paint on one fide only, and from the right to the left, from top to bottom. The printing paper is as thin as an egg's fkin, for which reafon the letters fhow through it. The fine paper which comes to- Europe with die tea is common enough. A fort of writing paper ftronger than the com mon writing paper, and which is bought by the name of Macao paper, is to* be had here » it CHINA 1751. 277 k may be written on with ink, and in my opi nion is to be preferred to any European fort, efpecially for drying plants. The Chinefe, who neither make ufe of pens nor of our ink in writing, but write with hair pencils dipt into Indian ink, can very well do with thinner paper. Inftead of an ink pot, they make ufe of a fmall marble tabic with elevated borders, of the fize of one's hand ; this ferves to mix the Indian ink, which, being diffolved in water, gathers in a little hole at one end of the ftone. Books in all forts of fciences are to be had "here, ftitched in thin white paper; but none in a foreign language. The fize of , their books anfwers to that of our royal octavo. All their books are printed with wooden plates, in the manner that the manufacturers in Eu rope print cottons. Their obfervations on the heavens and earth, and their hiftory, are remarkable on ac count of their antiquity •>. Their morals are looked upon as a mailer-piece ; their laws are confidered as excellent maxims of life ; their medicine and natural hiftory are both of them b According to their accounts, they go as high as the times of Noah. T 3 founded 278 OSBECK'S VOYAGE. founded on long experience0; and their huf bandry is admired for the perfection it has rifen to. But the want of the true knowledge of the Supreme Being is an imperfection whicb out:- weighs all their other knowledge. The religion in China is pagan; but by their own accounts, there are almoft as many feels as perfons among them : for as foon as a Chinefe- expects the leaft advantage from it, he is without any confideration to-day of one religion, to-morrow of another, or of all to gether : however, there are three principal fe