YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Bought with the income of the ALFRED E. PERKINS FUND A TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD, &c. A TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY GREAT ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. WITH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNTS OF THE COUNTRY, TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND GENTLE MEN'S SEATS ON AND ADJACENT TO IT; ILLUSTRATED BY PERSPECTIVE VIEWS OF THE MOST SELECT AND PICTURESQUE SCENERY. To which is added A CORRECT MAP OF THE COUNTRY Three Miles on each side of the Road ; planned from a Scale of One Inch to a Mile. BY ARCHIBALD ROBERTSON. IN TWO PARTS. PART I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, CHARLES-STREET, ST. JAMES'S-SQJJARE ; AND WILLIAM FADEN, C H A R I N G-C ROSS. M.DCC.XCII, TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS GEORGE PRINCE OF WALES, ire. ire. SIR, Your Royal Highness hav ing graciously condescended to per mit me to inscribe the following work to you, I cannot present it to the public, without testifying how deeply sensible I am of being thus privileged to throw it under your royal protection. DEDICATION. I am perfectly aware, that no me rit of the performance can possibly give it pretensions to so exalted a patronage ; yet I flatter myself to escape the imputation of vanity, if I am permitted to ask, to whom could this publication be with more propriety addressed, than to him who is born to be the hereditary de fender and governor of that country ; the Topography, and Picturesque Beauties of which, it is the prin cipal design of the following pages to illustrate? That your Royal Highness may long live to be the ornament of so- DEDICATION. ciety, the delight and boast of our nation, and of your august Parents, is the earnest prayer of, SIR, your Royal Highness's most grateful, most dutiful, and most devoted servant, ARCHD. ROBERTSON. Charles-street, St. James's-square, Jan. 1, 1792, INTRODUCTION. 1 hough many ingenious and useful publications, as Itineraries to this country, have answered their intended purposes ; yet serving only as guides to the post courier on the high roads, it must be allowed more is wanting, and more is desired by the curious and inquisitive traveller. The difficulty of obtaining any satisfac tory information in travelling is so generally felt and acknowledged, as to require no proof; to obviate that difficulty is the chief aim of the present publication. The author makes no pretensions to lite rary merit ; it is out of his sphere. His in tentions are to give a work in its composition simple ; in its information useful ; and in some degree entertaining. VI INTRODUCTION. In the descriptive parts, he wishes to con vey similar ideas to those by which he was impressed at the moment he made his obser vations. — To give decided judgment, la vishly to praise, or severely to censure, he equally avoids ; and leaves it to the judi cious traveller to form opinions for him self; towards which he hopes some assist ance will be found, in the perusal of these pages. The prints which serve to illustrate this work, are not ideal but Real Views, accu rately taken on the spot by the author for the purpose ; and the plates were all en graved by himself: he therefore presumes he may with some degree of confidence, present them to the public as just repre sentations. In describing the various subjects in a tour of this extent, similar ideas must recur, and similar expressions unavoidably be made use of ; he hopes the indulgent reader will im pute such repetitions to their real cause • INTRODUCTION. Vll which he doubts not will be rendered less exceptionable by the consideration, that each separate sketch is a whole, and uncon nected with any other. This being a first essay, and the only work of the kind carried into execution ; it must be supposed liable to omissions and some incorrectness : the Author can only say, if any gentleman will kindly condescend to point out such defects, and an Appendix should be found necessary, he will not fail to pay every possible attention to his com munications. CONTENTS TO PART I. SECTION I. County of Middlesex, page 1. — City of London, 2. — London Bridge, 3. — Black- friars Bridge, ib. — Westminster Bridge, 4. — Saint James's Park, 5. — The Queens Palace, 6. — St. James's Palace, ib. — The Green Park, 7. — Hyde Park, 8. — Ken sington, 10. — Kensington Palace, ib. — Camden House, 1 1 . — Holland House, ib. — Chelsea, 12. — Chelsea College, ib. — Rane- lagh, 13. — Hammersmith, ib. — Chisxvick, ib. — Chiswick House, ib. — Turnham Green, 14. — Seat of Lord Heathfeld, ib.— Gun ner sbury House, 15. CONTENTS. SECT. II. ,Kew Bridge, 17.— County of Surrey, 18.— KeWt 19. — Royal Gardens ofKezv, 20. — Richmond, 23. — Richmond Palace, 25. — Richmond Gardens, 26.— Richmond Park, 19.— The Duke of Clarence's Villa at Petersham, 30. Petersham, 31. — Earl of Dys art's Seat, ib. — Richmond Bridge, 32. — Seat of Owen Cambridge, Esq. ib. — Marble Hill, ib. — House of Lady Diana Beauclerk, 33. — House of the late Duke of Montague, ib. — Twickenham, ib. — House of Sir George Pocock, ib. — House of the celebrated Mr. Pope, ib. — Strawberry Hill, 34. — Seat of the Duke ofQueensberry, 35. — House of Mr. Keane, 36. — Twickenham Park, ib. SECT. III. Brentford, Sl.—Sion House, 38.— Isleworth, 41. — Sion Hill, ib. — Scat of John Robin- CONTENTS. XI son, Esq. 42. — Osterley Park, ib. — Spring Grove, 45. — Whitton Place, 46. — Houns- slow, 48. — Roman Camp near King's Ar bor, ib. SECT. IV. Retrospect of the Country from London to Hounslow, 49. — Lambeth, 50. — Lambeth Palace, ib. — Vauxhall, 51. — Batter sea, 51. — Fulham and Putney, 53. — Approach to Richmond by the River described, ib. — Utility and Consequence of the Thames to the Metropolis, 54. — Hounslow Heath, 55. — River Crane, ib. — Cranford Park, 56. — Dawley, ib. — Longford, ib. — Roman Way near Arlington, 57. — Colnbrook, ib. — County of Buckingham, 58. Percy Lodge, 59. — Langley Park, 60. — Ditton Park, 61 . Country from Colnbrook to Slough, ib. — Slough, 63. — House of Dr. Herschell, 63. Xli CONTENTS. SECT. V Windsor Castle, 65.— Improvements by their present Majesties in Windsor Castle, 61 . — Town of Windsor, 72. — Old Windsor, 74. — The little Park, 74. — Windsor great Park,l5. — Royal Forests,! 6. — Cranbourne Lodge, 76. — St. Leonard's Hill, ib. — Cce- sar's Camp, and other Traces of Antiquity in Windsor Forest, 77. — Eton College, 78. —Village of Eton, 80. SECT. VI. Earl of Chesterfield's Villa, si.—/ 'illage of Stoke, ib.— Stoke Park, m.— Farnbam Royal, ib.— Village of Burnham, 83.— Lady Ravensworth's House, \b.— Appear ance of the Country on approaching Maid enhead Bridge, ib.— Village ofTaploe, 84. CONTENTS. Xlll -Taploe House, 84. — Cliefden House, ib. — Hedsor Lodge, 87. House of Sir George Toung, 88. SECT. VII. Description of Berkshire, 89. — Maidenhead Bridge, 91. — Town of Maidenhead, 91. — Seat of P. Powney, Esq. 93. — Description of the Country from Maidenhead to the Race Ground, 94. — Seat of Charles Am bler, Esq. ib. — Hall Place, the Seat of Sir William Este, Bart. ib. — Description of the Country for some miles beyond Maiden head Race Ground, 95. — Village of Shot- tersbrook, ib. Account of Mr. Henry Dodwell, ib. — Lawrence Waltham, 96. Seat of Arthur Vansittart, ib. — < — House of Mrs. Philips, ib. — House of Mr. Ximenes, 97. — Seat of J. Lee Parrot, Esq. ib. — Village of Hare Hatch, ib. — Village of Ruscombe, ib. — House of Lord Chief Baron Eyre, 98. — Village of War- grave, ib. — Residence and Theatre of the XIV CONTENTS. Earl of Barrymore, ib.— House of Mr. Hill, 99. SECT. VIII. Park Place, 101 .—Description of a Druid Temple, 107 .—Observations respecting the Druids, their Temples, and Worship, with some historical Facts relating to that People and the Island of Jersey, 109. — County of Oxford, 110. — Henley upon Thames, 111. — Opinion of Antiquarians respecting Hen ley, 112. — Henley Bridge, 113. — De scription of the Country round Henley, ib. — Twyford, 114. — CavershamPark, 116. Village of Sunning, 118 . — White Knights, ib. — Early Court, 119. — New Road from Windsor to Reading, ib. SECT. IX. Town of Reading, 121. — Abbey at Reading, 123. — Stratum of Oysters found on Cats- grove Hill near Reading, 125. — House CONTENTS. XV of Edward Bower, Esq. 116. — House of Mr. Belgrave, 126.— Seat of J. Belgrave, Esq. 127. — Village of Theal,ib.—Engle- field House, 128. — Village of Bradfield, 129. — Padworth, 1 30. — Aldermanston, 131. — Silchester, ib. — Account of Roman Ways, 132. — Village of ' Woolhampton, 133. Seat of Mrs. Crew, ib. — Dunsted Park, 134. — Village of Thatcham, 135. — Shaw, the Seat of Sir Joseph Andrews, 136. SECT. X. Town of Newbury, 137 . — First Battle of Newbury, 138. — Second Battle of New bury, 142. — High Clere Park, 145. — Speen, 147. — Opinion of Antiquarians re specting Roman Ways, ib. — Donnington Grove, 148. — Lamborne River, 149. — Donnington Castle, 150. — Siege of Don nington Castle, 151. — Donnington Castle formerly the residence of Chaucer, ib. — Benham House, 151. INDEX TO THE PLATES. Abbey Gate at Reading, — facing page • 23 Benham Hou.e, — — — 152 Bridge at Newbury, — — — 138 Chalk Cavern, at Park Place, — — 104 Cliefden House, — — — 84 Donnington Grove, looking West, — 148 Donnington Grove, looking North, — 143 Druid Temple, at Park Place, — — 108 Great Arch, at Park Place, — — 102 Green Park, Lodge in, — — — 8 Hedsor Lodge, — — — 86 Hedsor Lodge, taken from beyond the River, — 88 Henley Bridge, — — — 113 High Clere Park, — — — 1 .r Kew Bridge, — — — Xj Longford, View at, — — r6 Maidenhead Bridge, approach to, — q0 Maidenhead Bridge, View of, — q. Maidenhead Bridge, View from, looking Eastward, 04 Newbury, View of, — . j , _ Park Place, general View of, 100 Queen's Palace, — g Reading, View of, — Richmond Hill, View from, Richmond Bridge, — Richmond Hill, looking Southward, Sion Lodge, — Tomb at Park Place, — __ White Knights, — Windsor Castle, from the left of Slough, g, Windsor, from St. Leonard's Hill, _ _g Windsor Castle, from the River, - 66 Young, Sir George, View of his House, s $ 121 -432 5 + 38 10; TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY, ire. SECT. I. 1 h e county of Middlesex extends, nearly twenty-four miles in length ; eigh teen in breadth ; and ninety -five in circum ference. It is bounded, on the north by Hertfordshire ; on the south by the river Thames, which divides it from Surrey ; on the west by the river Colne, which sepa rates it from Buckinghamshire ; and on the east by the river Lee, which parts it from Essex. The two very opulent cities of London and Westminster, although distinct in their B 2 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM government and jurisdiction, are actually united, and go under the appellation of the Metropolis :— they stand in the south-east quarter of this county, which is the most populous and wealthy of any in Great Bri tain. Middlesex contains seventy-three pa rishes, and five market-towns ; exclusive of the metropolis, collectively denominated London. A gravelly soil prevails over great part of this county ; which contributes to the salubrity of the air, and healthiness of its inhabitants. LONDO N. London, the metropolis of Great Britain, justly esteemed the first city in Europe, for wealth, commerce, and extent ; is nobly situated upon a declivity on the banks of the river Thames : the influx and reflux of which regularly washing the lower parts of it. — An elevated and gravelly situation ; the manner of paving, lighting, and cleaning the streets ; with the very surprising me- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 3 thod by which the whole city and its sub urbs are amply supplied with water, — leave it unrivalled by any other in the universe. Here, health, comfort, convenience, and the luxuries of life, are to be found in a very superior degree. Over the Thames, are three magnificent stone bridges, viz. London, Blackfriars, and Westminster. The former of these, is of great anti quity ; and is said to have been built, in its original form, about the year 1209 : hav ing had a row of houses on each side, form ing a narrow street ; which being found inconvenient and dangerous, was removed ; since which period the bridge has under gone many alterations and repairs, and has been widened and modernized. It extends nine hundred and fifteen feet in length, and forms a spacious road of communication be tween the city of London and borough of Southwark. Blackfriars bridge, was begun in 1760, and completed in 1769. It consists of nine 4 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM eliptical arches, and extends near a thou sand feet in length. Over each pier is a recess, supported by two Ionic columns, and two pilasters, which stand on a semicircu lar projection of the pier. Its width is for ty-four feet, and the height of the balus trade, on the inside, is four feet two inches. This elegant and costly structure was built, at the expence of the city of London, from a design, and under the direction of Robert Milne, Esq. — and, to the astonish ment and dismay of our enemies, was un dertaken in the midst of an expensive war. Westminster bridge, is allowed to be one of the first in Europe for elegant simplicity and grandeur ; extending twelve hundred feet in length, and about forty-six in breadth : it has fifteen semicircular arches, with a se- mioctagon recess over each pier ; twelve of which are covered with half domes. It was completed in 1747, about twelve years after its foundation was laid ;— was built, at the public expence, and is com puted to have cost £.390,000; and forms LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 5 the communication between the city of Westminster and the Surrey shore. These three magnificent bridges, besides being the greatest ornament to the noble river on which they stand ; form approaches to the cities of London and Westminster, in a style of elegance and grandeur not to be met with elsewhere: and being well paved and lighted must, at first view, whe ther by day or night, impress the minds of foreigners and natives with a just idea of the consequence and splendour of the wealthy metropolis to which they belong. The parks, at the west end of the town, where the public have at all times liberty to resort, for air and recreation, are wor thy of observation. Saint James's Park, in which the very an cient and royal palace of that name stands, is of considerable extent, and is nearly di vided by a canal in the center. On the south and north sides, are avenues of stately trees, which afford an agreeable shade in the summer, and shelter in the winter sea- 6 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM son. The walks are spacious, well gravel led, and kept in excellent order ; and are much resorted to, by all ranks and degrees of people, particularly in the spring and summer months. At the west end of Saint James's Park, stands the Queen's Palace ; which, though it might be esteemed an elegant house for a subject, is by no means possessed of that magnificence which ought to adorn the man sions of royalty. This building went for merly by the name of Buckingham House ; having been the property of and built by Sheffield Duke of Buckingham. It is now the town residence of their Majesties and royal family. The apartments of this pa lace are elegantly furnished : It contains a valuable collection of pictures by the first masters ; and the library is magnificent It is with regret, Saint James's Palace must be passed over in silence : to describe it, would only bring to our remembrance, how much it is to be lamented, that the so vereign of Great Britain, has not a palace LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 7 in his metropolis, equal in magnificence to those of other monarchs ; and more be coming the dignity of the wealthy and powerful realms, over which he so happily reigns. The Green Park, is situated on the north side of Saint James's Park ; running parallel to the street which leads to the great west ern road : and though of less extent than the latter, has greatly the advantage of si tuation. From the high ground on the north side, where there is a reservoir of water surrounded by a gravel walk, look ing southward, is a most delightful view terminated by the Surrey hills. From hence proceeding west, we descend a small valley through a delightful grove, on the right of which stands the deputy -ran ger's house (now inhabited by Lord Wil liam Gordon), which being of a pictu resque form, and the grounds around it, though in miniature, being laid out in great taste by the possessor, present a most pleas ing and beautiful scene. The herds of 8 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM cattle feeding around ; the great number of fashionable company frequently to be seen here ; together with the pleasantness of the prospects — conspire to render this spot as uncommon as it is charming. Hyde Park, is situated at the western extremity of London ; extending south and north from the great western road to Oxford road, and west from the obelisk at Hyde Park Corner (whence the measure ment of the great western road is taken) to Kensington ; being near two miles. The ground here is much varied and beautiful, affording many delightful scenes. This park is divided by a noble piece of water, called the Serpentine River ; — supplied by a con stant running clear stream, which rises near Bays-water, and falls into the Thames at Westminster. Over this water is a bridge and road where it enters Kensington gar dens ; beyond the bridge it continues its serpentine course through part of the gar dens, and imperceptibly vanishes among its pleasant groves. Hyde Park abounds with LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 9 many venerable and stately elms, and a great variety of other trees ; which are finely grouped, and afford much picturesque beau ty. This being the only park open to all who may choose to take the air in car riages or on horseback, is much resorted to ; and, by the example of an amiable young prince, has of late become the fa shionable ride and promenade ; which at particular times exhibits an assemblage of elegance, beauty, and fashion, together with such an incredible number of sumptu ous and costly equipages, as are not to be paralleled in any other part of the globe : and, while it proves to what degree of luxury this country is arrived, it holds out to our view the immense wealth of the in habitants of the magnificent city to which this is an appendage. 10 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM KENSINGTON. Kensington is a considerable village, near two miles from Hyde Park Corner ; has many good houses, a handsome square, and a good church, which is a modern build ing. As we enter Kensington, a royal palace stands on the right, towards the western part of the gardens. This spot was for merly the seat of Albert de Vere, ancestor of the Veres, Earls of Oxford, to whom it was given by William the Conqueror. It was likewise the seat of the Lord Finch, high chancellor of England, afterwards Earl of Nottingham ; was purchased by King William III. who built a royal palace here, and made extensive gardens in the style of those times. Kensington Palace is by no means large ; nor are the apartments mag nificent. The gardens have been, at succes sive periods, improved : lately they have been much altered and modernized ; and LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 11 they are open for the recreation and a- musement of the public, under some restric tions. This palace has been the temporary residence of successive kings and queens of England, from the time of William III. to his late Majesty George II. who died here. In early times, Kensington gave the title of Baron to the Earl of Warwick and Holland. A little beyond Kensington, on the right, is Camden House, once a noble retreat, but now converted into a boarding school for young ladies. Adjoining to this, at the summit of a spacious lawn, which gently rises from the road, stands Holland House ; a venerable and stately Gothic structure : it is said to have been built by Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; was the seat of the late Lord Holland ; and is now the property of the present Lord of that name, a minor. It is pleasantly situat ed ; commanding views over the Surrey hills to the south ; and is well screened by wood from the north. 12 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM CHELSEA. Chelsea is a large and populous village ; situated on the banks of the Thames, about a mile west from Saint James's Park. Here stands a magnificent College (which is seen from the western road) founded by Charles II. and completed by King James II. and William III. for sick and wounded soldiers, or those who have served in the army twenty years. The number of ordinary pensioners is above 400, besides officers of the College, and near 9000 out-pension ers. The army pays poundage ; and every officer and soldier gives one day's pay in the year to this fund. The College was built by Sir Christopher Wren ; and it af fords every convenience for so laudable and benevolent an institution. A bronze sta tue of King Charles II. stands opposite the center of the building, next the river. Near this formerly stood an elegant seat, the property and residence of the late Earl LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 13 of Ranelagh ; the greatest part of the gar dens belonging to which have been parcel led out, and sold in lots ; and is now occu pied by buildings. The house has been converted into a place of elegant summer amusement ; where a band of vocal and in strumental performers attend in the even ing for the entertainment of the company. The Rotunda, which stands in the gar dens, is a superb room, 1 50 feet in diame ter ; is elegantly lighted, and is much re sorted to by the most fashionable company in the kingdom. A little more than a mile from Kensing ton, we pass through Hammersmith ; a long and scattered village ; on the left of which at a small distance from the road, is the seat of the late Lord Melcomb. A little further, by the river, stands the village of Chiswick ; near to which is a small but handsome house built by the late Lord Burlington ; quite in the style, and much resembling an Italian villa. The house is greatly admired, and esteemed a 14 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM perfect piece of architecture. Rows of no ble cedars grace the approach to it ; and the gardens are laid out with taste ; hav ing been altered and improved by the late ingenious Mr. Kent. This elegant little villa belongs to his Grace the Duke of De vonshire ; and contains a collection of va luable pictures. Near the road, on the left, at Turnham- Green, is a small seat which was the resi dence of the late Lieutenant-General Lord Heathfield : whose well known military services gained him the esteem of his king and country ; and particularly his gallant defence of the important fortress of Gi braltar, against the combined forces of France and Spain in the late war. This little villa is now the property of the pre sent Lord Heathfield ; and in the time of the late noble possessor was altered and im proved (as far as any thing on so small a scale would admit) with taste and judg ment, under the direction of Mr. William Aiton, jun. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 15 A little beyond Turnham-Green on an eminence in sight from the road, on the right, stands Gunnersbury House, which was built by Mr. Webb, son-in-law to the justly celebrated architect Inigo Jones. It is a stately building, and has an elegant por tico to the back front ; is well sheltered with wood, and its gardens are laid out in a good style. This seat was the property and residence of her late Royal Highness the Princess Amelia, aunt to his present Majesty. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 17 SECT II. A little beyond the six-mile stone, the road to Kew and Richmond branches off to the left. Here lately stood a wooden bridge over the Thames, which was taken down, and is rebuilt of stone, from a design by Mr. Paine. This new structure, though of considerable dimensions, by no means claims our admiration for its proportions, so much as several others on the same river ; its width being much too contracted for its length and height ; which disproportion ne ver fails to lessen the dignity of the object, on our approach to it. There is a handsome balustrade on each side ; but no pavement for foot passen gers, nor recesses for shelter in case of danger : It is, however, an elegant struc- C 18 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM ture, a great ornament to the river, and becomes a picturesque object, when viewed from many parts of the neighbourhood. — Being private property, a toll is levied from passengers of every description, which pro duces a considerable revenue. COUNTT OF SURREY. Kew bridge leads to the county of Sur rey ; which is bounded by the Thames on the north, by Sussex on the south, on the east by Kent, and on the west by Berkshire and Hampshire : It is about thirty-four miles in length, twenty in breadth, and one hun dred and twelve in circumference ; contains one hundred and forty parishes, thirteen market-towns, four hundred and fifty vil lages ; and lies in the province of Canter bury, and diocess of Winchester. — Its chief produce is corn, box and walnut-tree ; and its rivers are the Thames, the Mole, the Wey, and the Wandle, abounding with a variety of excellent fish. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 19 The Mole rises near Oakley, and run ning eastward for several miles along the skirts of Sussex, takes a north-west direc tion ; and at the bottom of Box-hill, near Darking, disappears at a place called the Swallow, and forces a passagetmder ground, for more than two miles, to Leatherhead ; — where it again springs up, and continues its course northward, and falls into the Thames nearly opposite to Hampton Court. In the northern part of this county, near the Thames, and towards the borders of Kent, the soil is rich and productive, par ticularly in corn and hay ; many other parts of it are sandy, and consist of barren heaths. The air is reckoned mild and healthy, in the most cultivated parts, but more bleak and harsh in its waste and barren tracts. Kew is situated on the Thames, opposite to Brentford ; is an unconnected village, surrounding a level spot called Kew Green, and is composed of many handsome houses and small villas. — At its western extremity, on the left, is a royal palace, which shall 20 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM hereafter be particularly mentioned ; and nearly opposite to this, on the right, close to the river, stands an ancient edifice be longing to his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. On the Green, is a small but neat church, which was a chapel of ease to Kingston upon Thames, but now is a distinct vicarage ; it was built upon ground given by Queen Ann, at the expence of the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood of Kew. ROTAL GARDENS OF KE W. The pleasure gardens of Kew were be gun by his Royal Highness the late Prince of Wales, father to his present Majesty ; were much improved by the late Princess Dowager of Wales ; and were completed under the direction of his present Majesty. These gardens contain nearly one hundred and twenty acres ; and though originally a dead flat, being forced by art, at a very considerable expence, now exhibit a great LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 21 variety of beautiful scenery. The palace stands on the north side of the gardens ; it is a low neat building, and though not magnificent, serves as a temporary retire ment for their Majesties, and the royal fa mily. Beyond a spacious lawn, on the south front, in view from this mansion, is a hand some piece of water; the banks of which are ornamented by shrubberies and other woody scenery. These gardens are between two and three miles in circumference ; are adorned by a variety of temples and other buildings, chiefly in the Chinese and Turk ish style of architecture, after the designs of Sir William Chambers, and some others : — the most conspicuous of these is the Pagoda, which stands on a delightful spot near the south side of the gardens, and is intended to imitate a Chinese Taa. — This edifice is built on a regular octagon base, forty-nine feet in diameter : the superstructure is of the same form, ten stories high, regularly diminishing in height and breadth, each 22 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM having a projecting roof, round which is a gallery inclosed by a rail ; the whole mak ing one hundred and sixty-three feet in height : the stairs which lead to the differ ent stories are in the center of the building. The botanic gardens at Kew, were first formed by her Royal Highness the late Prin cess Dowager of Wales, in 1760; chiefly un der the direction of the Earl of Bute : and, in a short space of time, a very considerable progress was made in collecting and propa gating plants. After the death of her Royal Highness, descending to their present Ma jesties, they have, under their auspices, been brought to a degree of perfection far ex ceeding any other of the kind in the uni verse. Kew gardens, are supposed to contain a- bove five thousand different species of plants (among which are many of the most rare from every part of the known world); a number which nothing but the most unremitting assiduity, combined with the most unbound ed liberality, could produce in so short a LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 23 period. They are kept in the most perfect order ; have been conducted, from their first formation, under the sole management of Mr. William Aiton, botanic gardener to his Majesty ; to whom, as a professional man, they do infinite credit ; as may be seen by a catalogue of the plants cultivated in Kew gardens, in three volumes large octavo, en titled Hortus Kewensis, lately published by him. RICHMOND. About two miles from Kew, and eight from the metropolis, is the village of Rich mond : it is built on the declivity of a hill of considerable height ; extends southward to the gates of Richmond park, and is more than a mile in length. — The great number of excellent houses, with a variety of ele gant villas, of which it is composed ; the va rious and extensive views it commands, over a rich and highly cultivated surrounding country, adorned in a very superior degree 24 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM by nature and art, give it a claim to supe riority over most others in this country. From hence we view the beautiful Thames, which washes the base of the hill on which this village stands, gliding in meanders through verdant meadows in the valley beneath. Sometimes it is only to be seen, in imperfect glances, through the rich sce nery of the grounds which overhang its banks ; at others more distinctly, assuming various appearances, as the situation from whence it is viewed is changed. — And though there can be nothing in nature more beautiful or elegant than the lines formed by the course of a noble river ; yet when partially screened from the eye by a variety of intervening objects, they appear to greater advantage, and new graces are added to those which seemed to want no artificial assistance. The opposite shore of the river is richly adorned with beautiful lawns, delightful villages, and elegant seats ; and whether we view this charming spot from the banks of the river, or, remaining LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 25 on it, survey the surrounding country, the eye is equally enchanted, though with land scapes of very different composition. At Richmond, in early times, there stood a royal palace, which was long the favou rite seat of the British monarchs. — Here died Edward III. and Ann, the queen of Richard II. after whose death it was by him desert ed. It was afterwards repaired by Henry V. but during the destructive wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it was much neglected, and was afterwards con sumed by fire, in the year 1497. It was re built by Henry VII. who changed the name of the village from Shene to Richmond, hav ing borne the title of Duke of Richmond before his accession to the crown. This monarch, and his grand-daughter Queen Elizabeth, also died here. In Richmond part of the walls, and some other vestiges of this ancient palace, are still to be seen. King William III. having granted some lands to the Duke of Ormond, as a recom pense for his military services, a palace was 26 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM by him built, near the royal gardens ; which reverted to the crown, after that nobleman's attainder, in the beginning of the reign of King George 1 1 .--It then became the summer residence of that monarch and Queen Ca roline, by whom it was greatly improved. Here his present Majesty also lived ; and af ter the death of his mother, the late Prin cess Dowager of Wales, he removed to Kew Palace, and ordered that of Richmond to be demolished, with the intention of erecting a new one on the same site ; the foundation was laid, but the idea of completing it seems, for the present, to be abandoned. RICHMOND GARDENS. The Royal gardens of Richmond are se parated from Kew gardens by a wall ; for merly they were parted by a road, which has been removed. The public road also, by the river side, was taken away ; in lieu of which a spacious one, in a more di rect line from Kew bridge to Richmond, LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 27 has been substituted ; which, though per haps not so pleasant as the former, is cer tainly considerably shorter, and more con venient. These gardens are about four miles in circumference, extending from Kew, south ward, along the Thames, towards the vil lage of Richmond ; and, since their first for mation, have undergone many changes. — ¦ By his present Majesty they have been to tally altered, and much improved (though not completed) under the direction of the late ingenious Mr. Launcelot Brown ; one of the first who ventured to cast away the fet ters which had been so long rivetted on the genius of the artist, by the vitiated taste and unnatural formalities of ancient garden ing, and boldly and judiciously made choice of nature for his model : and no where is this superiority of better judgment more conspicuously to be seen, than by the late al terations made in the gardens of Richmond. Instead of regular avenues, dressed hedges, smooth parterres, and straight embank- 28 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM ments, we now see irregular groups of trees, adorning beautiful swelling lawns, inter spersed with shrubberies, broken clumps, and more solemn woods ; through the re cesses of which are walks that lead to various parts of these delicious gardens, laid out with elegance and taste, as if Nature herself had been the directress. — The banks, along the margin of the Thames, are judiciously va ried, forming a noble terrace, which extends the whole length of the gardens. In the south-east quarter of these enchant ing grounds, a road leads to a lonely and sequestered spot, where stands a cottage, in which nothing but elegant simplicity is to be found. — Here is a collection of foreisrn and domestic animals of great curiosity, and also a number of exotic and other rare birds; and being a favourite retreat of her Ma jesty, it is kept in the utmost order and neatness. On the south, towards Richmond, is a small park, in which stands an elegant ob servatory ; it was formerly under the direc- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 29 tion of the late ingenious Doctor Demain- bry, and is now under the care of that gentleman's son, and contains a complete collection of instruments for astronomical observation, and other mathematical stu dies. Kew gardens, are open for the inspection of the curious, every Monday from Mid summer till the latter end of Autumn, as are also those of Richmond, every Sunday du ring the same period. Richmond park is about eleven miles in circumference ; is situated between Rich mond and Kingston ; was made in the reign of King Charles II. and is inclosed by a brick wall. The woods it contains are extensive, and abound with many stately forest trees. It is well stocked with numerous herds of fine deer, and a variety of other game ; the grounds are unequal, and in many parts pic turesquely rude, affording rich pasturage and shelter, for its wild inhabitants. — From the skirts of the woods, in the high ground, on the northern side of the park, the views 30 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM are as various as they are pleasant. Here are several handsome lodges, particularly one built by Sir Robert Walpole, afterwards Earl of Orford.— The Earl of Bute is the present ranger, and the Honourable James Stuart, son to that nobleman, is deputy ranger, and resides in the park. From the gates of Richmond park, we descend a steep hill, through an avenue of stately trees, towards Petersham ; at the bottom of which, on the left, close to the road, stands a house which formerly be longed to the Earl of Harrington, and was built for his lordship from a design of the late Earl of Burlington ; which, though sim ple, is elegant and regular, and the front towards the gardens is particularly admired. A high hill finely clothed with wood, being a continuation of that ridge, on the declivi ty of which the village of Richmond stands, stretches for a considerable distance to the south-west ; overlooks the house and gar dens, forming a noble back ground when viewed from the opposite side of the river. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 31 — This house stands on the site of an ele gant mansion, built by the Earl of Roches ter, lord high treasurer in the reign of James II. and was consumed by fire in 1720, by which accident the fine collection of paint ings, the curious library, and the inesti mable manuscripts of Lord Clarendon, au thor of the History of the Rebellion in 1646, were unfortunately destroyed. His Royal Highness the Duke of Cla rence having lately purchased this seat from Lord Camelford, intends it for his future residence, and it is now fitting up for his re ception. Close to this is the village of Petersham, which contains many handsome houses. It is said to be of great antiquity, and former ly to have enjoyed great and peculiar pri vileges ; and gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of Harrington. A little farther, near Ham, is an ancient house belonging to the Earl of Dysart, which was formerly the residence of the Duke of Lauderdale, and contains a collection ofva- 32 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM luable portraits by Vandyke, Sir Peter Lil ly, and other masters. From Richmond, the road to Twickenham turns to the right, over a bridge of stone composed of five arches ; which has recesses supported by projecting piers, with a hand some pavement on each side, guarded by a balustrade. This commodious and elegant bridge gives an additional grace to the ri ver, is a beautiful object from every quarter whence it is seen, and was built from a design of the late Mr. Paine. A toll is likewise levied here from passengers of all denomi nations. Near Richmond bridge, on the left, is the seat of Owen Cambridge, Esq. the house is ancient ; contains some valuable pictures ; and the grounds and lawns are laid out with that gentleman's usual taste and judgment. A little beyond this, stands Marble-hill, a seat of the Earl of Buckinghamshire . The house is elegant, delightfully situated, and was built by the Countess of Suffolk, from a design of the late Earl of Pembroke. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 33 Near this, by the river, is a small but neat house, the residence of Lady Diana Beau- clerk ; some of the apartments in which are decorated with beautiful paintings by her own hand, in a style that would do honour to the pencil of the most eminent artist. This pleasant retreat is also the property of the Earl of Buckinghamshire. On the opposite banks of the river, front ing Marble Hill, is a house which was a fa vourite retreat, and the property of the late Duke of Montague; since whose death it has devolved to the family of the Duke of Buccleugh, that nobleman's son-in-law. Twickenham, is a village on the Thames, between Isleworth and Tuddington, com posed of many handsome houses, and vil las, too numerous here to be particularly described ; among the most remarkable, are, the house of Sir George Pocock, built by Secretary Johnson ; and that which was the residence and property of the cele brated Mr. Pope, enlarged and improved by Sir William Stanhope ; now belonging D 34 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM to W- Ellis, Esq. The church is a hand some Doric structure, and contributes to the beauty of the village. STRAWBERRT HILL. Near Twickenham, close by the river, is Strawberry Hill, the seat of the Honourable Horace Walpole ; which from its singularity is worthy of particular notice. The house is of Gothic architecture, and in its appear ance resembles an ancient priory : the same idea prevails within, the apartments being arranged and fitted up in the style of a re ligious house. This seat may be consider ed as a model, and it assimilates two ideas of Milton, " 'tis bosomed high in tufted trees," and by its construction, " light is taught to counterfeit a gloom." Though it is not built in a manner to resist the force of time ; yet its form and contents will be preserved in the libraries of the curious, by a descriptive catalogue, illustrated with prints, written by the honourable possessor, and printed LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 35 at his own press. — The last circumstance will commemorate this habitation when no part of it remains. Among the variety of curiosities which this house contains, we shall only notice the following : — A valuable collection of portraits and cabinet pictures in oil, besides a great number of capital miniatures; a large museum of antiquities ; some valu able sculpture; and other extraordinary pieces, of art. The library is composed of rare and valuable books, in different lan^ guages.-- Among a large collection of prints, is a fine set of the works of Faithorne, chief ly portraits ; some of which, though little known, may be ranked among the best pro ductions of the art of engraving at that pe riod ; also, seventeen volumes folio of por traits, two of them entirely of artists, pro perly arranged, and enriched with notes. Returning from hence, and repassing Richmond bridge, on the left, close to the Thames, stands a spacious house belong ing to the Duke of Queensberry, where his 36 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Grace often resides : the building is low, but the front is of great extent, and makes a handsome appearance. A little farther is an elegant little villa, built by Sir Charles Asgill, from a design of the late Sir Robert Taylor, now in the possession of Mr. Keane. The house is a beautiful piece of architec ture ; and the gardens are neat, and planted with taste. Nearly opposite to this, on the north shore of the river, in a retired situation, is Twickenham Park, the late residence of the Earl of Montrath ; now in the possession of Lord Frederick Cavendish. The mansion is large, nearly surrounded by wood ; and the grounds are pleasant, extending along the Thames to the village of Isleworth. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 37 SECT. III. We now return to the high road, and proceed to Brentford, which has little to boast of besides its situation . It stands on the north shore of the Thames, and is chief ly composed of one street of great length : the houses in general are irregular, small, and ill built ; and, whether viewed from the river, or other parts of the neighbourhood, appear to no great advantage. — From hence a considerable trade in corn, malt, and other commodities, is carried on, by means of the Thames, to the capital. — At Brentford are two churches, one of which is a chapel of ease to Great Ealing ; and the election of knights of the shire for Mid dlesex is held here. In 1642, Charles I. after defeating the rebels at Edge-hill, marched his army to 38 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Brentford, attacked the parliament forces which defended it, and gained a victory over them ; their commander being killed, and five hundred prisoners were taken. In recompense for the gallant behaviour of Ruthen Earl of Forth in this battle, he was made general of the king's forces, and was afterwards advanced to the dignity of Earl of Brentford ; which title became extinct at his death in 1651. SION HOUSE. A little beyond Brentford, on the left, stands Sion House, one of the seats of the Duke of Northumberland ; the approach to Which, from the high road, is ornamented by a. beautiful arch, with an open colonade, and a handsome lodge on each side, form ing an elegant and picturesque piece of ar chitecture. Sion House takes its name from a mo nastery, founded hereby Henry V. in 1414. In a succeeding reign (that of Edward LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 39 VI.) it was given by the king to his uncle the protector, who, about 15 47, began to build this magnificent structure, the walls of which now remain, with some altera tions. After the attainder and execution of this nobleman, Sion was confiscated ; and was afterwards given to the Duke of Nor thumberland, on whose condemnation and execution in 1553, it again reverted to the crown. King James II. in consideration of the eminent services of Henry Earl of Nor thumberland, gave Sion to him and his heirs for ever. The two noble families of Somer set and Northumberland, afterwards uniting by marriage ; Sion with other considerable estates, descended to their representative, the present Duke of Northumberland. This seat is situated between Brentford and Isleworth, in a spacious lawn on the banks of the Thames, diversified by a pleas ing variety of woody scenery. The house is a magnificent structure of white stone, built in the form of a hollow square ; hav ing at each angle, a square tower, consi- 40 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM derably higher than the intermediate parts of the building : The roof is flat, surround ed by embattled turrets ; and the east front, towards the river and royal gardens of Rich mond, is supported on arches, forming a noble piazza. In the year 17 62, the late Duke of Nor thumberland began to make considerable alterations and improvements at Sion House, and employed Robert Adam, Esq. as archi tect. The apartments, which are spacious, are fitted up and decorated in the antique style, and are worthy the notice of the cu rious. The great hall at the entrance, is two stories high ; and contains several an tique marble figures, standing on pedestals. Adjoining the hall is an anti-chamber, where are twelve columns of verd antique mar ble, which support twelve statues ; and the pannelsare adorned with trophies. Next to the anti-room is the great dining room, finished in stucco, with circular re cesses at each end, decorated with screens of columns, and marble statues in niches, LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 41 by the best modern statuaries. Adjoin ing the eating room is the drawing room ; the ceiling of which is coved and painted in compartments ; and the mouldings, being all gilt, have a rich and elegant appear ance: this gives access to an old gallery, finished in the style of a museum, which affords great variety of amusement. The grounds, round this magnificent seat, were also altered by the late noble possessor, in his usual liberal manner. Many other im provements have been proposed, but are not yet carried into execution. On the south, near Sion House, is the cheerful village of Isleworth, on the banks of the Thames: in its neighbourhood are many handsome houses, and some seats. — The church is a handsome modern build ing, and a venerable tower covered with ivy, which belonged to the former church, is preserved. Opposite Sion Lodge, a road turns to the right, and leads to Sion Hill ; an elegant lit tle villa belonging to the Duke of Marlbo- 42 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM rough. The house is a handsome build ing, and serves as a pleasant retreat for his Grace, and his noble family. The grounds are rather contracted, but pleasant and well wooded ; were laid out under the direction of the late Mr. Brown ; and extend to the great road. At a little distance is the seat of John Robinson, Esq. a neat building, with ex tensive offices, which stands pleasantly in a small paddock. The land here is rich and valuable ; and though of small extent, gives the superiority of a manor to the pro prietor. OSTERLT PARK. About a mile farther we approach Oster- ly Park, and enter it by a gate ; on each side of which is a handsome lodge. This park is about six miles in circumference; abounds with wood ; and its grounds are more varied than most others in this part of the country . The house is a magnificent* structure, of a square form, having a tower LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 43 at each outward angle. The ascent to the east front, is by a grand flight of steps, to an open saloon, or portico, that leads to the principal door of the hall; which is much admired for simplicity of decoration, and a pleasing form* The apartments are spacious, and were fitted up and improved by the late proprie tor, Robert Child, Esq. in the most sump tuous and costly manner. The dining room, drawing room, and bed chambers, are fi nished and furnished in the first style of elegance and grandeur ; and the Etruscan room is particularly worthy of notice. — In the drawing room are some pictures of Ti tian, Rembrandt, and others, which are fine productions of genius ; and the grand gal lery contains a number of paintings by dif ferent masters, that would not disgrace the collection of any prince in Europe. The ornaments of the eating room are in stucco ; in the great pannels are introduced some fine paintings by Signor Zucchi ; and over the doors are pictures representing the four 44 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM quarters of the globe by the same master. Among other things that attract attention here, is a bed of green velvet, embroidered with flowers in natural colours; the car pets, glass frames, and other parts of the furniture corresponding, contribute much to that harmony and agreement of parts, for which this house is so particularly cele brated. — The whole of these decorations were from the designs, and executed under the immediate direction of Robert Adam, Esq. to whose taste and judgment they do infinite honour. From the lodges at the entrance of the park we descend a spacious road, between two pieces of water, which being on diffe rent levels, may be termed the upper and lower.— The former of these is opposite the east front, and in view from the house ; and though not large, gives beauty and variety to this part of the park.— The lower water is of much greater extent, partly inclosed by woods, through which it makes a noble sweep ; and its banks having a variety of LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 45 scenery in pleasing confusion, give it the appearance of a natural lake. On a beautiful sloping bank beneath a wood, on the north shore of the lake, stands an elegant menagerie, containing a large collection of exotic and curious birds ; and the surrounding woods resound the echoing and plaintive notes of a variety of beauti ful water fowl, constantly skimming the surface of the water. — On the north there is a rookery, the numerous tribes of which seem to have been in a superior degree di rected by instinct, to make choice of this, as an asylum, and secure place of abode, as it is for the rest of the feathered creation ; and through their hoarse sounding throats, proclaim the happiness and liberty they en joy, in common with the other more beauti ful inhabitants of this protected spot. — Here the lake bends to the north-west, over which at some distance is a bridge of stone ; beyond this it contracts, and is lost to the eye. Towards the right, near the nine mile stone, on the edge of a common, is Spring 46 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Grove, a neat house, the summer residence of Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society ; celebrated for his great knowledge in botany, to whom the lovers of that sci ence, and the world in general, will be in finitely indebted, when the most volumi nous and expensive work ever attempted in any country, now preparing by that gen tleman on this subject, will be given to the public. Whitton Place, situated about ten miles from London, on the left of the road, near Hounslow, was built by the late Archi bald Duke of Argyle, on ground granted him by the crown ; part of which was ta ken from Hounslow Heath. — The gardens were laid out with elegance and taste by the noble possessor, agreeable to the style of that period, abounding with cedars, and a variety of other ever-greens, some of which are arrived to a high degree of per fection. Here were conservatories for exo tic and other plants, forming a grand col lection. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 47 Since the death of the Duke of Argyle, Whitton Place has passed through the hands of several proprietors ; was much neglected until it came into the possession of George Gostling, Esq. who converted the great con servatory into a stately mansion, and divided the grounds ; annexing one part to the for mer house, which was purchased by Sir Wil liam Chambers, and retaining the remainder, formed them into two distinct villas. Whitton House has been much improved since it became the property of Sir William Chambers ; and the gardens emulate those of an Italian villa, having temples, statues, ruins, and other decorations coinciding with that idea. In commemoration of the happy recovery of his Majesty in 17 8 8, the tem ple of iEsculapius has been erected, and in letters of gold over the door, is the follow ing inscription : yESCVLAPIO SALV. AVG. RESTITVIT. SACR. MDCCLXXXIX. The house is a handsome regular build ing, contains some fine pictures, original 48 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM drawings, and an excellent library, in which are many valuable books on ancient and modern architecture. The village of Hounslow, is a principal stage on the western road, near ten mileg from London, on the skirts of Hounslow Heath ; it belongs to two parishes ; to Hes- ton on the north, and to Isleworth on the south : has many good inns, and is chiefly supported by the road . On the north-east of the Heath, towards King's Arbor, are the traces of a small Ro man camp, ninety paces by one hundred and thirty-two, and another about a mile dis tant from it : One of these Stukley gives to Cassar, and mentions his having had ano ther, where the church of Kingsbury now stands ; and traces his march from Coway Stakes to Cassibellan's Oppidum at Watford and Rickmans worth. In Sion House is an ancient map of Isleworth hundred, in which are marked two royal camps, by the name of Shakesbury Hills, on this heath, near Cranford. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 49 SECT IV. Retrospect of the Country from London to Hounslow. 1 h e road from London to Hounslow, runs nearly on a level ; the country on the left, imperceptibly declining to the Thames. The grounds, on each side, are chiefly oc cupied by gardens, nurseries, and orchards, with almost a continued chain of buildings, of various dimensions and appearances, ex tending for more than eight miles from the metropolis. West of Kensington, on the right, are gentle -rising grounds ; with houses, inclosures, and some wood inter mixed : And beyond Brentford, towards E 50 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM' Hounslow, the country is diversified by cul tivation, ornamented villas, and woody sce nery. The banks of the Thames, from West minster bridge to Putney and Fulham, dis play no remarkable features ; they are how ever rendered pleasant by a great number of cheerful villages, with a variety of other buildings, clustered on the shores. Lambeth, a village in Surrey, is situated on the Thames, near Westminster bridge ; in which stands an ancient palace, the resi dence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This structure was originally built by Bald win, archbishop of that see, about the year 1188. In 1250, Bishop Boniface, having by his arrogance rendered himself obnoxi ous to the citizens of London, retired hither as a place of safety ; and finding it in a ruinous condition, rebuilt the north front, and made many other improvements. From that period, Lambeth Palace became the habitation of some of the greatest charac ters at the head of the church ; and was by LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 51 its successive possessors, enlarged by many additional buildings ; to which circumstance that want of uniformity, so conspicuous in it, is to be attributed. It stands close to the river, is well sheltered from the north by trees, and has a stately and picturesque ap pearance when viewed from the opposite shore ; and particularly from Westminster bridge. This palace contains a valuable library ; which is annexed to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury, and is said to consist of near fifteen thousand volumes of printed books, and above six hundred volumes of manu scripts. A little higher on the Surrey shore is Vauxhall, once the seat of Sir Thomas Morland; now a fashionable place for a- musements on summer evenings. The gar dens are spacious, abounding with wood, and have a variety of gravel walks which are kept in perfect order. Near the en trance stands a building, in the form of a temple, having a fine organ, and an ele- 52 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM gant orchestra ; where a select band of vo cal and instrumental performers attends in the season. " Contiguous is a rotunda, with a saloon and other rooms of large dimen sions, decorated with paintings ; well adapt ed for musical performances, and entertain ments peculiar to the place ; and are fre quently made use of for these purposes. Chelsea College (before taken notice of) has a noble and stately appearance from the river ; and adds dignity to the village in which it stands. From the southern ex tremity of Chelsea, a handsome wooden bridge stretches across the Thames; and leads to Battersea, which is situated a little higher on the Surrey shore ; consisting of good houses, with a handsome modern church. Battersea gives the title of Baron to the Lord Viscount Bolingbroke ; to whose an cestors the manor of that name, together with that of Wandsworth, were granted by King Charles I. About a mile farther, on opposite shores LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 53 of the river, are the two large and popu lous villages of Putney and Fulham, which are joined by a bridge of great length, built of timber. — From hence the views are pleasingly picturesque ; the banks of the Thames being unequal, diversified with wood and buildings. Fulham stands in Middlesex ; and in the Conqueror's time it was held of the king, by the canons of St. Paul's. Here is an an cient mansion, belonging to the see of Lon don, which has been the residence of its successive bishops for many years. Proceeding higher, and leaving Chiswick on the right, a continuation of the same kind of scenery leads to Richmond ; on our approach to which the country becomes more characteristic. Here, the Thames stretches in a noble sweep towards the south, at the foot of Richmond Hill ; then bending to the west, retires beneath its shade, and is lost to the sight. The northern shores of the river being low ; composed of beautiful lawns 54 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM and meadows, form a pleasing contrast to the higher grounds of the southern. Richmond Hill is adorned by handsome houses, elegant villas, and interspersed with woody scenery, from its summit to the margin of the Thames. In the center of the landscape a handsome bridge presents itself; beyond this, at some distance, a high hill finely hung with wood rises stately on the south, forming a noble back-ground to the whole ; which may be deemed a picturesque and elegant composition. The Thames, being the grand channel of communication from the interior parts of England lying west from the capital, an immense trade in corn, timber, and other merchandize is constantly carried on by its means ; in which great numbers of craft of various burthens are constantly employed. The variety of pleasure boats, and other small vessels, constantly to be seen navigat ing this river ; the incredible numbers of shipping, from every quarter of the globe, trading to the metropolis ; together with LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 55 the scenery described— unite in constituting the Thames the most beautiful, most weal thy, and most consequential river in the universe. A little beyond Hounslow, the Bath road branches off the great western road, in a north-west direction, along the skirts of Hounslow Heath. This waste is a dead flat, of great extent, and having little va riety, the weary traveller wishes to hasten speedily from it. The scene is indeed a little changed, by the intervention of some wood and cultivated land, taken from the common near Cranford bridge ; beyond which it again assumes its dreary aspect, extending to the fourteen mile stone. About twelve miles and a half from Lon don, the river Crane (which may be here termed a rivulet) crosses the Bath road. Here is a commodious bridge, built of brick ; near which, on the north, lies the village of Cranford, 56 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Cranford Park, the seat of the Earl of Berkley, is at a little distance. The park is a perfect flat, abounding with wood, and well watered by the Crane. The house is ancient, and is situated in an angle of the park near the church : though it commands no variety of prospects, yet from the distri bution of the woods, and other accompani ments, it may be deemed a pleasant retire ment. Cranford, notwithstanding its vi cinity to the metropolis, is celebrated for game, particularly pheasants ; which are to be seen here, in great numbers ; consi derable pains being taken by the noble proprietor for their preservation. The road beyond Cranford bridge still continues level. On the right near Dray ton, is Dawley, formerly the seat of Lord Viscount Bolingbroke ; by whom it was purchased from the Earl of Tankerville, and now belongs to Edmund Stephenson, Esq. Passing through the pretty village of Longford towards the town of Colnbrook, the road becomes more pleasant. Acciden- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 57 tal glances of the stately towers of Windsor Castle are obtained, and though not dis tinctly seen, they contribute to cheer the mind after the dreary scene that has been described. Near the Roman Way, which runs from Brentford to Staines, on a branch of the road from Hounslow to Colnbrook, lies the village of Arlington, or Harlington ; which, with Dawley, was formerly the seat of the Bennets, and gave the title of baron to that family in 1663: which title is hand ed down to the Duke of Grafton, who is descended, by the female line, from the only daughter of John Bennet, Baron Ar lington. Colnbrook, is about seventeen miles from London, situated on several channels of the river Coin, over each of which there is a small bridge. A part of this town is in Middlesex, but the greater part is in Buckinghamshire. It contains many good inns, which, together with the market, are its chief support. Here a charity school 58 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM and a chapel, said to be founded by Ed ward III. are still remaining. Gale, Burton, Baxter, and Stukley, agree with Camden, in fixing Pontes at Colnbrook; however Leland inclines to Reading. COUNTT OF BUCKINGHAM. At Colnbrook the traveller enters Buck inghamshire. This county is about thirty- nine miles in length, eighteen in breadth, and one hundred and thirty-eight in circum ference. It contains eight hundreds, one hundred and eighty-five parishes, eleven market towns, and sixteen hundred vil^ lages. It is bounded, on the south by the Thames, which separates it from Berkshire ; on the west by Oxfordshire ; by Northamptonshire on the north ; and by Bedfordshire, Hert fordshire, and Middlesex on the east. Its chief rivers are, the Thames, the Ouse, and the Coin. The soil is in general fruit ful, producing much corn and timber ; par- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 59 ticularly beech ; and in many parts it a- bounds with rich pasturage. The air of Buckinghamshire is esteemed healthy, a chalky soil prevailing over a great part of it. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocess of Lincoln. Notwithstanding the ample manner by which London and its suburbs are supplied with water, from the river Lea, and the Thames ; a scheme was some time ago in contemplation, to convey a part of the ri ver Coin, to the western division of the metropolis. A survey was made, and the intended plan found practicable. From the astonishing increase of London and West minster, and their present rapid progress, it is not improbable, that there may be a necessity, for an additional supply of wa ter ; and it is fortunate these cities are so si tuated, that so noble a scheme may be adopted, should it be found requisite. Near Colnbrook, on the right, is Percy Lodge, a seat of the Earl of Tankerville ; celebrated for having been the residence of 60 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Frances Countess of Hertford, afterwards Dutchess of Somerset. In a collection of letters published by Mr. Hall, in two vo lumes, are included eleven letters from the pen of this lady, of which Mr. Shenstone has given the following character. " That there are discernable in them, a " perfect rectitude of heart, delicacy of sen- " timent, and a truly classic ease and ele- " gance of style." These letters are also to be found in a late publication, entitled Elegant Epistles, print ed for Charles Dilly. Near the village of Langley, stands Lang- ley Park, the seat of Sir Robert Bateson Hervey. The house is a handsome stone building, situated in the centre of a pleasant park, which abounds with a variety of fine timber. A piece of water runs along the south front of this mansion, at the foot of a sloping lawn ; on which are scattered some beautiful clumps of stately trees, and other woody scenery. A rising ground, on the western ex- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 61 tremity of this park, leads to an inclosure, called the Black Park ; which being singu lar, is worthy of notice. It is of considerable extent, is covered by fir woods, (through which roads are cut) excepting the centre, which is occupied by a lake of deep and clear water. The ap proach to it rather surprizes ; having more the character of alpine scenery, than any thing we are led to expect near Langley : and when on the banks of the lake, totally sequestered from the surrounding cheerful country, by gloomy woods of deep-tinted firs, this idea is still more forcibly impressed on the mind. This spot is certainly capable of great im provement, and might be laid out to ad vantage : Taste and judgment • would convert it into a very uncommon and pleas ing retirement ; and add variety to the other appendages of this estate. — Langley Park belonged to the Duke of Marlborough, of whom it was purchased by the present pos sessor. 62 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM On the left of the road, near the village of Datchet, is Ditton Park. The house is ancient and venerable, surrounded by a moat of water ; it stands pleasantly in a fine park, which is well supplied with wood. This mansion is said to have been built by Sir Ralph Winwood, secretary of state to King James I. Coming into the possession of the Montagues, it descended to the Dut chess of Manchester, eldest daughter and joint heiress to that noble family. Lord Beaulieu being afterwards married to this lady, Ditton Park came into his possession; by him it has been much im proved, and is now generally known by the name of Beaulieu Park. Here is a gallery, containing a collection of good pictures; the apartments are elegant and well furnished. After we pass Colnbrook, the road exhi bits a little more variety ; — on the right lies a well cultivated country, rendered cheer ful by villages and houses, interspersed with woods, and the lofty towers of Windsor LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 63 Castle, are often caught by the eye through the scenery on the opposite side. Approaching Slough, it becomes more pleasant, the eye having a little more space to range in ; but still the views on the left, are too much broken and interrupted, by a tiresome continuation of scattered trees. From the fields below, (where the in tervention of such objects can be avoided) the Castle appears to advantage; having the town and college of Eton in the val ley on the right, and the distance closed by the royal forests on the south ; forming a pleasing and picturesque scene. Slough is a large village, in the road, about a mile and a half distant from Wind sor, composed chiefly of one street; the houses are tolerably built, and it contains some good inns. Near this village, on the left of the road to Eton and Windsor, stands the house of the celebrated Doctor Herschell ; by whose extraordinary improvements in the con struction of telescopes, many discoveries 64 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM have been lately made in the noble and useful science of astronomy. The appara tus, which gives motion to his grand tele scope, is seen from the high road. The establishment of Doctor Herschell, is at the expence of his Majesty ; and is one of the numerous instances in which the king displays a love of genius and science, and a disposition to patronize them. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 65 SECT. V. ^Vindsor Castle has been a royal residence, with some interruption, from the Conquest to the present reign ; and whe-^ ther regarded as a fortress or royal palace, equally commands our admiration. It stands conspicuously on a high hill, the base of which is washed by the most beautiful river in this or any other coun try. It commands extensive prospects to the north, to the west, and towards the ca pital ; on the south, the views are bounded by noble forests, with a variety of other scenery. This venerable and majestic edifice, is about one mile in circumference, and is di vided into two spacious courts, called the F 66 SURVEV of the great road from upper and lower wards. The center, be ing the highest ground, is occupied by a stately round tower ; the magnitude of which, adds dignity to the whole. From the surrounding country, Windsor Castle is seen to great advantage ; its gran deur and magnitude attract the eye from every quarter. Its solemn and majestic ap pearance impresses the mind of the beholder with awe and veneration ; and its situation seems to have been pointed out by nature for the seat of monarchs. At Windsor, William the Conqueror first built a palace, which was afterwards forti fied by Henry I. Edward III. enlarged it, destroyed the ancient fortifications, and erected the present stately Castle ; surround ing it with ramparts and ditches. The whole of these alterations were made under the direction of William of Wickham, af terwards Bishop of Winchester. In the reign of the last-mentioned prince, the Kings of France and Scotland were at the same time prisoners in Windsor LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 67 Castle ; and the most noble order of the garter was instituted here by him. Several additions and alterations, were made in the successive reigns : St. George's chapel was rebuilt by Henry IV. in a magnificent style ; and the grand terrace on the north and east sides of the Castle, was added by Queen Eli zabeth. This fortress having suffered much dur ing the times of civil commotion, by plun der and rapine, King Charles II. after his restoration, had it repaired with more than its former splendour, and made many im provements in it. The state apartments are magnificent, and are superbly fitted up. The furniture is rich ; many of the cielings are finely paint ed ; and a great number of pictures by the most eminent masters, adorn the different chambers ; among which are the celebrated Cartoons by Raphael, removed from Hamp ton Court. Of the many improvements made by their present Majesties in Windsor Castle, those 68 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM in the audience chamber claim our particu lar notice. In this room are eight pictures from the pencil of B. West, Esq. historical painter to his Majesty ; which include about fifteen years, the most brilliant period, of the reign of Edward III. This illustrious sovereign, his queen, and his son the Black Prince, are distinguished characters in these paintings. — The subjects are as follow : Edward crossing the Somme, being his first entrance into France with his army. Edward embracing his son the Black Prince in the field, after the battle of Cressy. The defeat of David King of Scots, by Queen Philippa, at Nevil's-cross, where that monarch was taken prisoner. Queen Philippa's intercession in behalf of St. Pierre, and the brave burghers of Calais, on the surrender of that place. The institution of the noble order of the garter. Edward crowning Rubimont at Calais. Edward the Black Prince receiving the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 69 King of France his prisoner, after the battle of Poitiers. St. George, introduced as the tutelar saint of England, and patron of the most noble order of the garter, rescuing the dam sel from the dragon. These glorious subjects, selected from the history of the brilliant reign of Edward III. being in themselves deserving of the con spicuous situation they occupy, are rendered more worthy of it, by the judicious manner in which they have been treated, by so able a master of historical composition. Besides their other merits, they are valuable to the English nation, as registers of many of the illustrious families of this country, who had their origin at, or prior to the periods whence these historical facts were taken ; and may be known by their armorial bear ings, on their shields, sur-coats, banners, and crests. We have authority to say, a set of prints are to be engraved from these paintings, some of which are already begun. 70 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM In this room, a superb throne has been erected, which is worthy of particular no tice. The part which first engages the at tention, is the body or space above the chair of state : its principal feature consists of a form composed in the style of an altar ; which has on its base the arms of Great Bri tain, with the proper supporters. Round the shaft of the altar is twined the oak branch, bound up to the column by the garter belonging to the noble order of that name. In the middle of the capital, the star of the order ; and upon the capital, a large vase, on the front of which is the fi gure of Britannia ; and over this is the collar of the order, with the George pendant. Festoons of flowers hang from the vase ; in the base, on the side of the lion, is a basket of flowers ; and on that of the uni corn is another, filled with roses and this tles, painted by Miss Mozer. On the plinth is a medallion, on which are painted two figures representing Jus tice and Fortitude : and from each end rise LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 71 two pilasters ; that on the right has on its lower part the figure of Neptune, and over that, a Triton with marine attributes. A medallion occupies the center, and contains a picture representing the woollen staple of England ; and from thence upwards, are the attributes of commerce, with Mercury presiding. The pilaster on the left, has on the base the figure of the Earth ; over this are various animals, in the midst of which is seen the white horse. On the frieze, above the pilasters, is a large medallion, containing the 'portraits of their Majesties in profile, supported by two figures repre senting Virtue and Religion. These em bellishments are painted in colours, on a gold ground, by Rebecca. Round the canopy hang elegant festoons of flowers ; the whole of which, as well as those on the throne, were executed in needle-work, by and under the direction of Mrs. Pawsey (niece to thelate Mrs.Wright), who presides over her Majesty's benevo lent institution for the support of thedaugta 72 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM ters of decayed clergymen and officers. The general form, the decorations, and the chair of state, are by Mr. Campbell ; the whole from the designs of Mr. West. St. George's chapel has undergone the following alterations and repairs, by order of his Majesty. The monument of Edward the Black Prince, was repaired and cleaned. A new organ loft of artificial stone has been erect ed ; and a magnificent organ by Mr. Green. Four new stalls, for knights companions of the most noble order of the garter, have been made ; and an elegant window in painted glass by Mr. Jarvis, after a picture of the resurrection by Mr. West, adorns the chapel. The closet, where their Majesties sit to hear divine service, has been beautified, and the chapel has been paved with stone, found in the choir. One new window has been added -. the whole of the old casements were taken away, and are replaced with elegant sashes of Eldorado metal. The town of Windsor, in Berkshire, is LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 73 twenty-two miles from London ; situated on the declivity of the hill on which the Castle stands, rising from the Thames to the walls of that fortress. It was granted by Edward the Confessor to Wesminster Abbey, but the abbot exchanged it with William the Conqueror for Battersea and Wandsworth in Surrey, and other lands in Essex. It is of considerable extent, and of great antiquity ; having been constituted a borough by Edward I. with great privi leges, such as exemption from all tolls of bridges, markets, and fairs. It sent mem bers to parliament, from the thirteenth of his reign, to the fourteenth of Edward III. when it was intermitted, till the twenty- fifth of Henry VI. but has sent them ever since. They are elected by the inhabitants, the mayor being the returning officer. In the high street is a handsome town hall, supported by columns ; it was built in the time of Charles I. and the church is a building of large dimensions. Windsor had charters from K. James I, 74 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM and II. by which the corporation was to consist of a mayor, high steward, and depu ty ; a town clerk, two bailiffs, and twenty- eight burgesses, chosen from the principal inhabitants, thirteen of whom are denomi nated fellows of the guildhall ; ten of those are called aldermen ; out of which are to be chosen the mayor and bailiffs. The manor of Windsor, which was grant ed, or rather leased, to the corporation, by James I. on paying a quit -rent of about four pounds a year, has jurisdiction over many lordships. Old Windsor has little left to boast of besides its antiquity. It was formerly the seat of several of the Saxon kings, and formed a strong pass. From the period in which the Conqueror fixed his residence on the adjoining hill, it gradually went to de cay ; a new town having sprung up under the protection of the fortress constructed by that monarch. The Little Park occupies the north and east sides, under the terrace of the Castle. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 15 It is about four miles in circumference ; its grounds are composed of a pleasing ine quality, diversified by groups of stately trees, and other woody scenery, extending to the village of Datchet, and declining towards the Thames. Windsor Great Park lies close to the south side of the town ; an avenue of near three miles in length, leads to the summit of a hill, beyond which the ranger's house de lightfully stands ; this was the residence of the late Duke of Cumberland, as ran ger. This Park is about fourteen miles in cir cumference ; and displays a variety of sce nery, in a style more sublime and beautiful than is often to be found. The country it occupies, consists of great and bold inequa lities ; and its forests are picturesquely rude, affording inexhaustible subjects for the pen cil of the able artist in rural landscape. Towards its southern quarter is a noble and extensive piece of water, over which, near the western extremity, is an elegant 76 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM bridge of stone, built after a design by T. Sand by, Esq. under whose direction the water has been enlarged, and the grounds have been laid out with great taste. The royal forests, according to Roque, make a circuit of fifty-six miles : they a- bound with fine deer, and a variety of other game ; and are possessed of every re quisite for elegant rural recreation, or the more manly exercises of the chace ; the fa vourite amusement of many successive kings of England, as it is of his present Majesty. In this neighbourhood stands Cranbourne Lodge, belonging to the Duke of Glouces ter, as ranger of Cranbourne Chace. This was formerly in the possession of William Duke of Cumberland, who caused the mi litary dresses of the different corps of the armies of Europe to be represented in paint ing, and regularly arranged on the pan- nels of a spacious room ; — and by military people they are esteemed curious. Near this is St. Leonard's Hill, beauti fully cloathed with venerable oaks, and LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 77 stately beeches. On its eastern declivity stands the handsome house of L. Ains- combe, Esq. and its summit is adorned by a capital mansion, the residence of General Harcourt. The inviting skirts of these extensive fo rests are rendered peculiarly pleasing, by the variety of cheerful villages, and elegant houses scattered on them ; the whole coin ciding with the magnificence of the royal seat, to which they form appendages. In Windsor forest, on the heath, five miles from Sunning Hill, near Easthamstead Park, are the traces of a very large irregular camp, double trenched, called Caesar's camp ; and near the race ground, a mile from Sunning Hill Wells, on Ascot Heath, are four bar row's, which lie on the south side, and near the turnpike road to Oakingham. The trenches round the larger, are about twelve feet wide, and two deep. From the middle of the trenches to the centers of the tops, is about forty -seven feet ; and from the out side of the trenches, to the bottoms of the 78 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM lesser hillocks, about forty-five feet ; and those which have no trenches round them, are quite flat at the top ; not above three feet high, and forty feet over. About two miles south-west from these barrows is Tower Hill. It is small and irregular ; very steep on every side, except the north-east. Here is the entrance to the entrenchment, that runs round the summit of the whole, following its irregularities. This hill is about three miles from Caesar's camp ; a quarter of a mile from which are Wickham Bushes ; and a little south from them is a raised road, ninety feet wide, with a trench on each side, running east and west ; vulgarly termed the Devil's High way. From Windsor, a bridge over the Thames leads to Eton ; which is situated in a plea sant valley, on the banks of that river, and is celebrated for its college and public school. Eton College was founded by Henry VI. some part of its endowment was taken LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 79 away by Edward VI. but being particu larly exempted in the act of dissolution, it has continued in a flourishing state to the present time. The foundation consists of a provost and seven fellows, one of which is vice-provost. Here are seventy boys, who are called king's scholars ; those when qualified are elected, on the first Tuesday in August, to King's College, Cambridge ; are called according to seniority ; and after having been three years there, are entitled to a fellowship. Eton school may be esteemed among the first for reputation in any country. It is divided into the lower and upper ; and each into three classes, consisting of one mas ter, and four assistants. The number of scholars, including those of the foundation, may amount to above four hundred. The library is large and valuable, having been at different periods augmented by do nations bequeathed by learned characters ; among which are included a collection of books left by Dr. Waddington, Bishop of 80 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Chester, valued at two thousand pounds : — and Lord Chief Justice Reeves presented to this library, the collection left him by Richard Topham, Esq. keeper of the re cords of the Tower. The chapel is a stately Gothic structure ; the school and other buildings are of mo dern architecture. In the great court, is a statue of the founder, which was executed at the expence of the late Dr. Godolphin, Dean of St. Paul's, their provost. The village of Eton is large and popu lous ; its public buildings render it conse quential, and stamp it with a characteristic appearance. The approach to it from Slough, is over a small bridge, extending across a rivulet, which falls into the Thames a little way from it. From hence we again return into the high road. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 81 SECT VI. A little beyond Slough, on the right, near the high road, is a handsome villa, the temporary residence of the Earl of Chester field. The house is a neat modern build ing, the grounds round it are pleasant, and the approach to it is by an avenue of stately firs. From hence a road leads to the village of Stoke, which formerly went under the denomination of Stoke-Pogies ; having been originally the inheritance of the Lords of Pogies, from whom it passed to the family of Hastings. Edward, Baron Hastings, founded an hospital here, for the support and maintenance of indigent persons of both sexes ; and his brother adorned this G 82 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM spot by building an elegant seat. This seat came afterwards into the possession of the Lady Cobham ; of whom it was pur chased by Mr. Penn, one of the proprietors and governor of Pennsilvania ; now belong ing to his representative, John Penn, Esq. Since Stoke Park became the property of this gentleman, it has undergone great al terations. The ancient edifice which stood in an angle of the Park, close to the village, has been taken down, and a stately mansion has been erected in a more elevated situation towards the center, but is not yet compleat- ed . A small piece of water in a serpentine form runs along the south front ; which being much sunk, is little seen from a distance. The Park is well supplied with wood, but has few trees of venerable aspect. The east end of Stoke church-yard is ren dered interesting to the traveller, by being the burying-place of the celebrated Mr. Gray. Fernham, or Farnham Royal, is near this place ; it was formerly held by its different LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL 83 possessors, on condition of finding the king a glove for his right hand, on his corona tion day, and supporting his right arm, while he held the royal sceptre. When the ancestors of the present Earl of Shrews bury exchanged this with Henry VIII. they reserved the privilege to themselves and their posterity. Burnham is a village noted only for an Augustine nunnery, founded by Richard King of the Romans, in 12 65; and for giving name to the hundred in which it stands. Close to this, in a pleasant situa tion, is a house, the summer residence of Lady Ravensworth, in view from the Bath road. We next arrive at Salt Hill ; a principal stage on the road, and noted for an ele gant inn. Beyond this, as we approach Maidenhead bridge, the country changes its appearance ; becomes more characteristic and pictu resque, and the woody hills of Taploe pre sent themselves to view. 84 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Taploe is a handsome village, elevated above the north shore of the Thames ; con sisting of many good houses, and, from the pleasantness of its situation, many persons of fortune have been induced to fix their residence in it, and in its vicinity. On the summit of the hill, close to the village, embosomed in wood, is Taploe House, an ancient and venerable edifice, belonging to the Earl of Inchiquin ; which, together with many other handsome houses to be seen upon its eastern declivity, have an agreeable appearance. From hence a high ridge, forming a chain of hills, finely hung with wood, extends in a western direction to Hedsor, the estate of Lord Boston. CLIEFDEN HOUSE. Near the center of the ridge of hills above- mentioned, stands Cliefden House ; built by Villiers Duke of Buckingham, in the reign of Charles II. It was purchased by the first LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 85 Earl of Orkney ; and by marriage descended to the present Earl of Inchiquin. This is a regular stately mansion, having a terrace in front, supported by arches. Its situation is lofty and conspicuous, and it is surrounded by noble and extensive woods. The pleasure gardens are spacious ; by nature finely formed into sloping lawns, hills, and vallies ; assisted by art with much taste. The upper grounds, near the house, com mand most extensive prospects, over the surrounding country : and though views of this description, where too great an ex tent of horizon is seen, may not be the most pleasing to the eye of a painter ; yet when beheld through the vistas of these gardens, partially screened by groups of stately trees, and other objects, it must be allowed they contribute to the variety, and add to the beauty of the composition. The southern declivity towards the Thames, is finely hung with natural woods, forming a different, but not less pleasing 86 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM kind of scenery; being a contrast to the upper and more polished grounds. From the sides of precipices, formed by the falling of the mouldering chalk, (of which these hills are composed) and from lofty banks overhung by venerable and stately trees, we see the Thames pursuing its serpentine course, through beautiful mea dows enlivened by numerous herds of cat tle, with their rustic attendants; and the neighbourhood adorned with clusters of cheerful villages, and some more lonely re treats, forming together the most pleasant kind of rural landscape. When viewed from the opposite shore, Cliefden, with its lofty woody hills, shelv ing banks, and other mixture of scenery, form a picture in a nobler style of compo sition ; the Thames occupying a principal station near the fore-ground. Cliefden House was sometime in the pos session of Frederick, late Prince of Wales; and the Countess of Orkney intends it soon to be her future residence. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 87 This mansion contains tapestry hangings of the Duke of Marlborough's battles, finely executed by order of the Earl of Orkney, who served as an officer of superior rank in these glorious campaigns. HEDSOR LODGE. Adjoining Cliefden is Hedsor Lodge, the seat of Lord Boston ; formerly belonging to Rowland Hynde, Esq. The house is an ele gant modern building, loftily situated ; the grounds are by nature formed into high sloping hills and deep vallies, with a va riety of wood well distributed. The de clivities of the hills are steep, particularly towards the west ; and on the south near the Thames, is a chalky precipice, whence the ground rises boldly to the summit, on which the mansion conspicuously stands. From hence the views are extensive ; the eye ranges over a large tract, enriched by villages, seats, and a variety of other sce nery ; fertile meadows, through which the 88 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM river glides, occupy the space between, and the hills on the west gradually diminishing, vanish into the horizon. From the lower grounds (particularly beyond the Thames) Hedsor is seen to ad vantage. Its elevated situation commands admiration ; and its bold inequalities give variety ; which, with other favourable traits collectively considered, conspire powerfully to arrest the attention of the traveller, con versant in composition of this kind. From the steep sides of the hills be low Hedsor, looking eastward, Sir George Young's house is seen in the valley. It is a handsome house, lately built ; its situa tion is low on the south shore, close to the Thames. The towering woods of Cliefden protect it on the north ; it is encompassed by fertile meadows, with some tufted woody scenery, on the east and south ; and is pe^ puliarly adapted for a summer retirement. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 89 SECT. VII. At Maidenhead bridge, the traveller enters Berkshire. — The most probable con jecture, in regard to the name of this county, is that which derives it from the Saxon word berroc, signifying the wood of the box tree ; for in former times great quantities grew in it. A colony of the Attrebates, as men tioned by Caesar in his Commentaries, who inhabited a part of Gaul, are supposed to give the name of Attrebatii to this people. They were a considerable part of the power ful kingdom of the West Saxons, who were rendered famous for the share they had in that signal victory obtained over the Danes at Englefield. This county is about thirty-nine miles in 90 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM length ; twenty-nine broad ; and one hun dred and twenty in circumference. It is bounded, on the north by the Thames, which divides it from Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire ; on the east by Middlesex and Surrey ; on the south by Hampshire ; and on the West by Wiltshire and Gloucester shire. It contains four parliamentary boroughs ; twenty hundreds ; twelve market towns ; one hundred and forty parishes ; and six hundred and seventy -one villages: the whole lying in the province of Canterbury, and diocess of Salisbury. Its rivers are the Thames, the Kennet, the Lodden, the Ocke, and the Lambourne Stream. The two former, washing the op posite sides of the county, add to its ferti lity, and contribute to its wealth. When united, they form a grand channel of com munication, by which the various commo dities of the counties they pass through, are conveyed to the metropolis, and to other parts. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 91 The air of Berkshire is healthy ; and the country is pleasant, being diversified by a variety of woody hills ; the banks of its several rivers afford excellent and rich pas ture. It produces in plenty, corn, cattle, and timber ; particularly oak, elm, and beech. Its manufactures are woollen and sail-cloth ; some of silk and cotton ; and great quantities of meal and malt. Berkshire gives the title of Baron to a branch of the Howard family ; and sends two representatives to parliament. Maidenhead bridge is built of stone, con sisting of seven principal, and six smaller arches. The approach to it is spacious and grand ; produced by a noble curve out wards, towards each end. A broad pave ment runs along each side, fenced by a handsome ballustrade ; its general propor tions being good, and the design simple, it may be considered an elegant handsome structure. It was constructed after a design of the late Sir R, Taylor, about thirteen years ago. 92 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM From hence the beautiful scenery of Cliefden and its neighbourhood present a picturesque landscape, terminated on the west by the woody hills of Buckinghamshire. Looking down the river towards the east, the country is flat, but not unpleasant. Houses and villages are seen scattered a- mong pleasant meadows ; the scene is closed in the horizon by a very distant country ; Windsor Castle and the royal forests, ap pearing on the left ; but rather indistinctly. At each end of Maidenhead bridge stands an excellent inn, where travellers are well accommodated ; and parties often resort hitheT, for the amusement of fishing, and other recreations in the summer months. Maidenhead (which Leland calls South Ailington, and Stow, Sudlington) is a town of some consequence, pleasantly situated on the declivity of a hill, on the Bath road. It is of great antiquity ; having been con stituted a borough in the reign of Edward III. by the name of Guild, or fraternity of the brothers and sisters of Maidenhead ; LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 93 after the reformation, by that of Warden and Burgesses ; and it was incorporated by James II. under the denomination of High Steward, Mayor, and Aldermen. The town stands in the parishes of Bray and Cookham, but has a chapel peculiar to the corporation ; the minister being chosen by the inhabitants, and not obliged to at tend the visitation of the bishop. The mayor, his predecessor, and the steward, are justices of the peace ; and the former is also clerk of the market, coroner, and judge of the court, which he is obliged to hold once in every three weeks. The houses are tolerably built, and a handsome modern chapel stands near the entrance of the town ; the bridge belongs to the corporation, and must produce a considerable revenue. Adjoining Maidenhead, on the south, is the seat of P. Powney, Esq. the house is an cient, a new park has lately been inclosed, but the grounds are not yet arranged. From Maidenhead, a hollow way leads to the summit of a hill, whence, looking 94 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM northward, the beautiful woods of Taploe, Cliefden, and Hedsor Lodge, again present themselves ; embosomed in which these three elegant seats appear. Beyond this, the country on each side consists of cultivated districts, woody hills and vallies. At the twenty-eight mile stone we enter the race ground, which is of great extent, adjoining Maidenhead Thicket. On the right, near the edge of the common, is a house, the residence of Charles Ambler, Esq. which stands pleasantly, and is screen ed by plantations. Towards the south, on the left, stand two handsome houses ; the larger possessed by Miss Lownds, and the smaller by Mr. Lee. Here a road branches off to the west, which leads to Hall Place, the seat of Sir William Este, Bart, a little more than a mile distant. The house is a neat building, plea santly situated in a small park, well furnish ed with wood, surrounded by woody hills, interspersed with cultivated grounds. From some parts of the race ground, the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 95 eye ranges over a large tract of distant country, towards the east, in which some seats are to be seen ; those of Sayer, and John Grant, Esqrs. are the most con spicuous. A rising ground beyond the heath, leads to a beautiful woodland country, pleasingly diversified by farms, cottages, and some ele gant houses ; the road running along plea sant hills and vallies, for several miles ; and though enchanting to the sight, the land here is by no means so valuable or produc tive as in many other parts, the soil being sandy and poor ; narrow wastes tufted with furze, and other barren spots frequently appearing. On the left, about two miles distant, is the village of Shottersbrook, where may be seen the remains of a small religious house, of the Benedictine order, dedicated to St. John the Baptist ; founded by Sir William Trussell, a Staffordshire gentleman ; now converted to a farm house. Here also the very learned Mr. Henry Dodwell, passed 96 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM the evening of his days, and he is buried in the church. This extraordinary man, it is recorded, travelled over most parts of Eu rope on foot, reading as he walked ; and carried with him books fitted to his poc kets. Near this village is Lawrence Waltham ; where, in a field, called Weycock, which signifies a high road, stood a considerable Roman fort ; and there is still a spot called Castle-hill, where Roman coins are often turned up when the land is ploughed . Near Shottersbrook is a seat belonging to Arthur Vansittart, Esq. It is a stately mansion ; stands in a pleasant park, well wooded, and its grounds are peculiarly pleasing. Beyond the thirty-one mile stone, on a woody hill to the right, the house of Mrs. Phillips is pleasantly situated. It is a hand some building, well sheltered from the north ; commanding extensive views to wards the east and south. Nearly adjoin ing, an elegant modern house with wings, LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 97 the residence of Mr. Ximenes, stands de lightfully, in a pleasant woodland country. A ridge of high hills screens it on the north ; a pleasing variety of inequalities, tufted with woods, compose its grounds ; and it is built in an elevated situation, having open and extensive views towards the south and east. Opposite, near the road, on a sloping lawn, stands a neat house, the seat of J.Lee Parrot, Esq. — A woody valley occupies the grounds in the east and south, and its plan tations are agreeably arranged ; the whole forming a pleasant residence. A little farther is Hare Hatch, a small scattered village, in which are several good houses; in particular, that of Mr. Young on the right, and Mr. Girdler's, a handsome building upon a rising ground, towards the left. At the thirty- two mile stone, we leave the woodland, and descend into an open cultivated country; — about a mile hence, on a hill to the left, stands the village of Ruscombe; close to which is an elegant H 98 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM modern house, the residence of Sir James Eyre, Lord Chief Baron of the Court of Exchequer. A little beyond this we arrive at the village of Twyford. From Twyford a road leads to Wargrave, pleasantly situated on the Thames. This village is a mile and half distant from Twy ford, and was in early times a market-town. Queen Emma gave it to the Bishop of Win chester ; and in that see it remained till Dr. Poynet gave it to Edward VI. who grant ed it to Henry Nevill. — Queen Mary re sumed the grant, and gave it to Dr. White, Poynet's successor; but Queen Elizabeth restored it to Henry Nevill, and it descend ed to his posterity, the Nevills of Bil- lingsbear. At Wargrave the Earl of Barrymore has a temporary residence ; adjoining the house an elegant theatre has lately been erected, in which dramatic performances are often exhibited by his Lordship and other per formers, for the amusement of their friends. Near this, on an elevated situation, stands LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 99 a handsome modern house, the property of Mr. Hill, commanding pleasant views along the Thames ; towards Reading on the west, and Henley on the north. Two miles beyond Wargrave, we ap proach the elegant seat of General Con way. SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD, &C. 101 SECT. VIII. PARK PLACE. x ark Place, the seat of General Conway, was purchased of Lord Archibald Hamilton, by the late Frederick Prince of Wales ; after whose death it was by his Ma jesty transferred to the present possessor. This seat is situated near Henley upon Thames, and displays more characteristic boldness of composition than any on the banks of that river. — The grounds are high ; formed into several grand projections, with deep vallies between. The woods are ex tensive ; judiciously arranged ; and the steep sides of the hills, with their chalky preci pices, are overhung with a variety of woody scenery, extending to the margin of the river, which glides below. 102 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM The higher grounds are adorned by woods, and groups of stately trees, inter spersed with many tufted clumps of beau tiful evergreens. The house is pleasantly situated, on a dry hill; and though near three hundred feet above the level of the water, is so sheltered by its woods and plantations, as to feel no inconvenience from its great elevation. The projecting lawns of these extensive grounds, are formed in a style correspond- ing with the grandeur of their other com ponent parts ; and become striking features in the landscape, from various points. Near the house, to the east, is a large shrubbery in clumps, intermixed with flow ers, from whence you pass over a small or namented lawn, to an inclosed flower gar den, elegantly laid out in the French taste ; and not far from this, to a menagerie, formed in a peculiar style of beauty ; well stocked with birds of various kinds, particularly pheasants, both English and foreign. From hence, entering a wood on the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 103 summit of the hill lying east, we pass through a subterraneous passage above eight hundred feet in length, which leads to a beautiful valley, planted on each side with tall cypress and other trees. Here stands a large ruin, in the Grecian style of architecture, the only one I recol lect to have seen in this manner ; designed and executed in a taste far exceeding most attempts of the kind. — Descending this val ley towards the Thames, we pass under a large arch curiously constructed ; and built of natural stones of vast dimensions ; brought at a considerable expence from various parts of the country. This structure, from its singularity, be comes an interesting object, whenever it is seen ; and is particularly picturesque when viewed from the water, or the opposite shore of the river. — The high road from Henley to Twyford passes through these grounds, and over the arch ; and being to tally excluded from the sight, by planta tions and shrubberies, no inconvenience, 104 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM or unpleasant circumstance attends it : on the contrary, by the judicious management of the whole, the place has been consider ably ornamented by it. On a hill, contiguous to the arch, stands a cottage tufted high in wood ; and com manding several pleasant views : the church of Henley appears through a glade to the north, where the woody hills of Oxford shire form the back ground. — Towards the east, the meanders of the river are indis tinctly caught, through the rich woody scenery which adorns the steep on which it stands; and on the west, the Thames glides in full stream, washing the skirts of the woods, to the whole extent of the grounds. Opposite the east front of the cottage, in a low situation, is a chalk cavern of large dimensions; in the formation of which, use and ornament have been equally consider ed. From the banks of the river we ap proach it by a narrow pass, overhung with trees ; in front, a perpendicular precipice of LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 105 great height presents itself; on the left is seen the elegant cottage, and on the right the gloomy and solemn entrance of the cavern. Proceeding southward, we enter a soli tary willowr-walk on the river bank *, here, in an angle close to the Thames, is an ele gant tomb of white marble, in the Roman style, perfectly characteristic, and well suit ed to the solemnity of the lonely and se questered spot in which it stands. Whilst we contemplate these scenes, and reflect upon the amiable character of the right honourable possessor, the following detached beautiful lines of a celebrated poet, come to our recollection. " How blest is he who crowns, in shades like these, f ' A youth of labour with an age of ease ; " And all his prospects bright'ning to the last, " His heaven commences ere the world is past!" GOLDSMITH. Advancing farther, and turning towards the right, the Thames appears through a beautiful arch, constructed of natural stones, 106 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of rude forms ; the upper part of which is composed of one entire piece. The variety of the scenery which decorates the rugged sides of this romantic arch ; the site in which it is so judiciously placed, with its other ac companiments, command our admiration. Along the high grounds on the north, to wards Henley, on two different promi nences, runs a noble terrace of great length ; from whence a complete bird's-eye view of the river, the town, and the surround ing country is obtained. A little beyond this, still farther northward, is a pleasant valley planted with lavender, and separated by a line of shrubs from a steep and rugged ravine, (through which the high road for merly passed) exhibiting a variety of rude and pleasing scenery. — Towards the bot tom stands a small stone house, much ad mired for its elegant simplicity, and just ness of proportion ; the whole forming a landscape very different from any before described. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 107 DESCRIPTION OF A DRUID TEMPLE. On the summit of a hill, near the southern quarter of the ornamented grounds, stands a Druid temple, of great and undoubted antiquity, which was presented by the in habitants of the Island of Jersey to General Coirway, their governor ; accompanied by an elegant inscription ; a copy of which fol lows. Cet ancien Temple des Druides, decouvertle izme Aout, 1785, sur la montagne de St. Helier, dans l'Isle de Jersey ; a ete presente par les habitans a son Excellence le General Conway, leur Gouverneur. Pour des siecles cache, aux regards des mortels, Cet ancien monument, ces pierres, ces autels, Ou le sang des humains offert en sacrifice, Ruissela, pour des Dieux qu'enfantoit le caprice. Ce monument, sans prix par son antiquite, Temoignera pour nous a la posterite, Que dans tous les dangers Cesaree eut un pere, Attentif, et vaillant, genereux, et prospere : Et redira, Conway, aux siecles avenir, Qu'en vertu du respect du a ce souvenir, Elle te fit ce don, acquis a ta vaillance, Comme un juste tribut de sa reconnoissance. 108 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM This altar, or temple, was a few years ago discovered on the summit of a high hill, near the town of St. Helier, in the Island of Jersey. — It is sixty feet in circumference ; composed of forty-five large stones, mea suring in general about seven feet in height, from four to six in breadth, one to three in thickness ; and contains six perfect lodges, or cells. The supposed entrance, or passage, faces the east, and measures fifteen feet in length, above four feet in breadth, in height about four feet ; and the covering of rude stones, from eighteen inches to two feet thick. Two medals were found in the temple ; one of the Emperor Claudius, and the other so worn by time, as to render it unintel ligible. By the very imperfect accounts we have of the history and antiquities of that island, there is reason to think it has been parti cularly the seat of the Druids, and of their worship. Mr. Poindextre, who wrote some tracts LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 109 on the affairs of Jersey, and died in the year 1691, says there were existing in that small island, no less than fifty Druid tem ples, or altars in his time ; of which the greater part were demolished when Falle published his history of that island, early in the present century. — He mentions a single altar of large dimensions, then stand ing on the same hill of St. Helier, the top stone of which was fourteen feet long, seven and a half broad, and three in thickness ; and near it a circle of other stones, of which there remained but one when he wrote. From the above account it is plain, this complete structure was not known at that time, though there was another large altar or temple, and another circle of stones, seen on the same hill. — The present temple re mained entirely covered with earth until the summer of 1785, having the appear ance of a large barrow or tumulus. It then happened that the colonel of the St. Helier militia, wanting to level the ground for the exercise of his corps, the workmen soon 110 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM struck on the stones, and the temple was discovered. There is no trace of the time when it was covered up ; not improbably in that of the Romans, by the Druids themselves, to pre serve it, as their most sacred temple, from the violence and profanation of that peo ple, who frequently persecuted them ; and who certainly had possession of the island, as appears from its Latin name Ccesarea, and from several other names, and some small vestiges remaining ; as well as from the coins often found in different parts of the island. OXFORDSHIRE. By Henley bridge we pass into Oxford shire. This county is bounded on the east by Buckinghamshire ; on the west by Glou cestershire ; on the north by Northampton shire and Warwickshire ; and on the south by Berkshire. — It is about forty-two miles in length, twenty-six in breadth, and one LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. Ill hundred and thirteen in circumference. It contains one city, fifteen market-towns, two hundred and eighty parishes, and four teen hundreds. The air of Oxfordshire is esteemed healthy ; the soil is naturally dry, and free from fens and stagnant waters, though plentifully supplied by a variety of running streams. — The productions of this county are cattle, fruit, free-stone, and several sorts of earth used in medicine, dying, and scouring ; but as it does not abound in wood, fuel is con sequently dear. The principal rivers are the Thames or Isis, theEvenlode, the Windrush, the Tame, and the Char well. — This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocess of Ox ford, and sends two representatives to par liament. HENLET UPON THAMES. Henley is a considerable town, pleasant ly situated on the banks of the Thames, 112 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM in the bottom of a valley surrounded by woody hills. — Its corporation consists of a warden, burgesses, and other officers. — The town is chiefly composed of one street ; a mixture of ancient and modern houses. The church is a stately building, standing conspicuously, near the end of the bridge ; and has lately been repaired . From hence a considerable trade in malt, meal, and corn, is carried on by means of the Thames, to various parts of the coun try, and to the metropolis. Dr. Plot takes Henley to be the most ancient town in the county, and supposes it might have been the capital of the An- calites. — Dr. Gale makes it the Calleva, or Galleva Attrebatum of Antoninus, and the Caleba of Ravannas ; on account of the Ro man road running directly from Spine hi ther, and the Roman coins found hereabout. —He supposes the Attrebatcs of Ptolemy and Antoninus were the same with the An- calte of Caesar, and the situation assigned them by Camden to be right. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 113 Here is a free-school founded by James I. and an alms-house by Longland Bishop of Lincoln. Henley bridge is built of a beautiful white stone ; consists of five arches ; and for just ness of proportion, agreement of parts, and the ease of its general lines, surpasses any that adorns the Thames. Its arches are neither elliptical or semicircular ; but are described from three centers, forming a com pound curve very pleasing to the eye. A neat pavement runs along each side, guarded by a low balustrade; and both fronts are enriched by pilasters, supported on semicircular projections of the piers. — The heads of the Tame and the Isis, which adorn the center arch, are executed by the Hon. Mrs. Darner ; whose general know ledge of science, and excellence in the dif ficult art of sculpture, are so universally acknowledged, as to render it unnecessary here to enlarge on them. The country surrounding Henley is beau tifully diversified by lofty woody hills, and I 114 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM other scenery, the lower grounds declining to the Thames. Looking towards the north, the woods and plantations on the grounds of Mr. Freeman adorn the western shore of the river ; on the east, a high woody ridge stretches towards the north ; the Thames gently gliding occupies the cen ter ; and the distance is terminated by the Oxfordshire hills. The steep face of Henley hill appears on the east; through the chalky sides of which, a new road has been lately cut : — a most noble and laudable work ; it contri butes equally to the advantage of the coun try, and to the pleasure and safety of the traveller. At the foot of this hill stands some houses and cottages intermixed with woody sce nery ; and on the south, Park Place, with all its variety of nobler decoration, is seen. At Henley bridge we repass the Thames ; and again join the high road at Twyford. Twyford is a small town, situated near the conflux of the Thames and the Lod- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 115 don ; the latter running at the west end of it in several separate channels, over each of which is a small bridge. From hence towards the north the eye ranges over a large district of well culti vated country, diversified by farms, woody hills, and some villages. Beyond Twyford the country, on both sides of the road, is oc cupied by rich meadows, watered by several streams from the Loddon ; which empties itself into the Thames a little below the town, on the north. Beyond this the road still continues on a level for some distance ; then ascending, runs on an unequal ridge, through an in closed woody country, to the thirty-seven mile stone : it then descends towards the town of Reading, the spires of which pre sent themselves to view in the west ; and Caversham Park is seen distinctly on the right beyond the Thames. 116 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM CAVERSHAM PARK. This seat stands nobly, on an elevated si tuation, about two miles from Reading, upon the north side of the Thames, near the road from that town to Henley. The house is a stately regular mansion, situated in a fine park, well sheltered by woods on the north. The grounds are much varied and une qual ; they were lately adorned by a va riety of majestic and venerable trees ; many of which it is much to be regretted are no longer to be seen. The use of the axe, at all times, ought to be sparingly and with the utmost caution applied : it ought ever to be remembered, that more can be destroyed by this fatal in strument, in one day, than can be restored by the utmost art of man in a succeeding century. This place in early times was the resi dence of the Mareshalls, Earls of Pembroke. It was likewise in the possession of the Lord LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 117 Knowles in the time of James I. and here Anne of Denmark, queen to that monarch, was splendidly entertained in her journey to Bath, in the year 1613. Sir Jacob Astley of Melton Constable, Norfolk, was, in recompence for his ser vices to Charles I. created Lord Astley of Reading ; which title became extinct at the death of his grandson Jacob. William Ca- dogan, who had signalized himself under, the Duke of Marlborough, and in suppress ing the rebellion in 1715, was created Lord Cadogan, Baron of Reading, in 1716; and two years afterwards, Baron Oakley, Vis count Caversham, and Earl Cadogan. All these titles expired with this nobleman ; except that of Baron Oakley, which de volved to his brother Charles, who died in 1776, and was succeeded by his son Charles Sloane, the present Lord Cadogan. Caversham House was built, by the Earl of Cadogan, in the reign of George I. — By the late Lord it was much reduced ; and 118 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM has been altered by Mr. Marsac, the pre sent proprietor. About two miles from Reading, and one from the Bath road, on the south shore of the river, the village of Sunning is plea santly situated. Here formerly stood a monastery and park, at the quarter of the village next to Reading. And Leland says, at the end' of the church there stood a chapel, formerly much resorted to in pilgrimage for the cure of madness ; and that nine bishops sat at Sunning, till Hermanus, the last of them, translated the see to Sarum ; whose bishops are lords, and had a manor house here be fore the conquest. About two miles before we arrive at Reading, a road on the left leads to White Knights ; lately the seat of Sir Henry In- glefield, Bart, but now of Mr. Neville. — The house is a stately building, situated in a pleasant park, well supplied with wood. Opposite the north front of the mansion is LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 119 a handsome piece of water, of an irregular easy form ; the lawns which compose the banks of the lake are well laid out, and are adorned by groups of stately trees, and other woody scenery. White Knights was one of the first ex amples of the Ferme Ornee ; — was remark able for the neatness and great order in which the grounds were kept ; and is si tuated in a rich well cultivated country. A little beyond this on the left, close to the road, stands Early Court, the seat of J. Bagnal, Esq. It is a neat white man sion, situated at the top of a sloping lawn, which extends to the road. The grounds are pleasingly unequal, and well clothed with wood of various kinds. A little more than a mile beyond. this, we arrive at the town of Reading. Before we pass this town, it may be ne cessary to mention, that a spacious new road was, by permission, made from Wind sor to Reading, being eighteen miles ; pass ing over Cranbourne Chace, through Wind- 120 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM sor forest ; by the pleasant villages of Wink- field, Warfield, and Binfield. From the number of elegant houses and seats to be seen from this road, with the rich and beautiful scenery of the noble fo rests through which it passes, it may be justly considered one of the most delightful rides, of that extent, in any country. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 121 SECT. IX. -Keading is a very large and populous town, thirty-nine miles from the metropolis ; situated upon an easy declivity, on the sou thern shore of the Thames. The streets are spacious and well paved ; the buildings in general are good, and some elegant houses adorn the different quarters of it. The river Kennet runs through the town in two separate streams, and falls into the Thames about a mile below it. — The surrounding country is finely diversified by gentlemen's seats, woody hills, and cultivated land ; and the Thames gliding through beautiful mea dows, encompasses the northern part of the town. Reading is the county town ; is governed 122 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twelve bur gesses and other officers, and sends two re presentatives to parliament. This town claims great antiquity, was of note before the Danish irruptions, and is said to have been a borough soon after the conquest. — Here are three parish churches, St. Mary, St. Giles, and St. Lawrence; the former of which is the most ancient. It does not appear from any traces now to be found, that Reading was surrounded by a wall, though it had a castle of consi derable note, the exact situation of which is not known. It is probable that the ab bey stood on its site ; and part of it was built out of its ruins. It is said to have been in the possession of the Danes, who made a ditch between the Thames and the Kennet ; and that they retreated thither af ter they had been routed by the Saxon King Ethel wolf. In 827, the Danes surrendered the town to the Saxons, by whom it was plundered ; a calamity which it again ex perienced about 1006. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 123 A magnificent abbey was founded here by Henry I. about the year 1 124, which stood between the two rivers before mention ed. It was endowed with great privileges, enjoying the patronage of all the churches and chapels, together with all pleas and suits of courts within the borough of Read ing, with many other ample immunities. The bodies of Henry I. his Queen, and (as some say) of his daughter Maud, the Em press, were buried here. This venerable and stately edifice was long the greatest ornament of the town ; parliaments were held in the chamber of the refectory within the abbey ; and in the reign of Henry VI. some laws were enacted in it. Dr. Stukeley mentions his having seen the shell of a room, eighty-four feet by forty-six, having three narrow windows on the east, and three doors and windows to the west ; which he supposes to have been the chapel. The gate-house is still standing, and is a picturesque ruin ; the other remains are massy blocks of flint walls, 124 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM eight feet thick, and seem to have been cased with stone. At its dissolution this superb build ing was most shamefully abused, part of it having been converted into stables, and other similar uses ; and by the fanatic and mistaken zeal of that period, the ashes of its illustrious founder were, through con tempt, scattered in the air. Reading stood a siege in the reign of Charles I . and made a gallant defence against the Parliament army, consisting of sixteen thousand foot, and three thousand horse, commanded by the Earl of Essex. — The garrison made an honourable capitulation ; afterwards joined the King's army in the neighbourhood, and marched with it to Ox ford. This town was formerly renowned for its extensive manufactories in woollen cloth, but has little of that commerce remaining. Its chief trade now consists of malt, meal, corn, timber, and sail cloth. — Manufactories of silk and lawns have lately been estab- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 125 lished, and from the encouragement they have already received, promise a source of wealth to the town. Reading has to boast of having given birth to two distinguished characters ; Lord Chief Justice Holt, and the pious Archbishop Laud. — The latter was the son of a wealthy clothier in the town ; founded an hospital in it, and liberally endowed it. On the right of the town, a bridge ex tending across the Thames to the village of Caversham, leads to the Henley road ; which runs along the north side of the beautiful vale through which the Thames glides, af fording a variety of rural landscape, inter mixed with farms, villages, and seats. On Catsgrove hill, near Reading, a stra tum or bed of oyster shells was discovered, of five or six acres in extent. — It is par ticularly mentioned by John Lowthorp, M. A. in his second volume of the Abridge ment of the Philosophical Transactions, page 427, 428, communicated to the Royal Society by Dr. James Brewer ; and is wor- 126 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM thy the notice of the curious in natural history. From a rising ground, at the western extremity of Reading, the road runs along a ridge for two miles, through a well culti vated country, with extensive prospects to wards the south. Here, upon a hill on the north, stands a neat house, the residence of Edward Bower, Esq. embosomed in wood, and by its elevated situation commands charming views ; having the town of Read ing on the east, a large tract of distant country on the south, and encompassed by woody hills and cultivated grounds on the north and west. On the opposite side of the road, in a wood, is an ancient house, lately the resi dence of Mr. Belgrave. Its situation is low, but being well screened by woods from every quarter, is rendered a comfort able retreat. Hence the road winds through a beauti ful woodland country, composed of easy hills and sloping vallies. Near the forty- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 127 two mile stone, on the right, is the seat of J. Belgrave, Esq. — It is a handsome regular structure, with wings, situated in a pleasant park, well supplied with wood . The grounds are composed of a variety of shelving lawns well formed ; and rendered agreeable by groups and clumps of trees, judiciously scattered on them . The house is well screen ed on the north, by thick woods; and a small common of rural appearance, through which the road passes, lies on the south. Beyond this is a continuation of the same kind of woody country, highly enriched by cultivation ; and through the scenery on the left, glances of the Kennet, which glides in a beautiful valley on the south, are ob tained : the road now descends, and we ap proach Theal. Theal is a neat village ; on the south it is skirted by fertile meadows, watered by the Kennet, beyond which, a chain of woody hills close the view in the horizon ; on the north, the country becomes more 128 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM level, and is occupied by inclosures, farms, and cottages, interspersed with wood. ENGLEFIELD HOUSE. About a mile to the northwest of Theal is Englefield House, the seat of Richard Benyon, Esq. Englefield originally gave name to a very ancient family, who long resided at it. This seat was built in a magnificent manner by one of the Paulets, Marquises of Winchester ; but was reduced and modernized by the late proprietor, Paulet Wright, Esq. who was lineally de scended from that noble family. It is at this time a stately mansion, well situated in the east quarter of the park, near the village. A range of woods, on a rising ground, extends along the north ; from the south the grounds decline towards the center, which is occupied by a piece of water, of an irregular serpentine form ; the banks LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 129 are rendered pleasant by a variety of woody scenery, and the park is adorned by many venerable and stately trees. The second and last Marquis of Winchester, who de fended Basing House, is buried in the church at Englefield.In the meads, on the north side of the Kennet, is a square entrenchment, probably thrown up when Earl Ethelwolf fought and routed the Danes here in the year 871. Two miles north of Englefield is the vil lage of Bradfield, where a monastery was founded by King Ina, before the year 699. All that now remain are vestiges of the walls, and part of a gate leading to the church, built of flint ; and the Rector takes tythes of abbey lands, which are free else where. From the high grounds above this vil lage, to the south, is an extensive and dis tant view of the Hampshire and Berkshire hills. A steep descent down a chalky cliff opens to a valley, composed of woody and cultivated hills, through which the Thames K 130 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM glides. In the bottom lies the village of Pangbourn, and on the upper grounds stands Baselden ; from the hill above which is the most extensive view in this country, — in clear weather the spires of Oxford, twenty- five miles distant, are discernible. Near this is Baselden Park, formerly the seat of the Lord Viscount Fane ; now of Sir F- Sykes, Bart. The. park is large, and inclosed by a wall of flint stones. Four miles south-by-west of Englefield is Padworth. This seat was formerly in possession of the Forsters ; lately of Chris topher Griffith, Esq. and is now the pro perty and residence of Mrs. Griffith. It is.a noble mansion, delightfully situated on the north side of the vale, through which the Kennet runs. Standing on elevated ground, it commands prospects towards Woolhamp- ton, Theal, and Caversham, on the oppo site side ; and extensive views along the river towards Newbury on the west, and Reading on the east. The house is well sheltered by wood, and the grounds have LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 131 an easy slope to the meadows in the valley. Near this place, the Earl of Essex passed the Kennet to attack King Charles I. at Newbury. Near Pad worth, on the east, stands Ufton Court, the seat of Mr. Perkins, delightfully situated. West of Padworth, is the village of Al- dermanston, near which stands an ancient mansion, formerly the seat of Sir Humphry Forster ; whose ancestor was sheriff of Berk shire in 1475. It came by marriage to Wil liam, the third Lord Stawell, and devolved to his posterity. About three miles eastward from Alder- manston, stood Silchester, a Roman city of great note ; and according to some of our antiquarians, the Vindonium of that people, built by Constantine the Great, in the year 337. The space this ancient town occu pied is about eighty acres, now divided into rich cultivated fields ; and when Stukeley wrote, there remained but one solitary house, with the church. The vestiges of 132 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM the walls and the gates of the town are still to be seen, and may be considered as the most perfect remains of Roman grandeur in this island. On the north-east side, are still the traces of an amphitheatre; now converted into the ignoble use of a straw-yard and watering- pond for cattle. Many were the Roman ways that cen tered near this place, few of which are now remaining. The chief of these run from the south gate of the town, to the north gate of Winchester : — another from the south gate by Andover, to the camps at Eastbury and Quarley ; crossing the river at Port-town, in a direct line to the east sate of Old Sarum. In the neighbourhood are many tumuli, and the traces of some camps ; particularly one at a place called the Soak, about a mile and a half from Silchester. Not far from hence lies Mortimer Heath, a black dreary tract of barren soil, across which ran a Roman way to Silchester ; but is not now traceable so far. There are se- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 133 veral barrows on its north side, and many considerable ones in its neighbourhood. Returning from Silchester, and repass ing the Kennet, we proceed from Theal over a flat, skirted by pleasant meadows on the south. Beyond this, the country on the right assumes a bolder appearance ; a chain of hills finely tufted with wood pre sent themselves ; gradually increasing as we approach Woolhampton. Woolhampton is a neat village, composed of good houses, pleasantly situated, beneath the south side of the ridge of hills, which forms the north side of the vale that leads to Newbury, At the end of the village we ascend by a road to the seat of Mrs. Crew, standing on an elevated situation, about half a mile on the right. The house is a good mansion, well screened by woods. From many parts of the grounds belonging to this seat, and from the high hill above the village, a great 134 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM variety of pleasing rural scenery is pre sented to view. The sides of the hills are composed of steep and bold irregularities, shelving into deep and solemn vallies ; beautifully adorn ed by a variety of woody scenery, inter mixed with farms and cottages ; and varied by extensive prospects towards the south and east. Beyond Woolhampton, a large tract of beautiful meadow land occupies the valley on the left ; and the same chain of woody hills, constantly changing their features, continues on the right. Advancing farther, the road ascends, and is more inclosed as we approach Thatcham. Before we enter Thatcham, Dunsted Park, the seat of Sir A. Crofts, appears on the right. The house is a stately regular man sion, well situated on the south side of a woody ridge, which screens it on the north. The grounds are pleasingly varied, and LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 135 well furnished with wood ; commanding views of the town, the opposite side of the valley ; and extensive prospects towards the east. Thatcham is a small neat town, chiefly composed of one street ; having some good houses, and a small church. It was for merly a manor of the Winchcombs, from whom it passed by marriage to Henry Vis count Bolingbroke ; now in the possession of Sir A. Crofts. Opposite to this, on the south side of the valley, the seat of Mr. Mount stands con spicuously ; the house is a handsome build ing, and its grounds are well adorned with wood. From Thatcham the road runs along un equal ground, till within two miles of New bury ; it then becomes more level, and in closed, and the country, on both sides of the river, is composed of woody hills, in terspersed with farms, declining towards the vale. 136 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Near Newbury, in a retired situation on the right, is Shaw, the seat of Sir Joseph Andrews, formerly in the possession of the Dolemans. This is a very ancient mansion, much inclosed in wood ; and is rendered of note for having been the place in which Sir George Lisle was posted at the second battle of Newbury, in 1644. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 137 SECT. X. NEWBURT. Newbury is a large and populous town, fifty-six miles from the metropolis, situated in a fertile plain, watered by the Kennet ; — it rose out of the ruins of Speen, and part of it still goes under the denomi nation of Spinham Land. The streets are spacious and well paved : it contains many good houses, a large church ; and the market-house, over which is the guildhall, is a noble building. It is in the hundred of Faircross ; a vicarage in the gift of the crown, and is governed by a mayor, high steward, and burgesses : but sends no representatives to parliament. Newbury was once noted for its extensive manufactories in woollen cloth ; little of 138 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM which now remain, this commerce having been carried to the more western parts of the kingdom. The loss is in some measure supplied, by the Kennet having been made navigable to the town ; by means of which a considerable trade is carried on to the eastern part of the kingdom. The surrounding country is diversified by woody hills, interspersed with farms, cottages, and some handsome houses ; the valley, which is watered by the Kennet, af fording luxuriant pasture for numerous herds of cattle constantly seen grazing in it. Newbury is remarkable for having been the scene of action in two succeeding years, between King Charles I. and the Parlia ment army ; his Majesty commanding at both in person : the former was fought at the Barrows, on the Wash, two miles south east of the town. Before the battle, the royal army was in good condition in the town, well sup plied with provisions, and having several garrisons in the neighbourhood, could be LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 139 at no loss for succour. On the other hand, the Rebel troops, from the time they had been attacked, the preceding day, by Prince Rupert, stood on their arms in the field, without any supply of provisions, or refresh ment whatever ; which gave the King's ar my an evident advantage over them. Sen sible of this, on the preceding evening his Majesty came to the resolution, not to ha zard a battle, unless on such grounds as should give an assurance of victory. On the morn of the eighteenth of Septem ber, 1643, the Earl of Essex with excellent conduct drew up his army in order of battle, on Bigg's-hill, less than a mile from the town ; and posted his men in all quarters to the best advantage. By the precipitate courage of some young officers, whr had commands in the royal army, and who too often unhappily undervalued the courage of the enemy, strong parties became so far en gaged, that the King, contrary to his for mer resolution, was compelled to put the whole to the hazard of a battle. 140 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM It was disputed on both sides with e- qual intrepidity, and with various success ; and night at length parting them, each had time to revolve the oversights of the day. The Rebels finding themselves in no worse situation than they had reason to expect ; and being under the absolute ne cessity of gaining some place where they might rest, and be supplied with provisions, they early in the morning put themselves in the order of marching. The King's ar my, more, cautious than on the preceding day, chose rather to take advantage of the enemy's motion, than to charge them again upon the former ground. The Earl of Essex finding his way open, marched towards Reading. Prince Rupert observing this, suffered him without inter ruption to pass, till his whole army was en tered into the narrow lanes ; then, with a strong party of horse, and one thousand musqueteers, followed the rear with so good effect, that they were thrown into great LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 141 disorder, having many killed and taken pri soners. After this disaster, the Earl with the greatest part of his army, and all his can non, got safe to Reading ; and after a few nights spent there in refreshing the troops, he moved in a slow and orderly march to London, leaving Reading to the King's forces, which was presently possessed by Sir Jacob Astley, and made a garrison for his Majesty. On the King's side in this battle fell those distinguished characters, the Earl of Sun derland, Earl of Carnarvon, and the Lord Viscount Falkland; an irreparable loss to his Majesty in his future operations. SECOND BATTLE AT NEWBURY. In the succeeding year, another battle was fought at Newbury. The King with his army was quartered in the town, having strong posts at Shaw, Speen, and on other 142 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM advantageous grounds ; and being very in ferior in numbers, resolved to act upon the defensive. On Sunday morning, the twenty -seventh of October 1644, by break of day, a part of the Earl of Manchester's army, came down the hill and passed the river by Shaw ; and undiscovered forced that guard, which should have kept the pass near the house ; but were repulsed by Sir Bernard Astley, who was entrenched near it, with great loss. The Rebel army having almost encom passed that of the King, constant fighting continued, though with much more loss to them than to him ; till about three in the afternoon, Waller with his own, and the forces which had been under the Earl of Essex, fell upon the quarter at Speen, and passed the river ; he then marched with great bodies of foot, winged with horse, towards the heath ; from whence the horse stationed there, being overpowered, were obliged to retire. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 143 By these means the enemy possessed them selves of the ordnance, which had been placed there, and of the village of Speen. Several other desperate assaults were made by the enemy on Shaw, and other posts, but were repulsed with great slaughter. — Skirmishes with various success continued the whole day, and night coming on, end ed the fight ; a seasonable relief to both parties. The King finding himself destitute of part of his artillery, accompanied by the Prince, those lords who had been with him all the day, and his regiment of guards, retired under the cannon of Donnington Castle. Perceiving the great superiority of numbers against him ; and sensible of the danger of being surrounded by the enemy, if he remained in this situation, he ordered all the carriages and great ordnance to be drawn to the same place, where the rest of the army joined him ; and hearing that Prince Rupert was arrived at Bath, his Ma jesty with the Prince of Wales made haste 144 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM' thither, and finding Prince Rupert, pro ceeded with expedition to Oxford. After this the King's army was not in so bad a condition as was conceived ; the troops posted in the field near Speen, kept their ground resolutely, and though it was a fair moon-light night, the enemy, who were very near, and much superior in numbers, thought not fit to disturb them. That party of the enemy which had been so roughly handled at Shaw, having been reinforced by a strong body of horse, re solved once more to make an attempt on that post, but were again repulsed with loss. This was the last action between the ar mies ; for about ten at night, all the horse, foot, and artillery, drew forth their several guards to the heath above Donnington Castle, in which they left most of their wounded, with all their ordnance, ammu nition, and carriages. Prince Maurice then marched in good order to Wallingford, committing the rear to Sir Humphrey Ben- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 145 net ; who, with his brigade of horse, march ed behind, and received not the least inter ruption from the enemy. Many questioned which party had the advantage of the day ; and neither was sa tisfied with its success : but there can be no doubt that there were many more killed of the Rebels than of the King's army. HIGH CLE RE PARK. On the south, about five miles from New bury, is High Clere, the seat of Lord Port- chester. The park is extensive, and well furnished with wood of various kinds, kept in perfect order. — It is partly divided by a piece of water of serpentine forms, which runs along a vale in a south and north di rection ; over which are two bridges ; and its banks are decorated by well adapted woody scenery. At the northern extremity, the water expands, assuming the appear ance of a lake. From a noble lawn not far from the en- L 146 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM *9 trance to the park, a delightful landscape presents itself. — A hill finely hung with wood, sloping to the lake, forms "a screen on the right : on the left, stately groups of trees stand on the foreground, which is composed of a variety of shelving banks ; the water, finely broken by tufted wood, oc cupies the center, and a rich country re tiring from the woody banks of the lake, closes the distance in the horizon. The house stands well in the south-wrest quarter of the park, near which a very high hill rises boldly on the south, giving a cha racteristic appearance to the place ; and it becomes a distinguished object, as well as a conspicuous landmark, from many parts of the surrounding country. High Clere Park stands in Hampshire; and for extent, boldness of feature, softened by a mixture of easy swelling lawns, shelv ing into pleasant vallies, diversified by wood and water, claims the admiration of the tra veller, and may be considered as one of the most elegant seats in this country. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 147 From Newbury we proceed to Speen, the ancient Roman Spince, mentioned by Antoninus ; formerly of renown, now re duced to an unconnected village. It is si tuated on the Kennet, a little more than a mile west of Newbury, and in the Bath road ; is in the hundred of Faircross, and deanery of Newbury ; Contains some good houses, and a small church. It was the opinion of Dr. Stukeley, that the Ikening Street, coming from the Thames at Goring, and another Roman way, running hence through this place to Hungerford, crossed the river Kennet on the north part of Newbury. — Mr. Willis of Andover, and some other of our anti quarians, think differently ; and suppose, that the Roman road in Hampshire, called Chute Casway, crossed the Kennet east of Marlborough ; divided into a Vicinal way, from Bradbury camp, near Wanborough, and ran from thence to White Horse Hill, by Wantage and Goring to Royston. It has been traced from Marlborough by 148 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM Escourt, to the north gate of Winchester, after having crossed the Portway at Easton Town farm, not far from Andover. DONNINGTON GROVE. Opposite Speen, in a valley on the right, in view from the road, is Donnington Grove, the seat of William Brummell, Esq. The house is a handsome building, and though modern, the architecture is a species of Gothic ; it was built by J. Pettit Andrews Esq. of whom it was purchased by the pre sent possessor. It is pleasantly situated on a sloping lawn, under a ridge of woody hills, screening it from the north ; on which appear the vene rable ruined towers of Donnington Castle. — In the vale, in front of the house, runs the Lamborne stream, enlarged and made into a handsome piece of water of an agree able form, above a mile in length ; in w hich are several islands covered with wood, af fording protection to the feathered inhabi- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 149 tants of the lake, which are numerous ; and its banks are decorated by clumps of trees, and other woody scenery. Near the lower extremity, a handsome wooden bridge of one arch extends across it ; here it contracts, and is lost in planta tions. Towards the upper end the water gradually diminishes, and imperceptibly vanishes among solemn groves of stately trees. The grounds are well furnished with wood, have been lately altered and much improved. By the present possessor, the water has been enlarged, many planta tions have been made ; and other improve ments are in contemplation. The Lamborne river abounds with fish of various kinds ; and, as well as the Ken net, is noted for its trout and cray fish. — This river gives name to a village through which it runs ; and a singularity attends it, contrary to the nature of all others ; it is always highest in summer, gradually de creasing as the winter approaches. 150 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM DONNINGTON CASTLE. At a small distance from Donnington Grove, upon a hill on the north-east, stands Donnington Castle ; rearing its ruined head above the remains of the venerable oaks that formerly surrounded it. — Its situation is lofty, commanding the western road, and it was a post of great consequence, during the civil wars, in the time of Charles I. It withstood a siege of three weeks against the Rebel army, commanded by the Earl of Man chester ; during which time a thousand great shot were spent upon its walls, and three of its towers were beaten down. The gover nor notwithstanding, refused either to give or accept quarter, on any terms whatever ; and bravely defended his ruined fortress till relieved by the King's army : in recom- pence for which gallant behaviour, he was knighted by his Majesty at Newbury. The day after the second battle of New bury, Donnington Castle was again be- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 151 sieged ; the governor was summoned to sur render it, with a threat, that unless he im mediately complied, one stone should not be left upon another. To which he made no other reply, than that he was not bound to repair it, and that he was determined to keep the ground afterwards. All possible means were then made use of, to induce the governor to give the place up ; he even had leave to march away, with arms, cannon, ammunition, and every thing else that belonged to the garrison. To these propositions he only answer ed, the Rebels might be assured, that he would not go out of the castle, till he had the King's orders so to do. After this it was attempted by assault ; but being warmly received, and their com manding officer killed, they retreated with great confusion ; made no farther attempts upon it, and in a few days the King with his army came to its relief. Donnington Castle is likewise rendered of note, for having been the residence of the 151 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM immortal Chaucer.— Alice, daughter of Sir Thomas Chaucer, son to the poet, married William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk. On his attainder, it came to the crown ; after wards by grant of Henry VII. to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. — In the reign of King James I. it belonged to the Packers, whose heiress married Dr. Hartley, ances tor to Mr. Hartley, the present proprietor. BEN HAM HOUSE. A rising ground leads from the village of Speen to Benham House, a seat of Ld . Craven . — From the high road we enter the park by a gate, with a handsome lodge on each side ; and descend by a spacious road through a wood, to the open grounds ; on entering which a variety of views are presented. On the south, beyond the vale through which the Kennet runs, Hampstead Mar shall Park, well adorned with wood, is seen. On this side the valley the grounds are much varied and unequal ; are decorated LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 153 by clumps of stately trees, interspersed with water, and a variety of woody scenery. On the west beyond the valley, higher grounds appear, crowned with extensive, woods, joined to tracts of downs in bold projec tions ; and toward the east, we view a large district of well cultivated woody country, with a flat composed of meadow land be tween. The house is a regular mansion of the Ionic order, having an elegant portico on the south front. It is built on a sloping bank, embosomed in a deep and solemn grove, composed of trees of various kinds. On the south lies a piece of water, sup plied by the Kennet ; over which is a hand some wooden bridge, in the Chinese taste. The north side of the grounds is orna mented by woods, round which the high road makes a sweep, running along to the western gate. — Through the vale on the south the Kennet glides ; but being much sunk, is not discernible from hence. 154 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD, &C. On the opposite side of the vale is Hamp- stead Marshal, another seat belonging to, and formerly the residence of this noble fa mily. It is a fine park of great extent ; its grounds are high, much varied, and well furnished with wood. This place had its name from the Marshal of England, whose property and residence it was. — The house mentioned by Mr. Cam den, having been burnt down ; was begun to be rebuilt by William Lord Craven, who died in 1697, and was completed in a mag nificent style by his successor. This house unfortunately having been also consumed by fire, it induced the present Lord Cra ven to build the seat before described, on the opposite side of the river, now his re sidence. END OF THE FIRST PART. Fold out TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. WITH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNTS OF THE COUNTRY, TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND GENTLE MEN'S SEATS ON AND ADJACENT TO IT; ILLUSTRATED BY PERSPECTIVE VIEWS OF THE MOST SELECT AND PICTURESQUE SCENERY. To which is added, A CORRECT MAP OF THE COUNTRY Three Miles on each Side of the Road ; planned from a Scale of One Inch to a Mile. BY ARCHIBALD ROBERTSON. IN TWO PARTS. PART II. LONDON: printed for the author, charles-street, st. james's sojjarej and r, faulder, bond-street. d.dccxch. CONTENTS TO PART II. SECTION I. Country beyond Newbury, page l. — Wel- ford, and Welford Park, 3. — Village of Wickham, 4. — Barton Court, ib. — Village of Kintbury, 5. — Hungerford, ib. — Fa mily of the Hungerfords, 6. — Hungerford Park, 7. — Chilton Lodge, 8. SECT. II. Description of Wiltshire, 10. — Littlecot Park, 13. — An ancient Rom,an Pavement found there, 14. — Ramesbury, 16. — Ramesbury Manor, 17. — Froxfield, 18. — Somerset Almshouse, ib. — Tottenham Park, 20. — Severnake Forest, 21. — Tottenham House, 11. SECT. III. Marlborough, 24. — Marlborough Faptily,17. — Country beyond Marlborough, 28. — Sil- IV CONTENTS. bury Hill, a remarkable Barrow, 29.— Abury, a magnificent Druidical Temple, 3 1 . — Remains of Roman Fortifications, and other Monuments of Antiquity, 36. — Village of Beckhampton, whence the Road to Bath by the Devizes branches off to the left, 31. —Singular Effect of a Fog, ib.— White Horse Hill, 40. — Whence it took its Name, ib. — Battle of Eddington, 41. — Bratton Castle, ib.—Compton House, 43.— Black- lands, 44. SECT. IV. Calne, 45. — Bozvood, 48. — Spye Park, 55. — Laycock, 58. — Laycock Nunnery, ib. — Studley House, the last Residence of the great and ancient Family of the Hunger- fords in this Country, 60. — Studley, the undoubted Scite of a Roman Colony, 61. — Studley Abbey, formerly a Monastery of Cistercian Monks, ib. SECT. V. Chippenham, 61. — Draicot House, 63. — Cor- sham, 65. — Cor sham House, 66. — Hartham Park,6S.—Box, 69.— House of Mr. Wilt shire, 7 1 . — Bath-easton, 72. CONTENTS. V SECT. VI. ROAD BY THE DEVIZES. Bishops Cannings, 75. — Roman Way, ib. — Roundaway Hill, 76. — Wansdike, 77. — Battle of Roundaway Hill, ib. — Round- away Castle, 82. — Oldbury Castle, 83. — Eddington, ib. — Devizes, 84. — Castle of Devizes, 85. — New Park, 88. — Stoke Park, ib. — Salisbury Plain, 91. — Stone- henge, 93. — Country beyond the Devizes, 99. — Melksham, ib. — Kings down Hill, 100. — Bathford, 101. — Short Retrospect of the County of Wilts, ib. SECT. VII. Description of Somersetshire, 104. — Ancient Bath, its Origin, 108. — Story of Bladud, 110. — Mr. Wood's Conjectures respecting the Origin of Bath, and of its Extent at different Periods, 111. — Temple of Mi nerva, 1 14. — The various Names of Bath at different Periods, 1 1 5. — Bath reduced by the Romans about the Tear 8 1 , and next by King Aljred, when he founded the Eng lish Monarchy, ib. — Remains of noble Ro- VI CONTENTS. man Baths and Sudatories found in 1755, 118. SECT. VIII. Modern Bath, its Situation, 120. — Rapid In crease of Bath within the last sixty Tears, 111. — General Description of Bath, 111. — Different Degrees of Heat, and Efficacy of the Bath Waters, 131. — Amusements of Bath, &c: 131 . — Benevolent Institutions of Bath, 140. — The four Churches of Bath de scribed, 143. — Government of Bath, 147. SECT IX. Country in the Vicinity of Bath, 1 50. — Prior Park, ib. — Farley Castle, 151. — Lans- down, 153. — Battle of Lansdown, ib. — Principal Vale of Bath, 157. — Ne-wton, ib. — Newton Park, 158. — House of the late Sir Ccesar Hawkins, ib. — Keynsham, 1 59. — Druidical Temple at Stanton Drew, 160. SECT. X. Account of the City of Bristol, 163. — Of the Antiquity of Bristol, 164. — Situation, Ex tent, Wealth, and Commerce, of the City of CONTENTS. vil Bristol, 170, 171, 111.— Churches and other public Buildings of Bristol, 113, 174. — Government of Bristol, 175. SECT. XL Description of Gloucestershire, 111 . — Clifton, 180. — Bristol Hotwell, 182. — Efficacy of the Water, 183. — The stupendous Rock of St. Vincent, ib. — Roman Antiquities in the Neighbourhood of Bristol, 1 86. IKDEX TO THE PLATES. Avon, View down the. River, — facing page 1 86 Bath, general View of, — — 1 20 , Bridge of St. Lawrence, — 146 , New Bridge, — — 126 , Lansdown Place, — — 124 , South Parade, — I2Z Beckhampton Downs, View on, - 38 Benham, Country beyond, — — 1 Bowood, — — - 48 Box, View of, — — 70 Box, Valley of, — — 72 Chippenham, View of, — — 62 Compton House, — — 42 Corsham House, — — — 66 Devizes, View in the, — - 84 Draycot House, — — - 64 Farley Castle, — — 150 Froxfield, View of, — — 18 Hartham Park, — — 68 Hawkins, Sir Cassar, House of - — 158 Hotwell House, Approach to, — 180 Hotwell House, from beyond the Avon, — 184, Lansdown, Monument on, — — '54 — 12 Littlecot Park, View in, — Marlborough, View of, — — 24 Marlborough Market-place, — — 26 Silbury Hill, — _ — 28 Stoke Park, — 88 Stonehenge, — 92 — 22 Tottenham House, — St. Vincent's Rock, — — 182 Welford House — 2 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY, ire. SECT. I. After leaving the pleasant town of Newbury, and 'passing Benham, the road, winding in a western direction, gradually sinks into a bottom, following the course of the Kennet. The grounds which form the north side of the valley through which that river flows, are composed of a range of woody hills, the declivities of which are in a high state of cultivation, extending to the great road ; agreeably chequered with farm houses and cottages. On the south, are ridges of vol. n. B 2 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM downs, pleasantly diversified by woody hills, and cultivated land ; sloping down to the river. Here, the soil being of a cold and swampy nature, the meadows are by no means so beautiful, nor the herbage so delicate, or rich, as in many other parts along the banks of the Kennet. This deficiency is however in some degree compensated by the immense quantity of peat produced; serving the double purpose of manure for the land, and of fuel, which in this part of the country is scarce. A continuation of the same kind of scenery leads to the half way House. Hence, leaving the high road, and turn ing to the right, we ascend a rural avenue formed of stately oaks, and other kinds of trees, here abounding ; then, passing through a tract of well-cultivated country we arrive at Wickham Heath, a consi derable waste, from the upper ridge "of which, extensive prospects of the surround ing country are obtained. A sudden de- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 3 scent on the northern side, leads to the vil lage of Welford, situated in a low, narrow ravine, on the verge of the Common. WELFORD, AND WELFORD PARK. Welford is a long scattered village, ex tending to the bottom of the vale, through which runs the river Lambourne. The houses are low, and indifferently built. At the further end is a small church, having a circular tower and spire, making a pic turesque appearance. Near this edifice stands Welford House, the seat of Archer, Esq. an ancient brick mansion. The pleasure-grounds are neat, well laid out, and have the advantage of being watered by a branch of the Lam bourne winding through them. On the north, the stream expands into a piece of water of a square form, well stored with excellent fish. Welford Park lies on the south, and is separated from the house and gardens by a B2 4 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM public road : the grounds are agreeably va ried, and well ornamented by wood, but of small extent. On the north, and westward, the country is more open, consisting of cul tivated land, with farm houses, and some scattered wood. About a mile farther south, is the village of Wickham, built on a declivity surrounded by woody hills, and on the highest ground stands a small neat chapel. Hence, return ing to the high road, we pass through a woodland and well-cultivated tract of coun try. Proceeding from the half-way House, the road winds along the bottom of a pleasant valley, in the highest state of cultivation ; equally rich and fertile on both sides. Near the sixty-two mile stone, stands Barton Court, the residence of Charles Dun- das, Esq. The house is a good brick build ing, with wings, pleasantly situated on a branch of the Kennet ; and protected on the north side, by rows of stately trees. On the opposite side of the valley stands LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 5 the village of Kintbury, built on a declivity extending along the southern bank of that river ; — a small church occupies the centre, surrounded by houses of a mean appear ance, and indifferently built. — In digging a grave here, in the year 1762, a large quan tity of Saxon coins, of Elfred, Edwy, and Edmund, were found under a skull. HUNGERFORD. Sixty-four miles and a half from the me tropolis, the traveller approaches Hunger ford, by a small bridge. This is a market town, built in a marshy situation on the Kennet; and divided by two separate streams of that river. It is composed of a mixture of ancient and modern buildings, chiefly comprehended in two parallel streets. Some of the houses now inhabited, are entirely covered with ivy, and have other distinguishing marks of antiquity. The principal street is of considerable 6 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM length, extending from the river in a south and north direction, and nearly in the mid dle stands the market-house, a handsome modern building ; and the church, at the end of a pleasant avenue, in the western quarter of the town, appears conspicuous from the high road. In this church is an ancient brass plate of Robert de Hunger « ford, the first of that family in this county. His nephew, Sir Thomas, was the first Speaker of the House of Commons, 51, Edw. III. Hungerford, anciently Ingle ford Char- man-street, gave name and title to the il lustrious family of the Barons Hungerford . It was first built by Walter Hungerford, Steward of the Household to Henry V. who, for his valour and services, had the castle and barony of Hornet in Normandy, conferred on him by that prince. Sir Robert Hungerford, Lord Molins, a descendant of Walter Hungerford, was se veral years a prisoner in France, taken while he was attempting the relief of Chestillon, LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 7 in 3 1 , Henry V I . — He paid more than twelve thousand marks for his liberty ; after which, being faithful to the Lancastrian interest, he was attainted by parliament in the reign of Edward VI. was taken prisoner at the battle of Hexham, conveyed to Newcastle, and there beheaded. His corpse was car ried to Salisbury, and interred in the north aisle of the cathedral. The Constable, who is chosen annually, is Lord of the Manor, and holds it imme diately of the crown. They shew a horn here, holding about two quarts; which, from an inscription upon it, appears to have been given by John of Gaunt, who procured them a grant of the royal fishery in the Kennet ; noted for its trout, eels, and crayfish. Ingleford Charman-street is supposed to be a corruption of the Ford of the Angles, or Herman-street, a Roman road running to Marlborough. South-east, a mile from this town, was Hungerford Park, now mostly converted 8 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM into cultivated land . On this spot stands a handsome, low house, the seat of Charles Dolbiac, Esq. which still retains the appel lation of Hungerford Park. It is surround ed by neat pleasure-grounds, kept in per fect order. On the west and south, it is sheltered by woods; ridges of downs pre sent themselves in the horizon on the east ; and being more open to the north, rich and extensive views are obtained along the op posite side of the vale. About two miles from Hungerford, to the right of the Salisbury road, stands a neat white house, the residence of Captain Percy; well protected by woods on the north ; with downs appearing on the south east, and a flat, cultivated country between. CHILTON LODGE. On the right, a little beyond Hunger ford, in 1791, stood Chilton Lodge, the seat of General Smith; a handsome mo dern house, boldly and conspicuously situ- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 9 ated, about a mile and a half from the Bath road. The estate has since been sold, and is now the property of William Morland, Esq. By this gentleman great alterations are mak ing ; the house has been pulled down, and another erected on the declivity of a hill, nearer the river. This estate lies partly in Berkshire, and partly in Wiltshire ; the former house stood in Wilts, the present is in Berkshire, and the boundary of these counties divides the park. 10 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM SECT. II. WILTSHIRE. A little beyond Hungerford we en ter Wiltshire, which is bounded on the north and north-west by Gloucestershire, on the west by Somersetshire, on the south by Dor setshire, and on the south-east by Hamp shire. — Its general form is nearly a regular oblong, extending in length upwards of fifty miles, and forty in breadth. This county lies in the diocese of Salis bury ; contains twenty-four market towns, one hundred and seven vicarages, three hun dred and four parishes, nine hundred and fifty villages, and sends thirty-four mem bers to parliament. — It is divided into twen ty-nine hundreds, which are supposed to LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 11 contain above one hundred and seventy thousand inhabitants. The land in this county is of various quality, but in general elevated and dry. The northern part, formerly overgrown with forests, at present only sprinkled with wood, is hilly, affording excellent pasture for cattle. The height of this tract is proved, by the various rivers which have their source in it ; the heads of the Thames, in Gloucester shire, are very near the border of this county, and several of its tributary rills rise in the north of Wiltshire. The Lower Avon, which flows to Bristol, springs out of this district, and winds through the north-west side of the county. Near the middle, among some chalky hills, rises the Kennet, which, taking its course through Berkshire, falls into the Thames below Reading. A little south ward, is the spring of the Upper Avon, which runs to Salisbury, then crosses a part 12 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of Hampshire, and discharges itself into the English Channel. Thus, from the northern and middle parts of Wiltshire, streams are distributed to three different sides of the kingdom. The chalk hills occupy, by their various ridges, a considerable part of the middle of this county; forming wide downs near Marl borough. — Below the middle, begins that extensive tract of open downs and heath, great part of which bears the name of Salis bury Plain ; the most remarkable spot of the kind in England. To the south of this vast plain, is a rich, well cultivated country, watered by the streams of the Willy, the Nadder, the Avon, and the Bourn, which unite in the neigh bourhood of Salisbury. The chief commodities of Wiltshire, are sheep, wool, wood, stone, and cheese, known by the name of North Wiltshire cheese; noted for its excellence. The manufac tures chiefly consist of superfine broad- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 13 cloth, serges, and other thin cloths ; with carpets, which are held in high estima tion. LITTLECOT PARK. A little beyond the sixty-sixth mile stone, a road branches off to the right. After passing through a gateway, we ascend a noble avenue, near two miles in length, di viding an extensive wood, chiefly consisting of oak. Beyond this, we descend a spacious gra vel-walk to Littlecot Park, the seat of Mrs. Popham, situated in a pleasant valley on the banks of the Kennet, about three miles from the Bath road. This park is about four miles in circum ference, elegantly adorned by groups of stately beech, and other kinds of trees. — A high hill, crowned with wood, rises boldly on the west, adding dignity to the scene, while it affords shelter to numerous herds 14 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of fine deer, esteemed in this country to be of superior quality. The house is large, and, like most other ancient buildings, stands in a bottom, on the south bank of the river, which washes the lower side of the park. On the north, the country is more open and cultivated, but badly furnished with wood, when com pared with the opposite side of the vale. Littlecot Park was noted for a pavement found there, in the year 1730, but destroyed in 1733; it is thus described by Professor Ward. " This pavement was forty-one feet by " thirty-three feet, and seemed to have " formed the floor of a temple. It con- " sisted of two parts, the templum and sa- t( crarium, answering to the nave and chan- " eel of our churches. The outer part, " which was nearly square, had at bottom " a border, on the centre of which was a " large two-handled cup, supported by two " sea monsters with fishes tails, and behind LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 15 " them two dolphins. At the other end " was also a border, with a similar cup, " supported by two tigers. " The floor of the sacrarium was a square " inclosing a circle, and having semicircles, " of various rich patterns, at three of its " sides. In the centre, was Apollo playing " on his harp ; and in four surrounding " compartments, four female figures, re- " presenting the four seasons, mounted on " four beasts. The first, holding a flower " in her hand, and seated on a deer, might " represent Spring ; the second, on a pan- *' ther, and holding a swan, Summer ; the " third, resting on a branch, perhaps of a " vine, rode on a bull, for Autumn ; and the " fourth, on a goat, held nothing in her " hand, and represented Winter. The two " first figures were naked to the waist ; the " two last cloathed. " This extraordinary pavement, the " largest ever found in England, was dis- " covered by Mr. William George, steward " to Edward Popham, Esq. two feet under 16 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM " ground. By him an exact drawing was " made from it, in its proper colours, and " afterwards engraved by Vertue, at the " expence of the Society of Antiquaries, " and Mr. Ward's account of it annexed." RAMESBURY, AND RAMESBURY MANOR. From hence, following the course of the Kennet in a western direction, about three miles, we approach the village of Rames bury; scattered along a declivitj'-, on the north bank of the river. Ramesbury has now little to recommend it beside the pleasantness of its situation. Formerly, it was noted for the see of the bishops whose diocese was this county ; but, upon the union of this see with Shire- burn, by Herman, the eighth bishop, and its removal to Salisbury, it carried off the consequence of this place, because at Rames bury was neither a chapter of the clergy, nor maintenance for them. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 17 About a mile further is Ramesbury Ma nor, the seat of Lady Jones, late of Sir William Jones. This is a handsome park, adorned by clumps of stately trees, with other wood, judiciously distributed. The Kennet, which washes the southern quarter of it, is formed into a piece of wa ter, exceedingly clear, and well supplied ; the eastern extremity of it is terminated by a bridge of five arches, over which the high road passes; and the upper end is lost among plantations and groups of trees. On the north, the grounds are high, and crowned with wood, extending in easy slop ing lawns to the river. The house is a handsome building, with extensive offices, situate on the north border of the lake, partly screened from the sight by plan tations : the whole forming a delightful re sidence. Both sides of the vale, from Littlecot Park to Ramesbury, are fertile, and well supplied with wood ; as is the district we C 18 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM pass through, in returning from hence, to the great road. FROXFIELD. Proceeding on our journey, we arrive at Froxfield, a long scattered village, on the Bath road, about two miles distant from Hungerford ; remarkable for a noble alms house, founded and endowed by Sarah Dutchess of Somerset ; as appears from the following inscription, wrritten on a marble tablet, over the gateway of the building. INSCRIPTION. Somerset Almshouse for twenty poor widows, founded and endowed by the right noble Sarah, late Dutchess of Somerset, de ceased. Built and settled, according to the will of the said Dutchess, by Sir William Gregory, Knight, one of the Justices of their Ma jesty's Court of King's Bench Compter, A.D, 1694, enlarged, for twenty more, in 1773, completing the will. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 19 This edifice is of a quadrangular form, having a small chapel in the centre of the court: it contains separate, neat apart ments, for all the pensioners. The yearly stipend to each was originally eight pounds, with clothing, an allowance for fire, and some advantage from the garden. By good management, that sum is now nearly dou bled ; which enables them to live in a very comfortable manner, and reflects infinite honour on those gentlemen to whose care the direction of this benevolent institution has been intrusted. — An example highly worthy of imitation. A salary is allowed to a clergyman, who reads prayers every Wednesday and Fri day, and preaches a sermon on the Sab bath. Pursuing our journey from hence, high grounds, well cultivated, and sprinkled with wood, occupy both sides of the road for se veral miles. 20 SURVEY OF THE GREAT BOAD FROM TOTTENHAM PARK, AND SE- VERNAKE FOREST. On the left, a little beyond the sixty- ninth mile stone, a noble avenue of oak diversified by clumps of stately beech, form ing a magnificent approach, leads to Tot tenham Park, a seat of the Earl of Aylesbury. This estate was formerly the property of the Seymour family, from whom it came to Lord Bruce, by the marriage of Elizabeth Seymour, grand-daughter of William Duke of Somerset, with the Earl of Ailsbury, his grand uncle. The beautiful genealogical table of this family, from the Conquest to the end of the last century, adorned with portraits and arms, is in the possession of the pre sent proprietor; together with the horn mentioned by Camden, which hangs up in the library at Tottenham, and may be con sidered rather as a badge of office, than as an instrument of tenure. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 21 Tottenham was anciently a manor of the Spencers ; it was forfeited to the crown, and afterwards given by Edward III. to his son Edmund de Langley, whose son and grand son held it. Adjoining to Tottenham is Severnake Forest, also the property of Lord Ailsbury ; the only forest in this country in the posses sion of a subject, and can be equalled but by few of the royal domains, under that name. This forest, with Tottenham Park, make a circuit of at least twelve miles. It is well supplied and beautifully decorated with wood, formed into noble avenues, eight of which meet in a spacious opening near the centre ; a proper situation for an orna mental building. It is abundantly stocked with fine deer, the numerous herds of which are to be seen without intermission, in every quarter of these extensive grounds, stamping this spot with a characteristic dignity not to be met with in a less magnificent territory. The neighbouring farmers have a right 22 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of pasturage on this forest ; whose various flocks, with their solitary shepherds, are frequently presented to view, wandering along its margins; completing the rural scene. Tottenham House is a regular, handsome structure, said to have been built under the direction of the late Earl of Burlington ; on the scite of one burnt by the parliament forces, during the civil wars. Opposite to the north front, about two miles distant, stands a magnificent column ; on one side of the pedestal of which, is the following inscription: This column was erected by Thomas Bruce, Earl of Ailesbury, as a testimony of gratitude to his ever-honoured uncle,Charles Earl of Ailsbury and Elgin, who left to him these estates, and procured for him the Ba rony of Tottenham : — And of loyalty to his most gracious Sovereign, George III. who, unsolicited, conferred on him the honour of Earldom. — But above all to Piety, to God, first, highest, best ; whose blessings conse- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 23 crate every gift, and fixeth its true value. 1781. On the opposite side of the pedestal is written : In commemoration of a signal instance, of Heaven's protecting providence over these kingdoms, in the year 1789, by re storing to perfect health, from a long and afflicting disorder, our excellent and be loved Sovereign, George III. This tablet was inscribed by Thomas Bruce, Earl of Ailsbury. The high road extends along the north ern verge of this forest for several miles ; a most delightful ride. After ascending a hill, and passing a handsome lodge at the extre mity of it, we approach Marlborough, which suddenly presents itself to view, in descend ing a hollow way, cut through a chalk precipice. 24 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM SECT. III. MARLBOROUGH. About sixty-five miles from the ca pital, stands this ancient town, extending along a declivity on the northern bank of the Kennet, surrounded by ridges of chalk hills ; the spot where antiquaries place the Cunetio of Antoninus. — Cunetio was the ori ginal name of the Kennet; called by the Saxons Ceyntan. The history, as well as the name, of this Cunetio, with every memorial of its anti quity, is lost, from the arrival of the Sax ons, to the Normans. In the next century, John, surnamed Lackland, afterwards King of England, had a castle here, which, on his revolt from his brother Richard, was taken '• 'y.^2, ¦ '- ¦ ¦_, - -C. «LiJ» '¦^^¦1^ W.*^-"/' >%- -^^^^^^P^ ' ' ' / ^&v-;i *|ffSj» "¦• '.$¦• !- '*''.'¦ -^ "v -v;rfeor"- .v^jijiaSiM^ - >"'"¦ ..." '.j!rr:.J,"!'-'i ." «r ijSjfe,*':'.''' .'%^V .**"¦ f '¦'•• * t ». .;. ,^1 ^ cS'^ j^KS"'1 i^^^_, v-^j3IHttiH»i £& rffiflm fiynUl flD Hw»^ ¦ ¦* N" '»t $? JSfr HHhvj . *.Xm">im I \ -,x N vy &J .^^H viw HHfrnvv j-S iMflVf inlft-'"" #%» ^ J' iH8Kv\% " .ifflfi B" -agp " rf . "Iilri5 - Sv 1?* \ -I- i^"^P™Sw: ^>\ §'3 Hpi L^MR 'fi|tj|~ . \ ffl^rfc * ' \J ^ ^V ^ 156 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM " deed an excellent person ; whose activity, " interest, and reputation, were the founda- " tion of what had been done in Cornwall ; " and his temper and affection so pacific, " that no accident which happened could " make any impression in him ; and his " example kept others from taking any " thing ill, or at least seeming to do so : in " a word, a brighter courage, and gentler " disposition, were never married together, " to make the most innocent and cheerful " conversation." — See Clarendon's Hist, of the Rebellion. Proceeding from Bath, there are two roads which lead to the city of Bristol, termed the Upper and Lower. The former of these runs from the western part of the town, along the northern side of the Avon, and through a part of Gloucestershire ; and the latter (the most frequented), from St. Lau rence's Bridge, winds along the southern bank of that river : and a communication between these roads is formed by a hand some stone bridge, of one arch, over the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 157 same river, about two miles and a half be low the town. The river Avon has been made navigable from Bath to Bristol : which has been at tended with the greatest advantage to both cities ; and the intercourse between them is very considerable. The principal vale of Bath, called by the Britons Nant Baden, appears by the writ ings of the learned author of the Britannia, to have extended to such a considerable length, as to comprehend Caer Oder, now the city of Bristol ; so that the Britons de scribing that city to be in Nant Baden, has led some authors to conjecture, that the an tiquity of Bath is greater than that of Bristol, or that the former was a more con siderable town than the latter in ancient times. Proceeding by the lower road, we pass through the village of Twiverton, and a little beyond the third mile stone, arrive at Newton, a small town, scattered along the side of a hill, chiefly on the left side of the 158 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM road; near to which, on the south, lies Newton Park, the seat of J. Gore Langton, Esq. at which such improvements are now making, as will render it a pleasant and de sirable residence. Beyond the river, on the opposite side of the vale, stands a handsome mansion, nobly situated on a high ridge crowned with wood, with the Avon gliding at its foot. This was the seat of the late Sir Caesar Hawkins ; now belonging to his family. To describe the several beauties of the vale of Bath would be tedious ; I shall there fore only say, that the part of it we have already noticed, is possessed of hill and dale, wood and water, with every other requisite for constituting rural English landscape, by nature elegantly arranged ; as is the more western part, which lies between this spot and the city of Bristol. Advancing from Newton, and leaving the small village of Corston on the left, we next pass through Saltford ; upon the right of which, on the side of the Avon, stand LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 159 several paper, and brass mills. From hence, the road ascends a hill, leaving a deep ravine on the right hand, and woody hills on the south. We then proceed through a well cultivated inclosed country towards Keyns- ham ; before we arrive at which, a handsome house, the residence of Edward Lyne, Esq. appears on the north. Keynsham is a small market town, stand ing upon two hills, on the northern bank of the Avon ; and its western side is washed by the lesser stream of the river Chew, over which is a small bridge ; and a commu nication between the counties of Somerset and Gloucester is formed by a larger bridge, over the former of these rivers, below the town. Here the Chew is lost in the Avon. Keynsham church is a stately Gothic structure, with a square tower, and the houses in general are tolerably built. — The banks of the Avon, on the north, below the town, are formed of rich meadows, bounded by high grounds, tufted with wood ; which, 160 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM being arranged in an amphitheatrical form, have a beautiful appearance. Beyond the town, we ascend a hill, from which appears Hannam, the residence of Mr. Creswick, with several other handsome houses in Gloucestershire ; and some vil lages are seen scattered on both sides of the river. A few miles from Keynsham, at Stanton Drew, on the river Chew, are the remains of a Druidical temple, vulgarly called the Wedding, from a tradition that a bride and her attendants were changed into those stones ; and they have the same tradition of the danger of drawing or numbering of them, as they have of Stonehenge. This temple consisted of three circles of stones ; and, in Mr. Wood's opinion, formed a per fect model of the Pythagorean system of the planetary world, which he has taken much pains to prove, as will appear from a very particular description, and copper plate prints, representing the exact rela- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 161 tive situation of these circles to each other, to be seen in his History of Bath. From hence, we descend into an inclosed woodland, and cultivated district, beyond which the road again rises ; and from the summit of the high ground, about three miles from Bristol, we command extensive prospects ; and on the east, the town of Keynsham appears to advantage. Beyond this, the road sinks ; when, in passing the village of Brislington, and on our approach to Bristol, a great number of handsome houses and villas lie scattered on both sides of the road ; a circumstance al ways to be met with in the environs of great cities. Beyond this village, we descend an avenue formed by stately trees, leaving a beautiful sloping valley, composed of grass inclosures, decorated with wood on the left, with a more cultivated country on the right ; and again, passing several handsome villas, and winding round the declivity of a hill, the towering buildings of the city of Bristol VOL. ii. M 162 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM appear in full view, backed with lofty hills, swelling downs, and a variety of more dis tant country. Beyond this the road de scends, and leads to that extensive and opu lent city. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 163 SECT. X. CITY OF BRISTOL. Minutely to describe a city of, the magnitude and importance of Bristol, with its public buildings, commerce, and manu factures, would be going far beyond the intention and limits of this publication ; it is therefore hoped that a concise account of it will be deemed sufficiently satisfactory, more especially as a history of that city (an ingenious and elaborate work) has been published by Mr. Barret, so lately as the year 1789. The city of Bristol is one hundred and twenty miles distant from London. It stands partly in Somersetshire, and partly in Gloucestershire; and is divided by the 164 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM river Avon, which forms the boundaries be tween these counties. There are various opinions respecting the antiquity of this city. Our celebrated historian Camden, though he acknowledged the British name Caer Brito, says, it arose in the declension of the Saxon government, and that it was not any where taken notice of before the year 1063, when Harold (as Florence of Worcester has it) set sail from Bristol to invade Wales: but Mr. Barret, in his History of Bristol, points out, that Gildas, about the year 580, gave a very particular account of twenty-eight cities that adorned this nation ; and Nannius, about the year 620, gives us the catalogue of them, mentioning Caer Brito as one of the twenty-eight famous in ancient times. Whence Mr. Barret concludes, that Bristol was a city of eminence at a much earlier period than our historians in general ad mit of. Sc early as the year 1347, Bristol had consequence enough to obtain a charter LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 165 from Edward III. for constituting it a county within itself; as will appear from the words of that great prince, running thus: " That in consideration of the good ser- " vices, by their shipping and otherwise, " done to us in times past, we have granted " it to be, and be for ever called the county " of Bristol." And in the 34th of Henry VIII. Bristol was made a bishop's see, and constituted a city by the royal letters pa tent, though it had enjoyed the title of a city before ; it was now legally, and by au thority so denominated. Bristol also confers the title of Earl; created the 20th of James I. in John Lord Digby, of Sherborn; extinct in 1692, on the death of John Digby, his grandson ; and revived again in John Hervey, ancestor to the present Earl of Bristol, Baron of Ick- worth, in the year 1714. It is remarkable, that the present Earl, being a younger son, was bred up for the church, as is usual in noble families ; and succeeding to the title, 166 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM by the demise of his eldjr brother, is actually Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry, a peer of England and Ireland, and bears arms ac* cordingly. In ancient times, Bristol was a place of great strength, having been first fortified by an embattled wall, and afterwards by a strong castle, concerning the antiquity of which Antiquaries differ in opinion. — Le land, out of a book of the antiquities of the Monastery of Tewkesbury, which he met with in Latin, quotes, " That Robert " Consul of Gloucester built the castle of " Bristolle;" and in another place, " He " builded the castelle of Bristowe, or the " most part of it. Every man sayith that " he builded the great square stone dun- " geon, and that the stones thereof came " out of Caen in Normandie." But Mr. Barret is of opinion, that we must look back to earlier times for the ori gin of this castle: that Robert of Gloucester was only a repairer of it, and rebuilder of some part of it : and that one of the Saxon LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 167 kings, or Earls of Gloucester, most probably Edward senr. was the builder of it; and quotes Turgot thus, p. 32. " In theyear 91 5, " Edward senr. havyng made alteratyon of " the w7alles of Bryghtstowe, newly ybuyl- " den the castle, beeyng the goodelyeste of " syve ybuylden on Abone bankes, and it " was a grete checke to the Danes." Mr. Barret's account of Bristol castle is as follows : " This castle was pleasantly situated on " a rising ground, at the east part of the " town, which was a great advantage to it '" as a fortress. It was bounded on the " north by the river Froom, on the south " by the river Avon, moating it with water " on that side ; on the west part, it was de- " fended by a deep trench or ditch, from " Newgate across the Avon, near St. Peter's " church, over the middle of which was a " draw-bridge leading from the castle-gate " to the town, where was what I find " called the Barbacana Castri, near the east " part of St. Peter's church. It was for- 168 SURVEY OF THE GREAT EOAD FROM " tified within with very strong walls em- " battled at the top, and had a sally-port, " still so called, leading into the present " Queen Street, built on an arch which " the river Froom flows through. Its out- " works were very large, extending to Law- " ford's Gate, which still retains its ancient " Saxon name, Hlaford's Gate, ox the Lord's " Gate, so called from the lords or governors " of the castle." At the beginning of the rebellion against King Charles I. the fortifications and castle of Bristol were repaired, and some additional works were erected by the corporation, to be held as a garrison for the king, but in a short time after, they were prevailed upon to deliver it up to the parliament forces, by whom great depredations were committed in the city. — Several chapels and other re ligious houses having been demolished ; on the 17th of July, 1643, the governor gave orders to destroy the churches of St. Peter and St. Philip ; but on the 22dof that month this was happily prevented by Prince Ru- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 169 pert appearing before the city with twenty thousand men, which he immediately at tacked on every quarter, and it capitulated to him on the 27th of the same month. — Prince Rupert being now in possession of the city and castle of Bristol, his Majesty, Prince Charles, and the Duke of York, came thither on the 2d of August following, where they remained for some time. The rebels afterwards having gained some advantages in the west, determined to lay siege to Bristol, which they immediately in vested, and it was carried by storm, the 10th of September, by the army under the command of General Fairfax and Lieute- nan t-Gener al C r om w ell . After this, the citizens of Bristol were treated with the utmost cruelty ; the clergy had their benefices sequestered, the churches were pillaged and ransacked, and the mo numents wantonly defaced by the rebel forces ; and soon after Cromwell was pro claimed Protector, the castle of Bristol was by his order demolished. 170 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM There are hardly any vestiges of this once famous castle now remaining ; only on the south side are to be seen parts of the wall, with some Gothic windows; and on the east side are two Saxon arches, and a room with an arched roof, having the ap pearance of a chapel, now converted into a house and shop for a cooper. The city of Bristol, in its present state, may be reckoned the second in the British dominions for wealth and extent. As a com mercial city, it possesses advantages superior to most others, its situation being equally convenient for foreign as inland trade. By the river Avon stately ships of great burden are from hence floated to the sea, where, unbending their sails, they proceed to every quarter of the globe, richly laden with the various commodities and manu factures of Britain ; and almost every re turning tide wafts back into this port vessels, both foreign and British, freighted with commodities the produce of different parts of the world. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 171 From the Severn sea, into which the Avon falls, channels of communication are formed with South Wales and the northern part of England, by means of the rivers Severn and Weye. — In return for the mer chandise of Bristol, great quantities of ex cellent provisions of all kinds, and many other articles, the produce of those coun tries, are constantly brought to that city. By an annual perambulation, made for the better ascertaining and determining the boundaries and limits of the town, the cir cumference of Bristol is now found to ex ceed seven miles. — The centre of the city still occupies the hilly ground on which the whole of the old town, or Ville of Brighstow stood, and contains many very old houses of singular construction. The plain around it was first built on, and the district of St. James has extended itself in handsome streets and elegant buildings, to the very sum mit of King Down: within its limits are three handsome modern squares; viz. St. 172 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM James's Square, King's Square, and Bruns wick Square; and the increase of its inha bitants has been such, that in 1787 an act of parliament was obtained for dividing this extensive parish, and erecting a new church, to be called St. Paul's, now nearly com pleted ; and an elegant new square, forming a line of buildings two hundred and eighty feet every way, with other new works, are carrying on. By degrees, the buildings of Bristol have ascended the steep sides of the hill of St. Michael, and its summit is adorned with elegant houses. — On the western side, for merly the Marsh of Bristol, or Avon Marsh, are several handsome streets, and a spacious square (extending above one hundred and seventy yards on each side), called Queen's Square, completed about the year 1726.— In the centre of this square, on a high pe destal, inclosed with iron pallisadoes, stands an equestrian statue, in brass, of King Wil liam III. executed by the late ingenious LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 173 Mr. Rysbrack; an exquisite performance, were the horse less incumbered with trap pings. Bristol is adorned by nineteen churches, several of which are stately and magnificent structures. The cathedral is conspicuously situated upon a hill on the Gloucestershire side of the Avon. This was a noble edi fice ; but, from its present mutilated state, and having undergone many alterations at different periods, it remains uncertain whe ther it was ever completed, or whether part of it has been taken away. The church of St. Mary Redclift best claims the attention of the curious, and is esteemed one of the most beautiful struc tures of the kind in the kingdom. Though of great dimensions, it appears light and airy ; sufficiently ornamented, but not crowded with small parts, or mean deco rations. Its roof, a solid arch of free-stone, is lofty and grand, — an excellent piece of workmanship ; and over it is a wooden roof, which supports the leaden covering. — A 174 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM very particular description of this church, with that of the several other churches and public buildings of Bristol, will be found in Barret's History of that city, with copper plate prints of many of them annexed. Near the centre of the city is the Ex change ; where merchants meet to transact business, as in the Royal Exchange of London. It is a stately building, of Gre cian architecture, well adapted for the pur pose. The Quays of Bristol are extensive and convenient; and by means of the rivers Avon and Froom, on whose banks they stand, ships of various burdens are floated into the centre of the city, where they load and discharge their cargoes with the greatest ease and expedition. Over the river Avon is a handsome stone bridge of three arches, which unites the Gloucestershire and Somersetshire parts of the town ; and over the Froom is a draw bridge, forming a communication between those parts of the town which stand on the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 175 different sides of that river. — Here are also wet and dry docks, for the building, re pairing, and refitting of ships ; rope works, sail manufactories, foundries, with every other requisite for an extensive and flou rishing commercial sea-port, encouraged and supported by the merchants of this opulent city ; who, for respectability, libe rality, and enterprize, are not to be sur passed by any other set of men. Bristol is governed by a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, two sheriffs, and forty- two common-council: it sends two mem bers to parliament. — The city is divided into twelve wards, by the citizens of which, the aldermen are chosen ; the recorder be ing always the senior, who is to be well skilled in the laws of the land, and must have been a barrister for the space of five years, at least. They are to be sworn be fore the mayor, and are appointed con servators and justices of the peace, with the same authority and powers as those of London ; and any three or more of them, 176 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of whom the mayor and recorder are to be two, may hold a court of general gaol de livery, &c. and inquire into the damages of the crown. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 177 SECT. XI. GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 1 his county is bounded on the south by Wiltshire, and part of Somersetshire, on the north by Worcestershire, on the east by Warwickshire and Oxfordshire, on the west by the counties of Monmouth and Here ford ; and is divided into two unequal parts by the Severn, which enters Gloucestershire, a little below Tewkesbury. — In length it stretches from north-east to south-west the extent of more than sixty miles ; but does not exceed twenty-six in breadth. The lower part of its western boundary is formed by the Wye, which reaching this county a little below Ross, in Herefordr shire, separates it, in the rest of its progress, vol. ii. N 178 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM from the county of Monmouth ; and a va riety of picturesque and romantic scenery is displayed along its banks. Its southern extremity is divided from Somersetshire by the lower Avon, which runs between romantic banks, and forces its passage to the sea, through the stupendous rocks of St. Vincent, below Bristol. The tides from St. George's Channel, meeting with the more powerful tides of the At lantic, enter the mouth of the Severn with a rapid influx, rolling on with a lofty head; which may be seen at a considerable dis tance, and from our earliest historians re ceived the name of the Hygra. The rivers Wye and Severn abound with excellent salmon, by which the cities of Bath and Bristol, with many other parts of the coun try, are plentifully supplied. Gloucestershire is by nature divided into three longitudinal districts, differing mate rially from each other. The eastern dis trict, called the Coteswold, is by much the widest, consisting of a large tract of high LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 179 ground ; though not fertile, in many parts affording a fine short grass, excellent for sheep. " High Coteswold also 'mong the shepherd swains " Is oft remember'd, though the greedy plough " Preys on its carpet. " fleece. The middle district comprehends the spacious and extensive vale bordering on the Severn, whose luxuriant and fertile pastures furnish the kingdom with that cheese for which the county of Gloucester is so justly famous. — The western, which is by much the shortest district, was chiefly occupied by the forest of Deane, once reck oned the chief support of the English navy5 and which it is said the Spanish Armada was expressly commissioned to destroy. It is now thinned by frequency of felling, and narrowed by increase of cultivation, though a few solitary deer still run wild in its re cesses. The staple commodities of this county are its woollen cloth and its cheese : be sides which, the forests of Deane and Kings- 180 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM wood abound in mines of iron and coal ; the coal is principally expended in the internal consumption of this and the neighbouring counties, and the iron is hammered out in numerous forges, from whence many capital iron manufactories are supplied with that useful material. — The vale and forest of Deane also abound in orchards, which pro duce great plenty of cyder ; and the Styre, a kind in great esteem, is almost peculiar to the western banks of the Severn. CLIFTON. This village stands in Gloucestershire, about a mile west of the city of Bristol, delightfully situated upon the southern de clivity of a high hill extending to the river Avon. From the pleasantness of its situa tion, and the salubrity of the air, many persons of fortune have been induced to fix their general residence in it. Of late years, Clifton has been much enlarged ; it has gradually crept up to, and extended it- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 181 self beyond the summit of the high ground at the foot of which it originally stood, now forming a village of considerable ex tent. — The top and sides of these grounds being adorned by elegant houses, built with free-stone, make a handsome appearance, though at present too unconnected and scat tered to form a perfect whole. On the downs beyond Clifton, a large plot of ground has been laid out for build ing, and, as I am informed, several streets are to be erected there, in an elegant style. In the lower town is a parade, a square, and other handsome buildings, which, to gether with many elegant houses on the higher ground, are genteely fitted up for the accommodation of strangers resorting hither, either for pleasure or for health. There are two public assembly-rooms at Clifton, styled the Upper and Lower, where assemblies and balls are held, and public breakfasts, &c. are given, in imitation of those of Bath, but on a smaller scale. At the western extremity of Clifton, near 182 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM the stupendous rock of St. Vincent, rises the celebrated hot mineral spring, deno minated the Bristol Hotwell. — The heat of the water, when immediately taken from the spring, raises Fahrenheit's thermometer to seventy -six degrees; which having been analyzed by the ingenious Dr. Higgins, of London, a Winchester gallon is found to contain, dwts. grs. Of calcareous earth, combined with vitriolic acid, in the form of se- lenite - Of calcareous earth, combined with acidulous gas Of marine salt of magnesia Of sea salt - It also contains eight ounce measures of acidulous gas, beyond the quantity retained by the calcareous earth in the heat of boil ing water, and two ounce measures of air, equal, if not superior to atmospheric air in purity. 0 H 1 1~4 0 H 0 <% 2 9 LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 183 It has no animal, vegetable, or sulphu reous particles; so that being void of the seeds of corruption, it receives no taint through length of time, or alteration of climate. The water of the Hotwell is perfectly pellucid, and abounding with air-bubbles, which are continually rising from the bot tom to the surface, as if in a state of fer mentation. — This water is found extremely efficacious in consumptions, weakness of the lungs, and all cases attended with hectic fever and heat, and exceeds all other reme dies in the cure of the diabetes, as well as in many other disorders, as will appear from the several treatises written by Dr. Ran dolph, Dr. Keir, and other authors, on the virtues of the Bristol water. The former of these gentlemen attributes its first repu tation, to its efficacy in the stone and gravel. Close to the Hotwell House rises the stupendous rock of St. Vincent, overhang ing the Avon in tremendous cliffs of pro digious height ; and on the opposite side of 184 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM the river, the grounds are equally bold, and covered with wood from their summits to the water's edge, forming a beautiful con trast to the rugged and barren rock. Formerly, in the face of this rock was a hermitage, and a chapel dedicated to St. Vincent, whence it took its name. — From the works of William of Worcester it ap pears, that the Bristol hot spring was in re pute when he wrote; and, after describing the spring, the chapel, and hermitage, he says, the chapel of the hermitage was twenty fathoms from the firm ground, as measured by himself, in the year 1480, or one hundred and twenty-four steps, or there about, and situated about the middle of the rock, as you ascend to the high ground. The rock of St. Vincent is composed of a hard marble, or lime-stone, of a peculiar kind ; in colour, from a dusky red to a light grey, and when polished is beautifully va riegated. The various forms the several cliffs of this tremendous rock assume, in heavy rug- LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 185 ged masses, as if pendant from the clouds, the beautiful verdure of the woods overhang ing the opposite shore, with the Avon flow ing between ; altogether display a variety of sublime romantic scenery, rarely to be met with. — At Clifton, the width of the Avon is but inconsiderable, when com pared with most other navigable rivers; and its steep banks being constantly washed by the tide, the influx and reflux of which is exceedingly rapid, renders its water always muddy, and at low tide the river has an unpleasant and dirty appearance ; but not withstanding this unfavourable circum stance, every returning tide in some degree removes those unpleasant appearances, and brings to our view numbers of stately vessels proudly gliding along its surface, with a va riety of smaller craft, which, while they ani mate and enliven the picture, conspire to render it as uncommon as it is charming ; and whether we behold these romantic scenes from the summit of the stupendous surrounding rocks, or view them from the 186 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM banks of the river, they are equally awful in their appearance, and striking in their effects. The rides around Bristol and the Hot- well are rendered most delightful by the romantic scenery, and the agreeable variety of elegant seats and villas every where in terspersed. From the summits of the sur rounding hills, the views are various and extensive: on the west, we command a prospect of the river Avon and the Severn sea, bounded in the horizon by the lofty mountains of Wales ; we look down upon the city of Bristol on the east ; on the north, over Gloucestershire; and on the south, the eye ranges over the fertile county of Somerset. In this neighbourhood are many vestiges of Roman antiquity, which, singular as it may appear, have been passed unnoticed by Camden, Gale, and other writers. — Ostorius, about the year 50, extended his victorious arms upon the banks of the ri vers Severn and Avon, commanding the LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 187 navigation of them by a chain of forts ; the first and most important of which seems to have been the camp on Clifton Down, and two others directly fronting it, called Bower Walls, and Stokeleigh Camp, at Rownham Hill, on the Somersetshire side of the Avon. — The tremendous height of the rocks on the summit of which these camps were formed, the strong and high walls, treble ditches and fences with which they were de fended, together with the inaccessible pre cipices on the sides next the river, rendered them as impregnable as they were im portant. The agger a and double ditches of these two last-mentioned camps are still to be seen, though now overgrown with wood. — From them a praetentura, or fence, against any attack upon the lines is to be traced, the ranges of stones appearing still for some miles, joining in one at the top of the comb which divides the camps, proceeding in a nearly straight line towards Fayland . At every opening towards the vales, and at every eminence where a distant prospect 188 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD FROM of the country around, and of the river, afforded an opportunity of descrying an approaching enemy, circular watch-towers were erected ; and there the ruins of walls, crossing the fence, still appear. This fence may be traced all the way westward, by the broad high stony bank, for many miles, skirting the hill fronting the south, and ex tending towards Clevedon and Walton, where are now to be seen traces of camps near the Severn. A little down the river seems to have been placed the Castra Hyberna, being the Roman winter station ; abundance of coin having been dug up there, in making Sea- mill Dock, in the year 1712. The work men also discovered there a fine arched gateway under ground, and remains of old foundations have been traced up the ad joining hilly ground next the river side; where great quantities of coins of Ves pasian, Constantine, Constance, Galienus, Nero, &c. have also been found. Besides these camps, there are to be found LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL. 189 many other strong military works in the vi cinity of Bristol, viz. at Cadbury, on Blaze- hill, near Henbury, at Naish, Aldmonds- bury, Oldbury, Elberton, and Old Abbey, on the Gloucestershire side ; and lower down, in Somersetshire, at Dobery, at Worle-hill, East Brent ; and towards the lower part of the Avon, particularly at St. George's and Portbury, where, on a rising ground, are evident traces of fortifications. These camps at Blaze-hill and Aldmonds- bury look directly towards the greater works of Clifton and Rownham Hills, and form one great chain, with the Severn in its front. — Blaze-hill commands a full prospect of the rivers Avon and Severn, also, a distant view of all the Roman stations near at hand, and was by nature the most defencible post, next to that of Clifton and Rownham Hills, in this part of the country, that Ostorius and the Romans were possessed of. — In Bar rett's History of Bristol, from which the substance of this account is chiefly col lected, will be found a more circumstantial 190 SURVEY OF THE GREAT ROAD, &C detail of these antiquities, with many in genious conjectures respecting the different stations of the Romans, and the manner of forming the connection with their posts beyond the Severn, and other more distant parts. END OF THE SECOND PART. ERRATA. Vol. I. page 72, line 8, for Edward the Black Prince, read Edward IV. Vol. II. page 6, line 16, for first built, read rebuilt. page 164, line 1, for boundaries, read boundary. 3 9002 , •¦