Published by the Cumberland Gap Hotel and Park Co. Harrogate, Tenn. j8g2 doctors Published by the Cumberland Gap Hotel and Park Co. Harrogate, Tenn. l8()2 Copyright, 1892, by Allan McLanb Hamilton. No. odrcn(s';^LCC\\ fl A Gd^^ i^'T^^^ celebration of the discovery of America was over, and all that existed to remind one of the merry-making of a confused week were the torn and stained banners, the bedraggled decorations, and the memories of crowds, noise, smoke, and bubbling patriotism. The last Italian cavalier in the procession had hung up his uni form for another year, and returned to the neglected chestnut-stand; the tired New Jersey bicyclist had finished oiling his steely steed in the bam, and the Board of Aldermen were getting in their bills. The great show of 1892 had been a success in every way, and had done the people exceeding good, so that they were not — excepting a few who had gone to the Lenas Lyceum dinner — in need of medi cine, or in the mood for doctors. In view of this condition of affairs, it was but natural that the members of a hard-working profession should take their " day off" — and so they did. Nearly a fortnight before a number of invitations like the following had been sent : My dear Doctor: I have secured a special train, and invited a few medical friends to go down to Cumberland Gap for the purpose of a short outing in the Tennessee mountains. The train will leave on Saturday afternoon, Oct. 15, reaching Harrogate the next night, and returning to arrive in New -York the following Friday. I sincerely hope you can go, and beg that you will reply at your earliest convenience. Yours very truly. It was but natural that physic should be thrown to the dogs, and on the afternoon of Saturday, October 15, a goodly crowd of medi cal gentlemen boarded the hotel-car " Celtic " at Jersey City. There was no intention upon the part of the secretary of the Cumber- A DOCTOR S PILGRIMAGE. land Gap Park Company, Mr. Doe,^a peaceable alderman of Elizabeth, New Jersey, — who was directed to provide a car, to get one whose name suggested free fights or hilarious conviviality, for he knew that the gentlemen accepting the president's invitation were among the most quiet and dignified of their kind, although their environment was not always the best. At least two of the party came from New Haven, where Yale College has the entire monopoly of the town in " rushing," and the privilege of making every and all kinds of noise which seems to be inseparable from higher education, while another was at the head of a most exem plary and well-ordered institution at Flushing for the care of per sons who, as a rule, do not know enough to keep quiet. But if there had been any doubt as to the character of the party, it was settled by the advent of the gentleman whom we will call " The Reminiscent One," and the staid young medical man with an Irish name, who might have daily kissed the blarney stone, so sweet were his disposition and manners. And now we are ofi". The engine, feeling the important load it is drawing, snorts impatiently, and the engineer, possessed with the idea that a lot of doctors are after him, pulls open the throttle, and the train ofthe " Royal Blue Line" must have appeared to the wonder ing eyes of the patient cows who clipped and chewed the sparse fall herbage in the New Jersey fields, as a flash of lightning. A Pullman hotel-car has every convenience, and this one was es pecially adapted to the needs of its medical occupants, for a drawing- room had been converted into a pharmacy, which, however, was rarely used, and though this device had been thought a necessity as the train ran through at least three prohibition States, and there was a danger of some of the party being summarily removed from the cars heavily ironed, fortunately no accident occurred, as at din ner the doctors to a man drank each other's health in flowing goblets "A Pullman Hotel-Car has Every Convenience." A doctor's pilgrimage. 7 of milk and mineral water with impunity. The cares of practice and college duties had kept at home, much to the regret of the host, several who had accepted ; yet in one way this acted to the ad vantage of others whose physical peculiarities prevented them from entering and enjoying as they should the upper berths. One of these gentlemen was found writing a telegram of reassurance to his friends at home, and he afterward enjoyed the sleep that only a Knickerbocker can. This provision of a lower berth for each per son lessened the chances of conviction the next morning, for at least two of the party indulged in unrestricted and sonorous musical ex ercises during the night, which every one repudiated. ^'pHE morning of the sixteenth was clear and beautiful, and we \L^ awoke to find that a new-comer had boarded the train at Washington at midnight, an hour which fortunately enabled him to escape the horde of patients who, of course, were quite ignorant of his departure, and to leave the national seat of government in a demoralized state by reason of the loss of one of its most important medical heads. Our breakfast was eaten as we passed through the picturesque Shenandoah Valley, made famous by some of the most spirited fighting during the war, and by the gallant Sheridan. But little remains to indicate that blue-coated cavalrymen charged down this beautiful valley ; but an aged negro, who recited a pathetic story of his separation from an old mother, whom he subsequently met in a most unexpected and dramatic manner in Ohio many years after, pointed out the corner of the shabby depot at Radford, where the shells from Averill's battery had removed a large quan tity of brick-work. At Buena Vista, which we passed early in the morning, began a series of deserted " boom " towns — relics of the excitement of two years ago. These are scattered along the line of the railroad, and it is no unusual sight to find the hillsides and valleys laid out with regular streets, many of which are overgrown with grass, while lamp-posts rear Fate oi a Spy — 1863. A DOCTOR'S pilgrimage. 9 themselves out of the rank vegetation. Substantial brick stores with boarded windows, tenantless hotels, a jail for criminals, who even tually found nothing to steal, and deserted land-offices, whose oc cupants have long since gone to other regions, leaving these lonely places like jackals who have finally picked clean the shiny bones of their prey, are features of the country. These towns extend nearly two hundred miles south, and only a few have survived the depression which is largely due to the Baring failure and the les sened demand for Southern iron. Roanoke is the largest of those that have outlived the boom, and presents a scene of busy prosperity ; while at Salem and Radford, perhaps, in a few years when the present reaction is over, we shall again hear in the land the voice of the auctioneer selling " comer lots." ^^BOUT eleven o'clock we crossed the superb iron bridge at /CV East Radford, which is nearly two miles long, and com menced our mountain ascent, first skirting the exquisite New River, beneath palisades nearly as high as those on the Hudson, and then a vista of ever-changing glory — the autumn foliage being at its best — was spread before us. The air of the region is so clear that the most delicate tints were constantly opened up on every side, and contrasts of color never seen in the North delighted the artistic sense of all. Upon the side of the road was the broad New River, which has apparently a most eccentric habit of running uphill until it empties into the Ohio. Its tortuous course is marked by rifts and parallel strata of rocks, and everywhere are to be found numerous beautiful islands, which, in some respects, resemble those of the St. Lawrence. Along the route the train halts at odd little villages, ancient South- em watering-places, some of which are pre-revolutionary, and at TazeweU, the home of the original Colonel Carter, the traveler wfll find the finest stock and the richest crops in America, as well as much of the traditional old-time Southern hospitality. Colonel Carter, not Hopkinson Smith's creation, but a much more quaint person, is a familiar character who is as genial and kind-hearted as a child, but a veritable Tartarin in purpose and impulse, and his extraordinary actions supply all the local stories. Richlands and Graham are on the line of the route, and show the efforts of good, honest, enterprising work which has been done by the young men, who come mostly from Phfladelphia, and who have in some instances trebled the value of the capital supplied to them for disbursement. Great iron-furnaces, rolling- and saw-mills are everywhere to be seen; and at Bluefield, which is destined to become one ofthe greatest coal centers ofthe country, we find that the liberal policy of the Norfolk and Western road has done much to promote its growth. The people all have a wideawake look, and are decent and self-respecting. A doctor's pilgrimage. II Westward the road takes its way — towns become smaller, and the scenery more wild and rugged. Our party have adjourned to the back platform, and view with wonder and dehght the glorious mountains, and marvel at the engineering skill which has been shown in the building of great tunnels and trestles. As we advance into the interior the scenery becomes still wilder, and the people at the railroad stations acquire a type which is peculiar and unmis takable. Until eighteen months ago none of them had seen a raflroad, and when a daily train stopped, it was a most important occasion, people coming miles from the interior, men and women, as is the custom, riding on the same horses ; and for some months after, they would travel from one station to another, perfectly con tent to walk the ten or fifteen miles back to the place from whence they had boarded the train for the sake of the experience. Through the great Virginia and Kentucky valleys traversed by the Clinch Valley extension, and for fifty miles north and south, we find a most interesting phase of civflization, for in several regions until recently feuds had been indulged in, accounts of which at the time found their way into the sensational press. " Hatfields and McCoys," and " Turners and Howards," settled all disputes in a summary way, but, luckfly, either owing to the fact of the building of the railroad, or that extermination must come some day or other, an end has been reached. Many amusing though grim stories are told in which the carelessness in regard to hu man life figures most conspic uously. With such a large company it was quite natural that all elements should be repre sented, and after the first "^ ""^^ aH ,. , " They Lived ever in Their Science." settling-down we were con stantly surprised by some manifestation of genius, and it ap peared at an early date that our car contained at least two bota nists. One was a gentleman whose researches in a neighboring State in regard to the flora of Main street, Bridgeport, and whose papers upon the native Myristica Ligneosa have attracted universal attention. The other is the author of " Truflfles and Their Habits," 12 A doctor's pilgrimage. and " Vegetative Hebetude." The enthusiasm of these members of the party was a delightful surprise; they lived ever in their science, and wandered over the fields with intertwined arms, dis cussing new flora, and sat up until long after midnight comparing their finds. Fortunately their excursions from stations were not protracted after the locomotive had taken water and blown its whistle of recall, so our journey's end was at last reached and The, " Four Seasons " Hotel. every member turned up safely at Harrogate, where we arrived at nine o'clock Sunday night and found the genial manager of the " Four Seasons " Hotel, Mr. Clair, awaiting us. Ten minutes later we reached the hotel, whose cheery portals were filled with welcom ing friends, and we made what in circus parlance might be termed our '¦'¦grande entree." The spectacle of fifteen doctors descending upon the place did not cause the consternation which might have been supposed, for the force of the blow had been broken by the previous arrival of Dr. J. Fletcher Ingalls, of Chicago, and Drs. Thruston and Coleman Rogers, of LouisviUe, with two legal friends who had prepared every one for the worst. In lieu of baggage Rogers had brought a ghastly-looking box suggestive of dynamite, but upon closer in spection it was found to contain one of the most' important liquid productions of Kentucky, so for a time the dangerous effects of fa tigue from a twenty-eight hours' journey were averted. "The Ascent ofthe Pinnacle Occupied an Hour." '^'T'HE first day was spent in the inspection of the Hotel and \iy Sanatorium, and the park generally, and in the afternoon an excursion to Pinnacle Mountain was inaugurated by Mr. Clair. Two large wagons were pressed into service, as well as all the available saddle-horses, and the cavalcade, which, in point of pic turesqueness, eclipsed anything that had been seen in New -York the week before, wended its way to the top of the glorious moun tain which "rears its proud head " 2700 feet above the hotel. The Pinnacle, which is the original mountain from which Daniel Boone viewed Kentucky, is approached by a rather steep and bad road, which passes directly through the historic Cumberland Gap, where the meeting-point of the States of Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia is marked by a white stone. In view of the outrages which in past years have been committed here, one of a dark color should have been chosen, for this contiguity of the States made the place at one time very popular with a certain class of transgressors who found it very easy to evade the sheriff by the shortest kind of a promenade, which consisted in stepping from one State into the other. 14 A doctor's pilgrimage. "At length all Clambered to a Point almost in the Clouds." The ascent of the Pinnacle occupied an hour, and was attended by a series of adventures which were innocent enough, notwith standing the fact that several of the most competent surgeons in America were at hand to set broken bones. As the party ascended, a series of magnificent views burst upon them, but the first mishap occurred when the patient horses, either as a result of the stories told by the occupants of the stage, or from a sense of their own shortcomings, suddenly stopped, and though vain attempts were made to start the wagon, the load, with one exception, took to the road and finished the journey on foot. At length all clam bered to a point almost in the clouds, from which a view could be obtained comprising the Great Smoky Mountains forty miles dis tant, and points in five States. A mild breeze stirred the multi colored leaves of the grove of chestnuts which tops the mountain, and caused a liberal scattering of the modest brown nut as if to rebuke the raconteurs of the party. The earthworks and rifle-pits occupied by the Northern and Southern troops during the late war were passed on the way down, and the party returned to the " Four Seasons " in time for the banquet. By accident most of the bag gage had been left at Roanoke, two hundred miles back, and a feeling of discomfiture was everywhere manifest upon this chUHng announcement. Several gentlemen who had left impromptu speeches in their trunks were specially annoyed, and various makeshifts were resorted to for the purpose of presenting a creditable appear ance. One of the largest men in the party had four No. i8 coUars, and there was a medical bridegroom at the hotel who proffered a dress-suit, but the suggestion of some one that this ceremonial A doctor's pilgrimage. IS costume be divided up was voted down, and the original owner was left in undisputed possession, and came to the feast arrayed like Solomon in afl his glory, but it is doubtful if he enjoyed his dinner more than his less fortunate brethren. Tlie Sanatorium. However, we forgot all these little annoyances, and at eight o'clock sat down to the table, having first assembled in the great drawing-room. The "Four Seasons" orchestra was stationed in the fernery, and during the dinner made a delightful accompani ment to the merry conversation of the hungry doctors whose appe tites had been sharpened by the keen mountain air. Mr. Clair had provided the following menu : Bantiuet. tendered by the directors to THEIR MEDICAL FRIENDS. Huitres sur Coquilles. ©^tl tePtJg^. Tortue Verte au Clair. ^mOGtillaslO.. Boudins h la Villaret en Caisses. Saumon au Coquilles Homard, Sauee Riohe. Pontimes HoUandaise. Filet de Boeuf 6 la Daumont. RoJ'siC&UX. Flageolets Maitre d'Hotel. Alies de Poulet, Duglere. G\lQm^SifUe. Fetlts Pols A la Finaneiere. Petits Pains de Gitaier en Damier. Sorbet Cumberland. Perdreaux sur Canape. ^our=jo^m. Glaces Fantaisie. Petits Fours. Biscuits de Savoil. Jelly Souffle au Tokay. Gateaux Assortis. Florentins. Plfeees Monties. Fruits. Caf6. Cigars. Liqueurs. "FOUR SEASONS" HOTEL. OCTOBER 17, 1892. A doctor's pilgrimage. 17 At the table were : Dr. A. McL. Hamilton Dr. Thruston * Dr. Francis Bacon * Mr. Osborn » Dr. Kimball * Dr. C. A. Lindsley * Dr. J. W. Wright * Dr. Coleman Rogers * Mr. C. D. Phelps * Dr. N. S. Lincoln » Dr. Fletcher Ingalls * *Dr. • Dr. * Dr. * Dr. * Dr. *Dr.* Dr. * Mr. * Dr. * Mr. L. A. Sayre Barstow G. De F. Smith S. F. Morris S. O. Vanderpoel Maynard Andrew H. Smith Louis Hamilton J. W. Brannan Humphrey Mr. Bartlett After the dinner, which had been a matter of great solicitude and the day-dream of the chef and his assistants for nearly a week. Dr. Sayre arose and said : Gentlemen . '•^/T is with sincere regret that I have just learned from Dr. Ham- ^jl ilton that he is going to leave us in the morning, which is compulsory on account of business arrangements, and so that he can take the steamer for Europe next Thursday. We shall all miss his agreeable society very much, both here and on our retum trip, and we cannot allow him to depart without first expressing our sense of deep obligation to him for the great pleasure he has given us, and I think it but right that we should publicly recognize the great service that he has done to suffering humanity throughout the country in originating and carrying out this magnificent enterprise. To me it is a revelation, a marvelous revelation. I have occa sionally noticed some slight mention of it in the newspapers, but 1 8 A doctor's pilgrimage. never dreamed of anything at all like the magnitude and grandeur of what we all now see. The gorgeous scenery as we wound through the curves around the mountains, with their brilliant tints of foliage, was more bright and varied than I have ever seen in our Northern mountains, and gave a zest and a joy to the trip that I have never experienced in any other in my life. And then the most mysterious thing came; for after winding through these mountains in the darkness of the night, for about an hour catching an occasional glimpse of what seemed like a large city, in the dim distance was the " Four Seasons " Hotel, which, as we drew nearer, looked like a magnificent palace surrounded with col umns, and brilliant with glimmering electric lights, and presenting such an unexpectedly beautiful sight that I was astounded. Then, for the first time, I heard that this was our place of destination. At one moment it was out of sight, and as we turned another curve I was surprised to see a large building, and another bend of the road brought us in view of still another. I was told that one was the Sanatorium and the other Harrogate Inn. You can imagine the effect upon a mind never dreaming of com ing in contact with such a brilliant scene, and having it thrust upon one in an instant. It was the most surprising effect that I have ever experienced in my life. Then we arrived here, coming up a road of the most perfect grade, giving views of this beautiful palace from all its different angles, a most gorgeous sight with its 1600 electric lights, which seemed to multiply as we approached ; and as we entered the grand hallway, with a band of music playing, it was certainly something nearer like fairy-land than anything I had ever seen. The courteous host, Mr. Clair, the manager of the house, received us with such genial kindness as to make every one feel instantly at home, and almost as if our party owned the entire establishment. I was carried up in an elevator by a neatly uniformed darkey guide to the next floor, crossing a hall large enough for a ballroom to my parlor, which is larger than any of the private parlors in any of the Saratoga hotels I have visited, luxuriously furnished, and opening into a splendid bedroom, with a bathroom beside it that is actually larger than some of the bedrooms in any one of the most fashionable hotels in New-York. The linen, furniture, in fact all A doctor's pilgrimage. 19 the appointments of the house are as perfect as can possibly be. And the table, of which we have already seen so many good exam ples, has certainly never been surpassed at any place. I have wandered through this house even to its kitchen apart ments. Its fumishing is far superior to that of any house I have ever seen. One of the most important parts of the affair is the Sanatorium, which, though near, is so separated from this grand, magnificent palace of a hotel and its gaieties, as to be entirely secluded from it, and have no interference from its noise, thus giving the required rest to the patients. One new and important feature is a road winding up the hillside, from which there is an entrance to each floor, so that patients may be carried direct to their rooms without the use of an elevator. The construction of the building is most excellent, with its airy halls — all the rooms having windows. There are no dark recesses, no room without a beautiful external vista, giving all an expansive view of these most magnificent mountains. The nurses' apartments attached to each room give an elegance and luxury that I have never seen equaled. At the end of each floor a circular portico, inclosed in glass for a sun-bath during cold winter weather, makes a very delightful retreat for recreation. On the lower floor tiiere is a gymnasium that is equal to one of Zander's best-appointed, with all the paraphernalia requisite for giving the proper massage and manipulation to the muscles of the body, and also every variety of bath, and a fine swimming-pool thirty feet square. But I was most impressed by the cooking and kitchen arrange ments of the Sanatorium, where they mak,e their own ice to pre serve meats, etc., and everything is done in the most skilful man ner ; for I think the great secret in restoring broken-down systems due to mental anxiety, and the strain and wear incident to our ner vous, rushing mode of life, is to supply exhausted nature with a proper amount of palatable, nutritious, and easily assimilated food, so that she can restore vitality. Altogether, it seems to me to be the most perfect place for rest, recreation, and recuperation that can possibly be imagined; I think, therefore, that Dr. Hamilton, by his foresight and sagacity in selecting this beautiful, salubrious climate, with its magnificent mountain scenery, in which to establish a Sanatorium, is entitled to 3 20 A doctor's pilgrimage. great credit, and he certainly deserves much praise for the enter prise and energy with which it has been accomplished, and it ought to be a most triumphant success, as it will, as soon as it is prop erly appreciated as a resting-place between the extreme north and south; and from meteorological reports it also has the advantage of an equable and pleasant climate the year around. I, therefore, wish you all to join with me in giving our sincere and hearty thanks to Dr. Hamilton for the great pleasure he has given us, and for the great good he has done to the community and the profession, and wish him every success in his enterprise. The chairman. Dr. Hamilton, then replied as follows : Gentlemen : S^ffT is difficult for me to say anything that could adequately ^1 express my deep gratitude to you for what Dr. Sayre, as your spokesman, has said, or to impress you with my sincere plea sure in having )'^ou about me to-night. Your presence and ap proval of what you have seen is all the encouragement the most exacting person could ask, and I assure you that the hard work I have done in the past two years in addition to my professional duties in perfecting this enterprise has been amply rewarded by your indorsement. Several years ago, Mr. John Baillie, of London, with Sir Morell Mackenzie and myself, conceived the idea of establishing in Amer ica an international health resort upon a scale of great magnifi cence. The place chosen was Ocala, Florida, a most beautiful spot, and negotiations were undertaken to capitalize the scheme. But owing to the appearance of yellow fever in Florida, and the death of one of these gentlemen, the project was abandoned, and it was not untfl some time afterward that my attention was directed to eastem Tennessee by some one who had wandered over these hills, and been invigorated by the delicious air. Cumberland Gap was visited and found to be, all things con sidered, the most healthful region, in my opinion, in America. Pulmonary disease was almost unheard of, and the dry and moder ate elevation of the district was believed to be admirably suited to invalids of all kinds. Then began the laborious work of getting A doctor's pilgrimage. 21 the better class of physicians interested in its development, and this was a difficult matter, as heretofore most sanitaria had anything but a high scientific standing. The scheme, however, appealed to the medical profession so directly that a number of my good friends, both here and in London, agreed to form a Medical Advisory Board. Then money had to be raised, and ultimately nearly $2,000,000 were contributed to make Cumberland Gap Park and Harrogate what they now are. The directors, believing that the true policy was to spare no expense to secure perfection, imme diately engaged the services of two of the best-known sanitarians to lay out the grounds, inspect the plans, and suggest to the archi tect, Mr. W. B. Bigelow, of New-York, all possible sanitary improve ments and adjuncts. It is unnecessary for me to speak to you of the eminence of Dr. J. S. Billings, Surg. U. S. A., LL. D., and Colonel Geo. E. Waring, M. I. C. E., for it was these gentlemen who have given us the benefit of all their experience. Nearly' six miles of macadamized roads were built over the mountains, and about the buildings, and a complete sewerage system and water- works were established ; and then two magnifi cent buildings were erected, the " Four Seasons " Hotel and the Sanatorium, the former being one of the largest hotels in the world, with a frontage of 750 feet, which is equal to the length of three and a half blocks in New- York city. You have traversed the miles of corridor, and been through the buflding, so I need say little in the way of description, except to emphasize the fact that it is practically a small town in itself, having its own ice and electric- light plants, its printing-office, and every labor-saving appliance. You have visited the Sanatorium, have inspected its architectural features, ventilation, baths, sterilizing chambers, solaria, and gym nasium, and to-morrow I hope you will be able to visit the spring house, and the sulphur and iron springs. My associates and myself have provided this place as a dis tinctly American health resort. We have done our best, and have spared no expense or pains to provide everything that could be bought or devised by skilful artisans throughout the country. We have felt that there was no reason for Americans to wander aim lessly all over Europe for health, whfle at their very doors they could find springs equal to any, doctors who were their country men, and comforts that were, as they say in France, fin de siecle. 22 A doctor's pilgrimage. It is true we have no Royalty to cast that glamor over the amuse ments or cause the feminine flutter that attends the Prince of Wales's visits to Homburg — and so far we have not imported any German princes or Italian counts, but they doubtless can be pro vided if a demand is created. We have the advice of the best obtainable board of physicians, the best sanitary advisers, and the best architects, and we have the utmost confidence in our manager, Mr. Clair, whose popularity needs no comment. We have built this place in the most accessible part of America, in a State which is celebrated for its healthfulness, adjoining two others whose history and traditions are the most romantic in America. One of these States is noted for its superb horses — its brave men and beautiful women — its blue grass and blue blood — and I shall call upon Dr. Coleman Rogers, of Louisville, to respond to the toast of " Kentucky." Mr. Chairman: ^f^EFORE we assembled on this pleasant occasion, my good old J^ friend Dr. Sayre, a veteran himself in matters of this kind, hinted to me that he was going to call upon me to respond to a toast to our distinguished host. Dr. Hamilton, who, to judge by what we have seen here, excels as much in the r61e of an amphi- tryon as he does in his chosen calling ; and we know what he is in that. I implored Dr. Sayre to pass me severely by, assuring him that in post-prandial and other oratory I was sadly deficient. But with downright meanness and malice prepense. Dr. Sayre has car ried out his threat by having Dr. Hamilton caU on me, and forced me to say something. Lord knows the theme is inspiring enough, only I doubt my ability to do justice to it. If I was painfully con scious before of being sadly lacking in the suaviter in modo et for- titir in re, which, being freely translated, means the " gift of gab," how must I feel now in the presence of such a symposium as this, facing as I do all these learned Thebans at the festive board? However much I may feel, I cannot express it. If I could give utterance to my thoughts and express a tithe of the satisfaction this visit has afforded me, of the delight which wfll be perennial with A DOCTOR S PILGRIMAGE. 23 me, and in fitting terms tell how grateful we all are to the dispenser of all this pleasure during our sojourn in this charming place, our kind friend and confrere Dr. Hamilton, I would do so, but words fafl me. The task is too great. For myself and for all of us, I in dorse to the full all that Dr. Sayre has said. When we came down on this visit to Dr. Hamilton's bantling, or rather, I may say, to his twin bandings, — viz., the " Four Seasons " Hotel and Sanatorium, — we expected a glorious time, for we knew that Dr. Hamilton never did anything by halves. But in our fond est dreams of pleasure we were not prepared for what has been un folded to us during the past three joyous days. Ever since our arrival here, it has been nothing but a series of surprises. Our eyes have been staring in wonderment at every turn. Of course we ex pected to see a well-kept and well-appointed hotel, and a Sanato rium suited to its purposes, but away down here in the rugged hflls and amid the wilds of Tennessee, and in sight of that gap and that old wilderness road through which Daniel Boone and his little band wended their way to old Kentucky, we were not prepared to find the palaces of Aladdin which met our gaze. Were there ever such elegance and comfort as we find here, such conveniences to meet every want, such politeness from the highest to the lowest, such a boniface as Mr. Clair ? — all these on the inside ; and on the out side such air; and can the far-famed Yosemite surpass what we have witnessed in grandeur of scenery ! We cannot gfld refined gold, nor paint the Hly. Our vocabulary falls short when we at tempt to give even the faintest conception of the beauties to be found in this magnificent spot. The sick and the wefl need go no farther than Harrogate for rest and recreation. The people of the South need flock no longer to White Sulphur, to Aiken, to Ashe- vifle, to Jacksonville. This hereafter should be their Mecca. This enterprise deserves success, and wfll most certainly attain it. The beauties of Harrogate cannot long be hidden, even if we, one and all of us, do not herald them forth to our friends everywhere. When we go back home and relate what we have seen here, the half of it won't be believed, but let the doubting Thomases come down and see for themselves. All honor then be given Dr. Ham ilton and his associates fortheir foresight and public spirit in father ing and carrying out a scheme which has given this country such an hotel, and such a sanatorium, with such surroundings. 24 A doctor's pilgrimage. But as if our genial host had already not done enough to complete the pleasure of our sojourn here, and in addition show the possibili ties of this hotel, as a crowning glory to the whole, as a kind of stirrup-cup on the eve of our departure, see what he has spread before us to-night ! God be praised that we are partakers of his largess, for surely our Lucullus outshines himself to-night. Can we realize the fact that away down here, far from the madding crowd, just on the outskirts of civilization, in the mountains of Ten nessee, he gives us a feast which from start to finish, ab ovo usque ad mala, Delmonico in all his glory cannot excel. The keen regret at leaving the " Four Seasons " Hotel is softened by the reflection that it wfll not be long before we will revisit it, and again enjoy its comforts. Success to it and to all connected with it, say we, one and all. The Chairman. — Upon my right is a gentleman who comes from a part of the country and a city celebrated as one of the most advanced seats of learning in America. I mean New England and New Haven, and the name of Bacon is so closely identified with education in the East, that any utterance of its clever represen tative will be listened to with pleasant anticipation, and I therefore propose the health of Dr. Francis Bacon and New England. Dr. Bacon then responded in a witty speech, in which he referred to his approval of all that had been done, and alluded to the rhe torical talent of his fellow-townsman Dr. Lindsley, the secretary of the State Board of Health of Connecticut, who was present, and referred to a most eloquent address this gentleman had made quite recently at a dinner given by an association of undertakers. Dr. Bacon hoped that Dr. Lindsley might be induced to repeat his speech.* * Owing to the inability of the editor to get Dr. Bacon's speech, this gentle man's graceful remarks cannot be produced in their entirety, but parts of a letter since received are published with his permission : 32 High Street, New Haven, Nov. 17th, 1892. My dear Dr. Hamilton: I have been waiting to hear of your return to express to you my most appreciative thanks for your splendid hospitality, which gave to our party a week of such peculiar and exceptional pleasure. The week you se lected was, whether by happy chance or sagacious forecast, the very crown of our A doctor's pilgrimage. 25 Mr. Chairman and Fellow Guests: ifVpi Y friend Dr. Bacon puts me under great embarrassment by jjrU-*' caUing me to my feet as a "fluent speaker" and a man "of undaunted courage before any audience." I know he means well, but, aside from the domain of surgery, he is frequently subject to draw false conclusions from insufficient data. In the present instance he confessedly inferred afl that he said about me from the fact that I had recently delivered an address before a State convention of funeral directors. Since he has called my at tention to it, I think I can understand that it may be that a man peerless American autumn, and the only drawback to our complete enjoyment of it was the malign decree of destiny that bore you away untimely before it was finished. I have not even the vaguest remembrance of what I said at the banquet — ex cept a general impression that it was quite inadequate to the occasion. What I should have said is that after recovering from the first astonishment at the sight of the sumptuous " Four Seasons " Hotel with its surroundings, standing as an oasis of high civilization in the midst of the wilderness of mountains, I was im pressed, not so much with the generous splendor of all its appointments, — for that is a quality purchasable by any one who can make the necessary great out lay of capital, — as with the admirable taste and judgment which are everywhere visible in the perfect fitness, both of the hotel and Sanatorium, to their respective purposes. The latter especially won my admiration by offering not only every comfort that an exigent chronic invalid would desire to surround himself with, but also in its varied and elaborate bath-arrangements of all kinds, its ample solaria, its electrical, gymnastic, and inhalation apparatus, the most complete assemblage of remedial appliances that I have ever seen beneath one roof, either in this country or in Europe. When the value and extent of the resources of this establishment become gen erally known, they are sure to be in very wide request both by physicians and patients. The admirable climatic qualities of the great upland region in which the hotel and Sanatorium have been so wisely placed, have long been recognized by clima- tologists, and are now becoming a matter of popular knowledge. The brilliant dry atmosphere enhances the loveliness of the noble mountain landscape, and gives it an indescribable charm to one coming from the stormy north Atlantic seaboard or the chill humidity of the great lakes. I have a grateful remembrance of the effect of the climate in my own case, for after three days' sojourn in it, I left behind me for good an odious bronchial irri tation, which had harassed me for a month, and which I had fully expected to fight for the rest of the autumn and winter. Though I cannot, as you have requested, recall what I said at your delightful banquet, and though, by that fact, I am sure I said nothing worth recalling, yet you will believe me, dear Dr. Hamilton, that it was from no lack of appreciation of how great natural advantages have been seized and developed, and a sagacious plan nobly carried out in the building of this splendid establishment, to which, not only for its own deserts but for the public good, I wish an abundant success. Yours sincerely, Fr's Bacon. 26 A doctor's pilgrimage. who has practised surgery for forty years as extensively as Dr. Bacon has throughout Connecticut may have very good reasons for thinking it requires a bold man to meet a State convention of funeral directors. But, however surgeons may grow timid in the presence of undertakers, we physicians, in the practice of medicine, acquire no such fear of them, and it never occurred to me until Dr. Bacon mentioned it that I should be credited with any degree of heroism in meeting them. Indeed, I think it a trivial matter to face a company of men who never pursue a man until he is dead, as compared with the bravery necessary to suddenly stand all un prepared, as I do now, before an audience like the present — of the brightest intellects of the medical and legal professions. I know my friend Dr. Bacon always means well in all he says, but his illogical reflections lead him again to the absurd, when he suggests that I should rehearse that funereal address on the present festive occasion. While, therefore, I cannot feel grateful to my friend for the man ner of my introduction, yet I may thank him for the opportunity it gives me to express my sense of gratitude to our host for the deep delight and pleasure which I have constantly enjoyed as one of his guests — a feeling in which I know you all participate. But there is another feeling, stronger, more profound, and lasting than the mere sense of personal gratification, which I find growing within me during my brief sojourn amid these charming surroundings. It comes from a consciousness that a higher and nobler purpose than that of affording the means of mere physical pleasure is sought to be accomplished by the liberal-minded men who have undertaken this grand enterprise. The best benefactors of the human race are not those only who seek out individual instances of suffering and want, and by personal attention and pecuniary aid give temporary relief. There are also benefactors and true philanthropists in the highest sense, who, with a broader grasp of the subject of humanity, plan and devise means of benefiting large numbers of their fellow-beings. There are many directions in which philanthropy may find fruit ful exercise, but there are no fields of labor in behalf of humanity where well-directed effort is more noble, more effective, or more far-reaching in good results than when devoted to the improvement of the public health. A DOCTOR'S PILGRIMAGE. 27 Such effort is not limited to public health boards, with their too frequently unscientific and crude methods. It is always private en terprise which leads or points the way in all great undertakings, in all untrodden paths. Cumberland Gap Park presents a striking instance of such en terprise. Its broad-minded and liberal-hearted projectors have evidently an unbounded faith in the work they have undertaken. They have recognized and appreciated the unsurpassed and su perb conditions which nature has provided in this locality, and they have undertaken to make available for the sick and the feeble the exhaustless treasures of the health-giving, life-invigorating agencies so bountifully found here. The establishment of sanitaria in many places in this country and Europe marks the progress of medical science. They indicate a stage in its evolution of exceeding interest and importance. So long as mankind is heir to ills so numerous, the physician, as the curer of disease, will not be without occupation. I always had and I always shall entertain a high respect for him as a most im portant factor in promoting the happiness of his fellow-creatures. But in the future — yes, in the present, even — his vocation is mark edly modified. As the care-taker of health, he is not now, as for merly, a mere giver of drugs, and administerer of doses ; but he must be a preventer as well as curer of disease. He has both gained and lost faith in the apothecary's stock. With a more ac curate knowledge of the action and effects of medicines, he has learned better their power, and also their frequent impotency. Without wholly deserting the shelves of the druggist, he often seeks other means of relief for his patients. And so he has come to know that there are more powerful remedies than pflls and potions — that salubrious surroundings, pure air, a dry soil, an equable tempera ture, and other natural climatic conditions are in many instances more revivifying and tonic in their effects, more remedial and re storative than anything among the stores of the botanist or among the products of the chemist's laboratory. As I gazed this morning from my window, and saw the rising sun first gilding the tops of the distant mountains, and then in its glorious splendor illuminating the broad valley of the Cumberland, and as I inhaled the balmy air, fragrant with the delicious odors of 28 A doctor's pilgrimage. the surrounding forests, I felt that I was inspiring health and vigor distifled from nature's own laboratories. Cumberland Gap Park opens to the world a region from which the world has heretofore been excluded, a region in which the god dess Hygeia has uninterrupted sovereignty. It is not a mere summer resort; it is not a winter resort only; but it is a resort equally salutary all the year round, and to the natural advantages and attractions has been added this magnifi cent and palatial hostelry, of capacity for over 500 guests, and with every attention in detafl, to the most scientific sanitary construction. Not only that, but we have been shown to-day, by our distin guished host, another edifice, the Sanatorium, so called, for the reception and treatment of health-seekers who need seclusion from the excitement and bustle of hotel life, and such further aids to recovery as are only available by special provision. The Sana torium is not too far away, nor yet too near. As a hospital, it may justly be said there is not another in America better appointed with all the appliances that science and art can suggest for the benefit of invalids. Its stately and imposing appearance externally is a trustworthy guarantee of the pleasant comforts of the interior. I predict for Cumberland Gap Park, for the " Four Seasons," and for the Sanatorium a future popularity unsurpassed by any simflar institutions in this country. The Chairman. — When we left New- York I invited a gentle man, who has a mind of his own though he is brought in contact with a great many topsyturvy ones during the year, to leave his work and accompany us. It was no affront to you, gentlemen, and no reflection to introduce an alienist, for there is no one here who has even a " fixed delusion " regarding his profession. Dr. Barstow, however, is many things else. He is not only what one of my flighty patients, who is a " lady magazine " journalist, would call " an elegant conversationalist," but an authority upon sanitaria, for he is at the head of one of the best-appointed in the country, and you all know what his claims are as a botanist ; so I hope he will lay down his weed and let us hear from him. A doctor's pilgrimage. Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen . '/I /ILJ HEN I accepted the invitation of our hospitable friend, VJiVl/%' Dr. Hamflton, I had little idea, and I am sure none of us could anticipate, what a reception awaited us at Harrogate, and what a dreamland we were about to visit. The lights of Aladdin's palace could not be more dazzling than the view of the " Four Seasons " Hotel, as it burst upon our vision last night on our arri val — and to-day we have been shown the inner glories of this temple, and we have visited the Sanatorium, which to the profes sional eye eclipses even the hotel in the appropriateness of its con struction and in its marvelous beauty of finish. I thought I already knew something of sanitaria and rest cures — but it has been re served for to-day to see what perfection it is possible to attain in this direction. Unique in many of its features is this beautiful sanatorium which our host has originated. The ingenious placing of the building so that each of its three stories can be reached by a carriage drive, is of itself a novel and admirable feature. The internal structure and arrangement of the building are apparently perfect. Everything seems provided for, the baths in every variety, the gymnasium with its complete apparatus, the massage-rooms, the electric-rooms, the halls, the bedrooms, the dining-rooms, the kitchens, all fumished with every appliance for the luxurious comfort of patients as well as for their appropriate treatment. Nothing seems to have been omitted or forgotten. But above all and around all and within reach of all is this glorious atmosphere of Cumberland Gap (whose strength-giving quality we have already tested in climbing to " the Pinnacle " to day) — this soft but bracing air, which is of itself food and rest and refreshment. ' Surely, Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, we have come to an ideal place. And now, as we thank our gracious host and his coadju tors for their hospitality and kindness, let us also pay a generous tribute to the genius and skill which have conceived and completed this magnificent scheme; and let us all strive as best we may to promote the future success of the " Four Seasons " Hotel and Sanatorium of Cumberland Gap, 30 A doctor s pilgrimage. Dr. Vanderpoel's speech. Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen : '^^^HEN our party left New-York on Saturday evening, and xlAiJp^ started on our joumey south, we were all prepared to find something in the way of an hotel and sanatorium quite out of the ordinary ; but I believe you wfll all agree with me, gentlemen, when I say that what we did find, in reaUty far exceeded in gran deur, extent, and completeness of equipment any preconceived ideas we may have formed on the subject. To my mind, the principle upon which this health resort is started — namely, of separating the invalids proper from those guests who are simply in pursuit of plea sure and recreation, and still having them so adjacent that inter course between the two classes is possible and convenient, if desired — is, I say, the true one; for every one who has had any experience in health resorts knows fuU well how distressing, and oftentimes depressing, it is for nervous guests to be constantly, more or less, thrown in intimate contact with the invalid. The atmosphere becomes, so to speak, contaminated with the idea of sickness, and many a one is frequently deterred from going to such a place by just such annoyances. But here this problem has evidently been weU thought over and admirably carried out, by the erection of a sanatorium second to none in extent, stabflity of construction, or applicabflity to the purpose for which it was erected, either in this country or in Europe, as its possibUities of cure and the care of those iU embrace in their scope almost fhe entire range of medical therapeutics. For consider what we saw this morning when we made our tour of inspection, — in the first place a buflding most im posing extemaUy, and most charmingly located, and, as one of the gentlemen expressed it in referring to the view, presenting a stretch of landscape in itself quite sufficient to make one well ; and, sec ondly, an interior so admirably arranged to meet the wants and re quirements of the sick, with its complete electro-therapeutic outfit, its magnificent Russian and Turkish baths, with the facilities for douches and massage, in conjunction with which is to be found the well-appointed gymnasium for those able to avafl themselves of it un der the physician's direction. Then, too, the comfortable, snug, and weU-ventflated rooms provided for the patients, each thoroughly a doctor's pilgrimage. 31 furnished with its fireplace, and, in fact, with everything that can be required to add to the creature comforts of the inmates. When we consider this, and also that this establishment is placed in the hands of a most competent and able physician, the thought must occur to one and all of us that this is precisely the spot to send that large class of neurotic patients who require not only the proper atmo spheric influences and surroundings incident to change, but also that their treatment may be inteUigently directed by a physician who is thoroughly equipped with an armamentarium suitable to cope with their malady, and that they may not fall, as is now too fre quently the case, into the hands of the charlatan. When we con sider all this, I repeat, where can another such place be found? To me the opportunity of seeing this institution has been one not only of great pleasure but also of profit, inasmuch as I now feel prepared to refer patients of the class mentioned, intelligently, and also others requiring change, to a spot where they may recuperate un der the most delightful surroundings. And I feel confident that, were the knowledge of these facts known to the profession at large, this institution would be soon filled to its full capacity. I cannot close without tendering to the managers of this enterprise, and to Dr. Hamilton in particular, my congratulations on the spirit of enter prise that conceived this idea, and also that they then had the cour age of their convictions, as is shown in their placing such a vast amount of money in the venture. That they will meet with a full measure of deserved success is my firm conviction. Dr. S. F. Morris of New- York, being called upon, said : Mr. Chairman : •^^^HEN I met you at the ferry, on giving me instructions as ^uAU^ to finding the car, you said " the lower berths were re served for the old men." It was with some trepidation that I asked the location of my berth. Great was my satisfaction, when an up per berth was assigned me, to feel that I stfll was a young man. Later on, however, I was surprised and disappointed to find that I had been allotted a lower berth, and thus relegated to the band of 32 A DOCTORS pilgrimage. old men. The abrupt change did not disturb my night's rest, and in the morning all disappointment was forgotten in the enjoyment of the beautiful country through which we were traveling. That evening, when suddenly the " Four Seasons," with its myriads of . electric lights, came into view, the effect was like a scene from fairy land ; then was I not only surprised, but astonished. Subsequently, when I saw your magnificent hotel, with its beautiful appointments complete in all respects, and your Sanatorium so well arranged and equipped with all that was latest and best, especially its bathing arrangements and its electrical appliances, my wonder grew. In the location you have selected, in the grounds as well as the bufld ings, you have an almost ideal place, and I think I am but uttering the feelings of my companions when I say to you and your associ ates in this great undertaking, that if good wishes and kind words can make it a success it will be most successful. The Chairman. — We have here to-night two distinguished members of the large and influential famfly of Smiths, and I shall call upon Dr. Andrew H., who, though he has worked under pres sure to alleviate the sufferings of the many patients who flock to him, has, so far, not suffered from any of the consequences of any kind of " ringing in the ears.'' We shall be pleased to hear from Dr. Smith. Dr. Smith's speech. Mr. Chairman : CHOUGH there are only two of us here to-night, I believe that if one of the occasional conventions of the Smith family we read. of in the newspapers was to be held in this place, the " Four Seasons " Hotel would be large enough to hold all the dele gates without any crowding whatever. I have been more than surprised at the provisions that have been made, and the unex pected magnificence of the buildings. Perhaps I am better quali fied to speak of sanitaria than others here, for a few years ago I made a systematic tour of the health resorts east of the Mississippi, and I am certain that there is nothing to be compared with the A doctor's pilgrimage. 33 Hotel of the " Four Seasons," and the Sanatorium connected there with, in the completeness of the appointments for the comfort of invahds. I am peculiarly impressed by the perfect adaptation of the Sanatorium to the wants of the sick; by the arrangements of the baths, gymnasium, Swedish movements, solaria, and the fact that each floor opens out on to the grounds on the same level, so that each story is a ground floor. The atmosphere is peculiarly invigorating. I feel my physical self-respect increased 200 per cent, by the amount of mountain- climbing I have been able to accomplish to-day without fatigue, and which, in a less invigorating atmosphere, would probably have been impossible. It is difficult to realize, after the brilliant occasion which we have all enjoyed to-night, and partaking of the superb banquet, that such things are possible in a place that was but a few months ago little more than a wilderness. We are all very much indebted to Dr. Hamflton for arranging this very delightful excursion for us, and one of its most enjoyable features is that physicians who before have known each other but slightly, are brought into intimate relations, and form many pleasant acquain tances. I express the wish that Dr. Hamilton's voyage will be success ful, and assure him that our good wishes go with him over the ocean. The Chairman. — A few years ago, upon the occasion of the strife that to some persons suggested the possibility of another civil war, — I mean the selection of a site for the World's Fair, — a rep resentative in Congress for North Carolina gravely nominated Mid- dlesborough, Kentucky, as the most available spot in the country, and when I remind you that Middlesborough is three years old, and but five mfles from this dinner-table, you can understand the mo tives that prompted this somewhat quixotic proposition. However, I believe Chicago in its great good fortune has forgiven its lesser rivals, New-York and Middlesborough, and I am sure my distin guished friend. Dr. Fletcher Ingalls, of Chicago, wfll not permit any rancor of the past to deter him from responding to-night. I there fore propose his very good health. 34 A doctor's pilgrimage. Gentlemen: i^ff CAN heartily indorse what has been said by Dr. Sayre and ^31 others about our delightful surroundings. The earth and air and sky seem at this time to have united here to contribute to our pleasure. I was greatly surprised to find here in the mountains such a perfect hotel in all its appointments. The clear sky and pure air lull one to repose under its broad verandas, and the view ob tained from the mountain- tops fills one with admiration for the grandeur of the scenery. I have been much gratified at the thor ough equipment of the Sanatorium, which seems to offer all of the conveniences and comforts which the sick can require; and a long acquaintance with the gentleman (Dr. Maynard) who has taken charge of its medical management enables me to express the greatest confidence in the methods which will be employed for the relief of those who shall profit by the advantages which it offers. I can assure you also that patients you may send here will be treated ethically and courteously, and that everything will be done that you may desire for their well-being. Such advantages as the hotel, the Sanatorium, and these wonder ful surroundings offer, must within a short time make this a verita ble Mecca for those who desire rest and relaxation, as well as for the sick who need a comfortable home, where they may be under the constant care of an experienced physician. I only regret that our stay here must be so short, but I hope that we may again meet under these beautiful skies, and enjoy the beauty of this glorious landscape. Mr. Phelps, being called upon, said: Gentlemen : kOU have had a surfeit of the good things of life, — good speeches, magnificent scenery, pleasant surroundings, — everything that would make your visit here delightful, pleasant, and memorable ; and now, by way of variety, our good host has thought well to inflict on you something that was not good, in call ing on me to make a few remarks. a doctor's pilgrimage. 35 My feelings now remind me forcibly of those of a gendeman I had occasion to meet some time ago. I was called hurriedly to a Httle town, way up in New England, to make an examination before the national officers should come in, and the president of the insti tution, after introducing me to all his directors and friends, and tefling them explicitly the object of my being there, took me to one side and confidentially said : "I hope, Mr. Phelps, you won't say anything about what you find here, for we don't want folks to know what fools we are about the banking business." I could have made that same plea, as regards speech-making, with a good grace, had I known that I was to be called on to address you. After the pleasant, witty speeches we have listened to, after the graceful compliments to the hotel and its equipments, the courteous hospitality of the management, that has done so much for our en joyment, and all the varied phases of the beautiful surroundings here, there is very little remaining to be said. I am sure we have all enjoyed to the utmost the pleasant trip down, the delightful drives of yesterday and to-day, the appetizing climb to the Pinnacle Rock — and all these things will remain with us as a pleasant recollection of our visit to one of the most delight ful spots we have ever seen. There can be only one result to the energy and enterprise that has founded this beautiful resort, and that result is success. If whai we have heard to-night is any criterion that success is assured, it has our best wishes, and you will all join heartily with me in the toast, " Success to the ' Four Seasons.' " Short speeches were made by Drs. Thruston, J. W. Wright, and Kimbafl, and Messrs. Humphreys and Bardett. Speech of Dr. John Winters Brannan. Mr. Chairman : i^ffT has fallen to my lot this evening to be the last one to give ^3j| his impressions of this delightful place to which Dr. Hamflton has brought us. Not much, therefore, is left for me to say. I can only join in the general expression of pleasure and appreciation of afl that has been done to make our trip enjoyable. 36 a doctor's pilgrimage. I attempted to tell Dr. Hamilton this afternoon how charmed I was with the beauty of Harrogate, but he seemed to think that I had hardly been here long enough to form a fair opinion of its merits as a pleasure and health resort. He has heard enough this evening, however, to convince him that we all think ourselves qualified not only to form but to express opinions on this subject. There is but one cloud upon our happiness to-night, and per haps I should do well to follow your example in avoiding all allu sion to it. But I cannot refrain from saying how very sorry I am that Dr. Hamilton is to leave us in the morning. Two days still remain of our stay at Harrogate, and I hope that Dr. Hamflton may be persuaded to remain with us to the end, and thus make our joy complete. I ask you all to join with me in requesting him to change his plans if it is at all possible for him to do so. /|15|N Tuesday and Wednesday the time of the party was occu py/ pied in visiting the coal-mines at Middlesborough, the springs, and in riding over the Company's property, and three of the more daring, accompanied by Colonel Key, the master of cere monies, went out in search of quail and wild turkey. Unfortunately, the soil was so dry that the dogs could not get scent, and the expedition consisted simply of a tramp. Every precaution had been taken to make the sport as harmless as it is in France, and, though the dogs were not provided with shot-proof suits of mail, and no special instructions were given as to "The Party was Occupied ^j^g j^Q^jg of carrying guns and lifting them inVisiting the Coal-mines." ^^^^ ^^.^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^j^^gg ggntlemen re turned unharmed, and empty-handed. The PoweUs River Cave was visited on Tuesday, and displays of horsemanship were again presented which were exceedingly creditable. The sim ple inhabitants were quite unaware ofthe important caval cade that wound its way over the Pow- efls River road, but it would be strange if the children on the roadside did not incidentafly put out " If the Children on the Roadside did not Incidentally their tongues and Put out Their Tongues." take to the woods impressed with the distinctly professional air of the procession. The wonders of the cave were enjoyed, and the Haystack ad mired, and the musical qualities of the stalactites brought forth with 38 a doctor's pilgrimage. "The Three Gentlemen Returned Unharmed." the same precision that many unfortunate consumptives had been subjected to in Northern cities through advanced methods of per cussion, and then, fording the river and skirting its peaceful banks, they found their way back to the hotel, none the worse for their long day. A doctor's pilgrimage. 39 The Haystack. 40 A doctor's pilgrimage. The Chairman and Dr. Vanderpoel had left for New- York on Tuesday morning, and the remainder of the party again boarded the car " Celtic," which had been drawn up to a siding, and at an early hour started on their homeward joumey. It would be monotonous to refer to the many incidents of the re turn trip, except to say that every mfle increased the good fellow ship and unloosed a flood of anecdote and pleasantry. Every one felt younger and better for the change, and the veteran of the party, who under no circumstances could ever be considered old, in spite of all his valuable work, read the following verses: To Dr. Lewis A. Sayre on his eighteenth birthday, February 29th, 1892. From Dr. Huntington, Rector of Grace Church, New- York. Dear Doctor Sayre, and can it be That Nature set her clock for you Some four and fifty years too slow? How clever of her to foreknow That you would keep yourself so young. So firm of heart, So stout of lung. That she would never be detected. Or you so much as e'en suspected Of being older by a day Than leap-year records seem to say ! Eighteen, dear friend, or seventy-two, Whiche'er it be, GOOD LUCK TO YOU ! a doctor's pilgrimage. 41 And in this connection reference was made to the influence of medical practice in bringing to its followers a certain kind of vivacity and youthfulness, which is even shown in the face of hard work and oftentimes persistent struggle ; and allusion was made to Dr. Ohver Wendell Holmes, and his perennial vigor and freshness of mind and feeling. It seemed that one of the number, Dr. Andrew H. Smith, had been present with others at a dinner given to Dr. Holmes by the medical profession of New-York on the occasion of his seventieth birthday, and read an original poem, which he was induced to repeat : You 've heard of the Deacon's one-hoss shay. Which, finished in Boston the self-same day That the City of Lisbon went to pot. Did a century's service, and then was not — But the record 's at fault which says that it "bust" Into simply a heap of amorphous dust; For, after the wreck of that wonderful tub. Out of the ruin they saved a hub. And the hub has since stood for Boston town — "Hub of the Universe" — note that down! But an ordinary hub, as all will own, Must have something central to turn upon ; And, rubber-cushioned and true and bright, We have the axle here to-night. Thrice welcome, then, to our festal board The doctor-poet, so doubly stored With science as well as with native wit (Poeta nascitur, you know, non fit). Skilled to dissect with knife or pen His subjects— dead or living men; With thoughts sublime on every page To swell the veins with virtuous rage; Or, with a syringe, to inject them With sublimate to disinfect them; To show with demonstrator's art The complex chambers of the heart ; Or, armed with a diviner skfll, To make it pulsate at his will; In generous verse to celebrate The loaves and fishes of some giver, And then proceed to demonstrate The lobes and fissures of the liver ; 42 A doctor's pilgrimage. With strains from his prophetic lyre To make each nerve a trembling wire ; Or to describe with care laborious Nervus Spinalis Accessorius; To move with fervor of appeal The sluggish muscles into steel ; Or, pulling their attachments, show Whence they rise and whence they go ; To fire the eye by wit consummate. Or draw the aqueous humor from it; In times of peril give the tone To public feeling, called " backbone " ; Or to discuss that question solemn — The muscles of the spinal column. And now I close my artless ditty, As per agreement with committee; And, making place for those more able, I leave the subject on the table. Yet one word more ; I 've had my pride As medicus most sorely tried When Englishmen (who sometimes show Of things American, you know. An ignorance that is melancholy). As Dr. Holmes is very jolly. Assume that he must therefore be A Doctor of Divinity. So, to avoid all chance of wrong To Medicine, or Church, or Song, Let " Dr. Holmes " discarded be For " Oliver Wendefl Holmes, M.D." And now (for I really must come to an end) May the fate of the chaise be the fate of our friend — May he never break down and never wear out Till a century old, or thereabout ; Not feeling the weight of the years as they fly, He simply stops living when ready to die. There was something about the shadows of the sflent Virginia mountains that at times appealed to the sentiment of the party, and the laughter which foflowed Dr. Smith's verses was broken by Dr. Wright, who arose and recited the following : A DOCTOR S pilgrimage. 43 THE SAILOR BOY'S FAREWELL. Farewell to Father, blessed hulk ! In spite of metal, spite of bulk. His • cable soon may slip. But while the parting tear is moist The flag of gratitude we '11 hoist, In duty to the ship. Farewell to Mother, "first class "she! Who launched me in life's stormy sea And rigged me fore and aft. May Providence her timbers spare And keep her hull in good repair To tow the little craft! Farewell to Sister, lovely yacht ! But whether she '11 be manned or not I cannot now foresee. May some good ship a tender prove. Well found in stores of truth and love, And take her under lee ! Farewell to George, the jolly-boat ! And all the little craft afloat, In home's delightful bay. When they arrive at safling age May wisdom prove the "weather-gauge" To guide them on their way ! Farewell to all on life's rude main, And though we ne'er may meet again Through stress of stormy weather. Yet, summoned by the Board above, We '11 labor in the port of love. And aU be moored together. 44 A doctor's pilgrimage. As the train wound its way eastward, war memories came strug gling back to those of the number who, a quarter of a century before, had tented on Virginia sofl, and when Harper's Ferry was reached, on the morning ofthe twenty-first, stories were exchanged and reminis cences indulged in. The scene of John Brown's desperate struggle brought vividly back the stirring episode of the outbreak of the war. Harper's Ferry, the Point of Rocks, and the glistening Potomac were all portions of the passing panorama that greeted the party and the morning sun which illumined the dome of the Capitol and the Washington Monument told our travelers that they were nearly home, and this they realized several hours afterward, when with hand-shaking and " God speed " they scattered, once more to plunge into their busy lives, to bind up the wounds, to straighten the bones, to fight microbes, and to minister to impatient patients, but much refreshed by their week's outing in the South. While the mountains of Tennessee have resumed their wonted quiet, the quail have crept from their places of refuge, the flowers have raised their heads, no longer fearing the ruthless hand of the botanist ; the clouds still float lazily over the Pinnacle, as if loath in their loneli ness to leave the place which was so lately visited by the jolly party, and the memories ofthe Doctor's Pilgrimage of October, 1892, are treasured by those who had the pleasure of entertaining them. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 05453 0960 f