iia ^*m& T THE DAT J MISSIONS LIBI^Y a YALE ' TJNIVER SIT Y7™ gMfflHH nnililiii»lini..iimi»ii.»i.mtinimamiiii:i«»i DOWN to The SEA By Wilfred T. Grenfell The Harvest of the Sea A Tale of Both Sides of the Atlan tic. Illustrated, 12mo, cloth, net $1.00. "Relates the life of the North Sea fishermen on the now famous Dogger Bank ; the cruel appren ticeship, the bitter life, the gal lant deeds of courage and of sea manship, the evils of drink, the work of the deep sea mission. These are real sea tales that will appeal to every one, and are told admirably." — New York Sun. ^m^^m^a^ A DISTINGUISHED VISITOR Commander Peary and Dr. Grenfell on the deck of the Rooscvcll on the former's return from the Pole Down to The Sea YARNS FROM THE LABRADOR By Wilfred T. Grenfell M.D., C.M.G. ILLUSTRATED New York Chicago Toronto Fleming H. Revell Company London agJl~£r(UsJiurgh Copyright, 1910, by FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY Permission is acknowledged to reprint these sketches from The Century, Putnam's, Leslie's, The Toronto University Student, The Congregationalist, The Outlook. New York: 158 Fifth Avenue Chicago: 80 Wabash Avenue Toronto: 25 Richmond St. W. London : 2 1 Paternoster Square Edinburgh: 100 Princes Street CONTENTS I. UNDER THE NORTHERN LIGHTS II. 'TIS DOGGED AS DOES IT . III. DANNY'S DELIVERANCE . IV. THE OPTIMIST . V. THE MATE OF THE WILD FLOWER .... VI. "CUIBONO" VII. QUEER PROBLEMS FOR A MIS SIONARY .... VIII. EVERY LITTLE HELPS IX. KINDLY HEARTS ON UNKINDLY SHORES .... X. THE SKIPPER'S YARN . XI. THERE HIS SERVANTS SERVE HIM XII. A PHYSICIAN IN THE ARCTIC XIII. FRIENDS AND FOES OF THE LABRADOR XIV. THE CLOSE OF OPEN WATER 1 1 36 66 78 96 I 12 I27HI'S3165171183 201217 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A Distinguished Visitor . . . Opposite Title The Native Eskimo— Still almost prehistoric in their customs . . . . . 14 I Have Most Faith in Unwritten Sermons . 34 The Gloomy Faces of Great Beetling Cliffs . 66 Great Masses of Ice Were Day by Day Increas ing in Size ..... 70 They Had a Good Six Hundred Pounds to Haul 80 It Was a Veritable Day of Sick Calls . . 114 A Labrador Four-in-Hand . . . .150 The Physician in the Labrador . . . 1 84 A Doctor is Unable to Specialize on this Coast . 1 92 Trusted Friends ofthe Labrador . . . 208 "Doesn't Look Exactly Like a Pleasure Yacht" 222 I. The Northern Lights. AS a country for summer holidays, Lab rador has not yet been taken seriously. Yet it attracts many scientists who visit it for its unique opportunities for special work. In the summer of 1905, Elihu Root, Secretary of State, came in search of that absolute rest which is impossible in any coun try where telephones and the other appurte nances of civilization have intruded. From several points of view, also, Labrador affords attractions offered by no other country so near at hand. The scenery of the southern coast is modified by the fact that in the glacial period the ice-cap smoothed and rounded the mountain peaks, while the cliffs are seldom five hundred feet in height. In the north, however, the mountain-tops apparently always reared their heads above the ice-stream, and 11 12 DOWN to The SEA for its high cliffs and virgin peaks the coast line is unrivaled anywhere in the world. The fact that the high land runs right out to the Atlantic seaboard does not prevent its afford ing most imposing fiords winding away among its fastnesses. For the thundering of the rest less Atlantic, the grinding masses of the polar ice, which assail its bulwarks for eight months out of twelve, and the iron frost of its terrible winters, have proved to be workmen that even its adamantine rocks have been unable to with stand. Thus there have been carved out fiords such as that of Nakvak, which runs inland for thirty miles. The cliffs on each side rise direct from the narrow gorge, which is itself only a mile in width, to an average of about two thousand feet, the deep blue water affording anchorage so close in under the cliffs that one would suppose it bottomless elsewhere. Though these rocks are the basal rocks of the earth's skeleton, and are entirely barren of trees and shrubs— or, indeed, of any fossil either, — their sternness is mitigated by the abundant carpet bedding of brilliant-colored lichens and the numerous small subarctic flora to be found up to their highest peaks. To the north of this inlet are still loftier mountains, The NORTHERN LIGHTS 13 the heights of which have not yet been meas ured, and the summits of which have never yet yielded to the foot of man. A cluster known as the "Four Peaks" has been variously estimated up to six thousand feet in height. There is no country in the world where the glories of the aurora borealis can so frequently be enjoyed. The weird "northern lights," called by the Eskimo "the spirits of the dead at play," are seen dancing in the sky on almost every clear night. The glorious red morning light, stealing over these rugged peaks, and steeping, in blood, as it were, the pinnacles of the loftiest icebergs in the world, forms a contrast with the deep blue of the ocean and the glistening white in a way that will hold the dullest spellbound. The endless stream of fantastic icebergs at all times enlivens the monotony of a boundless ocean. Though cruising in north Labrador is at present made difficult by the poor survey of the coast, it is also made delightful to the amateur sailor by the countless natural harbors, never more than a few miles apart, and by the thousands of outlying islands, which per mit almost one-fourth of the coast to be vis ited in perfectly smooth water, the great swell from the Atlantic being shouldered off by the 14 DOWN to The SEA long fringe of them that runs seaward for twenty or thirty miles. Clearly written in water-worn boulders on the mountain-sides of the now slowly rising land, and by the elevated sea-caves, with their wave-washed pillows, is the history of how the Labrador came here. These raise before the dullest mind visions of a paleocrystic sea that lapped these shores in the dim ages of the past. Hanging everywhere on almost im perceptible lodging-places on the crests and ridges of every mountain, the ice-carried errat ics forever tempt one to climb up and try to dislodge them. But generally one finds they weigh many tons, and his puny strength can not stir them the single inch necessary to send them crashing down into the valleys below. Labrador has no towns, no roads, and no policemen. Scattered along its shores one meets, during the months of open water, only the venturous fishing-vessels from the far South, manned by their wholesome crews, the stout-hearted vikings of to-day, and, beside these, the native Eskimo, still almost prehis toric in their customs, and themselves alone of sufficient interest to merit a side-show at all the recent world's exhibitions. But for the fact that trade and the gospel have gone hand THE NATIVE ESKIMO Still almost prehistoric in their customs The NORTHERN LIGHTS 15 in hand, this "flavor of the past" would have been blotted out long ago. Only around the stations of the brethren of the Moravian Church are there left any number of this inter esting people. The good Moravian brethren have acted as traders as well as preachers and teachers. By tabooing liquor and cheap gew gaws, by fair dealing, by the inculcation of simple religion, and by a paternal surveillance of morals, they have almost prevented any decrease in the number of their people in the last fifty years, during which only they have kept a census. Meanwhile the Eskimo have everywhere else virtually vanished from the coast. This is a tribute to the value of their mis sion especially unimpeachable, in view of the present-day strenuous efforts to prevent loss of life among children in our crowded cities. It has not been easy to convey to the Es kimo mind the meaning of the Oriental similes of the Bible. Thus, the Lamb of God had to be translated kotik, or "young seal." This animal, with its perfect whiteness as it lies in its cradle of ice, its gentle, helpless nature, and its pathetic, innocent eyes, is probably as apt a substitute, however, as nature offers. Yet not long ago an elderly lady, who at other 16 DOWN to The SEA times had almost a genius for what savored of idolatry, sent me in Labrador a box con taining a stuffed lamb, "that the Eskimo," after all these years, "might learn better." To the Eskimo mind, everything animate or inanimate possesses a soul. Thus, in their graves we found they invariably placed every cherished possession, that their spirits might serve the departed spirit in the same capaci ties in the life to come. There is little room for burial beneath the scanty earth in Labra dor, even if the frost would permit it. So the grave consists of upright stones, with long, flat ones laid across. These not only serve to keep the wolves from the body, but wide chinks also afford the spirits free passage in and out. I have found many graves perched upon some promontory jutting out into the sea, so that the spirit might be near its hunting- ground and again take toll from the spirits of departed seals. In a little cache at the foot of the grave are generally to be found the rem nants of the man's property. Even since Chris tianity has come among them, I have seen a modern rifle and good steel snow-knives rust ing in the grave ; and I have found pipes filled with tobacco, that those who were denied the The NORTHERN LIGHTS 17 pleasures of its enjoyment while on earth should at least have a chance given them to learn its use in the regions beyond the grave. No Puritanical forecasts of the joys of heaven trouble the Eskimo mind. The stone age is only just passing in Labra dor. But already the museums of the South are hungering for these witnesses to man's humble origin, and the most easily found graves have been ruthlessly rifled. Indeed, one man came and complained to me that an ener getic collector, of unmentionable nationality, had positively carried off the bones of his grandmother! I wished on one occasion to obtain some specimens of stone kettles, axes, knives, and other relics from some ancient graves known to me on a certain island. We had not time, however, to leave our steamer to hunt for them. Out of gratitude for ser vices rendered to them in my capacity as "Aniasuit," or "the man that has to do with pain," some of my little friends readily prom ised to seek them for me. They explained, however, that they should put something into the grave for each thing they took out. I referred them to the Moravian station, where they could purchase, at my expense, things likely to satisfy the departed spirits, as there 1 8 DOWN to The SEA was nothing they would have found valuable in my floating drug store. Now, it so happened that once, when it was the mark of an anarchist in Germany to wear a beard, the German brethren had brought out a job-lot of razors, forgetful that nature had been merciful to the Eskimo in their frigid climes, and spared them superfluous hair about their faces. So the stock was still available, and on returning in the spring I found my friends had solemnly deposited these in the caches they had robbed. The idea of the hoary spirits of their ancestors practising the noble art, in the night watches, on these awful head lands, with inferior razors, appealed to other than the religious sense in us. But the minds of all men are more or less muddled {teste Carlyle) , and the Eskimo have a singular lack of humor. As patients, these little people are most ex cellent. They have no fear of pain, and heal rapidly, a tribute, possibly, to our almost germ- less air. On one occasion, seated in a large Eskimo tubik, or tent, I was seeing the sick of a settlement which I had not visited for eight months. It came the turn of a girl of about fifteen years, who silently held up a frost-bit ten toe that needed removing. As there was The NORTHERN LIGHTS 19 a dense crowd in the tent, she insisted it should be done at once. The satisfaction of being for the moment the center of attraction was all the anesthetic she wanted. Gratitude, also, is not so uncommon in Labrador as it was in Judea. I had operated one year, in the North, on a young man with a dislocated shoulder, and had long since for gotten all about him. Some two years later a beaming Eskimo met me at the head of the companion-ladder, and produced from beneath his voluminous kossack a finely ornamented pair of boots. He soon made clear to me that he had been pursuing me all this time with this token of his gratitude, and kept pointing to the shoulder, which he could now freely use. I have known it otherwise at home with doc tors and their fees, where the patient took no unlawful trouble to see his benefactor re warded. There are in Labrador settlers and half- breeds who are ever increasing in number, while their pure-blooded brethren are vanish ing away. These, too, are an interesting peo ple, retaining many bygone superstitions and customs, some of which they have in common with all fisherfolk. Among these a large part of my practice lies. I append a sample invi- 20 DOWN to The SEA tation to pay a visit to one of them who was sick. It is an exact copy. Mr. Docker Greand Felle Battle Harbor Labrador. Please Docker i sen you this to see if you call in Sea bight when you gose down to see Mr. archbell Chubbs he in nead of you. A letter like this, however, is a compromise with their own ideas, and to me is the emblem of a better era. For among my first patients, thirteen years ago, on a lonely island, was the father of a budding family. When I called, he was sitting up on his bed, perspiration from pain pouring down his face, and the red lines of a spreading infection running up his arm from a deep poisoned wound in the hand. I showed him that his life was at stake, and that I could painlessly open the deep wound. He absolutely refused, as he had already sent a messenger to an old lady up the bay who was given to "charming." Passing the island The NORTHERN LIGHTS 21 again before I left next morning, I found he had not slept since I went away, and the old lady had not yet arrived. He again refused the knife. I did not call again at the island till the following spring, when I was not sur prised to find his "tilt" deserted and the roof fallen in. The old lady had not arrived in time, and the neighbors, in their generous way, had shared his children among them. Having no doctors of their own, they dis play no small ingenuity in devising remedies from the few resources they possess. Natur ally, certain persons are looked upon as spe cially gifted. The claims of wise women vie with those of seventh sons, but no reasonable person would dispute the priority of the sev enth son of a seventh son. "Why, bless yer, worms '11 perish in their open hands." Once, in stripping a fisherman to examine his chest, I perceived that he had a string, as of a scapular, around his neck. Knowing that he was not a Catholic, I asked him the meaning of it. "Sure, 't is a toothache-string, sir," he replied. "Sure, I never had the toothache sunce I worn un." So another, who on one occasion I found to be wearing a green ribbon round his left wrist, told me, "'T is against the bleedin', sir, if ever I be took." 7a. DOWN to The SEA There are more feet than shoes in many families in Labrador, and we are frequently called upon to amputate legs which have been frozen. Not only do the children suffer from this cause, but men and women as well. I recall a case which proves the unimportance of creed in religion. The wife of a Roman Catholic had a leg amputated, and I was called upon to supply an artificial leg. I had one in stock, and after I had given it to her I learned its history. The leg had been made for a Baptist soldier who lost a limb in the Civil War. When he died, his wife, who was a Presbyterian, kept it for a while and then gave it to an Episcopal cripple. It worked around to my mission in a devious way, and I gave it to the wife of the Roman Catholic. On one occasion, the burly skipper of a fishing crew boarded the mission ship, his head swathed in red flannel, his cheek blis tered with liniment, and his face puffed out like a blue-bag. "Toothache, Skipper Joe?" I said; "you '11 soon be all right," and I pulled down a snaky instrument from the row in the chart- house. "No, no, Doctor; I wants un charmed." "But, you know, I don't charm people, Skip- The NORTHERN LIGHTS 23 per. Nonsense, I tell you! Get out of the deck-house !" But he only stood vociferating on the deck, "No, no, Doctor; 't is only charmin' her wants." Time is precious when steam is in the boiler, so I merely replied, "Sit on that coaming, and open your mouth." He waited to see that I had dropped the forceps, and then followed my directions. Waving my hands over his head, I touched the offending molar. His mind seemed greatly relieved, and he at once proffered twenty-five cents for the benefit of the mission. Three months later, on my way south, I saw this man again. Beaming with smiles, he volun teered, "Ne'er an ache nor a pain in 'er since you charmed her, Doctor." While he was showing me the molar, still in its place, to confirm his theory, I was wondering what faith-healing really meant. On one of my winter journeys with dog team and komatik, we made a long detour to see a sick man; A snow-storm overtook us, and we arrived late at night, thoroughly tired out, at the rude tilt where our patient lay. After doing our best for the poor fellow, we stretched out our sleeping-bags on the floor 24 DOWN to The SEA preparatory to turning in, as we are in the habit of doing whenever it is desirable to have a private apartment. It was customary for our host's dogs to burrow down through the snow and sleep under the house. For there they got shelter and warmth beneath that part of the floor where the stove stood. Our dogs, having discovered their burrows, desired to share their comforts, but they could not get down to give battle except by crawling down one at a time. The result was a constant growling and barking only a few inches from our heads. Sleep seemed impossible, yet no one wished the task of digging the dogs out. It so happened that my host's seventh son was at home, and he promptly offered to charm the dogs into quietude. This he did by stand ing with his back to the wall and apparently twiddling the thumbs of his clasped hands in some peculiar way. He also muttered a few words which he would not tell me. For my part, I was so tired that I went to sleep watch ing him, and for me, at least, the charm worked. My driver also confessed he thought that it was we who were charmed; for the seventh son had faded from sight and memory while still twiddling his thumbs. The NORTHERN LIGHTS 25, Much more rational than these efforts are some of those in use at sea. The astringent liquor from the boiled scrapings of the hard wood sheave of an old block is no mean rem edy when swallowed in quantity; and the boiled gelatinous skin of a flatfish, covered with a piece of an oilskin coat, forms a really rational poultice. "Why, 't will draw yous head to yous heels, if you puts her in the right place." A salt herring, bandaged against the delicate skin of the throat, has much virtue as a count- ter-irritant ; but, like most of these humble remedies, fails in diphtheria, nor saves in the hour of peril some loved child that skilled aid might have rescued. It is often said that there is no law in Lab rador, and I have heard men profane enough to add, "Thank God!" I do not know that the facilities for obtaining satisfactory settle ments have evolved in proportion to our sense of justice and the intricacies of our methods of obtaining it. In the capacity of magistrate, I was called on once to settle the division of a property which should have left a small sum to a needy family. I found the cost of divi sion by the usual channels would have left only a zero to divide. So we appealed to 26 DOWN to The SEA equity, and forced one another to abide by it. Only last week a dispute arose about the own ership of a certain plot of land. It had been argued unsuccessfully with high words and with pike-handles. The weaker party applied for a summons. So, appointing the plot of land as the court, and daybreak as the hour, we settled the question between three disput ants in exactly fifteen minutes. This included the making of landmarks, which I erected my self. Moreover, the court was able to be back over the hills in time for breakfast, with an excellent appetite and a satisfied mind as his only judicial fees. There has been no law promulgated as yet in Labrador dealing with the infant mortality and cruelty to children. My first case of this kind involved insistence on a stepfather's as suming the responsibility for a little girl be longing to his new wife. Returning three months later to the same place, I found the man obdurate and the little girl living in a house by herself, where he merely allowed food to be sent to her. There could be no gain to the community by our deporting the man to a prison five hundred miles away in Newfoundland, nor gain to the child by for cing so unnatural a person to allow her to The NORTHERN LIGHTS 27 live with him. So the court decided to add the little girl to the crew of his steamer, and steamed away with a new kind of fee. Good, however, came out of evil, for we have since ventured on a small orphanage near one of our hospitals, and I have had the supreme pleasure of taking to its shelter more than one delightful little derelict. We cannot, however, always be Solomons, and the best-intentioned of decisions may sometimes be at fault. Thus, on one occasion a man's cow, feeding on the hillside, was found dead in the morning. It had obviously been killed by some one's dogs. As the owner went up to find the body, he saw two dogs coming away suspiciously licking their chops. These belonged to a poor neighbor of his, the guilt of whose team, I fear, was at no time in doubt. He expressed the greatest sorrow, and offered to shoot his dogs. But that would not bring the cow to life again. So, though he had no money, we decided that the cow should be cut in two, each man taking half, the offender to pay half the value of the cow to the owner, in money, as soon as he could. By the valua tion of the coast, the cow was worth only twenty dollars. I was alarmed next day to hear that my steward had bought from the 28 DOWN to The SEA aggressor six dollars' worth of meat, and that two other men had bought four dollars' worth, so that the offender was in pocket and dis tinctly encouraged to kill his neighbor's cow again, especially as his disposition of his half had left him with a fine meal of fresh beef into the bargain. The uncertainty of a fisherman's calling, and the long winter of forced inaction, when Jack Frost has our hunting-grounds in his grip, made the need of some remunerative winter work as necessary to us as a safety- valve is to a boiler. We had an excellent belt of spruce and fir trees at the bottom of our long bays, and a number of us agreed to co operate in a lumber-mill, that thus men might be helped to help themselves, rather than be forced to accept doles of free flour and mo lasses, and at the same time be robbed of their self-respect. So we purchased a boiler, engine, and saw-table, and the skipper of our coop erative vessel volunteered to bring these weighty impedimenta on his deck from St. John's. I myself was away in the North, beyond the reach of mails, when it suddenly occurred to me that the boiler weighed over three tons, and we had not chosen a spot or built a wharf on which to land it. We had The NORTHERN LIGHTS 29 merely applied for an area on which to con duct operations. But the genius of the sailor saved the situa tion. For the skipper had found a spot where he could warp his vessel alongside the rocks. He had then cut down some trees, which he had used as skids, and improvising a derrick out of his main and mizzen halyards, he had safely slipped the boiler to the beach. Others had dragged it up on another set of skids, and had built over it a massive mill-house, kneed like a capsized schooner, and calculated at a pinch to resist a bombardment. True, we had to bring fresh water a mile and a quarter without pipes, but they had sawed wood enough for this, dammed the river, and car ried the troughs on eighteen- foot stakes; and now for several years the mill has been run ning successfully. We had to learn our trade, and it has cost us much unevenly sawed board ing and at least four fingers, but, beyond that, no serious accidents ; and a little winter village has sprung up about this source of work, with a school and a mission room, and we can afford to pay for logs enough to give a win ter's diet to one hundred separate families. We have built schooners at the mill, besides other boats, and a lot of building. I am not 30 DOWN to The SEA sure in my own mind which does more to mitigate the many evils that follow in the wake of semi-starvation, our pills or our mill. The economic conditions of all places largely cut off from communication are, I presume, hampered by the fact that the supplying of the necessaries of life falls into the hands of a monopoly; so that it often happens that the poorer the people are, the higher the prices they have to pay. It is the more galling to those who wish to preach a gospel of help when they discover that these same poor peo ple find it difficult to get market value for their produce. Here is an illustration of the cash value of independence which I took the other day from the lips of as fine a toiler of the sea as ever trod a quarter-deck. The man has three sons grown up enough to help him in the fishery. After long years as a poor hook-and-line fish erman, living from hand to mouth, the boys made enough money to induce a kindly mer chant to build them a schooner on credit. The schooner, named the Olinda, cost, ready for sea, with "the bit of food aboard," as she left the narrows of their harbor for the fishery, exactly eighteen hundred dollars. "And us The NORTHERN LIGHTS 31 didn't know where us was ever goin' to see it from; and us had three sharemen with us. But us come back, sir, in three months, and sold our catch for twenty-three hundred dol lars; so that us had enough to pay our three sharemen, and pay for the schooner, and have one hundred dollars coming to us. Us still had time to go down North again and fetch the freighters us had carried down, and to catch another hundred quintals of fish. The second trip brought us in seven hundred and forty dollars. And now," he said triumph antly, "us is independent, and can buy our bit anywhere us likes ; so it will come cheaper, you see, Doctor." It stands to reason every man cannot shake off quite so easily the shackles which bind him to a particular trader. It was to help others to do what this man was able to do for himself that thirteen years ago we started a series of small cooperative stores. In many cases these have had the ef fect that we desired. The reality of a spiritual world is no stum bling-block to our people, and indeed all are more or less superstitious as to its relations to the world we now inhabit. Four winters ago an excellent trapper, Joe Michelin, living about twenty-five miles up the magnificent 32 DOWN to The SEA river on which the Grand Falls of Labrador are situated, was in much trouble. His chil dren informed him that they had seen a weird, large, hairy man crossing the little bit of open country between the alders on the river-bank and a drogue of woods on the other side of his house. A practical-minded man, he put no credence in the story until one day they ran in and told him it had just crossed the open, and they had seen it waving its hands at them from the willows. Rifle in hand, he went out, and to his intense surprise found fresh, strange tracks in the direction in which the children had told him the creature had gone. These marks sank into the ground at least six inches, where the horses that work at the mill would only have sunk two inches. The mark of the hoof was distinctly cloven, and the strides were at times no less than eight feet apart. Knowing that he would not be credited if he told this story even to his nearest neigh bor, who lived some miles away, he boarded over some of the tracks to preserve them from the weather. At night-time his dogs would often be growling and uneasy, and several times he found they had all been driven into the river during the night. He himself heard The NORTHERN LIGHTS 33 the monster walking around the house in the dark, and twice distinctly heard it tapping on the down-stairs shutter. He and his family were so thoroughly frightened that they al ways slept in the top loft of their house, with loaded revolvers and rifles beside them. The tracks became more numerous as the spring opened, and one day his boy of four teen told him that he, too, had seen the crea ture vanishing into the trees. A French- Canadian trapper, hearing of his trouble, came over to see the tracks, and was so impressed that he hauled over four bear-traps and set them in the paths. Michelin himself would sit day after day at the window, his repeating- rifle in his hand, and not leaving his position even for meals, on the off chance of a shot at his unearthly visitor. The chief wood-ranger from the big mill told me he had seen the tracks but what to say of them he did not know. No new tracks appeared for some weeks, however, and Michelin quite recovered his equanimity. The insistence on dogma has found little place on the program of the workers of our Labrador Mission. Our efforts to interpret the message we would convey are aimed rath er in the direction of endeavoring to do for 34 DOWN to The SEA our fellow-men on this coast, in every relation of life, those things which we should like them to do for us in similar circumstances. As I sit writing in the chart-house, I can read across the front of the little hospital off which we are anchored the words of a text thirty-six feet long. It was carved in solid wood by a boys' class in Boston. It reads: "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me." I have most faith in unwritten sermons. Still,; the essential elements of our faith are preached orally at times by all of us. And in this relation it has been my good fortune at times to have a cook or a deckhand equally able with myself to gather a crowd on a Sun day morning to seek God's blessing on these barren rocks. We can also believe that the noble amphitheaters that these mighty cliffs afford us are as likely to prove "Bethels" as were ever the more stately erections of the genius of man. I have seen new men made out of old ones on this very coast, new hopes engendered in the wrecks of humanity. So that once, when whispering into the ear of a dying man on board a tiny schooner, and asking him if the years since the change took place in him I HAVE MOST FAITH IN UNWRITTEN SERMONS The NORTHERN LIGHTS 35 had been testified to by his life, in the most natural way in the world he was able to an swer, "I wish you'd ask my skipper, Doctor." We have seen in our tiny hospitals the blind made to see, the lame made to walk, and the weak and fearful strengthened to face the Valley of the Shadow of Death. But the ob ject of the Labrador Mission is to help men to live, and not to die; and so to live as not merely to cumber this earth for a few more years, but to live as worthier sons of that great Father whose face we all expect one day to see. II. " Tis Dogged As Does It." THE good fore-and-aft schooner Rip pling Wave had made a most success ful run to her market, which happened this year to be in the Mediterranean. The fact that she had not left the Labrador coast till late in October was no fault of hers or the skipper's; for if there was one ocean-going skipper on the coast known to be more of a "snapper" than the rest, that man was Elijah Anderson. When the fish-planter saw Old 'Lige clewing down his hatches, and trimming the Rippling Wave for the "tri-across," he felt satisfied that if his catch lost in value by being late, it would not be the fault of a craft whose record "couldn't be beat," or of a master who was afraid to drive her. If all the tales were true, Old 'Lige had been known to clap on his topsails when other men were lacing their reef-earrings, and so he would give them the 3.6 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 37 "go-by." Many a time, by pressing her, he had got clear of one of those cyclonic storms which are the bane of the "roaring forties" in the late fall of the year. But this year easterly winds and the foggy blanket they fling over the coast had hidden the sunshine that the fishermen need to dry their catches of fish, and 'Lige had been jammed in and kept waiting for his load, long after he had hoped to be under the sunny skies of the Mediterranean. But to the Rippling Wave, as to everything else that waits, the great day had come at last. The cargo was all stowed — hatches sealed down — moorings cast off — the parting jolli fications held. She had not even to delay for a tow through the narrow gulch between two islands that had served her for a harbor, in order to wait in the roadstead for a wind that would give her slant enough to clear the off- lying shoals and reefs before dark. A spank ing nor'wester had sprung up just as Old 'Lige was ready, and, with flags flying and farewell guns banging, she had cleared with a leading wind through the narrow eastern tickle and was hull down long before dark, leaving good sea-room between her and the outermost shoals, 38 DOWN to The SEA Day after day, without exception, the wind held abaft the beam, and the miles rolled off like water from a duck's back. Had she been contesting an ocean race instead of carrying a cargo of dry cod, her record would have vied with that of the sauciest racing-machine that has ever attempted the passage from Sandy Hook to the Lizard. When in due time she hove to under the rock of Gibraltar for orders, her log showed an average of nearly ten knots an hour all through — and she had passed the 300-miles limit in one twenty-four hours, which would have shown a clean pair of heels to the aver age tramp-steamer. Ordered to Patras in Greece, she again eclipsed even her own record. She had out distanced several rivals who started before her from Labrador, and had "caught the market on the hop" — i e., fish was scarce and there fore in such demand that her cargo fetched splendid prices. When at last she started on the return jour ney to her Newfoundland home, after calling at Cadiz for a cargo of salt, no lighter-hearted, happier bunch of men ever trod a good ship's deck. To most of us, in these degenerate days of luxurious floating cities, the prospect of a 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 39 passage out across the Western Ocean in the month of December, in a 99-ton schooner, would not be dangerously exhilarating. But the viking stock is preserved in the North lands still, and these men were all Newfound land fishermen, with the genius for the sea in born, with minds and bodies inured from child hood to every mood and whim of the mysteri ous deep; even their baby hands had been taught to hold a tiller and to pull an oar. On the dangerous banks they had served their ap prenticeship, till they had learned to fear the perils that beset them no more than we land lubbers fear the dangers of our modern streets. Their finishing course had been in butting into the everlasting ice-floes from the Polar Sea in search of seals, and running home a loaded schooner among the endless reefs of the un charted, fog-ridden, ice-frequented coast of Labrador. They graduated when, adrift in a dory in thick fog in open ocean, without food or water, they had run for days, "Westward ho!" for the land, some one hundred and fifty miles under their lee; or had wandered in darkness over loose ice astray from their ves sels, away out seal-hunting on the Atlantic, till half-frozen and half -stupefied they had been picked up, only to return cheerfully to the 40 DOWN to The SEA same work again, as soon as they were thawed out. So when once again the Rippling Wave dropped the tug and braved the rollers of the wintry ocean, the fact that it was the first day of December didn't cause them even to look at the weather glass, or think of anything but the stories they would be telling of their great good fortune alongside their own firesides by Christmas Day. But man proposes and God disposes, and there was that in the womb of the future for the crew of the Rippling Wave which at that time they little reckoned of. There were lessons to be learned that will have served some of them well when they come to pass the last bar, and "meet their Pilot face to face" on the shore of the great ocean of Eternity. It is always harder to get to the westward in the North Atlantic than to "run east," for the prevailing winds are ever from southwest to west and northwest. But the Rippling Wave was a weatherly vessel, and the fact that by the middle of the month they were only in 40 west longitude and 40 north latitude did not distress her skipper — though if he would make sure now of being at home by Christ- 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 41 mas Day, he could not afford to ease the ship down for a trifle. The third Friday was a dirty day. The barometer was unaccountably low, and the heavy head sea made pressing even the Rip pling Wave to windward in the dark some what dangerous to the hands on deck, owing to the low freeboard that their heavy cargo of salt allowed them. Old 'Lige was in a gen erous mood — the success of the voyage had made him more soft-hearted over such details than these men of the sea are apt to be; and, anyhow, Friday is not an auspicious day to take chances. As the Mate went on deck for the night watch, even though an occasional star did show up in the heavens, the Skipper remarked half apologetically to him as he was putting on his oilskins, "You can heave her to till daylight, Jim, if you thinks well." After one or two seas, more curly than usual, had rolled on deck, Jim did "think well," and till midnight the hands below en joyed the leisurely motion that these handy vessels assume when jogging "head to it" in a long sea. Skipper 'Lige had just turned in, and was peacefully enjoying his well-earned beauty sleep, when he felt something touch him on 42 DOWN to The SEA the arm, from which his relaxed grip had but just dropped his favorite pipe on the locker. He started up, to find a figure in dripping oil skins bending over him. As soon as he grasped the fact that he was back in the world of realities, he realized that the Mate wanted him on deck to give an opinion as to a strange darkness that seemed to be crossing the ship's path low down over the water. Half a second was enough for him to get his head out of the hatchway, fol lowing the Mate who had scurried up before him, and his experience at once told him the truth. "Jump for your life, Jim!" he yelled; "it's a water-spout." The two men had hardly time to fall in a heap down the com panion ladder, when something struck the good ship like a mighty explosion. Over she went — shook — trembled — rose again; and then up — up — up went the cabin floor, both men being hurled against the for- 'ard bulkhead, which temporarily assumed the position the floor had occupied the moment be fore. The Rippling Wave was standing liter ally on her head, and it was a question which way she would come down. But there wasn't time to get anxious about it. Another mighty heave or two, a sudden 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 43 sickening feeling, and the two men were roll ing about in the water on the cabin floor. But the ship was evidently the right way up. "On deck !" roared the Captain, and both men were up in time to know that the crew, who had been literally drowned out for'ard, were also scrambling aft in the darkness to learn what to do next. All lights were out, arid every thing was awash, for the scuppers could scarcely drain off the water quick enough to clear the waterlogged ship of the seas that rolled over her counter, as she wallowed broad side to it in the trough of the sea. Knowledge, to be of any value, must be in tuitive on these occasions. Instinctively the Captain had rushed to the tiller. The lanyards had broken adrift, and the helm was appar ently hard up. Frantically the Skipper tried to force it over to get the ship's head, if pos sible, to the sea. Alas! the rudder was un shipped and fast jammed. The lower gud geon was off the pintail, and the trusty Rip pling Wave found herself free to put her head in just whatever direction she liked best. Somehow, it seemed that she was endowed with sense, and that she meant to stand by her Skipper. For hazily, but surely, she rounded up in time to prevent herself from filling. The 44 DOWN to The SEA men, meanwhile, had seized the axes, and, al most before 'Lige Anderson had issued his or ders, they had ventured for'ard again, to try and clear away the wreckage. They soon realized that virtually everything for'ard had gone by the board; for the solid spout water had hit the foremast about half way up, and had then broken, falling in count less tons on the devoted deck. For'ard of the middle line nothing was left. The mast, boom, gaff and sails were missing, with rig ging, ropes and everything attached. The bowsprit, jibboom, winch and paulbitts, anchors, chains, fore-companion, fore-hatch and galley were nowhere to be seen. The decks were torn open so widely that one man fell through to his thigh between two strips of planking. Much of the bulwarks and stanchions were gone, as were also both the life-boats and jolly-boat, and every drop of water that came aboard poured into the hull, threatening to engulf the ship in a few min utes. Probably what saved her was the fact that some of the torn remnants of canvas were still on deck, or rather in it, for the last of the fore-staysail was so hard driven through the open seams above the foc'sle, that the men were unable to start a rag of it, much as they 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 45 needed it to cover up some of the other yawn ing gaps. With the doggedness that characterizes such men, they had succeeded before daylight in getting out of the waterlogged cabins some nails and spare canvas, and with these they had covered over every large opening. Be low the water line the almost solid-timbered1 vessel was still apparently sound, though the stump of the foremast was unstepped, with the result that its foot, rolling round in the deck gammon, was so thumping the bilge inside that it threatened every moment to smash through the sides. There was enough left of it, however, above decks, to make it valuable for a "jury-mast," and the Mate with two volunteers climbed down into the hold and succeeded in jamming it into an upright posi tion. In that dark, rolling box, soaked through with the water swashing about in it, not know ing but that at any moment they might go down like rats in a barrel, their task required no ordinary skill and courage. But they man aged to accomplish it, fixing the foot of the mast in place with wooden stays captured from the broken rails. The rest of the crew stood to the pumps. Daylight, struggling 46 DOWN to The SEA through the murky sky, revealed a situation that looked hopeless enough. For forty-eight hours every man was at work helping to jettison the salt and every other available ounce of weight that could be dispensed with, or taking his trick at the pumps, under the stern eye and unflinching example of Skipper 'Lige. Hour after hour, without a wink of sleep or any refreshment but pieces of hard biscuit that once had been dry, they fought on with sullen strength and energy. When the galley went, every pot, pan and cooking utensil had gone by the board with it. Not a bite of food could be cooked, nor a sup of drink be heated. There was one thing, however, that these men brought to their aid. Like most Newfoundland fisher men, they were praying men. They knew that praying at such a time is no substitute for work, but they knew also that attitude counts for nothing in the sight of the Almighty, and not one of them had forgotten to "call upon the Lord in their trouble, that He would de liver them out of their distress." But at last the instinct of self-preservation began to lose its energy, as there came time to think, and they began to realize the appar- 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 47 ent futility of continuing the unequal strug gle. It must be remembered that it was the dead of winter. They were in the middle of the North Atlantic. The water was bitterly cold, and they were bruised, wet and exhausted. They were, too, far out of the winter route of trans-Atlantic liners. The chance of be ing picked up seemed infinitesimal, and it was obvious that with no boat left it was impossible to escape from the wreck. Small wonder that faith and hope began at last to fail! But all hands worked on incessantly at the pumps, and at the cargo. Hour after hour, watch relieved watch, and the clank, clank, clank of the pumps, that alone broke the mon otony of silence, was almost enough to drive men mad. They were apparently making no headway in raising the ship out of the water. They were merely keeping her afloat. But if 'Lige Anderson were to abandon hope it meant abandoning himself, and he was still sane. In the hours between the spells of the pumping, which he shared with his men — hours which he ought to have devoted to rest, — the Skipper had by no means been idle, and he was now 48 DOWN to The SEA able to hearten the rest with three discoveries he had made. First, the after half of the ship was abso lutely sound; so were her mainmast and sails. Moreover, he had been able to rig a "jury"- rudder, which more or less guided the ship. He had set to work with these as a basis to rig a jury-foremast that would carry a small sail. He had dried out the after cabin, and fortified and caulked as far as possible the fore bulkhead, to give a water-tight division from the hold. In this it was possible to get some rest. Secondly, he had found his logbook and sextant, and though the latter proved useless owing to the sun being continually invisible, it certainly was a source of hope. The last entry in the logbook on the day before the ac cident led him to the conclusion that he was about fifty miles south of the track of the ocean liners. Thirdly, from his almanac he found that there was still a forlorn chance that some steamers might still be running by the north ern route. It was difficult to make sure which way the wreck was really moving. But he could now keep her heading somehow to the west'ard, 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 49 and it was possible that she might still be worked to a position where they could expect to be sighted if such was the case. A more trivial discovery, but one that counted not a little in the hearts of his Newfoundland crew, was an old tin paintpot, with a sound bottom. This Captain 'Lige had managed to clean up, and over the tiny stove in his cabin he had been able to brew enough hot tea to serve out a drink all round. These facts he now thought good to announce to the crew ; and, heartened by the warm tea, they stood to the pumps again, as night came on, with fresh faith and energy. Slowly they edged, and worked, and drifted, as they hoped, northwards! If only they could make a hundred miles of northing their lives might yet be spared. A week had now gone by since the accident, and a settled gloom, close akin to despair, had settled upon the men. As is often the case, however, just in the nick of time a thing hap pened which, trivial as it may seem to us, meant very much to them. The sun for the first time suddenly shot out thro' the drift about mid-day, and the Skipper was able to get his bearings and tell them that, though they were farther to the westward, they had !5o DOWN to The SEA made at least thirty miles to the nor'ard also. Moreover, he was wise enough, seeing that they were rather more than holding their own, to tell off one man from each watch to keep a look-out from the mainmast head. Though nothing was seen to encourage them, yet the fact that the Skipper believed it was now likely that they would sight something, acted as a fresh charm, and for yet another four days the clank, clank, clank of the pumps maintained its even tenor. The salt was now all out of the boat, and this halved the time that each man had to work pumping. But as day after day passed and no sail was seen, and the ship ceaselessly battled with the angry waters running be tween a northwest and southwest gale, flesh and blood began to give way; nerve and muscle had been strained to the breaking point. By the fifteenth morning all faith in the pos sibility of salvation had so departed from some of the men, that they formally proposed to give up striving, and that all hands should go to the bottom together. Skipper 'Lige was at his wits' end. Violence was out of the question. No man aboard would have minded even death at his hands. His only subterfuge 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 51 was in continually pointing his sextant at the lowering clouds, in inscribing endless succes sions of figures in his book, and at last in an nouncing that he had discovered they had reached their desired goal. Having called them together, he pointed out to them on his well-thumbed chart, that they now lay exactly on the 49th parallel of latitude. A great cross that he had made on it signified the position of the ship. Exactly through this point ran many lines stretching from the Fastnet to New York, intersecting in his picture the spot that represented the ship. "Them there lines," he announced, "be the tracks o' them big steamers. They always races across, and this be the shortest way for 'em to go." It would not have required much acumen on the part of the audience to detect the fact that the lines on the paper were not as old as the discourse suggested. But men in the condition of these poor fellows are not in clined to be critical. All that was required of them was to move a handle up and down, and the Skipper had staked his all on their not questioning what he told them. They scanned his face narrowly, and saw that he seemed so hopeful that once again the poor fellows re turned to their duty at the pumps. "Now we 52 DOWN to The SEA be in the track of steamers, boys," the Skipper said, "us'll wait right here, sink or swim. Let's keep at it so long as us can stand. They sha'n't call us cowards anyhow." In all this the Mate bravely backed him up. And so again, though the response was feebler than before, the clank, clank, clank of the pumps kept on, as the plucky fellows doggedly set their hands to the work. The morning of the seventeenth day broke with a clear horizon under an oily, sullen sky. The remnant of a ship still tossed up and down, up and down, on the troubled waters. Forward the Rippling Wave looked now only like a bunch of weather-beaten boards. Hour by hour, the weary clank of the pumps alone announced that there was any life aboard, and that she was more than a mere derelict on that dreary expanse of waters. Though dispirited and half dead, not one man yet gave in. Now and again one could no longer stand to do his work, yet as soon as he had rested, the faith of the others roused him to action, and he struggled back, even if it were only to fall down at his place at the handles. It was just io a. m. when the watch at the masthead called the Skipper. "Smoke on the horizon to the east-northeast," he shouted. So 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 53 far gone were some of the men that they took no notice of the announcement; even if they heard, it seemed too wonderful to be true. But in two seconds the Skipper was aloft by the side of the watch, and shouting "Steamer coming, boys; keep her going!" Little by little the cloud, at first no larger than a man's hand, grew bigger and bigger, till the hull of a vessel was visible like a tiny speck beneath it. There was no need now to cheer on the men. The watch below was turned out to "wear" the ship, that they might, as far as possible, drive across the head of the approaching vessel. The improvised flags, long ago made ready out of bed clothing, were hoisted to the tops, and a pile of matchwood was prepared in a tar barrel on deck to make a good smoke. The excitement on board can better be im agined than described. But though their eyes were strained to the utmost, they could not make out that the stranger got the least bit nearer, and it wasn't long before 'Lige realized that no help could be expected from that quarter. For the speck grew no larger, and eventually disappeared again behind the wilderness of waters. The reaction was proportionate to the ex- 54 DOWN to The SEA hilaration, and an awful despondency fell upon all hands when their hope of safety had again sunk out of sight. The Skipper's resourcefulness was not ex hausted, however, and he spoke to the crew as if he were in the greatest spirits. "You see we'll be all right now, boys," he said. "Our reckoning be just as I told you. Us'll work a mile or two more to the nor'ard, and be home by the New Year if we aren't by Christ mas." He took care to emphasize his faith by serving out an extra and earlier dinner, so that, in spite of themselves, not a man slackened at the pumps, and the everlasting clank droned monotonously on. The afternoon was wearing away, when suddenly once again the eagle eye at the mast head spied smoke. This time it was in the western sky and 'Lige took a bigger risk. Twice as much inside planking as before was torn from the sides of the hold to enlarge the bonfire. So big grew the pile that it could scarcely be kindled without endangering the vessel. As the speck grew bigger, hope grew proportionately large, and without any word from the Skipper, the pulse rate of the pump reached a fever speed. Closer and closer came the stranger. It seemed impossible that she 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 55 should pass now without seeing them. Evi dently she was a small cargo tramp in bal last, and no doubt lightly manned. She was now almost abeam, but still she showed no signs of recognition. Possibly the only man on watch was in the wheelhouse, there being apparently no reason for a special watch. Or possibly the outlook man was smoking his pipe under some shelter from the weather. 'Lige, through his glasses, had long ago learned that there was no one on the upper bridge. That she was an endless time ap proaching seemed to him their best chance of being seen. For surely some one would be on deck to sight them before it was too late. But she passed them by like a phantom ship with a crew of dead men on board; and to this day no one on board knows why. It was getting dark, and the wind was ris ing again, with a sea making from the nor'- west. The dumb despair that had all along been a kind of opiate, allaying any fear of death, had been rudely removed by the awak ened thoughts of home, rest and safety, and by the apparent certainty of at last being res cued. The suspense as the steamer passed by had made the enfeebled men conscious of the bitterness of death, and aroused in 56 DOWN to The SEA them an emotion that was perilously near to fear. There could be no disguising the fact that the end was very near at hand. The mere pretense of work that they were now able to make was at last permitting the water to gain on the pumps; and finally the relief watch failed to stand to their work. No one was in a mood for speaking now. The Skipper him self silently strode to one of the handles the men had dropped, and commenced mechani cally to heave it up and down. Only a minute, however, did he labor alone. Without breaking the silence, the gallant Mate, whose turn it was to rest, placed himself at the other handle again, and the play at "pump ing the ship" went on. There seemed to be no hope. The night promised to be their last on earth. But they were men, and they would at least die fighting, for no man can tell what may be wrested from the fates by a dauntless faith. The horizon had already faded into the lowering sky overhead, and before the sun rose again, the long-drawn agony would be over, and the bitterness of death passed. ******* 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 57 But it was not to be. Suddenly a loud cry from for'ard for the last time stopped the pumps. Sure enough, there was a bright light away to the eastward, now and again bobbing up over the waters. It has always seemed right to Skipper 'Lige that their salvation should have come out of the East. In his own mind, so he says, he hadn't the slightest doubt, then, that all would be well. It was plain to him that the usefulness of the pumps was at an end, and that his last move in the game of life must now be played. He was always known as a silent man, but on this occasion a corpse would have heard him. The half-dead crew were on their legs in less time than it takes to write it. He had himself but recently come down from the mainmast- head, where he had been fixing fast to the crosstrees a barrel full of combustibles. Now, forcing an unlighted flare into the hands of the Mate, "To the masthead," he roared, "and light up when I do! Up the foremast!" he screamed into the ear of his third hand, above the roaring of the wind and sea, "and take this old can o' tar with yer." For'ard and aft he led the rest with their axes. All were work ing like madmen, with a strength that was like the final flare-up of a flickering lamp. Soon 58 DOWN to The SEA large pieces of wood had been torn off from the hatches, lockers, rails, bulwarks, and even the decking. They hacked it from anywhere, so long only as the pile on deck should grow in size. But even as they worked the water was steadily increasing in the hold, and every man was conscious that the Rippling Wave was sinking under them. Sometimes — it seemed for ages — the ap proaching light disappeared from view; yet the axes kept going, and the pile of wood steadily grew. To restrain the crew from setting fire to it during these apparently in terminable intervals required a nerve on the part of the Skipper that they themselves no longer possessed. But even at that moment, with death standing at their very side, they were held to an absolute obedience. Their rev erence for their indomitable Captain had long since grown into a superstitious fear. As it was, the sound of axe and lever, as once on the walls of ancient Rome, alone broke the death like silence every man maintained. Suddenly, without a moment's warning, a huge black mass rose up out of the water, towering far overhead like some fabulous monster of the sea. The right moment had arrived. So 'Lige Anderson fired his last 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 59 shot, and lit his flare. In an instant the ves sel was ablaze. Fore and aft, aloft, and on the water-line, the ship seemed one roaring mass of flames, which shot high into the heavens above her each time the waterlogged hull rolled heavily to windward. A moment later a brilliant search-light still further blind ed the men on her deck, and afforded the pleasure-seekers who were crowding to the rail of that floating palace ( for it proved to be a steamer on a trip round the world) such a scene as in their lives they are never likely to look on again. It was a scene well able to bear all the light that could be thrown upon it. For these fishermen had fought a fight worthy of the traditions of the best days of viking seamanship. The huge steamer turned to wind'ard and stopped short close to them. A loud voice called through a megaphone, "Can you hold on till morning?" There was no hesitation in giving, and no possibility of doubting, the- answer. So close were the vessels that every man heard the question, and every throat shouted back the same answer as from one man, "No, we are sinking!" The swash of the fast-gaining water, surging loudly to and fro in the hold, lent emphasis to the reply. 60 DOWN to The SEA Only the voice of Skipper 'Lige once more broke the silence. "We are played out; we can't last till daylight." Words are poor things at best, but the words that came back this time thrilled them all as words had never thrilled before. "Then stand by; we'll try for you now." The Cap tain on the bridge had no need to ask for vol unteers, though the night was black as pitch by now, and the danger of launching a boat in that rolling sea was a terrible one indeed. The steamer was a German liner from Hamburg. The perishing men were only com mon British fishermen. But there is a touch of nature that makes the whole world kin, and the gold-laced Captain bore a true sailor's heart beneath his dapper uniform. Had he listened to the dictates of his own emotions, he would himself have been the first man in the boat. In spite of his brilliant searchlight, the wreck to him looked but the after half of a vessel, as if a ship had been cut in two. Pride in the sheer brotherhood of the sea, that there still lived men that could do the things these men had done, almost led him to throw dis cretion to the winds, and share in person the welcome danger of the rescue. But wiser counsels prevailed, and the well- 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 61 trained life-saving crew that such vessels al ways carry had already arranged themselves in position by the side of the steel life-boat. There was no lack of skill, no undue haste, no shortage of tackle. But long ere the boat had reached the water, a heavy sea had swung her into the iron wall of the ship's side and smashed her to fragments. Those on the wreck had witnessed the attempt, and also the failure, and the ominous swash of the wa ter in the hold seemed louder and more threat ening than a few minutes ago. Faster the water gained on them as deeper the wreck wallowed in the seas; yet to man the pumps now was not even thought of. The last die had been cast, and, without making any con scious resolution, they simply stood by to watch the issue. The big ship had forged ahead. By the time she had regained her position, a wooden life-boat was already on its way down from the davits with the men in it. Close to wind- 'ard of the wreck the Captain manoeuvered the steamer to shorten the distance to row, if by any means he could get a boat launched and safely away. Again every movement was vis ible from the Rippling Wave. The life-boat reached the water. The port oars were out, 62 DOWN, to The SEA but before the for'ard tackle was free, a great sea drove her into the vessel's side again. The rescuing party were themselves with difficulty rescued, and their boat was a bundle of match wood. All eyes were fixed on the steamer. Could it be possible that they would be discouraged and give up? Even Skipper 'Lige expected to be hailed again, and warned that he must keep afloat till daylight. But the men on the liner were real sailors, and not the faintest idea of abandoning the attempt ever entered their heads. At sea, a thing to be done must be done — and that is the end of it. Cost is a factor that a sailor's mind doesn't trouble itself about, so long as material remains. Anx iety about what loss may be involved is a thing to be left for the minds of landsmen, and harries Jack less than it does a Wall Street millionaire. The only question with the Captain was, which boat next; as if it were a simple ques tion of which tool would best serve to com plete a job that had to be done. A light, col lapsible life-boat seemed to promise most. While the ship was again getting into posi tion, this was made ready. The men took their places in her and were almost literally dropped 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 63 over the side, as the monstrous ship lurched heavily to wind'ard. There was just one mo ment of doubt, and then arms and shoulders that knew no denial shot their frail craft clear of the ponderous iron wall. Scarcely a mo ment too soon did they reach the Rippling Wave. Her decks were little better than awash, when Skipper 'Lige, the last man to leave, tumbled over the rail into the life-boat. Even his dog had preceded him. Nor was the wreck left to be a possible water-logged derelict, to the danger of other ships. What was left of the kerosene oil was poured over her as a parting unction and then fired. Before the last man was safe aboard the steamer, however, the Rippling Wave, mantled like Elijah's chariot in "flames of fire," had paid her last tribute to the powers she had so long successfully withstood. A line fastened to a keg having been thrown over from the steamer's side, was picked up without approaching too near. With that ab sence of hurry that characterizes real cour age, the life-boat kept off (with her stern to the dangerous side of iron) until each of the rescued men had been safely hauled aboard in breeches of cloth, secured to a running tackle. Even the dog would have been saved in the 64 DOWN to The SEA same way, had he not with vain struggling worked loose from the breeches and fallen into the sea ; as it was, before getting the life boat aboard, the Captain was humane enough to peer round everywhere with his searchlight, in the hope of finding it. The rescued were stripped, bathed and fed, and snugly stowed in beds such as they had seldom even seen be fore. From the kindly passengers, more new and warm clothing poured in upon them, next day, than they had ever dreamed of possessing, and the journey to land was as remarkable to them for its luxuries as had been the past fortnight for its privations. Though Christmas Day had after all been spent on the Rippling Wave, New Year's Eve found them in the lap of luxury. At dinner in the grand saloon, to which every man was in vited, Skipper 'Lige occupied the seat of honor next the Captain. There was a general feel ing that it was a great occasion. Never be fore had the close of an old year spoken so forcibly of the fickleness of life to many of the others present. After a few seasonable and brief speeches had been made by some of the guests, the climax was reached when the Captain — who, at his own expense, had or- 'Tis DOGGED as DOES It 65 dered some dozens of champagne to be served out all 'round — in terse sailor language pro posed the toast of the evening. There were few dry eyes among those who drank "To the wives and children of the brave men it has been our good fortune to save." III. Danny's Deliverance. THE long winter was again approach ing. The short summer season was over. Ice was forming in all the inlets and coves. The great fleets of fishermen had started for their southern homes once more, and day by day the stream of white- winged schooners flitting south had been gradually getting thinner, until the very last of the stragglers had passed by. Out there in the offing, even at the distance they pass from the harbor heads, they afford us a little com pany. The deepening mantle of snow had been along, hiding on the land every vestige of the life of summer. Only the gloomy faces of great beetling cliffs tower above the snow, as if to taunt us with the reminder that we can look for little company from their bleakness. Already our tiny scattered houses are scarcely more than white hummocks rising above the 66 THE GLOOMY FACES OF GREAT BEETLING CLIFFS DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 67 steadily deepening snow, and to the careless eye, even they would fail altogether to sug gest the presence of the human life with its hopes and fears within them. The long months of the approaching winter seemed to be hover ing over us like a great cloud, hostile to every form of life. The rapidly shortening days and the boisterous winter storms seemed to be robbing us of all stir and bustle that at other times help to save from melancholy. True, the great masses of ice, borne ever southward on the ocean current, were day by day increasing in size, and in resemblance in shape to the vessels that have gone, as if they were trying their best to fill the void. They only seem, however, to deepen the feel ing of utter desolation that has overtaken us beside our fast closing highway; for they bear them but a grim resemblance, like the spectres of departed friends. It was close to Christmas, and our little mail steamer, paying us her last visit for the winter, was lying far out in the ice. Her crew was slinging out, onto the standing edge, for want of a better landing stage, such poor freight as our people's slender stock of money could buy for the winter. The rattle of her derrick, and the throb of her deck-winch, 68 DOWN to The SEA seemed, like some unpitying bell, to be tolling out the death knell of the last tie that bound us to the living world outside. The little vessel was in a hurry. Already Arctic icefloes outside were threatening to cut off her retreat to the south, so that as the chain-fall rattled out over the pulleys, heavy clouds of smoke rising from her funnel warned us she was silently gathering power to snap even this our last poor link with civilization. Still loath to be absent, as it were, from even the obsequies of a valued friend, or like the curious crowd that gathers when a funeral is in process, we, too, had driven our dogs out alongside her, and were standing looking at her iron sides rising perpendicularly from the ice. Forlorn-looking dog teams were standing by, and here a few men were half heartedly groping with a long sealing gaff in the crack between the ice and the steamer, for a truant box of cheese that in the hurry had fallen into the water and kept bobbing up and disappearing again in the slob. Suddenly a voice from the deck above called out "Hello, Doctor? There is a patient for the hospital on board?" "Is there?" I answered. "You had better throw him down or he will escape us." DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 69 "Can't you come up on deck?" came back the reply. "The companion ladder is on the other side." As I followed the steward aft into the steerage cabin I could hear the first sounds of the propellor rotating, making the ship vibrate. Hurriedly we entered the cabin with its large open space filled with tiers of iron cots, like bookshelves in some model library. It seemed at first like one vast empty grid iron. But guided by the steward, I came at last on a lump at one end of a cot, hidden from sight in a tangle of bed-clothes. Pulling back the blankets we found a wizened looking boy, small for his fourteen years. His legs were drawn up under his chin, and his one object seemed to be to hide himself from view. He would not speak to us and we had to rely entirely on the steward for his story. He had been brought aboard during the flying visit of the mail-boat to an absolutely out-of-the- world harbor some sixty miles away. They had carried him aboard, manifestly against his will, and he had lain ever since just as his bearers had deposited him, without stirring, like some terrified rabbit fascinated by a serp ent. They called him "Danny." A cursory examination revealed that his 70 DOWN to The SEA legs were paralyzed and rigidly fixed in a bent position. It was obvious he could neither walk nor stand. There could be no question of not accepting him. "How shall we get him ashore, sir?" the steward asked. "We'll carry him," I answered; "he can't be but a featherweight." And so it proved. For it was the easiest of tasks' even to descend the companion ladder over the ship's side with him in my arms rolled up in his blanket like a ball. The crowd on the ice displayed at once that generous sym pathy which characterizes all strong men. These fishermen of the North Atlantic are nothing, if not generous and brave in their strength. Ready arms received him. Not a coat on a man's back but would instantly have been given, if needed, to make easier the passage on our waiting komatik to the hos pital. Even as we called the dogs to stretch out for the journey, the mail-boat backed slowly from her cutting in the ice, and before we had climbed the bank that rises to the hospital gate, nothing was to be seen of her but a vague black cloud over the hills to the south of us. GREAT MASSES OF ICE WERE DAY BY DAY INCREASING IN SIZE DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 71 "Danny" was a Christmas present for which we had not looked. If the experiences of the mail-steamer had been new to "Danny," those in the hospital were a revelation. A snow-white bed, a snow- white nightgown, and in the morning a large bath — these were only a few of the many wonderful new things that served to fascinate the little patient. They were just as strange to him as we were, and he was as shy of them as he was of us. It was only a very rosy picture indeed of the chance that immersion in hot water would give him of once more becoming "like other boys" that induced him to submit unresistingly to this strange innova tion. The sequel justified it. The second night, though he had twenty pounds of shot fastened by stirrups to both legs, he slept in his strange surroundings soundly and happily. His cot was placed in the southeast corner of the ward, and the glorious sunshine both from above and from the white hillside fell full upon him all the day long. After only a few days it became a sort of hospital side-show to go upstairs and see a laughing boy trying to drag heavy weights on his legs up and down over pulleys. It was "Danny" endeavoring 72 DOWN to The SEA to bring back strength into his paralyzed limbs. At first massage, and still more the electric battery, evoked frightened floods of tears. Yet after a day or two the boy could have been seen laughing to himself, as he sat pounding his own wasted apologies for legs with one of the clever hardwood rolling balls, used by the Japanese soldiers for hardening the muscles. Days lengthened into weeks. But at last he greeted me one morning excitedly with, "The left leg is quite straight, Doctor." And soon after, "I can make the right one touch the bed as I lies on my back now." "Now is the time to try walking, then," I told him. "It's a fortnight since we first got you up into the wheel-chair." Alas, the thighs were still completely power less; the knees gave way at once and Danny rolled laughing onto the floor. Before we could venture to permit him to try his crutches again, we must by means of keyed splints lock those joints. But self-confidence had now given way to timidity, so that when at last he was balanced on the crutches, it was almost impossible to persuade him to let go of the bed-post. It took two of us, encouraging and DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 73 supporting him, to get him to try even a first step. At last, however, he got about quite speedily by himself, and "went visiting," as he called it, among the other patients. It is true that his thigh muscles were still powerless. With out the help of his splints and crutches he could still do nothing. So more than once a sudden crash overhead has brought some of us running unstairs to see what was broken, only to find that Danny, grown over confident, had been careless in placing his foot, and had had an immediate and ignominious fall. More than once he was lying helpless on the floor, ruefully recogniz ing he could not rise again by himself, but he acquired courage and wisdom from his very troubles, and he performed prodigies with the little strength that he possessed. The winter has passed away. The migra tory birds have already returned. A schooner has been sighted in the offing. Two polar bears have passed north across our harbor, returning, as they always do, from their long hunt on the icefloes after the young seals. Though our harbor is still closed with heavy ice, everything is indicating that in reality winter has gone. We are once again expect- 74 'DOWN to The SEA ing a visit from our little mail steamer, and anxiously awaiting the messages and many good things we expect her to bring. The crowd that will go out to meet her when next she forces her way into the ice, are already joyfully anticipating the renewing of the bonds that bind us to our brethren in the world out side. With the lapse of months, and with careful, constant effort, Danny's legs, though far from being what they were intended to be, have yet grown to be useful limbs. The scanty clothing that came with him is all long since outgrown. I should be sorry now to have to carry him up the companion ladder in my arms. He can almost walk by himself, and we anticipate the joy of seeing the boy that came under our influence helpless, able to take up his bed. It is a compensation that no dol lars can buy to be able to feel that in some measure we have been permitted to assist in this wonderful change. We have learned more than one lesson from our little patient He had lain at home many months powerless, refusing to venture forth for help, and every day losing more of the capacity for ever being able to walk. Though every day was making it more unlikely that DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 75 he would ever recover, yet it was only at length his utter misery that forced him to a decision that he would accept the remedy. It involved the effort of leaving home ; of leaving all that he had ever known in life, and of venturing out into an utterly strange place among abso lute strangers. Yet, once again, when the steamer came at last, and the moment arrived for setting out, faith failed, and but for those who loved him truly, he would still be para lyzed and useless. But with the effort has come its reward. Though still he cannot walk without outside help, yet when he falls he doesn't remain lying down now. He knows well enough that the Doctor will not say angrily, "Now that you've let yourself fall down, you just lie where you are ; in future I'll have nothing more to do with you!" On the contrary, he knows that we are glad to see him trying. Taking warning from the fall, he gets up again, like the "man after God's own heart," and tries to do better another time. Driving last month along a frozen river, our path took us through thick forests of sprutse and fir. My little pet spaniel, joyful in the glorious weather, was all day gleefully jump ing around the komatik. Suddenly I heard 76 DOWN to The SEA his loud cry of pain, evidently from the woods on the right of us. Hitching the dogs to a stump, we started off in the direction of the sound, and soon found the dog. He had wandered off on his own account, leaving the right road for the pleasure of hunting rabbits. A delicious scent issuing from a cave covered with boughs attracted him in. Even as he crossed the doorway there was a loud snap, and he was fast caught in the cruel teeth of an iron trap. It was a lynx house of a neighboring trapper. The pain, the reward of his own wrong doing, served only to make him wild with anger and fear. Viciously he drove his teeth through the hand of my good driver who had arrived before me, and had good-naturedly tried to relieve him. It was the hardest thing to get him to allow us to set him free at all, and when at last he was freed, he immediately fled and disappeared from sight. Following his track, I found him outside the wood on the ice. I called him to come that I might perhaps bathe the leg and relieve the suffering. But he fled from me as he had never done before. Could it be possible that he attributed the pain, which he had so fool ishly brought on himself, to us ? Truly he did. DANNY'S DELIVERANCE 77 He misinterpreted the love which had had to hurt him in trying to set him free, and acted as if he thought it would give us pleasure to make him suffer more. Instead of coming to us he fled away. For many days he wandered in the woods. At last, when almost given up as lost, emaciated and forlorn, he reached home just in time to save his life. Are these not parables from life? What does God want but "willingness" and "trust." Willingness to put ourselves in His hands, then He will make us "able to walk." Absolute trust in all His dealings with us — then He can teach us to interpret even apparent adversity aright. IV. The Optimist. IT was the depth of winter. Everywhere all was frozen, and the snow lay deep on the ground. I was fifteen miles from our little hospital and it was necessary that I should be back before night. The wards were so crowded that we had been obliged to even tres pass on the nurse's little sitting-room at our diminutive Orphanage to accommodate two little lads with tubercular joints. The strength of our one trained nurse was taxed to the ut most: she had four patients recovering from abdominal operations, one young fellow with a knee-joint we had been forced to open, and enough to do for the rest to keep half-a- dozen nurses busy, if we lived in civilized parts. I had left the hospital that morning only at the very earnest request of a deputation from the most northern harbor in the country, to 78 The OPTIMIST 79 see a woman who appeared to be dying of hemorrhage. Before starting I had insisted on a promise to bring me back the same evening with a dog team, for my own dogs were away to the south with my colleague. We had not covered half the distance before I realized the prospects were very small of the poor half-fed beasts that were hauling me be ing able to cover the ground again that day. They were doubly handicapped by having to haul two men besides myself, for the nine dogs belonged to different owners, and they would not travel without the guidance of the particu lar voices they knew to stimulate them. They had a good six hundred pounds to haul over hills and valleys and rivers and bays, a heavy burden and a hard road at the best of times. And the dogs were enfeebled by poor feed ing, for there had been a scarcity of offal, saved from the fish, and caplin, usually pre served for dog food. Corn meal, too, was ex pensive, and even at best, it is a poor substitute for fats and meat for the food of working dogs. It was partly an errand of mercy. The harbor is a deep, narrow ravine be tween the mainland and a large island, from the northern point of which the towering head land projects into the polar current. During 80 DOWN to The SEA the summer a furious tide rushes through this weird cleft, or tickle, in the cliffs, and in spring and fall huge pans of northern floe ice are swept to and fro jostling and smashing one another against the unyielding ice-worn walls on either side. The shoal ground outside, where the fish swarm, causes a thundering surf, ceaselessly smashing into the cliff faces. The whole is a very battle of Titans. The land around has long since been de nuded of trees and bushes for firewood for the many fishermen who frequent the harbor in summer. For the choice of a home by a codfish is not made by carpet-knight stand ards, nor is a Newfoundland fisherman, seek ing a living, to be deterred by trifles. Many a splendid voyage of fish has been killed among these jagged rocks and dangerous waters. The harvest of the sea here, as elsewhere, has to be wrested from a reluctant environment. Naked and forbidden this spot is in the sum mer months; but in winter all is different. Ocean, straits and tickle are alike held in the resistless grip of the silvery King of Winter. The boiling cleft is silent as death, and its broken waters are a fine hard road for our selves and our carriages. The precipitous faces of the cliffs are hung with the most ex- *wT •*.-":-$-Jw „3S-„.No sooner was she anchored than the skipper came hurrying up to the doctor in charge. "What is the matter, skipper, that you are in such a hurry?" "Well, Doctor, there is smallpox in our har bour, and you are wanted at once." "Smallpox ! How did that get there ?" "Oh, it corned in a schooner from Quebec, and now my Johnny is down with it, and they says as two men on schooners has got it from her also." Any sane person would admit it was worth while going down to that harbour, seizing that schooner, towing her away into a deserted bay, where she could do no harm, and throw ing the infection, as far as possible, into the sea, because we were dealing with an organic poison. No one would suggest leaving such 212 DOWN to The SEA a vessel to scatter her deadly influence and then content oneself with trying to convert "back to health" the victims. The damage and loss was so obvious and the cause of the damage was so traceable that when we had finally burned everything that we suspected as dangerous, we considered that our treat ment was strictly scientific, and it received universal commendation. And had we been able to prove that the owner of that vessel knew of the poison he was sending down to us on board it we would have gone for him for murder, for seventy-one fishermen died of it. A few weeks later, a quiet, elderly, white- haired fisherman, who had an invalid wife de pendent on him, was suddenly landed at the same hospital from a vessel. "What's the matter with John? It must be something very bad that has brought him here on a stretcher in the middle of the fish ing season." "Well, Doctor, he has broken his leg." "Broke his leg ! How on earth did he come to do that?" "Well, you see, a schooner corned in, Doc tor, with a drop of the drink aboard, and Pat Grady got taking some, and he knocked the FRIENDS and FOES 213 old man over the stage-head. No, he ain't a fighting man, but the liquor made a very devil of him." This meant, in a man of over seventy years, nearly twelve months before he would walk again, and cost him the loss of at least one fishing season. I knew what it meant to his wife. Was it fanatical and unscientific to hasten, as we did, to the harbour, to seize on the sup ply of alcohol in the schooner, to carry it to a place where no man dwelt, and tip the infec tion into the ocean? In this case, the poison was a chemical one. In the first case, we had no wish to punish the dangerous vessel, for the harm was done in ignorance ; in the second case, our blood was boiling, for the beast that was doing it was doing it for dollars only, blood-stained dol lars, and, moreover, he had not the humanity to say he was sorry. The dangerous subtlety of the thing makes one hate it the more, for it comes ever in the guise of a good friend. The tempter, with the idiotic laugh of the stale joker, calls it "a drop of the good craythur," glibly plagiarising the old lie, "It does no one any harm." And so it makes it hard for the modest, retiring 214 DOWN to The SEA nature of a simple young fisherman to appear ostentatious and unfriendly by refusing "just a little drop." Thus I have seen them buy it, and, alas, also learn to want it — at any price. Night was closing in as I lay at anchor one November evening in the harbour of one of these charming little fishing villages. I was just going below to turn in when I heard the bump of a boat alongside, and I saw a woman alone climbing up the companion ladder. "Can I go below, Doctor? I want to speak to you alone." "Why, certainly come along down. What is the trouble?" "It's my Willie what's brought me here to see you. You knows him. The men says as some one is stealing their fish what is drying on their 'flakes,' and they be threatening to do dreadful things if they catches un." "What has that got to do with your Willie? I am sure he would never steal a pin's head." "No, no, t'ank God. My boy never give me a day's trouble in his life. There never was no tievin' here. But, Doctor," and she leaned over to whisper in my ear, for fear the very walls should hear, "my Willie have come home with liquor on him on times of late. I knows he have nothing to pay for it. I corned FRIENDS and FOES 215 alone, Doctor, and in the night, for fear the men should suspicion me. You will help me, won't you, Doctor?" and she broke down and cried bitterly. I comforted her as well as I could and then sent her ashore. While I listened to the plash of her oars, as that gentle mother rowed ashore alone in the darkness, I felt as I felt before, that this liquor is ten times more dangerous even than small pox, for it damns the body and the soul as well. Last year I seized from an illicit saloon quite a large consignment. In it was a large barrel of rum which I had rolled out on the end of our wharf. There was a group of fishermen standing there, and all were wonder ing what I was going to do. I wished to preach a sermon to them on what I considered the fitting and most sensible disposal of this chemical poison. It was impossible for me to suggest as a scientist, or, let me say, as a physiologist, or as a rational human being, much less as a follower of Christ, that this stuff should be poured down the throats of men. No, no, we knew better than that. We borrowed an axe from one of the group, and smashing in the head of the barrel, let it run 216 DOWN to The SEA out into the ocean. Was that unscientific or fanatical, in view of what we knew about it? Wasn't that the best way of regulating the liquor traffic among us where all knew it was a matter of life and death to many of us? XIV. The Close of Open Water. ONCE more we are landsmen. Once more our six short months afloat is over and the little Strathcona is once again safely tied alongside the wharf, the planking of which is already covered with the snow of approaching winter. As we passed into this, our last harbor be tween the two great towering cliffs overhang ing the narrow entrance, and as the Capital City opened out all round us, leaving us right in its busy midst, we seemed suddenly shut off as it were by closed gates from the restless life beyond, from the field of activities which till a moment ago had been absorbing all our interests. We seemed to have suddenly reached the horizon, and passed directly into a new life, for into this fair harbor no rough seas can reach. There are no rocks to fear — no shoals to shun — the anchor once down in 217 218 DOWN to The SEA this harbor we no longer fear that our little vessel will drift from her moorings in the hours of darkness and sleep. Once lowered it will hold where you left it, till you weigh it again yourself on the way to some new field of labor. A sense of tension relieved comes over one, and for a brief while thankfulness for rest. But almost at once a new feeling chases this away and one's mind flies back in review over the experiences of the past. What a new light seems to be thrown on the relative importance of things outside "the narrows." There grad ually creeps into one's reverie the shadow of a desire, in spite of the rest and peace, that some of the opportunities might come back just once more. But the iron mooring chains are fast to the great gump heads of the wharf — the sails are already unreeved — the ship dismantled^-the very funnel covered in. The last mile stone is passed — the last chapter closed. What now is the live issue? It has been suggested that we should ask His Excellency the Governor, viceroy of the King, to inspect the little ship. But when at length I put it to our good skipper, he pro tested, as I had half expected. "She looks too The CLOSE of OPEN WATER 219 much as if she had been through a mill, Doc tor. She will look better after we have painted her in the spring." In truth there was no denying it, for she looked as if she had just come out of battle. The topmasts had been struck for the late gale, and the dainty rigging we sailed out with had been stripped off and stowed. Our ragged remnant of a flag fluttered now from an im promptu staff, which, lashed into the large top gallant iron, looked lost and forlorn. The masts were grimy with smoke, and weathered and salted with the sea spray. For the con tinuance of heavy easterly weather had given the men no chance to scrape down during the voyage home. As for her deck houses, the varnish, where any was left, had assumed the color of skimmed milk from the continued driving sleet and spume. Up to two feet above the level of the rails most of it had been scraped off bodily by the heavy deck loads of pine wood which we had been carrying out of the bays to the hospitals, as our last contribu tion toward their winter comfort. The paint on her sides and bulwarks had paid such trib ute to the sterns of countless fishing boats alongside that the once shiny black surface was mottled like a pane of frosted glass — 220 DOWN to The SEA while below the water line — well, even there we would like to go over her on dock our selves before others saw her. For we had struck twice on a nasty day in the late fall when we tried to navigate a part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the way to the new Ca nadian hospital, a piece of coast that was new to all of us. She had, in fact, entered her last port like a man cut off without a moment's warning: thus she certainly was not, as some would say, ready for inspection. But as I stood on the wharf, running my eye over her familiar lines, to me endeared by so many happy days together, there was a sort of feeling that I would not have it otherwise. For she looked like a workman right from his field of labor. Her very toil-worn features spoke of things accomplished, and afforded some scant solace for the regrets that oppor tunities had gone by. I could see again as I looked at her the thou- sarids of miles of coast she had carried us along — the record of over a thousand folk that had sought and found help aboard her this summer — the score of poor souls for whom we could do nothing but carry them, sheltered in her snug cabin, to the larger hos pitals where they could be better attended The CLOSE of OPEN WATER 221 than by us at sea. I remembered visitors and helpers whom she had faithfully carried, and who were now scattered where they could tell of the needs of our folks, and bring them better help in years to come. I remembered the ministers and travelers that had been lent a hand as they pushed their way up and down our coast — the Women and children and aged persons that she had carried up the long bays to their winter home, and to whom she had saved the suffering of the long exposure in small and open boats. One remembered the libraries she had distributed all along this bookless coast line, the children picked up and carried to the shelter of the Orphanage, the casks of food and drugs for men and dogs, placed at known rendezvous along the line of water travel, making the long dog journeys possible. How often had her now boarded-up windows lighted up her cabin for a floating Court of Justice in lonely places where, even if the judgments arrived at had been rather equitable than legal, yet disputes had been ended, wrong-doing punished, and the weak had been time and again helped to get right done them. One remembered how she had been a terror to certain evil-doers and more especially to 222 DOWN to The SEA those wretches whose greed for sordid gain leads them to defy the laws of God and man, as they sell illicitly the poisonous drinks with which they lure brave men and true to their ruin. On a truck on the wharf beside me, even now, on its way to the police station, lay a consignment that our little ship on one of her raiding expeditions had saved from doing the damage it was capable of. How like a confiscated bomb-shell it looked. And one re membered pleasantly the comment of a fisher man friend on this, one of the most vital of her missionary efforts, at one specially trouble some settlement : "Bedad, if the mission ship goes on like this long we won't be able to kape an ould bottle in the house to put a drop of ile in." Again I could see her saving from destruc tion a helpless schooner abandoned by her crew and fast beating to pieces on a lee shore. I could see her cabin loaded with sacks of warm clothing for use in districts where dire pov erty from failure in the fishing, or possible accident in their perilous work had left de fenseless women and children to face the com ing cold of winter unprotected, and among those who had benefited in this way were the crews of half a dozen unfortunate schooners, DOESN'T LOOK EXACTLY LIKE A PLEASURE YACHT The CLOSE of OPEN WATER 223 wrecked in the heavy equinoctial gale of last September. And beyond all the physical aid that had been rendered, one remembered the many sor rowful hearts to which she had carried mes sages of comfort and cheer. To some dying she had brought the joyful view of the realities of life beyond, and to some stricken hearts bereft of the hand they looked to for protec tion, she had brought with material help the ray of hope which God permits the hand of a brother to carry as possibly its most precious burden. The skipper, who had come to the rail to insert a fender between the streak of the wharf shores, noticed that I was still examining the ship, and interrupted my reverie. "Doesn't look exactly like a pleasure yacht, Doctor, does she?" "Indeed she doesn't, skipper," and I almost added, "thank God." For it is some years since I have had time to seek pleasure in that way. Somehow the idea of the mission steamer being a "pleasure yacht" grated on one's nerves. A "mere pleasure yacht" was in my mind, and rose to my lips too. For though some might not think of it, the true following of the Master makes men utilitarian. 224 DOWN to The SEA His servants must "hustle" in this busy world, as do the servants of His enemy, a truth the middle ages did not appear to know. The Master's followers must, have strong reasons to give themselves when they can afford to seek their pleasure as others do. Out of this very port she had sailed just six months ago, not knowing what she might be called upon to do or to face, before she could hope to get back to her haven of rest again. She had started with a high purpose, anxious to serve God by serving His brethren, seeking the joy which can only be won in one way. The same joy which the Lord has promised that His faithful children shall share with Him hereafter. The joy of toil here, and toil- worn rest hereafter. "The blessing of heaven is perfect rest, but the blessing of earth is toil." Our ship had stood forth a tiny speck in the great ocean, a thing that man's mind might well despise as ill calculated to achieve service of any value to the King of Kings. Pre sumptuous it had often seemed even to us, as we thought of the great work to be done — of the uncharted shore, the countless delays, the thousands of scattered craft, the short season, the strong passions and the great temptations of the men that we purposed to try and win. The CLOSE of OPEN WATER 22$ Moreover now, as the incidents of the sum mer flitted in review before my mind, I could not but remember that twice we had struck rocks, once had been all but overwhelmed in a storm, several times had been astray in fogs, twice had broken down and for want of power had been ourselves forced to seek help and to lose time undergoing repairs. It seemed a poor record. Just at this moment the wake of a ferry tug rocked the Strathcona, and the bump she gave the wharf called me back to the world of realities abruptly. After all she still lay there. A stout little steamer full of capabilities, ready and waiting for fresh responsibilities. The very bump called to remembrance the familiar saying of an old friend : "Look up, not down, Look forward, not back, Look out, not in. Lend a hand." The sluggish schooner in which we first sailed with one doctor, only enabling us to spend three months out of the twelve on the coast, had vanished, till now even in winter, in their distant stations in far off Labrador, at the time when all possible help from out side is cut off, are three doctors and three 226 DOWN to The SEA trained nurses, and many other agencies, all proclaiming with splints and bandages, with remunerative work, and cheaper flour, with good books and with simple toys, and in other ways, what God can do in spite of the blun dering workmen. I fancied I could see written round the now silenced funnel the words of a familiar hymn : "Only an armour bearer, yet may I stand, Ready to follow at the King's command." God grant that when I come up for inspec tion, when my voyage is over, I may not fear the verdict. May the log-book record many a brother helped, and saved. For though He will see — as see He will — the dints in the planking and the scratches on the paint and spars — yes, even if they speak to Him while they remind us of the sorry contact with rock and shoal — still we have confidence to be lieve that there will be nothing to dread from Him. "Yes, Yes, Skipper : God bless the old ship. Let her be inspected, I say, just as she is." THE END. 3 9002