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LIBRARY Gift of
Colorado Yale Associations

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WILLARD GUZIER.

HEADWATERS

MISSISSIPPI;
Biographical Sketches of Early and Recent Explorers of the Great
River, and a Full Account of the Discovery and Location
op its True Source in a Lake beyond Itasca.

CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER,
AutboFof'^Three Tears In the Federal Cavalry," ^'Capture, Frlson-Pen, anil Escape,*' '^Bat
tles for the Union," "HeroeB of Three Wars," '^PecnllaHllea of American Citiea,"
•'Ocean to Ocean oa Uorsebacb," '*Down the tireat Biver,** Et«.

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^lin&tvateii*

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Chicago and Ne-w York :
RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY.
1894.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892, by
WILLARD GLAZIER,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at "Washington, D. C.

Cn^ M3ti.

TO
ALICE,
WHO SHARED THB PATIGDES AND PRIVATIONS OP MT
SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE HEADWATERS OF
THE MISSISSIPPI; STOOD WITH ME AT THE
SOURCE; AND DRANK FKOM ITS
REMOTEST SPRINGS,
IS LOVINGLY INSCEIBED
BY
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

/,fA%,

^ROM the authenticated discoyery of
the Mississippi by Hernando de Soto
in 1541^ to the location of its True
Source in 1881, comparatively little
is known of the early pioneers or
of the series of explorations which
finally led to a solution of the mys
tery that surrounded its Headwaters
for a period of over three hundred years. The Great
Eiver and its tributaries have been revealed to the
world through a multitude of daring enterprises, the
motives and incidents of which are familiar to but
few of the present generation. Both the early and
more modern explorers wrote much, but published
little, and for the latter reason, the records of their
travels have seldom found their way to the eye of the
general reader.
It is the purpose of this volume to present as far
as possible, from all available sources, some idea of
the circumstances which led to certain important
discoveries in North America, together with such
sketches of the old and recent explorers of the Mis
sissippi as the plan of the work will permit. Pew
or no attempts were made up to 1805 to penetrate the
secret of the origin of the river, in which year Lieu
tenant Pike, commissioned by the Goyernment, sig-
(7)

8 PREFACE.
nally failed of his object. The efforts of General
Cass in 1820, and of Beltrami three years later,
though well directed and zealously executed, also fell
short of the attainment of the desired end — the Foun
tain-head of the Mississippi was unseen and unknown
to them. Schoolcraft, in 1833, approached more
nearly the solution of the problem than any of his
predecessors, and, in the discovery of Lake Itasca,
believed he had reached the extreme head of the
river. He published his discovery to the world, and
it was generally accepted on his authority. Por
fifty years Lake Itasca was laid down in the maps as
the Source of the Father of Waters, still not a few
expressed their doubts of the genuineness of the dis
covery, and the Indians of Iforthern Minnesota
denied it altogether. Nicollet, a Prench savant, who
followed in the footsteps of Schoolcraft in 1836,
strangely confirmed the latter in what has since been
proved to be a geographical error.
Rumors having reached the author of the present
volume, from various sources, of the doubtful cor
rectness of Schoolcraft in assuming Itasca to be the
Primal Reservoir of the river, he determined to inves
tigate the matter in the interest of geography, and,
having time at his disposal in the summer of 1881,
organized an expedition to proceed to the Headwaters.
The result was the discovery of a body of water lying
immediately to the south of Lake Itasca, and emp
tying into the latter through a perennial stream, the
mouth of which was entirely concealed from view by
a dense growth of lake vegetation and fallen trees.
This lake, having an area of 255 acres, a circumfer
ence of between five and six miles, and an average
depth of f orty-fiye feet, being alove Itasca, necessarily

PEEPACE. g
invalidated the claim of Schoolcraft, and the author's
location of the True Head of the Mississippi is now
recognized by nearly all of the geographers and edu
cational publishers of this country and Europe.
Between 1541 and 1881, every part of the Great
River had been visited by intrepid explorers, with the
exception of its almost inaccessible Source — of the
final discovery of which full particulars will be found
in Part Third of this volume.
During the ten years that elapsed between 1881 and
1891, spasmodic efforts, partaking for the most part
of a disingenuous and personal character, were made
by a few cavilers to discredit the author's discovery,
and it was thought by his friends and, those who
believed in his claim that a further investigation at
the Head of the river might have the effect of throw
ing more light upon the question, and possibly of
convincing the opposition. Accordingly, a Second
Expedition was projected, and undertaken in August,
1891, composed of geographers, scientists, practical
surveyors, and men of culture; a detailed account of
which appears in the following chapters, for which
the author respectfully bespeaks the reader's fair and
candid consideration.
An itinerary of the journey to the Headwaters of
the Great River will be found in the early chapters of
Part Third, in which occasional but brief reference
is made to men and places, which may be of some
practical utility to the tourist contemplating a pil
grimage through Northern Minnesota to the Source
of the Mighty River.
The writer makes no pretension to have exhausted
the topics he has treated, or to placing his work in
comparison with more elaborate productions; but

10

PEEFACE.

presents it to the reader simply as an epitome of the
history of our magnificent river — a river in many
respects without a peer.
* * * The illustrations accompanying this volume
are from drawings by True Williams, of Chicago, and
the camera of Pred J. Trost, of the firm of Van Loo
& Trost, Toledo, Ohio — the latter a member of the
Expedition of 1891, and the first to photograph
scenery at the Headwaters of the Mississippi.

Chicago, January 14, 1893

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER I.
ALVAE NirS-EZ CABEgA DE VACA.
De Vaca— Pineda — De Narvaez Expedition— Florida — Ponce
de Leon — Tampa Bay — Illusions — Weary of the Sea — No
Signs of Gold — Disappointment — Much Harassed — Hunger
and Fatigue- A Council — Boats Built — Sail West— More
¦ Misfortune — Narvaez Lost at Sea — De Vaca Shipwrecked
— Four Survivors — De Vaca Saved — Six Years with the
Indians— Western Wilderness— Bison— The Rockies— De
Vaca and the Mississippi — His Adventures — Returns to
Spain — Interview with the King — Rio de la Plata —
Exiled to Africa — Recalled — Death of De Vaca — His Life
a Romance.
CHAPTER II.
HEEKANDO DE SOTO.
Discoverer of the Mississippi — Birthplace — Family Misfor
tunes — Out-of-door Sports — Don Pedro — De Soto and Isa
bella — Betrothed — Don Pedro's Vexation — His Treatment
of De Soto — They Sail for South America — Pedro Plans De
Soto's Death — De Soto Joins Pizarro — Battle with Uracca —
De Soto's Bravery — Codro — De Soto and Isabella — Letters
Intercepted — A Messenger — His Fate — De Soto's Revenge
— Don Pedro's Successor — Cordova — De Soto Attacks
Pedro— Pedro Orders Him to be Slain — Pizarro's Raid
Upon Peru — Requests the Aidof De Soto — De Soto Rejoins
Pizarro — Apology for De Soto.
CU)

lij CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
DB SOTO "VyiTH PIZAERO.
A Dark Page— A Lover of Adventure— Soldierly Qualities-
Overtures to De Soto— He Starts South— Deceived— Pizar
ro's Abject Nature — Outrages on the Peruvian King—
Pizarro's Plunder— Natives Abandon the City— Cruelties
of Pizarro— De Soto Crosses the Andes — A Peaceful
Embassy — Novel Spectacle — Magniflcent Highway —
Strength of the Nation — Peruvian Camp — The Inca's
Bnvoy-^Gif ts and Friendly Greetings — Pizarro Meets the
Inca — Consternation of the Inca— Made Prisoner — Dc Soto's
Conduct — The Inca Burned at the Stake — De Soto's Anger
— Peruvians Burn Their Capital— Peru Conquered — De
Soto Proposes to Return to Spain.
CHAPTER IV.
DISCOVEEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
Don Pedro Dies — Isabella Disinherited — Cabe9a de Vaca —
Expedition to North America — Governor of Cuba — Many
Join De Soto — Sail for Cuba — Isabella Regent of Cuba —
Fleet Reaches Florida — Reconnoitering — Juan Ortiz — •
Reputed Gold Fields— The "Lady of the Couutree"— A
Hostage — Disappointments — Discontent — De Soto Hopeful
— The Mississippi Reached— Rio Grande — Crossed on Rafts
— No Gold Found— De Soto Despondent — Health Under
mined—His Death — Buried in the River — Band Disorgan
ized.
CHAPTER V.
MAEQUETTE AND JOLIET.
Father Marquette— His Birth— Sails for Canada. . Arrives at
Quebec— Studies Indian Languages— Ordered to Lake
Superior— Ste. Marie du Sault— Michilimackinac— Policy
of the French— Louis Joliet— Meets La Salle— The Un
known River— Lake Michigan— Allouez aud Dablon—
The Mississippi — Hostile Natives — Indian Village —
The Manitous— Missouri River— Ohio River— Mosquitoes-
Descending the Mississippi— Progress Arrested— Resolve to

CONTENTS. 13
Return — Ascend the Illinois— Joliet Leaves Marquette—
Goes to Quebec— Loses All His Papers — Makes His Report
from Memory— Anticosti— Royal Pilot— Dies— Buried in
Labrador — Marquette Dies in Michigan — A Herald of
Western Civilization.
CHAPTER VI.
EOBEET CAVELIEE DE LA SALLE.
Birth — Sails for Canada — Great Schemes — Father Dollier —
Expedition Starts — Joliet and Per(5 — Discovery of the
Ohio — Returns to France — King Louis — Returns to Can
ada — Port Frontenac — Again Visits France — Minister Col
bert — Returns to Canada — De Tonty — Plans — Misfortune
— Jealous Enemies — The "Griffin" — Fresh Troubles —
Iroquois — Exploration on Mississippi — Crdve-Coeur — Plans
Defeated — Pather Hennepin.
CHAPTER VII.
LA SALLE EXPLOEES THE LQ-^VEE MISSISSIPPI.
La Salle Returns to Canada — More Disaster — Starts Out
Again- -Fresh Supplies — Reverses — Indian Vengeance —
The Great River— Meets Tonty— Attack by Iroquois—
Chicago River — Tamaroas — Prudhomme Lost — Nearing
the Gulf— The Natchez Tribe— Father Membrfi- The Open
Sea— La Salle Takes Formal Possession— Louisiana— Fight
with Indians— La Salle Falls 111— Recovers— Prepares to
Return to Quebec— His Plans — Disappointment— Returns
to France. CHAPTER VIII.
LAST VOYAGE AND DEATH OF LA SALLE.
King Louis Listens to La Salle— Twenty Vessels Sail for
Canada— Misunderstanding— Reach the Gulf— Misfortune
Presaged— General Discontent— A Faithless Captain— Fort
Saint Louis— La Salle Undaunted— Christmas Approached
—La Salle's Nephew— His Death Determined On— Also
That of La Salle— Assassination of La Salle— Body Left to

14 CONTENTS •
the Beasts of Prey— All in Confusion— Villainy Avenged—
Duhaut Killed— La Salle's Venture Entirely Defeated—
The Greatest of Explorers.
CHAPTER IX.
FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN.
Goes to Canada as a Missionary — Fellow-Passenger with
La Salle— Ordered to Fort Frontenac— Joins La Salle— A
Doubtful Narrative of Adventures— Proceeds Up the Mis
sissippi — Discovers Saint Anthony Falls— Attacked by
Sioux — Captured — Life Threatened — Diplomacy — His
Prayers— Held a Captive— Learns the Sioux Language-
Descends the River — Returns to the Sioux Village— Leaves
for Canada— Sails for France— Publishes His Journal-
Much Criticised by Cotemporaries.
CHAPTER X.
LA HONTAN — CHAELBVOIX — OAEVEE.
La Hontan Visits the Mississippi — The "Long River" — Much
Criticised — Nicollet Defends Him — Cannon River —
Descends the Mississippi — Discoveries — Charlevoix Com
missioned by French Government — New France — Quebec
— Proceeds Westward — The Mississippi — Beautiful Scen
ery — New Orleans — Returns to Europe — "History of New
France" — Captain Jonathan Carver — Leaves Boston — A
Northwest Passage — Reaches the Mississippi — Ascends the
River — Surprised by Indians — Lake Pepin — Ancient Re
mains — Saint Anthony Falls — Carver River — Sioux Vil
lage—Becomes a Chief— Great Storm — Indians Terrified—
Carver's Courage — Carver's Cave — Indian Council— Gift of
Land — Saint Croix River — Lake Superior — Journeys East
ward — Sails for England — Reports to Government — Re
verses Overtake Him — Dies, Aged 48.

CONTENTS. 15

^avt §^i^c0nli>^

CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE.
Enters the Army— Ordered on Exploration — Headwaters of
the Mississippi — Twenty Men under His Command— Leaves
Saint Louis — Ascends the River — Disadvantages — Winter
Overtakes Him — Much SuflEering — Travels on Snow-shoes
— Sandy Lake— Leech Lake — Cass Lake — Mantle of Snow^
Meets Fur Traders — Hospitably Received — Explains His
Object — Turtle Lake — Returns to Saint Louis — His Narra
tive—Second Expedition— Rocky Mountains — Pike's Peak
— Rio Grande— Taken Prisoner by Spaniards — Ordered to
Leave Their Ten itory — Reports to His Government — Pro
moted — Expedition Agai..st York, Canada — Magazine Ex
plodes — Fatally Injured and Dies — A Zealous Officer.
OHAPTER II.
THE CASS EXPEDITION.
War of 1813 — Cass Joins the Forces as Colonel — General Hull
— Crosses the Detroit River — Hull Surrenders to the
Enemy — Cass Goes to Washington on Parole — Promoted —
Appointed Governor of Michigan Territory — Treats with
the Indians — Suggests an Expedition to the Northwest —
Schoolcraft — Headwaters of Mississippi — Upper Cedar
Lake — Secretary of War — Black Hawk War — Minister to
France — U. S. Senator — Candidate for President — Secre
tary of State— A Scholar of Fine Attainments — Wrote
Several Works — Dies at Detroit, Aged 84.
OHAPTER III.
BELTEAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE."
Native of Venice — Educated for the Law — Appointed Judge
— Extraordinary Energy and Capacity — The Carbonari—

16 CONTENTS.
Ordered into Exile— Travels through Europe— Visits the
United States— Turns to Exploration— Valley of the Missis
sippi— Talioferra-Embarks for Fort Snelling— Will Seek
the Source of the Mississippi— Major Long's Expedition—
Beltrami Offers to Accompany Him— Attempts Made to
Dissuade Him — Determines to Go — Restless and Adventur
ous — The Expedition Leaves Fort Snelling — The Saint
Peter — A Curious Contrast — Lake Traverse — Red River —
Pembina — Dissatisfied — Leaves Pembina — Two Chippewas
and an Interpreter — Kills Two While Bears — Interpreter
Leaves Beltrami— Also the Two Indians — Great Portage
River — Source of Red River of the North — Highest Land
of North America — Sources of the Mississippi — Lake
Julia — Beltrami in Error — La Biche Lake— Visits New
Orleans — Mexico — Philadelphia — Returns to Europe— Dies
in Italy, Aged 75.
CHAPTER IV.
SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA.
Native of New York — Middlebury College — Visits the Missis
sippi Valley — Geological Investigations — Mines and Min
erals of Missouri — Goes to Washington— President Mon
roe — Calhoun Offers Schoolcraft a Position as Geologist to
Cass Expedition — Embarks at Detroit — The Mississippi —
"Cassina" — Again Commissioned — Upper Mississippi-
Sioux and Cliippewas— Sandy Lake Council — Visits Cass
Lake— In Search of the Source of the Great River—
Ozawindib— Schoolcraft Island — William Morrison — Lake
Itasca — Crow Wing River — Indian Council— Appointed
Indian Agent— The Six Nations— Married to an Indian-
Second Marriage —Author of Several Works— Visits Europe
—Dies in Washington, Aged 71.
OHAPTER V. ,;'¦
INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET.
Native of Savoy, France— Enters College— Professor of Mathe
matics— Legion of Honor— Ruined Financially— Comes to
America— Explores the Mississippi— Baltimore— Sum-

CONTENTS. 17
moned to Washington— To Explore Headwaters of Missis
sippi — Prehistoric Relics — Pipe-Stone Quarry— Cannon
River — His Indian Guide — Red River — Crow Wing —
Leech Lake— Flat-Mouth— Lake Itasca— Nicollet Creek—
" Lake Bemidji — Cass Lake — Returns to Leech Lake-
Entertained by Flat-Mouth— 111 Health— Dies at Washing
ton.
OHAPTER VI.
EXPLOITS OF CHAELES LANMAN.
Leaves Saint Louis in 1846 — An Excursion — History and Tra
dition — Lake Pepin — Legends and Romance^" Winona"
— Red Wing — Saint Peter River — Sioux and Dakotas—
A Dog-feast — Saint Anthony Falls — Crow Wing River —
A Wolf Killed — Chased by Wolves — Crow Wing Village
— WiUiam Morrison — The White Panther — Chief Hole-in-
the-day — Indian Traders — Lake Winnebegoshish — Bear
Hunt — Cass Lake — The Chippewa Nation — Lake Itasca.

^avi ^\jxxt>^

CHAPTER I.
EECENT ESPLOEATIONS.
Lake Itasca— Schoolcraft— Nicollet^— Lake Beyond Itasca—
Primal Reservoir — Misrepresentations — Further Investiga
tion — Partisan Opposition — Antagonism to Geographical
Truth — Error of Schoolcraft. CHAPTER II.
JOUENEY TO MINNESOTA.
A Second Expedition— Leave Milwaukee— Through Wiscon
sin—The Dalles— The Mississippi— King of American
Rivers— La Crosse— Origin of Name— Nathan Myrick—
2

18 CONTENTS.
Growth of La Crosse— Immense Advantages— Population
— Minnesota — Wir.ona — The BepuUican — D. Sinclair —
Growth of Winona— A Beautiful City— Commercial Im
portance — Enterprise. OHAPTER III.
WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS.
Route — A Contrast — Different Modes of Traveling — Canoe
ing — Wabasha — Pepin — Lake of Tears — Le Sueur — Carver
— Lake City — Picturesque Scenery — Maiden Rock — Red
Wing — Swiss Missionaries — Population — Hastings — Saint
Croix River — Saint Paul.
CHAPTER IV.
EAELY HISTOEY OF MINNESOTA.
Fifty Years Ago — A Wilderness — Indians — Pioneer Times-
Father Menard — Carver's Treaties — Elected Chief — Pike,
Cass, Beltrami — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Fremont — Long —
Keating — Explorers of Minnesota — Hennepin — Renville —
Proven9alle — Morrison — Faribault — Morrison and Lake
Itasca — Minnesota Territory — Governor Ramsey — General
Sibley — Great Natural Resources.
OHAPTER V.
THE '^T-WIN CITIES."
Saint Paul and Minneapolis — Phenomenal Growth — ^First
Building in Saint Paul — The Jesuits — A Log Chapel-
Dedicated to the Apostle Paul — The Capital — Population
1849, 1854, 1856, 1880, 1890— Location— Five Bridges-
Head of Navigation— Well-built City— Large Trade-
Stale Capitol — Institutions of Learning — Religion and
Education— The Press— Resorts — Carver's Cave— White
Bear Lake — Smaller Lakes — ^Minneapolis — Saint Anthony
— Coloael J. H. Stevens — Suspension Bridge — Saint
Anthony Falls— A Tragic Story— Lumber Busin- ss— Great
Flour Mills— Beautiful Residences— University— Athen-

CONTENTS. 19
aeum— The Press— Resorts— Healthful Climate— Minne
haha — Lake Minnetonka.
OHAPTER VI.
PEEPAEATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION.
^lembers of Expedition — Route to the Headwaters— Press
Comments — Saint Paul Biapateh — Qlohe— Northwestern
Presbyterian — Red Wing Argits — Albany Knickerbocker —
Dubuque Trade Journal — Boston SeralcL — Philadelphia
Times — Geographical News.
CHAPTER VII.
MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS.
Leave Minneapolis — Saint Cloud — Brainerd — New Englanders
— Pine Park — Sanitarium — Y. M. C. A. — Miss Grandel-
meyer— Lake Itasca — Turtle Lake — Dr. Seal — Chenowage-
sic — Judge Holland — Dr. Rosser — Captain Seelye — George
8. Canfield — Wadena— Park Rapids — Henry R. Cobb — E.
M. Horton — Shell Prairies.
CHAPTER VIII.
THROUGH THE -WILDEENESS.
C. D. Cutting and Son — Surveyors Horton and Keay — Adams
and Son — Delezene — ^Equipment — "Jerry" — Start from
Park Rapids — Virgin Forest — Dinner Creek — Fording —
"Morrison River" — Camp Munsell — Mule Lake — Shooting
a Bear — A Correspondent — Height of Land — Lake Gamble
— Bear Creek — View of Lake Itasca — ^Embark for School
craft Island.
OHAPTER IX.
HEADWATEES OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
Camp Shure — Nicollet Creek — Bogs and Ponds — Dead Lakes
— Hauteur de Terre — Infant Mississippi — Pokegama —
Primal Reservoir — Schoolcraft — His Narrative Quoted —
Poem — One Hour on the Island — Passed out of the Lake —
Nicollet— Coasted Itasca— Nicollet Creek— Floating Bog
—Government Survey — Hopewell Clarke — ^Edwin S. Hall.

20 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
JOUENAL OF THE EXPEDITION.
Field Notes— Permanent Headquarters— Camp Trost— Trolling
—Nicollet Creek— Exaggeration— Lake Glazier— Appear
ance of the Lake — Coasting Itasca — Affluents — Eagle's Nest
—Excelsior Creek— Harriet Promontory— Deer Tracks— A
Cascade— Variety of Trees— " Hernando de Soto" Lake-
Character Overdrawn- A Dead Lake— A Pleasing Inci
dent—Moses Lagard— Horton Creek— Lake Alice— Meas
urements — Stars and Stripes— Investigations Ended— A
Few Remarks— Record of the Expedition— Surveyors'
Report— Botany of the Region— Salute the Flag— Sunday
Divine Service — First Sermon at the Source.
CHAPTER XI.
EETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS.
Tablets Erected — Tents Struck— Preparations for Departure-
Return Journey — Camp Horton — Red Squirrels — Crane
Lake — Morrison River — Fording the Stream — Shell Prai
ries — Park Rapids — Central House — Dr. Winship — A Heavy
Storm — Discomfort — Senior Member of the Expedition —
Lagard Leaves the Party — Messrs. Horton and Keay —
Leave for Wadena — Merchants' Hotel — J. E. Reynolds —
Little Falls— "The Antlers" — Mayor Richardson — Com
rade Sutton — Arrive in Minneapolis — A Joint Report —
Members of the Expedition Return to Their Homes.
OHAPTER XII.
INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION.
True Source Unanimously Indorsed — Gratuitous Assertions of
Opponents — Corroborative Testimony — Surveyor Horton :
Measured All Affluents of Lakes Itasca and Glazier — Excel
sior Creek — -Lake Glazier — The Source of the River.
Assistant Surveyor Keay: Perfectly Familiar with the
Region — Lake Glazier the Primal Reservoir. Dr. A. Mun
sell: Agrees with All the Members of Expedition — Lake
Glazier is the True Source. J. C. Crane: Personal In ves-

CONTENTS. 21
tigation — Traced and Measured all Feeders — Lake Glazier
is the True Source. D. S. Knowlton: Lake South of Itasca
is the Veritable Source — Geographers Justified in Recog
nizing It. Charles E. Harrison: Captain Glazier's Claim
FuUy Justified. Henry R. Cobb: Lake Glazier the Largest
Body of Water having Connection with Mississippi through
Itasca. Fred. J. Trost: Perfectly Certain Lake Glazier is
the True Source. Albert W. Whitney: Lake Glazier
Fulfills All Conditions Necessary for the Real Source.
W. S. Shure: Explored All the Region — Lake Glazier is
the Source. Conclusion — Claim of the Author — Adverse
Statements Can Not be Substantiated — The Author's Posi
tion Same as Schoolcraft's — Conclusions of Second Expedi
tion Incontrovertible. *

^ppenHx*

First Glazier Expedition — His Claim — Material for Considera
tion — Ten Years of Controversy — Reasons for the Expedi
tion — Source Still in Doubt— Companions — Reach Brainerd
— Conveyance to Leech Lake — Indian Agency — Major
RufEee — Chenowagesic — Kabekanka River — Lake Garfield
— A Portage — Lakes Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton, Custer,
and Kilpatrick — Portages— Lakes Gregg, Davies, and Sher
idan — Lakes George and Paine — River Naiwa — Lake
Elvira — De Soto River — Lake Itasca and Schoolcraft Island
—Omushkos— Coasting Itasca— Six SmaU Feeders— Dis
covery of the Source— Its Affluents— Error of Schoolcraft
—Pokegama— Lake Glazier— Elk Lake— Infant Mississippi
—Results of First Expedition— Schoolcraft and Nicollet-
Nicollet Creek — Critics and CavUers — Correspondence
Relating to First Expedition— Voice of the Press— Cor
respondence Previous to Seconil Expedition — After the
Return — Editorial Comment— Indorsements of the Glazier
Claim.

ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAOE.
Portrait of the Author, - Frontispieee.
Early Explorers of the Mississippi, - 84
De Vaca Crossing the Continent, 33
Shipwreck of De Vaca, 36
Hernando De Soto, 40
The Inca Receiving De Soto, 55
Burial of De Soto at Midnight, 71
Juan Ortiz, the Indian Captive, 73
Marquette and JoUet Descending the Mississippi, 85
Early Map of the lUinois, 106
La SaUe Taking Possession of the VaUey of the Mississippi, 131
Erecting Cross at an Indian ViUage, 135
Assassination of La Salle, 144
Building of Fort Saint Louis, 147
Hennepin at the Falls of Saint Anthon)', 154
Father Hennepin at His Devotions, 160
Carver and the Thunder-storm, 168
Explorers of the Upper Mississippi, 173
Winter Quarters on the Upper Mississippi, 174
Pike Exploring on Snow-shoes, 177
Cass Expedition Leaving Detroit, 183
Beltrami Surprised by Indians, 193
Southern End of Lake Itasca, 303
Schoolcraft Island, 307
Nicollet at Lake Itasca, 315
A Glimpse of the Red River, 317
Lanman Pursued by Wolves, 323
Bear Hunting, 239
Map of the Upper Mississippi, 232
Shooting Rapids, 236
DaUes of the Wisconsin, 240
View of Maiden Rock — Lake Pepin, - 253
Saint Paul in 1841, - 364
View of Saint Paul id 1891, 267
White Bear Lake, 377
Falls of Minnehaha, - 337
(28)

ILLUSTRATIONS. 23
PAGE
Lake Minnetonka, 294
View of Minneapolis in 1891, 296
Members of Second Glazier Expedition, 303
In Pine Park, Brainerd, ¦ 314
Log-boom on the Upper Mississippi, 316
The Mississippi at Brainerd, 318
Burial of Chenowagesic, 321
Main Street, Wadena, 333
Waiting for the Train, Wadena, 325
View of Park Rapids, 337
Starting from Park Rapids, 330
Bruin at Bay, 335
Map of the Headwaters, 340
Mouth of the Infant Mississippi, . 343
Maps of Schoolcraft and Nicollet, 349
Nightfall at Our Encampment, 353
Lake Glazier, 355
Eagle's Nest, 357
Mouth of Excelsior Creek, 359
Caught in Lake Glazier, 361
On an Indian Trail at the Headwaters, 363
Strange Meeting in the Wilderness, 365
Outlet of Lake Glazier, 367
Lake AUce, 369
Glen Alice, 371
First Sermon at the Source of the Mississippi, 373
A Talk on the Promontory, 375
Lake Crane, 380
Expedition Fording a Stream. 384
An Abandoned Claim, 386
A Frontier Bank, 388
The Menahga House, 391
Merchants' Hotel and Park, Wadena, - 393
First Glazier Expedition at the Source of the Mississippi, 404
APPENDIX.
Map of Lake Glazier and its Feeders, 408
Lake Garfield, ¦ 433
Lake Sheridan, 456
Bird's-eye View of Lake Glazier, 507

--^t-.t^^^^%#^^I^^T^?>^ '

EARLY EXPLORERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
(24)

CHAPTER I.
ALVAR NU:nEZ CABEgA DE TACA.

1

THE position which this early explorer
holds among his contemporaries is very
important, so far as the narrative of
his travels in the New World is con
cerned, but historians differ widely in
their estimation of what is due him as
a discoverer, and will probably never be able to settle
satisfactorily the question as to whether or not he was
the first European to see the Mississippi.
In the confusing mazes of opinion, which are really
all that are to be consulted in regard to the earliest
discoveries of the Great River, there have been some
suggestions of an expedition as early as 151 9, under
Don Alonzo Alvarez Pineda, an officer in the service
of the Governor of Jamaica; justifled by the Spanish
historian Navarrete, who writes that Pineda discov
ered the Mississippi at that time, and named it " Rio
del Espirito Santo," being influenced to undertake
this exploration by the universal enthusiasm excited
by the conquest of Mexico by Cortez.
The aim and object of those who, like De Vaca,
penetrated the wildernesses of North America was
ostensibly to search out the reputed mines of gold and
silver, rather than to explore the unknown regions
for the enlightenment of their countrymen and the
C25)

26 EARLY EXPLORERS.
advancement of science; so that the recitals of their
journeyings were more the detailed accounts of the
obstacles which confronted them, and the hardships
which they passed through in pursuit of the coveted
treasure, than careful reports of geographical re
search. It is this vagueness of description in De Vaca's nar
rative which has caused so much speculation among
those interested in the history of our Great Central
River, and which has baf&ed those who wish to do jus
tice to its discoverer. If he crossed the Rio Grande
of the later Spaniards, he has given no evidence that
would distinguish it from the other rivers of the
South, and which would place him unquestionably
among the great explorers. On the other hand, those
who follow De Soto in his march through the wilder
ness can not doubt that he and his companions saw
the Mississippi, or that the disappointed cavalier met
death upon its shores. It is therefore to him that
historians generally give the contested honor. The
purpose of these pages is not, however, to advance
any personal theories, or to assume the championship
of those who have long since passed away, and whose
claims could only be considered through uncertain and
intricate hypotheses, but only to give a brief account
of their lives, as bearing more or less directly upon
the history of the Great River.
De Vaca first comes into prominence as the lieuten
ant of Panfllo de Narvaez in the expedition organized
for the conquest and colonization of "the whole
northern coast of the Gulf"; an enterprise suggested
strangely enough by the personal pique of the com
mander, who, having failed in hia raid upon Cortez,
in Mexico, as the lieutenant of the jealous Velasquez,

CABEgA DE TACA. 27
wished to redeem his somewhat tarnished record by
glorious action in a new field. Appealing to the Em
peror Charles V., he obtained a commission to invade
the country and to assume the title of Adelantado of
those lands which he should discover within the lim
its of what was then known as Florida — ^a large area
embracing the present division and extending for an
almost indefinite distance toward the northwest.
Thus encouraged by the crown, he sailed from San
Lucar on the seventeenth of June, 1527, with a com
pany of six hundred, and a fleet of flve vessels. At
Hispaniola, where a six-weeks' halt was made to fur
ther prepare for the journey, more than a hundred
of the volunteers abandoned the expedition; while at
Trinidad, whither two vessels had been sent, in charge
of De Vaca and Captain Pantoja, to obtain provisions,
both crews perished in a violent storm, those only
escaping who had gone ashore. Without having
sighted the coast of Florida, Narvaez had thus lost
a sixth of his men.
Soon overtaking the shipwrecked party, he estab
lished winter quarters at Xagua, twelves leagues be
yond, where in February he joined the expedition
with reinforcements, and arranged for the final voyage.
The Land of Flowers, through which Ponce de
Leon had traveled in search of fabled treasures and
the magical Fountain of Youth, was still hidden
beyond the blue waters of the Gulf, and the shadow
of coming misfortunes, which superstition hinted at,
found no place among the eager adventurers.
On the eleventh of April Florida was reached, and
a landing made just north of Tampa Bay, where the
colors of Spain were unfurled and the soil solemnly
appropriated in the name of Charles V. It had been

28 EARLY EXPLORERS.
the intention to enter the larger bay to the south, but
through a miscalculation of the pilot, Miruelo, the
ships had passed it, and the destiny of the expedition
became thus entirely changed.
Narvaez and his officers now anticipated a tri
umphal march through a country which they had
peopled with a race far superior to the Mexicans or
Peruvians; whose towns were to be rich in the wealth
of precious metals, and whose inhabitants, milder
than the South Americans, would offer them no
resistance; a country whose limits they believed
inclosed an empire greater than Montezuma's, and
within whose confines were to be found splendors yet
undreamed of.
Their illusions were soon dispelled. Advancing
upon an Indian village, whose cabins could be seen at
the head of the little bay in which the ships were
anchored, they were fearlessly met by the natives,
whose temerity somewhat surprised them. After a
friendly reception they were requested by unmistak
able signs to leave, and the firmness of the Indians so
impressed Narvaez — who, although a man of unques
tioned courage, was lacking in decision — that he called
a consultation of his principal officers to determine
upon the wisest course. They concluded to follow the
coast by land in search of the bay which they had at
tempted to reach — the Espirito Santo of De Soto's later
expedition — the ships to take a similar course and meet
them at that point. De Vaca was strongly opposed
to this plan, but his companions were thoroughly
weary of the sea, and were eager to seek their for
tunes on terra firma. Had they been more famil
iar with the country, the enterprise would not have
terminated so disastrously; for exploring parties.

CABEgA DE VACA. 29
sent out at the beginning of the march, found the
bay they were in search of, and, failing to recognize
it, believed they had been unsuccessful; while another
party, meeting Indians who wore golden ornaments,
were told by them of a place to the north, which they
called " Abalachie," where the metal could be found.
By following this direction they would have undoubt
edly reached the mines of Upper Georgia, which
would have amply satisfied them; but instead they
entered Appalachee toward the south, where they
found nothing but poor villages and no sign of the
coveted treasure.
From the old narratives, full as they are of exag
gerations, we catch a glimpse of a magnificent type
of the Indian here; living in wretched huts in the
most primitive way, and totally lacking in those
graces with which the imaginative Spaniards had
clothed them, yet none the less admirable, and pos
sessed of courage, intelligence, and a certain physical
elegance. After spending more than three weeks with these
Appalachians, who were described as men of gigantic
proportions, the company made preparations to move
on toward Haut6, where they were told they would
find an abundance of food, and a very rich region.
If Narvaez had been enterprising enough at this
point to verify the statements of the Indians, which
were made chiefly to induce him and his men to leave
their village, he would have found a broad expanse
of fertile and populous country all about him; but,
lacking in those active and daring qualities which
have ever characterized the successful explorer, he
was easily led by the cunning natives and persuaded
that the " good lands " lay beyond.

30 EARLY EXPLORERS.
At Haut6, as at Appalachee, the Spaniards met only
disappointment, for the inhabitants, learning of their
approach, had abandoned and burned their homes
and made away with their provisions. It was as
though some enchantment preceded them to de
stroy the villages and to lay waste the fields. They
were harassed on every side by hostile natives, who
watched for them whenever they ventured beyond
camp, and who sent showers of arrows into their
ranks on the march; until at last, worn out with
hunger, sickness, and fatigue, and thoroughly dis
couraged, their only desire was to escape. The ships
had not been heard from, and were supposed to have
returned to Havana, but De Vaca, with Captains Cas
tillo and Dorantes and an escort of fifty foot soldiers,
went to the Gulf, which was about a day's journey
away, to see if there might be a sail in sight. The
broad expanse betrayed no sign, and they were obliged
to return with the disheartening news. A council
was then called and a plan discussed which only
hopeless men could have determined upon. Imme
diately the forest was converted into a ship-yard,
where two hundred and forty men worked with the
energy of despair. Within six weeks they had com
pleted a fleet of flve boats out of whatever materials
were available, and by the twenty-second of Septem
ber, 1528, were ready to embark. "Narvaez com
manded the flrst boat; the second was in charge of
Enriquez, the controller, and Juan Suarez, the com
missary; in the third went Captains Castillo and
Dorantes; in the fourth. Captains Tellez and Penalosa,
and in the fifth, Cabega de Vaca — each boat carrying
about forty-eight men."
As it would have been disastrous to remain longer

CABEgA DB TACA. 31
on shore, where provisions were becoming more
scarce, where their lives were continually exposed to
the attacks of the Indians, and where the miasma of
the swamps began to breed a deadly fever, these two
hundred and forty half-starved and disappointed men
immediately put to sea, which was dangerous for
loosely constructed craft at any season, but doubly
so during the autumn months. They took a westerly
course along the coast, with the idea of reaching the
River of Palms and the Spanish settlements in Mex
ico — which on the maps of the time had been inaccu
rately placed — believing they would be less exposed
than by striking out across the Gulf; but notwith
standing this caution the company was destined to
destruction, and misfortune met it on every hand.
Narvaez, separated from his crew, which had gone
ashore, was swept out to sea in a violent storm and
never seen again. De Vaca's party, and those of Cas
tillo and Dorantes, were shipwrecked upon the Island
of Santa Rosa, where nearly all perished; while those
who were with Enriquez and Juan Suarez suffered
the most terrible privations aud at last they too mis
erably perished. The ninety six men in the boats
commanded by Captains Tellez and Penalosa, going
ashore near Pass Christian for water and provisions,
were killed by the natives, who could easily overcome
them, so weak had they become bodily and in
numbers. There were now only four survivors of that great
expedition which a short time before had left the Bay
of the True Cross believing their arms irresistible and
their success assured; these were De Vaca, Castillo,
Dorantes, and the Moor Estevanico. Through the
inevitable changes of a life among a strange and half-

33 EARLY EXPLORERS.
savage people, this little company soon became sepa
rated and its members subjected to a kind of servi
tude. For six years De Vaca stayed among the coast
tribes, carrying on a system of trade with the Indians
of the interior, and becoming familiar with their
language and customs, until at last he was able to
communicate with his companions with whom he
hoped to reach the Spanish settlements in Mexico.
This plan was, strangely enough, promoted by the
Indians, who began to hold the white men in super
stitious awe, calling them " medicine men," and
believing them endowed with supernatural powers.
De Vaca, with amusing frankness, describes his
modus operandi, which was to say a paternoster and
an ave maria over the patient; and he mentions the
generosity of the Indians, who, after "treatment,"
often gave the great "medicines" all they possessed,
and accompanied them in a kind of triumphal pro
cession from place to place. In this way they pene
trated the Western Wilderness, " traversing the bison
plains and the adobe towns of the half-civilized
natives of New Mexico, perched on their rocky
heights," and crossing the rugged and magnificent
passes of the Rockies.
Mr. John O'Shea, who has made a careful study of
the subject, in his "Discovery and Explorations of
the Mississippi," says: "In this long wandering he
(De Vaca) must have reached and crossed the Missis
sippi, but we in vain examine his narrative for some
thing to distinguish it from any other large river that
he met." In fact, it is entirely through conjecture
that De Vaca is given the beneflt of a doubt. By
some unexplained circumstance, he and his compan
ions may have entirely failed to cross the stream, and

^f^i^

DEVACA CROSSING THE CONTINENT.

34 EAELY EXPLORERS.
again, he may have been, as Mr. O'Shea adds, " the
first European who 'launched his boat upon its
waters.'" Upon coming to a large stream, to the westward,
the last in that lonely journey across the country,
De Vaca and his companions met a party of Indians,
from whom they learned that white men had recently
been seen near there, both on the water and on horse
back, and traces of their late passage were soon dis
covered. In a short time they were overtaken, and
found to be a band of Spaniards from a Mexican colony.
The meeting was a strange one, and the four wanderers
were greeted as those returned from the dead.
Clothed in the rough dress of the natives, which
long association had thrust upon them; changed by
contact with their peculiar life, and bronzed by expos
ure to wind and sun, their appearance produced a
singular effect upon their countrymen, none the less
heightened by a mysterious air, which had been capri
ciously assumed. They had explored the wonders of
a new land, and had visited unknown peoples — what
wonder, then, that they should entertain their un
questioning friends with tales of adventure, the more
fascinating because the more highly colored? The
Spaniards, with their natural love of the marvelous,
listened spellbound while De Vaca related the
experiences which he and his fellow-travelers had
passed through, regarding them with mingled curios
ity and admiration. Theywere received "with the
greatest sympathy by the Spanish authorities in
Mexico," and, having all their wants supplied, were
soon enabled to return to their native land, where
their recitals awakened even deeper interest and
enthusiasm.

CABEgA DE TACA. 35
Estevanico, the Moor, preferred to remain in Mex
ico, where he became the guide of Francisco Narco de
Nizza, and ultimately perished at the hands of the
Indians, who suspected him of treachery, because
he announced himself as the emissary of the white
people. De Vaca reached Havana on the fourth of May,
remaining there a month to await the arrival of the
two other vessels, on which Castillo and Dorantes had
taken passage; then, eager to return to Spain, and to
confer with his Sovereign upon the things which he
had seen, he sailed for Lisbon, which was reached on
the fifteenth of August, 1537.
It was De Vaca's policy, upon his return, to be non
committal, as he was anxious to privately inform the
King of the resources of what he called " the richest
country in the, world," and to beg the privilege of
returning to Florida in the service of his country;
but Charles, with royal partiality, was listening to
the requests of his more infiuential subjects, and
De Vaca was obliged to content himself with the
title of Adelantado of the province of Rio de la
Plata, a commission requiring active duty and some
danger. While discharging the functions of this office, he
became involved in a quarrel with one of his country
men, whose jealousy he had excited, which ultimately
resulted in his arrest and dismissal. Eight years of
exile in Africa followed, which, to one long accus
tomed to the privations of a strange country and
possessed of a strong love of adventure, must have
had its compensations.
Upon his recall in 1552 he was given a judgeship
in Seville, where he died in 1564.

36

EARLY EXPLORERS.

The story of his life, from beginning to end, is a
romance, in which the scenes and people of primitive
America are invested with the charm of history's
" distant twilight," into whose shadows many a stu
dent has ventured in the cause of truth. Among
these, several have become convinced, from their own
researches, that the honor of the discovery of the Mis
sissippi rightfully belongs to the brave lieutenant of
Panfilo Narvaez; and George Fairbanks, in his "His
tory of Florida," even pays him the tribute of saying
that "upon some high bluff of that wondrous stream
should be placed a monument " to this European who
first visited its shores.
Whether or not future investigation will uncrown
the old hero De Soto for one who may have unjustly
remained unrecognized is a question which only time
can answer; but whoever the claimant, we are ready
to say: "Honor to whom honor is due."

CHAPTER II.
HERNANDO DE SOTO.
'HE discovery of the Mississippi is
very generally ascribed to Hernando
De Soto, who, in his adventurous
march in pursuit of gold and glory,
reached the Great River in April,
1541, near the site of the present
city of Natchez.
In the opinion of most historians
no white man's eye had ever before beheld that flood
whose banks are now inhabited by busy millions, and
in following the achievements of its discoverer, we
find it fllled with new interest. From the cold springs
that rise in the northern wilderness, to the great torrent
that mingles with the tropical Gulf three thousand
miles below, the Spaniard who lies buried beneatii its
waters still claims an undying tribute. His ambitious
march westward, through treacherous swamps and
over flower-dotted prairies, in pursuit of the fabled El
Dorado; the desperate encounters with Indians, who
at every turn tried to resist the advance of his steel-
clad band; the delays and disappointments, and the
ultimate shattering of their " castles in Spain," all
form a narrative romantic and fascinating as one of
the enchantments of the Arabian Nights. Indeed,
were it not that the contemporaneous accounts tally
so nearly, we of a later day would be inclined to
(87^

38 EARLY EXPLORERS.
accept the adventures of these helmeted cavaliers with
much less allowance.
So closely is the life of De Soto identifled with the
history of exploration in the Valley of the Mississippi,
and so brilliant a touch has his presence added to its
early annals, that any sketch of the Great River with
out mention of him would lose its most attractive
feature. He was born in the little walled town of
Xer^s, in the province of Estramadura, Southern
Spain, in the year 1500, just at the threshold of the
new century, destined to be one of the brightest in
the annals of the Old World, and one of the most
significant in the history of the New. The ancestral
castle in which he first saw light, once the scene of
wealth and magniflcence, had become, through re
peated misfortunes to his family, only the dilapidated
abode of a haughty race, and Hernando found him
self, like many another young Spaniard of his time,
the heir of poverty and pride. His early surround
ings, and the enforced idleness which peculiar cir
cumstances pressed upon him, no doubt greatly
influenced his after career. His father was unable to
give him the advantages which were accessible to the
sons of richer noblemen, and custom forbade that the
family fortunes should be retrieved by work; so the
bright boy passed his childhood in comparative idle
ness, indulging at his will in the out-of-door sports,
for which he had a great fondness, and visiting
occasionally the neighboring monasteries, where he
probably received the religious bent that afterward
proved such a strong force in his character.
While a mere lad, De Soto came under the notice
of Don Pedro de Avila, Count of Puno en Rostro,
and this wealthy nobleman, impressed by the manly

HERNANDO DE SOTO. 39
bearing of the boy, and his personal attractiveness, be
came his patron, and offered him all the privileges of
an own son. He was sent to one of the leading Spanish
universities — probably that of Saragossa — where his
skill in fencing and horsemanship was perfected, and
where he received the further training that fitted him
for subsequent events. He was prominent at the
tournaments, and always excited the envy of com
petitive cavaliers in these exhibitions of martial
prowess. In the intervals between the university terms, Don
Pedro's proteg^ found a welcome in his foster-father's
home, where he became a great favorite; and so sure
was the confidence which his friend reposed in him,
that when the former was appointed Governor of
Darien, he asked De Soto to remain with his family
in the castle near Badajoz. Here, during Don Pedro's
absence, De Soto formed a strong attachment for the
Governor's second daughter, Isabella, a beautiful girl
of sixteen, who, in accordance with the custom of
her country and station, had already been presented
at court and received many flattering attentions.
Yet, notwithstanding the attractions of her more
eligible suitors. Donna Isabella showed a partial pref
erence for her poor cavalier, and in time the mutual
sentiment was sealed by a betrothal. The two were
constantly thrown together, and being congenial in
tastes passed many happy days in their common home.
At this time young De Soto possessed all the charms
of mind and person that would win for him the
admiration of his associates. He was tall and erect,
with the perfect grace that is acquired by familiarity
with athletic exercise; his features were handsome,
and suited his well -poised head; his bearing was

HERNANDO DE SOTO.
(40)

HERNANDO DE SOTO. 41
dignified, and his character without reproach. It
can not be wondered at, therefore, that two such
attractive beings should have been drawn together,
or that they should have become an example of love
and devotion for centuries afterward.
Upon the return of Don Pedro from Darien five
years later, to arrange his private affairs preparatory
to a more prolonged sojourn in the New World, his
daughter's betrothal was made known to him. At
first he was disposed to ridicule the affair; but
upon being persuaded by Isabella's governess that the
girl returned the affection, and that she had declared,
if her wish were opposed, she would enter a convent,
the matter became more serious, and finally took such
an offensive aspect that the count was beside himself
with vexation. He was the more disturbed from the
fact that a short time before Isabella had been sought
in marriage by one of the nobility — a young man hear
of kin to royalty itself; and that his daughter should
be indifferent to the bright prospects of such an
alliance, and prefer a dependent upon her father's
bounty, was more than the haughty noble could
endure. He began to treat his former favorite with
dislike and even contempt, and, while feigning indif
ference to the situation, formed a scheme for the
separation of the objects of his displeasure, and tried
to prevent their further intercourse.
Being possessed of an extremely sensitive nature,
De Soto felt keenly the rebuke of his benefactor.
He could boast of an ancestry as ancient and honor
able as that of Don Pedro, and by the rules of Span
ish heraldry "was entitled to admission into the
noble order of Santiago." He therefore resented the
marked discourtesy shown him, and determined to

43 EARLY EXPLORERS.
break down the mock barrier which had been raised
against him, by becoming rich. Accordingly, when
Don Pedro, with every pretension of friendship,
invited Hernando to accompany him upon his second
voyage to the New World, with the promise of a
captaincy, and suggestions of the fabled wealth of
America, the offer was gladly accepted. The young
man's parents were dead, and even had they not been,
their circumstances would hardly have been such as
to allow them to lend their son any assistance; besides,
he was without wealthy friends, and this opportunity
seemed to promise the fulfillment of his hopes.
Although every precaution had been taken to pre
vent a final meeting of the lovers, the watchers were
evaded, and Hernando and Isabella met again to renew
their pledge and to say farewell. They talked long
and earnestly of the future, and parted with Isabella's
meiliorable words, "Hernando, remember that one
treacherous friend is more dangerous than a thousand
avowed enemies." Soon after this interview Don
Pedro and his followers embarked at San Lucar, and
sailed toward the yet unexplored and attractive con
tinent which had burst upon the vision of Columbus
but a short time before, and which had already begun
to dazzle the eye of Europe with its magniflcent pos
sibilities. In the course of this voyage the wily Governor
doubtless perfected his plans for the ruin of his
unsuspecting prot6g4, whom he had determined to
subject to such trying circumstances that he would
be powerless to oppose them. With the cleverness of
the arch flend himself, he arranged perilous expedi
tions, in which De Soto's life would be more or less
exposed, and, presupposing that the young captain

HERNANDO DE SOTO. 43
would be gratified by the confidence thus placed in
him, congratulated himself upon the outcome.
Upon their arrival at Darien, De Soto was given
command of a troop of horse, and with these steel-
clad followers began the brilliant career which has
filled many a page of early history with valiant deeds,
and touched them with the fascinating color of
romance. The field for daring adventure was most
prolific, and wherever the cavalry led, there could be
seen the white plume of De Soto. His contempo
raries, however, have not charged him with any of
the disgusting crimes of which his brother officers
were guilty, and which were often done in obedience
to Don Pedro's command. Upon one occasion he
refused to obey a distasteful order and sent the Gov
ernor his decided disapproval. This involved him in
a duel with one of his most desperate companions,
who was sent to him with the message, and whom
De Soto took occasion to visit with his scorn; but his
old-time training and unerring arm gave him the
advantage in the encounter, and he escaped unhurt.
A similar instance of his moral courage occurred
during Pizarro's raid upon the territories of the
Indian Uracca in 1531.
That outraged monarch, having suffered beyond
endurance from the unprovoked attacks of the Span
iards, at last made preparation to resist them. He
gathered about him a force of some twenty thousand
warriors, armed with their deadly arrows and wooden
swords, and these, under his leadership, started
toward the camp of the enemy. Don Pedro, learn
ing of the intended attack, made plans to circumvent
the Indians, who were much stronger in numbers,
and sending a party under Espinosa by sea, along the

44 EARLY EXPLORERS.
western coast of Uracca's dominions, and another by
land under Pizarro, attempted to rout the opposing
forces by a surprise. De Soto and his troop joined
Pizarro's division. Uracca, with a thousand men,
perceiving the approach of Espinosa from the coast,
went bravely to the attack, and succeeded in com
pletely demoralizing the Spanish soldiery; but De
Soto, having heard the noise of battle from a distance,
left his position and hurried with all dispatch to the
aid of his distressed countrymen, thus turning the
fortunes of the day.
The approach to the scene of conflict was through
an almost impassable part of the country, cut up by
huge rocks and seamed with chasms, and over this
difficult way the dauntless captain led his hesitating
followers by his own example and by the electrifying
war-cry, " Sant lago to the rescue ! "
The charge of this unexpected force, and above all
the sight of the unfamiliar horses, whose riders were
proof against the showers of arrows sent into their
midst, struck terror into their hearts and caused
them to retreat to the hills in consternation; but
having regained their courage there, they began such
a vigorous onslaught upon the Spaniards in the
valley below, that those warriors quickly retreated to
their ships to avoid the hail of poisoned darts. See
ing this action on the part of their recent conquerors,
the Indians ran down from their shelter and renewed
the attack. In a moment the quick eye of De Soto
saw their movement, and, knowing their fear of
horses, ordered his men to face about. This
frightened the pursuers, who were now willing to
watch the Spaniards from a safe distance. At this
point Pizarro and Espinosa met to discuss the

HERNANDO DE SOTO. 45
situation, and decided upon retreat. De Soto could
not endure such cowardice. He knew that although
the numbers of the Spaniards were considerably less
than those of the enemy, the latter could never cope
with the trained soldiers arrayed against them, and he
felt besides, a certain responsibility for his country's
glory. He therefore looked upon the cowardly action
of his superior officers with ill-concealed disgust, and
availed himself of the flrst opportunity to display his
sentiment. This occurred but a short time after
ward when, having abandoned the field, the Spanish
forces fell upon a small village farther up the coast
and began their murderous work.
The men of the village were away, and the pillagers,
taking advantage of their absence, undertook to make
prisoners of the women and children. This again
excited the indignation of De Soto, who informed
Espinosa that if his severe measures were not sus
pended, and the captives released, he would withdraw
his men and leave him to his fate. Espinosa under
stood the strength of this threat, and considering the
consequences, sullenly consented.
After this affair, De Soto went to Darien with mes
sages to the Governor, and upon his return found the
force at Borrica hemmed in by Uracca's men. By a
few masterly sallies he succeeded in dispersing the
besiegers, and while engaged in this way was able to
save the life of one Micer Codro, who afterward
returned the kindness by risking his life for him.
Codro was an Italian scientist and astrologer, who had
been exiled from his native country under the convic
tion of being a magician, and had come to America
when Don Pedro's predecessor, Vasco Nufiez de Bal
boa, was Governor. Under this mild administration

46 EARLY EXPLORERS.
the student had pursued his favorite studies unmo
lested, and had won the friendship of the natives,
but in the excitement of the encounter with their
new foes they mistook him for an enemy, and would
have killed him had not De Soto interposed. Although
he showed very little gratitude at the time, being, as he
afterward expressed it, too much his debtor to make a
sufficient acknowledgment, he later performed a kind
ness which few men would have dared to undertake.
When De Avila wished to send messages to Spain,
and was deliberating as to whom he might intrust
with the valuable papers, knowing too well that none
of his favorites was reliable, he fixed upon the sim
ple-minded Italian.
Upon leaving Spain, Don Pedro had taken every
precaution to prevent any correspondence between
De Soto and his daughter. All letters were inter
cepted, and a violation of his commands was punisha
ble by death; but Codro was willing to risk the
penalty that he might in a small way return the
obligation to his friend. For five years no communi
cation had passed between the lovers, and now that
an opportunity offered, De Soto feared to involve the
bearer of his message. However, he was persuaded
to accept the favor, and intrusted Micer Codro with
a letter to his lady-love, for whom he still entertained
feelings of the tenderest affection. The Italian gladly
delivered the message to Donna Isabella, receiving her
warmest gratitude in return, and offered to carry
her answering letter; but unfortunately for those
concerned, the incautious man stated, upon his arrival
at Badajoz, that he had a packet for Don Pedro's
daughter, whicii aroused the suspicion of the vigilant
inmates of the castle.

HERNANDO DE SOTO. 47
The same ship that carried Codro back to Darien,
bore communications to Don Pedro convicting the
bearer of his letters, and virtually sealing his fate.
Within a few days after his return he was sent upon
a supposed mineralogical survey to the gulf of San
Miguel and was never seen again. His fate was even
unknown until after the disgraceful expedition to
Nicaragua, when De Soto came by chance upon the
captain and his crew whom Don Pedro had com
missioned to murder Codro. These wretches were
boasting of the way in which they had tortured their
victim, and were laughing at his death agonies, when
De Soto, overhearing the remarks, and burning with
revenge, rushed upon the leader and dispatched him
with his sword. Then, turning to the crew, who
were long accustomed to such violent sights, and
who were more than half inclined to sympathize with
the avenger, he made such a bitter charge against
them that they were glad to escape without punish
ment. When Codro was expiring, he had declared
that his tormentor would soon follow him, and it was
when the murderer was laughing at the possibility,
that De Soto came forward and fulfilled the prophecy.
Some time before this De Soto had been sent by
the Governor to Nicaragua in search of a passage,
which was supposed to exist, connecting the two
oceans. After having explored seven hundred miles
of sea coast in a fruitless search for the imaginary
strait, the expedition returned; but not without some
recompense, for the rich country through which they
had passed had yielded them a magniflcent bounty.
De Soto was beginning to realize his ambition. He
had always maintained an independent attitude toward
the Governor, but now that he had acquired a small

48 EARLY EXPLORERS.
fortune he could better afford to show his indiffer
ence. He was flrst to acquaint Don Pedro with the
fact that his successor, whom the King of Spain had
sent, was already on the way to Darien. This in
duced the guilty official to seek refuge in Nica
ragua, for he hardly expected to be treated with
more clemency than he himself had shown toward
his predecessor, and, once in the neighboring terri
tory, he could put an end to Cordova, for whom he
entertained the strongest hatred and envy. He there
fore went to Leon, and, under pretense of good will,
sent messengers to acquaint that official of his coming.
He was welcomed in the public square, where he
drew up his soldiers in such order as to presage
treachery to his kindly host; but this honest-hearted
ruler had no fear of the man from whom he had
received his authority. Now that his superior had
arrived, he proceeded to extend the courtesies of
hospitality, and to give an account of his own
administration. He had not gone far in his recital
when Don Pedro, according to a pre-arranged plan,
ordered his headsman, who was standing in readiness,
to put an end to the unsuspecting Cordova, whose
head an instant later was rolling in the dust.
De Soto, who, with his men, had taken a position
on the side of the square opposite to Don Pedro and
his guards, now spurred to desperation at sight of his
friend's murder, dashed with drawn sword upon Don
Pedro and would have dispatched him, had he not,
by a sudden self-mastery, forborne for the sake of
Isabella, and, without a sign of resistance from the
soldiers, returned to his place. An instant later, Don
Pedro, having recovered from his momentary conster
nation, called out: "Hernando De Soto yon are

HERNANDO DB SOTO. 49
ordered to dismount and submit yourself to the pun
ishment you have just seen inflicted upon your trait
orous comrade. Soldiers, drag him from his horse
if he refuses to obey."
For a time the men held back, but one of them at
last stepped forward in obedience to the order. With
a powerful sweep of his sabre De Soto cleaved liis
helmet in twain, and Don Pedro, seeing that to insist
would be dangerous, since he was not supported,
allowed the matter to pass.
By a complication of circumstances the King's em
issary never landed at Darien, and reassured, Don
Pedro again assumed the authority which he had not
really given up. Pizarro was now projecting an
unprovoked raid upon Peru in quest of gold and
glory, and was calling upon the Governor for rein
forcements. He desired especially the cooperation of
De Soto, who, he knew, would be a strong ally. The
proposition was submitted to De Soto, who unac
countably accepted it, greatly to the satisfaction of
Don Pedro and Pizarro, but unfortunately for his
own good name. It might be said in defense of this
course, however, that continued disappointments had
driven the Spaniard almost to desperation, and, uncer
tain of the future, he recklessly joined his fortunes
with the murderous adventurer in the hope that he
might be able to acquire the wealth and renown
which was his ultimate and absorbing aim.

CHAPTER IIL

DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO.
LEAVING Darien, we turn to a new chap
ter in the career of De Soto — his con
nection with Francisco Pizarro in the
conquest of Peru, which forms the most
romantic, if not the most noteworthy,
I period of his stirring and adventurous
life.
It is possible that reference to the expedition of
Pizarro may not seem entirely consistent with one of
the chief purposes of this volume, which is to pre
sent De Soto as the discoverer of the Mississippi
River; still, the narrative of his heroic deeds would
be incomplete without alluding briefly, at least, to
that dark page in his history, which, were it possi
ble, I would gladly strike from his soldier escutch
eon. It is not strange that the invasion and conquest of
one of the richest countries of South America should
have presented some attractions to this lover of
adventure, nor that when Pizarro found himself con
fronted by overwhelming numbers in the mountain
fastnesses of Peru, he should have remembered the
gallant and chivalrous De Soto, who had given ample
proof of his soldierly qualities. When, therefore, he
urged the Governor to send his captain forward, ,
holding out to that officer, meanwhile, the promise of
second in command in the coming expedition, he
(5o;

DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 51
Knew that the inducement would hardly fail. In
confirmation of his prediction, De Soto started south
ward, soon afterward, with two ships and a small but
strong force, in the direction of the Island of Puna,
a strip of land separated from the mainland by a
narrow channel, where Pizarro had been in possession
for a short time. Upon his arrival there, De Soto
found to his surprise that the promise of the lieuten
ancy was only a ruse which had been resorted to in
order to secure his services, as that position was
already filled by Pizarro's elder brother, Hernando.
The honor only rested nominally upon the latter,
however, for from the moment that De Soto entered
camp he was accorded the honors due to his deserved
rank, and the general sentiment was never opposed
by Pizarro, who, in his abject nature, did not dare to
show any resentment toward a man so vastly his supe
rior, and upon whose cooperation he must com
pletely rely.
During his short stay within the territory of the
Peruvian monarch, ostensibly to convert its people to
Christianity, all manner of outrages had been com
mitted by Pizarro and his confederates, and reports
of his crimes had reached the mainland before the
coming of De Soto. It was therefore the policy of
the commander-in-chief to remain in the background,
while his lieutenant, with a small f ollovnng, went to
reconnoitre the country and to see what manner of
people they would have to encounter. As the rafts
bearing the steel-clad warriors were slowly pushed
ashore, the natives, naturally alarmed at the unusual
sight, and determined to put an end to the invaders
who were bringing destruction to their homes, at
tempted to make some resistance; but the invincible

52 EARLY EXPLORERS.
Spaniards soon gained the advantage and began
their march toward Tumbez. Some time previously
Pizarro had visited this town, and while craftily
holding in check his desire for plunder, in order that
he might form some idea of its wealth, had inspired
the hospitable citizens with confidence, and had been
given the freedom of a trusted friend; but the later
news of his cruelties on the neighboring island had
given them an idea of his intentions, so that upon
his second visit he found only abandoned and dis
mantled houses.
This was a disappointment to the "conquerors,"
but they were not limited in their new field. With
an escort of sixty horsemen and twenty foot soldiers,
De Soto was soon sent to explore the towns lying
farther in the interior. The natural fearlessness of
the man who, free from the guilty motives that actu
ated his commander, could penetrate the lonely and
unknown passes of this South American country
without forebodings, won for him the confidence and
good-will of the peaceful Peruvians. It is not prob
able that he believed he was violating any moral law
in pursuing this course, nor that he need expect any
resistance from the natives. The expedition was
approved by his Catholic Majesty, the King of
Spain, and any gold of which he or his companions
might come into possession was to be obtained by
legitimate means, for he especially enjoined his men
not to commit any violence. In fact, everything
tended to give his advance into the territories of the
Inca the appearance of a peaceful embassy. The
gleam of shield and sword, the grace of richly capari
soned steeds, the proud bearing of the helmeted cava
liers, and the waving of silken banners contributed

DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 53
to make the passing of the glittering cavalcade a
novel and awe-inspiring spectacle; while the lovely
scenery of Peru, although lately marked by the
demolition of civil war, in turn won the admiration
of the Spaniards.
In slowly pursuing their course through the narrow
defiles and along the fertile valleys, De Soto and his
followers came upon the great highway leading to
the capital of the empire, which extended for fifteen
hundred railes across the varied passes of the Andes.
This stupendous evidence of engineering skill, ac
complished by a comparatively obscure people,
intimated to the Spaniards the possible strength of
a nation which they had come to molest, and which,
had their ultimate aims been known, could have
crushed them at a single blow. Like the native
houses, this road had been constructed of great
blocks of stone, so dexterously fitted together as to
make it appear one solid mass of masonry. Continu
ing their way upon this magniflcent thoroughfare,
the adventurers found themselves nearing the head
quarters of the Peruvian camp, which was located
about three miles from the town of Caxamarca. At
Guoncabama they were met by the Inca's envoy,
bearing gifts and friendly greetings to Pizarro, and
were asked to return with him to their chief.
With some hesitation, De Soto consented, retrac
ing his course to San Miguel, the town which
Pizarro was founding, some ninety miles south of
Tumbez. It is said that the superstitious Pizarro, while
engaged in a close battle with the Indians a short
time before, had seen spirits hovering in the air above
the contesting ranks; those on his side apparently led

54 EARLY EXPLORERS.
by one resembling Saint Michael, while those of the
enemy represented the forces of the Dark Angel.
In the heat of the encounter. Saint Michael and
his host were seen to meet and overcome the oppos
ing ranks, which Pizarro took as a sign of his own
triumph. With renewed vigor the battle was con
tinued, the Spaniard vowing, if his men conquered,
he would do something in honor of the friendly
saint. The result was the building of a town which
was to become the center of a large colony, and
whose patron was to be San Miguel.
Having entered its walls, the Inca's envoy, with
all the ceremony of an ostentatious court, delivered
the greetings and gifts of his Sovereign to the Spanish
general; but Pizarro, notwithstanding these tokens
of amity, suspected Attahuallapa of treachery, and
feared to be drawn into some snare.
De Soto's report of the magnificence of the larger
towns through which he had passed, and the friend
liness of the people, in a measure reassured him, and
more effectually aroused his craving for plunder, for
during De Soto's absence he had conceived a design
to seize the Inca iu his own stronghold, and to assume
control of the rich dominions which would thus fall
into his victorious hand. These designs had not been
made known to De Soto, who, he knew, would have
rejected them. It was therefore innocently that
his lieutenant conducted him to the presence of the
Peruvian ruler, and in the name of the King of Spain
besought an interview.
The first meeting of the Inca and De Soto was a
noble sight, and one which the historian has delighted
to describe. On the wide plain beyond Caxamarca
stretched the tents of the Indian army — a force

THE INCA RECEIVING DE SOTO.

56 EARLY EXPLORERS.
numbered by thousands — with the gorgeous pavilion
of the Inca in their midst; and here, sheltered by
his protecting legions, the Indian ruler awaited the
approach of the Spaniard. When within a few
paces of the Inca, partly out of respect to the dignity
of his presence, and partly to lessen the fears of the
attendants, who were unable to emulate the proud
indifference of their King at sight of the spirited
white horse which the stranger rode, that gallant
cavalier dismounted, and advanced to offer his salu
tations. In reply to his request that Pizarro be granted an
audience, the Inca appointed the next day, and, as
De Soto noticed during their conversation that
Attahuallapa betrayed some interest in the restless
movements of the horse, which had been left in
charge of an attendant, he mounted and performed
several equestrian feats, greatly to the astonish
ment and terror of the awed retainers. This over,
DeSoto retired, bearing the royal message to Pizarro.
It was not until late in the afternoon of November
sixteenth, 1532, that the Inca, with his splendid
cortege, approached the public square of Caxamarca,
the place which had been agreed upon for the
meeting. Already the body of armed warriors,
drawn up in imposing array, awaited his coming.
Attahuallapa, dressed in the gorgeous robes of his
office, his handsome head bound in the variegated
turban from which hung the scarlet tassel, the insignia
of his rank, his pensive features standing out in
striking contrast against the glittering palanquins
presented an impressive and suggestive spectacle to
the Spaniards.
Friar Vincent, Pizarro's spiritual adviser, and the

DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 57
chief among the missionary band, so-called, now
advanced toward the King with upheld crucifix, and
in the language of his priestly office exhorted him to
embrace the Catholic faith, presenting some of its
doctrines, and saying that it was for this that his
countrymen had entered the Peruvian territories.
The abruptness and strangeness of the address
somewhat surprised Attahuallapa, who, with becom
ing firmness, refused to relinquish the religion of his
fathers, and awaited the further pleasure of his
inexplicable guests. Friar Vincent immediately re
ported his non-success to Pizarro, and, incensed at
the proud bearing of the Peruvian, encouraged his
master to set upon the obstinate unbelievers. The
time for action had come. If the opportunity were
lost, the Spaniards might be surrounded and an
nihilated, for their leader well knew that his out
rages would, sooner or later, raise rebellion. In a
moment the square was a battle-ground, the Peruvian
retainers, filled with consternation, and defenseless,
were being hewn down, or attempting to escape the
massacre; the bearers of the royal palanquin were
giving way before the deadly swords of their assailants,
and the Inca was at the mercy of Pizarro and his
men. A body of desperate Indians had burst through
the stone inclosure of the square and were fleeing
toward the distant tents, hotly pursued by a body of
horsemen; but their object gained, the troops were
recalled and the carnage stopped.
What part De Soto took in this perfidious affair
has not been recorded. With the friendly feeling he
entertained for Attahuallapa, it is not probable that he
would enter into any conspiracy against him, or that
he would countenance such a breach of military honor.

58 EARLY BXPLOEERS.
If he was a witness of the scene, and made no attempt
to prevent it, this is the darkest accusation that can be
brought against him, but his subsequent kindness to
the outraged monarch would seem to deny even this.
During the dark days that followed, De Soto made
frequent visits to the captive, and Attahuallapa, rec
ognizing his superior qualities and sense of honor,
soon gave him his cofidence. Through De Soto the
agreement was drawn up by which the Inca was to be
released upon the payment of the fabulous sum which,
in his desperation, he had offered. This ransom,
consisting of two rooms closely fllled with gold and
silver ornaments, taken from temple and home, was
gladly given by the faithful Peruvians for the return
of their Sovereign, whom they reverenced almost to
idolatry; but even this did not satisfy Pizarro. He
feared to release Attahuallapa, as he might, when
returned to his people, excite their sense of injustice.
He therefore notifled his officers of his intentions
upon the Inca's life, whicii he had long determined
to take, giving as his reason the involved position of
the Spanish troops, and hinting that the Peruvians
were already preparing for au attack.
De Soto, who felt that his honor, as well as that of
Pizarro, was at stake, had been continually urging
Attahuallapa's release, and refused to believe the
report of an uprising; but Pizarro with his usual cun
ning, suggested that his incredulous lieutenant take
a body of horse and reconnoitre that part of the coun
try supposed to be the gathering place of the enemy's
forces. This De Soto undertook without delay, hop
ing the sooner to set the prisoner at liberty; while
Pizarro, relieved of his presence, prepared to carry
out his terrible purpose.

DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 59
The Inca once out of the way, the Peruvians would
be thrown into a state of confusion, thus making the
seizure of the capital easy, and safety assured for
the "Christian missionaries."
When Attahuallapa was informed of his fate, he
seemed overcome by its cruelty, and called excitedly
for his friend De Soto, who he hoped might mitigate
the sentence; but Pizarro mockingly informed him
that De Soto was far away and powerless to lend
him any assistance. Although he had received very
little encouragement, he confldently believed that
Pizarro would keep his promise and treat him honor
ably. The sudden crushing of his hopes was there
fore doubly cruel.
The execution was arranged to take place at night
fall, and the soldiers, bearing torches, were called
together at a given signal from their leader. The
Inca, his wretched captivity about to end, was once
more led out under the open sky, shackled hand
and foot, and bound to the stake. Friar Vincent
approached and again exhorted him to embrace the
faith of Rome, with the promise that the manner of
his death would be mitigated by the act; but to this
hypocritical appeal Attahuallapa refused to listen,
accepting his fate with courageous firmness.
De Soto, soon returning from his fruitless expedi
tion, found the Inca dead and the Spaniards plan
ning to take possession of his dominions. His grief
and anger knew no bounds. Going to Pizarro's tent,
he bitterly accused him of the murder and threatened
to report the crime to the King of Spain; then
throwing down his glove in the presence of those who
had heard his accusation, he challenged them to deny
the guilt of their chief. Receiving no response, he

60 EARLY EXPLORERS.
turned and left the tent, with mingled feelings of
hatred and remorse. The fact that he should have
joined them afterward in their march toward Cuzco
seems strangely inconsistent; but to abandon his
countrymen in their hour gf peril would have appeared
cowardly, and Hernando De Soto was not the one to
retreat. The advance upon the capital brought ruin and
desolation to the villages along the route, for while
De Soto, with his stout-hearted band, was hurrying
forward, sparing always private property, while occa
sionally plundering the temples and shrines, Pizarro,
with his freebooters, was pillaging and plundering in
every direction. In this way the road was cleared,
and the attacks of the natives repulsed by the swords of
De Soto's men, while Pizarro reaped the benefits. In
the meantime, Tapaxpa, the grief-stricken son of
Attahuallapa, had been seized and declared his
father's successor, that Pizarro might still hold the
Inca in his power. Another captive was one of
the most influential of the nobility, a man trusted
and loved bythe Peruvians, whom Pizarro guarded and
declared to be held as a hostage, threatening to put
him to death at the first sign of rebellion from the
people. This unfortunate victim, upon a slight out
break during the march toward Cuzco, was notified
that his end was near, and was tendered the consola
tions of the church; but this offer presented no attrac
tions to one who had suffered such injustice at the
hands of its fanatical devotees, and he told them that
he did not understand their religion, and all he had
seen of it had not impressed him favorably.
When within a short distance of the capital, De
Soto's troop was assailed by a desperate band of

DB SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 61
Peruvians, who had taken a position on high ground
above the pass through which the Spaniards were
moving, and who determined to make a last effort to
destroy their enemies. Stones were hurled from the
overhanging cliffs, and showers of arrows sent clash
ing down upon the steel armor of horse and rider,
but De Soto quickly dashed up the steep defile, and,
once on the level plain, routed the enemy. The
news of defeat was soon spread, and, having lost all
hope, the Peruvians hurried to the city and applied
the torch to every wall. As the conquering army
approaohed, they saw its palaces and temples in
flames and its inhabitants vanished. Hurrying
hither and thither, they attempted to rescue part of
the gold and silver which had not been carried away,
but the conflagration was too great, and the splendid
treasures of the Inca were lost in the ruins.
The conquest of Peru accomplished, and his desire
for gold thoroughly satisfled, De Soto now turned
with renewed craving to the peaceful conflnes of
Spain, and to the long-delayed meeting with Donna
Isabella. He, therefore, prepared to return, that he
might claim the hand of his lady-love, and share with
her his splendid fortune. A good share of Attahual
lapa's ransom had fallen to him, and he had accepted
it rather than allow it to go into the hands of Pizarro.
While following the fortunes of his associates in Peru,
he C'.eems to have attempted in a degree the moderation
of their terrible deeds, and the upholding of his coun
try's honor. That he did not do so more effectually
is the one great reproach which humanity raises
against him; the one great blemish upon an other
wise admirable and chivalrous career.

CHAPTER IV.
DISCOVERY OE THE MISSISSIPPI.
WO years of luxury and inactivity in Spain
after the hardships of the Peruvian ex
pedition, had satisfled the restless spirit
of De Soto, and quite exhausted the
wealth which he had accumulated.
Unsparingly the golden treasure of
the Inca had been given in exchange for
the extravagances which attracted the wealthier
grandees, and the envied cavalier again found it neces
sary to seek his fortune beyond the sea. While he was
still in South America with Pizarro, Don Pedro had
died, leaving the greater share of his wealth for the
erection of a convent, over which his elder daughter
was appointed abbess, and disinheriting his former
favorite on account of her faithful attachment to Don
Hernando, for whom, to the last, he entertained the
strongest dislike. Isabella was therefore unable to
follow her generous impulses and avoid another
separation. At this time all Europe was stirred by the tales of
Cabega de Vaca, one of the adventurers who had
escaped the fate of his companions under Narvaez in
Florida, and who suggested to his credulous country
men untold regions of gold in the chimerical El
Dorado. His words had magical effect. Immedi
ately the rich flelds of North America were the
(63)

DISCOTERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 63
engrossing topic, the cynosure of ambitious fortune-
seekers. Very naturally, De Soto came into promi
nence, and was soon known to be contemplating an
expedition thither. He believed that he would flnd
an easier road to fortune in the land which De Vaca
had described than in the mountains of Peru, and
he accordingly appealed to King Charles V., offering
to meet all expenses and to reserve a fifth of the
treasure for the crown if His Majesty would sanction
the undertaking.
With admirable generosity, Charles gave his con
sent, offering his zealous subject the governorship of
Cuba, with other high-sounding dignities, and grant
ing him an estate, with the title of Adelantado, in
Florida. Enthusiastic knights from every direction
now hastened to place themselves under the leader
ship of De Soto, and to make preparations for their
voyage. The magnificence of the equipments was in
accordance with their inflated ideas, representing
vast sums of money, and appearing more suitable for
a triumphal march through the reputed land of gold,
than for the toilsome and dangerous campaigns which
were actually to be endured.
The passage of De Soto and his followers through
her streets, en route to the ships, formed probably
the most brilliant pageant which the citizens of San
Lucar had ever witnessed.
With waving pennants, and decks glittering with
the armor of nine hundred knights, the fleet moved
slowly out of port, taking a southerly course in the
direction of the Canary Isles. Within two weeks
they cast anchor at Gomera, sailing from thence to
San lago de Cuba, which was reached toward the
latter part of May. As the distance lessened between

64 EARLY EXPLORERS.
them and their El Dorado, the adventurers, impa
tient of delay, urged the termination of the voyage;
and De Soto, equally eager, hastened forward to
Havana, where final arrangements were to be made.
Two brigantines were sent out from here to discover
the most practicable route for the expedition, and
upon their return knight and lady bade adieu; the
great band of explorers, now ten hundred strong,
were animated with the hope of their future achieve
ments, while Isabella having been appointed regent
during the Governor's absence, assumed the responsi
bilities of the office with many sad forebodings.
Seven days later, on Whitsunday, 1539, the fieet
reached the quiet waters of Tampa Bay, which they
named Espirito Santo, in honor of the day. Here
they met the first opposition. On the high hills
along the shore the beacons of the unknown natives
were sending out a menacing signal, and De Soto,
wishing to avoid any unnecessary encounter, pru
dently made a landing two leagues beyond. A march
of a few miles through the enchanted wilderness,
gorgeous in its luxuriant tangles of tropical vegeta
tion, brought the Spaniards to an abandoned village,
the home of the Indian chief Ucita, where the first
encampment was made. Here, instead of the rude
dwellings of the northern tribes, they found houses
of wood, some of them adorned with liangingB of
finely cured and handsomely colored skins, with floor
mats of the same soft texture; while the dwelling of
the cacique, standing apart upon a little eminence,
bore traces of being more fancifully arranged than
the rest.
As soon as he had taken possession of this con
venient camp, De Soto sent messengers to Ucita

DISCOVERY OE THE MISSISSIPPI. 65
stating the peaceful object of his journey, and asking
for his friendship; but the chief ignored these ad
vances, and kept his Avhereabouts a secret.
Unfortunately for those who were to follow him,
Narvaez had thoroughly antagonized the natives
through whose territories he had passed, and had
aroused in them a stubborn and bitter hatred. Wher
ever he had gone he had given fresh cause for revenge,
and to the chief whose good-will De Soto was now
seeking, he had offered the most shocking atrocities.
It was therefore useless to remain longer at this
point, with the hope of receiving any information or
of obtaining guides. Troops were sent out in every
direction to reconnoitre. One of these parties, upon
leaving camp, came upon a body of Indians, who,
frightened at the appearance of the strangers, ran
into the woods. One of their number, however,
remained in sight, and, advancing, made the sign of
the cross, greatly to the astonishment of the Span
iards. When the mysterious flgure reached them, they
learned that he was Juan Ortiz, a survivor of the
Narvaez expedition, who had been captured by the
Indians, and, after suffering many persecutions at the
hands of his captors, had flnally escaped and received
the protection of a friendly chief.
After hearing the story of their countryman's
adventures, and rejoicing in his recovery, the men
anxiously questioned him concerning the reputed
gold fields. But Ortiz, having been confined to the
limits of a single tribe, was neither able to give them
any information nor to act as their guide. Upon
finding no sign of the coveted treasure, and dis
couraged by the hardships which had already been
met with, De Soto sent the ships back to Cuba, and

66 EARLY EXPLORERS.
planned a march toward the north. Hunger had
already begun to threaten the band, but, finding
occasional flelds of maize, and here and there a fertile
stretch of country, the men bravely advanced under
the leadership of their dauntless captain, baffling
native treachery, and encountering the difficulties of
swamp and forest, where their lives were continually
in jeopardy.
Still led on by rumors of gold, De Soto and his
followers reached the domain of Vitachuco, the
cacique whose stratagem brought about one of the
most picturesque episodes in the history of the
expedition. This Indian, harboring a deadly revenge
against the Spaniards, notwithstanding the passive
tolerance of his brother chiefs, determined to annihi
late the invaders when he should have them in his
power. Under the guise of friendship he invited
them to his village, and while showing them every
attention formed a plot for their destruction as ingen
ious as it was deadly.
On an appointed day the Spaniards were to be
invited to witness some maneuvers of Vitachuco's
warriors, the Indian weapons to be concealed in the
long grass, and at a given signal from the chief, the
conspirators were to seize the hidden arms and rush
upon their defenseless guests — ^Vitachuco, with twelve
chosen braves, to single out the leader. De Soto,
liaving been Avarned by the faithful Ortiz, was pre
pared to meet the forces of the enemy on their own
ground, and when the fatal day arrived accepted the
invitation of the chief with evident pleasure. The
scene of conflict, as the old historians describe it, was
a magnificent one. Out on the sunny plain stretched
the long line of warriors drawn up in martial array.

DISCOVERY OE THE MISSISSIPPI. 67
their treacherous weapons hidden in the long grass;
while opposite, De Soto, with his followers, was
watching with intent gaze the dexterous movements
of the Indians, and waiting for the cacique's signal.
In an instant the warning came. AVith the swiftness
of eagles the traitorous band closed upon the Span
iards; but finding, to their astonishment, that they
must deal with a force as carefully armed and as
fully prepared as themselves, their onset was soon
repulsed. Leaving Vitachuco, the expedition moved on toward
the north until the Great Morass was reached; thence
to the southwest toward Appalachee Bay, where the
boats from Cuba were met and sent westward in
search of a favorable port. The march was then
directed toward the northeast, where there was a
region abounding in pearls and gold, whose Sovereign
was the gentle and amiable Queen called by the old
chroniclers "the Ladie of the Countree." The Span
iards seem to have received every kindness at her
hands, and to have found a fabulous amount of pearls
of high value, and yet they kept the " ladie " as a
hostage, it is said, to insure the non-resistance of her
people. Under some pretext, however, she effected
her escape, a gallant Spaniard disappearing at the
same time, and upon this episode a Southern writer
has woven his romantic tale of " Andres Vasconselos."
Still deceived by the misrepresentations of their
guides, and by the flnding of the pearls, the travelers
pursued their ignisfatuus through the fields of
South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, whither it
led them many a weary march. Then turning south
ward they reached Mauvilla, from which the present
town of Mobile probably derived its name. Here

68 EARLY EXPLORERS.
their slaves were captured and the pearls lost with
them, but De Soto, determined to avenge the robbery,
made a violent attack upon the place, setting flre to
the houses in which his valuable treasures were con
sumed. Here also the ships sent from Appalachee
were heard from, but for various reasons De Soto did
not wish to have their arrival known. He had hoped
to send back to Cuba glowing accounts of the country
and to make presents of pearls and gold, but both
these plans had become impossible. He feared, too,
if those who were with him once saw the means of
abandoning the enterprise, they would leave him
powerless to advance, for with the disheartening
opposition which he had met during eighteen
months, the courageous spirit of De Soto was still
unwilling to acknowledge failure. Having, therefore,
planned the course he would pursue, he held no com
munication with Maldonado, the captain of the
ships, but turned resolutely away, "determined to
send no news of himself until he had found some
rich country."
After waiting many weeks for some sign of the
expedition, Maldonado returned to Cuba, where the
Governor and those who were with him were lamented
as dead.
In the meanwhile, De Soto was taking a north
westerly course through the flelds and forests of what
is now the flourishing State of Mississippi, and slowly
approaching that Great Stream with which his destiny
became so closely linked. As he advanced, the In
dians became more hostile, contesting the way with
arrow and tomahawk and harassing the encampment
at night. His men, too, were discontented, having
seen hundreds of their companions perish from

DISCOTERY OE THB MISSISSIPPI. 69
exposure and violence, and having found no recom
pense for their wearisome marches. Yet under these
embarrassments the intrepid cavalier led them on,
apparently stimulated by defeat and strengthened by
difficulty. At last the shores of the Mississippi were reached,
it is conjectured, between the thirty-flfth and
thirty-sixth parallels of latitude, a few miles below
Memphis. What impression the river made upon
De Soto and his companions as they came suddenly
upon it can only be imagined. It was then, as
it is now, a turbulent flood, whirling along on its
muddy surface a mass of logs and driftwood from
the forest banks above, where the white man was
unknown and the Indian was still monarch. They
had found nothing in all their wanderings that
would compare with it, no valley enriched by so dig
nified a stream, so they named it Rio Grande.
Finding it thus unexpectedly, the Great River no
doubt had its effect upon the minds of the explorers,
who, notwithstanding repeated disappointments,
could yet flnd something in the hidden regions of an
unknown couiitry to stimulate their energies. In
stead therefore of turning back when this new bar
rier crossed their way, rafts were built and the entire
company carried to the other side. Parties were then
sent hither and thither to explore the country and to
inquire after the " yellow metal," but the interpret
ers gave them tlie old response — gold could be found
farther on in the mountains to the west. Still
deceived and suspected by the Indians, who onlj
wished to be rid of them, the Spaniards passed over
miles of that great Western country whicii remained
a wilderness long after their feet had penetrated its

70 EARLY EXPLORERS.
solitudes; occasionally finding a friendly chief, or a
rich section, where the confident De Soto would lay
plans for the establishment of a powerful and wealthy
colony. So amid repeated discouragements and
fruitless wanderings the expedition reached again the
" Father of Waters," whence afew months before they
had started forth reanimated.
De Soto, the ever buoyant leader, teeming with
new schemes and always ready to face difficulties,
now began to give way to an irresistible despondency.
All of his hopes were vanished, his health was under
mined by continued hardship, and those about him
were impatient to return to Cuba.
Seeing his further efforts unavailing, he decided
upon returning to the coast, and accordingly sent a
jiarty down the stream to make investigations; but
they could get no information, and the canebrakes
and other obstructions met with in the tortuous
descent delayed their progress.
A low fever began to waste his strength and he had
no power to resist it. So lay the Chevalier De Soto
upon his death-bed, broken in body and spirit, and un
conscious of the great part he was to play in the history
of the river, within sight of whose shores he expired.
On the twenty-flrst of May, 1542, he called those
who remained of his brave band about him, to give
them his last messages and to appoint his successor.
There has been much conjecture regarding the
death of De Soto, some historians expressing a con
viction of foul play, and bringing together circum
stantial evidence to confirm it; but whether or not
their surmises were correct must ever remain a mys
tery. After dark on the day of his death, the burial rites

BURIAL OF DE SOTO AT MIDNIGHT.

73 EARLY EXPLORERS.
were performed upon the shore of the river, but,
flnding that Indians visited the spot the next day, mak
ing strange signs, they feared to leave the remains,
lest they should be disinterred and subjected to dis
honor. The cacique who had accompanied them on
their journey also asked where the white chief was,
and they, thinking, if his death were known, some
assault would be made, replied that he had gone to
Heaven to confer with the Great Spirit, and would
soon return to lead them to the land of gold. At
midnight, under pretense of going to fish, they
exhumed the body, and, cutting a place for it in the
trunk of a live-oak, carried it out into the middle of
the stream, and there in silence lowered it to its last
resting place.
With no one of Don Hernando's force to stimulate
and encourage, the band was soon disorganized and
scattered in different directions; the greater number
starting toward the Southwest in search of a Spanish
colony said to have been founded upon the shores of
the Gulf. With the energy of desperate men they
launched their small fleet of rudely constructed boats
once more upon the open sea, sometimes overtaken by
storms and driven ashore, sometimes injured by rocks,
until at last they reached the flourishing little Mex
ican town of Panuco. Here they were received as
those returned from the dead, and were soon given
an opportunity to reach their home and friends.
Others tried to return to Cuba by another route, and
either miserably perished on the way or were never
heard from; so that of all the brilliant company
whicii sailed from Havana three years before, only
a remnant was left to tell the tale of suffering and
disappointment.

DISCOTERY OE THB MISSISSIPPI.

73

De Soto, whose enterprise had been looked upon
as a magnificent venture, destined, perhaps, to change
the financial condition of Spain, and to establish her
jurisdiction in a new and rich country, was now con
sidered as a man who had perished in a worthless
cause; whose early triumphs were shadowed by fail
ure. The planting of the cross upon the banks of the
great North American River had not attained the sig
niflcance which later chroniclers ascribed to it, and
investigation had not yet been sufficiently thorough to
attach importance to the event. Time, however,
has, in a measure, thrown light upon the page of
history, and has done justice to the Early Explorers,
not least among whom is the brave knight and
Christian gentleman, Don Hernando De Soto. To
him falls the honor of the discovery of the Missis
sippi — the noble " Father of Waters."

THE'lN'^IAf^CAPTIVE.

CHAPTER V.
MARQUETTE AND JOLIET.
^EFORE Columbus opened a new fleld for
exploration on the Western Continent,
Europe had been speculating upon a
possible route to Asia and the East
I" through untried channels. What lay
^beyond the great ocean, and whither
' would it lead the venturesome mariner,
were questions already being asked by
those progressive spirits, whose queries in all ages have
inspired the scientist and the explorer.
When, in the attempt to solve the important prob
lem, the shores of a new country were accidentally
discovered, the excitement which this created for a
time banished the original motive; but, as explora
tion began in turn to be directed toward the unknown
regions of America, zealous adventurers hoped to fiud
the fancied channel within its boundaries.
From the Canadian settlements along the Saint
Lawrence those daring expeditions were flrst projected
which began the spread of the Gospel among the
savage tribes of the West; and which, placing within
the knowledge of men untraveled territories, added
new glory to the name of France. This,. too, in the
face of continual encounters with the treacherous
natives, whose tomahawks had already dyed wood
land and valley with the white man's blood.
As early as 1658, two fur traders had reached the
(74)

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 75
western end of Lake Superior, where they were told
by the Sioux of a great river, whose valley their
Indian fancy had enveloped in mystery and romance.
Up and down its windings many a war and hunting
party, had passed in the centuries before the European
came, investing it with traditions which even now
cling to it, and which leave some faint trace of a pre
historic era. Of this the traders told upon their
return to Canada, exciting the greatest interest in the
western river, and reviving the old theory of an
international waterway. " The Indians had described
it; the Jesuits were eager to discover it," and to be
the first to plant the cross upon its shores. They
were very nearly deprived of the honor of first reaching
it, however, by the ambitious Sieur de La Salle, who
believed its course lay toward the Red Sea — by which
name the Gulf of California was then known — and
who was willing to put his entire fortune into an
expedition for its discovery; but by a complication of
events, his plans failed, and he returned without
having accomplished his purpose. By the time he
prepared for a second expedition, the Jesuits had
explored more than a thousand miles of the river, had
sown the first seeds of their religion along its shores,
and had become convinced that its course lay in the
direction of the Gulf of Mexico, and not, as was
supposed, in the direction of the Pacific.
The two men who had been chosen by the Canadian
officials to conduct this enterprise were singularly
fitted for the service, and in their different r61es of
explorer and missionary are admirable examples of
the courage and loyalty which characterized the early
pioneer. Father James Marquette, the elder of the two.

76 EARLY EXPLORERS.
was born in 1637, in the picturesque old cathedral
town of Laon, about ninety miles northeast of the
French capital. Here, under the gentle guidance of
his mother and the Church, he received that early
training which influenced him, at the age of seven
teen, to renounce the world and attach himself to the
order of the Jesuits.
Twelve years were spent in the quiet pursuits of
teaching and study, and then, eager to follow the
example of his patron saint, Francis Xavier, whose
life and death among the half -civilized nations of thc
Orient had deeply impressed him, he was given an
opportunity to follow his bent by being transferred
from the province of Champagne, which contained
no foreign mission, to that of France. In 1666, he
sailed for Canada, full of enthusiasm for the noble
cause which he had espoused, and buoyant with lite
and health. His inclination toward an active career
was doubtless inherited from his soldier and statesmen
ancestors, who were ever ready to defend their country
and their King, and whose loyal services Avere among
the proudest records of Laon. In this country the
name is also deserving of honor, not only for the
sake of the priest-explorer, but because of the enlist
ment of three Marquettes in the cause of American
independence. At the time of Marquette's arrival at Quebec, the
mission fields of the New World were greatly in need
of reinforcements, and the sight of this earnest
young Jesuit must have been encouraging to the good
Vicar Apostolic, Francis de Laval, who, since his
appointment as bishop of Petrea, had labored unceas
ingly to establish order in his outlying stations, and
who wished to extend the influence of the Church to

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 77
the more distant tribes. Filled with the zeal which
has ever characterized the members of the Society of
Jesus, he longed to penetrate the Great West him
self, and to plant the cross in its wildest haunts.
This wish he could not realize; but he Avas none the
less ambitious in appointing others to the work. He
soon sent Marquette with Father Druilletes to study
the Montagnais language, which was a key to the
others, that the young man might be prepared for
the mission of Tadoussac, which was flrst planned for
him; but his fleld was changed, and he was ordered
in 1668 to the Ottawa mission on Lake Superior.
Starting from Quebec, on the twenty-flrst of April,
with three companions, Marquette was joined by a
party of Nezperc^s, with whom he began the journey
up the Saint Lawrence and through the lakes; invoking
the protection of the Virgin Mary, whom he wor
shiped with the simple devotion of a child, and,
under her guidance, reaching his distant station of
Ste. Marie du Sault.
It is impossible to mistake the sincerity of Mar
quette's character. Possessed of an imaginative and
gentle nature, he gave all of his energies to his holy
calling, and combined in his own person the sturdy
qualities of the explorer with the ideal virtues of the
saint. In his lonely home on Lake Superior he
labored unceasingly, instructing flrst the Algonquins
at Ste. Marie's, and later, at Lapointe, the Hurons and
Ottawas, who had been driven westward by the
vengeful Iroquois; Avriting to his superior at Quebec
of the progress he was making, and the difficulties
which confronted him, and, with all his Christian
labors, learning the languages of the tribes who fre
quented the region of the northern lakes.

78 EARLY EXPLORERS.
Through the intercourse which frequent contact
with the visiting tribes thus brought about, Mar
quette first began to entertain the hope of some day
leaving his mission in other hands, and of carrying
out his favorite wish — to see the Mississippi, and to
convert the tribes upon its shores. While at Ste.
Marie's he had heard from the Sioux of the Great
River, and again at Saint Ignace — by which name the
mission at Michilimackinac was known — the Illinois
brought him word of the stream into which their
river found its way.
For a time it seemed that his wish could not be
realized. The Hurons and Ottawas became involved
in a quarrel with the Sioux, and were again obliged
to flee from their angry neighbors. Each tribe
sought a different retreat — the Ottawas going to the
Island of Manataulin followed by Father Louis Andr6,
while the Hurons took up their abode at Michili
mackinac, whither Father Marquette accompanied
them. To one less strong of purpose, this new field
would have been discouraging, but with unfailing
patience he erected a chapel and established a mission.
upon the bleak coast, which later became an impor
tant point for the Indians returning from their hunt
ing excursions. Meanwhile, events were culminating
at Quebec in such a way as to bring Marquette to a
speedy realization of his hopes.
It was the policy of the French to explore and
occupy the interior of the country as rapidly as
possible, and to this end the Governor was seeking
competent men to carry on the enterprise. The
influence of the Jesuits was strong at that time, and
therefore the choice of emissaries under their patron
age would naturally follow. Probably for this reason

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 79
the intendant. Talon, before leaving the colony,
recommended Louis Joliet for the discovery of the
Mississippi, although Joliet had proven himself worthy
of the project, and Avas a man of wide experience.
The choice of the one who was to accompany him
fell to Marquette, on account of his familiarity with
the Indians and their language, and of his knowledge
of the country, and also, it may be supposed, in
acknowledgment of his zealous labors in the remote
missions of the \Vest. To him the appointment meant
the crowning of his life work; the golden oppor
tunity for which he had waited; and if ambition for
his Order entered somewhat into his thoughts, it was
a pardonable ambition, in which self-glory bore a
very small, and the salvation of a heathen race a
very large, part.
As to Joliet, very little has been found concerning
his. early career beyond a few distinct facts, and the
detailed record of his life only begins with the expe
dition to the Mississippi in company with Marquette.
This omission in the old manuscripts has been a
source of regret to American historians, who would
have taken some pride in writing the biography of an
explorer born in their own country. 'To the efforts
of Mr. Shea we are indebted for nearly all of the
information that has been gained concerning him.
Born in 1645 in Quebec, then a great stronghold
of the Jesuits, he was early placed under their in
struction, and determined to become a priest. At
seventeen he received the minor orders, and at twenty-
one excited the admiration of his superiors by his
intelligent reasoning in the philosophical discussions
inaugurated by the sages of the colony. His real
province, though, was soon found to be widely different

80 EARLY EXPLORERS.
from that of his brother priests, and, becoming con
vinced that his inclinations were antagonistic to his
office, he soon renounced his vows and took up the
practical occupation of a fur trader, remaining, how
ever, partial to the order which he had left. His keen
intelligence and natural hardihood rendered him great
assistance in his roving tours over the country, and
he became valuable to the authorities in Quebec as
an explorer. Talon sent him, in 1609, with Pere, to
search for and report upon the copper mines of Lake
Superior; and although the expedition was a failure,
he had made careful maps of the route passed over,
and by them was able to offer suggestions to Pollier
and his companions, whom, with La Salle, he met at
the head of Lake Ontario, bent upon "exploring the
mystery of the great unknown River of the West."
La Salle and the priests soon separated; the latter
taking the route which Joliet had indicated, in order
to visit those tribes which he had described as being
sadly in need of their assistance, while the former,
prevented from carrying out his plans for reaching
the Mississippi, was obliged to postpone his under
taking and return to Canada.
As late as 1673 no important move had been made
toward the interesting interior, so that the appoint
ment in that year of Marquette and Joliet to search
out the unknown river meant a new era in the his
tory of American exploration.
Having accepted the responsibility of the expedi
tion, Joliet started in the autumn to meet his fellow
voyager, reaching the mission of Saint Ignace on the
festival of the Immaculate Conception, a time singu
larly happy to Marquette, who wrote in his journal:
"The day of the Immaculate Conception of the

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 81
Blessed Virgin Mary Avhom I have always invoked,
since I have been in this country, to obtain of God
the grace to be able to visit the nations on the River
Mississippi, was identically that on which M. Joliet
arrived with orders of the Comte de Frontenac, our
Gcvernor, and M. Talon, our intendant, to make this
discovery Avith me. I was the more enraptured at
this good news, as I saw my designs on the point of
being accomplished, and myself in the happy necessity
of exposing my life for the salvation of all these
nations, and particularly the Illinois, who had, when
I Avas at Lapointe du Saint Esprit, very earnestly
entreated me to carry the word of God to their
country." This entry, as indeed his entire journal,
shows the enthusiasm that burned in the soul of Mar
quette for the uplifting of the heathen nations among
Avhom he had chosen to pursue his life work.
As for Joliet, he had become greatly interested in
the River Mississippi while on his western hunting
excursions, during which he received glowing
accounts of it from the Indians. It was his ambi
tion to reach it, and, as he had promised Frontenac,
"to see its mouth"; yet notwithstanding the eager
ness of both men, it was deemed prudent to devote
the Avinter months to investigation, that " if the
enterprise were hazardous," as Marquette says, "it
should not be foolhardy." They accordingly ques
tioned all Indians who had any knowledge of the
region, and with information gathered from personal
observation mapped out the route, and the tribes
they were likely to encounter. In the spring their
plans were matured, and, devoutly placing themselves
under the protection of the " Blessed Virgin Immac
ulate," they began their journey on the seventeenth
6

83 EARLY EXPLORERS.
of May, letting their paddles " play joyously over a
part of Lake Huron and that of the Illinois — Lake
Michigan — into the Bay of the Fetid," according to
Marquette's sprightly account.
Following the northern shore of Lake Michigan
until it turns southward, they coasted on down to
the inlet now known as Green Bay; then into a small
tributary stream, reaching the village of the Menom-
onees, or "Wild Rice," Indians, where they were
seriously cautioned against going farther. In vain
these superstitious children of the forest sought to
dissuade their white brothers. Marquette paid no
heed to their stories, assuring them that he and the
Sieur Joliet could protect themselves, and that he
must not turn back Avhen there were souls to save.
At the head of Green Bay the travelers were Avel-
comed by Fathers Allouez and Dablon, who had been
laboring among the savage tribes of that region
for three years, in an attempt to convert them to
Christianity. Father Allouez had bravely entered the field in
1669 to found the mission of Saint Francis Xavier,
where he was joined the next year by his brother mis
sionary. Together they had visited the villages of
the Pottawattamies, Winnebagoes, Sacs, Mascoutins,
Miamis, Kickapoos, and Foxes, Avho lived in what
Dablon enthusiastically called " an earthly paradise,"
and from them they also heard of the Great River,
Avhich rose far in the north, and which they had
hoped some day to see. With the natural sympathy
of men of broad purpose and brave deeds, they now
rejoiced with their more fortunate brothers, who
were about to realize a kindred wish; and with every
encouragement saw them again on their way.

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 83
The voyagers now paddled into Fox River, flnding
it easy of access near its mouth, but farther up, where
they were obliged to get into the water and carry the
boats, its stones and pebbly bottom made their
passage difficult. Reading the narrative at this
point, one fancies that Father Marquette and his
sturdy companion must have enjoyed their journey
with the relish of a modern canoeist; forgetting for
the moment the perils of travel in the midst of savage
tribes, and only realizing the beauties about them.
For two hundred and sixty miles they followed this
stream, noticing as they passed along the changes of
scene, and stopping near the village of the Mas
coutins "to drink the mineral waters." At Mas
coutins itself, we have, through Marquette's journal,
a picturesque view of an Indian village, built on an
eminence overlooking the river; with a great cross
in the midst of its lodges, hung with colored skins
and bows and arrows as a thank offering to the great
Manitou, who had given them an abundance of game
during the winter, when a famine had been expected.
Soon after disembarking here, Marquette and
Joliet called the chiefs about them to explain the
reason of their journey, and to ask for guides, as
they would soon reach unfamiliar streams. Their
request was quickly granted, for the Miamis, who
belonged to the head tribe of the town, were very
friendly with the French.
The route beyond was through the unknown coun
try, for exploration had ceased at Mascoutins, and
the only information that had been gained concern
ing it was from Indian descriptions, with which con
siderable superstition had been mingled.
At the head of the Upper Fox River the Frenchmen

84 EARLY EXPLORERS.
left the waters on which they had come from Que
bec, and making a portage, with the assistance of
their Miami guides, were soon launched upon the
broad stream of the Wisconsin. Their anxiety to
reach the Great River now fllled their thoughts and
hurried their paddles, as they glided down the sandy
channel, past bar and island and forest-covered bank.
With feelings of mingled pride and gratitude the
brave men approached the goal of their hopes, and,
again quoting the simple but forcible words of the
missionary, they " safely entered the Mississippi on
the seventeenth of June, with a joy that he could not
express." Evidently, from Marquette's preliminary
description of the river, the Indians from whom he
received his information had a very good idea of its
features, for he speaks of the lakes from which it
had its source in the North.
It is a characteristic of the Indian that he has very
accurate ideas of location; often exerting his faculty
in this direction to a remarkable degree; aud if given
materials, will map out familiar localities with an
exactness which has often been of the greatest service
to his white brothers. In changing his abode to meet
the exigencies of summer and winter, this trait
becomes almost an instinct.
After having gone more than three hundred miles
without meeting anything more startling than the
timid denizens of forest and prairie, the travelers
were fllled with apprehension. At every turn, they
expected to come upon hostile natives or to be over
whelmed by them in ambush; and the greatest care
was taken to prevent surprise. In the evening a
small flre was made on the shore, where their food
was prepared; but this was left as darkness came on,

'^VK-^-t". J

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET DESCENDING THE MISSISSIPPI.

86 EARLY EXPLORERS.
and a safer shelter found in the boats moored far out
in the stream, from whose silent retreat a sentinel
always kept guard. In this way they pursued
their course for some time; but on the twenty-flfth of
Juue, while passing closely to the shore, footprints
were discovered on the sand, from which a path was
seen to extend over the prairie. This the explorers
determined to follow, leaving the boats in charge of
their men and Avarning them to be on the lookout.
Realizing the danger to which they were exposed,
Marquette and Joliet advanced in silence until within
sight of the Indian village whither the path led;
then, recommending themselves to the protection of
Heaven, made their presence known by crying out
with all their strength. At this the Indians rushed
from their cabins in consternation, but perceiving
the peaceful intent of the strangers, they made no
attempt to prevent tlieir approach. Four old men
were sent out to greet them, bearing aloft the calu
met — their universal emblem of good-will — and when
they had come within a few paces of the Frenchmen,
Marquette began the parley by asking the Indians
who they Avere. To the surprise and pleasure of
their visitors they replied that they were Illinois, and
in token of peace offered their pipes, at the same
time inviting the strangers to their village.
The reception which Marquette and his companion
received at the hands of this friendly tribe is strongly
characteristic of Indian customs, and of their fond
ness for a certain savage formality. Seeing the black
gown of the priest, which even then had become a
truce through the faithful exertions of the earlier
evangelists, the tAvo explorers were welcomed to the
village and escorted to the tent of one of the chiefs.

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 87
At his door that august personage appeared entirely
naked, that he might, according to his heathen
notions, show the greater respect for his guests; and
lifting his hands as if to shield his face, cried out,
"How bright is the sun, 0 Frenchmen, when you
come to visit us! " then, standing aside, he bade them
enter his tent. Within, a curious and silent assem
blage confronted them, from whose midst, now and
then, came the reassuring ejaculation, uttered in their
low guttural, " Well done, brothers, to visit us! "
After observing the ceremony of smoking the cal
umet, a universal token of peace among the Indians,
the Frenchmen were invited to visit the great sachem,
Avhose town lay a short distance beyond. A crowd of
curious Indians followed them, resorting to the most
ludicrous methods in order to get a good look at their
white brothers, and the scene described by Mar
quette is extremely amusing. " They threw them
selves on the grass by the wayside, they ran ahead,
they turned and Avalked back to see us again," he
writes, and " all this was done Avithout noise and with
marks of a great respect entertained for us."
Thus escorted, they made their way to the chief,
and Avere in turn welcomed by him with the usual
demonstrativeness of the race. He had, besides, a"
reason for being on good terms with the French, as the
Illinois nation Avere then the direct objects of Iroquois
Avrath — owing to a complicated rivalry in connection
Avith the fur trade — and were in need of an alli
ance with Canada. To be skeptical, therefore, the ex
tent of the chief's personal regard might be questioned.
He tried to dissuade his guests, in the name of all the
Illinois, from going farther on their perilous mission,
recounting the dangers to which they would be

88 EARLY EXPLORERS.
exposed, and putting forth all his Indian eloquence in
their interest; but Marquette answered that he feared
nothing, and that he would gladly risk his life in the
service of the Great Spirit; an assertion whicii he
believed beyond the comprehension of his hearers,
although he must have had abundant proof of their
own capacity for self -sacriflce and loyalty.
On the next day, at three o'clock in the afternoon,
Marquette and Joliet, having rejoined their men,
embarked in the presence of six hundred Illinois,
who had assembled to give them farewell.
Passing slowly down the river, the explorers
stopped occasionally to notice the rare plants and
fruits which grew upon the banks, and to enjoy the
beauties of a scene which even now enchants the
beholder. A surprise met them in their peaceful descent, and
turned their contemplation of nature to the arts of
man. On the high rocks which overhung the stream,
some original Indian had skillfully painted two fig
ures, which, from Marquette's account, must have
been the artist's conception of Match a Manitou, or
the Evil One. The terrible aspect of these monsters
made a deep impression upon the good priest, who
says they were so well painted that he could not
believe the work done by an Indian, and for whose
awe-inspiring effect he vouched by saying that "the
boldest Indian" dared not gaze too long upon them.
While still talking of the strange impression the
Manitous had exerted over them, the little party of
men were suddenly aware of another surprise in their
way. They were coming within the disturbing influ
ence of the muddy Missouri, Avhich, pouring its full
flood into the main stream, seemed almost to threaten

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 89
destruction to the frail fleet. Here the Indians
described the course of the great tributary of the
Mississippi, and suggested a route through its chan
nel by which the Gulf of California might be reached
indirectly; a course since found to be practicable by
topographical surveys. This suggestion aroused Mar
quette's love of adventure and missionary zeal, and
he wrote if God would give him strength he would
"not despair of one day making its discovery."
A few days later the mouth of the Ohio, or "beau
tiful river," Avas reached, upon whose banks dwelt
the peaceable Shawnees, fugitives from the unpro
voked assaults of the Iroquois.
The travelers noAv became exposed to the attacks of
the merciless mosquito, which proved to have no more
reverence for a black goAvii than for any other garb.
Marquette, appreciating the cleverness of the In
dians, describes their methods of defense in dealing
with the "little animals," as he calls them. "They
raise a scaffolding," he says, "the floor of which is
made of simple poles, and consequently a mere grate-
Avork to give passage to the smoke of a flre whicii
they build beneath. Tlie Indians sleep on the poles,
having pieces of bark stretched above them to keep
off the rain." By following this example as far as
their limited means would allow, the Frenchmen
improvised a screen out of their sails, and, thus pro
tected, kept their way down to the warmer cli
mates. Below the Ohio they came to an Indian village, and,
anticipating trouble, Marquette held up his safe
guard, the handsome calumet presented by the great
sachem of the Illinois. For an instant it seemed
that their friendly sign was disregarded, and Mar-

90 EARLY EXPLORERS.
quette's quick ear caught what he believed to be the
Avord of battle; but it proved to be an invitation to
land, which was gladly accepted by the fatigued and
famished travelers, Avho were later treated to buffalo-
steak, bear's oil, and Avhite plums.
Upon receiving the jo3rf ul assurance that they were
LOAV only ten days' journey from the Gulf, the party
again resumed their way, no longer content to glide
on at the will of the current, but with vigorous pad
dle-strokes pushing their canoes forward. Down
they sped between the solitary banks, for nearly three
hundred miles, until they reached the village of
Mitchigamea, where their right of way was for the
first time seriously questioned.
Seeing the men on shore running back and forth
brandishing their weapons, the terrified voyageurs
committed themselves to the protection of Heaven,
and with abated breath held the canoes in mid
stream while Marquette exposed the peaceful talis
man. Its magic effect appeared to fail with the
threatening Avarriors, who now pushed out into the
water in their canoes, or swam toward the fleet with
uplifted clubs. At this moment the older Avarriors
appeared upon the scene, and, noticing the peace-
pipe, averted the danger just Avlien the party had
given up hope. They asked the strangers ashore,
treated them with surprising hospitality, and invited
them to stay over night, an invitation Avhich was
accepted, as Marquette says, "not without some
uneasiness." Besides this, they found it difficult to
make each other understood, as the Indians did not
speak any of the languages Avith which Marquette
and Joliet were familiar; but at last resorting to
signs, and the aid of an Indian among them Avho

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 91
could speak a little Illinois, they told the Frenchmen
that they could obtain all the information they desired
at the next village below. Early the following morn
ing, therefore, they launched their canoes, and, with
some relief, started on their way toward Akamsea
— Arkansas — accompanied by ten of their late enter
tainers, and tlie Illinois interpreter.
When Avithin a mile and a half of their destination
two canoes were seen approaching, in one of whicii
stood a chief holding the calumet, and singing an In
dian song of peace. These preliminaries over, the fore
most canoe was turned about to guide the visitors to the
town. Here Marquette and Joliet were royally re
ceived, and as soon as ceremony alloAved, and the priest
had made his usual exhortation, eager inquiry was
made concerning the subject nearest their thoughts.
How many days' journey Avas it to the sea? and what
did the men of Akamsea know of the river beyond?
They were told that ten days' journey Avould bring
them to the Gulf, but that the tribes below were
unknown to them, since their enemies prevented any
intercourse. They also Avarned the Frenchmen against
exposing themselves to the attacks of their warlike
neighbors, from Avhose depredations they had so often
suffered. Soon after this friendly council the sachems came
together and deliberated upon the destruction of their
guests, whom they had seemed but a short time before
to regard Avith so much solicitude; but the chief be
came aware of their movements and prevented vio
lence; further proving his protection by dancing the
calumet and presenting the pipe to the priest at its
conclusion. Marquette and Joliet now met to discuss their

92 EARLY EXPLORERS.
plans. They had heard of the Mexicans through the
Indians, and believed it would be foolhardy to expose
themselves to capture by the former — who looked upon
their expedition as an encroachment — or to massacre
by the latter, by further following the river, whose
course they were now convinced lay toward the Gulf of
Mexico. They argued that their lives were of value to
their country, and that they had attained the object of
their journey — namely, the discovery of the Missis
sippi, and the location of its mouth. Accordingly,
they resolved to turn back, beginning the ascent of the
river on the seventeenth of July, 1673, and believing
themselves Avithin a short distance of the Gulf, al
though in reality it was some seven hundred miles
below. Retracing their course up the Illinois, they en
countered near its head the friendly Kaskaskias, who
begged Marquette to return to them, and instruct
thera in the Faith. This he jiromised to do, and,
taking leave of them, he and his companions were
escorted to Lake Michigan by a chief of the tiibe,
where they embarked for Green Bay. By September
the mission of Saint Francis Xavier Avas reached,
whence the expedition had started four months before.
Joliet now took leave of his felloAv traveler, and,
with the maps and papers relating to their recent
explorations, started for Quebec. Down through the
lakes he hurried to bear the tidings of the successful
enterprise to Frontenac and to seek his deserved
reward; but the good fortune which had smiled upon
him thus far now seemed suddenly to desert him.
Just above Montreal his boat was capsized, his papers
lost, and all that remained to hira was his life, which,
he wrote, he ardently desired to eraploy in any service

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 93
which his Excellency might please to direct; a loyal
offer, and worthy a more generous acknowledgment
than the Government deemed flt to give.
After carefully drawing up a report from memory,
Joliet again presented himself to the authorities at
Quebec; but the Mississippi was not then of so much
importance as Canadian affairs, and its exploration
was not met with the enthusiasra that it would have
received later.
Upon failing to procure a grant' from the King, of
the countries which he had visited, Joliet next turned
his attention to the Indian trade on Hudson Bay, and
in this interest left Quebec in 1679. Here he found
the English in undisturbed possession, and reported
the case to the Canadian officials, which resulted in
the establishment of competitive trading stations for
the purpose of dispossessing the foreign rivals. This
service Avas rewarded, and later Joliet received a grant
of the Island of Anticosti, in consideration of his
services on the Mississippi. Again in 1694, after
exploring the coast of Labrabor, in the employ of a
company interested in the whale and seal flsheries
there, he was made royal pilot for the St. Lawrence
and hydrographer at Quebec. Thus, rich in honors,
the great explorer of the Mississippi passed his latter
years, and was buried on one of his own Islands of
Mignan, on the coast of Labrador, probably in 1700.
His fellow traveler had, meanwhile, met his death in
the lonely forests of Michigan, twelve hundred miles
away. In fact, when the expedition to the Mississippi
returned to Green Bay, Marquette was already suffer
ing from the malady which ultimately killed hira,
and which he had contracted from the exposure and
hardships of the journey.

94 EARLY EXPLORERS.
During the autumn and winter he stayed at the
mission to gain strength for his return to Kaskaskia,
where he hoped to found the mission of the Immacu
late Conception, and by October of the following
year started out with a band of Illinois and Potta
wattamies and tAVO Frenchmen, Pierre Porteret and
Jacques  , to fulfill his promise to the Illinois.
The party paddled up the Bay to the northern end,
and thence by portage gained Lake Michigan, which
they reached in the stormy month of November.
Cautiously skirting its Avestern shore, they pushed
their canoes into the Chicago River a month later,
where Marquette again becarae prostrated, and was
obliged to postpone his visit to Kaskaskia till the fol
lowing spring. The Indians went on, but Pierre and
Jacques built a sraall hut on the river bank, where
game was abundant, and there they guarded their
master till the snows were gone and the stream cleared
of ice.
Through all the bitterness of this winter in the
wilderness Marquette suffered patiently the ravages
of disease, but at last, despairing of his life, and
unwilling to abandon his darling wish, he begged his
companions to perform with him a novina, or nine
days' devotion to the Virgin. At the end of this
time he believed their prayers were answered, and by
the thirtieth of March again undertook to reach
Kaskaskia. The route thither was familiar to Mar
quette and one of his men, who had passed over it on
their return to Green Bay; and, excepting the incon
venience caused by the freshets and the priest's
physical condition, the journey was comparatively
easy. When the party reached Kaskaskia the greatest joy

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 95
was manifested, and Marquette was urged to stay with
the people and be their father; but he knew his days
were numbered, and that Avhat he had to do must be
done quickly. He passed from lodge to lodge explain
ing the mysteries of his religion, and persuading his
hearers by his own magnetic earnestness; and then,
that he might more deeply influence their impres
sionable natures, called thera to a great council in the
open fields, where he made a final exhortation.
Some four thousand souls listened to this appeal and
received the first instruction in the Faith, which Avas
kept alive there by Marquette's successors in the
mission field of his founding.
Now, satisfied that he had accomplished his pur
pose, and anxious to reach again the station of
Michilimackinac, Marquette bade farewell to his
Illinois children and started for Lake Michigan. On
its waters the canoe was once raore launched, in the
presence of a faithful band which had followed him
thither. Along the eastern border of the lake the solitary
boat sped, urged on by the steady paddle strokes of
Pierre and Jacques, who, seeing the emaciated form
and failing strength of their dying master, attempted
to reach Saint Ignace before it was too late.
Their exertions were in vain. On the nineteenth
of May, when they were yet many days' journey from
their destination, Marquette, feeling his tirae was
come, asked to be taken ashore. His companions,
grief-stricken and disappointed, begged permission to
hurry on to Michilimackinac; but Marquette could
not mistake the approach of death, and Avith gentle
firmness insisted that they stop at a place which he
had pointed erat, that he might be buried there. It

96 EARLY EXPLORERS.
was on the sloping bank of a small stream which
poured its waters into the great lake from the east.
Here the two raen built a rude shelter of bark and
laid the dying priest, receiving at his hands the sac-
raraent of penitence and making their last confession.
Marquette in turn asked their forgiveness for the
trouble he had caused, them, and told them how
grateful he was to be permitted to die as he had
always wished, alone in the wilderness after the man
ner of Saint Francis Xavier. Then seeing that his
friends were weary, he persuaded them to rest, telling
tbem he would call when he needed them. Shortly
after, they heard a feeble voice, and, overwhelmed with
sadness, answered its summons. He asked that the
crucifix which he had worn be held over him, and,
placing his eyes on the sacred emblem, expired.
The next year, 1676, a hunting party of Kiskakon
Ottawas, whom the priest had once instructed, on
passing his grave, reverently opened it, and, caring for
the remains after their custom, bore them to Saint
Esprit with all the ceremony observed at the funerals
of their great chiefs; and so, honored by those for
whom he had given his best energies, the priest-
explorer found his flnal resting place.
What Marquette accomplished as a missionary will
be variously estimated, but what he and his fellow
voyager Joliet accomplished in the field of early
exploration can never be overestimated. They hold a
place unchallenged in the history of the Mississippi,
and honored by those who appreciate the heralds of
civilization.

CHAPTER VI.
ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE.
.0 one whose splendid ambition and un
failing patriotism won for him in his
day only disappointment and the death
blow of the assassin, impartial Time
has meted out his sure reward; and the
La Salle of two centuries ago, now
stands a giant among the great explor
ers. He was one of those countless
heralds Avho proclaimed the wonders of a New World;
but pre-eminently alone in the brilliant planning
which sought to make the "New France" an added
kingdom to the Old. Because then, he was not only
the explorer but the raan of thought, he has gained a
loftier place araong his fellows, and a truer claim to
renown. As a school-boy of Rouen, where he was born in
1643, the unusual traits of the later man began to
attract the attention of his family, and he was given
an education in accordance with the liberality of the
Caveliers and his own capabilities; but the Order of
the Jesuits, which had earlier appealed to him,
became, as he reached manhood, an unbearable
restraint; and throwing ofl the irksome bonds — to
gether with his inheritance, which, according to a
law of the Order, must be forfeited — the free-spirited
La Salle obeyed his mastering impulse and sailed in
1666 for Canada.
7 (97)

98 EARLY EXPLORERS.
During the quiet years in France, when all his nat
ural love of action was confined within the chambers
of his fertile brain, La Salle acquired his aptitude for
great schemes; but conceiving them without the
power of putting them into effect gave him also that
fatal lack of attention to detail which resulted in many
an ultimate defeat. His broad mind could take in
with quick perception vast enterprises of commerce
and colonization in America, but repeated reverses
and an untimely death prevented him from seeing
their successful issue. With such abilities Robert de
La Salle entered the attractive boundaries of the New
World. His elder brother, Abb6 Jean Cavelier, of the
Seminary of Saint Sulpice, belonged to an influential
corporation Avliich OAvned Montreal and a widespread-
ing tract along the Saint Lawrence; and it was perhaps
due to his influence that La Salle Avas offered gratui
tously, soon after his arrival, a large property about
nine railes above the city for a settlement. The
object of the priests in thus dealing out their lands
was to establish a line of outposts along the river in
front of their island, as a defense against Iroquois
incursions. For its new proprietor the exposed position of this
property had no terrors. He immediately began the
building of his embryo village, hurrying up the pali
sades in anticipation of a surprise from the Indians,
and marking out the twenty-acre farms beyond the
defenses, which were offered on easy terms to those
who would join his enterprise; Avhile with the care of
his new seigniory he threw himself into the study of
Indian languages with a zeal Avhich betokened design.
From time to time straggling red raen Avere
admitted within the palisade to dispose of furs or to

ROBERT CATELIER DB LA SALLE. 99
talk with the white chief; and as La Salle had a great
infiuence over them, he heard many a story of the
unknown lands to the west, and of the river that
reached to the sea. The old idea of a route to China
and Japan suggested itself to him and aroused his
ambition. With characteristic dispatch, he went to
Quebec to confer with the Governor, obtaining
authority to carry on an expedition to the Great
River, but no money to aid the enterprise. This
lack of co-operation in funds did not deter the young
explorer, however. He soon persuaded Queylus, the
Superior of Saint Sulpice, to buy back part of his lands
beyond Montreal, and the rest he was able to sell to
a certain Jean Milot. With this he bought the
necessary equipments and secured his men.
Some time before this the Seminary had decided to
send missionaries to the more western tribes, that the
Jesuits might not overreach thein in christianizing
the heathen nations of the New World. Nor was this
all. They saw that the rival Order, in penetrating
the remote regions of the Northwest, would gain a
foothold there which it would be difficult to sup
plant. For these reasons an expedition had been
planned by them, and the leadership given to Dollier
de Casson, a priest of Saint Sulpice.
Greatly to La Salle's annoyance, the Governor urged
that Dollier join him in the exploration of the Mis
sissippi, and as the young man was somewhat
indebted to the Seminary and to Courcelles, he could
offer no protest. Consequently, on the sixth of July,
1669, the two parties left the little settlement beyond
Montreal, to begin the difficult ascent of the Upper
Saint Lawrence. A party of Seneca Iroquois took the
lead, and were to guide the expedition to the Ohio,

100 EAELY EXPLORERS.
which they had told La Salle reached to the sea; but
instead of going directly to the river according to
agreement, the dissimulating Indians went to their
own village near the Genesee; telling the white men
they would find other guides there. La Salle was not
sufficiently familiar with the Iroquois language to
make a personal appeal, and the expedition was
delayed; but there happened to be an Indian from a
neighboring tribe present at the time, who offered
to take the party to his owu village, promising to find
some one there to act as guide. This offer was
accepted, and again the march was resumed. A
Shawnee prisoner was at last secured, Avho said he
could reach the Ohio in six Aveeks; but just as prep
arations were being made to start out, news came
that two Frenchmen had arrived at the next village.
They proved to be Joliet and P6r6, recently sent by
Talon to look for the copper mines of Lake Superior.
Joliet had mapped out the route he had taken, and,
giving Dollier a duplicate of this, told him of the
tribes about the upper lakes who were sadly in need
of spiritual guidance. The priest immediately re
solved to follow these suggestions, although La Salle
reminded him that the Jesuits were already in the
field; but Dollier was not to be dissuaded, and he be
lieved, moreover, that this change of plan would not
interfere Avith the intended exploration of the Mis
sissippi. La Salle, unwilling to follow this lead,
and determined to carry out his own plans, in his
own way, no doubt urged his weak physical condition
as a pretext for separating from the Sulpitians. At
any rate, Dollier soon started on his fruitless mission
northward, while La Salle remained behind in the
Indian village.

feOBEBi caTElier de la saLle. 101
Frora all that has been found relating to the next
two years, it is evident that La Salle Avas unable to
reach the Mississippi; but during that time he un
doubtedly made the discovery of the Ohio, and carried
on extensive explorations in other quarters. Unfor
tunately, the only record that remains of this part of
his career is an anonymous manuscript of somewhat
doubtful accuracy, supposed to have been written
from conversations with La Salle himself, and from
which Francis Parkman, with careful explanations,
has made a few extracts in his " Discovery of the
Great West." These relate simply to his explorations
on the Ohio and Illinois rivers, and to his voyage
through the lakes. Reference is also raade to the
statement that La Salle, in descending the Illinois,
reached a river corresponding in description to the
Mississippi, which he is said to have followed as far
as the thirty-sixth degree of latitude, becoming con
vinced that it emptied into the Gulf of Mexico; and
which, the anonymous writer continues, he intended
to further explore when equipped in such a way as to
make it practicable. This seems to admit of ques
tion. If La Salle had made such a discovery, it is
not likely that he would have remained silent in
regard to it when Frontenac appointed Joliet for that
service; nor that, being on the most friendly terms
with the Governor, he should have made no immediate
mention of it.
This doubtful period over. La Salle again emerges
into the full light of authentic history, and we flnd
him at Quebec discussing his plans with Frontenac.
These plans were concerning the settlement of the
Great West, and the development of commerce along
the Mississippi. He saw that delay would be fatal to

103 ISAtiLY EXPtOREfeS.
the interests of France, and he therefore made arrange
ments to confer with the King that he might obtain
his approval and aid. Frontenac, fully in sympathy
with his projects, was unable to give more than his
hearty recommendation; but this had its value, and
La Salle started for France bearing the most flatter
ing letters from him.
Once at court, there was no difficulty in gaining
attention, and Louis, recognizing the ability and zeal
of his young petitioner, soon became interested in his
schemes. La Salle returned to Canada Avith a patent
of nobility in consideration of recent explorations,
and with a grant of a fort at the head of Lake
Ontario which he afterward named for Frontenac,
and which, by its favorable position for the fur trade,
would aid him in many an enterprise.
Carefully guarding every interest. La Salle now
began to make improvements upon the fort, replac
ing Frontenac's hurriedly constructed buildings and
palisades with stone, and having a few heavy boats
built; for where the light Indian canoe had formerly
been a convenience in making the frequent journeys
up and down the river and through the lakes, when
very little freight was carried, larger craft would
now be indispensable. This done. La Salle again went
to France to report to the minister and to receive a
further sanction to his explorations. These he in
tended to prosecute on the Mississippi with a vicAV to
opening a direct route to France; thus to throw into
her ports the monopoly of furs furnished by the great
western hunting grounds of America, and to found a
chain of commercial villages along its banks. He
asked, besides, the privilege of holding exclusive right
to the trade in buffalo skins. These petitions were

KOBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 103
favoraoly received by Colbert, and in addition large
sums of money were advanced by his relatives. Men
were engaged and the necessary supplies procured,
and with these. La Salle again returned to Canada.
On the way over he became acquainted with his new
lieutenant, Henri de Tonty, who had been recom
mended to him during his brief stay in France, by the
Prince de Conti, as a man in every respect Avorthy of
confldence. La Salle, with keen discrimination, soon
recognized this, and, himself possessed of rare per
sonal qualities, easily made hira his friend. He wrote
back to the Prince extolling Tonty's "honorable
character and amiable disposition," and referred to
his hardihood in- starting out to begin a fort at
Niagara at a season when any but him would have
hesitated. The building of this fort was a triumph for La
Salle, and he had made no small effort toward its
accomplishment. To this end he had encouraged La
Motte to negotiate with the chief of the Senecas.
His lieutenant was, in a measure, successful; but
La Salle, understanding the value of the full a^^d
friendly approval of the Iroquois, and confldent of
securing a personal favor, had stopped on his way up
from Fort Frontenac to ratify La Motte's transac
tions, and had gained permission from the reluctant
Indians to build a vessel above the falls for naviga
tion on the upper lakes. An unimpeded way to suc
cess was now opened, and La Salle hastened to for
mulate his plans. Misfortune, however, met hira at
the very start. When he and Tonty reached the gar
rison at Niagara, they found that the boat bringing
supplies, on which they had come part of the way,
had been wrecked within nine or ten leagues of its

104 EARLY EXPLORERS.
destination and all the provisions lost, the crew being
able to save only the anchor and cables for the new
vessel. This loss placed La Salle in an unpleasant predica
ment. Hit' men, but half-hearted in their devotion
to his interest, and disaffected by his enemies, were
ready to desert upon the slightest provocation. At
this crisis he iramediately prepared to return to Fort
Frontenac for provisions, leaving Tonty in command,
and relying upon his Mohican hunter to supply the
men with game during his absence. Nothing daunted,
he began the two hundred and flfty mile journey over
the midwinter snows on foot, only to find, upon
reaching the fort, that the greater share of his prop
erty had been seized by over-anxious creditors, and his
reputation injured by jealous enemies; but he still
had friends, and these again came to his assistance.
When at last he reached Niagara, after an absence of
nearly six months, he found his new boat, the
"Griffin," flnished, and his men, under Tonty's
guardianship, still committed to his service. The
comraander returned, affairs were quickly arranged at
the fort, the "Griffin" was towed up stream, andthe
entire company boarded her on the seventh of August,
1679; sang the Te Deum, flred a salute, and set the
sails for the eventful voyage across Lake Erie, whose
waters had never before borne more than the fairy
weight of an Indian canoe. Reaching the strait of
Detroit, they passed between the forest-fringed banks
and then out into the sparkling lake, which, in
crossing, they called Sainte Claire; moving again
through the narrowed outlet until it brought them
upon the broad expanse of Lake Huron.
When the boat was well under way, promising a

tl6BERT CATELIEIi DB LA SaLlS. 105
speedy journey to Michilimackinac, a furious gale
overtook her, and for a time caused the greatest excite
ment among her passengers. La Salle encouraged
the men to ask the aid of Heaven, and "all fell to
their prayers, but the godless pilot, who was loud in
complaint against his comraander for having brought
him, after the honor he had Avon on the ocean,
to drown at last ignominiously in fresh water."
With the abating of the tempest the clamor ceased,
and the "Griffin" again raoved forward over the
becalraed lake.
Fresh trouble awaited La Salle at Saint Ignace. He
found that the advance party which he had sent on to
trade for hira had deserted, and that the aid which he
had expected from this quarter was not to be realized.
He Avas able to secure a small cargo of furs, and this
he sent back to satisfy his creditors in Canada, charg
ing the pilot to return as soon as he had fulfllled the
commission, and meet hira at the mouth of the Saint
Joseph. Meanwhile, La Salle, with fourteen men
and four canoes, heavily laden, started down Lake
Michigan toward the rendezvous, every mile of the
way being contested by the stormy elements. When
at last they reached the River Saint Joseph, the men,
half-starved and weary, urged that the expedition
move on to the village of the Illinois, where they
would flnd shelter and provisions; but La Salle had
told Tonty to meet him at this place after his journey
to Saint Mary's, and therefore he would not leave.
Instead, he put the men to work on a fort to divert
their minds, and stolidly waited. At the end of three
weeks Tonty came, bringing only half his men, the
others having stopped by the way for food and rest.
Soon afterward they came up with the party, and on

EARLY MAP OF THE ILLINOIS.

RofiERT Cavelier de la salle. 107
the third of December all started up the Saint
Joseph; La Salle's Mohican had remained a little behind
the others, and when the expedition had reached the
point where the portage was supposed to be, they
were unable to discover it. La Salle went ashore to
search for it, and while wandering through the
forest lost his way. Night came and with it a light
snow. Hurrying forward, with the hope of coming
upon his party, he reached the river and fired his
gun as a signal. Receiving no answer, he continued
along the shore, where he saw a short distance beyond
a fire in the brush. Supposing this to be the bivouac
of his men he hastened toward it, but found to his
surprise that the spot was deserted. Near the fire
was a couch of dry grass, still warm, and bearing the
impress of a recent occupant, but no answer came to
his call although he used all of the Indian languages
at his command. To follow Parkman's description,
"La Salle then, with admirable coolness, took posses
sion of the quarters he had found, shouting to their
invisible proprietor that he was about to sleep in his
bed; piled a barricade of bushes around the spot,
rekindled the dying flre, warmed his benumbed hands,
stretched himself on the dry grass, and slept undis
turbed till morning." When he reached his party
the Mohican had alieady found the portage, and
preparations were immediately begun to transport the
baggage to the Kankakee. On this stream they
began the journey down to the Illinois, reaching at
last the long-wished-for lodges where they were to
flnd food and shelter.
The Indians had not yet returned from the winter's
hunt, and the encampment was deserted, but La

108 EAfeLY EXPLORERS.
Salle's men found the pits in which the provisions
were stored, and from these a quantity of corn Avas
taken, the intention being to meet the Indians on
their return and recompense them for their intru
sion. Having thus satisfied their hunger, the party
pushed forward, reaching Peoria Lake on the third
of January, 1680. Just below here they came in
sight of the Illinois camp. La Salle had been warned
by the Outagamies whom he met on Lake Michigan
to beAvare of these, as they were angered with the
French, belicA-ing they had incited the Iroquois
against them. He had also to appease them for the
raid upon their corn-pits. It was therefore necessary
to use the utmost caution in approaching them. The
canoes were put in line, the men Avere told to drop
the oars and take up their weapons, and thus formid
ably the little fiotilla SAvept down to meet friend
or foe. La Salle, closely followed by his men, leaped
from his boat into the midst of the astonished
Indians, who, convinced of his friendliness, soon laid
aside their weapons. With his usual fearlessness he
then harangued thera, telling them if they Avould
permit him to build a fort in their country as a defense
against the Iroquois, that he would join them in
resisting those enemies in case of attack. Explana
tions were made and payment offered for the corn,
and, while asking favors, the intrepid La Salle
appeared to be conferring benefits. The Illinois
received hisblandishraentsand threats as he intended
they should, and the conference ended favorably for
the Frenchraen.
That sarae night, however, a Mascoutin chief, insti
gated by La Salle's eneraies, came to the camp to
tell the Indians in solemn council that their visitors

ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 109
were friends of the Iroquois, now on their way to the
tribes beyond the Mississippi, whora they iq^tended to
stir up against the Illinois; and that if the Illinois
wished to protect themselves they would soon be rid
of them. La Salle Avas informed of the proceedings
by a chief whose friendship he had Avon by generous
gifts, and was thus enabled to meet the excuses which
the Indians offered on the following afternoon. The
chiefs resorted to a very cunning method, as they
thought, to dissuade the Frenchmen from going to
the Great River, telling them of terrible monsters,
Avhirlpools, and rapids, in their way, but La Salle
paid no heed to these fabrications, soon convincing
the Indians of the friendliness of his visit. Some of
his men fell into the snare laid for them, and, terrifled
by the lies invented to deceive them, deserted during
the night, rather than risk the fancied dangers.
La Salle now decided to pass the remainder of
the winter in the Illinois country, that he might
build a fort there, and be prepared for explo
ration on the Mississippi in the spring. He se
lected a place of considerable strength, on a hill a short
distance back from the river, and here palisades were
thrown up and winter quarters provided. La Salle
and Tonty occupied a plank cabin in the center of the
inclosure, the priests were in another, and the men
had their huts at the four angles. Thus sheltered
from the cold, and protected from any sudden out
break of the Indians, the isolated party Avaited for the
snows to disappear.
As an expression of his sorrow at the continued round
of disappointments which had followed him, La Salle
gave this fort the name of Crfive-coeur. Here circum
stances again obliged him to undertake a journey to

110 EARLY EXPLORERS.
Fort Frontenac, for nothing had been heard from the
" Griffin "- since she had left Michilimackinac, and it
was now impossible to hope for her return. In her
loss, the explorer once more saw his plans defeated,
for she was to have brought the chains and anchor for
the new vessel in which he intended to make his
journey down the Mississippi, and the provisions nec
essary to assure tlie services of his men. There was
no alternative; La Salle must either return to Fort
Frontenac or risk the failure of his enterprise. To
him the latter course was impossible, and he quickly
prepared for the perilous journey, seeing half the
work done on the vessel before starting, lest the men
should attempt to desert during his absence or refuse
to undertake its building. He also commissioned
Hennepin, much against the wishes of the priest, to
take two men and explore the Illinois to its mouth,
and thence to the headAvaters of the Mississippi — a
circumstance which has a significance; for, if La
Salle was not aware of the previous expedition of
Marquette and Joliet, as some writers affirm, it is not
probable that he would have authorized Hennepin to
make this journey; for, in that case, the honor of the
discovery would be lost to him. Nor is it probable
that, being, as he knew, Avithin easy distance of the
Great River, he should have betrayed so little eager
ness to reach it. In fact, corroborative evidence
seems to show, Avithout a doubt, that La Salle was
perfectly familiar with the explorations of his prede
cessors, and that his aira was not to search out an
unknown river, but to complete the work begun in
1673.

OHAPTER VII.
LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI.
^T was just on the verge of spring, 1681,
when the streams were too full of ice
to allow the passage of a canoe, and
the ground too unstable for snow-shoes,
that La Salle, with his Mohican and
four others, began the trying journey
from Fort Ordve-cceur, on the Illinois,
to Canada — the most arduous ever made by French
men in America.
Through the dismal forests and over treacherous
swamps the men made their way, braving the dangers
of the wilderness and sturdily enduring the ills which
exposure and hardship brought upon them. On
Easter Monday they reached the Falls of Niagara,
where La Salle learned that the "Griffin" was indeed
lost; that a ship laden with valuable supplies coming to
him from Prance had foundered at the mouth of the
Saint Lawrence, and that twenty men sent to his assist
ance from Europe had in one way or another become
dispersed through the machinations of his enemies.
At Fort Frontenac he found only stronger evidence of
disaster; but pressing on to Montreal he succeeded in
making good his losses and in convincing those who
attempted to thwart him that he was superior to their
efforts. In starting out with his fresh supplies for the Illi
nois country, the customary halt was made at the
(iii>

112 EARLY EXPLORERS.
fort, and here the unhappy news from Tonty awaited
him. His men, taking advantage of the temporary
absence of his lieutenant, had mutinied, destroyed
Fort Cr6ve-coeur, and taking everything that was
available had gone on to Fort Miami on the Saint
Joseph to wage a similar destruction. At Michili
mackinac they had seized a quantity of furs belong
ing to La Salle, and again at Niagara had continued
their robberies. Word was brought that they even
intended to kill their late leader, and were on their
way to carry out their sinister purpose; but such
reverses only tended to strengthen La Salle's deter
mination and powers of endurance. He quickly and
effectually dealt with the deserters, putting them into
custody Avhere they were to await the arrival of
Frontenac, while he prepared to return to the Illinois
country for the relief of Tonty and those who had
remained with him. This time he took a new route,
by way of the Humber, Lake Simcoe, the Severn and
Georgian Bay, and thence to Michilimackinac; leav
ing his lieutenant La Forest at the latter place with
half the men to attend to his business affairs, while he
hurried southward. By chance Tonty and Father
Membr^ were at the same time retreating from the
dangerous battle-ground of the Iroquois and Illinois,
and making their way to the mission at Green Bay.
Having left a sraall detachment on the Saint Joseph
to wait for La Forest, La Salle anxiously pressed
on to the Illinois, there to find the ghastly relics of
war; and instead of the fiourishing village which he
had passed in the spring, desolated lodges and the hor
rid evidences of Indian vengeance. The thought of
what might have befallen his friend gave him no
rest, and with gloomy forebodings he continued his

LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 113
way down to the mouth of the river, finding all
along the abandoned camp-fires of the Illinois in
retreat, with those of their pursuers on the opposite
bank, but no traces of those he sought. It Avas at
this unfortunate moment that La Salle saw for the
first time the Great River toward which his mind's
eye had so often turned, and with whose future his
thoughts had long been occupied. Even then he
might have followed it to the sea, putting aside the
search for his friends, and relying upon the support
of the few men who had accompanied him to its
shores, and who offered to make the journey with
him; but he was too deeply concerned about Tonty,
and too well satisfled with certain other plans to
obey the temporary impulse, and therefore deter
mined to wait. On the return to the Saint Joseph
some traces were found of the recent passage of white
men, which assured La Salle that Tonty had escaped
the Iroquois massacre; and he was further gratified
to find that during his absence the men at Fort Mi
ami had repaired the injuries done by the deserters
and had cleared a large tract of land for cultivation.
Thus favored, he prepared to remain at the fort for
the winter, in order to carry out his great scheme of
alliance among the western tribes which the recent
Iroquois invasion had made possible. It was his
idea to conciliate the small tribes who had separated
on account of slight grievances, and ally them, with
the Illinois, to the French; nominally to resist their
comraon enemy the Iroquois, but really to establish
French interests and secure the western trade in furs.
Having heard in the course of his travels of the
safety of Tonty, La Salle sent La Forest on to Mich
ilimackinac to meet him and to await his own arrival
8

114 EARLY EXPLORERS.
there; while he, in the meantime, continued his
diplomatic mission among the red men. In these
negotiations his remarkable influence with the Indi
ans gave him the advantage, and while he intimi
dated, persuaded and flattered, they regarded him
with mingled admiration and fear. He accomplished
all that he had desired, and then hastened to Michili
mackinac, where in the joy of meeting Tonty the
habitual reserve of his calm nature for once broke its
bonds. Tonty, and Father Membr^ who had been with him,
had had a very trying and dangerous experience after
leaving Fort Cr6ve-coeur. They had gone up the Illi
nois together to examine a hill which La Salle had
suggested as a strong place in case of necessity, and
during their absence the men at the fort deserted
and the Iroquois war-party approached almost simul
taneously. The fancied presence of Frenchmen
among the latter, due to the caprice of two Iroquois
chiefs who had arrayed themselves in a few articles
of European dress, placed Tonty and his companions
in a delicate position Avith the Illinois, who suspected
that they were being betrayed. The situation re
quired the utmost caution. Tonty stoutly denied
the charge made against his countrymen, and to
prove his honesty of design, offered to negotiate with
the enemy. This offer was accepted Avitli some sus
picion, but the volunteer was given a belt of wampum
as a truce, and accompanied by Boisrondet and two
others, started toward the band of already frenzied
savages. As he came within dangerous range of their
arrows and saw that hostilities were not suspended,
he sent his companions back, and holding up the
pacific symbol advanced alone.

LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 115
Once in their midst a curious crowd of half-mad
dened Iroquois pressed about the mediator, and a
young warrior among them, believing him to be an
Illinois, thrust a knife deep into his side; but one of
the chiefs, calling attention to Tonty's unpierced
ears, saved him from further molestation, and
Avrapped a wampura belt over the wound to stop the
flow of blood.
Having done all he could to awe the invaders and
secure an advantage for the Illinois, Tonty returned
half-fainting, with his peaceful messages; but the
wary Iroquois were not thus easily to be disposed of.
Under the guise of friendship they approached the
Illinois village, taking in with quick comprehension
the real force of their adversaries, and contemptu
ously provoking a quarrel.
The position of the Frenchmen soon became dan
gerous. Tonty saw that the Illinois could not resist their
enemies, and had done all he could to aid them;
while they too began to realize the situation and
were leaving the fleld. At this point he and his
companions prudently decided to retire; and finding
an old canoe, the little party embarked in it and qui
etly ascended the river. On the way the boat was
upset, and while a halt was made to repair it Father
Ribourde, who was one of the number, wandered
away and was never again seen. Boisrondet also be
came lost in the forest, but escaped the lurking red
skins and Avas able to find his way back. At the
head of the Illinois the canoe entirely gave out, and
from there on to Green Bay the three refugees Avere
obliged to make their way on foot, finding sustenance
in herbs and roots which they dug up as they went

116 EARLY EXPLORERS.
along. By the latter part of Noveraber they reached
the town of a friendly Pottawattamie chief who had
in several instances shown himself favorable to the
French, and whose assertion that he knew but three
great captains in the world, Frontenac, La Salle and
himself, went far to prove his good-will.
Early the f oUoAving spring they started for Michili
mackinac, and there waited for La Salle.
That indefatigable traveler was now preparing to
return a third time to Fort Frontenac to straighten the
tangled thread of his affairs, to quiet his creditors, and
to test again the unfailing friendship of Frontenac.
This time, instead of choosing a party entirely of
white men, whose good faith he had found wanting
in raany a bitter experience, lie secured eighteen In
dians from the Abenaki and Mohican tribes, with
the extra encumbrance of ten squaws whom the
Indians insisted upon taking along to do camp work.
Besides these there were twenty-three Frenchmen
and three papooses, and with this strange following
La Salle again undertook the exploration of the Mis
sissippi. On the fourth of January, 1683, he reached
the Chicago River, where he found Tonty, Father
Membr6 and a small party waiting with sledges.
Three weeks later they made the portage to the Illi
nois, passed down the river on the ice, and found the
familiar village, which had been re-inhabited since
the late invasion, entirely deserted, the Indians hav
ing gone down to the old site of Fort CrSve-cceur on
Peoria Lake for the winter. At this point the river
was, as usual, open, and the canoes were put into the
water, which quickly carried them down to the Mis
sissippi. There they were delayed a week by floating
ice; but at last on the thirteenth of February were

tA ^ALtt! JBXPtOteES THE tOWilJl MtSSlSSltPI. Il7
able to begin the descent of the river, not as La Salle
had once hoped, Avith spread sail and imposing cere
mony, but with a modest flotilla of Indian canoes.
Upon passing the Missouri Father Membr^ wrote that
the water was "hardly drinkable," an expression
which might amuse those familiar with the muddy
torrent, and Avho know the condition of the main
stream even before it is adulterated by its boisterous
tributary. Beyond this, on the last bank, they came
upon the village of the Tamaroas, where they landed
and left indications of their presence for the absent
hunters; being careful to express the peaceful intent
of their journey, and thus secure a friendly reception
Avhen they should return.
Notwithstanding La Salle's eagerness to push for
ward, the expedition was repeatedly delayed that tlie
men might hunt and fish; for having come unen
cumbered with provisions excepting a quantity of
Indian corn, the party relied completely upon game
and an occasional donation from the Indians. Dur
ing one of these halts for food near the Third Chick
asaw Bluffs, one of the men, Peter Prudhomme,
became separated frora his companions and was not
found for nine days. In the course of the search for
him a report Avas brought to La Salle that a fresh
Indian trail had been discovered. The missing man
was immediately supposed to have fallen into the
hands of the unknown savages; and fearing treachery
to the entire party. La Salle set the men to building
a fort. Prudhomme was found a few days later in
an exhausted condition but unharmed, and La Salle
left him with two or three others in charge of the
fort Avhich he had named in his honor, while the
main party resumed the journey.

118 Early expioress.
Gradually the influence of Avinter had passed away
as the canoes sped toward the Gulf; and to La Salle
who had so often felt the bitterness of the cold sea
sons in the northern Avilderness, the gracious warmth
of the South must have had its charm.
Below fort Prudhomrae the voyagers were over
taken by a dense fog in Avhicli they Avere obliged to
raake their way for forty leagues, and on the third of
March, while still impeded by it, they were startled
by Avar-cries and the sound of the tocsins on the west
bank. Immediately they were on the qui vive, while
La Salle with his nsual caution moved to the side of
the river opposite that from which the sounds Avere
heard, had palisades thrown up, and within an hour
Avas ready to meet the Indians.
After an exchange of friendly signs the entire party
crossed the river and entered the Indian carap, where
for several days they Avere feasted and treated Avitli
the utmost generosity, and on the fourteenth of
March they raised a cross in the village bearing the
arras of France, and took possession of the country
with solemn ceremony. These proceedings, while
wholly incomprehensible to the Indians, Avere- wit
nessed by them with apparent pleasure, and Membr6
had so far succeeded in explaining the sacred mean
ing of the cross that upon the return of the expedi
tion it Avas found to be surrounded by a palisade.
This tribe, perhaps the same Akamseas whicii
Marquette and Joliet encountered, further showed
their good-will by supplying the party with provis
ions and giving them guides to conduct thera to the
villages below. The expedition erabarked from here
on the seventeenth of March, encountering on the
downward journey several friendly tribes, and at last

LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOAA'ER MISSISSIPPI. 110
stopping near the village of the Taensas, Avhich lay
inland on a bayou formed by a change in the course
of the river. La Salle was himself too fatigued to
go to the village, but he sent Tonty and Father Mem
bra with presents to the chief, being unwilling to
miss any opportunity to gain the favor of the red
men along his route.
Coming within sight of the Taensas village, Tonty
and his companion were not a little surprised to flnd
instead of the ordinary Indian lodges houses raade
of mud and straw, and other evidences of an approach
to civilization. The people of this tribe wore gar
ments of Avhite cloth ingeniously woven from the
bark of trees, had some furniture in their dwellings,
and like the Indians whom De Soto encountered,
understood the use of metals; but while the Spanish
adventurer had been deceived in regard to the mines,
they were now discovered to the later Frenchman,
whose ambition, however, reached so far beyond the
accumulation of personal wealth that he gave them
hardly a passing thought.
The chief of this village paid La Salle the honor
of a visit, coming to him with all the ceremony of a
more civilized potentate, and returning with the
pleased satisfaction of a child over the gifts which
his white brother had lavishly but prudently be
stowed. Frora here La Salle again ordered the adA'ance, and
the expedition moved forward without encountering
any Indians until the twenty-sixth of March, Avhen a
canoe was seen on the river twelve miles below.
The impetuous Tonty immediately gave chase, but
Avas ordered to return by La Salle, Avho saw that a
band of Avarriors had assembled on the shore ready to

iSO BARL-Sr EXfLdftEllS.
greet the strange intruder with a shower of arrows.
He was soon sent back with the calumet and was
kindly received, learning that the Indians belonged
to the Natchez tribe, and that they desired the white
men to visit thera at their village. It lay three
leagues inland, but, says Merabr^, " the Sieur de La
Salle did not hesitate to go there." He raised a large
cross bearing the arras of France in the midst of the
lodges, taking possession of the country in the name
of the French King, much to the amusement of his
unsuspecting entertainers.
At the village of the Koroa, who were allies of the
Natchez, lying ten leagues below, the Frenchmen
were again generously received, and La Salle was pre
sented with a peace-pipe from the chief; but. further
down they met with a different reception, for, coming
unexpectedly upon a party of Quinipissa flshermen,
the frightened Indians fled, Avhile their friends from
the shore covered their retreat with drawn bows.
Seeing that to further follow them was useless, the
voyagers kept their way, soon reaching the last and
most peaceful village on their route. Here they dis
embarked and advanced toward the lodges, but no
one appeared to resent their intrusion, and gaining
confidence as they neared the silent habitations, they
cautiously peered within their gloomy recesses. There
they found a sickening sight, for less friendly visitors
had preceded them, and with fearful vengeance had
sent their unsuspicious victims with scalping-knife
and tomahawk to the "happy hunting grounds."
" At last," says Father Membr6, " after a naviga
tion of about forty leagues, we arrived on the sixth
of April at a point where the river divides into three
channels. The Sieur de La Salle divided his party the

LA SALLE TAKING POSSESSION OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

123 EARLY EXPLORERS.
next day into three bands, to go and explore them.
He took the western, the Sieur Dautray the south
ern, the Sieur de Tonty, whom I accompanied, the
raiddle one. These three channels are beautiful and
deep. The water is brackish; after advancing two
leagues it became perfectly salt, and advancing on we
discovered the open sea, so that on the ninth of April,
with all possible solemnity, Ave performed the cere
mony of planting the cross and raising the arms of
France." The priests then chanted the "Vexilla
Regis" and the "Te Deum," the raen shouted
" Vive le Roi," and La Salle, after taking formal pos
session of the Great River, " of all rivers that enter
into it, and of all the country watered by them," read
a document certifying the fact and amply proving
the credit due him. This he asked those who were
with him to sign, taking in the meanwhile a careful
estimate of the latitude of the month. By this act
all of the country " frora the AUeghenies to the
Rocky Mountains, from the Rio Grande and the
Gulf to the farthest springs of the Missouri," was
appropriated by this zealous subject of the Grand
Monarch, and named in his honor Louisiana.
The supply of provisions was now entirely ex
hausted, but Avhen the descent of the river was com
menced there Avere opportunities to obtain food
from the Indians or by the hunt.
On the thirteenth of April the smoke of the Quin
ipissa village was seen, and a party was sent out to
reconnoitre. Four squaAvs were taken, and by keep
ing three of thera as hostages while the fourth was
sent back with presents, a small quantity of corn was
obtained. The gift was grudgingly given, however,
and La Salle's men were obliged to act with the

LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 133
utmost caution in order to avoid treachery. Being
invited to a feast at the village, they soon discovered
that the pretended hospitality was only a ruse in
tended to ensnare them; for stray Indians were
seen approaching, armed and evidently ready to give
the Avhite men a surprise. La Salle and his follow
ers kept their weapons Avell in sight and no assault
was then attempted; but the following morning
before dawn the sentinel heard a rustling in the cane
brakes near the camp, and giving the alarm, a band
of proAvling red-skins was discovered. Showers of
arrows responded to the guns of the white men, and
although it rained, a spirited fight ensued; but the
Indians losing heavily without being able to injure
their antagonists, soon fied. Thoroughly exasperated.
La Salle's men Avere on the point of burning the
village of their would-be murderers, but their leader
restrained them, foreseeing a future need of their
good-will. When the party reached the villages
farther up the river they found that their late ene
mies had stirred up a feeling of distrust against them,
but La Salle skillfully regained the confidence of the
disaffected chiefs and was allowed to continue unmo
lested. He Avas soon delayed by something more
serious than savage opposition, however, for near
Fort Prudhomme he fell ill and was obliged to remain
there several weeks, while Tonty in the meanwhile
went on to Michilimackinac, from whence he sent a
report of the recent expedition to the Governor.
Frontenac no longer held that office, having been
replaced by La Barr6, a man of altogether different
character and strongly prejudiced against La Salle.
The latter, having recovered, hastened to meet
Tonty and leave instructions with hira regarding the

1^4 EAiiLY expLor:^^^.
fort which he intended to build on the Illinois, Avhile
lie prepared to go to Quebec. His affairs were now
in a lamentable condition, and it was necessary to
take active steps to right them. Scores of creditors
in Canada Avere waiting for the explorer's great
schemes to materialize, while he, thoroughly confl
dent of success, was yet able to reassure them. As
before suggested, his intention was to make the new
fort a large trading post and the center of a prosper
ous colony, while by virtue of its position it would be
a stronghold against the Iroquois. Around it would
gather the numerous tribes of the West seeking pro
tection, who would pour into its storehouses the
wealth of unlimited hunting grounds. It was to be
the flrst in a chain of similar colonies which he in
tended to establish along the entire length of the
Great River, to which the projected post at the Gulf
was to be the key. In this the ambitious La Salle
could see the prosperous accomplishment of all his
plans. France benefited; the New World committed
to her interests; creditors appeased, and his own
unceasing efforts crowned. But he was doomed to
disappointment. Reports were brought of an im
pending Iroquois iuA'asion, and instead of hastening
to France as he had intended, he was obliged to
remain at the new fort — Saint Louis— to prepare for
attack. From here he sent men to Quebec to obtain
supplies, in anticipation of a siege, but so great was
La Barre's jealousy of La Salle that he detained them.
It is even said that he encouraged the Iroquois in
making their raid upon the western tribes, that La
Salle might be involved in the general rnin, thus sac
rificing his country's interests to his personal ambi
tion; but whether or not this has any foundation.

LA SALLE EXPLORES THB LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 135
it is evident that he took extreme measures to thwart
the explorer, attempting even to prejudice the King,
and so far succeeding that Louis, in a letter to the
"Governor, expressed his belief in the uselessness of
La Salle's discoveries. He then assumed the respon
sibility of seizing Fort Frontenac under some slight
pretext, following up this piracy by sending an offi
cer to take possession of Fort Saint liouis, with orders
to La Salle to report at Quebec.
As the Iroquois had not made the expected raid.
La Salle was at the time going to Canada, en route
for France. He therefore met the Governor's emis
sary on the way, but maintaining his usual composure
sent back Avord to Tonty to receive the Chevalier
de Baugis well; Avhile he, still undaunted, sought to
redress his wrongs and claim an unprejudiced hear
ing at the Court of Versailles.

-^ ERECTIN6 CM5S AT A N. INDIAN VILLAGE,

CHAPTER VIII.
LAST VOYAGE AND DEATH OF LA SALLE.
' OUIS, partially influenced by the opinions of
his late rainister, and no doubt stirred
by the earnestness of the explorer him
self — who, still inspired by the vast
possibilities of the New World, was
anxious that France should realize and
^ "^( profit by them — had listened favorably
to La Salle's proposals, and had con-
firraed his approval by letters patent bearing his
royal sign and seal. Colbert had previously discussed
.with La Salle the feasibility of "flnding a port
where the French raight establish themselves and
harass the Spaniards in those regions from whence
they derive all their wealth," and this scheme, again
brought to the notice of the King, prompted that
enthusiasm which led him to provide more than had
been asked for the success of the enterprise. Should
the friendly relations maintained between France and
Spain prevent any immediate encroachment upon
the Mexican possessions of the latter, the policy of
La Salle was to follow the original plan of establish
ing a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi, where
he would be prepared at the slightest intimation of
hostilities to make a raid upon the Mexican mines.
In this case he further intimated that "if the Span
iards should delay satisfying the King at the conclu
sion of a peace, an expedition at this point will oblige
(1S6)

DEATH OP LA SALLE. 137
thera to lias"ten its conclusion, and to give His
Majesty important places in Europe in exchange for
those which they may lose in a country of the posses
sion of which they are extremely jealous."
While these motives evidently excited the King's
interest in the enterprise and secured his hearty coop
eration, the first object of the expedition was nomi
nally the subjection and conversion of the savage
nations of America, and it was therefore in conform
ity to these motives that La Salle was careful to
include among those who were to form his company
a sufficient number of missionaries. Agents were
sent to Rochefort and Rochelle to secure soldiers and
artisans; several families were enlisted for the colony,
and by the twenty-fourth of July, 1684, all preparations
were completed, the company was aboard the boats, and
together with tAventy other vessels bound for Canada,
the fleet sailed from Rochelle. The Canadian vessels
no doubt bore the letters to La Barr^ expressing the
King's disapproval of his late proceedings, and re
quiring the return of all property seized unlawfully
belonging to his prot6g6, the Sieur de la Salle.
The naval command of La Salle's expedition had
been given to Captain de Beaujeu, whom Le Clercq
says was known for valor, experience, and meritorious
service; who had indeed been a naval captain for
thirteen years, as he himself tells Seignelay in one of
his letters of complaint; but his long position of
authority and natural pride raade him chafe under
the calm assumption of one whom he contemptuously
calls a "civilian" and who was possessed of quite as
much hauteur as himself. The King moreover had
given La Salle almost unlimited authority, whicii
easi ly gave him the advantage in matters of dispute.

138 EARLY EXPLORERS.
Once at sea, this unfortunate feeling of antagonism
soon manifested itself, and a trifling accident which
occurred when the fleet was about fifty leagues out
was considered by some — La Salle among them — to
have been deliberately planned. This was the break
ing of the bowsprit of the royal ship "Joly," whicii
was under the personal command of Beaujeu. It Avas
necessary to return in order to repair the injury, aud
in the raeantime the ships bound for Canada, which
were to have kept with the smaller fleet as far as
Cape Finisterre, continued to that point alone. On
the eighth of August La Salle's party reached the Cape,
and on the twentieth sighted the Island of Madeira.
Here Beaujeu wished to cast anchor for Avater and pro
visions, as there had been some misunderstanding at the
start about the length of the voyage and the number
of passengers; but La Salle considered this unneces
sary, and feared besides that the Spaniards might
hear of their coraing, which would place them under
suspicion. Although La Salle's reasons for passing the island
were excellent, Beaujeu and, in fact, the entire crew
were out of humor with his decision, and Joutel, look
ing back over the disastrous period which followed,
says: "These misunderstandings * * * laid the
foundation of those tragical events which afterward
put an unhappy end to M. de La Salle's life and
undertaking, and occasioned our ruin."
Beaujeu then declared that no stop should be
made but at the Island of San Domingo.
In passing the Tropic of Cancer on the way thither,
the sailors prepared to carry out their usual practice
of "ducking." A tub was placed On deck and
everything made ready for the ludicrous and annoying

DEATH OE LA SALLE. 139
ceremony, when La Salle interfered, saying that
those under his comraand should have no part in
it; thereupon Beaujeu forbade the men to put the
plan into execution, and this again brought the
chief into disfavor.
Together with these tempests on board the boats,
the fleet was several times threatened with storms
frora without. The "Aimable" and the "Belle,"
with the heaA-ily loaded ketch " Saint Francis," often
became separated frora the "Joly " and were obliged
to lie to for fair weather, or follow as their heavier
cargoes permitted. During one of these storms off
San Domingo the vessels became dispersed, the
"Joly" as usual keeping the lead. La Salle in the
meantime had expressed his desire to stop at Port de
Paix, which was a convenient point, and where he Avas
to obtain supplies for the expedition according to a
pre-arranged plan with M. de Oussy, Governor of the
Island of Tortuga; but Beaujeu, evidently to gratify
personal pique, passed the place in the night, anchoring
on the twenty-seventh of September at Petit Gouave on
the other side of the island. This was a great annoy
ance to La Salle, the more so as he was himself ill,
and was every day becoming more convinced, not
only of Beaujeu's indifference, but of the utter
worthlessness of the men whom his agents had
secured to aid him in his enterprise. He accepted
the situation with characteristic fortitude, however,
and on the day following the arrival at Petit Gouave,
having somewhat recovered from his illness, he went
ashore to send messages to De Cussy, Begon the
intendant, and the Marquis de Saint Laurent, Lieu
tenant-governor of the islands. He then provided
more comfortable quarters for the sick, who numbered
9

130 EARLY EXPLORERS.
more than flfty, and whose maladies in most cases
had been brought on by their own excesses.
At this unfortunate time he was hiraself attacked
by a violent fever and was delirious for several days,
only regaining consciousness long enough to realize
the condition of his affairs. His men being under
no restraint became more dissipated than ever, and
Beaujeu at this crisis held coolly aloof. Word was
also brought of the loss of the " Saint Francis," one of
the disastrous results of the captain's obstinacy. She
had been taken by the Spaniards Avhile attempting
to come up with the other vessels after a storm. It
probably afforded La Salle sraall satisfaction to learn
from his friends on the island that this would not
have occurred if Beaujeu had stopped at Port de Paix.
Having made reparation as far as possible for this
loss. La Salle hastened the embarkation, as his men
were fast becoming demoralized and many of them
had already deserted. At a council of pilots held to
decide upon the point to be reached before making
the final voyage, the Island of Cuba or Cape Saint
Anthony was determined upon. At night, on the fifth
of December, they cast anchor in a small creek on the
Isle of Pines, where they stayed for three days wait
ing for fair weather. Here, according to Joutel,
La Salle "shot an alligator dead," which the soldiers
proceeded to boil and eat; but the fastidious narrator
remarks that they had "good stomachs," and that
he could not relish the meat, for it had a taste of
musk. Quantities of wild swine were seen, which were
probably " of the breed of those the Spaniards left
in the islands when they first discovered them." One
of these was killed and sent to La Salle, who divided

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 131
the feast with the naval commander. Again on the
eighth sails were set, with Cape Saint Anthony as the
objective, which was reached four days later; but the
winds being unfavorable the expedition halted only
one .night there, moving away on the thirteenth.
The winds being again unfavorable, Beaujeu sug
gested that the boats return to the cape, to which
La Salle agreed, being careful not to give the captain
any cause to complain. On the eighteenth of the
same month the fieet started forward in a fresh wind,
moving generally to the northwest, and on the first
of January, 1685, was driven toward the coast by the
current. It was then decided that a boat be sent out
to discover land. La Salle, Beaujeu, and D'Aire being
among the passengers. The result was unsatisfac
tory, and the wind rising, forced them back to the
ships. A few days later a calm tempted La Salle to
go ashore again to get some idea of his position; but
the pilot took exception to the number of men who
were to accompany him, and he unaccountably aban
doned the idea. The ships were at that time proba
bly near one of the mouths of the Mississippi-, and
had an exploration been made La Salle's entire des
tiny might have been altered. He seemed, however,
to have been entirely ignorant of the locality, believ
ing he was yet far to the eastward — near the Bay of
Appalachee. He was therefore satisfied to send out
the pilot and one of the masters of the boat " La
Belle," who soon returned on account of a fog. The
pilot's coihpanion reported that he believed there was
a river beyond the shoals that had been sighted on
the sixth, "and yet," says Joutel, "M. de La Salle
took no notice of it, nor made any account of that
report." Soon after this another attempt was made

133 EARLY EXPLORERS.
to reach the shore, as the supply of water had given
out, Joutel being sent in charge of the boats. On
nearing land a number of Indians were seen walking
along the sandy beach, Avho signaled to the crew to
come on, but the sea was very high and the boats
would be in danger of going aground. Joutel now
determined, if possible, to get the Indians to come
out, that he might take them back to the "Aim-
able," where La Salle could question thera. He there
fore signaled to them in turn, putting a handker
chief on the end of his fire-lock in token of peace.
In an instant their swarthy bodies were seen battling
with the waves, but they could not stand against
them and were forced back to shore. With quick
intelligence they devised a plan, however, and soon
put it into execution. Finding a large piece of
timber, they threw it into the water and arranged
themselves on either side of it, each man putting one
arm around it and swimming with the other. When
tliey reached the boats they were taken in, naked and
streaming, and carried back to the vessel. The trip
was useless, hoAvever, for La Salle could neither under
stand them nor make them understand him. He
gave them beads and trinkets, according to his cus
tom, which were tied in their hair and about their
necks, and thus adorned they were taken out to the
place of meeting, from whence they swam ashore.
When not hindered by calms the ships now bore
steadily westward, expecting to find some signs of the
Mississippi, and still misguided by the advice received
at San Domingo. Frequent landings were made in
the meantime for fresh Avater and game, and hav
ing reached the sandy shores of Texas, where the
western curve of the Gulf commences, without finding

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 133
"the fatal river," as Joutel calls it. La Salle pro
posed to return and make investigations about the
point which had been passed on the sixth of January;
but ill success had somewhat weakened his cause,
and Beaujeu, probably glad of the opportunity, now
offered objections. In the first place he sent D'Aire
with various grievances; among others that La Salle —
who had hurried ahead in the "Aimable," eagerly
seeking the Mississippi — had designedly left him. He
then complained that provisions had fallen short and
that there would not be enough to last for the return
voyage to France; but it was not La Salle's intention
to return without making another attempt to find
his river, and he therefore offered to supply Beaujeu's
ship, the " Joly," with two weeks' provisions from
his OAvn. Beaujeu was dissatisfied with this, and left
La Salle without further discussing the matter.
Meanwhile boats went ashore for water and to give
the men a chance to hunt. La Salle being among the
passengers. Here D'Aire again came to him to talk
about the provisions, still insisting that the "Joly"
be supplied for a longer period than two weeks.
La Salle not only explained that this would be ample
time to carry out his plans, but that a larger supply
would necessitate rumraaging the hold of the " Aim-
able." D'Aire returned with La Salle's messages,
while the latter, wishing to flnd a river which would
give a better supply of water than the one near which
the vessels were then anchored, sent on a small party
to explore. After following the shore line for some
distance they found a "great river." Signals were
raised for the boats to join thera, and La Salle hoped
this might be one of the mouths of the Mississippi.
Soundings were made all along and stakes set to

134 EARLY EXPLORERS.
guide their passage, for La Salle desired that they
come to anchor at this point. He then sent the pilot
of "La Belle" to assist in bringing in the fly-
boat, but Beaujeu, angry about the provisions and
thwarted in his already meditated plan of desertion,
refused to let him corae aboard, saying he could get
along very well without his help.
Another event occurring soon after seemed to pre
sage misfortune. La Salle had set sorae men to hew
ing down a tree on the river bank, and while at work
they were surprised by Indians and several of their
number captured. The rest ran terrifled to report
to La Salle, who immediately caused the party to
pursue the savages with drums beating. This had
the desired effect of scaring them. He then had ten
of the men lay aside their arms and with him
approach the Indians, as he Avished to get what
information he could from them and secure the
captives peaceably. This was of no avail, however,
for they could not make themselves understood, and
they had led away the men during the* conference.
La Salle was therefore obliged to follow them to their
village. On the way there the Indians were attracted
by the ships, which could be plainly seen, and La
Salle, following their gaze, noticed with some uneasi
ness that the "Aimable" was under sail and moving
in the wrong direction; yet he was determined to
rescue the captives, and therefore did not turn back.
Soon the report of a cannon broke the stillness. The
Indians, terrifled, fell upon their faces, while La Salle,
looking over the Gulf, saw the "Aimable" with
furled sails stranded upon the shoals. The signal
of distress meant an inestimable loss, for on this ship
were almost all the tools and ammunition for the

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 135
expedition; and although the accident was due to
direct opposition to La Salle's orders — perhaps even to
treachery — " his intrepidity did not forsake him and
he applied himself without grieving to remedy what
might be." Notwithstanding the weight of anxiety
pressing npon him, he waited for the release of his
men, and then hurrying to the shore did all in his
power to recover part of the cargo of the ruined ves
sel. Some gunpowder and flour were saved, but
while the work was going on the sky became overcast
and a storm broke upon the dismal scene.
A party of Indians taking advantage of the general
confusion came doAvn to the beach to plunder, but
La Salle's effectual tactics were resorted to, and the
drums soon put them to flight. Later they succeeded
in stealing a roll of blankets, and volunteers were
sent to recover them, but flnding that the squaws
had already cut them up for skirts, they indiscreetly
showed, their anger and further excited the savages by
taking sorae of their canoes. The result was fatal;
for, being unfamiliar with the frail craft and delayed
by obstructions, they made very slow progress and
were overtaken by darkness not far below the Indian
village. The vengeful inhabitants had stealthily
followed them, and when their victims were asleep
sent a salute of arrows into their midst, killing two of
the men and wounding La Salle's nephew, Moranguet.
The latter, however, was not too badly hurt to dis
charge his gun at the unseen assailants, which for a
time frightened them off.
This affair, coupled with recent disasters, tended
to increase the general discontent, and Beaujeu now
prepared to return, saying that as the Mississippi —
or at least what was supposed to be that river — had

136 EARLY EXPLORERS.
been reached, his obligation was practically at an end.
La Salle Avas evidently very willing to forego his
assistance, merely requesting that some ammunition
which belonged to him on board the "Joly" be
turned over to him; bnt Beaujeu, perhaps with a
lingering feeling of spite, gave as an excuse for not
meeting this request the fact that the goods lay at the
bottom of the hold, and by searching for them he
would endanger the vessel. Besides this, he allowed
the entire crcAV of the " Aimable " to follow her cap
tain and return with hira to France.
That this conduct was the result of deliberate
treachery was conflrraed by later events; and it has
even been proved that the faithless captain after
leaving La Salle went hiraself in search of the Mis
sissippi, found it, and, although provisions had been
alarmingly short before, remained in the vicinity of
its mouth long enough to enable the engineer Minet
to make two maps. He then set sail, gracefully turn
ing his back upon the lonely shores of the Gulf,
where far to the westward — within what is now
known as Matagorda Bay — the abandoned and well-
nigh despairing little colony under La Salle was left
to accomplish the great ends which that intrepid
explorer had planned.
Although the outlook was rather disheartening
after the departure of the "Joly," no time was given
over to idle lamenting. From the wreck of the
"Aimable," Fort Saint Louis was built, the colonists
and some of the raen were safely domiciled within its
palisades, and Joutel left in command, while La
Salle went to discover if the river they had reached
were indeed what he had hoped — the western mouth
of the Mississippi.

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 137
Orders were left to hold no communication with
Indians and to flre upon any who might approach.
La Salle hearing shots a few days afterward, and
fearing they might be a signal of distress, returned
to see if all was well. He had found in the mean
time that the "great river" which they had hap
lessly come upon was not the one on which the colo
nists were to flnd a home and fortune; but their
immediate wants must be supplied, and for this
reason La Salle selected a more convenient place to
the eastward of Fort Saint Louis, on a small river
which he named La Vache.
Joutel, abandoning the old fort to join the party
here some time later, found a forlorn condition of
things. Owing to the scarcity of timber, the men,
AVomen, and children were living in wretched little
huts and tents, the crops were a miserable failure,
and in fact failure seemed to typify the whole enter
prise. La Salle, however, was still hopeful and
undaunted. He sent Joutel back to Fort Saint Louis
with "La Belle," the only boat now left, to get the
timber which had been squared and hidden in the
sand. With this, new buildings were thrown up and
more comfortable quarters established; yet the seem
ing air of prosperity still covered miserable realities,
for disease and death were every day adding to the
overwhelming numbers who had perished within the
year. There was now no time to be lost, and La Salle with
thirty men went once more in search of the "fatal
river." This time, anticipating bad faith, he left
additional orders Avith Joutel telling him to receive
no man of those who went with him except he
brought a message from him in writing. It soon

138 EARLY EXPLORERS.
transpired that this order was not made without
reason. One evening a few weeks after La Salle's depart
ure the sentinel keeping his lonely watch within the
fort was startled by the sound of a voice coming from
the direction of the river, calling "Dominick!" the
name of the younger Duhaut. Joutel was summoned,
and in an instant all the men were assembled in the
open inclosure. The commander advanced to see
who the intruder might be, and found Duhaut in a
canoe near the shore. Joutel was in doubt as to
whether or not ho ought to enforce La Salle's order,
but Duhaut told a very plausible story of becoming
separated from the party and of being unable to
overtake it, and Joutel saw no other course but to
allow him to enter. "Thus it pleased God," he
says, "that he who was to be one of the murderers
of M. de La Salle should come off safe and surmount
almost inflnite dangers." Some time after this La
Salle himself returned with a few ragged and weary
men, after an unsuccessful tramp through forests and
over prairies in quest of the river which the explorer
was destined never to reach.
On the day of his arrival Joutel happened to be
walking on top of one of the buildings, and seeing a
body of men advancing over the prairie hurried out
to meet them. They proved to be La Salle and eight
of his followers, the remainder having been left on
the bank of a river which was thought to be the Mis
sissippi, while the crew of the " Belle," Avith the
boat itself, which had kept along the coast, had dis
appeared and was supposed to be lost. With this
the last hope of returning to France was aban
doned; the Mississippi was still undiscovered; every

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 139
undertaking had failed, and at last, borne down by a
Aveigbt of anxiety and wearied with his fruitless Avan
derings, La Salle fell dangerously ill; but his sturdy
frame and indomitable spirit soon overcame this weak
ness, and he prepared again not only to flnd the Missis
sippi, but to ascend it to the Illinois and thence to
Canada, where he intended to get vessels and provis
ions for the relief of his people. At the end of April
his party of twenty volunteers, bearing their light
packs of clothing and ammunition, issued from the
gate of the little stockaded fort, quietly and reso
lutely, to undertake another of those journeys which
had so often proved perilous and unavailing. As
usual, a remnant of their number returned to tell the
story of anotlier failure; some having deserted and
others perished.
These continual misfortunes were naturally dis
heartening, and yet the chief still planned to accom
plish his purpose. Another expedition was discussed;
preparations were begun; and as it was decided to
wait till the end of the hot weather before undertak
ing it, the men were put to work making clothing
out of sails, and hewing timber for future use, for
work was always La Salle's antidote for discontent.
In the meantime Christmas approached, and the
isolated band far away in the wilderness asserabled
in the rough chapel to celebrate the mass.. On
Twelfth Night they again came together after the
usual custom, to perform the quaint old ceremony of
The King Drinks; but when they lifted the cups
their lips were moistened, not with the merry wine
which their countrymen were sipping in France, but
with the simple nectar of the New World's springs.
The following day, the seventh of January, those

140 EARLY EXPLORERS.
chosen to accompany La Salle on his last journey,
said farewell to the forlorn little colony left behind,
once more encouraged by the words and example of
their leader. Much the same direction that had
been taken before was followed by this latter party —
that is, toward the northeast. On the fourteenth,
while crossing a prairie, herds of buffaloes were seen;
some of them running as if pursued by Indians,
while others, beginning to catch the infection, were
moving in frightened groups toward the travelers.
Soon a hunter appeared, and La Salle, having ordered
one of the pack-horses to be unloaded, sent one of
his raen to pursue the red-skin, who, finding himself
captured, concluded he was a lost raan. He was
somewhat surprised, however, to find himself kindly
treated — which but for La Salle's wise interposition
would not have been the case — and upon being
released soon afterward walked cautiously away till
well out of range, when he began running for dear
life. Soon after this a band of Indians was seen
advancing, but La Salle had his men continue the
march until within hailing distance, when a halt Avas
called. At this the natives halted also, while La Salle,
laying down his gun, walked toward the chief, sig
naling him to come forward. A sort of peace was
made, presents were distributed, and the two parties
separated. La Salle and his men pushing on over the
still familiar route, and occasionally meeting Indians
with whora peace was established.
On the eleventh of March they carae to a place
near which La Salle in a previous journey had hidden
some corn and beans, and as provisions were scarce
Duhaut, Heins, Liotot the surgeon, Nika his Mohe-
gan hunter, and Saget his footman were sent with a

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 141
party of Indians to get the stores. They were found
rotted, but when returning Nika shot two bullocks,
and Saget was sent back to inform his master.
Moranguet, La Salle's nephew, and De Marie were
sent with horses to bring back the meat for drying;
but when they reached the hunting party they found
that the raeat had already been smoked, although it
Avas not ready; while Duhaut and his companions
had, according to custom, laid aside the marrow
bones and a few other parts to roast. At this the
quick-tempered Moranguet fell into a rage, menacing
Duhaut and the others, and at the same time taking
possession of all of the meat. This impassioned
behavior roused like a fire-brand the smoldering
hatred of the men, who already had causes of offense
against the nephew of their chief.
In an instant a thousand real and imaginary griev
ances Avere recalled. In the first place, Duhaut and
Liotot had invested large sums of money in an enter
prise which seemed destined to fail, and in follow
ing which they had met only privations and losses;
their leader, habitually cold and reserved, had uncon
sciously done much to help on the general disaffec
tion, while Liotot — whose brother had been sent back
alone by La Salle during one of the marches, and had
been massacred by Indians on the way — had a per
sonal sorrow to avenge. They had moreover a
grudge against Moranguet and were determined to
kill him.
Taking the pilot Tessier, Heins the buccaneer, and
L'Archev^que into their confidence, they went aside
to deliberate upon their murderous purpose; and hav
ing determined to put Nika and Saget out of the
way because they were faithful to La Salle, they

142 EARLY EXPLORERS.
waited, after the manner of their kind, for the dark
ness. The evening meal was eaten in silence, each man
busy with his own thoughts, and when it was finished
the watches were arranged. Moranguet was to keep
the flrst, Saget the second, and Nika the third.
Taking his post, gun in hand, Moranguet guarded
the apparently sleeping flgures of his companions
until his time was up; then calling to Saget he
wrapped himself in his blanket and lay down to rest.
The end of the third watch was the signal for the
assassins to begin their work. Duhaut, Heins,
Tessier, and L'Archeveque stood guard while the
surgeon with sure aim struck the death-blow. Nika
and Saget did not stir, but Moranguet made a convul
sive effort to sit up, which was quickly prevented by
a second stroke. "This slaughter," says Joutel,
"had yet satisfled but one part of the revenge of
those murderers. To flnish it and secure themselves
it was requisite to destroy the commander-in-chief."
Their unhappy victim was already planning to meet
his murderers; for becoming uneasy at the delay of
Moranguet, and fearing the party might have fallen
into the hands of the Indians, he determined to go in
search of them. He also, it is said, had forebodings
of another kind, and asked his men if Duhaut, Liotot,
and Heins had not betrayed some signs of discontent.
Receiving no definite answer, he started out accom
panied by Father Douay, leaving Joutel in charge of
the camp.
On the way he talked to the priest of God's mercy
in having protected him from the countless dangers
with which he had been encompassed during his
twenty years of travel in America; but his manner

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 143
suddenly changing, he becarae so overwhelmed with
sadness that his companion declares he did not know
him. As they advanced toward the river, on whose
farther shore the murderers had their camp. La
Salle, noticing two eagles circling in the air over
head, discharged his gun at thera. The shot warned
the conspirators. Duhaut and L'Archeveque Avent
up the river, crossing over without being seen.
Duhaut then dropped into the long grass, while his
servant remained in sight, and La Salle noticing him
asked where Moranguet was. L'Archeveque replied in
a broken voice that he was along the river, and at
the same instant, as La Salle turned to follow the
direction, Duhaut raised and fired. The bullet
reached its mark and La Salle fell, pierced through
the brain.
Father Douay, who was standing beside him,
tremblingly expected the same fate; but Duhaut
reassured him, telling him that it was despair that
had driven him to the deed. ^-^^
The murderers now gathered about their victim,
while Liotot, remembering the death of his brother,
cried out in scorn, "There thou liest, great Basha!
There thou liest!" Then dragging the corpse into
the bushes they left it a prey to the beasts.
Duhaut and his confederates now returned to carap,
¦where they were soon the masters, the terror of their
presence causing the most abject submission. Joutel,
meanwhile, had gone off to a neighboring hill to
watch some horses grazing in the bottom, and thither
L'Archeveque, who had a " kindness " for hira, went
to warn him. The news was a great blow to this
officer, and he had besides something to fear on his

(144)

DEATH OF LA SALLE. 145
own account. There was, however, no alternative,
and trusting to a kind Providence he went back to
camp, where he Avas greeted by Duhaut's menacing
remark, " Every man ought to command in his turn."
Safety demanded silence, while those who would
have brought the guilty ones to justice were
restrained by the priest Cavelier, who reminded them
that vengeance belonged to God.
With the death of the leader, whom Douay called
their guardian angel, everything was thrown into
confusion. The new commander took possession of
all the stores and the men dared offer no resistance.
There came a time, however, when their villainy was
avenged; and strangely enough this was brought
about by one of their number, the buccaneer Heins.
While he seems to have conspired with them against
Moranguet, there is no evidence to show that he took
a part in the murder of La Salle, who had always
been partial to him. When, therefore, Duhaut and
Liotot were on their way to Canada, Heins, who
refused to go with them farther, demanded his share
of the goods. Duhaut and Liotot refused, giA'ing as
an excuse the fact that they were entitled to them
as a recompense for their losses. " So you will not
give them to me ? " demanded the buccaneer. " No, "
replied they. Thereupon he drew his pistol from
his belt and flred at Duhaut, saying as he did so,
"You are a villain. You killed my master." A
Frenchman who was then with Heins mortally
wounded Liotot, and after the latter had made a con
fession of his crime, the sarae man stepped forward
and discharged a blank cartridge against his head.
In a moment more his hair had caught flre, then his
clothing, and so, consumed by the flames, he perished.
10

146 EARLY EXPLORERS.
Joutel, the two Caveliers, Father Douay, and a few
others afterAvard made their way to Fort Saint Louis
on the Illinois, where they waited for Tonty, who had
gone to the Iroquois war, and from whom they later
received money to return to France; concealing from
him for certain reasons the fact of La Salle's death,
Tonty, having previously heard that the latter was
somewhere on the Gulf and in distress, had made a
difficult journey to flnd him, with the hope of lend
ing him succor; but, failing in the attempt, was
obliged to return again to his post on the Illinois.
On the way up the Mississippi he left a letter with
the Quinipissa tribe — since become friendly to the
French — and D'Ibberville, passing that way thirteen
years later, found the message, which had been care
fully preserved by one of the chiefs.
As to the little Texan colony of Saint Louis, which
La Salle left when he went on his last journey in
search of the "fatal river," the only record that
remains of it is in the Spanish account of the expedi
tion of Don Alonzo de Leon, where it is said that the
Spaniards upon reaching Bay Saint Bernard, knoAvn by
the French as Bay Saint Louis, came upon a ruined
fort where the dead bodies of several foreigners were
found, who had evidently been massacred by the
Indians. Don Alonzo was moved to compassion at
the sight, and although he afterward learned from
two Frenchmen who had been with La Salle —
L'Archeveque was one — the motives which had moved
the explorer when he brought his people there, he
still manifested the greatest concern and pity. At
the same time, however, he informed his govern
ment of tho affair, that its Mexican colonies might
be protected from the inroads of others, which this

DEATH OF LA SALLE.

147

daring though unsuccessful venture seemed to
presage. So perished the plans of one of the greatest of
explorers, who "belonged not to the age of the
knight-errant and the saint, but to the modern
world of practical study and practical action," and
to, whom the enterprising spirit of a nineteenth-
century civilization looks back with admiration and
praise.

Building of roRf^ii^rloaiS'

CHAPTER IX.
FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN.
^HE life of this sturdy Franciscan, whose
very garb has so often been the means
of condemning him, possesses no small
amount of attractiveness, notwith
standing the just criticisms that have
been leveled against it by those who
have made it a study; and even in following Henne
pin's accounts, exasperating as they are by the doubts
which they excite of the author's veracity, it is still
impossible to resist the clever stretching of truth
which made them popular above those of his fellow
travelers, not only in France, but in the other coun
tries of Europe.
With La Hontan and a few others of like reputa
tion, he is condemned to "that amiable class who
seem to tell truth by accident and fiction by inclina
tion"; yet for want of something better we are left
to the mercy of these capricious historians, who with
all their fabrications have given us records of the
highest value.
Moved by impulse while still a student, Hennepin
entered the order of Saint Francis that he might pass
the remainder of his days "in a life of austerity."
This step was evidently a mistake. He soon became
impatient with convent monotony, and in reading of
the travels of his brother priests his craving for
adventure asserted itself. He was permitted to
(148)

^AtkfiR LdtTtS ttiii^NEPiN. 14§
tisit the Franciscan churches and convents of Ger
many and Italy, which in a measure satisfled him;
but returning from this tour he found his inclina
tions thwarted by one of his superiors who did not
approve of them, and who sent hira to a convent in
Hainault, where he stayed a year preaching.
Anything was better than this, and at the end of
that time he received permission to go to Artois, and
from there was sent to Calais, where he artlessly com
promised himself by confessing that he " often hid
behind the tavern doors while the sailors were talking
over their cruises," declaring that he could have
passed whole days and nights without eating in this
agreeable occupation, because by this means he was
enabled to learn something new about the manners
and mode of life of foreign nations.
By these stories his "old inclination" was also
aroused, and starting out again he wandered about as
a missionary through the towns of Holland, although
the country was then shadowed by the desperate con
flicts of the Prince of Orange and Louis XIV.
At Maestricht, at the time of the siege, he worked
in the hospitals among the wounded for eight months,
and, catching a zeal from his labors there, was next
ministering to the soldiers on the bloody fleld of
Seneff, where his unflinching charity, though in a
measure vaunted by himself, was none the less
admirable. From war-scourged Holland he was recalled to
Rochelle, having been elected by his superiors to
make one of the quintette of missionaries to be sent
to Canada at the request of Frontenac. This oppor
tunity was gratifying to the restless priest, and he
hastened back to France to prepare for the vovage.

156 EARLY ilXPLOfiEfeS.
La Salle, with his grant of Fort Frontenac and new
patent of nobility, and Francis de Laval, soon to
become Vicar Apostolic of New France, were two of
his fellow passengers, whom he variously impressed
on the way to Canada. He says that De Laval upon
tlieir arrival at Quebec commissioned him to preach
the Advent and Lenten sermons to the nuns of the
Hotel Dieu; but curious in the meantime to see the
country about him, he traveled to the neighboring
towns with his portable chapel service and snow-shoes
strapped to his back, sturdily enduring hunger and
fatigue, and, worse still, the frosts which "often
penetrated to his very bones."
From Quebec he was sent with Father Buisset to
Fort Frontenac to instruct the Indians there, and
Avhile laboring in the new field still roamed about in
every direction, visiting the Five Nations, and even
going as far as Albany, where the Dutch invited him
to make his horae.
At the end of two years La Salle had returned from
France with permission to carry on his discoveries,
and Hennepin, hearing of his arrival, hurried down
to Quebec, Avhere he hoped to flnd messages giving
him permission to join in the enterprise. To his
delight La Salle brought a favorable letter from
Father Le F6vre, his Provincial, aud after going into
retreat for a time, he went back to Fort Frontenac,
where with La Motte and a crew of sixteen he was
sent forward to Niagara. Then followed the build
ing of the fort there; the negotiations with the
Senecas; the triumphant sail of the " Griffin," and
finally the establishment of Fort Creve-cceur.
From here La Salle sent the restless Recollet on to
the Mississippi, before making his brave journey

FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 15]
back to Canada for the relief of the men who deserted
him. Hennepin was reluctant in accepting this
commission, not probably for want of courage, for
he more than once proved that he was not lacking in
that quality, but perhaps because the journey would
be a tedious one, and he was at the time suffer
ing from an abscess in the mouth. He offered to
exchange places with Father Menibr6, who was dis
gusted with the Illinois, and who came down to Fort
Cr6ve-coeur to pour his trials into the ears of his
brother missionaries. " This set the Father thinking,"
says Hennepin, " and he preferred to remain Avith
the Illinois, of whom he had some knowledge, rather
than expose himself to go among unknown nations."
There was then no escape, for La Salle, always it
seems harboring a little feeling of antagonism against
the self-assertive priest, threatened to write to Hen
nepin's superiors in France if he refused to obey his
Avish; Avhile the venerable Pather Ribourde, himself
one of the bravest of the band of missionaries, encour
aged his younger brother with priestly consolation.
On the twenty-ninth of February, 1680, La Salle and
the men from the fort came down to the river to bid
Hennepin and his companions farewell. By the
water's edge lay moored the birch canoe which was to
carry them through unknown dangers; its crannies
filled with hatchets and beads, as passports to the
strange tribes of the Upper Mississippi.
Hennepin embraced all the men in turn, receiving
Father Ribourde's blessing and an encouraging word
from La Salle, whom at the last he accuses of rashly
exposing his life; then, Avith a stroke of the paddles
the canoe was started down the stream and its occu
pants lost to sight.

152 tAULt iSXPLOMftS.
In the evening a party of Illinois, returning to their
village with the spoils of the hunt, startled the priest
and his companions and almost succeeded in infiu
encing Accault and Du Gay to abandon their jour
ney, but the men knew if they did this the men at
the fort would see them, and they decided to keep on
their way. Near the mouth of the river they came
to a camp of the Tamaroa and were invited to their
village on the Mississippi. Hennepin, however, pre
vailed upon the men, who intended to do some trad
ing, to wait until they reached the Upper River, and
so prevented a delay. The keen-eyed Indians had
noticed in the meantime that the Avhite men's canoe
was stored with arms for their enemies, and were
determined to get possession of them. They accord
ingly started out in pursuit; but their heavy Avooden
boats were no match for the canoe and they were
soon far behind. Resorting to another means, they
sent a party of young warriors along the shore to
intercept the white men at a narrow point. The
pursued saw their camp-fire at night, and, warned by
it, hurried to an island on the opposite side of the
river, leaving their dog in the canoe as sentinel,
while they, expecting to be followed, silently waited
for the signal to embark. Their fears were ground
less. The Indians failing to overtake them returned,
leaving them to continue their journey to the Missis
sippi, where they were detained by floating ice until
the twelfth of March.
Here the speculations regarding Hennepin's move
ments begin. In his first account, published in 1683,
he describes the journey northward, and his capture
by the Sioux, making no reference to a descent of
the river, and again in the journal published fourteen

Father touts iiEiiiirtiPiiir. i5§
years later he declares that he descended the Missis
sippi to the Gulf; although he concealed the fact, he
says, in order that La Salle, "avIio Avished to keep all
the glory and all the knoAvledge of it to himself,"
might not be offended! This remarkable voyage,
according to a coincidence of dates in the two
accounts, was made in forty-three days; but as La
Salle cautiously remarks: "It is necessary to kuoAV
him somewhat " to tell how much credence should
bo given to these declarations. It is generally
believed that the earlier work is the more reliable — that
it is even accurate — and therefore the experiences of
the eccentric priest on the Upper Mississippi may be
accepted Avith a good share of faith. Taking him at
his word then, he and his companions passed in their
upward course the rivers emptying into the main
stream from the east and west, coming at last to
the falls which he named in honor of Saint Anthony
of Padua.
The journey was not altogether one of privations.
There was an abundance of game, deer, buffalo, bear,
and wild turkey, on which they had a continual
feast; making amends for their Lenten indulgence
by saying prayers three times a day, their chief peti
tion at these times being that they might not be sur
prised by the natives at night, for with all their
courage they valued their scalps as highly as their
less venturesome brothers. This petition Avas granted
soon after their midday devotions on the eleventh of
April. A war-party of a hundred and twenty Sioux
on their way to the lower tribes suddenly came upon
them. In an instant their arrows were whirring
around them and their canoes had hemmed them in;
but the old warriors noticing the calumet which

V'^^.-fO.

HENNEPIN AT THE FALLS OF SAINT ANTHONY,

{¦AtaBJa Louts teENNEPIlfi-. 165
Hennepin held, kept the young men from violence.
The Indians then attempted to terrify the group on
the shore; some of them leaping into the water and
others darting up in their canoes, accompanying their
maneuvers with piercing yells. All this had the
desired effect. Hennepin hastened to give them
the all-powerful "tabac," and they were partially
appeased. Hearing them repeat the words Miam-
iha, Miamiha, and inferring from this that they
spoke of the Miamis, whom with the Illinois they
were about to attack, he took up a stick and "mark
ing with it on the sand attempted to explain that
the Miamis were no longer in their villages, but had
fled beyond the Mississippi; Avhereupon four old men
placed their hands on his head and began to waU.
This demonstration somewhat disturbed Hennepin,
the more so as the Indians refused to smoke his
peace-pipe. With quick thought, he drew forth a
tattered handkerchief and made a sign as if to wipe
aAvay their tears. The stolid faces showed no evi
dence of pleasure. Soon, with "yells capable of
striking the most resolute with terror," they crossed
the river, obliging Hennepin and his companions to
go with them. They then assembled in council,
while the unconscious objects of their discussion,
withdrawn a short distance from the camp, were
making their flre for supper. In the midst of these
preparations two chiefs approached to inform thera
by signs that the warriors had decided to tomahawk
them; and Hennepin, duly impressed by the infor
mation, again hastened to appease the would-be
murderers, by throwing into their midst a present of
knives, hatchets, and tobacco, and at the same time
resorting to diplomacy, took one of the hatchets.

1S6 EAtlLY EXPLOHERg.
boAved his head before the astonished Indians and by
signs gave thera to understand that they might then,
if they wished, carry out their purpose.
This pleased his audience, and although the peace-
pipe was still refused, they invited him and his com
panions to share their feast of beaver with them.
At night, anticipating trouble, Accault and Du Gay
slept on tlieir arms; but Hennepin affirms that he
took no precaution, having determined to give him
self up Avithout resistance. He bore his part in keep
ing guard, however, that the Indians niight not
surprise them while asleep.
The night at last wore away without any disturb
ance, and in the morning their fears were dispelled.
Narrhetoba, one of the Avarriors, painted from head
to foot, came to them and asked for the calumet, and
returning to his camp made all the Indians smoke;
after which he told the Avhite raen they must return
Avith thera to his country.
Hennepin was now greatly perplexed in performing
his devotions, for the Indians, watching him as he
prayed, muttered, with dark faces, " Ouackanche " —
meaning that the book out of which he read was a
spirit. Du Gay and Accault, fearing for their lives,
begged the priest to go apart to pray; "but," says
Hennepin, "the morel concealed myself, the more
I had the Indians at my heels." Resorting to another
method, he chanted his prayers aloud with the book
opened on his knee, while the canoes were in motion,
and the Indians, thinking the book made hira sing to
please thera, no longer disturbed him.
Another danger threatened them in the meantime;
for Aquipaguetin, a chief whose son had been killed
by the Miamis, was angry with the white men

FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 157
because they had prevented hira by their information
from taking his revenge. He attempted to excite
the other chiefs against thera by wailing his grief
every night; and Hennepin attributes the escape from
this danger to the fact that the Indians wished to
keep the good-will of the French, who could furnish
them with "iron that has understanding," meaning
guns and ammunition. The priest then complains of
the harsh treatment to which he and his companions
Avere subjected, and says that there was no oppor
tunity to go up or down the river to explore, as the
Indians kept a vigilant watch — thus denying his later
assertion that he descended the river to the Gulf.
Having flnally reached the end of their journey by
water, the party met to decide upon what should be
done with the Frenchmen, and at last they were dis
tributed among the three families of the tribe who
had lost children in battle. This done, their goods
were appropriated and their canoe destroyed to pre
vent their return.
When within a short distance of the village the
Frenchraen saw to their horror bunches of straw
hanging to the posts of the cabins; and taking this
as a sign that they were to perish at the stake, were
filled with apprehension. Besides they noticed that
the Indians, having painted Du Gay's face and
fastened a tuft of white feathers in his hair, made
him sing and shake a gourd filled with pebbles; but
they soon found these fears to be groundless, for they
were feasted and given the calumet to smoke.
Stimulated at last by hunger, Hennepin undertook
to master the language of his adopted people; learn
ing first their word "Taketchiabihen," or "What do
you call that," and, with the help of the children,

158 EARLY EXPLORERS.
gradually acquiring the names of the things he saw.
He also won their good-will by attempting to cure them
with a little bundle of medicines which he carried in
his sleeve.
In the early part of July the Sioux went south
ward on their annual hunting excursion, and at the
same time Hennepin and Du Gay, through the infiu
ence of a friendly chief, were allowed to descend to
the Wisconsin, where they expected to find traders
and a supply of ammunition — Du Gay and Accault
probably intending to use it to trade with the Indians
for furs. On the way down they were overtaken by
the hunters, and Aquipaguetin, who by an inexplica
ble turn of affairs had assumed the protection of
Hennepin, carae up to the priest and asked him if he
had found the Frenchmen who were to bring the sup
plies. Upon receiving an unsatisfactory answer, the
chief started on himself to the rendezvous, intending
to seize what he could; but finding no sign of the
goods or the white men he returned, thoroughly out
of humor with his adopted son, and vexed that he
had made the trip in vain.
Soon after this the hunting-camp was thrown into
a state of excitement by a report of the old men, who
as usual had been stationed on the hill-tops to keep
the watch. They had seen two warriors in the
distance, they said, which immediately started a
pursuit. Only two women of a neighboring band of Sioux,
who had strayed from their party, were overtaken, but
they said that their hunters had met five "spirits,"
meaning Europeans, near Lake Superior, who,
knowing that there were white men with this tribe,
had expressed their desire to visit them.

FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 159
On the return of the party to their northern home
these five " spirits " were met, and found to be Du
Lhut and four companions, come to explore the Great
River and to make peace with the tribes along their
route. They accompanied the Sioux back to their villages,
but as the cold months were coming, and the necessity
of staying longer practically at an end, Du Lhut and
Hennepin came together to discuss returning to
Canada. Having arranged their plans, Du Lhut
then told the Indians that the Frenchmen must leave
them. At first this announcement was received with
some opposition, but the head chief finally consented
and traced himself the route they Avere to take.
Everything being in readiness, the eight travelers
bade adieu to their Sioux friends and started back to
civilization. Descending the Mississippi as far as
the Wisconsin, they followed the course which Joliet
and Marquette had taken seven years before; down
the Fox River, across Lake Winnebago, and thence
to Lake Michigan, continuing through the chain of
lakes to the settlements in Canada. From here
Hennepin went to France, and was soon afterward
in Amsterdam with his manuscript attempting to
flnd a publisher. Failing there he went to Utrecht,
where his second journal appeared in 1697. His
later life is comparatively unknown; but from a
letter dated at Rome, 1701, he is supposed to have
been at the convent of Aracoeli, and attempting to
interest certain persons in the raission field of the
Mississippi country, "where he hoped to reneAv his
labors." As to the contradictory accounts which he
published relating to his explorations and those of
La Salle, there has been much comment, not onlyby

160

EARLY EXPLORERS.

late critics, but by the men of his time. Among the
latter he made a feeble attempt to justify himself,
but this effort was far frora convincing his accusers
then, and has even less weight now. Frora the
doubtful pages unanswered questions still arise. What
was Hennepin's real raission to the Mississippi ? Why
did he apparently avoid La Salle? And did he
actually precede the latter in the exploration of the
lower river? But with all this, the careful critic
putting the journal to the test has found one certain
truth, and the historian with impartial applause hails
the explorer of the Upper Mississippi, Father Louis
Hennepin.

> ;#ini

'hi

Mm

iv^^ S^

FATHER liEWEPlN ATHIS DEl/OTIONS.''^-"

CHAPTER X.
LA HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CAETEE.
^ITH La SaUe and Hennepin, the
exploration of the Mississippi was
practically ended, although its
farthest fountains were still undis
covered; yet, to these traveleri,
who had followed its Avinding
course of three thousand Liiles, it
had not lost the old appellation of
"the unknoAvn river of the West."
One of those to follow the great explorers in the
valley of the Great River was the Baron La Hontan,
whose accounts in his OAvn day were looked at
askance generally, and loudly disclaimed by the
Jesuits, but which have at last received a partial
justiflcation by Jean Nicollet and a few others.
On the twenty -fourth of September, 1688, when
the tragic news of La Salle's death had reached the
upper station. La Hontan left Michilimackinac on
his way to the Great River, following the route of
Joliet and Marquette, witnessing the calumet dance
in his honor at the mouth of the Fox, and passing
thence to the upper river, from which he made the
portage to the Wisconsin.
When the Mississippi was reached he went north
ward, and, as he says, entered a river coming into
Lake Pepin from the west, which he speaks of as
' ' the Long River. " At this point the critics challenge
11 (161)

163 EARLY EXPLORERS.
him. They find nothing that corresponds to his
description, and yet the Baron, unconscious of the
frowning tribunal, leads his readers up the mysteri
ous stream, past great Indian villages and through a
marvelous country in the months of November and
December, when all other rivers, of that section at
least, are sealed with ice before Christmas.
Nicollet, however, has an excuse for this. He finds
a similarity between La Hontan's " Long River" and
Cannon River, which, he says, is one of the last to
freeze, and is generally a late resort of wild fowl.
He finds, moreover, evidences of old Indian villages
along the course of this stream, by a kind of grass
that always grows whero settlements have been, but
he adds that he "does not pretend to justify La Hon
tan's gross exaggeration of the length of the river,
and of the numerous population on its banks."
Nicollet's view is no doubt a just one. La Hontan
knew that others were more or less familiar with that
part of the Mississippi which he described, and that it
would not be long before his relations would be put
to the test. Perrot had been all through the region
— that is, as far as any one had gone — and knew every
part of it; yet the discoverer of "the Long River"
did not hesitate to publish, with elaborate detail, the
account of his A'oyage.
The geographers of Europe, quick to make addi
tions to their incomplete maps of North America,
soon gave the stream a prominent place; but the
French, never over-credulous, did not accept it with
out question, and in 1716, a priest of Versailles wrote
to De L'Isle, geographer of the Academy of Sci
ences, "Would it not be well to efface that great
river which La Hontan says he discovered? All the

LA HONTAN — CHARLETOIX— CARTER. 163
Canadians, and even the Governor-general, have told
me that this river is unknown;" while Charlevoix
makes the sweeping assertion that "the episode of
the voyage up the Long River is as fabulous as the
Barrataria of Sancho Panza."
When La Hontan re-enters the Mississippi, his
account is raore charitably received. In his descent
of the river he raade a partial exploration of the Mis
souri and Saint Peter, which has placed him among
the men who first pushed beyond known boundaries,
and Avhich has won for him the honor of being the
discoverer of those two great tributaries.
Charlbtoix, a man of ability and honor, was
commissioned by the Prench governnient to visit New
France in 1721, for the purpose of describing its con
dition and possibilities. Had he not accepted this
commission. La Hontan would have had one critic
less, and Europe, figuratively on tip-toe with curios
ity, would have been deprived of one of the truest
pictures of the affairs of her sister continent; but
Charlevoix was a Jesuit, and an observer who had
already spent four years in Canada, and he did not let
pass an opportunity for wider travel.
Reaching Quebec in the spring of 1731, he began
his journey Avestward, writing at frequent intervals
to his friend the Countess Lesdigueres, who has in
turn bequeathed the letters to history. On his way
to Three Rivers he tells her that he set out from
Pointe aux Trembles "Avith a horse blind of an eye,
which he afterward exchanged for a lame one, and
then again for one that was broken-winded."
Following the route which had attracted all of the
early travelers — up the Saint Lawrence and through
the lakes — he modified, on the way, many of their

164 EARLY EXPLORERS.
wild exaggerations and added many details of his
own. On Lake Superior he learned the strange tra
ditions of the Indians in regard to the vast inland sea,
which they believed was formed by Michabon, the
god of the waters, to supply them with beaver. He
found pieces of copper on its shores, and says that one
of the priests of his order, belonging to the mission of
Saint Mary's, had found large quantities of it in so
pure a state that he was able to make ornaments of
it for the mission chapel.
From Lake Michigan he entered the Saint Joseph,
crossing to the Kankakee, and thence down to the
Mississippi, where the light birch-bark canoes were
exchanged for heavier boats; but the men, accustomed
to light paddles, made awkward work of rowing, and
PSre Charlevoix, in his hollowed-out " walnut tree,"
found it perilous, as well as interesting, to descend
the Mississippi. He enjoyed his experiences, how
ever, and wrote enthusiastic descriptions of the beau
ties of the scenery and the pleasures of unconven
tional travel, which, he said, recalled the ancient
Patriarchs, who lived in tents and had no fixed place
of abode.
During his journey down the river, Charlevoix
made frequent excursions on the tributary streams
and into the adjacent country, and, traveling thus
leisurely, reached in December the straggling huts of
New Orleans, which, viewed from Versailles by the
French Monarch and his extravagant subjects,
appeared a future center of unlimited wealth. Char
levoix himself, coming upon it at a time when
enthusiasm for its future Avas at its height, believed
that this city, "the flrst which one of the greatest
rivers of the world bas seen rise upon its banks,"

t-A tt6NtAlj^— CSARLEVblJt— 6ARtEtl. 165
" the wild and desert place still covered by canes and
trees," would one day be an opulent city and the
metropolis of a great and rich colony. This, how
ever, was his opinion when he had but entered the
place. After looking about and taking a careful
account of its position he wrote in quite another
strain. He could not see the obstacles overcome by
science after the marvelous strides of a century and a
half, nor the power of steam upon the Great River,
which would insure the prosperity of the " Crescent
City." From here he sent the last of his witty let
ters to the Countess, by whicii his personal experi
ences in the New World close. Upon his return to
Europe he published his "History of New France,"
which is valued now quite as much as when little
was known of North America, while its author will
always hold an important place in the scenes which
he describes.
After Charlevoix, Captain Jonathan Carver
was the next explorer of importance in the Valley
of the Mississippi, and the variation from the long
line of Spanish and French names which followed in
succession from the early discovery of the river, tells at
once of the great change Avhich had made the English
masters and dissolved the power of New France.
Carver himself bore arms in his country's cause,
barely escaping the massacre of Fort William Henry,
and winning his captaincy by the same spirit which
two generations before had given the governorship of
Connecticut to an ancestor.
When peace was declared, the young captain deter
mined to explore the newly acquired British posses
sions, that government might be acquainted with
their extent and condition. He also had in mind

1^6 tiAtlLY iXPLdfeitl^.
the discovery of a northwest passage between Hud
son's Bay and the Paciflc Ocean; and with these
objects in view left Boston in June, 1766. At Macki
nac the English governor of the fort gave hira a
small supply of goods for use among the Indians,
promising to send him more to Saint Anthony Falls;
and with this equipment he started with his men —
one a French-Canadian and the other a Mohawk.
As far as Prairie du Chien he had the company of
two traders, but there the party separated. Carver
going on up the river.
On the tenth day, at evening, the encampment was
made and the boats moored near the shore. As soon as
it was dark. Carver, as usual, ordered his men to take
their rest, while he sat up to write his notes by the light
of a candle. About ten o'clock, stepping out of his
tent to see what the weather was, he saw at a little dis
tance something that had the appearance of a herd
of beasts, but, unable to distinguish them in the
starlight, he stood closely watching their movements.
Suddenly one of their number raised up and disclosed
the flgure of a man. Carver, recognizing the situa
tion, gave the alarm, and his men, having snatched
their weapons, started in the direction of the boat,
toward which the savages were hurrying. "What
do you want?" called out the bold Yankee, where
upon the Indians, evidently wanting only to escape
alive from such an awe-inspiring white chief, fled
precipitately to 'the woods, where Carver gave up the
pursuit. The men were now badly frightened and
wanted to turn back, but Carver, knowing the most
effectual cure, threatened to call them "old women,"
and by his OAvn example shamed them.
Below Lake Pepin the explorer discovered a strange

LA HONTAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARTER. 167
relic of the past, which led him — as such discoveries
have led many others— to think that this continent,
whose ancient history is an unsolved mystery,
was once the home of civilized nations. He found
the grass-grown remains of a carefully constructed
intrenchment, protected in the rear by the river, and
bearing the imprint of centuries.
From here he went to Saint Anthony Falls and
then on as far as the Saint Francis, a distance which
had been reached only by Father Hennepin and him
self. Then paddling up the Saint Peter, he came to
a north branch which had not been named, and in
order to distinguish it he called it "Carver" River,
by which name it is still known.
By the seventh of December he reached the west
ern limit of his travels. Through the dishonesty of
the men intrusted with supplies from Mackinac, it 'was
impossible to go farther, and he was detained for the
winter at the Sioux village at the head of the Saint
Peter. Here he learned their language and received
the honors of a great chief, for, by a service which
he had rendered one of the "river bands," his fame
had reached the farthest lodges. The event which
had won him this distinction took place during his
ascent of the river. He was stopping a day or two
with the Indians at their encampment when some
hunters of the band announced that a Avar-party of
the Chippewas was approaching, large enough, they
said, "to swallow them all up."
The Sioux, terrified by this news, begged their
guest to lead them to battle, believing in the superior
powers of the white man; but Carver, unwilling to
antagonize the Chippewas, and yet wishing to retain
the good-will of the Sioux, knew not what to answer.

LA flOlJtAlf— CilAtlLfiTOiX— CAEtllfe. 169
In this extremity, he offered to act as mediator,
although the Indians doubted his success, as their
peace-pipes had been repeatedly disregarded. Carver,
however, started toward the enemy, as the brave
Tonty had done before him, and so completely won
over the chiefs that the war-party turned back, while
the delighted Sioux quickly decamped before the
enemy had time to repent of their action.
Early in the spring the Indians prepared to visit
the cave below the present city of Saint Paul, whicii
they called the dwelling of the Great Spirit, where
they held their councils.
On the way down the river, the party was overtaken
by a terrific storm. The Indians, terrified and imag
ining it to be a sign of the wrath of the Great Spirit,
rushed into the woods; but Carver, who had accom
panied them, afraid to be near thc trees, stood out in
an open space, while the savages looked on with
superstitious admiration.
Having been admitted to the great council at the
cave, and honored Avith the title of chief, Carver
made use of this incident to impress the minds of his
hearers. "You may remember," he said, "theday
when Ave were encamped at Wadepaw Minesoter, the
black clouds, the wind, the fire, the stupendous noise,
the horrible cracks, and the trembling of the earth,
which then alarmed you and gave you reason to think
your gods were angry with you; not unlike these are
the warlike implements of the English when they
are fighting the battles of their great King."
At this council the gift of land was supposed to
have been agreed upon which made Carver and his
heirs owners of a large tract of land on the Upper Mis
sissippi, and over which there has since been much liti-

Ito fiAKLf EXPLORERS.
gation; but, as there was not sufficient proof of such
a grant having been made; as Carver himself does not
mention it in his writings, and as the King had made
a proclamation three years before forbidding private
individuals to buy or accept land from the Indians,
the court having the case in hand settled it by resolv
ing " that the prayer of the petitioners be not
granted." The cave in which the meeting took place
is now known as "Carver's Cave."
Disappointed in not finding his supplies at the
Falls, and obliged to abandon further exploration.
Carver left his Sioux friends and started down the
river for Prairie du Chien. On the way he Avas surprised
by a party of Chippewas, and, fearing it might be
the same which had attempted to plunder him some
time before, he was inclined to avoid them; but he
knew the Indians too well to show such a disposition,
and finally crossed the river to their camp. A few of
the savages came down to the shore to meet him,
extending their hands in welcome; but back of them
stood their chief, a tall fellow, painted and tattooed,
who flercely watched the strangers. Carver, deter
mined not to betray any signs of awe, approached
this august personage and extended his hand. The
chief withheld his, and, scowling down upon the
white men, said in Chippewa, "English no good."
Carver did not like the way the Indian grasped his
tomahawk, and said he expected the laconic sentence
would be followed by a blow; but drawing his pistol
from his belt, he carelessly played with it as he passed
the chief, and in token of his fearlessness resolved to
remain with the Indians that night.
Early in the morning he continued his way to
Prairie du Chien, and having attended to his affairs

LA tt01«riAlf--C!ttAfeLEVOlX— CARTER. 171
there, re-ascended the river with the intention of
reaching Mackinac by way of Lake Superior. Enter
ing the Chippewa River, he crossed to a branch of
the Saint Croix, descended it to the fork, and thence
up another branch to the source. From here the
boats were launched on a little brook, which, strug
gling along, was gradually increased by rivulets, and
at last developed into a swift stream, and on they
paddled to the great lake.
Prom Mackinac, Carver hurried eastward, reach
ing Boston in October, 1768, from whence he sailed
for England. There he reported to the Government,
asking for reimbursements and the privilege of dis
posing of his manuscripts. The last petition was
granted, but the explorer was afterward requested to
deliver up all of his papers. This obliged him to
buy back his manuscrij)t at an advance, but no com
pensation Avas made him. He then obtained a posi
tion of clerk in a lottery office, but reverses overtook
him, and flnally, at the age of forty-eight, he died of
want in the heart of the great metropolis.
With him ends the long line of the early explorers
of the Great River. Each, looking upon the splen
did stream and the valley it enriched, had prophe
sied; but none so well as this last, who said: "There
is no doubt but that, at some future period, mighty
kingdoms will emerge from these wildernesses, and
stately palaces and solemn temples, with gilded spires
reaching to the skies, supplant the Indian huts,
whose only decorations are the barbarous trophies of
their vanquished enemies."

EXPLORERS OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.

PART SECOND.

EXPLORATION" OF THE

SUBJECTS:
Chapter Page
L EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE.... 175
II. THE CASS EXPEDITION  180
IIL BELTRAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE". 185
IV. SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA  197
V. INVESTIGATIONS OP NICOLLET  208
VI. EXPLOITS OP CHARLES LANMAN  318

CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE.
,EBULO]Sr MONTGOMERY PIKE
was the son of a captain in the Revo
lutionary army, and was the flrst
of the more recent explorers of the
Mississippi and the country border
ing upon it. He was born January
flfth, 1779, at Lambertville, New Jersey, a village
near the Delaware River, but received his education
at Easton, Pennsylvania, whither the family had pre
viously removed. At the age of twenty he became
an ensign in his father's regiment, and in 1806 had
attained the rank of captain.
After the purchase of Louisiana from the French
in 1803, General Wilkinson was appointed by the
United States Government to the military command
of the Territory, with headquarters at Saint Louis.
This immense acquisition embraced all the country
between the Mississippi River and the Rocky Mount
ains, and from the Mexican dominions on the south
to Canada on the north. A desire was soon felt
by the Government and people to learn something
of the new region, and an order Avas received by
the general commanding to detach a competent
(175)

176 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
officer for the work of exploration. Lieutenant Pike
was selected for the undertaking and ordered to pro
ceed up the Mississippi to its Headwaters, and, if
practicable, trace it to its ultimate source.
Physically and mentally. Pike was well equipped
for the work, and would probably have succeeded in
his attempt to reach the head of the river if he had been
better advised, before starting, of the difficulties he
would have to encounter. He was eager for the work
assigned him, and, with twenty men under his com
mand, left Saint Louis, the capital of the newly-
acquired Territory, August ninth, 1805, and com
raenced the ascent of the river. He labored under
great disadvantages, which materially affected the
results of his expedition. He was four months too late
in the season to reach his destination, and was with
out an aide, or even a scientiflc observer. He knew
nothing of the climate of the region he was about to
visit, and neither guide nor interpreter had been
assigned him by the authorities. That he accom
plished what he did is altogether owing to his energy,
vigilance, and enterprise, his knowledge of hunting
and forest life, and his habits of mental and military
discipline. After great labor, many adventures, and
some casualties, he reached a point one hundred and
twenty miles north of Saint Anthony Falls, and here
winter overtook hira. The absence of all preparation
against the intense cold resulted in much suffering
and danger to life. To protect himself and his men,
he devoted twelve days to the erection of a block
house as a temporary shelter, and after a short rest
for recuperation, determined on resuming his journey
up the river, which was covered with snow to a
depth of several feet. Leaving a small detachment

12

(1W>

178 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
of his disabled men and his boats in charge of a non-
coraraissioned officer at the block-house, he set forth
on roughly constructed snow-shoes, with sraall hand-
sledges, and, by great energy and perseverance,
reached, at successive periods, Sandy Lake, Leech
Lake, and ultimately advanced as far north as Upper
Red Cedar Lake, now known as Cass Lake, an expan
sion of the Mississippi, in latitude 47° 42' 30". The
whole region was covered with a mantle of snow.
Here he met sorae straggling members of the North
west Fur Company, of Montreal, who welcomed the
explorer to their winter quarters, and extended to
the party the usual hospitality to travelers.
Pike explained that the object of his visit was to
discover the Source of the Mississippi, and was in
formed by the fur traders that the extreme Head of
the river was in Turtle Lake, in conflrmation of which
they produced a roughly-sketched map of the section.
Believing that he had now accomplished the object
of his mission, he made no further effort in that
direction, but prepared for a speedy return to Saint
Louis. Nine months had elapsed since leaving its
genial climate for the frozen North, during which
interval he and his party of sturdy soldiers had under
gone mnch suffering from the rigor of the long-
continued winter — intensified by the absence of prep
aration in the shape of warm clothing and a proper
supply of food.
The narrative of the Pike expedition was not pub
lished until 1810, in which Turtle Lake is assumed to
be the Source of the Great River, which, however,
has been conclusively disproved by more recent
explorers. In 1806-7, Pike was again despatched by the Gov-

EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE. 179
ernment on a geographical exploration over parts of
the immense Territory of Louisiana, in the course
of which he reached the front range of the Rocky
Mountains, and discovered what is known as Pike's
i'eak, 14,336 feet in height above the sea, on the
summit of which there is now a United States signal
station. The headwaters of the Rio Grande River
were also reached. He was here taken prisoner by
the Spaniards for beiug found on Spanish territory,
and conveyed to Santa F6, now the capital of New
Mexico, where all his papers were seized; but, after
trial, he was released and ordered to leave the coun
try. He reached Nachitoches, about twenty-five
miles from the Texas line, July first, 1807, and
received the thanks of the Government for his enter
prise and successful labors. As a reward he was
promoted frora the rank of major, in the following
year to that of lieutenant-colonel, and in 1813, to
that of assistant quartermaster-general.
In 1813, Pike was appointed to the command of
an expedition against York, Upper Canada. He
reached York with the fleet conveying the troops for
the attack. The general, with the main body, landed,
and the enemy falling back before hira, he captured
the main redoubt and halted his men. While Gen
eral Pike and many of his soldiers were resting on
their arras, preparatory to an attack on the next
redoubt, the magazine of the fort exploded, and,
being fatally injured, he survived but a few hours.
He died April twenty-seventh, 1813, and bears the
reputation of a brave and zealous officer.

CHAPTER II.
THE CASS EXPEDITION.
fFTER an interval of nearly fifteen years,
the enterprising soldier and states
man. General Cass, Governor of
Michigan Territory, tendered his
services to the Governraent as an
explorer in the little-known region
of the Great Lakes and the Head
waters of the Mississippi, pre
viously visited by Pike.
Lewis Cass was born in Exeter, New Hampshire,
October ninth, 1783. He was the eldest son of Jona
than Cass, a captain in the Continental Army during
the War of the Revolution. On the conclusion of
peace with England, he was promoted to the rank of
major and assigned to General Wayne's command,
then in the territory northwest of the Ohio. Lewis
remained with the family in Exeter and attended the
academy. Major Cass, in 1799, removed his family
to Wilraington, Delaware, in which town Lewis be
carae a successful school-teacher.
The following year found the major and his family
on their way to the West. They descended the Ohio
from Pittsburg in a flat-boat, and traveled on foot for
many miles. They reached Marietta, the pioneer
town of Southern Ohio, in October, 1800, and near
here the family settled upon a tract of land granted
Major Cass by the Government in consideration of
C180)

THE CASS EXPEDITION. 181
his military service. The site was on Muskingum
River, near Zanesville. Lewis, however, remained at
Marietta and studied law in the office of Governor
Meigs. He was admitted to the bar in 1803, and
began practice in Zanesville. He married Elizabeth
Spencer, of Virginia, in 1806, and shortly after
became a raember of the Ohio Legislature.
The supposed treasonable movements of Aaron Burr
were at this period a source of uneasiness to the Gov
ernment, and Lewis Cass, being on the committee ap
pointed by the local Legislature to inquire into Burr's
proceedings, framed a law authorizing the authorities
to arrest the men and capture the material provided
for their expedition down the Ohio. He also drew up
an official communication to the President, express
ing the views of the Ohio Legislature on the subject
of Burr's designs and movements. President Jeffer
son's attention was attracted to this able document,
and he appointed the author marshal of the State.
On the breaking out of the second war with England,
in 1813, Cass joined the forces at Dayton under the
command of General Hull, with the rank of colonel
of the Third Ohio Volunteers, proceeding at once to
Detroit. When the army crossed the Detroit River
into Canada, Colonel Cass was in command of the
advance guard, and drove in the British outposts.
Shortly after this. General Hull surrendered to the
enemy, and Cass was included in the capitulation and
paroled. He forthwith proceeded to Washington and
reported the surrender to the Government. He was
soon exchanged as a prisoner on parole, and was at
once appointed to the Twenty-seventh Regiment of
Infantry, and, shortly afterward, promoted to the
rank of brigadier-general.

183 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
At the close of the campaign, General Cass was
placed in comraand of the Territory of Michigan,
with headquarters at Detroit. He also received the
appointment of Civil Governor of the Territory.
In 1814, Governor Cass, associated with General
Harrison, was authorized to treat with the Indians of
Michigan, who had been hostile to the United States
during the war. The greater part of Michigan was
at this period a vast wilderness, inhabited by about
flfty thousand savage Indians. No surveys had been
raade and no roads had been opened, the Indians
being relentless in their hostility to any encroach
ment of the whites, who numbered only some flve or
six thousand, inclusive of the settlers in Detroit.
Under these discouraging circumstances, Cass as
sumed the responsibilities of Governor and Superin
tendent of Indian affairs in the Territory.
The Northwestern Territory was, up to this period,
imperfectly known, and, at the suggestion of Gov
ernor Cass, an expedition was organized in 1830, in
which he himself bore a conspicuous part. Accom
panied by Schoolcraft, the geologist and ethnol
ogist, and six other gentlemen, with Indian guides,
they embarked on the twenty-fourth of May, at
Detroit, in three large canoes, for the exploration of
the Great Lakes and the Headwaters of the Mississippi.
The nearest approach they made to the Source of the
Great River was at Upper Cedar Lake, subsequently
named Cass Lake, about tAvo hundred miles to the
north of the lake now recognized as the True Head.
Before returning to Detroit, the expedition had
traversed five thousand miles of the Northwestern
country. General Cass was appointed Secretary of War by

CASS EXPEDITION LEAVING DETROIT,

184 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
President Jackson in 1831, and during his incum
bency the Black Hawk War occurred. In 1836, he
submitted an elaborate report to Congress upon the
military defenses of the United States, and shortly
after resigned his secretaryship and was appointed
United States minister to France. In January, 1845,
he was elected a member of the United States Sen
ate, and was subsequently re-elected for a second
term. He was a prorainent candidate for the Presi
dency, but was unsuccessful. In Mr. Buchanan's
administration he became Secretary of State. During
the Civil War his sympathies were with the North,
and his life was spared to witness the ultimate
triumph of the Government over a rebellion that for
a time threatened its existence.
General Cass was a scholar of fine attainments
and a prudent and cautious legislator. He was also
personally popular throughout the country. He pub
lished several works, among them, "Inquiries Con
cerning the History, Traditions, and Languages of
the Indians Living within the United States," and
"France, Its King, Court, and Government." He
died at Detroit, January seventeenth, 1866, at the
age of eighty-four.

CHAPTER III.
BELTRAMI AND THB "JULIAN SOURCE."
jIAOOMO Constantino Beltrami, a native
of Bergamo, in the Republic of Venice,
son of Giambattista and Catterina Bel
trami, was born in 1779, the youngest
of ten children. His father held an
infiuential position as Chief of the Cus
toms of the Republic, and the youngest
son was educated for the law. At the
age of twenty-eight he was appointed judge of the
Court at Udine. By untiring zeal he gained the ap
probation of the Government, and was promoted to
the office of judge of the Civil and Criminal Court.
The extraordinary energy and capacity shown by hira
in certain important matters of state led the Minister
of Justice to write and compliment him on his suc
cess, at the same time predicting his elevation to the
President's chair of the Court, for which he had
already been proposed to the French Emperor. This
promise, however, was never realized, the Empire
having met with severe reverses which crippled its
exercise of authority over the foreign states annexed
to France. In some way it was, moreover, strongly
suspected that Beltrami had become involved in the
political schemes of the Carbonari — a powerful secret
society pervading Europe — whose aim was the
destruction of the Empire and the deposition of ail
(ISE)

186 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
despots. In deference to the French, he was ordered
into exile without trial. This was in 1831.
Beltrami had a passion for the acquisition of lan
guages, both ancient and modern, and while still
young had become familiar with Latin and Greek
literature, and also with several modern languages.
Frank and faithful in his intercourse with men, he
was an enemy to all kinds of fiattery and obsequious
ness, and was, at the sarae time, capable of great
self-denial for the sake of principle. He was Avell
known to be a patriot, and had suffered persecution,
ending in expatriation, to which latter he submitted
without complaint, but loving his country none the
less. On quitting his native land, he traveled through
Prance, England, and Germany, and made many
friends among the literati of the continent, and, in
1833, crossed the ocean to the United States. At
this period he was about forty-four years of age.
Finding himself now in the New World, with
whose history he was entirely familiar, parts of which,
he soon learned, were still little known to the inhab
itants, his mind turned to travel and exploration.
The Valley of the Mississippi was a point of great
interest to him, and, desiring to know more concern
ing it than he could gather from books, he proceeded
to Pittsburg, descended the Ohio River in company
with Major Talioferra — a fellow-countryman long
settled in America, an officer in the United States
army, and agent for Indian affairs on the Upper Mis
sissippi — and embarked with hira for Fort Snelling,
Minnesota, which they reached May twentieth, 1833.
It was his wish to accompany Major Talioferra up the
River Saint Peter, at that time unexplored, with the

BELTRAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE." 187
intention of proceeding farther toward the Head
waters of the Mississippi. " Major Talioferra," says
Beltrami, in ' A Pilgrimage in Europe and America,'
"had led rae to entertain the hope that we should
have proceeded together up the River Saint Peter,
which has never yet been explored, the source
of which is occupied by the most wild and powerful
tribes of Sioux, and, as yet, only vaguely defined,
while the surrounding territory abounds in buffalo.
It was my intention to proceed thence to the sources
of the Mississippi, whicii are still absolutely unknown.
" Thwarted in my project, I was on the point of
changing my direction for the south, intending to
traverse by land, with a Canadian interpreter and an
Indian guide, the desert tracts which separate Fort
Snelling from Council Bluffs. But at this period.
Major Long, of the United States Topographical
Engineers, arrived at the Fort, charged with an expe
dition to the northern boundary of the vast empire
of the United States. I participated in the very
great surprise manifested by the Port at the arrival
of an expedition so completely unknown to the
garrison." Beltrami's great desire of pushing his rambles far
ther north was mentioned to Major Long, and the
former asked permission to accompany the expedition
simply in the character of a foreigner who was anx
ious to see the country and to study the Indian char
acter. An attempt was made to dissuade him from
this. The sufferings and dangers he would have to
encounter were set before him, but at these he simply
laughed as childish terrors. Continuing he says:
" They next attacked me on what they thought my
weak side — my purse. After so long a digression

188 EXPLORATION OF THB UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
from my original route, which was to lead rae direct
frora Philadelphia to New Orleans, it might reasonably
be supposed to be rather in a declining state; the
more so, as the curiosities I had bought of the savages
had greatly contributed to diminish its contents.
But a little fund which I kept in reserve disconcerted
this attack also. I even sacrificed ray beautiful
repeater, that I might leave this still untouched, and
bought a horse, and all provisions that were said to be
necessary, with the proceeds. When they saw I Avas
determined to go, the amiable Snelling family
carried their politeness so far as to ofler rae pecuniary
assistance, with the most honorable and disinterested
confidence, a thing by no means common, especially
toward a person of whom they knew nothing but what
they had seen."
The expedition of Major Long consisted of himself
as chief, an astronomer, a mineralogist, a physician,
a zoologist, an artist, an interpreter for the Sioux, a
young Canadian interpreter for the Algonquin lan
guage, twenty-eight troopers, one officer, and Mr.
Snelling, son of Colonel Snelling, coramandant of the
Port. "So many imaginary difficulties," says Beltrami,
' ' were not auspicious. I foresaw all the vexations I
should have to experience. * * * ^j intention
of going in search of the real sources of the Missis
sippi was always before my eyes. I was therefore
obliged to sacrifice my pride, and my feeling of what
was due to me, to the desire of seeing places Avhich
one can hardly expect to visit twice in one's life, and
of gaining information one can gain nowhere else;
and I gave myself up to all I foresaw I should have
to endure from littleness and jealousy."

BELTRAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE." 189
Beltrami was possessed of a restless and adventur
ous spirit, and accordingly made his arrangements,
despite all discouragement, to accompany Major
Long's expedition through Northern Minnesota to
Pembina, on the Red River of the North. They left
Fort Snelling on the evening of July seventh, 1833.
The expedition was divided into two bodies, one of
which went by land with twenty horses; the other
embarked in five Indian canoes on the River Saint
Peter. "The Major traveled by canoe," says Bel
trami, "and I followed him, with the intention of
going sometimes by water and sometimes by land
according to the curious or interesting objects either
route might offer." It was arranged that the two
divisions should meet every evening.
The first evening the entire party encamped on the
southern bank of the Saint Peter, near the village of
the chief. Black Dog, which Beltrami visited, but
found vacant. "Hunger had roused these savages,"
he says, "from their habitual indolence, and had
driven them away to hunt deer and buffalo in more
distant forests and prairies. A hut, which was shut
and which I opened, afforded me some shelter from
the mosquitoes, which attacked me on every side.
Behind the door I found, hung like a curtain, a deer
skin, which the savages doubtless looked upon as the
guardian mamtou of their dwelling. * * * ^g
dined at the Prairie des Fraugois, so called from the
first Frenchmen who pushed their discoveries from
Canada to this spot, where they were all killed by the
Indians." Proceeding up the Saint Peter, when sixty
miles from the Port the travelers by canoe encount
ered a violent rapid, and Avere compelled to disem
bark and drag their canoes through the water. It is

190 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
described as a most romantic spot. "Rocks, pictur
esquely grouped, between which the winding stream
rushes and breaks with violence; a little woody island
in the middle; banks clothed with stately trees on the
one side, and broken into steep and rugged rocks on
the other, composed a varied and interesting picture,
to which I contrived to add a touch of the grotesque.
Being obliged to get on board the canoe to cross a
deep gulf, my sailors were so deficient, either in
strength or in skill, that they suffered it to be carried
away and dashed in pieces against a rock, upon which
I remained perched."
In the evening the expedition halted at an Indian
encampment, and Beltrami, always observant, wit
nessed what he calls a most curious contrast. "A
woman in the deepest affliction was tearing off her
hair, which she offered as a sacrifice to the spirit of
some dead relative, whose lifeless remains were
stretched upon a rude scaffold, while a group of sav
ages were eating, drinking, singing, and dancing
around another dead body, exposed in the same man
ner to the view of passers-by."
July thirteenth they all proceeded by land. One
of the interpreters pointed out the direction in which
the Blue Earth River falls into the Saint Peter.
"This was the highest point of the Saint Peter
reached by Father Hennepin. The Blue Earth River
is very celebrated among the Indians. They perform
an annual pilgriraage to it to collect the blue earth off
its banks, of which they make dye and paint."
Lake Traverse was reached July twenty-fourth —
two hundred and eighty miles north-northwest of
Fort Snelling. It is on one of the highest plateaus
of North America. "It has no tributary streams,"

BELTRAMI AND THB "JULIAN SOURCE." 191
Beltrami asserts, " and no one knows whence it
derives its waters. " Its length is about eighteen miles
and its width about four railes.
The party took leave of Lake Traverse with a salute
of rausketry. The country around was all prairie,
and the buffaloes appeared for the first time in large
numbers, one of which was shot by Beltrami.
On July thirty-first, the expedition reached the Red
River, which descends from the eastward through
a lake of the same narae. To quote Beltrami:
"Geographers tell us that it takes its appellation
from the red sand or gravel which covers its bed;
but there is nothing red about it. The origin of
its name is widely different. The river and the
lake form the frontier line which separates the ter
ritory of the Sioux from that of the Chippewas. It
may be easily imagined that the waters of a stream
so situated must have often been ' red Avith the blood
of the slain,' and that it has thus received from both
the contending parties the name of the Bloody
River. The lake is in like manner called the Bloody or
Red Lake."
On August third the expedition arrived at the cel
ebrated colony of Pembina, founded by the Earl of
Selkirk — two hundred and sixty miles from Lake
Traverse. Altogether dissatisfied with his surroundings, Bel
trami left the colony on the ninth in company with
an interpreter and two Chippewas. He traveled in a
southeasterly direction, and on the fourth day killed
two white bears. " The white bear," he asserts, " is
the only wild beast of these regions that is danger
ous. He always attacks the traveler. The black
bear is timid, and, on the approach of man, betakes

193 EXPLORATION OF THB UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
himself to flight. He feeds entirely on fruits during
summer and autumn. When the cold weather com
mences he hides himself in the hollow of some tree
or in a hole he digs for himself in the earth. Here
he remains completely motionless for the whole win
ter." On the fifth day out from Pembina, still proceed
ing in a southeasterly direction, Beltrami and his
companions arrived at Robber's River, which, he
explains, was so named because a Sioux, in his fiight
frora the vengeance which had been pronounced
against him for murder, kept himself concealed, and
robbed on this spot for several years, escaping the
observation of his persecutors and eneraies, by whom
he was surrounded.
The interpreter was compelled to leave him here,
and he was therefore alone with the two Indians.
These also shortly left, to proceed to their destinations.
This occurred on August fifteenth. After encount
ering many difficulties and dangers, pulling his canoe
up the stream — as he was unable to handle the paddle
with the dexterity required — he met, on the morning
of the eighteenth, two canoes filled with Indians,
including women and children, and persuaded one of
the men to accompany him as far as Red Lake. On
reaching the lake, another interpreter joined him— •
the son of a Canadian fur trader and an Indian woman.
His hut was twelve miles distant, which they reached
ou the twenty-first.
Having rested a few days with the Canadian, Bel
trami left Red Lake on the morning of the twenty-
sixth, in the direction of Great Portage River. This
stream, he says, is so called by the Indians because a
dreadful storm that occurred on it blew down a vast

13

(198)

194 EXPLORATION OF THB UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
number of forest trees on its banks, which perfectly
obstructed its channel, and so impeded its navigation
by canoes as to make an extensive, or "great port
age," necessary. This impediment, however, does
not appear to have existed at the time of Beltrami's
visit, as he embarked in his canoe and proceeded up
its current. He crossed two lakes formed by the
river in its course, each about five or six miles in cir
cumference. To these lakes he gave the name of the
Lakes of Wild Rice. After proceeding five or six
miles farther — always in a southerly direction — he
entered a large lake, or expansion of the river,
with a circumference of twenty miles. This lake, he
states, is situated at a very short distance from high
lands, which divide the waters flowing northward
from those which take a southerly direction. He at
length reached the source of the Red River, which, he
says, "springs out of the ground in the raiddle of a
small prairie." * * * " A small hill overhangs the
source, and I am now," he exclaims, " on the highest
land of North America. Casting my eye around, I
perceive the flow of waters — to the south toward the
Gulf of Mexico; to the north toward the Frozen Sea;
on the east to the Atlantic, and on the west toward
the Pacific Ocean. A platform crowns this supreme
elevation, and, what is still more astonishing, in the
midst of it rises a lake. The source of the Red River
is at the foot of the hill, and filtrates in a direct line
from the north bank of the lake. On the other side
of the hill, toward the south, and equally at the foot
of the hill, other sources form a beautiful little
basin about eighty feet in circumference. These
waters filtrate from the lake on the top of the hill
toward its southwestern extremity. These sources are

BELTRAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE." 195
the actual sources of the Mississippi. This lake,
therefore, supplies the most southern source of Red
or Bloody River, and the most northern source of the
Mississippi — sources until now unknown. The small
lake has no surface issue and no inlet. Its waters
boil up in the raiddle. All my sounding lines have
been insufficient to ascertain its depth. The lake is
about three miles round. It is formed in the shape
of a heart. I have given it the name of a respected
lady, and have called it Lake Julia; and the sources
of the two rivers, the Julian source of the Red River,
and the Julian source of the Mississippi — which,
in the Algonquin language, means Father of Waters.
" The Julian source of the Mississippi runs directly
south by a narrow stream of three miles' length into
Turtle Lake. If I had not been afraid of adventuring
my canoe amidst the almost impassable brambles and
brushwood, I should have commenced the navigation
of the river from the very spot on which it springs.
The famous Mississippi, whose course is said to be
three thousand miles, and which bears navies on its
bosom, and steamboats superior in size to frigates, is,
at its source, merely a petty stream of crystalline
water, concealing itself among reeds and wild rice,
which seem to exult over its humble birth."
Beltrami did not visit Lake Itasca. He says it was
called by the Indians " Biche Lake," from the French
Lac la Biche or Elk Lake. This lake, he asserts on
the authority of others, is the western source of the
Mississippi. We may here observe that the Lake Julia of Bel
trami is not recognized by geographers as possessing
any valid or reasonable title to be considered the
Source of the Mississippi. The stream flowing from it

196 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
is merely an affluent of the Great River, entering it
over three hundred railes below Lake Itasca. It was
shown by Schoolcraft that Lake Itasca was at least
one hundred miles more distant from the mouth of
the Mississippi than Lake Julia. Beltrami's enthu
siasra led him into an error which is not surprising,
as little or nothing was known of the region he trav
ersed, at the period of his journey south from Pem
bina. In common with Pike, Cass, Schoolcraft,
Nicollet, and others, he fully believed in his alleged
discovery, which more modern investigation, how
ever, has disproved.
On his return, travel-worn, from the Upper Mis
sissippi, in the autumn of 1834, he decided to visit
New Orleans, in which city he remained for a time,
preparing an account of his travels and discoveries
for the press. Frora New Orleans he embarked for
Mexico, and traversed that country from east to
west, after which he returned to the United States
and proceeded to Philadelphia. Here arrangeraents
were made for the publication of his book. Return
ing to England shortly after, his other works were
given to the press in London.
The last years of the life of Beltrami were spent
on his estate in Italy, surrounded by friends. His
height was six feet, and it is said he was proud of
bearing, high-spirited, but always the gentleman.
His death occurred in February, 1855, at the age of
seventy-five years.

CHAPTER IV.
SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA.
^ENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT, who
succeeded General Cass in Missis
sippi exploration, was born in Albany
County, New York, March twenty
eighth, 1793, during the seconc
presidential term of Washington.
His great-grandfather on the paternal side was James
Calcraf t, an Englishman, who, in the reign of George
II., embarked with a detachment of troops intended
to act against the French in Canada.
At the conclusion of the campaign he remained in
America, settled in Albany County, and for raany
years conducted a school in this settlement. For
some unknoAvn reason he changed his family name
from Calcraft to Schoolcraft, by which he was known
for some time before his dea,th, which took place at
the great age of one hundred and two years. His
son Lawrence was the father of Henry, whose youth
was spent in the village of Hamilton, about thirty
miles from Utica. As a boy he showed an inclination
for study, and while at Middlebury College he gave
much attention to the various branches of science,
more especially chemistry, mineralogy, geology, and
ethnology. In 1817, at the age of twenty-four, he was led by a
spirit of enterprise to the Valley of the Mississippi,
traveling through Missouri and Arkansas. During
(197)

198 EXPLORATION 6E THE UPPEft MISSISSIPPI.
this journey he collected a large number of geolog
ical and mineralogical specimens. In 1819 he pub
lished a work on the mines and mineral resources of
Missouri, and proceeded to Washington, where he
Avas favorably received by President Monroe, and by
Calhoun and Crawford, members of the Cabinet.
Secretary Calhoun, who was struck by the earnest
ness of his vicAvs and scientific attainments, offered
him the situation of geologist and mineralogist to an
exploring expedition which the War Department was
about to dispatch to the Headwaters of the Missis
sippi River under the leadership of General Cass.
The point of embarkation of this expedition was at
Detroit, where the Indian canoes were secured which
were to be the chosen conveyances.
At four o'clock on the afternoon of the twenty-
fourth of May, 1830, the small fleet was in readiness,
and in the midst of an interested assemblage the
voyageurs, with a swift stroke of their paddles,
pushed away from shore, chanting one of their ani
mated boat songs.
From Lake Saint Clair the expedition moved along
the southern shore of Lakes Huron and Superior, up
the Saint Louis River, and by the Savannah to the
Mississippi, which was ascended as far as Upper Red
Cedar Lake, named by Schoolcraft, in honor of their
leader, " Cassina," and which, he says in 1830, " may
be considered the true source of the Mississippi River,
although the greatest body of water is said to come
down the Leech Lake Branch."
One night was spent on the shore of Cass Lake,
and, as it was impracticable, at that season of the
year, to go farther, preparations were made to embark
before daylight the next morning, the twenty-second

SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 199
of July — the very day on which, sixty-one years later,
my exploring party stood upon the solitary shores of
the lake beyond Itasca, and knew it to be indeed the
True Source of the Great River.
From Cass Lake the party descended the river to
the Wisconsin, where Schoolcraft obtained permission
from the Governor to go down to the lead mines of
Dubuque. Rejoining his companions, the journey
was comraenced to Green Bay, where the party sepa
rated, the Governor and his escort going on to
Detroit, while a detachment under Captain Douglas
went around Lake Michigan to make a topographical
survey. The information obtained by this expedition
concerning the condition of the Indians, the natural
history and mineralogy of the region along the
Upper Lakes made a valuable addition to the popu
lar knowledge of the Northwestern frontier, while,
with the treaty concluded at the Sault, the safety of
the country was made much more secure.
Again, in 1830, Schoolcraft was commissioned to
lead an expedition into the Upper Mississippi Valley
to attempt a reconciliation between the Sioux and
Chippewas, who had renewed their old hostilities; but
these instructions did not reach him at the Sault
until August, and he reported that it was then too
late to undertake such an enterprise, as the Indians
would have gone to their hunting-grounds, and a
return would be prevented by the frozen streams.
The following year these instructions were repeated,
and arrangements for it were completed at Saint
Mary's. A geologist and botanist accompanied the
expedition, and the small body of military were
under the command of Lieutenant Robert E. Clary.
At this time Schoolcraft crossed the "lead mine"

^00 EXPLORATION OE THE trPPER MISSISSIPPI.
country, carefully following trails, intercepting war
parties, and enforcing the peace policy of the Gov
ernment. It W£is evident that measures should
iraraediately be taken to quell the discontent rising
among the different tribes, and a report to this effect
was sent to Washington. Mr. Calhoun, Secretary of
War, approved of this suggestion, and Schoolcraft
was again put in charge of an expedition which was
to ascertain the condition and sentiment of the tribes
of the Upper Mississippi.
A small body of infantry, commanded by Lieuten
ant Jaraes Allen, escorted the party, and a represen
tative of the Araerican Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions joined the expedition to discover
the needs of the Indians of the region.
From Saint Mary's the same course was followed
as in the expedition of 1830. At Sandy Lake a
council of the lower tribes was called and an appoint
ment made to meet them again at the River Des
Corbeau, and having sent a boat laden with presents
and supplies down the Mississippi to await his return,
Schoolcraft went on to Cass Lake, from which point
he intended to prosecute his explorations about the
Head of the Mississippi, which ho had learned, since the
expedition of 1830, was to be found beyond Cass Lake.
On one of the larger islands of this lake, called
Grand Island, there was a Chippewa settlement, of
which Ozawindib was chief; and, as the place was
favorable for a camp, most of the raen were left
here in charge of an offlcer, while the explorers of the
party, embarked in light canoes and proceeded in
search of the "source" of the river. Ozawindib
volunteered to guide the party.
Passing westward from Cass Lake the chief brought

SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 301
the party to the junction of the East and West forks
of the river, but instead of following the larger
stream Avhich leads directly to Lake Itasca he pushed
his canoe into the milder current of the East Fork,
and down this the voyagers paddled.
A miserable night was spent on the low shore of
this stream and a day of hard paddling followed;
incidents which can only be appreciated by those Avho
have had similar experiences.
The region, rich in garae, kept the men supplied,
and a deer was killed beyond Lake Plantagenet;
"but we were impelled forward by higher objects
than hunting," writes Schoolcraft, and adds: "It
was, indeed, geographical and scientiflc facts that Ave
were hunting for. To trace to its source an impor
tant river, and to fix the actual point of its origin,
furnished the mental stimulus which led us to care
but little where we slept or what we ate."
On the thirteenth of June the source of the East
Fork was reached. From here the portage was com
menced over the highlands which surround the
remoter lakes. The journey now became more diffi
cult. An Indian trail was found with the usual
signs of camps along its route.
Just below the highlands breakfast was prepared,
as the men had not broken their fast since starting
upon the trail at dawn, yet in their eagerness to move
forward the journey was soon resumed and the labo
rious tramp through thicket and marsh begun.
With a canoe on his back, Ozawindib led the way,
the voyageurs and members of the expedition follow
ing. Gradually the ground began to rise, the under
brush became less dense, and Ozawindib, throwing
the canoe from his shoulders, sat down and lit his

^0^. EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
pipe in token that the first " Onwaybee," or rest, was
reached. At the summit of the last hill, Schoolcraft,
who had been keeping close at the chief's heels, ran
ahead of him, and, as he says, "got the first glimpse
of the glittering nymph we had been pursuing."
As there was no time to lose, owing to the pressing
engagement made by Schoolcraft to meet Indians in
council on the twenty-fourth of July, at the mouth
of Crow Wing River, a small fire was at once made
on the beach for the Indians to melt their pitch and
repair the canoes. This done, all re-embarked and
paddled for an island in the center of the lake which
they had now entered. This island has since been
named after Schoolcraft.
Twenty-eight years before, the fur trader, William
Morrison, had built his cabin on this island, but at
that time the question of the- Source of the river had
not assumed any especial importance, being generally
understood to lie somewhere among the upper lakes.
When, therefore, his successor made known the
importance of this "glittering nymph," which he
had named Itasca, he was given the credit of its
discovery, since Morrison, either from neglect or
indifference, had made no mention of it. School
craft's own description of the lake as he saw it at this
memorable time, is most graphic: " There was not a
breath of wind. We often rested to behold the scene.
It is not a lake overhung by rocks. Not a precipice
is in sight, or a stone, save the pebbles and boulders
of the drift era which are scattered on the beach. The
water-fowl, whom we disturbed in their seclusion,
seemed rather loath to fly up. At one point we
observed a deer standing in the water and stooping
down, apparently to eat the moss."

From Photograph by i\ J. Trost.

SOUTHERN END OF LAKE ITASCA.

304 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
Itasca is indeed a most beautiful and tranquil sheet
of water, and characteristically different from the lake
beyond, which impresses the beholder, not with its
tranquillity, but with a certain wild and rugged soli
tude, perhaps more imposing to a lover of sterner
aspects. At their island camp the travelers busied them
selves Avith their different occupations; Schoolcraft
studying the geology, the botanist examining the
plants, while Lieutenant Allen made a rough map of
the lake. Having faith in the descriptions of his
guide, the explorer believed that an arra of the lake
stretched southward, receiving a small brook at its
extremity, but owing to the limitation of tirae, and
to an apparent reliance upon Ozawindib as a topog
rapher, no attempt Avas made to verify this fact or
even to coast the shores. Before tents were struck
in the afternoon, Schoolcraft directed a flag to be
hoisted, and having made a cursory examination,
the party embarked and proceeded down the West
Fork of the river, en route to Cass Lake.
Here Ozawindib was dismissed, and the original
party left in camp on Grand Island, joined the expe
dition. Having returned to Leech Lake, Flat-Mouth
entertained them, and at the council which Schoolcraft
called there, represented the warriors of his tribe.
In the course of his remarks this formidable Chip
pewa handed the "White Chief" a bundle of forty-
three small sticks. "This is the number of Leech
Lake Chippewas killed by the Sioux since the treaty
of Prairie-du-Chien," then, lifting up a string of
silver medals, smeared with vermilion, he continued,
" Take notice, they are bloody. I wish you to wipe
the blood ofl, I can not do it. I find myself in a war

SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 205
with this people, and I believe it has been intended
by the Creator that we should be at war with them.
My warriors are brave; it is to them that I owe
success." This speech evinced the feelings of the Indians at
the time of Schoolcraft's visit to the Headwaters of
the Mississippi. The explorer hiraself alludes with
evident forebodings to the uprising under Black
Hawk on Rock River, and found it necessary to
raake as iraposing a display as possible of the small
force with him. Several days later the rendezvous
at the mouth of Crow Wing River was reached, the
council held, and the usual policy observed.
In 1833 Schoolcraft was appointed Indian Agent
for the tribes of the Lake Region, and established his
headquarters at Mackinaw, where the following year
he married the grand-daughter of a noted Ojibway
chief, who had received her education in Europe.
At the time of his journey to Lake Itasca he was a
member of the Michigan Legislature, and was subse
quently made Assistant Superintendent of Indian
Affairs. In 1845, he was designated, by the New
York Legislature, a commissioner to take the census
of the Indians in the State, and collect information
concerning the Six Nations, and having performed
this task to the satisfaction of the authorities, he
was authorized by Congress to obtain reports relating
to all the Indian tribes of the country and to collate
and edit the results of his labors. The remaining
years of his life were spent in this work. He was
elected a member of several scientific societies in this
country and Europe; the degree of LL. D. being
conferred on him by the University of Geneva. He
is the author of thirty-one Avorks treating of various

306 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
branches of science in connection with his extended
explorations through various sections of the country.
He is also the author of several poems of merit,
lectures, and nuraerous reports on Indian subjects.
In 1853 his Indian wife died, and five years later
he raarried Miss Mary Howard of Beaufort, South
Carolina; a highly educated and accomplished woman,
who became his assistant and amanuensis during the
preparation of his last work when he was helpless
with paralysis.
The early period at which Schoolcraft entered the
field of observation as a naturalist, the enterprise and
interest he manifested from the outset in the geology
and geography of the Great West, and his subsequent
researches as an ethnologist in investigating the
Indian languages and history, entitle hira to the
highest consideration. No explorer has done raore
than he to enlighten the nation on matters of the
greatest importance connected especially with the
Great Lakes and the Mississippi Valley. He was an
example of what talent and zeal united with energy
of character may accomplish in the cause of letters
and science by the mere force of application, without
the advantages of hereditary wealth, the impulse of
patronage, or the prestige of early academical honors.
We are indebted to him for our first accounts of
the mineral wealth of the great valley beyond the
AUeghenies, and he approached more nearly to the
True Source of the Great River of North America than
any of his predecessors. His error in supposing that
he had reached the Source of the Mississippi can not
be placed to his discredit, as circumstances beyond
his control prevented the consummation of his efforts.
He pursued the stream to the points at which it had

SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA.

307

been explored in 1805 by Lieutenant Pike, and in
1830 by General Cass, and reached Lake Itasca, July
twenty-first, 1833. In the following year he published
the account of his discovery.
In 1841, he removed from his Northwestern resi
dence at the Sault, to the city of New York, and in
the following year visited England, France, Germany,
Prussia, Belgium, and Holland.
Twenty years were still left him in which to enjoy
the deserved appreciation of his labors and the
benefits of his wide travels. He died in Washington,
December tenth, 1864, at a time when the capital
was in a ferment over the Civil War; but his person
ality Avas not lost in the nation's sorrow, for as long as
the great North American River has a history, the
discoverer of Itasca will not be forgotten.

SCHOofcR'AFT ISLANEf; ;<'''--''''^'f,,:^

CHAPTER V.
INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET.
|N his own country this scholarly explorer
left some trace of his abilities; yet only
such as would make him known in the
circle in which he moved — the circle
of the scholar and the man of science.
At Ohises, in Savoy, where he was born
in 1786, Nicollet began life as a farmer
boy, working in the fields and leading the coavs to
pasture; but the turning point came when, at tAvelve
years, he commenced to read. From this tirae he
made such rapid progress, that he soon entered the
college of his native place, finishing his course there
with such success that he was able at its completion
to take the assistant professorship of mathematics at
Chambery. From here he went to the French capital Avith a
recommendation to Tochon and Bouvart, two noted
savants; and was soon in his favorite element study
ing astronomy with Laplace, and acting as secretary
and librarian of the Royal Observatory.
With quick advancement, this position was soon
exchanged for an appointment in the Bureau of
Longitudes and a professorship of mathematics in the
College of Louis le Grand; while he held at the same
time the post of examiner of candidates for the Naval
School. In 1835 he received the Cross of the Legion
of Honor. Unfortunately, soon after this. Professor
(20g)

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 309
Nicollet was seized with a desire for riches, and
beginning to speculate on a small scale with satisfac
tory results, he finally risked all; only to find him
self, after the revolution of 1830, involved in the
general ruin.
All France was at this time in a ferment; Paris
was the theatre of action; and the outbreak of July
caused a fall in the public funds which threatened
disaster to more than one fortune.
Through these events Nicollet was driven back to
his accustomed labors, wiser for the bitter experience.
It is only necessary to follow his life to this point to
discover the spirit which led him, in December, 1831,
to come to America for the purpose of contributing
to the progressive increase of knowledge in its phys
ical geography. His predecessors had, with a few
exceptions, been led to raake their journeys either to
gratify a love of adventure or to satisfy a natural
curiosity; but he dignified his explorations by making
them in the name of science.
His plan was to explore the Allegheny range "in
its various extensions through the Southern States; "
to ascend the Red and Arkansas rivers and the Mis
souri part way, and to explore the Mississippi River
"from its mouth to its very source."
After devoting five years to the carrying out of
this plan, Nicollet returned to Baltimore. His work
was not unknown to Government, and he soon received
a notice from the War Department to go to Washing-
Mu that arrangements might be made for an expedi
tion to the country lying about the Headwaters of the
Mississippi, which would enable him to complete his
map of that region, and Lieutenant Fremont, of the
14

310 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
Oorps of Topographical Engineers had been engaged
to accompany him.
The Coteau des Prairies seems to be the point from
which the explorer looked out upon the region
embraced within the limits of his map, and indeed
it commands a view of " the green turf that forms
the basin of the Red River of the North, the forest-
capped summits of the Hauteur des Torres that sur
round the source of the Mississippi, the granite
valley of the Upper Saint Peter, and the depressions
in which are Lake Traverse and the Big Stone Lake."
Passing up the Saint Peter, Nicollet left the main
stream at the Sioux Portage, following this trail to
the mouth of the Warajn, by which he ascended to
the Shetek lakes and thence to the Coteau.
In going from the Shetek lakes to the Red Pipestone
Quarry, the party came upon the ruins of ancient
breastworks similar to those found by Carver on the
Mississippi, and recalling again the pre-historic man
who fought and lived in this "old, old land which
men call new."
Upon nearing the quarry where the Indians from
the surrounding nations corae to get the favorite
material for their pipes — a place believed by them to
be under the control of the Great Spirit, who salutes
the visitor with thunder and lightning, Nicollet and
his party were overtaken by a heavy storm and were
obliged to wait until it had passed over; but the
explorer humorously remarks that the Great Spirit
soon shoAved his good favor, for the sun came out
again, and the journey Avas resumed. Camp was
made on this " consecrated ground" and the travelers
had the pleasure of watching at sunset the illumined
bluffs which seemed like " the ruins of some ancient

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 211
city built of marble and porphyry." Nicollet men
tions, in describing this remarkable place, the custoras
observed by the Indians when they come for the pipe-
stone. Some one of their number is selected to work at
the quarry, and before the journey is made, this one
must observe a three-days' purification. At the end
of this time he and his companions start out for the
coveted stone, and having reached the quarry, after
offering gifts to the presiding deity, the man goes to
work. He cuts into the rock wherever his judgment
advises; but if he fails to select the most favorable
spot he is discarded and another takes his place.
In speaking of the Cannon River which Nicollet
explored, and which lies within his romantic "Undine
Region" toward which the Saint Peter dips in its
midway curve, he gives his reason for believing this
stream identical with La Hontan's "Long River"
and has therefore called it after that early explorer.
With amusing incidents he describes the character
istics of each waterway which he traversed, from
Devil's Lake to the smallest tributary of the Missis
sippi. Returning frora the former on his way to the
valley of the Red River he mentions the strange
behavior of his Indian "Dixon" who generally kept
ahead of the party as guide. He had a habit of
making the signal to rest by sitting down and light
ing his pipe while he waited for the others to come
up, but invariably sat facing them. On one occasion,
however, Nicollet, who was closely following him,
noticed that he had stopped on the crest of a hill,
sat down with his back to the others and without
changing his position stolidly waited. Upon reach
ing the inexplicable savage he found him looking off

313 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI,
in " ecstatic contemplation " over the magnificent
valley of the Red River of the North. The party had
known for some time that they must be near it, but
were unprepared for this strange introduction.
Upon reaching Crow Wing River on his way to
the "source "of the Mississippi, Nicollet determined
to follow another course than that pursued succes
sively by Pike, Cass, and Schoolcraft; he therefore
went to Leech Lake by a route lying between the
Crow Wing and the Mississippi.
The first three days of his stay at Leech Lake were
far from pleasant. Flat-Mouth, head-chief of the
Chippewas, and father of the chief of the same name
who entertained my party in 1881, was absent at the
time, and the missionary of the place. Rev. Mr.
Boutwell, was detained by high winds on the opposite
side of the lake. Nicollet afterward discovered that
the annoyance from the Indians was due to their
impression that he was poor, as he had very few
presents for them, and this caused them to look upon
him with contempt and even to threaten his life.
When Mr. Boutwell arrived peace was in a measure
restored and a mutual sympathy sprang up between
the two Frenchmen.
Mr. Boutwell had come to Leech Lake some time
before to work among the " pillagers," a name given
the Indians there by the Schoolcraft party, whose
supplies they had molested, and of which they had
since proudly boasted. Boutwell was a man of zeal
and devotion and no doubt exerted a strong influence.
From Leech Lake, Nicollet started for the Head
waters of the river in a canoe, accompanied by his
guide Brunet, Desird, a voyageur, and a Chippewa
called Kegwedzissag. He followed the course of the

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 313
Kabekonaug River, whose shores were so thickly
wooded that in order to make a passage it was
necessary to cut away the overhanging branches.
This protection, Avith that of the hills on either side,
have given its waters a very even temperature, so
that Nicollet paddling through them in August was
surprised to find that they had reached only 54°.
From this stream a portage was made to La Place
River which was followed to its source, and here near
Schoolcraft's old camp-ground, Nicollet made some
astronomical observations although he was "assailed
by torrents of mosquitoes," which three times extin
guished the lights of his lanterns.
Notwithstanding the party was awake by four
o'clock the next morning to make the final portage to
Itasca, the march was not begun until half past six;
but the leader of the expedition excuses this tardiness
by referring to the heat and mosquitoes which is quite
enough to elicit the sympathy of those who have felt
the effect of this combination. When at last the
signal was given, Brunet took up the canoe, Desir6
and Kegwedzissag assumed their respective burdens,
while Nicollet distributed about his person his instru
ments, cloak, gun, powder-flask, shot-bag, and a
luxury seldom knoAvn to the explorer — his umbrella.
" It Avill be readily conceived from this description of
my equipment," he says, "that although the one
least loaded, I was the most inconvenienced. * * *
Necessity engrossed me with the safety of my instru
ments. I will confess it, my mind frequently
became bewildered, so that twice during the portage
I lost my way; twice I got bogged in marshes from
which I extricated myself by walking over slippery
and decayed trunks of trees: and tAvice I reproached

214 EXPLORATION OF THE tTPPER MISSISSIPPI.
myself with the rashness that had led me upon snch
a journey." The six-mile portage which has proved so trying to
the travelers who have chosen to reach Itasca by this
route, took Nicollet five hours to cross, bringing him
to the shore of the lake before noon, where he took a
barometrical observation.
Passing down the southeast arm the party halted
at Schoolcraft Island and pitched tents, while
Nicollet flxed his artificial horizon for observations
upon the stump of Schoolcraft's flag-pole raised there
four years before. He then proceeded to explore the
lake, noticing the creek entering the southeast arm and
others entering the southwest arm, one of which —
"Nicollet Creek" — he followed to its source in a
pond which at that time was connected with two
lower ponds by a sraall rivulet; and this stream he
evidently considered the source of the Great River.
He says in conclusion, "After having devoted three
days to an exploration of the sources of the Mis
sissippi, and spent portions of the nights in mak
ing astronomical observations, I took leave of Itasca
Lake, to the examination of which the expedition
that preceded me hy four years had devoted but a
short time."
Passing out of Lake Itasca the Indians paddled
briskly enough to bring the party to Lake Bemidji
for an evening encampment, and Nicollet, entering
upon the unbroken sheet of water, was deeply
impressed by its solitary beauty. Cass Lake was
reached early the next day, and three hours were
spent here to enable Nicollet to make his astronom
ical observationc; but hearing the warning cry of the
loon, which almost invariably presages a storm, all

l»»)

216 EXPLORATION OF THB UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
hurried toward Leech Lake, which was reached at ten
o'clock at night.
Nicollet and his little following were barely under
shelter when a violent storm burst upon them. Dur
ing their absence, Flat-Mouth had returned from the
trading posts, whither he had gone for ammunition,
vowing vengeance against the Sioux and declaring that
the stain of Chippewa blood had been long enough on
his grounds, and that it was time he should wipe it out,
but he had not succeeded in getting what he wanted
and was therefore disappointed. He did not forget,
however, the courtesy due Nicollet in return for the
ill-treatment which he had received at the hands of
his men, and accordingly called a council that he
might show his white brother the esteem in which
he was held. Nicollet spent three evenings with this
intelligent Indian, and drank tea with him "out of
fine China ware." On one of these visits he showed
his host a rare snuff-box, ornamented with a picture
of Napoleon at the Island of Saint Helena. Flat-
Mouth examined this closely, asked many questions
about the white chief, and said with eloquent conceit:
" Well, it is strange, on whatever side I turn it, the
figure looks at me and seems to say, ' thou art my
brother warrior.' "
Having gained the required rest, Nicollet bade
farewell to his friend Boutwell and to his Indian
host, and began the descent of the river, deploring
that ill-health and lack of tirae prevented him at the
various points from inserting additional matter con
cerning them in his report, which he believed would
be interesting to the general reader. This ill-health
really obliged him to leave unfinished much of his
work, and prevented him from revising his report.

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 217
which was returned to him for that purpose while he
was in Washington. He never recovered his strength,
and died at the National Capital in September, 1843.
It is to be regretted that raore has not been written
concerning the life and works of this scientist and
explorer, and that an edition of his journals has not
been published for distribution beyond the Bureau of
the Corps of Topographical Engineers at Wash
ington. His comprehensive map of the Hydrographical Basin
of the Upper Mississippi, while it is not complete, in
so far as it does not show the heart-shaped lake with
its feeders to the south of Itasca, is, besides this^,
very accurate and admirable. In fact, it gives
Nicollet a distinct and conspicuous place among the
explorers of the Mississippi; not because he saw so
much more than those who had preceded him, but
because he gave the knowledge of what he saw to the
world. It is this inclination, often followed at the
expense of convenience and safety, which deserves
appreciation.

AGLIMPSEQFTHEREDRIVER.

CHAPTER VI.
EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAK.
HIS adventurous author and traveler
published, in 1847, an interesting and
somewhat sensational account of his
journey to, and wanderings through
the wild region surrounding the
Headwaters of the Mississippi.
Leaving the city of Saint Louis in
the summer of 1846, with a party of excursionists, in
a small steamer that plied between that city and the
head of navigation on the river, he jotted down in
his diary everything he considered worthy of note.
He had set out with the design of reaching, if possi
ble, the extreme head of the Mississippi, by whatever
conveyance he could secure after leaving the boat
at Saint Peter — now known as the Minnesota River.
The small duodecimo, in which the traveler records
his experiences, is full of personal adventure of a
rather romantic character; traditions picked up from
loquacious and superstitious Indians, and bits of local
history, are tinged by a lively imagination.
From the outset of his novel journey, the author
gossips pleasantly with his readers concerning every
point passed by the vessel, but his descriptions are
out of date, the journey having been made over fifty
years ago, when flourishing cities that now adorn the
river banks, were mere villages or collections of log
(SH8)

EXPLOITS OF OHAELES LANMAN. 219
huts, some having no existence whatever at the
time. Passing Rock Island and Prairie du Chien, con
cerning both of which the traveler gives rein to an
exuberant fancy, and has much to disclose in the
shape of history and tradition, he discourses with
enthusiasra upon Lake Pepin and its extraordinary
natural beauty. Surrounded by undulating hills
covered with velvety grass to their summits, and
" abounding Avith almost every variety of game, the
shores of the lake are covered with the most valuable
agates and carnelians," a statement which will be
received with a grain of allowance in the present day,
however true it raay have been a half century ago.
Legends and romantic stories succeed each other, and
are intensely interesting if they are not all strictly
veracious. But the author gives them as he heard
thera from Indians and others, and himself occasion
ally expresses a doubt of their truth. The legend of
the unfortunate " Winona " is of course related, but
need not be repeated here.
The little steamer proceeded on her course up the
river, passing Red Wing, "a village of about six
hundred souls;" and the mouth of Saint Peter River
was at length reached — the head of navigation on the
Mississippi. Landing at this point the writer says:
"My sojourn here has been interesting from many
circumstances. I feel that I am on the extreme verge
of the civilized world, and that all beyond is a myste
rious wilderness." He gives an account of an encarap-
ment of Sioux and Dakota Indians near the mouth of
the Saint Peter, at one of whose feasts he was permit
ted to be present. " It was announced throughout the
village that the Indians were to have a Dog Feast, in

220 EXPLORATION OE THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
which none but the bravest and most distinguished
warriors were allowed to participate. The idea that
lies at the bottom of this rite is that, by eating of a
dog's liver, the heart is made strong. The feast took
place on the open prairie and was attended by about
one hundred braves, while there must have been a
thousand spectators. The first step in the ceremony
was for the Indians to seat themselves in a circle
around a large pole and devote a few moments to
smoking. Their only article of clothing was the
clout, and their only weapon a long knife.
" Suddenly a whoop was given and the whole party
rose and coramenced dancing to the monotonous
music of a drum. Then broke upon the ear, the
howl, and in a moment more, the dying groan of a
dog, from without the circle of dancers. The carcass
was thrown into their midst by a woraan. A chorus
of deafening yells resounded through the air, the
dog was immediately opened, his liver taken out,
suspended on the pole by a string, and the dance
resumed. The dancers then, one after another,
stepped up and took a bite of the yet warm and quiv
ering liver. Soon as this was all eaten, another dog
was thrown into the ring, and the same horrible cere
mony repeated; and so they continued until the
carcasses of ten dogs were lying at the foot of the
pole in the center of the dancing crowd."
Leaving the Saint Peter, Lanman makes his way
to Saint Anthony Falls. "Their original name,"
he explains, "was Owah Menah, meaning Falling
Water," adding, "they owe their reputation prin
cipally to the fact that they ' veto ' the navigation of
the Upper Mississippi."
Lanman journeyed from the Falls of Saint Anthony

EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN. 231
to Crow Wing River on horseback, and, as usual, met
with many adventures and some hair-breadth escapes.
He was accompanied by a French-Canadian as guide.
The trail lay for the most part along the eastern shore
of the Great River. Their supplies consisted of
a small stock of bread and pork, and a blanket,
together with a gun each, and ammunition. Deer,
prairie-birds, and grouse were plentiful, and at sun
set the first day Lanman had fifty prairie-birds fast
ened to his saddle, while the Frenchman had bagged
a fine deer. A large Avolf was also killed by a shot
from the guide, and its skin taken by hira. Shortly
afterward they were chased by a herd of wolves,
when the horses took fright, becarae unraanageable,
and ran for their lives, leaving their eneniy soon out
if sight.
Crow Wing was at length reached, which the
author describes as a beautiful spot, situated on the
east side of the Mississippi, at the raouth of a river
of the sarae name. Here he was fortunate in meet
ing Williara Morrison, the trader, whose "reputation
as an upright, intelligent, and noble-hearted man
was co-extensive with the entire wilderness of the
Northwest." Lanman and Morrison became very
friendly. The latter was a Scotchman by birth and
at the time of meeting Lanman was somewhat
advanced in life. He had resided in the Indian
country about thirty-flve years, and is eulogized by
the author as possessing "all the virtues of the
trader, and none of his vices." His wife was an
Indian and had borne him a nuraber of bright chil
dren. He was much liked by the Chippewas, to
whom he was always a good friend and counselor.
Lanman spent ten days with him — " the most delight-

 «'t^_

EXPLOITS OF CHAELES LANMAN. 223
ful days I ever experienced." Morrison undertook to
act as his guide for a time, and together they wan
dered over the region of Northern Minnesota.
Among other tales of this locality told by Lanman
is the following: "A famous battle was once fought
here between the Sioux and Chippewas. A party of
the former had gone up Crow Wing River for the pur
pose of destroying a certain Chippewa village. They
found it inhabited only by women and children,
every one of whom they murdered in cold blood, and
burned their wigwams. It so happened that the
Chippewa warriors had been expecting an attack, and
had consequently hidden themselves in deep holes on
a high bank of the river at Crow Wing, intending to
fall upon the Sioux party on their way up the river.
But they were sadly disappointed. While watching
for their enemy they were suddenly startled by a tri
umphant shout that floated down the stream. In
great surprise they looked, when lo! the very party
that they carae after were in full view, shouting and
tossing up the scalps of the women and children.
The Chippewas remained in ambush for a few min
utes, and when the Sioux came within reach of their
arms every one of them was killed, while their canoes,
plunder, and bodies were suffered to float doAvn the
stream." And the narrator adds, "the pall of night
rested upon the hills, the glens, the waveless river,
and the Chippewa camp."
Many legends are associated with Crow Wing,
among them the following about a white panther,
which was religiously believed by the Chippewas.
The panther in question was the prophet or oracle of
a certain Chippewa tribe and possessed the gift of
speech. Lanman in all seriousness proceeds as fol-

224 EXPLORATION OF THB UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
lows: "A young Chippewa brave was anxious to
avenge the death of a brother, and sought the ora
cle to learn the success of his projected expedition.
The panther told him that he must not go; but the
young man heeded him not, and, heading his party,
went. Every one of his followers was killed, himself
escaping by the merest accident. Thinking that the
white panther had in some way caused the calamity,
he recklessly stole upon the creature in the darkness
of midnight and slaughtered it. The dying words of
the oracle were: 'Cruel and unhappy warrior, I
doom thee to walk the earth forever a starving and
undying skeleton.' The Chippewas say that the
specter, whenever the moon is tinged with red or the
aurora borealis floods the sky with purple, may be
seen flitting along the banks of Mee-see-see-pee."
Crow Wing was at the time of Lanman's visit the
home of the head chief of the Chippewa nation named
Hole-in-the-day. Our traveler visited him in his
lodge frequently, and describes him as about sixty
years of age, "stern and brave, but mean, vain,
treacherous, and cruel." In proof of his treachery
and cruelty the following incident is related as a fact:
" He and some six warriors while on a hunting tour,
were hospitably entertained in a Sioux lodge, where
resided a faraily of seventeen persons. The two
nations were at peace, and for a tirae their intercourse
had been perfectly friendly. On leaving his host,
Hole-in-the-day shook him cordially by the hand,
with a smile upon his countenance, and departed.
At midnight, when the Sioux faraily were wrapped
in peaceful slumber, Hole-in-the-day and his men
retraced their steps, and, without any provocation,
fell upon the sleeping family and cruelly murdered

EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN. 235
every member, even the lisping babe." Hole-in-the-
day told this story of himself to Lanman, and
boasted of it as of something creditable!
The Indian trader flfty years ago was the patriarch
and counselor of the wilderness. As the agent of
some fur company, his business was to trade with the
Indians for their furs and pelts. He Avas generally
of French descent, and his ancestors were traders.
He Avas, of course, a native of the wild region he
inhabited — raised in utter ignorance of civilized life.
His nearest white neighbor, also a trader, would
possibly be two hundred miles away. His dwelling
was built of logs and contained one large room and
a loft. His merchandise was composed chiefly of
salt pork, flour, blankets, colored cloth, and various
kinds of trinkets. His family consisted of an Indian
wife and several half-breed children. Adjoining the
trader's home was about one acre of ploughed ground
on which he raised a few vegetables; and a solitary
cow yielded him the only luxury he enjoyed.
On his Avay up the Mississippi, Lanman came to
Lake Winnibegoshish. The river he found so wind
ing that in some cases, by making a portage of about
fifteen rods, he saved three or four miles of canoeing.
The stream averaged about a quarter of a mile in
breadth, and flowed rapidly over a rocky bed. Lake
Winnibegoshish is flfteen miles in length and about
ten miles in width. It is nearly round, has no
islands, and is surrounded with a gravelly beach.
The water is clear but shallow. The surrounding
country is a dead level, covered with trees, inter
spersed with lakes and rice swamps, where iraraense
numbers of water-fowl have lived and multiplied for
centuries. 15

226 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
" The only inhabitants found on the shores of
Winnibegoshish," says the traveler, "were three
bands of Chippewas, numbering in all about three
thousand souls. * * * Immediately on my arrival
I heard something about a contemplated bear hunt.
A number had already been killed, and there was a
fording place on the Mississippi, not far away, where
a good marksman might take one at almost any time.
A present of tobacco soon initiated me into the good
graces of the party of hunters, and I was allowed
to accompany them. We started at sunset and
descended the river in a canoe to the crossing, Avhere
we concealed ourselves in a recess of the forest, seated
on a rock that commanded an opening between the
trees. It Avas quite dark, as there was no moon.
Here we spent an hour in perfect silence. Finally,
one of the Iiidians tapped me on the shoulder and
pointed to a large black object which I soon saw was
a bear just wading into -the water. Bruin took it
quite leisurely, as is his wont, little dreaming that an
enemy Avas so near. Just as his feet touched the
bottom of the stream, the Indian gave me a nod, and
raising our guns simultaneously, three of us fired at
the animal, striking him in a vulnerable spot. We
soon shipped hira on board our canoe and paddled
back to the village. Morrison estimated his weight
to be about three hundred pounds."
Red Cedar Lake, since named Cass Lake by School
craft in honor of General Cass, the Territorial Gov
ernor of Michigan, was reached in a few days. It
derived its original name, in Indian, from the tree
that mostly abounds upon its shores. In the center
of the lake is a large island and several small islands
occupy other portions of the lake. The entire region

EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN. 227
watered by the unnumbered lakes of the Upper Mis
sissippi, was formerly inhabited by the Chippewa
nation. The hospitality of the tribes was proverbial
in times past, ere they came to know the whites too
well and to taste of their "fire water." When a
stranger entered their cabin, he was invited to a seat
on their best mat, and always treated with the very
best they possessed in the way of food. If a chief
was visited at an untimely hour — at midnight, for
example — he would arise, stir up his fire, and give
the intruder a pipe with the air of a gentleman. If
called upon when the caller knew the chief had
reason to consider him an enemy, he would not tell
the caller to leave his wigwam, but possibly in an
unguarded moment, in the latter's OAvn wigwam, he
would cleave his skull with a tomahawk. They were
very affectionate to their wives and children. When
a party of them were in a state of starvation, and
one individual happened to have a bear or deer, the
latter would distribute it equally at a feast, and they
would never refuse to present to a brother Chippewa,
or white man whom they esteemed, any pipe, weapon,
or ornament that may have been solicited. They
still treat their infirm people with tender care. As the
Chippewa Country was mostly covered with a dense
forest, the people were unacquainted with the use of
the horse. Their mode of hunting the buffalo was
to drive them over bluffs, or shoot them while dis
guised in the skin of a wolf or buffalo. Their only
vehicle for locomotion and transport was the birchen
canoe. The bark of the birch tree, out of which it
was made, is still found in abundance throughout the
entire territory, and they used it, not only for canoes,
but for their lodges, their grave-houses, their baskets.

228 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.
their dishes, and exquisitely worked boxes which they
disposed of as curiosities.
In the month of July, 1846, Lanman entered Lake
Itasca and described it as a small sheet of water
about five miles long and one to two miles wide, con
taining only one island. Its Indian name was
Omushkos. He followed Schoolcraft in pronouncing
this lake the head of the Mississippi. This is easily
understood in the. light of my discovery of 1881.
Neither Schoolcraft or Lanman had visited, or sus
pected the existence of the beautiful sheet of water
to the south of Itasca, effectually screened from vieAV
by the high ridge which separates the two lakes.
Schoolcraft did not see it for reasons I shall present
in a future chapter, and Lanman makes no allusion
to it. To the south of Itasca is the ridge or eleva
tion of wood-crowned hills. The whole region to
the north of Itasca he correctly describes as woody,
low, and marshy. The trees are pine, oak, elm, maple,
birch, poplar, jack-pine, and tamarack. The region
around this lake was formerly famous for the num
ber of its wild animals, and Itasca derived its name
Omushkos, by which it is still known to the Indians,
from a monstrous elk — the English of Omushkos —
"which, according to the legend, measured the
length of. two canoes, and with his horns could split
a pine tree."
It may be stated that Lanman is not considered a
reliable authority in matters relating to the Upper
Mississippi and its neighboring territory. He was not
in a strict sense an explorer, nor does he claim to have
been such. His journey appears to have been under
taken chiefly for the gratification of a commendable
curiosity. In 1846, the year of his romantic journey.

EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN.

239

the Valley of the Mississippi, above the Falls of Saint
Anthony, was known only to Indian traders, mostly
of French origin, and probably to one or two specu
lative and intrepid travelers prospecting for the use
ful and precious metals. Lanman does not pretend
to have discovered anything. Had he given more
attention to exploration, he might have made an
important addition to our geographical knowledge
while canoeing on the southwestern arm of Itasca,
and thus have forestalled the author of the present
volume. Lanman's experiences are interesting mainly
from the many Indian traditions he recounts, and
his descriptions of regions, and scenery but little
known even in the present day.

¦a- •¦"&«!??-;,&

PART THIRD.

DISCOVERY OF THE

-:o:-

SUBJECTS:
Chapter Page
I. EARLY AND RECENT EXPLORATION... 338
IL JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA  237
HI. WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS  346
IV. EARLY HISTORY OP MINNESOTA  357
V. THE "TWIN CITIES"  365
VI. PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION 297
VII. MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS  315
VIIL THROUGH THE WILDERNESS  326
IX. HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI  339
X. JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION  354
Xr. RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS  381
XII. INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION  396

MAMUHrt^^dfl

ii^MMM^HOH

•\

TURTLE LAKE, 175
LAKE
,^nu^^ ^- BEMIDJI
. ^ . -' .*,--
LAKElTASBA-'fa ^ jo.i.K "¦ -_
"''^ C) 4 Xalct Garjttid

LAKE GLAZIER 4(/
SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI /
located July 22, 1881. ^

LAJ^E
WINNIBEGOSinSH

Tokegaitia Talh

¦*(•»<

Brainerd

WjiCi-owWing

_'.J5.'"

^W, NOTE :
I - DistoDCB of PlacM of Interelt and
S Importance froBi Source of (.ho UIbi-

Ujlppi areTndicatsdli;7igur«ii.

%(* Little F!(Il3
i%\ 9 (mi/
^.' -J '

^-*

\ o Sawt HapiOs
St.ClOHd o "*
768 1

„. aionticello °, „:Elk River

:lake minnetonka

:lake SAItltlET g^.

|.,'loAndlia (^

St. Anthony ( g
MINNEAI>OLIS^l M i ^¦
st._^p^Ol

MAP OF
THE UPPER Mississippi
Willard Glazier. 1881.

B., KC H i CO.,EKQ'S

(23S)

CHAPTER L
RECElfT EXPLOKATIOKS.
'•OR nearly fifty years prior to 1881, it
had been generally accepted as estab
lished beyond question that the ulti
mate Source of the Mississippi was
in Lake Itasca, Northern Minnesota.
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, geologist
of the Cass expedition and leader of
a subsequent exploring party, had
announced to the world his discovery of this lake in
the year 1832, and pronounced it the True Head of
the Great River.
Geographers, map-makers, educational publishers,
college faculties, and teachers, invariably published
and taught that the Source of the Mississippi was in
the lake thus designated by Schoolcraft. A few,
however, pioneers and others, who had come in con
tact with Indians on the Chippewa Reservation,
stoutly denied the claim of Itasca to the distinction
given it by its discoverer; this fact, coupled with an
eager desire to ascertain the truth or error of School
craft, led me to organize an expedition having for its
object the possible settlement of the mooted ques
tion. That expedition resulted in locating a hitherto
unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca, as the

234 DISCOTEBT OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
Primal Reservoir, on the twenty-second of July,
1881. The discovery that a lake of fair proportions above
and beyond Itasca was the True Source of the Mis
sissippi was followed by an attempt to discredit the
validity of my published statements, and misrepresen
tations were made which rendered it expedient in the
estimation of my friends, that further investigation
should be undertaken in that quarter and that I should
resume the pen in defense of the truth of my position.
Xo sooner had I announced a new source for the
Mississippi than several critics jumped to their feet
and declared that there was nothing beyond Itasca
worthy of the slightest consideration. ^Then, how
ever, I had proved most conclnsiTelT that that lake
was not the remotest water, some of my opponents
rather reluctantly granted that there ni; Le poesibly
be a few ponds and puddles in thsT Tr-einitr, but, if
so. they were of little oonseqnente. e.3J uie early
explorers would have given them L~f rr':mfnence in
the accounts of their exploratioiii.
Having made it entirely clear xc m:;?: gi'^'-'grrapliers
that there was such a lake as Ihsi Ifscrised, and
that it was a direct and permaner: ifeier or Lake
Itasca, it was now asserted by a feir cariler? tbat it
had been previously seen and that even if ic were
accepted as the sonrce, I was entitled to bnt little credit
for establishing its tme relation to the iGssi^ppL
Again, it was the argument of certain parties who
imagined that they had interests ioimieal to mine,
that the explorations of the eminent French scientist,
Xicollet, wbich tended largely to confirm Schoolcraft,
were conducted dnring the •¦ dry season," and, not
withstanding tbat the lake which I bad fixed npoD

HECEXT EXPLORATIOKS. 2.^5
in July was between five and six miles in circumfer
ence and covered an area of two hundred and fifty-
five acres, with an average depth of forty-flve feet, its
basin may not have exhibited water during the month
of August when the region was visited by the distin
guished Frenchman in 1836.
Finally, on learning that the lake in question was
being almost universally adopted, one or two exceed
ingly zealous partisans feeling, I presume, that they
had a "mission," or rather that they were called
upon, to investigate my explorations, sent out what
they were pleased to denominate "expeditions" to
examine and report upon their findings in the locality
undei discussion. The first of the so-called expedi
tions visited the Head of the Mississippi in October
1886, and is alleged to have consisted of three persons
although the name of but one appeared in the report.
A subsequent expedition took place in the summer
and autumn of 1889, and was, to say the least, con
spicuous for its contradictions.
Although the leaders of both of these investigating
parties were pleased to denounce me in unmeasured
terms, their own reports were very conflicting; one
of them even going so far as to pluck the laurel from
the brow of Schoolcraft in order that he might
bestow it upon his greater favorite, Nicollet, while
the other was for a long time in doubt as to the
propriety of deciding between a pond, a puddle, a
rivulet, or spring. The investigations of this
"enterprising" explorer culminated in his fixing
npon two lakes having no surface connection with
Lake Itasca or the Mississippi, as the Fountain-
head. A very notable feature of their various
" modest " reports was that they were made in the

flU

DtSCOVEftY OE THE TRtrE SOtTBCE.

interest of their employers, and were filled with
vulgar abuse of everyone connected with the expedi
tion of 1881.
The antagonism thus developed by an honest
attempt to establish a geographical truth, together
with the fact that, even at this late day, some of our
leading educators still believe in the error of Lake
Itasca, led me to decide upon another visit to the
Headwaters of the Mississippi, for the purpose of
making a most thorough investigation, in an earnest
effort to settle the vexed question which had occupied
the attention of geographers for over ten years.

¥^

SROCTfSG R.A°;:S.

OHAPTER II.
JOUENET TO MINN^ESOTA.
-ETERMINED upon a second expe
dition to the Headwaters of the
Mississippi, I immediately began
preparations for the accomplish
ment of my purpose while at
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, during the
month of May, 1891, just ten years
after starting from Cleveland, Ohio,
on my first journey to that region.
Wishing to reach Northern Minnesota as early as
practicable, I left Milwaukee on the fourteenth of
July, accompanied by Pearce Giles of Camden, New
Jersey, who assisted in the organization of my former
expedition, and who has since been an earnest
advocate of my position in relation to the Source of
the Mississippi.
We availed ourselves of the Chicago, Milwaukee
and Saint Paul Railway in our tour across Wisconsin.
The season and route fixed upon for our trip were
such as to present the charming scenery and rich
products of its soil to the best possible advantage.
Many and wonderful are the changes wliich have
taken place in the picturesque region which lies
between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi since the
zealous Jesuit missionary. Father James Marquette,
paddled his birch canoe down the beautiful river from
which the State derives its name.

338 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
Although a slight digression, it may not be entirely
foreign to our purpose, or uninteresting to the reader,
if we briefiy note the transformation which two hun
dred years have wrought in this rich and populous
section of our Great Republic; for it was through
the rivers of Wisconsin that not only Marquette and
Joliet, but also their immediate successors. La Salle,
Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix, and Carver, found
their way to the Father of Waters.
It is hardly probable that the old explorers, even
in their most sanguine moments, ever dreamed of the
brilliant future which awaited the fleld of their
explorations. Then, all of the vast tract of country
through which they passed was an unbroken wilder
ness. Now, its productive farms, its factories, rail
ways, and above all the schools and churches, mark
its development and tell the story of onward strides
in progress and civilization.
An hour's ride from Milwaukee brought us to
Waukesha, a delightful summer resort, sometimes
styled the Saratoga of the West. It is the capital of
Waukesha County, and is noted for the efficacy of its
mineral springs. This beautiful village is situated
on the Fox River, twenty-one miles southwest of
Milwaukee, in one of the most fertile valleys of the
State, and has many attractions aside from the health-
giving properties of its famous springs.
Leaving Waukesha, our journey led us through
several villages to Watertown on. the Black River,
forty-three miles west of Milwaukee. This quiet
little city is the center of one of the richest agri
cultural sections of Wisconsin; it is located on both
sides of the river in Dodge and Jefferson counties, in
a valley from which gentle hills rise on every side.

JOURKEY TO MINNESOTA. 239
It is reputed to have six public schools, two colleges,
fifteen churches, three national banks, and four
weekly papers. The river affords abundant water-
power, and several mills and factories were observed
as we passed through the city. The growth of Water-
town has been comparatively slow, its population
having increased but little over eight thousand in the
course of twenty years.
Our route from Watertown was northwesterly to
Portage, which is picturesquely situated at the head
of navigation on the Wisconsin River, eighty-three
miles from Milwaukee. This section of the State was
for many years celebrated for its extensive pine forests,
but they have long since yielded to the axe of the
lumberman, and Portage now has graded schools,
daily and weekly papers, and a flourishing trade with
the surrounding country, which was not more famous
in the past for its lumber than it is to-day for the
rich products of the farm.
From Portage we proceeded up the Wisconsin to
Kilbourn City, passing through a portion of the
" Dalles," which enjoy a deservedly world-wide repu
tation for their scenic attractions. America has a
great variety of grand and beautiful scenery, possibly
excelling in this particular all other countries of the
globe, and I have seen nothing anywhere so near to
civilized lines that surpasses the Dalles of the Wis
consin River. Here the largest stream in the State
flows through a wild gorge for a distance of nearly
ten miles, so narrow in many places that there is just
room for a small steamer to pass. The place is sur
rounded by a cluster of beautiful lakes, and the laud-
scape resulting from such a happy combination of
rural attractions is picturesque and enchanting.

DALLES OF THE WISCONSIN,

JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA. 241
Regretting that a sojourn at the Dalles was
incompatible with the chief objects of our journey,
we rolled on toward our evening destination, reach
ing the bluffs which overlook the Mississippi at
La Crosse, a few minutes after flve o'clock.
Although I have often seen the Great River during
the past twenty years and stood upon its banks many
times since my canoe voyage of 1881, I could not, on
viewing it again, readily repress emotions of affection
for the mighty stream which has for so long a period
occupied a large share of my time and attention.
Who among reflective travelers will think it strange
that long association, even with a river, may not
sometimes lead to a sentiment very nearly akin to
love? Who that has traced the tortuous course of
any of the great streams of Earth, from source to
sea, will wonder at the deep and tender regard which
I always feel when looking upon this King of American

rivers

?

Thousands upon thousands of logs, numerous saw
mills, and acres of lumber yards, betokened our
proximity to La Crosse, the second city of Wisconsin
and one of the most enterprising in the Valley of the
Mississippi. During my descent of the river ten years ago, I
halted three days at La Crosse, at which time I learned
something of its early history and development.
The name of this ambitious young city is said to be
derived from the invigorating game of " La Crosse,"
the favorite sport of the Indians, who were wont to
assemble for this purpose on the level prairie upon
which the city now stands. To indulge in their
athletic matches, it is recorded, that they gathered
here in large numbers annually, the plain being con-
16

242 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
veniently adapted to the accommodation of the
various tribes who desired to see and participate in
the sport. Nathan Myrick, the flrst white settler,
became such an enthusiastic admirer of the exciting
game that he named the spot, on which his solitary
cabin was built. La Crosse, and thus the name of the
aboriginal sport became perpetuated in that of the
city. La Crosse claims, and with good grace, to be the
second city in commercial and manufacturing
importance in the State of Wisconsin. The prairie
on which it is built is seven miles in length by two
and a half in breadth. Its distance below Saint Paul
by the river, is one hundred and ninety-seven miles;
while by railway it is only one hundred and twenty-
nine miles from the same city.
The Black and La Crosse rivers fall into the Missis
sippi at this point, the former being a most important
lumbering stream.
The growth of La Crosse is in keeping with the
development of the Northwest. Myrick, the flrst
settler, landed here in November, 1841, with a boat
load of goods and notions from Prairie du Chien,
which he traded with the red men foi: their furs. In
the course of ten years the trading-post established by
him, had drawn other settlers to it, and it became an
incorporated town. Five years later, in 1856, it had
attained sufficient size and importance to be made a
city. To-day it has a population of over thirty
thousand of as industrious and prosperous citizens as
are to be found on the banks of the Great River.
The geographical location of La Crosse is doubtless
one of the chief secrets of its rapid progress and
present flourishing condition. The products of one

JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA. 343
of the leading agricultural States of the Union,
together with a portion of the vast supplies which
reach its shores from Minnesota and Northern Iowa,
give to the city immense advantages, occupying, as it
does, a commanding position on the river for attract
ing commercial relations with its sister cities. In
addition to the facilities offered for transportation by
numerous water lines. La Crosse has access to several
railways which center here. The Mississippi and its
tributaries embrace over sixteen thousand miles of
navigable water; the former alone presenting a
stretch of nearly two thousand miles of uninter
rupted navigation, affording the cheapest kind of
transportation, of the benefits of which La Crosse
avails herself to a very large extent, and to this
advantage is mainly due her growth in population
and wealth.
The commerce and manufactures of a city depend,
in a great measure, upon the resources of the State
in which it is situated. Wisconsin is one of our
richest agricultural States. It is larger than New
York, Rhode Island, and Connecticut combined, and
in the fertility of its soil is second to none. A con
siderable percentage of the wheat crop of the United
States is grown in this province. Its immense corn
fields, comprising several millions of acres, are
another source of wealth; while the hay-producing
area is double that of Iowa. Twenty-five million
pounds of butter and twenty million pounds of cheese
are manufactured annually in Wisconsin, most of
which is shipped to Eastern and European markets.
The soil and climate of this State are especially
fcvorable to the growth of the potato. Flax rais
ing is also a leading industry, the yield being over

244 DISCOVERY OP THE TRUE SOUECB.
thirty million pounds a year. Thus in agricultural
resources the " Badger " State possesses every advan
tage for developing great commercial and manu
facturing cities, and the favorable position of La
Crosse eminently fits her for reaping the full benefit
of the conditions so generously provided.
After a halt of twenty minutes for connections
and refreshments, we steamed out of La Crosse and
were soon wending our way over the railway bridge
which spans the Mississippi at this point.
Having reached the Minnesota side of the river,
we rushed along toward Winona, our evening desti
nation, where we had supper and remained for the
night. The following morning a few hours were pleas
antly and profitably spent in a stroll through the
leading streets of the city, during which we called
at the office of the Republican in anticipation of
meeting its editor, Hon. D. Sinclair, who, we
regretted to learn, was then out of town attending
an editorial convention at Saint Paul. Mr. Sinclair
was an early pioneer of Minnesota, and, in addition
to conducting one of the first journals of the State,
was at this time postmaster and prominently men
tioned as a candidate for the majoralty. He has
for several years past shown much interest in the
controversy relating to the True Source of the Mis
sissippi, and the columns of his paper have ever been
open to those who are disposed to discuss without
prejudice the geographical question which, since
1881, has been of more than local interest.
The growth of Winona since my former visit has
been gradual and substantial. Several new publio
buildings were noted in various parts of the city of
which ber intelligent citizens are justly proud.

JOURITEY TO MINNESOTA. 246
In its location and surroundings, Winona is
extremely picturesque, standing as it does on a
plateau nine miles long by three broad on the west
bank of the river, and environed by lofty bluffs, the
surface of which, in some cases, from base to summit
appears of a velvety smoothness, having more the
semblance of art than of Nature.
The city is laid out with the utmost regularity, the
streets wide and chiefly at right angles; the business
blocks compactly built of wood and stone are gener
ally of a very substantial character. Many of the
private residences are elegantly designed and are
suggestive of wealth and reflnement. The whole
appearance of the place betokens business activity
and prosperity. In population, Winona is the fourth
city in the State, and claims to be third in commer
cial importance. It is the river outlet of a large
portion of Minnesota and several counties of Northern
Wisconsin, and as a primary grain market, ranks
fourth in tho United States.
Besides water communication north and south,
Winona has within her limits the stations of the Chi
cago, Milwaukee and Saint Paul; the Green Bay,
Vrinona and Saint Paul, and several branch lines of
railway. As a lumber distributing point, this city is one of
the most important of the Upper Mississippi, while
its saw-mills, flour-mills, wagon factories and other
manufacturing establishments give a very good idea
of the extent to which its capital and industries have
been developed in the course of a few years by its
enterprising inhabitants.

CHAPTER III.
WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS.
FE continued our journey up the Mississippi,
at ten o'clock on the following morning,
and our train making brief stops at the
various stations between Winona and
Minneapolis, afforded but little opportu
nity for obtaining glimpses of the cities
and towns which dot the river banks.
Quite in contrast with my voyage down
the Mississippi in a canoe, was this trip up stream
by rail. Everything was reversed. Instead of leis
urely disembarking at the water front, we now
whirled along in rear of the numerous places which,
during the descent of the river, had arrested my
attention. The journey then covered a period of
several days; by rail it can be completed in a cor
responding number of hours.
Reflecting upon the various modes of journeying,
I am led to say as the result of much experience, that
he who looks at the country from the window of a
railway car, can at best have only an imperfect idea
of the many objects of interest which are constantly
brought to his notice. During a horseback journey
from ocean to ocean in 1876, I became satisfied that
an equestrian tour wherein the rider mounts and dis
mounts at will as he jogs along over the highway,
chatting with an occasional farmer, talking with the
people in town and viewing rural scenes at his pleas-
(846)

WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 247
ure, presents many attractive features to the student
and tourist; but notwithstanding all that may be said
in favor of the horse, I can not but feel, after
an equally extended experience in the canoe, that he
who wishes to view the landscape, to commune with
Nature, to see men and note the products of their
toil, to learn something of their manners and customs
from a novel standpoint, will find our rivers and the
light craft, which readily thread these waterways,
best adapted to his purpose.
In support of the river and canoe for a tour of
observation, a contemporary says: "Other roads do
some violence to Nature and bring the traveler
to stare at her; but the river steals into the scenery
it traverses without intrusion, silently creating and
adorning it, and is free to come and go as the
zephyr." The voyager in his canoe near the surface of the
water, floats along seeing hill and dale and woodland
very much as they appeared to the settler in pioneer
days in all their picturesque beauty. Each stroke of
the paddle, each bend in the river brings before -he
eye new scenes as the enchanted traveler glides
onward in his course.
The canoe employed for such journeys need not
necessarily be a birch-bark, or a "Rushton," or a
" Rob Roy;" any one of these patterns and many others
will meet ever}' requirement of the voyager. In my
descent of the Mississippi, I used the birch-bark at
the headwaters of the river, for the reason that it is
best adapted to the rough treatment which is unavoid
able whenever a swift current with an uncertain bed
is encountered; as this canoe is easily repaired with
pitch if rendered unseaworthy by contact with

348 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
obstructions. On reaching Aitkin we replaced the
Indian with modem canoes in which we continued our
voyage to the Gulf.
Taking it for granted that the tourist has decided
upon the river as the most practicable highway for
his purpose and that he has fixed upon the canoe as
the most suitable conveyance at his command, he
very naturally casts about for a desirable field in
which to conduct his observations. If he is a resi
dent of the Valley of the Mississippi and would like
to know more of the romantic history of North
America, it is not necessary that he should make an
extended journey to the classic Hudson, or the Cana
dian lakes, or ship his canoe to the sandy shores of
New Jersey, or the rugged coast of New England.
Right here in the great basin of the Father of Waters,
unlimited opportunities may be found for gliding
through fertile regions that are as beautiful and invit
ing to-day as they were before the touch of civilization
had wrought its mighty change. The Rock, Wiscon
sin, Chippewa, Saint Croix, and Minnesota are among
the most interesting affluents of the Upper Mississippi,
and the sights and experiences which are character
istic of this section of the Great River may reasonably
be looked for upon any of the streams which are
directly tributary to it.
To return to our journey, we flnd that we have
passed Minneiska and are now at Wabasha, a small
town on the west bank of the river at the foot of
Lake Pepin. It is twelve miles below Lake City; is
an important grain market and has a population of
between three and four thousand.
Leaving Wabasha we move northward along the
western shore of Pepin occupied with thoughts of

WINOH^A TO MINNEAPOLIS. 249
the aboriginal legends which will always be associated
with this beautiful sheet of water; thinking also of
Father Hennepin and his adventures among the
Indians, he who was the flrst white man to break the
solitude of these northern wilds, and who suffered
captivity here; for it will be remembered that having
made Hennepin and his companions prisoners, the
savages held a consultation near the lake for the pur
pose of deciding what they should do with their cap
tives. Some were in favor of giving them their
liberty, while others insisted that they should be put
to death. Those who were in favor of the latter
course cried and moaned throughout the night hop
ing by their tears to prevail upon the remainder of
the tribe to consent to the murder of the whites.
This experience led Hennepin to christen this mag
niflcent sheet of water, the Lake of Tears, which title,
it would seem, should have been retained when we
consider the peculiar circumstances under which the
adventurous Frenchman was induced to bestow it.
The name which the lake now bears is evidently of
French origin, but I have been unable to ascertain
who applied it, or what incident led to its adoption.
Being released from captivity through the compas
sion and influence of Wah-zee-koo-tay, the great
Nahdawessy chief, Hennepin, still undaunted, pro
ceeded up the Mississippi to the Falls of Saint
Anthony, which he named in honor of his patron
saint. Following Hennepin, Baron La Hontan journeyed
through Lake Pepin, and many leagues to the north
ward, located his Longue Rivierre, that romance of
geography, which he described as having a " due
westem course," but which, it was subsequently

250 DISCOVERY OE THB TRUE SOURCE.
ascertained, was a creature of his imagination, or
rather, a singular combination of truth and flction.
Then came the gallant Le Sueur in 1700. Pad
dling up the lake, he continued the ascent of the
Mississippi to the mouth of the Minnesota River, and
thence up that stream to its Blue Earth tributary;
This daring spirit erected a log fort on the banks of
the Mankato, and was the flrst to break the virgin
soil of Minnesota with spade and pickaxe, which was
done in digging for copper ore, large quantities of
which, or a green earth supposed to be ore of that
metal, he had conveyed to France. Le Sueur was
doubtless the first Avliite man who supplied the Indians
of the Northwest with firearms and other products of
civilized labor, and to his truthful journal we are
greatly indebted for much of the reliable data we
possess of the Indian races of the Upper Mississippi.
After the lapse of a considerable period. Captain
Jonathan Carver, a native of New England, passed
through Lake Pepin during his journey up the Mis
sissippi. He had long contemplated such an expedi
tion, but circumstances did not favor him until 1776.
With only a Frenchman and Mohawk Indian for
guides, his heroic nature defied the perils of such a
hazardous undertaking. Carver ascended the almost
unknown river in a canoe, and exulted in the fact
that he was the first of the Anglo-Saxon race to glide
over these pure waters; to look upon this grand
scenery and to tread the fertile soil of the Great
Northwest. Turning from the adventures of the heroic old
explorers, we find our train in front of the railway
station at Lake City, one of those magic towns of
the West, which, under favorable circumstances, leap

WlNOlSTA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 351
into existence and develop so rapidly as to far exceed
the brightest anticipations of their founders. Beauti
fully located on the western shore of Pepin, enjoying
excellent water communication with all points up
and down the river, it will doubtless sustain the
prominence it has already achieved.
From the beginning of our journey the scenery has
been strikingly picturesque, and yet, on leaving Lake
City it increases in grandeur as we move forward
toward Frontenac. The broad expanse of water,
charming coves and huge bluffs which, in some
instances, rise abruptly to a height of from flve hun
dred to a thousand feet above the surface of the
lake, present a picture that is seldom, if ever, equaled
in the Valley of the Mississippi.
As we cast our eyes to the eastward and look upon
the majestic bluffs which line the Wisconsin shore
our attention is arrested by Maiden Rock, and I
recall the sad story of Winona and her leap from
its summit, an incident that will always be of roman
tic interest to those who delight in the legendary
lore of the Great River. Her youth, beauty, and
the melancholy circumstances which led to her tragic
death invest her life with a peculiar charm, and will
ever form a thrilling chapter in the annals of Lake
Pepin. It may be observed before proceeding further that
Lake Pepin is twenty-one miles long and varies in
width from one to three miles. In my descent of the
Lake in 1881, I was led to conclude that the slightest
breath of wind will produce a heavy swell, and from
this circumstance it is the custom of voyagers on the
river to pass through the lake, if possible, during the
night; experience having taught them that it is gen-

. *4'i^^«i*^.s ;:'i

WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 253
erally much calmer then than during the day.
Toward its outlet the valley widens considerably,
owing to the entrance of the Chippewa River, which
at its mouth is flve hundred yards wide, and is navi
gable at certain seasons of the year for over one hun
dred miles. The general trend of the lake is from
west-northwest to east-southeast. The scenery along
its shores contrasts strongly with that of the river.
Instead of the rapid current of the Mississippi wind
ing around numberless islands, some of which dis
play well-wooded surfaces, the lake when calm pre
sents a smooth and sluggish expanse unrelieved by a
single island; nothing limits the view but the tower
ing bluffs which enclose its basin and seem like so
many giant sentinels standing guard over the accu
mulated flood of the mighty stream as it passes quietly
onward to the sea.
Arrived at Frontenac we halt for a moment only.
This is a growing hamlet of perhaps three hundred
souls. In appearance it is a most romantic spot,
with its white sand beach in front and bluffs in the
background. Frontenac has already attracted some
attention as a summer resort, and will doubtless in the
course of a few years attain sufficient importance in
this particular to meet in a measure at least the
bright anticipations of its liberal and philanthropic
founder — General Israel Garrard.
Passing Frontenac we hurry on to Red Wing, situ
ated on the west bank of the Mississippi, six miles
above the head of the lake. Like many other cities
of Minnesota, Red Wing has an interesting history,
and is a striking illustration of what an intelligent
and industrious people can accomplish in the course of
a very few years when naturally zealous, and their

354 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
energies are properly directed. The standard of
civilization was originally planted here by two Swiss
missionaries, bearing the names of Denton and Garin,
who arrived, accompanied by their wives, in 1838.
The savage Dakotas at this period were in posses
sion of the territory, and these brave, self-denying
Christians labored among them until the health of
Denton failed in 1846, when the American Board of
Missions appointed as their successors, John Alton
and J. W. Hancock, two clergymen of Vermont. Two
white families and about three hundred Indians
were at that time the sole occupants of what is now
the flourishing little city of Red Wing.
In June, 1852, the Government entered into a
treaty with the Indians which authorized the occupa
tion of the Territory by settlers, but the close of the
same year saw only about forty people on the present
site of Red Wing. On the following Christmas day
the entire white community dined at the residence of
William Freeborn, one of the flrst settlers. Soon
after this pleasant event in its pioneer history, the
place began to grow, and although its development
has been moderate it has reached a population of
between twelve and thirteen thousand.
Red Wing enjoys the reputation of being one of the
largest primary wheat markets in the country, having
handled over three million bushels in a single year.
Its manufactures also are quite extensive, while the
clay deposits in its immediate vicinity are among the
flnest and richest in America. In addition to clay,
a very superior quality of sand is found in this local
ity, in large quantities, and I was informed that it
was the intention to establish a glass factory there at
an early date. Being within a few miles of Lake

WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 255
Pepin, and enjoying every advantage which has
favored her sister cities. Red Wing may reasonably
anticipate a steady growth and a rapid development
of her great natural resources.
Less than an hour's ride from Red Wing and we
are at Hastings on the west bank of the river, twenty
miles below Saint Paul. In my journey between these
two points I again saw in striking contrast, my canoe
voyage of 1881, and my present trip up river by rail.
Then a thunder-storm, which had been slumbering for
a few hours, broke out afresh at ten o'clock in the
morning and followed us throughout the day — drench
ing us to the skin and making our experience any
thing but agreeable. Now, we were favored with a
cloudless sky, and the most delightful weather in
every particular.
We passed the mouth of the Saint Croix River just
below Hastings. This stream enters the Mississippi
from the east and forms the boundary between Wis
consin and Minnesota. For a considerable distance
below the Saint Croix the water of the Mississippi,
where shallow, is of a reddish tint, but very black in
deep water. The red is occasioned by the sand seen
at the bottom which is of that color. It may be said
in explanation that the dark color is invariably com
mon to deep water when moderately limpid.
Hastings is a pretty little city of modest pretensions,
claiming a population of only about flve thousand.
In pioneer days it aspired to flrst place among the
leading cities of Minnesota, and I am told was at one
time considered the rival of Saint Paul and Minne
apolis. While it has not been able to reach the goal
of its ambition, it has made considerable progress,
and will doubtless in the course of another decade

356 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
show a creditable increase in population and commer
cial importance.
The route from Hastings to Saint Paul led us
through one of the most fertile and picturesque
regions of Minnesota. Some of the flnest farms in
the State are to be found here, while the scenery, if
we except that a,long the shores of Lake Pepin, is not
surpassed anywhere in the Northwest.
Soon after leaving Hastings, we passed what is
termed, and unquestionably is, the narrowest place in
the Mississippi belov,- the Falls of Saint Anthony.
The river at this point is clear of islands and not more
than one hundred yards wide. Pike states that his
men rowed across in forty strokes of the oar; another
traveler affirms that he crossed in 1857 from a dead
start in sixteen strokes. This sudden contraction of
the stream gives it a greatly increased depth, and in
my soundings of 1881, I discovered it to be over one
hundred feet deep, while its velocity was nearly
doubled. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the church spires
of Saint Paul were seen in the distance, and a few
moments later we entered the hospitable gates of the
capital city of Minnesota.

CHAPTER IV.
EARLY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA.
' ESS than fifty years ago the present State of
Minnesota was a wilderness of woodland
and of prairie- — the home of the red man.
In the deep recesses of her forests the
Sioux, Chippewas, Winnebagos, and many
other savage tribes met and contended
for supremacy; while vast herds of buffalo
grazed and roamed at will over her fertile prairies.
Here the dark-browed Indian, in his birch canoe,
floated and paddled down the rivers and over his own
loved lakes; and from the rocky bluffs and hill-tops,
whence to-day floats the banner of civilization, arose
only the smoke of the council-fire, and was heard
the war-whoop of the savage. Across these sky-
tinted waters, once the battle-field of the red men,
now reverberate the soft, sweet strains of the organ,
the peaceful chimes of the church-going bell, and the
busy hum of commerce.
The sights and scenes which were characteristic
of this region in aboriginal days have passed away.
The remnants of a few Indian tribes still linger at
the Headwaters of May-see-see-bee — their ideal river;
and an occasional straggler from these bands is now
and then seen in the streets of Saint Paul, but in a
very few years at most, their homes, their hunting-
grounds, and even their very burial-places will be
forgotten. 17 (SW)

358 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
On this ground, the warlike Sioux and their
implacable enemies, the equally flerce and uncom
promising Chippewas, were for ages engaged in an
exterminating conflict which spared neither age, nor
sex, nor condition. This fair land has been the
scene of many a sanguinary combat. Here thousands
of the brave sons of the forest have sung their last
wail of despair, and, suffering indescribable tortures,
met death uncomplainingly.
The bitter feuds of the Indians descended to
pioneer times, and among the early settlers of Min
nesota there are many yet living who were reluctant
witnesses of their incessant warfare. The soil upon
which we tread to-day is impregnated with the blood
of untutored savages, who, though denizens of the
wild forest, and fllled with hatred of their fellow-men,
still, however, heard the voice of the Great Spirit in
the morning breeze; beheld him in the dark cloud
that rose in the west; recognized his presence in the
setting sun, as he sank, enthroned under a glorious
canopy, to his burning bed. Here they loved, fought,
and delighted in the sports of the chase.
Over two centuries ago the attention of Europeans
was directed to the region now known as Minnesota.
Fact aud fancy had already invested this portion of
North America with a romantic interest rarely, if
ever, equaled in the history of exploration. From
the year 1658, when the Jesuit missionary and explorer,
Pather Menard, was lost in the wilderness, down to
the present time, Minnesota has ever been a most
fruitful field for research.
It has been observed in a previous chapter, that
Father Louis Hennepin was the first white man to
ascend the Upper Mississippi; then came La Hontan,

EARLY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA. 259
Le Sueur, and Carver; the last of whom acquired great
infiuence over the Indians; made several treaties with
them, was elected to the chieftainship of a tribe, and
given a vast tract of land embracing millions of acres
and covering the very ground on which Saint Paul now
stands. Although this gift is said to have been rati
fied by George III. it was not sustained by our Con
gress, and the heroic and adventurous Carver was,
for several years, suffered to feel the annoyances of
poverty, and, after a fruitless effort to obtain ade
quate compensation for his services, died of want in
the city of London, where for a long time previous
to his death he endured greater privations than had
fallen to his lot in the American wilderness.
Within the present century. Pike, Cass, Beltrami,
Schoolcraft, Nicollet, Fremont, Long, and Keating
have visited and explored Minnesota. The maps,
journals, and works of these eminent explorers, and
the narratives of their heroic predecessors, enable us
to follow chronologically the leading events in its
annals since Father Hennepin first looked upon the
Falls of Saint Anthony, and to connect, with some
degree of accuracy, the past with the present. These
then are our sources of information, and these men
the landmarks in a most romantic and interesting
history. In addition to those who have visited Minnesota for
the speciflc purpose of exploration, it is but just to
mention a few of the pioneers and fur traders whose
daring and enterprise have rendered their names his
toric. Of this class, Renville, Provengalle, Morrison,
and Faribault are worthy of especial notice in
the early records of the State. First in the list of
these sturdy sons of the border was Joseph RenvUle,

260 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUEOE.
who was born upon the soil of Minnesota in the year
1779. His father was aFrench trader and his mother
an Indian. At this period there were not more than
a half-dozen white families within the limits of the
vast territory now comprising Northern Illinois, Wis
consin, Iowa, and Minnesota.
The story of the life of this Christian pioneer forms
an interesting link between the past and present his
tory of Minnesota. At the age of ten years, young
Renville was taken to Canada by his father and his
education intrusted to a Roman Catholic priest.
Longing for his home and friends, he left school
before completing the prescribed course of study and
returned to the land of his birth — the wilderness of
the Northwest.
Soou after his return from Canada, Renville acted
as guide to General Pike and conducted that officer
and his command to the Falls of Saint Anthony. In
recognition of this service. Pike subsequently secured
for him the appointment of Government interpreter.
For many years he was an influential citizen of Min
nesota and for a long period held various local offlces
of importance. He was among the flrst, if not the
very first, to plant corn and raise stock in the territory.
Although bred in the Catholic faith, missionaries,
without regard to religious denomination, received a
cordial welcome at his trading-post. Years before
there was a church within three hundred miles of his
cabin, he made a journey to Prairie du Chien in
order that he might wed in accordance with the
forms of the Christian service. His Indian bride,
who, it may be added, was the first Dakota to unite
with the church and the first to die in its faith,
through the teaching of her husband had embraced

EARLY HISTOEY OF MINNESOTA. 261
Christianity some years before she had even seen
a missionary. After a long, eventful, and useful life
Renville died in 1856, and his death is said to have
been peaceful and happy, and a valuable legacy to
the church of which he had been an exemplary
member for more than a half-century.
Contemporaneous with Renville, was Louis Proven-
9alle, one of the most daring pioneers of Minnesota,
whose death occurred at Mendota in 1850. Stalwart
in physique and possessed of an inflexible will, he
was in every way well qualifled for the rough duties
of a frontier trader.
Provengalle was possessed of but little education,
and his books of Indian credit were understood only
by himself, as all of the entries were made in hiero
glyphics, and yet his white and dusky customers
never questioned their accuracy. This bold and fear
less trader was ever ready for the various emergencies
which often confronted him, and never shrank from
danger when the odds were against him. On one
occasion, a band of Indians entered his store and
threatened to seize his goods, whereupon he snatched
up a flrebrand and holding it to a keg of gun-powder
avowed his determination to blow himself and them
into the air if they took a single article. The pros
pect of being sent so suddenly to their "Happy
Hunting-Grounds " quite disconcerted the pillagers,
and they rushed headlong from the cabin, leaving
Provengalle in possession of his entire stock. It is
sufficient to add that after this episode, the Indians
were most careful not to incur the displeasure of
their white brother, and never gave him further
trouble. Among the most successful fur traders of Minne-

362 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
sota at the beginning of the present century, William
Morrison is justly given a position in the front rank.
As early as 1802, he established a line of trading-
posts far up the Mississippi, which in succeeding
years he extended to the Headwaters of the river.
This enterprising trader was doubtless the flrst
white man to look upon Lake Itasca, which he saw
in 1804, and had he known at the time that its out
let was the Mississippi, would have been entitled to
all the credit which, twenty-eight years later, was
accorded to Schoolcraft. It was not the business of
Morrison to give much attention to tlie geography
and topography of the country; on the contrary he
conflned himself to the matter-of-fact duties of his
occupation. He saw Itasca simply as one of the
thousands of lakes of Minnesota, but not in its dis
tinctive relation to the Great River. As an agent of
the American Fur Company, Morrison continued his
operations on the Upper Mississippi until 1826, dur
ing which period he did much to encourage immigra
tion to this interesting section of the country.
Before Wisconsin was admitted to the sisterhood of
States, all of that region lying east of the Mississippi
was regarded as part of Wisconsin Territory; but
after her admission as a State there was a consider
able population beyond her western boundary with
out any state or territorial government. At this
juncture of affairs, John Catlin, 'who had been secre
tary of the Territory of Wisconsin and had just been
elected Governor of the new State, believing that the
hitherto unclaimed portion of Minnesota was within
his jurisdiction, ordered an election for delegate to
the House of Representatives of the United States.
This election, which was held October thirtieth, 1848,

EAELY HISTOEY OF MINNESOTA. 263
resulted in nominating as candidates, Henry H.
Sibley and Henry M. Rice, the former of whom being
duly elected, proceeded to Washington and took his
seat early in 1849.
Sibley had scarcely had time to realize that he was
a representative of the State of Wisconsin, when, at
the close of the session of Congress on the third of
March, Minnesota was organized as a Territory and
that portion of Wisconsin which he had formerly
represented was now within the limits of Minnesota.
On the next day, March fourth. General Taylor was
inaugurated President, and a few days later, appointed
the following officers for the government of the Ter
ritory. Alexander Ramsay, Governor; Charles K.
Smith, secretary; A. Goodrich, chief-justice; and B.
B. Meekers and David Cooper, associate-justices of
the Supreme Court; H. L. Moss, United States dis
trict attorney; and A. M. Mitchell, United States
marshal. All of these officials took the oath of office
soon after and entered upon their respective duties.
On the flrst of June, 1849, Governor Ramsay issued
a proclamation announcing the organization of the
territorial government. The Governor also ordered
an election of members to the legislative assembly,
and a delegate to Congress; the latter office being
given to General Sibley, who was now returned to
Washington as the representative of Minnesota.
County officers were elected in November of the
same year; but the regular election for all officers,
including a delegate to Congress, was not held until
the flrst Monday of September, 1850. At this elec
tion. General Sibley was returned to Congress and
A. M. Mitchell became his colleague.
Minnesota was now fairly launched upon her polit-

364

DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.

ical career, and nothing seemed wanting to assure
for her a prosperous and enviable future. Her great
natural resources, her splendid commercial advan
tages, and her confident and enterprising citizens, all
tended to make her outlook most promising and
insure for her a brilliant and glorious destiny.

V'

^¦^ SAINT-PAUL IN 1841.

CHAPTER V.
THE "TWIN CITIES."
*F the numberless cities which have sprung
into existence since the discovery of the
American continent, few have attracted
such wide-spread attention as Saint Paul
and Minneapolis, and although the growth
of some of our great commercial centers
has been phenomenal, none have advanced
more rapidly in wealth and population than the
" Twin Cities" of the Northwest. What they were
and what they have become, the remarkable develop
ment of their resources, and when, how, and by whom
the foundations of an unparalleled prosperity were
laid, constitute one of the most interesting chapter?
in the history of Minnesota. SAINT PAUL.
After the explorations of Hennepin, only an occa
sional missionary or adventurous traveler found his
way to the Falls of Saint Anthony, and no perma
nent settlement was attempted' in this vicinity until
1838, when the first building was erected and a trad
ing-post located on the site of the present city of
Saint Paul. In 1841, the Jesuits established a mis
sion here and built a log chapel, which they dedicated
to Saint Paul, the name subsequently given to the
town which quickly sprung up around it.
(265)

266 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
Although the embryo Saint Paul was surveyed in
1845, there were but three families on the ground in
1847. In the same year it was laid out into village
streets, and in 1849 became the capital of the Terri
tory. At this time its entire population did not
exceed three hundred souls. A municipal govern
ment was established in 1854, when three thousand
inhabitants were claimed. At the close of 1856 the
population had increased to ten thousand. Very few
of the original buildings were to be seen at this
period, as the greater share of these relics of pioneer
days had been replaced by more commodious and
imposing residences and substantial business blocks.
In 1880, twenty-four years later, its population had
been multiplied by five, the census returns giving
fifty thousand. In 1849 the business of the place
amounted to $131,000, which increased so rapidly
that in 1854 it amounted to 16,000,000, with a
capital of $700,000 invested. Since that date its
financial development has been phenomenal, perhaps
not equaled by more than two or three cities in this
country. Saint Paul is most fortunate in its location, resting
as it does upon three elevations or plateaus over
looking the Mississippi, and in the rear, surrounded
by a gracefully undulating and elevated ridge, which,
for the most part, constitutes the residence portion
of the city. The central plateau is from eighty to
ninety feet above the surface of the river, with an
excellent steamboat landing at each extremity.
The original town was regularly laid out, but the
additions are irregular. The streets are well graded
and generally paved. The upper terrace or plateau is
underlaid by a stratum of limestone from twelve to

l?f }:,%',

(w)

368 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
twenty feet thick, and of this material many of the
buildings are constructed. Five bridges span the
river; electric street-car lines connect all parts of the
city, and reach also to Minneapolis, while a splendid
sewerage system drains it of all impurities.
Saint Paul is nominally at the head of navigation
of the Mississippi, the further progress of steamboats
up the river being checked by the rapids below the
Falls of Saint Anthony. The river at this point is
open from two hundred to two hundred and forty
days in the year, and many steamboats arrive and
depart daily. It is a thorough business city, its chief
thoroughfares being lined with large and well-built
stores and warehouses; the movement of its citizens
on the streets indicating the hurry and preoccupation
of pressing business pursuits. The casual visitor is
reminded of Chicago more than of any other city of the
West. At its back lie the lumber and grain producing
regions of Minnesota, Dakota, and Wisconsin, which
are yearly filling up with an intelligent and indus
trious people. Much of their produce finds an out
let at this port, and here they look for a great portion
of their supplies. The retail trade of Saint Paul is
very large, and it is also in great part the wholesale
center of a large circle of smaller towns.
Its double line of river bank affords ample wharfage;
while its network of railways connect it with Min
neapolis and every town of importance in Minnesota
and adjoining States. These secure permanence to
its prosperity, since railroads, even more than rivers,
make flourishing cities at the present day.
The State Capitol occupies an entire square on an
elevation overlooking the city and river. The ground
upon which this building stands is sightly, and it is

THB "TWIN CITIES." 369
to be hoped that the present structure will soon be
replaced by something more in keeping with the
resources, enterprise, and bright anticipations of
Saint Paul, and the grandest State of the great
Northwest. Among the institutions which are worthy of notice
the Library Association, the Minnesota Historical
Society, and Academy of Natural Sciences deserve
especial mention. The Library Association and
Historical Society have fine libraries, and are open to
the public daily; while the Academy of Sciences has
upon its shelves over a hundred and forty thousand
specimens in natural history.
In its early days the Historical Society was the
pride of Minnesota, and counted among its members
many of the representative men of the State and
country. To be named as its president or secretary
was an evidence of distinguished citizenship. Dating
from the organization of the territorial legislature in
1849, this society has had a most eventful and
interesting career. Through the enterprise of Gov
ernor Ramsey and Rev. E. D. Neil, its first president
and secretary, much valuable information has been
obtained relating to aboriginal times and the early
settlement of the State.
Saint Paul enjoys superior religious and educa
tional advantages, as its numerous schools, and
churches of all denominations, attest. Many of the
churches are elegant structures, and the ministrations
of the clergy are characterized by well-directed zeal.
The press of a city has much to do in promoting
its welfare and shaping its destinies, and the impor
tance of this powerful and influential factor in any
community can hardly be overestimated. A sketch

270 DISCOVEEY OF THB TEUE SOUECE.
of Saint Paul and Minneapolis would therefore seem
incomplete without some reference to the enterpris
ing journalists and journals of these cities that have
contributed so largely to their development. Through
their unbounded faith in the resources and future of
this section of our country and their unceasing labors
in its behalf, they have accomplished a work whose
value it would be difficult to determine,. and which
entitles them to rank among the benefactors of the
Northwest. The flrst to establish a newspaper at Saint Paul
was Professor A. Randall of Cincinnati, who had
been for some years identifled with the Geological
Survey of Minnesota; its name was the Minnesota
Register, and the date of its birth April twenty-
seventh, 1849. Although the initial number of this
sheet was printed in Cincinnati, it was dated at Saint
Paul, and was in every sense a Saint Paul newspaper
— a Minnesota newspaper, and the flrst ever published
in the Territory.
On the day following the issue of the Register
another paper, bearing the significant title of
Pioneer, made its appearance. Although the
Register had twenty-four hours the start of its
rival, it soon fell behind in circulation and popularity,
and but for its timely union with the Chronicle
would doubtless have collapsed on the very thresh
old of its career. In the meantime, Randall of the
former and James Hughes, who had established the
latter, severed their connection with their prot^g6,
the Chronicle and Register, leaving it in the
hands of Major McLean and D. Owens, under whom
it was conducted with success for some months in
the interest of the Whig party.

THE "TWIN CITIES." 271
Having interests outside of their paper, McLean
and Owens sold the establishment to David Olmstead,
a democrat, and it now became the organ of that
party in Minnesota. It is said by some local writers
that during the period the Chronicle and Register
was owned by Olmstead it had several editors, but
"for the most part, it edited itself."
The first number of the Minnesota Democrat was
brought out in December, 1849, by D. A. Robertson,
and at about the same time, C. J. Henniss, formerly
of Philadelphia, purchased the Chronicle and Regis
ter. A iew months later this sheet succumbed — the
type and presses being transferred to the Democrat.
The Minnesotian was an offshoot of the Pioneer,
and its first number was issued September seventeenth,
1851 . Its publication was undertaken by a committee,
with J. P. Owens in charge ofthe editorial and J. S.
Terry at the head of the financial department. On
the sixth of January following it passed into the hands
of Owens and Moore, under whose names it continued
for several years.
Since 1849 over a hundred daily and weekly news
papers have been established in the " Twin Cities,"
many of which have proved successful ventures and
justifled the enthusiastic confldence of their enter
prising founders. The history of these papers
alone, if presented in detail, would furnish material
for a large and interesting volume, but is entirely
beyond the aim of the present work, which is simply
to deal with the press of to-day, making slight
reference only to its early beginnings.
Prominent among the existing journals of Saint
Paul is the Pioneer-Press, an ably edited and
influential daily, originally the Pioneer, founded in

273 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
1849 by James Goodhue. Its success as a newspaper
and organ of public opinion may be inferred frora
the fact that since its publication it has superseded
or absorbed no less than twenty-flve of its contempo
raries. The Press, the latest and most important of
those acquired, was founded in 1861 by James
Wheelock, and united its fortunes with the Pioneer
in 1875, from which date to the present the paper
has borne the compound title of Pioneer-Press.
Journalism can not be said to have had any real
existence in Minnesota before the establishment of
this paper. The Pioneer-Press now extends its
circulation and influence over Minnesota and the
adjoining States. Its office in Saint Paul is said to
be one of the finest buildings of its kind in the
country. Next in point of seniority is the Saint Paul Dis
patch, an evening paper, founded in February, 1863,
by H. P. Hall, David Ramaley, and John W. Oun
ningham. The Dispatch has been a consistent
exponent and advocate of Republican principles from
its foundation to the present day, and an eminently
successful sheet from its start, when it presented only
four columns of news to its subscribers, a fifth column
being devoted to the editorial exposition of its politics.
It was enlarged twice during its first year owing to
an increasing demand and the growth of Repub
lican views. Its size has been considerably increased
since, and to-day it presents an amplitude of surface
nearly equal to that of the dailies of Chicago and New
York. In 1870, Ramaley withdrew from the partner
ship, Cunningham having parted with his interest
shortly after the founding of the paper. Thus,
Hall, in 1870, became sole proprietor and retained

THB "TWIN CITIES." 273
the ownership until September, 1876, when the plant
was disposed of to a company, at the head of which
was H. A. Castle. In July, 1880, the proprietorship
passed to W. R. Marshall and C. C. Andrews, the
latter gentleman retiring in the following year.
Castle again becoming the owner of the paper. In
1885, George K. Shaw succeeded Castle, and a few
months later, George Thompson, its present pro
prietor, undertook the management of the paper.
The Dispatch, after frequently changing hands,
has, at length, found its place as a powerful repre
sentative and index of public opinion. Under its
present vigorous management it has succeeded
beyond all precedent, and is to-day the recognized
leading Republican journal of the Northwest. It is
an eminently "wide-awake" channel of news,
having the franchise of the Associated Press and the
exclusive day news of the United Press — the two
greatest news-gathering associations in the world. It
has also a corps of several hundred special corre
spondents in various parts of the country and in
nearly every city of the Northwest. The decided
views of the Dispatch, in politics, have gained for it
a host of friends and supporters and added greatly
to its influence and circulation. It is to-day par
excellence the Republican paper of Saint Paul, and
its tone in all social and political matters has secured
for it a distinction second to no other newspaper in
•Minnesota and the adjoining States. Its prominent
position to-day is doubtless an augury of still greater
success in the future.
January flfteenth, 1881, the first issue of the Saint
Paul Globe appeared as an organ of the Democracy of
the Northwest. In 1885 it passed into the control
18

274 DISCOVEEY OF THB TEUE SOUECE.
of the Globe Publishing Company, and has since
been recognized as a great and influential journal
under the efficient management of Hon. Lewis Baker,
formerly of the Wheeling Register, assisted by Henry
T. Black. It has deservedly attained an immense
circulation in Saint Paul and Minneapolis; in the
latter of which its patrons are nearly as numerous
as in the former city. It also circulates through
out Minnesota and all the adjoining States. The
Globe publishing office in the capital city is a
stately ten-story, brown stone building, while in
Minneapolis, the company has erected a magnifl
cent ediflce similar to their headquarters in Saint
Paul. Under its able management the Globe has
attained the position of the leading Democratic
journal of the Northwest.
The Daily News, founded in December, 1887, is
the junior member of the Saint Paul daily press. In
February, 1892, its control passed to the iVews Publish
ing Company, of which Clarence E. Sherin is the
president and general manager. It was originally a
sheet of four pages, but is now composed of eight
and on Saturdays of sixteen pages. Independent in
politics, it is earnest in its advocacy of measures
promotive of the public good. The great increase
of its circulation has rendered necessary an enlarge
ment of its premises and an important addition to its
plant. It has already attained a well-recognized
standing as a purveyor of news and an index of pubhc
opinion. The current literature of Saint Paul is not con
flned to the daily press. Some of its ablest period
icals are published in the forih of weeklies and
monthlies, and cater to the wants of the citizen

-, THE.: "jrwiN CITIES." 375
under various titles. 'Herein the threads of history,
science, and art are ,woven_ into Northwestern life.
The numerous departments . of industry are well
and; faithfully represented,, while room is found to
minister to the religious sentiment of the various
churches. Among the weekly publications of Saint Paul the
following may be ennmevated: . The: Herald, Jour
nal of Commerce, Northwestern Chronicle, Trade
Reporter, West Saint Paul Times,. and others of
equal merit. The monthlies and bi-monthlies are
probably still more numerous ahdivaried, including
the Northivestern Magazine, Book Talk, Financial^
News, Odd Fellow, Woman's Record, and North
western Farmer.
There are many points of interest and places of
resort in and around Saint ..Paul,, aniong which
Carver's Cave, Fountain Cave,' White Bear and Bald
Eagle lakes are the most frequently visited.
On the eastern bank of the' Mississippi, near the
shore, and within the city limits, is the celebrat'sd
Carver's Cave, which is reached by an opening in
Dayton Bluff. It was in the interior of this cave
that Captain Carver made his famous treaty with the
Dakota Indians.. He describes it as a "remarkable
cave of amazing depth, having an entrance about ten
feet wide, and an arch within about fifteen' feet high
and about ^thirty broad, the bottom consisting of clear
white sahd." .. :„. ,
Concerning the lake and some other features which
constitute striking peculiarities. of .this cave, Carvet.
doubtless gave more or less .exaggerated accounts,
still, in view of the fact that he' had no instruments
or other means of taking measurements, it is perhaps

376 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
after all not strange that he differs materially from
the figures given by more recent investigation. Con
tinuing his description of the cave, he explains that
about thirty feet from its entrance he came to a
lake, the water of which was transparent and extended
to an indefinite distance. Being unable to acquire a
correct knowledge of its dimensions, he says: "I
threw a pebble toward the interior part of it with
my utmost strength; I could hear that it fell into
the water, and notwithstanding it was of a small size,
it caused an astonishing noise that reverberated
through all these gloomy regions. I found in this
cave many Indian hieroglyphics, which appeared very
ancient, for time had nearly covered them with moss,
so that it was with difficulty I could trace them.
They were cut in a rude manner upon the inside
of the wall, which was composed of a stone so
extremely soft that it might be easily penetrated
with a knife."
It is to be regretted that while Carver found suffi
cient excuse for complaining that Hennepin and
La Hontan were often in error as to their estimates,
he was frequently wide of the mark himself in many
of his calculations, and those who visit Carver's Cave
to-day will hardly reconcile their own view to that
portrayed by its famous discovere"
Fountain Cave is two miles from the city, and
derives its name from a small st 3am which fiows
through it, and which, doubtless, was the originating
cause of the cave. It contains several chambers,
some of ample dimensions, and it is said that at one
thousand feet from the opening in the rock no, termi
nation has yet been discovered. The rock is of pure
white, soft sandstone, and the entrance to the cave

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378 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
about fifteen feet in width. About three hundred
feet from its mouth a cascade, some twenty feet in
height, falls into the stream. This cave is a favorite
retreat during the summer months, and presents
many features of interest to the geologist.
White Bear Lake, twelve miles from Saint Paul,
and about an equal distance from Minneapolis, is
already a popular pleasure resort. This lake is abou fc
four miles in length, and nearly midway between its
eastern and western shores is a long forest-covered
islet. The water of the lake is clear, pure, and of
the color of the bright-blue sky overhead.
The largest fleet of sailing yachts to be found on
any western lake is seen floating on White Bear,
many of them costly and of elegant construction.
Large hotels have been erected on the eastern and
southern banks for the accommodation of visitors,
while picturesque villas dot its western shore, owned
chiefly by wealthy business men of Saint Paul and
Minneapolis, who send their families here to reside
during the summer, and join them each evening after
tne close of business.
White Bear is the oldest summer resort in the
State, and " camping out " on its shores is reduced to
a science. We found several encampments near the
lake large enough to be called villages, many of the
tents being as commodious and comfortably furnished
as the parlors and bedrooms of a well-ordered city
residence. Bald Eagle Lake lies a mile beyond White Bear.
It is a beautiful sheet of water, but not so large as the
latter. It has high banks and is well stocked with
several varieties of fish, which have made it quite
famous in this particular. A few pretty cottages

THE "TWIN CITIES." 379
have been built here and occupied as summer resi
dences. Some years since a mineral spring was dis
covered a short distance from the lake and a pavil
ion erected over it by the late Dr. Post of Saint Paul,
who also built a summer home near by.
In the country adjacent to White Bear and Bald
Eagle there are numerous smaller lakes, which are
frequently sought by those who delight in flshing
and duck hunting. The city park and race
course are located on the shores of Lake Como, two
miles from the center of Saint Paul.
MINNEAPOLIS.
Having viewed Saint Paul and its surroundings, we
now proceed to a brief description of its sister city.
Saint Anthony, now within the corporate limits of
Minneapolis, saw its beginning in December, 1849,
although a single log cabin stood upon its site twelve
years before this date. The flrst dwelling in Minne
apolis proper was erected during the same winter by
Colonel John H. Stevens, who had served with dis
tinction under Scott and Taylor in Mexico. When
his services were no longer required upon the tented
fleld, this gallant soldier sought a home on the
frontier, and, proceeding to Minnesota, built his rustic
cottage on the west bank of the Mississippi near the
Falls of Saint Anthony.
The name " Minneapolis" is compounded of Indian
and Greek — Minne being the Sioux for water, and
polls the Greek for city, thus signifying the Water
City, or City of Waters. In a lecture before the
Minneapolis Lyceum in 1855, Colonel Stevens said:
" One of our early and most perplexing difficulties
was the selection of a name for our embryo city.

280 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
Colonel James M. Goodhue thought 'All Saints' to
be a good name. Miss Mary Schofield wrote many
letters for publication in Eastern papers and always
dated from 'All Saints.' At our first claim meeting
in 1851, ' Lowell ' was adopted. At a public meeting
in November of that year our entire population was
present and we hit upon 'Albion.' This name the
citizens soon got tired of, and at last as a compromise
it was left to George I). Bowman, editor of the Saint
Anthony Express. Mr. Bowman proposed, 'Minne
apolis,' which met some opposition at first, but he
came out every week with an article in his paper on
'Minneapolis,' and all finally swallowed it."
Whatever may be said of the various names which
were suggested, discussed, and applied to this growing
metropolis of the Upper Mississippi, it is now uni
versally admitted that Minneapolis is a happy com
bination of the native Sioux and classic Greek, and
beautifully expresses the idea which its author
desired to convey.
Minneapolis is located on what was formerly
known as the Military Reserve of Fort Snelling, a
tract of land nine miles square, assigned to and sur
rounding the fort for purposes of forage. In 1855
Congress granted the right of pre-emption to the
settlers, since which its growth has been most
remarkable. The city proper is situated on the
west side of the river, while Saint Anthony, which
was united to it by mutual agreement, is on the
east side, the two forming one city under the name
of Minneapolis.
Minneapolis is ten miles above Saint Paul and is
built on a broad esplanade overlooking the river and
its falls, rapids, and picturesque bluffs. The streets

THE "TWIN CITIES." 381
are generally laid out at right angles eighty feet
in width, bordered by sidewalks twenty feet wide,
with double rows of trees on each side throughout
the residence portion of the city. The founders of
Western cities have gained wisdom from the mistakes
of those of the Eastern coast. Notwithstanding the
broad expanse of country, which to the early colonists
seemed limitless, the cities and towns built on and near
the Atlantic seaboard were modeled upon European
plans, even to the narrow streets and compact rows
of buildings. Not so in the West. The original
plans of our Western towns are so wisely designed
that no future increase of population, with its attend
ant demands for dwelling and business houses, can
ever transform them into an aggregation of dense,
stifling streets and lanes, such as are too often found
in most of our Eastern cities. Health and beauty are
two objects which have been kept steadily in view in
their foundation. Though their rude beginnings
have not always been attractive, the possibilities of
beauty are always there, and time is sure to develop
them. A suspension bridge connecting Saint Anthony
with Minneapolis was built in 1855. It was not only
the flrst bridge built in Minnesota, but was also the
first to span the Mississippi. A ferry-boat established
here in 1851 brought its proprietor, that summer,
three hundred dollars. In 1855, the receipts from
this ferry had increased to twelve thousand. The
population of the united towns amounted to over a
hundred and fifty thousand in 1890, with the certain
prospect of doubling and even trebling these figures
in a very few years. The river here is about six hun
dred yards in width, and above Saint Anthony Falls

383 DISCOVERY OP THE TEUE SOUEOE.
rushes through low banks in foaming, tremulous
rapids, until it reaches the precipice, whence it
springs in a single leap down a distance of sixteen
feet. Thence it proceeds in a series of rapids over
piles of rock in its bed for several hundred yards,
the great descent of eighty-two feet being made in a
little less than two miles. Below the Falls the cliffs
are bold and picturesque, the character of the
scenery varying.
Concerning the height of the Falls and the breadth
of the river at this point, much incorrect information
has been published. Hennepin, who was the first
white man to visit the spot, states them to be from
fifty to sixty feet high. It was this explorer who
gave them the name which they now bear, in honor
of Saint Anthony of Padua, whom he had taken for
the protection of his discovery. Carver reduces their
height to about thirty feet. His strictures upon Hen
nepin, however, whom he charges with exaggeration,
might with propriety be retorted upon himself, and
we feel strongly inclined to speak of this daring
adventurer as he spoke of his predecessor: "The
good Father, I fear, too often had no other founda
tion for his accounts than report, or, at most, a
slight inspection." Lieutenant Pike, who is more
accurate than any traveler whom we have followed,
states the perpendicular fall to be sixteen and a half
feet. It was again measured in 1817, with a plumb-
line, from the table rock from which the water
was falling, and found to be the same. The meas
urement at this time was made with a rough water-
level, which made it about flfteen feet. The dif
ference of a foot is trifling and might depend upon
the place where the investigation was made; but we

THE "TWIN CITIES.*' ^83
can not account for the statement made by School
craft that the river has a perpendicular pitch of
forty feet, and this as late as fourteen years after
Pike's measurement.
The breadth of the river near the brink of the fall
is five hundred and ninety-four yards. Below the
fall it contracts to about two hundred yards. There
is a considerable rapid both above and below, and a
portage of two hundred and sixty poles in length
was usually made here in pioneer days. The differ
ence of level between the place of disembarking and
reloading was stated by Pike to be fifty-eight feet,
which is undoubtedly very near the truth. The
entire fall to the foot of the rapids, which extend
down the river several miles, may be estimated at
about one hundred feet.
The Falls of Saint Anthony are not without a
legend to hallow their scenery and enhance the
interest which of themselves they are well calculated
to awaken. The following tragic story was current
some years ago among the Indians and white settlers
in the neighborhood of the Falls: A Chippewa girl,
bearing the name of Ampato Sapa, which signifies
" The Dark Day," was wedded to an Indian of the
Dakota tribe. Ampato was not beautiful but young
and proud, and the mother of two lovely children.
For several years they lived together happily, and
both doted on their little ones with a depth of feeling
seldom equaled by more civilized races. Becoming
great as a hunter, the husband of Ampato was con
sidered a man of importance, and many of the sur
rounding families sought his friendship and protection,
and shared the products of his chase. Some of them,
anxious to strengthen their interest with the success-

384 DISCOVERY OE THE TRUE SOURCE.
ful hunter, urged him to form a connection with
their family, telling him that a second wife was indis
pensable to a man of his standing, who would
probably soon be acknowledged as a chief. The
daughter of an infiuential man was finally presented
to him, and, animated with the desire of attaining to
high honor in his nation by a union with the daugh
ter of a man of influence, he took a second wife with
out mentioning the subject to the young mother of
his children. Desirous of conciliating his first wife,
for whom he still retained much regard, he intro
duced the subject to her in these words:
" You know, Ampato, that I can love no woman
so fondly as I do you. With deep regret I have seen
you subjected to toils which must be oppressive and
from which I would gladly release you, yet I know of
no other way of doing so than by associating with
you in the duties of our household one who shall
relieve you from the trouble of entertaining the
numerous guests whom my growing importance in
the nation collects around me. I have therefore
resolved upon taking another wife, but she shall
always be subject to your control."
With the deepest concern, his wife listened to this
unexpected announcement. She remonstrated with
him in the kindest terms, and tearfully entreated, by
every consideration her devoted love could suggeot,
that he would not let another take her place in his
affections. The Indian, with much duplicity, still
concealed from her the secret of his marriage with
another, while she put forth her strongest appeals in
the effort to convince him that she was equal to the
tasks imposed upon her. She pleaded all the endear
ments of their past life, dwelling on his former fond-

THE "TWIN CITIES." 285
ness for her, his regard for her happiness and that
of their children, and cautioned him to beware of
the consequences of uniting himself to a woman of
whom he knew very little. Finding her still opposed
to his wishes, he at length informed her that further
opposition on her part was useless, as he had already
selected another partner; and that if she could not
receive his new wife as a friend, she must receive her
as an encumbrance, for he had resolved she should
reside with him.
Deeply distressed at this information, she stole
away from the cabin w'th her infant and fled to her
father. She remained with him for a time, until
some Indians with whom he lived went up the Mis
sissippi on a winter hunt. When they returned in
early spring, with their canoes loaded with skins,
they encamped near the Falls. After they had left
in the morning, Ampato lingered near the spot, and
soon launching a light canoe, entered it with her
babes. She paddled down the stream chanting her
death-song. Her friends saw her only too late, and
their attempts to arrest her progress were of no avail.
She was heard to sing in doleful strain of the past
happiness she had enjoyed while she was the sole
object of her husband's affections. Finally her voice
was drowned in the roar of the cataract; for a
moment the canoe and its hapless freight trembled
on the brow of the watery precipice, and in an instant
more mother and children were lost forever in the
foam below.
"Yet, that Deatli-Song, they say, is heard
Above the gloomy waters' roar,
When trees are by the night-wind stirred,
And darkness broods o'er wave and shore."

286 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOUECB.
The Falls are divided by Cataract Island, from
which a dam has been constructed to the eastern
shore to furnish water-power for manufacturing pur
poses, and nearly the whole volume of water now
rushes through the western channel. The Falls may
be seen with equal advantage from either shore, but
the best view is obtained from the center of the sus
pension bridge which crosses the river above them
and from which the rapids may be seen boiling and
rushing immediately beneath.
These Falls furnish abundant power for manu
facturing purposes, and as early as 1856, large mills
were already in operation at Saint Anthony, in which
millions of feet of lumber were annually sawn. The
logs which flll the Mississippi above the Falls, some
times even to the point of obstructing navigation,
all have their destination at Minneapolis. Here they
are converted into lumber and laths and sent to
distant sections of the country, perhaps in the form
of huge rafts again set afloat upon the river. The
lumber business of this city is immense, probably
exceeding that of any other city in the country. It
is equaled only by the flour-mills of this rapidly
growing western giant.
Although originally termed the "City of Waters,"
Minneapolis is to-day more widely known as the
"Flour City," owing to its numerous flour-mills
which now line both banks of the river from the
southern to the extreme northern limit of the city.
There is no doubt that Minneapolis stands at the
head of the flour manufacturing of the world. She
certainly has no equal in this particular in this
country or Europe. The wheat raised in such
immense quantities on neighboring farms is ground

FALLS OF MINNEHAHA.
(387)

288 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
into flour and shipped to every corner of the habitable
globe. The tourist who visits the "Twin Cities" will dis
cover at a glance that Minneapolis is more a manufact
uring than a commercial city. Saint Paul monopolizes
much of the commerce of the Upper Mississippi, as
steamboats can only ascend to Fort Snelling, some
miles below the Falls of Saint Anthony, hence Minne
apolis depends largely upon the railroads for trans
portation. But while Saint Paul measures miles of
streets lined with stores and warehouses, the " Flour
City" exhibits an equal number of mills and factories.
Minneapolis is a city of beautiful homes, and it is
perhaps no exaggeration to say that few, if any, of
our American cities present greater natural attractions.
The streets, as we have said, are broad and amply
shaded, and the residences are, many of them, very
handsomely built, and surrounded by ornamental
gardens. The University of Minnesota is located here, and
there are also several other important educational
institutions; while the public schools are in every
respect among the best in the country. Of her
libraries, the Athenseum ranks first, having an excel
lent and commodious reading-room, and on its shelves
over twenty thousand volumes; the University pos
sesses a library of several thousand, chiefly works of
a scientific character. There are over a hundred
churches of all denominations, and some of the sacred
edifices are very elegant structures.
The press of Minneapolis is not among the least
of the latter's claims to distinction. It is in most
respects on a par with that of cities many times its
size, its editors and managers being, for the most part.

THE "TWIN CITIES." 289
men of large and liberal views, and writers of experf
ence, judgment, and tact. The dailies supply all
the news up to the latest moment of going to press,
and the editorials, as a rule, are tolerant yet earnest
in dealing with local, state, or national issues.
Almost coeval with the city itself is the Minne
apolis Tribune, an important journal, founded in
1866. It is a morning paper, and publishes also a
noon and an evening edition. In 1877, the plant
was purchased by David Blakely, whose energy and
tact may be said to have laid the foundation of
its ultimate success as an exponent of Republican
principles and a purveyor of cosmopolitan news.
Blakely was joined by General A. B. Nettleton, who
took a half interest in the paper in 1884. These
gentlemen sold out to A. J. Blethen of the Kansas
City Journal, and W. E. Haskell, son of E. B.
Haskell, editor and joint proprietor of the Boston
Herald. In 1888 Haskell purchased the interest of
of his partner, and, in conjunction with Charles M.
Palmer of the Northwestern Miller, assumed entire
control of the paper. In the following year Haskell
became sole proprietor, C. M. Schultz being manag
ing editor. The ownership is now vested in ex-Senator
Gilbert A. Pierce and W. J. Murphy of Grand
Forks, North Dakota. These gentlemen are
thoroughly identified with the newspaper business,
and under their able management the Tribune has
attained a great success, its circulation embracing
Minnesota and extending to the adjoining States of
Wisconsin, Iowa, and the Dakotas.
In 1890 the Tribune met with a great disaster, its
handsome building having been destroyed by fire.
A commodious structure has since been erected, and
19

390 DISCOVEKY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
at the present date, 1893, the paper is a potent factor
in all that concerns the interests of the section it
represents. The Evening Journal was established in 1878, and
has attained a comparatively wide circulation. In
November, 1885, it passed under the control of its
present management, Lucius Swift, J. S. McLain,
W. E. Brownlee, and W. B. Chamberlain. In poli
tics the Journal claims to be independent, with a
leaning toward Republicanism, and aims to mold
public opinion upon most topics of general interest.
In the discussion of social and public questions it
expresses its views fearlessly, and occasionally with
effect. Its news columns are supplied by the Asso
ciated Press and the United Press, and furnish liber
ally the latest intelligence of the day upon every
matter of importance to its readers. Special corre
spondents throughout Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michi
gan, Dakota, Iowa, and in the East, add interest to
its columns.
The Times is the junior member of the Minneap
olis daily press, having made its first appearance
October flrst, 1889, in the form of a single sheet. Its
growth in size has been rapid to a double sheet on
week days and a sixteen-page paper on Sundays. The
reports of the Associated and United Press are
utilized in its news columns, while a large number
of well-known correspondents in most of the prin
cipal cities enliven its pages with well-written
articles on general topics of interest. The Times is
a consistent advocate of Democratic principles, and
in the discussion of politics and social questions is
uniformly fair and liberal. The paper is owned by
a company, of which F. G. Winston of Minneapolis

THE "TWIN CITIES." 291
is the president; John Blanchard, a gentleman of
large experience in the conduct of a newspaper, is
editor-in-chief; the management being under the able
supervision of Frank L. Thresher.
Intellectually and materially, Minneapolis presents
all the features of a progressive city, and, if space
permitted, extended reference could be made to sev
eral of its numerous weekly and monthly publications,
which are mostly of a high order, and contribute to
the moral and physical advantages of its citizens.
Prominent among the weeklies is the Northwestern
Presbyterian, under the able editorship of Rev. John
B. Donaldson, D.D.; the Saturday Spectator, an
admirably conducted paper, replete with reliable
information upon most subjects of interest to the
reading public. The Mississippi Valley Lumberman,
edited by J. Newton Nind, is the representative of
the immense lumber interests of the Northwest. The
Northwestern Miller, of vast practical utility to the
milling interest and, indirectly, to the growers of
wheat. The Farmers' Tribune; the Temperance
Review; the Canadian- Amer ican, and others with
equal claim to notice, including Sunday German,
Swedish, and Norwegian weeklies.
Among the leading monthlies are the Minnesota
Farmer, Mechanical World, Midland Monthly, and
Housekeeper. In short, the journalism of this mod
ern city of scarcely a half century's growth would
be creditable to any Eastern city of its size and thrice
its age.
A summer resort has become almost indispensable
to many during the heated period of the year. Fail
ing health, the desire for change from city life, or
the demands of fashion, seeks some favorite watering-

393 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
place or rustic retreat for rest, recuperation, or pleas
ure. These are found in the East at more or less con
siderable distances from the principal cities. In the
Northwest the change or relief is found within easy
reach of the home, and no cities in the United States
are more happily situated in this respect than Saint
Paul and Minneapolis. Beautiful lakes and scenery,
at comparatively short distances from either city, are
reached by railway or electric cars within the space of
a half hour, and afford all the rest and enjoyment
tired nature craves, or that is obtainable at an inland
watering-place. A healthful, invigorating climate,
surrounded by natural beauty and facilities for bath
ing in the crystal waters, or sailing in magnificently
appointed yachts or steamboats, form an essential
element of pleasure and relief to be found within, or
a little beyond, the city limits. The summer tourist
can here indulge in the delights of fishing or hunting.
Points of special beauty and interest, gratifying to the
senses, are numerous in the neighborhood of these
lakes, and a month's residence on their banks will
not exhaust their treasures and possibilities.
We have before alluded to the system of beautiful
lakes easily accessible from Saint Paul, but those in
the immediate vicinity of Minneapolis are equally
inviting and attractive, and in the opinion of some,
still more so.
Before visiting the lake resorts, however, we have
a word to say about the Falls of Minnehaha, a spot
invested with romance by Longfellow's poetical allu
sion to them in his deathless song of "Hiawatha,"
as the "Laughing Water" of the Indian. These
Falls are about six miles in a southeasterly direction
from the city, and can be reached by railway or the

THE "TWIN CITIES." 393
electric cars. The flow reaches them through a
silvery stream which issues from several lakes on
the western and southwestern sides of the city,
and that of the large and beautiful Minnetonka, the
current itself, having passed the Falls, winding its
way to the Father of Waters. The height of the
cataract is about flfty feet, and the "Laughing
Water " plunges, over a semicircular ledge of rock,
while a cloud of spray ascends from the basin beneath,
and together they produce an extremely pleasing
picture. Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, whose proximity to
the city has rendered them, perhaps, less select than
others at a somewhat greater distance, are, neverthe
less, highly attractive as resorts, and multitudes of
tired citizens flock to them during the summer
months for relaxation and pleasure. Lake Calhoun,
the nearest, is not much occupied by "campers,"
probably owing to its want of seclusion. Many
summer guests take rooms at tbe Lyndale Hotel on
the margin of the lake, and find health and recrea
tion at this pleasant retreat so conveniently accessible
from the city.
Lake Harriet, about a mile beyond Lake Calhoun,
is also very attractive. A large number of pretty
cottages surround it, and quite a number of well-
appointed tents, made habitable and comiortable by
their tenants for the season. Fishing in this lake is
invariably productive of excellent results.
The surrounding scenery is picturesque and beauti
ful, the air pure and dry, and the summer heat
rarely exceeds 75°. Pleasure-boats float on the sur
face of tne clear water, affording agreeable relief
from weariness to the jaded citizen whose temporary

(894)

THE "TWIN CITIES." 295
home, with his family, is on the banks of pretty
Lake Harriet.
Lake Minnetonka, in point of extent, far exceeds,
and in' beauty of environment is unapproached by,
the smaller lakes above named. This is the favorite
retreat of well-to-do citizens of the "Twin Cities"
and tourists in search of the beautiful. It is only
fifteen miles southwest of Minneapolis. The length
of the lake is eighteen miles by five in width.
The virgin forest surrounding it lends enchantment
to the scene, and shade and repose are found by the
weary tourist or transient visitor on the greensward
beneatii the foliage. Small villages have sprung up
on the banks of the lake, with artistic summer cot
tages, villas, and handsome hotels in their near
neighborhood. The woods and more sequestered
portions of Minnetonka abound with pheasants,
woodcock, rabbits, and squirrels. The village of
Excelsior, on the south shore of the lake, eighteen
miles from the city, was incorporated in 1879, and
has a haven for the large and elegant steamboats that
ply on its waters. Wayzata rests on the opposite
shore, and is fifteen miles distant from Minneapolis.
Many pretty cottages cluster around these lake vil
lages, and several fine yachts are owned by the
visitors — residents of Minneapolis and of neighboring
cities. Strangers from outside the city, and from a
distance, are in most cases quartered at the hotels and
hostelries overlooking the beautiful lake. Outdoor
life at Minnetonka can be indulged in and enjoyed
with the most beneficial hygienic effects, and visitors
from all parts of the country, with impaired vitality,
come during the summer months to seek and find the
boon of restored energies.

VIEWS OF MINNEAPOLIS IN 1891.
(296)

CHAPTER VI.
PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION.
EARLY a month was spent in Minne
apolis, occupied chiefly in correspond
ence with those whom I desired to
form my party, and in such other
preparation as was deemed necessary
to place the expedition on a practical
footing. Preferring the companionship and
co-operation of those who were naturally interested in
the geographical problem which I had undertaken to
solve, invitations were extended to many eminent
geographers and scientists throughout the country,
especially to those who had doubts as to tbe propriety
of accepting the lake beyond Itasca as the True,
Source of the Mississippi. This correspondence led
to the acceptance of several who were invited, while
some others, for reasons stated in their replies, were
not then in a position to leave for so long a period
their business and professional duties.
It was the opinion of a few cavilers that our expedi
tion would not include any who were not thoroughly
committed to my views on the question of the Ulti
mate Source of the Great River. This supposition,
however, was without the slightest foundation, and
in order to disabuse the mind of the reader at once
of the impression that I could have been in any sense
partial to advocates of my claim, I herewith append
(297)

298 DISCOVERY OE THE TRUE SOUECE.
the names of those who were solicited to accompany
me to the Itascan Basin, many of whom are a_mong
our leading geographers, map and educational pub
lishers, who, I felt, were likely to be more or less
interested in the objects of the proposed explorations.
I may here add that I especially desired to make it
clear to my critics that I courted the fullest investi
gation, and determined that no pains or expense should
be spared to insure the attainment of this purpose.
The following is a list of those who were invited to
form my Second Expedition, or send representatives:
Pearce Giles, Camden, New Jersey, journalist; Gen
eral E. W. Whitaker, Washington, late chief of staff
to Generals Custer, Kilpatrick, and Sheridan; Rev.
John Calvin Crane, Worcester, Massachusetts; Win
field Scott Shure, York, Pennsylvania, artist and
journalist; Fred J. Trost, Toledo, Ohio, photographer;
Rev. George A. Peltz, D. D., LL. D., Philadelphia;
George F. Oram, Chicago, map and atlas publisher;
Rand, McNally and Company, Chicago; Mathews,
Northrup and Company, Buffalo; E. H. Butler and
Company, Philadelphia; Dr. Jacques W. Red way.
New York, editor. Geographical Magazine; W. H.
Gamble, Philadelphia, geographer; D. S. Knowlton,
editor, Boston Times; George Thompson, editor.
Saint Paul Dispatch; Alfred James Murphy, secre
tary, Michigan State Senate; J. E. Calkins, city
editor, Democrat-Gazette, Davenport, Iowa; N. D.
H. Clark, superintendent. Station C, New York post
office; Hon. D. Sinclair, postmaster; editor, Wi
nona Republican, Minnesota; Captain A. N. Husted,
professor of mathematics. State Normal College, Al
bany, New York; R. G. Th waites, secretary, Wisconsin
Historical Society, Madison; Dr. A. Munsell, editor.

PEEPAEATION FOE SECOND EXPEDITION. 399
Trade Journal, Dubuqiie, Iowa; J. L. Smith, map
publisher, Philadelphia; Dr. Charles E. Harrison,
secretary. Academy of Natural Sciences, Davenport,
Iowa; Prof. H. H. Rassweiler, geographer, Chicago;
William M. Bradley, map publisher, Philadelphia;
Charles H. Ames, of the firm of D. C. Heath and
Company, educational publishers, Boston; George H.
Adams, map publisher. New York; Charles L. Davis,
editor, Argus, Red Wing, Minnesota; George H.
Benedict, map publisher, Chicago; Charles Lubrecht,
map publisher. New York; Prof. H. D. Densmore,
Beloit College, Wisconsin; Prof. W. H. Pratt, Dav
enport Academy of Natural Sciences, Iowa; C. B.
Palmer, attorney at law. Saint Paul, Minnesota;
Gaylord Watson, map publisher. New York; Albert
W. Whitney, botanist, Beloit College, Wisconsin;
Hon. W. H. H. Johnston, Saint Paul; Dr. George
Crocker, Minneapolis; A. H. Hubbard, publisher,
Philadelphia; Hon. Samuel Adams, member of the
Minnesota Historical Society, Monticello, Minnesota;
Hon. L. A. Evans, Saint Cloud, Minnesota.
In addition to the foregoing, several colleges and
universities were also invited to send representatives;
among these were Oberlin College, Ohio; Cornell
University, Ithaca, New York; Beloit College, Wis
consin, and the University of Michigan. Of those
who responded to my invitation the following, and
several others who joined us at Park Rapids, were
duly enrolled as members of the expedition: Pearce
Giles, Rev. John C. Crane, Winfield Scott Shure,
Dr. A. Munsell, Fred J. Trost, Daniel S. Knowlton,
Dr. Charles E. Harrison, Albert W. Whitney.
As some zealous critics have seen fit to question
the qualifications of the gentlemen who composed my

300 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
former party, it has been suggested that it might
not be inappropriate to introduce with brief reference
the companions of my second journey to the Head
waters of the Mississippi. I therefore conclude to
present a short sketch of each, which is done with
the full conviction that several are worthy of more
extended mention than can consistently be accorded
them within the limits of this volume.
The oldest in years and the first to avail himself
of my invitation was Pearce Giles, formerly of London,
England, now of Camden, New Jersey. Mr. Giles,
who had just passed his seventy-fifth year, came to
America over twenty years ago. His father was an
officer in the British navy, and himself a graduate
of the Royal Naval College, Greenwich, near London.
He was thirty years in the Home Department of the
English Government, and retired with a handsome
pension in 1871. He has traveled extensively in
Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, and the record of
his observations in the various countries he has
visited constitutes a most interesting chapter in a
long and eventful life. Although not an active
member of my expedition of 1881, Mr. Giles accom
panied me to the Upper Mississippi, assisted in the
organization of the party, and was indirectly identi
fied with us throughout.
Rev. John Calvin Crane of Worcester, Massachu
setts, is a native of Grafton in that State, and was
born October sixteenth, 1837. He graduated at the
Lancaster Academy at the age of sixteen, and soon
after was recognized as a special correspondent of the
Boston Post. Mr. Crane was among the pioneers of
Minnesota, having been a resident of the State as
early as 1858. A year or two later he returned to

PEEPAEATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 301
the_, "Bay State," and became a contributor to the
Worcester Oazette, and several other New England
publications. He is a member of the Worcester
Antiquarian Society; a resident member of the New
England Historical and Genealogical Society, and a
member and correspondent of the historical societies
of Cheshire and Lancashire, England. From boy
hood, Mr. Crane has been deeply interested in every
thing relating to the Mississippi and its True Source,
and joined me as a correspondent of the Boston
Herald. Winfield Scott Shure is a native of Maryland, but
has been for several years past a resident of York,
Pennsylvania. Mr. Shure is a young man of con
siderable promise as an artist and journalist. He
joined me as the representative of the York Daily
Age and other papers, and rendered much valuable
assistance in the organization and equipment of
our expedition.
Dr. A. Munsell of Dubuque, Iowa, is a native of
Kentucky, a man of mature years, the editor and
proprietor of the Dubuque Trade Journal, and a
gentleman of comprehensive literary attainments.
Residing on the banks of the mighty river, he has
been for many years greatly interested in the contro
versy relating to its Headwaters, and the columns
of his paper have ever been open to all who were dis
posed to discuss the question of the Fountain-head.
Fred J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio, the photographer
of the expedition, was born at Volknitz, Pomerania,
Prussia, March sixteenth, 1852. He came to this
country with his parents in 1854, and at the age of
sixteen began the study of photography, which has
since been his occupation. Mr. Trost bas been con-

302 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOURCE.
nected with some of the best establishments of the
country, and for many years has been a member of
the American Photographers' Association. His gal
lery at Toledo ranks among the first establishments
of its kind in Ohio.
Daniel S. Knowlton, editor and proprietor of the
Boston Time.9, was born in Biddeford, Maine. Com
pleting a preparatory course in the schools of his
native State, he entered Yale College at the age of
eighteen, from which he graduated four years later
with the highest honors of his class. Mr. Knowlton
is a young man of advanced attainments in most
branches of learning, and his long journey from
Boston to Minnesota sufflciently attests his interest
in the geographical question which led him to set
aside important business engagements in order that
he might join us in our investigations.
Dr. Charles E. Harrison, formerly president and
now librarian of the Davenport Academy of Natural
Sciences, is a native of Kentucky, but has been for
many years a citizen of Iowa. His connection with
the Academy at Davenport brought him to my
notice, and I found him an enthusiast upon every
topic relating to the natural history of the Valley of
the Mississippi.
Albert W. Whitney of Beloit, Wisconsin, is a
graduate of Beloit College, in which his father,
H. N. Whitney, is professor of Eaglish Literature.
Although the youngest in years, Mr. Whitney pos
sesses mahy excellent qualifications as an explorer,
and came highly indorsed by the college faculty as a
botanist and arborologist.
My daughter Alice, who had just graduated from
the Saint Agnes School at Albany, New York,

kmMimMmMmtmk^^tumhaa

MEMBERS OF. SECOND EXPEDITION,
(303)

304 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
pleaded very earnestly to be allowed to accompany
me. I hesitated for some time, but at length yielded,
on her assurance that she was confident she could
endure the rigors of such a journey. She was
anxious to stand at the head of the Father of
Waters, and, being a very fair artist in water colors,
i felt that her talent might prove of some utility to
the objects of the expedition.
Although it was the original intention to complete
our organization at Minneapolis, I soon ascertained
that from an economic point of view it would be to
our advantage to secure surveyors, guides, and other
assistants in Northern Minnesota; hence only a portion
of those who accompanied me were brought together
before entering upon our journey.
The route decided upon was by way of the Northern
Pacific Railway to Wadena, and thence by a branch
of the Great Northern to Park Rapids; the latter road
having been completed but a few days before our
start from Minneapolis. In my journey across
Northern Minnesota, in 1881, the Leech Lake route
was preferred for the reason that the region between
that point and the Source of the river had not been
previously traversed, and for the further reason that
we could, at that time, reach our destination more
readily by canoe and portage through that section of
Minnesota than by any other. Then, too, the facili
ties now presented by rail and wagon for the trans
portation of necessary supplies, via Park Rapids,
were an important consideration, in view of the large
party I had brought together, and rendered that
route by far the most practicable.
All arrangements having been completed, we
assembled at my residence, on Harmon Place, Monday

PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 305
morning, August seventeenth, where we discussed
briefly the objects of our expedition. I took occa
sion at this time to say that our party was the largest
ever organized for purposes of investigation at the
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and sought to impress
upon the minds of all present that it was my earnest
wish that their examination of that region should be
most thorough and complete. I especially recom
mended that they should determine, by careful
measurement, the relative length and importance of
all streams falling into Itasca and the beautiful lake
lying immediately to the south of it, in order that
they might be prepared on their return to submit a
clear and conclusive verdict as to the True Source of
the Great River.
My re-appearance in Minnesota, with the intention
of making further explorations, led the press of the
country to comment more or less freely upon the
probable outcome of my proposed expedition. These
expressions of public opinion may be deemed worthy
of some consideration, inasmuch as they discuss
quite fully the question at issue, and set forth
very clearly the results of former investigations;
they show, also, something of the character of the
opposition which I have had to contend with during
the past ten years. In view therefore of all that
has been said and written on the subject, for and
against, it will perhaps be thought consistent with
the purpose of this volume to invite attention to a
few quotations from articles which were from time
to time brought under my notice.
The Dispatch, a leading journal of Saint Paul,
has evinced considerable interest in the location of
the Source of the Mississippi, and since the date of
20

306 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
its discovery in 1881 has, in the discussion of my
claim, yielded it a fair, temperate, and disinterested
support. Under date, July twenty-third, 1891, the
Dispatch had the following editorial:
"The arrival in Saint Paul of Captain Glazier has revived
interest in a subject which, three or four years ago, was a
topic of world wide discussion. His claim to have discovered,
in 1881, the True Source ot the Mississippi, while accepted by
many, was denied by some, and doubts were thrown upon
the accuracy of his conclusions. Even yet there are those
who will not admit that Lake Glazier is the Source of the
Father of Waters. Professor Aiton of Minneapolis has
recently expressed himself on this question, disputing Captain
Glazier's claim, but offering no satisfactory solution of the
problem. " From the discovery of Lake Itasca by Schoolcraft in 1833,
down to the year 1881 , very little was attempted in the way of
exploration at the Headwaters of the Mississippi. In the latter
year, Captain Glazier organized and assumed the entire
expense of an expedition which had for Its object a thor. ugh
investigation of the Itascan Basin. The thought had long
been in his mind that if Pike, Cass, and Beltrami had been in
error as to the Source, Schoolcraft also, might have been mis
taken in his conclusions as to Lake Iiasca.
" On the return of his flrst expedition. Captain Glazier
announced that a lake above and beyond Itasca was the
Primal Reservoir; asserted that it had not been so recognized
prior to 1881 ; and claimed that his party was the first to cor
rectly locate its feeders and establish its true relation to the
Mississippi. From the position then taken, Glazier has never
retreated, and to-day, notwithstanding the opposition of a few
unreasoning critics. Lake Glazier is accepted as the True
Source of the Great River by nine-tenths of the geographers,
map and educational publishers of tbis country."
The Albany Knickerbocker ranks among the flrst
journals of the country in the discussion of geo
graphical questions, and gave much attention to the
results of my First Expedition. In one of its articles,
this paper observed:
"Many geographical beliefs have in course of time, and in
the advancement of knowledge, been proven the veriest
myths. It was for some ages contended that there was no
world beyond the Pillars of Hercules. It has taken hundreds
and hundreds of years to arrive at the most simple and primi
tive truths. Captain Glazier contends that he has exploded

PEEPAEATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 307
the myth that Itasca is the source of the Father of Waters.
His claim is supported by a volume ot expert and disinter
ested testimony, and the gentlemen composing his Second
Expedition will doubtless confirm his announcement of 1881,
that the origin of the Mississippi is in the lake to the south of
Itasca, now generally known and accepted by geographers as
Lake Glazier."
Since 1881, the Argus of Red Wing, Minnesota,
has steadfastly maintained, in common with nearly
all the leading papers of the State, that the body of
water which my party located in that year should be
regarded as the Head of the Mississippi. In its issue
of July sixteenth, 1891, the Argus spoke as follows:
" The True Source of the Mississippi River does not appear
to be a settled question, even though the Minnesota Legislature
has decided it, so far as it was able by law to do so. Captain
Glazier claimed the discovery of the real Head of the river in
1881, which was named by his companions Lake Glazier.
Lake Itasca had for many years been considered the source
and had been so placed on the maps, but the lake discovered
by Captain Glazier was beyond Itasca and flowed into it
through a perennial stream. For some reason a few of the
savants of our Historical Society disputed the Glazier claim,
and appealed to tbe Legislature for an enactment to prevent
its recognition. Notwithstanding this opposition, however,
our leading geographers and map publishers, as well as most
of the encyclopedias, recognize the fact that Glazier was the
real discoverer of thc lake now called after him.
"Captain Glazier is about to organize another expedition to
the Headwaters of the Mississippi, which is expected to leave
Saint Paul this month. His chief object in making a second
visit is to obtain sketches and photographs of scenery at tho
source of the river, and to give some attention to thc
natural history of the surrounding country, as well as to
secure additional information concerning the feeders of Lake
Glazier. An artist, photographer, surveyor, and several gen
tlemen of scientiflc attainments will be members of the expe
dition. These gentlemen, it is presumed, will be fully quali
fled to pass flnal judgment upon the claim of Captain
Glazier to have definitely located, in 1881, the True Source of
the Mississippi."
The Trade Journal of Dubuque, Iowa, edited by
Dr. A. Munsell of that city, has been for several
years an ardent participant in all discussions concern-

308 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
ing the Head of the Great River. In its July issue
of 1891 the Journal, in referring to the subject, said:
" Since the discoveiy and announcement of Lake Glazier as
the Source of the Mississippi, it has been very generally recog
nized by the geographical world and by writers in the later
encyclopedias. There are those, however, who have denied
the newly asserted fact, and have even taken some pains to
contradict and argue against the propriety of according it
recognition. It is often difficult to sympathize with a new
truth whicii dispels the illusion of a lifetime, and the views,
customs, and complacency ingrained by education and habit.
So, when called upon to surrender the honor that has for
more than a half century clung to the Itasca of Schoolcraft,
and bid good-by to the associations that have been pleasantly
connected with the charming Indian word, it is perhaps little
wonder that prejudice and conservatism are reluctant. But
truth and duty have no heed save for the verities of the actual,
and the modern day is a time when the white light of science
and fact is allowed to fall safely and freely on that which is in
the realm of reality."
Foremost among the leading newspapers of New
England, the Boston Herald exhibited its usual
enterprise in sending a special correspondent to join
us in Minnesota. Commenting on my proposed visit
to the Headwaters, the Herald said:
* * * "Captain Glazier believed that Schoolcraft was at fault
in locating the source of the Mississippi in Lake Itasca, and
during the summer of 1881 began a thorough personal investi
gation of the subject. Standing on the shore of the beautiful
heart-shaped lake to the south of Itasca — the Pokegamia of the
Chippewas — ^he announced to the geographical world the fact
thai the True Head of the Pather of Waters was there to be
found. A geographical error had existed for nearly half a
century and it was hard to change the order of things. Would-
be explorers, and geographers unheard of before, sprang up in
a night and sought in some way to immortalize their names in
connection therewith. Some denied the truth of Captain
Glazier's statements; but when it was established that the
position he had taken was impregnable, they objected to
having his name applied to the lake. It was in opposition to
the wishes of Glazier that his name was given, but his white
and Indian companions persisted and it was finally adopted.
So firm is Captain Glazier in the conviction that his position is
unassailable that he will lead the largest party of gentlemen
to the Headwaters of the Mississippi that has ever visited that
region."

PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 309
The Times of Philadelphia has devoted much
space and attention to the Mississippi and its
Source, and while its columns have been open to
both sides of the controversy, its editorial utterances
have been clearly in support of the lake beyond
Itasca as the Primal Reservoir. In its issue of July
twelfth, 1891, the Times thus referred to the matter:
"In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier organized, equipped, and
led a party tlirough Northern Minnesota for the purpose of
determining, if possible, the exact location of the Source of
the Mississippi. Under the guidance of a Chippewa Indian,
named Chenowagesic, he located, on the twenty-second of
July of that year, a beautiful body of water to the south of
Lalie Itasca, having an average depth of forty-five feet, a cir
cumference of between five and six miles, and an area of 255
acres. "This lake was known to the Indians as Pokegama, meaning
' the place where the waters gather.' It has for its feeders
three small creeks which have their origin in springs at the
foot of sand hills from two to three miles distant. After con
sultation, the members of the expedition unanimously voted
that this body of water be named Lake Glazier, after the man
who had organized the expedition and led them, at his own
expense, to its shores. Since that time a few critics have seen
fit to question, doubt, and finally declare that the Fountain-
head of the river is in Lake Itasca; that there was no such
lake as Captain Glazitr described; or if there was, it was of
little consequence. And again, if such a sheet of water did
exisi, he wasnot the first white man to see it. Just as if
Schoolcraft was the flrst white man who saw Lake Itasca. It
should not be a question of 'who tirst saw it,' but 'who flrst
discovered its relation to the Mississippi.'
"In view of the various doubts that have been raised, and for
the purpose of satisfying scientific, educational, and all other
parties who take any interest in the correction of error and
the advancement of truth, Captain Glazier is now fitting out
a Second Expedition. This party will be composed of natu
ralists, surveyors, artists, photographers, correspondents of
the press, and others who wish to look upon the Source of our
Great Central River. The country will be carefully examined,
prominent views and scenes photographed, and levels and
measurements taken. The botanist and geologist will report
on the flora and formation of that region. It is confldently
expected that the Source of the Mississippi will be established
wiihout further cavil or dispute, and that Captain Glazier
will give a faithful description and photographic view of that
hitherto practically unknown sectioa of Minaesota which

310 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
enjoys the distinotion of embracing the Headwaters of the
greatest river of North America."
The press of Minnesota, with but two or three
unimportant exceptions, favored a further explora
tion, and said much to encourage my companions in
the prosecution of their self-imposed task. The
Globe of Saint Paul took an active interest in every
thing pertaining to the controversy. The subjoined
article appeared in its columns under date of August
sixteenth, 1891:
" On to-morrow, August seventeenth, Captain Glazier will
start from Minneapolis with his Second Expedition to the
Source of the Mississippi. The explorer goes with the deter
mination of substantiating his claim of 1881, that he discov
ered, in a body of water beyond Itasca — since known as Lake
Glazier — the True Source of the Father of Waters. Among
those who will accompany him in his later visit is Rev. J. C.
Crane of Worcester, Massachusetts, who is now in Saint Paul.
Speaking of the expeilition, he said:
'"The attention of a large portion of the people of this
country is at present directed to a wild and unsettled region
of Minnesota. The particular locality referred to is that lying
about the Source of what is, in many respects, the greatest
river in the woi'ld. The complete history of this wonderful
waterway, if written, would fill volumes. The chief reason
for the interest now taken, arises from investigations made at
the Headwaters of the river in 1881. In July of that year.
Captain Willard Glazier led a party by a new and untried
route to a lake which he claimed as the "Ultimate Source of the
Mississippi. " ' From 1832 to 1881, the statements of Schoolcraft with
regard to the Fountain-head of the miahty stream were
unquestioned. The announcement by Glazier that there was
a beautiful lake above and beyond Itasca was a great surprise
to the geographical world, and as one somewhat versed in the
geography and history of the country, I became interested in
his claim to have definitely located the Origin of the Great
River. I had been an early pioneer in Minnesota— had
journeyed days and nights on the pure waters of the Upper
Mississippi. As a hunter I had sailed its tributaries and
camped along their shores. What more natural than that I,
although no longer a resident of the State, should take an
interest in the Source of her ideal river ? I began anew the study
of the Mississippi and its place of beginning. I investigated
the claim of Captain Glazier and read its numerous indorse-

PEEPAEATION FOE SECOND EXPEDITION. 311
ments. I digested also the pamphlet of General Baker, and
heard and read of the progress of Mr. Brower in that locality,
and in fact made a thorough study of all the reports on the
question of the True Source since Glazier announced his dis
covery in 1881. One thing became very evident to my mind,
and that was that the latter gentleman had never receded in
any measure from the position flrst taken, which was thai the
Fountain-head was in a lake to the soulh of It.isca, known to
the Indians as Pokegama. After a long and careful .'tudy of
the ques ion, and hearing all the pros and cons, I could UL't
help the belief that the claim put forth by Captain Glazier
was based upon cureful investigation and honest conviction.
I had never seen the lake of Schoolcraft, neither had I looked
upon the Pokegama of the Chippewas, but I had seen the flow
ing stream as it fell in beauty over the Falls of Saint Anthony,
and had noted its onward rush to the Gulf, three thousand
miles away. I had observed with what tenacity Glazier clung
to his announcement of 1881. The thought came to n'e, this
man is honest in his premise.^, and the more I studied the sub
ject, the more I became satisfied that Lake Glazier toswered
all the requirements of geographers. Upon investigation, I
found many who agreed with me in this belief. The written
testimony of eminent educators, map publishers, and com
pilers of encyclopedias was examined with care.
' " ' Early in the present year, rumors of another expedition
to be made by Captain Glazier reached my ear. Later an
opportunity was presented me to become a member of the
party of gentlemen who are to leave Minneapolis to-mor
row to ascertain for themselves on what ground Willard
Glazier bases his claim to have definitely located, in 1881,
the True Sv-urce of the Mississippi River. So strong is the
captain in his convictions and statements then made, that he
has called about him the largest and most influential body of
men that has ever been brought together for this purpose.
As an humble member of that expedition, I go with the honest
purpose of seeing for myself the foundation upon which I
have built my belief. As a historian of some repute in the
' Old Bay State,' it would ill become me to give my sanction to
a claim which upon investigation should fail to uphold opin
ions previously expressed.'"
Henry R. Cobb, editor of the Hubbard County
Enterprise of Park Rapids, Minnesota, enjoys the
distinction of having among his subscribers several
pioneers whose claim-cabins are within a few miles
of the Source of the Mississippi. In referring to my
First and Second expeditions, Mr. Cobb said in his
paper:

313 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
" On the twenty-second day of July, 1881— ten years ago this
summer — Captain Glazier passed through Lake Itasca into a
lake beyond, known to tbe Indians as Po-keg-a-ma. In this
body of water he believed he had found the True Source of the
Mississippi, which was christened Lake Glazier by his com
panions. Despite the criticisms of subsequent expeditions
Captain Glazier still holds to his convictions, and the present
party go for the purpose of adding their evidence on this much
discussed question. Whatever their decision as to the Cap
tain's claim, the latter may be credited with having gathered
together, from all parts of the Union, a body of men whose
testimony will be of weight. "
From the time that Lake Itasca was flrst called in
question, the religious press of Minnesota manifested
much interest in the controversy. Of these publica
tions, the Northwestern Presbyterian of Minneapolis,
gave considerable attention to the subject. Referring
to it at some length, this journal said in clear and
unmistakable terms:
' 'All who live in the valley of America's greatest river will be
especially interested in knowing something of its Source, its
course, and the cities that line its banks. Since De Soto first
discovered the Father cf Waters in 1541, many eminent
explorers have been associated with its history. Marquette,
Joliet, La Salle, Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix, Carver,
Pike, Cass, and Beltrami preceded Schoolcraft. The last
named discovered a lake which he supposed to be the Source,
but the Indians and missionaries said there was a lake beyond.
A learned few believed them. It remained for some explorer
to make further investigation and publish the truth more
widely to the world. This was done by Captain Glazier in
1881, who visited the lake, explored its shores, and found it
to be wider and deeper than Itasca."
The following quotation from an article which
appeared in the Geographical News, is from the pen
of its publisher, George F. Cram, a leading geo
graphical authority of Chicago, who, I should con
clude from his interesting and exhaustive treatment
of the subject, must have made a thorough study of
everything relating to the question of the Origin of
the Great River;
"In 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft traced the upper courses

PEEPAEATION FOE SECOND EXPEDITION. 313
of the Mississippi and believed he had found its Source in
Lake Itasca, and for nearlv fifty years it was so shown on our
maps and in our geographies, and so taught in our schools.
In 1881, however, Willard Glazier made further explorations,
and discovered that Itasca was connected with another lake by
a permanently fiowing stream which enters the southeast
side of the southwest arm of the former. Captain Glazier's
companions named this body, of water Lake Glazier, and
announced it as the Primal Reservoir of the river. Unwilling
to abandon tbe theories of the earlier explorers, certain parties
strongly antagonized tbe Glazier claim, and exerted so great
an influence with the Hiatorical Society of Minnesota that
that body rejected his discovery altogether r nd refused to
admit the source to be beyond Itasca. A loug newspaper war
followed, sufliciently acrimoaiohs on both sides. Geographers
are now divided on the question, so that scholars and students
who use the geographies of one publisher will be taught that
the Source of the Mississippi is Lake Itasca, while those who
use the publications of another will learn that it is Lake
Glazier. Just who is beneflted by this condition of things it
is somewhat difficult to ascertain.
" The actual facts in the case are these: That all the investi
gations made since the Glazier discovery was flrst disputed,
tend to show very conclusively that the True Source of the
river is in the lake immediately to the south of Itasca, known
to the Indians as Po-keg-a-ma; that Captain Glazier's party
christened this sheet of water Lake Glazier; that Glazier was
the first who discovered and proclaimed the Source to be in
that lake. This being the case, it seems but just that the honor
of the discovery should no longer be withheld from him. At
all events, our school geographies should teach the truth as to
where the Source really is."
Those who have glanced over the preceding edi
torial comments will probably have found some evi
dence of the interest taken by the general public in
the question that brought me again to Minnesota.
They may also have noted the trend of opinion; and
if they are candid and in search of truth, I feel con
fident they will reach the conclusion that the press
at least, throughout the country, is not only not
opposed to, but favorable and strongly corroborative
of my views.

(314)

OHAPTER VII.
MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS.
. EAVING Minneapolis at an early hour on
the morning of August seventeenth,
we reached Saint Cloud at ten o'clock.
Here we had dinner, and spent a few
hours in strolls through the leading
streets of the city. Resuming our
journey, we went on to Brainerd in
the evening, where we remained for two days. It
was at this point that the equipment of my First
Expedition was completed.
Brainerd, sometimes familiarly styled the " City of
Pines," is situated in a bend of the Mississippi, on
the border of an extensive pine forest, at the point
where the Northern Pacific Railway makes its cross
ing. Although but twenty-eight miles south of
Aitkin, by railway, it is ninety-five miles below that
city, by the river. The town was originally built
among the pines, and when I saw it in 1881, it was
the most picturesque village I had ever looked upon.
The streets had been cut directly through the virgin
forest, and only such trees removed as were absolutely
necessary to make room for business houses and resi
dences. Brainerd is the third town from the Source
of the Mississippi, and, after Saint Paul and Minne
apolis, one of the most advanced above the Falls of
Saint Anthony. Viewed from the river, which winds
around its front, a picture of rare beauty is pre-
(315)

From Photograph hy F J. Tiost

LOG-BOOM ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI

MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS. ^lH
sented to the tourist who delights in Upper Missis
sippi scenery. Without a history, this town leaped
into existence with a considerable population, mostly
of New England origin, and at one time seemed des
tined to become a city of respectable proportions. Its
rapid growth for several years was probably due to its
large and increasing lumber interest, and the location
at that point of the shops of the Northern Pacific
Railway, which gave it prominence and prospective
importance as a center of industry. The removal of
the shops, a short time since, to Staples seriously inter
rupted the development of Brainerd and greatly bene
fited the former place; hence, although the Brain
erd of to-day possesses a greater population than the
Brainerd of 1881, it gives less promise for the future.
One of the attractive features of this little city,
and a favorite resort during the summer months,
is Pine Park, situated within the city limits. This
park is thickly studded with tall gray and Norway
pines from sixty to a hundred feet in height, which
give the traveler an excellent idea of the appearance
of this region before the axe of the settler was heard
in the unbroken wilderness.
Among the objects of interest visited here were the
Sanitarium and the rooms of the Young Men's
Christian Association; the former of which was built
by, and is entirely in the hands of, the Northern
Pacific Railway- — a wise and, indeed, generous pro
vision for the sick and disabled employes of the road.
The ample quarters of the Y. M. C. A. are quite up
to the modern idea, having a library, gymnasium, and
well-appointed reading-rooms.
A pleasant incident of our sojourn at this frontier
town was a call from Miss Lotta Grandelmeyer, a

(318>

MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK EAPIDS. 319
great-granddaughter of William Morrison, the pio
neer fur trader, who saw Lake Itasca in 1804, the
year previous to the visit of Lieutenant Pike to Cass
Lake. Had the latter met Morrison then, it is
hardly probable that the explorer of 1805 would
have laid down the Source of the Mississippi in Turtle
Lake. Since that time, the descendants of William
Morrison and his brother Allan have been residents
of Minnesota, and the high esteem in which the fam
ily is held was shown many years ago, in bestowing
the name of Morrison upon one of the largest and
most-flourishing counties in the State.
Miss Grandelmeyer is a young lady of intelligence
and refinement, proud of her ancestors, and much
interested in everything relating to the geography
and history of Minnesota. The information which
she furnished us, concerning the Morrisons and other
early settlers of the northern portions of the State,
was of especial value to myself and companions.
Later in the day. Dr. F. A. Seal, Government phy
sician at the Leech Lake Indian Agency, paid his
respects, and talked with us in regard to Indian affairs
in that region. He has been four years among the
Chippewas, and his stories of their peculiar manners
and customs were eagerly listened to by those of our
party who had never before been so near the domin
ions of their red brothers.
From Dr. Seal I learned the particulars of the
death and burial of Chenowagesic, the guide of my
First Expedition, to whom I made frequent reference
in " Down the Great River," and other publications
relating to the source of the Mississippi. I was
already aware of his death, which occurred at Leech
Lake in March, 1891, but knew nothing of its cause,.
or of his funeral and place of burial.

320 DISCoyERT OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
Dr. Seal explained that a severe cold led to pneu
monia, and that he lived but a few days after his
condition was considered critical. The ceremony
attending his funeral was strictly in accordance with
his wishes, and in conformity with usual Chippewa
practices on such occasions. Since retiring from my
service in 1881, he had been elevated to the chieftain
ship of a tribe, and later had been appointed captain
of Indian police by the Government agent at Leech
Lake. Having expressed a desire, during his illness,
to stand once more at the head of his company, his
family and friends insisted that his request should be
respected. Their cabin was on the shore of the lake,
about flve miles from the Agency, and when the Gov
ernment wagon arrived for his remains, the entife
Indian police force of the Leech Lake Reservation
was drawn up in line, and the body of Chenowagesic,
clothed in the uniform of his oflB.ce, was placed,
standing, on the right of the line, where it was held
in position by a relative for some moments; then,
placing the corpse in a coffin, it was preceded by
the police, and followed by his sorrowing family
and friends to the Chippewa village near the Agency,
where his remains were given a Christian burial.
While at Brainerd, I had the pleasure of again
meeting Judge Holland, Dr. Rosser, Captain Seelye,
George S. Canfield, and several others with whom I
became acquainted during my descent of the Missis
sippi. These gentlemen seemed greatly interested
in the objects of our expedition, and furnished us
much valuable information concerning the region
through which we intended to pass on our way to
Park Rapids. Captain Seelye and Mr. Canfield, par
ticularly, were untiring in their efforts to place at my

21

(321)

323 DISCOVERT OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
disposal their large experience in Northern Minne
sota. The former is widely known as a veteran
explorer for pine, and had, since my explorations of
1881, visited the Headwaters of the Mississippi in
pursuit of his calling.
We moved from Brainerd to Wadena on the after
noon of August nineteenth, where we found quarters
for the night at the Merchants' Hotel and Wadena
House. On the following morning, the entire party
was up at daylight, and, after an early breakfast, spent
an hour in conversation with citizens, and in rambles
through the place. Mr. T rost photographed a railway
station, park, and two or three street scenes.
The birth of Wadena dates from the advent of the
Northern Pacific Railroad, since which its growth has
been consistent with the development of the surround
ing country. In 1880, the population was but three
hundred and seven; in 1890, it was between three
and four thousand. This growing and prosperous
little town is the capital of Wadena County; is forty-
seven miles northwest of Brainerd, and was, until the
completion of the branch road to Park Rapids, the
nearest railway station to the Source of the Mississippi.
Situated in the midst of one of the most productive
wheat-growing sections of Minnesota, and with every
facility for the receipt and shipment of this staple,
the prediction of a prosperous future need hardly be
questioned. Leaving Wadena at nine o'clock, we proceeded on
our journey to Park Rapids by way of the Wadena
and Park Rapids branch of the Great Northern Rail
way. A halt of nearly an hour was made at a half
way house known as Menahga, where we had a very
satisfactory dinner; the conductor favoring the land-

From Photograph Dy I'. J. Trost.

MAIN STREET, WADENA, MINNESOTA.

324 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
lord, and ourselves at the same time, by holding
his train until we could dine in detachments, the
table and service not being equal to so large a party.
After dinner the conductor still further delayed his
train in order to give Mr. Trost an opportunity to
photograph the Menahga House and its guests.
Our brief stop at this pioneer establishment was, it
may perhaps be considered, an event in its history,
and the worthy host seemed anxious to make the most
of it. We may also explain that the new railway
from Wadena to Park Rapids was, at this date, in an
unfinished condition; there were no stations north of
Wadena, except at its terminus at Park Rapids. The
obliging conductor, therefore, consented to accommo
date the passengers, of whom our party formed the
majority, so far as he could do so consistently.
Continuing our journey from Menahga, we reached
Park Rapids at three o'clock. Here we were most
cordially received by a delegation of citizens, and
escorted to the Central House by Henry R. Cobb,
postmaster, and editor of the Hubbard County
Enterprise; and E. M. Horton, clerk of the County
Court, who had anticipated our arrival.
Park Rapids is a typical frontier village, the county
seat of Hubbard County, and, as previously noted,
the nearest inhabited point to the Source of the Mis
sissippi. It is situated on Fish-hook River, near a
beautiful lake of the same name. The region sur
rounding the place is familiarly known as the Shell
Prairies, and the soil is said to be favorable to the
growth of wheat, corn, oats, and other cereals. The
first house is stated to have been erected in 1883, the
year after my first journey across Northern Minne
sota.

(385)

CHAPTER VIII.
THROUGH THE WILDEKNESS.

^JHREE days were spent at Park
Rapids in organization and equip
ment. Here we were opportunely
reinforced by several gentlemen
who proved a very valuable addi
tion to the party, and having
previously introduced to my readers
those members of the expedition
who joined us in Minneapolis, I now give the names
of the Park Rapids contingent, beginning with Henry
R. Cobb, to whom allusion has already been made.
Mr. Cobb is a native of Maine, and although still
a young man, was a pioneer in Northern Minnesota
and one of the first settlers at Park Rapids. Through
his paper, the Hubbard County Enterprise, he has
done much to invite attention to, and encourage the
development of, this section of the State.
Hon. C. D. Cutting of Howard County, Iowa,
was the guest of Mr. Cobb at the time of our arrival,
and curtailed his visit in order to make one of our
number. He began life in the "Pine Tree State,"
but, like thousands of others, left New England in
boyhood to seek his fortune in the Great West. An
ample competency, resulting from earnest toil beyond
the Mississippi, and his election to the Legislature of
his adopted State, are sufficient proofs of industry
and good citizenship. Senator Cntting was accompa-
(326)

C32T)

328 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECB.
nied by his son Frank, a young man of eighteen
years. E. M. Horton of Park Rapids, at present clerk of
the Hubbard County Court, is a surveyor and civil
engineer by profession, and was recently in the
employ of the Northern Pacific Railway. Mr. Hor
ton was introduced by Postmaster Cobb, and highly
indorsed as a surveyor by many of his fellow-towns
men. Oliver S. Keay, formerly of Maine, but now a resi
dent of Minnesota, was accepted on the recommenda
tion of Mr. Horton and other citizens of Park Rapids
for the position of guide and assistant surveyor. He
has had large experience as an explorer of pine
lands in the northern sections of the State, and was
the only member of our party besides myself who
had seen the Source of the Mississippi.
Daniel Adams and his son Grant were employed as
teamsters, and, although pursuing an humble calling,
are highly respected as good citizens and neighbors in
Park Rapids. Louis Delezene was engaged as cook
and general assistant.
In the matter of equipment for our explorations,
we were provided with canoes, tents, blankets, rations,
guns, ammunition, fishing tackle, surveyor's compass
and chain, barometer, thermometers, pocket com
passes, and a portable photographic apparatus.
Having ascertained that it was now possible to
journey on wheels from Park Rapids to within a few
miles of the Source of the Mississippi, three wagons
were employed to carry our canoes, camp equipage,
and rations to the southeastern arm of Lake Itasca;
these wagons were drawn by horses, with the excep
tion of one mule, bearing the euphonious title or

THROUGH THB WILDERNESS. 329
nickname of "Jerry." This long-eared companion
of one of the horses possessed all the peculiarities of
his kind, and, as will be seen farther on, frequently
converted serious into amusing and ludicrous situa
tions. Although we had learned from pioneers that wagon
conveyance at best would be difficult, and at times
even hazardous, it was a relief to know that for the
greater part of the trip, at least, teams could be used
for the transportation of our luggage.
Our organization and equipment completed, we
started from Park Rapids at eight o'clock on Satur
day morning, August twenty-second, and soon
plunged into the interminable primitive forest
which lies between this frontier town and the Head
waters of the Mississippi. The road, which is but
little more than a trail, winds among the tall pines,
over huge boulders, across marshes, and up and down
sand-hills, in descending which it was necessary to
chain the wagon-wheels, and in their ascent the com
bined strength of horses and men was required.
For the first six miles our route led us across a
shell prairie to the west of Park Rapids, and then
over rather indifferent sand roads, through a partly
cultivated country, and past an occasional log cabin.
As we moved forward, however, all traces of cultiva
tion gradually disappeared, and by noon, after having
advanced but ten miles, nothing remained to suggest
the existence of humanity aside from our own party
and the rugged and slightly travel-worn trail we were
following. We were confronted on all sides by the
apparently endless virgin forest, in which gray, Nor
way, and jack-pines largely predominated. From
^\e hill-tops many of the pines rear their evergreen

C330)

THEOUGH THB WILDERNESS. 331
crests to the enormous height of over a hundred feet,
while in the marshes and lowlands the tamarack and
underbrush are seen on every hand.
We succeeded in reaching at noon a stream known
to frontiersmen of that locality as " Dinner Creek."
Here, where we found excellent water, we had our
flrst meal in the open air.
The fording of " Dinner Creek " was the first of
many novel and exciting experiences in our march
through the wilderness, and gave us a foretaste of what
we might reasonably anticipate at intervals during
the remainder of the journey, for it may be explained
at once that the region about the Head of the Missis
sippi is a series of diluvial sand-ridges and numberless
lakes, ponds, streams, marshes, and in brief every
thing conceivable that could impede and obstruct
locomotion. When we had reached a slight elevation overlook
ing the creek, it was evident that the most feasible
way of crossing the stream would be to ford it iu the
wagons, as the depth of water was sufficient to make
fording on foot impracticable without the annoyance
of a severe and unnecessary wetting; Ave therefore
mounted the wagons promptly and rode forward.
On approaching the stream, the mule divided with
his mate the honor of leading our column, and no
sooner had the ford begun than "Jerry," tempted by
the clear sparkling water, and delighting in its cooling
effects upon his overheated legs, mule-like, wanted to
drink; and halt he Avould, doubtless oblivious of the
difficulty he was sure to experience in again starting.
After drinking all he could hold conveniently, he
raised his head and put up his ears in a knowing man
ner as if in contemplation of the steep ascent beyond.

332 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
When "Jerry" received from his driver the word
"go," he attempted to climb over his' companion,
but failing in this he next tried to push himself bodily
through his collar, and, although unable to accomplish
Avhat he undertook, succeeded in landing horse,
wagon, and freight on the opposite shore, where with
one wheel in the road, and another against an embank
ment, he, with characteristic mischief, made a sudden
and unexpected disposition of the passengers.
As "Dinner Creek" was the first stream encount
ered, and the first barrier to uninterrupted travel, a
brief sketch of it may prove of some interest to those
tourists who incline to follow our footsteps to the Mecca
of the Upper Mississippi. Rising to the southward
of the basin Avhich incloses Itasca and Glazier lakes,
it fiows in a southeasterly direction through Becker
and Hubbard counties, and ultimately falls into the
Crow Wing River, of which it is an important tribu
tary. Its banks, for some distance above and below
the point where we effected a crossing, are high and
well-defined, with an average width of about sixty,
and a depth of from three to four feet, at the time Ave
saw it on the twenty-second of August.
I may add that it was the sentiment of many of
our party, that this water-course was of sufficient
importance to receive a more dignified title than
"Dinner Creek"; and I therefore suggest that, if
entirely in accord with the views of the residents of
that section of Minnesota, it be named Morrison River
in honor of Allan and William Morrison, who were
among the first white men to penetrate the Avilds, and
leave their foot-prints on the hills and in the valleys
of the "North Star State."
Dinner over, and " Jerry" having been coaxed into

THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 333
the " notion," Ave again moved forward. Obstacles to
progress were found to be more numerous and diffi
cult as Ave advanced; the trail being hardly discern
ible at many points, while the hills were steeper and
more frequent. The wagons were pulled and pushed
up one hill after another; then, when they were at the
summit, some of our number moved in front of the
teams with long sticks, as they descended, beating
the animals in their faces, in order to assist the driv
ers in forcing them to hold back; other members of
the party took position behind and on the sides of the
wagons, exerting all the muscle they could command,
in their efforts to keep canoes and luggage from being
precipitated into the valley below.
Thoroughly exhausted by the fatigues of the day,
Ave halted at six o'clock on the crest of a stony-capped
ridge, about twenty miles northwest of Park Rapids.
Here we pitched tents, and built a camp-fire, naming
the encampment "Munsell," after a senior member
of the expedition. Camp Munsell overlooked an
apparently fine body of water, but the discovery Avas
soon made that its appearance was misleading, and
Avhat had tempted us to go into camp early in the
evening proved to be only a dead lake, the water of
whicli Avas unfit for use by either man or beast.
The water near the margin of this lake was stag
nant, and filled with dead and decaying vegetable
matter. The horses were led down to the shore, but
seemed disgusted, and would not drink. "Jerry"
alone appeared satisfied, and in consideration of his
approval of what seemed obnoxious to all others, we
at once named it Mule Lake.
Being unable to use, in a raw state, the water refused
by the horses, we boiled it, and made a kettle of

334 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
rather insipid coffee, which in a measure appeased
thirst, and afforded us slight refreshment.
A careful exploration of the region adjacent to
Camp Munsell made it clear that living water could
not be found in that immediate vicinity; and had we
not already made considerable preparation for the
night, we should have moved forward in the hope of
finding a more desirable location.
All were astir at sunrise on the following morning,
and had breakfast soon after. It being Sunday, I
had originally intended to remain in camp the entire
day, and resume march on the morning of the twenty-
fourth; but owing to the want of good water, all
voted to strike tents, and move on without delay.
The event of this day's tramp was the shooting of
a large black bear, early in the forenoon, by Whitney
and Delezene, who, at the time of catching their first
glimpse of bruin, were about a hundred yards in
advance of the column. Being armed with rifles,
both flred at the same instant, but their shots were
not immediately fatal, and the bear made good his
escape, leaving a trail of blood behind to indicate his
line of retreat. Several members of the party joined
Whitney and Delezene in pursuit of the wounded
animal; but wishing to establish our evening encamp
ment on Schoolcraft Island, there was no time to lose,
and I therefore recalled the hunters and pushed on
toward Lake Itasca.
On returning from the hunt, we were not a little
amused by an incident doubtless quite in keeping
with the reportorial profession. Arriving upon the
ground from which the shots had been flred but a few
moments before, the correspondent of the Boston
Herald seated himself on a log, deliberately pulled

(336)

336 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
his note-book and pencil from a side-pocket, and pro
ceeded to "interview" his companions; inquired the
time bruin was flrst seen, his size and appearance,
the precise moment that fire was opened on him, and
the direction he had taken after being wounded;
then, putting his note-book back in his pocket, he
arose with becoming dignity, and wiping the perspi
ration from his brow, thrcAV his rifle over his shoul
der, and, apparently " ready for action," said, " Gen
tlemen, my article for the Herald is ready; now bring
on your bear! " It occurred to us that if bears could
select their hunters, there would be a very large
premium on reporters and correspondents of leading
dailies, when fully provided with note-books, sketch
books, and all other paraphernalia known to knights
of the quill; for, while the representative of the news
paper was perfecting his notes, bruin could readily
betake himself to safer and more peaceful quarters
beyond the reach of the enemy.
Our course was still northwesterly, and the interest
in the region traversed increased as we approached
the Height of Land, usually described as the water
shed, and which separates the great river systems of
North America.
The prevailing growth observed at this stage of our
journey was thick bramble, pine, spruce, white cedar,
and tamarack. The hills were found to be higher
and more rugged as we advanced, while we experi
enced much difficulty in penetrating the dense under
growth of the valleys. The trail often plunged into
marshy and matted thickets, which required all the
strength we could muster to press through; then rose
to an elevation covered with cedar or jack-pines, and
anon dropped into a swamp, strewn with fallen trees

THEOUGH THB WILDEENESS. 337
covered with moss, from which it again led to the
summit of a sand-hill, steeper and higher than the one
that preceded it; and so on, ad infinitum, until the goal
of the expedition was reached.
Notwithstanding some of the disagreeable features
enumerated, that portion of Minnesota lying at, and
in the immediate vicinity of, the Headwaters is, and
will always be, a region of much interest to the stu
dent and tourist who has the hardihood to climb the
hills and wade through the marshes that conceal the
mysterious Fount of the Great River.
It may be further observed that this particular sec
tion of Minnesota is likely to remain in a wild state
for many years to come, as the soil is hardly worth
tilling and the timber at present inaccessible. The
surface is cut up by glacial ridges which leave many
depressions, of from afew hundred feet to many miles
in extent, mostly without outlet. The basins thus
formed by these elevations and depressions hold the
myriad lakes for which this region is celebrated.
When within a short distance of Lake Itasca, the
guide drew my attention to the claim cabin of an
enterprising pioneer, who had, a year or two previous,
built a log house, and attempted to hold the pine
land, which is allowed in case certain requirements
of the State are complied with. Disappointed in his
estimate of soon having neighbors, and unwilling to
remain longer in his isolated position, the settler
abandoned his claim and returned to the haunts of
civilization, heartily glad to be rid of his enterprise
in the wilderness.
Continuing our journey, the trail led us along the
shore of a small lake having a length of about a half
mile and a width of between two and three hundred
22

338 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECB.
yards. It is nearly a mile to the south of the south
east arm of Lake Itasca, into which it falls through a
swift brook with a sandy and pebbly bed. This
pretty little lake was seen during my former visit and
christened Gamble, after W. H. Gamble, a leading
geographer of Philadelphia. The stream connecting
it with Itasca was named Bear Creek, from the cir
cumstance of our adventure referred to in a previous
paragraph. A little farther on, we came to the last of the series
of ridges which we had been successively climbing,
since we struck tents in the morning. From the
summit of this elevation we had a very good view of
Lake Itasca, which was seen from the crest of the
pine-covered bluff overlooking the southeastern arm
of the lake. Here we bivouacked, and drank our cof
fee on the very spot from which I had my flrst glimpse
of Itasca in 1881. I may further observe that School
craft, also, first looked upon this lake from the same
point in 1832, and Nicollet in 1836.
We had now reached the terminus of our convey
ance on wheels, and, having lunched, the wagons
were unloaded, and the canoes and baggage carried
down to the lake. It being the intention to camp for
the night on Schoolcraft Island, we embarked with
out delay, and an hour later were pitching our tents
on the northeast side of the island, on the ground
selected by my faithful guide, Chenowagesic, for the
encampment of my First Expedition ten years before.

CHAPTER IX.

HEADWATEES OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
i^FTER an early breakfast at Camp Shure
on the morning of the tAventy-fourth,
tents were struck, and an hour later
we were in our canoes, paddling up the
southwestern arm of Lake Itasca, it
being the intention to establish a per
manent camp and base of operations on
the south side of the elevation of land
which separates that arm of Itasca from
the beautiful sheet of water, now generally recognized
as the True Source of the Mississippi.
As we approached the southern end of the lake,
my companions seemed more than usually interested,
and, resting on our paddles, we paused a few moments
to scan its shores. To me the scene was quite famil
iar, but to them it was new and strange and full of
material for future investigation; for it was this por
tion of Itasca, together with the flne'lake beyond,
and their respective feeders, which had occupied the
attention of geographers for more than ten years.
Entering on our right is a trickling rivulet having
no well-deflned course, and of little consequence.
Directly in front is a small stream usually denomi
nated Nicollet Creek — the outlet of ponds situated in
marshes to the southward. This creek and the insig
niflcant ponds in which it originates were seen and
entered by Nicollet in 1836, Julius Chambers in 1872,

MAP OF THE HEADWATERS.

HEADWATEES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 341
and again, by my party, in 1881; and have since been
visited, christened, and re-christened so many times,
by two or three enterprising parties from Saint Paul,
that it is now extremely doubtful if the people of
Minnesota, or elsewhere, have any definite idea of
their claim to serious consideration.
It is perhaps sufficient to add, that a certain repre
sentative of the Minnesota Historical Society, who
has wasted much effort in his attempt to disprove my
position, has moved up the valley of this stream, and,
utterly ignoring the time-honored practice of geog
raphers, has presumed to name, successively, bogs and
ponds as important feeders of the Mississippi, until
he has reached the limit of running water; then,
scaling sand-hills, has imagined subterranean connec
tion with isolated dead lakes which he has exalted to
the dignity of Fountain-head of the Great River.
His ridiculous pretensions having finally been disposed
of in this quarter, he springs a coup-de-main upon
his unsuspecting followers, and announces to his
"select class of scientists" at Saint Paul, that "all
our rivers have their sources in the clouds." It hav
ing been the purpose of my party to confine its obser
vations to terra-firma, we surrendered the department
of the "clouds" to the individual above referred to,
and decided to ascend Nicollet Creek with compass
and chain as soon as practicable.
Resuming our observations, I may explain that we
are still in our canoes, looking southward. On our
right the west shore of Itasca is fringed with pine,
while in our front its southern end and the eastern
shore on our left are covered with tamarack, except
ing an open space at the summit of a hill near the
southern extremity of the lake. The Hauteur de

343 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
Terre range of hills, which constitutes the Height of
Land, may be clearly seen in the distance, and
between these hills and the knoll there is a peculiar
light which indicates to the practiced eye of the
woodsman that there is a large body of water beyond.
No portion of Itasca presents so many features of
striking interest as this, and were it not that impera
tive duties urged us forward to other flelds of equal
and even greater interest, we would gladly have
lingered longer where there was so much to excite
our admiration.
Passing from the scene which had held our atten
tion for nearly half an hour, I carefully scanned the
eastern shore for the mouth of the Infant Mississippi,
the view being obstructed now, as in 1881, by a rank
growth of weeds, rushes, and wild rice. Fixing my
eyes upon a small pine, which marks the precise
point of entrance, we turned fhe canoes and pushed
them through the dense vegetation out into the clear
waters of the inlet. I was now in my old tracks,
ascending the stream which leads to the lake that has
been for more than a decade the central figure in geo
graphical discussion in this country.
We continued to move up the stream in our canoes
until stopped by fallen trees; then, disembarking, we
hastened forward on foot to the crest of the hill
which overlooks the Source of the Mississippi and its
outlet. Here we halted a few moments to survey the
scene before ns and to reflect upon the history of
exploration in this quarter. Much has been said and
written, since my earlier visit, tending to throw dis
credit upon my announcement of that date, and yet
I honestly believe, and feel confldent that I shall be
able to maintain, that this beautiful body of water.

MOUTH OF "INFANT MISSISSIPPI'

344 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
the Po-keg-a-ma of the Chippewas — re-named Lake
Glazier by the companions of my First Expedition —
is the Primal Reservoir; that it was not so considered
prior to my exploration of 1881, and that we were
the first to correctly locate its feeders and establish
its true relation to Lake Itasca and the Great River.
It has been said, by some writers, that Schoolcraft
saw this lake in 1832 and Nicollet in 1836. As to
the former, it may be observed that there is not a line
in the narrative of his explorations to indicate that
he was south of the island which bears his name. On
the contrary, he plainly states that he reached the
upper end of the southeastern arm of Lake Itasca
about one o'clock in the afternoon of July tenth,
1832, fioated down tothe island, had dinner, mado a
few observations, and having an appointment to meet
Indians at the mouth of Crow Wing Rivera few days
later, passed out of the lake and immediately began
the descent of the Mississippi, reaching a point twenty-
five miles below the outlet of Itasca in season for his
evening encampment. An examination of his map
will convince any unprejudiced mind that he could
not have coasted this lake for its feeders; nor could
he even have ascended its southwestern arm. Were
his map faithful to nature, it is certainly not the result
of personal observation, as I venture to assert that
few men could do more within the time allotted by
Mr. Schoolcraft for his investigations than he himself
accomplished. To resume, therefore, and taking his
own account as the most reliable authority which can
be cited, he was less than three hours within the lim
its of the Itascan Basin. Much of the knowledge
Avhich he possessed of Lake Itasca and its environs
must have been obtained from his Indian guide
Ozawindib.

HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 345
I here introduce a few quotations from Schoolcraft,
in support of my position that he omitted to explore
Lake Itasca; and give in his own language his rea
sons for not doing so. It will readily be seen by the
following extract from his " Narrative of the Expedi
tion," page 235, "Sources of the Mississippi" — Lip
pincott, 1855 — that his engagement to meet Indians
at a date previously agreed upon, precluded the possi
bility of his making anything more than a very lim
ited investigation. He says:
"Besides, I had agreed to meet the Indians at the mouth of
the Crow Wing River on the twenty-fourth of July, nnd that
engagement must he fulfilled."
Again, on the ensuing day, at the time of his
arrival at Lake Itasca, he remarks, on page 242 :
"After passing down its longest arm we landed at an island
Avhich appeared to be the only one in ihe lake. 1 immediately
had my tent pitched, and, while the cook exerted his skill to
prepare a meal, scrutinized its shores for crustacra, Avhile
J)r. Houghton sought to identify ils plants. While here, the
latter recognized the mycrostylis opMoglossoide, physalis lan-
ceolata, sUene antirrhina, and mola pedata."
Further, as a proof that it was utterly impossible
for Schoolcraft to have explored Itasca between the
time of his arrival on its shores and his going into
camp on the afternoon of the same day, on the Mis
sissippi, twenty-five miles below the outlet of the
lake, I submit the following, from the same and a
succeeding chapter, whicii shows very conclusively
that his time on the island was fully taken up Avith
astronomical observations, the coining of a name for
the newly discovered lake, geological investigations,
raising the fiag, and other ceremonies in connection
therewith, and the composition of a commemorative
poem. Referring to his observations and the naming
of the lake, he tells us that:

346 DISCOVEKY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
"Tlie latitude of this lake is 47° 13' 35". The highest
grounds passed over by us in our transit from lhe Assowa
Lake lie :.'(, an elevation of 1,695 feet. The view given of tlie
scene in tl; flrst volume of my ' Ethnological Researches,' pago
14 , is taken from a point north of the island, looking into
the vista of the south arm of the lake; I inquired of Ozr.win-
dib the Indian name of this lake; he replied, Or.iuslikds,
which is the Chippewa name of the elk. Having previously
got an inkling of somc of their mythological and necromantic
notions of tlie origin and mutations of the country which per
mitted the use of a female name for it, I denominated it Itasca."
Assuming that Schoolcraft was three hours at, and
in the vicinity of, Itasca, and allowing an hour for
tho descent of its southeastern arm to the island,
and another hour for passing out of the lake after
his investigations were completed, it will be seen that
not over one hour, at most, could have been spent in
other employments, and that hour was fully occupied
in pitching and striking tents, in a study of the bot
any, arborology, and mineralogy of the island and
the finding of its latitude, together with the produc
tion of his expressive "Stanzas on Reaching the
Source of the Mississippi," which alone Avould have
taxed the wits and inspiration of many explorers a
week instead of the fraction of an hour.
Proceeding with his examinations at the island,
Mr. Schoolcraft observes, on page 246 :
" Oa scrutinizing the shores of the island on which I had
encamped, innumerable helices, and other small univalves,
were found ; among these I observed a new species, whicb Mr.
Cooper has described as planorhis e<mvpanulatus. There were
bones of certain species of flsh, as well as the bucklers of one
or two kinds of tortoise, scatlered around the sites of old Indian
camp-fires, denoting so many points of its natural history.
Amidst the forest trees before named, the betula pa/pyracem
and spruce were observed. Directing one of the latter to be
cut down and prepared as a flagstaff, I caused tlie United States
flag to be hoisted on it. This symbol was left flying at our
departure. Ozawindib, who at once comprehended the
meaning of this ceremony, with his companious flred a salute
as it reached its elevation."

HEADAVATERS OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 347
Concluding his scientific investigations, School
craft devoted the remainder of his exceedingly brief
visit to the island in evolving the poem to which pre
vious allusion has been made. It is, perhaps, not
too much to add that few writers have been favored
with so happy a theme, or have written under more
romantic circumstances, and whatever its poetic
merit, I feel very confident that it will at least con
vince the reader that if its author did not see the
True Head of the Great River, he was certainly not
idle during his sojourn of an hour on Schoolcraft
Island. I present, without apology, Mr. Schoolcraft's beau
tiful poem as a part of the record of his visit to Lake
Itasca:
STANZAS OIT RBACHIKG THE SOURCE OF THB MIS
SISSIPPI EIVEE IX 1832.

Ha! truant of Western Avaters I Thou who hast
So long concealed tby very sources, flitting shy —
Now here, now there — through spreading mazes vast,
Thou art, at length, discovered to the eye
In ciystal springs that run, like silver thread,
From out tlieir sandy heights, and glittering lie
Within a beauteous basin, fair outspread,
Hesperian woodlands of the western sky,
As if, in Indian myths, a truth there could be read.
And these were tears, indeed, by fair Itasca shed.
II.
To bear the sword, on prancing steed arrayed;
To lift the voice admiring senates own;
To tune the lyre enraptured muses played ;
Or pierce the starry heavens, the blue unknown.
These were the aims of many sons of faniC,
Who shook the world with glory's golden song.
I sought a moral meed of less acclaim.
In treading lands remote, and mazes long;
And while around aerial voices ring,
I quaff the limpid cup at Mississippi's spring. • — H. R. J

348 DISCOVEEY OF THB TEUE SOUECE.
His examinations completed and his poem finished,
we follow Schoolcraft to his evening encampment on
tlie Mississippi, twenty-five miles below the outlet of
Itasca. Continuing his narrative, he writes, on page
246: "Having made the necessary examinations, I directed my
tent to be struck, and the canoes put into fhe water, and imme
diately embarked. The outlet lies north of the island. Before
reaching it we had lost sight of the flngstaff, owing to the
curvature of the shore. Unexpectedly, the outlet jiroved quite a
brisk brook, with a menn width of len fe- 1, and one foot in
depth. Tlie water is as clear as crystal, and we at once found
ourselves gliding along, over a sandy and pebbly bottom,
SI re wed with the scatlered valves or shells, at a brisk rate.
After descending some twenty-flve miles, we encamped on a
high sandy bluff on the left hand."
When it is considered that the foregoing quotations
are taken from the record of a single day, and that
almost the entire forenoon was occupied in making a
portage between the east and west forks of the Mis
sissippi, and that, in addition to passing through a
portion of Lake Itasca, he descended the river twenty-
five miles, it is as clear as the noonday sun that he
could not have had more than an hour at his disposal
on the island, and during his passage through the lake;
and the assumption of afew critics that he must have
seen the lake to the south of Itasca is not within the
bounds of reason. It is, therefore, to be conclusively
inferred that Schoolcraft saw Lake Itasca, accepted
it as tlie Source of the Mississippi — probably on the
authority of his Indian guide — passed out of the lake
and descended the river. Hence, it was impossible
that he could have coasted Itasca, or given any atten
tion to its affluents, and, in support of this view,
I find that he makes no claim to having done so in
the narrative of his expedition.
Did Nicollet see the Source of the Mississippi ? If

A

LAKE ITASCA
SCHOOLCRAFT, 1832.

MAPS OF SCHOOLCRAFT AND NICOLLET
(349)

350 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
SO, he does not describe the lake which more recent
investigation has located as the Origin of the river.
There is nothing on his map, to the southeast of Itasca,
which resembles the delineations of later explorers,
except the creek whieh enters the extreme southern
end of the southwest arm of the lake, and the small
ponds which are expansions of the stream. He doubt
less coasted Itasca in his canoe, and as the mouth of
this tributary is open and clear of obstructions, he
readily entered and ascended it. No recent explorer
will think it strange that he did not see the more im
portant stream proceeding from the large lake to the
southeastward, when we refiect that its inlet into Itasca
is obstructed by reeds and rushes, and completely
hidden from view. Had Schoolcraft and Nicollet
ascended this stream, and looked upon this highly
picturesque lake, they would doubtless have given it
its true character in the record of their explorations.
Was Julius Chambers at the real Source of the
Great River in 1872? No! unless we are to disbelieve
his published statements. After an examination of
his map, and reading with much care everything
relating to the subject, I fail to find confirmation of
the theory that has been advanced by one or two
opponents, that he must have seen, in that year, the
lake which I describe as the Primal Reservoir. The
subjoined extract from the narrative of Mr. Chambers,
in the New York Herald of July sixth, 1872, proves
conclusively that he did not visit the Head of the
river, or any of its feeders; on the contrary, it is very
evident that he paddled his canoe, " Dolly Varden,"
up Nicollet Creek to its first pond, which he clearly
describes in the following language:
" Here, then, is the source of the longest river in the world;

HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 351
in a small lake, scarcely a quarter of a mile in diameter, in the
midst of a floating bog, the fountains which give birth to the
Mississippi." Before concluding with Mr. Chambers, let me ask :
Is there one, among the many who are to-day familiar
with the nomenclature and characteristics of this
region, who will so far stultify himself, and mislead
others, as to assert that the foregoing quotation refers
to the True Head of the Mississippi — an expanse of
water nearly two miles in diameter, having a circum
ference of between five and six miles, and an area of
255 acres, presenting high and wooded shores, and
with no swamps or "fioating bogs" in its vicinity?
What was accomplished by the Government survey
of 1875 in the direction of throwing light upon the
vexed question? Very little, beyond showing the area
and relative proportions of the two lakes under dis
cussion. It was not within its province to trace
streams to their sources, to determine heights and
levels, or meander lakes of less than forty acres in
extent. Hopewell Clarke, a contemporary, and a
surveyor by profession, who did me the honor to
investigate and report upon my explorations of 1881,
comments thus upon the survey in question:
"A singular mistake, however, on the Government plat is
easily accounted for. "The course of the stream from lake H,
until it crosses the south line of Section 22, is substantially
correct as laid down on the Government map; but A\hen they
ran the line between Sections 21 and 22, this stream was not
crossed again, and they naturally supposed it ran due north
through the western edge of Section 22, and that the stream
flowing out of Section 21 into 22 was a branch running into
the main stream; whereas, this is the main stream, which, pass
ing westward under their feet into Section 21 by an outlet
which they they did not see, because it was underground,
takes its course through the eastern part of Section 21, and
crosses into Section 22 again at the point where the Govern
ment surveyors had indicated a feeder to the mainstieam.
The two small lakes, 0 and D, on Section 22, and the two, A and

352 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
B, on Section 21, would not be crossed by a section line; hence,
they were not indicated by the surveyors. At a point where
the section line, between Sections 21 and 28, crosses the bianch
of the spring flowing out of Section 28, the course of the
stream is through a boggy swamp, and it would hardly be
noticed as the stream, without going a considerable distance
north or south of the section line ; hence, it is not shown on the
Government maps, but in place of it, is shown a marsh."
It will be seen by the foregoing that Mr. Clarke
had excellent reasons for excusing the inaccuracies of
the survey, when, as he informs us in this connection:
" Their business was to establish sectional corilers; blaze lines
between the sections; note all lakes intercepted by the section
lines; meander all lakes of more than forty acres in extent;
note streams crossed, and indicate their apparent direction.
Errors will creep into their work, but when we take into consid
eration the difliculties they had to contend with, it is not to be
wondered at."
I quite agree with Mr. Clarke that the mistakes
committed by the survey are not to be wondered at,
and can readily understand their excuse for omitting
to show on their map a most important feeder of the
True Source. Had they traced its affluents to the
springs at the foot of the sand-hills, they would have
discovered, in 1875, what I learned, 'in 1881; that,
instead of being a mere feeder of Itasca, the large lake
beyond it is the Fountain-head of the Mississippi.
With the exclusively topographical survey, under
Edwin S. Hall and his assistants, began and ended
all investigation of an authentic character at the
Headwaters of the Mississippi, up to 1881. Just what
this survey really developed has been presented in pre
ceding paragraphs. After an interval of ten years, I
returned, with the largest body of explorers and sur
veyors that had ever stood on this ground, to examine
my former work, and to submit my claim to impartial
consideration.

23

(353)

CHAPTER X.
JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITIOl?".
!• AVING reviewed the explorations of
those who preceded my earlier visit,
and briefiy alluded to recent investiga
tion, I now present in detail, from our
daily field notes, the observations of
my Second Expedition.
Preliminary to the exploratory work
of the following seven days, I may
explain that our tents were pitched,
and a permanent headquarters established on the south
side of the ridge, or elevated land, which separates
Itasca from the lake beyond, near the outlet of the
latter. This rendezvous we named Camp Trost, in
compliment to our photographer. For convenience,
the beautiful sheet of water in our front will be
referred to in future pages as Lake Glazier.
Camp Trost, August 25, 1891. — Messrs. Trost and
Shure were up at five o'clock, and ofl in a canoe with
their troUing-hooks, on Lake Glazier, in quest of fish.
Their efforts were rewarded with a fine mess of bass,
pike, perch, and pickerel, which were caught in
season for an early breakfast.
At seven o'clock, a detail was made to accompany
Surveyors Horton and Keay in an examination of
Nicollet Creek. It was decided that Messrs. Cobb,
Crane, Cutting, Whitney, and myself should form
(334)

ms^

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-^smm':

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^^^ili-"
;i^^
#sv
C355J
356 DISCOVERY OF THB TEUE SOURCE.
this committee of investigation; and that the length,
width, depth, and velocity of current of this stream
should be ascertained by careful measurement.
Launching our canoes on Itasca, we were soon at the
extremity of the southwest arm of the lake, and a
moment later at the mouth of the creek. This we
found, by the aid of the chain, to be ten feet wide and
two and a half feet deep. We then ascended this
feeder to a small pond, or, more correctly, a fioating
bog. The area of the pond, or bog, was found to be
less than three acres; and the only water exposed to
view was nearly filled with lily-pads. Continuing up
the creek, we came to a second pond, somewhat larger
than the first, and, a few yards farther on, to the
origin of the stream, in a spring at the foot of a sand
hill. Our measurement enabled us to determine that
the distance of the spring from Lake Itasca is 7,307
feet, or only a mile and three-eighths.
Before returning to camp, I may explain that this
is the creek which Nicollet ascended in 1836, and
roughly estimated to be from two to three miles in
length; and which Hopewell Clarke, in 1886, reduced
to two miles. A still more recent visitor, clothed
with " a little brief authority," under the State
Government, has such an unaccountable penchant for
exaggeration, that, in his report to the Governor of
Minnesota, he calls this creek a river, and elevates its
insignificant ponds to the dignity of lakes. It may
be observed that our careful measurement of the
stream by chain shows its length to be only one
mile and three-eighths.
If we pause to consider the difficulties encountered by
Nicollet, while wading through a tamarack marsh, we
can easily believe that this is the stream he describes

-I* ff
From Photograph by F. J. Treat.

EAGLE S NEST.

358 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
as two or three miles in length; but there is no
excuse, at the present day, for any exaggeration on
the part of my successors, who allege that they " car
ried instruments," and whose unworthy motive for
misrepresentation is clearly seen to be a predetermi
nation to misplace me, and by so doing mislead
geographers and the public.
Concluding our investigations at the head of Nicol
let Creek, we returned to the encampment, and later
in the day I coasted Lake Glazier. Messrs. Cobb and
Cutting accompanied me, and seemed greatly sur
prised and pleased with the size and appearance of
the lake.
Camp Trost, August 26, 1891. — All hands were
astir at six o'clock. Most of the party complained
of being cold during the night, although each had a
covering of from two to three heavy woolen blankets.
The forenoon v/as devoted to the work of coasting
Lake Itasca for its feeders. The committee appointed
for this purpose reported on their return that they
had found the outlets of six small streams — two of
them with well-defined mouths, and four filtering
into the lake through bogs. The stream leading to
Lake Glazier, properly designated as the ' ' Infant Mis
sissippi," and the one leading up the Nicollet Valley,
to both of which allusion has already been made, are
the only affluents of Lake Itasca worthy of any con
sideration; the other four being insignificant rivu
lets, rising at very short distances from the lake, and
having no definite course.
In the afternoon, I again coasted Lake Glazier,
accompanied by my daughter, Trost, and Shure.
Starting on the right of the outlet, we passed en
tirely around the lake, a distance of between five

From Photograph by F. J. Tros.t.

MOUTH OF EXCELSIOR CREEK.
Longest and Highest Feeder of Lake Glazier.

360 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECB.
and six miles, halting at the mouths of Eagle, Ex
celsior, and Deer creeks, its principal affluents.
Alice made a sketch of ihe Eagle's Nest, which was
plainly seen in the branches of a tall pine near the
mouth of Eagle Creek. This same nest had been
observed during my previous visit, ten years before,
and I was then informed by Chenowagesic that he
had seen it there for the past thirty years. It was
the circumstance of seeing this nest, and several
eagles in its vicinity, that led me to name the stream
which enters this side of the lake. Eagle Creek.
On reaching the mouth of Excelsior Creek, at the
southern end of the lake, we disembarked, and
walked up the western bank of this tributary to the
crest of a hill. On returning to our canoe, Mr. Trost
photographed the Eagle's Nest from the mouth of
the creek, and also produced a picture of the jutting
headland, na,medL Harriet Promontory, with its mantle
of foliage. On this spot my party of 1881 had landed,
and talked over the results of our expedition of that
year. To revert to Excelsior Creek, I may observe
that it was so named for the reason that it is the
longest, and, in its origin, the highest stream that pays
tribute to the Primal Reservoir of the Great River.
Leaving Harriet Promontory, we continued our
course along the southern shore to the mouth of
another tributary, where we again landed, and walked
along the white sand beach, which is a peculiar and
striking feature of this locality. Our attention was
arrested by the great number of deer and moose tracks
indenting the sandy shore. A similar incident during
my previous visit led me to give to the stream falling
into the lake at this point the name of Deer Creek.
On our way back to camp, the quick ear of Mr.

(361)

362 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECB.
Shure caught the sound of falling water on the east
ern shore. Upon examination, a stream was found
issuing from a mammoth fountain on the side of a
steep hill, about forty feet above. A current of
great velocity rushed down th6 hillside, and, meeting
broken ground in its descent, formed a cascade mid
way between its source and the lake. The water was
largely impregnated with iron. This spring was
christened Shure, and the cascade was named
Florence, after his wife.
During our circuit of the lake, my daughter had
her trolling-hook over the stern of the canoe, and
captured a pike, a perch, a rock bass, and twelve
pickerel, one of the latter weighing nearly fifteen
pounds. It may here be observed that the Primal Reservoir
of the Mississippi is nearly an oval in shape, its great
est diameter being a fraction less than two miles. Its
area is 255 acres, and the average depth, forty-five
feet. The water is exceedingly clear, revealing, in
the shallower parts, a pebbly bed. Its high and
thickly wooded shores are extremely picturesque, the
regularity and uniformity of the trees and their lux
uriant foliage giving the scene the resemblance to an
extensive park improved by art, rather than a wild
product of nature. The pine, spruce, tamarack, and
several varieties of hardwood, including oak, beech,
birch, and maple, were observed from our canoe,
gracefully bending their crests to the passing breeze.
Camp Trost, August 27, 1891. — Called the party
together after breakfast, and formed committees of
investigation for the day. Messrs. Crane, Trost,
Keay, Shure, Munsell, Harrison, Knowlton, and
myself, it was arranged, should proceed forthwith

(36S)

364 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
to the lake, to which a recent pretentious explorer
had applied the name, "^ Hernando de Soto," claim
ing it to be the "source" of the Mississippi, while he
admits, at the same time, I believe, that it has no sur
face connection with Lake Itasca or that river. With
this admission, we hardly recognized the utility of
making any investigation in this direction, but, being
determined to examine everything that has occupied
the attention of geographers and the public, with the
utmost care, we imposed upon ourselves a duty which,
in the light of former and recent investigation, was
felt to be somewhat superfluous and unnecessary. I
can not admit that, in a search for the source of a
river, there can be any good reason for passing the
limit of running water. We, however, set apart this
day for the examination of "Lake Hernando de
Soto." On our way up, Trost photographed the bog,
pond, and spring in Nicollet Valley. We reached
" Hernando " at three o'clock in the afternoon, and
found, as I had anticipated, that its character and
dimensions had been greatly overdrawn. That it has
no visible connection with Lake Itasca or the Mis
sissippi was the verdict of our entire party; in fact, it
is an insignificant dead lake, like others in its vicinity.
It has no inlet or outlet that we could discover, and if
it has an underground communication with any other
body of water, it is more likely to discharge itself into
Lake Glazier than Lake Itasca. All returned to
camp disgusted with the loss of a day, uselessly spent
in tramping through bogs and over sand hills in pur
suit of an imaginary source of the Great River.
However it may appear to some, to me, at least, it
seems an insult to the memory of the illustrious De
Soto to apply his name to anything so unimportant

(365;

366 DISCOVERY OF THB TEUE SOUECE.
as an isolated dead lake, having no surface connec
tion with the Great River, with which he will be
eternally associated. I, therefore, respectfully sug
gest to the Minnesota Historical Society that the
name of the renowned Spaniard be withdrawn, and
that of the pseudo discoverer of this lake be con
ferred upon it. Let Hernando de Soto be insepara
bly connected with lakes and streams that pay living
tribute to the majestic river which will be forever a
monument to his fame, rather than consign it to the
oblivion of a dead lake.
On our way out to "Hernando," a pleasing incident
occurred. We had not proceeded far from camp when
our ears were suddenly startled by a prolonged shout
or "call-whoop," which echoed through the silent
woods from some one at a distance. We, of course,
answered in the language of the forest. Soon a
crashing of the underbrush revealed to us an Indian,
who approached me with an expression of pleasure
on his bronze countenance, and I at once recognized
in our sturdy visitor my old interpreter of 1881 —
Moses Lagard. Upon receiving a cordial greeting,
he explained his presence by telling us that he had
heard through the missionary at Leech Lake — his
home, nearly one hundred miles away — of our expe
dition, and at once resolved to find us. With a small
wallet of food and some matches he had started
forthwith on his long tramp, which occupied him
several days. When night overtook him, he had lain
down in the forest and slept as only an Indian can
sleep, with no roof over him but the sky, and no
other covering than the clothes he wore. He said he
fully believed he would find his old employer wher
ever he might be in that region. Need I say that I

OUTLET OF LAKE GLAZIER
(867)

368 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
was more than glad to see him again, and gratified
by his loyalty and devotion? The distance he had
traveled was little less than a hundred miles, but
fatigue was unknown to him. I introduced him to
my companions, and engaged him to remain with us
until our return to Park Rapids. He was useful to
us in many ways, although we had no need of an
interpreter; and, around the camp-fire at night, his
tales of adventure and translations of English words
into Chippewa were very entertaining to his audi
ence. I will only add that he was faithful in all
things, and always on the alert to serve us to the best
of his ability.
It may be here observed that before our start in
the morning. Surveyor Horton and Mr. Whitney were
detached with instructions to chain and report upon
the length of Excelsior Creek; also its width, depth,
and velocity at three different points. They found
its length to be 8,778 feet; its width at the mouth,
seven feet; its depth, two and a half feet. About
midway between its mouth and the spring in whicii
it originates, the width was reported at three feet
and its depth six inches. The following is the result
of careful measurement:
From Lake Itasca to Lake Glazier  1,100 feet.
Across Lake Glazier to mouth of Excelsior Creek. .4,238 feet.
Length of Excelsior Creek  8,778 feet.
It will thus be seen that from Lake Itasca to the
head of Excelsior Creek is 14, 1 06 feet, clearly demon
strating that this stream is not only the most impor
tant feeder of Lake Glazier, but that its source is
nearly twice as far from Lake Itasca as is the head of
Nicollet Creek, and furnishes the most convincing
evidence to the impartial investigator that the lake
located bv me is the Primal Reservoir — the source

D n

24

(369;

370 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECE.
of Excelsior Creek being at a much greater distance
from Lake Itasca than that of any stream directly
tributary to it.
Camp Trost, August 28, 1891. — Breakfagt at 7.30,
after which Surveyor Horton and Mr. Whitney
crossed to the southern shore of Lake Glazier in a
canoe, and ascended Deer Creek for the purpose of
taking its measurements. They reported its length to
be 6,864 feet; its width at the entrance into the lake,
three feet, and depth at this point, fifteen inches.
This stream, whicii enters the extreme southern end
of the lake, is about half a mile east of Excelsior
Creek, and is second only in importance to the last-
named tributary.
While coasting the southern shore of Lake Glazier
for the mouth of Deer Creek, Horton and Whitney
discovered a small stream which, on ascending, they
found had its source in a lakelet about half a mile
inland. In the afternoon, Keay, Munsell, my daughter and
I walked out to Lake Alice. Alice expressed her sur
prise and delight on viewing the beautiful little lake
to which her name had been given in 1881. While
we were at Lake Alice, Horton and Whitney returned
to the creek they had discovered in the morning.
They found upon investigation with compass and
chain, that their little stream was 1,188 feet long,
and that the lakelet at its head had an area of be
tween two and three acres. With one exception,
this tributary is the smallest and shortest of the five
permanent affluents of Lake Glazier, but when looked
upon from a geographical point of view, as a feeder
of the Primal Reservoir of the Great River, it may be
regarded as of considerable importance.

#1

GLEN ALICE.
Vallo./ rtt Fairlft P.reoU

372 DISCOVEEY OF THE TEUE SOUECB.
Camp Trost, August 29, 1891. — In the moming
Messrs. Horton, Keay, Shure, Trost, Harrison, Knowl
ton, and my daughter walked out again to Lake Alice
for the purpose of surveying and sketching the lake
and its surroundings; also, of measuring the length
of Eagle Creek. The measurement of the creek gave
it a length of 6,978 feet from its entrance into the
lake to its origin in springs some distance beyond
Lake Alice.
It may here be noted that Eagle Creek ranks third
in importance as a feeder of Lake Glazier. It has a
well-defined mouth, a sandy and pebbly bed, and an
average width of about three feet.
After dinner I crossed Lake Glazier with Horton,
Harrison, and Knowlton, and walked up the banks of
the creek discovered by Horton on the previous day.
We then proceeded to Harriet Promontory, on which
our party of 1881 had assembled after the investiga
tions which had led to the conviction and subsequent
announcement that the lake to the south of, and be
yond, Itasca was the True Source of the Mississippi.
Upon reaching the point of the promontory, we sig
naled our friends on the northern shore of the lake
to join us, and on their arrival, every member of the
expedition being present, we raised the Stars and
Stripes to the top of a neighboring pine, the same
flag, I may state, that my party had assembled under,
on the same spot, in 1881.
Our investigations of the Source and alleged sources
of the Great River were now ended, and so far as I
could gather, there appeared to be a consensus of belief
as to the Primal Reservoir. I had hitherto, however,
received no direct communication of the views of
any member of the party, as it had been given me to

im)

374 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOUECE.
understand that a joint consultation would be held
upon the subject, and the result submitted in a
formal report.
I now proceeded to offer a few remarks in terms
prompted by my own feelings and the conclusions I
had long since reached, and spoke substantially as
follows: "Friends and Companions of mt Second Expedition to
THE Headwaters of the Mississippi :
" The ground on which we are assembled to-day has a pe
culiar interest for me, for it was on this spot, in 1881, tliat I
stood surrounded by the little band which had followed me
through lake and portage in my long journey from the then
frontier town of Brainerd, across Northern Minnesota. It
was here I pronounced the beautiful lake upon which we are
now looking the True Source of the Great River. It was also
here that we embarked on our voyage from source to sea; and
now, after a lapse of ten years, you, who represent nearly every
section of our country, have come together to discuss the results
of your investigations as to the truth of my announcement
that this lake is the Primal Reservoir of the Mississippi.
"I had long been of the opinion that Lake Itasca occupied
an erroneous position in our geogi-aphy, but when I came to
the Mississippi in 1881, that lake was everywhere considered
and laid down as the Source of the ' Father of Running
Waters,' while many Indians of Northern Minnesota affirmed
that there were other lakes and streams beyond. Our geogra
phers and educational publishers still believed in the an
nouncement made by Schoolcraft in 1833, and conflrmed by
Nicollet in 1836. Several persons have visited this region
since their day, but not in the capacity of explorers. These
later visitors looked upon this lake and went away, still ac
cepting the source designated by the earliur explorers. They
did not see or search for its feeders. They were not aware
of the proportions of these feeders. They did not me.nsure
their length or width or depth. They did not ascertain by
actual investigation that this lake was the center of a large
basin; that some of its affluents extended to the sand hills, and
that it was what its Indian name, 'Pokegama,' implies, 'The
Place where the Waters Gather,' the Primal Reservoir or True
Fountain-head, from which the Mississippi starts on its long
and tortuous journey to the tropical Gulf, 3,000 miles away.
Careful investigation showed all this in 1881; and now, gen
tlemen, you, who form my Second Expedition of 1891, have
been able to verify or disprove my published statements.
You have seen every lake and stream which has occupied the

^rom a Eketcli by Miss AUijs' Gla«iei-.

A TALK ON THE PROMONTORY.

376' DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
attention of geographers during the controversy which has
followed. Let me indulge the hope that you will, at an early
day, report the result of your investigations, as I feel sure you
will thereby enable all fair-minded persons to determine defi
nitely that the origin of our Great River is found in the hike
which meets every requirement of geographers and scientists.
I feel, furthermore, tbat you are called upon to give an im-
parti.il account of what you have seen, as I have reason to be
lieve the geographical world is looking forward with much
interest to the outcome of your investigations."
At the conclusion of my remarks, Mr. Giles was
called upon to read his record of the expedition,
which he did, commencing with the day on which the
party left Minneapolis, and ending on that on which
our explorations were concluded. The record was in
the form of a diary, and, therefore, recounted the
proceedings of each day.
Then followed the surveyors' report on Lakes
Itasca and Glazier and their afiluents. This report,
of the particulars of which I had previously no cog
nizance, appeared to me in every respect confirma
tory of all I had advanced in 1881, and subsequently,
upon the subject of the True Source. The report is
here given verbatim: Lake Glazier, Minnesota,
August 39, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier.
Dear Sir: In compliance with your request, we hereby
submit a statement covering our investigations as to the length >
of affluents flowing into the southwestern arm of Lake Itasca,
and into Lake Glazier. The following are the results:
"Nicor.LET Creek, from Lake Itasca to source, 7,807 feet.
Equal to 1 mile and 2,037 feet.
Eagle Creek, from Lake Itasca to source, viz.:
Length of Infant Mississippi, or stream connecting
Lakes Glazier and Itasca  _ - _  - 1,100 feet.
Across Lake Glazier, northern end  _ 1,980 ' '
Prom Lake Glazier to Lake Alice...  4,356 "
Length of Lake Alice  J  924 "
Length of Inlet to Lake Alice.  1,518 -'
Total from Lake Itasca to source of Eagle Creek 9,878 "
Equal to 1 mile and 4,598 feet.

JOURNAL OF THB EXPEDITION. 377
Excelsior Creek:
Infant Mississippi   __ 1,100 feet.
Across Lake Glazier from its outlet to mouth of
Excelsior   4,328 "
From mouth of Excelsior Creek to its source in
Sandhills   8 778 "
Total distance from Lake Itasca to source of
Excelsior  14,106 "
Equal to 3 miles and 3,546 feet.
Deer Oebbk, from Lake Itasca to source, viz. :
Infant Mississippi   _. 1,100 feet.
Across Lake Glazier to mouth of Creek...  5 940 "
Length of Deer Creek     6,8(j4 "
Total from Lake Itasca to source of Deer Creek. _13, 904 "
Equal to 3 miles and 3,344 feet.
Horton Creek, from Lake Glazier to source in
Whitney Pond   1,188 "
. Length of Whitney Pond   _  390 "
Total length of Horton Creek   1,584 "
Area of Lake Glazier. ._   255 ceres
Average depth of Lake Glazier  45 feet.
Area of Lnlje Alice    9i acres
Area of Whitney Pond  _  __. 3 "
In all cases our measurements of streams were made, as
nearly as practicable, along the shore. We measured all the
aifluents flowing into the southwest arm of Lake Itasca, and
also those emptying into Lake Glazier, and found that Excel
sior Creek, a fi eder of Lake Glazier, was by far the longest
tributary of either lake, its source being 6,799 feet farther
from Lake Itasca than the source of Nicollet Creek, errone
ously supposed by some to be the most important feeder of
Itasca. It is, therefore, our firm belief that the Primal Reser
voir or True Source of the Mississippi is in Lake Glazier — the
only well-deflned body of water lying above Ita«ca, aud hav
ing any connection therewith, or with the Great River.
Respectfully submitted,
(Signed) E. M. Horton, ) Rurwuors
Oliver S. Keat, \ ^^^^<^y<^^-
Mr. Whitney, the botanist of the expedition, who
had been diligent in the investigation of the fiora of
the surrounding region, being next in order, said in

378 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
substance, that he was preparing, and would submit
later, a detailed report, but for the present would
only state in general terms, that the vegetation at
the Headwaters of the Mississippi bore a strong afSn-
ity to that found in Northern Michigan and AViscon-
siii, and the region bordering upon the Great Lakes.
He had collected many specimens of the native
plants, and proposed to carefully analyze them and
submit his views.
Mr. Crane then announced that he was requested
by his companions of the expedition to express their
appreciation for the opportunity afforded them of
visiting the Head of the mighty river. Having seen
and carefully surveyed the Headwaters, they felt
competent to report intelligently as to its Source.
But one conclusion had been reached by the entire
party, and that was that Lake Glazier was the Primal
Reservoir and the only body of water that could
consistently be designated the Fountain-head. Mr.
Crane added that a report embodying this view
would shortly be formulated and submitted. He
closed his remarks by proposing a vote of thanks for
ihe arrangements I had made for their convenience
.,^nd comfort during their investigations.
Dr. Harrison seconded the motion, and in a few
words expressed his entire concurrence in Mr. Crane's
remarks with reference to the True Head of the river.
'The motion was carried unanimously. Dr. Harrison
(Complimented my daughter on her courage in accom
panying her father into so wild a region, to which
she briefiy responded.
The party was then formed in line on the beach,
and each member having brought his rifie, shotgun,
pr revolver, twenty-five volleys were fired as a salute

JOURNAL OF THB EXPEDITION. 379
to the FLAG, six rounds for the party of 1881, and
nineteen for that of 1891.
We now got into our canoes and returned to camp,
skirting the eastern shore of the lake, and reaching
the encampment on the northern shore between five
and six o'clock.
Sunday, August 30, 1891. — This day was spent
quietly in camp, the morning being for the most part
devoted to writing up journals and preparing letters
for home, to be mailed upon our return to Park
Rapids. In the afternoon it was suggested by Mr. Crane
that divine service be conducted, a suggestion imme
diately approved by the entire party. We accord
ingly assembled in front of the tents and sat in a
semicircle on the dry grass, while our pastor for the
occasion stood on rising ground facing us. Bible in
hand, he commenced the service by reading a chapter
from the New Testament. Then followed a very
impressive prayer, and this by an excellent discourse
on the calling of the fishermen, Simon and Andrew,
to the discipleship. Mr. Crane had a most attentive
audience during his sermon, following which, all
united in singing "Nearer My -God to Thee," Mr.
Knowlton leading. The service occupied about an
hour, and closed with the doxology and benediction.
Mr. Crane may doubtless claim the credit of having
delivered the first sermon ever preached at the Source
of the Mississippi.

From Photo(?raph by F.J. Trost.

LAKE CRANE.
Between Park Rapids and Lake Glaziac.

CHAPTER XI.
RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS.
I FTER an early breakfast at Camp Trost,
on the morning of August thirty-first,
I went down to the shore of Lake
Glazier, accompanied by my daughter
and Lagard. Getting into a canoe on
the right of the outlet, we passed entirely
around the lake, halting at the mouths
of Eagle, Excelsior, Horton, and Deer
creeks, also at Harriet Promontory, where we landed.
Here Lagard erected a tablet which had been previ
ously prepared, commemorative of my First Expedi
tion; and another on which was engraved the names
of the members of the expedition of 1891.
Before leaving the promontory we discharged our
firearms three times, as a parting salute to the flag
which was still flying from the top of the small pine
to which it had been nailed during our ceremonies at
that point on the twenty-ninth. Our salute was
responded to by an equal number of rounds on the
opposite shore. We then re-entered tbe canoe and
returned to the encampment.
Our investigations concluded, and everything being
ready, tents were struck, outfit put into the canoes,
and the journey back to Minneapolis begun. Passing
down the southwestern arm of Itasca to Schoolcraft
Island, we bore to the right and ascended its south
eastern arm to the point where we had embarked at
(381)

383 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
the time of our arrival at the lake on our way out.
The teamsters awaited us by appointment, and as soon
as we had eaten our noonday meal, assisted them in
loading the wagons.
So much time had been consumed in the farewell
circuit of Lake Glazier in the morning, and later in
the forenoon in breaking camp, and our passage
through Itasca, that it was nearly three o'clock in the
afternoon when our little column was put in motion
and the march commenced, which led over the sand
hills and through the marshes to Park Rapids.
We were favored with clear, cool weather through
out the afternoon; and it was the intention to reach a
high and wooded slope, some thirteen miles south of
Itasca, but owing to the steep and rugged condition
of the road, or, more correctly speaking, the trail
which we were following, but little progress was
made, and at nightfall we had advanced only about
ten miles.
The site selected for our encampment was not what
we could have wished; but in a measure answered the
requirements, as it vras on a hill-side covered with
pines, and in close proximity to a small lake which
afforded good water for man and beast. Although our
experience on this ground reminded me more of the
bivouac than the camp, we named it Camp Horton,
in honor of our surveyor, E. M. Horton, of Park
Rapids, who had not only faithfully and efficiently
performed the duties of his position, but had, in many
ways, rendered himself agreeable to the entire party.
Before supper was over, our camp-ground was
enveloped in darkness, and being too much exhausted
to pitch tents, except one for my daughter, we slept
under the open sky.

RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. 383
Although only at the end of August, the night air
of this elevated region was decidedly chilly, and before
curling up in our blankets, a large camp-fire was
built, around which all hands gathered and spent an
hour in story-telling, and a discussion of the events
of our sojourn at the Headwaters. The temperature
fell rapidly as we approached midnight, and we found
it necessary to draw the tent canvas over our blank
ets, and to feed the fire at intervals in order to make
ourselves suflB ciently comfortable for sleep.
We were on our feet at dawn the next morning,
and while the cook was preparing breakfast the
hunters shouldered their fowling-pieces and went in
pursuit of game. Nothing was bagged, however,
worthy of notice, which doubtless was due to the
noise and confusion of the camp — a condition of
things always unfavorable to the art of the sports
man. A few partridges were seen in the underbrush,
and deer and moose tracks noted along the shore of
the lake.
A very noticeable feature of the hill on which
Camp Horton was situated was the great number of
red squirrels seen at every turn. Many were observed
skipping about on the ground; while overhead in the
trees there seemed to be hundreds of these lively little
rodents engaged in a general frolic. So striking was
this peculiarity of our camp-ground that, in referring
to the locality afterward, most of our party spoke of
it as "Squirrel Hill."
Delezene called breakfast at six o'clock, and as soon
as we had drunk our coffee, the wagons were reloaded
and the journey continued. The day opened with a
fair sky at Camp Horton; but the clouds lowered
early in the forenoon, and, although there was no

(384;

RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. 385
rainfall, the mosquitoes were out in full force, and
made our tramp anything but agreeable when passing
through the marshes and lowlands that lay along our
route. The clouds lifted at ten o'clock, and brought
us welcome relief from the torment of our persistent
and sanguinary little enemy.
Between ten and eleven o'clock we came to a beau
tiful expanse of water on the left of the road, which
we had also seen during our journey out. Leaving the
column. Crane and Lagard walked down to the lake
and carefully scrutinized its shores to discover if it
had an inlet and outlet. They estimated its dimen
sions at a mile in length by about three-quarters of a
mile in width. At its northern end there is a
.wooded island with an area of, perhaps, an acre. Its
distance from the Source of the Mississippi is about
sixteen miles. Crane discharged his fowling-piece at
several ducks that were observed a few feet from the
shore, but only succeeded in killing one; this Lagard
secured by wading into the lake, which, at that
point, was shallow, with a sandy bed. At the sug
gestion of a member of the party, the lake was named
in honor of Mr. Crane.
The stream described in a previous chapter, and
referred to as Morrison River, was reached in season
for luncheon, which was eaten on the north bank,
near the spot where we had taken our first refresh
ment in the open air after leaving Park Rapids. As
soon as we had lunched and rested, all mounted the
wagons except Mr. Trost, who went forward in his
high rubber boots in order to find a position from
which to photograph the party while fording the
stream. Men, horses, wagons, and surroundings pre
sented a picturesque appearance while crossing the
25

Prom Photograph by F. J. Trost.

AN ABANDONED CLAIM

RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. 387
river. Dr. Harrison rode the leader and carried over
his shoulder the pole which was used to keep "Jerry"
in position. The remainder of the party were piled
up in the wagons like so much furniture on moving
day. Our afternoon tramp was uneventful. A half-
dozen straggling settler-cabins were seen as we drew
nearer Park Rapids, the same we had noted on our
journey out, and at five o'clock we emerged from the
wilderness and were now wending our way at a more
rapid gait over the "Shell Prairies" toward the little
frontier village we had left on the twenty-second of
August. The feature of our march from Camp Hor
ton to Park Rapids, and that which, perhaps, excited
most comment, was, the endurance displayed by my
daughter, who walked by my side throughout the
day, without once complaining of fatigue, a distance
of at least twenty miles, although the road was so
hilly and rugged in many places as to threaten to pre
cipitate horses and wagons, with their loads, to the
bottom of the declivities.
A hearty welcome met us at Park Rapids, and it
was at once apparent that the inhabitants were deeply
interested in the results of our expedition. We had
barely re-entered our old quarters at the Central
House, when several of the leading villagers, headed
by Dr. Winship, called and plied us with questions
concerning our journey and explorations. It may
be explained that, although the Head of the Missis
sippi is within fifty miles of their doors, and the
people feel a special interest in the question of the
True Source, we found on inquiry that not more
than two or three had ever ventured to traverse the
wretched road that leads to it.

(seg)

EETllRN to MINNEAPOLIS. 38^
During the whole of our journey out and back,
and while making our investigations at the Head of
che river, we were highly favored by the weather.
On one occasion only, during the night, a little rain
fell on our tents, but not enough to inconvenience us,
and the clouds passed away as the morning dawned.
Almost immediately on our return to Park Rapids,
however, a heavy storm crept up from the northwest
and rain fell in torrents.
To return to the hour of our arrival at the Central
House, the first thing thought of by the entire party
was rest, after the severe jolting we had endured in
the wagons and the long and trying march over hill
and dale. Having made our ablutions and donned
clean linen, a hot supper was placed before us,
although it was now late in the evening, and we
gladly partook of it before retiring. The supper, I
may add, consisted, in part, of bear steaks, two of
these animals having been shot on the outskirts of
the village the day before our return. As may be
supposed, bear meat was a novelty to most of the
party, but, on trial, was generally pronounced a pal
atable change after the canned meats, wild fowl, and
fish of the previous two weeks.
Our hotel was, unfortunately for us, undergoing
repair and enlargement; workmen were employed
throughout the building, and the accommodation,
therefore, was not of a luxurious character. The
walls of the rooms were not plastered, but simply
lathed, and the floors without carpet or matting.
There was no furniture whatever, except a bed, and
no toilet articles. To crown all, there were no doors
to the rooms, so that, in order to secure a modicum
of privacy, calico curtains had to be suspended on

390 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
nails across the open doorways. Moreover, to add to
our cheerless condition, a strong northerly wind, with
torrents of rain, had considerably reduced the tem
perature, and, although it was early in September,
the cold was piercing, which made some of our party
long for a warmer latitude. The absence of the nsual
appliances of a hotel, and consequent discomfort,
could not justly be charged against our worthy host,
Ben. Inman, who could hardly have anticipated such
an influx of patrons while his house was undergoing
repair, and so we all resolved to make the best of it,
and resume our journey homeward with the least pos
sible delay.
Before proceeding further, I may here add a few
words concerning the senior member of the expedi
tion, Mr. Giles — who, notwithstanding his advanced
age, bore the journey, both ways, bravely. While at
the encampment, he kept a diary of every event that
transpired, and was very enthusiastic in his admira
tion of the picturesque and beautiful lake embosomed
in the dense forest to the south of Itasca. He passed
over and around it several times, and among other
piscatorial feats, was successful in landing with his
trolling-hook a seventeen-pound pickerel — the flnest
catch made by any of the party. By common agree
ment he was exempted, on account of his years, from
the rougher and more fatiguing duties of the survey,
in which all the others participated.
Moses Lagard, my old interpreter of 1881, who, it
has already been stated, came out from Leech Lake
in search of me, accompanied the party on our way
back to Park Rapids. He had rendered himself
extremely useful in many ways, and was always will
ing and prompt in the performance of any service re-

"e^"!'" "J

THE MENAHGA HOUSE.
Between Wadena and Park Papids, Minnesota.

392 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
quired of him. I was very sorry to be obligod to part
with him, and he seemed much affected on leaving us.
Having rested as much as possible under the
circumstances, and having conversed on the fol
lowing morning with most of the leading inhabit
ants, we took our leave of them and our friends
Postmaster Cobb and Dr. Winship; and flnally of
Horton and Keay, of both of whom I can not speak
too highly. During the time they were with me they
were indefatigable in the discharge of the respon
sible duties for which they had been engaged — Mr.
Horton as a professional surveyor, and Mr. Keay as
his assistant; and both repeatedly assured me of their
unqualifled belief in my position with reference to
the True Source of the Mississippi. This testimony
I value the more highly because they are both quite
familiar with the region around the Headwaters of
the river. On parting, they each handed me a written
document expressing their decided views, and fully
endorsing all my published statements on the subject.
On the afternoon of September second, we boarded
the one o'clock train for Wadena, arriving in the
evening of the same day, and flnding very superior
accommodations at the Merchants' Hotel. On our
journey out, this house was too full to receive our
large party, which obliged us to seek rest and
shelter under other roofs. At the "Merchants'" we
now had supper, bed, and breakfast. J. E. Reynolds,
editor of the Wadena Pioneer, called upon me in the
evening, and we spent an hour in conversation. Mr.
Reynolds gave me much valuable information upon
the early history of the city, and of that section of
Minnesota. The following morning, Mr. Trost, assisted by Mr.

From Photograpli by F. J. Trost. MERCHANTS' HOTEL AND PARK, WADENA, MINNESOTA.

394 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
Shure, took an excellent photograph of the Mer
chants' Hotel, and the little park in front of it.
While, at Wadena, several members of the party sent
off their dispatches to the press, having prepared them,
for the most part, while in camp at the Headwaters.
Mr. Knowlton sent his narrative of the expedition
to the New York Herald; Mr. Crane to the Boston
Herald; and others to sundry Eastern papers and the
Saint Paul and Minneapolis journals. Time allowed
of our taking a stroll through the principal streets
of the town in the morning, and we found everything
wearing an air of prosperity.
About eight o'clock, we left our agreeable quarters
at the "Merchants'" and boarded a train of the
Great Northern for Little Falls. The journey was
attended with no event; but, in the opinion of all,
the country looked beautiful under the rays of the
morning sun — the fields under cultivation giving
promise of an unusually fine harvest.
Little Falls was reached at eleven o'clock in the
forenoon; and we at once proceeded to "The Antlers,"
a hotel which would do credit to a much larger city.
I have seldom met a more agreeable man than mine
host of The Antlers, who very kindly drove me to
Mayor Richardson's ofi&ce, whose acquaintance I had
made on passing Little Falls on my canoe voyage ten
years before. His Honor remembered the circum
stance, and conversed with me on the subject of my
second visit to the Headwaters and the results attend
ing it.
In 1881, Little Falls was a straggling village of a
few hundred inhabitants. In 1891, I found it an
incorporated city of several thousand. On the occa
sion of my first visit, I received a very cordial wel-

RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. 395
come. I must not omit to state, before leaving The
Antlers, that I found in John E. Sutton, the pro
prietor, a comrade who had served with me. under
Custer and Kilpatrick, in the cavalry arm of the
service, during the Civil War. This unexpected
meeting of old comrades revived memories of the
past; but our train was nearly due, and comrade
Sutton insisted on driving me to the station in his
carriage. My companions were ready and anxious to start,
and myself not less so, especially as our next point
was Minneapolis — the beginning and end of the ex
pedition. We arrived at the Union Depot at five
o'clock, and soon dropped back into our old quarters
on Harmon Place. All were in the enjoyment of
excellent health, and expressed themselves well satis
fled with their rough trip to the Headwaters, and
with what had been accomplished. They promised
to submit to me a joint report on the following day,
which they did, unanimously certifying that the True
Head of the Mississippi is in the lake designated by
me in 1881.
The duties which devolved upon us in our inves
tigations at the Source of the Great River having been
satisfactorily fulfilled, the gentlemen composing the
party spent a few days in sight-seeing, visiting the
several beautiful resorts in and around Minneapolis,
and finally took leave of each other, and departed
for their respective homes in different States widely
separated. It affords me much pleasure to add that,
throughout the trip, although all were strangers to
each other, the most perfect harmony had prevailed.

CHAPTER XII.
INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION.
i^N the following day, and several days
succeeding our return to Minneapolis,
the subjoined indorsements were placed
in my hands, with the exception of
three received at a later period from
Park Rapids. This corroborative tes
timony is presented with a view to
establishing the fact that every member of my Sec
ond Expedition fully confirmed my announcement of
1881 that the heart-shaped lake lying above, aud
immediately to the south of, Itasca, is the True Source
of the Mississippi. It may be added that the chief
reason for introducing these indorsements is found in
the statements of a few cavilers, who have gratui
tously asserted that my companions were divided in
their conclusions as to the ^eal origin of the Great
River. In a word, the decision of the party was
unanimous, as will be clearly seen in the report and
unsolicited letters given in this chapter.
E. M. Horton of Park Rapids, to whom allusion
has been made in previous chapters, and who accom
panied the expedition in the capacity of surveyor,
thus expresses his views: Centbal House,
Paek Rapids, Minnesota,
September 2, 1891.
I was engaged by Captain Willard Glazier on August 23,
1891, to accompany his expedition to the Ilascan Basin for the
purpose of measuring the streams flowing into Lake Itasca
and Lake Glazier; vhich I did with the foliowing results:
(•396)

INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 397
Assisted by Oliver S. Keay, I measured all the creeks
flowing into the southwest arm of Lake Itasca, and those
emptying into Lake Glazier, and found that Excelsior Creek,
an affluent of Lake Glazier, is by far the longest feeder, its
source being 6,799 feet farther from Lake Itasca than the
source of Nicollet Creek. It is my belief that the Source of
the Mississippi is in Lake Glazier— the only well-deflned body
of water, beyond Itasca, having a visible connection therewith.
(Signed) E. M. Hobton,
Surveyor to Second Glazier Expedition.
From Oliver S. Keay of Park Rapids: Park Eapids,
September 4, 1891.
Being familiar with all the lakes, creeks, springs, eleva
tions, and depressions in the Itasca and Glazier basins; having
many times visited the same, and the surrounding country, I
unhesitatingly affirm that the Glazier Basin is the larger of the
two. Lake Glazier presents the larger volume of running, or
living, water; and, from my acquaintance wiih the Mississippi
Headwaters, and the adjoining region, I firmly believe that
Lake Glazier is the Primal Reservoir of the river. All unpreju
diced persons who have ever visited the two basins agree that
the Glazier Lake is the Source of the Mississippi.
(Signed) Olivbe S. Keay,
Assistant Surneyor.
From Dr. A. Munsell of Dubuque, Iowa:
The Waybelet,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 4, 1891.
I was one of a party of gentlemen who accompanied Cap
tain Willard Glazier to the Headwaters of the Mississippi in
August, 1891, for the purpose of making a thorough investiga
tion of Ihat region, in order to ascertain what was the real
source of our Great River. Prom all that I there saw— and in
accordance with the rule which recognizes the source of a
river in the remotest living water, and in a lake, if possible —
I have DO hesitation in agreeing with all the other members of
our expedition that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the
Mississippi River.
(Signed) A. Munsell,
Editor, Buhuqm Trade Journal.
From Pearce Giles of Camden, New Jersey:
1215 Harmon Place,
Minneapolis, Mlnnesota,
September 4, 1891.
On August 17, 1891, I left Minneapolis in company with
Captaia Willard Glazier and a party of gentlemen who had

398 DISCOVERY OF THB TRUE SOURCE.
volunteered to proceed with him to the Headwaters of the Mis
sissippi in Northern Minnesota, to ascertain, by investigation,
whether his claim to have located the True Source of that river
was entitled to the recognition of geographers. We arrived at
the Headwaters August 23d, and left September 1st, having
thus devoted ten day^s to the duty we had assumed of solving
the question as to the exact source of the Great River.
We were ably assisted by Messrs. Horton and Keay of Park
Rapids, Minnesota, two practical surveyors, having large
acquaintance with the region; and the affluents of Lakes Itasca
and Glazier were all, on different days, duly meandered, and
their length, width, and depth carefully measured. The
result, as shown by the joint report of the surveyors, con
firmed by the gentlemen assisting in the survey, is most con
vincing to my mind that Lake Glazier, lying to the south of
Lake Itasca, and separated from the latter by an elevated ridge
of land, is unquestionably the True Head of the Mississippi,
being united to Lake Itasca by a permanently flowing stream
— the ' ' Infant Mississippi. " From what I have personally wit
nessed and carefully investigated on the spot, I believe that no
honest inquirer can arrive at any other conclusion. Pbakcb Giles.
From Rev. John C. Crane of West Millbury, Mas
sachusetts: 1315 Hakmon Place,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 8, 1891.
I was a member of the Second Glazier Expedition to the
Headwaters of the Mississippi in August and September,
1891, and made a thorough personal investigation of all
lakes, creeks, and springs around Lakes Itasca and Glazier.
I was accompanied by the other members of the exploring
party, and together we traced the feeders of both lakes to
their origin, The conclusion I have arrived at is forced upon
me — after laborious efforts to discover the truth — that Lake
Glazier, lying directly to the south of Itasca, is the real Head
or Source of the River; and that Lake Itasca is the first
expansion of the stream after leaving its source in Lake
Glazier. (Signed) John C. Cbanb,
Correspondent of the Boston Herald.
From D. S. Knowlton, Boston: The Waverley,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 4, 1891.
As a member of Captain Glazier's Second Expedi
tion to the Headwaters of the Mississippi, in August, 1891,
I desire to add my testimony to the validity of his

INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 399
Claim — that the lake to the south of Itasca, 255 acres
in extent and 45 feet deep, is the veritable Source of the
Pather of Waters. I made a most careful personal investi
gation of the region around the Itasca and Glazier lakes,
and the latter has unquestionably the strongest claim to
be considered the Source of the river. Geographers, scien
tists, and others will be entirely justifled in recognizing and
designating Lake Glazier as the ultimate Source of the Mis
sissippi. (Signed) D. S. Knowlton,
Editor, Boston Times.
From Dr. Charles E. Harrison of Davenport,
Iowa: The Waverley,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 4, 1891.
Having been a member of the company of gentlemen who,
during the month of August, 1891, made a careful investiga
tion of the several streams and bodies of water emptying into
Lake Itasca from the south, I believe that the claim of Cap
tain Glazier in locating the Source of the Mississippi River is
fully justifled, and that geographers and others should recog
nize the Glazier Lake as^its True Head.
(Signed) C. E. Habmson,
Davenport Academy of Natural Sciences.
From Henry R. Cobb of Park Rapids: September 2, 1891.
I accompanied the Glazier expedition to the Headwaters of
the Mississippi, in the month of August, 1891, and found Lake
Glazier, to the south of Itasca, to be the largest well-deflned
body of water which has any visible connection with the
Mississippi through Lake Itasca.
(Signed) Henry R. Cobb,
Postmaster, Pa/rk Bapids.
From Fred J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio:
900 Hennepin Avenue,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 3, 1891.
I had the pleasure of being one of a party to accompany
Captain Glazier to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. I made
photographs of all the lakes and streams flowing into Lake
Glazier, and into Lake Itasca; and, from personal observation
and investigation, I feel perfectly certain that Lake Glazier is
the True Source of the Mississippi River.
(Signed) Fred J. Tbost,
Photographer, Second Glazier Expedition.

400 DISCOVERY OE THB TRUE SOURCE.
From Albert W. Whitney of Beloit College, Wis
consin: The Waveklby,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 4, 1891.
Of all the bodies of water at the head of the Mississippi, 1
consider that Lake Glazier fulfills the greatest number of con
ditions necessary to make it the Source of that river.
(Signed) Albert W. Whitney,
Botanist to Expedition.
From Winfield Scott Shure of York, Pennsylvania:
900 Hennepin Avenue,
Minneapolis, Minnesota,
September 8, 1891.
I have explored, in company with the other members of
Captain Glazier's expedition of August and September, 1891,
all the region within the limits of the Itasca and Glazier
basing, and certify lo the following facts:
First. — That there is no other body of water to the south
of Itasca, and tributary to it, that is so large and well defined
as the fine lake known as Lake Glazier.
8econd.^Tha.t the two ponds, called, by some, "Nicollet's
First and Second lakes," emptying into Lake Itasca, are, in
their origin, not of sufficient remoteness or importance to be
considered the source of the Great River; and, consequently,
have no claim to that distinction.
Third. — That Lake Glazier, above and beyond Itasca, fed
by five permanently flowing affluents, having their sources
more remote from Itasca than any other feeders falling into
that lake, is the True Source of the Mississippi.
(Signed) W. S. Shure.

CONCLUSION.
I feel very confident that all who are interested in
the question discussed in Part Third of this volume
will find ample evidence to sustain the author in his
claim to have been the first to definitely locate the
True Head of the Mississippi. As I have said in a
previous publication, I am well aware that I assume
grave responsibility in locating the Source of the
greatest river of North America, and correcting a

INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 401
geographical error of half a century's standing;
especially, since I follow in the footsteps of such emi
nent explorers as Pike, Cass, Beltrami, Schoolcraft,
and Nicollet; and in view of the fact that I have pre
sumed to pass the limit of their explorations.
The statement that the lake now generally accepted
by geographers as the Primal Reservoir was so re
garded prior to the organization of my First Expe
dition can not be substantiated; on the contrary,
both press and people throughout Minnesota were
ignorant of its importance, or even of its existence,
so far as we were able to ascertain by diligent inquiry,
from Winona to Brainerd; and, in fact, I may add,
that the missionary, Indian agent, and post-trader at
Leech Lake knew no other source of the Mississippi
than Lake Itasca, except what they had been told by
my chief guide, Chenowagesic, and a few other Chip
pewas in that vicinity. Barrett Channing Paine, a
member of my party, fully confirms me in this
assertion in his letters to the Saint Paul and Minne
apolis papers of that period. These letters prove
most conclusively that the people of Minnesota had
no knowledge whatever of the lake beyond Itasca,
until it was announced by us through the medium of
the press, in 1881.
I assume that my position, with regard to locating
the True Source, is precisely the same as that of
Schoolcraft in connection with Lake Itasca. When
William Morrison, the fur trader, pitched his tent on
Schoolcraft Island, in 1804, he was probably not aware
that the outlet of the lake on which he looked was the
Mississippi. Schoolcraft followed, at the head of an
expedition, twenty-eight years later, and claimed the
lake as the Source of the Great River. It is very
26

40a DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE.
generally admitted that Morrison had seen Itasca
before Schoolcraft, but no one questioned that the
latter was entitled to the credit of discovery, since he
was the flrst to establish the fact that the Mississippi
was its outlet.
I do not desire to pass a reasonable limit in my
effort to establish a geographical truth, but, having
announced that the lake to the south of Itasca — the
Pokegama of the Chippewas — is the Ultimate Reser
voir, I do not feel disposed to be thrust aside by those
who know comparatively little or nothing of that
region. Assuming that the conclusions arrived at by
every member of both my First and Second expedi
tions are incontrovertible, it naturally follows:
First. — That Lake Itasca can not longer be consid
ered as the origin of the Mississippi, for the reason
that it is the custom, agreeably to the deflnition of
geographers, to fix upon the remotest water, and a
lake, if possible, as the source of a river.
Second. — That the lake to the south of Itasca, con
nected therewith by a perennial stream, is the Primal
Reservoir, or True Source; that it was not so known
or recognized prior to the visit of my party in 1881 ;
and that we were the first to locate its feeders cor
rectly, and establish its true relation to the Great
River. Third. — That Schoolcraft could not have seen the
lake located by me, else he would -have assigned it its
true character in the narrative of his expedition.
Fourth. — That Nicollet, who followed Schoolcraft,
could not have been aware of its existence, as he gives
it no place upon his map, or description in the account
of his explorations.
Fifth. — That Julius Chambers did not see this lake.

INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 403
as his published statements prove very conclusively
that he ascended Nicollet Creek to the first pond on
that stream, and describes a lakelet in a fioating bog,
instead of the large and beautiful lake which is now
generally regarded as the Source of the Mississippi.
Finally. — Whatever the verdict upon the merits of
my claim to have been the first to definitely locate the
lake beyond Itasca as the Source of the Mississippi,
and to have published it to the world, it was certainly
not known to the white inhabitants of Northern Min
nesota prior to 1881. Lake Itasca was still recognized
as the Fountain-head, was so placed upon all maps,
and taught as such in all the schools. I simply claim
to have established the fact that there is a beautiful
lake above and beyond Itasca, wider and deeper than
that lake, with woodland shores, with five constantly
flowing streams for its feeders, and in every way
worthy of the position it occupies as the Primal Res
ervoir or True Source of the Father of Waters.

(404)

APPENDIX

CONCERNING

OE THB
MISSISSIPPI BY
PEARCE GILES,
MEMBER OP
Second Glazier Expedition,
1891.

APPENDIX.

-HAVE undertaken to prepare an Appendix to
Captain Glazier's book on the "Hbadw.vtees
op the Mississippi." I am well acquainted
with every detail of his claim to have located
the Primal Reservoir of that river; have read all
that he has written upon the subject, and
much that has been written by others, in favor
of, and opposed to, his views. I have known
him intimately for many years; have conversed
with him frequently upon the subject of his expeditions
through Northern Minnesota to the True Source of the Great
River; have journeyed with him over thousands of miles of
this country; have looked, and floated with him, upon the
beautiful sheet of water which he asserts and demonstrates is
the reservoir of the remotest springs of the Mississippi, to
which his companions, in 1881, gave the name of Lake
Glazier. I have, with great care, personally investigated
the grounds upon which he bases his claim; and for thesfc
reasons I feel competent to lay before the readers of his book
Some material which I trust may be of interest to geographers
and educators, and to those who have given any attention to
the ten years of controversy which have followed his announce
ment of 18''1, that a certain lake, immediately to the south of
Lake Itasca, is the Fountain-bead of the Father of Waters.

(407)

(408)

FIRST GLAZIER BXPEDITIOH" AND ITS RESULTS.
In his work, "Down the Great River," Captain Glazier
clearly explains his motive for projecting his First Expedition
to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. He therein states that
he had heard that much uncertainty prevailed on the subject
of the exact location of its Source, and decided to investigate
the matter for himself, and for the satisfaction of others who,
possibly, had less time at their disposal to devote to such an
inquiry. He was not over-sanguine as to the issue of his
venture, but little dreamed ot the acrimonious and unreason
ing opposition and contradiction he was fated subsequently to
encounter. He believed that he was a'lout to engage in a
laudable undertaking, the result of which might possibly
prove of some interest to students of geography and others.
Hence, he employed his means lo attain an object which ap
pears to havo eluded the efforts of all previous explorers — the
Source of the Mississippi was still in doubt, although its
mouth had been known over two hundred years before. This
was sutHcient reason, he tliought, for further exploration; and
possessed of a strong desiro to see a part of the country but
little known, ho resolved to organize and equip an expedition,
proceed to Lake Itasca and investigate its right to the distinc
tion long accorded it of standing at thc Head of the Mississippi.
July 4, 1881, Captain Glazier, accompanied by his brother
George of Chicago, and Barrett Channing Paine of the Saint
Paul Pioneer Press, boarded a train at Saint Paul, en route to
the then frontier town of Brainerd, near the boundary of the
Chippewa Indian Reservation. They reached Brainerd July
seventh, and remained .there flve daj-s to complete their com
missariat supplies, and make arrangements for a journey
through the wilderness and a possible detention at the Source
of the river. Captain Glazier also gathered much information
at this point concerning the topography of the country, and
(409)

410 APPENDIX.
flnally decided to proceed via Leech Lake as a more direct
CO rse to his destination than that adopted by previous ex-
jilorers, who had passed up the Mississippi through Lakes
Winuebegoshish, Cass, tmd Bemidji, a longer and less-inviting
route. He therefore secured wagon conveyance to Leech
Lake, distant seventy-flve miles from Brainerd, which led
through an immense f r.rest and jungle of pine and underbrush.
Leech Lake is a small settlement stauding on the banks of
the Like of that name, and consists of about a dozen Govern
ment buildings and log cabin=, with several wigwams. It
was formerly the seat of the Chippewa Indian Agency, which
is now united with the White Earth and Red Lake agencies,
and at tl'.e period of Captain Glazier's visit was under the
superintendence of Major Ruffee, as Agent. Captain Glazier
was fortunate, at this stage of his journey, in securing the
valuable services of a Chippewa Indian, named Chenowagesic,
who was well informed concerning the Itascan Basin and the
region surrounding it. He told the Captain that the country
around the Headwaters of the Great River had been his hunt
ing ground for many years, and being informed of the wish of
the party to discover whether Itasca was the Source of the
river, Chenowagesic declared emphatically that Itasca was not
the True Head of May- see-see-bee, a fact well known to him
self and many Indians who had hunted with him.
Two other Indians were a^so engaged at Leech Lake, one as
interpreter, the other as voyageur. The three placed their
birch canoes at the disposal of the party for use on their jour
ney througli and across the numerous lakes and streams that
interve"ed between Leech Lake and their destination. July
seventeenth witnessed the departure of the party from the set
tlement. An hour's paddling carried them across one of the
several arms of the lake, and a short portage brought them to
another arm from fifteen to twenty miles long, crossing which
they came to the mouth of the Kabekanka River. Guided
by Chenowagesic, they ascended this stream until a small
lake or expansion of the river was reached, and ultimately
a largo and picturesque lake, nearly seven miles in length.
On its banks they pitched tenIs for the night, and at
break of day July eighteenth agaiu launched and pushed
on to the upper end of the lake. Chenowagesic, on being

APPENDIX. 411
asked, informed the Captaia that the Indians had no name
for this lake, whereupon he conferred upon it the name of
"Garfield," in honor of the President.
Arrived at the head of Lake Garfield, a long portage of
nearly three miles confronted them. This was accomplished
by th'j ladians without the slightest sign of fa'.igue or discom
fort, notwithstanding the heavy packs they bore upon their
heads and shoulders, including the canoes; but the white men
suffered much from the intense heat, the roughness of the trail,
and the mosquitoes, whioh hovered like a cloud over the low
lands. Rested and recovered from tho tiresome portage of the
forenoon, they resumed their line ( if march. Late in the after
noon the party reached a series of five lakes — a not unwel
come sight after their tramp in the broiling sun. Again on
the water, they passed through three of the lakes, with, neces
sarily, intermediate portages, and i etching the fourth, con
cluded to encamp for the night.
At sunrise the following morning they breakfasted, and at
seven o'clock re-embarked. By ten o"c'.ock tbe flfth lake was
entered. Here the guides informed Captain Glazier that these
lakes had never before been seen by white raen. He therefore,
after consulting with his brother and Mr. Paine, named them
in the oider in which they had been passed — Bayard, Stone
man, Pleasanton, Custer, and Kilpatrick, geneiah who were
severally his commanding offlcers during the War of the
Rebellion. Eight exhausting portages occurred during the
day, and an equal number of lakes were crossed after leaving
Lake Kilpatrick. The three largest of the latter received from
the Captain the names of Gregg, Davies, and Sheridan, dis
tinguished cavalry leaders of the Union army.
One of the most expansive bodies of water, seen between
Leech Lake and Lake Itasca, had an average width of about
flve miles, and bore an unpronounceable Indian name, signi
fying "Blue Snake." To this sheet of water the Captain
gave the name of his brother George. Lake George was
crossed, and the canoes conveyed to the highest ground in the
vicinity. The sun was declining, and, the whole party needing
rest, tents were again pitched. Early the following morning,
all eager to reach their destination, and fortifled by a good

412 APPENDIX.
night's sleep, the canoes were pushed into a flne sheet of
water named by thc Captain Lake Paine, after his companion
of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press. This lake is only a short dis
tance from Lake George, the intervening space being compara
tively level, and covered with jack-pines and underbrush.
Crossing Lake Paine, another portage of half a mile presented
itself, and the River Naiwa was reached, a stream several
miles in length. Descending this river a distance of flve or
six miles, they disembarked and portaged in a westerly direc
tion, reaching another stream, that appeared to be a favorite
haunt for wild fowl, which were very numerous, and seem
ingly unaffected by the iipproach of man. Paddling four
hours up this stream they came to a lake which Captain
Glazier believed lo be the source of the Eastern Fork of the
Mississippi. This \\ ater was passed over in twenty minutes,
and the name "Elvira" conferred upon it, in memory of a
deceased sister of the Captain.
At the southern end of Lake Elvira, the canoes entered
its inlet, which flows in a northerly direction, and discharges
into the main stream originating in Lake Glazier, not far
from the southern end of Lake Bemidji. It was not laid
down on the maps, and was named De Soto River by Captain
Glazier, in honor of tlie renowned discoverer of the Missis
sippi. The day was now drawing to a close, and, nearly
exhausted by the portages over the roughest region of Minne
sota, it was promptly decided to encamp for the night.
In the morning a heavy fog, rising from a swamp in their
front, obscured the trail, and the journey could not be resumed
until seven o'clock. Moving forward in Indian file, they
rested thirteen times before reaching the shores of Lake Itasca.
Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, their eager
eyes beheld the silvery waters of the lake, and in a few min
utes the party were floating on its bosom on their way to
Schoolcraft Island, near the center of the lake. On this
solitary isle, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft encamped sixty years
ago, and believed that in the waters that surrounded him he
had discovered the long-sought- for Source of the Mississippi.
This belief he afterward announced to the world, and for over
flfty years the lake was held, on the authority of Schoolcraft,
to be the Ultimate Head of the Pather of Waters, no one gain-

APPENDIX. 413
saying it. This, doubtless, was for the reason that very few
persons, except Indians, had ever visited it, the region around
Lake Itasca being well-nigh inaccessible, and entirely so with
out a competent guide.
Schoolcraft Island is about three-quarters of an acre in
extent, and so densely covered with trees, shrubs, a' d under
growth that the Glazier party found some difflculty in clear
ing a space for their tents. The appearance of Itasca and its
environment of forest lands is highly attractive. It is about
flve miles in length, with an average wid h of about half a
mile. Its greatest length is from southeast to northwest. It
has three arms radiating from its cent'^r, somewhat like those
of a star-flsh. One arm points to the southeast, one to the
southwest, and the remaining one extends northward to the
outlet of the lake.
Chenowagesic, perfecily familiar with the region, informed
the Captain that the name of the lake was Omushkos. School
craft himself, in the narrative of his expedition, Chapter
XXIII, says:
"1 inquired of Ozawindib the Indian name of this lalce; be replied,
Omuslikos, which is the Chippewa name of the Elk. Having previously-
got an inkling of some of their mythological and necromantic notions
of the origin and mutations of the country, which permitted the use of
a female name for it, I denominated it Itasca.''''
Having supped and rested on the island, the exploring
party re-embarked on the morning of the twenty-second, at
eight o'clock, and began coasting Itasca. Chenowagesic agaia
assured the Captain and his companions that he was thoroughly
acquainted with all the streams, lakes, and ponds within a
hundred miles, and impressed them with his entire trust
worthiness. In coasting the lake they found the outlets of
six small streams, two only having well-defined mouths, and
four simply flltering into the lake through swampy ground.
Reaching the southern extremity of the southwestern arm
of the lake, the canoes were forced, with some difflculty,
through a tangled mass of reeds and rushes to the mouth of
a streim about seven feet wide, but effectually c ncealed from
view by dense lake vegetation. Encouraged by their guide,
the canoes were p inted up this affluent, which was much
obstructed by fallen trees and occasional sand-bars. These

414 APPENDIX.
were, however, removed by the crews, and the boats again
urged forwaid. Elevated land appeared on each side of the
stream, that on their right rising to the dignity of a hill. Tiiis
hill, or ridge, Chenowagesic explained, overhung the Source
of the Father of Waters toward which they were speeding,
and which separated it from Itasca. This Indiau was an
exceptionally intelligent man, as well as a faithful guide. The
object of their search was soon reached — a large sheet of
smooth, transparent water of surpassing beauty. Afloat on its
surface, the conviction forced itself upon them that the Source
of the Mississippi could no longer be a subject of uncertainty.
The cauoes were at once paddled across the lake, a distance of
nearly two miles, to a promontory at its southern extremity.
This point of land, with its picturesque sho: e projecting
into the lake, gives the latter the shape of a heart, a fltting
resemblance for ihesourceof the mighty river. Encompassed
by high ground, thickly clustered and adorned with trees of
diverse kinds, dominated by the stately Norway pine, the
waters of this beautiful lake scintillate under the rays of the
sun, and sparkle like the luster of a million gems. Its broad
surface is singularly free from that opaqueness which mars the
beauty of many of the surrounding lakes, including Itasca.
It is supplied by springs, some in its bed, but two fcede s
were found, on careful investiga'.ion, under the guidanc e of
Chenowagesic, to originate in sand-hills a few miles to the
southward, and flowed into the lake on each side of the
promontory; while a third entered on the northwestern shore
of the lake. Theso affluents, small but signiflcant, were
named, respectively. Eagle, Excelsior, and Deer creeks. At
the extreme point, or cape, of the promontory, a spring was
discovered whose water was deliciously cool. The shores of
the lake were then investigated.
Returning to tbe promontory, the party was called into line,
and Captain Glazier made a few remarks, expressing his con
fldent belief that they had found the True Soukce of the
Great River, a discovery which had baffled the attempts of
previous explorers; and they had therefore added something
to the geographical knowledge of the country. lie dwelt on
the error of Schoolcraft in assigning this distinction to Lake
Itasca, which was now clearly seen to be merely the flrst

APPENDIX. 415
expansion of the river, after leaving its source in the lake they
were looking upon. Chenowagesic had told him that the
Indian name of this lake was Pokegama, which the interpreter
explained signified "The Place where the Waters Gather," or,
in other words, the Primal Reservoir. If such was the case,
it was unquestion ibly the Fountain-head, or True Source,
of the Mississippi.
At the conclusion of the Captain's remarks, Mr. Paine
stepped forward and spoke of the justness of his views, in
whidi the cn'ire party concurred. He thin moved that
the lake be named Glazieb, in honor of the man whose
determination and perseveiance to learn the truth on a sub
ject of so much general interest had successfully accom-
plishrd the end he had in view ou leaving Saint Paul. The
motion of Mr. Paine was seconded by the interpreter, Moses
Lagard, and adopted by acclamation; Captain Glazier, mean
while, protesting that he would prefer it should retain its
descriptive Indiau name of Pokegama.
I may here remark that some of Captain Glazier's critics
have recently applied the term "Elk " to this sheet of water,
a name which, according to Schoolcraft, as we have seen, was
the aboriginal designation of Lake Itasca. Lake Glazier is
entirely disconnected with Itasca, the two lakes being sepa
rated by a high ridge and perfectly independent of each
other. A perennial stream at the foot of the ridge, up which
the party ascended in their canoes, and lo which the name of
"Infant Mississippi" has been appropriately given, carries the
waters of the upper lake to its lower neighbor, on its long
route to the Gulf of Mexico. Thus the lake above Itasca is
in no sense a part of Iiasca, and to call it "Elk" Lake is an
anomaly, and an unworthy evasion, a perversion of scientific
accuracy, misleading to the student, and, in .'•hort, a geograph
ical blunder. Itasca has been ' ' Elk Lake " fron time
immemorial, according to Indian tradition; while Pokegama,
since 1881, has been popularly transmuted into "Lake
Glazier." This lake, which proved to be the Primal Reservoir, or Ulti
mate Head, of the Mississippi, was found by measurement to
cover an area of 355 acres, with an aveiage depth of forty-
five feet. The results of the First Glazier Expedition were

416 APPENDIX.
SO far satisfactory that, on their announcement to the public
through the press, geographers, instructors, and educational
publishers were unanimous in their acceptance of the Glazier
claim, and a change was forthwith made in all maps of the
State of Minnesota.
Some of the opponents of C (plain Glazier's published views
on the subject have of late maintained that Schoolcraft visited
the lake ab ive Itasca in 1833, and Nicollet in 1836. There is
not a word in the ' • Narrative " of the former to indicate that
he went south of the island which bears his name. All the
evidence points in the opposite direction, and it must be clear
to the careful reader that he remained on the island only a few
hours. He says he was hurried, having an appointment to
meet certain Indians in council at the mouth of Crow Wing
River. His map of Lake Itasca does not show the lake to the
south of it. Hence it is presumable that he could not have
coasted Itasca for its feeders, which, to have been effectually
accomplished, would ha'-e occupied him an entire day at least.
Even if he had done so, the strong probability is that, being
hurried, he would not have found the concealed entrance tothe
stream which led to the lake beyond. Captain Glazier admits
that he was largely indebted to his chief guide, and that had
it not been for Chenowagesic he would possibly never have
discovered the mouth of this important affluent. The lime
allotted himself by Schoolcraft, as indicated iu his " Narra
tive," would not have allowed him to ascend the southwestern
arm of Itasca, much less so to pass up the creek to the impor
tant lake beyond it. Tlie conclusion to be drawn from his
' ' Narrative " is, that he was only between two and three hours
within the Itascan Basin, and, in his eagerness to depart on his
mission lo Crow Wiug River, he not improbably relied upon
his guide, Ozawindib, for whatever knowledge he obtained of
Lake Itasca and its surroundings.
If Nicollet saw the Source of the Mississippi, he certainly
failed to describe it. He shows on his map only the creek
which enters the southern end of Itasca and the ponds
through wbich it passes on to the lake. He doubtless ascended
this creek, but the more important stream entering the lake
on his left escaped his view, as it would that of ninety-nine
peroons out of a hundred. If he had ascended this affluent

APPENDIX. 417
of Itasca, he would at once havo discovered that Schoolcraft
was in error, that Itasca was not the Source of the Mississippi
River, and his map would have been differently constructed.
The mouth of the inlet that led to the True Source was doubt
less hidden then, as now, by a mass of lake vegetation, which
so concealed it from view that in 1881 even Chenowagesic had
difflculty in flnding it. I therefore reasonably conclude that
Nicollet, like his predecessor, was deceived in assuming Itasca
to be the Source of the Mississippi, the logical inference being
that he never saw the beautiful lake to the south of it.
In 1873, Lake Itasca was visited by Julius Chambers. Mr.
Chambers, during his summer vacation, was not an explorer,
but a tourist on pleasure bent, and paddled his canoe on Lake
Iiasca up to ils southern end. Here he discovered the mouth
of a creek wide enough to admit his canoe, and, ascending
it, came to a pond or expansion of the creek. Believing he had
entered an important feeder of the river's source, or rather, as
he terms it in a dispatch to the New York Herald, the Source
itself of "the longest river in the world — a .small lake, scarcely
a quarter of a mile in diameter, in the midst of a floating
bog." Having myself visite 1 the Headwaters of the Mississippi in
the summer of 1891, I became thoroughly convinced, after
careful personal investigation, that the Primal Reservoir of
the Great River is a body of water lying to the south of Lake
Iiasca, nearly two miles in diameter, and that there is not
the faintest shadow of a bog or morass within at least a
mile of it. Its basin is secluded — an elevated ridge dividing
il from Itasca — and the surrounding shores are high, and
crowned with a dense growth of timber. Mr. Chambers'
description of his boggy pond on Nicollet Creek is proof
sufficient to me that he, in common with Schoolcraft and
Nicollet, made a serious mistake. The genesis of the " long
est river in the world," or, if not the longest, the finest, is
not in a "floating bog, a quarter of a mile in diameter," but
has a much nobler origin. It is to be hoped that Mr. Chambers
will pay another visit to Lake Iiasca, and correct his error.
The Government survey of 1875 doubtless saw the True
Source of the river, but did little beyond measuring ils
area. This was a portion of their duly, as the lake exceeded
27

418 APPENDIX.
forty acres in extent. They did not trouble themselves about
its relation to Lake Itasca or to the Mississippi, nor did they
give much attention to ils feeders, for had they done so, they
would not have shovni on their map an important feeder of
Lake Glazier as an affluent of Lake Iiasca, lihus depriving the
former of one of its credentials to the distinction claimed for
it, and adding to the importance of the latter. Had they pos
sessed the instincts of geographers or explorers, they would
have discovered and reported to their chief at Washington
that the large lake above and beyond Itasca was the True Head
of the Mississippi, and thus forestalled the explorer of 1881,
who discovered and announced this important geographical
fact to the country.
Hopewell Clarke, a professional surveyor, who was sent out
to investigate and report upon Captain Glazier's explorations,
confesses that the Government survey of 1875 had made mis
takes, and excuses their inaccuracies in these words: "Errors
will creep into their work; but when we take into consideration
the difficulties they had to contend with, it is not to be won
dered at." Had the members of this survey of 1875 conducted
their investigations wilh a view to the location of the Source
of the Mississippi, and had they traced the affluents of this
lake to their springs, they would have been satisfled thai it
was the Source of the Great River, and not simply a feeder
of Lake Iiasca; that its size and position entitled it to more
consideration than they were inclined lo give it.
The result of Captain Glazier's First Expedition was the
discovery that Lake Itasca could not — with any regard to
geographical accuracy — be considered the Source of the
Mississippi, as was taught in all geographies and maps prior to
1881 — the period of his visit and discovery; but that the flne
body of water above il, the Pokegama of the Indians, was
unquestionably the Primal Reservoir and Head of the
river; a truth now generally recognized by geographers,
encyclopsedists, instructors, and map publishers, and contro
verted by only a few quibblers, who have not themselves
visited the region, and hence are essentially unqualifled to pro
nounce judgment in the matter.
Schoolcraft and Nicollet are worthy of the greatest honor
for their persevering efforts to reach the Source, and if they

APPENDIX. 419
failed in the accomplishment of that object, it is no more than
many other distinguished explorers have done, in attempts to
flnd the springs of other great rivers. All knowledge is pro
gressive, and geography, in common with history, is open to
correction as time rolls on. The beliefs of centuries are some
times proved to be without foundation, and are cast aside for
the results of modern research. The explorations of intrepid
pioneers and travelers are yearly adding to our knowledge of
the earth, and if the labors of one intelligent and zealous
American, with time and means at his command, have resulted
in a discovery that those who preceded him in the same line
of investigation were in error in their conclusions, shall it
be said, in this enlightened day, that he is not justifled in
declaring his discovery because a few cavilers affect to dis
credit him ?

B.
CRITICS AND CAVILERS.
The controversy c mcerning the Source of the Mississippi
has been conflned to an extremely limited circle. Certain
critics and cavilers, more or less given to raising objections
when a new exposition of an old theory is advanced —
especially if the propounder is not of their caste — have con
troverted the truth of Captain Glazier's account of his dis
covery, and challenged him to produce proof of his positive
assertions: (1) That Lake Itasca possesses no rightful claim to
be considered the Source of the Mississippi; and (3) that the
True Source of that river is in a comparatively large lake
immediately to the south of Itasca, and above il. These are
the points in dispute, and the first proposition is, of course, a
corollary of the second.
Captain Glazier has repeatedly presented his proofs
through the press, and has answered the challenge of his
opponents by inviting them to accompany him to the Head
waters of the river and investigate aud judge for themselves,
volunteering to defray half (he expense incurred. This offer
they have not accepted, but replied by sending out a person,
independently, to represent them, a man who, before setting
forth on his mission, paraded in public his determination to
support his employers. This offensive display of partisan
ship in the sacred cause of science passed unreproved by the
critics of Captain Glazier, but was not unheeded by his
friends. The party referred lo proceeded on his mercenary
errand, and has since published a report which for subter
fuge, evasiveness, and moral obliquity has seldom been
equaled. It was, however, indorsed and published with the
sanction of his patrons. But the words of the report were no
index to the writer's mind. He had looked upon the True
Source of the Mississippi if his patrons had not, and could
not be otherwise than mentally assured of the truth and
(420)

APPENDIX. 421
scrupulous correctness of the Glazier position. He returned
to his employers — and denied it! There was little fear of
their discovering his duplicity, even if they had wished to do
so. The spot is very difficult of access, as I have shown. He
plausibly pointed to other lakes, ponds, and streams, and
while admitting that none of them had any visible connection
wilh Lake Iiasca or the Mississippi, suggested that probaUy
the connection was underground ! He knew it was the wish
of those who had been instrumental in sending him to the
Headwaters that he should not return and support the views
of Captain Glazier, which views they had previously, in their
wisdom, denounced as "fraudulent," and their propounder a
"charlatan." They were apparently conflrmed in their mis
taken belief that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Mississippi.
Not so, however, the press and the public. The sentiment
was widely expressed that Captain Glazier was not being
fairly treated, and the people, prompt to detect and denounce
injustice, made their views known, not only in the North
western press, but throughout the country. I will here sub
join a few examples of these views, of which I have hundreds
in my possession.
A correspondent at Worcester, Massachusetts, writes to a
Saint Paul daily, in March, 1886:
In 1881 , Captain Willard Glazier brought to the notice of the people of
this and other countries that beyond Itasca lay the Source ot the Great
River. . . . Let tbe men stand up and be counted who, prior to 1881,
declared that the lake now named Lake Glazier was the source of the
great stream flowing through the nation's heart. Let your correspond
ent, " Somebody who Knows," furnish the names of these men. . . .
Is Lake Glazier the source of tbe river? That is the question. School
craft says, '* Geographers deem that branch of a river as its true source
which originales at the remotest distance from its mouth." Glazier
says, " It is the custom of geographers to fix upon the remotest water,
and a lake if possible, as the source of a river." In 1881, he claimed the
lake in question as the True Source. Let the proposition lately made by
him [the offer to defray half the expense of au authorized expedition to
decide the question] be accepted in good faith, and his claim stand or
fall on its merits. ... As long ago as 1858, tbe doubt existed as to
Itasca being the True Head. ... A great claim is made by Captain
Glazier; let his claim be met in a spirit of fairness on tbe part of all
concerned; let the verdict be true, free from prejudice, and lasting.
Fair Play.

433 APPENDIX.
A writer in the Buffalo Courier, in November, 1886, took
issue with that journal regarding the discovery of the Missis
sippi's source:
Editor of the Courier:
In your issue of September 19tb there appears a short article dealing
"blows without gloves "at Captain Willard Glazier's " pretensions " to
bavmg discovered tbe True Source of the Mississippi in a lake to the
south of Itasca. The article appears to have been inspired by a corre
spondent of Science, who objected to Captain Glazier's claim on grounds
which I propose to analyze. Tbe correspondent ot Science begins by
asserting that Glazier gave his own name to the lake he discovered,
which is an error, originated, probably, by some caviler, jealous that any
man should presume to make a discovery who was not officially author
ized to do so. One of Captain Glazier's companions, in an article to the
Saint Paul Pioneer Press, after describing tbe discovery of the new lake,
writes: " On its one promontory our party landed. After exploring its shores
and being marshaled in line, Captain Glazier made a few remarks
appropriate to the discovery of the True Source of the Father of Waters,
and then the question of a name lor the new lake arose. This heing left
for the Captain's companions to decide, Barrett Channing Paine of
Indianapolis, after alluding in warm terms to the time, money, and
energy expended by Captain Glazier in the expedition, proposed that it
be named Laks Glazier in his honor. The proposition was received
with applause and carried by acclamation."
Thus, we see. Captain Glazier did not " give his own name " to the lake.
He, on the contrary, we are told, suggested and urged that it should
retain its Indian appellation of Pokegama.
There is nothing to be found in Schoolcraft's narrative of his expe
dition to show that he penetrated south of Lake Itasca. He speaks of
an inlet to Itasca leading from a smaller lake to the south, but clearly
did not visit the smaller lake, and hence did not " discover " it. Nor was
it known to exist by Nicollet, who came after hun. The latter explorer
says tbat there are five creeks flowing into Itasca. Captain Glazier dis
covered six, the sixth originating in a lake (not a lakelet) a short distance
to the south of Itasca. This lake was not known to Nicollet. It lies nearly
due south of the southwestern arm of Itasca. He visited the others,
which are mere ponds in comparison, but missed the most important one,
probably owing to difliculty of access, its inlet to Lake Itasca being com
pletely bidden by the densest lake vegetation. Such an inlet would prob
ably not have been discovered by the Glazier party but for the informa
tion of the Indian guide, whose hunting-ground was in tbe immediate
neighborhood. The " Infant Mississippi " flows from this lake, through
which Captain Glazier and his companions forced their way under the
guidance of Chenowagesic. The lakelets, or ponds, shown on Nicollet's
map have nothing to do with the source of the river; and the map itself,
so far as Lake Itasca and its region are concerned, is altogether mislead-

APPENDIX. 433
ing. Itasca has three arras, or bays, not two, as shown on Nicollet's
map. An Old Geobraphisr.
George F. Cram of Chicago, well known throughout llie
countiy as a leading map and atlas publisher, writes, under
dale December 4, 1886:
" There is no question in my mind but that the Source of the Missis
sippi is not in Lake Itasca, as we have hitherto been taught, but in a
lake immediately to the south of it. The question of the discovery of
this lake, whicb will probably prove to be the Trae Source, is the subject
of a warm contest between Captam Glazier and some school-book pub
lishers who seem to have interests inimical to his. Wbatever name may
be conferred upon this lake will be determined after these gentlemen have
become reconciled, but the question of tbe source of the Mississippi I
think may be considered absolutely settled, and Lake Itasca must lose
its reputation for being the Head of that important stream."
A c irrespondent at Providence, Rhode Island, wrote to
the Boston Herald under date October, 1886, ii response to a
criticism by Russell Hinman of Cincinnati. Mr. Hinman was
at the time, I believe, connected with an educational publish
ing house in that city in the rapacity of geographer, and, in his
letter to the Boston Herald, very confidently denied that the
claim of Captain Glazier to have located the True Source of
the Mississippi had any foundation in fact. It will be under
stood by the intelligent reader that if the Glazier discovery
proved to be correct, it would necessitate an alteration in some
of the geographical publications of his flim. Hence, possibly,
the denial, whicii also occurred in a similar instance in New
York: To the Editor of tlie Boston Herald:
In a recent issue of your paper appears a letter signed "Russell
Hinman," to which my attention has only just been drawn. Mr. Hinman
writes in the authoritative style of an explorer who has a personal
knowledge ot the region to which he refers, namely, that around the
Headwaters ot tbe Mississippi. If, however, as I suspect, your corre
spondent is simply a " carpet knight," and gathered his information from
sources open to all of us, his tone of authority is, I think, somewhat
misplaced. I propose to meet the gentleman's second-hand informa
tion with that derived from direct parsonal knowledge of the subject
in debate, and to advance only that which I know to be fact.
For years Lake Itasca has been regarded both by geographers and
map makers, as well as by the public generally, as the Source of one of
the greatest rivers of the world— the Mississippi. . . .
No injustice is done to the memory of the two early explorers of the

434 APPENDIX.
Northwest, Schoolcraft and Nicollet, in the statement that, notwithstand
ing their many valuable additions to the geographical knowledge of
Northern Minnesota, their explorations did not extend to the discovery
of the True Source of tbe Mississippi . Schoolcraft believed it to be Lake
Itasca, and Nicollet conflrmed bim in this error. Glazier, in July, 1881,
started for this lake, and learned, upon diligent inquiry at the Gtovern-
ment agency at Leech Lake, tbat the dense forests that surround the
Source of the Father of Waters had never been traversed by white men
since tbe visit of Nicollet in 1834, or even by Indians at any time except
in winter, when lakes and rivers were frozen up and the whole surface of
the country covered with a mantle ot snow. He also learned through the
guides and interpreters who accompanied him tbat tbe Indians ot these
primeval forests did not regard Itasca as the Source of the river; but,
while rejecting it, differed among themselves as to what lake really waf*
the Fountain-bead.
Captain Glazier determined to thoroughly examine all this region
and to locate definitely and forever its True Source. In accordance with
this design, he pushed ou toward Lake Itasca, intending to make it a
starting point for further exploration. Reaching this point, he and his
little party camped on Schoolcraft Island, and, after a night's rest, he
directed operations toward the lakes and streams of the smTounding
country. He closely examined the shores of Lake Itasca for tributary
streams, flnding but three of any importance. Of these, by far the
largest came in at the southern end ot the lake, at a point where it is
nearly fllled with bulrushes and other thick vegetable growth.
Taking two canoes, Glazier ascended this stream, which, though
shallow, is rapid, yet so narrow in places that to jump across it would be
an easy task. Following its windings, he entered what appeared to be a
lakelet filled with rushes. Pushing through this, however, the canoes
flnally glided out upon tbe still surface of a beautiful lake, clear as crys
tal, with pebbly bottom, and shores covered with a thick growth of pine.
This lake is formed irregularly in the shape of a heart, having but one
marked promontory. Captain Glazier measured the length of the
lake, and found it to be over a mile and a half, and its width a Uttle
less. He found that this lake was supplied by three feeders, which rose
in sand hills a few miles from the lake, and, after a thorough examina
tion, became convinced that this beautiful sheet of water was in reality
the Source, or Primal Reservoir, of the mighty river. Without much dis
cussion, the members ot the party decided unanimously to name it Lake
Glazier, in his honor. This is a brief summary ot the proceedings ot
the Glazier expedition, so far as concerns the discovery.
Your correspondent states that the existence of such a tributary lake
to Lake Itasca has been known for more than half a century. I reply
tbat tbe lake indicated on Schoolcraft's map, published in 1834, and on
NicoUet's map, published in 1838, is not the lake referred to by Glazier,
or it would have been at once designated as the Source of the Mississippi.
If its existence was known, why was it not so designated? The lake is
not quite so long as Itasca, but is considerably wider and much
deeper, and the stream that unites it with the latter is perennial, and

APPENDIX. 425
wide enough and deep enough for the passage ot canoes. Surely, it this
water had been known to previous explorers, they would have pro
nounced it, as Glazier has done, the Source ot tbe Mississippi. Of the
three feeders to tbe Glazier lake, one enters it from the west, which has
its source in a lakelet named "Alice." This feeder is shown on the Land-
office map as entering Lake Itasca, wbich is an error. It enters the
Glazier lake at its northern extremity, and of this Captain Glazier fully
satisfled himself. Lake Alice lies farther to the south than Lake Glazier,
and it the stream issuing from it debouched in Itasca, it would be
the veritable source of the river. But it is simply a feeder of the Glazier
lake, and hence is entitled to less consideration.
It is claimed for Lake Glazier that it is the True Source of the Great
River, and that if it had been visited by the two eminent explorers who
preceded Willard Glazier, they would have so recognized and named it.
That they failed to do so is conclusive proof that they never saw it.
Explorer.
A leading paper of Minneapolis copied the following letter
addressed to a Philadelphia daily, in response to two of Cap
tain Glazier's opponents, in which the writer expounds his
views upon the Glazier claim, and criticises the critics:
Editor Philadelphia Times :
In an article in Science, of a recent date, Henry D. Harrower ot New
York expresses himself thus: " It is evident that Captain Glazier thinks
he was the flrst white man to visit Elk Lake."
Captain Glazier did visit the lake to which the above misnomer is
applied, and every other lake and pond in the vicinity ot Lake Itasca; and
claims to have been the first to locate a body of water to the south ot
Itasca, and tributary to the latter, which had not been recognized by any
geographical authority as the Source of the Mississippi prior to the
summer of 1881— the date of his visit. This lake is the one referred to by
Barrett Channing Paine, a member of the expedition, in the extract
given by Mr. Harrower in Science. . . Let me here ask, is it not
somewhat strange that many of the most prominent geographers and
map publishers of the country, who, it is to be presumed, have access to
the latest and most reliable authorities, should have accepted the Glazier
claim, and changed their maps in accordance therewith, it they had not,
after due investigation, been fully satisfled of its genuineness and
accuracy? This circumstance alone, in the opinion of many, is almost
sufficient to establish Captain Glazier's title, when we take into
consideration the fact that exactness is a &ine qua non in a modern
map. ... By actual measurement. Lake Glazier was found to be over
amile and a bait long and nearly as wide, with an average depth of torty-
flve feet, which is deeper than any part ot Itasca.
There appears to be on the part ot Mr. Harrower, and a previous cor
respondent of Science, Russell Hinman ot Cincinnati, tor some occult
reason, a disposition to belittle the undertaking of the Glazier party.

426 APPENDIX.
It was, it is true, simply a private expedition led by an American citizen
whose antecedents as a cavalry officer throughout the war for the
Union, and since as a popular writer, should, I venture to think, have
some weight in the balance where mere credibility is the question at
issue. He was not a mere theorist, but an actual explorer, and, as
such, his testimony is as worthy ot credit as that o£ any other explorer,
especially when confirmed bythe intelligent gentlemen who accompanied
hira. He was not authorized by the Government to proceed to the
Headwaters of the Mississippi; and the journey was certamly not made
in his own financial interest, as it cost him a considerable sum of
money to accomplish it. The expedition appears to have been organized
solely in the interest of correct knowledge upon a geographical question
of some importance. He traveled over a country which, according to
t^e best authorities he had access to, had never betore been trodden by
white men, namely, that botween Leech Lake and Lake Itasca. In doing
so, he discovered a chain of lakes and streams that was not known to
exist by any authority he consulted. These be named after distinguished
American soldiers and statesmen. Ultimately, he made his way to a
lake a short distance south of Itasca, of respectable proportions, which,
from all the information he could gather, had never before been known
or recognized as the Head of the Great River. It Messrs. Harrower and
Hinman had traveled over the same ground, they would be better quali
fled to pass judgment upon the account given by this intrepid explorer.
Before concluding, I may be permitted to state that according to
Schoolcraft the name "Elk Lake" is tbat by which Lake Itasca was
known to the Indians, and is still known to them, and, according to the
testimony of Captain Glazier's guides, tbis name bas never been applied
by them to any other lake in the vicinity. The lake located by Captain
Glazier as the True Source is known as Pokegama by the Chippewas,
meaning " The Place where the Waters Gather " ; and this lake is, with
out the shadow of a doubt, the Primal Reservoir of the mighty
Mississippi. Investiqatob.
In January, 1887, the Minneapolis Journal published the
subjoined letter in advocacy of Captain Glazier's claim:
Editor Minneapolis Journal:
The liberal spirit in whicb you have treated the controversy between
Captain Glazier and his critics on the subject of the Source of the
Mississippi, leads me to place at your disposal certain facts within my
knowledge, in connection with the mooted question.
On what ground do bis numerous supporters lay claim that Captain
Glazier discovered the True Source ot the Great River that divides our
continent? At the period of hi 5 visit to Lake Itasca and the surrounding
region, July, 1881, he made diligent inquiry upon every matter that bore
upon the question— whether Lake Itasca was the Source ot the Missis
sippi. He then proceeded to Itasca, via Leech Lake, and found a beauti
ful lake to the south of it, which, after a careful survey, he discovered
to be the undoubted Source of the mighty river, connected, as it was,

APPENDIX. 437
by a permanent stream with Lake Itasca. As such he located it, and
his name was given to it by the companions of his expedition.
Here let me observe, that while WilUam Morrison, in 1804, was prob
ably the flrst white man who saw Lake Itasca, no one has ever credited
him with the discovery of the Source of the Mississippi. In fact, he knew
nothing about its relation to that river. lie was not an explorer, but a
fur trader. Had he known that the Mississippi was an outlet of Itasca,
he, and not Schoolcraft, would have been recognized all these years as
the discoverer of that lake. On precisely the same ground, others may
have seen the lake to tbe south of Itasca betore Captain Glazier, but it
is fuUy admitted that no one who preceded him to that region had
assigned it its true character, nor properly placed its feeders. With refer
ence to the latter feature ot the subject in dispute, it has hitherto been
erroneously supposed that the lakelet to the southwest of Lake
Glazier, shown as Lake Alice on Glazier's large map, empties into the
southern extremity of Lake Itasca, instead of into the northwestern part
of Lake Glazier. This makes aH the difference in the world, and proves
that the Government surveyors, in runuing their parallels, failed to trace
this stream to its outlet. If it could be established that the creek from
Lake Alice debouched in Lake Itasca instead ot Lake Glazier, then Cap
tain Glazier and his friends would at once relinquish his claim to have
located the Primal Reservoir, or True Som'ce, of the Mississippi. But his
knowledge of this feeder is based upon actual investigation, and he
knows to a certainty tbat the lake beyond and above Itasca has at least
three feeders instead of two, as shown on the Land-office map. On this
ground alone he is entitled to the credit, not only of establishing the fact
of the existence ot a new, and hitherto unrecognized. Source of the Mis
sissippi, but of proving conclusively that an important feeder is the out
let ot a lakelet whicb has hitherto been misrepresented on the Govern
ment maps as faUing into Lake Itasca. . . Geographer.
Apropos of the controversy between Captain Glazier and
some members of the Minnesota Historical Society, the Saint
Paul Globe, the leading Democratic journal of Minnesota, has
the following paragraph:
" Captain Glazier makes a fair proposition for the settlement of the
controversy between himself and the State Historical Society. He pro
poses a commission of three members, one to be selected by the
Minnesota Historical Society, one by bimseE, and the third by tbe
American Geographical Society, to investigate the matter in dispute by
making a tour ot exploration to the upper waters ot the Mississippi, and
settle forever the quarrel about its Source. He further offers to defray
one-half of aU the expenses of the expedition."
The Chicago Times, in the subjoined notice of Captain
Glazier's last work, "Down the Great River," gives a succinct
but interesting account of the discovery of the True Source,

438 APPENDIX.
in which the writer evinces a thorough recognition and
appreciation of the Captain's labors:
" A most interesting portion of Captain Glazier's 'Down the Great
River ' is the beginning, where tbe author gives the details of an expedi
tion made in July, 1881, by himself, witb flve companions, when he
claims, with good grounds, to have fixed the actual Source of the
Great River. His attention was eaUed, in 1876, to the fact that,
though everybody knows the mouth of the stream, there was then much
uncertainty about its Source. In 1881, he found time to organize the
expedition named, and crossing the country to Itasca embarked in his
canoes, and pushed through that lake up a stream flowing Into it, and
came upon another considerable body of water, fed by three principal
streams, originating in springs at the foot ot a range ot hflls some mUes
farther on. This lake he flxed upon as the True Source, and since his
published accounts most of the geographers and map makers have
modifled their works according to his discoveries. ... He claims
to have been the first to discover and establish the fact that it is the
highest link in a chain in which Itasca is another; or, in other words, the
True Head of the river. The Indian name of the lake is Pokegama, and
this Captain Glazier says he would have retained, but was overruled by
the other members, who insisted on calling it Laee Glazier. . . ."
On February 9, 1887, the Slate Historical Society, at Saint
Paul, is reported to have met and passed certain resolutions,
after listening to tV.e reading of a paper by General James H.
Baker on the ' ' Source of the Mississippi."
It may be safely assumed that the gallant general knew
more of army tactics than he knew personally of the Source
of the Great River, and iibout as much of the latter as was
possessed by his otherwise intelligent audience, who were said
to havc unanimously (?) passed his cut-end dried resolutions.
It is not known that General Baker — atthe date of the meeting
called to suppress Captain Glazier — had ever been wilhin three
hundred miles of the Source of the river, and his inflated res
olutions had doubtless, in the absence of personal knowledge
of his subject, been based upon information derived from
writers whose acquaintance with the True Source was on a
level with his own and that of the Minnesota Historical
Society generally. This learned society innocently believed
at the tme that no body of water existed beyond Lake Ifasra
that was tributary to il— ergo, that Itasca was the Source of
the Mississippi.
The tone of the resolutions submitted to the m' etiug is
almost beneath criticism; indeed, they bristle with low scur-

APPENDIX. 439
rility. They were of a character to convince any moderately
informed person, flrst, that the chairman knew nothing of the
Source of the Mississippi, and secondly, that for some unknown
reason he was animated by an intense dislike of Captain
Glazier, two qualiflcations thai presumably fltted him for the
chairmanship of such a meeting. The dignity, elegance of
diction, and suavity of these resolutions were on a par with the
treatment Captain Glazier has generally met wilh from a few
members of this Historical Society, who affect to think and act
for it as a body.
At the meeting referred to, Captain Glazier's younger
brother was present, and after the reading of the resolutions
respectfully requested to be heard. He naturally objected to
the offensive epithets which had been heaped upon his brother,
but was peremptorily called to order by Chairman Baker, and
not permitted to proceed. A "corporal's guard" of the
audience passed the resolutions, while the feeling of the
majority was in marked sympathy with young Glazier, who
simply attempted to defend his brother from the foul
aspersions cast upon him by the self-satisfied clique on the
platform. An influential member of the society, from whom
one would have expected something more refined than the
language of a cow-boy, excitedly called him a liar! A dis
graceful scene ensued in the hall of this eminently learnM
society, whose motto, evidently, is not audi alteram pa/rtem.
The flrst of the resolutions read to the meeting was in these
words: " We herehy express, as the deliberate judgment of this society, that
the assertions and assumptions of said Glazier are baseless andfalse.^''
By this "society" must be understood some three or four
of its officious members who pose as the " society," and their
"deliberate judgment" meant simply a deiermination on
their part to suppress Captain Glazier, if possible, for no
better reason than that he was not a resident of Minnesota,
but of New York. What could a New Yorker know about
the Source of the Mississippi? They would have ao outsiders
come to their State and expose their ignorance to the world
by pretending to have discovered that the Source of their mag
nificent river was not in the sacred Itasca of the renowned

430 APPENDIX.
Schoolcraft. Right or wrong. Glazier must be silenced, and
restricted from promulgating his heresy.*
^'The assertions and assumptions of said Glazier are baseless
and false," quoth General Baker and his obsequious satellites.
This clause of the resolution, couched in the peculiar language
of a society whose supposed aim is to educate and reflne the
people of the Slate, is, however, a harmless thunderbolt, and
may be answered in two words, " Prove it!" I venture to
affirm from my own personal knowledge that " the assertions
and assumptions of said Glazier" were neither "baseless"
nor " false," but as well founded and true as that the author
of these resolutions was utterly incompetent to pass judgment
upon them from his personal ignorance of the question at
issue. Resolution No. II:
" That he is in no sense a discoverer or explorer.''''
This ungrammatical blow from a literary society of such
pretensions is amusing. " A discoverer or a explorer " might
tumble accidentally from the pen of an unfledged rustic raised
on the prairies, but a "learned" society should at least know
that a vowel is preceded by the article an. We excuse the
lapse, however, and generously attribute it to their haste to
inflict another telling stroke at their victim.
Captain Glazier's explorations, unlike those of his critics,
have extended beyond the limits of Saint Paul, and his discov
ery of the True Source of the Father of Waters has been rec
ognized by thousands of his intelligent countrymen, including
geographers, college faculties, teachers, encyclopsedists, and
map publishers. It may be confldently afflnned, moreover,
that he has "explored" more of the American continent than
any fifty members of the Minnesota Historical Society, inclu
sive of the pretentious gentlemen who denounced him in such
unmeasured terms. His work on the "Mississippi" alone
affords ample evidence of his exploratory labors and researches
in outlying sections of the country.
* From conversations I have since had with prominent residents ot
Saint Paul, I have obtained this knowledge of the "true inwardness"
or motive of the opposition, whicb, as I have already said, was, and
continues to be, confined to a very narrow circle of the M. H. S.

APPENDIX. 431

Resolution No. Ill:

" That the lake which Captain Glazier asserts is the True Source of
the Mississippi Biver is not such in reality, but that t'he real source of
the river is Lake Itasca and its tributaries.''^
Captain Glazier has never claimed that lhe real Source of
the river was not in a "tributary," but denies most emphat
ically that it is in Lake Itasca. The " tributary" in question
is a flne lake. above Iiasca, separated from the latter by a
lofty and extended ridge, and contributes its clear waters
through a perennial stream to Lake Iiasca and thence lo the
Mississippi. Lake Itasca has no better title to be considered
the Source of the river than Lake Bemidji, except that the
former is nearer the True Source tban the latter. The lake
above Iiasca, over a mile and a half long, nearly as wide, and
forty-five feel deep, which for the past ten years has been
known far and wide as Lake Glazibb, is claimed as the True
Head, the reservoir of its five tributary streams, and hence
named Pokegama bythe Indians, or "The Place where the
Waters Gather." This body of water, unknown unlil 1881 to
the Solons of the Historical Society, is claimed by Captain
Glazier and his host of supporters as tho True Source of the
Mississippi, in deflance of the perverse and senseless contention
of a few cavilers.
Resolution No. IV:
^^ Thai we feel amazed at the presumption and assurance displayed
by Captain Glazier in making his claim; in arrogantly heralding him
self to the world as a discoverer; in deceiving historical societies; in
publishing maps on which the lake in question is made to appear in a
wrong position and four times its proper size, and in persuading puh
lishers to place his name on their maps.^^
Presumption, assurance, arrogance, and deceit are here
flippantly cast in the teeth of a man whose only offense con
sisted in a modest attempt to settle a long-disputed geograph
ical question. He asked no subsidy of the Government or
State, but undertook a difflcult, nay arduous, journey through
a veritable terra incognita, entirely at his own cost and in the
interest of science. May I respectfully ask these gentlemen
who make him a target for Iheir vituperative shafts, where is
the presumption involved in such an act? Many thousands
think it was highly commendable in Glazier to put himself to

433 APPENDIX.
so much inconvenience in order to solve a problem in Ameri
can geography which would have solved itself in the course
" of time, when frontiersmen pushed farther forward into tlie
primitive wilderness that surrounds the Head of the rivei.
Was it presumption in Stanley to flnd Livingstone? Was it
presumption in Nicollet to follow and pass Schoolcraft in his
investigations? Is it not rather presumption and assurance for
a few members of this society to thrust themselves before the
public and condemn and denounce in such unseemly and
opprobrious terms a man who did his best to enlighten them
on a topic concerning which they were at the time in dense
ignorance? The "presumption and assurance of Captain
Glazier" have borne fruit. It is now known that the "great
scientist of the Cass expedition" was in error when he
coined the word Iiasca and conferred it upon the sheet of
water which he doubtless believed was the Source of the
Mississippi. People are no longer in ignorance or doubt as to
what is the True Source; that it lies to the south of Iiasca,
in a lake of no mean pretensions, which in point of beauty
and size compares most favorably with its neighbor, and is in
every way worthy of the distinction of standing at the
extreme head of our greatest river. The Minnesota Historical
Society may possess its soul in peace; Lake Glazier will sur
vive and be known as such generations after these brilliant
critics have been gathered lo their fathers, and their society
has become more enlightened and consequently less obstruct
ive and unmannerly.
The remaining portion of Resolution No. IV is simply
exaggerated nonsense, destitute of a grain of truth, and there
fore calls only for denial. Captain Glazier made a plain
announcement of fact to the public, without any flourish of
trumpets. He attempted to deceive no historical society, but
invited them to investigate for themselves. And here I will
add that no honest investigator could arrive at any other con
clusion than the one he had reached. The maps he has pub
lished are geographically correct — far more so than those of
Schoolcraft, Nicollet, or the spurious production of the agent
who followed Glazier, and imposed his alleged map of the
region upon the public under the segis of his employers of Ihe
Minnesota Historical Society. The "lake in question," as

00

LAKE GARi^lELD.
Located by First Glazier Expedition, July 17, 1881.

434 APPENDIX.
delineated on the Glazier map, is of correct relative size to
Lake Itasca, and is in its right topographical position in
reference to the latter lake. Finally, it is almost needless to
say that he has no such influence over publishers as that
ascribed to him, and if his name has found a place on their
maps it has been of their own volition without a word of
" persuasion" from him. The folly of such a supposition is
worthy of ils originators.
Resolution No. V:
" That the Legislature be requested to pass the Donnelly MU, which
fixes the names of the lakes and streams composing the Itasca source of
the Mississippi Biver. ''^
Resolution No. VI:
" Tliat we call upon the various geographical, historical, and other
learned societies to co-operate with us in repudiating Glazier^ s claim."
If the Minnesota Legislature would pass a bill removing
Lake Glazier from its envied position at the Head of the Mis
sissippi, it would doubtless satisfy the qualms of the Minne
sota Historical Society, and forever silence the troublesome
Glazier, who has disturbed their learned equanimity to such a
degree as to render an appeal to the Legislature necessary.
Nothing short of this could have any other effect than to
make the quasi-learned society of Saint Paul and their legisla
tors appear supremely ridiculous in the eyes of all intelligent
and fair-minded Americans.
The "various geographical, historical, and other learned
societies" called upon to co-operate, have, as I am informed,
with very few exceptions, shown great hesitation in compro
mising themselves by obeying the summons; the perverseness
exhibited by their Northwestern sister — in her dogged opposi
tion to Captain Glazier, and unreasoning adherence to Lake
Itasca — having given rise to a suspicion that, after all. Glazier
may be right and the Saint Paul egotists wrong. Anyhow, they
could not be expected to "co-operate" in denouncing the
gentleman as a "fraud" without flrst dispatching an explor
ing parly to the Headwaters on their own account, and hence
their hesitation to "cooperate." The Saint Paul wiseacres
have therefore been left to flght their battle alone; with what
result we shall probably learn further on.

APPENDIX. 435
The St. Paul Times, in 1887, expressed its opinion of the
caustic treatment Captain Glazier was receiving from certain
members of the Minnesota Historical Society. The editor
remarks: " The Minnesota State Historical Society has covered itself all over
with glory, and Captain Glazier with ignominy, and the people can now
take a rest so far as they are concerned about tbe rival claims of the
discoverers of the Source of the great Father of Waters. General
Baker seems to have considered it the society's duty to deal in wholesale
denunciation of Captain Glazier's claims, which are apparently as well
founded as those of any other discoverer. Schoolcraft was not the flrst
to see Itasca Lake. WiUiam Morrison, a pioneer Minnesotian, had a
cabin on the island in Itasca Lake twenty-eight years before School
craft visited that region. Yet no one has denied the latter the right to
name the lake and island. 'Wby not accord Glazier a similar right under
precisely similar circumstances? His claims are supported emphatically
by the overwhelming testimony of hundreds of the most distinguished
and competent authorities in the Northwest. Glazier did undoubtedly
expend much time and treasure in investigating, not only the Source ot
the Mississippi, but the history of the entire river from its Source to the
Gulf. He could have no object, nor could he gain anything by garbling
statements when it was as easy for him to publish the truth. As a
writer, the sale of whose works depended permanently on the accuracy
of their information, he had every incentive to take the greatest pains
in getting at the facts. The leading map publishers have indorsed his
claims, and do so in away that leaves no doubt that they placed impUcit
confidence in him as a careful and trustworthy geographer and historian.
Eand, McNally & Co., Gteorge T. Oram, A. S. Barnes & Co., and others
ot the leading publishing houses who have a heavy personal interest in
investigating the correctness of everything they publish, tacitly
acknowledge Captain Glazier's claims by accepting his views, and repro
ducing them in their books and maps. The press, pulpit, bar, and
Legislature of the State of Minnesota givei unqualified assent, through
many of their leading members, to the position of Captain Glazier.
And the Minnesota State Historical Society assumes toward these gen
tlemen a very offensive attitude when they stigmatize, by a string ot
violent and abusive resolutions, his natural and apparently just claims
to be considered the first who published his behef that Lake Glazier is
the True Source ot the Mississippi. The society has acted Uke a pack of
inteUeotual hobble-de-hoys, and not in the sedate, cautious, and dignified
fashion we naturaUy expect of them. Even if Glazier's claims were as
absurd as the society says they are, there is no excuse for turning our
Historical Society into an agency for the dissemination of abusive epithets.
. . . From aU we can glean, we are decidedly of opinion that the rash
conduct ot a few members has placed the society in a veiy ridiculous
position, and if they have raised a laugh against themselves they have
themselves to blame. The frantic appeals to the world to stand by the
Minnesota Historical Society in this matter, as they are embraced in

436 APPENDIX.
their resolutions, are too absurd for anything. It must mortify any
sensible member of the society to read tbe resolutions pubhshed in the
Globe and Pioneer Press. Tiiey are decidedly Billingsgatish, and bear
on their face a spirit of hostility against Captain Glazier which could
scarcely be evoked by a mere love of truth. . . . On the whole, we
prefer to accept Lake Glazier as the narae for the body of water which
he asserts is the True Source of the Mississippi. ..."
The Saint Paul Dispatch, a leading and widely circulated
daily of the capital of Minnesota, has published, since 1881,
many editorials upon this subject. I reproduce one that
appeared in the issue of March 37, 1887:
"A question has been raised by some members of our Historical
Society as to whether Lake Itasca or Lake Glazier is the True Source of
the Mississippi. Captain Glazier makes a claim to having located the lake
which bears his name as the Primal Reservoir, or True Head, of the
river. Upon his announcement to that effect, the world abandoned its
previous belief that Itasca was the source, and accepted the Glazier lake
as the true fountain of the mighty stream. Later the claim was
advanced by certain members of our Historical Society that Glazier was
not the discoverer, and was not entitled to any credit. It was said that
others had been there prior to his visit and had ' discovered ' the lake.
But it was not claimed that any one had ever announced it as the Source
of the Mississippi, and the best proof of this is found in the assertion of
the State Historical Society that it is not the Source. It would seem,
therefore, tbat betore Captain Glazier is denounced as a 'fraud,' it
would be weU to settle the question as to who is right about the actual
Source— he or the Historical Society. If Itasca is the Source, then Gla
zier's ' discovery ' is unimportant and not worth wasting words about.
But it the lake fixed upon by Glazier is the Source, then undoubtedly he
is entitled to great credit for discovering a fact of which even our His
torical Society seems to be still ignorant. . . ."
A correspondent at Buffalo writes to a Northern New
York journal in April, 1887. The Syracuse Standard
had criticised the Captain's claim to discovery at the Head
waters of the Mississippi in the scurrilous style of the Minne
sota Historical Society, and the New York paper copied the
Standard article, adding its own comments in opposition to
Glazie.'s announced discovery. The Buffalo correspondent
replied as follows:
"In the issue of March ;iJ3d of your usuaUy well-informed paper, you
have given prominent Insertion to an article copied from the Syracuse
Standard, in which the writer commented unfavorably on Captain Wil
lard Glazier's claim. As an old acquaintance of the Captain, I venture to
take up the gauntlet in bJs bebiilf ; and first, I wiU observe tbat ¦"£ have

APPEKDIX. 43'?
here an iUustration of the truth of the proverb, A prophet is not with
out honor save in his own country.' While honors have been showered
on WiUard Glazier by the press, geographers, and scientists throughout
the land, in his 'own country 'he is sneered at as an 'adventurer.'
This, however, only indirectly, and probably from inadvertence. He is
remembered, not unkindly, by his former classmates of your Wesleyan
Seminary, some of whom have recognized him as conferring honor on
their alma mater by his stirring military career and popular writings,
and are his good friends to this day.
"The Syracuse Standard, from which you copied the scurrilous
article, is inconsistent, lo say the least. In 1883, it gave its readers a very
favorable notice of Captain Glazier's book, ' Battles for the Union,' then
just pubUshed. It spoke of him as an author ' wielding his pen with sur
prising faculty,' and his descriptions 'abounding with Ufe and interest';
adding, ' the work is fuU of the momentous incidents of a struggle, the
memory of which our brave soldiers love to dweU upon,' etc.
'• Glazier was a soldier under Custer and KUpatrick, and successfully
took part in the battles of Cedar Mountain, Manassas, Fredericksburg,
Brandy Station, Gettysburg, and other engagements, and was eventually
taken prisoner and made the acquaintance of the interior of Libby
Prison. He flnaUy made his escape and reached the Federal Unes. In
his first book, written shortly atter the close of the war, we get many
glimpses of life in that weU-known prison, and numerous pathetic and
humorous incidents that feU under his notice. He then wrote ' Three
Years in the Federal Cavalry,' in defense of that arm of the service.
Then followed 'Battles for the Union ' and ' Heroes of Three Wars,' and
later a work ou the ' Peculiarities of American Cities,' all of which have
won glowing eulogies from the press from Maine to CaUfornia. Lastly,
he is about to give to his countrymen a work on ' The VaUey of the
Mississippi,' having traversed the entire length of the Great Eiver in a
canoe for purposes of observation — a distance of over 3,000 miles, and
occupying a period of 117 days. Possessed of energy and daring. Glazier,
before this, had crossed the continent on horseback from Boston to San
Francisco, thus proving himself a thorough American in being able to do
any tiling and everything equally well ; ' rushing, ' as Shakespeare observes,
' where angels feared to tread. ' His ' superficial works ' met the demand
of the pubUc and have been sold by hundreds of thousands. This fact
is usually considered a test of the excellence rather than the superficiaUty
of a book.
' ' In the article quoted from the inconsistent Syracuse paper, reference
is made to an investigation by the Minnesota Historical Society of Cap
tain Glazier's claim to have located the True Source of the Mississippi
Eiver. The investigation here referred to was confined to one individual,
who wrote an abusive pamphlet on the subject; and the society, com
posed for the most part of farmers and persons who knew nothing of, or
had ever visited, the Headwaters of the Great Eiver, accepted it. The
individual in question took exception to Captain Glazier's giving names
to sundry lakes and streams he discovered between Leech Lake and Lake
Itasca, which had never before been named or probably ever seen by white

438 APPENDIX.
men. These lakes and streams he named after his cavalry comrades, and
the old explorers, De Soto, Marquette, La SaUe, Hennepin, and Joliet,
and their successors, Beltrami, Schoolcraft, and Nicollet. He also gave
the names of Garfield, Sheridan, Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton, Gregg,
Custer, and Kilpatrick to other bodies of water; and in three cases was
guilty of the serious offense of giving the names of his wife and daughter
and that of a deceased sister to some smaU lakes, as an affectionate
memento of his visit. This is the worst that can be said of him.
" With regard to the location of the Source ot the Great Eiver, Captain
Glazier is supported by a host of competent judges, including the Gov
ernor of Minnesota and hundreds of representative men of the State;
wbUe the fact of the discovery is disputed by only a few persons—
scarcely one of whom has ever been within two hundred mUes of the
Source. . . The lake located by Captain Glazier as the Primal Eeser-
voir, or True Source, of the Mississippi, is now recognized as such by
almost every geographer and map publisher in the country, and by many
in Europe." The opposition to Captain Glazier by the Minnesota Histor
ical Society, located at Saint Paul, partook of an extremely per
sonal, not to say malignant type, about the beginning of the year
1887. It is probably difflcult to sympathize wilh a new truth
which dispels the illusion of a lifetime. It should be repeated,
however, that this opposition was conflned to a very few indi
viduals. These gentlemen were reluctant to surrender the
honor that had clung for flfty years to the Itasca of School
craft. They were under the protection of the society, and
resolved, by virtue of their position, to suppress the new theory
that would displace their idol; and perhaps there is little
wonder that prejudice and conservatism were averse to ils
adoption. The unheard-of proposition that Lake Itasca was
not the Source of the Mississippi was a heresy that must be met,
and its propounder silenced. The subjoined article on the
subject of the opposition opportunely appeared in the Saint
Paul Dispatch, in the month of February, 1887, and doubtless
expressed the views of many citizens besides those of the
writer:Editor Saint Paul Dispatch:
The Minnesota Historical Society, it would seem, has been over-hasty
in its efforts to influence pubUc opinion against the claim of Captain
Glazier. Their report, as read last night, was a document hardly calcu
lated to inspire confldence in thinking people regarding the erudition of
what ought to be an institution seeking the truth of history and settling
mooted geographical questions. This may have arisen from the peculiar
characteristics of the gentleman who was chairman of the committee to

APPENDIX. 439
whom was delegated the work of preparing the report. However, the
society should have ignored it, but, having adopted the same, have laid
themselves open to the responsibUity of it, it not to the ridicule of sister
societies throughout the world. It is not meet nor dignifled that a body
assuming to be "leamed "should lumber up a report of that character —
which must be looked to as au authority on this subject in future time—
with discourteous language, possibly libelous, and which seemed taken
entire from a, pamphlet issued from a, rival pubMshing house, and
adopted by the committee. It would seem, if the committee had found,
in their opinion, no just foundation for Captain Glazier's claims, that our
society should have reported in language becoming the society, and with
some consideration due that gentleman. . . . They have greatly
jowered their standard, and would seem to aspire to be considered a com
pany of gossipy old women. It was also unfortunate that the society
refused to listen to Captain Glazier's brother, who bad accompanied him
to the Headwaters ofthe Great Eiver, and desired to speak before tbem.
Can it be possible that a society, presumed to be above bias or prejudice,
should refuse to hear both sides, preferring to make an ex parte report?
Is this the position a society claiming public confldence should assume?
... A society seeking the truth of history should be content to bear a
cross in its mission, or surrender to more patient hands. Captain Glazier
was entitled to some consideration from the society as well as the pam
phlet of the book publisher referred to. Fair play is dear to every Amer
ican heart. If he was not entitled to any consideration in the opinion of
the savants, as to his alleged discovery at the Head of the Mississippi, he
was at least entitled to a patient hearing from the society of our State,
but a small portion of the great country for which he fought and suf
fered a long and weary imprisonment. It would seem a disgrace to our
State that the Minnesota Historical Society has assumed the motto,
" Strike, and then hear me." Is the Minnesota Historical Society a scrt
ot mutual admiration society, making up reports on quite important
questions from pamphlets of rival pubUshing houses, without hearing
both sides; and giving to the world profound conclusions based on
ex parte information and their own prejudices? Should their one-sided
report be a foreclosure of the matter? A Citizen oi- St. Paul.
The Saint Paul Dispatch has believed in and supported the
Glazier side of the controversy from its inception; and it will
not be considered surprising, therefore, that I flnd myself
more than once quoting from its pungent aud ably written
articles. In reply to a sheet published in Sauk Centre, Minne
sota, whose editor took the side of the Historical Society, and
rejected Captain Glazier's claim, the Dispatch expressed itself
as follows: " We don't say that Itasca is or is not the Source of the Mississippi.
The Historical Society says it is; Glazier says it isn't, and describes

440 APPENDIX.
another lake which he claims to be the Source. Between the energetic
and enterprising Glazier and some of the fossils of the Historical Society
we are incUned, however, to believe in Glazier; but before expressing
our final opinion as to whether he is right or wrong, we want another
exploration made. It the Historical Society and its puny allies, Uke the
Sauk Centre Tribune, are so flrm in the belief that Itasca is the Source,
they should accept Glazier's proposition for au investigation. By not
doing so, however, they lay themselves open to the suspicion that they
are afraid that Glazier will prove what he says, and thereby leave them
open to the charge of being a sublime lot of ignoramuses."
The following article, by one friendly to Captain Glazier,
is taken from the Minneapolis Evening Journal of December,
188S, and is inserted here to show the animus of some of the
Captain's "critics and cavilers," -whofe perseverance and indus
try would have been more commendable if exerted in the
cause of truth:
Editor Minneapolis Journal:
The vexed question of the True Source ot the Father of
Waters has again come to the front, and candidates for fame or
notoriety are propounding their theories, backed by pretended facts,
in the vain effort to dispossess Captain WUlard Glazier of tbe honor
conferred upon him by public opinion in 1881 ; in which year, as you are
aware, he published to the world tbe results ot his journey to the Head
waters of the Mississippi. A paragraph relating to the question of the
True Source of the Great Eiver has lately appeared in some papers,
dated St. Paul, December 1st, drawing attention to what the paragrapher
is pleased to denominate, "An instructive and valuable article, with a
carefully drawn and accurate map, contributed to tbe Pioneer Press.^''
I would ask you to kindly permit me a few words on this subject, which
may be considered of interest to some of your readers. Captain Glazier
claims to have located the Fountain-head ot the Mississippi, and the
geographers, educational publishers, and map makers of the country
recognize his claim, while hundreds of the most prominent men of
Minnesota, and elsewhere, have borne written testimony to the truth of
his published statements. Having been identified with the Glaaier expe
dition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi, I unhesitatingly assert, despite
a thousand cavilers like the correspondent of the Pioneer Press, that
no other water exists tbat can, with any show of reason or plausibiUty,
be caUed the Source of the Mississippi, but the body ot water wbich now
bears tbe name ot Lake Glazier. The "carefuUy drawn and accurate
map," to which allusion is made in the paragraph referred to, is a mean
ingless jumble, utterly beyond comprehension, except in that it confirms
the Gl:izier account by placing its delineator's alleged source in a relative
position to La':e Glazier that, in itself, refutes the theory of the pond
being the Source ot the river. The artic'.e in the Pioneer Press is
evasive, and shows the animus ot the writer, whose aim is clearly a desire
to propagate an untruth, and by so doing deprive a worthy man ot the

APPENDIX. 441
credit accorded him by his fellow-countrymen. Captain Glazier may not
have been the flrst to visit the lake to the south of, and above, Itasca,
but was admittedly the first to locate it deflnitely, and establish its
geographical importance in its relation to the Mississippi, and for this
reason is entitled to the same consideration that was accorded to his
predecessor, Schoolcraft, who claimed the credit of having " discovered "
Lake Itasca, which he probably knew had previously been visited by
WUliam Morrison, the fur trader, in 1804. Parties who have visited the
region since 1S81 are very confused and unsatisfactory in their reports,
no two of them agreeing as to the Primal Reservoir; but they make one
thing clear, and t;:at is: That the large heart-shaped lake to tbe south
of Itasca — wider and deeper than the latter — is the only body of water
worthy of recognition as the Fountain-head of the Great Eiver; aU the
other ponds and lakelets referred to by them being Uttle more than
mud-puddles and bogs, with no outlets, and altogether undeserving of
the slightest consideration. The "true source" of the writer to the
Pioneer Press is one of these frog-ponds, and his so-caUed "accurate
map " is accurate only in this, that it places Lake Glazier where nature
placed it, namely, at the Head of the Mississippi. Vekitas Caput.
The Worcester Spy published in December, 1888, the fol
lowing letter from au Eastern correspondent, who appears to
have taken an interest in the question of the True Source of
the Mississippi:
Editor Worcester Spy:
In an editorial in the Spy of last week, something is said of ' ' Lake
Glazier," and also ot the flnding of another lake which, it is claimed,
supercedes the claim of Captain Glazier in 1881 in regard to the True
Source of the Mississippi. A Mr. Brower, in the St. Paul Pioneer Press,
it appears, is the champion of this latest source. In his article in tbe
Press he claims that an insigniflcant lake, or pond, west ot Lake Glazier,
is the true source. In this statement, his map, also pubUshed, contra
dicts him, as in the map it is shown that his "true source" is considerably
farther north than Lake Glazier, and hence can not be the fountain-
head of the Great Eiver. This is not tbe flrst time some ot these smaU
ponds have been taken to be the source of the river. These ponds were
not unknown to Captain Glazier at the time he made his exploration,
and put forth his claim. AU the lakes, ponds, and feeders in that region
were visited, and the result was that the beautiful lake called by the
Indians Pokegama was selected. In regard to this. Captain Glazier says,
"I simply claim to have estabUshed the fact that there is a flne lake
above and beyond Itasca, wider and deeper than that lake, with wood
land shores, with three constantly flowing streams for its feeders, and
in every way worthy of the position it occupies as the Primal Eeservoir,
or the True Source, of the Father of Waters."
No other lake iu the region beyond Itasca can compare in any sense
with the above-mentioned lake. This fact is known and admitted by

443 APPENDIX.
the Indians born and reared in that locality, as I have it from them.
General Baker's attempt to crush out the claim of Captain Glazier was a
failure. Mr. Brower and his later claim can not stand before the facts
in regard to ihe merits of Lake Glazier as the True Source ot the Missis
sippi. An Early Pioneer of Minnesota.
In January, 1889, an efibrt was made by a certain educa
tional publishing house in New York to discredit Captain
Glazier with the public by denying his just claim lo have dis
covered and located the source of the Mississippi. In reply, the
following letter appeared in the Nein England Home Journal,
from the pen of a gentleman well known in that section as a
wri er on history and various branches of science, who is also
a member of several learned societies in this country and
Europe:
Editor Some Journal:
A feeble attempt has lately been made to prove that the claim of
Captain Willard Glazier to bave discovered the true source of the Mis
sissippi, rests upon no other foundation than that of " literary piracy and
fraud." If this were true, concerned with him in this attempt to foist
upon the public this fraudulent claim, we find a long list of hitherto
reputable names of men who flU high positiojis in the civil and educa
tional world. Prominent among the number in Minnesota are the Gov
ernor, two ex-Governors, five Mayors, six editors, and six superintendents
of schools. In the country at large, eighteen educational publishers,
fourteen map publishers, together with the indorsement ot four colleges
and several leading institutions of learning. His claim also receives the
sanction of several educators and map pubUshers iu other countries.
The above are only a few of the indorsements received by the Captain,
yet we are told that his claim is aU moonshine; that they who have sanc
tioned all this, know not what they are talking about! C.
A leading Saint Paul daily, of March 4, 1889, treats in an
editorial of a certain phase of the opposition to Captain
Glazier. Persons residing in Saint Paul, hearing of the pro
ceedings of the Historical Society, or rather of a few of its
officious members, denounced the latter as most unfair to the
Captain, and unbecoming the society. Knowing nothing of
the locality of the Headwaters from personal inspection, their
attempts to impose their views upon the public could be
characterized as nothing less than rash and presumptuous, if
not worse :
" • The State Historical Society and its estimable secretary
appear to have reached a ttage of excitement, in the consideration of

APPENDIX. 443
Captain Glazier's claims, which far exceeds that of any other individual
or interest concerned. Two years ago the society passed resolutions
denouncing Captain Glazier as an ' adventurer, ' and of couree denying to
him the credit of discovering the True Source of the Mississippi, and
thereafter went to the Legislature, virtuaUy asking that its resolutions be
spread out on the statute books ot tbe State in the form ot a legal
enactment. They selected, strangely enough, as the instrument of the
undertaking, Ignatius DonneUy, who, as a discoverer, historian, and
Uterary oracle, would, we fear, run serious risk of faring quite as badly
as Glazier at the hands ot that erudite estabUshment, should the occa
sion c' 'm=,nd an expression of its opinion regarding him. They faUed,
however, in the undertaking, and now, two years later, propose to repeat
their efforts.
" Ve do not assume the championship ot Captain Gla^er. That is not
at all necessary. We do not pretend to say whether the lake wbich now
appears on the State map as the True Source of the Mississippi lliver
should or should not be caUed Lake Glazier. But we would Uke to know
how the State Historical Society, or any other body, expects to determine
the True Source of tbe Mississippi, or the true discoverer of that Source,
by the passage of resolutions or the enactment of legislation. The
students of this question, either now or hereafter, can not be expected
to care a rap what the State Legislature thought, or what the Historical
Society made its members beUeve it thought, on the subject. This kind
of legislation is about on a par with certain mediaeval practices which
involved the barbarous sacriflce of human lite in order to establish the
correctness of their opinions as to the hereafter."
In a review of Captain Glazier's notable work on the
"Mississippi," in which the author describes in detail his
journey to the Headwaters, and discovery of the Source of the
Great River, the Popular Science Monthly for April, 1889,
refers to his claim in the following words:
" In this book. Captain Glazier relates the story in f uU, of his journey
in 1881, by the aid ot an Indian guide, ' across country,' from Brainerd,
Minnesota, to Lake Glazier, south of Lake Itasca, and his determination
of it as the real Source of the Mississippi Eiver. The journey was made
flrst to Leech Lake, whioh is on one of the main afttuents of the Upper
Mississippi — and is the seat of an Indian agency — and thence up a chain
of lakes and portages, through a territory of which very Uttle, if any
thing, was definitely known, to Itasca Lake ; around Itasca Lake to a
stream flowing into it; up that stream to ' Lake Glazier,' and around
that lake untU the author and explorer was satisfled that nothing
important was likely to be found above it. . . . As determined by
the author. Lake Glazier is 1,685 feet above the level of the ocean, and
is 3, 184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. . . . Captain Glaziei-'s claims
to be the discoverer of the True Source of the Mississippi have been
disputed by some persons who have aflirmed that the lake which has

444 APPENDIX.
been named after him was not unknown to Schoolcraft, and that it has
been visited by huntei-s. The Captain replies to these objectors by
aiflrming that no matter how many persons may have known of the
¦ existence of that body ot water, he was the fli'st to explore it, to gauge
its dimensions, and to determine that it is the Ultimate Source of the
Mississippi; and he cites a large number of declarations of geographers,
and ot men versed in the history, geography, and traditions of Minne
sota, which support his claims in this shape. He represents Glazier
Lake, though its superficial area is less, as being wider and deeper, and
containing more water than Itasca Lake. The story of the explorer's
journey is very pleasantly narrated. ..."
The Philadelphia Evening Telegraph, a journal read largely
by scholars and scientists, gives its sanction lo the Glazier
discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi in the follow
ing extract from an editorial:
" .... It appears quite clear that Lake Itasca never possessed
any title to the honor conferred upon it by Schoolcraft iu 1832 of giving
birth to our magnificent river. One reason alone is given to account for
our ignorance of its True Source, namely, it was outside the usual
track of the fur traders, and in a region scarcely ever visited by Indians
or white men. Schoolcraft had pronounced Itasca to be the source,
and n ) one up to the date of Captain Glazier's explorations felt
suflciently interested in the matter to investigate or dispute its
claim. , . .
"It was long suspected that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head
higher up than Lake Itasca, and in July, 1881, an expedition led by Cap
tain "Willard Glazier discovered a lake to the south ot Itasca— hitherto
unrecognized in our geographies— a mUe and a half in diameter, and
falling into the latter by a permanent stream — the Infant Mississippi.
Beyond this there appears to be no water connected with the river,
and hence Lake Glazier is now the recognized source ot the Missis
sippi. . . "
If any fair-minded and unprejudiced critic of the Glazier
claim reads the foregoing extracts, let il be understood that
these shafts of the exponents of public opinion are not aimed
at him, but at those only who have assumed the prerogative
of censorship, for the reason that by some accident they flnd
themselves in the position of leadership in a society claiming
to be "learned."
The discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi was
made over len years ago, and published to the world, in a
plainly written narrative, by the discoverer, a man entitled to
be believed, and to be treated with some consideration. The
discovery is now Virtually recognized and accepted by every

APPENDIX. 445
geographer and scientist in the country who has given atten
tion to the subject; but continues to be denied by a few
pseudo-critics, associated with the Minnesota Historical Society
at Saint Paul, who persistently stultify themselves, and
endeavor to mislead the publio by solemnly asserting that
Lake Itasca is the Source, in defiance of all evidence to the
contrary; and this for no better reason than because School
craft, sixty years ago, so believed and asserted !
It must not be forgotten by the reader, in estimating the
value of this opposition, that these same cavilers have never
personally risked a visit ti the source of lhe river, and hence
their egregious assumption of authority in determining an
important question in geography has, to say the least, placed
them in a very equivocal light before thecountry; for evidence
of which I have simply to refer the reader to some of the pre
ceding extracts.

0.
COEEBSPON'DENCB RELATING TO EIEST EXPEDITION.
The intelligent reader of this Appendix, it is hoped, wUl
feel in some degree interested in what I respectfully submit for
his consideration, in explanation and justiflcation of the facts
involved in this discussion. From a large mass of correspond
ence now lying before me, I have selected a few letters bear
ing upon these facts, which go lo show how wide-spread is
the popular belief that the position taken by Captain Glazier
is unassailable. It is founded upon the personal observation
and most painstaking investigation of a man of no ordinary
intelligence, who has staked his reputation as a weU-known
author on the positive assertion that Lake Itasca possesses no
claim wliatever io be considered the Source of our greatest river,
a truth so palpable and patent to the sense of sight as lo be
beyond the sphere of doubt to any rational mind.
The correspondence here reproduced will show that, in the
belief of lhe writers. Glazier located the True Source of the
Mississippi River in a beautiful sheet of water beyond Itasca,
and emptying into the latter through a permanent outlet; fur
ther, that despite the unreasoning opposition of a few critics, the
press and the public have already yielded him the credit of
setting at rest a long-discussed geographical question.
Barrett Channing Paine of Indianapolis, formerly a
reporter on the staff of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, addressed
the following letter to that journal, under date August four
teenth, 1881. Mr. Paine accompanied Captain Glazier to the
Source of the Mississippi on his First Expedition, and descended
with him, in his canoe, throughout the entire lensth of the river
to the Gulf. While at the Headwaters, and during the descent
of the river, Mr. Paine addressed long accounts of the journey
and discovery to the Pioneer Press, as well as to many of
Iho leading papers of cities on the banks of the Mississippi.
In the whole of this correspondence, he expressed his flrm
(44W

APPENDIX. 447
personal belief in the truth of Captain Glazier's contention
that the Source of the Mississippi is not in Lake Itasca, but in
the fine lake immediately beyond it.
After giving a detailed account of the journey from the
shore of Itasca Lake, lie proceeds:
'¦'¦Editor Saint Paul Pioneer Press:
. . . "At last our longing eyes rested upon the waters of Itasca.
Soon after, we were floating on its placid bosom, and after a pull of about
two m.iles reached Schoolcraft Island. This island is about three acres
in extent, and so covered with underbrush that we could with difficulty
clear a place for a camp. The island has but few trees of any size, the
mo t prominent of which is the pine, and on one of these we blazed our
names and the date of our arrival. Lake Itasca is not at all the sort of
lake I had expected to see, being a rather large and fine body of water,
with an extreme length of about five miles and au average breadth of
nearly a mile. It has three arms of nearly equal size, and the island on
which we camped is situated near the point where they come together.
The lake was fixed upon as the Som'ce of the Mississippi by Schoolcraft
in 1832, and until now its title has been undisputed. Inquiries instituted
by Captain Glazier, however, developed the fact that though few among
the Indians and ti-appers who had visited that section believed Itasca to
be the Source, there was so-.e controversy as to whether another lake
situated beyond Itasca, and pouring its waters into it, had not the strong
est claim to that distinction. We were fortunate in having among our
guides an Indian, named CJhenowagesic, 'w^ho had hunted and trapped for
years on all the surrounding lakes, and had even for a number of years
had his wigwam on Schoolcraft Island, and planted corn on that historic
spot. He stated that a lake beyond Itasca had always been considered by
hira, and other Indians thoroughly familiar with the locahty, as the True
Source of the Father of "Waters.
"Acting on this information, we started for the upper, or southern,
end of the lake early next moming, finding, when we reached it, that it
terminated in bulrushes and what seemed to be a swamp. Our guide,
however, took us through the rushes, and we found that a small but
swift stream entered here, up which, with difficulty, we pushed our
canoes. This stream flows from one of the prettiest lakes we h:id seen
on our trip. The shores are high and covered with verdure, and the
lake, which is nearly round— its regularity being broken by but one point-
has a greatest diameter of nearly two m'les. Into this lake flow three
principal streams, which rise in sand hiUs at distances ranging from one
to two miles from, the lake.
"Having previously estimated the volume of water flowing into
Itasca by aU the streams contributing to it, and found the one from this
lake much in excess of that of others, we held a, little meeting on the
promontory, and unanimously voted to call the new-found Source Lake
Glazier, in honor of the leader of our party.
"In regard to this lake being the True Source or primal Reservoir of

448 APPENDIX.
the Mississippi I have but little doubt, though I am not quite positive as
to the rules followed in determining the sora'ce of a. river. It seems
customary to select a lake as the source, when practicable, and for that
reason this honor was given to Itasca, though Schoolcraft must have
surmised that other streams of more or less magnitude flowed into
Itasca. In regard to this other lake to the south, he must have been in
entire ignorance, owing perhaps to the rushes and dense lalce growths at
the mouth of the creek which led to it. . . . ^'
I produce another of Mr. Paine's descriptive letters, printed
in the Saint Louis Globe-Democrat, August, 1881. Mr. Paine,
a man of rare intelligence, it will be seen, wus thoroughly
convinced in his own mind, from personal investigation,
that the lake to the south of Itasca was the Source which had
been so long sought in vain:
"Editor Saint Louis Globe-Democrat:
"Lake Itasca for many years has been regarded both by geographical
societies and map makers, as well as by the public generally, as the Soin-ce
of the grandest of rivers— the mighty Mississippi. But geographical
knowledge, like all other knowledge, is of little consequence if it is not
progressive, and in its history we have seen the firmly rooted beliefs of
centuries torn up and tossed aside by the explorations and reasoning ot
Intrepid travelers, who, respecting truth and facts more than mere
theory, have accepted nothing without proof, merely because others
have so accepted it. This is the ground occupied by Captain Willard
Glazier in his explorations in search of the Source of the Mississippi.
"Starting for the Headwaters of this great river in July last, he
leamed that the dense forests which surround the Source of the Father
of Waters were rarely penetrated by white men, or even by Indians, at
any time except in winter, when lakes and rivers were frozen up, and
the whole surface of the country covered with snow.
"He also heard, through the interpreter and Indian guides who
accompanied him, that the aboriginal inhabitants of these primeval for
ests did not regard Itasca as the Source; but spoke of another lake,
broad and beautiful, which lay beyond Itasca, and poured its clear water
into the accepted Source through a small stream. Captain G.azier deter
mined to thoroughly examine all this region, and settle deflnitely and
forever the problem of the True Source of the Mississippi.
"Acting in accordance with this resolution, he pushed on toward
Itasca, intending to make it a starting-point for further exploration.
Reaching this objective point after innumerable hardships, we camped
on Schoolcraft Island, and after a night^s rest he directed operations
toward the lakes and streams of the surrounding country. We closely
examined the shores of Lake Itasca for tributary streams, finding but
three of any importance. Of these the one by far the largest came in at
the extreme head of the laJie, at a point where it is nearly filled with
bulrushes.

APPENDIX. 449
"Taking two canoes. Captain Glazier ascended this stream, which,
though shallow, is rapid. Following its windings, we entered what
appeared to be a lake filled with reeds and rushes. Pushing through
this barrier, however, the canoes soon ghded out upon the still surface
of a beautiful lake, clear as crystal, with pebbly bottom, and its shores
covered with a thick growth of pine. This lake is formed in the shape of
a heart, having but one marked promontory. Its greatest length is
about two miles and its width a'cout a mile and a half.
"We found that this fine lake was fed by at least three rivulets,
which rose in sand hiUs a few miles from the lake; and thoroughly
convinced that this body of water was the True Source of the Missis
sippi, our leader proclaimed it as such. Without waiting for much
discussion, the party decided unanimously to caU. it Lake Glazier, in
his honor. Expressing his thanks for this mark of their appreciation.
Captain Glazier said that though he firmly believed the lake to be the
Source of the river, he should relax none of his vigilance on the trip
through the unknown part of the great stream, but would carefully
examine all water flowing into the Mississippi, in order to be positive as
to its origin."
The succeeding letter is one of many that appeared in 1881,
the period of the First Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters
of the Great River, Every leading paper from Saint Paul to
New Orleans contained correspondence relating to the discov
ery of the " True Source," aud it would require a volume to
reproduce all or even one-half of these communications to the
press by parties interested in the question: Saint Louis, Missouri,
September 19, 1881.
Editor Saint Lo%tis Post-Dispatch:
Lake Itasca has been considered to be the source of the Mississippi
for so many years that any man who disputes its title to that honor is
looked upon as a radical, and one bent upon upsetting all one's precon
ceived geographical ideas. Still it seems to be a fact that Lake Itasca is
not the Source, and has no greater claim to being called so than Lake
Cass or Lake Bemidji or Lake Pepin. This was discovered by Captain
Willard Glazier, who headed an expedition last July, and started for the
Headwaters of the Mississippi. Reaching Lake Itasca after a journey of
great difficulty, he camped on Schoolcraft Island, and thoroughly exam
ined the lakes and streams which contribute their waters to the Great
lliver. The various theories and stories heard from his Indian guides
were considered as clews, and faithfully followed up until their tnith or
falsity was ascertained. Success at length crowned his labors, for a
beautiful lake was found beyond Itasca, and in the direct line of the course
of the river, which proved to be the farthest water -the extreme Head of
our grand Mississippi. This lake is said to be about two miles in diame
ter, with clear water and beautiful surroundings, fed by several springs,
29

450 APPEISTDIX.
and one of the prettiest of its size in Minnesota. The stream which
flows from it into Itasca is very rapid, but narrow. . . .
HiSTORICUS.
The following extract is fromaletter received bythe present
writer, in May, 1884, from Paul Beaulieu, interpreter to the
White Earth Indian Agency, Minnesota. Beaulieu is a very
intelligent French-Canadian. He has lived all his life wilhin
seventy niiles of the Head of the Mississippi. His letter was
in answer to an inquiry as to the views of the people of that
section concerning Captain Glazier's discovery. He writes:
White Eakth Indian Agsenoy, Minnesota.
I would respectfully state that according to the ideas of the people
of this section for scores of years past, in alluding to Lake Itasca, which
is known only as Elk Lake, or Omushkos, by the Indians, it was never
considered by them as the Head or Source of the Father of Running
Waters, or May-see-see-bee. I have received the map you sent me show
ing the route of exploration of Captam Glazier, 1881, and am well
acquainted with his chief guide, Chenowagesic, who has made the sec
tion of country explored by Captain Glazier his home for many years,
and who has at length proved the truth of his often-repeated assertion,
when maps were shown him, that a lake beyond Itasca would in tirae
change an important feature of those maps, and that Lake Itasca can
not maintain its claim to being the Fountain-head of Ke-chee-see-be, or
the Great River. The map, as outlined by Captain Glazier's guide,
Chenowagesic, is correct, and it is plain to us, who know the lay of this
whole country (I mean by the word us the Chippewa tribe in particular),
that Lake Glazier is located at the right place, and is the highest lake
on the great Mississippi, and therefore the Source of that river.
Respectfully yours, Paul Beaulieu.
A correspondent writes to the Boston Times, August 29,
1886, as follows:
Editor Boston Times:
A glance at the map of the United States will show that the great
river of North America— the Mississippi — has its Som'ce in Northern Min
nesota, flowing at flrst in a northerly direction, then suddenly darting off
at right angles to the eastward, and then again continuing its course in
a southerly direction until it flnally mingles its flood with the Gulf of
Mexico— a distance from its source of 3,184 miles. It is of the origin of
this great river I purpose to speak here. Can a river have two sources?
Now it is a debated point at the present day whether Lake Itasca or
Lake Glazier is the Fountain-head of the Father of Waters. The for
mer lake, as everybody knows, was discovered by Schoolcraft in 1833, the
latter by Glazier in 1881. Lake Glazier lies in latitude about 47°, and as
the i-iver flows at flrst to the northward, it is necessarily beyond tbe

APPEKDIX. 451
source assigned to it by Schoolcraft. Hence it follows, that Lake Gla
zier, if the premises are correct, is the Primal Reservoir of the Missis
sippi, always granting that the aUeged discovery is sufficiently authen
ticated. As evidence in his favor, Captain Glazier states that in July
1881, he fitted out an Expedition, composed of himself and three or four
others, accompanied by an interpreter and Indian guides, and with the
necessary canoes and suppUes started from Saint Paul for Northern
Minnesota, with the intention of reaching Lake Itasca, and setting at
rest the vexed question of its claim to be the Source of the Mississippi.
According to the accounts published at the time in almost every news
paper, from the extreme north to the extreme south of the Great River,
and copied into many of the leading papers of the Eastern and Middle
States, he not only reached Itasca, but soon discovered that the famed
lake of Schoolcraft was not the Source ; that, in fact, another lake, nearly
as large as Itasca, existed farther up— that is, farther south; that this
latter was a beautiful sheet of water, nestling among the pines, known
to the Indians as Pokegama; and, moreover, that it discharged itself by
a respectable stream— the Infant Mississippi— into Itasca. One of Cap
tain Glazier''s Indian guides, rejoicing in the euphemistic name of Che
nowagesic, had previously told hini of the existence of this lake, and its
connection with Itasca, and, therefore, with the Mississippi, and piloted
him and his party into it. This Indian, who is said to have been
middle-aged, very intelligent, and very faithful and reUable, told him, fur
ther, that no white man had ever b3cn seen there; his own hunting-
ground was in the immediate vicinity; and the Captain and his associ
ates could readily believe that the locality had probably never before
been visited by civilized men, for the very good reason that it is weU^-nigh
inaccessible. After surveying the new lake and its feeders, the former
of which he found nearly circular, and nearly two miles in diameter, and
his companions having formally christened it after their leader, the Cap
tain and his party descended the stream connecting it with Itasca in
their canoes, and passing through the latter lake, started on the long
voyage, they had originaUy contemplated as part of their plans, down
the Great River to the Gulf of Mexico. After one himdred and thirty-
eight days of paddling, and many hairbreadth escapes, they made the
Gulf. But the news of the discovery of the new Source of the Missis
sippi had reached New Orleans before them, as it had reached Saint Louis
before their arrival at that city on their way down. The news was con
sidered of sufficient importance by the New Orleans Academy of Sciences
to waiTant their calUng a special meeting of the members, and inviting
Captain Glazier to lay before them the details of his discovery. Fully
satisfied as to the validity of his claim, highly complimentary resolutions
were passed, recognizing the discovery. On his retum journey to Saint
Louis, Captain Glazier was officiaUy invited to lay before the members
of the Missouri Historical Society some account of his explorations in
Northern Minnesota, and again the fact was duly indorsed, by resolution,
that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi. Since that date-
January, 1882— other scientific bodies have, after due investigation, given
their recognition to the genuineness pf the discovery. The maps pf

453 APPENDIX.
some of the leading map publishers have been corrected, and Lake
Itasca no longer figures on them as the source of the Great Eiver,
Lake Glazier having taken its place. The school geographies of several
publishers likewise give Lake Glazier as the Source.
All this evidence seems conclusive of the authenticity and credibil
ity of the claim of Captain WUlard Glazier, albeit we are reluctant to
give up the good old poetic name of Itasca. The world moves, however,
and we must move with it. Glazier's name, hke those of De Soto, Mar
quette, La Salle, Hennepin, and others, will, we venture to think, be
indissolubly associated, for all time, with our grand old river.
Good-by, Itasca 1 Thy beautiful name loses none of its sweetness,
though shorn of its glory. May-see-see-bee.
The following is copy of a letter sent to General J. H.
Baker of the Minnesota Historical Society, Saint Paul. No
reply was vouchsafed, or tlie slightest notice taken of it.
Glazier, although for many years a member in good standing
of the G. A. R., evidently made a mistake in approaching so
important a personage — albeit a comrade — with an offer lo
submit facts of which he was personally cognizant. The
letter, unacknowledged, I here insert : Syracuse, New York,
January 17, 1887.
General J. H. Baker, Saint Paul, Minnesota.
Dear Sir and Comrade: I have just learned through my brother,
now m your city, that you are a member of the Minnesota Historical
Society and take considerable interest in the controversy concerning the
True Source of the Mississippi, It occurs to me that you might possibly
like to be put in possession of a few facts relative to the mooted ques
tion. If I am right in this supposition, I shall be pleased to place at
your disposal such matter as I have at my command, and in the mean
time, remain. Yours in F. C. and L.,
Willard Glazier.
I subjoin a letter to Governor A. R. McGill of Minnesota.
The intention of this Appendix is to give as nearly as possible
a concise and truthful account of the controversy that fol
lowed upon the announcement of the discovery of the True
Source of the Mississippi. A letter to the Governor was
thought advisable at a time when the Historical Society's paid
agents were publishing coarse and calumnious articles against
Captain Glazier in a fruitless attempt to discredit him before
the public. It is needless lo add that in this case a courteous
reply was received by the writer.

APPEIiTDIX. 453
Camden, New Jersey,
February 18, 1887.
To Governor A. R. McGill, Saint Paul, Minnesota.
Dear Sir: Permit me to address you on the subject of Captain
Willard Glazier^^s claim to have located the True Source of the Missis
sippi River. It is the general beUef that the opposition to this claim
originated with a firm of school-book and map publishers in New York
City, whose single motive was to advertise themselves and their wares,
and this firm appears to have secured an advocate in a very active
member of your State Historical Society, named Baker. This man has
not scrupled in his attempts to discredit, and, if possible, dishonor my
friend by an energetic and interested opposition to his claim to have
beeu the first white mau to locate the True Source of the Mississippi.
And right here I wiU say, that from a loag and most intimate
acquaintance with Captain WiUard Glazier, I know him to be eminently
precise, cautious, exact, and conscientious iu everything he says and
does, and would be the last man in the world to advance a theory that he
knew to be groundless, or in the slightest degree open to question.
His title to respectful consideration is founded, in a measure, on
his honorable military record during the war of the Rebellion, and the
authorship of several popular works— mostly relating to military affairs.
He is scrupulously tmthf ul, and his moral character, in every respect,
beyond impeachment.
In July, 1881, I assisted him in organizing his expedition to the
Headwaters of the Mississippi; and although I did not accompany him
beyond Saint Paul, am thoroughly posted on every step of his progress
to Lake Itasca and the lake above it, which stands at the head of the
Great lliver and is its True Source.
Mr. Baker, who appears to be running the Minnesota Historical
Society, has greatly belittled himself in the estimation of every one out
side the society by the malevolent course he is adopting. Captain
Glazier has offered to pay one-half the expenses of a commission of com
petent engineers and surveyors to proceed to the lake he has located as
the True Source, and to abide by their decision on the subject. Can any
thing be fairer or more Uberal than this, or afford stronger proof of his
honest faith in his discovery, and therefore of his title to be accredited
with it? I have the honor to be, very respectfully,
Youi' obedient servant, Pearce Giles.
About the commencement of the year 1887, while at Syra
cuse, New York, Captain Glazier was advised by friends in
Saint Paul that scurrilous and libelous articles were appearing
in tbe local press concerning bim, having reference to his
claim to have located the Source of the Mississippi. News
papers reached him containing letters from his critics of
the Historical Society, and the writers, not satisfied with
denying his claim, attempted to injure him in public opinion

454 APPENDIX.
by denouncing him as "a fraud" and "an adventurer."
He thereupon started for Saint Paul, and on his arrival in that
city hastily wrote the subjoined letter. In this, no word
unbecoming a gentleman appeared. He confined himself to
placing the grounds of his claim before the reader, and made
very little reference to the defamatory language of his tra
ducers. Wilh reference to the proposition to the Historical Society,
in the last paragraph of his letter, il is significant that no
notice was taken of it, and if one may judge from the news
paper comment of the time, the learned society was afraid, if
they accepted his liberal offer, that the "ndvenlurer" might
establish his claim and so place them in an uudignifled predica
ment before the public. Merchants' Hotel,
SiiNT Paul, Minnesota,
February 12, 1887.
Editor Saint Paul Dispatch: I have come to Minnesota in 1887 to
claim tbe credit which was very generally accorded me by press and
people in 1881. I do not ask for anything which is not in justice mine,
and if I am tmable to win my case without descending to personalities
and mud throwing, 1 prefer to lose it. I was taught iu the schools of
the East that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississippi River, and
when I reached this State in 1881, ascertained that its title was still
unquestioned by white men. To quote from my recent letter to the
Pioneer Press: "Those who have been my most persistent critics in
this controversy opened the battle with the assertion that Lake Itasca
was the undoubted Source of the Mississippi, and that, at the time of my
expedition, there was nothing of an exploratory character in Northern
Minnesota . " How well they have been able to justify their position will
be developed as we advance.
For many years prior to 1881, I had been of the opinion that Lake
Itasca occupied an erroneous position in our geography. In fact, I had
become satisfied, through conversations with straggling Chippewas in
the Northwest, that the red man's ideal river did not rise in the lake
described by his white brother, but that there were other lakes and
streams beyond tbat lake, and some day the tnith of their statements
would be verified.
Thoroughly convinced that there was yet a field for exploration in
Northern Minnesota, I resolved, in 1876, to attempt a settlement of the
vexed question concerning the Source of the Mississippi, at an early day.
Finding the opportunity I sought, in 1881, 1 came to Saint Paul in June of
that year, accompamed by Pearce Giles of Camden, New Jersey. Here
I was Joined by my brother George of Chicago, and Barrett Channing
Paine of the Pioneer Press.

APPENDIX. 455
Having completed arrangements, I left Saint Paul on the morning
of July fourth, with Brainerd as our immediate objective. Short halts
were made at Minneapolis, Monticello, Saint Cloud, and Little Falls, on
our way up the river. Brainerd was reached July seventh. This town is
situated near the boundary of the Chippewa Indian Reservation, and is
the nearest place of consequence to Lake Itasca. Here I again halted to
further inform myself concerning the topography of the country; to
decide upon the most feasible route to our destination, and to provide
such extra supplies of rations, clothing, and general outfit as might be
considered essential to the success of our undertaking. After consulting
my maps, I concluded that while Schoolcraft and NicoUet had found
Itasca by going up the river through Lakes Winnebegoshish, Cass, and
Bemidji, the most direct course would be by way of Leech Lake and
Kabekanka River.
A careful study of the route to Leech Lake, with a few valuable
suggestions from Warren Leland, one of the oldest residents of Brainerd,
led us to seek conveyance to the former place over what is known in
Northern Minnesota as the Government Road.
While at the Leech Lake Indian Agency, we obtained valuable
information concerning the peculiar charactenstics of the Indians on
the Chippewa Reservation. At this place, it was our good fortune to
meet the Post Missionary, Rev. Edwin Benedict; Major A. C. Ruffee, the
Indian Agent; Paul BeauUeu, the veteran Government Interpreter;
Flatmouth, head chief of the Chippewas; White Cloud, chief of the
Mississippis, and several others, well known at the Agency. Through
conversations with these parties, I learned that pioneers of that region
were of the opinion that the lake located by Schoolcraft was the Source of
the Mississippi; but the Indians invariably claimed that the Great River
had its Origin in a beautiful lake above, and beyond, Itasca. Paul Beau
lieu, who is perhaps the best authority in Minnesota on the subject, hav
ing Uved for more than sixty years within its borders, said, in substance,
that Chenowagesic, the most inteUigent Chippewa of his acquaintance,
had made the Itasca region his home for many years, and that he had
always asserted, when maps were shown him, that a lake above Itasca
would in time change a feature of those maps, and confirm his statement
that " Lake Itasca could not longer maintain its claim to being the fount
ain-head of Ke-chee-see-bee, 'or Great River, which is named May-see-
see-be by the Chippewas."
Three days were spent at Leech Lake, during which time we
secured a:p interpreter, Indian guides, and birch-bark canoes. Every
thing beiug in order, we launched our canoes on the morning of July
seventeenth, wishing, as previously explained, to approach Itasca by a
different route from that employed by Schoolcraft and NicoUet, who
went up the Mississippi from Lake Winnebegoshish. I crossed Leech
Lake, and ascended the Kabekanka River, thence in a direct westerly
course, through twenty-one lakes, alternated by as many portages,
reaching Itasca between two and three o'clock ou the afternoon of the
twenty-first. Th© work of coasting Itasca for its feeders was begun at an early

(466^

APPENDIX. 457
hour on the moming of the twenty-second. We found the outlets of six
small streams, two having well-defined mouths, and four filtering into
the lake through bogs. The upper end of the southwestern arm of
Itasca is heavily margined with reeds and rushes, and it was not without
considerable difficulty that we forced our way through this barrier into
the larger of the two open streams which enter at this point. This
stream, at its mouth, is seven feet wide and three feet deep. Slow and
tortuous progress of between two and three hundred yards, brought us
to a blockade of logs and shaUow water. Determined to fioat in my
canoe upon the surface of the lake toward which we were paddling, I
directed the guides to remove the obstructions, and continued to urge
the canoes rapidly forward, although opposed by a strong and con
stantly increasing current. On pulling and pushing our way through a
network of rushes, similar to that encountered on leaving Itasca, the
cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view.
This lake, the Chippewa name of which is Pokegama, is about a
mile and a half in its greatest diameter, and would be nearly an oval in
form but for a single promontory at its southern extremity, which
extends its shores into the lake so as to give it in outline the appearance
of a heart. Its principal feeders are three creeks, two of which enter
on the right and left of the headland, and have their origin in springs
at the foot of sand hills from two to three miles distant. The third
stream is but little more than a mUe in length, and is the outlet of a
small lake situated to the southwestward.
Assuming that the statements of my party are clearly indisputable
concerning the lake which I claim as the Source, it must be admitted:
I. That Lake Itasca can not longer be maintained as the Fountain-
head, for the reason that it is the custom, agreeably to the definition of
geographers, to fix upon the remotest water, and a lake if possible, as
the source of a river.
n. That Schoolcraft could not have seen the lake located by me,
else he would have pronounced it the Source, placed it upon his map,
and described it as such.
HI. Nicollet, who followed Schoolcraft, could not have been aware
of its existence, as he gives it no place upon his map, or description in
the narrative of his expedition.
rv. The Government survey is in error in showing that the outlet of
the lakelet to the southwest of my lake debouches in Lake Itasca.
Whatever the verdict, and regardless of the name appUed to it, the
lake to the south of Itasca was certainly not known to the white inhabit
ants of Northern Minnesota prior to 1881. Lake Itasca was still recog
nized as the Origin of the river, was placed upon the maps, and taught
as such in aU the schools of the country.
I simply claim to have established the fact that there is a beautiful
lake above and beyond Itasca, wider aud deeper than that lake, with
woodland shores, with three constantly flowing streams for its feeders,
and in every way worthy of the position ib occupies as the Primal Reser
voir—the True Source of the Father of Waters.
In conclusion, it was with no intent to deprive Schoolcraft, Nicollet,

458 APPEN-DIX.
or any other explorer who preceded me of their weU-eamed laurels, that
I announced the True Source of the Mississippi. Having entered the lake
to the south of Itasca and definitely located its feeders, I became satisfied
that it was the Primal Beservolr of the Great River, and so announced it
to the geographical world. This is the head and front of my offending.
The Minnesota Historical Society has now re-affirmed that Lake
Itasca is the Fountain-head. If this is true, then "Lake Glazier" is of
little more importance than any other of tbe ten thousand lakes of
Minnesota. If I am right and the Historical Society is wrong, then I
submit, in the name of justice, am I not at least entitled to considerate
treatment? So confldent am I ot the rightfulness of my claim, that I make this
proposition to the Minnesota Historical Society, that this question may
be settled for all time: That the gentleman who introduced bill "No.
;iOT," withdraw the same and substitute one of the following tenor: That
the Legislature commission three persons, one to be selected by the
Governor, one by the American Geographical Society, and one by myself,
who shall be empowered to employ competent surveyors to visit the
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and report their decision on this matter to
the next session of the Legislature of this State, for the passage of a bill
formulated on their investigations and findings.
If this is done I will, as I have before offered to do, deposit in
some National bank of Saint Paul suffleient funds to cover one-half the
expense of the expedition, provided the Minnesota Historical Society, or
any person or persons, will furnish the other half. Can I offer a fairer
proposition? If not accepted, my case is prejudged. If accepted, let the
State of Minnesota and the geographical world abide the issue, as I am
willing to do. Willard Glazier.
Rev. Johu C. Crane o£ West Millbury, Massachusetts, a
writer and recognized authority in tlie East upon matters per
taining to general history, science, and geography, expressed
his views on the claim of Captain Glazier in the following
letter to the Saint Paul Dispatch: West Millbury,
„,., „ December 10, 1888.
Editor Samt Paul Dispatch:
My attention has been called to the communication of J. V. Brower,
published in a Saint Paul paper recently. All the letters in oppo
sition to the claim of Captain Glazier show so much spite and venom
against the Captain that I can not refrain from lending him a hand,
although I think him well able to take care of himself. In the map
published with the Brower article in the Pioneer Press, he tries to
prove that the lake south of Itasca, which is found to be wider and
deeper than the lake of Schoolcraft, is not the True Source of tbe Missis
sippi. I make the statement that what he says is the Source is nothing
but au insignificant lakelet or pond compared with the Glazier lake.
A glance at the map of that region will convince any one in possession

APPEH-DIXo 459
of an unprejudiced mind, which is the largest lake in that region beyond
Itasca with requisite feeders and all the requirements of the Source of a
river. A puddle among the sand hills, dribbUng its tribute along, can
not dispute the right of Lake Glazier. Mr. Brower claims that a pond
to the west of the Glazier lake is the Source. But iu this his own map
contradicts him, as on that map his Source and the stream entering the
west arm of Itasca would be much farther to the north than Lake Gla
zier, and therefore can not be the Source. I have no hesitation in saying
that Captain Glazier was cognizant of all that Mr. Brower claims. I
know the region well, and don't beheve that an Indian can be found in
thatlocalitybut_willsay that he believes Lake Glazier to be the Primal
Eeservoir, and therefore the Head of the Father of Waters. With one
fell swoop of Brewer's pen, oue lake of Nicollet disappears; the Govern
ment surveyors of that region have clanked their chains and stuck their
pins in the wrong place. It was reserved for a party of hunters, "out
for a day's shooting," to discover in a frog-pond the fountain-head of
the mightiest river in our land. Schoolcraft says that " the True Source
of a river is a point at the remotest distance from its mouth," but con
nected with this statement are other points to be considered. The pro
portions of the lakes claimed as the Source, and the depth of water, are
also to be taken into account. Shall we ignore Pokegama, or Lako Gla
zier, two miles long, a mile and a half wide, aud forty-five feet deep, for
an insignificant pond? Thirty years ago the writer was a resident of
Minnesota, and even then the idea was advanced that Itasca was not the
Source of the Great Eiver. For a long time after Captain Glazier
announced the lake named after him by his companions as the True
Source, no one disputed the truthfulness of bis claim. Few men have
had so many ovations from individuals and societies as he. Jealous
and interested parties since that time have sought to stamp out his
claim and the author of it. K these gentlemen are sincere in their
desire to settle this much-discussed question as to the True Source of the
river, why do they not accept Captain Glazier's proposition? He has
offered to pay one-half the cost of an expedition, fully equipped, that
shall settle the question on its merits, if his opponents wiU pay the
other half. The fact is they dare not do it. Time has only strengthened
Captain Glazier in the behef that his lake is the True Source of the
Mississippi. In that belief the writer coincides.
One word and I have done. Mr. Brower, in his article in the Pioneer
Press, alludes to the " so-caUed Captain Willard Glazier." If holding a
captain's commission, bearing the broad seal of the great Empire State,
in one of the companies of a daring cavalry regiment, and tasting the
horrors of nearly all the rebel prisons in the late war does not entitle a
man to be called " Captain," then I should like to be informed what
qualifications are necessary. J. C. Crane.
Bearing upon the subject of the True Source of the
Great River, the foUowing from a " Student " of the question,
resident in the East, will be found apt and well reasoned:

460 APPBKDIX. Eochester, February 20, 1887.
Editor Saint Paul Dispatch :
Your paper of the 18th inst. has jnst come under my notice. You
say that tbe State Historical Society proposes to sit down on Captain
Willard Glazier's claim to have located the True Source of the Missis
sippi. From information that has reached me, I am of the opinion that
not many intelligent citizens of Minnesota will be found to "sit down"
with them. One thing is certain: that Itasca is not the Source. No one
in his senses will now affirm that it is; and if the lake to the south of it,
and fall.ng into it, is not the Source, where is it to be found? The lakelet
to the southwest— marked " AUce " on the Glazier map — which empties
into Lake Glazier, is simply a feeder of the newly located Source, and,
according to the Glazier survey, is erroneously marked on the Land-
office map as falUng into Lake Itasca. This little fact makes all the dif
ference in the world.
Captain Glazier's opponents will find it uphill work to convince
sensible men that the True Source of the Mississippi is not in the lake in
which he has placed it. If this lake had been seen before he visited it in
1881, he was certainly the flrst man, as it appears to me, to announce it to
the world as the True Source, and should, in common fairness, have the
credit that attaches to a first discovery. Student.
An open letter from Captain Willard Glazier to the Minne
sota Historical Society, published widely in Minnesota and the
Sta'es bordering upon the Mississippi: Philadelphia, March 30, 1889.
To the President and Members of the Minn,esota Historical Society.
Gentlemen: I have just noticed in the Saint Paul papei-s that the
question of the Source of the Great Eiver is again occupying your atten
tion, although I had long since concluded that the several expeditions
which have followed mine of 1881 had sufflciently enUghtened your hon
orable body upon the mooted topic to enable you to make satisfactory
deductions as to the veracity and validity of my published statements.
It is now nearly eight years since I published the fact that Lake Itasca
was not the Source of the Mississippi, but that another lake to tbe south
of it was the Fountain-head of the river. During the interval that has
elapsed since 1881, 1 have been criticised by a few persons, some of whom
claim to have visited the region, and by others who have never been within
hundreds of miles of it. At this late date, however, nearly eight years
after my announcement, and notwithstanding the silly antagonism of a
few opponents, I am as firmly convinced as I was on the twenty second
day of July, 1881, that the heart-shaped lake to the south of It.^sca, and
falhng into the latter, is the True Source of the Mississippi, and that
Lake Itasca, therefore, has no title whatever to this distinction. I have
been betore the world for many years, and am well known to thousands
of my feUow-countrymen, not one of whom, I venture to say, would
accuse me of ever stating what I did not beUeve to be true. Yet these

APPENDIX. 461
would-be critics and detractors have not scrupled to charge me with falsi
fying, and almost every other crime short of murder in the first degree,
because I have had the temerity to assert, and re-assert, the truth upon
a subject about which I am thoroughly cognizant, and of which I have
no more doubt than I have of the existence of the Mississippi itself, or
of my own identity.
What possible excuse there can be for visiting that region at a time
when the locahty is covered with ice and snow, is to me and many others
incomprehensible. Permit me to express the honest conviction that per
sonal consideration for two or three persons in the great State of Minne
sota appears to have had more infiuence in the dehberations of your
society, than a, desire to estabUsh a geographical truth. Those who
have been recently commissioned to report on the topography of the
countrj'" at the Headwaters of the Mississippi, are apparently visiting
that section with the aim, and probably the determination, of disproving
me, the quibbUng of their letters to the press showing most clearly that
they are gone in search of anything but geographical facts. If it reaUy
was the opinion of your learned body that another expedition was nec
essaiy to remove all doubt upon the subject, why dispatch an individual
on this mission who is weU known to you to be personally inimical to me.
Why not have appointed some one to represent my side of the question,
or at least some one known to be unprejudiced and disinterested? Can
it be possible that you have forgotten my offer made two years ago,
when this question was under discussion before the Legislature? BeUev
ing, then, that it was your wish to see fair play, and that you desired to
go on record as advocates of the truth, I respectfuUy submitted: " That
the Legislature commission three persons, one to be selected by the Gov
emor, one by the American Geographical Society, and one by myself,
who were to be empowered to employ competent surveyors, visit the
region, and report their decision to the next Legislature of yom: State,
with a view to the passage of a biU on the subject. K this is done," I
added, "I wUl deposit in some National bank of Saint Paul sufficient
funds to cover one-half the expense of the expedition, provided the
Minnesota Historical Society, or any person or persons, wiU guarantee
the other half. If not accepted, my case is prejudged. If accepted, let
the State of Minnesota and the geographical world abide the issue, as I
amwilUng to do." This proposition was submitted February 12, 1887,
and I felt much gratified at the time that my proffer to your society was
received with general approval by the press throughout the country, and
that your local papers were especially pleased, and pronounced it just
and fair. But notwithstanding this, and my wiUingness to meet you
half-way in any movement tending to a just and impartial decision upon
the merits of the question, the impression at Saint Paul seemed to be,
that, having been drawn into an error, you would employ no one to repre
sent you who was not committed or pledged to your side of the contro
versy. Is this a fair and proper course to pursue? Would it not inspire
greater confidence in your candor and impartiaUty to have the investi
gation made by entirely disinterested persons, on whose report f uU reU-
^ce could be placed? I feel sure that a majority of the n^embers of

463 APPENDIX.
your society have a sufficient sense of honor to realize that it is veiy
unfair to employ two persons to investigate and report upon a s..bject
which has engaged the attention of half a dozen others, one of the for
mer having, as is weU known, prejudged the case, and avowed himself a
bitter opponent to me — although I have never, to my knowledge, seen
the man or held any communication witb him. I am confident you wiU
candidly admit that nothing can be more inequitable than to commission
a man to conflrm himself and disprove his adversary, without giving the
latter even a hearing. . The apparent anxiety of certain members of
your society would seem to indicate that there is considerable uncer
tainty in your camp as to the late reports of J. V. Brower and others
upon whom you have relied for a correct statement of facts, and I shaU
not be surprised, if in the end you arrive at the conclusion that their
veracious reports are very contradictory, and therefore altogether
untrustworthy. If Mr. Brewer's flrst statement of his views, published
in the Pioneer Press, was an honest presentation of the case, what
ground can there be now for sending him out a second time to make
another report, in which, of course, he will not fail to verify himself.
If my memory serves me, it was the argument of your society, in
188T, tbat Lake Itasca was tbe source of the Mississippi, and that nothing
beyond this lake was worthy of consideration. Now that I have, in the
opinion of thousands, established to the contrary, you do not, I believe,
assume that Itasca is the Primal Eeservoir; but, in order to throw dis
credit upon my announcement of 1881, you dispatch a delegation of one
or two individuals to that quarter, for the well-understood purpose of
giving prominence to two or three ponds and rivulets which have a doubt
ful existence during the summer months. This conduct, gentlemen, is
unworthy ot an institution claiming the title of " Historical Society," and
I have faith to believe tbat the great majority of the intelUgent and
fair-minded citizens of Minnesota, in and out of your society, will be
disposed to place the credit of locating the True Source of the Mississippi
where it properly belongs.
Permit me to inquire again, what excuse you have for your latest
expedition? Have you not already accepted the statements of those who
foUowed me? Why not accept their maps as conclusive, instead of send
ing them back to re-investigate their flrst Investigation. Has not this
flimsy farce been carried far enough? Have you sent J. V. Brower back
to the scene of his late operations for the reason that his maps confirm
my statements? If so, I fear eternity itself will flnd you only at the
threshold of your researches.
I conclude by re-asserting that the lake to the south of Itasca, and
connected therewith by a perennial stream, is the Primal Eeservoir or
True Som-ce of the Mississippi; that it was not so considered prior to the
visit of my expedition, in 1881, and that my party was the flrst to locate
its feeders con-ectly, and discover its true relation to the Great Eiver.
I have the honor to be. Very respectfully yours,
WiLL.uiD Glazier.
The Minneapolis Spectator is the leading literary journal of

APPENDIX. 463
that city, and contains, among other valuable matter, com
ments on current topics. The following contribution is from
a lady who appears to have given some attention to the subject;
315 Market Street,
Camden, New Jersey, March 10, 1889.
Editor Minneapolis Spectator:
From time to time, in taking up a newspaper, I have noticed various
comments and opinions concerning the location of the True Source of
the Mississippi, and on Captain Glazier's claim to the discovery Which
removes old Itasca from the prominent position she has held so long, to
give place to a more potent, although smaUer, rival. Apropos of this
subject, I have read with great interest a recent letter in the Saint Paul
Dispatch, setting forth very convincingly, to my mind, the vaUdity of
Captain Glazier's claims, and making his position unassailable, except
by those in whom a certain animus is not wanting, as in the case of Mr.
Fletcher Williams, Secretary of the Historical Society, Saint Paul, whose
weak and spasmodic attacks caU forth my indignation.
The only concern I have in the matter springs from a love of fair
play, which is an instinct, I suppose, common to most of us; and the
interest ot the rising generation, the "youag idea," which may be erro
neously led to " shoot " in the wrong direction, when in three-fourths of
the schools the pupils are taught that Itasca must give place to Glazier,
and in the other fourth, not that there is no Lake Glazier, but that it is
such an infant as yet that tbey want Itasca to hold the reins a few years
longer, even if the school children do run the risk of not giving a correct
answer to the question, "What is the Source of the Mississippi? " Mr.
Fletcher WiUiams would evidently Uke to ignore Captain Glazier's claims
if he could do so.
Mr. WilUams ! as the secretary of the State Historical Society, you
ought to be above using scurrilous language. Let Mr. WiUiams study
up his subject and not attack a man whose claims, to quote one of our
geographies, "are emphatically supported by the overwhelming testi
mony of hundreds of the most competent and distinguished authorities
in the Northwest," on the strength of the disbeUef of himself and three
or four of his friends, who in all probability have never seen the Source
of the Mississippi. If it is so easy, as Mr. WUliams claims, to prove
Captain Glazier in error, why not do so? If it is not worth while to do
so, why does Mr. WiUiams enter iuto the question at all? Is it from a
weakness for casting opprobrious names at an adversary who is known
to thousands to be worthy only of respect?
T take a further interest in the question from having been one of
a pai'ty who discussed the subject in the Jamestown public schools
some few years ago. We read everything we could flnd pertaining to it,
from Schoolcraft to Glazier, and unanimously agi-eed upon giving Captain
Glazier the credit of the discovery, in the absence of weU-supported
denials of his claim. It is abundantly clear that the lake claimed by
Captain Glazier was entirely unrecognized by the geographical world,

464 APPENDIX,
including Messrs. Schoolcraft and Nicollet, up to the year 1881, the date
of the Glazier expedition. If Mr. WilUams has determined to take Lake
Glazier from us, what wUl he substitute as the true source, for aU
geographers and historical societies agree now that Itasca has had its
day, and can never more gain recognition as the head of our greatest
river. Let our discoverer have his laurels and wear them now, not waiting,
as many of our great explorers have done, for their achievements to be
blazoned forth only after death has claimed them. The knowledge that
their efforts have been recognized and appreciated in this life is far
more to them than any posthumous honors can be. That Captain
Glazier's claims will be universaUy recognized sooner or later is an
axiom that can not be gainsaid. Yours for the right and fair play,
Mrs. P. K. Hunt.
A Kew Yorker pays his respects to J. V. Brower, and
criticises his report in the Pioneer Press: New York, May 30, 1889.
Editor Winona Eepublican, Minnesota:
I bave just noticed in one of your Saint Paul contemporaries, an
article with the singular heading, "Lakes Uke Links Secretly Connect
the Plateau Eeservoir with the Mississippi's Apparent Source."
The article with this incomprehensible heading is accompanied
by an imperfect and very inaccurate map of the Headwaters of the
Missi sippi. The writer— J. V. Brower, I presume— as usual, aflEects an
authoritative tone, and if his readers aUow themselves to be duped by his
inflated and positive style of treating the subject, they will find them
selves egregiously in error in the matter of the correct location of the
Source of the Mississippi.
As was observed by a writer in a late issue of the Saint Paul Dis
patch, this person was altogether unfitted to undertake the task assigned
him by certain members of your Historical Society, inasmuch as he
had predetermined, at any cost, to deprive Glazier of his weU-earned
laurels. The report now before me is aU fustian. This Lake No. 3 is
little more than a puddle, having no permanent connection with the
Mississippi, a fact he would soon discover if he went out there in July
or August; whereas the stream uniting his " EUr " Lake and Lake Itasca
is perennial. The dimensions he gives of No. 3 on his map are out of aU pro
portion to its real size; compared with the Glazier Source it is simply
an insignificant pond, and no part of it extends farther south than
the lake he persists in calUng ' Elk Lake ' — which the geographer
designates " Lake Glazier." This latter body of water covers an area of
255 acres, whereas Lake No. 3— named on the Glazier map ' ' Wolf Pond "
—is less than 30 acres in extent. Again: The comparative distances
Brower gives between the two lakes (Glazier and No. 8) and Lake Itasca,
viz., 8,315 feet and 1,100 feet, are altogether misleading; but this is a

APPENDIX. 465
matter of Uttle importance, as the southern extremity of Lake Glazier
extends in reality considerably farther south than No. 3 (Wolf Pond) .
Lake Glazier is the only respectable body of water to the south of
Itasca that presents a shadow of claim to be considered the Head of the
Great Eiver, and with all deference to the Fletcher Williams' cUque,
it will be held to be the True Source of the Father of Waters until the
next cataclysm deprives us of the Mississippi, and the flourishing city of
Saint Paul on its banks. Gotham.

30

D.
VOICE OP THE PRESS.
The opposition to the Glazier claim of a few recalcitrant
members of the Minnesota Historical Society, who still
persisted in their adherence to the Itasca of Schoolcraft, had
the eifect of inciting inquiry into the merils and authenticity
of the important discovery that Lake Itasca possessed no title
whatever _to the distinction so long conferred upon it, of
standing at the Head of our matchless river. Tlie attention
of the Press throughout this country, Canada, and Europe
has, since 1881, been frequently occupied with the question
herein discussed, and geographers and others have cuntributed
to it their views on the subject, in which the general belief
prevails that Itasca is not the Source of the river, and thnt the
fine lake to the south, unknown to Schoolcraft or Nicollet, or
to the public, unlil located by the First Glazier Expedition,
is the Primal Reservoir or Fountain-head of the Mississippi.
In conflrmation of this, I invite attention to the opinions of
the Press of many cities.

Saint Paul Dispatch.
". . . We are glad to be able to sustain anew the legitimate claims
of this brave and adventurous man. We beUeve that, had he Uved in the
times when heroism of the grandest type was an essential to the conduct
of Mississippi exploration, he would not have been found wanting in the
quaUties which, in those days, did so much to aid one's faith in the
innate grandeur of human character. . . Captain Glazier set out to
test the correctness of the generally accepted theories of scholars as to
the place of the rise of the Mississippi Eiver ; be made tbe test, and found
that those theories were not correct. He has given to the world the
record of his discovery, and, if we are not whoUy at fault, he has done
much to perpetuate his own name thereby,"

Northwestern Presbyterian, Minneapolis.
"AU who live in the vaUey of America's greatest river wUl be
especially interested in knowing something of its Source, its course, and
the cities that line its banks. Since De Soto first discovered the Father
(466)

APPENDIX. 467
of Waters, in 1541, many eminent explorers have beeu associated with its
history. Marquette, JoUet, La SaUe, Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix,
Carver, Pike, Cass, and Beltrami preceded Schoolcraft. The last named
discovered a lake which he supposed to be the Source, but the Indians
and the missionaries said there was a lake beyond. A learned few
believed them. It remained for some explorer to make further investi
gation, and publish the truth more widely to the world. This was done
by Captain Glazier, in 1881, who visited the lake, explored its shores, and
found it to be wider and deeper than Itasca."
Saint Paul Times.
". . Captain Glazier's claims are supported emphaticaUy by the
overwhelming testimony of thousands of the most distinguished and
competent authorities in the Northwest. Glazier undoubtedly expended
much time and treasure iu investigating not only the Source of the
Mississippi, but the geography and history of the entire river, from its
Som-ce to the Gulf. . . The leading map pubUshers have indorsed
his claims, and do so in a way that leaves no doubt that they place
implicit confidence in him as a careful and trustworthy geographer and
historian. Eand, McNally & Co. and George F. Cram of Chicago;
Matthews, Northrup & Co. of Buffalo; A. S. Barnes & Co. of New York;
University PubUshing Company of New York ; W. & A. K. Johnston of
Edinburgh, Scotland; MacMillan & Co., London and New York; W. M.
Bradley & Brother, Philadelphia, and many others of the leading pub
Ushing houses, who have a heavy personal interest in investigating the
accuracy of everything they pubUsh, acknowledge Captain Glazier's
claims by accepting his views, and reproducing them in their books and
maps. The press, bar, pulpit, and Legislatm-e of the State of Minnesota
give assent, through many of their leading members, to the position of
Captain Glazier." Chicago Times.
" The most interesting portion of Captain Glazier's ' Down the Great
Eiver ' is the beginning, where the author gives the details of an expedi
tion made, in 1881, by himself with five companions, when he claims, with
good grounds, to have fixed the actual True Source of the Great Eiver.
Hi» attention was called, in 1876, to the fact that, though everj-'body
knows the mouth of the stream, there was then much uncertainty about
the Source. In 1881, he found time to organize the expedition named, and
crossing the country to Itasca, embarked and pushed through that lake
up a stream flowing into it, and came upon another considerable body of
water fed by three streams originating in springs at the foot of a
curved range of biUs some miles farther on. This lake he fixed upon as
the True Source, and since his published accounts many geographers
and map workers have modified their works according to his discoveries.
He claims to have been the first to discover and establish the fact that it
is the highest Unk in a chain in which Itasca is another; or, in other
words, the True Source of the river. The Indian name of the lake is
Pokegama, and this, the author says, he would have retained, but was

468 APPENDIX.
overruled by the other flve, who insisted on calling it Lake Glazier.
For the particulars of the interesting story the reader must be referred
to the volume itself. Captain Glazier is an old traveler and a practiced
writer. The manner of his journey down the Mississippi enabled him to
see well all there was to see, and he enables his readers to see also."

Chicago Herald.
" For half a century or more it has been understood that Lake Itasca
was the Source of the Mississippi Eiver, but Captain WiUard Glazier has
exploded this theory by a canoe voyage undertaken in 1881 . The results
of his investigations were given to geographers at the time and accepted
as satisfactory and complete. Maps were at once changed by the map
publishers, and Lake Glazier, a tributary of Lake Itasca, was set down
as the True Source of the ' Father of Waters.' The stoi-y of Captain
Glazier's adventures is told by him in a book entitled ' Down the Great
Eiver,' which is entertaining as well as being of importance as a con
tribution to the geography and history of tbis country. Together with
two companions and several guides. Glazier first discovered that the lake
now bearing his name was the True Source of the Great Eiver, and then
journeyed by canoe from that point to the mouth of the Mississippi, a
distance of 3,184 miles."

Chicago Inter Ocean,
"Eeaders of 'Soldiers of the Saddle,' 'Capture, Prison-Pen, and
Escape,' and other writings of Captain Glazier, wiU require no urging to
read the entertaining volume ' Down the Great Eiver.' It is an account
of the discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi Eiver, with pic
torial and descriptive views of cities, towns, and scenery gathered from a
canoe voyage from its Headwaters to the Gulf. For fifty yeara Ameri
can youth bave been taught that ' the Mississippi rises in Lake Itasca,'
until Captain Glazier, in this memorable journey of one hundred and sev
enteen days in his canoe demonstrated the error, and mapped the facts
so accurately as to settle the question for all time. Leading geographers
and educational publishers have already made changes in their maps, and
given due credit to Captain Glazier and his new lake. To say the Mis
sissippi rises in Lake Glazier is only doing simple justice to the intrepid
explorer, and hero of many battles.''

Chicago Evening Journal.
" However the knowledge may affect the world at large that the
Source of the mighty Mississippi is other than generations of geography
students have been taught that it was, there is little doubt left that we
bave all been in the wrong about it, aud that this most peerless river
was born, not in Itasca's sparkling springs, but in another wider and
deeper body of water that lies still farther south and bears the name of
its discoverer— Lake Glazier. . . ."
Detroit Commercial Advertiser.
"... Captain Glazier undoubtedly accomplished a great work.

APPENDIX. 469
The source of the Mississippi had ever been an unsettled question,
unsatisfactory attempts at discovery having been made and various ill-
founded claims put forward; but the subject for the last half century
has been constantly agitated. It remained for Captain Glazier to finish
the work begun byDe Soto in 1541, and positively locate the True Fount
ain-head. . . . That the lake from which the Great Eiver starts,
known by the Indians as Lake Pokegama, should be re-named Lake
Glazier, seems an appropriate honor for the resolute explorer. "
New York Students^ Journal.
"... Captain WiUard Glazier discovered the True Source of the
Mississippi Eiver. This discovery is one of the most important contribu
tions to the geography of this country during the past half century.
It seems marvelous that, up to the year 1881, the geography of one of
the States of the Union was so poorly known that it had hitherto been
supposed that Lake Itasca was the Source of the great Father of
Waters." Brooklyn Eagle.
" Captain Glazier's very clear map of tbe Great Eiver shows the True
Source to be south of Lake Itasca— accepted by Schoolcraft in 1835 as the
Headwaters, in disregard of 'the stream entering its southwestern arm.
. To Captain Glazier belongs the identification of the Fountain-
head of the Mississippi." Popular Science Monthly.
" In ' Down the Great Eiver,' Captain Glazier relates the story in f uU
of his journey in 1881, by the aid of an Indian guide, ' across country,'
from Brainerd, Minnesota, to ' Lake Glazier,' south of Itasca Lake, and
his determination of it as the real source of the Mississippi Eiver. . . .
Lake Glazier is in latitude about 47'' N., is 1,585 feet above the level of
the sea, and is 3,184 miles from the GuU of Mexico. Its area is less than
that of Lake Itasca, but it is deeper and contains more water than
the latter. . . The story of the explorer's journey is very pleasantly
narrated."

Philadelphia Dispatch.
" . . In 1833, Henry Eowe Schoolcraft reached Lake Itasca, but
failed to search for its feeders, and thus missed the discovery of the True
Som'ce of the Mississippi. Jean Nicolas Nicollet reached the same point
four years later, and was satisfled that his journey was successfuUy con
cluded. Nothing further was done for forty-flve years, during which
time it was beUeved that Lake Itasca was the Source; but Captain Gla
zier pushed his explorations farther, and, by foUowing a feeder of Lake
Itasca, was rewarded by discovering, to the south of Itasca, a beautiful
body of water a mile and a half wide. This was the True Source. His
labors were promptly recognized by various learned societies and by
scientists and geographers, and to-day the lake, which bears the name
of the discoverer, is acknowledged to be the Primal Eeservoir of the
Great Kiver."

470 APPENDIX.
Grand Bapids Telegram^Herald.
" . . .. Captain Glazier, in his search for the True Source of the
Mississippi, has corrected a geographical error of half a century, and
located the fountain-head in a lake above and beyond Lake Itasca. He
discovered this lake on the twenty-second day of July, 1881, Chenowage
sic, a Chippewa brave, being his guide. The lake, out of which flows
the infant Mississippi, is about tw-o miles in its greatest diameter. Its
Indian name is Pokegama, but Glazier's companions insisted on naming
it after their leader. ..."

Albauy Argus.
" Eeaders of newspapers are doubtless famiUar with the controversy
as to the True Source of the Mississippi. Captain WiUard Glazier, known
as the writer of a number of popular works, made an expedition, in 1881,
in search of the starting point of the Great Eiver. Eeaching Brainerd,
on the Mississippi, he crossed the country to Leech Lake. Here, on July
17th, he launched his canoes and paddled through the Portage Eiver and a
chain of lakes lying to the west of Leech Lake. With a few detours he
came to Lake Itasca, which had heretofore been popularly accepted as
the source of the river. Coasting around this for tributaries, he found a
creek due south which connected with a beautiful lake about two mUes
in diameter. ... As this seemed to meet the geographical require
ments, being tbe most distant portion of tributary water from the mouth,
it was pronounced to be the Source, and the Indian name, Pokegama,
changed to Lake Glazier by the companions of the explorer."
Boston Traveler.
"In 1881 Captain Willard Glazier determined to test his theory, and
that of several other geographers, that Lake Itasca was not the real
source of the Mississippi, and undertook an expedition fraught with
innumerable difficulties, but successful in establishing the correctness of
his belief. For beyond Lake Itasca, and connected with it by a stream,
he found another lake nearly as large as Itasca, and which oroved to te
the True Source of the Great Eiver."
Boston Commonwealth.
" Captain WUlard Glazier, whose writings are so widely and favorably
known, achieved probably the most lasting reputation iu 1881, when he
made his expedition to tbe Source of the Mississippi. The results of that
expedition he has put in a book. Starting from Saint Paul on the 4th of
July, 1881, equipped with canoes and accompanied by Indian guides, he
set forth with the object of ascertaining if Lake Itasca were reaUy the
source of the ' Father of Waters,' as had been so long supposed. He
reached Lake Itasca, and after a careful examination of this lake, discov
ered that it was not the head of the river, but that there was a lake still
higher up, to which he pushed on with his canoes through a narrow inlet.
This lake has since been known by the name of its discoverer, ' Lake
Glazier,' and has been accepted by geographical authorities as in reaUty
the True Source of the great American Eiver."

APPENDIX. 471
Philadelphia Evening Telegraph.
" It appears quite clear that Lake Itasca never possessed any title to
the honor conferred upon it by Schoolcraft, in 1832, of giving birth to
our magniflcent river. One reason alone is given to account for our
ignorance of its Tme Som'ce, namely, it was outside the usual track of
the fur traders, and tn a region scarcely ever visited by Indians or white
men. Schoolcraft had pronounced Itasca to be the Source, and no
one up to the date of Captain Glazier's explorations felt sufficiently
interested in the matter to investigate or dispute its claim.
"It was long suspected that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head
higher up than Lake Itasca, and in July, 1881, an Expedition led by Cap
tain WiUard Glazier discovered a lake to the south of Itasca, a mile and
a half in diameter, and falling into the latter by a permanent stream.
Beyond this there is no water connected with the river, and hence Lake
Glazier is now recognized as the True Source of the Mississippi."
Chicago Geographical News.
". . . The real facts in the case are that aU the investigations
made since Captain Glazier's discovery tend to show very conclusively
that the True Source of the river is in the lake lying a short distance
south of Itasca; and that Glazier was the first who discovered and pro-
claimel the Source to be in that lake. This being the case, it seems but
just that the honor of the discovery should be no longer withheld from
him. At aU events, our school geographies should teach the truth as to
where the Source reaUy is." The Buffalo Times.
" . . The source of the Great Eiver has been sought for at dif
ferent times by travelers of nearly every nationaUty. In 1805, the United
States Government sent Lieutenant Pike to explore the region in which
the Mississippi was supposed to have its origin; and in 1820, Govemor
Cass of Michigan undertook a similar task; but they were unsuccessful in
their attempts to trace the nver to its origin, for its True Source remained
still unknown. In 1832, Henry Eowe Schoolcraft explored Lake Itasca,
which he regarded as the Head of the great stream. It had long been
suspected, however, that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head higher up
Ihan Lake Itasca; and in July, 1881, an Expedition, led by Captain WiU
ard Glazier, discovered a lake to the south of Itasca, nearly two miles in
diameter and forty-flve feet deep, falling into Itasca by a permanent
stream. Lake'Glazier is now generaUy recognized as the source of our
^eat midland stream." Cleveland Leader.
" Captain Glazier has added to his long and varied experiences the
discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi. He found it in a hith
erto unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca. . . . He started with his
brother and one or two other white men, and having arrived at Leech
Lake, obtained birch-bark canoes, and one or two Indians, and set out In
search of the Source. Having reached Lake Itasca, the lake which has

472 APPENDIX.
heretofore been regarded as the Source, he resolved upon a thorough
exploration of the adjacent regions. The outlets of six small streams
were found in Itasca. Trusting to an Indian guide, they entered the
largest one, and followed it along some distance. After paddling for
some time, another lake was found, and christened by the party 'Lake
Glazier— the Source of the Father of Waters. ¦• This lake is nearly two
miles in diameter and forty-flve feet deep. . . ."

Indianapolis Journal.
** . . . In 1881, Captaia Glazier, having doubts of the accuracy of
previous explorations at the Headwaters of the Mississippi, set out to
verify them, or to discover, hiraself, the True Source of the Great
Kiver. This he did, after an interesting and remarkable overland
journey through the wilds of Northern Minnesota. He discovered and
demonstrated that the True Source of the Mississippi is not Lake Itasca,
as had been long claimed, but a lake to the south of that and emptying
into it, which he located, and it has since been named Lake Glazier in
honor of the discoverer. . . ''''
National Eepublican, Washington, D. C.
" . . . The birthplace of the Father of Waters is not Lake Itasca,
as generally received, but Lake: Glazier, in its vicinity, which, by a
small stream, flows iuto Itasca. Lake Glazier, so named from its dis
coverer. Captain Willard Glazier, has three feeders. Eagle, Excelsior,
and Deer creeks. This latest geographical claim is supported by ample
testimony from highest and wide-spread authoriti^."

Ohio State Journal.
" It seems strange that for nearly fifty years, up to 1881, no new thing
had been discovered concerning the great Mississippi, whose Source in
the vast wilderness cf the Northwest was supposed to be in Lake Itasca.
In that year, however, Captain Wfllard Glazier, an adventuroia spirit,
determined to finally solve the mystery of the Source of the ' Father of
Waters,* and also to navigate its entire length from Source to Sea.
Accordingly, he traced with infinite hardship the naiTowing stream
above Itasca untU its True Source was finally reached in what is now
known as Lake Glazier," Philadelphia Public Ledger.
"By the discoveries of Captain Willard Glazier, made in 1881, Lake
Itasca is dislodged from its former eminence as the Source of the Missis
sippi, the real Headwaters of that mighty stream being traced to Lake
Glazier, a distance of 3,184 miles from the Gidf of Mexico."

The Wlieeling Intelligencer.
*' Until this journey was made, the Source of the Mississippi was
universally placed in Lake Itasca, whereas Glazier and his party demon-

APPENDIX. 473
strated that a higher basin, now put down in aU the new maps and geog
raphies as Lake Glazier, is really the Primary Eeservoir of the
Mississippi. It seems almost incredible, but is nevertheless true, that
for over forty years previous to 1881, when Captain Glazier made his
discovery, it was accepted as settled that Lake Itasca was the remotest
body of water from the mouth of the Mississippi. The falsity of this
theory, however, has been estabUshed, and an important discovery given
to the geographical world. No discovery rivaling this in interest and
importance has been made on the American continent for half a
century." New York Christian Nation.
" Strange as it may seem, the True Source of the Mississippi was not
known until 1881, but was erroneously supposed to take its rise in Lake
Itasca, until that well-known traveler and popular writer. Captain
WUlard Glazier, took it into his head that the flrst end of the loug river
was not reaUy known. And as Columbus resolved to discover a new
world, so Captain Glazier determined to flnd the real Source of the
Mississippi. He set forth in the month of May, 1881, from New York to
the 'far West,' to put his long-cherished theory to the test, and with
what result the world was made acquainted at the time by the public
press. Many men have worked and schemed for years to gain fame, but
Captain Glazier, in the heroic discharge of a self-imposed duty, in 117
days made his name immortal." Philadelphia Inquirer.
"Several years ago Captain Glazier, while meditating upon the
exploits of De Soto, Marquette, Father Hennepin, and La SaUe, the heroic
old explorers, who led the way to the Great Eiver of North America,
regretted that although its mouth was discovered by the Chevalier La
SaUe nearly two hundred years ago, there was still much uncertainty
as to its True Source. . . The discovery and flnal location of the
source of the Mississippi has now received general recognition in this
country and Europe, and there certainly seems to be no doubt of the
vahdity of Captain Glazier's claim. His account of the discovery is
very entertaining reading." Burlington Hawkeye.
"In the summer of 1881, Captain WUlard Glazier, weU known as a
popular writer, made a remarkable canoe voyage from the Som'ce of the
Mississippi down its entire length to thp Gulf of Mexico. Prior to start
ing on this unprecedented voyage, he organized and led an expedition to
the Headwaters of the river in Northern Minnesota, with a view of set
ting at rest the vexed question as to the True Source of the mighty river.
Captain Glazier and his party left Saint Paul, duly equipped with canoes
and commissariat, July fourth, 1881, and arrived at Lake Itasca July
twenty-first. Thence, by the aid of his Indian guides, he penetrated to
another lake beyond Itasca, and connected therewith by a stream which
is a continuation of the Mississippi, and at that point is simply a narrow

474 APPENDIX.
creek. The lake thus entered by Captain Glazier is the True Source of
the Father of Waters. Lake Glazier now appears on the maps as the
source of the Great Eiver." Camden Post.
". . . Starting for the Headwaters of the Mississippi in July, 1881,
Captain Glazier teUs us in the narrative of his journey that he learned
that the dense forests which surround the Source of the Father of Waters
were rarely penetrated by white men, or even by Indians except in the
pursuit of game in the winter. He also learned through his Indian guides
and interpreter that the inhabitants of these primeval forests did not
regard Itasca as the Source of May-see-see-bee, but that another lake,
broad, deep, and beautiful, which lay above Itasca, and poured its clear
waters into that lake, was the true head of the river. The Captain
determined to thoroughly examine all this region, and to settle forever
the question of the veritable Source of the Mississippi. In accordance
with this design, he at length, atter many difficulties, found himself on
Schoolcraft Island in the center of Lake Itasca, and after a night's rest
directed operations toward the lakes and streams of the surrounding
country. He examined the shores of Itasca for tributary streams, find
ing but two of any Importance. Ot these, the largest came in at the
extreme head of the lake, the mouth of whicb was fiUed with bulrushes.
Taking two canoes, he and his party ascended this stream. FoUowing
the windings, and pushing through the obstructions, the canoes suddenly
glided out upon the still surface of a comparatively large lake, clear as
crystal, with pebbly bottom, and shores covered with a thick growth of
pine. The greatest length of this lake is about two miles and its width
a mUe and a half. Captain Glazier, feeUng thoroughly convinced that
this flne body of water was the True Source of the Mississippi, proclaimed
it as such, and his companions decided unanimously to name it Lake
Glazier in honor of their leader. One of the party was an attache of the
Saint Paul Pioneer Press, and this gentleman dispatched an account of
the discovery to his paper. Since that period, the newly discovered
Source has engaged the attention of the press tliroughout the country,
which, with one or two exceptions, has unqualifledly accepted Captain
Glazier's account, and given him the credit due; and the maps of
Minnesota now show Lake Glazier instead of Lake Itasca as the
Source of the Great Eiver. . . ."

Pittsburg Press.
". . . The mystery which surrounded the regions of Lake Itasca,
the accepted Source for nearly fifty years, and the paucity of informa
tion concerning the lake, were sufficient incentives to lead Captain Gla
zier, in 1881, to organize an Expedition to carry the exploration farther
than had been done by any previous explorer. It resulted in a complete
success, as he not only succeeded in reaching Lake Itasca, but, foUowing
the lead of an Indian guide, he made the discovery that there was stiU
another lake above Itasca, and connected therewith by a permanently
flowing stream— the Infant Mississippi. This lake was the real Source

APPENDIX. 475
of the river, and was named ' Glazier ' in honor of the man who had
planned and led the expedition. It has been so placed on maps issued by
educational houses, not only in this country, but also in Canada and
Europe. ..." New York Observer.
". . . To Captain Glazier is undoubtedly due the honor of tracing
the Father of Waters, the great American river, up to its True Source in
the network of lakes that occupies the northern portion of the State of
Minnesota, a task attended with more difficulties and embarrassments
than it might appear to involve to the careless observer. . . ."

Minneapolis- Star News.
". . . On the 22d day of July, 1881, the traveler and author,
Captain Willard Glazier, discovered a silvery lake nestled among the
pines of Northern Minnesota, and situate to the south of Itasca. He
also discovered that a swift current flowed continuously from his new
found wonder to what was supposed to be the Source of the Father of
Waters. Further investigation revealed the fact that the lake he had
discovered was the True Source of the Mississippi. The lake is known
to the Indians as Pokegama — ' the Place where the Waters Gather.'
". . . Captain Glazier was induced to explore the Headwaters of
the Mississippi by Indian tradition, which denied Schoolcraft's theory of
Itasca. In the early part of Glazier's expedition he met Paul BeauUeu,
the veteran interpreter at the Leech Lake Government Agency, who told
him that Schoolcraft was in error. Fortifled with this idea, he set out
to discover the True Source of the Father of Waters. ... To Cap
tain Glazier is due all the glory and honor of discovering to modem geog
raphers the True Head of our Great Eiver."

Philadelphia Times.
" If one has labored under the impression that at this late date in our
history every nook and corner of the United States has been discovered
and mapped by enterprising explorers, it now seems conclusive that one
has been mistaken. Captain WUlard Glazier has discovered the True
Source of the Mississippi, which is not, as we have been led to believe
from om' boyhood, in Lake Itasca, but in another lake to the south of it.
UnUke Mr. Donnelly in his attempt to dethrone Shakespeare, he suc
ceeds in proving his theory to the satisfaction of the most competent
judges, to wit, the geographers and educational publishers of the
country. These accept the new Source by placing it on their maps and
calUngitafter the discoverer, 'Lake Glazier.' . . ."

Boston Beacon.
" On July 22, 1881, Captain Willard Glazier discovered what is now
known to be the True Source of the Mississippi, in a lake beyond Itasca,
about six miles in circumference, which, by the expedition accompany
ing him, was given his name, and so, after half a century, the origin of
the Father of Waters is at length settled beyond a doubt. . . ."

476 APPENDIX.

Portland Express.
". . Captain Glazier and the members of his Expedition went
in search of the True Source of the Mississippi. The expedition exploded
the long-held theory that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Father of
Waters, and its True Source was discovered and accurately located. As
a result of the discoveries made by Captain Glazier, aU the atlases,
geographies, and encyclopaedias marked the change of the Mississippi's
Source, and although the discoveries were not credited for a time, their
accuracy has since been estabUshed with the above results. . . "

Troy Budget.
" . Probably nothing has done more to establish Captain Gla
zier's reputation than his explorations at the Headwaters of the Missis
sippi. DUf erent travelers, of world-wide fame, had flxed upon different
lakes as the Source of this 'Father of Waters,' and geographers and
map makers had for years regarded the matter as settled, and recorded
Lake Itasca, on the authority of Schoolcraft, as the sought-for Source.
Led by the whisperings of Indian traditions, that told of other lakes,
still farther on. Captain Glacier determined to test the accuracy of these
shadowy reports. His persistence was amply rewarded. He has turned
a new leaf in the geography of that region, which neither the jealousy
of rival interests nor the torsion of adverse criticism has been able to
tum backward. The water which he discovered, and which his com
panions very appropriately caUed Lake Glazier, has become historic. It
has been adopted by the best geographers and by the best map makers
as a final settlement of the question of the actual Source of the Missis
sippi Eiver. . ."
The foregoing will probably be sufBcient evidence to
the reader that the "Voice of the Press" was distinctly
heard in support of the discovery of 1881, and in justifi
cation of the man who possessed the moral courage to
question a popular, but groundless, theory, and the pluck
to overthrow it, in the face of contumely, insult, and mean
detraction of interested and prejudiced pseudo-scientists.
Barely one-third of the press articles in my possession, all
in support of the Glazier claim, are given, but
sufjicit.

E.
OOEEESPONDENCE EELATING TO SECOND EXPEDITION.
The Second Glazier Expedition to the Head'svaters of the
Mississippi was undertaken in August aud September, 1891,
and some of the correspondence that preceded it is here given.
The object of this second visit is plainly indicated in the
following letter addressed by Captain Glazier to the Secretary
of the Wisconsin Historical Society, Madison. Letters of
similar tenor were also sent to several gentlemen, including
scientists, secretaries of geographical societies, heads of col
leges, and others who, it was thought, from their position in
the literary and scientific world, would naturally be interested
in the solution of an important geogi'aphical question which
had attracted so much attention. To all of these letters cour
teous responses ¦were received, the result being that some
accepted the invitation, while more were unable to spare the
necessary time from their business and professional occupa
tions. All, however, wrote encouragingly, and expressed
their approval of the proposed plan of another and final
effort to establish the truth as to the real Source of the Great
Kiver. ¦147 Jackson Street,
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, June 24, 1891.
The Secretary, State Historical Society, Madison, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: Having concluded to re-visit the Headwaters of the Mis
sissippi, accompanied by a few gentlemen interested in the topography
of that region, I take the Uberty of informing you of my purpose. I
may explain that my object in making this second journey is not to
seek confirmation of my published statements on the subject of the True
Source of our Great Eiver, for upon this question I am so thoroughly
satisfied of laj correctness that no amount of cavil or opposition can
affect my conclusions in the slightest degree — ^but, mainly, for the satis
faction of the gentlemen — geographers, scientists, editors, and others —
who will join me as members of the expedition and see for themselves
the beautiful lake above Itasca, which I claimed, after careful survey, to
be the Source of the Mississippi; and which I assert, on the testimony of
(477)

478 APPENDIX.
all American geographers, was never so considered prior to the visit ot
my exploring party of 1881, when its true relation to the river was
revealed and estabUshed. These gentlemen wiU probably testify over
their signatures as to the results of their investigations, the eflEect ot
which may possibly be, to remove the doubts of some who stiU affect to
beUeve Lake Itasca to be the Source— an error which I have combatted
for the last ten years.
It has occurred to me, dear sir, that you are presumably interested
in the elucidation of an important geographical problem which has
attracted so much of pubhc attention, and may possibly like to become
a member of our party o£ investigators, and thus be enabled to form
your own conclusions from observations made on the spot. Should you
favor me by accepting my invitation, a cordial welcome will await you,
and I shall do my best to make the journey as agreeable and pleasant as
possible. Having already been over the ground, I shall have no difflculty
in pUoting my companions by the nearest and best route to our
destination. I am at present organizing an expedition for the journey, and shaU be
very pleased to hear from you on the subject of my proposal. I am.
Very respectfully, WiLLABD Glazier.
Rev. John C. Crane had been for some years in doubt as
to the real Source of the Mississippi, and expressed a strong
desire to become a member of the Expedition. Mr. Crane is
well known in the East as a magazine writer on historical
questions. West Millbury, May 24, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
My Dear Sir: It has been my great desire for the past few years
to visit the Headwaters of the Mississippi. Time after time I have taken
up your maps and others bearing on the region, to see if I was right in
my premises and conclusions. I have said to myself; Are you not
prejudiced in the matter? Is not the source somewhere else? Invainl
I could not convince myself that I am wrong in accepting your lake to
tbe south of Itasca. By what process of reasoning men can come to
any other conclusion, I can not understand. I appreciate your desire to
know and pubUsh the truth on this important geographical question,
and wiU go with you If possible. Very truly yours, J. C. Crane.
Rev, George A. Peltz, D. D., LL. D., pastor of the Temple
Baptist Church, Philadelphia, believes Lake Glazier is the
Source of the Mississippi, and regretted his inability to aocom-
pany the party.

APPENDIX. 479
The Temple, Broad asu Berks Strebts,
Philadelphia, June 9, 1891.
Dear Captain Glazier: Your kind letter of the 3d inst. was a
surprise, and I thought I must say " yes," and journey with you through
the Northern Wilderness. But I have been obUged to change my con
clusions as I have thought the matter over. I fear, as I grow older, I am
getting too heavy for explorations, so I am sure I would not help your
party much. I thank you for your remembrance of me, but must decUne
the honor, whioh I do with much regret. I wish you aU success. May
you sUence your adversaries so effectuaUy that they wUl never trouble
you again. Yours very sincerely, George A. Pei/tz.
General Edward W. Whitaker of Washington, D. C, late
chief of stafE to Generals Custer, Kilpatrick, and Sheridan,
regretted his inability to accompany the Glazier party on
account of official engagements. WASHiNaxoH, June 14, 1891.
Captain W. Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
My Dear Captain: Your letter of June llth at hand. Thanks for
your invitation. I note the dates you mention for commencing your
march north, and see clearly that my engagements for the reunion of
1st Connecticut Cavalry and the G. A. E., at Detroit, wiU deprive me of
the great pleasure of being with you and your company of "pioneers."
I truly regret this, and trust you will be able to rout the enemy without
the aid of, Yours very sincerely, E. W. Whitaker.
Gteorge Thompson, editor of the Saint Paul Dispatdi, would
have much liked to join the Glazier Expedition to the Head
waters, but was unable to absent himself on account of busi
ness pressure. Office of the Dispatch,
Saint Paul, Minnesota,
June 15, 1891.
Captain W. Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: Your letter of June 10th I found on my desk on my retum
from a short vacation. The invitation to accompany you on your trip to
the Headwaters, much as I should Uke to go for many reasons, I am very
sorry to say I caimot accept, as my duties are so numerous that they
wUl not permit of my absence for any length of time. With regard to a
representative of the Dispatch going with the party, I hope to be able
to send one . I understand that a delegation, appointed by the Govemor
to locate a park near the Source of the river, wUl start shortly, and, on
that account, as weU as a strong desire to acquire a certain knowledge,
I should Uke to accompany your party, or the other, or send a tepre-
sentative with both. Yery traly yours, Geoboe TBOUPSON.

480 APPENDIX.
George F. Cram of Chicago, Book, Map, and Atlas
Publisher, would have been pleased to see the Source of
the Mississippi. 415-417 Dearborn Street,
Chicaoo, Illinois,
June 82, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: I am pleased to acknowledge receipt of your favor of
the 20th inst., and thank you for the invitation you extend to me. I
do not know, at present, if it wUl be possible forme to leave my business
and be present with you on your trip, although I would exceedingly hke
to do so, both for the satisfaction of seeing the Source of the Mississippi,
and also for the very pleasant summer outing which it wlU undoubtedly
be. . . . You have my best wishes.
, Yours very truly, George F. Cram.

Hon. D. Sinclair, editor Winona BepuUican, had business
engagements which rendered it impossible to join the expe
dition. Eepublican Office,
WiNON.4, June 23, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
My Db-AR Sir: ... I have deferred answering your invitation,
hoping that I might be able to so arrange my afEau's as to accompany
you on your expedition to the Source of the Mississippi. This, how
ever, I find it impossible to do, on account of business engagements out
side of my regular newspaper work. I regret this very much, as it
would have afforded me the greatest pleasure; aU the more so, inas
much as I have strongly sympathized with your views in the gallant
contest you have made with our Minnesota savants of the Historical
Society. Thanking you very cordiaUy for your invitation, I am,
¦Very truly yours, D. gmOLAIR.

Dr. A. Munsell, editor Dubuque Trade Journal, accepted
the invitation to accompany Captain Glazier and his party.
Trade Journal Office,
Dubuque, June 29, 1891.
Captain Glacier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: I am pleased with the plan of your journey to the Head
waters of the Mississippi, and, in answer to your invitation, shaU find
pleasure in accompanying the expedition in August. I am already
Impressed vrith the idea, from all I have heard and read of your former

APPENDIX. 481
expedition, pro and con, that Itasca is not the Source, and shaU be only
too glad to look over the field myself, and form my conclusions from
ocular evidence. I wlU be prepared to join you iu a tramp through the
wUderness whenever you are ready to start. I have, as you are aware,
given considerable attention to the subject that interests you so much.
Yours very truly, A. Munsell.
W. H. Gamble, a prominent geographer ot Philadelphia,
while recognizing the importance of a second expedition,
¦was unable to accept the invitation, for reasons whioh he
assigns. 618 Chestnut Street,
Philadelphia, June 30, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
... I appreciate your kindness in tendering me an invitation to
visit with you the Headwaters of the Mississippi, but am afraid it will
be impossible for me to accept, as I shall be at that time unusuaUy deep
in my United States geological work, our contract expiring this fall; but
I assure you there is nothing would please me more than to make one
of your interesting party of explorers. The knowledge gained by a
tramp over the field would be of vast service to me, and I think to
others, for my plan would be to follow up the drainage and locate its
proper Eeservoir, which, I bave no doubt, from all I have learr.ed, would
he in the Glazier Lake, in accordance with the topography as I now
understand it. I have just completed, for the Pennsylvania EaUroad
Company, a large drawing of the United States, representing their sys
tem and connecting Unes. I have placed Lake Glazier as the Source of
the Mississippi. This drawing wiU be circulated throughout Europe as
weU as America— North and South. W. H. Gamble.
George H. Benedict of Chicago, Map and Wood Engraving,
could not avail himself of the invitation.
175-177 South Clark Street,
Chicago, July 6, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: Your polite invitation to accompany your Expedition to
the Som'ce of the Mississippi is received, and I regret very much that it
wUl be quite impossible for me to leave my business for the length of
time it would require to make the trip and investigation you contem
plate. With many thanks for your invitation, and wishmg you success,
I am, Yours truly, George H. Benedict.
Professor A. N. Husted of the Sate Normal College,
Albany, New York, appreciated the invitation, but was unable
to accept it, for domestic reasons.
31

APPENDIX. State Normal College,
Albany, July 8, 1891.
Mt Dear Captain Glazier: I greatly appreciate your invitation to
make one of your party to proceed to the Source of the Mississippi.
Under other circumstances I should be most happy to avaU myself of it,
but am compeUed to decUne on account of the severe Ulness of Mrs.
Husted, which has detained us here since our " Commencement. " I am,
however, very sensible of your courtesy in tlunking of me as a possible
addition to your corps of explorers. BeUeve me that to see the Source
of the great Mississippi, and enjoy the society of your select party, for a
time, would be a very great pleasure to me. Wishing you a successful
trip and more weU-eamed honors, I remain, Sincerely yours, A. N. Husted.

H. H. Rassweiler, Geographer, Chicago, would have
been very glad to form one of the party, but business engage
ments precluded his doing so. 515 Wabash Avenue,
Chicago, July 9, 1891.
Captain Glazieb, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: Your favor of the 4th inst. is received, and I thank you
for your invitation to accompany you on your contemplated trip to the
Headwaters of the Great Eiver. Nothing that I can think of in the Une
of recreation, adventure, and interesting research would give me more
pleasure than just such a trip as you propose undertaking. But I regret
to say that I can not go. Business appointments already made forbid
me the pleasure. Thanking you agaiu for your very kind invitation, I
am, ¦Very truly yours, H. H. Eassweiler.

Charles H. Ames of the flrm of D. C. Heath & Co., Edu
cational Publishers, Boston, Massachusetts, said he could
not think of a vacation for some months to come, as it was
the busiest season of the year in the educational publishing
business. Boston, July 13, 1891.
Captain W. Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: Your attractive invitation to join an exploring party at
the Headwaters of the Mississippi in August is received. Nothing would
please me more, and especiaUy to make the journey in company with
such gentlemen as I am sure you wiU bring together on the occasion.
An acceptance of your invitation is, however, for me, utterly out of the
question. It is the busiest season of the year tn educational publishing,
and I can not think of a vacation for some months to come.

APPENDIX. 483
Please accept my thanks and best wishes for the fuUest success of
your expedition, and beUeve me. Very truly yours,
Charles H. Ames.
Cliarles Lubrecht, New York, Map and Chart Manufacturer,
was unable to leave his business, but sent good wishes, and
believed the Second Expedition would result in establishing
Captain Glazier's claim. 195 Pearl Street,
New York, July 13, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
Dear Sir: I thank you for your invitation to accompany your party,
and assure you nothing would afford me more pleasure than roughing
it with you for such an object. But my business wiU not permit my
absence for so long a time as you state. I can only send you my best
wishes, and feel convinced that this Second Expedition to tbe Source of
the Father of Waters wiU fuUy and forever estabUsh in all doubting
minds— if there are any left — your rightful claim as its discoverer. I am.
Very truly yours, Charles Lubrecht.
Dr. Charles E. Harrison, Davenport, Iowa, Secretary aud
ex-President Academy of Natural Sciences, accepted invita
tion to accompany the Expedition. Davenport, July 15, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, MUwaukee, Wisconsin.
My Dear Sir: Your letter is at hand. I thank you for your invita
tion to a member of our Academy to join your Expedition to the Itascan
Basin, and wiU endeavor to find one, who would not only be acceptable
as our representative, but would do honor to you and your party.
Unfortunately, most of our members are men of business and pressed
for time, but I hope to be able to flnd some one who wiU avail himself
of your invitation. I have spoken to Professor Barriss on the subject,
but fear it wiU be impossible for him to go, as he is getting weU along in
years and his feeble health would not permit him to undergo the
necessary fatigue. Our President— Mr. Thompson— Professor Barriss,
and other officers and members, unite in urging me to represent them,
but I hesitate to do so from the fact that I make no claims as a scientist,
only a lover of nature and nature's works. Have devoted some atten
tion to archEeology, having done considerable investigation of the mounds
in this vicinity. I have served the Academy for many years in aU the
official capacities. May I ask the length of time to be occupied by the
trip? I am. Very truly yours,
Charles B. Harrison.
NOTE. — In a subsequent letter. Dr. Hai'rison concluded to
accept the inidtation to represent the Academy, and accompanied
the Glacier pa/rty, leaving Minnea/polis August seventeenth.

484 APPENDIX.
D. S. Knowlton. editor Boston Times, accepted invitation
to join the investigating party. The Times Office,
Boston, Massachusetts,
July 20, 1891.
Dear Captain Glazier: Your favor of June 26th was duly received,
and after giving the matter f uU consideration, I accept your invitation
to join you on a tour of observation at the Headwaters of the Mississippi.
I will arrange the vacations of those in the office and adjust my own
affairs so as to aUow of my absence for a month or so. I very much
wish to make one of the party, and things point that way now. Should
there be any change in the date of departure from Minneapolis, wiU
you kindly advise me? You can readily appreciate that I am ordinarily
pretty busy, and have many interests which it is diflicult to neglect, or
be away from for a month. But I am counting most earnestly upon
being one of your party, and thank you for the invitation. We New
Englanders want to know all about the "Great Northwest," and espe
ciaUy the exact location of the mighty Mississippi's cradle.
Very truly yours, D. S. Knowlton.
James O. Griffin, Kegistrar Cornell "University, in the
absence of President Adams in Europe, endeavored to comply
with Captain Glazier's request. Office Eegistrar
Cornell University, Ithaca,
July 24, 1891.
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
My Dear Sir: In reply to your letter of invitation addressed to
President Adams, I beg to say that he is now absent in Europe, and wiU
not return until September; but I will place your letter in the hands of
Professor H. S. WiUiams, of the department of Geology and Paleontology,
and request him to recommend to you, if possible, a gentleman to
represent us in your party. I am, Very truly yours, James O. Griffin.
Professor H. D. Densmore, Beloit College, had arranged to
join the Glazier Expedition, but found at the last moment that
he could not absent himself from the College at the time
appointed for the departure from Minneapolis, and recom
mended a substitute. Beloit College,
August 11, 1891.
Captain Glazier, Minneapolis, Minnesota.
Mt Dear Sir: I flnd, at the last moment, that I can not accompany
you. Your trip would take me into the beginning of my term work.

APPENDIX. 485
whieh it does not seem advisable for me lo encroach upon. I am very
sorry indeed not to form one of your party. I cau do no better than
commend to you as a substitute Mr. Albert "Whitney, son of Professor
H. M. ¦Whitney. He is a gi'aduate, and a genius in woodcraft. You would
find him a valuable acquisition as an explorer.
Again expressing my regrets, I am.
Very sincerely yours, H. D. Densmore.
The replies to letters of invitation could be largely multi
plied, but the few I have inserted above will suffice to show
the spirit in which the invitation was received, and the inter
est manifested in the proposed Expedition.

p.
AFTER THE EBTUEN.
Having presented to the reader a few of the letters received
by Captain Glazier before the departure of the Expedition on
its errand of investigation, it will possibly be deemed pertinent
to the purpose of this Appendix to submit others written by
various members of the party after their return. These show
the very decided opiuions formed on the subject that engrossed
attention at the Headwaters — tho exact location of the Source
of the Mississippi. They will further expose the mendacity
of certain parties who maliciously invented and attempted to
spread the falsehood that the investigating party were "divided
in their conclusions as to the True Source of the Eiver."
The New York Herald printed the following communica
tion from D. S. Knowlton, editor of the Boston Times:
Wadena, Minnesota,
September 4, 1891.
To the Editor of the New York Herald:
On Saturday morning, August 22d, the Glazier Expedition left Park
Eapids, Hubbard County, Minnesota, by wagon train, to visit the Head
waters of the Mississippi Eiver. Their object was to carefuUy investi
gate the streams and lakes tributary to Lake Itasca, take measurements
and photographs, and report to the public impartiaUy upon the facts as
found. The value to the world of these investigations Ues in the fact
that there is, particularly in Saint Paul, some controversy as to what
should be considered the Ultimate Source of the Father of Waters.
In 1832, Schoolcraft located Itasca as this Source. In 1881, Captain
WiUard Glazier, the author and traveler, claimed to have discovered, and
to have been the first to announce, the ti'ue relation of the Mississippi to
the lake south of the southwest arm of Lake Itasca. As it was a lake of
large dimensions, he proclaimed it the True Source.
It was quite generally considered to be so for a number of years.
Then a controversy arose, and lately the Minnesota Historical Society,
who denominate the Glazier Lake as Elk Lake — the early name of Itasca
—have explored another stream entering Itasca a little farther to the
west, called NicoUet Creek, and have located the Source of the Great
Eiver up that valley.
The members of this Second Expedition were: Captain Willard
(486)

APPENDIX. 487
Glazier of Albany, New York; Pearce GUes of Camden, New Jersey;
John C. Crane of Worcester, Massachusetts, historian, author, and
genealogist; Charles E. Harrison of Davenport, Iowa, who has held
nearly aU of the executive offices of the Davenport Academy of Sciences;
A. MunseU of Dubuque, Iowa, editor and publisher of the Dubuque
Trade Journal, and weU known in the business circles of that city ; F. J.
Trost of Van Loo & Trost, the Toledo photographers, who took many
photographs of the lakes' tributaries and surrounding hUls; W. S. Shure
of York, Pennsylvania, artist; D. S. Knowlton, editor of the Boston
Times; Albert W. "Whitney of Beloit CoUege, Beloit, Wisconsin, botan
ist to the expedition; E. M. Horton, surveyor and civU engineer; Oliver
S. Keay of Park Bapids, assistant surveyor and guide, and Louis Dele
zene of Park Bapids, cook. We were also accompanied a part of the
time by Hon. C. D. Cutting and Frank Cutting of Howard County,
Iowa; and A. B. Cobb, postmaster at Park Eapids, and editor of the
Hubbard County Enterprise.
Miss AUce Glazier, Captain Glazier's daughter, was the only lady to
accompany the expedition. She has decided abUity as a water-colorist
and sketcher.
Saturday evening overtook us twenty-two mUes from Park Bapids.
Schoolcraft Island, in Lake Itasca, was reached by nightfall tbe next
day. Early Monday moming, August 24th, we paddled down the southwest
arm of Itasca, and pitched a permanent camp on a ridge, some thirty
feet high, overlooking and separating Lake Itasca on the north and the
Glazier lake on the south. The latter is a beautiful body of water, at
least 255 acres in area. It flows into Itasca by a stream 1,100 feet in
length, which has been named the Infant Mississippi.
The feeders of Lake Glazier are as foUows: Skirting the lake eilong
its eastern shore, one hears, fifty feet away, the water pouring in a cas
cade from an iron spring, some flfty feet from the edge of the lake,
and at least fifteen feet above it. Next comes Deer Creek, which is
6,864 feet long; Horton Creek is 1,188 feet long, flowing fpm a lake 396
feet wide; Excelsior Creek is 8,778 feet in length, its source being two
and two-third nules from Itasca. Eagle Creek is 4,356 feet long, and
flows from Lake AUce, a picturesque sheet of water nine and a half
acres in extent.
These tributaries enter the lake in natural bays, which are separated
from eaoh other by wooded ridges jutting into the lake.
Ithaving been claimed by some that the Mississippi has its Source up
NicoUet Creek to the west, the party made an equally careful investiga
tion of the running water tributary at that point. NicoUet Creek was
chained from its mouth through NicoUet's First Lake— not over three
acres in extent— and NicoUet's Second Lake— not over twelve acres in
extent— to its starting-point, above the second lake. The most remote
running water issues from a series of springs 7,307 feet from Itasca, a
Uttle over one and two-flfths nules. These springs are at the foot of a
high ridge or divide, which was examined carefuUy. I can not see how
they can tae considered otherwise than the source of tiie creek. No con-

488 APPENDIX.
necting running water was found flowing from NicoUet's Third Lake
over the divide or from the region beyond.
By comparing the figures given, it is seen that the distance of th©
most remote running water from Itasca fiowing through Glazier Lake —
the source of Excelsior Creek— is 6,799 feet more than the most remote
running water entering Itasca through the NicoUet Creek— an excess ot
nearly one mUe and a third in favor of the Glazier Basin. . . .
Our long tramps being practicaUy completed early Saturday after
noon, August 29th, the entire company crossed the Glazier lake in
canoes to the highest promontory on its southern shore. Captain Gla
zier there delivered quite an address beneath the same trees under which
he halted in 1881 . He said tbat he then became satisfled that this beautiful
lake was the True Source of the Mississippi, for the reason that it ia
above and beyond Itasca; that it flows into that lake through aperennial
stream, and that it has flve permanent feeders leading to the swamps
and sand hills from one and a half to two and a half miles southward.
Camp was broken Monday, August Slst, and we arrived at Park Eap
ids Tuesday evening. The members of the party drew up and signed
a statement covering their observations, without Captain Glazier's
knowledge. I will give the concluding paragraph:
"Investigation and observation lead us to the conclusion that the
basin drained by the feeders to Lake Glazier, and emptying mto Lake
Itasca at the southeast corner of its southwest arm, is considerably
larger than that drained by the stream emptying into the south side of
the southwest arm— Nicollet Creek; and that running water can be
traced at a much greater distance from the outlet of Glazier Lake inio
Lake Itasca than from the other outlet referred to." D. S. Knowlton.

Letter to the Minneapolis Tribune from Albert "W. "?7hit-
ney, botanist to the expedition: Park Eapids, Minnesota,
September 3, 1891.
The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi
returned to this place last evening. . . The party left Minneapolis
on Monday, August seventeenth. Most of the week foUowing was spent
on the route, in the cities of Saint Cloud, Brainerd, Wadena, and Park
Eapids, and in getting ready to start into the woods. At Brainerd the
party received a pleasant call from Miss Lotta Grandelmeyer, a great-
granddaughter of William Morrison, who was the first white man to see
Lake Itasca. At Park Eapids the party was increased by the addition to
its ranks of Hon. C. D. Cutting and son, of Iowa; H. E. Cobb, postmaster
and editor of the Hubbard County Enterprise; E. M. Horton, civil engi
neer and surveyor; O. S. Keay, assistant surveyor and guide, and Louis
Delezene, cook.
Saturday morning the journey from Park Eapids was begun, and the
hea-vy-laden wagons roUed over the prairie for a few miles and then
plunged northward into the somber forest. The road is about as bad as

APPEN^DIS. 489
could well be imagined; up and down the steep inclines of the Kettle
Moraine, and over great glacial bowlders, to say nothing of washouts
and stumps and mud-holes. Lake Itasca was reached on the second
day, and as the sun threw his setting rays across its sedgy waters,
tents were pitched on the island where fifty-nine years ago Schoolcraft
landed, and which now hears his name. Lake Itasca is a hody of water
consisting of the anomaly of three arms without a body, radiating from
a point which almost coincides with Schoolcraft Island. The water is
not very clear, but quite deep. The shores are fringed with a few rods
of sedges and wild rice, where one may occasionally catch sight of a
deer reaJy to dai*t back into the forest wbich encircles the lake; now the
banks are steep and covered with birch and poplar, and occasional
pieces of fine pine; now they are low and thickly grown with tamarack.
Monday was spent in moving camp to the ridge of high land separat
ing Lakes Itasca and Glazier. There lay spread out hefore our gaze the
two lakes ; elsewhere a limitless expanse of pine and birch, save in the
opening about us, where grew in gay profusion quantities of solden-rod,
asters, and painted-cup, while of£ toward the water was revealed the
beautiful face of the fringed gentian. By the way, I never saw this
flower in such wonderful beauty aud quantity as along the road on ths
way back; it was a glorious vision of blue.
I think every member of the party, without exception, was surprised
atthe extent and beauty of the Glazier lake as it flrst dawned upon our
view. In size and character, I should say, it very much resembles Lake
Harriet, near Minneapohs. Its shape is roughly oval. Its greatest
length is about one and one-fourth miles; its width, from one-half to
three-fourths of a mile. Its area is 255 acres; its depth, about 45 feet.
Many of its characteristics are those of Itasca; the difference between
them lies in the greater height of the hiUs which surround the Glazier
lake and in its much clearer and purer waters.
Lake Glazier is connected with Itasca by a creek. This creek has a
brisk current, and we found carried enough water to afford to our large
boats passage between the lakes. Lake Glazier is fed by at least four
tributaries; they all fiow northward. The largest is Excelsior Creek.
This originates in seepage springs in a tamarack swamp; these springs
were found by measurement to be 8,778 feet from the Glazier lake.
Eagle Creek rises likewise in a tamarack swamp 6,798 feet from
Lake Glazier; 1,518 feet from its source it passes through Lake Alice, a
beautiful little sheet of water, 924 feet in length, and of an area of
about 93^ acres. Deer Creek from its source to Lake Glazier is 6,864 feet.
Horton Creek is a small stream 1,188 feet in length. It has its source
in a lily pond of about 2'/^ acres. Besides these streams there are on
the east shore of the lake several iron springs, one of which pours its
waters in a cascade down the face of fifty feet of a hill.
Lake Glazier is just as worthy of the name of lake as is Itasca, and in
interesting features and picturesqueness far surpasses it Its waters
are full of fish. Casual trolling between the long tramps and exploring
campaigns which formed the daily programme always resulted in the
capture of plenty of pickerel, pike, rock-bass, and croppies. One morn-

490 APPENDIX.
ing, besides numerous smaUer fry, two fish were caught which together
weighed twenty-five pounds. Ducks are not very numerous, but of
course the season is yet rather early. "While speaking of game, let me
not forget to chronicle our two bear adventures. Mr. Bear in both cases
was wise enough to appear before our "amateur" hunters, and both
were relieved, I venture to say, with mere salutes.
The only other important feeder of Lake Itasca is NicoUet Creek,
which enters Itasca about a quarter of a mUe west of the outlet of the
creek from Lake Glazier. This was carefuUy explored and measured
from mouth to source. It drains a tamarack swamp and has several
smaU feeders. Its total length is 7,307 feet. Near its head it passes
through two smaU bodies of water, which have been caUed "NicoUet's
First and Second Lakes." The former of these, and nearest to Itasca,
is a lily pond of about three acres. The second is a small lake of about
twelve acres in extent, but of no especial beauty or interest. A few feet
beyond this, and one is confronted by a high ridge of land. WhUe gazing
up at the splendid pines which crown its summit, one of our party dis
covered the source of NicoUet Creek by stepping in, up to the knees, in a
spring which bubbles up at its base. Whatever importance NicoUet
Creek may have as a feeder of Lake Itasca, it is certain that this must
accrue to it in virtue of its career below the ridge and this spring.
Itasca is suppUed by two principal sources. One of these di'ains a
tamarack swamp, has nothing worthy to be called a lake in its course,
and has a source 7,-^07 feet from Itasca. The other is a narrower stream,
but fiows from a flne lake, the source of whose principal feeder is 14,106
feet from Itasca.
These are the facts in regard to Lakes Itasca and Glazier, and
their feeders, which our party have to present. Our time has been
principally spent in their careful acquisition, and it was no easy matter,
in this country of tamarack swamps, fioating bogs, underbrush, and
mosquitos, to obtain them.
As to pronouncing judgment in the matter of the Source of the
Mississippi, I, at least, and I think I may safely say each member of the
party, feels that it is not his province. We hope that we have more or
less perfectly presented the facts in regard to the question. Let the
people, by the help of able geographers, use these facts in coming to a
conclusion as to the True Source of the Great Eiver. Albert W. Whitney.
Dr. A. Munsell gives his account of the investigations at
the Headwaters of the Mississippi, in which he participated
as a member of the Second Glazier Expedition;
Everybody knows that in 1833 Henry Eowe Schoolcraft, a distin
guished American explorer and ethnologist, sought the Source of the
Mississippi Eiver. He reached a lake having three sprawling arms and
a central island. Prom this lake, at the extremity of its northern arm,
through an outlet thirty feet wide, the water found an outward flow.
After camping a few hours on the island, he concluded that here was the
Ultimate Source and Primal Eeservoir of the Great Eiver. He inquired of

APPE3»rDIX. 491
his Indian guide the name of the lake, and was told Omushkos—si word
that means " Elk." He then departed, and for fifty years this body of
water, which here-named "Itasca," continued the accepted Source of
the river, the island, meanwhile, being honored with his name.
In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier of Albany, New York, soldier, trav
eler, and author, by reason of information derived from Indians,
became impressed with the conviction that uncertainty yet rested on the
origin of the river, and that its True Source was probably beyond Itasca.
Entertaining this view, he organized a party and proceeded to a further
exploration of the Headwater region. Reaching Itasca, on the twenty-
first of July, 1881, he entered the lake and paddled for Schoolcraft Island,
where tents were pitched that night. Meanwhile, Chenowagesic, his
chief guide, had informed the Captain that some years previously he had
lived in that region, making it his hunting-ground within the distance of
one hundred miles. He also declared that the beginning of the river
was beyond Lake Itasca. On the morning of the twenty-second of July
the search was vigorously commenced. In coasting the lake, two streams
were found having distinct inlets, and four that indistinctly percolated
through bogs. Chenowagesic insisted that one of the two streams near
the extremity of the southwestern arm led to a lake beyond Itasca.
The right stream was at length discovered, and the canoes pushed
through. A lively flow of water soon revealed itself, and, with enthusi
asm, a difficult passage through it was made, when suddenly a most
beautiful lake appeared. This body of water was immediately pad
dled across to a promontory on its southern shore, which, projecting
into the lake, considerably indents its marginal outline. The gen
eral shape was deemed to be oval, and its greatest diameter nearly
two miles. On coasting the lake, three tributary streams were found
and traced to their origins, two of them to springs issuing from sand
hills and one proceeding from a small lake. The streams were at once
named by the Captain, Eagle, Excelsior, and Deer creeks, and the lake
let at the head of Eagle Creek was called Lake Alice. As nothing but
mere feeders fiowed into the newly discovered body of water. Captain
Glazier deemed it to be the Ultimate Source of the Mississippi; that
Itasca received its waters, and, as an expansion of the river only, sent
them onward in their course toward the sea. A few remarks from the
Captain reminded them of the importance of their work, and the effect
it would hai'e in making a new revelation concerning the real Source of
America's greatest river. At the instance of Mr. Paine, a member of the
expedition, and by a unanimous vote, with the exception of the Cap
tain's, the body of water was formally named Lake Glazier. Six volleys
were fired over the water — a volley for each member of the party. . . .
The announcement of the new Source was soon made known to the
world, and Captain Glazier, already noted as an author and traveler,
became still more so by the publication of another book, entitled
"Down the Great River." Geographers, scientists, and map publishers,
as well as the settlers of Northern Minnesota, immediately accepted the
truth of a new Source to the Mississippi.
But the Minnesota Historical Society, which vaunts itself as "a

492 APPEKDIX.
co-ordinate branch of the State Government," several years after the
announcement of the location of the True Source of the river, bestirred
itself to controvert and deny the genuineness of the discovery, and
denounced the discoverer as an "adventurer" and a false guide. By
lobbying the Legislature, the Society procured the passage of a law pro
hibiting the use in the public schools of the State of any map or geogra
phy showing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi. Captain
Glazier, however, stoutly adhered to his position, would retract nothing
from his published statements, and the controversy waxed warm. An
agent of the Society was dispatched to the Headwaters, with instrufc-
tions to report on the real Source of the river, and disprove the Glazier
theory. This agent complicated matters on his retum by reporting four
new sources to the river. One of these was ascertained by hypothet-
icaUy tunneling a ridge, following ooze through a bog, aud ultimately
draining from a distant lake by tapping its bottom. Another, in very
despair, gave the source a heavenly origin, the agent reporting that
" AU our rivers have their sources in the clouds," a truism scarcely com
ing within the definition of " physical geography." The map publishers
intensified the controversy, it is conjectured, with a view of delaying
any necessary changes in their maps. They also arranged to have the
recent International Congress at Berne, Switzerland, conservatively pass
on the Source question of the Mississippi, and name Itasca as stiU the
origin of the river. All this, and other reasons, gave rise to the
SECOND OLAZIER EXPEDITION.
For the purpose of ascertaining accurately the actual Source of the
Mississippi, several geographers, scientists, editors, and others, volun
teered to accompany Captain Glazier, in August, 1891, to the Headwater*
of the river. AU preparations being completed, the party left Park
Eapids, a frontier town nearest to the Headwaters, on the morning of
the 22d in three wagons. The way was rough and through a wilderness.
Twenty mUes ont, we camped for the night. Next day, the 28d, reached
Lake Itasca iu the afternoon, and camped for the night. A permanent
camp was estabUshed the 24th on the high ridge separating Lake Glazier
from Lake Itasca. Camp Trost, on Lake Glazier, was named in honor of
Ered J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio, a skiUed photographer and experienced
spoi'tsman. He has taken one hundred views in the headwaters region of
scenes in camp and woods, and places of prominence and interest. The
tents on Camp Trost were occupied seven days, or rather nights, for
during the day aU hands were constantly out and hard at work in their
respective spheres. Exploring squads went in every direction, all over
the so-called Itasca Basin, and noted every rivulet, spring, bog, pond,
and lake. The two surveyors chained the length of all the streams and
triangulated for distances across water. Whitney, the botanist, indus
triously inquu'ed into the flora, not neglecting the fauna, of the region,
and also determined the fiowing volume of water at important points
connected with the inlets of feeders to Lakes Itasca and Glazier, and
the inlets and outlets of the main Mississippi stream in this, the
locality of its infancy. Dr. Harrison gathered mineralogical and

APPENDIX. 493
small zoological specimens while aiding in the common work of
exploration. The journaUsts observed, took notes, and were more or
less active, in company with the surveyors, in taking measurements of
affluents and locating springs. Briefly, and by way of summary, the
work done by this Expedition may be given: First, Pine Creek, named
by Captain Glazier in 1881, and since variously caUed "Nicollet Eiver "
and by other names, was thoroughly investigated. Its upward trace
commences at the extreme end of the southwestern arm of Itasca. The
trace was followed into, and out of, a Uly -covered pond of about three
acres; thence into, and out of, a larger, or twelve-acre collection of
water, from which it proceeds to its origin in a boggy spring at the base
of a high ridge that divides the valley of this creek from the basin of
Lake Glazier and its numerous feeders. The entire length of the creek
was chained and found to be 7,307 feet, or about a mile and two-fifths.
Over the ridge and beyond, in the general depression on the hither side
of the Hauteurs de Terre, or heights ot land, that divides the Mississippi
water-shed from that of the Red Eiver of the North, numerous isolated
bogs, ponds, lakelets, and lakes were seen and noted.
Examination next began at the mouth of the Infant Mississippi — a
perennial stream that unites Lakes Glazier and Itasca. Upward, its
course begins near the end of the southwestern arm of Itasca, on the
east side, and leads into Lake Glazier. Laxe Glaziek is a beautiful body
of water, having a surface of 355 acres and a depth of 45 feet. Next
to Itasca it is the largest single collection of water in the headwaters
region. In general shape it is oval, with longer and shorter diameters
of nearly two miles and one mile. Its waters are deeper than those of
Itasca, purer, and more abound with flsh. The growth of vegetation
and forest about it is of the same general character as that which borders
Itasca, but is more dense and green. The outUne is gently irregular and
pleasingly sinuous. A bold rocky promontory, fifty feet high, rises from
the lake on the south side, while a high ridge elevates the bank on the
east. Though perhaps a hundred pure springs pour through their
rivulets into Lake Glazier, its main feeders are:
Eagle Creek, leading out at the northwest, proceeding directly west,
and then south to its origin in Lake Alice; which, further, has a rill
feeder 1,518 feet long. The entire distance of the commencement of the
minor feeder to Lake AUce, from the niouth of the Infant Mississippi in
Lake Itasca, is 9,878 feet.
Excelsior Creek, directly south, has a length of 8,788 feet, and its
origin, a spring, is 14,106 feet distant from the mouth of the Infant
Mississippi. Deer Creek and Horton Creek are both on the south, the fonner
rising in a spring and the latter in Whitney Pond. Deer Creek is 6,864
feet long, and its source is 13,904 feet from Itasca. Horton Creek is
1,188 feet long, and its source, Whitney Pond, 396 feet. The area of
Whitney Pond is two acres, and the distance to its extreme southern end
from Itasca is 8,492 feet.
Shube Spring is situated on the hiUside of the east bank of Lake
Glaaier, at a horizontal distance of probably 80 feet, and vertical eleva-

494 APPENDIX.
tion of 40 feet above the lake level. Its stream would fUl a three-inch
pipe, and leaps in a Uvely rush down the hill. It has been named after
Mr. Shure's wife, Florence Cascade. The spring and cascade are objects
of pleasing interest, and the water strongly chalybeate.
Other features of Lake Glazier may be aUuded to. The promontory
causes a pronounced bay on each side of it. The beach on the south
eastern side is composed of fine white sand, which reminds one of the
seaside. Near the southwestern shore is an eagle's nest in the top of a
Norway pine. It appears to be about five or six feet in outside circum
ference. Captain Glazier saw it there iu 1881, and Chenowagesic told
him it had been there for forty years previously. How many eaglets
have been, and wiU be, nurtured in that maternal home may be left for
the imagination to conjecture.
A most pleasing eflEect is experienced by the beholder on seeing this
lake the first time, and particularly from any of the high lands sur
rounding it. He is surprised at viewing so large a sheet of water, and
his attention is riveted many moments on its unusual beauty.
On August twenty-ninth, the investigating labors of the Expedition
closed, and in the afternoon the party assembled ou the promontory.
There Captain Glazier addressed us. He reviewed the history of the
Mississippi's Source, and compUmented his hearers on the care taken
and the diUgence shown in the examination of the region. He said
their work was important, and would be regarded with interest by every
inhabitant of Minnesota, the Mississippi Valley, this country, and the
geographical world generally. In the final decision of what is the True
Source, geographers would value and consider the work we had done.
Mr. Crane, on behaU of his companions, responded briefly and appro
priately. The Flag which had floated over every camp, and had accompanied
Captain Glazier to the same region in 1881, was hoisted to a tree-top to
remain as a memento of the Second Glazier Expedition. Twenty-five
voUeys were fired as a salute — six for the party of 1881 and nineteen tor
the party of 1891. All then entered the canoes and enjoyed a leisurely
•stroU of observation at an hour when the air was balmy, the breeze
gentle, and the declining sun cast a glow of cheerful light over beauti
ful Lake Glazier.
Sunday, August 30th, was spent quietly in camp, writing up journals
and preparing for the morrow's retreat toward civUization. Mr. Crane
closed the day with divine service in front of the camp. In an admira
ble discourse he proclaimed the gospel caU to his hearers. When the
sermon and prayer ceased, a spontaneous choir sang " Nearer My God to
Thee," followed by the doxology and benediction. Thus closed our
Sabbath day.
The entire region had been traversed, and every rUl, rivulet, stream,
bog, and coUection of water carefuUy examined. In addition to the top
ographic and hydrographic facts mentioned in this letter, the foUowing
general statements may be made :
Itasca is simply not the Source of the Mississippi ; a perennial stream
connects it with another lake nearly as large, and above and beyond it-

APPENDIX. 495
The largest feeder to Lake Itasca is 7,307 feet long from mouth to
source, while the largest feeder to Lake Glazier is 8,778 feet from mouth
to source, and at the same time its mouth is 8,907 feet from Itasca,
maldng its total length of water surface connection with Itasca 16,314
feet. In view of aU these facts, it is evident that Lake Glazier, a body
255 acres in surface, di-aining the basin in which it lies, and being the
most remote Reservoir receiving and supplying water to the great
stream, should be held to be the True Source of the Mississippi River.
A. Munsell.
From Winfield Scott Shure, correspondent of the Age,
York, Pennsylvania : Lake G-lazzeb, Mini^sota,
August 31, 1891.
Editor the Age: This morning found myself and tent-mate up
before the day, coasting Lake Itasca in search of water-fowl. We
returned before breakfast with a goodly number, but before doing so
paddled our canoe down the Mississippi a few rods from the point where
Dhe river leaves Itasca, and after viewing the winding infant stream, and
vamly wishing we could paddle on and on until we reached the Gulf of
Mexico, retraced our course.
As the dawn grew into early day, and the sun rose in all his splen
dor, a gentle breeze came from the south and fanned the mirror-like
surface of the lake into ripples, and ere long the white-caps ran high.
We therefore deemed it unadvisable to go forward with our freight, or
those of our party least fitted for batthng with a storm; but our leader,
who desired to again gaze on the beautiful lake to the south of Itasca,
called for two volunteers to man a boat and take him and his daughter
and the guide across the lake. Mr. Trost and I responded, and after
coasting it for more than an hour, paddled into the mouth of the Infant
Mississippi— the stream flowing from Lake Glazier into Lake Itasca.
Following the stream untU we encountered a fallen tree across it, we
were compelled to disembark.
In our haste to see the Real Source of the Father of Waters, we
hastened to a point from which the guide told us the lake could be seen.
Mounting the crest of the ridge, I took a sweeping glance at the lake
before us, then turned my attention to our leader and his daughter.
Picture in your mind Captain Glazier ""s delight as he realized that he
had again, after ten years, reached this spot, and had been able to bring
with him men from all parts of the coimtry; men who would honestly
investigate, and who were competent to judge, and render an impartial
decision on the question at issue between him and his critics. Picture
his satisfaction at this moment when, after men had said, *' There is no
such lake in existence;" "nothing but a mud-hole which dries up
entirely in the summer; " '*has no connection with Itasca," and many
other things of like character, he was able to show to honest men a
beautiful, well-defined lake, running ofE in the distance nearly two miles
from where we stood, covering an area of 255 acres, and connected with
Itasca by a permanent stream, up which we had just run our boat
bearing five persons.

496 • APPENDIX.
All freight and passengers had been landed on the ridge, a camp-site
selected, tents pitched, and many of the odd turns necessary to camp
comfort had been attended to, and when finally the ' * Stars and Stripes "
had been hoisted over our encampment, and the shades of evening
began to deepen into night, we were settled in our permanent quarters-
Camp Trost.
On the evening of the above date, as we all sat around the camp-fire,
our leader addressed us briefly, referring to the purposes of this, his
Second Expedition, and the pending questions for settlement. He said
his desire was that each one woidd so thoroughly explore the country
surrounding the Mississippi's Source, that they would all be prepared
and qualified to render an intelligent and a decided verdict. He also
expressed his willingness to place the result entu-ely in our hands.
At "roll-call" the morning of August twenty-fifth, all expressed a
desire to see Pine or Nicollet Creek, to which a pretended investigator
has lately tried to give prominence, and to that point we first directed
our steps. The surve3'"ors chained the creek, measui'ed its width and the
volume of water. About a mile from the point where it enters Itasca,
we came to a, pond about three acres in area, and covered with lily-
pads. Passing this pond, a short distance farther on we came to a
second lakelet. These two ponds, or lakelets, are the so-called Nicollet's
"First and Second Lakes." ''NicoUet's Third Lake" is divided from
the former two by a ridge about fifty feet high. I am firmly of the belief
that if geographers can find nothing of more importance beyond Itasca
than Nicollet Creek, Schoolcraft's lake" would still claim its old distinc
tion. Going farther south a distance of six miles, we came to Lakes
Whipple, The Triplets, Morrison, and Hernando De Soto, in turn, the last
named pronounced by the " investigator " above referred tothe Source
of the Mississippi. Notwithstanding all traces of running water tribu
tary to Itasca had stopped at "Nicollet's Second Lake," we were all
curious to see " Lake Hernando De Soto." Imagine our disgust when,
after a tramp of six miles, through a forest almost impassable, which
took us five hours, we saw the lake— the place where a lake had been
— a lake with three arms, two of which had dried up ; a lake having
neither inlet nor outlet. We felt we had been duped by misrepresenta
tion into this toilsome, fruitless journey. We next turned our attention
to Lake Glazier and its feeders.
One by one the questions giving motive to our toilsome undertaking
are answering themselves. There is a lake beyond Itasca, well defined,
and surrounded by high hills; a lake with five permanent feeders, two
of which have their origin in ponds as large as "NicoUet's Second
Lake." Lake Glazier, the one referred to, has an average sounding of
forty-five feet, and a sm-face of 255 acres. It is connected with Itasca
by a stream twenty feet in width. AU this is the result of careful surveys.
After a thorough investigation, and in view of all the facts, together
with fuU cognizance of the geographical definition of the source of a
river, I, with every member of the party, am prepared to say that Lake
Glazier is the Som-ce of the Mississippi; that Captain Glazier was right
in 1881, as has been verified in 1891. He was the first to coast this lake

APPE]isrDix. 497
and explore its feeders, and the first to establish its true relation to the
Mississippi. He was the first to map it and its afiluents, and to make its
existence known to geographers and the world. Schoolcraft was not the
first white man to see Itasca, yet he was the first to coimect it with the
Mississippi, and to him is accorded the merit of the discovery of the sup
posed source. In like manner should be accorded to Captain Glazier the
credit of discovering the True Source of the river.
Saturday, August twenty-ninth, our investigations atthe Headwaters
were completed, and in the afternoon we aU assembled on the picturesque
promontory at the southern end of Lake Glazier. Here the Captain
addressed us, and reviewed his labors in 1881, and ours in 1891. He
appealed to us in the strongest terms to be just, candid, and unbiased
in rendering our verdict to the public as to what we honestly believed to
be the extreme head or True Source of the river.
The report of the surveyors was then read, and the members of the
party, without a single exception, expressed their fuUest concuixence
with it.
Sunday we rested, and in the afternoon reUgious service was con
ducted by Rev. H. Crane, in front of the camp and facing Lake Glazier.
August thirty-first. We break camp this morning and start on our
journey back to civilization and our homes, and if we are worn and
sunburnt, we Eire aU most happy to be able to report unconditional suc
cess of our trip in every particular. The lake to the south of Itasca,
named in 1881 Lake Glazier, is beyond question the Source ot the
Mississippi. W. S. Shore.

aa

G.
EDITOBIAL COMMENT.
The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the
Mississippi evoked much favorable comment f i om the press.
Credit was awarded the Explorer for his praiseworthy eflEort
to setlle the long-disputed question of the True Source of the
Great River and the successful issue of his enterprise. Cap
tain Glazier's Report in full, on the return of the Expedition,
was addressed to many of the Geographical and Historical
Societies, and published in most of the leading journals of the
country. Minnesota enjoys the distinction of having within her bor
ders the cradle of the mighty river, and is entitled to he heard
first. We therefore quote from the columns of her leading
journals, beginning with the Dispatch of Saint Paul, in which
the following editorial introduced the Glazier Report on the
Results of the Expedition of 1891:
" Elsewhere in to-day ^s issue of the Dispatch is given the Eeport of
Captain WiUard Glazier to the President of the American Geographical
Society upon the Source of the Mississippi lliver. It is a long docu
ment, but should not be briefly glanced at on that account. Captain Gla
zier has the pleasing faculty of arranging facts and figures in a most
effective and entertaining manner, and of expressing himself clearly
and forcibly. There is not a dry or prosy sentence in the whole of this
Report. It presents tn very interesting form all the information which
has been gathered relative to an important geographical question upon
which there has been some Uttle difference of opinion.
"The main points of the dispute about the Source of the Mississippi
are quite generally known, and the corroborative Ught which is now
thrown on the claim made by Captain Glazier, after his first visit in 1881
will be received and read with a great deal of satisfaction by the many
who have felt aU along that he was in the right. Even should the facts
now published not be accepted by the opponents of the Captain— and so
bitter and unreasoning is their hostUity to him that it is probable they
wiU decline to accept even tbis Report — the pubUc in general wiU have
benefited much by his explorations.
" The Report opens with a succinct review of the situation prior tq
(498)

APPENDIX. 499
and after his Exploration of 1881. Lake Itasca had long borne the credit
of bemg the head of the Great River, but Captain Glazier was led to the
belief that an error had been made, and that the True Source lay beyond
Itasca. On the twenty-second of July, 1881, he located a basin of water
south of Itasca as the Primal Reservoir, and made public his discovery.
This lake has been since known as Lake Glazier. Its Indian name was
Pokegama,— the ' place where the waters gather. ' His announcement of
the finding of a Eeservou- beyond Itasca was greeted with a storm of
criticism and unbelief by unfriendly and jealous parties, and he has had
to stand the abuse of those who had no ground for argument. ' The antag
onism, ' he says, ' thus developed by an honest attempt to establish a geo
graphical truth, together with the fact that, even at tbis late day, some
6f our leading educators still beUeve in the error of Lake Itasca, led ijie
to decide upon another visit to the Itasca Basin, having for its object
the most thorough investigation and a final settlement of the vexed
question wUch had occupied the attention of geographers for over ten
years.' " He then proceeds to describe his preparations for the Second
Expedition, and introduces us to the members of his party, all gentle
men of education and good standing, whose indorsement or refutation
might be accepted without question. They set out on August seven
teenth, 1891, and lost no time in making their way to the scene of action.
" Having reviewed the explorations of those who preceded his earlier
visit, and briefly referred to recent investigations, he presents in detaU,
from his daily field-notes, the observations of his Second Expedition.
One noticeable feature of these field-notes is the very evident desire
manifested by Captain Glazier to be accurate in aU his measurements
and thorough in his investigations. Honesty of purpose is everywhere
apparent. The daily work is minutely, but not tediously, described, and
the Report embraces a vast quantity of valuable information. Sub
joined to it are the individual indorsements of aU the members of the
party. "Whatever may be the flnal outcome of the investigation, it can not
be successfuUy disputed that Captain WiUard Glazier has done more than
any other explorer to demonstrate the absolute correctness ot the loca
tion of the Head of the Mississippi. More than ten years ago he fltted
out an Expedition at great expense, and after careful research and scien
tiflc investigation presented the results of his explorations, tending
to overthrow the estabUshed or accepted claim that Lake Itasca was the
Fountam-head of the Great Eiver. His exhaustive treatise was at once
made a theme of universal discussion, and for a considerable period it
was the one important question written and talked about by the leading
geographical students of the country. Like all modern innovations,
however. Captain Glazier's claims were subjected to severe and search
ing criticism, and by some to ridicule and virulent opposition.
" ' Who was this daring discoverer who ventured to take issue with
the history and traditions of the early decades? '
"The fact that the published reports of Captain Glazier raised such
9, cyclonio outburst was in itself sufficient to prove that Us olaiins were

500 APPENDIX.
worthy of consideration, and notwithstanding the pronounced opposition
of a few whose opinions were considered valuable, the new theory was
accepted by most of the leading geographers.
" Thus the contention has been going on ever since the First Expedition
of 1881. Last summer Captain Glazier again organized an expedition
and spent some time at the Headwaters, with the result that every
member of his expedition conflrmed his claim in regard to the True
Source of the Eiver."

The Winona BepuUican in February, 1893, published
Captain Glazier's report in full, preceded by the following
editorial: " The Eeport of Captain WiUard Glazier's Second Expedition to the
Headwaters ot the Mississippi, herewith pubUshed, is a paper of sufii
cient popular interest to insure for it a general and an attentive perusal.
The circumstances attending this second visit of Captain Glazier to the
Source of the Great Eiver are more or less famiUar to the- readers of the
Eepublican, but in the Report now made pubUc they are so succinctly
yet clearly reviewed as to give the narrative a new and personal interest
that attached to no preceding reference to the subject uuder notice.
For half a century Lake Itasca had been regarded as the source of the
Mississippi, but Captain Glazier was led to the belief that an error had
been made, and that the True Source lay beyond. In July, 1881, he
personally visited the Headwaters, and after a close and careful explora
tion located a lake south of Itasca as the Primal Reservoir. This lake,
known to the aboriginal inhabitants of that region as Pokegama, has
since been placed on many maps, and is generaUy designated Lake
Glazier. The claim of Captain Glazier to having made this discovery
was vigorously contested by certain interested parties, and the dis
coverer subjected to the severest personal criticism. Undismayed by
the assaults made upon him, Captain Glazier determined to fortify his
position by a second and stiU more thorough investigation. On this
occasion he was accompanied by a party of gentlemen of education and
high standing in the several communities where they reside, whose
indorsement or disproof of his views might be regarded as conclusive
in relation to all the physical facts coming under observation. The
result is now before the pubUc and the testimony should be weighed
according to its merit. It is particularly to be noted in perusing Captain
Glazier's Report that his observations were carried on with much care
and apparent accuracy. The measurements were made by an expert,
and aU the investigations were participated in, and are unquaUfledly
indorsed by the individual members of the party. Honesty of purpose
is manifest throughout.
" Amid aU the contention aud doubt, thus far one thing is certain: No
such careful and thorough exploration of the Headwaters of the Missis
sippi has been made by any other Investigator as that recently com
pleted by Captain Glazier. If, in the interest of historic truth and geo
graphical aacmax!^, his cjaim is to be ff owned down, the evidence upop

APPENDIX. 501
which it is done ought not to be less trustworthy or convincing than that
presented in his behalf. We strongly recommend a careful perusal of
his Report, whioh is addressed to the Hon. Charles P. Daly, LL. D.,
President of the American Geographical Society."
Prom the Washington Star:
"The question of what lake or stream is the True Source of the Father
of Waters is one that has agitated geographers for several years. The
inclination is to accept the results of Captain Willard Glazier's explora
tions—that of 1881, conflrmed and extended by that of 1891— as conclusive.
The history of the discovery of the Source of the Mississippi, while not
so thrilling as the history of the discovery of the source of the NUe, is
more interesting and important to Americans.
" Before Schoolcraft's report of 1832, the existence of the Source
in Lake Itasca, or its vicinity, was not known. Although several sur
veys were made subsequently, it was not until the Glazier Expedition of
July, 1881, that the Source was flnally located south of Itasca in a com
paratively large lake caUed after the discoverer. If geographers were
not inclined to trace the sources of rivers, where possible, to lakes,
rather than to flowing streams. Excelsior Creek, the longest feeder of
Lake Glazier, would be considered justly as the Fountain-head of the
Great Eiver of North America."
Prom the Davenport Democrat:
" Dr. Charles E. Harrison is at home again after his wanderings
about the Headwaters of the Mississippi as a member of the Glazier
party, representing the Davenport Academy of Sciences. He had f uUy
as interesting and instructive a trip as he expected, and is glad he went,
" The party was composed of between flfteen and twenty persons,
among them Miss AUce Glazier, the only daughter of the head of the
Expedition. The start was made from Minneapolis, August seventeenth.
The train was left at Park Rapids, and wagons were taken to Lake
Itasca, which was reached August twenty-third. The wagon journey
was fraught with much interest, but not with much comfort. The party
walked by preference. They do not have paved streets up there, but
some of the roughest country to be found in the Mississippi Valley; no
settlers, no roads, no civiUzation; but wilderness, hard work, deer, and
bears. A member of the party shot a bear en route.
"Camps were pitched after the first day on a height of land sepa
rating Lake Itasca from Lake Glazier. Thence the party explored the
region. The two surveyors went ahead and the members of the party
followed. Dr. Harrison saw enough to convince him that Captain Gla
zier has a valid claim to the honor of being the man to make the first
announcement that Lake Itasca is not the Source of the Mississippi, but
that the other lake to the south of it is. Lake Itasca had been visited
by white men at the very opening of the nineteenth century, but it
remained for Schoolcraft, in 1832, to make the announcement that it was
the source. Captain Glazier was the man to make formal announcement
of the fact that the lake to the south, and not Itasca, is the True Source.

502 APPENDIX.
Dr. Harrison is weU satisfied that Lake Itasca has little relation to the
Mississippi beyond that possessed by Lake Pepin; the river simply flows
through it. The members of the party, after looking over all the ground
in the most careful manner, came to the conclusion that the claim of the
Captain is well founded, and that the majority of the geographers have
done the right thing in following his lead as they have done. Dr.
Harrison says he went there with the intention to be critical and find
fault, if there were any evidences of crooked work on the part of Cap
tain Glazier, but admits that all was fair and square, and there is nothing
to indicate that Captain Glazier is not fully entitled to the credit he
claims."" From the Minneapolis Times:
" Lake Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi Eiver.
*' That is the unanimous verdict of the gentlemen who have just
returned from an Expedition to the Headwaters of the Great River.
They have made a report of their explorations in which facts are given
which establish to their satisfaction the fallacy of all other theories.
That Lake Itasca is only the approximate source of the Mississippi has
long been known. The real source has been the subject of a long dis
pute among geographers, Itasca is fed by running water, and the
Ultimate Source of the Mississippi could only he ascertained by tracing
the 'sources*' of Itasca. In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier explored the
waters about Lake Itasca, and came to the conclusion that the lake now
known as Lake Glazier was the actual source of the big river. Then
some one else traced NicoUet Creek up to the three Nicollet ponds, and
made the contention that the real source of the Mississippi was the last
of these ponds, misnamed lakes. The same party afterward changed
his mind and pronounced ' Lake Hernando De Soto ' to be the Source.
Captain Glazier has never weakened on his theory that the Glazier Lake
is the real Source, and the party above referred to has stubbornly
argued in favor of the ' De Soto Lake.*' The controversy has awakened
great interest throughout the country. A short time ago a party was
organized to explore the Headwaters of the river and ascertain the facts
relating thereto. Captain Glazier headed the expedition, but none of the
gentlemen who accompanied him were prejudiced or influenced in any
way. It was a large party, composed of geographers, scientists, editors,
surveyors, and men of good standing, all of whom, we are informed,
were strangers to Captain Glazier.
' ' The trip through t he wilderness from Park Rapids to the Headwaters
was by no means a pleasant one. It was slow and tedious work to get
the horses and wagons through the wild forest, and the trail was so rough
that the travelers found it necessary to walk the greater part of the dis
tance. After a two days' tramp the expedition reached the east arm of
Lake Itasca about noon on Saturday, August twenty-second. After a
short rest they launched their canoes and conveyed themselves and
their chattels to Schoolcraft Island, on which they pitched their tents
Saturday evening. The party remained on the island over Sunday.
They were a very tired lot of people, and a Sunday's rest was never so
much appreciated by them hefore.

APPENDIX. 503
" The party removed their tents from Schoolcraft Island to the shore
of Lake Glazier Monday morning, and encamped on the high ridge sep
arating that lake from Lake Itasca. Then began the work of exploring
the waters. They made a careful examination of Lake Itasca, and found
that it had no affluents of any consequence except Nicollet Creek and
the stream that connected Itasca with Lake Glazier. Nicollet Creek was
traced to the NicoUet ponds, as far as there was running water. The
distance was carefuUy measured, and it proved to be 7,309J feet from
Lake Itasca to the farthest of the NicoUet lakelets. Then considerable
time was spent in examining Lake Glazier and its feeders.
" It was ascertained that Excelsior Creek was the longest one fiowing
into Lake Glazier, it measuring 8,778 feet. The distance from the mouth
of Excelsior Creek to the creek connecting Glazier and Itasca lakes was
found to be 4,329 feet. The length of the connecting creek measured
1,100 feet. This made a total distance of 14,107 feet from Lake Itasca to
the source of Excelsior Creek. Therefore, if the source of the Missis
sippi is the farthest point from whence there is running water, it stands
out clearly that the source of Excelsior Creek is the source of the Missis
sippi. And as Excelsior Creek is merely a feeder to Lake Glazier, that
lake should figui'e as the Real Source of the Great Eiver. These were the
conclusions of all the members of the expedition, without exception.
" The expedition did not overlook the ' De Soto Lake.' A long tramp
from the south shore of Lake Glazier over a swampy ridge brought the
party to this so-caUed lake. They made a thorough examination of it,
and failed to find that it had either inlet or outlet. In fact, the party
beoame thoroughly convinced that the ' De Soto ' was nothing more
than a dead lake or pond. How any of its boggy water could possibly
reach the Mississippi is a question they were unable to solve."
Prom the Philadelphia Telegraph:
"The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi
Eiver returned to Park Eapids, Minnesota, last evening. The party
claims that the Glazier Lake is the Eeal Source of the Great Eiver of
North America. It was found to cover an area of 355 acres, and is con
nected with Lake Itasca by a creek about 1, 100 feet long. The lake is fed
by four tributaries, besides which streams there are, on the east shore,
several iron springs. The only other important feeder of Lake Itasca is
NicoUet Creek, which enters Itasca about a quarter of a mUe west of the
outlet of the creek from Glazier Lake. Itasca is suppUed by two princi
pal affluents. One of these, Nicollet Creek, drains a tamarack swamp,
has nothing worthy of the name of a lake in its course, and has a source
7,307 feet from Itasca. The other is a narrower stream, but fiows from
a fine lake, the source of whose remote feeder is 14,106 feet from Itasca."
Prom the Dubuque Trade Journal:
" It is a singular fact that neither governments nor reUgious associa
tions have ever achieved anything remarkable in aid of discovery in
either the realm of abstract or concrete science. History shows that
individual energy and talent have always led in innovations and the
establishment of principles that make for truth and the enlightenment

504 APPEISTDIX,
and welfare of mankind. On the part of the Government, when not
willing to he a bar to progress, and designedly obstructive, its efforts are
usually placed iu the hands of mediocre persons because they happen to
be partisans seeking the emoluments of position and influence. Religious
associations, being sectarian and dogmatic, are apprehensive, and fear
the least interference with their doctrines, mysteries, and faith. Within
their domain anything conceived to be like * vain babblings and opposi
tions of science falsely so-called,' is not tolerated, and short work is
made of it by persecution. The reason of all this is not inscrutable, for
neither science nor philosophy is within their purview. The proper
functions of government are the conservation of the State and the pro
tection of hfe, liberty, and property of the individual, as far as may be
consistent with the enjoyment of the same rights by others. The
function of the religionist is to conserve the faith and practice its duties.
"It is the individual initiative, self-denying, and laborious action that
solves difficult problems, makes successful discoveries, and accomplishes
anything that ultimately results in increasing knowledge. That their
efforts should ever be interfered with, cramped, or impaired by hire
lings of official and corporate regulation, is indeed to be regretted by
every one who sincerely desires the benefit of truth and the welfare of
his race.
" An instance of the kind alluded to is now presented in Minnesota. A
controversy is raging there concerning the True Source of the Missis
sippi River, between Captain Willard Glazier and the Minnesota His
torical Society. The latter claims to be a ' co-ordinate branch of the
State Government,' and its partisan officials leisurely enjoy place and
profit. Long ago the Society heard that Itasca was a lake in their State,
which Schoolcraft visited in 1832, and supposed it to be the Source of
the Mississippi River. This, the paid employes of the Historical Society
accepted without disturbance to its somnolent movements, and rested in
contented ignorance of the Tnie Source, as weU as of everything else in
that region. The chronic hypnotism of the Society continued untU 1881,
when Captain Willard Glazier, a New Torker, having doubts about
Itasca being verily the source, explored the Headwaters of the river, and
exploded the error. This being a geographical matter, and the fact of
the newly discovered Source a geographical truth, one is puzzled to know
what a purely historical society had to do with it. Nevertheless, the
Society aroused itself from its Rip Van Winkle slumbers, and boldly
proclaimed a denial, and stoutly insisted that Itasca was the ultimate
origin. Since then, at the expense of the tax-payers, some examination
about and beyond Itasca has been made under the management of one
J. V. Brower. It was clearly seen that Itasca must go out into the cold.
But jealousy of the foreigner would not permit the acceptance of his
discovery, and another Source of the river must be devised. So, entirely
ignoring the beautiful Lake Glazier, 255 acres in area, the Minnesota
Falstaff first glanced at ' the clouds, the source of all dur rivers,'
then traced a feeder of Itasca a short distance through two ponds to a
spring at the foot of a hill. Hypothetically, the hill was tunneled,
and onward the hero went. Isolated bogs, ponds, and lakelets were

APPEIvTDIX. 505
fouud, aU within a compass of five or six miles square, and situated in a
general depression of ground. Archeeological science now seized
Brower, and to his imagination a glacier once roughly scooped out
this region in which pools, rills, Lake Glazier, Lake Itasca— all— are now
situated. The huge chunk of ice on melting formed a prehistoric lake,
which has since subsided to the present aspect of the locahty of the
Headwaters of America's most noted river. This he proudly named
'Lake Upham,' divided it into ' Greater, Midway, and Lesser Ultimate
Eeservoir Bowls,' and presented his farrago to the Minnesota Historical
Society, as * Itasca Basin, the Source of the Mississippi.' , Finally, the
learned theorizer suggested to his employers that a * legislative enact
ment prohibit unauthorized, erroneous, and deceptive changes in the
State map, so assiduously persisted in from mercenary (!) motives.'
"Now, gentle reader, when you have perused the foregoing, just
remember that while the Minnesota Historical Society was in happy
ignorance of any topography beyond Lake Itasca, Captain WiUard Gla
zier entered those northern wilds and found a beautiful body of water
beyond Itasca, and connected with it by a perennial stream. He correctly
mapped its feeders, stated its relation to Itasca, and pronounced that
body of water the True Source of the Mississippi. This is what the
Society, by its instrument, Brower. seeks to supplant by substituting the
dried hed of an extinct, hypothetic, prehistoric lake, from whose now
three arid and jack-pine covered ' ultimate reservoir bowls ' water is
supposed to ooze into Lakes Glazier and Itasca. Than this can vagary
farther go?'''
From the Chicago Inter Ocean:
" The controversy as to the Source of the Mississippi River has placed
before the public a vast amount of new information of an interesting
character. In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier made an Expedition to the
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and announced that he had discovered
that Lake Itasca could not be regarded as the True Source of the Great
River. He fouud a fine lake to the south of Lake Itasca, since called
Lake Glazier— and which he claimed was the True Source of the Missis
sippi, 3,184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, with an elevation above the
ocean of 1,582 feet. Captain Glazier started from Brainerd, Minnesota,
on the twelfth of July, 1881, intending to go to Lake Itasca, or the Head
waters of the Mississippi, and make a canoe voyage to the Gulf. In the
course of this expedition he discovered the new lake to the south of
Itasca. He started from there in a canoe, and made the long journey
down the Mississippi, reaching the Gulf of Mexico November fifteenth.
On his return he published the narrative of this expedition, and claimed
the discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi.
"August seventeenth last, Captain Glazier and several gentlemen,
interested in the question of the Source of the Great River, left Minne
apolis to make a second survey. They made a careful investigation of
Lake Glazier, and in their Report pronounce it a beautiful sheet of
water over a mile and a half in length and nearly as wide, in extent
355 acres, its depth forty-five feet. Lake Glazier is connected witH

506 APPENDIX.
Itasca by a permanent stream 1,100 feet long. This has a brisk current,
and carried enough water to afford passage to the boats between the two
lakes. The Glazier Lake is fed by four tributaries, the largest of which
is Excelsior Creek, one mile and five-eighths long. A careful report is
also made of NicoUet Creek. The flrst of the Nicollet ' Lakes ' is described
as a pond of about three acres; the second, a lakelet about twelve acres
in extent; the third, beyond a high ridge, is about ten acres in extent.
The party of explorers unanimously decide in favor of Lake Glazier
as the True Source of the Mississippi."
Prom the Albany Knickerbocker:
"Ever since Captain Glazier announced that the True Source of the
Father of Waters was not the Itasca Lake, in contravention of the geog
raphers, he has been made the target of much scientific and non-
scientific abuse. This has frequently been the lot of discoverers and
explorers, from Columbus to Mungo Park — even down to our own
Stanley. "We learn from the Saint Paul Dispatch that the Glazier Expedition
waa in camp on the northern shore of Lake Glazier, Minnesota, August
twenty-fifth. A member of the exploring party writes to our contem
porary an interesting account of the expedition which is being made by
wagon from Park Eapids, the nearest civilized point to the Head of the
Eiver. The party was organized to investigate the grounds upon which
Captain Glazier bases his claim to have located the True Source of the
Mississippi, and is composed of several scientists and geographers. The
correspondent of the Dispatch, whose impartiality may be reasonably
supposed to be above question, has this to say on the merits of the
controvers.y: " 'I may here remark that I have but little faith iu Mr. Brewer's nu
merous and fantastical sources. I have carefuUy watched the nature and
progress of his controversy with Captain Glazier, and can scarcely attrib
ute his errors to misinformation, but rather to an unworthy desire to
disprove by any means, fair or foul, Glajzier's claim to have deflnitely
located the True Source of the river in 1881. I beUeve Mr. Brower has,
at different times, announced several lakes and ponds as sources of the
Mississippi. The conclusion is forced upon me that he is most probably
no nearer the truth in his last venture — some particulars of which are
given in his report to his ExceUency the Governor— than he was in his
flrst. Captain Glazier, on the other hand, in 1881, announced to the
world that the Source of our majestic river was unquestionably in a lake
of comparatively large dimensions lying to the south of Itasca Lake, and
persistently adheres to his announcement, with the full force of con
viction, at the present day. Nothing can move him from his position;
not even the wooden ' monument ' erected by his ambitious adversary
on the crest of the ridge which separates Itasca from the True Source,
by which it is conspicuously evident that Mr. Brower hopes to perpetuate
his own name as the chronicler of a proved error innocently made by the
ethnologist Schoolcraft. I have very Uttle doubt that Captain Glazier's
position on this question wUl eventually be confirmed by the imanimous
concurrence of geographers and competent judges.' "

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF LAKE GLAZIER.

H
INDORSEMENT.
In this last section of the Appendix, I respectfully pre
sent for the reader's consideration the indorsements and views,
Mrst, of persons long resident iu Minnesota, to whom the
question of the Source of the Great River may be supposed to
be one of more than ordinary interest ; and who, from their
proximity to its Headwaters, are, doubtless, in some respects
better qualified to pronounce upon the weight of evidence
adduced in support of the Glazier claim. Secondly, the
Indorsements of geographers, educational publishers, and
others who have given attention to the subject and arrived at
decided conclusions; and Thirdly, the unanimous testimony
of the Committee of Investigation of the Second Glazibii
Expedition, who thoroughly examined aud surveyed every
lake, pond, and stream, and every foot of ground at the
Head of the river, with the single object of locating its True
Source. I.
EESIDENTS OF MINNESOTA.
From Hon. A. B. McGill, Ex-Governor:
"Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the True Source of
the Mississippi seems reasonable, to say the least. I have been a resi
dent of Minnesota twenty-sir years, and never until Captain Glazier's
expedition heard the claim of Itasca being the Source of the Great Eiver
seriously questioned."

Prom Hon. Horace Austin, Ex-Governor:
"I think that it would be a very proper thing to do uuder the circum
stances that Captain Glazier's services should be recognized by the pas
sage of a biU by the Legislature giving his name to the lake whioh is the
Eeal Source of the Mississippi."

From Hon. W. H. Gale, Ex-Lieutenant-Governor, Winona:
"I have been a resident of Minnesota for more than twenty-eight
years, and I believe it was the generally accepted opinion of the people
(608)

APPENDIX. 509
of this State that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Mississippi Eiver,
untu after the expedition of Captain WiUard Glazier, and his pubUcation
to the world that another lake south of Lake Itasca was the True Source
to which lake has been given the name of Lake Glazier. This is now
generally recognized as the True Source and Head of the Mississippi, aud
Captain Glazier as the man who flrst made known that fact to the
world." From F. W. Seeley, Adjutant-General:
"I desire to say, in justice to Captain Glazier, that, having been a
resident of Minnesota for twenty-five years, and quite famiUar with
the geography of the State, it is my belief that he was the first to dis
cover the True Source of the Mississippi Eiver and publish it to the
world."

From Moses B. Clapp, Attorney-General:
"From such information as I have on the subject, I am convinced
that the actual Source of the Mississippi had not been recognized prior
to the pubUshed accounts of the explorations of Captain WiUard
Glazier." From H W. Childs, Assistant Attorney-General:
"There is, in my opinion, no reason or ground for disputing Captain
Glazier's claim to have located the body of water now undoubtedly
regarded as the Source of the Mississippi Eiver, and appropriately namea
Lake Gi.azieb."

From Gus. H. Beaulieu, Deputy U. S. Marshal, District of Minnesota:
"Having been bom and raised in the State of Minnesota, and a resi
dent of White Earth Indian Eeservation, and being familiar with the
Indian traditions, I certify that Itasca Lake had never been considered
the Source of the Mississippi by the best-informed Chippewa Indians.
Although I had never seen any pubUshed maps to the contrary, prior to
the expedition of Captain Glazier in 1881, from the best information I
have among the Indians, I now regard Lake Glazier as the True Source
of the Mississippi Eiver. I regard his chief guide, Chenowagesic, as the
best authority among the Indians regarding the section of country about
the Headwaters of the Mississippi, and consider him thoroughly
¦eliable."

EVom W. 8. Tingle, St. Paul Globe:
"After a study of the Uterature of the subject, I am convinced that
the lake to which the name of Glazier was given by the Glazier explor
ing expedition is undoubtedly the True Source of the Mississippi, and
that Captain Glazier was the first to caU general pubUc attention to th^

610 APPENDIX.

JBVcmi Major Will E. HaskeU, Editor Minneapolis Tribune:
"There can be no longer any doubt, when the question is carefully
considered, that the credit of discovering the True Source of the Missis
sippi belongs to Captain Willard Glazier. Captain Glazier's discoveiy
has now become an accepted geographical fact, and future generations
of school-boys will speak knowingly of Lake Glazier, as we did in our
youth of Itasca."
From Pev. W. T. Chase, Pastor First Baptist Church, Minneapolis:
" There seems no room for reasonable doubt that the actual Source
of the Mississippi had never been recognized until Captain Glazier made
its discovery in 1881."

Frovi Bev. J. L. Pitner., Pastor M. E. Church, Minneapolis:
" I am convinced that the Real Source of the Mississippi was not known
prior to 1881. Iam quite sure the claims of Lake Glazier are not ill-
founded, and in its deep, cool bosom the Great River takes its rise."
From J. S. McLain, Evening Journal, Minneapolis:
"I have no reason to question the claim that the body of water
which bears the name of Laejs Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi."
From Ex-Mayor Pillsbwn/, Minneapolis:
' ' I am satisfied that Captain Willard Glazier was the first person that
discovered, and made public the discovery, of the True Source of the
Mississippi."

From Hon. Samuel E. Adams, Monticello, Member of the Minnesota
Historical Society:
" I have no doubt of the correctnecs of Captain Glazier's statement
and that he discovered the new Source bearing tiis name."
From John H. Elliott, Secretary Y. M. C. A., Minneapolis:
"I have no hesitation in saying that I believe Lake Glazier to be the
Real Source of the Mississippi."
From Hon. J. G. Laujrence, Ex-Senator, Wabasha:
" I certainly beheve Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of dis
covering the True Source of the Mississippi."

From Judge John P. Rea, Ex-Commander-in-Cliief G. A. R,,

" I am satisfied that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Missis
sippi."

APPENDIX. 511
From Judge L, A. Evans, Ex-Mayor, St. Cloud:
" I beUeve Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi."

FVom Albert Shaw, Tribune, Minneapolis:
"Unquestionably, Captain Glazier may claim the credit of having
caUed pubUc attention to the lake beyond Itasca. He was the first who
attached geographical importance to it. That the lake will always be
caUed T,iii?i?. Glazier, I have no doubt; nor do I doubt the propriety of
the name."

From G. M. Wing, Secretary Northwest Indian Commission,
Minneapolis:
"The lake which Captain Glazier has located is, no doubt, more
properly the True Source of the Great Eiver than Lake Itasca. Captain
Glazier was the fii'st to discover that fact, and that should entitle him to
the honor of naming it."

From Bev. Andrew D. Stowe, Rector Trinity Church, Anoka:
"This is to certify that from the testimony of Indians and half-breeds
Uving at White Earth Agency, Minnesota, during ray residence there of
two years, I am persuaded that Lake Glazier, instead of Itasca, is the
Eeal Source of the Mississippi."

From, D. Sinclair, Winona:
"In the autumn of 1862 I spent several weeks in that portion of
Northern Minnesota extending from Crow Wing to Leech Lake, and
the country about Eed Lake, in company with Paul BeauUeu, the well-
Imown Indian guide and interpreter. During a conversation as to the
Source of the Mississippi, Beaulieu informed me that Lake Itasca was
not the Eeal Source of that river, but that a smaUer lake, located a short
distance south of Itasca, was entitled to that distinction. After investi
gating the matter recently, I have no doubt of the genuineness of Cap
tain Glazier's claim to be the person who flrst publicly established the
fact that the lake which now bears his name is the True Source of the
Mississippi Eiver."
From William A. Spencer, Clerk United States District Court, Saint
Paul:
"I have resided in Minnesota upward of thirty years, and untU
recently have always thought that Lake Itasca was the Source of the
Mississippi; but after an examination of the claim of Captain Glazier to
be the discoverer of the True Source, I am satisfied his cl^im is weU
founded."

512 APPENDIX.
From, 0. C. Chase, Chairman County Commissioners, Otter-Tail County:
"From information received, I am fully satisfied that Captain
Glazier was the first person to pubUcly announce the True Source of the
Mississippi."

From John J. Ankeny, Postmaster, Minneapolis:
"Fromthe best information I can obtain, I am persuaded that the
Source of the Mississippi had not been recognized prior to the
published accounts of exploration by Captain Willard Glazier in 1881. I
think, therefore, he is entitled to the credit of the discovery."

From P. P. Swenson, Sheriff, Hennepin County:
"After a residence of thirty-two years in the State of Minnesota,
until recently I have always supposed tbat Lake Itasca was the Source
of the Mississippi Eiver. I am now well informed of its True Source
being Lake Glazier, having personally traversed that section of the
State."

From John F. Peterson, Register of Deeds, Minneapolis:
"1 have resided in Minnesota for the past eighteen years, and fully
believe that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi."

From C. P. De Laithe, Superintendent of Schools, Aitkin County:
"I recognize Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi Eiver.
Have resided in Aitkin for several years."

From J. H. Hallett, Brainerd:
" I recognize the lake discovered by Captain Glazier as the Eeal
Source of the Mississippi. Have been an Indian trader for the past
fifteen years."

From Hon. N. Richardson, Little Falls, Judge of Probate of Morrison
County:
"I have resided ou the banks of the Mississippi for thirty-one years.
Met Captain Glazier at Little Falls with his exploring party, that visited
the headwaters of this river in the summer of 1881. From information
derived from sources that I consider reUable, I regard Lake Glazier as
tbe True Source of the Great Kiver. Have been a member of the
Ilinnesota Legislature for three terms,"

APPENDIX. 513
From O. L. Clyde, First Lieutenant National Guard, Little FaUs:
"I have been a resident of Northern Minnesota for twenty years,
and always supposed that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississippi.
I never heard anything to the contrary untU the year 1881, when
Captahi Glazier explored the Upper Mississippi, and made his report of
the same. I now recognize Lake Glazier as the True Source ,of the
Great Eiver."

FVom Moses La Fond, Little Falls:
"Lake Glazier is now considered the True Source of the Mississippi.
I am one ot the old pioneers of this State, having resided in the northern
section for over thirty-two years, and was a member of the Legislature
m 1874."

From R. Cronk, of the Government Survey, Sauk Rapids:
" This is to certify that I was compass-man on the survey of town
ship 143 north, range 36 west of Sth principal meridian, which embraces
Itasca Lake (the Indian name of which I understood to be Omushkos, or
Elk Lake), and hereby afBrm that Lake Glazier is the only well-defined
body of water emptying into Lake Itasca, and in my opinion is the
True Source of the Mississippi."

From Hon. T. G. Healey, Ex-State Senator, Monticello:
"Have resided in MonticeUo since 1856. I regard Lake Glazier as
the True Source of the Mississippi Eiver, aud it is now so regarded by
the people Uving in this section of Minnesota."

From Freeman E. Kreck, Postmaster, Aitkin:
"1 have heen a resident of Aitkin County since 1881; have been
county auditor for past two years, and for a time proprietor and editor
of the Aitkin Age. Since Captain Glazier's explorations I do not hesi
tate to say that I beUeve Lake Glazier to be the True Primal Eeservoir
of the Mississippi, and I think I voice the sentiment of the majority of
the residents of this section."

FVom A. Y. Merrill, County Attorney, Aitkin:
" I beUeve that the lake claimed to have been located by Captain
Glazier is the Eeal Source of the Mississippi Elver. "
From J. W. Wakefield, Aitkin:
' ' Eesident of Minnesota for thirty years. PersonaUy acquainted with
Chenowagesic. Indian trader more than fifteen years. Thoroughly
famUiar with the Chippewa language. I recognize Lake Glazier as the
True Source of the Mississippi Biver."
33

514 APPENDIX.
From Lyman P. White, Ex-Mayor, Brainerd:
"I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1870. Built the first house
in Brainerd. Have had charge of the town site for the Lake Superior
and Puget Sound Company for sixteen years. I met Captain Glazier on
his Mississippi trip, and fully indorse his claim to have discovered the
True Source of the Mississippi.

FVom W. W. Hartley, Brainerd:
" Have been a resident of Brainerd for the past fifteen years. Editor
and publisher of the Tribune from 1875 to 1881, and postmaster from
1879 to 1886. Met Captain Glazier and his party here in 1881, both
en route to the source of the Mississippi Eiver and on their return
voyage by canoe to its mouth. Have no recoUection of ever having
heard any other than Lake Itasca claimed to be the Source of the
Mississippi prior to the Captain's expedition. Lake Glazier has since
been accepted and is beUeved to be its Source."

From J. H. Koop, Postmaster, Brainerd:
" Have been a resident of this State for sixteen years. Met Captain
Glazier atthe time he made his expedition of discovery to the Source of
the Mississippi, and I recognize the lake bearing his name as its True
Source." From N. H. Ingersoll, Editor Brainerd Dispatch:
" I fully indorse the statement that Captain Glazier was the flrst to
proclaim to the world the True Source of the Mississippi."

From Rev. Fletcher J. Hawley, D. D., Rector of St. PauFs Episcopal
Church, Brainerd:
"I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1880, and have not heard
any one question the truth of Captain Glazier's claim to have discov
ered the True Source of the Mississippi to be in Lake Glazier."

From W. W. De Kay, Red Wing:
" From such information as I have upon the subject, I regard the
lake located by Captain Glazier, to the south of Itasca, as the True
Source of the Mississippi. I have resided in Minnesota for thirty-three
years."

From, William Moore, Superintendent of Schools, Lake City:
"Knowing the facts in regard to Captain Glazier's discovery of the
True Source of the Mississippi, as brought out by pubUc discussion, I am
convinced that he is justly entitled to be considered the discoverer of th©
Source of the Mississippi Eiver."

APPENDIX. 515
FVom George C. Stout, Mayor, Lake City:
" I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fully entitled to the honor
of flrst discovei'y of the True Source of the Mississippi River."

FVom D. O. Irwin, Postmaster, Lake City:
"I am convinced that the actual Source of the Mississippi had not
been recognized before the pubUshed account of explorations by Captain
Glazier; and I regard Lake Glazier as the True Source of the Great
Eiver."

From H. L. Smith, Editor and Proprietor of the Graphic, Lake City:
"I am fully convinced that Lake Glazier is the Eeal Source of the
Father of Waters. Have resided in Minnesota seventeen years."

FVom F. J. Collins, Mayor of Wabasha:
"I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fuUy entitled to the credit
of having discovered the True Source of the Mississippi Eiver. I have
resided in Minnesota thirty-one years."

From Hon. James G. Lawrence, Ex-State Senator, Wabasha:
"I beUeve Captain Glazier is certainly entitled to the credit of dis
covering the True Source of the Mississippi, in a lake above Lake Itasca,
now named after him. Lake Glazier."

FVom D. L. Dawley, Principal of Schools, Wabasha:
" I beUeve Captain Glazier to be the real discoverer of the True
Source of the Mississippi Eiver."

From William Tubbs, Postmaster and Ex-County Auditor, Monticello:
"Have resided in Minnesota twenty-nine years. Lake Glazier is
regarded by the people generaUy of this section as the True Source of
the Mississippi." From W. J. Brown, Principal of the High School, Monticello:
".I consider Lake Glazier to be the True Source of the Mississippi,
and know of no other. I teach the same in the pubUc schools of this
place, as also do my assistants."

Worn Commander A. H. Fitch, Anoka, J. S. Cady Post, G. A. R., Depart
ment Minnesota:
"I am fuUy convinced that the body of water known as Lake
Glazxbb since 1881 is the True Source of the Mississippi, and not Lake
Itasca."

516 APPENDIX.
From J. M. Tucker, M. D., Hastings:
"I believe Captain Glazier's claim to being the discoverer of the
Eeal Source of the Mississippi is just, and have never heard it questioned.
It must stand as one of the facts of history."

From Daniel O^Brien, Police Justice, Hastings:
"I am satisfled that the lake to the south of Itasca, located by Gla
zier in 1881, is the True Source of the Mississippi, and that Captain
Glazier is entitled to whatever credit there is in the discovery."

From J. R. Lambert, Ex-Mayor, Hastings:
"It has been a generally accepted fact that Lake Itasca was the
Source of the Mississippi River, and Uke many others who have pre
ceded me in giving testimonials in favor of Captain WiUard Glazier's
claim as the discoverer of a body of water now known quite generally as
T.AKF. Glazier, and so represented iu many of our standard geographical
works, I cheerfuUy admit that Captain Glazier is entitled to credit as
the discoverer."

From S. Westerson, Chairman Board of County Commissioners,

"It seems to be clearly proven that there is a lake — ^now caUed Latttc
Glazier— which is the True Source ot the Mississippi, discovered by
Captain WiUard Glazier in the year 1881, and that said Captain Glazier
was the first man to make it pubUc. The honor, therefore, in my
estimation, is due to him."
FVom B. B. Herbert, Editor The Republican, Red Wing:
"After a careful examination of the claim made for and against the
reputed discovery of the Head of the Mississippi by Captain WUlard
Glazier, I am convinced that he was the first to question the received
statement that Lake Itasca was its Source, and first to connect the lake
which some respectable geographers have called by his name with the
Mississippi as its Source. Having Uved in Minnesota, on the banks of
the Mississippi, for nearly thirty years, had any other person claimed to
have discovered any other Source than Lake Itasca, I should haT j been
informed thereof."

From S. B. Sheardown, M. D., Winona:
"I beUeve that Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of discovering
the Eeal Source of the Mississippi Eiver. I have been a resident of
Minnesota over thirty-one years."

FVom Judge A. F. Storey, St. Vincent:
"X have no hesitancy in saying that there can be no question but
that Lake Glazier is the True and Primal Source of the Mississippi
River."

APPENDIX. 517
From. James A. Thompson, Postmaster, Leech Lake:
"I am of opinion that Lake Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi.
I have talked on this subject with some of the Indians who accom
panied Captain Glazier on his exploring expedition in 1881, and they aU
say it is the last lake; that they went aU the way in their canoes, and
could go no farther. It is the general beUef here that Lake Glazier is
the Ti'ue Source."

From Paul Beaulieu, United States Interpreter, White Earth Indian
Agency:
" I would respectfully stato that according to the ideas of the people
of this section of country, for scores of years past, ia alluding to Lake
Itasca, which is known only as Elk Lake by the original inhabitants of
this part of the country, was never by them considered as the Head or
Source of the Father of Running Waters, or May -see-see-bee, as it is by
them named. I received a map showing the route of exploration of
Captain WiUard Glazier, 1881, and beuig well acquainted with his chief
guide, Chenowagesic, who has made the section of country explored by
Captain Glazier his home for many years in the past, and who has
proved the truth of his often-repeated assertion, when maps were shown
him, that a smaUer lake above Lake Itasca would in time change a
feature of those maps, and proclaim to the world that Lake Itasca can
not any longer maintain its claim as being the Fountain-head of Ke-chee-
see-be, or Great Eiver, which is called May-see-see-bee by the Chippewas.
The map as deUneated by Captain Glazier's guide, Chenowagesic, and
pubUshed by the Glazier party, is correct; and it is plain to us who know
the lay of this whole country (I mean by us the Chippewa tribe in par
ticular, also the recent explorers for pine) that Lake Glazier is located
at the right place, and is the last lake on the longest stream of the
several rivers at the head of the Great Mississippi."

From. J. O. Simmons, Little Falls:
"Have been a resident of Little FaUs for the past twenty-nine years;
county attorney and justice of the peace for several years. Would state
that I am personally acquainted witb the half-breed Indiau interpreter,
Paul BeauUeu. Have known him since June, 1857, and know him to be a
person of intelUgence, great experience, and personal knowledge of the
northern portion of Minnesota, which up to very recently has been a
vast wUderness occupied only by the Chippewas. Have often conversed
with him relative to the country north of us, and speaking of the
Mississippi, have heard him say that Lake Itasca was not the Fountain-
head; that there was a stream emptying its waters into Itasca from a
lake a short distance above the latter, and which, in his opinion, was the
True Source. Since Captain Glazier's exploration, I accept the lake
bearing his name as the True Source of the Mississippi."

518 APPENDIX. II.
GBOGKAPHBRS, BDUCATIONAL PUBLISHBBS, AKD OTHEKS.
EoTAii Geographical Societt,
London, January 12, 1885.
Captain Willard Glazier, New Tork, U. S. A.
Dear Sir: ... I am happy to be able to send you a copy of the
January number of the proceedings of our Society. . . . Your discov
ery is considered a distinct addition to our knowledge of the geography
of the Mississippi basin, and well worthy of pubUcation by the Society.
Your obedient servant, H. W. Bates,
Assistant Secretary and Editor.

George W. Melville, the famed Arctic Explorer, writes:
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
February 5, 1885.
Captain Willard Glazier:
Dear Sib: Your very interesting paper and map of the discovery
of the Source of the Mississippi came to hand this moming. Having
but a single number of your paper, I can form but an inadequate idea
of your labor and patience, except by a look at your map, which is a
very good one, and shows an immense amount of labor; in fact, I am
astonished at the amount of work done in so short a space of time as is
shown on your track chart.
I am gratified at being made the recipient of your favor; and with
sentiments of the highest esteem and regard for a worthy brother in the
world of science, I am, dear sir.
Very respectfully, George W. Mel-ville,
Chief Engineer, U. S. Namy.
Geographers and educational publishers of America and
Europe have not only made the necessary changes in Iheir
maps of Minnesota, but have expressed their recognition and
acceptance of the Glazier discovery in letters addressed to
friends of the Captain. Among these may be mentioned:
Kand, McNally & Co., George F. Cram, George H. Benedict
& Co., of Chicago; Matthews, Northrup & Co., Buffalo; A. S.
Barnes & Co., Prof. James Monteith, Gaylord Watson, and
Appleton's Encyclopedia, New York; W. & A. K. Johnston,
Edinburgh, Scotland; Macmillan & Co., London and New
York; Warne & Co., London, England; Chambers' Encyclo
pedia, Edinburgh, Scotland; A. Hartleben, Wien, Austria;
P. A. Brockhaus, Leipsic, Germany; W. M. Bradley & Bro.,
Oowperthwait & Co., E. H. Butler & Co., T. Elwood Zell, and
W. H. Gamble, Philadelphia; John LoveU & Son, Montreal,
Canada, and others of less prominence.

APPENDIX. 519
From Maury^s Manual of Geography:
" Page 56. Minnesota is crossed by the ridge or ' Height of Land'
which separates the VaUey of the Mississippi from the northern slope of
the Great Central Plain. On this elevation, 1,600 leet above the sea,
both the Mississippi and the Eed Eiver of the North take their rise, the
one flowing south and the other north. The crest of the ' Height of
Land ' is crowned with lakes of clear water. T.attf. Glazier, one of
these, is the Source of the Mississippi  "

From. Professor J. W. Redway of Philadelphia, an eminent geographer
and scientist: Philadelphia, September 9, 1887.
Captain Willard Glazier.
Dear Sir: . . . Tou wUl have the satisfaction of knowing that
by your exertions and enterprise an error of more than flfty years'
standing has been made apparent. The world owes you a debt for
determining an important question in geography. Sincerely yours,
J. W. Redway.

From Messrs. Harper <& Bros., New York:
Educational Department.
" . . Recent exploration and survey establish the fact that
Lake Glazier has the best claim to the distinotion of standing at the
head of the Father of Waters. School geographies, generaUy, are
being corrected to show it."

From W. db A. K. Johnston, Edinburgh, Scotland, Geographers and
Engravers to the Queen:
"You have the satisfaction of having done a great work iu settling
the vexed question of the Source of your mighty river. For this, aU
interested in geography are indebted to you."

From Rand, McHally tS Co., Map Makers and PubUshers, Chicago:
" As to the Source of the Mississippi, we gave it considerable atten
tion in preparing our new map of Minnesota, and finally fixed it as Lake
Glazier. This, we consider, has the best claim."

From George F. Cram, Map and Atlas Publisher, Chicago:
" I maU you to-day a copy of the corrected map of Minnesota, show
ing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi."

From Messrs. Cowperthwait tft Co., Philadelphia:
"We have added Lake Glazier to our school maps as the Source of
the Mississippi."

520 APPENDIX.
FVcm, Matthews, Northrup <& Co., Art Printers, Buffalo, New York:
" We regard T.AgT. Glazier as the True Source of the Mississippi, and
are so showing it on aU maps, etc., issued by us."
From Fred Warne <& Co., Publishers, London, England:
" Pray accept our very cordial thanks. The alteration in the Source
of your great river hfts been noted, and we shaU gladly avail ourselves of
the information to make the correction in our atlases."

FVom Herr F. A. Brockhaus, Leipsic, Germany:
"Captain Willard Glazier.
" Dear Sir: I beg to present my sincere congratulations on your
important discovery of the True Sojirce of the Mississippi Eiver, and
thank you for the map iUustrating your expedition."

From A. S. Barnes c& Co.'s " Complete Geography,^'' New York:
"The Source of the Mississippi is Lake Glazier, a small lake from
which water flows into Lake Itasca, which until recently was thought
to be its Source."

From the University Publishing Company, New York:
" We think Lake Glazier is important enough to outrank Itasca as
the Source of the Mississippi."

From W. M. Bradley d: Bros., Philadelphia:
"Lake Glazikb appears on our large Atlas of the World, and on
MitoheU's Atlas, as the True Source of the Mississippi."

FVom John Lovell db Son, Educational Publishers, Montreal:
"The testimonials from leading citizens of Minnesota, and others,
tell convincingly in Captain Glazier's favor."

FVom George H. Benedict c& Co., Map Engravers, Chicago:
" T.tifg Glazier is now acknowledged to be the True Source of the
Mississippi, and wiU soon appear as such on all maps."

From Gaylord Watson, Map and Chart Publisher, New York:
" I shaU show Lattis Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi on my
maps." 
From P. CShea, Catholic Publisher, New York:
" I have come to the conclusion that Lake Glazier is the Trui
Source of the Mississippi, and intend to give it as the Source in the new
editions of my geographies."

APPENDIX. 521
From Geo. H. Adams <&Co., Geographical and Art Publishers, New York:
" We recognize Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi River.
We beUeve Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the True
Source Is now very generaUy admitted by aU map publishers of this
country." Fi-om Map and School Supply Company, Toronto:
" We consider Lake Glazier the Source of the Mississippi Eiver, and
are having it appear on aU our latest maps as such."

From John S. Kendall, President National School Furnishing Company,
Chicago:
"Captain Willard Glazier.
" Dear Sir: I am glad to see the entire narrative of your voyage
" Down the Great Eiver " in book form. There is no doubt about your
expedition having added largely to our rather Umited stock of infor
mation regarding the country around the Headwaters of the Mississippi.
I deem it a graceful and fitting compliment to give your name to the
lake south of Itasca."

From Colonel George Soule, President of Soule OoUege, New Orleans:
" I recognize the correctness of Captain Glazier's claim, and shall
teach that the Source of the Mississippi is t.attb! Glazier."

From R. L. Abernethy, A. U.,D. D., President of Rutherford College,
North Carolina:
" I am satisfied that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Missis
sippi, and that Captain Glazier is entitled to the honor of the discovery."

From G. H. Laughlin, A. M., Ph. D., President of Hiram CoUege, Ohio:
" Captain Glazier has rendered an invaluable service to the science of
geography. I am glad that the school geographies are being corrected
BO as to indicate T.Aim; Glazier as the Source of the Father of Waters."

From Marcus Ward <& Co., Map and Atlas Publishers, London, England:
" We are having the necessary alterations made in all our maps,
and future editions wUl give T.Agir. Glazier as the Source of the Missis
sippi." FVom M. Dripps, Map and AUas Publisher, New Tork:
"IwiU avail myself of Captain Glazier's discovery by showing on
my future maps of the United States its True Source in Lake Glazier."

522 APPENDIX.

From T. L. Flood, Editor, The Chautavquan, Meadville, Pennsylvania;
" Judging from the vast amount of evidence, I have no hesitation in
saying that I beUeve T.Agw Glazier to be the Source of the Mississippi."

FVom William Collins, Sons (& Company, Publishers, Glasgow, London,
and Edinburgh;
"We shaU give effect to the discovery of the True Source of the
Mississippi in the next issue of our maps."

From H. L. Turner, President, Western Publishing House, Chicago and
New York:
"We shall at once modify our representation of the Mississippi's
Source on our maps of the country, for the reason that we fuUy accept
Captain Glazier's report and claim."

FVom J. R. Spaulding db Company, Map Publishers, Boston:
"We think Captain Glazier's claim as to the Source of the Mississippi
is correct, and Lake Glazier wiU appear as the True Source hereafter in
our pubUcations."
From John B. Alden, Publisher of " Alden'' s Manifold Cyclopoedia"
and " Home Atlas ofthe World,'''' New York:
" Lake Glazier is considered the Head of the Mississippi Eiver, and
is being taught as such in our pubUc schools."

From Prof essor John Jasper, Superintendent of Schools, New York
City:
" Our teachers are beginning to accept T.Airm Glazier as the Source of
the Mississippi." From J. L. Smith, Map Publisher, Philadelphia:
"Having given considerable attention to the merits of the claim pre
sented by Captain WiUard Glazier to have definitely located the Source
of the Mississippi, I am of the opinion that the lake to the south of Itasca
should be recognized as the Primal Eeservoir or True Fountain-head of
that river, and that Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of having
been the first to discover this fact aud caU pubUc attention to it."
From E. H. Butler db Company, Educational Publishers,
Philadelphia:
"We would state that in our own new series of geographies just
pubUshed we make Elk Lake, south of Lake Itasca, the Source of the
Mississippi. We also recognize the fact that this lake is called Lake
Glazier, and we presume that the latter title wUl eventuaUy be
established."

APPENDIX. 523
Prom T. Elwood Zell, Publisher ofZelVs Bnclyclopcedia,
Philadelphia:
"Captain Glazier has discovered the True Source of the Mississippi in
A lake now bearing his name  It would seem that his claim is
undoubted."

From Professor James Monteith, Author of Barnes^ Complete
Geography, etc.. New York:
"The lake known as Lake Glazier is, in my opinion, the Source of
the Mississippi, aud not Itasca Lake. Captain WUlard Glazier deserves
great credit for demonstrating this lake to be the True Source. It is
sometimes caUed Elk Lake, but I prefer to call it T.AgiiT Glazier."
From the Moses King Corporation, Map Publishers, Boston;
"There is a large amount of testimony in favor of Lake Glazier.
Rand, McNaUy & Co., the map-makers of Chicago; Matthews, Northrup
& Co., of Buffalo, with whom we are connected, and others, incorporate
Lake Glazier into their maps as the Source of the Mississippi; and we
incUne to the beUef that the balance of opinion is in favor of this lake as
the True Source."

From Herr A. Hartleben, a leading Publisher of Germany:
"I congratulate Captain Glazier on his important discovery of the
Source of the Mississippi Eiver, and shaU have great pleasure in bring
ing the subject to the notice of our Geographical Society."
From " Alden^s Manifold Cydopcedia," New York:
" Glazier Lake (Indian name Pokegama), a smaU body of water in
Northern Minnesota, the Source of the Mississippi Eiver, which fiows
from it as a stream a few feet wide and connects it with Lake Itasca,
which Ues to the northward. T.Agii^ Glazier is in latitude about 47° N. ;
is 180 mUes in a direct Une northwest from Minneapohs, and not far from
a mUe and a half in greatest diameter. It is estimated to be 1,582 feet
above sea-level, and 3,184 mUes from the river's mouth in the Gulf of
Mexico. Itasca was long deemed the Source, untU the discovery of the
lake beyond by Captain Willard Glazier (born in Fowler, St. Lawrence
County, N. Y., August 32, 1841; great-grandson of a Massachusetts Eev
olutionary soldier, and himself a soldier in the war against secession).
Having heard from the Indians of lakes beyond Itasca, he explored the
region, and in his canoe entered Lake Glazier, July 22, 1881. Thence
he traversed the entire length of the Mississippi in canoes, from its
Source to the Gulf of Mexico."

FVom W. Dundas Walker, Editor, Chambers^ Encyclopaedia,
Edinburgh, Scotland:
"I wUl be glad to take advantage of the information so kindly placed
at my disposal, and congratulate Captain Glazier on his important
discoveiy."

524 APPENDIX.
From Professor D. L. Webster, Editor, Webster^s Encyclopoedia,
Chicago:
" The Glazier Expedition resulted in the location of the True Source
of the Mississippi. That ' Truth is mighty and wUl prevaU,' was never
better evidenced tban in the event which has placed the Fountain-head
of the Great River in the lake beyond Itasca."
The following extract from the "International Encyclo
paedia " places Lake Glazier flrst in the chain of lakes which
constitute the Headwaters of the Mississippi:
"Mississippi Eiver. The sources of this great river are Lakes
Glazier, Itasca, Traverse, or Bemidji, . . . lying among hiUs of drift
and bowlders in the midst of pine forests and marshes."

Fi'om American Supplement to the Encyclopoedia Britannica:
" The Mississippi has its source in Lake Glazier, south of Lake
Itasca, Minnesota, 47"' 84' N. lat., 95° 2' W. Long. The greatest
width of this lake is a mUe and a half, and it is deeper than Itasca, with
which it is connected by a shaUow stream about six feet wide."

From Appleton'' s Annual Encyclopoedia, 1885:
" Lake Itasca, which has been distinguished as the head of the Mis
sissippi for flfty years, must, it seems, yield that distinction to a smaller
lake, about a mile and a half in length by a mUe in width, lying farther
south, discovered by Captain WiUard Glazier in 1881, and named for
him Lake Glazier."

From Armstrong''s Encyclopoedia, Published by F. J. Schulte,
Chicago:
" The necessary changes in regard to the Source of the Mississippi
wUl be made in the next edition of my Encyclopaedia."

Several of the Passenger Agents of our great railways whose
lines run through _ Northern Minnesota have signified their
intention to give Lake Glazibb its proper place on their
railway maps and illustrated time-tables. The following are
a few of the number:
From E. A. Ford, General Passenger Agent, Pennsylvania Lines
West of Pittsburg:
" I have instructed our advertising clerk to call the attention of our
engravers to the fact that the Source of the Mississippi Eiver should
hereafter be shown as Lake Glazier, instead of Lake Itasca."

APPENDIX. 5^6
From J. S. Tebbets, General Passenger Agent, Union Paciflc Bailway:
" I thank you for the information in regard to our railway map, and
have sent instructions to our engravers to make the necessary corrections
in thenext issue, showing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi."

From J. R. Wood, General Passenger Agent, The Pennsylvania
Railroad Company;
" We wUl make the correction in the next issue of the maps issued
by this company which wiU cover the points mentioned by you, namely.
Lake Glazier, the True Source of the Mississippi. Please accept our
thanks."

From J. E. Hannegan, General Passenger Agent, Burlington, Cedar
Bapids, and Northern Railway:
"I shaU arrange to have our map plates corrected so as to show the
True Source of the Mississippi Eiver, and am glad you have called my
attention to this matter."

m.
Repoet of THB Committee Appointed to Sijpbeintbnd
SUKVBT AND INVESTIGATIONS AT THE HEADWATERS
OF THE Mississippi — 1891. Central House,
Park Rapids, Minnesota,
September 2, 1891.
To Whom it May Concern: The undersigned were among the mem
bers of a party who have just returned from a visit to the region around
Lake Itasca in company with Captain Willard Glazier for the purpose ot
investigating it, and ascertaining the facts concerning the Headwaters
of the Mississippi Eiver.
The party, whUe invited by Captain Glazier, were under no obUga-
tions to him, directly or indirectly; and their purpose was to see for
themselves, and to report impartially to the pubUo, upon the facts ascer
tained by personal observation.
The foUowing statement has been formulated.by us as a committee,
and is hereby presented, without Captain Glazier's knowledge:
I. Two streams were found entering the southwest arm of Lake
Itasca— one to the southwest, known as NicoUet Creek; the other to the
southeast, flowing from the Glazier Lake.
H. NicoUet Creek was traversed from its mouth up through
NicoUet's First aud Second Lakes. The creek was stUl farther traced
untu its source was found in a number of springs, to the southeast of
which is a ridge varying in height from twenty-five to forty feet. The
distance from Lake Itasca to these springs was chained and found to

526 APPENDIX.
be 7,307 feet; this being the remotest distance, in that direction, of run
ning water. The ridge was ascended and crossed to NicoUet's Third
Lake, so oaUed, and the region beyond traversed for several miles.
TIT The stream flowing from the Glazier Lake to Lake Itasca was
chained, also the Glazier Lake; and its tributaries were foUowed up and
chained. There are five tributaries to this lake, which is 1,100 feet from
Lake Itasca, as follows: On the east side, fifty feet from the bank
a spring flows in a cascade to the lake. Deer Creek is 6,864 feet long.
Excelsior Creek is 8,788 feet long, making the distance from its source,
through the Glazier Lake to Lake Itasca, 14,106 feet. Horton Creek
is 1,188 feet long, flowing from a lake two acres in area. Eagle Creek
is 4,356 feet long, flowing from Lake AUce, 924 feet long, and Lake AUce
has a tributary 1,518 feet long.
rv. The distance of the most remote running water from Lake Itasca
fiowing through the Glazier Lake to Itasca — the source of Excelsior Creek
— is 6,799 feet more than the distance from Lake Itasca of the most ^
remote running water flowing into Itasca through NicoUet Creek.
V. The Glazier Lake has an area of 255 acres. It is a clearly defined
body of water, many times larger and more imposing than any or all of
the bodies of water emptying into Lake Itasca through NicoUet Creek;
and observation and investigation lead us to the conclusion that the basin
drained by the feeders to the Glazier Lake, and emptying into Itasca at
the southeast corner of the southwest arm, is larger than that drained
by the stream emptying into the south side of the southwest arm—
NicoUet Creek; and that running water can be traced at a much greater
distance from the outlet of the Glazier Lake into Itasca than from the
other outlet referred to.
(Signed) John C. Crane,
Daniel S. Knowlton,
C. E. Harbison,
Fbed j. Trost,
A. Munsell,
W. S. Shure,
A. W. Whitney,
Committee of Investigation of the Glazier Expedition, 1891.
Before closing this Appendix, I may be permitted to say
that, in nothing I have advanced, have I, knowingly, over
stepped the bounds of truth. As the reader will probably
gather, I feel very strongly that an injustice has been done by
certain parties to a citizen who deserved nothing but commen
dation at their hands for his meritorious and disinterested
labor in a fleld neglected by others, and, I may add, especially
by those who have been foremost in attacking him. The con
duct of these parties would have been less open to censure, if
they had refrained from the use of language unbecoming gen
tlemen, and supposed men of learning, and conflned them-

APPENDIX. 527
selves to controverting the position of Captain Glazier by pro
ducing reliable counter-evidence to prove that he was in error
in his conclusions. This, however, being impossible, recourse
was had to abuse of a malignant character, for which there
was no excuse.
As will be seen, Captain Glazier has numerous friends and
supporters throughout the country — men of intelligence and
standing — and I am thoroughly persuaded that among people
generally, competent to entertain an opinion upon the subject
in controversy, an overwhelming number will be found to up
hold his views.
I conclude by reiterating that I am thoroughly convinced
from my own observations made on the spot in the month of
August, 1891, and conflrmed by the competent and disinter
ested testimony of every member of the expedition, that Lake
Glazier, lying immediately to the south of Lake Itasca, is the
Primal Resekvoib, or Ultimate Source, of the Mississippi
River. Peabce Giles.
Camden, New Jebset,
January 24. 1893.

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