sajl _JEM . . . YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Engraved fbrJUlJium'sTou?: Uiro' the Isle o I' Mann. Parallel N:Lat withDownpatrick, Ireland, Ambleside ^u^^^g d Harbour, onfyi "or small Ve/sels 2l£a.uffhold A Scale of EttgKih Statute Miles. icSay p'" ' , Scraans Js* _ LorynefsJvvht "2^re Parallel of Lat. with Kilmore Ifelandvl-ancaster and York, Eng. ', R'Hancor./ifc, Balh: TOUR THROUGH . THE ISLAND OF MANN, m IN 1707 AND 179s ¦, COMPRISING SKETCHES OF ITS ANCIENT AND MODERN HISTORY, CONSTITUTION, LAWS, CQMMEBCE, AGRI- , CULTURE, FISHERY, &C. INCLUDING WHATEVER IS REMARKABLE IN EACH PARISH, ITS POPULATION, INSCRIPTIONS, REGISTERS, ,&C - JOHN FELTHAM. » > > Embellished with a Map of the Island and other Plates. BATH, PRINTED BY R. CKHITWEIL; -, -AND SOLD BY t C. DJLLY, POULTRY, LONDON; JONES, LIVERPOOL ; BROWN, BRISTOL ; WARE, WHITEHAVEN; WOOLMER, EXETER, &C. „ 1798. [Price Seven Shillings.] HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF ATHOL. MY LORD DUKE, CONCEIVING the partiality you must naturally feel for the best interests of the Island of Mann, even if I had not heard you express it very warmly, I mould from thence have been induced to conclude that you would not deem me intrusive, or as act ing improperly, in thus presuming to dedi cate this Tour to your Grace. It appears before you in the state in which it Was addressed to Dr. Hawes; no fa<5l is designedly [ iv ] designedly mistated, nor, I trust, any reflec tion urged that can wound the feelings of a ividual., therefore, your Grace find any amusement in this volume, or deem it not unworthy your protection and patronage, I shall be much gratified. / am, My Lord Duke, very respectfully, - Four. Grace's obedient servant, THE AUTHOR. Bath, Aug. 1798. , ,. CONTENTS. LETTER I, OBSERVATIONS on walking— Rout to and from Liverpool — Situation of the Ifland,of Man — Kings — Lords — Bifhops — Eftablifhments — Governors - - Page 1 to 24. LETTER II. Commiffioners' Report — Allegationsr^-Revemie — Cuftoms — Duties— Illicit practices - - - 25 to 32. LETTER III. Constitution — Courts of Civil Jurifdiction— Spiritual Courts — Juries—Inferior Officers - - - 33 to 44. • LETTER IV., On Agriculture — Quarterlands — Soil— Climate — Tenures — . Mowing— Farms — Roads — Ploughs — Manures— Cattle — Sheep — Pigs — Crops - - - -45 to 58. LETTER V. On Literature — Language — Printers — Scriptures — Hymns — Englifh and Man-ks. Publications on the Ifland 5Q to 72. LETTER VI. Ports — Fairs — Regifters — Population — Vicars — Poft-office— Revenue: — Duties — Imports — Exports — Bounties — Reflec tions - .. • - - - ... 73 to 83, VI CONTENTS. . LETTER VII. On the Fifhery — Salmon &c. — Of Herrings— Boats — Price- Mode of Curing— Exported— Sorts ufed in Italy — A Poem on the Herring Fifhery - ,' - - 83 to 98. LETTER VIII. Abbeys — Clergy — Law-fuits refpe&ing their rights, and the eftablifhment at Caftletowri — Benefactors - 99 to 105 LETTER IX. Bifhop Wilfon's Life abridged — Anecdotes — Letter to Lord Derby- Bifhop Hildefley — Bifhop Wilfon's Works, editions of — Anecdotes of the Rev. Dr. Wilfon and Mrs. Macaulay, and of Mr. and Mrs. Northcote ' - - lOQ'tG'll©, LETTER X. Mifcellaneous — Early Hiftory.: — Its acceflion to England in 1765— Paffage Veflels of the Ifland,&c— Pafs-Coins— Mills - - - - - - - 117 to 125, LETTER XI. Cattle— Birds— Plants— Roads — Inns— Taxes— Rivers— 'Calf —Mountains— Springs— "Domeftick GSconomy— Ladies — Gallantry — Character of the lower claffes— Language — Meeting of their Parliament - - 126 to 138. LETTER XII. Of the Houfe of Keys— Singular Laws— Ceremony on their Promulgation — Ordinances—Attornies fees — Loyalty — Lift of principal Land Proprietors«*-Poftfeript - 139 to 154. PAROCHIAL CONTENTS. VI! PAROCHIAL TOUR. Number of parifhes, page 157- Maughold, 158. Ramiay, 162. Lezayre, 165. Bride, 171. Verfes, 174. Andreas, 176. Archdeacons, 178. Quarterlands, 179. Jurby, 180. Shoals, ib. Curraugh, 181. Weather, ib. Cottages, &c. 184. On Peat Bogs, 185. Ballaugh, }87- Glens, 188. Story of Mrs,B. 192. Kirk Michael, 194,. . Bifhop's-palace, ib. Thurot's action, 195. Regiftry, 198. Runick Infcrip- tion, 201. Turnip Tillage, 203. Learned Men, 204. Kirk German, 205. Gigantick Bones, ib. A particular Cenfus of Peel, &c. 206. Peel, 208. Harbour, ib. Bay and Caftle, 209. Singular Infcription, 212. Tynwald, and St. John's chapel; 213. Keys, ib. Kirk Patrick, 215. Mines, 216. Longevity, 2l6. Kirk Marown, 217- Divifion into Shead ings, 218. Lay Baptifm, 219. Braddon, 11\. Bay, ibid. Infcriptions, 223. St. Matthew's chapel, 224. Strangers Tombs, 225. Douglas,^. Friendly Societies, 226. Fifhery, 227- Former naval ftrength, 228. Light-houfes and new Pier, 229. Seats, 231. Nunnery, ibid. Kirk Oncan, 233. Prices of provifion and labour, ib. Views, 237. Lady Bulk's tomb, 238. Inns, 239. Of the Mefhodifb, ib. Their pre- fent ftate, 240. KirkLonan, 241. Laxey, 242. Mines, ib. and 243. Treafure Trove, ibid. Old Church, 245. Kirk Chrift Rujben, 246. Mines, 247. Calf, ibid. Port Iron, 249. A new difcovery on Fifh, 250. Kirk Arbory, 252. Singular Epitaph, 255. On R. Cottier s wife, ibid. Kirk Santon, 256. Bridges, ibid. Antiquities, 257r Grazing terms, ibid. Rot in Sheep, 258. Longevity, 259. Remarks on this work, 260. Maleix>,ib. Turnip Tillage, 26l . Infcriptions, 263. Caftle- town, 266. Caftle Rufhen, ib. ' New Chapel, 268. Free School, 270. St. Michael's Ifland, ibid. Ballafalla, 27 1. Rufhen Abbey, ibid. Mount Strange, 272. Criminal Law, 273. Sketches of Hiftory, 274. Appendix, Act of Settle ment, 277. Explanatory Act, 287. Postscript, 293. DIRECTION* DIRECTION for placing the. PXAT£>. The Map to front title-page. page Genealogical Table of the Derby and Athol Families 13 Maughold Pillar •''- 7 ' . "T ' , ' ' . • !¦ Plates ,1. and, II: 160 Danifh Monuments&c. Cloven Stones. Plan of Caftle-Rufhen J- Plate III. 266 New Ligfyt-houfe } ERRATA. Page 7, laft line, for mould, read mound. 126, f. IX. r. XI. 135, 1. 8 from the bottom, for the, r. they. 153, put a dafh — . after Ballahot, it not belongingto the next words, 256> 1. Si dele — ' a few years fince.' In the Table, p. 13, f. John late Duke, r. Jirjl Duke, f^" The fluctuations in the military eftablifliment, page 2 1 , may be al ways feen in the lift of the army, publifhed monthly. A TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF MAN. ¦LETTER I. To Wm. H j, Esq; M.'B. SpitaUSquure. toEAR sir, Salijbury, 1798. ' A T length I gratify nly wifties, by fending' you, in a **¦ ¦*¦ collected form, the obfervations I made laft fummer during my tour through the Ifland of Man. Mr. H — k — s, who refided in Ramfay, induced me to accompany him thi ther; and joining him at Bfiftol, we proceeded on foot to Liverpool. Moritz, a German, whofe excurfion in England is trans lated, dbferves, " That a traveller on foot in England is confidered as a fort of wild man, or an out-of-the-way being, who is flared at, pitied, fufpe£ted, arid fhurined, by fevery body that meets him!" I have felt the truth of thefe' remarks. Oh his afkirig why Englifhmen, fo fond of a&ihg up to their own notions and ideas, did not now and then, merely to fee life in every poirit"of view, travel on foot P the anfwer made "was, "We are too rich, too lazy, and too proud." ' Since this, we have done fomething to retrieve our cha racters. I have the happinefs of knowing feveral gentlemen, b who % A TOUR THROUGH who take eonfiderable pleafure in walking ; and others, whofe excurfions are before the public. Mr. Hucks, in his Tour through Wales, 1794, fays, " We are fo completely metamorphofed, that I much doubt " if you would recognize Us through our difguife: we carry " our clothes, &c. in a wallet or knapfack, from which we " have not hitherto experienced the flighteft inconvenience: " as for all ideas of appearance and gentility, they are in- " tirely out of the queftion— our objecl: is to fee, not to be " feen ; and if I thought I had one acquaintance, who would " be afhamed of me and my knapfack, feated by the fire- " fide of an honeft Welch peafant in a country village, I " fhould not only make jjiyfetf eafy on my own account, " but fhould be induced to pity and to defpife him for his " weaknefs," I fhall now notice other modes adopted by pedeftrians, in long excurfions. — The Rev. Mr. Warner (' Walk through Wales,' 1798, 8vo.) had a spencer fitted up with a large fportfman's pocket to carry his, linen, &c. and Mr. C. who accompanied him, had fide-pockets annexed to his coat; but neither anfwered perfectly their wiin.es. A party whom they met had taken another way: ahand- fome leather bag covered with net-work was fufpended from the moulder, and hung under the left arm like a ihooting bag, and proved no inelegant addition to the perfon. Another party had their portmanteau on a little poney which they kept before them; but this was, it feems, '< more plague, than profit ;" and they foon entered into a treaty for its fale. It is requifite that a walker fhould have about him all hi* real neceffaries ; thefe are but few, a fingle change of linen, a pocket map, compafs, &c. which take but little fpace, and may be provided for thus:-— A fmall neat bag made with oil- .THE ILSE OF MAN. 3 oil- cafe and lined, about 1 5 inches every way, made to but ton deep to prevent rain penetrating, and four buttons to faften two fhoulder-belts, will form a Jcnap&ck of ifnaall Weight and attended with no inconvenience, except tthe&lfe fharne which may arife from -its pedlar-like appearance, but which gbod fenfe will foon overcome; but to feejweyou a polite reception and a better bed, yo«u may .carry itt in your handkerchief through a town. This fize is large ^enough for two jperfons, althoughit muft not be lefc for ©uey a %ht l'mall umbrella would be a defirable addition. The counties we pailed through were,. Wilts,. ,SoQSEifet, Glqucefter, Monmouth, Hereford, Salop, Chefkr^LancaJler, and, on returning, Worcefterihire. The.followjjrag; were the ftages at which only refrefhraents were taken, going to and from Liverpool, from whence the paflage: was fcy fea. . Rout to Liverpool, April 1797. . miles. From Saffibtary to Deptford-Inn - - 11 "Warminfter ------ 9 Philips-Norton ~-" -r - - - 9s Bath (firft day) - -- -..,.,6* Eriftol - - -"" - - - - 12 Auft-Paflage (fecond day) , - , - .-. ia Chepftow - - - - - ' - , 3 Tintern (through Piercefield) - - - £ Purfue the Banks of the Wye to Monmouth ' '., (third day) "- - - "-'"' '- '.' U St,. Weonard's ----- 7 Callow - - - - - - 7 Hope, through Hereford (fourth day ) ^ - 1 1| Carried over 104I 4 "A TOUR THROUGH '.' . . .. ,"¦' ¦ 'T"'.',' :• ¦'',¦ ' :i;.v ¦ miles. •.t»'o<> i'' '¦(•¦'. •••• ....;;. -Brought over .IQ4I ^-i^atnirifter ' - --¦ "- ¦' - ;.-^-\~;vr' - •• -- 5 ¦ "Maidenhead *> - 1 _*».:»•'- -..,;,_..- 5 ¦ Ludlow .:¦> --¦ - : r^r':." ,-¦<•• ¦'_¦'¦ 54- Newton - ; > - no.- _ _ 8 ChuVch-Stretton (fifth day) :'-"- ^ -:¦- - .-: 8 -Dorrington . - v' -: -w <»-. <> - _ 6i -•' .Shrewsbury'! - <-;•.,!- . .'—•n:.;.':-; -rJr.s 6i Cockfliutt (&tthday) < -.: ;; :>•- '•:.'/<¦- ! -; 12 . "Ellefmere !; r- -•_ • ¦< _:- !¦-;¦_•> •>-,.', ., ,-._-: . 4 Overton, on the Dee ''fi-.^ii i!^crr_".o:/. _ _¦ :-.:5 riiWrexhara - - '¦^.¦i.'-'-i --:r .- ' «¦ •->• ¦ ¦¦7...... Ruflet-Green; ' sit. - - - ;- "¦" 5 --":- Chefter (feventh day); :-•;¦ -n: "- - ' 6| ^ By canal boat to the Merfey, thence to Liver pool, fuppofe about - ' ' - ' '- - 20 ;. Totals 2o8i Rout from Liverpool to Salisbury, Aug. 1797. From Liverpool, crofs to Woodftde-ferry, from ^ thence to Eaftham , - Chefter , Barnhill (fi'rft'day) '-. ' - "Whitchurch Wem - liarmer-Hill "- Shrewfbury (fecond day) J - J - J^eighton-Inn - - MILES. - - 7 ~ /...,-,,.' — \ 9 " 16 . "'_ 10 - :,<)'.¦- 9 - - ""4i - 6 - over 10 Carried (>5i THE ISLE OF MAN. ' ' ¦¦¦¦¦<-¦¦..-.- 1 .„*'"' * '_ r *¦ Brought. oyer MILES. "¦M"r- €oaibrooke-Dale _v:-r - - .T" , 3 ,~ Bridgeriorth (third day) - - ' *l,-l Ajlembridge - , . - ..-., . .-,¦ - . . - 7 lyjdderminfter ,; — - -^ „ 7 Wendefley-Green , - - _ _ - 4 Omberfley , . - %i - ~, - .~. _ 5 . - 5« . . Sevexnftoke. .-... - - - _ Tewkefbury - - .. - - - - 8 Gloucefter (fifth day) ,- - - , - 11 .Paiofwick (fixth day) - -- _;.,- 6 Minchinhampton -,— - - 7 Tetbury - - . - . - , 6 Malmfbury - - - - - - 5 *Chippenham (feventh day) ' - -¦ " 10 Pevizes - - - - - - 10 Bell-Inn, Lydeway - ' - - -" " 4 Druid's-Head, on Salhhury-plain - ¦r '3 Salisbury (eighth day) - - - 6 Total 198 Expences to Liverpool - £• ,2 8 1 of Expences on return - - '•. 2 14 3* The principal rivers crofTed were,- the -Severn at the Old Paffage, where there is an excellent inn; the Wye at * At Chippenham there was an intermiffion of a day, which was fpentvery agreeably, with an old friend, whofe mufical abilities do him the greateft credit. i Chepftow, 6 A T0UR THROUGH Chepftew, and the Merfey at Liverpool, where we foon found a veflbl ready to fail ; the accommodations were plain ; yet agreeable company made the voyage, of two days and fwo nights, ple'afant. " Another vefTeraccompanied us, in which was the Lieut. - Governor's Lady ; and on a fignal being given, the Governor attended oh Douglas Quay to conduit her to the Caftle. The ruins, churches, houles, gardens, manufactories, and every attractive obje£t in the immediate line of our route, were attentively infpe<3ed ; but as they were riot bur prin cipal objects, and are generally well known,, I ftiall not de- fcribe therh.* The country' appeared every where rich and beautiful; "the face of nature was in its frioftbloomirig ftate, and the golden Karveftfolicited a fmile of gratitude towards the benevolent Author. But to. proceed : — • '¦' Mona, I fing, tlie favourite of heaven j ... " That happy jfpot that was of old ordain'd " To be the feat of modern blifs : — where peace "For ever dwells, and fair profperity ",Enthron'd fits fmiling on her golden fhores," A IVJanks Barl>, THE ISLAND OF MAN Is centrically fituated between Great-Britain and Ireland ; the middle is 54 deg. 46 m. North latitude; it is about 30 miles long, and: jo broad in the wideft part. Its extreme paints running, parrow, we may ftate it to be about 70 miles * Thefe obje£t» fdrnled a few letters td fome friends, particularly to John HayneBovet, efq; Taunton, and W. Buller, efcjj Wilton. in THE rK/E.-WOTAH. J in circumference, and its contents 220 fquare miles. Five twelfths are heathy mountain and moorifh ground ; the re mainder, arable, pafture, and meadow land. -- It is divided into fix manors; his Grace the Duke of Athol is lord of two of thefe. Its bearing and diftance from particular points is as fol lows :-_From the Calf to the hill of Howth, S. W. i W. 54 miles. To the Skerries light, .5. by E. 35. miles. To Carlingfqrd, W. £ S. 45 miles. To Strangford, N. W. by W. i, 27 miles. From Peele to the Copeland lights, N. W. £.N. 35 miles. To the Mull* of Galloway,N. by W. i W. 25 miles. From the point of Ayre to the Mull of Galloway, N. W. by W. 22 miles. From ditto to St. Bees? Light-houfe, E. by N. 29 miles. From Maughold Head to St. Bees' Light-houfe, E. N. E. i N, 30 milefs* From Douglarto the N. W. buoy at Liverpool„S. E. J S. 60 miles. The courfes taken by Mr. Fanning from the true meridian, and the diftances nautical miles; the variation of the compafs upon a mean 2% points. The oldefb map of the Ifland is by Thomas Durham, in 1595, from which Speed copied his; the map by- Mr* Fatte ning is the laft that has been made, and this is efteemedj par ticularly for its nautical corre£tnefs. The name of Man is fuppofed to refer to its fituation as to the furrounding kingdoms, from the Saxon word Mang, * The Mull of Galloway is a promontory, well-known to mariners who navigate the Irifh channel. It is the moft fouthern point of Scotland on the Weft fide, and lies in lat. 54., 44. Mull, or as it is called by the Highlanders Moil, feems to be the Galic term for cape, and hath been adopted by the Lowlanders in two inftances only, the Mull of Cantire and of Galloway.— Perhaps the word might come from Mole, a mould or heap„ fignifying 8- A TOUR THROUGH fignuying among; others fuppofe the word to originate from Maune, the name of St. Patrick,- the apoftle of the .ifland, .before he affumed that of Patricias. By Caefar it is called Mona;* "by the ^ inhabitants Manning; andbypeopje ia ge neral Man. ;.;;.,. Its ancient bearing was a fhip ; but the arms are now, and have been for centuries, Gules, three armed legs proper, or rather argent, conjoined in fefs, at the upper part- of the thigh, fleihed in triangle, garnifhed and fpurred topaz. So long as the Kirtg of Man wrote Rex Mannia et. Infitlarum, they. bore the fhip; but when the Scots had poffeflion, with the Weftern iftands, the legs were fubftituted. It is faid of the three legs,, that with the toe of the one they fpurn at Ire-; laftd, with, they^fcr of the other they kick at Scotland, and with the third they bow to England. jit isfuppofed that' the firft inhabitants were Britifh ; and that they were fucceeded by the Druids until the fourth cen tury, when-chriftianity was introduced into, this ifland. , ¦ In the tenth century, King Gwy fubdued the Qrcades. and Hebride^ -and feated himfelf on the throne. And; he was fucceeded in,the-fpllowirig?prder-: ..-¦•¦ . * All late writers agree that, Moti«;Cafuris is Man;, but Mono. Taciti belongs to Anglefey*. Early authors call it Monada^ Mena-via Secunda, (to diftinguifh it from Anglefey) Euloriid, &c. ' The Manks derixgjit .traditionally from Manna Man Maclea, an early king, who firft conquered the ifland. In the Frith of Forth there is, an ifland -called Amona, or Vmona; that is, the ifland pfMpna,, For.among the ancient. Scots X.,. or J, fignified an ifland, in : the fame way-as.ai, among the Hebrews.— Introd. to the.Hift. and Antiq. of Scotland, London, 8vo. Note- man, 1769, [The word, perhaps, is more properly fpelt, with a double nn, but this I fliall onlyiadopt in the title-page,] CATALOGUE THE ISLE OF MAN, 9 CATALOGUE OF KINGS OF MAN. OF THE DANISH LINE.' "'-¦ Orry, tenth century : the firft King. Guttred, his fon,:. He erected Caftle-Rufhen,.and is buried -.-. there. , , , ; - . , . Reginald^ a bad prince. He. died byaffaflination, Olave, executed as, an ufurper.by the King of Denmark. Olain, his brother, who died. in Ireland, Allen, a bad character — poifoned by the Governor. Maun, a gallant prince,. deprived, but jreftored .again with honour by the BritiftijMonajjch,,.., OF THE NORWEGIAN ilNE. Gpdred, the reigning prince in the eleventh century. - Fingal, his fon, flain in battle near Ramfay. Godred Crovan, the Norwegian conqueror. Lagman, 1082, his fon; who, having.murdered his brother, refigned the crown for a crofs, and died in his pilgrim age at Jerufalem. Mac Marus, or Mac Manis, 1 089, during Olave's minority, third fon of the conqueror : he founded Rufhen Abbey, Magnus, king of Norway, fix years. Olave, 1 1 62, a good prince, flain with a battle-axe by Regi nald his nephew, near Ramfay, previous to a general battle. Godred, 1 143, Olave's! fon, -who revenged his father's fate by the death of Reginald. Elected King of Leinfter alfo for his virtues. Sumfnerled, 1 158, Thane of Argyle, and brother-in-law to Godred, conquered and ufurped, the crown. Reginald alfo Jto A TOUR THROUGH alfo after him; -but Godred fubdued, and died king in 1187. Olave, fon of Godred, dethroned and batfifhed by Reginald his illegitimate elder brother; but after various hard- fhips was reftored. Reginald invaded the kingdom, and was flain in battle near the Tynwald. Olave died at Peele caftle in 1237. Henry III. of England granted him, in 1236, 40 marks,- 100 quarters of corn, and five tons of wine, annually, to defend the fea-coaft. Harold, who perifhed by fea, on the coaft of Redland, in re turning from Norway. Reginald, 1249, his brother, affaflinated ; like John of Eng- " land, he fubmitted to the Pope. This furrender was done at London5 at the houfe of the Knights Templars, John and Henry III, both efpoufed Reginald. Magnus, his brother, laft of the Norwegian line, who died 1 265, and was buried in the Abbey-church of Rufhen. N. B. The monks of Riifhen Abbey wrote the hiftory of Man, as far as the Scottish cdnqueft: (See Gough's new edit, of Camden.) OF THE SCOTTISH LINE, Alexander III. conquered the ifland, and governed it by his Thanes,. Then Maurice Okerfair, and others. QF THE" ENGLISH LINE.- Sir WdBam Montacute, crowned 1 344 by 'order of Edw. Ill, who had enabled him to .conquer it. His pretenfions were, having married a defcendant of Godred Crovan.— = U This Earl William was defcended from Drogo, a «* branch of the royal houfe of Man, and his father mar- " rying THE ISLE OF MAN. II , 4i rying the widow of Olaryus king of Man, the royalty ." devolved to himy but it was then in the hands of the ,,*'. Scots; however, the Earl bravely drpve them out, " and recovered the feigniory and crown of it from " Edward III, and by his approbation was called King « of .Map." Antiq. Sariiburienfis, 8vo. Eafton 1771. Antony Beef, Bifhop of Durham ; a fliort time, when it re turned to Montaeute, now Earl of Salifbury, who fold it to ¦ ¦'•¦¦• Sir William Scroope, who was beheaded. Percy, earl of Northumberland ; granted by Henry IV. who deprived him again. Sir JohnStanley; 6th Henfy IV.; and his heirs and fuc- ceffprsi- Sir John Stanley^ his fon, in 1 4 1 4. J441. Thomas, his fon, created Baron Stanley by Henry VI. I460. Thomas, Earl of Derby, (created by Henry VII.) his fon, 1504. Thomas, his grand fon, fecond Earl of Derby; who refigned the regal title.*' 1. * . - * His reafons are explained in the following extract of a letter from Lord Derby to his fon : — " The ifle was fometime governed by kings, natives of its own, who were converted to Chriftianity by St. Patrick, the apoftle of Ireland ; and Sir John Stanley, the firft pofleflbr of it of that family, was by his patent ftiled King of Man ; as were his fuc.ceflbrs after him, to the time of Themas fecqndEarl of Derby; who for great and "wife reafons thought fit to forbear that title. Some might think it a mark of grandeur, that the Lords of this ifle have been called Kings; and I might be of that opinion, if I knew how this country could maintain itfelf independent of other nations; and that I had no intereft in another place : but herein I agree with your great and wife anceftor Thomas fecond Earl of Derby, and with htm conceive," that to be a great Lord is more honourable than a petty King. " Befides, »"« A TOUR THROUGH'' From hence then we muff denominate themprineeg; as the regal title was never refumed by-ariy-bf hls^'faeceSTors, though their power'and dignity rernairied UfldiaSrirfhed. ':•¦¦¦''"'. ¦¦ .A :/.;:.., j ,/e I,.:: '" LORpS^OF.-MAN/ANp-.'THE ISXFB. _ v 152L Edward, fohofl Thomas, ieeend'^arl of Derby; in whofe time the biftioprick was, by an act of the Britifh Parliament, rendered 'fubje&fjp the fee ,,pf York, thoUgh formerly united to Canterbury, ;;: J592. Henry, his fon. -,',,',, Ferdinand, his" fori; poifonedby,.a;fer^ajit,in 15,94. J tVilliam, a younger brother, who being abroadx " Sir "Thomas Gerrard was appointed governor by Queen Elizabeth.- James I, ga,ve: William a new grant of the ifland^equally-iiberal with that of Henry IV. whicfci was confirmed by an act of parliament. 1642. James, feventh Earl of Derby, his fon. He loft- his head by fupporting Charles I. ; for which Charles II. .: proved afterwards highly .ungrateful. The ifland was befieged by the parliamentary forces, under Colonels Birch and Duckenfield, and furrendered. 'c Befides, it is not fit for a King tobefubjecr. to any other King» bat the King' of Kings ; nor does it hardly pleafe a King; that any of bis fubject's mould affecT: rhattitle, weriit but to aclit inaplay; •witnefs the fcruples raifed, and objections made, by my enemies in Jiis Majefties council; of my being too nearly allied to the royalty, to be trufted" with too great power; (as before herein-mentioned) whofe jeafoufies and vile fuggeftions have proved of very ill confe rence to his Majefties intereft, and my fervice of him Take it for granted, that it is your honour to give honour to your fovereign, it is-fafe and comfortable; therefore in allyour actions; let it vifibly appear in this ifle." Lord A TABLE shewing the Connexion of the DERBY and ATHOL Families, X James Lord Strange, K X fummoned to Parliament X X 3 Car. I. afterwards Earl X X of Derby ; beheaded at X )( Bolton in Lancashire, for X X his loyalty, anno 1651. XI iiO<»OOOCOOO wiram it.was granted bjcParua- -t > >ament4 bat an the&eftora'tishj the Derby family were "i n.Temftated in all' their rights. ". : .... j;I .. .-,:,-- jGbarles^ion of the. nobleman who. (uffered at rBokoa, was '•I. tKth&&flr.loEd:after.theReftorationi he died.in.1672. .'^fcSZ&awj: his eldeft fon;! died in .'1702;: ...... James, the younger fon, now fucceeded*— the tenth. Eafl of Derby., HeiaTcertained,- and confirmed to the Manks, -.vs . their vtemai>esj"whdGh;5were before very- injurious to 1 jii: -themfelves aadinsralved in 'intricacy 5 this was termed 1 . the adr. of. felftfetnetitpafFed jin 170.3, and confiderably . ....-; augmented the happinefs and profperity of the ifland. i Hedled without ifjue in. 1735.., znz : • : ; - '^d ti'.lid:- : '.: r 1 , Ernment, of fbr^-the id- Jury done to his poflerity by its, alienation from the fa mily. The a£t annexing it to the Britifh .crown is termed the ' Re-vefHng ArfL'. Since iwaichPa^Htnent has granted an annuity of 2boel. per annum, ton the lives of the Duke and Dochefs, by 'way of additional > compenfation. - ; ."-.", no: v in- ¦¦• ' The Kings of England always: -claimed fovereignty as lords paramount, but they interfered not witklilts go vernment. The prince's power was ample; he coined < money, punifhed or pardoned delinquents, &c. &c. Join, the prefent Duke of Athoi^ Ms eldeft fan, was born in 1755; and in 1774 married Jane daughter of Charles Schaw Cathcart, Lord Cathcart; by whom he has four fons— 1. John'Marquts of Tullibardin, born June 1778; 2. Lord James; 3. Lord Edward; 4. - Lord Robert. Daughters — i. Lady Charlotte; 2. Lady Mary Louifa, who died an infant; 3. Lady Mary Sophia.* In 1786 his Grace was created an Engiifli Peer, by the title of Baron Murray, of Stanley in GJocefterfhire, and EarlStrange to his heirs male, f He is one of his Majefty's Privy Council, and Gover nor of the ifland. * His Grace married fecond ly in 1794, Lady Macleod, widow of the late Lord Macheod, by whom he had a daughter who died in June 1796.. . . -f- His titles are, The moft noble John Duke of Athol, Marquis and Earl of Athol, Marquis of TuTlrbardih, Earl of Strathfay and Strathardel, Vifcdunt •Gflenaltnorid and Gknlyon, Lord Murray, Balveny,and Gafe,.Lord of tihe Ifle of Man,iCiijnftabfe of the Caftle of Kindeveh, and hereditary keeper of the palace of Falkland. His Englifh titles are, Earl Strange and Baron Murray. His chief feats are at Blair in Athol, Dunkeld, Tullibardin, and Huritingtower, all in Perthfhire ; and at Pors^-Aiee in the Ifte of Man. SUCCESSION THE ISLE OF MAN* 15 SUCCESSION OF BISHOPS. By an aft of 33d Henry VlII. the'biihoprickis declared In the province' of York'; during the -'Norwegian tonqueft it was under the metropolitan of Drontheim. The bifhop- ricks' of Sodor and Man were united, and continued uhtil conquered by the Englifli, fince which the Bifhop of Man keeps his title, and the Scotch bifliop'ftiles-himfelf, * Bifhop of the Ifles,' anciently' Epifcopus lnfularum Sodorenfium. The bifhoprick, formerly annexed to the fee 6f the files, has been feparated about 400 years. The prelates of the Weftern ifles had three places of refidence; Icolumkill, Man, and Bute; and in ancient writs are promhcubufly Ailed Epifcopi Mannia it itifuidrum,' Epifcopi Abhdarunl, and Epif- copi Soderenfts. Which laft title the bifhops of the ifles re tain, as well as the prefervt bifhops of Man. The cathedral of Iona, or Irolumkili, was dedicated to our Saviour, in Greek Sotcr; hence Soterenfis, a name frequently given by Danifh writers to the Weftern ifles, and now corrupted to Soderenfts. The civil wars ill Scotland Enabled -the Danes and Nor wegians to feize the Ifle of Man and the Weftern iflands in 1097; and it is probable they tranfplanted the fea,t of the fee to Man. When annexed by Edward III. to England, the Lord's of Man fet up bifhops of their own, arid the Scottifh monarchs continued their bifhops of the ifles, of ¦ which the records are but imperfect. — Beatfon's Pol. Index. Buchanan fays, that the word Sbdor was before his time the name of a town in the Ifle of Man. In Gbugh's edit. of Camden, it is faid, this title was given to the'fmall ifland of Peel, which the Norwegians call Holm, within muffet- fhot of Man, and on which the ruins of Peel caftle, cathe dral, &c. now ftand. Admitting the truth of thefe ftatements, it does not ac count for the word always preceding that of Man : as, if it were l6 A TOUR. THROUGH were only a imall ifland adjbiriingi it would be putting tn<} inferioij.befors thefuperior. But .the following is tlie moft rational account xif it ;->-The Weftem iftands were divided into two clufters, in the Norwegian language termed fiudef, ancl Norder, fignifying- Southern , and -Northern, and ey or ffv.an ifland; divided ,hy Ardenamurchan,. appoint or, pro montory ip Argylefhire. Man,, was. included in jhe.Su- dereys, or Suder, which a'nglicifed became.S.odex ; and, all the ifles being included in one.diQcefe, unde/the Norwegian princes, the Bifhop ,was termed, the Bifhop of Man and the Ifles, or the Bifhop ,of Sodor and Man.- j.Jincej Man, was annexed by Edward IJL to;.England,andJfcp,arated,fi;om'the ifles, the bifhp.p has exercifed no jurifdiftion over them. But the title is retained, in the fame, way- as the,,Kipg' of England afTumes the. title of King- of France. He was for^ merly reckoned a baron, but never fat in the,Hp;ufe. of; Peers, becaufe he held of a fubjec~t, and, not a king; ,ye1[. hath the higheft feat in the Lower, Houfe of Convocation, and; is equally a bifhop as to jurifdiftion and ordination^ , , Speaking on this fubjecl: to a peffon of rank in .the ifland, inconverfation, 1797 ;; he^expjefredjhirrifelf, as well^s can be recollected,, as- .follows -.Ts—The Bifhojis^^'faid he), though they have nothing, Jo do-svithj the, Britifh. Houfe of Peers, have. in the Manjcs. houfe, and with your bifhops are mem bers of the convocation, as the fee is in the province of York. The bifhop 'here ranks next after the governor. He is the firft perfon of his Majefty's privy equncil in the ifland, is a judge, in its courts of chancery, and a temporal peer, and baron in the ifland. His fee is totally diftinfi; from the other lands of the Lord, and he has power over all thpfe lands which compofe his fee; they, unconnected with other dues, amount to a little more than 1200I. per. ann. all toge ther the bifhoprick, being eftiniated at 1500I. per annum. OREER THE ISLE OF MAN., \J ORDER OF SUCCESSION. After St. Patrick left the ifland, followed St.' Germanus, Conindrius, Romulus, St. Maughold, and Conatus ;f then foon we come to IVymundus, Reymundus,. or Hamundus, firft bifhop of Sodor and Man, confecrated by Turfton archbifhop of York; died about 1 151. John, a monk of Sais in Normandy. ' Gamaliel, an Engli/hman,, confecrated by Roger archbifhop of York 1 1 54; buj-jed at Peterborough. Reginald, a Norwegian, to whom the thirds of the livings were firft granted by the clergy, L , , Chriftian, buried in the monaftery of Bangor, Ireland, Michael, a Mankfman, who died about 1203. Nicholas de Melsa, abbot of Furnefs, refigned. Reginald, confecrated 12 16 ; and John, fucceeded by Simon, a man of great piety and learning; he held a fynod of the clergy in 1239, in which thirteen canons were' enacted. He died in a good old age, at the palace of Kirk-Michael, in 1249. Lawrence, the archdeacon, 1249, who was unfortunately drowned with Harold king of Man, his queen, and numbers of the nobility. s« vacant fix years. Richard, an Englifhman, who died in 1 274. He dedicated St. Mary's church of Rufhen or Caftletown, in 1260. In his time the Scots conquered the ifland. •f- St. Patrick, in 444, with thirty learned and religious perfons, landed in the ifland, where he found the people given to magick, the greater part of whom he converted, but fuch as refilled, he ba- nifhed the ifland ; after three years he went for Ireland, and left Ger manus, who fettled the Chriftian religion in the ifland, from which it never after relapfed : he died before St. Patrick, who then fent Co nindrius and Romulus. Maughold was chofen by univerfal fuffrage. Conatus was tutor to the King of Scotland (Eugenius)'s fbns. Hamundus is faid to have had his eyes put out for his cruelty. c Marcus IS A TOUR THROUGH Marcus Galvadienp, 1275, baniflied, but recalled. He held ' a fynod, ih which 35' canons were enacted. Mauritius, imprifoned in London by Edward Lfyperfeded by Allen or Onachus. t Gillrertyi a Scot, two years and a half. Bernard, a Scot, 3 years. ¦ . ::. - -; Thomas, a Scot, 14 years, died 1348. William Ruffel, abbot of Rufhen, elected by the whole clergy of Man in St. German's. He added five more canons ; was bifhop: 26 years ; died 1.374. Jthft Duncan, inftalled 1376, A Mankfman. Robert Waldby, 138 1, 22 years. Tranflated to Dublin. ;--,\ _-. -jr., -See vacant many years, Richard Pully, J429.-, t ,-•..¦ John Grene, or &pX4tjt&n, vicar of Dunchurch in Warwick *. fhire,i 1448,, „,. ; - 7,- %hoffia^Bpir^>n,-iied ,1458. Thomas} abbot of Vale-Royal, Chefliire, 1480. Richard -Oldham, abbot of Chefter. Evan, or Huan, elected by Sir Thomas Stanley, 1487, Thomas Stanley, 1 5 10, rector of Wigan, deprived. Hugh Hefketh, if not Huan above-mentioned. Robert Ferrier,\Stdorenfis'\ 1545, tranflated to St.'Davids. Henry Man, 1546,. dean of Chefter, after, 'wham, Stanley was reftored^ and died in 1558. '.,!¦-. , X" John Salifbufy, dean df Norwich, 155-9. v James Stanley,-! 5 7 3, illegitimate fon of Sir Edward Stanley, firft Lord Moriteagle. John Merrick, 1577, vicar of Hornchurch, Effex; he wrote, the account of the ifland, publifhed by Camden. George Lloyd, 1599, tranflated to Chefter 1604, Dr. John Philips, 1605, archdeacon Of Cleveland and' Mart; tranflated, the Common-prayer, into Manks, died in *6335 a piousvhofpitable man. 1 HLi. J31.E OiF MAN. 19 William FoJler, 1634, prebend of Chefter. Dr. Richard Parr, 1635, rector of Ecclefton, Lancafhire; the laft before the civil war ; died 1643. The See void feventeen years. Samuel Rutter, j66i ; he had been archdeacon; was the friend and companion of the great Earl of Derby when in prifon; he wrote fome poetry for his amufement, which, in Bifhop jWilfon's time, was efteemed in the ifland. Dr. lfaac Barrow, fellow of Eton college, to Avhotn the clergy are Obliged for the royal bounty, for the impropriations and various charities, which rendered bis tra'nflation, after two years enjoyment of this fee, to St. Afabh, a great lofs. - '¦" Dr. Henry Bridgeman, dean of Chefter, 167' 1. Dr. John Lake, , 1682, archdeacon of Cleveland; trans lated to Briftol in 1684; the next year to Chichener. He was one of the feven bifhops committed to the Tower for a libel agairift James II; or rather1 for Jfub- fcri'bing a petition to his Majefry, wherein tie, and they, exprefs -great averfenefe to the diftributing and publifh- ing iri ^11 their churches, the King's declarationfor liberty pf confbience, &c. After William came to the crown, he refufed taking the oaths of allegiance, &c. and' was therefore deprived. Pr. Baptijl Levinz, 1684, prebend of Winchefter, who died 1693. See vacant five years. Dr. Thomas Wilfon, of Trinity college, Dublin, 1697-8; diedin 1755. Dr. Mark Hildefley, -vicar, of Hitching, Herts* died 1772. Dr. Richmond, vicar of Walton, Lancafhire; died 1780. Dr. G. Mafon, who died in 1784, and to whom has fuc ceeded the prefent bifhop Dr. Ciaudius Crigan. c 3 OF 20 A TOURiTHROUGH OF ESTABLISHMENTS. * GOVERNORS. The Governor, 'the Council, the Deemfters, and Keys, form the legiflature of the ifland; they are four feparate eftates, and the concurrence of the whole is neceffary to make a law. The Ecclefiaftical eftablifhment confifts of the Lord Bifhop, the Archdeacon, his Official, two Vicars-Ge neral, and the Parochial Clergy. The Civil eftahlifhment is as follows :* — The Governor, 400]. per annum. Lieut. - Governor,.20ol. Attorney-General, 200I. Two Deemfters, befidesfees, 200I. each. Clerk of the Rolls, 50I. Clerk of the Council, 5 ol. Water-Bailiff, 80I. Surgeon, 50I. Go vernor's Chaplain, 25I. High-Bailiffs at Caftletown, Dou glas, Ramfay, and Peel, 25I. each;, thefe were formerly captains of towns, at 15I. per ann. but were altered by an act of Tynwald in 1777. They have power to hear and ¦ determine caufes under 40s. Four conftahles were then abolifhed, whofe falaries were 5I. each. Chief Conftable andGoaler, 12I. perann. Fifteen Conftables at 5I. Turn key, Servant, and Meflenger, 3I. each. Coroners fix, at 3I. perann. A regulator of weights and meafures at Caftletown. . MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT. This confifts of two regiments of Royal'Manx Fencibles. Theyfr/?, raifed Feb. 20, 1793, confining Of 306 rank and file. The fecond, of ten companies, raifed in 1796: uni- * The revenue officers are noticed in their refpeitive diftrifts. forms, THE ISLE OF MAN. 21 forms, red with blue facings. This regiment is confidered as liable to duty in any part of the. three kingdoms. Be- fides thefe there are volunteer corps, and militia, command ed, under the Governor, by three Majors, and feventeen captains of parifh.es. Thefe are not embodied but in cafe of common danger. Royal Manks Battalion. In the Ifland. Lieut.- Col. Commander, John Duke of Athol, Feb. 20, 1793. Major, Lieut .-Governor Shaw. Second Major, William Cunningham, May 17, 1796. Capt. C. Heywood. Capt.- Lieut. and Captain, Thomas Chriftian, efq, ^Lieutenants, Mark Quayle, Thomas Moore, A. Murray, James Wilkes, A. Sutherland. Enfigns, Harman, John Quirk, Rich. Gelling. Adjutant, Thomas Moore. Surgeon, Patrick Scott, efq. Second Royal Manks..* Colonel, Lord Henry Murray, April 7, 1795. Lieut. -Colonel, Charles Small. Major, Wm. Peachey. Captains, Robert Stewart, Caefar Tobin, Hon. Andrew Forbes, William Bacon, Richard Harrifon, R. W. F. Lathropp, J. Dunn, J. Chriftian. Capt.-Lieutenant and Captain, John Hornen Lieutenants, M. Summers, P. T. Moore, JEneas Anderfon, J. N. Scott, J. Rugglis, R. Clague, W. Kewley, J. Dunn, W. M'Intoch, Col. Campbell, R. M. Carlie. Enfigns, Meflrs. Carlos, J. Lamothe, Bloffet, G. Montgomery, J. Caldwell, M. Moreton, A. Fullarton. Chaplain, Evan Chriftian. Ad jutant, John Horner. Quarter-Mafter, John Chriftian. Surgeon, J. N. Scott. * Report fpeaks very highly of the conduct, of this corps, now ferving in Ireland, during its prefent unhappy ftate. Soldiers fhould never forget that they are men. Governors 2 A TOUR THROUGH Governors since Sir John Stanley's time. 141 7 John Letherland, lieutenant. 141 8 John Fafakerley, lieutenant. 1422 John Walton, lieutenant. 1428 Henry Byron, lieutenant. No record until- 1492. 1 496 Peter Dutton, lieutenant. 1 497 Henry Radcliffe, Abbot of Rufhen, deputy. j 505 Randolph Rufhton, captain. 1508 Sir John Ireland, knight, lieutenant. 15 1 6 John Ireland, lieutenant. 151 7 Randolph Rufhton, captain. 15 19 Thomas Danifport, captain. 1526 Richard" Holt, lieutenant. 1529 John Fleming, captain. ' *53° Thomas Sherburn, lieutenant. 1532' Henry Bradley, deputy lieutenant. 1533 Henry Stanley, captain. 1535 George Stanley, captain. 1537' Thomas Stanley, knight, lieutenant. 1539 George' Stanley j captain. '¦' 1540 Thomas Tyldlley, deputy. 1544 William Stanley, deputy. 1552 Henry Sfenfeyj captain; 1561 Sir Richard Sherburne^. 1562 Thomas Stanley, knight, lieutenant. 1566 Richard Afton, captain. 1 567 Thomas Stanley, knight, lieutenant. 1569 Edward Tarbock, captain. _ 1575 John Hanmer, captain. 1580 Richard Sherburn, captain. 1 59 1 Richard Adertqn was admitted and fworn lieutenant under the captain,, by my Lord's- diredions, for all martial affairs. THE ISLE OF MAN* 23 1592 Cuth. Gerrard, captain. > ¦• Thomas Martinier, deputy. :." P 1593 Hon. William Stanley, eaptairi, afterwards Earl of Derby. • r • 1 594 Randolph Stanley, captain. 1596 Sir Thomas Gerrard, knight, captain. Cuth. Gerrardj deputy. 1597 Thomas Gerrard, knight, captain. Robert Molyneuxj deputy. " 1 599 Cuth. Gerrard, captain. > Robert Molyneux, deputy. I 6qo : Robert Molyneux, captain. 1 609 John Ireland and John Birohall, governors jointly, by patent from the King'. Thomas Gerrard. , ) i 610 John Ireland, lieutenant and captain. 1 612 Robert MolyneuJci captain. 1 621 Edward Fletcher, deputy: 1622 Edward Fletcher, governor. 1623 Sir Ferdinard Leige, knight, captain. 1625 Edward Fletcher, deputy. 1 626 Edward Holmewood, captain. 1627 Edward Fletcher, deputy. - 1628 Edward Chriftian, lieutenant and captarrk j 629 John Ireland. 1634 Evan Chriftiarti deputy. 1635 Sir Charles Gerrard, knight} captain. i 636 John Sharpelefs, deputy* ¦ 1 639 Radcliffe Gerrard, captain. i 640 * John Greenhalgh, governor. 1 65 1 Sir Phili Mufgrave, knight and bark governor'.* 24 A TOUR THROUGH 1 652 Samuel Smith, deputy governor. ¦ Lord Fairfax made. commiflioners for governing this year, viz. James Chaloner, Robt. Dinely, efq; and Jonathan Witton, clerk. 1653 Matthew Cadwell, governor. \ 1656 William- Chriftian, governor;., :: 1658 James Challoner, governor. 1 660 Roger Nowell, governor. Richard Stevenfon, deputyv.,' 1 663 Henry Nowell for one part of the year, and Tho. Stanley foj- the other part, deputies, 1664 Bifhop Barrow^ governor. H. Nowell, deputy. 1669 Henry Nowell.t 1677 Henry Stanley.. 1678 Robert Heywood. 1 691 Roger Kenyon* William Sacheverell. 1696 Colonel Sankey. Hon. Capt. Cranfton. 1 703- Robert Maudefley. , 17 1 3 John Parr, C. Stanley. Alexander Home. Major Floyde. 1726 Thomas Horton. 1734 James Horton. 1 7 39 -Hon. James Murray.;.,' 1747 P. Lindefay. ' /¦ 1 757 Bafil Cochrane, John Taubman. 1 763 John Wood. tt— J. Hope. 1776 Edward Smith, Richard Dawfon. 1 798 Duke Of Athol, and Alexander Shaw, efq. LETTER THE ISLE OF MAN. 2J LETTER , IL To the same. DEAR SIR, TN this letter 1^ propofeto give you an abridged ftatement -*- of the Commifiioners' report, who were appointed, in 1792, to make various enquiries Telative to the additional compenfation, urged in parliament by his Grace the Duke of Athol, for the benefits derived to this country from the pofleffion of the Ifle of Man; and to examine into thofe righfs, of which his Grace complained he was unintentionally deprived, and in which, therefore, he requeued to be rein- flared. A fair and equitable compenfation was required for that, which his Grace confidered the re-vefting act had in its operation divefted him of; and in his laft bill, finally to ad- jiaft the bufinefs between his family and the crown^he prayed that leave might be given for a bill appointing commifiioners to enquire what rights and fpecies of property were'necef- fary or expedient to remain vefted in the crown, for the pro tection and fecurity of the publick revenues, and what was the value thereof; and alfo how far, and to what extent and value, his remaining rights and interefts in the faid ifland had been or would, by the difmemberment thereof, be im paired or diminifhed, and to afford him relief.* * In a cafe respecting the validity of this fale, laid before council in 1788, it is ftated, that the fum of 70,0001. was paid only for fuch 26 A TOUR THROUGH The corhmiflioners appointed in confluence wefe, Mr. Spranger, mafter in chancery ; Mr. Grant, an. Englifh law yer, and M. P. ; Mr. Ofgoode, an Englifh lawyer, and chief juftice of Quebec; Mr. Roe, commifiioner of the cuftoms at London; and Mr. Reid, commifiioner of the cuftoms at Edinburgh. As foon as they arrived in the ifland, a committee of the Keys was appointed to attend and aflift them. The refult of their labours forms a very thick folio ; and as it was only printed for private ufe, I mean to give you the fubftante abbreviated. The firft attention was to the allegations of his Grace the Duke; and then they proceeded, 2dly, taihe revenue; 3dly, to the conftitution; 4thly, beneficial fuggeftions, not included under the other heads, with appendixes. fuch regalities, and other branches of this royal fief, as appeared to be convenient for the publick ; that what was referved to the Duke did not comprize one-fourth of the yearly revenue from the ifland ; and that his family have by it loft, at the rate of 4 or 5000I. a-yearj for 23 years fuccefiively ; fuch being nearly the difference between the net revenue from the ifland for ten years preceding the fale, and the net revenue of the purchafe-money and the referyed parts of the ifland put together. It becomes a queftion ¦ hpw far Duke James, the prefent Duke's grandfather, was competent to difpofe of the ifland at his pleafure, and overturn the order of fucceflion guarded by act. of James I. under which he himfelf derived ; and whether it is not incumbent on the legiflature, either by reftoratiari qf the property, or a liberal compenfation for every pbfflble damage from retaining the ifland againft thofe intitled under the right of fUcceffion, to redrefs the injury of which, through the precipitation of a bargain, they have been the unintentional authors. See the printed opinion of Mr. Hargrave on this Cafe.— GoUgh's Camden, vol. iii. 700. 1st; ALLE- THE ISLE OF MAtf. 2/ \si. ALLEGATIONS. The Duke of Athol's allegations were, i. That the revenues arifing to. his Grace's family were not fairly col lected, even .prior to the rer.veftmenU 2. That his family had the power of increafing the duties with the confent of the legiflature; and that fuch confent, to any reafonable de gree, would not have been wanting. 3. That fome rights, unneceffary to he vefted in the crown, have been fo vefted ; while others, meant to be retained, have, by the operation of the act of 1765, heen rendered nugatory, by being .left in a mutilated and unprotected condition ; the protections whi ch they enjoyed under the former government,. of the ifland, having been deftroyed, and no new or adequate protection fubftituted in their room. After examining the wkneffes in fupport of the firft alle gation, the commifiioners were of opinion, as well from die pofitive teftimony adduced, as from the necefiary confc- quence of that defective fyftem, which appeared in evidence to have been eftablifhed for collecting the duties, that, al though the amount of the lofs fuftained cannot be eftimated the Lord's revenues were not fairly collected or paid, prior to the re-veftment. The 2d allegation was divided into two parts ; the firft was* felf-evident, but as to the latter part, the commifiioners thought that it was not probable (after they had examined the iubjedt) that a confent to any increafe of duties would have been given without an equivalent. Refpecting the 3d allegation, that was likewife divided into two branches; and Iris Grace delivered in a paper, ftating what rights had un- neceflarily been vefted in the crown, and wifhing to be re- inftated in all his lawful rights ; viz. the Herring Cuftom of ios. on each boat, Salmon Fifheries, Ifle and Caftle o£ Peele, 28 A TOUR THROUGH Peele, Treafure Trove, kc. The commiflioners conceived, indeed, thefe as not necefiarily vefted in the crown for the purpofe of preventing illicit practices. On applying to the Attorney-General for his opinion on thefe fubjects, the • re mit was, " that he could not take upon himfelf to fay, that " the rights fpecified are abfolutely necefiary to be pofleffed " by his Majefty, in order to the fuppreffion of fmuggling, " but, as far as heCould judge, he does conceive the pof- " feflion of each of them by the crown, excepting perhaps " treafure trove, as a real and beneficial check upon fuch " practices. The trifling privilege of treafure trove might, " he believes,' be refigned without mifchief; but all the " reft would, if belonging to any other than the foyereign, " be liable to be made, in a greater or lefs degree, the means " of defrauding the revenue." The commifiioners con tinued in their original opinion. In fupport of the laft branch of the 3d allegation, the Duke delivered. in papers on the fubjects of wrecks, boons and fervices, game, unappro priated lands, &c. But, in general;- the commiflioners thought that thefe rights were not left in that unprotected and mutilated condition ftated by his Grace. After difcufs- ing thefe feveral points, the caufes of a mifivnderftanding between the Duke and Houfe of Keys was propofed to be investigated. It reflected laws being mads in the ifland, materially affecting his Grace's property, without his know ledge, on which ground he had entered caveats againft his Majefty 's aflent; and the Keys complained of the delays occafioned thereby. But the Houfe of Keys entering into a refolution to inform his Grace of any new laws a proper time before they fhould pafs, with copies of any new bills, Sec. the parties being fatished, farther difcuffion was waved : and the refolutions then adppted, were acknowledged a re medy for fome other infular grievances complained of by the people. The THE ISLE OF MAN. 29 The 2d general head of the Commiflioners Report is on the THE REVENUE; Containing, 1. The receipt and expenditure. 2. The eftablifhment of the cuftoms. 3. The fyftem of duties. 4. Illicit practices. .5. Propofals for the relief or benefit of the inhabitants. By the return, of the deputy Receiver-General, it appears that the Receipts and . Payments from Jan. 1 790 to Jan. 1791, amounted to 3016/. os. \id. raifed by col lections at the different ports. The total difburfements on this account is 3272/.. is. zd. The payments con tained in this account are either to officers in the civil or revenue departments, -incidental on the head of cuftoms, or bounties on herrings. Two other funds exift in the ifland, coming within the province of the receiver-general, dif- tinct from the cuftoms in their origin, collection, mode of account, and application, namely, the Harbour Duties, and the Herring cuftom, and Bay fiflierics. The harbour fund is levied under the act of 1 1 Geo. III. cap. 52, The herring cuftom is ancient, and was originally a payment in kind; a maze, or 500 herrings, being due from every Manks boat, for the fupply of the garrifons of the ifland ; hence called a castle maze. But it is now commuted for a money payment of ios. for ten maze, or in proportion to the quantity caught. Irifh boats pay double the cuftom, in the fame pro portion which is paid at'fea, or in the harbours, as occafion offers. The Manks boats pay after the feafon is over, on the proprietors oath, as to the number of boats employed, or quantity caught. . In the year 1 790 the number of boats paying herring cuftom in the ifland was 233. Sometimes * above 340 have paid, and in that year four Britifh boats paid. The revenue yielded by the Salmon fifheries, arifes from 30; A TOUR THROUGH from rents paid to the crown, for the liberty of fiflnijig in the bays of the ifland. The commiflioners of the treafury let them on leafe by auction for feven years, at 22]. per ann. The harbour duties for one year, ending in July 1791, were 319!. 5s. i-Jd. nett. And the herring cuftom and- bay fifheries nett, were 95I. 19s. 3-^d. from which 327J, was difburfed in repairs ; which, together with fome de ductions for falaries, left only 47I. 7s. io|d. balance in favour of the fund that year. The joint produce of thefe funds were, by 1 1 Geo. III. appropriated to the benefit of the harbours. The execution of this duty is principally in the management of revenue officers, which the com miflioners juftly conceived to be taking them off from their direct and efpecial duty ; and that, as the ports and har bours were objects of great importance, and that competent knowledge and incefjant attention were efiential requifites, in thofe to whom the management of them was intrnfted, they therefore recommended a re-confideration of the a£kt in queftion. %d. Establishments of the Customs., In the lift of ports are named four, Douglas, Derby-haven, Peelj and Ramfay, with 20 creeks; but in the commiffions one creek, Caftletown, is only named. The efience of a creek, in the language and fenfe of the cuftom department, is, the having officers ftationed to perform certain branches of the bufinefs, and as that is wanting, they hardly appear hitherto to have merited the appellation. Douglas, alfo, is filled a head port, and the other ports members thereof, M a diftbction (fay the commiflioners of 1792) in our opi- « nbn ufelefs and unwarranted ; as the fole ground we know, " of for that diftinaion, a right exercifed by patent officers, ^appointed to head ports to extend their jurifdi&ion in " refpect TH? ISLE OS MAN. $X W fefpedt of their offices to members thereunto belonging, " no ways obtains in the ifle of Man." The officers in the Cuftoms are thirty : their falaries amount to 932I. 6s. 6d. Many are paid at Whitehaven. ' The whole expenditure in 1790 for the ifland, incurred by the crown, was 3765I. 8s. 7^d. Fees are received -by many of the officers. No deductions1 Of any kind for taxes on the emoluments of Office, are made in the ifland. The commiflioners alfo con ceived the abolifhrng of all fees a meafore of a very falutary tendency; arid they ftated the whole management of the cuftoms to be ill-digefted, incomplete, and unfit. They proceeded to point put the moft ftriking defects, and the fubject is laid down and reafoned on with precifiori and knowledge; and the refult was, that the revenue was not nearly fo productive as it ought to be. They thought no thing fhort of a. radical change could reach the errors and defects of the fyftem, and communicate order, regularity, and energy; for which they advifed its being put under the management of the commifiioners of the cuftoms. for Eng land and Scotland, and that this fhould be done without. any detriment to the ifland. 3d. System of Duties. The ditties of cuftoms now payable in the ifland, are by 7 Geo. III. cap. 45. and 20 Geo. III. cap. 42. The du ties are laid on either by a fpecific rate, according to quan tity, meafurement, or weight; or ad valorem. Spirits; tea, coffee, tobacco, wine, and . coal, are claffed under the for mer; all other articles fubject to duty, und^er the latter. A laxity prevails in enforcing the oath, as to valuation, and -ge neral mode of collection. The lifts annexed in letter 6th, (hew the articles which may be imported,, or exported, or prohibited 32 A TOUR THROUGH prohibited in the ifland, &c. What improvements are wanting, are ftated at length in the Report. \t.hly. Illicit Practices'. The teftimony of the officers, and the weak fyftem of prevention, concurred to eftablifh the truth that illicit prac tices do ftill prevail in the ifland : ift, By a fraudulent evafion of infular duties; and 2dly, by importing, into Great-Bri-. tain or Ireland, articles liable to duty without payment thereof; of articles which have received bounty or draw back on exportation ; or of articles prohibited. . The ifland is made part of a circuitous fmuggling. to England, Scotland, or Ireland; here the contraband traders flop and difpofe of part of their illicit burdens. The, prin cipal fubjects of clandeftine importation are, brandy, geneva, and tea. Of outward fmuggling, fait is the moft confider- able. The commiflioners offer a variety of remarks on thefe heads, and on the plans necefiary for their prevention, convinced, as they obferve, that, .in proportion as this ille gal traffick is rooted out, a relifh for honeft induftry and enterprize will gain ftrength ; and the growth of trade and manufactures, the improvement of agriculture, the exten- fion of the fifheries, and with them the advancement of the Ifle of Man to a more flourifhtng ftate,jwill be enfured, Stfrly. The propofals for the relief and benefit of the inhabitants in ' regard to trade, refpect licenfed articles ; foreign brandy and geneva ; tonnage of veflels ; corn and grain; hops; herring fifhery; cotton manufactory ;'¦ hemp, iron, deal boards, and timber; tar, fait, oil, and -fruits of all kinds ; fhewing how certain inconveniences with regard- to thefe exift, and ftating the means to obviate them, with remarks THE ISLE OP MAN. 33 emarks, thereoq ; , alfo a propofitiorv for erecting a ware- houfe at Douglas, for foreign, European goods, which, is, however,. deemed a plan big,,yVithjnnQxat^njandito,rwhich ftrong Objections occur, . Afterfemarkson thefe head^they proceed to part the Third, onth§;Conftitution, Sic., which mall be purfued in my next letter. .. ... ., ;„ . ,<-. LETTER III.' To the same,. . DEAR SIR, TN endeavouring to give you a flight idea of what are the ¦*• fubjects which occupy the ponderous volume of theCom* rniflioners' Report; I c6me now to their third general head, hamely, The Constitution; and here; we find fome interefting letters annexed, from Mr. Deemfter Moore; the then Attorney- General; Sir Wadefwdrth Bulk j and the prefent Lfeut. -Governor, Alexander efq; the -Clerk of the Rolls ; and the Speaker of the houfeof Keys'. ^ . x Previous to the grant of this ifland to the^tatiley- family, In 1 406, it had been fubject to different governments* though lifually fubfifting as a petty kingdom, to whichjthe dominion of fome of , the Hebrides ry/3.s. once annexed j. and it was fuccefiively tributary to, or united with Denmark, Norway, Scotland, and England.-; Its moft ancient records, are the laws and ordinances enacted there, comiriericing in - 14 1 7. The firft of thefeis an act pafled by the authority of com miflioners, appointed; by the Lord, and the twenty-four Keysj to prevent abufes of the places of refuge, at, that *ime af forded to criminals by fome ecelefiafticks in the "Aland. The £> Manks 34 A TOUR THROUGH Manks ftatute-book commences in 1422, and contains " a " collection of divers ordinances, ftatutes, and cuftoms, pre- " fented, reputed, and ufed for laws in the ifland." Henry IV. granted to Sir John de Stanley, his heirs and aflighs, the ifland, Caftle JPele, and Lordfhip of Man, and all the iflands and lordfhips, royalties, regalities, and a'pper- tenances, with the patronage Of the bifhoprick, and all eccle- fiaftical benefices, in as full and ample a manner as they had been poflefled by any of the former lords or kings of Man, to be holden by homage, and the fervice of rendering to his Majefty, and to his fucceflbrs at their coronations, two fal cons.* By thefe, and other letters patent in 7th James I. this ifland has been held by the family, as a fief feparately from the kingdom, but dependent on the crown, froni 1406 to the reveftment in 1765, with fome little interruption at the latter end of the, reign of Elizabeth, on the failure of iflhe male of Ferdinanda, then, Earl of Derby. < From the grant. of Henry IV; it has been governed by its own. laws; its confutation we fhall now notice, as to its legiflative, executive, and judicial branches. The laws enacted inthe.jjth and 1 6th centuries, appear to have been pre- fcribed byfuch different powers, or combinations of power, that, as precedents of the exercife of legiflative authority, they can have little weight. Subfequent to this was eftablifhed * In the eftablimment of the Britifh court, we fee the head of the falconers ranked among the great officers of ftate. (Howel'Dha. I. i. c. 1. and Florence of Worcefter, p.. 613, Frankfort edition.) And at this day the Dukes, of. St. Alban's and Ancafter, are here ditary chamberlain and falconer to the King of England. Hawking remained the favourite recreation of our gentlemen for many ages. It exifts at prefent only in the Highlands. The Gauls knewnothing of it : nor was it a fport of the European, nations. The Afiatic-ks, however j were univerfally fond of it. Polwhele's Hift. Views, vol. i. p. 405. the THE ISLE OF MAN. 35 the more regular mode of legiflation, which fubfifted in 1764; and from the laft century, with few exceptions, the legiflative authority has been vefted in the Governor, Council, Deemfters, and Keys.-f Thefefour eftates are, whenaflern- bled, termed a Tynwald court, and by joint concurrence .they enacted laws. The lord's proprietors had for a confi- derable time the title of royalty, and had the fovereign con- troul of government in every inftance, under certain reftric- tions. With refpect to the perfons who had a feat and voice in the Council, various opinions are held, and it is at prefent a matter of controverfy. The deemfter (Moore) confiders it to have confined of the treafurer, or receiver^general; the comptroller; clerk of the.rolls; water-bailiff; attorney-ge neral ; two deemfters^ archdeacon, and his official; bifhop, and his two vicars-general; — and the clerk of the rolls adds to thefe the collectors, and confiders 'the bifhop, arid other ecclefiaftical officers, as :only intitled to attend, this council when fummaned. The attorney -fgeneral differs from each: he confiders fame fpiritual officers to have had a fixed feat, but does not allow all above-mentioned. He further con fines the rjght to fuch lay-officers as compofed the lord's houfehold, and acted in his minifterial departments. He doubts the propriety of the deemfters, (though he admits they have never been abfent) and excludes the collectors. So that according to him, the Council were, the receiver- general or treafurer,; comptroller; cleric of the rolls; water- bailiff or collector; the attorney-general.; and probably the bifhop and archdeacon, and the vicars-general and official, as occafional members. f In this ftatement of the branches of the Legiflature, 1 have dif fered from .the commiflioners, who. .ftate it to be vefted in the Lord Proprietor, Governor and Council, and .34 Keys. d 2 By -36 a tour.:through By the Manks ftatute-book,fome of the fpiritual officers appear to have enjoyed the privilege for a feries of years ; . an enumeration of the acts with their fignatures is annexed to the memorial of the prefent bifhop and vicar-general, in fupport of their claims ; for in 1 776 and 1777, the then go vernor, excluded them from the council, and from having any fhare in the legiflature. This is a delicate queftion, and it would be highly improper in me to offer, as a ftranger, any -opinion;* Tha acts ftated asfigned by the ecclefiaftical de partment, are acts of general concern, not confined to, or connected with ecclefiaftical affairs. * It is~contended for, by fome, that, however the Governor's Council might have been formerly compofed, it can now confift only of thofe who are appointed to the offices of government by his Ma jefty. They alledge that the holders of particular employments had a right to fit in council, only became they were nominated to fuch em ployments by the then fovereign of the ifland : that on this principle, none ought now to be confidered as legal members of that body, but thofe who derived their appointments immediately'from his Majefty - that the bifhop and other fpiritual officers, being nominated by the Duke ofjA^hol, muft therefore be excluded, inafmuch as (whatever ground their pretentions may have formerly had), a right to a feat in the council of the fdvereign cannot flow from an appointment made byXuibjecTr; that the receiver-general, the comptroller, and water- bailiff, ;muft like wife be excluded, becaufe they are created either by figh manual or treafury constitution, and not by patent under any of the royal feals". In point of fact, from the time of the reveftment down to- a recent period,- this council has been attended only by the deemfters, the attorney-general, and the clerk of the rolls. The fpiritual officers have lately claimed to be admitted, and their claim, though protefted againft by the then attorney-general, has been allowed by the lieut -governor. They contend, that if ever they had the right, they muft ftill continue to enjoy, it ; for that ij has not been altered by any exprefs words, and cannot be taken away by mere implication, efpecialiy an implication which is by no means necefiary or direct. Abatement has been feht to England for his Majefty's determination. The THE ISLE OF MAN. 37 The duty of this council was to afiemble when called on by the lord proprietor, or his governor, and give their aflent or diflent to the laws propofed. The 24 Keys, or principal commoners, were anciently ftiled Taxiaxe, and the worthieft men in the land. In King Orrie's days, fix. of thefe were chofen from the out-ifles; when all were chofen in the ifland firft, is, uncertain, but in 141 7, the records ftate 24 keys as concurring in publick a£ls, and they continue the fame number. On a vacancy, the houfe prefents two names to the governor, who choofes one, and then he takes the oaths and his feat, which is for life, unlefs he refigns, is expelled,, or accepts an office that ra tifies him to a feat in the council. The qualifications are, to be of age, and to poffefs freehold property; rion-refidence is no difqualification. They debate upon, approve, or reject any law propofed to them. During the feffion they adjourn at pleanjre, and they can appoint committees for bufinefs; but their ability tp continue the feffion, and the governor's authority to prorogue them before they choofe to feparate, are points not agreed on. Their privileges are to elect a fpeaker, who is to be ap proved of by the governor, and he holds the office for life without emolument; he has,. however, a right to kill game, and an exemption from fervices to the lord. A grand court is held once a year at the Tynwald-hill, were all acts are read publickly, and henceforth become bind-, ingOn the people. The acts of the legiflature thus conflituted, are binding in all cafes. The ftatute-book prefents laws and enact ments, reflecting every object of legiflation publick and pri vate, functioned by a long courfe of years. Having thus confidered the legislative parts of govern ment, we proceed to the executive and judicial parts, confifting ' of 38 a tour through off a council in the nature of a privy or executive council, and frequently ftiled the Lord's Council ; the courts of judi cature ; and the magiftrates, and minifterial officers. The laft councilus; mentioned in early Manks ftatutes, and when on emergency furrrmoned by the governor, acted in a fum- rnary way,-wjthout? #ie concurrence of the houfe of keys or lord proprietor: From their proceedings not being conducted with regularityj or minutes kept of them, doubts are en tertained reflecting the perfons who were to be confidered as. members of this council. The Courts of Judicature are next the objects of enquiry, It may be necefiary here to notice that the ifland is divided into theNorthand South diftricts; fixfheadings; feventeen parifhes; eack fheadiflg has three parifhes, except Glanfaba, which, has only two.- And there are four inferior baronies, viz. Bifhopte Barony; Abbey-Rufhen ; Bangor and Sabal, and St. Trinian's. Many of the courts are not fo much diftinct courts, as the fame court or perfons acting in different fituatiqns and- on different fubjects:* The governor, as re- prefenting the lord, was, by an ancient rule of law, authorifed to hold cognizance of all- pleas civil and criminal, and with the other chief officers feems- to have formed', originally, a kind of fupreme court, which aflumed anuniverfaljurifdiction. The courts of judicature are, civil, ecclefiaftical, and criminal, COURTS OF CIVIL JURISDICTION, ift, The Court of Chancery, where the governor is chan cellor, affifted by the deemfters, and fuch of his council as he * Several- regulations in this refpeft are wanting ; the offices of governor and chancellor are very improperly joined in the fame perfon. The office of deemfter. feems a proper ftep< to the latter; and the deemfters Jhould be rendered" independent of fees for many reafons. fhall the isls of man. 3^ fhall fummon. This court has a mixed jurifdiction in mafc- ters of law and equity, and is more frequently reforted to in the latter than the former capacity. It is faid to, have its origin in the power of granting arrefts of the perfbn and effects, which in civil cafes belonged to the governor alone. Caufes commenced this way were termed, common. actions., which brought the fuitors into the Court of Chancery, and the caufes fo brought were, as the parties chofe, or the go vernor ordered, either retained to be determined, or trans mitted to fome other jurifdiction. Suits were likewife in- ftituted before the governor, as chancellor, where full redrefs could not be obtained by the other courts. 2. The Court of Exchequer comes next; in this the go vernor prefides, with fuch of the council as he chepfes to fummon. This court takes cognizance of all difputes or offences relating to the lord's revenue, rights, or prerpgativesj and profecutions are here carried on for the recovery of per nalties incurred by frauds upon the cuftoms. It alfo exercifes a criminal jurifdiction over mifdemeanors, and all fpecies of wrongs, which have incurred a fine to the lord : like the Court of Chancery, it proceeds without a jury,unlefs the governor thinks fit to fummon one, and their proceedings are regiftered in the Liber Scaccari'u From thefe courts lay an appeal to the lord proprietor. 3. The Common-Law Courts, the ftyle of which is termed, " before the governor, and all the chief officers and deem fters," were held at different places for different fheadings. Thefe may be confidered as courts of common pleas; here are tried all actions, perfonal or real, by a jury of fix of the fheading in which the lands lie, in cafe of real actions; and ai four of the defendant's parifh, in actions perfonal. The verdicts of thefe are liable to be traverfed, and a new trial obtained by another jury of twelve in real, and fix in perfonal . actions. 46 A TOUR THROUGH actions, ¦ Another traverfeis allowed to the houfe of keys, and: both thefe rriay eondemrf the prior juries to be amerced. The courts of common law alfo entertained cog nizance of thofe denominated in their ftatutes bloodwipesi, where the trial was by a jury of fix, and the penalty fixpence with cofts, •• When the common law courts are finifhed, the governor,- and thofe who compofed it, fit as a Manerial Court, cominonly called a Sheading Court, attended by a jury termed a Setting gtiteft, who' prefent any change of tenants of the lord.* The baronies before- mentioned have like- wife their courts within themfelves, and try felonies com mitted in their diftridts by a jury of twelve. Bfefides thefe, are the two Deemfters Courts, one in the 'Northern, the other in the Southern diftridt. Thefe fit more frequently, and are more generally- reforted to, than any of, the others. In each of thefe one deemfler alone prefides, and has a power to decide all caufes- in a fummary-way with out the intervention of a- jury, according to the traditional and unwritten laws of : the , fand^ here termed breaft laws. Thefe courts are held once a week, • or 'oftener if required. In all civil and criminal matters, their power is great. -; ir* civil cafes, an appeal lies; to the governor and council. The deemfters were always officers- of great dignity; they were not only the chief judges of the ifle, but were alfo the lord's privy JCQU'nfell'drs; and their influence over the peo ple, in fame degree, refembled the civil-authority of the an cient Druids. - They were efteemed the venerable oracles of juftice, arid in their bofoms refitied the laws, which only on important oceafions were divulged' to the people, * Tenants had the occupancy gjveri'them by the delivery of a ftraw, which was the cuftom of all bargains in England in early times, from whence the- lawyers life the wordfiipu'ate, becfrafe ttt% cbntracr, was ratified, per traditknem stipula. THE ISLE OF MAN, 41 The court of the Water Bailiff, who is alfo {tiled Admiral, takes -cognizance of all caufes of action or mifdemeanaurs. below full fea-mark, and of all maritime affairs, by a fpecial jury of- merchants or feafaring men; but appeal lies to the governor and council. The Spiritual Cburts are confiftory courts, .held alternately by the bifhop. and archdeacon, or their deputies. Thefe courts have more extenfive powers than the Englifh fpiritual courts. They npt only determine the validity of wills, &c. but fuftain all caufes reflecting them, and all fuits againft executors, &c. Befide inflicting church cenfures, they can detain the party in the ecclefiaftical prifon, a fub- terraneous prifon in Peele caftle; and that as a definitive fentence; and the appeal was to the Archbifhop of York. But their powers are now exercifed in the mildeft manner. The fuperior court of criminal judicature is the Court of general Goal Delivery^ and in this the governor, council, and deerhfters, with the addition of the keys, prefide ; and here are tried all capital offences. The prqfecutions in this court are carried on by prefentments or indictments, and for frauds upon the cuftoms. by a: verbal information from the feizing officer. For making thefe prefentments there are a variety inquefts, No culprit can be tried in this court, but by a jury of twelve. The attorney-general conducts the profecu- tion; and when the defence is heard,. and the jury agreed, the deemfters demand of the foreman in- Manks, if fuch of the council as are ecelefiafticks may remain in court; if, he anfwer, they may not, they withdraw; and the verdict is delivered. Upon conviction the deemfter pronounces fentence, and the governor refpites execution, until the fen- tirnents of the lord are.known, if he be not prefent. This court is held twice a year at Caftle- Rufhen, and its proceed- jngs,"fince 1680, havebeen inrolled in the Liber Placitorum. There^ 42 A TOUR THROUGH There are feveraljuries in the ifland, viz. i. The Great Inqveft, which confifts. of twelve in each fheading, returned by the coroner, to.make prefentments par ticularly enumerated in the Manks ftatute-book. This has lately been abolifhed. 2. The Setting Quefis, of four of the lord's tenants : their office was, when any lands fell to the ford, to difcover a pro per perfon to. whom they might be fet, and compel him to become a tenant thereof; ferving as a homage jury in the fheading, or manerial courts, where the fame bufinefs was tranfacted as in the courts of copyholders in England, and in, a fomewhat fimilar way. Befides thefe, Trefpafs Juries, and Juries of Enquiry; confifting each of four men, oecafionally fummoned by the deemfters, on any trefpafs or damage committed; in order to difcover the offenders if pofiible. The ftatute-book alfo contains provifions for fome other juries, for placing fervants to work, and for the protection of the lord's game. The advantages refulungfrom thefe juries is confiderahly lefl"enedK by the irregularity to which they are liable. The forms of proceeding in the courts are mentioned as not more orderly or exact than the confiitution of thofe courts. The procefs of appearance was formerly a fummons from the magiftrate, by the initials of his name infcribed on a bit if (late or aftone; but now it is in writing. Decrees and judg ments at one time were given orally, at another put into writing : the execution of them was by the moar in the court of Common law ; by the coroners, for the other fuperior courts; by theferjeants, in the inferior manor courts; and executed by thefumner, for the ecclefiaftical courts, I fhall here explain the duties of thofe inferior officers juft mentioned. In every fheading was a coroner, who ferved fummonfes and other proceffes, returned juries, levied fines THE ISLE OF 'MAN. 43 fines and executions ; collected certain of the lower dues arifing on cafualties ; and for thefe, and other purpofes, was to take inquefts, and attend moft of the juries and inquefts impannelled by the deemfters or fuperior courts, and might conveneand fwear others, fome permanent, fome occafional. He alfo takes inquefts as in England, in cafe of hidden or violent' deaths. The ferjeants in the feveral baronies were civil officers, in the nature of moars and coroners. In each parifh is a deputy or affiffarit to the coroner, termed a lockman. The high fumner is an officer of very ancient appoint ment, invefted with other very confiderable powers, and is a kind of general executor to all aliens dying in the ifland. He can take an inventory and valuation of their effects, to pay burial expences, and to diftribute the refidue amongft the creditors, In each parifh are alfo perfons called moars, who collect: the lord's rents and fines, and act as fervants to fome of the courts; each has a deputy, termed a fumner, ' If any of thefe minifferial officers want aid, the military or trained bands are immediately ordered to their affiftance. The foperintendance of the principal towns is committed to officers, ftiled Captains of the Towns, who are confervators of the peace, and have a power of removing all nuifances or pbftructions in the ftreets. The military force of the ifland confifts of the garrifons pf Rufhen andPeele, and the militia, in which every man from 1 6 to 60 is liable to ferye, except the keys and a few others. The command of the militia is committed to a major-general, captains, and fubaltern officers; the major- general has the foperintendance of the whole military force pf the jfland. The captains, &c. are appointed by the go vernor; and the militia are commanded by their own officers, liable 44 A TOUR THROUGH fiaj)le to. be embodied and called out when the captains, chpofe. They are .not intitled to pay,and are armed ,moftly atitheir own expence. '¦-¦¦.¦„:: ,r Thus the cqnftitution flood at the reveftment, and the alterations fince; are few— that ait only transferred the fove^ reignty from the. Lord Proprietor to thtKingi It made no tjther change in the conftitution, but what that transfer he- ceffarily occafioned, Regulations are made in the courts as required, and the common law-court is held four times a year inftead of twice, and is ftationary at Caftle Rufhen.* The fuggeftions, for the benefit of the ifland, form the fourth part of the commiflioners report, and this is accom-r panied with, plans of harbours, &c. It refpedts the legifla-* uire,fhe laws, and adminiftration of juftice; falaries of fome of the officers, publick buildings, harbours, and lights. Mr, Reid fubjoins alfo his own obfervations on the various topics of enquiry, and which are of fome length. Thus I flatter myfelf I have given a fatisfactory, though but a brief idea of the " Report," from which I fhall prs- fent you with a few tables iri a future letter, * See farther regulations by act. of Tynwald, 1796, in ftatute iaws,&vo. < . ...,'.' LETTER THE ISLE OF MAN. 4$ *mW®IW^R»w LETTER IV. To the same. " The care of farms we ling — attend the flrain, ¦ " What fkill, what toil, ftiall beft procure you gain : ." How different culture,. different grounSs requires, • .«' .While wealth frewards, Whom induftry infpire6."J » DEAR SIR, - *V7TJU will not be furprifed, that fo able and vigilant a ;¦ committee as the Board of Agriculture have extended their refearches even to this remote appendage to the Bri tifh crown. When afl their Surveys fhall affume a more cqndenfed form, and appear before the publick eye in a. more finifhed ftate, it will exhibit a. gratifying and pleafing view of the improving ftyle of agricultural arts, and of, the capabilities of our country, of ftill adding, beyond conception, to the lux uries of the rich, and to the comforts of the, poor. A plan for fuch a republication (by the Prefident of the Board) is prefixed to the new edition of Mr. Billingfley's Survey -of the Agriculture of Somerfetfhire? *8vo. ;-,:': Mr, B. Quayle, whofe brother had a medal voted by^the Society of Arts for the invention of a Pentrough^ forequa- * For a defcription and plates of which, fee Repertory of Arts, No. 17, forO£tober 1795. lizing 46 A TOUR THROUGH Sizing water falling on water-wheels, was the perfon who fent to the Board, the agricultural flate, of the Ifle of Man. This account I fhall now abridge, adding fuch additional in formation as occurred to me. Divifions of land .prevail here, termed ghtarterlands. It is uncertain how they obtained the name, or why they were firft divided into fuch parcels. It is not fuppofed to have been by reafon of their original value, as the rent payable to the lord for fome quarters of land, is nearly double to that of others. Nor could it be by admeafurement, as they vary in dimenfions ; they are con fidered to be one hundred acres more or lefs. In William Ifts. time we read of hides of land in England, thefe quar- terlands feem to be analogous to them, in point of fize and variety of dimenfion. Quarterlands are in the Ifle of Man, confidered to be property of the higheft nature. They are (although fubject to the payment of afmall rent to the lord of the ifland) ab- folute eftates of inheritance, defcendible from ancefter to heir: they Cannot be drfpofed by will, nor are they liable to the payment of debts. Lands under the appellation of in- tacks and cottages, were formerly confidered of a nature far inferior, and to all intents and purpofes, chattels real, were devifable by will, or in cafe of inteftacy fell to adminiftrators ; and were always the objects of creditors, when the goods moveable -or perfonal chattels were deficient. In the act of fettlement,they are recognized as chattels, how far they are ftill fo, remains a matter of doubt; by an actpafled in 1777, It is enacted that they fhall no longer be confidered aflets in The hands of executors or adminiftrators, but fhall defcend to theheir at law. Whether by this ftatute the name chattel and the incidents are totally taken from intacks and cottages, or merely fo far as regards their being aflets 'in the hands of executors TtiE ISITE OF MAN. 47 executors and adminiftrators, is a nice queftion ; lawyers are not agreed, although fome decifions fince favour the former opinion. This much is however clear, that, if they are not difpofed of by will or other inftrument in writing, they de fcend to the heir at law, in the fame manner as quarterlands. Though thefe quarterlands are not fubject, generally fpeaking, to the payment of debts,, or devifable by will; yet this is not the cafe with fuch as are newly -purchafed, for in the ifland, purchafed-landi, though quarterlands, are on an exact footing with intacks and cottages. Nor in the laws of the ifland. is the -word purchafe equivalent to the Latin word perquifiitie, as underftood by the laws of England ; but fignifies a thing acquired for a confideration paid or to be paid., I annex a rate to fhew the proportion paid by quarter- lands,' to, thofe lands &c. which do not comeunder that title. A 'Rate oA Quarterlands 8Cc. Kirk Patrick 41 quarters. 35 qurs. at 2S. id. per quarter , Bangor and Sabel 6 q. at 2S. id. Intacks, cottages, and milns Kirk German, 52%. 39| lord's land - 1M< ld. . . 13 abbey land, at - J Milns, cottages, and intacks Kirk Michael, 45. 45 quarters at 2s. id. - Milns, cottages, and intacks - c *• d. 3 I2 11 O J2 6 1 5 2 5 9 101 1 11 9 4 J3 9 0 14 0 Balla, ugh. 4» A TOUR THROttffH Ballaiighi' 34! quarters, at 2s. id; - - Milns, cottages, and intacks - Jurbyt i8| quarters, at 2s. id. - - Milns, cottages, and intacks - Kirk Aridreasi 58 quarters,.at 2s. id. - Milns, cottages, arid intacks i Kirk Bridei 42 quarters, at 2s. id. - Intacks - - - -- - Kirk Chrijl Lez^Ayre;. 434* 331 quarters lord's lands \ j 10 abbey lands, at /' - Milns, cottages, and intacks ' Kirk Maughold, 40. 38 lord's land 2 ftaff land, at Milns, cottages, and intacks - Milntown Barony, 2 quarters w.\Kirk Lonan; 57^-: 52| lord's land - "I , ; J>2S. id. 5 abbey land, at- J Milns, cottages, arid iritapks - Kirk Marowrtf 34!; 3oi quarters - - T ^ _. 4 St. Tnnian s, at J Milns, cottages, and intacks -- • Kirk Santonh^ 34t ford's land, at 2s. id. -- Milns and intacks £• *• di 3 " \oi 3 10 ii i 19 o| * 5 91 0 b 10 3 7 S 4 7 6 0 16 4 4 ib 74 7 *7 2 Us, id.- - - 434 I * 4 0 4 2 5 19 9i 0 17 10 3 11 io| 0 *1 Ik 3 11 ioi 0 12 0 ¦ !'. Mdlewt THE ISLE OF MAN. 49 Malew, 66|r. £. s. d. 26| lord's land - "1 ,,s .„ , * : ?oof at 2s> id. 40 abbey ditto - J 6 19 "6-1 Milns, cottages, &c. - 3 ii 6 Arbory. 3 ii quarters at 2s. id. 3 ! 5 7-' Milns, cottages, &c. - 0 6 74 Kirk Chrift Rujhen, 40 ford's land - 1at2Sild> . . ii abbey ditto, - J 4 6 5i Milns, &C.&C. - - ' * 0 12 0 BifliopSk 19A quarters at 2s. id. - 211 Cottages - - - - - 0 10 0 Kirk Braddon, 561 , 38 lord's land - l . „ .j 0 >at 2s. id. - * 18 abbey ditto, - J 5 16 8 Milns, &c. - 0 17 10 Gonchan, 40 quarters at 2s. id. - - 4 3 4 Milns, &c. , ¦ 0 17 10 Number of Quarter-lands 759^ • A chain of hills and mountains runs nearly the length of the ifland, and occupies a confiderable part of the centre; they afford pafture for fheep, &c. and alfo fuel from the peat-mofles. The two extremities of the ifland may be termed low lands, and confift of good arable and pafture. The South end has different foils, the greater part is loam; ftiff clays, which are difficult fo till, prevail in fome places, and fand in others, e A lime> 5° A TOUR THROUGH A lime-ftone bottom lies under a very confiderable tract; but the expence of raifing it prevents its general ufe-as a manure.* . Sea-wrack, or alga marina, is driven in quantities afhore by winter ftorms, and proves an excellent dreflingfor barley ; it has been tried for potatoes, and anfwersas to quantity, but it is inferior in quality to what is raifed on farm-yard dung. The North-fide has 48 fquare miles of improvable land, moftly a fandy loam, on a bottom of clay or marl; it alfo contains an extenfive mofs, which has, within thefe 14 years, been improved by a large open drain. A tract of 500 acres of flat clay is dedicated to hay. The climate is rather milder than in the, neighbouring parts of Great-Britain and Ireland, particularly in winter, the froft and fnow being . flight and of fhort continuance; but the fummers want that heat which is friendly to Vegeta tion ; this caufes late harvefts, checks the grain as to its fize, and impairs the ftraw, Froft and fnow feldom appear before Chriftmas ; but gales of wind and rain are frequent and of long continuance; the eafterly winds in fpring check the progrefs of hufoandry. Many eftates are tithe free, paying an annual modus, or prefcriptionjvvhich ca,n never be altered. * The fubftrata of all foils about to be improved, fhould be in- veftigated ; a manure congenial may probably thus be found . Under clay, we . frequently find fand; and fand under clay; under flint, chalk; under whitp, lias, or ftone-brafh, rnarje ; under red-earth, lime-ftone ; under peat-bogs, fea-mud or clay. Dung mould not be applied for the wheat crop, as it makes the land foul ; and though there is a great burthen of ftraw, there is , but little corn. , It is moft beneficial to apply dung to potatoes, turnips, &c, and %o the artificial graffes, making wheat the laft crop in the courfe.;.,. BlLLINGSLEY utfupra. Leafes, fHE ISLE OF MAN. $t Leafes, till the year 1777, dropped at the death of the inheritor and leffor; but fince that time, leafes are granted for a certain period, on the fame terms as in England, as to treating the lands agreeable to the rules of good hufbandry. The value of land varies from ios. to 40s, per acre; and in the uplands, from 5s. to 1 2si. The right bf pafture on the commoris belongs to the publick. Moft farms keep fix cows, fome twelve, but rarely exceed twenty. The following is the diftribution of a crop on a farm near a town, in 1794: Numberof acres 270 ; rent2iol. Wheat, 26 acresi Barley and oats, 30 each. Potatoes, 24. Hay, from fown grafs, 40. Meadow, 10. Flax, 5. Fallow, 13. Pafture, 92. Plough -horfes, 6. Colts, 4. Saddle-horfe, poney, and ftallion. Milch-cows, 15. Fatting cows and heifers, 10. Bull, i; Grafting to fix cows. Horfes, 4. Sheep, 20. Houfe-fervant, two men, and three boys, with fix labourers, and 25 additional hands in harveft. Families, 7. Souls, 40; This farm was divided among fix tenants, who kept 16 horfes, and maintained 30 fouls. ' As the fifhery engages upwards of 5000 men during the moft important fummer months, the weeding and getting in of the harveft, &c. falls to the women, and the few men who prefer being on fhore. The women are expert reapers, and do many other parts of hufbandry. Threfhing is moftly per formed by them on the upland farms; and in digging up of potatoes they are little inferior to men. Mowers cut only 3-quarters of an acre a day. Five reapers, and one to bind, cut an acre of middling corn a day. A common plan here is to have the barn over the cow- houfes, but the cattle are never kept fo clean; and, if fatting flock, do not thrive fo well. It is alfo inconvenient and ex- penfive to drag in the crops. e 2 The 52 A TOUfc, THROUGH The farms are badly accommodated with offices ; and the dairy-maid, in milking, is not .accommodated with a feat' as in England. The feet of' rise cattle are tied withikaw ropes, to prevent their ftraying; this they call Lankettirig: there appears Something cruel in this mode, but the hedges are not fjifficient to keep them, being, only earth thrown up in the nHiafway, without any fencing or underwood at the top. The cottages are built. of earth, and covered with ftraw, iaftened with a netting of ftraw ropes, which lafts about two years* The inclofures are from four to ten acres. The fences are only banks of earth,- not fecure by any means ; gorfe or furze is feldom feen on the top. Dry ftone walls are adopted where they can be had cheap; they coft from i2d. to 2od. per yard in length, .five feet high, and two thick. The roads are wide, and 'kept in good order, by parochial labour,' (including three days labour from every houfe in the towns, the compofition for which amounts to about 750I.) by a proportion of the revenue from publick-houfe licences, of about i8cl. and a tax on dogs of 70I. amounting in the whole to about a thoufand per annum. The ploughs ufed by the fmall farmers are nearly like thofe formerly in general ufe in Scotland and Ireland, but not fo large or heavy; on lays or ftrong lands, they are in ferior to no plough, but the draught is greater than thofe with curved mould- boards. Mr. Small's, of Ford in Scot land, are in efteem; the draught being lefs, though the plough is heavier. Thefe coft in the whole about 50s. Good harrows are ufed, but drilling and hoeing machines are few. Carts are in general ufe with handy rails attached occafionally;: but I do not .recollect having feen any waggons. Corn is drafted by fanners. One threfhing machine coft a • farmer 50I. Thefe, when brought to perfection, will be one THE ISLE OF MAN. $$ one of the moft valuable inventions : about, twenty-five. bufhels- can be thus threfhed in an hour. The oat and! barley, ftraw is eaten by the oxen, fteers, &c, fo that they have but little to form dung- with, which is very fcarce. , Sea weed fupplies the fhore around, on the fourth- fid6) with manure. Lime-ftone is plenty in quarries, and on the eoaft of the, foufh fide ; it cofts 1 8d. per barrel of fix bufhelsi; and 50. barrels ; are reckoned enough for an acre. Sheep, &c. are , folded in many farms. Clay marl abounds on the north-fide. They lay 300 to 400 loads, of ten cwt. each, on an acre-. This will fe-rve for twelve craps;.. The cleanfipg of the wafhing tubs,, ufed in curing herrings* with the toeegwgs, is a fine manure. Fairs for cattle, and the manufactures of the ifland, are frequent, which renders many of them infig- nificant ; there are fix at which much bufinefs. is done. I was at one of thefe which was full of people, and ftiaredwith cattle; while at another, not 100 perfons were prefent. Many hundred head .of cattle are bought up and fent to England annually; jobbers come from Cumberland, and without waiting for the fairs, get about the farms and pick up whatever cattle fuits them : a great deal of bufinefs is done this way, and by a fettled, correfpondence. The fairs, there fore, do not give a {hanger an adequate idea of the ftock of cattle in, the ifland. Horfes are frequently brought from Ireland to this place; they are larger than the native ones. Every year produces a greater attention to the breed and rearing of the live. ftock. Formerly the ponies were, remarkable for their beauty, and were much in requeft in England! and Ireland to run in car riages ; but now their numbers are much diminifhed, as larger horfes. are found nao.re. ufefuL The farmers breed for their own ufe, and the iflan^l has: fome fine flallions. The old 54 A TOUR THROUGH old country ftock of cows are now feldom to be found ; they were fhort-legged arid thick-bodied, and more remark able for fatting than for milk ; fixteen quarts per day, for three months after calving, being confidered as a very good, produce; twelve quarts will be near the average return. Barrel churns are ufed; but plunge churns are moft com mon. Butter varies with the feafon, from 5d. to 8d. per pound of 1 6 ounces; and when falted in crocks, at 6d. and 7d. About iooo crocks of 3olb. each, are annually- fent to England. The cattle foon fatten in choice pafture, or when exported. -When fatted, their average weight is 8olbs. a quarter^ and' in proportion to that weight have 40lbs. of tallow, and- 6olbs. of hide. Calving cows and heifers fell in May from four to fix guineas. Dry cows and heifers for fatting, from 3I. 15s. to 5I. Oxen from theplough, from five to fix' guineas, and ufually leave with the grazier, from 2I! ios. to 3L ios. Beef varies with the feafon, from 2|d. to 4d. per pound. The native ftock of fheep is fmall and hardy ; when fatted, they weigh from five to eight pounds a quarter. They en dure the fevereft weather with little lofs : the meat is fine. This is ftill the mountain breed. In other parts a larger fort, a mixture from Scotland and Ireland, prevails ; weigh ing when fatted from twelve to eighteen pounds per quarter. The rot is fcarcely known ; but a diforder prevails which is occafioned. by eating a particular weed, which the Manks call Ouw. Its leaf deftroys the liver, and in about twelve months caufes the animal's death. On opening the fheep, this leaf is found 'attached to its liver, and transformed, into an animal having apparent life and motion, and retaining its fhape as an herb;*- "* This plant is the marfh penny-wort, {hydrocotyle -vulgaris) or w_hite rot, A plate of it may be found in Parkinfon's Theat. Sotan. THE ISLE OF MAN. 55 Two'pounds and a half is the average weight of the fmaller fized fleeces, and the larger rarely exceed 7lbs. It is not of the fineft or longeft ftaple, but the inhabitants make a ftrong cloth of it. Few wafh their fheep previous to {hear ing; the wool thus uncleanfed is fold from 6d. to 8d. per pound. Almoft every farmer referves as much wool and flax as employs the female part of his family. There is a peculiar breed of fheep, called Laughton, of the colour of Spanifh (huff; thefe are not hardy, and are more difficult to fatten. The natives like the cloth, and ftockings made of this wool. ; . Pigs abound and of good fize. The price for frefh pork is 2^d. per pound ; hams and bacon 5d. Poultry is alfo veryplenty: chicken 6d. per couple; fowls 1 2d. Geefeare numerous; the price from is. to is. 6d.. weighing from fix to eight pounds. Turkeys and ducks are alfo cheap ; quan tities are fent to England. Dogs of a mixed fort are very common, almoft a nuifance, notwithftanding they are taxed. A tract of 2000 acres has received immenfe and va luable benefit from a drain cut through the loweft places, ten feet wide, and fix deep; its length nearly fix miles ; the foil peat-mofs, and clay, with abundance of marl. Botan. folio 164.0, 'p. 1214. . It occurs frequently in marftvy grounds, and the inhabitants on this fide the water believe it to be the occaiion of the difeafe in fheep, called the Rot. But Dr. Withering bbferves, in a note, " that it may be made a queftion, " whether the rot in fheep i$ fo much owing to the vegetables in " marfhy grounds, as to aflat infect called 'a fluke (fafctdla hepatica) " which is found in thefe wet fituations, adliering to the ftones and " plants, and likewife in the livers and biliary diifts of fheep that " are affecTied with the rot." I am obliged to my friend Mr. Wray, jun. of Saliftmry, for the communication of this note, to whom I fhewed the plant in queftion.- — C. Bauhine calls it Ranunculus aquaticus cotyledanh folio ; others, Cotyledon palujlre, and Hydrocotyle, Vid. Hill's Brit. Herbal, 419. The Ranunculus arvenfts, or corn, Vow-foot, is faid alfo to injure fheep. c6 A TOUR THROUGH On good land the moft approved rotation of crops is, ift. Potatoes, or turnips, well dunged. 2d, Barley. 3d. Clover. 4th, Wheat. 5th. Oats, or Peafe. On the marled land of the north fide, twelve crops of peafe, and barley alternately, are often taken, and fometimes fifteen, without any other affiftance than the drefling of marl, or even throwing in grafs feeds. Barley is chiefly fown. Wheat, befides its requiring a difference in the condition of the foil, is fubject to fmut, and its ftraw is not fit for fodder; this operates againft it. 5000I. is in confequence annually paid for flour imported — Barley is found belt adapted, ex cept oats, to the foil and climate. There are two forts fown; the four-rowed, which is only fit for malt, and the two-rowed, which is ufed for bread, and is the general food of the lower claffes, with whom oats is alfo a confider- able part of diet. Horfe-beans are little cultivated as yet ; thefe are productive, but are difficult to fave, as moift wea ther attends the latter end of harveft. Peafe, on the north fide light lands, are cultivated. Rye is little fown at prefent; before marling was fo much ufed, rye occupied the land now fown with wheat. Potatoes are grown in quantities. Turnips* are fuited to the climate; fuccefs has attended their cultivation ; and they begin to be * An acre of good turnips will (between November and March) maintain one hundred fheep fix weeks ; and an acre of cabbages two months. An acre of^ good turnip-rooted cabbages will main tain ons hundred fheep through the trying month of March. It is fuppofed that a little hay will be given with the roots. Devote at leaft one quarter of your turnip land to the Ruta-Baga, or the Swe dish turnip, which will bear the utmoft feverity of weather, and will remain found when the other turnips are all rotten. Sow early in May, and treat it, in other refpefts, like the common turnip. The root does not attain the fize, buf is weightier, and confequently more nutritious, Bilungsley. adopted. THE ISLE OF MAN. 57 adopted. Turnip-rooted cabbage, and fcarcity root, have not been found to anfwer. Carrots have been grown for cattle, but the expence of weeding has prevented their cul tivation, Different kinds of winter cabbage have been raifed for feeding of milking ftock, and were found very convenient. The growth and manufacture of flax is very general through the ifland ; almoft every farmer and cottager grow ing a little, both for the ufe of their families and for expor tation. The linen cloth is particularly well manufactured, and finds a ready fale in England, where 5000I. worth is annually exported ; the price from is. to 2s. per yard. Hemp is fown in gardens, or very rich fpots of land, but very rarely feen cultivated in fields. Grafs feeds are generally fown with their fpring crops. In fhort, there is no doubt, if a Society for the improve- merit of the land were inftituted, and information and ad vice circulated, by means of fmall cheap tracts on the fub ject,' but that the happieft effefts woiild flow ; and from the very great and beneficial changes that are obfervable within thefe laft twenty years, we may predict that the ifland will rife to that degree of confequence it deferves, at no very diftant period. Even the moft barren parts of the mountains, when planted, may be productive in time ; and that elegant poet Scott informs us to what they may be adapted : " On barren mountains, bleak with chilly air, " Forbidding paft'rage, or the ploughman's care; " Laburnum's boughs a beauteous bloom difclofe, " Or fpiry pines a gloomy grove compofe." The Scotch fir (fays Mr. Billingfley) will endure almoft any feverity of climate, and the beech will refill: the deftruc- tive 58 A TOUR THROUGH tive influence of the fea-breeze ; next to thefe, in point of hardinefs, are the larch, fycamore,* afh, and birch. We find alfo that the whitty, or mountain -afh, grows in the higheft and coldeft fituatioris, and is the laft tree we meet in going "up the Welch hills ; where the lower clafs of peo ple make a thin beverage with its red berries fermented. "And. whitty glitters up the mountain's fide— r "The hardy whitty, that o'er Cambrian fnows *' Beams its red glare, and in bleak winter glows. Knight's Landscape, a poem.'''' Hazels, yews, and hollies alfo, as they grow in all foils, we may hope, at a future day, to fee adorning the barren fides ©f Mona's mountains. — Adieu. * This is more properly the, great maple ; in Scotland it is called the plane tree. Mr. EJvelyn recommends it for cart and plough timber, being light and ' tough ; but afh is certainly better. See. Ac e r, in the new edition of Miller's Gardener's Dictionary, 2 vols. folio, 1796, Rivingtons. LETTER THE ISLE' OF MAN. 59 '( LETTER V. To the same. tf Content of fpirit muft from fcience flow, f For 'tis a godlike attribute to know." DEAR SIK, rT*,HE enlightened Mankfman, if he js fond of his native -*- ' language, muft lament the barrennefs of its literary field, and the almoft daily difufe of his mother tongue. The Englifh. language is preferred in general. * In the Church and in the Courts of Law, it is indifpenfibly necefiary : in general the lower clafs underftand Englifh, and few are wholly ig<- norant of it; yet they are more ready at, and attached to, their Manks. Douglas has two printing-offices, from whence jflue a, Manks almanack, and a weekly paper, at the price of 2id. intitled the Manks Mercury, both printed in Englifh. They have neither grammar nor dictionary, and few ex cept the clergy know Manks well enough to compofe in it.* In a letter to the Rev. Mr. Corlett, of Lez-ayre, in 1 774, from Mr. John Kelly, of Douglas, he enquires for all the proper names of places, &c, and adds, " My intention is to annex " thefe proper names, which will prove as ufeful as curious, *' by way of an appendix to a Dictionary of the Manks lan- * The Irilh language, alio, though fpoken by the inferior clafles, is ufed but by few of the fuperior fort ; and the books printed in it confift chiefly of devotional tracts,.— —7W in Ireland, " guage, 6o: A TOUR THROUGH " gauge,' which is almoft compiled." What has retarded this defign I know not, .,.„- _ „ .„., ..... The following curious obfervations on the Manks lan guage and cuftoms, is from the pen of the late learned Rev. Philip Moore: , . . ; : " One great caufe of their fecurity in the Ifle of Man, arifes from an ancient law, ftill in force, that makes it felony to enter any man's houfe, without firft calling thrice, Vel Peccagh s'thie ? ¦ A ny body within ? literally, Is there znyfin- ner within ? For, anciently, few houfes had any other door than a bundle of briars or brulh-wood, tied up clofe,. and bound all round with a ftraw rope, to keep out the weather by night;' and in the day, when they left their cabins to go to work abroad, they fet up two fticks acrofs the door, or a couple of flails, or any thing of that kind, which the law made it capital to remove, without permiflion from within, after calling as above. And this furnifhes another ftrong prefumptive proof for the originality, antiquity, and very exprefiive fignificance Of our language ; that the whole human fpecies is diftinguifhed by the term or appellation of peceagh,ibttX.\s, fiinner. For inftance, we fay, peccagh mie, for a good man or perfon, literally, a good finner. For a good chriftian, peccagh creeftee, i. e. a chriftian finner : peccagh ny gha, many a finner, for many a one : cloan ny peccee, the children of tinners, for all mankind. Would not this proof, taken from the very natural and moral ftate of man, incline one to conclude, that the Manks language is cdse'val, if not with the fall, at leaft with the difperfion at Babel, in both which incidents the whole human race were involved ; and univerfal guilt became the characteriftic of man. The term peccagh, man, or perfon, but literally and originally, finner, fhewing how religioufly we have preferved the me morial of thefe moft ancient, wonderful, and interefting ca- taftrophqs. " I am THE ISLE OF MAN. fJl tt I am well awareof what fome would infinuate, that the word peccagh is derived from the peccatum of the Latins ; not reflecting, that the Manks, the Welch, the Irifh, the antient Cornavian, and the Erfe, are all different dialects of one and the fame original language, and each of. them evidently de- ducible from the primaeval Celtic ; which all Antiquarians affirm to have been the language of all Afia Minor and Europe, for many ages, and long before, either Greece or Rome had any exiftence, or any peculiar language as dif- tinct nations." This language has many compound words, by which the ideas they are meant to excite are more forcibly impreffed: for inftance, laa, fignifies half, and bee, fignifies meat; when thefe are conjoined they form laabee, the Manks for a bed, which is vulgarly faid to be half-meat : — Again, laa, half, and noo, a faint, when joined as laanoo, mean a child ; very expreflive of the innocence of that ftate. Mr. Sacheverel remarks, that the Manks language differs no more from Irifh than the Scotch from Englifh, and that both are different idioms of the Erfe, or Highland. ' Bifhop Philips, a native of North-Wales, who tranflated the Prayer- book into Manks, obferves, that moft of the radixes were Welch, and that, but for his native' language, he could not have perfected the work. Mr. S. found in fome words an analogy to the Latin; as quifer a tye, for qui vir tecli, with an abbreviation common to the Irifh. He remarked, that the utenfils and terms of art were frequently Englifh, with a Manks termination, as dorus for door;~ thus they foyjougb a dorus, for drink at the door. In the northern fide, they (peak a deeper Manks than .in the fouth, being, lefs corrupted with Englifh. Profeflbr Thorkelin vifited the ifland in 1 790, fent by the ' exprefs order of his Danifh Majefty, to inve'ftigate the re mains 62 A TOUR THROUGH mains of Danifh power and dominion formerly in the ifland'. Mr. Townley informs us, that a gentleman of Caftletown prefented him with fome Danifh medals found in the neighs bourhood, and amongft them one of Canute. Mr, Pennant made fome parochial enquiries in the ifland a few years fince; but the liberal arts find few votaries here : fcience is difregarded, and polite literature little cultivated. A ftranger will not learn a language fo limited in its extent. And fuch is the ftate of the lower order of the Manks, that " Each wifh contracting fits him to the foil. " His hard condition, with fevere confrraiht, " Binds all his faculties; forbids all growth " Of wifdom; proves a fchool in which he learns " Sly circumvention, unrelenting hate, " Mean felf-attachment, arid fcarce ought befide.'' Of the publication of the fcriptures, the following fenti- ments (publifhed in 1769, inanaddrefs to the publick) give us the progrefs, &c. " On the acceffion of Bifhop Hildefley, he found us in a condition of the moft unfortunate Angularity, deftitute of the fcriptures in our native, language. And though a defign had been formed by Bifhop Wilfon, for having the New Tefta- ment in the Manks tongue, and the Gofpels and the Acts had been tranflated, yet they were not printed,* except a few copies * Dr. Walker, of Ballaugh, had a principal (hare in this tranfla- tion. Bifhop Philips's tranflation of the Common-Prayer, in 1C05, was obfolete. The Common-Prayer in Manks was printed by Oliver, London, 1765. The Gofpel and the Acts the fame year; The Epiftles and Revelations were printed in Manks at Ramfay, in 1767, by Shep- pard of Whitehaven, in 8vo. and the Common-Prayer, in nmo, Manks, at Ramfay, 1768; Lewis's Cateehifm, and Prayer for the Fifhery, THE ISLE OF MAN. 63 Copies of St. Matthew's Gofpel. Bifhop Hildefley, by his exertions and application to perfons of eminence, and to the Society for promoting Chriftian Knowledge, who generoufly approved the plan, was enabled to gratify the people with the New Teftament intire; the Common-Prayer; the Chriftian Monitor; Lewis's Cateehifm, and a Form of Prayer for the Herring Fifhery, all in Manks." " It is impoffible to defcribe the avidity (obferves the fame writer) with which thefe books are fought; with what joy and gratitude they are received : as matters of fa milies, and others, can now read to the ignorant and illite rate the facred oracles in their own language; whereas, before, they never did, nor could hear, or know more of them than what they could learn from crude and often extem pore translations. To the younger clergy this was a talk difficult and difcouraging; as it required the practice and ex perience of fome years, to make them tolerably expert at fuch expofitions. And after all, every man had his own different manner, and different explanation, to the fubver- fion of all order and uniformity in our publick liturgy : but from this inconveniency and diforder we are now totally de livered, as the publick worfhip of God is every where per formed with all the decency and good order of the beft- regulated congregations; thanks to the indefatigable zeal of our good diocefan, fupported as he has been by the con tributions of feveral munificent benefactors. " Animated with thefe fucceffes,and his own zealous heart, the bifhop is encouraged to promote and fet on foot a tranf- Fiftiery, in Manks, the feme year at Ramfay. Mr. Ware, of White haven, printed in the language, between the years 1771 and 1776, the Bible in 4to.; and in three vols. 8vo.; alfo the Common- Prayer in 4to. and nmti.j and Bp. Wilfon on the Sacrament, in Manks and Englifh. ' lation 64 A TOUR THROUGH Iation of the whole OldTeftament into the Manks lan^ guage; that his diocefe, in common with other Chriftian churches, may enjoy the full bleffing and benefit of the whole facred canon compleat; a work in which his clergy are now engaged, with a view that his lordfhip may be farther en abled, by future benefactions, to carry on and execute fo laudable and necefiary an undertaking, and to perpetuate the fame to future generations ; that the light and benefit of divine knowledge, enjoyed by all other proteftant commu nities, and reformed churches, may be extended to this dio cefe alfo. A diocefe which, though fo happily fituated in the very centre of his Majefty's Britifh dominions, and a fuffragan fee to the metropolitical jurifdiction of York, has yet been, through a feries of ages, deprived of a benefit fo eflential to the very exiftence of genuine chriftianity. " We juftly blame, and even reproach the church of Rome for locking up the fcriptures from her people in an unknown tongue: but how little different, and no lefs to be lamented, is our own Cafe, where the bulk of the common people un- derftand very little, and ' many thoufands nothing at all, of the Englifh language: though we have never been without the Englifh fcriptures, fince the reformation took place in thefe nations ; yet our people, in general, like their neigh bours, the ancient Britons, ftill retain their veteran, aborigi nal language." The Society for promoting Chriftian Knowledge, in 1 763, gave out propofals for printing Bibles, Common-Prayers, and other religious books, in the vulgar tongue of the Ifle of Man; and by the encouragement they met with, they were enabled to print and difperfe gratis, among the inha bitants, 2jdoo Church Catechifms; 1200 Chriftian Moni tors; 2000 Lewises Expofition; 1000 copies of the New Teftament in 8vo.; 1550 Common-Prayers, 8vo. and 100O in THE ISLE OF MAN. 65 in i2mo. Likewife 2000. copies of the Old Teftamerit in 8vo. and the fame number of the New, the former imprefs- fion being inadequate; and they intend to proceed in this charitable work, and to fupply the ifland with good books and tracts, or new editions of thofe already publifhed. By the fociety's books, for .1777, 1 alfo.find 3500 copies Of Bifhop Wilfon's Treatife on the Sacrament, "with the Original in the oppofite columns; and ', 300b Cbmmtin- Prayer-books, were printed. Of the monies raifed by the publick, the Society have a fund, unexpended, of iibol; New South-Sea annuities, 500I. of which was left by Lady Gbwer, as a perpetual fund for the fupply of the Manks fcriptures, &c. As fhe^ntereft has been accruing for fome time^ and as fome years have ela'pfed fince the laft diftributiojv it may not. be1 deemed amifs to folicit the attention of the fociety to this fubject, as I am credibly informed that a new edition of, the, Bible, &c. is much wanted at prefent. ... ,,....,; , ;— -^ -,._;_. -. ,, .,- I was furprized to fee Milton's paradife Loft in Manks. drefs, and a clergyman affined me that it. pofleffed merit. I fubjoin, as a fpecimen of the language, the Morning and Evening Hymns of Bifhop Kenn,* .tranflated by the. Rev.. Mr. Corlett, of Lez-ayre, whofe . correct knowledge of the language is generally allowed ; he attended the Rev. Mr. Moore, in correcting the prefs in London when the fcrip tures were printing, and I am under many ( obligations to him for a variety of information. * The Hymns are thofe'well known ones ; beginning, " Awake, " myfoUl, and with the fun, &c.j" and " Glory to Thee, my " God, this night, &c." HYMN $$ A TOUR THROUGH HYMN sen y FQGHREY. O' Anriym, dooifht, as lefh y Ghreean ' Role ki'art'dty chourfe g^s y vea veayn; Crle jeed meerioofe, as irree traaj Dy eeck da Jee dty wooife dagh laa. " Dry h.m deyr cailt, dy-,!eah ei'e thie';,, ' Lhigda daghka ve ceaut dy-inie; Dty cliurrym freill 'gys rere dty phooar; Te?n„oq bene cqoie fon y laa mooar, B^eynrick ayns dty ghlaare dagh; tra; - , -, Dty chree freill glen myr Greeap, 'vuplaa; f , Slanetraa dy vea toig leys ta j£ft: ;.;. . r ; Sheer fakin fmooinaght' dowin dt-y;rt, as mooads my phooar, Dy vochi-ymns gloryragh' dt' Ennym mooar. Gys Jee, fer-toyrt dagh gioot, ard ghloyr ! Moyll-jee eh, dagh cretoor jeh' phooar ! Mo.yJL-jee.yn Ayr, fhiuifh AinlynAmoo\ Moyll-jee yn Mac, 's yn Spyrryd Noo ! TrfE ISLE OF MAN. 67 . HYMN son yn ASTYR, C^ LOYR hoods, my Yee, nifli as dagh traa, f Son baririaghtyn dty hoilfliey bra1; Freill ufs, O freill mee, Ree' dagh ree, Fo fcaa dty fk.eean dy fauclit ayns fhee. Leihdou dagh peccah, jiu, Hiarn vie, Er graih dty Vac, eer Mac dty graih ; , Rhym pene, yn feihll, as rhyts, O Yee, My gadlyin noght, dy vod v'aym fhee. Leeid mee 'fy raad fheer Ihifin 'reih, Nagh Ihiafs dou aggie 'ghoall jeh'n oaie ; Kiare mee fon baafe, dy vod v'aym pooar Dy heet gys gloyr ec y laa mooar. My varrant flane ta orts, my Yee, Lefh cadley meen jean 'ooragh' mee, Lheid as nee yannoo mee breeoil, Dy hirveifh 00 ayns aght gerjoil. Tra ta mee dooifht my lhie fyn oie, My annym lhieen lefh fmooinaght' mie; Dagh Dreamal oik freill voifh my chree, Pooar'yn y Noid nagh boir ad mee. Dty Ainlyn noo cur hym, Hiarn deyr, Dy reayll mee faucht veih dagh dangear; Lefh graih as booife; O lhieen my chree, Dagh fmooinaght' broghe freill voym, O Yee. O cuin yioym rea rifh cadley^n theihll, Ayns niau dy vodd-ytfl marts ve reill, As marifh Ainfyn fbeer goaill ayrn, Coyrt gloyr as booife da Chiarn dagh ehiarn ? Gys Jee, fer-toyrt dagh gioot, ard ghloyr! Moyll-jee eh, dagh cretoOr jeh' phooar ! Moyll-jee yn Ayr, fhiuifh Ainlyn fmoo ! Moyll-jee yn Mac, 's yn Spyrryd Npo ! 63 A TOUR THROUGH To these I add'afe\t) questions, with the English. j ' - - ' ' -,"V" ¦ . < • " " ' -' ' ¦ l '?' "^ How do you do, friend? ,-.; .Kystq flnu charrey? . '«.* ? .X(k wijl> feer wie,. , , , it Ta mee er choayl. my. raad, Crevel yn raad gys Rumfaa? ~Ch"d ' hoddym loayrt Gdil'ck. Ta mijh laical Ihiabbee noght. To 'mijh laccal bee ennagh, ny oohyn, as iough-lhioon. Cie ta ennym yn faggyrt eui/hP Cre'n raad t'eh cummal? Ta mijh laccal baatey.' ' She vainjhty'r — cha ne' vain* .Jhtyr Vodd ufs loayrt Baprl? Cfe' n raad ta Mu H. cummal? Fodd/hiuifolhaih?, . Gy row mieeu; or, Ta mee kainlt booife di,u,. I am very well. :, I have loft my way. Which is the road to Ramfay ? I cannot talk Manks. I want a bed to-nighfj I want fome meat, or eggs, and ale. What is your parfon called ? Where does he live ? I want a boat. Yes, fir — no, fir. Can you fpeak Englifh ? Where does Mr. H. live? ; Can-you read ? I thank you. A ManksrPvoperi.- i ,, r Tra ta yn derrey vought cooriey lefh bought elley ta-fee hene garaghtee : — when: one poor, man relieves : another, God himfelf rejoices, at it; or, as it is in .the original, laughs outright. --T _ ¦ — The Lord's Prayer in Manks. AYR ain t'ayns niau; cafheric dy row dt'' ennym, dy jig. dty reeriaght, dty aigney dy-Tow jeant ery thalloo myr t'yh ayns" niau ; cur dooin, nyn arran jiu asg^gh-Jaa, as leih:dooin nyn loghtyn, myr ta-fhin leih dauefyn ta jannoo loghtyn nyn 01. THE ISLE OF MAN. 69 'pi. " As'ny ;leeid fhin.ayns ! miolagh, agh- liyrey fhiri veih oik. Son lhiat's yn reeriaght, as yn phooar, as yn ghloyr, fon dybragh as dy.hfagh. . Amen. : . .; - Of writers on the fubject of the ifland maybe mentioned Governor Challonen; Mr. fSlundel, of Crofby, during the ciyilwars,. in MS.. Ariother MS* written' io 1648, when, fays the Author,' wearied: with being fo often awakened at midnight by the King's and Parliament's troops, both equally feared:becaufeequaliy!:plunderingi I refolved toba- nifh myfelf for a time to the Ifland of Man, where divers nobjlifcyhaxkbeea baniflied by our Kings, &c. Mr. Moore; of Douglas, .. politely favoured me with, a view of this MS* To thefe may be added, Lord Coke, Drs. Heylin, Camden,' Sacheverel, Wilfon, and' Grofe.* A MS. . by Mr. Alex. Rofs, >ba died, in 1753, a copy of which is in the hands of G. Toilet, efq; iBetleyr Hall in Staffordfhire. . See alfo no tices ©fthelflfe of Man, in Waldron's Works ; Willis's Ca-' thedrals ; Ductor Hiftoricus;vol. ii. . FormulareAnglicanum, Form.; 21 1. .ilPeere Williams's Reports, 1329. Kelway, 202. King's Vale-Royal. ' Prynneon the 4th Inft. Selden. Tit. Hon. 24. Mich. 21, 22 Edw. I. rot. 21, Turn Lond. Qamphell',s Polit. Surv. and .probably in Gough's Britifh Topography, 4to. but this I have not feen. Other ;works- of. a later date, either in Manks or relating to the ifland, that have come within my knowledge, . are. as. fplfows: '¦ "1, A fhorfV.iew of. the prefent State of the Ifle, pf Man, humbly fobmitted to the ccjnfi.deration of the Lords of the * In Grofe'15 Antiq. vol. iv. royal 4toi are, A view and plan of St. German's" 'Cathedral ; a view of the ruins of St. Patrick's Church ; Peele Caftle"; two view's of Caftle-Ruflieri ; and one of •Sufhen Abbey, taken in i774> witkihort d«fcriptions. -, •¦" *.' ¦ -- Treafury, 70 A TOUR TH.RQUGH Treafury, By an impartial , Hand. London; Johnfoh, 1767. 6d>* 2. Aght Ghiare dy heet gys.tufhtey jeh'n Chredjue Chreeftree; Ny as toiggal jeh cateehifm nyKillagh kiarit fon yrnrnyd fle'h' aegey ellan vannin. 24mo. 1778. This publication may- be very proper for the Society for promoting Chriftian Knowledge ito adopt in their, next diftribution; as it is a fhort fommary of the Chriftian religion,' or an expla nation of the church cateehifm; and was tranflated into Mapks by Daniel Cowley, of Kirk-Michael, who was edu cated by Bifhop Hildefley, and by him apprenticed to a printer, He publifhed alfo Mr. Wefley's.Hymns in Manks, for the ufe of the Methodifts in the ifland. • ¦ 3, Rolt's Hiftory of riie Ifland, i2tno. 1782. ¦¦•'<¦' 4, Sharmaneyn liorifh, Thpmase Wilfonj-D.D. Chiarn afpipk Spdor as.Vannin; dy Kiairalagh chyndait veih-Bayrl gys Gailck.. Bath, prentithbrith R. Cruttwell, 8vo. 1783. -r-This work, eomprifing :one volume of Bifhop Wilfon's Sermons,§ tranflated by the Rev. Mr. Cotiet, was. printed at the expence. of the Rev. Dr. Wilfon, his fon. 5. Memoirs of the Houfe of Stanley, from the con- queft to the death of James, late Earl of Derby, in 1735; alfo a full defcription of the Ifle of Man, Ssc. 4to. p.. 238.. Harrop, Manchefter, 1783. (By Mr. Seacombe.) * A pamphlet was publifhed in 1 7 5 1 , intitled, ',' Liberty invaded, " &c." occafioned by one Mrs. Hingitone, being imprifoned in the jfland far a ddbt of her hufband's : the fubjeft was again refumed in 1756, in another pamphlet, by J. Baldwin, efq; 8vo. with this An gular title; " Britifh Liberty in chains, and England's ruin on the " anyi.l,inthe Jfle of Man, now commonly called Little-France, &c." Tfts author reprefents the Manks as enemies to the interests of Great- Sritain, and inveighs againft them for their treatment of this lady. § Bifhop Wilfon* in 1699, afid 1 707, publifhed fome fmall works in Manks and Englifh. THE ISLE QF MAN. 7 1 6.. Antiquitates Oelto-jNormanica;, containing the Chro nicle pf Man and the Ifles; abridged .by. Camden, and now firft. publifhed complete from the original MS. in the Bri tifh Mufeum; with an Fvnglifh tranflation and notes. . To which are added, ExtraiSsfrom the Annals of Ulfter, &C- &e. By Rev. James Johnftpn^, M- At rector of Maghera-Crofs,; and My S. Edin. and Copenhagen, , 4JQ. , Copenhagen, Aug. Fred.Stein, 1786.,,; ., ,, ; ,; . Mr. Gough, in his edition of Camden, 3 vols, folio, 1589, prefers Mr. Camden's copy of the Chronicle of the Kings pf Man, to that publifhed in 1 787 by Mr. Johrrfon, from a fine old MS. on vellum in the Cottonian library^ marked Julius A. VJI. 3. becaufe, in the former the. dates are all right in, the, ©riginaly whereas in the latter they are madefo by the editor in his margin. Mr. Camden's MS. begins with the death of, the. Confeflbr, rightly putting it ArD. j! 065. Mrv Johnftpne's begins forty-feven years fooner, 0% as he has corrected it in his margin, fifty-one years. Mi% C's begins at A. D. 1065, and ends at A.D. 1206; but has been continued in a later hand, to 13 16. Mr. J's copy begins at A,,D. ioqq, or 1015, and ends 1376, and contains fome additional matter foreign to the hiftory , of the ifland. — i — A flight comparifon of the two publications will fhew them to have been printed from different MSS.* 7. Literaiy Lovers;, an original Manks novel, by J. Brifcoe. , 8. Various Poems by Mr. Jphn Stowell ; viz. The Sallad^ a fatire,'4to. 20 pp. 1 790, The Retrofpecf, 8vo. pp. 55, 1790.; a political focal fatire. Beauties of Townley, yer- fified,4th. l6pp.' ; . ^.. < 9. ;B,elville and Julia, a, Manks novel, by Mr. T. Afhe. • Gough, vol. iii. 705. 10. A Journal f% -A TOUR THROUGH 10. A Journal kept in thelfle of Man, giving an ac count *6f the wind' and weather, &c. &c. &c. 2 vols'. 8vo. by Richard Townley, efq.' Whitehaven, -Ware, 1791. : 11. A general View of the Agriculture of the Ifle of Man, with bbfervations on the means of its improvement. 'S?y MrrBafil Quayle, farmer at the Creiggans.j near Caftle- toWri; drawriupfor theconfideratibnof the Board of Agrii culture and Internal Improvement. 4to. ' p. 4b, 1 794. ' '" rt 12. The Report of his Majefty VCommiffionerefor the Ifle of Man, 1 792',' large folio. . •¦:.¦: ' N.B.r Neither of thefe 'two laft- works were publifhed •" for fate. ' ' •¦ '' c'":: 13. A Tour "through the Ifle of Man; to which is fub-r joined, a review of Manks Hiftory. By David Robeftfori, efq; large 8vo.' plates, 1794. - ' " '' ' ' ' '14. The 'Statutes and Ordinance's of the Ifle'-of Man now in force, alphabetically arranged. 'By Thomas Stowell, advocate; infcribed to the Hon. -Alexander Shaw,- efq; Lieut. -Governor and Chancellor, 8vo. Douglas; Brifcoe, pp\ 170. ijc)i. ""' '"'•;:i x; -" : ¦"¦>?¦¦'¦""-'- ¦•'< ¦:' ''"15. Paradife' Loft, by Milton ; tranflated into MarikS by the Rev.'Thomas Chriftian, of Ballakilley, K. MaTown^ Douglas, Brifcoe, 12mb.no date: (probably 1796.) :; -••-' 16. Clara Lenox, or the Diftrefled Widow; a novel founded on fact sv ' Interfperfed with an Hiftorical Deferip- tion of the Ifle of Man. By Mrs. Lee. Dedicated to the Duchefs of York',' 2 vols.-i2rno. Parfottsj 1797^ ¦' " 17. In the Poems by Gentlemen of Devon and Gorri- wall, 2 vols, crown 8vo. are two fhort odes On' the Ifle of Man, from the claflical pen of the Rev. Mr. Pplwhele. ' i8. The Statute Laws of the Ifle of Man, from the ori ginal records. -By C. -Brifcoe, ^vo. 1797, pp. 240. Douglas. LETTER A THE ISLE OF MAN. 73 =am. S3i)ar. | TSur. • 2 TBap. sasw. "T-iir. 1647 6 0 1787 46 10 22 164S 17 2 J4 178S 55 10 20 1649 9 * 1 21 17V 39 11 25 1650 12 1 I,. 1790 54 6 24 1651 7 1 6 1791 39 »4 22- 1792 3° 17 8 1792 66 14 16 1793 29 r4 25 1793 3? — 11 i.S '794 32- 18 45- '794 53 9 17 *795 34 9 3« ...1795 45 10 H 1796 42 3 20 1796 4° 1 *3 . I5 Ramsay Chape J. Bride. 1792 ' 3'2 ; 0 7 - 1792 15 ' 7 <: 9 1793 33 0 4 '793 27 ., 6 6 1794 25 0 7 '794 '7 "1- 11 ¦1795 35 0 6 '795 21 12 1796 ' 30 0 3 1796 '9 6 16 1797. 31 0 ^ °-| ¦ -- .. ' ¦ Andreas. THE ISLE OF MAN. 75 And^ *eas. — 1 German. 1 — r- T5ap. <19nt.; Bur. ' tb«p.; t spat. 'Bui'. 1066 3' 6 17 I 790' 72 '5 3* 1667 30 9 18 1791 ,64 21 36 1668 35 ; 7 : ¦"3° i 1792 -88 '3 30 1669 *5 12 ; 59 '' 1793 67 '9 34 1670 38 19 ' 21 '794 68 . '5 • 49 1792 47 ... .tf 18 '795 76 '3 35 1793 49 i 8 16 .1 1796 "77 '4 42 1794r795; 52 47 . "9 '4 26 34 Patrick. 1796; -5.8 : ' to '35 ' /•„ 1681 26 6 ir . L ' i 1682 1683 '5 ! '9 33 id . 4 Jurby. 6 1684' 1685' 3' 18 6 3 1 1 43 1792 ' ZO~~ 5 1792 46 20 : 20 1793 24 '¦' 2 '3 '793; •43 ; '9 5 *794^ 22 :4 : tio '794 "47 12 18 '795 21 ' :5 . '- 5 '795 52; 24 : 2Z 1796 2S 6 , 8 -1796 JJL- 26 3' Ballaugh. M'arown, Marriages omitted. 17921793 32 40 58 6 7 ;- 8 12 10 1792 '793 2429 0 0 1112 1794 :i/95; 1796 33 32 , 40 0 22 8- z3 . '794179-51796 26 33"' 26 0 -' :0 0 34 24 '7 Michael. Braddon. 1792 37 10 23 ?792 56 34 58 1793 3° 9 17 '793 59 40 92 1794' 43 '3 24 '794 45 56 '45 '795 3» 12 12 '795 63 34 108 1796 33 10 21 1796 59 44 87 St. j6 A TOUR THROUGH St. George's Chapel. 1792. '793'794 '795.1796 1698 16991700i7or1702 1792 '7931794*'7.9S: 1796 ISsjj. 5° 59 7' So 69 o 1 1 1 o - Onxtmr TBur. 6 . .1 • 4 ... 0 8, ,.4 5 • .2 ¦ - 7 "5 39; ¦ 3 ( , 20: 0 3 i v 22! 3 -31 ! V-° 1 .'.?7j ' '51 '719 39 '724 3 8 3 .-5 8 10 16 '5'9.'7 Lonan. See parochial, account. Rushen. 17,92; 1 793| 1794 1795 1796 Bay.. q®ar.; 61 8 67 6 54 12 ¦ 7°. 11 .4° 9 Bur. '".' * ' Arbory* 1752: :S3 ; 1.0 ',793 ' ,38 ; .9 ! '794 44 7 '795 5-.«-.r- . 12 1796 47 1 ,* Sainton. , 179-! 19 : 2 ?-7i3; ,'i : 8' '794J '.'21 ' : 8 t795' '3 9 1796 _2±..- ...J 35 .37HI 21 '9. 2916. 3° 16J9 l'v';5 »5 '4 1 1 ' Matew- See parochial accounts N> B. The regifters in the moft early ftate, Ifouhd fo in correct as not tajuftify- a dependance on them." ! Inhabitants THE ISLE OF MAN. 77 Inhabitants at different periods ; Vicars, Rectors, ifc. ..,,*,.„• .-: . ¦.- .--¦¦ - in 1798. . . -" - .:,-,-,.¦-.;-- • 'PiysisijEs:. .vicars, 1,798. INH-AB-ITANTS IN"; , ; • - 1 e? v.. JGrk-M'ic'hael BaWutgtel - Jurby - Andreai Bride ,- - I*c%-ayrt Maughold - Rsmjay. - - Lonan - - Cone ban BraddonDouglas - t '¦' Marovun Santon - Mahw Cafiletotvn } Ballafalla)Arbory - K. C. Rujben Patrick - - German - > Bedttoivn $ -S«7>. John Crellihi ep'if. regfft. - '- ". ,* Daniel Gelling" — -,-.*• _. William Crebbin - , - , - . -. Daniel Mylrea, re&or, O. Ardid. Wm. Chicas, rector, V. G. Thomas Corlett - - - Thomas Cotjfroh'-' ..-'.: - -. Henry ;Maddreil - - - . * - Mr. Gell Thomas Quayfe* - - Robert Quayle -----. Mr. Stowell and Mr- Chriftian 7 Mr. Chriftian" and John Bridibn- ;,.,_ O. M. -, Charles Crebbin ------ Mr. Harrifdn, Mr. Clague '-""^ Thomas Caftley-M. A. - - ¦ John Chriftian - - - • John Clegg - ' Evan Chriftian, V. G. - - - Henry Corlett - < - - - J726 ' >757 '..'Ml' - 826 -806.' - 773J •4-3. -467. 967 1067 6x2 629 1309, 1481 529 759 ,,j*6p:) -,881 547 869' 37° 434 780 1121 810 ,1814., . — -658 : 376 . -5°7, 89o , '1466 785 9'5 360 661 . 7»5r 813 1007 245 .954, 510 925 475 805. 1792 1003 1015 -7.1 3-, '555 678 1721 f 2007 1408 690 ; 5045 1842. 512 3333 1 '43 1590 ,2153 2505 I N. B. Lieut.- Governor Shaw is of opinion that the ifland contains from '30,000 to 33,000 inhabitants, 1)797. The Ifle of Wight, which meafures 22-J miles from Eaft to Weft, and 13 miles from North to South, contains thirty parifhes^ and about 18,700 inhabitants, f * Mr. Quayle died March I7£8. ' f Warner's Hiflory of the Ifls of Wight,, 8vo. 1795. .. .,-..,„ r. Post- 78, A TOUR THROUGH POSfrOFFICE. . A. packet arrives from Whitehaven, weekly,* with letters andpaflengeFS} k fails Monday evening* from thence, (wind and weather 'permitting) ftays three day's in the iflarid, arid then returns. The poft-office brought in, previous to 1 79 1, on an average 346I. 13s. 7d. per annum ;,. this, has been in- creafing fince. TJie following is the produce from January 5> '797> t0 Ja£ma*y 5> 1798- /. s. d. Letters frdm and through London 195 18 7 Bye and crofs-roads ->--¦- - 262 3 3 458 1 10 From this is to be deducted the hire of the packet-boat, 15CL; poft-mafter's falary 20L- per annum; and the hire of the foot-poft to Caftletown, about 9I. per annum. Revenue from January 1790, to 1791. Collected at Douglas port - - 2793 o \o{ Derby-Haven ----- 104 9 5^, Peele - -> ----- - 31 19 2£ Ramfay ------ ^ 86 19. 4^ 3016 8 11 Payments, falaries, bounties on \ herrings, &c. -,_.-/- 327* 2. 2 N.B. I underftand that for feveral late years the revenue of the ifland,has been greater than the expenditure. * Seethe aft of parliament, anno feptimo Geo. III. cap. 50. As no department is more refpe&able than the poft-oftice, the fala ries fhould therefore be adequate to its utility, arid various incon veniences : it is here too fmall j a man and horfe ought inftantly to be difpatched to each townon the arrival of the packet. ^ - Duties THE ISLE Of MAN. 79 Duties on Articles imported. 1 Britifh fpirits, 46,000 gallons, at is. per gallon. Rum ditto, at 2s. per gallon. Bohea tea, 20,ooolb. at 6d. per pound. Green tea, 50001b. at is. per pound. Coffee, $oooIb. at 4d. per pound. Tobacco, 40,coolb. at 3d. per pound. Coals, 3d. per chaldron. French wine, 81. per tori. All other wines 4I. per ton. Other good's fo much per cent, ad valorem. Quantity of Wine imported. . ; In 1790, from Whitehaven, 19 tons 61 gallons of white. From; Sicily, 22, tons 93 gallons of ditto. From Oporto, 16 tons 240 gallons, and 17 tons 76 gallons, of port; and of white 34 gallons. In 1 791, from Oporto, 19 tons 249 gallons; 26 tons 85 gallons, and 1 ton 4 gallons, of port. From White haven, 247 gallons, of white wine; and from ditto, 1 ton 68 gallons. Quantity of Salt imported. For ten years, ending January 1791, were imported into the ifland of Man, 5,18,141 bufhels of fait from Great- Britain, duty free. From foreign parts,, during the fame period, 8880 bufliels. Quantity of Coals imported. From 178 1 to 1790, indufive, 33,932 chaldrons. Articles imported dutyfree. if. Flax, or flax-feed; raw, or brown linen yarn; flefh, corn, or grain of all forts; wood and weed afhes; coming from any place except Great-Britain. - - - 2d. White, or brown linen cloth ; hemp, or hemp feedj the produce or manufacture of Great-Britain or Ireland. 2d. Utenfils So A TOUR THROUGH 2d. Utenfils and inftrumerits, 'to- be employed in manu factures, fifheries..,_pr. agriculture; bricks, tiles, young trees, feaT (hells, lime, foapers wafte, packthread, and fmall .cordage for nets. . Afth. Salt, boards, timber, and hoops; the, produce and manufacture of . Great- Britain. S.th. Iron-rods, or. bars; cotton, indigo, naval ftores, lum ber; the growth &c. of the Britifh plantations in, Ame rica ; and all other goods of the growth &c. of the faid plantations, for which any bounty is allowed on importa tion into Great-Britain. Imported free info Great- Britain from the Island. if. Beftials, goods, wares, and ' merchandizes, of the growth,, produce, or manufacture of the ifland, except fuch as are prohibited, and except woollen manufactures, beer, arid ale. id. Linens, made of hemp or flax, riot being the produce of the ifland. But no other goods of a foreign nation ma nufactured either, wholly, or in part, in the ifland. Prohibited to be imported. Wrought filks, Bengals, fluffs mixed with filk or herba, of the manufacture of Perfia, China, or Ea'ft-India ; callicoes painted, dyed, printed, or ftained thefe; cambricks" and French lawns. . Brandy; Britifh fpirits exceeding 40*000 gallons.;- rum ditto; and all other fpirits. Bohea tea, exceeding 20,ooolbs.; green tea and coffee, ex ceeding 50oolbs., each; tobacco, exceeding 40,ooolbs. Britifh refined fugar, exceeding 400 cwt. fully refined; baftard refined, exceeding 10 cwt. Prohibited THE IS£E OF MAN. 8 1 Prohibited, to be exported. Brandy:, rum, ftrong waters, and- fpirits of all kinds; to Great-Britain" or IrelandL ; • ¦••' ¦ Teal, brandy, ftrong waters, and fpirits of all kinds;, coffee, chocolate, tobacco, glafs^ coals, Britifh or other: wrought filks,'falt arid Wine ; to any place whatsoever. ,...:*. Wool, woollen or bay yarn, live fheep; to anyplace ex cept Great-Britain. ¦ j- •"•'.•• : 5 - .¦'-.• Britifh refined fugar — to anyplace ,whatfoe.ver; :~ ; exports! ¦¦"--'¦' To give an idea of the growth, produce, and manufactures of this ifland, I quote the amount of exports under that de nomination, exclufive of grain, linen, beftials, arid herrings, which took place in 1790." To Great-Britain in 1 790; 1743 buihels of potatoes; 1 313 crocks of butter; 201 bbxes and bankets: of eggs; 7 barrels, of pork; i|- barrel of beef j 195 cow and ox hides, in hair; 56 dozen and 10 calf flans, tanned leather 3 cwt. 3-quartiers 131b.; cow arid bx hdrns, 1400; cow and ox hair, 26., cwt. r quarter 1 61b.; honey, 3 cwt. 1 quarter 24m.; kelp, 1335 cwt. ;, bees wax, 1 cwt. 3-quarters, 21 lb.; wool, and woollen yarn, 17 cwri 1 jlb^i linen yarn, 158 cwti 3-qrs. 151b.; lead ore, 69 tons. odd; rabbit-fkins, 257 dozen and 10. .' To Ireland, of rabbit-fkins, 103 dozen; feathersj iocwt. 3-qrs. 1 81b.; bacon, 49 cwt. 2-qrs. i61b.; Cotton twift, 40 cwt. .odd; lime-ftone, 143 tons; reams of paper, 1807; paving-ftories, 282 tons; cheefe, n cwt. odd; flate, 102 tons; fycamore, and afh timber, 80 feet; fern afhes, 17 cwt. odd; hair-powder, 1 cwt.; 130 hanks of candlewicks; 1 tomb or hearth ftone; and dried beef, 2-qrs*. 24IL m Articles. 82 A TO US.' THROUGH Articles intithd to. Bounty* Linens made in the ifland exported to Great-Britain, and re-exported from thence — the like bounty] as on Irifh. linens by 29th Geo.IL feCt. 13, ,.-,-, •' .,-„-.-,-: ..:.. , Herrings cured* white, is. per barrel <, ,, L; Ditto ditto, exported from the, ifland to foreign, parts,, 2s. 8d..per barrel. , .,."¦.., ,• *. •: - '" Ditto ditto, exported to Great-Britain, and re-exported to foreign parts, 2s. 8d. perjbarrej, -; • • , v: : ,..;.r.-; Herrings, cured red, exported from the ifland to foreign parts, is. 9d. per barrel., , ; Ditto ditto, exported to Great-Britain, and re-exported from thence to' foreign parts'," is.' 9d. per barrel'." ' ' Linen exported in tdn years, from 1 78 1 to 1790J Inclu- five. To Great-Britain, 506,365^ yards. "To: Ireland, 1564 yards. Cattle exported hi ten years, ' from ' tySi tb' ifo'a; inclu- fiver'To Great-Britajn, 727'ijorfes; 4019 black cattle; 238 fheep ; 248 pigs ; 1 mule ;" 4 goats. To Ireland, tI3 horfes;'. 4 black cattle; 12 iriules. ' In confequence, of that contraband trade, which is fo ge nerally known to' have prevailed in the ifland, government, as foon as it became poffefled of it, determined td'Iofe no time iri putting a final flop to fo injurious a traffic, arid there fore appointed commiflioners from London, Edinburgh, and Dublin, to enquire into its nature and effeCts, and report thereon' ; with the remedies neceflary to be adopted. Among other matters, .tKey ftate, the prejudices' to the King's revenue to have been nearly 350,0001. per annum; and the value of feizures on thecoaft of Ireland, 'from "the ifland, to have been ' nearly 1 o,oool. per annum. In confequence, fhea£tof5 Geo. III. paffed,and fome fub'fequerit ones, which have nearly flopped this illicit trade, by enaCting prohibitions and regu lations, 'THE ISLE OF MAN. #3 btions', fome. of which are ftated in this- letter1.- Buli the revefting ael:, :with thefe, greatly abridged their infular rights, and the Manks were deprived of fome of their ancient pri vileges. :They felt themfelves opprefled,' and ferit agents to England to aflert their rights before parliament; and pre vailed fo far as to procure^ in 1766, an'aCt for encouraging and regulating their trade,1 &c. and for raifing a reveriue' to eiffeCt the purpofes therein Anentiohed. Thefe aCts'riow ap pear to have had a beneficial operation, arid the inhabitants are perfe&ly happyurider the Britifh government; LETTER VIL To the same* .' OT1AR ?IK, THE fubjeCt of this letter is the ftaple cbmrnodhy of the ifland, Herrings; and I have the pleafufe of.aCc'drri- pariyirig it with a Poem on' the Fijhery, which was given me by a Manks lady;* The coafts of the Ifle of Man abound with a 'variety pf fine fifh."' The falmon frequents the 'bays from July to September. I was witnefs tqa hawl of izp, "ripar Ramfcyj ¦while, a few evenings after, his Grace of Atho^ with a partyj from the Deemfters, were riot lucky enough to' take more than a folltairy individual". The preference is rather given to the falmon of Kircudbright; a fmall veffel came into Ram fay harbour with a quantity frotn .th.«ae% which was fold for 3d. Manks per pound. • g 2 Their $4, A, TOUR THROUGH ¦ Tbejr rock cod; is efteemed fuperior ,-f# the grey,, or com mon fqrt; when fiijft. taken ifiispf a fin? red, colour, and of a; fuperior, fiayour to the others. -_-.-.,.¦, uj.. ¦"..,•; :,.:: ., . - A maripeaijiimal, called, the. Battlecock, ; is /pund fome times , flicking to, the rocks; it, has almpft all; the defirable qualities of the turtle, abounding with- a;fubftance, that -is. efteemed a fubftitute for the deljcious -green fat,, : „,A fifh termed- a Blockin,, fomewhat between a herring and a whiting, >and eels, , are, caught byline; and.! worms. The fands^bpund^itl^, fmall eels, called,, here Gibbons, or. Sand-Eels* Cod, ling, gurnet, and moft flat-fifh are plenty, and ex tremely good. But it is herrings which are their grand fup- port; it is thefe only can roufe the dormant energy of the Mankfman's mind, ftimulate him to induftry, and enliven the whole ifland. .'"XT '". '".-.' V .7 J From an eminent writer we learn that " Herrings, about the beginning of the year, iflue frorfi the remote receffes of the North, in a body furpafling defcription, and almoft ex ceeding the power of imagination. The firft column de tached moves towards the Weft, by the coafts- of- New- foundland, towards North- America. The Eaftern column, proceeding leifurely by the coafts fojf Ireland, ..fends off, one divifion ilong the .coafts of Norway, which foon divides into two, and pafles by the Straits of the,-Sound into the^altic; the other towards Holftein, Bremin, Sec,.., The larger and* deeper column falls direCtly upon the Ifles of Shetland and Orkney, and pafling.thefe, divides into two; the Eaftern cp- lumn moves by the fide of Britain, detachinggradually fmaller fhoals to the coafts of Friezeland, Holland, Zealand, Flari- l.'y i ¦ ' .'¦'?/:'/ - - ' ' '¦ ~f Li.,"- i .-*' Named alfo, Ammodytes;: Launce, Sand -Sprat; ufed as food, and as a bait. -;-,,, ders, THR ISLE-OE MAN* % ders, and France; while: the Weftern column pafles orithe other fide of Britain and Ireland. The remains of this body reafiemble in the Channel, and proceeding' thence to -the ocean, retire-to their afylum in the North^where in p'e&e arid fafety they repair the lofles they havefuftained. ' When-1 grown large,' theyi fct out again the next feafon, and make trie fame tour." .-!. , ;. . '•-¦'¦ Another writer* gives us. this account; <* The herrings are: found in the greateft abundance in the higheft Nbrthdrij? latitudes within the arCtic circle. In thofe inaeceflible feas, that, are covered with ice during a great part of the year, the herrings find a quiet and. 'fure ' retreat froni their numerous enemies ; there neither man, nor the fin fifh, nor cachalet, dares purfue them. r Thegreat colony fets out about the mid dle of winter; their nurnbers exceed imagination,' atld their enemjes *lfo are innumerable, efpecialiy the fea-ftjwl, near the pole, who, watching their emigration,' lpread ruiniaifiong- fhem; In this exigence the defericelefs emigrants have ho alternative, but to croud dofe' together. - - The main body feparates in two diviiions ; one moves to the Weft along the coafts of America, as far South as Carolina, and are fa numerous in Chefapeak-Bay as to beqome a nuifance. The other divifion takes a more Eafterly direction, towards Eu rope, arriving, at Iceland about-March, where, notwithftand- ing their iofs,; they form a body of amazing extent, depth, and clofenefs, occupying a furface equal in dimenfions to Great-Britain and:Ireland; fubdivided into columns of five rpiles: in length, and four in breadth, fwimming near the fur- face, but finking fometimes for fome minutes. The fore runners appear off Shetland, in April or May, and the grand * J^noj^ View pf the Britifh Emnire, 2 vc-U. 8vo. body 85- A TOUR THROUGH body in J'Une. h Their approach is known by a< filial! ripling pf the water, the reflection of their brillaficy, and the birds, vyhp attend them. ; i ' ¦ >• "One divifion proceeds along the Eaft fide of Britain,,the Oikrieys, MHJW&y'' Firth, coafts of Aberdeen, . Angus, and Fife; the great aiver Forth, Scarborough, arid Yarmouth, the ancient and once only mart in England for herrings. The other divifion from the Shetland iflarids proceeds along the, Weft fide of. Britain, and are larger and fatter thamthofe pf the Eaft fide; crouding the coafts. of Sutherland, Rofs, and Invemefs, whichi.with theHebride ifles, efpecialiy Long Ifland, compofe the greateft ftationaryhenring fifhery in Bri tain, that upon thetoaft of Shetland excepted; Having vifited moft of the Weftern fhores, the fhoal proceeds towards the North of Ireland, where, meeting with a fecond inter ruption, they are again divided into two brigades; onepaffes down the Irifh channel, and vifits the Ifle of Man, and affords an occafional fupply to the Eaftcoaft of Ireland^ and the Wgft coaft of England as far as the Briftol channel. Theiother fhoal, fkirts along the Weft coaft of Ireland, vifits the Lakes of Donegal, and then difappears in the immenfity of the Atlantic*". That peculiar fhape which nature has given to moft fifties, we endeavour to imitate in fuch veffels as are defigned to, fail, with the greateft fwiftnefs; but the progrefs of a machine is nothing to the rapidity of an animal defigned by nature to refide in water: any of the. large fifli overtake a Ihip in full fail with great eafe, play around it, and outftrip it with pleafure. The boat-builders are uncommonly clever, conftrucling entirely by the eye, making no ufe of line or rule, unlefs in laying the keel. The Manks boats are in fize from 23 to 33 feet in keel, and 13 feet beam, with 6 feet hold j they are THE ISJ.E OF MAN. 87 are Cutter-rigged,, fail remarkably faft, and withflanda heavy fea. . But the Virginian pilot-boats, I, have, heard men tioned as exceeding them in fwifthefsr of failing. . The fifiV ihg buffes* from the Weftern coaft .of .Scotland are pre cluded, bythe reftriCtions.of the revenue officers, from taking fifh on the coafts of the Ifle' of Man, or Ireland, . Manks, boats feldom. exceed, eight tons, and coft, inclu ding the nets, about 76 guineas. The. produce is divided into nine filares? two for the owner of the boat ; one for the proprietor of the nets; the. other fix to the fifhe/men. The nets are buoyed up by inflated bags of dogifkin dried in the fun, and fnaeared over with tar. Upwards of 400 ,bpats compofe the Manks fleet; , An Admiral and Vice- Admiral are annually eleCted; the one. is allowed. 5I, by govenrrient, the other 2l, for the feafon. Thefe .conduct the fleet to the herring ground. On leaving^ the harbour the fifhermen, with uncovered lieads, invoke the bleffing of Providence; — and Bifhop Wilfon's Form of Prayer for the Herring Fifhery, is ufed during the feafon.§ Herrings in their prime:.are remarkably fat; one that weighs 5 oz. 10 drs. will have 480 grains of fpawn, con taining 36,960 eggs. (Phil. Tranf. vol. 57O Thefpawn- ing time is the latter end of October. Herrings are capricious, deferring, either partially or wholly, particular bays and coafts. This ifland, as well as England and Wales, can witnefs to many remarkable instances of this kind. ' To the Dutch the credit is given of having been * : TheDutch buffes are the beft conftrufted for the herring fifhery' in the open fea. They are long round veffels, which run from 50 to 70 tons, and coft, including every requifite, near ioool. ; have 50 nets to a bufs, each about 50 fathoms long, and 7% deep. § See this Form in Bp. WiWoa's' Works, vol. iv. 8-w>. edit. , . the -88 A TOUR THROUGH the firft'to 'difcover the feafons ' of their pafTage; arid th*ir firft' regular -fifhing is dated- back to the twelfth century. ¦ The Dutch; cdnfider it in its true light; for in a piacart of 1624, the fifhery- is called,- ^The Golden Mines" of the United Provinces; and in another, in 1 65 i,i- the herring fifhery is termed the principal mine and chief fupport of Holland. May England ever cherifh and encourage every attempt to iriereafe and eftablifh it ! . '! "••" Thefrefh herrings of the: ifland are peculiarly, good, and larger than thofe of Yarmouth. When the feafon. arrives, •the fifh are looked for, and their appearance is indicated by the quantity of gulls that hover around them, no lefs eager than the Mankfman to feaft^On the delicious fare. At- this period, therefore, the gull is; confidered as facred. The firft maize that are Caught are entitled^ to a bounty.^ The fifhermen fometimes, exorcife, or burn -the witches - put of their boats with dry ling, or heath ; and to effect this they contrive the flame fo as to reach every part.of the boat. The firft boat that difcovers the herring, founds a horn as a -fig-nal to apprize the other boats. .^They fometimes take 70 maize, at 500 per maize, in one boat. Theoath of the deemfter, or judge, from the Angular al- lufion to the herring, I take this opportunity to introduce. * An aft of Tynwalq paffed'in 1794, to regulate the mode of ftooting the nets ; and by an aft of 1797, nets are forbidden to be tarred, fuch praftice having been found injurious. Mr. Sacheverel, who wrote in 1702, fays, that their herring fifhery was then loft, and had been for fome years. Herrings are a delicate fifh, and are killed with a very fmall degree of violence. When taken out of the water it gives a fmall fqueak and inftantly expires ; and thdugh immediately thrown back it never recovers. Hence the proverb, As dead as a herring .——See Dr. A'nderfbn on the Hebrides, Fifhery,.&c*8vo. 1795. "By THE ISLE OF. MAN. 89 "By this book, and by the holy contents thereof, and by 'the wonderful works- that God hath miraculoufly wrought in heaven above, and in the earth beneath^ in fix days and feven nights : - 1, John F. C— — , do fwear, that I will, without refpeCt of favour or friendfliip,! love or gain, confanguinity or affinity, envy or malice, execute the laws of this ifle jqftly, betwixt our Sovereign Lord the King,, and his fubjecUs within this ifle, and betwixt party and party, as indifferently as the herring's back-bone doth lie in the midft of the fifli." Gottenburg herring (fays Lieut;-Governor Shaw) made once an article of commerce in the ifland, of which it is now deprived, and the importation prohibited, except 1000 barrels , in cafe of failure for home confumption. Herrings caught, for the moft part of the feafon, on the coafts of the ifland, are, from their fuperior rich quality, unfit for the Weft-India markets, or for any length of voyage in a warm climate; therefore great advantages refulted from dealing in Swedifh herrings. ¦ Having in a fortrier letter mentioned the herring cuftom, •I now annex the annual amount of this duty, paid to the lords of the ifle, which was in 1760, 1211. 19s.; in 1761, 92I. 4s.; in 1762, 90I. 19s.; in 1763, 81I. is.;. in 1764, 6bl. 9s. odd. In 1765, none paid to his Grace's family. This the Duke of Athol confiders 1n its origin as a iria- nerial right. The boats employed (fays his Grace) at firft paid a proportion of fifh, afterwards a commutation of fo much money on each boat; and they had the privilege in confequenqe, of drawing up their' boats, and drying their nets on any part of the territorial property. It is afierted, that they were originally paid to; the garrifons, and delivered only there. On the other hand, it- is ftated that they were deli- -vered at Douglas, where there was nogarrifpn. The OO A TOUR THROUGH The price of. herrings varies from. 3s. to is. per hundred; .thefe are cured when cheap by the merchants. Girls from nine to thirteen years. old, carry the-herringss in bafkets, from thehoats to the houfes prepared on -purpufe, where women thoroughly rub them with felt;.. Left a few hours to purify, .they ;are then "barrelled .with a layer of felt between,, each layer; a, barrel is about 600, which cannot coft the cu-rer more than 12s. but in England it fells, for 25s., thefe are termed white herrings;, but there is a great rifk and expence of preparations, which a bad feafon incurs. Thofe defigned for red herrings are firft regularly, piled: up, with a layer of fa.lt between each row, and remain. to purify fome, days. They are then wafhed, and when, drained fufficiently, are fixed: by the mouth ; on fmall, rods,'(fomewhat like yarn wicks for making of candles) and hung up in large houfes for the purpofe, in length about 90 feet, and about 60 broad. Here the herring rods are hung as clofe as admiflible, and reach from the roof till within eight feet of the floor. Their regularity and luftre toake a very beautifoLappearance:. fires are kept: under them, continually fmpaking for four or fivie weeks, made of the dried roots of oak ;. when being fuffi ciently reddened, they are (hipped for the Mediterranean ports; from .whence the veffels return .with a. cargo to Liverpool, and to the ifland,. The fifhery commences in. July, and ends in the. autumnal equinox,. • Bounty on: Herrings, cured whitq, at Is. per barrel.^ ; BARRELS, £' f- d- 1787 1935 96 15 0 1788 . ...;8.6i 43 1 0 1789 ¦. 2616 i 130 16 0 1790 » 1878. .. 93 18 0 Barrels,. THE ISLE OF MAN. 9 1 Barrels, cured red, exported for the bounty of Is. '9d,t ' 'per barrel. 1787, to Italy, &c, 2636!- barrels, 1788,. to ditto and Dublin, 5462I. 1789, to ditto and ditto, 12,559!. 1790, 6866I-. To Great-Britain, 1787, 2074 barrels. 1788, ,4435t- I789> 30I5I- 1790,27471. Herrings, cured white, exported for the bounty of %s. 8d. p$r barrel. 1789, to Leghorn, 10. Cork, 315. Dublin, in 1 79c, 125 barrels. In converfation with an eminent Englifh merchant of Leghorn in June 1798, he informed me, that the only her rings ufed iri Italy were the fmo,aked, commonly called red herrings, of which they ufed to receive about three moderate cargoes in a year from the Ifle of Man. That they preferred the Yarmouth and Loweftoff ones, but the ifland herrings were much efteemed, and might, with yery little additional care in curing, be equal to the others. RefpeCting falmony he obferyed that they received in Italy, (chiefly' imported into Leghorn) from the Ifle of Man before the war, from 2000 to 3000 barrels per annum, from loclb. to 2oolb. weight each ; and that it was an increafing trade, until checked by the war. That three forts of falmon were confumed in Italy; that from Newfoundland, the Ifle of Map, and Scotland, of which the Scotch was the beft. Salmon exported from the ifland is fplit, and wet falted, and after the barrels are clofed, pickle enough to keep them moift. is conveyed into the bung-hole. The fmalleft fort is the moft marketable in Italy, as they are ambitious of ferving a whole fifh up; and thefe fell for 8s. per barrel extra. In 1 791 the price to the confumer was on an average 9d. per pound in Leghorn. A fociety Q2 A TOUR THROUGH A fociety under, thetitle of the. Britifh Society for extend ing the Fifheries, and improving the fea-coafts of Great- Britain, was inftituted.in 17.86. This was. owing to the patriotic exertion of Mri John Knox, above quoted, who tra- verfed arid explored the Highland's of Scotland no fefs than fixteen times, and expended fevera] thoufarid pounds iri for warding his beneficial defigns. ' I am happy to learn that government, awar§,pf thjs ad vantageous branch qf commerce, have ftill the improvement and extenfiqn of the fifheries under their immediate confi- ' deration. THE 1 TffllE, i >t,-j and though I am not at liberty to attach the name to whom I am obliged, yet fuch politenefs and condefcenSon will not foon be forgotten. »®nrrif'to ? hmd -.,,.! ' Of your approach,' liffiflisfcs want a teft, -.,i:u .7 s They fcale the rocks to, feek theeag!.e?s:neft;; !>-*¦ There if your fin$j or fcales, or bones: appear,,^ The fignal's certain^ all pronounce ¦youjien&i' v. In various ways, fuch .Providence's plan, .;.;,„ j.ij Birds become telegraphs: to fevour'd man.;. ; : The finny natiops, and the feather'd elves, • -:>< J ) . Confpire to ferve us, while ¦ they • ferve themlfekes. •i:'il < yii'.oi r'rea : •¦:.) ,;>.oxi'jA r,--- Spread on theimofs*crBwn?d rock,. pEepar'drand. dry 'd, ¦¦.?. The nets made ready for the next kind tide; The expeCtant Fleet, five hundred ftrong and more, With fails expanded quit Eubonia's§ ftiare.^j , 'r>r. Then chearful feud, the curling billows rendr^- Tho' firft a fervent, pray'r to Heav'n they fend, Uncover'd each — not more intent to guide The bark, than heav'n invoking on their fide. The hiftoric mufe inftructs that priefts of old, S ¦/<„*. Confulted. birds their myfteries to unfold; *. Solan gopfe. § M[ona and Eubonia ; different names for the ifland. . ' S» Cj6 A- TOE[R THROUGH So herev the crewS, that would byfifhing thrive^ Steer to the fpor where gulls and gannets dive; ¦ L With truth, concluding:tfoif:the;gronjnd to'fifh'dny: - And leave to pagans-^-pagan fuperftitiori. " . . , >'. This ftation gain'd-f-^when fablernighthas fpread Her gloomy curtain o'er the; Mankfman's head; The fignal made — each ito his bufinefs (getsj>- ;: Some gently ply the oar, fome drop the hets-: >. ¦<; This tafk perform'd^-rperhaps thbfeieiz'd withileep'. Are rouz'd by burfts of thunder o'er the deep ; " Now the white billows, tumble rribuhtains high, " And forked light'ning flioots along:the iky." Myriads of fifhthat lay in calm profound, ; .. Now fwift as light'ning from the -bottom' bound; ; See, fee! the mighty mafles upward urge,'" And form a dreadful animated furge ! - - The blaze, the crafli, the preternat'ral fwell* Threatens the flciff that floats A co'ekle-ihelL Amazement, horror, each man's feelings hold, Senfe is. fufpended, . and the blood grows cold. At home all anxious — to the pier quick fly, . To croud up lights, and invocate the fky-^- But, Mufe, forbear, and haften to exprefs Their fong of joy, not themes of deep diftrefs* The mafternow inclines his nets to try* Attention's fix'd— hope fparkles in~each eye; They haul — What luck ? the fparigled net is feeri,< Glowing with glitt'ring fifh. in guillotine I* . The herrings are caught by the gifts. THE ISLE OF MAN* 97 All hands are eager, kept in full employ, Succeflive heaps now multiply their joy; Wet tho' the work, no limb, nor heart is cold, The draught is greater than the bark can hpld ! This foon proclaim'd, lefs lucky friends draw near, And eafe them of their furplus and their fear. Now morn appears — the crews as each haye/ped, Find fchemes of intereft floating in their head : Some fteer their cargoes for Hibernia's fhore, To Britifh markets, fome convey their ftore; But eager homeward bend the major part, Joy in their looks, and pkafure in their heart. .; The coaft is lined with many an anxious eye, To greet the viCtors, and their load defcry : Nearer advancing looming, wond'rdus low,, .-,,;,. j Their depth announces what all wifh to know. On ftiore — -now fmoak infpires afeends the.fky, ,r ,; , And 'Bella* chearful waits to boil and fry; - - > • Home fails each fifher fpangled to the waift, And loads of fifh announce a rich repaft. . Vapours now, incenfe like, (if not as fweet) Invade, the fenfes as you pafs the ftreet. . . The, table fpread— -Mamma,, Tom, Judy,. Kate, With fingers greafy ply the fmoaking plate : . . • The father joins — but dropping in a fnore, Dreams he's fome inches higher than before. Nor is it partial pleafure revels here, The joy is general with a lucky year. * Arabella, a damfel celebrated for- her cooking of fifh. • - ;¦. . , -a h , Herring's £8 A TOUR THROUGH Herring's the toaft, through all the happy ifle,. And, when you meet a face, you meet a fmile. 'Tis true, my friend, frefh herring on the difh Wou'd leave no Roman epicure* a wifh : When dreft with all our garriifhes of art, Proud might an alderman play on his part: Nor yet would words Convey his juft applaufe, Silent you'd feek it in his bufy jaws ; But cloth remov'd — o'er port I hear him fing, - Of viands delicate — Herring's the King. " Now Phcebus ufhers in the cheerful day; " Now commerce buftles on the bufy quay: " The cooper's adze, the cart's difcordant tones,, " And herring barrels rolling on the ftones." Now bufy faCtors cure, and fmoke, and dry — To diftant. climes export the fcaly fry; While foreign marts the welcome bounty own, And fend back treafures of the Torrid Zone. May Commerce, then, ftill flourifh round our coaft, . And England's glory be our heart-felt toaft. July 1798. * The modern herring was unknown to the ancients; the Halec of the Romans, was only a kind of fauce made of any fait fifh . LETTER THE ISLE OF MAN. 99 55W«W^W9 LETTER VIIL To the same. Bear sir, IPropofe in this letter to notice fome particulars refpeCt- ing the Abbeys, Clergy,, and the Eftablifliment, &c. of the Free School at Caftletown. During the prevalence of Popifh fuperftitiori, and long before the grant to the Stanley family, feveral detachments of the monaftick orders found their way into the ifland, and ereCted an abbey, and fome fmaller religious houfes and cells there; each of which had a tract of land annexed to it, forming a manor or barony, diftinCt from the Lord, but held of him as paramount by homage and fealty. In like manner the demefne, and other cuftomary eftates of in heritance, appropriated to the bifhoprick, appear to have been always a feparate barony. In all thefe the Ecclefiaftical Proprietors had the fame manerial rights as the Lord. Formerly they were places of refuge from the Lord's au thority; an abufe that was prohibited in 141 7. On their diffolution, the King of England pofleffed them; they were afterwards held by private fubjeCts on grants, or leafes from the crown, who were ftiled barons, and they ftill remain diftinCt baronies. In the beginning of the ftatute book is briefly mentioned, how fucceflively the noble family of Derby have exercifed a H 2 JHS 100 A TOUR THROUGH jus regale in the ifland, and that certain barons held refpeC tive baronies of them, viz. the Lord Bifhop of Man ; the Abbot of Rufhen; the Priors of Douglas and Whitehorn in Galway; the Abbots of Furnefs, Bangor, and Sabal; and the Prior of St. Bede in Copeland ; all which were, in refpeCt to their holdings, to do faith and fealty unto the Lord of the faid ifland, at the general affembly of the whole ifland, called the Tynwald court, in their proper perfons, under the penalty of having their temporalities feized for non appearance and homage. But to proceed to a more modern era. The Clergy of the ifland are a refpeCtable body, they are natives, and, have a good claflical education. There are only two reCtories, worth about iool. per annum; the vi carages are under 50I. and the vicarage-houfes in general are but fmall, inconvenient buildings, in fome parifhes much out of repair, and in others there are none ; for inftance, in Malew and Bride. It is lingular that the former is fo. deftitute, as in this parifh is fituated Cafletown, the feat of government.- t They perform the fervice of the Church of England, in Manks wholly, or alternately in Manks and Englifh, as the fituation and the circumftances demand; and in fome churches Englifh is always read. In 1696 an aCt was made againft " non-refidence," which obliges the clergy to refide in their refpeCtive parifhes under certain penalties. In the year 1 739, the clergy were thrown into great trou ble and perplexity by the death of the Earl of Derby, who dying without iflue, the Lordfhip of Man (as a barony in fee) became the property of the Duke of Athol, who had married the heirefs of the late Earl of Derby. This had nearly, deprived the clergy of their fubfiftence; for the liv- THE ISLE OF MAN. 101 ings of the Ifle of Man confift of a third of the impropria tions, which had been originally purchafed of a former Earl of Derby, by a collection made in the epifcopate of Dr. Barrow,* in the reign of Charles II. An eftate of the Earl's in England was bound for payment. On the alienation of the ifland from the Derby family, the Duke of Athol claimed the impropriations as an infepa- rable appendage of his eftate and royalty, of which it could not be diverted by any right that had or could be ftiewn. The deeds were not to be found, and the clergy, in danger of lofing all their property, and unable to conteft, would have taken a trifle in confideration for their claim. Bifhop Wil fon, in a letter to his fon, fays, " What we can do with "regard to the impropriations, I cannot poflibly tell; we " would be content to take any reafonable confideration, " rather than lofe all."f Lord Derby offered ioool. a fum very inadequate. The ill effects this had, may be learned ¦ from another letter of the Bifhop's, wherein he obferves, " We are facuy put to it for proper perfons to ferve the ' " churches. The fear of lofing the impropriations, for ever, " difcouraging parents from educating their children for the " miniftry."J The Duke, however, allowed the clergy to take the im propriations, giving bonds of indemnification ; but this was no permanent fecurity ; the happinefs of feveral families was * Bifhop Barrow obtained a grant from Charles II. of one hun dred pounds a year, payable out of the excife for ever, for the better maintenance of the vicars and fchool-mafters of the ifland ; and he collected 6ool. for the fame purpofe among the nobility ; and, by his own private charity, he alfo purchafed two eftates "in land, worth zol. a year in Bifhop Wilfon's time, for the fupport of fuch, young perfons' as fhould be defigned for the miniftry. Wilfon's Hiftory of Man. f See the Bifhop's Life, % Ibid. 102 A TOUR THROUGH involved in the recovery of their rights. The Duke's claim was inconteftible — the deeds were loft : nor could Bifhop Barrow's will, or heirs, be found, The afliduity of Bifhop Wilfon and his fan was at length crowned with fuccefs; the deeds having been found in the Rolls chapel. This ended the difpute— the deeds were exem plified under the great feal of -England, and every precaution was taken for the future payment of the money; and a good underftanding was eftablifhed between the Earl of Derby and the clergy* In 1774 the clergy were made happy by the payment of the royal bounty, which had been withheld for fome years. The following ftatement will give you an idea of the ground of the law-fu.it that took place in confequence of thefe claims of the clergy. Bifhop Barrow and Archdeacon Fletcher, in 1666, pur chafed, of Charles Earl of Derby, the impropriations, rec tories, and tithes, for the fum of one fhoufand pounds, for the ufe of the minifters of the Ifle of Man, the erection of a free fchool, and the maintenance of a fchool-mafter. And the Earl granted, by way of collateral fecurity, his manor and lands of Bifphem in Lancafhire, and Methop farm, in truft for the performance of the indentures. - In 1735, a claim to the rectories and tithes was ftarted hy James Duke of Athol, as right heir of James Lord Stanley, under the limitations of 7 James I.; and in 173-6, he took pofleflion of the ifland, and of the rectories, &c. the fubject of the indenture in 1636. The then bifhop and archdeacon., after in vain endeavour ing to get pofleflion, or to obtain indemnity on the foot of the collateral fecurity, filed a bill in Chancery in 1 736, in behalf of the 'poor clergy, and mafters of the free fchopls, againft Edward Earl of Derby, the faid James Duke of Athol, and THE ISLE OF MAN. 10$ and Ifaac Clapton, efq;- the perfonal reprefentatives of the faid deed of fecurity, praying to. take pofleflion of the lands iri Lancafhire, and allot a fufficient part to recompenfe for paft loffes, and indemnify them for the future to be an nually paid. The feveral defendants put in their anfwers; the Earl filed his crofs bill againft the Duke, &c. ; the fcope of which was, that the Duke might be decreed to deliver up pofleflion of the ifle, &c. In 1751, the Chancellor decreed in favour of the Clergy; and the average value annually of 219L 17s. rod. was ordered , to. be paid out of the lands in Lancafhire, and full compenfation made during the years; they had been deprived. The tfuftees , of this, impropriate ,fynd are, the Governor, Receiver-General, Bifhop, and : Archdeacon, ex-bfficio : the former is appointed by the;Du.ke of Athpl. In the year 1730, Dr. Wilfori, fon of the Biftipp, pro pofed to eftablifti a fund for the fupport. of clergyman's wi dows and children in the Ifle of Man, which was the more neceflary, as, from the frriallnefs of the- livings, few were able to make a provifion for their families. To this the Bifhop readily agreed; and by the afliftance of Mrs. Crow; Mrs. Levintz, (the late Bifhop's widow) Lady Elizabeth Haftings, and others, a fum of money was raifed apd placed in the Englifh funds; the intereft of which, amounting to 12I. per annum, was appropriated to that purpofe. Some years after Dr. Wilfon, affifted by fome of his friends, very confider- ably.enlarged it, by purchafing of the late Duke of Athol, the thirds of the living of Kirk-Michael, which he m3.de over to truftees for the ufe of .that .charity forever. Among the benefactors the following ought to be noticed: Madam Levintz, 50I. Sir J. Phillips, 30I. Bifhop Crow's widow, 100I. Lady Betty Haftings,. (befides 20I. per ann. to the fchools for ever) 2$ guineas. Bifhop Wilfon, iopl. Sir 104 A TOUR Vi-^uuGii Sir Joha Chefhiie,.2oL. Mrs. Williams, 1 61. Lady Ha rold, iool. ; Mr. Toilet, -5I. _.;-.-- Speaking of benefactors to the Ifle of Man, may be men tioned, Mrsi.G, Butter, who, in the time of Bifhop Wijfon, fent large quantities of Bibles and pious books for general ufe. I fhall now advert to the ;law-fuit refpeCling the free-fchool .at Caftletown. .:.;... : .¦'..,:: Among the objects which were Job,? gffeCted by, the pur- chafe of the tithes, &c. of the .D^rby family, in 1666, were the eftablifhmeht of a free fchool, and provifion for the mafters. The tithes of Kirk C. Rufhen were part of trie tithes conveyed On the prefent fchool-mafter, in 1757, arriving from the commencement of -the regular year, he received 60I. per annum until 1779, when the truft reduced his falary to 30I. and alfo for the enfuing year, when he filed a bill in Chan cery to be paid the ufual falary; Alledging that the tithes of K. C, Rufhen had been fettled upon the mafter, and which were eftimated at 60I. per annum, and that was his condition, of agreement with the- truft on his acceptance. . The THE ISLE OF MAN. 10^ The then truft put in their anfwer, that Bifhop Barrow had, in the firft inftance, no power to endow the fchool with the perpetuity of the faid tithes, &c. ; and that the truft had a power to proportion them among the feveral objects of diftribution, as they might yearly think proper. The caufe was heard in the Chancery Court of the ifland, in 1782, when Governor Dawfon decreed in favour of the matter's baying 60I. a-year, in lieu of the tithes of K. C. Rufhen. , On this the truft appealed to the King and Council to reverfe this decree, which was allowed, upon their entering into a bond to profecute the appeal with effect, and pay the cpfts if the decree was affirmed, which was the cafe, and the prefent mafter has" the ftipulated falary of 60I. per ann. The Rev. Mr. Caftley, the prefent mafter, was educated in Jefus College, Cambridge, and took his degree of Bachelor of Arts in 1755, and M.A. in 1758, and was fellow of the college.* * The Rev. Mr. Rofs was academical profeflbrin 1722, but to whorn the prefent fucceeded, I know not. LETTER 106 A TOUR THROUGH LETTER IX. To the same. DEAR SIB., r Have no doubt but you will receive rnuch pleafure from -*• the following brief epitome of the Life of the late excel lent Bifhop Wilfon, whofe memory is held in great venera tion by the people of the ifland to this day. Bifhop Wilfon was, born at Burton in Chefhire, Dei 20, 1663, and entered at Trinity College, Dublin; from whence he was ordained in 1686. He was noticed by William Earl of Derby, who made him his domeftick chap lain, and preceptor to his fon James Lord Strange, in 1692. In 1697, the Earl offered him the bifhoprick of the Ifle of Man, which had been vacant ever fince the death of Dr. Levintz, in 1693; but he declined fo great a charge. At length the Archbifhop of York complained to King William, that a bifhop was wanting to fill the fee of Man-— that the nomination was with the Lord of the ifle, but that the ap probation was .with his Majefty. The King fent for the Earl, and infifted on an immediate nomination, and that if delayed, the King would fill the vacancy himfelf. In con fequence of this admonition, Lord Derby infifted on his chaplain accepting the preferment,, and accordingly Mr. Wilfon was, to ufe his own expreffion, " forced into the Biflioprick." He took pofleflion of his dignity in 1 698, and was enthroned in the cathedral, in Peel-Caftle, April 1 ith. In 1698 he married Mary, daughter of Thomas Patten, efq; of Warrington : by this excellent woman he had four chil dren, Mary, Thomas, and Alice, who- died-young; -and Thomas* THE ISLE OF MAN. I07 Thomas, born Auguft 1703, who was chaplain to 'George II. a prebendary of Weftminfter, and reCtor of St. Stephen's, Wallbrook. He died 15th of April, 1784. Bifhop Wilfon, with the afliftance of Dr. Thomas Bray, founded parochial libraries throughout his diocefe; and in 1703, he obtained the Act of Settlement, of fo much con fequence to the peace of the ifland; and alfo the Ecclefiafti cal Conftitutions were confirmed in full convocation, and ratified at a Tinwald court.* Lord Chancellor King was fo much pleafed with thefe conftitutions, that he faid, " If the " ancient difcipline of the church were loft, it might be found '* in all its purity in the Ifle of Man." In 1705 Mrs. Wilfon died. In 1 7 07, he had the cateehifm tranflated, -and printed in Manks and Englifh. In 17 1 1 he went to London to fettle fome bufinefs re lative to the ifle, and was taken great notice of by Queen Anne, before whom he preached :§ fhe offered him an Eng lifh biflioprick; which he waved, faying, that, with the bleffing of God, he could do fome good in the little fpot that he then refided on ; whereas, if he were removed into a larger fphere, he might be loft, and forget his duty to his flock and to his God. He could not be induced to fit in the Houfe of Lords, though there is a detached feat for him within the bar — faying, " That the church fhould have no- " thing to do with the fate ; Chrift's kingdom is not of this " world." The bifhpp has at prefent no vote; but if the iflarid, as in cafe of treafon, fhould become forfeited to the crown, the bifhop, as holding his barony from the King, would then have a vote as well as a feat, defuo jure. Bifliop Levintz fat there in his epifcopal robes. * Thefe Conftitutions are printed in the Bifliop's Life. $ On Holy Thurfday : the fermon is the 73d in the octavo edit. of Bp. Wilfon's Sermons, vol. iii. IOS A TOU-R THROUGH It is remarkable that this worthy prelate was feized by Governor Horn, and imprifoned* with his two vicars-gene ral, for two months, in Caftle-Rufhen, for cenfuring and refufing to take off the cenfure of certain perfons ; they were fined 90I. and on non-payment, thefe violent fteps were taken; but the. King and council reverfed all the proceed ings of the officers of the ifland; declaring them oppreffive, arbitrary, and unjtift. In 1739, m a letter to his fon, he fays, " I have been as " well as ever I can expeCt to be at this agej 76 ; I was " obliged the laft Sunday to preach at Peele, ride thither and " back again on a ftormy day; and yet, I thank God, I am " not the worfe for it." Peel is about eight miles from Bifhop's-Court. In 1740 there was a great fcarcity of corn in the Ifle of Man, and but for the very great exertions of the Bifhop and his fon, in getting a fupply, and charitably diftributing large quantities, thoufands would probably have perifhed. In 1 741 the Bifhop printed his " InftruCtion for the In dians," V . In 1 743- he wrote a letter of thanks to George II. on the promotion of his fon to a prebend of Weftminfter. In 1 744 was another fcarce year of corn-^the bifhop bought and fold to the poor at a cheap rate. When Dr. Walker and himfelf were prifoners in the caftle, they concerted a plan to tranflate the Teftament into Manks, but the bifhop lived to. fee only the printing of St. Matthew: it was completed by Bifhop Hildefley and the clergy, affifted by the Society for the promotion of Chriftian Knowledge. The bifhop rode on horfeback until 1 749. In 1751 he, wrote a letter of congratulation to the new governor on his arrival. In 1753 he confecrated a new chapel at Ramfay; his fon preaching the fermon. He died in 1755. In THE ISLE OF MAN. 1 00, In fumming up the character of this truly good man, every part of his life affords a difplay of the moft genuine charity and benevolence. He kept an open table, and his kitchen was crouded with the poor and needy, who were always kindly received. He never interfered in temporal or poli tical concerns, unlefs particularly called on by the inhabi tants to ferve them. Queen Caroline was very defirous of keeping him in England, but he refufed. One day as he was coming to pay his duty to the Queen, when fhe had feveral prelates with her — fhe turned round to her levee, and faid, " See here, my Lords, is a Bifhop who does not come " for a tranflation." ' No, indeed, and pleafe your Majefty,' faid our good Bifhop, * I will not leave my wife in my old * age becaufe fhe is poor.' He was buried in Kirk-Michael church-yard ; over him is a fquare marble tomb, with this modeft infcription, railed. in with iron: " Sleeping in Jefus, here lieth the body of " Thomas Wilfon, D.D. Lord Bifhop of this Ifle, who died " March 7, 1 755, aged 93, and in the 58th year of his con- " fecration." At the ends — " This monument was ereCted " by his fon Thomas Wilfon, D.D. native of this parifh, " who, in obedience to the exprefs commands of his father, '", declines giving him the character he fo juftly deferved, " Let this ifland fpeak the reft !" During the confinement of the Bifhop in the dungeon of the Caftle, he loft the ufe of his fingers from the feverities h« endured. " But oh ! the fad reverfe of fatCj " That neither fpares the good, nor great, " Not e'en can cherubs paint ! v Lo ! Envy brooding o'er the fc,ene, " JDafli'd with a 'cloud the bright ferene, " And bore to Rufhen's walls the* perfecuted faint. « There, UO A TOUR THROUGH " There, as immured, the good man lay, " Awhile to tyranny a prey, " Sat Patience with calm eye ! " And there too Faith who gives to flow, " Oh ! Innocehce, thy robe of fnow, " Op'd, through the vale of tears, a villa to the "(ky»'> Cadinal Fleury Wanted much -to fee him, and fent over* on purpofe to enquire after his health, his age, and the date of his confecration ; as they were the two oldeft bifhops, and he believed the pooreft in Europe; at the fame time inviting him to France. The Bifhop fent the Cardinal an anfwer, which gave him fo high an opinion of him, that he obtained an order that no French privateer fhould ravage the Ifle of Man. And that the French ftill refpeCt a Mankfman, fome recent inftances confirm. The Bifhop one day gave a poor man, in rags, money to buy a coat at the enfui'ng fair; the man expended the cafh in ftrong liquors, and continued in rags as before; when by accident the Bifhop feeing him, exprefied his furprize, and afked how it came he was ftill In fhatcondition-^why, my Lord, anfwered he, I have bought with the money a very warm lining ; but I am in want of an outfide yet. The following anfwer of the Bifhop, to a requeft from Lord Derby, will tend to fhew that his Lordfhip regulated his aCtions by principle, and does honour to his character* I copy it from his own writing, with which I was favoured by the Deemfter of the northern diftrict. An aCtion relating to Hanco-hill eftate (Mr. Lace, plain tiff, and the Truftees of the Academic School, defendants) having paffed the courfe of the court of comrhon law, Mr. Lace appealed from the judgment unto the Lord, on which the Lord fends certain queries to the Governor and Council to be refolved. The Governor, Bifhop, and Council, how ever, THE ISLE OF MAW. I 1 1 ever, were truft ees; and, the Bifhop, on being required by the Governor to aflift in council, [according to cuftom) upon thefe queries, he gave his anfwer in writing, as follows : — " Mr. Deputy, I am of opinion that we, of my Lord's council, cannot regularly take upon us to anfwer thefe que ries, for thefe reafons : — ift. Becaufe we are all truftees, and confequently parties in this caufe. 2d. Becaufe our moft ancient and received laws do exprefsly provide, that when a doubt or queftion fhall arife touching the fenfe of any fta- tute or cuftom, the two Deemfters and 24 Keys fhall ex pound the famb, which, as I am informed, has been already done,- and in a judicial' way with refpect to the two fta- tutes mentioned, in the firft of thefe queries. 3^. For that a precedent of this kind may be of evil confequence, becaufe a majority of the council being generally ftrangers, and for fome time at leaft unacquainted with the laws and cuftoms of this ifle; if the Lord fhould ground a judgment upon the anfwer of fuch a majority, he might unavoidably be led into an error in point of law or juftice. Laftly; Becaufe that in this as well as In moft governments, fuch as are appointed to expound the laws, or to adminifter juftice, are under an oath to do this faithfully. Now I do not underftand that we are under any fuch oath or charge; therefore it is nei ther proper nor fate for us to undertake it. " I pray that thefe reafons may be accepted, at leaft for my particular declining this affair; they are fuch as oblige me in point of confcience, and I hope will juftify me to our ho nourable Lord; who, I do prefume, would not have put this caufe upon this iflue, had his honour been thoroughly acquainted with the conftitution and laws of this govern ment." (Signed) T. S. M." ."?< Aug. 25,1709." Bifhop 112 A TOUR THROUGH Bifhop Wilfon was fucceeded by Dr. Mark Hildefley^ whofe various good qualities are fpoken of with efteem ; the following are his fentiments on his fucceeding to the See of Man: " Although I know it is fometimes faid, that a perfon fucceeds with difadvantage to an office which has been filled by a predeceffor of remarkably eminent qualities, I muft take leave to think the reverfe, as nearer the truth; at leaft with refpeCt to the inftance I am about to refer to, viz. My coming after the great and good Dr. Wilfon to this fee of Man; forafmuch as I find many excellent things dorie and eftablifhed to my hands, in regard to the government of the church, befides the example, which by the traces he has left, his Lordftiip ftill lives to fhew, and which I endeavour, as far as I am able^ to follow, though I am fenfible it is, and muft be, non paffibus aquis." When Bifhop Hildefley was at 'Scarborough in 1764, the following lines were ftuck up in the Spa room, and were taken down by him; and after his death, found (in 1773) by his fifter among his Scarborough bills, with this memo randum: that he -preferved it only on furmife, that it was done by way of banter. If to paint Folly, till her friends defpife, And Virtue, till her foes would fain be wife; If augel-fweetnefs — if a godlike mind That melts with Jefus over all mankind; If this can form a bifhop— and it can, Tho' Lawn was wanting — Hildejley'&.the man. Under which was written by the Bifhop — From vain-glory iri human applaufe, Deus me liber et et confervet,* * Some notices of him may be feen in the Life of Bishop Wilfon, by the Rev. Mr. Cruttwell. , v' .'..X Biihop THE ISLE OF MAN. Jig It was ufual to approach the bifhops on the knee, but this I was told, was abolifhed by the prefent dioc.e.fan,:for thefame reafon that Frederick the Great of 'Pruflia' afligried, when* in 1783, he publifhed a refcript,'fignifying that kneeling in future fhould not be.pra'Ctifed in honour of his perfon, de claring that this act of. humiliation was not due but to the Divinity. Bifhop Wilfon's Life was tranflated into French, ,by the. Rev. Mr. Bourdillon,butwas not publifhedl His Works were' firft publifhed in 2 -vols.-4.tO1, Then in -a vols, folio, in numbera.- Then in 8 vols. 8vo. The Sermons have, had fix editions., His complete Works four editions ; out of every edition of the Works' complete, twenty pounds are paid by direction of the late Rev. Dr. Wilfon, to the fand for fupporting the widows of the clergy. Thefe Works may be had in the following-forms : - In eight volumes, 8vo. his Works complete, with his Life, com piled from his own MSS. and other authentic papers, by the Rev. C. Cruttwell. Price 2I. 8s. in boards. The four volumes of Sermons, each containing- 2 5 Difcourfes, may be had, price il. 4s. in boards. . The Biftipp's Life and.Trafts may alfo be had in four"volumes. Vol. 1. The Bifhop's Life, and Hiftory of the Ifle of Man. Vol. 2. Iriftruction-for(the better Underftandijag of the Lord's SUpper; and Sacra Rriyata; Vol. 3. The Knowledge arid Practice of- Chriftianity made eafy to the meaneft Capacities ; Obfervations for reading, the Hiftorical Books of the Old Teft'ament, &c. &c. Vol. 4. Parochialia, or Inftructions for the Clergy; Maxims of Piety and Chriftianity, &c. In two volumes nmo. thirty-three Sermons of Bifhop Wilfon, felefted by the Society -for promoting Chriftian Knowledge. Alfo, in 3 vols, royal 4to. a moft elegant edition of The Holy Bible, with the notes of Bifhop Wilfon ; and the variations of all . the Englifh tranflations, collected by the Rev. C. CruttwelL Iri feparate Traels, 1. Sacra Privata ;— The., Private Meditations and Prayers of Bifhop Wilfon, accommodated to general ufe. 2.' Parochialia; or, Inftructions for the Clergy in the Difcharge of their duty. , 3. Maxims of Piety and of Chriftianity, alphabetically arranged. Alfo reprinted forthe Ufeof'Sunday Schools. '+. The Principles and Duties of Chriftianity; beiriga further In struction for fuch as hive learned the Church Cateehifm, &c. . , 1 To *!£ A TOUR THROUGH To c<5hclude;*-*As the particulars qf Bifhop Wilfon's life and character niay be feen at length in the Rev. C. Gruttwell's^edition of his "tor&s, to whofe politenefs I am Wiuch indebted, Ifhaill refer you to &, where yob will find the concurring teftimony of many learned and^aona minds Exhibiting, in the -moft energetic language, their exalted opi nion of this venerable and worthy man. His fon, the Rev. Dr. Wilfon, who was the great patron of Mrs. Macaulay the hiftorian, died at Bath; and was eqpveyed to London in great pomp^ and interred in St. Stephen's church, Walbrook, of which he was therectorj as well as prebendary of Weftmlnfter,* , As the /connection that fubfifted betweenDr. Wilfonand Mrs. Macaulay, was a topic of much converfation at that time;' a connection that, however, did them both much ho nour; I am happytohave it in my power to Hluftrate the grounds of that attachment) by, the following letters from feoth, to my much- valued and lamented friends, Mr. and M*s. Nor$icot*, of Htmiton inDwojitae; whofe affec tionate attentions I experienced for many years, and whofe names I can never think of but with the moft poignant grief. • Infcriptions m.9t. Stepim's Church, Walbrook. Sacred* to the memory of Mrs- Mary Wilfon, the beloved and much -lamented wife of Thomas Wiffon, D.D. ftte died Nov. 4., 1772, aged 7,9 years, in the 40th year of their happy maariage* ¦ - To the memory of Thomas Wilfon, D.D. citizen of 'London, and ¦reiStoj' iof this parifh upwards of 4-6 years . He-died April 1 jtli , 1784, aged 80 years ; only fon of Thomas Wilfon, late Lord Bifhop of Sodor and Man-. From ®m ^si-3 6> m Aki « ? 5 ' •' ' '*'< DEAR ' si'h/" ; ' '.' ' V ' : ;."_ ? Ctifiori; July lG, 1/75V1 " I received the favour of yours, and foon after wrote to Mr. Dilly, that Mrs. Macaulay would be very glac^.. if you would;take us in your way jfome,". but 1 fipid ypu had left London., r I know jt wijl'giye^irj. N. and you, great plea-* fure to tiave ^t under bpt^-ou^harid^ that from a high . effe em and regard I have for that dear, and amiafele lady, I have made her perfectly ea^ .riot only while I live, but after mj de^h^by adopting her . a,s «y daughter, and confiftent with former en^gemej^ts.^ to. my relations, (he wfifl have fuch a (hare of ,my fortune, as, .with her oWm will fet her above the ¦i 1 ' .."it ,/ir,!j„.'j ......riJI-'.'oij,'.- 13f; » !.- "in ;.") wr.r, .-., ^orldj.taridJ can affile you that no words "cap exprefs the joy I feel in having it in my power to remove all anxieties from a breaft which ought nejjer^to have be^ruftTed*f This ought fo have been dpneTorig ago py perfons of opulent fortune, who Jn "words exprefled their hjgh veneration for her eXai|eJ character, as an Hiftorian.; but Proy$ence re- ferved that hqnqur for me. Befidps, I haye the happinefs of knowing that (he has all thofe great qualities of mind, neceflary to compleat the character of a faithful, difintereftedj and affectionate friend* She has heenrpleafed for fome timepaft to favour me with her .company at this place, arid I am happy to tell you that fhe has received great benefit by exercife on horfeback, and the fine air and .waters of this place,; and my charming grandaughter improves every day in health, and every other accomplifhment of mind and body. Ti W. On the feme paper footn Mrs- M. -** My dear Friends1; " Dr. W. has been fo full on the fubje& pf .my J^efent fituation, that he has left me little to tell you, i 2 but i 1 6 A' tou r th ro&gH but that myhappiriefs is at prefent complete in the benevo lent, protection of the moft affectionate, the moft indulgent, and the moft generous of friends, &c." Truftirig thatl have hftherfo attached myfelf to my fub ject with all poflible precifion, 'and have waved extraneous re- marks, or. the adoption of a lurnmous and pblifhed' diction, to the exclufion of a plain recital of facts ; I vent. uretbToIic'if indulgence in obeying the ihnpulfe I here fefl, of introducing fome fentiments expreflive of the high regard thole diffiri- guiflied characters above-mentioned held for my "friends Mr. and Mrs. Northcote, whom Mrs; Ml vifited abHo'riito'ri) and to whom fhe preferited her whole-length portfaity fitting in her library, by Falconet; which is" fince in poffeffion of jofeph Hafkins, efq. ',-,''/" In a letter to.therri,"3ated Bath, "fhjS, fhe obferves', " A variety of grievous' feelings, from the' ^frange. inclemency ''of the weather, have thitherto preyented my acknowledging dear Mr. and Mrs. Nprfhcote'scorigratulatory letterljTdp' riot know whether Dr. Wilfon, "who has not yet finiflied his te dious journey, has had time fo write" to "you, but he was charmed with yourTeritim'erits on the occafiori, and Wrote to me on the fubject as follows : ' ' ', '* I can' hardly exprefs the pleafure good Mr. N's letter gave me.. I beg, at yburlelfure, you will arifwer itj arid tell them both how much I am obliged to them, for the regard they fhew to you ; they fpeak from the heart : fuch friends are worth having.' " Thefe, my dear friend, were the fentiments of good Dr. Wilfon, on your expreflions in my favour. Hearts who are capable of exulting at the good fortune of others, are formed of the bed materials; — Adieu." LETTER THE ISLE OF MAJI.. . l:l.J: LETTER X., To the. same. -DEAR SIR, A Gentleman afked Mr. Burke what motto Would* be- -*¦¦*¦ proper to prefix to a publication on the Ifle of Man f to -whom Mr. Burke jocbfely replied frorri Pope, " The proper .Study of Mankind, is, Man.*", I fhall therefore, without farther introduCuoni refume my- fubjeCt, : :¦•-: < ¦-'. An old tradition traces' this ifland up to one. Mananah? Mac-Lir, a necromancer; who is charged*! with, enveloping it in mifts, fo that no (hanger could find it, until Saint Patrick broke his charms. This perfon, however, is fuppofed to have been the fon of an Irifh Prince, Alladius, and was a great merchant, who,: by enjoying an exclufive trade-with this-place and Ireland,' might in that fenfe be faid' to have covered, it, with mifts from the reft of the world. . . • ¦•>¦¦ "¦ •> ':'•'- '--';-" The Norwegians, witbthe Weftern Iflandsi conquered this alfo; and the kings fent to govern generally • ehofe the Ifle of Man for their refidence. In 1266 there wasa-foleinn agreement between Magnus IVfh of Norway, and Alexander Hid of Scotland; by which this ifland, among the reft, was furrendered to the Scots for 4000 marks, to be paid in four years, 1000 marks yearly. Purfuarrt tp which. Alexander drpye out the King of Man, 1270, and united it to Scotland. Mary, Mary, Queen of Man, the Jaft of the Norwegian race, of Orries, was driven put by the Scots ia'Ttqtj fhe put her- felf under the protection pf Edward I. pf England, who had at that time conquered the greateft part of Scotland for Robert Bruce, who-*as thea-uVthe Englifh camp, and came with the King into England. Three years'after this period, John Waldebafty, the hufbahd of Mary, preferred his claim to the ifland in the parliament at Weftminfter. But all the fatisfaction he could obtain, was to be referred to- Robert Bruse, who.. lived -in England^ jarad .had the ifland: in his pofleflion, „ ,i gf;+ ,- , In 1312, and/in. 1426, fundry agreements were madg re-: fpectjng it. In 14.05, Henry IV. had given it to John Lord Stanley; but Scotland claiming, under the agreements men- tkmed^Jifcir titteio theiflandi'cbliged the lprds df Man tq keep a conftant (landing army and garrifons, until the reign of JameVl. io c? qr; It,:. ¦ ¦"-' Lord Coke obferves, that though this ifland be no parcel of the j-eahn of England, yet it is part of the dominions of its King, and therefore allegiance is- referyed in public oaths. The Lords had the power of giving the final affent to afl new laws; tbcpwwer of pardoning offenders, ¦ of changing the-ftnfehce tsf^dgath into •banifltoent, of appointing and difp&cihg.the^rvil,. ecelefjaftical^ and military officers, with a right to all forfeitures for treafon, felony, #c-. :. FrQro.the.:ti^ThV8coi!s firft 'conquered the ifland, to tft"e) adcefftaft'of^the Stattley family, was 150 years, during whicfclperkidr jrwiB fete tinies conquered by the Scots and Etiglifci! ^By thefe revolutions the ancient regal government was fotaearlies^lBiA afide, arid a military and arbitrary go- vewimttrit-'iipbflimt^'iais frequently is the cafe with con* qtfcredtaditiflfosw'v 03 j(!f^' ¦• ¦;: ¦ ijO'j;; .- .- \>*Ua-.. b-v ^ -- But THE ISLE OF MAN. 1 1 5 But the laft great change that took place Was its union by iale to the Britifh crown in 1765, and which, like the union of Scotland in 1 706, gave a temporary alarm to the peoplej but its effects may be feen from the following fentiments of a refpectable native : ... *' Since the Ifle of Man ishecome an appendage of Great- Britain, and its regalities vefted in the Imperial Crown of thefe realms, it may poflibly afford fome fatisfadtion to the publick, to be informed what effect this great and intereff- ing revolution may have had on the minds, the manners, and difpofition of the people. *' The local trade fo long carried on here, to the detriment of the crown, being now totally fuppreffed by the care and attention of his Majefiy's civil government in the ifle, aided by the vigilance and activity of the revenue officers and cut ters, they have turned their hands with uncommon fpirit arid diligence to cultivate the more innocent and laudable, though lefs lucrative, arts of agriculture and the linen manufactory. " They have loft, it is true, a certain fpecies of commerce of no advantage to the place in general, as but few iri com- parifon were enriched thereby, while it was feMetly under mining them, as it introduced a fpirit of idlenefe and diffipa- tion, and from theeafy acquifition of fpirituous liquors, and other foreign luxuries, was tending faft to debauch the riiinds, corrupt the rijorals, and enervate the conftitutions pf the common people; the g^insi fo lightly acquired being for the moft part as lightly liquidated. " Inftead of this, a more pleafing and more agreeable prbf- peCt has opened. Sublatd caysd, tollitur effefius. Induftry and fobriety have taken placej and diffufe their influence, which we have reafon to hope will daily increafe." This " Navel of the fea" poflefles many privileges. The unfortunate may find it an afylum; the tsconorpift a place exempted 120 A TOUR THROUGH exempted soFailvtaxes; the epicure may enjoy fifh, port wine, barns, and 'poultry, cheap; and the philofopher a placeof reft ftqm. buftle- and faction.': The native good nefs of. the Manks. has.been too often impofed on by (hangers, and juftly engendered a prudent referve ; and fome flight intro duction is?. rather expeCted befors a cornfortable connection with them lean >take place. ¦¦¦?••- '. ' ^ - - .- -. ..i;As emigrations frequently take place from the oppofite fhores, the.mode:. of accefs.may be ufeful: to vifitors: you may embark frorni Liverpool or Whitehaven; at the former port veffels are frequently to be found. - The Duke of Athol is the beftof thefe, the others . have but plain accommoda tions; but all of them are fafe, and fail well. The price is g$. 6d. and 55*. You take your own provifion.* - From Liverpool to the Ifle is twenty-five leagues, on an average performed in two tides, ar.twenty-four hours. From Whitehaven (from whence a packet fails With letters every * At Liverpool are generally fome of the following vefTels trading to and from the ifland. - - . To Douglas, the Duke of Athol, profeffedly.for.paflengers,, a handfome veffel, floqp rigged, about 50 feet, keel, 11 feet hold, 17 fietbeam, makes up 18 beds, Capt. Brew. "The Lapwing, Cubbon, has feven.peds, befides a large ftate-room ; this once belonged toT. Whalley, «fq; M.:P. Then fellow traders, the Nelly and Betty, %uayfe; Surry, Clegg; Maria, Nprrii ; John and Judy,- Quay ; Eli- '2abeth, PF. Quayle ; John and Edward, Qnine; Prince of Wales, Lewen; Marquis of Tullibardin; fargAer; Four SifterSj Huntley; Margaritta, C. Quiney ; Brothers, Ckrijlian.; Amy, Currin ; Pete- rin, Moqrez Whale, Groom ; Dart, Slater ; Fancy, Hampton; Packet, Cqrren ; Margaretta, Bacon; Anne, Corlett ; Ranter, Riley. . ''To Kam'say, Peggy, lnce; Anne and Mary, Crowe; Succefs, 'Nellie ; Belle Arine; ' Von/ly; Marquis of Buckingham, Kermod ; Martin, If. Kerpiad; Eliza, Ince. P. Radcliffe, at the Legs of Mali Liverpool, and the Douglas packqt-hqufe, has always accurate information of thefe veffels. The packet from Whitehaven has 15 Tseds, two in- the ftate-rooni ; name, Earl of Lonfdale, Greenlaw. ¦ Monday THELSLE OF MAN. 121 Monday night if poflible) is fifteen leagues, this ufually runs over in twelve hours. This packet flays about three days in theifland, when it returns with-the_tna.il tq Whitehaven; it has good accomodations for paflengers. To Dublin from the Ifle is fifteen leagues, done on an average in, (ixteen or eighteen hours. From the Ifle to Kircudbright in Scot land, is generally run in about eight hours, from Ramfay, On landing you pay a fee to the, fearcher of is. 6d. who, then, does not open ypur trunks, provided they are no way fufpicious. From London to the Ifle of Man, the voyage varies from eight to fourteen days; The mafter of a veffel carry- fog a debtor off theifland without the governor's pafs, is fubject to a penalty of iol. befides his debts; and the veffel may be, feized until fatisfaction be given. No perfon can kave the ifland without a pafs, which cofts only ad. Manks. The form of the Pass.* Insula "1 PERMIT the bearer hereof Mr. John Felt- MotCiE. / ham, to pafs for England upon his lawful oc- cafioris, without let, flop, or hindrance, he be having himfelf as behoves all liege people, and departing this ifle within one month from the date hereof. Given at Caftle-Rujhen, this 6th day of March, 1798. Alex. Shaw. " By an order, dated Caftle-Rufhen, Jan. 1798, no panes are to be valid, unlefs actually figned by the Governor or Lieut.-Governor, nor are to have more than one name, unlefs a woman with a child in her arms. Panes are granted by Mr. Cotteen, of Caftletown ; Mr. Corlett, of Douglas ; Mr. Clucas, of Peele ; and Mr. Hendry, «f Ramfay. I fhall 122 A TOUR THROUGH I (hall now give fome account of the Coinage pecsiKa? to the ifland, and of its relative value to Englifh and Irifh. At the Tynwald Court, of 1679, it was enacted that no copper or brafs money, called Butcher's halfpennies, arid copper farthings, and Patrick halfpenrties, or any other of that nature, (ball pa'fs in the ifland, under a penalty of three pounds, and farther punifhment at the governdr's difcreriori; but this act does riot hinder the paflage'af the King's far things, and the halfpennies fet forth by authority, or of the brafs money called John Murray's pence. On fome falfe money being coined termed Ducketoons, an aft of TynWaldpafled in 1646, adjudging it to be high treafort. In 1710 Lord Derby fent over, at "the requeft of the rieople, a fupply of copper pence and halfpence. Iri 1733, three hundred pounds in pence, 'and two hun- di'ed- in halfpericej' were put in circulation; and in 1757, two hundred and fifty pounds in pence, and one hundred and fifty pounds in halfpence. To prevent counterfeits all perfons are ordered once a year to bring to the refpeCtive captains of their.-parifhes, fuch copper money to be examined and counted, and the account thereof -,. is tp be returned by them to the governor or freeeiver* ' .-; •{ -. In 1733 the impreffioift was the ai;msr©f ,M4rt, three legs with J. D. between the bend, and; the. rnotto ^uocunque jeceris ftabit; on the reverie, fhe eagle and child on a cha- peau, motto San changer; beneath the chapeau, the date. In 1758 the Ducal coronet with a cypher A. D. with the date under: the reverfe as before, without the initials J. D. In 1786 the King's head with the date under, motto round it, Ge'orgius III. Dei gratia: the reverfe as before. Thefe are not coined in the ifland.*i [See plate ii.J * Mr. Twifle, fpeaking of the country about Drogheda, fays, f The brafs coins of the Ifle of Man are current all along this coaft. * It THE ISLE O* MAN. 1 23 Some enquiries have fately been directed to be made re lative to the cbittage, but' it has gone ho farther. By an ad of Tynwald, in. 1 691, legal1 intereft is fixed at 6 per cent. Mariks. iool. Englifh, is it,61. 13s. 4d. Manks. - ibol. Manks, is 85I. 14s. 3d. Englifh. iool. Irifh, is 107I. 13s. iod. Manks. tool. Manks, is 92I. 17$. id. Irifh. ll. Englifh, is il. 3s. 4A Manks. il. Mariks, is 17s. r^d. Englifh. rl. Irifh, is il. iy. 6d. Manks. il. Manks, is 18s. yd. Irifh, is. Englifh, is i4d;. Mariks. is. Mariks, is io£d. Englifh. IS. IWih, is 13d. Mariks. is. Manks, is n£d. Irifh. I> fhall conclude with fome remarks on the horizontal water-wheels ufed in the ifland. They are now getting into difufe, probably from the late ereChbn of large mills on the great ftreains. I heard Only of two on this plan, which were faid to be, one near Snugboroughy the ofherin Baldori, near Crorik Rule. From Bifhop Wilfon we learn, " that in his time many of the rivers, or rather rivulets, not having water fufncient to drive a mill the greateft part of the year, riecefiity has put them upon the invention of a cheap fort of a mill, which, as it cofts very little, is no great loft, though it ftandrfix months in the year. The water-wheel, about fix feet in It is faid, that the metal for this laft coinage was delivered at the mint for lefs than three hundred pounds, and iffued from thence at the enormous value of fix hundred pounds -fteiiing !— This I fpeak on the authority of a publick print. diameter, 1 24 A TOUR, THROUGH diameter, Ji^s, horizontal, confifting: ofa, great many hollow ladles, againft.. which the water, brought down ina trough^ ftrikes forcibly, and gives motion to the upper ftqne, which, by a beam and iron, is joined to the center of the water- wheel. Not but they have other mills, both for 50m and fulling of cloth, where they have water in fummer, more plentiful." ... ]? - - , ... Mr. D. M. Keele, of Salifbury,,conftruCted a model of a wheel on this plan, and fent. li t0: Mr. ^-: More, fecretary to the Society of Arts, laft year. ^ Mr. More was of opinion that the power of the ftrearo .yyill, be exertgd ,ki a very inefficacious manner; as the denfity of the ftill water, in the pool will in a great degree obftruCb the motion of the wheel, and render it far lefs effectual,, than if that part which if not immerfed had only the air to a2t againft, which would be the cafe, if the wheel were placed vertically inftead of hori zontally. But Mr.-.Keele has obviated the difficulty 'alluded to, by making the. valves; .moveable, on an axis placed outwards, which enables them to receive the full effect of the current; but in pafling-throughthe fiill water, to open in fuch a way as not to impede its progrefs, but rather facilitate itfelf. In a letter I received from Mn Southey,* April 14, 1 798, he fays,, " Horizontal vyater-\A;heels are common in Spain; 1 have feen. many of. them; they attracted my notice by their Angularity and fimplicity," -. In the, Rev. Mr. Townfend's " Journey through Spain," (three vols. 8vo. Dilly, 1791) he informs us, that he ob-* ferved that " all mills had horizontal water-wheels. Thefe grind the corn very (lowly, | beingfed" by Tingle grains; but *_ Author of Joan of Arc, and other Poems; Letters written i'n Spain and Portugal, &c. . j then THE ISLE OF MAN; 12$ then to compenfate for this defect, they place many near together, and the fame little ftream having communicated motion to one wheel, paffes in fu'cceflion to the reft. Thefe are well fuited to a country abounding with (tone for build ing, where water runs with rapidity down a fteep defcent, and where difpatch is not required.'' ¦ r r Sir George Staunton noticed them in China.* I have faid thus much concerning, them, as I conceive that wheels on this plan might be adopted in this country to advantage, in a variety of fitugtipns,; ,-; ,,.. , ,„m->t, -.'-: . * Account of ChinaJ'i vol.' TvoJ'edit. Stockdale, p. 88, 1797. For a wheel of this plan,- worked -with fleam, with mdveable valves, fee Repertory of Arts, vol. iii. p. 403 ; and Robert Beatfon, efq; has juft publifhed a treatife on the advantages of horizontal wind and water mills, with a plan of one of the latter, which moves the fame way, let the current run up or, down. SeeBeatfon's Effay.oa Milis,'8vo. X7;s|8, Taylor, Holborn. Mr. B. offers farther infor mation, on application (poft paid) to him, at No. 1 5,1 Great Wind- mill-ftreet, London; or at Burnt- Ifland, Fifeihire. ,.j LETTER 13& , A.T9JP*. T«ftW?ft- LETTER IX. To the same. '" " Avaunt theh, cities, courts, where frieh'd's lietray, ' " WJtere malice wflundt,^nd flaaer-y dcops.the knee; " To him how.hatefuLvho can fteal,3.wary,. . , « Tp freedft^^o,yel;fimplicjfy/, sand^ee," - - . . : ... . :,-:- -f ; ¦ Vi P-iMBAR. ' " DEAR SMC; . ,..'._... 1 , YN emigrating from England , many advantages riauft bs •^ .given iup. Money,.here, lofes antiph of its omnipoten- cy ; the pleafures of-a luxurious table cannot be had with out diifieirfty-j «mrkets^re thin, and hut ill provided, and there are not any butchers' (hops. The pigs are larger in proportion than their other cattle, and extremely good and plenty. Fat meat is fcarce, and the veal in general indif ferent; the mutton is fweet and delicate. But a very pecu liar breed of fheep isfound here,, the wool of which is of a red fandy colour, or the faun-coloured Turkey wool ufed by hatters in this country. It wpuld he-difficult to account for this peculiarity; they are called Laughton fheep, and are now but few; the natives ufe the wool undyedfor (lockings, &c. and formerly one of the Earls of Derby had a whole fuit of it. Fleeces, as "well as I could obferve, yielded from 2lb. to 4lb. And the price of lambs varied from 2s. 6d. to 6s. KKWometimes were^wcrfh ios, ""- Reflecting THE ISLE OF MAN. 1 27 Rdpecting the price of provifioras, mentioned page 55, 1 would beg to remark, that in the towns moft. frequented* it is higher confiderably than in remoter fpdts; but in all parts there is an ewident rife of late. :. i .¦•;-"'. Poultry of all kinds are numerous and cheap; fifh and eggs are plenty and.reafonable. The better kind of fruits are not to be had ; Major Taubmaij's was the only walled garden I obferved, and that would grace any place. Apples are npt grown in any quantity. They have no pheafants or nightingales; groufe,' golden plovers,* corn creaks, and night larks, abound; hares are comparatively fcarce, for the want of cover; cranes, or herons, frequent the rocks.- An Irifh crow of a grey or lead colour is found, though the true Englifh crow is fcarce. Mr. Tbwnley mentions a- pied ^crdw, 'which preys on fmaM crabs and marine delicacies. The calf has plenty of the ufual rock birds; theiazor-bffl [alca lorda) and the puffin \alca artica.) The noifes ofiea-birds often indicate a change of weathen The cuckoo and its attendant announce the genial feafons of fpring and fummer ; and moft of the fmall birds are found here. Furze and heath are ufed as fuel, but the peat bogs are valuable ; thefe run deep both in the low lands and the -fum- mit Pf the higheft mountains. The cottagers have the pri vilege of digging it on the common, for the payment of a halfpenny per year. It is fold for fourperice a fquare yard, * Cbaradri-ws Pluvjalis,, Xe Pluvier dore, Buff. See a description of this and the grey plover in the Hiftory of Britifh Birds, with cuts by Bewick, vol. i. p. 329, Newcaftle, 1797. They have no moles in theifland, nor any noxious animal or or te.ptiis. jFrogs and magpies ia ve been introduced of late years. Mr. ^Edward Chriftian (hot a white fparrow in June, 1797J ne3' Balicalignan, ana 128 A TOUR THROUGH and the beft fort at fixpence, to; be cut and carried away by the purchafer. Where the fhelter admitted the growth of a hedge, I ob- ferved it luxuriant, and covered with lioneyfuckles, "¦ To fcent with tweeter breath the fumrrier gales— " With carele'fs grate and native eafe (he charms,' " ' '" And bears the horn of plenty in her arms." ' ' Dakwikv I noticed the fox-glove [digitalis purpurea) adorning the ¦ fides of the roads. Alfo the eriophorum alpinum, a fpecies of cotton grafs.,, I had often conceived fome ufe might be made of this plant, and .find by Mr. Pennant, that in, the Ifle of Sky, it fupports the cattle in the earlier part,of fpVing, .befere:fhe other graffes are fufficiently grown ; and that the poor ftuff their pillows with the. dpwn;,,and make wicks of .candles with it; but, it becomes brittle when quite dry., . The fcilla verna, or vernal fquill, is a, maritime plant found in the rocks : fojc plates of thefe two laft, I refer you to that ele gant work, Sowerby's Englifh. Botany. ; Haying mentioned the plant, termed by the natives ouw, in my fourth letter, I have now no farther remarks to , make on this fubject. The want of trees- and hedges, gives a barren afpeCfc to the ifland; but it is not unpleafing from the undulation of its furface, and the fublimity of its mountains, pf varied fhape, diftances, and termination; whofe fides afford a frequent fpecimen of that adventitious beauty occafioried by floating clouds intercepting the fun-beams, and giving to the fields glowing and! varied tints. But it could hot have always been without trees, for by a ftatute of 1570, a forefter is allowed to range the foreft for unfhorn fheep, &c* * The Druids found this ifland well planted with firs ; quantities have been dug up fome depth under the furface of the earth ; and fome THE ISLE OF MAN. '1 29 Thus; though its rocks are not, like thofe in Devonfhire, *' fringed with ornamental plants and fhrubs;" nor its gar- K dens" furrounded with myrtle hedges covered with moft delicious bloom ¦;" yet its rugged rocks^ and bold mountains, whofe outlines are abruptly varied,- adorned with the heathy gorfe, and fern, that fpfead over its furfacej form fomewhat of a piCturefque fcene; but a general want of trees* &c. for a. fore groiind, and a requifite variety of well-difpofed objecls^ render it not .adapted for the compofition of a landfcape painter. ... " Yet ftill, e'en here, Content can fpread a charni, " Redrefs the clime, and its rude winds difarrn." Rain is frequent in fmall portions, and the winds boifter- bus ; but neither the heat in fummer, nor the cold in win ter, is in extremes.* Poft-chaifes may be had at Douglas arid Caftletown, at 9d. per mile.§ The roads are good and exempt from tdlls, but deftitute of mile-ftones, except from Douglas to Caftle town; a duty of ios. 6d. on publick -houfes; 5s; 2d. on greyhounds and poiriters, and 6d. on other dogs, with mo- ibme daks, which, it is fiippdfed, being their favourite tree, was in troduced by them. * See alfo on this head the parochial account of Jurby. § The principal inns are the George, Downes j Mr. Duggan's, and Redfearn's, at Caftletown. At Douglas is the hotel, Clague ; George Wilfon's Liverpool coffee;houfe ; Meflrs. Ray's, Atkin- fon's, and Coultry Cannels. At Peele, Black's, the White- Horfe; and at Ramfay, Mr. Hendry's, and Mr. Cornelius Hinde's, the King's-Head. Befides thefe there are one or tworefpeftableinnsin. villages, particularly at Kirk-Michael, where the beautiful hoftefs cannot fail to attract and pleafe every vifitant. By an aft in 1739, the number of publick-houfss in the ifland is limited to 300, at five icore to the hundred. ' t k derate 13© A TOUR THROUGH derate tlatute duty, repair the roads. Thefe, with od. on paffes^ are the only taxes levied. ,! Salt is exempted from duty; 14m. cofts about fixpence Englifh, this tax has always been odious in all countries; In France, it was a forerunner of the revolution. Iaztttaly, it kicau-fed great commotions; years elapfed before the States could bring it to three-farthings per pound, their prefent duty. And in England it was firft knpofed under the idea of its being only temporary ! An additional duty of 81. per ton on port wine is faid to be in contemplation, and that the ifland is to form a receptable for French pflifoners and emigrants. Five rivers have harbours, viz. Ramfay, Laxey, Douglas, Caftletown, and Peele; on the north- fide three rivulets meet the fea at Ballure, Milltown, and Ballaugh; befides which are twenty four others of a diminutive kind in the ifland. Thefe places, with the mines and mountains, fhould be vifited. A voyage round the ifland is feldoni thought pf as an amufementfor (hangers; but a fail round the Calf is ftrongly enjoined, but the weather even for this fhould be very feleiSt, to render it adequate to expectation : I was content with a ramble through it. Aquatic excurfions of any length defeat their purpofe from the uncertainty of time and weather, and prove difagtseeable fram the .oonvulfive operations of fea fick- nefs : fo that, ag Mr. Wyndha-m obferves,* parties generally exprefs more pleafure at their return, than either at the acttral cormnertcement or in any part of its continuation.. The excutfion tp the Calf is generally made from Pert Iron* from which 'it is about three miles (vide Kkk-Chrift * -A.^iftpreof the Me of Wight, delineated upon tibeifpot. By H. P. Wyndham, efq; of Salifbury.' Egerton, 1794, 8vo. Rufhen THE ISLE Of man. 131 Rufheri parifh.) Its furface is rather barren, fo that I can- hot defcant on its piCturefque fcenery; every thing bearing the character of the fublime, tending to raife the bolder emo tions pf the mind, rather than amufe it with gentle fenfa- tions. The eye; is regaled from its heights with the azure Vault of heaven, and beneathi, the briny furface is covered with fwelling fails, either impelled with the chearful breeze, or agitated by bleak winds or (cowling (forms, while frig furrounding furface of the ground prefents a verdure, wild and innocent — " Juft where the diftant coaft extends a curve, " A lengthen'd train of fea-fowl urge their flight. " Obferve their files ! in what exadt array -" The dark battalion floats, diftindtiy feen " Before yon iilver cliff! now> now they reach " That lonely beacon; now are loft again u In yon dark cloud. How pleafing is the fight." Gilpin. Round the Calf you fee innumerable quantities of fea- birds, wild pigePns, &c. The quantity of herrings, &c. they annnually deftroy, are fuppofed to be fome hundred thoufand barrels. Mr. Townley fays, the wild or rock pigeons, found in the cliffs from Peele to the Calf, ate fmaller than the dove-coat pigeons, and of a much darker colour, being almoft black. The legs and feet are a beautiful red, beaks yellow; they are fweet and high-flavoured. The mountain of Snaffield, and perhaps the Barrules, fhould be vifited. Sneeaylle, or Snafield, is 580 yards above the level of the fea, and affords, of a clear day, a re markable and extenfive profpect of the coafts of England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales; as, from Allonby in Cum berland, to Pile of Foudre in Lancafhire, 45 miles. Frorn k 2 Arklow 1^2- A'TOUK THROUGH Ark-low mountains in Ireland, to the northward of Belfaft, is 105 miles. From Barnamore hill in Scotland, to the Criffit mountains',' near Dumfries, 54 miles. And the coaft of: Wales, from Holyhead to Rudland, 45 miles. Did this mountain only prefent a complete, view of the ifland, and its taiious mountains, it would be a, peculiarly delightful and novel fpectacle. Between.Douglas and Kirk-Michael, you pafs a very romantic folitary dell of confiderable length. i: The ruins of Peel caftle, &c. will not fail to repay every expectation formed of them; but " frowning turrets, maffy walls, and gloomy dungeons, make the imagination of a contemplative man wholly at variance with the beauty and ferenity of the fpot; and he will think only of fieges, chains, torture, and death."* I fhall notice every thing worthy again, under their paro chial heads. In going from Glenmoi to Caftletown, I loft my way ; the- profpect was dreary, the road fwampy, and no track appeared. " Lo ! all around a moft alarming gloom ! " A fog of monftraus.fiize, and footy creft, " Sate like a nightmare., fquat on Mona's breaft." Stowel. What to do it was difficult to tell — at length the cottage of a mountainer prefented, but the owner being unable * Mr. Maton's Weftern Tour, 2 vols. 8vo. Salilbury, 1797, plates. , Peel Caftle, for its fituation, antiquity, ftrength, and beauty, might juftly be (tiled 'one of the wonders of the world, art and na ture-having appeared to vie with each otheiin its formation^ It is built on a huge rock, ;which rears itfelf a ftupendous height above the fea, by which it is furrounded, and is fortified by feveral of Jefs magnitude. Clara Lennox, See page 72. to THE ISLE Of MAN. 133" to fpeak Englifh, my application was unheard, but by fighs I prevailed on him (pointing to my purfe) to be my guide; he put me, with fome trouble, in the direct road; I preffed a reward on him, but he refufed to accept any thing, leaving me to wonder at fuch unexpected civility in the rudeft cop-, fines of a remote mountain. To crofs thefe mountains is but uncomfortable at beft, and if fogs fhould come, dn^ a ftranger muft lofe his way inevitably. .. , ^ The mountains abound in fprings, but the water, thought good, is not of a fuperior kind. Of fpirjts, rum is generally* drank, and whifky* is not fo fcarce as gin and brandy. Port wine is extremely good, and is fold from 12s. to 15S.S per dozen : a fingle bottle at the inns is charged 2s. ; but if bought in quantities, may be had for lefs than thefe prices. Economy prevails in houfeftold management, and the fe male branches fpin, at leifure, flax ; and thus produce excel lent diapej, check, linen, Sec. for family ufe. The fairs, which are not jnfefted with (harpers, fhowmen, &c. as in England, ferve to enliven the friendfhip of different parts; and the affemblies, races, &c. that originate from them, afford an opportunity of a mutual affociation of the northern beaux and belles, with the fouthern. " As Eubonia's fons " Excel in every virtue, manly, brave, " Amidft th' alarms of fate; gen'rous, fincere, " By glory kindled : may her virgins tOQ, . " Supremely fair, midft beauty's brighteft blaze " In foft perfections fhine ! May Hymen wave * The word whijky fignifies water, and is applied by way of emi nence to ftrong water, or dillilled liquor. It is drawn from barley, and is preferable to Englifh malt brandy. Johnfon's Journey to the Weftern Iflands, 8vo. 1775- "His I34 A TOUR THROUGH " His purple wings, and o'er the (acred couch " -His azure mantle fpreadj as down ye fink "¦ In wedlock's chafie embrace, and oft renew " The hallow'd rapture : thus may peaceful life ''" Flow undifhirb'd, nor jarring feuds, invade " Your happy hours."* The ladies are fenfible, polite, and accbmplifhed ; pleafihg and elegant in their addrefs, and of a more domeftick turn than the ladies of England of the fame rank or fortune. They are alfo fond ' pf mufick and dancing, and excel in each. FsfhiPn foon finds her way hither from the three kingdoms. " The packet's come, I'll lay my life upon it: " i know by pretty Betjy's helmet bonnet !" The native charms of the belles, affifted by milliners and mantua-makers of judgment and tafte, dignify an affembly, and enliven foriety, with as a great degree of fpirit as any in England; nor do they recur to foreign artifices to folicit love and admiration. As afpecimeri.ofi Manks gallantry, I give you the follow ing complimentary acroftick, which- was fent to a lady pf- Liverpool, with whom I failed to the ifland. * Beauty, a poem; publifhed with " The Sugar-Cane," izmq. 1766, by Dr. Grainger. T9 THE ISLE OF MAN. 135 To the Lady :t&ke$e Name it bmr». C harms fuch as thine, the- Cyprian goddefs wore, (H eay'n-born and nourifh'd by divine ambrofia) A nd wreath'd with fmiles the angry brow of Jove. R ofe-lipt and pout-mouth'd as the blooming Hebe, L ove feeds the luring anguifh of thine eye — O h ! how Elyfium beameth from that fmile ! T hee, Flora (brews the vernal plains to pleafe; T hee, Nature fmiles to court, — her beauties thine. E nravifh'd I behold, enraptur'd I adore ! R ob'd in the grace of innocence and truth, O 'er thy fweet brow virtue benignly fhed, B eaiity, pure mental beauty, mildnefs foft, I mprefling all with reverence and love. N ot Paprios e'er could boaft a fairer form — S uch Grace I No, Phidias, thy (kill could ne'er O n marble carve fuch fymmetry divine; N or Jove a nobler mind did e'er infpire. June 13, 1797. Pit a pat pito cette miavo. But independent of the effufions of " youthful poets when the love," it is acknowledged that Charlotte and Julia R. both poffefs qualities that muft gratify the warmeft withes of parental affection. " The natives of the lower clafips are of a fwarthy com plexion, flout, with an air of melarichply pervading their countenances \ the men are indplent, but the women, are active and lively; they wear no ftockings nor (hoes, except pn particular occafions; the men wear (hoes or fandals, which- I36 A TOUR THROUGH which they call kerranes, made of untanned leather; their. cottages ai"e low turf buildings, thatched in an humble ftyle, and the thatch is bound; down with a network of ftraw ropes interfering each, other. At the principal places are gentlemen in the various branche.s~of the medical profefiiori, aftd women are now fenfible of the danger of having ignorant female attendants in midwifery; who, poffeffirig no knowledge of the animal ceconomy, npr of the anatomical. ftruCture of the human frame, muft, therefore be ill-qualified for a proper djCcfiarge of this important and tender office. What Dr.,. , Johnfon . fays of the Erfe language, may apply to the Manks— ^' it is. the fpeech of a people who have " few thoughts to exprefs : it is not a written language, and V whoever writes it, fpells according to his own perception " of the found." I have mentioned its origin in page 61. The primeval Celtick. branched into three grand divifions,: I. Ancient Gaulijh, frpm which no Janguageis fully derived. 2. Ancient Britijh, from whence is defcended Welch, Armo- rican, and Cornifh. 3. Ancient Irijh, from whence comes the modern Irjfh, ..the. Erfe, or Highland Scots, and the Manks language.*^ s From political ballads we ,may catch the fentiments that prevail. Sitting around the blazing hearth one evening with, a number of Mankfmen, and rocking the cradle of an in- fant be'fide me, the toaft and foris; 'went round,' in One of which I recolleCf the following liries^ alluding to the transfer of the ifland — • " For the babes unborn will rue the day, " That the Ifle of Man was fold away; " For there's ne'er ah old wife that loves a dram, "'But what" will lament for the Ifle of Man!" .jv- , * Mallefs Norftiern Antiq. 2 vols. 8vo^ 1770. Carnan, p. 24, i'5. THE ISLE OF MAN. l37 When what, they here denominate ;the trade, that is fmuggling, was carried on, the accefs to ardent fpirits was fo eafy, that drunkennefs was a common vice, and the morals of the lower orders was in a moft depraved ftate. " It is impoflible tp reflect without great fatisfaction on <* the actual, gain that refults to ;t.he nation from the pre- 5C fervation of the morals and health of perfons, whofe lives ¦f. are fhortxned by the immoderate ufe of ardent fpirits."* As this letter is mifcellaneous, I fhall conclude it , with telling you I was at the opening pf the Manks parliament, at Caftletown. . His Grase.the Duke of Athol, as governor in chief,. &c. fat ip ftate in one of the courtrooms; in Caftle- Rufhen. On one fide, was; the Lord. Bifhop" of Man; on the other, the.Heut.-Governor; beneath, the, two deemfters in their robes, with other ftate officers, (fee letter xIL) . The Keys being defired. to attend, fat round the table; and without the bar were the fpeCtators. His Grace prefaced the bufinefs, by expreffing the intereft he always felt in every thing that concerned the happinefs of the ifland, and that it was with much pleafure he now met them to announce his Majefty's goodnefs, in having granted him (with full power to ufe as he beft thought fit) a fum large enough to anfwer all the great publick purpofes, necefiary to the fafetyand dignity of their government; fuch as, the erection of publick courts of judicature, forming * In London, previous to, the late ftoppage of the diftilleries, it was calculated that the confumption of gin and compounds was on an average annually about three millions of gallons. The high price of gin rendering it inacceffible, the lower clafles applied their money in the purchafe of provifion s, perhaps to the extent of fome hundred thoufands a year, in London alone. Treatife on the Police, 8vo. harbours, I j8 A. TOUR THROUGH harbours,'&c. That he had ever the will and difpofidon to ferve them, and now he had alfo the power; doubting not, that by their mutual co-operation and exertions for the com mon weal, the ifland would be raifed to that degree of confequence it was capable of and merited. He then laid before them >fome acts of Tynwald which had previeufly paffedy but which, on being fent for the royal fignature to England, the crown lawyers had objected to and returned, on account of fome informality in the word ing; thefe therefore he now re-fiibmitted altered, to the .Keys. After various heads of 'publick bufinefs were fpoken on by his Grace, the members of the Keys retired to their own houfe, and after fome debates, rejected, Iunderftood, one act fo amended in ioto. I could not gain admiffion into the Houfe of Keys, fo that I was not gratified with any fpeci- men of Manks oratory, hut the principal and. moft famed fpeaker was not prefent. — Adieu ! LETTER THE ISLE OF MAlf, 1 39 ¦wfM&raftkWW LETTER XIL To the sanie. deA"4 sih, T.M.^ddition tp what is. faid of the Houfe of Keys in the -*¦ third letter, page 37, 1 now fend fome farther remarks,- with their names, date of ek$ion, and refidence : fome ob servations on their laws, and the ceremony adopted in their promulgation; together with an account of the principal eftates in each parifh. In 1450 a Houfe of Keys was elected by the people, but foon after they eleCted themfelves, and they continue fo to do. From the decrees and judgments of the Governor, and the determiriation of the Keys, an appeal lies to his Majefty in council. Appeals may be had. in caufes of fo low a value as five pounds. They were anciently called Taxiaxe; and Mr. C. Valiant cey, in a letter to Mr. More, of Douglas, (whofe politenefs I here acknowledge)- remarks, that " in the Gaedhlic, taifce, is a pledge or hoft≥ and qifce, a trefpafs. Query, therefore, were they not obliged to offer themfelves as hof- tages to the Lord, for the trefpaffes committed by their clans, in the fame manner as the Duime t-agu of the ancient Irifh ? ' ' The Houfe of Keys appear to have been always jealous of their right. They have uniformly oppofed any thing that they conceived militated againft them in parliament. The I40 A TOUR THROUGH The people look up to them as the guardians of their property and rights ; and it does not appear that they have ever forfeited their confidence^ One remarkable inftance I fhall beg leave to ftate to their honour. So uncertain was the ftate pf property, that in 1643, from the fraud of a Deemfter, the people were prevailed on to furrender their eftates, under the idea that they held merely as tenants at will. The Deemfter and Lord's officers led the way, gave up their eftates, and accepted leafes for lives of their eftates of inheritance; the people followed their exam ple. The Deemfter, however, obtained a reftoration of his eftate by an act of Tynwald^ and thepeople found thein- felves deceived. The Keys ftepped forward, acted with firmnefs,.andin 1703. obtained the act of. fettlement, which1 did away thefe proceedings and reftored the violated tenures. .-••.;. A List qf'ihe House of Keys, 1798, I7S? John Taubman, efq; Speaker, Caftletown. • 1767 :Wm.' Callow, efq; Cloughbane. 1773 Samuel Wattleworth, efq; Knock-Rufhen, j.774 John Stevenfon, efq; Largadoo, 1774 Philip Moore, efq; Poolvafh. j 775 William Cubbon, efq; Balla-Calliri. 177-5 Wflliam: Chriftian, efq;,Balla~Younage.'- 1777 John C: Curwen, M,' P.' Workington- Hall, Cum berland. ':-:.. ;. 1779 George Quayle, merchant, Caftletown. 1779 John Cofnaghan, attorney, Douglas. i*2i Thomas Allen, efq; Balla-Varrey. 1785 John Taubman, major, Nunnery. • 1788 THE ISLE- OF MAN.-, 1 4 1 1788 Richard Symonds, .merchant, Douglas. 1790 James Brew; farmer, Kella. , 1791- Thomas jCirwan, efq; Caftletown. 1 79 1 John Harrifon, efq; Cooilbane.' 1793 Thomas Gawne, attorney, Dougks. ! 1793 Daniel Tillet, captain, Ballenemona; 1793 John Corlett, tanner, Ramfay. 1794 Norris Moore, attorney, Caftletown.-: 1 794 James Kelly, attorney, Caftletown. 1795 James Quirk, efq; Knoekaloe. 1795 Thomas Chriftian, captain, Raynoldfway. 1795 William Quillin, M.D. Parville. In all twenty-four. The above act of fettlement paffed Febuary 4th, 1703, which, with an act explanatory thereof promulged the 6th of June, 1 704, will be found at length in Mr. Stowell-'s new edition of the Statutes of the Ifle, 1797, 8vo. The inhabitants efteem thefe aCts as their Magna Charta, as they form the. bafis of the tenure of the lands and here ditaments, and the true fecurity of the real eftates and pre- mifes within the ifle. Among the laws of the iflarid we find the following, fome of which are lingular. " No action of arreft (hall be granted againft a landed man, or native within this ifle, to imprifon or hold him to bail, unlefs he has obtained the governor's- pafs, or that there is fome other juft caufe to believe he defigns to go off the ifland ; and that any perfon profecuted for a foreign debt by an action of arreft, (hall be held to bail -only for his per fonal appearance to fuch action, and for the' forth-coming of what effects he hath within this ifland." ' , .. ""If t4!l A TOUR THROUGH «' If any man die, the widow to have one half ef alt his goods, and half the tenement in which fhe lives during her widowhood, if his firft wife; and one quarter, if the fecond or third wife. The eldeft daughter inherits, if there be no fon, though there be other-children. " *' If a man get a maid with child, and then within a year or two after doth marry her, fuch child is judged' to be legi timate by our laws." " Perfons beating another violently, ^befide punifhment and charges of cure, are fined iosk But if the perfon fo beat ufed upbraiding and provoking language fo as to caufe fuch beating, they are to be fined 1 3s. 4d. and to be im- prifoned." An ancient ordinance fays, " There ought to be Corbs pertaining to a man, as if his father have a pan, the fon to have it; or elfe his heft jack and fallet; bow and arrows, (Commuted by flat, of 1 748* for the modern weapons of •war) his beft board, and beft ftool ; his coulter and racken* tree; his beft cup, if it be wood and bound with filver and gilt; his beft cheft. For a woman, the beft wheel and cards, rackentree; a fack, or elfe a Manks fpade; the beft bead of jet pr amber; the beft broach ; the beft crofs; the beft pot or pan," " If any man take a woman (Temporal cuftom. laws, 1577) by conftraint, or force her agajnft her will; if fhe be a wife he muft fuffer the law for her : if (he be a maid or fingle ¦woman, the deemfter (hall give her a rope, a fword, and a ring, and fhe fhall have her choice, either' to hang with the * By the faid ftat»t$, protectants are allowed to keep fire-arms, w.hieh. " .are to defcend to their heirs and affigns, in place of the ancient weapons gf war 'called corbs, and be a full fatjsfaftion for the fame." rope. THE ISLE OE MAN. 143 fope, cut. of Ins head with the fword, or marry him with the ring." Report fays that every complainant has been lenient, except one, who prefented the rope; but relented on the pri- foner being tucked up, and defired he might be let down. She then prefented the ring, but- the man replied, ": That one punifliment was enough for one crime ; therefore he fhould keep the ring: for fome future oceafion." Wives have -a power to make their wills (though their hufbands be living) of one half of all the goods ; except in the fix Northern parifhes, where. the wife, if (he has had children, can only difpofe of a third, part of the living goods. Tradition fays, the South-fide ladies obtained this fuperior privilege, by.afiifting their hufbands in a day of battle. Executors of fpiritual men have a right to, the year's pro fits, if they live till after" twelve o'clock on.Eafter-day. They retain the udage (obfervedby the Saxons before the conqueft) that the. Bifhop, or fome prtefi. appointed by him, do always fit in their great court along with the governor, till fentence of death (if any) is to be pronounced; the Deemfter afking the jury, inftead of guilty or not guilty — ,Vodfir charreefoie? which is, " May the man of the chan cel, or he that minifters at the altar, continue to fit?" Mortgages muft be recorded within fix months ; and by the laws of the ifland, all mortgagees are empowered, at the expiration of five years from the date of their mortgage, to take pofleflion of the lands granted in mortgage, and retain the fame until the mortgage is paid off,. Jetting the bods yearly by publick auction, and crediting the mortgager with the rent. Notwkhftanding which the mortgager has a right at any time to pay off the mortgage within 11 years. In 1594, among other articles to be enquired of at the then next confiftory court, were the following: — "That 144 A T0UR- THROUGH " Thafc-fhe Queen's Majefty's injunctions are td berea«f in their churches. " That they enquire of and prefent' if there be any. in this ifle that do ufe witchcraft or forcery. . - " Alfo, all fuch as carry bells or. banners before the' dead, or pray upon the graves of the dead." Their criminal code of laws do not provide againft many offences committed in the prefent times ; but I doubt not but the Houfe of Keys will foon " extend to the public^ thofe bleffings which fhall arife from improved laws, admi- niftered with purity, under a correcTand energetickfyftemof police; and applicable to the prefent ftate of fociety;" The annual mode of promulgating the laws, is at the Tynwald hill. This mount is fuppofed to be a Danifh barrow: Ting fignifies. a court of juftice; . and wald, fenced. The fpot where the parliament met in Ireland bore the fame name.* . And at Caftletown, the: Governor, Council, Deemfters, and Keys, when afferiibled, conftitute a Tynwald Court. , : . ' : ' The following is a recent account of the forms obferved at the Tynwald hill. " Agreeable to ancient cuftom, every parifh fent four horfemen, properly accoutred ; and the captain of every pa rifh prefided over thofe of his own diftrict.. . About eleven o'clock the cavalcade arrived at St. John's, where the Duke of Athol was received by the clergy and keys, and faluted ¦ - - - - . i' * The Weftern iflands had a'fheriff of the ifles, under the Nor wegian dynafty ; but when the lands were parcelled out afterwards by the lords of the ifles, the defcendants of -Somerlade, among barons of different ranks and fizes, each of thefe barons, affifted by the chief men in the community, held his court on fhe top of a bill, called Cnoc an eric, that is, theHill of Pleas, where public bufinefs was tranf- aeted. Macqueen's Diff, on the Gov. of the Weft. Ifles, 1774.. THE ISLE OF'MAN.1 *45' by tlififoneiblesj he then-went in ftate to the chapel, 'where an excellbnt fermon was .pteached.by the Rev. Mr> Corlett, tlie. worthy and learned vicar of Kirk-German. After fervice followed the proeeffion of. ftate. The fen- cibles' were drawn up. in. two lines, from the. chapel door to tfaeTynwald hill; arid the proeeffion palled betwixt the two lines, in the followingjpcder: 1.. The clergy; two and two, the, juniors firft. • ¦2. The Lord Bifhop of Sodor and Man,,,,., , 3. :,The,Vieafs: General. ,¦¦ ¦ ' 4. The two Deemfters.. . ,:'. ,5. Major Taubman, fwprd-bearer. 6. His Grace, the Duke .of A-thou . 7., Tile Lieutenant- Govetnor. 8. The Clerk of the Rolls. . . ;: 3i:;i: 3r: .-. 9. The twenty-four Keys, two and two.- ' . v .:., - ' io» The Captains1 of thedifferent parifhes. "»n ' As foon as his Grace had afcendedtbe hill, he was feated, under the canopy,™ his chair of ftate;- The Deerrifters then proceed in the.cuftbmary bufinefs, of the day: — but for this, and the order of the court, we .prefent the following extract from, the ancient ftatute relating, to . this bufinefs : — li This is the conftitution; of old time how the Lord "fhould he. governed .on the Tynwald 'day: firft he is to " come thither in his royal array, as a King ought to do, "by the prerogatives and. royalties of the land of Man, and " upon the Tynwald, hill. fit in a chair covered with a royal " cloth and cufhions,j:and:.his vifage to the'eaft, and his " fword before himj holden with, the point upwards, his ba- ' " rons in the third degree . fitting befide hirn^ arid his berie- " need men and , deemfters before, him,: and his clerks, " knights, efquires, and yeomen about him, and the 'wor- " thieft of the land to be called in before the deemfters, if \ l « the 14(5 A TOUR THROUGH e« the lord wiH afk-ahy thing of them, and to hear the go- '? vemment of the land and the lord's wilL/ and the com- " mons to ftand without the circle of the hill with three' " clerks in their furplices, and the deemfters (hall call in the * coroner of'Glanfaba, and he fhall call in all the coroners * of Man, and their rods in their hands, and their weapons* " upon them, either fword or ax, and the tnoars of every fMheading; then the chief coroner, that is, the coroner of " Glanfaba, (hall make a fence upon pain of life and limb, " that no man fhall make any difturbance, or fur, in the " time of Tynwald, or any murmuror rifing in the King's " prefence, upon pain of hanging and drawing : and all the " the barons, worthieft men and commons, to make faith " and fealty to the lord; and then to proceed in whatfoever " matters are there to do in felony arid treafon, or other " matters that touch the governance of thedand." The new laws were read in Englifh, and afterwards in Manks: and, after all the bufinefs on th.e hill was gone through, three cheers werej given, to the lord lieute nant and governor in1 chief. His Grace then de- fcended from the hill, and the prtfceffioa moved back again to the chapel*' in the fame-regular brder. After the neceflary bufinefs was finifhed in the; chapel, fuch as figning the laws, &c. his Grace was conducted to his coach, and returned to his feat; The feveral eftates above-mentioned, of governor, council, deemfterSj, and keys, have power of making ordinances"; which have the effect of laws without the royal affent, and this is a privilege peculiar to< this iflarid* a circumftance moft probably afifing from fituation, as many hidden emergencies" might require a difpatch which could riot-await the obtaining the royal affent. "Thefe THE ISLE OF MAN. 147 " Thefe ordinances are certain orders and refolutions, which have front time to time been made by feparate branches of the legiflature, and which have been received and ufed as laws, and are retained in ufe and force at this day. They are, properly fpeaking, a part of the common law, and are in force no further than they have been fanctioned by and retained in ufe."* It is doubted if Englifh aCts of parliament will bind this ifland in any cafes but in matters of revenue, and that fuch ought to be firft promulged on the Tynwald hill. Attornies are native's, their fees are regulated by the fta- tute law, and asafpecimen I fubjoin a few. At the Rolls office (by flat. 1734) for entering an action and a copy thereof, containing one fide of half a (heet of paper, 6d. If it exceeds the common length of action, for every twenty-four words; an halfpenny. Copy of an action and decree in Chancery, is. &c. Spiritual Court Fees. For writing probate of a will (by flat, of 1748) is. 2d. For a poor perfon, 4d. Granting adminiftration, 3s. 4d. &c. Attornies Fees. Retainer, (by flat, of 1777) as. lid. Attendance to receive inftructions, 3s. 4-d. Draft of bill in Chancery, (heer. written on all fides, 3s. 6d. Filing and ordering an office copy, is. 2d.; attendance at the office to receive the faid copy, 7d. Taking out a common action, 7d» Arguing on a trial before the deemfter, 2s. 1 id. &c. Small as thefe fees are, yet I am informed a principal at torney gets about 300I. per annum. The' fpirit of litigation is too prevailing, foftered by this circumftance and by the promptitude of decifion. * Preface to Statutes and Ordinances of the Ifle of Man, by T. Stowel, 8vo. 1792. Douglas, Brilcoe. ' ' L 2 The 1.4-8 A. TOUR THROUGH"; The prefent attorneyr-general. is Mr, Franklin. aV;.,'; ;.By an act of Tynwald, paffedin' 1796, perfon? circula ting feditious books* or fpeaking fedLtiojifly,.are fiibje&ed -to- . a-penalty.not exceeding jqpI, and Pne year's imprifonment.' To be tried by a jury of fix"} men before the deemfter; fub- jeCt to imprifonment on the deemfter' s. warrant, until bond be given for the fum, and for appearance to'ftaftd trial. , -.This ifland has. ever been Very. loyal; in the ;time of the Lord ProteCtor Cromwell,- t!w.:iftwd;und^r-Lord- Derby fubfcribed two funis of 50c!. 'each towards thetrpyal caufe; thisfjirn .riifcft. at that period have amounted, fo. nearly half the fpecie in circulation. And in t'hec 'recent fubfcriptions they have (hewn their attachment to the Britifh government by doing as much .as their. abilities;,wsekl permit. .-.The Houfe of Keys fubfcribed. 1-7-51. as a voluntary gift- on the. late, occafion, with the-fbllowing obfervations. . •-., .,,.,-" House \of Keys, March 13, 1798. ,. " The .Keys, of the Ifle of Man, the .conftitutional-repre- fentatives of the people,* warmly attached to their Sovereign, and the. conftk/ution, of Great-Britain, offer this their mite in aid of their caufe : and they feelingly regret, that in tender ing fo fmall a fum, there is fo great a difproportion between their wifhes and their abilities, having no publick funds at - ... -.,¦¦ ."•.'-. -¦ '...tiz':, • ."¦ 1 .. . „ ¦¦-,. - their difpofal, and being prevented from raifing any, in con fequence pf an influence equally unjuft and impolitic, which unfortunately for their country they are unable to remove." Gf this .influence, though well known in the ifland ; from delicacy, as a. (hanger, I forbear, to ftate or comment oh. A view THE > T9LE"'0F MAN.. 1 49 A view of the principal Estates, H,c. with their ,Ay.:l'.:AJ .z'.^i .Proprietors, 1798." -\d ,"¦ '¦<-\>,-',1.,.' -fit!* - ., H * • , , | . .'.'-¦„'.„ ^?:.~: ii.1 -r'.:-' ¦¦ -- In Maughold. ,„r- .-.,> v Ballakilly,* belonging to Mrs. D. Callow. Cloughhaue; Mr,.Wipam Callow,-' Balhtglafs,.Mr. G.CaHow. -Balla- fail,Mr,.Thomas Fargher. : Before; Mr. Johri'Chriftia'nl Ballaftole, Mr. John FriffeL.- The Geary, a pleafant houfe; tenanted at prefent by Simor^Purdon, efq. „ N..^. Lewaigue was. formerly the chief eftate,. ^but it is nWdividedriito various portions, , , ^ --,-<¦,' Lezayre, 5 ¦ ¦ " <»" Ballakillighan, Dr. Curphy. Milltown, J. C, Curwen, jun. efq; tenanted at : prefent by Mr. Ctifphy,' jun. Gfen- traman, Mr. John Corlett, H. K. (from glen" and tramari, an elder.) Loughan-nyeigh*,' -Capt. J. Corletf. - Gleriduff, Mr. Crow, &c. Ellanbane, Mr. Standifb Chriftian. The Nappin, Mr. D. Tiller,, The Grange, Mr. Dela Prime. Ballabrooie, Mr, W. Garratt, Co.oilbane, Mr. Harrifon. The Kella, Mr, James Brew. The Great Kella, Mr. J. Corlett. Balladroma, Mr. W.' Curphy. Ballad6ole,'Mn Goldfmith. Auft, Mr. Clarke, &c. B-ride< Ballacpwle, Mr. Wm. Moore, Ballypnage, Mr. Chrif tian, Ballampar, Mr. Corlett. Ballakilley,,Mrs.,Copeland. * The word Balla is thus explained in Owen's Welch Di<5t. '8vo. 1793. Bala, s. m. — pi. t. on. (bal) a.fliooting out, or difcharge, eruption ; Balacoed, the budding or bloflbm of trees j Balallyn, the outlet or efflux of. a lake; hence it is prefixed to the name of many places in Wales, Ireland, and Scotland. Andreas I50 A TOUR THROUGH Andreas. w ., M Ballavodan, his Grace the Duke of Athol's. Gilghagh, Mr. James Brew. Ballavary, Mr. Thomas Allen. Balla- churry, Mr. Thomas Chriftian. Ballaradcliffe, Mr. J. T. Radcliffe. Ballawhane, Mn John Tear. N.B. This gentleman's: family have been long in pofc- feflion of fome valuable medicinal preparations; which they liberally diftribute to the relief of the poor.> ¦¦ Jurby. ll " ¦¦""' Ballarnoar, Mr. Chriftian. Clerks, or Weft Napping, which is a qqarteland a half, (fee page 46) Mr, Clerk. Sartfield, Deemfter Lace. Ballaugh. The eftates in this panfh run rather fmall, in general not exceeding iool. per annum. _ The principal proprietors are the families of Gelling, Cur\ett, Crane, and Tear. Major Taubman has alfo fome property in it. Kirk-Michael. The Bifhop's Domain. Whitehoufe, Major Taubman's, the refidence of Mr. Wilks. The two Crenanes and Bark, Mr. Cannells. Orrifdale, the property and feat of John Friffel Crellin, efq; deemfter. German. Lhaigod. Baljahough, Mr. Watterfon. ' The Roqnaneys, Mr. Cotchill, Mr. Knightfon.,,Mr. Gawn. , Arbory. rBalladoole, Captain Stevenfon. .rBallakeigin, Mr. Ker- win. The Friary, Mr. Tyldefley.;;, Ballanorris, Major Taubman. Balla-kindry, Mr. Harrifon. Ballaclague, Mrs. Harrifon. Mr. Quillin's hahdforiie feat is the refidence of the Rev. Mr. Spence. , ¦ - , ,., - . . - j'-- Santon.""-11 Mount-Murray,, Lord Henry Murray, (late Sir Wadf- worth Bulk's.)' Oatland, Mr. Gates.. Ballahough, Mr. J. Moore. Maery-voir, Ballacrega, ;&c. Mr. John Clucas^- captain of the parifh, Malew.. "Reholdfway, Pr Reginaldfway, Thomas Chriftian, efq; captain of the R. M. battalion. The Cfeiggans, a well- Cultivated eftate', Mr. Quayle's, late Clerk of the 'Rolls. Ballanot, Rufhen- Abbey, wittTjfhe adjoining lands, Sec. belong to the late Deemfter Moore's family. N. B. In this enumeration of eftates I have been as accu rate as my information would permit. The omiffion of any name or eftate, the proprietors rti ay reft affured, is not intentional... To a. card that I circulated to folicit in-fbtma- ¦ - i tion THE ISLE OF MAN. l& tion on various topics connected ,with-theifland,it is rather Angular, not a fingle- reply, was returned;- this I truft will fufficiently apologize for any omiffion on my part. . POSTSCRIPT. ,-:\l perceive by the-ftate of the Humane Society for 1798, (an inftitution for the; recovery of perfons drowned, or by any other means apparently dead) that the. prize qiiefion for the next year, 4s " on the means of prefer.ving mariners from fbipw;reek, pointing put.the, moft probable means of keeping the veffel afloat, and alfo of conveying afliftance from fhore to veffels , in diftrefs wnhjp a mqderate diftance from land, and when. boats, dare not venture out to their aid," This information will be particularly acceptable to all in fular fituations, and very much fo to the Ifle of Man. When the Manks are informed that this fbciety, in which you, fir, have borne fo aCtive and diftinguifhed a part, have by their continued efforts faved between two and three thou- fand lives from premature death, they will no doubt be happy to diffufe a knowledge: of its- plan- and -proeefs- over their country. Permit me, therefore, to exprefs a wifh that this fpot may in turn be an object of your notice. Any of your fmall portable communications or cards, if configned to Meffrs.: Leece and "Dfinkwater, refpeCtable merchants in Liverpool, will be by them readily diffufed through the principal towns of Man. I was much gratified with Mr. Shairp's* letter to you, dated St. Pcterfburgh, Sept. 25, 1797-,'wherein he inclofes, *-His-Majefly's eonfid»©en€r-al4n Ruffisf. -~--- "--'" as l54- A TOUR THROUGH as a prefent to the fociety, one hundred pounds from the Britifh1 Factory there, for the fervices you have rendered them in eftablifhing a fimilar fociety in that city. " Recording fpirits round life's altar ftand — " Eejloredthey come- to hail the gen'rous hand " That rais'd fuch bleflings in his native land/'t I was pleafed with the dialogue of William and Henry, written for your anniverfary of 1 798, particularly with the above deferved compliment to yourfelf for your philanthro pic exertions in the godlike caufe of refufcitation. I now proceed to give you the beft account I can of my walk through the ifland, which I truft will be the more ac ceptable, as the publick are in pofleflion of no parochial (ketches of it. I was accompanied by J. E. Wright, of America, who is fince gone on the coaft of' Guinea, as a furgeon ; and whofe attention, (kill, and humanity, to his unfortunate brethren, I have no dpubt, will do him great credit. — Adieu ! t Dr- Hawes, to whom thefe letters are addrefled. ¦**.VA^ PAROCHIAL TOUR THE ISLE OF MAN. '~\ Si^C1 PAROCHIAL TOUR. ;::.-- CS THE ISLE'OF- MAN IS MVEDErJ TNTO^SEVENTEBH . PARISHES, VIZ. ,s*)01ii ¦ t ,! V> Mc "' A I. £>1 Maughold. s, . 2. A. Christ Lezayre. 3. A. i?ntf In 1791 the German Empiricks, Goergflenner and Schedet, vifited the ifland^ but their flay was fhort. . The religious fociety of St. Bees was poffeffed of fome valuable property in this parifh, and a fmallfum- is now paid annually to St. Bees' fchool, on which account the parifh claims a right of fending two boys thither, gratis. There, is. a fmall portion of land in this parifh the pro perty of John Chriftian. Gur.wen, efq; faid to be a barony; confifting of a fmall tenement, called Ball- Ellen, or Ball- Jllin, computed to be half a quarterland ; which, with the remainder thereof, confifting of a parcel of heathy land, and hough or ftrand, is rated in the parifh accounts to one quarterland. The quit-rent is faid to have been raifed fome yeats ago from 2cs. Manks, to 20s. Britifh, and is. payable to Mr. C. Curwen, but he holds no court there. Of the fmall diftrict, called Staff-Land, the quit-rents or dues go to his Grace the Duke of Athol's impropriator, or leffee of the impropriate tithes of K. Maughold. -j- A plan of this harbour is annexed to the Report of the Com* mifTioners in 1793. This, 160 a-tour'T^hrOugH"' -.-This, in common with other parifhes, has a parochial Englifh fchool, generally, fituated near the church. " '¦ - On the road fide from Ramfay* near Port le Voillen, is a (tone of confiderable antiquity ; fix feet high, three wide, and five inches thick, with five raifed balls on it, (fee plate ii. Other (tones '(probably Danifh) in the church-yardj are re- prefented in the fame plate. A fimilar one to that in Kirk Michael parifh lies without. the: church-yard; and oppofite is the beautiful pillar reprefented in plate i. Maughold head is a bold promontory, with tiers of mofs- crowned rocks on its fummit. Under thefe rocks is a fine fpring, called St. Maughold's Well, which formerly was, and even at this day is, much refpfted to. on account of its fup- pofed medicinal virtues.; An old legend relates that it has- fo prolific a "quality, that if a barren woman beplaced in -the faint's chair, and take a glafs thereof, 'it imparts fecundity; but it probably loft its virtue, With the lofs of the priefts in whofe cuftody. it ufed to be. .. , . > . , ; ; The church; dedicated to St. Maughold is feventy-two feet long, and only feventeen: broad; this inequality of di- menfions is found to prevail in general. The chancel ap pears to be ancient. The font is very large, evidently made for a total immerfion of the infant. The church-yard occupies a large fpace., " Here, riot to fympathy unknown, " " " Full oft the fad mufe wand'ring near, " Bends filent o'er the moffy, tomb, 1 " And wets it with a willing tear." GereAhd1. During the government of Conindrius and Romulus, we learn, that St. Maughold was caft in here, in a little leathern bbat, his hands manacled and bolts on his feet; tlfe bifhop received Plate l.Fagei6o. Ancient Pillar. Maugtoldiy^S [niiiillli^lTillllllllllllllllHllillllllllllllllillllllllhllllllllllllrt Plate ll.Pa.160 THE ISLE OF MAN. l6l received him with admiration and pby, sfpeciatfy When, he informed him that he had been a captain of robbers in Ire-' land,' and that he voluntarily underwent this, penance for his former courfe of life. He retired into this parifh, where once a city is faid to have been built, but of which there are no remains vifible at prefent. "^In this retirement it was that St.- Bridget, pne of the. tutelary faints of Ireland, game t$, receive the veil of virginity from his haj\d, as her nephew Cogitofus,, who wrote her hfe,, . jnforrqs us,, He was elected Bifhop of fhe Ifland. .. li,;.T f<-.P '; .:..;I'.i- uLt t A rivulet falls into, the fea at Before, and another at Cor- nah ; the former has a bridge over it pn entering Ramfay ; the l&tgB Pij.the.greatj road to, Laxey, both picturefque pbjeCts. :M$Wghold fair was much reforted to before the efiabljuV i$f»tJpf: Qne at Layey;, it |s now bj*t duply attended. ;,i Vicars. The Rev. Thomas Alleq, ip 1642, died, at Ormfkirk> . Robert ,AJfen, i6t>2. Thomas Allen, ,60 years, 1726. W. Rofs, curate .ppe year. ,H, Aj}en.;iaT' AJJerii, his fop. T. W- J. Woods, tranflated to Braddon. In 1769; Thomas Gubbon, who is ,tfi^ pf^efent yicar. .,ii; The fggjftgr bjgjns fo 1647. ,rj , -WW ? ' •¦ 3< Atnong the nptices pf hmi?^, M that pf "7Edrpjiin4 Clirifr, ti88,.Wh.Q.was. fqmetimje captafo at fea, and afterwards, for a timej Governor of the Ifi&jpf Man; .be.^Parted \luslife. in Peele Caftle, being a prifoner there for fomeword^ fbpken conetodBg idle Kfog^hfn the great ^jfferepce ywts betwixt the King and parliament., H© was cojgimptted.-bj Japies; Egrl pf Derby, being then- in jhj.s hie,, a$4 Jph^Gf eeptwVg" gpxeEson. He was buried, jan; 9.2, 1 660, ,^Kitk Maughold church, .where he was baptifed," The words '> Pf-ri/hed at , /t«" often pqcut in the T^gifters,. ; i,G j . , r- ¦ ^ . ;„ Six couple were married in 1732, after which is this pie-., trjor#ndjrn;,by Bifhop Wilfon: — 'T defire . fhj.t the yicar .''Vx ,;;-. tW "foh 162 a tour through « for the future ?fets down by what authority .the perfons " artf joined together in matrimony; whether by -licence, « and by whofe licence, or upon banns in the-church." -.-:. RAMSAY is a fmall neat towri, containing about 3O0 houfes, fituated fixteen miles from Douglas; by the Laxey road* arid twenty- fix miles by way of Kirk Michael ; fixteen frPiri Peel, nine from Kirk Michael, eight from Ballaugh, eight from Jurby, five from Kirk Bride, and four ffoni Kirk Andreas. It has afpacious bay with good anchorage, but the fand has injured its harbour; the pier protects the town; but at a comparatively fmall expeneeyanew quay, newbafon, &c. might be completed: (Vide the plaftsin the Commiflioners* Report, 1792, folio.) ¦""¦"- An excellent harbour could be made at Port Lewaigue, on Ramfay! bay. A quay to run from the land to -the Carrick, or rock, in the corner of the bay, would be the means of af fording a fafe anchorage for veffels of great burden, and doubtlefs the owners of veffels in both channels would fub- fcribe to fuch a work, if government would take the lead. The prefent harbour is very bad, and affords tto fheker but for very frtlall veffels. The expencewould be about 5000I. to do it completely. - r;; The contentions of the early Princes of M*l, rendered Ratrifay often thefeat of war. - It is protected from foreign enemies by a fort, and feve ral pieces of:e'anrton. - The old1 fort was built about 1648, on account of a 'Scotch fhip having entered and plundered the place. The Earl of Derby -Obtained, however, repara tion from the Scotch parliament. ' . Raimfay bay affords plenty of herrings, falmon, and fat fifh1; crabs, periwinkles, fand eers^ &c. The THE ISLE OF MAN. 1 63 The town has a- publick brewery; is trie refidence of the Dfeetnfter for the northern diftrict, who here holds his courts j an&has befides a high*bailifty coroner, lock-rhan, and fum ner. In the cuftom-houfe department here, are a collector, acting collector, fearcher "and deputyj a' riding officer, boat- llleri, &C. .". -j . :;::•:.- ¦ • • It has a Kght-houfe, the lower part of which is now ufed as a temporary prifon^ -"and the publick fchoQi-hbufe is ufed as a court of juftice; but by the Duke of Athol's exertions^ every neceflary publick building, it is faid; is about to be erected ; and the northern belles are to be gratified with an affembly-room. ,'.'¦ • It has a fnuff manufactory, a brewery, a rdpery,' a tan- yard, and a publick Ume-kiln; affemblies are held during the winter; and a friendly fociety was eftablifhed here in 1796. The land lets high near the town; the butter is good, but the cheefe is very bad, and is fo in general; > The "chapel,' a fhort diftance from the town, was built on the ruins of an old Romifh one, about 1706^ to which Bifhop Wilfon gave fh It is fixty-ione feet long, and nineteeri feet broad, neatly feated and flagged. . The roof is (as the roofs are generally) unceilech. Service is performed inEnglifh,andas there are no poor-rates in the ifland, col lections are generally made once a month; or oftener, in this and all the other places of worfhip; for which purpofe handfome copper-pans are provided.* . TheiShftfoh books are, in a difgraceful. ftate. The new verfion with the modern tunes are ufed, which tends to ren der that part of die fervice rational and agreeable. -,. 1 ' * So devoutly1 did the" warming-pan attend divine fervice twice every Sunday, that as Fanner Bull humouroufly obferved, " The " warming-pan was the beil church-going Chriftian in the parilh." Hilt. Church and W. P. 179}- i §4 .a-xoiaa TRaoiuaH -y:R^nikyidb©pkhoikife; (vM fevewteeiv feet ;wide>o:: its rm& builtJljr fofefcriptiorrrahejafc^h^ty ye»i$if}n£el Dr. Wilfon was a rwinfiibal(K>otEii»»fe9l"; and an annual -donatioQ of icL is paid.'in felt, froiaa benefactor in England, ,v.-*:-k. : £..>:•: Marriages are performed at the parilh church, .unlefs kft ^ecia/l licence, pf tyhieh only two infancies;, hive esquired fjn.ee its. r^gjftej.;(30i-nteeojeedS;in 1.76,1..: ..^ cup. and. patten af: filver were, :the" gilts tof Bifhop. and Dr. \VUfon* arjdta pewter iUgpi|'.af{{Jb$la:fe% the.gjft.0f Mj£&; Margaret. Ta»b& fflfrRii *7i4& .M -aI'v.j -I.-. .'i-i'J :i.?'b-ro!» . i- iu».' ."':-v"' -..¦--, Chaplains. The Rev. Mr. Woods, Mr. GeBing;;.Mr. Nelfon, Mfi Crellin,. Mr. Byidfora.t.Mr. Chriftian; and in 1 790, the Rev. Henry Maddrelk. the;, prefent' chaplain. ,;.v «; - j-., .,- In Ranisay Cfaflpel-yard. ,._j s- On aftTftleyated monument.. li Here.repofe the remains of Marg. wife of Rev. Joto Crellin,: daughter of John Friffel, and5g13.ndflBgb.te1r, of Deemfter Chriftianj. to whom this o^osrtjnaent is, erected by Her dlfcojifclatehufhantl; not ap aaad4iffon,toh.«!r.fa!ine-!s5?aift wore that dioughit 1 but >te a teftimany»:fmaJl as it is, of the conftant- and unfeigned foye he, bears to $he rriejSMMiyof die beftofwDraen, and of witos. ;,- :. .,-.-: Puerpera cb. Awg< iiH'^o, astat .31™*'" . ; -..--.riv, ._» : .r,1 v t. . . ?
  • ; then an infant, fey whom this- mono-i Hienjt is .jQOJS-..gEeiited, not-&w»-an impulfe of. vanity, but that of .affeCtion, which, he beaj?s to the mempry of a parent to whom-he was prevented fhewing-any. Pther m^rii pf dutyv "While TCSE ISLF. OF !MAfr.' I65 ". While letter'd marble would in vain impart ' ,B'.' • •^The warm'emotions of .a feeling hssttpsdl :;.>-,-r; ".: sic . .": Fond jeontemplatiQU oft approaches-' hdvej • •> "<¦ '> " To pay the tribBie:of ^a filent tear." ^ , . . ¦"•ih' Maughold church-yard are interred k'4 perfons be tween 71 ahd'Soybars' old; 'l2-be'tweehov6l arid ;9'6!; n. The quarterjands, called the . Grange, formerly 'belonged to the abbot, arid are fubject to pay n feveral cuftoms; boon days,* &G. d-i'-i" <& ¦ >'-..> tt,-....i:i ••. • The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity; is eighty- fix feet hrfig and twenty btoadi ei- The chancel is flagged, floored, and carpeted within the rails. An ancient ftone figure is placed over thechancel winddw on the outfide. The roof is covered and plaifteted. k> v , _' • •¦?'¦•. ..!,. jb- Vicdrs; Revv RachvFdx. .Samuel Robinfon. . r: Robert Parr, vicarigtneral, 1713. cfJerhy Allen, 1728. William Bridfbn, iyjd: -"j Matthias Curghey; v. g1. 1761. John Gill, 17.73. Rev. Thomas Corieti, the prefent vicar. * ¦!« - The chuirch-to&.'chattceTj were rehuilr and enlarged in 1704; .Bifhop WJlfonfigave 5L to ity attd: 3I. towards the fchopl-houfe ; dhd. in 1 722; with Dr. "Crow, biihop of 1, \ ;- ¦.:.. . -¦'-:¦ ¦-,; ,:¦.'.'.!¦-¦'.-: i ,..;.. fit" ,, > ,../ ,.< ,."" ....,.:.....-, i .;;:;ii^ :.[i \ ..:' z:><. : v.; * Boon days were formerly due for the repair of the garrifons, ftr tfjp 'Kqnburahit lafe'ty of Hie' ifland. "-' ' THE ISLE OF MAN* f-% Clefne, added- a fmall eftate of his tOftheigleBe, to-wMcli^ is joined. , Ift ,1.715 he gave 5I. tp the fehpol-houfe at Sulby; . The- old iregifter, mutilated arid • : imperfejS^ begins 1636. From ,1696 to 1 7 1 5 inclufive, the baptifms were 754 ; 1 64 couples wefie married ; arid 436 perfons were buried. .From 1755 to 1774 inclufive, . another period of twenty years, 851 were baptised; 222 couples were married; and. 554 peffons buried. , In the, old regifter is this curious memo randum ; " That one Rob. Cottier's wife was delivered of a child, which was baptized Upon the. Monday, and foe came to the church tb be churched upon the WedrtefHay next after; and after returning home fhe fell in. labour, and w&s delivered of: another child; and came to be> churched upon the Saturday next -lifter, in the fame WBek: churched twice in one week. This! teftify to he trutrii Edward Crow; minifter." .. '•:>:'¦ " In 1667, Sdmuel Garrett, fon toi Donald a Vallan* fe- hHOe the. Burne, buried 15th of May: myigodfon, (and a flout blade) yet died. Samuel Robihfon being then minifter. ^ Inscribed 07i, Brass in the Chancel. Here lyeth interred the body of Mrs. Margeret, daughter to Peter Hey wood, of Heywood in the countie of Lancafterj efq; by his. wife Alice, daughter of John Greenhalgh, of Brannelfom, in the fame countie, efq; arid governor of this Ifle of Man many yeares ; ftie was wife" to Captain John Garrett; of Sulby, dridjleft iffue by hirasfoefonne^nd tbJee daughters, yiz. John, MaryvAlicbJ. and Elizabeth, and died Jan. i'6j and buried the 19th , A. D:;r66a. . . .0,;. .:; :r.r On a fiat Brass Plate, annexed. ,; The above John-Garr^^Cipt^n^of^ulby, died 16.92, aged>",,29 Je?r.?!i ajf^,,his;^randaughtetrin-law, .Elizabeth, ;f;T ' .xA;uil fo :-fo,L' rui-.v b^.r dauSKt£L IJ6 A TOUR THROUGH daughter^ ^Villiam Sutcliffe, of' Stansfield-hall within Halifax; vicarage, by his wife Grace Gibfon, of ' Briggroydy wife of John Garrett, the fifth of Balabroy, died 13th of March, 1745,' aged 40 years; With -four of her children; who died; in their minority, and left iflue; Elizabeth, Ann, Margaret; Philip^ William, Evan and Alice. . •> . 1. Arms; (colours not marked) a bend between bend^ lets, charged with three rofes ; impaling, a bend engrailed charged with three. bugle-horns. 2. A field, crofs faltire, charged with a helmet; finifter, as dexter above. John Curgheyj of Colbane, buried Feb. 8th, 1699; alfo Jane his wife, buried May 15, 17)13. In.lhe. churchward are, among other, flat tombs to the hiernoryof John Hodflion,! of- Witton in Durham, who died Feb. 18, 1729, aged 34. : James Chriftian, of Lon don, who died July 5th, 1778, aged 74. Jofeph Bacon; of Staward in Northumberland, efq; Who died May 14, 1728, aged 34. , And on a tomb inelofed within iron rails, "Jean Kirkpatrick, wife of John Kirkpatrick,. merchant in Ram fay, who died Oct. 26, 1766, aged 24: to whofe memory this ftone, as a proof of the fincereft Yegard, and a facred tribute toiworth and innocence, is erected by her difconfo- late hufoahdi -¦ -f'li;u--- -;: ¦ -- : -"-'¦ -^ '-'¦'"- -- " Quam venienfe die, quam decedente requiro " Et meam moriens reminifcer uxorem." Iri Lezayre church -yard are buried thirty-two perfons be tween 7 1, and 80 yeare old; feven between 81 and 88; and one of 96. A poor woman is now Jiving in the parifh who. has entered her 100th year. i ,, Godred, the fon of Olave, endowed a fmall plantation of the Qftertiari ^ef^r'lv^bnls'af-'Mirercoge, which is conjectured fob'eRal!ambria'ihthis'parifo; they ^sere afte^ wards incorporated with thofe of Rufhen, The THE ISLE* OF MAN. 171 The chain of mountains that run throughthisparifh ap pear like* cliffs, which formerly the fea approached. Mr. WanfeyV of Salifbury, inhis Tour through America,* men- dons ajVery fimilar range at Newhaven, that indicate the like appearance, though now about three miles from the fhore. In this bleft ifle, ", Or chance, or iriduftry, in after-tirnes " May great improvements make; but (hort, as yet, " Of due perfection-." -«^<6J>59*>>i^ KIRK BRIDE. Kirk Bride is about five miles from , Ramfay,, the moft porthem parifh in the ifland ; it is a fmall parifh bounded by the, fea op the north and eaft, by Andreas pn the weft, and Lezayre on the, fouth. The point of Ayre-f is in this parifh, being an: extenfive, bed of fand, at the end of which the cur rents meeting form a large vortex. , Near the road is a: high mount furrounded with ftones, called Croncyebollen, probably a, fepulchral tumulus, wherc "' " In his narrow houfe ' " Some warrior -deeps below.:; his gallant deeds; , . 'f Haply at many: a folemn feftival ¦ , ' ; ^ - ?'¦ The bard has harp'd; but perifh'd is the fong •" Of praife, as, o'er thefe bleak and barren downs f The wincj that paffes> and is heard no more.'' , . SoUTHEY. . . ...Cl :j. . .,.. i'<{ . * Journal o'f an excurfion to the United States of North- America in 1794, Svo.a^d nmo. Eafton, Salifbury, 1737. f Ahrc, Irifh, fignifying thin, or (hallow, as applied to water. . ..._. Thefe^ 172 A TOUR THROUGH -uT-hefe^ with the white -ftone-'onthe-hili-near the more, on the "eftaie-ofShelag, tindlthei ruins- bf a "chapel, are worthy of notice, -i The monuments of the Danes are diftinguifh- able fromthe tumuli of the. Romansby having a broader bafis in proportion to their height; but it does not appear that the Romans were ever in this ifland. There are no poor, properly fpeaking, in the parifh,; but the poor's fund, which is about 20I. principal money, was moftly called on by wandering paupers* though within thefe two years fome regulations have been made to confine the pooc to their own limits., .-- ~ . , ; . ; . .... The parochial library is large, and a catalogue of it is de livered to every minifter as they fucceed in all the parifhes. Thefe, and parochial or petty fchools, are eftablifhed through out the iflandi The libraries were introduced by Bifhop Wilfon arid Dr. Bray* fey whofe advice and affiftarice this excellent ihftitution .Was undertaken. « Dr. Bray died in 1729', he cbntiriued as long as he lifted to fupply books. Law's Chaftia'ri Perfection was fupplMby Mr. S. Hales, of Teddington, near Hampton-Court, wfiOgave sol. worth of boofef'fo? general dtftributibn among the poor. The fchools Were 'eftablifhed ;&y Biihop Wilfon; ShSI in ifqe- Lady Elizabeth Haftings left toi them 2ol..pgfl atin,-£ot-&m. — The creek *cMbrir'Pvrti-Cranfla3 is in this parhhr *' By creek is not to be underfoS8&$! w&tt is its effence iri the Ian-, guage and-'feftfebf the 'Cuftorri-Hbufe department, viz. having officers fta'ribftefl to pi^fortrt certain branches of bu finefs." It h'as tvfo fairs, one in February, the other iri May ; but as moft" fairs depend on moveable feafts, they may not $ways fall in the fame iflbhn%rprecnely. ~r * "Th6 cfewelv'is fifty-four feet by 4ixtse», fefvfoga few fmall windows' oh bne'fid'e!'phiy, With ahuriceiled roof, and a fWaBbfeflffung oh/the uuffofe;' it ts badly feated: 'ifidfcd many THE JSLEvOE MANi 173 many churches on the north fide. are, as to feats, &c. much in want of renovation; on the fouth fide, they arc iri a better general ftate. The prefent copper pans, for colJeCtions fo, the church, appear by the infcriptijgnA to hayp been the rector's gift in 1786. . . The fchool-houfe adjoins die church-yard, the matter's falary is about 4I. Britifh oeraqnum. Opposite the church gate is an ancient crofs'.' ."""''" The gallery has a handfome painted front, with Bifhop Hyldefley's arms on ita arj.4 ip[cribedi 'VT^gaJjery erected -A. D. 1772, by favour, of the. Rtf Rev. ]yi, ,,$.,jijr" Over the chancel door are,^r$j.pf pur Art) pajepts jrj ffope. On an upright ftone in the chancel is an inscription t.o-Dpi(othea Curghey, wife to Matthias Curghey, reCtor of this parifh, buried April 20, 1749, aged 79, fM,. CoW$c« Jjurled Jan. 3r» 1754, aged 85- '...; ! . - -:¦.. •';.-. :. There is no houfe feel@rigiflg to the felforv, and Only about an acre pf -fcjeb& for a garden,. The pr#f^ reCjor, who is alfo vicar-general, farms Ballakilly eftate. Former reclors :- — '• Parr, were fucceeded by the; Rev.: John Curghey, Rev. Mr./'Mill- rea, Rev. Philip M$ore, arid the Rev. Wni. " Chicks, the prefent reCtor,'and-vicai>-generaL - The regifter begins in 1693, In 1791 the Duke of Athol gave 5I. Britifh to the poo? of this parifh, in memory Pf the Dutchefs deceafed. In Bride church-yard are the: ages of 73, 74,77^7'9,-and 84. ' * The cheaphefs and readirieis pf accefs to ftone, induce the natives to honour the afhes of the dead. As my friend, John Edward Wright, of America, fat pn an uninTcribed ftone, he wrote extempore, with his pencil the following ftanzas, 174 A TOUR. THROUGH ftanzas, which, from the circumftance and fpot, claim, an introduction in this place:— ..;,'.. Lines on seeing a plain uninscribed Stone-in Kirk-Bride Church-Yard. < Here lies, whom no fuperb infcriptions grace, No fplendid pile, no rriaufoleum near, To fpeak thefe afhes born of noble race : Th' unletter'd ftone fhews humble riaturf here. Sleep on, departed manes, quiet reft— Heav'n's gates receive alike the poor and great'!. '¦ While here oh earth, if Virtue fway'd thy breaft,' ' Where'er thou art, the bleft rewards await. " " Perhaps thou wert fome faithful hpneft foul, «'« Though poverty and pain had forely prefs'di- o" Perhaps no fordid views could e'er cbntroul, Or keep thy little from a friend diftrefs'd. '""¦" "¦ If fo, though here thy duft unnotic'd lies, Thy foul inheav'nly fplendpr.fits-.enthron'd ; The foft'ring choirs. (hall greet thee in the fides, ' Nor afk thee once what riches thou haft own'd* Perhaps thou wert fome genius unreveal'd, , , Some Newtpn, or fome fav'rite of the mufe: Alas !¦ that cruel penury conceal'd, And meanly conquer'd, nature's noble views;. Perhaps thoU wert an unknown wanderer here, Whom better lot had mark'd in earlier years ; But adverfe foftunegave a ftrok'e fevere, And left thee to depart ii^ beggar's tears. Too TH£ ISLE 0F-11I* 175 Too ofttis merit's fate to be diftrefs'd! ' But ftill thou would -ft not unlamented die j The tender heart would pity as it pafs'd; ¦ v Thefeeling mufe would turn and heave a figh!, »::' . In remote parifhes like Bride, the fervice is generally in th« Manks language; in^fome, EngUflvonce a month; in others alternately. Banns are feldorrl publifhed in thra "ifland, the Bifhop having the power to grant fpecianieerieesj-'whichin England is confined to the fee of Canterbury. A fpecial licence does not Coft 40s. and the 'common licence is only five (hillings. By the returns of inhabitants, it will be feen that the in- creafe here is lefs than in any other parifh, at the feveral re fpeCtive periods. The population of the ifland iri general is exceffive:tf is no uncommon thing for fourteen to be grown up in one family. But in general, except the eldeft fon arid daughter, the whole are obliged to quit the ifland to gain their bread, and feldom return. This accounts, partly, for the difproportions between thebaptifmsatid burials* The churches* in general, are in a remote corner of the parifh; Bride being a fmalf parifh feels thisinconvenience as little as any. This church overlooks the point of Ayre, and commands a full view of the noble extenfive bay of Ramfay, and of the fine bold fhore from that town and harb&Ur' to the promon tory of Maughold. The porpoife is often feen playing in this bay.- The monfter from which we " now turn with loathing, was eaten with avidity by the old Englifh epicure.* *- See .Warner's Antiquitates Culinarke, or curious ;tra£ts rela.-.. ting to ancient cookery, 4to, Blamire, 1791. -!- .:. .: " Ancient Jf6 A TOUR, 1SHR0UOH Ancient cookery exhaufted all its gr^in mixing fau§e§,fQr . this deleCtable^ rrtor.ceau ; smlftbere ;wa$; no entertainment of any magnificence un}i}' thefixte^nth, century, at which the -porpoife, 'either, bodily or m junks* did nor find a reJjpeCt- > able place." " 5i "; !; '" KIRK ANDREAS Is. 3 F^ty andi.archdeaponryi^bjjuiid^.by the fea pn the north, Lezayre, on the fonth, B^dftft* the. eaf]^ afld Jut-bjf This parifli is flat and devoid of mountains, as. are rnoft of the northern parifhes beyond the .range pf promontories deferibed as. running thrqugh Lezayre., uThi.s flat tract affords much and excellent peafetmd jgtermed djft Qwnitgkp \®ttoy-&m®i: and the fine marl found fo this parifh, the crops are rendef$4:firfn-and good, .v'vrvh • io r. qi; n.von Of emiqfiiiesc.htthis pari(hp;«efay be mentioned the an cient fort behind Mr. Chriftjan/s, ; at BaJlacfcurry;? which, ¦' '¦¦¦ ' 1''": '¦¦¦' ¦'" ¦''"'' '«>¦* ¦ " - ""- '¦¦¦--."Tri ¦:• * This noble old camp Mr. Towntey thinks is not older than, CharJes I. This :cgiaje$ure he grounds, on having f^en fevered, fimilar to this formed during the civil war ; he therefore thinks it was formed when the troops of the Lord Protector Cromwell were in the ifland.- It is the moft complete of any of that time, and t&s fituation ^ a moft eligible one, upon a fjnall natural emi nence, in a very level diftrict. There are four ftqbie ba-ftion? jat the four corne/s, and it is furrounded with a wet fpffe of very ample dimenfions. The internal fquare for the troops to encamp* upon, is a fine level piece of ground, funkfo much below the baftions and curtains as effectually to fecure the froops within from any ontwju-4 attack by-fire-arms. Thefe is not the leaft breach in the works. Ballachurry is a vefy pretty fituation, rendered pleafant by fome charming plantations -made by Mr. Chriftian within memory, and which thrive well. .;;?s ~.-:~;,'M '.,. -n-y'di:. .. . ,>i .... ¦':-i'. though TH* ISLB OP MAN* ty/ though mdderri corripared1 with the" varietf s : Druldieal ahd Danifh remafos, may yet beefteetried a great euriofity. Be". fides this, there are, the Cabal Druaig, the. remains of an old chapel^ and feveral tumuli. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew, arid is one of the oldeft in the. ifland ; fifty-three feet in length^ -and) eighteen. in. width. ' The infide is too primitive for modem comfort, and the whole too ruinous, for its liberal endowments. We truft the Archdeacon, Lord George, and his Grace. the Duke, will gratify the parifnioners' ih the very necefiary erection of a new temple of worfhip. The parochial fchool is (imported out, of Queen. Ann's bounties, and the imprtopriatefund. .: Lanemore and Rue Point creeks are in this;parifh. There are .two poor fundB,'.amounting bbrfctctaiboutfzol. per annum. One for diftreffed farmers; tbe> other for the parifh pooh.. ... ,: The regifter begins- 1666. A N. B. at the beginning. of it fays, " The old church regiftry is much defaced, torn, and abufed', which was m— by 'Sir John Huddleftone, cu rate of Kirk Andrea^ under iheRev...jQrtvaiten-Ifletcherv' archdeacon of this ifle, and chaplain to the Ear! of Derby; which is tranfcribed and writ in this new Eegifty,1- as far aS' the names could be read and underftood (beginning in 16&&, after the reftoration of the royai family, fix years) by me Charles Wattfewortfo" ¦ c— , ..: In Andreas church-yard are interred fix perfons between' 72 and 75.; and fouitperfons between 82 and 88;; Here is a handfome tomb to the memory of the Rev. , Wm. Mylrea, archdeacon of thisr ifley. and . rector of this parifh 27 years. He died Sept. 1 4, 1 787, aged 65. Alfo-Mrs. Elinor' Mylrea, alias Gell, his wife, who died Feb. 6, 1795, aged- 66-. Another to Efther Lace, daughter of D. Lace, efq; n „ deemfter. 178 A TOUR THROUpG-H deemfter;. Floruit amabilis et.amata,. et deflecta, evanujt.. June 22,-17,7,8, aged 24. ,-Quli. Cubbon, pofuit, , ,-, .-;,,-;,•, A List of Archdeacons .since the Restoration. J .,.i)..... .',,..)' ,;,., lhj. .'1 > ill . :¦ 1640. -Rev.'.Sarnuel Rutter,cha.plaiji;to the Earl .of Derby whilft:.iath,e-Jfle,of Man; aod.at-the: reftoration' was con fecrated Biihop pf this ifle,. who, died 16.6,24 and was:huried in the cathedral of , Peele- Caftle, with, his epitaph- bri. a brafs rilate. *..-.: ,. ¦.;-¦_. .. :., J ,r.. ... r.;[y. , . :\s \'inl'" ;7 vR'ey. Jonathan' Fletcher, from 1660' to 1669^ chaplain to the Earl of Derby, died .at Knawlefly. He; built the old brick.houfe'in Kirk dien reCtor of Kirk Bride, being vicar alfo:of— Ormfkiik; who refigned tbe,acchdeasfidittgr'iand.reCtor(hip.in 1699. ¦• .••R^v.nChriftE'Macfden,;:frqm'.i669 to 1701; he perlfhed on the fandy Banks near Liverpool,. Oct. 4,. 170T, in a vio- Iqiit. (form?:'- ..'"vvj; '.? Rev. Samuel Wattleworth, from 1703110 1718; who died the 20th of December, and was buried in the cathedral in-Peel^Caftle, the 23d. He was firft vicar of Kirk Michael, frpm ,1.6.712 to. 167.6; thence removed to. Kirk Patrick and German, till 1704.' He died aged 72 — was regifter from' 1&84 to-1694.; and vicar-general from that time to 1703, when! he, was fworn archdeacon, and inducted the third of June.- > „ .Ji A ;.,.L v.;.: ,.'.... nti ,,'. —_'¦'] ' ¦ • * S-ee P.-19, and Kirk German. THE ISLE OF MAN. \^ . Rev. Robert Horrobin, curate of Warrington, ihduofod OCt. 1 3, 1719. He-refigned the archdeaconry by ari"fo> ftrument under his own hand, to Thomas Lord Bifhop pf this, Ifle,„about the 16th of May 172-7,- arid removed tod living in Dorfetfliire; near the Iflarid of Portland, viz. to Winfrith, and died, 1729; See further "particulars of him in the Rev. C. Cruttwe-U's Life of -Bifhdp Wilfon. Rev. John Kippax fucceeded, who was chaplain to James Earl of Derby. 1760. Rev,- William Mylrea, who died in 1787. 1787. Right Hon. and Rev. Lord George Murray. The duty done by the Rev. Daniel Mylrea, fon of the above William ' Mylrea. . :-_ Kirk Andreas has 58. quarterlands ;* moft other parifhes run from 30 to 45; Jurbv indeed has. but .1 Sf. A quar terland is a well-known. divifion of land in the ifland of in determinate value and extent, worth from iol. to 125I. per annum. The number of what are termed. intacks is efti mated, including 79 ;mill rents, at 2700. A quarterland pays 2s. and intacks 6d. in lieu of carriage < fervices, ; which were ancient fervices. required by the Lord for building or repairing forts,- houfes, &c. But they have fallen into difufe fince 1773, when people began to refufe payment ; and fince the' death of Governor Wood, about 1777, it does not ap pear to have been demanded* There is an ancient monument in the church-yard, with this defcription ; decy phered and tranflated by Mr. Beauford. ?5 Sona Ulf fui. Svaudti.raifti eras dono Aftirarin finiue Cunna fina^_ -.an . ". The. fon of Ulf of the Swedti (or Swedes) erected this crofs to the warrior Afterarin the fon of Cunnu. See letter iv, page 46, on this head. n 2 Many l£© X A: TOUR. THROUGH Many bairojwsrare feen round this parilh^ Mr. Chaloner, who opened one, found fourteen rotten tirns or earthen pptjSj, with dieir mouths downward; with one neater than die others, in a bed pf white fand, containing a few brkde" bpnes, (as having paffed the fire) but no afhes left difcerni- ble. Some of thefe are environed with great ftones placed end-ways in the earth; and fome of the urns are found in- clofed in ftone coffins, -,.-.• The the -Isle of man-. 183 The poof's fund is -28K principal. Old -Mrs; Chriftian left a fpot of meadow land which brings- in about ios. per annum. When the prefent vicar fucceeded to the church (upwards of fifty years ago !) there were no donations, an haven channel on the left, , and a cultivated arable country to the right. Barrows are obfervable, in. a perfect ftate, as you pafs the lofty beach to LanemoPr. Hiftory informs us that the inhabitants of the North-jide confpired againft the government of Macmarus, and were headed by Earl Outher; a battle enfued, which was fought at a place called Stantway, in St. Patrick's; ,Iflp,, (Jurby) the generals were flain, but the. North-fide- people gained -the victory, until the females of the Soutlvfide came with great ardour to the affiftance of their hufbands, and turned the fate of' the battle; for which, to this day, they enjoy half their hufbarid's eftates during their widowhood, while the North- fide ladies have only a third. In Jurby church-yard are buried feven perfons between 73 and 78 years of age, one of 84, and one of 88. On a flat Tomb is this Inscription. " Exu. dom. Gul. Tear Ludimagift.de Peel. Sepul. Jul. 5, 1 756, an. set. 74. Epit. loco Gul. Tear, author, fcripfb. Mors T$4 A. TOUR THROUGH Mors heu Lpsna- q.uidem tamen eft fertiffifna vita . Janua felicjs denique laeta piis Me. licet hicretinent pro tempore yincula mortis. Spes tamen in Chrifto non .mpritura manet In Chrifti meritis patrifq; dementis ampre Efthumilis mea (pes hac moriorque fide. Tu Deus ipfe meum cor fejs fecretaq; cordis iObfcure cui non abdita. quaque patent Hie nihil optari dignum eft heu ! omnia vana. Ergo beata y.eni, vanaque, yita vade." This church-yard, from its elevated fituation, affords, a moft delightful profpect of land and fea ; but this plea- fure.is confiderably damped by the contemplation of the mouldering heaps around. In fpite of our beft hopes, we are often weak enough to be mortified at this temporary fufpenfion .of confefoufnefs, this requifite annihilation of mortality. '- " Oh! what is death! 'tis life's laft fhore, " Whert vanities are' vain no more, *' Where' all purfuits their goal obtain,' *' Arid life is ali retouch'd again. '* Where in their bright fefult fhall rife •" Thoughts, -virtues, friendfliips, griefs, and joys." Notwithftanding this ifland is fo populous, you WfouJ.d not jhink fo from viewing the -country from an elevation; thick as the cottages are, they do not ftrike the eye; the walls of the huts are feldom above feven feet high, cpmpofed generally offers of 'earth, and the roofs thatched with ftraw, which foon becomes of a murky hue. This ftraw is bound down with ftraw-ropes drawn over nett-like, and faftened to pegs in ,tlie walls; this mode of thatching requires often to - be renewed. , / The THE ISLE OF MAN. ^85 5C, The lowet clafs of inhabitants live on meal of oats, and barley, and fifli and potatoes, with .a, fmall portion of flefh meat. Their, breakfaft is of; meal, pottage and milk; their dinner is of potatoes and fifh; their fupper pottage, or potatoes and milk."* Their bread is made, pf barley and oatmeal, and ts! formed:into very thin round cakes like pancakes. Among the moft necefiary improvements wanting with us, and particularlyin the ifland, is the improvement of cot tage building, and the building of proper and convenient houfes. and offices, for. finall farmers; thefe objects are elo quently enforced iri the eighth volume of the Bath Society's Papers, by the worthy and fenfible fecretary. What can be expected to iflue from the prefent miferable huts, but ", indolence, dejection, difeafe, and indelicacy, which are their infeparable attendants." I cannot prevail on myfelf to mention circumftances, which, here and in England, have fallen Under my notice, on the latter head particularly. Having mentioned the quantity of peat in this parifh, the following fentiments, on peat bogs, and on the caufes which produce treesj &c under them, may ba acceptable. Mr. Wilfiams§ fays " all the bogs are poft-diluvian; many of them are of recent formation, and eountlefs num bers, are now growing arid forming more expeditioufly than * Agricultural Report by Mr. B . Quayle, 4*0. See Sir F. Morton Eden's work on the " State of the- Poor," for a curious account of the various kinds of bread ufed by the labouring claffes, vol. i. 4-to. p. 510, &c. 1797. § See Williams on Minerals, a vols. 8vo. Dr. Anderfon's Trea- tife 011 Peat Mofs, and his letter to Mr. Matthews, in the Bath Society's Papers, vol. viii. 1796. Whitehurft on the Formation of Earth, 4to. 1792. And Maton's Weftern Tour, 2 vols. 8vo. >797;. vol. ii. p. 115. is I8'6 a'TOUR THROUGH rs' generally imagined. 'Decayed and putrified vegetables are the" origin' and' (natter of which peatbogs are produced; and riiefe mav,'rand 'do increafe and accumulate mfeveral fituat'ions, and- from fuhdry caufes." ' - Dr. Anderfon puts" a query, whether peat-rriofs is not a living plant, and not a congeries of decayed plants in a par'- ticular ftate of prefervation. Mr. Whitehurft fuppofes trees 'found "in peat bogs, to have been thrown down from the higher grounds by fome violent deluge, and the remains of animals, &c. to have been victims to the fame caufe; fmce no other caufe known could have feparated trees' from the earth with all their fibrous roots,- and have "afTerribled them thus together. - '¦• Mr. Maton thinks " that they owe their interment to a common caufe, which caufe muft have been a fudden fub- fidehce of ground. He thinks it can fcarcely admit a doubt, that the fat clayey foil is- the effeCt of a continued decompo- fition of vegetable matter, (this decompofition being occa fioned moftly by the frequent floods which fub'merge vege tation in low grounds, often for a corifiderable time) and that it is increafed befides by the muddy depofit left by ftfeams that Iffue from the fides of the neighbouring hills." In' converfati'oh with Mr. Smith, of Monckton- Combe near Bath, in 1 798, on this fubject, he obferved, that though thofe foffil trees might not grow on theJpot which they now occupy, yet recourfe need not, be had to any extraordinary deluge, or revolution of nature, to have placed them thus^ for from a recent account of a bog in Ireland, we may juftly conclude that they were brought thither by the bog itfelf, wli'rch, by the caufes fpccified by Mr. Whitehurft, originally accumulated on higher ground to an fofupportable mafs, and by its own gravity broke down and fwept away fuch trees, buildings, and other things as flood in the way, cp- THE ISLE OF MAN.* 18*7 vering the ploughed lands,'. which'Mr; W. defcrifjes; the watery part having run off,' thebogfubfided, and formed the peat ground which now- forrounds them. After all, there is- ftill fomething myfteribus about thefe bogs and their contents, confidering all -circurfiftances and every combination under which they appear, and there feems room for ftill farther conjectures, and perhaps more fatis- faCtory cbnciufions on the fubject. ¦ BALLAUGH Is bounded by the fea, Jurby, Lezayre, arid Kirk Michael, and a fmall.-portipn of Braddon. There are two principal dreams in this parifh, one of which is croffed by a bridge of one .arch, at the village of Balaff. '¦¦. ........ It has a publick brewery, and feveral hat manufactories, but thefe are not made of any degree, of finenefs. It fur- nilhes from, fifteen to twenty herring boats, and has. a creek called Ballakeage. Marie being fcarce, lime, for manure is made from the pebbles on the (here. It has two corn mills. Flax is grown in. fmall quantities; and I, obferve here and in Jurby, rye, arid that fort of barley called Beare.* Its population has increafed above 200 in number, from the return made in 1726 to the laft in 1792, which then was 10 1 5 fouls. * This is a variety of barley with fquare heads,- and four rows of grain, called by old Gerard Beare barley, or barley big, and Hordeum.polyjiichum.'-vernum, to diftinguifh it from the common kind, which he Ityles hordeum dyjlichon. ' It fuits barren lands, and ripens early, which recommends its ufe in rainy climates. Pennant's ToUr in Scotland, 4W. 1776. ?88 A TOUR THROUGH Thefe accounts are made-up with regularity and exact- nefs in general, though Governor Shaw conceives that, from fome fuperftitious motive, the people do not like to give in the whole amount of their families. The returns run in thisftyle: "To his Excellency Governor in chief, Capt.- General, Chancellor and Guardian of the Spiritualities of and within the faid Ifle, &c." Ballaugh is a reCtory, and there is only one other, viz. Bride. The glebe is extenfive. Nearly 500I. has been laid out in the purchafe of land for the poor. The rnountains of Slieu-volley, part of Slieu-curn, Crongan, and Slieudoo, are in tins parifh. For a rural retired fcene, the Gill,* and Carmiddle eftate, may be explored ; the little fpot of Carlene mill, with its winding rivulet and circular recefs, was fhewn me by the agreeable Mrs. L — 11 — n, and the lively Mifs G. — Thus accompanied, " meditation here might think down hours to moments." The church' dedicated to St. Mary is 79 feet long, and 10 broad, covered, as moft are, with flate, of which there is plenty on the ifland. A ftone pillar in the- fhape of a crofs, with a .crofs cut thereon in relief, is without the church-yard on a mount. , In 1717 Bifhop Wilfon laid the foundation of an addi tional twenty- one feet to the church. Dr. Walker, the * A gill, comb, glen, or dingle, (for it is the fame thing) is a gradually increafing, or gently declining hollow upon the furface of the earth, the fides gradually Hoping down towards the middle part. They vary in fize from a few hundred yards in length, and one in breadth, to three or four miles in length, one in breadth, and 4 or 500 yards in depth. They are probably formed by currents of water defcending from the upper lands.— —-Vide Calcott on the Deluge, 8vo, 1768, id edition, p. 263. then THE ISLE VOtf MAN. 189; then rector, and the bifhop, engaging to finifh it; the parifh fubfcribed 12I. towards it.. The fteeple, which is the moft ornamental of any, they were at the fole expence. of. The Bifhop gave 5I. towards the petty fchool and houfe for the mafter. "The infcription on Dr. Walker's tomb, in the chancel is worn out. The defk arid pulpit were the gift of the Rev. Mr. Wilks, and the Bifhop, in 1772. The fide galleries were the benefactionof Mrs. Efther Hyldefley, the bifhop's fifter. , The regifter begins in 1598; the former rectors were the Rev. Mr. Logie, Dr. Walker, and Mr. Bridefon^. who was twenty-one years reCtor, died in 1750, aged 78, and was' buried in the chancel; Rev. P. Moore, inducted Jtrly 17.5.1. M. Curghey, 1771. Rev. James Wilks, who was fuc ceeded in 1777 by the prefent reCtor, the Rev. D. Gelling. ; The reCtory is pleafantly fituated near the church, and was built in Dr. Walker's time, as appears by an infcrip*.: tion over the door. In . the church-yard are tombs to the memory of the Rev. James Wilks, rector of this parifh; who was buried June 1,, 1777, aged 58. To the Rev. Matthias Curghey, vicar7general, and rector of this parifh, " An humble, meek, pacific man; a found divine, learned, and exemplary; with the Rev. P. Moore, aflbciate revifor of the Manks fcriptures, tranflated by the clergy of this ifle, a great, arduous, and original work." Daniel Mylrea, efq; deemfter, Feb. 25, 1775, aged 58. There is alfo a flat ftone to the memory of Thomas Corlett, mariner, fon of Wm. Corlett, and Ellin Cry, who died in Jamaica, and left theintereft of 30CI. to the poor of this parifh for ever. Other infcriptions denote the burial of nine perfons be tween 72 and 80; and three perfons between 82 and 89 years of age, Whilft igo A TOUR THROUGH" Whilft .'contemplating in the church-yard, the following fentirnerits of the pious Harvey occupied my mind. " Among thefe confufed relkks of humanity, there are/ without doubt, pefforis"; of contrary interefts "and- contra dictory fentiments. But .death has laid his hand on the contending parties, and brought all their differenees to an amicable concliifion. Here enetfties, fworn enemies, dwell togethef.ifrunity. They drop::every embittered thought, and forget that they once were foes. Perhaps thofe who', while they?lived, ftood in irreconcileable variance, here fall into mutual, embraces, and -even incorporate with each other in the. grave. O! that. we may learn from thefe friendly afhes, not to perpetuate- the memory of injuries; not to foment the fever of refentment; nor cherifh the tur bulence of paflion. That there may be as little animofity in the land of the living; as there is in the congregation of the dead!"- ,;- I was arouzed from thefe reflections by the appearance of the worthy ¦ reCtor and his amiable daughter, who kindly invited me to partake of an elegant repaft prepared to cele brate the nuptials of Mifs K. B. and Mr. P. of White haven, whofe happinefs I have fince witneffed in England— to employ the language of a friend-*- " 0 ever bleft and happy pair ! , " Amidft an infant beauteous race ; " Long may you live devoid of care, " And every virtue in them trace. - Here I met with my earlieft Manks friend Mr. J. Gen- fog, with whom, and Mr. Haskins, I had made, in 1796, a tour on foot from London to Richmond, Windfor, Oxford, Blenheim, and 5 towe. ' The THE- ISLE- OB MAN. 191 The parochial fchool has. upwards of one hundred fcho- lars, ¦ .There is a refpeCtableinn.in this parifh, on the gireat, road between Kirk-Michael and Ramfay,;: BaflaUgh iseight miles, from Ramfay, -two. from Jujby, and two from Bi fhop's,- court, ... .;,. , , .. ,; ,,'.:,; iHats are made here, the.. -wool befog .admirably adapted for. that, purpofe. Someithqufands pf.:rabbit-fkins ufed-tp be. exported annually. ',.,;;.¦: ,!;..','. I have ftated. the, populatipn of this parifh: in.. page 7.7;, at a general mufter of the whole ifland fo ,1667, there appeared. tOi.be only '253 1. men.. . ' -' ' in- --- i -, c.i In fo fmall a diftriCt as this ifland, divided into fo many parifhes, it can hardly be expected that, each divifion fhould ' take a different or a, very peculiar caft, as.: tg.foil and general produce ; wherefore obfervation once made,:ne6d not be parr ticularly repeated. . On the fouth fide of ¦ the ifland there is fome good pafture land, but npt to be.compared witivthe- quantity and quality of that ..to be met with in the very, ex?. tenfive range of grafs grounds in Ballaugh, Jurby, Kirk- Bride, Andreas, and Lezayre, on the' north fide. In ftrolling over the fields I found. the. common liquorice? root of fome flavour, Penfively wandering on its fandy beach, my eyes were directed toward Ireland, by the finking of the golden fun in the weftern waves; the horizon was moft delightfully iHur*. minated — its1 fplendid rays rather folicited than repelled the tender organs of vifion, and harmonized with all nature around me. " If, however, (fays Mr. Gilpin) the admirer of nature can turn his amufemenfs' to a higher purpofe; if its great fcenes can infoire him with religious awe; or its tranquil fceries with that complacency of. mind which is fo nearly allied to benevolence, it is fo much the better." , ., e Mrs. 192 A TOUR THROUGH Mrs. B. my fellow-traveller, had juft failed hence for mat country — as her hiftory is melancholy, but interefting, I will here introduce it briefly. ¦ / ;- - In the veffel which conveyed me to the' ifland Was a riio- deff, pleafing lady ; handfome; rather young, but fomething wild in her afpeCt;' forrow, it Was plain; had made its- in roads deep in her mind; though the plumpnefs of a WaU^ tifully cinctured (kin had not fympathized with it. The1 winds put us back; "politenefs naturally induced me fo ac company her to the inn, and then a fhort ftay brought us- to converfe on perfonal topics. Aloney- unattended, wirh> out any- thing hut an extra 'chemife and a 'pair of ftockings — my companion was induced to prefs an explanation for fo hazardous and unpleafant a fituation,' I was then in formed that fhe had wandered from London, fome hundred miles to the diftant port we then were at; that fhe had no other object but to feek a more hofpitable (hore, and un known, wander atriongft its rocks ; that the artifices of her relations had fecluded her from the world, for the fake of her property, and had brought her to a lunatic sffylum in town, from whence fhe juft then had efcaped, and wander ing over fields and roads, had at length followed the of% which had brought her to that place. Her conduct was modeft and decent; and commanded^ refpeCt; her mind was much hurt, but her perfon lovely;- even in grief — " The hues of blifs more brightly glow, ' " Chaftis'd by fabler tints of woe; " And, blepded, form with artful ftrife, " The ftrength and harmony of life," Gisay. She gave me her addrefs ere I parted with her, and in return I wrote mine in her pocket-book.-— In the courfe of the voyage, which we refumed, we each (for feveral ladies were on THE -ISLE OF MAN. *93 on board) produced our mental food, and alternately read, told riddles, fung, or chatted. Her ftock, I recollect, was but fcanty, ' The Economy of Human Life;' and, On a Card, fome curious ideas, neatly printed, ' on the Dignity * of_the foul, arifing from. its Immortality,' which from their firigularity I here tranfcribe. . . " The eternal falvation of one foul is of greater import ance, and big with greater events, than the -temporal falva tion of a whole kingdom,, though it were for the fpace of ten thoufand ages; becaufe there will come, up a point, an inftantin.eternity, when that one foul fhall have exifted as many^ages, ;as all the individuals of a whole kingdom, ringed in clofe focceffion, will} in; the. whole, have exifted- in the fpace- of -ten thoufand ages ; therefore one foul is capable of a larger, (hare of happinefs or mifery, throughout, an endlefs eternity, (for that will ftill be before it) more than a whole kingdom is capable of in ten thoufand ages. R. P. 1797." I blufh to fay I was rifibly inclined, on hearing thefe pofi- tions, butt checked myfelf, and difcovered more force in them than, the apparently, cpnfufe.d ftylefeemed to indicate. Whenilanded, unintroduced, and alone, fhe wandered for fome weeks, unimpeachable in her conduct, exciting in fome alternate companion, and fufpiciqn — rill, tired with impertinent jealoufies, fhe embarked for Ireland.; fince which, I have learnt nothing more of this, unfortunate foli- tary being; with whofe fate I fympathize; arid fend to heaven a fervent wifh for her' future protection and happinefs. ,1 could only weep oyer, her diftreffes, for,,alas ! my cir- eumftarices are not fo often in union with my, feelings as I could wifh : — But, "¦ Gbd tempers the wind to thejhorn lamb ;" and fbme;kind angel will, I hope, proteCt her.* * This formed part of an effay, No. z2, in a periodical work, inti tled the " Scribbler," printed in " the Salifbury Newlpaper," 1797, o under I94 A TOUR THROUGH KIRK MICHAEL. This parifh has one village, of its name, through which the great tfoad paffes from Peel to Ramfay, which has an excellent fon; but it is moft. diftinguifhed.for.its. being the refidence of the bifhop : Bifhop's-Court.is on the road fide, -about one mile from the village. His Lordfhip's domain is extenfive, between 300and 4C0 acres. The houfe has been * modernized' by the prefent bifhop,: who has expended, much money to render it comfortable. Though not very ftriking -in appearance, it poffeffes every .defirable appendage; the garden and_walksare pleating, and the detached offices con venient; > a; corn-mill. ferves J the family, and the tenants -around. There is a fmall chapel annexed to the houfe,* which has alarge filver flagon, -value aboqt 2oL:given indie under the fignature of Eugenius, which alfo diftinguifhed my other paper's in that claflical feries. * A convocation of the bifhop and clergy of the diocefe is, by the ftatute of 1704, ordered to be held yearly at the Bifhop's chapel, on Thurfday in Whitfun week, i£his.Lordlhip be in the ifland, or as foqn as convenient after his return. See Stat. Laws, p. tzi, 8vo. 1797. In a late novel we have this defcription of the Bifhop's houfe, which, however, is too highly coloured :¦ " At length we reached a row of venerable trees leading to the Bifhop's-Palace, which is a (lately- edifice? '.and commands from one part a picturefque view of great extent and beauty. Its lofty walls are richly clothed with the choked fruit trees, in their moft luxuriant ftate ; with a grotto, cafcade, and beautiful flower garden, furrounded by an extenfive moat, which, while it renders the breezes cool and refrefhing, adds to the beauty of the enchanting fcene; there is likewife a beautiful pavillion, with a fmall lawn fringed with plantations,. Here we fpent a moft delightful hour, in all the fweets of rural" innocence which fuch a delightful fituation could infpire.and departed with the utmoft regret." Clara Lenox, vol. ii. p. 86. laft THE ISLE OF MAN. I95 laft century by Dr. Thurfcrofs, prehendary of York, for the ufe of the Bifhop's chapel fucceffively, until Peel cathe dral fhould be in a condition to receive it. In a fpot not particularly diftinguifhed either for good foil (being moftly a light fand) or for luxuriancy of verdure, the umbrageous (hades and pleafant walks around the pa lace receive a double effeCt, which is farther enhanced by the hofpitality of its owners. Under the bifhop are an archdeacon, two vicars-general, and an epifcopal regifter; who with the prelate compofe the Confiftqry Court. The arms of the biflioprick are, on three afcents the Virgin Mary, her arms extended between two pillars ; on the dexter, a church; in bafe, the ancient arms of Man. In the grounds are two pofts, erected in 1760 by the then bifhop, to commemorate the aCtion of Thurot off this coaft; the bifhop having thence feen the conteft, placed thefe to (hew in what direction off ftiore it took place. Two prints, 24 by 15, of this celebrated action, were painted by R. Wright, and engraved by Millar and Goldat, reprefenting the aCtion, and the (hips in Ramfay bay after wards. The one dedicated to Capt. Elliot, the other to the merchants of Liverpool. Capt. Elliot gained a complete victory; and Thurot, foe French Admiral, was killed in the aCtion: his fhip, of 32 guns and 220 men, taking Thurot's, of 50 guns and 600 men; this fhip was 17b" feet in length. Capt. Clements, in the Pallas of 36 guns, took the La Terpfichore, Capt. Defravendois, of 26 guns. And Capt. Loggie, in the Brilliant of 36 guns, took La Blonde, Capt. Kayce, qf 36 guns and 490 men. Thurot's body was thrown overboard, probably by his own order, and fometime afterwards was fuppofed to have floated afhore on the coaft of Scotland, and was privately interred there. 0 2 The I96 A' TOUR THROUGH The fea bounds this- parilh 'on the weft;' Ballaugh on the north-eaft; Braddon on the eaft; and' German on the fouth-weft. Kirk Michael is fix miles from Peel the coaft road, but neaf eleven the beft toad. ' Thepleafant village of Glen- wiiiiari is only a few minutes walk from the inn. In this, 'as in almoft every parifh, the veftiges of the Druids, the Danes, &c. are obfervable. It has flate and ftone quarries." The Gill of Luririon is pleafirigV'arid'a cafcade on the old Caftletown road may attract notice as you pafs it. It is about one mile and a half from Kirk Michael. The coaft fupplies lavcr, Which th'ey'term fiugganeyarid another fea weed' in ufe is called dullijh, fomewhat of the like kind ;- fiamphire is alfo plenty, but whether of the rock or the golden fort, I had no means of informing rriyielf. Within thefe laft two years, the fand bank has foffeted confiderably from' the incroachmenf s of the high tides. It has three creeks;' Glentrunk,'.GlenwilIian, and Glen- belagawri. '''" "" "" '¦ :"J"J ¦' There are no records' to' pfove when the church was built. Jt is 60 feet by 16," with a fide-aifle 22 feet long; neat within^' and having only one irifc'riptibn in the chancel, to M. Chriftiah Norris, arid'h'dr five children, 6th" of July, 1695. The fchool-houfe is 28 feet by 12. The regifte'r begins in 161 1 ; but is a copy of the origi nal, which, it-fays, "being abufed in the parliament's'time, was forced to 'be tranfcribed by, Mr. Henry Norris, vicar, 1712." Donations to the poor are about 861i principal. The chalice was given by the late Rev.' Dr. Wilfon, to" the place of his nativity, 1755. ¦ The vicar* r;e-houfe is pleafantly fituated, with improved gardens, and a glebe of about eighteen acres. In THE ISLE OF MAN. J 97 In the church-yard, on a. plain tomb, railed in with iron, is the following infcription: — " Sleeping in Jefys: here lieth the bodyof Thomas Wilfon,. D. D. Lord Bifhop of this Ifle, who died March 7th, 1755, aged 93, in the 58th year of his confocration. This monument was ereCted by his fon Thomas Wilfon, D.D. a. native of this parifh, who, in obedience to the exprefs command of his worthy father, declines giving him the character he fojuftly de fended. Let this ifland fpeak the reft." On the fides the fame repeated. Alfo, the following infcriptions on plain tomb-ftones: Elizabeth Hyldefley, alias Stoker, wife of Bp. Hyldefley, died Feb. 27th, 1763. Mark H. Lord fii'hop, died Dec. 2d, 1772, in the 17th year of his confecratiop, aged 74. Philip Moore, Norway merchant, and- citizen of Lon-r don, died at Bifhop's-cpurt, Bee. 20, 1728, aged 78.1 Hie Jacet Rev. Cleve Quayle, eccles. hujus diaconqs primordio vitae fperabilimus pietatis primitias promittens, Juvenis infigniter modeftus et dpcijis integer vitae fqelerifq; purus omnibus Carus nobis, cilius Deo aliter vifum fibi firii- cius Xto. quiefcit curia efpifcopi ob. Jan. 19, 1751. An. 21 nat. Pater maerens pofuit veniet iterum qui me in lucem reponet dies. Alfo, a head-ftone ereCted by Bifhop Wilfon, for John Riddyard, who died at Bifhpp's-court, April 21ft, 1738, aged 47; whpfe mafter hath here given this teftimony of his integrity, that in twenty year$ foryice he neyer found caufe' to charge him with eye-fervice, fraud, or injuftice. There are alfo many tombs to the name of Cannell, which is an ancient one in the ifland. In this church-yard, are alfo buried nineteen perfons be tween 7,1 and 80; and eleven between 80 and 90. -Former IQ'8 A TOUR THROUGH Former Vicars. 1670, Sir Hugh Cannell, buried February 25th. Sir Edward NelfPn, buried Oaober 26th, 1685. Rev, Henry Nbrris, vicar thirty-one years, buried January 25th, 1717. Rev, John Allen, bqried July 12th, 1735. Rev. John Woods, vicar- general;- removed to German, and buried at Peel,' 1739. Revv Edward Moore, vicar-general, buried 1 749. Rev. James Wilks, vicar-general, promoted to Bal laugh in 1 772,' when the prefent vicar* the Rev. John Crellin, fucceeded, who is alfo epifcopal regifter. An Extract from the Registry. " The Right Rev. Father in God, Dr. Thomas Wilfon, Lord Bifhop of Sodor and Man, buried near the eaft gable of the church, March nth, 1755. His Lordfhip's grave, agreeably to directions left previous to his death, was made hine feet deep, and walled round with brick. ' " This great judge and' eminent pattern of primitive chriftianity, was born December 20th, 1663, at Burton, near Chefter, in which city he had his fchool education, and from thence was fent. to the Uniyerfity at Dublin, where he took the degree of B. A.; and in 1686, was ordained deacon by the Bifhop of Kildare. He continued in Ireland to ferve the church, till the difturbance in King James's reign drove him into England, where he became curate to his uncle, the Rev. Dr. Sherlock, reCtor of Wfowick.* After fome years he was tutor to Lord Strange, fon of the Earl of Derby; and afterwards was promoted by the fajd Earl to the bifhopr rick of Sodor and Man. * Winwick, near Warrington in Lancafhire, is the richeft recTory in England, being worth near 3000L per annum ! ! ! in the gift of the Earl of Derby. "He THE ISLE OF MAN. 1 99 " He was confecrated by Doctor Sharp, archbifhop ,of York, affifted by the Bifhops of Chefter and Norwich, in the Savoy Church, London, on the 16th of January, 1697,- and on the 3d of March following was created D. D. in a full congregation at Oxford, He immediately , paffed over to the Ifle of Man, where he refided moftly ever fince in great reputation and honour for his piety, exemplary life, hofpitality, and extenfive charity. " He fat in this fee upwards of half a century, and died univerfaily lamented, in the 58th year of his confecration, and 92d of his age."' In addition to what has been noticed in page 114, fee alfo Dr. Knox's Winter Evenings, vol. i. for an. Effay on Bifhop Wilfon and his writings. Dr. Knpx condemns the Bifhop's zealrfor ecclefiaftical difcipline as intemperate, and of a feverity rather wonderful in a man of his exemplary benevolence. Offenders of all conditions in his time, who did not fubmit to church cenfures, were imprifoned or excommu nicated, &c. I have already mentioned that at prefent fpi ritual, authority is exercifed with lenity and judgment; though the obliging offenders to conviCt or acquit themfelves on their own oath, where there is no other evidence, is ftill practifed. Mr. Townley tells us that he found " outfide the church yard a venerable ftone, difplaying, in the rude chiffel work, the figure of fome mighty Danifh chief in complete fteel. I inftaritly (fays he) refcued the warrior from his ignomini ous concealment, bringing him to a fafe place, where I could eafily on my return take him into my carriage, and convey him to more refpeCiable quarters. It had received fome little injury. The figure is in complete armour, with a helmet on, and a tremendous broad-fword, fufpended by ftraps from 2O0 A TOUR THROUGH from afudded belt, to make him invulnerable at all points ; his arms uplifted, with the fingers griped in a folernn, (im plicating; pofture." A ftone crofs in the church-yard has this infcription — Uleifan-funtre gudean nom ' ileari Reinti crund: fon sfstr mel muru furitre miis tolirluf cetlan cone in e. Which Mr. Beauford,' of Ireland,' tranflates : *' We-. hope, to live through the holy name of God, dnd by means of the. mysterious tree on' which, his fonfuffered an > evil death, out -f arrows foall be wajhed away." The other Rurtick* monument before the church-yard, has the following infcription on its edges : * In the ioth and nth centuries, the Runick gave way to the Roman character; but is faid to be ftill retained among the moun taineers of one province of Sweden. It is a term generally applied- to the language and letters of the ancient Goths, Danes, and other northern nations-. 7See new edition of Chamhers's Diet, which has a column on this word. Monument o e»' ft •J? < § -*s o '&. w a en K W s JUALFTR : ! UJNR : THURULF ! : EIN ! : RAUTHA : RI ! TI! KRU ! THONO : AFT : FRITHU : DUTHUR : ! JAO -+ THUS TRANSLATED BI SIR JOHN PRESTWICH, BART. Walter, fon ofThurulf, a knight right valiant, Lord of Frithu, the Father, Jefus Chrift. S fc~> Mr. Beiuford reads it— Ivalfir funr Dural fas. fins randa rifticrus Aftrinde mudur fins. For. the fins of Ivalfir the fon of Dural, this crofs was ereiled by his mother Aftride. 14 Who fhall decide when.Doctors difagree?" 202 A TOUR THROUGH This crofs is ornamented with various -devices; the in fcriptions are in a mixture of foe Teutonic and Celtic lan guages. It was' evidently erected by the Danes during their refidence here, after their' converfion to chriftianity, fome- time in the iofh or nth century. At the top of a fimilar ftone in Braddoh, there were fome characters which Mr. Beauford did not underfland.*. " Thus o'er fbmC antique ruin, time*defac'd, " The fons of fcieuce oft delight to ftray, " To trace the infcription on the defert wafte, " And pierce time's dark veil by its luci4 ray, " But vain die labours- of th' enquiring fage, " If thence the mind no moral ttuth fublimes; " Nor learns from Heroe's of a diftant age, " To love their virtues, and to fhun their crimes.'' , LovEti.f . This parifh has fome ancient barrows; the Karn Viae! is compofed of fmall ftones heaped together. Its mountains are principally, Slieau Dhoo; i.e. The Black Mountain, from its gloomy or dark appearance. Slieau ny Fraghmnry i. er The Blay-Berry Mountain, from the abundance of them that grow there. Tn Vaaiyil; the Englifh of it uncertain. S art all; in Englirh^' Swrtfidd, which is the name of the worfhipful Deemfter Lace's eftate in Jurby, or St. Pa trick's Ifle. , I believe I may alfo add Slieumenagh, and Slieucurn. * Vide Cough's edit. Camden, vol. iii. p. 704.. -)- Poems by Lovell and Southcy, 8vo. 1795. Dilly. Cronk- THE ISLE OF MAN. 203 Cronk-Urley; i. e. Mount-Eagle, is a hill in this parifh, where the legiflature ufed to meet. In 1422, a court was held on it; in the records it is termed the Hill of Re- neurling. Rye is grown by the vicar; the turnip tillage has been found to anfwer. " In the north-fide of the ifland, there have been attempts made in this cultivation. At Bifhop's-Court the fteward has raifed large, crops of turnips for fome years paft, where near forty head of black cattle, and above a hundred fheep, have been fed for near five months, viz. from October to March, principally Upon turnips ; but even upon a fmallef fcale, feveral individuals have raifed very good crops. Mr. Gelling,' rector of Ballaugh, Mr. Regifter Crellin, and Deemfter Crellin, at Orrifdale, haye tried the turnips with great fuccefs."* Yew trees, which l are fo generally found in our church yards, are not to be found in thofe of Man. This tree is thus prettily addreffed by a late pedeftrian traveller through Wales :§ ;.;- — Et toi, trifle cypres, fidele ami des morts protecleur de leur cendres Ta tige chere au cceur meiancholique et tendre, Laiffe la joie au mirthe et la gloire au laurier: Tu nes point l'arbre heureux de 1'amant, du guerrier, Je. le fajs, mais ton deuil compatit a nos peines. I am not certain whether the extenfive and deep glen, that lies between Kjrk Michael and St, John's, is in this * Manks Mercury, (ignature Mannan, 1793. § A Tour through part of South- Wales, by a pedeftrian ; with views defigned and etched by the author, 4-to. London, Baylis, 1797. No author's name; but I underftand they are by Monf. Fenhouet, an ingenious emigrant. parifh 204 A TOUR THROUGH parifh or not; it is a curious fequeftered fpot, and if.adorned with trees and cottages, would have a, piClufefque effeCt. - In the prefoytery of Lochmabfn, in Scotland, is a parifh of a fimilar name, for an ingenious account of which, by Rev. Dr. Burgefs, the minifter, fee Sinclair's Statiftical ac count of Scotland, vol. i. 8vo. 1791. That this ifland was once the feat of learning, we know from the circumftance. of the early Princes of Scotland fend 7 ing hither their fons for education; and the concurrent tef timony of the Saxon, Scots, and Irifh writers, (hew that it was at that period famous for wife and virtuous, prelates. Its monks were learned, and in the early lift of bifhops we notice natives ; but in the biographical annals, I recolleCt no particularly eminent Mankfmen. that have flourifhed: nor has traditionary reports left any fuch on. my memory; but to the honour of this parifh, it may be mentioned, that it gave birth to Dr. Thomas Wilfon. James Earl of Derby mentions, in a difcourfe to his fon, a grand defign he intended to have executed here, that of eftablifhing a Univerfiry, but it has not been effeCted. KIRK THE ISLE Of 'MAN; 205 , T)ie ?fllps of Reel Cathedral, 1.798. : kirk German: This parifh includes many important; objects, as Peel town and the Caftle, St. John's Chapelj. the ancient Mount of Tynwald, the ruins of St. German's; cathedral, &c. It is bounded by Patrick, M.arown, Kirk.Michael, and the fea. Eeary is a low mountain, under Greba, in this parifh. Oppofite Peel is a flate quarry under <-the/ hill, called the Horfe. It has. quarries of grit and rag ftone, a flax-mill, five corn-mills, a tuck-mill, a bleaching ground, and a beating engine,, for calendering, &c. erected about feven years fince by Mr. Crane, of Ballahawro, ;andis the only one in the ifland. It is contiguous to St. John's. A river, after a courfe of nine mijes, and receiving another ftream about St. John's^ falls into the fea at Peel. A peculiar white marl is dug here, in which the fkeletons of elks oxfeghs, have been occafionally difcovered.* The * The fegh is now loft in Britain, 'and in Europe, but it is fubfifting in the Moofe of America; it was often hunted- in the.&refts of.Devon. Brandling horns of a-moft enormous fize have been found in Devonfhire, (,-snd in other parts of England and in Ireland) the relicks of this enormous 1 ace of deer, Polwhele, Hift. Views, p. 204, 206 A TOUR THROUGH horns meafure' nine feet from tip to tip ; and from the other bones, conjecture is warranted to fuppofe the original ani mal muft have been feventeen feet high. One of thefe horns was politely fhewn me by the Rev. Mn Corlett. It is remarkable, thefe bones have been found both in Ireland and here, and refpeCtively in a bed of white marl. By an account taken a few years ago, the number, of in habited houfes in the parifh were 253, but they are in- creafed fince. A Census takenin February lt84, of the Inhabitants of this Parish, Peel -town included, by order of Governor Smith. Married couples in Peel - .2I0\7cS fouls Ditto in the parifh - -' 169 J Widowers in Peel - - - 17 Ditto in the parifh - - - '*3 Widows in Peel - - - - 76 Ditto in the parifh - - 42 Adult fingle men in Peel - - 104 Ditto in the parifh - - - 108 Adult fingle women in Peel - - 132 Ditto in the parifh - - - 145 Males under fixteen in Peel - - 192 Males ditto in the parifh - - 31 3 Females under fixteen in the parifh - 364 Ditto ditto in Peel - - 207 2471 fouls. By a Census taken in H92. Adults in town and parifh - - 1659 Non-adults in town and parifh - 846 Total 2505 THE -ISLE OF MAN. 20? , Former Vicars. 1 741, The Rev. Mr. Curghey. Rev. iMr. "Woods, vicar-general. Rev. Mr. Crane. Rev. Mr. Wilks. Rev. Mr. Chriftian. Rev. Mr. Brew; 1761, Rev. Henry Cor lett, the prefent vicar. Donations to the poor about iol. per annum. The viearage-houfe is -inconveniently fituated two miles kfrom the town. The regifter begins 1667. "The prefent regifter is kept peculiarly regular and neat. In Kirk German church-yard; are interred eight perfons between 72 and 80; fix between 'So. and 87; and two of 97 years pf age. --The church, iriwhieh the fervice is alternately performed in Manks and Englifh, is dedicated to St. Peter; is in the form of a crofs, with fide galleries for the publick fcholars, and a deep one over the weft wing. Its length is 27 yards,- the crofs 19 yards-two feet; before 1766, or thereabouts, Englifh fervice was performed only once a month. It is. fituated in Peel town, and is neatly -pewed, with carpeting within the communion rails. One of the ancient low arches in the church was removed for the prefent gallery. -There are two infcriptions in the chancel, one to Capt. SyL Radcliffe, of .Knoclcaloe, buried Dec. 30,- 1731, aged 78; and the other to Eliz. Parr, alias Qualtraugh, wife to Capt. Caefar Parr, buried Feb, 20, 1766, aged 29.— -A fmall ancient font. Infcription in the church : John Leece, of Ballaleece, died at Knockaloe in Kirk Patrick, July 5th, 1784, aged 27. The.plate belonging to the communion fervice is fixhand- fome pieces. 1. A flagon, with, St. Peter handfomely en graved thereon. 2. A verytarge chalice, plated, given by Lady Moore. 3. A tall chalice infcribed, " Ecclefifo Ca- thedralis Sti. Germani Peelas, in infula Monse facro ufui D. D. D. Suus humilis minifter Henricus Bridgeman, 1670." N. B. This 2o8 A TOUR THROUGH N. B. This belonged to the cathedral. 4. A filver c'upv infcribed,. " The gift of John Crane, renewed, by Captain Philip Cowell." 5. Another cup, filver, probably. from the old cathedral; 6. A -patten* infcribed, ." Ex dono;Henrici Bridgeman, Epifc. Monenfis, Eccles. St. Germani;" with the bifhops arms, ten balls lion paffant fo chief . ; The.cuftom-houfe eftablifhment at, Peel confifts of two riding officers,. orie of whom colletts the duties; boatmen, tidefmen, &c. ; ,.,,..,; rs.< . Peel has t.Wo publick breweries, a. free grammar- fchool, a ^mathematical fcrjop], , an , Englifh charity.-fchool, and, orie capital red-herring houfe. It has five fairs.; -May -I ft, and 18th; July 5th; Nov. ift, and 1 Sth; at St.- John's,, one March 28th, and July 26th,. held at Peelcrofs in the towri. Peel; is a pleafant fmall town, (formerly called'; Holm;) with a fafe- quay, .The ruins of the caftle are. extenfive, and are feparated from the town by a narrow channel, which .you crofs in a boat .in a few minutes;, but the wayiacrofs the ifthmus, or caufeway, round by the mill, is long and difagreeahle.: On the top of the horfe hill is a noble and fubljme view. Its furface, wheri. I vifitedit (in July) juft previous to the herring fifhery, was for acres covered with the wide-fpread nets of the ;fifherrr>eri, in order to prepare them for the enfuing feafon. ¦ 1 : . ¦ . The Harbour Is in a very negleCted ftate j a pier, which was built befo'fe 1765, is indrely;carried away, and none but very fmall veffels can now come in. From its fituation, if this harbour were repaired, it might" be of infinitefervice to theifland and the Britifh trade. Boats termed daggans, •which fail fwift, attend the fifli- ing veffels to buy fifh, 2nd then go immediately to the beft markets THE ISLE OF MAN* 209 markets in England, Scotland, or Ireland. I faw feven off Peel in July. A plan of Peel-caftle, with the harbour and depth of water at fpringitides, furveyed by R. Wilfon in 179 1, is annexed to the Commiflioners' Report. The river Neb falls into the fea here. The rocks- on the fhore are romantick, and from their irregular (hapes, may fupply the imagination with refemblances of animated nature. To the northward is a black towering rock called the Stack. The Bay Is fpaciousj abounding with fifh, of which the red cod is an exquifite delicacy. At the north boundary of Peel bay, are feveral grotefque and romantick caverns. The fouthern ex tremity of the bay is formed by Peel ifle, an extenfive and lofty rock, encircled by the fea; on which is the fine ruin of Peel caftle, and the cathedral of Sri German. This fpot is ftill fenced round with a wall, &c. befides which are fcat- tered about the ruins of St. Patrick's church, the armoury, the Lord's manfion, and the Epifcopal palace. I fhall proceed to fpeak on thefe from the beft informa tion I can procure* Peel Castle Is fituated on a fmall ifland, containing about foul; or five acres, feparated from the main land and town by a narrow channel of the feai It was one of the lord's garrifons. It is exprefsly named in the original grant of Henry IV. to the Stanley family, and is frequently mentioned in the acts of Tynwald. The cathedral church of the diocefe, fallen into dilapidation, ftands on this ifland. It was dedicated to St. German. Since the reyeftment, more than one bifhop has been inftalled in the choir, which was the laft part of the edifice preferved from decay. The inhabitants of the town p claim 2IO - A TOUR THROUGH claim a right of interment, and many have been buried within the walls. The ecclefiaftical prifon is a fubterraneous vault under the cathedral, but has not been ufed for many years. Since 1 765, the officers of the crown have taken pofleflion of this; ifland, which has been held as a perquifite by the governor. It was occupied by the high-bailiff of Peel, who ufed it as a fheep-walk, and annually paid a lamb, or fome fmall confideration, to the governor by way of ac knowledgment. The caftle was a common prifon for the ifland, and fun- dry noble perfons have been here perpetually imprifoned : Elinor Cobham, Dutchefs of Gloucefter, was perpetually baniflied in 1 9 Henry VI. anno 1440. Before this; Thomas Earl of Warwick was imprifoned here by Richard II. In the Exchequer book for 1583, the Court is mentioned to have been held at Holene town, near Peel. In 1648, a fort was begun to be built near the town of Peel, oppofite. the caftle, by the advice of Sir Arth. Afhton, to flop any relief that might be brought by boats, in cafe the caftle fhould either rebel or be befieged. " Peel caftle (fays Grofe, .Antiq. Eng. vol. iv.) (lands on a fmall rocky ifland about 100 yards- north of the town. The channel, which divides it from the main land, at high water is very deep ; but when the tide^is out, is fcarcely mid- leg deep, being only feparated by a little rivulet which runs from Kirk German mountains. The entrance into this ifland is on the fouth-fide, where a flight of ftone fteps, now nearly demolifhed, though ftrongly cramped with iron, come over the rocks to the water's edge; and turning to the left, others lead through a gate- way in the fide of a fquare tower into the caftle. Adjoining to this tower is a ftrong Vaulted guard -room. "The THE ISLE OF MANv 21 * " The walls inclofe an irregular polygon, whofe area con tains about two acres. They are flanked with towers, and are remarkably rough, being built with a coarfe grey ftone, but cdigned and faced in many parts with a red grit found in the neighbourhood. It is highly probable this ifland has been fortified in fome manner ever fince the churches were built ; but the prefent works are faid, by Bifliop Wilfon, to have been conftructed by Thomas Earl of Derby* who fifft encompaffed it with a wall, probably about the year 1500. " Here are the remains of two churches, one dedicated to St. Patrick, the era of its erection unknown; the other called St. German's, or the cathedral, conftruCted about the year 1245. Jt is built in the form of a crofs, with a coarfe grey ftone; but the angles, window cafes, and arches, are coigned and formed with a ftone found hereabouts, almoft as red as brick. This mixture of colours has a pleating effect, and gives a richnefs and variety to the building. The cathedral is now extremely ruinous, much of it unroofed, and the. remainder fo much out of repair, that it would not be fafe for a congregation to affemble in fo The eaftern part of it was [when Mr. Grofe faw it] covered and fhut up, in which were then feats and a pulpit; this was the epifco- pal cemetery, and the inhabitants ftill bury within and about its walls s [.See Vignette i] " Beneath the eafternmoft part of it is the ecclefiaftical prifon. The defcent into this vault is by eighteen fteps j and the roof is vaulted by thirteen ribs, forming pointed arches, and fupported by as many (hort femi-hexagonal pilaftersyonly twenty-one inches above ground. The bot tom of this place is extremely rough; and in the north -weft corner is a well, or fpring, which muft have added greatly to the natural danipnefs of the place, to which there is no other air or light, but what is admitted through a fmall win dow at the eaft end. " About 212 A TOUR THROUGH " About the middle of the area, a little, to the north of the churches of St. Patrick and German, is a fquare pyra- midical mount of earth terminating obtufely. Each of its fides faces one of the cardinal points of the compafs, and meafures about 70 yards. Time and weather have rounded off its angles; but on a careful obfervation it will be found to have been originally of the figure here defcribed. For what ufe this mount was intended may not he eafy to de termine. Perhaps from this eminence the commanding officer harangued his garrifon, and diftributed his orders ; or elfe it may have been the burial-place of fome great per- fonage fo very early times.; tumuli of this kind not being uncommon in the ifland." On a head-ftone in the cathedral is an infcription to the memory of Capt. Anderfon, of the Lark, of Whitehaven, aged 43, who was wrecked near this place with his fon William, and four men, Feb. 1,1791. Alfo others tp Capt. Murray, Mrs. Jane Wattleworth, Charles Wattleworth, and Mrs. Maddrell. Among the infcriptions: in the cathedral, was the follow ing Angular one, on a brafs plate, over the tomb of Bifhop Rutter, written by himfejf; the plate-was a few years fince ftolen and carried away™»4t k fuppofed by fome cafual vifi- tors; fuch a daring and criminal act ought to meet with a very fevere punifhment. " In hac dorno, quam a vermiculis " Mu,tuo accepi confratribus meis; " Sub fpe refurreCtionis ad Vjtam, " Jaceo Sam1, permiflionp divina " Epifcopus hujus Infulae: Sifte, le&or, " Vide ac ride, palatium Epifcopi ! " Ob. 30mo. die Menfis Maii, l6§3." The THE ISLE OF MAN. 213 The cathedral is about one hundred and ten feet long, and feventy feet the crofs. The Tynwald* mount has a pretty appearance from the road, on the fide of which it is fituated, about three miles from Peel, in the Way from Douglas* It is here that all the new laws are promulgated annually in great ftate. It was formerly walled round, with two gates. [See page 144J It forms a pyramid of three circles, regularly advanced three feet above each other to the top, where there is room enough for the principal officers to ftand under a canopy, A wide grafs walk joins it to St. John's chapel. The loweft circle is about eighty yards round ; the fmalleft about twenty-one feet round. [See the next page.] , St. John's chapel has been lately rebuilt, it is a fmall neat building in the form of a crofs. It has no pews, being only ufed occafionally, when the Rev. Mr. Corlett does the duty. Henry Byron, a man of great prudence and feverity, who was Lieut. -Governor in 1428, regulated many publick abufes in the ftate, and convened the people at the Tynwald in 1429, when the law for ending controverfies by prowefs was, among other matters, abolifhed by univerfal confent. Whether he had obferved difcontents in the manner of eleCting their reprefentativeS, or thought it for the honour and inte/eft of his Lord to have the ancient legiflative power reftored, we know not; but it appears that he called an other affembly the next year,' and ordered fix men to be cho fen out of every fheading, by the whole body of the people, out of whom he elected four ; the fix fheadings are therefore reprefented by twenty-four perfons denominated Keys.§ * A parifh in Dumfries bears this name ; for an account of which fee Sir John Sinclair's Statistical account of Scotland, vol. i. 8vo. § See Letter xii. and Sacheverell's account of Man, i2mo. 1702, ,214 A TOUR THROUGH The annexed drawing reprefents the Tynwald Mount, with a horfe lanketted.* The view of the cathedral at the head of this chapter, and of the Fort in the title-page, were drawn by Mr. Haughton, jun, of Liverpool, who was in the ifland when I was there : they are engraved on wood by Anderfon, of London. It was in.fhis parifh that I met with Mr. W. R. Holden, of Birmingham, who had been making a tour of the ifland, and with whom I afterwards fpent many focial moments ; as alfo with Mr. Carruthers, of Liverpool, with whom I enjoyed .fome pleafant excurfions, and by whom I was obliged with the feveral drawings from whence the engra* yings are taken. During my tranfient vifit, the vicar obligingly pointed out every object worthy of notice, and from him, as well as from the clergy in general, I received more politenefs than perhaps, as an abfolute ftranger, I had any right to expect. THE TYNWALD MOUNT. See page 52 . KIRK THE ISLE OF MAN. 215 KIRK PATRICK. The origin of the name is evidendy from St. Patrick, who, though a native of Scotland, was adored here, and whofe memory the piety and reverence of his countrymen honoured with the confecration of feveral of their churches.* This parifh, in the vicinity of Peel, is bounded by. Ger man on the N. ; by Marown on the N. E. ; Malew on the S. W. ; and by the Irifh fea on the W. It was united to German until 17 14; when the feparation took place, the prefent church of St. Patrick was built on the ruins of an old Roman-catholick chapel, and has a very neat appearance. The rivulet that empties itfelf into Peel harbour rifes by different branches in this parifh; and Glenmoai rivulet falls into the fea, four miles below Peel, at a creek of that name. Niarble is a creek or inlet in this parifh. The mountains are, Dauby, Shlewhallan, part of South Barrule, Kion-flue, and part of Afchalogdn. In this parifh are, a bleaching-houfe and flax-mill belong ing to Mr. Thomas Shimmin, and two corn-mills. The roads from Peel to the end of Dauby, arid from Mullin-a- chley to Peel, pafs through this pariflv The lead mines at Fox-Dale afford rich and abundant ore; they are near South-Barrule, and belong to the Duke of Athol; near them is a beautiful cafcade. Trials have been made for coal, but hitherto without fuccefs. There is a bridge of one bold arch over the river, between Peel and Kirk Patrick. The foil is a gravelly loam, and pretty fertile; it yields good crops when manured with lime or marl. Red clay marl abounds, but the lime-ftone and * Vide Statiftical account of Scotland, by Sir John Siaclair, vol. xiii. p. 249. lime 21$ A TOUR THROUGH lime are procqred frotxi.the. foqtivfide, near Caftletown. The beft flate quarries in the ifland are iri this parifh ; and a good fifhery on its coaft for herrings and grey fifh. The lead mines afford the richeft lead ore of any in England, but have not lately been wrought. Timber thriyes here, of which BaUamoar, and the neighbourhood' of the vicarage, afford pleating fpecimens. The parifh is aboqt two miles. broad, and near ten biles inlettgth. As inftanees-of longevity; in this parifhy the prefent vicar buried in one day, a man. and- his wife, who had been three years married, one was 99 arid the other 97 years, of age. ' Here, in one year, alfo were buried five perfons, the ydurigeftof whom was 85 years of age. The barony of Bangor and Sabal, fituated in this parifh, cpnfifts of fix computed,, and feven real quarterlands^ Hk Grace the Duke of- Athol has a grant of this barony for a term of years from the crown, fourteen of which (1797) are unexpired. • The former vicars, as far as I can afcertafo, were, the Rev. Matthias Curghey ; the Rev. Robt. Radcliffe, collated in 1729, vicar-general; and the prefent Rev. Evan Chriftian, who is vicar- general, collated Oct, 18, 1769.* The vi- <;arage-houfe is pleafantly embofomed in trees, three-quar ters of a mile from the church, neaf BaUamoar, which is the grove of the ifland. In Kirk Patrick church-yard, are interred feveral perfons of the ages of 71, 73, 76, 78, 80, 87, and 90 years. The church is a heat modem building, 25 yards long and 1 9 feet broad, having a wing with a pewed gallery over it, 28 feet deep; the ceiling coved, and two.handfome feats in the chanceL in which the interment of the dead was for bidden by Bifhop Wilfon. . , * The office of vicar-general is analogous to that of Chancellor to a Bifhop in England. T late. ill. The Cloven Stones near Laxey. THE ISLE OF MAN. 217 This building was ereCted by the exertions of Bifhop Wilfon in 1710* when Capt, Silvefter Radcliffe, and his fon Cliarles Radcliffe, with the confent of their refpeCtive wives, gave part of their eftate of Knock- aly-Moor, to build the church, church-yard, vicarage-houfe, and' garden on; and the parifhioners each agreed to give every perfonal aflift- ftance. '^ The church," fays Bifhop Wilfon, " I confecrated on St. Peter's day, 1715, built new from the foundation. And befides my charge, I added 5pl. towards bettering the endowment. " 1.71 6, 1 built (fays Bp. W.) a new fchool-houfe at St. Patrick's, and recovered the glebe, which had been leafed out by Governor Ireland. " 1739, 1 gave 20I, for a glebe to Kirk Patrick and Ger man. Towards the building and endowing of St. Patrick's new church, the bifhop expended 73I. being arrears of the bifhop's revenue during the vacancy. He alfo gave out of his own private purfe, a pulpit, reading-defk, clerk's-feat, and a pew for the vicars family; as alfo the communion table, carpet, and rails. And on the day of confecration 50I. the intereft for the vicar's perpetual ufe, which, with 72I. given by his Lordfhip afterwards, was laid out on an .eftate in Kirk Patrick called Ballymore, for the perpetual life of the vicars of Kirk Patrick and German, &c." ¦«==35>*>*>s»53!=- KIRK MAROWN. This is the only inland parifh in the ifland. It forms z fort of bafon, being furrounded by hills, and bounded by * See the particulars in the aft of Tynwald, in Stat. Laws, 8vo. «?97> page 140. Braddon, 2l8 A TOUR THROUGH Braddon, St. Ann, Malew, Patrick, and German; it is fix miles from Peel, and five from Douglas. Glen-daragha ftream, which rifes in Gharth farm, after a fhort courfe falls into the Dark river. A ftratum of marl is obfervable on its banks, but little is dug. On the north- fide another fmall ftream rifes, and runs into the fame. The former affords trout in plenty. The barony of St. Trinian's, fituated in the parifhes of German and Marown, confifts of five quarterlands. This was purchafed by Mr. Quayle, together with the impropri ate tythes of Kirk Marown, in 1763, from the prefent Duke of Athol's father, in virtue of a certain indentureywr- partite of feoffment, and in conjunction with Duke James, for 500L Manks ; and Mr. Quayle holds a court for this barony. St. Trinian's, a mere ruin, is about ii mile from the prefent church, to which was annexed a glebe and church yard. It is on the road-fide from Douglas to Peel. A lead mine, probably a rich one, was once attempted in a valley near Dremelang, but was abandoned. This parifh is in the middle fheading. It may here be neceflary to ftate, that with refpeCt to its civil concerns the ifland is divided into fix fheadings, each of which has its coroner, who, in the nature of a (heriff, is intrufted with the peace of the diflriCt, fecures criminals, brings them to juftice, &c. This coroner has a deputy in each parifh, termed a lockman. The Rujlien Jheading contains Kirk Chrift Rufhen, Ar bory, and Malew. Middle Jheading, St. Ann, Marown, and Braddon, Garffjheading, Maughold, Lonan, and Conchan. The north divifion comprifes Glenfaba Jheading, contain ing Patrick and German. Michael fheading, Michael, Balaff, and Jurby. THE ISLE OF MAN. 21$ Ayre jheading, Lezayre, Andreas, and Bride,* , Here are two corn mills and a flax mill. Hazel nuts are found in the bogs ; this is Angular, as very few traces of the hazel are now to be found growing in the ifland. The mountains are, Archollagan, Greba, Sfieufchiarn, part of Argole on Lord H, Murray's eftate, Dremelang, and Lhiaght y Kinry, i.e. Kinry's Grave, he having perifhed there, through his rafh and imprudent attempt, on a very foowy day, to run from Douglas to Bifhop's-court, and back again to Douglas, ftark naked, for a triflng fum of money.— r-N. B, It was on his return from Bifhop's-court that he perifhed, and according to tradition was buried on the fpot where he died. ,_,' Extract from the regifter, 1703. Baptized Jane the daughter, of John Quillian, and Jane Brew his wife, who was 48 years of age ; and twenty years and a half married, when fhe bare this her firft child, who was baptized Jan. 17th, 1703, 1667, A child of John Lace was baptized by Edward Brew, clerk, in the abfence of the minifter, and upon ne- cefiity. — 1 662, Several buried by the clerk. Lay baptifms we find to have been permitted in England, by the prayer-books of Edward and Elizabeth, in cafes of * But by an aft of Tynwald in 1796, the common law-court, held at one particular time and place, being found inconvenient, the ifland was divided into two diftrifts, for a court to be held in each j and from thence the (headings are thus altered : Patrick, German, and Marown, form Glenfaba {heading. Maughold and Lonan, form the Garff (heading. Conchan, Braddon, and Santon, the middle fheading. The northern diftrift comprifes Michael, Ayre, and Garff ftiead- ings, the court for which is held at Ramfay. The fouthern diftrift comprifes Glenfaba, middle, and Rufhen jBieadings, the court held at Caftletown. danger. 220 A TOUfc THROUGH danger, on the fuppofed impolfibility of falvation without baptifm ; but when they had clearer notions of the facra- ments, it was refolved, in convocation 1575; that even pri vate baptifm, in cafe of rieeeflity, was only to be admini- ftered by a lawful minifter. Encyc. Brit. In 1667, on the 13th of July, herrings were fo plenty, that they fold for 6d. a maze of 500. The vicarage -houfe is in ruins near the church. The glebe about three acres r but little wheat is grown. The donations to the poor are about 1 ool. principal. Former Vicars. In 1679, the Rev. Robert Fletcher. William Bridfon. Robert Radcliffe, curate. Matthias Curghey. Philip Moore, curate. Tho. Chriftian. John Chriftian, his fon. Rev. Thomas Chriftian, his fon, the prefent vicar; the duty done by the Rev. John Bridfon. In the Church Is a paten qf filver, infcribed " Ecclefias St. Runii Man- nenfis facrum, 1759. The gift of the Rev. John Chriftian, vicar. Cup dated 1 705." The font is very large, evidently intended to immerfe children in, of a ftone not found in the ifland. Part of the porch was brought from St, Trinian's ruins. A handfome pulpit, with the legs of Man over it. A ftone to the memory of Henry, fon of John Clucas, of Balla Nicholas., " a virtuous and notable youth, acade- mick ftudent," died June 23, 1732, aged 23 years. The church meafures 60 feet by 18. In the Church-yard. A tomb in memory of the Rev. John Chriftian, of Ballnekilley, vicar of this parifh 26 years, buried Sept. 29th, 1 779, aged 51. The Rev. John Chriftian, vicar, who died Nov. 19, 1777, aged 47. Francis THE ISLE OF MAN. 221 Francis Blackmore, of Ireland, buried Sept. 25, 1734, aged 65, His fon Simon directed thefe lines to be added : " Stop, traveller, I pray; but then take heed, " You judge not hard of him, when this you read. " No debts, no laws, obliged him to fly " From the dear land of his nativity; " But worn with cares, he chofe this place to end " His days in peace, and make his God his friend." The ages of 75, 76, 79, 80, and 88, occur. Kirk Patrick abounds in fine fheep pafturage, and Ma rown has a long extended fwampy vale, which, if drained, ' might form the beft land in the ifland. KIRK BRADDON. This parifh contains the town of Douglas,* the chief port; and befides the parifh church, contains two chapels, one dedicated to St. George, the other to St. Matthew. There are five principal bridges, and one or two fmaller ones in the parifh. The two principal ftreams join before they reach Douglas, one called Awin-Glafs, the other Awin- dooh, or the black river; from hence Douglas. The name of Braddon was probably from Brandinus, the Bifhop; fome have fuppofed it from Braddon, a falmon, "from their being caught in the river. The bay, in the form of a crefcent, extends for three miles from Clayhea'd to Douglas promontory. It is an * There is' a village in Lanerkfhire in Scotland, of the name of Douglas, which has about 700 inhabitants, and fome fmall manu factures of cotton. Heron's Scot, defcribed, i2mo. 1797. afylum 222 A TOUR THROUGH afylum from the tempefts of the north-weft and fouth, but to the ftorms of the eaft it is greatly expofed. Both points prefent a dangerous and rocky fhore. A variety of fifh is here caught in great abundance. The cod are fine, the falmon fmall, but good, and plentiful in July, Aug. and Sept. A plan of Douglas harbour, taken fo 1791, is annexed to. the Commiflioners' Report, Gob- bock, or dog-fifh, is plenty, and eaten by the lower claffes. A fpa was difcovered at Ballabrooi, but becaufe of the inconvenience arifing from the refort of company, it was blocked up. The parifh church is moft pleafantly furrounded by trees, about two miles from the town, by the toad-fide lead ing to Peel, which, as well as Caftletown, is about ten miles from Douglas. The roads are good; on the latter mile- ftones are placed, the only road fo adorned. The vicarage-houfe was originally clofe by the church ; but on account of fome difputes, an act of Tynwald paffed, about 1742, which exchanged it for the ground On which the prefent houfe is erected, about three-quarters of a mile from the church. It has two fmall fields, glebe land, near it; but feveral, acres were purchafed and annexed by Bifhop Wilfon, which pay a quit-rent and other fervices to the lord. . The church was rebuilt in 1773, it has a fquare tower and two fmall bells; they baptize arid bury in St. George's chapel, and alfo marry by fpecial licence. Braddon church is neatly pewed, twenty-feven yards long, by feven broad. , " Rendered, (fays Bifhop Wilfon) flagged, and put a new eaft window to the' chancel, 1 704. 1 705, 1 gave fix pounds to Kirk Braddon vicarage-houfe. 1741, 1 gave 15I. towards building a new houfe for the vicarage. 1739,1 gave 20I. towards buying a glebe to Kirk Braddon, with 35I. of Mr. Thompfon's." In THE ISLE OF MAN. 22J In Braddon church-yard are buried feveral perfons ber tween 80 and 96 years old. On the Edge of a Stone-cross at Kirk Braddon. Durlifr nfaci rifti cms dono Aftfiac funfin frudur fun Safrfag. , For Admiral Durlifi, this crofs was erected by the fon of his brother, the fon of Safrfag. In the Church — Inscriptions. 1788, John Gelling, of Camlock, died Jan. 3, aged 86. 1785, Catharine, his wife, died Nov. 28th, aged 8r. In the Chancel. 1733, Johannes Curphey, died Oct. 6, vicar, and vicar- general, aged 76. 1700, Thomas Lowcay, died June 24th, aged 72. 1770, Lieut. Halley Borwick, commander of the cutter Chotmondeley, died April 23d, aged 56. 1 74 1, John Corris, of Douglas, 17th of May, (under the chancel.door) aged 69. In the Church-yard. I had no opportunity of taking the infcriptions in Braddon church-yard, but a particular friend favoured me with thefe. " John Tiefin, of Great Clifton in Cumberland. Infigni pietate puer, genio felici, et pro aetat. ling. Lat. Grsec. doCtus filio privigno pofuit, P. Moore." " EL S. E. Edward Arthur aet. 13. ob, 1754. Reader! art thou a parent ? Let thy heart fympathife with parents, and feel with them for the lofs of an only child — but wouldft thou know thy duty, and revere the ways of Providence in fuch difpenfations, read and confider the facred page of Wif- dom, 224 A TOUR THROUGH dom, (chap. iv. 7—14.) Go thy ways, be filent, learn fob- miffion, and adore thy Maker. Parentes mcefti pofuere." " Here lies interred, the Rev. P. Moore, forty years chaplain and fchoolmafter in this parifh; ob. 1783, set. 77. Sis tu femper felix &c. (obliterated,) " For ever may that man be bleft ) " Who never will thefe bones moleft, > " But here for ever let them reft : j 11 Till fire confume this earthly ball, " And Chrift fhall come to judge us all ! ! !" Vicars. In 1733, the Rev. John Curghey, vicar- general John Cofnaghan, vicar-general. Jofeph Cofnaghan, his fon. Thomas W. J. Woods. Julius Cofnaghan. John Moore. 1 792, the Rev. Robert Quayle, the prefent vicar. Donations about 80I. principal to the poor. For the returns of the number of inhabitants in Kirk Braddon and Douglas, fee page 77. St. Matthew's chapel, which is in the town, has a ciock. In 1708) Bifhop Wilfon confecrated this chapel at Douglas, to which he was a confiderable benefactor. " Sept. 21, 1708, I contributed (fays' Bifhop Wilfon) iol. and begged 60I. more towards the building of it." It is fmall; has one mo nument on a marble in the chancel, " Sacred to the me mory of the Rev. Philip Moore, rector of Kirk Bride, and officiating minifter of the chapel of Douglas. His educa tion was completed under the aufpices of the good Bifhop Wilfon, and he made a grateful return for this Angular ad vantage, bycontributing to the virtuous inftruction of youth j being above forty years mafter of Douglas fchool. He was likewife principally concerned in revifing the memorable tranflation of the facred fcriptures into the Manks language, for whicli, by his learning, he was eminently qualified. He was THE ISLE OF MAN. 225 was born at Douglas, Sept. 5,. 1705, and died there Jan. 22, 1783. This monument was erected, as a teftimony of friendly efteem, at the expence of the Rev: Thomas Wilfon, D. D. fon of the Bifhop, &c." Former Chaplains. The Rev. Mr. Moore, and the Rev. Mr. Quayle; the RevvMr. Stowell is the prefent chaplain, and mafter of the grammar-- fchool; the donations to which are, a houfe,and about 25I. per annum. On an eminence, weft of Douglas, is Sti -George's chapel, a large elegant modern building, erected-afew years fince by fubfcription ;* it has fpacious pews and galleries, and a handfome organ. The Rev. Mr. Chriftian is the officiating minifter for the Rev. Mr. Quayle, late vicar of Kirk Oncari. All the tomb-ftones here are of a recent date; among thofe to ftrangers, I obferved Duncan- Robertfon, efq; town- major of Hull, who died March 30, ^793, aged 50; Wm. Powel Buck, of Norwich, April i 8, 1793, aged 28. John Nichols, of Carmarthen; Aug: i 6, 1 795, aged 26. James Drake, of Loughin Ifle, Ireland, Dec; 2d, 1795, aged 54.. Jofeph Shaw, of Huddersfield, Yorkfhirej, May 29, 1 70^6, aged 47. Alexander Stuart, fon of Daniel and Mary Stuart, of Perthfhire, aged iOj Oct; 28, 1796. v Douglas contains about 900 houfes, and is a neat pleafant town^ the buildings lofty, but the ftreets narrow and clofe. The following is its cuffom-houfe eftablifhment. A re ceiver arid deputy-receiver general, collector and clerk} comptroller, fearcher, warehoufe-keeper, comptroller of ditto, riding-officer, port-gauger, tidefmen, boatmen, &c. & Cbarfe paper is manufactured in the parifh; and Douglas has fouff and tobacco factories, and a linen manufactory by * The funds were lodged with Bifhopp,-foq^haftjfpj3eae),v,.:: „ " YoUhg iaduftry i^(ick,,a>ad yixtufe dead;, '^ While, pride and- pomp fa-abfclute are grown, , Jf-.That/riendle/s m.odefty's.kick'd. put of town.." In purfuingthefe parochial (ketches, the reader will doubt- lefs have obferved that he ftasr'met with no publick'afylums for diftrcfs of aHy 'kind; the poor-have nofooufe'fofhelter them iri age \ the fick have no hbfpitals ', the' poor married woman no tender nurfes and -doCtors gratis, to relieve the pains of nature's trying moments; nor has the unfortunate fingle woman the cup of falvation and comfort held out to her when' loft or betrayed by u^iiai'ded conduct:' yet I am happy to obferve- that at Douglas and at.' Ramfay, there are clubs for mutual benefit.*' The former, which was efta- blifoed in '179b,1 had, in 179$, a cleat capital of more than 220I. The fetri'ales have no fociety of this kind. -" ' * ----- s . ¦ . '¦¥¦ - .... * " Friendly focieties eftablifh this great truth, of infinite national importance, that the people in general are competent to their cum maintenance;- the1 nation no doubt lias' faved millions, by thefe' be* neficial TfttE-ISLE OF: MAN*. 227 . Douglas- fands. afford a .fine: . ride, fljtfepdfog near two miles, terminated by romantick" rocks, down. which," in, the winter, run two .- beautiful qafcades; fhe;fea. water is pecu liarly clear, and the< fhore adapted for. bathing. .machines: the view. of the bay |s delightful, and .foe fwelling (alls^that fo often foliciit attention, break trie-fatigue which the ,eye Would ptherwifefeej fr.om the yaft. expanfe; of water. ..^ ', -Here are five herring-hpufes ; one of thefe I. was informed coft.i2ool. .:-: . ;.,.,: .;.;,, ,.,,v ,,;-. •' The herring .fifhery {fays Mr.. Aftfe) is a fountain- from whence flows great publick benefit (and private, good; imits feafon its novelty infp.kpsfen/ations of ;gfto|i}fJ3ra^nt^nd de light: {he boundlefs ocean, on which'is. difplayed the ibean-; teous fleet,' compofed of. 500 fail, fome fleering north, others fouth, eaft, and weft, all in feareh of the finny tribe,, the fea heaving gently its majeftick bofom, as .if proud of its bur- thea, and willing- -to exhibit. Mona's foduftrious fons to her, view, and toptch the -radiance of the fetting fuq,, which gi|ds eaehfail with varied rcolours ; fuch is the. evening, pro- grefs of the fleet which the gentle breeze imperceptibly deals from the fight, and^nothing is heard but the^foft murmurs of mirth, the furling of the' fails, or •mp'vemen.t of foe oars. To thofe who are in the boats, the fea appears a liquid fire*; caufed from darkriefs, or the effeCt of night- uponthebrilliant particles which compqfe.thefcales On the fiffothat float fo im- _menffflbodies for miles arpund. ., ; As the nets are drawn fulj',' each heart increafes in happinefs; and'. the-rifing fon. from the eaft illumjnes the way iflto Douglas harbour, which' is neficjlal inftitutions. And it is the opinion of Sir F. M. Eden,jhat, they ought to be encouraged fo 'as to render them ufiiverfa'l through-' out'the kingdom:" See Sir P. M.'Edjmy oH'fhe'ftaM (iFffiePoory 3 vols. 4ns are .com paratively dear. It" has two fairs in May, and one in November, and. is the, chief place of trade in theifland. .The, packet j wjth foe mail -from England, is. due from Wbjtehaven after; Monday.. evenings, and on its arrival at Douglas, ftays there three day? and then returns! .»¦•• -• The Rev... Mr. Stowell, of .. Douglas, has a curious an tique fmall painting qf pur Savioyr, with this infcription : 5' THIS PRESENT FIGURE IS A SIMILITUDE OF .OUR LORD AND SAVIOUR JESUS CHRIST,. IMPRINTED IN.-.AMERALD BY THE PREDESCESORS OF THE CREATE TURKE, AND * See the Retrofpeft, the Sallad, &c. poems in 4to. and umo. by this gentleman, no lefs' diftinguifhed by' his poetical genius, than his. modeft worth and amiable deportment in private life. . SENT THE lSUS. OF MAN. 23 I SE.NT .TO! THE POPE INOCENTE THE -EIGH. TOVL' -THIS e-AUSE-FOR A TOKEN, TO RECEME; HIS' BROTHER YT. WAS taken prisn'or." .-Painted On board.- ¦ ... Mr. Moore hasa variety ;pf curidfities, which he very readily and politely- (hews to, ftrangers, - ...."¦ ; ' At Braddon church, I wis-.-witnefe tO-the funeral of a mother, borne by her fons ; the, fervice was ' performed in the Manks language, .and the corps ufhered.in by'apfalm J when in the church the four fons knelt in- the" attitude of prayer oyer the coffin, :the fight of which was very affecting. ' " Another race the following age fupplies, " They fall fucceffive, and fucceffive rife." The Duke of Athol's feat* is in the, vicinity of Douglas, and, Mr. Whalley's beautiful hpufe and grounds,, whjpfoare ftill in a progreffiye,,flate of improvement,- enibellifh , Dou glas very ;much;, it, is part of the Nunnery, eftate;-^-pf the Nunnery, Major Taubman's, .1 .fhall leaye Clara Lenpx§ to- fpeak. - " Thefaloqn and othej; apartments are, fine, and elegantly finifhed; at the front of. the, houfe; towards die, to.vyn, is a fpacious fquare planted round.; .with} evergreens, filver furze, and the, moft beautiful flowerjpg fhrubs; ,the gardens are laid out with greattafte, and; adjoining is an ex cellent hpt-houfe or nurfery, fhrubberypr wilderness, .^the whole being connected witljforprizing^.onvenience. . The *His Grace's featsin Scotland are thus defcribed by a receri!: Tourift. " They are among the fineft ornaments' of Perthih'ire'. Thehoufesare fumptuous and magnificent ; the furrp.unding plea fure grounds are naturally fo picturefque a,naV,r.qmantick, and. are adorned in a tafte fo fuitable to their natural character, that to wan - der over them is ftill more interfiling to the ftranger, than to fur-ve'y theducal apartments." Heron's Scot, defcribed, i-amo. 1797.- § A late novel, 2 vols. limp. . ,, *:¦#;, ^ :¦ ,, , '• Nunnery 23,2 A TOUR THROUGH Nunnery is unLverfally admired for its heaatifiil prqfpectj from the windows up-ftairs, are piCturefque views of great beauty: near foe front of the houfe runs a beautiful river, wandering terpentine through the vale, till if meets the har bour; oyer it is a very handfome bridge, and near it is a newly-ereited mill, fertile meadows, beautiful cottages, and a rufoou$ Gqthick bridge, all at fuch a djfliance as to be pleajfog. objeCts," The priorefs of Douglas was anciently a barqnefs of the ifle, held courts in her own name, and; ppfleffed great tem poral as well as fpiritual authority. The rujns of her conT vent remain. The old Fort or Round Tpwer at Douglas? is the only place of confinement for common offences. The inhabi tants in turn are fummoned to keep watch and ward tp pre vent efcapes. A proper place qf confinement fhould be among the firft objects of the new improvements for pubfick fafety. The mountain of Karraghanjtn this parifh, isfeparated from that of Penny-pot by a pleafant valley, which is reck oned an excellent fheep- walk. The fpring- tides flow 300 yard$ above Douglas bridge, and in Nov. 1786, 346 feet of the dua'y was wafhed away, with the light-houfe,"by an eafterly wind. A bridge fo ruins croffes the river at Douglas, having been carried away' by a high fea, acting on fome floating timber, fo Get. 1790. It was Angular that a man who- was on U> focpgh fwept away, was yet fayed by the exertions qf v the; aftonifhed- fpe^atwa, The town is fupplted wkh water, drawn in cafks through the ftreets. In taking a fpecimen, I found myfelf unable to flop the cqrrent^ foe man (at the length of two horfes.) did See Vignette in the Title-page, not THE ISLE OF MAN, * 233 not perceive the rnifchief, arid trembling left his long whip and I fhould be better acquainted, I flipped down the firft avenue, laughing at my folly— Mifce ftultitiarn, confiliis brevem. I fhall conclude with a fentence from Goldfmith, though not altogether apropos: " Innocently to amufe the imagination in this dream of Jife, is wifdom ; and nothing is ufelefs, that by furnifhing us with mental employment, quells, for a while, thofe ftronger appetites which lead fo evil." KIRK ONCAN. SINGE the great decreafein the value of money, a retro- foeCtiye view of any remote period, relative to the prices of provifion and labour, becomes not only an object' of curiofity, but a fpeculation pf importance, as it at all times materially affects the happinefs of the majority of the people. Before then I fpeak of the parifh immediately under review, I fhall digrefs a moment to wander through the old Manks fta- tutes, to learn, as far as I can, how thefe were eftimated in the infancy of fociety- I find by an act of Tynwald, 1430, it is enacted that the Lord be victualled when he is in the ifland, at the following prices: " a cow, or beef, price 4s., at two head courts in the year, of every fheading, two martes, (bullocks) the price of every marte 3s. 40*. ; aind when the Lieutenant is here, a marte every week, with other victuals ; i. e. the price of a marte 4s. a mutton 6d. a pork 4d. a lamb- id. a kid Jd. a pig. id. a goofe |d. from E after to Midfummer, and this by ufe and cuftom." By 33:4 * A TOUR THROUGH By a ftatute.of 1758, the fofs- qf flieep by "dogs; incurs a payment of 5s. for- a. mutton; 4B..for a, fheep; arid ayear.- ling, and a lamb, at 3s. feverally ;¦ andthe dogs-lobe hung.' By an aCt of Tynwald, in 16095, the wages of a plough man per year, were fixed at 13s. 4d.; every driver, 10s.; every horfeman, 8s. ; and every wornan-fervant, as* (he fhall be thought to deferve by the deemfters and. jury". Every head taylor, per day, with meat and drink, 4d. and not above; and every apprentice taylor, with meat" and drink, 2d. and not above. ' Arid" if "ahy" refufe to 'work at thefe rates, they are to be " put to be a fefvant."* " Weavers for every yard of woollen cloth for blanket, fuf- ficiently wrought, {d. ; for every four great hundred breadth of keare, id.; for every yard. of medlie, j^d. being five hundred, which is for every great hundred one farthing. " Linen webfters to be paid according to old cuftom, as the yarn foall be in ffoallhefs or greatnefs. .." Every walker or fuller, for everyjyarn fulled,.,|d. of .the gteat hundred ; keare cloth, | and the cheap rates both, of corn. and cattle; and yet are the. fervahts1 in a abetter condition to, fobfift, by the cheapnefs of cloth, both ii-nervaindwQollen, and all other commodities theyftand in need of." To reftrain, therefore, what they term the ex orbitancy of, the fervants, and; to moderate between both, the following rates, of wages were enacted'; . a ploughman, 15s.;- driver, ios^,; horfeman, or lad, -8s. ; houfehold fifher- man, 13s; per annum. Every maid-fervant of ability, 9s: a year; wages of inferior- fervants to be eftimated bythe deemfter. Servants refufing at thefe rates to work, to be imprifoqed. ' Thefe obfokte laws; were repealed in 1777. .The prefent price of labour is increafed; Mr. Quayle in forms us, within ,ten years, from 6d. to 8d. and i2d. per day. A ploughman has fix guineas, boys two guineas a year ; carpenters and mafons, is. 6d. ; quarriers, is. \A.; mowers, is. 6d. and 3 quart of alp per day, (fee page 51;) women, 6d. per day at potatoe fetfing, haymaking, weeding, and pulling flax, 8d. in harveft, and 7d. in digging potatoes. The 2^6 A TOUR THROUGH . Ther following notice: was lately read: fo each parifo :¦ ¦ " Whereas, at .the year * 1422, 1561, 1665J &c. act's- of Tynwald were paffed, that no beggar or vagabond fhould be permitted to come into this, ifland. Andthe mafter of ariy veffel bringing over foch, or any other, perfon or perfons, who had no vifible meams of making a livelihood, was ob liged: to maintain them' himfelf; till he carried them' back, under pain of having his veffel feitzedv Moreover; if is or dered by the: faid. asfls, that'every parity fhalli maintainits own psar, and not fiiffer them to beg in any other pariffay and tfeif thofe who infringed upon flfe law fhould be whipped in their own pariiffces,:' — Notice is: therefore hereby given^ that henceforward this: law will be put in ftrict force." ¦ ¦ Bat to our prefent object of parochial enquiry* Kirk, Qncan. In this parifh is- fiKuared the little village Chon- d'noghad", w&'mh. in Engh'flv fignifies- Bridge-end-, andfe about two miles, iron* Douglas, through which die great road pales to Ranafay^ by- Laxey, This' parifo is one of the ffoalleft in the rflandy and' is bounded' by Lonan, Braddon, and: the fea, Gisowdale, Baokes harbour, Port-Caoyn, arid Port- y-acBay^ are diemamifaated creeks in fehi* parifh. Baileys and oats; are she prevailing crops-. Here are four corn-mills. The watefr I thought much'bettier than I had met with, in: otfeer (pots. The poop have a fmall fund of about 3d*, principal^ appropriated to their benefit. Among the. masay'^pleafaat moments that my perambula*. dons afforded me, 1 muft. necaiieCt with, regret -thofe expe- * The claufe in this a£t is, " Alfo that no man bring beggars or. vagabonds into the country, upon pain of forfeiture of his boat.*' And the prefent migration 'of-'tbe Irifh to the ifland is in great meafurerprCTStJtcd, >hy,a> lata order, tftafr none are ta be received without paiTports. rienced THE ISLE 0? MAN. 237 rienced with the worthy vicar of this parifo, who, alas ! is fince removed from among us. tie received me with a confidence and a generality, which could not fail to capti vate, and impreffed my mind with warm ideas of. liberality and benevolence. The church, which is dedicated to Qnca, the mother of St, Patrick, is fifty-fix feet long, and fifteen broad. The Rev. William Gell was vicar fifty years,, and was fucceeded by his fon, Samuel Gell, on- whofe removal to Kirk Lonan, in 1759, the Rev. Thomas Quayle fucceeded, who dying in 1798, the Rev. John Cannel, the prefent vicar, wasinftituted. The parochial fehoql is in the village above-mentioned. A fmall mountain, fituated fouth of Sliaucoure in Lonan, is called Karn-ajole in this diftriCt. This coaft, .in its creeks and bays, produces a great va riety of marine plants; and the marine mofies. are tiriged with the moft beautiful Ihades of red, green, brown, and yellow; fome few are ofabluifh caft, but fhoTe with the various fhadings of red are the moft numerous. The eminences in this parifh difplay the ocean to advan tage; the Englifh coaft, on a clear day, is feen in almoft every part of the ifland; the eye delighted, roves over thevaft expanfe of water, admires it, under all its fluctuations,- and obferves, ¦'- i"* .. - •¦ , ..; — " When calm, ^ " What iris-hues of purple, green, and gold, " Pl'ay on its glafly furface jrfland, when vext ¦** With ftorms, what depth of billowy fhade, with light , " Of curling foarn, contrafted." , . Gilpin. Among the firft objects that attract iri'a new place, are the church and church-yard. Let us here take a contemplative range for a few moments, and mufe with fympathetic feel ing 238 A TOUR THROUGH ing over the mouldering afhes of thofe who, though once alive ;to the fweeteft emotions of the mind, are now paft that ftatq we ,npw enjoy. , . " Together down' they (ink in fociallove/ ¦ ' : <" " Together freed their gentle fpirits fly " To fcene's where loVe atidbliis immortal reign. ." '.Seven., perfons are recorded between the ages of 72 arid 83; and three perfons between 90 and 99 years of age. Atude carving of a. warrior, with fome Runic-k charac ters, faid to be on the higheftrftep, efeaped my notice. In this church-yard is a tomb to the memory of " Alice Bufk, wife of Wadfworth Bufk, efq; attorney-general of the ifle: on the nth of June, 1776, in the 38th year of her age, her valuable life was fuddenly loft by a fatal and deplorable accident; to the heart rending grief of one, whofe happinefs lies buried here ; whofe health, whofe eafe, whofe comfort washer care; whofe inclinations,., ere his lips had uttered them, foe caught even from his eye, and regarded as a law ; whom to the laft fhe honoured with her love, and having bleft him while fhe lived, bleft him alfo with her expiring breath. On his diftraCted mind, the virtues foe poffefled have too deeply ftamped the remembrance of her untimely death; though fobmitted to by herfelf, in the moft calamitous circumftances* with , a degree of fortitude and refignation, which chriftianity only could infpire, and which reflected a luftre on her fex, her character, and her religion." On another tomb is the following infcription: " Captain Wm. Harriman, buried Feb. 19, 1760, aged 32." The boifterous blafts on Neptune's waves Have toft me to and fro: • , In fpite of both, by God's decrees, I harbour here below. ,. Although THETSLlE OJF MAlfc 239 "Although I here at anchor, lie,-: : : 7. .With many of our fleet;: I muft one day fet fail again, Our Saviour Chrift to meet-.- This parifh, from-ifsvicinity' to DougIas,isverypIeafarir, affording, from its higher ground, charming fea-views and landfcapes, and -the veffels' corning into- or going-oiit of the bay, are feen very prettily around it. ""From the number of publick-houfes mentioned iri'page l2q, it will be obvious that every village and parifh is pro vided fo that refpeCt; and the little huts; 'thus- privileged, have mpftly afmallemptybarrel outfide thedoorto indicate their hature; if ydtt! venture- iri, the chance- is, that you will be 'gratified' with excellent wine, plenty of riim, and im- proveable ale; — and herring's and potatoes of courfe. The people -are civil,- and you -may travel at all hours 'with the greateft fecurity; they faltite you with, Good morn, ox good 'e'en, goo'd e'en, whenevery oil meet them. The people of this parifh, I noticed, as Very orderly >and decent on the Sunday. ' ' ,.-•'¦ Dr. Knox, I think, remarks,'that ¦ ": Religion is the higheft accompli fhment and perfection of human nature, and that zeal for it, when properly directed, muft be- acceptable to God." The progrefs'!6f the Methodifts in this ifland has-been no lefs rapid than in other countries. " In this, and moft other parifhes, there is a place of worfhip : here I heard an Englifh fermon delivered with an'animated elocution ; and one in Manks, by a native, no lefs fervent and devout. No other denominations of diflenters exift in theifland. "The word'Methodift was firft given to ancient phyficiahsj who praCtifed by regular rules, in oppofition to the prac7 tice 24<* A TOUR THROUGH tice of quackery } but it is now applied to any body of" Chriftians, who profefs a more than ordinary zeal for the falvation of mankind.* Their progrefs here was owing to Mr. Lowry, a native, who prevailed on Mr. Crook firft to vifit it in 1775. Mr. Crook preached to numerous audiences, and after fome violent oppofition from turbulent fpirits, eftablifhed many focieties. Mr. Weftley vifited it in 1777, and was well re ceived. .Preachers fpTung up, who preached in Manks and Englifh, and all oppofition gradually died away. Mr, Weft- ley remarked, " that, they had no fuch circuit, either in England, Scotland, or Ireland; it is, faid he, fout up from the world. There are no difputers, no diflenters of any kind. The governor, bifhop, clergy, oppofe not. They did for a feafon!, Dut they grew better acquainted with us." At prefent (1798) there are in the methodift focieties of the ifland 2700 perfons ; three travelling preachers, fixty Manks preachers, and fifteen meeting-houfes. , In. 1 797, William Savary, a quaker of Philadelphia; with Mr. Farrel, and George Binns, of Liverpool, and Mr, Fofter, of Warrington, vifited and preached in the ifland, and were treated with attention and refpeCt. The two for mer had been through Europe to examine the ftate of the religion of Jefus Chrift. They remarked that at Berlin, and here, they perceived more apparent marks of religion than at moft other places. . Mr. Crook vifited the ifland again in 1 798. This dif- triCt is now annexed to the Whitehaven circuit, and is re-- gularly vifited. " The zeal with which die methodift teachers diffufe their doCtrine, is exemplary. It exhibits every appearance » Vide Evans's Sketches, iimo. ; and Dr, Coke's Life of Mrf Weftley, 8vo. of T^jySjLE, Of M,ANA 24I qftflrjcerity* „ Eariy.and fojte, in, feafbog and, out qf (eafcn, fhftyare ready to exerjt ,;^pir; ^jef^ abilities .in,p{;ay;e-rT, and, in aUaCt§.pf( charity."*5 ..--.- I conclude with hoping, in the language ,0/ a, pipus fo reigner, "That the fyftem of, Chriftianity. njay not be a fyftem of fpeculation, a barren theory, a me^e^xte^na] dif- tinCtion, much lefs a fubje<5t of ipontroverfy, ,difp,ute,, and divifipn, between us and our, brethren;; but let itlpe the qonftant rule of our conduct, a, principle^cjf aCtion,, out in-. flxuC^gr and guide. "§. ¦ K IRK LO NAM IS'forrounded by Maughold bin the north, Ohcanon the fouth and weft, by the f/ea on the eaft, and partly by Lezayre. It contains two groups of cottages termed villages, Agnes, at the north foot of Snaffield; arid Laxey on trie great road between Douglas and Ramfay. ' It has two principal rivers, one of which, called GihOn- gawn, rifes near the mountain Onus, and enters the fea at Garwich; the other, Laxey river, rifes from the foot of Snaffield, and falls into the ocean at the village of Laxey. Herd are two fine fprfngs, St. Patrick's on the weft end of Lhargey-graue ; and Lord Henry's on the beach fouth of Laxey. The mountains are, Mallaghouyr, famous for turf, Onus, Slieulhean, arid part of Snaffield. : . ',;/ '.. ¦ .. . ¦ '. ¦r.a : -:¦¦:-,:¦ *. Df. Knox's Winter Evenings, vol. iii. . . § Zollikofre on Piety; tranflated by Rev. Mr.. Manning, of Ex,etfir, 8vo. 1796. r The 242 A TOUR THROUGH The lead-mines are about one mile and a half from Laxey; the ore is fo rich as to yield 150 ounces of Elver in a ton. A bridge of four arches erodes Laxey river, at the foot of the village'. It is a remarkable parifh for bleaching; hemp and flax are grown in fame quantities. - The creeks are, Garwich, Laxey, and the promontory of Clay-head. ' There is an oyfter-bank extending from Laxey bay, to- about two miles from Maughold1 head, in eighteen feet water, about two miles broad, and one and a half from the fhore. An engraved plan of Laxey harbour is given in the Commiflioners' Report. It appears (by a reprefentation in 1791) " that the har bour of Laxey is the only one in the'ifland that lies conveni ent, with an eafterly wind, for veffels 'bound to the weftward ; and that its natural fituation might- be made commodious, at a fmall expence, for veffels of a large draught of water ; that there is a red-herring houfe, and twenty large boats belonging to Laxey; that it might eafily be made a place for (helter; and that the lead-mines worked and carried on at Laxey, demand an improved date of the harbour for carrying them on with advantage. They, therefore propofe to build a pier, Sec. and require the attention of government to an object of fuch great publick utility." The bay is about two miles acrofs, but not fufficiently fheltered from the eaft winds, which do great damage in winter. It produces all kinds of. flat, fifh, and ufed to be famous for fpawn herrings, but they have left it. It is a fine bay for trawling with the large feines; and when the tide is but," the inhabitants fifh with long lines laid on the fand, baited with fand-eels; the larger fort of thefe are here found, with red gurnet., white and rock cod, Sec. The THE ISLE OF MAN. 243 The mountains afford excellent fhooting, and abound with gtoufe, golden plovers, &c. In plate 3, is reprefented a fmall circular range of ftones, probably Druidical, on the road-fide near Laxey; in the centre was a kiflvaen, or a ftone fepulchral cheft. Its fcite is rather elevated, and the whole is but a few yards in diameter. Laxey is a groupe of about thirty cottages, in a deep glen, opening into a fine bay on one fide, and furrounded by deep and lonely mountains. Snaffield is three miles from it. It has a herring-houfe eighty feet by twenty-eight, be longing to Mr. Wattleworth, of Ramfay, at prefent unem ployed ; alfo a flax-mill, a tucking-mill, and 3 corn-mills, , Treafure-trove was,.before the act of 1765, in the Duke of Athol's family, but fince that time has been claimed by the crown, as appears by &n order of a Court of Exchequer of the ifland in 1 786, whereby a treafure-trove of 237 pieces of filver coin, found in this parifh, was, upon information filed by the Attorney-General, adjudged by" the court to, belong to his Majefty. On a former occafion, 'fubfequent alfo to 1765, a treafure-trove, confifting of ancient coins, was demanded from the Duke's fenefcbal, by the receiver- general. About a mile north of Laxey, under the rocks, is an un explored cavern. Laxey Gill is a pleafing walk in dry wea ther, winding up the romantick river, whofe fides are adorned by countlefs yards of bleaching cloth, and at intervals groupes of females tread the cloth in the ftream, -and fit round cauldrons boiling the cloth with kelp; the cloth covers a great fpace, and is kept down on the furface by large pebbles 5 they bleach tolerably white, but for peculiar purpofes they fend it to Ireland to be bleached. About one mile and a half up this woody glen, you come to the new level, work ing in purfuit of a vein of lead. Having taken an extra ;... r 2 coat, ,±^f A TOUR THROUGH * coat, and fome candles, I proceeded- into this- roeky cavern; about 1 60 yards brought us to the work, paffing a (haft ' formed fo let in ait: a miner fat down here, and in about ah hrjur-pierced a Bole, with great exertion, fixteen inches deep; this was- partially filled with gun -powder, and forcibly ramified down with proper wadding, to which a communi cation was made by- a long pointed iron, into which was introduced a ftraw-reed full of prime; the end of fhe reed then had a little brown paper greafed and pointed; and- with this, lighted1 like a- candle, we retired, when the noife and echo of die exploflon was tremendous. On returning we fonndvery large pieces torn by the1 powder. The miner having thus done his tafk 'for- that turn, we- fince more greeted the cheerful fon. On proceeding farther, we came to* the Old works", where is a pleating falliof-water over-the rocksv ' " Down in the dingle's depth there is a brook " That makes its way between the craggy (tones, " Murmuring, hoarfe murmurs." A coritpkny from Ireland are about to work thefe mfoesV which have had a temporary fufpenfion. An aCt was made in 1733, by which leave was given to blind a new church, more central and larger than the one at that ptfibd; which was old, ruinous, fmajlj and ill fituated fo a 'corner of the* parifh. Bifhop Wilfon gave iol. and Capt. Henry Skiflicorn, of Briftol, gavezql. towards it, out of a refpeCt to the place of his nativity-. 1735, Bifhop Wilfon confecrated the church in thepre- f-ence of a^ numerous «ongregatfony to . wh*im he preached and* adiriirtiftered the fecramcnf, and- ordained Mr. T. Chriftian prieft, and Mr. Nath. Curghey, deacon. The bifhop obfervmg that many churches of the diocefe (which were uniformly feated) had been exceedingly abufedand dis ordered, THE ISLE OF MAN. 245 .ordered, by- holding the -fehpol and -buryfog the dead therein, thenceforth forbade it. It may be worthy of remark that there is no other form fo-rtconfecrating churches, chapels, and burial-grounds, bwt that written by Bifopp Wilfon, which is, fa e#pellent a com- .pofitioni that on fimilar occafions it has =been adopted by fome of the Englifh bifhops. This church is near the road fide, about a mile from Laxey, its dimenfibns '84 feet, by 18. For the laft Jive years, ending in 1796, the number of marriages. was 56; baptifms 380,; burials 87, .In Lonan church-yards are nine, perfons between 71 and 79; and two of -the age-of 83 and 84. The Brew and Clague families bury in the old church-yard. The vicarage-houfe is near .jche church, the glebe is be tween twenty and thirty acres. The parochial fchool is on the road fide, about half a mile from the church- A filver cup for the communion fervice, irifcribefl *' Deo et altari Sti, Lonani facrpm. Ex-devritipnibus Tho. Wilfon, A- M. Thorn, epif. Sod. & ^Mannenfis filii, die canfecr. hujus eccles. 1735-" Former ¦ Vicars. tRev. Mr. 'Cofnahan, Rev. Mr.' Curphey, Rev. Mr. Radcliffe, pf the-oldxhurch. JfJf the new church, Rev. Mr, Allin, ;Rev.-Matt. Curphey. The prefent vicar, Rev. Mr. Gell. ~Trhe-old Ghurch is about two miles and a half from foe new one. The walls remain, the chancel^is, entire, but jn a rude ftate; an elder-tree ffourifhes within, the walls, and forms a warm afylum for the , feathered tenants of the air, ,Onp,-anc\ent Danifh -monument, on a crofs, (lands near the church, and a large one in the church-yard, with its end wedgedinto a;groovp of a large-flat ftone, T^e infcriptions hei,e^e'^fw» St. 246 A TOUR THROUGH St. Lomanus, to whom 4he church is dedicated, by tradi tion fucceeded St. Maughold. He was the fon of Tygrida, one of the three holy fifters of St. Patrick, and thought to be the firft bifhop of Trim in Ireland. ' The new church yard has a tomb for Mrs. Cam. Gell, alias Cofoahah; wife-of the Rev. Samuel Gell, who died Jan. 17th, 1789, aged '68. " When death did call I .gladly did obey, " Refolv'd to turn into my, native. clay;. "¦ My foul is gone, my Saviour Chrift to meet, " Although rhy" eyes are clothed here in deep. "¦ Ah! friends, repent, God's facred word? believe, " You fee I'm gone my wages to' receive." See Prov. XVi. 31. Matt. x.'b. KIRK CHRIST RUSH EN. IN this parifh', which I think as pleafant as ariy in the ifland, are comprehended the Calf of Man,Breda-head; Port- iron, Spanifh-head, Portle Mary, Flefwick, &c.^withCreg- naifh, a little village. It is bounded by Arbory, Patrick, and the fea. The mountains are Breda, Slieunycranane, and Mule. On the firft and laft are evident traces of the Druids, and a large tumulus near the church. In fhortj by a minute infpection, a variety of objects, filemly fpeaking an tiquity, are obfervable. A ! "r At Port Erin, Earn, or Iron, from its being oppofite to Ireland, is a beautiful natural harbour; a pier at a fmall expence would render it extremely commodious, and give twenty-five feet water. Here alfo is a fine fpring, with the beft water I met with, called St. Catherine's well, worth the attention- of the inha bitants, .<| * THE ISLE OF MAN. 247 bitants, who, at a fmall expence, might poflibly fecure it from the lands which now envelope it. Trinity well, near the church, evipces ;that gopd fprings are to be.found here. A plan of Port-iron and bay, is in the Commiflioners' Report, The lead-mines of Breda are about one mile and a half from hence ; they were clofed the day I was at Port;iron, fo that I could not vifit them. The ore is brought in boats to Port-iron river, where there is a conveniency for cleanfing it; it is then conveyed by land to the fmelting-houfe, near Port le Mary, at Bunroor. Port le Mary is a natural harbour at the back of Caftle town, and at a fmall expence it might be rendered com modious. , Two large (tones are obfervable near Port le Mary, and the ruins of an old chapel. Pool-vafh bay has a fine quarry of a fort of black marble ftone ; the fteps leading to St. Paul's, Lqndon, are paved with this ffone, fent by Bifhop Wilfon. From Caftletown to-Port-iron.is about fiyemiles, paffing the church of K. C. Rufhen ; Port-iron confifts of a pleafant bay, with a few neat houfes around its banks; Breda-head forms one fide of it, whence boats are generally taken for the Calf of Man, from which it is about three miles; you pay about i5d. an oar, as the ftrong tides at the found re quire four hands; thefhore to it is bold and fteep, but where there is the leaft herbage" Jheep are vifible, ftanding perpendicular almoft over your head, near the fhore. The ufual rock-birds alfo catch attention, and indicate what you may expect on the Calf. A few partings in thefe rocks fup ply flate fo finall quantities. The Calf is about five miles round; fheep, andfome of the Laughton kind, (fee letters iv. and xi.) abound, but no part of it is in tillage; fern, heath, and 5^.8 'A TOUR THROUGH arid fhbrt herbage, variegate its ifufface. On theweft'fide of the Calf the rocks are ftupendous, arid the quantity of birds called ^^iV^&c.incredtfJle; whether fitting on the rocks with their voting; 'Abating bh the fiiffate of the fea, or 'filling the intermediate air, they give vivacity to the fcerie; and their thrill Vb'hlesi " vMeh'cafol aiorid, artd in one chorus join," affeft iaiteriticin^aHd'pleafefrom its novelty. Spanifh-Head promontory, arid Caftletown, are vifible frbtrihehceV ^'HteMfid Ifldnd, or Rock, you 'pafs in your way. The'Calf ha'sfv^otttfe'ifotdfiaHted cots, and the ruins of twp more; a ftone-wall runs thrdugh it, 'and a'conve- nience for fhearirigthe'fhe'ep (about'^OO) is 'oh the fide of oriebrthegredt "chafttts, which runs 'up'lbrrfe' way. 'Rab bits are by no means fo plenty as formerly, as the tats de- jir.s '-.. ' . . ,, ; ftroy them. They haye a tradition of a perfon who fled and lived as, ¦ah^ermit^fo'the'Caif, andftllf fpeak of ' his pendent bed, 'coffin, feci; this "Was a Mr. Thomas Bufhel, who fays, " The embrions of my mines proving abortive, by the fall and ddSfn of Lord Chancellor Bacon, in James's reign, were fhe riiotives which perfuadedrny penfive retirements to a three "years tofitude, in the defolate ifle ' calledthe Calf of Man, where, in obedience toTny dead 'Lord's philofophidal "advice, I refolved to make a perfect experiment- upon my- 'felf, for the 'obtaining of a long and healthy life,' moft necef- Tary for 'fuch a repentance as my former debauchednefs required, by' a parfi'monious diet' of herbs, oil, iriufcard, 'and "honey,"with water tuffkieht, 'moft like to that T>f tbur^long- tivedTafhers'oefbre'the flood, 'is Was conceived by that' lord; which I moft'ftriCtly obferved, "as if obliged by a religious vow, till Divine Providence "called rile to a more active life."* * MS. penes Mr. Moore, of Douglas. The THE ISL'E DT MAN. 24-9 The Calf is fepaaated from the iflarid by a narrow ; rocky -channel, which has a heavy fwell ; it is the Duke of Athol's property; three pointed pillars are worthy of notice, as one half of each is of a black baftard marble, and the other half of a (timing white. But to return ; the ftranger fhould vifit Fairy-hill, and the fields adjacent, where King Ivar fought a battle. Rye is but little -grown here, nor is there any 'marl; but they are a little more induftrious than on the north -fide, iri -collecting the fea weedion the fhore, for the ipUrpofes of manure ' •'. " The prudent farmer all manure provides, vTC- "The mire of f bads, the mould of hedge-row fides; " For him their mud; the -Stagnant porids fopply: " For him their foil, the '(tabic and the fry. ,'- : '"¦Ypr this the twain,- onKeunet's winding fhore, ."Digs fulphUrous peat along the fable moor; f For this, where ocean bounds the ftormy ftrand, " They fetch. dank fearweed to the neighb'ring land," Scott. Donations to the poor about 40I. principal. ; Vicars. v Rev. Mr. Quayle, Mr. Crebbin, Mr. Chriftian; and in 1782, the Rev. John Clegg, the prefent vicar. The church was built in-17'75, and the chancel fince that period; jt is light, large, neat, and pleafant within, 78 feet long, bf 11 feet broad, artd is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The vicarage-houfe was rebuilt in 1 7 1 5. Bifhop Wilfon "gave 2l. towirds it, and in'i 734, 2]. towards:fhe.fcho6l-h6ufe. A copper mine has lately been difcovered in this neigh bourhood. Thebeautiful little bay of Port-iron, icis generally allowed, ' furnifhes the firft famples, in jpoirit of excellency, of allthe choice kinds of fifh frequenting thefe foores ;. the' herrings : taken here are fuperior to all others in flavour and plumpnefs. 250 A TOUR THROUGH Fairy-hill is-a noble barrow, which, tradition reports, was raifed to perpetuate the memory of Reginald king of Man, who, on- this fpot,- was killed in Tingle combat by Ivar. Sacheverell mentions a rjool in this parifh of fo vitriolick a quality, that poultry avoid it; this probably proceeds from the partidesTof copper! which (fays he) are difcovered on: the fides of its mountains. \ Ballagawndras. the. ruins of an old chapel on it, in which is an excellent fpring. . . ' ... In looking around the " frail memorials," which fo plen tifully ftore the burial-places of the ifland, I obferve many of the perfons to have perifhed by fea. Among others in this church -yard, is James Cottier, fon of Thomas and Ann Cottier* ,of the Roweny, who perifhed by fea, Oct. 20, 1789, and was buried Nov. 14th. In Chrifl> Rufhen church-yard are buried twenty perfons between 70 and 79; arid cleveri between 80 and 88 years of age "-'"' . ¦ • '¦¦•- As the fifhefy profoifes to hold out a new fource of com merce and riches, by the converfion of fifh and its refufe into foap, and may thus affect the interefts-of this ifland, I fhall make no apology for quoting part of the late examina tion of Sir John Dalrymple, bart: before the Committee of the Houfe of Commons, on this difcovery, Mr. Ryder in the.chair.* . , , " gktefion. What are the advantages of making foap from fifh over faking it ? Sir J. D. Firft, It requires no fait,, idly. It employs more hands, coals, and other materials, .ylly. It confumes * For the whole examination of Sir John. Dalrymple on this fub- jeft, and the fpecification of the patent for making foap from fifh, granted to Mr. Crooks, of Edinburgh ; fee Re pert, of Arts. No, 50, July 1798.' " the THE ISLE OF MAN. 25* the refufe of fifh that have been falted. \thly. It will confume the offal of whales', which at prefent are thrown away, and alfo thofe myriads of fifh which are driven afhore on the coafts of the Britifh ifles, by tempefts, or the purfuit of vo racious fifh. Mr. Fordyce,.of the Houfe of Commons, told me that he once bought fome tons of herrings, which had been driven afhore on hjs eftate, for a bottle of brandy. Lafly; The faking bufiriefs can take place only in the fifhing feafon, when the fifh are frefh; whereas the other will have three working times : if. The frefh fifh will be falted. ¦ "2^:, Thofe turned to putridity, even though three or four weeks old, may be turned into oil. 7,dly. The refufe of both, .and the fupefabundance of fifh, Which cannot be ufed in faking, or making oil, can be turned into faponaceous mat ter, and made into foap all the reft of the year. ££uefl. What are the proper places for foch an efta- blifoment ? Sir Ji D. Cornwall for pilchards ; the -Ifles of Man, or Anglefey, for cod ; Shetland, and the Firth of Forth, for herrings, where they are to be had for 2I. a ton ; but, above all, Hartlepool, if the fifh be as numerous as I have heard, becaufe to that rendezvous, on the eaft fide of the ifland, might be brought the offal of the whales of Scotland, Whitby, Hull, and London. Ifyuifti What do you know of the dog- fifh for the pur- -pofe of making foap ? Sir J. D. I know nothing of dog- fifh myfelf, but have been told by foap-makers, that they would make foap beft. The Duke of Athol told me, that they were in vaft numbers round his Ifle of Man ; that they deftroyed the herrings, cod, and other fifh, and were called the tyrant of the fea there. To which Sir J. Banks added; " that they were a real fmall (hark; which not only deftroyedthe fifh, but prevented lifhers from 352 -A TOU3R THRIOUfGH ting fifh, : becaufe they fwailowdd .the ibait and hook's, en tangled the nets,: and when thesfifhers took them, Ttheiy threw them away." [See page 222.,] -;,.. KIRK ARBORY. THIS isia fmall-andipleafartt parifh,houridsd.pjti theweft by Rufhen, on "the- eaft by Malew, on the north, by, Patrick, and- on the fouth by the fea. The road from rQaugJas -to Port-iron leads through its Gentre. It is two miles fram Caftletown, about four miles and half from Portofe, Maiy, and Pprt-iron, - Colby village in 'this, parifh is jfituated weft of the -church. The friary was built on land;giyen by King 'Godred; the ruins of a Roman chapel are in a garden near the village. -rPool-Vafh, and its quarry of black marble are we'll known; —other common ftone-quarries abound. The rivulets are not w^rth (particular mention. There are one corn and, four flax-mills. The name pf this parifh is fuppofed 1 to have: origin a ted from its mee having abounded in trees. On this fubject, a friend remarked, fmiling, that the natives could haveeither no idea of the beauty of the Pfalmift's-.fimile of a good man, compared to a tree planted by rivers Qfwater,;bringro,g forth fruits, '.See. as -they were ftranggrs to trees, 'rivers, and fruits; or'thatit might be to them probably a.-foblime. image, as allufions of too remote objects- of a.foperior-nature, are often. more ftriking than- thofe we are- familiar with. About 3QQ]. is the principal, of donations' to thepoor. The vicarage-houfe bcing-fo ruins, Bifhqp WiJfonfob- .fcribed. and collected enough to. builds .new one. •" I fop- plied," THE ISLE OF/ MAN., *53 plied," faid the Bifhop, " the vacant vicarage fox one year, and applied the income towards building a- new vicarage- houfe; with this and what I begged, and 2I. ios. I gave myfelf, and the afliftance of the parifh, we have erected one of the beft houfes in the diocefe." In the act, 1757, for the removal and rebuilding this church, the old one is ftated to be in a ruinous condition, and too fmall for the congregation, who were,,for thefe rea fons, and alfo to avoid the indecency and nuifance of having funerals and interments in the body of the church, defirous of leave for taking it down, and removing it to the north- fide of the former, within the precincts of the church-yard. This was granted, and no perfon allowed in future to be buried in the body of the church; it is 72 feet long, and 21 feet broad, and is dedicated to St. Columbus. In the chancel is a handfome marble monument to Rich. Ambrbfe Stevehfon, of Balladool'e, who died Feb. 27, 1773, aged 30,. erected by his wife Margery Stevehfon. On the chancel walls are fome old gilt letters, and a ftone tablet, on which are engraved the donations given towards rebuilding the church in 1758. On the timber of the old church, that parted it from the chancel', was the name of Thomas Radcliff, abbot of Rufhen. The regifter commences in 1670. Sir* John Crellin» vicar. Rev. Thomas Parr. * * * *. Rev. Mr. Moore. Rev. Mr. Quayle. Rev. John Moore, whom the prefent vicar, the Rev. John Chriftian, fucceeded in 1 792. This parifh is a pleafant diftanee from Caftletown, with a variety of agreeable objects, on the fouth-fide. The fpirit of conviviality which is occafionally kept up by ftrangers, and the friendfoip of the neighbouring families, (hew that * The tide of Sir ufed to be formerly added to the names of the vicars, while the rectors were (tiled parfons, fomething, 2C4 A- TOUR THROUGH fomething, in the fhape of fociability and happinefs; dwells in , Kirk Arbory. — —Dancing is a favourite purfuit, and par ticularly at fair times ¦, .- ' " I ne'er fuch feftivity faiv, " As there, while the damfels were hopping; ; " For dancing is fomewhat like law, " When once you begin there's no flopping." - Near Balladoole is a faltifh fpring, which runs very ra pidly; it is a little to the fouth- weft, near the fhore, and probably iffues from a fait rock. " The foil of the three fouthern parifhes of Rufhen, Ar bor)', and Malew, partakes very ftrongly of the fame warm, generous quality, afcribed to the northern part ; it is worked and cultivated with equal facility, and abounds in the fame productions, but is not capable of equally fubftantial im provements, though grateful to the tiller's hand and care."* Parochial bounds, by a circular letter from the Bifhop, in 1790, are enjoined to be perambulated on Holy Thurfday, according to ancient cuftonv. In Arbory church-yard are buried eighteen perfons be tween 71 and 79, (of which four are 78) and feven above 80 years of age. A monument to Richard Ambrofe Stevenfon, efq; fon to Richard Stevenfon, efq; comet of horfe in the Royal Vo lunteers in Ireland, and aid-de-camp to Lord Shannon; grandfon to John Stevenfon, efq; M. P. ereCted by his mo ther. He died Feb. 17, 1773. Adieu ! bleft fhade, oh ! ceafe to mourn, v Nor drive to wake the filent urn ; Rather each care, each thought employ, To meet thee in the realms of joy. * Townley's Journal. THE ISLE OF MAN. 255 Arms; per pale gules and ermine; a crofs faltire counter changed. •• Mrs. Alice Stevenfon, widow of Richard Stevenfon, efq; died Feb. 26, 1785, aged 69. Richard Ambrofe Stevenfon, of Balladoole, died March 12, 1795, aged 33. A ftone to the memory of George Evans, of the London, his two fons, and nine mariners, who perifhed . by fea near Stranhall, Jan. 28, 1781. Erected by Mr. Robt. Marow, merchant, Liverpool. Catherine daughter of Henry and Jony Corritf, buried June 9, 1794, aged three years. " Afleep in bed I laid, " Where none I did offend ; " From thence againft my will convey'd, " To a plaguey pox by men. " Dear parents ceafe to weep, " I innocently forgive; " Rather: remember me to meet, " V/here love doth ever live." N. B. This appears to be an original fpecimen of moun tain poetry. It may be neceflary to fay, that what gave rife to it, wasJ tile inoculating the child (who was av erfe to it) when fhe was afleep. I with to remark here, that in going to the refpeCtive pa rifhes, I took down every infcription in every church-yard, except one; but they occupy fuch a fpace, that I am deterred from printing them in this volume,' yet hope to prefent them at a future period, as a treafure to the inhabitants, in forne detached and cheap form. Thofe inferted here are felecte'd from the general- mafs. In endeavouring to explain the Angular circumftance that happened to Robert Cottier's wife, mentioned in page 169, it was fuggefted to me by Dr. Fothergill, of Bath, in con- verfation, % 56. A. TfiUR, T H&OU G fit' vei&tioos whether fo. might not fee accouritedi for, on the foppoffoon of a double uterus, a remarkable cafe of which occurred, in Ireland a. few years (foes*, under that eminent accoucher Dr. Purcell, of Dublin, and which was recorded fo the Phil. Tranf.. with p,lates? * few years fince., KIRK ST. ANN, or S ANTON- This fmall parifh is bounded by- Malew, Braddon, Ma rown, and the fea. It has one corn-mill, a fulling-mill, and. a hat- manufactory. It is four milesfijom Caftletown, and fix from Douglas. AtNewtpwnis a. pillar erected by Sir .Wadfworth Bufk, late attorney -general of the ifland, in honpur of the King's recovery in 1789. It likewife ferves for afea-mark. It has a bridge or two over fmall ftreams, which, with feveral others, are kept in repair by virtue of an act- paffed in 173.9, hnpofing a poll-tax of one penny per head) yearly,. for a certain period, for repairing all, old. ruinous bridgeis,3nd alfo. St. John's ebi- pel; and then to build a new bridge, over the rivet S,ulby, in, Kirk Chrift Lezsyre parifh; another over the great river in the parifh of Kirk German, between St... John's and Peel; a third between Kirk Mafev? arid Kirk St. Ann, qn the road between Caftfetpwri and Douglas.; afourth between Ramfay and Kirk Bride, and Kirk Andrews; and a fifth over that, river near Peel-town, between Kirk German and Kirk Pa trick. Thefe. are the principal bridges in the ifland. The creek of Greenock is very ^pretty, and there is an other called Saltrick, which is a pleafant walk from the church ; the rocks here are grand. Some Djruidical remains are noticeable here, particularly a .circular range of ffones on a mount, with others at a fhqrt diftance; THE ISLE OF MANi 257 diftance; below thefe is an aperture, which I fhall denomi nate the Faries' well, at the bottom of which you may per ceive the waves dafhing, at a great depth: " Fairies, by rrioon -light, oft are feen " Tripping round the frriooth fward greerrj " Her beams reflected from the wave, " Afford the light their revels crave.'' The remnants of antiquity found iri the ifland are, 1. Mounds of earth, which are thought to have been thrown up for judicial purpofes; the preferit Tynwald is one of thefe fo ufed at this day; 2. Cairns, or circular heaps of ftones, fuppofed to be burying-places ; I faw none of thefe, but heard of one in Kirk Michael. 3. Lohg ftones, fet end-ways ; of thefe many occur, they are thought to be of Danifh origin, and that they were meant to perpetuate the memory of fome warriors, or fome warlike events. 4. Stones' placed circularly ; thefe are conjectured to be places of wof- fhip, though Profeflbr Thorlekin conceives them to have been ufed as civil courts of juftice. The cloven ftones at Laxey, having had bones dug up within them, feem to have been intended as a fepulchral monument, unlefs it may be conjectured that the ancients ufed their places of worfhipi as we do ours, for places of interment likewife.* The foil is moftly of a light nature, but in one diftrict is & heavy loam: The following lifts of grazing prices, will (hew the Englifh farmer how land is eftimated here. Cattle taken in at Newtown, 1*797, on the following Terms: £. s. d. Bullocks from 3 years old and upwards, at - 1 11 6 Steers and heifers from 1 to 3 year olds -170 * See obfervations in " The Bee," by Dr. Anderfon, vol. 7th. Edin. 1791. And note in Letter xii, s Young 3,5.3 A TOUR THROUGH Young cattle from i to 2 years old - - - 1, 5 6 -Mares, with foals - - - - - 2. 2 q Young horfes, 3 years old - - - 1 1 1 6 Young colts and fillies, from 1 to 3 years old 156 The cattle will betaken fo to graze on the 12th, of May, and muft be taken away on the 1.2th. of November. Having mentioned the rot in fheep in page 54, 1 beg.nere to remark, that though particular places attribute, thisdiforder to different plants, yet others deny that fheep eat thofe plants; and that thefe plants, are innocent, I think is, probable, from the djforder appearing at intervals of eight or ten years, and on fome. farms never. This induces me rather to attribute it, with fome fenfjble farmers, to a peculiar wet feafon co-ope rating wifo particular I?us> tne change thus produced in the vegetation and in the atmofphere, inducing that morbid ftate of the fyftem which ultimately ends in the animal's death- In Encyc. Brit. vol. x. p, 708, is ftated a cafe where the rot is attributed to the watering of a meadow. Among other ingenious calculations in Robertfon's Ge neral Report on Farms, drawn up for the Board qf Agri culture, (4to, 1796.) the ifland of Man is rated to contain 20o,qoo acres of land, of which 55.000. are ftated to be in tillage, and 65,000 acres employed in grafs; but this appears far too high ap^ eftimate. [See page 7-] Balla-yilla and Glentraih are pleafant fpots, the latter leading down to the foore by Greenock. Mount-Murray, Lord H. Murray's eftate, is on the rpad fide from, Douglas, to Caftletown, at the fourth mile ftone; notwithftanding the pains taken,, vegetation appears chilled here. A well in this' parifh ufed formerly to be much reforted to from all parts, for its fanatiye qualities. A fair is held annually in this parifh in June. The church, which is dedicated tp St, Anp, the mother of the THE ISLE OF MAN. 25*j the Virgin Mary, is fituated half a mile from the fhore. If is neat, and was new feated laft year. In Santon church-yard, which has but few infcriptions, are the following inftances of longevity ; which may ferve as a good teftimonial of the falubrity of the air, and the tem perance of its inhabitants : ages 75, 76, 77, and four of 79; alfo 80, 81, 82, 88, 90, no. The vicarage-houfe was built in 1722, to which Bifhop Wilfon gave 5L; and in 1725, the church fteeple was built, to which he alfo contributed. The donations to the poor are about 20I. principal. Farmer Vicars. Sir John Cofnaghan, 38 years, who was buried under the great ft 'one in the church-yard, June 24, 1656. Sir Hugh Cofnaghan, 23 years, died in 1690. Rev. John, his fon, vicar 34 years ; whofe fon fucceeded as curate in 1724. Rev. Paul Crebbin, in 1732. In 1 764, Rev. Mr. , Cubbon. In 1 7 69, the prefent vicar, Rev. Charles Crebbin. An ,old ftone, with fome characters fimilar to Roman capitals thereon, was dug up in the church-yard, at a Very great depth, and is preferved by the vicar. In the church-yard is a ftone to the memory of Daniel Tear, who died Dec. 9, 1787, aged no. " Here, friend, is little Daniel's tomb, " To Jofeph's years he did arrive; " Sloth killing thoufands in their bloom,. " While labour kept poor Dah alive. " How ftrange, yet true, full feventy years, " Was his wife happy — in her Tears." N.-B. This perfon was a native of Kirk Andreas, and was latterly a vagrant; Sir W. Bufk erected the ftone, and wrote the yerfes; it is generally thought he was really older than no. s 2 KIRK &6Q A TOUR THROUGH KIRK MALEW. THIS is the feyenteenth, and laft parifh which I have! to riotice. A fpirit for topographical enquiries has lately been pre valent, and every year produces new acceffions to this de partment of literature; thefe refearches have beeri fanctioned with a considerable fhare of publick approbation, which evinces, in fome degree, their utility. Diffident as I feel in this attempt, to folicit the publick eye, (for the reader will not recollect my name to any pre vious publication) I venture to anticipate a candour, which will not totally filence the jejune and obtruding mufe. In juftice to myfelf, I beg to remark, that I fet out in 1797, without the fmalleft preparation for, or intention of, producing the prefent volume. Yet as I conftantly kept a diary of each day's obfervation, it occurred to me that an arrangement of it for the prefs might be confidered as not altogether an ufelefs addition to the ftock of local know ledge ; and I do not confider it as an unforfuitous circum ftance, that the fpot under difcuffion is among thofe hitherto leaft known. It has been my endeavour to inform the reader by a ftatement of facts, without aiming at embel- lifhment of ftile ; and it will be my pride and pleafure, if the tafk fhould be fo performed as to prove a fource for rational amufement and interefting information : — With this favourable, impreffion, I therefore proceed to fpeak of KIRK MALEW. It is bounded by Arbory on the weft, Patrick on the north-Weft, Marown on the north-eaft, and on the eaft, by Santon and the fea. It comprehends Caftletown, the me tropolis of the ifland ; the village of Ballafalla, Derby-haVeri, -Longnefs-point, &c. Iri THE ISLE OF MAN, 26l In this parifh are feveral publick breweries, five com arid three flax-mills. One river runs through Ballafalla,: and another on the boundary of St. Ann. The mountain of SQUth-Barrufer moar is principally in this parifo. The average of baptifms for ten years paft are, yearly, about 100; of marriages about 30; and burials 40. The church is about a mile from the town', is 90' feet long, with a wing 24 feet long and 18 broad. Former Vicars. Rev. ;Mr. Woods, Mr. Quayle, Mr. Gill, Mr. Gelling, Mr. Clucas, and in 1783, the Rev.' Mr. Harrifon, the preferit viear. The donations to the poor are about 1 5I. per annum, befides frequent collections. Its lime-ftone forms a large article of trade to other parts of the ifland. It has a very extenfive turf-bog termed Rouanaa, The foil is various ; namely, gravel, loam, and clay, but no marl. A refpeCtable writer on the fpot lately gave, in the Manks Mercury, the following account of foe recent progrefs of agriculture. " How averfe foever the" landholders of this ifland'may be, in general, to make any efforts of improvement in agrU culture, there ftill are fome few, who have departed from the common courfe. Mr. Bacon firft exhibited, on his eftate of Newtown^ the verdure of May in the depths of winter, by excellent crops of turnips. Sir George Moore, of Ballamoore, alfo, for many years, followed the fame courfe of tillage for winter food. " Mr, Oates, of Oafland, raifes confiderable crops of turnips for fattening cattle, Mr. Senhoufe Wilfon, on his late purchafe, has alfo made con fiderable advances in the turnip tillage, Mr. Quayle, pf fhe Creggains, affords the beft example of a compleat farm parried 2q"2 A, TOUR,. THROUGH carried on uppqfhe fyftem qf the beft-cultivated counties in England, efpecialiy in turnips and other wfoter: green food ; and his Grace the Duke of Athol, fo hjs late purchafe, has begun with great fuccefs that cultivation, as may be feen from the wonderful degree of fatnefs, tp which his cattle, fed on turnips, haye arrived.; the crops moft foitable to fol low- that^pf turnips, are, ift year,— Barley, with. i2fo..t.ed clover fee^,:.aiid„2,bqlj of white hay feed per acre. , .;-.,< . 2d yeatj-^JIay, which thoukl. produce between, two and three tons, . , . , 3d year, — Barley, if the foil be light; or whe^t, if, ftrong. 4th year, — Peafe, which are both a clganfing an^ impro ving crop. 5th ye?r,-rBarley, " Aher thi,sr crop, plough the ^nd and drefs for turnips, and potatoes agafo., The fafoe niode of pjeparatiqri of the foil which is laid down for turnips, will equally a.nfyyer for potatoes in the drill, with .this exception, that if the land be foul, it cannot be expected to, be made equally clean of weeds, and' as fine in the month of April, when the potatoes fo.ould be planted, as it might, in the middle of June, when the turnips are : to be foyvr\." For the informatipri of the Manks. reader, it may not be impropei; to mention,, that the Bath Society,, in their lift of P,reipi,uros of 179,8, reco,inn^en4 the ufe of the dpubleffurrow- plough, jn its improveij ftate, as,,tbe beft fqr, expediting and faying of labour, ajr^d expence,, and for performing ^fhe, work hettei; thanj any yet con^ructed. It turps, two acres ifo a day, with three horfes, orfqu^ qxeifo withoqt.a driver. In theroad. fooin Ma^vy to Kirk Chrift Rufhen, are two •higkiPAilaf 1 °i ^°ne, cajfejd the, Giant's quoit ftones.,. -: '.X, -\~ ', This THE ISLE OF MAN. 263 This parifh includes two chapels; befides the parifh church, one in thetown; the other at Black-hill quarter; called St. Mark's, about five miles from Caftletown, which was built fo 17 1 2. Chaplains to this within memory, have been the Rev.: Mr: Harrifon, Mr. Moore, Mr, Gale, and the prefent Rev. Mr. Clague. Mr. Thomas Farrer, one of the firft truftees, has a monument in the chapel-yard. In Malew church ate feme few relicks of pbpery in the cheft, &e. There is one infcription in the chancel wallj 6n a fmall ftone, to' " Elin. Corwyn, daughter of Robt.Corwynj of Cumberland, who was wife to Henry Staffarton, receiver of the Caftle, who departed in great mikeness,' and that patience Chrift did, 1578." This is the oldeftdate of any tomb in the ifland. Enfigns of the Stanley family are cut in wood, underneath the gallery, with the arms of the ifland. In the Chkrch. Jofhua Lewis, enfigri in the 58th regiment of foot, died Sept, 7, 1784, aged 17, eldeft fon of Lieut.-Colonel George Lewis, who commanded the, royal artillery at Gibraltar, in 1782, diftinguifhed for. his many amiable qualifies. On white marble : " Dorothy, the beloved wife of Capt. Taubman, of the Nunnery, and daughter of the late John Chriftian, efq; of Unefigg-halT, in Cumberland, who died at Briffol Hofwelfs, January 5, 1784, aged 27. Then' fol lows ari epitaph, the fame as that written by the Rev. Mr, Ma'fori, for his wife in Briffol cathedral, ' Take, holy earth, all my foul holds dear, 8cc' The line ' Speak, dead Maria!' breathe a (train divine,' Is altered, on account of the deceafed's name not befog Maria, and runs very lame, ' Speak, my dead love, breathe a (train divine.' 264 A TOUR THROUGH , Arms: Argent, a bend between fix mafcles gules, impaling azure, a chevron between three covered cups or?' Befides which are tombs to the memories of Charles Ballard, late of Lincoln's-inn; Mrs. Elizabeth Woods ; and many others, the particulars of which are preferved by me. The Church-yard " With nettles (kirted,* and with mofs o'ergrown,'' Has two handfome railed tombs, but without infcriptions : one is'meant for Deemfter Moore. " To the dead, " Each chaff e memorial rears its head 'f With unaffected grace." Thirty perfons are buried between 71 and 80 years of age; twenty perfons between 80 and 90; and one of 93. Sufanna Taubman, alias Quay, died July 2, 1784, aged 71. " She was born on a Midfummer-day; married on a Midfummer-day ; and buried on a Midfummer-day."-r— Good lack-a-day! " Margaret Chriftian, wife of John Chriftian, efq; of Unerigg in Cumberland, and daughter of John Taubman. efq; of the Bowlingrgj-een, and Efther his wife, died Feb. 1, 1778, aged 29. " Though called away in the prime of life, from the faireft profpects of human felicity; from the delighted hopes of moft indulgent parents ; from the tender affeCtion of a loving hufband; from the early promife of an only fon; and from * The Welch are peculiarly nice in this refpeft; their church yards being lilje flower-gardens. See a pleafing defcript >n of them in " A Tour of obfervafion and fentiment thcdugh Wales," vol. i. pf a very interefting and moral work, Matthews's "Mifcellaneous Companions," in j vols, izmo, Dilly, 1786. an THE ISLE OF MAN, 265 an affluent fortune; yet did fhe not repine. Innocence, virtue, unaffected fanctity, enabled her to meet the awful fummons with devout refignation. The efteem and admi ration of the wife and good — the deareft love of thofe that knew her beft ; the agonizing forrows of difconfolate friends ; pleaded in vain for her longer ftay ; yet was not her death untimely. Bleffed with wifdom above her fex, and virtue beyond her years, her tafk fhe foon finifhed ; a fpe- cimen was all that was required ; and now with the dead that ' die in the Lord, fhe refteth from her labours, and her works do follow her.V ff Learn hence, ye rich, unthinking, young, and gay, f Duly to prize the morning of your day; ?' Dark clouds may intercept ypnr noontide fun, *' Or night o'ertake you, ere your work is done." William Sedden, gent, died June 4, 1758, aged 81. " Know' ft thou, O man ! who paffeft by this fpot, '" That reft from labour is the juft man's lot; " His body buried here lies mix'd with eartfo " His foul, fet free, enjoys a fecond birth, " And difencumber'd from its clay flies light, f* Springs through the air beyond the realms of night. " Wrapt up in pleating hope, it mounts on high " To meet its Lord. Let tinners fear to die." I found an old memorandum in a regifter, that " in the year 1654, Kewifh and Callow, of Kirk Maughold, who were executed at Hangohill, near Caftletown, were buried in Kirk Malew, down in the way from the porch;" and fl That Mr. Wm. Chriftian, of Ronoldfway, receiver- general, was (hot to death at Hangohill, Jan. 2, 1662, for furrendering the keys of the garrifon to Oliver Cromwell's army, .266 A TOUR; THROUGH army. He died moft penitently and moft courageoufly, prayed earneftly, made an excellent /peeeh, and next day was buried in the chancel qf Kirk Malew." . • 'CASTLETOWN Is an airy pleafant i tow-ns. ten miles from Douglas, fixteeri from Peel, and twenty-fix from Ramfay; it is fmaller than Douglas, contaiaing about 500 -houfes,' but more fpacious and regular.... The town is .divided by a fmall creek,. which opens into .a rocky' and. dangerous- bayj The diffictlty of entering its harbour, in fome degree, injures its commerce. A confiderable quantity of grain Js annually exported hence, and a variety of merchandize imported; but rum, wine, fugar, tobacco, &c. are adrhiflible only into the port of Douglas", from whence other towns are fupplied. In the centre is Caftle-Rufhen, which overlooks the coun try for many miles; it was built in, 960 by Guttred, a prince of the Danifh line, who is buried in it. It (lands on a rock, and before the introduction of artillery, muft have been im pregnable. Its figure is irregular, faid to referable Elfinore; a ftone glacis ' furrounds it. It frill braves the injuries of time, and is a majeffick and formidable object. The early kings ufed to refide here, in barbarous pomp. The lady pf James the feventh Earl of Derby, (after his decollation for his attachment to royalty in- the civil wars) fought, in Caftle- Rufhen, 2n afylum with her children ; but when the re publican army, under Colonels Birch and Duckenfield, .with ten armed veffels, invaded this ifland, this fortrefs was- furrendered- at their firft fummons. Her gallant defence of Latham-houfe was remembered ; and though her. pride was hurt, her captivity was foftened by the generofity and refpeCt of the officers. Apartments in it are now occupied by the Liemt.-Governor. It THE ISLE OF MAN. 267 It is not exactly known when the caftle was built, as the Cquntefs of Derby, who was confined here, carried, after wards, away, the records of the ifle therein depofited, fome fuppofe to Copenhagen, where they were confumed by the late fire, others to fome part of Norway, &c. A ground plan of this formidable caftle is engraved in flate 3d. It appeared in evidence, in 1 791, that Caftle-Rufhen wa,stn a dilapidated ftate, and f that the meetings of the .le giflature are held in places ill-fuited to the dignity of their functions; the keys; affemble in a mean fmall building; the courts of chancery and common-law are held in an indif ferent apartment in Caftle-Rufhen. The place in the caftle ufed as a goal has but one apartment to receive all perfons committed for debt, or any, offence lefs than capital; this is fmall, dark, without any divifions, and altogether unfit for its purpofe. The dungeons in the interior ward of the caftle, appropriated- for' the reception of perfons conviCted of or charged with capital crimes, are ftill more wretched, and improper for the reception of any offender. The gaoler has a falary of 12I, perann. certainly too little." The Houfe of Keys has a publick library over it, but it is blocked up, and the books of moft value feleCled for the ufe of the academy. A draw-bridge, and ftone bridge, crofs the river at Caftletown. Formerly there was a handfome jpiazsza in the market-place, with a crofs* in the middle; at the old chapel, at the upper end, was buried Raynold, fon of Olave, king of Man in 1249, with his brother Magnus, and fome others. * The original intention of ere&ing croffes, whether in church yards or in. publick roads, was to remind people of the meritorious crofs and paffion of our blefTed Saviour Jefus Chrift; and of the {forty incumben-t on them to pray for the fouls of their departed tysethren.- — Hift. of Somerfet, vol. i. p. zi4> 4-to. 268 A TOUR THROUGH On the 1 6th of July 1698, Bifhop Wilfon laid the foun dation of a new chapel at Caftletown, which was built and paid for out of the ecclefiaftical revenues. " The Lord grant (fays he) that it may, when it is finifoed, continue a houfe of prayer to all ages." In 1 7 10 the library of Caftletown was finifhed, the greater part of the expence of which, amounting to 83I. 5s. 6d. was fubfcribed by the Bifhop. Subfcription 14I. 6s. 3d. " April 1 i, 1 701, (fays Bifhop Wilfon) I confecrated the chapel at Caftletown, the lord of the ifle being prefent, who defired me to give orders touching the feats, &c." When Bifhop Wilfon, in 1722, fufpended Archdeacon Horrdbin, he authorifed the Rev. Mr. Rofs, academical pro- feflbr, to officiate in his ftead until further orders ; in con fequence of the Governor's conduct, a few weeks after, the following letter was addreffed to him from the Bifhop : " To the Hon. the Governor of this Isle, " Having juft now had an account from the Rev. Mr. Rofs, whom I appointed to officiate in Caftletown chapel during the archdeacon's fufpenfion, that the doors of the faid chapel are fhut up, and that you have refufed to deliver him the keys, whereby the people are deprived of the pub lick worfhip of God, and the chapel of that town, which has ever been fubjefted to me and my predeceflbrs, is en deavoured to be made independent; I do therefore again complain againft your faid act, as a frefh inftance of your intrenching on the epifcopal authority, and which (if not fpeedily remedied) may open a gap for a much greater and more pernicious innovation. At a Tinwalcl court, 22d of June, 1722." This neat and elegant chapel terminates a. wide parade; the pulpit has a fattin damafk cloth pf crimfpn colour. The chapel THE ISLE OF MAN. 269 chapel is 8 1 feet by 24. The windows, notwithftanding an apparent uniformity, will be perceived, on a clofer infpeCtion, to be deeper on one fide than on the other. The monu ments are to the memory of Governor Horton, Governor Wood, Mr. Tyldefley, Mr. Quayle, and Mr. Callow, the latter of which is infcribed as under, on a neat marble : " Daniel Callow, efq; H. K. who, in difcouraging cir- cumftances, chearfully accepted a commiffion to attend the bufinefs of his country in the South of England, where he died, zealoufly engaged in the duty of that appointment, June 18, 1790, aged 39. As a grateful teftimony of their refpeCt for his virtues, publick fpirit, and fervices, the Houfe of Keys, with others his countrymen and friends, have caufed this monument to be erected." Caftletown is the refidence of John Lace, efq; the deem fter for the fouthern diftrict. [See pages 40, 163. J John F. Crellin, efq; deemfter for the northern diftrict, refides at Orrifdale. The former I had not the honour of knowing; but of the hofpitality and politenefs of both Mr. and Mrs. Crellin, every ftranger, who vifits that part of the ifland, muft bear the moft grateful and pleafing teftimony. Its general clean appearance, its fociety, the military, the vicinity, the pleafant walks to Reynoldfway, Scarlet, Stack,* &c. ; together with its contiguity to Douglas, Port le Mary, Port-iron, &c. all confpire to render Caftletown a very agreeable place. It has a market on Saturdays, and a fair in July, but has no regular butcher's fhops. ' The harbour of Derby-haven is a natural one of great capabilities. It has a collector, comptroller, riding-officer, fearcher, &c. *Stack, in the Galic language, fignifies a pyramidical rock which rifes out of the fea, and is detached from every thing elfe. The 270 A TOUR THROUGH The free-fchool comprifes two objects, the academiefc inftitution, andthe grammar-fchool, free for clafiical educa tion. The Rev. T. Caftley, who fucceeded Dr. Kippsx as chaplain, is the prefent mafter. [See p. 104, 105.J The Rev. Jofeph Stowell has alfo an academy for clafiical learning, at the Bowling-green, near Caftletown, in a pleat fant fituation. The free-fchool was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which was confecrated in 1250. This inftitutiort was eftablifhed by Bifhop Barrow, to fupply the church. They receive inftructions under an academick profeffor, who muft be M. A. from one of the Univerfities, for whom a decent falary is allowed, and provifion for three or four ftu- dents of the eftablifhment.* At Douglas; alfo, there is a benefaction for the education of two candidates for the mi- niftry; fo that the ifland affords a fufficient fhare of fchools for teaching the clafficks-, theology, and the arts and fciences. Longnefs-point is at the extremity of a peninfula, which is fome miles rounds and contains fome good herbage. To this peninfula St. Michael's ifland is joined by a high breafts work of about 100 yards in length. This fpot contains the-remains of a- circular fort, built by one of the Earls of Derby, the date 1667 over the door; it has a walk round' on the top, barraeks, &c. the walls are eight feet thick. It is" a pleafant walk of about two miles from- the town, at the entrance of Derby-haven, which is ftrongly protected by cannon, and by a courageous and well-difcipiined fet of troops, as well as- the inhabitants. On this ifland is alfo the remains of an old chapel, in- which is a folitary head-ftone, in memory of Henry Pearfon, *' Students r79'8', Mr: J. Allen, Mr. T. Stephens, Mr. Harrifon, Mr. Nelfon; affiftant preachers1, the Rev. Mr. Stowell, and 'Rev.1 Mr. -Gelling. a mariner, THE ISLE OF MAtf, 271 a mariner, of Whitehaven, who died April 24, 1782, aged 55; ; and his fon Thomas, aged 15. Some herring-hqufes are adjacent. Ballasalla is a village two miles from Caftletown, on the road which leads to Douglas; here Ruflien abbey rears " its ivy-vefted walls." " Fall'n fabrick ! pondering o'er thy time-trac'd walls, " Thy mould'ring, mighty, melancholy ftate; " Each object to the muting mind recalls " The fad vicifiitudes of varying fate." SoUTHEY. A lime-ftone quarjy is clofe to the village. Its cotton manufactory is at prefent unemployed, but fome experi ments are making, in order to fpin twine for the fifhing nets ; and from the progrefs already made, I hope it may foon be fet at work again. This village is well wooded, and a fpirit of planting pre vails in the upper end of it, about Deemfter Moore's, and Mr. De la Prime's, which are handfqme houfes. The abbey of St. Mary, of Rufhen, was founded in 1098, by Mac-manis; this eftablifhment confifted of an abbot and twelve monks of the Ciftertian order. From rigid aufterity, they degenerated at length to pride and luxury ; a third of the tithes of Man were added to their revenue) and their temporal dignity increafed; an abbot became a baron, held courts, could fhelter a criminal from the fentence of the lord's court, and try him by his own vafTals, It was fobjeCt to the abbey at Furnefs, In 1 192, the monks removed to Duff-glafs',.br Douglas, where they continued four years, and then returned to Ruflien, and flourifoed fome time after they were fupprefled . in England. In 272 A TOUR THROUGH In 1257, Richard, bifhop of die ifles, confecrated the) abbey church of St. Mary Rufhen, though it was begun 1 50 years before, and in that time had been the repofitory of many of their kings. It was liberally endowed and richly decorated. In 131 6, it was plundered by Richard de Mandeville, who, with a numerous train of Irifh, landed at Raynoldf- way, defeated the Manks under Warfield, or Barrule, and ravaged the country. Near the monaftery is a tomb of an abbot, with the infignia of temporal and fpiritual authority. Abbey bridge is in a romantick fpot, and is much noticed on account of its antiquity. The monks of Rufhen abbey wrote the three firft fheet9 of the account of Man, , publifhed by Mr. Camden; but all other of their works have proved as mortal as their monafteries. The number of computed quarterlands, formerly belong ing to the monaftery of Rufhen, were 99^, befides 66 mills, and 77 abbey cottages. By the laft returns the number of inhabitants were 3333 in Malew and Caftletown. The church is dedicated to St.- Lupus ; is has no vicarage-houfe. A fhort diftance to the eaft of Ballatrollage, about three miles from Caftletown, is a famous well, vifited for medical aid. Near Caftletown, fome traces of an earthquake, and of a volcanic eruption, have been obferved. According to an old hiftorian, in the reign of Ivar the third Prince of Wales, there happened a remarkable earthquake in the1 ifland, which much difturbed and annoyed the inhabitants.* In the road from Caftletown to Derbyhaven, you pafs the ruins of Mount Strange, a kind' of fommer-houfe, in for- * See Pratt's Gleanings, vol. i. p. 116. mer THE ISLE OF MAN. 273 riier times the fcenei of fociablefeftivity; the large room was about 36 feet by 24. " Jtfo more its arches echo to the noife " Of joy and feftive mirth: no more the giance " Of blazing taper through its windows beams, " And" quivers o'er thb undulating wave; " But naked ftarid the melancholy walls, " Lafti'd by the wintry tempefts, cold arid bleak, " That whittle mournful through the empty halls; i( And piece-meal crumble down the whole to duft.'' Michael Bruce. The rocky fhore about Caftletown Confifts of a baftard marble of a dark colour, but much interfected with lines of white fpar. It yields good lime, but requires much fuel. A place of execution, which is adjoining the town, is, happily., feldom or never wanted ; the fpirit of the criminal laws are mild, and the following are the only perfons whom I could Jearn had been executed. In 1735, William and James Clucas, and William Kelly, for burglary and rob bery; and in 1745, John Bridfon, of Ballafalla, for the murder of a young woman, who was pregnant by him. What a contraft to the number which, in the metropolis of England, have fuffered death from that period. In one year-, from 1793 to 1794, fixty-eight perfons were executed in London only; and from 2500 to 3000. perfons are an nually committed for trial ! ! In returning from the Round Fort, and in the fields in the vicinity of Caftletown, the caftle and place appear to great advantage, particularly the former, which looks formidable and fublime. " Nor is there ( fays Mr. Gilpin ) in travelling, a greater pleafure than when a fcene of grandeur burfts un- t expectedly #74 ¦* TOUR THROUGH" expectly on the eye, accompanied with foKje" accidental cir-* cumftance of the atmofphere, which harmonizes with it, and gives it double value." I, have already ftated, that this parifh has beeft expofed to the incurfionS of the enemy ; arid that it did not always enjoy that fweet tranquillity it poffeffes at prefent, we may further learn from the hiftorical documents. When Alexander, King r of Scotland, on the- death of Magnus, (fee page 10) began to feize the ifles; Ivar, who had married his widow, refqlved to defend Man^ and met, with great refolution, a numerous army under Alexander of Peafely, and John Comyne, who landed at Rannefway in 1270. Iyar,; though inferior in number, met them with a iefokitibn-natural to the Manks, but fell with- 537 of the flower of the people. And in 1 313, King Robert- Bruce fat down before the Caftle of Rufhen, which, : for fix months, was obftfoately defended by one Dingay Dowyll, though in whofe name we do not find. Of the Crownan line were nine princes, whowere all feu datories to the Kings- of Ehglaridy and often reforted to the Englifh court, where they were kindly received, 'and had penfions giveri them. Alexander III. as we have feen, with the other iflands conquered this, {fee page 10), which^ as parcel of that king dom, came into the hands of Edward I. wha directed his- warden, Huntercombe, to reftore it to John Baliol, who1 had done homage to him for the kingdom of Scotland. In $5th Edward I. is a record extant fo Mr. Pryhn-, of our King's right and feizure of the Ifle of Man* for his- wfe. It was granted) after difpofleflirig Henry de Bella Monte, to Gilbert de Makafkall during pleafure, who having expended THE ISLE OF Man. 275 expended 1215K 3s, 4d. in defence of it againft the Scots; and likewife laid out 380I. 17s, 6d, in victuals, which he? delivered to the governor of the caftle of Cariifle, to vic^ tual it againft the Scots; had both thefe fums allowed hirrij upon his petition, and was ordered to be paid'. For the fucceflfon of governors from Sir John Stanley's time, fee page 22. APPENDIX. APPENDIX. asanas e@apa c&arta, TTAVING noticed this act in pages 140, 141, and re collecting that it has not appeared in any work printed in England, I am induced to prefent it to "the 'reader in this place; together with its explariatory act, ' An ACT, for. the perfect Settling and Confirmation qf the Eftates, , Tenures, Fines, Rents, Suits, and Services of the Tenants of the Right Hon. James Earl of Derby, within the IJle of Man. , paffed at a Tynwald-Court, holden at St. John's, Chapel, within the faid IJle, the 4th day of Feb. 1703, by the faid James Earf of Derby, Lord of the faid IJle; Robert Mawdesley, efq;. 1 Governor; and the reft of his faid Lordjhifs Officers; and, twenty-four Keys, thp Reprefentatlves of the faid IJle . WHEREAS feveral difputes, queftions, and differences, have heretofore arifen and been contefted between the Lords of the faid Ifle, and their tenants, touching their eftates, tenures, fines, rents, fuits, and fervices, to the great prejudice of the lords, and impoverifhrnent of the tenants and people there, who, by that means, have been difcouraged from making fuch improvements as their eftates were and are capable of: for the abfolute and perpetual afcertaining where of, and the avoiding of all ambiguities, doubts, and .queftions that 278 APPENDIX. that may or might, at any time hereafter, arife, or grow, touching or concerning the fame, propofals were made unto the faid James EarJ.cf Derby^ now Lord of the faid Ifle, at Lathome, the 8th day of Sept. laft paft, by Ewan Chriftian, of Unerigg, in the county of Cumberland, efq; John Ste- phenfon, of Balladoole; and Ewan Chriftian, of Lewage, within the faid ifle, gentlemen; who, by an inftrument under the hands of the twenty-four Keys, now remaining upon re cord, were impowered to treat" concerning the fame, as well for and on behalf of thp.mfplyps, ay all and every the tenants within the faid ifle, in manner following : TinwAS . . . jft. .Ttiat-in cafe his lowdfhip would be pleafed fo t>-"i mrr' declare, -ajjid cp-nfiijm unto his tenants their ancient an^ cuijtpmary. eftates, of inheritance in foejr refpeCtive tene^ ments, defcendjble from anceftor.to.heh, according to the law? and cuftoms of the faid file, that then the faid tenants fhould, in confideration thereof, advance and pay unto his faid lord- fhip, the fame fines which they feverally and refpedtively paid for their ^feveral and refbeftive tenements, at the general fin ing, which was jri or about the -year, of our Lord lfj43 : except where any. tenant, or tenants, have or hath prie or more life or lives in being: and that then, and in fuchj:afe, he or they . Yhbuld' feverally and refpeftiyely pay two-thirds, qnly, qf dip faid general fine,tor their.'refpecf ivp tenements. Alienation. 2dly. That uppij the change of any tenant, by death "or ' alferiatipn, the; next fucceeding hejf, or alliance, fhould pay unto tlie lord of 'the faid ifle for the time, being, the third .%: part ofdhe faid entire fum which. was paid for a fine at foe feid- general fining, in manner following : that is to fay, in cafeof thejch.auge ©fit- tenant-by death, then the faid fine ihauld he qjajsbswtfera twelve months-, after; the death of fuch tenant : , and In' cafe pf the eliange pr removal of a tenant by alienation,, then thedaiwdhftuld.be paid immediately after ifoch alienation. mg.dp, . prppprvtipsably to the lands and tene- nsfints which fopjild defcend, or be aliened; and this tp conr tiniie jfprfcyfir hereafter, as a fixed and a certain fine, upon every APPENDIX. 2^9 every defcent and alienatiodi Provided, neverthelefs, intacks. that ali intacks, cottages, and milns, which, by the laws, and' cuftoms of the faid ifle, were and are reputed chattels, might be chargeable with debts, arid devifable by gift; grant, will, or affignmenf, as formerly aecuftomed, paying fuch fines re flectively as were paid, at the general fining afore'faia; to wit, the whole fine where tliere were no lives in bein'g, and two parts thereof only where there were, and ftill are, one er two lives in being; and a third part of the faid general fine, forever hereafter, upon every defcent or alienation, as aforefaid. 3dly. That the tenants of the abbey lam'ds, as weli as tiie' lord's tenants, (herald be included in the faid propofals> they and every of them paying the fame fines that were" agreed for, upon their late compofitlons, or leafes, made in or about the year of our Lord 1666, (except fuch as have one or more life Or lives yet in being, to pay two parts- oMy of the faid fine now) and a third part thereof always afterwards, upon the ad mittance of a new tenant, either upon.death, Pa? alienatipn, as aforefaid : and alfo yielding, paying, performing, arid doing the annual rents, cuftoms, fuits, and fervices, as formerly amd anciently accuftomed ; and that the tithes- arifing out of the abbey demefnes, and referved by Janaesy late Earl of Derby, upon the compofition by him made in1 foe year 1643; and afterwards by Charles, late Earl of Derb^i granted to bifhop Barrow, (fince deceafed) and his fiicceffors, for the ufe of the clergy of the faid ifle, fhould be rpferved, and forever he-re* after payable to them. 4thly. Thatthe double rents of. the quarterlands, Chief-rents'. as they were then payable, together with all other rents, fuits, and' fferyices payable out of thofe, or any other eftates within the faid ifle, fhould be referveu and "payable, -fw,> I- I.ery- after, as formerly, to the faid James Earl of Derby, his heirs and aiffigns, pr to fucli other perfon, or perfons, as for the time being fhpuld be, lord of the faid1 iile; and' that the an cient boons and carriages, payable by the refpeCtive Boons ani tenants,, ihauld be confidered at a; Tyn\vald*court. '"%"> 5thly. That ?8o APPENDIX. •5thly. . That if any tenant fhould then after pafs away any part qf his eftate, either to any of his children,tTicsby ferved by the Setting Q-ueft; and that the tenants' nSV.ueJm names fliould be entered in the court, rolls, as for merly ; and that when any tenant fliould cpme to any eftate, by death, alienation, or mortgage, fuch tenant fliould be ob liged to give notice thereof to the fetting queft of the parifo where fuch eftate lay, fome time .before the next (heading court that fliould be holden after he became tenant to the faid eftate, tq the intent that the (aid foqueft might prefent the faid tenant's name to the court, (which they fliould, upon oath, be obliged to do, at every (heading court, as oft as any fuch fhpuld happen) to the end that fuch tenant's name might be entered upon record, either by himfelf or fome other per fon in Iris behalf, whereby foe lord's fines might be had and received, at fuch time and in fuch manner, as. are hereinbe fore, for that purpofe, limited and appointed, without fraud or concealment : and if the faid tenant fliould refufe, or fail to have his name entered accordingly, at foe (aid court, that then fueh tenant fo refufing, or neglecting, fhouldj be fined in 31. to the lord for the time being; and that, upon the change of any tenant, by death, alienation, pr mortgage, one fingle perfon, and no more, fliould be admitted, unlets he be» Came tenant jn the right of his wife, and not otlierwife. Arid, laftly, That all the before-mentipned propofals, and every matter and tiling therein contained, flaQuld forthwith be paffed into a law, and confirmed by the authority of a Tyn- wald-court, faving always to the lord all fueh- royalties and regal ties, in- and concerning the premifes, as were invefted in his lordfhip by virtue pf bis prerogatives within the faid ille. And the faid James Earl of Derby,, out of his great zeal and care- for the welfare and quiet of his 'people, and to the end that fuch eftablifiHnent might be treated and agreed upon, as might complete and forever eonfiim a conftant ijautual love and APPENDLX* £$3 fWid, friendfliip between ,tbff ferdp of t&e fair} jflp and thejr people, did nominate an orrany of them.: all and lingular the tenants within the faid ifle, and members of the fame, their; heirs and affigns, and all and every other perfon, or perfons, claimings or to claim from, by; pr binder them, or any pf them, repectively, yielding, pay ing;, performing, and doing unto the faid James Earl pf Derby, his heirs and affigns, and all and every other the lords of the faid'ifle for (the time being, fuch yearly rents, boons, fuits, and fervices, 'as, herein-before are mentioned, and. whicli now are, pr heretofore have been, ufually paid and performed : and alfo paying unto the faid James Earl pf Derby, his heirs and affigns, fuch general and other fines- pertain, as in the faid pro pofals;. are alfo,. for that purpofe,. particularly mentioned and expreffed : -fayiqg always unto the faid James Earl of Derby, his heirs and affigns, and unto all and- every : other perfon and perfons, that (hall, at any time hereafter, become lords of the faid ifle, all fuch royalties, regalia, prerogatives, homages, fealties, efcheats, forfeitures, feizures, mures, and minerals, of what kind and, nature foeyer, quarries. and delfs of flag> flate, and ftone, franchifes; liberties; privileges, and .jurifdic- tions whatfoever, as now are, or. at any tirne heretofore have been invefted, in the faid James Earl of Derby, or in any of his anceftors, lords of the faid, ifle; and favfog, neverthelefs, to all and every; perfon and perfons, bodies politic and corpo rate, their heirs and ;fucceffprs, (other than -the faid James Earl of Derby, his heirs and affigns) all fuch actions, eftate, right, title, intereft, ufe, truft, claim, anddemand whatfoever, in law, or equity, as they or any of them have, may, fhould, or ought to: have,, pf, into, or out of the faid ifle, or any part thereof, and in fuch fort and' manner as, if this act had never been made:, Provided that fuch perfon or perfons, their heirs, executors, and adminiftrators, do yield* pay,; perform, and do unto the faid James Earl of Derby, his, heirs and affigns, and to all -and every other the lords of the faid- ifle for the time feeing, the feveral yearly rents, boons, fujts, and fervices, that have been accuftomarjly and ufually paid for the .eftates which they 286 APFfiSHJLS. they of any of thessi (kail, er may: niafee a'rif claim- or title toj aad d* alfo pay unto the laid -lb'f&afid lords of the faid ifie-foi1 fee time-being, aiif&sb! fines certaini for tfie fame, and i-rifuch manne* Sn'd form', a* in 'thief fatd' ^rop'Qfafe; are particularly rttentioried and agreed tintor and riot other-wife Arid it is further provided, fifoat nothing ifl the " faffd Having (nail im-- p^ach, or be p^fejwfteia}' to, or be eon:ftrued; to impeach-, or be* l&fejud-idkl to, tlie fettlement of nke riitM-e and quality- of fhe eJfcttes, tenures, JhsgB/r-eiMS, fuits, and flrviees-, which hereby j Aftd fef the (aid propdals are iagreedup^y&M iMerided''i*b'g «attcte"d, gr*fitedxandrcoMif*eldf anyth&Sgiri the faid falsing t@ th® (JoTi-tsary notwitbftaridiflg. -'-"- '---''"¦ - • '"." ' NftS, Tfca« iff is iafgrged arid re&id, at tlie Agriing' higsc^i ehat t&i^Sct feall-be rio way cofiftrued atid taken, to fete and d'MSctoge foe tenants afitf'JrihSbStaats of ffiisiftefrom giytag their beftaffiffepee, q? foppl-y,- for the defense of this ifibi'4fl'tirne- of wa*;- dr other imminear: darfg.ery iri fuch man-1 ^es.'as fhall be agre3&£- upon by -fee"; gGfer-floi*, officers, and twbiity-four kefs' o-f theiflaM- fertile titote being, as occafiori- m& necefSn!?' Will requtfe. (Si'grite#/ &c.-) I do hereby 'dfeeia^eimy-foH-flnd free eon&rit to this Act- 6f lte«fl«Si^t> (tfavingi and except fo much- thereof as relates to tlie tithes arififfg out of the abbey demefriesv therein- memfoaed to fe fold by Charles, late Earl o4 Derby, lei Biihop Barrow, and the feveral rectories of Kk. Gkfrft Lezayre, KK. Marown, Kk< Lonan, Kk. Coficka-fl-, Kk.'Matew, Kft. Maughold> Kirk Arbory/ Kb, Chrift feflien-, RK-, Mkhael, a**d> Kk. St. Anne< wMi their and1 every of their apperteria'nces, and alt tenths- and- titles- renewing, growing within, or- belong-* ing to the faid re&ories ; and all 6blati*6fisijgbventibris/ pennons, rights, and duties thereunto belonging or ap pertaining, which were, by indeMure, bearing date the Iff day of Nov. 1666, made between' the laid Gharles,- Earl APPENDIX. 287 Earl of Derbyj of the one part, and Ifaac, Lord Bifhop of Sodpr apd Man,, and Jonathan Fletcher, archdeacon of the faid ifle, of the other part, granted, bargained, and fold, to tlie bifliop. and archdeaoOrti their executors and afligns, for ten thoufand years, at the feveral yearly rents, and upon the trufts therein-mentioned; and fuch eftate, right, title, intereft, claim, arid demand, as I have or may, or, can claim or demand of, intoi or out of ithe fame, as if this act had never been made or paffed. Anji, I dp hereby confirm this, act, (except as aforefaid) according to my undoubted prerogative within the faid .Jflefei and require that the faid act be publiihed at the next Tyn-wald-eeurt, in ufual manner. DERBY. *At a Tynwald-ceurt, holden at St. John's- chapel, the'6th> of June, aamo Dom. 1704, The foregoing Act of Setderrient, being confirmed by our Honourable Lord, in manner as aforefaid, was this day pub- lickly ' proclaimed, upon the Tynwald-hill, according to an cient form and cuftom. As witnefs our hands, the day and year above-written. (Signed, &c.) INSULA! \ CTS likewife paffed by the Right Hon. MQNAS. J J\ jAME5, Earl of Derby, Lord of the faid Ifle, and by his (?overnor, officers,, and twenty- four Keys, the .Representatives thereof, at the before-meiitioned Court of Tynwald^ holden tlie fourth day of February, anno Dom. ,1703. WHEREAS by a claufe irt the before-mentioned aft of letflement, the refpective tenants and inhabitants o£ the faid. ifle are. obliged to pay (befides their: rents and fines. therein contained and expreffed). all other their dues, duties,, and carriages, as have been formerly accuftomed and, expreffed,. and that the fixing and afcertaining of the faid carriages is,. by the faid aft, left to the confideration of a Tynwaldrcouut. Be 1 288 APPENDIX. l|Be it therefore ordered, Ordained, enacted, and declared, by8 the authority of the faid Court of Tynwald, that the tenants and inhabitants of this ifle (hall pay and do their carriages to the lord as formerly acccuftomed, that is to fay, four carriages' from every quarter of land, and one carriage from every cot tage and intackholder, within the faid ifle : and the fame to be performed either by the labour of horfes, or fervice of men^ as the governor (hall think fit to order, and as hath been for merly accuftomed; arid that thefe carriages (hall be taken for the lord's ufe, as his lordflilp, or the goverrior for the time being, (hall think fit to employ them; and that no tenant fhall be exethpt from doing of thefe carriages, but fuch as have been legally accuftorned to be freed thereof. ¦ Alfo, Whereas by another claufe in the aforefaid act of fe'ttlement, all perfons who then had mortgaged, or fhould thenceafter mortgage, all or any part of his meffuages, lands> tenements, mills, cottages, intacks, or other hereditaments^ unto any perfon, and fliould not actually redeem the fame to his own proper ufe, within the-fpace of five years next after the commencement of the faid mortgage, , that, then fuch mortgage fhould be looked upon as an alienation, and the mortgagee admitted as tenant to the fame, in fuch manner, and on fuch terms, as in and by the faid claufe is fully men tioned arid expreffed. And forafmuch as it is conceived that feveral fraudulent bargains may be made, by letting of lands, tenements, mills, cottages, intacks, and other hereditaments, for the fecurity of money, under other notioris than that of a mort-<, gage, to defraud our honourable lord of his fine : Be it there-^ fore ordered, ordained, and enacted, by the authority aforefaid, that all fuch "bargains as (half hereafter be made", and given for the fecririty of ariy furri of money, upon lands, tenements, mills, cottages, intacks, and other hereditaments, as aforefaid^ longer than for the term of five years, fhall be declared and taken to be a mortgage within the intendrnent of the faid' act, unlefs the Court of Chancery within this ifle (hall adjudge it otherwife : 'and that the mortgagee Ihall be liable to pay fuch fine CHR 1ST I ANUS VII. REX DANIi, G E O R G I O III. MAGNJ BRITANNIyE REGI, S. D. pHRISTlANUS Septimus, Dei gratia, rex Dania, Norvegia, ' Vandalorum, Gothorumque, dux Slefuici, Hojfatia,, Stormaria, atque Ditt- marfue, comes in Oldenburg ac Delmenhorji, &c. »&c. Sereniffimo ac poteritiffimo principi domino Georgia, fertio. eadem gratia, Magna Britannia, Francia, et Hibernia regi, fidei defenfori, duci Brunfvicenfi, et Luneb.urgenfii, Sacri Romani Impe rii Archithefaurario,- et Electori, &c. &c. fr'atri, affini, et confanguineo, et amico noftro carif- fimo, falutem ! Sereniffime et potentiffime prin- ceps, frater, affinis, confanguinee, et amice carif- fime ! Annuentes precibus fubditi cujufdam Majeftafis Veftrse, viri eruditi, et linguarum Orir entis peritiffimi, Collegii Academise Oxonienfis Socii Gul. Jones, qui nobis defiderantibus, opus hlftoricum 'vita Naderi Shah £ Perfico in Gallicum idioma a fe magna cum diligentia tranflatum nuper- in lucem emiftt, eoque labore feliciter exantlato, expedtationi noftrse ex affe fatisfaciens calculum noftrum meruit, hoc ei noftrx beneV-olentise teftimonium, quod a nobis fibi decenter expetiit, denegare noluimus, fed amicitia Majeftatis Veftne jn nos iincera freti eundem dementia, et benevolent im t 194 1 ejus regia, pro eo quo ipfa bonas literas, et earum cultores profequi dignatur, favore eximio, de meliori cotnmendatum effe amice et fraternif- cupimus ; gra- tiam eo ndmine Majejlati Vefira infignem habituri, et fi qua in re fiojumus, xeferre paratiffimi ; cui, quod reliquum eft, divini numinis tutelam ad perenne furrtmse felicitatis incrementum toto animo agjprecamur. - Dabantur in regia. noftra. Chrifiianburg die XV. menlis Februarii, anno 177 1 regnjque noftri fexto. * < - ¦ ' MAJESTATIS VESTR^E Bonus Frater, Affinis, Confanguineus et Amicus, CHRISTIAN. Ad Regem Magnse Britannise, Dominum Qeorgium III, O S T E N. A MONSIEUR MONSIEUR LE BARON OSTEN. MONSIEUR, SOUFFREZ que je vous temoigne ma rc- connoiffance pour la flatteufe diftinftion dont Sa Majefte a bien voulu m' honprer. Je regarde comme un des plus grands bonheurs de ma vie d'etre ne dans le fiecle d'un Roi, qui fait emplok'er et recompenfer les talens. . De combien ce bonheur n'augmenteroit-il pas, fi mes deffeins et mes occupations dans ma patrie, me permet- toient d'aller me jetter aux pieds de'Sa Majefte, et de contempler dans fa Capitale le fecond re- nouvellement des Eettres et des Beaux Arts. Cependant, d'ici meme, je ne perdrai jamais de vue les influences propices que fa protection re- pand fur le favoir, et fi je vis aflez pour finir U Hiftoire gener(ik de ceSiecle, ouvrage,que j'ai pro- jette depuis long items, ce fera au nom de CHRE TIEN VII. que je croirai devoir fon vrai luftre. Permettez-moi, Mpnfieur, d'ajouter en ce lieu une reflexion qui m'a frappe en recevant le diplome, par lequel Sa' Majefte m' agrege a Sa Societe Roi'ale des Sciences, On ne fauroit, en voi'ant un tel afile des belles lettres s'elever dans un empire du nord, s'empecher d'admirer les decrets de la providence dans la revolution des evenemens. Ce fut de la Qpthie que fortirent reffaim C 196 1 1'eflaim de courageux guerriers, qui eteignirent la lumie're du favoir dans I'Europe en arrachant aux Romains 1' empire du monde ; c'eft dans ees memes regions que le favoir revit fous les aufpices d'un Monarque qui l'apprecie, et le protege. J'ai 1'honneur, Monfie'ur, d'etre votre Ires' humble, " et tres obei'ffant Serviteur, 12 Mai 1771'. W. JONES. ERRATA. Intr. vi. for Ahcrman re>d Aherman. ' xx. tin. 13. for wire read are. xxiii. line 10. for Tibet read Badakhjhan. Page 43. lin. 7. dele his before Mefhed. t 118: line 21. for deferted read went over. 166. lin. 17. for 656 read 636. 176. tin. 6. for heads read hands* YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 04058 7751