YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 05350 8173 §l ii ¦ri,:;^"-' " n Sail XX "I give thefe. Books. far: the founding ef a. College in, tX£s)£obny' • iLHiBiaaisrar ¦ Bought with the income ofthe New York Alumni Association Fund 190* c 9 ^o^BER **//¦> IN AND AROUND "£ ^ RAPIDS- X 1839 TO 1849. REV. GEORGE R. CARROLL. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. TIMES PRINTING AND BINDING HOUSE. 1895. Copyright, 1895. By Rev. Geo. R. Carroll. PREFACE. You say you " never read a preface." Very well, nobody wishes to compel you to do so. But very often you will be the loser, provided you read the book that follows the preface, if you do not give it an attentive perusal. Besides, if the author has a few words of explanation concerning his work that has cost him so much labor, he is entitled to a respectful hearing, lest he should be misunderstood in what he has written. In the pages that follow, the writer does not attempt to give a full history of all the events and persons of that period of which he writes, but simply to rescue from the hopeless ob livion to which they would soon be consigned, a few facts, concerning the people and their doings of those early times, that ought to be preserved, if ever a full and correct history is written. The accounts hitherto given have been written up by non residents who have collected a few isolated facts and woven them together without knowing much of what or of whom they have written. The consequence has been that many errors have crept into their records which have been exten sively copied by later writers at second-hand, and so these errors, which on close examination are often found to be self- contradictory, have found currency and are still perpetuated. The writer of the pages that follow, was a personal par- VI PREFACE. ticipator in, or at least an eye-witness, of many of the things of which he writes, and was personally acquainted with, or knew well by reputation, almost every person of whom he has attempted a description. The dates of important events be has endeavored, by per sonal visitation of the oldest settlers, and extensive corres pondence with the old pioneers who are now living in distant parts of the country, to fix with tbe utmost accuracy, so that they can be relied upon as correct. Of course there is no claim to absolute perfection in this work. There may be, and doubtless are many errors concerning dates of minor im portance, ancl yet every attempt" has been made to have the record throughout as reliable and trustworthy as possible. What has been written in this work has been done with out the promise of reward from any source, and hence the author has been left free to express his own thoughts without fear or favor. It will be a sufficient reward if the readers of these pagesshall lind them in any degree helpful, and a source from whence they can derive reliable information concerning the very early history of our beloved city and county. The illustrations that accompany this work, so far as they relate to early history, have been reproduced from memory by the author; the only exception being the Jones parsonage, which still stands, although somewhat modified in appearance by later owners. All the other buildings of those primitive days have long since been demolished, and they live only in the memories of the few surviving pioneers of the long ago. It has been a source of great satisfaction to me that the pictures are recognized by those who know, to be very fair representations of the originals. The cuts of the modern buildings are given in order to bring out in more vivid contrast the past and present of our city, in which all who reside here feel such a just pride. GEORGE R. CARROLL. Cedar Rapids, Iowa, June, 1895. ILLUSTRATIONS. Residence of Mr. Isaac Carroll .... 25 " Shepherd's Tavern " 71 Y. M. C A. Building .... . . 77 The Astor House 221 Residence of Rev. Williston Jones .... 179 The First Presbyterian Church . . . .183 Going Shopping ... . . . . 101 Pioneer Pleasure Ride 235 The Narrow Escape 49 Portrait of Mr. Robert Ellis . ... 91 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE I Introductory' 1 Family History 2 Tidings from the Far West 1 "The New Purchase " 4 Destination Settled -..., 4 CHAPTER II. From Canada to Iowa 1 6 The Outfit - 6 Taking Leave of the Last Friend (i Crossing the Line -. 7 The "Father of Waters" 8 The Rest at Moscow . 10 Return of the Explorers 10 CHAPTER III. The Journey Continued 12 First Entrance into Linn County 12 Reaching the County Seat 13 The Bassett Home 14 Lewis' Bark Cabin 14 Mr. Lewis described 15 The Jewell Hut 16 A.B.Mason .,¦¦ 17 CHAPTER IV. The Destination Reached . 18 The Claim Described---, _ 19 contents. ix Hobson's Choice 19 The Erection of the First CabiD 19 , The Permanent Home...- 20 CHAPTER V. Entering the New Home 27 A Little Incident 27 The Bee-tree 29 CHAPTER VI. Life in the New Home 31 Supplies for the Family 31 Location of the Road 33 The First Winter 34 Social Aspect 34 An Interested Visitor 35 Opening of the Fa I'm 37 Plowing the Ground 38 CHAPTER VII. Wild Fruit and Game 39 The Sportsman's Paradise 42 CHAPTER VIII. Other Wild Animals and Reptiles 43 Prairie Wolves 43 Wildcats 45 The Snakes of Iowa 48 Wild Flowers 55 CHAPTER IX. Our First School House 56 First Religious Services. 57 Debating Societies 61 Mr. and Mrs. Lutz 64 CHAPTER X Other Neighbors 64 William Knowls ._ 64 Caleb Hendricks 66 X contents. Levi Lewis 67 Jason Bartholomew 68 Osgood Shepherd 70 The First Settler in Cedar Rapids 70 The Family with Golden Hair 75 Mr. Porter W. Earl 80 Mr. and Mrs. John L. Shearer 82 John Vardy 86 N.B. Brown 87 Robert Ellis 90 The Oldest Settler 90 O S. Bowling 94 David W. King 96 Thomas Gainor 96 The Listebarger Brothers 98 Farnum Colby 99 CHAPTER XI. Our Merchants 100 The First Goods Sold in Town 100 Joseph Greene, the First Merchant 103 Charles R. Mulford 108 Samuel Hook 108 William Greene 110 Mrs. Prudence Baker.. 112 The Higley Brothers 113 W. W. Higley 115 Major M. A. Higley 116 Lowell Daniels 120 A-ddison Daniels 117 Preston Daniels 119 Lawson Daniels 121 J. F. Charles 123 Isaac W. Carroll 124 CHAPTER XII. The Phy-silians of Early" Times 126 The Quacks 126 The Educated Practitioners 128 Henry Ristine, M. D ._ 128 John F. Ely, M. D 130 contents. xi E. L. Mansfield, M. D 133 S. D. Carpenter, M. D 135 Dr. J. C. Traer. -.1 136 CHAPTER XIII. John G. McLeod 138 C.C.Cook 140 Hon. George Greene 142 Henry Weare 146 John Weare, Jr. 148 The Sons of John Weare, Jr 153 Alexander L. Ely . 157 Hon. Isaac Cook 160 Col. I. M. Preston... i61 CHAPTER XIV Mr. Arvin Kennedy 163 James Martin 176 Samuel S. Johnson 165 Absalom Sines 165 William Stewart : 166 Joseph Hollan 174 James Ferguson 172 John Weare, Sr . 168 Charles Weare _¦ 173 George Weare :... 170 Rev. Williston Jones 177 H. L.Bryan . 1S6 Miss Mary S. Legare 190 Other Brief Biographical Notices - 191 The Biographical Shetches as a Whole - 193 CHAPTER XV. Schools. Religious Services and Music ._ 195 Music of Early Times 197 CHAPTER XVI. The Indians... 202 XII CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. The Exceptionals 208 The Broady's 208 Joel Leverich. 210 CHAPTER XVIII. The First Steamboat — 215 An Early Railroad Project 217 "The Astor House" - -. 221 CHAPTER XIX. Notes and Incidents 223 (By Mrs. E. H. Jones). Private Boarding-house, Dubuque 225 Home at Last 228 A Visit to the Home of Mr. E. T. Lewis 231 The Empty Larder 234 The Indian Visitors ..,. 240 CHAPTER XX. Brief Mentions 243 Marion and Vicinity.. 243 Closing Words 246 CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. It is always a matter of interest to trace the history of towns and communities in their origin and subsequent development. Too often, howev er, the beginnings of these histories are neglected till it is too late ever to get at the facts necessary to a complete record of events so desirable to be known. The founding of the now important city of Cedar Rapids dates back more than a half century, and yet only a meagre and imperfect account of those early times has ever been written. The people who lived in those primitive days arid participated in its scenes have dwindled down to a very small number. Having been a participator in those scenes of long ago, and being able to recall somewhat viv idly many things that transpired at that period, I have been impelled, through the urgency of friends, to attempt a record of a few things that tran spired when the foundations of this city and the community around it were being laid. There are several questions that naturally sug- 2 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND gests themselves to every inquiring mind with regard to the settlers of any country, and more especially of a new country: 1. The first is, who were they? 2. The second, whence came they? 3. The third, what led them to this particular place? 4. The fourth, how did they come? 5. The fifth, what and whom did they find when they arrived? 6. And finally, what did they do after they reached their destination? These questions it will be the purpose of the writer to answer with respect to his own family, and at least a part of them so far as he is able, with respect to other families that will be men tioned in these pages. In the very nature of the case I find it impossi ble to write out these reminiscences without bring ing into a somewhat disproportionate prominence my own family. But I trust it will be deemed a sufficient apology for this, when it is remembered that the experiences of this one family are essen tially those of many others, and hence, the narra tive here presented, will give the reader a true picture of life as it then existed. THE FAMILY HISTORY. My father, Isaac Carroll, was born in the coun ty of Ontairo, State of New York, December 1, 1777. My grandfather was a native of the State CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 3 of New Jersey, and his father, I believe, was a native of Ireland. In early manhood, I think it must have been, my father, together with his father and several broth ers, emigrated to the town and county of Oxford, Canada West, or Upper Canada, as it was then called. My mother, whose maiden name was Lovina Skeel, was born in the county of Rutland, State of Vermont, October 20, 1791. Most of her early life was spent at Clarenden, now known as Clar- enden Springs, and a somewhat noted watering place. Subsequent to that she moved to John son's Creek, New York, a few miles east of Lock- port. Both my father and mother had been previously married and each had children, some of whom were grown up and away from home before I was born. My father and mother were united in marriage at Oxford, Canada, November 12, 1826. From this marriage there were born to them the follow ing children: Catharine Lovina, August 27, 1827. Isaac Wesley, October 12, 1829. George Ryerson, March 13, 1831, and Julia Anjenette, August 24, 1833. It was in the spring of 1833 that the family moved from Oxford to Malahide, in the county of Elgin, ten miles north of Lake Erie and near Tal bot street. This was our farm home for six or seven years. 4 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND My father was too much of a liberal and my mother too much of a yankee ever to be contented under monarchical rule. And so for a number of years the question of emigrating to "the states" was agitated. TIDINGS FROM THE FAR WEST. Somewhere about the year 1838 we began to hear a good deal about the Rock River country in the far-off State of Illinois. So many favorable things were said of it that my parents thought quite favorably of going to that new country where land could be easily secured and the boys could get farms when grown up. In fact they had about decided to make that the objective point of their travels, when the time came for them to make the change, when all of a sudden a new direction was given to their thoughts. "THE NEW PURCHASE." Just at this time, a neighbor of former year§, John Brooks by name, having gone West a year or two before, returned, and g'ave glowing ac counts of "The New Purchase" in Linn county, in the Territory of Iowa. In 1838, a portion of the territory in which Linn county is now included, was purchased of the Sac and Fox Indians, and so it became known as "The New Purchase." DESTINATION SETTLED. This visit of Mr. Brooks decided the question CEDAR RAPIDS, 'IOWA. 5 of location and fixed our destination beyond the "Father of Waters." Our farm was sold to a man by the name of Joel Stephens, the price of which I do not remem ber, if, indeed, I ever knew. I can only recall the fact that in one part of the payment there were one thousand half dollars which seemed to me like an enormous sum of, money. About the middle or last of May, 1839, all the arrangements had been made, and we were at last ready to take up the line of our march to the land of promise. It seemed to us all like a great undertaking. The distance apeared to us so immense that we never expected to return again to the old home. And although the distance now seems quite insig nificant, as a matter of fact, some of us have never looked upon the old home from that day to this. Our family consisted of father and mother, Sarah Carroll, our half sister on father's side, Charles C. Cook and B. F. Cook, half brothers on mother's side, together with the four children already mentioned, making in all a family of nine persons. PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER II. FROM CANADA TO IOWA— THE OUTFIT. Our outfit consisted of two spans of horses and two covered wagons, one of which was rather small and designed for the conveyance of the women and children. We had besides four cows of our own, and Mr. Brooks accompanied us with two more, making altogether quite a little cara van — ten persons, four horses, six cows, two wagons, and last of all, our old dog "Watch." We had a good tent which we could pitch when occasion required, and this, with our covered wagons, afforded very good shelter when out of the reach of better accommodations. Our first day's journey terminated at St. Thom as, a town twelve miles distant from our old home. Here we spent the night with a half sister, Mrs. Harriet Kennedy. On resuming our journey the next day it was a hard struggle for mother to part with her daughter whom she never expected to see again on earth. TAKING LEAVE OF THE LAST FRIEND. Our sister walked out with us through the town, and on the banks of a little stream we took our final leave of her, and as we slowly wound our way up the opposite hill, mother kept look ing back and weeping as though her heart would CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 7 break. It seemed as though her grief was more than she could bear, and I remember well how lovingly Sarah approached her and with soothing words besought mother not to give way to her sorrow. And so we passed on over the hill, and this proved to be the last meeting of mother and daughter in this world, although some of us chil dren were permitted to meet her many years after in her new home in Michigan whither she had moved with her husband. CROSSING THE LINE. Of the rest of our journey of ninety or a hun dred miles through Canada, I can recall nothing of interest at this late date, but I remember very well that when we reached the shore of the United States at Detroit father appeared very happy, and I am sure mother shared the happiness with him, for the love of the old flag under which she was born had never forsaken her. From Detroit we passed on forty miles west to Ypsilanti, a part of the way along the line of the Michigan Central railroad, then in process of con struction. This was impressed upon my mind as it was our first view of a locomotive and a train of construction cars. At Ypsilanti we took a few days' rest and visit with an uncle, a half brother of my mother, who resided there at that time. Father seemed delighted with the appearance of the rich, mellow soil of the new country, which my uncle showed off to good advantage by turning up its surface with the toe of his boot. But when 8 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND father saw the corn which was the product of this rich soil, he appeared to be a good deal disap pointed, for, although the ears were much larger and more thrifty in appearance than the little, smooth, round ears of the Yankee corn to which he had always been accustomed, yet the uneven, indented kernels of this new variety, was sugges tive to him of early frosts, and he reported to the family in a private and half despondent way that the corn was frost bitten. In after years, when he had discovered the soundness and superiority of this corn over the old, he often laughed at his own early and erroneous impression concerning it. And this reminds me of the fact that our horses, too, had to become accustomed to this new corn as well as we, for they knew of no other kind of grain except oats, for although they seemed to know that corn was good to eat, they did not know how to get it off from the cob. Instead of leaving the ears of corn in the trough and biting the kernels from the cob, they would lift them up in their teeth and scatter them upon the ground. However, they soon learned how to manipulate it. and throve nicely on the new provender. THE "FATHER OF WATERS." After a short visit at Ypsilanti we passed on slowly, taking a day or two's rest now and then as occasion seemed to require. It was in Michi gan that we had our first view of the prairie. In St. Joseph county we passed through White Pig eon prairie, a most charming country, but as yet sparsely settled. Of course, we were delighted CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 9 with the new scenery, the long stretches of bil lowy landscapes, with their carpets of green, be decked with flowers, and only here and there a grove to break the monotony and to serve as land marks to guide us on our westward journey. Reaching Michigan City, with its sand hills, we bore to the south, passing by the lake and out on to the immense prairies of Illinois, so level and monotonous and dreary as to make us long to see some of the old familiar forests of Canada again. But on, on we went through bridgeless streams and bottomless sloughs, till at last we reached the bank of the "Father of Waters" and the east ern boundary of the Territory of our future home. As we stood upon the banks of the majestic Mississippi, we descried far away on the opposite bank a few log huts. This was our first glimpse of Iowa homes. The inhabitants of this little hamlet were ambitious to be known as a town, and they had assumed the historic name of Wyo ming. The location was a short distance above what is now known as Muscatine. How the ears of those ambitious pioneers must have tingled, when in later years their proud rival profanely designated them as "Jug-town," and all because their chief industry happened to be that of manu facturing stone-ware. We crossed the great river in a somewhat rick ety scow or flat-boat, whose only means of loco motion was a couple of oars which were manipu lated by two stalwart men, who afterwards be came residents of Linn county, one of whom, Mr. 10 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND Dyer Usher, recently died at his home a few miles west of Cedar Rapids, Iowa. The other, Mr. Joel Howard, died a few years ago in the same neighborhood. The rapid current of the river carried us down, of course, a long distance below the point where we started in on the Illinois side; but we at last reached the western shore in good condition, thankful that no accident had befallen us in mak ing the perilous passage that we had so long dreaded. Landing safely on Iowa soil, we proceeded westward twelve miles to a log cabin, where we received a cordial welcome from its inmates. It was the home of the parents of our fellow-trav eler, Mr. Brooks. THE REST AT MOSCOW. Here we obtained permission to occupy a log cabin for ten days, until father and mother could go on to the "New Purchase" and explore the ground and locate our claim. The aforesaid cabin had neither doors, floors nor windows, but it had a roof which was an important consideration in the season when heavy rains were liable at any hour to overtake us. RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS. After an absence of eight or ten days, father and mother returned from the "New Purchase" with favorable reports, having selected their claim, marking out its boundaries and choosing the site for our house. Father had been subject CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 11 to severe attacks of sick headache for many years, and while absent on this exploring tour, one of these distressing turns overtook him. I am quite sure that those who know what the sick headache is, either from actual experience or from close observation of its effects, will not think it strange, nor will they think the less of my father, if, under these circumstances and environments, he did manifest a slight tendency to homesickness. But the unflinching energy, the unfailing cour age, and the skillful ministrations of the woman at his side, brought him through all right, and both returned in apparently good spirits and with high hopes for the future. It may, perhaps, be as well to say here, as anywhere, that amid all the hardships and trials incident to a new country, which only those who have experienced them can appreciate, mother's courage and hopefulness never failed her, and she never would admit that she regretted for a moment the step she took in coming to Iowa. Mr. John Brooks accompanied father and moth er on this exploring expedition and rendered val uable assistance, as he had been over the ground previously and had located his own claim a few miles north of the county seat, or where the coun ty seat was to be. 12 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER III. THE JOURNEY CONTINUED. On leaving Moscow it was with different feel ings from those which we had hitherto experi enced. Our destination was no longer vague and shadowy, but definitely fixed. True, there was no house nor shelter of any kind except the trees, and not a foot of ground was inclosed with even the rudest fence, but the lines had been traced out, and the stakes had been set, and the trees marked where our home was to be, and our par ents knew the way thither. FIRST ENTRANCE INTO LINN COUNTY. I cannot now recall anything of importance that occurred on the way until we reached Linn Grove, where we found a few log cabins. In conversa tion with one of the women that occupied one of these primitive abodes, we found that her language was so different from anything that we were ac customed to, that it left a decided impression on our minds and was a source of no little amuse ment to us children. Some of her peculiar ex pressions "were by- words with us for many years. She seemed very cordial and ready, as everybody was, to "welcome newcomers; and she was quite communicative, although her accounts "were not always of the most encouraging and inspiring character to the new arrivals. She often made CEDAR RAPIDS,, IOWA. 13 use of the words "heap" and "right smart" and "mighty good or bad," all of which sounded to us very strange. "There is a heap of hard work and a dreadful poor living here," she remarked, and then pointing to the tall trees that surround ed us, she said: "There is a heap of linn here." To our inquiry as to the best way to the county seat, she said, as she surveyed our little caravan, "Come right straight ahead and go right straight through," which was about as definite as she could be, as there was scarcely any track to indi cate our course. We, however, followed her di rection and went forward, and in an hour or two found ourselves on the clean virgin prairie where now stands our beautiful little twin sister city of Marion. I have heard my oldest half brother, C. C. Cook, say that there were probably not more than half a dozen families in the county at the time of our arrival. This may not be strictly accurate, but I am sure that the number was very small. The larger portion of the inhabitants were men who had come on in advance of their families to secure their claims and erect some kind of a shel ter for them when they came. There must have been some kind of a county organization, for when we arrived, the point of its judicial centre had al ready been fixed as above indicated. REACHING THE COUNTY SEAT. It was in the afternoon of the 4th of July, 1839, when we reach the county seat, and the onl}7 thing to mark the spot was a bower of bushes 14 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND under which our nation's birthday had been cele brated in primitive style, and in which, judging from the hilarious demonstrations of two or three men that we met by the way, whiskey must have played a somewhat conspicuous part. A little at one side of the town site, L. M. Strong, Esq., had a little cabin. I do not remember to have seen either this cabin or its tenants at that time, but Mr, Strong was for many years after a well known and highly honored citizen of this place. THE BASSETT HOME. Passing on beyond Marion, we crossed Indian Creek about a mile north of the present crossings where there was a beautiful crystal spring, near which was a little cabin, occupied by Mr. James W. Bassett. LEWIS' bark cabin. From this point, turning in a southwesterly di rection, we found our way by a dim track through the woods reaching, towards night, the little bark shanty of Ephriam T. Lewis, near where now stands the stone barn just south of the boulevard two miles west of Marion. Mr. Lewis and his son-in-law, Nathaniel G. Niece, were there and gave us a hearty welcome and a most cordial in vitation to share their hospitality over night, which we gladly accepted. This frail bark tene ment was given up very cordially and" generously by the owner to the use of the women for a sleep ing apartment, while the men and boys in the CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 15 company sought shelter and lodging in the tent and wagons. This little bark shanty was so unlike anything that I have ever seen that I think a more minute description of it may not be amiss in this place. The bark was taken from the trunks of bass- wood trees eighteen inches or two feet in diame ter, perhaps, and from cuts seven or eight feet long, or as high as you wished to make the build ing. From these logs the bark was stripped off entire, making one piece, when set up on end and unrolled, as high as the house and several feet wide. To keep the bark from curling up in the sun, two straight poles were fastened together and the bark placed between them at the top and bottom. The roof was made of the same mater ial and in the same way. It made a very neat little cabin from the outside appearance, and in the inside it was as white and clean as the most fastidious house-wife could "wish. MR. E. T. LEWIS DESCRIBED. Mr. Lewis was a large, fleshy man, wide awake and good natured and full of enthusiasm. He was a Methodist by profession, and often exhorted the people with -great fervor and zeal. His religion "was good so far as it "went, but I am sorry to say that it did not go far enough, for he had the re putation of not being very reliable in his state ments nor in his business transactions. However, in general terms he proved to be a very good neighbor, always accommodating and ready to work 16 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND for the public good, though somewhat grasping in disposition and fond of preferment. Mr. Lewis' family did not arrive till the fol lowing autumn or early winter. The family con sisted of Mrs. Lewis, two sons, William and Wil bert, two daughters, Zipporah and Sarah, the former the wife of Mr. N. G. Niece, and the lat ter a young girl of 12 years of age, perhaps. The family was held in high esteem and we re garded them as very valuable acquisitions to our society. Mrs. Lewis was a women of great excellence of character, who won the hearts of all her pio neer associates by her uniform kindness of dispo sition and her many generous and neighborly acts. It was a dire misfortune to the family and a great sorrow to the neighborhood when, some five years later, Mrs. Lewis was suddenly called away by death. The family was soon broken up and scattered after this sad event, and their subse quent history, especially that of the three younger children, had better remain unwritten. Mr. Lewis married quite happily a second time, but he seemed to be somewhat unfortunate in his business transactions. He died a few years later near his old claim where we first met him. THE JEWELL HUT. Leaving Mr. Lewis' primitive home on the morn ing of July 5th, we passed on a half mile west to the little hut of Mr. Jewell which stood on the ground which has since been occupied for fifty-four years CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 17 as the home of our highly esteemed fellow- citizen, Mr. Barnet Lutz. This little hut, built of poles and prairie grass, held the only family between Indian Creek north of Marion and Cedar Rapids. Mr. Jewell had a wife and two or three children. The walls of this unique structure were made by setting up two rows of poles, say six inches apart, and filling up the space between with prairie hay. The covering was of the same abundant material — poles and grass. The sleep ing apartments "were placed one above the other like berths in a steamer, though not quite so elab orately furnished. The children, of course, were placed in the upper berths, not only as a matter of convenience, but as a precautionary measure against the encroachments of the numerous wolves and wild cats and other beasts of prey which often prowled about of nights in search. of something to satisfy their hunger. Mrs. Jewell was the only white woman mother saw outside of our family for six months after our arrival. She saw plenty of squaws, however, for the Indians were still on the g7round in great numbers. A. b. mason. Passing on, perhaps sixty or eighty rods west of Mr. Jewell's throug'h the tall g'rass, we found Mr. A. B. Mason breaking up prairie on the higher ground just north of the Chicago, Milwau kee & St. Paul railroad, at a point forty or fifty rods west of the boulevard crossing- at Kenwood. 18 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND This, I think, was the first furrow plowed be tween Marion and Cedar Rapids. Mr. Mason's little cabin stood on the side of the hill near Indian Creek not far from Mr. Mc- Kee's residence. Mr. Mason was rather a prim looking bachelor, probably forty-five or fifty years of age, and on Sundays and state occasions sported a silk hat, a little out of style, possibly, but on the whole he made a very good appearance. He was a man of more than ordinary intelligence, and very good material for a justice of the peace, which office he filled in after years with becoming dignity and always with satisfaction to the win ning side. Mr. Mason said that he often heard the tread of wild animals about his cabin at night, and could hear them crack the bones and devour the crumbs that had been thrown out from his table. CHAPTER IV. THE DESTINATION REACHED. Passing Mr. Mason by, we found ourselves in a few moments on the ground which was to be our future home. At the point of the ridge near the foot of the mound, which in later years, has been extensively known as Judge Greene's Mound Farm, we pitched our tent, the little brook near by affording us water, and the grove close at hand, furnishing us wood and poles and bushes for the erection of a bower, which, for a few days, was to serve us as a kitchen and dining room. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 19 THE CLAIM DESCRIBED. Our claim embraced a half section, 320 acres, the south line being the same as the north line of what is now known as the Bever farm, one cor ner of the west line being in Central Park, and the other on the east side of the mound near the bottom, the north line running from this latter point through Midway Park about a quarter of a mile east of the Boulevard into the woods. hobson's CHOICE. The land on every side except the east, had already been claimed, and so it was Hobson's choice; this or nothing. But my parents could not have been better satisfied if they had had the whole country to choose from. The exact description of the land when it was surveyed, three years later, was found to be the southwest quarter of section 14, township 83, north of range 7, west of the fifth principal me ridian, and the southeast quarter of section 15, same township, rang7e and meridian. My mother rode on horseback while she accom panied father and some of the neighbors as they looked over the boundaries of our claim and select ed the location for the house. THE ERECTION OF THE FIRST CABIN. The next step after pitching our tent, and put ting up our bower, was to build a log cabin, which would serve us for the time as a temporary 20 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND dwelling place, and could afterwards be used as a stable for our horses when a more commodious house could be erected. It took about ten days to erect a cabin. It stood on the east side of the road near Mr. Bower's nursery, on the boulevard, one and a half miles from the river. It was a very primitive looking structure, 16 by 18, per haps, with what we called a cob roof made of clapboards, with logs on top to hold them in place. It was quite an agreeable change from our tent and wagons "when we entered this new cabin, although there was not a great deal of room to spare after our goods were unloaded and the nine members of the family were gathered within its walls. When the table was spread there was no passing from one side to the other except as we got down upon our hands and knees and crawled under, an operation easily performed by us children. THE PERMANENT HOME. Having become fairly settled in this little dom icile, the next great work which was to occupy the whole summer and fall, was the erection of the building that was to be our permanent home. There being no mills nor lumber in the country, of course we must build our house of logs. It was however not to be any common kind of a cabin, it was to be a somewhat ambitious struc ture for the time, in fact it was to be the best house in Linn county, and when completed, it en- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 21 joyed that distinction. It was said that there was nothing in the county that equalled it. The dimensions of this house were 16 by 24 and a story and a half high. There were in the walls of this house between 50 and 60 white oak logs, most of them quite straight and free from knots. The ends of the logs were cut off square and the corners were laid up like square blocks, care being taken to cut off enough at the ends to allow the logs to come as close together as possible, so as to leave but little space for chinking and plastering when it came to the finishing up. The only boards about the entire building were in the door which I think were broug7ht with us on the top of our wagon box, which was of extra height. The joists above and below were made of log's, the upper ones squared with the broad axe. The casings of doors and windows ¦ and the floors above and below were made out of bass wood puncheons. Slabs were split out of the logs and then hewn out with the broad axe and the edges were made straight by the use of the chalk line. The gable ends were sided up with clapboards rived out of oak timber three or four feet long, and then shaved off smooth like siding. The rafters were made of hickory poles, trimmed off straight on the upper side, and strips three or four inches wide, were nailed on the sheeting. ' Upon these strips, shingles made of oak, 18 inches long, and nicely shaven, were laid. The logs of the walls, in the inside were hewn off 22 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND flat, and the interstices between, were chinked and plastered with lime mortar, the lime being burned by my father on Indian Creek. There were three windows below of 12 lights each, with glass 7 b3r 9, and a window in each of the gable ends of 9 lights, which furnished light for the room above. The fire-place was built up of logs on the outside, and lined with stone within, and the chimney was built of sticks split out about the size of laths, and plastered with clay both inside and outside. Another incident in connection with this fire place, of which my sister reminds me, is that mother was the builder of the stone work. Owing to sickness in the family the work on the house had been delayed till winter was at hand, and the occupancy of the new house at the earliest possi ble date seemed a necessity. A thousand things pressed upon us all at once, and every hand that was able to work was busy from morning till night. Mother thought she saw an opportunity to help in the matter of the fire-place, and so she laid up the stones with her own hands, while the girls, Sarah and Kate, furnished the clay mortar, and rendered such other assistance as was re quired. Mother was always delicate in health and was really not fitted for any very hard physical toil. She was, however, quick in her movements, and her vigorous mind and her exhaustless courage and grit made up for all bodily deficiencies, and prepared her to meet every emergency. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 23 The door had no "latch string to hang out." But it had a genuine handle with thumb piece and latch, all of wood and the handiwork of my father, who, by the way, possessed considerable mechan ical ingenuity. He rived and shaved most of the shing'les on a shaving horse of his own manufac- ' ture; he could make a splint broom, bottom chairs with black ash splints, make rakes, wooden pitch forks, and could even make a good strong sled, and many other useful things in those times when everything had to be manufactured from the raw material. Few can understand the difficulties and obsta cles to be overcome in the erection of a building even of such small proportions as the one I have just described. In the first place we traded off one span of our horses for two yoke of oxen, which latter seemed indispensable in working among the logs, and in much of the work in opening a new farm. Then it was no small job to select nice straight trees scattered here and there -through the forest, some near and some far away. Then they had to be cut down and drawn in one by one with the oxen, the vehicle used being what was called a "lizzard," a sort of a short sled made in the form of the letter A, one end of the log being- chained to the cross piece and the other dragging on the ground. The raising of the house was a time of great interest, not only to our own family but to every body in the neighborhood for miles around. Everybody turned out to the raising, and great 24 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND care was taken to lay up the corners square and plumb, and when the last log was shoved upon the skids to its destined place, it was a time of general rejoicing among the weary workmen who had labored so faithfully and so willingly during the day. Mr. Joseph Listebarger, who was a carpenter and joiner, from the west side of the river, did the carpenter work and the finishing. I have described the building of this house thus minutely to show in a limited way some of the obstacles and hardships that had to be encoun tered by the early settlers of this country. The building of that house at such a time, small as it was and as insignificant as it seems from our present standpoint, was a real triumph, and exhibits an amount of pluck and energy and perseverance that no one need be ashamed of. And this appears the more readily when we re member that every foot of ground had to be cleared of brush and small oak trees, that roads had to be made, that provisions for our large fam ily had to be broug-ht from the Mississippi river, and, that during the latter part of that summer, there were times when every member of the family was prostrated with the ag7ue except my brother Charles and myself . Residence of Mr. Isaac Carroll, erected in 1839. looking southwest. The best house in Linn County at that time. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 27 CHAPTER V. ENTERING' THE NEW HOME. It was late in the fall, and there was snow on the ground when we entered our new home. I do not know that we were especially proud of our new house, but we were not in the least ashamed of it, and with our ample fire-place, and the best of wood, and in unlimited abundance, we made ourselves very comfortable during the cold winter days and nights that followed. You can readily imagine that, in our g-reat haste to get into the new house, many things re mained to be done after we had moved in. Our way of getting up stairs was by means of a ladder in one corner of the house. The upper floor was loosely laid down, and in some parts, the puncheons or planks rested, at one end, two or three inches on the joists, and the other end lapped over on the next layer, so that a little care had to be exercised lest one end might slip off from the joist and let us through. A LITTLE INCIDENT. One night we had company, but for some unac countable reason I retired early. My brother Isaac and I always slept together, and he being the older, claimed the right always to sleep on 28 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND the front side of the bed. As the head of the bed in this case stood next to the wall and both sides were alike accessible, it was difficult to deter mine which was the front. But after awhile my brother came up, and when he got ready to jump into bed, he thought the side in which I had planted myself for the night was the front, and he wished me to lie over and give him the right-of- way to that side. The coldness of the night, mingled with a considerable amount of native de pravity, made me hesitate somewhat, in meeting the requirement with that alacrity that the case seemed to demand, and so my brother, bracing himself on the loose planks, made a gentle effort to remove me to the other side, when lo! the planks slipped off, and down went boy and boards together into the midst of the startled com pany below. This sudden turn of events so shocked and alarmed him that he cried out most lustily, which, of course, greatly frightened mother and brought her at once to the rescue to see if her bo}r had been seriousl\7 injured. But her suspense was of short duration, for the nimble use he made of his limbs, in the endeavor to get out of sight as quickl)7 as possible, revealed the fact that no bones were broken. It was prob ably not more than two seconds before he had reached the nearest bed on the lower floor and buried himself under its ample covering, not stop ping for an instant to determine which was the front or which was the rear. He afterwards declared to me that the fall did CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 29 not hurt him in the least, but he made the vigor ous outcry in order to excite sympathy and divert the attention of the company from the very scant wardrobe in which he had so suddenly made his appearance. Among the innumerable things that taxed the energies of us all "was that of securing our win ter's hay for the stock. As at that season of the year many of the family were sick, the haying fell mostly upon the shoulders of my brother Charles, with what little help I could render. THE BEE TREE. One day, as we were on our way to the slough, forty rods, perhaps, west of the boulevard at Midway Park, we passed through the woods, and hearing a buzzing sound above our heads, I looked up and saw bees going in and out of a hollow tree at a most lively rate. It was a bee tree, and it was mine by right of discovery. I was one of the proudest, happiest boys in Linn county. These bee trees were common at that time, and men were very successful in finding them. I only found one more, however, several years after wards, and that was stolen from me before we were ready to cut it down, I having been simple enough to reveal the secret of its location to a dishonest boy of my acquaintance. The mode of finding these swarms of bees was to "line them." The habit of the bee is to fill itself with honey, and then circle around, rising higher and higher, and then darting off in a 30 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND straight line to the tree where the swarm had fixed its home. Bees were often seen upon the flowers, and by little pools of water, and they were watched till they started on their homeward flight. Getting the line in this way from differ ent points of the compass, the location of the tree was easily fixed. In due course of time my bee tree was cut down, the bees were driven away by smoke, and the honey was taken. The net pro duct was four or five pailfuls of beautiful honey. I was extremely fond of honey, and I ate enoug'h at that one time to last me for at least twenty years. I had just been the happiest boy in Linn county, but that night I thought I was the sick est boy in the Territory of Iowa. For years after the sight or smell of honey would make me shudder with disgust. However, in the course of a quarter of century the old taste for it par tially returned; but never will it taste so delicious to me again as it did the night I stood beside those full pails and helped myself, fifty-six years ago. I have learned since that experience with the honey, that a moderate amount of the sweet in any sense of the word, is far better than an over dose of the article. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 31 CHAPTER VI. LIFE IN THE NEW HOME — SUPPLIES FOR THE FAMILY. The supplying of a large family with food and clothing, in those days, was by no means, a small matter. Of course, we were very comfortably provided with clothing, for the first year, that we had broug-ht with us, but the food had to be provided as we had need from time to time. In the matter of food supply, we must remem ber that the settlers in a new country are gener ally proverbial for having good appetites, and, in our family, it must not be forgotten that there were four growing boys, whose voracious appe tites had to be satisfied. And who that has ever had much to do with boys, does not know their astonishing capacities in the way of stowing away provisions? Someone has suggested that a boy is hollow from the crown of his head to the soles of his feet, and that his appetite is never satisfied till the whole cavity is filled. I am a little inclined to doubt this statement, and yet the enormous quantities of food which an averag-e country boy can consume in the space of a few minutes, gives unmistakable proof that there is, somewhere within that boy's body, an aching void that it is not easy to fill. And when you call to mind that there were four such boys in our family, besides three girls, and even the 32 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND parents themselves, all blest with good appetites, it will readily be seen that the matter of food sup ply in a country so remote from the markets, where such things were obtainable, was the most difficult of all the problems that the pioneer set tler was called upon to solve. And yet it "was solved, notwithstanding the fact that it cost an amount of courage, and endurance, and absolute suffering that few at the present day can appre ciate. There were no mills anywhere near us, and, in fact, no grain to grind, even if the mills had been at hand. Nearly everything that we ate had to come from the different landings along the Mis sissippi river. There were no towns to speak of. Provisions were brought up on steamboats, and small and often inadequate quantities were ob tained by the traders at these points for the sup ply of the inhabitants from the interior. Sometimes one of the older boys with an ox team would be gone for many days searching for pro visions along the Mississippi river, and waiting for the steamboat, and then after all would be obliged to return with scarcely enoug-h provisions to last till the next trip could be made. Two bushels of corn meal, with perhaps a few other little articles, were the reward of one trip of two weeks duration on one occasion. The necessaries of life were not to be had in any market. Smoked bacon of very poor quality, when obtainable at all, cost twelve and a half cents per pound. Flour was a luxury very rarely indulged in. In course CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 33 of two years, perhaps, mills began to be erected in localities a little more convenient, but often we had to go to Catfish mills, near Dubuque, and then to Cascade, and other places many miles away. I remember that on one occasion, my brother Charles was gone so long with the ox team in search of provisions, that we all became very much alarmed about him. We had been having some terrible thunder storms, and mother feared that he had been killed by lightning, or drowned in the swollen streams. Day after day she would go to the top of the hill and look, and long for the return of her son, but still no tidings of him came. At last the suspense became so great that she could endure it no longer, and so early the next morning the younger brother, Frank, was sent on horseback to search for the absent boy. He found him near Moscow, at the house of Mr. Brooks, sick "with the fever and ague. Having escaped it the first year, when it did attack him, it was with all the greater severity, so that he was unable to travel. With the help of his brother, however, he was brought home, and our anxieties were re lieved, although the supply of provisions that reached us as the result of the long trip, was very scant, and a new expedition had to be immediate ly fitted out to continue the quest for food. LOCATION OF THE ROAD. The road from Marion to Cedar Rapids was not opened and cleared of brush and logs till 1840. 34 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND It was first located as a county road, and after wards the territorial road, so called, "was laid out over the same route. I remember very well that when the last named road was laid out the sur veyor said that the distance from the river to the foot of our hill was exactly one mile and a half and fifty rods. The location of our house was selected in an ticipation of the fact that it would probably be on the main thoroughfare between the two towns to be built on the Cedar and at the county seat. A further consideration was the fine springs near by and the abundant supply of timber at hand. the First winter. Our first winter in the new home would have been very comfortable, if we only could have had our winter's supplies all in, and had nothing to do but to keep our fire, attend to the stock, split rails, clear off ground for a garden, and a few other little things that seemed to demand atten tion. But unfortunately all our supplies had to be brought sixty miles or more over bleak prairies, sparsely settled, and with unbroken roads, and unbridged streams. This was no child's play. It required pluck and perseverance, and not a little suffering. Still, with all the hardships, we had a good deal of genuine pleasure in those early days when all was new, and strange, and full of expectancy. SOCIAL ASPECT. The people in those early days seemed to have CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 35 an interest in each other and were inclined to be sociable, and the fact that they lived in some cases several miles apart, did not deter them from making frequent visits back and forth. The deepest interest was always felt in the new com ers, and all were ready to extend their hospitali ty to them and render them every possible assist ance in getting them satisfactorily located in the community. The coming of families was a matter of special interest to the pioneers, for the country was al ready over-stocked with bachelors. In the mat ter of hospitality, I think our house was no ex ception to the general rule. Many a tired travel er found shelter and rest under its roof, and many a happy group of visitors were welcomed around its ample fireside. AN INTERESTING VISITOR. There was one visitor, however, whose interest seemed to extend farther, and penetrate deeper than any other. He was a bachelor about twen ty-five years of ag7e, somewhat crude in conversa tion, a little clumsy in manner, and as timid and modest as a young girl. He seemed to be a man of very fair intelligence, kind of heart, and every way well disposed. He was not very animated in conversation, but when he did speak, he usual ly had something that was worth saying, and to which you could well afford to listen. He was not a man to make sport, and he seemed to have but little taste for any kind of frivolity. And 36 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND yet, he was not insensible to a good joke, and at times could laugh quite heartily. But, as a rule, life seemed to him to be a sober reality. He had the reputation of being industrious and frugal, and as honest as the day is long. He was not very quick in anything, nevertheless, every step seemed to tell and every stroke seemed to count. This slow, easy-going, modest young man, as I said, was a frequent visitor at our house, and sometimes his visits were somewhat protracted; not, however, unduly so, for he was never known to neglect his business. Why did he come so often? And why did he seem so reluctant to de part? There was a special attraction for him at our home, and to the great discomfort and annoy ance of my sister Sarah, we boys discovered what it was. It it'as herself. This young man's name was William Vineyard, and I need hardly waste time to say that his con tinued visits at our house, resulted in the dimin ishing of our family from nine to eight, before the arrival of Spring. Sarah Carroll became Sarah Vineyard. We all loved her very much, and it was hard to have her removed from our house hold, even though it was but six or seven miles away. However, the match proved a very happy one, and none of us ever had cause to reg7ret the choice she made. I can recall no wedding in the county earlier than this. They were unfortunate in being burned out in a few months after their Everything about the house was con- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 37 sumed in the flames while they were absent one day, and they had to begin anew. They soon recovered, however, from their dis aster, and Mr. Vineyard became a prosperous farmer, and was always held in high esteem by his neighbors as a man of the strictest integrity. He and his wife shortly after their marriage became active members of the Baptist church at Marion. Mr. Vineyard moved west with his family many years ago, and settled in Marion county, this State, where he died in 1876. Mrs. Vineyard died near Monroe, Jasper county, this State, in June, 1894. Their large family of sons and daughters are scattered in different States from Illinois to Col orado. OPENING OF THE FARM. The spring and summer of 1840 were spent mostly in fencing and breaking up our land. I do not remember that we attempted to raise any thing the first year except garden vegetables, in which we were very successful. Everything that we planted seemed to grow with astonishing lux uriance and abundance. During this summer we made considerable progress in the way of opening up the farm, and in getting about us more of the comforts of life, and so, when winter came, we were better prepared for it. But still for several years those tedious trips for provisions had to be made. 38 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND PLOWING THE GROUND. We had broug'ht into the new country with us such farming tools and implements as we thought we should need in opening and improving our new farm. Among other things we had brought a plow with us, such as we had been accustomed to use on the farm we had left. But we had all the trouble of bringing it for nothing. It was a cast iron plow, and in the loose, mellow soil of this country, we found it to be of no use whatever. It would drag through the ground like a log, sim ply rooting it up a little, but turning no furrow. And so, as soon as we could, we had to get a steel plow from Grand de Tour, 111., which was better adapted to the loose soil of this country. That worked so nicely that it was a pleasure to follow it. Our breaking plow for the prairie, father had made to order. I do not now remember where he had to go to have the work done, but I think it was some distance away. It was of light con struction, with a steel share, and a mould-board made of rods, and was operated with trucks or small wheels. We used two yoke of oxen for the motive power, and my brother and I, aged re spectively, nine and ten and a half years, did the work, while father and the older boys were busy about other matters, such as splitting rails and other heavy work. In breaking up our land near the hotise, which had been covered with a thick growth of hazel brush and small trees, we had to procure a heavier plow and a stronger team, using four yoke of oxen instead of two. For this CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 39 purpose we had procured the heavy plow of Mr. Vineyard, and also the two extra yoke of oxen; or to be more accurate, one and a half yoke of oxen and a cow. The yoking of a cow with an ox to do heavy work, seemed to us very incongru ous at that time, though afterwards, when the California emigration beg'an, it was a ver}7 com mon thing to see whole teams of four or five yoke, all cows. This cow in our team was a very large, fine looking animal, but worthless for milk, and so, of course, was more ornamental than useful. This did not meet Vineyard's ideas as to what a cow should be, and so he determined to make her earn her living by bearing one end of the yoke with her stronger male companion. It proved to be a suc cess. She did her duty quite as well as any ox in the team. But we never could make it seem quite right to subject a cow to such hard usage, and so unbecoming to her sex. CHAPTER VII. WILD FRUIT AND GAME. There were a few things that the country, even in its wildest state, supplied. There were plenty of plums and crab apples, which latter, although not quite up to our ideas of the most delicious fruit, nevertheless proved to be a good deal bet ter than no fruit at all. But the plums were here in unlimited quantities; many of them large and 40 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND luscious, and of a sweetness and delicacy of flavor that would tempt the appetite of the most dainty and fastidious. And then there were haws, black and red, that were prized by some; and there was a fine variety of black cherries that were large and juicy; and w'ild currants and gooseberries abounded everywhere in the woods. Then, too, late in the autumn, after the frosts came, the groves along the streams and on the islands of the river were festooned with wild grape vines, load ed with their purple clusters, inferior, of course, to the cultivated varieties, but nevertheless a very useful fruit to have in such exhaustless quanti ties. Besides these we had several varieties of nuts which we enjoyed ver}7 much: such as hazel nuts, hickory nuts, black walnuts and butter nuts. All of these we were accustomed to gather in large quantities to use during- the winter as often and as freely as we desired. And then there were blackberries and straw berries in their season, which were abundant and very delicious. There was also an abundance of wild game. Deer were everywhere to be found roaming through the woods and over the prairies. There were no hunters in our family, an old indian gun with flint lock being the only fire-arms about our premises. Occasionally, however, they would make a mistake and bring down something with it, but it could not be depended on at all for the supply of our table. Fortunately for us, howev- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 41 er, Mr. N. G. Niece, Mr. Lewis' son-in-law, of whom mention has already been made, was a splendid marksman and an experienced hunter. He would bring us one or two deer at any time as often as we needed venison. He never failed. He knew where to find them, and whenever he levelled his rifle upon one he was a doomed deer. I remember very well one Sabbath day to have counted twenty-seven deer in one flock on the north side of the boulevard near twentieth street. This was after we had fenced and broken up the ground. We could often see groups of two or three or more. Some moonlight evenings they could be seen browsing- within a few rods of the house. We never saw any buffalo or elk in this part of the State, though both were found a few miles west of us. Elk were to be found in the western part of the State up to 1860 or possibly later. Wild turkeys were also very plenty. They would sometimes come quite near the house in flocks, and then they would reveal their where abouts by their gobbling and other sounds famil iar to the hunter, and so become an easy prey to his trusty rifle. Prairie chickens, and pheasants, and quails were abundant, and often formed an important part of our bill of fare. This looks like quite luxurious living, but the trouble was we had too much of that kind of fare. Thinking now of the exceeding delicacy and deliciousness of a dish of quail on toast, we can hardly imagine how the Israelites of old could have ever become 42 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND so disgusted with this palatable kind of flesh. The trouble was that it was too abundant. And that was the difficulty with our wild game. How ever, in those times of extreme scarcity of provis ions, it was a great blessing that, in the woods, and on our prairies, there was so much that we could obtain that would sustain life and materi ally add to our comfort. I must not forget to add also that the river and creeks in the vicinity afforded an abundance of fine fish. There were pickerel, black and white bass, buffalo, salmon, catfish and man}7 inferior varie ties of fish, that could be caught, and which made an important addition to our food supplies. Some of the fish were very large. I have seen catfish caught in Cedar River that weighed fifty pounds, and pickerel that measured three feet long and weighed thirty pounds. THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. In those primitive days this was really the sportsman's paradise. The people who lived here at that time, however, had but little time to in dulge in sport for its own sake. When they hunt ed it was not, as a rule, to g-ratify a morbid de sire to kill some poor bird, or some timid animal, for the sport it afforded, but to get something upon which to subsist. It was no uncommon spec tacle in the fall and winter, to see flocks of prairie chickens fly over by the hundred at a time. Often they would light on the trees in such numbers as CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 43 to make the limbs bend under the heavy weight bf their fat, plump bodies. When the corn was left out after the snow came, which often occurred, the prairie chickens would always help themselves to such an extent as to demonstrate their ability to destroy no insig-nifi- cant part of the crop that had cost such hard labor to produce. In the spring time they could be seen in great flocks sporting- on the prairies, while the air would become vocal with their shrill notes, and their strange cackle, and the peculiar booming- sound for which they are so distinguished. The pheasants, too, were often seen timidly skulking through the brush, or at the evening tide their weird drumming- sound could be heard in the groves near by, like the low mutterings of distant thunder. CHAPTER VIII. OTHER WILD ANIMALS AND REPTILES. While on the subject of wild animals, I must not neglect to speak of other kinds than those al ready enumerated. There always have been abundance of" rabbits which the increasing popu lation has failed to exterminate. PRAIRIE WOLVES. Prairie wolves were very numerous, and their nightly serenades, if not so musical, were at least 44 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND full of weird interest to us new denizens of the wild West. One reason why the wolves seemed to like us so well and to favor us with such fre quent visits and in such great numbers, was the fact that three of our cows died the first winter, and their carcasses furnished an attraction alto gether too strong for their wolf ships to resist; and it is not to be wondered at that all the music in them was brought into requisition, in their jubi lant demonstrations on account of the abundant winter provisions, which were placed at their dis posal. They did not always wait for the night, but often during the day they would make their appearance, while our trusty old dog "Watch" was off guard. Whenever his vigilant eye, (he had but one), caught sight of them, at least one of the number would have to suffer. He would chase the bold intruder until he tired him out, and then, in a hand to hand contest, he was sure to come out winner, and the wolf would have to for feit his life for his rashness. One day I heard the old dog barking about thirty rods north of the house in the brush, and I went out to see what he had. It proved to be a wolf, and both the wolf and the dog seemed quite fatigued. For once the old dog had pretty nearly found his match; still he had no disposition to give up the struggle. The wolf would snap,at the dog with such terrible fierceness that he was compelled to retreat a few steps, and then, as the wolf would turn and endeavor to make good his escape, the CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 45 old dog would dart after him and grab him by the hind legs, and another battle would ensue. As soon as he saw me, he took fresh courage, and he pounced upon the wolf and held him to the ground, and, with a club which I found near at hand, I helped the brave fellow finish the work. For my part of the work, in which I had consid erable pride, I had the skin of the wolf as my re ward. The poor old dog had nothing but a few words of approval and a few friendly pats upon the head, and the consciousness that he had per formed a good and brave act. It may seem a little out of place to talk of the "consciousness" of a dog, but I am sure that no boy could have shown his delight and his pride more clearly than this old dog, after he had per formed this brave feat. WILD CATS. Wild cats were also very numerous. The old doe" treed one a few rods east of the house one day. We heard him barking and we thought he had treed a raccoon, which was no uncommon thing- for him to do. My older brothers broug-ht out the old flint lock g'un, and we all went out to the tree to see the fun. We soon discovered the animal in the crotch of the tree twenty or thirty feet above our heads. The old gun wTas levelled at him and fired, but no coon came down. Again the gun was fired with the same result. A third time the old gun cracked, and the animal was dislodged. He hung a moment by one paw, and 46 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND then fell to the ground. No sooner had he touch ed the ground than the dog pounced upon him, but in an instant he was sent howling away. One blow from that fierce wild cat's paw was too much for any dog to endure. A fourth shot, at close range, finished the monster cat, and we had ample opportunity to examine his enormous claws. Three of his legs had been broken in the skirmish in the tree, and but one paw was left intact, but it was enough to defend himself against all the dogs in the country. One morning- I was sent out into the woods, a mile and a half east of our house, to light the fires under the kettles where we were making sugar. I was almost at the camp at sunrise, when I saw so many .gray squirrels that I stop ped a moment to look at them. It seemed to me that there was a squirrel to every tree. While standing there a moment I heard the brush crack up on the side of the hill a few rods away, indicating the approach of some large ani mal. I looked up and saw a great wild cat trot ting towards me. I was sure that my time had come, and that the sly cat had found me just where she wanted me. But I determined, if die I must, to die as near home as possible, and so turning on my heel I started for home with all possible speed. Wish ing to know just about how much time was left me on earth before I should become food for the wild cat, I turned my head, without slacking my speed, to see how near she was upon me, when. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 47 to my delight, I discovered the cat was running in the opposite direction as fast as I was going towards home. At once my courage returned, and seizing the limb of a tree that lay near me, I thrashed the ground and roared like an African gorilla. Reaching the top of the hill, the cat stopped and looked back for a moment, and then passed on, thinking, no doubt, that she had had a narrow escape from one of the most formidable looking beasts that she had ever beheld. 48 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND At another time my brother and I were playing near the grove where Mr. C. B. Soutter now lives, when all at once we heard a terrible yowl in the bushes. You may be sure that we did not tarry long- in that locality. My brother was al ways considered a fast runner. Few could out strip him in a race. But I think I never saw him make better time than on this occasion, and I be lieve that I came as near keeping up to him as I had ever done in all my life. When we reached the house, we saw the old wild cat come out of the grove on the south and cross the road to the one on the north side, but we were at a safe distance and we were quite willing to give him the right- of-way. THE SNAKES OF IOWA. The snake stories related about the West, were by no means cheering to the ears of those, who in the East, were contemplating- a journey thither, and a settlement in these wild and uncultivated regions. Next to the Indians, these reptiles seemed to be more dreaded than anything- else. The stories we heard in our eastern homes were, doubtless, often exagg-erated, but in reality, we found on coming- to Iowa, that the snakes were quite numerous enoug-h to suit our uncultivated fancies in that direction. The rattlesnakes seemed to be our most dreaded foes, for, although they were not so very large, measuring, perhaps, from two to two and a half feet in length; yet they were CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 51 capable of inflicting- a wound that might cause a good deal of trouble, and even result in death to the unhappy victim of their venomous bite. We were not a little annoyed by these poison ous denizens of the soil, for we often found them crossing our pathway, and they frequently found us crossing theirs, and the meetings were never pleasant. The result "was always a fight, provided we had a weapon at hand of the required length and strength, and the conflicts would usually result disastrously to the snake, although in some cases not until after he had accomplished his ugly work. None of our family were ever bitten by any of them, but we had very many narrow escapes from their poisonous fangs. Our stock, however, was not so fortunate, but there were no fatal results in the case of any of our horses or cattle. So far as the swine were concerned the snakes were powerless to do them any harm, and the old dog knew how to cure himself, and without resort ing to the use of whiskey. His method was to go to the nearest mud-hole and thrust the wounded member into the mud, which extracted the poison and effected a cure. Sometimes we would bring in these hated rep tiles on our loads of hay, but generally they were discovered when the hay was being pitched off, and the pitchfork was found to be a very conven ient instrument with which to dispatch them. And so in the end they would have to pay dearly 52 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND for their ride, and for the privilege of our compan ionship which they had enjoyed. One time when my brother and I were raking up hay, we heard a sharp buzzing noise, and al though it sounded very much like an insect that we had often heard, this was so near, and so loud and sudden, that we were inclined to investigate a little; and so carefully lifting the hay with a rake at the spot where we had just been standing with bare feet, we discovered the venomous creature trying to make his escape. Of course we instant ly made war upon him, and at the end of the con flict it would have been difficult to tell which was the more demoralized the rakes or the snake. The latter, however, must have had the worst of it, for he "was beyond repair, while the rakes were soon put to rights again by father's skillful hand. He was so glad that we had killed the snake that he commended us for what we had done, and proceed ed to make the necessary repairs without a word of complaint. One day I was walking through the grass, in pursuit of the cows, when all at once I stopped as though I had been shot. I had lifted my bare foot and was about to plant it on a rattlesnake, when I discovered the hideous thing all coiled up ready to spring, but the suddenness with which I chang ed my mind,deprived him of his sport, and spared me a good deal of pain, and possibly saved me from death. There being no club at hand this fellow had to be left to the further enjoyment of his sun bath until such time as he thought best CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 53 to engage in some other more congenial pastime. There were, besides these, the little flat headed adders, said to be poisonous, although I never heard of anybody being bitten by them. They certainly looked as though they might be poison ous, but I dare say, that was all there was to it. They looked hideous enough to frighten you, even though they could not harm you. Then there were the garter snakes, the black snakes, and the wa ter snakes, all of them harmless, but none of them desirable pets to have "about you. Another ugly looking snake, though harmless, was the "bull snake," as we called him. These snakes were quite numerous, and they were so large and so repulsive in appearance, that it would make one shudder to look at them. They would often measure from four to six feet long. When attacked, they would show fight, and would make such demonstrations by blowing and running out their tongues, that it would almost make one's hair stand on end. One day we children were taking a walk near 19th street and First avenue, as it now is. The grass had been burned off, and there was nothing to obstruct 'our view, on the clean, smooth prairie. When we had reached a certain spot, we made the discovery that we were in the midst of, a den of these huge reptiles. Their long, squirming, spot ted bodies could be seen all around, basking in the sunshine, and apparently having a good time. I do not think that any of us enjoyed the sight much, but my sister Kate had a special horror of these 54 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND detestable creatures, and so, taking her sunbon- net in hand, she exhibited powers of locomotion that would have done credit to a modern college athlete. She was not long in transporting her self to other scenes, and more congenial surround ings. But my brother and I stood our ground, and as they began to crawl into their holes, we would pound and thrash them with our clubs until they could crawl no further, and then we would wedge them fast in their holes with sticks, lest by some means they might, after all, recover from their wounds and make good their escape. I think, however, that they never recovered from that battle, for we never saw so many afterwards. As the country grew older the snakes of all kinds rapidly disappeared. The swine roamed at large in those days, and they proved to be the most formidable enemies of these reptiles, wheth er poisonous or otherwise. Mrs. Ely has this interesting little snake story to tell: She had rooms at that time over Greene's store, at the corner of Third avenue and First street. The access to her rooms was by an open stairway on the north side of the building. Her brother Henry was passing one day, when something attracted his attention. He called to Mrs. Ely and told her to look down, and there on the third step from the bottom, lay a rattlesnake coiled up keeping guard of the passage way to her apartments. With such a sentinel she was perfectly safe from any outside intruders. She, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 55 however, decided to dispense with his services, and so Mr. Weare summarily discharged and dis patched him at the same moment without ever explaining to him why. Soon after our arrival on our claim, and before the first cabin was built, mother and Sarah thoug-ht one pleasant day that they would like to visit a beautiful little grove just across the slough from our camp. It was, perhaps, thirty or forty rods distant, but the grass was quite tall and they feared the snakes. But they armed themselves with a long pole and thrashed the ground this ,way and that, and so plodded along step by step. Finally, Sarah tired out and mother took the pole, but she, too, soon succumb ed to the severe exercise, and they were compelled to abandon their trip and return to camp. THE WILD FLOWERS. Owing to the fact that there was no stock to trample it down, the grass was much taller and more luxuriant then than it has ever been since. The wild flowers, too, were very abundant and exquisitely beautiful. There were upon the prairies the spring, summer and autumn flowers coming on in regular succession, and so all through the season, from early spring till frost came in the autumn, our eyes were greeted with these scenes of enchanting beauty. The forests, too, with their own peculiar varieties of plants, shrubs, and trees, contributed their share to the floral decoration of this beautiful country. And 56 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND so the flowers, blushing in their loveliness and filling the air with their fragrance, did much to wards atoning for the presence of the reptiles and other things that we had not yet learned to ap preciate. CHAPTER IX. OUR FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE. Our first school house in the neighborhood was erected in the fall of 1842. We had by this time some valuable additions to our community in the way of families, in which there were children large enough to go to school. There was the Lewis family, as also those of Messrs. Lutz, Stucksleger and McKee. The neighbors all seemed to feel the importance of having a school and were ready to unite in the work of erecting a building at once. The location was fixed on our place opposite to and a little beyond our house. By the beginning of winter the school house was finished and the teacher was engaged. This must have been one of the first school houses in Linn county. Our first school teacher was Mr. Putnam R. Lawrence, who had but recently come to Marion. The school passed off very well, so far as I remem ber. We had our spelling schools and our exhi bitions and our debating society, which were well sustained, and which proved to be not only a CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 57 source of improvement, but of a great deal of pleasure. One of our text books was the old "English Reader," whose moral tone, and the excellence of whose selections have scarcely been surpassed by any of the school books published in these later years. Our public exhibitions in the school were, I dare say, hardly up to those of our modern schools, in point of merit, neverthe less I can easily imagine that they mig-ht have been of a much lower grade. I can only recall a few of the pieces spoken. One was the "Night ingale and Glowworm," by Cowper, and another was "The Beg-gar's Petition." This latter was spoken by Wm. Lewis. Emerging from behind the curtain, in the garb of an old man, bent low by the weight of years, and leaning heavily upon his long staff, he began in a' low and feeble tone of voice his sad petition: "Pity the sorrows of a poor old man, Whose trembling limbs have borne him to your door; Whose days are dwindled to the shortest span; Oh, give relief, and heaven will bless your store." The whole scene was so real and so pathetic as to leave a lasting impression upon the minds of us younger children. The teachers in succeeding years were, Mr. Joseph Greene, in the winter of 1843-4, and Mr. H. M. Manley in the winter of 1844-5. FIRST RELIGIOUS SERVICES. Our first religious meetings were held in pri vate houses, but when the school house was 58 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND erected in our neighborhood in 1842, of course, that became the center of this whole region, where all congregations assembled, whether re ligious, literary or political. Our first ministers located at Marion as their center of operations. The first Methodist minister who came on to the circuit was Rev. J. Hodges, sent out by the Rock River Conference in 1840. Mr. Hodges preached his first sermon in Cedar Rapids, as nearly as I can ascertain, in the fall of 1840, the place of meeting probably being at Mr. John Listebarger's cabin on the west side of the river. This is supposed to be the very first pub lic religious service ever held in Cedar Rapids. Rev. S. W. Ingham, still living at the age of eighty-five, with a body and mind remarkably well preserved for a man of his years, tells me that he came to Marion in October, 1841, Mr. Hodges having closed his labors on the circuit in August of that year. Mr. Ingham remained on the circuit two years. He preached occasional sermons at the Carroll school house, at the house of Levi Lewis, and at John Listebarger's on the west side of the river. In the summer of 1843, when there were but five or six settlers, Mr. Ingham writes: "I preached to them three or four times and formed them into a society." It is stated on other authority that the members of the society were Jason Bartholomew and wife, Levi Lewis and wife, Mrs. Julia Ann Cairns, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 59 Thomas Gainor and wife, David W. King and wife, John Listebarger and wife, and Farnum Colby. The place of organization, I believe, was at Mr. Listebarger's house. I remember Mr. Ing-ham well, and all the per sons here mentioned I knew to be members of the Methodist church, although I could not have fixed the date of the organization without the assist ance of Mr. Ingham. Rev. Isaac Searles, it is stated, came in a very early day, but I do not remember to have ever seen him. He was probably the immediate suc cessor of Mr. Ing-ham. Other Methodist minis ters I recall who came in succeeding years, among" whom were Rev. Messrs. Hayden, Maxin, Green up and Twining-, and presiding- elders Reed, Worthington and Bowman. The first Presbyterian ministers that ever visited this country, so far as I am aware, were Revs. William Rankin and John Boal. Both of them visited Mr. Barnet Lutz and preached at his house as early as 1842. Mr. Boal soon after returned East and was for some time located in Cincinnati. Mr. Rankin preached at Mr.. Vardy's house in 1843, or possibly in the fall of 1842. The memo ries of different ones are somewhat conflicting on that point. But he did not stay long in this part of the State. He spent most of his life, however, in Iowa, in the southern part of the State, where he died only a few years ago. 60 pioneer LiEe in and Around I recall another Methodist minister by the name of Howard. He was a very tall man with red hair. His suit throughout was of heavy variegat ed, blue cloth, called Kentucky jeans. The coat was of the Prince Albert style, with extra long skirts. One warm Sabbath day he preached in our school house. His voice was loud, and his manner boisterous. He had not proceeded far when he became very warm, and the per spiration began to start from his heated brow, and so laying his heavy Prince Albert aside, he pro ceeded with his discourse with increased vigor, but with apparently greater comfort to himself, although to critical minds, not quite so becoming ly attired. Another minister of the Wesleyan type used to preach in our school house. He was, no doubt, a godly man, and I believe, a very good preacher. His dress was not after the modern clerical style, but I dare say, more serviceable. His coat and vest were not of the conventional black, but of more durable texture, and of a color less subject to being soiled. His pantaloons were of blue, and closely fitted his slender limbs, showing off to good advantage his large, substantial boots. It was the custom in those days for the minister while waiting for his congregation to assemble to sing a voluntary solo. This minister had a very fine voice, and he took special delight in singing his hymns on a key that was far beyond the reach of common mortals. One hymn that he used to sing with fine effect, and which made a lasting CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 61 impression upon our young minds, began in these wrords: "Time speeds away, away, away, Another hour, another day, Another week, another year, Proclaim Eternity is near." The tune was most strange and solemn, and the high strains came welling up from a heart that seemed to us deeply imbued with the spirit of the Divine Master. Rev. Mr. Maxin, above mentioned, used to make our house his stopping place, and I remember well how it impressed me to see him kneel by the side of his bed to say his prayers before retiring. His voluntary began something like this : "Draw nigh to us Jehovah, In our social meeting." The first line was repeated three times, rising higher and louder, with each repetition, termina ting in more rapid and lively strains with the words, '"'In our social meeting:'''' He was a young man who was attractive in per son, and an interesting speaker. DEBATING SOCIETIES IN THE SCHOOL HOUSE. Of course the literary societies of those primi tive times were for men only, as the women had not yet found out their own capabilities in the matter of public speaking. But among the men, there was a good deal of interest in these public discussions, and they would often come from a 62 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND distance of several miles to attend and participate in them. Among the prominent speakers were Messrs. Levi Lewis, Joseph McKee, Barnett Lutz, the Lewis and Cook boys. I can only recall a few of the questions discuss ed on those interesting occasions. One was some thing like this: "Resolved that the pen is might ier than the sword." Another: "Resolved that the signs of the times indicate the destruction of the Union." Still another: "Resolved that slave ry should be abolished." And then that all-ab sorbing question: "Resolved that there is greater happiness in the pursuit of an object, than in its possession." I cannot recall the lines of argument pursued on these various topics, but a friend reminds me of an illustration used by Mr. Lutz, in connection with the discussion of the last named question. The question, as we can "well imagine, elicited a good deal of interest, and Mr. Lutz spoke on the side of the affirmative, and illustrated his point with the story of an Irishman who had but re cently come to this country. One day this immi grant from the Emerald Isle was passing along and happened to discover a hornet's nest hanging on a bush. He had never seen anything like it before, and he imagined that this snug package, done up in brown paper, as he supposed it to be, contained a prize worth securing. Possibly it contained something good to eat; or what is far better, it might be filled with treasures that CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 63 would place him beyond the reach of want for all time, and so Mr. Paddy made a wild rush for the prize, and he grabbed the hornets' nest and ran away with it, when, shades of St. Patrick ! the hornets swarmed out in an instant more, and near ly stung him to death. Here, said Mr. Lutz, was a clear case where the pursuit of an object afford ed far greater pleasure than the ppssession. How the question was decided by the grave oc cupant of the chair, I do not know, but I think the affirmative must have won. I do not suppose they indulged very much in pyrotechnics of wit, nor in any oratorical displays of eloquence in those days, but I think there was some very sensible talk, for they were men of sound intellects. There was Mr. Joseph McKee, who was in some respects a little eccentric, and very modest, and even diffident in his manner, yet when he got up to speak he always had something worth saying. He would generally plant one foot on the bench in front of him and then proceed to talk, slowly and deliberately, but in a manner that was both interesting and convincing. Mr. Levi Lewis, in his manner of address, was not unlike Mr. McKee, but his words were gen erally well chosen and weighty, and always com manded the respectful attention of his auditors. Mr. Lutz was more fluent of speech, and more polished in manner, and quite apt in his illustra tions, as the above specimen will indicate. 64 pioneer Life in and around mr. and mrs. lutz. Mr. and Mrs. Lutz are still living near the old homestead, in comfortable retirement, their orig inal farm having mostly been cut up into city lots, in Kenwood Park. It is with pleasure that we refer to them as honored representatives of our early pioneers. After a life of fifty-six years in this community, with a record unstained by any unfair or dishonest dealing or act, we have a right to point to them with peculiar pride as important factors in our early history. The example of such people is worth more than gold to any community where their lot is cast. CHAPTER X. OTHER NEIGHBORS. — WILLIAM KNOWLS. Mr. William Knowls was the first settler, so far as my knowledge goes, upon what is now known as Judge Greene's Mound Farm. It is possible that some one claimed it for a short time before him, but certain it is that he was there in 1839. Where Mr. Knowls came from, I am unable to say, but from his general appearance and conver sation, I think he was an eastern man, probably from Pennsylvania or New York. In personal appearance he was a little above the medium height and of light complexion. He CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 65 lived in a little cabin on the south side of the mound, and so far as I remember he lived entirely alone, as was the case with many of the new set tlers in this country. He was a man of very fair intelligence and was considered trustworthy in all his business trans actions. He had a few acres of prairie broken up on the south side of the mound, probably in the spring of 1840, and planted it with sod corn, but as there was no fence around it, and no law to re strain stock from running at large, I think that when the time came to gather the crop there must have been but very little left to be harvested. Of course our stock shared in the plunder, but as it was impossible for us to watch our horses and cattle day and night, and as there was no Keeley cure, or any other device by which we could take away their appetite for green corn, no one was to blame for the destruction of that first crop on the mound farm. And although Mr. Knowls must have felt a little uncomfortable to see the labor of his hands so rapidly going to waste, yet I do not remember to have heard that he ever uttered a word of complaint against his neighbors on ac count of their stock trespassing upon his premises. This is proof enough of his mild disposition and amiable character. Of his fate after he disposed of his claim here I am not advised. For some years, I believe, he re mained in the vicinity, but for many years past I have known nothing of his whereabouts, or as to whether he is living or not. 66 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CALEB HENDRICKS. About a mile and a quarter south of us, in the edge of the timber, there lived another lone bach elor by the name of Caleb Hendricks. It was the same place, that, after passing through the hands of John Stambaugh and John G. Cole, finally came into the possession of Mr. S. C. Bever. Mr. Hendricks was a tall, loose-jointed man, of rather dark complexion, and possessed of a coun tenance not remarkably attractive, but neverthe less giving you the impression that behind it there was a kind heart, honest and true. Mr. Hendricks was here when we came, or he made his appearance shortly after, but at this late date I am unable to state where he came from with certainty, but my impression is that he was a native of Ohio. He was a frequent visitor at our house, and we were always glad to welcome him to our family board. More than once we shared our plain provisions with him, for mother pitied him in his loneliness, and she often cooked up something for him to take home with him. He was a consistent member of the Methodist Church, and was in every way a citizen of the most substantial character, and to whom any community might well extend a wel come hand. After selling his claim here, he loca ted in the northern part of the county, "where he died some years ago. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 67 MR. LEVI LEWIS. Our next neighbor on the south was Mr. Levi Lewis, who came to this country some time in the spring of 1840, I think. He was a native of Pennsylvania, I believe, and he had two brothers and two sisters who settled on the west side of the river ten or twelve miles above this place. My impression is that they all came to this place direct from Indiana. Mr. Lewis was considered quite forehanded for those days. He was a man of intelligence, but very plain in his style of dress and manner of liv ing. His family came some months later. They were always regarded as among our kindest and most reliable neighbors. Mr. Lewis and his wife were members of the Methodist church, and so far as I know, their lives corresponded with their high profession. Their cabin was located near the entrance of Oak Hill cemetery. Soon after his arrival, Mr. Lewis broke up a hundred acres of his land, which lay south and east of Tenth street and Sixth avenue, and extending to the river. For several years my father rented a part of that land until our own farm was sufficiently im proved to require all our attention. Many days of toil were spent by my father and us boys on this ground which is now so densely populated, and where are located some of our most comfortable homes, and where to-day many busi ness houses and factories flourish. 68 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND I am sure that it was generally regretted when, some ten or eleven years later, Mr. Lewis decided to sell out his property and go to Texas. His death occurred in that State many years ago. The change that has been wrought, not only in this town, but in all this county, during the half century that is past, seems to us who have lived here from the beginning, to be simply marvelous. Our nearest railroad station was Ypsilanti, Michigan, and even that short line of railroad was not yet finished. JASON BARTHOLOMEW. Mr. Jason Bartholomew, who came a little later, probably about 1841, lived a half mile fur ther south from Mr. Lewis, his log cabin being situated on the hill near the North-Western rail way track as it is now located. He came here direct from Warsaw, 111., I believe, though more remotely he was from Ohio, according- to my best recollection. Still further back, I think, he must have been from New England, as his language and manner of life seemed to clearly indicate. Mr. Bartholomew and his wife were members of the Methodist church, and were quite active in the performance of their religious duties. Mr. B. was a licensed exhorter and was somewhat fluent of speech. His voice was often heard in public assemblies. He was quite eccentric in his man ner, and very radical in his views. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 69 He was a violent opposer of slavery and a dead ly enemy of secret societies. His house was always open as a resting place for ministers of the Gospel, and both himself and his beautiful, modest wife, made these frequent visitors feel quite at home around their fireside. His extreme views on the subject of slavery and secret societies led, in the end, to his separa tion from the Methodist church, and he sought a home in another branch of the church, whose ten ets were more in consonance with his own cher ished views. He showed his eccentricity in his great par tiality for donkeys and mules. He always had his farm well stocked with them, and the smaller the animal, and the longer his ears, the better he seemed pleased with him, and the more ready was he to ride, or drive him, so that he could show off his prominent points, which, of course, were his ears. But with all his eccentricities, Mr. B. was an honest, well meaning man, and his intention was to do the right thing under all circumstances. After selling his property in town, he moved to another farm near Western, where he lived many years. This farm was also sold, and his last days were spent on a small farm near Kenwood, which he purchased. His wife died at this latter place some years ago, and he was married a second time to a lady whom I have never met. Several years later, he too, passed away. The date of that event I am unable to give. 70 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND OSGOOD SHEPHERD. — THE FIRST SETTLER IN CEDAR RAPIDS. Our next neighbor was Mr. Osgood Shepherd, who occupied the only human habitation on what was afterwards the original plat of Cedar Rapids. His house was built of logs, after the usual pat tern of those days. It was a somewhat squatty looking structure, about 16x20, covered with clapboards, which were held in place by logs on top, with ends protruding at the gables, the cor ners also being somewhat jagged and unsightly. Mr. Shepherd brought his family here, consist ing of his wife and two or three children, and his aged father, sometime during the summer of 1838, he having been here earlier for the purpose of erecting his house. This being the only house on the east bank of the river, it became per force of circumstances, the stopping-place of the new comers, and the few travelers that came this "way. And so, naturally enough, it became known as "Shepherd's Tavern." , Mr. Shepherd was quite a large man, of sandy complexion, and was said to be good-natured in his disposition, and, as might easily be surmised, he was an accommodating and agreeable landlord. Unfortunately, however, his morals were of a low order. While many good people were tempora rily sheltered under his roof, and fed at his table,, everybody believed that he also entertained horse- thieves, and these latter seemed to be his special favorites, and he showed himself ready to shield and encourage them in their villainous work. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 73 It was afterwards currently reported here, that he himself, was finally convicted of horse-stealing in a neig-hboring state, and sent to the peniten tiary. After writing the above account of Mr. Shep herd, I am more than pleased to add that word has come to me from a source that I regard as trustworthy, that in the latter part of his life he became a professor of religion and" was active in church work. That such a change is possible I am most willing and ready to believe, and I can but hope that the good report is true in every particular. Many years ago, in Wisconsin, Mr. Shepherd was accidentally run over by the cars and killed. This first house was located at the foot of First avenue, where now stands the splendid building of the Young Men's Christian Association. Around these premises many exciting scenes transpired. Here the first deaths occurred, and here the first child was born. Here deeds of darkness were concocted; and honest men and women made their plans for founding a town that would prove both an ornament arid a blessing to the surrounding country in the years to come. Mr. Shepherd's father and one of his children died in this little cabin, and from it were borne to their last resting place on the adjacent hill, not far, as some say, from where the Episcopal church now stands. Others think the burial place was near the ground now occupied by the Congregational church. And here, too, a year 74 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND later, perhaps, a little Shepherd first opened its tiny eyes upon this strange world. Across the river on the hills beyond I think there was a birth and a death prior to those just mentioned, but at that time and for many years afterwards, that neighborhood formed no part of Cedar Rapids proper. In the early settlement of a country, there are many questions that come up for solution that we do not now think about. For instance, when a death occurs in a country where there is not a board to be found in the whole region, what is to be done about a coffin, in order that the dead may be decently laid away to rest? This question had to be met more than once in the early history of this place. It is true we had carpenters; the Listebargers were skilled in the use of tools, and they had brought their tool-chest with them, not forgetting even to bring a little varnish, in case of possible need. But the lumber; this was the perplexing ques tion of the hour. Mr. Ellis tells how it was done, when the elder Mr. Shepherd died. He and the Listebargers went up the river and cut down a black walnut tree and split out puncheons which they hewed down with the broad-ax, and then with their planes they dressed them smooth, which, when finished, made very nice looking lumber. This done, the making- of the coffin was comparatively an easy matter. In this case the coffin was made after the old-fashioned pattern, but being- nicely CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 75 varnished it made a very neat and respectable ap pearance. And so even in the very earliest history of our community the dead were decently interred, al though it cost an amount of labor that few now can understand. THE FAMILY WITH GOLDEN HAIR. At one time after the Shepherd family had re tired from the stage of active life hereabouts, a sprightly red-haired woman with two bright lit tle girls with locks of the same golden hue, be came the tenants of this cabin. She also accom modated the traveling public and a few perman ent boarders. Her husband was said to be de tained in an adjoining State, in a building- whose main characteristics were iron doors "well barred, and whose windows had screens, the meshes of which were larger and stronger than those in common use ou ordinary dwellings, and the inclos ure of which was a high stone wall, rather than an ordinary picket fence. One of the boarders at the cabin at this time was a large, fine looking- man, whose aim in life did not seem to be very well defined. He, how ever, soon assumed the duties and responsibilities of landlord of the establishment, and, to all in tents and purposes, became the head of this inter esting little family, whose hearts he had won, and with whom he himself had become so completely fascinated. In the excessive ardor of affection which they had for each other, they neglected the 76 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND little formality of a marriage ceremony, which the usages of g-ood society require of persons liv ing in the relation which existed between these two parties. This state of things became very offensive to our law-abiding citizens, and they decided that such conduct should not be tolerated longer. The result was that this large, fine looking man was one dark night treated to a ride on a rail, long before the railroad ever reached this part of the country, and to a coat of tar and feathers long before a tailor had ever made his advent into this new and beautiful region. This little hint seemed to have the desired effect, and so these denizens of the "Shepherd tavern" sought other and more congenial surroundings. Albeit, the report came afterwards that they had met the requirements of the law in their new" location, and had gained the respect of the people among whom they had cast their lot. The last use to which this primitive structure was put was that of a stable where the Higley brothers kept their horses when they operated the first stage line to Iowa City. The building was finally torn down after serv ing its generation in various capacities for ten or twelve years, to make way for the little brick building, erected by Mr. William Wood, of St. Louis, for a store. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 79 It is a source of peculiar pleasure that I am permitted to present in this place the picture of that very substantial and eminently useful build ing of the Young Men's Christian Association. Occupying- the ground made forever famous as the site of "Shepherd's tavern," the first habita tion ever reared by white men in this place, it affords, perhaps, the most striking contrast be tween the past and present of anything that has ever taken place within our present city limits. The building and grounds are estimated to be worth sixty thousand dollars. The first story is fitted up for stores and offices, the Gymnasitim occupying the extreme rear of the building. The second floor is occupied by the Secretary's offices, the reception and reading rooms, the parlor, the library and auditorium. On the third floor there are the G. A. R. Hall, the boys' school room, the room of the Minister ial Union, ahd one other room occupied as a musi cal studio. The pleasant reading room, with its library and periodicals, its cozy parlor, its commodious auditorium, its fine, well equipped gymnasium, and its unequalled baths and swimming pool, make it one of the most attractive places of resort - for young men to be found in the western country, if not in the United States. It is estimated that 450 men visit this place every day. Its present membership is about 900. There is a night school during the winter months of about 125 young men, where the common 80 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND branches of education are taught, together with stenography, mechanical drawing, etc., all of which is free to the members of the Association. With the religious meetings, the lectures, con certs, social gatherings, and the thousand other little rivulets of Christian influence afforded by this Association, no one can compute the amount of healthful, uplifting influence that this institu tion is exerting upon our city and the community around. MR. PORTER W. EARL. This gentleman, whose name stands at the head of this article, was one of our very earliest set tlers, coming to Marion in 1840, and the follow ing year removing to Cedar Rapids as his perma nent home. Mr. Earl was a native of the state of Vermont. He was a house and sign painter by trade, but he did not follow that line of business here to any great extent. He was a man of unusual intelligence, and al ways dignified and gentlemanly in his deportment. He always figured somewhat prominently in poli tics, being a democrat of the most pronounced character. He manufactured the brick and erected the first brick dwelling house in this city in 1849, on the northwest corner of First avenue and Second street. He also furnished the brick, I believe, for the three-story building erected by Judge Greene at the foot of First avenue, on the south- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 81 west corner, where the Greene Brothers, for many years, carried on their extensive mercantile busi ness. This building was also erected in 1849. He was at one time the owner of a good deal of valuable city property. For some years he was engaged in the mercantile business in the Frank lin block, but in this he was unfortunate, and in the end was a heavy loser. The latter part of his life was spent in compar ative retirement, his health being too delicate to permit him to engage in any active business. Mr. Earl and his wife were both members of the Methodist church. His death occurred April 14, 1884. His estimable wife being a sister of Col. W. H. Merritt and of the first Mrs. Judge Greene, was a lady of intelligence and refinement, and always held a high place in the respect and esteem of our people. She departed this life June 10, 1876. Of their children only Mary Adelaide, the wife of Mr. J. O. Baxter, remains in the city. She is well known in this city, and is held in the high est esteem, as a lady of refinement and culture, and one of the most talented musicians in this country. The oldest son, Merritt, died many years ago. Harriet, now the wife of Charles A. Taylor, lives in Peoria, 111. ; William resides in Guthrie, Okla homa, and Ella, now Mrs. J. Thomas Dalton, lives in Chicago, 111. 82 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND MR. AND MRS. JOHN L. SHEARER. Mr. and Mrs. John L. Shearer came to Cedar Rapids in 1842. They first lived in the log house built by Mr. John Young, on the river between Fourth and Fifth avenues. Mr. and Mrs. Shearer, with their family, we regarded as valuable acquisitions to our commu nity. They were the first family who became permanent settlers of Cedar Rapids, that of Mr. Shepherd, of course, being regarded as transient and temporary. Mr. Shearer was a man of intel ligence, and he always had a hearty welcome for his friends wherever he met them, either at his own house or elsewhere. He was very industri ous and persevering in whatever he undertook. One of the first frame houses in Cedar Rapids was built by him on the lot now occupied by the Grand Hotel, on First avenue and Third street. The studding and rafters were made of poles or small trees which he worked out with chalk line and broad-ax, with his own hands. As lumber was still so scarce, it was no easy matter to build a house, even of moderate dimensions; but Mr. Shearer persevered till he had his dwelling- com pleted and ready for occupancy. For some years he served the town in the honorable capacity of justice of the peace, he being the first to hold that office in Cedar Rapids. He and his wife became highly esteemed members of the First Presbyte rian church, after its formation, and rendered valuable aid during its early struggles for exist ence. Mr. Shearer held for many years, and up CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 83 to the time of his death, which occurred Feb. 20, 1859, the office of ruling- elder of the church. Mrs. Shearer was a woman of sterling worth in our community. She was possessed of a fine intellect and a tender sympathizing heart. In time of sickness or trouble of any kind, she could always be relied upon to give counsel and help such as few women are capable of rendering. She knew very well from experience what the hard ships and trials of a new country meant, but she bore them with a courage that was little less than heroic. She was one of the few women who knew how to adapt herself to her environments, and to be mistress of the situation however trying it might be. She had many warm friends among the e&rly settlers, and her society was soug-ht as one who was a safe adviser and a true friend. She was one of those characters that always adds to a community something better than wealth, whose coming is "welcomed as a benedic tion, and whose departure is mourned with sin cere regret. She survived her husband only a few months, < and on the 9th of December, 1859, she ceased from her earthly toils and sorrows, to enter upon the rest and reward of the redeemed. Mr. and Mrs. Shearer were the parents of seven children, three of whom died in infancy. Cyn thia died at the age of ten years at Canton, 111. Of the three who lived to mature years, Mary M. died Jan. 20, 1890, in Patterson, N. J. 84 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND For several years she was an honored and suc cessful teacher in our public schools. For this vocation she seemed eminently fitted. Even in her childhood her tastes seemed to run in that direction, and her favorite employment was to gather about her, her younger companions of the neighborhood and form them into a school and teach them. Her health, however, was never very firm, and after some years of active service in the school-room, her bodily strength ^gave way, and she was compelled to abandon her work that she loved so much. She, however, was spared a num ber of years after this, exhibiting a character of rare excellence, and of most earnest and active piety. Elizabeth J., who was for some vears actively engaged in the work of city missions in the East, is now a resident of this city, her home being with her aunt, Mrs. Daniels. John W., the youngest of the family, who is a practical printer by trade, is connected with the Daily Republican of this city. Mr. Shearer was born in Palmer, Mass., Feb ruary 12, 1804. Mrs. Shearer was born in Derby Line, Vt., April 11, 1812. They were united in marriage at Otsego, Mich., May 3, 1836. The following extract from a letter written by Mr. Shearer, from Bloomington, (now Muscatine), Muscatine county, Iowa Territory, February 25, 1839, will show how things appeared to him in CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 85 that early day. The letter is addressed to his brother-in-law, Henry Weare, at Allegan, Mich. After expressing some reg-rets at not hearing from the home friends, he says: " We are all enjoying good health and spirits and hope soon to receive the same intelligence from our friends in Allegan. The prospects of this place bid fair to make this one of the most essential points in this coun try, owing to its location on the river, and the fact that it is surrounded with a soil surpassed by none in the western country; likewise the seat of government for the future State of Iowa is to be located about the first of May next within the limits of Johnson county, which will be about twenty-five or thirty miles from this place, and this will be by far the nearest point to the Mis sissippi river. That county is now thinly inhab ited, and there is yet a broad field for improve ment. Should you think of coming to this coun try, the sooner you come the better, as the coun try is fast filling up. I have a claim of a half section of land about three miles from this place which is not yet in market, where I intend making improvements as soon as the ground is sufficiently settled. The Mississippi river was closed over with ice as early as the 15th of December last, sufficient to be crossed by teams, but a thaw commenced about the middle of this month, and about the 20th the ice started in the river, and is now en tirely broken up, and the inhabitants are daily 86 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND looking for steamboats to arrive from St. Louis and the country below." The letter is folded in the usual way of those early days and sealed with a wafer, and the sug gestive .25 on the upper right-hand corner, indi cating the amount of postage which was then charged. MR. JOHN VARDY. In July of the year 1841, Mr. John Vardy came to Cedar Rapids. Of his birth-place I am not apprised, but I think it was in the State of Vir ginia. He was a cabinet-maker by trade, but was proficient in any kind of carpentry, as he built his own house in 1842, which was the first frayne building erected in the town, and it stood on the corner of Third street and Sixth avenue. Mr. Vardy had a wife and several children, Martha, afterwards Mrs. J. G. McLeod, and Henry, now living in Texas, being all that I can recall. Mr. and Mrs. Vardy were christian people, and when the First Presbyterian church was organ ized in 1847, they were numbered among its char ter members. The first Presbyterian preaching ever conduct ed in the town was by the Rev. William Rankin, in the fall or winter of 1842, at Mr. Vardy 's house. Here, too, the first Sabbath school was organ ized in 1843 or 1814, Mr. Vardy acting a part of the time as superintendent, and Mr. Joseph CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 87 Greene, Mr. Alex. L. Ely and Mr. Barnet Lutz, also serving at different times in that capacity. In the same year the first school ever opened in Cedar Rapids, "was taught in this house, Mrs. Vardy being the teacher. This good woman died in June, 1846, having served her family, her community and her God well. In 1849 Mr. Vardy was married a second time, and in 1856 the family moved to Texas, with the exception of the eldest daughter, Martha, who was at that time the wife of Mr. John G. McLeod, of "whom mention has been made elsewhere. She is now the wife of Mr. J. A. Malum, and their home is in Eustis, Florida. It is from her that these dates are principally gathered. It will readily be seen from this brief outline that, while this family were plain, unpretentious people, they were nevertheless made of the right kind of material, and they were very useful mem bers of the community, and did their full share in the way of setting right examples, and instilling right principles in the minds of the young, and in laying the foundations deep and strong for our city's future prosperity. MR. N. B. BROWN. The first and most prominent figure that stands out before us in the matter of improving the water power of our city, is that of Mr. Nicholas B. Brown. He came to this place in 1840, and purchased the land which contained the origi- 88 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND nai plat of Cedar Rapids. It was not until sometime during the summer of 1841 that he be gan active operations towards the improvement of the water power. The first dam was a very weak and temporary affair, made of brush or small trees with stone piled upon them. The brush and trees "were brought down the river on flat boats from the neighboring islands, and the stone was quarried from the river bottom on the rapids. It was a long and tedious job to build it, and when completed, it was a poor make shift, and always caused trouble whenever there was a rise in the river. However, it answered for a begin ning, and when the saw-mill was completed in 1842, and the waters of the Cedar began to make its machinery hum, it was the beginning of a new period for our town and the harbinger of better days to come. Mr. Brown's means were limited, and it was with difficulty that he could procure the money with which to pay the faithful toilers who had helped him in this new enterprise. A grist mill was added in due time, and later, in 1846-7, I believe, the woolen factory was built. The one dominant characteristic of Mr. Brown was his great tenacity of purpose. He was not an aggressive man, but rather the reverse. But he had the gift of hanging on, and this, doubtless, was what brought him his fortune at last. His loose business habits involved him in endless liti gation and caused him an immense amount of needless trouble. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 89 There can be but little doubt that many a shrewd business man, standing in his place, and possess ing his rare advantages, would have made vastly more out of the splendid property which he con trolled. However, it must be admitted by all, that Mr. Brown did some excellent work as a pioneer settler, in making a beginning in a new country, and under many adverse circumstances. In my personal relations with Mr. Brown, I always found him courteous and gentlemanly. In the later years of his life, I seldom met him, not being a resident of this city during that period. But I am told that a decided change came over his life a number of years previous to his death, and that he became a member of the Methodist church, and a regular and interested attendant upon its stated meetings, and a liberal contribu tor towards its support. He was born in New Jersey in 1814. A few years before coming to this state, he had resided in Kentucky. His death occurred Sept. 16, 1880. His first wife was Miss Catherine Craig, who died many years ago. His second wife's maiden name was Miss Susan Emery. Her home is still in the city, although, much of the time she is ab sent. She is a woman of irreproachable charac ter, and is, and always has been, conspicuous in works of benevolence and charity. Few can show a better record. 90 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND She is a member of the Methodist church, and for many years has been one of its most faithful workers. MR. ROBERT ELLIS. — THE OLDEST SETTLER. The oldest settler now living in this section of country, is Mr. Robert Ellis. He was born in Westmoreland county, Penn., Jan. 20, 1817. He and Mr. O. S. Bowling came to Iowa together, but Mr. Bowling stopped for a time in Cedar county, and Mr. Ellis came on alone to Cedar Rapids. While stopping in Cedar county for a short time, Mr. Ellis heard of a few settlers further up the river, and so he decided to extend his explora tions to that new region. After spending the night with Mr. Michael Donahoo, at Sugar Grove, on the morning of May 8, 1838, Mr. Ellis started on foot to follow the trail up the river. Reaching the bend in the river at the ppint now known as "the narrows," he found that the water was so high that the trail was covered, and he was obliged to make his way through the woods and brush, and over the hills as best he could. At length he reached a high point where he caught sight of the broad, beauti ful expanse of rolling prairie, where the future city of Cedar Rapids was to be built, but of whose present magnitude aud importance he had not yet the slightest conception. Descending from the hill, he came in sight of a little bark-covered hut, near the spot where now CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 91 stands the old reaper works. As he drew near the rude habitation he. could discover no sign of life within. Following a well-beaten path to wards the river, he soon discovered the prostrate form of a man, whom, at first sight, he supposed MR. EOBERT ELLIS. to be dead, his face being hidden from view. Startled at the sight in the midst of the silence and solitude that surrounded him, Mr. Ellis hard ly knew which way to turn. But he finally rais ed such a shout as made the hills echo with the sound. In an instant the apparently dead man 92 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND stood upon his feet, more startled than his discov erer had ever thought of being. For a moment he probably thought that his end was at hand and that the Indians were about to take his scalp. It must have been a pleasant surprise when he made the discovery that it was only a white man like himself, who, although a stranger, he could nev ertheless welcome as a brother of the same race and language. Certain it was that Mr. Ellis was more than delighted to find that the lone strang-er in the wilderness, was a live man and not a lifeless body. This man's name was Philip Hull. It seemed that he had spaded up a little piece of ground near the river and was planting a few garden seeds that he had brought with him, and becoming tired, he laid down on the ground and fell asleep, where he remained until aroused by the young adventur er who had just arrived. Mr. Ellis remained with him a few days and then crossed the river and made his claim a mile and a quarter above the point where now stands the First avenue bridge. This has been his home ever since, although he spent some time during the first decade in the Minnesota pineries and several years in Califor nia. A little after they first met, the two men enter ed into partnership and bought a breaking team of four yoke of oxen, and a large plow, of Mr. William Abbe. Neither of the young men had any ready cash to pay over to Mr. Abbe, and not CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 93 a dollar in money passed between the contracting- parties. They agreed, however, as an equiva lent for the team, to split ten thousand rails, and to break up seventy-five acres of prairie. Those who know anything about the breaking up of new ground, understand that a plow-share will soon g-et dull in the new ground where it encounters so many roots. In order to keep it sharp a file is carried along and every few rounds the share is turned up and filed. But with constant wear, it finally becomes so dull and blunt that it has to be heated and hammered out thin by a blacksmith. But there was no blacksmith shop here at that time, and so our young pioneers had to invent some way of their own. There being plenty of dry elm limbs at hand, which make a very hot fire, they proceeded to heat the steel share, and then hammer it down to the requisite thinness, using for an anvil an iron wedge driven into a log. This was probably the first blacksmithing ever done in this part of the country. It seems now almost incredible, as we look out upon our wide-awake city with every trade repre sented many times over, and listen to the ceaseless hum of the hundreds of factory wheels, and hear the constant din of business life, that the man still lives in comparative health and vigor, with the flush of youth scarcely faded from his cheek, who participated in scenes like that which I have just described. And yet such is the fact, as all those who know Mr., Ellis can testify. Mr. Ellis has always been a thoroug-h-going 94 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND business man, and has been engaged in many dif ferent branches of industry. His life has been a very busy one. He built flat-boats, in an early day, and ship ped wheat to St. Louis and New Orleans. The statement has gained currency that these boats were built in 184-1, and probably the error will be perpetuated down throug-h the years to come. This date, however, was prior to the erection of mills in this region, and although Mr. Ellis has always been regarded as a man of great enterprise, he would have hardly undertaken to build three or four flat-boats without lumber. The true date was 1846, according to his own statement. o. s. BOWLING. Sometime during the summer of 1838, Mr. O. S. Bowling came into the county and located on the west side of the riyer, opposite the present site of the famous T. M. Sinclair Packing House. He was born in 1812, in Westmorland county, Pennsylvania, a region of country which, as will appear from this record, has furnished some of our most substantial and honored citizens. Mr. Bowling was a man of dark complexion, with keen, black eyes, and of a stature somewhat above that of ordinary men. He was one of those persons that cared but lit tle for the fashions and foibles of this over-criti cal age in which we now live, deeming it, no doubt, of far greater importance to look after the inner rather than the outer man. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 95 He was a man of a good deal of intelligence, and was always regarded as an honest and highly respected citizen. He was the first man, I believe, that ever held the office of constable in this community, and in later years he held various offices of public trust, in all of which, he performed the duties imposed upon him with conscientious fidelity. He secured quite a large tract of land, and held on to it till it became very valuable, a portion of it being laid out into lots upon which the south ern part of this city is built. He had the g-ift of continuance. Having located his claim, he re mained upon it the rest of his life. Although Mr. Bowling was not a member of any church, so far as I know, yet his high moral character and honesty of purpose were never questioned. He was always regarded as one of our most substantial farmers. His death occurred December 25, 1883. In 1849 Mr. Bowling was married to Miss Fra zee. It was never my pleasure to be personally acquainted with Mrs. Bowling7, nor with any of her five children. But their reputation is quite in keeping' with that of the honored husband and father. Thomas Gainor and David W. King arrived in Cedar Rapids on the 18th of June, 1839, and located on the west side of the river, Mr. King on the bank of the river opposite the island, and Mr. Gainor on the rolling prairie a half mile further back. The former was from Westmoreland coun ty, Pennsylvania, and the latter from Michigan. 96 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND MR. DAVID W. KING. Mr. King was an energetic and intelligent man, and, although he was afflicted with a kind of hip disease that rendered him very lame, he showed himself to be a man of pluck and determination. He established the first ferry across the river which he operated for many years, and until the erection of the first bridge rendered it no longer necessary. The town on the west side of the river for many years bore the name of Kingston, in honor of its first settler. Mr. King- was for some time justice of the peace, an office which he seemed well qualified to fill. He lived to see great improvements on both sides of the river, and by his industry and the wise management of his business affairs, he was able to secure a very comfortable competence of this world's goods. He and his wife were members of the Metho dist church. He died in the autumn of 1854, leaving behind him the record of an honest man and a good citizen. Mrs. King, venerable with years and highly honored and esteemed by all who know her, still survives, and makes her home with her son, Mr. William King, who is a prominent business man on the west side of the river. MR. THOMAS GAINOR. Among the good, honest farmers of an early CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 97 day, we mention Mr. Thomas Gainor. He was a man of great tenacity of purpose, and he always clung to the home where he first located till near the close of his life, when the infirmities of ad vancing years made it necessary for him to retire from the arduous labors which a farmer's occu pation demand. He was somewhat old-fashioned and non-ag gressive in his character and habits of life, but he was always considered one of our good, sub stantial men, such as the pioneers were glad to welcome among their number. He appeared to be a man of strong constitution, and seemed to be well adapted to meet the trials and hardships of a new country. A great bereavement came to his home at a time and under circumstances that made it pecu liarly hard to bear. His wife, after giving birth to a little girl in May following her arrival here, was, a few days later, called to exchange her new home in this world for one beyond the boundaries of earth. It was the first death in this region of country among the white settlers, and it cast a gloom over the whole community. The little child for whose life she had laid down her own, was the first to be born in this vicinity. It survived, however, but a few months and then followed its mother to the grave. Mr. Gainor and his wife were honored members of the Methodist church. For his second wife he married one of the sis ters of Mr. Levi Lewis, of whom mention has already been made. 98 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND Mr. Gainor's last years were spent in retire ment at his home within the city limits on the west side of the river where, at a good old age, he passed away a few years ago. THE LISTEBARGER BROTHERS. About the first of April, 1839, there came from Pennsylvania, Westmoreland county, two broth ers, John and Joseph Listebarger by name, who settled on the west side of the river. Later in the season an older brother, Isaac Listebarger, came, and he also located on the west side. John and Joseph had a little cabin located above, and Isaac afterwards built one below, where the dam was built in after years. They all had claims, and all did something in the way of farming7. Isaac and Joseph, however, being carpenters and joiners, worked a good deal of the time at that business. They were the first carpenters to locate in Cedar Rapids. They were all good, honest men, and had the utmost confidence and respect of their fellow7 citizens. Isaac and his wife became charter members of the First Presbyterian church in this place when it was formed in 1847. John and Joseph "were members of the Metho dist church, and all of them were men whom any church might gladly welcome to its communion. Isaac Listebarger died about the year 1853, and John passed away in 1861, on his farm in Fairfax township, where he had lived for many years. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 99 Only a few years ago Joseph, the last of the brothers, departed this life at his home a mile and a quarter west of the river, on the Vinton road. MR. FARNUM COLBY. Mr. Farnum Colby came to the place in 1839, and made his claim on the south side of the bluff on the west side of the river, a mile north of First avenue bridge. His land probably included a part of the town now known as "Time Check." Of his nativity I am not apprised, but he was probably from Pennsylvania. He, too, was a member of the Methodist church and, I believe, was a candid, good man. He left here in an early day and located in Jones county, near Olin, where he died a few years since. 100 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER XI. OUR MERCHANTS — THE FIRST GOODS SOLD IN THE TOWN. The first dry goods ever sold in this city were, without doubt, by Mr. Osgood Shepherd. Of this I am reminded by my sister, Mrs. Charles Weare. I do not think, that Mr. Shepherd pre tended to keep store, but it became known that he had some very choice calicoes, and perhaps some other goods which he offered for sale. The goods were of a fine quality and but few of the pioneers could afford to indulge in anything so expensive. But finally our neighbor, Mr. Mason, made a little "raise," aud decided to treat his wife to a new dress. She was a small woman and in feeble health, and besides, she had a bouncing boy of a few weeks or months old, who did not aid her much in regaining her strength. And so Mr. Mason was careful to provide for her the best and easiest conveyance that he could procure, to take her to "town," as we began to call it, where she could select the material for her new gown. Covered carriages were not in fashion in our community then, and of course Mr. Mason was too conservative and discreet to introduce such an innovation at such a time in our history, and so he had to do the next best thing. The outfit on this occasion consisted of a yoke of oxen and sled, a chair being securely fastened Going Shopping. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 103 on top of the primitive vehicle, upon which Mrs. Mason was seated with the baby in her lap, and so they proceeded on their way to the point of destination two miles or more away. The sled had the advantage of being easily mounted, and then, should the passengers happen to fall off, they would not have far to go to reach the ground. You will readily surmise that the speed was not great, and especially when you understand that it was warm weather, in May or June, and the ground was bare. And so Mrs. Mason procured her dress and her husband paid for it on the spot, in potatoes, these constituting the "raise" that he had made on his new farm. As to where and how Mr. Shepherd procured the goods no one ever knew, nor was it necessary. It may be that they were received from some of his customers in payment of their bills for board and lodging. It was enough to know, however, that the goods were there and that they were for sale and that these were probably the first goods ever sold in the tozcn. This must have been some time prior to 1842. MR. JOSEPH GREENE, THE FIRST MERCHANT. Sometime in the spring or summer of 1842, Mr. Joseph Greene first came to this county, locating for a short time a few miles east of Marion, and spending some months working in that neighbor hood, he finally came to Cedar Rapids in the sum mer or fall of 1843. 104 , PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND It is said that his brother William was here in 1840, but his stay was of short duration, for he soon went to Burlington and engaged in business. Mr. Joseph Greene, therefore, was the first of the Greene brothers to locate permanently in this place. In the winter of 1843-4, he taught school on the Carroll hill, being our second teacher in the log school-house near my father's residence. I believe he taught a very good school, but pos sibly he was a little lax in discipline, he being too good-natured, and too ready to frolic with the boys, to inspire much awe in the minds of his pu pils, who might have been inclined to be a little refractory. He was a whole-souled kind of a man that everybody seemed to like. He was very sociable in his nature, and always enjoyed a good joke. It was seldom that anyone could get ahead of him in telling stories of the marvellous and incredible. He generallv had something ready that would be a full match for \ it, if not surpass it in its astounding details. It was in the summer of 184-4 that he opened and offered for sale his first stock of goods, his brother George being associated with him as his partner, and probably furnishing the principal part, or all of the capital. The style of the firm I believe was Greene & Brother. This store be ing the first ever opened in Cedar Rapids, was located at the corner of First avenue and Second street, in a frame building erected by Hosea W. Gray, of Marion, who at that time owned an in terest in the town. This building- was very rude- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 105 ly constructed, and was unfinished when Mr. Greene entered it. It had two rooms, the front being occupied by the store, and the rear being used for religious services and other public gath ering's. The stay in this building was of short duration, for in that "same year their new store was erected at the corner of Third avenue and First street. This was a far more commodious building than anything- in this vicinity at that time, and for a series of years it was one of the most popular and widely known stores in the county. In 1846 Mr. William Greene came from Burlington and joined the firm, and for many years the three brothers carried on a very exten sive and prosperous business. To Mr. Joseph Greene, however, belongs the honor of successfully inaugurating the new enter prise, and placing it on a permanent basis. It was in this building that the first postoffice was established, and Mr. Joseph Greene had the honor of being the first postmaster of Cedar Rap ids. Mr. W. W. Higley furnishes the following par ticulars with respect to the early mails: Before the postoffice was established here, the mails were brought from Marion by one of the neighbors, in a handkerchief or pocket. It was in 1847 that the weekly mail route was established between Dubuque, Cedar Rapids and Iowa City. Mr. Higley remembers well when the first United States mail arrived. The carrier was a little old man on horseback, pinched and withered under 106 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND life's heavy burdens, but he was looked upon with as much interest as though he had been an Eng lish lord. In fact he came with credentials from a govern ment which we venerate far more than that of England itself; he was commissioned by the gov ernment of the United States of America. This was an event of the greatest interest to the people here, and it marked a new epoch in the history of Cedar Rapids. To the early pioneers, this first United States mail meant even more than the great goverment building, which is just now being occupied as the postoffice, means to the busy denizens of our now populous city. It is no wonder then, that this first mail was received with such demonstrations of delight, and that this little old mail carrier should have been regarded with feelings of respect and veneration. I do not know what was Mr. Greene's salary as postmaster, but I think I am safe in saying that it was considerably less than S3, 100, the amount received, I am told, by the present incum bent. However, he had the same high honor, and both he and the people were just as conscious that he held an office under appointment of the greatest and grandest government under the sun. Mr. Greene was a professor of religion, and in his earlier life he was a zealous member of the Methodist church, though in after years, when the Episcopal church was formed in this place, he identified himself with that organization. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 107 He was a native of Buffalo, and I believe, came from that city directly to Iowa. He was married to a daughter of Mr. Harvey, who purchased the Bartholomew homestead at the lower part of this city. The date of this marriage I am unable to give. Mr. Greene died April 4, 1868, lamented by a large circle of friends whom he had gathered about him in his busy and somewhat eventful life. Mr. W. W. Higley tells a little story about the way some of the Yankees took to avoid the enor mous letter postage of those early days. They would' take a newspaper and write all the mar gins full, using buttermilk for their writing fluid. Of course the writing did not show until thor oughly heated before the fire. This process pro duced certain chemical changes which brought out the writing and made the paper yield up the secrets of its copious marginal references to the innocent receiver of the mysterious missive. It is not to be supposed for a moment that any of the good people of this section were ever guil ty of defrauding the government in that way. But it was those uncircumcised Yankees at the other end of the line who did it, in order to avoid paying the twenty-five cents which every letter would cost them. In these days of cheap postage, of course, there is no longer any temptation to deprive Uncle Sam of any portion of the revenue which comes from our most admirable' postal service. 108 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND MR. CHARLES R. MULFORD. It was in the spring of the year 1845 that Mr. Charles R. Mulford, of New York, or its suburb, Hoboken, N. J., made his appearance among us with a small stock of goods, which he opened and offered for sale in a little room in Mr. John Var- dy's house, at the corner of Third street and Sixth avenue. Mr. Mulford was a small man of light, sandy complexion. He had a voice that was somewhat feminine in its character, but a little too shaky and affected to be always agreeable. He was polite almost to a fault, and his dress was gener ally neat and stylish in its make-up. He appear ed to be a keen, wide-awake business man, but rather too close and precise in his dealings to be very popular. His great fault was his inordinate love of strong drink. In 1849 he went to Califor nia, where in a few years he fell a victim to his insatiable appetite. MR. SAMUEL HOOK. Mr. Samuel Hook was one of the earliest of our merchants so far as I can recall, being outranked in time only by Mr. Joseph Greene and Charles R. Mulford. He was a native of Staunton, Va. He had been clerking for Mr. Cleveland, a merchant of Tools- boro in this State, previous to his coming here. Finally Mr. Cleveland furnished him with a wagon load of goods and sent him to Cedar Rap- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 109 ids to dispose of his little stock. The date of his coming I have been unable to fix with certainty, but after a good deal of inquiry of his wife and brother still living, and comparing notes with our oldest settlers, I think it could not have been earlier than 1846, he being only twenty-one years of age at that time. The room occupied by Mr. Hook was said to have been in one end of the John Young cabin, reference to which has already been made. The stock, of course, was not very extensive, being drawn by one span of horses and an ordin ary wagon. However, I dare say that the stock was large enough for the room in which it was displayed, and quite adequate, with the two other stores here at that time, to meet the wants of our limited population at that early day. As near as I can now ascertain, he did not con tinue in business alone but a short time, but closed out his stock to Mr. Mulford and engaged with him as clerk. Mr. Hook was a tall man, well developed phys ically, and of a pleasant, open countenance, and withal, affable and courteous in his manners. For some years he was clerk in the store of L. Daniels & Co. In 1855 or '56 he moved to Janesville, this State, where he continued for several years in the mercantile business. Later he returned to his old home at Toolsboro, where he died August 10, 1868. His wife, Mrs. Jane Noble, was the daughter of Mr. Arvin Kennedy. 110 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND She is a resident of this city, and has always been held in the highest esteem by all who know her. She has been a member of the First Pres byterian church for many years and has always taken an active part in its benevolent work, and has ever been a regular and faithful attendant upon its stated meetings. MR. WILLIAM GREENE- Among the justly distinguished men "who came here in an early day, there are few, if any, that occupied a higher place than Mr. William Greene. He was a native of Staffordshire, England, but was brought by his parents to this country while yet in his infancy. He was reared and educated in Buffalo, N. Y. For some years prior to his coming to Iowa, he was engaged in the book-binding business in De troit, and for several years after coming to this country, he pursued the same calling at Burling ton. In 1846 he came to Cedar Rapids to make it his permanent home. On arriving here he at once associated himself with his brothers in their widely increasing business. Calm and dignified in his deportment, clear headed and broad-minded in his business rela tions, he soon made his influence felt, not only in the firm of which he was a member, but all over this region of country. He was more reserved and select as to his associates and companionships than his brother Joseph, and with certain classes CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. Ill less popular, perhaps; but he had a keener intel lect and a deeper insight into business affairs; and whoever dealt with him soon found out that they had to do with a man that thoroughly under stood his business in all its minutest details. He had great faith in the town, and, like his brother George, he had larg-e expectations for its future development. His spacious residence, erected more than twenty-five years ag'o, in the centre of the double block bounded by Fourth and Fifth avenues, and Eighth and Tenth streets, was thought to be at the time, a most extrava gant outlay of money in a town such as ours then was. But it only goes to show that he was a man of g'reat faith in the future prosperity of the town, and was correct in his fore-cast of its destined importance. After going out of the mercantile business, Mr. Greene engaged in real estate, and then in rail roading, taking heavy contracts in company with his brother, the Judge, in this and other States. He was also at one time engaged quite exten sively in banking, and in his later years was interested in silver mining in Colorado. In 1844 Mr. Greene was united in marriage to Miss Louisa M. Higley. They were the parents of ten children, only three of whom the writer knew in the days of their childhood, and all of these three have passed away from the earth. They were George H., Sefer P., who became the "wife of Mr. Peter Martelle, and William W. Of the 112 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND younger sons and daughters I am not able to write, as no data are at hand concerning them. Mrs. Greene was a woman full of vivacity, and always kind and cordial in her manners towards the many friends whom she had drawn to her. Her house became noted for its hospitality, and it was often the centre of the most joyous festivities. Their large family of sons and daughters, made the home of Mr. and Mrs. Greene a place where the young people loved to go, for they knew they would have a most hearty welcome and an enjoya ble time. Mr. Greene died March 29, 1887. Mrs. Greene passed away after a somewhat lin gering illness, May 7, 1892. And thus the last bond that held this once happy family together was broken, and the children were scattered. And now, too, the old house has been torn down, and other buildings are being erected in its place. MRS. PRUDENCE BAKER. Our history of early times would be far from complete, did we not make honorable mention of the mother of the .Higleys and of Mrs. William Greene, Mrs. Prudence Baker. She was one of those noble, whole-souled, moth erly women that everybody loved to meet. Al ways cheerful and happy herself, she made others happy about her by her sunny countenance and kind words. In social circles she was always a welcome vis itor, and added life and good cheer to the com pany, by her presence. CEDAR RA'PIDS, IOWA. 113 At a good old age, on June 4, 1878, she finished her work and ended her life's journey. THE HIGLEY BROTHERS. Mr. Henry Higley, the eldest of the four brothers of the name, came with the rest of the family to Bloomington, 111., sometime in July, 1841. Leaving' the family there, he came on to Marion for the purpose of exploration, and look ing out a place for permanent residence. Return ing to Bloomington, the whole family came on to Marion, arriving in April, 1842. In 1844, he and his brother Harvey, came to Cedar Rapids. His native place was West Granby, Conn. He was twice married, the first wife having died in 1847. His second wife, whose maiden name was Hannah E. Emery, is still living in Florida, her only son having recently died there. Mr. Higley was a man of a good deal of enterprise. He and his brother Harvey engaged in heavy freighting to Indian trading posts in the far west, when in the wildness of the country, travel and transportation were very difficult, and often attended with dan ger. He and his brother owned and operated stage lines to Dubuque and Iowa City. In 1849 he went to California, where he remained a year or two and then returned to Cedar Rapids, where he again resumed business with his brother in which he continued up to the time of his death, which occurred Aug'ust 6th, 1868. The summons came in the form of apoplexy which terminated his life very suddenly. His father, Mr. Abial 114 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND Higley, died soon after their arrival in Marion, October, 1842, they having reached there the pre ceding April. Mr. Harvey G. Higley, the next younger brother, was a native of the same town and state as the above. As already indicated the two brothers were intimately associated in business up to the time of the elder brother's death. For some years he was engaged in the mercantile and livery business. Other lines of trade and busi ness activity, however, occupied his attention at different times, the latter part of his life being devoted mainly to the improvement of his prop erty, and in the erection of business blocks which are still prominent land marks, and ornaments in our city. His death, like that of his brother, was very sudden. It occurred in May, 1878. His wife, whose maiden name was Annah Bishop, is still a highly respected resident of our city. Of their nine children only five survive, the eldest son re siding in Central America, two are engaged in business here, and the two remaining sons are in business elsewhere. The two younger brothers, Wellington W. and Mortimer A. Higley have for many years been numbered among our most highly honored and successful business men. The former was born in West Granby, and the latter in Hartford, Conn. They came to Marion at the same time with the other members of the family. CEDAR RAPIDS, loWA. Il5 MR. W. W. HIGLEY. Few, if any, of the names of our pioneers are more widely known than the one that heads this brief article. He first came to Cedar Rapids in 1844. From the time of his advent here, his life has been one of constant activity in various business enter prises. He was engaged in an early day in the lumber trade, and then for some years was inter ested in the livery business and stage lines with his brother H. G. Higley. He is best known, however, in his connection with the extensive hardware store of Higley & Brother, on First Street, he and his brother M. A. being partners and owners of the establishment. This was, for many years, the leading hardware store of our city, and the amount of business performed, and the manner of conducting it, placed these gentle men in the front rank of our merchants. About three years ago this branch of their business was closed up, and at present their large real estate and banking interests occupy their attention and command all their time. Mr. Higley has lived in this city the longest time consecutively, of any of our citizens. This has been his home without any break or inter mission since he first came in 1844, making an aggregate of fifty-one years up to this time. He was married to Miss Jane E. Farnum, April 8, 1856. They are members of the Second Pres byterian church. They have three children, 116 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND Jessie E., the wife of Dr. Kegley, Charles W., of Minneapolis, and William M., pursuing his studies at Andover, Mass. MAJOR M. A. HIGLEY. This gentleman, the youngest of the Higley brothers, came to Cedar Rapids to reside in 1848, making his home with his sister, Mrs. Albert Kendall. His business life began at Waverly, in this state, where he remained for about two years. After that he spent a year or two in Kansas, and then returned to Cedar Rapids, which has been his home ever since. In the time of the war he enlisted in his coun try's service, acting in the various posts of his assig-nment with that characteristic fidelity and promptness that won for him the highest respect of both officers and men with whom he was asso ciated. For many years Mr. Higley has been promi- inently connected with our educational interests, having been a member of the school board since 1875. He is now president of the Merchants Na tional Bank, a position which he has held since 1883. He was married Feb. 19, 1863, to Miss Lucy L. Sheets. The death of Mrs. Higley, in the prime of her womanhood, which occurred March 30, 1892, caused a wide-spread sorrow throughout our com munity, on account of the high regard in which she was held. She was a highly valued member of the Second Presbyterian church. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 117 Their children were four in number, three daughters and one son, the latter having died May 1, 1889. One daughter, now the wife of W. W. Dymond, is living in Honolulu, Sandwich Is lands, another, the wife of Mr. A. F. Matschke, is residing in Minneapolis, and the third is pursu ing her studies in Wellesley college, Mass. Maj. Higley was married a second time Feb. 4, 1895, to Mrs. Jennette R. Nicholas, of Omaha, Neb. The honorable career of these brothers and their families, has won for them a position of re spectability and esteem second to none of the fam ilies of our city. Of the other members of the family, their moth er and their sister, Mrs. William Greene, are mentioned elsewhere. The only other member of the family was Mrs. A. Kendall, of Marion, who died there some years ago. MR. ADDISON DANIELS. I have written mostly so far about men and events in and about Cedar Rapids in the first ten years of this country's settlement. This course has not been strictly followed, however, as a number of persons outside of these immediate limits have received some passing notice. It is to be hoped that some one more able than I will undertake to perform for Marion what has been attempted for Cedar Rapids in these few pages. Mr. Addison Daniels, though never a resident il& pionEEr life in AnD around of this place has, nevertheless, had large property interests here from a very early day, he being one of the nine original proprietors of the town, and for this reason, if for no other, deserves honora ble mention among the pioneers whose names have found a place in these records. Mr. Daniels was born in Medway, Massachu setts, November 13, 1813. He came to Marion in 1840 and opened his store in a log building which he had erected for that purpose. It was not a very extensive affair, the building being but 20x22 feet in size. The goods, too, were of a somewhat coarser and cheaper grade than those we now find offered for sale in our first-class mercantile houses. Nevertheless, this store became the great commercial centre of the county, and the settlers came in for miles around to obtain such articles of merchandise as they needed, and to get their mail, as Mr. Daniels was the postmaster. Mr. Daniels' business rapidly increased, and by judicious investments and close attention to his business, he soon rose to the first rank of the busi ness men of the county, a position which he con tinued to hold up to the time of his death. He was a man of remarkable business tact, prompt and pleasant in speech and manner, and always polite and cordial in his daily intercourse with his fellow-men whom he met in his business and social relations. His life was such as to command the highest respect of all who knew him. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 119 There was one little circumstance in his life, which to some of his cotemporaries, seemed some what unfortunate, although it may not have ap peared so to him. I refer to the fact that he never married. As a result of this, some young lady "was deprived of a good husband and a happy home, and he was deprived of a charming little wife with all the wealth of love and good cheer which she could have brought to his hearthstone. However, it was not the result of necessity that he thus lived but of his own deliberate choice, and so of course no one had any right to interpose any objections. In his business life, Mr. Daniels was eminently successful, and he died possessed of a large for tune. His death occurred at his home in Marion, June, 1883. MR. PRESTON DANIELS. Intimately associated in business relations with Mr. Addison Daniel^ was his next younger brother, Preston, "who came to Marion in 1846, and has resided there ever since as one of the active business men of that place. He was born in North Brookfield, Massachusetts, December 16, 1819. To the great regret of his many friends, dur- in the last two years, Mr. Daniels has met with heavy losses, and the accumulations of many years of hard toil have slipped from his grasp. Some years after his arrival in this country he 120 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND was united in marriage to Miss Mary A. Keyes. They have three children, all living at Marion, Addison L., Caroline M., (now Mrs. Benjamin F. Mentzer) and Miss Adaliza. MR. LOWELL DANIELS. Conspicuous among the early merchants of this place stands the name of Mr. Lowell Daniels. He began business here in 1846, being in partner ship with his eldest brother. Mr. Addison Dan iels, one of Marion's pioneer merchants. He was subsequently joined by his brother Lawson, and for many years this famous mercantile house was carried on under the firm name of "L. Daniels & Co." Mr. Daniels was a born merchant. With a quick, discerning mind, and "with a ready and willing hand to meet the many and varied -wants of his customers, it was not strange that he should become, as he did, one of our most popular and successful business men. One of the secrets of his popularity was the pleasant and cheerful way in which he met the many and diversified char acters with whom he was thrown in contact. His wide-awake, pleasant countenance and his cordial "good morning," set even the most timid of his rural customers at ease, and prepared them for the business of the hour. In 1854 Mr. Daniels was united in marriage to Miss Harriet Weare, and their home was always considered among the most pleasant and attrac tive of our city. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 121 Mrs. Daniels, (now the wife of Mr. Lawson Daniels) is still one of the highly honored resi dents of this place. Mr. Daniels was a man of fine taste, and every thing about his premises was always a model of propriety and good order. His hopeful disposition and his natural kind ness of heart brought sunshine into his home, and good cheer to its inmates. He was a great ad mirer of fine horses, and always kept two or more of these noble animals which he enjoyed driving, and which he always treated as his pets. There was true mourning in the city, and it was a sad day for all the country around when it was announced that Lowell Daniels had passed from our midst to the unseen world. He died November 7, 1876. It made a sad break in our social and business circles when he was removed from us, and outside of the family circle as well as in it, there were many who felt stricken with a personal bereave ment in his death, from which they did not soon recover. MR. LAWSON DANIELS. One of our most active and highly respected business men, and one who still stands at his post in the busy life of our city, is Mr. Lawson Dan iels. He was born in North Brookfield, Mass., Oct. 4, 1827. He came to Iowa in the fall of 1848, and, as already announced, entered into partnership 122 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND with his brother Lowell. In fact the four broth ers were all intimately associated together in their extensive business operations, but the twp just mentioned carried on the business in this place, while the other two concentrated their labors in Marion. Mr. Lawson Daniels has been engaged in the mercantile trade the larger part of his life, but for several years past his large real estate and banking interests have absorbed his time and en ergies. Although skilled in every department of mer cantile pursuits, Mr. Daniels' specialty has al ways seemed to be that of bookkeeping and gen eral accountant. It has been in this department that his active brain and tireless energy have al ways found their chief employment and their greatest usefulness in the realm of his business activity. By close and careful application to business, and by honorable dealing, he has secured an ample fortune which his many friends fondly hope he may long be spared to enjoy. He was married to Mrs. Harriet Daniels, July 26, 1883. Mrs. Daniels was born in Derby Line, Vermont, Aug. 1, 1829. Educated in the celebrated Mount Holyoke Female Seminary, South Hadley, Mass., and hav ing enjoyed the advantages of the most cultiva ted society since she completed her educational course, and having traveled extensively in her own CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 123 country, and more recently making a prolonged tour with her husband and nieces through Europe, Mrs. Daniels has a mind well stored with a fund of information and anecdote, that always makes her a welcome visitor among her many friends, and well fits her to preside over her model home, whose hospitable doors are ever open to her fre quent callers, and many a pleasant social gath ering. Mr. and Mrs. Daniels are highly esteemed members of the First Presbyterian church. Their home, one of the most comfortable and attractive, both without and within, in the city, is located on the southwest corner of Second avenue and Seventh street. MR. J. P. CHARLES. I have special pleasure in speaking of another man whose history in Cedar Rapids dates back as far as April, 1847. I refer to Mr. J. F. Charles. He was born in Preble county, Ohio, October 2, 1827. In 1849 he went to California where he engaged in mining. Meeting with some considerable degree of success, he returned to Cedar Rapids in 1854, and commenced his active business career. He first engaged in the lumber business in part nership with Mr. Isaac W. Carroll, under the firm name of "Charles & Carroll." Later they entered extensively into the wholesale and retail grocery and provision trade, which they followed for many years quite successfully. 124 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND The business relations between these two men were always of the most amicable character, but the condition of Mr. Carroll's health necessitated his retirement and the dissolution of the firm as it had hitherto existed. Mr. Charles continued the business for a num ber of years afterwards, when he finally sold out, and for some years past has been engaged in the orange culture in Florida, although his home is still in this city. There is no man that has ever done busines here who has made a better record for honest dealing and sterling integrity of char acter than he. For many years he and his wife have been mem bers of the First Presbyterian church, greatly beloved and honored, Mr. Charles holding the office of ruling elder. Their children were Edgar A., now in Minne apolis; Fred W. Ballard, Washington; Frank C,, Chicago, traveling, and James K., in this city. MR. ISAAC W. CARROLL. The time and place of Mr. Carroll's birth, and the time of coming to Cedar Rapids, have already been mentioned in the early part of this record. For some years after leaving the farm he was busily employed about the mills and factories of this place; these constituting the centre around which clustered the chief business activity of our town. Later he owned and operated a line of stages to Waterloo, but afterwards disposed of these CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 125 interests and went into the lumber trade in part nership with Mr. J. F. Charles, under the firm name of "Charles & Carroll." Subsequently the same firm went into the wholesale and retail grocery trade, and for many years the business interests of these two men be came identical. After pursuing this line of trade for fifteen years, Mr. Carroll's health became seriously im paired on account of close application to business, and he sold out his interest to Mr. Charles, aud went into the dairy business at Kenwood where he had a considerable tract of land. Disposing of his dairy some four years ago, he has since rented his property there and purchased a home in the city, and is now employed as Field Agent of the Evening Gazette. On January 26th, 1858, he was married to Miss Mary Steadman. They have had eight children, the three older having died when quite young. The children still living are, Bessie (now the wife of Mr. T. L. Fleming), residing in Berke ley, California; Charles D., in the county Treas urer's office at Marion; Frank, connected with the Consolidated Tank Line Co., in Kansas City, Mo.; Willie H., druggist clerk, and Carrie, re siding with their parents in this city. Mr. and Mrs Carroll are members of the First Presbyterian church. 126 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER XII. THE PHYSICIANS OF EARLY TIMES. The physicians were not generally far behind the vanguard of the first settlers of the new country. There were few settlements that had to remain long without at least one or two of the followers of Esculapius, who were ready to min ister to the wants of those who were suffering from the various diseases to which human flesh is heir, in all lands. THE QUACKS. But unfortunately, some of them, perhaps I may say many, were uneducated and unskilled in that most important and useful profession which they proposed to practice. They pushed their way into the wild west, where diplomas were not at all necessary to insure large patronage and lib eral returns for their services. Some of them were entirely independent of drug stores for their supplies. They patron ized the woods and prairies, procuring their remedies from original sources, lobelia and thor- oughwort, always playing a conspicuous part in their practice, as well as hot water and steam baths. Later it became quite the fashion among them to style themselves Eclectic physicians which gave CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 127 them a wider range, and permitted them to use medicine from any and all schools of medical prac tice that they deemed best adapted to their purpose. But the fact was they knew but very little about medicine of any school, and their knowledge of the human system was still more limited than that of medicine. One great blessing to the com munity was, that these self-made doctors did not stay long in the country. As soon as well ed ucated physicians began to come in, these quacks would generally pass on to other fields where a fresh supply of victims awaited them. Some times it was said that a young man would take it into his head to be a doctor, and so he would go and study a short time with one of these quacks, and then would start out on his own hook and pass himself off as a full-fledged physician. A case of this kind was said to have actually occurred in our own community. A young man of high aspirations, but of rather limited mental calibre, decided to enter the medical profession. But he had neither the means, nor the desire to take the prescribed course in a medical college, and so he chose to take a short cut, in order to reach the object of his ambition. A student in one of our primitive schools, at a public exhibition, upon one occasion, touched him up in this unique but impressive style: Without mentioning any name, of course, he said of this young sprig of a medical practitioner, that, "He studies medicine six weeks or less; goes 128 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND over to the Iowa river and sticks up a shingle by a roadside tree, Doctor Jehoikam Fishawk, M. D., Practitioner in all the arts of physic; The good Samaritan, Who now need be sick?" The reference was so pat that everybody knew at once, the person whose character and conduct it was intended to describe. Possibly this young man may have studied a trifle longer than the time above indicated, and it is equally possible that he may have studied less, but certain it is that he studied a very short time, and with a man who himself was uneducated; and he .actually did begin practice in the neighbor hood just indicated. THE . i EDUCATED PRACTITIONERS. — HENRY RIS- i ,.¦ TINE, M. D. Having spoken of some who pretended to be physicians, and who were unworthy of the name, let it not be supposed for a moment that they were all of that character. We had some excellent physicians, in a very early day. Dr. Magnus Holmes came to Marion, I believe, in 1841, and in 1842 he was joined by his brother-in-law, Dr. Henry Ristine. Both of these men were well-read physicians, and men of high moral character, and they enjoyed the g-reatest respect and confidence of the people among whom they practiced. Dr. Holmes died in a year or two after his arri- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 129 val, which caused a wide-spread sorrow and re gret all over the country. Dr. Ristine continued the practice of medicine in Marion for thirty-two years. During the war he served about one year as the surgeon of the 20th Iowa volunteer infantry. He was a native of Indiana. In 1873 he came to Cedar Rapids to reside, where he continued to practice his profession with unabated zeal up to the time of his death. He was one of those wide-awake, progressive men, that kept abreast of the times in his profes sion. Several times he attended courses of lec tures in the best institutions of the land, keeping himself well informed as to the newest and best remedies, and the most approved methods of treating the various diseases prevalent in our country. At the time of his decease he was by far the oldest medical practitioner in the county, and none were more highly respected than he. His death occurred April 25, 1893. Mrs. Ristine, who was a noble-minded, chris tian woman, a true helpmeet to her husband, and a bright ornament to society, died January 23, 1893. She was a member of the Cong'regational church and an active worker in every good cause. There were four children born to these parents. John M. Ristine, M. D., one of the busiest and most successful of the physicians of our city; Nellie M., the wife of Mr. Z. T. Mullen, of Min neapolis; Miss Mary C, and Belle M., the wife of Mr. O. C. Wyman, also of Minneapolis. 130 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND JOHN F. ELY, M. D. There is no man now living, of the early settlers in Cedar Rapids, who is more widely known, nor more highly respected than Dr. John F. Ely. He was born in Rochester, N. Y., June 25th, 1821. From his third year, his time "was mostly spent in school, and he was fitted for college at the early age of eleven years. It was then decided that he be placed on a farm in Stockbridge, Mass., where he remained three years. Thence he went to his father's home in Western Michigan, and was there engaged in various pursuits up to the year 1844. He loved hunting and fishing, devoted some time to sur veying and engineering, held several official posi tions in the town and county, and in the years 1843-44 was the owner and publisher of a demo cratic paper of some little note. From 1844 his attention was devoted to the study of medicine and surgery. He went to N. Y. in 1845, and graduated at the College of Physicians and Sur geons in 1848. After the death of his brother Alexander, in July of the same year, he came to this place to settle up the affairs of his estate, and from that time to the present he has been prominently identified with the growth and pros perity of Cedar Rapids. Immediately on coming here Dr. Ely took posi tion as one of the most scientific and well equip ped physicians in the state, and his services were in great demand. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 131 In difficult cases of surgery and in many com plicated diseases that prevailed, his counsels and advice were always sought, by his brethren of the medical profession. His large and growing busi ness interests along other lines, interfered seri ously with the practice of his profession, but his skill as a physician was so highly appreciated that he found it quite impossible, for many years, to lay aside his medical practice. During the war he was commissioned as sur geon of the 24th Iowa Vol. Inf. , where he served for about one year, when broken down in health by the exposures and hardships of the service, he was compelled to resign his commission and re turn to his home. The Doctor has been, in years past, largely interested in real estate, railroad construction and other public enterprises, but of late years his health has been such as to require him to lay aside all his business cares, his son John S. Ely, assuming these duties and responsi bilities. For many years the doctor has been a ruling elder in the First Presbyterian church, and his activity in all its various branches of benevolence is well known in the community. His deep inter est in Home and Foreign Missions has always been one of the marked characteristics of his life. He was united in marriage to Mrs. Mary A. Ely in January, 1853. Of Mrs. Ely, it seems almost superfluous for me to speak here. She is probably more widely known, and more universally esteemed than any 132 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND other woman that has ever lived here, whether in early times or in later years. No one has done more to mould society and to establish benevolent and christian institutions in our city than she. Being a member of the First Presbyterian church, her influence and her labors of love were never confined within the narrow denominational lines of her own church, but every church, and every good cause has always found in her a ready and efficient helper. Many of her benevolent acts have been too im portant and too far reaching to be concealed, but multitudes more of her kindly and helpful acts, performed without display, have never come to light. The sick have been ministered to, the sorrow ing have been comforted, the poor who have had to struggle with poverty, have been assisted, and the desponding have been encouraged, and yet so little show was made of it that no one can tell the extent of these benefactions. Many a young man, and many a young woman have been helped in their endeavors to obtain an education, when failure would have been the re sult without her timely aid. Mrs. Ely is still a resident of our city, although much of the time she is absent during the ex tremes of heat and cold, in climates better adapted to her somewhat infirm condition of health. That her life and health may long be spared is the earnest wish and prayer of her hosts of friends, all over the country. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 133 Dr. and Mrs. Ely were the parents of two children, John Stoney, and Mary Dickinson. The last named, a young lady of great promise and rare attractions, died November 6, 1880. Mr. John S. Ely is one of our prominent young business men, well and favorably known in our community where he has always lived. E. L. MANSFIELD, M. D. Prominent, not only in the medical profession, but among the business men of Cedar Rapids, for many years, was the well-known figure of Dr. E. L. Mansfield. He was a native of Athens, Ohio, and a gradu ate of the Western Reserve College, Cincinnati. Having practiced medicine in his native State about two years, he came to Cedar Rapids in 1847 to make it his permanent home. At one time he was in partnership with Dr. S. D. Carpenter, and in later years with other phy sicians; but for many years he practiced his pro fession alone. While some of his partners early turned aside into other channels of business, he continued the practice of medicine with unflagging devotion for thirty-five years. During the latter part of his life, I believe, he gave less attention to the practice of medicine, and devoted more time to business matters in other channels. He operated to a considerable extent in real estate, and .erected some large buildings which are at this time recognized as ornaments in the 134 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND city. He was connected with the banking and manufacturing interests of the city, and the ample fortune which he secured, is proof suffi cient of his business sagacity. One characteristic of the doctor was, that he was always very lenient with his patients who were unable to pay for the services he had ren dered them. This I can testify to from my own personal knowledge of some cases. And then I have this from his daughter, Mrs. C. J. Deacon, which is a good illustration of this trait in his character. When Mrs. Deacon was an infant only a few days old, the doctor had a call to go to Boone to amputate a man's leg. It was before the days of railroads in that direc tion, and the doctor had to drive his horse and buggy all the way there and back. Months and years rolled away and the bill was never paid. Finally, after twenty-one years, and the infant daughter had grown to womanhood and was mar ried, the bill was paid without interest, and the doctor invested the amount in a silver pitcher, which he presented to his daughter, to pay for leaving her so suddenly and on such a long journey, when she had only looked out upon this strange world but three or four days. He died very suddenly, May 26, 1887. One day he was riding out in the country north of town on business, and when near the residence of Mr. Wm. Hunter, some three miles out, Mrs. Hunter observed the horse and carriage go by and then suddenly stop under a tree, and surmis- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 135 ing that something was wrong, she went out to see what was the matter, when to her dismay, the doctor was found to be quite dead. The cause of his death was supposed to be apoplexy. S. D. CARPENTER, M. D. Dr. S. D. Carpenter came to Cedar Rapids in 1849. He practiced medicine for some time in company, first with Dr. Mansfield, and then with Dr. S. C. Koontz. During our late war he served his country as surgeon in the army, continuing in the service from the beginning of the struggle till the close. In later years, however, he gave up the prac tice of his profession and devoted his energies to the building of railroads. For many years after leaving here he resided in Ottumwa, of this state, but finally moverl to Louisiana and engaged in the lumber business. On July 6, 1850 he was married to Miss Sarah Weare, who came to Cedar Rapids in the autumn of 1846. This lady had enjoyed the advantages of a good education and was one of our earliest and best school teachers. In society she always held a very high place. Refined and genteel in manners, and intelligent and lively in conversa tion, she was always a bright light in the social circles in which she moved. She died after a protracted and painful illness, in St. Louis, March 8, 1889. 136 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND She had always been an active member of the Protestant Episcopal church, and took a lively interest in its prosperity. Dr. and Mrs. Carpenter were the parents of four children: Catharine G., wife of the late J. Asbury Taylor; Mary L., wife of A. G. Harrow; Sarah A., wife of William D. Elliot, and Ralph Weare, who died August 22, 1891. The daughters are all residents of Ottumwa, Iowa. dr. j. w. TRAER. On the 4th of March, 1848, Dr. J. W. Traer, then a young man of 23 years, came to our town to begin the practice of medicine. He studied for sometime previous to coming here with Dr. Henry Meredith, in Rochester, Ce dar county, of this state. He was born in Knox county, Ohio, Sept. 7, 1825, and came to Iowa in 1845. The doctor boarded in my mother's family for some months after he came here, our home at that time being in the John Young house below Fourth avenue, on the river bank. We found him to be a man of intelligence and integrity of character, and he has always held a high place in the estimation of those who were associated with him in the days of long ago. On November 4, 1849, he was united in mar riage to Miss Marcia W. Ferguson, daughter of Mr. James Ferguson, of whom mention is else where made. He moved to Vinton, Benton county, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 137 of this state, Sept. 9, 1851, where he and his esti mable wife still reside. He continued to practice medicine for four years after he went to Vinton, when he turned his attention to other branches of business. For some time he was engaged in banking and real estate, and "was also postmaster for several years. He has always enjoyed the respect and confi dence of his fellow-citizens. He and his wife are members of the Presby terian church. Eight children were born to them, of "whom six are still living, William, residing in Bur lington; Florence E. Perine, in Vinton; George E., in Colorado; Glen Wood, in Chicago; James F., in Vinton, and Amos C, in LaSalle county, Illinois. Jessie F. died in October, 1886, and Mary L. Ramage died a short time ago in this city. 138 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER XIII. MR. JOHN G. M'LEOD. The name of John G. McLeod is remembered by the early settlers, as one of our most promi nent men, and a very useful citizen. His claim included the big spring which has always borne his name, and which is located two and a half miles north of this city. It is one of the finest springs I have ever seen, and I am not aware of anything in Iowa that surpasses, or even equals it, in the amount and clearness of the waters it discharges. There may be others just as fine, but although I have traveled over the state quite extensively, I have not yet seen them. The water power of one of the first saw-mills in this county was furnished by that spring. I am not sure but that this mill was the first in the county. Certain it is that no one antedated it very many months. To Mr. McLeod belongs the honor of erecting that mill. It was an event of the greatest impor tance to the pioneers of this section of the coun try. Few can understand at this distance of time the absorbing interest with which the peo ple watched the progress of this new enterprise.1"-) It was in 1841, two years after our arrival, that this mill was built. I remember well when Mr. McLeod came to invite our family to the raising. After extending the invitation to father and the older boys, he turned to mother and said: "You CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 139 must come, too, and bring all your dishes with you." The thought never seemed to enter his mind to ask if it would be convenient for her to go; but he used the imperative mood with an emphasis that seemed to admit of no excuse or failure. Of course, mother was only too happy to go with her dishes and cooking' utensils, to gether with what provisions she could supply, and do all she could towards providing a good dinner for the busy workmen who were assisting in this new and welcome enterprise. She had a hearty laugh, however, afterwards over the earn est and summary way in which Mr. McLeod com manded her presence on that important occasion. Sometime after the saw-mill had been put in operation, Mr. McLeod decided to put in a small run of stone, which he did. The stones were only eighteen or twenty inches in diameter perhaps, but they served a very good purpose for "crack ing corn" as they called it. This mill afforded us our first corn meal manufactured in this region, and it was a matter of no small interest to the sur rounding inhabitants, when it was set in opera tion. The meal was probably not of the finest grade, but it was fresh and sweet, and the people were too glad to get it to be critical in regard to its coarseness. A few years later, Mr. McLeod erected a larger and better mill that was capable of manufacturing both meal and flour of very good g'rades. This mill did a very large business and proved a great blessing to the people all through this region, and for many miles around. This 140 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND property in after years passed into the hands of Mr. N. B. Brown, who converted it into a distil lery, to afford drink to those who were not satis fied with the cool, limpid waters of the spring. A few years later this famous mill afforded food for the flames, and so passing out of existence, many more hearts rejoiced than when it was first erected. Mr. McLeod in after years moved into the nor thern part of the state, where he continued in the milling business up to the time of his death, which occurred many years ago. c c COOK. Captain Charles C. Cook, being one of the earliest settlers of the country, deserves honora ble mention in these reminiscences of primitive times in Linn county. He was a half brother of the writer, and came to the country at the same time. Personally, Mr. Cook was a man of fine phys ique, six feet and one inch in height, and in his earlier years, of a ruddy countenance, his hair of a dark brown, and his constitutional make-up such as made him remarkable for his strength and power of endurance. In his later years, how ever, his health gave way under the pressure of the extreme hardships through which he had passed, and for years before his death lie suffered a great deal from his bodily infirmities. He was a man of unbounded ambition and un conquerable energy. He never favored himself CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 141 in the least, and he never shrank from any under taking, no matter how arduous, if he saw that the interests of the town and the general public good could be advanced by it. He performed an immense amount of hard work for which he re ceived no remuneration, except the consciousness that he had acted honestly and earnestly for the best good of the community in which his lot was cast. His education was limited, but he had a bright intellect, and he had learned many valuable les sons in the school of experience, of which he made good use in his busy, restless life. He was nat urally very diffident, but his intense interest in public affairs overcame this natural bent of his character to some extent, and not unfrequently his voice was heard in public assemblies advoca ting those measures and principles which he deemed were for the interests of the people. The railroads, the public highways, the man ufacturing interests, the schools and the churches always found in him a warm advocate and a ready helper. In the opening up of the boulevard from Cedar Rapids to Marion, he took a very active part, la boring incessantly from the time of its inception, till it became an accomplished fact. In the time of the war he raised a company and entered with enthusiasm into the service of his country. Here, as he was wont to do, he forgot himself in his anxiety for the welfare of his men, and in a few months after he entered the service 142 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND he was stricken down "with a disease that came very near terminating his life. His wife, however, g'oing' to his relief "was able finally to get him home, but with a constitution shattered beyond recovery. But his unconquerable will kept him moving about until a few days before his death. His busy life and his well fought battle, came to an end March 5, 1880. His wife Emily, daughter of Hon. L. M. Strong, Marion's first settler, survived her hus band only a few years longer. She died August 8, 1889, honored and loved by all who knew her. She and her husband were members of the First Presbyterian church. Mr. Cook was a native of Niagara county, New York, his birth occurring May 2, 1822, and his wife was born in Ohio. They were the parents of four children, Georg'e F. and Henry A., who were twins; Kittie and Charles. George having' enlisted in the regular army, died a number of years ago in Dakota, and Kittie died several years later in this place. The whereabouts of Charles is unknown, but he is supposed to have died on his way to California several years since. Henry A. is the editor and publisher of the Denison Bulletin. HON. GEORGE GREENE. On coming- to this county, Mr. Greene first located at Ivanhoe, where he taught school one CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 143 winter. In 1840 he was admitted to the bar and soon after located in Marion. In 1841 he bought an interest in the lands upon which the city of Cedar Rapids now stands. It was somewhere about 1842 or '43 that he pur chased the mound claim of Mr. Joel Leverich. He afterwards went to Dubuque and practiced law in partnership with Judge- Dyer, his brother- in-law, Mr. Edward Merritt, I believe, being also associated with them in business. It was not until 1851 that Judge Greene came to Cedar Rapids to take up his permanent resi dence. He was of English birth, his place of nativity being Staffordshire, England, where he was born, April 15, 1817. Coming to this country with his parents when but a child, he was reared and educated in west ern New York. While in Dubuque he edited and published the Miner s Express, in company with his brother-in- law, W. H. Merritt. For eight years he served as Judge of the Supreme Court of Iowa. He was the editor and publisher of Greene's Reports, a work which contains several volumes and which is regarded as of permanent value. Judge Greene was a man of massive brain and commanding presence. He possessed a mind that was keen to observe and far-reaching in its sweep of events. He was characterized by his broad views and wonderful faith in the possibilities of 144 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND this town and country for the future. He even went further than this. He not only believed in the possibility, but in the probability of a growth and prosperity for this city that far transcended the faith and foresight of our most sanguine citizens. He was thought sometimes to be almost chimerical and visionary in his plans and predictions with regard to the future of our city. And yet now we can see that he planned wisely and well, and that his views were none too broad and that his anticipations were, none too high. It was indeed a good day for Cedar Rapids when Judge Greene decided to make it his home. His coming gave a new and decided impetus to our business interests that was felt all over this part of the country. No man that has ever lived here has taken a deeper interest in public affairs, nor done more towards developing our resources, nor towards the building up of all those institu tions that tend to make a city truly great, than he. He had a large interest for many years in one of our most noted mercantile houses, in company with his brothers; he was an extensive operator in banking and real estate; he was a heavy con tractor in the building of railroads; and, in short, there was scarcely any g-reat enterprise, or any important institution that tended towards the development of our resources and the promotion of our best interests as a city and State, that did not feel the impress of his powerful hand. He was always identified with the Episcopal church as one of its most benevolent and active CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 145 members. His benevolence, however, was not restricted to his own church, but every religious, charitable or educational institution, enlisted his sympathies and shared in his liberal benefactions. Judge Greene departed this life June 23, 1880, leaving behind him the record of a busy and use ful life, and a name that the people of Cedar Rapids will always love to honor. He was twice married, first to Miss Harriet Merritt, by whom four children were born, only two of whom still survive, Edward M. and Mrs. Susan H. Belt, (widow of the late A. Sidney Belt, attorney at law), the former living in Chicago, and the latter residing in this place, in the midst of a host of friends, many of whom have known and loved her from the days of her childhood. Mrs. Greene died at Dubuque April 25, 1850. In 1855 Judge Greene was married to Miss Frances R. Graves, of Cooperstown, N. Y. Of the eight children born of this marriage, six still survive, Calvin G., George, William J., Elizabeth, (Mrs. MclvorJ, now in Japan, Frances and Woodward K.; the other two, Fannie and Robert C, died some years ago. Mr. Calvin G. Greene is a well-known and highly-honored business man of our city, and the next younger brother was the popular Adjutant- General during the two terms of Governor Boies' administration. Mrs. Greene is still a resident of our city, hon ored and loved by hosts of friends who have been attracted to her by her many womanly virtues. 146 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND HENRY WEARE. In 1844 Mr. Weare came to Cedar Rapids with the intention of making it his home. He boarded with his sister, Mrs. Shearer, while they were still living in the log house on the bank of the river below Fourth avenue. He came here di rectly from Allegan, Mich., although his native state was Vermont. He was a man of medium height and of rather slender build. He possessed a clear, keen intel lect and was very fond of reading. He was an easy and pleasant conversationalist, and could talk intellig'ently on any subject, although he seemed especially at home in the realm of politics. He was always gentlemanly in his manners and kindly disposed towards those with whom he min gled. He was a man of good judgment, and had a clear insight into business affairs, and, had he lived, I have no doubt, would have occupied a prominent place in the business circles of our city. He was a frequent visitor at our house and we were always glad to welcome him to a seat around our ample fireside. During' the first year that he was here my father had a business transaction with him which was to us of g-reat importance, and which left an impression on my mind that has never been effaced. The land had recently come into market, but as yet we had been unable to g'et money enough with which to pay for ours. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 147 In the meantime our neighbor, Mr. John Stam baugh, wTho then owned the Bever place, secretly entered that part of our claim on which the house stood. It was a most villainous act and our neighbors were up in arms about it, and they made it so uncomfortable for Mr. Stambaugh that he was glad to give it up upon my father's paying the entrance money, which was fifty dollars for the forty acres upon which our improvements had been made. But the question was how could we raise even that small amount of money? It was no easy matter in those days to raise even one dollar, much less the amount necessary to pay for forty acres of land. We brought with us from Canada, a very val uable black mare which we considered one of the finest in the territory. She seemed to be the only available piece of property that we could spare at that time, and so she was offered for sale, although it seemed almost like putting upon the market a member of the family. Mr. Weare decided to buy her, but as money was so scarce, and horses so low in value, she brought only fifty dollars. It was sufficient, however, to pay for the land, and so we readily gave her up that we might re lieve ourselves from the pressing embarrassment that had been thrust upon us by a man who was devoid of any sense of true manhood. About a year later we sold to Mr. Weare the eighty acres lying on the west part of our claim for seventy-five dollars in gold. The sale of a 148 PIONEER LiEE IN AND AROUND yoke of steers which we had raised, for twenty- five dollars, made out the one hundred dollars with which we paid for the eighty acres adjoining the forty acres we had already purchased. The one hundred and twenty acres of land, paid for in this way, were all that we "were able to secure out of the three hundred and twenty acres that composed our original claim. This detailed account of our business trans actions, in those early years, is here recorded in order to give the reader a little glimpse of what the pioneers of this now rich commonwealth had to endure, in laying the foundations for its future prosperity. Mr. Weare died very suddenly at the house of Mr. Ramsey, near Polo, in Illinois, June 2d, 1846, at the ag-e of 29 years. He was on a business trip when the fatal dis ease overtook him that terminated his life. His death was so sudden that we were greatly shocked by the sad news, and our house became one of true mourning for one who had become to us more than a neighbor, or any ordinary friend. JOHN WEARE, JR. It was in January, 1845, when Mr. John Weare, Jr., came to Cedar Rapids seeking- a new home. His brother Henry had returned to Allegan, Mich igan, in the fall of 1844, and at the date above mentioned the two brothers came on to Cedar Rapids together. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 149 He was born in Stanstead, Lower Canada, Oct. 5, 1815. On coming to this place he also boarded with his sister, Mrs. Shearer, until his family came in the spring. We soon became acquainted with Mr. Weare, and he often visited our home. The family consisted, when all had arrived, of Mr. and Mrs. Weare, Portus, Laura and Alexan der, the last named being a baby of only a few months old. At one time the whole family boarded at our house for two or three months tog-ether. At that time we had built on a little addition to our house, otherwise we could hardly have taken in so large an accession to our family. From the very first Mr. Weare showed himself to be a man of unusual pluck and energy, and he soon found ample scope for the exercise of his large business capacity. At that time there were no very easy places to step into, whereby a man could make money rapidly with but little labor. The men who came in those days did not expect to find easy and lucrative positions prepared to their hands, but they came to make places for themselves and to open up lines of business that would eventually afford them permanent employ ment and secure a comfortable competency for their declining years. Mr. Weare was a man of this kind. He could turn his hand to almost anything that would afford employment and secure even a small return 150 pionEEr liEe in AnD ARoUnD for his labor. He could drive oxen, chop down trees, draw wood, run a threshing machine, make long journeys with a team of horses to carry away the products of the country, and bring back the necessary supplies; in fact, he could do anything to keep business moving, and to lay foundations for the future progress and a fuller development of our country. With such a spirit of industry and enterprise, Mr. Weare worked his way onward and upward till almost before he was himself aware of it, he stood in the front rank of the business men of the new State of his adoption. After opening his farm on the west side of the river, to which he had only given a portion of his time, he finally established an office in town, where, about the year 1851, he commenced opera tions in banking and real estate. Continuing the business alone a few months, he finally took in as his first partner Daniel O. Finch, Esq., a young- attorney, who had come to the place, and who published our first newspaper, under the name of The Progressive Era. Later Mr. Weare entered into partnership with George Greene and Thomas H. Benton, Jr., under the firm name of Greene, Weare & Benton. They had branch houses in Des Moines, Fort Dodge and Omaha, and they did a very extensive business. When the First National Bank of Cedar Rapids was organized, Mr. Weare held the position of cashier, Mr. W. W. Walker being president. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 151 Later, and for many years, Mr. Weare himself held the office of president of that widely known institution. He was possessed of broad views, and he took a great interest in public affairs. He felt proud of the State of his adoption and never tired of expatiating upon its boundless re sources, and more especially upon the productive ness of its fertile soil. He was deeply interested in all public improve ments, and gave his aid and influence in the build ing of railroads the establishment of factories, and whatever contributed to the growth and pros perity of the city and the country at large. His failing- health compelled him in his later years to lay aside his active business cares and to confine himself more closely to the rest and quiet of his own comfortable home. He had been accustomed for some time past, owing to the state of his health, to spend his win ters in a milder climate, and it was during one of those temporary sojourns at Hot Springs, Arkan sas, that the stern messenger came that sum moned him away from earth. He peacefully passed away March 10, 1891. His remains were brought home a day or two later, and the funeral services were held in the First Presbyterian church, where he had been in the habit of attending, and a large concourse of sorrowing friends and neighbors followed him to his last resting place in Oak Hill cemetery. 152 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND His first wife, Mrs. Martha (Parkhurst) Weare, was a woman of rare excellence of character, and was highly respected by all who knew her. Hav ing lived so long in our family, we all learned to love her, and the intimacy then begun continued to the end of her life. She died August 11, 1858, sadly lamented by a large circle of friends and neighbors, whose respect and love she had won during her stay with us. The children of this marriage now living are, Portus Baxter, Laura, wife of the late lamented W. W. Walker; Ely E., Charles A., and Martha, wife of Mr. Mark Morton, all of whom reside at present in Chicago. Mr. Weare was married a second time to Miss Martha Rogers, of Clinton, in 1862. She still survives, and until recently, during the summer months, has occupied her commodious residence, around whose hearthstone gather so many pleas ant memories of days gone by. Mrs. Weare has two daughters, Mrs. William H. Hubbard, and Mrs. Eli Gage, of Chicago, who make frequent visits to the old homestead. Mr. Ely E. Weare, her step-son, continued up to a few months ago to make his home with his mother, his time being mainly occupied in settling up his father's estate. Mrs. Weare is a woman of marked intelligence and decision of character, and she has always moved in the highest circles of society. She is a CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 153 member of the First Presbyterian church of this city. The Weare home on the hill, has always been the scene of many pleasant gatherings, and the centre from whence many streams of benevo lence have gone forth to bless the needy. THE SONS OF MR. JOHN WEARE, JR. Mr. Portus B. Weare, the eldest son, has for many years been a well known business man in Chicago. It may be safely said, I think, that no man that has ever gone to Chicago from this re gion has become more widely known in the com mercial world, nor made a more honorable record than he. Being , a close and accurate judge of human nature, and possessing a breadth of intel lect that enables him to grapple with the. great financial problems of the country, his business career has been one of constant activity; and in planning and carrying on of the great commercial enterprises to which he has given his attention, the degree of success that has attended him, not withstanding the recent great financial reverses of the country, has been truly remarkable. Portus Baxter Weare "was born in Otsego, Alle gan county, Mich., January 1, 1842. He came to Cedar Rapids with his father in 1845, where he grew up and received most of his education. He attended the common schools of this place and Sioux City, and spent one year at Western Col lege, then located ten miles south of Cedar Rapids. 154 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND In 1858 he went to Sioux City and was em ployed in the bank of Weare & Allison, where he remained for four years. During that time he made frequent trips into what was then the Sioux country, on the upper Missouri river, spending some time at Fort Rankin, the Yankton Agency, and other points above Sioux City. In 1862 he went to Chicago and engaged in the general produce and commission business in con nection with Henry W. Rogers, Jr. After three years he severed his connection with this firm and commenced business under the name of P. B. Weare & Co., at first doing a large business in the way of exporting prairie chickens, mostly from Iowa and Nebraska, to England, France and Germany, the shipments amounting to ten thou sand barrels per year. After the country became more settled and this business was done away with, they engaged on a larg'e scale in the buffalo robe trade, handling yearly from twenty-five to fifty thousand robes. This trade involved a great deal of travel in the far west. But, before the advancing population in these new reg7ions, the buffalo also disappeared and put an end to this trade. But another branch of business was soon commenced to take its place. The Weare Land and Live Stock Company was formed, and at one time they had as high as fifty thousand head of cattle. These herds were located at different points in northern Wyoming, eastern Montana, on the Belle Fourche, Powder, Tongue, and Big Horn rivers. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 155 I find in a recent number of the Chicago Eve- }/ing Post, this brief but significant statement concerning the present business operations of Mr. P. B. Weare: "Mr. Weare's grain interests are extensive, the company maintaining sixty-five stations in the states of Illinois, Iowa and Neb raska. He owns a storage capacity of over 5,000- 000 bushels along the Northwestern system, and is represented in Minneapolis, Duluth and Omaha. The Chicago Railway Terminal Company, of which he is manager, embraces eig'ht of the larg est local elevators, having an aggregate storage room for over 10,000,000 bushels. He is also director of the Globe Elevator Company at West Superior with 5,000,000 bushels capacity. He has been a member of the Chicago Board of Trade since 1862." In the Chicago Tribune of May 5, 1895, I find this record concerning the sons of Mr. John Weare, which it seems to me not inappropriate to transcribe to these pages. It has reference to their operations in Alaska, in which Mr. P. B. Weare has been a prime mover. "In 1891 P. B. Weare, E. E- Weare, and C. A. Weare, of the Weare commission company, had their attention called to the Yukon country by Capt. J. J. Healy, an old Montana miner, who had spent ten years in Alaska, and knew its resources and needs. The Weares have had an extensive trading and mining experience in Mon tana, being traders at old Fort Benton on the 156 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND Missouri as early as 1859, and had long known Capt. Healy. "Together with John Cudahy, the packer, and a number of other Chicago capitalists, they formed the North American Trading and Transporta tion Company, and in the summer of 1892 Mr. Weare took from Puget Sound the timbers, ma terials and machinery for the five hundred tons burden river steamer, P. B. Weare, to St. Mich ael's Island, at the mouth of the Yukon. Here it was built and launched in time to take a cargo from an ocean steamer and ascend the Yukon that fall. "' * * The company have now invested three hundred thousand dollars in steamer, build ing's and merchandise, the demand for which is out-growing the supply. This made more exten sive prospecting- possible." The result of this enterprise is to open up to the world rich and extensive gold placer mines, as well as quartz, to the citizens of the United States, and making it possible for men to spend their summers and winters prospecting- and developing mines hitherto shut out bv the high cost of living and want of transportation to that far away Arctic land. Mr. Weare was married January 2, 18(o, to Miss Susan Wheelock Risley, daughter of Levi and Sophia Risley, of Shady Brook Farm, Cedar Rapids, Iowa, the ceremony being- performed in Grace church by the Rev. C. S. Percival. Two children were born of this union, William W. and Nellie Darling Weare. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 157 The latter died January 1, 1892. The former is now living in Chicago, being president of the Humboldt Land and Cattle Company. This will show what some of the pioneer chil dren of Cedar Rapids are doing at the present time. MR. ALEXANDER L. ELY. The coming of Mr. and Mrs. Alexander L. Ely, through the influence of Judge Greene, to our community in 1842, was an important event in our history. Many long years have gone by since Mr. Ely passed from us, but I must be permitted to lay one little wreath upon the green turf that has so long covered his mortal remains. A kinder heart never beat in any man's breast than in his. A more generous, purer or nobler spirit than his never animated any man's body. He was always and everywhere the polished, courtly, christian gentleman, and yet so modest and so gentle and kind in his bearing, that even the most timid child in his rustic, pioneer garb, felt at ease in his presence, and proud at his polite recognition. From the time of his coming, a new moral and religious impetus was g-iven to the community, which has been felt from that day to this, and which will continue to be felt, I doubt not, to the end of time. Of his decided christian character and his scru pulous regard for the Sabbath, the late Rev. Glen Wood wrote some years ago: 158 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND "Brother A. L. Ely was a man of God, who did not leave his religion behind him when he came west, but came forward a pioneer of the Hosts of the Lord, to plant the standard of the cross, and take possession of the land in the name of the Lord Jehovah. When he had built his mill, which was a great event in those days, the tidings had spread far and wide; and the farmers came rushing in with their g-rists. Many of them thought to 'take time by the forelock,' and so made their calculations to arrive Saturday night or Sunday morning-, that they might have their grinding done on the Lord's day. "What was their surprise when their sleep was broken at midnight by the ceasing of the music at the mill. Ah! there was a man of God running that mill; and when the Sabbath day had come, all work must cease there. No considera tions could induce him to start up again until the whole of that day had passed. Here is one of the secrets of the success of Cedar Rapids." Added to the social and moral influence which he exerted was the new impetus which he gave to the business and commercial interests of the place. Mr. N. B. Brown had built the temporary dam across the river and had erected a small saw-mill and grist-mill; but his means were at that time quite limited, and his mills were inadequate to meet the g7rowing demands of the country. The erection of a more permanent dam and of the larger, more substantial and stately mills by CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 159 Mr. Ely, with a capacity for the more extensive manufacture of lumber and flour, and of a finer grade, gave such an impulse to our business inter ests as we had not hitherto enjoyed, and the influ ence of which has ever since been felt in a marked degree. Mr. Ely's mill, when completed, was the largest and best in the State. If the erection of a common dwelling, such as the early pioneers inhabited, was very difficult to, accomplish, how much more so was the erection of this splendid mill? True, they began to have saw-mills and lumber at that time, but there were so many other disadvantages to labor under in the erection of such a building, that it seemed, as it truly was, a gigantic undertaking. In the prosecution of this great enterprise, there were obstacles to be encountered of such magnitude as few at this day can have any just conception. To meet and overcome them required courage and determination such as few men pos sess. And yet Mr. Ely never faltered in his course till the work was accomplished and the victory fairly won. There were times, not a few, during the four years in which this work was going on, when the entire force of mechanics were disabled by sick ness and the work had to stop short. On account of this, months of precious time were lost each year, causing great discouragement and expense. There was no railroad then nearer than Jack son the old capital of Michigan, and all of the heavy machinery for the mill had to be shipped 160 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND from New York by water via New Orleans, and was landed at Bloomington, now Muscatine, from whence it was transported over land to this place. Such were some of the hardships and sacrifices and heroic efforts that it cost to lay the founda tions of our present prosperous city and commun- ity. It was the saddest day that this community had ever experienced, when this good man, this justly distinguished citizen, honored and loved by all, on the ninth day of July 1848 passed away from us to his home in a brighter and better world than this. HON. ISAAC COOK. The first lawyer to locate permanently in this place was Mr. Isaac Cook. He was a native of Chester Co., Pa. His first move to the West was to Palmyra, Mo., in 1844, where he completed his legal studies and was ad mitted to the bar. In 1846 he went to Dubuque, and from that place came to Cedar Rapids in 1848. His ability as a lawyer was of the first order, and in 1857 he was elected judge of the district court, over which he presided with characteristic dignity and fidelity. Finding the salary inade quate and caring but little for its honors he re signed after about one year's service. He was re markably modest and retiring in his disposition, and he had no taste for the complications and con flicts into which his profession naturally led him. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 161 He was a man of the purest motives and the highest aspirations and conscientious and strictly honest in all his business transactions. He could be trusted in any position and to any extent with out the slig-htest concern that he would in any way betray the trust committed to his care. In the sing-ular integrity and unswerving up rightness of his character, he had but few equals and no superiors. He was a member and office bearer in the First Presbyterian church of this place for some years, but subsequently removed his church relationship to Marion, that being more convenient to his farm home, where he spent the latter part of his life. His death occurred August 8, 1878. In 1851 he was married to Miss Luceba Brooks, several children being the issue of that union. Mrs. Cook who is a women of most amiable character still survives and resides with her chil dren in Dakota. The old homestead of Judge Cook is now own ed by his brother, Mr. William Cook, who came to the place in 1853, and, who is one of our best known and hig'hly respected citizens of Linn County. COL. I. M. PRESTON. One of the most distinguished members of the Linn County Bar, was Col. I. M. Preston. Coming- to Linn County, and locating in Marion in the fall of 1842, he spent most of his busy life in that place. In December, 1878, however, he 162 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND came to Cedar Rapids, where he continued to reside up to the time of his death, which occurred March 6, 1880. He was one of the most widely known and successful lawyers that has ever lived within the limits of our county. His popularity is shown in the various offices of trust which he held at different periods of his life. He held the office, at one time, of Judge of Probate for this county; he was also appointed prosecuting attor ney for the 18th Judicial district, comprising Linn, Benton and Tama counties; he was com missioned Colonel of the Third Regiment, Second Brigade, Second Division of Militia of the Terri tory of Iowa, was appointed United States Dis trict Attorney by President Polk, and in 1848 was elected to the Iowa State Legislature, and in 1850 was elected to the State Senate. His estimable wife is a resident of our city; her elegant home being situated on Second Avenue between Seventh and Eighth streets. The two sons, Judge Joseph H. and Edmund C. are also residents of this place, pursuing the same honor able profession as their father. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 163 CHAPTER XIV. MR. ARVIN KENNEDY. Among the early settlers of this place, it gives me special pleasure to mention the name of Mr. Arvin Kennedy. He came to this place in April 1848 with his family, consisting of his wife, and seven children, Homer, Jane, Edward, William, Emma, Harriet and Charles. Mr. Kennedy was born in New Braintree, Mass. He afterwards lived in New York, and still la ter in Ohio, from "whence he removed to Jones Co. this state in 1844. He was a clothier by trade, and on coming here followed his calling in Mr. Brown's woolen fac tory. He was plain and unostentatious in his manner of life, but I think he would have been re cognized anywhere as a man of solid character and honest purposes in life. Such indeed was the estimate in which he was held, and such the character he bore through all the years he re sided in this community. He and his wife identified themselves at once on coming here, with the First Presbyterian Church, Mr. Kennedy being elected an elder, and his counsels and advice were highly prized by those associated with him as co-laborers. In writing of this worthy citizen of ours, years after his death, Dr. J. F. Ely, who knew him well, spoke of him in these words, "Deacon Ken nedy as a business man, was marked for his in- 164 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND dustry and uprightness; as being honest and con scientious in all his dealings. In the church he was justly esteemed for his faithfulness in every christian duty, both as a member and officer. He was a fine representative of a typical New England deacon, a class of sturdy christian men, puritanic, if you please, very rarely met in the early settlement of this region." His death occurred Feb. 28, 1856. His good wife who always enjoyed the highest respect of the community, being active in every good work, followed her husband to the grave some years later, her death occurring February 25th 1886. Of the children, William died June 6, 1850, being a lad yet in his teens, Homer, a young man who justly won and held the respect of all who knew him, and whose life was one of great prom ise, died March 2, 1856, and Harriet who became the wife of Mr. Andrew Van Vleck, and who was a woman of stainless christian character, loved and honored by everybody, passed away January 2, 1888. Edward is a farmer residing in Wood bury County of this state, Emma the wife of the late Mr. Cornelius Polhamus, lives in California, Jane, now Mrs. Noble, and Charles are still re sidents of this city. Charles the youngest of the family is one of our staunch reliable citizens and in the church a worthy successor of his father, having- for a num ber of years past filled the office of ruling elder in the First Presbyterian Church. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 165 MR. SAMUEL S. JOHNSON. Westmoreland County, Penn., has contributed to our ranks another honest, and sturdy citizen in the person of Mr. Samuel .S. Johnson, who came to this state and located on the west side of the river in 1847. At that date Cedar Rapids was a little village of only 300 inhabitants. Mr. Johnson is a carpenter and joiner by trade, and for a short time' after coming to this place, followed that line of business. But most of his life here has been employed in that eminently use ful and highly honorable employment of a tiller of the soil. His valuable farm is now included within the city limits, and is laid off into city lots where comfortable residences are to be found at this time. Mr. Johnson's standing in the com munity is sufficiently attested in the fact that he has been honored with many of the offices of his township, and for many successive years. He and his wife are members of the United Presby terian Church. MR. ABSALOM SINES. Another of the worthy citizens of our town was Mr. Absalom Sines, who for many years was the miller in the Ely mills. He was one of those modest, quiet bodies that said but little and thought a great deal, Although not a member of any church, nor making any public profession of religion, he lived an upright life and sustained a character that 166 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND was above reproach. He was a man possessed of a kind heart and a most amiable disposition. If he had a single enemy in the world I am quite sure that he never made himself known in these parts. Everybody entertained for Mr. Sines the highest respect as a man and citizen. He was always gentlemanly in his conduct, and kind and accommodating in his intercourse with others. In 1854 he was united in marriage to Miss Mary Wadsworth, a young lady of great amiabil ity of character, who lived only about a year after her marriage. During the war Mr. Sines enlisted in the ser vice of his country, and fell at the battle of Champion Hills, August 11, 1862. A truer, nobler patriot never wore the uniform of a United States soldier. He was a native of Wilmington, Delaware. MR. WILLIAM STEWART. Among the tradesmen of early times, there were none, whether we consider them morally or physi cally, that stood higher than Mr. William Stew art. Very tall and slender in his build, he was nevertheless of a strong and wiry constitution, and in his earlier years he could endure a great deal of hard labor. His trade was that of a blacksmith, and he was a very good workman, though not quite so skilled possibly in the manu facture of heavy mill irons as his brother-in-law, Mr. S. L. Pollock, who I believe came to the place perhaps a year or two earlier than he. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 167 These two men were pioneers in this branch of business, though not the first, that honor being accorded to Mr. Harrison Campbell who erected the first blacksmith shop in the place in 1843. Mr. Stewart was a native of Pennsylvania and came to Cedar Rapids in 1847. He first entered the shop of Mr. Stephen L. Pollock, I believe, and worked by the month, but later he erected shops for himself and carried on an extensive busi ness in which he employed a large force of work men. The latter part of his life he spent in carry ing on a large farm which he purchased, a little below the city on the river bottom. Mr. Stewart's first investment in real estate was the purchase of a lot on the west side of First Avenue a little above Second Street, and for which he traded a horse that cost him forty-five dollars. On this lot he erected a comfortable house which he occupied for some years and then sold the property for ten thousand dollars. His estate at the time of his death was esti mated to be worth eighty thousand dollars. Mr. Stewart early became a member of the First Presbyterian church, and ever afterwards was active in church work up to the close of his life. He was a man of strong convictions and of fearless courage in the advocacy of those prin ciples which he espoused. He was a ready and forcible speaker and he often addressed public as semblies. For many years he was a member of the city council, and he took an active interest in all the great moral questions of the day. 168 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND In his later years his health was quite feeble and he sought relief in the mild climate of South ern California. It was during one of these tempo rary absences that his earthly career ended. He died at Los Angeles, Cal., Dec. 23, 1891. He was married in 1850 to Miss Eliza M. Lu- core, who proved herself to be a worthy helpmeet of a worthy man. Of their seven children only four are now living; Miss Belle living with her mother at the old homestead; George carrying on the farm near the city; Edward engaged in the fruit culture in California; and Robert practic ing law in Pierre, South Dakota. For some years past Mr. and Mrs. Stewart have had their church connection with the Second Presbyterian church of this city, in which, as also in the first church, Mr. Stewart held the office of ruling elder. MR. JOHN WEARE, SR. In the spring of 1848, his children having al ready located here, Mr. John Weare, Sr., came to make Cedar Rapids his home. He came here directly from Allegan, Michigan. His native State was New Hampshire. He moved to Michi gan in 1835, where he cleared and cultivated two farms, and later erected saw-mills and eng-aged in the lumber business. He was a man that was always wide-awake and full of energy. From the loss of one leg and the severe frac ture of the other, by the falling of a tree, he was in a sadly crippled condition when he came to this State. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 169 Nevertheless, his misfortune did not deter him from an active participation in business affairs. On coming here he at once engaged in the livery business on a small scale, as this occupation seemed best adapted to his infirm condition. He made his home with his daughter, Mrs. Ely. He was a man that would strike you at once as possessing great force of character, and as being a keen observer of all that was going on about him. His restless, energetic nature would not allow him to sit quietly in the house if it was at all possible to be out and engage in some useful oc cupation. He really seemed to love to work, and nothing pleased him better than to see everybody busy about him. He would say sometimes that he had rather see a man do mischief than to do nothing. I think the hum of machinery and the noise and clatter of active business life would have been music to his ears. There was, how ever, comparatively little of that kind of music here in his day, but to that little he contributed his share. He was very animated in conversation and he had a keen sense of the ludicrous. In his business transactions he was prompt and outspoken. No one needed to be in doubt as to his meaning. His terms were explicit and definite and he expected those with whom he transacted business to be alike prompt and ready to fulfill their contracts. Whoever dealt with him after 170 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND that fashion would get along smoothly and pleas antly. But if a man was disposed to be crooked or cranky in his business habits, the less he had to do with Mr. Weare the better for him. For such characters he always had the supremest contempt. Mr. Weare was elected justice of the peace the next year after he came to this place, and with the exception of one year, continued to hold the office up to the time of his death. His busy and eventful life came to an end April 6, 1856 at the age of 65 years. He was united in marriage to Miss- Cynthia Ashley, August 1, 1811. Her death occurred in Allegan, Mich., January 19, 1842. Of their ten children, two died when quite young. Those who grew up to mature years, were Betsey, John, Henry, Mary A., Lydia, Sar ah, Charles, Harriet and George. All of these are mentioned elsewhere except Mrs. Lydia (wife of the late Elisha D. Ely of Rochester N. Y.), a lady of decided intelligence and refinement, who did great service during our late war as nurse among our sick and wounded soldiers, and after that residing for eig'ht years in Italy with her daughter, Mrs. Curtis, and at pre sent living with her eldest daughter, Mrs. Page, in Boston, her only son Elisha being in business in Cuba. MR. GEORGE WEARE. Mr. Georg-e Weare, the youngest son of Mr. John Weare, Senior, came to Cedar Rapids with CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 171 his father in 1848. He was born in Allegan, Mich. , December 3, 1834. His name will be recognized as among the students of Mr. Jones' school, and he continued in the school a year or two longer, when under the management of Mr. Blakely. He then went to Dubuque and spent one year in Alexander College, after which he took a course in a commercial college. In December, 1855, he went to Sioux City, and established the banking house of Greene, Weare, Graves & Co. This firm being dissolved in the spring of 1858, Mr. Weare carried on the business alone until September 6, 1860, when he entered into partnership with Mr. J. P. Allison, the style of the new firm being, Weare & Allison. From that date to the present, this banking house has continued in business, making it the oldest bank in Iowa under one continuous man- ag-ement. By fair and honorable dealing, and the application of strict business principles in the conduct of its affairs, it has become one of the most substantial and reliable banking houses in the State. Mr. Weare was married August 11, 1857, to Miss Mary Carpenter, of Cedar Rapids. The children of these parents are as follows: Henry G. Weare, now residing in South Dako ta; Miss Susanna H., residing with her parents; Mrs. Kitty C, wife of John H. Nason; and Mrs. Mary E.,wife of Mr. Howard G. Pierce, all of whom reside in Sioux City. I think it is safe to say that few men have done 172 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND more towards developing Sioux City in all that goes to make up its proud record than Mr. George Weare. MR. JAMES FERGUSON. Some time during the spring- of 1849, Mr. James Ferguson and wife came into our commu nity and located on what was originally a part of my father's claim. He was born in Beaver county, Pennsylvania, and both he and his wife were members of the Congregational church. After coming here they and their daughter united with the First Presby terian church, and later Mr. Ferguson was elect ed to the office of ruling elder. The sons came into the church some years after. Of the five sons, Calvin, Cyrus E., Amos, Clement and James, only Cyrus and Clement remain; the former living in Chicago, and the latter occupying the old homestead. Mr. Ferguson was a man of sound judgment and of the strictest integrity. He was mild in his disposition and kind and gentle in his treat ment of others. He was strongly attached to his church and was ever a strong pillar of support within its walls. He died April 27, 1850, after a short illness, mourned not only by the church of which he was an honored member, but by the community at large. His wife, a most noble, christian woman, sur- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 173 vived him till May 9, 1886, when she, too, passed away to join her husband in the land beyond. The record of these two people here is brief and inadequate, but the salutary influence of their lives lingers as a lasting benediction to the com munity in which they lived. Amos was taken prisoner and died in Ander sonville prison February 28, 1865. James died at the old homestead December 24, 1890. MR. CHARLES WEARE. Mr. Charles Weare was born in Derby Line, Orleans Co., Vermont January, 29, 1828. He removed to Allegan, Michigan in 1835, and 1848 he came to Cedar Rapids where he has resided ever since. For four years he was in the lumber business here, and then for several years after, he engaged in the construction of the differ ent railroads then being built, upon whose lines he had taken contracts. He has always taken an active part in politics having been connected with the republican party since its organization. He served one term in the legislature of the state, has served his county as supervisor for several years and has held the offices of Marshal, Alder man and Mayor of the city. Under the administration of Gen. Grant he was appointed postmaster of this city, an office which he held for eight years. During the administration of Benjamin Harrison he was appointed Consul to Aix-la-Chapelle, Ger- 174 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND many, a position which in many respects was very pleasant and desirable, but which he felt impelled to relinquish after about ten months of service, circumstances being such as to demand his return to America. In his business relations he has been connected with the First National Bank, the Re publican Printing Co., the Cedar Rapids Water Co., and various other branches of enterprise, in all of which he has held offices of trust. Mr. Weare was united in marriage to Miss Catharine L. Carroll, March 24, 1857. Mrs. Weare has for many years been a member of the First Presbyterian Church. Coming here with her parents in 1839 she is one of the oldest residents of this place. MR. JOSEPH HOLLAN. Mr. Joseph Hollan came to Iowa in 1843, locat ing first about a mile northwest of Marion. He was a native of Delaware, but for many years he had resided in McKean county, Pennsylvania, from which place he came direct to this state. In the spring of 1844 he rented and moved on to Judge Greene's mound farm. Here he remained for three years and proved himself to be a good tenant and a careful and thrifty farmer. While living' on the mound farm, a Methodist class was formed at his house, of which he and his wife and my father and mother became mem bers. He afterwards moved into town, purchased a lot on Fifth avenue near Second street and CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 175 erected a comfortable house which he occupied till the close of his life. Mr. Hollan was always considered a man of sterling qualities, industrious, frugal and con scientious in all his business transactions. He was always held in high esteem in the church of which he, was a member, and for many years he held the offices of class leader and steward. By his faithful industry, the careful manage ment of his business affairs and his simple habits of life, he secured for himself and family a com fortable home which he lived many years to enjoy. His death occurred September 24, 1886. His wife who still survives has always been considered a woman of stainless christian charac ter. Retiring' in disposition, kind of heart, and courteous in her manners, she has always been held in high esteem by those who have' known her best. For some years past she has been in very feeble health, and for the past year her mind has been clouded and her eyesight has entirely failed. Of their four children, Samuel, Ellsworth, Joseph and Orril, only Samuel, the well known proprietor of one of our city transfers, remains, to be a comfort and support to his mother in her old age and sad condition. The patient, untiring vigilance with which he has watched by the maternal bedside during these trying years, is indeed commendable, and proves him to be a worthy son of a most worthy parent age. 176 pioneer liEe in and around mr. james martin. In 1849 Mr. James Martin, with his wife and four children, Elmira, George, Lizzie and Na thaniel H. came to this place from Calaise, Maine. They have always been numbered among our best people. For many years, Mr. Martin was employed about the flouring mills, and the family kept a boarding house where all the comforts of a home were enjoyed by its patrons. Mr. Martin was quiet and unobtrusive in his manners, but he was a man of intelligence and of unimpeachable in tegrity of character. Mrs. Martin was one of those motherly, kind- hearted women that every body loved to meet. In times of sickness and bereavement she was always present with loving words of sympathy and will ing hands to help. At such times her discreet counsels and her wise and loving ministrations were invaluable to the many anxious and suffer ing ones who sought and obtained her help in those times of need. Mrs. Martin, and I believe all of the children were members of the Methodist church. She died April 24, 1884. Mr. Martin departed this life at LaCross, Wis consin, at the home of his daughter, Mrs. Eliza beth Gault, October 22, 1889. Miss Elmira, one of our purest and noblest christian characters, died at the same place as that of her father, January 21, 1894. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 177 The remaining two children, George and Na thaniel H. are residents of this city, the former a well known conductor on the B., C. R. & N. Ry. and the latter a commercial traveler for one of our business houses. REV. WILLISTON JONES. Iii the religious and educational interests of our town in its early history, there is perhaps no man that deserves greater credit nor occupies a higher place than the Rev. Williston Jones. He was born in Holland, Erie county, New York, February 6, 1814. He was a graduate of Illinois College and of Lane Theological semi nary. In 1846 he was married in the city of St. Louis to Miss Elizabeth H. Shearer whose experiences in Cedar Rapids in 1844-5 are elsewhere related. They came to this place in the autumn of 1848, Mr. Jones having received a call to become pastor of the First Presbyterian church then in its in fancy, having been organized but one year before. He was a man of great energy and untiring zeal in the high and holy calling, to which he had devoted his life. He possessed the true mission ary spirit in every sense of the word. In his christian sympathy and prayers and efforts he embraced the whole world, but in doing this he did not neglect, as is too often done, the great spiritual harvest field that immediately surround ed him. Every home and every community for miles around felt the inspiring influence of his 178 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND intensely active christian life. He soon undertook the task of erecting a church for his congregation, although the membership was so small in numbers and so weak in financial ability. The work how ever was pushed to its completion, and in January 1851, the first church building ever erected in Cedar Rapids was dedicated to the worship of God. The walls were composed of lime mortar and the thin cobble stones quarried from the ground near the Milwaukee depot. The dark colored mortar gave the walls the appearance of mud walls, and hence some one in a playful spirit named it "The Little Muddy," an appellation that always clung to it while it stood. The ground on which it stood is the same as that occupied at present by the splendid building erected by the United States government for the Postoffice. If the latter building is the means of doing any greater or more lasting good than its predecessor, "The Little Muddy," I am sure that no one will ever have cause to regret its erection. Certain it is that the former humble structure was the means of very great good to the community, and its in fluence extended to remote parts of the state, nor will that influence end while time shall last. Mr. Jones continued his labors here for eig'ht years with unflagging zeal and success. During that period he saw and felt deeply the need of the establishment of schools of a higher order in the new and rapidly developing west. He had per- Residence of Rev. Williston Jones. The Birth-place of Coe College. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 181 suaded one young man, the writer' of this sketeh, to devote his life to the gospel ministry, but there was no school here in which he could begin his studies. At last the zealous pastor decided to undertake himself the task of preparing that young man for college. Meantime other young men heard of the arrang7e- ment and besought Mr. Jones to admit them also to the same privileges of the aforesaid young man. The result was the formation of a class of six teen or eighteen young men who occupied the un finished parlor in the pastor's house which was temporarily fitted up for the purpose. One of the number was chosen to act as monitor each week and Mr. and Mrs. Jones came in at different hours of the day to hear the recitations in the various branches of study pursued. The branches stud ied were reading, writing, geography, arithmetic, Latin and Greek. This school continued its regular sessions for about six months, and was successfully wound up with a public exhibition under the shade trees in front of the pastor's residence on the hill near the Milwaukee depot. The following young men were among the students of that first school: George Weare, John Stoney, Cyrus E- Fer- . guson, Murray S. Davis, Amos Ferguson, Isaac W. Carroll, Mortimer A. Higley, William E. Earl, William J. Wood, Edwin Kennedy, George R. Carroll, James L. Bever and George W. Bever. The remaining four or five that composed the school cannot now be recalled. 182 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND This school was continued two or three years after, under the name of "Cedar Rapids Collegi ate Institute," Mr. David Blakely, a recent gra duate of Knox College, having been procured by Mr. Jones to act as principal. In the second stage of its existence the school found shelter in the "Little Muddy Church" where its sessions were held. Out of this humble beginning, Coe College, an institution which at present is the pride of our city, has grown. Mr. Jones procured from Mr. Daniel B. Coe, in New York, money sufficient to purchase the eighty acres of land, a part of which now constitutes the college campus. A part of the money was invested in the lots which are now occupied by the First Presbyterian church and chapel, and also those occupied by St. Paul's M. E. church and parsonage. After passing through various changes of form and name, and having a history in which there has been some sunshine, and a great deal of shadow, Coe College was incorporated, under the laws of the State of Iowa, in 1881, and the Rev. Stephen Phelps, D. D., was made its first Presi dent, in which relation he continued until 1887. Although the foundation upon which Coe Col lege has been built up was not laid till 1851, which is at a period later than that of which I have been writing, yet it will be seen that the pioneers of the forties were the principal workers who inaugurated the great enterprise. The First Presbyterian Church. Erection begun in DM!) Completed, 1X51. The home of Coe College in its second stage. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 185 Rev. Williston Jones, Judge Greene, Dr. Ely, William Greene, Dr. Carpenter, Judge Cook and John L. Shearer, whose names are indissolubly connected with the enterprise from its earliest conception, were all numbered among the early settlers of that period which this record is de signed to cover. It is with pleasure, therefore, that the accom panying illustration, which shows Coe College as it now stands, is here presented. Under the able administration of Rev. James Marshall, D. D., with a faculty well qualified to fill the various professorships; with apparatus and appliances for study unexcelled by many older institutions of learning; with its fine list of students, and with its admirable constituency, composed of some of our best citizens here and in other parts of the state, Coe College has a bright outlook and a promising- future, such as to make her friends rejoice. To Rev. Williston Jones belongs the honor of founding this noble institution. Mr. Jones afterwards lived for several years at Iowa Falls, continuing his labors with a zeal and energy, such as is seldom witnessed in this world. His death occurred at Rolla, Missouri, Novem ber 20, 1865, where he had resided but a short time. His accomplished and devoted wife, who has also been untiring in various branches of chris tian work, still survives, and is a resident of Wellesley, Massachusetts. 186 PIONEER LlEE in AND AROUND On the ground where once stood the Little Muddy church now stands the magnificent United States Postoffice and Court House, which was erected under the superintendency of Mr. H. S. Josselyn, at a cost, including grounds, of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars. It is a solid structure, built of brick and stone, and in its architectural style and proportions, it is one of the most splendid ornaments of the city. But with all its imposing grandure and stateli- ness, it has never cost the self-denial, the days of toil and anxiety that were endured by the builders of that first little church, whose walls were reared in those early days when the men were so few and money so scarce and the materials so hard to procure. MR. HUGH LEGARE BRYAN. Mr. H. L. Bryan came to this place in 1849 from Charleston, South Carolina. I presume that he was born in that city and state, although I am unable to state this with certainty. I only known that he was a genuine southerner in all his tastes and habits of life. He was a Presbyterian of the old school, and a thoroughly conscientious good man. He had the charge of the extensive business of his aunt, Miss Mary S. Legare. Mr. Bryan had two brothers Michael, and "Doc," as they called him, although that was not his true name. Besides these came his bro ther-in-law Mr. E. G. Stoney, and four sisters, Mrs. Rutledge, Mrs. Stoney, Harley, and Joanna, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 189 the latter two quite young girls. They all came, I think, about the same time, and being quite wealthy they made a decided impression upon our community. For a time they monopolized the larger part of the business of the town, having leased Mr. Brown's mills and the Woolen Factory, and en gaging in the dry goods trade and controlling many of the blacksmith and carpenter shops and I know not what other branches of industry. Miss Legare invested largerly in real estate, and her large fortune seemed to be the main capital employed to carry on all these various branches of business. Mr. Bryan was the chief manager of all these great interests. For a year or two it made lively times for our town and the country around. Mr. Bryan managed the best he knew how. He was a kind, generous hearted man and perfectly honest in his business transactions. Of this I can testify from actual experience in dealing with him to a considerable extent. But he undertook too much, and financial dis aster was the unavoidable result. It was a cause of sincere regret that they did not succeed better, but their ways of doing business and their habits of life were such as to render success an impossi bility in a new and undeveloped country like this. The failure, however, was an honest one, and .Mr. Bryan's fortune went down with the rest. Of his honesty in all these trying times I have never had any doubt. He never regained his 190 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND financial standing, but seemed content to gain a livelihood by honest toil. For many years he pursued the calling of a drayman, and finally devoted himself mainly to gardening. His death occurred April 19, 1877. Were I to write his epitaph it would be in these words: "Here lies a good man, who in the face of great adversity tried to do his duty." His wife was a lady of rare accomplishments and of the highest christian character. She is living, I believe, with some of her children in the far west. MISS MARY S. LEGARE. In connection with what has been said of Mr. H. L. Bryan, it will only be necessary to add a few words concerning Miss Legare. She was a lady of the highest culture and refinement, having enjoyed every advantage that wealth and position could afford. She was the sister of the distinguished statesman of South Carolina, the Hon. Hugh S. Legare, who filled the offices of attorney General, of U. S. Senator, and was also acting Secretary of State. She edited and published the writings of her brother in two large octavo volumes. She became the wife of Mr. Lowell Bullen, of Marion, where she resided several years. After Mr. Bullen's death which occurred Nov. 2, 1869 she returned to South Carolina where she died some year ago. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 191 OTHER BRIEF BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. There were many more good honest men that lived here in those early days for a longer or shorter time. Among the number were D. L. Fiddler the tailor, spare and thin-visaged but kind of heart and honest in his dealings; and then David Gunning the carpenter, of light sandy complexion with smiling countenance and a ready hand to help in time of need, and who could en tertain you with stories so marvellous as to tax the credulity of the most credulous of his hearers, but who would not harm any one for the world, being at heart a true christian and a member of the Methodist church. And then there was Martin L. Barber the mill wright, with his larg'e head and massive brow, his awkward, swaggering walk and benevolent countenance bespeaking the presence of an honest man and a valued citizen whom everybody delight ed to honor as the first mayor of our pioneer vil lage. All these were good men and their memory the old settlers will recall with pleasure, although they have long since passed away from the earth. Mr. Abel Eddy was another of our tradesmen who was well known in our early history. He was a carpenter and joiner, his residence being on the ground now occupied by the "Granby" build ing, corner of Third avenue and Second street. He erected on his lot next to his residence a long, low building in which to frame the long timbers that were used in the construction of 192 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND buildings which he had contracted to erect. This building was after-wards cut up into apartments and was rented to families, the row being known under the some-what mystic title of "Long Ornery." Mr. Eddy was naturally a kind hearted man but unfortunately liquor had gained the mastery over him and proved his ruin. He removed many years ago to Butler county, this state, where he died. And then there was Harrison Bristol, who had an eye for business and early purchased a lot and erected a house thereon, and whose hospitable roof sheltered my mother and her family prior to the erection of her own house near the corner of Second street and Third avenue. He was a genial, clever young man whom every body liked, and in later years became one of the most prominent business men of Vinton, being in partnership with his father-in-law, Mr. Russell Jones, a former trusted and highly esteemed clerk in Greene's store in our city. In later years financial reverses overtook Mr. Bristol from which he has never been able to fully recover. After these reverses, true to his old instincts as a lover of stock, he studied veterinary surg'ery and has for a number of years practiced that pro fession. Both he and his estimable wife still reside in Vinton and are members of the Presbyterian church of that place. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 193 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AS A WHOLE. In the score and a half, more or less, of bio graphical sketches herein presented, it is readily admitted that they are very meagre and imper fect; but as a matter of necessity, only the barest outline of the persons mentioned could be given in a work of this kind. Their main features and characteristics, how ever, I trust will be recognized by those who knew them, as true to life. In the cases of a few there were blemishes, either real or imaginary in their lives that will be recalled by some of the readers of these pages, and it will not be denied that, not only these, but all whose names appear here, were more or less imperfect, otherwise they would hardly be recognized as human beings. But of these blemishes and imperfections I have not spoken, nor have I the heart to do so. That part I will leave to others whose tastes would lead them in that direction. I have perferred rather to present photographs in which the main features of the lives sketched will be readily recognized while they appear not in their best attire, perhaps, but in decent every day garb, with the scars and blemishes left in the background. Imperfection prevails everywhere among men. "There is none that doeth good, no not one." "Let him that is without sin cast the first stone." But of the men and women here mentioned, I challenge any one to present a like number, chosen from any community or any city, in any stage of their development, whose characters will bear a 194 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND closer scrutiny, or who will rank higher in the scale of morality and intelligence than they. The fact is the vast majority of them were men and women of sterling qualities and of a decided re ligious character. It was not horse-thieves and outlaws that laid the foundations of this com munity — these were but transient and incidental — but they were men and women of worth, who were possessed of courage, of strong' religious convictions and of genuine enterprise that left their impress upon, and gave direction to those educational, benevolent, and religious institutions which are now the pride of our city and of the country at large. There always has been, and there is still a deep undercurrent OI moral and religious sentiment here that has been healthful and stimulating to every interest that goes to make up the bright record of a truly great and good people. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 195 CHAPTER XV. SCHOOLS, MUSIC AND RELIGIOUS SERVICES. As elsewhere related the first school ever taught here was by Mrs. John Vard}7 in her own house. The first Sunday school was also established in this house, Mr. Vardy, and Mr. Shearer, and Mr. Joseph Greene, and Mr. Alexander L. Ely acting at different times as superintendent, al though my impression is that none of them were formally elected to the office, the school not hav ing as yet become fully organized. Both the day and Sabbath schools were begun in 1843, as nearly as Mr. Henry Vardy can recollect. Later these schools were carried on in the building elsewhere described as the "Long Ornery" on the ground now occupied by the "Granby," corner of Third avenue and Second street. The day school in that building was taught by Miss Susan Abbe, daughter of Esquire Abbe, whose name is men tioned in other places in these records. The Sabbath school, after being transferred to this building, was properly organized, and, I be lieve, Mr. Alexander L. Ely was the first super intendent, and Mr. Joseph Greene assistant. The first school building erected was the work of private enterprise, N. B. Brown, George Greene, Alexander L. Ely and others being the active ag'ents in its construction. It was erected in 1846-7, and was afterwards sold to the district. 196 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND It stood on the corner of Second avenue and Fifth street, diagonally across the street from the Congregational church. The first teacher of the winter school in this building was Mr. Charles Taylor, a man well fitted for the position, and highly regarded by both pupils and their parents. Miss Sarah Weare taught school in this build ing in a very early day. This building was used by all christian de nominations for their services and for public gatherings of all kinds. On April 6, 1848, the Presbytery of Des Moines met in this building, one part of their work being the ordination to the Gospel ministry of Mr. Glen Wood, a recent graduate of Yale College, and Yale Theological Seminary. This was the first ordination service, so far as I know, that ever oc curred in this city. Certain it is that it was the first I ever witnessed. The First Presbyterian church was organized in this building July 9, 1847, by Revs. Julius A. Reed and Bennett Roberts, the charter members being, John Vardy, Frederick Grambo and wife, Barnet Lutz and wife, Isaac Listebarger and wife and Alexander L. Ely and wife. Rev. Bennett Roberts was the first stated minister, his home being in Marion. He was a man of marked ability and of the purest christian character. He was a very diffident man, and hardly had the confidence to look his audience in the face. His sermons, however, were often very power- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. i97 ful, his singular expressions of countenance, and his peculiar manner of delivery seeming to make his discourses all the more impressive. His reading of hymns was unlike anything I ever heard, but at the same time deeply impres sive. Those who had the privileg-e of hearing him will never forg-et the solemn expression of his countenance and the peculiar intonations of voice when he read the old hymn so often sung in years gone by: "Behold a stranger at the door, He gently knocks has knocked before, Has waited long, is waiting still, You treat no other friend so ill." The services were very simple and unosten tatious in those early days, but I doubt if there has ever been a truer devotional spirit, or more accept able worship offered to the Most High, in the more elaborate and stately worship of recent years. MUSIC OF EARLY TIMES. I do not think our music in those primitive times would have been considered first-class by our modern educated musicians. Pipe organs and pianos and reed organs were rarely to be thought of, much less to be possessed by anybody in this region. In fact there was no place to put them even if they had been furnished free of charge. And yet let no one think that we were without any music of any kind. There were some very sweet voices among our 198 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND pioneers, although the variety of music was some what limited. Of course there were then, as there are now, persons whose voices "were anything but melodious, and they were usually the loudest sing ers, and their selections were often of the most grotesque and singular character. It would sound very strange to cultivated ears in our modern religious assemblies to hear some good old woman with faltering voice, break out in a voluntary solo, with words and tune such as few ever heard before, or would ever wish to hear again. Still they seemed to enjoy it, if nobody else did, and no one had any desire to abridge their privileges or interfere with their enjoyment. One venerable woman would break out with that very unique old song which somebody had at some time imagined to be poetry: "There was a man in ancient times The Scripture doth inform us." Nor would she cease till the whole six or eight verses had been sung to the end. And then at another time we would be treated to that other memorable piece of composition, one verse of which ran as follows: "Oh where is good old Daniel? Safe in the promised land By and by we'll go and meet him, Safe in the promised land." This of course could be run out indefinitely including all the major and minor prophets, as well as the later worthies of the New Testament. And, as any one could add to it at will; when it CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 199 was once begun, there was no telling when or where it would end. Nevertheless with all these minor infelicities we had some very good singing. In our religious gatherings the singing was often hearty and sincere, and full of the spirit of wor ship, although not so artistically rendered as some might wish in this critical age. And then in our own homes and around our own family firesides the singing of songs and hymns was no uncommon thing, and the music seemed to be as thoroughly enjoyed as that which is now practiced in our more cultured circles. My father and mother both possessed very good voices. My mother's voice was especially clear and musical. Of course, to me, it was the sweetest voice I ever heard. Others might have thought quite differently about it, but as I recall it from my present stand point I am inclined to think that my boyhood estimate of her musical talents was not much exaggerated. There was a little song she used to sing, the tune of which is still fresh in my memory, but I can only recall a few sentences of the words, but they were words of hopefulness and good cheer, and "were so characteristic of her that I feel in clined to give them. They ran something like this: "With an ambling pad pony to pace o'er the lawn, While I carol away idle sorrow, As blithe as the rose which each day hails the dawn, Look forward with hope for to-morrow. Then there were some of the good old hymns 200 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND that still find a place in many of the collections of our present day hymn books, such as: "Oh for a thousand tongues to sing My Great Redeemer's praise," and "Am I a soldier of the cross," and many others which are familiar to us at this time. And then there were others that for some reason are seldom seen now, although they had in them thoughts that were very inspiring. Among these were: "Peace, troubled soul, thou needst not fear Thy great Provider still is near : Who fed thee last will feed thee still, Be calm and sink into His will." And then that other one so full of consolation to the believer. "Though troubles assail and dangers affright, Though friends should all fail and foes all unite, Yet one thing secures us whatever betide The promise assures us, the Lord will provide." And so it was that many pleasant hours were spent, as we sang in our pioneer homes and public gatherings. A little later in our history more attention was given to vocal culture, and singing schools were organized and very good teachers were secured to train and cultivate the voices of our young people. One of the best teachers we ever had, and who did more than any other to elevate the standard of music, was the Rev. Williston Jones. At first the only musical instruments we had were the base viol and violin, together with the ever- present and indispensable tuning-fork, which were CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 201 all that were necessary to hold the young musi cians up to the required pitch, in their rehearsals. These singing schools became quite popular, and Mr. Jones succeeded in arousing an interest on the subject of music such as had not been known up to that time. He always had a large choir in his congregation, and the improvement in singing from that time on. was as marked as it was pleasing to note. Of course from our present standpoint these early efforts at vocal culture may seem quite crude and unimportant, but yet it was an honest effort in a good cause and in the right direction, and who can say but that the good effects of those early efforts are not being felt to some extent even now? At any rate I am sure that much good was accomplished at the time, and the sum total of pioneer enjoyment was greatly increased by the music and musicians of those early days. 202 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER XVI. THE INDIANS. Although the strip of country which includes Linn county had been purchased by the govern ment from the Indians, a year previous to our ar rival, yet they lingered about their old hunting grounds in great numbers, apparently loath to turn their backs upon the beautiful country that had been their home so long, and whose ample hunting grounds had afforded them such abundant supplies of game. There are few, if any, people in this country who are not familiar with the fact that the habit of the Indians is to travel in single file, so that when a company of one or two hun dred passes over any region of country for the first time, it is sufficient to make a well beaten trail by the time the last one comes along. But I think there are not many who can realize what a strange sight it is to see these long drawn out caravans moving along mounted on their ponies. The old chief or leader riding in advance followed by his warriors and hunters; the squaws riding on the right instead of the left side of the pony; the papooses stowed away in baskets or bags that were swung over the backs of the ponies; the tents and rush mattings covering up some of these little pack horses so that you could scarcely see them, all following on one after another in a string that would seem almost interminable. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 203 One of their trails passed over the mound, and it was indeed a picturesque sight to which we were often treated to see these long caravans passing over on their way to some new camping ground. This trail led down through the woods to the slough where they seemed fond of camping, prob ably on account of the fish, muskrats and other game that were found in that locality. Another trail passed along further to the east, being the same that we followed when we first came to our claim, and the only road we had for some time leading to Marion. After leaving our first cam-ping place it led on over the hill near Mr. Soutter's residence, thence through the tall -grass on the Bever farm, and so on throug'h the Higley farm coming out where Fifth avenue now is and thence down to the river. This was the first and only road traveled for some time be tween Marion and Cedar Rapids. Of course the Indian trail was afterwards converted into a wagon road, but its crooks and turns must have made the distance between the two prospective towns at least one mile greater than it is now on the broad boulevard. The Indians were very fond of making maple sugar, and even after they had been removed to their new home further west, they would return in the spring to engage in their old occupation of sugar making. I remember that one time when visiting one of the sugar camps the older men and Indians got up 204 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND a wrestling match between us boys and the young Indians of our size and age. I found the one that I had the contest with as quick and active as a kitten and a hard one to handle. I do not remem ber who came out best, but I presume the Indian did, otherwise I would have remembered it, had I been victor. At any rate, it afforded fine sport for the onlookers, and we found that even a stoic al Indian could relax his countenance into a broad smile and somtimes could break out into quite a hearty laugh. This meeting with an Indian boy was a new ex perience to me but that experience was not with out its beneficial results. For one thing I made the important discovery at that time that the Indians had not yet learned the use of the fine comb. For some time after that close contact with the Indian boy my head felt quite uncomfortable, but with the careful attention which I received, I soon recovered my normal condition. I could never rid myself, however, of the salutary impression made upon my mind, at that time, that it was not best to be on too familiar terms with these red- skinned youngsters. And so that one experience was enough to last me a lifetime. I have never wrestled with one from that day to this. The Musquakie Indians who occupied this coun try, were made up of two weaker tribes, the Sac's and Foxes. They were always peaceable, and I do not remember that they ever did us any harm, except perhaps to annoy us a little by begging. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 205 But all we had to do at such times was to say "Puck-a-chee", which means go away, and they would generally retreat in good order and with out complaint. There was one winter a camp of Indians on the slough, and among them there was one who own ed a remarkably fine iron gray mule. He was probably worth two or three common ponies, and so of course the dusky owner was very proud of him. One night the mule was stolen, and the poor old Indian was nearly heart broken over his loss. He came the next morning quite early to our house, and tried to tell us of his great loss. He had made the discovery that it was a white man and not an Indian that had perpetrated the deed. He saw a pair of father's shoes and he went and picked them up to show us that the tracks in the snow "were made with shoes and not moccasins such as the Indians wore. These facts being brought out in the interview, father wrote them down together with a description of the mule, and directed the Indian to go on to Marion to see what could be done about it. The result was that a company of men was soon organized and set out in hot pursuit of the thief. In a few days they returned with both the mule and the thief, the former being delivered over to the owner, and the latter being confined in jail to await his trial. They found the thief in Wisconsin and at the next term of court he was duly tried and sentenced to the penitentiary, 206 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND where he had ample time to reflect on the fact that although there were a few horse-thieves in Linn county, the majority of the people were law- abiding citizens and were determined that crime should be punished, even though it had been com mitted against a poor old Indian. Sometimes we would hear reports that the Indians were on the war-path, and of course there would be a good deal of uneasiness among the settlers, until the reports proved to be without foundation, which was always the case. It is said that on one occasion one of the deni zens of the village on the Cedar river had some business at Marion which detained him till after dark. Approaching his home late in the evening, he heard a great noise and confusion that filled him with alarm. There was no mistaking those fearful yells and that ominous noise and confusion. Of course it was the Indians who were murder ing the people and devastating the town. Thus mused the lonely night traveler; and so, turning his horse he rode back to Marion with all possi ble speed, and spread the news of the wholesale massacre of the people at Cedar Rapids. Later it was discovered that there had been a wedding' that evening and the boys were indulg ing in a little sport in the way of a charivari. It was a long time before our frightened fellow-citi zen heard the last of the Indian scare. There is one thing- that is worthy of note in re gard to the Indians of those early days, and that is their honesty in the matter of paying their CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 207 debts. The merchants traded with them quite extensively, and often trusted them to considera ble amounts, for which they would take their notes. They would take hold of the pen in a very awkward way and make their mark while the merchant would write down their long, jaw- breaking names which they would pronounce in his hearing. Sometimes the payments were long delayed, but the Indians never failed to come at last and pay their debts and take up the notes. One peculiarity of their doing things was that they wanted to go to the very spot where they bought the goods and then pay for them article by article as they purchased them. Mr. Hook changed his place of business at one time before the Indians were ready to pay their debts, and so he always had to go back to the old stand before they were ready for business, and then they would recall the articles one by one and pay for them separately. It was said of one Indian who traded with Greene & Bros., that he died before the debt was paid, but his friends came and brought a pony which they turned over to their creditors, and so settled the account. 208 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CHAPTER XVII. THE EXCEPTIONALS. — THE BROADY'S. Mr. Knowls did not hold on very long to his mound claim. It was probably not more than a year after our coming that he sold it to a large family, familiarly known as the Broady's. The family consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Broady, with five sons, John, Hugh, William, Stephen and Jesse; with three daughters, Mrs. Mitchell, Hannah and Jane, and the son-in-law, Mr. Mitchell. The name was in bad odor, and consequently the whole family had to suffer the reproach. From my remembrance of them, however, as a boy, I am not prepared to join in the wholesale condemnation of the entire family. Bill and Steve and Jesse were notorious horse thieves, and all of them were finally convicted of crime and had to suffer the penalty of the law for their mis deeds. I remember Steve, especially, as a fine looking young man, with keen, black eyes, rather short and muscular, and as active as a cat. With one bound he would spring from the ground into the saddle of his fine steed without touching anything except the horn of the saddle with his left hand. He was shockingly profane, and bore every mark of being a bad character. Of the two older brothers I do not remember to have ever heard anything amiss. For aught I CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 209 know to the contrary they were honest men. I have heard it said that the old man was some what light-fingered, and that it was not alto gether safe to leave anything lying around loose that he could get hold of without being- observed. As to the women of that household I never heard a word against them. They appeared well and "were good neighbors. The youngest daughter, Jane, was a young lady of rare attractions, beautiful in person and lady like in her deportment, and her reputation was that of a good honest girl. We saw more or less of the family during the one or two years that they lived on the mound farm, but we had very little to do with them in the way of business of any kind, and we were very glad that they did not in any way molest us. We had one very valuable mare that must have been a strong and constant temptation to the thieves, and we had g-ood evidence that they had tried their best to capture her as she was running loose on the prairie. But fortunately for us, though inconvenient at times, this beautiful ani mal was very hard to catch. But for this fact there is no doubt she would have been stolen. After leaving here the elder Mr. Broady went into a county north of us where he located and spent the residue of his life. He died many years ago. The older sons, I understand, are still living in this state and are regarded as honest men and good citizens. Some of them it is reported are 210 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND professors of religion and are living consistent christian lives. Although compelled to write as I have done with regard to some of the members of the family, it gives me unfeigned pleasure to make mention of those who are endeavoring to live honest and upright lives. It is a consoling thought that God knows the heart, and no matter what our relatives may do, we are not held responsible for their misdeeds. JOEL LEVERICH. The mound farm did not remain long in the possession of the Broady's, possibly a year and a half, when it came into the possession of the notorious Joel Leverich. Everybody knew him and everybody dreaded him, especially when he was under the influence of liquor, which was often the case. Even his best friends then felt it to be prudent to give him a wide berth, not knowing what instant he would take it into his head to knock them down. Whiskey seemed to make a demon of him, and to attempt to reason with him while under its influ ence would have been as futile as to try to reason with a cyclone. His poor wife, a most patient and estimable christian woman, would sometimes hide away from him for days, lest in his fits of un controlled and uncontrollable passion he might take her life. And yet "Old Joe," as he was pop ularly called, had a good deal of influence in the community. He was a strong- partisan politician CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 211 and whoever arrayed himself against him, was sure to have a hard battle to fight, and in the end would very likely meet with defeat. He was as keen and cunning and wily as the old serpent himself, and it was very hard to circumvent him in his plans. He was accused of harboring horse thieves and of making couterfeit money. As to whether he ever did either or not I could not say, but I remember well hearing him say that he "could make a little the cleanest bogus of any man in the country, and that old McKnight would not refuse it." Mr. McKnight was the United States officer whose duty it was to receive the money from the settlers when they came to enter or pay for their lands. And so of course any money that would pass current with him would have to be a remarkably good imitation of the genuine coin. But there can be no doubt that by such remarks Mr. Lev erich wished to leave the impression that he had nothing to do with counterfeiting in any way. But however guilty he may have been, he was so shrewd and so sly that no one could ever convict him, although the attempt was several times made. But as bad as he was himself it pleased him tp have any one speak well of his wife, although he was so cruel to her in his own treatment. Judge Parvin tells me that years ago when Mr. Leverich lived near Muscatine, he was brought up in court for conterfeiting, Mr. Parvin at that 212 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND time acting as district attorney for that district and his home being in Muscatine. The evidence seemed strong against Leverich, aud Mr. Parvin had no doubt of his guilt. In the course of his plea in behalf of the state, v he took occasion to denounce the prisoner in the severest terms; and looking him square in the face and pointing his finger at him he said "it was a burning shame and disgrace that a man of his intelligence and ability should degrade himself and his family by engaging in such villainous work". Continuing his plea he said, "I under stand that he has a noble christian wife at home; why could he not devote those noble God-given faculties of his to better purposes, and so prove an honor and blessing to her whom he had sworn to love aud cherish, instead of bringing upon her untold sorrow and disgrace". In the evening after court had adjourned and Mr. Parvin was at the hotel, Mr. Leverich called at the door and de sired to speak with the district attorney. Some of Mr. Parvin's friends warned him not to go out, for Joe Leverich would be likely to kill him. Mr. Parvin, however promptly went to the door, and as he closed it after him he stood a moment with his hand on the knob. "Let g-o of that knob," "said Leverich". "Are you not afraid of me"? "No", said Mr. Parvin. "You are able to kill me if you choose, but one thing you cannot do. You cannot scare me. "Well said Joe" I admire your pluck, but I did not come to scare you nor to hurt you, but you told the truth about my wife. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 213 She is a good woman and I would be glad to have you see her, and I am sure she would be glad to see you. If ever you come our way I would be g-lad to have vou come and spend the nig-ht with us, and you shall have the best the house affords". Sometime after that Mr. Parvin passed that way and he decided to accept Mr. Leverieh's in vitation. Calling- at the door Mrs. Leverich met him, and when he made himself known she kindly received him into her home. After awhile Mr. Leverich came in and was equally cordial in his greeting, and so Mr. Parvin spent a very pleasant nig'ht with them. Mr. Leverich was an out and out infidel, his favorite book being- Tom Paine's "Age of Rea son," his copy of that work being the only one, I believe, I ever saw. The names he chose for his sons will readily indicate the bent of his mind on that subject. They were Chauncy, Volney, Voltaire and Hume. The daughters were Maria and Frances Wright, both of them, I believe, worthy daughters of a good christian mother. Towards the close of his life his stomach be came so inflamed and diseased by his intemperate habits that he was compelled to desist from his cups, sometimes for weeks together. But the fatal spell was upon him, and he continued to have his periodical sprees to the end of his life. In his last illness Dr. Ely was called in to at tend him. His brother James, who was keeping 214 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND a saloon at that time, was anxious to know the result of the doctor's examination. The doctor frankly told him that Joe's sickness was the re sult of his long life of dissipation, and that his stomach was eaten up by ulcers. James could scarcely believe that the use of alcohol could pro duce such direful effects, and if convinced of the fact, said he would cease to sell the poisonous stuff any longer. After the death of Mr. Leverich, James re quested a post-mortem examination, and Dr. Ely showed him the stomach in the precise condition that he had before described it. And so, true to his word, James closed out his business and en gaged in something less harmful to his fellow- men. I think it was 1842 or 1843 that Mr. Leverich sold out his claim to Judge Greene. For a time after that he lived near the McLeod springs, and then later moved to town where he died not many years after, unmourned and un wept. His profligate life shortened his days and ended his career. Sometime before his death, I was told, that he uttered the poor dying infidel's prayer: "O God, if there be a God, have mercy on my soul, if I have a soul." And so we turn away from the sad scene of a wrecked life. Poor old Joe! He had a hard and unhappy life and a bitter, gloomy end. cEdar rapids, iowa. 215 CHAPTER XVIII. THE FIRST STEAMBOAT. An event which excited a good deal of interest in an early day was the coming of a steamboat to our town. It was a stern wheel boat of moderate dimensions, and was called the "Maid of Iowa." The time was probably in June 1844. The puf fing of its engine and the scream of its whistle were the grandest music we had ever heard in these parts. There was something so fascinating' about this boat that the people flocked to the river for miles around to see it. And not satisfied with that, they prevailed on the captain to give them an excursion down the river a few miles, in which a goodly number participated, sharing also in a splendid dinner, such as only steamboat men know how to prepare. There were no dams then to ob struct navigation and the river was at a fine stage, and there was clear sailing. The captain told my father that he had no more trouble in navigating the Cedar than the Mississippi, a remark which greatly pleased him, as it inspired the hope of better markets for our produce and cheaper and easier transportation for our supplies. After this, other boats came up occasionally, and finally one or two small steamers were built and operated by our own people, and besides, in earlier times, fiatboats and barges were built so that altogether the river navigation proved a great 216 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND advantage to the pioneers in those days before railroads were dreamed of in Iowa. But the most of the year the river was so low that no boat could navigate it with any ease or profit, and so at best it was a poor substitute and an unreliable means of transportation, compared with which even a canal boat would have been far superior. Looking at it from the stand point of our pres ent modes of travel on lightning express trains, and the transportation of freight with a speed that rivals the winds in fleetness, it looks as though these were indeed primitive times. But they "were fine times for the cultivation of the grace of patience. People were compelled then not only to labor but to wait, and often the waiting was the hardest part to perform. But the greatest blessing of the river was not to be in its navigation, but in the water power it afforded. But even this is no longer appreciated as it was years ago, as the power of steam has so largely taken its place and superseded its neces sity. Nevertheless the river constitutes one of the great charms of our city and of the country through which it passes, and millions of money would not induce the dwellers upon its beautiful and fertile banks to part with it. The river was the great attraction in the early history of the country, the clear water flowing over a rocky and gravel bottom presented a scene that delighted the new comers as they looked out upon its rippling surface. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 217 And then, besides this, it became more and more famous as time went on as one of the finest water powers in the state. It was this that attracted hither some of our most valued citizens. It was the confident expectation of the earliest settlers that Cedar Rapids would become an important manufacturing town, but probably none ever dreamed that in so short a time it would reach the magnificent proportions which is to-day realized, by our busy and prosperous population. AN EARLY RAILROAD PROJECT. The following account is furnished by a friend. The matter of railroad construction began to interest our enterprising people at quite an early day. It is worthy of mention that as early as 1849 Cedar Rapids became identified with a railroad project of great merit, namely the Dubuque and Keokuk Railroad, familiarly known as "The Ram's Horn." This company was organized for the construction of a line along the west bank of the Mississippi to compete with river transport ation which was greatly impeded over the rapids in low water much of the season. Through the efforts of Judge Greene, then residing at Dubuque, Dr. Ely of Cedar Rapids and others of Iowa City, the Company was induced to change the line so as to run from Dubuque to Keokuk via Cedar Rapids, Iowa City, Washington and Fairfield. In two successive sessions of Congress, Gen. 218 PIONEER liEe in AND around George W. Jones, United States Senator, succeed ed in getting bills through the Senate granting to the State the odd numbered sections of Govern ment land within a limit of six miles on both sides of the line to aid in building the road. But these bills failed to pass the House, chiefly through the influence of Representative Shepherd Leffler, whose home was at Burlington. After these very discouraging failures the company languished a while and finally relapsed into innocuous desue tude. But this line was afterwards virtually con structed, by the meeting of the Dubuque and Southwestern, and the Burlington, Cedar Rapids and Northern, at Cedar Rapids. This goes to show that although their first ef forts were abortive for the time being, our people were on the alert to open up thoroughfares of commerce for our city at as early a day as possible, and that their projects were judiciously conceived. "THE ASTOR HOUSE." The first house in Cedar Rapids has been de scribed somewhat minutely in the preceding pages. The second house deserves also a more extended notice than it has hitherto received. As already stated it was located on the river below Fourth avenue, and was erected by Mr. John Young, upon his claim. It was also known by the somewhat ambitious cognomen of the "Astor House," because of the fact that boarders were accommodated there for CEdAr rapiDs, iowA. 219 some years, it being the largest and best house in the place. It was a double log house probably about 18x26 and one story high. It fronted on the river, the roof on that side extending over three or four feet and forming a porch the whole length of the building. Afterwards there was a room built on to the front extending over the door, which answered for a kitchen. Still later there was a frame addition put on to the rear extending the entire length of the house, and a door made in the end and also one in the side. This practically changed the front of the house to the opposite side, making- it face on First street instead of the river. I am not able to tell who all of the occupants of this house were. Mr. Young being a bachelor, boarded at Sheperd's tavern. The first occupant was a Mr. Verbeck of Vermont, who with his wife and daughter, lived there a short time, and then went on further west, I believe. Mr. J. L. Shearer moved into it in 1842 and re mained there for two or three years. Afterwards it was occupied by Mr. John Weare, and by Mrs. Carroll, as elsewhere stated. The last occupant of it was Mr. James Hamilton, who had a large family. There were many things that occurred in this house that left a lasting impression upon the minds of its occupants, if not on the community at large. From this cabin Mr. and Mrs. Shearer follow- 220 pioneer liEe in and. around ed two of their children to their last resting-place in the grave, and two children, a little boy and girl, from the family of Mr. John Weare, passed away in the early morning of their days to the mysterious beyond, to return no more. The Car roll family, too, had their afflictions in the way of measles and other forms of disease, from which all recovered except the youngest member of the family, and she was spared for some years after wards, though ever after feeble in health, as the result of her illness at this time. One year the east room was occupied as a store by Mr. Hook. In the case of the last family,' they, too, had a good deal of sickness, and finally one of the family died with a disease so much like the cholera that a great deal of uneasiness was felt in the com munity. After this the family moved out, and this ended the history of the old ' 'Astor House. It was ordered to be torn down by the Board of Health, John F. Ely, M. D. being its chief officer. As to whether anybody objected, I can not say, but the order of the above named officer being, like that of the Medes and Persians, un changeable and irrevocable, was carried out to the letter; and so this primitive structure passed from the realm of visible things to be recalled only in dim outline to the memories of those who lived here in the days long gone by. :'The Astok House," Erected by Mr. John Yihiiik in 1H3M. Looking South. The Second House in Cedar Rapids. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 223 CHAPTER XIX. NOTES AND INCIDENTS BY MRS. ELIZABETH H. JONES. In 1844 there lived in the town of Aurora, New York, a young lady, who had just finished her education. Her name was Elizabeth H. Shearer. She was a half sister of John L. Shearer, Esq., who then lived in the little hamlet called Cedar Rapids, in Iowa Territory. Being well qualified to teach, and being possessed of a good deal of youthful enthusiasm, she conceived the idea of going west where she could support herself and carve out her own fortune. During- that summer the long- absent brother and son made a visit to his parents, and while he was there the decision was made that Miss Shearer should accompany her brother to his western home. She afterwards became the wife of Rev. Williston Jones who came to Cedar Rapids iu the spring of 1848 to take charge of the First Presbyterian church. It was during this residence of eight years as the pastor's wife that Mrs. Jones became so well and favor ably known all over this reg'ion of country. At the green old ag'e of seventy two years she is still living in comparative health at Wellesley, Massachusetts, where her daughter holds the honorable position of physician and professor in the celebrated female college, located at that place. 224 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND Some months ago her niece and namesake, Miss Elizabeth J. Shearer, wrote to her aunt request ing her to write out an account of her first visit to Cedar Rapids, giving a description of such in cidents and experiences as she could call to mind. Mrs. Jones readily complied with the request, with the expectation that her reminiscences should be for the benefit of her immediate relatives and friends who reside here. Having been permitted to hear that paper read it seemed to me eminently proper and desirable that it should be given to the public. The descriptions given are so graphic and so true in detail, as several living witnesses can testify, that I am sure that it will find many deeply interested readers. Having obtained permission from the owner of this document, as well as from the author herself, to make such use of it in these reminiscences as I deemed best, I give that portion of it which re lates to Iowa. After a long and tedious journey from Aurora to Buffalo, Detroit, Ypsilanti, Kalamazoo, Alegan, St. Joseph, Chicago and Galena, in which several different modes of travel had been employed, we at last find our weary travelers at a private boarding house in Dubuque, where Judge Greene and family were then boarding. At this point Mrs. Jones shall take the pen and describe the rest of her journey, and her adventures for the following eight months after she reached her destination. She is speaking to her niece, but as we are in- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 225 vited guests, it will be considered no breach of etiquette if we listen to all that is said. PRIVATE BOARDING HOUSE, DUBUQUE, IOWA. "Here we came to a full pause, and had to re main four days when so near the end of our journey, waiting for Judge Greene's horse and buggy which had gone up into Wisconsin to take his law partner to try a lawsuit. There was then in Dubuque no livery stable, no reputable hotel and no stage route west, the mails were taken once a week on horseback into the interior of Wisconsin and Iowa, and letters were eighteen cents postage without envelopes, so you can easily imagine that there were fewer letters written and the mails much lighter than at the present day. I give the incidents of this journey in detail that you may see how very different are the modes of living and locomotion at the present day from what they were just fifty years ago. Nowhere now, in the far extended and broad west, is such tardy traveling- a necessity, nor would it be en dured by the rushing multitudes, who would almost build and equip a railroad in the time that journey was accomplished. "Now, over these same broad highly cultivated acres, then a vast uninhabited wilderness, in palace cars with multiplied modern improvements the people rush on, impatient at the slightest delay, when not many more hours are consumed than it took days then to perform that journey: now passing through many flourishing towns and 226 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND cities and stopping when necessary at palatial hotels. What a contrast in our country between now and fifty years ago! "You can easily imagine how restless and impa tient your father must have been after so long an absence from his little family from whom he had not heard during that long weary journey, to be detained so long when so near the end; if he had not had a young lady to tow along, he would have taken trotter's express and soon been at home; as it was, there was no alternative but to wait the moving of the feeble trotting horse which came in late at night tired from the Wisconsin lawsuit, the result of which, a pale, intellectual student like looking lawyer, Mr. Merritt, (Mrs. Greene's brother), brought to the senior partner. "The next morning, without waiting for the horse to rest, we started bright and early for Cedar Rapids, there being only two houses then where travelers were entertained on the way be tween Dubuque and Marion, the first only thir teen miles from Dubuque, the other somewhere far beyond half of the distance between the two places, which must be made before we slept. "We traveled on with our tired steed till mid day, when we stopped by the way on the tree less prairie to eat the lunch with which we had been provided, and to let the horse refresh himself on the prairie grass. "We both grew very weary through the long afternoon, but our courage revived as we neared the "Traveler's Inn" about nine or ten o'clock; CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 227 but alas! it sunk again, when, in crossing a creek three-quarters of a mile from the house, the buggy which had seemed rather insecure, broke down in the midst of the stream. I cannot remember now how I was extricated from the broken vehicle, (but I think by walking on one of the thills), or how the buggy was gotten on to dry land, but I know both of us\valked the rest of the way and that the Inn was full when we got there, and that the salt pork and Indian bread tasted good. "The houses on the prairies in those days were like the omnibuses and street cars of the present time, there was always room for one more or rather all who came, so of course we were taken in, and I slept profoundly in the same room with thirteen men, one of them being your father. "The sleeping arrangements in the houses of those early times "were often most amusing, but the genuine hospitality of those early settlers' was equal to any extension of bedding and the shar ing of all the larder contained. "The s'weet simplicity and rare open-hearted- ness, one of the charms of those early times of plain living, have greatly deteriorated in the intro duction of more stately and luxurious styles. You could see them gradually die out in the glare of greater pomp and glitter. "The next morning the buggy was ingeniously repaired with ropes and we journeyed on to Marion where we stopped and took dinner with Mrs. Earl, having some messages and packages 228 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND for her, from her sister Mrs. Greene. Mrs. Earl gave us a warm welcome, and the cheering news that all was well at Cedar Rapids, we hastened on with light hearts. Marion had then a small cluster of comfortable looking houses and a small court house, being then as now the shiretown of the county, and was a place of several hundred inhabitants, but Cedar Rapids lay an almost un broken plain upon the river bank, dotted with four or five log cabins and two partially framed buildings, one a small, very odd-looking dwelling house, the other designed for a store in the near future. A grove on two sides completed the real view of this famed city, like many another well- developed on paper. In the distance on the op posite side of the river could be seen two or three other log cabins. "home at last. "As we neared the log house nearest the river, the family were on the lookout and met us with tearful smiles, and a warm welcome. Your mother was most grateful for the safe return of your father and greeted me as a sister to be loved. Cynthia, the first-born, who adored her father, was so over-joyed, she could not keep back the tears from her large, blue eyes; winsome Mary's face was wreathed in smiles and her little eyes were radiant with delight, and Henry, the little, toddling boy, his father's man, had not forgotten his right-of-way to his papa's knee. "It was a glad household that beautiful after- CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 229 noon, all were so happy to have father home again, and they had many things to tell of the happen ings during his absence; each had her little stock of news to deliver. They had all been well, and had gotten on nicely which was indeed cause for gratitude and rejoicing. "Our trunks came a week later by the slow but safe conveyance of an ox-team, and the horse and buggy were sent back a few days after our arrival by a man who wished to go to Dubuque on business. "I was soon settled and made to feel perfectly at home in this family of which you wish me to write, and of which you and John had not then become visible members. Your mother had not been alone with her little ones in your father's absence, for her brother, Henry Weare and Joseph Greene, were members of the family as boarders. "Your Uncle Henry was a very reserved, taci turn young man, seldom joining in conversation at the table or on other occasions, quite unlike any of your other uncles on the Weare side; he always seemed lost in thought and pre-occupied, and I never got acquainted with him. But Joseph was loquacious to a remarkable deg-ree, good natured and kind-hearted, and would take kindly any amount of bantering. The two young- men were as unlike as could well be. Your mother and I were very congenial and at once became fast friends, which friendship knew no clouds, and continued unbroken as long as she lived. I had great admiration of her ready resources and her ability to overcome difficulties that seemed to me 230 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND insurmountable; she had great fortitude and im mense endurance, and would rise above trials, reverses and sorrows, that would have crushed a weaker character. She was a very superior woman, and under all circumstances was a power for good and her influence helpful. She 'looked well to the ways of her household' and ate not 'the bread of idleness' and was a comforter of many, she was strong, noble, kind, and generous, full of sympathy for all in trouble and in bearing their burdens forgot her own. "She was a motherly sister to me in my youth ful inexperience, to whom I could tell and confide everything. She was very entertaining, having always a fund of anecdotes, adventures and solid sense from which to discourse; so with Joseph to give variety, we always had a most enjoyable social time with our frugal meals. Your father was more like your Uncle Henry staid and quiet and his opinions had to be drawn out. He was a man usually of few words, but with a mind of his own, which he could express quite freely, and sharply when he thought circumstances demand ed outspoken language, but usually he was of 'a meek and quiet spirit,' a friendly and kind neighbor, rejoicing in the well-being of all about him, not envying- the greater prosperity of others or reflecting unkindly on any unjust treatment in business affairs, but submitted patiently to the many trials and reverses of his life, and though great success never seemed to crown his efforts, CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 231 he was throug-h life that 'noblest work of God an honest man.' "As there was no church near, your father and mother had established a little Sabbath school, for the few children in the neighborhood, your father acting as superintendent. The school was held in an unfinished room in the one framed house (Mr. Vardy's). I joined as teacher, having the largest girls, of which Cynthia was one. I enjoy ed the children, taug-ht Cynthia and Mary, and tog-ether we roamed over the prairies, the grove, and by the river, and occasionally visited the neighbors. The fall was very pleasant and I did not feel the least lonely or homesick. "THE VISIT AT THE HOME OF MR. E. T. LEWIS. "Joseph (everybody then called him Joe Greene) often talked of giving me a ride if he could only find a suitable 'rig', which, after many ineffectual attempts, he finally succeeded in doing, on the oc casion of his having received an invitation to take me about three miles to a Mr. Lewis' to eat watermelons. So he started off in the morning to find a horse and vehicle, intending to be back in time for dinner. "Expecting we should start soon after dinner, I dressed before, and your mother finally delayed the dinner awaiting Joseph's coming, but Joseph did not put in an appearance, and so we ate our dinner and waited on. Your mother who was as much interested in the expedition as I, watched anxiously for his arrival, not wanting me to be 232 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND disappointed in my first chance to go a visiting. So we continued to watch and wait, until I be came entirely discouraged and ready to give it up as a lost opportunity, when an equipage ponder ous, unique and grotesque, came dashing up to the door, the driver quite lost to view in the huge proportion of the vehicle, which looked as though it must have come down from primeval times, a survival of the flood or a remnant of the ark, and the animals attached to this prodigious wagon, looked strang'e and ancient enough to have helped draw the ark on to dry ground. Behold the steeds! One horse was of gigantic proportions, and illy developed with some protuberances that reminded us of a rhinoceros, the other was a small ill-fed pony. "We were convulsed with laughter over this incongruous team and at once gave them the names of Rhinoceros and Lilliputian. "The harness beggars description, so heavy and wide that it covered the pony as armor, though so loosely that it well-nigh fell off with every move ment. It fitted the large one better but only to add to the grotesqueness of the mammoth animal. "The problem now was, how to mount into this 'prairie schooner', (the name I learned of this remarkable conveyance for prairie locomotion), a modern gymnast with wings might have been equal to it, but I was powerless for such a feat! but with the aid of a barrel, stools etc., (there were no step ladders there in those days), Joseph and your mother together pitched me in, and CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 233 between three and four o'clock we started, your mother cheering- us on and watching us in great amusement till out of sight. "After riding about a mile, we stopped and took in two young men and one young lady, (the Cooks and Carroll, your Aunt Kate, it seems to me, went; the young men I know did) and then rode on, the horses travelling better , than might have been expected. "We came in sight of the house of our destin ation and were expecting to ride up with great eclat, when, coming to a slight elevation in the road, the horses suddenly balked! Joseph whip ped up and urged them forward, but this only had the effect to enrage them and they began to back and twist the 'schooner' till this young lady got thoroughly frightened, fearing this im mense structure might be overturned and, she buried beneath the ruins; so I insisted, woman fashion, in getting out, much to the chagrin of Joseph. How the three young men got me out, I cannot say, but I came out quicker than I went in. Then the horses without further trouble went briskly up the little hill. As we were so near, I would not get in again, but walked on abreast the gay equipage containing the three young men, and I think, the other young lady. ' 'We were hospitably received, had plenty of melons, stayed to supper, had a pleasant visit, and returned safely home by moonlight, without any further adventure. "On our way home Joseph told me the herculean 234 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND task he had to secure this entertainment for me. He had spent all the day but the margin we oc cupied in our ride and visit, in hunting up this unique establishment, crossing the river and walk ing many miles to fit it up, finding one horse in one place, the other miles away, and the 'schooner' miles in another direction, fitting up a harness for one of the horses (the smaller I presume) and he must return at least spme part of this useful equipage before the next morning. Could any thing exceed such gallantry and heroic exertion? I ought to have been most grateful and I trust I was kindly appreciative; at any rate it fur nished us no small amount of fun and a subject for racy conservation, Joseph entering into it as heartily as the rest of us. "THE EMPTY LARDER. "In those days of 'plain living' and 'high thinking' undisturbed nature in its vastness giv ing a wide range to thought, we used to have voracious appetites; provisions were scarce and often obtained under great difficulties. At an earlier day your father had been sixty miles to mill with oxen. At this time he had to go still many miles, and owing to some disappointment in procuring a team, the flour barrel or sack was empty (Cedar Rapids flour mills were then a prospect of the future, only the site being visible) and all the other provisions had dwindled down and disappeared before our insatiable appetites; so that on one certain day we had not only cleared CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 237 the table but the entire contents of the larder and remained afterwards at table a long time dis coursing in high spirits upon the novel situation, the feasibility of living- without food, wondering how it would seem to be fed by 'ravens' and kindred events, illustrated with anecdotes of hair-breadth escapes from starvation through miraculous interposition, etc. "This was my first experience of ever being- in a house where there was literally nothing- to eat; and though I made merry with the rest, my heart began to sink within me as I thought of my ravenous appetite depriving others, especially little children, of their necessary food. "As I remember, your father had already start ed, or was about to start, for fresh supplies of provisions, but when he would return was un certain. "There were several young people at Marion who had heard through Joseph and Mrs. Earl that there was a young lady 'from the East' at Mr. Shearer's; so one day a young lawyer, Mr. Sanford, called, ostensibly on some business with your father, but really deputed by the others to find out whether the young lady from the East, was one whose acquaintance it was worth while to make, and take into their select coterie. The p-entlemen, two of them, were from the far East and the ladies from Ohio. "It is supposed he reported favorably, for the next week, on this very day when we had remain ed in such hilarity at the table, wondering if any 238 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND one should come upon the scene, what they would think we had for dinner, and how we should feel when sent supperless to bed, a party of six came suddenly upon us to make a call, and invite the young people of the family to accompany them to the island down the river a little ways, to hunt wild grapes, where there was said to be an abundance. After a pleasant little call, we started off, your uncle Henry being in quite an unusually genial mood, was the life of the com pany, and Joseph was as obliging as ever. "Your mother knew some of these young peo ple, and had taken g-reat pleasure in introducing them to your uncle Henry and myself. They were Mr. and Mrs. Downing, recently married; Misses Laura Cheedle and Luxinna Hughes, (the Presbyterian' minister's wife's sister), Mr. San ford, the aforesaid lawyer, and Addison Daniels, the only merchant then in Marion and the only 'Daniels' then in all that region. "We started from the house about half past two o'clock and were gone less than three hours, and in the .excitement of making new acquaintances, and the fun and frolic of that woodland ramble; I quite forgot the domestic dilemma and the food problem I had so recently been pondering. Your mother had been left alone with the little children to face the situation and to solve the problem as best she could. When we returned from our wild grape quest, the Marion company declined com ing- into the house, for having- stayed longer than they expected, must hurry home, (the road was cEdar rapids, iowa. 239 longer then than now) but your mother came out and insisted on their staying to tea. I thought she was crazy and my heart began to sink within me. With not a morsel in the house, wherewith was she to feed so many? Without much urging they consented to stay. When we entered the house what a marvel met my astonished eyes! Tea was on the table before the company could wash their hands and make ready to sit down. "In modern parlance 'covers' for nine and your mother waited upon us all, most graciously, while all seeming to appreciate her hospitality, partook with the rarest relish of the dainty but abundant meal. I was lost in wonder and sur prise; warm biscuit and butter, dried brief, cake, custard, stewed dried currants and tea. "I thought I had never tasted anything so deli cious. How could anything so unexpected have happened? It seemed literally the work of fairies or rather a miracle than that of one poor, tired woman. I could hardly wait for the company to leave, before I began to ask what it meant. And I found this was the way it all came about. "After we left for our ramble the first thing your mother did was to set Cynthia to washing up the dishes while she washed out the best tablecloth, having first made up the fire in the stove which had gone out while we were talking at the table, mopped the floor, and then canvass ed the entire neighborhood for a 'loan exhibition' of such articles as each house afforded, as every thing for the evening meal was borrowed to be 240 PIONEER LlEE IN AND AROUND returned anon, except the currants, which we had dried at home for your father to bring with him for a little treat to the family, there being no cultivated fruit then west of the Mississippi. "Your mother had been to every house, six in number, not being able to obtain more than one article at any one place, then she returned, made and baked her cake, stewed her currants, made custard, ironed her tablecloth, set her table, made biscuit and tea,, changed her dress and was all ready to receive the company in that short space of time. Do you wonder that I thought your mother a remarkable woman? "Truly the day of miracles was not past in the year of our Lord 1844, and from that day on so far as I know 'the barrel of meal and cruse of oil' never gave out in that house again. "This was a wonderful experience for me and my faith grew exceedingly. "THE INDIAN VISITORS. "I had never seen any Indians save a few of the civilized Senecas near Buffalo and I expressed so great a desire to see some of the wild Indians of the West that your father promised when some encamped near enough, he would take me to their camp. "Ih the late fall, one bright, beautiful morning, when I was just getting up, your father called to me to hurry and come out doors for he had some thing for me to see. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 241 "I hurried on my dress and rushed out and saw a sight that delighted me. Just below the house crossing the river, was a company of Indian warriors on horses, dressed in full war-like cos tume, armed with knives and tomahawks, which glittered in the morning sun's rays as did bead wrought helmets and moccasins, while their stately and tall plumes nodded gracefully in the breeze. "It was a gay and striking cavalcade which came dashing past us as we stood gazing, I in great wonder and interest. "Your father who had formerly traded with some Indian tribes in Michigan could make him self understood by them and courteously saluted them as they passed, which salutation they gal lantly returned, pointing and telling I suppose where they were going, they pranced on, I look ing after them till they all disappeared in the for est beyond, and wishing they would return so that I could see more of them. "After nightfall, the same day, we were sitting- in pleasant converse before the large open fire place, in which small logs were burning briskly, sending forth a bright light, when suddenly the room filled up with numbers of Indians, who stole in so noiselessly that we had not the slightest sign of their approach till they were all about us, shorn of all the gay trapping-s of the morning, their blankets, even, ready to fall from their al most naked bodies. It seems that they had been to receive their semi-annual annuities from gov- 242 pioneer life in and around ernment to whom they had sold their 'hunting grounds' and, like many white men when paid off, had been where they could buy 'fire water', and this was the result. "Perhaps they made us the evening call because your father had shown himself so friendly, and we had all greeted them so heartily in the morn ing. Once in the house with the warmth of the fire they grew hilarious, then some quarrel began among themselves and they became ill-natured and boisterous. "I began to grow frightened and the moments grew long, and my alarm increased as I saw your mother was looking anxious, too. "Only one seemed composed and sober, and he, evidently seeing our fears, lighted the 'pipe of peace,' smoked and handed it to your father, who would not take it even when your mother urged him to do so, but insisted on their leaving, which they did not seem inclined to do. "My fears grew apace as their noise increased. I made my way into the darkness of the only room besides the one they occupied, imagining our selves all scalped, etc., with no possible help at hand, while all through the din, I could hear your father's imperative tones bidding them 'begone,' and your mother begging him to deal gently with them, for fear of further hostilities, while alone iu the dark, I prayed for Divine protection for us all. "Finally, the invaders left, and quiet was re stored, but what I suffered in that hour cannot be CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 243 described, and that whole night, I could not sleep, having the feeling that they would return and slay us all and burn the house. My curious- ity was fully satisfied, and I never wanted to see any more wild Indians." CHAPTER XX. MARION AND VICINITY. — BRIEF MENTIONS. I have not written much concerning the early inhabitants of Marion, simply because of my in ability to do justice to the many good citizens who lived there during the time which this record is designed to cover. It is to be hoped that some one who possesses the requisite knowledge and ability will write out a full and accurate history of the men and events of the early years of Linn county's capitol city. There were many names there in early years that were quite familiar to the writer in his boy hood days, with some of whom he has been per sonally acquainted. Some of them have already been noticed in these pages, other well known and respected citizens can only be mentioned by name as I recall them: Major J. T. McKean, and his brother, A. J. McKean; Samuel W. Durham, our popular and highly esteemed county surveyor of early times, a man of marked intelligence and of unsullied character, and one for whom the writer has al ways entertained feelings of the highest regard; 244 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND David Woodbridge and Henry D. Thompson, who opened the first store in Marion; J. C. Berry, the first county clerk; T. S. Ovington, the tailor; Robert Shinn, Hosea W. Gray, O.. S. Hall, the hotel keeper, Judge N. W. Isbell, J. E. Sanford, the shrewd lawyer; Thomas Downing, another tailor, and an honest one, who afterwards lived in Cedar Rapids for some years; Col. William Smyth, Dr. Bardwell, Dr. Tryon, John Zumbro, Richard Thomas, John Greer, Hiram Bales, Bartimeus McGonigal, Amory Keyes, Elijah Ev ans, J. E. Bromwell, Dean Cheedle, Joseph Mentzer, H. H. Welch, Ambrose Harland, the sheriff, George A. Patterson, and William J. Patterson, now of this city; the Messrs. Vaughn, George Gray, and his son Capt. Geo. A. Gray, for many years county surveyor, and many others whom I do not now recall. And then east of Mar iou were the Ives; the Jordans, the Bealls, the Harmons, the Daniels etc. And a little west were Rufus Lucore, the Hunters, John and William, and their venerable father, Thomas Hare, William Willis, Mr. Jones, John P. Glass, one of our sturdy farmers, who came to Linn county in 1845, locating at the McLeod Spring, where he built a carding" mill and woolen factory in an early day, and later erected a flouring mill, and whose history, together with that of his family would require a separate volume; all these and many more whom I cannot now enumerate. These were pioneers in and about Marion, who deserve a more extended CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 245 notice than I am able to give them in this little book. It was such men as these who laid the found ations upon which have been built up those in stitutions which are now our pride and our boast. The horse thieves and outlaws deserve mention only as "exceptionals" and "incidentals" in a new country, whose history, though brilliant perhaps in their own estimation, was brief. Most of them passed on to other scenes in this world or beyond it, and so peace and prosperity smiled upon our beautiful country. Looking back now to the days of prairie schooners, and ox teams and 25 cent letter post age, and comparing them with our palace cars and lightning express trains, our 2 cent postage, combined, with our telegraphic and telephonic methods of communication, it is with the greatest difficulty that we who lived in those early times can realize that we are still, in the same world, much less in the same part of the world upon which our youthful eyes then looked. For my own part I stand amazed, finding no better words to express my astonishment than those contained in that first memorable message ever sent over the newly completed line of tele graph — the first ever built in this country — from Washington to Baltimore: "What hath God wrought!" To Him belongs all the praise. 246 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND CLOSING WORDS. It was the misfortune of my family to have a considerable amount of sickness while we were on our farm, but in most cases, mother's skillful and tender nursing, together with the ad ministration of a few simple remedies which she knew how to dispense, proved sufficient to carry us through. But the time came finally when her skillful treatment could only alleviate but not cure. In 1845 my father had a severe attack of inflam matory rheumatism from which he suffered un told agony for many weeks. He, however, finally recovered so far as to be able to get about with tolerable comfort, though he was never again a well man. In the summer of 1846 my brother Frank Cook was seized with inflammation of the bowels and suddenly passed away from us, while I was lying unconscious with congestive chills. The following October, on the 14th day, my father, too, was borne to his last resting place, bilious fever being the disease that ended his life. The year after, that is, in 1847, we rented our farm and came into town, living in a log house located on the bank of the river below Fourth avenue. It was as already stated the second house erected in the town and was built by Mr. John Young upon whose claim it stood. In 1848, having had a great deal of sickness CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 247 still in the family, mother yielded to the advice of a half brother living in Wisconsin, and decided to go there with her family and see if the change would not be beneficial, and so in the fall of that year she went to Hazel Green. The change, how ever, did not prove as beneficial as it was hoped, and so after about eleven months she returned to Cedar Rapids. In 1850 we purchased a lot on Third avenue, near the Empire House and erected a house which was our home up to 1854. On June 20th of that year, mother departed this life, after a short illness, her children kneel ing at her bedside and receiving her parting bless ing. In 1852 my sister Julia was married to Mr. David Blakely, principal of the Cedar Rapids Collegiate Institute. On the 9th of April, 1857, she also, finished her life work and entered her rest. The other members of the family have been mentioned elsewhere in this record. As for myself, leaving out, of course, all the bad things that might be said, the remaining part of my personal history can be written in a few lines. At the close of the three years of school life under the supervision of Rev. Williston Jones and Mr. David Blakely, in Cedar Rapids, I left home for the first time in the fall of 1854; spending one year in Alexander College, Dubuque, Iowa, three years in the University of Michigan at Ann 248 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND Arbor, and two years in Union Theological Sem inary, New York City. Being threatened with a serious throat and lung trouble which seemed to have been greatly aggravated by my residence in the city and so near the ocean, my physicians advised my return at once to Iowa, which, to my great regret, in volved the necessity of cutting short my theolog ical course one term. Returning to my own beloved state in the spring of 1860, and breathing its health-giving air, strength and vigor were soon regained to such a degree as to warrant the resumption of the office of preaching, which, as a layman, I had begun to exercise as early as the summer of 1855. During the summer of 1860 I was duly licensed to preach by the Presbytery of Iowa Valley, and in the following December was regularly ordain ed as an evangelist, at Steamboat Rock, in Har din county. For nine months acting as an evangelist and itinerating missionary in Hardin and Franklin counties, I was finally called to the First Presby terian church of Wyoming, Jones county, Iowa, where I remained seven years including nine months of service in 1864, as chaplain of the 24th Regiment Iowa Volunteer Infantry. In 1868, having never recovered from the seri ous illness contracted during the exposures and hardships of army life, I was compelled to resign my charge and take a few months rest. Being advised by my physician that a more CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 249 active life would be better adapted to my consti tution, I entered the service of the Presbyterian Board of Home Missions and for six years acted as District Secretary with headquarters the first half of the time at Council Bluffs, and the last three years at Cedar Rapids, my duties requiring- many thousands of miles of travel each year in Iowa, Nebraska and Dakota. After this I served the Presbyterian church of Sac City, Sac county, as pastor for three and a half years, and the Presbyterian church of Logan, Harrison county, four years, when I was called back to Wyoming, my old charge, after an absence of seventeen years. After remaining there six and a half years I was stricken down with a severe illness which came very near terminating my life, and from which I have never been able to recover. In consequence of this I was compelled to resign my charge in the fall of 1891. A sea voyage and a five months' sojourn in Ger many in 1892, although beneficial, failed to re store me sufficiently to warrant my taking another charge; and so at last I find myself at my old home in Cedar Rapids where I expect to remain until Providence orders me elsewhere. If not due to myself, it is at least due to the reader, that this brief concluding record be made. But one other word remains to be said. In the preparation of this manuscript for the press, there has been one silent but very efficient participator in the work, to whom no reference has yet been made. 250 PIONEER LIFE IN AND AROUND She does not claim to be an old settler, nor does she seem willing to be called old in any sense, (who ever heard of a woman that was willing to be so designated), but if not an old pioneer her self, she is the wife of one; and although she naturally shrinks from public gaze, and desires that her name should not be mentioned in these pages, yet when the facts come out, as they must and will, sooner or later, that, with her left hand, (her right arm having been fractured), she. copied on the type-writer, nearly all of the manuscript, besides looking over every page of the proof sheets, I am sure I would deserve and receive the censure of all who read these pages, if I failed to make honorable mention of her in this place. It is more than probable that these pages never would have been written at all had it not been for her sleepless vigilance and her most tender and skillful nursing through several very severe turns of sickness that I have endured in the past few years. She is the daughter of Elihu and Charlotte B. Baker, both deceased. Mr. Baker was for several years in the mer cantile and banking business in this place, and later,- National Bank Inspector for the State of Iowa. Mr. and Mrs. Baker were members of the First Presbyterian church. Their children, now living, are: Mrs. N. C. Milligan, wife of Mr. J. G. Milligan, of Chicago; Rev. Lewis C. Baker, D. D., of Philadelphia; • CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 251 William M. Baker, real estate dealer of Chicago, and an elder in the Second Presbyterian church; the Rev. Alfred B. Baker, D. D., Rector of Trin ity Protestant Episcopal church, Princeton, New Jersey; Mrs. Margaret O. Wood, wife of Mr. Henry Wood, of Boston; Lt. Asher C. Baker of the United States Navy; and Mrs. Joanna B. Carroll. Mary Scott Baker, the youngest of the family, died in Chicago, in the summer of 1856. And now the task that I had laid out for my self is done. As to how well it is done, I must leave others to judg7e. f f mmtm :;- ;- ;; If TX P ;¦ ; ;: 1 X :. - h s 1 1 E r t be C t Ik '• ' ".. - :.'.;¦ c ; : -: &i % £ n F £ £»» £ i ¦ ~: - X;C £ %mi 1 1