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The Passing of New Amsterdam AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BY Prof. WILLIAM ROBERT SHEPHERD OF COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY / The Passing of New Amsterdam AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BY Prof. WILLIAM ROBERT SHEPHERD OF COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY BEFORE THE Society of Colonial Wars IN THE STATE OF NEW YORK ON MARCH 18, 1912 m P PUBLICATION NUMBER 21 Under the Authority of the Council by THE COMMITTEE ON HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS AND THE SECRETARY NOVEMBER, 1912 THE PASSING QF NEW AMSTERDAM A paper read before the Society by Professor William Robert Shepherd of Columbia University on March 18, 1912. In tracing the fortunes of the Dutch community on the southern tip of Manhattan from its foundation to its merg ing into English New York two forces of development are perceptible. Of these, one strove to distinguish the city of New Amsterdam clearly from the province of New Nether- land; the other labored to emphasize the characteristics of moral and material progress that betokened such individu alism and justified its maintenance. Local self-improvement and local self-government, therefore — so essential to the welfare of a city — may be said to have dominated the history of New Amsterdam as factors molding the action of its magistrates. A topographical survey of the community just before it fell under English rule shows that the habit of crowd ing together for various reasons had retarded its geographical extension; and in particular the barrier formed by Wall Street not only had kept out the Indians and possible enemies from New England, but also had kept in the city on its northern line. In fact, the town as such did not grow beyond this rampart so long as it remained New Amsterdam. On the south Manhattan is now much broader than during the period of the Dutch occupation, for many of the mUd flats then in existence have been filled in and on them streets laid out, as, for example, Water Street. A great part of the Battery has been similarly reclaimed from the tides; From the so-called "Marckvelt" or Marketfield — "plaine," or the later Bowling Green — in front of the fort, where markets, fairs and festivities were often held, a road to the west of the city ran up a rather thinly populated hill. As it was the principal highway by which one could leave the city through the "Land-Gate" at the western end of Wall Street, it had the name of de Heeren Straat, or Weg or the Gentle men Street, and still retains its prominence as Broadway. THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM From the "Marckvelt" eastward was a thoroughfare known as the "Marckvelt Steegie," the present Marketfield Street, leading to the Heer Graacht or Broad Street. Near the corner of the present Broad and Bridge Streets on Friday mornings the Dutch and English merchants transacted their business in the first exchange thus founded in Manhattan. Here the centre of trade has not shifted in more than two centuries and a half, and the various huge exchanges are still in the neighborhood of their Dutch prototypes. The thoroughfare behind Fort Amsterdam, then ex tending properly from State Street to Whitehall Street, was the oldest and apparently the most populous on the island and still keeps its Dutch name of Pearl Street, however anglicized its mode of spelling. In the rear of the city hall ran a highway known to-day by its English equivalent of High Street, from a bridge over the outlet of the Broad Street canal, along the East River to the Water Gate at the junction of Pearl and Wall Streets, where one might leave the city on its eastern side. On High Street were located the residences of the fashionable folk of New Amsterdam. From the Water Gate the main road crossed the present Roosevelt Street, then a stream called the "Old Kill" by the famous "Kissing Bridge." "Here," says an English clergy man of the eighteenth century, "it was customary before passing beyond to salute the lady who is your companion." On his own behalf he ingenuously admitted that he found the practice "curious, yet not displeasing!" At this juncture it might be interesting to pause a moment and reflect upon the possible origin of this particular element in the social amenities of New Amsterdam. Perhaps as a testimonial to the improvement in educational facilities in the city the artful youth of the time may have desired to impress his knowledge of grammar upon the shy maiden at his side. Thereupon he might explain to her that since bridges and kisses are both a sort of conjunction, it might be allowable THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM for those who crossed the bridge to span the stream of conventional propriety just this once, as the bridge itself spanned the stream of Roosevelt Street. Whatever may have been the influence exercised by this logic, the practice seems to have been so much appreciated by the young men of the period — and possibly also by the young women — that at several other bridges on Manhattan, ordinarily free to cross, it became the rule to collect toll of this description. Somewhat north of the celebrated bridge in question the road ascended a hill so steep that a roundabout way had to be devised, and the loop made in the attempt to find a better grade still exists in Chatham Square. Wending our path still further north we come to the "bouwerie" or farm and country residence of Director Stuyvesant, located roughly between Third Avenue and the East River, Sixth and Six teenth Streets, from which an international thoroughfare of great renown derives its name. The house itself stood near the corner of Twelfth Street and Third Avenue. It formed the nucleus of Bowery Village. Considerably to the north of Stuyvesant's "bouwerie" lay another settlement, which in the twentieth century at least has become of prime importance, whatever may have been its standing in the seventeenth. Situated generally north of a line stretching from the present Eighth Avenue and 112th Street to the East River at 100th Street were broad, moist and fertile meadows called by the Dutch "The Flats." On account of an apparent similarity to their own well-watered lowlands at home, Dutch settlers had established themselves there quite early. So large comparatively did the number become that in 1658 the director and council decided to promote agriculture and at the same time to provide a "place of amusement for the burghers of New Amsterdam," by elevating the settlement to the dignity of a village. The selection of a name gave rise to a small tempest. Every resident Dutchman naturally wanted it to be called THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM after his own native town. The gratification of all these desires would probably1 have stunted the growth of the incipient village by the mere weight of names ; hence Stuyvesant found it expedient to intervene and, having ascertained that none of the settlers had come from Haarlem, prevented any feelings of jealousy by naming the place New Haarlem. Wide privileges were thereupon offered to any newcomers and a good road was promised to facilitate transit between that village and New Amsterdam "on horse back or in a wagon." Thus early did the problem of rapid transit to Harlem cast its shadows. Further inducements to settle were offered in the shape of a ferry to Long Island, the organization of a court and the appointment of "a good orthodox clergyman as soon as the village should have a population of twenty-five families." Ere long a little tavern rose on the banks of the Harlem River and became a popular resort for pleasure parties from the city, but just why it should be christened the "Wedding Place" does not appear. By 1660 New Haarlem contained the requisite number of families and was accordingly vested with a separate village government, composed of a deputy schout and three schepens appointed by the magistrates of New Amsterdam out of a double number presented by the retiring board and subordinate, of course, to the municipal authorities. New Haarlem thus reproduced some of the individualism of the parent city and, in the progress of the centuries, like it in name has come to spread over a much wider area. Yet in the straw-thatched farmhouse on the flats of New Haarlem we may hardly detect the prototype of the institution known as the Harlem flat! Continuing our study of New Amsterdam as a locality, it may be said that the systematic improvement and regula tion of the city in a physical sense date from 1655. The wisdom of bettering the external appearance and facilities of a municipal establishment that could boast a census of THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM 120 houses and 1,000 inhabitants so impressed the burgo masters and schepens that in November of that year they had the city properly surveyed so as to locate city lots and provided for a suitable .alignment of the city thoroughfares. In addition to the alignment of the streets, the question of paving them arose in 1657 and, as often is the case with municipal improvements, the idea came from a woman, Mrs. Oloff Stevensen Van Cortlandt, whose husband's brewery and residence lay on Brouwer or Brewer Street, between the present Whitehall and Broad Streets, and so named from the several plants of the standard Dutch and German industry located on it. It seems that the street in question was so dusty that the worthy dame could not keep her house clean; hence she ventilated the subject so vigorously among her neighbors that they petitioned the burgomasters and schepens to have the thoroughfare paved. The work was assigned to a contractor, who laid down a rude paving of cobblestones or the like, whereupon the name of the street was changed to what it now bears, viz. : Stone Street. The cost of the work thus undertaken by the city at the request of the property owners was apportioned among these persons, and thereby furnishes one of the first examples of what is now a very common practice, namely, that of levying a local assessment with, and even without, the consent of the persons whose property is immediately affected, for the special advantages derived from what are really public improvements. Before 1661, presumably by a resort to this method of special assessment, all of the streets most in use had been paved with cobblestones. The gutters lay in the middle of the street, which served as a highway for man and beast alike, since sidewalks there were none. A similar plan to effect public improvements is visible in the resolution of the city magistrates about the same time to check the tendency of the banks along the inlet running through the centre of the present Broad Street to cave in, by shoring them up with planks and charging the resultant THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM cost upon the owners of abutting property. The persons concerned did not receive the idea kindly. They denounced the proposed improvement as useless, extravagant and un desirable; but they ingenuously remarked that, if it were to be made at the expense of the city, it would greatly benefit the public at large. The distinction does not seem to have penetrated Stuyvesant, or if it did he evinced no sign, for he had the natural canal widened to sixteen feet, its banks properly strengthened and the roadway on each side of the stream made twenty-eight feet in breadth, or in all seventy- two feet, which is the average width of Broad Street to-day. When some of the property holders wrathfully declined to pay Stuyvesant simply locked them up until they cooled off and changed their minds. The wooden sidings and other betterments suggested more of the same description; hence, in 1660, a city ordi nance, after alluding to the advantages enjoyed by the im mediate residents in having a landing place without the expenses of a dock, prescribed that these favored individuals should themselves pave the roadways on both banks of the canal, otherwise the city would do it at their expense. Furthermore, to keep the watery section of this important highway for trade and commerce free from obstructions, the throwing of any rubbish into it was strictly prohibited. Some persons ventured to violate this ordinance, but when prosecuted proved to the satisfaction of the magistrates that, since the rubbish they had dumped into the canal was snow, it probably would not interfere very much with navigation and they were accordingly released. The preservation of thoroughfares from nuisance, espe cially that made by roving animals of the domestic sort, had often indeed engaged the attention of the authorities, but the measures hitherto taken to protect the roads of the city and the walls of Fort Amsterdam against the destructive under mining of that insidious leveller, the wandering pig, had been so ineffective that the Director and Council ordered the THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM inhabitants in future to put rings through the noses of all such miscreants. One class of animals, however, obtained favorable con sideration, namely, the cows belonging to the citizens of New Amsterdam. Perhaps the possession of the exclusive burgher-right by their owners may have suggested the creation of a kind of bovine aristocracy as well. At any rate, a tract of land near the Collect, or the Fresh Water — the pond about Centre Street, hitherto used as a common for pasturing cattle — was in 1660 fenced in and reserved for the citizens' cows alone. One Gabriel Carpsey was their herdsman and like his angelic namesake he carried a horn which, to pursue the likeness still further, he blew in the morning at the gates of the owners, collected his drove and conducted it along Broadway through Pearl Street and Maiden Lane to its exclusive pasture. In the evening the procession wound slowly homeward from the lea and Gabriel's trumpet announced the several arrivals at the proper destinations. The wooden siding along the banks of the watery portion of Broad Street, erected at the expense of the vicinage, was not the only structure of the kind. On account of the necessity of protecting the shore in front of the city hall and the houses of the inhabitants along Pearl Street against the inroads of high tides from the East River, the magistrates decided to have planks driven down and a "schoeynge" or sheet piling thus made. It extended from the foot of Broad Street to the city hall at Coenties Slip, thence to the Water Gate at the corner of Pearl and Wall Streets. The fine dry walk formed in this way was called the "Waal" and is to be distinguished from Wall Street, which ran nearly at right angles to it. Along this promenade the young men and maidens of the city would take their evening stroll, "watching the silver moonbeams as they trembled on the calm bosom of the bay, or lit up the sail THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM of some gliding bark and peradventure interchanging the soft vows of honest affection." The proximity of Director Stuyvesant's new city resi dence, moreover, on the corner of State and Whitehall Streets to the promenade on the "Waal" might serve to explain why he was occasionally to be found among the strollers, not, however, of the peculiar type just described. His official domicile in the fort had become so dilapidated that in 1659 he erected the house in question out of hewn white stone, which gave its name to the street. Gardens sur rounded it on three sides and in front the lawn stretched down to the water's edge. In 1657 and 1658 salutary measures were adopted to safeguard the persons and property of the citizens by calling into existence the Dutch forerunners of the metropolitan fire and police departments. The proximity of the wooden houses with their thatched roofs and wooden chimneys to equally inflammable haystacks caused the city authorities to direct the removal of the latter to a safe distance, and later they decided to levy a tax of one guilder on each chimney, from the proceeds of which hooks and ladders and leather fire buckets were to be purchased. In order to avoid the delay and difficulty incident to the importation of the buckets from the Netherlands, the magistrates re solved to patronize home industry; hence they entrusted to the shoemakers of New Amsterdam the contract of supply ing the city with a suitable number. When completed, these buckets were located "at the corners of the streets, in public houses and in other places convenient of access." For example, fifty were placed in the city hall at Coenties Slip, twelve in a tavern near the corner of Broad and Pearl Streets, and a like number in a private house in the Smit's Vly near South William Street. This apparatus and the supervision of the two fire wardens constituted the first fire department on Manhattan. Some years later, when it became known that certain rich people had a number of THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM fireplaces connected with the same chimney, thus causing the incidence of taxation to fall unequally, the city government ordered the assessment to be levied upon each fireplace instead. More or less as an adjunct to the fire department, the project of forming a "rattle watch" or police force had been mooted as early as 1654 as a substitute for the volunteer citizens' night watch or, in the words of the record: "by consideration of the small accommodation and convenience for the citizens' watch, and likewise because of the great cost of fire and light for the same, making it burdensome upon the citizens to sustain them during the winter." At this time, however, no one seemed inclined to assume the duty of springing a rattle to frighten off the midnight marauder, of detecting the presence of fire or of calling out the hours and simultaneously assuring the Dutchman who sonorously slept them away that all was well. Not until 1658 did the magistrates feel emboldened to draw up a set of regulations governing the organization and activity of the first police force established on Manhattan. It was composed of a captain and eight men. For the support of this body the captain was authorized to collect fifteen stivers a month from every household. The rules and regulations will bear inspection, since they reveal certain difficulties inherent in the management of policemen, which indicate how truly the guardians of the peace in New Amsterdam resembled their later counterparts in New York. Penalties in the shape of fines — or to use the common phraseology, days' pay — were imposed for many familiar derelictions of duty; e. g., tardiness in arriving at the "usual hour, to wit: before bell ring;" not coming in person on the watch or, being occupied on reasonable busi ness, not putting another in his place; arriving drunk on the watch or committing any opposition or insolence "within the square of the city hall" or in going the rounds; sleeping or negligence on post, or failure to apprehend thieves, and THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM lying still when people call "Val Val," or being otherwise disobedient. In the same category were placed: swearing, fighting on the watch, unwillingness "to go around or in any way lose a turn," and being off post without leave. On the other hand, fines were levied on persons who might "challenge any of the watch to come with him to fight" or threaten a policeman to "beat him in the morning" when the watch was dismissed, or fight him when on or off duty. The record then adds significantly and prophetically: "Whatever any of the watch shall get from any of the prisoners, whether lock up money, present or other fee, . . . shall be brought into the hands of the captain for the benefit of the fellow watchmen and shall be there preserved until it be divided around." . . . "All the fines which accrue, and the profits, which in any wise shall be realized by insolence, fault, neglect or otherwise, shall be divided four times a year among the members of the watch . . . without their holding any drinking meeting thereupon or keeping any club." This comparatively lucrative office of policeman called for night duty from nine o'clock in the evening till drum beat, approximately six o'clock in the morning, and was awarded in addition to the perquisites just mentioned, with a salary of eighteen guilders a month, besides extra allow ances for candles and several hundred sticks of firewood. Not until January, 1661, however, was the police depart ment of New Amsterdam finally organized and the names of the volunteer officers obtained. The names in question: Captain Lodowyck Pos and Patrolmen Jan Cornelisen Vlens- burgh, Hendrick Hendrickzen van Doesburgh, Cornelis Hen- dricksen, Andries Andriesen, Cornelis Barensen, Pieter Jansen van de Lange Straat, Pieter Jansen Werckendam and Mattys Muller betokened a Dutch solidarity that little presaged the predominantly Irish complexion of the New York policemen of to-day. 10 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM Disquieting rumors from abroad and the rebellious be havior of the English towns under Dutch jurisdiction on Long Island caused Stuyvesant, in February, 1664, to call a joint meeting of the Council, with the burgomasters and schepens, as was his custom when about to consider matters of great public moment. He then asked the advice of the assembled body as to the feasibility of suppressing the insur rection on Long Island and of fortifying Nev/ Amsterdam against possible attacks from England or from the colonists of that country beyond the Connecticut River. With justi fiable pride the municipal magistrates declared that the city adorned as it was "with so many noble buildings at the expense of the good and faithful inhabitants . . . that it nearly excels any other place in North America," should be well fortified and its military force increased, thereby to "install fear into any envious neighbors." But when the governor asked for contributions to this end the burgo masters and schepens displayed a spirit that, while it did credit to their caution and thriftiness, did not reveal any high degree of patriotism, any particular loyalty to their native country. Taking into account, however, the neglect shown by the Dutch West India Company, and even by the Dutch govern ment, to the colony in the new world, it is not so surprising that the people whose real interests had been so persistently ignored should be haggling over questions of expenditure, procrastinating, and even acting quite indifferent as to the outcome, provided only that their lives, property and privi leges were to remain intact. In reply to the Director's re quest for pecuniary aid the burgomasters and schepens pleaded poverty and intimated that the company, through Stuy vesant as its representative in New Netherland, ought to furnish a few hundred soldiers and pay them from the money it received in customs duties. The governor then asked them to make some arrangement for the erection of defensive palisades. To this the magistrates rejoined that 11 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM the company's negro slaves ought to be employed in cutting and hauling them. For an illustration of their real indifference as to whether England or Holland had possession of New Nether land, the following may be cited from the records : "We are of opinion," said the city magistrates, "that the burgher is not bound to dispute whether this be the King of England's soil or their High Mightinesses, but if they (the English) will deprive (us) of our properties, freedoms and privileges (we are bound), to resist them with our lives and fortunes." Such a statement must have seemed to a man of the mold of Stuyvesant sordid and pusillanimous, if not indeed treasonable. But he succeeded in keeping his temper and proceeded to inquire rather sarcastically whether the city militia would assume any share in the measures of defence. The magistrates calmly observed that the burgher guard might keep watch by night, but the company's soldiers in the fort should mount guard by day. Eventually the city's representatives did come to the conclusion that fortifications in the shape of a stone wall ought to be erected on the land side of Manhattan and pali sades along the shores of both rivers. For this laudable purpose they declared a loan should be raised on condition — and here municipal individualism again emerged — that all of the revenues from the excise be turned into the city treasury. Under the circumstances the governor had to yield and he accordingly surrendered the tax for a period of five years within which the debt incurred by the city in raising the loan must be paid off. He also stipulated that the city should enlist a volunteer force of 200 men and in addition provide for the maintenance of 160 regular soldiers. Within a few days the sum of 27,500 guilders was subscribed on the security of city property and the proceeds from the excise. The burgomasters and schepens did not stand alone in their attitude, since popular conven tions summoned at their suggestion by Stuyvesant from 12 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM New Amsterdam and its vicinity to deliberate on the state of the province declined to vote supplies or to sanction the drafting of men until the Director could afford better assurances that the Company would fulfil its share of the obligations. Warned that an English expedition had sailed from Portsmouth, presumably with hostile intent against New Netherland, the burghers on Manhattan had thus begun to prepare for defense when a letter came from the Company, deceived by false information from London that the inhabi tants of New Netherland need apprehend no danger, since King Charles the Second had dispatched the squadron merely to adjust certain matters in New England and to establish there the Anglican faith. Stuyvesant thereupon went to Fort Orange (Albany) on business, but he had hardly arrived at his destination when the news that the English expedition had been sighted off the Massachusetts coast caused the provincial council to recall the Director in haste. The schout, burgomasters and schepens then re solved to ask the provincial government for twenty-five negroes to labor eight days at the defensive works, beginning with the next week. At the same time they ordered that one-third of the inhabitants should work every third day with a shovel, spade or wheelbarrow. They also approved the mounting of a citizen guard every night and the parade ' of one company of the city militia daily at five o'clock, duly supplied with one pound of powder and one and a half pounds of lead. Finally, to insure the proper provisioning of the city, they forbade the brewers to malt hard grain for the space of eight days or to brew beer higher than twelve guilders a ton. This done, they turned to the Director and Council with a petition for eight more pieces of cannon, besides the necessary appurtenances and ammunition, making twenty-two in all to be placed upon the walls of Fort Amsterdam. They also requested a supply of lead for musket balls and expressed the opinion that the walls of 13 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM the city should be defended by the soldiers, the company's servants and the burgher guard first, lest, if the city itself be captured, the fort become thereby untenable. The Director and Council granted the requests, but they were rather more prolific in promise than in fulfilment regarding the matter of powder. This was destined to be the last official com munication between the provincial and municipal authorities. The English squadron of four vessels, under the com mand of Colonel Nicolls, anchored just below the Narrows, between New Utrecht and Coney Island, on August 29, 1664. Affecting not to know its errand, Stuyvesant sent a commission of four, viz. : one councillor, one burgo master and two clergymen, to inquire the purpose of the visit. On the next day the English commander dispatched in reply four commissioners to demand the surrender "of the town situate on the island and commonly known by the name of Manhattoes." He accompanied the summons with a proclamation assuring protection in person and prop erty to all who would voluntarily submit. As fond of dis play as ever, the Director received the English officers with a salvo of artillery that appreciably lessened the scanty stock of powder in the fort. After the communication had been delivered Stuyvesant called a joint session of the provincial and municipal authorities to consider the matter, but he flatly refused to publish the terms offered lest the people might insist upon surrendering. To a meeting of citizens the burgomasters explained the demands of Nicolls. The burghers forthwith called for a copy of the paper and obtained it despite a flash of Stuyvesant's old demeanor when he declared that he should not be held responsible for the "calamitous consequences" of submitting to the popular will. Again when Nicolls offered still more liberal terms the Director communicated them to the Council and burgo masters in the fort. The officials promptly advised that the offer be made known to the people, since "all which regarded the public welfare ought to be made public." At 14 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM first Stuyvesant tried to dissuade them from this opinion, then finding them inflexible he burst into a rage and tore the letter in pieces. Upon the receipt of this news the burghers dropped their work on the fortifications, hurried down to the fort and made a categorical demand for the letter. In vain did Stuyvesant threaten and cajole. Complaints and curses against the Company's misgovernment were mingled with hoarse cries for the letter. To avoid insurrection the Director was forced reluctantly to allow the secretary to piece together the fragments and to make out a copy, which he delivered to the burgomasters, who in turn read its contents to the people. Meanwhile Stuyvesant had sent to Nicolls a lengthy statement of the Dutch rights, but the English officer and his colleagues politely informed him that "they were not come here to dispute about it, but to execute their order and commission without fail, either peaceably or by force, and if they had anything to dispute about it, it must be done with His Majesty of England, as they could do nothing here in the premises." Nicolls then began to prepare for the bombardment of the fort. Two of the vessels landed troops at Gravesend, who marched up to the Brooklyn shore, where they effected a junction with colonial volunteers from New England and the Long Island towns. The other ships passed in front of the fort and anchored between it and Governor's Island, with the decks cleared for action and the guns shotted. Standing at an angle of the fort the Dutch Director scanned the movements of the enemy while an artilleryman at his side held a lighted fuse ready to apply it at the word of command. But the word never came, for just at this moment Dominie Megapolensis laid a hand gently on the old soldier's arm. "Of what avail," pleaded the man of God, "are our poor guns against that broadside of more than sixty? It is wrong to shed blood to no purpose." Still confident of ultimate escape, the Director tried to arrange IS THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM some kind of a compromise with Nicolls. "To-morrow," said the English commander, "I will speak with you at Manhattan." "Friends," answered Stuyvesant quickly, "will be welcome if they come in a friendly manner." "I shall come with my ships and soldiers," rejoined Nicolls grimly, "and he will be a bold messenger indeed who shall then dare to come on board and solicit terms. . . . Raise the white flag of peace at the fort and then something may be considered." The defiant old governor had not yet despaired, though men, women and children implored him to submit. The city magistrates, the clergymen and the officers of the burgher guard then adopted a remonstrance, depicting the helpless condition of the city, "encompassed and hemmed in by enemies," and when the valiant but obstinate old man saw his own son's name in the list he said sadly : "Well, let it be so — I would much rather be carried to my grave." Thus fell the city of New Amsterdam, forty-one years after its first settlement and eleven years after its incorporation. The question now arises paranthetically : Could New Amsterdam have withstood the English attack? The evi dence shows conclusively that even the headstrong loyalty and heroism of Stuyvesant alike in precept and example could have availed nothing against the overwhelming odds. In the forefront of weakness put the indifference and pro crastination of the burghers themselves and their municipal representatives, the motives for which have already been noted. These, coupled with a thrift amounting almost to parsimony, and a rather phlegmatic temperament averse to fighting, will explain why the city lay exposed to assault without a fortification along both rivers. And certainly if the walls of Fort Amsterdam so readily succumbed to the snout of the predatory pig they could hardly stand the test of English artillery. In fact, some of the private houses clustering about the fort exceeded its walls in height and offered an easy approach by scaling 16 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM ladders. True, that stronghold mounted twenty-four guns at the time, but with only six hundred pounds of powder available their effectiveness must have speedily terminated. Besides, the hills to the north over which ran the present Broadway commanded the structure completely. Even Stuyvesant himself admitted later that "there was an abso lute impossibility of defending the fort, much less the city of New Amsterdam." As to the ramparts and palisades on Wall Street, the only fortified makeshift the city possessed, whereas they might deter acrobatic Indians from jumping over, they could not endure a regular military siege. Furthermore, out of a population of 1,500, perhaps 250 were capable of bearing arms, in addition to the 150 regular soldiers in the fort, and these forces would have had to encounter 1,000 English soldiers and sailors, as well as a large number of colonial volunteers. Here again, granting the equivalence of one Dutchman to four Englishmen, the military defenders of New Amsterdam themselves could not be relied on. Neither the burgher guard nor the farmers in the vicinity were inclined to fight, and the troops in the fort, verging on the point of mutiny, muttered about the places "where booty is to be found, and where the young women live who wear gold chains." The inhabitants of New Amsterdam naturally dreaded the consequences of a useless resistance, a capture by storm and the ensuing outrageous treatment especially by the English colonials, "who expected nothing else than pillage, plunder and blood shed, as men could perceive by their cursing and talking when mention was made of a capitulation." On September 6, 1664, the commission to arrange the terms of surrender met at Stuyvesant's bouwerie. Among other privileges the Dutch were promised security in prop erty and business, liberty of conscience and the like. For the present, also, the municipal magistrates should retain their offices and discharge their usual functions. Two days later "the fort and town called New Amsterdam upon the 17 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM island of Manhattoes" formally surrendered, and with ex-Director General Stuyvesant at the head, the Dutch garrison marched out with their arms, drums beating and colors flying and lighted matches. It was a sad moment for the old autocrat of New Amsterdam as he beheld his little army departing for the Fatherland, and the passing of his city to the foreigner and himself to retirement. The fort was renamed Fort James, the city New York and the province the same. All the public rights and franchises, also, of the Dutch West India Company, of course, became the property of the Duke of York. What aspect did incipient New York City present to Colonel Nicolls, who now assumed the duties of provincial governor? To quote from contemporary descriptions: "The town is compact and oval, with very fair streets and several good houses . . . built most of brick and stone and covered with red and black tile . . . after the manner of Holland, to the number of about four hundred . . . which in those parts are held considerable . . . and the land being high it gives at the distance a pleasing aspect to the spectators. . . . The city has an earthen fort . . . within (which) . . . stand a wind mill and a very high staff upon which a flag is hoisted whenever any vessel is seen in . . . (the lower) bay. The church rises with a lofty doubled roof, between which a square tower looms up. On the one side is the prison and on the other side of the church is the governor's house. ... At the waterside stand the gallows and the whip (ping post) (and) a handsome city tavern adorns the furthest point." How ever this appearance of the Anglo-Dutch city of New York may have impressed the English governor at the outset, it was not very long before he echoed the pride of its magis trates when he wrote to the Duke of York that it was "the best of all His Majesty's towns in America." In this connection it will be interesting to recall how these magistrates regarded the change of rule. A few 18 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM days after the surrender they wrote to the Dutch West India Company: "We, your Honors' loyal, sorrowful and desolate subjects, cannot neglect nor keep from relating the event which, through God's pleasure . . . unexpect edly happened to us in consequence of your Honors' neglect and forgetfulness. . . . Since we have no longer to depend on your Honors' promises of protection, we, with all the poor, sorrowing and abandoned commonalty here must fly for refuge to the Almighty . . . not doubting but He will stand by us in this sorely afflicting conjuncture." . . . After the names of the burgomasters and schepens comes the highly significant subscription: "Done at Yorck, heretofore named Amsterdam in New Netherland." To the Duke of York they wrote after Governor Nicolls had administered to them the oath of office: "It has pleased God to bring us under your Royal Highness' obedi ence, wherein we promise to conduct ourselves as good sub jects are bound to do, deeming ourselves fortunate that His Highness has provided us with so gentle, wise and intelligent a gentleman as governor as the Honorable Colonel Nicolls, confident and assured that under the wings of this valiant gentleman we shall bloom and grow like the cedar on Lebanon, especially because we are assured of His Royal Highness' excellent graciousness and care for his subjects and people." . . . "Praying then his Royal Highness to be pleased to take our interest and the welfare of this country into serious consideration ... we are your . . . dutiful subjects, schout, burgomasters and schepens of this city." Just as the previous subscription indicated a state of transition, so now the indorsement of this com munication reveals the transition completed: "Done, New Yorck, on Manhattans Island, 1664." In their new sphere, however, the city magistrates did not forget to honor the masterful old Director who had guided the destinies of New Amsterdam from its rise as a city, through the period of municipal individualism to its establishment 19 THE PASSING OF NEV/ AMSTERDAM as New York. Says the record: "Petrus Stuyvesant . . . communicates . . . as he is about to depart for Father land, that he wishes fhe bench of burgomasters and schepens every luck and happiness, which was also wished to him by burgomasters and schepens and that he may settle and arrange his affairs in Fatherland to his satisfaction. And the above-named Herr Stuyvesant requests, if the burgo masters and schepens think proper, that they accord to him a certificate of his comportment, which may avail him or his children to-day or to-morrow. And they resolve as follows : We, the undersigned schout, burgomasters and schepens of the city of New Yorck, on the island of Man hattan, formerly named New Amsterdam, certify and declare, at the request of the Honorable Petrus Stuyvesant, late Director General of New Netherland, and who now on the change by the English is about to return to Patria, that his Honor has during about eighteen years' administration conducted and demeaned himself not only as Director Gen eral, according to the best of our knowledge ought to do, on all occurring circumstances, for the interest of the West India Cdmpany, but besides as an honest proprietor and patriot of this province and a supporter of the reformed religion." This was not only a graceful tribute to the sterling character of Stuyvesant, but was designed to aid him in the defence of his conduct before the Company and the Dutch government. He returned to Manhattan triumphantly vindicated, gave up his house on Whitehall Street to the English governor as an official residence and retired to his bouwerie. He and Nicolls became fast friends and many were the genial repasts enjoyed by the English governor and his Dutch predecessor at the country house. For some years the familiar and picturesque figure of the venerable Director was seen about the streets of New York. Interested in the civil and religious welfare of his beloved city, he lived to the hale old age of eighty, "lovable" and "admir- 20 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM able," a noble gentleman of the ancient type, but to the day of his death in 1672 cherishing not a "particle of respect for popular liberty ... or notions about the rights of man." He was buried in a vault under the little church he had built on his bouwerie. On the site of that chapel stands St. Mark's Church, and on a stone embedded in the wall of that building the curious wayfarer may still read the inscription that reveals the last resting place of Peter Stuyvesant. Turning now to a brief survey of the circumstances under which New Amsterdam passed into New York with the purpose of showing the modifications introduced by the English system of government, it may be said that the magis trates continued to transact their judicial and administrative business immediately after the surrender as calmly as if nothing unusual had occurred. And not until it became necessary to choose new officers did the first political change appear. Instead of being permitted to present a double number of names from which the governor could select the incumbents for the vacant offices, the retiring board of burgomasters and schepens were allowed merely to nominate the precise number of persons whom the gov ernor then formally appointed. But even this shadow of municipal individualism did not last long. In June, 1665, Nicolls abolished the "form of government late in practice within His Majesty's town of New York, under the name and style of schout, burgomasters and schepens, which are not known or customary in any of His Majesty's dominions," and substituted for it "one body politic and corporate under the government of a mayor, aldermen and sheriff." The governor then proceeded to appoint directly the mayor, Thomas Willett, five aldermen and the sheriff. In this arrangement it will be noticed that the office of sheriff follows the others, as compared with the practice of the Dutch in mentioning the office of schout first. This devia tion from the Dutch custom merely indicates that the 21 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM English considered the dignity and duties of a sheriff to be inferior to those of the other officers, whereas the Dutch, by making the schout at once the sheriff, the public prosecutor and the supervisor of the customs assigned to the office a higher dignity and importance, therefore plac ing it at the head of the list of municipal magistrates. Of the city officials thus appointed by the governor the mayor was an Englishman, as also were two of the aldermen and the sheriff. The old burgomasters and schepens, some of whom were on the new board, entered an earnest pro test against the method of appointment as involving a viola tion of the terms of surrender, of which one had provided that all magistrates should continue . . . till the time of election and then new ones were to be chosen by themselves. To this projected revival of individualism for the city Nicolls suavely replied that at the first election held after the establishment of the English power the retiring magis trates had chosen their successors with his approval, and these officials had remained in office up to the present; hence the terms in question had not undergone infringement. The burgomasters and schepens, now about to disappear from the municipal register, ventured to remonstrate against this close construction of the language, but since the governor was technically right, and since he had received orders from the Duke of York to "establish the government of the city conformable to the customs of England," he politely ignored the protest and installed his appointees on June 14. This plan of direct appointment, instead of the Dutch method of participation by the city officials themselves, remained in force till 1669, when, after Nicolls had been succeeded as governor by Colonel Francis Lovelace, the mayor and aldermen prevailed on the new governor to restore the Dutch practice. They accordingly submitted to him a list of names double the number required for the offices of mayor, aldermen and sheriff, out of which Lovelace 22 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM graciously chose' the necessary half. On the occasion also of his accession to the governorship, Lovelace presented to the city authorities on behalf of the Duke of York what were called at the time "the gayety and circumstantial part of government;" namely, a new seal, a silver mace and seven ornate gowns for the seven dignitaries of New York. Other modifications introduced by the advent of English rule were: the employment of the jury system as against the Dutch method of referees ; the support of clergymen by the city instead of by the provincial government, and in 1668 the abolition of the exclusive burgher right created eleven years before. The reasons for the act last named may be found in the fact that being subject to English jurisdiction they had no competition to fear from their colonial neighbors and the like, and also that, since the municipal offices were no longer the perquisite of great burghers alone, the institution had simply lapsed. 'Over another modification, however, quite a little controversy arose. This was the plan to quarter soldiers on the inhabitants. According to Governor Nicolls the soldiers of the garrison at Fort James "were not boarded or washed nor had pot or kettle to cook for themselves," and besides were inclined to insolence and disturbance as a result of these conditions. For the peace of the citizens he believed it needful to quarter the soldiers on them. To this end the provincial government would furnish a certain amount of provisions and the householder would receive from the city two guilders a week for the maintenance of the men. In order to obtain the needful revenue for such expenditure he would reassign to the city the income from the excise, the weigh scales and the ferry, all of which had been seized by the provincial government at the time of the surrender. But out of fifty householders- summoned to consider the question only ten professed willingness to harbor the soldiers. That the rate of board rather than 23 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM the principle of household quartering of troops had some thing to do with this reluctance was manifest when in October, 1665, the governor agreed to increase the payments to be made to the temporary landlord for board, lodging, washing, small beer and firewood, whereupon the soldiers obtained the residence desired. However well treated the English soldiers may have been at the hands of the New York householders, they could not cope with the huge fleet of twenty-three Dutch warships, having on board 1,600 men under the command of Admirals Evertsen and Binckes, when it arrived off Sandy Hook, August 7, 1673. The situation was practically the same as in 1664, except that a Dutch expedition now menaced New York as an English expedition had threatened New Amsterdam. True to the reversal of positions, English commissioners were sent to demand why the Dutch fleet had come in "such a hostile manner to disturb His Majesty's subjects in this place." To this bold front the Dutch com manders replied that they had come simply to take what was "their own and their own they would have." After further negotiations at the expiration of a specified half hour, unlike the occurrence in 1664, the Dutch vessels opened fire on the fort, killing and wounding several of the garrison. There upon Captain Anthony Colve landed with six hundred men on the shore of the Hudson, back of the present Trinity Church, and marched down Broadway. Before they could arrive at the fort they were met with proposals for a surrender on substantially the same terms as those of 1664. The naval commanders thereupon assumed possession of the province in the name of the Dutch government. They also rechristened the province New Netherland, its capital and metropolis New Orange, instead of New Amsterdam, and the fort, William Henry, after the name of the Stad- holder of Holland, who later became King William III of England, and appointed Captain Colve as military governor. On August 15 a general meeting of the burghers, who 24 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM had cordially welcomed the restoration of Dutch rule, was convened at the city hall to elect six persons for burgo masters and fifteen for schepens from among the wealthy people and those of the Reformed Calvinistic faith only. From this number the military government selected three names for burgomasters, thus making one additional, and the usual number of five schepens. The schout, as the most important officer, was appointed directly, and the new municipal government inaugurated on August 17. But if the people of New Orange, formerly New Amsterdam and New York, imagined that the return of Dutch rule meant an enhancement of municipal individu alism the military governer soon convinced them of their mistake. Indeed the system of control exercised by the provincial authorities under the Dutch restoration was more severe than anything the city had known since its incorpora tion. Explained in the light of the conduct displayed by the inhabitants of New Amsterdam on the advent of the English in 1664, the strictness of the military government seems due to a more or less reasonable suspicion of the con stancy of the political affections cherished by the citizens of Manhattan, as well as to the fear of English counter- occupation. Of course, the municipal magistrates had to renounce the insignia of English forms — "the gayety and circumstantial part of government" furnished by the official seal, mace and gowns, which were carefully deposited in the fort. And in his instructions to the schout, burgo masters and schepens regarding their judicial and administra tive duties, Governor Colve restricted the nomination of the double number of persons by the retiring board to the "most wealthy . . . and such ... as are of the Reformed Christian religion, or at least well affected towards it;" reserved the right to intensify conservative rule by keeping the present incumbents in office, and ordered a military commissioner to preside at the sessions of the mag istracy in his behalf. Naturally, the schout, burgomasters 25 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM and schepens resented the suspicion involved in the pres ence of this officer and protested to the governor that it violated the practices of the Fatherland, injured the privileges of the bench and the burghers, and seriously depreciated their character. The stern threat of instant dismissal from office, how ever, checked any further remonstrance and in July, 1674, much to their disgust, the burgomasters and schepens beheld their pet aversion, the military commissioner, elevated to the permanent presidency of the board in the capacity of schout. In the following month, also, the governor tightened the reins of control by reducing the number of burgomasters from three to two as formerly and lowering the normal number of schepens from five to three, while he retained the direct appointment of the schout. He did allow the old sys tem of double election for the burgomasters and schepens to continue, but modified it by having only one burgomaster retire at a time, thus insuring the possibility of a longer term of service if deemed necessary. Just as the governor believed it advisable to forestall any refractory conduct on the part of the city magistrates, so did these officials deem it necessary to check the dis orderly practices on Sunday in particular, which the recent changes had probably aggravated. The last ordinance on the observance of the Sabbath to be framed under Dutch auspices on Manhattan closely resembled earlier regulations on the subject in that it forbade "from sunrise to sundown . . . all sorts of handicraft, trade and traffic, gaming, boat racing or running with carts or wagons, fishing, fowl ing, running and picking nuts, strawberries and the like, all riotous racing, calling and shouting of children in the streets, together with all unlawful exercises and games, drunkenness, frequenting taverns or tap-houses, dancing, cardplaying, ballplaying, rolling nine pins or bowls, which is more in vogue on this than on any other day." All tavern keepers and tapsters, therefore, were "strictly 26 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM enjoined to entertain no clubs on this day . . . nor . . . suffer any games in their houses or places under a heavy penalty." And if any children be caught on the street playing, racing and shouting previous to the termina tion of the last preaching, the officers of the law may take their hat or upper garment, which shall not be restored to their parents until they have paid a fine. "The inten tion of such prohibition" was "not that a stranger or citizen shall not buy a drink of wine or beer for the assuaging of his thirst, but only to prevent the sitting of clubs on the Sabbath, whereby many are hindered resorting to Divine Worship." Taken as a whole, the ordinance indicates clearly two facts : first, that the old prohibition against the sale of liquor on the Sabbath had undergone a liberal modifi cation and, second, that after all, judging from the list of offences just catalogued, Manhattan must have been a lively island for young men and old, despite the current notion about the ponderous solemnity of its Dutch citizens. About this time also it appears that the fences, as well as the morals, at least of the people residing between Haarlem and the Freshwater (Centre Street), needed salutary correction. In the instructions drawn up by the magistrates for the fence viewers it is stated that, not only shall an individual keep his own fence in repair, but if he thinks his neighbor's fence not good or sufficient, "and dreading damage thereby" from migratory animals, "shall first request his neighbor in love and friendship to repair his fence," otherwise he must complain to the proper officials. The depredations still committed by stray animals of a certain kind upon the fortifications led the military governor to command that their sphere of activity "within this city and" its jurisdiction unto the Fresh Water" be confined within fences on pain of confiscation. In order further to place the city "in proper state of defence" against the dangers of English hostility, the governor 27 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM ordered the removal of all houses near the fort, thus safe guarding that structure against one mode of attack at least. For their losses the owners received compensation in money or in land elsewhere. The people of New Orange, also, had to perform military service, part of which consisted in work ing on the fortifications; otherwise they had to pay a special tax. To facilitate the financial duties of the city in this respect the revenues from the excise, the weigh scales and the ferry which the provincial government had seized at the beginning of the Dutch reoccupation were again turned over to it. In December, 1673, Governor Colve issued a series of military regulations. He forbade the inhabitants' of New Orange to export provisions and commanded them to lay in a stock that would last eight months at least. Moreover, since the fortifications had nearly attained completion, a cor responding strictness must be observed in the duties of the civil and military authorities. Not only could no one enter or leave the city, except by the regular gates, but an elaborate formality had to be maintained in guarding these portals of New Orange. At drumbeat, a half hour before sundown, the militia paraded in front of the city hall. Then the burgomasters received the keys of the city from the guard at the fort and with an escort of six proceeded in state to lock the gates and assign the citizen night watch. By a similar pageant at sunrise the gates were opened and the keys restored to their keepers at the fort. For the domestic habits of the burghers this martial service must have been rather toilsome and the honor an irksome one to the burgomasters, especially on cold winter mornings. Crediting all due activity to the American tem perament it is hardly conceivable that even the present mayor of New York, with all his punctuality, would care to exchange his privilege of beginning his daily task at 9:30 or 10 o'clock for the pretentious morning and evening parade of a burgomaster at the end of the seventeenth century. 28 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM The pageant in question is thus described by Mrs. Sigourney with some words of eulogy on the burghers and their city : Lo! with the sun came forth a goodly train The portly mayor with his full guard of state. Hath aught of evil vexed their fair domain That thus its limits they perambulate, With heavy measured steps and brows of care, Counting its scattered roofs with fixed portentous stare? Behold the keys, with solemn pomp restored To one in warlike costume stoutly braced — He of yon fort the undisputed lord — Deep lines of thought are on his forehead traced, As though of Babylon, the proud command, Or hundred-gated Thebes were yielded to his hand. See here and there the buildings cluster round All to the street their cumbrous gables stretching, With square-clipped trees and snug enclosures bound — A most uncouth material for sketching — Each with its stoop from whose sequestered shade The Dutchman's evening pipe in cloudy volumes played — Yet deem them not for ridicule a theme— These worthy burghers with their spouses kind — Scorning of heartless pomp the gilded dream To deeds of peaceful industry inclined, In hospitality sincere and grave, Inflexible in truth, in simple virtue brave. Hail ! mighty city-high must be his fame Who round thy bounds at sunrise now should walk, Still wert thou lovely, whatso'er thy name, New Amsterdam, New Orange, or New York. Whether in cradle sleep on seaweed laid, Or on thine island throne in queenly power arrayed. If eulogies be tributes to the dead those just delivered upon Manhattan under Dutch rule were certainly appro priate, for the dissolution of New Orange was at hand. At the conclusion of peace between England and Holland early in 1674 New Netherland reverted to the former country and again became New York. The entry in the municipal records announcing the fact runs as follows : 29 THE PASSING OF NEW AMSTERDAM "The governor general appearing in court (of schout, burgo masters and schepens), states that he has now received . . . absolute orders from . . . their High Mighti nesses for the restitution of this province ... to His Majesty of Great Britain pursuant to the treaty of peace . . . with further orders that he return home with the garrison as soon as possible, which His Honor resolved to communicate to the court, informing them . . that if they had yet any representation to make to their High Mightinesses it would be willingly presented by His Honor." But the reqent military regime had apparently moderated the earlier enthusiasm for the Fatherland and contenting themselves with what had been done beyond the seas the magistrates simply answered : "The worshipful court hath thanked the governor." Finally we read that "on the tenth of November anno 1674, the province of New Netherland is surrendered by Governor Colve to Governor Major Edmund Andros in behalf of His Majesty of Great Britain." Thus did New Orange pass from view and with it the days of the Dutch dynasty. As a closing word it might be recalled that, although New York grew up as an English city and became the metropolis of the American nation, it has remained true to its Dutch forerunner, for when we would personify the city we call it Father Knickerbocker. Perchance the spirit of Peter Stuyvesant yet stumps along unseen amid the multitudes and guards with jealous care his "island of the hills." 30